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Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la derniire image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols '—^ signifie "A SUiVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tablraux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul cliche, 11 est filmA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ** • « Captain Cooks VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD WITH AN INTRODUCTORY LIFE BY M. H. SYNGE 'I' H ; ' \ N X K [.:-') ^ ANT) SONS 1 r Captain Cooks VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD WITH AN INTRODUCTORY LIFE BY M. B. SYNGE •l.l Mi in vWOR^ 1 g ^^^^^ ^^jjg THOMAS NELSON AND SONS London, lidiHl'urs;h, and Neiu York 1897 r PREFACE, The following Three Voyages of Captain Cook are taken direct from the folio volumes of his own journals, and but slightly abridged. By kind permission of Messrs. Elliot Stock, we have made use of Captain Cook's Journal during his first voyage round the world, made in H.M. barque Endeavour, 1768-71 — a literal transcription of the original MSS., edited by Captain W. J. L. Wharton, R.K, F.R.S., Hydrographer of the Admiralty, pub- lished in 1893. This has greatly added to the value of the present edition, and we would acknowledge with thanks the generosity of Messrs. Elliot Stock. CONTENTS. LIFK OP CAPTAIN COOK 1 ^irdt Vo^adC. CHAPTER I. PASSAGK FROM PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA, AND FROM MADEIRA TO BIO DE JANEIRO — THE PASSAGE FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE ENTRANCE OF THE STRAIT OF LE MAIRE... 11 CHAPTER II. EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OP PLANTS— PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT OF LK MAIRE — SEQUEL OP THE PASSAGK FROM CAPE HORN TO THE NEWLY-DISCOVEEED ISLANDS IN THE SOUTH SEAS HO CHAPTER III. ARRIVAL OP THE "ENDEAVOUR" AT OTAHEITE OR KINO GEORGE THE THIRD'S I8Li\ND 31 CHAPTER IV. OBSERVATION OF THE TRANSIT OF VENUS — TRANSACTIONS AND INCIDENTS AT OTAHEITE— CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE ISLAND — MR. BANKS's EXPEDITION —DISAPPEARANCE OF TWO MEN 43 CHAPTER V. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND— ITS PEOPLE, HABITS, AND CUSTOMS— VISITS TO HUAHEINE, ULIETEA (RAIATEA), OTAHA (TAHAA), BOLABOLA— DSFABTUBE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLANDS FOR NEW ZEALAND 50 CHAPTER VI. PASSAGE FROM SOCIETY ISLES TO NEW ZEALAND— INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN POVERTY BAY— DEPARTURE FROM POVERTY BAY.. 72 CHAPTER VII. THE RANGE FROM POVERTY BAT TO CAPE TURNAGAIN, AND BACK TO TOLAGO, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE PEOPLE AND THE COUNTRY 84 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. KROM MERCURY BAV TO THE BAY OP ISLANDS— EXPEDITION UP THE RIVEB THAMES— INTERVIEWS WITH THE NATIVES— RANGE FROM THE BAY OP ISLANDS ROUND NORTH CAPE TO QUEEN CHAKLOTTE's SOUND 98 CHAPTER IX. TRANSACTIONS IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND— PASSAGE THROUGH COOK's STRAIT AND BACK TO CAPE TURNAGA!N— PROM CAPE TURNAGAIN SOUTHWARD, ROUND CAPE SOUTH, AND BACK TO THE WESTERN ENTRANCE OP COOK'S STRAIT 109 CHAPTER X. A GENERAL ACCOUNT OF NEW ZEALAND— PASSAGE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO BOTANY BAY ON THE EAST COAST OF NEW HOLLAND (NEW SOUTH WALES)- AN ACCOUNT OF BOTANY BAY 119 CHAPTER XI. RANGE FROM BOTANY BAY TO TRINITY BAY, WITH A FURTHER ACCOUNT OP THE COUNTRY, ETC.- DANGEROUS SITUATION OP THE SHIP IN HER COURSE FROM TRINITY BAY TO ENDEAVOUR RIVER— APPEARANCE OF SCURVY 130 CHAPTER XII. TRANSACTIONS WHILE THE SHIP WAS REFITTING IN ENDEAVOUR RIVER 144 CHAPTER XIII. THE SHIP IN DANGER OFF THE BARRIER REEFS— PASSAGE FROM PROVIDENTIAL CHANNEL TO ENDEAVOUR STRAITS 157 CHAPTER XIV. DEPARTURE FROM NEW SOUTH WALES— DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY, PEOPLE, ETC.— PASSAGE PROM NEW SOUTH WALES TO NEW GUINEA— PASSAGE PROM NEW GUINEA TO THE ISLAND OP SAVU 105 CHAPTER XV. THE RUN PROM THE ISLAND OF SAVU TO BATAVIA— TRANSACTIONS AT BATAVIA WHILE THE SHIP WAS REFITTING 178 CHAPTER XVI. SOME ACCOUNT OP BATAVIA— PASSAGE FROM BATAVIA TO THE CAPE OP GOOD HOPE— prince's island — CAPE OF GOOD HOPE AND ST. HELENA— RETURN OF THE SHIP TO ENGLAND 186 ** Secont) Uosadc. CHAPTER XVII. PASSAGE FROM DEPTPOHD TO THE CAPE OP GOOD HOPE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED BY THE WAY AND TRANSACTIONS THERE 193 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XVIII. DEPABTURE FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE IN SEARCH OF A SOUTHERN CON- TINENT— SEPARATION OF THE TWO SHIPS — ARRIVAL OF THE " RESOLUTION " IN HUSKY BAY 198 CHAPTER XIX. TRANSACTIONS IN DUSKY BAY 203 CHAPTER XX, PASSAGE FROM DUSKY BAY TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND, WITH AN ACCOONT OP SOME WATER-SPOUTS, AND OF OUR JOINING THE "ADVENTURE" — CAPTAIN FURNEAUX'S NARRATIVE 216 CHAPTER XXI. TRANSACTIONS IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND, WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE INHABITANTS— ROUTE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO OT.^HEITE 223 CHAPTER XXII. THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIPS AT OTAHEITE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE CRITICAL SITUATION THEY WERE IN, AND OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE THEY LAY IN OAITI-PIHA BAY— AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL VISITS TO AND FROM OTOO, OF GOATS BEING LEFT ON THE ISLAND, AND MANY OTHER PARTICULARS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIPS LAY IN MATAVAI BAY..234 CHAPTER XXIII. AN ACCOUNT OF THE RECEPTION WE MET WITH AT HUAHEINE, WITH THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIPS LAY THERE, AND OF OMAI, ONE OF THE NATIVES, COMING AWAY IN THE " ADVENTURE "—ARRIVAL AT AND DEPARTURE OF THE SHIPS FROM ULIETEA, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP WHAT HAPPENED THERE, AND OF OEDIDEE, ONE OF THE NATIVES, COMING AWAY IN THE "RESOLUTION." 241 CHAPTER XXIV. PASSAGE FROM ULIETEA TO THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THR DISCOVERY OF HERVEY's ISLAND AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED AT MIDDLEBURO— THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIPS AT AMSTERDAM; A DESCRIP- TION OF A PLACE OF WORSHIP, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE THEY REMAINED AT THAT ISLAND — A DESCRIP- TION OF THE ISLANDS, THEIR PRODUCE, ETC 247 CHAPTER XXV. PASSAGE FROJI AMSTERDAM TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF AN INTERVIEW WITH THE INHABITANTS, AND THE FINAL SEPARATION OF THE TWO SHIPS— TRANSACTIONS IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE INHABITANTS BEING CANNIBALS, AND VARIOUS OTHER INCIDENTS— DEPARTUhK FROM THE BOUND, AND OUR ENDEAVOURS TO FIND THE "ADVENTURE," WITH SOME DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST. 258 zii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVI. BOUTE OF THE SHIP FROM NEW ZKAI^AND IN SEARCH OF A CONTINENT, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP VARIOUS OBSTRUCTIONS MET WITH FROM THE ICE, AND THE METHODS PURSUED TO EXPLORE THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC OCEAN— PASSAGE TO EASTER ISLAND AND TRANSACTIONS THERE— PASSAGE FROM EASTER ISLAND TO THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS- DEPARTURE FROM THE MARQUE- SAS 266 CHAPTER XXVII. PREPARATIONS TO LEAVE THE ISLAND— THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP AT THE ISLAND OF HUAHEINE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP SEVERAL INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE SHE LAY THERE— ARRIVAL AT ULIETEA 27C CHAPTER XXVIII. PASSAGE FROM UUETEA TO NEW ZEALAND— DISCOVERY OF HOWE ISLAND, PALMER- STON ISLAND, SAVAGE ISLAND — RECEPTION AT ANNAMOOKA— THE PASSAGE FROM THE FRIENDLY ISLES TO THE NEW HEBRIDES— DISCOVERY OF TURTLE ISLAND AND THE ISLAND OF MALLICOLLO— ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP AT TANNA— RECEPTION 281 CHAPTER XXIX. DEPARTURE PROM TANNA— SOME ACCOUNTS OF ITS INHABITANTS— DISCOVERY OF NEW CALEDONIA, AND INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN BALADE — ^THE ISLE OF PINES— DEPARTURE FOR NEW ZEALAND 289 CHAPTER XXX. PASSAGE FROM NEW CALEDONIA TO NEW ZEALAND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OP NORFOLK ISLAND, AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIP LAY AT QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND— FROM NEW ZEALAND TO TIERRA DEL FUEGO— TRANSACTIONS IN CHRISTMAS SOUND— RANGE FROM CHRISTMAS SOUND, BOUND CAPE HORN, THROUGH STRAIT LE MAIRE, AND ROUND STATEN LAND 296 CHAPTER XXXI. DISCOVERY OF THE ISLE OP GEORGIA — PROCEEniNGS AFTER LEAVING THE ISLE OP GEORGIA, AND AN ACCOUNT OP THE DISCOVERY OF SANDWICH LAND ; WITH SOME REASONS FOR THERE BEING LAND ABOUT THE SOUTH POLK— AN AC- COUNT OP OUR PROCEEDINGS TILL OUR ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 304 CHAPTER XXXII. CAPTAIN PURNEAUX'S NARRATIVE OF HIS PROCEEDINGS IN THE "ADVENTURE," INCLUDING LIEUTENANT BURNEY's REPORT CONCERNING THE BOAT's CREW WHO WERE MURDERED BY THE INHABITANTS OF QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND 312 CHAPTER XXXIII. TRANSACTIONS AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE— ARRIVAL OP THE SHIP AT ST. HELENA —PASSAGE FROJI ST. HELENA TO THE WESTERN ISLANDS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP THE ISLAND OK ASCENSION AND FERrANIX) NORONHA— ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OP FAYAL— THE RETURN OP THE "RESOLUTION" TO ENGLAND ...320 CONTENTS. xiu Cbicd Dosage. CHAPTER XXXIV. PREPARATION FOR THE VOYAGE— OMAl's BEHAVIOUR ON KMRARKINO— INSTRUC- TIONS TO CAPTAIN COOK— DEPARTURE OF THE "RESOLUTION" 327 CHAPTER XXXV. ARRIVAL OP THE "RESOLUTION" AT TENERIFFE— DEPARTURE FROM TENERIPFE— DANGER OF THE SHIP NEAR BONAVI8TA— ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE— THE TWO SHIPS LEAVE THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE— ARRIVAL IN CHRISTMAS HARBOUR— PASSAGE TO VAN DIEMEN's LAND— FROM VAN DIE- MEN'S land TO NEW ZEALAND— TKANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES 335 CHAPTER XXXVI. PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE- AN ISLAND CALLED MANGEKA DISCOVERED— THE DISCOVERY OF AN ISLAND CALLED W \TEEOO— MR. ANDERSON'S NARRATIVE — OTAKOOTAIA VISITED— HERVEY'S iSLAND FOUND TO BE INHABITED — PALMERSTON'S island TOUCHED AT— REFRJ)SH»IKNTS OBTAINED— ARRIVAL AT THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS 34G CHAPTER XXXVII. ARRIVAL AT ANNAMOOKA— TRANSACTIONS THERE— ARRIVAL OP THE SHIPS AT HAPAEE, AND FRIENDLY RECEPTION— ENTERTAINMENTS— POULAHO, KING OF THE FRIENDLY ISLES — RETURN TO ANNAMOOKA — ARRIVAL AT TONGA- TABU 35G CHAPTER XXXVIII. FRIENDLY RECEPTION AT TONG.\TABU— ENTERTAINMENT GIVEN BY MAREEWAGEE— ECLIPSE OP THE SUN— ACCOUNT OF THE ISLAND— DEPARTURE FROJI TON- GAT ABU— ARRIVAL AT EOOA — ACCOUNT OP THAT ISLAND— ACCOUNT OF THE FRIENDLY ISLES '.S CHAPTER XXXIX. THE ISLAND TOOBOUAI DISCOVERED— ARRIVAL IN OHEITEPEHA BAY AT OTAHEITE — OMAI'S RECEPTION — INTERVIEW WITH OTOO, KINO OF THE ISLAND — HUMAN SACRIFICE— OTOO'S PRESENT TO THE KINO OF GREAT BRITAIN- DEPARTURE PROM OTAHEITE 380 CHAPTER XL. ARRIVAL AT EIMKO— ARRIVAL AT HUAHEINE— COUNCIL OP CHIEFS— OMAl's ESTAB- LISHMENT IN THE ISLAND AGREED TO— A HOUSE BUILT FOR HIM— ARRn^AL AT ULIETEA— ARRIVAL AT BOLABOLA 392 CHAPTER XLI. PROOBESS OP THE VOYAGE AFTER LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLANDS— CHRISTMAS ISLAND DISCOVERED— .\CCOUNT OP THE ISLAND — DISCOVERY OF THE SAND- WICH ISLANDS— SOME ACCOUNT OP ATOOI 407 xiv CONTENTS. CHAPTER XLIJ, PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE— ARRIVAL ON THE COAST OK AMERICA— THE SHIPS ENTER ST. George's sound, or nootka— transactions with the natives —SOME account or NOOTKA AND ITS INHABITANTS 424 CHAPTER XLIII. the ships leave NOOTKA SOUND -TRANSACTIONS IN PRINCE WILLIAM'S SOUND- PROGRESS ALONG THE COAST— DISCOVERY OF COOK's RIVKP. 439 CHAPTER XLIV. PROGRESS NORTHWARD AFTER LEAVING OONALASHKA— DEATH OF MR. ANDERSON, THE SURGEON— THE COUNTRY OF THE TSCHUTSKI— THE SHIPS CROSS THE STRAIT TO THE COAST OK AMERICA— SITUATION OF ICY CAPE— SEA-HORSES— THE SEA BLOCKED UP WITH ICE— CAPE NORTH 453 CHAPTER XLV. RETURN FROM CAPE NORTH ALONG THE COAST OF ASIA— THE TSCHUTSKI— BAY OP ST. LAWRF.NCE— NORTON SOUND— ACCOUNT OF THE SETTLEMENT AT OONA- LASHKA— DEPARTURE FROM OONALASHKA— ARRIVAL AT OWHYHEE, ONE OP THE SANDWICH ISLANDS 403 CHAPTER XLVI. DESCRIPTION OF KARAKAKOOA BAY — VAST CONCOURSE OF NATIVES— VISIT FROM KOAH— THE MORAI AT KAKOOA DESCRIBED — CEREMONIES AT THE LANDING OF CAPTAIN COOK— RECEPTION OF CAPTAIN COOK— ARRIVAL OF THRREEOBOO, KING OF THE ISLAND— VISIT FROM THE KING— RETURNED BY CAPTAIN COOK 480 CHAPTER XLVII. FURTHER TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES— THEIR HOSPITALITY — DEATH OF ONE OF OUR SEAMEN— THE WOODWORK AND IMAGES ON THE MORAI PURCHASED— MAGNIFICENT PRESENTS OF TERREEOBOO TO CAPTAIN COOK— THE SHIPS LEAVE THE ISLAND— THE " RESOLUTION " DAMAGED IN A GALE AND OBLIGED TO RETURN 492 CHAPTER XLVIII. SUSPICIOUS BEHAVIOUR OF THE NATIVES ON OUR RETURN TO KARAKAKOOA BAY —THEFT ON BOARD THE " DISCOVERY "—THE PINNACE ATTACKED— THE CUTTER OF THE "DISCOVERY" STOLEN— MEASURES TAKEN BY CAPTAIN COOK FOR ITS RECOVERY— NEWS ARRIVES OP ONE OF THE CHIEFS BEING KILLED BY OUR PEOPLE — FERMENT ON THIS OCCASION — ONE OF THE NATIVES THREATENS CAPTAIN COOK, AND IS SHOT BY HIM— GENERAL ATTACK BY THE NATIVES— DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOK 503 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. porthait of captain cook, Map of Polynesia, The Transit of Venus, Native House, Otaheite, Map op New Zealand, New Zealandek, War Canoe, New Zealand, Map op Australia, AusTE VLiAN Landscape with Kanoakoos, White Gum Tree, Australia, Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope, Among THE Ice Islands, Dancing Woman, Otaheite, Double Canoe op Tonoatabu, Woman op Easter Island, Statues on Easter Island, Map op the New Hebrides, etc.. Scene IN New Caledonia, Coast op Van Diemen's Land, Scene in Atooi, Sandwich Islands, SuRP-swiMMiNo, Sandwich Islands, Man of Nootka Sound, Woman op Nootka Sound, Man op Prince William's Sound, Woman of Prince William's Sound, Mowke, Sandwich Islands, Death of Captain Cook, Frontispiect, 31 46 60 74 121 122 124 148 166 189 200 240 264 271 271 200 411 419 432 433 442 442 472 609 LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. 1728-1779. JAMES COOK was born in the little village of Marton, 1728. on the edge of the Cleveland Hills, on October 27, October. 1728. His father, James Cook, was in the humble station of a " servant in husbandry." He married a woman of the same rank with himself, whose Christian name was Grace. Both of them were noted in their neighbourhood for their honesty, sobriety, and diligence. " The mud house in which Captain Cook drew his first breath " no longer exists, and the only relic of his childhood is a pump called " Captain Cook's pump," constructed, it is said, by his father. The first rudiments of young Cook's education were received by him at Marton, where he was taught to read by Dame Walker, the schoolmistress of the village. When he was eight years old, his father, " in consequence of the character he had obtained for industry, frugality, and skill in Husbandry," had a little promotion bestowed on hinj, and he removed with his fanjily to the village of Great Ayton, some five miles from Marton. Here James was put to a day-school, where he was instructed in " writing, and in a few of the first rules of arithmetic." Before he was thirteen years of age, he was bound an apprentice to one Sanderson, a shopkeeper at Staithes, a considerable fishing village some nine miles north of Whitby. No more unsuitable employment could have been found for the boy. To go to sea was the object of his life ; and his passion for it must have been strengthened by the situation of the village in which he was placed, and the conversation of those amongst whom he was chiefly known. Apprentices slept under the counter in those days, and James (561) 1 ii LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. [1742. Cook was no exception. In the mornings he swept out and arranged the shop, ate his breakfast — which consisted of a " hunch of bread, a lump of fat bacon, and a mug of small ale" — and all day long fetched, carried, and waited on liis master. When his hours of work were over he would listen to the fishermen's yarns of the sea. He soon knew all about the men who fished all night for herrings, of those who had gone to the Arctic seas in whalers and had met with perils among the ice, of those who had been pressed into King George's service, fought His Majesty's battles, and returned with backs bearing marks of the captain's discipline. He knew about the- clumsy boats that went to sea, too clumsy to answer their helm ; of the foul water to drink, salt junk to eat ; of the sufferings from scurvy and brutality of commanders ; but notwithstanding all this, a great longing seized the boy to go to sea. At last a time came when shop work became intolerable to him. He tied up his f jw belongings — one shirt and a jack-knife — in his only handkerchief, and one July morning, at daybreak, he stole out of the shop, passed down the narrow street, and started off to walk the nine miles to Whitby. His master woke at six, found the shop shutters still closed, the shop unswept, and crept to the corner for the stick which daily admonished his apprentice ; but the boy was gone, the blanket thrown back, the sacking on which he lay crumpled up. He never inquired where he had gone. All his apprentices ran away to sea sooner or later : James Cook was not likely to prove an exception. Arrived at Whitby, James Cook was taken as ship's boy on board the Freelove, a collier belonging to the brothers Walker. The period following this is dark and obscure ; all details of Jtis life between 1742 and 1755 are lost. We do not know what voyages he made, or between which ports he traded. Only one thing is certain — in these thirteen years Cook learned thoroughly the duties of a sailor. He learned to endure the utmost hardships of the sea : constant fighting with North Sea gales, bad food, at)d|^ fierce encounters with storm and danger, taught him to treat wiA ''■■ indifference the hardships he endured later, enabled him'tO perse- vere when others were ready to give up. Ji* V* 17BB.] LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. Hi On this collier vessel he seems to have served till 1755, when he had already risen to the position of mate. War breaking out between England and France in this year, and there consequently being a great demand for sailors, James Cook entered His Majesty's service as an " able seaman," and was at once sent on board tho Eagle, bound for North America. Captain Hugh Pallisor, who succeeded to the command of the Eagle in October, marked the young sailor as one full of promise ; and by his interest Cook was, at the age of thirty, given command of the Mercury, with orders to join the English fleet thei. engaged in the siege of Quebec. The Mercury went to North America, where she joined the fleet which, with the land forces under General Wolfe, was engaged in the siege of Quebec. During that siege a difficult and dangerous service had to be performed. This was to take the soundings in the channel of the river St. Lawrence directly in the front of the French fortified camp, in order to enable the admiral to place ships against the enemy's batteries, and to cover our army in a general attack which Wolfe intended to make on the camp. Cook was chosen for this service, and he performed it, we are told, "in the most complete manner." He was employed during the night-time for several nights together. At length he was discovered by the enemy, who collected a great number of Indians and canoes in a wood near the water-side for the purpose of sur- rounding him and cutting him ofT. On this occasion he had a very narrow escape. He was obliged to run fc it, and pushed on shore near the guard of the English hospital. Some of the Indians entered at the stern of the boat as Cook leaped out at the b«w; and the boat, which was a barge belonging to one of the ships of Avar, was carried away in triumph. However, he pre- sented tho admiral with a correct and complete draft of the channel and soundings, though he had hardly ever used a pencil and knew nothiiig of drawing. " But such was his capacity," says his old biographer, " that he speedily made himself master of every object to which he applied his attention." He was iaimediately employed in making a survey of the intricate channels of the river St Lawrence below Quebec ; and again he was so successful that his chart of the river was published Iv LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. [176». with soundings and directions for sailing. "And," adds his biographer proudly, "of the accuracy and utility of this chart it is sufficient to say that it hath never since been found necessary to publish any other." How Cook obtained all the knowledge he did there is no record to show ; but there is no other case of a sailor boy of humble birth starting in the lowest place, being promoted to the rank of "master" in the king's navy at the age of thirty, and moreover selected for a piece of work needing considerable experience. He was at this time over x feet high. His face was remark- able for its patience, resolu n, and perseverance ; his eyes were quick and piercing, with largo bushy eyebrows ; his face was long and thin ; his hair was rolled back and tied behind in a " pii ^1," after the fashion of his time. Possessed of a strong constitution, he was capable of enduring the severest hardships. He could eat the coarsest food. He desired no better fare than he served to hit, men. With them he would "labour hard till sunset;" with them he would " sleep on a stony beach," or struggle with frozen ropes. On the 22nd of September 1759 Cook was appointed master of the Norilmmberland man-of-war, bearing the admiral's flag. Wintering at Halifax, he set himself to learn Euclid, astronomy, and other branches of science. The Northumberland returned to England in 1762. About Christmas the same year Cook married Elizabeth Batts, "an amiable and deserving woman, who was justly entitled to enjoy his tenderest regard and aflection." Four months later, he was called on to make marine surveys about Newfoundland. A schooner, the Grenville, was placed under his command, and he spent four years in making out charts, which were so admirable in execution that they have not yet been wholly superseded by the surveys of modern times. Whilst there, too, he wrote a short paper, "An Observation of the Eclipse of the Sun at the Island of Newfoundland, August 5, 1766, with the Longitude of the Place of Observation deduced from it" And this was the work of one who, twenty-five years before, had tied a shirt and a jack-knife up in his handkerchief, and run away to sea to take his place as cabin-boy on board a collier ship I And his life was yet before him. Cook returned to England in 1767 to find a keen interest 1770.] LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. awakening in men's minds with regard to the great unknown Pacific Ocean. True, the century had produced explorers and navigators : the names of Anson, Byron, Willis, Carteret stand out in connection with hitherto unknown islands and unexplored continents. But navigation at this time was fraught with dangers undreamed of now, and one by one the shi))s returned, their crews dying from the scourge of the sailor's life, scurvy. Each voyage tells its own story-— limited water, contrary winds, inability to get fresh food, and consequent outbreak of scurvy, put an end to each expedition in turn. James Cook too had to buy his experience. In 1768 a new expedition was planned to the Pacific Ocean, and Cook, raised to the rank of lieutenant, was singled out for the command. He was also to observe the approaching transit of Venus over the sun's disc from the island of Otaheite the following year. Allowed to choose his own ship, he returned to his old friends at Whitby and selected the Endeavour, a strong, stoutly- built collier of 370 tons, designed perhaps more for safety in bad weather than for speed. With a crew of ninety-four men, and provisions for ten months, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth Sound on August 26, 1768. Precautions against scurvy had not been forgotten. Sour krout, a quantity of malt to be made into wort, mustard, vinegar, wheat, orange and lemon juices, portable soup, etc., were on board. Cold bathing was not only encouraged, but enforced by example. Wild celery and other wild herbs were eaten whenever an oppor- tunity occurred of getting them. So the ship passed Cape Horn, her crew well, and sailed into the South Pacific Ocean in January 1769, arriving at Otaheite three months later. Having there observed the transit of Venus, Cook discovered and visited the Society Isles. In October he " fell in " with the east coast of New Zealand, which he continued to explore for six months, proving it to consist of two large islands, and to form no part of the great southern continent. The health of his crew allowed him to make good use of his time, instead of hurrying on, as his predecessors had been forced to do. In March 1770, he sailed for the coast of Australia, following it northward for nearly two thousand miles. When near the northern end, the LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. [1771. ship grounded on a coral reef near the land. " Cook's seamanship was, however, equal to the occasion." Again and again his calm- ness and dexterity saved him and his ship. Passing between the northern extremity of Australia and New Guinea, he proved them to be entirely separate, and not united as the early maps re- presented. So far all had gone well. The Endeavour was on her homeward track when disease and death overtook the little crew. Cook's biographer tells the story. " As the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, the seeds of disease appeared with the most threatening symptoms, and reduced our navigators to a very melancholy situation. The ship was, in fact, nothing better than a hospital, in which those who could go about were not sufficient for a due attendance upon those who were sick. The lieutenant ordered all the parts of the vessel between the decks to be washed with vinegar. But the malady had taken too deep root to be speedily eradicated. Mr. Banks was reduced so low that for some time there was no hope of his life ; and so fatal was the disease to many others, that almost every night a dead 'ody was committed to the sea. There were buried in the course of six weeks the natural-history painter, the astronomer, the boatswain, the carpenter and his mate, two midshipmen, the old jolly sail- maker and his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crow, and nine seamen." The Endeavour ariived in England on July 2, 1771, after three years' absence. But one great problem was filling the mind of Lieutenant Cook. He had mastered the difficulties and dangers of navigation in unknown seas : he had not mastered the problem of feeding his crew to prevent the appearance of scurvy. Accordingly, when he was appointed to command the Resolu- tier, in November 1771, "to complete the discovery of the South- ern Hemisphere," liis whole attention was turned to this one sub- ject And so successful waa he in victualling the ships, and in redoubling his precautions as to cleanliness, that the result was a clean bill of health after a voyage of three years of unsurpassed hardship and exposure. The Resolution, 462 tons, together with the Adventure, under 1776.] LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. v« the command of Captain Furneaux, left England, July 13, 1772. Leaving the Cape at the end of November, Cook sailed to the south till fields of ice drove him northwards. Having sailed over eleven thousand miles without seeing land, he anchored in Dusky Bay on March 23, 1773. Having refreshed his crew in New Zealand, md spent three months at Otaheite, he sailed south, and was s^ion battling with ice again. Still his crew was free from scurvy, a silent proof of the unwearying supervision the com- mander exercised over his men. Again stopped by ice, Cook left the southern latitudes and sailed north. A few days at Easter Island, on to the Marquesas, and once more the Resolution sailed into Mata,vai Bay, Otaheite, to be welcomed as usual with general friendliness and affection. On May 16, 1774, they sailed for Huaheine, and discovered Palmerston Island, Savage Island, the Sandwich Islands, New Caledonia, and Staten Island, on his way once more to seek for the sujjposed southern continent. But he did not find it. He found the island of Georgia, covered in the middle of the Antarctic summer with snow and ice. But no refreshment was possible in these ice-bound regions ; the sails and rigging.s of the ship were Sv much worn that " something was giving way every hour,'* and the provisions of the vessel were in such a state of decay that they offered but little nourishment, so reluctantly Cook decided to turn home again. Thus, having completely circumnavigated the globe near the Antarctic circle, the Resolution arrived at Spithead, July 30, 1775, having been absent three years eighteen days, in which time, and under all the changes of climate, he had lost but four men, and only one of them by sickness. Only a year's rest, mostly spent with his wife and children in a modest suburb, and Captain Cook was off again, this time to explore the much-disputed North- West Passage. On July 11, 1776, the little Resolution, with the Discovery in company, started with her usual complement of men and officers, and the following January found Captain Cook anchoring in Adventure Bay, Van Diemen's Land. After spending some weeks at the Friendly Isles, the Society Isles, and the Sandwich Islands, Cook sailed north, up the west coast of North America, until stopped by ice. Unable to find a nort'iern passage, and the Vlll LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. [17TO. M i i jeason being far advanced, he returned to the Sandwich Islands to refresh his crew before sailing to the north in the spring. At Hawaii he was murdered on February 14, 1779. The last chapter in Cook's life is tragic, and until recent years has remained un- explained. But the explanation is interesting. It would appear that long ago there lived one Lono or Rono, a swine-god. After killing his wife he became insane, and after boxing and wrestling with every man he met, he had sailed away in a canoe, prophesying, " I will return again, on an island with trees, hogs, and dogs." He was looked on as a god by the natives, and temples were erected in his honour. When Cook arrived at Hawaii, it was the day after a great battle, in which the king of Hawaii had been victorious. The victors made no doubt that Lono had come in person to sanction their victory. And in their minds Lono was Cook. When Cook landed he was received with edoration : the crowds, which flecked in their thousands, prostrated themselves before him ; the priests attended him with mysterious ceremony. But of the cause Cook was in total ignorance. To him this adoration was. inexplicable. He bl-naly did what was evidently required of him, and the ships sailec' away, to the evident relief of the people. But the Resolu- tion sprang her foremast in a gale, and Cook returned for repairs. All was changed. No crowd of canoes, no adoration, no en- thusiasm ; the old power was gone. At was eight o'clock on Sunday morning. One of the Discovery's cutters had been stolen, and Cook went on shore to take and detain the king on board his ship till the missing boat was restored. Meanwhile, unintentionally, a chief had been killed. " It is war ; they have killed a chief," cried the ignorant natives. Confusion followed. The English sailors, fearing for their captain, began to fire without orders. Cook was moving towards the shore, when he was stabbed in the back with a dagger. He fell with his face to the water, dead. Thus, at the age of fifty-one, died one of the greatest navi- gators the world has seen : great not only as a navigator, but as a man who had opened the way for further navigation, by discover- ing how to keep off disease, and so enable ships to keep at sea without endangering the lives of the crews. 1779.] LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. ix The man's life had been a hard one. The secret of his success was that indomitable perseverance and determination that never gave up till the object in view was attained, however great the suffering it entailed. It is difficult to extract much of personal interest from t'le great folio volumes of Cook's journals : the captain preserves an ominous silence with regard to his own feel- ings ; liis likes and dislikes are never alluded to. He was capable of great endurance, disdainful of comfort or luxuries, satisfied to fulfil his duty at any cost. He commanded unbounded respect from those serving under him. His long service in the stormy waters of the German Ocean ; the rough and coarse food on which he had lived as a boy ; his close contact with rough, uneducated sailors, "whose wants, whose vices, and whose virtues" he knew better than any other officer of his time — these had enabled him to endure and to command, When the men complain of the "salted junk" and the "rotten sea-biscuit," and the Resolution is hung with icicles on rigging and mast — when grey albatrosses and blue petrels are the only signs of life to enliven the monotonous days — the captain, " his face set southwards," steers on through the ice- bound seas, thinking not of hunger and monotony, but of "how soon he can break through that wall of ice and learn what is beyond." To fulfil all that was required of him, to exert himself un- weariedly in the service of his country — these were the objects he set before him to fulfil. And surely in these he did not fail. ROUND THE WORLD. ^iret "Wo^afic. CHAPTER I. PASSAGE FROM PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA, AND FROM MADEIRA TO RIO DE JANEIRO —THE PASSAGE FROM RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE ENTRANCE OF TUE STRAIT OF LE MAIRB, August HAVING received my commisBion, which was dated 1768. the 25th of May 1768, I went on board on the "*y- 27 th, hoisted the pennant, and took charge of the ship, which then lay in the basin in Deptford yard. She was fitted for sea with all expedition ; and stores and provisions being taken on board, sailed down the river on the 30th of July, and on the 13th of A'TCfust anchored in Plymouth Sound. While we lay here waiting for a wind, the articles of war and the Act of Parliament were read to the ship's company, who were paid two months' wages in advance, and told that they were to expect no additional pay for the performance of the voyage. On Friday the 26th of August, the wind becoming fair, we got under sail, and put to sea. On the 31st we saw several of the birds which the sailors call Mother Carey's chickens, and which they suppose to be the forerunners of a storm ; and on the next day we had a very hard gale, which brought us under our courses, washed overboard a small boat belonging to the boatswain, and drowned three or four dozen of our poultry, which we regretted still more. On the 12th we discovered the islands of Porto Santo and Madeira, and on the next day anchored in Funchal Koad, and Sept. 12 FROM MADEIRA TO TENERIFFE. [1768. moored with the stream-anchor ; but, in the night, the bend of the hawser of the stream-anchor slipped, owing to the negligence of the person who had been employed to make it fast. In the morning the anchor was heaved up into the boat, and carried out to the southward ; but in heaving it again, Mr. Weir, the master's mate, was carried overboard by the buoy-rope, and went to the bottom with the anchor. The people in the ship saw the accident, and got the anchor up with all possible expedition. It was, however, too late ; the body came up entar- ^led in the buoy-rope, but it was dead. On Thursday the 1 •'^th we had squalls of wind from the land, with rain most part of these twenty-four hours. I received on board fresh beef and greens for the ship's company, and sent on. shore all our casks for wine and water. On Friday the 16th I punished Henry Stevens, seaman, and Thomas Dunster, marine, with twelve lashes each, for refusing to take their allowance of fresh beef. I also issued to the whole ship's company twenty pounds of onions per man. The refreshinents to be had here are water, wine, fruit of several sorts, onions in plenty, and some sweetmeats ; fresh meat and poultry are not to be had without leave from the governor, and the payment of a very high price. We took in 270 lbs. of fresh beef, and a live bullock charged at 613 Iba, 3,032 gallons of water, and ten tuns of wine; and in the night between Sunday the 18th and Monday the 19th of September we set sail in prosecution of our voyage. On Friday the 23rd we saw the Peak of Teneriffe bearing W. by S. \ S. The height of this mountain, from which I took a new departure, has been determined by Dr. Heberden, who has been upon it, to be 15,396 feet, which is but 148 yards less than three miles, reckoning the mile at 1760 yarda Its appearance at sunset was very striking ; when the sun was below the horizon, and the rest of the island appeared of a deep black, the mountain still reflected his rays, and glowed with a warmth of colour which no painting can express. There is no eruption of visible fire from it, but a heat issues from the chinks near the top, too strong to be borne by the hand when it is held near them. On Saturday the 24th we had a fresh breeze and clear weather, I take this to be the NE. trade we have now got into. I now [1761. If6&] ACROSS THE EQUATOR. 13 served wine to the ship's company, the beer being all expended but two casks, which I intend to keep some time longer, as the whole has proved very good to the last cask. At 6 a.m, on the 30th we saw the island of Bonavista (one of the Tape de Verd Islands). We ranged the east side of this island at the distance of three or four miles from the shore, until we were obliged to haul off to avoid a ledge of rocks which stretched out SW. by W. from the body. On the 1st of October, in lat. U" 6' N. and long. 22° Oct. 10' W., we found the variation by a very good azimuth to be 10° 37' W., and the next morning it appeared to be 10°. This day we found the ship five miles ahead of the log, and the next day seven. On the 3rd, hoisted out the boat to discover whether there was a current, and found one to the eastward, at the rate of three-quarters of a mile an hour. During our course from Teneriffe to Bonavista we saw great numbers of flying-fish, which from the cabin windows appear beautiful beyond imagination, their sides having the colour and brightness of burnished silver ; when they are seen from the deck they do not appear to so much advantage, because their backs are of a dark colour. We also took a shark, which proved to be the Squalus carcharias of LinnjBus. Having lost the trade-wind on the 3rd, in lat. 12° 14' and long. 22° 10', the wind became somewhat variable, and we had light airs and calms by turns. On the 25th we crossed the line, and the next day, when it was no longer doubted that we were to the southward of the line, the ceremony on this occasion practised by all nations was not omitted. Every one that could not prove upon the sea chart that he had before crossed the line was either to pay a bottle of rum or be ducked in the sea, which former case was the fate of by far the greatest part on board; and as several of the men chose to be ducked, and the weather was favourable for that purpose, this cere- mony was performed over about twenty or thirty, to the no small diversion of the rest. I now determined to put into Rio de Janeiro in preference to any other port in Brazil or Falkland Islands, for at this place I knew we could recruit our stock of provisions, sevei'al articles of »4 ARRIVAL AT RIO DE JANEIRO. [17611 Nov. which I found we should in time bo in want of, and at the same time procure live-stock and rffreshment for the people ; and from the reception former ships h. net with here, I doubted not but we should be well received. On the 8th, at daybreak, we saw the coast of Brazil, and about ten o'clock we brought to, and spoke with a fishing- boat. The people on board told us that the land which we saw lay to the southward of Santo Espirito, but belonged to the captainship of that place. It appears high and mountainous. We stood off and on along the shore till the 12th, and succes- sively saw a remarkable hill near Santo Espirito, then Cape St Thomas, and then an island just without Cape Frio, which in some maps is called the island of Frio, and which being high, with a hollow in the middle, haa the appearance of two islands when seen at a distance. On this day we stood along the shore for Rio de Janeiro, and at nine the next morning made sail for the harbour. I then sent Mr. Hicks, my first lieutenant, before us in the pinnace, up to the city, to acquaint the governor that we put in there to procure water and refreshments, and to desire the assist- ance of a pilot to bring us into proper anchoring-ground. I con- tinued to stand up the river till five o'clock in the evening, expect- ing the return of my lieutenant ; and just as I was about to anchor above the island of Cobras, which lies before the city, the pinnace came back without him, having on board a Portuguese officer, but no pilot. The people in the boat told me that my lieutenant was detained by the viceroy till I should go on shore. We came im- mediately to an anchor ; and, almost at the same time, a ten-oared boat, full of soldiers, came up and kept rowing round the ship, without exchanging a word. In less than a quarter of an hour, another boat came with several of the viceroy's officers, who asked whence we came, what was our cargo, the number of men and guns on board, the object of our voyage, and several other questions, which we directly and truly answered. They then told nie, as a kind of apology for detaining my lieutenant and putting an officer on board my pinnace, that it was the invariable custom of the place to detain the first officer who camo on shore from any ship on her arrival, till a boat from the viceroy had visited her, and to suffer no boat to go either from or to a ship, while she lay [17M 1768.] RECEPTION BY THE VICEROY. »s there, without having a soldier on board. They said that I might go on shore when I pleased ; but wished that every other person might remain on board till the paper which they should draw up had been delivered to the viceroy, promising that, immediately upon their return, the lieutenant should be sent on board. This promise was performed ; and on the next morning, the 14th, I went on shore, and obtained leave of the viceroy to pur- chase provisions and refreshments for the ship, provided I would employ one of their own people as a factor, but not otherwise. I made some objections to this, but he insisted upon it as the custom of the place. I objected also against the putting a soldier into the boat every time she went between the ship and the shore ; but ho told me that this was done by the express orders of his court, with which he could in no case dispense. I then requested that the gentlemen whom I had on board might reside on shore during our stay, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to gather plants ; but this he absolutely refused. I judged from his extreme caution and the severity of these restrictions that he suspected we were come to trade ; I therefore took some pains to convince him of the contrary. I told him that we were bound to the southward, by the order of His Britannic Majesty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over the sun. Of the transit of Venus he could form no other conception than that it was the passing of the North Star through the South Pole. On the 15th I received on board fresh beef and greens for the ship's company, with which they were served every day during our stay here. For three days past I have remon.strated to the viceroy and his officers against his putting a guard into my boat, thinking I could not answer to the Admiralty for tamely submitting to such a custom, which, when practised in its full force, must bring disgrace to the British flag. On the other hand, I was loth to enter into disputes, seeing how much I was like to be delayed and embarrassed in getting the supplies I wanted ; for it was with much difficulty that I obtained leave for one of my people to attend the market to buy necessaries for my table, and to assist the agent to buy the things for the ship. Having gained this point, and settled every- thing with the agent in regard to what was wanting for the ship, i6 DEPARTURE FROM RIO DE JANEIRO. [1768. I resolved, rather than be made a prisoner in my own boat, not to go any more ashore unless I could do it without having a soldier put into the boat, as had hitherto been done ; and thinking that the viceroy might lie under some mistake which on proper appli- cation might be cleared up, I therefore drew up a memorial stating the whole case, and sent to the viceroy this afternoon ; and thus a paper war commenced between me and His Excellency, wherein I had no other advantage than the racking his invention to find reasons for treating us in the manner he did, for he never would relax the least from any one point. On Friday the 18th I received an answer to my memorial, wherein he tells me, amongst other things, that if I think it hard submitting to the customs of this port, I may leave it when I please; this did not suit my purpose at present, but I resolved to make my stay as short as possible. I must own that the memorial of the viceroy's was well drawn up and very much to the purpose, which is more than I can say of any of the subsequent ones. On Wednesday the 30th I punished Robert Anderson, seaman, and William Judge, marine, with twelve lashes each, the former for leaving his duty ashore and attempting to desert from the ship, and the latter for using abusive language to the oflScer of the watch ; and John Reading, boatswain's mate, with twelve lashes for not doing his duty in punishing the above two men. Sent ashore to the viceroy for a pilot to carry us to sea, who sent one on board together with a large boat, which I did not want ; but it is the custom in this port for the pilots to have such a boat to attend upon the ship they pilot out, and for which you must pay ten shillings per day, besides the pilot's fee, which is seven pounds four shillings sterling. On the 1st we received on board a large quantity of fresh beef, greens, and yams for the ship's company. At nine o'clock next day wo weighed, and came to sail, and turned down the bay. Peter Flower, seaman, fell overboard, and before any assistance could be given him was drowned ; in his room we got a Portuguese. On Wednesday the 7th, with a gentle breeze at SE, we weighed and towed out of the bay, discharging the pilot and his boat. A breeze of wind springing up easterly, made sail out to sea, 1769.] ADVANTAGES OF THE HARBOUR. X7 and sent a boat to one of the islands lying before the bay to cut brooms, a thing we were not permitted to do while we lay in the harbour ; the guard boat, which liad constantly attended all the time we lay in the bay and harbour, did not leave us until the pilot was discharged. It is remarkable that, during the last three or four days of our staying in this harbour, the air was loaded with butterflies. They were chiefly of one sort, but in such numbers that thousands were in view in every direction, and the greatest part of them above our mast-head. Upon the whole, Rio de Janeiro is a very good place for ships to put in at wanting refreshment ; the harbour is safe and com- modious, and provisions, except wheaten bread and flour, may be easily procured. As a succedaneum for bread, there are yams and cassada in plenty ; beef, both fresh and jerked, may be bought at about twopence farthing a pound, though it is very lean. The people here jerk their beef by taking out the bones, cutting it into large but thin slices, then curing it with salt, and drying it in the shade ; it eats very well, and, if kept dry, will remain good a long time at sea. Mutton is scarcely to be pro- cured, and hogs and poultry are dear ; of garden stuff" and fruit there is abundance, of which, however, none can be preserved at sea but the pumpkin ; rum, sugar, and molasses, all excellent in their kind, may be had at a reasonable price ; tobacco also is cheap, but it is not good. Here is a yard for building shipping, and a small hulk to heave down by, for, as the tide never rises above six or seven feet, there is no other way of coming at a ship's bottom. When the boat which had been sent on shore returned, we hoisted her on board and stood out to sea. Nothing remarkable happened till the 30th, except that we prepared for the bad weather which we were shortly to expect by bending a new suit of sails. But on this day we caught a great number of insects. Some of them were on the wing, but the greater part were on the water, and many of these alive and of such sort as cannot fly far, and yet at this time we could not be less than thirty leagues from the land. On the 3rd of January, being in lat. 47° 17' S. 1769. and long. 61" 29' 45" W., we were all looking out for January. Pepys' Island, and for some time an appearance was seen in the (661) 2 z8 COLD WEATHER ENCOUNTERED. [1769. east which so much rosemhlcd land that we bore away for it ; and it was more than two hours and a half before we were convinced that it was nothing but what sailors call a fogbank. The people now beginning to complain of cold, each of them received what is called a Magellanic jacket and a pair of trousera The jacket is made of a thick woollen stufT, called fearnought, which is provided by the government. We saw, from time to time, a great number of penguins, albatrosses, and shoerwaters, seals, whales, and porpoises; and on the 11th, having passed Falkland's Islands, wo discovered the coast of Ticrra del Fuego, at the distance of about four leagues, extending from the W. to SE. by S. We had here five and thirty fathoms ; the ground was soft. As we ranged along the shore to the SE. at the distance of two or three leagues, avo perceived smoke in several places, which was made by the natives, ;jrobably as u signal, for they did not continue it after we had passed by. ■ ' -'a day we discovered that the ship had got near a degree of longitude to the westward of the log, which, in this latitude, is thirty-five minutes of a degree on the equator ; probably there is a small current setting to the westward, which may be caused by 'he westerly current coming round Cape Horn and through tho '■Strarb or Le Maire and the indraught of the Strait of Magellan. ifaving continued to range the coast, on the 14th we entered the Strait of Le Maire; but the tide turning against us, 'Irove us out with great violence, and raised such a sea oft" Cape St. Diego that the waves had exactly the same appearance as they would have had if they had broke over a ledge of rocks ; and when the ship was in tliis torrent she frequently pitched so that the bowsprit was under water. About noon we got under the land between Cape St. Diego and Cape St. Vincent, where I intended to have anchored ; but finding the ground everywhere hard and rocky, and shallowing from thirty to twelve fathoms, I sent the master to examine a little cove which lay at a small distance to the east- ward of Cape St. Vincent. When he returned he reported that there was anchorage in four fathoms and a good bottom close to the eastward of the first bluff point on the east of Cape St. Vincent, at the very entrance of tho cove, to which I gave the name of Vincent's Bay. 1769.] ARRIVAL AT FHE STRAIT OF IE MAIRE. 19 At 2 p.ni. on tlie 16th we anchored in the Bay of Success. Having hoisted out the boats and moored with tho stream-anchor, I went aahoro to look for a watering place and to speak with the natives, who were assembled on the bench at tho head of the bay to the number of thirty or forty. They were so far from being afraid or surprised at our coming amongst them, that three of them came on board without the least hesitation. They are something above the middle size, of a dark copper colour, with long black hair; they paint their bodies in streaks, mostly red and black. Their clothing consists wholly in a guanaco skin or that of a seal, in the same form as it came from the animal's back. Their huts are made like a beehive, and open on one side N ■ ^e they have their fires ; they are made of small sticks and covered with branches of trees, long grass, etc., in such a manner that they are proof against neither wind, hail, rain, nor snow — a sufficient proof that these people must be a very hardy race. Tliey live chiefly on shellfish, such as mussels, which they gather from off the rocks along the sea-shore, and this seems to be the work of the women. Their arms are bows and arrows neatly made. Their arrows are bearded, some with glass and othera with fine flint; several pieces of the former we saw amongst them with other European things, such as rings, buttons, cloth, canvas, etc.^ which I think proves that they must sometimes travel to the north- ward, as we know of no ship that has been in these parts for many years. Besides, they were not at all surprised at our firearms ; on the contrary, they seemed to know the use of them, by making signs to us to fire at seals or birds that might come in the way. They have no boats that we saw, or anything to go upon the water with ; their number does not exceed fifty or sixty, young and old, and there are fewer women than men. They are extremely fond of any red thing, and seemed to set more value on beads than anything we could give them. In this consists thtir whole pride ; few, either men or women, are without a necklace or string of beads made of small shells or bones about their necks. They would not taste any strong liquor, neither did they seem fond of our provi- sions. In a word, they are perhaps as miserable a set of people as are this day upon the earth. 9P CHAPTER II. EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF PLANTS— PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT OK LE MAIRE —SEQUEL or THE PASSAGE FROM CAPE HORN TO THE NEWLY-DISCOVERED ISLANDS IN THE SOUTH SEAS. 1769. January. ON the 16th, early in the morning, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with their attendants and servants, and two seamen to assist in carrying the baggage, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, and Mr. Green, the astronomer, set out from the ship, with a view to penetrate as far as they could into the country, and return at night. The hills, when viewed at a distance, seemed to be partly a wood, partly a plain, and above them a bare rock. Mr. Banks hoped to get through the wood, and made no doubt but that beyond it he should, in a country which no botanist had ever yet visited, find alpine plants which would abundantly compensate his labour. They entered the wood at a small sandy beach, a little to the westward of the watering place, and continued to ascend the hill, through the pathless wilderness, till three o'clock, before they got a near view of the places which they intended to visit. Soon after they reached what they had taken for a plain ; but, to their great disappoint- ment, found it a swamp covered with low bushes of birch, about three feet high, interwoven with each other, and ./ jbborn that they could not be l)ent out of the way ; it was therefore necessary to lift the leg over theni, which, at every step, was buried ankle deep in the soil. To aggravate the pain and diflBculty of such travelling, the weather, which hitherto had been very fine, much like one of our bright days in May, became gloomy and cold ; with .sudden blasts of a most piercing wind, accompanied with snow. They pushed forward, however, in good spirits, notwithst/anding their fatigue, hoping the worst of the way was past; but when 1769.] INTENSE COLD. ax they had got about two-thirds over this woody swamp, Mr. Buchan was unhappily seized with a fit. This made it necessary for the whole company to halt, and as it was impossible that he should go any farther, a tire was kindled, and those who were most fatigued were left behind to take care of him. The others pushed on, and in a short time reached the summit. As botanists, their expecta- tions were here abundantly gratified. The cold was now become more severe and the snow blasts more frequent ; the day also was so far spent that it was found impossible to get back to the ship before the next morning. To pass the night upon such a mountain, in such a climate, was not onl} comfortless, but dreadful. It was proposed that they should push through the swamp, which seemed to be more than half a mile over, into the shelter of the wood, and there build their wigwam and make a fire ; this, as their way was all down hill, it seemed easy to accomplish. Their whole company assembled at the rendezvous, and, though pinched with the cold, were in health and spirits, Mr. Buchan himself having recovered his strength in a much greater degree than could have been expected. It was now near eight o'clock in the evening, but still good daylight, and they set forward for the nearest valley, Mr. Banks himself undertaking to bring up the rear, and see that no straggler was left behind. This may, perhaps, be tliought a superfluous caution, but it will soon appear to be otherwise. Dr. Solander, who had more than once crossed the mountains which divide Sweden from Norway, well knew that extreme cold, especially when joined with fatigue, produces a torpor and sleepiness that are almost irresistible ; ho therefore conjured the company to keep moving, whatever pain it might cost them, and whatever relief they might be promised by an inclination to rest. " Whoever sits down," says he, " will sleep ; and whoever sleeps will Avake no more." Thus, at once admonished and alarmed, they set forward ; but while they were still upon the naked rock, and before they had got among the bushes, the cold becprao suddenly so intense as to produce the effects that had been most dreaded. Dr. Solander himself was the first who found the inclination, against which he had warned others, irresistible, and insisted upon being suffered to lie down. Mr. Banks entreated ■SSB 23 OVERCOME WITH SLEEP. [ma. and remoiLstrated in vain : down he lay upon the ground, though it was covered with snow ; and it was with great difficulty that his friend kept him from sleeping. Richmond also, one of the black servants, began to linger, having suflered from the cold in the same manner as the doctor. Mr. Banks therefore sent five of the com- pany, among whom was Mr. Buchan, forward to get a fire ready at the first convenient place they cc vll v < and himself, with four others, remained with the doctor in i \\\ ■ , ad, whom, partly by persuasion and entreaty, and partly ))y force, they brought on; but when they had got through the greatest part of the birch and swamp they both declared they could go no farther. Mr. Banks had recourse again to enL^eaty and expostulation, but they produced no effect. When Richnond was told that if he did not go on he would in a short time be frozen to death, he answered that he desired nothing but to lie down and die : the doctor did not so explicitly renounce his life ; he said he was willing to go on, but that he must first take some sleep, though he had before told the company that to sleep was to perir h. Mr. Banks and the rest found it impossible to carry them, and. t'n i-e being no remedy, they were both suffered to sit down, being i iirtiy supported by the bushes, and in a few minutes they fell int ■> . pn :£■ , and sleep. Soon after, some of the people who had bean pj. , ( > n. 1 returned with the welcome news that a fire was kindled iii)> r , qunrter of a mile farther on the. way. Mr. Banks then endeavon" ^<^ ,o wake Dr. Solander, and happily succeeded ; but, thou^,'h he bid not slept five minutes, he had almost lost the use of his l!nibs, and the muscles were so shrunk that his shoes fell from h\A feet. He con- sented to go forward with such assistance as jould be given him, but no attempts to relieve poor Richmond were successful. It being Tound impossible to make him st'r, after some time had been lost in the attemi>t, Mr. Bunks .f. his other black servant and a soaman, who seemed to have r,' r ; ►- » leant by the cold, to look after him, promising that as sov^. as two others should be sufficiently warmed Ww.y should be relieved. Mr. Banks, with much difiicultr at length , ncor if 'lo had been refreshed, in hopes that, with the assistance oi those who had been left behind, they would be able to brin^ Richmond, even though it should at had appeared to be leaky, I thought it neces- sary to examine her bottom, and, to my great surprise, £ound it so much eaten by the worms, that it was necessary to give her a new one. No such accident had happened to the Dolphin's boats, as I was informed by the officers on board, and therefore it was a mis- fortune that I did not expect. I feared that the pinnace also might bd nearly in the same condition ; but upon examining her, I had the satisfaction to find that not a worm had touched her, though she was built of the same wood, aitd had been as much in the water. The r^^ason of this difference I imagine to be, that the longboat was paid with varnish of pine, and the pinnace painted with white-lead and oil. The bottoms of all boats, therefore, which are sent into this country should be painted like that of the pinnace, and the ships should be supplied with a good stock, in order to give them a new coating when it should be found necessary. Having received repeated messages from Tootaha that, if we would pay him a visit, he would acknowledge the favour by a present of four hogs, I sent Mr. Hicks, my first lieutenant, to try if he could not procure the hogs upon easier terms, with orders to show him every civility in his power. Mr. Hicks found that he was removed from Apparra to a place five miles farther to the westward. He was received with great cordiality ; one hog was immediately produced, and he was told that the other three, which were at some distance, should be brought in the morning. Mr. Hicks readily consented to stay ; but the morning came without the hogs, and, it not being convenient to stay longer, he rrjturued in the evening with the one that he had got CHAPTER IV. OB8ERVATION OF THE TRANSIT OF VENUS— TnANSAOTIONS AND INCIDENTS AT OTAHEITE — CI KCUM NAVIGATION OF THE ISLAND — MB. BANKS's EXPEDITION —DISAPPEARANCE OF TWO MEN. ON the 27tli, myself, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander sec 1769. out in the pinnace to pay Tootaha a visit, wlio had *^* moved from Apparra to the SW. part of the island. "What induced us to make him this visit was a message we had received from him some days ago, importing that if we would go to him he would give us several hogs. We had no great faith in this, yet we were resolved to try, and S(!t out accordingly. It was night before we reached the place where he was, and as wo had left the boat about half-way behind us, we were obliged to take up our quarters with him for the night. The chief received us in a friendly manner, and a pig was ordered to be killed and dressed for supper ; but we saved his life for the present, thinking it would do us more service in another place, and we supped on fruit and what else we could get Here was, along with the chief, Obarea and many more that we knew. They all seemeil to be travellers like ourselves, for neither the canoes they had along with them nor the houses Avhere they were were sufficient to contain the one-half of them. We were in all six of us, and, after supper, began to look out for lodgings. Mr. Banks went to one place. Dr. Solander to another, while I and the other three went to a third. We all of us took as much care of the little we had about us as possible, knowing very well what sort of jxiople we were among j yet, notwithstanding all the care we took, before twelve o'clock most of us had lost something or other. For my own part I had my stockings taken from under my head, and yet I am certain that I was not asleep the whole time. Obarea took charge of Mr. Banks's things, and yet they were stolen from her, as she pretended. Tootaha was acquainted ::| 44 Pl'E VISIT TOOTAHA. [nea. with what had liappened, I believe by Oltarea herself, and both he and she made some stir about it ; but this was all mere show, and ended in nothing. A little time after this Tootaha came to the hut where I and those that were with me lay, and entertained us with a concert of music, consisting of thret .irums, four flutes, and singing. This lasted about an hour, and then they retired. The music and singing was so much of a piece that I was very glad when it was over. We stayed with them till near noon the next day in hopes of gettihg some of our things again, and like- Avise some hogs ; but we w'3re obliged at last to '^ome away with the one we had saved out of the fire last night, and a promise from Tootaha that he would come to the ship in a day or two with more, and bring with him the things that are io: t, a promise we had no reason to expect he would fulfil, lau. ended our visit, and we got to the fort late in the evening. As we were returning to the boat, however, we were entertained with a sight that in some measure compensated for our fatigue and disappointment. In our way we came to one of the few places where access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and con- sequently a high surf breaks upon the shore. A more dreadful one indeed I had seldom seen : it was impossible for any European boat to have lived in it ; and if the best swimmer in Europe had, by any accident, been exposed to its fury, I am confident that he would not have been able to preserve himself from drowning, especially as the shore was covered with pebbles and large stones ; yet in the midst of these breakers were ten or twelve Tndians swimming for their amusement Whenever a surf broke near them, they dived under it, and, to all appearance with infinite facility, rose again on the other side. As the day of observation now approached, I determined, in consequence of some hints which had been given me by Lord Morton, to send out two parties to observe the transit from other situations ; hoping that if we should fail at Otaheite, they might have better success. We were therefore now busily employed in preparing our instruments, and instructing such gentlemen in the use of them as I intended to send out. On Thursday the 1st of June, the Saturday following being the day of the transit, I dispatched Mr. Gore in the longboat to [176a F<« 1. Fig Z. ?. V/: A-'' y /«1, ^ fl^i^ ^^' ^'^ Ccrvci^ > THE TRANSIT OF VENUS. P"s:' «. i i i I 1769.] THE TRANSIT OF VENUS. 45 Itnao, with Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing, a gentleman belong- ing to Mr. Banks, Mr. Green having furnished them with proper instruments. Mr. Banks himself thought fit to go upon this expedition, and several natives, particularly Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio, were also of the party. Very early on the Friday morning I sent Mr. Hicks, with Mr. Clerk and Mr. Petersgill, the master's mates, and Mr. Saunders, one of the midshipmen, in the pinnace to the eastward, with orders to fix on some convenient spot, at a distance from our principal observatory, where they also might employ the instruments with which they had been furnished for the same purpose. The day proved as favourable to our purpose as we could wish. Not a cloud was to be seen the whole day, and the air was per- fectly clear, so that we had every advantage we could desire in observing the whole of the passage of the planet Venus over the sun's disc. We very distinctly saw an atmosphere or dusky shade round the body of the planet, which very much disturbed the times of the contact, particularly the two internal ones. Mr. Green's telescope and mine were of the same magnifying power, but that of the doctor was greater than ours. It was nearly calm tho whole day, and the thermometer exposed to the sun about tho middle of the day rose to a degree of heat we have not before met with. On Sunday the 4th, I punished Archibald Wolf wiln two dozen lasbes for theft, having broken into one of the storerooms and stolen from thence a largo quantity of spike-nails. Some ten of them were found upon him. The same evening, the gentlemen that were sent to observe the transit of Venus returned with success. Those that were sent to York Island were well received by the natives. On tlio r)th, we kept His Majesty's birthday ; for though it is the 4th, we were unwilling to celebrate it during the absence of the two parties who had been sent out to observe the transit We had several of the Indian chiefs at our entertainment, who drank His Majesty's health by the name of Kihiargo, which was the nearest imitation they could produce of King George. On the 12th, complaint lieing made to me by some of the natives that two of the seamen had taken from them several bows in I I I; 1 .it I ! 46 THEFTS BY THE NATIVES. [1T6A, and arrowg and some strings of plaited hair, '"' examined the matter, and finding the charge well supported, I punished each of the criminals with two dozen lashea Their bows and arrows have not been mentioned before, nor were they often brought down to the fort This day, however, Tubourai Tamaide brought down his, in consequence of a challenge which he had received from Mr. Gore. The chief supposed it was to try who could send the arrow farthest; Mr. Gore, who best could hit a mark : and as Mr. Gore did not value himself upon shooting to a great distance, nor the chief upon hitting a mark, there was no trial of skill between them. Tubourai Tamaide, however, to show us what he could do, drew his bow, and sent an arrow, none of which are feathered, two hundred and seventy-four yards, which is something more than a seventh, and something less than a sixth part of a mile. Their manner of shooting is somewhat singular; they kneel down, and the moment the arrow is dis- charged drop the bow. On Wednesday the 14th, between two and four o'clock in the morning, one of the natives stole out of the fort an iron rake made use of for the oven. It happened to bo set up against the wall, and by that means was visible from the outside, and had been seen by them in the evening, as a man had been seen lurking about the fort some hours before the thing was missed. I was informed by some others of the natives that he watched an opportunity when the sentinel's back was turned ; he hooked it with a long crooked stick, and hauled it over the wall. When I came to be informed of this theft in the morning, 1 resolved to recover it by some means or other, and accordingly went and took possession of all the canoes of any value I could meet with, and brought them into the river behind the fort to the number of twenty-two, and told the natives then present (most of them being the owners of the cartoes) that unless the principal things they had stolen from us were restored, I would bum them every one — not that T ever intended to put this in execution. And yet I was very much displeased with them, as they were daily committing, or attempting to commit, one theft or other, when at the same timo • — contrary to the opinion of everybody— T would not sufff-r them to be fired upon, for this would have been putting it in the power ■^ ■^ t al 1 ■■■IIP [1199. 1769.] DISPUTES WITH THE INDIANS. 47 of the sentinels to have fired upon them upon the slightest occasions, as I had before experienced. And I have a great objection to firing with powder amongst people who know not the difference, for by this they would learn to despise firearms and think their own arms superior, and if ever such an opinion pre- vailed they would certainly attack you, the event of which might prove as unfavourable to you as to them. About noon the rake was restored us, when they wanted to have their canoes again; but now, as I had them in my possession, I was resolved to try if they would not redeem them by restoring what they had stolen from us before. The principal things which we had lost were a marine musket, a pair of pistols belonging to Mr. Banks, a sword belonging to one of the petty oflicers, and a water-cask, with some other articles not worth mentioning. Some said that these things were not in the island, others that Tootaha had them, and those of Tootaha's friends laid the whole to Obarea ; and I believe the whole was between these two persons. Thursday, 15th, we employed in overhauling all the sea pro- visions, and stowing such as we found in a state of decay to hand, ill order to be first expended ; but having the people divided between the ship and the shore, this work, as well as refitting the ship, goes on but slowly. Another accident also about this time was, notwithstanding all our caution, very near embroiling us with the Indians. I sent the boat on shore with an officer to get ballast for the ship, and not immediately finding stones convenient for the purpose, he began to pull down some part of an enclosure where they deposited the bonco of their deatL This the Indians violently opposed, and a messenger came down to tljo tents to acquaint the officers that they would not suffer it. Mr. Banks immediately repaired to the place, and an amicable end was soon put to the dispute by sending the Iroat's crow to the river, where stones enough were to be gathered without a possibility of giving offence. It is very re- markable that these Indians appearef us but sh lamb, on vege- little can xcellent They have no beasts of prey of any sort, and wild fowls are scjvce and confined to a few species. When any of the chiefs kill a hog, it seems to be almost equally divided among all his dependants, and as these are generally very numerous, it is but a little that comes to each person's share, so that their chief food is vegetables, and of these they eat a large quantity. Cookery seems to have been but little studied here. They have only two methods of applying fire — broiling and baking, as we called it. The method by which this is done I have before described, and I am of opinion that victuals dressed this way are more juicy and more equally done than by any of our methods, large tinh. in par- ticular, bread-fruit, bananas. Plantains cooked this way eat like boiled potatoes, and were much used by us by way of bread when- ever we could get them. Of bread-fruit they i„ake two or three dishes by beating it with a stone pestle till it makes a paste, mixing water or cocoa-nut liquor, or both, with it, and adding ripe plantains, bananas, sour paste, etc. This last is made from bread-fruit in the following manner. ThJ.. ruit, from what I can find, remains in season only eight or nine months in the year, and as it is the chief support of the iidiabitants, a reserve of food must be made for those months when they are without it. To do this the fruit is gathered when upon the point of ripening ; after the rind is scraped ofl' it is laid in heaps and covered close with leaves, where it undergoes a fer- mentation and becomes soft and disagreeably sweet. The core is taken out, and the rest of the fruit thrown into a hole dug for that puq>ose, the sides and bottom of which are neatly laid with grass. The whole is covered with leaves and heavy stones laid upon them. Here it undergoes a second fermentation and becomes sourish, in which condition, they say, it will keep good ten or twelve montha As they want to use it they make it into balls, which they wrap up in leaves and bake in the same manner as they do the fruit from the tree. It is then ready for eating, either hot or cold, and hath a sour and disagreeable taste. In this last stat« it will keep good a month or six weeka It is called by them moAat, and they seldom make a meal without some of it, one way or another. To this plain diet salt water is the universal sauce. Hardly any one sits down to a meal without a cocoa-nut i THE PEOPLE OF OTAJIE/TE. [1769. shell full of it standing by theui, into which they r|ip most of what they eat, eapocially fiah, drinking at intervals large sops of it out of their hands, so that a man may use half a pint at a meal. With respect to their persons, the men in general are tall, strong limbed, and well shaped. One of the tallest we saw measured six feet three inches and a half. The superior women are in every respect as large as Europeans, but the inferior sort are in general small, owing possibly to their early amours, which they are more addicted to than their superiors. They are of various colours : those of the inferior sort, who ure obliged to be much exposed to the sun and air, are of a very dark brown ; the superiors again, who spend most of their time in their houses under shelter, are not browner than people who arc born or reside long in the West Indies ; nay, some of the women are almost as fair OS Europeans. Their hair is almost universally black, thick, and strong ; this the women wear short crop[)ed round their ears. The men, on the other hand, wear it dillerent ways; the better sort let it grow long, sometimes tying it up on the top of their heads, or letting it hang loose over their shouldors. They have all fine white teeth, and, for the most pai .<, short Hat noses and thick lips ; yet their features are agreeable and their gait graceful, and their behaviour to strangers and to Cf^ "h other is oi)en, aflable, and courteous, and, from all I could see, free from treachery, only that they are thieves to a man, and would steal everything that camo in their way, and that with such dexterity as woulil sliame the most noted pickpocket in Europe. T';oy are very cleanly people both in their persons and diet, always washing their liaiuls and mouth imm(>dialely before and after their meals, and wash or batiie themsolveH in fresh water three times a day, morning, noun, ai«l night. The only disagreeabht thing ribout them is the oil with whicli they anoint their heads, vioiioe, as they call it. This is made of cocoa-nut oil in which some sweet lierlw or flowers are infused. The oil is generally very rancid, which makes the wearer of it smell not vorv agreeable. Another custoiii they li»ve that is disagreeable to Europeans is eating lice, a pretty good st4M-k «)f which thev srenerally carry abouL thflm. Iln—uver, this custom is not universal, for I seldom saw it done but ainuiig children 17M.] THEIR CLOTH L\G. 59 Hiul common people, aud I am persuaded that, had they the means, they would keep themselves as free from lice as we tic ; but the want of .nnbs in a hot climate makes this hardly posHible. Both boxes paint their bodies, tattow, as it is called in their language. This is done by inlaying the colour of black under their skins, in such a manner as to be indelible, Some have ill- designed figures of men, birds, or dogs ; the women generally have this figure 2 simply on every joint of their lingers and toes. Their clothing is either of cloth or matting of several diiierent sorta 'I'he dress of Ijoth men and women is much the same. A piece of cloth or matting wrapped two or three times round their waist hangs down below their knees, both behind and before, like a [tetticoat Through another piece, about two, or two and a half yards long, with a hole in the middle, they put their heads. This hangs over their shoulders, down behind and before, und is tied round their waist with a long piece of thin cloth, and, being open at the sides, gives lilterty to their arms. This is the common dress of all ranks of people, and then! are few without such an one, except the children, who go quite naked, the boys until tJiey are six or seven years of age, and the girls until three or fonr. Both sexes sometimes shade their faces from the sun with Httle bonnets made of cocoa-nut leaves. Some have them of fine niat- ting, but this is loss common. They sometimes wear turbans, but th(tir chief head-dress is what they call tomou, which is human liair plaited scarce thicker than common thread. Of this I can safely aflirm that 1 have seen pieces near a mile in length worked upon one end without a knot. These are made and worn only by the women, five or six such pieces of which they will sometimes wind round their heads, the eifoct of which, if done with taste, is very becoming. They have earrings by way of ornament, but wear Ihcni only at one ear. These are made of shells, stones, berries, red j)ea8, and some small pearls which they wear three tied together ; but our beads, buttons, etc., very soon supplied their places. The houses or dwellings of these people are admirably calcu- lated for the continual warmth of ih(! climate. They do not build tliom in towns or villages, but separate eacli from the other, and always in the woods, and are without walk ; so that the air, cooled by the ahad of the trees, has free access in whatever direction it i I if 1 1 ' 60 THEIR HOUSES AJ^JD CANOES. [1T69. happens to blow. No country can boast of more delightful walks than this. Tlio who^ plains where the natives r»«iile we covered with groves of bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, without underwood, and intersected in all directions by the paths which go from house to housi", so t!*at nothing can be more grateful in a climate where the sun hath .so pt long. These consist of several pieces : the bottom is round and made of Jarrre logs hol- lowed out to the thickneas of about three injhcs, and may co.isist of three or four pieces ; the sides are of plai ik of nearly the same thickness, and are built nearly perpendicular, rounding in a little towards the gunwale. The pieces on which they are built are well fitted, and fastened or sewed together with strong plaiting, something iu the saiTie manner as old china, wooden bowls, etc., are mended. The greatest breadth is at the after part, which is generally about eighteen or twenty inches, and the fore part about one-third narrower. The height from the bottom to the gunwale seldom exceeds two and a half or three feet. They build them with high, curved stcrn.s, which are generally ornamented with carved work ; the head oi' fore part curves little or notliing. Tlu* smaller canoes ore built after the same plan, some out of one, two, or more trees, accoi-ding to their size or the use they are for. In order to prevent them from oversetting when in the water, all those that go single, both great and small, hav« what is oullcd outriggeiti, which are pieces of wood fastened to the ^unvvule and projecting out on one side about six, (>ight, or ten feet, according to the size of the l)oat. At tho ond is fastened in n parallel direc- tion to the canoe a long log of wood simply - or srMne have it shaped in the form of a small boat, but ihiu iu not conmiori ; this [17«». ;htful walks are covered underwood, from house imato where re genorally ted by three x:h made of our feet by ^ight of the tvered some lie mats for )re than one md some of i consist of n;e logs hol- may consist ■iy the same { in a littio re built are ing plaiting, bowls, eta, irt, which is e part about the gunwale build thom nentt'd with ithing. Thd of one, two, are for. In le water, all iiat is culled i,tinvvitl(' and aocording to vial lei diroc- (Miie have it )n)m<>n ; thig Wi i-^vifci- ■■*' 1^ •«^^L- . ii'iiiiMir' r ^ \ ■ ■*^. ■■• r AHL 1 TV. n 1769.] THEIR GOVERNMENT. 6i lies in the water and balances the boat. Those that are for sailing have outriggers only on the other side, abreast of the mast ; these serve to fasten the shrouds to, and are of use in trimming the boat when it blows fresh. The sailing proes have some one, and some two masts. The sails are of matting, and are made narrow at the head and square at the foot, something like a shuulder-of-rautton sail, such as are generally used in man-of-war barges, etc. Having described their canoes, I shall next describe their arms with which they attack their enemies, both by sea and land. These are clubs, spnars or lances, slingij and stones which they throw by hand. The olubs are made of a hard wood, and are about eight or nine feet long. The one half is made Hattish with two edgeas and tlxe other half is round and not thicker than to be easily grasped by the hand. The lances are of various lengths, some from *:weU'e to twenty or thirty feet, and are genr ally armed at the small c 1 with the stings of sting-i"ays, which make them very dangerous weapons. Although these people have bows and arrows — and those none of the wor>*t — we are told that they never use tlioni in their wars, which doubtless is verv extraor- dinary, and not easily accounted for. They have v- ly curious breaatpltt' ,?s, made of small wickers, pieces of mattii g, (>tc., and neatly covered with sharks' teoth, pearl-oyster shells, birds' foathers, and dogs' hair. Thus much for their arms, etc. The island is divided into two districts or kingdoms, ■wbich are frequ(nitly at war with each other, as happened about twelv«» months ago, and each of these is again divided into smaller districts, w/iennuas as they call them. Over each of the king- doms is an enr3 dehi, or head, whom we call a king, and in tk« %nhenn}uxa are ♦•«?•««, or chiefs. The king'^ power sooms to be but very little. Ho mny be reverenced as a father, lut ho is noitlior feared nor res^iocti I as a monarch, and the sauje n)ay bo s*id of the ockfT chiefs. However, they have a pre-omint nee over the r«il flfthe people, who pay them a kind of a voluntary obedience. T~pon the Avhoh', those people seem to enjoy liberty in its fullest extent. Every man seems to hf the sole jtidgo of his own actions, and to know no punisluuent but death, and this, perhaps, is never intliv-'ted but upoTi a public enemy. There are thre« ranks of men 6a THEIR RELIGION. [1T69. I i and women : first, the tares, or chiefs ; second, the manaJiooTuis, or middling sort ; and, lastly, the toutoits, which comprehend all the lower class, and are by far the most numerous. These seem to live, in some sort dependent on the earea, who, together vfi\ h the mana/ioonas, own most, if not all the land. This is heredi- tary in their families, and the moment the heir is bom he succeeds the father both in title and estate ; at least to the name, for it is most likely that the latter must have the power during his son or daughter's minority. Having given the best account I can of the manners and cus- toms of these people, it will be ex|)ected that I should give some account of their religion, which is a thing I have learned so little of that I hardly dar^ to touch upon it, and should have passed it over in silence, were it nou my duty as well as inclination to insert in this journal all the knowledge I may obtain of a people who for many centuries have been shut up from almost every other part of the world. They believe that there is one supreme god, whom they call Tane. From him sprung a number of inferior deities, eatnas as they call them : these they think preside over them and inter- meddle in their affairs. To these they offer oblations such as hogs, dogs, fish, fruit, etc., and invoke them on some particular occa- sions, as in time of real or apparent danger, the setting out of a long voyage, sickuosses, etc. ; but the ceremony made use of on these occasions I know not. The movies, which wo at first thought were burying places, are wholly built for places of worship and for the performing of religious ceremonies in. The viands are laid upon altars erected eight or twelve feet high by stout posts, and the table of the altar on which the viands lie is generally made of i»alm leaves ; they are not always in the moriea, but very often at some distance from them. Their mories, as well as the tombs of the dead, they seem to hold sacred, and the women never enter the former, whatever they may do the latter. The viands laid near the tombs of the dead are not for the deceased, but as an oflToring to the eatua made upon that occasion, who, if not, would destroy the body and not accept the soul ; for they believe in a future state of rmvanls and punishuieutH, but what their ideas are of it 1 know not. m9.] VALUE OF THE DISCOVERY OF OTAHEITE. 63 TLey compute time by the moon, which they call malama, reckoning thirty days to each moon, during two of which they goy the moon is mattee, that is, dead, and this is at the time of the new moon, when she cannot be seen. The day they divide into smaller portions, not less than two houra Their computation is by units, tons, and scores, up to ten score, or two hundred, etc. In count- ing they generally take hold on their 6ngers one by one, shifting from one hand to the other until they come to the number they want to express; but if it be a high number, instead of their fingers, they use pieces of leaves, etc. In conversation one with another they frequently join signs to their words, in which they ore so expressive that a stranger will very soon comprehend their meaning by their actions. Having now done with the people, I must once more return to the island before I quit it altogether, whicli, notwithstanding nature hath been so very bountiful to it, rloos not produce any one thing of intrinsic value or that can be converted into an article of trade ; so that the value of the discovery consists wholly in the refreshments it will always afford to shipping passing through those seas, and in this it may be greatly improved by transporting hither horned cattle, etc. Pumpkins have got quite a footing hei*e, the seeds of which, most probably, were brought here by the Spaniards. We sowetl the seeds of water and musk melons, which grew up and throve very fast. We also gave these seeds and the seeds of pine apples to several of the natives, and it cannot be doubted that they will thrive here and will bo a great addition to the fruits they already have. Upon our first arrival we sowed all sorts of EnglLsh garden seeds and grain, but not a single thing came up except mustard salad ; but this, I know, w^as not owing either to the soil or climate, but to the badness of the seeds, whirli were spoiled by ♦he length of the passage. Although this island lies within the Tropic of Capricorn, yet the heat is not troublesome, nor do the winds blow constantly from tlio east, but are subject to variations, frequently blowing a fresh gain from the south-west quarter for two or three days together, but \( ry s((l(loni from the north-west. Whenever those variable MMnds liiqipen, they are always accompanied with a swell from tlu- 3W, #'» 64 PASSAGE TO NEIGHBOURING ISLANDS. [1769; or WSW., and the same thing happens whenever it is calm and the atmosphere at the same time loaded with clouds — sure indica- tion that the winds are variable or westerly out at sea, for clear weather generally attends the settled trade. After parting with our friends, we made an easy sail, with gentle breezes and clear weather, and were informed by Tupia that four of the neighbouring islands, which he distinguished by the names of Huaheine, Ulietca, Otaha, and Bolabola, lay at the distance of between one and two days' sail from Otaheite, and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, with which we had of late been but sparingly supplied, were there to be procured in great phmty ; but having discovered from the hills of Otaheite an island lying to the northward, which he called Tethuroa, I determined first to stand that way, to take a nearer view of it. It lies N. ^ W. distant eight leagues from the northern extremity of Otaheite, upon which we had observed the transit, and to which we had, for that reason, given the name of Point Venus. We found it to be a small, low island, and were told by Tupia that it had no settled inhabitants, but was occasionally visited by the inhabitants of Otaheite, who sometimes went thither for a few days to fish ; we therefore determined to spend no more time in a further examina- tion of it, but to go in search of Huaheine and Ulietea, which he described to be well peopled, and as large as Otaheite. On the 16th, being close in with the nort,h-west part of the island of Huaheine, we sounded, but had no ground with eighty fathoms. Some of the natives came off to the ship, but they were very shy of coming near until they discovered Tupia ; but after that they came on board without hesitation. Among those who came on board was the king of the island. He had not l)een long on board before I was given to understand that his name was Oree, and he proposed, as a mark of amity, that we should exchange names. To this I readily cun.sented ; and he was Cookee — for so he pronounced my name — and I was Oree for the rest of the time we were together. We found these people to be very nearly the same with those of Otaheite, in person, dress, langua.s;e, and every other circumstance, except, if Tupia might be beUoveil, that they would not steal. ITW.] ARRIVAL AT HUAHEIhE. 65 Soon after dinner we came to an anchor in a suiall but oxcellont harbour on the west side of the island, which t)ie nativea call Owharre, in eighteen fathoms water, clear ground, and secure from all winda I went immediately ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhouse, Tupia, King Cookee, and some other of the natives who hatl been on board ever since the morning. Tupia at once sat down before a great number of the natives that were collected together in a largo shed or liouse, the rest of us, by his own desire, standing behind ; ho then began a long speech or prayer, which lasted near a quarter of an hour, and in the course of this speech presented to the people two handkerchiefs, a black silk neckcloth, some beads, and two very small bunches of feathers. These things he had before provided for that purpose. At the same time two chiefs spoke on the other side in answer to Tupia, as I suppose, in behalf of the people, and presented us with some young plantain plants, and two small bunches of feathers. These were by Tupia ordered to be carried on board the ship. After the peace was thus concludetl and ratified, every one was at liberty to go where he pleased, and the first thing Tupia did was to go and pay his oblations at one of the mories. This seemed to be a common ceremony \vith this people, and I suppose always performed upon landing on each other's territories in a peaceable manner. It further appeared that the things which Tupia gave away were for the god of this people, as they gave us a hog and some cocoa-nuts for our God, and thus they have certainly drawn us in to commit sacrilege, for the hog hath already received sentence of death, and is to be dissected to-morrow. We had commenced a kind of trade with the natives, but it went on slowly ; for when anything was offered, not one of them would take it upon his own judgment, but collected the opinions of twenty or thirty people, which could not be done without great loss of time. We got, however, eleven pigs, and determined to try for more the next day. The next day we brought out some hatchets, for which we hoped we should have had no occasion upon an island which no European had ever visited before. These procured us three very large hogs j and as we proposed to sail in the afternoon, King Oree and several others came on board to take their leave. To the king I gave a (S6I) o IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ i5C ■ 56 lavs tu in |M M 6 1^ IM 12.2 2.0 1.8 U III 1.6 6" Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ :1>^ i c\ \ •^ % .V ^l ^4^ > O^ '^^ %Jn J. V €£>.. , however, ! alongside, tlioy chose, >misef5, itnd en ord(,'red ;eptionablo ther make 1769.] FRIENDLY RELATIONS ESTABLISHED. 