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Our route lay through vast fir forests of poor rocky soil, l)y several small lakes and morasses ; a district like wild Wales — hilly and ])roken — here and there a small village and some cleared land — then, after entering Canada, larch-Avoods and more cultivated ; no fine trees, but a beautiful under- growth of flowering shrubs with bright berries, acacias and others ; tall wild flowers, blue, yellow, pink, the latter like tall willow herb, called nreweed, always following the fires. Many places are burnt and scorched. Stump and snake fences. Very flat for thirty miles, through wood and black half-burnt stumps, then across the river St. Lawrence to Quebec, a noble port !^ 29th, Wednesday. — At Russell Hotel. The town built on hill above the great river, surmounted by the citadel and open ground. Town dirty ; wooden footpaths, streets often unj^aved, neglected. Noble views up and down the river, if from the high ground, of all counfry round : to south-west, vast plains of forests to distant mouniains, bounding Canada and the United States ; to east, noble river flowing through hills away to north and east; to north, mountains of St. Charles (like our Brytthen chain) where is a lake, whence enters the great river below the town. B 3 10 SHORT JOURNAL OF A TISIT TO I - Boiiglit some guide-books. Few views to be had ; a poor collection of birds, beavers, &c. I went to the hill outside the citadel, whence there is a noble view up and across the St. Lawrence. In the far distance to the south are the Blue Mountains, the boundary with the United States. We visited the Montmorenci Falls, about seven miles to the east, and the natural steps, which are vast beds of rocks worn down in ages by the toiling, struggling river. The Falls are very fine. We went in a light carriage driven by a French Canadian, who was pleased by my conversing in French with him ; crossed the St. Charles' river near the town, and went through dispersed houses and vil- lages of the hahitans, all French-looking small wooden dwellin 3, small farms and divisions, little progress, no mansions. A noble view from the road across the great liver to miles and miles of Canada to the south, spread like a vast map to the dim distance and afar-ofF mountains and hills. Introduced to Mr. Buckingham, Governor of Connecticut. Music in the garden by Wolfe's monument, which bears a graceful inscription to him and Montcalm, rivals worthy of each other — Mortem Virtus communem Famam Historia MONUMENTUM PoSTERITAS Dedit WOLFE— MONTCALM. There is a glorious view across the rivor to the south here, and a still finer from a public walk and wide terrace near the Governor's house. i .M CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 11 J. ■Vv SOth. — Went over the citadel, whence a noblo view, to the Heights of Abraham, some distance, where the decisive battle was fought, and Wolfe fell crowned with victory — and the Canadas ! Sketched roughly the distance ; returned by Gate of St. liOuis, after again admiring the wide-spread American landscape. A magnificent river, extended forest, blue edges of distant mountains lost in the far jDxpanse. We were going to call on Lord Kilcoursie, in the Hero, when we learned the Prince would have a grand entrance to Ottawa, with tlie Indians and voyagers in canoes ; so resolved to be there, and went off^at four P.M. by Jenny Lind boat up St. Lawrence to Montreal. The river fine and striking for many miles, with much shipping just above Quebec ; hence gradually the country adjacent became flatter, and at length the shores little elevated above the water, whilst the river expanded into wide-spread lakes, as twilight softened all the distances. I rose twice in the night to look out, in bright moonlight, on these vast inland waters. In the early morning, arrived at Montreal, and hastened on by the railway to Ottawa, a flat district of hundreds of miles of forests, little cleared. Changed trains at Prescott, and arrived too late at Ottawa for the river procession, but got rooms with some trouble, (favoured by a Canadian M.P.,) and saw the fireworks, flags, banners, &c. Met some intelligent persons in the railway — as to plants, and various matter. What regions of forest land 12 SHORT JOUEXAL OF A TISIT TO i { !i! we passed, disfigured by burnt stumps of trees, and little cleared or improved ! Passed in our way the Ottawa river, sung by Moore, and saw St. Anne's, where " soft was heard the evening hymn." September \st. — A great day for Ottawa and Western America. From the backwoods came many rough but energetic-looking persons, male and female, on forest ponies or cars, of decided coun- tenances and odd vestments, to look at the show. Visitors from various Canadian communities — all the inhabitants, English, Irish, and canny Scotch. A proclamation stated that the owners of vacant lots along the line in Sussex, Rideau Parks, O'Connor and Wellington Streets, should enclose their lots with fences fronting the street. The town has some noble views from the upper part and from the proposed Parliament House site over the Ottawa, the fine Chaudiere Falls, up the wide gleaming waters, and over countless regions of forest and woodland, stretching away for ever to the south and west. The town is laid out regularly in wide streets and cross streets, but few houses, and those at intervals ; no paving, rough plank footways, mud holes, and all rough, but thriving. All the town and suburbs decorated with rough triumphal arches — rows of spruce firs, brought from the forests by thousands. "Welcome" inscriptions to the Prince ; various pictures of Queen and the Prince, (sometimes comical likenesses;) flags and banners, British, Cana- dian, French, &c. &c. I made application foi' tickets. *\\ CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 13 and the ^ / and as almost the only British M.P. there, soon got them, and for Archer for the inner circle. We attended to see the first stone of the Parliament House of this new empire city laid by the Prince. A fair inscription ; address, prayer, and ceremony over, the stone was lowered to its place amid grand cheers. The Prince and his suite in uniform, Deputies and M.P.s of Canada round him, I with them ; ladies smiling and applauding, and the bright sun of Canada shining out charmingly. Wo then dispersed ; wandered over the unrivalled terrace near their projected Senate House, looking over bright rivers and forests far and wide. Then the Prince had a levee: I was presented by the Duke of Newcastle, my old colleague in the Health of Towns' Commission ; Lords St. Germains and Mulgrave, and some others, came to welcome me, and General Williams and Sir E. Head introduced to me, and also Sir A. MacNab : all courteous, &c. Then a grand procession round the town of the Prince and his suite. Then a collation, champagne, &c., given by Canadian representatives ; I and Archer were among' the guests ; toasts. Prince, Queen, &c. ; cheers, and away. Several of these M.P.s gave civil invitations to me. Grand gathering on the fine cliffs and brow of the noble river ; five steam-boats crowded ; shoals of canoes worked by paddles by the red Canadian : bands in Indian fashion, amid the extended forests ; a grand canoe race j in the evening, town illuminated. I 14 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO f All happy, mixed, and merry : may it be a bright beginning of a happy future for free millions, crowned with religion and comfort ! We have here many Deputies, some from far away. The outside division will be 400 miles away. I pressed on some of them preserves of land in time for public parks and walks. The general prosperity here of careful working- classes is evident. Many Irish and Scotch own in a few years little farms, and get up in other ways. One Scotchman said, eight years since he bought a farm, a few miles off : bush bind, 10*. per acre, 200 acres ; now wortix £2 to £3, soon to be double. Churches for all opinions. Some odd proper names. Virtue & Irvine sell good spirits. Attended service, and after arrived just as the Prince and Duke of Newcastle came out of their church and passed close to us, with a Bmile from the Duke to me. Hence we viewed the grand Falls of Chaudiere, somewhat like the Rhine at Schaffhausen, but wider. Called, and got the Prince's route from one of his suite, nephew of Mrs, Mayne, and who had been at Walford Manor with them. It was odd also that one of the Prince's grand footmen immediately knew me, having come from Cound, near Shrewsbury. We met to-day some of the few Indians left, in their head-gear and mocassins, carrying papouches fastened to boards to hang up, and with two dark, yellow squaws, wearing large rough brown beaver hats ; and it required almost unlimited credulity to believe they belonged to the fair sex. The sun and sky clear like Italy, i> J CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 15 ,« September Srd. — Left the beautiful but unfiuishcd city, and descended the Ottawa to Montreal by five fiteamboats and two short railways. Phicid, shining waters, often expanding into small lakes. The banks low, covered with forests, and broken by lonely dwell- ings and small farms, and sometimes villages. Last entrance to St. Lawrence, a noble reach of many miles. In, front, far oft] Montreal ; to the right, mountains ; to right of the river towards Maine, and far away to the south, the mountains of Vermont in the United States, where the St. Lawrence divides. Beauharnais, the Seignory of E. Ellice, M.P., an old acquaintance. Some priests and pleasant people on board. Few birds ; they say it's too cold in winter but for snow-birds ; three ducks, three large king- fishers ; a sad blank of songsters and others in these waters and woods. - Perhaps kind friends will excuse some — LINES WRITTEN ON DESCENDING THE OTTAWA, SEPTEMBER 4th, 1860. We leave the fair city of Canada's choice, In its welfare may millions of freemen rejoice ! Whence the eye from the cliffs overhanging the stream Wanders over the woodlands which limitless seem, Whence the race of wild Indians is vanished and gone, And the white man is lord of the forest alone ; With energy manfully working his way, Cheered by religion and liberty's ray. Success to his efforts ir clearing the wild ! His only companions — a woman and child — She will bless by affection and help him along, Whilst their young one will join in their evening song, I : 16 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO Looking up from their home of contentment and love To tlio Friend of the lowly, who dwcUcth above I Ottawa tide, as we float on thy breast, Whilst the sun of the Canadas shines on onr rest. — Let us pray for the thousands in woodlands around, Beginning tlicir struggle in life's weary round ; Success crown their efforts, and God be their guide, Till they sleep in lone graves by fair Ottawa's tide. And oft we may call to our thoughts when alone. These regions of solitude, traversed and gone. Amid these wild forests and lakes of the West, May exiles from home find a haven of rest ! Montreal, September 4tk. — We went over this well-built and prosperous city. It is built on a long ridge, parallel with the River St. Lawrence, and has a long quay with many vessels. Above the town is a fine wooded hill, Mount Royal, crowned with a cemetery of 120 acres, and on the side are various pleasant villas, overlooking a most extended view to forests and hills across the river, and commanding the wonderful new tubular bridge. The town has some very fine new public buildings of grey stone. Catho- lic and Church cathedrals, banks, and other large public offices. We drove up for a grand view, and I had the assurance (sometimes useful) to go to a gentle- man's house on the hill, saying I was an English stranger, and asking leave to go upon their terrace in front for the prospect. This was permitted, I introduced myself to the lady (a pleasing one), wife of Mr. Monk, one of the Judges of their court, and son of Monk, Bishop of Gloucester, whom I remember at Cambridge many years ago. A noble view to the mountains of the States, and far away to the south. 4 >i ■ i f i CANADA AXD THE STATES OF AMERICA. 