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32X

LIFE AND LABOUR

IN THE

FAR, FAR WEST.

LIFE AFD LABOUR

IN THE

FAR, FAR WEST:

iBemg: d^otesi of a Cour

i»

THE WESTERN STATES, BRITISH COLUMBIA, MANITOBA,
AND THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORY.

«Y

W. HENRY BARNEBY.

WITH SPECIALLY PREPARED ilAP, fiUOWiyG THE AUTHOR'S ROCTE.

CASSELL & COMPANY, Limited:

LONDON, PARIS & NEW YORK.

[all rights ukserved.]
1884.

18 7 8 7 4

iln illemoriam.

IN AFKKCTIONATI-; lUlMKMllRANCK

lib

MV FlUENH AMt I'ELI.OW TUAVELLKH,

CHARLES xAIEYSEY I'.Ol/roN t!LlVE.

l.ntv (>/ ll'hitlirlil, llmfurdshire,

THIS VOI.l'MK IS DKDICATED

HV '

THE AUrilOIi.

PREFACE.

This volume is an actual transcript from a journal
kept during* a tour made in North America in the
spring and summer of 1S83, in company with \y two
friends, tlio late ^leysey Clive, of Whitfield Court,
County of Hereford, and my brother-in-law, Arthur
Mitchell, of The Ridge, AViltshire.

Our object was not only to enjoy a pleasant trip
and to see as much as we conveniently could of a new
country, but also to collect as much information as
possible, more especially as regards farming and emigra-
tion, in the hope of thus being able to assist those in
England who might be thinking of seeking a new home
across the Atlantic. There was a kind of unwritten
agreement among us, that whatever information we
might be able to procure should, in one form or
another, subsequently be made available to those in-
terested in the subject; and in pul)lishing the present
volume (which I do with the full concurrence of the
late Meysey Clive's friends, and also with that of
Arthur Mitchell), I feel that I am but following out
the wishes of that valued friend and pleasant fellow-

viii

VUEFAGE.

tnivollcr, wliosc illness and death brought our travels
to so sad a termination.

Clive and I were old friends; wo lived in the same
county, and had known each other IVoui childhood, and
a close friendship had for g-enerations existed between
our families. The other member of the l)arty (Arthur
Mitchell) only joined us just before we started, and was
])reviously unacquainted with Clive ; but from my ex-
perience of him as a travellini^ companion in the
dilferent journeys we had made to^'ether in Uussia,
Sweden, Norway, Denmark, and other countries, 1 had
no hesitation in feeling that he was just the man to
make our trio a well-assorted one.

• This journal was written during our travels. In
fact, I sent it home to my wife by instalments, on loose
paper, which saved a repetition in letter-writing ; and,
besides, I should not have had time to write two full
descriptions of what we were doing.

Upon my return homo I found a large portion care-
fully re-written by her in a book ; and it is to this care
and industry that the public and I are indebted for the
present volume ever seeing the light at all ; and I for
one am sincerely grateful to her for the trouble she has
taken in thus assisting me in the matter. As stated,
this journal was written whilst on our travels ; and at the
time of writing I had no thought whatever of publish-
ing it in book form. It has been merely completed

rUKFACE. is

since my return to Kii«jfljin(l, and in it I simply place
before my readers my actual im})ressions as they oc-
curred to me on the spot.

I am also indehted to my friend, Mr. BailHe-
Grohman (author of "Camps in the Uockies") for his
contribution of the very interestinj^ chapter about the
Kootenay district in British Columbia, '<vhieh will be
found in the Appendix. It was a source of much
regret to nv that I was unable to join in the proposed
expedition which he and Clive arranij^ed to make ; but
it was absolutely impossible for me to do so, on account
of an engaL^ement for the LSth July to form one of a
party travelling in Manitoba and the North-West Terri-
tory, which engagement was in fact the original reason
for this my second expedition to America. The perusal
of this chapter tends only to sharpen the appetite, and
makes mc very wishful to visit that district some day
in the future, should I ever find myself again on the
other side of the Atlantic.

It only remains for me to add that this is my
first — as it probably will be my last — venture as an
author ; and I trust the perusal of this volume may not
prove uninteresting, especially to those who asked for
its publication. That I was acceding to their wishes
must be my apology for " rushing into print."

W. H. B.

Bredcnhury Court, Herefordshire,
May, 188-i.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

EN ROUTE.

The start — A Narrow Escape — New York — Kailway Travelling in America
— American Hospitality — St. Louis — Denver — Manitou— Tne Ute
Pass— The " Garden of the Gods "—Pike's Peak— Crystal Park .

CHAPTER II.

THROUGH MORMONLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO.

Pueblo — 'The Doomed Cotton-tree — The Highest Inhabited House in the
World — The Royal Gorge of Arkansas — Salida — Lcadvillo — Travel-
ling under Difficulties — American Enterprise — The Black Caiion —
A Pleasant Piece of Information — The Green River — Price River
Cailon — A Mormon Settlement — Salt Lake City — The Tabernacle —
President Taylor explains — The Central Pacific Riiilway — Notices
to Passengers — Wadsworth — The Sierra Nevadas — Sacramcnta—
Benicia — Oakland — San Francisco — John Chinaman — How he
amuses himself — A Mistake — The Golden Gate ....

CHAPTER III.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

Madera — Travellers Beware ! — The Fresno Flats — A Magnificent Forest —
A Ride behind Six Horses — A Glorious View — The Yosemite Valley
— The Mirror Lake — The Nevada Falls — Glacier Point — El Capitan
—The Dome— The Half Dome— The Cap of Liberty— The Sentinel
Dome— Lost in the Forest — " The Point " — Master Bruin— Hotels
in the Valley

CHAPTER IV.

LOS ANGELES.

The Man and the Boar — A Meal of Bear — The Mariposa Grove of Big
Trees — The Grizzly Giant — An Angry Darkie — A Tree Forest —

xtt

CONTENTS.

I'AOK

Among the Pioneers — An Expensive Drive — Fourteen Miles an
Hour Down a Mountain — An Energetic Driver — An Interview with
American Farmers — Their Opinion of California — A Blizzard — Back
in Madera — En route for Los Angeles — How a Native was Surprised
— Los Angeles — The Vineyards of San Gabriel — A Charming Villa
— A Laconic Advertisement — A Huge Geranium Bush — An Island
for Sale — Back to San Francisco — Bay Point
Harvest Operations in California — At Benicia again

A Large Corn-field —

CHAPTER V.

UP THE COAST TO VICTORIA.

On Board the Dakota — A Last Glimpse of San Francisco — Improving the
Occasion — "No more Sea" — A View of the Olympians — Vancou-
ver's Island — The Straits of San Juan — Capo Flattery — " These
Sleepy English" — Waiting for a Tug — At Victoria — Neglected
Streets — The Lieutenant-Governor — Mr. Justice Walkem — The
Swiftsure — Esquimalt — Mount Baker — Chinese Servants — Their
Trustworthiness — Saanich — Back to Victoria .....

CHAPTEE VI.

THROUGH THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.

San Juan de Fuca — Kuper Pass — Straits of Georgia — An Iron Island
— The Cascade Mountains — Eraser River — How Salmon are Tinned
— New Westminster — Port Moody — The IMce of Land at Port Moody
— The Indians and their Dead — Hope — Emory — Yale — Doubt, Dis-
cussion, and Decision — Hell's Gate — Boston Bars— Gold-du.st —
Back at Yale — A Tricky Engine-driver — Hotels in British Columbia
— Agriculture and Labour in British Columbia — An Uncomfortable
Walk through Fairjdand — In an Indian Canoe to English Bay — A
Unique Reception — An Unceremonious Native — Coal Harbour — An
Exciting Drive — Philip suddenly becomes Sober — His History —
Columbian Veracity — Back at Victoria

103

1^ ^

CHAPTER VII.

THE PROSPECTS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

John Chinaman's Expeditious Dish — Timber and Timber-fallers — Axe or
Saw ? — Indian Industry — Hunting on a Limited Scale — The Argu-
mentum ad Hominem — Cowichan — Nanaimo — Departure Bay — Turn-
ing the Corner — The Best Climate in the World — A Pleasant and
Prosperous Settlement— Coal Island — Reciprocal Rejoicings — Matri-
mony : Supply and Demand — Vancouver Island — Hints to Settlers
— Agricultural Operations — Land Prospecting — A True Story — A

CONTENTS.

Xlll

I'AUK

Pic-Nic — Cordova Bay — Langford Lake — Canadians and British
Columbians — llhadamanthus lludivivus — Firo I — A Curious Mistake
— Farewells — When to Visit British Columbia — The Terminus of
the Canadian Pacifie Railway 127

CHAPTER VIII.

EASTWARD HO !

Last Look at Victoria — Port Townsend — Seattle — Rival Toutera —
Washington Territory — Tacoma — Judge Lynch — Portland, Oregon
Territory — The Party Divides — On the Iron Road again —
The Dalles— Wallula— The Spokane Falls— Sand Point— Idaho
Territory — Heron — Horse Plains — The ' ' Cow-catcher " — The
Flatheads — A Narrow Escape — Missoula — A Comfortable Hotel —
Profuse Profanity

157

CHAPTER IX.

THROUGH THE ROCKIES IN A BUGGY.

A Plenitude of Money — A Refractory Steed — A Night in a Log-house —
The Result of Evil Communications — "George" becomes more
Capricious — A Struggle — " George " Wins — Now Chicago — Plain
Speaking — A Delay — A Shaky Wheel — A Crash — Five Thousand
Feet above the Sea Level — Sweotlands — Stage Coaching in the
Rockies — Cui-ious Phenomenon — Helena, Montana Territory . .170

CHAPTER X.

AGRICULTURE IN MONTANA AND DAKOTA.

Hn route for Glyndon, Minnesota — Montana Territory — Character of the
Land — Bozeman — Yell()w.stone River — Yellowstone Park — Crow
Indian Reservation Ground — Glendivo — Dickinson and its Streets
— Dakota Territory — Its Agriculture — Across the Missouri — Bis-
marck — Glyndon — Winnipeg — Farming Notes — Trip to Otterbume,
Manitoba — Inspection of Fai-ms — A Drive iu a Buck-board . .180

CHAPTER XL

THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORY.

Agriculture between Winnipeg and Marquette — Scotch Settlers — Portage
la Prairie — Brandon — \'irden — A Visit from the Police — The One-
mile Belt — Tree Planting — A Prairie Sunset — Moon-rise on the
Prairie — Indian Head — A Drive to Fort Uu'Appelle — A Field of
Twelve Hundred Acres — Farming in Minnesota and in the North-
West compared — A Settler's Story

202

XIV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

AMONG THE REDSKINS.

Indian Settlers— A Roman Catholic Jlission— The Creo Indian Camp —
Survival of Cruel Customs — A Ceremonious Reception — Indian
Blusic — Dog Stow — Musical Accompaniment to a Speech — Indian
Braves on the Boast — Tho Pale-faces respond — An Embarrassing
Offer

TAOE

211

CHAPTER XIII.

PRAIRIE LAND IN THE NORTH-WEST.

The Touchwood Qu'Appelle Colonisation Company — Rolling Prairie — Flat
Prairie — A Risky Drive — A Sioux Settlement — A Red-skin on the
Hunt — " Millions of Mosquitoes" — Among tho Settlers — Their Re-
quests — Winter in the North-West— A Nasty Accident . . . 220

CHAPTER XIV.

REGINA AND MOOSEJAW.

The Musk-Rat — After-Glow — Wholesale Interviewing — Railway Travel-
ling in the North- West — Regina — The Canadian ISIounted Police —
A House on Wheels— The " Noble Savage " Found at Last— A Taste
of Sulphur — Moosojaw — Its Future — The Crees — A Massacre of
Mosquitoes — Conflicting Rumours ....... 229

CHAPTER XV.

MEDICINE HAT AND THIRTEENTH SIDING.

' Old Wives' Lakes " — Tho Spear Grass — Sunrise on the Prairie — Swift
Current — Frozen Sub-soil — Maple Crook — Five Miles Without an
Engine — Medicine Hat — Another Hand-shaking — Anti-Liquor Law
in tho North- West — Across Saskatchewan River — A Vigorous Rail-
way Contractor — Thirteenth Siding — The Open Prairie — Agricul-
ture in tho North- West 239

CHAPTER X\l.
THE BLACK-rOOT INDIANS.

" Crow Foot " and the Railwaj' — A Claim for Damages — Unsophisticated
Natives — Sixty Miles for the nearest Doctor — Revolting Spectacles
— Native Agriculture 255

CONTENTS.

CHArTER XVII.

AT THE END OP THE TEACK.

!klirages of the Prairio — Bow River — Burial among the Indians — The End
of the Track — Railway Construction — A Rif^ht Royal Hotel — Fann-
ing and Prices at Calgary — A Reunion — Clive's Experiences .

I'AOB

263

CHAPTER XVIII.

A DRIVING TOUR.

Livingstone — Glen's Farm and Government Farms — Colonel de Winton's
Ranchc — A "Round Up" — Cochrane Rancho — A Day's Track-
laying — Professional Jealousy — Sixteenth Siding — An Inquiry as
to " Them Fellows " — Indisposition of Clive 276

CHAPTER XIX.

MEDICINE HAT TO BRANDON.

Moose jaw — An Enterprising Editor — Elkhom — Commotion and Separation
— The Assinihoine Farm — " Back-setting " — A Weedy Country — A
Cold Climate— A Considerable " Trifle "—Brandon

288

CHAPTER XX.

BY ROAD TO CARTWRIOHT.

Plum Creek — Across the Souris — A Prairie Fire — Sod v. Wood Huts — Ex-
periences of Settlers — A Novel Method of Herding Cows — Welcome
Hospitality — " Bachelors' Home " — Turtle Mountains — Deloraine —
Agricultural Notes — Desford — Wakopa — Cartwright — A Pig in the
Wrong Place — No Medical Aid

298

CHAPTER XXI.

CARTWRIGHT TO MANITOBA CITY.

Farmers Wanted — Labour and Living at Cartwright — General Aspect of
Southern Manitoba — Observations on the Crops — Pembina Crossing
J — A Discontented Settler — Manitoba City 313

CHAPTER XXIL

SOUTHERN MANITOBA — PRESENT AND FUTURE.

More Capital Wanted — How Lands are " Settled " in Southern Manitoba
— A Short-sighted Policy— Character of the Soil — Suggestions — A
Reaction from the " Land-grab " Fever — Locking-up Land — Labour
in Manitoba 323

xvi CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIII.

EXPERIENCES OF TWO SETTLERS. j.^^^^

Advice to IntonJint? Emigrants — A Drive round an Estate— Prices of Im-
plements and Live Stock — A Fair Profit from a Holding of IGO
Acres — Fuel — Weeds — Visit to a Stock Farm — The Prairie Rose . 334

CHAPTER XXIV.

AMONG THE MENNONITES.

Pembina— Roscnfold— The Blennonites — Victims of Slander — How they

Live — Their Gardens — Their Mode of Farming and of Settlement . 3;37

CHAPTER XXV.

ALONG THE RED RIVER VALLEY.

A Rush for the Triiin — Morris — Comparative Richness of Lands — Winnipeg
— Clive's Indisposition more Serious — Winnipeg ]\Iu(l — A Drive to
Kildonan — General Remarks on Manitoba and the North- West . 370

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE END.

Olive becomes Worse — IMcssrs. Stewart and Campbell's Cattle Rancho —

Clive's Death— The Return Journey 380

Appendix A 391

Appendix B— Table of Distances 395

Appendix C — The Kootenay Lake District 397

Life and Labour

IN THE

Far, Far ^Vest.

CHAPTER I

EN ROUTE.

The Start — A Narrow Escape — New York— Railway Travcllinf!^ in America —
American Hospitality — St. Louis — Denver — Manitou — The Ute Pass —
The " Garden of th(3 Gods "—Pike's Peak— Crystal l»ark.

On the lOtli May, 1883, we sailed from Liverpool
in the s.s. Germanic (5,004 tons), White Star Line,
Captain Kennedy, Commander, our party consistinj^
of my friend and neighbour Meysey Clive, my brother-
in-law Arthur Mitchell, and myself. We had secured
some months earlier the best accommodation procurable —
namely, the purser's cabin on deck for one of our party,
and a large, roomy, family cabin below for the other
two.

We had a beautiful run down the Mersey, and were
favoured with calm sea and fine weather until we
reached Queenstown, where, as we had some hours to

LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAB, FAB WEST.

\ ;

wait for the mails, we landed, and took the opportunity
of looking- round Cork. Before 5 p.m. we had weighed
anchor and had started for New York — a run of 2,885
miles from Queenstown to Sandy Hook at the mouth of
New York Harbour — the rain meantime coming down
in the most correct Irish style, until we lost sight of
land. AVe did not have a particularly good or quick
passage, for we exj^erienced three days of heavy sea, and
mostly head winds ; and two days of fog, during nearly
the whole of which we had to run at half-speed, and
the horrible noise of the fog-horn was incessantly heard.
When this at last cleared off the weather was most
enjoyable, and it was a grand sight to see our fine vessel
being pushed along as fast as possible in order to make
up for lost time. Each line of Atlantic steamers has
its own separate course for both the outward and return
journeys ; and during our passage we saw no vessels
except two or three sailing ships, until nearing New
York on the 19th May. That night there was rather
a commotion on board, owing to another steamer having
come unpleasantly near to us ; and it subsequently
transpired that we had really only narrowly escaped a
collision.

On reaching New York Harbour on the 20th, we
were put in quarantine to await inspection by the
doctor, and found ourselves in company with four or five
other large ships, all full of emigrants. It is the duty

EX liOUTE.

:;unity

2,885

utli of

down

io-llt of

quick

E?a, and

nearly

id, and

heard.
s most
e vessel
p make
ers has

return

vessels
lo; New

rather

having
Iquently

;aped a

loth, we
I by the
or five
lie duty

of the medical officer ,vho comes on hoard to see that
all the emi<^rants are vaccinated; and our doctor had
performed this operation on about one hundred of
them during the passage out. On being released
from quarantine we landed, and went at once to the
Brevoort House Hotel, where we secured rooms. New
York did not seem to have changed much since 1
saw it two years ago, except that the Brooklyn sus-
pension bridge, then in course of construction, was
finished, and was to be opened the following week
with great ceremony by my friend, the Honourable
Abram S. Hewitt, member of Congress for New York.
The "Empire City" is now becoming so well known
that it is unnecessary for me to say much about it. 1
consider the harbour to be one of the finest I have ever
seen ; I should fancy that this one, and that of San
Francisco, are unequalled in America. Broadway is the
principal business street; the Fifih Avenue is the
fashionable quarter, and is remarkable for its handsome
houses and numerous churches. The city is regularly
built in blocks ; Broadway runs diagonally to the
avenues, thus intersecting all the blocks. The central
park is extremely well laid out, and is quite worth a
visit. To strangers, the elevated railway is one of the
principal sights of New York ; it is carried on trestles
right along the street ; the trains running on a level

with the first-floor windo\\'s of the houses. There are
B 2

4 LIFf'J A\f) LAllOUlt IN TlIi: FA I!, FA It WEST.

very fow hired carriaj^^es to be had in New York, and
tliose there are are frightfully dear ; but street ears (or
trains) run nearly everywhere, both here and in other
American eities ; the fares are clieap, and they are a
<,n'eat convenience. Soni(? of the cars are ch)sed like
ours; others are open, with cross seats, and are, in
summer, very ])leasant to travel in.

I may here add a word about the river steaml)oats
of America, of which the best are tliose plyini^ near
New York. These are veritable iloatin*^ palaces, ac-
commodatin<i^ about 1,000 passengers. The arrange-
ments are generally as follows : The deck projects over
the hull so as to give more space in the vessel, and yet
cause her to make as little resistance to the water as
possible ; the goods and engines are usually on the
lower deck ; and the upper one is an immense saloon,
with sleeping berths all round. There are open spaces
fore and aft to walk or sit about. On the steamers near
New Y'^ork the commissariat is good, but on many of
tlie others it is very bad.

Perhaps, before proceeding to a more detailed ac-
count of the various parts we visited, it may be as well
to give here some general information on railway
travelling in America. This I had always heard was
good ; and so it is on some lines, or if you travel by
a Pullman car, to secure the comfort of a seat in which
it is well worth while to pay the extra fee demanded.

ii'.V ROUTE.

111

[d ac-
well

[ilvvay
was

[el by
vvliicli
in dec! .

Theso cars ajv attached to most trains, l)nt not to all ;
the ordinary cars arc cramped, and oi'teii crowded : they
hold about sixty jx'ople, and the seats all i'a(!e the
cii<^ine. ThoULfh they can be turned round, the con-
ductor does not usually allow this to be done, for
Americans never sit with their back to the eni^iiKV In
hot weather all the win(h)ws are open, as are t)t"ten the
doors at each end besides, so that it is itnpossihle to <^ot
out of the drau«4'ht ; indeed, the windows are so made
that they only ^'o nj) hair-way, and the wooden frame
of the glass interferes sadly with the view. Tn dry
weather the dust and eni^ine-blacks bh)w in in clouds ;
and as these blacks are almost small coals, the extreme
unpleasantness can hardly be described. There are no
classes on American railways, so you cannf)t choose your
company ; and may have either a New York senator or
a nigger for your nearest fellow-passenger. But al-
though no ckisses are recognised, a new system is creep-
ing in of having slower trains, called emigrant trains ;
and in these the fares are at a reduced rate, thus
making them second-class trains. Each car, or number
of cars, has a conductor and porter ; each separate Pull-
man has both officials. They invariably bang the doors
with a louder crash than any one else on entering or
leaving the car. This perpetual door-banging is one
of the greatest nuisances in American railway travelling.
Whether it be passengers, conductor, porter, or news-

LIFE AND LADUUU IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

m\)or-u\i\u (who takes it in turns to conic round with
hooks, piipcrs, fruit, and cii^ars), all hjin<; the doors as
liard as tiiry can (a|)|)arcntly) in j)assin<,' hackwards and
forwards. It is really dillicult to explain the want of
quiet e.\[)erieneed in American travelling': the motion
of the cars is noisy and uncomfiU'tahle, and, added to
this and the perpetual door-hanj^ing, there is the hoarse
whistle of the enfij-ine, and the almost incessant tollin<^
of its hell ; for few of the railways are thorou<;hly
fenced in, and in many cases the train runs throus^-h tnc
open streets of the towns, soundin*^ the hell, of course,
all the time. In the Pullman cars you are allotted a
comfortable sleeper if on a lon<^ journey, or an arm-
chair if it is only a dravvinj^-room car. A man, who is
called a porter (usually a neg'ro), is mostly em])loyed
to look after the car, and, as a rule, does not consider it
his duty to look after the ])assengers — so much so that
any help from him is quite exceptional, and many a
time have I had a great struggle to get up or down
at the end of the cars, over-weighted by my luggage,
the porter meanwhile looking on, and never thinking
of coming to the rescue. There are only two doors
to each car (forward and aft), and to get in or out takes
a considerable time, for the last step is some distance
from the ground. The trains almost alw^ays start off
without warning, either by bell, whistle, or word of
mouth ; and this increases the inconvenience of there

EN JlOUTn.

fnking

doors

takes

[stance

iirt off

lord of

there

bein<? so fj'w ways of oiitrance and exit, for peojile will
stand on the platform, and there is always a scrimniaj^o
to re;j^ain one's j)laee when the train moves olV. There
are no re^nlar station porters, so yon nuist look after
yonr own Inn'j^a^e, for no one will ^ive yon the sli^^ditest
assistance, nnless yon send it to the hi«,'(;age-room some
time (often an honr) before yonr train is to start, and
have it cheeked to your destination. The arrange-
ments for smokin<j^ are had ; sometimes there is no
accommo(hition exc<'ptini:f on the platform outside; but,
as a rule, there is one car in which it is allowed. In the
Pullmans, however, there is ^'enerally a little room
attached. A ni^ht journey in an ordinary car must
be simple torture, hut most trains running any distance
carry a Pullman's "sleeper." These make up twenty-
four berths in two tiers, of which the lower berths are
preferable, as the npper ones are liable to get covered
with the coal-blacks and dust penetrating through the
top ventilators. Some trains carry dining-room cars,
which are a great convenience, for in the matter of
wayside refreshments I think America is nearly as far
behind the Continent as we are in England. The per-
manent way of the railroads is in some places still very
rough ; hut in the Eastern States this is now improving
with the increase of traffic.

We left England with no definite views as to
our route, further than that I had accepted an invi-

i«

8 /.//'V-; AM) LMunm in the far, fmi wI':st.

fjition from tl>o Directors of tlic Midlsiiul of Canadji
l\)inp;iny to JUH'oiu])iiny tluMii aloii}^ the Oamidijui Pjicitie
llailwjiy, travelli'i'^ in tlieir ollieial car, on a visit of
insj)(H!tion to the newly o])ene(I-up Canadian Provinces
of Manitoba and tlie North- West. Mr. Cox, tlie Presi-
dent of the Midhmd of Canada line, and Mr. Jall'ray,
one of the Directors (with both of whom I had become
acquainted when visitini^ Canada in I SSI), had sent rae
this invitation, and had included in it my two friends.
We were to meet for this exjM'dition at Glyndon or
Winnipeg, on 1 8th .Inly ; and therefore had an interval
of nearly two months before doin;^ so. T\\'\n interval
we decided to (ill up by visitin*^ the Yosemite Valley,
Southern California, and San Francisct) ; possibly also
oxtendinu our tour to liritish Columbia. After our
trij) to the North-West Territory, we hoped to have
further extended our tour to the ]^]astern portions of
Canada and the United States, and to Niagara (which 1
should have been well pleased to see again), being
interested in agriculture ; Meysey Clive and I were also
anxious to have visited some of the new homes of the
Hereford cattle ; but, ahis ! these later projects were
destined to bo brought suddenly to a most unforeseen
and melancholy termination.

On reaching New York we were received by old
friends there, and others to whom we had introductions,
with that open-hearted hospitality which is so charac-

EN ROUTE.

tcristic of our cousins iioross i\w, Atluniic. My fri(Mi<l, i\lr
Ilowitt, in particuliir, was most kind in not onlyodorin*^
us the julvjintiit^cs of his own lu)S])itality, l)ut in intro-
duoiu}^ us to sovcral of liis fri(>n(ls ; and liad wo availed
ourselves of all the attractions thus oU'ered us in th(;
" Ein])ire City," w(* should have found eisoun-h -and
nioro than enough — occupation then; for the whole of
th(! time at our disposal, without visiting the " Far,
Far VV(?st " at all. I think tliere is no one; in th(»
world so hosj)ital)le and kind as the Aineri(;an }^('ntl(!-
inan : whether in the lOastern or Western States, it is
just th(^ same — the same courtesy and kindness, the
same readiness to he of any help or s(!rvice to the
strauf^or who is fortunate enou^'h to ho possessed of
an introduction to him, always distin<^'uish him. We
had some difHculty in partin<^ with our kind friends,
so pressin*^ was their hospitality, both in New York and
afterwards at St. Louis ; but we were bent this time on
penetrating to the Far, Far West.

After makin<^ various arrangements, and })idding
adieu to a nund)er of our New York friends, we started on
the evening of the 22nd May by the Fennsylvania route
from New York to J)enver, and found this lini; a well-
managed one, and our Pullman sleepers comfortable
enough. The next day we traversed some very pretty
scenery in the Alleghany Mountains, after which we
passed on out of Pennsylvania State througli those of

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

Ohio, Indiiina, {ind Illinois, till we reached St. Louis, on
the borders of Missouri, ii distance of 1,()G4 miles from
New York, which took us about forty-six hours to per-
form. The States of Ohio and Pennsylvania both con-
tain for the most part undulating, well-wooded lands.
We thought the soil of Illinois State (especially as we
neared St. Louis) better for agricultural purposes than
any we had previously seen. At the St. Louis Station
we were met by my friend Mr. Wainwright, who took
us (after breakfasting with him) to inspect his lager-
beer brewery, which we found very interesting. He
si owed us through immense cellars, where the beer was
kept almost iced, for lager beer will not keep as our
English beer does, and must be stored in a cool tem-
peratm'e — which is a difficult thing to manage in a
place like St. Louis, well known to be one of the hottest
in this district. We tasted some of the beer, which was
excellent. A tap is always kept going for the workmen,
of which they avail themselves pretty freely. We went
afterwards to the Corn Exchange to see the brokers
gambling in corn. I saw one two years ago in Chicago,
and this is managed on the same plan ; a hollow is
made in the middle of the floor, so that all the parties
engaged can see one another. We were shown some
capital Californian barley and some beautiful white
Indian corn.

We left St. Louis by 8.30 p.m. train for Denver, and

EN EOUTE.

cliangocl trains next m<>niing at Kansas City, wliicli
seemed a busy pljice. The station was full of emif^rants,
and everything about the district gave signs of life and
activity. Outside the city people were camping out in
tents. The countrj^ round was well wooded ; the soil
mostly of a dark loamy colour ; though poor in places,
it was, apparently, generally very fertile, and the crops
seemed more forward than farther east. Kansas City
is on the Missouri river, and I am told that lands more
than one hundred miles to the west of that river are
farmed at a great risk, as a drought may at any time
destroy all the crops. The wheat-fields of Kansas State
were all in ear, the seed having been sown last Septemr
bar ; the heads of the coni were very even throughout,
but the straw short. The railroad is not fenced in, and
where a road crosses the line a post is erected with
cross boards, marked " railway crossing," in order to
warn the people passing by. The houses of the settlers
here were mostly built of wood, though a few were of
stone. When they stood alone, some trees were always
phmted round to afford shelter. Here and there was
an attempt at fencing in, but the lands were generally
unenclosed.

As we went farther west the country became more
and more ojDcn, and cattle ranches took the place of
arable land ; in fact, it was really open and undulating
prairie. The next morning our journey was very

LIFI-: AXI) LAUOUn LV THE FAE, FAR WEST.

monotonous, beint^ entirely over the o])en prairie,
throuL»-li bad and bnrnt-up land ; and the only exeite-
nient we had was when our train starth'd and seattered
a herd of antelopes gTazin<»' near the traek. We
watched the ehain of the Uocky Mountains j,n*adually
risinu^ in the Far distanee, but were a little disa])pointed
with this view of them, owing probal)ly to the fact that
the plateau we were traversing was in itself some 4,U00
to 5,000 feet above the sea ; and though the mountains
rise straight up from the plain, the prairie being at so
great an elevation necessarily takes otf from their real
lieight. '^i'he atmosphere here was very clear, and on
leavirig the train at Denver (which we reached at 8.15
a.m.), the air struck us as remarkably light and bracing.
Denver is situated quite on the open prairie, 5,314 feet
above the sea ; it has a lively look, and seemed a very
go-ahead place. It is distant 933 miles from St. Louis,
or 1,997 miles in all from New York — a journey which
it had taken us two days and four nights of continuous
travelling to accomplish, exclusive, of course, of one
stoppage of a day at St. Louis.

We decided not to remain at Denver, but to con-
tinue our journey on to Manitou, taking the train as far
as Colorado Springs (along a new line, the Denver and
New Orleans Hail way), and tliei^ '^ driving live miles to
Manitou, from which point I commence a more detailed
account of what we did and saw. The track from

EN ROUTE.

feet

rom

Denver to Colorado Springs is about seventy-eight miles
in length, the whole distance being over burnt-up prairie.
Although it was only towards the end ol May, the
grass was perfectly brown, and looked worthless, owing
to the scarcity of water. I was told, however, that
after the wet season — which is, I think, in June or
July — this dead-looking grass freshens up again in the
most wonderful manner. The Denver and New Orleans
Railroad had only been opened during the previous
year; at present it runs as far as Pueblo. It has to
contend with an opposition line (the Denver and llio
Grande), and hardly seems promising as a paying con-
cern, for there are very few houses along the route, and
the stations are but poor places. As we drove from Colo-
rado Springs to Manitou, the country still looked utterly
desolate, being quite devoid of trees, and everything
appeared to be completely dried or burnt-up. On
arriving at our destination, we put up at the Manitou
House Hotel, and there made the acquaintance of Dr.
Bell's secretary, who was on the look-out for us. Dr.
Bell himself had been a fellow-passenger of ours on
board the Germanic. Manitou is situated about 6,124
feet above the sea, amongst the lower spurs of the
Rocky Mountains, and is distant about eleven miles
from the summit of Pike's Peak, three miles from the
Garden of the Gods, and five miles from a charming place
called Glen Eyre, the residence of General Palmer, Presi-

f 4

LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

dent of the Denver and Rio Grande Railway. It is, on
the whole, a very pretty situation, and the place is fast
becoming rather a fashionable resort amongst Americans.
The air is very pure and good, and the climate exces-
sively dry, and suitable for consumptive and rheumatic
patients. The scenery here is beautiful, especially in
the " Parks," as some of the high valleys up in the
mountains are called.

The morning after our arrival at Manitou (May
27th), Meysey Clive and I took a very pretty short
walk up the Ute Pass, which leads, I believe, to
Leadville. On returning to our hotel we found that an
excursion train which had come in from Denver rather
interfered with our luncheon arrangements ; for the
tourists got possession of the dining-room, and we
" inhabitants " had to take what we could get. In
the afternoon we walked to the " Garden of tlie Gods,"
about three miles from Manitou. This is a very curious
place ; it looks as if the soil or crust of the earth
had all been washed away, leaving the bare projecting
rocks. These are all red sandstone, and their colour and
formation are very remarkable ; some are of very fan-
tastic shapes, and of a considerable height. There is
a good deal of brushwood growing amongst them
wherever it can obtain a foothold. At the farther end,
at " The Gate of the Gods," one passes between two
huge masses of red sandstone, immediately behind which

EN ROUTE.

acting
and
fail-
ure is
them
end,
two
hicli

there is a white rock of a formation from which plaster-
of- Paris is made ; the effect produced by the contrast
of the two colours so immediately in contact is most
curious. Afterwards we walked about two miles farther
to General Palmer's house. There are some nice
specimens of trees here, and it is even more remark-
able than the " Garden of the Gods " itself, for the
rocks — some of which are red sandstone, some grey,
and some almost white — take every eccentric variety
of form. One of them is called the Eaijrle's Kock. We
were told that a pair of these birds used to build
there every }'ear ; but about two years back some
men descended from the top of the cliff by a rope,
and stole the eggs. Since then the eagles have de-
serted the place, but the remains of the nest were still
to be seen. We walked back to Manitou at a pretty
brisk pace.

Meysey and I had a " drink" in the morning from
the soda spring, which rises in the village of Manitou,
and found it very pleasant to the taste, much like a
soft soda-water. There is also an iron spring here,
though there is no iron or other mineral in the neigh-
bourhood available for working ; and in the hotel there
are two tanks for the use of visitors, one of soda-water,
the other of iron.

We had intended starting for Leadville the next
morning, but found that 150 newspaper employes were

LIFE AND LABOUR IN TUB FAB, FAB WEST.

going there at the same time on a pleasure trip ; and
as they would take up most of the hotel accommoda-
tion, we thought it best to abandon the idea, and make
Manitou House Hotel our quarters a little longer.

On the following day Meysey Olive and Arthur
Mitchell started to make the ascent of " Pike's Peak,"
leaving the hotel at 3 a.m. I did not accompany
them, but preferred going to see "Crystal Park;" for
I had heard so much about Colorado " Parks " that I
was anxious to see one, and this appeared the easiest ot
access. I heard Olive and Mitchell make their start,
and about 5 a.m. got up myself. First of all I went
to the soda spring to have a drink, and then, having
inquired the way, set off for the Crystal Park. I was
not long before I lost the path, but regained it by
taking a straight course up the side of the mountain, by
which means I soon struck the zig-zag path.

It was a very hot morning ; the sky was cloudless,
and the air pure and bright. When I regained the
track I could see Manitou in the valley below me ; the
" Garden of the Gods" beyond, with the red sandstone
rocks shining in the sunlight ; and beyond that, again,
the broad brown Prairie, with Colorado Springs, and its
wide streets lying flat on the plain, looking exactly as
if it had been squashed out flat. To the right and left
of me was the range of the Eocky Mountains, studded
over with stunted fir-trees ; for on the eastern slopes

ST.

EX ROUTE.

rip ; and
)nimoda-
nd make
jer.

[ Arthur
's Peak,"
icompany
.irk;" for
t" that I
easiest ot
leir start,
[1 I went
Q, havin«^
k. I was
[led it by
mtain, "by

cloudless,
lined the

me; the
sandstone
it, again,
s, and its

xactly as
and left

, studded

n slopes

of the Kockies the trees do not grow to any si/e. The
mountain formation appeared to be grey granite. The
path was k)Ose shingle, and bad for walking ; something
like a sea beach of small pebbles. The trail I was
following was a good one, and broad enough for a small
carriage ; but it would be impossible to pass anything,
and once started you must go right up to the top. T
understand that yesterday the landlord of our hotel
sent up a party in a trap who wished to visit the Park ;
perhaps they did not like the look of the road ; anyhow,
they wanted to turn back, but found it impossible to do
so ; and they had to go all the way to the top before
they could mannge it.

After a charming walk I reached the Park, through
an opening in the mountains barely wide enough to
allow of the passage of a stream of water and of the
road which formed the entrance. I found that some
new-comers had just taken possession of the place ;
they had bought the rights, and were going to " run " a
ranche, and start some accommodation for invalids, the
speculator's brother being a doctor.

These Colorado Parks are really valleys high up in
the mountains : this one was about 8,000 feet above the
sea. A Park without water is practically useless. The
new proprietor told me the grass here was excellent,
and he pointed out a spring the water of which was as
cold as if iced. He also showed me the place from

LIFE AND LAltnvn IN THE EAli, VAli WEST.

which the Park dorives its name of "Crystal." On
cxaininin}^ it I found a quantity of whito crystals
anioui^st a heap of loose shiui^lo and soil; the more
one disturbed the deposit, the more crystal stones
turned up. I noticed an immense granite rock lying
on its side, a portion of which was split oil" as smoothly
as if cut with a knife, and lay just below the main
rock, as though it had quietly slidden oil*. None of
the timber here is of large growth, and there is nearly
as much of it dead as alive, in the form of old trees
lying about, charred and burnt up with the heat of
the sun.

I had a very pleasant walk back to the hotel,
varying my route by keeping this time to the proper
path. As Clive and Mitchell had not returned from
"Pike's Peali" by 5 p.m., I went on by myself (as I
had previously arranged) to Pueblo, where they were
to pick me up the next morning on their way to Salt
Lake City.

:sT.

ial." On
crystals
the more
,\1 stones
•ock lying
smoothly
the main
None of
e is nearly
' old trees
le heat of

the hotel,

the proper

Lirned from

self (as I

they were

ray to Salt

CllAITlOli II.

TlllloriJIl MOKMOM.WI) TO SAN FIIANCISCO.

rut'blo— Tlic Dooirud ( iiltnii-trcc— Tho lli>;!:lu<st Inlmbittd lloiist' in tho WorM
— Tlic IJoyal (lorfic of ArkaiiMiis S.ilidii Lcitdvilln — Tvavrllinpf mnlcr
Didiciiltirs - AimiMcan I'!iili'i]iiiHc -Tin' liluck Cafioii — A Pleasant I'iccc
it Iiiformalioii — 'riir (Jiciii Kivcr I'liif Kivcr ('iirum- A Mcirtiiim
Si'tt lenient — Salt Liiko City 'I'lie'ruhernaclo — I'residont Taylor explains
—Tile Central Pa<ilit; K;iil\vay -N'ttfices to I'lissenpTM— Wuilsworth
The Si(;ria Nevadas — Sacniinento - Ki iiieia — Oakland — San l'"ran('iseo —
John Chinunmn — llow ho unuise.s himself — A MiHtuku — The CJoldon
tfute.

I LKiT Manitou by the 5 ]).m. train (by Denver and

ilio Grande railroad) for Colorado Si)rings, and there

i(ot into an Atchenson, Topeka, and Santa Fe carriage,

which took nie to Pueblo. The country through

which I travelled appeared to be a mere desolate,

dried-iip prairie ; farming on the plains of Colorado

must be hopeless work ; and as for mines, I should

advise only very knowing ones to turn their hands to

them, unless they want their fingers burnt.

Arrived at Pueblo, I had to walk to the hotel : a

darkie belonging to it had followed me from the

depot, and after a bit offered to help me with my bag ;

but his services came too late ; he had kept well out of

njy way until he found I was determined to walk. I

crossed the Arkansas river, which flows through here,
c 2

' I

8»

Lirr: axp laiioih in tui: fah, far wkst.

and finally arrived at tlu? Nunui House Hotel. There
were a ^'reat many scjuatters and campers-out round
the town, a rou^h-Iookini;^ lot ; indeed, Puehlo struck
mo as beiuf^ very Spanish or l\lexican — (juite difl'eront
to the other American cities I had seen — and the
people looked extremely roui,^! and lawless. A ma<(ni-
licent cotton-tree, measm'iiiLj, I should think, about
8 feet in diameter, which was jj;rowinL^ in one of the
thoroug'h fares, was beini;' cut down. It is a <^reat
shame to remove such a tree as this, and I felt
indignant with the Pueblo citizens for allowing it.

The next morning was very hot, but I was up at
5.'i() a.m., and walked the mile to the station (bag
and all) to catch the 7.15 a.m. train to Salt Lake City.
I'j)t roiilc I passed the poor doomed cotton-tree, and
later in the day I saw an article in tlie paper
expostulating against its fall, and placing the ntws
under the head of " Deaths" : —

"AFTKU TEN CENTURIES THE UIG TREE RECEIVES ITS DEATH STROKE.

'* Tlie big tree must go. The work of carrying out the order of the
city council began in eai-ncst yesterday morning, and during tlie day
the vandals were climbing all over it with saws^ axes, pnlleys, and
ropes, ha\dng ladders fastened along the linjbs. The very first thing
done was to girdle the monster, so as to make a sure thing of killing
liim, whether they ever got through the job of dismembering or not.
The work of severing and letting down the huge limbs without
making damage is no easy one, and but little progress was made
yesterday. * It's a blinked blanked shame,' was heard all along the
street, all day long, but after the girdling operation had been com-

tUnOUCIl MOUMOS'LAND TO SAX lUtASCISCO. 21

plctt'd pcojilf rculiHrd that it was too Into tlum to make olijt'rtioiiH.
8011H', howKViU", iiixiHt tluit l»y all tlid j^oiIh of war tho rest of tlu^
cotton woods on Union Avcnur shall j;t) too. If vumlulisni pruvails,
then ovju-ytliiii^ j,'o«ih. If tlir Itif^ treo dies, tho woodman must make
a holocaust of all tlm troes in town.

"Thcri' have \n>vn various mis-statotuonts as to the circumfiu'cua'
of thti liig trcci. Tht! actual <:;irth of tho old fellow a yard from the
j^round is just twonty-ono (L'l) feet. At tlm lovid of tho ground it is
twenty-two ('2'2) ftsot and ci;^ht (M) inch(>s. Years a;^o, before Union
Avenuo was tilled up to its present grade, tlu^ lill being three or four
feot, the circumferenco of tin; tree at the base was twenty-six (!'()) feet
and two inches. This would makt; its greatest dianu;ter nearly nine
feet. W(! have never heard of anybody disputing the a.ss(!rti(»u that
it is tli(! biggt!st tree in ('oU)rado. Its age can probal)ly be obtained
a[»proximat«dy by counting th<' annular marks in the trunk after it
has been cut down. The ( 7ti>/i!fn'« Las been authorised to oiler ten
dollars for a cross section of tho trunk near tho gi'ound, and we would
also suggest that a .section ought to be sent to the exposition.

** There liave also been stories told to the eti'ect that all the way
from three to seven different men have bcfen hung from the big tree at
various times when the town was young and brash. All such are
imaginary tales, invented for tho edification of awe-stricken tender-
feet ; and the crime of nuirder has never stained the old monarch's
record. It would have been cut down long ago had it chanced to
rear its bulky form a foot in eitlier direction toward the east or the
west side of the street."

Clive and Mitchell looked rather done up after their
walk up Pike's Peak yesterda}^ but said that they had
enjoyed it very much. The summit of Pike's Peak
is 14,33G feet above the sea-level, and they told me
they had a very fine walk, which lay at first through
well-wooded slopes; at a height of 11,000 feet they

LTFE AXD LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

reiiclied the timber line, and stopped 45 minutes for
breakfast ; farther on they stopped to rest at intervals
for a few minutes at a time, and eventually reached the
summit at 10.45. Plere they found a Government
Observatory posted ; it was occupied by one solitary
man, and is said to be the highest inhabited house in
the world. The thermometer was standing at 20 degrees
at the time of their visit; and they were told that
during the previous night it had been down to 19 degrees,
lioth Olive and Mitchell were much affected by the
extreme rarification of the air at this height : Clive
had felt it the most, and at a lower altitude ; but at
a height of 11,000 feet Mitchell experienced its effects;
so that from that point they made their way upwards
very slowly, their breathing being affected more and
more as they ascended ; and on reaching the summit,
Clive was quite exhausted, and had to lie down. They
had followed a horse trail the whole way up, but for the
last 3,000 feet it was covered with snow, though not
difficult to find. The views from the summit were very
fine, as Pike's Peak stands rather by itself, away from
the main chain of the Eocky Mountains. It is the
higltest mountain in the district ; the view on one side
is over the " boundless " prairie ; on the other sides are
masses of mountains, with the green " parks " amongst
them. They started to come down again at 1.30, and
after stopping once for half an hour to rest, reached

THROUGH MOBMONLAND TO SAX FnAXCISCO. -2:]

es for
:ervals
ed the
nment
olitary
use in
legrees
i that
egrrees.
by the
Clive
but at
effects ;
pwards
^re and
ummit,
They
for the

(jh not

?re very
ly from
is the
>ne side
des are
.mongst
.30, and
reached

the hotel at 5.30 — half an hour after I had left for
Pueblo. I am not fond of climbing great heights
myself ; and, besides, I had particularly wanted to see
a specimen Colorado " Park ;" so of course I told them
that Pike's Peak could not possibly be compared to the
beauties of Crystal Park. Fancy coming to Colorado
and not seeing one of the main features of the country
—a "Park!"

After a short run in our car on the narrow (3 feet)
gauge of the Denver and Rio Grande Eailvvay, an observa-
tion-car was attached to the train, and we commenced
the passage of the Royal Gorge of Arkansas, which
is considered the finest canon in Colorado. The cliffs
rise on each side to an immense height, leaving only
just room between them for the course of the Arkansas
river and the line. The railway system of Colorado is
in the habit of making use of these canons to get at its
traffic; and the engineering is wonderful, in places
which look both formidable in themselves and hopeless
for traffic ; but mines of wealth are hidden in the
heart of these mountains ; and railway officials know
besides how to make their profits by high charges.
The Royal Gorge is well worth coming a long way to
see, though we might have enjoyed the views in m re
comfort if the engine had not scattered so many blacks
about. The cliifs on either side rose in some places
almost perpendicularly to a height of from 3,000 to

i \

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i ^

I »J

U LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

4,000 f 3et. On emerj^ing from the cailon, we left the
observition-car behind, and came once more on deso-
hition and dricd-up prairie. At 11 o'clock we reached
Vallie Station, and here we had a fine view of the
cliain of the Eocky Mountains in the distance ; but
everywhere near us was the same variety of stunted
trees and burnt-up vegetation. Presently we passed
some charcoal burners. These are large white-painted
buildings, with furnaces burning charcoal from the
pinon tree (which looks as if it might be a cross
between a pine and a hemlock spruce). The charcoal
is used for smelting purposes, and there i^ also a good
deal of tar made at the same time. The trees were
small and stunted, apparently about 15 to 20 feet
high ; but the wood is reported to be remarkably hard.
It costs four dollars a cord, and will not split. I must
say the trees look more curious than valuable ; how-
ever, they have proved a fortune to many who bought
them in the forest.

The country appears to breed good useful horses ;
but nowhere can I see that the land can be worth culti-
vating, while there are so many other outlets for farming
and capital in the States. It is said that the grass
(such as it is) is liked by the cattle, and that it becomes
green after the rains, the rainy season being in June
and July. When properly irrigated, no doubt the
country could be farmed at a profit, but I saw nothing

grass

THROUGH MOBMONLANV TO SAX FRANCISCO.

in Colorado which would persuade me to send a farmer
there.

Soon we arrived at Salida, situated on a high open
space, with houses (of wood) rapidly growing up. A
branch line leads from here to Leadville. The place is
beautifully situated, the mountains forming a complete
amphitheatre all round ; we were glad to find a
very good refreshment-room here. On resuming our
journey we comminced the ascent of Marshall's Pass,
the summit of which is 10,900 feet above the sea — the
highest railway pass in America. The whole system
of the Denver and Rio Grande Railway is narrow
gauge — 3 feet instead of 3 feet S inches. The route
winds round and round, and doubles over and over, in
order to reach the summit. We had not gone far
before one of the couplings broke between our car
and the one behind. I was standing on the platform,
and the couplings went with a bang, followed by a
whiz from the signal-cord overhead, which finally
snapped. The car was, however, stopped by the
atmospheric break from running down-hill. Our pro-
gress was rather delayed by an excursion train ahead
of us, which was taking a party of about GOO people
from St. Louis to San Francisco. Their engine came
to a standstill now and then, and ours broke down
also, not only once, but three times ; our last stoppage
being in a snow-shed within a few hundred yards of

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

the summit. No sooner did we stop tliaii out jumped
ji lot of passengers ; and, invariably, many amongst
them began poking about in search of any indication
or minerals. It showed what indefatigable people the
Americans are, and how their restless activity induces
them always to be about something, and never to let
a minute or a chance pass by without trying to turn
it to account. We were nearly two hours late when
we did reach the top, although we had two engines.
The views during the whole ascent were very good,
though the scenery was more desolate than pretty.
The curves are very sharp, and I should think it probable
that there will be a "real big" accident on this section
of the Denver and Rio Grande Eailway at no distant
date. In makin"; the line the workmen have burnt a
great many trees. It is a pity to see such destruction.
Snow-sheds are placed at intervals only, and there is
nothing to prevent good views being obtained during
the ascent. The trees which were most noticeable on
this section of the line were the Finns Enyehnamii,
Arislata, Contorfa, Edtdis, Ponderosa, Virginia cedar,
Popidus F reman fi, Salix.

We were so fortunate as to form the acquaintance
of an American gentleman from Boston, Massachusetts,
who was well up in the botany of the country, and
who gave us a great deal of information about the
various trees and plants which we passed, and was very

THEOUGn MOEMOXLAXD TO SAN FRANCISCO. 27

learned in their habits and mode of growth. As usual
amongst Americans, he was most willing to impart his
knowledge to others ; and his kindness was fully ap-
preciated b}^ us all.

In making the descent one of our engines preceded
us, and we were not sorry to find that we were going
down very slowly and steadily, as we had to look down
great heights, and were anticipating that possibly the
gradients we had noticed during our ascent might be
repeated here ; but the descent on the western seemed
lighter than the ascent on the eastern side. After pass-
ing through a better-looking country, with more grass
and water than we had seen for some time, we arrived at
Gunnistcn City, when we came at last into some lovely
scenery. The city itself is a windy, hot, dusty place,
with a sand storm always blowing, and we came in for
the full benefit of one on our arrival. From here to
Salt Lake City the route of the Denver and Rio Grande
Railway is only just completed ; in fact it was opened on
the 20th of this month (May), so I expect we are some
of tlie first English travellers to run over it ; but prob-
ably it will become a very popular route when the
features of the line are better known. We crossed the
Green River, and afterwards came to Price's River, and
then passed some beautiful white sandstone cliffs which
appeared to take all kinds of oddly peaked shapes. Soon
we were agreeably surprised at entering what is here

LIFE AND LABOUIt IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

ill

called the " Black Cafion," which appeared to me even
finer than the Eoyal Gorge through which we had passed
in the morning. The rocks are not so high, but the
forms are very striking, and the colouring magnificent and
infinitely varied. Besides, trees grow luxuriantly here,
there, and everywhere, whilst the Eoyal Gorge contains
none worth speaking of. There is a broad river rushing
by, with only just room for the railway to pass along.
This canon could hardly ever have been visited before
the line was laid ; it comprises some of the finest rock
scenery I have ever seen, and we came upon such charm-
ing views at every turn of the railway that I was quite
sorry I could not see this beautiful scenery more leisurely
on foot ; but as there is no road or path this could not
have been managed, unless one had walked along the
line itself. Sometimes we came across perfect little bits,
the river in the centre with another river joining it, so
as to form a triangle ; or perhaps a waterfall coming
down from the cliffs above. One remarkable rock specially
attracted our attention. It was a formation just like the
Matterhorn rising out of the valley, with a torrent on each
side rushing down to join the main river. We made a
note of this gorge as the finest we had ever seen ; its
lenorth must be from 20 to 30 miles. The chanofe to it
was all the more delightful from being so unexpected, and
from tb' contrast it formed with the sage- bush scenery
we had passed by earlier in the day. We stopped for

THROUGH MORMONLAXD TO SAN FRANCISCO.

supper at Cimarron, at the end of the pass. The land-
lord there told us he had only had his place open for a
week, and that there was some fine fishing in the neigh-
bourhood. I sliould think this would be a good point at
which to make a halt, so as to explore the pass we have
just been through. Night fell, so we could see no more,
but by the mov^ement of the train, and especially of our
friend the excursion train (which was still ahead of us,
and winding below us), I expect we must have missed
some good scenery, which we might have seen had
we been " on time " ; as it was, we were quite two
hours late. Our darkie informed us, before going to
bed, that we should soon pass over the bridge which
broke down a few days ago, when the engine-driver
and two men were killed. This accident accounted
for all the enq-ines on the Denver and Rio Grande
Railroad being in mourning, black and white rib-
bons, &c. The day had been fine throughout, and not
too warm ; we certainly had had a most charming rail-
way journey. This route is to be recommended on
account of its wonderful scenery.