77 them surrender or leap into the water. Upon the discharge of the piece they ceased paddling, and all of them, being seven in number, began to strip, as we imagined to jump overboard ; but it liappened otherwise. They immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight ; and when the boat came up they began the attack with their paddles, and with stones and other offensive weapons that were in the boat, so vigorously that we were obliged to fire upon them in our own defence. Four were unhappily killed, and the other three, who were boys, the eldest about nineteen and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water. The eldest swam with great vigour and resisted the attempts of our people to take him into the boat by every effort that he could make ; he was, however, at last overpowered, and the other two were taken up with less difficulty. As soon as the poor wretches whom we had. taken out of the water were in the boat, they squatted down, expecting, no doubt, instantly to be put to death. We made haste to convince them to the contrary by every method in our power ; we furnished them with clothes, and gave them every other testimony of kindness that could remove their fsars. Before we reached the ship, their suspicions and fears being wholly removed, they appeared to be not only reconciled to their situation, but in high spirits, and upon being offered some bread when they came on board, they deyoured it with a voracious appetite. They answered and asked many questions with great appearance of pleasure and curiosity ; and when our dinner came, they expressed an inclination to taste everything that thuy saw. They seemed best pleased with the salt pork, tliough we had other provisions upon the table. At sunset they ate another meal with great eagerness, each devouring a large quantity of bread and drinking above a quart of water. We then made them beds upon the lockers, and they went tc sleep with great seeming content. In the night, however, the tumult of their minds having subsided and given way to reflection, they sighed often and loud. Tupia, who was always upon the watch to comfort them, got up, and by soothing and encouragement made them not only easy but cheerful. Their cheerfulness was encouraged so that they sung a song with a degree of taste that surprised us ; the tune was solemn and slow, like those of our psalms, containing 78 THREATENING ATTITUDE OF INDIANS. [1T69, many notes and semitones. Their countenances were intelligent and expressive, and the middlemost, who seemed to be about fifteen, had an openness in his aspect and an ease in his deportment which were very striking. We found that the two eldest were brothers, and that their names were Taahourange and Koikerange ; the name of the youiigest was Maragovete. As we were returning to the ship, after having taken these boys into the boat, we picked up a large piece of pumice stone floating upon the water — a sure sign that there either is or has been a volcano in this neighbourhood. In the morning they seemed to be cheerful, and ate another enormous meal. We adorned them with bracelets, anklets, and necklaces, after their ov/n fashion ; and the boat being hoisted out, they were told that we were going to set them ashore. This produced a transport of joy ; but upon perceiving that we made towards our first landing place near the river, their countenances changed, and they entreated with great earnestness that they might not be set ashore at that place, because they said it was inhabited by their enemies, who would kill them and eat them. Upon our landing with the boys and crossing the river, they seemed at first to be unwilling to leave us ; but at length, with some tears, they took their leave. After we had advanced about a mile we heard that a large body of the Indians was in sight, and advancing at a great rate. Upon receiving this intelligence we drew together, and resolved to make the best of our way to the boats. We had scarcely begun to put this into execution when the three Indian boys started sudienly from some bushes where they had concealed themselves, and again claimed our protection. We readily received them, and repairing to the beach as the clearest place, we walked briskly towards the boats. The Indians Avore in two bodies; one ran along the bank which had been quitted by the marines, the other fetched a compass by the swamp, so that we could not see them. When they perceived that we liad formed into one body, they slackened their pace, but still followed us in a gentle walk. That they slackened their pace was for us, as well as for them, a for- tunate circumstance ; for when wo came to the side of the river where we expected to find the boats that were to carry us over to the wooders, we found the pinnace at least a mile from her station, !AXS. [17«», 1769,] AN EMBLEM OF PEACE. 79 ere intelligent to be about lis deportment eldest were 1 Koikerange ; ivere returning oat, we picked water — a sure leighbourhood. d ate another , anklets, and being hoisted ashore. This that we made countenances ess that they sy said it was 1 eat them, he river, they t length, with I that a large t a great rate, nd resolved to icarcely begun boys started d themselves, ^ed them, and alked briskly lies ; one ran nes, the other not see them, le body, they walk. That them, a for- of the river ■ry us over to n her station, having been sent to pick up a bird which had been shot by the officer on shore ; and the little boat was obliged to make three trips before we could all get over to the rest of the party. As soon as we were drawn uxi on the other side, the Indians came down, not in a body as we e.^rpected, but by two or three at a time, all armed ; and in a short time their number increased to about two hundred. As we now despaired of making peace with them, seeing that the dread of our small-arms did not keep them at a distance, and that the ship was too far off to reach the place with a shot, we resolved to re-embark, lest our stay should embroil us in another quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. We therefore advanced towards the pinnace, which was now returning, when one of the boys suddenly cried out that his uncle was among the people who had marched down to us, and desired us to stay and talk with them. We complied, and a parley immediately com- menced between them and Tupia, during which the boys held up everything that we had given them as tokens of our kindness and liberality. At last one of the men, uncle of one of the boys, swam over to us, bringing in his hand a green branch, which we supposed, as well here as at Otaheite, to be an emblem of peace. We received his branch by the hands of Tupia, and made him many presents; we also invited him to go on board the ship, but he declined. We therefore left him, and expected that his nephew and the two other young Indians would have stayed with him ; but to our great surprise, they chose rather to go with us. After dinner, I directed Tupia to ask the boys if thoy had now any objection to going ashore where we had left their uncle. Tiiey said they had not ; and the boat being ordered, they went into it with great alacrity. When the boat, in which I had sent two midshipmen, came to land, they went willingly ashore ; but soon after she put off they returned to the rocks, and wading into the water, earnestly entreated to be taken on board again ; but the people in the boat, having positive orders to leave them, could not comply. We were very attentive to what happened on shore ; and keeping a constant watch with our glasses, we saw a man pass the river upon another raft, and fetch them to a place where forty or fifty of the natives were assembled, who closed round them, and iontinued in the same place till sunset. Upon looking agai, , 8o DESCRIPTION OF POVERTY BAY. [1769. when we saw them in motion, we could plainly distinguish our three prisoners, who separated themselves from the rest, came down to the beach, and having waved their hands three times towards the ship, ran nimbly back and joined their companions, who walked leisurely away towards that part which the boys had pointed to as their dwelling-place. We had therefore the greatest reason to believe that no mischief would happen to them, especially as we perceived that they went off in the clothes we had given them. After it was dark, loud voices were heard on shore in the bottom of the bay as usual, of which we could never learn the At 6 an. we weighed and stood out of the bay, which I have named Poverty Bay, because it afforded us no one thing we wanted (lat. 38° 42' S., long. 181° 36' W.). It is in the form of a horse- shoe, and is known by an island lying close under the north-east point. The two points which form the entrance are high, with steep white cliffs, and lay a league and a half or two leagues from each other. The depth of water in this bay is from twelve to six and five fathoms, a sandy bottom and good anchorage, but you lie open to the winds between the S. and E. Boats can go in and out of the river above mentioned at any time of tide in fine weather; but there is a bar at the entrance, on which the sea sometimes runs so high that no boat can either get in or out, which happened while we lay here. However, I believe that boats can generally land on the north-east side of the river. The shore of this bay, from a little within each entrance, is a low, flat sand ; but this is only a narrow slip, for the face of the country appears with a variety of hills and valleys, all clothed with woods and verdure, and to all appearance well inhabited, especially in the valleys leading up from the bay, where we daily saw smoke at a great distance inland j and far back in the country are very high mountains. At noon the south-west point of Poverty Bay, which I have named Young Nick's Head (after the boy who first saw tiiis land), bore N. by W., distance three or four leagues, being at this time about three miles from the shore, and had twenty-five fathoms water, the mainland extending fi-om NE. by N. to S. My inten- tion is to follow the direction of the coast to the southward as far £. v. [1769, 1769,] DISTRESS OF THE INDIANS. 8i listinguish our the rest, came ds three times ir companions, the boys had re the greatest hem, especially we had given shore in the iver learn the which I have ing we wanted ni of a horse- fche north-east ire high, with ) leagues from twelve to six rage, but you can go in and ' tide in fine vhich the sea :et in or out, believe that river. The is a low, flat ' the country d with woods lecially in the aw smoke at are very high y Bay, which first saw this being at this -five fathoms My inten- hward as far as the latitude of 40° or 41°, and then to return to the northward in case we meet with nothing to encourage us to proceed farther. In the afternoon wo lay becalmed, which the people on shore perceiving, several canoes put off', and came within less than a quarter of a mile of the vessel, but could not be persuaded to come nearer, though Tupia exerted all the jiowers of his lungs and his eloquence upon the occasion, shouting, and promising that they should not be hurt. Another canoe was now seen coming from Poverty Bay, with only four people on board, one of whom we well remembered to have seen in our first interview upon the rock. This canoe, without stopping or taking the least notice of the others, came directly alongside of the ship, and with very little persuasion we got the Indians on board. Their example was soon followed by the rest, and we had about us seven canoes, and about fifty men. We made them all presents with a liberal hand ; not- withstanding which, they were so desirous to have more of our commodities, that they sold us everything they had, even the clothes from their backs, and the paddles from their boats. When these people had recovered from the first impressions of fear — which, notwithstanding their resolution in coming on board, had manifestly thrown them into some confusion — we inquired after our poor boys. The man who first came on board immediately answered that they were unhurt and at home ; adding that he had been induced to venture on board by the account which they had given him of the kindness with which they had been treated, and the wonders that were in the ship. A light breeze springing up soon after it was dark, we steered along the shore under an easy sail till midnight, and then brought to, soon after which it fell calm. We were now some leagues distant from the place where the canoes had left us ; and at daybreak, when the Indians perceived it, they were seized with consternation and terror, and lamented their situation in loud complaints, with gestures of despair and many tears. Tupia with great difficulty pacified them; and about seven o'clock in the morning, a light breeze springing up, we continued to stand south- west along the shore. Fortunately for our poor Indians, two canoes came off" about this time, and made towards the ship. They stopped, however, at a little distance, and seemed unwilling (561) g 8a IN SEARCH OF A HARBOUR. [1760. if £; to trust themselves nearer. Our Indians were greatly agitated in this state of uncertainty, and urged their fellows to come alongside of the ship both by their voice and gestures with the utmost eagerness and impatieme. Tupia interpreted what they said, and we were much surprised to find that, among other arguments, they assured the people in the canoes we did not eat men. Wo now began seriously to believe that this horrid custom prevailed among them ; for Avhat the boys haa said we considered as a mere hyperbolical expression of their fear. One of the canoes at length ventured to come under the ship's side ; and an old man came on board, who seemed to be a chief, from the finery of liis garment, and the superiority of his weapon, which was a patoo-patoo, made of bone that, as he said, had belonged to a whale. He stayed on board but a short time, and when he went away ho took with him our guests, very much to the satisfaction both of them and us. On Wednesday the 11th we passed a point which, on account of its figure, I called Cape Table. This point lies seven leagues to the southward of Poverty Bay. It is of a considerable height, and appears to be quite flat at the top. At noon a small island, which was the southernmost land in sight, appeared at the distance of about three miles. This island, wliich the natives call Teahowray, I named the island of Port- land, from its very great resemblance to Portland in the English Channel. In the evening we stood in for a place that had the appearance of an opening, but found no harbour. Wo therefore stood out again, and were soon followed by a large canoe, with eighteen or twenty men, all armed, who, though they could not reach us, shouted defiance, and brandished their weapons with many gestures of menace and insult. In the morning we had a view of the mountains inland, upon which the snow was still lying. The country near the shore was low and un^t for culture, but in one place we perceived a patch of something yellow, which had greatly the appearance of a corn- field, yet was probably nothing more than some dead flags, which are not uncommon in swampy places. At some distance we saw groves of trees, which appeared high and tapering ; and being not above two leagues from the great bay in which we .ijfrt [1769. tly agitated in come alongside h the utmost they said, and •gumenta, they icn. Wo now evailed among as a mere noes at length man came on his garment, )o-patoo, made Ho stayed on took with him m and us. jh, on account ven leagues to lie height, and iimost land in This island, iland of Port- ti the English 1769.] ATTITUDE OF THE NATIVES. 83 had been coasting for the two last days, I hoisted out the pinnace and longboat to search for fresh water. But just as they were about to put off, we saw several boats full of people coming from the shore, and therefore I did not think it safe for them to leave the ship. About ten o'clock, five of these boats having drawn together as if to hold a consultxition, made towards the ship, having on board between eighty and ninety men ; and four more followed at some distance, as if to sustain the attack. When the first five came within about a hunched yards of the ship, they began to sing their war song, and brandishing their pikes, prepared for an engagement. We had now no time to lose, for if we could not prevent the attack, we should come under the unhappy necessity of using our firearms against them, which we were very desirous to avoid. Tupia was therefore ordered to acquaint them tiiat wo had weapons which, like thunder, would destroy them in a moment ; and they soon paddled away with all their might. The land neni- the shore is of a moderate height, with white cliffs and sand , ueaches. Ijdand are several jjretty high moun- tains, and the Avhole face of the country appears with a very hilly surface, and for the most part covered with snow ; but between them and the sea the land is clothed with wood. he appearance "ore stood out h eighteen or not reach us, many gestures inland, upon the shore was 3ived a patch ice of a corn- i flags, which distance we ipering ; and in which we CHAPTER VII. THE RANGE FROM POVEUTY BAT TO CAPE TUBSAGAIN, AND BACK TO TOLAGO, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OP THE PEOPLE AND THE COUNTRY. 1769. October. A^ T 8 a.m. on the 15th, being abreast of the south-west point of the bay, some fishing-boats came off to us, and sold us some stinking fish. However, it was such as thty had, and we were glad to enter into traffic with them upon any terms. These people behaved at first very well, until a large ai-med boat, wherein were twenty-two men, came alongside. We soon saw that this boat had nothing for traffic, yet, as they came boldly alongside, we gave them two or three pieces of cloth, articles they seemed the most fond of. One man in this boat had on him a black skin, something like a bear-skin, which I was desirous of having, that I might be a better judge what sort of an animal the first owner was. I offered him for it a piece of red cloth, which he seemed to jump at by immediately putting off the skin and holding it up to us ; but he would not part with it until he had the cloth in his pos- session, and after that not at all, but jiiit off the boat and went away, and with him all the rest. But in a very short time they returned again, and one of the fishing-boats came alongside and offered us some more fish. The Indian boy, Tiata, Tupia's servant, being over the side, they seized hold of him, pulled him into the boat, and endeavoured to carry him off This obliged us to fire upon them, which gave the boy an opportunity to jump overboard. We brought the ship to, lowered a boat into the water, and took him up unhurt Two or three paid for this daring attempt with the loss of their lives, and many more would have suffered had it not been for fear of killing the boy. Tliis affair occasioned my giving this point of land the name of Cape Kidnappers. It is remarkable on account of two white rocks in form of haystacks 1769.] COASTING DOWN THE NORTH ISLAND. 85 :k to tolago, TRY. lie south-west me off to us, a3 thty had, )n any terms. armed boat, soon saw that lly alongside, they seemed a black skin, having, that e first owner he seemed to ding it up to th in his pos- )at and went irt time they longside and pia's servant, lim into the 3d us to fire p overboard, ter, and took ittempt with Rered had it casioned my ppers. It is af haystacks standing very near it. On each side of the cape are tolerably high white, steep cliffs, lat. 39^ 43' S., long. 182" 24' W. It lies S\V. by W., distant thirteen leagues from the island of Portland. Between them is a large bay wherein we have been for these three days past. This bay I have named Hawke'a Bay in honour of Sir Edward, First Lord of the Admiralty. We found in it from twenty-four to eight and seven fathoms, everywhere good anchoring. In the afternoon we had a fresh breeze at west, and during the night variable light airs and calms. In the morning a gentle breeze sprang up between the N\V. and NE., and having till now stood to the southward without seeing any probability of meeting with a harbour, and the country manifestly altering for the worse, I thouffht that standing farther in that direction would be attended with no advantage, but on the contrary would be a loss of time that might be employed with a better prospect of success in exam- ining the coast to the northward. About one, therefore, in the ifternoon I tacked and stood north, with a fresh breeze at west. The high bluff head, with yellowish cliffs, which we were abreast of at noon, I called Cape Turnagain, because here we turned back. It lies in lat. 40° 34' S., long 182° 55' W.,. distant eighteen leagues SSW. and SSW.iW. from Cape Kidnapper. The land between them is of a very unequal height. In some places it is lofty next the sea, with white cliffs ; in others low, with sandy beaches. The face of the country is not so well clothed with wood as it is about Hawke's Bay, but looks more like our high downs in England. It is, however, to all appearance well inhabited, for as we stood along the shore we saw several villages, not only in the valleys, but on the tops and sides of the hills, and smoke in many other places. The ridge of mountains which has been mentioned before extends to the southward farther than we could see, and was then everywhere chequered with snow. At night we saw two firos inland, so very large that we concluded they must have been made to clear the land for tillage ; but, how- ever that be, they are a demonstration that the part of the country where they appeared is inhabited. Soon after wc tacked, a boat or canoe came off from the shore, wherein were five people. They came on board without showing the least signs of fear, and insisted upon staying with us the whole 86 CAPE TABLE. [1769. night. Tndeecl, there was no getting thorn away without turning them out of the ship by force, and that I did not care to do ; but, to prevent them i)laying us any trick, I hoisted their canoe up alongside. Two appeared to be chiefs, and the other three their servants. One of the cliiefs seemed to be of a free, open, and gentle disposition. They both took great notice of everything they saw, and were very thankful for what was given them. The two chiefs would neither eat nor drink with us, but the other three ate whatever was offered them. Notwithstanding that these people had heard of the treatment the others had met with who had been on board before, yet it appeared a little strange that they should place so much confidence in us as to put themselves wholly in our power whether wo would or not, especially as the others we had met with in this bay had upon every occasion behaved in quite a different manner. At eleven, brought to until daylight (the night being dark and rainy), then made sail. At 7 a.m. brought to under Cape Table, and ,ient away the Indian canoe. At this time some others were putting off from the shore ; but we did not wait their coming, but made sail to the northward. 3 p.m., passed by a remarkable head, which I called Gable-end Foreland, on account of the very great resemblance the white cliff at the very point has to the gable-end of a house. It is made still more remarkable by a spired rock standing a little distance from it. It lies from Cape Table N, 24 E., distant about twelve leagues. The shore between them forms a bay, within which lies Poverty Bay, at the distance of four leagues from the headland and eight from the cape. At this place three canoes came off to us, and one man came on board. We gave him some trifles, and he soon returned to his boat, which, with all the rest, dropped astern. In the morning I made sail inshore, in order to look into two bays which appeared about two leagues to the northward of the foreland. The southernmost I could not fetch, but I anchored in the other about eleven o'clock. Into this bay we were invited by the people on board many canoes, who pointed to a place where they said there was plenty of fresh water. I did not find so good a shelter from the sea as I expected ; but the natives who came about us appearing to be [1769. 1769.] EXPRESSIONS OF FRIENDSHIP. 87 out turning to do ; but, ir canoe up three tlioir , open, and everytliing them. The t the other g that these et witli who itrango tliat ; tliemsolves lially as the 'ry occasion ight to until le sail. At the Indian n the shore ; \s northward, d Gable-end le white cliff It is made ttle distance bout twelve n which lies le headland came off to trifles, and >st, dropped ok into two ward of the inchored in )oard many was plenty 1 the sea as aring to be of a friendly disposition, I was determined to try whether I could not get some knowledge of the country here before I proceeded farther to the northward. In one of the canoes that came about us as soon as we anchored we saw two men who by their habits appeared to be chiefs. One of them was dressed in a jacket which was ornamented, after their manner, with dog's skin. The jacket of the other was almost covered with small tufts of red feathers. Tliese men I invited on board, and they entered the ship with very little hesitation. I gave each of them about four yards of linen and a spike-nail. With the linen they were much pleased, but seemed to set no value upon the nail. We perceived that they knew what had hajjpened in Poverty Bay, and we had therefore no reason to doubt that they would behave peaceably. However, for further security, Tupia was ordered to tell them for what purpose we came thither, and to assure them that we Avould offer them no injury if they offered none to us. In the meantime those who remained in the canoes traded with our people very fairly for what they hap- pened to have with them. The chiefs, who were old men, stayed with us till we had dined, and about two o'clock I put off with the boats, manned and armed, in order to go on shore in search of water, and the two chiefs went into the boat Avith me. The after- noon was tempestuous, with much rain, and the surf everywhere ran so high that although we I'owod almost round the bay, we found no place Avhere we could land. I determined, therefore, to return to the ship, which being intimated to the chiefs, they called to the people on shore, and ordered a canoe to be sent off for themselves. This was accordingly done, and they left us, promising to come on board again in the morning, and bring us some fish and sweet potatoes. In the evening, the weather having become fair and moderate, the boats were again ordered out, and I landed, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We were received with great expressions of friendship by the natives, who behaved with a scrupulous attention not to give offence. In particular, they took care not to appear in great bodies. One family, or the inhabitants of two or three houses only, were generally placed together, to the number of fifteen or twenty, consisting of men, women, and chil- T 88 DIFFICULTY IN GETTING IVATFA'. [1769. dreii. These little companies sat upon the ground, not advaitcing towards us, but inviting us to them by a kind of beckon, moving one hand towards the breast. We made them several little pres- ents, and in our walk round the bay found two small streams of fresh water. This convenience and the friendly behaviour of the people determined me to stay some time at least. The women were plain, and made themselves more so by painting their faces with red ochre and oil, which, being generally fresh and wet upon their cheeks and foreheads, was easily transferred to the noses of those who thought fit to sain them ; and that they were not wholly averse to such famili, y, the noses of several of our people strongly testitied. The faces of the men were not so generally painted, yet we saw one whose whole body, and even his garments, were rubbed over with dry ochre, of which he kept a i)iece constantly in his hand, and was every minute renewing the decoration in one part or another where he supposed it was become deficient In per- sonal delicacy they were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, for the coldness of the climate did not invite them so often to bathe. As I found it exceedingly difficult to get water on board on account of the surf, I determined to stay no longer at this jjlace. On the next morning, therefore, about five o'clock, I weighed anchor and put to sea This bay, which is called by the natives Tegadoo, lies in the latitude of 38° 10' S., but as it has nothing to recommend it, a description of it is unnecessary. From this bay I intended to stand on to the northward, but the wind being right against me, I could make no way. While I was beating about to windward, some of the natives came on board, and told me that in a bay which lay a little to the south- ward, being the same that I could not fetch the day I put into Tegadoo, there was excellent water, where the boats might land without a surf. I thought it better, therefore, to put into this bay, where I might complete ray water and form further connec- tions with the Indians, than to keep the sea. With this view, I bore up for it, and sent in two boats, manned and armed, to examine the watering place. The report of the Indians '^ [1769. ot advancing kon, moving 1 little pres- 1 streams of iviour of the Tlie women luting their fresh and transferred ; and that le noses of ited, yet we vere rubbed antly in his in one part i(. In per- it Otaheite, so often to •n board on i this i>lace. T weighed lies in the iraend it, a hward, but ly. While !S came on the south- I put into night land t into this er connec- this view, id armed, e Indians 1769.J nV rOLAGO BAY. 89 being confirmed, I came to an anchor about one o'clock in eleven futhoms water, with a fine sandy bottom, the north point of the bay N. by E., and the south point SE. The watering place, which was in a small cove a little within the south point of the bay, bore S. by E., distant about a mile. Many canoes came immediately off from the shore, and all traded very honestly for Otaheite cloth and glass bottles, of which they weio inmioderately fond. In the afternoon of tht in good 1769.] FROM TOLAGO BAY TO EAST CAPE. 9» order, and many of them are fenced in with low paling which can only serve for ornament. On Monday the 30th, about half an hour after one o'clock, having made sail again to the northward for about ten hours with a light breeze, I hauled round a ,s/iiall island which lay east one mile from the north-east point of the land. From this place I found the land trend away NW. by "W. and WNW. as far as I could see, this point being the easternmost land on the whole coast. I gave it the name of East Cape, and I called the island that lies off it East Island. It is of a small circuit, high and round, and appears white and barren. The cape is high, with white cliffs, and lies in lat. 37° 42' 30" S. and long. 181° W. The land from Tolago Bay to East Cape is of a moderate but unequal height, forming several small bays, in which are sandy beaches. Of the inland country we could not see much, the weather being cloudy and hazy. The soundings were from twenty to tiiirty fathoms at thf^ distance of about a league from the shore. After we had rounded the cape, we saw in our run along the shore a great num- ber of villages and much cultivated land. The country in general appeared more fertile than before, and was low near the sea, but hilly within. At six in the evening, being four leagues to the westward of East Cape, we passed a bay, which was first discovered by Lieutenant Hicks, and which therefore I called Hicks' Bay. At eight in the eveniijg, being eight leagues to the westAvard of the cape, and three or four miles from the shore, I shortened sail and brought to for the night, having at this time a fresh gale at SSE, and squally; but it soon became moderate, and at two in the morning we made sail again to the SW. as the land now trended, and at eight '^'olock in the morning saw land, which made like an island, bearing west, the south-westernmost part of the main bearing south-west. At nine, five caiiors came off to us, in one of which were up- wards of forty men, all armed with pikes, cio. From this and other circumstances it fully appeared that they came with no friendly intentions, and I at this time being very busy, and having no inclination to stay upon dec.k to watch their motions, I ordered a grape shot to be fired a little wide of them. This made them pull off a little, and then they got together either to consult what 92 TRALING WITH THE INDIANS. [1769. Nov. to do 01' to look about tliotn. Upon this I ordered a round shot to be fired over their heads, which frightened them to that degree that I believe they did not think themselves safe until they got ashore. This occasioned our calling the point of land off which tliis happened Cape Runaway. In this day's run we found that the land which made like an island in the morning, bearing west, was so, and we gave it the name of White Island. At daybreak on the 1st of November we counted no less than five and forty canoes that were coming from the shore towards the ship. Seven of them came up with us, and after some conversation with Tupia, sold us some lobsters and mussels, and two conger eels. These people traded pretty fairly ; but when they were gone, some others came from another place, who began also to trade fairly ; but after some time they took what was handed down to them, without making any return. One of them who had done so, upon being threatened, began to laugh, and with many marks of derision set us at defiance, at the same time putting off" the cance f; om the sliip. A musket was then fired over his head, which brought him back in a more serious mood, and trade went on with great regularity. At length, when the cabin and gun-room had got as much as they wanted, the men were allowed to come to the gangway and trade for themselves. Unhappily, the same c /e was not taken to prevent frauds as had been taken before, so that the Indians, finding that they could cheat with impunity, grew insolent again, and proceeded to take greater liberties. One of the canoes, having sold everything on board, pulled forward, and the people that were in her seeing some linen hanging over the ship's side to dry, one of them, without any ceremony, untied it, and put it up in his bundle. He was immediately called to, and required to return it; instead of which, he let his canoe drop astern, and laughed at us. A musket was fired over his head, which did not put a stop to his mirth ; another was then fired at him with small shot, which struck him upon the back. He shrunk a little when the shot hit liim, but did not regard it more than one of our men would have done the stroke of a rattan : he con- tinued with great composure to pack up tlio linen that he had stolen. All the canoes now dropped astern about a hundred li = mm [1769. round shot that degree ntil they got nd off which found that rearing west, we counted coming from with us, and lobsters and )retty fairly ; lother place, le they took i-eturn. One ;an to laugli, at the same as then fired jrious mood, th, when the ed, the men ' themselves, 'auds as had i they could ded to take 3ard, pulled len hanging y ceremony, iatoly called t his canoe er his head, len fired at Ho .shrunk mori! than m : ho con- liat he had a hundred 1769.] THEIR DEFIANCE. 93 yards, and all set up their song of defiance, which they continued till the ship was distant from them about four hundred yards. About two in the afternoon, we saw a pretty high island bear- ing west from us. We learned from ""'upia that the people in the canoe called the island which we were under INIowtohora. It Is but of a small circuit, though high, and lies six miles from the main; on the south side is anchorage in fourteen fathoms water. Upon the mainland SW. by W. of this island, and apparently at no great distance from the sea, is a high round mountain, which I called Mount Edgecumbe ; it stands in the middle of a large plain, and is therefore the more conspicuous; lat. 37° 59', long. 193° 7'. In standing westward, we suddenly shoaled our water from seventeen to ten fathoms ; and knowing that we were not far from the small islands and rocks which we had seen before dark, and which I intended to have passed before I brought to for the night, I thought it more prudent to tack, and spend the night under MoNvtohora, where I knew there was no danger. It was indeed happy for us that we did so ; for in the morning, after we had made sail to the westward, we discovered ahead of us several rocks, some of which were level with the surface of the water, and some below it : they lay NNE. from ISIount Edgecumbe, one league and a half distant from the island Mowtohora, and about nine miles from the main. We passed between these rocks and the main, having from ten to seven fathoms water. This morning, many canoes and much people were seen along the shore. Several of the canoes followed us, but none of them could reach us, except one with a sail, which proved to be the same that had pelted us the night before. The people on board again entered into conversation with Tupia ; but we expected another volley of their ammunition, which was not indeed danger- ous to anything but the cabin windows. They continued abreast of the ship about an hour, and behaved very peaceably. . At \>\ail at high water, the long- boat was sent to take up the kedge anchor, but it blew so strong that she could not reach the buoy, ,ind the gale increasing soon obliged us to veer away more cable and strike topgallant yards. On the 23rd, the wind being contrary, we kept plying down the river, and at seven in the evening got without the north-west point of the islands lying on the west side of it. The weather being bad, night coming on, and having land on every side of us, I thought it most advisable to tack, and stretch in under the point, where we anchored in nineteen fathoms. At five in the morning of the 24th we weighed, and made sail to the NW. under our courses and double-reefed topsails, the wind being at SW. by W. and WSW., a strong gale and squally. As the gale would not permit us to come near the land, we had but a slight and distant view of it from the time when we got under sail till noon, during a run of twelve leagues ; but we never once lost sight of it. At this time our latitude, by observation, was 30° 15' 20". We were not above two miles from a point of land on the main, and three leagues and a half from a very high island, which bore NE. by E. In this situation we had twenty -six fathoms water. The farthest point on the main that we could see bore NW., l)ut we could perceive several small islands lying to the north of that direction. The point of land of which we were now abreast, and which I called Point Rodney, is the north-west extremity of the river Thames — for under that name I comprehend the deep bay which terminates in the fresh-water stream ; and the north-east extremity is the promontory which we passed when we entered it, and which I called Cape Colville, in honour of the Right Honourable Lord ColviUe. Cape Colville lies in lat. 36° 26', long. 194° 27'. It rises directly from the sea to a considerable height, and is remark- able for a lofty rock, which stands to the pitch of the point, and may be distinguished at a very great distance. [1769. of the few the narrow i'liore meet- ligetl us to jveii o'clock r, tlio long- ff so strong casing soon it yards. lying down nortli-west 'lie weather side of us, r the point, lie morning under our i^V. by W. would not md distant 3on, during of it. At We were , and three NE. by E. he farthest we could direction. d which I the river bay which extremity and which rable Lord It rises is remark- point, and 1769.J INTERVIEWS WITH THE NATIVES. lOI The natives residing about this river do not appear to bo very nunn;rous, considering the great extent of country. At least not ni.'iny caino off to the ship at one time ; and as we were but little aslioro ourselves, we could not so well judge of their numbers. Tliey are as strong, well-made, active people as any we have seen yet, and all of them paint their bodies with red ochre and oil from head to foot — a thing that we have not seen before. Their canoes are large, well built, and ornamented with carved work in general as well as most we have seen. We kept standing along shore to the NW., having the main- land on the one side and islands on the other. At half-past seven p.m. we anchored in a bay in fourteen fathoms, sandy bottom. We had no sooner come to an anchor than we caught between ninety and one hundred bream (a fish so called). This occasioned my giving this place the name of Bream Bay. The bay is every- where pretty broad, and between throe and four leagues deep ; at the bottom of it there appears to be a fresh-water river. The north head of the bay, called Bream Head, is high land, and remarkable on account of several peaked rocks ranged in order upon the top of it. This bay may likewise be known by some small islands lying before it called the Hen and Chickens, one of which is pretty high, and terminates at top in two peaks. The land between Point Rod- ney and Bream Head, which is ten leagues, is low and wooded in turfs, and between the sea and the firm land are white sand-banks. We saw no inhabitants, but saw fires in the night, a proof that the country is not uninhabited. At daylight we left the bay and directed our course along shore to the northward, having a gentle breeze at S. by W. and clear weather. At noon we saw some small islands, to which I gave the name of the Poor Knights. The country appeared low, but well covered with wood. Wo saw some straggling houses, three or four fortified towns, and near them a large quantity of cultivated land. In the evening, seven large canoes came off to us, with about two hundred men. Some of them came on board, and said that they had heard of us. To two of them, who appeared to be chiefs, I gave presents. But when these were gone out of the ship, the others became exceedingly troublesome. Some of those I02 NA TIVE VILLA GES. [1769. in the canoes began to trade, and, according to their custom, to cheat, by refusing to deliver what had been bought, after they had received the price. Among these was one who had received an old pair of black breeches, which, upon a few small shot being fired at him, he threw into the sea. All the boats soon after paddled off to some distance, and when they thought they wore out of reach they began to defy us, by singing their song and brandishing their weapons. We thought it advisable to intimidate them, as well for their sakes as our own, and therefore tired first some small arms and then round shot over their heads. The last put them in a terrible fright, though they received no damage, except by overheating themselves in paddling away, which they did with astonishing expedition. At noon the mainland extended from S. by E, to NW. b" W., a remarkable point '>f land bearing W., distant four or five miles. At three wo passed it, ' "^ — 've it the name of Cape Brett, in honour of Sir Percy. The lanu ov '^Is cape is considerably higher than any part of the adjacent coast. At the point of it is a high round hillock, and NE. by N., at the distance of about a mile, is a small high island or rock, which, like several that have already been described, was perforal u quite through, so as to apjiear like the arch of a bridge. Thi.; cai>e or at least some part of it, is by the natives called Motugofogr, and it lies in lat. 35° 10' 30" S., long. 185° 25' W. On tiiw west side of it is a large and pretty deep bay, lying in SW. by W., in which there appeared to be several small islands. The point that forms the north-west en- trance iies W. \ N. at the distance of three or four leagues from Cape Brett, and I distinguished it by the name of Point Pococke. On the south-west side of this bay we saw several villages, situ- ated both on islands and on the mainland, from whence came off to us several large canoes full of people ; but, like those that had been alongside before, would not enter into a friendly traffic with us, but would cheat whenever they had an opjiortunity. Tlie people in these canoes made a very good appearance, being all stout, well-made men, having their hair — which was black — combed up and tied upon the crown of their heads, and there stuck with white feathers. In each of the canoes were two or three chiefs, and the habits of these were rather superior to any [1769. 1769.] BOAT LOADS OF CEl ERY. •03 nstom, to iter they received lot being loon after lioy Wore song and ntiniidate ired first s. The damage, lich tlicy ^ b" W., vo miles, Brett, in ly liiglier is a high a mile, is ^ already [lear like it, is by 0' 30" S., id pretty ed to be west en- ues from ?*ococke. ges, situ- canie off that liad ifRc with y. Tlie Jeing all black — id there ! two or ' to any we had yet seen. The cloth they wore was of the best sort, and covered on the outside with dog-skiiis, put on in such a manner as to look agreeable enough to the eye. Few of these people were tattooed or marked in the face, like those wo have seen fartluT to the south. In the course of this day — that is, this afternoon anil yesterday forenoon — we reckoned that we had not less than four or live hundred of the natives alongside and on board the ship, and in thid time did not range above six or eight leagues off the sea-coast — a strong proof that this part of the country must be well inhabited. At 8 a.m. we were within a mile of groups of islands lying close under the mainland, distance twenty- two miles from Cape Brett. Hero we lay for nearly two hours, having little or no wind. ' ing this time several canoes came off to the ship, and two or three of them sold us some fish — cavalles, as they are called, which occasioned my giving the islands the same name. After this some others began to pelt us with stones, and would not desist at the firing of two musket balls through one of their boats. At last I was obliged to pepper two or three fellows with small shot, after which they retired ; and the wind coming at NW., we stood off to sea. Having taken a view of the bay, and loaded both boats with celery, which we found here in great plenty, we returned on board, and at 4 am. hove up the anchor in order to put to sea, vith a light breeze at E. ; but it soon falling calm, obliged us to come to again ; and about eight or nine o'clock, seeing no proba- bility of our getting to sea, I sent the master to sound the harbour. But before this, I ordered Matthew Cox, Henry Stevens, and Eman Parreyra to be punished with a dozen lashes each for leaving their duty when ashore last night, and digging up potatoes out of one of the plantations. The first of the three I remitted back to confinement, because he insisted that there was no harm in what ho had done. All this forenoon had abundance of the natives about the ship and some few on board. We traflicked with them for a few trifles, in which they dealt very fair and friendly. At 3 p.m., the boats having returned from sounding, I went with them over to the south side of the harbour and landed upon the main, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing new or remarkable. The place where we landed was I04 THE BA V OF ISLANDS. [1709. in a small sandy cove, where there are two small streams of fresh water, and plenty of wood for fuel. Here were likewise several little plantations planted with potatoes and yams. The soil and natural produce of the country were much the same as what we have hitherto met with. The face of the country appeared green and pleasant, and the soil seemed to be pretty rich and proper for cultivation. The land is everywhere about this bay of a moderate height, but full of small hills and valleys, and not much en- cumbered with. wood. We met with about half a dozen cloth plants, being those of which the inhabitants of the islands lying within the tropics make their finest cloth. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of ornaments at their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the use of this sort of cloth doth in some measure account for the extraordinary fondness they have showed for it above every other tiling wc had to give them. Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so much English cloth of any sort whatever ; but as we have been at few places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it is more than probable that they will soon learji to set a v.nlue upon it, and likewise ujion iron, a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the least value upon. But were European commodities in ever such esteem amongst them, they have no one thing of equal value to give in return, at least that we have seen. At three o'clock on the 5th December avo returned on board, and after dinner visited another part of the bay, but met with nothing new. By the evening all our empty casks were filled with water, and we had at the same time got on l)oard a largo quantity of celeiy, which is found here in groat phaity. This I still caused to be boiled every morning with oatmeal and portable soup for the ship's company's breakfast. Tliis bay lies on the west side of Cape Brett, and I named it the Bay of Islands, from the great number of islands which line its shores, and form several harbours equally safe and conunodious, where there is room and depth for any number of shipping. That in which we lay is on the .south-west side of the south-westernmost island, called Matuaro, on the south-ciiust side of the bay. On the 9th, daylight brought us pretty well in with the land, [1769. ns of fresh mse several 'he soil and as what we eared green proper for a moderate much en- :lozen cloth lands lying lant must i only worn I even tliis use of this traordinary ng wo had value tlian f have been loss of the irn to set a le of them 5 European a-ve no one liavo seen, on board, met with were filled vd a largo ity. This d portable med it the 3h line its nmodiouH, ng. That aternmost the laud, 1769.J NATIVE REPORTS OF THE COUNTRY. loS seven leagues to the westward of the Cavalle Isles, and where lies a deep bay running in SW. by W. and WSW., the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the land appeared to be low and level, two points forming the entrance. Tins bay I have named Doubtless Bay. The wind not permitting us to look into this bay, we steered for the westernmost land we had in sight. While we lay becalmed, several canoes came off to us ; but the people having heard of our guns, it was not without great difficulty that they were persuaded to come under our stern. After having bought some of their cloths, as well as their fish, we began to make inquiries concerning their ountry, and learned, by the help of Tupia, that, at the distance of three days' rowing in their canoes, at a place called Moore-whennua, the land would take a short turn to the southAvard, and from thence extend no more to the west. This place we concluded to be the land discovered by Tasnian, which he called Cape Maria van Diemen ; and finding these people so intelligent, we inquired further if they knew of any country besides their own. They answered that they never had visited any other, but that their ancestors had told them that to the NW. by N. or NNW. there was a country of great extent, called Ulimaroa, to which .some peojile had sailed in a very large canoe; that only piat of them returned, and reported that after a passage of a month they had seen a country where the people ate hoijs. Early in the morning we stood in with the land, seven leagues to tlie westward of i)oubtless Bay, the bottom of which is not far distant from the bottom of another largo bay, which the shore forms at tins place, being separated only by a low neck of land, which juts out into a peninsula that I have called Knuckle Point. About the middle of this bay, which we called Sandy Bay, is a high mountain, standing upon a distant shore, to which I gave the name of Mount Canitl. Tlxi latitude here is 34° 51' S., and longitude 186° 50'. We had twenty four and twenty-five fathoms water, with a good bottom ; but there .seod harbour, and by means of the former an easy communication would be hatl, and settlement.^ might bo extended into the inland parts of tlie country. For a very little trouble and expenses snmll vessels might be built in the river proper for the navigatiojj thereof. It is too much for me to assert how little water a vessel ought to draw to navigate this river, even so far up as I was in the boat. This depends entirely upon the depth of water that is upon the bar or flat that lay before T^ HP [1770. NEW ZEALANDER. Pag€ 111. WAR CANOE, NEW ZEALAND. /\iif !U. 1770.] NATIVES OF NEW ZEALAND. 121 the narrow part of the river, which I liad not an opportunity of making myself acquainted with ; but I am of opinion that a vessel that draws not above ten or twelve feet may do it with ease. So far as I have been able to judge of the genius of these people, it does not appear to me to be at all difficult for strangers to form a settlement in this counti-y. They seem to be too much divided among themselves to unite in opposing ; by which means, and kind and gentle usage, the colonists would be able to form strong parties among them. The natives of this country are a strong, raw-boned, well-made, active people, rather above than under the common size, especially the men. They are of a very dark-brown colour, with black hair, thin black beards, and white teeth ; and ."uch as do not dis6gure their faces by tattooing, etc., have in general very good features. The men generally wear their hair long, combed up and tied upon the crown of their heads. Some of the women wear it long and loose upon their shoulders, old women especially ; others again wear it cropped short. Their combs are made some of bones and others of wood ; they sometimes wear them as an ornament stuck upright in their hair. Both sexes paint their faces and bodies at times more or less witli red ochre mixed with fish oil. Their common clothing is very much like square thrumbed mats that are made of rope yarns, to lay at the doors or passages into houses to clean one's shoes upon. These they tie round their necks, and they are generally large enough to cover the body as low as the knee. They arc made with very little preparation of the broad grass-plant before mentioned. Beside the thrumbed mats, as I call them, they have other much finer clothing, made of the same j)lant after it is bleached and prepared in such a manner that it is as white and almost as soft as flax, but much stronger. Of this they make pieces of cloth about five feet long and four broad. These are woven some pieces close and others very open ; the former are as stout as the strongest sail-cloth, and not unlike it, and yet it is all worked or made by hand with no other instru- ment than a needle or bodkin. To one end of every piece is generally worked a very neat border of different colours of four or six inches broad, and they very often trim them with pieces of dog- skin or birds' feathers. These pieces of cloth they wear as they do 122 THEIR HABITS AND CUSTOMS. [1770. the other, tying one end round their necks with a piece of string, to one end of which is fixed a needle or bodkin made of bone, by means of which they can easily fasten, or put the string through any part of the cloth. They sometimes wear pieces of this kind of cloth round their middles, as well as over their shoulders. Both men and women wear ornaments at their ears and about their necks. These are made of stone, bone, shells, etc., and are variously shaped ; and some I have seen wearing human teeth and finger nails. The men, when they are dressed, generally wear two or three long white feathers stuck upright in th.eir hair, and at Queen Charlotte's Sound many wore round caps made of black feathers. Whenever we were visited by any number of them that had never heard or seen anything of us before, they generally came off" in the largest canoe they had, some of which will carry sixty, eighty, or one hundred people. They always brought their best clothes along with them, which they put on as soon as they came near the ship. In each canoe was generally an old man, in some two or three. These used always to direct the others, were better clothed, and generally carried a halberd or battle-axo in their hands, or some such like thing that distinguished them from the others. As soon as they came within about a stone's throw of the ship they would there lie, and call out, " Haromoi harenta a patoo ago ! " that is, " Come here, come ashore with us, and we will kill you with our patapatoos ! " and at the same time would shake them at us. At times they would dance the war dance ; and other times they would trade with and talk to us, and answer such questions as were put to them with all the calmness imaginable, and then again begin the war dance, shaking the'.r paddles, patoo-patoos, etc., and make strange contortions at the same time. As soon as they had worked themselves up to a proper pitch they would begin to attack us with stones and dart.", and oblige us, whether wo would or not, to fire upon them. Musketry they never rogai'ded unless they felt the effect ; but great guns they did, because they threw stones farther than they could comprehend. After they found that our arms wero so much superior to theirs, and that we took no advantage of that superiority, and a little time had been given them to reflect upon it, they ever after were our very good friends ; [1770. 1770.] THEIR CANNIBALISM. 123 and we never had an instance of their attempting to surprise or out off any of our people when they were asliore. Opportunity for so doing they must have had at one time or another. It is haid to account for what we have everywhere been told of their eating their enemies killed in battle, which they most certainly do. Circumstances enough we liave seen to convince us of the truth of this. Tujjia, who holds this custom in great aversion, hath very often argued with them against it, but they have always as strenuously supported it, and never would own that it was wrong. It is reasonable to suppose that men with whom this custom is found, seldom, if ever, give quarter to those they overcome in battle ; and if so, they must fight desperately to the very last A strong proof of this supposition we had from the people of Queen Charlotte's Sound, who told us that, but a few days before we arrived, they had killed and eaten a whole boat's crew. Surely a single boat's crew, or at least a part of them, when thoy found themselves beset and overpowered by numbers, would have surrendered themselves prisoners, were such their practice. The heads of these unfortunate people they preserved as trophies. With respect to religion, I believe these people trouble them- selves very little about it. They, however, believe that there is one supreme god, whom they call Tawney, and likewise a number of other inferior deities; but whether or not they worship or pi ay to either one or the other we know not with any degree of certainty. It is reasonable to suppose that they do, and I believe it ; yet I never saw the least action or thing among them that tended to prove it. Having sailed from Cape Farewell, which lies in lat. 40° 33' S., long. 186° W., on Saturday the 31st of March 1770, we steered westward, with a fresh gale at Nl^E., and at noon on the 2nd of April our latitude, by observation, was 40°, our longitude from Cape Farewell 2^ 31' W. On the 19th, at 5 a.m., we saw land. We continued standing westward, with -"'le wind at SSW., till eight, when we made all the sail we could, and bore away along the shore NE. for the easternmost land in sight, being at this time in lat. 37" 68' S., and long. 210° 39' W. The southernmost point of land in Ai \\. 124 FROM NEW ZEALAND TO AUSTRALIA. [177a •:iil sight, which bore from us W. \ S., I judged to lie in lat. 38°, long. 211° 7', and gave it the name of Point Hicks, because Mr Hicks, the first lieutenant, was the first who discovered it. To the south- ward of this point no land was to be seen, though it was very clear in that quarter, and by our longitude, compared with that of Tasman — not as it is laid down in the printed charts, but in the extracts from Tasman's journal, published by Rembrantse — the body of Van Dieuien's Land ought to have borne due south. And, indeed, from the sudden falling of the sea after the wind abated, I had reason to think it did ; yet as I did not see it, and as I found this coast trend FE. and SW. or rather more to the eastward, I cannot determine whether it joins to Van Diemen's Land or not. At six in the evening on the 20th we shortened sail and brought to for the night. The northernmost land in sight was a small island lying close to a point on \X. lain. This point I called Capo Howe. At four in the morning we made sail again, at the distance of about five leagues from the land, and at six we were abreast of a high mountain, lying near the shore, which, on account of its figure, I called Mount Dromedary. Under this mountain the shore forms a point, to which I gave the name of Point Dromedary, and over it there is a peaked hillock. After this we steered along shore, having a gentle breeze at SW,, and were so near the shore as to distinguish severa'. people upon the sea beach. They appeared to be of a very dark or black colour, but whether this was the real colour of their skins or the clothes they might have on, I know not. A remarkable peaked hill lay inland, the top of which looked like a pigeon-house, and occasioned my giving it that name. A small low island lay close under the shore. When we first discovered this island in the morning I was in hopes, from its appearance, that we should have found shelter for the ship behind it ; but when we came to approach it near I did not think that there was even security for a boat to land. But this, I believe, I should have attempted had not the wind come on shore, after which I did not think it safe to send a boat from the ship, as we had a large hollow sea from the SE. rolling in upon the land, which beat everywhere very high upon the shore ; and this wo have had ever since we came upon the coast. The land near the sea-coast still continues of a moderate height, forming alternately rocky [1770. I ^r- 1770.] THE AUSTRALIAN COAST. 125 points and sandy beaches ; but inland, between Mount Dromedary and the Pigeon-House, are several pretty high mountains, two only of which we saw, but which were covered with trees, and these lay inland behind the Pigeon-House, and j,re remarkably flat atop, with steep rocky cliffs all round them. As far as we could see, the trees in this country have all the appearance of being stout and lofty. On the 25th, at three in the morning, we made sail again to the northward, having the advantage of a fresh gale at SW. At noon we were about three or four leagues from the shore, and in lat. 34° 22' S., long. 208° 36' W. In the cour.se of this day's run from the preceding noon, which was forty-five miles north-east, we saw smoke in several places near the beach. About two leagues to the northward of Cape George, the shore seemed to form a bay, which promised shelter from the north-east winds ; but as the wind was with us, it was not in my power to look into it without beating up, which would have cost me more time than I was willing to spare. The north point of this bay, on account of its figure, I named Long Nose. Its latitude is 35° 6', and about eight leagues north of it there lies a point, which, from the colour of the land about it, I called Red Pouit. On the 28th I hoisted out the pinnace and yawl to attempt a landing ; but the pinnace proved to be so leaky that I was obliged to hoist her in again. I embarked in the yawl, and we pulled for that part of the shore where some Indians appeared. The Indians sat down upon the rocks, and seemed to wait for our Ian ling; but to our great regret, when we came within about a quarter of a mile, they ran away into the woods. We deter- mined, however, to gc ashore, and endeavour to procure an inter- view ; but in this we were again disappointed, for we found so great a surf beating upon every part of the beach, that landing with our little boat was altogether impracticable. We were therefore obliged to be content with gazing at such objects as presented themselves from the water. The canoes, upon a near view, seemed very much to resemble those of the smaller sort at New Zealand. We observed that among the trees on shore, which were not very large, there was no underwood, and could distinguish that many of them were of the palm kind, and some of them cab- bage trees. After many a wistful look we were obliged to return, xa6 AUSTRALIAN NATIVES. [1770. I i ! with our curiosity rather excited than satisfied, and about five in the evening got on board the ship. About this time it fell calm, and our situation was by no means agreeable. We were now not more than a mile and a half from the shore, and within some breakers, which lay to the soutliward ; but happily a light breeze came oil" the land, and carried us out of danger. With this breeze we stood to the northward, and at daybreak we discovered a bay which seemed to be well sheltered from all winds, and into which, therefore, I determined to go with the ship. Wo continued to stand into the bay, and early in the afternoon anchored under the south shore, about two miles within the entrance, in six fathoms water, the south point bearing SE., and the north point E. As we came in we saw, on Ijoth points of the bay, a few huts and several of the natives — men, women, and children. Under the south head we saw four small canoes, with each one man on board, who were very busily employed in striking fish with a long pike or spear. They ventured almost into the surf, and were so intent upon what they were doing, that, although the ship passed within a quarter of a mile of them, they scarcely turned their eyes towards her ; possibly being deafened by the surf, and their attention wholly fixed upon their business or sport, they neither saw nor hea^d her go past them. The place where the ship had anchored was abreast of a si.iall village consisting of about six or eight houses ; and while we were preparing to hoist out the boat, wo saw an old woman, followed by thi-eo children, come out of the wood. She was loaded with fire- wood, and each of the children had also its little burden. When she came to the houses, three more children, younger than the others, came out to meet her. She often looked at the ship, but expressed neither fear nor surprise. In a short time she kindled a fire, and the four cargoes came in from fishing. The men landed, and having hauled up their boats, began tf) dress their dinner, to all appearance wholly unconcerned about us, though wo were within half a mile of ^hem. We thought it remarkable that of all the people we had yet seen, not one had the least appearance of clothing. Soon they called to us in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dis- sonant language, of which neither we nor Tupia understood a single word. They brandislied their weapons, and seemed resolved wo.] THEIR HOSTILE ATTITUDE. 1^7 to defend their coast to the uttermogt, though they were but two and we were forty. I could not but admire their courage; and being very unwilling that hostilities should commence with such inequality of force between us, I ordered the boat to lie upon her oars. We then parleyed by signs for about a quarter of an hour ; and to bespeak their goodwill, I threw them nails, beads, and other trifles, which they took up and seemed to be well pleased with, I then made signs that I wanted water, and, by all the means that I could devise, endeavoured to convince them that we would do them no harm. They now waved to us, and I was willing to interpret it as an invitation ; but upon our putting the boat in, they came again to oppose us. One appeared to be a ^ outh about nineteen or twenty, and the other a man of middle age. As I had now no other resource I fired a musket between them. Upon the report, the youngest dropped a bundle of lances upon the rock ; but recollecting himself in an instant, he snatched them up again with great haste. A stone was then thrown at us, upon which I ordered a musket to be fired with small shot, which struck the eldest upon the legs, and he immediately ran to one of the houses, which was distant about a hundred yards. I now hoped that our contest was over, and we immediately landed ; but we had scarcely left the boat when he returned, and we then per- ceived that he had left the rock only to fetch a shield or target for his defence. As soon as he came up, he threw a lance at us, and his comrade another. They fell where we stood thickest, but happily hurt nobody. A third musket with small shot was then fired at them, upon which one of them threw another lance, and both immediately ran away. Early the next morning the body of Forby Sutherland, one of our seamen, who died the evening before, was buried near the watering place ; and from this incident I called the south point of this bay Sutherland Point. This day we resolved to make an excursion into the country. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, myself, and seven others, properly accoutred for the expedition, set out, and repaired first to the liuts near the watering place, whither some of the 'latives continued every day to resort ; and though the little presents which we had left there before had not yet been taken away, we left others of somewhat more value, May, Z38 DISCOVERY OF BOTANY BAY. [ina i consisting of cloth, looking-glasses, combs, and beads, and then went up into the country. We found tiie soil to be either swamp or light sand, and the face of the country finely diversified by woo«l and lawn. The trees are tall, straight, and without underwood, standing at such a distance from each other that the whole country, at least where the swamps do not render it incapable of cultivation, might be cultivated without cutting down one of them. Between the trees the ground is covered with grass, of which there is great abundance, growing in tufts about as big as can well be grasped in the hand, which stand very close to each other. We saw many houses of the inhabitants, and places where they had slept upon the grass without any shelter ; but we saw only one of the people, who, the moment he discovered us, ran away. At all these places we left presents, hoping that at length they might produce confi- dence and goodwill. We had a transient and imperfect view of a quadruped about as big as a rabbit. Mr. Banks's greyhound, which was with us, got sight of it, and would probably have caught it ; but the moment he set off he lamed himself against a stump which lay concealed in the long grass. We found the face of the country much the same as I have before described, but the land much richer, for instead of sand I found in many places a deep black soil, which we thought was capable of producing any kind of grain. At present it produceth, besides timber, as fine meadow as ever was seen. However, we found it not all like this : some few places were very rocky ; but this, I believe, to be uncommon. The stone is sandy and very proper for building, etc. The great quantity of plants which Mr. Banks ii.nd Dr. Solander collected in this place induced me to give it the name of Botany Bay. It is situated in lat. 34" S., long. 208" 37' W. It is capa- cious, safe, and convenient, and may be known l)y the land on the sea-coast, which is nearly level and of a moderate hei).;ht : in general higher than it is farther inland, with steep rocky cliils next the sea, which have the appearance of a long island lying close under the shore. The country is woody, lov and flat as far as we coulil 8<;e, and I believe that the soil is in yOneral sandy. In t'no wood are a variety of very beautifu) birds, such as cockatoos, lorikeets, [ina 1770,] FLYING THE ENGLISH COLOURS. 129 parrots, etc., and crows exactly like those we have in England. Water-fowl is no less plentiful about the head of the harbour, where there are large flats of sand and mud, on which they seek their food ; the most of these were unknown to us, one sort especially, which was black and white, and as large as a goose, but most like a peHcan. On the sand and mud-banks are oysters, mussels, cockles, etc., which I believe are the chief support of the inhabit- ants, who go into shoal water with their little canoes and pick them out of the sand and mud with their hands, and sometimes roast and eat them in the canoe, having often a fire for that pur- pose, as I suppose, for I know no other it can be for. The natives do not apjMiar to be numerous, neither do they seem to live in large bodies, but dispersed in small parties along by the water side. Those I saw were about as tall as Europeans, of a very dark -brown colour, but not black, nor had they woolly, frizzled hair, but black and lank like ours. No sort of clothing or ornaments were ever seen by any of us upon any one of them, or in or about any of their huts ; from which I conclude that they never weai* any. Some that we saw had their faces and bodies painted with a sort of white paint or pigment Although I have said that shellfish is their chief support, yet they catch other sorts of fish, some of which we found roasting on the tire the first time we landed Sting rays, I believe, they do not eat, because I never saw the least remains of one near any of their huts or fireplacea However, we could know but very little of their customs, as >yo never were aV)le to form any connections with them. They had not so much as touched the things we had left in their huts on purpose for them to take away. During our stay in this harbour I caused the English colours to be displayed ashore every day, and an inscription to be cut out upon one of the trees near the watering place, setting forth the ship's name, date, etc. «61 CHAPTER XI. RANOB FROM BOTANY BAY TO TRINITY BAY, WITH A Fl'HTHEH ACCOUNT OV THE COUNTUY, ETC.— DANGEROL'S SITUATION OV THK SHIP IN HER COURSE FROM TRINITY BAY TO ENDEAVOUR RIVER— APPEARANCE OP SCURVY. 1770. \ T daybreak on Sunday the 6th of May 1770, we set ^" iV Hail from Botany Bay, with a light breeze at NW., which soon after coming to the southward, we steered along the shore NNE., and at noon our latitude, by observation, was 33° SO* S. At this time we were between two and three miles distant from the land, and abreast of a bay or harlwur in which there appeared to be good anchorage, and which I called Port Jackson. This harbour lies three leagues to the northward of Botany Bay. The variation, by se\eral azimuths, appeared to l>e 8° E. At sun- set, the northernmost land in sight bore N. 26 E., and some broken land that seemed to form a bay bore N. 40 W., distant four leagues. This bay, which lies in lat. 33' 42', I called Broken Bay. The northernmost land in sight on the 27th bore N. 19 E., and some lands which projected in thret^ bluff points, and which, for that reason, I called Cape Three Points. At four in the afternoon we passed, at a distance of ahtiut a mile, a low rocky point, which I called Point Stephens, on the north side of which is an inlet, which [ called Port St<^phens. At eight on the 11th mx> were abreast of a high point of land, which made in two hillocks. This point I calhwl Cape Hawke. During our run along the shore, in the afternoon, we saw smoke in sevend places at a little distanoo from the beach, and ui)on the top of a hill, which was the first w(» hod seen upon elevated ground since our arrival upon the coast. At sunset m'o had twenty-three fathoms, at the distance of a league and a half from the shore. The northernmost laiul then l)ore N. 13 E.; and three hills, remarkably lurge and high, were lying contiguous to each U] DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST. 131 otiier, and not far from the beach, NNW. As these hills bore some resemblance to each other, we called them the Three Brothers. On the 13th we saw a point or headland, on which were fires that caused a great quantity of smoke, which occasioned my giving it the name of Smoky Cape. It is moderately high land. Over the pitch of the point is a round hillock ; within it two others, much higher and larger, and within them very low laud. Ah we advanced to the northwanl from Botany Bay, the land gi-adually incrciised in height, so that in this latitude it may be called a hilly countiy. Between this latitude and the bay it exhibits a pleasing variety of ridges, liills, valleys, and plains, all clothed with wood, of the same appearance with that which has been particularly described. The land near the shore is in general low and sandy, except the points, which are rocky, and over many of them are high hills, which, at their fii-st rising out of the water, have the appearance of islands. At daylight on the 16th we were sui-prised by finding ourselves farther to the southward than wo wore in the evening, and yet it had blown strong all night southerly. We now saw the breakers again within us, which we passed at a distance of alwut one league. Their situation may always be found by a peaked mountain which b«'ar8 SVV". by W. from them, and on their account I liave named it Mount Warning. The land is high and hilly alwut it, but it is conspicuous enough to l)o distinguishetl from everything else. The point off which these shoals lay I h^ve named Point Danger. To the northward of it the land, which is low, trends NW. by N. ; but w(' soon found that it did not ket^p that direction long before it turned again to the northward. We pursuetl our course along the shore till between four and five in the afternoon, when we discoverfHl breakers on our larboard bow, on the north side of a point to which I gave the name of Point Ivookout The shore forms a wide, open bay, which I called Jkloreton's Bay. The breakers lie l>etwoen three and four miles from Point Lookout ; and at thin time we had a great sea from the southward, which broke ujwn them very high. At rin«-»n on the 19th we were about four miles from the land, with only thirteen fathomn. Our latitude wan 25* 4', and tho 132 DISTURBANCES ON BOARD. [177a m northernmost land in sight bore N. 21 W., distant eight miles. At one o'clock, being still four miles distant from the shore, but having seventeen fathoms water, we passed a black bluff head, or point of land, upon which a great number of the natives were assembled, and which therefore I called Indian Head, It lies in latitude 25° 3'. About four miles N. by W. of this head is another very like it. This point I named Sandy Cape, from two very large patches of white sand which lay upon it. It is sufficiently high to be seen at the distance of twelve leagues, in clear weather, and lies in latitude 24° 4^'. Last night, some time in the middle watch, a very extra- ordinary affair happened to Mr. Orton, my clerk. He having been drinking in the evening, some malicious person or persons in the ship took advantage of his being drunk, and cut all the clothes from off his back. Not being satisfied with this, they some- time after went into his cabin and cut off a part of both his ears as he lay asleep in his bed. The person whom he suspected to have done this was Mr. Magra, one of the midshipmen ; but this did not appear to me. Upon inquiry, however, as I had been told that Magra had once or twice before this in their drunken frolics cut off his clothes, and had been heard to say that if it was not for the law he would murder him — the.se things considered, induced me to think that Magra was not altogether innocent. I therefore, for the present, dismissed him the quarter-deck, and suspended him from doing any duty in the ship, he being one of those gentlemen frequently found on board king's ships that can very well be spared. Besides it was necessary in me to show my immediate resentment against the person on whom the suspicion fell, lest they should not have stop|)ed here. With respect to Mr. Orton, he is a man not without faults ; yet from all the inquiry I could make, it evidently appeared to me that, so far from deserving such treatment, he had not designed injuring any person in the ship ; so that I do — and shall always — look upon him as an injured man. Some reasons, however, might be given why this misfortune came upon him, in which he himself was in some measure to blame ; but as this is only conjecture, and would tend to fix it upon some people in the ship whom I would fain believe could hardly be guilty of such an action, I shall say nothing about si v [177a lies. At ore, but head, or /ea were t lies in i another ;wo very ifficiently weather, ry extra- [e having persons in he clothes hey some- th his ears spected to ; but this been told ken frolics it was not considered, innocent, r-deck, and ^ing one of s that can X) show my e suspicion respect to om all the so far from any person 1 him as an in why this in some would tend fain believe thing about 1770.] RANGING THE COAST. 133 AS it, unless I shall hereafter discover the offenders, which I shall take every method in my power to do ; for I look upon such pro- ceedings as highly dangerous in such voyages as this, and the greatest insult that could be oflFered to my authority in this ship, as I have always been ready to hear and redress every complaint that has been made against any person in the ship. On the 22nd, at six in the morning, we weighed, with a gentle breeze from the southward, and steered NW. \ W., edging in for the land till we got within two miles of it, with water from seven to eleven fathoms. We then steered NNW. as the land lay, and at noon our latitude was 24° 19'. We continued in the same course, at the same distance, with from twelve fathoms to seven, till five in the evening, when we were abreast of the south point of a large open bay, in which I intended to anchor. During this course we discovered with our glasses that the land was covered with palm-nut trees, which we had not seen from the time of our leaving the islands within the tropics. We also saw two men walking along the shore, who did not condescend to take the least notice of us. In the evening, having hauled close upon a wind and made two or three trips, we anchored about eight o'clock in five fathoms, with a fine sandy bottom. The south point of the bay bore K J S., distant two miles ; the north point NW. \ N., and about the same distance from the shore. In the morning I went ashore with a party of men in order to examine the country, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen ; we landed a little within the south point of the bay, where there is a channel leading into a large lagoon. The first thing that I did was to sound and examine the channel, in which I found three fathoms, until I got about a mile up it, where I met with a shoal, whereon was little more than one fathom ; being over this, I had three fathoms again. The entrance into this channel lies close to the south point of this bay, being formed on tlie east by the shore, and on the west by a large spit of sand ; it is about a quarter of a mile broad. Here is room for a few ships to Ho very secure, and a small stream of fresh water. After this I made a little excursion into the woods, while some hands made three or four hauls with the seine, but caught not above a dozen very small fish. By this time the flood was made, and I embarked in the 134 CAPE CAPRICORN. [llrTa boats in order to row up the lagoon ; but in this I was hindered by meeting everywhere with shoal wat«r. As yet we had seen no people, but saw a great deal of smoke up and on the west side of the lagoon, which was all too far off for us to go by land, except- ing ona This we went to, and found ten small fires in a very small compass, and some cockle shells lying by them ; but the people were gone. On the windward or south side of one of the fires was stuck up n little bark about a foot and a half high, and some few pieces lay about in other pltces. These we concluded were all the covering they had in the night ; and many of them, I firmly believe, have not this, but, naked is they are, sleep in the open air. Tupia, who was with us, observed that they were taala enoa — that is, bad or poor people. The country is visibly worse than at the lost place we were at. The soil is dry and sandy, and the woods are free from underwoods of every kind. Here are of the same sort of trees as we found in Botany Harbour, with a few other sorts. Upon the shore we saw a species of the bustard, one of which we shot; it was as large as a turkey, and weighed seventeen pounds and a half. We all agreed that this was the best bird we had eaten since we left England ; and in honoUi- of it we called this inlet Bustard Bay. The nca. seemed to abound with fish ; buw, unhappily, we tore our seine all to pieces at the first haul. Upon the niud-banks, under the mangroves, we found innumerable oysters of various kinds ; among otliera the hammer-oyster, and a large proportion of small pearl-oysters. If in deeper water there is equal plenty of such oysters at tnoir full growth, a pearl fishery might certainly be established liere to very great advantage. At five in the morning wo made sail, and at daylight the northernmost point of t'K^ main bore N. 70 W. Soon after we saw more land, making like 'slands, and l)caring NW. by N. At nine we were abreast of the point, at the distance of one mile, with fourteen fathoms water. This point I found to lie directly under the tropic of Capricorn, and for that reason 1 called it Cape Capri- corn. Its longitude is 208° 58' W. It is of a considerable height, looks white and l>arren, and may be known by some islands which lie to the NW. of it, and some small rocks at the distance of about a league 8E. 17T0.] SCARCITY OF WATER. 135 At noon on the 27th we were about two leagues distant from the main, and by observation in lat. 22° 53' S. The northernmost point of land in sight now bore NNW., distant ten milea To this point I gave the name of Cape Manifold, from the number of high hills which appeared over it. It lies in lat. 22" 43' S., and distant about seventeen leagues from Cape Capricorn, in the direction of N. 26 W. Between these cajies the shore forms a large bay, which I called Keppel Bay ; and I also distinguished the islands by the name of Keppel's Islands. In this bay there is good anchorage ; but what re.'reshments it may afford I know not. We caught no fish, though we were at anchor ; but pr< bably there is fresh water in several places, as botli the islands and the main are inhabited. We saw smoke and fires upon the main, and upon the islands we saw people. At nine o'clock on the 28th we were abreast of the point, which I named Cape Townshcnd. At six next day we anchored in ten fathoms, sandy bottom, about two miles from the mainland, having still a number of islands in sight a long way without us. At 5 a.m. I sent away the master with two boats to sound the entrance of an inlet, into which I intended to go with the ship to wait a few days until the moon increased, and in the meantime to examine the country. By such time as wo had got the ship under sail the boats made the signal for anchoi'age, upon which we stood in with the ship, and anchored in five fathoms, about a league within the entrance of the inlet, which we judged to be a river running a good way inland, as I observed the tides to flow and ebb something considcriible. I had some thoughts of laying the Hhip ashore to clean her bottom. With this view both the master and I went to look for a Convenient place for that purpose, and at tlie same time to look for fresh water, not one drop of which we could find, but met with several places where a ship might be laid ashore with safety. Tills inlet I have named Tliirsty Sound, by reason we could find no fresh water. I have ali-eady observed that here is no fresh water, nor could we procure refreshment of any other kind. We saw two turtles, but we were not able to take either of them. Neither did we catch either fish or wild fowl, except a few small laud birds. We saw, indeed, the same sorts of water-fowl 136 COASTING NORTHWARDS. [X77a Jnne. as in Botany Bay, but they were so shy that we could not get a shot at them. As I had not therefore a single inducement to stay longer in this place, I weighed anchor at six o'clock in the morn- ing of the 31st and put to se& At eight on the 3rd we discovered low land, quite across what we took for an opening between the main and the islands, which proved to be a bay about five or six leagues deep. Upon this we hauled our wind to the eastward round the northern- most point of the bay, which bore from us at this time NE. by N., distance four leagues. From this point we found the mainland trend away N. by "W. \ W., and a strait or passage between it and a large island or islands lying in a parallel direction with the coast. This passage we stood into, having the tide of ebb in our favour. At noon we were just within the entrance. This point I have named Cai)e Conway, and the bay, Repulse Bay, which is formed by two capes. At six o'clock in the evening of the 4th we were nearly the length of the north end of the passage, with an open sea between the two poi'its. As this passage was discovered on Whitsunday, I called it Whitsunday's Passage ; and I called the islands that form it Cumberland Islands, in honour of his royal highness the duke. We kept under an easy sail, with the lead going all night, being at the distance of about three leagues from the shore, and having from twenty-one to twenty-three fatlioms water. At day- break we were abreast of the point which had been the farthest in sight to the north-west the evening before, which I named Cape Gloucester. It b a lofty promontory, and may be known by an island which lies out at sea N. by W. \ W. at the distance of five or six leagues from it, and which I called Holbome Isle. There are also islands lying under the land between Holbome Isle and Whitsunday's Passage. On the west side of Cape Gloucester the land trends away SW. and SSW. and forms a deep bay, the bottom of which I could but just see from the mast-head. It is very low, and a continuation of the low land which we had seen at the bottom of Repulse Bay. This bay I called Edgcumbe Bay. We continued to steer WNW. as the land lay, with twelve or fourteen fathoms water, till noon on the 6th, when our latitude by ma] NAMING THE CAPES. m the observation was 19° 1' S., and we had the mouth of a bay all open, extending from S. ^ R to S\V. ^ S., distant two leagues. This bay, which I named Cleveland Bay, appeared to be about five or six miles in extent every way. Tlie east point I named Cape Cleveland, and the west, whi'^h had the appearance of an island, Magnetical Isle, as we perceived that the compass did not traverse well when we were near it. Tliey are both high, and so is tlie mainland within them, the whole forming a surface the most rugged, rocky, and barren of any we had seen upon the coast It was not, however, without inhabitants, for we saw smoke in several parts of the bottom of the bay. On the 5th we saw several large smokes upon the main, some people, canoes, and, as we thought, cocoa-nut trees upon one of the islands ; and as a few of these nuts would have been very accept- able to us at this time, I sent Lieutenant Hicks ashore, with whom went Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to see what was to be got In the meantime we kept standing in for the island with the ship. At seven they returned on board, having met with nothing worth observing. Tlie trees we saw were a small kind of cabbage palm& They heard some of the natives as they were putting off from the shore, but saw none. After the boat was hoisted in we stood away N. by W. for the northernmost land we had in sight, which we were abreast of at three o'clock in the morning, having passed all the islands three or four hours before. This point I have named Point Hillock, on account of its figure. The land of this point is tolerably high, and may bo known by a round hillock or rock that appcare to be detached from the point, but I believe it joins to it. Betwead sefore the boats could place themselves, and therefore anchored in four fathoms about a mile from the shore, and then made tho signal for the boats to come on board, after which i went niysflf and buoyed the channel, which I found very narrow, and the harbour much smaller than I had l)een told, but very convenient for our purjx)ee. In the night, as it blew too fresh to break the ship loose to run into the harbour, we got down the topgallant yards, unbent the mainsail and sonu; of the small sails, got down the foretop-gallant mast, and the jib-boom and sprit-sail yard in, intending to lighten the ship forward as much as possible, in order to lay her ashore to come at the leak. The scurvy now began to make i(« appearatice among us, with many formidable symptoms. Our jioor Indian, Tupia, who had some time before complained that his gums were sore and swelled, and who had taken plentifully of our lemon juice by the -v geon's .iirection, had now liviJ> bitable 1770.] FIRST APPEARANCE OF SCURVY. »43 testimonies that the disease had made a .