17 We sent a letter home. Called on and dined with tho bishop, Dr. Fulford, who was very courteous, and took us to the cemetery and elsewhere. I met again with Judge Ilaliburton, &c. After some purchases we, — September 5thy — Set. off at half-past six by rail to Lake Champlain : thence by steamboat to Ticon- deroga, and with a short portage to another steamer, and along Lake George to Fort William Henry. Au excellent hotel. Very flat to Lake Champlain, which is seventy miles long : the upper half is very fine : bounded by the green mountains of Vermont on the east, and by the Anandirondac, a wild high chain, on the west. In tho latter are deer, and many wild animals, and iron, to which they bring coal from Pennsylvania. Lake Champlain is somewhat like the Scotch lakes, and Loch Lomond in style of mountains, but more distant and extensive. Lake George, thirty -five miles long, bounded by fine wooded hills coming steep down like Loch Tay, and like Barmouth river, in North Wales. Some neat cottages on the banks. — Called at Mohican (last of Indian race, vide Cooper), and arrived at a grand summer hotel full of American travellers ; grand saloons, promenades, &c. Mr. and Mrs. Prymc, of New York, were our pleasant comj)anions. He, a great sportsman, angler, &c. ; both great travellers in Europe, Syria, Egypt, &c., and going to Spain ; by their company we were induced to take this line in our way to Saratoga. . September 6th. — Coach to Monroe, thence railway to f I ,! 18 SHORT JOURNAL OF A TISIT TO Saratoga by one. Heavy, lumbering coaches, tbrco seats, inside nine. Undulated country, sandy : distant mountains ; crossed Upper Hudson at cataracts of Gleii Fall, wild rocks, and spoiled by saw-mills and timber trash : land almost cleared, and improving. This great American watering-place is the fashion for gaiety and mineral waters, languishing ladies and pale smok- ing dandy Transatlantics : a wide-spreading place with gay shops with awnings against the sun, and hundreds of all classes sauntering about. Vast hotels, " United States," "American," &c., with shady gardens to each, surrounded by very long wooden porticoes, or colon- nades : morning-rooms and refreshment-rooms, hold- ing some thousand guests, with meals three or four times a day for multitudes, with black waiters. In the evenings, talking, walking, lounging, dancing, a little flirting, and the rest of it, or the balance, as they call it. Ladies a good deal dressed ; men wear morning dark suits ; a great deal of gazing and smok- ing, with legs up on chairs. The ladies have good eyes, some with a Spanish or gipsy look ; rather pretty, but almost all pale. The men, often slender, good figures, but rather projecting noses, and features marked with acuteness, but not showing repose at all ; almost all, pale and sallow. The race of both sexes must lose tint by the fathers and all the men smoking so much. They seem communicative and civil, if courteously addressed, and like to talk of the Anglo- Saxon race, theirs and oitrs. Mr. and Mrs. Pryme left us. I gave my address and two trifling works. i CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 10 i and received his curd for New York ; an culiglitcned pleasant man, and agreeable lady wife. We visited the great Agricultural Show and Fair ; met holiday multitudes. Nothing to note, as to stock, but some fair Devon cattle, and some well set up and fast trotting horses and light gigs, &c. In the evening, a grand torch-light procession of torch-bearers. Music, and men in glazed coats, with fireworks, as an election demonstration for Lincoln and Hamlin ; fiivourablc to preventing the extension of slavery to other States. Saratoga^ 7th. — This place is laid out for a largo tOMTi ; wide streets and trees. To the lake, four miles off, nine miles long, pretty banks ; no public walk up to Belvidero House. 8th. — To Niagara seven to nine, rainy day. Valley of the Mohawk, many miles often like Herefordshire vales. Little falls, cut by stream through great rocks, then wide flats. Greek and Indian names are mixed, Syracuse, Troy, Canandagua, &c. "Inter- national" hotel. 9thj Sunday. — Church. In one street white Methodist, grey Scotch, brown Episcopalian churches. AVe are delighted with the noble Falls. To Goat Island ; the tower, and round the drive on the Ameri- can side. Two miles of grand broken waters, and rocky torrents above the great Canadian Falls. Got some wild seeds for home. In the evening, again on the island. You pay a trifle to go : this should not be. Viewed these glorious J 20 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO Falls again ami again. Americans here arc always smoking or eating ; both operations rather jiroi^aic. Tho waiters here are all blacks, drilled, but rather noisy. The girl?;, Irish, and like to hear of "tho old counthry sure." Sucli radiant raiiiljows at the Falls ! 10///. — Up early, and round the whole island before breakfast. Many beautiful wild flow^ers : white fox- gloves, yellow asters, and many more, (lot a few seeds for home, as none are gathered or sold here. The island (to enter wliich you pay 20 cents) is about seventy acres, and belongs to a family named Porter. Some noble trees in the wood — eighty or ninety feet without a bough — ehns, and poplars. This hotel is very large, but rather scrambling, and full of smokers. Several odd things about it. The wooden mills and water privileges above the American Fall rather spoil it. The great Erie Canal, which goes from Buffalo to the Hudson, only takes boats of 100 tons or so. Crossed over to tho Clifton House on the Canada side, with a noble view of both Falls. We went to the height at Drummond Villa, and got a wide view of the country. Much w^ooded round ; no high mountains. 11///. — The rocky channel of the vast river below the Falls is very grand, something like (on a far larger scale) the banks of the Avon, near Clifton proposed suspension bridge. Hence to Museum of Indian Curiosities, &c.; but the cataracts and river are tho lights of this wondrous landscape. Took an excur- sion to heights. Sulphur springs above rapids, &c. CAXAP.V AND TIIK STATES OF AMERICA. 21 ^ays Tho Prlnco cxijcctod noon, propanitoiy arches ; tiglit ropod for iSoiiiL- oxhibition of Bloiulin'ti — in- appropriate aud |>aiuful, I should think, — quite acroHsi tho vast river. An account is couie of a Hteamer (tho Lady Elgin) lost in Lake Michi«rftn, with 3(X) persouH, ou an excursion iu tlie night — whilst dance and merriment prevailed. A schooner struck them, and all but seventy, of near 400 men, women, aud children, perished : Mr. Ingram, M.P., and his son, it is said. INIilwaukic and other places full of mourning. Alas ! let us bo thankful for our safety ! Iu the evening visited the Museum, where aro many birds' skins ; some curiosities, a live bison of the prairies, rather savage, being teased probably. Fine view of the Falls hence. There is, perhaps, one of the finest views iu the world for waterfalls and wild rocks from the hotel along the road, yet is there no footway, no seats, no slight fence along tho dangerous clifl". I ■will try to suggest the improvement to the Duke and others in authority. Scptcmbev \2th, — To General Brock's Pillar, whence a line view of the St. Lawrence entering Lake Ontario, and miles of that inland sea, with wide- spread views of forests, flat lands, the lieights out far to south, and perhaps part of the north Alleghauies, Lewistown, oj^positc the pillar, has a foot-bridge across. Very cold. Major Macgratli promises a sash, &c., of poor Wynn deceased. I find intelligent Americans very civil. AH our waiters here, and other negroes, are escaped slaves. Irish women in the bedrooms I 22 SHORT JOTJEXAL OF A VISIT TO and wash-houses ; a stouemjison from Derbyshire earns, he says, a dollar and half per day {6s.), so many others, and doing well, hut the cots on farms are of wood, very cold in the winter : firing and clothes, they say, dear. Met a pleasant lady, Mrs. Mosse, from Boston. Received all our books ; talked of poor Miss Mitford together ; gave her lines on a Fuchsia. I wrote hence to the Duke of Newcastle to suggest efforts for a walk along this noble cliff and view, with a few seats, and a slight rail for safety : all is utterly neglected. Many beautiful wild plants : I wonder no seeds are ever gathered for sale ; Museums, Indian works, &c. IBth. — Some midshipmen of the *^JIero" here ; young Percy of Hodnet ; they have shot to-day some woodcocks. 14th. — Early ; left with regret this astonishing place — never to be forgotten, or thought of without reverence, " Thunder of waters ! wonder of all ! '"* We see thee before us — Niagara's fall ! In night or in solitude, ponder and fear : lie speaks from the wilderness — ' Lo ! I am here ! ' Who rules the wild ocean and governs the wind, * Our Father,' who pities and blesses mankind ! " Proceeded by early rail to Hamilton, on the Lake, with a beautiful cove or harbour, and thence through wild forests with various clearings, and farms full of stumps of trees and snake fences, to Toronto, a large and prosperous flat city on Lake Ontario. We had glimpses of the vast Lake here and there, and •t CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 23 of passed what ai^peared tlic dry beds of small lakes and water-courses, often filled with aquatic plants. The harvest almost in : French wheat cut : plough- ing, two horses abreast. Toronto has some fine buildings, great Court- Ilouse, College and Churches; ascended John Knox's for view of all. This town is laid out with wide streets, as the rest are, and gradually filling up ; has a vast railway station for the North, as well as the West and East, There is a singular low slip of land in the lake, with trees on it, sheltering somewhat the port ; all prospering. Our young fellow-traveller says game is gradually retreating, but the wild turkey and deer are still found towards Sarnia. Returned, to sleep, at Hamilton. 1 5th, — Well laid out, a fine situation ; beautiful, sheltered cove for shii^ping, and fine sloping hill above it, called " the mountain," which we climbed for a fine general view of the town and country. Some pleasant suburban villas of retired merchants, &c., two of which are preparing for the Prince and his suite. Large arches, dressed with evergreens, flags, &c., such as wo saw at Toronto and other places, to receive the Prince. Very good shops and ware- houses here and at Toronto ; but these towns depend much upon the demand and custom of the extensive rural district round, held chiefly by farmers of land from 150 to 160 acres, who own their farms. For two or three years there have been bad harvests, which injured the towj^j j now they have good prospects. 24 SHORT JOURXAL OF A VISIT TO "We resisted the invitations to Sir A. MacNaVs and the agricultural shows and gay doings, and to meet the Prince at Hamilton, so after viewing the town (in which I have a little interest) we left at twelve for Detroit, and arrived at nine. A long monotonous journey, chiefly through a flat country, parti.illy cleared for sixty miles ; then ogain forests and stumps, and finally, our first wide prairie, full of marshes and wet, and then along Lake St. Clair to the vast steam ferry-boat from Windsor to Detroit. Stations of all names, Bronte, Minnico, Bothwell, Chatham, suggesting thoughts of periods and places widely diflferent. -- Met e?i route with Dr. Boyle and lady, of New York. He dressed in costume of Louis XIV., cocked hat and buckles, long hair flowing ; a little civility between us, and sorrow for a poor Irish woman with six small children, going to her sister, and scarcely knowirig where and a trifle for the children, brought us acquainted. Land varies of course in price, from £3 per acre, to £10 good and cleared. Capital wanted, about £2 per acre, or 10 dollars. — - Detroit is laid out with noble, wide streets at right angles : Jefferson Avenue as wide as Regent Street. Some good houses and large shops and stores, but not filled up, and here and there wooden houses and opens. The outline of a great city, twelve Churches, many wharves. . > Though flat, the town is placed on the river, broad as CANADA AND THE STATES OE AMEKICA. 