We passed over the broken bridge about midnight,
crossing it very slowly, but we reached the other
side in safety. I awoke about 5 a.m., and got np
to find that we were leaving tae Rocky Mountains
behind us, and were traversing a regular desert, where
even the sage-bush would hardly grow, and that

.■^1

ih:i

I )

fr '

{''■'■

|l:'

80 LIFE AND LABOUR JX THE FAR, FAR, WEST.

only in patches. There was not a jsign of a drop
of water anywliere about, except in the huge tanks,
which are kept at rei^ular intervals for the use of
the engines. The line of railway was quite open and
unprotected, and the bridges were all of wood. There
was a sharp frost in the morning, but the atmosphere
was clear and bright. We saw the Kockies in the
distance tinged with red. The district through which
we were passing had the appearance on all sides of
having- been the bottom of a hucfe lake. We crossed
the Green River at 9.15 a.m. (three hours late), and for
the moment saw a little green along its banks ; then
everything became brown and sandy again. I do not
know whether any rain ever I'alls in this part, but we
certainly passed over many dried-iip rivers. The moun-
tains reminded me of the hills round Swansea, which
are devoid of vegetation on account of the copper-
smoke ; all here I oked equally bare, and I do not think
I could conscientiously recommend this district to an
emigrant as a field for labour !

Leaving the prairie — of which we had got quite
tired — we reached Price River Gallon, at the mouth of
Avhich are some rocks described as Castle Gate. Here
we saw a very large Pondcrosa tree, the same species as
many of those we had noticed in the Black Canon yes-
terday evening. There were many more about. At
last we arrived at Provo, a Mormon settlement 46 miles

TJIliOUGII MOUMOXLANI) TO SAX FIIAXCISCO. :il

from Salt Lake City, and near Utah Lake, which we
saw in the distance, surrounded by fine mountain
scenery. This was the first Mormon settlement we had
noticed, and the place gave si^^ns of great industry, the
cultivation being very good, with nice orchards dotted
all about. We were told that thirty years ago the
whole of this territory was as much a desert as that
which we had so lately passed through ; irrigation has
therefore certainly done wonders here. The view from
Prove, looking towards Utah Lake, is exceedingly pretty,
backed up by mountains, some of which are partially
snow-covered. The lake itself is fresh water, not salt,
like its neighbour. Salt Lake.

We reached Salt Lake City two hours late, at about
4 p.m. ; and went first to the Walker House Hotel, and
then took a stroll about the city. We found that some
races had been going on during the day, so there were a
lot of roughs about. We walked in the direction of the
Tabernacle, but could not get in, as it was too late in
the day. We amused ourselves by watching all the
passers-by, and wondering if they were Mormons. On
meeting one man with two women, we declared this
must be a Mormon family out for a walk. Later, we
saw a man A\dtli four women, and dubbed them at once
as another Mormon family. It is easy to see which
houses are inhabited by Mormons, for they always have
a separate door for each lady.

■■■t

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1

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LIFE AXD LABOUR ly THE FAB, FAR WEST.

We wjilked up a hill to obtain a good general view
of Salt Lake Cit}', which from this elevation looked
much like an Italian town. The streets are very broad
— too broad indeed — and dreadfully dusty. There are
many shade trees ; and a stream of water runs down a
narrow channel at the side of each street. On the hill
which we ascended behind the city we came upon a
j)arty of Indians, with s(juaws and children, in two
groups, playing cards. We learnt that these people
were devotedly attached to gambling in any and every
form. I cannot say that I admired the beauty of the
various families, but the}' appeared very peaceable, and
did not in the least mind our looking on at their game.
After breakfast the next day (May 3 1st), we went to see
the Tabernacle — whicli is large enough to hold 12,000
people — the Winter Tabernacle, and the New Temple
building, which is in course of construction. The
Tabernacle is a wooden erection, and is wonderfully
built for sound. Standing at one end, we could hear a
man speaking in a low whisper at the other, and even
distinguish what he said. The sound of a pin dropping
on the iloor is also distinctly audible. The seats are
placed in ascending tiers, and are all of wood with
backs. The building is not ornamental, but is simply
intended to accommodate a large number of people, so
that all may see and hear ; both which objects are suc-
cessfully attained. This Tabernacle is used only during

TnnOUGH MOUMOSLAND TO SAX VRANCISCO.

a;j

tlie summer months ; tlie Winter Tabernacle is of nuicli
Huialler dimensions, and is built of stone, and thoroufj^hly
warmed. The New Temple is a fine square block of
buildinf^, now in c:urse of construction. It is bein;^
entirely built of the finest grey granite. The work has
periodically to be stopped till more funds come in, and
it will, [ should think, take many years to complete,
even if ever finished. The site has been very judi-
ciously chosen, both for effect and convenience to the
citizens.

We next called upon President John Taylor (the
successor of Brigham Young), having been told that he
liked seeing strangers. We were, however, informed
that he was out driving, and were asked to call again.
In order to occupy our time, we went to see the late
President's grave, and in so doing passed the house
where he used to accommodate his eighteen wives. The
grave, which we found in a place by itself, was merely a
slab of granite, surrounded by iron railings, with no
name or inscription on it.

On returning, we again called on President John
Taylor, and in due course he came into the room to
receive us. He is a tall, largely-made man, with big-
head and hands. I believe there are six Mrs. Taylors,
and we were rather disappointed at not being intro-
duced to them. The house was a good- sized one, and

everything seemed very comfortable. The President
J)

:ti

LIFE AXl> LABOUR IX THE FaU, FAIt WEST.

told us that tlio Mormon territory was about (KM) luilcs
lo \<r l)y ;}()() broad, and now extended into New Mexico
and Arizona. We visited afterwards the Salt Lake
Muse.' in, wliich is kept by an lOtit^lisbnKin (a Mormon)
who canii her* in 1S()4. Jfe told us ho had then been
one of a party of SOO einiy;rants ; and that for the last
1, ()()() miles they had travelled over the prairie and
desert in ox-caris and wapf^'ons, and had suffered ter-
rible ])rivations. Numbers of his fellow-travellers had
died on the way ; and, thouLi^h so many years a^o, ho
related, with an evidently keen recollection, the hard-
ships they had under<:jone, and the joy and thankful-
ness with which they had at last sighted Salt Lake City
and its well-cultivated lands. On their arrival they had
been kindly cared for and housed by the settlers until
they were able to shift for themselves. We also heard
from this man how the Mormons send out their mis-
sionaries all over the world to make fresh converts, and
induce them to come to the Mormon territory. It
must not, however, be su])posed that all the settlers in
Utah are of the Mormon persuasion, for there are a
great many so-called "Gentiles" among them. Salt
Lake City is beautifully situated at the foot of moun-
tains, which surround it in a kind of semi-circle.
Everything looks prosperous ; the lands are well-stocked
and irrigated, and thoroughly cultivated to the best
advantage ; but there can be no doubt that this system

TIlllOUGH ytOUMONLASD TO SAX FRANCISCO. il5

of Monnoiiisiu sliould be abolislicd ; it is a disi^raoi' to
a civilised coininunity like tlic Ujiitcd States tliat it
should bo allowed. As a matter of fact a law bas been
passed suj)i)ressiii^ it; but when an att«Mii|)t was made
to put this iu force, it was tou. <l that no verdict could
be obtained, owin^ to the majorl^^^y of the jury beiu^^
themselves Mormons. It is often thou«;ht that each
member of this persuasion may have as many wives as
he pleases; but this is not the case; it is only allowed
as a ^reat favour, and each candidate for the privile<^e
has to prove to the satisfaction of the Elders that his
means are sufKcient to support the number of wives he
wishes to have. The original settlers have in most
cases moved south into Arizona, where, ai a greater
distance from civilisation, they can better enjoy a
plurality of wives without restrictions. Salt Lake Cit}'
is, of course, the centre of the Government. TIk; set-
tlements are by no means diminishin<^, but on the
contrary increasing, and more and more of the territory
is, by dint of irrigation, being rapidly brought under
cultivation. I tasted some excellent mutton here, better
than any I have tasted before in America.

The same afternoon we left Salt Lake City by the
4 p.m. train, via Denver and Eio Grande llailway, to
join the Central Pacific llailway at Ogden, having an
hour for dinner at the latter place. The Central Pacific

and Union Pacific llailroads meet here, one going west,
D 2

LIFE AND LABOUR IN TEE FAB, FAB WEST.

i I .

i!;

(

4 !

the other east ; and our route lay west by the Central
Pacific to San Francisco. Now that the Denver and
llio Grande line runs into Ogden, and that therefore
there is direct communication eastwards by this route
to Pueblo, St. Louis, and New York, I expect the
Union Pacific will be mulcted of a good deal of its
eastern trafhc. Starting west from Ogden, the country
seemed poor, the sage-bush being again almost the sole
occupant of the sandy soil.

The following notice was written on the backs of our
tickets : — " Passengers are allowed to carry one canary
each in a cage, without extra charge or fee to the baggage-
man or porter.'' In our car the following notice was
posted up: — " AVaruing — Passengers are hereby warned
against jilaying games of chance with strangers, or
betting on three-cards, monte, strap, or other games.
You will surely be robbed if you do. — A. M. Towne,
General Superintendent." Here is another specimen,
also put up in the cars — " Passengers are requested not
^"0 spit on the lloor of the cars." A line of spittoons
was arranged along the floor, one for every two
passengers.

There was a civil darkie in our Silver Car (Pallmans
are not used at present on this route), and he told us
that to-morrow we should pass through nothing but
sand and desert, and that the windows would have to be
closed, and the ventilators also. This did not sound

I^entral
er and
erefore
i route
2ct the
. of its
iountry
:he sole

i of our
canar}""
iggage-
ice was
V. arned
^ers, or
games.

TOWNK,

ecimen,
jted not
pittoons
ry two

ullnians
; told us
Ung but
Lve to be
)t sound

THBOUan MORMOXLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO. 37

cheerful, and we went to our sleepers expecting a hot
dusty journey on the morrow. Our fears, however, were
hardly justified by the event, happily for us, although
on awaking the next day we found we were still travel-
ling through the same uninteresting country, with
nothing but sage-bush. There were mountains in the
distance along the whole route, which relieved the
monotony, and here and there we saw a patch of culti-
vated land. We were remarkably fortunate after all, in
that there was no dust or great heat, and we enjoyed
inste' 1 a beautiful cool wind. The promised desert was
certainly there, but luckily a heavy fall of rain on the
previous da,y had laid the dust ; in fact, pools of water
were to be seen all along the track, a very unusual
occurrence at this time of the year, but an extremely for-
tunate one for us, as otherwise we should doubtless have
been overwhelmed with dust. We willingly forgave the
darkie his false alarm. The mountains in the distance
looked as if they ought to carry sheep, but probably by
the end of the summer every blade of grass will be burnt
up. We had luncheon at Humbold, a station with some
nice poplar trees round the house ; otherwise the country
was everywhere a desert. But although a desert covered
with sage-bushes (which it appears will thrive on nothing,
and which live to an immense age), there were some
extremely pretty white and yellowish flowers about, which
smelt very sweet and grew in bunches, and we jumped

Ill

■' ; "I

: I

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

1 1

off the cars and gathered a quantity. One portion of
tlie country through which we passed exactly resembled
the sea-shore at low water. Just at dusk we came to a
place called Wads worth, where one ought to branch off
if one wants to see Lake Tahoe. At dusk, directly
after leaving this, we began the ascent of the Sierra
Nevadas ; the scenery here I was very anxious to see,
and, there being a pretty fair moon, I did my best to
see what I could during the night, and in consequence
did not get much sleep. However, as it happened, there
were some very long snow sheds, and probably but little
could have been seen either by day or night. The
darkie, by my orders, awoke me at 3.45 a.m., when we
were just passing " Cape Horn,'' round which point,
high up on the mountains, the railway track is laid.
Ten truck-loads of cattle fell over this point last " fall."*
Beautiful views were obtained in descending the Pacific
slope of the Sierra Nevadas, the whole country looking
like an immense park or arboretum ; all kinds of firs and
pines, such as we grow at home as ornamental trees,
were here flourishing luxuriantly in a wild state. We
stopped at Sacramento for breakfast, and after this
passed on through a fine agricultural country. The
corn crop appeared to be already fit for cutting, and in
some cases the harvest had actually commenced. I found
oub afterwards that it is generally begun before this

• I.e., Autumn.

TmtOUGU MORMONLAXD TO SAN FEAXCISCO. 30

period, but that this had been a wet and backward
season, visible evidences of which were afforded by tlie
swollen state of the rivers through late rains, especially
of the American and Sacramento rivers.

On arriving at Benicia (the place where " the Benicia
Boy,'' Heenan, came from, who fought Sayers some
years ago in England) we crossed an arm of the bay in
a huge ferry-boat, 510 feet long by 120 feet broad,
which took train, engine and all, over in two sections.
A run along the side of the bay brought us to Oakland,
where we left the train and went on board another
enormous ferry-boat, which in about ten minutes
landed us at San Francisco. The city looks very well
from this approach: the harbour is a magnificent one,
being over 40 miles long in one direction, and I do not
know how many in the other. It is surrounded on all
sides by grass hills, the town being built partly at their
base, and partly on one of the hills. These latter look
all parched and burnt up, and there are no trees or green
of any description to be seen. We walked, baggage and
all, to the Palace Hotel, and put up there ; it is an
'^normous building, about the largest hotel in America,
and contains at least 1,000 bedrooms ; my number was
500 on the third floor. Afterwards we went to the
Pacific Steamship Company's Ofiice, and also to the
Yosemite Valley Ofiice, and made various inquiries as to
our future route ; but, this being Saturday, we found the

' f

LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAB WEST.

Lank closed, and could not do all we wished. We went
in search of the Honourable Dr. Gwyn (late Member of
Congress for California), to whom I had an introduction
from an English friend, but he had changed his house,
and we could not find him. In our rambles we had
occasion to use one of the 'Frisco street cars on endless
ropes. They are admirably contrived for going up and
down hill, and their motion is very quiet and agreeable.
The plan seems a simple one : two cars are joinod to one
another, and are attached to a perpetually revolving wire
rope placed in an open groove underground, and worked
by a fixed steam engine. To this rope the cars are
attached, by the simple process of moving a lever which
grips the wire, and thus the cars are carried on until the
conductor releases his hold. In returning to the busi-
ness part of the city, we accidentally came upon the
Chinese quarter, which is entirely inhabited by subjects
of the Celestial Empire, of whom we saw great numbers,
but found it impossible to tell the difference in dress
between the men and women. We visited one of their
shops, and bought some things ; then looked into the
Chinese theatre, and promised the door-keeper we would
come again later in the evening. At almost every other
window we saw individuals having their pig-tails dressed
and their ears cleaned (!) — apparently a very favourite
amusement of theirs. We hurried back to the hotel,
only to find ourselves locked out from dinner ; so we had

THROUGn MORMONLAND TO SAN FRANCISCO.

supper instead, and afterwards set out for the theatre.
The performance was a sight worth seeing once, but
once would he quite enough, as it is hard (for a Euro-
pean at least) to keep up the interest. The acting was
of the feeblest description — indeed, according to our ideas,
it seemed no acting at all ; but each player kept on
chattering and making an immense noise. The so-called
band, mostly comprised of men banging great brass
plates together, was placed on the stage. The dresses
of the performers were very gorgeous, and their features
were partly hidden by long beards unmistakably stuck
on to their lower lips. There were not many European
spectators present, but the building was filled with
Chinese (the ladies being placed by themselves in a
gallery), and they all seemed to appreciate the perform-
ance very much. Subsequently, an offer was made by
one of the employees of the theatre to show us some of
the opium dens and other slums of this quarter; but
we declined the proposal, thinking such sights were
better imagined than seen.

The following day being Sunday, we went to church,
but had a difficulty in finding it at first, as Mitchell by
mistake had looked out the clergyman's house in the direc-
tory instead of the church, so that we went first to the
former ; however, we succeeded eventually in discovering
it. In the afternoon we went in search of Mr. Coleman,
Dr. Gwyn's son-in-law, and left cards at his house.

' ' i

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i I

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

Later wo made an expedition to Cliff House, about six
miles from San Francisco, doinj^ the distance partly by
car, and partly by carria^^e. Cliff House is an hotel
situated facing the Pacific Ocean. The interest there is
centred on two or three rocks about a quarter of a mile
off, out at sea ; on and about these rocks we saw scores
of seals disporting themselves. There must have been
between two and three hundred of them ; they are pro-
tected by the United States Government, and not allowed
to be killed. We were much amused at seeing them
crawling about the rocks, and taking headers into the
water ; we continually heard their barks in the distance.
Walking up to the signal station, we had a good
view from there of the " Golden Gate," as the entrance
into San Francisco Bay is called ; and, after duly admiring
it, we crossed the sand hills, and so, rejoining our
carriage, returned to the city. The next morning,
June 4th, we called upon Mr. Powell, Bank of British
Columbia, General Hutchinson (both in California Street),
and on Mr. Coleman, of the Pacific Transfer Agency,
but found that the latter had gone to England.

Returning to the hotel, we learnt that Dr. Gwyn
himself had been to call on us. He came again later
on, and we settled with him that our best plan for con-
tinuing our tour would be to go to the Yosemite Valley
first, and then that the following Sunday evening he
should, meet us at Madera, and go with us to Los

THIiOUGir MORMONLAND TO SAX FRANCISCO. 43

Angeles and its neighbourhood, in order that wo might
see the vineyards and orange groves of Southern Cali-
fornia. Accordingly, we made a hurried start at 4 p.m ,
having procured tickets to IMadera, Yosemite, Mariposa
Grove of Big Trees, back to Madera, Los Angeles, and
back to 'Frisco. Every one told us that to reach the
Yosemite we ought to go via Madera and back by the
same mute ; but we have since come to the conclusion
that everybody was wrong, as by adopting this plan we
missed seeing the Calaveras grove of big trees.
Doubtless it is the easiest route ; but those who have
time to manage it should go by the one route and
return by the other. I fancy that the best plan w^oiild
be to go from San Francisco rm Stockton to Milton,
stage to Murphys, thence to the Calaveras grove and
back to Milton, and on by stage from there to the
Yosemite. Then, on returning, stage from the Yose-
mite to Clarke's, from there to the Mariposa grove of
big trees, and back to Clarke's ; and the second day
stage to Madera and sleep there, returning to San Fran-
cisco the following morning. This plan would take a
longer time, and entail more staging than the one we
adopted ; but, on the other hand, there would be the
advantage of entering and leaving the valley by dif-
ferent routes, instead of by the same one.

. ■ is

'» 1

CHAPTER Til.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

Madera— Travcllors litnviiro !— Tlio Fresno Flats— A ^Mai^niificcnt Forest— A Ride
behind Six Horses— A tilorious View — Thi; Yosiiiiite Valley — The Mirror
Lake — The Nevada Falls— Glacier Point— I-Jl Capitau— The Dome— Tho
Half Dome— The Cap of Liberty — The Sentinel Doino— Lost in tho
Forest— "Tho I'oint "—Master Bruiu— Hotels in tho Valley.

We left San Francisco by 4 p.m. on Monday, June
4th, by the Central Pacific Eailroad, going over to Oak-
lands by the ferry. The sleeper was full, and the
conductor uncivil, his example in this respect being
followed by the darkie. We met an Englishman of the
name of Veitch on board the train, and subsequently a
Mr. and Mrs. Graham, all bound for the Yosemite.
We thought our tickets included sleepers on the car,
but this proved to be a mistake; and when the con-
ductor came to us about sleepers, we did not quite hit
it off with him. It appeared that he had one or two
uppers to dispose of, but we wanted lower berths, and
as we guessed that there would be an hotel at Madera
(at which place we should be due at midnight) we
decided on sleeping there instead of in the car, which
would be stationary after 12 o'clock, and was sure to be
very hot and stuffy in this warm climate. So we

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

refused the uppers, makin<^ up our niiuds to sleep at
the hotel ; and the conductor thereupon speedily took
his revenge by tellinj^ us to get into the other coach.
We accordingly turned out of the tSleeper, and went
into the ordinary car. However, we made ourselves
very comfortable there; and after a tedious journey
(having had supper at Lathrop) we arrived at Madera
11.50 p.m. I had telegraphed on for rooms, which had
a good etfect, for there was rather a crowd here, but the
landlord was very civil, and insisted u])on serving us
first. I found to my horror I had brought my wrong
travelling bag, having left everything I wanted for use
at San Francisco ! It was very hot at Madera, the
warmest night we had yet experienced. So we con-
gratulated ourselves on being in the hotel rather than
in the hot sleeper, now pleasantly shunted on a siding
for the night. One word of warning as to the San
Francisco Agency for the Yosemite. Do not believe a
word you are told. Most of the information given is
incorrect, the sole object being to sell tickets, and make
people go in and out of the Yosemite Valley viff'
Madera. We had been told that we could go via
Madera, drive to and sleep at Clarke's, visit the
Mariposa grove of big trees /icr/ morning, go on to
the Yosemite, and return via the Stockton route, thus
seeing the Calaveras trees if we wished to do so. We
found, however, that, though we could go via Madera,

4 !!

iilll-c

l!l;

m LIFE AM) LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

and sleep iit Clarke's, wo wore obliij^ed to <^o em by siix^e
earlif next niorning to the Yosomite, instead ot" goiu<;
to see tlie big trees; and that the latter were taken on
the return route, which of course prevented our going
on to Stockton and the Calaveras, and obliged us to
return to Clarke's, or to miss the Mariposa group alto-
gether. This j)lan naturally brings grist to the mill,
both by feeding the stage route and making people
stay two nights instead of one at Clarke's Hotel. We
were up at 4.45 a.m. the next morning. My first
thought was to run to the nearest store and got a rig-
out for our journey, as my "outfit" was reduced to
what I had on, my unfortunate travelling-bag having
been left behind at San Francisco. I soon came out
re-fitted ; having provided myself amongst other pur-
chases with a blue fiannel back-woodsman's shirt, which
I eventually found exceedingly useful. We found that a
great many people were going to the Yosomite Valley
(thirty-six passengers in all), so an extra coach had to
be put on. Some unfortunate travellers who came by
the southern route w^ere left behind at Madera for
twenty -four hours, to await the coach next day. The
first coach started at G a.m. We went by the second,
and set ofi' at 7 a.m., after having gone through the
farce of waiting for the Southern train, simply to tell
the people that the coach was full. We had the three
back seats: Veitch and a friend the box seat; the

THE YO SEMITE VALLEY.

remainin<^ two rows of scats beiii<^ tilled by other
travellers. These coaches are the property ot the
" Yosemite Turnpike Jload Company," whose business
seems badly niana<^ed, and I am told that the Conipimy
pays no dividend, which does not surprise me. The
vehicles are curious-looking things, painted red ; the
body is like the tub of a boat with no bows, and is
slung on leather straps for springs ; and with good
reason, for no other method could withstand the effects
of the fearful jolting of these roads. They carry eleven
passengers, the driver's seat holding two besides him-
self. The coachmen are excellent whips, driving over
these awkward roads with wonderful ease. The team
consists of four and sometimes six horses. They are
little things, cross-breds as a rule ; but sometimes one
finds a thorough-bred mustang among them. The
bumping of the coach is atrocious, and should be felt to
be thoroughly appreciated. The first stage was over
the open prairie, uninteresting, and very hot and dusty.
The next on j was partly over prairie, and then at the
bottom of the foot-hills, and was still hotter and
dustier. The third stage was amongst the foot-hills,
and gradually ascending, till we came to a halt for
luncheon at a place thirty-six miles from Madera and
thirty from Clarke's, whore we also managed to get a
wash and general brush-up, which were sadly needed.
We came across the first fine scenery of our drive

'II

''i

I'
S ; ■ !

48 LIFE ASD LALUUll IN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

ihiriiif^ tlio (losci'iit to Frcsnu Flats, vvlicre vvc obtained
a iiiJiirnilicoiit view of I'orest ;iiul inountiiin. From here
the route gradually re-asceuded, passing the whole way
through beautiful natural forests of the finest timber,
growing here to an immense height. Traees of forest
tires are everywhere noticeable, caused in former times
by Indians, who used to burn the underwood. The
larger trees are therefore in numy cases injured by
fh'e at their base, but the injury to them was acci-
dental. *

We passed some magnificent sj)ecimens of Pondcrosa
(pitch })ine) and of LainharliaHU (sugar pine) ; also
JiaUant, Thuja (//(/anfca, and other pines. The Cali-
fornian and evergreen oaks grow beautifully here,
although not quite so well as in the district on the
other side of Fresno Flats. Shrubs and evergreens
abound everywhere; especially the Manzanita plant,
which is very nuicli like our arbutus. Flowers are to
be seen in every direction, and very many flowering
shrubs, the most noticeable being the Mariposa lily ;
the leather plant, with a large yellow flower, and
the Buck eye, which has a white flower. The drive
was most enjoyable, but a leisurely walk through
this magnificent forest would have been better still ;
ulaced as we were on the coach, we had to be con-
stantly on the look-out for the bumping ; and its
ellects were anything but agreeable. Some of the

Tlll'J YOSIJMITE VALLUY.

Pundcronn and Ldin/jrrtiftna trees run up to 200 and
300 feet in liei»,dil,. We measured one twenty-six I'eet
in cireuniference, and this was by no nie:ins of ex-
ce])tional size.

Our driver handled his six liorses in fine styK',
and we went ah)n<^ at a j^reat j)aee, soon eatchiny"
up the coacii next before us ; but, all the same, we
did not reach Clarke's Hotel until 8.30 p.m., about
an hour and a half behind our time. From Mach'ra
to Clarke's is 06 miles, and on from Clarke's to the
Yosemite is 20 miles — total, 05 miles. We secured
rooms on our arrival, and then found to our surprise
we could not go to the Mariposa grove of Welling-
tonias io-morrow, but tliat the coach would go
on direct to the Yosemite, and that we must see the
Mariposa grove on our return. This was not at all
what we wished, and a considerable discussion ensued.
But the hotel and stage had the entire monopoly ;
there was no other hotel, there were no other horses,
and, being tied to time on account of having to meet
Dr. Gwyn on Sunday evening, we had no alternative
but to do as we were told. So with great reluctance
we made up our minds to go on to the Yosemite in the
morning, leaving the Mariposa grove until our return,
and abandoning the Stockton route out of the Valley
altogether. This decision was not made before we had
tried all sorts of threats with the landlord and the

■'I

'. M'l

I «

:.(>

LIFl'! AM) LAliOl'li IX TlIi: FMi, VMi WEST.

sinu^o foiu])any in pMUM'al, Imt. 1 tlnnk iho inansi<jfor
was ac't'iistonu'd to tins, for we I'duikI out aftcrvvanls
Hull we wore not the lirst tnivcllcrs who had been so
deceived.

We siarti'd oil' for more jolting and l>uni|)ini,' in
the stai;-e at (i.MO a.m. on thi' foMowin^ day, passinjj^
at^ai'.i throui^h mat^nilieent I'orest seenery, and ehanij^in^
lu)rses once. We did not have our white driver oi"
yesterday, but a nijji'ii^er instead, wlio drove well, l)ut
did not take us as fast as we went tlie day before,
lor the road was mueli worse, bein^ very narrow and
bad, and carried mostly at a hiij^h eh»vation aU>n<jf the
side of the uu)untains. The hitter were all densely
timbered, and the i»i5j^antie ])ro})ortions of the j)ines
and th's continued much the sanu' as yesterday. When
we came to " Inspiration Point," seven miles i'rom the
hotel in the N'allev, Clive and I u'ot down to walk,
and Mitchell went on with the coach. The view from
this place, with the Yosemite Valley below, was one
never to be forij^otten. Here we actually were at last,
after years of talk, and after a journey of between 0,000
and 7,0i)0 miles. It was a glorious sight ; the bright
green valley far below us, the trees looking quite
small on account of the distance, the river Merced
llowing along the centre, huge granite mountains
running itiuight down on each side 3,000 to 4,000,
and even 5,000 feet, El Capitan being the most

TUM YOSHMTTI'] VALLHY

r,i

n()ti(;o;il)lo on i\w left i'roin iliis ]M)ini, iind tlu^

Cailicdral Udcks ou i\\o ri^ht. Thv Smtiiicl Donu'

was farther olT, and tin; Hall" Dome, Dome, and (Moud's

Host, vvcro in i\w j^-rcaicr distance. It vv:is a niay'nili-

t'cnt si«^lit ; the ^^ranitc walls eonld hardly hold a

tree, and thou^^h the ininicnsc^ masses of rock at first

looked hare, the elVect of this h'ssened as i\u\ <»ye

rested on the <»'re<'n ol" the valley helow. 'IMie valley

itself is I, ()()() feet above the sea. We had a beantilnl

walk from lnsj)iration J*oint to Cooke's Hotel. I)nrin<^

the first ])art of the des(;eiit w(; saw the " Hiidal Veil

waterfall on our ri^ht, coming tinnl)lin<^ (h)vvn in ii

hufje mass; on our left v/as the " Vir<^in's I'ears,"

which was mere spray by the time it toueJied the

valley. Alter i)assin<; these, the Yosemite Fall itself

(1,000 feet hitj^h) came into vicnv, and before reacliin^

it we arrived at the liotel, Mitchell bavin<^ met us

on the way. The whole of the valley is full of

"sjK'cimen" conifers, beautiful Pondrroaa, Lanifjcr-

fiana, Thuja (/if/nntca, Jialmm, &c., &c. ; then; arc also

some very fine Douglas firs. We came u|)on the first

of the latter after leavin^^ Inspiration Point. We

reached Cooke's Hotel about 3..'i() p.m., and settled

to do nothing more that afternoon, but only to look

at the Yosemite Fall and the other beauties of the

valley, which seemed to impress one more and more

the longer one looked at them. We found the
E 2

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LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

t '

I I

atmosphere of the valley itself rather warm, and there
were a good many mosquitoes about, but later in the
year these troubles would, I should fancy, be far worse
than they were at the time of our visit to the place.
Apparently we had come at the exact time for seeing
the waterfalls to perfection, especially as the season is
rather late this year; in an ordinary season the second,
or even the first, week in May is said to be better;
the flowers would certainly be more in full bloom at
that time ; but still, we saw a great many.

The next day we were up at 4.45 a.m., and after
breakfasting at 5.30, walked to the Mirror Lake to see
the reflection on its surface of the mountain opposite,
when the sun appeared over its summit. There was too
much ripple on the lake for the proper effect, so
that we were rather disappointed in the result, and I
said as much on being asked by an American what
I thought of it. He replied that it was the case with
many. " One American when here said it was nothing

better than a toad pond." However, I cannot

quite agree in this ; the lake is small, but pretty, and
the immense granite mountain coming sheer down in
a precipice of 5,000 feet is a sight in itself. The walk
from the hotel along the flat by the side of the Merced
River is full of beauty. Magnificent conifers grow
in every direction ; and one remarkable thing about
the Yosemite Valley is that all the trees seem to liave

iij

THE YDS E MITE VALLEY. o3

room to grow, and it really forms oue Immouse
arboretum. Weeks could be spent in walking about
examining the trees and making occasional excursions
into the mountains ; but to do this properly one ought
to have plenty of time, and to camp out.

The " Mirror Lake " is distant about three miles
from Cooke's Hotel, and we continued our walk about
another five miles to the Nevada Falls, the route being
at first along the valley on a good road, and then u))
a bridle-path which plunged into the forest all among
loose boulders, still following the river, until we reached
a trail which took us zig-zag up the mountain side.
Immense granite cliffs looked down on us on all sides.
The valley was well timbered, and the scenery lovely
in the extreme. A long pull up the zig-zag path took
us to an upper valley, where we rejoined the river and
saw the Vernal Fall — a beautiful waterfall dashing
down into a deep, dark gorge. Wo had a very fine
view of it, but could not get under it on account of the
spray. A ;nile above this we approached the Nevada
Fall, which is quite different ; not so broad, but much
higher. Three-quarters of the way down it strikes on
an invisible projecting rock, which sends the water
up again for some little distance, only to descend a
second time iu an immense jumble of water and spray.
[ have never before seen a waterfall similar to this ;
and it and the Vernal Fall are both well worth a visit,

•P

. 1

i •
6 ^

■•

54 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

and the more so on account of the beautiful scenery
through wliich they are approached. There is a good
inn at the Nevada Fall, where sleeping accommodatiou
can be procured. A view is obtained from here of
(ilacier Point in the distance (apparently an immense
height), on the summit of which there is also an inn
where a bod can be had. Just behind the little hotel
at Nevada Fall rises the " Cap of Liberty ; " from
here the ascent of " Cloud's Rest " is made, half way
up which I am told there is a small inn. The Nevada
Fall is about five and a half miles from Cooke's
Hotel, but the walk seemed longer. We returned by
the same route as far as the junction of the road
to the Mirror Lake, and then followed the regular road
to the hotel. It was a charming excursion, and we all
enjoyed it immensely.

We agreed to start early the next morning for
rilacier Point before it got too hot, and accordingly
were up again at 4.45 a.m., and after breakfast at 5.30,
set off on foot at G.15 on our expedition, hoping thus
to accomplish the climb in the cool of the morning.
The ascent commenced almost immediately, just behind
the church, the track being a good one, all amongst
shrubs and trees, with no boulders, but sandy and
very steep. The high mountain we were ascending
sheltered us from the sun. The path went up in zig-
zags, and at each turn we obtained most lovely views

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 6r>

of tlie valley beneath, first of all in the direction of
Inspiration Point, and farther up, towards Mirror Lake.
The lii<^her we ascended the more beautiful the valley
looked, with the Merced river flowinj^ along the centre ;
pine-trees of immense size and grandeur each standing
out separately as if purposel}' thinned out, or like
specimens in an arboretum ; and the little fields by
the side of the river forming patches of green, which
relieved the eye after gazing at the desolation of rock
above.

After a steep climb of an hour and a half, we came
to a little flagstaff fixed in the rock, where we halted for
a short rest, and meanwhile admired the view, which
was really a charming one. The pines appeared to
grow out of the solid rock, each tree, whether young or
old, being of wonderful growth and vigour, but not of
such immense size as those we had passed on our drive
from Madera to Clarke's and the Yosemite. On leaving
our flagstaff rest we continued our ascent, but now out
in the open, amongst mountain plants, with no shelter
either from rocks or trees. We still enjoyed the same
beautiful views of the valley beneath us ; but at this
elevation we could see over the tops of the cliffs which
formed its sides, and found that round-headed mountains
constituted the general character of the Sierra Nevada
range, and that the peaks which we had secii from below
were only variations here and there. At a distance of

III

■r

J;*

TJFE AND LATiOrn IX THE FAIl, FAli WEST.

tlii'c'o-(juartc'rs of a mile from Glacier Point we apiin
entered the forest, and saw some more ma<j^niticent
specimens of tlie lir tribe, Douglas, Lani/jcrtinna,
J.a.sciocnrpn, PoHdrroKn, &c., iV'c. On reaching Glacier
Point (a hnt bnilt on the edj^e of a precipice some 3,()()0
feet deep) we had a splendid view oi the Sierra Nevadas,
and np the Little Yosemite Valley, havin<^ now tnrned
our backs upon the Yosemite Valley itself. Jiefore us
lay an enormous section of the mountaii^ rang-e, with
the Vernal Fall risj^ht in front of us, and the Nevada
Fall (which we had visited yesterday) higher uj) on the
same river. There was hardly a blade of grass to be
seen ; but all was one immense mass of granite moinitain
and vallev, with fir-trees distributed in forests and
groups here and there. The timber did not look very
fine, but then it was some distance off ; and, besides, as
its foothold appeared to be nothing but rock, this was,
perliaps, not surprising. The view was so entirely
difierent from what we had left behind when we turned
from the Y'^osemite, that the contrast was very remark-
able. It took us two hours and fifty minutes to reach
Glacier Point from Cooke's Hotel, and the walk well
repaid us, for it was beautiful in the extreme. Not
only ai'e the views very fine, but every tree is a specimen,
although not so large as those in other parts.

By climbing to this height also, we obtained a view
of the wonderful treeless mountains, El Capitan, The

•

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

Dome, Half Dome, the Cap of Liberty, &c. VVe
also saw in the distance what in this part are calh'd
snow-capped mountains ; but in every case the rock is
peeping- throui^h, and in another six weeks* time I do
not beheve that there will be any snow at all upon
them. From Glacier Point we had a most wonderful
view of the Half Dome, an immense granite mountain
rising straight up like a round-headed dolomite, and
then split in two, one side being rounded down smooth,
the other being a straight perpendicular precipice of
some 2,000 feet. This Half Dome divides the two
valleys of the Little Yosemite and the Yosemite Valley
proper.

Looking down, as I did now, upon the Mirror Lake
from a height of about 4,000 feet, the Yankee's expression
comparing it to a toad pond recurred to my mind ; and,
certainly, from this distance, it looked a very insignifi-
cant patch of water. I noted down my impressions of
the view while Clive was busy sketching.

I ought to have mentioned before that the Yose-
mite Fall was visible during the whole of our ascent ;
and besides this, we had also a view of the " Little
Yosemite Fall " (a continuation of the other), which is
not seen to advantage from the valley below ; they can
only be properly seen together whilst ascending the
opposite side of the valley, and their aggregate
height is 2,600 feet. The Yosemite is, I think, the

'iitilli

t'i^:

LlFi: AND LAIlOUlt IX TIIH FAU, FAR WEST.

finest of tlicse waterfalls, but they are all most
beautiful.

After a short rest at Glacier Point, we started off for
the Sentinel Dome, having to ascend ajj^ain throu«(li the
forest, where we saw some magnificent trees, amongst
which w(» especially noticed some Douglas (irs. At first
we misto'»k the trail (f'ootpa "> p" ; go" on the wrong
mountain, but on seeing the N uti tel Dome in the
distance (a barren granite rock \\ltli our fir-tree on the
summit) we made for it, and were well rewarded for
doing so, for we had a splendid view all round, when we
reached the highest point. On the one side were the
Yosemite Falls and Valley, on the other the Nevada Fall,
with the Vernal Fall below ; mountains all round, and
a magnificent panorama of the Sierra Nevadas in the
distance. In one direction were fir-trees growing out of
rocks half covered with snow, quite a wintry scene ; in
another, we looked right down into the valley towards
Milton, a deep-blue haze increasing the beauty of the
view. Again, in another direction we saw the wonderful
Half Dome, the Cap of Liberty, Cloud's Rest, and a
number of other summits. No panorama could be
better ; and it was quite different to anything I have
ever seen in Europe, for the mountains here have a
character of their own, everything looking desolate and
cold, as there are no patches of green grass to relieve
the immensity of the grey granite cliffs -, in fact, there is

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

^<^

no green, except tliat of the interminable dark pines,
which, however beautiful tlu*}' maybe taken individually,
j(ive the ell'ect of dreary sombre masses when se?en from
a distance. During our descent from the Sentinel Dome,
we again lost the trail, and spent nearly an hour hunt-
ing about the forest endeavouring to regain it, before
succeeding in doing so. When one loses one's way in a
forest like this, there is some dilliculty in finding it
again ; we could, however, certainly have retraced our
steps to the Sentinel Dome, although for the moment
we liad lost siglit of it.

On returning to Glacier Point, we stayed there
another couple of hours, and E think the view struck
us even more on this second visit than when we saw it
for the first time. We also went to "The Point,"
which is situated at the head of a sheer precipice of
nearly 4,000 feet. The scene from here is more won-
derful and beautiful than I can describe, embracing as
it does the whole of the Yosemite Valley right and
left, the centre of the valley, far down below, being
overhung by a dark-blue haze, which added gr(»atly to
the effect. The valley looks the perfection of beaut}',
wdth the blue Merced river flowing througli it from end
to end, and gradually widening as the different water-
falls that come down into it help to increase the
volume of water ; here and there patches of green fields,
and all around splendid trees, almost every one of them

l;'i

i ■ :

(50

iJFf'j Axn LAiiorn ix tup: fau, fa a west.

§ >

Jippciiririf^ to stand out sini^ly. This viow from " The
Point" — the real Ghicicr Point — is, I should tliink, one
of tlio lincst of its kind that tlie vvorhl can produce,
C()nil)ininii^, as it does, mountain, valley, and water
scenery of extraordinary heauty. The dee])-l)lue haze
was very remarkahle, and T fancy must be peculiar to
these valleys after mid-day. (A new wag<^on road,
twenty-four miles in len<ifth, is beint^ made from the
summit of (J lacier Point, to join the stage road, mid-
way between Clarke's and the Yosemito.) An English-
man joined us here, and together we slowly began
the descent, being very reluctant to return to the
hot valley after the beautiful mountain breezes wo
had been enjoying. On the way down we cut some
Manzanita walking-sticks ; but it is very dilficult to
procure any good ones. Farther on I noticed some-
thing stirring in the brushwood, and called out that it
was a young bear. Of course we tracked it, and, sure
enough, the footprints confirmed my belief. A bear
had been killed only yesterda]"" in this neighbourhood,
and as the one I saw was a snuiU one, I expect it was
one of the cubs.

The view from half-way down, about 1,000 or 1,500
feet above the valley, was again most striking. Lower
down, the p;;th seemed to wind through an enormous
rockery, with trees and shrubs on each side above and
below, placed as though carefully planted for effect.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

Kvorytliin^ was bcjiutiful, and it rcinindod us of a
rockery adjoining an ftallan villa ; but liert' no human
hand liad created the loveliness — it was all perfectly
natural. This luis been, on the whole, the best :ind
pleasantest excursion we have yet nuide. It occupied
altogether about eleven hours. In the evening we
visited the old stick-nuiker, who lives half a mile off,
and bought some ^lanzanita walking-sticks, this wood
being peculiar to the Sierra Nevadas. The trees
which grow the most luxuriantly on these mountains
are : — Pondcrom or Pitch Pine ; Lambcrtiaim or Sugar
Pine ; Nohil'iH ; (iratidii^ (low in the valley) ; Douglas ;
Balsam; j\l(i/)ili.s (higher up the valley); Contorta lamara
(at a height of 7,000 feet) ; Monti cola (at a height of
10,000 feet) ; Tlnija (pgaiitca (which is very similar to,
if not the same as, Lihro Ci'drn-s DeciirrciiH). Curiously
enough, the Wellingtonias are not scattered among
other trees over the country and mountains, but grow
only in groups, viz., in the Fresno Grove, the Cala-
veras and two other groves, and in the Mariposa Grove,
which we are going to see to-morrow. (The Indian
name for Wellingtonia or Sequoia ^if/antca, is " Wha-
wha-ha-ha.") Almost every tree in the valley runs up to a
height of from 30 to 250 feet. We measured one Douglas
fir, 2G feet round, a^id this was no exception to the general
girth of the trees. Besides which the American Oak
(always green), and our garden evergreen oak grow here

'!>

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i 1

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LIFi: AM) LAIUJUU IN THE FAR, FAR W'KST.

to ju'i'fcction ; and not only liciv, but also all alonLC tlio
road from Trt'sno Flats — distant fifty miles I'nMn the
Yoseuiito Valley itself. 1 could hardly have imagined
that ever«^'reen oaks could ever attain to such mag-
nificent dimensions.

The beauty of the climate is a great advantage in
travelling here, for it is always bright and fine at this
time of the year, ami a rainy day is n(?ver thought of;
so much so, that peo})le were astonished at our having
umbrellas with us, those necessary a{)|)endages to Euro-
pean travelling being here regarded as quite useless.

Yesterday the thermometer stood at i)() degrees in
the shade ; but the heat was not excessive, owing to
the dryness of the atmosphere. For pedestrian expe-
ditions the great drawback is the dust, the paths being
inches deep with dust and sand, and very dry. There
are some rattlesnakes about, for which one must be on
the look-out.

In coming to see the Yosemite, the best route is via
Milton, taking the Calaveras grove of Wellingtonias
c/i rou/c if time permits. There are three hotels in the
valley : Cooke's, Bernard's, and Liebeg's. Of these the
latter is the best to stay at ; and from here the Nevada
Fall and M irror Lake should be visited, and an excur-
sion made to Glacier Point, in each case staying a
night at the hotels at the Nevada Fall and Glacier
Point respectively. The best route for leaving the

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

«]:3

valley is to drive to Clarke's via Inspiration Point
'.twenty-nine niiles), and thence to Madera (sixty-six
miles) ; or else to ^o strai^^ht from Glacier l*oint to
Clarke's hy a new road now in course of construction,
and tlience to Madera, after visitin<; the Mariposa <j^rove
of Wellin^tonias, distant about seven miles from Clarke's
Hotel, and if possible the Fresno Grove also, twelve
miles further on. Fresno Flats is on the road to Madera
(twenty-seven miles from Clarke's) ; and the whole route
bein<^ throui^h beautiful tindicr, this part should, if
possible, be traversed on foot, or on horseback, as so many
of the trees deserve careful and individual examination,
which is impossible from the top of a stai^e-coach.
One great advantaj^e in the Yosemite Valley is that all
the sights are free — an agreeable contrast to Niagara,
where one has to i)ay a dollar at every turn and at each
point of view ; but of course living, &c., is very dear.
Bootblacking is dear : Is. for a pair of boots, as Mitchell
and I found to-day on affording ourselves this luxury.
Washing is also dear: 5d, for a pocket-handkerchief,
and the same for a collar. However, dear or cheap, the
Yosemite ought to be visited, for it is a wonderful and
beautiful sight, of whi' ^ no description can really give
an adequate idea; but once seen, its splendid views,
waterfalls, and magnificent timber, would form a life-
long reminiscence.

The following reliable information was given me :

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LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

— "Hotels in the Yoseniite open (say) May 1st, close
November 1st. Business drops oft' in July and August,
and opens up again from September to the middle of
October. The waterfalls are entirely dry from the
middle of August to October 1st; and, as far as they
are concerned, it is of no use coming here in July or
August, liain generally falls early in October. Stages
commence running in April or May. After August 1st
they only run three times a week, and stop running
altogether November 1st."

_._ , , ,

gust,

le of

the

CHAPTER IV.

they

LOS ANGELES.

[y or

Tlio :SI;in iiiiil tho r.cjir— A :SIr!il of Hcur— Tli'' .Aliiiiposa r!rov(> of Bii;- Trcps—
'J'lio (rrizzly (Jiiint— An Ansjrv Darkid— A 'I'lci; Forest — Aiiioim- ilir
I'loiU'irs— An Expensive Drive — Fonrtocn Miles an Hour Down a
^fountain — An Knerj^ctie Driver — An Interview witli American Fanners
— Their Opinion of California— A lUizzard — Haek in ^[aderu — En roatr
for Los Anf^elt's — How a Native was Surprised— Los An<:;(jlt's — The
Vineviirds of San (iahriel — A Charminijf Villa— A Laeoni • Advertisement
— A Hui;i) (leraniuni Bush — An Island for Sale — I'.aek to San Francisco
— Bay Toint— A Larjje Corn-field —Harvest Operations in California —
At Beuicia again.

On June 9th we reluctantly bade farewell to th(»
Yosemite Valley. We were up a little before 5 a.m.,
and after breakfast at 5.30 set oil' on the coach at O.'M)
for Clarke's Hotel (^O miles distant), driving- alonj.^
the valley to Inspiration Point, and thence on to
Clarke's, by the same route we had traversed on our
arrival. The view from Inspiration Point (from whence
we took our last look at this beautiful valley) impressed
us quite as much as it had done before ; it must indeed
be reckoned as one of the most charming in the world.

We had two box seats and one inside place. When
we stopped to change horses, I was invited to eat bear ;
and it appeared that the animal we had heard talivcd
of as having been killed in the neighbourhood was
ti;e particular bear in question, and had fallen by the

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r.n lift: axd LAnouR jy the far, far west.

liiuid of ;i cleterminod dirty-looking follow, whom we
now saw stjiiidniL;- over its skin. The latter was neatly
|K'o-nvd out on the _i>Tound, under^^'-oing the process of
being" preserved. The man told us that he had been
out after horses, when he met a black bear which

frothed in his fa

ce,

and, he believed, intended to

attack hi)n ; aUliouL;h he never before know an instance
of a boar turning* upon a man without provocation.
Anyhow, he had let olf his rillo and wounded him ;
and then, mana^'inij^ to get away to fetch his dogs, soon
despatched him. The meat was not bad to the taste,
rather like beef, but very tough and difficidt to swallow,
even with the help of jiotatoes and water. I could not
let such a delicacy pass without calling Clive to come
and assist. There was another man in the hut, a
savage-looking fellow, who must either have been half-
starved, or else was verv much devoted to boar's meat,
judging from the way in which he was devouring
it. Our host was very hospitable, but had a peculiar
manner ; and I have since been informed by Mitchell
that a twenty-five gallon cask of whiskey had arrived
at the hut only the previous day, which fact would
]X'rhaps account for a good many oddities. We
reached Clarke's about 1 p.m., after a fearful jolting,
and had a scrimmage at once with the manager, who
wanted to give us only two rooms, instead of three.
Having gained our point, and " got through " a hurried

LOS AXGELES.

lunclieoii, we sot off in ii waixgon and six liorsos (driven
by a nigfifor) for tlie Mariposa Grove of AVellinn'tonias
— " bi<jf trees." It was seven miles distant; and on
reacliinf^ it we drove al)out another ei^-lit miles to
examine the trees — the roads heinij^ plainied so as to
show off the finest specimens to advantaLTO.

yll /o.sf T have seen the hiuf trees, and ^ will q-ivc
my impression of them as nearly as I can. Wc were
drivini^ aloni;' throni^h the forest, not exp('('tini>" to
come upon them, when suddenly we noticed four
immense specimens, which struck us with amazement.
They were planted at rii;'ht auL^les, (piite evenly ;
and were, I should ima<^-ine, each of them at least
250 feet hii;'h, and much nu)re than 1, 0(10 years old.
The hark was of a bri^'htish red colour, like brick-
dust, or brick-dust and Grej^'ory's Powder mixed. The
trunks were straight and upright, running thick for
a considerable height up, and then gradually ta})er-
ing to the top, with not a brancli for at least iilty
feet from the ground ; the top boughs as a rule
are not hirge, and the old trees look more like gigantic
Scotch firs than anything else ; some of the Welling-
tonias keep their shapes as when young, but this is
not the general rule. 1'he trees are scattered over an
area of about two square miles, the road we followed
in order to see them traversing altogether about eight
miles. Tliey do not form the onl}' occupants of the

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LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAJi, FAR WEST.

^rovc (wliicli is really a part of the Sierra Nevada
I'orest, and is at an elevation of about 7,000 feet above
the sea) ; on the eontrary, other forest pines are thickly
studded about. In no case are there many Welliug-
tonias together; they «;'ro\v either sinj^ly, in pairs,
threes, fours, or sixes ; and only occasionally are there
more in one ^roup. This disjmsition adds very much
to the general effect, and shows off these gigantic trees
far better than if they were all together, and the sole
occupant!"' of one wood. Each tree is a picture in itself,
and the bark is of such a bright colour that one can
distinguish them at a great distance through the
forest, at first by the peculiar colour, and then by the
imuKMise size of the trunk.

The brick-dust shade of the bark is particularly
eifective when seen as we saw it, with the sunlight
i'alling on it through the trees, and thus bringing the
Wellington ias out in strong contrast to the darker pine-
trees by which they were surrounded. The branches
are mostly rather short, and stumpy at the ends. There
is one tree called the "Gri/zly Giant," a monster still
in trunk and limb, but it has seen its best days, and now
looks like a memorial of past glory. It is supposed to
be some 1,.jOO years old, and must have been one of the
finest o!" <he Grove in its time ; it is about 30 feet in
diameter, auo took 3<'' paces to walk round. Its upper
branche''. are vcvj large, and dilt'c ent to those of any of

LOS AXGELES.

its neighbours. Some of the other trees, however, [
admired even more than tliis, as they appeared to me
better <j^ro\vn ; possibly they were youn^^-r ; immense
trees they vv^ere, runninL^ up ch^an and strai^ltt as a
hircli-pole to a heij^^lit of 'M)() to 3:2;") feet, and witli
trunks tlie perfection of eoiouriny and growth ; clean,
straight, and beautiful. There are an immense quantity
in the (Jrove, and all have plenty of s{)ace for growth.
There were a good many double trees, and one enormous
one in which a tunnel is cut, through which we drove
(coach, ft)ur horses, and eleven passengers). There are
scarcely any young trees of the size of ours at home, but
those Ididsee have not such healthy-lookingfoliage as our
English ones; wiio knows therefore whether in time we
may not grow in England as big or bigger Wellingtom'as
than those to be seen in the ]\Iari])osa Grove of California?
But if so, it will be a long time hence, in the days of our
very remote successors, if the world lasts long enough.
I procured some genuine seed, which I mean to send
home.