-'»pid progress, notwith- standing all our remedies, among whicli tUx iiark had been liberally administered. Mr. Green, our astronomer, was also declining; and these, among other circumstances, embittered tho delay which prevented our going ashore. In the morning of tho 17th, though the wind was still fresh, we ventured to weigh and push in for the harbour, but in doing this we twice ran the ship aground. The first time she went off without any trouble, but the second time sh*' stuck fast. Wo now got down the foreyard, forotopt>iasts, and looniH, and taking them overl)oard made a raft of them alongside of i\\v ship. 1'he tide was happily rising, and about one o'clock in the afternoon she floated. We soon warped her into the harbour, and having moored her alongside ot a steep bench to tho south, we got the anchors, cables, and all tho hawsers on shore before night. fl CHAFI'ER XII. TRAXHACnOSH WIMLR THK BHIP WAH HEfrfT omeil not to have Iti-eii frefjuentcd for some months. Tupia, who had on^ployetl himself in angling, and lived entirely upon what he caught, recovered in a surprising degree, but Mr. («reen still continued to \>o extremely ill. The next morning wo went early to work, and by four o'clock in the afternoo- had got out all tho >'oals, caat the moorings loone, and war{MMi tho ship u littlo higher up tho harltour to a place which I thought most convenient for laying her oiiliore in order to stop tho leak. IW'r draught of water forward was now seven fret nine inches, and alxtft thirteen feet si-x inelies. At eight o'chnk. irrai REPAIRS TO THE SHIP. MS it being high water, T hauled her bow close a«horc, but kept her Kteru ivlloat, ljecau8(» T was afraid of neaping her. It was, how- ever, neceHsary to lay the whole of her as near the ground as j)os8il)le. At two o'clock in the morning of the 22nd the tide left her, and gave ns an opfKirtunity to examine the leak, which we found to be at her floor heads, a little before the starboard fore-chains. Ill tliis place the rocks had made their M-ay through four planks, and even into the timbei-s; three more planks were much damaged, and the app''arance of these breacht>3 was very extraordinary. There was not a hplint.cr to be seen, but all was as ; aooth as if the whole had been cut away by an instrument. The timbers in this place were happily very close, and if the}- hail not, it would have Iwen absolutely impossible to have saved the ship. Hut after all, her preservation depended upon a circumstance still *r.Ore romnrkable. Indeed, one of the holes, which was big enough to have sunk us, if wo had had eight pumps instead of four, and been able tc. keep tiicm incessantly going, was in preat measure l)lugged up by a fragment of tlie rock, which, aft^-r having made the wound, was left sticking in it, so that the water which at first had gained tipon our pumps was what camo in at the interstices between tlm stone and the cdg<>s of the hole that received it. Early on the 21th the carp'^nters h«»gaii to repaii' tl>e sheathing under the larboard bow, '.vhi le -.»e fnui»d two planks cut about half through ; and in the meantime ^ sent a j.arty of men, under the direction of Mr. Gore, in searoli of refn-shuientfl for the sick. Tills party returned al>out noon with a few pjilm ra'itages and a bunch or two of wild platitaiit. The p!;tntains wen' the smHllest I had ever seen, and the pnip, though u was wf»ll tOMed, was full of snuiU stones. As I was walking this morning at a little distance from the ship 1 saw myself one of the animals*' which had been so oft«'n described. It was of n light mouse colour, and in size an«l shap returufd from iiauling the seine, with s ' tter success tlian before, for I was now able to distribute two junds ami a half to each man. The greens that had been gathered I ordered to l>e boiled among the peas, and they made an excellent mejw, which, with two copious supplies of fish, afforded us unspeakable refreshment. The next day, July the l.st, being Hunday, everybody had liberty to go a.shore, except one from each mess, who were again sent out with the seine. The seine was again e(pmlly successful, and the people who went up the country gave an account of having seen ^eviral animals, though none of them were to l)o caught. To-day at noon the thermometer in the sluuhj rose to ST", which is higher rhan it hath been on any day before in this plao**. In the morning four ut the natives came down to the sandy point July, mo.] NATIVES. •47 on the north side of the harbour, having along with (hcin a small woollen canoo with outriggors, in which tliey seemed to he tnniiloyed striking tibh, etc. Some were fcr going over in a boat to them, but this 1 would not Ru(fer, but let them alone without seeming to take any notice of tliem. At length two of them came ia the canoe so tu-ar the ship as to take some things we threw them. After thin they went awny, and brought ov(!r the other two, and camo again alongHide, nearer than they had done before, and took such trifles as we gavo them. After this tliey lamUxl close to the ship, and nil four went ashore, carrying tin ir arms Avith tliem. But Tujiia soon prevailed upon them to lay down their arms and come and sit down by him; after which moist of us went to them, made them again some presents, and stayed by them until dinner time, when vf made them understand that we were going to oat, and asked them by signals to go with uk ; but this they declined, and as soon us wo left them they went away in their cano**. One of these men was something above the middle age, the other three were young none of them were above five and a half feet high, and all their limbs proportionately small. They were wholly naked, their skins the colour of wootl soot, and this seemed to Iw their natural colour. Their hair was black, lank, and «POfi(»ed short, and neither woolly nor frizzled. Nor did they want Mi^ of their fore-teeth, as Dainpier ha.s mentioned those did he saw on the western side of this country. iSome jxvrt of tlieir botlies had been painted v/ith red, and one of them had his upper lip antl broft.st painted with streaks of white, which he called cnrhanda. Their features were far from being disagret'abh', their voices wen? soft and tunable, and they could ea.siiy repeat any word after us, but mother we nor Tupia could uiii; rstand one word they nuid. Oft the 1 4th two of the Indians came on boanl, but after a short stay went along the shore, a>ui applied themselves with great diligence to the striking of tish. Mr. Ooro, who went ou( this day with his gun, had the good fortujie to kill one of the animals whit'h huil hee«i ho much tht subject of our spwulation. In form it is most like the Jerboa, which it alB«> re8(nuble8 in its motion, a.s has l»e<)U ol)serv<\l aJrea«MiMi of Khem wmmtn, and, like tke men, fpiite nakod. IRkMe HMUMmb or ^ommI were wnry desirous al of linen were laid out to dry. Hero with the greatest obstinacy they again set tire to the grass, which I and some others who were present could not prevent, until I was obliged to tire a musket load of small shot at one of the ring- leaders, which sent them off. As we were apprised of this last attempt of theirs, we got the tire out before it got head, but the first spread like wililtire in the woods and grass. Notwithstanding my tirin^ \\ % .V o^ >> ■Si m.. I ^ o^ 152 ADVANTAGES OF THE COUNTRY. [1770. venomous, and somo harmless. There are no tame animals here except dogs, and of these we saw but two or three, which fre- quently came about the tents to i)ick up the scraps and bones that happened to lie scattered near them. There does not indeed seem to be many of any animal except the kangaroo ; we scarcely saw any other above once, but this we met with almost every time we went into the woods. Of land fowls we saw crows, kites, hawks, cockatoos of two sorts (one white and the other black), a very beautiful kind of lori- keet, some parrots, pigeons of two or three sorts, and several small birds not known in Europe. The water fowls are herons, whistling ducks (which perch, and, I believe, roost upon trees), wild geese, curlews, and a few others, but these do not abound. The face of the country, which has been occasionally mentioned before, is agree- ably diversified by hill and valley, lawn and wood. The soil of the hills is hard, dry, and stony, yet it produces coarse grass besides wood. The soil of the plains and valleys is in some places sand, and in some clay ; in some, also, it is rocky and stony, like the hills. In general, however, it is well clothed, and has at least the appearance of fertility. The whole country, both hill and valley, wood and plain, abounds with ant-hills, some of which are six or eight feet high, and twice as much in circumference. The trees here ai'e not of many sorts; the gum tree, which we found on the southern part of the coast, is the most common, but hero it is not so large. On each side of the river, through its whole course, there are man- groves in great numbers, which in some places extend a mile within the coast. The country is in all parts well watered, there being several fine rivulets at a small distance from each other, but none in the place where we lay — at least not during the time we were there, which was the dry season ; we were, however, well supplied with water by springs, whicli were not far off. In the morniug of the 6th we had a strong gale, so that, instead of weighing, we were obliged to veer away more cable and strike our topgallant yards. At low water, myself, with several of the officers, kept a lookout at the mast-head, to see if any passage could be discovered between the shoals ; but nothing was in view except breakers extending from the S. round by the E., as far as NW., and out to sea beyond the reach of our sight. These 1770.] BREAKERS AHEAD. 153 breakers, however, did not appear to be caused by one continued shoal, but by several, which lay detached from eacli other. On that which lay farthest to the eastward the sea broke very high, which made me think it was the outermost, for upon many of these within the breakers were inconsiderable, and from about half-ebb to half-llood they were not to be seen at all, which makes sailing among them still more dangerous, especially as the shoals here consist principally of coral rocks, which are as steep as a wall. Upon some of them, however, and generally at the north end, there are patches of sand, which are covered only at high water, and which are to be discerned at some distance. Being now convinced that there was no passage to sea but through the labyrinth formed by these shoals, I was altogether at a loss which way to steer, when the weather should permit us to get under sail. It was the master's opinion that we should beat back the way \ie came; but this would have been an endless labour, as the wind blew strongly from that quarter almost without inter- mission. On the other hand, if no passage can be found to the northward, we shall have to come back at last. On the 10th we judged ourselves to be clear of all danger, having, as we thought, a clear, open sea before us ; but this we soon found otherwise, and for that reason I called a headland, two leagues from us. Cape Flattery. It is a high promontory ; from this cape the mainland trends away NW. We steered along the shore NW. by W. till one o'clock, for what we thought the open channel, when the petty officer at the mast-head cried out that he sav land ahead, extending quite round to the islands that lay without us, and a large reef between us and them. Upon this I ran up to the mast-head myself, from whence I very plainly saw the reef, which was now so far to windward that we could not weather it ; but the land ahead, which he had supposed to be the main, appeared to me to be only a cluster of small islands. As soon as I got down from the mast-head, the master and some others went up, who all insisted that the land ahead was not islands, but the .nain ; and to make their report still more alarming, they said that they saw breakers all round us. In this dilemma we hauled ujwn a wind in for the land, and made the signal for the boat that was sounding ahead to come on board, but as she was far to lee- IS4 KEEPS AXD ShOALS. [1770. % I I I ward, we were obliged to edge away to take her up ; and soon after we came to an anchor, under a point of the main, in some- what less than iive fathoms, and at about the distance of a mile from the shore. Cape Flattery now bore SE., distant three leagues and a half. As soon as the ship was at anchor, I went asiiore upon the point, which is liigh, and afforded me a good view of the sea-coast, trending away NW. by W. eight or ten leagues, which, the weather not being very clear, was as far as I could see. Nine or ten small low islands and some shoals appeared oft" the coast. I saw also some large shoals between the main and the three high islands, without v.'hich I was clearly of opinion there were more islands, and not any part of the main. Except the point I was now upon, which I called Point Lookout, and Cape Flattery, the mainland to the northward of Cape Bedford is low, and chequered with white sand and green bushes for ten or twelve miles inland. On the north part of the reef, to the leeward, there is a low sandy island with trees upon it ; and upon the reef which we passed over we saw several turtle. We chased one or two, but having little time to spare, and the wind blowing fresh, we did not take any. About one o'clock we reached the island, and immediately ascended the highest hill, with a mixture of hope and fear, pro- portioned to the importance of our business and the uncertainty of the event. When I looked round, I discovered a reef of rocks lying between two and three leagues without the islands, and extend- ing in a line NW. and SE. farther than I could see, upon which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. This, however, made me think that there were no shoals beyond them, and I conceived hopes of getting without these, as I pei'ceived several breaks or openings in the reef, and deep water between that and the islands. I con- tinued upon this hill till sunset, but the weather was so hazy dur- ing the whole time that I came down much disappointed. After reflecting upon what I had seen, and comparing the intelligence I had gained with what I expected, I determined to stay upon the island all night, hoping that the morning might be clearer and afford me a more distinct and comprehensive view. Wc therefore took up our lodging under the shelter of a bush which grew upon the beach ; and at three in the morning, having sent the pinnace with one of the mates whom I liad brought out with me to sound 0. 1770.] A DANGEROUS COAST. 15s between the island and the reefs, and examine what appeai'ed to be a channel through them, I climbed the hill a second time, but to my great disappointment found the weather much more hazy than it had been the day before. As we saw no animals upon this place but lizards, I called it Lizard Island. At two in the afternoon, there being no hope of clear weather, we set out from Lizard Island to return to the ship, and in our way landed upon the low sandy island with trees upon it which we had remarked in our going out. Upon this island we saw an incredible number of birds, chiefly sea-fowl. We found also the nest of an eagle with young ones, which we killed, and the nest of some other bird, we knew not what, of a most enormous size. It was built with sticks upon the ground, and was no less than six and twenty feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches high. We found also that this place had been visited by tho Indians, probably to eat turtle, many of which we saw upon the island, and a great number of their shells, piled one upon another in difTerent places. To this spot we gave the name of Eagle Island, and after leaving it. we steered SW. directly for the ship, sounding all the way ; and we had never less than eight fathoms, nor more than fourteen, the same depth of water that I had found between this and Lizard Island. After well considering both what I had seen myself and the report of the master's, I found by experience that by keej)ing in with the mainland we should be in continued danger, besides the risk we should run of being locked in with shoals and reefs by not finding a passage out to leeward. In case we persevered in keeping the shore on board, an accident of this kind, or any other that might happen to the ship, would infallibly lose our passage to the East Indies this season, and might prove i^e ruin of both ourselves and the voyage, as we have now little niore than three months' provisions on board, and that at short allowance. Where- fore, after consulting with the officers, I resolved to weigh in tho morning, and endeavour to quit the coast altogether until such time as I found I could approach it with less danger. With this view we got under sail at daylight in the morning, and stood out NE. for the NW. end of Lizard Island, having Eagle Island to windward of us, and having the pinnace ahead 156 CO MP A RA TI VE SA FE T Y. [1770. sounding ; and here we found a good channel, wherein we had from nine to fourteen fathoms. We now took the pinnace in tow, know- ing that there were no dangers until we got out to the reefs. Our change of situation was now visible in every countenance, for it was most sensibly felt in every breast. We had been little less than three months entangled among shoals and rocks that every moment threatened us with destruction ; frequently passing our nights at anchor within hearing of the surge that broke over them, sometimes driving towards them even while our anchors were out, and knowing that if by any accident, to which an almost continual tempest exposed us, they should not hold, we must in a few minutes inevitably perish. But now, after having sailed no less than three hundred and sixty leagues, without once having a man out of the chains heaving the lead, even for a minute, which perhaps never happened to any other vessel, we found ourselves in an open sea with deep water, and enjoyed a flow of spirits which was equally owing to our late dangers and our present security. Yet the very waves, which by their swell convinced us that we had no rocks or shoals to fear, convinced us also that we could not safely put the same confidence in our vessel as before she had struck ; for the blows she received from them so widened her leaks that she admitted no less than nine inches water in an hour, which, considering the state of our pumps and the navigation that was still before us, would have been a subject of more serious consideration to people whose danger had not so lately been so much more imminent. CHAPTER XIII. THE SHIP IN DANGER OFF THE BARRIER REEFS— PASSAGE FROM PROVIDENTIAL CHANNEL TO ENDEAVOUR STRAITS. THE passage or channel through which wo passed into 1770. the open sea beyond the reef lies in la 14° 32' S., ^^K^'*- and may always be known by the three high islands within it, which I have called the Islands of Direction, because by these a stranger may find a safe passage through the reef quite to the main. As soon as we were without the reef, we brought; to, and having hoisted in the boats, we stood off and on upon a wind all night. At six next evening we shortened sail and brought the ship to, with her head to the NE. ; and at six in tie morning made sail and steered west, in order to get within siglit of land, that I might be sure not to overshoot the passage, if a passage there was, between this land and New Guinea. The large hollow sea we have now got into acquaints us with a circumstance we did not before know, which is that the ship hath received more damage than we were aware of, or could perceive when in smooth water ; for now she makes as much water as one pump will free, kept constantly at work. However, this was looked upon as trifling to the danger we had lately made an escape from. A little after noon saw the land from the mast- head bearing WSW., making high ; at two saw more land to the NW. of the former, making in hills like islands ; but we took it to bo a continuation of the mainland. An hour after this we saw a reef, between us and the land, extending away to the southward, and, as we thought, terminating here to the northward abreast of us ; but this was only an opening, for soon after we saw it extend away to the northward as far as we could distinguish anything. Upon this we hauled close upon a wind, which was now at ESE., with all the sail we could get. We had hardly trimmed our sails ill 158 A CRITICAL MOMENT. [1770. before the wind came to E. by N., which made our weathering the reef very doubtful, the northern point of which in sight at sunset still bore from us N. by W., distant about two leagues. However, this being the best tack to clear it, we kept standing to the northward, with all the sail we could set till midnight ; when, being afraid of standing too far in this direction, we tacked and stood to the southward, our run from sunset to this time being six leagues N. and N. by E. When we had stood aljout two miles SSE. it fell calm. We had sounded several times during the night, but had no bottom with one hundred and forty fathoms, neither had we any ground now with the same length of line ; yet, about four in the morning, we plainly heard the roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw it foaming to a ^'ast height, at not more than a mile's distance. Our distress now returned upon us with double force ; the waves which rolled in upon the reef carried us towards it very fast. We could reach no ground with an anchor, and had not a breath of wind for the sail. In this dreadful situation, no resource was left us but the boats ; and to aggravate our mis- fortune the pinnace was under repair. The longboat and yawl, however, were put into the water, and sent ahead to tow, which, by the help of our sweeps abaft, got the ship's head round to the northward ; which, if it could not prevent our destruction, might at least delay it. But it was six o'clock before this was effected, and we were not then a liundred yards from the rock, upon which the same billow which washed the side of the ship broke to a tremendous height the very next time it rose ; so that between us and destruction there was only a dreary valley, no wider than the base of one wave, and even now the sea under us was unfathom- able — at least no bottom was to be found with a hundred and twenty fathoms. During this scene of distress, the carpenter had found means to patch uji the pinnace ; so that she was hoisted out, and sent ahead, in aid of the other boats, to tow. But all our efforts would have been ineffectual, if, just at this crisis of our fate, a light air of wind liad not sprung up, so light, that at any other time we should not have observed it, but which was enough to turn the scale in our favour, and, in conjunction with the assistance which was afforded us by the boats, to give the ship a perceptible motion obliquely from the reef. Our hopes now 1770.] DANCERS OF THE FLOOD TIDE. »59 revived ; but in less than ten ininutes it was again a dead calm, and the ship was again driven towards the breakers, which were not now tAvo hundred yards distant. The same light breeze, how- ever, returned before we had lost all the ground it had enabled ua to gain, and lasted about ten minutes more. During this time we discovered a small opening iu the reef, at about the distance of a quarter of a mile. I immediately sent one of the mates to examine it, who reported that its breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but that within it there was smooth water. This discovery seemed to render our escape possible, and that was all, by pushing the ship through the opening, which was immediately attempted. It was uncertain indeed whether we could reach it ; but if we should succeed thus far, we made no doubt of being able to get through. In this, however, we were disappointed, for having reached it by the joint assistance of our boats and the breeze, we found that in the meantime it had become high water, and to our great surprise we met the tide of ebb rushing out of it like a mill-stream. We gained, however, some advantage, though in a manner directly contrary to our expectations : we found it impossible to go through the opening, but the stream that prevented us carried us out about a quarter of a mile. It was too narrow for us to keep in it longer; yet this tide of ebb so much assisted the boats that by noon we had got an offing of near two miles. Yet we could hardly flatter ourselves with hopes of getting clear, even if a breeze should spring up, as we were by this time embayed by the reef, and the ship, in spite of our endeavours, driving before the sea into the bight. The ebb had been in our favour, and we had reason to suppose the flood which was now made would be against us. The only hope we had was another o[)ening we saw about a mile to the westward of us, which I sent Lieutenant Hicks in the small boat to examine. On Friday the 17th, while Mr. Hicks was examining the open- ing, Ave struggled hard with the flood, sometimes gaining a little and at other times losing. At two o'clock Mr. Hicks returned with a favourable account of the opening. It was immediately re- solved to try to secure the ship in it. Narrow and dangerous as it was, it seemed to be the only means we had of saving her, as well as ourselves. A light breeze soon after sprung up at ENK, with i6o A COMMANDER'S DIFFICULTIES. ri770. which, the help of our boats, and a flood-tide, we soon entered the opening, and were hurried through in a short time by a rajjid tide like a mill-race, wliich kept us from driving against either side, though tlie channel was not more than a quarter of a mile broad, having two boats ahead of us sounding. Our depth of water was from thirty to seven fathoms ; very irregular soundings and foul ground until we had got quite within the reef, where we anchored in nineteen fathoms, a coral and slielly bottom. The channel we came in by, which I have named Providential Channel, bore ENE., distant ten or twelve miles, being about eight or nine leagues from the mainland. It is but a few days ago that I rejoiced at having got without the reef ; but that joy was nothing when compared to what I now felt at being safe at an anchor within it. Such are the vicissitudes attending this kind of service, and which m^st always attend an un- known navigation where one steers wholly in the dark without any manner of guide whatever. Were it not for the pleasure which naturally results to a man from his being the first discoverer, even were it nothing more than land or shoals, this kind of service would be insupportable, especially in far-distant parts like this, short of provisions and almost every other necessary. People will hardly admit of an excuse for a man leaving a coast unexplored he has once discovered. If dangers are his excuse, he is then charged with timorousness and want of perseverance, and at once pro- nounced to be the most unfit man in the world to be employed as a discoverer. If, on the other hand, he boldly encounters all the dangers and obstacles he meets with, and is unfortunate enough not to succeed, he is then charged with temerity and perhaps want of conduct. The former of these aspersions, I am confident, can never be laid to my charge ; and if I am fortunate to surmount all the dangers we meet wibh, the latter will never be brought in question, although I must own that I have engaged more among the islands and shoals upon this coast than perhaps in prudence I ought to have done with a single ship, and every other thing con- sidered. But if I had not, I should not have been able to give any better account of the one half of it than if I had never seen it. At best, I should not have been able to say whether it was mainland or islands ; and as to its produce, that we should have 1770.] YORK CAPE. i6i been totally ignorant of, as being insejjarable with tlio other ; and in this case it would have been far more satisfaction to me never to have discovered it. But it is time I should have done with this subject, which at best is but disagreeable, and which I was led into on reflecting on our late dangers. At six o'clock on the 18th we got under sail and stood away to the NW. A little before noon, we passed a low sandy island, which we loft on our starboard side, at the distance of two miles. Between us and the main were several shoals, besides the main or outermost reef, which we could see from the mast-head. At half an hour after six, we anchored in thirteen fathoms. The northernmost of the small islands seen at noon bore W. ^ S., distant three miles. These islands are distinguished in the chart by the name of Forbes' Islands, and lie about five leagues from the main, which here forms a high point that we called Bolt Head, from which the land trends more westerly, and is in that direction all low and sandy ; to the southward it is high and hilly, even near the sea. The mainland within the islands forms a point which I called Cape Grenville. It lies in lat. 11° 58', long. 217° 38'; and be- tween it and Bolt Head is a bay which I called Temple Bay. At the distance of nine leagues from Cape Grenville, in the direction of E. I N., lie some high islands, which I called Sir Charles Hardy's Isles ; and those which lie off the cape, I called Cockburn's Isles. At four o' 'ock p.m. we discovered some low islands and rocks bearing WNW. These islands, from the number of birds that I saw upon them, I called Bird Islands. Early next morning we made sail again, and steered NNW. by compass for the northernmost land in sight. The point of the main, which is the northern promontory of this country, I have named York Cape, in honour of his late Royal Highness the Duke of York. The land over and to the southward of this last point is rather low and very flat, as far inland as the eye could reach, and looks barren. To the southward of the cape, the shore forms a large open bay, which I called Newcastle Bay, wherein are some small, low islands and shoals, and the land all about it is very low, flat, and sandy. The land on the northern part of the cape is rather more hilly, and the shore forms some small bays, wherein (561) 1 1 l62 NEW SOUTH WALES. [1770. there appeared to be good anchorage, and the valleys appeared to bo tolerably well clothed with wood. At four o'clock we anchored about a mile and a half .)r two miles within the entrance in six and a half fathoms, clear ground, distance from the islands on each side of us one mile, the mainland extending away to the SW. Be- tween these two points we could see no land, so that wo were in great hopes that we had at last found out a passage into the Indian seas ; but in order to bo bett(*r informed I landed with a party of men, accompanied by 'Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, upon tho islands which lie at the SE. point of tho passage. Before and nfler we anchored, we saw a number of jjcople upon this island, arnicil in the same manner as all the others wo have seen, e> pt one man, who had a bow and a bundle of arrows — the first we have seen upon this coast. From the a))pearance of the people, wo expected they >70uld have opposed our landing ; but as we approached tho shore f,hey all made off, and left us in peaceable possession of as much of the island as served our purpose. After landing, I went up on the highest hill, which, however, was of no great height, yet no less than twice or thrice the height of the ship's mast-heads. From this hill no land could be seen between the SW. and \VS\V., so that I had no doubt of finding a channel through. The land to the N\V. of it consisted of a great number of islands of various extent and different heights, ranged one behind another, as far to the northward and westward as I could see, which could not be less than thirteen leagues. As I was now about to quit tho eastern coast of New Holland, which I had coasted from lat. 38" to this place, and which I am confident no European had ever seen before, I once more hoisted English colours, and though I had already taken possession of several particular parts, I now took possession of the whole eastern coast, from lat. 38° to this place, lat. lOi" S., in right of His Majesty King George the Third, by the name of New South Wales, with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and islands situated upon it. We then fired three volleys of small arms, which were answered by the same number from the ship. Having performed this ceremony upon the island, which we called Possession Island, we re-embarked in our boat, but a rapid ebb tide setting NE. made our return to the vessel very difiiicult and tedious. From the time of our last 1770.] NEIV HOLLAND AND NEW GUINEA. 163 coming among tlio sIioiiIh, wg constantly found a modorato tiflo, tho flood sotting to tho N\V. and tho ebl) to the 8E. At tliis place it is high water at the full and change of tho moon, about one or two o'clock, and tho water rises and falls perpendicularly about tw(!lvo feet. We saw smoke rising in many places from the adjacent lands 1 ' 'slands, as wo had done upon every part of tho coast, after our laf ' ■ oturn to it through the reef. We continued ai. anchor all night, and between seven and eight o'clock in tli-! morning we sav, three or four of the natives upon the beach gatlierinf shellfish. We discovered, by tho help of our glasses, that they v'-o women. At noon, iossession Island boro N. 53 E., distant four leagues. Tho western extremity of the mainland in sight appeared to be extremely low ; the south-west point of the largest island on tho north-west side of th • jiassage was distant eight miles, and this point I called Capo Cornwall. Souk; low lands lie about tho middh? of the passage, which I called Walliss Isles. On the 23rd a small island came in sight. Here we came to an anchor. Mr. Banks and I landed upon it, and found it to be mostly a barren rock frequented by birds, such as boobies, a few of which we shot, and occasioned my giving it the name of Booby Island. I made but very short stay at this island before I re- turned to the ship. In the meantime the wind had got to the SW,, and although it blew Ijut very faint, yet it was accom- panied with a swell from the same quarter. This, together with other concurring circumstances, left me no room to doubt that we had got to tho westward of Carpentaria, or the northern extremity of New Holland, and had now an open sea to the westward ; which gave me no small satisfaction, not only because the danger and fatigues of tho voyage were drawing near to an end, but by being able to prove that New Holland and New Guinea are two s parate lands or islands, which until this day hath been a doubt- ful point witli geographens. The north-iast entrance of this passage, or strait, lies in the lat. of 10° 39' S., and in the long, of 218° 3G' W. It is formed by the main or the northern extremity of New Holland on the SE., and by a congeries of islands, which I called the Prince of Wales's Islands, to the NW., and it is probable that those islands extend 164 ENDEAVOUR STRAITS. [177a quite to New Guinea. They diflfer very much both in height and circuit, and many of them seemed to be well clothed with herbage and wood. Upon most, if not all of them, we saw smoke, and therefore there can be no doubt of their being inhabited. It is also probable that among them there are at least as good passages as that we came through, perhaps better, though better would not need to be desired if the access to it from the eastward were less dangerous. That a less dangerous access may be discovered I think there is little reason to doubt, and to find it, little more seems to be necessary than to determine how far the principal or outer reef, which bounds the shoals to the eastward, extends towards the north ; which I would not have left to future navigators if I had been less harassed by danger and fatigue, and had had a ship in better condition for the purpose. To this channel, or passage, I have given the name of the ship, and called it Endeavour Strait. CHAPTER XIV. /• DEPARTURE FROM NEW SOUTH WALES— DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTKY, PEOPLE, ETC.— PASSAGE FROM NEW SOUTH WALES TO NEW GUINEA— PASSAGE FROM NEW GUINEA TO THE ISLAND OF SAVU. OF this country, its products, and its people, many 1770. particulars have already been related in the course August of the narrative, being so interwoven with the events as not to admit of a separation. I shall now give a more full and circum- stantial description of each, in which, if some things should happen to be repeated, the greater part will be found new. New Holland, or, as I have now called the eastern coast. New South Wales, is of a larger extent than any other country in the known world that does not bear the name of a continent. The length of coast along which we sailed, reduced to a straight line, is no less than twenty-seven degrees of latitude, amounting to near 2,000 miles, so that its square surface must be much more than equal to all Europe. To the southward of 33° or 34°, the land in general is low and level ; farther northward it is hilly, but in no part can be called mountainous ; and the hills and mountains, taken together, make but a small part of the surface in comparison with the valleys and plains. It is, upon the whole, rather barren than fertile ; yet the rising ground is chequered by woods and lawns, and the plains and valleys are in many places covered with herbage. The soil, however, is frequently sandy ; and many of the lawns, or savannas, are rocky and barren, especially to the northward, where, in the best spots, vegetation was less vigorous than in the southern part of the country ; the trees were not so tall, nor was the herbage so rich. The grass, in general, is high, but thin ; and the trees, wliere they are largest, are seldom less than forty feet asunder ; nor is the country inland, i66 DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. [177a as far as we could examine it, better clothed than the sea-coast. The banks of the bays are covered with mangroves to the distance of a mile within the beach, under which the soil is a rank mud, that is always overflowed by a spring tide. Farther in the country we sometimes met with a bog upon which the grass was very thick and luxuriant, and sometimes with a valley that was clothed with underwood. The soil in some parts seemed to be capable ot improvement, but the far greater part is such as can admit of no cultivation. The coast, at least that part of it which lies to the northward of 25° S., abounds with fine bays and har- bours, where vessels may lie in perfect security from all winds. If we may judge by the appearance of the country while we were there, which was in the very height of the dry season, it is well watered. We found innumerable small brooks and springs, but no great rivera These brooks, however, probably become large in the rainy season. Thirsty Sound was the only place where fresh water was not to V)e procured for the ship, and even there one or two small pools were found in the woods, though the face of the country was everywhere intersected by salt creeks and mangrove land. The woods do not produce any great variety of trees ; there are only two or three sorts that can be called timber. The largest is the gum-tree, which grows all over the country. The wood of this tree is too hard and ponderous for most common uses. The tree which resembles our pines I saw nowhere in per- fection but in Botany Bay. This wood, as I have before observed, is something of the same nature as American live oak — in short, most of the large trees in this country are of a hard and ponderous nature, and could not be applied to many purposes. Here are several sorts of the palm kind, mangrove, and several other sorts of small trees and shrubs quite unknown to me, besides a very great number of plants hitherto unknown ; but these things are wholly out of my way to describe, nor will this be of any loss, since not only plants, but everything that can be of use to the learned world, will be very accurately described by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. The land naturally produces hardly anything fit for man to eat, and the natives know nothing of cultivation. There are, indeed, growing wild in the wood a few sorts of fruit (the [177a oast. ;ance mud, I the 8 was t was to be IS can which 1 har- is. ile we I, it is prings, )ecome place d even igh the ks and ; there . The r. The lommon in per- jserved, n short, nderous [ere are sorts of ry great 3 wholly inco not learned and Dr. g fit for . There ruit (the _ — . . ^^^tejSfe ^- •^^^^^KmfJ' afv? -irsr-^^ •I^f3isaij^^ e>? ■ -^'«'^' 1 I. mmt 1770.] ITS ANIMALS. 167 most of them unknown to us), which when ripe do not eat amiss, one soi't especially, which wo called apples, being about the size of a crab-api)lc. It is black and pulpy when ripe, and tastes like a damson ; it hath a largo hard stone or kernel, and grows on trees or shrubs. In the northern parts of the country, as about Endeavour River, and probably in many other places, the boggy or watery lands produce tare or cocos, which, when properly cultivated, are very good roots, without which they are hardly eatable. The tops, however, make very good greens. Land animals are scarce, so far as we know confined to a very few species ; all that we saw I have before mentioned. The sort which is in the greatest plenty is the kangaroo or kanguru, so called by the natives. We saw a good many of them about En- deavour Kiver, but killed only three, which we found very good eating. Here are likewise lizards, snakes, scorpions, centipedes, etc., but not in any plenty. Tame animals they have none but dogs, and of these we saw but one, and therefore they must be ve y scarce ; probably they eat them faster than they breed them. W e should not have seen this one had he not made us frequent visits while we lay in Endeavour River. The land fowls are bustards, eagles, hawks, crowp, such as wo have in England; cockatoos of two sorts, white and brown; very beautiful birds of the parrot kind, such as lorikeets, etc. ; pigeons, doves, quails, and several sorts of smaller birds. The sea and water fowls are herons, boobies, noddies, gulls, curlews, ducks, pelicans, etc. ; and when Mr. Banks and Mr. Gore were in the country, at the head of Endeavour River, they saw and heard in the night great numbers of geese. The sea is indifferently well stocked with fish of various sorts, such as sharks, dogfish, rock- fish, mullets, breams, cavallies, mackerel, old wives, leather jackets, five fingers, sting rays, whij) rays, etc., all excellent in their kind. The shellfish are, oysters of three or four sorts — namely, rock- oysters and mangrove-oysters (which are small), pearl-oysters and mud-oysters (these last are the best and largest I ever saw), cockles and clams of several sorts (many of those that are found upon the reefs are of a prodigious size), crayfish, crabs, mussels, and a variety of other sorts. Here are also upon tho shoals and i68 ITS INHABITANTS. \yno. i 1 ' reefs great numbers of the finest green turtle in the world ; and in the river and salt creeks are some alligators. The natives of this country are of a middle fctature, straight bodied and slender limbed ; their skins the colour of wood soot ; their hair mostly black, some lank and others curled — they all wear it cropped sliort ; their beards, which are generally black, they like- wise crop short, or singe off. Their features are far from being disagreeable, and their voices are soft and tunable. They wear as ornaments necklaces made of shells ; bracelets or hoops about their arms, made mostly of hair twisted, and made like a cord-hoop — these they wear tight about the upper parts of their arms ; and some have girdles made in the same manner. The men wear a bone, about three or four inches long and a finger thick, run through the bridge of their nose. They like- wise have holes in their ears for ear-rings, but we never saw them wear any. Neither are all the other ornaments worn in common, for we have seen as many without as with them. Some of these we saw on Possession Island wore breastplates, which we supposed were made of mother-of-pearl shells. Many of them paint their bodies and faces with a sort of white paste or pigment. They appeared to have no fixed habitations, for we saw nothing like a town or village in the whole country. Their houses — if houses they may be called — seem to be formed with less art and industry than any we had seer, except the wretched hovels at Tierra del Fuego, and in some respects they are inferior even to them. At Botany Bay, where they were best, they were just high enough for a man to sit upright in, but not large enough for him to extend himself in his whole length in any direction. They are built with pliable rods about as thick as a man's finger, in the form of an oven, by sticking the two ends into the ground, and then covering them with palm leaves and broad pieces of bark. The door is nothing but a large hole at one end, opposite to which the fire is made, as we perceived by the a.shes. Under these houses, or sheds, they sleep, coiled up with their heels to their head ; and in this position one of them will hold three or four persons. As we advanced northward, and the climate became 1770.J JTS MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 169 warmer, we found these sheds still more slight. They were built, like the others, of twigs, and covered with bark ; but none of them were more than four feet deep, and one side was entirely open. The close side was always opposed to the course of the prevailing wind, and opposite to the open side was the fire, pro- bably more as a defence from the mosquitoes than the cold. Under these hovels it is probable that they thrust or'y their heads and the upper part of their bodies, extending their feet towards the tire. They were set up occasionally by a wandering horde in any place that would furnish them for a time with subsistence, and left behind them when, after it was exhausted, they wont away ; but in places where they remained only for a night or two, they slept without any shelter except the bushes or grass, which is here near two feet high. We observed, however, that though the sleeping huts which we found upon the main were always turned from the prevailing wind, those upon the islands were turned towards it, which seems to be a proof that they have a mild season here, during which the sea is calm. Their canoes are as mean as can be conceived, especially to the southward, where all we saw were made of one piece of the bark of trees about twelve or fourteen feet long, drawn or tied together at one end. As I have before made mention, these canoes will not carry above two people — in general there is never more than one in them ; but, bad as they are, they do very well for the purpose they apply them to, better than if they were larger, for as they draw but little water they go in them upon the mud-banks, and pick up shell fish, etc., without going out of the canoe. The few canoes we saw to the northward were made out of a log of wood hollowed out, about fourteen feet long and very narrow, with outriggei's ; these will carry four people. During our whole stay in Endeavour E-iver we saw but one canoe, and had great reason to think that the few people that resided about that place had no more ; this one served them to cross the river and to go a-fishing in, etc. They attend the shoals and flats every day at low water, to gather shellfish, or whatever they can find to eat, and have each a little bag to put what they get in ; this bag is made of network. They have not the least knowledge of iron or any other metal that we I70 ITS FERTILITY. [177C know of. Tlieir working tools must be made of stone, bone, and shells. Bad and mean as their canoes are, they at certain seasons of the year, so far as we know, go in them to the most distant islands which lie upon the coast, for wo never landed upon one but we saw signs of people having been there before. We were surprised to find houses, etc., upon Lizard Island, which lies five leagues from the nearest part of the main, a distance we before thought they could not have gone in their canoes. The coast of this country — at least so much of it as lies to the northward of 25° of latitude — abounds with a great number of fine bays and harbours, which are sheltered from all winds; but the country itself, so far as we know, doth not produce any one thing that can become an article in trade to invite Europeans to fix a settlement upon it. However, this eastern side is not that barren and miserable country that Dampier and others have described the western side to be. We are to consider that we see this country in the pure state of nature. The industry of man has had nothing to do with any part of it ; and yet we find all such things as nature hath bestowed upon it in a flourishing state. In this extensive country it can never be doubted that most sorts of grain, fruit, roots, etc., of every kind would flourish were they once brought hither, planted, and cultivated by the hands of industry ; and here is provender for more cattle, at all seasons of the J ear, than can ever be brought into the country. When one considers the proximity of this country with New Guinea, New Britain, and several other islands which produce cocoa-nuts and many other fruits proper to the support of man, it seems strange that they should not long ago have been transplanted here. From what I have said of the natives of New Holland they may appear to some to be the most wretched people upon earth ; but in reality they are far happier than we Europeans, being wholly unacquainted not only with the superfluous but with the necessary conveniences so much sought after in Europe. They are happy in not knowing the use of them. They live in a tran- quillity which is not disturbed by the inequality of condition. The earth and sea of their own accord furnish them with all things necessary for life. They covet not magnificent houses, household 1770.] ITS CLIMATE. 171 stuff, etc. Thuy live in a warm and fine climate, and enjoy wholesome air, so that they have very little need of clothing ; and this they seem to be fully sensible of, for many to whom we gave cloth, etc., left it carelessly upon the sea beach and in the woods, as a thing they had no manner of use for. In sliort, thoy seemed to set no value upon anything we gave them, nor would they ever part with anything of their own for any one article we could offer them. This, in my opinion, argues that they think themselves provided with all the necessaries of life, and that they have no superfluities. In the afternoon of Thursday, August 23rd, after leaving Booby Island, we steered WNW. On the 25th we had no land in sight ; but about two miles to the southward of us lay a large shoal, upon which the sea broke with great violence. Our depth of water, from the time we weighed till now, was nine fathoms, but it soon shallowed to seven fathoms ; and at half an hour after one, having run eleven miles between noon and that time, the boat which was ahead made the signal for shoal water. We im- mediately let go an anchor, and brought the ship up with all the sails standing, for the boat having just been relieved was at but a little distance. Upon looking out from the ship we saw shoal water almost all around us, both wind and tide at the same time setting upon it. The ship was in six fathoms ; but upon sounding round her, at the distance of half a cable's length, we found scarcely two. This shoal reached from the east, round hy the north and west, as far as the south-west, so that there was no way for us to get clear but that by which wo came. This was another hair's-breadth escape, for it was near high water, and there ran a short cockling sea, which mu.st very soon have bulged the ship if she had struck ; and if her direction had been half a caV^le's length more either to the right or left, she must have struck before the signal for the shoal was made. The shoals which, like these, lie a fathom or two under water are the most dangerous of any, for they do not discover themselves till the vessel is just upon them, and then, indeed, the water looks brown, as if it reflected a dark cloud. The sea in many places here is covered with a kind of brown scum, such as sailors generally call spawn. Upon our 172 JTS VEGETATION. [1770. Sept. 6rst seeing it it alarmed us, thinking we were among shoals ; but we found the same depth of water where it was as in other places. Neither Mr. Banks nor Dr. Solander could tell what it was, although they had some of it to examine. On the 3)d of September, at daybreak, we saw the land extending from N. by E. to SE. at about four leagues' distance ; and we then kept standing in for it with a fresh gale at ESE. and E. by S. till nine o'clock, when, being within about three or four miles of it, and in three fathoms water, wo brought to. The piiniace being hoisted out, I set off from the ship with the boat's crew, having a mind > land once in this country before wo quit it altogether, which 1 i now determined to do without delay, for I find that it is only sji .aling time to little purpose and carry- ing us far out of our way staying upon this coast, which is so shallow that we can hardly keep within sight of land. Tlie land is very low, like every other part of the coast ro have seen here. It is thick and luxuriously clothed with woods and verdure, all of whicli appear green and llouribiiing. Here were cocoa-nut trees, bread-fruit trees, and plantain trees ; but we saw no fruit but on the former, and that was small and green. The other trees, shrubs, plants, etc., were likewise such as is common in the South Sea Islands and in New Holland. Upon my return to the ship we hoisted in the boat and made sail to the westward, with a design to leave the coast altogether. This, however, was contrary to the inclination and opinion of some of the officers, who would have had me send a party of men ashore to cut down the cocoa-nut trees for the sake of the nuts — a thing that I think no man living could have justified ; for as the natives had attacked us for mere landing without taking away one thing, certainly they would have made a vigorous effort to have defended their property, in which case many of them must have been killed, and perhaps some of our own people too, and all this for two or three hundred green cocoa-nuts, which, when wo had got them, would have done us little service. Besides, nothing but the utmost necessity would have obliged me to have taken this method to come at refreshments. It is true I might have gone farther along the coast to the northward and westward until we had found a place where the 1770.] NECESSITY OF REPAIRS. 173 ship could lie so near tho Hlioro as to cover the people with her guna when landed ; but it is very probable that before we had found such a place we should have been carried so far to the west as to have been obliged to have gone to Batavia by the way of the Moluccas, and on the north side of Java, where we were all utter strangers. This I did not think was so safe a passage as to go to the south of Java and through the Straits of Sunda, the way I propose to myself to go. Besides, as the ship is leaky, we are not yet sure whether or not we shall not be obliged to heave hor down to Batavia. In this case it becomes the more necessary that we should make the best of our way to that place. We made sail, from noon on Monday the 3rd to noon on Tuesday the 4th, standing to the westward, and all the time kept in sounding.s, having from fourteen to thirty fathoms — not regular, but sometimes more, sometimes les.s. At sunset on the 9th we saw the appearance of very high land bearing NW. In the morn- ing of the 10th we saw clearly that what had appeared to bo land the night before was Timor. We continued our course, with little variation, till nine o'clock in the morning of the 16th, when we saw the small island calletl Rotte ; and at noon, the island Semau,* lying off the south end of Timor, bore NW. I was strongly importuned by some of my officers to go to the Dutch settlement at Concordia, on this island, for refreshments ; but this I refused to comply with, knowing that the Dutch look with a jealous eye upon all Europeans that come among these islands, and our necessities were not so great as to oblige me to put into a place where I might expect to be but indifferently treated. Being clear of all the islands which are laid down in the maps we had on board, between Timor and Java, wo steered a west course till six o'clock the next morning, when we unex- pectedly saw an island bearing WSW., and at first I thought we had made a new discovery. We steered directly for it, and by ten o'clock were close in with the north side of it, where we saw houses, cocoa-nut trees, and, to our very agreeable surprise, numerous flocks of sheep. This was a temptation not to be re- sisted by people in our situation, especially as many of us were in • Belonging to tlio Dutch. 174 DUTCH COLOURS, [1770. a bad state of health, and many still repining at my not having touched at Timor. It was therefore soon determined to attempt a commerce with peoplo who appeared to be so well able to supply our many necessities, and remove at once the sickness and dis- content tliat had got footing among us. The pinnace was hoisted out, and Lieutenant Gore sent to see if there was any convenient place to land, taking with him some trifles as presents to the natives, if any of them should appear. While he was gone we saw from the ship two men on horseback, who seemed to be riding upon the hills for their amusement, and often stopped to look at the ship. By this we knew that the place had been settled by Europeans, and hoped that the many disagreeable cir- cumstances which always attend the first establishment of com- merce with savages would be avoided. As soon as Mr. Gore landed he was met on the beach by several people, both horse and foot, who gave him to understand that there was a bay to leeward where we could anchor, and likewise got refreshments. Upon Mr. Gore's return with this intelligence we bore away for the bay, in which we anchored at seven o'clock in thirty-eight fathoms water, clean sandy bottom. Two hours before wo anchored we saw Dutch colours hoisted in a village which stands about a mile inland, and at daylight in the niorning the same colours were hoisted on the beach abreast of the ship. By this I was no longer in doubt that hero was a Dutch settlement, and accordingly sent Lieutenant Gore 0:1 shore to wait upon the governor, or chief person residing there, to acquaint him with the reasons that induced us to touch at this island. Upon Mr. Gore's landing we could perceive that he was received by a guard of the natives, and not Dutch troops, and conducted up to the village where the colours were hoisted last night. Some time after this I received a message from him, acquainting me that he was there with the king of the island, who had told him that ho could not supply him with anything without leave from the Dutch governor, who resided at another jiart of the island, but that he had sent to acquaint him of our arrival and request. On Wednesday the 10th the Dutch governor and king of this part of the island, with his attendants, came on board with Mr. 1770.] LANDING IN JAVA. 175 Gore, lie having left two gentlemen ashore as hostages. We entertained them at dinner in the best manner we could, gave them plenty of good liquor, made them some considerable presents, ard at their going away saluted them with nine guns. In return for these favours they made many fair promises that we should be immediately supplied with everything we wanted at the same pricf the Dutch East India Company had it; and that in the mrrning buffaloes, hogs, sheep, etc., should be down on the beach for us to look at, and agree upon a price. I was not at all at a loss for interpreters, for both Dr. Solander and Mr. Sporing under- stood Dutch enough to keep up a conversation with the Dutch- man ; and several of the natives could speak Portuguese, which language two or three of my people understood. In the morning of the 19th I went ashore to return the king's visit ; but my chief business was to procure some of the buffaloes, sheep, and fowls which we had been told should be driven down to the beach. We were greatly mortified to find that no steps had been taken to fulfil this promise. We told them that we had in the boat goods of various kinds, which we proposed to barter for such refreshments as they would give us in exchange, and desired leave to bring them on shore, which being granted, • ' y were brought ashore accordingly. We then attempted to settle the price of the buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and other commodities which we proposed to purchase, and for which we were to pay in money ; but as soon as this was mentioned Mr. Lange left us, telling us that these preliminaries must be settled with the natives. He said, however, that he had received a letter from the governor of Concordia in Timor, the purport of which he would communi- cate to us when he returned. As the morning was now far advanced, and we were very unwilling to return on board and eat salt provisions, when so many delicacies surrounded us ashore, we petitioned his majesty for liberty to purchase a small hog and some rice, and to employ his subjects to dress them for u.s. He answered very graciously that if we coul'1 eat victuals dressed by his subjects, which ho could scarcely suppose, he would do himself the honour of enter- taining us. We expressed our gratitude, and immediately sent on board for liijuora 176 DIFFICULTIES OF TRADING. [1770. About five o'clock dinner was ready. It was seryed in six- and-thirty dishes, or rather baskets, containing alternately rice and pork ; and three bowls of earthenware, filled with the liquor in which the pork had been boiled. These were ranged upon the floor, and mats laid round them for us to sit upon. We were then conducted by turns to a hole in the floor, near which stood a man with water in a vessel, made of the leaves of the fan-palm, who assisted us in washing our hands. When this was done we placed ourselves round the victuals. We made a most luxurious meal. We thought the pork and rice excellent, and the broth not to be despised ; but the spoons, which were made of leaves, were so small that few of us had patience to use them. We stayed at the king's palace all the afternoon, and at last were obliged to return on board without doing anything further than a promise of having some buffaloes in the morning, which we had now no great reason to rely on. In the morning I went on shore again, and w^as shown one small buffalo, which they asked five guineas for. I offered three, which the man told mo he would gladly take, and sent a message to the king to let him know what I had off'ered. The messenger soon returned, and let me know that I could not have it under five guineas ; and this I refused to give, knowing it was not worth one-fifth part of the money. But this, my refusal, had like to have overset all we had before done, for soon after about a hundred men, some armed with muskets, others with lances, came down to tlie landing-place. Besides the officer that commanded this party, there came along with them a man who ppoko Portuguese, and I believe was born of Portuguese parents. The man is here, as we afterwards under- stood, a.s an assistant to the Dutch factor. He delivered to me the king's order, or rather those of the Dutch factor, the purport of which was that we were to stay no longer than this day, pre- tending that the people would not trade with us because we wanted their provisions for nothing, etc. ; whereas the natives showed the greatest inclination imaginable to supply us with whatever they had, and were far more desirous of goods than money, and were, before this man came, selling us fowls and syrup as fast as they could bring these things down. From this and other circumstances we wore well assured tliat this was all 1770,] REFRESHMENTS PROCURED. 177 the Dutchman's doing, in order to extort from us a sum of money to put into his own pocket. There happened to be an old raja at this time upon the beach, whose interest I had secured in the morning by presenting him with a spyglass. This m vn I now took by the hand and presented him with an old broadsword. This effectually secured him in our interest, for the moment he got it he began to flourish it over the old Portuguese, and made him and the officer commmanding the party to sit down at his back. Immediately after this, trade was restored again for fowls, etc., with more spirit than ever ; but before I could begin a trade for buffaloes, which was what we most wanted, I was obliged to give ten guineas for two, one of which Aveighed only 160 pcuads. After this I bought seven more at a more reasonable price, one of which we lost after he was paid for. I might now have purchased as many as I pleased, for they now drove them down to the water side by herds. Most of the buffaloes that we bought, after our friend the prime minister had procured us a fair market, were sold for a musket apiece; and at this price we might have bought as many as would have freighted our ship. The refreshments which we procured here consisted of nine buffaloes, six sheep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, a few limes, and some cocoa-nuts ; many dozen of eggs, half of which, how- ever, proved to be rotten ; a little garlic, and several hundred gallons of palm-syrup. (Mil) 12 CHAPTER XV. THE RUN FROM THK ISLAND OF SAVU TO BATAVIA— TRANSACTION'S AT BATAVIA WHILE THK SHIP WAS REFITTING. 1770. Sept. I N the morning of Friday, the 21st of September, we got under sail and stood away to the westward. We steered NW, all day on the 28th, in order to make the land of Java, and at noon on the 29th our latitude by observation was 9° 31' S., long. 254° 10' W. ; and in the morning of the 30th I took into my possession the log-book and journals, at least all I could find, of the officers, petty officers, and seamen, and enjoined them secrecy with respect to where thoy had been. At seven in the evening, being in the latitude of Java Head, and not seeing any land, I concluded that we were too far to the west- ward ; I therefore hauled up ENE., having before steered N. by E. In the night wo had thunder and lightning ; and about twelve o'clock, by the light of the flashes, we saw the land bearing east. I then tacked and stood to the SW. till four o'clock in the morning of the 1st of October ; and at six, Java Head, or the west end of Java, bore SE. by E., distant five leagues. Soon after we saw Prince's Island, bearing E. \ S. ; and at ten, the island of Kra- katoa, bearing NE. Krakatoa is a remarkably high-peaked island, and at noon it bore N. 40 E., distant seven leagues. At four o'clock in the morning of the 2nd wo fetched close in with the coast of Java, in fifteen fathoms ; we then stood along the coast, and early in the forenoon I sent the boat ashore to try if she could procure some fruit for Tupia, who was very ill, and some grass for the buffiiloes that were still alive. In an hour or two she returned with four cocoa-nuts and a small bunch of plantains, which had been purchased for a shilling, and some herbage for the cattle, which the Indians not only gave us, but assisted our people to cut. October. 1770.] DUTCH INTERROGATIONS. 179 Having made several attempts to sail with a wind that would not stem the current, and as often come to an anchor, a proa came alongside of us in the morning of the 5th, in which was a Dutcli officer, who sent me down a printed paper in English, duplicates of which he had in other languages, particularly in French and Dutch, all regularly signed, in the name of the Governor and Council of the Indies, by their secretary. It contained nine questions, very ill expressed, in the following terras : — " 1. To what nation the ship belongs, and its name ? " 2. If it comes from Europe, or any other place % " 3. From what place it lastly departed from ? " 4. Whereunto designed to go ? "5. What and how many ships of the Dutch Company by departure from the last shore there layed, and their names ? " 6. If one or more of these ships in company with this, is departed for this, or any other place ? " 7. If during the voyage any particularities is liappened or seen? " 8. If not any ships in sea, or the Straits of Sunda, have seen or hailed in, and which ? " 9. If any other news worth of attention, at the place from whence the ship lastly departed, or during the voyage, is happened % " Batavia, in the Castle. " By order of the Governor-General, and the Counsellors of India, "J. Bkaxdeu Buxgl, Sec." At ten o'clock the same morning we weighed, with a light breeze at SW., but did little more than stem the current; and about two o'clock anchored again under Bantam Point, where we lay till nine. A light breeze then springing up at SK, we weighed and stood to the eastward till ten o'clock the next morning, when tlio current obliged us arrain to anchor in twenty-two fathoms, Pulababi bearing E. by S. A S., distant between tliree and four miles. Having alternately weighed and anchored several times, till four in the afternoon of the 7th, we then stood to the eastward, with a very faint breeze at NE., f.nd passed Wapping Island, and the first island to the eastward of it ; when the wind dying away, we were carried by the current between the first and second of the i8o ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA. [1770. m islands that lie to the eastward of Wapping Island, where we were obliged to anchor in thirty fathoms, being very near a ledge of rocks that run out from one of the islands. At two the next morning we weighed with the land wind at south, and stood out clear of the shoal ; but before noon were obliged to come to again in twenty- eight fathoms, near a small island among those that are called the Thousand Islands, which we did not find laid down in any chart. Pulo Pare at this time bore ENE., distance between six and seven miles. On Wednesday the 10th, according to our reckoning, but by the people here Thursday the 11th, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored ir. Batavia Road, where we found the Ilarcourt India- man from England, two English country ships, thirteen sail of large Dutch ships, and a number of small vessels. As soon as we anchored, I sent Lieutenant Hicks ashore to acquaint the governor of our arrival, and to make an excuse for not saluting ; as we could only do it with three guns, I thought it was better let alone. As soon ..s the boat was dispatclied, the carpenter delivered me an account of the defects of the ship, of which the following is a copy :-— "Tlie defects of His Majesty's bark Endeavour, Lieutenant James Cook, Commander. " The ship very leaky, as she makes from twelve to six inches water an hour, occasioned by her main keel being wounded in mpny places, and the scarfs of her stern being very opeiL The false keel gone beyond the midships from forward, and perhaps farther, as I had no opportunity of seeing for the water when hauled ashore for repairing. Wounded on the larboard side under the main channel, where I imagine the greatest leak is, but could not come at it for the water. One pump on the larboard side useless; the others decayed within an inch and a half of the bore. Otherwise masts, yards, boats, and hull, in pretty good condition." As it was the universal opinion that the ship could not safely proceed to Europe without an examination of her bottom, I deter- mined to apply for leave to heave her down at this place ; and as I understood that it would be necessary to make this application in writing, I drew up a request, and the next morning, having got it translated into Dutch, we all went ashore. 1770.] FRIENDL Y RECEPTION. i8i We repaired immediately to the house of Mr. Leith, the only Englishman of any credit who is resident at this place. He received us with great politeness, and engaged us to dinner. To this gentle- man we applied for instructions how to provide ourselves with lodgings and necessaries while we should stay ashore, and he told us that there was a hotel, or kind of inn, kept by the order of government, where all merchants and strangers were obliged to reside. At the hotel, therefore, beds were immediately hired, and word was sent that we should sleep there at night. At five o'clock in the afteriioon I was introduced to the governor-general, who received nie very courteously. He told me that I should have everything I wanted. About nine o'clock in the evening we had much rain, with some very heavy claps of thunder ; the lightning carried away a Dutch Indiaman's main-mast by the deck, and sjjlit it, the main-topmast, and topgallant-mast all to shivers. She had had an iron spindle at the main-topgallant mast-head which had first attracted the lightning. The ship lay about two cable lengths from us, and we were struck at the same time, and in all probability we should have shared the same fate as the Dutchman, had it not been for the electrical chain which we had but just before got up. This carried the lightning or electrical matter over the side clear of the ship. The shock was so great as to shake the whole ship very sensibly. This instance alone is sufficient to recommend these chains to all ships whatever, and that of the Dutchman ought to caution people from having iron spindles at their mast-heads. The next morning I attended at the council-chamber, and was told that I should have everything I wanted. In the meantime, the gentlemen ashore agreed with the keeper of the hotel for their lodging and board, at the late of two rix-dollars, or nine shillings sterling, a day for each ; and as there were five of them, and they would probably have many visitors from the ship, he agreed to keep them a separate table, upon condition that they should pay one rix-dollar for the dinner of every stranger, and another for his supjier and bed, if he should sleep ashore. Under this stipulation they were to be furnished with tea, coffee, punch, pipes and tobacco, for themselves and their friends, as much as they could consume ; l82 FATAL EFFECTS OF THE CLIMATE. [177a they were also to pay half a rupee, or one shilling and threepence, a day for each of their servants. They soon learned that tht rates were more than double the common charges of board and imaging in the town, and their table, though it had the appearance of magnificence, was wretchedly served. Their dinner consisted of one course of fifteen dishes, and their supper of one course of tJiirteen, but nine or ten of them con- sisted of bad poultry, variously dressed, and often served up the second, third, and even the fourth time. The same duck having appeared more than once roasted, found his way again to the table as a fricassee, and a fourth time in the form of forced meat. It was not long, however, before they learned that this treatment was only by way of essay, and that it was the invariable custom of the house to supply all strrngers, at their first coming, with such fare as could be procured for the least money, and consequently Avould produce the most gain ; that if either through indolence or good- nature they were content, it was continued for the benefit of the host, but tha<- if they complained, it was gradually amended till they were satisfied. The expenses that would be incurred by repairing and refitting the ship rendered it necessary for me to take up money in this place, which I imagined might be done without difJiculty. But 1 found myself mistaken ; for after the most diligent inquiry, I could not find any private person that had ability and inclination to advance the sum that I wanted. In this difficulty I applied to the governor himself, by a written request, in consequence of which the shebander had orders to supply me with what money I should require out of the Company's treasury. By this time, having been here only nine days, we began to feel the fatal eflfects of the climate and situation. Tupia, after the flow of spirits which the novelties of the place i)roduced upon his first landing, sunk on a sudden, and grew every day worse and worse. Taycto was seized with an inflanniiation u])on his lungs, Mr. Banks's two servants became very ill, and himself and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers. In a few days almost every person both on board and ashore was sick ; affected, no doubt, by the low swampy situation of the place, and the numberless dirty canals which intersect the town in all directions. On the 26th I 1770.] DEATH OF THE SURGEON. 183 set up the teat for the reception of the ship's company, of whom there was but a small number able to do duty. Poor Tupia, of whoso life we now began to despair, and who till this time had continued ashore with Mr. Banks, desired to be removed to the ship, where, ho said, he should breathe a freer air than among the numerous houses which obstructed it ashore. On board the ship, liowever, he could not go, for she was unrigged, and preparing to be laid down at the carcening-place ; but on the 28th, Mv. Banks went with him to Cooper's Island, or, as it is called here, Kuypor, where she lay, and as he seenu'd pleased with the spot, a tent was there pitched for him. At this place botli the sea breeze and the land breeze blew directly over him, and he expressed great satis- faction in his situation. Mr. Banks, whose humanity kept him two days with this poor Indian, returned to the town on the 30th, and the fits of his intermittent, which was now become a regular tertian, wei'e so violent as to doj)rive him of his senses while they lasted, and leave him so weak that he was scarcely able to crawl downstairs. At this time. Dr. Solander's disorder also inci'eased, and Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, was confined to his bed. On the 5tli of Novemlier, after many delays in conse- quence of the Dutch shi2)s coming alongside the wharfs to load pepper, the ship was laid down ; and the same day, Mr. Monk- house, our surgeon, a sensible, skilful man, fell the first sacrifice to this fatal country, a loss which was greatly aggravated by our situa- tion. Dr. Solander was just able to attend his funeral, but Mr, Banks was confined to his bed. Our distress was now very great, and the prospect before us discouraging in the highest degree. Our danger was not such as we could surmount by any efforts of our own ; courage, skill, and diligence were all equally ineffectual, and death was every day making advances upon us, where we could neithsr resist nor fly. Malay servants were hired to attend the sick, but they had so little sense either of duty or humanity that they could not be kept within call, and the patient was frequently obliged to get out of bed to seek them. On the 9th we lost our poor Indian boy Tayeto, and Tupia was so nmch affected that it was doubted whether he would survive till the next day. In the meantime, the bottom of the ship being examined, it was found to be in worse condition than we apprehended. A great Nov. 1 84 DEATH OF TUPIA. [177a quantity of the sheathing was torn ofF, and several plunks were damaged. Two of them were so worn that they were not above an inch thick, and here the worms had made their way quite into the timbers; yet in this condition she Imd sailed many hundred leagues where navigation is dangerous. It seemed, however, that we had been preserved only to perish hero. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were so bad that the physician declared they had no chance for recovery but by removing into the country. A house was therefoi'e hired for them, at the distance of about two miles from the town. While their pre[)arations were making, they re- ceived account of the death of Tupia, who sank at once after the loss of the boy, whom he loved with the tenderness of a parent. By the 14th, the bottom of the ship was thoroughly repaired, and very much to my satisfaction. It would, indeed, be injustice to the officers and workmen of this yard not to declare that, in my opinion, there is not a marine yard in the world where a ship can be laid down with more convenience, safety, and dispatch, or repaired with more diligence and skill. At this place they heave down by two masts, a method which we do not now practise ; it is, however, unquestionably more safe and expeditious to heave down with two masts than one, and he must have a good share of bigotry to old customs, and an equal want of common sense, who will not allow this, after seeing with what facility the Dutch heave down their largest ships at this place. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander recovered slowly at their country house, which was not only open to the sea breeze, but situated upon a running stream, which greatly contributed to the circulation of the air. But I was now taken ill myself ; Mr. Sporing, and a seaman who had attended Mr. Banks, were also seized with inter- raittents ; and indeed there was not more than ten of the whole ship's company that were able to do duty. We proceeded, however, in rigging the ship, and getting water and stores aboard. The water we were obliged to procure from Batavia, at the rate of six shillings and eightpence a leager, or one hundred and fifty gallons. The wet season now set in, though we had some in- tervals of fair weather. The frogs in the ditches, which croak ten times louder than any frogs in Europe, gave notice of Dea 1770.] A SICK LIST. ^«5 rain by an incessant noise that was almost intolerable, and tho gnats and mosquitoes were now become innumerable. On tho 8th of December, the ship being perfectly refitted, and having taken in most of her water and stores, and received her sick on board, wo ran up to Batavia Road and anchored. In tho afternoon of Christmas eve, tho 24th, I took leave of the governor, and several of the principal gentlemen of the place with whom I had formed connections, and from whom I received every possible civility and assistance. In tho evening I went on board, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the rest of the gentlemen who had constantly resided on shore, and who, though better, were not yet perfectly recovered. At six in the morning of the 26th we weighed and set sail, with a light breeze at SW. The Elgin Indiaman saluted us with three cheers and thirteen guns, and tho garrison with fourteen, both which, with the help of our swivels, we returned ; and soon after the sea breeze set in at N. by W., which obliged us to anchor just without the ships in the road. At this time the number of sick on board amounted to forty, and the rest of the ship's company were in a very feeble condition. Every individual had been sick except tho sailmaker, an old man between seventy and eighty years of age, and it is very remarkable that this old man, during our stay at this place, was constantly drunk every day. We had buried seven — the surgeon, three sea- men, Mr. Green's servant, Tu[)ia, and Tayeto his boy. All but Tupia fell a sacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, putrid air of the country, and he who from his birth had been used to subsist chiefly upon vegetable food, particularly ripe fruit, soon contracted all the disorders that are incident to a sea life, and would probably have sunk under them before we could have completed our voyage, if we had not been obliged to go to Batavia to retit. CHAPTER XVI. BOMK ACCOUNT OK DATAVIA— PA8SAIJK FROM BATAVIA TO THE CAPE OK COOP HOl'K— PUINCK's ISLANU— cape Ol' UOOU HOPE ANU ST. HELENA— ItETLRN OF THE HHIP TO ENULANU. 1770. "T) ATAVIA is a place that hath been so often visited Dec. J_) ]jy Europeans, and so many accounts of it are extant, that any description I could give would seem unnecessary ; besides, I have neitlu r abilities nor materials sulHcient for such an undertaking, for whoever gives a faithful account of this place .::t in many things contradict all the authors I have had an oppoix^ ity to consult. But this task I shall leave to some abler hand, and only take notice of such things that seem to mo neces- sary for seamen to know. The city of Batavia is situated on a low flat near the sea, in ti'O bottom of u large bay of the same name, which lies on the 110X1 h side of Java, about eight leagues from the Straits of Sunda, Most of the streets in the city have canals of water running i/hrough them, which unite into one stream about half a nu'e before they discharge themselves into the sea; this is about 100 feet broad, and is built far enough out into the sea to have at its entrance a sufficient depth of water to admit small craft, luggage boats, etc. The communication between the sea and the city is by this canal alone, and this only in the day ; for it is shut up every night by a boom, through which no boats ..'an pass from about six o'clock in the e\'ening to between five and six the next morning. Here stands the custom-house, where all goods, either imported or exported, pay the customary duty ; at I'^ast, an account is here taken of them, and nothing can pass without a permit, whether it pays duty or not. All kinds of refreshments, naval stores, and sea pro- visions are to be had here ; but there are few articles which do not 1771.] LEA VI AG BATAVIA. 187 bear a very high price, e.si)ecially if you take tliein of ilie Coinj)aiiy, which you are obliged to do if you want any (juuiitity ; tliat is, of Buch articles as they nionoj)olize to tiieuisolves, which aro all manner of naval stores and salted provisions. Fresh water and wood for fuel must bo purchased hero. Batavia is certainly a place that Europeans ne(;d not covet to go to ; but if necessity obliges tlu!ni, they will do well to uiako their stay as short as possible, otherwise they will soon feel the eilects of the unwhole- some air, which, I firmly believe, is the death of more Europeans than any other place upon the globe of the samo extent. "Wo came in here with as healthy a ship's conjininy as need go to sea, and after a stay of not quite three months left it in the condition of an hospital ship, besides the loss of seven men. On Thursday, the 27th of December, at six o'clock in the morning, wo weighed again and stood out to sea. On the 31st we stood over to the Sumatra shore, and on the morning of Now Year's Day, 1771, we stood over for the Java shore. We continued our course as the wind permitted us 1771. till three o'clock in the afternoon of the 5th, when we Jaii- anchored under the south-east side of Priaice's Island in eighteen fathoms, in order to recruit our wood and water, and procure refreshments for the sick, many of whom were now become much worse than they were when we left IJatavia. After coming to an anchor I went on shore to look at the watering place and to speak with the natives, some of whom were upcn the beach. I found the watering place convenient, and the water to all appearance good, provided proper care is taken in the filling of it. The natives seemed inclined to supply us with turtle, fowls, etc., articles <^hat I intended laying in aa great a stock of as possible for the benefit of the sick, and to suffer every one to purchase what they ple<'.sed for themselves, as I found these people as easy to traffic with as Europeans, lii the morning sent the gunner ashore with some hands to fill water, while others were employed putting the whole to rights, sending on shore empty casks» • tc. Served turtle to the ship's company. Yesterday was the only salt-meat day i\wy have had since our arrival at Java, which is now near four months. From the 7th till Monday 14th we were employed wooding and watering, being frequently interrupted by heavy rains. Hav- 1 88 DEATH OF THE ASTRONOMER. [1771. ing now completed both, we hoisted in the longboat, and made ready to put to sea, having on board a pretty good stock of refreshments, which we purchased of the natives, such as turtle, fowls, fish, two species of deer, one about as big as a small sheep, the other no bigger than a rabbit ; both sorts ate very well, but are only for present use, as they seldom lived above twenty-four hours in our possession. We likewise got fruit of several sorts, such as cocoa-nuts, plantains, limes, etc. The trade on our part was carried on chielly with money (Spanish dollars) ; the natives set but little value upon anything else. Such of our people as had not this article traded with old sliirts, etc., at a great disadvan- tage. On the 15th we had variable light airs of wind, with which we could not get under sail until the morning, when we weighed witli a light breeze at NE., which was soon succeeded by a calm. In the night died Mr. Charles Green, who was sent out by the Royal Society to observe the transit of Venus. lie had long been in a had state of health, which he took no cave to repair, but, on the contrary, lived in such a manner as greatly promoted the dis- orders he had had long upon him ; this brought on the flux, which put a period to his life. We now made the best of our way for the Cape of Gooil Hope, but the seeds of disease which we had received at Batavia began to appear with the most threatening symptoms in dysenteries and slow fevers. Lest the water which we had taken in at Prince's Island should have had any share in our sickness, we purified it with lime, and we washed all parts of the ship between decks with vinegar as a remedy against infection. ]\rr. Banks was among the sick, and for some time there was no hope of his life. We were very soon in a most deplorable situation ; the ■ I'"- was nothing better than an hospital, in which those that were cv^ne to go about were too few to attend the sick, who were confined to their ham- mocks, and we had almost every night a dead body to comiiiit to the sea. In tlie course of about si.K weeks we buried Mr. Sjwring, a gentleman who was in Mr. Banks's retinue, Mr. Parkinson, his natural liistory painter, Mr. Green the astronomer, the boatswain, the carpenter and his mate, Mr. Monkhouse the jnidshiprnan, uho had fothered the ship after she had been stranded on the coust of 1771.] THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 189 New Holland, our old jolly sailmaker and his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a midshipman, and nine seamen ; in all three-and-twenty persons, besides the seven that we buried at Batavia. On Friday, the 16th of March, about ten o'clock in March, the morning, we anchored off the Cape of Good Hope in seven fathoms with an oozy bottom. The west point of the bay, called the Lion's Tail, bore WNW. and the castle SW., distant about a mile and a half. I immediately waited upon the governor, who told me that I should have everything the country afforded. My first care was to provide a proper place ashore for the sick, v/hich were not a few ; and a house Avas soon found where it was agreed they should be lodged and boarded at the rate of two shillings a head per day. Our run from Java Head to this place afforded very few sub- jects of remark that can be of use to future navigators ; such as occurred, however, I shall set down. "We had left Java Head eleven days before we got the general south-east trade-wind, during which time we did not advance above 5" to the southward, and 3° to the west, having variable light airs, interrupted by calms, with sultry weather and an unwholesome air, occasioned probably by the load of vapours which the eastern trade-wind and westerly monsoons bring into these latitudes, both which blow in these seas at the time of year when we happened to be there. The easterly wind prevails as far as 10° or 12° S., and the westerly as far as 6° or 8° ; in the intermediate space the winds are variable and the air, I believe, always unwholesome. It certainly aggravated the diseases which we brought with us from Batavia, and particularly the flux, which was not in the least degree checked by any medicine, so that whoever was seized with it considered himself as a dead man ; but we had no sooner got into the trade-wind than we began to feel its salutary effects, though we lost several men after, but they were such as were brought so low and weak that there was hardly a possibility of their recovery, and yet some of them ling- ered out in a state of suspense a month after, who in all proba- bility would not have lived twenty-four Iiours before this change happened. Those that were not so far gone remained in the same state for some time, and at last began to recover ; some few, how- 190 PREVENTION OF SCURVY. [1771. ever, were seized with the disorder after we got into the trade- wind, but they had it but slightly, and soon got over it. It is wortli remarking that of all those who had it in its last stage only one man lived, who is now in a fair way of recovering ; and I think INIr. Banks was the only one that was cured at the first attack that had it to a great degree, or indeed at all, before we got into the SE. trade, for it was before tliat time that his cure was happily efiected. It is to be wished, for the gc a of all seamen and mankind in general, that some preventive was found out against this disease and put in practice in climates where it is common, for it is im- possible to victual and water a ship in those climates but that some one article or another, according to different poojile's opinions, must have been the means of bringing on the flux. Wo were inclin(!d to lay it to the water we took in at Prince's Island and the turtle we got there on which we lived for several days. But there seems to be no reason for this when wo consider all the ships from Batavia this year sufTered from the same disorder as much as we had done, and many of them arrived at this place in a far worse state, and yet not one of the s!::ps took any water in at Prince's Island. The same may be said of the llar- coiiH Indiaman, Captain Paul, which sailed from Batavia, soon after our arrival, directly for the coast of Sumatra. We afterwards heard that she in a very short time lost by sickness above twenty men ; indeed, this seems to have been a year of general sickness over most parts of India. TIio ships from Bengal and INIadras bring melancholy accounts of the havoc made there by the united foroo of sickness and famine. On Wednesday, tho 20th, the Houghton Indiaman sailed ; sh.o saluted us with eleven guns, which compliment we returned. This ship, during her stay in India, lost by sickness between thirty and forty men, and had at this time a good many down Avith tho scurvy. Other ships sufTered in the same proportion. Thus wo find that ships which liave been little more than twelve months from En;,dand ha\o suffered as much or more by sickness than we have done, who have been out near thr(»e times as long. Yet their sufFerings will hardly, if at all, bo mentioned or known in England ; when, on the other hand, those of the Endeavour, 177L] PAST ST. HELENA. 191 Apra because tlie voyage is uncommon, will very probably be men- tioned in every newspaper, and, what is not unlikely, with many additional hardships we never experienced. For such are the dis- positions of men in general in these voyages that they are seldom content with the hardships and dangers which will naturally occur, but they must add others which hardly ever had existence but in their imaginations, by magnifying the most trifling accidents and circumstances to the greatest hardships and insurmountable dangers without the immediate interposition of Providence, as if the whole merit of the voyage consisted in the dangers and hard- ships they underwent, or that real ones did not happen often enough to give the mind sufficient anxiety. Thus posterity is taught to look upon these voyages as hazardous to the highest degree. Having lain here to recover the sick, procure stores, and perform several necessary operations upon the ship and rigging, till the 13th of April, I then got all the sick on board, sevei'al of whom were still in a dangerous state, and having taken leave of the governor, I unmoored the next morning and got ready to sail. On the morning of the 14th we weighed and stood out of the bay, and at five in the evening anchored under Penguin, or llobben Island. We lay here all night, and as I could not sail in the morning for want of wind, I sent a boat to the island for a few trifling articles which we had forgot to take in at the Cape. But as soon as the boat came near the shore, the Dutch hailed her, and warned the people not to land at their peril, bringing down at the same time six men armed with muskets, who paraded upon the beach. The officer who commanded the boat, not thinking it worth while to risk the lives of the people on board for the sake of a few cabbages, which was all we wanted, returned to the ship. On the 2^-^\\, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed, with a light breeze at SE., and put to sea. About an hour after- wards we lost our master, Mr. Kobert ]\rolineux, a young man of good parts, but unhappily given up to intemperance, which brought on disorders that put an end to his life. At G a.m. on the 1st we saw the island of St. Helena bearing W., distant eight or nine leagues. At noon we May. 192 HOME AGAIN. [1771. ;i :'* anchored in the road, before James's Fort, in twenty-four fathoms water. I found riding here His Majesty's ship Portland and Swallow sloop and twelve sail of Indiamen. At our first seeing the fleet in this road we took it for granted that it was a war, but in this we were soon agreeably deceived. St. Helena is situated, as it were, in the middle of the vast Atlantic Ocean, being 400 leagues distant from the coast of Africa, and 600 from that of America. It is the summit of . immense mountain rising out of the sea, which, at a little distance all round it, is of an unfathomable depth, and it is no more than twelve leagues long and six broad. At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th of May we weighed and stood out of the road, in company with the Portland man-of- war and twelve sail of Indiamen. We continued to sail in company with the fleet till the 10th in the morning, when, jierceiving that we sailed much heavier than any other ship, and thinking it for that reason probable that the Portland would get home before us, I made the signal to speak with her, upon which Captain Elliot himself came on board, and I delivered to him a letter for the Admiralty, with a box containing the common log-books of the ship and the journals of some of the officers. AVe continued in company, however, till the 23rd in the morning, and then there was not one of the ships in sight. About one o'clock in the afternoon died our first lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, and in the evening we committed his body to the sea with the usual ceremonies. The disease of which he died was a consump- tion, and as he was not free from it when we sailed from England, it may truly be said that he was dying during the whole voyage, though his decline was very gradual till we came to Batavia. Our rigging and sails were now become so bad that something was giving M'ay every day. We continued our course, however, in safety till the 10th of June, when land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the same boy that first saw New Zealand. On the 11th we ran up the Channel ; at six in the morning of the 12th we passed Beachy Head, at noon we were abreast of Dover, and about three came to an anchor in the Downs, and went ashore at Deal, and soon after I lauded in order to repair to London. June. j^ccon& 'Wo^^Qe. CHAPTER XVII. PASSAGK FROM nEPTFORD TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, WITH AN ACCOUNT .^V SEVERAL I.NCinKNTS THAT HAPPENED BY THE WAY AND TRANSACTIONS THERE- May. J'-'ly. I SAILED from Deptford, April 9, 1772, but got no 1772. farther than Woolwich, where I was detained by ^ easterly winds till the 22nd, when the ship fell down to the Long Reach, and the next day was joined by the Adventure. Here both ships received on board their powder, guns, gunners' stores, and marines. On the 10th of JNIay we left Long Reach with orders to touch at Plymouth ; but in plying down the river the Resolution was found to be very crank, which made it necessary to put into Sheerness, in order to remove this evil, by making some alterations in her upper works. On the 22nd of June the ship was again completed for sea, when 1 sailed from Sheerness ; and on the 3rd of July joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. The evening before, we met, off the Sound, Lord Sandwich in the Augusta yacht (who was on his return from visiting the several dock- yards), with the Glory frigate and the Hazard sloop. We saluted his lordship with seventeen guns ; and soon after he and Sir Hugh Palliser gave us the last mark of the very great attention they had paid to this equipment, by coming on board, to satisfy themselves that everything was done to my wish, and that the ship was found to answer to my satisfaction. At Plymouth I received my instructions, dated the 25th of June, directing me to take under my command the Adventwe ; to (661) 1 3 194 INSTRUCTIONS. [1772. 