25 ib's and to meet le town i twelve ;li a fliit m again prairie, ;t. Clair De'^^roit. othwell, [ places 3f New cocked civility an with scarcely light us ?r acre, •out £2 at right Street, but not jes and urches, road a& the Thames at London, between the Lake St. Clair and other great lakes of the North, and Lake Erio and the Canal to New York. Saw a glorious view of the town and country round, and a fine sunset from the observatory at the top of the hotel. Also two noble steamboats, {Jtiis- sissippi and Western World,) plying in the great lakes here. The Americans are all pale, none fat. IIow is this? Tobacco and want of repose. We could see the shores of Canada and its flat forests far across the waters, and I heartily wished those noble provinces happiness. September I6th. — There is a popular song of which a fragment is — " Nous aimons la Canaclienne, Avec ses beaux yeux cloux" — and some of their women are very pretty. We must not quite forget that even the old may rejoice in the Sim shine. As we approached Detroit, we crossed the first prairie, and I pointed out to my young companion a pleasing young lady, as the first prairie chicken. From an intelligent gentleman here, I learned they have a poor rate for those in illness, &c. — their local taxes are about Is. in the pound, or about half ours, whilst wages of all kinds are above one-half higher than ours. There are many nice villas, as of retired or rich persons, in and about this flourishing town. September 17M, Chicago. — At half-past seven by C 26 SHORT JOUllXAL OF A VISIT TO • ail, and arrived after some delay at one of the vast increasing cities of tlio West, at eight p.m. Much forest on our way, but also a good deal of cleared land, and some sturaj^y. Passed several pretty small lakes full of water-lilies, but no water-fowl but one heron, yet there are many wood ducks and China teal, as we saw in shops in Detroit. In near 300 miles we passed several wide-spread wooden villages, but only one small town. Churches however, wherever there are houses. The names of stations cause a smile, from their variety and comic contrast. To-day we had Romulus, Taylor, and Huron, Parma, Albion, and New Buf- falo. At the last, we came on the shore of the vast Lake Michigan, with many sand-banks. We passed to-day through large tracts of Indian corn, some gathered, much ripe, and the climate seemed warmer. The trees and shrubs are changing colour, to beautiful tints of red, brown, and yellow ; with climbing shrubs. The sky, blue and clear, as in Italy. On looking out at night at Detroit, the stars appeared without number. In approaching close to Chicago, we skirted the lake, and then passed on a raised platform through the water to the station, where the sensible American arrangement of numbering the packages with corre- sponding cheques saves all trouble. At the Tremont House, I found Mr. Wilkins, our Consul, ready to aid me in any way. Early we walked out to view the town, which is very extensive, well laid out, and i CANAKA AKD THE STATES OP AMERICA. 27 T jutcrsccted by broad canals or arms of tlie lake, .ncross which are vast bridges turning on a centre pivot, so as to leave two channels open for masted or other vessels. One side the town, with a walk and row of good houses, looks to their ocean lake. The town is, however, flat and low, and must, I fear, be unhealthy. It cannot be well drained, and often the small gardens and courts look damp. There is a resemblance to Venice about it, from the canals, bridges, boats, &c., and also from many large handsome blocks of houses of Eastern architecture, with round-headed windows and great cornices, resembling many of their palaces — iive storeys high, of brick, set off with stone, and decorated. But each Palazzo has some commercial inscription in large letters, to correct any fancy of aristocratic pride, such as " Iron- Stone Hardwares," " Shoe binding," " Railway Office," &c. The whole place seems busy, active, and prosperous. The population has doubled in ten years. The trade in corn and provisions from the wide West is enormous, and there is communication by river, and the great lakes and canals, for moderate-sized vessels, to the St. Lawrence and England ; to New York by the Erie Canal, and by rail to St. Louis and the Mississippi. September ISth, — This was the first night my bed was surrounded with mosquito curtains ; and on enter- ing them I felt rather like a young lady must, I suppose, feel on taking the veil. ^Here we had an omnibus-railway up and down one broad street, as at New "York. Here and at Detroit c2 28 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO wc saw proof of our American friciuls making the most of a situation, as their best hotels (the Russell and Tremont House) each had their fronts on the ground-floor let as several shops, and the hotels, mounting up stairs between, were in the first and other storeys above. 19M. — Went to the top of the Town-house, whence a complete view of the wide-spread town ; the vast lake on one side, and the prairie extending to the south-west. Many churches and new buildings. Accompanied Mr. Wilkins, the Consul, to the Ex- change, where numbers of brokers and much business by commission, chiefly in grain, flour, &c. (Sad want of sparrows to pick up large scattered samples ! ) Young Men's Library, &c., at 125. per annum, (three dollars,) Chess Club, Audubon Club. Whistling cranes, but few birds. Determined to visit Milwaukie, then visit Pera on the Avild prairie, in the way to St. Louis. No beggars in America. Hard work ; good pay. Procession with torches for Lincoln's election. All quiet and staring ; but little excitement, and no riots. Went by rail to Milwaukie on the lake, two hun- dred miles north, chiefly through forests, some wild clearings, and stump regions. Passed two small tOAvus on coast. One, Racine, (think of *-Li\l !) on a stream, but streams are very rare in the prairies. In Milwaukie much good new building ; twelve churches ; good port by inland water in docks within the town, as Chicago, but this place is better situated, '" . CANADA AND THE STATES Oi' AMEltlCA. 29 t1 \ higher and healthier, with rising ground in view. Mounted the Cathedral ; fine prospect all round. Tlic forests little broken to north-west. Wild deer and turkeys still in them, sixty miles to north. Here was the recent terrible loss on the lake of tlia steamer Lady Elgin, run down with loss of threes hundred lives. The town was in sorrow and mourii ing, and a subscription getting up. There is trade in vessels direct to Liverpool by the St. Lawrence of 350 tons. After looking again at the town, returned to Chicago. September 20th. — Proceeded by Illinois Railway to Pcra by eleven. Through vast open lands, and over one river running to Mississippi,"passiug with little rise from the vast basin of the St. Lawrence to that of the Mississippi. Pera is a lone place in the midst of vast prairies, where is a small inn belonging to Mr. Blackeney, son of an Irish M.P., who was to aid my views for a day's shooting. On the way, one intelli- gent American spoke of knowing Mrs. Croft, the fair daughter of Colonel Charlton, when Shropshire was spoken of. We set forth to shoot on the vast plains of waving grass and beautiful wild flowers, occasionally entering a rough spring cart, and passing over miles and miles of open, Avild lands, but rarely a small house xmd plots of corn. Often no house, tree, or rise for miles and miles : unutterably lonely ! My host and myself persevered till late, and though birds were very scarce, (except in one place,) killed 30 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO about six or seven brace. I killed my first prairie bird handsomely. At one place, near where some grain had been sown, and near large Indian corn plats, in the very midst of the prairie, we saw above forty on wing at once. We were nearly in the dark in this trackless district, without house or mark in view. The moon shone clear, and all was still as the desert : but, steering well, we got back. Five noble cranes crossed us high up. Some buzzrrds and the prairie lark, songless though l)cautiful, and larger than ours, were all we saw. Pcra. — At the station is put up. For sale, at long credit and low interest, over two million acres by the Illinois Central Railway Company. The average price about 10 to 15 dollars per acre (£2 to £3); some more, if partially cleared of weeds. Good black, light mould, good for Indian corn, and, if cleared and laid down, excellent grazing, but water pits to be made and shade scarce : clay at some dej)th, would do for brick. Irish helps here and everywhere. Poor exiles ! but doing pretty well, generally. Friday^ 2\st. — Took car in railway, Illinois Central, to Haut Terre, thence to Alton. First part, miles and miles of wide prairies, then more wooded. Crossed one river to west ; some villages of wood ; towns, Lich- field, &c. To Alton, on the Mississippi ; some rising ground, on which part of the flourishing town ; good Town-hall, several new churches, and other buildings ; many new houses — ow, on ! Alton. — Fine view, of course, of the Great River r ' CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 31 r and undulated country, but flat, apposite ; at half-past seven entered a noble steamboat of 900 tons, (the City of Alton ^ with three decks, grand saloon, &c., but only drawing light, 3J ft. The river very low, and about twice the width of Thames at Westminster. Our course, for twcnty-fivo miles, by low shores and many sand-banks, and passing the Junction from the west of the Missouri, bringing turbid waters to the great city. St. Louis. — On the way, saw several white and blue cranes; and at the wharf were numerous noblo white steamboats. To Barnum's hotel, whose son, an educated young gentleman, took us to the noble city library and lecture room, open to all on a small pay- ment ; books there, or out ; newspapers, &c. ; seve- ral portraits ; statesmen, Clarke, Lewis, 8cc. Three marble figures, by Miss Hosmer, — the Cenci, (Ji^none, wife of Paris, deserted ; Cupid, &c. Many fine new streets and buildings in progress ; great churches of all denominations ; more rapid advance, and more business in wharves and streets, than in any city wo have seen. Missouri. — We are now in the first slave state, and see several blacks ; our conductor quiet, but strong for the continuance of slaves ; says they are well used, better off, and all that I Child follows mother, not father's condition ; told us of a nice slave woman servant, married to a free black, and since in misery. Very warm again. St, Louis. — Ascended house for great view of town and district ; rather flat ; much building for miles 32 SHOUT jornxAL or a visit to along river and its slope upwards. Yesterday rather a trying day ; unwell, but saw much. It is a great country and energetic people — success to them ! with religion and freedom for glorious companions, across wild Avcstcrn regions. I find among all tlio more intelligent, and indeed all, a love for the Anglo- Saxon race, and much coui tesy to one from the old country come to sec them rather late in life. At Barnum's. — In this room, smoking, writing, and stretching one's self to full length on the sofa, will he considered a breach of good mannois. To- day, came in a roughish citizen in a frock covered witli Indian tags; he had just come with three others a canoe voyage of 3000 miles, down the Missouri, from the wild parts above Fort Benton. Indians pretty quiet, but he was ready for them ; bears, bisons and elks in those parts kept up excitement. Met Mr, Baring, M.P. Visited La Fayette Park, about twenty to forty acres, laid out and planted, but un- finished ; on the upper side the town with a fine view over part of the city and far across Missouri province, AYhen complete it will be a great boon. They have two other smaller parks or Avalks. Horse railways in the two widest streets ; one every ten minutes to La Fayette Park. Twenty-one large white steamers by the quay, plying to New Orleans and other ports. Intelligent persons say 10 per cent, may be had on safe mortgages here and at Chicago. Vast blocks of building, and many rows of houses and villas ; great business in streets, and especially on the quays. { CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMETlItA, C» ^ September 2Srd, Sundat/. — Church at St. Georg H^ All well dressed. (Query : Workers, wlierc ?) The Post-office ha« n separate entrance and office for hidies only, and another for German ladies : very courteous indeed. Great order in getting letters by all applicants going up in a long ro^v, one behind the other ; pretty Southern women, pale and delicate. Sad smoking, &c. 8cc., by all the men, lounging, and reading, and talking about the bar and rooms of the hotel. The ladies' rooms, however, kept pretty well. Mrs. Davies a ''pleasing pale flower, from Louisiana. Since we entered the United States at Detroit, vast quantities of fruit (apples, peaches) and sweet and cheap. September 24M. — Left St. Louis at seven ; arrived at Cincinnati at nine to ten, over the flat open plains of Illinois, with few villages, and monotonous. Then through Indiana ; passed the Wabash River, and then two branches of the White River : all tributaries to the Ohio. The flat land has no streams but the river, and stream land has hills and pleasant undulations, with forest and some stone quarries, and the first coal. Tedious journey : many low farmers drinking, chewers, &c., though smoking is kept to one carriage (the D 's own) ! The railway runs along the Ohio Valley ; for the last portion pleasantly bordered by wooded hills. Saw some blue cranes, one fishing eagle making his pounce on a fish. Parted with Mr. Baring, M.P., at Burnett's house : a vast hotel. September 26th, Tuesday. — Took a view of all c 3 34 SHOUT jouhnal of avisit to -« the town along tlio Ohio River, with Covinglou oppo- site, from the Observatory hill. Went to the l)aTikcr's ; made free of the great Mercantile library : saw Times, Death of lion. J. Fortescue ; Pechell, M.P. ; others with me. Called on Mr. J. Longworth, son of the great vine-grower. Saw Power's " Ginevra." Rather over-praised West's picture of J. Keml)le iu Hamlet; ** Europe's worst painter, and poor England's best," said Byron. After introducing myself with some useful modest assurance, and some courteous expressions, wo were invited to Mr. Longworth's country villa. East Walnut Hills, where we Avent through a hilly district. lie lias a beautiful and varied view from top of his house up Ohio Valley, and for miles round, of forest and vales. Saw a flight of wild pigeons going south. His pleasant lady promised me wild floAver-sceds ; and we chatted together about birds and poems, &c. Slio liked very much the old country, and admired Wales and Llandudno. A beautiful clear night home ; frogs singing a little. CataAvba grapes of natural growth, but improved by culture, and bottled, properly pre- j)ared for sparkling. The grounds nicely laid out ; scarlet oak, maples, English trees and shrubs also. Capital shops and warehouses here, especially for furniture. We heard of an amusing hoax played off at St. Louis, where the people are all on tiptoe for the coming of the Prince. Some one drove from the great ferry-boat a fine equipage and open carriage 0€\ CANADA AND TIIK STATES OF AMERICA. 