On the whole I was much more struck than I had
anticipated with the immense grandeur of these ^lariposa
Wellingtonias, ind 1 should certainly recommend all
who are able to do so, to come and see them for them-
selves, so as to be able to appreciate, and to feel, their
enormous size. The foliage was so high up that it was
impossible to see it accurately, but I do not think the

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7JFJ7 JX7) LABOUR IX THE FAl!, FAR WEST.

t^n'oen pronccs are vc^y larc^o, and tlio cones are certainly
small. Some of the trees were burnt at their base : this
was the work of the Indians, who, when in possession of
this part, used to fire the forest to i^et rid of the l)rnsh-
wood. There is one dead recumbent tree in the Grove,
which was blown down some time ai^o ; a ladder is
])laced against it, so that one can ascend, and walk about
on the trunk.

There are two c^roves in the Mariposa tj^roup,thc Upper
one containini:;' .'5 G 5 tree,; (of which \:25 are 40 feet in cir-
cumference), and the Lov/e^ Grove, containiiig" 5sO trees.
]\Iany of the trees are named after celebrated individuals,
both American and European. The larj^est spocimc n,
" The Grizzly Giant," is 92 feet in circumference, and
I believe 3.:25 feet in heirrht. One drives through eight
miles of the grove, and the nearest tree of the group is
di.-lantsix miles from Clarke's, the Fresno Grove being
twelve miles from the Mariposa Grove. I am told that the
height of the trees in the Calaveras group surpasses
that of those in the Mariposa Grove ; but after what I
ha\'e seen to-day, I am fully satisfied, and the sight of
tliio> grove only is sufficient to leave a lasting impression
on my mind. On leaving the grove we drove to Clarke's
Hotel, which we reached at 7 p.m., thus making a staging
day of 12J hours. The bumping and shaking we had
undergone were really fearful, but the sight of the trees
had well repaid us for any trouble we had taken in coming.

LOS AXGELES. 71

Next morning- (June lOtli) we wcic up ;it 1. 1 •') a.m..
and the coach not bein<'* due to start lor ^ladera till
() a.m., the darkie waiter was very an^-rv with us Tor
our early liours ; so lie would not <^et us our breakfast
before the usual time, and we had to forag-e for our-
selves. "Clarke's" is a pretty spot, but tlie hotel is not
to be recommeiulcd, being; badly managed and dear :
bad attendance, inferior food, c'C'c, and the cliarge ih
dollars per day. "^I'here were two coaches to start,
taking twenty-two passengers in all, and we did not
get oir till ()..'}() a.m. However, our driver jiroved to
be the best whijt on the road. We took the same
route to Madera as that b}' which we had come "U
the previous Tuesday, and on our way passed a ])ai iy
of about half-a-dozeu people camping out, which is
really the best way to see this country. The drive
(from Clarke's to Fresno Flats, tweiit3'-seven miles)
was exceedingly pretty, being through oiu; imniense
forest. It is all free, so that any one who desires
may come and cut down a tree, and take it away
without charge. The monarchs of the forest are
fortunately so large that they are considered almost
worthless ; the extra trouble in converting them is
thus their safeguard, and the smaller trcM.'s are those
that first of all fall to the woodman's axe. Signs of
the pioneer were here and there visible, and the
secluded approach to the Yosemite is already being

i- \

!li

LIFE AXD lAJlOUn IX Till: FAlt, FAR WEST.

viewed as a source of future f,''iiin. Occasionally a
liiininiock mi^ht be seen slun<;' between two tree;- ; and
ilie doi,^ and rille, filling in tlie picture, were tokens of
some s(|uatter's location. A dense mass of smoke was
anotber si<^-n tbat tbe work of destruction bad com-
menced, and tbat a section of <^-round was beins^
cleared. '^Plie enn'^'rant cuts down in tlu; lirst instance
wbiit timber be requires for leucine', and lor buildiuLC
bis bouse, and tlien proceeds to burn tbe remainder;
and in many cases be burns, not only bis own trees,
but tbe adjoining' ones. Timber is re*»'ardcd as sucb
useless lumber tbat no one tliinks of complaining, but
il is no easy matter to stop a forest iiro wben once
started. AVe passed tbrougb two or tbree of tbose
so-called clearings — smoke, fire, and all, but tbey were
in a balf-extinguisbed state. Tbe forest ])ioneers of
tbis part of Califv)rnia arc bardy, experienced back-
woodsmen, and it is no place for a young band to try
liis fortunes. Clearing a section of forest is an ex-
pensive and arduous task ; and wbat is now being done
in tbe Sierra Nevada mountain forests will not bring
in a great return in ])oint of farming. All tbis district,
now so renu)te from railway communication, will
doubtless be eventually opened up; and tben tbese
magnillcent forests will become a source of wealtb to
tbe timber trade, wbercas now tbe expense of baiding
and conversion is tbeir great safeguard. At a station

LOS ASGELES.

culled IJiifVct I siiw, iuid c<)})a'd oft', tlio Collowiiii^ list
of tolls lor iisiu^" the Company's road IVoiii Fresno
Flats to the Vosemitc : —

Toi-L KOAI). HaTKS of TllLL.

PnssciiLfcr Tciiius, per uniiniil . . 1 dollur.
Freight Tfiuiis „ , .1 (lolliir.

Horsi! iiiul Jlidcr .... T)!) eiMits.

Puck Aniuiuls, \)vx aiiiiniil . . . .'')() cents.

Loose Aniuials ..... .OO cents.

Cattle •_>.") cents.

Slieej) and Hogs .... 10 cents.

Apparently it is rather expensive work to drive alonj
this road, lor there are live toll-irates. W

)assec

IJuU'et at '^..^O a.m. ; the thermometer then stood at
lOO"- in the shade ; and later on, the heat increased, and
it was altoj^jther, I ^hink, the hottest and one of the
dustiest days we huv ^cthad. AVe lunched at twelve,
and tlien proceeded on our journey, ahout which 1 need

not

say much, as we were retnrnuii;- aloui;- the .sanu

route l)y which we had come last Tueschiy, the onlv
dill'erence lu-ini'' that instead of ascendinu" we w(>re
i>"radually descendini^-, and that we were tied to iime,
being bound to catch the ().7 train south from ^Madera
to Los Angeles. Our driver knew this, and he exerted
himself accordingly. Clive and I had the hox seat
(we all three occupied these places in turn) when oj^-
friend, the driver took us down the side of a nioun-

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IJFf: AM) LAIIOUR IN TJIi: FAh\ FAR WEST.

In *

III

t:iiii in Ix'antifiil style, at Ji rate (»f (juito foiirtcon
miles an lioiir. He hud a team of six liorses, jind the
run down was about live miles ; the road a j^'ood ^rade,
but with some very sudden bends and turns, and ex-
tremely narrow (otdy just room to ])ass aloni^) ; the onter
) was not in the best of repair. liesides this

h' al

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e were in many places, oii tlie umer sk

de, si

lari)

projecting" roeks, which would have made it rather
awkward for us had a wle-el touched them. Our
coachman commenced iiummin^^ a tune at the top of

10 incline, w

hieh he did not cease \intil we reached

tlie bottom ; and, during- the whole time, h

e woi

ked

his team with voice, hand, and foot (the right foot
havini,'' command of the break), Not a mistake was
made by horse or man, and it seemed to us a wonderful
feat of driving, especially con>idering the pace at whicli
we went. 1 occupied the outside seat on the box,
Clive being next me, ;nid I had to hold on sometimes
with both hands to prevent myself being jerked off the
coach. These Californian roads are abominably rough,
for they are only cut out, not stoned, and no trouble
is taken to remove projecting rocks ; so that these, com-
bined with the ruts, make the bumping one has to
undergo very unpleasant at times, as we found to our
cost during our drive to the Yosemite and back.
AVhilst on the drive to Madera we formed the acquaint-
ance of two American farmers from the State of Iowa.

LOS AXGHUCS.

7r>

was

Tljoy wort' iiitclliLCcnt incii, and had conic out to tlic
Far West to sec tlic state ol' the coiintrv. Uut they
did not seem as satislic<l with California as tlicy had
expected to l)e, and nuich preferred their own State
of Iowa as a wlieat-])roducini^ country, thouj^'h Ihty
were mucli struck with the orange L;'roves of S(»nt]iern
California. There can, however, he no douht that tlien;
is a field for lahour in thi. country, and at a hiii'h rate
of was^H's ; hut the two seasons (only the dry and the
wet) and the mixture of races — Mexican and Chinese
beini^ employed — are drawbacks to recommending' the
British workman to seek his home so far from Kurope,
when other o])eninjj^s, without these disadvanta<^vs, can
be found nearer home. So i'ar as California as a wheat-
^Towini^ State is concerned, I am of opinion tliat its
best days are over, now that there is so much com-
petition elsewhere ; but I believe it has a «ji-reat future
before it as a vine-growing and orange-producing
district.

When it came to the last stage it was evident that
our chance of catcliing the train at ^Madera (twelve
miles off) was a very doubtful one ; but the remainder
of the journey was over prairie, and our two coaches
both went at full gallop, keeping a little distance apart,
so as to avoid the dust. About a mile from Madera
there was a shout of " the driver's hat," for the latter
had been blown off, and was seen making the best of

IMAGE EVALUATION
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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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LIFE AXD LABOUR tX THE FAU, FAR WEST.

its way tliroiig-h clouds of sand and dust ; ]\[itclioll, how-
ever, managed to secure it after a considerable run.
The dust raised by our two gallopin^^ coaches was
tremendous ; and in addition to this, when about three
miles from Madera, a blizzard (or sand-storm) set in,
which was anythin<^ but pleasant. However, the pace
answered, and at six o'clock, or a little after, we
galloped into Madera station, to find the train already
there, with Dr. Crwyn, who had come all the way from
San Francisco to meet us, anxiously looking out for us.
He said they had all given us up as too late for the
train ; and had this really been the case, it would have
been a great nuisance, and very inconvenient both for
us and for Dr. Gwyn, who had so kindly come from
San Francisco in order to meet us and take us to Los
Angeles to see the vineyards and ornige groves there,
and the farming generally in Southern California ; but
fortunatel}' we just managed to save it, though it was
a close run ; so we jumped into the cars, and presently
set to work to have a good wash and brush up, and to
get ourselves " fixed up " generally, for of course we
were in a dreadful mess, and quite covered with dust
and sand. The blizzard continued for some time
after we weic in the train, blinding everything, and
obliging us to have all the windows and ventilators
closed. This part of California is difficult to irrigate ;
the country looked much more burnt up than it had

LOS ANGELES.

(lone the previous week, and all the flowers appeared
withered. AVe turned into our sleepers rather early,
being very tired ; for the last two nights we had not had
more than four or five hours' sleep ; and though, after
the hard week we had just gone through, I cannot say
that a railway sleeper was the place one would select,
yet, thanks to the fearful bumping we had had on the
coach, we found the rest most delightful, if only by
contrast.

The next morning, however (June 11), I was up at
5 a.m. all the same, and indulged in a wash in a basin
in the lavatory, which rather surprised a Californian
who came in and found me making the best of my time,
with nothing on but a pair of trousers tucked up to the
knees. After a good stare he said " Good morning," to
which I responded, " Good morning, but hot," which
terminated the conversation.

We were passing through a miserable country, im-
possible to irrigate, and entirely burnt up ; quite dif-
ferent "to what I had expected to see in this section of
the country, for I had thought to find good land the
whole way from San Francisco to Los Angeles. It may
be better nearer the Pacific coast, but that would be
twenty miles or more to the westward.

We arrived at Los Angeles 7.55 a.m., and were met
at the Depot by the Hon. De Bath Shorb, of San
Gabriel, with whom we adjourned to the telegraph

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LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAE. FAR WEST.

offico, and wired to San Francisco to get the destination
of our tickets changed from Portland (Oregon) on tlie
17tli, to Victoria (Britisli Columbia) on the 15tli.
Then we went to breakfast, which I suppose was sup-
plied either by J)r. Gwyn's or ]\Ir. Shorb's orders. It
consisted of mayonnaise of lobster, and sauterne ; cold
asparagus, fried trout, roast chicken, omelette, cherries,
strawberries, and coffee ; after which we were ollered
champagne, which we declined, and had a cigar instead.
Contrary to our expectations, Los Angeles is not at all
a pretty place. It seemed markedly Spanish in its
aspect and numners. After breakfast (at which I
should have mentioiied that we were joined by the
j\Iayor of Los Angeles), we started off' in a carriage
drawn by four grey horses to see the vineyards of San
Gabriel. On our arrival at one of these, we were
taken over an extensive range of new buildings, which
had just been put up ; and then had to taste all the
wines, of which we thought the best were port and
Ano;elica. Afterwards we were driven throuuh the vine-
yard, and then on through others, until we reached
Mr. Shorb's house, where we were regaled with cake
and mint julep — the latter is a compound of whisky,
sugar, water, and ice, and is a nice cooling drink. As
we had hardly tasted anything but water for the last
three weeks, this visit to the vineyards made rather a
diff'erence in our mode of living. After a short rest,

LOS AXGELES.

?.>

Mr. Sliorb, tlio ^Liyor of Los Angeles, Olive, ^Mitchell,
and I, drovT on in our carriage and four to call upon a
Mr. Rose, of Sunny Slopes, and see his vineyard and
orangery, and also his stud of horses, which are very
good. The vineyard appeared to be in excellent order,
and the crop of oranges and lemons very abundant.
Great quantities of these hitter fruits are produced in
this country. They are sold here at the rate of 1 dollar
50 cents, per box of about 1:20 oranges. We noticed a
great many pomegranate trees in bloom. It is a very
pretty shrub, with a red (lower (often double), and
some of the hedges are formed of it.

Later on we continued our drive to the Sierra Madre
ViUa, where we were to pass the night. This is a
remarkably pretty place, completely surrounded by
vineyards, and orange and lemon groves, and with large
bushes of geranium (six feet high), growing in the
garden and grounds. This place (an hotel) is thirteen
miles from Los Angeles, and is situated 1,800 feet
above the sea, on a slope of the Sierra Madre Moun-
tains. AVe had very nice rooms, and I was glad of a
little rest ; and, with a cigar and arm-chair, and my feet
well out of my bed-room window, succeeded in makin
myself very comfortable for a bit ; enjoying meantime
the beautiful view towards the Pacific Ocean, of which,
though twent3^-five miles distant, we could here obtain
a glimpse. The climate in these parts is delightful.

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Lirn AXD LABOUR IX THE FAB, FAR WEST.

This evonini;^ thero wiis ;i nice breeze, and it was not at
all too warm. There was a very slight fall of rain
(luring tlie da}' — rcrj/ little, but still certainly rain — a
most unusual occurrence at this time of year. Dr.
Gwyn told us that durinj^ his thirty-five years' expe-
rience, he had never before known it happen at this
season.

We had passed an extremely pleasant day, and I am
very glad we came to this southern part of California,
and that I have seen what a luxuriant country it can
be made, provided water can be obtained for irrigation.
We were disappointed with Los Angeles, Avhicli we had
expected to find a very pretty place ; and the drive of
ten or twelve miles from there to the San Gabriel wine
manufiictory is mostly over prairie, and is nninteresting
in point of scenery; but the view from the Sierra
Madre Villa is decidedly good, though not so very
remarkable. A plain in the foreground, studded with
orange-groves and vineyards, and low mountains to the
right and left. A great many invalids come here as a
health-resort during the winter (from October to April),
on account of the dryness of the soil and the pleasant
climate. The principal drawback to the place appears
to be the presence of rattlesnakes, of which there are a

ood

many

about.

Chinese and Mexican workmen are much employed
here; we saw six of the former eno-acred in filling a

the

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LOf? AXGELES.

cart, on our arrival at the villa. The following notice
was put up outside a saloon on the Southern Paciile
Kailway, at a station house called Lan<r, which we passed
this morning: — "Eating Mouse. (Jood, you het." In
Los Angeles I saw a tradesman playing a custonu'r
over the counter for cigars with dice ; double or (piits,
I suppose.

I was very glad ofc" a few hours' rest in this charming
place, where everything is so quiet; but all the same,
I did not get to bed till nearly twelve o'clock, for I
had a good many letters to write. When we awoke tlu'
following; mornin"" the birds in the oran^'e-ijroves were
singing merrily. I was up at (5.50, and alter breakfast
(it being a nice cool morning) we went into an orange-
grove to pick and eat the fruit ; for oranges are never so
nice as when one picks them for oneself straight off the
tree. AVhile thus occupied, I noticed a large geranium
bush, growing almost wild ; the topmost flower was as
high as my head. About 11.30 we very reluctantly left
the Sierra Madre Villa and its pleasant quiet, and set otf
in a two-horse buggy, in charge of the clerk from the
hotel, who was to take us for a drive, and land us at
Mr. Shorb's (our host of yesterday) in time for luncheon.
We went with him to see two new orange-groves, and
then to a large scattered village called Pasadena, built
on land sold in lots by Mr. Shorb. Nine years ago
there was not a house in the place ; it is now divided

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LIFE AND LABOUR LY THE FAR, FAR WEST.

into lots of five acres und upvviirds, and a very thriving
community is arising, nearly every house having its
orange-grove or vineyard. There is no saloon or public-
li(nise in the place, and all the people by mutual consent
(are supposed to) drink water oi'ly. Houses are being
rapidly built, and I saw a large hotel in course of con-
struction. On the whole I take Pasadena to be a place
with n future beAjre it, partly on account of its climate,
which will make it a winter resort for invalids.

On our arrival at Mr. Shorb's house, about 1.30, we
were immediately presented with a mint-julep; this was
(juickly followed by luncheon, which was a feast indeed.
We were waited on by a Chinese, whose sex we could
not make out : 1 thought it was a woman, but Mitchell,
judging by the feet, declared it was a man. The enter-
tainment was a splendid one, with all sorts of Californiau
wines, and champagne to finish up with. Mrs. and Miss
Shorb, and a very polite nephew, joined us at the feast.
I understand that Mr. Shorb is in treaty to buy the
island of Santa Catalina, of which we could just catch
a distant glimpse from here; it is about 27,000 acres in
extent. After luncheon we drove to San Gabriel Station,
where we said good-bye to Mr. Shorb, but before doing
so, I asked him to send ten gallons of Californian port,
and the same quantity of Angelica wine, home to me in
Herefordshire.

We returned from San Gabriel to Los Angeles, and

LOS AXCELES.

8:i

there caught the tniiii for Sail Francisco, in which we
procured shvpers, Dr. (iwyn still ucconipatiying us.
The drawback to the Los An^-ch's district, and to other
parts of California, appears to be the dilHculty of gettiu'^
water for purposes of irrigation. Fuel is also scarce ; but,
of course, in such a warm climate comparatively little is
required, and wood is principally used for the purpose.
The country is, however, very bare of trees for fuel, a
great deal having been already cut down ; but I saw some
groves of Eucalyptus being planted, which shows that
tlie inhabitants have an eye to the future. I was told
that soft coal, brought from Australia, costs as much as
ten dollars (£2) per ton. There are a great many tropical
plants growing near San Gabriel ; and I hear that in
April, and the beginning of ^lay, the fields are covered
with masses of beautiful w^ild flowers. English walnut-
trees thrive well here, and a great many are being
planted ; fig-trees of large size grow in the fields, and
currant and gooseberry bushes and almond-trees abound.
Cherries are just being imported, and, as far as they have
been tried, do well. Xary pretty avenues are formed of
the pepper-tree, which is both shady and handsome in
its growth. Chinese and Mexicans are tlie gardeners,
and do the grape-pruning, and indeed all the work, even
to selling vegetables to the natives, instead of the latter
growing them for themselves. I am told that this
mixture of races in labour is freely employed ; otherwise

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Lirr: j.vn LAV.nrn in tut: rw, fat: west.

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one iniu'lit liiivc tli()ii<'-lit it rutlicr ohjcctionuble. The
next nK^rnint^ (Jmic l.'i) we passed tliroui^'li Ji drcarv
country, sadly in want ol' water and rain. We liavo
really been most fortunate in the weather, Tor thonyli it
was vor}' hot when we took the oars i^"oin<^ south, yet
yesterday and to-day have both been very ])leasant, and
nice and cool. AVe breakfasted at ^Merced, where we
came across two men, whom we had previously seen in
the Yosemite, driving- a large car covered with advertising
])lacards, and who had told us that their object in
travelling the country in such a way was " to run an
advertisement." AVe reached San Francisco at 2. 'JO
p.m., having passed ]}ay Point at 12.30, at which place
l-)r. Gwyvi's son has an estate of 2,000 or 2,500 acres.

On our arrival at San Francisco, we went at once to
tlie Palace Hotel, and then to Mr. Powell's, to secure
our tickets on board the Dakota, of the Pacific Steam
Ship ComjDany, which was to sail on Friday for Victoria
(British Columbia) ; after whicli we visited the Dakota
herself, and thought she looked rather like an old tub,
with one of the old-fashioned ascending and descending
high-pressure shafts. We afterwards saw the Portland
(Oregon) boats, which are fine new vessels ; also the
Chinese and Australian line steamers. Among the latter
we were fortunate in seeing the Cifj/ of PcJcin, a very
fine vessel, which was to sail next da}'. Here we were
amused by the sight of some Chinese eating their dinner

ms AXGELESI.

of rice witli cliopsticks. After r('tui'iiiii<4" to tlu' Palace
Hotel wo took aiiotlicr stroll about the streets bel'oi'e
coiiiiun- ill for the iiio-lit.

Dr. (jivvyn liad asked us to visit his son's j)la('e at
JJay Point, so we met hiui to-day (.June I Ith) at the
Central Paeifie Station, and arrived at Bay Pointat 12. .'iO,
where we were met by the Honourable Mr. Gwyn, jun.,
and taken for d drive throuu'h vast eorn-tlelds, one beinj^*
as large as 040 aeres, or ii s([uare mile. Young Mr. ( Jwyn
drove me in his buggy, while Dr. Gwyn wen> with
CMive and Mitehell. The Culifornian eorn crop does
not appear to me to be larger, in ])oint of bushels to the
acre, than that in England; but the great advantage
they have over us is, that there is no uneertainty as to
fine weather for harvest; the only doubt is whether or
not there will be a sufficient quantity of rain after the
seed is planted, and, as far as I could gather, there is a
failure in this respect about once in six or seven years.
As to the harvest operations, the grain is threshed and
bagged in the fields, the sacks remaining there, or along-
side the railway track, until fetched away by the cars ;
for, as there is no fear of any rain, it is unnecessary to
place them under cover, or to house them in granaries.
The straw is either burnt, or turned in, according to the
mode of cutting; and if there are any cattle on the
ranche, of course what is required for them is kept.
Different machinery is used for cutting the wheat ; on<3

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LIFH AXD LMinrJ! IS' THE FAli, I'AU WEST.

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macliinc is ;i " licadcr," i.e., it just takes oil' the licads ;
nnotlicr is a vory clever one, and lirads, stacks, and
tlireslu'S tlie corn and puts it into sacks by a successive
process. Wiiat is called " hay " in this country is
really oats, harley, or wheat, <'ut when i^-reen, which, after
heiui^ left for a short time in heaps in the lield to dry, is
stored in a harn for use. ^rh(> straw, with the ^-rain left
in it, is freely eaten hy the horses. These latter are of
a suj)erior breed, and ^"o alonj^" at a <^'ood pace ; both they
and the livestock y-enerally looked very well and healthy,
bein^' fat and sleek, and alto^'ether in y;ood con-
dition.

On our arrival at Bay Point we wore each presented
with a mint-julep, made by Mrs. Gwyn herself; and this
was s])eedily followed by lunclieon, at which we were
joined by IMrs. Gwyn, three lady friends, and a ne])hew.
Afterwards we started oil" to see some more farm-lands,
young j\Ir. Gwyn being our charioteer. We had a long
drive through the ])artially-ri])ened corn-fields, until we
really began to grow tired of tlie siglit of the golden
mass. The harvest is rather backward this year; it
gi'nerally commences at the end of May or early in June.
1 ascertained here that corn farms are simply called
"ranches," a grass farm being distinguished as a " cattle
ranche."

At a place called ^lai-ting, where a fish-canning
business is carried on, we said good-bye to Mr. Gwyn,

LOS Axain.KS.

jun., imd, iuci.iMpiiiiitd l)y Di". Civv}n, crnsscd in a
stcaiiiboat ferry to Hcnicia, wlicrc we ci\\\<^\\i the train on
tlio Central Pacilic IJailway, and after brini;- carried
(train and all) across the ^nip in the line in a hn«re ferry-
boat, we went on to Oaklands, where wc took the
ferry a«,niin, and finally reached San Francisco about
7.30 p.m.

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CHAPTEll V.

UP THE COAST TO VICTORIA.

On Board the Dnlota — A Last Glimpse of San Francisco — Imjirovinp: the
Ocvasioii— " No moro Sou" — A View of the Olympians — Vancouver's
Island— The Straits of Sun Juan— Cape Flattery- " These Sleepy
Fni^lisli" — AVaiting for a Tug — At Victoria — Xe<>lected Streets— The
Tiieutcnant-Governor — Mr. Justice AValkem — The iSwiftsure — Fsquimalt —
Jlonnt liaker— Chinese Servi'nts — Tlieir Trustworthiness — Saanich —
Hack to Victoria.

AVe were busy next morning preparing for our start to
British Columbia. Amongst other purchases I bought
some excellent photographs of the Yosemite, &c. As I
wanted to send home some things which I could spare,
and a few valuables, in the shape of broken stones,
bits of bark, &c., for the children's museum, I had a
great scurry and hunt to find a suitable box in which to
pack them ; but I finally discovered one in the cellar of
a dry goods shop. The shop -boy there w^ould keep on
informing me that he " guessed he had lost his knife,"
to which I replied that I guessed I would fiot give him
another one.

Dr. Gwyn called at 1 1 o'clock, and we had promised
to be at the Palace Hotel to meet him, for it had been
arranged that he should take us to call on Mr. Crocker,
the President of the Southern Pacific Railroad, and

Ur THE COAST TO VICTORIA.

Second Vice-President of the Central Pacific Rjiilway.
The "endless rope" cars of San Francisco are quite a
feature of the place. They ascend and descend a series
of hills in the most charmingly quiet manner, without
any noise or shaking. We found tliem most convenient,
and constantly made use of them in going from one part
of the city to another.

Our kind friend, Dr. Gvvyn, had done so much to
make our visit to San Francisco a pleasant one, that it
was with great regret that we said farewell to him, and
hurried off to catch our boat, which was timed to
leave at 2 p.m. He had been making all sorts of
engagements for us, until he found that we had no
dress-clothes with us — for we had sent them direct to
Toronto from ^ew York — otherwise we might have seen
a good deal of San Francisco society. One entertain-
ment would have been for this evening in the form of a
dinner-party of thirty ; but on the whole things are just
as well as they are, for all this would have delayed our
progress a good deal, which would not have been very
convenient to us during this trip.

We drove down from the Palace Hotel to the
^kiJcota steamer, and stopped at the post-office on
our way, where we were fortunate in just catching the
mail and receiving some letters. It takes about three
weeks for letters from home to reach San Francisco.
The newspapers were not sorted, so we could not get

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LIFE AND LABOUR m TEE FAR, FAR WEST.

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ours. Tlie last Englisli paper we have seen is dated
al)out 25tli May, so we are getting rather behind the
times, for the American papers contain but little Eng-
lish news. We left directions for future letters to be
forwarded to Portland (Oregon), and then drove on to
the wharf, Avhich we reached at 2 p.m., and found a
large crowd waiting there to see the Dakota off to
Victoria. We heard that she had refused yesterday to
take any more freight ; so, as she is not a large vessel,
we expected to be rather crowded wl3n we found that
we were to be 534 passengers on board, including emi-
grants. We had a pretty good deck-cabin, to hold
three. We called it our sardine-box, and it was rather
a tight fit. There was a great crowd for drawing places
at the dinner-table, and we did not notice when the
drawing commenced ; so we were told off for the second
table, and came in for second dinner, as there were too
many people to be accommodated at one time in the
saloon.

Just before passing out of the " Golden Gate," we
took our last look at San Francisco. It was a pretty
sight ; but I do not think the approach from the sea is
very good. Perhaps one would appreciate it more if
one had been some time at sea. The weather was
rather cloudy, and looked like wind. Our company on
board were a rough lot, and I was glad to hear, in
answer to an inquiry made by one of the passengers,

UP THE COAST TO VICTORIA.

that there was no "bar" {i.e., place to buy drink) on
board. Soon after ei<^ht o'clock the steward commenced
putting a long line of mattresses down on the floor of
the saloon, for those passengers who could not procure
berths or cabins, so we had to turn into our " sardine-
box" pretty early, in order to be out of the way.

Though we were tightly packed, our little cabin
was so well ventilated that the presence of three
"sardines" did not appear to make much difference to
the atmosphere. The weather had become quite cold
in the evening after leaving San Francisco, and we were
surprised to learn the next morning that this was tlie
usual temperature, and that it was never very warm on
this coast. There was a little swell, and I was told
that a storm was predicted for the 21st, so altogether
the Pacific Ocean is different from what I had fancied it,
for I had expected warm weather, and never more than
a ripple on the water. AYe waited humbly, seated out-
side the saloon, when breakfast commenced, mindful that
we had only second turn; but as the swell of the
Pacific Ocean had had the usual effect on the majority
of the passengers, half the guests could not put in an
appearance, so we poor wanderers were allowed to go in
and eat with the grandees of the first detachment, com-
posed of a class which I cannot as yet determine, until
I have had further opportunity of judging.

The Bakota is a steady old vessel with paddle-

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LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAll, FAB WEST.

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wheels, und is a little inclined to pitch ; iiud prohiihly
it was thanks to this proclivity of hers that we were
included in the first table, for at luncheon time there
was no chani^e in the arran<^ements, except that there
were perhaps even fewer faces than at breakfast. The
sea was really not at all rough, but the steamer pitched
a little, and there was some shaking from the engines,
which I found quite enough to prevent my using my
pen very steadily. The weather was rather warmer
tlum on the previous evening, but still cold and cloudy.
We only ran 190 miles up t<» twelve o'clock, which
proved the Dakota to be anything but a fast vessel.
San Francisco is distant 7oG miles from Victoria (British
Columbia), and we must mend our pace if we are to
arrive there by 2 p.m., Monday the ISth, which is the
date and time at which we hope to be released from
this slow old tub — whose name, by the way, I think
ought to be changed, for " Dakota " is a good go-a-
head State, and our old vessel is very, very slow, not
making: more than ei^'ht or nine miles an hour.

We turned into our sardine-box rather early, as
there was nothing else to do, for the nights are cold,
and the floor of the saloon taken up, as before, wdth the
mattresses for the extra passengers after 8 p.m.

Next day, Sunday (June 17tli), everything went on
in much the same way, and several of the passengers
again spent the day in bed. Service was held in the

UP THE COAST TO VICTORIA.

saloon in the forenoon ; I do not know to what
denomination the offieiatuii^ minister belonged, but he
read a prayer, and a cliapter from tlie Bible, and then
gave us a sermon in which he told us he was from
San Francisco. His discourse was a very ])('culiar one,
and rather disjointed ; in it he quoted from Rev'elation
xxi. 1, and informed us that he could not give a
description of heaven ; but he gave us a few words
on the subject, and said, among other things : " lie-
member there will be no sea; that will doubtless l)e
pleasant to many of us ; if is ,so naim'xitincj. llemember
there wnll be no sea, no oc:»an, and how glad many
of us will be that it should be so." He stated further
that some people said that heaven would be in some
planet, or even on this earth ; but the burden of his
discourse was that there would be no sea.

At twelve o'clock we had run only 200 miles since
yesterday, which is at the rate of about eight and a half
miles an hour ; so the Dakota continues to prove herself
not a fast vessel, and would hardly do to compete with
the Germanic or the JIaxJca in the Atlantic service.
We are (as I said) 534 passengers on board ; many
of them are emigrants, and about 150 are saloon
j^assengers. They are mostly a queer-looking lot, and
difficult to make out. Some of them are going to take
up land ; some are merely land-jobbers , others are, J
suppose, on their way to the Canadian Pacific liailway ;

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LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

but most appear to bo small speculators going to see
what they can get out of the new country — British
Columlna and Washington Territory now being opened
up. Apparently every one is anxious to know where
tlie Pacific terminus of the Canadian Pacific Jlailway
is eventually to be made, but this is kept so quiet that
no one can ascertain it with any certainty, and indeed
it has lately been changed.

We had a stiff head wind all the afternoon, so strong
that we thought our old ship would come to a complete
standstill. The weather was still cold, and we found
our great-coats very useful ; and, in fact, felt that we
should be glad of a little warmer weather on landing.
])uring the whole day nothing occurred to relieve the
monotony of the journey; for, of course, although follow-
ing the coast-line, we were out of sight of land.

The next morning there was not so much wind, but
as it was still dead against us, we expected to be about
twelve hours late in arriving at Victoria. At noon we
had run 2.25 miles since the previous day. About 1.30
p.m. we were rejoiced by the sight of land, and found it
was the coast-line of Washington Territory; such beautiful
mountains (the Olympian Kange) in the distance, capped
with snow, and immense forests coming right down
to the coast, with green grass in patches just above the
ocean-line; it was so pleasant to see a little green
once more. We passed Cape I'lattery and its light-

IT THE COAST TO VICTORIA.

house at about 5.35 p.m., admiring the view as we
(lid so, which was very line indeed.

We were just rounding the point to enter tlie Straits
of San Juan, and before us on the other side lay
Vancouver's Ishmd (British Territory) with mountains
clothed from summit to base with forest. The straits
are eleven miles broad, and in their centre rests the
international boundary between the United States and
British Columbia, Washington Territory appears here
to be one mass of forest comin"; close down to the water's
edge. Before us lay the Olympian Range of ^lountains,
covered with snow. I look upon these as being the
finest mountain-chain I have seen in America, and the
scenery as a whole seems to me much better tluin that
of the Rocky Mountains. The view from Cape Flattery
would make a very pretty picture, with the dark green
forest rising in tiers, mountain upon mountain com-
pletely covered with fir-trees ; the lighthouse standing
on a grassy knoll with dark caves beneath ; brown sea-
weed on the rocks, and the waters of the Pacific Ocean
filling up the rest.

We had sixty miles to run from Flattery Point to
Victoria, and the captain said we should be there b}
11 p.m. When we were about four miles distant the
Dakota made signals for a tug ; and receiving no
response, at last fired off a gun, which made a great
noise, and awakened all the chickens on board. No

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LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

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reply, however, ciime from land, wliicli induced our
American captain (who was a capital fellow, by-the-by)
to shout out, " No wonder gettin<^ no answer when one
comes across these sleepy English !" We had therefore
to lay to for a bit, the wind meanwhile blowing pretty
fresh. In the coursr^ of an hour a signal came from
land, and eventually the long-looked-for tug, by which
we were taken, through a very winding course, into the
harbour and up to the wharf, where we arrived soon
after midnight. There was a good moon, which enabled
us to see all the operations of the vessel, and to dis-
tinguish the shore besides.

Clive had already gone to bed when we reached the
wharf, so he and Mitchell stuck to the vessel, but I went
ashore, and secured a room at Driard House Hotel, very
pleased to find myself landed at Victoria, British Colum-
bia, at last, though it seems a long way from home,
especially when one considers that a letter takes nearly a
month to reach England from here.

We had left San Francisco at 12.30 p.m., June 15th,
and reached Victoria at midnight, June 18th. The run
of the Baliota was as follows : —

June 16tli .

. 12 noon .

. 190 miles.

„ 17Lh .

. 206 „

„ 18th .

>»

. 225 „

„ 18th .

. miduiglit .

. 135 „

Clive and Mitchell made their appearance about

the r

wall,

abou^

founc

that

wardj

well

tions

tary,

us ab

Club,

We ^

were

the 1]

ment

boat)

UP THE COAST TO VICTORIA.

7 a.m. the next morninf^ (having slept on the Dako/a),
and after breakfast we sa'iied out to see Victoria, which
struck us as very ^Liglish in appearance; tiie streets
rather untidy, like those in English country towns, with
grass growing, excepting in the main streets, on the
side walks, and everything nice and green, quite a
difference to burnt-up California. Each house seemed
to have a pretty flower-garden attached, much the same
as one sees in Jersey or Guernsey ; one little place
especially we noticed, covered with a mass of creepers
hanging in festoons. Clive and I called in the course of
the morning upon the Lieutenant-Governor, Mr, Corn-
wall, at Government Plouse, which is beautifully situated,
about a mile, or a little more, from the town. We
found him at home, and he invited us to dine with him
that evening, and to bring Mitchell also. We aftei-
wards called npon Mr. Justice Walkem, to whom, as
well as to the Lieutenant-Governor, I had introduc-
tions from friends in England. The Governor's secre-
tary, Captain Tatlow, came in the afternoon, and lionised
us about Victoria, putting our names down at the Union
Club, where he introduced us to some of the members.
We went round one of the Hudson's Bay stores, and
were much struck with the appearance of the place, and
the utility of its contents. It was a great disappoint-
ment to us to find that the Otter (the Hudson's J^ay

boat) had started only yesterday on a trip up the coast,
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TJFE AXD LABOUn IX THE 7M/.', FAR WEST.

witli stores for tlio (lilFL'ri'nt ports. Viv should very
much have liked to i^o by tliis vessel ; and, had we been
able to do so, we should have seen a i^reat deal more
of the country than by an ordinary steamer, as we
should have visited all the numerous Hudson's ]5ay
Company's stations up the various creeks and inlets.
Unfortunately for us, these boats make their trips up
the coast only (»nce a fortni<^ht, so there was no other
chance ; and on inquirin^^ about other routes northwards,
we found that no steamer at all was ^'■oin<^ at present.

Later in the day Mr. Justice Walkem came to call
i)n us, and asked us to dinner for Thursday evenin<^.
So far 1 like Victoria very much indeed ; and we are
told that the climate is excellent, and the temperature
always moderate.

The hills north and west of the town are not
high, but are completely covered with fir-trees ; the finest
views are to be obtained in the direction of Washington
Territory, not in that of British Columbia. The harbour
is very narrow and difficult of approach, so I should not
think Victoria can ever be a large port ; and there does
not appear to be much cultivated land, or indeed land
much adapted for cultivation, in the immediate vicinity.
We dined with the Lieutenant-Governor in the evening,
as previously arranged, but left early, as he and Mrs.
Cornwall were going to a party. Mr. Justice Walkem
called again the next morning, and we went with him to

gre(
Th
awr
was

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UP THE COAST TO VICTOlil.U

'.)'.»

sue the Government Houses, and also tlie Courts over
vvliicli lie presided. Later in tlie day we were intro-
duced to .Judi^v Grey, after wliieli wo called at tlie Hank
of North America, and at that of British Cohimhia.
Mitchell had an introduction to the Manau'er (»r the
latter, but he was not at home, so we were received hv
the Deputy-Mana^j^er, Mr. Jones, who altordi-d us a y'reat
deal of information.

It had been previously settled that we were to have
luncheon at Government House, and afterwards j^'o to a
party on board II. M.S. StriJ'/,snn> (an En^ji-lish war vessi-i
of 10 ^uns lyino- in Esquimalt Hay), and we ofl'ered
Mr. Jones a lift both ways, he undertaking" to show us
some pretty scenery in the nei^-hbom-hood on the return
journey. Accordingly, after lunchin*:^ with the Governor,
we picked up Mr. Jones, and drove on to the landing-
stage at Esquimalt Bay, off which the Swiffsure was lying.
We v.'^ent on board with the Lieutenant-Governor, who
was received by Captain Atcheson and the officers, and was
greeted by the strains of "God save the Queen."
The ship looked very gay, all decked out with flags and
awnings, and prepared for a dance, for which the deck
was in capital order. Afterwards we went round the
ship, and then at about 4.30 were taken to see the new
dry dock, which is being built under the superintendence
of Mr. Bennett, C.E. For the present the work is
stopped, in obedience to a telegram received a few days
H 2

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loo nii''H AM) LAnnuii in the r.m, far west.

since I'roni Ottawa. Tliis is tlie hcad-cjuarters of tlie
Xortli Pacific Naval Station, and vvc went ronnd the dock-
yard where tlio stores are kept. Admiral I^yons is at i)ri'-
sent in command oL' this station. We nnl'ortunati'ly
missed making iiis ac([naintance, as lie was away lor a
cruise in the MhI'iik', which vessel we suhseqnently saw
two or three times. \ re<;Tette(l still more havin«»* missed
him, as it al'terwards transj)ired that Mrs. I^yons was the
dani>-hter of an old friend of my wife's family, who was
also an acquaintance of my own.

Esquinialt is a Icjvely spot, and, if railway communica-
tion is estahlished, it will probahly some day become a
place of greater importance, as an excellent harbour could
be formed there. We had a ■ jry pretty drive back by the
(lorge ; the roads in the vicinity of Victoria are excellent,
and there are charming drives and rides in every direction
among the woods and forests, which come close up to
the town. Capital boating can also be had along the
little inlets of the sea, and the whole place is said to
abound with fish. Mount Baker (10,700 feet) is the
great feature in the scenery, and the rugged mountains of
Washington Territory bound the horizon to the south.
Forests seem to extend in every direction in the vicinity
of Victoria ; in fact, the whole of Vancouver's Island is
covered with forest, excepting where it has been cleared
in small patches for farming purposes.

Mr. Jones took us to his house for dinner. We

17' Tllh' COAST TO VICTORIA.

lol

». r

found tliat the Cliiiiimian \vlii» waited at ta))le was also
i'uok ; lio cooked and served our diniu'rat the same time,
and that without any help. Tpon iiujuiry we were told
that tills man "runs" the whole ol" the lower |).ui ol
the house, besides doinu^ all the family's washin}^' ! II is
wa<;'es are £75 per annum. I eaught his eye after he
had placed a dish of curry and rice on tin.' table, with
the manufacture of which he seemed nmch pleased,
])rol)ably on account of his own partiality for rice. The
Lieutenant-Governor had told us he had to o^ive his
" Chinaman " cook £100 a year, and an underling to help
in the kitchen. The general opinion here is that it would
be impossible to get on without Chinese servants, and
that, if left alone to do their work, they are thoroughly
trustworthy. If this is the case, I think we had better
import some to England.

On Thursday the Lieutenant-Governor arrived at
10.30, in order to take us for a drive to Saanicli (distant
about fourteen miles), and show us something of the
country. It is all densely wooded, with patches cleared
here and there for farming purposes, but the crops were
very backward, and I should not think there is much
to be done in the fjirming line about here. We had
luncheon at the inn, kept by a man of the name of Hen-
derson, having first walked down to see a branch of the
inlet, which we duly admired, for it was a very pretty
spot, with magnificent ferns and arbutus trees growing

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102 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAIt, FAR WEST.

ill i^reiit luxuriance, as indeed they do throughout the
whole of this part • f the country.

AVe returned to Victoria by G p.m., just in time to
keep our dinner engagement at 6.30 with Mr. Justice
Walkem, with whom we spent a very pleasant evening,
JMrs. AValkem doing the honours. She is a native of Vic-
toria, and has never been out of British Columbia.
^Tr. Walkem gave us introductions to Mr. Hughes
(the Government agent at New Westminster), also to
Mr. Rhodes and Mr. Onderdonk (Railway Contractor),
both of Yale. The Lieutenant-Governor had previously
furnished us with introductions to Mr. Onderdonk, and
Mr. Harvey of the Hudson's Bay Company, at Yale ; and
a letter besides to his brother, Mr. W. Cornwall, at
Ashcroft, 100 miles farther on.

I It

CHAPTER VI.

THIlOUCill THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.

Sun Ju;in do Fiica — Kiipcr Pass— Stniits of Georgia — An Iron Isliind— 'Die
Cascade ]Mountfiins — Fraser River — How Salnion are Tinned — New West-
minster — Port Moody— The Price of Land at Port IMoody — The Indians
and tlieir Dead — Hope — Emory — Yale — Douht, Discussion, and Decision
—Hell's Gate— Boston Bars— Gold-dust— IJack at Yale — A Trick>
Engine-driver — Hotels in British Columbia — Agriculture and Lalxnir in
British Columbia — An Uncomfortable \Valk through Fairy-land- -In an
Indian Canoe to English Hay — A Uniciue Jvect'i)tion — An l^nceremoniou<
Native — Coal Harbour — An Exciting Drive— Philij) suddenly becomes
Sober — His History — Culumbian Veracity — Hack at Victoria.

Friday, June 2:2nd, we were up at 5 a.m., and left
Victoria at 7 a.m. by the steamer Enterprise on an
expedition to New AVestminster, which is distant about
seventy-five miles, situated on the mainland of Britisli
Columbia. The scenery was quite fascinating the whole
way ; we first steamed along the Sound, and then made
our way through a quantity of beautiful islands, leaving
Vancouver's Island on our left. We took a particular
fancy to Saanich. The steamer for Nanaimo, which was
in front of us, turned round this headland, and went to
Nanaimo direct ; while we kept to the right, passing the
island of San Juan de Fuca, and steaming through quite
a narrow arm of the sea called Kuper Pass, and so out
into the Sti'aits of Georgia, and then over to New
Westminster.

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1<>4 LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAB, FAli, WEST.

The sconoiy was perfect up to Kuper Pass, and it

made us all the more sorry that we had missed the

Hudson's Bay boat (the Offer), which would have taken

us up north, visiting all the Company's stations, and

tluis seeing all the lovely inlets of this coast. I fear

we shall have now to give up all idea of this trip,

but it has been a great disappointment to us. We met

the Archdeacon of New Westminster on board the

I'jiifcrprise ; also Mr. Edgar Crow Baker, M.P. for

A'ictoria. The latter had heard through a relation

living in England of our proposed visit to British

Columbia. He was on his way to New Westminster

to attend a masonic meeting.

The Straits of Georgia were very calm, the water
half blue and half muddy — this is caused by the outlet
of the Eraser River, and the division of the colours
is very marked. We saw the Island of Texada in the
distance, which is said to be composed of almost solid
iron ; and also noticed the 49° parallel cut through the
hr-trees to indicate the boundary line between the
Dominion (or British Columbia) and the United States.
We had a splendid view of the Cascade Mountains in front
of us while crossing the Sound (which is about eleven
miles wide) ; and afterwards entered the Eraser Eiver,
which at its mouth is uninteresting, and apparently
rather shallow, with low swampy banks. However, the
scenery soon began to improve. In the distance Ave

THROUGn THE CASCADE MOUNTAIXS.

105

noticed tlie entrance to BiuTard's Inlet, but about this
I shall have more to say hereafter.

We passed some salmon-canneries, of which there are
several below New Westminster, though none above
that point. We went to inspect one of these establish-
ments : a great deal of the work is done by Indians,
who are good workmen, but dirty-looking fellows. I
watched a line of them filling cans with fish ; they
fit in the large pieces first, and then squeeze in the
remainder with their fingers, so as to fill up the cans
to the top. The works comprise the manufacture of the
tin cans as well as canning the fish.

Before arriving at New Westminster the scenery
improved very much, the banks being clothed with
trees down to the water's edge, but the water itself
was muddy ; the river here is from a quarter to half
a mile wide. The site chosen for New Westminster
seems an admirable one, but the town is as yet only
a quarter built, and the trees behind it have been
damaged to such an extent by forest fires that nothing
is to be seen but bare poles. Douglas firs, hemlock
spruce, and T/if/ja gigaviea, grow here to a very large
size. On landing we went to the Colonial Hotel, where
we had very bad rooms and a worse dinner. I asked a
man where Mr. Hughes (the Government agent) lived, to
whom we had a letter of introduction from Mr. Justice
Walkem, and, curiously enough, he proved to be the

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106

LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAU, FAR WEST.

man himself. We went to a fish shop, and there saw
some beautiful salmon wei<^hint^ about thirty pounds ;
the price was only 2^d. per lb., and of course, as it is
so plentiful here, we had salmon at every meal. They
are caught below the town, sometimes to the number
of 1,500 at a catch.

We started the next morning at 8.30, in a buggy
and pair, for Port Moody on Burrard's Inlet, where
it is supposed that the terminus of the Canadian Pacific
Railway will eventually be made. It is distant about
six miles from New Westminster, the road being
through the forest ; the place derives its name from an
Englisliman, a Colonel Moody, who came here in ISGO
to survey for a line of railway ; he bought a great
quantity of land in the neighbourhood, and in con-
sequence has very possibly realised a large fortune, for
land here has very much increased in value. We were
deposited by the side of the inlet, and took a boat
to the new wharf now being constructed by the
Dominion Government, for this part of the road is
being built by that body. Two English ships were
unloading steel rails ; they had come direct from Europe
via Cape Horn, and had taken just five months to
perform the voyage.. The admiral's ship, the 3[atine,
was also in the harbour.

Port Moody consists of only about half-a-dozen
wooden houses ; it is beautifully situated at the head

! 'W

Tnnouan the cascade mountains.

107

of Burrard's Inlet (about seventeen miles from the
mouth), and is completely land-locked and surrounded by
thick forest, the best trees being Douglas fir and
Hemlock spruce. I walked along the fallen trunk of
one of the latter, and judged it to be 180 feet long with
the head off, so I think it must have been at least 200
feet high when standing. The railway is formed, but
the steel track is not yet laid. We spent a considerable
time in rowing about Burrard's Inlet, and went on both
sides of the bay ; the surrounding hills are completely
covered with trees, the forest coming down to the
water's edge in every direction. The water is almos^t
always perfectly calm ; its average depth is ninety feet,
and it is a considerable depth close up to the shore, for
vessels of twenty-six feet draught can come up to the
new wharf. At the farther end of the bay to the right,
several wooden houses are in course of erection, the
majority of which are saloons. A house is being built
at the extreme end of the bay by a man named Murray,
who was originally one of Colonel Moody's sappers.
He and his fellow-workmen were each given 100 acres
of land while the surs^ey was going on ; most of the
men have since sold, but Murray kept his, and it is now
valuable property, and selling at the rate of £200 per acre.
Of course the approaching completion of the Cana-
dian Pacific Eailway is raising the hope of all the land-
owners ; and they show that they appreciate their

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108 LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

position, for from 500 to 000 dollars is actually beini;
asked for wharfage-front lots, while all the others are
])riced at equally exorbitant rates. It will be a great
disappointment if the site of the terminus is changed to
English JJay (nearer Georgia Straits), or elsewhere, as
they say may possibly be the case ; one reason for the
change being that for a short time last winter (1882-3)
a portion of Burrard's Inlet was frozen over.

At the extreme end of the inlet is a large space left
dry at low tide. This will become the jn'operty of the
Syndicate ; and, if they build a sea-wall and fill up this
space, it will eventually become very valuable, and ma}'
probably be the site of the future city, provided the
terminus of the Canadian Pacific Eailway is really fixed
here. After spending several hours at Burrard's Inlet,
we drove back to New Westminster along the road by
which we had come ; dined at Delmonico's instead of
at the hotel, and slept on board the JV. P. Mthet, a river
steamer by which we were going up the Fraser to Yale,
100 miles away. Before leaving New Westminster, we
called upon Mr. Edwards, a land-surveyor, to ask him
the price of some of the town lots of Port Moody, which
w^e thought extremely high. The day throughout had
been nice and cool, much the same temperature as we
have enjoyed ever since our arrival in British Columbia ;
and we are told that the summer weather is always cool
like this, and the winter never very cold.

THROUGH THE CASCADE MOUXTAINS.

109

Our steamer was a flat-bottomed one, and, instead of
the usual paddle-wheels or screw, had one immense
paddle-wheel at stern, called a stern-wheeler. She was
a comfortable boat, and very fast — indeed she has tlu?
reputation of being the fastest steamer (ni the river. On
coming on deck in the morning, we found we had
travelled about forty miles in the night, and were in the
midst of beautiful mountain scenery, rising on each
side of the river. The forest came down to the water's
edge, and many of the mountains were partly covered
with snow. On our left, in ascending the river, we saw
signs of the construction of the Canadian Pacific Hall-
way. We passed several small Indian settlements ; and
in one instance a church (about sixteen feet long by
twelve feet), with a cemetery not far off. I am told (and
I personally saw an instance) that those of the British
Columbian Indians who are not Christians, do not bury
their dead underground in the ordinary way, but place
the bodies on small platforms amongst the branches of
out-of-the-way trees, a roof of bark covering the whole ;
while the usual custom in each case is to hang up the
weapons of war, and to place alongside of the body the
tobacco pipe and pouch and snow-shoes, so as to make
the departed spirit comfortable on the way to the happy
hunting-grounds. The Indian men are capital workmen,
very willing and active. Their hair is always black, and
worn long. The squaws appear in considerable numbers

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tm LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAU, FAR WEST.

in their settlements, and look of a very inferior race.
They are of a (hirk-hrown colour.