11 make the best of my way to the island of Madeira, thoro to take in a supply of wine, and then proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, where I was to refresh the ships' companies, and to take on hoard such provisions and necessaries as 1 might stand in need of. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, I was to proceod to the southward, and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcision, which was said by Monsieur Bouvet to lie in hit. 54° S., and in about 11° 20' E. long, from Greenwich. If I discovered this cape, I was to satisfy myself whether it was n, part of the continent which had so much engaged the attention of geographers and former navigators, or a part of an island. If it proved to be the former, I was to employ my.self diligently in exploring as great an extent of it as I could, and to make such notations thereon and observat'f^ns of every kind as might be useful either to navigation or commerce, or tend to the promotion of natural knowledge. I was also directed to observe the genius, temper, disposi- tion, and number of the inhabitants, if there were any, and en- deavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendship and alliance with them ; making them presents of such things as they might value, inviting them to tralfic, and showing them every kind of civility and regard. I was to continue to employ myself on this service, and making discoveries either to the eastward or westward, as my .situation might render mcst eligible ; keeping in as high a lati- tude as I could, and prosecuting my discoveries as near to the South Polo as possible, so long as the condition of the ships, tho health of their crews, and the state of their provisions would admit of ; taking care to reserve as much of the latter as would enable me to reach some known port, where I was to i)rocure a sufficiency to bring me home to England. But if Cape Circumcision should prove to be part of an island only, or if I should not be able to find the said cape, I was in tho lirst case to make the necessary survey of the island, and then to stand on to the southward, so long as I judged there was a likeli- hood of falling in with the continent, which I was also to do in the latter case ; and then to proceed to the eastward, in further search of the said continent, as well as to make discoveries of such islands as might be situated in that unexplored part of the 1773.] LEAVING ENGLAND. 195 southern hemisphere, keeping in high latitudes, antl prosecuting my discoveries, as above mentioned, as near the pole as possible, until I had circumnavigated the globe ; after which I was to pro- ceed to the Cape of Good Hope, and from thenco to Spithead. In the prosecution of these discoveries, whenevor the season of the year rendered it unsafe for me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire to some known place to the northward, to refresh my peoi)le and relit the ships, and to return again to tho south- ward as soon as the season of the year would admit of it. In all unforeseen cases, I was authorized to proceed according to my own discretion ; and in case the Resolution should be lost or disabled, I was to prosecute tho voyage on board the Adventure. I gave a copy of these instructions to Captain Furncaux, with an order directing him to carry them into execution ; and, in case he was separated from me, appointed the island of Madeira for the first place of rendezvous, Port Pray a in the island of St. Jago for the second, Cape of Good Hope for the third, and New Zea- land for the fourth. On the 10th of July, according to the custom of the navy, tho companies of both ships were paid two months' wages in advance ; and as a further encouragement for their going this extraordinary voyage, they were also paid the wages due to them to the 28th of the preceding IMay. This enabled them to provide necessaries for the voyagi?. On the 13th, at six o'clock in the morning, I sailed from Plymouth Sound, with the Adventure in company ; and in the evening of the 29th anchored in Funchal Road, in the island of Madeira. The naxt morning I saluted the garrison with eleven guns, which compliment was immediately returned. During our stay at Funchal, which is the capital of the island, the crews of Vjotli ships were supplied with fresh beef and onions. Having 'got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, we left Madeira on the Ist of August. On the 4th we passed Palma, one of the Canary Isles. On finding that our stock of water would not last us to the Cape of Good Hope, I anchored in Port Praya in the island of St. Jago, and dispatched an officer to ask leave to water and purchase refreshments, wliich was granted. We had no sooner August. 196 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE AGAIN. [1771 i I i s 111 i got clear of Port Praya than we got a fresh gale at NNK, which blew in squalls, attended by showers of rain. On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard, and was drowned. He was over the side, sitting in one of the scuttles, from whence, it was supposed, he had fallen, for he was not seen till the very instant he sank under the ship's stern, when our endeavours to save him were too late. This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was a sober man and a good workman. About noon next day the rain poured down upon us, not in drops, but in streams, so that few in the ships escaped a good soaking. We, however, beubtited by it, as it gave us an oppor- tunity of filling all our empty water-casks. On the 27th, spoke with Captain Furneaux, who informed us that one of his petty officers was dead. At this time we had not one sick on board; but I took every necessary precaution by airing and drying the ship with fires made betwixt decks, and by obliging the people to air their bedding, wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was an opportunity. On tlie 8th of September we crossed the line, after which the ceremony of ducking, etc., generally practised on this occasion, was not omitted. At two o'clock in the afternoon of the 29th we made " the land of the Cape of Good Hope. We now crowded all the sail we could, thinking to get into the bay before dark. But when we found this could not be accomplished, we shortened sail and spent the night standing oflP and on. Between eight and nine o'clock the whole sea became at once, as it were, illuminated, or what the seamen call all on fire. The cause of this is not gener- ally known. I therefore had some buckets of water drawn up from alongside the ship, which we found full of an innumerable quantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin's head, and quite transparent. We were now well satisfied with the cause of the sea's illumination. Daylight brought us fair weather; and having stood into Table Bay, with the Adventure in company, we anchored in five fathoms water. My first step after anchoring was to send an officer to wait Sept. 1772.] IIEALTH OF THE CREW. ly? on the governor to acquaint him with our arrival, and the reasons which induced mo to put in there. I then arranged for supplying the ships with provisions and \\\\ other necessaries ; while the seamen were employed in over- hauling the rigging, and the carpenters in caulking the ships' sides and decks. Three or four days after us two Dutch Indiamen arrived here from Holland, after a passage of between four and five months, in which one lost, by the scurvy and other putrid dis- eases, 150 men, and the other 41. By the healthy condition of the crews of both ships at our arrival, I thought to have made my stay at the Cape very short. But as the bread we wanted was unbaked, and the spirits, which I found scarce, to be collected from different parts of the country, it was the 18th of November before we got everything on board, and the 22nd before we could put to sea. CHAPTER XVTTT. DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPK OV GOOD HOPE IN SEARCH OF A HOLTHERN CON- TINENT—SEPARATION OF THE TWO SHIPS— ARRIVAL OF THE " RES0H.TION " IN DUSKY RAY. 1773. Nov. H AVING got clear of tlio land, 1 diroctocl my courao for Cape Circumcis' On tin; noon of tho 24tli we were in the latitude of 35° 2 and longitude 29' \V. of the Cape, and had abundance of aii-..i,iosses about us, several of which were caught with hork and line, and were very well relished by many of the people, notwithstanding they were at this time served with fresh mutton. Judging that we should soon como into cold weather, I ordei'cd slops to bo served to such as were in want, and gave to each man Ihe fearnought jacket and trousers allowed them by the Admiralty. The wind now bhsw a moderate gale, and increased on tho 29th to a storm, which continued, with some few intervals of moderate weather, till the 6th of December. This gale, which was attended with rain and hail, blew at times with such violence that we could carry no sails, by which means we were carried far out of our intended course. But the greatest misfortune that attended us was tho loss of our live-stock, which wo had brought from the Cape, and which consisted of slux'p, hogs, and geese. Indeed, this sudden transition from warm mild weather to (!xtreme cokl and wet made every man in the shi]-) feel its eflfects. For by this time tho mercury in the thermometer liad fallen to 38", whereas at the Cape it was generally at 67° and upwards. I now made some addition to the people's allowance of spirits by giving them a dram whenever T th''iight it necessary. On Thursday, the 10th, we saw an island of ice to the Dec. J • } westward of us. Soon after, the weather becoming hazy, iL 1773.] ICE ISLANDS. 199 I called the Adventure 1>y signal under my stern, which was no sooner done than the liazo increased so much with snow and sleet, that wo did not aeo an island of ico, whi'^h we were steering directly for, till wo were loss than a mile from it. I judged it to ho about fifty foot high and lialf a milo in circuit. It was Hat at top, and its sides rose in a jjcrpondiculnr direction, against which tho sea broke exceedingly high. At noon on the 11th wcs saw some white birds about tho size of pigeons, with blackish bills and feiit. T never saw any such before. I believe them to be of the petrel tribe, and natives of these icy seas. We still 'id thick, hazy weather, with sleet and snow, so that we were obliged to pi'ocoed with great caution on account of the ice islands. Six of them we jiassed in one day. Such was tho force and height of the waves that tho sea broke quite over them. This exhibited a view which for a few moments was pleasing to tho eye ; but when we n^tlected on the danger, the mind was filled with horror. For were a ship to get against the wi-ather side of one of these islands, when the sea runs high, she would bo dashed to pieces in a moment. Upon our getting to the ice islands, the albatrosses left us. On the other hand, penguins began to make their appearance. On the 13th the wind veered to SW., a fresh gale, with sleet and snow, which froze on our sails and rigging as it fell, so that they were all hung with icicles. Between noon and eiglit o'clock in the evenin; , twenty ice islands presented themselves to our view. We had not run long to the southward before wo fell in with the main tli.ld of ice extending from SSW. to E. We steered b(!twixt E. and SSW., hauling into every bay or opening, in hoi)es of finding a passage to the south. But wo found everywhere tho ice was closed. The thermometer was from 30' to 34° ; but tho weather was more sensibly colder than the thermometer seemed to point out, insomuch that the whole crew complained. In order to enable them to support this weather the better, I caused the sleeves of their jackets, which were so short as to expose their arms, to be lengthened with baize, and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, together with canvas, wliich proved of groat service to them. 200 A FIELD OF ICE. [1773. 1773. The weather continued thick and hazy, with sleet and Jan 'arv ^'^'^^^j whicli froze on the rigging and ornamented the whole with icicles. In the afternoon of the 2nd we wei'e favoured with a sight of the moon, whose face we had not seen but once since we left the Cape of Good Hope. We did not fail to seize the opportunity to make several observations of the sun and moon. On the 17th, between eleven and twelve o'clock, we crossed the Antarctic Circle in the longitude of 39° 35' E. The weather was now tolerably clear, so that we could see several leagues round us. About 4 p.m., as we were steering to the south, we observed the whole sea in a manner covered with ice. In this space, thirty-eight ice islands, great and small, were seen, besides loose ice in abundance, so that we were obliged to luff for one piece and bear up for another ; and as we continued to advance to the south, it increased in such a manner that, at tliree-quarters past six o'clock, we could proceed no farther. This immense field was composed of different kinds of ice, such as high hills, loose or broken pieces packed close together, and what, I think, Greenland men called field-ice. Here we saw many whales playing about the ice, and for two days before had seen several flocks of the brown and white pintadoes, which we named antarctic petrels, because they seemed natives of that region. After meeting with this ice I did not think it was at all pru- dent to persevere in getting farther to the south, especially as the summer was already half spent, and it would have taken sonu; time to get round the ice, even supposing it to have been prac- ticable, which, however, is doubtful, I therefore came to a resolu- tion to proceed directly in search of the land lately discovered by the French. As the wind still continued at ESE., I was obliged to return to the north, over some of the sea I had already made myself ac- quainted with, and for that reason wished to have avoided. This course we held till the 1st of February; and being in the meridian of the island of Mauritius, we expected to find the land said to be discovered by the Frencli, but seeing not the least signs, we bore away east. On the 8th of February the hazy weather turned to a thick ■* Vth. 4_. 11773. and the we had •i did IS of 1773.] DISAPPEARANCE OF THE '' ADVENTURE!' 201 fog. I fired a gun every hour till noon, when I made the signal to tack, and tacked accordingly. But as neither this signal nor any of the former was answered by the Adventure, we had but too much reason to think that a separation had taken place, though we were at a loss to tell how it had been effected. I had directed Captain Furneaux, in case he was separated from me, to cruise three days in the place where he last saw me. I therefore continued making short boards and firing half -hour guns till the 9th in the afternoon, when, the weather having cleared up, we could see several leagues round us, and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of our horizon. We were now .standing to the westward with a very strong gale at NNW., accompanied with a great sea from the same direction. On the 10th I gave over looking for her, and steered E., with a very fresh gale at WSW. Between midnight and three o'clock in the morning, lights were seen in the heavens, similar to those in the northern hemisphere known b' the name of Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights; but I never i.i anl of the Aurora Australis being seen before. On the 28th the litinlit of the thcrmouietcr at noon was about 35°, consequently *lie air was something warmer. While the weather was really warm, the gab were not only stronger but more frequent, with almost continual misty, dirty, wet weather. The very animals we had on board felt its effects. A sow having in the morning farrowed nine jiiics, every one of them was killed by the cold before four o'clock in the afternoon, notwithstanding all the care we could take of them. From the same cause, myself as well as several of my people had fin 'ors and toes chilblained. Such is the summer weather wi . ujoyed. We prosecuted our course to the east, inclining to the south, till the 17th of March, wdieu being in the lat. of 50* 7' S., long. 14:6° 53' E., I bore away north-east, and at noon north, having come to a resolution to quit the high southern latitudes and to proceed to New Zealand, to look for the Adventure and to refresh my people. I had also some thoughts, and even a desire, to visit the east coast of Van Diemen's Land, in order to satisfy myself if it joined the coast of New South Wales. On the 19th wo saw a seal, and toward noon some penguins March. 202 NEW ZEALAND AGAIN. [1778. and some rock-weed. In the latitude 54° 4' we also saw a Port Egniont hen. Navigators have generally looked upon all these to be certain signs of the vicinity of land; I cannot, however, support this opinion. At this time we knew of no land, nor is it even probable that there is any, nearer than New Holland or Van Diemen's Land, from which we were distant 260 leagues. We had at this time several porpoises playing about us, into one of which Mr. Cooper struck a harpoon; but as the ship was running seven knots, it broke its hold, after towing it some minutes and before we could deaden the ship's way. As the wind, which continued between the north and west, would not permit me to touch at Van Diemen's Land, I shaped my course to New Zealand. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the land of New Zealand was seen from the mast-head. As I intended to put into Dusky Bay, or any other port I could find on the southern part of Tavai Poenammoo, we steered in for the land, under all the sail wo could carry, having the advantago Ox a fresh gale at west and tolerably clear weather. At noon on the 26th we entered Dusky Bay, and anchored in fifty fathoms of water. This was on Friday at three in the after- noon, after having been one hundred and seventeen days at sea, in which time we had sailed 3,660 leagues without having once sight of land. After such a long continuance at sea, in a high southern lati- tude, it is but reasonable to think that many of my people must be ill of the scurvy. The contrary, however, happened. Men- tion hath already been made of sweet wort being given to such as were scorbutic. Wo did not attribute the general good state of health in the crew wholly to sweet wort, but to the fioqueut airing and sweetening of the sliip by fires, etc. Wo must also allow port- able broth ainl sour krout to have had some share in it This last can never be enough recommended. My first care, after the ship was moored, was to send a boat and pooph; a-fisliing ; in the meantime, some of the genthmien killed a seal (out of many that were upon a rock), which made us a fresh meal. CHAPTER XIX. TRANSACTIONS IN DUSKY BAY. THE fishing-boat was very successful, returning ^vith 1773. fish sufficient for all hands for supper; and in a ^'^ few hours in the morning caught as many as served for dinner. This gave us certain hopes of being plentifully supplied with this article. Nor did the shores and woods appear less destitutf of wild fowl, so that we hoped to enjoy with ease what, in our situa- tion, might be called the luxuries of life. This determined me to stay some time in this bay, in order to examine it thoroughly, as no one )iad ever landed before on any of the southern parts of this country. We soon began to clear places in the woods, in order to set up the astronomer's observatory, the forge to repair our ironwork, tents for the sailinakers ; to land our empty casks, to fill water, and to cut down wood for fuel, all of which were absolutely neces- sary occupations. We also began to brew beer from the branches or leaves of a tree which much resembles the American black spruce, for I judged that it would make a very wholesome beer, and supply the want of vegetables, which this place did not afford ; and the event proved that I was not mistaken. The few sheep and goats wo had left were not likely to fare so well as ourselves, there being no grass liere but what was coarse and harsh. It was, however, not so bad but that we expected they would devour it with great greediness, and were the more surprised to find that they would not taste it ; nor did they seem over fond of the leaves of mr)re tender plants. Upon examination, wo found their teeth loose, and that many of them had every other symptom of an inveterate sea-scurvy. Out of four ewes and two rams which I brought from the Cape, with an 204 APPEARANCE OF NATIVES. [1773. April intent to put ashore in this country, I had only been able to pre- serve one of each ; and even these were in so bad a state that it was doubtful if they could recover, notwithstanding all the care possible that had been taken of them. Some of the officers, on the 28th, went up the bay in a small boat on a shooting party, but discovering inhabitants, they returned to acquaint me therewith^ for hitherto we had not seen the least vestige of any. There were seven or eight people. They looked at us for some time, but all the signs of friendship we could make did not prevail on them to come nearer. As we returned from shooting on the Cth of April, the natives discovered themselves again. We should have passed without seeing them, had not one of the men hallooed to us. He stood with ]iis club in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind him, at the skirts of the wood, stood two women, each of them with a spear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when we approached the rock with our boat. He, however, stood firm, nor did he move to take up some things we threw him ashore. At length I landed, went up and embraced him, and presented him with such articles as I had about me, which at once dissipated his i'^ars. Presently we were joined by two women, and spent half an hour in chit chat, little understood on either side, in which the youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This occasioned one of the seamen to say that women did not want tongue in any part of the world. We presented them with tish and fowl, which we had in our boat, but these they threw into the boat again, giving us to under- stand that such things they wanted not. Next morning I paid the natives a visit, carrying with me various articles, which they received with a great deal of indiffer- ence, except hatchets and spike-nails ; these they most csteeaied. We now saw the whole family. It consisted of the man, liis v,wo wives (as we supposed), the young woman before mentioned, a boy about fourteen years old, and three small children. They conducted us to their habitation, which was but a little way within the skirts of the wood, and consisted of two mean huts made of the bark of trees. Their boat, just large enough to 1773.] COURTEOUS RECEPTION. 205 transport the whole family from place to place, lay in a small creek near the huts. When we took leave, the chief presented me with a piece of cloth or garment of their own manufacturing, and some other trifles. I at first thought it was meant as a return for the presents I had made him ; but he soon undeceived me by expressing a desire for one of our boat-cloaks. I took the hint, and ordered one to be made for him of red baize as soon as I got aboard, where rainy weather detained me the following day. The 9th being fair weather, we paid the natives another visit, and made known our approach by hallooing to them ; but they neither answered us nor met us at the shore as usual. The reason of this we soon saw ; for we found them at their habitations, all dressed and dressing in their very best, with their hair combed and oiled, tied up upon the crowns of their head, and stuck with white feathers. Some wore a fillet of feathers round their heads, and all of them had bunches of white feathers stuck in their ears ; thus dressed, and all standing, they - jceived us with great courtesy. I presented the chief with the cioak I had got made for him, with which he seemed so well pleased that he took his patapatoo from his girdle and gave it me. On the 13th, accompanied by Mr. Forster, I went in the pin- nace to survey the isles and rocks whicii lie in the mouth of the bay. I found a very snug cove sheltered from all winds, whicli we called Luncheon Cove, because hero we dined on crayfish, on the side of a pleasant brook, shaded by tho trees from both wind and sun. After dinner we proceeded, by rowing, out to the utter- most isles, where we saw many seals, fourteen of which we killed and brought away with us. The next morning I went out again to cor ',inue the survey. I int*" iided to have landed again on the Seal Isles, but there ran such a agh sea that I could not come near them. With some difficulty we rowed out to sea and round the SW. point of Anchor Isle. It happened very fortunately that chance directed mo to take thia course, in which we fouuu the sportsmen's boat adrift, and laid hold of her the very moment she would have been dashed against the rocks. I was not long at a loss to guess how she came there, nor was I under any apprehensions for the gentlemen that had been in her ; ar after refreshing ourselves with such as we ao6 REFRESHING 2 HE CREW. [1778. had to eat and drink, and securing the boat in a small creek, we proceeded to the place where we supposed them to be. We found them upon a small isle in Goose Cove, where, as it was low water, we could not come with our boat until the return of the tide. As this did not happen till three o'clock in the morning, we landed on a naked beach, not knowing where to find a better place, and after some time, having got a fire and broiled some fish, wo made a hearty supper, having for sauce a good appetite. This done, we lay down to sleep, having a stony beach for a bed and the canopy of heaven for a covering. When we at last arrived at the creek, we found there an immense number of blue petrels, some on the wing, others in the woods, in holes in the ground, under the roots of trees, and in the crevices of rocks, where there was no getting them, and where we supposed their young were deposited. The noise they made was like the croaking of many frogs. After restoring their boat to the sportsmen, wo all proceeded for the ship, which we reached by seven o'clock in the morning, not a little fatigued with our expedition. On the morning of the 15th I continued my survey of the north-west side of the bay. In the doing of this I picked up about a score of wild fowl, and caught fish sufficient to serve the whole party. Reaching the place where we intended to lodge for the night, a little before dark, I found the other j^entlemen out duck- shooting. They, however, soon returned, nc overloaded with game. l>y this time the cooks had done their parts, in which little art was required ; and after a hearty repast on what the day had produced, we lay down to rest, but took care to rise early the next morning, in order to have the other bout among the ducks before we left the cove. Accordingly, at daylight, we prepared for the attack. Those who had reconnoitred the place before chose their stations accordingly, whilst myself and another remained in the boat and rowed to the head of the cove to start the game, which we did so effectually that, out of some scores of ducks, we only detained one to ourselves, sending all the rest down to those stationed below. About nine o'clock we all collected together, when the success of every one was known, which was by no means answerable to our expectations. The morning, indeed, was very [1778. 1773.] CURIOSITY OF THE NATIVES. ao7 wo bund ater, tide. , we )etter fish, unfavourable for sliooting, boing rainy the most of the time we were out. After breakfast wo set out on our return to the ship, whicli we reached by seven o'clock in the evening, with about seven dozen of wild fowl and two seals. On the 18th, our friends the natives paid us another visit ; and the next morning the chief and his daughter were induced to come on board. Before they catne on board I showed them our goats and sheep that were on shore, which they viewed for a moment with a kind of stupid insensibility. After this I conducted them to the bow ; but before the chief set his foot upon it to come into the .ship, he took a small grcon branch in his hand, with which he .struck the ship's side several times, repeating a speech or prayer. When this was over, he threw the branch into the main chains and came on board. This custom and manner of making peace, as it were, is prac- tised by all the nations in the South Seas that I have seen. I took them both down into the cabin, where we were to breakfast. They sat at table with us, but would not taste any of our victuals. The chief wanted \-?> know where we slept, and indeed to pry into every corner of tin; cabin, every part of which he viewed with some surprise. But it wac not po.ssible to fix his attention to any one thing a .single moment. The works of art appeared to him in the same light as those of nature, and were as far removed beyond liis comprehension. What seemed to strike them most was the number and strength of lur decks and other parts of the ship. The chief, before he came aboard, presented me with a piece of cloth and a green talc hatchet. This custom of making presents before they receive any is common with the native."- ot the South Sea Isles; but I never saw it practised in New Zealainl before. Of all the various articles I gave my guest, hatchets and spike-nails were the most valuable in his eyes. These he would never suffer to go out of his hands after he had once laid hold of them ; whereas many other articles he would carelessly lay down anywhere, and at last leave them behind him. At daylight on Tuesday, the 20th, I took two men ui the small boat, and, with Mr. Forster, went to take a view of the flat land ao8 ALARM OF THE NATIVES, [1778. at the head of the bay. We landed on one side, and ordered the boat to moeu us on the other side ; but Imd not been long on the shore before we saw some ducks, which, by their creeping through tlie bushes, we got a shot at and killed one. The moment we had fired, the natives, whom we had not dis- covered before, set up a most hideous noise in two or three places close by us. Wo liallooed in our turn, and at ti>e same time returned to our boat, which was full half a mile off. The natives kept up their clamouring noise, but did not follow us. Indeed we found afterwards that they could not, because of a branch of tl '^ river between us and them. At length two natives appeared on the banks of the river, a man and a woman, and the latter kept waving something white in her hand, as a sign of friendship. I landed with two others unarmed, the natives standing about one hundred yards from the water side, with each a spear in his hand. When we advanced they retired. It was some time before I could prevail on them to lay down their spears. This at last one of them did, and met me with a grass plant in his hand, one end of which he gave me to hold, while he held the other. Standing in this manner, he began a speech, not one word of which I understood, and made some long pauses, waiting, as I thought, for me to answer, for when I 8i)oke he proceeded. As soon as this ceremony was over, which was not long, we saluted each other. He then took his hahou or coat from otF his own back and put it upon mine, after which peace seemed firmly established. More people joining us did not in the least alarm them. On the contrary, they salutetl every one as he rame up. I gave to each a hatchet and a knife, having nothing else with me. Perhaps these were the most valuable things I could give them — at least they were the most useful. They wanted us to go to their habitation, telling us they would give us something to eat, and I was not sorry the tide and other circumstances would not permit me to accept of their invitation. When we took leave they followed us to our boat, and seeing the muskets lying across the stern, they made signs for them to be taken away, which bein«» done, they came alongside and assisted us to launch her. At this i lu 1773.] SEAL HUNTING. 209 we go time it was necessary for us to look well after them, for they wanted to take away everything they could lay their hands on, except th.o muskett'. These they took care not to touch, being taught hy the slaughter they had seen us make among the wild fowl to look upon them as instruments of deatli. We saw no canoes or other boats with them ; two or three logs of wood tied together served the same purpose, and were indeed sufficient for the navigation of the river, on the banks of which they lived. In th(! afternoon of the 21st, I went with a party out to the isles on seal-hunting. The surf ran so high that we could only land in one place, where we killed ten. These animals served us for three purposes : the skins we made use of for our rigging ; the fat gave oil for our lamps ; and the flesh we ate, whioh latter is little inferior to beefsteaks. In the morning of the 23rd, Mr. Pickersgill, Mr. Gilbert, and two others, went to Cascade Cove, in order to ascend one of the mountains, the summit of which they reached by two o'clock in the afternoon, as we could see by the fire they made. In the evening they returned on board and reported that Inland nothing was to be seen but barren mountains with huge craggy precipices, disjoined by valleys, or rather chasms, frightful to behold. Having five geese left out of those we brought from the Cape of Good Hope, I went with them next moining to Goose Cove (named so on this account), where I left them. I chose this place for two reasons — first, here are no inhabitan'^s to disturb them, and secondly, here being the most food. I make no doubt that they will breed, and may in time spread over the whole country, and fully answer my intention in leaving them. We spent the day shooting in and about i.he cove. One of the party shot a white heron, which agreed exactly with the descrip- tion of the white herons that either now are or were formerly in England. The 25th was the eighth fair day we had had successively, a circumstance, I believe, very uncommon in this place, especially at this season of the year. This fair weather gave us an oppor- tunity to complete our wood and water, to overhaul the rigging, calk the ship, and put her in a condition for sea. (561) I'l txo DEPARTURE FROM DUSKY BA Y. [1778. 11^ Hay. ITaving ^oi tlio tontn aiul «very otlior article on l)oariay by this entrance is by no means difficult, as I know of no da'ger k 1778.] SOAfE ACCOUNT OF DUSKY BAY. 211 tho liar- soa. top- lied, s of tlie light and but what shows itsflf. It must bo needless to enuinerate nil tho anchoring [)lac('S in this cnpacious bay. Tho north entrance lies in tho Int. of 45° 38' 8,, and flvo leagues to tho nortli of Five Fingers Point. Tho country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, but through all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poenaininoo. A prospect more rudo and craggy is rarely to bo met with, for inland appears nothing but tho summits of mountains of a stupendous height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow. But tho land bordering on tho sea-coast, and all the islands, are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to tho water's edge. The trees are of various kinds, such as are common to other ])arts of this country, and are fit for the shipwriglit, honse- carpenter, cabinetmaker, and many other u.ses. Except in the river Thames, I have not seen finer timber in all New Zealand. Both liere and in that river tho most considerable for size is tho spruce tree. Many of these trees are from six to eight and ten feet in girth, and from sixty to eighty or one hundred feet in length, large enough to make a mainmast for a fifty-gun ship. Here are, as wciU as in all other parts of New Zealand, a great number of aromatic trees and shrubs, most of the myrtle kind ; but amidst all this var'oty wo met with none which bore fruit fit to eat. The soil is a deep black mould, evidently composed of decayed vegetables, and .so loose that it sinks under you at every step, and this may lio the reason why wo meet with so many largo trees blown down by the wind, even in the thickest part of the woods. All the ground atnongst the trees is covered with moss and fern, of l>oth which there is a great variety ; but except tho flax or hemp plant and a fe\v other plants, there is very little herbage of any sort, and none that was eatable, that we found, except about a handful of water-cresses and about the same quantity of celery. What Dusky Bay most abounds with is fish. A boat with six or eight men with hooks and lines caught daily sufficient to serve tho whole ship's company. Of this article the variety is almost equal to tho plenty, and of such kinds as are common to i''A 3ia ANIMALS OF DUSKY BA Y. 177*. the more northern coast ; l)ut some are superior, and in particular the cole fish, as we called it, which is botii larger and finer flavoured than any I had seen before, and was, in the opinion of most on board, the highest luxury the sea afforded us. The shellfish are mussels, cockles, scallops, crayfish, and many other sorts. The only amphibious animals are seals. These are to be found in great numbers about this bay, on the small rocks and isles near the sea coast. We found here five different kinds of ducks, some of which I do not recollect to have anywhere seen before. The largest are as big as a INIuscovy duck, with a very beautiful variegated plumage, on which account we called it the painted duck ; both male and female have a large white spot on each wing, but all the other feathers are of a dark variegated colour. The second sort have a brown plumage, with bright green feathers in their wings, and are about the size of an English tame duck. The third sort is the blue-grey duck before mentioned, or the whistling duck, as some called them from the whistling noise they made, The fourth sort is something bigger than teal, and all black, except the drake, which has some white feathers in his wing. There are but few of this sort, and we saw them nowhere but in the river at the head of the bay. The last sort is a good deal like a teal, and very common, I am told, in England. The other fowls, whether b(!long- ing to the sea or land, are the same that are to be found in common in other parts of this country, except the blue petrel before mentioned and the water or wood hens. These last, although they are numerous enough here, are so scarce in other parts that I saw but one. I'lie reason may be that, as they cannot fly, they inhabit the skirts of the woods and feed on the sea beach, and are so very tame or foolish as to stand and stare at us till wo knocked them down with a stick. Amongst the small birds 1 must not omit to particularize the wattle-bird, poy-bird, aiid fantail, on account of their singularity, e.specially as I find they are not mentioned in the narrative of my former voyage. The wattle-bird, so called because it has two wattles under its beak, is larger, particularly in length, than an English blackbird. Its bill is short and thick, and its feathers of a dark lead colour ; .778. 1773.] PICKERSGILL HA RBO UR. 213 ular iner n of the colour of its wattles is a dull yellow, ahuost au orango colour. Tho poy-bird is less than the wattle-bird ; the feathers of a fine mazarine blue, except those of its neck, which are of a most beautiful silver-grey, and two or three short white ones, which are on the pinion joint of the wing. Under its throat hang two little tufts of curled, snow-white feathers, called its poies, which being the Otaheitean word for earrings, occasioned our giving that name to the bird, which is not more remarkable for the beauty of its plumage than for the sweetness of its note. The flesh is also most delicious, and was the greatest luxury the woods aftbrded us. For three or four days after we arrived in Pickersgill Harbour, and as we were clearing the woods to set up our tents, etc., a four- footed animal was seen by three or four of our people ; but as no two gave the same description of it, I cannot say of what kind it is. All, however, agreed that it was about the size of a cat, with short legs and of a mouse colour. One of the seamen, and he who had the best view of it, said it had a bushy tail and was the most like a Jackal of any animal he knew. The most probable con- jecture is that it is of a new species. Be this as it may, we are now certain that this country is not so destitute of quadrupeds as was once thought. The most mischievous animals here are the small black sand - flies, which are very numerous, and so troublesome that they exceed everything of the kind I ever met with. Wherever they bite tlicy cause a sw Hing and such an intolerable itching that it is not possible to refrain from scratching. The almost continual rains may be reckoned another evil attending this bay; though porluifjs they may only happen at this season of tho year. Our people, who were daily exposed to the rain, f«'lt no ill ettects from it ; on the contrary, such as were sick and ailing when we came in, recovered daily, and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous, which can only be attributed to tho healthiness of the place and tie fresh provision.n it afforded. The beei- certainly contributed not a little. We at first made it of a decoction of tho spruce leaves ; but finding that this alone made tho beer too astringent, we afterwards mixed with it an equal (juantity of tho tea-plant (a name it obtained in my former voyage from our using it as tea then, as we also did now), which partly «i 314 BREWING SPRUCE BEER. [1773. destroyed the astringcucy of the other, and made the beer exceed- ingly palatable and esteemed by every one on bop^-'V We brewed it in the same manner as spruce beer, and the pro- cess is as follows : first, make a strong decoction of the small branches of the spruce and tea plants by boiling them three or four hours, or until the bark will strip with ease from oil" the branches ; then take them out of the copper and put in the proper quantity of molasses, ten gallons of which ai-e sulRcient to make a tun of 240 gallons of beer. Let this mixture just boil ; then put it into casks, and to it add an equal quantity of cold water ; when the whole is milk-warm put in a little grounds of beer or yeast if you have it, or anything else that will cause fermentation, and in a few days the beer will be fit to drink. Any one who ia in the least acquainted with spruce pines will find the tree which I have distinguished by that name. There are three sorts of it; that which has the smallest leaves and deepest colour is the sort we brewed with, but doubtless all three might safely serve that purpose. The tea-plant is a small tree or shrub, with five white petals or llower-leaves, shaped like those of a rose. The tree sometimes grows to a moderate lieight, and is generally bare on the lower part, with a number of small branches growing close together towards the top. The leaves are small and pointed, like those of the myrtle ; it bears a dry roundish seed-case, and grows com- monly in dry places near the shores. The inhabitants of this bay are of the same race of people with those in other parts of this country, speak the same language, and observe nearly the same customs. These indeed seem to have a cus- tom of making presents before tluty receive any, in which they come nearer to the Otaheiteans than the rest of their countrymen. What could induce three or four families to separate themselves so far from the society of the rest of their fellow-creatures is not easy to gues.s. By our meeting with inhabiUints in this place, it seems probable that there are people scattered over all this south- ern island. JUit the many vestiges of them in diiVerent parts of this bay, compared with the number that we actually saw, indicates that they live a wandering life ; and, if one may judge from appearances and circumstances, few as they are, they live not in 1773. eed- )ro- limll or the )per lakc then Iter ; jr or ;ioii, 1773.] OBSERVATIONS OF LATITUDE. 215 perfect amity one family with another. For if they did, vliy do they not form themselves into some society ? a thing not only natural to man, but observed even by the brute creation. I shall conclude this account of Dusky Bay with some observa- tions made and communicated to me by Mr. Wales. He found, by a great variety of observations, tliat the latitude of his ob- servatory at Picker.sgill JIarbour was 45' 47' 261" S., and, by the mean of several distances of the moon from the sun, that its longitude was 160' 18' E., which is about half a degree less than it is laid down in my chart constructed in my former voyage. Ho found the variation of the needle or compass to be 13" 49' E., and the dip of the souUi end 70° 5|'. The times of high water on the full and change days he found to be at 10** 67', and the tide to rise and fall, at the former eight feet, at the latter live feet eight inches. CHAPTER XX. PASSAGE FROM DUSKY BAY TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP SOME WATER-SPOUTS, AND OF OUR JOINING THE "ADVENTURE" — CAPTAIN FURNEAUX'S NARRATIVE. 1773. A FTER leaving Dusky Bay, I directed my course May. J-^ along shore for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I expected to find the Adventure. In this passage we met with nothing remarkable till the 17th at four o'clock in the afternoon. Being then about three leagues to the westward of Cape Stephen, liaving a gentle gale at west by south, and clear weather, the wind at once flattened to a calm, the sky became suddenly obscured by dark dense clouds and seemed to forebode much wind. This occi'^ioned us to clew up all our sails, and presently six water-spouts were seen. Four rose and spent themselves between us and the laud, the tifth was without us, the sixth first appeared in the SW. at the distance of two or three miles at least from us. Its progressive motion was to the NE., not in a straight but in a crooked line, and passed within fifty yards of our stern, without our feeling any of its effects. The diameter of the base of this spout I judged to be about fifty or .sixty feet; that is, the sea within this space was much agitated and foamed up to a great height. From this a tube or round body was fonned, by wjiich the water, or air, or both, were carried up to the clouds. Some of our people said they saw a bird in the one near us, which was whirled round like the fly of a jack as it was carried upwards. Some of these spouts appeared at times to be stationary ; and at other times to have a quick but very unequal progressive motion, and always in a crooked line, sonietimos one way and sometimes another, so that once or twice we observed them to cross one another. From the ascending motion of the bird and several other cir- 1773.] THE ''ADVENTURE'' FOUND. 217 cunistauces, it was very plain to us that these spouts were caused by whirlwinds ; and that the water in them was violently hurried upwards, and did not descend from the clouds, as I have heard some assert. The first appearance of them is by the violent agitation and rising up of the water, and presently after you see a round column or tube forming from the clouds above, which apparently descends till it joins tlie agitated water below. I say apparently, because I believe it not to be so in reility, but that the tube is already formed from the agitated water below and ascends, though at first it is either too small or too thin to be seen. When the tube is formed or becomes visible, its apparent diameter increaseth until it is pretty large ; after that, it deci-oaseth, and at last it breaks or becomes invisible towards the lower part. Soon after, the sea below resumes its natural state, and the tube is drawn, by little and little, up to the clouds, where it is dissipatea. I am told that the firing of a gun will dissipate the.se water- spouts, and I am very sorry I did not try the exi)eriment \ but as soon as the danger was pa.st, I thought no more about it, being too attentive in viewing these extraordinary meteors. At the time this happened, the barometer stood at 29, and the thermometer at 56. In coming from Cape Ji'arowell to Cape Stephen, I had a better view of the coast than I had when I passed in my former voyage ; and observed that, about six leagues to the cast of the first- mentioned cape, is a spacious bay, which is covered from the sea by a low point of land. This is, I believe, the same that Cajjtain Tasman anchored in on the 18th of December 1642, and by him called Murderers' Bay, by reason of some of his men being killed by the natives. The wind having returned to tlie west, we resumed our course to tlie east, and at daylight the next njorning we appeared off Queen Charlotte's Sound, where we discovered our consort the Adventure, by the signals she made to us — an event which every one felt with an agreeable satisfaction. With the assistance of a light breeze, our boats, and the tides, we, at six o'clock in the evening, got to an anchor in Ship Covo near the AdveiiUtre ; when Captain Furneaux came on board and gave mo the following account of his proceedings from the time we parted to my arrival here. 2l8 CAPTAIN rURNEAUX'S ACCOUNT. [1773. "On the 7th of February 1773, in the niorninfj:, the Resolution being then about two miles ahead, the wind, shifting then to the westward, brouglit on a very thick fog, so that we lost sight of her. We soon after lieard a gun, the report of which we imagined to be On the larboard beam. We kept firing a four-pounder every lialf-hour, but had no answer, nor further sight of her ; then we kept the course we steered on before the fog came on. " In the evening it began to blow hard, and was at intervals more clear; but could see nothing of her, which gave us much uneasiness. We then tacked and stood to the westward, to cruise in the place where we last saw lier, according to agreement, in case of separation ; but next day came on a very heavy gale of wind and thick weather that obliged us to bring to, and thereby prevented us reaching tlie intended spot. However, the wind coming more moderate and the fog in some measure clearing away, we cruised as near the place as we could get for three days, when, giving over all hopes of joining company again, we bore away for winter quarters, distant 1,400 leagues, tlirough a sea entirely unknown, and reduced the allowance of water to one quart per day. " Wo directed our course toward the land laid down in the charts by the name of Van Diemen's Land, discovered by Tasman in 1642, and laid down in the latitude of 44° S. and longitude 140° E., a.:J supposed to join to New Holland. "On the 9th of Mr.rch wo saw the land, bearing NNE., about eight or nine miles distant. It appeared moderately high and uneven near the sea. A point, much like the Itamhead off Ply- mouth, which I take to be tlie same tliat Tasman calls South Cape, bore north four leagues of ua Tho land from this cape runs directly to tlic eastward. About four leagues along shore are three islands about two miles long. After you pass tliese islands the land lies E. by N. and W. by S. by the compass nearly. Here the country is hilly and full of trees, the shore rocky, and dillicult landing occasioned by the wind blowing here continually from tho westward, which occasioiis such a surf that the sand cannot lie on the shore. We saw no inhabitants Iiere. "Finding no place to anchor in with safety, we made sail for Frederick Henry Bay, and on the lOtli of March we were abreast of [1773. 1773.] ADVENTURE BAY. !I9 [n to lilt of jinecl 5very in we the westernmost point of a very deep bay called by Tosmaii Stormy Bay. While crossing this bay wo had very heavy squalls and thick weather. From hero the land trends away about N. by E. four leagues. At half-past six wo hauled round a higli bluff point, the rocks wliereof were like so many lluted pillars. Being abreast of a fine bay, and having little wind, we anchored, thinking this bay to be that which Tasman called Frederick Henry Bay, but afterwards found it five leagues to the northward of this. " We lay here five days, which time was employed in wooding and watering and overhauling the rigging. We found the country very pleasant, the soil a black, rich, though thin one ; the sides of the hills covered with large trees and very thick, growing to a great height before they branch off. " While we lay here we saw several smokes and large fires about eight or ten miles inshore to the northward, but did not see any of the natives, though tliey frequently came into this bay, as there were several wigwams or huts, where we found some bags and nets made of grass, in which I imagine they carry their provisions and other necessaries. We never found more than three or four huts in a place, capable of containing three or four persons each only ; and what is remarkable, we never saw the least marks either of canoe or boat, and it is generally thought they have none, being altogether, from what we could judge, a very ignorant and wretched set of people, though natives of a country capable of producing every necessary of life, and a climate the finest in the world. " Having completed our wood and water, we sailed from Adven- ture Bay, intending to coast it up along shore till wo should fall in with the land seen by Captain Cook, and discover whether Van Diemen's Land joins with New Holland. " On the 16th we passed Maria's Islands, so named by Tasman ; they appear to be the same as the mainland. On the 17th we hauled in for the mainland. The country here appeal's to bo very thickly inhabited, as there was a continual fire along shore as wo sailed. The land hereabouts is much pleasanter, low and even, but no signs of a harbour or bay where a ship might anchor with sat'ety. On the 19th, observing breakers about lialf a miio 220 AUSTRALIA TO NEW ZEALAND. [1773. within shore of us, we sounded, and finding but eiglit fathoms, immediately hauled otf, then bore away, and kept along shore again. " The coast from Adventure Bay to the place where we stood away for New Zealand is about seventy-five leagues, and it is my opinion that there are no straits between New Holland and Van Dienien's Land, but a very deep bay. I should have stood further to the northward ; but the wind blowing strong at SSE., and look- ing likely to haul round to the eastward, which would have blown right on the land, I therefore thought it more proper to leave the coast and steer for Now Zealand. "After we left Van Diemeu'.s Land wc had very uncertain weather, with rain and heavy gusts of wind. On the 24th we were surprised with a very severe squall, the sea rising equally quick. We shipped many waves, one of whicli stove the large cutter and drove the small one from her lashing into the waist, and with much difficulty we saved hor from being washed over- l)oard. This gale lasted twelve hours, after which we had, upon the whole, good weather ; but as we got near to the land it came on thick and dirty for several days, till we made the coast of New Zealand in 40° 30' S., having made twonty-four degrees of longi- tude from Adventure Bay after a passage of fifteen days. "The land, when we first made it, appeared high, and formed a confused jumble of hills and mountains. "At eiglit o'clock on the 3rd of April we entered the straits, and steered NE. till midnight. Standing to the ea.stward for Charlotte's Sound in tlie morning of the 5th, wo were taken altack with a strong easterly gale, which obliged us to haul our wind to the SE. and work to windward up under Point Jackson. As we stoolo\vn vc tlie Eiulenvonr'a pco|)lo, witli lior name and timo of departure on it Oil the 9th we were visited l»y three canoes with about sixteen of tlie natives ; and to induce them to bring us fish and other pro- visions we gave tliem several things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of our young gentlemen seeing something wrajit up in a better manner than common, had the curiosity to examine what it was, and to his great surprise found it to be the head of a man lately killed. They were very apprehensive of its being forced from them, and jiarticularly the man who seemed most interested in it, whose very flesli crept on his bones for fear of being punished by us, as Ca[)tain Cook had expressed his great abhorrence of this unnatural act. They used every method to con- ceal the head by shifting it from one to another, and by signs endeavouring to convince us that there was no such thing amongst them, though we had seen it but a few minutes before. " They frequently mentioned Tupia, which was the name of the native of George's Island (or Otaheite) brought here by the Endeavour, and who died at Batavia ; and when we told them he was dead, some of tlicm seemed to be very much concerned, and, as well as we could understand them, wanted to know whether we killed him, or if ho died a natural death. By tlie.se questions they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. In the afternoon they returned again with fi.sh and fern roots, which they sold for nails and other trifles. The man and woman who had the head did not come off again. " Next morning they returned again to the number of fifty or sixty, with their chief (as we supposed) at their head in five double canoes. Tht^y gave us their imphunents of war, stone hatchets, and clothes, etc., for nails and old bottles, which they put a great value on. A number of the head-men came on board us, and it >va3 Avith some difliculty we got them out of the ship by fair means ; but on the appearance of a musket with a fixed bayonet they all went into their canoes very quickly. " We struck our tents on the IMotuara, and having removed the ship farther into the cove on the west shore, moored her for the winter. "On the 11th of May we felt two severe shocks of an earthquake, but received no kind of damage. On the 17th we 222 MEETING AGAIN. [ITTa. were surprised, our people firing guns from the Hippa, a smaH island that is joinal to Motuara at low water ; and having sent the boat, as soon as she opened tlie sound, had the pleasure of seeing the Resolution oil' the mouth of it. " We immediately sent out the boats to her assistance to tow her in, it being calm. In the evening she anchored about a mile without us, and next morning weighed and warped within ua " Both ships felt uncommon joy at our meeting aft<'r an absence of fourteen weeks." [17V3. ' small sent iro of |o tow mile IS. bsence Clf AFFER XXI. TRANS.ACTIONS IN QI EKN CHARLOTTE H HOINU, WITH BOME BEMARKS ON THE INHABITANTS— ROUTE KKOM NEW ZEALAND TO OlAHEITE. KNOWING that scurvy-grass, celery, and other voge- 1773. tables were to bo found in this sound, I went May, myself the morning after my arrival, at daybreak, to look for some, and returned "ii board at breakfast with a boat-load. Being now satislied that enough was to be got for the crews of both ships, I gave ordera that they should be boiled with wheat and portable broth every morning for breakfa *, and with peas and broth for dinner, knowing from experience that these vegetables thus dressed are extremely beneficial in removing all manner of scor- butic complaints. I have already mentioned a desire 1 had of visiting Van Diemen's Land in order to inform myself if it made a part of New Holland, and I certainly should have done this had the winds proved favourable. But as Ca]itain Furneaux had now in a great UH'asure cleared up that point, I could have no business there, and therefore came to a resolution to continue our researches to the east between the latitudes of 41" and 46". I ac(iuai]ited Captain Furneaux therewith, and ordered him to get his ship in readiness to put to sea as soon as possible. In the morning of the 20th I sent ashore, to the watering place near the Adventurers tent, the only ewe and ram remaining of those which I brought from tho Capo of Good Hope, with an intent to leave in tho country. Soon after I visited the several gardens Captain Furneaux had caused to be made and planted with various articles, all of which were in a flourishing state, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of groat utility to them. The next day I set some men to work to make a garden on Long •24 STOCA'LVG THE COl'XTRW [1778. i Island, wliirh I planted with garden KocdH, roots, etc. On the 22nd, in the morning, the owe and ram I had with so nuich earn and troubUi l)rou},'lit to this place w(>ro both found dead, occasioned, as was supposed, by eating some poisonous plant. Thus my hopes of stocking this country with a breed of shc((p were blasted in a moment. About noon wo were visited for the first time since 1 arrived by some of the natives, who dined with us, and it was not a little they devound. In the evening they were dismissed witli presents. On the morning of tlio 24th, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, I went in a boat to the west bay on a shooting party. In our way we met a largo canoe in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they asked was for Tupia, the j)erson I brought from Otaheite on my foriner voyage, and they seemed to express some concern when wo told them ho was dead. Nothing worthy of notice happened till tlie 29th, when several of the natives made us a visit, and brought with them a quantity of fish, which they exchanged for nails, etc. One of these people I took over :o Motuara and showed him some potatoes planted there. There seemed no doubt of their succeeding ; and the man was so well pleased with them that lie of his own accord began to hoe Lhe earth up about the plants. We next took him to the other gardens and showed him the turnips, carrots, and parsnips, roots which, together with the potatoes, will be of more real use to thera than all the other articles we had plantetl. It was easy to give then) an idea of these roots by comparing them with such as they knew. Two or thix'o families of those people now took up their abode near us, employing themselves daily in fishing, and supplying us with the frulLs of their labour.s — the good oHects of which we soon felt ; for wo were by no means such export AhIhts as they are, nor were any of our methods of fishing equal to theirs. On t)»o 2nd of June, the bhip.^ bf>ing nearly ready to put to sea, I sent on shore two goats, male and female. The former was something more than a year old, but the latter was much older. She had two fine kids some time before we arrived in Dusky Pay, Avhich were killed by cold. Captain Fur- neaux also put on shore in Cannibal Cove a boar and two breeding June. [1773. tlio caro oiicd, opes in a nee 1 H not with )tain on a w(>ro nsked told 1773.J CHILDREN ON BOARD. 225 nor S0W8, 80 tlmt wo have reason to hopo this country will in tinici lio stocked with those animals if they are not tlostroyed hy the natives before they become wild, for afterwards they will he in no danger. But OS the natives knew nothin;^ of tlieir being left behind, it may bo somo time before they aro discovered. in our excursion to the east we met with the largest seal T had over seen. It was swimming on the surface of the water, and suflered us to conio near enough to fire at it, but without effiict, for, after a chaso of near an hour, we were obliged to leave it. It certainly bore much resemblance! to tho drawing in Lord Anson's voyage. Our seeing a sea lion when we entered this sound in my former voyage iiuTcasetij the probability ; and T ai i of opinion thoy have their abode on some of tho rocks which lie in tho strait or off Admiralty Day. It was very conunon for tho natives to bring their children with them and present them to us, in expectation that we would make them presents. This happened to me tho j)receding morn- ing : a man brought his son, a boy about nine or ten years of age, and presented him to nie. As there was a report among our people that some of the natives had offered tlu'ir children for sale, 1 thought at first that he wanted me to buy the boy. J3ut at last I founil that he wanted me to give him a white shirt, which I accordingly did. The boy was so fond of his new dress that he went all over the ship presenting himself before every one that came in his way. This freedom used by him offended Old Will, the ram goat, who gave him a butt witli his horns, and knocked him backward on the deck. Will would have repeated his blow had not somo of the people come to the boy's assistance. The misfortune, however, seemed to him irreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the cabin before his father, until brought in by Mr. Forster, when he told a very lamentable story against troun^y, the great dog (for so they call all the quad- rupeds we had aboard) ; nor could he be reconciled till his shirt was washed and dried. This story, though extremely trifling in itself, will show how liable we are to mistake these people's mean- ing, and to ascribe to them customs they never knew even in thought. About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty people, a]ipeared in sight. Our friends on board seemed mi) 15 8f6 INQUIRIES AFTER TUPIA. fl7T8. much alarmed, telling us that these were their enemies. Two of them, the one with a spear and the other with a stone hatchet in his hano , mounted the arm chests on the poop, and there in a kind of bravado bid these enemies defiance, while the others who were on board took to their canoe and went ashore, probably to secure the women and children. All I could do, I could not prevail on the two that remained to call these strangers alongside ; on the contrary, they were dis- pleased at my doing it, and wanted me to fire upon them. The people in the canoe seemed to pay very little regard to those on board, but kept advancing slowly towards the ship, and, after per- forming the usual ceromonios, put alongside. After this the chief was easily prevailed upon to come on board, followed by many others, and peace was immediately established on all sidea One of the first questions these strangers asked was for Tupia ; a«d when I told them lie was dead, one or two expressed their sorrow by a kind of lamentation which to mo appeared more formal than real. A trade soon commenced between our people and them. It was not possible to hinder the fornur from selling the clothes oft' their backs for the merest tiifles, thinors that were neither useful nor curious. This caused me to dismiss: the strangers sooner than I would hii\ c done. These natives live disporsinl in small parties, knowing; no head but the chief of the family or tribe, whoso authority may be very little ; they feel many inconveniences to which well-regulated societies, united under one head or any other form of government, are not subject. Tiiese form laws and regulations for their general good ; they are not alarniefl at the appearance of every striinger ; and, if attacked or invaded by a public enemy, have strongholds to retire to, where they can with advantage defend themselves, their property, and their country. This seems to be the stat*' of most of the inhabitants of Knheinomauwe ; whereas those of Tavai Poenammoo, by living a wandering life in small parties, are destitute of most of these advantages, which subjects them to perpetual alarms. We generally founuaky Day, where 1778.1 INSTRUCTIONS FOR SAILING. 227 each of the two women was armed with a spear not less than eighteen feet in lenj^th. I was led into these reflections by not being able to recollect t'.ie face of any one person I had seen here three years ago. Nor (liu it appear that any one of them had the least knowledge of me or of any person with me that was here at that time. It is there- fore highly probable that the greatest part of the people who inhabited tins sound in the beginning of the year 1770 have been since driven out of it, or have, of their own accord, removed some- where else. Certain it is, that not one-third of the inhabitants were here now that were then. It may be asked, if these people had never seen the Endeavour, nor any of her crew, how could they become acquainted with the name of Tupia, or have in their possession such articles as they could only have got from that shipl To this it may be answered that the name of Tupia was so popular among them when the Endeavour was here, that it would be no wonfler if, at thi.? time, it was known over great part of New Zea- land, and as familiar to those who never saw him as to those who did. Had ships of any otiior nation whatever arrived here, they would have equally iiKpiired of them for Tupia. By the same way of reasoning, many of the articles left here by the Endeavour may be now in possession of those who never saw her. I got from one of the people now present an ear ornament, made of glass very well formed and polished. The glass they must have got from the Endenvotir. Both ships being now ready for sea, I gave Captain Furrieaux Ml account in writing of the route I intended to take, which was to proceed to the cast, between the latitudes of 41" and 46" S. until I arrived iti tlif longitude of 140 or 135° W. ; then, provided no land was discovered, to procc^ed to OtaheiU; ; from thence back to this place l>y the shortest route ; and after taking in wood and wator, to proceed to the south and explor all the unknown parts of the sea between the meridian of New Zealand and Capo Horn. 'rher(>f(jre, in case of separation before we reached Otaheito, 1 appi^inted that island for the place of rendezvous, where he was to wait till the 20th of August. If not joined by me before that time, lie was then to make the best of his way V)ack to Queen l/harlotte's Sound, where he was to wait until the 20th of Novem Mk-y RT 228 SAILING SOUTH. [1778. %■. \ ber. After which, if not joined hy mo, lie was to put to sea and carry into execution their lordships' instructions. 8omr! iiiay think it an extraordinary step in nie to proceed on discoveries as far south as 46° of latitude, in the very depth of winter. But though it must be owned that winter is by no means favourable for discoveries, it nevertheless appeared to nie necessary that Hometliiiig .should be done in it, in order to lessen the work J was upon, lest I should not be able to tinisli the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific Ocean the ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover any land in my route to the east, I should be ready to begin with the sur>nier to explore it. Setting aside all tiiese considerations, I ha ■ liius to fear, liaving two good ships well provided, and healtliy ciewa Where then could I spend my time Ijetter? If T did nothing more, I was at least in hopes of Ijeing able to point out to posterity that tliese seas may be navigated, and that it is {)racticable to go on discoveries even in the very depth of winter. On the 7tli of June, at four in the morning, the wind being more favourable, we unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea, with the Adventure in company. We had no sooner i^ot out of the sound than we found the wind at south, so that we had to ply through the straits. After getting clear of the straits, 1 directed my course SE. by E., liaving a gentle gale, but variable between thy north and west. The late SE. winds having caused a swell from the same quarter whicli did not go down for some days, we had little hopes of meeting with land in that direction. We, however, continued to steer to the SE., and on the 11th crossed the meridian of 180", and got into the west longitude according to my way of reckoning. We continued to stretch to the SE., with a fresh gale and fair weather, till Saturday the '2Gth, when W(> stood to tiie NE. At this time we were in tlie latitude of XT 32', longitude 161° 15' W. The wind remained not long at west, before it veered back to the east by north, but never blew strong. On July 2nd we had a calm, whirh brought (he wind back to the went ; but it was not of long continuance, for tho next day it returned to tlie E. and SE., blew fresh at times and by squalls, with rain. July. 1773.] HEAVY GALES. 329 On the 7th, being in latitude 41° 22', longitudo 150" 12' VV., we had two hours' calm, in which Mr. Wnles went on board tlio Adventure to compare the watches ; and they were found \o agree, allowing for the difference of thoir ratt^s of going — a probable if not a certain proof that they had gone well since we had been in this sea. Tiie calm was succeeded by a wind from the south ; between which point and the NW. it continued for the six succeeding days, but never blew strong. It was, however, attended with a great hollow swell from SW. and W., a sure indication that no largo land was near in theso directions. We strotclKal to the SE. till live o'clock in the afternoon of the 1 1th, at which time, being in the latitude of '13' 1.5', longitude 137' 39' \V., we tacked and stood to the -orth under our courses, having a very hard gale with heavy squalls attended with rain till near noon the next day, when it ended in a calm. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from SW., which soon after increased to a fresh gale, and with it we steered NE. A E. We continued to steer NE. i E. before a very strong gale, which blew in squalls, attended with sliowcra of rain and hail and a very higli sea from the same quarter till the 17th. Being then in latitude 39° U', longitude 133" 32 W., which was a degree and a half farther east than I had Intcmded to run, nearly in the middle between my track to the north in 17G9 and the return to the south in the same year, and seeing no signs of land, I steered north- easterly, with a view of exploring that part of the sea lying between the two tracks just mentioned, down as Inw as the latitude of 27", a splice that h;i(l uut been visited by any preceding navigator that I knew of. On Thursday th.- 22nd wo wore in the latitude of 32' 30', longitud*' 133' 40 W. From this situation we steered NNW. The weather was now so warm that it was necessary to put on lighter clot'ies; the mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to l)3^ It had never been lower than 40°, and seldom higher than 54° at the same time of the day since we left New Zealand. This day was lemarkable by our not seeing a single bird. Not one had passed sime we left the land without our seeing some of tho followi'ig birds — namely, albatrosses, sheurwaters, pintadocs, 03O SCURVY ON BOARD THE ''ADVEMUREP [1778. Wup petrels, and Port Eginont hens. But thoso frequent every part of tlio Southern Ocean in the higher latitudes. Not a bird, nor any otlier thing, was seeu lliiit could induce us to tliink that we had ever been in the neighbourhood of any liviid. The wind kept veering round from the south by the west to NNW., with which wo stretched north till noon the next day, when, being in the latitude of 29^ 22', we tacked and Btretched to the westward. The wind soon increased to a very hard gale, attended with rain, and blew in such heavy squalls as to 8i)lit the most of our sails. In the afternoon of the 25th the sky cleared up, and the weather Uranio fair and settled. Wo now met the first tropical bird we had seoi\ in this sea. On the 29th 1 sent on board the Adventure to inquire into the state of her crew, having heard tliat they were sickly ; and this I now found was but too true. Hor cook was dead, and about twenty of her best nieu were down in the scurvy and flux. At this time wt had only three men on the siek list, and only one ol" ihem attacked with the scurvy. Several more, however, began to show symptoms of it, and were accordingly put upon the wort, marmalade of carrots, mb of lemons and oranges. I know not liow to account for the scurvy raging nK)re in ono ship than in the i Jier, unless it was owing to the erew of tho Adventure being more 8corl>utic when they arrived in New Zealand than wo were, and to their eating few or no vegetables while thoy lay iu Queen Charlott< s "^ jund, partly from want of knowing tho right sorts and jiartly because it was a new di(^t wh '■ one was sufficient for Sf -naen to reject it. To introduce u >y n \^ urticlo of food among seamen, let it bo ever so much for their good, requires both the example and authority of a eonuhai»rJer, without Ixith of which it will bo (bopped i»«fore tm- people are sensible of thi- benefits resulting fnjm it. Were it newssary, J. could name fifty instances in support of tiiis remark. Many of my jieopk", oMieers as well as seamen, at first 'lioliked or?lery, scurvy-grass, etc., being boiled in the |>ea8 au'l wheat, and some rofu8t»eople, to lose any time in looking for it. As we liad now got to the northward of Captain Carteret'.'^ tracks, all hopes of discovering a continent vanished. Islands were all we were to expect to find, until wo retunuHl again to the south. 1 had now — tha^ is, on this and my former voyages — crossetl this ocean in the latitudt; of 40' and upwards, without me-eting any- thing rhut did in the least induce mo to think I should find what I was in search after. On th*^ contrary, everything conspired to make mo believe there is no southern continent between the meridian of America and New Zealand ; at least, this pa,ssage ed, for the space of 18" of limgitude. In my passage to New Zealand in 17G9, we also saw of this weeft them, and ibo scurvy was at a stand. Some cider which he happened to have, and which ho gave to the scor- butic people, contributed not a little to this happy change. On tho 11th, at daybreak, land was seen to tho south. This, upon nearer approach, we found to Ik» hii island of about two leagues in extent, clothed with wood, above whieh the .ocoa-nut tre((s showed their lofty heads. J ju(!»;vxl it to be «>iie of those isles discovered b)' Mr. Hougainville. It lies in the latitude of 17° 24', len^tude 141° 39' W., and T callel it, after the name of the ship, Resolution Island. TV? sickly state of tht; Antly we continued our eonreo to weht, and at six o'clock in the evening land was seen from the 1773.] A /) VEA'TURE IS LA AD. 233 moHt-hoad bearing W. by S. Probably this was another of Bougainville's discoveries. I named it Doubtful Island. At daybreak, the next morning, we discovered land right ahead, distant about two nules, so that daylight advised us of our danger but just in time. This proved another of these low or half-drowned islands. Wo ranged the south side of this islo or shoal at the distance of one or two miles from the coral bank, against whioh the sea broke in a dreadful surf. In the middle is a largo lake or inland sea, in which was a canoe under sail. This island I named after Captain Furneaux. On the 1.3th we saw another of these low islands, which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M, do Bougainville very properly calls this cluster the Dangerous Archijielago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinc('d us that we were surrounded by them, and how necessary it was to proceed with the utmost cautiou, especially in the night. CHAFrER XXII. THK ARRIVAL OF THK HllIPS AT OTAHKITK, WITH AN AfCOL'NT OP THK CRITICAL HITL'ATION THKY WERK IN, ANIl Olf SEVERAL INC1UKNT8 THAT HAPPKNEI) WHILE THBV LAY IN OAITI rUIA BAY— AN ACCOUNT OK BKVKHAL VIHITH TO AND raOll OT(X), OV UOAT.S HEINtJ LEFT ON THE ISLAND, AMI JIANY OTHER PARTICLLAIIS WHICH HAPI'KNED WHILE THE 8HIPS LAY IN MATAVAl BAY. 1773. AUgUlt, ON tlie 15th, at five o'clock in the niorniiip, wu saw Osnabun; island or Maitcu, cliscovored hy Captain Wallis. Soon aft(?r I brought to and waited for the Adventure to come up with us, to ac(iuaiiit Captain Furncaux that it was my intention to put into Oaiti-piha r>ay, iioar th(! SE. end of Otahoite, in order to got what rcfrc'shiucnts we could from that part of the island before we went down to Alatavai. At daybreak, on the 16th, we found ourselves not more than half a league from the reef. The ijreeze now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This made it necessary to lioist out our boats to tow the ships olV; but all their efforts were not suHicient to keep them from being carried near the reef. A number of the inhabitants came ott' in canoes from din'erent parts ; the most of them knew me again, and many inquired for Mr. I'anks and others who wtre with iihj before, but not one asked for Tupiii. As the calm continued, our situation became still more danger- ous. We were, however, not without hopes of getting round the western point of the reef and into the bay, till about two o'clock in the afternoon, when wo came before an opening or break in the reef through which I hoped to get with the sliips. IJut on send- ing to examine it, I found there was not a suflicient d«'pth of water, though it caused such an indraught of the tide of Hood through it as was very near proving fatal to the litxiibUion ; for as soon as the sliips got into this stream they were carried with great impetuosity towanls the reef. The moment I perceived 1778.] //OA'A'OKS OF S II J P WRECK. 335 this 1 orderud 0110 of the warping machines, which we had iii readineHS, to bo carried out with about four liundrcd fatiionis of ropo ; but it liad not tho least etl'ect. Tlio horrors of shipwreck now stared us in tho face. We were not nioro than two cables' length from tho breakers, and yet wo could find no bottont to anchor, the only {)robablo means wo hod left to save tho ships. We, however, dropped an anchor, but before it took hold and brought us up, tho ship was in less than three fathoms water, and struck at every fall of the sea, which broke close under our stern in a dreadful surf and threatened us every moment with shipwreck. The Adceulure, very luckily, brought up close upon our bow without striking. We i)rosently carried out two kedgo anchors with hawsers to each. These found ground a little without the bower, but in what de))th wo never knew. By heaving upon them and cutting oway the bower anchor wo got the slii[) ulloat, where we lay some time in tho greatest anxiety, expecting every minute that either the kedges wor^Ul conio home, or the hawsers bo cut in two by the rocka At length the tide ceased to act in the same direction. I ordered all the boats to try to tow oft' the Resolution, and when I saw this was practicable, we hove the two kedges up. At that moment a light air came oft' from the liu)<:l, which so much assisted tho boats that wo soon got clear of ail danger. Thus we were once more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on tho very island we, but a few days before, so ardently wished to bo at. Tho calm, after bringing us into this dangerous siluation, very fortunately continued ; for had tho sea broezf, as is usual, set in, tho licsofntiou must inevitably have been lost, and prol)ably the Adventure too. During the time we wore in this critical situation, a number of the natives were on boanl and about tho ships. They seemed to bo insensible of our danger, showing not the least surprise, joy, or fear when we were striking, and left us a little before sunset (juito unconcerned. The next morning being the I7tli, wo anchored in Oaiti pilia Hay. Uoth ships soon became crowded with natives, who brought with them cocoa-nuts, i)lantains, bananas, apples, yams, and other roots, which they exchanged for nails and beads. They promised 836 OLD FRIENDS. [X77& to bring hogs and fowls, many of which were seen about the houses of the natives. Nothing, however, was brought to market but fruits and roots. The cry was that tliey belonged to Waheatoua, the Earee de ni or king, and him we had not yet seen. Many, however, who called themselves earees came on board, partly with a view of getting presents, and partly to pilfer what- ever came in their way. One of this sort of earees I had, most of the day, in the cabin, and made presents to him and all his friends, which were not a few. At length he was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out of the quarter gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to me against those on deck, which occasioned my turning them all out of the ship. My cabin guest made haste to be gone. I was so much exasper- atetl at his behaviour that, after he had got some distance from the ship, I fired two muskets over his head, which made him quit the canoe and take to the water. It was not till the evening of this day that any one inquired after Tupia, and then but two or three. As soon as they learned the cause of his death they were quite satisfied. They were continually asking for Mr, Banks and several others who were with me in my former voyage. The people informed us that Tootaha, the regent of the greater peninsula of Otaheite, liad been killed in a battle which was fought between the two kingdoms about five months before, and that Otoo was the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide and several more of our principal friends about Matavai fell in this battle, as also a great number of common people ; but at present a peace subsisted between the two kingdoms. Nothing worthy of note happened till the 20th, when, in tho dusk of the evening, one of the natives made off with a musket belonging to the guard on shore. I was present when this hap- pened, and sent some of our people after him, which would have been to little purpose had not some of the natives, of their own accord, pursued the thief. They knocked him down, took from him the musket, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occasion, certainly operated more with them than principle. They, however, deserve to be applauded for this act of justice ; for if they had not given their immediate assistance, it would hardly have been 778. tho to ten. Jrd, liat- 1778.] FRIEXDLLXESS OF THE CHIEF. 237 in my power to havo rficovered tlio muskot by any gontlo incaiis wliatover, and l)y making use of any other I was sure to loso more tlian ten times its value. On tlio 22nd I was informed that Wahoatona was come into the neighbourliood and wanted to seo me. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set out in company with Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of tho natives. We met the chief about a mile from the landing-place, toward which ho was advancing to meet us ; but as soon us ho saw us ho stopped, witli his numerous train, in the open air. I found him seated upon a stool with a circle of people round him, and knew him at first sight and he nw", having seen each other several times in 17G9. At that time lie was but a boy ami went by the name of Tearcie, but upon tho death of his father Waheatoua, he took upon himself that name. After tho first salutation was over, having seated me on tlio same stool with himself, and tho other gentlemen on the ground by us, ho began to inquire after several by name who were with mo on my former voyage. He next inquired how long I would stay, and when I told him no longer than next day, he seemed sorry, asked me to stay some months, and at last came dowsi to five days, promising that in that time I should havo hogs in plenty ; but as I had been here already a week without so much as getting one, I could not put any faith in this promise. And yet, I believe, if 1 had stayed, we should have fared much better than at Matavai. The prest at T made him consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad axe, spike-nails, knives, looking-glasses, medals, beads, etc. In return he ordered a pretty good hog to bo carried to our boat. We stayed with him all tho morning, during which timo ho never suffered me to go from his side where he was seated. I was also seated on the same stool, which was carried from place to place by one of his attendants, whom we called stool-bearer. At length we took leave in order to return on board to dinner, after which wo visited him again and made him more presents, and ho in return gave Captain Furneaux and me each a hog. Some others were got by exchanges at tho trading places, so that we got on the whole to-day as much fi-esh pork as gave the crews of both ships a meal, and this in consequence of our having this interview with the chief. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I •^ Ilia I' IIAO 11^ 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1 1-6 / w Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ lO' ^<^ o iV c> <^ ^^v, 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 w & 238 MA TA VAI BA V AGAIN. (1773. The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recov- ery of the Adventure's sick people. Many of them who had been so ill as not to be able to move without assistance were, in a short time, so far recovered that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in here the liesoJittion had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine who had been long sick, and who died, the second day after our arrival, of a complication of disorders without the least mixture of the scurvy. I left Lieutenant Pickersgill with the cutter behind in the bay to purchase hogs, as several had promised to bring some down to-day and I was not willing to lose them. On the 25th Mr. Pickersgill returned with eight pigs which he got at Oaiti-piha. lie spent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertained by Ereti, the chief of that district. It was remarkable that this chief never once asked after Aotourou, nor did he take the least notice when Mr. Pickersgill mentioned his name. And yet M. de Bougainville tells us this is the very chief who presented Aotourou to him; which makes it the more extraor- dinary that he should neither inquire after him now, nor when he was with us at Matavai, especially as they believed that we and M. de Bougainville came from Pretane, for so they called our country. We told several of them that M. de Bougainville came from France, a name they could by no means pronounce, nor could they pronounce that of Paris much better, so that it is not likely that they will remember either the one or the other long, whereas Pretane is in every child's mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till the evening of this day that wo arrived in Matavai Bay. Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with the natives, many of whom I knew, and almost all of them knew me. A great crowd were gotten together upon the shore, amongst whom was Otoo their king. I was just going to pay him a visit, when I was told he was "matncw'd" and gone to Oparree. J could not conceive the reason of his going off in a fright, as every one seemed pleased to see me. Having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the sick, coopers, sailmakers, and the guard, I set out on the 2Cth for Oparree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, m\ 1773.] y/S/T TO OPARREE. 239 and others. As soon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo, whom we found seated on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd round him. After the first compliments were over, I pi'esentod him with such articles as I guessed were m'^'t valuable in his eyes, well knowing that it was my interest to gain the friendship of this man. The king inquired for Tupia and all the gentlemen that were with me in my former voyage by name, although I do not remember that he was personally acquainted Avith any of us. He promised that I should have some hogs the next day, but I had much ado to obtain a promise from him to visit me on board. Ho said he was afraid of the guns. Indeed all his actions showed him to be a timorous prince. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine, personable, well-made man as one can see. All his subjects appeared uncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by un- covering is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort of clothing above the breast. When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents and the astronomer's observatories set up, on the same spot where we observed the transit of Venus in 17G9. In the afternoon I had the sick landed; twenty from the Adventure, all ill of the scurvy, and one from the Resolution. On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid me a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish ; and after some persuasion, came aboard himself, with his sister, a younger 'jrother, and several more of his attendants. To all of them I made presents, and after breakfast took the king, his sister, and as many more as I had room for, into my boat and carried them home to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met by a venerable old lady, the mother of the late Tootaha. She seized mi by both hands, and bi'rst into a flood of tears, saying, "Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty Tootaha" (Tootaha, your friend or the friend of Cook, is dead). I was so much aflected with her behaviour that it would have been impossible for me to have restrained mingling my tears with hers had not Otoo come and taken me from her. Captain Furneaux, who was with me, presented the king with two fine goats, male and female, which if taken care of, or rather if no care at all is taken of them, will no doubt multiply. %\ 240 DRAMA TIC PERFORMANCES. [1778. Il A little after sunrise on the 28th I had another visit from Otoo. When he came into the cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were sitting there. The moment they saw the king enter, they stripped themselves in great haste, being covered before. Seeing that I took notice, they said, " Earee, earee," giving nie to under- stand that it was on account of Otoo being present. This was all the respect they paid him, for they never rose from their seats, nor mado him any other obedience. When the king thought proper to depart, I carried him again in my boat to Oparree, where I entertained him and his people with the bagpipes (of which music they are very fond), and dancing by the seamen. On the evening of the 29th we were conducted to the theatre, where we were entertained with a dramatic play in which Avere both dancing and comedy. The performers were five men and one woman, who was no less a person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only. It was not possible for us to find out the meaning of the play. Some part seemed adopted to the present time, as ray name was frequently mentioned. The dancing dress of the lady was more elegant than any I saw there, by being decorated with long tassels made of feathers, hanging from the waist downwai'ds. As soon as all was over the king himself desired me to depart. On the 31st we paid our last visit to Otoo. When I acquainted him that I should sail from the island the next day, he seemed much moved and embraced me several times. The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water- casks repaired and water completed, as well as the neces- sary repairs of the ships, I ordered everything to be got off from the shore and the ships to be unmoored. Some hours before we got under sail, a young man whose name was Poreo came and desired I would take him with me. Many more offered themselves, but I refused to take them. I consented to take the youth, thinking he might be of service to us on some occasion. Though he seemed pretty well satisfied, he could not refrain from weeping when he viewed the land astern. ! Sepi;. ! i DANCING WOMAN, OTAHEITE. /'(r.i.v ^-10. DOUBLE CANOE OF TONGATABU. /'.>iv iS.;. 1 CHAPTER XXIII. AN ACCOUNT OF THE RECEPTION WE 5JET WITH AT HUAHEINE, WITH THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIPS LAY THERE, AND OF OMAI, ONE OP THE NATIVES, COMING AWAY IN THE " ADVENTURE "—ARRIVAL AT AND DEPARTURE OF THE SHIPS FK031 ULIETEA, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF WHAT HAPPENED THERE, AND OF OEDIDEE, ONE OF THE NATIVES, C05IING AWAY IN THE "resolution." 