35 ^liroiigh the town, with suite of tl)o supposed rriuco. Ho was got up well — only in red velvet mid i)urplo ! ■went all through the town, all waving handkerchiefs, 1 owing, ike. ; but, at last, it was some wild youths, with (it is said) a eertaiu young lady dressed up as the Prince, smiling and bowing. September 2Hth. — Went down the Ohio in a steamer as far as Lawrenceburgh. Fine river banks; Avooded somewhat like the Rhine, without any castles however. Some neat houses, and all cheerful and thriving ; well worth visiting, lleturned by railway through a pleasant country at night. A grand torch- light procession for Mr. Doughis, the candidate, all the town cjdling, hooting, and excited, but in good humour. The hotel full of all sorts of voters ami roughs, smoking, ha. &c., sad j)hice ! Booked through to Washington, Avith power to sleep as we like on the road. 29th, — Off early to Wheeling ; passing Cambridge, Columbus, &c., through a cultivated country at first, then through woods and hilly wild districts on our way to Bellair, but by too much haste the cars broke down near a very dangerous bridge ; fortunately none were hurt. Archer and I had to walk live miles, and cross three, step by step, bridges, but got safe, and are thankful for our escape. Slept at Wheeling ; finely situated on the Ohio, with fine wooded hills on each side, and a grand chain-bridge higher on one side next the hill to let masts under. ZOth, — From Wheeling to Cumberland, through the easi 36 SHOUT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO 'If ill; fine passes of the Alleghany mountains, and through continuous hills covered with forests for many rniles, the railroad being made with vast skill and boldness, with numerous bridges over ravines and tunnels, and close to deep dells, and climbing to Altamont, 2,400 feet above Baltimore, with fine woodland views. The day veiy clear, and the tints of autumn on the trees and slu'ubs most beautiful, from Piedmont lower hills to Cumberland ; one point where we got out near the river junction very fine and wild. A beautiful day's journey. One lady was travelling near 500 miles at once., from St. Louis, without stopping, and says the night cars are comfortable. (Query, over comfort- able is it ?) Cumberland, Saturday. — From hence at eight, to Washington about seven; out before breakfast, to see the mountains round Cumberland; somewhat like Stretton, but higher; Brown Church prettily placed on a picturesque knoll. No walk for all. Hence through fine hills, chiefly covered with timber, and along the windings of the Potomac river for many miles of very V)eautiful scenery. Bold engineering, and apjDa- rently dangerous travelling, from rapid turns and great pace. A beautiful road, whirling along just above the river, often cut out of the solid rock, and turning everywhere with the sinuous valley. The Virginian creepers of bright red on the trees. Found an agree- able and very intelligent companion in General Thomas I. M'Kaig, of Cumberland, Maryland, a member of the local legislature and a successful lawyer, (having CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 37 ' 'V; made a fortune,) also called General. He was derived from Scotch ancestors, but long settled here; said I was well known in the papers, &c., but I doubt if he had not (as well as Scotch cleverness) a little Irish blarney ! However, we had much pleasant talk ; he lamented the want of some slight qualification for voting here. He thought the payment of members would induce low demagogues to try to be elected ; and appeared to fear the necessity, for regular canvass and courting the passions and prejudices of the multi- tude would lead to great evils; saying, the best men of property and intelligence were prevented being can- didates, and would not stand. He gave an instance of tact in pleading before a Methodist jury for a railway grant, predicting thereby from Scripture phrase " many running to and fro in the earth" before Millen- nium, and succeeded. . Invited us, and is, perhaps, to call in London some day. Introduced to Mr. , Member of Congress; changed at West junction train. Before this, passed a beautiful and celebrated spot from recent events. Harper's Ferry. • A fine bridge and national armoury, with fine valley of broken waters. "Junction-of-trains" hotel; there I inquired as to Mr. C. Aglionby, late Yates, a cousin, and found he had a good house and estate about six miles off; was about forty-five, much respected. His father's name Yates. He (C. A.) had lately changed his name ; had a family, and farmed largely. His younger brother (a Yates) lived near him. Mr. M'Kaig knew him, and told me about his mmmmumtmmiitmmm I • t . f ■'I 38 SIIOKT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO handsome sister, now dead. So by Transatlantic cousins is likely to be upheld the old name of Aglionby. On by Elicot Mills and works on the river to flatter lands and Washington. fj^as /ling ton. — Here are we happily arrived, after a long journey of many, many miles, through prime- val forests and prairies, along vast lakes and rivers, and over large improving provinces of Canada, to the United States ; where we have seen the wonderful effects of freedom, energy, and industry. For the middle and working classes it is all the land of handsome promise and liberal reward. For the more educated and refined classes, there are considerable drawbacks. The rough demeanour, and rude and almost repulsive aspect of many you meet, in all railways and hotels, is disagreeable, especially to ladies. The constant smoking and chewing tobacco, with its results, are very disgusting. There is, on the other hand, habitual civility to women ; little intoxi- cation ; attention generally to domestic duties, and religious worship and education ; energy and industry. The railway for the multitude has many conveni- ences for rapid, cheap travelling — cheques for the baggage giving security and saving trouble. Iced water everywhere: papers and cheap works and fruit brought to all as they ride along, and other comforts unthought of with us. We find the poor Irish everywhere, as the labourers and workmen in hotels, &C.J cheerful, though still poor. May they also flourish and improve with all around them ! CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 39 tliintic ionby. flatter , after prime- rivers, to the iderful or the tind of e more lerable le and ill all illy to Dhacco, on the intoxi- s, and lustry. inveni- br the Iced s and other e poor nen in Y they -' We saw some large buzzards near the Potomac, but few birds, as before. As the wilder districts are passed, I shall begin a fresh manuscript for the eastern American cities. An advertisement in a Western newspaper is curious : — " Stolen, a Sorrel Marc, seven years old, weighing about 1100 lbs., and a black Jager Waggon ; the fore wheel making a crooked track. Was tracked towards the West Fifty dollars for the property and the thief." Waskington, October \st, Monday. — Having been prevented by heavy rain from going to Richmond as intended, we visited the principal buildings of this vast skeleton capital. The Smithson Institute for advancing learning and knowledge among men, founded by the bequest of an Englishman, son of the Duke of Northumberland, a curious >Ioresque-Gothic building of red sand-stone, ina large public walk or garden, contains a great col- lection of natural history, a library for general use, and lecture rooms. I called on Professor Baird here, who showed me the North American birds, a good collection ; but he confirms my belief that the extremes of heat and cold there, as compared with our climate, lessen the number of birds, and few of these are song- sters. We saw figures of their great cuckoo feeding on reptiles, and a curious Californian woodpecker planting acorns in the bark of trees (all over) for winter provision. On telling him of Sir E. Tennanfs account of the Ceylon Dove's soft voice, he said Audubon narrates tmmm \\ ?f 40 SHOET JOTJKNAL OF A VISIT TO the Florida dove's coo won a pirate of the reefs from the error of his ways. We saw here a traveller just come near 3000 miles by Missouri from among the wild Indians, (watching to slay him,) where are persons exploring and collecting for this Institution. The Stanley collection of Indian portraits contains the most terrible assembly of repulsive and cruel physiognomies (scarred and cut and painted by Satan's sons) that were ever seen ; terrific tales of horror belong to some of them. Hence to the Patent-office, where, in a fine stone building, are innumerable models of all sorts of ingenious contrivances to abridge labour and improve the comforts and conveniences of life. The cost of a patent is about sixty dollars, and lasts fourteen to twenty-one years. Here we met a Carolina planter, who strongly upheld slavery. He says there are several of the Moultrie family still here. We looked over the Senate House and House of Representatives at the Capitol, a noble building of white marble, commanding a fine view, and which dominates over the town and vicinity. Semicircles, like the Chamber at Turin, form the shape of the divisions of seats for the Senate and House of Re- presentatives. They are each large, oblong, square rooms, with galleries for spectators on three sides, one for ladies. Formerly, each seat had a small desk in front, which was lately removed, and is again to be replaced. Tlieir Commons House has far too much gilding, and CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 41 The retiring is not good for the voice, tliey say. rooms of the Senate very handsome, and the whole building of fine position, in white marble with great effect. There are some large pictures of great events in their history in the Great Hall, the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers, &c. October 2nd, Tuesday. — At seven, off by steamboat down the Potomac River to Acqna Creek, then rail- way, and so to Virginia's capital, Ilichmond. Pretty wooded hills on the banks of the river, not so high on the stream ; at first, wider than the Thames just beloAV London, thence Avider and wider, banks lower, passing by Mount Vernon ; the noble Washington's modest mansion, pleasantly overlooking tlie river from a wooded elevation near. The estate and place have lately been purchased, and will be repaired and put in order by the ladies of America. Generous and kind ladies ! The railway passes through an exlended region, indifferently cultivated or neglected, and through several forests and much light and indiffe- rent land, large fields, chiefly Indian corn and some tobacco, large tracts which have been cultivated pro- bably with long successive Indian corn crops and afterwards have gone into a state of nature, covered with wild weeds ; no green or refreshing crops. Few small holdings, probably none willing to come as free- men among slaves and work out their own little farms as in the North. Crossed Rapahanock river at Frede- ricksburg, the