The scenery gradually improved, and became really
very beautiful, so that I may safely say this is the most
beautiful river of its size (and it is very wide) that I have
ever seen. The mountain spurs on each side are from one
and a ludf to two miles apart, thus leaving a quantity of
Hat land, which looks good soil, only it is thickly covered
with trees, those on the river-banks being mostly large
specimens, with smaller trees and alders behind. The
nearer hills are very steep, and, 1 should think, difficult to
climb. The higher and more rocky mountains rise far-
ther back, and their shapes are splendid. Most of them
have snow in patches, but few are really snow-capped as in
Switzerland. The mountain timber is generally pine,
and not of large size. Great ravages have been made
ev^ery where by fire, and the effect is much spoilt by the
bare dead poles to be seen in every direction. We
noticed a good many specimens of 'JViifja gigantea both
to-day and yesterday. The difference between this tree
here and in the Yosemite Valley (there called the Lihro
cedro decurrens) is remarkable. Its bark here is
whitish ; and, when old, the foliage becomes ragged ;
whereas in the Yosemite the bark is reddish, and even
in old age the tree retains a good foliage, and is well
branched. Trees do not grow well on the mountains
here. The latter indeed are rather bare of vegetation ;

M I

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THROUGH THE CASCADE MOUNTATXS.

l)ut the scenery of the Fr;iser Kiver as far as Vale is
certainly extremely beautiful. Tiie river is very swift, but
muddy, though I believe that later in the year it is
ck^arer.

The town of Hope, about seventeen miles below Yale,
was, perhaps, the prettiest part of all. We stopped at
Emory, another exceedingly pretty spot, about four
miles from Yale. This was the farthest point to which
the Canadian Government originally intended to carry
the railway, justifying this course on the score that they
had fulfilled their bargain by bringing it to water
navigable by ships ; but naturally this did not satisfy
the British Columbians, and they insisted on its being
carried farther.

We reached Yale about four o'clock, and put up at
the Cascade Hotel, which was rather a miserable sort
of a place. We called upon Mr. Onderdonk (an
American), the contractor for the section of railway
between Burrard's Inlet and Kamloops Lake (2 CO or
270 miles), and presented our letters of introduction. He
was very courteous, and placed an engine and car at our
disposal to take us to see the completed railway works,
the track being laid for thirty-two miles from Yale to
just above Boston Bars. The admiral and his wife
were staying with Mr. Onderdonk, and he apologised
for not being able to make room for us in his house,
which is a very pretty one, but quite small.

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118 LIFE AXn LAJinim in the FATi, FAR WEST.

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We called upon Mr. Harvey, of the Hudson's Bay
Company, to whom we ])resented a letter from the Lieu-
tenant-dovernor ; then upon a friend of Mr, Walkem's;
and lastly upon the General Superintendent of the Itail-
way, with a note from Mr. Onderdonk about the enj.^ine.
This f^entleman was not inelined to be over-polite,
possibly because he did not like turiiin<i^ out the euiJ-ine
at 8 a.m. ; however, we arranj^ed this little matter
satisfactorily in the end.

Fmdinu;' that there was an Eni'-lish church we
attended service there at 7 j^.m. ; it was built of wood,
and a lady, who I suppose was the wife of the clergy-
man, played tlie harmonium. Mitchell subsequently
discovered that the clergyman was a Mr. Horloch, a
Wiltshire man, and a friend of a brother-in-law of ours,
so he went to call on him. AVe went to Mr. Harvey's
house after church (he being a friend of the Lieutenant-
Governor's), but only stayed about an hour, having to
be up the next mornuig by 2 a.m. so as to be ready for
our special train at 3 a.m., up the completed portion of
the railway to seven miles beyond Boston Bars, which
would be thirty-two miles from Yale. We had a great
discussion as to whether or not we should go on to
the Corn walls' place, Ashcroft, 104 miles by stage from
Yale ; but after talking the matter well over, we agreed
that it was best to give it up, for it seemed hardly
worth while to do 200 miles staging for only two days

Tunouan rui: cascade MorxTArxs.

11:5

lit Aslicroft, iuid yet not to sec t\w best part of tlic
country on b('3'on<l it, vi/., Kamltxjps and Sliuswaj) Lake
and district; for in onb-r to a('c'onij)lish tlio latter we
sliould liave bocn ol)li<4'('d to i^ivc up otlicr tbinj^'s
nearer Victoria wliicb we wisbed to see.

We were up at '2 a.m., and after a liasty breakfast
of dry bread and cold water, went out on tbe railway
track bebind tbe botel to wait for our en^'ine, cVc. ; as
soon as it arrived we junijK'd into tbe ba^-^-ay'e-car
sent for our accommodation, and started oiV. IMie line
runs alono- tbe left bank of tbe Fraser river (ascendini,'
tbe stream), and is sometimes unpleasantly near it ; a
considerable portion of tbe track is cut out of tbe rock,
and in many places tbere are beii])s of overbani^inn-
da/jri'S wbicb ()U<^'bt to be removed. Tbe curves are
ratber sbarp, and tbere are a o-n>at many wooden
bridges and a succession of sbort tuimels, fourteen of
tbe latter in as many miles. Tbe first part of tbe
scenery resembles tbat of tlie Fraser river below Yale,
but after ten or twelve miles it becomes less varied ;
tbe mountains appear all of mucb tbe same beigbt, and
tbe trees are of smaller "'rowtb tban wbat we bad seen
previously. Tbe river itself narrows and rusbes past
at a tremendous pace, particularly at a place called
"Hell's Gate," wbere it contracts to quite a narrow
cliannel, tw^o cliffs projecting on eitber side, opening
to allow of tbe passage of tbe water.

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lU TJFE ANT) LAIJOUn IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

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Wlicn we jirrivcd ((pjxtsitc IJoston H:irs, jin ('n«^inec'r
who was with us on the tniin, jiiinpt'd oil' and crossed
the river in a ferry. Tlie old wa^'^oii road l'ri>in Yah' to
Cariboo (500 or (JOO mih's fartlieron) foHows the river on
th(» opposite side ol' the bank ; in some phiees it is located
lii^h up onthe side of tlie rock and carried ah)n<^ on wooden
trestles. It was the work of (iovernor Sir dames Douglas,
in 1800, and seemed a very well-made, ^ood road, but it
has to pass some awkward bits occasionally. '^Phere are
terrible stories of what the miners, in their search for
t^old, had to go through in reaching Cariboo before tliis
road was made; and still more, on the return journey,
when bringing their treasure down with them. Cariboo
in those days was a lawless place, and the prices of
provisions and other necessaries of life were more than
exorbitant.

During the gold mania from 1859 to 1803, 40,000
])eople were seeking gold in the bed of the K,.jr in this
part, finding it among the sand left dry when the river
was low ; even now people make a considerable income
by washing. The Lieutenant-Governor told me that
the Indians in his neighbourhood, when they wanted
money, simply went to the river, and washed till
they found sufficient gold to support them. We went
to the end of the completed track, and then our engine
reversed and pushed the car before it, and in this
way we returned to Yale, arriving there about 7 a.m.

Tiinoi'nn Tin: cascade mountaixs.

iir.

'PIh' stcaiiKT to Xcw Westminster had already starteil,
but as we had nothing' else to do at Yale, we aifreed
to catch her up at Kinory, a few miles down the river.
Our en<,'ine-(lriver had to ^'et his breakfast, so we
did the same, and wlwn he had fhiished we followed
him back to the entwine. Directly he was on it he
started ofT, thouL,'h he knevv we were close by ; so we
had to run for it to ^et "aboard," and we felt (juite sure
that his intention had been to have left us behind if
lie could, for our trip under ^[r. Onderdonk's orders
was completed on our return to Yale, and after that
he was ^'oin<:f on his rej^ular duty, which took him ])ast
Kniory, where we wanted to n^o. Hovvever, we mana<,^e(l
to <^et a])()ard, and cau^^ht the New Westn.inster boat
(the ir. Ire I nil) at Hmory.

The return journey was much the same as our
journey up to Y'ale had been, and we a^ain admired
that pretty place, Hope. At Somerville J^ay we came
upon a very lar<^e encam|)ment of Chinese labourers
engaged on the railway works: the scene was a most
picturesque one. All along the river camps of these.'
men are constantly to be seen, and the works appear to
be pushed on with great spirit. This section of the
line is being made by the Government under contract
with Mr. Onderdonk. We made the acquaintance of
Mr. Justice Crease on board ; also of Mr. Marcus
Smith, who is Chief Engineer under the Government

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IIG LIFE AXD LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAB WEST.

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l"<»r tlie CiiiKidian Pacific llailwuv. There was a farmer
oil tlie steamer, living on tlie Fraser Kiver at a place
called Cliilliwack, who was anxious to persuade us to
stop with him for a day or two in order to see his farm,
and those of some of his neii^hbours ; but we had to
al)andon the idea, as no steamer passed again for two
days.

Mr. Marcus Smith pointed out a place called Ma])le
llidge, where the railway branches off fi-om the Fraser
to cross the Pitt lliver, and thence to Burrard's Tnlet ;
he told us that a town named Port Hamond would
spring up here, as this would probably be an important
junction whenever a branch line was made south from
here to the American Territory, crossing the Fniser
l)y means of a bridge. We arrived jit New Westminster a
little late, rather after 10 p.m., so we decided to sleep
on board, instead of going back to the bad hotel we
had stayed at when here before. I think the British
Columbians would do well to take a few hints from
their neighbours the Americans as to the manner of
running their hotels ; for, with the exception of the
Driard Hotel at Victoria, I have not seen a good one
!;■( the whole country.

We had enjoyed our run up and down the Fraser
very much indeed. The trip by special train from Yale
to beyond Boston Bars and back was also well worth
doing ; and I am almost sorry that .we did not go on

Til ROUGH THE CASCADE 2[0UXTAIXS.

117

to Asherot't (the Lieuteuaut-dovernor's place), l)ut it
liardly seemed worth while t<j drive 20S miles for the
sake of two days there, especially as we lieai'd that
the route after leaviiij^ IJoston liars was uninterestin;;",
and tlie country round Ashcroft very dry and dusty at
this time of the year. The climate tliL're is said to he
tpiite different to that in the part of British Columhia
which we have seen ; it is extrenuly cold in winter, and
but little rainfalls durint^ the summer; sii,^e-bush and
bunch-g-rass abound tiiere, and the latter when eaten
down by cattle does not ^row a<>'ain. Beyond Ash-
croft a new country opens up at Ivamloops Lake, and
beyond ag'ain at the Shuswap Lake and district, which
is said to be j^ood for farming'; but the extremes of heat
and cold to be met with beyond the Cascade llangv
would, I think, prove a drawback.

To the west of the Cascade ^Mountains the climate
is always mild and good, but there is a g-reat deal of
rain in winter. Vancouver's Island is said to possess a
better and drier climate than the mainland; and I think
that the part of British Columbia I have seen beats in
this respect anything I have ever heard of. From what
I have observed of the country up to the present, '
consider, however, that farmers could do better ''urther
east. The farms which I have seen are all small, and
badly worked, and are only in patches here and there ;
for there is so much "lumber" {i.e., wood and timber)

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118 LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAli, FAR WEST.

Jil)out, that it is impossible to get one of any size, cind if
a ma.i were to set abont making one, lie would spend
his lifetime in cutting down the timber. Wages are
also very higli. They are said to be double here to
what they are in Eastern Canada.

Labourers get H to 2 Dollars - G /- to 8/- per day.

:^Llsous „ 4 to .'i „ r. 1(!/- to 20;

(Carpenters „ 3 „ — 12/-

Caideuers „ 3 „ - 12/-

= 12/-

Painters ,, 3

>»

^laid-servants' wages are about £70 a year, till
married. A driver we had one day t'kl us he was
receiving £10 per montli and :dl found; and a timber
man we met later on, said he had to give a good axeman
IGs. per day, and board him as well. All the necessaries
of life are excessivelv dear; no coin less than a five-
penny-bit is taken or given in change: Some time ago
the Canadian Government tried to reduce the ^mall
change to less than this sum ; but the townspeople of
Victoria expostulated ; and, on finding that no notice
was taken of the complaint, they collected all the
coins of less value than a piece of ten cents (viz., 5d.),
packed them up in sacks, and sent them back to
Canada, with the settlers' compliments. Most of the
people have formerly been miners, and made money at
the diggings (Cariboo, &c.), and lost it afterwards. I
think this would be a good country for a labourer or

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THROUGH THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.

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artisan to come out to, but not for a fanner with small
means. There are openings for a man with capital tn
take up stock-farming ; but my opinion is that better
could be done elsewhere.

On getting up about G a.m. the next day, we found
that our steamer had shifted from the landing-stage to a
timber-yard. It was raining a little, but we mana^^-ed
to get to Delmonico's for breakfast, and afterwards set
off' for a drive to Hastings (on Burrard's Inlet), and
thence to Granville, the latter being thirteen-and-a-half
miles from New Westminster. We drove the whole
way right through dense forest, and passed s<^me mag-
niticent timber, I. 50 to 250 feet high: Douglas fir,
Hemlock spruce, T/u/ja //u/a/ifca, &c. AVe travelled
over what is called a "corduroy" road, made of logs of
wood placed crossw^ays, with a little sand on the top.
It does not make at all a bad road, though it is rather
bumpy. We reached Hastings only in time to see the
ferry steamer already started, and about 300 yards
away, going across to Moody ville; so we drove on t(»
Granville on Coal Harbour, and put up there. Our
object in making this expedition was to see English Bay
(five or six miles off), which is one of the places spoken
of as the possible railway terminus in case Port Mood\'
should be finall}'- abandoned for that purpose. A man
with a small steamer offered to take us there for ten
dollars ; but this we declined, ard settled to walk

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1:20 /./Fi? .LVD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

instead, tlioug-li wo had b:'LMi warned that the
trail was a bad one. The hindlord from the hotel
came to start us on our way, and after takinc:^ us
al)()ut a mile, left us with directions as to our route.
We soon ])hin<»vd into tlie thickest of forests,
following- an Indian trail, which we could hardly
see or find. There had b^en some rain durin<>; the
morning, and tlie result was that, bi'tween the drip
from the trees and the wet fern and underwood, we had
a regular drenching ; although I guarded against it as
much as possible by making an apron of my macintosh,
and keeping my umbrella up whenever I could, which
was not very often. In this way we trudged along
through wonderfully dense forest for about three miles.
It is impossible for me to describe how dense and
beautiful it was in its entirely natural state ; moss hung
I'rom many of the trees ; indeed, numbers of these and of
old stumps were quite covered with ferns, hanging
mosses, and creepers. In fact, mosses and ferns, and
many ]ilauts of which I did not know the names, grew in
every direction. I never before saw such a charminii
forest-scene ; and I must also acknowledge, that until
this trip I never before saw real trees — I mean trees of
such immense growth as those we have been admiring
within the last two months, and during this walk — for
the timber here was magnificent, and the foliage most
luxuriant, the colour of the leaves being beautiful in

'•■*.*'■"■>■«.._-."

THROUGH THE CASCADE MOUNTAIXS.

Ill

the extreme. But I never could have inia<nned anv-
thing to he compared to tlie hjinging mosses, from
trees both dead and ali\e : it was quite like fairy-land.
Vie had great ditticulty in finding the path, and almost
as much in forcing our way through the mass ot foliage,
ike. The fern-k'aves at times were some feet above our
heads, and we were wet through to the skin, from the
waist downwards, when we arrived at the end of the
trail. Here we found a sm;dl Indian village, and
having made arrangements with an Indian (who was
digging potatoes in his garden, assisted by his squaw),
to take us in a canoe to English Bay, we were soon oH',
with the Indian at the stern, managing his craft by
means of a single paddle, with which he both pr*)pell('d
and steered it. There was very little room to sit in the
canoe, still less to move ; so we remained very (piiet, and
were only able to strike a match under great difficulties.
Except for the want of space, we had a very pleasant
row (or paddle), until, on reaching a certain point, our
Indian ran his canoe ashore, when we got out and
walked the remainder of the distance, about a mile and
a half, to English Bay. The sea washes right up to the
roots of the trees, and ferns grow close down to the
water line. We did not notice manv arbutus trees in
this district. During our walk through the forest we had
stopped to measure one tree, a 77/ ///a gigantea, which,
six feet from the ground was as much as thirty feet in

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122 LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

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circumfeiviice. This was only a specimen of many
others we saw. It is out of this wood (which the
Indians call cedar) that they make their canoes, form-
ing them from a single trunk, and either burning or
hewing them out of the solid block. As far as our
experience goes, these canoes appear to be very crank
and easily upset, but the Indians manage them very
well. Of course our Indian could not speak a word of
English, so we were glad to get some information from
two white men we met on the sands, as to tlie where-
abouts of English Bay. On our arrival there we came
across the sole resident, a white man, who said he occu-
pied himself with gardening. The place was not quite
what we had expected to find it, for it lies much
exposed to winds, and, in order to form a good harbour,
a breakwater would have to be built. Besides, though
the anchorage further out is excellent, the deep water
does not run near enough to the sliore.

We were received on reaching English Bay by a large
dog and an odd-looking goose, which both ran to meet
us. We returned to our canoe, and instead of letting
the Indian stop at his " reserve," we made him paddle
us on to the bridge at the end of " False Creek," and
thus avoided returning through the forest. Upon our
leahig the canoe I gave the Indian a cigar, and
offered him a light from my own. He immediately
seized the latter, and was going to transfer it bodily

THRoran the cascade mount aixs.

l'2'.i

to his own moutli. But T just succeodctl in rescuin*^
it in time, for which 1 was rewarded witli a hideous
j^rin from ear to ear. From here we walked on to
Granville, where we ordered some dinner. AVhilst
it was being prepared, we liired a boat, and rowed
across to the Point, about a mile distant, across Coal
Harbour, in order to see the "First Narrows" of the
inlet, and to catcli a glimpse of Moodyville in the
distance. The conclusion to which Clive and I came,
was that, on the whole. Coal Harbour was the best place
for the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Pailroad,
except for the expense of bringing the line on about
fifteen miles from Port Moody. Wo thought Poi*t
Moody stood next best, were it not for the ice which
occasionally makes its appearance there during a severe
winter, as was the case last season. Tlie position of
Moodyville, separated as it is by the north arm of
Ihirrard's Inlet from the present railway route, woidd be
a great drawback to constituting it the terminus and
harbour. Our evening's row was a charming one. It
was just like being on an Italian lake. The colour of
the watev was very nearly, though not quite, as blue ;
and everything looked perfectly calm and still. There was
not a ripple on the water, and the mountains uU round
were clothed with forest from top to bottom. It was a
grand sight to look fifteen mile& right down the inlet,
and one felt what an important place this will probabl}'

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121. LIFE AND LABOUIt JN THE FAIl, FAR WEST.

some day become, slioiild the railway terminus be
located here.

The scene was a h)vely one, and not easily to be
fori^otten ; but it was i>-etting- bite, so we rehictantly
returned to tlie inn, where we ^'ot a bad dinner, and
liavnii^ changed our wet ck^thes, interviewed our driver,
wlio, in waiting so h)ng, had accidentally taken too much
drink on board. After consulting as to what was to be
done, we settled to start with him and take our chance ;
so, accordingly, we set off, amidst a large concourse of
s])ectat(n-s, who seemed to know what was up. The
road was a narrow one, with a deep ditch on each side.
It was my turn to take the box-seat, so I had the
})Ieasure of sitting next our friend, whose driving was at
first rather wild. The horses made two bolts to turn in
at the inn at Hastings as we passed, but we got by all
right.

We went down the hills at a tremendous pace ; but,
drunk or sober, the man was an excellent whip. All of
a sudden he lit a cigar, and became sober ; and then pro-
ceeded to tell ns his history. It seemed that he had at
one time driven a team of six horses in a stage in Cali-
fornia, and was tired now of driving only two. His
present master gave him£lGa month and his board;
and he was " boss in the stable;" but he wanted a
biu'irer team, and said he should then get double his
present pay. Formerly he had been a mmer, and had

TnEOUGII THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS.

125

made a considoniljle fortune, but ])uttin(^ it into sonio
speculation, had lost every farthing*. His parents lived
in Ontario, and he did not mean to go back there until
he was rich again. He had partially lost his hearing
from lying out in the woods when he was with his
horses in California. This troubled him a good deal,
and he said he would give all he " could earn, or win,"
to recovxT it. He really was not such a bad fellow
after all, and drove beautifully, though he did take us
down the hills at a tremendous rate; sometimes pulling
up with a jerk when half-way down, to show what he
could do if he had a mind to it.

We arrived safely at Kew AVestminster, and parted
very good friends with the man (who was quite sober by
that time), and then took up our quarters on board the
I^vfcrprisc, by which vessel we were to sail to Victoria
the following morning. I ought to say that in the
early part of the day the landlord of the inn at Gran-
ville, in order to induce us to stay the night, had
declared that there was a steamer from there to Victoria
the next morning ; but we subsequently discovered that
she did not sail for two days. I mention this as a
sample of the kind of information given one. Ever
since we have been in British Columbia we have had the
greatest difficulty in obtaining any accurate or reliable
information on any subject, partly, no doubt, because
the people sometimes really do not themselves know.

12« LTFE AND LARnUR IN THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

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But I must say I like tlio Hritisli Columbians (they
do not call themselves Canadians), for they are always
exceeding-ly civil and oblii-'inL^. In the eveninj^ we met
Mr. Marcus Smith, the enj,nneer, who is now living at
New Westminster, and had a lon^,'' talk with him about
various matters. Thus ended a very pleasant day and
a charming excursion.

Our vessel sailed at 7 a.m. the next day (June
:27th), following the same route back to Vict(jria by
which we had come. We luid another look at the
salmon-canning process in passing by ; and saw a few
large tish. When nearing I'luinper Pass — which divides
Galiano Island from Main Island — we saw the Ad-
miral's ship, the Mutlnc, making her way to Esquimalt
Hjirbour. She was a fine vessel, and looked very stately.
On our route we passed Portland, Coal, Stewart, and
Piers Islands, and many others. All this part of the
coast is excessively picturesque, more like a large lake
than anything else ; and we were told that ducks and
geese abound here in November. We arrived at Vic-
toria at 2.30 p.m., and spent the rest of the day at the
club, in paying calls, and seeing various f'iends, &c.
On going back to the hotel for the night we ordered
a carriage and pair to be in readiness the next day to
take us to Saanicli.

1 ;,

CHAPTER VIT.

THK PROSPECTS OF lUUTlSII COLUMBIA.

Juhn Cliinamun'H HxiicditiDiis Dish -Tiiulifr and Timber- till lor« — Axi> or Saw r
— Iiidiim Industry — HiintinLf on ii Limited f>viilv -'Vlui Ar(/unientuiii n'l
Hoiiiinem — C'owichun — Xaniiimo -Dipartiirc May — Tiin\ing i\w Corner —
Tlio Host Climate in the World— A I'lca.sant and I'roHiicrniis Si'ttli'inent —
Coal Lsland- Reciprocal Kejoicinfi;.s — Matrimony: iSiipply and Dijmand--
Yancouver Island — Hints to Settlers -Atjriciiltiiral Operations — Land
Prospecttinf? — A Trui; Story — A Pic-nic — Cordova IJay — L(injj:t'ord Lake
— Canadians and ihitish Columbians — Khadamanthus Kediviviis-Five !
— A Curious ^Mistake — Farewidls— When to Visit British Columbia — The
Terminus of the Canadian Pacilic Kailwiiy.

AVe were rather kite after all in getting off in the
morning, for we did not leave the hotel until 8.30 a.m.
Our plan was to see Saanich, and then to take a canoe
from the further portion of North Saanich across to
Oowichan on the mainland; but this arrangement was
frustrated by various unforeseen occurrences. Fii^t ot"
all we drove ten miles to " Thomas's ; " he is an old
settler, and was formerly a Hudson's Bay man. He
took us over his lands, where we saw some beautiful
trees, mostly Douglas fir and some Thuja ffit/nntca, all
of immense growth. This occupied some time, and
we afterwards drove on to Henderson's, where we had
luncheon. We wanted to have something to eat " quick "
— cold beef, or anything, in fact; but on going down
into the kitchen, we found the "Chinaman" com-

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128 LIFK AXD I.AIlOrn IX Till: FAlt, FAlt WEST.

iiu'iKMii*,' to make a tart hy way of an cxjM'ditious dish.
AVc expostulated witli Mrs. Henderson, who, however,
s. id "Time was iiotliinLT to tliem Cliinanien," and tliat
the ■ eouhl never u'et out of the routine.

Atlci 1« .ivini,'' Hen(U'rs()n's we drc-ve on in search
of an Indinn reserve and a canoe; hut when we reaelied
one wt' i'ound that all the inhahitants had sj^one out
tishin_<(, so that no one was availal)le, and we in eon-
s('(|uenc'(' did not (juite know wliat to (hs for it was
H'ettin<.f late. Continuing" our drive, wc wore sur])rised ut
passini,'' a nice little ]u)})-yard, and soon afterwards came
to a farndjouse, where a woniiui i^'ave us some informa-
tion ; hut a canoe to-niL'-iit was evidently out of the
question; so we in(juired for lodj^'inys, and were told
of a man of the name of Armstrong, on the East road,
who niij^ht he al)le to accommodate us, and who could
|)ut ns oil' in a hoat to catch the niornin<^" steamer. AVe
found that a sofa-hcd coidd he made up for one of \is,
and that the other two could sleep toj^'ether in a h(d
in the same room with the hrothersArmstrone^ ; hut wo
did not see any great necessity for makint>- an arrany-e-
mont of this sort, so decided instead on returnintr to
Henderson's for the nio-ht, and on takin<^ our chance
of gettint^ a canoo in the morning. Wo walked part
of the way hack to Henderson's, where we procured
rooms ; and, directly afterwards, were fortunate in meet-
ing an Indian, who agreed, for six dollars, to start with

THE rUOSPECTS OF UlUTlSIt COLUMlllA.

\1^

US tlu' rollowin*,' inoniin<,' iit 5 a.m. and take us to
(.'owichau to catch the stcainci tluTe. Tlicre was an
intclli^^cnt man of the name of Sutton at II('n(h'rs«)n's,
wlio was part-owner ol' a saw-mill business at C.'owichan ;
he <^ave us a o-rcjit deal { information, and told us,
amonj,' other thin<^s, that his timher-fallers cost him
£1 a day, i.e., 10s. in cash anci ts. for food, lie said
that the hi<j;;h wa<^es in iJritish Coiumhia brou^'ht every-
thing" (h)wn ; and that all farniing'-la.ids were too hii^di
in ])rice, on account of the ^reat expectations peoj)le had
formed of the benefits to be g'ained in the fnture
tliroug'h the contemplated Island iiailway.

From this man 1 learnt th. > the Douy'las and the
British Columbian fir are one and the amethin*-'; it
is the fhu'st timber they have; trei's about live fi'ct
in diameter are best for the saw-mills, and answer their
purpose better than lar<j^er ones. On making a calcula-
tion 1 found that a Douglas lir of, say 200 feet high,
and five feet diameter, is only worth 2s. before being
felled. What would be the price of such a tree in
England, I wonder ? When a tree is to be cut down
a little platform is fixed round it about ten feet from
the ground, and the woodnuui uses his axe so skilfully,
that the appearance of the face of the stump when
down is exactly as if the tree had been sawn in two.
1 had often noticed this, and wondered that a saw

should be used for falling such large trees ; but now I
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130 LIFE AXD LAIiOUB IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

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found, to my surprise, that an axe is the only tool
employed for this work.

Tlie next day we were up at 4 a.m., as the canoe
taking us to Cowichan was to start at 5 a.m. ; so we
l>reakfasted at 4.30 upon cold eg^s, milk, and bread,
and then looked out for our Indian, who, however, did
not make his appearance. Getting uneasy for fear he
should he off his bargain, we went down to the cove
at 5.30 to look for him. Neither Indian nor canoe
was there ; but while Mitchell was looking at the
view, and when my back was turned, round came the
canoe from behind a rock, so it was lucky that Mitchell
had stayed behind. Instead of bringing a second man
with him, as agreed, the Indian (Bob by name) had
brought his two children, a boy and girl, one to help
him to row (not paddle), and the other to steer. The
canoe was a good- sized one, much larger than the one
we had travelled in the other day going to English
Bay, but the rowing was absurd, for the old Indian did
as little as he could, and the son less — the latter spent
most of his time in yawning, and cotching fleas in
his head. First they tried a little rowing, then
])addling .: when we had crossed the " broad water,"
and got into the shallows, they took to punting ; and
linally, when the wind got up (which old Bob had
evidently been waiting for all the time) we had a sail.
We were much amused when, on one occasion, Clive

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THE PBOSl'ECTS OF BlilTISII COLUMBIA.

161

tried to expostulate with the Indian on the bud pace ;
of course neitlier understood the other's language, but
old Bob turned on Clive and gave him a paddle, saying
something meantime whicli we assumed meant, " Then
help to paddle 3'ourself." He was a lazy old fellow,
and his perf.n-mance annoyed us considerably, but there
was no remedy for it but patience.

After being cramped up m the canoe for more than
four hours we reached the pier-head of Cowichan only
just before the arrival of the steamer from Victoria for
Nanaimo ; but there was no time to have a bathe, to
whicli we had been lookini; forward. Cowichan is a
very pretty place, and one of tlic best farming settle-
ments on the island. We regretted extremely that we
could not remain here longer, but had we done so
we should have been unable to reach Nanaimo, which
we also much wished to see, it being the coal district
of the island. Cowichan has a very " settled " appear-
ance, it stands in a pleasant valley whicli runs down to
the " Salt Water," and it is nicely backed up by
mountains.

We left about eleven o'clock in the steamer W. G.
Hunt, and arrived at Nanaiino about 3.30 p.m. The
scenery was fine, but the timber smaller than what we
had been accustomed to of late. During our cruise to-
day, both in the canoe and the steamer, we saw (juaiiti-
ties of large arbutus trees, thirty to fifty feet high,
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lo2 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

j^rowing right down to the water's edge. On arriving
ut Nunaimo, we took a walk to inspect the town, but
were not mucli struck with it; and then went on with the
steamer to coal at Departure Bay. This is the great
coaling station for the whole of the Pacific Coast, and 1
am told that the coal is of excellent quality. There
was a large vessel from San Francisco taking in coal
while we were there.

We met here a Gloucestershire farmer, who came
from a locality I knew. He was looking out for a
farm, but did not seem to think much of the country
from an agricultural point of view. The weather
(luring the whole day was very line, rather warmer than
usual, but just like a cool sunnner day in England.
Th(} Nanaimo hotels did not appear to be very tempt-
ing places in which to spend a night, so we nuide
arrangements to sleep on board the steamer this evening.
The distant view from Nanaimo is very grand, taking
in a hirge portion of the Cascade range of mountains.
Departure Bay is three miles further north, and is
the farthest point north and west which we shall
reach on this trip. When we start from here in the
morning we shall be turning homewards for the first
time since we left England on the 10th May; so, in
point of fact, our return route commences to-morrow.

Sleeping on board the steamer, we started off very
comfortably for Victoria. The morning was beautiful,

THE rnosrECTs of British Columbia.

1:53

as indeed tliey always are here, so bright and mild.
The air is very pure and fresh, and a gentle breeze
generally s})rings up about 8 a.m., dying away again
about p.m. The British Columbians invariably praise
up their climate, though there are sometimes complaints
about other things ; and I think they are quite right,
for it is as perfect as any climate can be; and every one
we spoke to on the subject always said it was the best
in the world. The lights and shades were beautiful to-
day on the islands and mountains as we steamed
along — much better than yesterday. We stopped at
Maple Bay, where Mr. Smithe, the l*rime Minister, came
on board ; and then at Cowichan, which again struck
us as the pleasantest and most prosperous settlement we
have yet seen in British Columbia. The Indian reserve,
howe'.'^er, occupies the best of the lands, which is rather
a pity, as they are sure never to improve them, jdthougli
they are good workmen when employed in service.
The valley in which Cowichan is situated appears to be
fertile, hills covered with pine-trees rising at the back,
and on each side, beyond these again, high rocky moun-
tains are visible. We were very sorry we could not re-
main here a while to see more of the place.

Continuing our journey, we steamed by Piers Ishmd,
which we were told was for sale, and then past Coal
Island. The latter is almost joined to the maiidand
by a series of little islets, covered with well-grown

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r.U LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

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urbutus trees. It lies just opposite the mill and
Armstrong's, on Saanich road ; it is from 300 to
lOO acres in extent, and is well timbered. We took
a great fancy to this island ; and it really is a lovely
spot, with a beautiful view of Mount I3aker and the
Cascade Mountains in front, and the Olympian range
in Washington Territory to the south, with the salt
water forming a foreground. We made the acquaint-
ance of the Hon. W. Smithe (the Premier), who gave us
a great deal of information on various matters relating
to British Columbia, and we again heard that the
climate was the best in the world, and the land very
good ; but be told us that the grain grown in the
country was only sufficient for the home consumption,
and there was none to spare for exportation.

We reached Victoria at 3 p.m., after a very charming
steam on the calmest of waters, through most delightful
scenery ; and went at once to the Driard Hotel, where
we found that Baillie-Grohman — a friend of ours
whose acquaintance we had formed on board the
Germanic — had also just arrived. He asked us all to
go with him on the 13th to Kootenay, {i new settle-
ment which he is trying to form and reclaim. The
invitation was a v^ry tempting one ; there would be
a fifty-mile ride, a row of tljLp. same distance down a
river, and then of a hundred miles on a lake, camping
out every night. But in the evening I made up my

THE niOSrECTS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

mind tlmt I must decline this invitation, as far as I
myself was concerned, on account of my previous en-
gagement, made before leaving England, to meet the
directors of the Midland of Canada Eailway at Glyndon
on July ISth, and to accompany them to the Nortli-
West Territory. Clive had previously written to J5ailli( -
(jrrohman, suggesting that he should join him at Koote-
nay, in order that he might thus fill up some of his
spare time whilst I was in the North-West. ^litchell
seemed inclined to keep with me ; but I asked both him
and Clive not to consider me, but to do what thev
themselves liked best, at the same time saying that, as
far as I was concerned, I must keep to my engagement
for July 18th. Thus the matter rested for the time, but
eventually it was settled that Mitchell should go with
me to the North- West, while Clive joined Baillie-
Grohman in the Kootenay expedition, it being agreed
that he should rejoin us at Winnipeg, or wherever we
might be, after he returned from Kootenay.

I bought an Indian spoon to-day made by Naas
Kiver Indians (to the north of Fort Simpson, British
Columbia), also a rug formed of cedar-bark from the
Tlufja ()i(jantca, trimmed with otter skin, and made
with the wool of the mountain sheep. This was the
handiwork of Nitanat Indians, Vancouver's Island,
north-west of Victoria. To-morrow is "Dominion Day,"
which accounted for the steamer being pretty full. It

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136 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

will be celohrated this year on Monday, July 2nd, as
the 1st July falls on a Sunday. " Dominion Day" is
the anniversary of British Columbia and other Canadian
J*rovinc('s joining tlie "Dominion of Canada" in 1S71 ;
and is kept in Canada on July 1st, in the same way as the
Americans celebrate Independence Day (July 4th). A
great deal of good feeling is sliown between Americans
and British Columbians on these days of rejoicing,
^lany of the former come over to British Columbia to
celebrate Dominion Day ; and the compliment is re-
turned by the British Columbians crossing to the other
side of the Sound — i.e., into the States — to keep Inde-
pendence IJay. It is a true friendly feeling, mutual and
sincere, and one which I hope may continue.

It appears to me that the future prosperity of Bri-
tish Columbia must be derived from its mineral re-
sources rather than from agriculture. The timber also
is undoubtedly a great source of wealth, but tliis will
naturally diminish in time, although the supply at
present is immense, and in quality and size it is some
of the grandest in the world. Mr. Sutton, of Cowichan,
spoke of a length cut out, eighty feet long, as a " good
stick." Mr- Smithe, who farms at Cowichan, told us of
a Douglas fir in his neighbourhood, measuring thirty-
five feet round and twelve feet in diameter at a height
of ten feet from the ground. On a level with the
ground the trunk was as much as fifty feet round.

THE rBOSFECTS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

137

Planks six or seven foot wide, and oi*j^lity foot l()n<^, aro
froquontly cut from tlio Douglas lir. Tliis will <;ivo
some idoa of the inimonso size of the timber. Some of
the best specimens of the Douglas fir grow near Now
Westminster, but this tree and the Hemlock spruce
abound everywhere.

The climate of British Columbia is so excellent in
every way, that I much regret that the farming lands
are not more extensive, otherwise this would be the
place of all others to which a small British farmer
should emigrate. A labourer, however, or an artisan of
any descrij^tion, could do well here, and, if steady and
active, might put by a large sum of money. Of course
it must be remembered that the long lournev out is
most expensive. It cannot be managed under t3(), even
at emigration prices ; and it would cost an ordinary
traveller £50 to £G0 to reach Victoria (B.C.) direct from
Liverpool. It would be cheaper for an emigrant to go
round in a sailing vessel via Cape Horn, but the journey
would probably take about five months to perform.
Besides this, wages would go down if there was any
great influx of immigration. At present nursery girls are
at a premium, for the ladies of Victoria, although they
employ a Chinaman "to run the house," do not take
one to run the nursery; hence young girls willing to
" take the baby " command a high figure, and soon realise
the value of their services. A woman servant would

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13S LIFE AND LAIiOUli IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

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<»l)t:iiii iiistiint oinployment at u hh^h rate of wa^^es — €()()
or £70 a year, if not more — and would, besides, in all
probability, be able to retire from service and enter into
married life witliin six months, if she wished to do so.
It is for this reason that people tluidc it hardly worth
while to import women-servants, for the exjienses would
be heavy, and the result would probably be matrimony,
and not leng'thened service. At present, owin<( to the
railway reserve (ten miles on each side of the line), all
the lands are ap])arently locked nj), and no Government
lands can be bought on the island. These latter are
said to be full of minerals, but at present no one can
buy; lienee the tide of immigration is In'ought to a
standstill.

On Vancouver's Island I believe the best agricultural
land to be about Saanich, Cowichan, and Comox. The
interior is still all wood, and up to tlie present time has
not been surveyed. On the mainland there are some
farm-lands of good quality on the lower Fraser, though
with rather a heavy rainfall. Higher up the river they are
subject to floods. In the interior, on the other side of
the Cascade Mountains, near Shuswap Lake, there are
lands good for settlement, amounting to about the size of
an English county; but this is very small in extent when
compared with the North- West Territory. Mr. Marcus
Smith (the engineer), who knows the country well, said
that one must go eighty miles beyond Yale, and pass the

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THE ritOSPECTS OF JiRITISJI COLUMBIA.

i:jj>

Cascade Kiingo, before strlkinfjf agrieiiltunil liiiids, iind
that even then they are very scattered. '^Phe hills
become rolling, and bunch-grass grows. The latter is
long grass, cured by the sun and ((uite dry. On farms
with this grass a large range is re(juired, for when once
eaten down it does not grow again till the next season.
Cattle fatten on it amazingly, ])ut shrep grazing on it
ruin it entirely, for they eat it down too close. Many
districts are already spoilt by over-grazing.

Mr. Smithe gave us the following information ai
regards settlers, &c. : — If a man came into the country
with the intenticm of taking up !()() acres at the Govern-
ment price of one dollar (Is.) an acre, he would have
no chance of procuring cleared land, but must take his
100 acres covered with lumber, and clear and fence it.
The latter would co.st him twenty dollars (£ i) per 1,000
rails, which would fence i^OO yards. To enclose fifty
acres would take 120 dollars (£21). Clearing land
from wood — which means willow and alder only — costs
about ten dollars per acre to "chop down," and it may
be remarked in passing that these two trees always
indicate good land. It takes quite 200 dollars (£40)
per acre to clear pine-land ; but, of course, the value
of the timber would make some return for this outlay.
This includes both cutting down and grubbing up.
Land can be bought partially cleared at from £1 to £30
or £40 per acre. Uncleared land (assuming it to be

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110 i//'A' .lAy> LAUUVll JX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

covered with willow or maplo) would cost fifty dollars
(tlO) per acre in brin^ into cultivation. This would
include cuttin^^ and hurning, levellini;', and open drainin*;-
with cedar- wood.

^Ir. Sniithe's mode of open dralninj^' was to take ii
tree and sj)lit it ed«;'ewjiys ; then, having* dug Ji three-
foot drain, to let in one section edgeways with the
narrower part downwjirds. This method, whei adopted,
allows the water to run underneath without hindrance ;
and if good hearty tind)er be selected, it will hist for
years. ^Mr. Smithe also gave me the following iiverage
of cro])s : —

Hay, 2 tons per aero. Value, 25 dols. {£o) \wv ton.
Oats, 50 bush. „ Weight, 40 ll». por bushel.

Barley, 45 „ „ „ GO lb. „

Wheat, 40 „ „ „ 62 lb. to 65 lb.

Hops, exceptional.
Swedes and turnips grow well, sometimes reaching

30 lb. to 40 lb. weight.
Peas and beans do not do well

Labour is very dear — the price for white labour
being 2^ dols. or 10s. per day; and for Indian 2 dols.
or 8s. per day; the latter is dearer than it used to
be. Very few men are kept on any farm througliout
the year ; ^Ir. Smithe told me that on his 300-acre farm
he only employed one man regularly. There is much
drunkenness in the towns, but very little in the country.
By a recent Act of Parliament the number of saloons is

thp: ritosPECTS of buittsh columuia.

to be rt'strictt'd in proportion to i\\v population ; tliere-
foru Victoria, vvhicli has now sixty saloons, will have
to reduce them to only sixteen. I do not think that
British Columbia is makinn" nearly such rapid pro«;-ress
us Washington Territory, which has a very similar
climate ; at any rate many emigrants, having come out
to the former, soon pass over the Sound into the States,

AVe attended church in the moniing in the
cathedral, a wooden structure on a rocky eminence over-
looking the town. The bishop preached ; we thought
him rather severe-looking, but I should fancy that a
man of determined will was recjuired in a new country
like this. Afterwards 1 took the oj)portunity of writing
several letters ; and then we spent the time seeing and
calling on various friends, amcmg others on the Lieuten-
ant-Governor, with whom we stayed to dinner. Subse-
quently we went up on the Flag Tower, where the view
was most beautiful all round us : Mount Baker, Isle St.
Juan (now American territory), and the beautiful Ol^'ni-
pian llan<2e of mountains in Washington Territory; the
straits of JuandeFuca; below us Victoria partly surrounded
by its sjDlendid forests ; and the Cascade mountains in
the distance. It is indeed a most lovely view, and we
saw it to perfection this evening, enhanced by a fine
sunset.

We were up early on the Monday morning, and
started off land prospectuig at 7 a.m. Our last ex-

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pcdition of tliis kind was uLout n wock i\<i;o, wlicTi we
went to Tliouuis's Fann, on tlic West Saani'-li road ;
tjovv \v(» sot olT al(>n<^ tlu' East Saaiiicli road, turninjj;
to till' ri<;ht at tlu* Koyal Oak. The first place we
stoj)])('d at was lot 47, and was called Fern Dale, Lake
District; it beloiij^'ed to a man named Anderson, whom
we called upon, as we wanted to ascertain the where-
abouts of lot 1:21, which wc were anxious to see. lie
volunteered to come and show us, and wo had a rou<^h
walk until we reached the lot ; it is situat<'d on the
"Salt Water" (i.f., sea-shore) on Cordova I3av,
opposite the Isle of San Juan, which lay about
ten miles off, otiier islands bein<^ nearer. Mount
IJaker (at a distance of sixty miles) and the Cascade
Kanj^e on the mainland were clearly visible. The beach
was a ^ood one, sandy, with ])ebbles in places. The lot
itself was very rocky, but there were splendid trees all
round. On in({uirin<^ as to the ownership of the ad-
joining lots, we found that Nos. 24 and 25 belonged to
a man of the name of Eoss, and we walked on some
distance till we reached his log-hut, built in the middle
of a clearing ; but we were unlucky in not finding liim
at home. In coming here we traversed the newl}-
surveyed road, running into Cedar Hill road, and
passed some magnificent timber, mostly Douglas fir.
Judging by the presence of wdllow and alder, we
concluded there was some good land on these lots, and

TJih' riiosi'i:vTs of iiurnsn coli'miua.

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we (li'c'idcd on l)iiyiii^ lot 1:21, and also lots *2[ and
25 if Uoss would sell ; siipposini^ we secured all
three, tlie Sidt-watcr frontaL^n* would be more than a
mile.

While wandcriui,'' on In tlie forest wo noticed, at the
base of a hu<(e iJouj^'las fir, a little wooden cabin made
of a cross-stick on two poles, with stronii; strips of bark
leanin<^ ajjfainst them to form two sides. There was
only just room for a man to crawl undenK^ath ; never-
theless, in this tlie owner had lived, summer and winter,
for twelve years, on his own holdini^ of about a hundred
acres, which he had not attempted to cultivate further
tlum by cuttin<4' down a few of the ma^-nificent forest
trees here and tliero. Not lon<jj a<^'o this man un-
expectedl}' came into a lar«^e property elsewhere.
Search was made for him, and, on beini^ discovered,
he was taken ofl\ new clothes ])rovided for him, was
shaved and had his hair cut, and then was s]ii])ped oil"
by the next mail to his new home and his riches. W'e
saw the ashes of his camp fire, the kettle, and some
old clothes, all still remainin<( just as he had left them.
This story is a fact, and was told us by Anderson.

We spent five or six hours prospectin<^, and were
much pleased with what we saw ; but remembering^
that sve were all this time keepinj^ Anderson from the
Dominion Picnic, we hurried back to our carriage, which
we had left opposite his house. Mrs. Anderson, liow-

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144 LIFE AM) LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

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ever, insisted upon our having some luneheon before we
left ; after whicli v.e drove on to the end of the East
road, as \v^e wanted to see Coal Island. In going" along
we made in(|uiries for a boat, but found that every-
body had gone to the 2)icnic.

On reaching the mill we saw an old settler there
with a canoe ; but he declined to take us, saying that it
leaked. Happily, just then another man appeared, and
olfered to lend us his boat for the expedition if we
would afterwards give him a lift in our carriage back
to Victoria, and this we at once agreed to do. Our new
ac(iu:iintance accompanied us to Coal Island; he proved
to be a Mr. Ward, a Methodist missionary, and had
just rowed over twenU' miles from ^laple ]5ay. We
had a charming trip to Coal Island, and found tliat its
present occupants are Honolulu Indians, who have been
im])()rted with six wivv'^s a-j)iece. Returning to land, we
had a bathe, iind tlu-n set of^' for Victoria, taking the
missionary with us, passing on the way many fnvmers
going home after the Dominion Day Picnic, each buggy
or waggon being crowded with children. The great
delight of the liritish Cohnnbians is to have what they
call a picnic — which they make into a regular holiday,
combined with dancing, &:q,. Our hithei'to quiet driver
did not turn out quite so well on the return journey ;
he tried speaking sharply, and would go to sleep while
driving ; and, finally, on reaching our destination, he

THE PROSPECTS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

asked five dollars more than his due, which of course
he did not get.

We did not arrive at Driard Hotel till 10.45 p.m.,
and immediately ordered supper — whicli is quite contrary
to all rules and regulations in hotels conducted on the
American plan, unless a regular supper is held. All
the same, we succeeded in getting something to eat, and
so ended a long and very pleasant day. The views had
been charming, and the weather, as usual, deliglitful —
not too hot, and with a nice cool breeze blowing.
Anderson said he had travelled a great deal before
finally settling down, but that he had never found an}
climate to equal that of British Columbia; and this
appears to be the general opinion. I have never seen
any country to compare with it in the way of scenery
either, and it is most pleasant to travel in.

Our stay in Victoria had been more prolonged than
we had at first anticipated ; and, hearing that the
Ofier had returned from the north, and was now pre-
paring for another trip, we went to the Hudson's I3ay
Company's offices to make inquiries about her, and to
ascertain her dates of sailing, in case we could arrange
to go north in her ; but we decided in the end that this
would be impossible. We found the vessel in a very
dirty state, but there was a fair three-berth cabin on
deck : the passengers are usually Indians. We were
told that next year another steamer, the Princess Louise ,

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146 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

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was to be j^ut on in her stead. The route of the Offer
for the next trip was to be from Victoria to Nanaimo,
Albei-t Bay, Fitzliugh Sound, Smith Inlet, Port
Essington, Methihcatla, Fort Simpson, Sidegate, and
Queen Charlotte's Island, thus not going so far as
Wrangle. The vessel now belongs to the Canadian
Steam Navigation Company. The American mail also
runs once a month up to Alaska, starting from Port-
land, and calling (I believe) at Victoria. It leaves the
first week in each month, but has no settled day, as the
date is fixed according to the moon, light nights being
necessary for threading these intricate waters. The
best plan would be to go by the one line and to return
by the other, for the Canadian Steam Navigation
Company sends its boats to all the Hudson's Bay
stations, and up the inlets ; whereas the American boat
passes by the British Columbian ports. The route of
the Alaska- American mail-boat (the Ida/io or other-
wise) is from Portland to Sitka ; which latter place is
ISO miles north of Wrangle. In order to see the
glaciers on Stikeen River one ought to get out at
Wrangle and go by steamer (the G erf rude) up the river.
As far as I can make out, the Cassar gold mines are
beyond this again; but the glacier expedition would
only take a day each way from Wrangle. The follow-
ing information, which was given me, is rather vague : —
" The Cassar gold mines are hundreds of miles north-

irJVT

THE niOSPECTS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

Ii7

east of Wrangle; steamer to Glenora, canoe to Tele-
graph Creek, by Park Hall to Dew Lake by boat, down
to Macdanes, Creek gold mines." The scenery north
is very fine, and had we had the time to spare we
should have enjoyed going immensely ; but, although
of course it might be done m less time, it would require
three weeks to a month to see it all properly ; in any
case, I should not have been able to keej) to my engage-
ment for 18th July; so, iu the end, we abandoned the
idea. When we returned to the Driard, Tatlow came
to give us more information about land, investments,
&c. ; and Mitchell bought a mud flat at the mouth of
the Fraser River. Later on, Clive also went in for a
similar purchase ; but I was not tempted to do so, and
preferred sticking to the land seven miles from Victoria,
at Cordova Bay.

In the course of the afternoon we drove out to-
gether, accompanied by Tatlow and a friend (Mr. Jones),
to see a farm for sale at sixty dollars per acre, called
Twin Oak, three miles from Victoria, about which
Mr. Jones had some information. On the road we
passed Dean's Farm, owned by a Scotchman, for sale
at one hundred dollars per acre. This farm appeared
to be above the average, and in good order; from it
there was a beautiful view of the Sound and of the
Olympian Range of mountains. I did not care very
much for Twin Oak farm.

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148 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAli WEST.

Hi K'i

After seeing it we continued our drive to Cordova
Bay, to try and find Ross, the owner of lots Nos. '1,4
and 25. These lots adjoined the Government Reser-
vation (Cedar or Douglas Mountain), and so were in
our eyes all the more valuable, as the timber there
would remain standing. We thougiit the spot more
l)eautiful tlian ever, and determined to buy lots 24 and
25 as well as 121, if we could get them. But we were
unfortunately again unlucky in not being able to find
Ross. The Bishop's property very nearly adjoins
Cordova Bay, and we ascertained that a school and
church were within three miles of the ranche (farm).
We were obliged to return without seeing Ross, and got
back to Victoria very late, having therefore to trouble
the hotel people to serve us with another supper after
hours. In the course of our afternoon walk we had
come across a man named Tway, from Jersey, the owner
of lot No. 28, who had given us a good deal of in-
formation on various points, telling us, among other
things, that Ross's land was better than his, and that
if he (Ross) coulJ get his price, he wanted to sell and
return home.

Victoria seems to be a rising place, and the town
lots are exorbitantly high. We saw one in Government
Street which had just been sold ; it was only half a
lot — 30 feet by 60 feet — the usual size being 60 feet
]jy 120 ; but it was a comer frontage, and it fetched no

THE PltOSrECTS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA.

less than 15,000 dollars. A groat many of these corner
frontages are not yet built upon, as they are being held
by speculators ; but were I one of that liappy fraternity,
I think I should avail myself of the present high prices,
and not wait for the inevitable drop which is sure to
follow a " boom." A small unfurnished house can be
rented in Victoria at thirty dollars per month.

We set off the next morning on a drive to Langford
Lake anu Gold Stream ; the forme.' was about ten
miles distant, and both were reported to be very pretty
places. The drive to Langford Lake, and the lake
itself, were certainly pretty ; but unfortunately we forgot
all about Gold Stream, and, not having mentioned it
to our driver, we returned to Victoria without having
seen it. Or our way back we stopped to call upon the
officers of the Swiftsure in Esquimalt harbour, and on
our return to town called on Judge Walkem. Mitchell
also went to Judge Crease's — our Fraser River ac-
quaintance — Clive and I meantime going on to Govern-
ment House to say good-bye to Cornwall, stopping on
the way to have a last look at the very beautiful view
from the point outside.