1773. Sept. AS soon as we -were clear of the bay, I directed my course for the island of Huaheine. At daylight in the morning of the 3rd we made sail for the harbour of Owharre, in which the Resolution anchored. I landed with Captain Fur- neaux, and was received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. I distributed some presents among tliem, and presently after they brought down hogs, fowls, dogs, and fruit. Trade was soon opened on board the ships, so that we made fair prospect of being plen- tifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls, and, to people in our situation, this was no unwelcome thing. I learned that my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, and that he was hastening to this part to see me. On the 4th of September, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, I went to pay my first visit to Oree. We were conducted to the place by one of the natives, but were not permitted to go out of the boat till we had gone through some part of the following ceremony. The boat, in which we were desired to remain, being landed before the chief's house, that stood close to the shore, five young plantain trees, which are their emblems of peace, were brought on board separately and with some ceremony. Three young pigs, with their ears ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three ; and a dog the fourth. Lastly, the chief sent to me the inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter which I left with him in July 1769. It was in the same bag I had made for it, together with a piece of countc "eit English (501) 16 f 1 1 ■ f ,1 242 RECEPTION A T HU A HEINE. [1773. coin and a few beods, put in at the same time, whicli shows how well ho had taken care of the whole. When they had made an end of putting into the boat the things just mentioned, our guide, who still remained with us, desired us to decorate three young plantain trees with looking-glasses, nails, etc. This being ac- cordingly done, we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted towards the chief through the multitude, they making a lane, as it were, for us to pass through. We were made to sit down a few paces short of the chief, and our plantains were then taken from us and one by one laid before him. One was for Eatou (or God), the second for tiie Eareo (or king), and the third for Tiyo (or friendship). This being done the king came to me, fell upon my neck, and embraced me. This was by no means ceremo- nious ; the tears which trickled plentifully down his venerable old cheeks sufficiently bespoke the language of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends were introduced to us, to whom we made presents. Mine to the chief consisted of the most valuable articles I had, for I regarded this man as a father. This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th, bringing me a hog and some fruit, for which I made him a suitable return. lie carried his kindness so far as not to fail to send me every day, for my table, the very best of ready-dressed fruit and roots in great plenty. On the 7th, early in the morning, T went to pay my farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster. We took with us for a present such things as were not only valuable but useful. I also left with him the inscription plate he had before in keeping, and another small copper plate on which were engraved the words, " Anchored here. His Britannic Majesty's ships Resolution and Adventure, September 1773," together with some medals, all put up in a bag ; all of which the chief promised to take care of, and to produce to the first ship or ships that should arrive at the island. The chief came on board and stayed till we were full half a league out at sea, then took a most affectionate leave of me, and went away in a canoe conducted by one man and himself. During our short stay at the small but fertile island of Hualieine, we procured for both ships not less than three hundred m 1773] OAfA/'S VISIT TO ENGLAXD. «43 hogs, besides fowls and fruits; and had we stayed longer might have got many more : for none of these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but appeared everywhere in as great abundance as ever. Before we quitted this island Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board his ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietoa, where he had had some property, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. I at first rather wondered that Captain Furneaux would encumber himself with this man, who, in my opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth or acquired rank, nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion ; for their people of the first rank are much fairer, and usually better behaved and are more intelligent, than the middling class of people, among whom Omai is to be ranked. I have, however, since my arrival in England, been convinced of my error, for I much doubt whether any other of the natives would have given more general satisfaction by his behaviour among us. Omai has most certainly a very good understanding, quick parts, and honest principles ; he has a natural good behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best company, and a proper degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons of inferior rank. Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the first Lord of the Admiralty, introduced him to His Majesty at Kew, when he met with a most gracious reception, and imbibed the strongest impression of duty and gratitude to that great and amiable prince, which I am persuaded he will preserve to the latest moments of his life. During his stay among us he was caressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit the esteem of any one of them ; but his principal patrons were the Earl of Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander. The former probably thought it a duty of liis office to protect and countenance an inhabitant of that hospitable country where the wants and distresses of those in his department had been alleviated and supplied in the most ample manner ; the others, as a testimony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with (luring their residence in his country. It is to bo observed that though Omai lived in the midst of f'l i\H. 244 AT ULIETEA. [1773. amusoments during his residence in England, liis return to his native country was always in his thoughts ; and though ho was not impatient to go, ho expressed a satisfaction as the time of liis return approached. He embarked with lue in the Resohitii/n when she was fitted out for another voyage, loaded with presents for his several friends, and full of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced among up. The chief was no sooner gone than we made sail for Ulietea, Arriving off the harbour of Ohamaneno at the close of the day, wo spent the night making short boards. It was dark, but we were sufliciently guided by the fishers' lights on the reefs and shores of the isles. The next morning wo gained the entrance of the harbour. We were no sooner at anchor than the natives crowded round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. I had forgot to mention that Tupia was much inquired after at Huaheine ; but at this place every one asked about him and the occasion of his death, and, like true philosophers, were perfectly satisfied with the answers we gave them. Indeed, as wo had nothing but the truth to tell, the story was the same, by whomsoever told. Next morning we paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the isle, carrying with us the necessary presents. We went through no sort of ceremony at landing, but were at once conducted to him. He was seated in his own house, which stood near the water-side, where he and his friend received us with great cordiality. He expressed much satisfaction at seeing me again, and desired that we might exchange names, which I accordingly agreed to. I believe this is the strongest mark of friendship they can show to a stranger. He inquired after Tupia and all the gentlemen, by name, who were with me when I first visited the island. The next day we were entertained by him with such a comedy or dramatic display as is generally acted in the.se isles. The music consisted of three drums ; the actors were seven men and one woman, the chief's daughter. The only entertaining part in the drama was a theft committed by a man and his accomjilice, in Buch f. masterly manner as sufficiently displayed the genius of the H 1773.] A NATIVE DINNER. 245 people in tliis vice. After the play was over we returned on board to dinner ; and in the cool of tlie evening took a walk on shore, whore we learned from one of the natives that nine small islands, two of which were uninhabited, lay to the westward, at no great distance from hence. On the 11th, early in the morning, I had a visit from Oreo and his son, a youth about twelve years of age. Tlio latter brought me a hog and some fruit, for which I made him a present of an axe, and dressed him in a shirt and other things, which made him not a little proud of himself. On Tiosday the 1-lth I acquainted the chief that I would dine with him, and desired lie would order two pigs to bo dressed after their manner, which ho accordingly did ; and about one o'clock, I and the ofKcers and gentlemen of both ships went to partake of these. When we came to the chief's house we found the cloth laid — that is, green leaves wore strewed thick on the floor. Round them we seated ourselves. Presently one of the pigs came over my head souse upon the leaves, and immediately after the other, both so hot as hardly to be touched. The table was garnished round with hot bread-fruit, and plantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for drink. Each man being ready, with his knife in his hand, we turned to without ceremony, and it must be owned in favour of their cookery that victuals were never cleaner or better dressed. For though the pigs were served uji whole, and the one weighea oetween 50 and 60 lbs. and the other about half as much, yet all the parts were equally done, and ate much sweeter than if dressed in any of our methods. The chief and his son and some other of his male friends ate with us, and pieces were handed to others who sat behind, for we had a vast crowd about us, so that it might be truly said we dined in public. Tho chief never failed to drink his glass of madeira whenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when he dined with us, without ever being once affected by it. When we rose up, many of the connnon people rushed in to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which they searched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe that, though there is plenty of pork at these isles, but little falls to their share. In tho after- noon we v/ere entertained with a play. 246 LEAVING ULIETEA. [1773. On tho IGth I was told that my Otaheitcan young man, Porco, had taken a resolution to leave mo. Ho had contracted a friend- ship with a young woman. Having my powder-horn in keeping, lio came and gave it to ono of my people who was by me, and then went away with her, and I saw him no more. Having now got on board a largo supply of refreshments, I determined to put to sea tho next morning. At four o'clock we began to unmoor, and as soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and somo of his friends, came on board. Many canoes also came oif with fruit and hogs ; the latter they even begged of us to tako from them, calling out, "Tiyo boa atoi" (I am thy friend, tako my hog and give me an axe). But our decks were alread • > full of them that we could hardly move, having on board both ships betweeri three and four hundred. The ohief and his friends did not leave me till we were under sail, and before he went away, pressed mo much to know if I would not return, and when ? — questions which were daily put to me by many of these islanders. My Otaheitcan youth's leaving me proved of no consequence, as many young men of this island voluntarily offered to come away with us. I thought proper to take one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named Ocdidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great Opoony, chief of that island. 773. 't'O, ncl- lio leii I CHAPTER XXIV. PASSAOB FROM (JLIKTEA TO illK FUIENDLY ISLANDS, WITH AN ACCOINT OK THK DISCOVEHY OK ir.. KY'.S 1 fANI) AND .tlK INi lOENTS THAT HAl'I'ENKU AT MinULEliUUU— Till. AllUlVAL OF I'HE SHIPS AT AllSTEKIIAM ; A DESCKIT- TION OP A PLACE OF WOll.SHIP, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE 1 lll'V REMAINED AT THAT ISLAND— A DESCUIP- TION OF THE LSI \NDS, THEIIl PRODUCE, ETC. 1773. Sept. AFTER loavin<7 Uliotea, as before mentioned, I stuerod to the west, inclining to the «outh, to g(;t clear of the tracks of former navigators, and to get into the latitude of tho islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam, for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch there, if I found it con- venient, before I hauled up for Now Zealand. On the 23rd, at ten o'clock in tlie morning, land was seen from the top-mast head. This was found to consi.st of two or three small islets, connected together by breakers, lying in a triangular form. Wo saw no people or signs of inhabitants. I named it Hervoy's Island, in honour of the Hon. Captain Hervey of the navy, one of the Lords of the Admiralty and now Earl of Bristol. At two o'clock p.m. on tho 1st of October we made tho island of Middleburg. We had scarcely got to an anchor before we were surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who had brought with them cloth and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, etc. Several came on board : amongst them was one whom, by the authority he seemed to have over tj.> others, I found to bo a chief, and accordingly made him a present of a hiitdiet, spike-nails, etc., with which he was highly pleased. Thus i oLitained tho friendship of this chief, whoso uamo was Tioony. Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony, who conducted us to a little creek where landing was extremely easy. Here we found an innuense crowd of peoplo, October. 248 THE FRIENDL Y ISLES. [1773, who welcomed us on shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick or any other weapon in his hand — an indubitable sign of their pacific intentions. The chief conducted us up to his house, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of a fine lawn and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at anchor ; behind and on each side were plantations, in which were some of the richest productions of nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which we were seated, and the people seated themselves in a circle round us on the outside. Bananas and cocoa-nuts were set before us to eat, and a bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of eava for us to drink. Pieces of the root were first offered to us to chew, but as we excused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed by others. When sufiiciently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl, then mixed with water in the manner already related ; and as soon as it was ])roperly strained for drinking, they made cups by folding of green leaves, which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of these filled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it, the manner of brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. After this, we signified our desire of seeing the country. Tioony very readily assented, and conducted us through several plantations, which were laid out with great judgment and enclosed with very neat fences made of reeds. Some hogs and very largo fowls were the only dorae.stic animals we saw, and these they did not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day, offer in exchange any fruit or roots worth mentioning, Avhich determined me to leave this island and to visit that of Amsterdam. We anchored in Van Diemcn's Koad on the 3rd of October in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a cable's length from the breakei'S which lino the coast. Wc were soon crowded with jjcople ; some came off in canoes and others swam, but, like those r.t the other isle, brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, etc. But when the natives saw we would purchase notliing but eaiu,b!es, they brought off bananas and cocoa-nuts ir. .•\bundttnce, some fowls, and pigs. 1773. 1773.] RELIGIO US CEREMON Y. 249 e of d— After breakfast I landed, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, having along with us a chief, Attago, who had attached himself to me from the first moment of his coming on board. I know not how he came to discover I was the commander, but certain it is he was not long on deck before he singled me out from all the other gentlemen, making me a present of some cloth ; and, as a greater testimony of friendship, we now exchanged names, a custom which is practised at Otaheite and the Society Isles. My friend Attago conducted us to a creek, and there we landed dry on the beach, in the face of a vast crowd of people, who received us in the same friendly manner that those of Middleburg had done. On the 4th of October we signified to the chief our desire to see the country. He immediately took the hint and conducted us along a lane that led to an open green, on the one side of which was a house of worship built on a mount that had been raised by the hand of man, about 16 or 18 feet above the common level. It had an oblong figure, and was enclosed by a wall or parapet of stone about three feet in height. From this wall the mount rose with a gentle slope, and was covered with a green turf. On the top of it stood the house, which had the same figure as the mount, about 20 feet in length and 14 or 16 broad. As soon as we came before the place every one seated himself on the green, about 50 or 60 yards from the front of the house. Presently came three elderly men, who seated themselves between us and it and began a speech, which I understood to be a prayer, it being wholly directed to the house. This lasted about ten minutes, and then the priests — for such I took them to be— came and sat down alung with us, when we made them presents of such things as were about us. Having then made signs that we wanted to view the premises, my friend Attago immediately got up, and going with us, gave us full liberty to examine every part of it. In the front were two stone steps leading to the top of the wall ; from this the ascent to the house was easy, round Avhich was a fine gravel walk. The house ^vas built in all respects like to their common dwcUiiig-houses ; that is, with posts and rafters, and covered with palm thatch. The Hoor of tiie house was laid witli line gravel. At the corner of the house stood an imago rudely 1^'' 250 FERTILITY OF THE LAND. L1773. carved in wood, and on one side lay another, each about two feet in length. I, who had no intention to offend either them or their gods, did not so much as touch them, but asked Attago as well as I could if they were gods. Whether he understood me or not I cannot say, but he immediately turned them over and over in as rough a manner as he would have done any other log of wood, which convinced me that they were not there as representatives of the Divinity. I was curious to know if the dead were interred there, and asked Attago several questions relative thereto ; but I was not sure that he understood me — at least I did not understand the answers he made well enough to satisfy my inquiries. For the reader must know that, at our first coming among these people, we hardly could understand a word they said. Before we quitted the house we thought it necessary to make an offering at the altar. Accordingly we laid down upon the blue pebbles some medals, nails, and several other things; which we had no sooner done than my friend Attago took them up and put them in his pocket. This mount stood in a kind of grove open only upon the side which fronted the high-road and the green on which the people were seated. At this green or open place was a junction of five roads, two or three of which appeared to be very public ones. After we had done examining this place of worship, 'fid desired to return, but instead of conducting us to the water-side, as we expected, they struck into a road leading into the country. The road, which was about sixteen feet broad and as level as a bowling- green, seemed to be a very public one, there being many other roads from different parts leading into it, all enclosed on each side with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorching sun by fruit trees. I thought I was transplanted into the most fertile plains in Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground ; the roads occupied no more space than was absolutely necessary, the fences did not take up above four inches each, and even this was not wholly lost, for in many were phint»;d some useful trees or plants. It was everywhere the same ; change of place altered not the scene. N^ature, assisted by a little art, nowhere appears in more splendour than at this isle. In these delightful walks wo 1773, feet 177a] BOUNTIFUL SUPPLIES. 251 met numbers of people. Tliey all gave us the road by turning either to the right or left, and sitting down, or standing, with their backs to the fences, till we had passed. On our return I happened to go down with Attago to the landing-place, and there found Mr. Wales in a laughable though distressed situation. The boats which brought i:s on shore not being able to get near the landing-place for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off his shoes and stockings to walk through ; and as soon as he got on dry land he put them down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched away by a person behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It was impossible for him to follow the man barefooted over the sharp coral rocks which compose the shore without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat was put back to the ship ; his companions had each made his way through the crowd, and he left in this condition alone. Attago soon found out the thief, recovered his shoes and stockings, and set him at liberty. The chief, probably thinking that we might want water on board, conducted us to a plantation hard by, and showed us a pool of fresh water, though we had not made any inquiry after any. I believe this to be the same that Tasman calls the washing-ylace for his kings and nobles. Attago was very importunate with me to return again to this isle, and to bring with me cloth, axes, nails, etc., telling me I should have hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots in abundance. He par- ticularly desired me, more than once, to bring him such a suit of clothes as I had on, which was my uniform. This good-natured islander was very serviceable to me on many occasions during our shoit stay. He was always ready, either on board or on shore, to do me all the service in his power ; his fidelity was rewarded at a small expense, and I found my account in having such a friend. At ten o'clock on the 7th wo got under sail; but as our docks wc. 1 I'Uich encumbered with fruit, etc., we kept plying under the land till they were cleared. The supplies we got at this isle were about 150 [)igs, twice that number of fowls, as many bananas and cocoa-nuts as we could find room for, with a few yams ; and had our stay been longer, we, no doubt, might have got a great m ■ 252 AMSTERDAM AND MIDDLEBURG. [1773. This in some degree shows the fertility of tlio island, together with tlie neighbouring one of Middleburg, I deal more. of which, shall now give a more particular account. These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman in January 1642-3, and by him called Amsterdam and Middleburg. But the former is called by the natives Tongatabu, and the latter Ea-oo-wee. Middleburg is about ten leagues in circuit; the skirts of the isle are mostly taken up in the plantations. The interior parts are but little cultivated, though very fit for cultivation. However, the want of it added greatly to the beauty of the isle ; for here are, agreeably dispersed, groves of cocoa-nuts and other trees, lawns covered with thick grass, here and there plantations, and paths leading to every part of the island, in such beautiful sh water, which, as it is shut up in the bowels of the earth, they are obliged to dig for. A running stream was not seen, and but one well, at Amsterdam. At Middleburg we saw no water but that the natives had in vessels ; but as it was sweet and cool, I had no doubt of its being taken up upon the island. So little do we know of their religion that I hardly dare mention it. The buildings called Asiatoncas, befoi'e mentioned, are undoubtedly set apart for this purpose. Some of our gentle- men were of opinion that they were merely burying-places. I can only say, from my own knowledge, that they are places to which particular persons directed set speeches, which I understood to be prayers, as hath been already related. Joining my opinion with that of others, I was inclined to think that they are set apart to be both temples and burying-places, as at Otaheite, or even in Europe. But I have no idea of the images being idols, not only from what I saw myself, but from Mr. Wales informing me that they set one of them up for him and others to shoot at. It cannot be supposed that we could know much either of their 1773.] LANGUAGE. 257 civil or religious policy in so short a time as four or five tlays, especially as we understood but little of their language. Even the two islanders we had on board could not at first understand them ; and yet as we became the more acquainted with them we found their language was nearly the same spoken at Otalieite and the Society Isles, the ditforencc not being greater than what we find betwixt the most northern and western parts of Englar I tr Ml (Mil 17 CHAPTER XXV. PASSAGE FROII AMSTHRDAM TO QUERN CHARI-OTTE'S SOl'Nn, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF AN INTERVIEW WITH THE INHABITANTS, AND THE FINAL SEPARATION OF THE TWO SHIPS— TRANSACTIONS IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE INHABITANTS BEING CANNIBALS, AND VARIOUS OTHER INCIDENTS— DEPARTURE FROM THE SOUND, AND OUR ENDEAVOURS TO FIND THE "ADVENTURE," WITH SOME DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST. 1773. October, ON Thursday, the 7th of October, we made sail to the southward, having a gentle gale at SE. by E., it being my intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand, there to take in wood and water, and then to go on further discoveries to the south and east. In the afternoon of the 8th we made the island of Pilstart, discovered by Tasinan. At live o'clock in the morning of the 21st we made the land of New Zealand. I was very desirous of having some intercourse with the natives of this country as far to the north as possible, that is about Poverty or Tolago Bays, where I apprehended they were more civilized than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in order to give them sonic hogs, fowls, seeds, roots, etc., which I had provided for the purpose. Wc continued our course along shore, past Capo Kidnappers, till nine o'clock, when being about three leagues short of Black- head, we saw some canoes put off from the shore. Those in the llrst canoe were fishers, and exchanged some fish for pieces of cloth and nails. In the next were two men, whom by their dross and behaviour I took to be chiefs. These two wtsro easily prevailed on to come on board. To the principal of thcin I gave pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. He made me a promise not to kill the pigs and fowls, and if he keeps his word and proper care is taken of them, there were enough to stock the whole island in duo time, being two boars, two sows, four hens, two cocks. The seeds were such as are most useful — namely, wheat, Fnnich and kidney beans, peas, 1773.] LOSS OF THE ''ADVENTURE." 959 cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnij)S, and yams. With these articles thoy wore dismissed. It was evident these people had not forgot the Endeavour being on their coast, for the tirst words th(y spoko to us were, " Matou no te pow pow " (wo are afraid of tho guns). At eleven o'clock on tho 23rd we wore close in with Capo Turnagain, and at noon on tho 24th Capo Palliser bore west, distant eight or nine leagues. This capo is the southern point of Eahoinonmuwe. On the 29th the wind shifted to SW. Wo were now about three leagues from tho capo, and wo began to reckon what tinio wo should reach tho sound the next day. But at nine tho wind shifted to its old quarter, NW., and blow a fresh gale, with which we stretched to the SW., with the Adventure in company. She was seen until midnight, at which time she Avas two or three miles astern, and presently after she disappeared ; nor was she to bo seen at daylight. Wo supposed she had tacked and stood to the NE., by which manoeuvre we lost sight of her. We continued to stretch to the westward, with the Avind at NNW., which increased in such a manner as to bring us under two courses, after splitting a new maintop-sail. At noon Cape Campbell boro W. by N., distant seven or eight leagues. At three in tho afternoon the gale began to abate and to veer more to the north, so that we fetched in with the land, under the Snowy Mountains, about four or five leagues to windward of the Lookers-on, where there was the appearance of a lai'ge bay. I now regretted tho loss of the AdvPAiture, for had she been with me I should have given up all thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's Sound to wood and water, and have sought for a place to get these articles farther south, as the wind was now favourable for ranging along the coast. But our separation made it necessary for me to repair to the sound, that being the place of rendezvous. On the 1st of November we passed Cape Campbell and entered the strait with a brisk gale astern, and so likely to continue that we thought of nothing less than reaching our port tho next morning. Once more we were to be deceived. At six o'clock, being off Cloudy Bay, oyr favourable wind was succeeded by one from the north-west, which increased to a fresh gale. We spent tho night plying. Our tacks proved disadvantageous, and Nov. 11 ' I i;f *. a6o QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUXD. [1773. oring the ship, was to unbend it what wanted repair. Indeed red niucli damage in beating otf wo lost morn on the ebb tlian wo j;ained on the flood. Next morning we stretched over for the shore of Eaheinomauwe. At sunrise, the horizon 1)eing extraordinarily clear to leeward, wo look((d well out for the Advnilurr, but as wo saw nothing of her, judged she had got into the sound. On the 2nd of November we hauled up into tho sound just at dark, after making two boards, in which most of oui' sails were split, and anchored in eighteen fathoms water. The next day we weighed and ran up into Ship Cove, where we did not find the Adventure as was expected. The first thing we did, after ) all the sails, there not being OU' both our sails and rigging had sui tho strait's mouth. We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the natives, several of "horn I rememl>ered to have seen when I was here in the Endeavour, particularly an old man named Goubiah. Most of our broad being in casks, I ordered some to be opened, when, to our mortification, we found a good deal of it damaged. To repair this loss in the Ijest manner we could, all the casks were opened, the bread was picked, and the copper oven set up to bake such parcels of it as, by that means, could be recovered. Here I saw the youngest of tho two sows Captain Furneaux had put on shore in Cannibal Cove when we were last here ; it was lame of ono of its hind-legs, otherwise in good case and very tamo. If we understood these people right, the boar and tho other sow were also taken away and separated, but not killed. We were likewise told that the two goats I had put on shore up the sound had been killed by that old rascal Goubiah. Thus all our endeav- ours to stock this country with useful animals were likely to be frustrated by the very people wo meant to serve. Our gardens had fared somewhat better. Everything in them, except the potatoes, they had left entirely to nature, who had acted her part so well that we found most articles in a flourishing state, a proof that the winter must have been mild. The potatoes had most of them been dug up ; some, however, still remained, and were growing, though I think it is probable they will never be got out of the ground. 1773.] WAITING FOR THE ''ADVENTURE. 261 Next morning T wont ovor to tho cove wlioro tlio natives reside, to liaul the seine, and took witli mo a boar and a young sow, two cocks and two hens, wo liad brouglit from the isles. Theso I gavo to tho natives, being persuaded thoy would take proper caro of thorn by their keeping Captain Furnoaux's how near five months ; for I am to suppose it was caught soon after we sailed. Wo had no good success with the seine ; noveitheless we did not return on board quite emjity, having purchased a large quantity from the natives. When we were upon this traffic, they showed a great inclination to i)ick my pockets, and to take away the fish with one hand which they had just given me with tho other. This evil one of the chiefs undertook to remove, and with fury in his eyes made a show of keeping the people at a proper distance. I applauded his conduct, but at tho same time kept so good a lookout as to detect him in picking my pocket of a liandkorciiief, which I suH'ored him to put in his bosom beforo I seemed to know anything of the matter, and then told him what I had lost. He seemed quite ignorant and innocent, till I took it from him, and then he put it off with a laugh, acting his part with so much address that it was hardly possible for me to be angry with him, so that we remained good friends and he accompanied me on board to dinner. The 15th being a pleasant morning, a party of us went over to East Bay and climbed one of the hills, which overlooked the eastern part of tho strait, in order to look for the Adventure. We had a fatiguing walk to little purpose, for when we came to the summit we found the horizon so foggy that we could not see above two miles. I now began to despair of seeing tho Adventure any more ; but was totally at a loss to conceive what was become of her. Till now I thought she had put into some port in the strait, when the wind came to NW., the day we anchored in the cove, and waited to complete her water. This conjecture was reasonable enough at first, but it was now hardly probable she could be twelve days in our neighbourhood without our either hearing or seeing something of her. Tho hill we now mounted is the same that I Avas upon in 1770, when I had the second view of the strait ; we then built a tower with the stones we found there, which we now saw had been in 262 DIFFICULTIES IN STOCKING Ck^JNTRY. [1773. 1? i levelled to the ground, no doubt by the natives with a view of finding something hid in it. On the 22nd I took four hogs (that is, three sows and one boar), two cocks and two hens, which I landed in the bottom of the West Bay, carrying them a little way into the woods, where we left them witli as much food as would serve them ten or twelve days. Wo also left some cocks and liens in the woods in Ship Cove, but these will have a chance of falling into the hands of the natives, whoso wandering M'ay of life will hinder them from bnicding, even suppose they should be taken proper care of. Indeed they took rather too much care of those which I had already given them, by keeping them continually confined, for fear of losing them in the woods. The sow pig we had not seen since the day they had her from me ; but we were now told she was still living, as also the old boar and sow given them by Captain Furneaux, so that there is reason to hope they may succeed. It will be unfortunate, indeed, if every method I have taken to provide this country with useful animals should be frustrated. We were likewise told that the two goats were still alive and running about; but I gave more credit to the first story than this. I should have replaced them bj' leaving behind the other two I had left, !nit had the misfortune to lose the ram soon after our arrival here. After this it would have been vain to leave the she-goat. Thus the reader will see how every method I have taken to stock this country with sheep and goats has proved ineffectual. Calm or light airs from the north all day on the 23rd hindered us from putting to sea as intended. In the afternoon some of the officers went on shore to amuse themselves among the natives, where they saw the luiad and bowels of a youth, who had been lately killed, lying on the beach ; and the heart stuck on a forked stick, which was fixed to the head of one of the largest canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head and brought it on board, where a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the natives before all the officers and most of the men. I was on shore at this time, bat soon after rp' 264 PLENTIFUL SUPPLY OF FISH. [1773. themselves would wish to be treated, but treat them as thoy expect to be treated. If I remember right, one of the arguments they made use of to Tujiia, who frequently expostulated with them against this custom, was that there could be no harm in killing and eating the man who would do the same by them if it were in his power. " For," said thoy, " can there be any harm in eating our enemies whom we have killed in battle ? Would not these very enemies have done the same to us ? " I have often seen them listen to Tupia with great attention, but I never found he could persuade any one of them that this custom was wrong. And when Oedidee and several of our people showed their abhorrence of it, they only laughed at them. Among many reasons which I have heard assigned for the prevalence of this lioi'rid custom, the want of animal food has been one ; but how far tliis is deducible either from facts or circum- stances, I shall leave those to find out who advanced it. In every part of New Zealand where I have been, fish Avas in such plenty that the natives generally caught as much as served both themselves and us. They have also plenty of dogs, nor is there any want of wild fowl; sd that neither this nor the want of food of any kind can, in m\ opinion, be the reason. During our stay in the sound we were plentifully supplied with fish ; and besides the vegetabl(?s our own gardens airorded, wo found everywhere plenty of scurvy-grass and celery, which I caused to be c' cssed every day for all hands. By this means they had been mostly on a fresh diet for the three preceding months, and at this time we had neither a sick nor scorbutic man on board. The morning before we sailed I wrote a meinoi'andum, setting forth the time we last arrived, the day we sailed, the route I intended to take, and such othfU' information as T thought necessary for Captain Furneaux, in case he should put into tlie sound, and buried it in a bottle under the root or a tree in the garden, in such a manner as must bo found by him or any Euiopean who nn';ht put into the cove. I was resolved not to leave the coast vvitliout looking for her, where I thouglit it most likely for her to be. It was with this view tliat I stood over for Cajjo Teruwite, and afterwards ran 1773.] FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR "ADVENTURE." 265 111 along shore, from point to point, to Cape Pallisor, firing guns every half-hour ; but all to no effect. At daylight on tlie 2Gth we made sail round Cape Palliser, Bring guns as usual as we ran along the shore. In this manner we proceeded till, the wind shifting to NE., we bore away f.r Cape CauipboU on the other side of the strait, every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither be stranded on the coast nor be in any of the harbours thereof. I gave up looking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any more during the voyage, as no rendezvous was absolutely tixed upon after leaving New Zealand. On our quitting the coast, and consequently all hopes of being joined by our consort, I had the satisfaction to tind that not a man was dejected, or thought the dangers we had yet to go through were in the least increased by being alone ; but as cheerfully proceeding to the south, or wherever I might think proper to lead them, as if the Adctntiwc or even more ships had been in our company. ■'■' ' irn CHAPTER XXVI. ROUTE OF THE SHIP FROM NEW ZEALAND IN SEARCH OF A CONTINENT, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF VARIOUS OBSTRUCTIONS 5IET WITH FROM THE ICE, AND THE METHODS PURSUED TO EXPLORE THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC OCEAN— PASSAGE TO EASTER ISLAND AND TRANSACTIONS THERE— PASSA(;E FKOJI IJVSTEK ISLAND TO THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS— DEPARTURE FROM THE MARQUESAS. 1778. Nov. A' Dec. T eight o'clock in the evening of the 26th we took our departure from Cape Palliscr and steered to the south. We daily saw some rock-weeds, seals, Port Egniont hens, albatrosses, pintadocs and other petrels ; and on the 2nd of December, being in the latitude of 48° 23' S., lon- gitude 179° IG' W., we saw a number of red-billed penguins. At half an hour jiast eight o'clock on the 6th, we reckoned ourselves antipodes to our friends in London, consequently as far removed from them as possible. On Saturday the 11th the mercury in the thermometer fell to 32", consequently the weather was very cold and seemed to indicate that ice was not far off. We fell in with several large islands on the 14th, and about noon with a quantity of loose ice, through wliich we sailed. But as it blew strong, and the weather at times was exceedingly foggy, it was necessary for us to get clear of this loose ice. It was not such ice as is usually found in bays or rivers and near shore, but such as breaks off from islands ; but befoi'e we got clear of this loose ice, we had received several knocks from the larger pieces, which with all our care we could not avoid. After clearing one danger we still had another to encounter ; for many large islands lay in our way, so that we had to lufl' for one and bear up for another. These difficulties, together with the improbability of finding land farther south, and the impossibility of exploring it on account of the ice, determined me to get moi'c to the north. 1773.] SAILING SOUTH ALONE. 267 We continued to stand to the north till the 16th, when we stretched to the SE., having thick hazy weather, with snow showers, and all our rigging covered with ice. Steering south again till the 20th, wo came, the second time, within the antarctic or polar circle. The ice islands we now met with were very high and rugged, forming at their tops many peaks ; many of them were between two and three hundred feet in height, and between two and three miles in circuit, with ijerpendicular cliffs or sides astonishing to behold. The 22nd we steered ESE., with a fresh gale at north, blowing in squalls, one of which took hold of the mizzentop-sail, tore it all to rags, and rendered it for ever after useless. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 22nd, in the latitude of 67° 20', longitude 137° 12', we fell in with such a quantity of field or loo.se ice as covered the soa, and was so thick and close as wholly to obstruct our passage. The shivers were frozen so fast in the blocks that it required our utmost efforts to get a top-sail down and up, the cold so intense as hardly to be endured, with a hard gale and a thick fog. Under all these unfavourable circumstances, it was natural for me to think of returning more to the north. We spent Christmas day much in the same manner as we did the preceding one. We were fortunate in having continual daylight and clear weather, for had it been as foggy as on some of the preceding days, nothing less than a miracle could have saved us from being dashed to pieces. While we a ^re in the high latitudes, many of our people were attacked with a slight fever occasioned by colds, but it happily yielded to the simplest remedies. On the 26th we came, the third time, within the antarctic polar circle in the longitude 109' 31' W. About noon, seeing the aj^pcarance of land to the SE., we immediately trimmed our sails and stood towards it. Soon after it disappeared, and we were well assured that it was nothing but clouds or a fog bank. On the 30th, at four o'clock in the morning, we perceived the clouds to be of ar. unusual snow-white brightness, which we knew announced our approacli to field-ice. Soon after, it was seen from the topmast-head ; and at eight o'clock we were close to its edge. Ninety-seven ice liills were distinctly seen within the field, many 268 WITHIN THE ANTARCTIC CIRCLE. [1773, of them very large, and looking like ridges of mountains, rising one above another till they were lost in the clouds. The outer or northern edge of this immense field was composed of loose or broken ice close packed together, so that it was not possible for anything to enter it. This was about a mile broad, within which was solid ice in one continued compact body. It was rather low and flat, but seemed to increase in height as you traced it to the south. Such mountains of ice as these were, I believe, never seen in the Greenland seas — at least not that I ever heard or read of — so that we canncc draw a comparison between the ice here and there. It r 'it be allowed that these prodigious ice mountains must add such additional weight to the ice fields which enclose them as cannot but make a great difference between navigating this icy sea and that of Greenland. I will not say it was impossible anywhere to get farther to the south ; but the attempting it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and what, I believe, no man in my situation would have thought of. T^^ -was indeed my opinion, as well as the opinion of most on board, that this ice extended quite to the pole, or perhaps joined to some land, to which it had been fixed from the earliest time ; and that it is here — that is, to the south of this parallel — where all the ice we find scattered up and down to tho north is first formed, and afterwards broken off by gales of wind and other causes and brought to the north by the currents, which we always found to set in that direction in high latitudes. As wo drew near this ice some penguins were heard, but none seen j and but few other birds or any other thing that could induce us to think any land was near. And yet I think there must be some to the south behind this ice ; but if there is, it can afford no better retreat for birds or any other anin)al than tho ice itself, with which it must 1)0 wholly covered. I, who had ambition not only to go farther than any one had been before, 1)ut as far as it was possible for man to go, was not sorry at meeting with this interruption, as it, in some measure, relieved us — at least, shortened the dangers and hardships insep- arable from the navigation of the southern polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther to the south, no other reason need be assigned for my tacking and standing back 1773.] STOPPED BY ICE. 269 to the north, being at this time in the latitude of 71° 10' S., longitude 106° 54' W. But for me at this time to have quitted altogether this Southern Pacific Ocean, with a good ship expressly sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and not in want either of stores or of provisions, w ould have been betraying not only a want of persever- ance jut of judgment, in supposing the South Pacific Ocean to have been so well explored that nothing remained to be done in it. This, however, was not my opinion ; for although I had proved there was no continent but what must lie far to the south, there remained room for very large islands in places wliolly unexamined, and I was of opinion that my remaining in this sea some time longer would be productive of improvements in navigation and geography as well as other sciences. My intention was first to go in search of Easter Island or Davis' Land, whose situation was known with so little certainty. I next intended to get within the tropic, and then proceed to the west till we arrived at Otaheite, where it was necessary I should stop to look for the Adventure. I intended if possible to be the length of Cape Horn in November next, when we should have the best part of the summer before us to explore the southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. Great as this design appeai'ed to be, I, however, thought it possible to be executed ; and when I came to communicate it to tlie officers, I had the satisfaction to find that they all heartily concurred in it. T should not do these gentlemen justice if I did not take some opportunity to declare that they always showed the utmost readiness to carry into execution, in the most effectual manner, every measure I thought proper to take. Under such circumstances, it is hardly necessary to say that the seamen were always obedient and alert ; and on this occasion they were so far from wishing the voyage at an end, that they rejoiced at the prospect of its being prolonged another year, and of soon enjoying tlie benefits of a milder climate. As we advanced to the north, we felt a most sensible change in the weather, and the mercury in the thermometer rose to 66°. On the 25th I was taken ill of the bilious colic, which confined mo to my bed ; so that the management of the ship was left to Mr. Cooper, the first officer, who conducted her very much to my II 27© EASTER ISLAND. [1774. satisfaction. It was several days before the most dangerous symptoms of my disorder were removed, during which time Mr. Patten the surgeon was to me not only a skilful physician, but an affectionate nurse; and I should ill i rve the care he bestowed on me if I did not make this public acknowledgment. When I began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr. Forster fell a sacrifice to my tender stomach. We had no other fresh meat whatevf^r on board ; and I could oat of this flesh, as well as broth made of it, when I could taste nothing else. Thus I received nour- ishment and strength from food which would have made most people in Europe sick ; so true it is that necessity is governed by no law. We were now meeting every day with great numbers of birds, such as men-of-war, tropic and egg birds, noddies, sheerwaters, etc. ; and once we passed several pieces of sponge and a small dried leaf not unlike a bay one. We also saw plenty of fish, but were such bad fishers that we caught only four albacores, which were very acceptable, to me especially, who was just recovering from my late illness. 1774 At eight o'clock in the morning of the 11th, land was March, seen from the mast-head bearing west. I made no doubt that tliis was Davis' Land or Easter Island. On Monday the 14th we anchored, and I went ashore, accompanied by some of the gentlemen, to .see what the island was likely to aflbrd us. We landed at the sandy beach, where some hundreds of natives were assembled ; not one of them had so much as a stick or weapon of any sort in his hand. After distributing a few trinkets amongst them, we made signs for something to eat ; on which they brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes. We presently discovered they were expert thieves. It was with some difficulty we could keep the hats on our heads, but hardly possible to keep anything in our pockets, for they would watch every opportunity to snatch it from us, so that we sometimes bought the same thing two or three times over, and after all did not get it. The country appeared barren and without wood ; there were nevertheless several plantations of potatoes, plantains, and sugar- canes. We also saw some fowls, and found a well of brackish water. I resolved therefore to stty a day or two. But there can bo few WOMAN OF EASTER ISLAND. STATUES ON EASTER ISLAND. /■"V^ .-,-/. TP 1774.] INHABITANTS OF EASTER ISLAND. 271 places which offer less convenience for shipping than it docs. Here is no safe ancliorage, no wood for fuel, nor any fresh water worth taking on board. Nature has been exceedingly sparing of her favours to this spot. The inhabitants do not seem to exceed GOO or 700 souls. In colour, features, and language, they bear such atiinity to the people of the more western isles, that no one will doubt that they have the same origin. Their clothing is a piece or two of quilted cloth about six feet by four, or a mat ; but the men for the most part are almost naked. Their hair in general is black ; the women wear it long, and sometimes tied up on the crown of the head. Both men and women have very large lioles or rather slits in their ears, ex- tending to near three inches in length. Their houses are low miserable huts, constructed by setting sticks upright in the ground, at six or eight feet distance, then bending them towards each other and tying them together at the top, forming thereby a kind of Gothic arch. The whole is thatched over with leaves of sugar-cane. The doorway is in the middle of one side, formed like a porch, and so low and narrow as just to admit a man to enter on all fours. The east side of the island is full of gigantic statues, some placed in grouj)s on platforms of masonry, others single, fixed only in the earth. Having measured one that had fallen down we found it very near twenty-seven feet long and upwards of eight feet over the breast or shoulders, and yet this appeared considerably short of the size of one wo saw standing. The workmanship is rude, but not bad ; nor are the features of the face ill formed, the nose and chin in particular ; but as to the bodies there is hardly anything like a human figure about them. We could hardly conceive how these islanders, wholly unac- quainted with any mechanical power, could raise such stupendous figures, and afterwards jjlace the large cylindric stones upon their heads. They gave different names to them, such as Gotomoara, Mara- pate, Goway-too-goo, Matta Matta, etc., to which they sometimes prefix the word Moi, and sometimes annex Areekee. The latter signifies chief, and the former burying or sleeping place, as well as we could understand. ■ 272 MARQUESAS ISLANDS. [1774, 1774.1 After leaving Easter Islaml I steered NW. by N., intending to touch ut the JNIarqiiesas, if J met witii notliing before I got there. I continued to .steer to thi: west till the Gth of April, when ^^^^' in the latitude of 9° 20', longitude 1^8° 14' W., wo dis- covered an island ; two hours after we saw anoMier, and next morning a third. I was well a.ssured these were the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1.09."). The tirst isle wa.s a n(;w discovery, which I named Hood's Island, after the young gentleman who first saw it ; the second was that of 8t. Pedro, the third La Dominica, and the fourth S. Christina. We had no sooner anchored ii, the entrance of a bay of S. Christina than thirty or forty of the natives came oiF to us in ten or twelve canoes. We ob.served a heap of stones in the bow of each canoe, and every man to have a sling tied round his hand. Next morning they visited us in greater numbers, bringing with them bread-fruit, plantains, and one pig, all of which they exchanged for nails, etc. Put in this tiamc they would frequently - our goods and make no return, till at la.st I was obliged to tire a niu.,. " ^all over one man who had several times served us in this manner, after which they dealt niore fairly. But when I found tiiis island was not likely to supply us, on any conditions, with sulticicnt refreshments, such as we might expect fit the Society Isles, nor very convenient for taking in wood and wt; tor, lor for giving the sliip the necessary repairs she wanted, I resolroil forthwith to leave it and proceed to some other place wh.nc cur wants might be effectually relieved. For after havi.ig been nineteen weeks at sea, and living all the time upon salt diet, we could not but want some n^freshments ; although I must own, and that with pleasure, that on our arrival here it could hardly be said we had one sick man. We left the ^Nladre de Dios, which T named Resolution Bay, at three o'clock in the afternoon of the 12th, and steered SW. for Otaheite. On the 17th we found a hUing of low islets connected together by a reef of coral rocks. We ranged the NW. coast till we came to a creek or inlet that seemed to open a communication into the lake in the middle of the isle. This island, which is called by the natives Tiookea, was discovered and visited by Commodore Byron. T X774.] AT OTAIIEITE AG A IX. 273 On the ISth we woro down to nnotlior islo, wliich wo found to be just sueli anotlier iis we had ii.ft. Tlicsr must l)o tlio same islands to which Commodore Uyron yave the name o£ CJcorge's Tshinds. On the 19th, at seven in the morning, land was seen to tho westward, and as we drew nc^ar we saw another of these low isles ; soon after a second and a third fi])peared, and drawing near the west end we discovered a fourth. As wo ranged along the coast wo saw people, huts, canoes, and places built seemingly for the drying of fish. These four isles 1 called Palliser's Isles, in honour of my worthy friend Sir Hugh Palliser, at this time comptroller of the navy. Wo made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st, and next morning anchored in Matavai Bay. This was no sooner known to tlio natives than many of them made us a visit, and expressed n ' T. little joy at seeing us again. Our very good friends the natives supplied us with fruit and fish .sufficient for the whole crew. On the 24th Otoo the king and several other chiefs, with a train of attendants, paid us a visit and brought as presents ten or twelve large hogs, besides fruits, which made them exceedingly welcome. I was advertised of the king's coming, and looked upon it as a good omen. Knowing how much it was my interest to make this man my friend, I met him at the tents and conducted him and his f ri(!nds on board in my boat, where they stayed to dinner ; after which they were dismissed with suitable presents, and highly pleased with the reception they had met with. Next day we had much thunder, lightning, and rain. This did not hinder the king from making me another visit and a present of a large quantity of refreshments. When we were at the island of Amsterdam we had collected some red parrot feathers. When this was known here, all the principal people of both sexes en- deavoured to ingratiate themselves into our favour by bringing us hogs, fruit, and every other thing the island afforded, in order to obtain these valuable commoditit^s. Our having these feathers was a fortunate circumstance, for as they were valuab'i*' to the natives, they became so to us, more especially as my stock of trade was by this time greatly exhausted, so that if it had not been for the feathers I should liave found it difficult to have supplied the ship with tlie necessary refreshments. ym) 18 274 A DIVERSITY OF OPINION. [1774. In the morning of the 26th I went down to Oparree to pay Otoo a visit by appointment. As we drew near we observed a number of large canoes in motion, but were surprised when wo arrived to see uj)wards of three hundred ranged in order for some distance along the shore, all completely equipped and manned, besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. We landed in the midst of them and were received by a vast multitude, many of them under arms and many not. The chief, we afterwards learned, was admiral or commander of the fleet and troops present. The moment we landed I was met by a chief whose name was Tee, uncle to the king, of whom I inquired for Otoo. Presently afterwards we were niet by Towha, who received me with great courtesy. He took me by one hand and Tee by the other, and without my knowing where they intended to carry me, dragged me, as it were, through the crowd that was divided into two parties, both of which professed themselves my friends by crying out, "Tiyo no Tootee." One party wanted me to go to Otoo, and the other to remain with Towha. Coming to the usual place of audience, a mat was spread for me to sit down upon, and Tee left mo to go and bring the king. Towha was unwilling I should sit down, partly insisting on my going with him, but as I knew nothing of this chief I refused to comply. Presently Tee retui'ned and wanted to conduct me to the king, taking hold of my hand for the purpose. This Towha opjwsed, so that between the one party and the other I was like to have been torn in pieces, and was obliged to desire Tee to desist and to leave me to the admiral and his party, who conducted n»e down to the ileet. As soon as we came before the admiral's vessel, we found two lines of armed men drawn up before her to keep off the crowa, as I suppose, and to clear the way for me to go in. But as I was det' s.iVi' .AL INCIDKNTS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE SHE LAY THERE— ARRIVAL AT LLIETKA. 1774. A S the most essential repairs of the ship were nearly P ■ jTV finished, I resolved to leave Otaiieite in a few days. Oedidee, I found, was desirous of remaining at this isle, having before told him that we should not return. I now mentioned to him that he was at liberty to remain here, or to quit us at Ulietea, or to go with us to England ; frankly owning that if he chose the latter, it was very probable he would never return to his country, in which case I would take care of him, and he must afterwards look upon me as his father. He threw his arms aViout me r rid wept much, saying many people persuaded him to remain a* Or;(iieite. He was well beloved in the shiji, so that every one w,>:- f>rrt.i! Jing him to go with us, telling him what great things lit Wi !il .''t. in England, and the immense riches he would return witii i»ut I thought proper to undeceive him, as knowing the only induo>>i .at to his going was the expectation of returning, and I could .see no prospect of an opportunity of that kind happening. I ^^aought it an act of the highest injustice to take a person fror.i tliese isles under any promise which was not in my power to perform. Next morning, early, Oedidee came on board with a resolution to stay at the island, but Mr. Forster prevailed upon hitn to go with us to Ulietea. On the 1 Ith of INIay we went with Ous ' > ■ no of hia dockyards where the canoes were building, ca li of which was 108 feet long. They were ilmost ready to launch, and were intended to make one j'^i'.t doublt.- canoe. The king begged of me a grappling and rope, to .vh' ,!< i added an English jack and pendant, and desired ihe ca^ot- might bo called Jln'tamiia. This May. 1774.] EIGHT MONTHS' PROGRESS. 277 he very readily agreed to, and she was named accordingly. After this he gave me a hog and a turtle of about sixty pounds weight, likewise a large shark they had poisoned in a creek ; but the fine pork and fish we liad got at this isle had spoiled our palates for such food. The king and his prime minister Tee accompanied us on board to dinner, and after it was over took a most affectionate farewell. He hardly ever ceased soliciting me this day to return to Otaheite. Our treatment at this isle was such as had induced one of our gunner's mates to form a plan to remain at it. He took the oppor- tunity as soon as we were out, the boats in and sails set, to slip overboard, being a good swimmer. But he was discovered before he got clear of the ship, and we presently hoisted a boat out and took him up. When I considered this man's situation in life I did not think him so culpable, nor the resolution he had taken of staying here so extraordinary, as it may at first appear. He was an Irishman by birtli, and had sailed in the Dutch service. I picked him up at Batavia, and he had been with me ever since. I never learned that he had either friends or connections to confine him to any particular part of the world. Where, then, could such a man be more happy than at one of these isles, where, in one of the finest climates in the world, he could enjoy not only the neces- saries but the luxuries of life in ease and plenty ? I know not if he might not have obtained my consent if he had applied for it in proper time. As soon as we had got him on board I steered for lluahcine, in order to pay a visit to our friends there. But before we leave Otaheite it will bo necessary to give some account of the present state of that island, especially as it differs very much from what it was eiglit months before. There were improvements in every part into which we came. It seemed to us almost incredible that so many large canoes and houses could be built in so short a space as eight months. The iron tools which they had got from the English had, no doubt, greatly accelerated the work. When I was last iiere I conceived but an unfavourable opinion of Otoo's talents. Tlio improvements since made in the i.sland convinced me of my mistake, and that he must be a man of good parts. lUit notwithstanding his kingly establisliment, there was very little about Otoo's person or court by which a stranger 278 HUAHBINE AGAIN. [1774, Ih \: 1^1 could distinguish the king from the subject. He seemed to avoid all necessary pomp. All have free access to him, and speak to him wherever they see him without the least ceremony, such is the easy freedom which every individual of this happy inle enjoys. I have occasionally mentioned the extraordinary fondness the people of Otaheite showed for red feathers. These they call oona, and they are as valuable here as jewels in Europe. These feathers they make up in little bunches and tix them to the end of a cord about three or four inches long, wh' h is made of the strong outside fibres of the cocoa-nut, twisted so hard that it is like a wire and serves as a handle to the bunch. Thus prepared they are used as symbols of the Eatuas or divinities in all their religious ceremonies. I have often seen them hold one of these bunches and say a prayer, not one word of which could I ever understand. Whoever comes to this island will do well to provide himself with red feathers ; he must also have a good stock of axes and hatchets, etc. The two goats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when we were last here seemed to promise fair for answering the end for which they were put on shore. Tlie people seemed to bo very fond of them, and they were in excellent condition. Tk" sheep which we left died soon after, excepting one, which we understood was yet alive. We have also furnished them with a stock of cats, no less than twenty having been given away at this isle, besides what were left at Ulietea and Huaheine. At one o'clock on the loth of May we anchored in the entrance of Owharre Harbour in the island of Huaheine. Several of the natives soon made us a visit, amongst whom was old Oree the chief, who brought us a hog and other articles, which he presented to me with the usual ceremony. When I returned Oreo's visit next morning and made my present to him, one article was red feathers. Two or three of these the chief took in his right hand, holding them up between his finger and thumb, and said a prayer, as I understood. On the 18th, Oreo came on board with a present of fruit, stayed dinner, and desired to sec some great guns fired, which I complied with. The reason of his making this request was his hearing from Oedidee that we had so done at Otaheite. Early on the morning of the 20th three of the othcers set out {> 1774.] OR HE'S DEVOTION. 279 oil a shooting party, rather contrary to my inclination, as I found the natives wore continually watching every opportunity to rob straggling parties, and were daily growir.g more daring. About three o'clock in the afternoon I got intelligence that they were seized and stripped of everything they had about them. Upon this I immediately went on shore with a boat's crew, and took possession of a large house with all its effects and two chiefs whom I found in it. In this situation I remained till I heard the officers had got back safe and had all their things restored to them. I learned from Ocdideo in the evening that Oree was so nmch concerned at what had happened that he wept. On the 23r(l, eai-ly in the morning, we unmoored, and at eight weighed and put to sea. The good old chief was the last man who Avent out of the ship. At parting I told him we should see each other no more, at which he wept and sais, and at one time great stones were seen high in the air. There were three places up the 288 VOLCANIC EXPLOSIONS, [1774. hill from whence smoke of a sulphurous stnell issued through cracks or fissures in the earth. The ground about these was exceedingly hot and parched or ))urned, and they seemed to keep pace with the volcano, for at every explosion of the latter tlie quantity of smoke or steam in tliese was greatly increased, and ''orced out so as to rise in small columns, which we saw from the ship, and had taken for common fires made by the natives. ! - ■74, \e le CHAPTER XXTX. DEPARTURE FROM TANNA— SOME ACCOUNT OF ITS INHABITANTS— DISCOVERY OP NEW CALEDONIA, AND INCIDKKTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN BALADE— THE ISLE OF PINES— DEPARTURE FOR NEW ZEALAND. DURING the night of the 20tli the wind had veered "74. round to SE. As this was favourable for getting ^^° " out of the harbour, at four o'clock in the morning we began to unmoor and put to sea. The produce of this island is bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, a fruit like a nectarine, yams, a sort of potato, sugar-cane, wild figs. The bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains are neither so plentiful nor so good as at Otaheite. On the other hand, sugar- canes and yams are not only in greater plenty, but of superior quality and much larger. Hogs did not seem to be scarce, but we saw not many ibwlb. These are the only domestic animals they have. At first we thought the people of this island were a race b(it\veen the natives of the Friendly Islands and those of Malli- coUo, but they had little or no affinity to either. Their hair grows to a tolerable ' igth, and is very crisp and curly. They separate it into small ' ks, which they cue round with the rind of a slender plant down .o about an inch of the ends. Each of these cues is somewhat thicker than common whip-cord, and they look like a parcel of small strings hanging down from the crown of their heads. Both se.xcs are of a very dark colour, but not black. Thoy make thenjselves blacker than they really are by painting their faces with a pigment of the colour of blacklead. They also use another sort which is red, and a third sort brown. All these thoy lay on with a liberal hand, not only on the face, but on the neck, shoulders, and breast. (m) I'J 290 THE NEW HEBRIDES. [1774. ,15 Pi: pr We now stretched to the eastward to make a survey of this whole archipelago. The northern islands were discovered by that great navigator Quiros in 160G, and were considered as part of the southern continent which at that time and until very lately was supposed to exist. They were next visited by INI. de Bougain- ville in 17G8, who called the islands the Great Cyclades. But as we added to them several new ones which were not known before, and explored the whole, I think we have obtained a right to name them, and shall in future distinguish them by the name of the New Hebrides. The next island, which lies farthest north, is that of Tierra del Espiritu Santo. It is the most western and largest of all the Hebrides. The next considerable island is that of MallicoUo. To judge of this island from what we saw of it, it must be very fertile and well inhabited, St. Bartholomew lies between the SE. end of Tierra del Espiritu Santo and the N. end of MallicoUo. The Isle of Lepers lies between Espiritu Santo and Aurora Island. Aurora, Whitsuntide, Ambrym, Paoom and its neighbour Apco, Tln-eehills and Sandwich Islands, lie all nearly under the meridian of 167° 30' E. Having now finished the survey of the whole archipelago, the season of the year made it necessary for me to return to the south while I had yet some time left to explore any land I miglit ineet with between this and New Zealand, where I intended to touch, that I might refresh my people and recruit our stock of wood and water for another southern course. No more land was seen till eight o'clock on the 4th, "when land was discovereil bearing SSW'., for which we steered. We had hardly got to an anchor before we were sur- rounded by a great number of the natives in sixteen or eighteen canoes, the most of whom were without any sort of weapons. At first they were siiy of coming near the ship, but in a short time we prevailed on tlu; people in one boat to get close enough to receive some presents. These we lowered down to them by a rope, to Avhich in return they tied two fish that stunk intolerably. These mutual exchanges bringing on a kind of confidence, two ventured on ijoaid the ship, and presently after she was filled with them, and we had the company of several at dinner in the cabin. September. 1 his bat of ely liii- ^VZ \ni\iffffnn^p sS^^"-"-- Tie rra del ,, o?»*°° EspiriiuSanttf XT' «roP^ VO'^ , W'^'^ (rC I ntVt ThntSUltl^ * .^^Sandvjch I. St)rnango «^' 27' (l^rai^ ^jt^ooh'sSaif Tan h a \Vi.>&*,„^. fj VmratnMtv Anetoum .^"^ 5^ r^ J)* It; Nengone Jo"-" , ' ^^arrovl. fc/"' (J» t4le ofi£ines WaJpolfl. s \0-' aqo Jfl|fl' l.omlilurated at this place occasioned my giving it the name of Christmas Sound. The refresliments to be got here are precarious, as they con- sist chiefly of wild fowl, and may probably never bo found in such plenty as to su))p!y the crew of a ship ; and fisii, so far as wo can judge, are scarce. The wild fowl are geese, ducks, sea-pies, shags, and that kind of gull known as Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, called by our people racehorses, on account of tlie great swiftness witli which tliey run on the water; for they 302 ROUNDING CAPE HORN. [1774. \ cannot fly, the wings being too short to support the body in the air. From the knowledge which the inhabitants seem to have of Europeans?, we may supi'iose that they do not live here continually, but retire to the north during the winter. I have often wondered that these people do not clothe themselves better, since nature has certainly provided materials. They might line their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquatic birds ; they might make their cloaks larger, and employ the same skins for other parts of clothing. In short, of all the nations I have seen, these Pecheras are the most wretched. Tliey are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in the world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such conveniences as may render life in some measure more comfortable. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 28tli, we weighed and stood out to sea, with a light breeze at NW. At half-past seven next day we passed the famous Cape Horn and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the very same point of land I took for the cape, when I passed it in 1769, which at that time I was doubt- ful of. It is the most southern extremity on a group of islands of unequal extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the name of Hermite Islands. From Cape Horn we steered NE. for Strait Le Maire, with a view of looking into Success Bay, to see if there were any traces of the Adventtire having been there. I had inscribed our ship's name on a card, which we nailed to a tree at the place where the Endeavour watered. This was done with a view of giving Captain Furneaux some information in case he should bo behind us ami put in here. Next morning we bore up for the east end of Staten Land. The land was obscured in a thick haze, and we were obliged to make way, as it were, in the dark ; for it was but now and then we got a sight of the coast. In hauling round the east end of one of tho islands we saw an abundance of seals and birda This was a temptation too great for people in our situation to withstand, to whom fresh provisions of any kind were acceptable, and determined me to anchor in order that we might taste of what we now only saw at a distance. After dinner we hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large party of men ; 1776.] LEAVING NEW- YEAR'S HARBOUR. 303 some to kill seals, others to catch birds, fish, or what came in our way. To find the former, it mattered not where we landed ; for the wliole shore was covered with them, and by the noise they luade, one would have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. On landing, we found they were a different animal from seals, but in shape and motion exactly resembling them. We called them lions, on account of the great resemblance the male has to that beast. Here were also the same kind of seals which we found in New Zealand, generally known by the name of sea-beai-3 — at least we gave them that name. They were in general so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer us to come near enough to knock them down with sticks ; but the lai-ge ones we shot, not thinking it safe to approach them. We also found on the islands abundance of penguins and shags; here were geese and ducks, but not niany. In the evening wo rctturned on board, our boats well laden with one thing or other. Next day being January 1, 1775, finding that noth- 1775. ing was wanting but a good harbour to make this a tolerable January, place for ships to refresh at, I sent Mr. Gilbert over to Staten Land in the cutter to look for one. Appearances promised success in a place opposite the ship. About ten o'clock, Mr. Gilbert returned from Staten Land, where he found a good port, situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St. John, It may bo known by some small islands lying in the entrance. The harbour is nearly two miles in length ; in some places near a mile broad. Its shores are covered with wood fit for fuel, and in it are several streams of fresh water. The day on which this port was dis- covered occasioned my calling it New- Year's Harbour. On the 3rd we weighed, with a fresh gale, and stood for Cape St. John. Tliis cape, being the eastern point of Staten Land, a description of it is unnecessary. In sailitig round the cape, wo met with a very str'^ng current from the south. It made a race which looked like breakers, and it was as much as wo could do, with a strong gale, to make head against it. After getting round the cape, 1 hauled up along the south coast till eight o'clock on the 3rd, and steered SE., with a resolu- tion to leave the land, judging it to be sufficiently exj^lored to answer the most general purposes of navigation and geography. CHAPTER XXXI. DISCOVERT OF THE ISLE OF GEORGIA— PROCEKDINOS AFTER LEAVING THE ISLE OP GEORGIA, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OK SANDWICH L<\NI) ; WITH SOME REASONS FOR THERE BEING LAND ABOUT THE SOUTH POLE— AN AC- COUNT OF OUR PROCEEDINGS TILL OUR ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. ITiS. Januiuy. w E stood to the south till the 13th, when we saw several penguins and a snow petrel, which wo looked on to be signs of the vicinity of ice. The air, too, was mucl'. colder than we had felt it since we left New Zealand. At eight o'clock the next morning we saw an island of ice, as we then thought, but at noon we were doubtful whether it was ice or land. It was wholly covered with snow. It proved to be an island, which obtained the name of Willis's Island, after the person who first saw it. At this time we had a great swell from the south, an indication that no land was ear us in that direction ; nevertheless the vast quantity of snow on that in sight induced us to think it was extensive, and I chose to begin with exploring the northern coast. With this view we bore up for Willis's Island, all sails set, having a fine gale at SSW. As we advanced to the north, we perceived another isle lying east of Willis's, and between it and the main. Seeing there was a clear passage between the two isles we steered for it. Willis's Isle is a high rock of no great extent ; the other isle, ■which obtained the name of Bird Isle, on account of the vast number of birds that were upon it, is not so high, but of greater extent, and is close to the NE. point of the mainland, which I called Cape North. After getting tlirough the passage, we found the north coast trended K by N. for about nine miles, and then E. to Cape Buller. 177B.] AMID ICE AND SNOW. 305 We now steered along sihore at the distance of four or live miles, when, seeing the appearance of an inlet, we hauled in for it. As soon as we drew near the shore, having hoisi.ed out a boat, I embarked in it, with a view to reconnoitring the bay before we ventured in with the ship. But as I came to a resolution not to bring the ship in, I did not think it worth my while to go and examine these places ; for it did not seem probable that any one would ever be benefited by the discovery. I landed in three different places, displayed our colours, and took possession of the country in His Majesty's name, under a discharge of small arms. The head of the bay, as well as two places on each side, was terminated by perpendicular ice-cliffs of considerable height. The inner parts of the country were not less savage and horrible. The wild rocks raised their lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be seen, nor a shrub even big enough to make a toothpick. All the land birds we saw consisted of a few small larks, nor did we meet with any quadrupeds. Having made the above observations, we set out for the ship and got aboard n. little after twelve o'clock with a quantity of seals and penguins, an acceptable present to the crew. It must not, however, be understood that we were in want of provisions. We had yet plenty of every kind, and since we had been on this coast, I had ordered, in addition to the common allowance, wheat to be boiled every morning for breakfast; but any kind of fresh meat was preferred by most on board to salt For my own part, I was now for the first time heartily tired of salt meat of every kind, and though the flesh of the penguins could scarcely vie with bullock's liver, its being fresh was sufficient to make it go down. I called the bay we had been in Possession Bay, and a pretty large bay beyond, Cumberland Bay. We now Iiauled off the coast, from which we were distant about four miles. Thp nearest land to us, being a projecting point which terminated in a round hillock, was, on account of the day, named Cape Charlotte. On the west side of Cape Charlotte lies a bay which obtained the name of Royal Bay, and the west point of it was named Cape George. An isle lying distant eight leagues from (661) 20 3o6 ISLE OF GEORGIA DISCOVERED. [1778. Cape Cliarlotte was called Cooper's Isle, after my first lieutenant. The coast between them forms a largo bay, to which I gave the name of Sandwich Bay. . At sunrise on tho 19th, a new land was seen ; its first appear- ance ill a single hill like a sugar-loaf. Some time after other detached pieces appeared above tho horizon near the hill. In the afternoon we had a prospect of a ridge of mountains l)ehind Sandwich Bay, whose lofty and icy summits were elevated liigh above tho clouds. This proved to be an island quite detached from the main, and obtained the name of Pickcrsgill Island, after my third ofiicer. It was no more than seventy leagues in circuit. Who would have thought that an island of no greater extent than this, situated between tho latitude of 54' and 55", should, in the very height of summer, bo in a manner wholly covered, many fathoms deep, with frozen snow ? Tho very sides and craggy summits of tho lofty mountains were cased with snow and ice ; but tho quantity which Lay in the valleys ia incredible, and at the bottom of tho bays the coast was terminated by a wall of ic(! of considerable height. It can hardly !>«• doubted that a great deal of ice is formed here in tho winter, which, in the spring, is broken oiF and dispersed over the sea ; but the island cannot produce the ten- thousandth part of what wo saw ; so that either there must be more land or the ice is formcid without it. I called this land the Isle of Georgia, in honour of His Majesty. It is remarkable that we did not see a river or stream of fresh water on the whole coast. I think it highly jirobable there are no perennial springs in tho country, and that the interior parts never enjoy heat enough to melt tho snow in such quantities as to produce a riv(!r or stream of water. On tho 25th wo steered ESK, with a fresh galo at KNE., attended with foggy weather. I now reckoned wo were in lat. 00° S., and farther I did not intend to go, unless I oltserved certain signs of soon meeting with land J for it would not have been prudent in mo to have spent my time in penetrating to the south, when it was at least as prob- able that a large tract of land might bo found near Cape Circum- cision. Besides, I wa.^ tired of these high southern latitudes, where nothing was to be found but ico and thick fogs. 1778.1 SO UTHERX ril I L E. 307 At seven o'clock in the evening, the fog receding from us a little gave us a sight of an ice island, several jienguins, and some snow petrels. Wo continu(;d to stand to tiie east till lialf-pnst two o'clock p.m., when we fell in, all nt once, with a vast number of largo ice islands and a sea strewed with loose ice. The ice- islands which at this time surrounded us were nearly all of equal height, and showed a flat, even surface ; but they were of various extent, some being two or three miles in circuit. At half an hour past six in the morning of tho 31st wo dis- covered land ahead ; this proved to be three rocky islets of con- siderable height. The outermost terminated in a lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, and obtained tho name of Freezeland Rock, after the man who first discovered it. Behind this rock appeared an elevated coast, whose lofty, snow-clad summits were seen above the cloud.s. It extended N. by E., and I called it Cape Bristol in honour of tho noble family of Ilervey. At the same time another elevated coast appean^d in sight. I called this land Southern Thule, because it is tho most southern land that lias ever yet been discovered. It shows a surface of vast lieight, and is everywhere covered with snow. Some thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol. It is more than probable chat the.so two lands are connected, and that this space is a deep bay wliicii T calli'd Forster's Bay. At one o'clock, finding that we could not weather Thule, we tacked and stood to the north. Soon after it fell little wind, and wo were left to the mercy of a great westerly swell, which set right upon the .shore. The weather clearing up, we saw Cape Bristol terminating in a point to tho north, beyond which we could see no land. This discovery relieved us from the fear of being carried by the swell on the most horrible coast in the world. On tho Ist we got signs of a now coa.st. It proved a high promontory, which I named Capo Montagu, seven or eiglit leagues to tho north of Cape Bristol. We saAv land from space to space between them, wliich made me conclude that the whole was connected. I was sorry I could not determine this with greater certainty ; but prudenco would not permit mo to venture near a coast subject to thick fogs, on which there was no anchorage, where every port was bhxjketl or lilh'd up with ice, and February. 7=r 308 INTEXSE COLD. [177B. the whole country covered many fathoms tliick with everlasting snow. Continuing to steer to the north all night, at six o'clock next morning a new land was seen. It appeared in two hummocks just pee})ing above the horizon ; but the weather was now become very hazy, which made it unsafe to stand for the shore. Thus wo were obliged to leave it on the supposition of its being an island, which I named Saunders, after my honourable friend Sir Charles. On the 3rd we found two isles, and the day on which they were discovered was the occasion of calling them Candlemas Isles. We continued to steer to the south. Seeing neither land nor signs of any, I concluded that what we had seen, which I named Sandwich Ijind, was either a group of islands or else a point of the continent ; for I firmly believe that there is a track of land near the Polo which is the source of most of the ice that is spread over this vast southern ocean. It is true, however, that the greatest part of this southern continent mnst be within the polar circle, where the sea is so jiestered with ice that the land is thereby inaccessible. The risk one runs in exploring a coast in these unknown and icy seas is so very great that I can be bold enough to say that no man will ever venture farther than I have done, and that the lands which may lie to the south will never bo ex- plored. Thick snows, snow-storms, intense cold, and every other thing that can render navigation dangerous, must be encountered ; and these difficulties are greatly heightened by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the country — a country doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of the sun's rays, but to lie buried in everlasting snow and ice. The ports which may be on tlie coast are, in a manner, wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast thickness ; but if any should be so far open as to invite a ship into it, she would run a risk of being fixed there for ever, or coming out in an ice island. The islands and floes on the coast, the great falls from the ice cliffs in the port, or a heavy snow-storm attended with a sharp frost, would be equally fatal. After such an explanation as this, the reader must not expect to find me mnch farther to the south. These reasons induced me to alter the course to east, with a very strong gale at north attended with an (ixccedingly heavy fall I i 1778.] NO SIGNS OF A SOUTHERN CONTINENT. 309 of snow. The (juantity which lodged in our sails was so great, that ■we were fro(iuently obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shako it out of them, otlicrwise neither they nor the ship ccjuld have supported the we-igKt. On the 18th we were in the latitude 54° 25'. I thought this a good latitude to keep in to look for Cape Circumcision ; because, if the land had rver so little extent in the direction of north and south, we could not miss seeing it, as the northern point is said to lie in 54°. We had yet a groat swell from the south, so that I ■was now well assured it could only be an island. By the L'2nd we had run down 13° of longitude, in the very latitude assigned for Bouvct's Land. I was therefore well assured that what he had seen could be nothing but an island of ice ; for if it had been land it is liardly possible we could have missed it, though it were ever so smnM. As we were now no more than two degrees of longitude from our route to the south when we left tin- Cape of (^ood Hope, it was to no purpose to proceed any fartli r to the east under this parallel, knowing that no land could be there. But an opportunity now offering of clearing up some doubts of our having seen land farther to the .south, I steered to the 8E. I had now made the circuit of the southern ocean in a high latitud*'. and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the Pole and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visit- ing the tropical sea I had not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but niad*^ there many now ones, and left very little more to be done even in that part. Thus I flatter myself that the intention of the voyage has in every ri'Spect been fully answered ; the southern hemisphere sufficiently e.xploi'ed ; and a final end [)ut to the searching after a southern continent, which has at times engrossed the attention of some of the maritime powers for near two centuries past, and been a favourite theory amongst the geographers of all ages. That there may be a continent near the Pole I will not deny ; on the contrary, I am of opinion there is, and that we have seen part of it. If any one should have resolution and pei-severance to clear up this point by proceeding farther than I have done, I shall ir 310 .V TKEIilXG NOR 77/. [1778. ■ ! ■it not envy Iiiin the honour of tho iliHcovery, but I will be bold to »jay that the world will not bo benefitt'd by it. Our uailu and ri<,'ging wore now so much worn that something was f^iving way every hour, and we had nothing left either to repair or to rejilaco them. Our proviiiions wero in a state of decay, and consequently aU'orded little nuurislinient, and we had been a long time without refvi^shments. My people, indeed, wero yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever I liad tiiought proper to load thtm ; but I dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them at a time when we had nothing h-ft to remove it. [ must say further that it would have been cruel in mo to have continued the faiigueu and hardships thi^y were continually o.\posed to longer than was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour through- out tho whole voyage merited every indulgence which it was in my power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the oHicers, tliey showed themselves capable of surmounting every diHiculty and danger which came in their way, and never once looked either upon the ono or the other as being at all heightened by our separa- tion from our consort, the Ailt'itUurc. All tlieso consitlerations induced me to steer for tho Cape of (jlood Hope. I now, in pursuance of my instructions, demanded of the otHcers and p«;tty officers the logbooks and journals they had kept, which were delivered to mo accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the; Admiralty. T also enjoined them and the whole crew not to divulge where we had been till they had their lordships' ])ermi.ssion so to do. At daybreak on the 16th we saw two sail standing to the westward, and one of thorn showing Dutch colours. Having little or no wind we hoisted out a boat, and sent on board one of the two ships before mentioned, which wero about two leagues from us ; but we were too impatient after news to regard the distance. Our ))eople were told by some English seamen on board this ship that the AJcenture had arrived at the Capo of fJood Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew of one of her boats hud l>een murdered and eatvn by the people of New Zealand ; so that tho story we heard in Queen Ciiarlotte's 8ouud was now no Ioj)g«'r a mystery. On the 19th we had light airs next to a calm till next morning, [1115. )ol(l to 1776.J A/: lis or HIK AIHEXTLRE, 3" whm a l)rt'(*7,e sjiruiig up at west, and tin.' Ilnylish ship, wliicli was to windwacd, horc down to us, .Slin i»rov«'d to be tho Trnt liriton, Captain IJroudly, from Cliina. As \h\ did not intend to touch at tho Capo, 1 put a letter on board him for tho wcrotary of the Admiralty. Tiio account which we had htard of tho Adcentnir. was now conlirmcd to uh by tliis sl)i[». \\\: also <,'ot from on board lnr a jiarcol of old nciwapapcrs, which were new to us, and <;avi; us huuie amusement ; but these were tho least favours we receiveil from Captain iJroadly. With a f,'onerosity peculiar to the com- manders of the India Company's ships, he sent us fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which wen; very acceptable, and deserve from me this public acknowled;,'ment. In the afternoon we parted company. Tho True, liriton stood out to sea and we in for the land, having a very fresh gale at west, which split our fore-topsail ill Buch a manner that wo were oldiged to Ijrjjig another to tho yaril. The next morning, being with us Wednesilay the 22nd, but with tho people hero Tuesday the 21st, we anchored in Table Bay. liefore we had got well to an anchor 1 despatched an otlicer to acquaint the governor with our airival, and to request the neces- Ha'-_) stores and refreshments, which were readily granted. As soon as the ollicer came back we saluted tho garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was immediately n^turnetl with an equal nund>er. I now learned that tho Adanitiirfi had called here on her return, and 1 found a letter from Captain Furncaux acquainting mo with the loss of his boat, and of ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The captain afterwards, on my arrival in Eiigland, put into my hands a complete narrative of his proceed- ings from the time of our second and final se})aration, which T now lay before the public in the following chapter. r=7f I! CHAPTER XXXII. CAPTAIN KUHNKAUX'H NAHKATIVE OF HIS i'mK'EEDINOH IN THE " ADVENTUIlEi" INCLUDING LIKLTKNANT UIKNEY's UKl'OUT CONCKKNINO TUF BOAT'm CKKW WHO WKBK MUUDEHEI) BY THE INHABITANTS OF yiKKN CHAKLOTTE'h HOUND. 1773. October, AFTER a pasbago of fourtct'u days from AnisttTilam, wo niiwhi tlio coast of New Zealand near fiio 1 ahlo Capp, and stood along shore till wo came as far as Cape Turnaj^ain. The wind then began to blow strong at west, with heavy scjuallo 'vnd rain, which split many of our sails, und blew us off the coast for three days ; in which time we parted company with the Jiesolu- lion, and never saw lier afterward.s. On the '1th of November W3 again got inshore near Cap'j Pullisi-r, and were visited by a number of the natives in .lieir canoes, bringing a great quantity of crayfish, whicli we bought of them for nails and Otaheite cloih. The next day it blew hard from WNW., which again drove us off the coast, and obliged us to bring to for two days, during which time it l)lew one continual galo of wind, with heavy falls of sleet. By this time our decks wero very leaky, our beds and I>etlding wot, antting the sliip ready for sea as fast as i)ossible, erected our tents, sent the cooper on shore to repair the cask.s, and U-gan to un.stow the hold to get at the bread that was in l)utt« ; but on opening thc.i tVunui a great quantity of it entirely spoiled, and most part so damaged that wo wert( obliged to fix our i.ipp«'r oven on shore to bake it over again, which und('ul)tedly delayed us a ciinsiderabie time. Whilst we lay here, the inhabitants canu> on board as Ix'fore, supplying us with fish and other things, wliich we bought of them for noils, etc., and appeared very friendly, though twice in the 314 MR. BURNEV'S REPORT. [1778. middle of the night they cuine to tl»f to'l with an intention to steal, but wero Uiacovercd before they could get anytliin^ into their possesbion. On the ITili of Doci-mber, havinj^ iftittwl the ship, completed our wood and water, and got e\ery thing ready for wa, we sent our large cutter, with Mr. Howe, a niidHhipnian, and the boat's crew, to gather wild greens for the ship's company, with orders to return tliat evening, as I intended to .sail the next ino liiig. JJut on the boat's not returning the same evening nor the next morn- ing, being under great uneasiness about her, I lioisted out the launcli, and sent her, with the second lieutenant, ]Mi-. Journey, manned with the boat's crew and ten marin . , c. search of her. My ders to Mr. Jiurney wout tho Itoat, but they pretended ignnmnee. They appeavt^d very friendly here, and sold us some tisli. Wit'i'n an hour after we left this place, ou a small beach adjoining Grass Cove, we saw a very lai .