only stream almost for many miles. Richmond,— ^ii\Y several large buzzards or vultures 42 SHOET JOUKNAL OF A TISIT TO together, near the woods ; they say these arc not destroyed, as they only feed on carrion. An intelli- gent sporting M.D. joined us with a young slave- servant and two dogs, going to shoot in Florida. He speaks of much game there, deer, &c., but more in Texas, where he goes, and where arc still cougars, bears, &c. He says his gentle slave is a good hunting help, and worth 1,600 dollars (£150) to let out. On the road, most of the workmen are slaves, tilling land with two horses — few cattle — no green or pasture fields. Richmond, well situated on fine ridge of hill declining to the James River, and moderate hills and woods round. The Capitol, or Parliament House, well placed ; fine view, fine equestrian figure of Washington, on a pedestal, or large plinth, supported by statues of Henry Jefferson, Clay, and Mason. There is a small public walk round, with some seats, (which are rare in the United States,) the seats divided by upright boards, evidently to prevent the national custom of putting legs up at length. Never- theless, we saw one with knees bent over the division, so as to have his feet up. Saw a crowd assembled, ladies, &c., with many blacks and little black children, and soon Wise (an ^liironaut) ascended in a balloon, waving a flag and away gently towards the north-east. . This town has many warehouses for export of Indian corn, tobacco, &c., and shops to supply a large CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 43 arc not intelli- 5 slave- la. He nore in jougars, hunting It. On , tilling •een or of hill lills and House, ^ure of pportecl )n. h some lie seats ent the Never- l^er the h many ^ise (au lag and port of a large province. It is placed on James River, which enables moderate-sized sljips to come up into dock, and lower down is James's Town, (or its ruins,) an early settlement under James I., opening lower to Chesa- peake Bay, and dividing Maryland and Virginia. Few new buildings ; streets badly paved. Many mules are used here as cheaper and better for warm weather than horses. October Srd. — Visited those repulsive scenes, the Auction Rooms, (six different places,) in Franklin Street, Avliere poor slaves, of all ages and sexes, are exposed and sold by auction. The auctioneer goes from place to place, followed by a throng of men (coarse and hard agents and dealers) fit for such a business, wide hats, thin faces, not cruel but callous, and quite indifferent. We went before the sales, to see the slaves to be sold at each place. They sat on benches for view, opposite the seats placed for purchasers. All had been dressed a little for the occasion, and set up and made the most of. The men and boys looked generally stolid and insensible, but the Avomen with families often sad and downcast. I asked many questions quietly ; none hardly knew their age or why they were sold, except sometimes on the death of the master, sometimes for his debts. The auctioneer, a loud large man on a high bench, had each lot brought up to stand on a high exposed stand, to show off their teeth and hands, take off head coverings, &c. Then he sold them like brutes> f 44 SHOUT JOtTENAL OF A VISIT TO S-- y Si I trotting them out and clescauting on tlicir worth as likely lots, &c. The answers given to my quiet questions showed little, and often no religious instruction. Some had attended Baptist or Methodist chapels. Some were field hands, others house servants, none had characters for conduct or temper. The auctioneer and another said they wanted and judged by bodily personal power and appearance, and examination, and were chiefly brought and bought by traders ; he getting two per cent, on the sales. One poor woman (she and her child, almost white, and surely a white man's child, brought eight hundred dollars) was sold with her last little child of four years, six of her children having been sold from her before* Her husband was dead ; she and her child seemed sad ; I gave her a trifle to buy some apples, which the young one eagerly took to. Another woman, with her five small children, one in arms, Avas sold for debt, and her husband, kept by her master, brought 2,395 dollars, or about £450 ; she was sold because sickly. Two little girls, ages nine and ten, brought 650 dollars. They were made to show their teeth, asked what they could do ; and the man (with a grin from the auctioneer) if he could fiddle ; the mother made to take off her cap and show her neck, 3,800 dollars, or near £800. Little girl, Charlotte, nine years old, for 490 dollars, or about £100. Youths brought about 1000 dollars, or £200. Some were withdrawn, CANADA AXD THE STATES OF AMERICA. 45 ir worth s sliOAved ■)ome liad 3m e were •liaracters d another nal power I'e chiefly I two per 9st white, t hundred ibur years, ler before* 3med sad ; ivhich the nan, with sokl for , brought d because )ught 650 eth, asked grin from ther made DO dollars, years old, s brought ithdrawn, being bought i>rivately : among them, two rather fine young women who had been examined, and questioned by the dealers. One woman, with a little child almost white, smiling and stretching out its little hands unconsciously, fetched 1,065 dollars, or £200. One whole family — father, mother, and six young children (one in arms) — were sold together by an executor. The boys and young men were taken behind a screen, to be quite stripped and examined before the sale. The women and girls made to walk up and down, show arms, feet, &c. It was, on the whole, a sad, disgusting sight ; though the slaves (except the women with young children and some of the girls who appeared timid) seemed hardened, and almost insensible, which must be a blessing to them, so situated. A red flag displayed at each door, indicated an auction of slaves there, six in number. One auc- tioneer was advertised for the sale of Negroes. The numbers of black stolid and low countenances of slaves here, w^ould be, to me, a great drawback. There is little of the light of the intellect, or hope of improvement in such faces, though some of the young have a grain of coarse good humour and enjoyment of the hour, about them. The numbers sold were about seventy or eighty to-day, and nearly the same each day, being ;.ear 500 per week. In the evening, visited again the Capitol, and also "W 46 SHOUT JOLTRNAL OF A VISIT TO j the fiuc and high ground whicli commands the valley and distant country to the south, and the winding of the river through fiekls and woodland, somewhat resembling the view from ou7' Kichmond Hill, though inferior to it. There are some new villa houses building, with good views. A sweet flowering wild thyme grows on all the rubbish, and there is a fine site for a small public walk, which is talked of. Here I hastily wrote a few lines suggested by scones around me and scenes of other days. The indulgent will forgive. Richmond ! the word awakes the thought of many a pleasant day Of joyful youth, and landscapes bright and summer's sunny ray; O'er the wide scene of verdant hue where freedom's blessing spread, When gentle woman's light of life is o'er the meeting shed. In evening, there perchance is heard the whispered hopes of youth ; And angels, far above, may smile oh words of love and truth. So Richmond here hath landscape wide, forest and river sheen ; Nature hath here her azure sky, her carpet bright and green ; But here, alas I the tyrant frowns, the slave is sighing near, Here many a suffering woman droops to shed the silent tear. In vain are Nature's charms the same, in vain we hope to find Our joy in outward forms alone ; for/oy is in the mind ! Such thoughts be ours ; how ever far across the seas we roam. Shall teach us oft in distant lauds to bless our Island Home ! October Ath. — After one long look towards the far south, we turned with joy to the north-east, and took the train to Alexandria, and thence by steamboat to Washington, by three. A country with much wood, many lands neglected, and few houses ; no small proprietors ; poor slaves and slave children the chiet the valley v^iiiding of somewhat ill, though Lla houses ci'ing wild ! is II fine I of. Here lies around ilgcnt will pleasant day 's sunny ray ; m's blessing iig slied. •ed hopes of and truth, iver sheen ; md green ; ug near, ilent tear, lope to find nind ! as we roam, I Home ! rds the far and took eamboat to luch wood, no small the chiet CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. -17 working population. At a distance to the north, some fine hills. At Washington called upon Lord Lyons. Invited to the President's grand party to meet the Prince, ike. Card from his niece. President's Party for Prince. — The rooms are live in a suite, and there were the chief people of the vicinity ; also the Prince and his suite; Sir 11. Holland, and Mr. Wickham, and some Americans I knew. I was introduced to the President, a very large old gen- tleman, of intelligence and courtesy. The ladies fol- lowed the Prince about, and were introduced on all sides, till his young neck must have been tired with bowing, and I could understand Louis XlV.'s arrogant reply, that " The top of the room was where he stood.'* The young Prince was, however, very gentle and natural, obliging apparently to all. No uniforms but those of the United States, blue and gold, and a few ribands of ours, &c. Mr. Elliott, Lord Inchiquiu, &c. The gentlemen often acute looking, but few calm and self-j)ossessed entirely. The ladies, some pretty but pale, and not (on the whole) in figure or style having quite that kind of easy, graceful deportment which marks the fair ones of the higher classes in the isle we love. Fireworks in honour of the Prince ; many spectators outside gathered to get a glimpse of him. No refreshments but two large bowls of punch and lemonade in a corner, where some got a glass or two and a cake. It was, however, under all the circum- stances, a gratifying gathering and meeting of cour- ii 48 SIIOIIT JOURXAI. OF A VISIT TO 'i i .1. if i1 tesy between tho youug Prince of Britain and the President of u mighty nation, of kindred blood and habits to our own, amid many friends to freedom and its i)rogresH. October iith. — Called on Lord Lyon««, who promii^ed mc letters to aid my inquiries as to social imi)rovc- incnts. I again visited tho Capitol ; mounted up to sec the fine view of city and country, forest and river, and wished heartily success to the people, and that religion and freedom might flourish long over the vast regions of the West. Looked over the eight historic pictures in tho Great Circular Hall. 1st. Declaratio!! of Independence. 2ud. Surrender of Lord Cornwallis, 1784. 3rd. Washington resigning his Commission to Congress. 4. Capitulation of General Burgoyne at Saratoga, o. Columbus's Dis- covery. 6. Do Sotos of the Mississippi. 7. Embarka- tion of the Pilgrims from Delf-haven. 8. Baptism of Pocahontas. No letters from England. These great hotels have many conveniences for bachelors and people loving bustle. There is a constant going in and out of passengers, arrivals, departures, calling, running, lUcals, clattering at all meals of a strong white ware which will not break, and confounds all blows by its strength, and all quiet people by the noise it makes. Numbers of men in hats are smoking, lounging, (legs up,) &c. Tho ladies' room is the only peaceful place ; they look askance at you on entering, but with a little ro aiu find the .1 blood and freedom niid dio promised ial improvc- ouiited up to ist and river, pie, and that ng over the er the eight Hall. 1st. lurrender of on resigning )itulation of imlnis's Dis- 7. Embarka- Baptism of hotels have cople loving and out of or. running, white ware •lows by its it makes, iging, (legs )lace ; they ith a little CANADA AND TUE STATES OF AMERICA. 