We formed the acquaintance of Mr. Ward, the
manager of the British Columbian Bank, and finally
settled to buy lot 121, Cordova Bay. He asked us to
dine with him the following day, which we agieed to
do ; people are really so kind and hospitable in Victoria,

Iir

ll|;i,

ii if „

l.-iO LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

one soon gets one's day filled up. To-day (July 4tli)
is Independence Day in the States, and is celebrated
almost as much here as over the boundary. As far
iis I can ascertain, the British Columbian regrets
that his country should have been included in the
I )ominion of Canada, and would have preferred its being
constituted a separate Crown colony. There is certainly
a want of sympathy with the Canadians on the part
of the British Columbians, and the latter pretend to
consider themselves a separate colony. We spent the
evening at Judge Walkem's, and his wife sang us some
very pretty songs, the Judge talking all the time, and
telling us the prices of labour at the time of the gold-
fever in 18G2-3, which were as follows : —

Pick and shovel men ... ... 12 dollars per clay.

Bliicksniitlis ... ... ... 11 „ „

Carpenters ... ... ... 12 „ „

And others in proportion.

To-day had been again a beautiful day, and would
have been charming on the Idaho. She went noiih this
morning at 5 a.m. We decided to postpone leaving
Victoria until Friday next (July 0th), which is the
latest date we can possibly manage, so as at the same
time to keep the 18th July engagement at Glyndon
with Messrs. Cox and Jaffray, the Midland of Canada
Directors.

Clive, Mitchell, Tatlow, and I, went once more, the

Fti

THE rnnsrECTs of British colvmiha.

i.-i

next day, to Cordova Bay in search of Ross, ^oin<:^ this
time direct rid Cedar Hill and the Government Reserve.
However, we were ji^ain disappointed ; hut in lookinij
for him we struck the sections next ahove his, and
found there some cleared land gTowin<»' excellent hay —
some of the hest, indeed, I have seen in British
Columhia. This speaks well for the lots we want to
huy. I fancy, hy the appearance of the timher and the
presence of willow and alder, that there must he some
ffood land on Ross's sections. There is also a fair dis-
trihution of rock for ornamental purposes. The growth
of the arhutus trees here is wonderful and very pic-
turesque ; and altogether we were more pleased than
ever with " Cordova Ranche," and returned to Victoria,
agreeing to depute Tatlow to discover Ross, and, if pos-
sible, to make a deal with him. A Government road is
being made through the property, which will add to its
vahie.

Although Victoria is a very nice place, it is rather a
sleepy one, and I could not get a telegram oft' this
morning at 8 a.m. There are no postmen in the place,
and no delivery, so every one has to call for letters at
the office. We saw Judge Begby, the Chief Justice
of British Columbia, this afternoon. At the time of
the gold-fever he was stationed at Cariboo, where a
strict rule was necessary to preserve order. His sen-
tences while there were so severe, that it was said of

4; S'il!

1 i '<

I ;

5 ■ ■

152 LIFE AXn LABOUR IN THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

i> n

him that " after sitting in judt^mcnt all the week, when
he took his well-earned rest on a Sunday he spent his
leisure hours lookin*^ out for trees on which to hang
criminals on the Monday."

We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Ward, and during
dinner were startled at hearinj: ti." lire-alarm sounded.
"Oh yes," Mr. Ward sj* ^i, w) thing is so beauti-
fully arranged here with i :.r.n\i >o the fire-alarm, &c. ;
one stroke of the alarm indicates tliv ward in which the
fire has broken out, another the street, so that its exact
j)osition is immediately known." We were much im-
pressed with this account of the well-organised system
of the Victoria Fire J5rigade , and, later on, looking out
of the win(h)w, saw an immense blaze, apparently at
some considerable distance. The next morning we were
much amused at finding that the well-organised fire
brigade had made a mistake, for not only was the fire
not in Victoria, or indeed in Ikitish Columbia at all,
but it was actually more than thirty miles away, across
the Sound, in Washington Territory ! A watchman had
seen a bright light over the top of an adjoining rock,
and had immediately jumped to the conclusion that
there was an outbreak of fire in Victoria, instead of
which it was really the glare of an immense forest fire
in Washington Territory.

After leaving the Wards we called by appointment on
the Tatlows, and later on went to wish Baillie-Grrohman

l\'

THE rROSrECTS OF BRITISH COLUMDIA.

153

good-bye ; then we adjourned to our berths on board the
Norf/t Pacijic s.s., which was to sail in the mornin*^ at
i) a.m. for New Tacoma vn route for Porthmd (Oregon
Territory), Tatlow coming with us to see us ou board.
We parted with him about midnight, and very sorry we
were to do so, and to say farewell to Jiritish Columbia ;
but we had put off leaving until the last possible
moment, if we were to be "on time" in reaching Win-
Had it not been for this enmifjement I believ'

o'-o^

nipeg.

we should have all stayed in British Columbia until H
was time to return to England, so delighted were '^e
with the country, its climate, scenery, and inhabitants.

The best time for visiting Vancouver and H(;
west coast of British Columbia is in June and July.
The month of March is rather early ; April and May are
pleasant ; but June is very good, though likely to be
rainy. July, on the whole, is the best month. In
August there are sea mists and forest fires; and the
smoke from the burning trees spoils all the scenery.
September and October are said to be beautiful months,
with fine weather ; and this continues sometimes even
till the middle of November. The winter months in
Vancouver Island are never very cold, and hardly
enough snow falls to allow the inhabitants to indulge in
the pleasure of sleighing. There is, however, an undue
proportion of rainfall, especially on the west coast of the
mainland.

: %

t :

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154 LIFE AND LAUOVIt IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

Tlio foll()\vin<^ are a few notos as rof]fartls tho various
places suj^j^csted as tho tenuiims <»f the Canadian Pacific
liiiilrond. At present Port Moody (on Burrard's Inlet)
is the recoLjnised depot; but, o\vin<^ to the presence of ice
in the harbour tliere last winter for a short time, it is
just possible that it may be thouuflit wiser to remove
the terminus elsewhere. There are thus — (1st) Port
Moody, which possesses excellent anchorage and an

lUUUAHU 8 INLET.

■i

almost land-locked harbour, seventeen miles from the
First Narrows of Jiurrard's Inlet ; the First and
Second Narrows must be passed to reach it, but large
ships of any draught can come up. At the head of the
inlet tliere is a space left dry at low water, which is
secured to the Syndicate l)y Act of Parliament. This
land, which is about 1, ()()() acres in extent, could easily
be reclaimed if a sea-wall were built, and would then
become very valuable property, and be probably the site
of a future city. Hills covered with trees from top to
bottom rise steeply all round the inlet, and the situation
is altogether exceedingly pretty. Tliere is also an

¥■ i

THE ritOSrECTS OF UJUTISH COLUMUIA.

155

ute
to

ion
an

excellent su])j)ly of frcsli water. The iee in winter time
is rather an ohjeetion; l)ut there are various conllietinij
statements as to its thiekness.

(Mildly) Moodyville, opposite irastin<^s, and ahont
five or six miles from the outlet to the sea. It is objected
to on account of the north arm of liurrard's Inlet sto})i)in*^
railway communication, unless great expense is incurred.

(3rdly) Granville, on Coal HarlxMir, three to four
miles from the outlet, j)ossesses good anchorage, and only
the First Narrows would have to be passed to reach it ;
besides, a natural harbour is here formed by a pro-
jecting ])iece of land. The tide runs five to .seven
miles through tlu^ Narrows. The drawbacks are, that
there is occasionally a strong wind (I think from the
west), and that there is no good drinking-water.

(4thly) English Bay, which is exposed to the scmtli-
west wind ; and in order to make it of any use as a
harbour, a breakwater — say 41 5 yards long, at a cost of
perhaps one million dollars — would have to be formed
on Spanish Jiank. There is no fresh-water supply at
English Bay ; it might, however, be brought from some
lakes about .seven miles distant, and the same plan could
be adopted at Granville and Coal Harbour. AVhether
British Columbia is ever really destined to possess the
final embarkation point of the Canadian Pacific llail-
road is, however, by no means a positive certainty, for
there is still one more idea, an Act having been passed

J I

.1 ^. W

ill £>

ISil ■'
■H-1

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IM LIFE AND LAliOUIi m THE FAIi, FAR WFST.

in Hritish Columhiji incorponitin^ a railwiiy company to
build a line IVoni a point (I*oi*t Ilaniond) on tlio Frascr
River between New Westminster and Maple liidi^e,
aerosM to the 1!)" parallel. Simultaneously wi'Ji this a
charter has been obtained in the United States for a line
from lk'llin«;ham May t(j the H>' parallel.

J m: ,

•r
:i

ClIAPTEU viir.

EASTWAUi) no!

A Last Look iit Victoriii— I'ort Townsnnd— Hituttlo— UiviilTouturs— Washinjctoti
Torritory — Tjuoiiui — .Iiid;;!' Lynch — I'ortluml, Oregon Tonitory — Tho
Tarty Divides— On tin- Iron U()a<l a>,'ain -Tho Dalhrn— WaUula —
Tho Spokano Kails Sand I'oint, Idaho Ttrritory— IIoiou— IIoiho I'lainn
— Tho *' ('ow-ratthtT " — Tho Flathcads— A Narrow Krtwipe-MissouLi —
A ('onifortiil)lo Ilott'l— I'rofuHi! Trofanity.

We turned out lit .") u.m. on Friday, July (itli, to have
a last look at Victoria as our vessel steamed out of
the harhour, for we were very sorry indeed to leave the
j)lace. As we passed alon«^ the Sound we had a last
look at Government Mouse, and then turned our faces
in the direction of American territory once more. We
could not, however, see much, for forest-fires had
recently been so numerous, that uj)on a|)])roachin^' tlu'
American shore we found the wlu)le district one mass of
smoke. The fire which had attracted the notice of tlu;
Victoria lire bri«^ade on the prtvious evening had been
one of immense ma<ijnitude, and we saw the smoke from
it still ascending. Uesides this, numerous tires were
apparently smouldering in other directions in different
parts of the forests ; and throughout the day the atmo-
sphere was suffocating, and the views totally obscured
by the smoke. Had it not been for this I believe we

fi>

f\ ;!

'I*

\P>

158

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

should luive seen some grand scenery in Pu^^et Sound ;
and, even as it was, we were struck with the great size
of this estuary.

The first stoppage was made at Port Townsend, and
here we had to pass the American custom house,
where the officials were pretty strict. AVe next touched
successively at Port Ludlow, Port Gammon, and Port
Madison ; and then came to Seattle, where quite a
"boom" is at present going on, for it is thought that
the Northern Pacific llailway may possibly make this
its terminus. Town lots command a tremendcuisly high
figure, and houses are being run up very fast ; as they
are mostly constructed of wood, the place looks very
temj)ting for a good large fire — after which catastroj)he
a stone or brick city would quickly rise iqjon the
ashes of the present wooden one. The hotel touters on
the 2:)ier-liead amused us, as they shouted out to the pas-
sengers on board, seeking for customers: man No. 1,
rmmer to the Hotel St. Charles, calling out " The Hotel
St. Charles is the only first-class hotel in Seattle ;"
which was capped by man No. 2, runner to the Occi-
dental Hotel, thus, " There is j?o first-class hotel in
Seattle, but the Occidental is the only near approach
to one."

We continued our journey surrounded by smoke
from the burning forests, till we came first to Tacoma,
and then to New Tacoma, where we had to put up for

■! r

EASTWARD HOI

169

the ni^lit, all throe in one room, at a very ])ad hotel.
Bein^^ too late for supper there, we were obli<^('cl to go
to a restaurant to get some food. A portion of the
Northern Pacific Railway runs from here to Kalama. We
found New Tacoma a very hot, sultry place, with a large
proportion of Chinese inhabitants, the following being
the name of one party, " Quong, Mow, Chung, and
Sam Kee," Chinese merchants.

There was a horrid smell in our room all night, so
bad, that I lit a cigar in bed ; and, after trying vainly to
get rid of it thus, finally turned into an adjoining
sitting-room, and went to sleep on the sofa there. We
were up at 5 a.m., and left two hours later by the
Northern Pacific Eailway for Kalama, going on from
there by the steamer, Robert It. Thompsun, up the
Columbian River, and then by the Willamette River, to
Portland, at which place we arrived about 5 p.m., not
having been able to see anything during the whole of the
journey on account of the forest fires. There was a large
fire at Astoria a few days ago ; and some of the citizens
practised lynch law on thieves who had availed them-
selves of the confusion thus caused. Indeed, lynch law
is by no means out of date in Washington Territory, and
was enforced not many months ago, when the operation
of hanging the men occupied over five minutes, during
Which time a photographer "took views," and, as I was
told, made "quite a pile" by the sale of the copies.

M„

H-

160 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

i ^m

III m

On reaching Portland we went to the post-office to
get our letters and papers. I had not heard from hoiae
since May 24th, so was delighted to find six letters,
written at different times and forwarded on from
various places , for we had given Portland as our
address for the back post-offices, in preference to
Victoria, as the postal communication is not so good
to the latter place. Clive did a little shopping, by
way of getting together his " outfit " for the Kootenay
expedition.

Portland is said to be well situated, but we could
hardly see across the river (the Willamette) on account
of the smoke, and found the atmosphere very hot and
suffocating. It is probable that the 4th July celebra-
tion may have induced many people in the woods to
start extra fires on their own account ; but, however
this may be, I hope the inhabitants of Portland do not
always have to live in such a stifiing air.

On July 8th, Sunday, we went to church in the
morning, after which we occupied ourselves in making
inquiries relative to our journey of 1,(3 5 1^ miles east
to Glyndon, en route for Winnipeg ; this was to be
partly accomplished by means of the uncompleted
Northern Pacific Kailroad, and partly by driving over
the Pocky Mountains ; but, as usual, we had great
difficulty in obtaining any reliable information. It
was very hot and sultry all day, and our hotel was

the

ing

east

be
ted
over
reat

EASTWARD 110/

161

' 1

ill

a bad one. "We wrote letters, and made preparations
for an early start the next morning, and felt very sorry
to have to part with Clive for a short time, according
to agreement, so that I might fulfil my long-standing
engagement with Jaffray and Cox for July ISth at
(jrlyndon, while he kept to his Kootenay engagement
with Baillie-Urohman.

We were up at 5 a.m. the next day, and all went
as far as the steam-boat landing together. Mitchell
and I had intended going by steamer up the Columbia
River, as far as The Dalles, and thence on by rail to
Missoula; but, thanks to the forest tires, all the views
were totally obscured ; and as we were told it would
not be clear again till there had been some rain, we
very reluctantly gave up the Columbia by water, and
arranged to go direct by rail to Missoula (700 miles).
Clive, however, having too much time on hand, went
by boat ; Mitchell and I crossed tlie river at 7 a.m.,
and then took our tickets to Missoula by the Oregon
Railroad and Navigation Company. We skirted the
Columbia River, but everything was so thick that we
could not even see across it ; however, the little we
could make out of the bank on which the railway ran
showed us that the scenery was very good. Our route
lay along tl»e Oregon Territory shore ; the opposite l)ank
of the river is in Washington Territory', and is .said to
be the better scenery of the two. Above the Lower
h

> :, ■

■ I,

!. «

it '

IS- i^

LTFE AKD LABOUR IN THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

Cascades wo passed a salmon -wheel, which somewhat
reseml)les a water-wheel, but has nets instead of
paddles. The Indians had just had a catch, and we
saw a whole barrow-full of salmon being wheeled away.
We also noticed several salmon-stages, where the
fishermen ladle these fish out of the water with a
hand-net.

The steamer runs from Portland to the Lower
Cascades, where it transfers its passengers into a train
to go on five to seven miles to the Upper Cascades,
whence they proceed again by steamer to The Dalles.
As far as I could make out, I think t/he scenery about
here must be very pretty ; on the river-bank the trees
are small, but I noticed many specimens of our old
friend the Poiidcrom appearing again. Between the
Upper and Lower Cascades the Government is con-
structing a series of locks, to allow of water communi-
cation. As the line approaches The Dalles station, a
passage is cut for it out of the towering rocks, and it
has only just room to pass between the river and
mountain. I very much regretted that we could not see
more of Washington Territory (which was still only
divided from us by the river), but the smoke effectually
veiled it from sight, both during our steam down the
So^und, and also throughout our present jom*ney, so
that we iiurdly saw anything of it worth mentioning.
This wr.f, \\\? more disappointing, as it is cme of the

na\

beii

Nil

h\
sid(

the

iiid it
and
tot see
only
|;tiially
m the
|ey, so
lolling-
of tlu>

EAST]VARD HO!

163

States which is at the present time fast filling up, and
new settlers are ilockintj into it from all sides.

Soon after passing Dalles station, we came to " The
Dalles" themselves. The region is a large tract of
flat barren rock, rising just above the level of the river,
the latter having worn itself a course through tlu^
midst ; the appearance is one of complete desolation.
Further back on each side the rocks rise, thus leaving
a kind of barren valley between, devoid of all vegetation,
for the course of the river. We saw numbers of lied
Indians about here, many of them bathing, others fish-
ing. Soon after leaving The Dalles we passed into
a .sandy, desert district, which extended for many miles ;
there being nr trees, we fortunately at last left tliL'
smoke behind us ; but an intense heat, visible in the
form of mist, took its place ; and later on in the after-
noon a sand blizzard set in, blinding everything ; all
this was very different to the beautiful climate of
British Columbia. I believe the Columbia liiver is
navigable by steamer above The Dalles, but this part
of the country is quite as well seen from the railway.
The line is well engineered and solidly laid; the sleepers
being excellent and the rails of good quality.

At a place called Wallula, the Oregon liailroad and
Navigation Company's track terminates, and is succeeded
by the Northern Pacific Kailroad ; but the same pre-
sident (President Villard) acts for both lines. The

T '^

llli

fin
m

. 1

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■^hH

t It

II i

fiiil

164 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

scenery above Av'iilliilii differs in some respects from
that l)el()\v it ; it is all mon^ or less desert, but very
remarkable, on account of the jj^reat ridges of black
rock which crop up here and there, and in some places
run along for mile.? like a perpendicular wall from
oO to 1 50 feet high ; one rock resembled a martello
tower, complete in every respect except the guns.

After leaving this rocky district we came to a deep
valley, through wliich the Columbia runs, with higli
grass mountains, ill of about the same elevation, on
eitlior side — a very diuracteristic, Ijut not especially
pretty, l)it of scenery, J^ater in the evening our train,
engine and all, was taken over the Snake Uivcr on a
steam ferry-boat. AVe saw a great many Indians
throughout this dry's journey, some on Horseback and
SOUK' on foot, and also passed a large number <tf
settlers' "outfits." After l^'aving Wallula, all the
habitations we noticed (such as they were) were of a
temporary sort, being either of wood or simply tents.

At l.'M) a.m., on July 10th, we passed Spokane
Falls, which seemed rather a thrivmg little ])lace, with a
waterfall of some attractiveness. Soon after leaving here,
we noticed a tine cattle ranclie. When one considers the
look of the grasses, it is wonderful how fat the cattle
are, and in what good c<mditioH both they and the
horses appear to be ; but we were told tliat they thrive
capitally on this food, and require no corn.

EASTWAVD 110.

165

Our train had stopped from time to time to take up
fuel whenever it ^'ot the chanee ; hut we now a*;ain
came into a wooded country, and, passin<^ over an arm
of Pend'oreilk' Lake on a wooden ])ridi^e one and
three-(iuarters mih' lonj.^, we reached Sand Point, in
Idaho Territory, where a halt was made for hreak-
fast. It is from here, a few days hence, thiit Clive
will commence his expedition to Kootenay Lake, after
being joined hy HaiIlie-(}rohman. Startin<^ on a«>'ain.
we enjoyed a fine view at a place where we crossed
Clarke's Fork Iviver hv means of a wooden brid<re.
At Heron, further on, we had to s^ive up the com-
forts of our Pullman car, for an accident h < 1 hap-
pened to tiie train which left Missoula in the morn-
ing, coming west, and its Pullman had been thrown oft'
the track ; so the result was that ours was taken for
the convenience of the westward-bound passengers
during the night joui-ney. Of course tlwre was no help
for it, and we had to submit with as good a grace as we
could ; but it is wonderful how uncomfortable the ordi-
nary cars are after travelling in a Pullman. The track
a])out liere was only opened a week ago, and everything
looked new and \uifinished. We saw large gangs of
Chinese labourers at M'ork on the railway, and there
vv'ere the remains of their camps along the whole of the
new section of the route ; in many cases with mounds
near them, showing where men had been buried, often

■■■1 If

y-i

'iti

iii }H

im LIFE AM) LAliOVU IN THE FAll, FAR WEST.

vvitliin a few yards of tlie cainp. llurclly a house was
passed for scores of miles; every one a])parent]y lived in
a tent (»r In a \vai^<^^on. JJein*^ relieved of tlie cliar<^e of
the Pullman car, our conductor made rather too free
with a whisky-hottle which a friendly passenger had
brou<(ht with him.

W'^ had dinner in a very hot tem])orary hut, not far
from the river, in a dense forest ; and scxm afterwards
came to a place where two men were lynched last year,
before the railway was o])ened, for robbing" the coach.
One of the men was hurt in the scuffle, and was caught
later using crutches. Both were lynched on the spot
where the robbery took place, and we saw the crutches
still stuck up over their grave. I believe all this
district was very wild indeed until quite recently. The
language at the stations and in the train was frightful,
and seemed to ^'ct worse and worse the more nearly we
approached the Eockies.

At a place called Horse Plains there is an adminible
district for a cattle ranche ; and further on, at " Para-
dise," there are better lands still. The " cow-catcher"
whistle is not at all an unusual sound ; in one place
we found a herd of horses on the line, and were obliged
to drive them along in front of us for some time, until
at last, on approaching a narrow place, a portion of the
drove went right into the river. The scenery during
the whole of the day was very good indeed. For 000

EASTWARD 110.

miles — over since we L'ft Porthuul — wo have been fol-
lf)win<^ up tlie course of the Cohimbia Uiver, thou<,'li it
is culled by diU'erent names in dilt'erent localities.

During the afternoon the country we passed through
resembled a large park. This was particularly the case
when we came to the "Flathead" Indian Keserve,
which is exceedingly pretty, and contains excellent land.
We saw several Indian wigwams — tents with branches
of trees stuck about ; in a few cases a wooden house
stood by the wig\Aanis, and we were told that the
Indians possessing these lived in the house during the
winter, and in the wigwam in the summer. As a
rule, liowever, they wander about the Reserve hunting
and fishing. No white man can encroach on these
lleserves; the only way to locate oneself there is to
marry an Indian woman. This, it is said, many Cana-
dian half-bri ^^ave done ; but I am told that in every
case the man is always certain to be brought down to
the lower level, and the woman never rises to his. Tlie
lloman Catholics have established a mission amongst
the " Flatheads," and have done a great deal of good.
We fomid moscpiitoes very troublesome indeed about
here. Fourteen miles from ]\Iissovda we became a little
alarmed, as our train attained a great velocity, and was only
pulled up on a fragile wooden bridge 3IJ0 feet high by
the carriage-breaks being put on — the air-breaks refusing
to act ; we really narrowly escaped a very serious accidt'iit.

.*'i .

168 LIFE AM) LMiOUR IX THE FAR, FAR TTJT.ST.

:t!i I'

On arriving' at Missoula we went to the Occitlcntal
Hotel (a had one), wlicro wo S('ciir('<l one room Ijctwecii
us. It (lid not possoss a lookiii<^-<^lass, and our predi'-
ct'ssor had loft some of liis lui,''<;a<^(' hcliiud liiiu in the
sliapc of a whisky-bottle and a walkin«^-stick. They
would not j^ivo us any supper at the hotel, so we had to
{^o out to ixi't it. ^lis.soula had lu-en blessed with a rail-
way for only about a week, and it was all in a state of
"boom," which took one by surprise. Every house
seenu'd to be a " saloon," and the ])lace «^ave me the idea
of a very rowdy American town.

From Portland to Missoula is about 070 to 70(1
miles, and we passed successively through the " Terri-
tories" of Ore<^on, Idaho, Washington, and ISIontana.
I was not very well all day, possibly from the effects
of the bad smell at Taconui, or from the chanj^e of
weather, or else from drinkin*^ the water, which in
this country contains alkali — a fact I did not know
luitil later.

AVe were up at o a.m. the following morning as
usual, and found that Missoula was, after all, quite a
small place, being in fact only a collection of wooden
houses, the majority of which are saloons. Mitchell
went out early to secure a conveyance to take us across
the Kocky Mountains to Heleiui, a distance of 135
miles, for the Northern l*acific Railroad has only just
been finished to Missoula, and the gap of 135 miles

EASTU'AltJ) IKt.'

160

from there to Hch'iui is still uncoinplctcd. T mean-
while watched the (l('j)artiire of the two coaches which
run to Helena (one of whicli was called the " Ma^j^ic").
They aj)))eared to he admirahly constructed for the
torture of the ])assen<;ers, hut of this more hereafter
Mitchell procured a two-horse huj^'^y, the owner of
which undcrt(»ok for the sum of seventy-live dollars
(£15) to take us tlirou^^h in three days to Helena, or
else to take us two days' journey to J)eer Lodi^e, and
j)rovide us there with fresh means (»f locomotion for
completin<^ the journey. Mitchell said the carriage was
u very nice one, and that the driver had promised to
send it on with us, as perhaps we should not he able to
procure so j^ood a one at Deer Jjodj^e. Of this charmiui;'
carriage, &c., J shall have more to say presently ; hut
we started oil' delighted with the whole turn-out (car-
riage, horses, driver, and all), and very glad to get away
from Missoula, which we suhsecpu'ntly heard described
by a man we met as a " one-horse place, and likely to
remain so," a description which I think a very apt one.
It is a terrible place for bad language — every other word
was an oath ; I never heard such foul expressions in
all my life. Trade in the saloons seemed to be kept up
by the barman playing the customer as to who should
pay for the drink ordered {i.e., the saloon-keeper or the
customer). I assume it was done on the principle of
double or quits.

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

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n WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

716) 872-4503

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CHAPTEE IX.

THROUGH THE ROCKIES IN A BUGGY.

A Plenitude of Money — A Refractory Stood — A Night in a Log-houso — The
Result of Evil Coininuiiieations — " George " becomes More Capricioua
— A Struggle — " George " Wins — Now Chicago — Plain Speaking — A
Delay — A Shaky Wheel — A Crash — Five Tliousand Fecit ahove tlio
Sea Level — Sweetlands — Stage Coaching in the Rockies — Curious Phe-
nomenon — Helena, jMontana Territory.

At starting our road was pretty easy, but it soon got
rough, and one of our two horses — " George " by name
— showed signs of bad temper ; however, we arrived
at Pine Grove House (twenty-one miles) in safety, and,
while the horses were resting, went down to the river
for a wash. We had passed a large drove of horses on
the road ; they caught us up during our halt at Pine
Grove House, where the drover stopped for a glass of
beer and a cigar, in payment for which he threw down
a dollar, and on change being given, tossed back the
small change to the saloon-keeper, which looked as if
money was plentiful hereabouts. From this halting-
place it was a fine drive, on past a good many ranches
(both for cattle and horses), where there seemed to be
plenty of bunch-grass. " George " showed on further
acquaintance that he was both a jibber and a kicker,
and occasionally objected to going either up or down

•fii •;

THROUGH THE ROCKIES IX A BUGGY.

171

hill. Our coachman, however, drove well, very patiently
and quietly ; but the road was di'eadfully rough and
the jolting terrible ; indeed, we had to hang on so as
t() keep our places. The dust was also very unpleasant ;
the wheels licked it up by the bushel, and we soon
l^ecame as black, and (if possible) dirtier, than niggers.
We met a crowded return-coach, nine passengers inside
(three in a row), one on the box seat and four more
hanging on to the roof ; the jolting they experienced
must have been dreadful ; we watched the vehicle give
a last lurch (a fearful one) as it disappeared in the
distance. We had been previously warned to avoid
these coaches; they may carry as many passengers as
they please, and there are no seats of any kind on the
roof. A friend of mine once travelled by one, and said
he had to hang on to the roof as best he could,
supportmg himself by a plough, which shared the space
with him.

At last we arrived at our sleeping quarters for the
night — a kind of log-house on the open prairie, forty-
iive miles from Missoula, where the nearest neighbours
were half a mile in one direction, and twelve miles in
the other. It was called " Bear's Mouth Station," and
the full address was "Hell Gate Valley, Deer Lodge
County, Montana Territory." Bemg completely covered
with dust, we asked if we could have a wash, and were
shown to the common wash-place for all comers, where,

■ M

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172 LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAB WEST.

?! I"

under the inspection of four natives, who never smik^d,
we had a really good and very necessary scrub. The
situation of ]3ear's Mouth Station is fine, and the
air is very good ; hut the place may be described
as rather lonely, and we were told that in winter
the thermometer falls as low as 50*^ below zero. We
had our supper with the natives, whose language was
as bad, if not worse, than that of their neighbours at
Missoula. The road we had traversed to-day was a
mere track, and, besides, much damaged by the making
of the railroad ; stumps of trees were a common obstacle,
and apparently nobody ever thought of clearing away
boulders or any small impediments of that sort.

Mitchell and I shared the same room in the log-
house; but there being two mattresses, we separated
them, and one had the bed, while the other lay on
the floor. We were up by 5 a.m., had breakfast in
common with our driver, and started at 7 a.m. ;
" George," unfortunately, was out of temper to commence
with, and took to kicking and jibbing before we had
moved a yard. However, after a time we set off in
earnest, taking a Mexican traveller with us who wanted
a lift to '' New Chicago," twelve miles distant. We
passed a man sitting on a mound, searching the country
with glasses ; his waggons, &c., and tents, were below
him, but he had lost his horses ; probably they were
stolen, in which case his chance of recovering them was

mmmmm

i««

TIIROUan THE ROCKIES IX A BUGGY.

173

ere

■vas

extremely remote. " George " objected strongly to the
hills, and a fight commenced between him and his
master, the latter being a little out of temper with
the horse this morning. At one moment we went at
a gallop, and the next we were at a standstill ; we were
simply thrown about the buggy, for it was too rough
to be able to sit it out even when holding on with both
hands. Sometimes, after taking every precaution, we
were jerked right out of our seats, and once I lost my
hat, for it was jolted clean off my head. At last, on
coming to a very steep hill up the side of a mountain,
" George " positively refused to move either one way
or the other, so we all got out to walk on ahead, and
thus lighten the buggy. We watched our driver from
a distance, sometimes going at a gallop (when he got
his horses to move), and sometimes standing stock-still,
thanks to " George's " caprices. Once we left him well
behind, and after a long time, when we had begun to
think that something must have gone wrong, we saw a
buggy appear in the distance — but with two inside
passengers instead of one. We therefore thought it
could not be ours, but upon a closer inspection we saw
two horses in the traces, besides one following behind.
The latter proved to be the faithful "George;" for he
had resolutely refused to stir, so our driver had been
at last obliged to secure the services of a passer-by (a
cow-boy) on horseback, and " George " had triumphantly

i'^^i

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174 LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

performed this portion of the journey following behind.
His triumph, however, was of short duration, for when
they caught us up he had to go into harness again ;
but we now got on better, though the travelling was by
no means easier, but rough in the extreme. We passed
several large cattle ranches, and finally arrived at New
Chicago, where we parted with our Mexican, who turned
out to be a labourer ; he made us go to a saloon and
take a drink of whisky all round before we separated.
We had four quite small glasses — perhaps as much
altogether as one and a half of our wine-glasses — but
the price was one dollar.

New Chicago was a desolate-looking place, and nearly
every house was a saloon. There were no women to be
seen, but plenty of men. The language here again was
fearful. The people seem really as if they tried to
string together as much bjid language as possible into
one sentence ; they use two or three oaths at once,
instead of being satisfied with one. I noted down the
following cliaracteristic expressions : — " I '11 bet you one
hundred dollars to a liquor." " It's no use looking for
a liar when one comes across you." There is a good
deal of horse and cattle stealing in this part, so, accord-
higly, outside the stable was written, " Stay out, or the
dog will bite you;" and at another place "No lo/a,"
{'i.e. "loafer"). While the horses were resting, I spent
the time in writing, till I was turned out of the room

TIIUiiUGH THE ROCKIES IX A IIUGGY.

17;

Iff for

good

Iccord-

lor the

hfa,"

spent

room

by the maid, with the remark, " I guess you gentlemen
will have to clear out of here now." Judging from the
Lumber of sleighs that we noticed, I expect this must
be a cold spot in winter.

At twelve noon we started off again, en route for Deer
Lodge, forty-five miles off. It was soon evident that
something was the matter with the off hind-wheel of
(Hir conveyance. It had been repaired by the black-
smith during our hale at New Chicago, and the tire had
been taken off and replaced too tightly. The spokes
were now apparently convex instead of concave, bending
inwards instead of outwards ; in fact, the wheel seemed
put on inside out. Our driver had picked up a sailor
friend, and after a considerable amount of language
appropriate to the occasion had passed between them, we
had to return to the smithy for the necessary alteration
to be made. This delayed us for more than an hour :
but at last we got off, the sailor friend having mean-
time procured a bottle of whisky for refreshment during
the journey, the sight of which did not much please
us, as we feared the result. We were not sorry to get
away from New Chicago, for the place was not an
inviting one, and the population looked anything but
pleasant. No one, however, troubled themselves about
us strangers, and, indeed, they hardly seemed to notice
our temporary presence. The place was busy enough
with people constantly passing and cow-boys going

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(i i'i

176 XIF^ AND LABOUR IN THE FAli, FAR WEST.

tliroiii^h jit a gallop. Notirly everybody called at the
blacksmith's, and all invariably arrived and departed
witli an oath. As usual, there was no church of any
sort in the place.

Our drive on from New^ Chicago was even more un-
pleasant than our experiences of the morning. Then
we had only a dangerous horse, but now in addition we
had a dangerous wheel, which was keenly watched by
both sailor and driver as well as by ourselves, each stop-
page to examine it entailing a pull at the whisky-
bottle, in which we were asked but declined to join.
It :Joon became evident that the wheel would not
stand the thiiiy miles' drive necessary to complete the
journey. After a while the spokes, from bending out-
wards, reverted to their old position, and again bent
inwards. Possibly things might have gone on thus for
some time, but we had now to cross some deep river
fords with steep banks on either side, and large stones
in the bottom ; and in order to keep " George" going at
all, he had to be given his head, and to take these places
at a rush. In the consequent excitement, we began to
think nothing of the wheel and its weakness, when, all
at once, on a road sloping outwards, there was a sudden
lurch and a cracking of sticks. The spokes had given
way at last, and the buggy was what the driver called a
" car turned inside -out."

No one was hm't. Mitchell and I crawled out at

I fii

'^.

THROUGH THE ROCKIES IX A BUGGY.

177

it at

the top, and tlio driver had jumped ofT when he saw

tlio crash coming. Even " (jreor<^e" behaved well, and

did not try to ])()lt, l)ut stood stock still with his hind-

le*ji;s as far apart as possible, perhaps anxious to know

what was goin<j^ to happen next. We were still fifteen

miles from Deer Lodge, so the first thing to do was to

arrange how we were to get on there. It was lucky for

us tliat the accident had not happened in one of the

rivers we had to fijrd. It was also fortunate that we

were so far on our journey, for there were more settlers

in this part than further back. We had, besides, passed

many freight teams in the course of the day, and some

of these passers-by now helped us. We all gave a hand

to try and make ourselves useful ; and I learnt a dodge

for putting a car on its legs again wliicii I never knew,

nor should have thought of, before. The sailor and I

procured a piece of timber about twelve to fourteen feet

long, out of the nearest snake fence ; and then those

who knew how to do it, proceeded to put the car into

movable trim again. The stake was fixed above the

spring between the front wheels, and underneath the

back one, so that it might trail along the ground, and

thus form something for the back part of the buggy

(where the wheel was gone) to rest upon.

In this way we continued our journey until we

reached a settler's house, where we borrowed a country

waggon, into which we transferred ourselves, luggage
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ITS rjFE AND LA noun IN THE FAn, FAR WEST.

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iind Jill, leavin<>* tlio broken-down biit;*<^y by tlio side of
the road. We could not have bad a softer tumble
under tlie circumstanees, and no one was burt in tbe
least.

Our journey In' waLCi^on was not by any means a
smootb one; and " (Jeori^^e," altbou<;-b be bad bebaved
so well durini,'' tbe accident, soon be^'-an to take liberties
a<^ain ; and at last, wben about iive miles from Deer
Lodi;"e, a^-ain came to a complete standstill. Tt was on
the side of a low mountain, and the horse would neither
i^o up nor down, so a reg-ular ti«^ht ensued between him
and the driver. " Geori^e" kicked hii^ber and harder than
T have ever seen a horse kick before — at one time over
tlie pole, at another over the traces — but he could
neither hurt the wag*^on nor get at the driver, who
(!ontinued to whip him the whole time. Once the man
said he would try a new dodge, and proceeded to tie
"George's" tail to the splinter-bar (!) — the horse doing
his best to kick all the time. This plan did not succeed,
however, for master "George" stood stock still again in
the end, and would not move. After a very long struggle
the driver was victorious, and we set off once more,
presently passing the Gibbet Tree at Gold Creek, where
a man was lynched not long ago. The water here was
dii'ty, and we found that when this was the case it was
owing to gold washings up stream. About ten miles
from Deer Lodge we noticed a fine range of mountains

gap
Were

rrrjiOrnir the jiocktks tx a nn;r,Y.

171)

IS n.
lived
>rtU'S
Deer
vs OT\

[\ him
r tlvai^
Hi over

who

lie man

to tie

doiBg

succeed,

xgain in

struggle

to tlie south, wliich n'scinljlcd the Malvern Hills in
colour iuid sliajx', hut on a very much lar^'cr scale.
Later on, wo had to descend an ((xtreniely steep plaee
called Hlackfoot Pass, which was very awkward to get
ilown. At the hottoni we came on the narrow gauge
railway (Utah and Ogden Co.), which is here to form a
junction with the; Northern l*acilic Line. It runs from
this point to Ogden in ahout thirty hours. At last, at
ahout 9 p.m., we reached Deer Lodge, and went to
MclJurney's house, the time occup.' d in the forty-live
miles' drive having been fourteen hours, including
sto])pages. The scenery as a whole was not so good as
yesterday, but still very characteristic. Deer Lodge is
situated almost hi the heai*t of the llocky ^Fountains ;
but I hope that other travellers desirous of reaching
it may experience less trouble and knocking about than
we did. We wilHngly accepted our driver's oifer of pro-
curing us other horses and another driver to take us on
the remaining forty-live miles to Helena, for we did not
fancy another day with " George," or with his master
either.

Our stages had been as follows : — ^Missoula to
Bear's Mouth, 45 miles; Bear's jMoutli to Deer Lodge,
45 miles ; and we had the remaining 45 miles to Helena
to do, to make up the total of 135, the extent of the
gap in the unfinished Northern Pacific Bailroad. We

were up at 5.15 a.m. the next morning, and started at
M 2

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Ai/'V; ASD lAUnUll IS TllF. FAli. FAR WFST,

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7 ii.m., witli an oMisli man (tlic owner) as (Irivor, and
two (juiot liorsi's. We botli felt very stilV all over —
hands, arms, le<i^s, and body — after our last two days'
experienees. Deer Lodj^e stands al)out r),()0() I'cet above
the sea, and is prettily situated; immediately behind it
rises a liiLfh roeky mountain calle(l Mount Powell On
all the mountains of this part — but especially near
Missoula — elk, deer, bears, &c., are to be found. To-
dav's drive was throui^h what looked like one
immense well-ke[)t park; the forests not being con-
tinuous, but in broken and uneven patches here and
there, sometimes extensive, but often snuiU ; frequently
there were only single specimens of trees standing
separately. They were mostly of the pine tribe —
generally Po/n/cru-sa — and well preserved, not injured
by tire, tem))est, or age. The grass was all led short,
and was ut>t broken uj) by any ploughing or attempt
at arable cultivation, the whole ])lace being used as a
cattle-run by people who send here for grazing purposes
during the summer months, and the bunch-grass seemed
])retty well eaten down.

In the distance the Kocky Mountains towered up
here and there, but I am by no means as much im-
pressed with their grandeur as a range as I am with
that of other mountain-chains I have .seen. There is too
much uniformity in their outline, and the approach to the
base of the higher ridges is so gradual that their true

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riiuorcn riii: nocKms ;.v .1 in-ntiy

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Ur true

ljei<^lit can lianlly I)e properly appreeiated. 'I'lie loftier
mountains are ju'rpendicular rock, and earry some snow,
hut I liave not seen a real " snow-caj)ped monarch '"
amoiiir them. We drove twenty nnles in a very steady
fashion, and haited at a place called Svveetlands, our
driver ;.?ivin^ us some information hy the way. It
aj)pears that they have seven to ei*,dit months' winter
in this part, and severe frost, forty-five de^Tees below
zero; but still he told us it was healthier than furtlier
south. He said there was room for more stock on the
ranjj^es ; however this may be, we saw a (piantity of
dead cattle (or rather their skeletons) lyini^ about,
as indeed w^o had done throui''hout our whole drive. I
^ot a specimen of bunch-<];'rass to take home with me ;
it is h)nf^ grass growing in "tumps," and averages from
eight to twenty-four inches in heiglit. During «>ur
halt at Sweethmd the coach passed, and "stopped to
dine." It was a sorry sight to see the squeeze ; and a
passenger by one of these conveyances must indeed have
a miserable time of it, whether his place be an inside or
an outside one, unless at least he can secure the box
seat, but even then there is the chance of an upset.

Whilst waiting at Sweetland I made the following
note on the two stage-coaches from Missoula to Helena,
named respectively the "Viola" and the "Fanny
Jones." There were nine inside passengers to each
coach ; outside, besides the driver and the occupant of

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182 LIFE AND LA HOUR IX THE FAll, FAR WEST.

the box soat, passonp^ers wore luing'iricf on to the roof,
where there were no seats. Piles of hip^^aj^^e were in
the boot, on the top and at the back of each vehicle.
Tliere was no door to the body of the coach, only three
openini^s as windows ; passengers alight by the centre
one of these. Of conrse there was no glass to the
windows, for it would be very speedily broken with the
rough motion ; there were instead canvas blinds or
curtains. The interior was lined with dirty brown
leather, and the coach-body was hung on leather straps
instead of springs, which is, I believe, the only method
by which sufficient strength can be obtained for
mountain travelling. The body was painted red, and
was vevy dirty, but all traces of colour had been knocked
off the wheels ; the roof had, I think, once been white.
As to tbe inside accommodation, there were a front and a
back seat to hold three passengers each, and between these
two a board was fixed for a seat, where the legs of
these six passengers ought to go. This board — which
had a common rope stretched across it to form a back —
^cld three passengers more, thus making up the ac-
commodation for nine. These convevances were each
drawn by six good horses, and the harness was excellent.
Of the drivers, two were reported to be sober men
(from Helena to Deer Lodge), and two drunken ones.
When ready to start, the two wheelers were hitched on,
and the other four liorses put in their places, but left

fflH

'"^'•l^t

lie roof,
were in
vehicle,
ily three
ic centre
s to the
with the
)linds or
;y brown
ler straps
y method
lined for
red, and
1 knocked
on w^hite.
•ont and a
een these
e legs of
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a back —
the ac-
^vere each
excellent,
(ober men
liken ones,
itched on,
Is, but left

TniiOUGJI THE ItOCKIES IN A BUGGY.

183

loose. On k?aving Sweetland tlie " Viohi " bad fifteen
passengers — viz., nine inside, one on tlio box, and five
hanging on to the top ; the " Fanny Jones " had
fiMirfceen — viz., nine inside, one on the box, and four
on the roof — and these numbers were increased l)efore
reaching Helena. Ea.eh passenger is allowed 100 lbs.
of luggage at starting, but it is said that when about
half way they are told tliat all above 40 lb. weight
is tt) be paid for extra.

We saw a very curious effect of light to-day on
the Rocky Mountains, giving the appearance of a mass
of snow over a whole range, making it look like the
depth of winter. The drive throughout the afternoon
was well worth the trouble we had taken to see it,
especially at " Priest's Pass," the point on the " Main
Divide " where the summit is attained, and one ascends
the Pacific slope to descend that of the Atlantic; we
could see streams running each way. Just before
reaching this point I picked some good bunch-grass,
and found a capital specimen of bull's horns. Previous
to making the final ascent, we saw the works in
progress for the Northern Pacific Railway ; about eighty
or one hundred horses were at work making ^h -la-
bankment, hitched on to large scoops ; apparently the soil
is not dug as with us, but scooped up and then hauled.

On reaching the summit, S,000 or 9,000 feet above
the sea, the park-like scenery of the Pacific slope gave

\ ;:

184 LIFE AXD LABOUR IS THE FAlt, FAR WEST.

way immediately in tlie most strikingly sudden manner
t() the more riijjired and severe look of the Atlantic
slope ; the grass was browner, the rocks peaked and
rough, the trees shrivelled, small and broken. The
transformation was wonderful in its suddenness, and
Mitchell and I simultaneously called each other's
attention to it, neitlier of us being prepared for the
change. Some 2,000 or 3,000 feet below us we could
just see where the Northern Pacific Eailroad Company
are boring the Munnel tunnel, 5,000 feet long.

We reached Helena, 4,400 feet above the sea, just
before the coach, and put up at the International Hotel,
having given our driver's friend, the landlord of the
Occidental Hotel (where we went first), a lesson not to
keep strangers waiting too long for accommodation,
by leaving him and going to his opponent. Helena
used to be a thriving gold-field in former days; we
were told that fifty men had once been lynched here
in one day owing to the Vigilance Committee's strong
measures to enforce order. It struck us as a busy but
nasty-looking place, and its inhabitants seemed to be
all adventurers, as indeed I suppose they mostly really
were. My clothes suffered more in this journey over
tlie mountains than in all the other part of our
tour put together. I am very glad to have ac-
complished this route, and to have seen this part of
America, but (supposing pleasure to be the only object)

— 1 >

THROUGH THE ROCKIES IX A BUGGY.

185

iner
ntic
and
The
and
her's
• the
could
ipany

I, just
Hotel,
3f the
not to
ation,
elena
s; we
d here
strong
|isy hut
to he
really
ly over
lof our
Ive ac-
3art of
I ohject)

I do not think that I sliould fancy traversing it a
second time. All American stage-roads are abominable,
but this is the worst by far that I liave as yet seen,
and we were both very tired in the evening in con-
sequence of the three days' jolting, &c.

: i|! i #

liiP

I .1

CHAPTER X.

AGRICULTURE IN MONTANA AND DAKOTA.

En route for Glyndon, ^Minnesota — IMontan.a Territory — Chiiractor of tho Land
— -l$ozeman — Yellowstone River — Yellowtitono Park — Crow Indian Reser-
vation Ground — Glendive — Dickinson and its iStrects— Dakota Territory
— Its Agriculture— Across tho Missouri — Bismarck — Ghiidon — Winnipeg
— Farming Notes — Trip to Otterburno, Manitoba— Inspection of Farms —
A Drive in a Buck hoard.

The Northern Pacific Railroad is just completed to
Helena, and an attempt is being made to open it right
through to Portland (Oregon) by September 1st of this
year. Our train for Glyndon — which is on the St.
Paul's, Minneapolis, and Manitoba Railway — was to
leave about 7 o'clock a.m. On our way to the station
in the morning we passed some of the old gold-
workings ; with a good pick and plenty of water to
wash w4th gold getting must, I think, be easy work.

When we arrived at the station I found that the
porter had not sent one of my bags. As I have always
before carried them myself, it was hard that in this case
I should lose one, but the porter had come and
bothered me, so I had given up one into his charge with
the above-named result. However, on sending back
to the hotel, I got it all right. Unfortunately, this was

AGBICULTUIiE IN MONTANA AND DAKOTA.

187

10 T.aticl
1 Rc8cr-
'crritory
''inmpcg
b'arms —

,ed to
] right
)f this
he St.
as to
itation
Pfold-
iter to
Irk.

|at the
Aways
is case
te and
■e with
back
lis was

not all; for, after the train had started, I discovered that
mv beautiful bull's horns had not been sent either;
these I hope much to recover, and have written for
tliem to be forwarded to Winnipeg, saying that they
are "specimen horns." My arms were so stiff to-day
from the shaking that we have had that I could hardly
u.se pen or pencil.

Montana is a hilly country, all grass, with trees
dotted about ; there is plenty of land for stock-raising
purposes, but irrigation is badly required. The best
plan in settling here would be for a grazier to get
a section facinsr a river, and two or three other
sections in line; he would thus secure a good water
supply, and have plenty of grazing land (twenty-five
miles or more) in rear ; and stock-men know how to
manage their own affairs so as to be neighbourly to one
another.

We passed over a high ridge of ground, through
which the " Bozeman " tunnel, 3,700 feet long, is being
bored — it is a pretty high elevation, and the summit
is completely carpeted with beautiful wild flowers.
Bozeman station would be a good starting-point with
pack animals for the Yellowstone Park ; but after the
1st of August Livingstone will be better, for a line will
then be opened from thence to the Mammoth Springs
(or very nearly as far), a distance of sixty or seventy
miles. During the whole day we travelled through a

'U,'

Ill

1H8 LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAIi, FAB WEST.

grass country ; at a j^lace called Billings (near which
is North field Ranche, belonging to a Captain Hill,
whose acquaintance we had made on board the
Germanic), we crossed the Yellowstone River, and then
came into the Crow Indian Reservation Ground. From
Helena to Billings is 239 miles, a distance which our
train took thirteen hours to perform ; but about this
I do not complain, for it is a newly-constructed line,
and under such circumstances I prefer going slowly.
We had a comfortable " sleeper " and a good dining-
car attached.

We were near Glendive, Montana Territory, when
we awoke the next morning. It had become cool again
after leaving Missoula, and now we had had some rain
during the night, which was quite a wonderful event.
I had slept badly ; and scolded the darkie for having
made up the bed uncomfortably, all on a slope, but
he did not at all approve of my remonstrances. Each
" sleeper " contains twenty-four berths arranged in two
tiers, twelve on each side (six upper and six lower ones).
In the dining-room car there were ten tables, to ac-
commodate forty guests at a time.

We passed on to-day through continuous grass
lands ; most of the stations showed signs of towns
springing up, but I think Dickinson was the first to
attract much attention, and here a large new engine-
house was being built. The houses appeared scattered

i 1

crrass
towns
:st to
igine-
ttered

AGRICULTURE IX MONTAXA AXD DAKOTA.

189

about anyhow ; there was no church ; the place was
entirely devoid of trees, and there seemed no road or
approach to it, except over the open prairie. After
leaving Dickinson we saw a good deal of land broken
in patches here and there ; aud the prairie became
gradually flatter and flatter as we travelled further east.
At Eichardson a heavy thunderstorm overtook us, and
we had besides the benefit of a hail-storm.

The inhabitants of these new settlements have great
ideas of their " streets." An instance of this occurred
at Dickinson, where I went into a hardware shop to
buy a biscuit, the proprietor of which replied that he
had not got any, but that I could get one at the store
down the street. To my innocent inquiry as to where
the street was, the man indignantly replied, *' Cannot
you see it?" It consisted of a wide, open space, be-
tween his shop and a store about fifteen feet square
popped down by itself on the opposite side ; certainly
"the street" was broad enough — about half a prairie.
Hereabouts lignite coal crops up from the ground. It
is very soft, but nevertheless is used, as there is no
wood or good coal to be had in the neighbourhood.
Shafts are run into the sides of the low, round-topped
prairie hills, and the coal brought out direct alongside
of the line for the use of the engines, &c. In many
places along this route, grass knolls crop up in peaks
about thirty to forty feet high. In some instances the

r"^

I A

1- .1

I i>

mi\

;!'

1,1 :

:! i| ■

190 LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

I'l

(:»'1

rock shows through the face, but generally they are
grass-covered. Dakota Territory, in which we now
found ourselves, appears to be a fine rich State, and rain
is said to fall here much more plentifully now than
formerly. The land in the western part is ploughed up
in pa' jhes here and there, but no systematic attempt
seemed made at farming. However, after crossing the
Missouri at Bismarck, we found the country better
cultivated, and the lands as a whole seemed to improve
in quality the further east one came. At IMyth's Mine
(late Sim's), we passed a new collier}', and at Mandane
came to the first real town we had seen, quite a
rising place. Here we crossed the Missouri, and came
to Bismarck on the opposite bank, round which there is
a fine open country.

Distance from Bismarck, Dakota T., to Poi't-
laml, Oregon T. ...

Distance from Bismarck, Dakota T., to St.

Paul's, Minnesota
Which, when the line is completed, will make

a total of . . .
As to the distance we have travelled from — —

British Columbia —
From Victoria B. C. to New Tacoma, Wash-
ington T., say ... ... ... ... 150

„ New Tacoma to Portland, say ... ... 167

,, Portland, Oregon, to Glyndon, Minnesota l,Go2

Miloa.
1,447

409

1,910

Making a total of ... 1,909
The next day we were up at 5 a.m., to find ourselves

AGRICULTURE J.Y 2I0NTANA AND DAKOTA.