(e double canoe just hauled up, with two men and a dog. Tim men, on sc-eing us, left their canoe and ran up i!it<> tho wood>. This «jfiive me reason lo suspect I should here get tidings of ihe eutui. Wo went ashore, searched tho canoe, uid fouJid ono of the rowlock-ports of the cutter and some shoes, one of which was known to luiong to Mr. W'oodhouse, ono of our midshipmen. One of the people at the same time brought mo a jiioec of meat, which he took to ln' some of thr salt meat lielonging to tho cutter's rri'w. On examining this, and smellin;; it, 1 found it to b«i fresh. Mr. tannin (the master), who was with me, sup|M)se(l it was dog's llesh, and I was of tho same opinion, fo»- I still ;ij ef • MS „^4 s't 316 CA.\NIB/iUSM. [1773. doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon convinced by the most horrid and undeidable proof. " A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beacli tied up, wo cut them open. So'ne M-ei-e full of roasted flesh, and some of fern root, which scarves them for bread. On further (-earch wer(^ found Viiore shoes and a hand, which we innnediately knew to have belongtnl to Thomas Hill, one of our forecastle-men, it being marked " T. H." with an Otaheitean tattoo instrument. J went with some of the people a little way into the woods, Itut saw nothing else. Coming down again there was a round spot covered with fresh earth about four feet in diameter, whore .•jomething had been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass, and in the meantime I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her ; but seeing f\ great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into the boat, and madi- all the haste 1 could to be with th(>m before sunset. " On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes and a great many people- on the breach, who, on our approach, retreated to a small hill ;i)out a ship's length from the waterside, where they stocul talking to us. A large tire was on the top of the liigh land beyond the woods, whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. The savages on the iiill still kept hallooing and making signs for us to land. However, as soon us wt- got close in we all tired. The first volley did not. seem to aft'ect them muc"i, but on the second they l)egan to scramble away as fast as they could, some of tin ni li ' .g. We continued firing as long as we could see the giimphH of any of them through the bushes. Among tlui Indians were two very stout men, who ne\(r ollered to move till they found themselves forsaken by their companions, and then ms^trched away with great composure and deliberation, their pride not suHering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there or crawled on all fours. The; other got clear, without any apparent hurt. T then landetl with the marines, ai'.d .Mr. Fannin stayed to goard the boat. " On the beach Av«>re two bunfll<'s of celery which had been gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes, a prtwU' I ^ L1773. ;f.(l by beach sh, ami ■nt. I lut saw covered 1773. GUASTI. y SCKSFS. 317 that tlio attack had been made here. I then seirched all along at the back of tho b(?acii to s(!e if the cutter was tlu ve. We found no i)oat, but instead of her we saw sucli a ^shoekillg m' 110 of i/irnage and barbarity as never can be mentioned or thought of but with horror ; for tlie heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people were seen lying on the beach, and at a little distance the dogs gnawing their entrails. " Whilst we remained almost stupefied on tho spot, Mr. Fannin called to us that ho heard tho savages gathering together in tho woods ; on which I returned to the boat, and, hauling alongside the canoe.s, we demolished three of them. W^hile this was trans- acting the fire on tlio top of the hill disappeai-ed, and we could hear the Indians in the woods at high wonls — I suj)pose quar- relling whether they should attack us and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark. I therefore just stepped ovt and looked once more behind the beach to sen if tli(' cutter had been hauled u{) in the bushes ; but, seeing lothing of her, returned and put oil'. Our whole force would have been barely snlHcient to ha\'e gone up the hill, and to have ventured with half (for half must have lietMi left to guard the boat) would have been fool hardiness. A.s we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large tire abmit three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of the hill down almost to tho waterside, the middle space being enolosetl all round by the fire like a hedge. I con- sulted with Mr. Fannin, and we wore both of opinion that we could e.vpect to n-ap im other advantage than tin; poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. " At leaving (ira.ss Covo wo hail tired a S'eneral volley towards where we heard tho Indians talking ; but by going in and out of the boat the arms h;id got wet, and four pices missed fire. What was still worse, it began to rain, our annnunition was more than half expemltxl, and we left six large canoes behind us in one place. With 80 many disadvantages, T did not think it worth while to proceed, whore nothing could be hoped for but revenge. " Coming between two round ishuuls situated to the southward of Kast Bay, wc^ imagined we heard r.omeb,Kly cjilling. We Iny on our oars and listened, but heard no more of it. ^^ <• hallooed several times, but to little purpose the jX)or souls were far enowgk 318 TEX OF CREW KILLED. [m». out of hearing; anfl, indeed, I think it nome comfort to rcflt'ct that, in nil probability, cvory man of tiicm must bavo boon kilknl on tho spot." Thus far Mr. Burnoy's roport ; and to comploto tho account of this tragical tronsaciion, it may not b»» tinin-crssary to mention that tho poople in tho cutttT worn : Mr. Kowc Mr. VVoodhouso; Francis Murpliy, quart<.'rnia.sttM- ; Williuin Facoy, Thomas Hill, Michael hell, and Edward JoueR, foriH-astlf-mon ; .John ("avrnaugh and Thomas Millor, bcloiming to tho ofttTgimrd ; and JanirB Ravilly, tho captain's man — boing ten in all. Most of theso wore the Ailmifurr'n very best seanion, tlio stoutosi and most healthy men in tho ship. Mr. Burnoy's party brought on board two hands, one belonging to Mr. Fowo, known by a hurt ho had received on it, and tho other to Thoirias HiP, as befnro mentioned; also tho head of the captain's sorvnnt. These, with moro of the remains, wore tied in a liammock and tlirown overboard, with balla.st and shot sufficient to sink it. None of their annH or clothes were found, except part of a pair of trous(>rH and six shoos, nvhioh was decided on tho fpot, or tho fairness of tho opportunity inight tempt them, our people lioing -^o incautious and thinking tliom- Holves too secure. Another thing which enc*»e»i with Mr. lb)Wo in the .-utter. We were detained in the sound by contrary winds four days after this melancholy afThir hnpfiejie*!, durintj which time wo saw none of the inlitibUaittH. What is very remarkable, T hail boon T 1773.] RETURN HOME OE THE ''ADVEXTUREr 319 several times up in the same covo with Captain Cook, and never saw the least sign of an inhabitant, except some deserted towns which appeared as if tiiey had not been occupied for several years; and yet when iMr. llurney entered the cove he was of opinion there could not bo less than fifteen hundred or two thousand people. I doubt not, had they been apprised of his coming, they would have attacked him. From these considera- tions I thought it imprudent to send a boat up again, as wo wore convinced there was not tho least probability of any of our people being alive. On the 2.'5rd we weighed and i«uul(! sail out of the sound, and stood to tho eastward to get clear of i\w straits, which wo accom- plished tho same evening, but were battled for two or three days with liglit winds before we could clear the coast. We then stood to the SSE. till we got into the liititiide of HC)" S., without any- thing remarkable hiip])ening, having a great swell from the south- ward. At this tinuj the winds l(«»i»an in blow strong from the SW. and the weather to bo very i-old ; anl as tho ship was low and deep Inden, the sen made a continual breach o\er her, which kept us always wet , aitd by her straining, very tVw of the ]ie()j)Ie were dry in bed or on d(>(:k, having no siielter to keep tho sea from tiu^m. The birds were the only companions we hnd in tbis va.st ocean, except now and then we saw a whale or porpoiso. We found a very strong current setting to tiie eastward, ^\'e were very little more than a month fron\ Cape I'alliscr in N(!w Zealand to C^pe Horti, which is one hundr<>il and twenty -one degrees of ioni;»tutl«. and had continual westerly wimls from >SW. to NW., with % great sea following. On opening some casks of pease and Hour that had been stowp«l on i\w coals, we found them very much ilamaged and Mot eatable, so thought it most prudent to make for tho Caj>o of Good Hope. On the 17th made the land of tho Cape of Uood Hope, anil on the '- li (l in Talile Bay. Here 1 remained, refitting the sb-- 1 ri. resiling niv people till tlu' Itijh of .'Vpil, when 1 sailed f i iigliind, and on the 14th of July anchor»>i nt Spithe»M.i. !i| CHAFrER XXXIII. TRANSACTIONS AT THE CAPB OP GOOD HOPE— ARRIVAL OK THK SHIP AT BT. HELENA —PASSAGE KROM ST. HELENA TO THE WESTERN ISLANDS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP THE ISLAND OP ASCENSION AND KEUNANDO NORONHA— ARRIVAL AT THK ISLAND OF PAYAL— THE RETURN OP THE " HE.SOLITION " TO ENGI.AND. 1776. Uarcta. I NOW resume my own journal, which Captain Fur- neaux's interesting inrrative in the preceding chapter had obliged me to suspend. The day after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope I went on shore and waited on the governor, Baron Plettcnherg, and other principal officers, who received and treabid us with the greatest politeness, contributing all in their power to iiiake it agreeable. And as there are few people more obliging to strangers than the Dutch in general at this place, and refreshments of all kinds are nowhere to be got in such abunuance, we enjoyed some real repose after the fatigues of a long voyage. The good treatment which strangers meet with at the Cape of Good Hope, and the necessity of breathing a little fresh air, has introduced a custom not common anywhere else, which is for all the officers who can be spared out of the ships to reside on shore. We followed this custom. My.solf, the two ]\Ir. Forsters, and Mr. Hparrnian took up our abode with IVIr. Urandt, a gentleman well known to the English by his obliging readiness to serve them. My first care after my arrival was to procure fresh-liaked bread, fresh meat, greens, and wine for those who remained on board, and, being provided every day during our stay with these articles, they were soon restored to their usual strength. We had only three men on board whom it was thought necessary to send on shore for the recovery of their health, and for these I procured quarters at the rate of half a crown per day, for which they wero provided with victuals, drink, and lodging. in*] KEPA/RS AT ST. HKl.RXA. 321 "We now went to work to Biipply all our defects. For tluH purpose wo erected a tent on sliore, to which wo sent our fusks and sails to bo repaired. That our rig;|in^', snils, etc., should l»o worn out will not be wondered at when it is known that during this circumnavigation of the globe — that is, from our leaving this place to our return to it again, wo had sailed no less than tv/^cnty thousand leagues, an extent of voyage nearly ecpial to three times the equatorial circuujferenco of the earth, and which, I apprehend, was never sailed by any ship in the same space of time befora And yet, in all this great run, wo sprung neither low-masts, top- mast, lower nor topsail yard, nor so much as broke a low(!r or topmast shroud, which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, must bo owing to the good properties of our ship. By the 26th of April our work was finished, and having got on board all necessary stores and a fresli supply of provisions and water, we took leave of the governor and other principal officers, and tho next morning repaired on board. Soon after, the M'ind coming fair, we weighed and put to sra. As soon as wo were under sail wo saluted tho garrison witli thirteen guns, which com- l)liment was immediately returned with tho same number. At daybreak in tho morning of tho 15th of ^lay wo saw the island of St. IFelena, and at midnight anchored in tho road before the town, on tho north-west side of the island. Governor Sheltowe and the principal gentlemen of tho island received me, and treated me during my stay with tho greatest ])oliteness by showing mo every kind of civility in their power. Within these three years* a new church has been built, some other new buildings were in hand, a commodious landing-placo for boats has been maile, ai\d several other improvements which add strength and beauty to tho jilace. I>uring our stay hero wo finished some necessary repairs of the ship which wo liad not time to do at XXw. Cape. Wo also filled all our empty water-casks, and tho crow were served with fresh beef purchased at fivepenco per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, and is tho only refreshment to bo had worth mentioning. On tho 21st I took leave of the governor, and repaired on board. Upon my leaving tho shore T was saluted with thirteen • 80c pago 101, first voyage. (Ml) 21 322 ASCENSIOX ISLAND. [1778. i!i ill! il guns, and upon my getting under sail I was saluted with thirteen more. In the morning of the 28th I made the island of Ascension, and the same evening anchontd in Cross Bay. The island of Ascension is about ton miles in length and about five or six in breadth. It shows a surface composed of barren hills and valleys, on the most of which not a shrub or plant is to be seen for several miles, and whore we found nothing but stones and sand, or rather slags and ashes — an indubitable sign that the isle, at some remote time, has been destroyed by a volcano which has thrown up vast heaps of stones and oven hills. A high moun- tain at the south-cast end of the isle seems to be left in its original state and to have escaped the general destruction. I was told that about some part of the isle is very good land on which might be raised many necessary articles, and some have been at the trouble of sowing turnips and other useful vegetables. Turtle, I am told, are to be found at this islo from January to June. The method of catching them is to have people upon the several sandy bays to watch their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which is always in the night, and then to turn them on their backs till there bo an opportunity to take them olF the next day. On the 31st of May we left Ascension, and steered to the north- ward with a fine gale at SE. by R I had a great desire to visit the island of St Matthew to settle its situation ; but as I found the winds would not let me fetch it, I steered for the island of Fernando do Noronha on the coast of Brazil. Perhaps I should have performed a more acceptable service to navigation if I had gone in search of the island of St Paul. The truth is, I was unwilling to prolong the passage in searching for what I was not sure to find, nor was I willing to give up every object which might tend to the improvement of navigation or geography for the sake of getting home a week or a fortnight sooner. It is but seldom that opportunities of this kind offer, and when they do they are too often neglected. On the 9th of June at noon wo made the island of Fernando de Noronha. It appeared in detached and peaked hills, the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. As wo drew near the south-east part of the isle, we perceived several unconnected sunken rocks lying nearly a league from tlic June. , ^ 1. J tL. 177a] ACROSS THE EQUATOR. 3*3 ghore, on which thn soa broke in a groat surf. After Htanding •vTy near tliese rocks, wo hoisted our colours, and then horo up round tho north end of tho isK?, for wo could seo that the land was divided by narrow channels. Wo continued to steer round tho northern point till tho sandy beaches began to apjK'ar. At this time, on a gun being (irod from one of tho forts, tho Portuguese colours were displayed, and the example wjus followcsd by all tho other forts. As the purpose for which I made tin; islaiul was now answered, I had no intention to anchor, and tluTcforo wo made sail and stood away to tho northward, with a fine fresh gale at ESE. On tho 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, wo crossed tho equator. At five o'clock in tho evening of the 13th wo made tho island of Fayal, one of tho Azores, and at eight o'clock next morn- ing wo anchored in twenty fathoms water, souKitliing more than half a mile from the shore. As my sole design in stopping here was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity of fixing with some degree of certainty the longitude of these islands, tho moment we anchored I sent an oflicer to wait on the English consul and to notify our arrival to tho governor. Mr. Dent, who was acting as consul, not only procured perniission for Mr. Wales to make obser'-ations on shore, but accommodated him with a convenient place in his garden to set up Jiis instruments. Wo were not more obliged to Mr. Dent for the very friendly readiness he showed in procuring us this and eveiy other thing we wanted than for tho very lil)eral and hospitable entertainment we mot with at his house, which was open to accommodate us both night and day. During our stay the ship's company was served with fresh beef, and wo took on board about fifteen tons of water, which we brought off in the country's boats at the rate of about three shillings per ton. Fresh provisions for present use may be got — such as beef, vegetables, and fruit, and hogs, sheep, and poultry for sea-stock — all at a pretty reasonable price ; but I do not know that any sea- provisions are to bo had, except wine. The bullocks and hogs aro very good, but the sheep are small and wretchedly poor. The principal produce of Fayal is wlieat and Indian corn. The little city of Villa do Horta, like all others belonging to the Portuguese, is crowded with religious buildings — there being IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 1 5 '""=== ^ m 1.4 M 1.6 -M- V <^ /} Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ■^^ Sp fiJ^ i?.r 1 1 ! i 324 ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. [1776. no less than three convents of men and two of women, and eight churches. Having left the bar at four in the morning of the 19th, I steered for the west end of St. George's Island. As soon as we had passed it, I steered for the island of Terceira. I now edged away for the north side of the island, with a view to ranging the coast to the eastern point in order to ascertain the length of the island ; but the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and niglit approaching, I gave up the design and proceeded with all expedi- tion for England. On the 29th we made the land near Plymouth. The next morning we anchored at Spithead, and the same day I landed at Portsmouth and set out for London. Having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, in which time and under all changes of climate I lost but four men, and only one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss pt the conclusion of this journal to enumerate the several causes to Avhich, under the care of Providence, I conceive this uncommon good state of health experienced by my people was owing. Mention has been made of the extraordinary attention paid by the Admiralty in causing such articles to bo put on board as, either from experience or suggestion, it was judged would tend to preserve the health of the seamen. I shall not trespass upon the reader's time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were found the most useful. We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made sweet wort. To sucli of the men as showed the least symptoms of the scurvy this was given, from two to three pints a day to each man. This is, without doubt, one of the best anti- scorbutic sea medicines yet discovered. Sour krout, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a wholesome vegetable food, but, in my judgment, highly anti-scor- butic, and it spoils not by keeping. A pound of this was served to each man when at sea twice a week or oftener, as was thought necessary. Portable broth was another great article of wliich we had a large supply. An ounce of this to each man was boiled in their pease three days in the week ; and when wo were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was boiled with them and 1776.] PREVENTION OF SCURVY. 325 wheat or oatmeal every morning for bi*eakfast, and also with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several nourish- ing and wholesome messes, and Avas the means of making the people eat a greater quantity of vegetables than they would other- \. ise h.Tve done. Rob of lemon and orange is an anti-scorbutic we Avere not with- out. The surgeon made use of it in many cases with great success. But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as provisions or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful unless supported by certain regulations. On this principle many years' experience, together with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, Captains Campbell, Wallis, and other intelligent officers, enabled me to lay a plan whereby all was to be governed. The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraor- dinary occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather as if they had been at watch and watch, and had generally dry clothes to shift themselves when they happened to get wet. Care was also taken to expose them as little to wet weather as possible. Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, and clothes constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the ship clean p.nd dry between decks. Once or twice a week she was aired with fires, and when this could not be done, she was smoked with gunpowder mixed with vinegar or water. I also frequently had a fire made in an iron pot at the bottom of the well, which was of great use in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this and to cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great attention can- not be paid. The least neglect occasions a disagreeable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove. Pi.oper attention was paid to the ship's coppers, so that they were kept constantly clean. The fat which boiled out of the salt beef and pork I never suffered to be given to the people, being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy. I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though Ave tlid not Avant it ; because I look upon fresh Avater from the shore to bo more wholesome than that Avhich has been kept some time on board a ship. Of this essential article avo Avere never at an allowance, but had always plenty for every necessary 11 1 i :i ! .1 i ■ ! I III ■ 1 326 DANGERS OF THE VOYAGE. [1776. purpose. Navigators in general cannot, indeed, expect, nor would they wish to meet with such advantages in this respect as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried ua into very high latitudes; but the hardships and dangers inseparable from that situation were in some degree compensated by the singular felicity we enjoyed of extx*acting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an ocean strewed with ice. We came to few places where either the art of man or the bounty of nature had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to procure whatever of any kind could be met with by every means in my power, and to oblige our people to make use thereof, both by ray example and authority ; but the benefit arising from refreshments of any kind soon become so obvious that I had little occasion to recommend the one or to exert the other. It doth not become me to say how far the principal objects of our voyage have been obtained. Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events, nor been diversified by sudden transitions of fortune ; though my relation of it has been more employed in tracing our course by sea than in recording our operations on shore — this, perhaps, is a circumstance from which the curious reader may infer that the purposes for which we were sent into the southern hemisphere, were diligently and eflectually pursued. Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better enabled to gratify curiosity ; but we hope our not having found it, after all our persevering researches, will leave less room for future speculations about unknown worlds remaining to be explored. But, whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the possibility of preserving health among a numerous ship's company for sucli a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, when the dispute about a southern con- tinent shall have ceased to occupy the attention and to divide the judgment of philosophers. [1776. Jplbirt) l^ovaoc CHAPTER XXXIV. rUEPAUATION l''OB THE VOYAGE— OJfAl's BEHAVIOUU ON EiilBAKKINO— INSTIIUC- TIONS TO CAPTAIN COOK— DEPAUTURE OF THE "RESOLUTION." HAVING on the 9th day of February 177G received "76. a ccmmission to command His Majesty's sloop "^*^' the Resolution, 1 went on board the next day, hoisted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the same time, the Discovery, of three hundred tons burden, was purchased into the service, and the command of her given to Captain Clerke, who had been my second lieutenant on board the Resolution in my second voyage round the world, from which we had lately returned. On the 9th of IMarch, the Resolution was hauled out of dock into the river ; where we completed her rigging and took on board the stores and provisions requisite for a voyage of such duration. Both ships, indeed, were supplied with as much of every necessary article as we could conveniently stow, and with the best of every kind that could be procured. And, besides this, everything that had been found by the experience acquired during our former extensive voyages to be of any utility in preserving tl health of seamen was supplied in abundance. While we lay in Long Reach, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh PallLser, and others of the Board of Admiralty, as the last mark of the very great attention they had all along shoNvn to this equipment, paid us a visit on the 8th of June, to examine whether everything had been completed conformably to their intentions and orders and to the satisfaction of all who were to embark in the voyage. With the benevolent view of conveying some permanent trnr ! ;i 32S THE ''RESOLUTION" SAILS AGAIN. [1776. benefit to the inhabitants of (Haheite, and ot the other islands in the Pacific Ocean whom we might happen to visit, His Majesty having commanded some useful animals to be carried out, we took on botivd, on the 10th, a bull, two cows with their calves and some sheep, with hay and corn for their subsistence. I was also, from the same laudable motives, furnished with a sufficient quantity of such of our European garden seeds as could not fail to be a valuable present to our newly-discovered islands, by adding fresh supplies of food to their own vegetable productions. The same humane attention was extended to our own wants. Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for our crews. Nor did the extmordinary care of those at the head of the naval department stop here. They were equally solicitous to afford us every assistance towards rendering our voyage of public utility. Accordingly we received on board several astronomical and nautical instruments which the Board of Longitude entrusted to me ; we having engaged to that board to make all the necessary observations, during the voyage, for the improvement of astronomy and navigation. On the 15th, the liesolution sailed from Long Roach, with the Discovery in company. As we were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands on our way to the intended scene of our fresh operations, it had been determined not to omit this opportunity of carrying Omai back to his native country. Omai left London with a mixture of regret and sjitisfaction. When we talked about England, and about those who, during his stay, had honoured him with their protection or friendship, I could observe that his spirits were visibly affected, and that it was with difficulty he could refrain from tears. But the instant the conversation turned to his own islands, his eyes began to sparkle with joy. He vfos furnished by His Majesty with an ample provision of every article which, during our intercourse with his country, we had observed to be in any estimation there, either as useful or as orna- mental. In short every method had been employed, both during his abode in England and at his departure, to nake him the instrument of conveying to the inhabitants of the islands of the Pacific Ocean the most exalted opinion of the greatness and generosity of the British nation. l...:M [1776. 1776.] SECRET INSTRUCTIONS. 329 On the 8th of July I received, by express, my instructions for the voyage : — SECRET INSTUUCTIONS FOR CAl'TAIN JAME3 COOK, COMMANDER OF HIS majesty's SLOOP THE "RESOLUTIOX." "Whereas the Earl of Sandwich has signified to us His Majesty's pleasure that an attempt should be made to find out a northern passage by sea from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean ; and whereas we have, in pursuance thereof, caused His Majesty's sloops Resolution and Discovery to be fitted, in all respects proper, to proceed upon a voyage for the purpose above men- tioned ; and from the experience we have had of your abilities and good conduct in your late voyages, have thought fit to entrust you with the conduct of the present intended voyage, and with that view appointed you to command the first-mentioned sloop, and directed Captain Gierke, who commands the other, to follow your orders for his further proceedings : You are hereby required and directed to proceed with the '^aid two sloops directly to the Cape of Good Hope, unless you shall judge it necessary to stop at "iladeira, the Cape de Verd, or Canary Islands, to take in wine fo ' the use of their companies; in which case you are at liberty so to do, taking care to remain there no longer than may be necessary for that purpose. On your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to refresh the sloops' companies with as much provision and water as can be conveniently stowed. " ion are, if possible, to leave the Cape of Good Hope by the end of October or beginning of November next, and proceed to the southward in search of some islands, said to have been lately seen by the French, in the latitude 48' south, and about the meridian of Mauritius. In case you find those islands, you are to examine them thoroughly for a good harbour ; and upon discover- ing one, make the necessary observations to facilitate the finding it again ; as a good port in that situation may hereafter prove very useful, although it should afford nothing moig than shelter, wood, and water. You are not, however, to spend too much time in looking out for those islands, or in the examination of them if found, but to proceed to Otaheite, or the Society Isles (touching at New Zealand in your way thither if you shoi''i judge it r~ i I i 330 ROUTE DEFINED. [1776. necessary and coivenient), and taking care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the sloops' companies the refresh- ment they may stand in need of, before you prosecute the further object of these instructions. " Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Isles, y^ u are to land Omai at such of them as he may choose, and to leave him there. " You are to distribute among the chiefs of those islands such part of the presents with which you have been supplied as you shall judge proper, reserving the remainder to distribute among the natives of the country you may discover in the Northern Hemisphere; and having refreshed the people belonging to tho sloops under your command, and taken on board such wood and water as they may respectively stand in need of, you are to leave those islands in the beginning of February, or sooner if you shall judge it necessary, and then to proceed in as direct a course as you can to the coast of New Albion, endeavouring to fall in witli it in the latitude of 45° north ; and taking care in your way thither not to lose any time in search of new lands, or to stop at any you may fall in with, unless you find it necessary to recruit your wood and water. " You are also, in your way thither, strictly enjoined not to touch upon any part of the Spanish dominions on the western continent of America, unless driven thither by some unavoidable accident, in which case you are to stay no longer there than shall be absolutely necessary, and to be very careful not to give any umbrage or offence to any of the inhabitants or subjects of His Catholic Majesty. And, if, in your further progress to the north- ward, as hereafter directed, you ro far from TfT n ;! .) f 1777.] STOCKING THE COUNTRY. 339 being disagreeable. They had pretty good eyes, and thoir teeth were tolei'ably even, but very dirty. M(5st of them had their liiiir- and beards smeared with a red ointment, and some had their faces also painted with the same composition. They received every present we made to them without the least appearance of satisfaction. I had brought two pigs ashore, Avith a view to leave them in the woods. The instant these came within their reach they seized them, as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying them off immediately, with no other intention, as we could perceive, but to kill them. Immediately after their retreat I ordered the two pigs, being a boar and a sow, to be carried about a mile within the woods at the head of the bay. I saw them left there, by the side of a fresh- water brook. A young bull and a cow, and ?ome sheep and goats, were also at first intended to have been left by me as an additional present to Van Diemen's Land. But I soon laid aside all thought of this, from a persuasion that the natives, incapable of entering into my views of improving their country, would destroy them. If ever they should meet with the pigs, I have no doubt this will be their fate. Van Diemen's Land has been twice visited before. It was so named by Tasman, who discovered it in November 1642. From that time it had escaped all further notice by European navigators, till Captain Furneaux touched at it in March 1773. I hardly need say that it is the southern point of New Holland, which, if it doth not deserve the name of a continent, is by far the largest island in the world. The only animal of the quadruped kind wo got was a sort of opossum, about twice tlie size of a largo rat. It is of a dusky colour above, tinged with a brown or rusty cast, and whitish below. About a third of the tail towards its tip is white, and bare underneath, by which it probably hangs on the branches of trees, as it lives on berries. The kangaroo, without all dovibt, also inhabits here, as the natives we met with had some pieces uf their skins ; and we several times saw animals, though indistinctly, in the woods which, from the size, oould be no other. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 30th, a light 1^77. breeze springing up at west, we weighed anchor, and put ^'^^^'T'' TWT I ill 340 QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND AGAIN. [1777. to sea from Adventure Bay. On the 10th of February, at four in tlie afternoon, we discovered the land of New Zealand, and at ten o'clock on the 12th anchored in our old station in Queen Charlotte's Sound. We had not been long at anchor before several canoes filled •with natives came alongside of the ships, but very few of them would venture on board, which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was well kno /n to them all. There was one man in particular among them whom I had treated witli remarkable kindness during the whole of my stay when I was last there. Yet now neither professions of friendship nor presents could prevail upon him to come into the ship. This shyness was to be accounted for only upon the supposition that they were apprehensive we had revisited their country in order to revenge the death of Captain Furn«aux's people. Seeing Omai on board my ship now, whom they must have remembered to have seen on board the Adventure when the melan- choly affair happened, and whose iirst conversation with them as they approached generally turned on that subject, they must be well assured that I was no longer a stranger to it. I thought it necessary, therefore, to use every endeavour to assure them of the continuance of my friendship, and that I should not disturb them on that account. I do not know whether this had any weight with them, but certain it is, that they very soon laid aside all manner of rostrtiint and distrust. On the 13th we set uji two tents, one from each ship, on the same spot where we had pitched them formerly. The remainder of the water-casks were also sent on shore, with the cooper to trim and a sufficient number of sailors to fill them. Two men were appointed to brew spruce beer, and the carpenter and his crew wei'o ordered to cut wood. A boat with a party of men, under the direction of one of tlie mates, was .sent to collect grass for our cattle, and the people that remained on board were employed in refitting the ship. In this manner we were all profitably busied during our stay. If the natives entertained any suspicion of our revenging these acts of barbarity, they very soon laid it aside. For during the course of the day a groat number of families came from difl'crent [1777. 1777.] DISAPPEARANCE OF ENGLISH SEEDS. 341 at four in md at ten Charlotte's anoes filled w of them raordinary, 1 particular uess during low neither ipon him to ed for only ad revisited FuriT^aux's ' must have n the melan- ith them as liey must be I thought it them of the disturb them any weight aid aside all 1 ship, on the 'he remainder looper to trim wo men were and his crew of men, under t crass for our e employed in ofitably busied evenging these i^or during the frotn dilVcrent parts of the coast, and took up their residence close to us, Tlie advantage we received from the natives coming to live with us was not inconsiderable ; for every day some of them went out to catch fish. Nor was there any deficiency of other refreshments. Celery, scurvy-grass, and portable soup were boiled with the pease and wheat for both ship's companies every day during our whole stay ; so that, if any of our people had contracted the seeds of the scurvy, such a regimen soon removed them. But the truth is, when we arrived here there were • nly two invalids upon the sick lists in both ships. Amongst our occasional visitors was a chief named Kahoora, who, as I was informed, headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himself killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. To judge of the character of Kahoora by what I have heard from many of his countrymen, he seemed to be more feared than beloved among them. Not satisfied with telling me that he was a very bad man, some of them even importuned me to kill him ; and I believe they were not a little surprised that I did not listen to them, for, according to their ideas of equity, this ought to have been done. If I had followed the advice of all our pretended friends, I might have extirpated the whole race, for the people of each hamlet or village by tarns applied to me to destroy the other. When the Adventure first arrived at Queen Charlotte's Sound in 1773, Mr. Bayly and the people with him, at their leisure hours, planted several spots with English garden seeds. Not the least vestige of these now remained. It is probable they had all been rooted out to make room for buildings when the village was rein- habited, for at all the otlier gardens then planted by Captain Furneaux we found cabbages, onions, leeks, and a few potatoes. These potatoes, whicli were first brought from the Cape of Good Hope, had been greatly ini])roved by change of soil. At daybreak on the 16th I set out with a party of men in five boats to collect food for our cattle. We proceeded about three leagues up tlie sound, and then landed on the cast side, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much grass as loaded the two launches. As we returned down the sound we visited Grass Cove, memor- iPiii 'i 342 HISTORY OF THE MASSACRE. [1777. able as the scene of the massacre of Captain Furneaux's people. Whilst we were at this place our curiosity prompted us to inquire into the circumstances attending the melancholy fate of our countrymen, and Omai was made use of as interpreter for this purpose. The natives present answered all the questions that were put to them on the subject without reserve, and like men who are under no dread of punishment for a crime of which they are not guilty ; for we already knew that none of thorn had been concerned in the unhappy transaction. They told us that while our people were sitting at dinner, surrounded by several of the natives, some of the latter stole, or snatched from them, some bread and fish, for which they were beaten. This being resented, a quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanders were shot dead by the only two muskets that were lired ; for, before our people had time to discharge a third, or to load again those that had been lired, the natives rushed in upon them, overpowered them with their num- bers, and put them all to death. Besides relating the history of the massacre, they made us acquainted with the very spot that was the scene of it. They pointed to the place of the sun to mark to us at what hour of the day it happened, and according to this it must have been late in the aft-ernoon. They also showed us the place where the boat lay. One of their number — a black servant of Captain Furneaux — was left in the boat to take care of her. This black was the cause of the quarrel, which was said to have happened thus : One of the natives stealing something out of the boat, the negro gave him a severe blow with a stick. The cries of the f(>llow being heard by his countrymen at a distance, they imagined he was killed, and immediately began the attack on our people, who, before they had time to reach the boat, or to arm themselves against the unex- pected impending danger, fell a sacrifice to the fury of their savage assailants. We stayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the rest of the Ixjats with grass, celery, and scurvy-grass, we embarked to return to the ships, where some of the boats did not arrive till one o'clock the next morning ; and it was fortunate that they got on board then, for it afterwards blew a perfect storm, with abundance of rain. mr.j DESIRE FOR REVENGE, 343 These storms are very frequent here, and sometimes violent and troublesome. The neighbouring mountains, which at theso times are always loaded with vapours, not only increase the force of the wind, but alter its direction in such a manner that no two blasts follow each other from the same quarter and the nearer the shore, the more their effects are felt. By this time more than two-thirds of the inhabitants of tho sound had settled themselves about us. Great numbers of them daily frequented the ships and the encampment on the shore, but the latter became by far the most favourite place of resort. They were specially delighted while our people melted some seal blubber. No Greenlander was ever fonder of ti'ain-oil than our friends here seemed to be. They relished the very skimmings of the kettle and dregs of the casks ; but a little of the pure stink- ing oil was a delicious feast, so eagerly desired that I suppose it is seldom enjoyed. On the 24th of February we were visited by Kahoora, tho leader of the party who cut off the crow of the Adventure's boat. This was the third time he had visited us, without betraying the smallest appearance of fear. I was ashore when he now arrived, but had got on board just as he was going away. Omai, who had returned with me, presently pointed him out, and solicited me to shoot him. Not satisfied with this, he addressed himself to Kahoora, threatening to be his executioner if ever he presumed to visit us again. The New Zealander paid so little regard to these threats that he returned the next morning with his whole family — men, women, and children to the number of twenty and upwards. Omai was the first who acquainted me with liis being alongside the ship, and desired to know if he should ask him to come on board. I told him he might, and accordingly he introduced the chief into the cabin, saying, " There is Kahoora ; kill him ! " He afterwards expostulated with me very earnestly. " Why do you not kill him ? You tell me if a man kills another in England that he is hanged for it. This man has killed ten, and yet you will not kill him, though many of his countrymen desire it, and it would be very good." Omai's arguments, though specious enough, having no weight with me, I desired him to ask the chief why he had killed I li I I !ii S ill i h li I 344 KAHOORA'S STORY. [1777. Captain Furneaux's people. At this question Kahoora folded bis arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap, and I firmly believe he expected instant deatli. But no sooner was he assured of his safety than he became cheerful. He did not, however, seem willing to give me an answer to the question that had been put to him till I had again and again repeated my promise that he should not be hurt. Then he ventured to toll us that one of his countrymen having brought a stone hatchet to barter, the man to whom it was offered took it, and would neither return it nor give up anything for it, on which the owner of it snatched up the bread as an equivalent, and then the quarrel ' began. The remainder of Kahoora's account of this unhappy affair differed very little from what we had before learned from the rest of his countrymen. He mentioned the narrow escape he had during the fray, a musket being levelled at liim, which he avoided by skulking behind the boat, and another man who stood close to him was shot dead. It was evident that most of the natives we had met with since our arrival, as they knew I was fully acquainted with the history of the massacre, expected I should avenge it with the death of Kahoora; and many of them seemed not only to wish it, but expressed their surprise at my forbearance. For some time before we arrived at New Zealand, Omai had expressed a desire to take one of the natives with him to his own country. We had not been there many days before a youth, about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named Tiarooa, otFered to accompany him, and took up his residence on board. I paid little attention to this at first, imagining that he would leave us when we were about to depart, and after he had got what he could from Omai. At length, finding that he was fixed in his resolution to go with us, and having learned that he was the only son of a deceased chief, and that his mother, still living, was a woman much respected here, I caused it to be made known to them all that if the young man went away with us he would never return. But this de- claration seemed to make no sort of impression. Tiarooa paited from his mother with all the marks of tender atl'ection that might 1777.] NA TI VE RE VENGE. 345 be expected between a parent and a child wlio were never to meet again. That Tiarooa might be sent away in a manner becoming liis birth, a boy about nine or ten years old, named Kokoa, was to go with him as liis servant. He was presented to me by liis own fatlier, who, I believe, would have parted with his dog with far less indifference. The very clothing the boy had he stripped him of, and left him as naked as he was born. It was to no purpose that I endeavoured to convince these people of the impossibility of these youths ever returning home. Not one, not even their nearest relations, seemed to trouble themselves about their future fate. From my own observations, and from the information of Taweiharooa and others, it appears to me that the New Zealandera must live under perpetual apprehension of being destroyed by each other ; there being few of their tribes that have not, as they think, sustained wrongs from some other tribe, which they are continually upon the watch to revenge. And perhaps the desire of a good meal may bo no small incitement. I am told that many years will sometimes elapse before a favourable opportunity happens, and that the son never loses sight of an injury that has been done to his father. Their method of executing their horrible designs is by stealing upon the adverse party in ^he night, and if they tind them unguarded, they kill every one indiscriminately, not even sparing the women and children. When the massacre is completed, they either feast and gorge themselves on the spot, or carry off as many of the bodies as they can, and devour them at home with acts of brutality too shocking to bo described. This perpetual state of war operates so strongly in producing habitual circumspection that one hardly ever finds a New Zea- lander off his guard, either by night or by day. Indeed, no other man can have such powerful motives to be vigilant, as the preser- vation both of body and soul depends upon it. For according to their system of belief, the soul of the man whose flesh is devoured by the enemy is doomed to perpetual fire, while the soul of the man whose body has been rescued from those who killed him ascendjj to the habitations of the ijods. ;l! 1 , 11 CHAPTER XXXVI. PllOSKCUTION or THE VOVAOE—AN ISLAND CALLKl) MANCEEA DIMCOVEUED— TIIK DISCOVEUY OF AN ISLAND CALLED WATEKOO — MU. ANDEUSON'm NAHRATIVE — OTAKOOTAIA VIHITED — HEUVKY'h ISLAND FOUND TO HE IXIIAIUTED— PALMKUSTON'h island TOLCHEI \T— BEFIlESHMKNTa OBTAINED— AKIUVAL AT THE FllIENDLY ISLANDS. ON the 25th, at ten o'clock in the morning, a light breeze springing up at NW. by W., we weighed, stood out of he sound, and made sail through the strait, with the Discoverj in company. We had no sooner lost sight of the land than the two New Zealand boys who had wished to ac<"ompany our ship repented heartily of the step they had taken, partly due to the seasickness they now experienced. All the soothing encouragement we could think of availed but little. They wept both in public and in private, and made their lamentations in a kind of song, which, as far as we could comprehend the meaning of the words, was expres- sive of their praises of their country and people, from which they were to be separated for ever. Thus they continued for many days, till their sea-sickness wore off, and the tumult of their minds began to subside. Then these fits of lamentation became less and less frequent, and at length entirely ceased. Their native country and their friends were by degrees forgotten, and they appeared to be as firmly attached to us as if they had been born among us. On the 29th of INIarcli, at ten in the morning, as we were standing to the NE., the Discovery made the signal of seeing land. We soon discovered it to be an island of no great extent, and stood for it till sunset. At daybreak next morn- ing I bore up for the lee or west side of the island, as neither anchorage nor landing appeared to be practicable on tlie south side, on account of a great surf, which broke everywhere with violence against the shore. March. 1777.] ISLAND OF MAiXGEEA DISCOVERED. 347 VKUKU— TIIK 1 NAimATIVE INIIAIUTKI)— JU— AlUUVAL Ljht breeze out of lio iscovcrij in two New repented ica-sickness lit we coukl blic and in 5, which, as was expres- which they 1 for many their minds ime less and Live country By appeared . among us. as we were he signal of island of no : next morn- 1, as neither n the south y where with Wo presently found that the island was inhabit(!d, and being near the whore, wo could perceive with our glasses that several of the natives, who appeared upon a sandy beach, were all armed with long spears and clubs, which they brandished in the air with signs of threatening, or as some on board interpretctd their atti- tudes, with invitations to land. Most of them appeared naked, but some of them had i)ieco8 of cloth of dilFcrent colours, which they wore as a gurmiint thrown about their shoulders. And almost all of tliom had a white wrapper about their heads, not much unlike a turban or iiigh conical cap. Wo could also perceive that they were of a tawny colour, and in general of a middling stature, but robust, and inclining to corpulence. At this time a small canoe was launched in a great hurry from the farther end of the beach, and putting off with two men, paddled towards us, when I brought to. They stopped short, however, as if afraid to approach, until Oniai, who addressed them in the Otaheite language, in some measure quieted their appre- hensions. They then came near enough to take some beads and nails, which were tied to a piece of wood and thrown into the canoe. Oniai, perhaps improperly, put the question to them, whether they ever ate human ilesh, which they answered in the negative with a mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whose name Avas Mourooa, being asked how he came by a scar on his forehead, told us that it was the consequence of a wound ho had got in fighting with the people of an island which lies to the north-eastward, who sometimes came to invade them. They afterwards took hold of a rope, but still would not venture on board. Omai inquired where we could land, and we were directed to two different places. But I saw with regret that the attempt could not be made at either place, unless at the risk of having our boats filled with water, or even staved to pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our search for anchorage, for wo could find no bottom till within a cable's length of the breakers. There wo met with from forty to twenty fathoms depth, over sharp coral rocks, so that anchoring would have been attended with much more danger than landing. Thus we were obliged to leave unvisited this fine island, which ■iWfl 348 BEAUTY OF THE NATIVES. [1777. seemed capable of supplying all our wants. The name of the island they called Mangeea. The natives seemed to resemble those of Ota- heite and the Marquesas in the beauty of their persons. They salute strangers much after the manner of the New Zealanders, by join- ing noses ; adding, however, the additional ceremony of taking the hand of the person to whom they are paying civilities, and rubbing it with a degree of force upon their nose and mouth. After leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th, we con- tinued our course northward all that night and till noon on the 31st, when we again saw land in the direction of NE. by N., distant eight or ten leagues. Next morning we got abreast of its north end. Soon after I sent three armed boats to look for anchoring ground and a landing-place. In the meantime we worked up under the island with the ships. Just as the boats were putting off, we observed several single canoes coming from the shore. They first went to the Discovery, she being the near- est ship ; and soon after, three of the canoes came alongside the Resolution, each conducted by one man. They are long and nar- row, and supported by outriggers. Some knives, beads, and other trifles were conveyed to our visitors, and tiiey gave us a few cocoa- nuts upon our asking for them. 13ut they did not part with them i)y way of exchange for what they had received from us, for they seemed to have no idea of bartering, nor did they appear to esti- mate any of our presents at a high rate. With a little persuasion one of them came on board, and the other two, encouraged by his example, soon followed him. Their whole behaviour denoted that they were quite at ease, and felt no sort of apprehension of our detaining or using them ill. After their departure another canoe arrived, conducted by a man who brought a bunch of plantains specially as a present to me, for whom he asked by name, which he had learned froni Or.iai, who was sent before us in a boat with Mr. Gore. In return for this civility I gave him an axe and a piece of red cloth, when Ik; paddled back to the shore well satisfied. I afterwards understood from Oniai that this present was sent from tho king or principal chief of the island. Not long after, a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came towards us. As they drew near the ship they recited some words in concert, by way of chorus, one of i/heir L1777. 1777.] LANDING ON THE REEF. 349 )f the island hose of Ota- They salute Jfs, by join- f taking the and rubbing 0th, we con- noon on the of NE. by got abreast ,s to look for leantime we as the boats coming from ing the near- ilongside the ong and nar- ds, and other i a few cocoa- irt with them 11 us, for they ippear to esti- tle persuasion uraged V)V his denoted that ension of our inducted by a ,s a present to [;d from Oraai, In return for cloth, when ho ids understood g or principal in which were the ship they i, one of their number first standing up and giving the word before each rep.;ti- tiun. When tliey had finished their solemn chant they came along- side and asked for the chief. As soon as I showed myself, a pig and a ft. cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the ship, and the principal person in the canoe made me an additional present of a piece of matti: g. Our visitors were conducted into the cabin and to otiier pact J of the ship. Some objects seemed to strike them with a degree of surprise ; but nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows and horses, nor did they form the least conception of their nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass the limits of their ideas, for they gave us to understand that they knew them to be birds. I made a present to my new friend of what I thought would be most accept- able to him, but on his going away he seemed rather disappointed than pleased. I afterwards understood that he was very desirous of obtaining a dog, of which anin)al this island could not boast. On the 3rd of April some of the officers landed safely upon the reef, and I shall give Mr. Anderson's account in his own words. "An islander took hold of each of us, obviously with an intention to support us in walking over the rugged rocks to the beach. We were conducted from the beach by our guides, amidst a great crowd of people, who flocked with very eager curiosity to look at lis. We were led up an avenue of cocoa-palms, and soon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs, which they lield on their shoulders. After walking a little way amongst these, we found a person, who seemed a chief, sitting on the ground cross-legged, cooling himself with a sort of triangular fan made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a polished handle of black wood fixed to one corner. " We proceeded still amongst the men armed with clubs, and came to a second chief, who sat fanning himself. In the same manner we were conducted to a third chief ; he also was sitting, and adorned with red feathers, and after saluting him as we had dene the others, he desired us to sit down, which we were very willing to do, being pretty well fatigued with walking up, and with the excessive lieat we felt amongst the vast crowd that sur- rounded us. " After this, making use of Omai as interpreter, we informed TF :ii|.!! ; liHNi »^.,i 350 MR. ANDERSON'S ACCOUNT. [1777. the chiefs, whoso names were Ottoroo, Taroa, and Fatouwcera, with what intention we had come on shore, but were given to understand that we must wait till the next day, and then we should have what was wanted. "They now seemed to take some pains to separate us from each other, and every one of us had his circle to surround and gaze at him. For my own part, I was at one time above an hour apart from my friends, and when I told the chief that I wanted to speak to Omai, he peremptorily refused my request. At the same time, I found the people began to steal several trifling things which I had in my pocket. From these circumstances I now entertained apprehensions that they might have formed the design of detaining us amongst them. They did not, indeed, seem to be of a disposition so savage as to make us anxious for the safety of our persons; but it was, nevertheless, vexing to think we had hazarded being detained by their curiosity. In this situation I asked for something to eat and they readily brought to mo some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a sort of sour pudding ; and on my complaining much of the heat occa'iored by tlie crowd, the chief himself condescended to fan me, and .'^ave me a small piece of cloth which he had round his waist. '■ Mr. Burney happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned my suspicions to him, and to put it to the test whether they were well founded, we attempted to get to tiio beach. But w' were stopped when about half way by some men, who told us that we must go back to the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the same apprehensions. But he liad, as he fancied, an additional reason for being afraid, for he had observed that they had dug a hole in tlio ground for an oven, which they were now heating, and he could assign no other reason for this than that they meant to roa.st and oat us, as is practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Nay, he went so far as to ask them the question, at which they were greatly surprised, ask- ing in return whether that was a custom with u.s. " In the afternoon, the second chief, directing the multitude to make a pretty largo ring, made us sit down by liim. A consider- able number of cocoa-nuts were now brought, and shortly after a long green basket, with a suliicient quantity of baked plantains to liave served a dozen persons. A piece of the young hog that had 1777,] THE ISLAND OF WATEEOO. 351 been dressed was then set before each of us, of w)iich we were desired to eat. Our appetites, however, had failed, from tho fatigues of the day ; and though we did eat a little to plcaso them, it was without satisfaction to ourselves. " It being now near sunset, they allowed us to go on board, and wo rowed to tho ship, very well pleased that we had at last :,ot out of the hands of our troublesome masters." It has been mentioned that Omai was sent on this expedition. He was asked by the natives a great many questions concerning us, our country, and the sort of arms Ave used ; and according to the account he gave me, his answers were not a little upon the marvellous. As, for instance, he told them that our country had ships as large as their island, on board which were instruments of war of such dimensions that several people might sit within them, and that one of these was sufficient to crush the whole island at one shot. This led them to inquire what sort of guns we actually had in our two ships. He said, that though they were but small in comparison with those he had just described, yet, with such as they were, we could, with the greatest ease, and at the distance the ships were from the shore, destroy the island, and kill every soul in it. They persevered in their inquiries regarding the means by which this could be done, and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened, luckily, to have a few cartridges in his pocket. These he produced, and the balls and the gun- powder were submitted to inspection. In the centre of a circle formed by tho natives, the inconsiderable quantity of gunpowder collected from his cartridges was properly disposed upon the ground, and by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven where the dinner was dressing, set on lire. The sudden blast and loud report, the mingled llamo and smoke that instantly succeeded, now filled the whole assembly with astonishment. They no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all Omai had said. This island is called Watoeoo by the natives ; but from tho circumstances already mentioned, it apjiears that AYateeoo can bo of littlo use to any ship that wants refreshment, unless in a case of tho most absolute necessity. 1 quitted \Vateeoo without regret on the 4th of April, and •TT m ill 1 1 t.;-i .1 I 352 HERVEY'S ISLAND REVISITED. [1777. steered for the neighbouring island, called by the natives Ota- kootaia or Wenooaette. There was a reef here surrounding the land, and a considerable surf breaking against the rocks ; not- withstanding which, our boats no sooner reached the west side of the island than they ventured in, and the party got safe on shore. The supply obtained . here consisted of about a hundred cocoa-nuts for each ship, and besides this refreshment for ourselves, we got for our cattle some grass and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa trees. As soon as the boats were hoisted in I made sail again, intend- ing to try our fortune at Hervey's Island, which was discovered in 1773, during my last voyage. As we drew near the island, six or seven canoes soon came near us. There were three to six men in each of thom. They stopped at the distance of about a stone's throw from the ship, and it was some time before Oniai could prevail upon them to come alongside ; but no entreaties could induce any of them to venture on board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamorous behaviour by no means indicated a disposition to trust us or treat us well. We afterwards learned that they had attempted to take some oars out of the Discoveri/a boat that lay alongside, and struck a man who endeavoured to prevent them. They also cut away with a shell a net with meat which hung over the ship's stern, and absolutely refused to restore it, though we afterwards purchased it of them. These people seemed to differ as much in person as in disposi- tion from the natives of Wateeoo. though the distance between the two islands is not very great. Their colour was of a deeper cast, and several had a fierce, rugged aspect, resembling the natives of New Zealand. The shell of a pearl oyster polished, hung about the neck, was the only ornamental fashion that we observed amongst thom ; for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament so generally prevalent amongst the natives of this ocean of puncturing or tattooing their bodies. Though singular in this, we had the most unequivocal proofs of their be- ing of the same common race. Their language approached still nearer to the dialect of Otaheite than that of Wateeoo or Mangeea. Like the inhabitants of these two islands, they inquired from whence our ships came, and whither bound ; who was our chief ; [1777. itivos Ota- inding the ocks ; not- ircsi side of te on shore. I cocoa-nuts ves, we got nd branches ;ain, intend- s discovered le island, six e to six men lOut a stone's Oniai could reaties could sir disorderly disposition to that they had boat that lay ircvent them. ch hung over it, though we I as in disposi- ;ancc between as of a deeper psembling the ^ster polished, shicn that we adopted that the natives of dies. Though ^fs of their be- ppvoached still oo or Mangeca. r inquired from was our chief ; 1777.] OPPOSITION OF NATIVES. 353 the number of our men on board ; and even the ship's name. And they very readily answered such questions as we proposed to them. Amongst other things, they told us they had seen two great ships like ours before, but that they had not spoken with them as they sailed past. There can be no doubt that these were the Resolution and Adventure. According to the account that they gave, their articles of food are cocoa-nuts, fish, and turtle, the island not pro- ducing plantains or bread-fruit, and being destitute of hogs and dogs. Having but very little wind, it was one o'clock before we drew near the north-west part of the island. I sent Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to sound and reconnoitre the coast, while we stood off and on with the ships. At three o'clock the boats returned, and Mr. King informed me that there was no anchorage for the ships, and that the boats could only land on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from the dry land. He said that a number of the natives came down upon the reef, armed with long pikes and clubs, as if they intended to oppose his landing. But as he had no motive to land, he did not give them an opportunity to use them. Having received this report, I considered that, as the ships could not be brought to an anchor, we should find the attempt to procure grass here would occasion much delay, as well as be attended with some danger. Besides, we were equally in want of water, and thou, \ the inhabitants had told us that there was water on their island, yet we knew neither in what quantity nor Ivom what distance we might be obliged to fetch it. Being thus disappointed at all the islands we had met with since our leaving New Zealand, and the unfavourable winds and other unforeseen circumstances having unavoidably retarded our progress so much, it was now impossible to think of doing anything this year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which we were still at so groat a distance, though the season for our operations there was already begun. In this situation it was absolutely necessary to pursue such measures as were most likely to preserve the cattle we had on board in the first place, and in the next place to save the stores and provisions of the ships, that we might be better able to prosecute our northern discoveries, (661) 23 :l i: 354 PALMERSTON ISLAND. [1777. which could not now comracnce till a year later than was originally intended. If I had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of water and of grass at any of the islands we had lately visited, it was my purpose to have stood back to the south till I had met with a westerly wind. But the certain consequence of doing this without such a supply would have been the loss of all the cattle before we could possibly reach Otaheite, without gaining any one advantage with regard to the g..cat object of our voyage. I there- fore determined to beu. away for the Friendjy Islands, where I was sure of meeting with abundance of everything I wanted. On the 7th of April I steered west by south, with a fine breeze easterly. I proposed to proceed first to JNIiddleburgh, or Eooa, thinking, if the wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board for the cattle to last till we should reach that island. But about noon next day those faint breezes that had attended and r" '^arded us so long again returned, and I found it necessary to haul more to the north to get into the latitude of Palmerston and Savage Islands, discovered in 1774, during my last voyage, so that, if necessity required it, we might have re- course to them. At length, at daybreak on the 13th, we saw Palmerston Island, distant about five leagues. However, we did not get up with it till eight o'clock the next morning. I then sent four boats, with an officer in each, to search the coast for the most convenient landing-place. For now we were under an absolute necessity of procuring from this island some food for the cattle, otherwise we must have lost them. What is comprehended under the name of Palmerston Island is a group of small islets. The boats first examined the south- easternmost of the islets which compose this group, and failing there, ran down to the second, where we had the satisfaction to see tliem land. About one o'clock one of the boats came on board, laden with scurvy-grass and young cocoa-nut trees, which at this time wa;" a feast for the cattle. This determined me to get a good supply of these articles before I quitted this station. The island is scarcely a mile in circuit, and not above three f(!et higher than the level of the sea. There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been here. Having got a sufficient inn. origiiially supply of visited, it I had met doing this [ the cattle ng any one E,. I there- ds, where I anted. I fine breeze h, or Eooa, re had food I reach that jes that had id I found it LG latitude of [, during my tght have re- 3th, v*^e saw vever, we did I then sent b for the most an absolute for the cattle, lerston Island led the south- ip, and failing satisfaction to came on board, , which at this e to get a good ot above three re no traces of ot a sufficient 1777.] ARIUl^AL AT THE FRIENDLY ISLES. 355 supply of food for the cattle by sunset,. I ordered everybody on board. The nine or ten low islets comprehended under the name of Palnierston Island, may be reckoned the heads or summits of the reef of coral rock that connects them together, covered only with a thin coat of sand, yet clothed, as already observed, with trees and plants. After leaving Palmerston Island, I steered west, with a view to make the best of my way to Annamooka. We still continued to have variable winds, frequently between the north and west, with squalls, some thunder, and much rain. The heat, which had been great for about a month, became now much more disagreeable in this close, rainy weather, and, from the moisture attending it, threatened soon to be noxious. However, it is remarkable enough, that though the only refreshment we had received since leaving the Cape of Good Hope was that at New Zealand, there was not as yet a single person on board sick from the constant use of salt food or vicissitude of climate. In the night between the 24th and 25th we passed Savage Island, which I had discovered in 1774,* and on the 28th I hauled up for Annamooka. The weather being squally, with rain, I anchored at the approach of night in fifteen fathoms deep water over a bottom of coral-sand and shells. • See page 281. I I 1 \ under side of the fingers of both hands. Others, who we^' ^,ot in the circle, came as it seemed on purpose, and paid him thii. i .ik of respect, and then retired without speaking a word. T wo i charmed with the decorum that was observed, and had nowhere seen the like, not even among more civilized nations. On Wednesday the 28th, Poulaho, the king, as T shall now call him, came on board betimes, and brought as a present to me one of their caps, or rather bonnets, coinvoscd of the tail feathers of the tropic-bird, with the red feat' ' i". .>i' the j)aro(iuets wrought upon them or jointly with them. T ■:- \ ire I'lade so as to tie upon the forehead, without any crown, and have the form of a semicircle whose radius is eighteen or twenty inches. The chief stayed on ^ ipvtl tii' the evening, when ho left us; liut his brother and one :>r t'svo ' .. \.i. attendants continued in the ship all night. 1777.] NARROW ESCAPE. 365 At daybreak the next morning I weighed with a fine breeze, and stood to the westward with a view to return to Annamooka. We were followed by several sailing canoes, in one of which was the king. He quitted us in a short time, but left his brother and five of his attendants on board. We had also the company of a chief just then arrived from Tongatabu, whose name was Too- boueitoa. The moment he arrived he sent his canoe away, and declared that he and five more who came with him would sleep on board, so that I had now my cabin filled with visitors. They brought plenty of provisions with them, for which they always had suitable returns. At daybreak on the 31st I stood for the channel which is between Kotoo and a reef of rocks ; but on drawing near, I found the wind too scant to lead us through. Toward night the wind blew fresh and by squalls, with rain, and we were not without apprehensions of danger. I kept the deck till midnight, when I left it to the master, with such directions as I thought would keep the ships clear of the shoals and rocks that lay around us. At one time the Resolution was very near running upon a low sandy isle surrounded with breakers. It happened, very fortunately, that the people had just been ordered upon the deck to put the ship about, and the most of them were at their stations, so that the necessary movements were not only executed with judgment, but also with alertness ; and this alone saved us from destruction. This circumstance frightened our passengers so much that they expressed a strong desire to get ashore. On the 5th we anchored at Annamooka, nearly in the same station which we had so lately occupied. About noon next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told us that several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which had sailed with liim from that island, had been lost owing to the late stormy weather, and tliat everybody on board perished. This melancholy talc did not seem to affect any of his countrymen that heard it; and as to ourselves, wo were by this time too well acquainted with his character to give much credit to such a story. The following morning, Poulaho and the other chiefs who had been wind-bound with him, arrived. I happened at this time to be ashore in company with Feenou, who now seemed to be sensible June. m 366 POULAHO'S COURT, [1777. of the impropriety of his conduct in assuming a character that did not belong to him ; for he not only acknowledged Poulaho to be king of Tongatabu and the other isles, but affected to insist much on it, which, no doubt, was with a view to make amends for his former presumption. I left him to visit this greater man, whom I found sitting with a few people before him ; but as every one hastened to pay court to him, the circle increased pretty fast. I was very desirous of observing Feenou's behaviour on tiiis occasion, and had the most convincing proof of his inferiority ; for he placed himself amongst the rest that sat before Poulaho as attendants on his majesty. He seemed at first rather abashed, but he soon recovered himself. Both he and Poulaho went on board with mo to dinner, but only the latter sat at table. Feenou, having made his obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign's foot with his head and hands, retired out of tlie cabin. The king had before told us that this would happen, and it now appeared that Feenou could not eat or drink in his royal presence. At eight o'clock next morning we steered for Tongataboo, Feenou was to have taken his passage in the Resolution^ but preferred his own canoe ; and put two men on board to conduct us to the best anchorage. By the direction of our pilots, we steered for the widest space between two isles which we were to pass, having our boats ahead employed in sounding. We Avere insensibly drawn upon a large flat, upon which lay innumerable coral rocks, at different depths below the surface of the water. Notwithstanding all our care and attention to keep the ship clear of them, we could not prevent her from striking on one of these rocks. But fortunately neither of the ships stuck fast nor received any damage. We could not get back without increasing the danger, as we had come in almost before the A'ind, nor could we cast anchor but with the certainty of having our cables instantly cut in two by the rocks. Wo iiad no other resource but to proceed. While we were plying up to the harbour to which the natives directed us, the king kept sailing round us in his canoe. There were, at the same time, a great many small canoes about the ships. Two of these, which could not get out of the way of hia royal 1777.] AN OLD FRIEND. 367 vessel, he ran quite over, with as little concern as if they had been bits of wood. Amongst many others who came on board the Resolution was Attago,* who had been so useful to me when I visited Tongatabu during my last voyage. He brought a hog and some yams as a testimony of his friendship, and I was not wanting on my part in raaking a suitable return. * See page 249. I I 1 1 ill 11 iliii! 1 1 l|i ■ \ [ i 1 1 CHAPTER XXXVIII. PRIEKDLT RECEPTION AT TONGATABU— ENTERTAINMENT GIVEN BY MABEEWAGEE — ECLIPSE OK THE SUN— ACCOUNT OF THE ISLAND— DEPARTURE FROSI TON- GATABU— ARRIVAL AT EOOA— ACCOUNT OF THAT ISLAND— ACCOUNT OF THE FRIENDLY ISLES. SOON after we had anchored I landed, accompanied by Oniai and some of the officers. We found the king waiting for us upon the beach. He immediately conducted us to a small neat house, situated a little within the skirts of the woods, with a fine large area before it. This house, he told me, was at my service during our stay at the island ; and a better situation we could not wish for. As I intended to make some stay at Tongatabu we pitched a tent, landed our horses, cattle, and sheep, and appointed a party to cut wood for fuel and planks for the ships. The gunners were ordered to remain upon the spot to conduct traffic with the natives, who thronged from every part of the island with hogs, yams, etc. In a short time our land post was like a fair, and the ships were so crowded with visitors that we had hardly room to sit upon the decks. Feenou had taken up his residence in our neighbourhood, but he was no longer the leading man. However, we still found him to be a person of consequence, and we had daily proofs of his opulence and liberality by the continuance of his valuable presents. We now heard that there were other great men of the island whom we had not yet seen. In particular they mentioned a person, con- siderably over sixty, named Mareewagee, superior even to Poulaho, to whom he was related. Being old, he lived in retirement, and therefore would not visit us. Some of the natives even hinted that lie was too great a man to confer that honour upon us. I was desirous of waiting upon Mareewagee, and accordingly set out I " 1777.] MAREEIVAGEE. 369 with Omai pretty early on the 12th. But wo couUl receive no satisfactory information ; and suspecting that the okl chief was purposely concealed from us, we went back to our boats, much piqued at our disappointment. About noon next day, I was informed that Mareewagee was in the neighbourhood. Accom- panied by Feenou, I landed to pay him a visit. We found not only Mareewagee, but another chief called Toobou. Both chiefs had a venerable appearance ; and we afterwards discovered they were brothers, and that Feenou was one of Mareewagee's sons. Both were men of great property in the island, and seemed to be in high estimation with the people, Mareewagee in particular having the honourable appellation given to him of father of Tonga, or of his country. The 17th was fixed upon by Mareewagee for giving a grand haiva, or entertainment, to which we were all invited. For this purpose a large space had been cleared before the temporary hut of the chief near our post, as an area where the performances were to be exhibited. In the morning great multitudes of the natives came in from the country, every one carrying upon his shoulders a pole about six feet long, with a yam suspended at each end. These yams and poles were deposited on each side of the area so as to form two large heaps, decorated with different sorts of small fisli, and piled up to the greatest advantage. They were Mareewagee's present to Captain Gierke and me, and it was hard to say whcthei the wood for fuel or the yams for food Avere of the most value to us. As for the fish, they might serve to please the sight, but were very offensive to the smell, po-rt of them having been kept two or three days to be presented to us on this occasion. Everything being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock they began to exhibit various dances which they call "mai." The music consisted, at first, of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down ; and amidst them were placed three instruments which we called drums, though very unlike them, and the natives "naffa." These instruments produce a rude though loud and powerful sound. The first dance consisted of four ranks of twenty-four men each, holding in their hands a little thin light wooden instrument about two feet long, and in shape not unlike a small oblong paddle. (.'^61) 24 'I 9' 1 '1 ■' !' ijil ■1 'i 1 li ' ■ 1 370 NATIVE DANCES. [1777. With these, which are called "pagge/'they made a great many different motions, all which were accompanied by corresponding attitudes of tho body. Their motions were at first slow, but quickened as the drums beat faster ; and tho whole time they recited sentences in a musical tone, which were answered by tho chorus. At the end of a short space they all joined, and finished with a shout. Then the rear rank, dividing, shifted themselves very slowly round each end, and meeting in the front, formed the first rank, the whole number continuing to recite the sentences as b'ifore. The other ranks did tho same successively, till that which at first was tho front became the rear ; and the evolution continued in the same manner, till the last rank regained its first situation. They then began a much quicker dance, though slow at first, and sung for about ten minutes, when the Avhole body divided into two parts, retreated a little, and then approached, forming a sort of circular figure, which finished the dance. In a short time seventy men sat down as a chorus to another dance. This consisted of two ranks, of sixteen persons each, with young Toobou at their head, who was richly ornamented with a garment covered with red feathers. These danced, sung, and twirled the "pagge" as before, b't in general much quicker. A motion that mot with particular approbation was one in which they held the faco aside, as if ashamed. Tho back rank closed before the front one, and that again resumed its place, as in the two former dances. At that instant two men entered very hastily, and exercised the clubs which they use in battle. They did this by first twirling them in their hands, and making circular strokes before them with great force and quickness, but so skilfully man- aged that, though standing quite clo.50, they never interfered. They shifted their clubs from hand to hand with great dexterity, and after continuing a little time, kneeled, tossing the clubs up in the air, which they caught as they fell. A person with a spear then came in the same hasty manner, looking about eagerly as if in search of somebody to throw it at. He then ran hastily to one side of the crowd in the front, and put himself in a threatening attitude, as if ho meant to strike with his spear at one of them, bending the knee a little, and trembling as it were with rage. ITe continued in this nianner only a few seconds, when he moved to ^i i 1777.] PRESENTS FOR THE CHIEFS. 371 the other side, and having stood in the same posture there for the same short time, retreated from the ground as fast as when he made his appearance. These dances, if they can properly be called so, lasted from eleven till near three o'clock j and though they wcro doubtless intended particularly either in honour of us or to show a specimen of their d(!xterity, vast numbers of their own people attended as spectators. On the evening of the 18th I assembled all the chiefs before our house, and my intended presents to them were marched out. To Poulaho, the king, T gave a young English bull and cow, to Mareewagee a Cape ram and two ewes, and to Feenou a horse and a mare. As most of the pcojjle in the neighbourhood were then present, 1 instructed Omai to tell them that there were no such animals within many months' sail of their island ; that we had brouglit them for their use from that immense distance at a vast trouble and expense ; that therefore they must be careful not to kill any of them till they had multiplied to a numerous race ; and lastly, that they and their children ought to remember that they had received them from the men of Britain. It soon appeared that some were dissatisfied with this allot- ment of our animals ; for early next morning one of our kids and two turkey cocks were missing, and it was not till four o'clock they were brought back. We still, however, had thieves about us, and, encouraged by the negligence of our people, we had continual instances of their depredations. Some of the officers belonging to both ships, who had made an excursion into the interior of the island without my leave 01 knowledge, returned this evening, after an absence of two days. They had taken with them their muskets, with the necessaiy ammunition, and several small articles of the favourite conmiodities, all of which the natives had the dexterity to steal from them in the course of their expedition. Feenou and Poulaho upon this occasion very justly observed that if any of my people at any time wanted to go into the country they ought to be acquainted with it, in which case they would send proper persons along with them, and then they would be answerable for their safety. Though I gave myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon this occasion, most of them, through Feenou's ii :» I! 37a INLAND EXPLORATIONS. [1777. interposition, were recovered, except one musket and a few other articles of inferior value. I had prolonged my stay at this island on account of the approaching eclipse. Having therefore some days of leisure before me, a party of us, accompanied by Poulaho, set out early next morning in a boat for Mooa, the village where he and the other groat men usually reside. As we rowed up the inlet we met fourteen canoes fishing in company, in one of which was Poulaho's son. In each canoe was a triangular net, (extended between two poles, at the lower end of which was a cod to receive and secure the fish. They had already caught some fine mullet, and they put about a dozen into our boat. I desired to see their method of fishing, which they readily complied with. A shoal of fish was supposed to be in one of the banks, which they instantly enclosed in a large net like a seine, or set-net. This the fishers, one getting into the water out of each boat, surrounded with the triangular nets in their hands, with which they .scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them as they attempted to leap over it. Leaving the prince and fishing i)arty, we proceeded to the bottom of the bay. Here we observed a fiatooka, or burying-place, which was much more extensive, and seemingly of more conse- quence, than any we had seen at the other islands. We were told that it belonged to the king. It consisted of three pretty large houses, situated upon a rising ground, with a small one at a dis- tance, all ranged longitudinally. The floors were covered and paved with fine pebbles, and the whole was enclosed by large flat stones of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges ; one of the stones measured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. Within one of these houses were two rude wooden busts of men. On inquiring what these images were intended for, we were told they were merely memorials of some chiefs who had been buried there, and not the representations of any deity. In one of them was a carved head of an Otaheitean canoe, which had been driven ashore on their coast and dejiosited here. After we had refreshed ourselves we made an excursion into the country, attended by one of the king's ministers. Our train was not great, as he would not suffer the rabble to follow us. Ho 1777.] ECLIPSE OF THE SUN. 373 also obliged all those whom we mot upon our progress to sit down till we had passed, which is a mark of respect duo only to their sovereigns. By far the greater part of the country was cultivated, and planted with various sorts of productions. There were many public and well-beaten roads, and abundance of footpaths leading to every part of the island. It is remarkable that when we were on the most elevated parts, at least a hundred feet above the level of the sea, we often met with the same coral rock which is found at the shore, and yet these very s|)ots, with hardly any soil upon them, were covered with luxuriant vegetation. We were con- ducted to several little pools and some springs, but in general they were either stinking or brackish. When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of a baked hog, some fish, and yams, all excellently well cooked after the method of these islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the custom of the country and lay down to sleep, our beds being mats spread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made himself very happy with some wine and brandy which we had brought, slept in the same house, as well as several otliers of the natives. In the morning of the 5th, the day of the eclipse, the weather was dark and cloudy, with showers of rain, so that we had little hopes of an observation. About nine o'clock the sun broke out at intervals for about half an hour, after which it was totally obscured, till within fi rji nute or two of the begin- ning of the eclipse. We were all at our telescopes, but I lost the observation by not having a dark glass at hand suitable to the clouds that were continually passing over the sun. The sun appeared at intervals till about the middle of the eclipse, after wJiich it was seen no more during the day, so that the end could not be observed. As soon as we knew the eclipse to be over we packed up the instruments, took down the observatories, and sent everything on board. As none of the sheep allotted to Mareewagee had been taken the least notice of, I ordered them to be carried back to the ships. I was apprehensive that if I had left them here they ran July. 374 PREPARATION FOR DEPARTURE. [1777. great risk of being destroyed by dogs. That auinial did not exist upcu this island when I first visited it in 1773, but I now found thpy had got a good many, partly from the breed then left by myself, and partly from some inqoorted since from an island not very remote, called Feejee. Preparing now for our departure, I got on board all the cattle, poultry, and other animals, except such as were destined to remain, and on the following day wo unmoored, that we might be ready to take advantage of the first favourable wind. The king, who was one of our company this day at dinner, took particular notice of the plates, which induced me to make him an offer of one, either of pewter or of earthenware. He cliose ' o first, and then began to tell us the several uses to which 1 ?nded to apply it, two being of so extraordinary a nature tha^ ..inot omit mentioning them. He said that whenevc he should have occasion to visit any of the other islands he wo aid leave tJiis plate behind him at Tongatabu as a sort of representative in his absence, that the people might pay it the same obeisance as they did to himself in person. He was asked what had been usually employed for that purpose before he got this plate, and wo had the satisfaction of learning from him that this singular lionour liad been hitherto conferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his hands. The other extraordinary use to which he meant lo apply tliis plate, in the place of the wooden bowl, was to discover a thief. He said that when anything was stolen, and the thief could not be found out, the people were all assembled together before him, when lie washed his hands in water in this vessel, after wliich it was cleaned, and then the whole multitude advanced one after another and touched it in the same manner that they touch his foot when they pay him obeisance. If the guilty person touched it he died im- mediately upon the spot, not by violence, but by the hand of Providence ; and if any one refused to touch it, his refusal was a clear proof that ho was the man. Being now on the eve of our departure from this island, I shall add some particulars about it and its productions. Amsterdam, Tongatabu, or Tonga, is about twenty leagues in circuit, and somewhat oblong. The general appearance of tlie country does not afford that beautiful kind of landscape that is 1777.1 ISLAND OF MIDDLEiniRGU. 