49 apology, and deferential manner towards thcamiables, I contrived to get up a little acquaintance, and was well received, especially if I gave accounts of the Prince and the reception at the President's at the White House. In the evening, went in two hours through a slightly waving country and woodland, with fine tints, to Barnum's Hotel, in the capital of Maryland, a large town of 300,000 people, with a port, trade, activity, and success. Visited the Cathedral, and saw many other churches ; several new. October 6fh. — Up before breakfast, and ascended the Grand Column of the Washington Monument, which commands a line view of all the city and suburbs ; though built, in part, on a ridge, it looks hence rather flat ; the port (a nook of Chesapeake Bay) spreading out to the east, and moderate elevations with villas and woodlands round. The streets all straight, and avenues cut each way. Went out by the convenient railway street-cars through the city to the new Park of 500 acres, of fine woodland and lawn, purchased by the city (wise people !) and to be opened soon. A fine situation, and will be of great value to all classes. Met Mr. Latrobe, & prosperous gentleman, one of the Park Commissioners, descended from a family of Huguenots, driven bore by persecution, like the Romillys to us. I greatly rejoice this great object is now taken up in America ; and I hope my humble efforts in Parliameai to bring public walks near cities 5a 81I0IIT JOirilNAt OF A VISIT TO i' 1 !) ; I III < i • i to notice in 1835, assisted the movement. Visited the port ; many schooners and traders, some large passenger steamers. There is a new steamer, (Wy- lan's,) shaped like a cigar, in the port, to go twenty miles an hour ! Philadelphia, Oct. 6, Saturday. — In the evening, by rail to the city of Philadelphia, or " brotherly love," crossing a moderately undulated, but rather flat country, and the Susquehannah, by a steam ferry- boat ; and arrived at the grand International Hotel, one of the finest in the United States, making up four hundred beds. Sunday, 1th. — Church. Walked over part of this clean, nice city, built on a very gentle slope from the river and port: the upper part, good houses; the middle, capital shops, warehouses, hotels, &c. ; the lower, wharves and marine-ware dealers, &c., &c. ; many churches, new buildings on the outskirts, and in all the sign of prosperity. Two of the squares within the town Washington and Independence, ( where the first De- claration was read,) have walks, seats and trees, also a number of half-tame grey squirrels, which run about and are fed by the people. Archer gave one an acorn from Baltimor-j; Park, and it was well received. Many of the public buildings are fine. The stones of the causeways are, some, of enormous size — seven yards by three. Called with some letters on Mr. Vaux and others ; and made acquaintance with Mr. and Mrs. Rutledge of New York, and some others. Philadelphia Penitentiary, Monday, Sth. — No CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 51 letters but from New York and Canada. Called on the Mayor, Avbo was very courteous and gave us introductions to see the Penitentiary, House of Refuge, Girard's College, &c. Wrote letters home, and afterwards visited the celebrated Pennsylvauian Penitentiary. The secretary, an intelligent man, answered freely my questions : the majority of the inmates are strangers ; the punishment is solitary confinement for various terms, chiefly for larceny. There is a cell, the grated door of which is opened only one-third, to hear the preacher on Sundays. The hapless inmate never comes out, but has a little court, twelve feet by ten, for air, walled up high, and has no window but a narrow strip looking up to the sky, and never is allowed out for exercise : injures health of some ; many return again. I saw an Italian Jew, a convert^ in one cell ; a weaver in another; three years each. The building radiate from one centre, so that you command all the different wards at once. It has some gardens within the walls, in which sick persons may, on medical order, work to recover. The walls are very high, with towers, like a small fortress : the intention good, but dreadfully, and I think, uselessly severe, especi- ally depressed persons and women. House of Refuge for Children. — Proceeded to the House of Refuge for Children near by. Has 200 boys and 60 girls, chiefly brought there for small crimes; many as obstinate or unmanageable children, on complaint of parents. They are taught trades of difFe- d2 i!) I Hi ! fi i I y 52 SHORT JOTTENAL OF X VISIT TO rent kinds, and seemed industriously occupied. Hours i up at five, prayers, &c. &c. ; eight to twelve, work ; one to five, work (four hours together, too long) ; ventilation, indifferent. The boys have generally good countenances, and seem not guilty ones. I found that parents pay nothing, which is a sad temptation to a poor harsh parent ; and on farther questions, I found the majority are sent in by step-fathers or mothers, which shows an evil tendency in the institu- tion. The girls are taught household work, washing linen, cooking, and were together and sang a hymn. The matron (from Ireland) seemed anxious to bring out good, kind. Christian qualities. A committee of ladies visit, and a kind friend sends presents of print, &c.; there is a library of fit books for their nse. The countenances of the girls rather narrow and repulsive. Mr. Naylor of Washington agreed with my belief, that both these well-intended institu- tions are somewhat defective, and cause evil. Girard College. — Girard College, for 300 orphans, founded by Stephen Girard, a Frenchman ; costing £100,000, they say. There are about ten acres of ground, in garden, shrubbery, &c., with a very fine white marble building, like an ancient temple, with noble portico, and side porticos of Corinthian columns. The rooms fine for Governors, classes, &c., and a staircase of marble leads up to a noble view cf this great city and suburbs, and the bay and river from the summit. The houses where the boys live are Ksoparate, but near. Each child must have lost his CAl^ABA AND THE STATES OP AMERICA. 53 > fathei* or both parents. Almost half the bequest must have been expended in a magnificent but almost useless building, and unless so directed by the will, it was wrong to do so. A recent act of the legislature forbids more than half a man's fortune to be left to public purposes, if he has a parent, child, or wife alive. Good ! This town has many street horse railway cars, conveniently s.rranged, which, for five cents, or 2Jc?., carry one anywhere on short distances out of the town, with very little shaking, and are found a great boon to many thousands, especially of the middle classes, and women. Some wide streets have two tracks, one each way. Other cars go up one street and down another parallel to it. The system of rapid washing and drying linen here is well worth also our consideration. A great election of members for this city is going on, who may influence the choice of President, eagerly contested by Douglas and Lincoln, for and against extension of slavery. They poll at many places; all of twenty-one, paying half a dollar poll tax, but not blacks. Fortunately the anti-slavery candidate iri elected. The Prince and suite are in the Grand Hotel, and keep the place alive. All the ladies are anxious to have a glimpse of him. October lOth. — Visited, with Mr. Barclay (to whom I had letters) and Hon. Mr. Vaux, the best school o£ the district, open to all, well managed, but appear *im—1f- j'tr..-?i-;r'-jts".'#r 54 SHORT JOURNAL OF A YISIT TO to me tradesmen's children, so well dressed ; the girls* countenances better than as if very poor ; this partly- owing to the situation of the school. The boys' school not enough ventilated ; and both have nine to twelve, and two to five, for lessons: too long together, for attention to health. The girls (150) sang me a nice song, I being intro- duced as an English M.P. and received with great civility. So I asked leave to thank them, and con- cluded with wishing "they might become the joy and support of their parents ; and, hereafter, the smiling and happy wives of their energetic and industrious countrymen." To Mr. Naylor, who has promised me books and valuable reports, I gave my little work on Sources of Happiness, as a remembrance. It seems there are here no special companies in which work- men have shares, Fairmount, — Hence by car to Fairmount, and round it, where we were close to the Prince, and thence by steamboat up the beautiful river Schuyl- kill, for ten miles, passing Penn's house (remarkable man !) and some nice villas, and returning by the cemeteries of Laurel Groves and Mount Vernon, beautifully situated with walks and groves near the river, and fine views. Many tombs and inscriptions simple, but indicating domestic attachment : " To our Mother, from four Children ! " " Our lost Babe." " Our Lost Lamb, from Parents." " My lost Hus- band ! " &c. Some simple lambs and doves tell gentle meanings, in lamenting friends. Letters, at length, CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. -55 from England. Thank Heaven, all our dear oncrf are well, but two friends and companions of life's former days, for years past, are gone : poor Robert Burton and Thomas Hunt, of Felton. Prepare ! poor fellows ! October 11. — Left the pleasant city of Philadelphia early by Reading railway to visit the Susquehannah region and the valley of Wyoming, hallowed by Campbell's poem and remembrances of sad event.s. Ascended Schuylkill valley for miles, through Reading (like its namesake with us), Hamburgh, and some small nice places. By degrees we rise into a wild, Avooded, hilly region for many miles ; rocky, no enclosures. A large tract, where still linger the deer, and now and then a bear is found. The colours of the trees and shrubs most beautiful in the varied tints of autumn — red, brown, yellow, &c. Thence descending gradually, near Rupert, to the valley of the Susque- hannah. We had to wait two hours at a small lone place, and met an intelligent landlord. Thence, through fine scenes and hills, at dusk to Kingston, near Wilkesbarre, where we slept; and early went on by carriage to see Wyoming, its vale and little town. The Monument of the American misfortune and massacre by the cruel Indians has the names of many sufferers — Ozias Yale among the rest,' reminding me of a kind old friend. The vale is wide (two miles in places) and fertile, bounded by high sloping wooded hills j the Susque- r-~f'^' de SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO lianuah passes along it and breaks into the vale higher up, through a gap in the hills, by which the Indians descended to their fell enterprise. A high tree above the rest, on summit of one of the mountain chains, is called the umbrella tree, and was the place the Indians used to climb to to look out on their victims in the valley. A great stone, near a lone tree not far from the monument, is the spot (Bloody Rock) where the cruel Queen of the Indians (it is said) scalped her poor victims, tied to each other, with fiendish exclamations. Relics of Indian arrows, &c. are still found in this district. Gathered some Wyoming willow as a memorial to try to plant in England. Now all here is peaceful and improving. Two churches and chapels, near villas and houses, and good cultivation and comfort where, eighty years ago, all was desolate. October I2tk, Friday. — Hence, half-past eight, to New York by five. After ascending the Susquehannah, and seeing several new coal works, now fast extend- ing, we climbed through woodlands higher and higher, till we came, for many miles, into a stony region of tinted forests extending far and wide ; as we could look over a comparatively lower country for twenty miles each way, all woo d, to a chain of hills in which was a great gap formed by nature's change, through which passes the Delaware river by a noble opening in the rocky mountains. Before this, pro- bably the whole of the lower part was a vast lake. Hence the country became lower, tanjed, ^nd more CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 57 improved ; aud as we passed through Jersey country, many pleasant villas and nice small white dwellings appeared, with comfort and cultivation. So, l>y Elizabeth Town and the large town of Newark, and then across a wide low marsh (unhealthy) by ferry to New York, and got in at the Grand Hotel of the Fifth Avenue, where was the Prince of Wales and his suite. I found a ticket for the grand ball ; which I attended, and saw every form of fair ones, from the pale and interesting looking Northern lady, to the animated Southern beauty, with the eyes of Italy or Spain, flashing fire and animation, or with the *' high donna's melancholy or pensive glance." This great reception to our Prince was given in tUeir Opera House, by the city of New York ; the pit, &c. being boarded over. A great crowd of persons ; the ladies a little over- dressed, having somewhat exaggerated what I have named their arriere pensee or after thought, besides inconvenient trains, and often immense nosegays. The trains often became trodden on and entangled — to the grief of the fair wearers, and the confusion of the legs of mankind, who got thereby into what merchants term an embargo. All were looking for the Prince ; and when a lady on tiptoe spied him out, — " Dear ! how gentle and innocent he looks ! " quoth America's bright daughter. Some American uniforms, otherwise all as usual. The tiers of boxes filled with a brilliant animated company, rather eager, but happy-looking ; the floor D 3 58 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO I •; f ;i of the whole house covered with groups, all striving forward. Splendid lights, and bright expectations. The word was just given by a leading manager for "God save the Queen!" "Hail Columbia!" and a slow promenade before the Prince ; this was just begun, and all were smiling and bowing, when the envious Fates caused a crash, and part of the floor gave way, causing great confusion and some alarm. However, no one was hurt ; ladies floated away from the abyss, a rope ring was formed round, workmen (tame in, hammering to repair the damage, and loud music drowned the noise. A skilful popular diversion to supper called many away, and soon all was repaired ; and, in an hour or rto, fear vanished ; dancing began, and the Prince led the way gaily over the dangerous ground. The stand-up supper in an adjacent gallery was well managed, letting in large groups successively. I wandered about, watching the varied countenances and often characteristic and original physiognomies of our Western cousins. The gentlemen seemed in varnest at supper, and the ladies (like ours) not objecting to a glass of sparkling champagne, properly j>reseHted to them, with that deference to the sex which is a graceful attribute and custom of tlie Americans, and should cover a few faufts which it would be invidious to mention. I met Mr. Cassell and Mr. Baring, (M.P.,) but never got to the Prince's suite. It waa a splendid spectacle, of kind popxilar feeling towards our Queen and people. I CAXAD.i AXD THE STATES OF AMERICA. 