191

rselves

still passing through a fine open country, with good
land, an^ everything very green. The farming here
was r v^idently very well done ; but the crops looked
backward. I did not notice any fencing or divisions of
any sort in the fields. Fargo was a rising-looking place.
AVe reached Glyndon at 7.40 a.m., and the train nearly
took us on, for the} did not pull up at the platform.
We, however, made them stop and put back into the
station. We decided on waiting at Glyndon for the
day, in order to see whether Messrs. Cox and Jaffray
would answer my telegram sent to Chicago ; and we
occupied the time in WTiting. In the course of the
afternoon a telegram arrived from Jaffray saying he
would be with us the next morning by 7.45 train, but
that Cox was unavoidably detained, for which I was
very sorry indeed. Glyndon is quite a small place,
situated at a point where the Northern Pacific and the
St. Paul's, Minneapolis, and Manitoba lines cross each
other. The officials (especially at the telegraph depart-
ment) were by no means a civil lot. There are a few
houses, and we went to look for a room, but found the
accommodation so very bad — worse indeed than any-
thing we have had to put up with as yet — that we
settled to go on by the 8 p.m. train, sixty miles further,
to Crookston, where we arrived about eleven o'clock,
and going to the Linton House Hotel, secured comfort-
able quarters for the night.

,! i :'

;; i

;h' i

i- '

192 LIFE ASD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

The next day we spent the morning in writing until
eleven o'ck)ck, when the train from St. Paul's arrived,
and we met Mr. Jallray. He was travelling in the
official car of the Midland of Canada Eailway, and had
half-a-dozen companions with him, viz., Colonel Wil-
liams, M. P. for Port Hope and CVmservative Whij) to
the Canadian House of Commons, and his son Victor ;
Mr. Mackenzie ; Mr. Davies (son-in-law to Mr. Cox) ;
and a stranger whose name I did not know. Mr.
Stephens (brother to Mr. George Stephens, President of
the Canadian Pacific Railway), came part of the way
with us, leaving us at a station close to which he had a
farm, which he had brought into a high state of culti-
N'ation and sold very recently. The lands were very
Hat all the way to Winnipeg. Presently we passed
Otterburne Station, three mile.' from which is " Little
Jiredenbury," which we propose going to see another
day. Judging from later experiences, I do not think
the approach from this side gives one a correct idea of
the country round Winnipeg. We were passing along
the Ked liiver Valley, and the soil in the immediate
neighbourhood of the railway seemed for a time rather
wet ; but, as I found afterwards, a little way back from
the line on either side the lands lie high and dry, and
are of a very good quality.

On reaching Winnipeg at 7 p.m., we went to the
Potter House Hotel. I subjoin a few notes as to

.-gf

: n

AGlllCULTL'Ri: IX .UOXTAX.l AS'D DAh'UTA.

lOJ

idiate

•atlier

from

and

fai.niii^ laiuls in Montiiiia and ! )aknta, liC'c., Terriiorics.
The wliolo of Montana is very liilly, all the hills bi'iui;-
^rass-c'ov('i\'d. The western portion of t!jis State is
well-wooded; but still, i,''enerally an open country. On
tlie western slope of the Uocky Mountains it resembles
one immense })ark — all yrass, well led down, with
j^roups (mostly small) of trees here and there, and no
very hir<^e continuous forest; in faet, the inijiression
«:fiven is that the trees almost must have been purposely
thinned out for effect. On the eastern portion there an*
very few trees, and the sudden change on the " Main
Divide " is especially remarkable, the alteration in
vejjetation from the western to the eastern slone beinij
instantaneous. The western side is greener, and the
trees better grown, although small when compared with
those we had seen near the Pacific sea-board. The
eastern side gives one the impression of a drier countr}' ;
the grass is browner, and the trees smaller, and more
damaged by storm and tempest ; the rocks on the
eastern side are sharper and more clearly-defined than
those on the western.

There are any amount of cattle ranches in Mon-
tana; but perhaps what strikes one most is the im-
mense quantity of horses * and ponies that one sees in
large droves. Sheep are also bred in great numbers,
and I am told that it takes less money to run a sheep

* These are justly ct'lebiatod.

:i i

I'M iJi'ic A\i» n.inouii IX THE r.iii, r.iii west.

'V ;

tliiiii a cuttle ranclw. The country is virtually ontircly
a stock-raisint^ 'I'crritory, and scarcely any j)art of it is
broken by the plou^^'h. A. ^'reat de.il of <be land in
Montana n<»ar the Xorthern Pacific Kailroad, looks
])0or. 'I'his is mainly owing' to the drouj^^lit. There
are, however, many rivers, such as th<> Missouri, the
Yellowstone, iVc, and their tributaries. In their
neighbourhood immense cattle ranches may be seen.
In ]\Iontana there is less loss in cattle throuj^h cold
than in \Vyomin<^, and the animals raised here are con-
sidered better nieat ; but Wyoming- and Montana reckon
together as the two best cattle States ; for though Texas
Clin raise a greater head, the keej) is not so good there.
1 am interv ,sted in the " Indian Territory;" but people
do not seem to know much about it in these parts. All
the same, judging I'rom Mr. Hewitt's view of the
matter, 1 believe it will turn out to be as good land
as any. Montana is one of the largest of the United
States ; and now that the Northern Pacific Railway will
shortly be completed,* is likely soon to be filled up.
The chief drawback to the country seems to be that the
water, although very clear, is full of alkali ; and, very
often, unwholesome to drink.

Pennsylvania, New York, and Ohio, are the best
and finest districts for mixed farming in America,
Illinois and Iowa being the best wheat-growing States.

* Since this was writtcu the liue has been openeil throughout.

t is
I iu
»()ks
here

tbo
tlu'ir
seen.

cold
» con-
eckon
Texas
t\iere.
peoi^lc

All

)i tlio

lI land

Inited

ly will

d up.

lat the

\, very

l\e "best
Imerica,

States.

mi.

.[GRWUI/rURE /.V .VO.VT.tV.l AXD DAKOTA.

la-.

In Dakota Territory no land was broken alouLj the rail-
n)ad ronte nntil we readied Dickinson; and tlier«'
was no re^'ular attempt at fanninL,^ nntil we arrived
at Misniarek. The country is llat, thou^'li in plaees
undulating ; in som * parts (as I have said bel'ore) ^rass
knolls crop up in peaks to a considerable heii;"ht. New
houses are sprin^'ini^ up at every station. There are no
trees, but very tine-looklni,'' <;-rass lands; and althoui;-h
tliere are far fewer cattle than in Montana, the L,n'ass
looks much s^'H'ener and well adai)ted for lari^n' ranches.
1 assume that the laws of settlement compel the settler
to break up a certain amount of land annually ; and I
should think this country was better adapted for small
settlers than Montana. From what I could notice
alonu^ the railway route, I believe that Dakota will
eventually become an important agricultural district ;
especially as I am told that much more rain falls there
now than formerly, and that, therefore, the country is
better suited for farming purposes now than it used
to be.

Wednesday, July ISth, we spent in making calls and
looking round Winnipeg. AVe called upon Mr. McTavish
(of the Canadian Pacific Land Commission), Mr. lirydges
(the representative of the Hudson's Bay Company), and
on Mr. Wainwriglit and Mr. Sweeny, to whom I ha.d
introductions. Considering that Winnipeg as a town
had no existence a few years ago, it really is a wonder-
N 2

;' i

If**;

!"^

lOG LIFE AXD LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

fill \)]iicQ. There was a great " boom " here about two
years back, but that is all over now, and I expect a
i^'ood many people burnt their fingers with town lots ;
the place is quiet enough at present in every respect,
in fact I was quite surprised to find how very little
business appears to be now carried on. The streets are
wide, but not half made, and the mud in wet weather
is dreadfully sticky. The town i^ built at the junction
of the Assiniboine and lied Rivers ; the site was
originally only a fort of the Hudson's Bay Company,*
and the old fort building is still standing, but some new
stores on a large scale have recently been erected by
the Company to replace it. The surrounding country
is of course quite Hat, but we were surprised to find so
many groves of trees — mostly small poplars — in the
immediate neiijrhbourhood.

In the afternoon I went to the telegraph-office,
and found there a telegram from Clive to the effect
that Baillie Grohman had disappointed him in the
Kootenay engagement, and that he was following us
as fast as he could, and expected to reach Winnipeg
by Saturday. The Winnipeg Club — to which we were
admitted on the nomination of young Gait f — is as good
a one of its kind as I have seen in this part of the
world. We were much amused at a puff in the news-

* Fort Garry.

f A sou of Sir Alexander Gait, late High Cbmmissiouer for Canada.

- :i^ jU'.^ I -ji-i-KSCiJi ." :

I'll

AGIUCULTURE IN MnXTANA AXJ) nAKnTA.

l'.>7

was

the

ing us
mipeg
|e were
Is good
lof the
news-

mada.

papers about us and our part}' wliicli we saw here.
The summer climate here is apparently pleasant
enough, and the evenings are delightfully long ; but
by all accounts the winter., are very severe. AVe had
a long discussion to-day with ^Ir. JatlVay as to our
plans ; it appeared that he was expecting to be joined
by some Toronto friends, who wished to come ^vith
us to the North- West, and who had only a limited
time at their disposal ; so it was eventually decided,
to suit them, that we should start next Friday morning,
and we thereupon settled that we would go the follow-
ing morning to see our Otterburne property.

Accordingly, Mr. Jaffray and I left Winnipeg the
next day at 7.55 a.m. for Otterburne station (thirty-one
miles distant), in the neighbourhood of which " l^ittle
Bredenbury " is situated. By mistake, we passed the
station, as the name was not called, and we had not
expected to reach it so soon ; however, the conductor
came to tell us what we had done, and stopped the
train for us to get off'. After some time we succeeded
in hiring a buggy, in which we drove out to Mc Vicar's
location, which is the next section but one to ours.
This we found to be occupied by three brothers, nice
civil fellows, all three bachelors; and each I fancy
on the look-out for a wife; they said that girls
were 6'o scarce about there, and wives not easy to find.
One of the brothers (John Mc Vicar) accompanied us

iii

^^i

1.1 •

,-, . -

198 LIFt: AND LAIIOUR IX THE FAB, FAR WEST.

¥'

i -

^f^

£ 1

to show us onr lots, tlio location of wliicli lie knew, and
we drove over tliem from end to end. Mc Vicar told us
that it was some of the best land in that neighbour-
hood, and could not well be better ; and we ourselves
came to tlie same conclusion, being very much pleased
with what we saw. The soil is a black loam of great
depth ; there is some small scrub-wood about, but this
would all plough out if the land were cultivated. AVild
ATtches grow here to any extent, as well as good grass
for cattle ; I picked about a dozen different kinds of
wild flowers, tiger-lilies, &c. ; and in places we came
across patches of beautiful wild strawberries, which it
would do the children at home good to see.

John McA'^icar drove us back to his house — which
is a new one just completed — and asked us in to dinner,
which invitation wo were glad to accept ; the meal
consisted of fish caught in the Eat Eiver close by,
bread, potatoes, milk, and tea. He and his brothers
(Neven and Angus) manage the household work en-
tirely themselves, and have about 900 acres altogether
to farm. The prices of land and of labour have both
gone down of late in this district ; men can now only
earn about one and a half dollars {i.e., Gs.) per day, out
of which they have to pay six dollars a week for board
and lodging, and one dollar for washing.

The winter here lasts about six months, and
usually commences with November; January and

AGUICULTUIiE IX MOXTANA AND DAKOTA.

lf»9

i^e both

|w only

ly, out

board

|s, and
and

February being the hardest months ; nevertheU'ss,
John McYicar spent the Avliole of last Avinter in a
tent. The time during this season is einpl()3'ed in
feeding the cattle and in cutting wood. June is con-
sidered to be the rainy month, but this year there has
been no rain for two months — /.<?., not until the second
week in July. Thunderstorms are not frequent, and
mosquitoes are not particularly troublesome.

^Ic Vicar's house, which was all of wood, cost £150
for materials only, without labour. But it is a good-
sized house, with one large room upstairs, and the same
down-stairs. There are many French emigrants from
Lower Canada in these parts, also a good many Rus-
sian emigrants, of whom more hereafter. A Ttoman
Catholic chapel and a school have been built for the
French ; but an English church and school are badly
wanted for our colony. After wishing our neighbours
the McVicars good-bye, we walked to see a farm of
1,400 acres, belonging to a Major Greig, of Toronto,
which has been in cultivation for nearly three years,
and is occupied by his two sons. We found young
Greig and his wife at home. They have just built a
new house, a double one — something like a large-sized
double cottage — so as to accommodate the second Mrs.
Greig, as the younger brother is about to be married.
It cost 2,500 dollars (£500). Besides this, they have
lately put up a new barn, for which the contract price

i'i^M f!

200 lAFE AXD LABOUR IX THE FATt, FAR WEST.

was £:280 ; and have also sunk a well to a depth of
eighty feet, at a cost of five dollars (or £1) per foot.
There is no alkali in this district. The value of land is
from five to fifteen dollars per acre.

We went over young Greig's farm. The cattle,
which numhered about forty head, looked in excellent
order, quite fat enough and with first-rate coats. The
wheat was put in in May, and they said it ought to be
fit for cutting the end of August. I picked seven
different kinds of wild flowers, including roses, from
amongst the wheat. Tiger-lily plants in flower abound
everywhere.

We drove back to Otterburne Station with young
Greig in his " Buck-board," the first experience I have
had of this kind of locomotion. It is a funny-looking
turn-out, rather like a buggy ; four very high thin
wheels, and one centre seat, with foot-board and splash-
board, compose the vehicle. It is built purposely for
prairie work, and is extremely light, but very strong ;
intended really to carry only two persons, but usually
made to take three, in which case the driver sits bodkin
between the two passengers. There is a little place
behind for luggage, fixed in line with the back wheels.

We caUj^iit the train, and arrived at Winnipeg about
7.30 p.m., where we came across Mr. McTavish, who
was most obliging, and gave me passes on the Canadian
Pacific Kailway for Clive, Mitchell, and myself. These

ri!

AGRICULrURE IN MONTANA AND DAKOTA.

201

\vill be very useful if we do not want to be always with
the Midland car, and. will make iis more independent.
I was told by a high authority on such matters, that
Southern Manitoba contained the best land in Canada ;
and that any investment in land which could be made
at a fair price within ten or twenty miles of Winnipeg,
would be of great ultimate value ; for this place must,
my informant said, be the great city of the future for
all the North-West. Quite late there was an alarm of
fire, so out we went to see the blaze, which appeared to
be confined to a couple of houses ; and, as there was no
wind, did not spread. We, however, saw enough to
form the opinion that the Winnipeg fire-brigade is a
very efficient one and. well managed.

.''

■l.i I

CHAPTER XI.

THE NORTH-WKST TERRITORY.

Aj>nculture between Winiiipcf^ nnd IMarqucttc — Scotch S(!ttlcrs — rovtap;e la
I'laiiic — Ihaiuloii — Virdon — A Visit liuiii the Police — The One-mile
]5(,'lt — Tieii I'lantini^' — A I'lairie iSunsut — Moon-rise on the I'rairie —
Indian Head— A Drive to Fort Qu'Appcllo— A Fiold of Twelve Hundrid
Acres— Fariiiiiii,' in Minnesota and in the North-West compared — A
yettlor's Story.

We left Winnipeg by the 7.30 a.m. train on the
following morning, July 20th, in the Midland of
Canada railway official car, via Canadian Pacific Hail-
way, on our expedition to the North-West Territory ;
our party consisting of Mr. Jaffray, and Mr. McKenzie,
of Toronto ; Mr. Davies ; Colonel Williams, M.P.,
and his son Victor ; Mr. Bath ; Mitchell, and self.
Three other gentlemen had arrived from Toronto to
join the party, but one was taken ill and could not
move, so the ccher two stayed with him ; and I believe
intend, if possible, to join us later, uf) the track. We
were told that two of them were influential bankers.
Of course there was a notice in the newspapers of their
arrival at AVinuipeg. On leaving the town the railway
track struck out at once over the open prairie, and we
were surprised to find that for twenty-five miles there
were no signs of corn cultivation, which seems a sad

THE XORTII-WEST TEniilTORY.

pity ; but it is owing to the liind being held by specu-
lators. The grass appeared to be of an excellent
quality, much better, in fact, than I had expected to
see ; not long and rank, but pasture fit for stock, and
likely to make good hay. Apparently the hay crop is
not cut early, but quite late, at the same time as the
corn , indeed, no great attention seemed to be paid to
it, but it is cut when convenient. The season this year
is a backward one, and the harvest will be late. From
what 1 could see of the corn crop, I should say that it
is not any more forward than that of Jiritish Columbia.
The usual time for commencinjj t(^ cut is said to be tv)-
wards the ^*itter part of August — but I saw a great deal
of corn not evt-'" in ear. There are no large fields " of
thousands of acres " of grain in this district. They are
all comparatively small, and not fenced in. Between
Winnipeg and Marquette (which was the first station I
noticed), all was grass ; but at Poplar Point we saw
some very fair corn crops, and the soil looked good.
Here there were trees in the distance — a sure sign in
this country of the vicinity of a river ; in this case they
marked the course of the Assiniboine. These lines of
trees take off* from the monotony of the great prairie.

There are a good many old Scotch settlers in this
part. A Mr. Gibson, a large Canadian miller, who got
into the train at Poplar Point, gave us a good deal of
valuable information, and explained the meaning of

r >

2H LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

some of the Indian njimes, telliui'- us tliiit ^lai itoba
meant '* Wliisperinf.'* Spirit " ; Assini))oine, *' tlie river
that runs from the stron<^ Indians " ; and Saskatchewan,
" the river that runs rapidly." He told us also that
when there is no rainfall in the sprint', the moisture
left in the ground after the frost is sufficient in itself
to moisten the land ; and that this, combined with the
summer heat, has the effect of turning the soil as it
were into a hot-hed, and of course greatly increases
its fertility. This information was confirmed by what
I heard subsequently.

We soon reached Portage la Prairie, which is a
very rising settlement, with some excellent land in the
neighbourhood ; and water at a depth of only fifteen
feet. The next place which attracted our attention
was Brandon, 132 miles west of Winnipeg, where we
halted for dinner ; two years ago there was only a
single house here, but now it is quite a town. We now
passed into a district of poor and undulating land,
covered with brushwood, it being the first of the three
ridges into which the North- West Territory is divided.
At Virden I left a message for young Power (who is
managing Rankin's estate twenty miles from here),
to tell him that I was in the countrv, and would try to
look in on our return journey. At a place called
Moosomin we had a visit from the mounted police,
who wanted to examine the car, as no spirits are

TITE XOirriT-WEST TERRITORY.

205

admitted into tlio North- West Territory ; fortimately
for us, however, Coh)nel AVilliams liad telej^raphed to
Governor Dewdney at Uei^'ina, so we liad a permit, and
were allowed to ])ass our stores. These men are well-
dressed in red uniforms, and have a smart soldierly
appearance ; they bear a very his^h reputation, and are
said to get on capitally with the Indians, and to have
a great influence over them. The country here is very
undulating, with a good deal of scrub-wood about, and
grass ridges and mounds ; in fact, it is what is called
" rolling prairie." The line is at present only fenced
in for a certain distance from Winnipeg, but doubtless,
in time, this will be carried on throughout ; the sleepers,
instead of being (as I had expected) laid flat on the
prairie without any further construction, are raised
the whole way on a slight embankment ; the road also
appears to be very solidly made, and the ballasting is
excellent, as gravel is found in places alongside the
track. The country on each side close to the railway
looks almost uninhabited, for the Government (or the
Eailway Company) have decided to keep what is called
the " one-mile belt " for the present, and not to sell the
lands contiguous to the line, for fear of their being-
bought by speculators instead of by actual settlers.
Of course these lands will come into the market by-
and-bye ; but for the present, in order to see how
the country is filling up, one must go inland off the

:!' ':•

: %

I '^1'

■I

ill

200 iirr: axd iMiorn in tuk fau, faii west.

Jh"!

line* As wo travelled on wo could, however, see settlors'
houses dotted about in the distanco beyond the ono-milo
bolt; there seemed a i^reat many small farms, but they
were mostly rather I'ar apart.

In my opinion some steps should be taken to insist
iij)()n troo-plantiuL!^, for this, if jiulieiously done, would
have a jj^reat elVect in aiterin;j^ the appearance ol" the
country (es])ecially the bare bleak look ol" the open
])rairie), besides providinij;' materials for shelter and iiriuL;".
There are certainly a few trees about, but they may
be called exceptional, and we passed throuj^h many
parts wlu're not even a shrub w^as to be seen for miles.

Our car had a «»'ood many visitors in the course of
the day, to all of whom (accordini^ to Canadian fashion)
I was introduced ; but 1 cannot pretend to remendjor
their names. \Ve passed ininierous small tarns in
diU'erent places, and saw wild duck on nearly every one
of them ; but at present they are too small to shoot at,
and I should not think they w\\\ be sufficiently grown
for at least another month ; so I fear, after all, the guns
which we procured in Winnipeg will be of but little
use to us for either duck or prairie fowl. Throughout
the day the weather was pleasantly cool. There was
a glorious sunset in the evening ; it was my first
experience of a real prairie sunset, and I can only
compare it to a Norwegian one — or better still, to an

* These restrictions have been remoAed since the 1st Jauuaiy, 1884.

o;uns
llittle
rliout
was
first
only
bo an

Tin: X()i!Tfr-\vi:sT TKunirnuy.

'Ji'7

ocoan sunset — \vliii;li, to tlioso wlio Iwivc seen one, will
1)0 onou^li to convfy wliat a bcautirul sii;-l»t it is ; but,
jiflorious as it was, our adininitiou was subs('(|UL'nlIy
cjuito as luucli cxcitod by tlic nu)()n-ris('.

Wo arrived at Indian Head al)(»ut IL.'iO p.m., and
sliortly afterwards all retired for t!io uig'ht, making- use
of tlio Midland of Canada railway ear as our sleepinijf
(juarters. Mr. JalVray insisted on j^'iving up the " states
bed-room " to Mitchell and mysi'lf. It was a little room
used as a sleepin<^-room on the car, and was really very
comfortable indeed. The other members of our l)arty
slept in the car itself, beds beini;' made up there by
^larsli (the attendant), on sofas and chairs. It was a
great luxury havin<^ the car ; for, as far as we could
learn, there was no suitable sleepin«^- accommodation to
be had at Indian Head, tliou^^h an hotel is now being
built there by the Jkdl Farm Company.

We were not very warm when we woke the next
morning, for we had had one large window open all
night, and discovered that the veutilators had been
open as well ; and the weather really was quite cold.
However, thanks to my coat and rug, 1 had numaged
to keep pretty snug. We were soon on the move,
for Major ]5ell, of Bell Farm (about one and a half
miles off), had come to invite us all to breakfast; and it
was settled that we should afterwards drive straight on
to Fort Qu'Appelle, twenty miles farther, and reuuiin

I !

i:l

' I I! Ji

1^ 1 i jl

I'-

1 ^

, I

1^'

'JUS JJl'I'J AM) LMiOVll IX THE FAli, FAR WEST.

tlicro a nij^lit. AV'e set off lu^cordinj^ly in two vcliicli's,
aiul iK'Torc Iji-cakfast went round the fann-buildini^s,
cVc. Tliis land holonj^^s to a Company, and ^Fajor
Hell is tlio nianaL^'cr. Tlicy took up 5(5, (MM) acn-s ol'
(;pc'n prairie, and conmicnccd ojx'rations only a ycaraii^i).
Major Hell lias already a j^ood dwellini^-liouse and out-
buildin«^s erected, an avenue of trees planted, and a
lar^o stock of implements ready to hand. It is his
intention to break up 7, (MM) acres durin*^ the present
year. We saw a held ol" \,'2()() acres, two miles lon<^,
beinjj^ plouj^hed, the team havinjjf to traverse that
distance before turnin<^. Two trips are made in the
mornin<r and two in the oveninti^ (feedinjjj-tiine comin<r
between), so that the horses have to make <,pood time in
order to reach the i'eedin<jf-trough at the proper hour.
They plough seventy acres a day, using no steam
power, only horses, of which Major Jkdl must keep a
great many, for we saw a stabie for waggon-horses built
to hold no less than 105; and the loft was large
enough to contain 100 tons of hay. The stable was
round, and substantially built of stone. We noticed
one 1,200-acre field of wheat. We were told ajrain
here that harvest would commence towards the end of
August.

Major Bell had farmed at one time in Minnesota,
but said he preferred the North-West. In drawing a
comparison between the land here and that in the lied

les,
s *.l'

a<r().
Ollt-

iid St
s bis
esent

that
n the
oming
ime in
lOur.
steam
:eep a
built
lar<jje
e was
loticed
again
end of

lesota,
king a
he lied

TlfH X( ) n Til. 1 VEH T TE fl U I TO It Y.

2on

IJivor Vjillcy, In* said that tlu' latter was i\\o Ix'st in
Cimada, and tlu' soil there much (h'eper and newer than
hero, and eapabic til' Ixmul;' worked tor a long tiin<'
without inanui'i; ; i)ut the croj)s there were about three
weeks Ix'hind those in tills part ol' the North- West
{•U'2 miles west ol" VVinnipci^), tiiough here the soil was
much older and harder, and eould only be worked lor
a limited time without artilieial assistance. As far as
I could judL>-e, i ])reierred the Ived iiiver soil to this ; and
besides, later in the day, I was j^iven to understand
that there is a gredt dilliculty in obtaining a good
supply of water at Hell Farm, and tliat in point of faet
a well has been sunk to a *jrej;t depth there withont
any successful result.

At the time of our visit Mrs. liell did the honours
of a very good breakfast of eggs and bread-and-butter,
after which we set off in two waggons (one drawn by
mules, the other by horses), for Fort Qu'A))pelle; our
route being over the open prairie, and for the first live
or six miles perfectly flat, then gradually more undu-
lating, until eventually we came to a much more thickly-
wooded country, pai'tly covered with brushwood about
twelve feet hiyh. I should think it ouijht to be a
capital district for duck and prairie fowl, for there
seemed to be a great many small ponds about, and
ducks were to be seen on almost all of them.

We stopped to speak to a settler who had come into
o

•I

i:ii

lMO /,//■';•; .I.V/> LAJiOVR IN Tin: FAR, h'AU WEST.

null)

■■[■
i

]1 !;

tlu'sc pjirls :i year or two a^o I'roin Ontario. II(^ told
us tliat \\v was very lia|)])y, and prd'crrcd the Nortli-
AVt'st tt) his old quarters; and tliat th(>u^-h tlie six
montlis' winter was hmi;', and th(>re was uot niucli to
do tlu'U besides cuttin<j^ wood and leediui;- the cattle,
he did not nuieh mind that, for it was better for "the
boys " here than in Ontario, and they themselves
prei'erred it.

Four miles farther on wo came in sii^ht of Fort
l()u'A]i]ielle, with its valley and lakes. Wo had a con-
siderable descent to make, for there was quite a fall in
the yround, and the valley was really very pretty.
Jielbre reach ini»' it wo saw a larij^e encampment of
Indians in the distance, who, we were told, were lied
Indians of the Creo tribe, and wo made up our minds
to endeavour to visit them in the course of the
afternoon.

tW(

side

be
the
broo
plac(

c'umi

^\ero
V

CHAPTER xrr.

A M () N (i T II K K K I) S K 1 N S.

Iiiiliaii Si'ttliTH -A ijimiim ( '.illiolic Mission - 'J in- ( 'n;(' liiilian Cimip -Siii'\iv,il
ot' CiucH 'iistoiiis A (/'iTciiumiuiis llr I pliim iinliiiii Music- -l)c)H' Sli'W
- Musical Aiu'oiMiiiiiiiiiriit to ;i S|)cccli -Iinliau liravcs ou llic i'xiasl —
Till! I'lik'-fiiccs idspond An i'lniharrassinj^ OllVr.

On our arrival at Fort (^u'ApjH'llc we went to a rraiiicil
house to see about rooms, tliou^'Ii wo liad cxptMjtcd
to have to put up witli a tent hotel. llowcvor, we
louiid a ])laco called Echo House, built ol" wood, and
about forty feet by twenty-one feet ; in which tlicrc
were upstairs four beds in one room, two rooms with
two beds each, and two sino-je-bedded rooms, while out-
side there was a tent with twelve cribs more. W^e had
a fair luncheon with the natives, all of whom seem to
be a very tidy lot — what are called "good settlers" of
the right stamp. There are a great many French haU-
breeds here, as indeed can be seen l)v the name of the
place. A considerable number of Indians were en-
camped in the valley, as well as ^n the hill, tlu*y
were all gorgeously painted.

We made a very interesting expedition in the after-
noon to a Roman Catholic IMission, which was estab-
o 2

^ihl

i \

1.1 ; (!

; ; i

'11

lirtl

' 1 '

i'l

<li.i

•-M2 LIFE AM) LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

lislu'd luM'o iibout oi<,''1itoon years ago ; having arranc^ed
our plans so as to visit the Indian camj) afterwards;
a Mr. ^Maedougali, whose acquaintance we had formed,
and vvlio was well known to tlie Indians, pronnsing to
precede us there, and to ask their ])erniission for us to
call. The Jionian Catholic Mission is situated six
miles to the east, on the border of the lake. Our party,
which, on our plans becoming known, had been joined
l)v other travellers, was well received by the priest, who
is a Frenchman (born between Marseilles and Lyons).
He has been here about ten years, and is assisted in
his duties b}' two othe priests, tlie one a German, the
other English ; but they were out when we called. The
Mission was originally started for the French Iloman
Catholic half-bi-eeds, a good many of whom are settled
in this neiirhbourhood.

The room into wliich we were shown in the Mission
house was rather stuffy and diiij ; it contained eleven
t'hairs with hide-string bottoms, a table, form, stove,
and clock, maps of the North- West Territory and of
the Canadian Pacific Hailway, and three or four
pictures — one of which represented the present Pope.
The porch to the house was covered with hops ; and the
garden, which reached down to the border of the lake,
was ffav with flowers, and well stocked with tomatoes,
French beans, Indian corn, ])otatoes, parsnips, and
vegetable marrow, all looking in very good condition.

vds ;

110(1,

ir to
IS to

six
iirty.
oinetl
, who
^ons).
:ed in
,11, the

The

Ionian

ttled

jssion

eleven
stove,

and of
four
Pope,
ind tlie

lie lake,
matoes,
|s, and
idition.

AMONG THE REDSKINS.

!l:i

Tlie clmrcli is built of wood and stucco, the same as
the Mission house, and, like it, is tliatched with
straw; it stands a little to the east of the house,
and is now being enlarged. The belfry is de-
tached, and is a kind of frame-work erection at the
west end of the chapel, containing two bells whi(;h
swing in the open. The grave-yard is on the eastern
side, and, as regards grass, is badly kept ; but each grave
was marked by one or more crosses, and over many
of them was placed an ornamental box, making a kind
of little house. Sometimes a little air-s})aee is left
between tlie to]) and bottom of the grave to allow
" the spirit " room to pass through. In these* cemeteries
the Indians frequently place over the head of the grave
a couple of sticks and a receptacle of some kind, in
which the friends of the departed wlien they come to
the grave, put a little tobacco, bit of tobacco pipe or
some similar object, in order to propitiate the "spirit"
when it visits the grave. There were several out-
buildings behind the Mission house, and also one or two
cottages ; the chimneys in every case were of metal ; the
whole had a very attractive, though rather primitive
appearance, and reflects credit on the Iloman Catholics.
I think the Church of England ought to have an eve
to this district as well, for there are Presbyterians,
cVc, also in this neighbourhood. The priest seemed
delighted to see so ne strangers, for he said the Indians

Si':

'-\ ^!

S !

i'l

.\\\

214 LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

M:' i?

'.M

spoke of notliiny- but their horses and cattle when they
came to see him. Our party consisted of about twenty
altogether, each of whom was introduced to him
individually.

On taking our leave we drove on to the Cree
Indian camp, regaining the open prairie by a track up
the side of the valley, so steep that in England one
would have thought it quite impassable ; from the
summit we had a beautiful view of the valley and its
three lakes. At some distance from the camp we were
introduced to a half-breed Indian, who undertook to
l)e our interpreter. The camp, containing about a
hundred vngwams or more, was on a fiat elevation; and,
as we drove past, every tent produced a number of
j)eering faces, painted red, or yellow and red, the hair-
partings being generally of the latter colour. About
400 Crees were assembled here, for there had been a
great function the previous week, which the different
neighbouring chiefs and their tribes had come to attend ;
one ceremony had been to admit five warriors as
" braves." These unfortunates have to go through vari-
ous ordeals, one of which is to have a stick run through
the flesh of the chest, and another to be strung up by
the skin of the shoulders for an hour and a half, during
which latter operation we heard one of the Indians had
fainted twice.

When we approached the large wigwam we saw

AmxG rup ij^asTO-,,

vvLie in tor a re«n] -ir <' .^^
«^amn,ecl wit). UuXHn. n , 'T"""'^^ " "'« tent was

r -•"> «.e . J:: : J ■^^;;"'". - t,.e .^^^^^^^

«''«" probably nover seP "'''* ^^"'^ ""« >vo

Wget. Tbe tent i^^, f '"T" ■^"^" --'-'y "ev..
-i"- broad, .ade '1 : T'""* ^"'•*^ ^-' 'o". b,

" g.-eat dainty. We T ''"''"' "'"■^■'' ''^ «'«"Sl.t
"« to tbe assembled chiof 7 "*™^' ^^''" "'foJuccd

"" '-0""^. Their names we^ :- "^'^ °' '"""'•^

CliiefCotd,

Keechehona, '•'\J^''' ^«^«t' from Pell^.

ir " -^'le Jr^lajn

p "7"P<"""S. .. Little B1.4 B,,,. " '^"'-^l-l*"" I--.t«. •

KawaJfatoos,

;>
>)
>>

ToiicJiwood HiJl„.

Poor ALui,

o-ons, and sin,^;. "^^1"::^^ f'^ *-'"^'>

"*«'-on,,andtbemusiese^ ""'"""'""
superior to that of the n,' "' '■"■>" '■^"■

'■■«"tre of the tent and w ^""^' "^"'^ ■'" «"-•

"t. «d was jomed in by some si.v or

I i

,>:M

.in

•l\r, LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

ton at a time, to the music of tlie band, tlie head-man
selecting tlie dancers. He was not a chief, but what
we should call master of the ceremonies ; he was an
old man, and wore nothing but a dirty-white blanket,
blanket-trousers and mocassins, nothing on above his
waist except a dirty white handkerchief tied in a band
round his head. He had several patches of paint in
streaks about his body and arms ; but lie was not
nearly so well dressed as some of the other Indians, for
some of the dresses were really handsome and of wonder-
fid colouring.

Finding that we were in for a regular " pow-wow,"
we took our seats on the ground and philosophically
resigned ourselves to do anything that might be re-
quired of us, in order that we might show our love for
our Indian fellow-subjects ; but all the same we
devoutly hoped that we might not be called upon
to taste the great Indian delicacy of dog-stew which
was simmering in the cauldron (and was the nastiest-
looking thing in the camp, which is saying a good
deal), or even to join in the pipe of peace, which we
imagined to be looming in the distance.

The following slight description of some of the
dresses will show how curious the scene was : — Chief
l*asquali wore a Jim Crow hat and feather, a leather
jacket trimmed with beads, red trousers made out of a
blanket, with black braid round the ankles (there bein

AMONG THE REDSKIXS.

217

good

being

a tear on one side, through wliich a large piece of thigh
was visible) ; a long piece of drapery hung from the
shoulders, with small ilat brass bells attached ; he wore
mocassins ; round his waist was a belt with lire bag
(to contain matches and tobacco) , his face was painted a
bright vermilion, his hair was long and black, he carried
a pipe in his hand, and on his breast hung a pair of
scissors and a looking-glass in a case ; — evidently a
present.

A few days later T was given a paper drawn by this
chief, showing everything he has received from the
Government ; it is really a great curiosity. Another
chief had a birds' fejither head-dress, fans of feathers,
silver rings on forefingers, and his face painted yellow
with dashes of vermilion. One old Indian chief was
not painted like the others, but was dressed in darkish
clothes, and wore a round black hat trimmed with wide
gold braid. He was a stranger, and came as a guest,
the representative of a tribe 300 miles away, and sat
out the whole performance with great stolidity. With
this exception, all had more or less coloured faces ; some
being painted bright vermilion down to the nose and
yellow ochre below it, which is quite sufficient to give
a hideous expression. Ear-rings were the general
ornaments ; the hair was mostly worn very long, and
in many cases plaited, but one or two had it cut so as
to make it stand up on end. Chief Pasfjuah made us

ii>

'■ i,

■!l;:

218 LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

f i

■\- i

I !•

!i spoccli, rcTTiarlvaLle for its apparent fliu'iicy ; in tliis
lie was followed hy a yo"ng warrior, during whose
oration the band struck in between each sentence, ^ivin^^
a single note on the " tom-tom " — a circular instrument
struck with a stick. I'he speech of this young warrior
was translated to us by our interpreter, and was an
account of the number of men he had killed. Mr.
McDougnll, who had arranged our interview, advised
that we should, before leaving, see how the Indians keep
a record of their fights, and of the number of their
victims. One tall Indian, whom we had noticed before,
was therefore selected ; he wore a large linen mantle,
and he showed us examples painted on it in yellow,
illustrating how he had killed eighteen Indians, each
drawing showing how the deed had been done.

After witnessing a great deal of dancing, singing,
and speech-uiaking, we thought it time to move ; so
Colonel Williams was advanced as our representative
to make a speech, which was duly translated to the
Indians b}'- our interpreter, and was as follows : —

" We 25ide-faces from the East are making a journey
to the Rocky Mountains, and we have come here to
inquire into your welfare. But although pale-faces,
we are the children of one mother, the Queen of Great
Britain, and we have come to see you, such valiant men,
who have fought such great battles. We are sorry
to hear that you are sometimes hungry, so we have

AMONG THE nEDSKTXS.

211)

bronglit you some tea and tuljacco, and some vermilion
with which to decorate your squaws ; and we will send
you some Hour and bacon on our return. We must
now wish you good-bye, and may the great Spirit
direct you and keep you in the right path."

After this followed a great deal of hand-shaking,
and then we took our departure from the Indian camp,
and returned to Fort QirA])pelle. Our first ])resent
to the Indians had C(msisted only of tea and tobacco,
and vermilion for painting themselves ; the bacon and
Hour were an after-thought. They, however, evidently
expected a handsome present, for they sent to ask if
they should bring a cart to fetch it ; so we made the
best of it, and answered in the aflirmative. These
gatherings only take phice occasionally, so it was most
fortunate for us that we shoukl have come across such
a sight during our trip to the North- West.

•in

'"1

I'iil

I I

■

1 1'^

f;i I'

si)

t i!

CHAPTER XII r.

PHAIUIK LAM) IN TIIK NORTH-WKST.

The T()U(h\vo(Ml (in'Apprlld (lolonisation C()ini);iiiy— liollinu; I'niirio— Flat
Prairie— A Ki.sky Drive— A Sioux Settleiiiunt — A Keil-si<in on tlie Hunt
"Milliiuis of M()S(|iiit<)eH" — Atiiong the Settlers — Their llofiuests —
Winter in the Norlli-West — A Nitsty Accident.

I WAS up the next day at 5.30 a.m., and went
down to the river for a bathe ; for our hotel accom-
modation did not include wash-hand basins, or indeed
lookin<j^-g]asses either, except on a limited scale outside
the dining'-room. We were read}'' for a start about
7.15 a.m., while the cribs in the tent adjoining the
"framed house" still contained the majority of their
occupants fast asleep ; this, however, may be because
it was Sunda}-- mornin^^, and need not necessarily be the
every-day habits of the people at Qu'Appelle. Colonel
AVilliams and I were allotted a "Buck-board" drawn
by a pair of fast mules ; the vehicle seemed all wheels,
and no more body than just sufficient to hold a seat
for two and a buffalo-robe, and we must have been a
^picturesque turn-out, all wheels and bufi'alo-robe. We
had to sit upon the latter, so as to avoid the sharp
angles of the seat ; although buck-boards are excellent
conveyances for the open prairie, they must be difficult

iliarp
jlleut
Hcult

rit.UUlE LAXD 7.V THE XORTILWEST.

221

to turn, except in a space at least a mile or two srpiare,
as there is no turn at all in tlu^ front wheels. Mr.
IJath was in front of us on another buck-hoard, accom-
panied by the emi^^n'ation aL,^;nt, who was also our i^uide ;
and Victor Williams followed us on a Montana pony.
Our object in niakin<r this outini^ to-day, was to see a
tract of land beh)n<^in<^ to a company called the Touch-
wood (^u'Appellc Colonisation Company, in which
Colonel Williams was interested as a Director; it em-
braces six townships. Under such good ausj)ices 1
expected to learn a <^ood deal from my drive, not only
from what I could notice myself as rei,''ards the land,
but also by ascertaininjj^ the intentions of the Company
m respect to filling up the country.

AVe reached the nearest point of the Company's
land, after a six miles' drive through a charmingly
wooded country; brushwood, low poplars, and birch-
trees giving the effect of continuous plantations. There
were large open glades here and there of sulHcient size
to locate a man and give him his holding, without the
necessity of clearing the ground first ; and he would
be secure of shelter ai d firing, both matters of im-
portance in a climate like this. The open space was
all grass, so that in cultivating the soil one would only
have to select what should be converted into arable, and
leave the rest as permanent pasture ; thus in coming
here an almost ready-made farm would be found at

{ < i

'-'2-j I.IFI-: AMI i.MiDri! IX Tin: I'.in. far wkst.

, I.

onco, without tln' l)iUviioss (»f tlic open prairie. Of
course tlu'sc lauds would he luost suital)k» lor a mixed
I'arui, vvliilt! the prairie is hest tor L,n'aiu ouly. The
trees are j^-eneraliy small — ])robably owiu;jj to prairie
liros of lornier tlays — but they are very pleasant to
the eye, as are also the numerous ponds and tarns
scattered about, which would be very usei'ul lor farminLf
and houseliold ])urposes ; but we were told that wells
are easily sunk here, and that water is plentiful. The
description I have given holds i,^ood lor what I saw
of the first part ol' the Company's lands ; and, as llir
as I could judge, .1 should say that the soil was

good.

AVe next came to open rolling prairie, well suited to
sniall settlers; for, on land like this, small farming can
bo more easily managed than on the absolutely flat
plains, and the drainage is naturally better. After this
we passed over a part which will, 1 should think,
remain in its present state for many years to come ;
poor hungry soil, which will be best left alone us a
playground for the gophers ; but still, even here there
were one or two tarns. Then we reached the great
prairie itself. There can be no doubt, from what
Colonel Williams and the agent (Clarke) said, that this
is the best land of all. It may be described as " bound-
but grass, grass, grass, stretchiuir
excel

ess " prairie ; nothing

away to the horizon, and quite Hat, except that in the

n i«

rRAlUIi: LAS I) IS THE NOllTll-WEST.

i:j3

fur, far distauco wo cuuM just sco the Toucliwood
Hills.

The pniirit' llowers wuiv hcaiitirul here, ('spcciiilly
tho rosos, which <^row to u hci^'ht of t>iily ahoiit six
inches from '^ho ground, and are much like our doj^*-
roses in appoaitMice, l)ut with more variety of colour;
indeed, it seemed as if no two l)lossoms were alike.
Here we came acros^; a patch of acres and acres of wild
strawl)erries; and, sittinj.^ down on the prairie, we could
gather as many as we could eat within arm's ri'ach.
We might easily have been lost on resuming our drive,
had it not been for the exceUent knowledi^t^ our <!'uide
possessed of tlir locality; for all was prairie in every
direction, and I should i^ot have had an idea which
way to go. Jiut he soon discovered our whereabouts by
looking at the sun, and finding a section mark, i.e., an
iron rod driven into a heap of soil, and marked with
the points of the compass and the number of the sec-
tion. The company's propert}' ended with the termina-
tion of the good land ; and, after driving through one or
two open swamps, we came upon rather a rolling and
stony district, the boulders of wliicli are .i peculiarity,
being generally only on the surface, and seldom inter-
ferinijr with the subsoil.

We soon reached the wooded country again, and
found ourselves on a high blutf, live miles from
Qu'Appelle, and overlooking its three lakes, which are

ifff

•J_M LIFE AM) LMIOVU IX TUK FAU, FAR WFST.

comuM'tcd by tlie river of tlio same nanio. I)('sc'(Mulin<j^
into the vall(>y, we returned to (^u'Apjx'lle, \vlii(!lj we
reached al)out four o'ehx'k ; iuivin^* liad a. nine liours*
outin;^, and traversed from forty-live to lil'ty niih's of
eountrv. ^o jJrive conUl hav«' L;-iven one a l)etter idea
of tlie ])rairi(>s of tlio North West, for it liad enil)raced
tlie three dillerent kinds of prairie, and showed us botli
ilfood and indilVerent lands. We liad folh)wed first the
i^uAppeih' and Prince l\oad, which is a very fair trail,
and then had turned ol!' across the open prairie, witli
no road or ])ath to direct us.

The L!^«)pher holes were at times a i>Teat nuisance, as
they are lar^'e and deep (>noun'h to break a horse's leg
were he to step into one ; and it seemed wonderful to
me tlu^t no accident occurred, as we went full tilt across
the ])rairie, shaving these holes (a})])arently) b}-^ the
merest chance. One of our mules nearly went head-
over-heels once, but that was all ; and the horse in the
other buck-board was a wonderful aninud for steei'ing
clear of mishaps. Sometimes we had to rush at declivi-
ties in the open prairie, and I was surpris(>d that the
pace did not entail an upset, ibr the ground was in
places very rough (partly on account of the gopher
holes) ; but the large Avheels of the buck-board
smoothed over many dil^culties. Driving through the
swamps was the smoothest and easiest part of our
journey ; and, after half-an-hour's bumping, was a real

L. . -»- ■ • ■

fill to
icross
' llio
load-
11 the

clivi-
it the
vas in
opher
•board
ill the
f our
a real

VnMUlE LAM) IN Till: NORTILWESr.

2Jr,

comfort and relief. The motion was alto<;etlier much
rouL,dier and more tiring- than T liud anticipated, and I
think that both Colonel Williams and I had had (juite
enoui^h of it on returning to Qu'Appclle after our fifty
miles' drive.

The horse belonging to the buck-board was unshod;
the man told us tluit he had had no time to see to it,
and that tlu- horse did just as well without shoes ;
which for this sort of drive ai)i)eared to be really the
case. The hills we went up and down were quite a
new experience to me, as was also the sha])e of the
roads (when we came across any) ; for they are generally
on a slant, and oiil- has to sit sideways to keep one's
seat at all. The Indian tracks never attempt a zig-zag,
but go straight up and down any hill they come across.
We passed a Sioux Indian settlement on our way back ;
they having sought refuge in Canada, from the United
States, some years ago (about ISO.^]. They are a finer
body of men than the Crees, and do not use so much
])aint. The latter were entertaining them at their
camp, and we heard the sounds of the music from a
distance. The Sioux are disposed to take to agricul-
ture, and the Canadian Government gives them imple-
ments, &:c., and supplies a man to teach them
farming.

We saw a great number of ducks to-day. The best

plan of getting at tliein would be to take a buck-board,
p

I )

■ i

■1-26 LIFE AXJJ LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

and drive about from one tarn to anotlier. We sur-
prised an Tndia.i out liuntin^^. He was just on the run
to fetch his i^nin, and we supposed by his manner after-
wards tliat he was keepings his eye on a badger. Tliere
are a (juantity of prairie fowl and plovers in tliis
country, but the hitter are too tame to i^ive any sport.
On our way home we were much troubled, in tlie sliady
])laces beside the lake, by the attacks of millions of
niosijuitoes. I am i^-lad to say they are not fond of eat-
ing- me, but they appeared to enjoy Colonel Williams
immensely.

The formation of the sides of Qu'Appelle valley was
very striking on our return journey; whether smoothed
oil', rounded, or pointed, the traces of the action of
water are very noticeable ; and they have the exact
appearance of having been left high and dry by the
water, whicli had washed them into shape before taking
its final departure.

I am informed that about one hundred settlers are
already located on the lands we visited to-day, and that
it is expected that the whole district will soon be filled
up. Any one coming to settle here would only have to
consult his own wishes, for if one description of land did
not suit him, there are others to choose from. North of
the (Qu'Appelle valley is a district well known in the
North-West, and to which attention is now being
especially directed, as it is included in the area of 200

-T-^.- - r- ~

n^l

riiAIRIE LAND IN THE NORTH-WEST.

o.»-

'I tl

by 100 miles known as containing the best wheat lands
in the country.

We stopped to speak to some of the settlers we
passed, who all seemed contented and happy, and liad
no complaint to make. One of them was anxious that
we should send him a spaniel dog, another wanted a
post-office, and a third a church and school — all reason-
able requests ; and not one of them eomphiined of tlie
land, or of his prospects. Indeed, up to the present, 1
have never heard any com})laint from a settler, the
nearest approach to it being that they all say the
winters are very long; but apparently they think feed-
ing cattle and cutting wood sufficient occupation for
that time, and none wish to return to cheir previous
Canadian homes. From the time the winter sets in in
the North-West you never get your feet wet ; the
snow is so crisp and hard, and no damp ever penetrates,
so that the people wear only mocassins. No rain falls
in winter, only snow occasionally ; but a snow-blizzard
must be an uncomfortable thing. The thermometer is
sometimes forty degrees below zero ; but on account of
the dryness of the atmosphere, the cold is not felt so
much as might be imagined, and settlers say they
prefer this climate to that of Ontario or Quebec.
Nevertheless, I must say that I consider the long six or
seven months' winter must be a great drawback.

On our return to Fort Qu'Appelle, we found that
p 2

! 'M

:li:

' 4

1 r

*■

228 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

Mr. Marsh, M.P. for Portage la Prairie (who had
accompanied our party during a good part of our
journey), had met witli a nasty accident ; but, happily,
attended with no serious results. The wheels of his
buggy having got locked in coming down a hill, the
vehicle was overturned, occupant and all. Mr. Marsh
fortunately escaped unhurt, but the buggy was smashed
to pieces.

ttS

CHAPTEll XIV.

REGINA AND MOOSEJAW.

The JIiisk-Rat — Aftor-Glow — Wholesale Interviewing — Railway Travelling in
the North-West — Hcgina — The Canadian Mounted Polico — A House on
Wheels— The "Noble Savage" Found at Last— A Taste of Sulphur—
Moosejaw — Its Future — The Crecs— A jNIassacre of Mosquitoes — Con-

flicting Rumours.

We left Fort Qu'Appelle at C.30 p.m. for Qii'Appelle
Station (alias Troy), eighteen miles distant, intending
to join a freight train there at 9.35 p.m. On the road
we saw a fox, a badger, and a musk-rat, and of course
plenty of ducks, &c. The musk-rat is a sulky sort of
an animal. He lives in solitude in the middle of a
tarn, and builds his house there of rushes, &c., which
he collects from its edges. We accomplished our
journey satisfactorily, and enjoyed the sight of a most
])eautiful sunset on the way. When the sun had sunk
behind the distant prairie, the after-glow was wonder-
fully fine. We arrived at the railway-station just after
the freight train had come in, and immediately had all
the officials, newspaper reporters, &c., on board the car
to interview us, to each of whom we were of course
introduced. After all the bumping we had gone
through to-day on our sixty-eight mile drive (includ-
ing the drive to the railway station), it was such a

if 3

lii

< 1

I; i

■'ijj,

2:50 UFE AM) LABOUR IN THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

( ' '

'. h

relief to get into the comfortablo Midland of Ciinuda
car, and a .^till <^n.ater one to have "^ good supper on
hoard before going to bed. I should say that travelling
in an official car is at present the only way to see the
North- West thoroughly and comfortably; for one is
thus quite iude])endent of hotel accommodation, and
also of the regular passenger trains, — of which there is
only one each way in the twenty-four hours, so that if
one depended on them, much time would be lost in
getting from place to place, or else one would have to
miss a great deal that was worth seeing. As it is, we
can get our car attached to any of the freight trains,
and thus suit our own convenience, and see all there is
to be seen. This evening wo were to be taken on as far
as Kegina, and were due there about midnight.

Accordingly, we reached our destination some time
in the course of the night, and on waking in the morn-
ing found that our car had been located on a siding.
This place is the new capital of the North-West
Territory ; the Government Offices, Government House,
and the new barracks for the mounted police are all
here. A yenv ago there was not a house, or even the
sign of one, in the place, but now Regina already
possesses one broad street, and there is a plentiful
supply of hotels; saloons, however, are conspicuous by
their absence, no intoxicating liquors being allowed in
the North-West. The town is situated on an absolutely

!"","r.'

nEGiXA AXD ymosijjAn'.