375 July 6. produced from a variety of liills and valleys, lawns, rivulets, and cascades, but at the same time it conveys to tl.o spectator an idea of the most exuberant fertility. Of cultivated fruits the principal are plantains, of which they have fifteen different sorts, bi-ead- fruit, a kind of i)luni, and vast numbers of shaddocks. Besides vast numbers of cocoa-nut trees, they have three other sort of palms, two of which are very scarce. The only (luadrupeds, besides hogs, arc a few rats and some dogs. Amongst the birds are parrots, owls, cuckoos, kinglishers, and a bird of tlie thrush kind, which is the only singing one wo observed here, but it compensates a good deal for vlie wait of others by the atren^Lh and melody of its notes, which fdl the woods at dawii, iu the evening, and at the breaking up of bad weather. The sea abounds with iish. The most frequent sorts are mullets, several sorts of parrot tish, some beautifully spotted soles, eels, sharks, a sort of pike, and some curious devil fish. We were now ready to sail, but the wind being easterly, we were under a necessity of waiting two or three days. On the 10th, at eight o'clock iu the morning, we weighed anchor, and with a steady gale at SE. turned through the channel, and anchored on the 12th off Middleburgh, or Eooa, being nearly the same place where I liad my station in 1773, then named by me "English Road." Wo had no sooner anchored than Taoofa, the chief, and severa' other natives visited us on board, and seemed to rejoice much at our arrival. This Taoofa knew me when I was here during my last voyage, and 1 now went ashore with him in search of fresh water, which was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. I was first conducted to a brackish spring, between low and high water mark, in the cove where we landed. Finding that we did not like this, our friends took us a little inland, where, in a deep chasm, we found very good water ; but ratlier than under- take the tedious task of bringing it down to the shore, I resolved to rest content with the supply that the ships had got at Tonga- tabu. T put ashore the ram and the two ewes of the Cape of Good Hope breed, entrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed proud of his charge. As we lay at anchor thio island bore a very different aspect 376 STOCKING THE ISLAND. [1777. ,a-;. 1! ) 1 !' from any we had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful land- scape. It is higher than any we had passed since Isaving New Zealand, and from its top, which is almost Hat, declines very gently towards the sea. The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excursion to the highest part of the island, in order to have a full view of the country. On the most elevated part of the whole island we found a mound of earth, supported by a wall of coral stones, to bring which to such a height must have cost much labour. Our guides told us that this mound had been erected by order of their chief. Not many paces from it was a spring of excellent water. While I was surveying this delightful prospect, I could not help Hattering myself with the pleasing idea that some future navigator may, from the same station, behold these meadows stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by the ships of England ; and that the completion of this single benevolent pur- pose, independently of all other considerations, would sufficiently mark to posterity that our voyages had not been useless to the general interests of humanity. Our guides informed us that all or most of the laud oi\ this island belonged to the great chiefs of Tongatabu, and that the inhabitants were only tenants or vassals to them. Omai, who was a great favourite with Fecnou and these people in general, was tempted with the otter of being made chief of this island if he would have stayed amongst them. The next morning I planted a pineapple, and sowed the seeds of melons an.l other vegetables in the chief's plantation. I had some encouragement, indeed, to flatter myself that uiy endeavours of this kind would not be fruitless, for this day there was served up at my dinner a disli of turnips, being tin; produce of the seeds I had left during my last voyage. I had fixed on tli;: 15th for sailing, till Taoofa pressed mo to stay a day or two longer, to receive a present he had jirepared for me, consisting of two small heaps of yams and some fruit, which .seemed to be collected by a kind of contribution, as at the other isles. On the 17th wo weighed, and with a light breeze at SI'], stood out to sea. We thus took leave of the FricniUy Islands aft(!r a fiiay of nearly two months, during which time we lived with the natives iu the most cordial frieiidshi]). Some accidental dillerences, : 1777.] ACCOUNT OF THE FRIENDLY ISLES. 377 it is true, now and then happened, owing to their great propensity for thieving, which was too often encouraged by the negligence of our own people. The time employed amongst them was not thrown away. We expended very little of our sea provisions, subsisting in general upon the produce of the islands while we stayed, and carrying away with us a quantity of refreshments sufficient to last till we arrived at another station where we could depend upon a fresh supply. I was not sorry, besides, to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good people by leaving the useful animals before mentioned among them ; and at the same time those designed for Otaheite received fresh strength in the pastures of Tongatabu. Upon the whole, therefore, the advantages we received by touching here were very great, and I had the additional satisfaction to reflect that they were received without retarding one moment the prosecution of the great object of our voyage, the season for proceeding to the north being, as hap been already observed, lost before I took the resolution of bearing away for these islands. But besides the immediate advantages which buth the natives of the Friendly Islands and ourselves received by this visit, future navigators from Europe, if any such ever tread in our steps, will profit by the knowledge acquired of the geography of this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and the more philosophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new situations, will perhaps find matter of amusement, if not of instruction, in the information which I have been enabled to convey to him concerning the inhabitants of this archipelago. We found by nerience that the best articles for traffic at these islands are iron tools in general. Axes and hatchets, nails, rasps, files, and knives are much sought after. A string of large blue beads would purchase a liog. In return for the favourite commodities all the refreshments may be procured that the islands produce. These are hogs, fowls, fish, yams, bread-fruit, ])lantains, t.»coa-nuts, sugar-cane, and in general every suth sMiUjly as can be met with at Otaheite or any of the Society Isliinds. Oood water, which ships on long voyages stand so much in need of, is scarce at those islands. According to the information that we received there, this t ' : i ivB ^mi m n 378 HONESTY OF THE NATIVES. [1777. archipelago is very extensive. About one hundred and fifty islands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to ascertain their number. I have not the least doubt that Prince William's Islands, discovered and so named by Tasman, are included in the foregoing list The natives of the Friendly Islands seldom exceed the common stature, but are very strong and well made. They are generally broad about the shoulders, and though the muscular disposition of the men rather conveys the appearance of strength than of beauty, there are some to be seen who are really handsome. Their eyes and teeth are good. The general colour is a cast deeper than the copper brown, but several of the men and women have a tine olive complexion. Their countenances very remarkably express the abundant mildness or good nature which they possess, and are entirely free from that savage keenness which marks nations in a barbarous state. Their peaceable disposition is sufficiently evinced by the friendly reception all strangers have met with who have visited them. Perhaps no nation in the world traffic with more honesty and less distrust. The only defect sullying their character that we know of is a propensity to thieving, to which we found those of all ages and both sexes addicted, and to an uncommon degree. Great allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor natives of the Pacific Ocean, whose minds we overpowered with the glare of objects, equally new to them as they were capti- vating. Their hair is in general straight, thick, and strong. "When I first visited these islands I thought it had been a universal custom for both men and women to wear the hair short, but during our present stay we found they were so whimsical in their fashions of wearing it, that it is hard to toll which is most in vogue. Nothing appears to give them greater pleasure than personal cleanliness, to produce which they frequently bathe in the ponds, which seem to serve no other purpose. Their domestic life is of that middle kind, neither so laborious as to bo disagreeable, nor so vacant as to be indolent. The em- ployment of the women is of the easy kind ; they manufacture their cloth, their mats, combs, little baskets made from fibrous cocoa-nut husk and interwoven with small beads. The province ..i ■'■1 1777.] THEIR LANGUAGE, 2,n allotted to the men is agriculture, architecture, boat-building, and fishing. I think I may venture to assert that tliey do not worship any- thing that is the work of their own hands, or any visible part of the creation ; but that they offer real human sacrifices is with me beyond a doubt. The chiefs are, by the people, styled not only lords of the earth, but of the sun and sky. The language of the Friendly Islands has the greatest aflinity imaginable to that of New Zealand, of Wateeoo and Mangeea, and consequently to that of Otaheite and the Society Islands. CHAPTER XXXIX. ! ' 111 THE ISLAND TOOBOUAI DISCOVERED— ARUIVAL IN OHEJTEPEHA BAY AT OTAHEITE — OMAl'S UECEPTION — INTEUVIEW WITH OTOO, KINO Ot THE ISLAND — HUMAN SACniKICE— OTOO'S PRESENT TO THE KING Oil' GREAT BRITAIN- DEPARTURE FROM OTAHEITE. I N the evening of the 17th, the island of Eooa was distant some three or four leagues. The wind was July. August i at east, and blew a fresh gale. With it I stood to the south till half an hour past six o'clock the next morning, when a sudden squall took our ship aback, and before she could be trimmed on the other tack, the mainsail and the topgallant sails were much torn. Tlie night between the 20th and 21st an eclipse of the moon was observed. At eleven o'clock in the morning of the 8th, land was seen, which, as we drew nearer, we foand to be an island guarded by a reef of coral rock with a high surf breaking upon it. We saw several people on the coast running along shore, and after we had reached the lee side of the island we saw them launch two canoes. Omai was employed to use all his eloquence to prevail upon the men to come nearer, but no entreaties would induce them to trust themselves within our reach. They kept eagerly pointing to the shore with their paddles, and calling us to go thither. We could very well have done this, as there was good anchora{/e with- out the reef; but I did not think it proper to risk losii.g the advantage of a fair wind for the sake of examining an island that appeared to be of little consequence. After making several unsuc- cessful attempts to induce these people to come alongside, I made sail to the notth and left them, but not without getting from them the name of tlieir island, which they called Toobouai. At daybreak on the morning of the iL'th, we saw the island of Maiteu, and soon after Otuheite made its appearance. When we 1777.] OMAI'S RECEPTION AT OTAHEITE. 381 first drew near the island several canoes came off to the ship, each conducted by two or three men. But as they were common fellows Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. At length a chief, whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, and three or four more persons, all of whom knew Omai, came on board. There was nothing either tender or striking in their meeting. On the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifference on both sides, till Omai, having taken his brother-in-law down into the cabin, opened t)ie drawer where he kept his red feathers and gave him a few. This being presently known among the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely changed, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged that they might be friends, and exchanged names. Omai accepted the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. But it was evident to every one of us that it was not the man but his property they were in love with. Such was Omai's first reception among his countrymen. I own I never expected it would be otherwise, but still I was in hopes that the valuable cargo of presents with which the liber- ality of his friends in England had loaded him would be the means of raising him into consequence, and of making him respected by the first persons throughout the extent of the Society Islanda This would have happened had he conducted himself with any degree of prudence. But instead, I am sorry to say that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice of those who wished him well, and suffered himself to be duped by every designing knave. The important news of red feathers being on board our ships having been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to break next morning than we were surrounded by a multitude of canoes, crowded with people bringing hogs and fruit to market. At first a quantity of feathers not greater than what might be got from a tomtit would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight, but as almost everybody in the sliips was possessed of some of this precious article of trade, it fell in its value above five hundred per cent, before night. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board to see him. I was happy to observe that, much to the honour of them 38a ASSEMBLY OF THE SNIP'S CREW. [1777. 1, aii both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection, easier to be conceived than described. This moving scene liaving closed, and the ship being properly moored, Omai and I went on shore. My first object was to pay a visit to a man whom my friend represented as a very extraordinary personage indeed, for he said that he was the god of Bolabola We found him seated under one of those small awnings which they usually carry in their larger canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs, so that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-barrow. From Omai's account of this person I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to him. But I could observe nothing by which he might be distinguished from other chiefs. Omai presented to him a tuft of red feathers tied to the end of a small stick ; but after a little conversation on indiflfer- ent matters with this Bolabola man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plentifully with tears of joy. I left him with the old lady in the midst of a number of people who had gathered round him, and went to view p house said to be built by strangers since I was here before. When I returr.ed I found Omai liolding forth to a large company, and it was with some difficulty that he could be got away to accompany me on board, where I had an important affair to settle. As I knew that Otaheite and the neighbouring islands could furnish us with a plentiful supply of cocoa-nuts, I was desirous of prevailing upon my people to be content to be abridged, during our stay here, of their stated allowance of sj)irits to mix with water. But as tliis stopping of a favourite article without assigning some reason might have occasioned a general murmur, I thought it most prudent to assemble the ship's company, and to make known to t*ieni the intent of the voyage and the extent of our future opera- tions. To induce them to undertake which with cheerfulness and perseverance, I took notice of the rewards ofTered by Parliament to Buch of His Majesty's subjects as shiU first discover a communica- tion between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, in any direction whatever, in the northern hemisphere, and also to such as shall first penetrate beyond the eighty-ninth degree of northern latitude. I made no doubt, I told them, that I should find them willing to 1T77.] THE QUESTION OF GROG. 383 co-operate with me lu attempting, as far as might be possible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards, but that to give ua the best cliance of succeeding it would bo necessary to observe the utmost economy in the expenditui'o of our stores and provisions, as there was no probability of getting a supply anywhere after leaving these islands. I begged them to consider the various obstructions and difficulties we might still meet with, and the hardships they would labour under, if it should be found necessary to put them on short allowances in a cold climate. Tlierefore I submitted to them. Would they not consent to be without their grog now, when we had so excellent a liquid as that of cocoa-nut to substitute in its place ? — but I left the determination entirely to their own choice. I had the satisfaction to find that this pro- posal did not remain a single moment under consideration. Ac- cordingly we stopped serving grog, except on Saturday nights, when the companies of both ships had full .llowance of it that they might drink tlie licalths of their friciids ia England. The next day we began some necessary operations. The calkcrs were set to work to calk the ship, which she stood in great need of, having at times made much water on our passage from the Friendly Islands. I also put on shore the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed two men to look after them. During the two following days it hardly ceased raining, but the natives nevertheless came to us from every quarter, tlie news of our arrival having rapidly spread. On the 17th, Omai and I went on shore to pay a formal visit to a young chief named Waheiadooa, who had come down to the beach. On this occasion Oniai, assisted by some of his friends, dressed himself, ..ot after the English fashion, nor that of Otnhoite, nor that of Tongatabu, nor ill the d>-' iS of any country upon earth, but in a strange medley of all th.rt iie was possessed of. On our landing, Etary, or the god of Bolabola, carried on a hand-barrow, atterded us to a large house, where he was set down, and ve seated ourselves on each side of him. I caused a piece of Ton J bu cloth to be spread out before us, on which I laid the presents I intended to make. Presently the young chief came, attended Ijy his mother and sev 'al principal men, who all seated themselves at the other end of tuo cloth facing \is. Then a man 384 OTOO, THE KING. [1777. '% ' who sat by me made a speech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of which was dictated by those about him. He was answered by one from the opposite side near the cliief ; Etary spoke next, then Omai, botli of thorn being answered from the same quarter. These orations were entirely about my arrival and connections with them. The person who spoke last told me, among other things, that he was authorized to make a formal surrender of the province of Tiaraboo to me, and of everything in it, which marks very plainly that these people are no strangers to the policy of accommodating themselves to present circumstances. At length the young chief was directed by liis attendants to come and embrace me ; and, by way of confirming this treaty of friend- ship, we exchanged names. The ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me on board to dinner. Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all other necessary operations, on the 22nd I brought off the cattle and sheep, and made ready for sea. On the 23rd we got under sail, and steered for Matavai Bay, whore the Resolution anchored the same evening, the Discovery not arriving till the next day. About nine o'clock in the morning, Otoo, the king of the whole island, attended by a great number of canoes full of p(!ople, came from Oparre, his place of residence, and sent a message on board expressing his desire to see mo. Accordingly I landed, accom- panied by Omai and some of the officers. We found a prodigious number of people assembled on this occasion, and ii- the midst of them was the king, attended by his father, his two brothers, and three sisters. I went up first and saluted them, followed by Omai, who kneeled and e.nbraced his legs. Omai had prepared himself for this ceremony by dressing in liis very best suit of clothes, and behaved with a great deal of respect and modesty ; nevertheless, very little notice was taken of him. Perhaps envy had some share in producing this cold reception. He made the chief a present of a large bunch or red feathers and about two or three yards of gold cloth, and I gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, and, what was of more value than all the other articles, a quantity of red feathers and one of the bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands. After the hurry of this visit was over, the king and the whole 1777] RELIEVED OF A HEAVY BURDEN. 385 md the whole royal family accompanied me on hoard, followed by several canoes laden with all kinds of provisions, in quantity sufficient to liavo served the companies of both ships for a week. Soon after tho king's mother, who had not been present at the first interview, came on board, liringing with lier a quantity of provisions and cloth, whidi she divided between mo and Omai. For although he was but little noticed at first by his countrymen, they no sooner gained a knowledge of his riches than they began to court his friendship. I encouraged this as much as I could, for it was my wisli to leave him with Otoo. Ah I intended to land all my European animals at this island, I thought he would be able to give some instructions about the management of them and their use. Besides, I knew and saw that tlie farther he was from his native island the more he would be respected ; unfortunately, how- ever, poor Omai rejected my advice, and conducted himself in so imprudent a manner that ho soon lost the friendship of Otoo, and of every other person of note in Otaheite. As soon as we had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, taking with us tht^ poultry with which we were to stock the island. They consisted of a peacock and hen, a turkey cock and hen, one gander and three geese, a drake and four ducks. These I left at Oparre in the possession of Otoo, and the geese and ducks began to breed bciore we sailed. We found there a gander, which the natives told us was the same that Captain Wallis had given to Oberea ten years before, several goats, and the Spanish bull, which they kept tied to a tree near Otoo's house. I never saw a finer animal of this kind. He was now the property of Etary, and had been brought from Oheitepeha to this place in order to be shipped for Bolabola. But it passes my comprehension how thjy can contrive to carry him "n one of their canoes. Next day I put ashore three cows, a horse ami mare, and sheep. Having thus disposed of these passengers, I found myself light- ened of a very heavy burden. The trouble and vexation that attended tho bringing this living cargo thus far is hardly to be conceived ; but the satisfaction I felt in having been so fortunate as to fulfil His Majesty's humane de.sign, in sending such valuabh animals to supply the wants of two worthy nations, sufiiciently recompensed me for the many anxious hours I had passed before (wi) 25 386 OLD FRIENDS. [1777. i I = -l'. .. ■i K ' this subordinate object of my voyage could be carried into execu- tion. As I intended to make some stay hero, we set up tlie two observatories on Matavai Point. Adjoining to them two tents were pitched, for the reception of a guard and of such people as it might be necessary to leave on shore in different departments. I entrusted the command to Mr. King, who at the same time attended the observations for ascertaining the correctness of the timekeeper, and other purposea On the 26tli, I had a piece of ground cleared for a garden, and planted in it sevoii*! articles. Some melons, potatoes, and two pine-apple plants were in a fair way of succeeding before we left the place. I had brought from the Friendly Islands several shaddock trees, which I also planted here ; and they can hardly fail of success, unless their growth should be checked by the same premature curiosity which destroyed a vine planted by the & "moral," and bury leir skulls ly expresH- Otoo and letestation Omai was arguments 'eat wrath, to death in from being ! maeno ! " 3 fireworks ^ere highly ;er number that it was (ther to see It flew off ; ; even the ^ by a suc- amusement >no down to ilk (1 a play. py appeared had usually ve returned miily, and I liief himself tahooroo, to ;he chief of •ai." ng this most 3 next day, erke and I, !Matavai, to tho very great surprise of a great train of people, who attended on tho occasion, gazing upon us with as much astonishment as if we had been centaurs; Omai, indeed, had once or twice before this attempted to got on horseback, but ho had been as cften thrown ofi' before he could contrive to seat himself, so that this was tho first time they had seen anybody rido a horse. Though this per- formance was repeated every day while we stayed, by one or other of our people, the curiosity of the natives continued still unabated. They were exceedingly delighted with these animals, after they had seen the use that was made of them ; and, as far as I could judge, they conveyed to them a better idea of the greatness of other nations than all other European novelties put together. On the morning of the 18th, Mr. Anderson, myself, and Omai, went again with Otoo to Oi)arre, and took with us the sheep which I intended to leave upon the island, consisting of an English ram and ewe and three Cape ewes, all of which I gave to Otoo. After dining with Otoo we returned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparre. This day, and also the 19th, we were very sparingly supplied with fruit. Otoo hearing of this, he and his brother, who had attached himself to Captain Gierke, came from Oparre between nine and ton o'clock in the evening, with a large supply for both ships. The next day all the royal family came with presents, so that our wants were not only relieved, but wo had more provisions than we could consume. Having got all our water on board, the ships being calked, the rigging overhauled, and everything put in order, I began to think of leaving the island that I might have sufficient time for visiting the others in this neighbourhood. With this view we removed from the shore our observatories and instruments and bent our sails. Early in the morning of the 22nd, Otoo and his father came on board to know when I proposed sailing ; for, having been informed that there was a good harbour at Eimeo, I told them that I should visit that island on my way to Huaheine, and they were desirous of taking a passage with me, and of their fleet sail- ing at the same time to reinforce Towha. As I was ready to take my departure, I left it to them to name the day, and the Wednes- day following was fixed upon, when I was to take on board Otoo, ,; ii I'M 'I : I'll Ii ; t'i ^: M '! 390 /4 Cl//i£ FOR RHEUMATISM. [1777. his father, mother, and, in short, the whole family. These points being settled, I proposed setting out immediately for Oparre, where all the fleet fitted out for the expedition was to assemble that day, and to be reviewed. I had just time to get into my boat when news was brought that Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, and returned with his flecit to Attahooroo. This unexpected event made all further proceedings in a military way quite unnecessary ; and the war canoes, instead of rendezvousing at Oparre, were ordered home to their respective districts. I now returned on board my ship, attended by Otoo's mother, his three sisters, and eight more women. At first I thought this numerous train of females came into my boat with no other intention than to get a ])assage to Matavai ; but when wo arrived at the sliij^ they told me that they intended to pass the night on board for the express pui-pose of undertaking the cure of a disorder I had complained of, which was a pain of the rheumatic kind. 1 accepted the friendly oH'er, had a b<;d spread for them on the cabin floor, and submitted niy.s(>If to their directions. TJiey began to squeeze me with both hands from head to foot, but jiarticularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my flesh became a pi'rfect nunnmy. In short, after undergoing this discipline for about a quarter of an hour, 1 was glad to get away from them. However, the operation gave mo immediate relief, which encouraged mo to submit to another rubbing down before I went to bed ; and it was so efl'ectual that I found myself pretty easy all the night after. My female physicians reiMtated their prescription the next nioriiiiig before they went a.shore, and again in the 26th; and as they knew that wo were on the point of sailing, brouglit with them more hogs than wo could tako oir their hands ; for, having no salt left to preserve any, we wanted uo more than for present use. 1777.] OTOO'S PRESENT. 391 The next day 1 accompanied Otoo to Oparre ; and before I left it I looked at the cattle and poultry. E\erything was in a promising way, and properly attended unto. Two of the geeso and two of the ducks were sitting. On the 28th, Otoo came on board and informed me that he had got a canoe, which he desired I would take with me, and carry home as a present from him to the " Earee rahie no Pretane" (His Majesty the King of Great Britain) ; it being the only thing, ho said, that he could send worth his acceptance. I was not a little pleased with Otoo for this mark of his gratitude. It was a thouglit entirely his own, not one of us having given him the least hint about it, and it showed that he fully understood to whom he was indebted for the most valuable j)resents he had received. As it was too large for me to take on board, I could only thank him for his good intention ; but it would have pleased him much better if his present could have been accepted. We were detained here some days longer than I expected by light breezes from the west At length, at three o'clock in the evening of the 29th, the wind came east, and we weighed anciior. As soon as the ships were under sail, at the request of Otoo and to gratify the curiosity of iiis people, I tiretl seven guns loaded with shot, after which all our friends, except him and two or tliree more, left us witli such marks of aftection and grief as suf- ficiently showed how much they regretted our departure. If I could have prevailed upon Omai to lix liiniself at Otaheite, I should not have left it so soon as I did. For there was not a probaliility of our being better or clieaper supplied with refresh- ments at any other place. Besides such a cordial friendship and confidence subsisted between us and the inhabitants, as could hardly bo expected anywhere else ; and tliis friendly intercourse had never once been suspended by any untoward accident i; 1 ! i ri'ii I M 19 II f i ' CHAFrER XL. AKRIVAL AT KIMEO— AHIUVAL AT HUAHEINE—COUNCIL OF CHIEFS— OMAl's KSTAB- LISHMENT IX THE ISLAND AfiUEEI) TO— A HOUSE BUILT FOU HIM— AlUUVAL AT ULIETEA— AIIRIVAL AT BOLADOLA. 17T7. AST did not give up my design of touching at Eiineo, September. ^^ at daybreak on the morning of the 30th, after leaving Otaheite, I stood for the north end of the island. We had no sooner anchored than the ships were crowded with the inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board, for they had nothing with them for the purpose of barter ; Init the next morning several canoes arrived from more distant parts, bringing with them al)undance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. Tliese tliey exchanged for hatchets, nails, and beads ; for red feathers were not so much sought for here as at Otaheite. In the morning of the '2nd of October, Maheine, the chief of the island, paiil me a visit. lie approached the ship with great caution, and it required some persuasion to get him on board. This chief, who, with a few followers, had made liimself independ- ent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is bald- headed, which is ratlier uncommon in these islands at that age, and wore a kind of turban, as he seemed ashamed to show his head. In the evening, Omai and I mounted on horseback and took a ride along tlie sliore to the eastward. On the Gth, we pri'jiared to put to soa, but an accident happened that prevented it and gave me a good deal of trouble. We had sent our goats ashore to graze, with two men to look after them ; but, notwith- standing this precaution, the natives hud contrived to steal one of them in the evening. Tlie loss of this goat would have been of little com e(]uence if it had not interfered with my views of stock- ing other islaiuls with these animals ; but this being the case, it It > i 1777.] FKOM ElMEO TO HUAHEINE. 393 became necessary to recover it if possible. Tlie next nioniing wo got intelligence that it had been carried to the chief. Accordingly I dispatched a threatening message to Mahcine, and the goat was returned next morning. At Einieo we abundantly supplied the sliips with firewood. We had not taken any in at Otaheite, there not being a tree at Matavai but what is useful to the inhabitants. We also got hero good store of refreshments, both in hogs and vegetables, that is, bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, little else being in season. I do not know that there is any difference between the produce of this island and of Otaheite ; but there is a very striking difference in their women, that I can by no means account for. Those of Eimeo are of low stature, have a dark hue, and, in general, for- bidding features. If we met with a fine woman among them, wo were sure to find, upon intjuiry, that she had come from some other island. The general appearance of Einieo is very different from that of Otaheite. The latter, rising in one steep hilly body, has little low land, except some deep valleys ; Einieo, on the contrary, has hills running in different directions, which are very steep and rugged. Having left Eimeo with fine weather at daybreak on the 1 2th, wo saw lluaheine the next morning, and at noon we anchored at the north entrance of Owharre harbour. While I was at Otaheite, 1 had learned that my old friend Oree was no longer the chief of lluaheine, and that at this time he resided at Ulietea. His two sons, Ojioony and Towha, were the first who paid me a visit, coming on board before the ship was well in the harbour, and bringing a present with them. Our arrival brought all the ])rincipal people to our ships, which •was what I wished, as it was high time to think of settling Omai, and the presence of these chiefs, I thought, would enable me to do it in the most .satisfactory manner. Ho now seemed to have an inclination to establish himself at Ulietea ; and if lie and I could have agreed about the mode of bringing that ])lan to bear, T should have had no objection to it. But it was impossible to fix hiin at Ulietea, and lluaheine seemed the proper place. I there- fore resolved to avail myself of the presence of the chief men of the island and to make tiiis proposal to them. 394 KECEPTION AT HUAHEINE. [1777. t I- After the hurry of the morning was over, we got ready to pay a formal visit to Taircetareea, the sovereign, moaning then to introduce this business. Omai dressed himself very properly on this occasion, and prepared a handsome present for the chief him- self, and another for his Eatooa; indeed, after he got clear of \\w gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, he behaved with such prudence as to gain respect. Wo waited some time for Tairce- tareea, but when he appeared, I found that his pres(!nce niight have been dispensed with, as lie was not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who stood at a little distance from this circle of great men, began with making his offerings to the gods, consisting of red feathers, cloth, etc. Each article was laid before one of the company, who, I understood, was a priest, and delivered with a set speech or prayer, spoken by one of Oniai's friends who sat by him, but mostly dictated by himself. In these ])rayers he did not forgot his friends in England, nor those who had brought him safe back ; the " Earco rahic no Pretane," Lord Sandwich, Toote, and Tatee (Cook and Gierke), were mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's olFerings and prayers were finished, the priest took each article, in tlie same order in which it had been laid before him, and, after repeating a ])rayer, sent it to the " morai," which as Omai told us was at a great distance, otherwise tliti otVerings would have been made there. These religious ceremonies having been performed, On)ai sat down by mo and we entered upon businesa Omai's establishment was then proposed to the assembled chiefs; lie acquainted them " that ho had been carried by us into our Country, where ho was well received by the great king and his Earees, and treated with every mark of regard and affection while he stayed amongst us ; that he had been Itrought back again, en- riched by our liberality with a number of articles, which would prove very useful to his countrymen j and that, liesides the two lior&es, which were to remain with him, several new and valuable animals had Ixjen left at Otaheite, which would soon multiply, and furnish a sufficient number fcjr tlie use of all tlie islands in the neighbourhood. He tlien signitied to tliem that it was my earnest request, in return for all my friendly ofHces, that thoy would give him a piece of land to build a house upon, and to raise proviisions i \ 1777.] PLAGUE OF COCKROACHES. 395 for himself and servants ; adding that, if this could not be obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by purchase, I was deter- mined to carry him to Ulietea, and iix him then;." One of the chiefs immediately expressed himself to this effect ; "That the whole island of Huaheine, and everything in it, were mine, and that therefore I might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend." Omai was greatly pleased to hear this ; thinking, no doubt, that I should be very liberal, and give him enouj^li. But to offer what it would have been improper to accept, I con- sidered as offering nothing at all, and therefore I now desired that they would not only assign the particular spot, bat also the exact quantity of land which they would allot for the settlement. After a short consultation among themselves my request was granted, and tlie ground innnediately pitched upon, adjoining to the house where our meeting was held. The extent along the shore of the harbour was about two hundi'cd yards, and its depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat more, but a proportional part of the hill was included in the grant. This business being settled to the satisfaction of all parties, I set up a tent ashore, estalilished a post, and erected the o1)serva- tories. The carpenters of both ships were also set to work to build a small house for Omai, in which he might secure the European commodities that were his property. At the same time some hands were employed in making a ganlen for his use, planting shaddocks, vines, pine-apples, melons, and otlicr vegetable articles ; oil of which I had the satisfaction of observing to be iu a flourish- ing state before I left the island. While we lay in this harbour, wo carried ashore the bread remaining iu the bread-room, to clear it of vermin. The number of cockroaches that infested the shij) at this time is incredible. The damage they did us was very considen.ble, and every method devised by us to destroy them proved ineffectual. These animals, which at first were a nuisance, had now become a real pest, and so destructive that few things were free from their ravages, if footl of any kind was exposed only for a few minutes it was covered with them, and they soon pierced it full of holes, resembling a honeycomb. They were jmrticularly de- structive to birds wo hud stuffed and preserved as curiosities. hi. 3 ' V\ M ml 111 iL, i; i.ii ■■ ft 396 FRIENDLY INTERCOURSE. [1777. and, what was worse, they were uncommonly fond of ii.k, so that the writing on the hibels was quite eaten out. According to Mr. Anderson's observations, they were of two sorts, the Blatta ori- entcUis and germanica. The first of these liad been carried homo in the ship from her former voyage, where they withstood the severity of the hard winter in 1766, though she was in dock all the time. The others had only made their appearance since our leaving New Zealand, but had increased so fast that when a sail was loosened thousands of them fell upon the decks. The ori- entalis, though in infinite numbers, scarcely came out but in the night, when they made everything in the cabin seem as if in motion, from the particular noise in crawling about. The intercourse of trade and friendly offices was carried on between us and the natives, without being disturbed by any one accident, till the evening of the 22nd, when a man found means to get into Mr. Bayley's observatory, and to carry off the sextant unobserved. As soon as I was made acquainted with this, I went ashore, and got Oniai to npply to the chiefs to ])rocure restitution. He did so, but they took no st<'ps towards it, being more attentive to a lu^eva that was then acting, till I ordered the performers of the exhibition to desist. They were now convinced that I was in earnest, and began to make some inquiry after the thief, who was sitting in the lidst of them, quite unconcerned, insomuch that I was in great doubt of his being the guilty person, especially as he denied it. Oniai, however, assuring me that he was the man, 1 sent him on board the ship and there confined him. This raised a general ferment an)ong8t the assembled natives, and the whole body fled, in spit*! of all n)y endeavours to stop them. Having employed Omai to examine the prisoner, with some difficulty he was brought to confess where ho had hid the sextant ; but, as it was now dark, we could not find it till daylight the next morning, when it was brought back uninjured. After this, the natives recovered fronj their fright, and began to gather about us as usual, and as to the thief, he appearing to be a hardened scoundrel, T punished hiiti more s«'verely than T had ever done any one culprit before. R'sides having his head and beard shaved, I ordered l>oth his ears to be cut off and then disnussed him. This, however, did not deter him, for in the night of the 24th, a general alarm was X777.] O.lfA/'S HOUSE. 397 spread, occasioned, as was said, by one of our goats being stolen by this very man. On examination, we found t'liat all was safe in that quarter ; probably the goats were so well guarded that he could not put his design into execution, but it appeared that he had destroyed and carried ofl' several vines and cabbage plants in Omai's grounds, and he publicly threatened to kill him and to burn his house as soon as we should leave the island. To prevent the fellow's doing me and Oniai any more mischief, I had him seized and confined again on board the ship, with a view of carry- ing him off the island ; and it seemed to give general satisfaction to the chiefs that I meant thus to dispose of him. Omai's house being nearly finished, many of liis movables were carried ashore on the 2Gth. Amongst a variety of other useless articles was a box of toys, which, when exposed to public view, seemed greatly to please the gazing multitude. But as to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking mugs, glasses, and the whole train of our domestic accommodation, hardly any one of his countrymen would so much as look at them. Omai himself now began to think that they were of no manner of use to him ; that a baked hog was more savoury food than a boiled one ; that a plantain-leaf made as good a dish or plate as pewter ; and that a cocoa-nut shell was as convenient a goblet as a black jack, and therefore he very wisely disposed of as many of these articles of Engli.sh furniture for the kitchen and pantry as he could find pur- cha.sers for amongst the jipoplo of the ships, receiving from them in return hatchets and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the M'orld, and added more to his distinguish- ing superiority over those with whom he was to pass the remainder of his days. In the long list of the presents bestowed upon him in England, fireworks had not been forgot. Some of these we exhibited in the evening of the 28th before a great concourse of people, who beheld them with a mixture of pleasure and fear. As soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, I l>egan to think of leaving fhe island, and got everything off from the shore this evening, exce[)t the horse and mare, which were left in the possession of our friend, with whom we were now finally to part. I also gavn him a boar and two sows of the English breed, and ho 398 FAREWELL TO OMAL [1777. had pot a sow or two of his own. After he had got on shore everytl)ing that belonged to him and was settled in his house, he had most of the officers of both ships two or three times to dinner, and his table was always well supplied with the very best provi- sions that the island proclucecl Before I sailed I had the following inscription cut upon the outside of his house : — i.> 1^ i':i i - ■■ GeorgiuH Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris 1777. ( Resolution, Jac. < , 1 Discovery, Car. Gierke, I'r. Naves ■^ ^(^^olution, Jac. Cook, Vr. On the 2nd of November, at four in the afternoon, I took advantage of a breeze which then sprung up at east, and sailed out of the harbour. Most of our friends remained on board till the ships were under sail, when, to gratify their curiosity, 1 ordered five guns to be fired. They then took thoir leave, except Omai, who remained till we were at aea ; an hour or two later he went ashore, taking a very affectionate farewell of all the officers. He sustained himself with a manly re.solution till he came to me ; then his utmost efForts to conceal his tears failed, and ]\lr. King, who went in the boat, told me that he wept all the time in going ashore. Omai's return, and the substantial proofs he brought back with him of our liberality, encouraged many to offer themselves as volunteers to attend me to Pretfine. I took every opportunity of expressing my determination to reject all such applications. If there had been the most distar.t probability of any ship being again sent to New Zealand, I would have brought home with me two youths of that country, who were very desirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the elder, was an exceedingly well-disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and capable of receiving any instruction. ITo seemed to l)o fully sensible of the inferiority of his own country to those islands and resigned himself, though perhaps with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty in Huaheine. But the other was so strongly attfiched to us that he was taken out of the ship and carried ashore by force. He was a witty, smart boy, and on that account much noticed on boanl. But notwithstanding this, Omai, who was very ambitious of remaining the only great traveller, frequently reminded me that [1777. 1777.] OREO'S VISIT. 399 on shore 1 house, he to dinner, jest provi- , upon the yn, I took and sailed board till ', 1 ordered Bcpt Omai, er lie went ficers. He nie ; then King, who )ing ashore. )ught back themselves tpportunity pplications. ship being (ie with me continuing pU-disposed )f receiving " inferiority self, though d plenty in us that ho p. Ife was d on boanl. rnbitiouB of ed me that Lord Sandwich had told him no others of his countrymen were to come to England. On the return of the boat which carried Omai ashore, never to join us again, I immediately stootl over for Ulietea, where 1 intended to touch next. At ten o'clock at night we brought to, till four the next morning, when we made sail round the south end of the island for tha harbour of Ohamaneno. We met with calms and light airs of wind from different directions by turns, so that at noon we were still a league from the entrance of the harbour. While we were thus detained, my old friend Oreo, chief of the island, with his son, and Pootoe, his son-in-law, came off to visit us. Being resolved to make for the harbour, I ordered all the boats to be hoisted out, and sent them ahead to tow, but we were obliged to come to an anchor at its entrance at two o'clock, and to warp in, which employed us till night set in. As soon as we were within the harbour the ships were surrounded with canoes filled with people, who brought hogs and fruit to barter with us for our commodities. Next morninc;, being the 4th, I moored the ship, head and stern, close to the north shore at the head of the harbour, hauled up the cables on deck, and opened one of tlio ballast ports. From this a slight stage was made to the land, about twenty feet distant, with a view to get clear of some of the rats that continued to infest ua While this work wa.s going forward I returned Oreo's visit The present I made him on the occasion consisted of a linen gown, a shirt, a red-feathered cap from Tongatabu, and other things of less value. I then brought him and some friends on board to dinner. On the Gth we set up the observatories, and got the necessary instruments on shore. Nothing worthy of note happened till the night of the 12th, when John Harrison, a marine, who was sentinel at tlie observatory, deserte«d, carrying with him his musket and accoutrements. Hav- ing in the morning got intelligence which way he had moved off, a party was sent after him, but they returned in the evening, after an ineffectual inquiry and search. The next day T applied to the chief to interest himself in the matter. He promised to send a party of his men after him, but I had reason to suspect that no steps had been taken by him. We had at this time a great number ! '■ 400 A DESERTER PUNISHED, [1777. I .' I of natives about tho ships, and some thefts were committed ; dreading the consequences, very few visitors came near us tho next morning. The chief himself with his wliolc family fled. I thought this a good opportunity to oblige them to deliver up the desei-ter, and having heard that he was at a place called Ifamoa, on the other side of the island, I went thither with two arpied boats, accompanied by one of the natives and the chief. I Unded about a mile and a lialf from tho place, with a few people, and marched briskly up to it, lest the sight of the boats should give tho alarm and allow tho man time to escape to tho mountains. Rut this precaution was unnecessary, for tho natives there hao messengers were sent back to Hualieine with tiie axes and two kid& On the morning of the 24th, T was informed that a mid- shipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were missing. Soon after, we learned from the natives that they went away in a canoe the preceding evening, and were at this time at the other end of tho island. As the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire to remain at these islands, it seemed 1 1777.] TJVO MORE DESERTERS. 401 >ver\j, were pretty certain that Iio and iiia companion had gone ofT witli tliis intention; and Captain Cicrko set out in (uest of them with two armed boats and a party of marines. His expedition proved fruitless, for ho returned in tho evening witliont having got any certain intelligence where tlwy were. From the condiict of tho natives, Captain Clerke seemed to think that they intended to conceal the desert rs, and with that view Jiad given him false information the wliolo day, which turned out to be correct, for the next morning we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. As these two were not tho only persons in the ships who wished to end their days at these favourite islands, in order to put a stop to any further desertion, it was necessary to get them back at all hazards ; and that tho natives might be convinced that I was in earnest, T resolve began to have apprehensions as to his own situation, and his looks expressed (Mil) 20 J ,— 402 STEPS TAKEN EOR THEIR RECOVERY. \\m. \K V ^ the utmost perturbation of mind. But I soon nrntln liini easy OS to this, by tolling him tlmt he was at lilierty to leave the ship whenever ho pleased, anne place. The consequrnce, however, of the prisoners was so great, that the natives did not think proper to trust to the return of our people for tlieir release ; or at least their impatience was so great, that it hurried them to metlitate an attempt which n>ight have involved tliem in still greater dis- tress, had it not been fortunately prevented. Between five and six o'clock in the oven.ng I observed that all tlieir canoes, in 1777.] OFFTCRRS SKI /.ED UV AAT/VES. 403 and aliout tlio harbour, hogan to inovfi oil", ah if kohh^ snddt'ii ))anic had soizod tliom. 1 was ashoro, ahrcast of tho Khip at tlio time, and inquiriMl in vain to (ind out tlio ciiu.sc, till our pcoph* called to us from tho Discovrri/, and told us that a party of tho natives had seized Captain Clorkn and Mr. Goro, who had walk(Ml out a littlo way from tho shi|)s. Struck with tho holdnoss of this plan of retaliation, which seemed to counteract mo so oflbctually in my own way, tluTo was no time to dcliherato ; I instantly ordered the people to arm, and in less than five minutes a strong paity, under the connnand of Mr. Kinp, was sent to rescue our two gentlemen. At tho sanu! time two armed hoats, and a jiarty under Mr. Williamson, went after the flying canoes, to cut ofl' their retreat to tho shore. These several detachments were hardly out of sight before an account arrived that we l.ad been misinformed, upon which I sent and called them all in. It was evident, however, from several corroborating cir- cumstances, that the design of seizing Captain Clerko had really been in agitation among.-,t tho natives. Nay, they made no secret in speaking of it the next day ; but their first and great plan of opcratio, svas to have laid hold of me. It was my custom, every evening, to bathe in the fresh water. Very often I \\ent alone, and always without arms. Expecting me to go as usual this evening, they had determined to seize me, and Captain Gierke, too, if he had accompanied me ; but I had, after confining Oreo's family, thought it prudent to avoid putting myself in their power, and had cautioned Captain Clerko and the oflicers not to go far from tho ships. In the course of tho afternoon the chief asked nie three several times if I would not go to the bathing-place, and when he found, at last, that I could not be prevailed upon to do HO, lie went ofT, with tho rest of his people, in spite of all that I could do or say to stop him. Jiut as I had no suspicion at this time of their design, I imagined that some sudden fright had seized them, which would, as usual, soon be over. Finding themselves disappointed as to me, they fixed on those who were more in their power. It was fortunate for all parties that they did not succeed, and not less fortunate that no mischief was done on the occasion. For not a musket was fired, except two or three to stop the canoes. To that firing, perhajjs, Messrs. '<: m 404 SQUALLS FROM THE SOUTH. [1777. Clorko and Gore owed their safety, for, at that very instant a party of the natives, armed with olul)s, were advancing,' towards them, and on hearing the reports of the muskets they dispersed. On the 27th our ohservatories were taken down, and everything we had asliore carried on board; the moorings cf (ho ship wero cast ofF, and we transported tliem a little way down tlie harbour, where they were brought to an anchor again. Towards the afternoon, the natixes began to siiake otF their fears, gathering round and on bonrd the ships as usual, and the awkward trans- actions of the day before seemed to bo forgotten on lx)th sidea The following night the wind blew in hard squa.ls from south to east, attended with heavy showers of rain. In one of the squalls, the cable by v;hieh the Jiesolutiun was riding. ])arted just beyond the hawse. We had another ready to let go, so that the ship was presently brought up again. In the afternoon, tho wind became moderat<', and we hooked the end of the best small bowor cable, and got it again into the hawse. Oreo, the chief, being uneasy as well as myself that no account had been received from Bolabola, set out this evening for that island, and desired me to follow him the next day with the sh ps. This was my intention, i>ut tlie wind would not admit of our getting to sea, though tlu; saiie win i not entirely lost, green plantains being an excellent substitute for bread, as they will keej) for a fortnight or three weeks. The inhal)itants of L'lietea seemed sniailer and blacker than those of the neighbouring islands, and ap))eared also less orderly. Oreo, their chief, is oidy a sort of deputy of the sovereign of that island. Ulietea, though now reduced to this humiliating state, was formerly, wo were told, the most important of this cluster of islands, and probably the first seat of govenunent, for they say that the pr(>seut royal family of (Jtaheite is dt.-scended from that which reigned here before the late revolution. Ooroo, the dethroned monarch of Ulietea, was still alive when we were at Huaheine, where he resides, jireserving all the ensigns which they appropriate to majesty, though he has lost his dominions. As soon as we got clear of the harl>our, we took our leave of Ulietea, and steered for Bolabola. The chief, if not the sole object r had in view in visiting that island, was to procure from its monarch, 0|)oony, one of the anchors which Monsieur do Dougainville had lost at Otaheite. This, having afterwards been taken up by the natives there, had, as they informed me, been sent by them as a present to that chief. My desire to get posses- sion of it did not arista from our b(!ing in want of anchors, but, liaving expended all tli«' hatchets and other iron tools which wo had brought from Kngland in purchasing fresh provisions, wo were now rc«liiced to the necessity of cn^atiiig a fresh assort- ment of trading articles by fabricating them out of the spare iron we had on board ; and in such conversions, and in tho occasional uses of the ships, gr< at part of that liad bi-eii ali'f-ady expended. I thought that M. de llougainville's a? jhor would supply our want of this useful nmterial, and T n)ade no doubt that r should be able to tempt Opoony to part with it. Oreo, and six or eight men from l'lietea, took a passage witli us to Molabola ; indeed, most of the natives, excejit the chief himself, would have gladly taken a passage with u.s to England. At sunset, being near the south point of Bolabola, we shortenetl bail, and spent the night making short boards. At daybreak ! ! I '' r 3 i i 406 OPOON K'.V DBS TINA C Y. [1777. on the 8th we made twil for tlic harbour, which is on the west side of the island ; but tlie tide and wind being against us, I gave up tlie design (»f carrying tlii»- ships into the harbour ; and luiving ordered the boats to be got ready, I embarkart of the shank and two palms, were wanting, f was no longer at a loss to guess the rea.son of Opoony's refusing my present. Having thus completed my negotiation, 1 returned on board, and having hauled in the boats, made .sail from the island to the north. While th(! boats were hoisting in, some of th(^ natives came off in three or four canoes to see the ship, as they said. Tli;^y brought with them a few cocoa-nuts and one pig, which was the only one we got at the ishuul. I make no doubt, however, that if we had stayed till the next day, we shoulil have been plentifully supplied with provisions. Hut as we had already a very gooil stock, both of hogs and of fruit, (tn board, and very little of anything h'ft to purchase more, I eouM have no inducement to defer any longer the prosecution of our voyage. mm\ w i- H777. the west IS, I gave tid luiving of them, rowed iu m after I concourse necBHsary le anchor, stinff of a kin;^' j^laSB, it of these the cause ent till T n the mark k and two 1 guess the ; completed lied in the fes came off loy brouuht he only one t if we had lly supplied stock, both lything left • any longer Q # CHAPTER XLI. PRO0HES8 OK TIIK VOVAOB AtTER LKAVINO THE 80CIKTY ISLANDS— CUniHTMAS ISLAND niHCOVEHED— ACCOUNT OK THE ISLAND— UIMCOVKUY OK THE SAND- WICH ISLANDS— SOME ACCOUNT OK ATOOI. AFTER leaving Bolabola, I steered to the northward, 1777. close-hauled, wi;h the wind betw(;en. north-east and Dsa east, hardly ever liaving it to the southward of cast till alter we had crossed the line, and had got into north latitudes. Though, seventeen months had now elapsed since our departure from England, during which we had not, upon the whole, been unprolitably enii>l()yed, I was sensibh; that, with regard to the principal object of my instructions, our voyage was at this time only beginning ; and therefore my att«;ntion to every ciroumstanco that might contribute towards our safety and our ultimate success was now to be called forth anew. With this view 1 lind examined into the state of our provisions at the last islands ; and as soon as I had lift them, and got beyond the extent of my former dis- cuvorios, I ordered u survey to bo taken of all the boatswani'a and carpenter's stoi'es that were in the ships, that I might bo fully j'nforujed of the iiuiiitity, state, and condition of every article, and liy that nums know how to use them to the greatest advantuu'c. In the night of the 2'2iu\, we crossed the line in the longitude of 2W 15' K, and on the 24th, about half an hour after day- break, land was discovered bearing north cast. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be on(! of tiiose low islands so common in this ocean-- that is, a narrow l)ank of laiitl enclossing tiie sea vithin. A few cocoa-nut treos were seen in two or three places, but in general the land happed n,nclior iu thirty fathonn, a boat d to H i^ > ^^m I ■ I 408 ECLIPSE OF THE SUN. 11777. cxaniino whetlier it was piacticablc? to land, of which I had soinu doubt, as the sea broke in a (h'oadful surf all along the shore. When the boat retuinod, the ollicer whom I had entru.sti'd with this exaiuination reported to uie tliat ho could see no place where a boat »!0uld land, but that there was a gr<;ut abundance of lish in the shoal water without the breakers. At daybreak the next morning I sent two boats, one from each ship, to search more accurately for a landing-place, and at the same time two othc;rs to fish near the shore. These last returned about eight o'clock with upwards of two liundredweiglit of (ish. En( oura,;4td by this success, they were dispatched again after breakfast, and I tiien went in another boat to take a view of the coast and attempt Innding, which, Jiowever, 1 found to be wholly impracticalJe. Towards noon the two boats sent on tho same search return(;d. The master reported to me that about a league and !i half to tho north w;is a creek in tht^ land and a channel into the "lagoon;" conse(iuenily, the Khijis weighed anchor and came to in twenty fathonis water, befoic a small island that lies at the entrance of the lag(/on. On the "JSih I hinded, in tnmpuny with Mr. Bayley, to pre- |)are the telcscDpcs for oljMrsing an approaching eclipse of the sun, which was one t^niat inducement to my anchoring hero. On the morning of the 30th, the day when the eclipse was to happen, Viv. King, Mr. Bayley, nnd myself went a.shore on tlur small inland abo\e mentioned, to attend the observation. The .sky was overcast till ] -ist nine o'clock, when the clouds ai-*^'** the sun disper.sed long enough to take its altitude to rwtify the time by the watch we made use of. After this, it was again obscured till about thirty minutes past nin*-, and th^'n we found that the eclipse; had Iiegun. We nuw iixcfl the micrometers to the telescopes, and ol)served or measured the uneclipsed j)art of the sun's disc. At these observations I continued about three- (juarters of an liour before tli.' end. when F left oil", being, in fact, unable to continue tlwm any longer, on account of the great heat of the sun, increased by the reflection from the sand. In the afternoon, the boats and tiirtlim: party at the south- oaiit part of the iHlnnd all returned on boanl, exivpt a seaman belonging to tho It'iHCOvery, who had In^n missing two days. I 1777.] A SEA, 'if AX MISSING. 409 Tliero were two of thoiu at tiist wlio had lost tlu-ir way, but dis- agriuting about the most proLublt? track (0 bring tlvjiu back to their companions, they had .separatrd ; one of the.n joined tho party after liaving lu-en absent twenty-four hours and \wv.n in great distri'ssa. Not a drop of fresh water could be had, for there is none upon the whoh) ishmd, nor was there a single cocoa-nut tree on that part of it. In order to allay his thirst he had recourse to a singular expedient of killing turtles and drinking their blood. His mode of refreshing himself when weary, of which he said l»o felt the good etTects, was e(|ually whimsical : he undi*essed himself and lay down for some tinui in the shallow water ujion the beach. It was a matter of surj)rise to every one how these men could contrive to lose themselves. The land over which they had to travel, from tho sea-coast to tlie lagoon, where thf l)oa<.s lay, was not moie than three miles across, nor was there anything to obstruct their view, for tln' country was flat, with a few shrubs scattered upon it, and from many pai-ts of it the masts of t)jo vessels could ea.sily be seen. As soon as Captain Ch rke knew that one of tlic stmgglers was still in this awkward situation, he sent a party in search of him ; but neither the man nor the party having come back tho next morning, I ordtned '^wo boats into the lagoon, txtends but a little way from the shore. On tht! 2nd of .'anuary, at daybreak, we weighed anchor and resumed our course to the north. At daybreak in the ujorning of the 18tli, an island made it^ appearance,* and soon after we saw more land l)earing north, and entinly tlitaelird from the former, both had the appearance of l)eing hinh land. We were in some doubt wheth(!r or no the island was inhabited; but this doubt was soon cleared U|i by seeing some oanoes out tlitH jl (iW front o bix men \(H.\ in iiiul hw inlaudM .til our, and i(> of thcni ny srvcriil y plucu uo 1778.J DISHONESTY OF AAIIl'ES. 411 much astoiiishod oh tlies(» people wvw upon entering a ship. Theii- eyes were continually flying from object to object, the wihlness of their looks and gestures fully expressing tlieir entire ignorance about everything they saw, and strongly marking to us that till now they had never been visited by Europeans, nor been ac(|uainted with any of our commodities. When we shewed them some bca'ls they asked first what they were, and then whether they should cat them. At first, on their entering the ship, they endeavoured to steal everything they came near, or rather to take it opeidy as what wo either should not resent or hinder ; but wo soon convinced them of their mistake. At nine o'clock, being pretty near the shore, 1 sent three armed boats, under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, to look for a landing-place and for fresh water. I ordered him that, if he should find it necessary to land iji search of the latter, ho was not to sutler more tluin uxw. man to go with him out of the boats. Just as they were pulling oil' fror-.i the ship one of the natives, having stolen the butclu^r's cleaver, leaped overboard, and got into his canoe, the boats pursuing him in vain. While the boats were occupied in examining the coast we stood on and ofl' with the rliips, waiting for their return. About noon Mr. Williamson came back, and reported that he had seen a largo pond behind a beach, near one of the viUages, which the natives told him contained fresh water, and that there was anchor- ing ground before it. lie also ntported that he had attttnipted to laud in another jdace, but was preventtnl by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in great numbers, attempted to tnko away the oars, nuiskets, and in short everything tliat they could lay liold of, ami pressed so thick upon him that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. This unhappy circumstance T did not know till after we had left the island, so that all my measures were directed as if nothing of the kind had happened. Mr. W^illiamson told me that after the man fell, his countrymen took him up, carried him oH* and then retired from the boat, but still made signals for our people to land, which \w declined. The ships being stationed, between throe and four o'clock I went ashore with three armed boats and twelve marines, to exauj- 4" TRADING U'lTIf NATIVES. [1778. ine the water, and to try the dinpoHitiuu of the inhabitantH, several hundreds of whom were assembled on a snndy beach before the villages, behind which was a narrow valley, the bottom of which was occupied by the piece of water. The very instant I leaped on shore the natives all fell Hat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble posture till, by expressive signs, I prevailed upon them to rise. They then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to me, with plantain trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen practised on such occasions at the Hociety and othfir islands, a long prayer being also spoken by a single person, in which others of the assembly sometimes joined. I e.\pressed my acceptance of their proU'ered friendship by giving tlufui in return such jiresents as I had brought with me from the ship for that ))urpose. Wlien this introductory business was lV ^ *> 4> % ... 'O n of every ! [ ad always enough in k to amuse lulling out iinodiately iocting the : thcr. But reluctance, ^ 3 force. daily, and every now and then we saw new faces. On their first coming they generally went through a singular mode of introducing them- selves. They would paddle with all their strength quite round both ships, a chief, or other principal person in the canoe, standing up with a spear or some other weapon in his hand, and speaking or hallooing all the time. Sometimes the orator of the canoe would have his face covered with a mask, representing either a human visage or that of some animal, and instead of a weapon would hold a rattle in his hand, as before described. After making this circuit round the ships, they would come alongside and begin to trade without further ceremony. Very often, indeed, they would first give us a song, in which all in the canoes joined with a very pleasing harmony. During these visits they gave us no other trouble than to guard against their thievish tricks. In the morning of the 4th we had a serious alarm. Our party on shore, who were employed in cutting wood and getting water, observed that the natives all around them were arming themselves in the best manner they could, those who were not possessed of proper weapons preparing sticks and collect- ing stones. On hearing this I thought it prudent to arm also, but, being determined to act upon the defensive, I ordered our workmen to retreat to the rock upon which wo had placed our observatories, leaving the natives in quiet possession of the ground. Our fears were ill-grounded. These hostile preparations were not directed against us, but against a body of their own countrymen, who were coming to light them ; and our friends of the sound, on observing our apprehensions, used their best endeavours to convince us that this was the case. We could see that they had people looking out on each point of the cove, and canoes frequently passed between them and the main body assembled near the ships. At length the adverse party, in about a dozen large canoes, appeared off the south point of the cove, when they stojjped, and lay drawn up in a line of battle, a neg-^tiation having commenced. Some people in canoes, in conducting the treaty, ])aKsed between the two parties, and there was some si)eaking on both sides. At length the differ- once, whatever it was, seemed to be compromised, but the strangers were not allowed to come alongside the ships, nor to have any trade or intercourse with us. 428 VIOLENT SQUALLS. [1778. From the time of our putting into the sound till now the weather had been exceedingly tine, without either wind or rain, but on the morning of the 8th, the wind fi-eshened at south-east, attended with thick hazy weather and rain ; and, according to the old proverb, misfortunes seldom come singly. The mizzen was now the only mast on board the Resolution that remained rigged, with its topmast up. The former was so defective that it could not support the latter during the violence of the squalls, but gave way at the head under the rigging. About eight o'clock the gale abated, but the rain continued, with very little intermission, for several days ; and that the carpenters might be enabled to proceed in their labours while it prevailed, a tent was erected over the fore- mast, where they could work with some degree of convenience. The oad weather which now came on did not, however, hinder the natives fron: visiting us daily ; and they frequently brought us a tolerable supply of fish — either sardines, or what resembled them much, a small kind of bream, and sometimes small cod. In the afternoon of the next day I went into the woods with a party of our men, and cut down a tree for a mizzenmast, which on the day following was brought to the place where the carpenters were employed upon the foremast. In the evening the wind in- creased to a very hard gale, with rain, which continued till eight o'clock the next morning, when it abated. The foremast being by this time finished, we hauled it alongside, but the bad weather prevented our fitting it in till the afternoon. We set about rigging it with the greatest expedition, while the carpenters were going on with the mizzenmast on shore. They had made very considerable progress in it on the 16th, when they discovered that it was sprung, or wounded, owing probably to some accident in cutting it down, so that all their labour was thrown away, and it became necessary to get another tree out of the woods, which employed all hands above half a day. During these various operations several of the natives, who were about the ship, looked on with an expressive silent surprise, which we did not expect *rom their general indiflc'rence and inattention. On the 18th, a party of strangers, in six or eight canoes, came into the cove, where they remained looking at us for some time, and then retired without coming alongside either ship. We sup- 1778.] HOSPITALITY. 429 posed that our old friends, who were more numerous at this time about us than these new visitors, would not permit them to have any intercourse with us. After a fortnight's bad weather, the 19th proving a fair day, we availed ourselves of it to get up the topmasts and yards, and to fix the rigging. Having now finished most of our heavy work, I set out tlie next morning to take a view of the sound. I first went to the west point, where I found a large village, and before it a very snug harbour, in which was from four to nine fathoms of water over a bottom of fine sand. The people of this village, who were numerous, and to most of whom I was well known, received me very courteously, every one pressing me to go into his house, or rather his apartment, for several families live under the same roof. I did not decline the invitations ; and my hc-pitable friends whom I visited spread a mat for me to sit lown ui)on, and showed me every other mark of civility. In most of the houses were women at work, making dresses of the plant or bark before men- tioned, which they executed exactly in the same manner that the New Zealanders manufacture their cloth. Others were occupied in opening sardines, a large quantity of which I had seen brought on shore from canoes, and divided, by measure, amongst several people, who carried them up to their houses, where the operation of curing by smoke-drying is performed. They hang them on small rods, at first about a foot from the fire ; afterwards they remove them higher and higher, to make room for others, till the rods on which the fish hang reach the top of the house. When they are completely dried they are taken down and packed close in bales, which they cover with mats. Thus they are kept till wanted, and are not a disagreeable article of food. Cod and other large fish are also cured in the same manner by them, though they sometimes dry them in the open air without fire. From this place I crossed over to the other or east side of the sound, and found, what I had before conjectured, that the land under which the ships lay was an Island, and that there were many smaller ones lying scattered in the sound, on the west side of it. Opposite the north end of our large island, upon the mainland, I observed a village, and there I landed. Tlie inhabitants of it were not so polite as those of the other I had just visited, especially one 43° TRAFFIC WITH STRANGERS. [1778. surly chief, who would not let me enter their houses, following me wherever I went ; and several times, by expressive signs, marking his impatience that I should be gone. I attempted in vain to soothe him by presents, but thougli he did not refuse them, they did not alter his behaviour. Some of the young women, better pleased with us than our inhospitable chief, dressed themselves expeditiously in their best apparel, and assembling in a body, welcomed us to their village by joining in a song, which was far from harsh or disagreeable. The day being now far spent, I proceeded to the ships, and on my arrival was informed tiiat, while I was absent, the ships had been visited by some strangers in two or three large canoes, who, by signs, made our people to understand that they came from the south-east, beyond the bay. They brought several skins, garments, and other articles, which they bartered ; but what was most sin- gular, two silver tablespoons were purchased from them, which, from their peculiar shape, were judged to be of Spanish manufacture. One of these strangers ^voro them round his neck, by way of orna- ment These visitors also appeared to be more plentifully supplied with iron than the inhabitants of the sound. On the 22nd, about eight o'clock, we were visited by a number of strangers in twelve or fourteen canoes. They drew up in a body about two or three hundred yards from the ships. At first we thought that they were afraid to come nearer ; but we were mis- taken in this. On advancing toward the shiiis they all stood up in their canoes and began to sing. Some of the songs, in which the whole body joined, were in a slow, and others in quicker time, and they accompanied their notes with the most regular motions of their hands, or beating in concert with their ]iaddles on the sides of the canoes, and making other very expressive gestures. At the end of each song they remained silent a few seconds, and then began again, and at length, after entertaining us with this specimen of their music, which we listened to with admiration for above half an ' our, they came alongside the ships, and bartered what they had to dispose of. Some of our old friends of the sound were now found to be amongst them ; and they took the whole manage- ment of the traffic between us and the strangers, much to the advantage of the latter. 1778.] GENEROSITY OF A CHIEF. 431 When T was at the village at the west point of the sound, I had observed that plenty of grass grew near it ; and it was neces- sary to lay in a quantity of this as food for the few goats and sheep which were still left on board. I ordered some of my people to begin their operatioji of cutting. I had not the least imagina- tion that tlio natives could make any objection to our furnishing ourselves with what seemed to be of no use to them, but was necessary for us. However, I was mistaken ■ for the moment that our men began to cut, some of the inho'jitants interposed and would not permit them to proceed, saying they must first buy it. I bargained with them for it, and finally they permitted us to cut wherever we pleased, and carry away as much as we chose. Everything being now ready, at noon of the 26tli we cast off the moorings, and with our boats towed the ships out of the cove. After this we had variable light airs and calms till four in the afternoon, when a breeze sprung up northerly with very thick, hazy weather. The mercury in the barometer fell unusually low, and wf had every other forerunner of an approaching storm, which we h: I reason to expect would be from the southward. T'ns made me hesitate a little, as night was at hjind, whether I should venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But my anxious impatience to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of losing this opportunity of getting out of the sound, making a greater impression on my mind than aiy apprehension of immediate danger, I determined to put to sea at all events. Our friends the natives attended us till we were almost out of the sound, some on board the ships, and others in their canoes. One of the chiefs, Avho had some time before attached himself to me, was among the last who left us. Having bestowed upon liim a small present, I received in return a beaver skin of much greater value. This called upon me to make some addition to my present, which pleased him so much that he insisted upon my acceptance of the beaver-skin cloak which he then wore, and of which he was particularly fond. Struck with this instance of generosity, and desirous that he should be no sufferer by his friendship to me, .1 presented to him a new broadsword with a brass hilt, the posses- sion of which made him completely happy. On my arrival in this inlet, I had Jionoured it with the name 43a KING GEORGE'S SOUND. [1770. of King George's Sound, but I afterwards found that it is called Nootka by the natives. The climate, so far as we had any experi- ence of it, is inthiitely milder than that on the east coast of America under the same parallel of latitude. The mercury in the thermometer never, even in the night, fell lower than 42" ; and very often, in the day, it rose to 60°. No such thing as frost was perceived in any of the low ground ; on the contrary, vegetation had made a considerable progress, for I met with grass that was already above a foot long. The trees, chiefly Canadian pine and white cypress, grow with great vigour, and are all of a large size. There is little variety of other vegetable productions. About the verge of the woods we found strawberry plants, some raspberry, currant, and gooseberry bushes, which were all in a most flourish- ing state. We also found some wild rose bushes, a great quantity of young leeks, and some watercrcsses. As excursions inland were never attempted, the account of the quadrupeds is taken from the skins which the natives brought to sell Of these the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. Hogs, dogs, and goats have not as yet found their way to this place. The sea animals seen off the coast were whales, por- poises, and seals. Birds in general are not only rare as to the different species, but very scarce as to numbers. Those which fre- quent the woods are crows and ravens, a bluish jay or magpie, common wrens (which are the only singing birds that we heard), the Canadian thrush, and a considerable number of brown efigles. The persons of the natives are in general under the common stature ; the visage of most of them is round and full, and some- times also broad, with high, prominent cheeks. The forehead rather low, the eyes small and black, the mouth round, with thick- ish lips. The hair of the head is in great abundance, very coarse and strong, and without a single exception black, straight and lank, or hanging down over the shoulders. Their colour we could never positively determine, as their bodies were incrusted with paint and dirt ; though when these were well rubbed off, the white- ness of the skin appeared almost to equal that of Europeans. Their common dress is a flaxen garment or mantle, ornamented on the upper edge by a narrow strip of fur, and at the lower edge by fringes or tassels. It passes under the left arm, and is tied it is called MAN OF NOOTKA GOUND. /■>','■ JiJ ■WBiiFl'tniT^. Si^fili/^i^l^^f ^P^"^ ■ ^^ WOMAN OF NOOTKA SOUNO. /■.'A''- /.y. ^lVM'!i 1778.] ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVES. 433 over the riyht sliouldor by a string before and one iKihind near its middle, by which moans botli arms are left free; and it hangs evenly, covering tlio left side, but leaving the right open, unless when the mantle is fastened by a girdle of coarse matting or wool round the waist, which is often done. Over this, which reaches below the knees, is worn a small cloak of the same substance, likewise fringed at the lower part. In shape this resembles a round dish- cover, being quite close, except in the middle, where there is a hole just large enough to admit the head ; and then, resting upon the shoulders, it covers the arms to the elbows, and the body as far as the waist. Their head is covered with a cap, of the figure of a truncated cone, or like a flower-pot, made of tine matting, having the top frequently ornamented with a round or pointed knob, or bunch of leathern tassels ; and there is a string that passes under the chin, to prevent its blowing off. Besides the above dress, which is common to both sexes, the men frequently throw over their other garments the skin of a bear, wolf, or sea-otter, with the hair outward, and tie it as a cloak near the upper part, wearing it sometimes before and sometimes behind. In rainy weather they throw a coarse mat about their shoulders. They have also woollen garments, which, however, are little in use. The hair is commonly worn hanging down loose ; but some, when they have no cap, tie it in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their dress, upon the whole, is convenient, and would not be inelegant were it kept clean. But as they rub their bodies constantly over with a red paint, mixed with oil, their garments by this means contract a rancid, offensive smell and a greasy nastiness, so that they make a very wretched, dirty appearance. Though their bodies are always covered with red paint, their faces are often stained with a black, a lighter red, or a white colour. The last of these gives them a ghastly, disgusting aspect. The ears of many of tliem are perforated in the lobe, where they make a pretty large hole, and two others higher up on the outer edge. In these holes they hang bits of bone, quills tixed upon a leathern thong, small shells, bunches of woollen tassels, or pieces of thin copper, which our beads could never supplant. The septum of the nose on many is also perforated, through which they draw a piece of soft cord ; and some wear at the same place (661) 28 ■t! , '- . ! i'ur ; ; :■■ m nothing more tlian the trunks of very large trees, four or five feet high, set up singly or by pairs, at the upper end of the apartment, with the front carved into a human face, and the arms and hands cut out upon the sides, and variously painted, so that the whole is a truly monstrous figure. The general name of these images is Klumma, and the names of two particular ones, which stood abreast of each other, three or four feet asunder in one of the houses, w ere Natchkoa and Matseeta. A mat, by way of curtain, for the most part hung before them, which the ncrtives were not willing at all times to remove, and when they did unveil them, they seemed to speak of them in a very mysterious manner. Naturally we thought they were representatives of their gods, or symbols of some religious or superstitious object, and yet we had proofs of the little estimation they were held in, for with a small quantity of iron or brass I could have purchased all the gods (if their images were such) in the place. I did not see one that was not offered to me, and I actually got two or three of the very smallest sort. The chief employment of the men seems to be that of fishing and killing land or sea animals for the sustenance of their families, for we saw few of them doing anything in the hoiises ; whereas the women were occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, and in preparing the sardines for drying. The wonjen are also sent in the small canoes to gather mussels and other shell- fish, and they manage these with as much dexterity as the men. Their weapons are bows and arrows, slings, spears, short truncheons of bone, something like the patoo-patoo of New Zealand, and a small pickaxe, not unlike the common American tomahavk. The spear has generally a long point made of bone ; some of the arrows are ])ointed with iron, but most commonly the.se points were of indented bone. The tomahawk is a stone, six or eight inches long, pointed at one end, and the other end fixed into a handle of wood. This handle ros'^mblcs the head and neck of the human figure, and the stone is fixed in the mouth, so as to represent an enormously large tongue. To make the resemblance still stronger, human hair is also fixed to it. They have aiiocl.nr stone weapon, nine inches or a foot long, with a square point. From the number of these and other weapons we 1778.] THFIR IMPLEMENTS. 437 might almost conclude that it is their custom to engage in closfe fight ; ar'l we had, too, convincing proofs that their wars were both frequent and bloody, from the vast number of human skulls ■which they brought to sell. Their canoes are of a simple structure, but to appearance well calculated for every useful parpose. Even the largest, which carry twenty people ^r more, are formed of one tree. Many of them are forty feot long, seven broad, and three deep. From the middle, towards each end, they become gradually narrower, the after-part or stern ending abruptly or perpendicularly, with a small knob on the top ; but the fore-part is lengthened out, stretching forward and upward, ending in a notched point or prow considerably higher than the sides of the canoe, which run nearly in a straight line. For the most part they are without any ornament ; but some have a little carving, and are decorated by setting seals' teeth on the surface like studs, as is the practice on their masks and weapons. They have no seats, but only several round sticks, little thicker than a cane, placed across at mid- depth. They are very light, and their breadth and flatness enable them to swim firmly, without an outrigger — a remarkable distinc- tion between the craft of all the American nations and that of the Southern Pacific Ocean. Their paddles are small and light, the shape in some measure resembling that of a large leaf, pointed at the bottom, broadest in the middle, and gradually losing itself in the shaft ; the whole being about five feet long. Their implements for fishing and hunting, which are both ingeniously contrived and well made, are nets, hooks, lines, har- poons, and an instrument like an oar. This last is about twenty foet long, four or five inches broad, and about half an inch thick. I'jach edge, for about two-thirds of its length — the other third being its handle — is set with sharp bone teeth about two inches long. Herrings and sardines, and such other small fish as come in shoals, are attacked with this instrument, which is struck into the shoal, and the fish are caught either upon or between the teeth. Their hooks are made of bone and wood, and r:?ther inartificially ; but the harpoon with whicli they strike the whales and lesser sea animals shows much contrivance. It is composed of a piece of bone, cut into two barbs, in which is fixed the oval H 438 THEIR FEARLESSNESS. [1778. blade of a larje mussel-shell, having the point of the instrument, to which is fastened about two or three fathoms of rope. To throw this harpoou they use a shaft of about twelve or fifteen feet long, to which the harpoon is fixed, so as to separate from the shaft and leave it floating on the water as a buoy when the animal darts away with the harpoon. They sometimes decoy animals by covering themselves with a skin^ and running about on all-fours, which they do very nimbly, as appeared from the specimens of their skill which they exhibited to us, making a kind of noise or neighing at the same time ; and on these occasions the masks, or carved heads, as well as the real dried heads of the different animals, are put on. As to the materials of which they make their various articles, it is to be observed that everything of the rope kind is formed cither from thongs of skins and sinews of animals, or from the same flaxen substance of which their mantles arc manufactured. The sinews often appeared to be of such a length that it might be presumed they could be of no other animal than the whale ; and the same may be said of the bones of which they made their weapons, already mentiontl, such as their bark-beating instruments, the points of their sp.ars, and barbs of their harpoons. They expressed no marks of surprise at seeing our ships ; nor were they even startled at the report of a musket, till one day, upon their endeavouring to make us sensible that their arrows and spears could nr , penetrate the hida-dressos, one of our gentlemen shot a musket-ball through one of them, folded six times. At this they were so much staggered that they plainly discovered their ignorance of the effect of firearms. ^ ■-, CHAPTER XLIIT. THE SHIPS LEAVE NOOTKA SOUND— TRANSACTIONS IN PRINCE WILLIAM's SOUND — PHOGKESS ALONG THE COAST— DISCOVERY OP COOK's RIVER. HAVING put to sea, on the evening of the 26th, 1778. Avith strong signs of an approaching storm, these ^P™* signs did not deceive us. We were hardly out of the sound before the wind suddenly shifted, and increased to a strong gale, with squalls and rain, and so dark a sky that we could not see the length of the ship. Being apprehensive, from the experience I had since our arrival on this coast, of the wind veering more to the south, which would put us in danger of a lee-shore, we got the tacks on board, and stretched oft' to the south-west under all the sail the ships would bear. At daylight the next morning we were quite clear of the coast, and the Discovery being at some distance astern, I brought to till she came up, and then bore away, steering north-west, in which direction I supposed the coast to lie. At half-past one in the afternoon it blew a perfect hurri- cane ; so that I judged it highly dangerous to run any longer before it, and therefore brought the ships to, with their heads to the southward, under the foresails and mizzen-staysails. At this time the Resolution sprung a leak, which at first alarmed us not a little, as from the l)read-room we could both hear and see the water rush in, and, as we then thought, it was two feet under water. But in this we wore happily mistaken, for it was after- wards found to be even with the wator-lino, if not above it, when the ship was upright. It was no sooner discovered than the lish- room was found to be full of water, and the casks in it afloat, but this wa, in a great measure owing to the water not finding its ways to the pumps through the coals that lay in the bottom of the room. For, after the water was baled out, which employed us 44° OFF BEHRING'S BA V. [1778. ill May. Lxii midnight, and had found its way directly from the leaks to the pumps, it appeared that one pump kept it under, which gave us no small satisfaction. In the evening the wind veei-ed to the south, and its fury in some degree ceased ; on this we set the mainsail and two topsails, close-reefed, and stretched to the west- ward. But at eleven o'clock the gale again increased, and obliged us to take in the topsails till five o'clock the next morning, when the storm began to abate, so that we could bear to set them again. At seven in the evening of the 1st, being in the lati- tude of 55° 20', we got sight of the land. Between eleven and twelve o'clock we passed a group of small islands off the south point of a large bay. An arm of this bay seemed to extend in toward the north, behind a round elevated mountain that lies between it and the sea. This mountain I called Mount Edge- cumbe. At half an hour past four in the morning of the 3rd we passed a very high peaked mountain, which obtained the name of Mount Fair Weather. This mountain is the highest of a chain of mountains wholly covered with snow, from the highest summit down to the sea-coast. At five in the afternoon the summit of an elevated mountain appeared above the horizon. We supposed it to be Behring's Mouiit St. Elias, and it stands by that name in our chart. There was also the appearance of a bay, which I shall distinguish by the name of Behring's Bay, in honour of its discoverer. On the 10th, we were no more than three leagues from the coast of the continent, which extended as far as the eye could reach. To the westward of this last direction was an island that extended from north to south, distant six leagues. A point shoots out from the main toward the north-east end of the island, about five or six leagues distant ; this point I named Cape Suckling. On the 11th, I bore up for the island. At ten o'clock in the morning I went in a boat and landed upon it, with a view of seeing what lay on the other side, but finding it farther to the hills than I expected, and the way being steep and woody, I was obliged to drop the design. At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, I left a bottle with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names of the ships and tiie date of our discovery ; and along with it I enclosed two silver twopenny pieces of His 1778.] WEIGHING ANCHOR. 