50 I walked home, in* a cloudless night of starlight, through streets of well-built dwellings and vast shops and warehouses. October 13M, Saturday. — Though late in bed, I was up first, eager for letters, but none came. This " Grand Hotel " is quite full, and the passages and saloons filled in the evening with numbers of visitors waiting for a glimpse of the Prince. So I saw, but did not at all envy the ante-chamber of princes. We visited the New Park now forming, which will be a great ornament and blessing to this vast increasing city. It occupies nearly 500 acres of stony land, and has walks, seats, and views. Success to the effort now making, through all these Eastern cities ! It is a real civilizer, and will be a great comfort to all. One part is called the *' Ramble.'* Returning in a street car by Sixth Avenue to the other end, to the port, we viewed the Battery Walk on the quay, the numerous vessels from all parts (England most). Called on Mr. Archibald, the Consul, whose secretary promised me all aid. At Cunard's office, I learned Judge Haliburton was gone home about the 6th, and could have seen, I fear, little of the Western cities or country. Called also on Mr. C. Pryme, Seventeenth Street ; he came and introduced us to the Athenasum, a pleasant club for papers, &c., 108, Fifth Avenue. In the evening a grarid procession of the Firemen Companies, with engines, torches, decorations, all in red jackets, and vast bands of music, fireworks^ &c. in honour of the 00 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO ;i . ji i I'rincc. Multitudes of spectators, all happy and orderly. Firemen. — These fire companies are formed of volunteers, chiefly artisans and workmen, finding iheir dress, but aided by subscriptions from the fire- oiTices, and sometimes by Clubs and others for party j)urposes. Many of the members are rather irregular bachelors, sleeping in the tents or huts of the Fire Companies. They have occasional days of exhibition and training ; and, probably, the institution is a useful siifety-valve for exuberant spirit and innocent excite- ment. Broadway is not so broad as I expected, but has Fome fine buildings, and vast mercantile activity towards the lower end (like Cheapside) ; only the } lavements are crowded with goods, packages, bales, &c. October ^th^ Sunday. — Numbers at twelve tables at breakfast, in a great saloon ; I try to converse with those near me, and generally find them courteous and communicative, (not impertinent or inquisitive,) and proud of Anglo-Saxon origin, and English habits, feelings, literature, &c. The ladies not repulsive, l)nt soon chat about the Queen, the old country, &c. and like to show they have been in England, seen France and Italy, &c. We went to what was called Dr. Cheapin's Church in Broadway ; a very full and respectable congregation, and heard a very remark- able and able sermon. Our preacher was rather CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 61 stout, with dark beard ; proachod from notes, with great fluency, power aud earnestness, and kept up constant attention, though rather too energetic in voice and action, perhaps, for the first class. After showing that life was a constant combat between temptations, sensual appetites and low passions, against virtuous resolutions, resistance to evil, and the resolve to try to do our duty to God nnd our fellows, ho showed forth the blessing of putting our firm trust in Christ, striving to follow his example in heart and hope ; and that, if only firm and earnest, we should find aid and help in prayer, and inward assistance cheering us through all trials. Then adverting sud- denly to events around us, said, *' I cannot avoid calling to your minds, thoughts — grateful thoughts — on what you have seen aud felt during the past week, when this mighty, energetic and free city came forward in a noble, spontaneous and according move- ment of all ranks, orders, and occupations, to show their good feeling to a great nation, and to the royal son of an amiable and admirable Queen, whose virtues and example in domestic life are an honour to all her people. It is not for royal blood, or crowned rank alone, that this willing respect is paid. It is for worth and goodness, and the hope that they may benefit and bless millions of free, enlightened, religious men, for years and years to come. Why did our multitudes of every class and station line our crowded Broadway for hours, and long tedious hours, of wait- ing ? Not for a gaud or a gala, but, urged by remem- 62 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO I i, ! ! brances of thoir own free origin, of their identity in feeling with that people who have sustained the great C5,use of liberty in progress throughout the world. "We cannot forget we derive from the people who obtained Magna Charta and the Bill of Rights, and who have ever stuggled for freedom through ages past. *' Their literature is ours also ; the same noble lan- guage in which sweet Shakespeare sang, and gifted Milton wrote, still is hallowed by the talents of those whose writings are read in both hemispheres by mil- lions of the Anglo-Saxon race. " Long may such feelings prevail between us, so as to benefit each other ; and by glorious efforts devoted to the same great end, to uphold civil and religious; freedom throughout the habitable globe ! Here, where every man has a share in electing his ruleis, it is truly a grateful observation to make, that in a time of great excitement— when multitudes from this mighty city were gathered together, first in long crowded rows, to receive and do honour to the Prince in the day, and again, When at night the volunteers and firemen in their beautiful procession for hours passed in by torchlight through the streets to show respect to our great country's royal guest, —- amidst all order and good feeling prevailed, all gathered and dispersed with good humour and regularity. ** Let us be grateful for the blessings we 6njoy, and pour out our gratitude in prayers to the King of kings!" CAXAT)A AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 63 entity in the great ""orld. ople who jhts, and igh ages oble lan- d gifted of those by mil- as, so as devoted 'eligioua Here, ulers, it at in a om this in long Prince unteers ' hours o show amidst ed and >y, and ing of October I5th. — Out early, to get some of the amus- ing Comic Journal about the Prince, 8tc. Numbers of well-dreHHcd persons crowding round the hotel to witness his departure. Mr. C. Pryme, our pleasant acquaintance made on Lake Champlain, a barrister and popular writer, called, introduced us to the American AthenoRum Club, and afterwards we went with him to the Cooper Institute, wljore Mr, C(x>i»c'r, nn opulent manufacturer who has madehi^ own fortuut;, has built a vast edifice of five storeys, and given to tho public benefit. It cost, it is sfJd, f 60,000 ^ it comprlfje^ various lecture-rooms, a fine lilu-ary and ren.Mng-room for men and ladies, rooms for ieoturcrs on an, manhe- matics, &c., and for artistbof both soTtea focojv bwsU, statues, &c.: many were so en.<^ageU in i« small gallery of pictures, natural history, &c. Thf lower part kl for shops, to pay the professors. The liberal f^>uor, r, cheerful grey-haired man, went with nc siu abort. A liberal spirit seomp to pervade tbesu wcKchants. From the top of the building, a noble view of ^he city, port, river, &c. Hence to a vast book and pvinfing warehouse, by Messrs. Harper and Brothers, on immense building with every kind of imp.:' oved machinery for printing, binding, finishinjj, Stc., employing 400 men and 200 women, ond sending forth volumes without count to this rapidly increasing and well-educated people. Many new and fine buildings in our walk, and many more erecting. The lower part of Broadway, and busy parts to- I'i: ( I 64 SHORT JOURNAL OP A VISIT TO wards the banks and port, crowded with industrious and eager pedestrians and many omnibuses, but the pavement is very indifferent. New words up around us; bakery, smithing, panicky, furnituring. Fifth Avenue Hotel. — This vast hotel (FifthA venue) excels even the Continental at Philadelphia in size, makes up five hundred bed-rooms, has an immense dining-room for three or four hundred, besides two smaller for breakfast, and suites of four rooms for ladies ; drawing-rooms, corridors of great length and capacity, private rooms also — and smoking-rooms, all full of smokers ; a " lift " for baggage and guests in a little parlour going up by machinery ; twelve billiard tables bt^ow, &c. Two dollars and a half per day, and very full. Hudson River, — Up at five ; at six, off to go up the Hudson River, but finding no steamboat, went up by rail, and crossed to West Point, a most beautiful spot, where is a military college, and noble views up and down the river : it varies in width, has fine hills and cliffs, covered with wood on either side ; many pleasing seats, of merchants and others. The whole water animated by numerous vessels, in full sail, crossing each other, ascending or coming down ; three masters, brigs, schooners, &c. From Fort , which we climbed to above West Point, was a grand view for miles up the river, and, far off in the dis- tance, the Catskill Mountains. Met the Prince and suite on his departure : a salute was fired and returned by the steamboat. Beautiful weather ; the tints of CANADA. AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 65 strious 3ut the around venue) in size, imense les two ras for ;th and >ms, all ts in a billiard er day, go up ent up autiful ws up le hills many whole sail, three grand le dis- [;e and urned nts of autumn lovely. Met here a fine young American, (officer, I think,) who was very courteous : it is won- derful here, how we always agree ; the Anglo-Saxon race is the finest in the world. In returning saw much shipping ; quays and streets were crowded with packages, &c. ; part of this is owing to the want of docks and warehouses as those at London and Liver- pool. Still it is a wonderful active city and people. It is said they arc great speculators, and are seldom contented with a fortune, without trying double or quits, which turns out quits sometimes. 17^^.— We went to the city of Brooklyn, a great suburb across the river, and thence by railway car to Greenwood Cemetery, two or three miles farther. It is of several hundred acres, laid out with walks and drives, beautifully undulated and commanding fine views, one to ^he vast Atlantic ; and I was ready to exclaim, like Dr. Johnson, in Scotland, " That's the view for me ! " The inscriptions generally bespeak a people of much domestic and home attachments, which seem the case " To our lost Mother," " To the best of Wives," " To my lamented Husband," " To our dear Freddy,'* ** Our lost Lamb." " A dear Daughter departed," &c. Brooklyn has many good houses and many more buildings ; joining somewhat as Birkenhead to Liver- pool. Port full of shipping, and all active. Evening at AtheniEum Club, with Mr. Pryme. He told me, that when out shooting on a wild lake in the forests, he gently dropped his boat along the shore ( ! 