■2)]

flat plain, and the siirronn(Hn<^ lands are not i^ood ;
tlicre is a i^rcat depth of clay, but very little loamy soil
on the surface. It is said that the Lieutenant-Ciovernor
(Dewdney) was instrumental in <^ettin^ Ue_<^ina settled
here. Although some houses are built, the city did
not impress me as bein<^ a happy and prosperous place ;
nor indeed did it seem to me to hold out much promise
of attaining to any great size or prosperity in the
future. Grass does not <:ri*ovv well in the neiiifhbour-
hood, and farmers say that it is doubtful how Far other
crops will succeed. But the great drawback is the
scarcity of water; at first there was none, but one
well 100 feet deep has lately been dug, and water
successfully found ; at the station, however, they hav(^
already (July 23rd, 1S83) sunk to a depth of 200 feet
without any good result. While so many other more
desirable sites can be obtained, I cannot see the object
of planting the capital here to contend with such a
serious drawback as this.

We had breakfast at the Commercial Hotel ; it
proved to be a very poor repast, and made us value the
proximity of our car and its resources all the more.
Before breakfast I had, as usual, telegraphed to Clive ;
for ever since we started from Winnipeg I had done my
best to keep him aware of our movements, in order that
he might catch us up if possible. Our North- West trip
had been, and promised still to continue to be, so much

■I ,9; 1,

1 ^S

i ; HI

, I

i. <

232 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAIt, FAR WEST.

more intcrostinj^ tlian T had expected, that T was really
extremely sorry tliat he should liave missed seeini; it,
all on account of this Kootenay expedition, which, as wo
learned afterwards, never came off. I therefore sent two
or three teh'<rrams every day, hopin<^ that they miij^ht
lind him on his arrival at Winnipeg, where he tele-
i^j-raphed that he would follow me.

After hreakfast we went " in a body " to call upon
Mr. Nicholas Flood-Davin, now the editor of the
llcfjinn Leader, but formerly an Irish barrister. We
were duly interviewed, and had to give an account of
our travels ; and I, personally, had also to supply some
information for the benefit of the public. Next we
])rocured two buggies, and went (again in a body) to
pay a formal call upon Lieutenant-Governor Dewdney,
and found him and Mrs. Dewdney both at home. They
had come here from British Columbia, and were
well acquainted with the Cornwalls. Mrs. Dewdney
lamented the absence of the beautiful timber of British
Columbia, and said she much preferred her former home
there, at which I am not at all surprised.

We subsequently drove on to the barracks of the
Canadian mounted police, two miles to the west of
liegiua, where we formed the acquaintance of Colonel
Herchmer, who was in command. He is an English-
man by birth, but has been out here for the last twenty
years, and has married a Canadian. This police force

BEGIN A AND MOOSE JAW.

233

consists altogetlier of 500 men, soparatotl into five
divisions, to eacli of which three officers are attached.
They occupy tlie follovvin<^ stations: Ke^ina, McLcod,
Dattleford, Calgary, and Moosomiu ; from each of these
stations small detachments are sent out, in parties of
al)out four together, to such places as Fort Qu'Appellc,
&c. Among the force I met a connection of an English
friend of mine. At the time of our visit there were
five prisoners in the lock-up, all Indians, three of whom
were in custody for murder, and one for theft, the other
being a lunatic. We were accosted on our return to
Regina by the livery stable keeper, who did not approve
of the way in which we had loaded his "rigs."

We noticed a house being moved, whicii operation
is accomplished thus : a pole is placed in a windlass,
a rope attached and united to a kind of staging under
the house, and then the whole thing slides along
together. The last house I saw being moved was in
Victoria (British Columbia), but that was a much
larger one, and was, besides, two storeys high. AVe
left Eegina (whicli is 35G miles from Winnipeg) about
4 p.m. for Moosejaw, attached to a freight train ; and,
after passing through a clayey-looking country without
a single tree or shrub visible the whole way, we reached
our destination about 7 p.m.

Just before arriving, we noticed an Indian encamp-
ment close outside the town ; and as we stopped at the

iv '

II,

•j;m fji'i'i AM) r.Annrn ix the fau, far west.

station an Indian, wlio ])rov('(l to bo Pie-pot, the cliicr
of this division of the Cree tribe, stepped across tlie
line. \Ve were niueh struck witli bis a])pearance, for
lie was very tall, and a fine, bold-lookinL; fellow, lie
wore a fur cap and mantle, and carried a feather fan
in his hand. Wo all shook hands with him, and then
invited him into our car, where one of our party ^ave
him a ciij^ar. I shall never for^r(.t his eyo of incpiiry
while the ciij^ar was bcniL,' lit for him l)y means of a
lucifer match ; tho sul])hur was not quite burnt out,
so old Pie-pot at first tasted it instead of tho tobacco,
a;id he evidently wondered for a moment whether a
joke was not bein*^ ])layed on him, but of course he
soon got to the tobacco, and then he was all ri«^ht
a^-ain directly. Pie-pot «^Mined his name thron<]fh
sending the Governor a jn'osent of a pie in a pot. He
was evidently a })opular Indian, though it was saiil
that ho knew how to make a bargain as well as any one.
We heard that he was going to have a " pow-wow "
that evening, and made up our minds to attend it ; but
unfortunately it did not come off, owing to a slight
contrctvwpH. It appeared that a horse was missing in
the neighbourhood, and tho mounted police had seized
an animal from Pie-pot's camp on suspicion. When
the chief came to our car, he was on his way to give
evidence in the matter, to prove that the horse in
question was his own. We went to hear the trial;

i. >■. '■> '

IPI

ni:r.r.\A and .wtosKJAW.

::j5

the interpreter triinsliited wlwit I'ie-pot had to say ;
it was (|uit(! an impressive sii^Mit, for the Indian was
difrtiilied enonj^Hi for anytliinj^-, wliile, with o/n- ciiiar
in his mouth and witii uphfted hand, lie (h-cdarcd tin'
innocence of Ins tribe. I look upon liim as bein^-
certainly tlu' most su])erior chief I liavc as yet seen.

It is easy enou<^li to Coreteil that Moosejaw will
eventually become a very thriving |)lace. Ijust October
there was scarcely a house here, now there is a well-
laid-out street, with ^ood shops, and a nice hotel or
two; the city is about double the si/e ol" Ite^ina, with
from about vSOO to 1,000 inhabitants. I cannot help
thinkin«( that either this place or Fort (2u'Aj)j)i'lle
should have been made the capital of the North -West ;
here there would have been the advanta«^e of the
proximity of the railroad (and of the presence of
mosquitoes), but Fort Qu'Appelle always has been, and
still is, the treaty ground of the Indians.

After tea we went to the station, where we met
Mr. Scarth, the Mana«^ing Director of the Canada
North-West Laud Comj)any, who was just going east;
and then we walked on to the Cree Indians' camp.
This division of the tribe seemed to be far superior to
those we had seen at Fort Qu'A])])elle, they had better
tents, and were better dressed — es])ecially the children,
some of whom had beads worked into their clothes in
quite an ornamental fashion ; and we noticed some tiny

' i

Br;
' 11

I 'I

2;?»; /,//••/■; axd lAiutvii in tiii: fau. far west.

little cliildrcu wearing' y;ol(l and silver r in i^s and bracelets.
The women were l>iis} niakin;jf round Hat cakes, while
the men were mostly lyiiii; about outsi«h' the tents
doini,'' nothinL,^ Naturally, Pie-pot's tent was the
Iari,^est ; it was indeed (|uite a lar<jfe-si/ed one, and made
of skins instead of canvas; on the outside were drawin^^s
(»!' wild animals, the entrance was simply a round hole
with just room enouj;'h to <^'o throu^^'h. J*ie-pot's wife
was sittinuf outside with one of her children.

We had a loni,'' walk round the camp, and all the
Indiijns seemed j^'lad to see us, tlu' women heini^
particularly pleased when we noticed the children. One
woman we saw tenderly fondlin<^ a sick child, and j^'ivinj.^
it medicine, half of which, however, she drank herself,
skiving the child (a bi<»' girl) the remainder. We were
very reluctant to leave the camp, but were oblij^'ed to
do so, in order to be in time to proceed on our journey,
for our car was to be attached to the 9.30 p.m. freight
train. On our way back we met Chief Pie-pot, return-
ing to the camp with three or four of his head-men,
and saw from his manner that the horse business had
been settled to his satisfaction.

The mosquitoes of Moosejaw are worthy of a
special note, for we have never been so much troubled
by them before ; and although I am comparatively
proof against them, I was bitten enough this evenin

to make me remember them for a long time. The last

IlEaiXA AND .VOOSE.TAW.

I saw of tlu» occupants of t\u} car l)cft)rc i^oiiiL; to hcd,
was a ^'cncral attack on these tornicntinL,' insects with
all the availal)le slippers, iVc, so as to clear the ground
for the ni<^ht.

We left Moosejaw in due course, attached to the
rrei«^ht-train, intending to travel all nii;-hi. Hefore
startini;, however, E sent more telegrams, in the hope of
lieariu",^ soniethint^ ahout (Mivc, or at least of lettinj^
him know where we could he found. I am very sorry
indeed that he has missed all that we have seen, espe-
cially as rejjfards the Indians, for in a few more years
such sights wdl bo of the past.

One word more about the Crocs and Pie-pot before
bidding him adieu. His stay at Moosojaw was only a
passing one, for he was on the track to Fort Qu'A})pelle,
but with what exact object no one seemed quite to kn'»\v.
At any rate there was a groat diversity of opinion,
some saying that he was going to seek terms with the
Governor, and make a treaty ; others that he was only
going there to receive the treaty stipulations or bounty,
for each Indian in treaty with the Canadian Govern-
ment receives a grant of six dollars a year, blankets, cV'c.
Another account said that the Creos were journo3'ing
east to be placed on a Government Kosorvation ; and,
lastly, I was told that they had been going to Fort
Qu'Appelle to meet the other divisions of their tribe
now encamped there, but that they had been stopped

(

i I

7:-W- y^'^fX'^^-

•j:is /,//••/•; .IA7) LMmri! /.v tun I'au, far wh'sr

licrc l)v tl»»' news tluit sinaIl-]K)x luul ln'okcn out in the
Cvoo (';mi|) at (^u'ApjH'lIc. This was a clu'crful idea I'or
us. wlio had s«) ivccutly attended ji pow-wow there;
l>ut we were at all events in a position to eontrailict
this rumour as heinjjc untrue.

ClIAI'TKlt XV.

MI.DICIM", II \T AND I'll I UTKIINTII SIDINC.

" ' Mil \Vi vis' l.iikiH'' The S|pi;ii' ( ir.i.ss SiiiniH" hm tln' I'r.iin'c-Swirt ruriciit

i'"rii/.i'n Siili-siiil Miiplf ('rt'i'k i''ivi' Milrs Witliont :in Mii^^ini' -

Mrilicinr lliil AiioMii'i' lliiiKl-sliakiiii; Ant i-l>i<|iiiii' I .m w in llie Nortli-

W't'sl Across S;iskiitrlic\viin itiver A V'i^-iiinii> li';iilwity ( 'onf nutor -

'I'liirti'i'iitli Siiliiii/ 'I'lic ( >|iiii j'r.iirir At^iii ulliiir in tin- Nurtli-Wi'st.

TiiK follovvinc^ ni()rnin<( (.Inly '21) \ jivvokc; very
curly (iit 1. ji.in.), iind found that we had hoth the car
windows open; all the same it was not cold, nothin<^ to
])e compared to what it was three days a<(o at Winni-
jx'L,^. We W(>re just ])assin<^ the"()ld Wives' Lakes,"
a chain of ilat lakes with little or no rising <;ronnd

1 t^

rouri

\t\

leni.

In several of them the wat^r

'.tM'liu;*

()

be recedinj^, leavin<^ a d)y beach tor the formation of
new land. On all sides there was a ])lentiful suppl^^ of
young wild duck. One lake looked a jjarticularly at-
tractive resort for them, havinj^ a (piantity of low
rushes near it, not too close to^^ether. The grass about
" ( )ld Wives* Lakes'' was much browner and shorter
than any I had noticed before. Here also I saw a
great crop of spear-grass (a formidable enemy to
sheep) ; the first I had seen, but 1 frequently observed it

1 I

\'4\

t# LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FATt, FAR WEST.

afterwards in different places, though it is by no means
permanently established throughout the country. There
are very few sheep in the whole of the North-West
Territory, and I am told this is in a great measure
owing to the presence of this spear-grass, which un-
doubtedly works havoc among them, penetrating
through the wool into the flesh. Whether it actually
kills sheep I cannot say, but it is obvious that
it must prevent their thriving. However, the fact
remains that I saw no sheep in this part of
Canada, and though of course there would be the
expense of housing and feeding them through the long
winters, I cannot help thinking that they have hardly
been sufficiently tried. I can quite understand their
not answering in the West, where bunch-grass would be
their staple food, because they eat down the keep so
closely that they destroy this grass altogether ; but
here, even supposing the spear-grass does kill them,
there must be districts which are free from it; and,
besides, there is no reason why it should not be cut
when young, and the feeding ground thus cut enclosed
for the sheep, to whom the grass would then be ren-
dered harmless.

The sunrise this morning was a charming sight. I
quite think that the sunrises and sunsets on the prairie
are well worthy of all the admiration they have excited,
and of all the eloquent descriptions and word-paintings

MEDICINE HAT AND THIRTEENTH SIDING.

2 a

by which people have endeavoured to convey some idea
of their beauty. The scenery this mornin<^ was so
varied that it was difficult to believe that we were cross-
ing the great North-Western Territory. There were
lakes, plateaux, and rolling mountains. The latter
certainly were small, but they somehow gave one the
impression of being the tops of high hills cut off short,
and put down Hat on the plain. We saw some very
distinct buffalo trails. These are like narrow footpaths
sunk deep into the ground, for as buffaloes always
travel in single file, they leave a very clearly-defined
track. There were many skulls and bones of these
animals lying about; but, alas ! there are scarcely any
living ones now to be seen, for the race is nearly
extinct. The soil was now decidedly poorer than
farther east. It was about 7 a.m. when we reached
Swift Current, where we halted for breakfast. Here
we saw an Indian of the Assiniboine tribe, from an
encampment about a mile away. They, too, were
journeying east. We entered into "conversation" with
this fellow, but of course neither side understood the
other's meaning ; all the same wo got on very well,
with the help of a cigar. Some railway works were
in course of construction, and we noticed a larw
pit being dug, about twenty feet by ten feet in size, and
about eight feet deep. It appears that within the last
week (about 20th July), while excavating this hole, the

■' H

i i

^MMi

242 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

- »

::! ■ .1

men found soil frozen quite hard several feet below the
surface, so much so that tho;-^ had to remove it with
pick-nxes ; and this continued for some depth. Thus it
seems that at this period of the year the soil below the
surface still holds the winter's frost ; and as I saw the
marks of the pickaxes, I can vouch for the truth of this
story. It is possible that where the soil is looser the
frost disappears sooner. This underground surface of
frozen ground is believed to explain the wonderful
fertility of the soil ; as the frost, in gradually coming to
tlie surface during the summer months, creates a
moisture which, meeting the warmth from above, forms
a kind of natural liot-bed. This moisture counteracts
the scarcity of rain during the spring and summer, and
accounts for the grain being forced with such amazing
rapidity after the late sowing ; for, in point of fact, corn
crops are not usually sown until early in May, and yet
are harvested at the end of August. Whilst touching
on this subject, T may mention that a friend of mine
told me that 850 miles north of Winnipeg (in the
neighbourhood of Lake Winnipeg), the swamps, at a
depth of three feet below the surface, remain frozen all
the year round, so that the promoters of a railway now
in contemplation in that part, think that they will
have but little difficulty in running their line across
these swamps, on account of being able to reckon upon
this permanently hard foundation.

hmg
mine
the
at a
m all
now
will
Lcross
upon

MEDICINE UAT AND THIRTEENTH SIDING. 24l{

We next passed into a district with very bad lauds,
full of alkali. This was clearly visible on all sides, and
at one place what had been a shallow lake was now
dry, and the whole surface was perfectly white — this
being the remains of alkali. Farther on we came to a
part which almost resembled the American JJesert.
Our old acquaintance, the sago-bush, made its appear-
ance, and signs of a general drought were everywhere
noticeable. I inust add, however, that this is said to
have been one of tlie driest summers ever experienced in
the North- West. We stopped at a place called Maple
Creek, in order to see a man of the name of Marsh, and
gain some information from him as to the feasibility of
cutting across south from here to Livingstone, in order
to reach the Yellowstone Park. We found the distance
to be as follows : —

Maple Creek to Fort Benton 180 miles.

Beaton to Livingstone 258 „

438 miles.
Or,

Maple Cre-^k to Fort Benton 180 miles.

Benton to Helena 110 ,,

320 miles.

I do not think either of these ways will do for us,

there being hardly enough attraction en route by either

to repay one for the long wearisome drive. The Indian

whom we saw about it required one hundred and
Q 2

it' '

;■■■

, •

^i1

244 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

twenty dollars to go as far as Fort Benton only. If
we ufo to the Yellowstone Park at all, I fancy tlie best
|)lan will be to retuni to Winnipeg, and from there
Ijuck again, ria Glyndon and the Northern Pacific, as
far as Livingstone ; but all will depend on what we
decide upon when we meet Clive again. We received
a telegram at Maple Creek saying that he had reached
Winnipeg. He was not very well, but would follow us
to-morrow or the next day. We wired back our plans,
asking him to let us know what we should do to meet
him.

Continuing our journey, we passed through a great
deal of barren-looking land before reaching Medicine
Hat. Tt all seemed baked and burnt-up, with a large
amount of alkali in the soil, and looked altogether
almost like a desert.

At 1).30 p.m. we arrived at Medicine Hat, at the
tail end of a very long freight- train, laden almost
entirely with stores for the construction of the Canadian
I*aci(ic Railroad. We were three hours late ; but then
as the freight-trains are not supposed to keep any par-
ticular time, there was no cause for complaint. Be-
sides, these trains have been so very useful in helping
us on our trip, that it was just as well to be grateful
for what we could get. We ran the last five miles of
the grade without any engine.

Medicine Hat "City" is GGO miles west of Winni-

MEDICINE HAT AND TIIIUTEENTII SIDISG. 2k>

peg. It seemed to us somethiiif^ like an Eny;lish fair;
for though some of the stores were of wood, most »>("
the houses were simply tents. There were certainly
from 100 to 150 houses or tents already located; and it
is astonishing to think that as short a time ago as tlic
2Gth April, 1SS2, there was not a shop or a house to
be seen here. What the population really is I cannot
say, but Medicine Hat is now a " city," in the eyes
of its inhabitants at least, as the following notice will
show : —

" Notice.

Public Meeting

will l»e hold at

New Canadian PaciHc Railway Station,

Tuesday Evening, 2-Uli instant,

At 8 o'clock p.m.

To Discuss the High

Prices Placed ou

Town Lot.s

By the North-West Land Co.

Speeches by the Citizens.

llallv'l Uallv!

God Save th(! C^ueen."

. '■ ■

Medicine Hat already contains several hotels, e.y.,
The Saskatchewan, The Brunswick, The Lansdowne
(in honour of the new Governor-General), The Ameri-
can, the Canadian Pacific Eailroad, and The Commercial.
Some of these, indeed, are only tents ; but they bear the
name of hotel over their doors, though they make up
perhaps at the outside only half-a-dozen cribs. There

1l:'

' |W •

i lj,

^ yi

246 IJFI'J AM) LAllOUR IN TIIK FAR, FAR WEST.

uro also a numl/or of stores, six billiard-rooms or lialls,
a post-oflice, and one or two restaurants ; also

"A Parlour."
•« For Ico CroaniH." " For Col.l Drinks."

On til ' I venini!^ of our arrival we went throu<j^h
manv nnrouuotions at the ])ost-ofHce ; and I find that
ininii "v 1 4 \) after this ceremony there is a p^reat difference
made at once iii the manner in which one is treated.
There is always a orivut shakiiiijf of hands, invariably
aecoin])anied by the words, " (Had to see you, Mr.
liarneby ; olad to make your acquaintance, sir."

As 1 have already stated, the sale of stron<^ drin! s
is strictly jn'ohibited throuo-hout the N»)rth-We.st
Territory ; but laws of this kind are generally eluded
as much as possible, and all sorts of dod<^es are resorted
to for this end. It is also a fact that in consequence
of this anti-liquor law, many drinks are concocted
having the semblance of strength, but which I can
vouch for as being very nasty to the palate. An
incident resulting from this law amused me much.
1 never before heard of a man getting drunk from
imbibing Worcestershire sauce ; but I was told this
as a fact by the postmaster here this evening; and
the individual, when on his trial, had actually pleaded
this in his own defence.

We met a Major Hutton here, whom Colonel

MEDICI SK HAT AM) Til IHTICENTIl SIDINC.

It:

VVilliunis know; jind vvc wore imxious to ))orsuii(l(' li n
to como on vvitli ns, Jis In; was jiC(|UJiint('<l witl. t c
country. IJut, unfortunately, two days iv^n live out
of Ins six liorscs liad been stolon, leaving Inni willi
his wa«^'<,'ons l)y the side of tho road, in rather a
helpless condition. On askin*.' him vvhat cliances he
had of rec()V<'rin<,' them, he said, " None at all, for they
are over the border lon^ a<;o ; " and Iwi had made uj»
liis mind to ship his wa<,^^ons v, i the construction
train goin^ east, aiul so to r j'rn iiome. We heard
subsequently that two of thu ,"<^ises were afterwards
recovered for him l)v the Moused Police.

We were up at 5 a.m. tiiis mornin*^, thinkiuf^ we
should have a good many arrangements to make ])re-
vious to leaving Medicine Hat for t!ie west ; as the
regular trains do not go farther tlian this point at
present, and our only means of getting on west would
be to luive our car attached to a construction train, and
to be taken by it to the end of the track, — a distance of
about 140 miles. However, we luckily met Mr. Lang-
don (the American railway contractor who has under-
taken this portion of the line), and be said that his car
was also going to be attached to the construction train,
and that he would "see us through."

We made a start, in the end, about nine o'clock ;
crossing the Saskatchewan River (on which Medicine
Hat is situated) by means of a very fragile bridge — a

■i\

.11

:iH

uric AM) LAllOUlt IN Till': FMi, bWll WEST.

;:>

U^ivat (It'jil too fra^Mlo, F slioiild tliink, to stand lonj^.

i'licn wo (Mitcrod on a lar^«' Hat prairie witli vory ])oor
soil ; bnt we had not «(ono far hd'ore our constrncti(Hi-
train came to a standstill, it hein^ too hoavy ; so tlic
eni^Mne with hall' tlio train wont on, and h'ft iis waitin<^
there (|uietly for a lull hali-hour. The sun was
not visible to-day, and the temperature was quite
cold.

Mr. Lan<,'don, the contractor, came to pay us a visit
in our ear. lie is a fine-look in<j^ fellow, and has the
reputaticm of bein*^ a very vi«»;orous railway contractor.

lie told us that the greatest distance of line he had
made in one day, was six and a half miles. This in-
cluded earth-work, jj^radinu^, track-layinj^ {>■<'•, placin*;
the sleepers and metals), and also ballastin<j. At the
present date he said he was layinj^ about three and a
half miles a day, and we hope to see the operation to-
morrow. Since ^lay last he has laid 200 miles of the
Canadian racilie Line ; and 1 can answer for it that the
work is by no means " layins^ sleepers on the prairie"
without any earthwork; for, on the contrary, the absence
of embankment is the exception and not the rule.
Throughout the whole distance from Winnipeg the
line is generally raised on a slight embankment ; and
near Medicine Hat there is a considerable cutting.
Mr. Langdon has at present 1,800 horse teams, and
4,000 men, at work. No Chinese or Indian labourers

MEDICINE HAT AM) TIllUTKF.STll SlinSC 2if>

iirc ('mploycd, as is thc! ciiso at the otlicr cmkI of tlu' lin«'
in Hritisli (Joltmihia.

VVnicii (nio sjmaks of so many miles of track bcinj^
laid in a day (as mentioned above), it must not ])e sup-
j)ose(l tliat the wliole }^an^ of men are at work vvitliin
si^^'ht of one another. Th(» operation may extend over a
<listanc'e of perliaps twenty miles or more ; but the actual
rail and sleeper layin^j; is of course continuous; and, in
j)oint of fact, the completed line, earthworks and all,
comes up in the course; of tlu; day to the distances named.

We arrived in th(» evenin«^ at " Thirteenth Sidin*^,"
i.Ct the thirteenth sidin«^ from Medicine Hat ; each
siding being about ten miles apart. Last Sunday the
railway was completed up to this point oidy ; but now
(three days later), on Wednesday evening, it is linished
to a point thirteen miles farther west. This in itself is
sufficient to show thc wonderful rapidity with which
the line is being constructed. Were we to wait a few
days more, we should be able to go the whole distance
to Calgary by rail ; as it is, we must make arrange-
ments to drive the uncompleted portion of forty miles
between the present end of the track and Fort Calgary,
which is the terminating point of Mr. Langdon's con-
tract. The distance from Winnipeg to Medicine Hat
is OGO miles ; from Medicine Plat to the present end of
track, 140 miles; and from thence to Fort Calgary,
40 miles ; total, 840 miles.

H;i !

Ki ■- .'

m '-'

;

1 r ''

1^4

260 /.//■;'; AM) LAinn-n ix riii: far, far west.

'I'lic journey to-day was somewhat dull and dreary ;
the country beiiii^' very uninteresting and treeless, and
the soil had, and in sonio places dusty. We passed
several camps of traders with their wa^^j^ons (sometimes
as many as sixteen) laaj^ered in camp, and the oxen
standin«^ in the eentn'. dust before reachini; Tinrteenth
Siding we crossed tlie IJow River. At this ])oint
we were unhooked from the construction-train, and
shunted on to the siding for the night.

Here we were lei't quite out on the open prairie,
with no habitation within miles of us, except the Con-
struction Telegraph OlHce. There was, besides, an
encampment of the lilackfoot Indians not far off; but
they were not within sight. Our object in waiting here
was to pay their camp a visit to-morrow. They belong
to the most powerful tribe in Canada ; the name of their
chief is Crow Foot. We had heard that some of their
ceremonies were now being performed in the camp, and
in particular the " Sun Dance," which we much wanted
to witness ; and as we were told that they were very
friendly to " White Faces," we thought the visit would
be well worth carrying out. In the evening wo saw
one or two of the tribe, and sent a letter by a couple of
them to the interpreter, asking hira to meet us in the
morning. It was a very picturesque sight to watch
these two fellows riding their ponies full gallop across
the prairie, as they started off with our letter.

MEUlClSi: HAT ASD TllIUTEENTIl SIVISG.

2rA

One of tlif surveyors, who came into our car this
oveniu^', j^avc us to unih'rstand tliat then' is a p^ocl
(h'al of coal to he I'ound in tliis nciu^hhourhood. Wc
went for a walk over tho prairie, '* up a Inll," heiorc
turnin<^ in for tiie ni<(ht ; ajid thou<^ht tlie ^rass liere a
j^ood (h'al superior to wl»at we luid seen in the course of
tlie (hiv- I should not fancy that much rain falls here;
but tlu' IJow River flows within a few miles. The
railway people we met, said the air always hecame very
chilly directly the sun went down, and certainly it was
very cold this evening. It was (piitc light up to 8.15
]).ni. ; and tlie evenings are very long, for there is a
great deal of twilight. We found to-day that our sup-
plies "on hoard" the car were running very short.
There luid been so many visitors, and this had natu-
rally occasioned a run u})on the stock.

VV^e were given the following information, which
may prove interesting, and which I subjoin here. We
were tokl that the best wlieat-field of tlie North-West
is about 200 miles long by 100 broad ; and extends
from liattleford and Prince Albert in the north, to
Qu'Appelle and Brandon in the south. Prince Albert
Hi a very flourishing colony, and all the lands about
thrre are already taken up; but there are districts still
open for settlers near Beaver's Hills and Touchwood
Hills. The best cattle ranches are in the South-West
Territory. I understand that they aie let by ihe

'J.V2 1.1 I'M AM) /..i/.'or/; /.v '/'///•; iwn. am/.' ii7;n7'.

> »^

'« H)v<»nmu>nl on twouly-onc yonr l(«jis(^s, ;il ilic rate of
ton dollars per annnni jxm* 1,000 acres. 'IMicrc arc
stipulations made Ix'sidcs as to llic nuinlxM' of cattK* to
ho IuimumI on, Xt*. A pxxl cat He ranciic shonM extend
over twenty to thirty thousand acres. I am also in-
dtd)ted io Canadian residents for the lollowini:^ inrornia-
tion. In their o|)inii>n, a. settler, to do well, and
supposing; him to take up KIO acres ol' homestead
and the same <piantity of pre-emption land,
should hayc t;U)0 or I lOO to dniw upon when lie
leaves home; and this would he cxjjendcd much as
l\>lK>ws : —

r f I:

. .CM

. Ifi

.»

.'0

Yoko of o\c\\, say at C^nWi^pcllc
\Vaixs;»MJ ...

Plough

Kann tciel.s, say ...

Ono yoai's sun|>ly dI' food i'or st>!t" and w it'o (and <1ms is

!i low »'s(iinato) ... ... ... ... ... ()0

Lmnlu'r t\>rhoiist> and slablo, for ltuildin<:;a four- roomed

house ... ... ... ... ... ... GO

Two eows. say ... ... ... ... ... ... 30

Journey out for two, say ... ... ... ... 40

Ext m ea.sh for seed, ite., and oontinjjfoiicies ...

Homestead fee, UiO ueves ... ... ... ... 2

ICO :u.*res priMnnptiou land, at L\] dols, per acre ... 80

£363

Of course, a smaller sum would be suf!icieut for a
single man, or one not taking up the IGO acres of

■.iasijm'.^a»iiism

MinucisH II. \T Asn riiiUTi<:i:NTii siiuxn. 2:.;)

|)n'-(MUj)ii(Hi Iiiiid, UH well jis KIO acres lioiucsirjul ; l)ut

|MM,|

>!(' I

>av('

told nn' iliai llicv (Consider a Hcitlcr

should liavc al least eiiouL,'li money lo keej) iiiiii in
I'ood I'or two years. dp to tlie present, I am some-
wliat dis:i)>|)ointe(l wiili a, j)art of tin; North-West. It
is not (juilc what I liad expected to see; and tlioii«.^h
some thiiiLTs are more ra,voural)le than I had aiitici-

ted. oth

ers are

K^ reve

rs(^ It seems to me. heside

that a part of J\Ianitol)a is Ix-iiiL,' rather unfairly neg-
lected ; for every one now rushes oil' to the \\'(!st with-
out stayin<i^ to make in(piiries about tin; lands in this
province, especially as to those in the Red Uiver Valley.
Manitoba claims to j^rovv .'iO bushels of wheat to the
acre ((12 lbs. to th(^ bushel), 40 bushels of barley
(.')() lbs. to the busjiel), and ~t7 busiiels of oats to the
acre ( M) lbs. to the ])ushcl). Most of th(; settlers —
whether in tin; Nortli-VVest or in iManitoba — arc poor,
haviui^ <>"'y j'*'^^ enou^di money to obtain the lirst
necessaries for their farms; usually be^'innin^ without
horses, and usin<^ oxen instead. Tn places where th(;i<'
is (jiovernment land to be luid not already taken uj), a
man can settle ui)()n 1(50 acn^s for nothing'- fe.\cept the
homestead fee of £'2) ; and can take uj) 100 acres pre-
t'mption land besides, for which latter he pa3's two and
a luilf dollars per acre. This can be paid by instal-

ments of half a dollar

of which time he thus be

acre
comes

for ih

ve years.

at th

e en<

a freeholder of 320 a^res,

I '

i i

I:!'

If:

254 LIFE AND LAJJOUR IN THE FAR, FAIt WEST.

at a cost of £82 ; having liad, nicanwhilo, to comply witli
the stipuhitions of puttin<^ up a house during tlie first
three years (in vvhicli lie must reside for at k'ast six-
months ol' each year), and also of ploughing iive acres
of land annually.

i i

|; M

CHAPTER XVT.

TliK lUiACK-FOOT INDIANS.

" (/Hiw Foot" ;iiul thn 16iilw,iy A Cliiiin tor l)iuniit,'«'rt -TInsopliisticatdil
Nfitivcs Sixty Milt;s t'ur tin; Nl!a^l^'^t DocIdp - l^!V()UiIl^^ Spi^ctadoH —
Nativo Agriculture.

A LF/iTKR camo the next mornin<^ from tlio Indian
intcM'preter, sa\ in<^ tliat his cook had typlioid fever, and
that several of the Hlack-foot Indians wen; ill ; so we
had very reluctantly to «^iv(? up our j)rojected expedition
to their camp. While 1 am writing* this in the car, two
Indians have walked in, and come straight up to shake
hands. If there is any sort of fever aljout, I rather
wish they would go ; hut as they seem, on the contrary,
inclined to stop and admire everything, I have taken
the opportunity of lighting a cigar. It must be re-
membered that everything is new to them, for until
last Sunday they had never seen a car ; now, tlu^y come
from all round the country to see the construction
trains. I hardly think, however, that Chief " Crow-
foot " will ever venture into a train a^jrain ; for not lon<:
ago, farther east, the oflicials gave him and some of his
tribe a lift in two of their waggons. Unluckily, both
these waggons got upset, so Crowfoot and his men,

i. 1

256 /.//.'/•' AND LABOUR IN THE FAU, FAR WEST.

h) I

with tlieir ponies, were all nicely mixed up together,
and he says now that he does not mean to he " ditched
a second time." Since this, another Indian met with
an accident also; for putting his foot in between -''e
carriages, ho got it crushed by the buffers. Crowfoot
thereupon sent in to ask for all sorts of presents to
make amends ; and, as the contractor's man said, " We
had to give it them, for there was a great deal of
soreness among the Indians about this, and we had
to keep friends with them."

Those of the tribe that we had seen upon our
arrival seemed delighted with everything; and, when
they saw the steam issuing from the engine, kept
raisini' their hands, either in imitation or in astonish-
nient. We noticed one very picturesque fellow going
lull gallop, dressed in flowing clothes or a blanket of
several colours, his long black hair blowing behind him
in the wind, and his lasso trailing through the prairie
grass ; he was working away vigorously at his pony
with arms, body and legs. All these Indians appear to
use very short stirrups indeed.

Colonel Williams and I drove down to the Black ■
foot Crossing, on the Jiow Kiver ; and here we saw
numbers of Indians riding about, the women riding
astride with a child behind. What amused us most
was to see the way in which they carried tlieir light
luggage : two long poles are attached to the front of

TJtH n LACK- FOOT IXDIAXS.

tlio saddle, and tlicsc, sprcadiiii;' out beliind, iunn a
su|)j)()rt on wliit'li are placccl two cross-pieces ; to tliese
hitter they tie tlieir liglit bai(i;"ai,^e, and can carry it
so whih' the pony is at a trot, the farther ends of the
poh'S draL^<;'int^ nieanwlnle on the ^-round beliind. We
hear that there are as many as 1,700 Indians in tlie
IJhick-tbot camp; it is six mih's distant Troiii our
Sidini^. Tlie (}overnment at^ent lives close to IJIack-
foot CrossiuLC, imd here we saw the slaui;-hterini;'-place
for cattle — a round reserve about thirty ^ards in
diameter. The enclosure is formed with hi<;'h pali-
sading, and every pole is iastened with cow-hide, n

nails being used ; even the tires of the cart-wheels are
tied on with cow-hide, and a hay-cart we saw li.id a
kind of framing on the top, all tied together with cow-
hide also. Every two days the (iovernment serv s out
beef to the Indians from here. It seems (juite certain,
from wdiat we heard, that the Indians have a lever or

lib

lUness or souk
;nown

kind

cam])

but

it (hx

not

upi

)ear

as yet whet • it is typhoid fever or

small-po.\. One of the (iovi rnment men is no^v down

with it, and they had just cut to Calgary, sixty miles

away, for the nearest docti j. From all this I fear thai

we shall certainly be obliged to miss the hidian Sun

Dance, which we are told w ill be at its best four days

hence, and this is a great disappointment to us.

I subjoin the following .lecount by an eye-witness,
II

111:

i; :'

fir:

lV.S /.//•;•; AND LABOVli JX 'HIE I'Mi, FAU WEST.

whic'li appearofl sub.si'quL'ntly in one of the North-West
ne\vsj)a})ors : —

A SUN DANCK. RKVOLTIXC; SCKXES.

Acting' on your injiuictioiis on no account to miss tlio Sun Dance,
I Iiirt'd a buck-board on Tuesday, and starting' at \'o\\v o'clock on
Wednesday morning, n)i\de for the Reservation, and some, live
minutes afterwai'ds was at tlie location where they had the Sun
hfuice. Seventy-four lodges were encamjjed. Indians, bucks and
.s<[uaws, in the most picturesfjue garb, painted up iti the most gorgeous
colours you could possibly imagine. A very large circular building
was erected in the e(!ntre of the lodges, measuring forty-tive feet in
diameter. In the centre was a large pole. This pole was decorated
with banners and paintings of the most grotescjue and inharmonious
studi(\s in colours. Tiicre were green faces with red eyes. The
Indians themselves were painted in equHlly violent contrasts. Every
Indi.ni seemed to be of a different colour. There waf> an inner railing
of young poplars, high, iind so interlaced that it was impossible to see
through it. Ileie were thirty-six Indians with their eyes fixed upon
the centre above, bl.?.v'ing each a snuill whistle, and rising up and
down with tliat peculiar motion of the Indians like that of a man who
does not know how to ride on horseback when the horse trots. Each
of these men had, at the time I saw them, been in that position for
thirty-two hours without either food or di-ink, whistling incessantly ;
while the older braves kept up a {jerpetual pom-pom on the drums, as
a guttural song, something like the following : —

Eh-oo-hotakaha

ee-kee-ka-ko-hoo

jo-mello plecked-po-ka-kah

eh-oo-hotaka.

Then, occasionally, the medichie man would come in with a y.ipi'
decorated wiVii green leaves. Taking this pipe from his moutli, Ik
would point to the points of the compass. He Avould then go round
to the unfortunate wi-etches who were whistling, say something to
them in a low voice, and give them three or four draws of the p!]>e,

,,,,

THi: DI.AOK-FOOT IS'DIAX^. 2.*)^

iuid si> li(! ])asse(I (lisoriiiiinatiii<,'ly to tliosc wliom he tliouglit clfstrv-
iiig of this fiai^TJiiit soUitiuiii. JiOokiny rouiul to my U'ft, I suw om*
iiuui with a Itravc, line looking fac<> ; a (h'\ il j)aint<'(l in I'lue on his
naked hroast, a wliisth- in his niontli ; susp-nded from each sliouhh'i
hy a stick run throu^dl the top point of his shoulder and ln-ld liy a
eoi'd. It was

A HOKKIIir.K SUillT.

The skin was drairu't'd two and a half inches from the point of the
shoulders. J learned throutrh the interpreter that lie had heeii in
that suspendeil state for three hours previously (o my seeing him.
His whole weight rested on this string, and he danced in the air while
he whistled. Soiiictime.s his head would sink on the right, and a
swooning expression would come over his face. Then he wouM nuike
a >-purt, whistle and dance, only again to relapse into a semi-swooning
condition, his head swinging on one side. I left disgusted. iJut
hearing there was another «ncritice to make, my curiosity brought me
again into the Sun Da.,-'' On entering inside the wall of poplar
trr'cs and twigs, 1 saw a squaw kneeling in front of the j)ole. I told
the iiiterprt?ter to find out what she had done, but he eithei- could
not learn, or, a.s 1 suspect, would not tell me. It was, however, [ilain
she had committed some dreadful misdeed, and was now getting

CLEAK FROM IIKIi SIN.

8he had on her face a mingled expression of devotion and remorse.
IJarely have I seen a human figure with such an air of fi'i'veucy
around and living through every line and any the (slightest) movemiMit.
The priest, or medicine man, was jiouring forth a l(<ng oration, and
every time that he .stopped the jiom pon> went, all please(l with what
lie said. After a time a tall Indian, with a hooki'd nose ami an i-x-
j)ression which, reminded me of the tliii-d Xajtoleon, entered. He was
entirely naked but for a hij^cloth he wore. He was a magnificently
built man, and his eye liurned like a live coal. Me took his place in
the centre, right in front of the s(piaw, in (piite a theatrical manner,
commenced to i '

r. :

-■ly

-pen

Muor, witli-

whicli he held in his left hand. The S(juaw, without a trt
out a motion or hint of fear, looked on. After a few moments the
R 2

>.;>

I- a

.11

Mi '

L'()<»

LIFE AXn LAllDlli IN THE I'M!, FAIi WEST.

f(n

cliiff medicine man took a pieco of coloured cotton, jtut into it some
iishcH from the medicine tiiv, and then tlie executioner, in the most
solenni manner, tooI< a needle and raised the skin on the woman's
arm uj) from the point whenf vaccination is usually impaired, lie
jiassed the needh; tliroui,di the skin of her shoulder and Ity ,1,'reat force
raised it uj). Then with his knife, which was certaiidy very blunt,
ho hacked olf the j)iece of skin, 'i'his piei;e of skin he put in the piece;
of cotton in wdiich the mi'dicine man had placed ashes from tlu? medi-
cine fire. }[e then went round to the other arm and performed a like
operation. Tim piece of flesh taken from the left arm was also placed
in the piece of cotton which was sanctified by ashes from the medicine
fire. While this was beini,' done a silenc<; in which the fall of a
featlan' could havf Iteen heard was observed. 1 noticed that the;
medicine man and tluf (^xecutiont^r were very careful not to touch
with their lintjin's either piece of fiesh. Takinu; the two pieces of
llesh and the sacnnl ashes from the medicine fire, the medicine man
held it ovei' the fire with a lonif oration. Meanwhile the woman
stood up and threw her liead ai^ainst tlu; pole and wept piteou.^ly.
The mystery which, for me, resttul over her crime, added to the pathos
of the situation ; while tlu; really dignified bearing of the medicine
man, the dusky crowd around, and the city of teepees near, imposed
on the imagination. Tlu; man T have called the e.vecutioner looked,
as I thought, sternly on the woman as slu; wept. I have setm Miss
Hat»Mnan in " L(!ah," Let)nide L(;bhinc in "Frou-Frou," iNli.ss Helen
Kaucit in the '' Stranger,'' and have wept at her " Antigone," but on
no stage have 1 scm'u a more patla^tic, a more heart-rending })icture
than that desolate savage woman, her head agauist that [tole, weeping.
When the piece of cotton containing the ilesh was burnt, and the
medicine man's oration was o\er, the .S(puiw hurried out of the build-
ing. On going outside some five minutes afterwards, 1 .saw her
dresscMl up in all the colours of the rainbow, painted profusely, and
with a face full of joy, as if she had bcnni cleared from some dreadful
crime, and felt that exhilaration Roman Catholics tell tlmy feel when
leaving the Confessional after the priest has said Absolvo te. What
was her crinie 1 Was the executioner her husband t

77//; II LACK- FOOT IMHAS'S.

AXoTHKii srKNi:

•Jtll

I then went tutu a lari^'c tct^pco adjoiiiiiijL,', wlicii' tlicro wcrt- a
j^reat nuiiibeiof vouiil; liiiliaiis — wairiuis |k)1ii poiniiii,' on tlicso (Iniiiis.

()

lily;

)1(1

ihl

thv.

list,

•it.'il

asionaiiyan oui warrior woum
statt! rclatn liow lio lia<l killed a Sioux, and tlicn tell a long story of
all the lirave diijuls he had perfornKMl t'nini his yt)nth iip— sonufwhat
after the manner of our iioliticians. Immediately on his retiring to
his seat the young Indians wouhl commence a peculiar dance, their
Itodies douliled like that of a man with tin; colic, and jumi)ii'g in u
monotonously rhythmic fashion. Amongst those; dancing was a young
hrave who had gone through the fearful torturo of having two pieces
of wooil

HUN TirUOUiill Ills CIIKST,

from winch ho was suspended to the centre pole. Surely scenes of
torture, part only of which I have described, should lie stopju-d. I
liope you will call the attention of Lieut.-Covernor Dewdney to the
matter.

After readin*^ this account, our disappoiutnuMit, to
say the least ot" it, was cousi<lerably lessened, lor it must
have been a horrible siu'lit.

lere are a nmnoer ot wooden and niut

d hilt

S III

the valley, down by the river; these have been built
by the Uovernnient for the use of the Indians, who live
in them during tlu; winter. This land is all within
the Indian lieserve for the lilaeklbot Tribe ; the

(iovernment is endeavourinu;- to promote iarnuno- amoiiL;-
them, lending them implements and sending men to
teach them. We saw some pretty lair crops of wheat,
barley, and potatoes; but, although the valley lands
seem good, irrigatiii/^ '^^ ii\j.il^iitly required. Curiously

:;i.

i ' ;

■ 1

•I ,|

■ '

i ; -

■1

•j'lj /.//••/■.' Axn I.. morn ix tuk fah, fm: wfst.

cnou^i^li, wliilst down l)y the rivor we camo across
Sir Ak'Xiiiulrr (fait Jiiid his two sons. Colonel Williams
knew him, and introdueed me. It was certainly odd
that r shoidd meet him here alter all, for when [ was
last in London a friend had taken some trouhle in
order that 1 might form his ac(|uaintance before we
started for Canada (he being then High Commissioner),
but when we called upon him he was unwell and could

not see us

an(

now

at last, 1 was nuikinu' hi^

ac(iuaintance .some six thousand miles away from home,
in the midst of the Xorth-West Prairie, and within
sight of the l?ocky Mountains. Sir Alexander and his

m our car

sons afterwards came to pay us a visit

his outfit consisted of a buck-board with two hor

and a baggage-waggon with four.

ses

('irAi*TEI{ XVII.

AT TIIK KM) ol" THK TRACK.

Mimgi'H «f the Pntirii- Itow Itiwr — nurial iiiiinrij» tli(> Tiuliiiin — Tli' Knl
i)f till' Tiiiik — I! lilw.iy (.'Dnstriiftitiii -A Hi:^ht IJoyiil llutcl - Farmiiiij
iiiiil I'rirt's at Ciilg.irv — A lifiiiiioii -C'livc's Kxpriiiiiccs.

The siding" wIutp wc slept last nii^^lit is just within
sight of the Kocky Mountains; and it is ourious to
think that licre, wht'iv a railway is now locatccl, only
ten (hiys aiifo there was not one within miles. Tliis is
my third view ol' the Rockies this year, heini^ the third
of the approaches we have made to them fnun dillerent

().

j)oints. The lirst was wIkmi i^'oini;' west rid Colorad
to Salt Lake Citv and San Francisco ; the second i
returniuiT east from British Columbia and Oretfon
Territory ; and now the third time in ^'oins^ west a,L»'ain
r'ut the Canadian Pacific llailroad, in the North-West
Territory.

Mr. Ijanijfdon, the railway contractor, now returned
from the end ol" the track; our car was attached to his
euij^ine, and we thus continued our journey westwards.
On the road between the Thirteenth and Fourteenth
Siding's, Mitchell and I picked up two buffalo-heads
with good horns, lying within twenty yards of each

€

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

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1.0

I.I

2.5

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1.8

1.25 1.4

1.6

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6" —

►

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER. NY. 14580

(716) 872-4503

4IS

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2Gt LIFE AND LABOUR JN THE FAU, FAR WEST.

other, which we, of course, took with us in tlie car. A
loni^ line of traders passed us to-day, consisting of
twelve wafii'gons tied together in twos, sixteen or
eighteen bullocks being attached to each. This mode
of locomotion must be very slow, and will soon now be
supplanted by the railway; it therefore is one of the
sights of the North-AVest which will shortly be amongst
the things of the past.

One of the most remarkable phenomena on these
Canadian prairies are the frequent "mirages"; of these
we have seen many during our run from Winnipeg here,
some of course being much more marked than others.
In the far, far distance one sees a line of trees, rising
apparently out of a sheet of water; and very often after
passing a line or group of trees (the latter are a very
rare occurrence on the prairie), as one leaves them
farther and farther behind, the illusion of the presence
of intervening water, and finally of seeing only the
tops of the trees with a sheet of water belo n, becomes
almost perfect.

The reason we waited so long at Thirteenth Sidinij
to-day was because Colonel Williams and ]VIr. Jaffray
went out somewhere to meet a person they wanted to
.see, and we had intended meantime paying a visit
to the Indian Camp. As this latter plan did not come
oif the day was somewhat thrown away, but in a new
country like this there is always something to. see, and

AT TITJJ EXD OF THE TBACK.

265

indeed watcliing- tlie Indians wiis in itself u sufficiently
new sensation.

The Bow River scenery has a character of its own,
but notliing can be seen of it until one comes close to
the banks. It is very bare of vegetation, but rather
remarkable in colourin<^, especiall}' in the li<»hts and
shades. We saw an Indian sjrave witli a red fla<'' stuck
on it to mark it. Those of the Indians on the plains
who are not Christians difftM* in their mode of burial
from the Indians of British Columbia, as before described
(see paii^e 109). Here, instead of placing' their dead in
trees (of which there is a scarcity), they lay them on
platforms supported on four poles eight or ten feet
above ground. A chief occasionally has the privilege
of having his tent placed over him. Here, as in British
Columbia, the custom is to hang up the weapons of
war.

I do not know at what time we left Siding Xo. 13 ;
but when we started we went west as far as Siding
No. 15. The last run of seven or ten miles from
No. 14 to No. 15 was a little rough, and the engine
and contractor's car, as well as the construction-train,
were all behind us, so we were pushed along. This
mode of locomotion is not pleasant on an old-established
line — far less so on one that has not been constructed
forty-eight hours. However, we reached No. 15 Siding
ill due course, and were rather glad to have done so in

iin>'

■If"

I J

L'fjf)

T.irr: axd lATioi'n ix the fae, fah west.

siifety ; but directly afterwards one of the construction
(;ars, loaded with iron rails, broke down, and had to be
unloaded before the train could proceed. Our quarters
for the night were at Siding No. 15, 140 miles west
of Medicine Hat. It was curious to think that the
rails on which our car now rested were not even laid at
six o'clock jTsterday evening, and that at the present
moment (7 p.m. on tlie following day) the line was
finished four miles on ahead farther west. The con-
tractor's car ran on to the end for the night, while we
were left at Siding No. 15, where we formed part of a
settlement which was only started yesterday, and would
move on to-morrow to the next Siding. This settle-
ment consisted of a line of cars (including a store),
several tents, and a butcher's shop, the latter being
simply two bullocks killed and hung on poles in the
open. There were also several waggons with stores,
&c., a good many dogs, and two foxes. Some of our
party meditated a visit to General Strange, who lives
somewhere in these parts, and to whom we had an in-
troduction, but we finally agreed to give up the idea,
and to renew our journey all together in the morning.

I sent a telegram the last thing this evening to
Clive at Medicine Hat, on the chance of his coming
there by the night train. I really do not know how
many telegrams I have now sent, hoping they may find
him somewhere. Not only have I continually tele-

u!,

.IT TirE EXD or THE TliACK.

2Cu

how
find
tele-

i,n*aplied to liiin persoiiully, but I have also kept up a
constant lino of communication with various station-
masters along the whole line, especially at Brandon,
telling them to be on the look-out for him.

The next morning (July .27th) we were up pretty
early ; but as so many dillerent times seem kept here,
it is rather difficult to know what clock to go by —
whether AVinnipeg time or something more local. We
were to start in two conveyances, viz., a waggon on
springs, which would hold eight, and a double buggy
to take four, leaving room besides for the driver, &'c.
The two hind-wheels of this latter vehicle showed signs
of hard work. The spokes were strengthened by extra
])ieces of wood, tied round with cow-hide, both hind-
wheels being the same. Thus patched they were con-
sidered to be in readiness for a forty miles' drive across
a rough prairie. The waggon had a canvas covering.
Starting on our drive, we followed alongside the railway
grade for the first five miles, when we came to the end
of the track, where the construction was going on.

The first object which attracted our attention was
the construction train. It was composed of thirteen
carriages, viz. : 1, a truck ; 2, a boarding car; 3, a cook-
ing car; 4, 5, 0, 7, 8 and 9, all boarding cars; 10,
blacksmith's shop; 11 and 12, store cars; 18, con-
tractor's car. The carriages were queer ones to look at ;
very useful, no doubt, but not ornamental. Behind

■' ^

I !

2(i8 LIFE AND LABOVIi IX THE FAIi, FAl^ WEST.

'■i

came a train loaded with a suitable number of sleepers,
steel rails, nuts, pins, and fish-plates — everything, in
fact, for the construction of the line.