441 Majesty's coin of the date of 1772. These, with many others, were furnished me by the Rev. Dr. Kaye (now Dean of Lincoln), and as a mark of my esteem and regard for that gentleman, I named the island after liim, Kaye's Island. It is eleven or twelve leagues in lengtli, but its breadth is not above a league and a half in any part of it. On this island there are a considerable number of pines, and the whole seems covered with a broad girdle of wood. On the NW. side of Kaye's Island lies another island ; and the bay between this island and the coast is distinguished by the name of Comptroller's Bay. From Comptroller's Bay to a point I named Cape Hinchingbroke, the direction of the coast is nearly east and west. Beyond this it seemed to feline to the southward, a direc- tion so contrary to the modern charts founded upon the late Russian discoveries, that we had reason to expect we should find a passage to the north by the inlet before us. Add to this, that the wind was now at SE., and we were threatened with a fog and a storm, and I wanted to get into ^ome place to stop the leak before we encountered another gale. These reasons induced me to steer for the inlet, which we had no sooner reached than the weather became so foggy that we could not see a mile before us. We continued to sail about the bay, for I had thought of laying the ship ashore, if a convenient place could be found where we might begin our operations to stop the leak. For this purpose I sent a boat to sound the head of the bay. Just as we were goinf to weigh the anchor to proceed farther up the bay, it began to bio tv and to rain as hard as before. To- ward > ening, finding the gale did not moderate, and that it might be some time before an 023portunity offered to get higher up, I came to a resolution to heel the ship where we were, and with this view moored her. In lieaving the anchor out of the boat, one of the seamen, either through ignorance or carelessness, or both, was carried overboard by the buoy-rope, and followed the anchor to the bottom. It is remarkable that in this very critical situation he had presence of mind to disengage himself, and come up to the surface of the water, where he was taken up with one of his legs fractured in a dangerous manner. Fjarly next morning we gave the ship a good heel to port, in 442 STOPPING THE LEAK. L1778. order to come at and stop the leak. On ripping off the sheathing, we found the leak to be in one of the seams. While the carpenters were making good these defects, we filled all our empty water-casks at a stream hard by the ship. In the evening of the IGth, the weather cleared up, and we then found ourselves surrounded on every side by land. Our station was on the. east side of the sound, in a place which in the chart is distinguished by the name of Snug Corner Bay. And a very snug place it is. The leak being stopped, and the sheathing made good over it, at four o'clock on the morning of t^^ 17th we sailed to the north- westward, thinking, if there should be any passage to the north, that it must be in that direction. We met with a good deal of foul ground, and many sunken rocks, even out in the middle of the channel. The wind too failed us, and was succeeded by calms and light airs from every direction, BO that Ave had some ti'oublc to extricate ourselves from the threatening danger. In the morning the weather had been very hazy, but it after- ward cleared up, so as to give us a distinct view of all the land round us, particularly to the northward where it seemed to close. This left us but little hopes of finding a passage that way ; or indeed in any other direction, without putting out again to sea. As soon as the wind next morning had become favourable for getting out to sea, I resolved to spend no more time in searching for a passage in a place that promised so little success. Having thus taken my resolution, we proceeded to the southward. To the inlet, which we now left, I gave the name of Prince William's Sound. The natives, who came to make us several visits, were mostly dressed in long skins reaching to the ankles, with a hole for the head and sleeves that reach to the wrist. They were made of sea-otter, grey fox, raccoon, and real seal-skin. Some had frocks made of the skins of fowls with only the down remaining, which they glue on to other substances. Tliey all have their ears and noses perforated, and 1: "inches of beads hung on ; but the most uncommon and unsightly ornamental fashion is their having the under lip slit quite through in the direction of the mouth, giving the appearance of a second mouth. And, indeed, when the first the sheathing, the carpenters ty water-casks good over it, to tlie north- to the north. many sunken I'ind too failed very direction, Ives from the , but it after- : all the land enied to close, that way ; or jain to sea. favourable for I in searching 3ess. Having ard. To the nee William's d visits, were b'ith a hole for were niada of ne had frocks laining, which heir ears and but the most ir having the mouth, giving t^heu the first MAN O F PrtlNCE WILLIAM'S SOUND. Prlety, that it sliould be callnd Cook's River. This arm of tlio sea is now known as Cook's Inlet, and was further explored, in 1794, by Captain Vancouver. 177&] TAKING POSSESSION. 447 in niiio prol)able, or at least showed it to bo of greater extent. It was a satisfaction to mo, however, to reflect that if I had not examined this very conaidcnvblo inlet it would have been assumed by specu- lative fabricators of geof,'r;iphy as a fact that it commuiiicatod with the sea to the north, or with Baflni's or Hudson's Bay to the east. In the afternoon I sent Mr. King again with two armed boats, with orders to land on the northern point of the low land on tho south-east side of tho river ; thence to display tho Hag and take possession of tho country and river in His .Majesty's name; and also to bury in tho ground a bottle containing some pieces of English coin of the year 1772, and a paper on which vras inscribed tho names of our ships and tho date of our discovery. In tho meantime the ships were got under sail in ^rilor to proceed down tho river. . ") wind blew fresh easterly, but a calm ensued not long after we were under way, and the flood-titl "s meeting us off the point where Mr. King landed (and which thence got the name of Point Possession), we wero obliged to drop anchor in six fathoms of water, with tho point bearing south two miles distant. When Mr. King returned, ho informed me that, as he ap- proached the shore, about twenty of tho natives made their appearance with their arms extended, probably to express their peaceable disposition and to show that they wore without weapons. On Mr. King and the gentlemen with him landing with muskets in their hands, they seemed alarmed, and made signs expressive of their request to lay them down ; this was accordingly done, and then they suircred tho gentlemen to walk up to them, and appeared to be cheerful and sociable. They had with thom a few pieces of fresh salmon and several dogs. ]\Ir. Law, surgeon of the Discovery, who was one of the party, having bought one of tho latter, took it down towards the boat and shot it dead in their sight. This seemed to surprise them exceedingly, and, as if they did not think themselves safe in such company, they walked away ; but it was soon after discovered that their spears and other weapons weie hid in the bushes close behind them. We weighed anchor as soon as it was high water, and stood over to tho west shore, where the return of tho flood obliged us to anchor early next morning. Soon after several large and some small canoes with natives came off, who first bartered their skins, 443 J? [/AWING AGROUND. [X77fl. and tlion sold their garments, till many of thorn wore quite naked ; amongst others they brought a number of white hare or rabbit skins, and very beautiful reddish ones of foxes ; but there were only two or three skins of otters. They also sold us some pieces of salmon and halibut, and preferred iron to everything else offered to them in exchange. At half-past ten we weighed with the first of the ebb, and while plying down the river, owing to the inattention and neglect of the man at the lead, the liesohition struck and stuck fust on a bank that lies nearly in the middle of tho river, and about two miles above the two projecting bluff points before mentioned. As soon as the ship got aground I made a signal for the Discovery to anchor ; she, as I afterwards understood, had been near ashore on the west side of the bank. As the flood-tide; came in, the ship floated off soon after five o'clock in the afternoon, without receiving the least damage or giving us any trouble, and after standing over to the west shore into deep water, we anchoi'ed to wait for the ebb, as the wind was still contrary. We weighed again with the ebb, at ten o'clock at night, and between four and five the next morning, when the tide was finished, we once more cast anchor about two miles below the bluff point on the west shore. IMany of tiie natives came off, and attended upon us all the morning. Their conijumy was very acceptable, for they brought with them a quantity of fine salmon, which they exchanged for such trifies as we had to give them. INIost of it was split ready for drying, and several liundrcdweight of it was procured for tlic two ships. The wind remaining soutlicrly, w'c continued to tide it down the river, and on the morning of the 5th, coming to the place where we had lost our kcdge-anchor, made an attempt to recover it, but without success. Before we left tiiis place nix canoes came >, '' from the east shore, some conducted by one and otliers by two men. They remained at a little distance from tlie ships, viewing tjiem with a kind of silent surprise, at least half an liour, without exchanging a single word with us or witli one another. At length they took courage and came alongside, when they began to barter with our people, and did not leave us till they bad parted with everything they brought with them, consisting of a few skins and some salmon. 1778.] RUSSIAN TRADERS. 449 As soon as the ebb tide made in our favour, we weighed and plied down the river. On the 6th, we passed the Barren Islands and stretched away for Cape St. Hermogenes. To the westward lay a promontory which was named after the day, Cape Whitsunday, and a large bay to the west of it obtained the name of Whitsuntide Bay. The following days we had almost constant misty weather with drizzling rain, so that we seldom had a sight of the coast. I continued to ply to the SW. as the coast trended, and on the 14th we found an island which was named Trinity Island. The country here is moi-e broken and rugged than any part we had yet seen; the coast seemed full of creeks or small inlets, none of which appeared to be of any great depth. Every part had a very barren aspect, ■ id was covered with snow from the summits of the highest hills down to a very small distance from the sea-coast. On the 19th of June, the Discover u, now two miles astern, suddenly fired three guns and made the signal to speak with us. This alarmed me not a little ; and as no apparent danger had been remarked in the passage through the channel, it was apprehended that some accident must have happened. A boat was immediately sent to her, and in a short time returned with Captain Clerke on board. I now learned from him that some natives in canoes, who had been following the ship for some time, at length got under his stern. One of them made many signs, taking off" his cap and bo>-. ing, after the manner of Europeans. A rope being handed down from the ship, to this he fastened a small wooden box, made some signs, and left the siiip. No one on board had any suspicion tliia tho box contained anything till after the departure of the canoes, Avheu it was accidentally opened, and a piece of paper was found, folded up carefully, upon which something was written in tlie Russian language, as was supposed. The date 1778 was pre- fixed to it, and in the body of the note there was a reference to the year 177G. Kot learned enough to decipher the alphabet of tlie writer, his numerals marked sufficiently that others liad pre- ceded us in visitin<^ this dreary part of the globe ; and the hopes of soon meeting witli some of the Russian traders could not but give a sensible satisfactioir to those who had, for such a length of time, been conversant with the savages of the Pacitlo Ocean and of tho continent of North America. im) 29 45° THICK FOG. [ina Hi 1P< Early on the morning of the 20th, some breakers were seen two miles distant, which forced us bo far from the continent that we had but a distant view of the coast. Over some adjoining islands we could aee the mainland covered with snow, but particularly some hills, whose elevated tops were seen towering above tho clouds to a most stupendous height. The most south-westerly of these hills was discovered to have a volcano, wbic'i continually threw up vast columns of black smoke. It sta :<'.^ ' ^ far from the coast, and is also remarkable from its figui.^, oixJi i, a com- plete cone, having the volcano at the very summit. In the afternoon, having three hour.s' calm, our people caught upwards of a hundred halibuts, some of which weighed a hundred pounds ; this was a very seasonable refreshment to us. Wliilo thus engaged, a small canoe, conducted by one man, came to us from the large island ; on approaching the ship, lie took off his cap and bowed. It was evident that the Russians must have communication and traffic with these people, not only from their acquired politeness, but from their possessing certain articles only used among civilized nations ; thus our present visitor wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth or stuff', under the gut-shirt of his own country. He had nothing to barter exc< j)t a grey fox-skin and some fishing implements or harpoon*^ 'hc^ heads of the shafts of which were neatly made of bone. The weather was cloudy and hazy, with now and then sunsliinn, till the afternoon of the 22nd, when tho wind came round to the south-east, and, as usual, brought thick rainy weather. Before the fog came on, no part of the mainland was in sight, except tho volcano and another mountain close by it. We made but little progress for some days, having the wind variable, and lat little of it. On the morning of the 25th, wo got an easterly breoz what was uncommon witli this wind, clear weather, so vl not only saw the volcano, but other mountains, botli to 1. and west of it, and all the coast of tho mainland under much plainer than at any time before. The weather in the after- noon became gloomy, and at 1( ngtl; tur. el to a nnst, so thick that wo could not see a hundrt -i yards b.' -lUfi. Wo were now alarmed at hearing tho Hound of bra! ora on our larboard bow, and, t we < *\'X I- ni, 1778.] OONALASHKA. 451 and on heaving the lead found twenty-eight fathoms of water. I immediately brought the ship to, and a few hours after, the fog having cleared a little, it appeared that we had escaped very imminent danger. We found ourselves three-quarters of a mile from the north-east side of an island, and two elevated rocks were about half a league each from us, nnd about the same distance from each other. There were several breakers about them, and yet Providence had, in the dark, guided the ships between these rocks, which I should not have ventured on a clear day, and to such an anchoring-place that I could not have chosen a better. Finding ourselves so near land, I sent a boat to examine what it produced. The officer reported that it produced some tolerably good grass and several other small plants, one of which was like purslane, and ate very well either in soups or as a salad. On the 27th, we steered to the northwai'd. We had now land in every direction : that to the south extended to the south-west in a ridge of mountains, but our sight could not determine whether it composed one or more islands. We afterwards found it to be only one, known by the name of Oonalashka. Between it and the land to the north there seemed to be a channel in the direction of north-west. On a point whicli bore west from the ship three-quarters of a mile distant, were several natives and their habitations. In this place we saw them tow in two whales, which we supposed they had just killed. A few of them now and then came off to the ships and bartered a few trifling things with our people, but never remained above a quarter of an hour at a time ; they rather seemed shy, and yet we could judge that they were no strangers to vessels something like ours. They behaved with a degree of politeness uncommon to savage tribes. At daybreak on the 28th, we weighed with a liglit breeze at south, which was succeeded by variable liglit airs from all direc tions. But as there ran a rapid tide in our favour, we got through before the ebb made, and came to an anchor in twenty-eight fathoms of water near the southern shore. While we lay here, several of the natives came off to us and bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, a young man, liaviug upset his canoe while alongsirle one of our m 452 MO/;!E RUSSIAN TRACES. [1778. Ifcii' ■ ts; M boats, our people caught hold of him, but the canoe went adrift. The youth, by this accident, was obliged to come into the ship, and he went down into my cabin upon the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His own clothes being wet, I gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as !ch ease as I could have done. From his behaviour, and that some others, we were convinced that these people were no btiangers to Europeans and to some of their customs. But there was something in our ships that greatly excited their curiosity, for such as could not come off in their canoes assembled on the neigh- bouring hills to look at them. Soon after we anchored, a native of the island brought on board a note, which he presented to me ; but it was written in the Russian language, which none of us could read. As it could be of no use to me, and might be of consequence to others, I returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks by making several low bows as he retired. In walking next day along the sliore, I met a group of natives of both sexes, seated on the grass at a repast consisting of raw fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish as we should a turbot served up with the richest sauce. By the evening we had completed our water, and made such observations as the time and weather would permit. Tliick fogs and a contrary wind detained us till the 2nd of July, which afforded an opportunity of acquiring some knowledge of the country and of its inhabitants. CHAPTER XLIV. PROGRESS NORTHWARD AtTER LEAVING OONALASHKA— DEATH OF MR. ANDERSON, THE SURGEON — THE COCNTRV OF THE TSC'HUTSKr — THE SHIPS CROSS THE STRAIT TO THE COAST OF AMERICA— SITUATION OF ICY CAPE— SEA-HORSES— THE SEA BLOCKED UP WITH ICE— CAPE NORTH. HAVING put to sea with a light breeze, we steered 1778. to the north, meeting with nothing to obstruct us ^" in this course. As we advanced we found the depth of water gradu- ally decreasing and the coast trending more and more northerly. On the morning of the 16th, we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Here, between two points, the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly visible from the mast-head. I sent Lieutenant Williamson with orders to land, and see what direction the coast took, and what the country pro- duced, for it had but a barren appearance. Soon after, Mr. Williamson returned and reported that he had landed on the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found that the farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession of the country in His Majesty's name, and left on the hill a bottle in which was inscribed on a piece of paper the names of the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which he gave the name of Cape Newenham, is a rocky point of tolerable height ; the hills are naked, but on the lower grounds grew grass and other plants. He saw no other animal but a doe and her fawn, and a dead sea horse or cow upon the beach. On the 21st we were obliged to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal which had only a depth of five feet. While we lay here, twenty-seven men of the country, each in a canoe, came off to the ship, which they approached with great caution, hallooing and opening their arms as they advanced, which we understood was to express their pacific intentions. At length some ap^.x-oached 'i! 454 DEATH OF MR. ANDERSON. [177& near enough to receive a few trifles that were thrown to them. This encouraged the rest to venture alongside, and traffic presently commenced between them and our people, who got dresses of skins, bows, arrows, darts, and wooden vessels, our visitors taking in exchange whatever was offered them. They seemed to be tlu same sort of people that we had of late met with all along this coast, and wore the same kind of ornaments in their lips and noses, but were far more dirty and not so well clothed. They appeared to be wholly unacquainted with people like us, knew not the use of tobacco, nor was any foreign article seen in their possession, unless a knife made of a piece of common iron fitted in a wooden handle may bo looked upon as such. Most of them had their hair shaved; for a covering for the head they wore a hood of skins and a bonnet which appeared to be of wood. Our boats returning from sounding seemed to alarm them, so that they all left us sooner than probably they would otherwise have done. On 3rd August, Mr. Anderson, my surgeon, who had been ling- ering under a consumption for more than twelve months, expired between three and four in the afternoon. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his own profession, and had it pleased God to have spared his life, the public, I make no doubt, might have received from him such communications on various parts of the natural history of the several places we visited, as would have abundantly shown that he was not unworthy of this commendation. Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the west- ward It was supposed to be an island, and to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for wliom I had a very great regard, I named it Anderson's Island. The next day I removed Mr. Law, the surgeon of the Diacove.i'y, into the Resolution, and appointed Mr. Samuel, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be sur- geon of the Discovery. At three o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th, land was .seen, which we supposed to be the continent of America. It appeai'cd low next the sea; but inland, it swelled into hills which rise, one behind another, to a considerable height. At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at south-west, we ran down and anchored between the continent and an island 177&] FEAR OF THE NATIVES. 455 four leagues in extent, which was named Sledge Inland. I landed here, but saw neither shrub nor tree either upon the island or on the continent. That people had lately been on the island was evident from the marks of feet. We found, near where we landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given by rao to the island. It seemed to be such an one as the Russians in Kamt- chatka make use of over the ice or snow, and .vas ten feet long, twenty inches broad, and had a kind of rail-work on each side, and was shod with bone. The construction of it was admirable, and all the parts neatly put together. After several observations, from the 6th to the 9th, I was satisfied that the whole was a con- tinued coast. I tacked and stood away for its north-west part, and came to anchor near a point of land, which I named Cape Prince of Wales. It is the western extremity of all America hitherto known. At daybreak in the morning of the 10th, we resumed our course to the west, and about ten o'clock anchored in a large bay two miles from the shore. As we were standing into this bay we perceived on the north shore a village, and some people whom the sigiit of tlie ships seemed to have thrown into confusion or fear. We could plainly see persons running up the country with burdens upon their back.?. At these habitations I proposed to land, and accordingly went with three armed boats, accompanied by some of the officers. About thirty or forty men, each armed with a spontoon and bow and arrows, stood di-awn up on a rising gi-ound close by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down towards the shore, and were so polite as to take off their caps and to make us low bows. Wo returned the civility ; but this did not inspire them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing, for the moment we put the boats ashore they retired. I followed them alone, without anything in my hand, and by signs and gestures prevailed on them to stop and receive some trifling presenta In return for these they gave me two fox-skins and a couple of sea-horse teeth. Thoy seemed very fearful and cautious, expressing their desire by signs that no more of our people should be permitted to come up. On my laying my hand on the shoulder of one of them, he started back several paces. In proportion as I ad\anced, they 456 AMERICAN NATIVES. [1778. iiiii ri retreated, always in the attitude of being ready to make use of their spears, while those on the rising ground stood ready to support them with their arrows. Insensibly, myself and two or three of my companions got in amongst them. A few beads distributed to those about us soon caused a kind of confidence, so that they were not alarmed when a few more of our people joined us, and by degrees a sort of traffic between us commenced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and other articles, they gave us some of their clothing and a few arrows. But nothing that we had to offer could induce them to part with a spear or a bow. These they jield in constant readiness, never once quitting them, except at one time when four or five persons laid theirs down while they gave us a song and a dance. And even then they placed them in such a manner that they could lay hold of them in an instant, and, for their security, they desired us to sit down. The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but very few of them had barbs, and some had a round blunt point. What use these may be applied to I cannot say, unless it be to kill small animals without damaging the skin. The bows were such as we had seen on the American coast, and like those used by the Esquimaux. The spears or spontoons were A iron or steel, and of European or Asiatic workmanship, in which no little pains had been taken to ornament them with carving and inlayings of brass, and of a white metal. Those who stood ready with bows and arrows in their hands, had the spear slung over their right shoulder by a leathern strap ; a leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder, contained arrows, and some of the quivers were ex- tremely beautiful, being made of red leather, on which was very neat embroidery and other ornaments. Several other things, and in particular their clothing, showed that they were possessed of a degree of ingenuity far surpassing what one could expect to find among so northern a people. All the Americans we had seen, since our arrival on that coast, were rather low of stature, with round chubby faces and high cheek- bones. The people we now were amongst were far from resem- bling them ; in short, they appeared to be quite a different nation. We saw neither women nor children of either sex, nor any aged, except one man, who was bald-headed, and he was the only one 177&*j THEIR HABITS. 457 who carriod no arms ; the others seemed to be picked men, and rather under than above the middle ago. Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the skins of deer, dogs, or seals, etc., and extremely well dressed, some with the hair or fur on. The caps were made to fit the head very- close, and they also had hoods, made of the skin of dogs, that were large enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be black, but their heads were either shaved or the hair cut close off, and none of them wore any beard. We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, the floor of which is sunk a little below the surface of the earth. One of them which I examined was of an oval form, about twenty feet long and twelve or more high ; the framing was of wood and the libs of wiiales, disposed in a judicious manner, and bound together with smaller materials of the same sort ; over this framing is laid a covering of strong, coarse grass; and that again is covered Avith earth, so that on the outside the house looks like a little hillock supported by a wall of stone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two sides and one end. At the other end the earth is raised and sloping, to form a walk up to the entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof over that end. The floor was boai'ded, and under it a kind of cellar, in which I saw nothing but water, and at the end of each house was a vaulted room, which I took to be a store-room. These store-rooms communi- cated with the house by a dark pasf^age and with the open air by a hole in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked upon ; but they cannot be said to be wholly underground, for one end leads to the edge of the hill along which they wei-e made, and which was built up with stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry- box, or tower, composed of the bones of large fish. * The summer huts were pretty large and circular, being brought to a point at the top ; the framing was of slight poles and bones, covered with the skins of sea animals. I examined the inside of one ; there was a fireplace just within the door, where lay a few wooden vessels, all very dirty. Their bed-places were close to the side, and took up about half the circuit ; some privacy seemed to 458 INACCURATE AfAPS. [1778. be observed, for there were several partitions made with skins j the bed and bedding were of deer-skins, and most of tliem were dry and clean. Above the habitations wei'e erected several stages, ten or twelve feet high, such as we had observed in some parts of the American coast. They were wholly composed of bones, and seemed intended for drying their fish and skins, which were thus placed beyond the reach of their dogs, of which they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind, rather largo and of different colours, with long soft hair like wool. They are probably u.sed in drawing their sledges in winter, of which I saw a great Piany laid up in one of the winter huts. It is also not improbable that dogs may consti- tute a part of their food, as several lay dead that had been killed that morning. The canoes of these people are of the same sort as those of the North Americans, some, both of the large and small sizes, being seen lying in a creek under the village. By the large bones of fish and of other sea animals it appeared that the sea sujiplied them with the greater part of their subsist- ence. The country appeared to be exceedingly barren, yielding neither tree ncr shrub that we could see. At some distance west- ward wo observed a ridge of mountains covenid with snow that had lately fallen. At first we supposed this land to be a part of the island of Alaschka, laid down in ]\Ir. Stivhlin's map ; but, from the figure of the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America, and from the longitude, we soon began to think that it was more probably the country of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia explored by Behring in 1728. But to have admitted this, without further examination, I must have pronounced Mr. Stieh- lin's map and his account of the New Northern Archijielago to be either exceedingly erroneous, even in latitude, or else to bo a mere fiction — a judgment which I had no right to pass upon a publica- tion so respectably vouched, without producing the clearest proofs. After a stay of between two and three hours with these people, we returned to our ships ; and soon after, the wind veering to the south, we weighed anchor, stood out of the bay, and steered to the northeast, between the coast and the two islands. From this 1778.] CRITICAL SITUATION. 459 station we steered east, in order to get nearer the American coast. In this course the water shoaled gradually, and, there being but little wind, and all our endeavours to increase our depth failing, I was obliged at last to drop anchor in six fathoms, the only remedy wo had left to prevent the ships driving into less. A breeze of wind springing up at the north, we weighed at nine in the evening, and stood to the westward, which course soon brought us into deep water; and during the 12th we worked up to the north, both coasts being in sight, but we kept nearest to that of America. On the 15th of August a strong gale blew, and this was followed by a thick fog. Some time before noon we perceived a brightness in the northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink. It was little noticed from a supposi- tion that it was improbable wo should meet with ice so soon. And yet the sharpness of the air and gloominess of the weather for two or three days past seemed to indicate some sudden change. About an hour after, the sight of a largo field of ice left us no longer in doubt about the cause of the brightness of the horizon. We tacked close to the edge of the ice, not being able to go on any farther ; for the ice was quite impenetrable, and extended as far as the eye could reach. It was as compact as a wall, and seemed to be ten or twelve feet high at least. Its surface was extremely rugged, and here and there we saw upon it pools of water. At this time the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little, we saw land about three or four ui s?s distant. The eastern extremity forms a point, which was mucu encumbered with ice ; for which reason it obtained the name of Icy Cape. Tlie other extreme of the land was lost in the horizon, so that there can be no doubt of its being a continuation of the American continent. Our situation was now more and more critical. It was evident that if we remained much longer between the ice and the land, it would force us ashore, and it was in too large pieces to attempt forcing the ships through it. On the ice there lay a prodigious number of sea-horses ; and as we were in want of fresh provisions, the boats were sent to get some. By seven in the evening we had received nine of these animals on board, which, till now, we had supposed to be sea-cows ; so that we were not a little dis- 460 SEA-HOKSES. [1778. f'SS il«' I appointeti, especially some of the seamen, who, for tho novelty of the thing, had been feasting their eyes for some days past. Nor would thej have known the difl'erence now if we had not happened to iiave one or two on board who had been in Greenland, and declared no one over ote of these animals. But, notwithstanding this, we lived upon them as long as they lasted, and there were few on board who did not prefer them to our salt meat. The fat, at lirst, is as sweet as marrow ; but in a few days it grows rancid, unless it be salted. The lean flesh is coarse, black, and has rather a strong taste ; and the heart is nearly as well tasted as that of a bullock. Tho fat, when melted, yields a good d( 1 of oil, which burns very well in lamps ; and their hides, wh' e very thick, were very useful about our rigging. These animals lie in herds of many hundreds upon the ice, huddling one over the other like swii e, and roar or bray very loud ; so that in the night or in foggy weather they gave us notice of tho vicinity of the ice before we could see it. We never found the whole herd asleep ; some being always upon the watch. These, on the approach of the boat, would wake those next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually communicated, the whole herd would be awoke presently. But they were seldom in a hurry to get away till after they had been once fired at ; then they Avould tumble one over the other into the sea in the utmo.st confusion. By the time we had got our sea-horses on board we were, in a manner, surrounded with ice. At two in the afternoon we fell in with the main ice, along the edge of which we kept, being partly directed by the roaring of the sea-horses, for we had a very thick fog. Thus we continued sailing till near Uiidnight, when we got in amongst the loose ice, and heard the surge of the sea upon the main ice. I now hauled to the southward, and at ten o'clock the next morning, the fog clearing away, wo saw the continent of America. I continued to steer in for the American land until eight o'clock, in order to get a nearer view of it, and to look for a harbour, but seeing nothing like one, I stood again to the north, with a light breeze westerly. The southern extremity cf the coast seemed to form a point, which was named Cape Lisburne, and appeared to be high land, even down to the sea. [1778. ho novelty of s past. Nor not happened 'eenland, and bwithstanding id there were 3at. The fat, grows rancid, ,nd has ratlier :l as that of a of oil, wliicli •6 very thick, upon the ice, or bray very gave us notice 'e never found watcli. These, t to them, and le whole herd I in a hurry to en they would t confusion, we were, in a loon we fell in t, Leing partly id a very thick ;, when we got sea upon the clock the next nt of America. 1 eight o'clock, a harbour, but ;h, with a light oast seemed to id appeared to 1778.] STATE OF THE ICE. 461 Everywliere else, as we advanced northward, wo li;-.d a low coast from which the land rises to a middle height. The coast now before us was without snow, except in one or two |)laccs, and had a greenish hue. But we could not perceive any wood upon it. On the 22nd the weather was foggy, with some intervals of sunshine. In the evening it fell calm, and at midnight we heard the surge of the sea against the ice, and had several loose piecca about us. In the evening of the 27th wo were close with the edge of tlie ice, wliich lay ENE. and W8W. as far each way as the eyo could reach. Having but littlij wind, I went witli the boats to examine the state of the ice. I found it consisting of loose pieces of various extent, and so close together that I could hardly enter the outer edge with a boat, and it was as impossible for the ships to enter it as if it had been so many rocks. It appeared to be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at sea. It seems Acry improbable that this ice could have been the production of the preceding winter alone. I should suppose it rather to have been the production of a great many winters. The sun contributes very little toward reducing these great masses ; for, although that luminary is a considerable while above the horizon, it seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and often is not seen for several days in succession. It is the wind, or rather the waves raised by the wind, that brings down the bulk of these enormous masses, by grinding one piece against another, and by undermining and washing away those parts that lie exposed to the surge of the sea. A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed with the boats, hastened mo aboard rather sooner than I could have wished, with one sea-horse to each ship. We had killed more, but could not wait to bring them with us. The number of these animals on all the ice we had seen is almost incredible. We spent the night standing off and on amongst the drift-ice, and at nine o'clock the next morning, the fog having partly dispersed, boats from each ship were sent for sea-horses, for by this time our people began to relish them, and those we had procured before were all consumed. On the morning of the 29th we saw the main ice to the north- 46a AT CAPE NORTH. [1778. ■ward, and, not long after, land bearing south-west by west. Pres- ently after this more land showed itself, bearing west, in two hills like islands, but afterwards the whole appeared connected. As we approached the coast, it appeared to lie low next the sea, with elevated land farther back. It was perfectly destitute of wood, and t,ven snow. In the low ground, lying between the high land and the soa, was a lake extending to the south-east farther than we could see. As we stood off, the westernmost of the two hills before mentioned came open off the bluff point in the direction of north-west. This point, which is steep and rocky, was named Cape iSTorth. Its situation is nearly in the latitude of 68° 56', and in the longitude of 180° 51'. Being desirous of seeing more of the coast to the westward, we tacked again at two o'clock in the afternoon, tliinking we could weather Cape Nortli. But finding we could not, the wind freshen- ing, a thick fog coining on, with much snow, and being fearful of the ice coming down upon us, I gave up the design I had formed of plying to the westward, and stood off shore again. The season was now so far advanced, and the time when the frost is expected to set in so near at hand, that I did not think it consistent with prudence to make any farther attempts to lind a passage into tlui Atlantic this year in any direction, so little prospect was there of succeeding. INIy attention was now directed towards finding out some place where we might supply ourselves with wood and Mater, and the object uppermost in my thouglits was how I should speid the winter, so as to make some improve- ments in geography and navigation, and at the same time be in a. condition to return to the north in farther search of a passage the ensuing summer. W^ CHAPTER XLV. UKTUBN FROM CAPE NORTH ALONG THE COAST OP ASIA— THB TSCHUT8KI— BAY OK ST. LAWRENCE — NORTON SOUND— ACCOUNT OF THE HETTLESrENT AT OONA- LASHKA— DEPARTURE FROM OONAL^VSHKA- ARRIVAL AT OWHYHEE, ONE OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. AFTER having stood off till we got into eighteen 1778. fathoms water, I bore to the eastward along the coast, August, which by this time it was pretty certain could only bo the continent of Asia. As the wind blew fresh, with a very heavy fall of snow and a thick mist, it was necessary to proceed witli great caution. At daybreak on the 30th we made sail, and steered such a course as I thought would bring us in with tlie land, for the weather was as thick as ever, and it snowed incessantly. At ten we got sight of the coast, bearing south-west four miles distant. The inland country hereabout is full of hills, some of which are of a considerable height, and the land was covered with snow. For the two preceding days the mean height of the mercury in the thermometer had been very little above tho freezing-point and often below it, so that the water in the vessels upon the deck was frequently covered with a she of ice. The coast seemed to fori; /veral rocky points, connectetl by a low shore, without tho lea&t apj)earaiice of a harbour, and I was now well assured of what I had believed before — that this was tho country of tho Tschutski, or the north-east coast of Asia, and that thus far Behring proceeded in 1728. On the 2nd of September we had fair weather and sunshine, and as we ranged along tho coast at the distance of four miles saw several of the inliabitants and some of their habitations, which looked like little hillocks of earth. Tn the evening we passed the Eastern Cape, from which the coast changes hn diroctiuu and Irunds SW. It is tho same poiut 1 f llll^ i] 464 T//E COAST OF ASIA. [177a of land we had passed on the 11th of August. I conclude, as Behring did before nie, that this is the most eastern point of Asia. It is a peninsula of considerable height, joined to the continent by a very low, narrow neck of land. After passing the cape, I steered for the northern point of St. Lawrence Bay, in which we had anchored on the 10th of last month. We readied it by eight o'clock next morning, and saw some of the inhabitants at the place where I had seen them before. None of them, however, attempted to come off to us, which seemed a little extraordinary, as the weather was favourable enougli. These people must be the Tschutski. This Bay of St. Lawrence* is at least five leagues broad at the enti'ance. It appeared to be tolerably well slieltered from the sea winds, provided there be sufficient depth of water for ships. I did not wait to examine it, although I was very desirous of finding a harbour in these parts to which I might resort next .spring. In justice to the memory of Behring, I must say that he has delineated the coast very well. I was now convinced we were upon the coast of Asia, but I had no way of accounting for the great difference but by supjiosing that I had mistaken some part of what he calls the island of Alaschka for the American continent. It was with mc a matter of some consequence to clear up this point the present season, that I might have but one object in view the next. And as those northern isles are represented by him as abounding with wood, T was in hopes of getting a supply of that article, which we now began to be in groat want of on September. , , ^„. , , . t , , ^ , » board. uith these views 1 steered for tlie American coa.st, and on the 6th we got sight of it near Sledge Island. Pursuing our course, on the 9th we found ourselves upon a coast covered with wood, an agreeable sight to which of late we had not been accustomed. Next morning, being about a league from the west shore, I took two boats and landed, attended by Mr. King, to seek wood and water. We observed tracks of deer and foxes on the beach, on which also lay a groat quantity of drift- wood, and there was no want of fresh water. T returned on board JK * Captain Cook gives it this namo, liaving anchored in It on St Lawrence's Day, Anpiist 10. It is remarkable that Itehring sailed past tlds very place on the lOlli of August 172H, on which account the neighbouring Island was named liy him after the same saint 1778.] NA TIVES. 465 witli an intention to bring the ships to an anchor here, but, the wind veering to north-east, I stretolu'd over to the opposite shore, in hopes of finding wood there also, and anchored at eiglit o'clock in the evening under the south end of the island. So we then supposed it to be; but next morning we found it to be a peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each side of which the coast forms a bay, which obtained the name of Cape - Denbigh. Several people were seen upon the peninsula, and one man came off in a small canoe. I gave him a knife and a few beads, with which ho seemed well pleased. Having made signs to bring us something to eat, he immediately left us, and paddled towards the shore ; but meeting another man coming off who happened to have two dried salmon, he got them, and would give them to nobody but me. Lieutenant Gore being now sent to the peninsula, reported that there was but little fresh water, and that wood was diflicult to be got at, by reason of ho boats grounding at some distance from the beach. This being the case, I stood back to the other shore, and at eight o'clock the next mcniing I sent all the boats and a party of men with an oflicer to god many, who brought bread-fruit, potatoes, tarro or eddy-roots, a few plantains, and small pig.« all of which they exchanged for nails and iron tools ; indeed wo had nothing else to give them. We con- tinued trading with them till four o'clock in the afternoon, when, having disposed of all their cargoes, and not seeming inclined to fetch more, we made sail and stood off shore. While we were lying-to the wind blew fresh. In the afternoon of the 30th, being off the north-east end of the island, several canoes came off to the ships. ]\Iost of these be- longed to a chief named Terreeoboo, who came in one of them. He made me a present of two or three small pigs, and we got by barter from the people a little fruit. After a stay of about two hours they all left us, except six or eight of their company, who chose to remain on board ; a double-sailing canoe came soon after to attend upon them, which we towed astern all night. In the evening we discovered another island to windward, which the natives call Owhyhce.* The name of that off which we had been for some days, wo were also told, is Mowee. On the 1st of December, at eight in the morning, find- ing that we could fetch Owhyheo, I stood for it, and our visitors from Mowee, not choosing to accompany us, embarked in their canoe and went ashore. At seven in the evening we were close up with tho north side of Owhyhee, where we spent the night, standing off and on. In the morning of the 2nd, we were surprised to see the summits of the mountains on Owhyhee covered with snow. As we drew near the shore some of the natives came off to us ; they were a little shy at first, but we soon enticed some of them on board, and at last prevailed upon them to return to the island and bring off what we wanted. Soon after they had reached the December. * The Sandwich Islands, of which Owliyhee or Hawaii is the cliief, consists of eight inliabited islands, and two or three rocky and desolate islets. The former are called Woahoo or Oahu, Mowee, Kawai or Atooi, which Cook had already visited; Molokai, Lnnai; Kiihaw, and Kalioolawe. Thd whole superficial area is 0,000 square miles, 4,000 of which are comiut, whether from consideiation that it was not the first time of their being required to use that liquor, or from some other reason, they did not attempt to curry their purpose into actual execution, and I had never heard of it until now, when they renewed their ignorant opposition to my best endeavours to serve theiu. Every innovation whatever on board a ship, though ever so much to the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet with their highest (lisa))probat.ion. Roth portable soup and sour krout were at first condemned as stufT unlit for human beings. Few commanders have introduced into their ships more novt 'Mes, as useful varieties of food and drink, than I have done ; ind'^iS. few commanders have had tlie same opportunities of [1778. handed, we We con- jde sail and ihe 6th and for four or work up to ding that a r, I ordered en the cask so much as jrage but to t no further ourse to per- at there was itiful supply arted in my I either ship, lie sugar-cane f it. A few uch. It has doubt of its leged that it n which they t to drink the ration that it that liquor, to curry their ard of it until n to my liest Rver on board oanien, is sure portable soup liit for human ■ir ships more 1 I have done ; )portunitie8 of 177&] SQUALLS. 475 trying such experiments. It has, however, been in a great measure owing to various little deviations from established prac- tice that I have been able to preserve my people, generally speak- ing, from that dreadful distemper the scurvy, which has periiaps destroyed more of our sailors in their peaceful voyages than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. I kept at some distance from the coast till the 13th, when I stood in again six leagues farther to windward than we had as yet reached, and after having some trade with the natives who visited us, stood out to sea. I now determined to get round, or at least to get & sight of the south-east end of the island, but the wind was variable between the 14th and 18th, blowing sometimes in hard squalls, and at other times calm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the evening it shifted to east by south, and we stood to the southward, close-hauled under easy sail, as the Discovert/ was at some distance astern. At this time the south-east point of the island bore south-west by south about tive leagues distant, and I made no doubt that I should be able to weather it. But at one o'clock next morning it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of a north-easterly swell, which impelled us fast towards the land, so that, long before daybreak, we saw lights and the shore, which was not more than a league distant The night was dark, with thunder, lightning, and rain. At three o'clock the calm was succeeded by a breeze, blowing in squalls, with rain, and at daybreak the coast was seen extend- ing from north to south-west, a dreadful surf breakiiiij; upon the shore, which was not more than half a league distarit^ It was evident that wo had been in the most imminent danger ; nor were we yet in saftity, the wind veering more easterly, so that for some time we did but just keep our distance from the coast. What made our situation more alarming m as the leech-roiie * of the maintopsuil giving way, which was tho occasion of the sail being rent in two ; and tho two topgallant sails gave way in the .same manner, though not half worn out. I>y taking a favourable oi)portunity we soon bent others, and then we left tho land astern. * The Ie«ch-rop« it that vertlcnl pftrt of the bolt-rope to which the odgo o( tho mU t» aewed. 476 HONESTY OF THE NATIVES. [177& The Discovery, by being at some distance to the north, was never near the land, nor did we see her till eight o'clock. As soon as daylight appeared, the natives ashore displayed a white flag, which we conceived to be a signal of peace and friend- ship. Some of them ventured out after us, but the wind freshen- ing, and it not being safe to wait, they were soon left astern. In the afternoon, after making an attempt to weather the eastern extreme, which failed, I gave it up, and ran down to the Discovery. Indeed, it was of no consequence to get round the island, for we had seen its extent to the south-east, which was the thing I aimed at ; and according to the information we had gained from the natives, there is no other island to the windward of this. How- ever, as we were so near the south-east end of it, and as the least shift of wind in our favour would servo to carry us round, I did not wholly give up the idea of weathering it, and therefore con- tinued to ply. On the 20th, in the afternoon, some of the natives came off in their canoes, bringing with them a few pigs and plantains ; but the supply being barely sufficient for one day, I stood in again the next morning, till within three or four miles of the land, where we were met by a number of canoes laden with provisions. We brought to, and continued trading with the people till four in the afternoon, when, liaving got a pretty good supply, we made sail, and stretched off to the northward. I had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and suspicion in my intercourse with any tribes of savages as we experienced in the people of this island. It was very common for them to send up into the ship the several articles they brouglit off for barter, after which they would come in themselves and make their bargains on the quarter-deck. The people of Otnheite, even after our repeated visits, do not care to jiut so much confidence in us, whence I infer that tliose of Owhyhee must be more faithful in their dealings with one another tlian the inhabitants at Otaheito arc ; for, if little faith won; obsei-ved amongst themselves, tliey would not be so ready to trust strangers. Tt is also to be observed, to their honour, that they had never once attempted to cheat us in exchanges, nor to comm't a theft. On the 22nd, at four in the afternoon, after purchasing every- [1778. li, was never ! displayed a 3 and friend- wind freshen- ; astern. In r the eastern he Discovery. island, for we thing I aimed aed from the ; this, How- l as the least ; round, I did therefore con- es came off in :)lantains; but d in again the le land, where ovisions. We 11 four in the we made sail, in reserve and ravages as we ry common for loy brought off ves and make Otnheite, even confidence in 3 more faithful nts at Otaheite emselves, they to 1)0 observed, to cheat us in ■thasing every- 1779,] MISSING THE DISCOVERY. 477 thing that the natives had brought off, we made sail and stretched to the north ; aiid at midnight wc tacked and stood to the south- east. Supposing that the Discovery would see us tack, the signal was omitted, but she did not see us, as we afterwards found, and continued standing to the north, so that at daylight next morning she was not in sight. At this time, the weather being hazy, we could not see far, so that it was possible the Discovery might be following us ; and being past the north-east part of the island, I was tempted to stand on, till, by the wind veering to north-east, we could not weather the laud upon the other tack. Consequently we could not stand to the north to join or look for the Discovery. At six in the evening we had succeeded in getting to windward of the island, which we had aimed at with so much perse\erance. The Discovery, however, was not yet to be .seen ; but the wind, as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded that it would not be long before she joined us ; I therefore kept cruising off this south-east point of the island till I was satisfied that Captain Clerke would not join me here. I now conjectured that he had not been able to weather the northeast part of the island, and had gone to leeward, in order to meet me that way. As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the land, no canoes except one came off to us till the 28th, when Ave were visited by a dozen or fourteen. On the morning of the Sth of January 1779, we passed the south point of the island, on which stands a pretty large village, the inhabitants of which thronged off to the ship with hogs. As I had now got a quantity of salt I purchased no hogs but such as were fit for salting, refusing all that, were under size ; however, we could seldoni get any above fifty or sixty pounds weight It was happy for us that wo had still some vegetables on board, for we now received few such productions ; indeed, this part of the country, from its appearance, did not seem capable of affording them. Marks of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano everywhere presented themselves, and though we had as yet seen nothing like one upon the island, the devastation that it had made in this neighbourhood was visililo to the naked eye. The next morning the natives visited us again, bringing with them the same articles of commerce as before. Being now near 478 THE DISCOVERY FOUND. [1T7». the shore, I sent Mr. Bligh, the master, in a boat to sound the coast, with orders to land and to look for fresh water. Upon his return he reported that he found no running stream, but only rain water deposited in holes upon the rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea, and that the surface of the country was entirely composed of slags and ashes, with a few plants interspersed. Between ten and eleven we saw with pleasure the Discovery coming round the south point of the island, and at one in the afternoon she joined us. Captain Gierke coming on board, informed me that he had cruised four or five days where we were separated, and then worked round the east side of the island, but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been carried to 8on)e distance from the coast. He had one of the islanders on V)oard all the time, who had remained there from choice, and had refused to quit the ship, though opportunities offered. Having spent the night standing off and on, we stood in again the next morning, and when we were about a league from the shore, many of the natives visited us. At daybreak on the 8th, we found that the currents had carried us back considerably to windward, so that wo were now off the south-west point of the island. There we brought to, in order to give the natives an o])i)ortunity of trading with u.s. Wo spent the night as usual, standing off and on, and, at four in the morning of the 11th, tlie wind Vieing at west, I stood in for the land, in order to get somo supplies. We lay to or stood on and off during the next few days, trading with the natives, but got a very scanty supply. At daybreak on the 16th, seeing the appearance of a bay, I Ki>nt Mr. Bligh with a ])oat from each ship to examine it, being at this time three leagues off. Canoes now began to arrive from all parts, so that before ten o'clock there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs and other productions of the island. Wo liad the most satisfying j>roof of their friendly intentions, for wo did not see a single person who had with him a weapon of any sort. Trade anecame exceedingly useful to us in the management of his country- m'?n, as we had soon occasion to experience. For we had not been lor.g at anchor when it was obser\ ed that the Discovery had such a number of people hanging on one side, as occasioned her to heel considerably, and that the men wore unable to keep off the crowds which continued pressing into her. Captain Cook being appre- hensive that she might suffer some injury, pointed out the danger to Pareea, who immediately went to their assistance, cleared the ship of its encumbrances, and drove away the canoes that sur- rounded her. The authority of the chief over the inferior people appeared from this incident to be of the most despotic kind. A similar instance of it happened the same day on board the Hesohition, when the crowd Ijcing so great as to impede the necessary busi- ness of the ship, we were obliged to have recourse to the assistance of Kaneena, another of their chiefs, who had likewise attached himself to Captain Cook. The inconvenience wo laboured under b<»ing maile known, he immediately ordered his countrymen to quit the vessel, and we were not a little surprised to see them jump overboard, without a moment's hesitation, all except one man, who, loitering behind and showing some unwillingness to ob(!y, Kaneena took him up in his arms and threw him into the sea. IV)th these chiefs were men of .strong and well-proportioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleasing. Kaneena es- IK'cially, whose portrait was drawn by Mr. Webber, was one of the finest men I ever saw. II taboo a thing is to forbid or interdict it tm». 1779.1 APPEAKAXCE OF PK/ESTS. 487 of our new Ith which wo novelty and 3 the subject !y were, how- part of the in Cook, they aarcl of eight ing orders to uperintending t» parties that ; conveniently ), Pareea, who nil, otlered to 1 our observa- this offer, and irai, which was lie intrusion of ly fixing their ahoo,"* a word these islanders, )eration, and it !^o canoes ever wall, but none ad obtained our ;onie across tho ;ould prevail on ■d, but without g them, but in '.atooa and Ter- ould kill them, iiusement to our d particularly of I In tho Friendly and irbtd or Interdict It. women, that continued to flock thither obliged them almost every hour to clear tho vestiel, in order to have room to do tho necessary duties of tho ship. On theso occasions two or tiiree hundred women were frequently made to jump into tho water at oiico, where they continued swimming and playing about till tlioy could again procun'o admittance. From tho 19th to tho 24th, when Parcoa and Koah loft us to attend Terreeoboo, who had landed on some other part of tho island, nothing very material happened on board. The calkers wen; set to work on the sides of tho ships, and the rigging was carefully overhauled and reijaircd. Tho salting of hogs for sea store was also one of tho principal objects of Cajitain Cook's attention, and met with comphite success. We had not long been settled on shore at tho observatory before wo discovenKl, in our neighbourhood, tho habitations of a society of priost.s, whose regular attendance at this moral had excited our curiosity. Their huts stood round a pond of water, and wore surrounded by a grovo of cocoa-nut trees, which sepa> rated them from iO beach and the rest of the village, and gavo the place an air of religious retirement. On my acquainting Captain Cook with these circumstances, ho resolved to pay them a visit, and as he expected to bo received in tho same manner as before, he brought INlr. Webber with him to make a drawing of the ceremony. On his arrival at tho beach ho was conducted to a sacred building called llurre-no Orono, or tho house of Orono, and seated before tho entrance at tho foot of a wooden idcl, of the same kind with those in tho moral. I was hero again made to support one of his arms, and, after wrajiping him in red cloth, Kaireekeea, accompanied by twelve priests, made an offering of a pig with tho usual solemnities. The pig was then strangled, and a fire being kindled, it was thrown into tho embers, and after the hair was singed off, it was again presented, with a repetition of the chant- ing, in the manner before described. The dead pig was then held for a short time under the captain's nose, after which it was laid with a cocoa-nut at his feet, and the performers sat down. The avn was then brewed and handed round ; a fat hog, ready dressed, ■•vas brought in, and we were fed as before. 488 c NSTANT SUPPLY OF FOOD. [1779. I! t During tli« rest of the time we remained in the bay, when- ever Captain C'ook came on shore lie was attended by one of these j)rieK^,8, m\\o went before him, giving notice that the Orono hud landed, and ordering the people to prostrate theniscilvcs. The same person also constantly accompanied him on the water, stand- ing in the bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and giving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes, on wlsich they immediately left olF paddling, and lay down on their faces till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the observatory, Kaireekeea and his brethren immediately made their appearance with hogs, cocoa-nuts, bicad-friiit, (,'tc., and presented them w.th the usual solenuiities. It was on these occasions that some of the inferior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to make an olFering to the Orono. When this was granted, they presented the hog themselves, gent^raliy with evident marks of fear in their counttMiances, whilst Kaireekeea and the priirsts chanted their uccust(Uiied hyiiiiis. The civilities of this society were not, however, confined to mere ceremony and parade;. Our party on shore received from them every day a constant supply of hO|^s and vegetables, more than sullicient for our subsistence; ami .several canoes, loailed with provisions, were sent to the siiips vth the same punctuality. No return was ev(tr demanded or «'von iiinted at in the most distant manner. 'J'heir presents were made with a regularity more like the discharge of a religious duty than the ellort of mere liberality ; and when we intjuired at wIkisc charge all this munifi- cence was displayed, we w«'re tuld it was at the ^^\pense of a great man calU^d Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and granilfather of Kaireeke«>a, who was at that time absent, attending tlu^ king of the island. Ah everything relating to the character and b«'haviour of this people nmst be interesting to the reader, on account of tiie tragedy that was afterwards acted here, it will be prujxjr to ac(|uaint him that wo had not always so much rea.son to be sivtislied with the conduct of the warrior chiefs, or Karees, as with that of the priests. In all our dealings; with tlu! former we found them sutliciently attentive to their own interests ; and besides their habit uf stealing, which may admit of some excuse from the universality 1779.] TERREEOnOO'S VISIT. 489 of the practice amongst tlie islamlei-s of tliosp seas, they made use of other artiticcH equally dishonourable. I shall only mention one instance in which we discovered, with regret, our frie'ii 'voah to bo a party j)rincipally concerned. As the chiefs who brouglit us presents of hogs were always sent back handsomely rewarded, wo had generally a greater supply than wo could make use of. On tliese occasions Koah, wlio never failed in his attendance on us, used to beg such as \\v did not want, and they were always gi\en to him. It one day happened that a jiig was presont(ul to us by a man wlioni Koah himself introduced as a chief who was desirous of paying his resiHicts, and we recollected the pig to bo the same that had hvm given to Koah just before. This leading us to suspect some trick, we found, on furtln't- inquiry, the pretended chief to be an ordinary person ; and on connecting this with other circumstances, wc had reason to suspect that it was not the tirst time wo had been the dupes of the like imposition. Tilings continued in this state till the 24tli, when we were a good deal surprisc'd to find that no canoes were suffered t^) put off from the shore, and that th(( natives kcipt close to their houses. Vttor several hours' suspense, we learned that the bay was tabooed, and all intercourse with us interdicted on account of the arrival of Terreeoboo. As we had not foreseen an acridcnt of this sort, the crews of both ships were obliged to pass the ilay witiiout their usual supply of vegf^tablcs. The next morning, flu-refore, they endeavoured, lx>th by threats and promises, to intluctj the natives to come alongside, and, as some of tluni were at last venturing to \n\i ofl', a chief was observed attcniiiting to drive them away. A musket was immediately fired over his head to make him desist, which had tho desired eflect, and su}>plies were soon after purchased as usual. In the afternoon Terrceobc i arrivetl, and visit<,d tho ships in a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He stayed on board till near ten o'clock, when he returned to the village of Kowrowa. Till' next day, about noon, tho king, in a large canoe attended by two others, set out from the village, and paddled towanls tho sliips in great state. Their appearance was grand ami magnili- 490 CHIEF OF THE FRJESTH. [1779. ii i' m cent. In tlu lirat canoe w.-w Tcrn'ooboo and chiefs, dresseil in their rich feathered cktaks and lielmets, and armed with long spears and daggers ; in the second esnoo the venerable Kaoo, tL*? chief of the priests, and his i)rethren, with their idols displayed ou red cloth. These idols were busts of a gigantic size, made of wickerwork, and curiously covred with small feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner as their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut fixed in the centre ; their mouths were set with a double row of the fangs of dogs, and, together witli the rest of tlieir features, were strangely distorted. The third (uiuoe was IJllcd with hogs and :''^us sorts of vegetablcf As thny went along, the prie.sts i i i\v centre canoo sung their hynms with great solemnity, and, after paddling round the ships, instead of going on board, as was exi>f:cted, they made towards the shore at the beach where w.' were stationed. As soon as 1 saw them apjiroaching, 1 ordered out our little guard to receive the king ; and Captain Cook, peneiving that he was going on shore, followinl liim and arrived nearly at the same tin'c, Wo conducted them into the tent, where tley liad scarcely been seated, when the king rose up, and, in a V(ry graceful naiuier, threw over the captain's shoulders the cloak he liimself wore, put a feathered helmet upon liis head and a curious fan into his hand. lie also .spread at his feet five or six other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest value. His atten(!ants then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa-ruts, ami bread- fruit; and this part of the ceremony was concluded by the king exchanging names with C'aptain Cook, which, amongst all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean, is esteemed the strongest pledge of friendship. A procession of priests, with a venerable old person- age at their head, now ai>p(>ared, followed by a long train of nien leading largo hogs, and others carrying plantains, sweet potatoes, and otlier articles of food. l?y the looks and gestures of Kiaree- keea, I immediately know the old man to bo the chief of the j)riests before mentioncKJ, on wiiose l>ounty we liad so long sub- sisted. Ife Iu'kI a piece of nd .loth in hi.H linnds, which he wrapped round Captain Cook's shonMers, and afterward presenti'd him with a small pig in the usual form. A seat was tlien made for him next to the king after which Kaireekeea and hi:i follow- <^mk'-M [1779. h, dressed in ed with long ible Kaoo, tb*> dols displayed Bize, made of lers of various g. Their ey<»8 ,t fixed in the ,f the fauss of were strangely d r''>U8 sorts i , 'Ai" centre , after paddliuir i rxpftcted, they were stationed, our little guard nj; that he was the same titvc, \(\ sciircciy hecn ■vacef ul nanncr, liiiself wore, put a into his hand. I, all exc(>edin<,'ly iits then brought >uts, and hread- Jcd by the king amongst all the roiigost pledge of ruble old pcrson- )ug train of men s, sweet potatoes, stuns of Kiaree- lli(! chief of the bad so long sub- hands, which he rward presented ,t was then made ft iiud his follow- li I 1779.] 77/Zi' A'/A'G. .',91 era began their eerenionie-s, Kaoo and the chief.s joining in the responsea I was surprised to see, in the per.son of this king, tiic samo infirm and (Muaciated old man that came ou beard the R'soluliun when wo were otl' tlie north ea.st side of the isluml of Mowee, and wo soon discovered amongst his attendants most of tlio persons who at that time liad remained with ua all night. Of this number wore tlu? two younger sons of the king, tiio eldest of whom was sixteen years of age, and his nepliew, ]\tailia-Mailia, whom at (ir.st we liad some dilliculty in rccolltjcting, his hair lieing Itlasteri^l over with a dirty brown paste and powder, winch was no mean heightening to the mo.st savage face I ever Iniheld. As soon as the formalities of the t meeting were over. Captain Cook carried Terreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace would hold, on board the Residntion. They w, and hospi- tality was, however, frequently interru})te dill not v» ami in all J) the country ainod out thf instances of cse occasions, ratjcr to ofVer •ilioil it' 'lioir ! practised to hoys and girls lul stopiKxl UK 1 a groui> for ; a dniuj^ht < ' th<' shade, ot ■itvlc of young aiMUWJ us «ith tcHH and hospi- i(. propensity to otiier isknderh istres-sing as H severity, whieh ii the cHM- hixl >st expert swim- rawing out the filliny-nails of tho sheathing, which they jterfornuMl very dexter- ously, by means of a short stick with a flint stone tixitl in ('»! end of it. To put a stop to this practice, which endan<,'en'd ilio very existence of tho vessels, we at first fired small siiot at the oti'endera, but they easily got out of our reach by diving under the ship's bottom. It was therefore found necessary to make an exampit* l)y fh^gging one of them on board \\w. Dwovortj. About this time a largis party of gentlemen, from both Khi])S, set out on an excursion into the interior of tiie omintry, with a view of examining its natural productions. It aflbrded Kaoo a fresh opixM'tunity of showing his attention and generosity ; for as soon as ho was informerl of their d(»parturo he sent a largo supply of provisions after them, together with orders that the inliabitants of the country through which they wr-n^ to pass ; ';'>uld give them every assistance in their power ; and, to complete tho delicacy and disinterestedness of his eonduct, even the peofdo ho employed iiuld not l>e prev.iiied on to accept the smalle.st jiresent. After remaining out six days our oflicers returned, witiumt having been able to penetrate above twenty miles into the ishxnd, jiarlly from want of jiroper gui on shore on t'lo 27th to unrgo a thorough repair. At the luo time, tho oar|>«>nters were sent into tho country, under conduct of some of Ivaoo's people, to cut planks for th»f head-rail work, which was also entirely decayed anel rotten. On the 2Hth Captain Chrke, whoKe ill health rontined luio for the most part an board, j)aid Terrecoboo his first visit nt his hut on shore. Ho wa.s received. Iht-y struck, in what apjiearcd to our c-yes an awkward manner, witii a full swing of the arm ; made no attempt to parry, but elud»nl their adversary's attack by an inclination of the l>ody, or by retreating. The battle was cjuiokly «Iecidcd ; for if either of them was kjiockcd down, or even fi-U by acciibnt, he wns coi»sidireatanta The mmafi good that wo should \uL^^•■ Imriii- our part in them ; but our people, tliough much [ITT*. hat we had cUtt'eml in liort account enibled on a it*. A long ippcr <'nd of which hung p(>*'8«, a lew sports wcro anpJ<««l ,nihft((inta Tho iih we hofon^ ^o ioH(^ ganioH wor«» xp.«.-t.-d that wo [il.-. Ihiiugh much 1779.] DEATH OF A SEAMAN. 495 pressed hy tht* natives, turned a (hiaf ear to their chalhnige, ro- nicnihoring full well tho blows they got at tin; Friendly Islands. This day diod William Watman, a seaman of t'ui gunner's crow, an event which I mention tho more particularly, as death had hitherto been very rare amongst us. lie was an old man, and much respected on account of his attachment to Captain Cook. III! had formerly served as a marine twenty-one y<'ar8 ; after which he entered as a seaman on board th«; Rtnolnlion in 1772, and served with Captain Cook in his voyage ttiwarus the South Polo. On their return ho was admitted into (ireenwich Hospital through the captain':' interest, at the same time with himself ; and being resolved to follow througljoufc the fortunes of his benefactor, he also ({uitted it along with him on his being apjioirited to tho command of tho present exjietUtion. At the request t the king of t'lo island he was buried on thn morui, and tho e<'niiiony was performed witii a-n much .solemnity OK our situation permitted. Old Kaoo ajid his brethren were spectatore, and preserved the mt st profound silonce anat want nf fuel, Capfain Cf»ok desii"<>d me, on the 2nd of Fcliruuiy, to treat with tho priests for tho |>urchaso of the rail that surrounded the top of the morai. T nnist < onfess i hail at first anine doubt about the iloooncy of this pnv posai, and w -i ni'i. > iiNive that men the ban* mention of it nu&rht Ih) consider.. 4 1>- ii.-in a.s a piece of shocking impiety. In this, however, I found myself mistaken ; not tho smallest surprise was ox]iressors and ir(M»ware before him. Tlie king seemed much pleased with this mark of their duty ; and liaving selected about a third (Ml) 32 498 LAAfENTF.n DEPARTURE. [irr». part of tho iroiiwaro, tlio samo proportion of fcntbrrs, and a fow pieces of cloth, thcHO woro sot asido by thomsolvcs, and tlio ro- maindor of tho cloth, tognthor with all tho Iiogs and vogotahlos, wcro afterwui'lH prosoiitcd to ( 'aptuin Oook and niyKolf. Wo woro astonished at tlio value and magnitude of this present, which ex- ceeded everything of tho kind wo liad Boon eithiT at tho Friendly or Society Islands. Boats were imnu'diatoly sent to carry them on board ; tho large hogs were picked out to be salted for sea store, and upwards of thirty snialler pigs and the vegetables were divided between tho two crews. The seme day wo quitted tho moral, and got tho tents and astronomical instruments on board. Tlie charm of tho taboo was now removed, and we had no sooner Ic^ft tho place than tho natives rushed in and searched eagerly about in expectation of finding something of value that wo might have left behind. As I happened to remain tho last on shore, and waited for tho return of the boat, several came crowding round me, and having made me sit down by them, began to lament our separation. It was, indeed, not without difficulty I was able to quit them. Having had tho command of the party on shore during the whole time wo were in tho bay, I had an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with the natives, and of being V)ottor known to them, than those whoso duty required thorn to be generally on board. As I had every reason to bo satisfied with their kindness in general, so I cannot too often nor too jiarticularly mention the unbounded and constant friendship of their priests. On my part I spared no endeavours to conciliate their alTections and gain their esttiom, and I had tho good fortune to succeed so far that, when tho time of our departure was made known, I was strongly solicited to remain behind, not without ofVors of the most llattoring kind. When I excused niysolf by saying that Captain (.'ook would not give his consent, thoy propo.sed that I should retire into the mountains, where thoy said they would conceal m(> .her assui" ^p ip: my iring them that the captain would not leave tho bay without mo, Ter- reeolioo and Kiioo waited uj>on Captain Cook, whoso son thoy supposed 1 was, with a formal request that T might bc^ loft behind. The captain, to avoid giving u positive refusal to an otlor so kindly [177». tind a fow nd tlio ro- vogcta^>l<^Sf \Vo wore ,, which ex- lio Friondly carry them [tea for Bpa Btablcs wore 10 tcntB and 1,0 tahoo was n the natives m of finding U I happened u of the boat, 10 sit clown by to quit theni. ring the whole jcoming better lown to them, ally on board, ir kindness in y mention tho their affections to succeed so known, I was TH of the most ,jr that Captain "that I ^\^o\ih\ ould conceal me urther assuring ithout me, Ter- whoso sou they ,t be left behind. ,n otVer so kindly 1779.] FRESff PROOFS OF FRIEXDSHfP. 499 intended, told tliom that ho could not part with mo nt that time, but that ho should return to tho island next year, and would then endeavour to settle tho matter to tlieir sutisfaction. Eiirly in tho morning of tho 4th, wo unmoored and sailed out of tho bay, with tho Dhcoreri/ in company, and wore followed by a great number of canoes. Captain Cook's design was to finish tho survey of Owliyheo before we visited tho other islands, in hopes of nuMiting with a road better sheltered than tho bay wo had just loft ; and in case of not succeeding here, ho proposed to take a view of tho south-ea.st part of Mowco, where tho natives informed us wo should find an excellent Imrbour. We had calm weather all this and tho following day, which made our progress to the northward very slow. Wo were accom- panied by a great number of tho natives in their canoes, and Terrofioboo gave a fresh proof of his friendship to Captain Cook by a largo present of hogs and vegtitnbles that was sent after him. Til the night of tho Atli, having a light breeze off tho land, wo made some way to tho northward, and in tho morning of the 6th, having passed tho wefiternmost point of tho island, we found our- selves abreast of a deep bay called by tho natives Too-yah-yah, Wo had great hopes that this bay would furnish us with a com- modious harbour, as wo saw several fine streams of v ater, and tho whole had tho appearance of Ijeing well sheltered. These observa- tions agreeing with tho accounts given us by Koah, who accom- panied Captain Cook, and had changed his name out of compliment to us into Ih-itannce, tho pinnace was hoisted out, and tho master, with Britanneo for liis guide, was sent to oxamiuo the bay whilst tho ships worked up after them. In tho afternoon tho weather became gloomy, and tho gusts of wind that blew off the land were so violent as to make it necessary to take in all tho sails and bring to under tho mizzon-staysail. All the canoes left us at tho beginning of tho galo ; and Mr. Bligh, on his return, had the satisfaction of saving an old woman and two men who.so canoo had bat many women on board whom tlie natives had left Ixihind in their hurry to shift for themselves. Tho master rei)orted to Captain Cook that he had landed at -vTi ^: % % ^7\^h ^^.O. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I «- IIIIIM j5 Iz m M 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 M= ^ 6" — ► VI ^ /a ^;. 'c^l > O / -^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation s.

us and vu- pleasant nature had happened. The officer who had been sent in the small boat, and was returning on board with the goods which had been restored, observing Captain Cook and me engaged in tin pursuit of the offenders, thought it his duty to seize the cuuoe [1779. 12 me that ,vero grown )y a marine away their e mob were to assist in ent to meet pinnace. 1 e, in case of immetliatoly rders to the id with ball larmed by a we observed rds the shore We immedi- )f some theft, th an armed ;liey came on 3 we supposed aving quitted arrival. I been already circumstance ortancc, were lem. Having ople had fled, (t ourselves to ting that the pursuit, were , we thought beach. >us and vn- d been sent in le goods which engaged in ti'is ejze the canoe 1779.] CAPTAIN COOK UNEASY. SOS which was left drawn up on the shore. Unfortunately this canoe belonged to Pareea, who, arriving at the same moment from on board the Discovery, claimed his property, with many protestations of his innocence. The oflicer refusing to give it up, and being joined by the crew of the pinnace, which was waiting for Captain Cook, a scuffle ensued, in which Pareea was knocked down by a violent blow on the head with an oar. The natives who were collected about the spot, and had hitherto been peace- able spectators, immediately attacked our people with such a shower of stones, as forced them to retreat with great precipita- tion and swim off to a rock at some distance from the shore. The pinnace was immediately ransacked by the islanders, and but for the timely interposition of Pareea, who seemed to have recovered from the blow and forgotten it at the same instant, would soon have been entirely demolished. Having driven away the crowd, he made signs to our people that they might coine and take possession of the pinnace, and that he would endeavour to get back the things which had been taken out of it. Aft<:r their departure he followed then in his canoe, with a midshioman's cap and some other trifling articles of the plunder, and with much apparent concern at what had happened, asked if the Orono would kill him, and whether he would permit him to come on board the next day. On being assured that he would be well received, he joined noses (as their custom is) with the officers, in token of friendship, and paddled over to the village of Kowrowa, When Captain Cook was informed of what had passed, he expressed much uneasiness at it, and as we were returning on board, " I am afraid," said he, " that these jjcople will oblige me to use some violent measures; for," he added, "they must not be left to imagine that they have gained an advantage over us." However, as it was too late to take any steps this evening, he contented hira.self with giving orders that every man and woman on board should be immediately turned out of the ship. As soon as this order was executed 1 returned on shore ; and our former confidence in the natives being now much abated by the events of the day, I posted a double guard on the moral, with orders to call mo if they saw any men lurking about the bo^r-h. ivt about eleven o'clock five islanders were observr creeping round the 5o6 LOSS OF THE DISCOVERY'S CUTTER. [1779, bottom of the inorai ; they seemed very cautious in approaching us, and at last, finding tliemselves discovered, retired out of sight. About midnight one of them venturing up close to the observatory, the sentinel fired over him, on which the men fied, and wo passed the remainder of the night without further disturbance. Next morning at daylight I went on board the Resolution for the timekeeper, and in my way was hailed by the Discovery, and informed that their cutter had been stolen during the night from the buoy where it was moored. When I arrived on board I found the marines arming, and Captain Cook loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst I was relating to him what had happened to us in the night he inter- rupted me with some eagerness, and acquainted me with the loss of the Discovery's cutter, and with the 2)reparations he was making for its recovery. It had been his usual practice, whenever anything of consequence was lost at any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king or some of the principal Erecs on board, and to keep them as hostages till it was restored. This method, which had been always attended with success, he meant to pursue on the present occasion, and at the same time had given orders to stop all the canoes that should attempt to leave the bay, with an inten- tion of seizing and destroying them if ho could not recover the cutter by peaceable means. Accordingly the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, were stationed across the bay, and before I left the ship some great guns had been fired at two large canoes that were attempting to make their escape. It was between seven and eight o'clock when we quitted tho ship together ; Captain Cook in the pinnace, having Mr. Phillips and nine marines with him, and myself in the small boat. The last orders I received from him were to quiet the minds of the natives on our side of the bay by assuring them they should not be hurt, to keep my people together, and to be on my guard. We then parted ; the captain went towards Kowrowa, where the king resided, and I I)roceeded to the beach. ]\Iy first care on going ashore was to givo strict orders to the marines to remain within the tv'it, to load their pieces with ball, and not to quit their arms. Aiterwards I took a walk to the huts of old Kaoo and the priests, and explained to them as well as I could the hostile preparations, which had [1779. iproaching t of sight, iservatory, we passed olution for covery, and night from rming, and lilst I was bt he inter- 1 the loss of ( making for er anything 3cean, to get and to keep , which had irsue on the •dcrs to stop ith an inten- b recover the f both ships, y, and before large canoes etween seven ler ; Captain marines with ra I received n our side of to keep my parted ; the sided, and I re was to give t- -it, to load Ai terwards I ,nd explained IS, which had 1779.] FEELINGS OF SUSPICION. 507 exceedingly alarmed them. I found that they had already heard of the cutter being stolen, and I assured them that, though Captain Cook was resolved to recover it, and to punish the authors of the theft, yet that they, and the people of the village on our side, need not be under the smallest apprehension of sulFering any evil from us. I desired the priests to explain this to the people, and to tell them not to be alarmed, but to continue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo asked me with great earnestness if Terreeoboo was to be hurt % I assured him he was not, and both lie and the rest of his brethren seemed much satisfied with this assurance. In the meantime Captain Cook, having called off the launch, which was stationed at the north point of the bay, and taken it along with him, proceeded to Kowrowa, and landed with the lieutenant and nine marines. He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with the usual marks of respect, the people prostrating themselves before him, and bringing their accustomed offerings of small hogs. Finding that there was no susp.'cion of his design, his next step was to inquire for Terreeoboo and the two boys, his sons, who had been his constant guests on board the Resolution. In a short time the boys returned along with the natives who had been in 3earch of them, and immediately led Captain Cook to the house where the king had slept. After a short conversation with him about the loss of his cutter, from which Captain Cook was convinced that he was in nowise privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat and spend the day on board the Resolution. To this proposal the king readily assented, and immediately got up to accompany him. Things were in this prosperous train, the two boys being already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party having advanced near the water-side, whe-r an elderly woman called Kanee-Kabareea, the mother of the boys and one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, and with many tears and entreaties besought him not to go on board. At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him and forced him to sit down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the shore, and had probably been alarmed by tlie firing of the great gUHs and the aj»j>earance of hostility in the bay, began to throng v\ 5oS A CHIEF KILLED. [1779. round Captain Cook and their king. In this situation, the lieutenant of marines, observing that his men were huddled close together in the crowd, and thus incapable of using their arms if any occasion should require it, proposed to the captain to draw them up along the rocks close to the water's edge, and the crowd readily making way for them to pass, they wava drawn up in a line, at a distance of about thirty yards from the place where the king was sitting. All this time the old king remained on the ground, with the strongest marks of terror and dejection in his countenance. Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the objtict for which he had come on shore, continued to urge him in the most pressing manner to proceed; whilst on the other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to follow him, the chiefs who stood round him interposed, at first with prayers and entreaties, but afterward with force and violence, insisting on his staying where he was. Captain Cook therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting the king off without bloodshed, at last gave up the point, observing to Mr. Phillips that it would be impossible to compel him to go on board without the risk of killing a great number of the inhabitants. Though the enterprise which had carried Captain Cook on shore had now failed, and was abandoned, yet his person did not appear to have been in the least danger till an accident happened which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats which liad been stationed across the bay having fired at some canoes that were attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook was just as he had left the king and was walking slowly towards the shore. The ferment it made was very conspicuous ; the women and children were immediately sent off, and the men put on their war-mats and armed themselves with spears and stones. One of the natives having in his hands a stone and a large iron spike, which they call a pahooa, came up to the ca2:)tain, flourishing his weapon by way of defiance, and threatening to throw the stone. Tiie captain des'red him to desist, ))ut the man persisting in his insolence, he was at length provoked to fire a load of small shot. The man having his mat on, which the shot were [1779. xtiou, tlio icUcd close ;heir arms ill to draw the crowd n up in a I where the icd on the tion in his e objcict for n the \nost Ij whenever who stood reaties, but lying where alarm had : any longer ya\e up the mpossible to ling a great ,in Cook on rson did not int happened ich had been es that were f of the first lere Captain .Iking slowly conspicuous ; and the men 1 spears and stone and a the captain, ireatening to but the man to fire a load the shot were %' 1779.] DEATH OF CAPTA/X COOK'. 509 uiial)lo to pcnpfrato ; this had no othfr olVtic-t tlian to initato and cnoourago thcin. Several stonos were thrown at tli(! marines, and one of the Karees attempted to stab JNIr. Phillips with his pahooa, but failed in tho attempt, and received from him a blow with the butt-end of liis musket. 'nptain Cook now fired his second barrel loaded with ball, an.' '.villcd one of the foremost of tlio natives. A f,'(!neral atta* k with stones immediately followed, which was answered Iv i discliargo of niusketry from the marines and tho peoph^ in tlie boa's. Ino islanders, contrary to tlje expectations of e/ery one, 'otool the fire with great firmness, and before tho marines hn