66 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO ! I i with pine-torches blazing in the bow, and saw a bright pair of eyes gleaming through the darkness on the margin, and another bright pair thirty yards above them on the rock. He and his friend in the boat fired at each simultaneously, and found dead a deer below and a cougar above. That was wild sport ! He states the number of migratory birds, ducks, plovers, &c., as very great at some special seasons, but other game is much scarcer and receding. They have here, as I saw, wooden painted figures of ducks, plovers, pigeons, &c., to decoy down (like flur birds) the wild ones, and thus get many. An edition of Isaac Walton's book is published here, and many are fond of fishing, and have all sorts of tackle, spinning baits, otters, &c. October 18M. — Went with Mr. Pryme to see the workshops of the Tribune newspaper ; wonderful machinery to save labour, place types, &c. Too hot for the men. The superintendent and some others have shares in the profits, and so far it succeeds well. Called on the British Consul, Mr. Archibald ; an intelligent man. Got back a parcel from Mr. Brewer, and found a present of wild seeds from Mrs. Morse of Boston (whom I got to know at Niagara), with a very courteous letter, October \^th, — Early up and away for the steam- boat up the Hudson to Poughkeepsie, seventy-five miles. Viewed again this beautiful sea-loch edged by mountains, rocks covered by woodlands in bright autumn attire, varied by pleasant towns, handsome Lid saw a irkness on ards above boat fired [eer below He states 31*8, &c., as 3r game is ted figures [own (like published re all sorts to see the wonderful Too hot me others eeds well, libald ; an r. Brewer, . Morse of nth a very the steam- venty-five 1 edged by in bright handsome CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMEBICA. 67 mansions, and ornamented cottages, with numbers of vessels sailing up and down. Passed again West Point, &c., and stuv all the best scenery, and returned by railway. We met and lad pleasant talk with a Mr. Ilussey, a great English traveller in the East, Spain, Italy, Syria, &c. ; an old bachelor. Much shipping and river craft lying at the wharves ; but there seem few docks, which crowds the port. Saw Washington Irving's " Sunnyside" and in the evening went, at my young friend's wish, to see Miss Cushman as Meg Merrilies. She performs effectively a dreadfully repulsive character, of a yellow, dirty demoniacal looking hag, so gloivering and threatening as to cause horror, and gain unthinking plaudits. Disliked il\Q whole, wishing to preserve the opinion (not illusive, I hope) gathered through happy years of bygone life, that women have rather the vocation of gentle angels, shedding sunlight and happiness around them, than the attributes of devilish witches, striking terror to all. My impression is, her name should be changed to Miss Crushman. Saturday, Oct. 20. — Paid joyfully our passage, by Cunard's Africa, for Wednesday next. Saw Mr. Cunard, who says Judge Haliburton has gone home: Purchasing firs, views, &c., preparing for home — what a delightful word to one travel-worn and older grown ! The street cars and steamers give great conveniences at a cheap rate here. Down Broadway (the chief street) are lines of white omnibuses plying backwards and forwards, sometimes ten in a row, and in the busy r ! 68 SHOUT JOrRNAL OF A VISIT TO lower parts it is difficult to cross : our hosts here have kindly provided well-appointed policemen at most of the chief crossings to assist ladies, women and children across, and they are very useful, they deserve our imitation. They want, however, half way refuges, in crossing, such as we have lately. New York. — This, the largest town of America, contains (with its suburbs) above a million of people ; its many buildings are increasing. It comprises, in the upper and better part, many good houses of the opulent merchants, retired capitalists, and professional men ; has fine shops and warehouses lower down, and near the long quays are innumerable stores, ware- houses, and depositories for traffic from all countries. Habits .-—AW seem busy, rather anxious, pallid, but with an onward expression of features. No one scarcely walks slowly, or saunters ever. There seems no repose in the race : few beggars, however, and little poverty, save of the Irish immigrants. I cannot find books of natural history or field-flowers, like our White's Selborne, and others of our charming authors. It is perhaps too soon to expect quick observers of nature or poets among our transatlantic relatives ; but for railways, steamboats and inventions to save labour and create dollars, they are truly a great people. Likewise they have excellent schools, open to all ; many admirable public charities, plenty of churches and chapels ; seem attentive to religious and domestic duties, and attached to their wives and families, •yhey seem to be just fitted for the great and noble CANADA AKD THE STATES OF AMERICA. 69 \ here have at most of id children eserve our ij refuges, f America, of people ; mprises, in uses of the professional down, and ^res, ware- countries, pallid, but No one here seems wrever, and I cannot rs, like our ug authors, bservers of relatives ; ons to save •eat people. )en to all ; )f churches nd domestic id families, t and noble work they have before them, to spread civilization and freedom through this vast continent. The manners of the men are not always veri/ polished : they smoke and ( oh dear ! ) spit for ever ! put up their legs too .juch ; and sometimes even the ladies forget a fork and handle chicken bones ! But these arc minor matters, and will, perhaps, pass away. We were again joined here by Mr. Martin, a young civilian on leave of absence from China, who came out with us. He has been shooting in the Far West, in Wisconsin ; and has killed, since he saw us, three bears, thirteen I elks, many deer, and countless prairie chickens, quails, &c. He talks of returning from England again, this way, to China. October 2\stf Sunday. — Busy about the town. Few books of natural history or field botany. To church. Prevented dining at Mr. Howard's ; went to Mr. and Mrs. Pryme in the evening; pleasant conversation on many topics. Local taxes here heavier than ours. Customs seem the only central State taxes, no excise, no stamps, local taxes by a sort of income, or rather property tax, calculating the capital at two-thirds, and the income of it at 6 per cent. . Met a pleasant Georgian lady who wished me to visit the South ; also again the Tennessee nice widow, Mrs. Dechaine, but I suggest Des Chenes, as her husband was of an old Huguenot family, driven here by religious persecution, years ago. October 22nd, Monaay. — Bought some little pre- sents — fresh influx of visitors, packing, &c. Met Mr. 70 SHORT JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO -*' Parker, Miss Darwin's nephew ; lie has met all courtesy : returns before Christmas. 2Zrd. — Called to see the Africa^ afterwards to the New Park, and round it to the Ramble and the View. Many workmen employed ; well laid out walks, drives, waters, trees and shrubs planting, rocks clearing. Many carriages, and some rides ; extensive views. This will be a vast benefit to all classes, and permit them a little contemplation, repose, and relaxation ; much wanted here especially. Got some cheerful letters from home, and thank God for many things ! October 24:thf Wednesday. — On board at half-past eleven, across Jersey Ferry, and right glad I was to enter the Africa for dear old England. Passed most busy crowded streets of this vast and prosperous city. At one, steamed down the fine harbour, and out through the Narrows to sea, passing and meeting many vessels. Bade adieu to the gradually lowering, lessening shores of this free, prosperous, and hospitable country. Long may the Anglo-Saxon races, enjoying freedom and amity together, lead the world onward in' improvements for the good of all ! till at length a brighter, happier, era may appear to other nations and peoples, so long depressed and suffering. Found some pleasant shipmates. Family from Vancouver's Island, having crossed Panama in three hours by rt^ilway ; Lord and Lady Chandos, and CANADA AND THE STATES OF AMERICA. 71 met all 'ds to the he View. lS, drives, clearing, e views, d permit taxation ; nd thank half-past I was to ssed most rosperous and out meeting lessening 3 country, freedom iward in" length a r nations lily from , in three idos, and Mr. Tootsh. Received " Boat Life in Egypt," and " Tent Life in Syria ;" two nice works of his, from Mr. C. Pryme, who travelled through both countries with his pleasing lady also. She was so kind as to send, through me, a handsome volume, nicely illus- trated, as a little gift to my wife, whom she has nev^r seen. Early on our voyage, I was pleasantly recognised by my Roman acquaintance, Miss Ilosmer, and we had much agreeable talk together ; she is on her return to the Eternal City, and is an agreeable and intelligent, as well as a gifted and somewhat independent woman. I ventured to give her another commission for a work of hers, as she sent me so charming a copy of the Apollo. Found several other very intelligent fellow- voyagers ; one has crossed the great Atlantic twenty times. Lord Chandos I find very intelligent and agreeable. He deserves the good opinion of all. At sea^ November 2nd, Friday. — Fine for three days, then cross winds and a rolling vessel. Most passengers disappeared for a considerable time. I pretty steady, but tired by the stress on the frame and little sleep. Still, we look to see dear Old England, and cherished friends there, in a few days only, D.V. In the watches of the lone night, thought on many events of former years, with earnest prayer to " Our Father." Once, unable to sleep, I rose, and went on deck for a bit at 3 a.m. Nothing could exceed the beauty of the heavenly bodies. One brilliant star (Jupiter) shone like a sparkling diamond in the blue 1 '1 72 SHOBT JOUKNAL OF A IT TO expanse. The vast Atlantic spread on every side (without a sail) heaved its calm billows in majestic silence and solitude. — Scenes like these should awaken thoughts not to be forgotten. Saturday. — Adverse winds. A poor blackbird has followed the ship for many hours against the wind, 500 miles from land. We were twelve days on our passage, with adverse winds, but found some agreeable companions at our table. Also my Roman acquaintance. Miss Hosmer, the clever lady sculptor from Boston, returning to Rome. With these and some intelligent Americans we be- guiled the time ; called at the Cove of Cork ; and early on the twelfth day I saw with joy the moun- tains near Holyhead ; and, soon after, my wife kindly came off to meet us at Liverpool, and that evening we got safe to our welcome home in Shropshire. P.S. — Since the Author's visit to America, civil war has unhappily broken out, and is likely to be the cause of wide-spread misery and suffering ; and to stop those improvements which it was a pleasure to contemplate. The friends of humanity must earnestly hope that tranquillity may soon be restored. Having had the good fortune to visit the American States whilst peace and union prevailed, the Author has some satisfaction in bearing his willing testimony to the intelligence, industry, and extraordinary to every side in majestic lese should lackbird has 3t the wind, irith adverse aions at our iss Hosmer, feturning to leans we be- ' Cork ; and T the moun- wife kindly ; evening we ire. merica, civil ely to be the ing ; and to k pleasure to ust earnestly ed. be American , the Author ig testimony xtraordinary < AN ADA AXl) THK STATES OF AMTRTCA. 7;j enorgy of tlio poople generally ; to the uUrnctive qualities of the gentler sex, likely to insure happiness at home^ and to many, endowments among all, wel worthy of their Anglo-Saxon origin. lie has to return his grateful thank.s for much kindness and courtesy he received on his tour, and deeply deplores this dark cloud which now over- shadows wide-spread provinces which he so lately saw flourishing and happy. Tirr, F.XD. Printed hx Kjiitv FAiTiinrLi, & Co., Victoria l*resn, (Cor tlie Kmploymcnt of AVomen,) Orcat Coram Street, W.C, HV T|i(.; SAMC UTII(>1{, 1. Am ICssay on (h,; iJcncHciaJ Direction of liural i'-Kpemli(uro. Fop. Hvo. (I.v. (i./. Lnn-man.. II. All Outline of the Smaller Britisli BircLs. 1,,. tcnd(.(l for the use of Ladies and Youno- IVrsons Second Edition, Fcp. Hvo. 4,v. (,V/. l.ono.uans. III. jReports on the Education (18.S8) and Ilealtli (lcS40) of the Poorer Clnsses in hiro-o Town;i. J.(,n