The process of layinu^ a line is accomplished with
remarkable rapidity. A sufficient number of rails are
laid on a hand-truck, together with pins, fish-plates,
cVc, but the sleepers are sent on in advance by horse-
teams, and are thrown down by the side of the grade,
and then placed in position. Each team takes thirty
sleepers, fifteen of which go to each rail. Each one is
put in place previous to the arrival of the hand-car
which brings the rails along the completed portion of
the line. These hand-trucks are each drawn by two
horses, one on either side of the rails, at the top of the
embankment. On reaching the farther end of the last
two newly-laid rails, six men on either side of the truck
each seize a rail between them and throw it down in
exact position ; a couple of others gauge these two
rails, in order to see that they are correct; four men
following with spikes place one at each of the four
ends of the rails ; four others screw in the two fish-
plates ; and another four follow with crow-bars, to raise
the sleepers whilst the spikes are being hammered in.
All work in order, and opposite to each other on each
separate rail. After these come more men with hammers
and spikes to make the rail secure ; but the truck con-
taining the rails, &c., passes on over these two newly-

AT THE MJXD OF THE TRACK.

2ii!t

uck
n in
two
men
our
isli-
aise
d in.
each
mers
con-
wly-

laid ones before tlii.s is done. All the men must keep
in their places and move on ahead, otherwise they will
be cauj^^ht up by those behind them.

About 300 men were workin*.^ in this way when we
passed ; in advance of them were others fixinsj^ the tele-
graph; and others aj^ain getting' the grade and the
next siding ready. It was altogether very interest-
ing to watch. After completing our inspection we
turned off on to the open prairie in the direction of Fort
Calgary, and on the way picked up another large pan-
of bufi'alo-horns — an immense head. It was a remark-
able sight, looking back over the prairie to where the
construction train and its surroundiuii^s stood. We
soon reached the main trail, and had luncheon on the
prairie near Weed Lake. It was not safe to cross this
part of the North- West three years ago, on account of
the Indians belonging to the Sucee Tribe. After a
very long and uninteresting drive, we arrived at the
ferry on the Bow Kiver, the charges for crossing which
are somewhat high. They run thus : —

Single vehicle, 1 horse
Double „ 2 horses
Horse and rider
Horse, mule, or cow
Shee[), hog, calf, or colt

For all articles over one cwt., not conveyed in a vehicle, 15 cents
for every cwt. For every person, except team-drivers, 25 cents.
These charges are doubled after sunset.

100 cents

= 4s.

English money

150 „

= Gs.

50 „

-- 2s.

>»

25 „

= Is.

25 „

= Is.

I':

ill

270 TJI'P: and LATiOUli IN THE FAH, VAU WEST.

' t

Ciil<,''iiry is quite in its infancy. There lias Ijeen a
Hudson's Hay Company's Fort here for some years, and
also police barracks, l)ut no other inhabited place. On
the apjjroach of the railway, liowever, a sud(h>n spurt
has taken place, as is shown by a L,n'eat inlhix of visitors
within the last ten or fourteen da3's. Fifty to sixty
tents and framed houses have already sprunf]^ up.
There are hotels, stores, &c., and more peo])le are on
the road, so the cry is certainly "Still they come."

We went to the " Eoyal Hotel," a tent about thirty
feet long by eighteen feet broad, and decided to take up
our quarters there for the night. Having heard a
rumour that there had been a sharp frost over-night,
we went to inspect some potatoes near, and. found that
three-parts of the crop (about one-quarter of an acre in
extent) had been completely destroyed by frost yester-
day, some time in the course of the night. I am afraid
that these summer frosts (which I am told occur very
often) would be against the Calgary district as a farm-
ing country ; but for grazing purposes it is promising,
though farther south is better. I hear that there are
some good farming lands at Edmonton, 150 to 200
miles north of Calgary, and that the climate there is
much the same as in this part ; but it is rather milder
south, about Fort McLeod, which is reported to be a
good stock-raising district. The Bow and Elbow rivers
unite at Calgary, which is in consequence very prettily

AT THE i:XD i)F TUE TRACK.

;! 1

situated. The waters of the Jiow river are partieularly
clear and blue. Caly'arv was Lord Lome's farthest
point in his tour throui;'h the North-West Territory
in 1881: I'rom here he turned south to Fort McLeod,
and then, I think, went on to Helena, Montana
Territory.

A settler who had been four years at Cal<^'ary, and
who came here from ^hmitoba, told n\e that he saw
little or no difference between this place and Winnipeg
OS regards climate, except that there was perhaps less
snow here. Snow frequently falls in October, and
sometimes even in September, but winter does not set
in in earnest till November 1st ; after that date tlie
snow is continuous on the ground until the spring, say
till April. As to the summer frosts, I am told that
they are liable to occur every third night. This same
settler said that the West was filling up fast, but that
he thought it would be the same thing as in Manitoba :
" A lot would come, and then half of them would go
away again," as had been the case there. There is (I
am informed) a country on the lied River, eighty miles
north of Siding No. 13 on the Canadian Pacific Ilail-
road, which is about 120 miles west of Medicine Hat,
with good land, excellent water, and enough timber for
fuel, and where the winter is said to be only three
months long. If there really is a district with all these
advantages, settlers ought certainly to inquire about it,

' " I
\ 1 1

■■)'

illn

»>?■>

/,//••/■; .i.\7) LMinuit IX Till: r.iii, fau west.

; i 1

•:'.i

lor tilt' ^iviit drawback to the wliolo of this country
(and this remark a])})lies not only to the Nt)rth-\Vest
Territory but to Manitoba, cVc, and indeed to all the
more northern ])art of the United States) is undouljtudly
the len»j;'th and severity of the winters.

The peculiar carts which I have noticed about here
come I'rom the Ked River district ; they are made
entirely of wood, no iron whatever being used in their
construction.

Mr. Jaft'ray and the rest of our party gave up the
idea of going on to-morrow to Morleyville and the
" Gap " — i.e., the gap in the Rocky Mountains through
which tlie railway is to pass. 1 fancy that they had
had enough of the rougb driving over the prairie to-
day to last them for some time ; as for myself, I had
said all along that I should not go any farther with-
out Clive, but should wait about at Fort Calgary until
he joined me. Something is evidently wrong with
the telegraph department somewhere, for I have had
no news of him in reply to my wires. Here at
Calgary we were beyond the reach of the telegraph,
so there was nothing for it but to wait.

We were about a dozen persons altogether in the
tent, and it was very cold during the night, although
with the aid of my great-coat and buffalo-robe I did
my best to keep myself warm. In the course of the
following morning I paid a visit to Mr. Fraser, the

r
r

tu]

AT THE i:S'D OF TUi: TRACK.

27:5

Hudson's Bay Conipiiiiy's oflicer. His opinion was not
very ravounil)lo to Calijary as roi^ards its pros])('cts as
a farniinuf district (by which lio meant ph)U<^hed lands),
on account of the frosts, wliich he said occur t're(|uently
throui^^liout the summer ; he thinks also that this
country is mare adapted lor horses than cattle. Tlie
river-water at Calijfary is f^ood, hut in our forty miles
drive here, across the prairie from the railway, we saw
no other to speak of. It should he menHoned that the
Bow Kiver becomes the Saskatchewan oefore it reaches
Medicine Hat. AVe went down to the river for a hathe,
but found the water very cold, and the stones shiny
with a kind of clay. At breakfast we asked our host
of the tent-hotel some questions respecting prices at
Calgary, with the following result ; but it nmst be
remembered that when the railway is opened prices will
necessarily drop, and that at present it is, as concerns
goods traffic, ISO miles away : —

Flour, per cwt.

Beef, per lb.

Bread, per loaf of 3 lbs. ... -.^ „

Milk, per gallon ... ... ^^y ,,

Salt butter, per lb. (very bael) 50 „

Sugar, per lb. ... ... 20 „

8 clols. = £\ 12s. Gel.
20 cents. = lOd.

= Is.
50

= 2s.
= 2s.

= loa.

Mr. Jaffray and the rest of our party made up their
minds to remain at Calgary for the day instead of re-
turning to the car. Mitchell and I had previously

..I

nniii iiii

!, ;

l!«'l

274 II I'!-: AM) lM:in'i; ly -i III: I'M,', I'Aft W'HST.

\ i

Ml'

.st'ttk'd thai, under any circuinstauees, wo \v<juld stay
tlicrc and wait fur Clivo, so wo docidod <>n the fullowini;'
driving" cxpodiiion lortlicday: — to Ijivin<;st()no l'\ir!n,
lour niilos; ami on to (lien's, throe niilos ; thenco to
(lovornnient Jlouso, tliroo niilos; and to Colonel do
W'inton's,* two miles nioro ; in order to roach tlio latter
we should havo to cross the IJow liivor.

Whilst jotting down a I'ow things in n»y noto-houk
I hoard a voioo of groeting, and looking u[), saw Clive
standing boforo mo. We wore delighted at meeting
again ; at any rate wo wore so to see him, and T think
the feeling was mutual. It appeared that ho had only
received one of my numerous telegrams and messages,
and ho had wired to me three times, none of his
teU'grams, however, being delivered. Wo compared
notes on these points, knowing that there must have
i)een a mistake or some negligence somewhere ; but it
was certainly not our fault. It seems that Clive had
followed us up as fast as he could, but previous to
arriving at Winnipeg, and while there, he had been un-
well. However, having sulHciently recovered on Wed-
nesday morning last (the :2oth), and having been passed
by the doctor, he had started oft' again after us, travelling
by the 7.30 a.m. regular train as far as Moosejavv, where
the " Sleeper " had been taken off', and onlj- an inferior
mixed train sent on. From Medicine Hat he had come

* Now Sir Franci.s de Wiuton.

AT Till': i:SD nF TUi: TliACK.

275

I stay
j\vin;4'
Fiinn,
iico to
K'l do
latter

,e-))o<jlv

r Clive

u'ctiiiLC
think

A only

:'ssages,
of liis

mparod

st liave
but it
ve had
,'ious to
eon un-
n Wed-
i passed
j.vellin<3^
, where
inferior
d come

on l)y a coiistniction train, sonictinics in the " eahousi' "
(or hreak-van), ;ind sometimes on the top of a truck
laden witli steel mils, a journey which must,! tliink,
have l)een most uncomfortahie. \\ lim lie reaciud tin-
end ol' tlie track (thirty-live miles I'rom Cali;'ary) he
had set oil' at 7 [).m. to walk the rest of tlu' distance
across the prairie, t'ollowiuL^ the trail we had previously
tak(>n in driviuLj. He walked altogether twenty-tive
miles, resting for a |)art ol' tlu^ night in a railway cauij) ;
for the last ten miles he got a lift on a Hour
waggon, going to sleep on the tops of the sacks, to ho
awoke by a passer-by calling out to him in uncompli-
nientary language, and telling him he was a lazy beggar
to be lying asleep at that time in the morning, which
amused him immensely when he told me the storv.
On the whole his journey must have been most un-
])Ieasaut and fatiguing, more especially as he was far
from well at the time. When I first saw him he was
all covered with dust from his long night journey, which
latter had been, to say the least of it, a very plucky
undertakiui

'5^'-

s •'

CHAPTEE XVIIl.

A DRIVING TOUR.

Livingstone— Glon's Fanti and Government Farms — Colonel do Winton's Ranche
— A "Round Up" — Cochrane Ranche — A Day's Track-laying — Pro-
fessional Jealousy — Sixteenth Siding — An Inquiry as to " Them Fellows "
— Indisposition of Clive.

After a little delay we started off together on our
pn^posed trip, driving first to Livingstone, a farm on
the bend of the Elbow River. The owner, unfortu-
nately, was not at home ; but his crops, as far as we
could see, looked well. Next we drove on to Glen's,
another farm, where we had luncheon, and then to
Government Farm — our main object to-day being to
see the best farms in the neighbourhood. Although
they all looked comparatively tidy, I did not notice
anything which impressed me with the idea of great
fertility of soil, and I certainly look upon these summer
frost;-^ as a serious drawback to this district. If snow
falls as late as April, or even (as stated) sometimes in
May, and begins again the end of September, the summer
or working months are reduced to very few indeed,
and of these June is generally recognised as the wet
month of the year.

■

»•}.

A DPilVTXG TOUR.

277

a's Rancho
•iii<? — Pi'O-
L Follows "

on our
'arm on
mfortu-
' as we
Glen's,
then to
eing to
Ithougli
notice
ii great
Bummer
[f snow
imes in
iiimmer
lindeed,
the wet

After leaving Government Farm — where there was
a capital spring of water (one of tlie very few that I
have seen in the North -West) — we continued our drive
to Bow River, on the opposite side of which is the De
Wintons' ranche, their log-hut being a mile farther
on inland, away from the river. Colonel de Winton,
military secretary to Lord Lome, was staying tliere on
a visit to his two sons. We took up our quarters
on the bank, waitins^ on the chance of seein<]f some
one with a boat to take us across ; and in about
half an hour's time one of the young De Wintons
came down to find out what we wanted. Clive, Colonel
Williams, and I crossed the river with him, one at :i
time, in a boat almost too small to be comfortable,
for the river was rapid ; and then we walked on up to
the hut, where I presented Colonel de Winton with
my letter of introduction from a relative in England.
Everything was in true ranche style ; the hut was
simply a log one, about twenty-four feet by eighteen
feet; the floor was of earth, and there were one or
two camp-beds in the corners. A rough table and
forms in the middle of the room, a cooking-stove,
some carpenter's tools hung up round the . >oden
walls, and some framed photographs in one corner,
composed the chief part of the furniture — though there
were a few other things about.

In this hut Colonel de Winton, with his two sons.

11
i'i

I I

M^l

.t h

:278 LIFE AND LABOUR IN TJU-J t'AH, hAl! ll'A'.bT.

1 K

IS '

another young i'ellow, and their head man, were all livhiL*-
together. He was very glad to see us, and invited us
to stay to dine and sleep (though I think there were
nearly enough of them in the hut, witliout us) ; but we
were not able to do so, and were glad of a cup of tea
instead, to which was added some bread and a pot of
marmalade. He said he had no whiskey ; for though
he had ordered a case, some people, whose track I
had better not mention, had stolen it, and there was
no redress ; and he complained that they had not
only stolen that, but his letters too. The size of this
ranche is almost G miles by 5 ; it is situated ten miles
south of Calgary, and stands about 3,000 feet above the
sea-level.

The stock of cattle on a ranche is " rounded up "
annually, and in order to see a ranche properly one
should be present at one of these " round-ups," for then
the calves are marked, the numbers are counted, and
beasts for sale are drawn out, &c. In an ordinary way,
all one sees is the open prairie, with cattle feeding about
here and there. The De Wintons told us a good deal
about the country, and we found that here also there had
been a sharp frost on the :20th July, which had cut off
all the potatoes. When Lord Lome left Calgary, travel-
ling south, he was accompanied by Colonel de Winton,
and the latter told us that the distances are three days
to Fort McLeod (reckoning forty miles for each day),

i M'

A nniviXG Toun.

•27it

lys

y)>

and seven clays on to Helena, there bein<:^ a jj^ood
smootli track all the way.

We were much tempted to take this route, and
Colonel de Winton offered to sell us horses, as we
should have to find a rcij^ular " outfit " for the journey ;
but, on consideration, we were obliged to L;"ive u]) the
idea, as in order to make a trip of this kind one should
lay in a stock of provisions, ^c, which we could not well
do in these out-ot'-the-way parts. Colonel de Wintuii
said that the land farther south, at Fori: McLeod, is
about the same as that in this district as regards grass,
but that the climate there is milder, and there is less
snow. In the west the snowfall is considerable, but
it very often blows whilst falling, and therefoi'e in
places it has no time to deepen. I have made a good
many inquiries about the climate and land in this
district (which is called the South- West part of the
Great North- Western Territory), because it bears the
reputation of being the best feeding-land in Canada.
This is perhaps the case, but as far as I have seen I am
not so favourably impressed as I had expected to be,
and from what I can gather it appears that the country
south of Fort Calgary is best for feeding, and that ti»
the north of it for agriculturul purposes ; but that
Calgary itself is not exceptionally good for either —
indeed, rather the reverse, iiefore the railway reached
this point, or was within 400 miles of it, every one was

I '«

\ \M

! ?

?Mi

I I

,;.f:i
I

280 TJFE AXD LABOUR ly THE FAR, FAR WEST.

recommended to go west in advance of the line ; but,
as far as I could judge from the railway, there is very
little good land the whole way between ISToosejaw and
Calgary, a distance of 440 miles.

The Cochrane Eanclie is near Fort Calgary, but it has
been badly managed, and many cattle have strayed and
been lost. I should think that Colonel de Winton's
hut was built rather low, and may therefore be subject
to mosquitoes, for it is almost on a line with the river,
which here makes a pretty bend. Behind the hut the
ground rises rapidly, and the best part of the ranche is
on a plateau above. Wishing Colonel de Winton good-
l)ye, we returned to the river-bank, where we found the
two young de Wintons trying to get a couple of
horses across. The water was so deep that the animals
would have to swim, and hitherto they had failed in
inducing them to start ; but the head man, who was
returning with us, soon put matters in better trim, and
sent the horses in, and over they went, one young
de Winton getting out of his depth whilst leading a
horse in, before letting him go. This method of ford-
ing the river was well worth seeing. On our return to
our camp at Calgary we got the same accommodation in
our tent-hotel as we had had the previous day, and I was
lucky in securing a camp bedstead. Clive, being tired,
went to bed very early, while Mitchell set off to pay a
visit to the Mounted Police Barracks. It was settled that

ill

A niUVIXG TOUR.

2S1

was
and

ired,
ay a
til at

we were to return to the end of the track the next day
in our waufi^on and double bu<4"<i^y. I did not find the
tent quite so cold on this occasion, but the nights are
certainly anything but warm in the North-AVest. AYe
left Calgary at 0.15 a.m., crossing the Bow River again
by the ferry, which is very cleverly managed, being so
arranged that, on the bows of the ferry-boat being
turned up-stream by a wheel whenever a trip across is
necessary, the force of the water is sufficient by itself to
carry the boat over to the other side. For the first
twenty miles we went over the same prairie we had
crossed on the previous Friday, and then turned off' to
follow the unfinished railway track, in order that we
might hit off the first siding; as, of course, several miles
of line had been constructed since we went on our
expedition west to Calgary on Friday last.

Yesterday had been a great day for track-laying.
The contractor had made arrangements for endeavour-
ing to lay more rails in one day than had ever been
done before on any American line ; and they had looked
forward to laying ten miles in one working day. The
result, however, disappointed their expectations, for
only six miles and a quarter were completed between
4 a.m. and 8 p.m. The ground had not been favour-
able for the work, there being several curves, and one or
two embankments. But the real reason of the want of
success lay in the fact that the contractor, in order to

ji ;

2S2 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAH, FAR WEST.

W f

t ' 1

make a bi*^ day, had broui^'ht up a second gans^ of men
to help tlie first. These latter resented this, because
they had on one occasion hiid as much as six and a half
miles in one day without extra help, and they did not
want to beat that achievement. The second gang, on
their part, objected to the arrangement, because they
were jealous of the others, who would (they thought)
get all the credit of the big day if good work were
accomplished. So that in the end only six and a
quarter miles were laid, i.e., one quarter of a mile less
than the first gang had previously done by themselves
in one day. The contractors were much disappointed
that so short a length only had been accomplished, and
said they were determined to repeat the trial another
day. I looked over the whole of the line laid yester-
day, and I cannot help thinking that had a little more
time been bestowed on it, the result would have been a
better job. However, it is wonderful to think that
such an extent of line can, within one day's work, be
laid in any form at all. -

We stopped to have our luncheon by a spring, the
only one in these parts. Near to it was a large railway
encampment, and also two jDarties of traders, one with
horses, the others railway employes with mules. All
the wau^gons were of course laaijered as usual. The
place was called Marston Camp, and here Clive had
slept whilst on his walk across the prairie. AVe

:liat
be

.1 nriivixG Toun.

283

i^titliered from some of these people tliat we luid to
drive six miles on to the present terminiition of the
truck, and twelve miles altogether to the first Sidini^
(No. 10), where we hoped to find our car. We walked
on ahead for a considerable distance from here ; but
walking on a prairie is not interesting work, for every-
thing is exactly the same ; no variation whatever relieves
the monotony. At last, in the distance, we saw the
construction train. It was curious to observe how
large single objects like this look on a prairie
when seen from some distance. Everything seems
magnified, and appears about three times its natural
size.

On reaching Sixteenth Siding we found that our car
had not been brought on, but was still ten miles
farther down, at Siding No. 15, where we had left it on
the preceding Friday ; for it must be remembered that
Siding No. 10 was not then in existence. We therefore
telegraphed to have it sent on ; and wliil(3 Clive and
the others spent the time in going to sleep (lying-
down on the prairie), Mitchell and I took the oppor-
tunity of having a good wash in the open, drawing the
water for this purpose from one of the three huge
tanks which we found on trucks at tiie end of the
construction train. This being Sunday, only some of
the people were at work on the line ; others were busy
clothes-washing, &c., and hanging up blankets and

I ;l

'!!

■■ i:

284 LTI'K AND LABOUR IN Tllh: FAR, FAR WEST.

various g-armcnts to dry, in all sorts of positions, round
the construction cars.

I must describe tlie interior of one of these car-
riages. On tlie ground ih)or (as it were) is the mess-
room, with a long table on either side ; the two storeys
above are both dormitories, with beds in two tiers on
each sid \ every bed being shared by two men. The
entrance is from the end.

AVe had to spend some time waiting at the Siding,
so, having had our wash, and the day being hot, we
followed the example of the rest of our party, and went
to sleep under our umbrellas, awaking to hear that we
had attracted attention, by the following remark which
we overheard made from one of the boarding cars :
" AVhat are them fellows — engineers, or what?" The
railway doctor, with whom we had some conversation,
was of opinion " that yesterday's track-laying (six and a
quarter miles) was a poor day's work." At last our car
arrived ; but before getting into it we had some little
disagreement with our late driver, who wanted us to
pay him one day more than was really his due ; and, on
our refusal, threatened to seize our luggage. This
question we speedily settled by walking it off and de-
positing it in the car. The railway people invited us into
the head ganger's car to tea. These people apparently
live remarkably well, for we had beef, ham, hot bread,
coffee, tea, tinned peaches, &c. &c. No beer or other

A Dnivixa Torn.

285

ittle

as to

d, on

This

de-

into

ntly
read,

tlier

spirits are allowed in the North-AVest, hut doul)tless
there are some concealed ahout, for one of our party
was ofFcvd a hottle of whiskey for live dollars (£1).
The.e were at this sidinjj four miles of construction
materials ready to he sent to the front. Each train
carries a sufficient quantity for completin*^ one mile.
Mr. Egan (the j^eneral superintendent) arrived late in
the evening; and we were told that our car should he
hooked on to his train, and sent east in ahout an hour's
time, at 10 p.m., hut this arrangement did not come
off, and we instead spent the night at No. 1(5 siding;
and I slept on the tloor of the car, wrapped in my
buffalo robe. CUve, not being quite the thing, got the
railway doctor to come and see him in the morning.
jVIr. Egan had a special engine to take him back to
^Medicine Hat, and we were hooked on to his car, and
so performed this part of our return journey (about
160 miles) much more quickly, going at a pretty good
pace for a new line. The country was most un-
interesting and very dusty, and there was nothing the
whole w^ay worth recording, except that we met Mr.
McTavish and a few other railway officials on the road,
going west to Calgary. AVe reached Medicine Hat
about 3 p.m., having left the Sixteenth Siding about
8.30 that morning. We received some letters from the
post-office, forwarded here from AVinnipeg.

Mr. McTavish strongly recommended us to make

!►

1 '
S

•JSG 7,//'A' .LYP f.Anon: ix tin: iwi;. r.ii; west.

ii trip to Soutlicrn Miiiiitolui, and su^<j^('stc'(l tluit by
leaving the train iit Hnuulon wc; could drive sixty-five
miles to Deloraine, and from tliero make an expedition
to Souris, thirty miles distant; then, returning to
Deloraine, wo could continue our drive to Manitoba
City (105 miles farther), and thence rail back to
Winnipe<^ by the South- Western line. This trip could
also be made from the opposite direction, vi/., starting
from Winnipeg and returning by Brandon, and in either
case the best part of Southern Manitoba would be seen.
The distance from Brandon direct to Manitoba City is
about i)() miles, and must all be })ert'ormed by road, Lr.,
following a trail across the prairie. From Medicine Hat I
sent a telegram to Herbert Power at Assiniboine Farm,
twenty miles north of Virden, saying we should reach the
latter station on the following Wednesday morning at
I). 47 a.m., and asking him to meet us there. Mitchell
went with Mr. Jatlray and Colonel Williams to see a
newly opened coal-mine, about six or seven miles away.
They crossed the Saskatchewan Iliver by ferry, and then,
after driving for some distance alongside the railway
track, struck southwards across the prairie. On reach-
ing their destination they were received by the manager,
Mr. nice. The mine is in one of the lateral gullies
running down to the valley of the South Saskatchewan
River ; the top soil is simply loose sand, and the stones
are water-worn boulders. The shafts (of which there

;lieii,

vvav

jacli-

A DIUVIXC ToUli.

2hi

are now two ojkmi) run into the Inll-sidc ; tlie coal lies
in clay, and the upper scam liaviii^^ been on lire, the
clay above it is burnt into rcLfuIar brick. There arc
throe scams of coal ; the top one is thin, the middle one
is that which is bein^- worked at ])res(>nt, and is live
feet thick; the lower one is, I think, rather less. Fron-
stonc of rich (juality (they say 7') jx'r cent.) is I'ound in
these gullies, and Mitchell broui^ht back some very
yood specimens of petrified wood.

I stayed behind with Clive, who was very unwell
all day, and spent the evening also with him in the
car. Throughout the day the weather was very hot,
much warmer than it has been for some time, and
this probably had had an ellect upon him, but in
the evening, as usual, it became cool again. We were
to start eastwards half an hour after midnight, so our
car was placed on a siding to await the departure of the
train. I hope we may be more fortunate than Sir
Alexander (lalt, who I hear was left behind (since
we met him the other day) on a siding for thirty hours,
with nothinsr to eat or drink.

i I

I wan
ones
here

• ) I

!■

iS:

CIIAITKK XIX.

MI'.DICINK MAT TO MKANDON,

.M (Hist 'jaw All Mtitcrinisin^!; Kditiir KlklmiM ('nniiiKitinii iiml Siiiiinition 'I'lm
AH>iiiiliiiini' Kiinii " Miiik-scltiiiK " A Wrcily Cuuiitry A CoM t'liiuiito
— A CoMsidnalili' "'iVillc" Miainlnii.

Wv. left Mcdiciiio Iliit on .Inly :Jlst at ['2.'M) ii.in.,
our car bcin*,^ attacliccl to the ordinary " passcnj^'cr "
train — which consisted of but one passcni^cM' car — the
rest of tlie train beini^ composed of several trucks and
vans ; we were to run tlius as I'ar as Moosejaw, a
distance of ^(U niiU>s, where a better train would be;
made uj). On awaking* we found that we were ])assini^
throuo-h a very uninterestiui^ country, all broad, level
prairie, with short, poor-lookin<^ grass, of but very little
value lor agricultural purposes. As we approached
Moosejaw the land gradually improved a little, and this
it continued to do all the way eastwards from Moose-
jaw to Winnipeg, although there are occasional patches
of bad land. On the Old Wives' Lakes we saw a large
quantity of wild geese and ducks ; game is, as a rule,
scarce in the North -West, but this part looks as if it
might be a good sporting country for wild-fowl. We
arrived at Moosejaw about 7.30 p.m., and the train

tinn Tin'
M Cliiiiati'

ji.m.,
;i'ii^('r "
111- — tho
;ks unci
I'jiiw, a
Diikl bo

1, level
little
oiiclied
u\ this
yioose-
atclies

a largo

a rule,

■as if it

e train

MEDIC J Si: I fir TO iiu.isnny.

sto|)j)c(l there an Imiir lor the ))asseu«^ers to have supper ;
tlio refreshment jiruvided in the Ifailwiiy Tent was,
however, so infamously l)a(l that l\riteliell and I
adjonriK'd to one oC the hotels, where we were better
served.

('Ontinuin;^ our journey, we stopped a lew minutes
at Itej^ina to pick up the newspa|)ers relative? to our
tour, iVc, which had been promised us by the editor
of the licii'nm Lcndt'r. During' tin? Uww \w was with
us in the car, we were all talking' and lauj^hin;^' to^^i'ther ;
and I, for (tne, had no idea that my words would be
published in this fashion. I spent the nij^ht a;^^ain on
a bulTalo-robe on the; lloor of th(» car, Mitchell sleej)-
ing on another; and W(» had a very unconilbrtablo tinn?
of it, for th(» train shook terribly, and jumped about
on the sleepers in a most aL,',i(ravating ^vay. Our
plans lor the comin<4" day were as follows: — Clive,
Mitchell, and T were to leavx' the train at Virden
station at \) 47 a.m., in order to visit our friend Mr. II.
Power; and the ofHcial car was to remain there to await
our return in the eveninj.^, when ^Fr. Jaffray (who had
already got out of t'»e train at 5 a.m. at Broadview)
was to rejoin us. Meanwhile, the rest of the party were
to travel on by the ordinary passenger train to which
we were attached as far as Brandon, and await our
arrival there the following morning. However, at a
station named Elkhorn — seventeen miles short of

..il

i Ik

I ,

'Ml \

290 LIFE AXD LABOUR IX THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

Virclon, and two stations west of that place, — we were
very niucli surprised by the appearance of Herbert
l\)wer, who came on board our car, and told us that
we ought to get out there instead of at Virdon ; for that
Elkhorn was only half the distance from Mr. Rankin's
land (called the Assiniboine Farm). He said he had
telegraphed to us to this effect, but of course we
had missed it.

Everything was at once in commotion ; for, not
expecting to get out for another three-quarters of an
hour, we were not ready ; and I did not like to authorise
taking the car off without permission, and this no one
could give, for Mr. Jaffray had left us at Broadview.
The alternatives were, either to get off the car at once,
or to go on in it to Virden ; and there was no time
to spare in making up one's mind. Power jumped
off just in time, while the train was already in motion,
followed by Mitchell; but Clive was not ready, not
having had any notice of the contemplated sudden
change of plans. I could have followed Power's and
Mitchell's example, and jumped off as they did; but
I did not want to leave Clive behind, and thus,
meantime, the train got up speed. I could not help
laughing when Mitchell ran after it, shouting out,
" I shall be left behind ; I shall be left behind ;" know-
ing, as I did, that we could put matters right on our
arrival at Virden.

ST.

-we were
Herbert

us that

for that

Rankin's

he had
urse we

for, not
s of an
uthorise
no one
)adview.
at once,
no time
jumped
motion,
dy, not
sudden
r's and
id; but
I tJius,
ot help
ig out,
' know-
on our

MEDIC L\E HAT TO BILIXDOX.

291

Accordin<^ly, when we got there, we took the car
off the train (Olive and I remaining with it), whilst
the rest of the party continued their journey to
Brandon. Then ensued a lively conversation by wire
with Herbert Power, at Elkhorn ; and, finding that
Virden was nineteen or twenty miles from the Assini-
])oine Farm, and that I could only get a buck-l)oard
to take us there, we decided on running the car back
to Elkhorn by means of the next freight-train, which
would be leaving in a couple of hours' time. In tlu'
meanwhile I went sho|)piug, to try and gee something
suitable for Clive to eat, and succeeded in securing
some eggs, bread, and milk. One way and another
we had plenty of occupation until the time came
for returning to Elkhorn. We reached it at 1.10,
having left Virden about 11.40, and found that Power
and Mitchell had already started off for the Assiniboiue
farm ; but they had first procured us a two-horse
waggon, which was in readiness to take us over.

The prairie road was very rough indeed — too rough,

I fear, lor poor Clive, who was rather weak after his

late attack ; however, he thought jDcrhaps it was, on

the whole, a good thing to experimentalise, so that he

might see whether he was likely to be fit for the longer

journey (viz., the drive through Southern Manitoba)

which we propose attempting to-morrow, starting from

Brandon.
T 2

f 3

;

292 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

i:.

Duriug our drive we saw a very large badger,
and got quite close to him; and also noticed a good
many musk-rats' nests, and saw some prairie-fowl, and
a few gophers. On arriving at the farm, after an
eleven miles' drive, we were met by Mr. Power and
bis brother; they had just completed their new frame
house, which was quite a smart place, with a verandah
running round it, made out of rough wood with the
bark left on. We were regaled with some buns and
capital butter, and a little drop of Scotch whiskey.
The latter was a great treat after our experiences in
the North-West Territory, where nothing of the sort
can be obtained. Next we went to have a look round
the farm, which belongs to Mr. I^inkin, M.P. for
Leominster, and a neighbour of ours in Herefordshire ;
it is under the management of Herbert l^ower. Uankin
has now about 11,000 acres here, but it is a good
deal cut up by other settlers' holdings and claims ;
1,700 acres of it are now broken, of which 140
acres are wheat and oats. Upon taking to a prairie
farm of virgin land, the first operation is to do what
is called " breaking," which is to turn over the top
soil about two inches deep, and twelve inches broad;
this is done about the months of June or July. Next
comes the " back-setting," which is ploughing between
the above-named slices, and thus turning the under-
soil to the top ; or rather, in some cases, wedging it up.

MEDICI^E HAT TO BliAXlJUX.

2U3

good

Back-setting- commences iil)out August, and the land
is lit for cultivating and seeding about the following
April or May. We saw some excellent crops of wheat
and oats on this farm — the best, indeed, that we have
hitherto seen in the North- West. I took some samples
away with me, and also a sample of the hard soil. Ived
Fyfe wheat is the seed used about here, and all
the railways in Manitoba and the North-West trans-
port this wheat for seed free of charge; Mr. John
Ogilvy, a miller, whom we met at Portage la Prairie,
said he could give fifteen cents per bushel more for
this than for Ontario wheat. A good deal is being
done altogether on this farm ; ten small houses for
settlers are being erected at Mr. llankin's expense, with
a view to working the land on the half-profit system ;
a plan which is much in vogue, and is gradually be-
coming popular amongst American farmers farther
south. The sites for these houses are well chosen.
We had noticed them as we drove up to the farm, and
they looked larger then than they in reality were ; for
it is a remarkable fact that, on a prairie, things seen
from a distance always appear to be to a certain degree
magnified in size. Power's own house is situated on a
blufi' overlooking the Assiniboine river, which here
makes some very sharp bends. The valley is rather
like Qu'Appelle, only not quite so deep, and without
the lakes ; on the southern bank of the river there are

ill

2!I4 LIFE JXn LABOUR IX THE FAh', FAU WEST.

a <,^oo(l many trees, but the nortliern side is bare. The
larm is considered in Manitoba to be well managed, and
the hmd judiciously selected. I liked the position and
looks of the estate fairly well ; but should not myself
consider it tlie best, either in position or quality of
soil, to be had in Manitoba. There were comparatively
few settlers round, and those there were lived some
distance apart.

We were much troubled by mosquitoes in the after-
noon, more so than usual, and yet it was not very hot.
l*eturning to the house, we had some more refreshment
before starting off at 6.30 p.m. for Elkhorn. On the
way back we had some conversation with our driver,
who himself farmed 900 aci'es ; he implied that the
land here would not bear constant cropping, but that
after three crops it " lost heart ; " and he added that
it was the worst country for weeds that he had ever
been in. Altogether, he did not seem much pleased
with his location, and complained that last winter the
thermometer went down to very far below zero, and
that the bits froze in the horses' mouths. It appeared
that besides being a farmer, he was a livery-stable
keeper ; and he said that in winter-time they had
always to put the horses' bits into hot water before
using them, in Cxder to try and prevent their freezing.
Olive was apparently none the worse for the drive,
though a little tired by the bumping, of which we

:f\

^rEDICIXE HAT TO BRAXDOX.

205

img.

five,
we

had had a good deal ; while we wont round Mr.
llankin's farm, he had accompanied us on a pony, and
had enjoyed himself very mu'^h.

Mr. Jaffray reached Elkliorn in due course from
Broadview on a freight train, and joined us in the car,
and we then proceeded eastwards towards Hnindon,
hooked on to the same train, leaving Elkhorn about
10 p.m. Upon awaking the next morning we found
that we had arrived at Jirandon some time in the course
of the night. I had again slept on my buffalo robe on
the floor of the car, having given up my bed to Clive
since he rejoined us. The latter had insisted on going
to Power's on the previous day, but he did not
seem this morning any the better for it, and the
question now arose whether he should attempt the
contemplated drive south from Brandon to ^lanitoba
City, via Deloraine, or go on direct to Winnipeg by
rail. We did not know the exact distance of this
proposed trip, but assumed that it must be at least 150
miles; and in reality it proved to be about 170. Clive
eventually decided not to risk the long drive, but to go
back direct to Winnipeg in the car, and I cordially
agreed with him that this was the best course to take,
and offered to go back with him , but this he would not
hear of, saying that there was really no occasion for it.
We settled therefore that he should go quietly back to
Winnipeg, get his prescription renewed, and most likely

! i

} ■■ ^

7.!fc

I m

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

come on in the car the following day but one, to meet
us at Manitoba City. If he did not feel up to this, he
would wait at Winnipeg until our return there. He
did not anticipate being seriously ill, but we thought a
day's rest would do him good; and as others of our
party were also going on direct to Winnipeg in the car,
lie would have companions on the journey, and he tele-
graphed on from here to Mr. Brydges at Winnipeg,
asking him to put down his name at the club.

Soon after we had settled all this, I met Colonel
Williams (who was one of those of our party who had
preceded us to Brandon). He had engaged a con-
veyance for our contemplated trip at ten dollars per
day, and a "trifle" for the return journey. Upon in-
quiry, however, we found that the so-called " tritle"
really represented another ten dollars a day, which
made the sum asked equivalent to twenty dollars (i.e.,
£4) per day ; and the carriage and pair of horses were
but poor ones. We made the man what we considered
a fair offer of forty-five dollars, equal to fifteen dollars
a day. This he accepted ; but he never turned up at
the time arranged, so evidently, on considering the
matter, had thought differently of it. Eventually I
went with Mackenzie round the livery stables, and
finally agreed with a man to take us through from
Brandon to Manitoba City, via Deloraine, for fifty
dollars.

i=>>

ered
)llars
p at
the

y I

and
rom
fifty

MEDICINE HAT TO lilUXDON.

297

Brandon itself seemed to be a very risin^^ place, in
fact, quite a " city," as it boasts two or three well-laid-
out streets. Two years ago, at the time of my previous
visit to America, there was only one house here, and I
remember being told of thirteen travellers having to
share one room. It is now a kind of centre for this
part of Manitoba, and contains no less than thirteen
livery stables, which here are horse-dealing repositories,
as well as places for hiring vehicles. At 11.30 we were
all ready for a start, with a capital waggon (on
springs) and a good pair of horses , so, wishing the other
occupants of the car good-bye, Mitchell, Mr. Jaffray,
and I set off' for Manitoba City, Olive meanwhile stand-
ing at the car window, waving us an adieu.

ill

'ft

'•t

1 ii

1 1- ;

1 -1

MS'

!?»

j ,1

ti *

I '-

t: •'!

CHAPTER XX.

ip' 'i

\ i'

HV KOAI) TO CAUTWHKillT.

ritnn Crt'ck — Across tlic Soiiiis— A I'ruiric Fire- Soil r. Wood Iliits— Kx-
pt riciiccs of Sittlris--A Novel Mcthdd of Ilcnliiif^ Cows— Wcliiniiii

llosjMtality — " ISiicliclois Home - 1 iiitlc .Moiintimis-Dcloiainc- Ann-
cultural Notes— I )csfonl — Wakopa — Cartwri^lht — A Tij;' in tlu^ Wroiii!;
I'lace-No .Medical Aid.

On leaviii<2^ Hrancloii — close to which flows the Assiiii-
boine lliver — we siiw the IJrandon Hills in the distance,
whence the wood supply lor the town is brought.
The soil in this part seemed lij^ht and sandy, and the
difl'erent crops we passed outside the town were not
very good. We saw hemp, potatoes, wheat, and oats ;
but the latter were bad, dirty and weedy, and the grass
land also appeared poor. There were quantities of
prairie roses about ; and these flowers are, I think, the
prettiest things I have seen either in the North-West
Territory or in Manitoba. Apparently there were but
very few cattle, but those we saw looked fat and well.
Considering the proximity of a place like Brandon, I
thought very little land was broken in proportion to the
extent of the prairie ; and of what was taken up, hardly
any was fenced in. Hay-cutting was in progress ; but
the grass was very short, and it was only in patches

IJY ROAD TO CAUTWHianT.

•2!)S)

iriits-Ex-

— Wck'diuc
lillr Ai;li-
lld Wldliy

Assini-

istance,

I'ouj^ht.

and tho

?re not

1 oats ;

e grass

ties of

ik, the

i-West

re but

well.

on, I

to the

lardly

; but

tches

liere and there, on plots of <,n*oun(l that lay a little below
the general level of the prairie, that it was being mown
at all. Altogether, the soil round Hrandon did not
strike me as being very good, and several crops of oats
which we passed were both dirty and weedy.

We arrived at Plum Cnu'k, twenty-live miles south
from Brandon, at about .'i..'5() p.m., not having pas.sed
anything of especial interest on the way, for the prairie
was open. Hat, and treeless, and the nature of the soil
did not vary much in that distance. At l*luui Creek,
however, there were a few trees (as usual indicating a
river) down by the water's edge. The place itself was
quite a nice little settlement, with a very fair hotel.
The Souris river flows past here, and Plum Creek runs
into it.

We made a halt at this place for luncheon, and to
rest the horses a little ; and started on again at
4.15 p.m., having first to cross the Souris in a ferry-
boat. The river winds here very much, and is really
quite pretty. The lands adjoining it looked good and
lie well, but are uncultivated, therefore probably they
are being held by some speculator, otherwise a fine
settlement might be formed here. There were a great
many trees on the river banks ; and these were to us
quite a refreshing sight, after having seen nothing but
bare prairie in all directions for so long. Presently we
passed by the commencement of a prairie fire. The

; \
i

if.) 1
till

ii
4

I .»

i ■•

iVi

5.-'.'

aoo

iJi'ii' .IA;^ LABOVlt JX 'lllE FAIi, FAli WEST.

surface of the grass looked green and bright enough,
Ijut underneatli was the hist season's dead grass, which
was all ablaze. This, when thoroughly ignited, sets lire
to the green grass also ; and the ashes of the two com-
bined will tend to form another thin layer on the pre-
sent peaty surface of the prairie, which is thus the
result of successive ages of prairie fires. How long the
fire of which we saw the commencement would burn, or
how far it would spread, it is impossible to say ; but we
were told that, in all probability, it would extend for
miles, and last until rain fell.

We drove south over the open prairie for eight
miles before coming to any house, or attempt at cultiva-
tion ; then we reached some land occupied by a small
settler, who had good crops of wheat and oats. The
man came in June, 1882, and the crops we saw were his
first. His house, instead of being built of wood, was
formed of sods like an Irish cabin, and the stable was of
the same material. Each man, of course, lias his indi-
vidual taste ; but I am not at all sure but that these
sod huts are warmer than the wooden ones. A stone
house is almost unknown on the prairie. Many of
the frame (or wooden) houses have one or two furrows
ploughed round them and their buildings, in order to
prevent encroachment by prairie fires.

The settler in the turf hut had a wife and a large
family of children. They seemed well satisfied with

rr.

enough,
;, which
sets lire
.^o com-
iho pre-
;ius the
ong the
Jiirn, or
but we
end for

r eight

cultiva-

a small

The

^ere his

)(1, was

was of

indi-

these

stone

my of

irrows

der to

large
with

BY ROAD TO CAUTWlUdUT.

301

everything; and, certainly, if the possession of a good
number of children couhl conduce to tliis, they had
reason to bo content. Their only complaint was tliat
the water in their well was bad. They came from
Ontario, — as was the case with the next settler w(^
reached — a young fellow of the name of Rose, whose
place was twenty-eight miles fn^m Brandon. He was
living by himself, which must be rather solitary work
(especially when one considers the long winters) ; but
when we asked him how he liked the country, his answer
was " First-rate." His crops of the first year's breaking
were as follows : peas indifferent ; but oats, wheat, and
barley, all good. Soon after leaving him we came on a
buffalo trail — an old one, of course, for there are no
buffaloes about here now, and indeed there are very few
left anywhere, and they will, I suppose, not very long
hence, be an extinct race.

At the next place we stopped at we found another
Ontario man, named Gibbs, who also said (as Hose had)
that he liked the country first-rate ; his crops appeared
flourishing, and he was fortunate in another respect, for
he said the water in his well was good. After leaving
Gibbs we saw no more settlers for eight miles, until, at
8.30 p.m., we reached a Mrs. Weightman's house,
where we asked, and received, permission to put up for
the nijjht. We had driven in all fortv-seven miles from
Brandon; viz., Brandon to Plum Creek, tvventv-five

!:i|

1.,

;{(>j

/-///; .i.\7) L.nioL'u i.\ Tin: /.I/;, iwi: wi:st.

miles; on to Miites's, c'lL^'lit miles; to (lihhs's, six miles

111

1(1 to Mrs. Weii'litiiiiln'

ei!

rht

miles

Forty

•seven

miles jiltoj4'etlier. Tiie lionse wus merely a wooden
i rained one, ol' tin' usual size, twenty- I'oiir I'eet liy
ei^'liteen I'eet ; and consisted of a livin^'-rooni and a

small room

hel.

t»w, ami one sleepini^-rotun aoo

>ve

aal)l

iiii,'' was L,''i)od, l)eiii<j; nnide ol" tnrl' and covered with

loose straw. 'IMie arrani;'ements lor the cows rather
amused ns. They were put in an enclosed j)lace with a
lire in the centre, whicli smoked pretty I'reely ; round
this the animals stood all ni^'Iit, whiskiii^^ their tails,
and thus, aided hy the smoke, mana<.;v(l to keep ott' the
moscpiitoes, of which there appeared to he a i^'reat many
in this part. Smoke is a j)reventivc ai;'ainst these lor-
mentin<j^ insects. Cattle un})rotected in this way would
be much annoyed; and, indeed, it' left out in the open
without any lire, they would stray away I'or miles before
morning;. On examiniiii^ the well I found the water was
bad, as in fact it very often ib throughout all this
district.

Mrs. Wei^htman was very hospitable, and she and
her three daughters were soon busily preparing our
supper. We had a small stock of provisions with us,
and these were also brought into requisition; but even
without them we should have got on very well. Our
driver joined us at supper, Mrs. Weiglitman doing the
honours and pouring out the tea. They had only been

•T.

: mill's ;
y-scvcn
wooden
feci 1)V

•

iiiid a

'. Tlie

ed with

i liithrr

I with a

; round

ir tails,

oil" the

it nuiiiv

esc lor-

wouUl

le open

hefore

ter was

11 this

le and

our

us,

; even

Our

the

been

JIY lH).iU Tt) CAirrWUKlllT.

3ua

here ahout a year, and I think slie hcrscM* ditl not (tare
inueli ahout the eouniry, l)ut slie said iicr sons liked it.
Tliey liad .'iJO acres ainon;^' them. 'Vho, IivinL,'-rooni
was furnished witii a <al»h', two forms, four chairs, and
a eookin;4-stove. There was jih'nfy of cliina, and cvery-
tliin^ was very clean. We niad<' onrselves as eond'ort-
a))le as we eoidd for the ni|^ht, thonL,'h the accommoda-
tion was of course very limited, there hein<^' <*"ly <»'><-
room u|)-stairs, Mrs. Wei^'htman and her (d(h'st
daughter slept (h)wn ludow, in the little room adjoinin<^
tin; iiviuf^-rooni ; and the on(; up-stairs room was divi(h'd
amonj^st the rest ol' us in tin; i'ollowinj^^ rather primitive,
fashion. One part was separated olf hy a blanket hun<^
across a bi'am, and on the fartlier si(h.' of this slept the
two younj^'er daui^hters of the house ; the other part of
the room was shared by their brother (who liad his (h)L,'
as a bed-follow), our three selves, and the driver of our
wag'gon. We, however, each got a separat(; bed so,
on the whole, considered that we were rather lucky
than otherwise; for it must be remembered that we were
out on tlve open prairie, with no other house within
miles of us.

The next morning we were up at 4.30 a.m., and soon
completed our toilettes. The arrangements for wash-
ing were not extensive, and consisted of one iron bowl
placed at the foot of the stairs (with the holes in the
bottom mended with string), and a wooden tub standiuL'

I ■

li tin

30-t LIFE AND LAliOUU IN THE FAR. FAR WEST.

by from wliicli to procure water. Tliese served for the
ablutions of the whole party. Our breakfast was the
usual one of the country — eg<jjs, bacon, and potatoes.
There had been a heavy dew durin<^ the ni<^ht, and it
was a cold morning, but I noticed that the mosquito
lire in the cattle enclosure was still alight. There were
only eleven head of stock altogether. One of tliese
belonged to a neighbour, who, wanting to leave home
for a short time, had sent his cow and pig here to l)e
taken care of

We left Mrs. Weightman's at 0.45 a.m., and started
off on a long drive, not quite knowing where our
destination for the following night would be. The first
sottlers' })lace we came to was three or four miles away ;
it was called " Bachelors' Home," and was held by three
brothers, who had also come from Ontario ; tliese people
were anxious to sell, and to move off elsewhere ; they
asked ten dollars an acre for their land. Their well
was eight feet deep; on examining the water T found
it was but indifferent, and they said there was alkali
in it — which is, I flmcy, a very common complaint in
this district. They had only come last year (1SS2), and
had broken but very little land; but the}^ said they
were getting on "first-rate," which seems the common
Ontario expression hereabouts. In reply to our in-
quiries respecting the method of cultivation, they gave
us the following information ; — June and July are the

! "

>il

1 for the

was tlie
potatoes,
it, and it
mosquito
hero were

of these
}ave home
lere to he

lul started
where our
The first
lies away ;
d hy three
ese people
\ere ; they
Their well
er T found
was alkali
[Tiplaint in
ISS:2), and
said they
e common
;o our in-
they gave
\y are the

BY ROAD TO CAivnvnmuT.

3()-)

hest moiitlis for hreakini*', August and Septemher for
hack-setting. After harrowing in the spring, harley,
wheat, and oats should he sown ahout the lOth of
Miiy. ]*()tatoes should be planted ahout 24th ]\Iay,
and got up ahout 1 5th September. Not long ago a
largo dairy company — called the Morton Dairy Com-
pany — was started n(nir here ; hut I fancy it is not doing
very well. It occupies six to^.'nships (a considerable
speculation) ; wo noticed the tents of the company
in the distance as we drove along. Very little land
appears to be as yet broken in this district, taking it
as a whole ; and the settlers at present on the ground
only came in 1882.

We were now approaching a district well known to
me by reputation, namely. Turtle Mountains, the
southern side of which belongs to the United States.
These mountains are a long range of low hilly ground,
covered towards their summit with scrub-wood. The
point we were making for in our drive was IJeloraine ;
and, in order to reach it, we had to pass through a great
deal of low marshy ground, much resembling an Irish
bog, and almost worthless for cultivation. Hay is
mostly grown on this kind of Jmd, a^ul we saw many
hay-ricks scattered about, but I shr dd fancy the crop
would be of but indilferent quality. Except for this
marshy part, the Turtle Mountain district bears the
reputation of possessing some of the best land in

I ■.

^^''«

80e LIFE AND LABOUR IN TUB FAR, FAR WEST.

it's

Southern Manitoba; and, judging by the number of
houses we saw, the base of the mountains appeared
to be well settled all along their northern side. We
saw a feu crops of oats, but they were all weedy.

The next house we called at was again inhabited
by a settler from Ontario ; here the wife was busy
irrigating the garden, the crops in which were in conse-
quence really first-rate, the potatoes being especially
good. Soon afterwards we reached Deloraine, sixty
miles from J^randon ; it is situated within a few miles
of Turtle ^Fountains, which lie to its south ; on its
northern side is White Lake. We were here only eleven
miles distant from the UiKted States boundary.

The soil in this neighbourhood is too shallow to
bear continued cropping without the aid of manure,
being only a few inches deep; it is light on the surface,
with gravel showing in places. The water-supply is
bad. Thirty miles to the west of this, in the valley
of the Souris river, I am informed that there is some
good land. Settler? have only so recently come into all
the country I have just described, that they could give
no opinion on the question how long it would stand
cropping without manuring ; as far as we saw, the
crops in the first year's cultivation were decidedly good.
Until we reached Deloraine I scarcely noticed any
cattle about. The farming implements were every-
where of a superior description and quality ; the waggons

BY ROAD TO CARTWRIGHT.

307

ber of
)peared
^ We

habited
ls busy
1 conse-
ipccially
e, sixty
\v miles
; on its
ly eleven

allow to
manure,

surface,
upply is
lie valley

is some

into all
luld give
lid stand
Isaw, the

by good.

Iced any
every -

[waggons

being particularly useful little vehicles, set on springs,
so that they can be used either for locomotion or for
hauling crops (they are called "democrat" waggons).
The diminutive dimensions of the settlers' houses are
very noticeable ; the usual size is twenty-four feet by
eighteen feet, and many are much smaller. There is
no variety whatever in style ; every house being of
exactly the same pattern, and all built of wood, with the
exception of a few which are made of turf. I had
expected, to find some farms of a better description in
a country like this, but in this respect I was disap-
pointed ; and I may apply this observation not to
Manitoba only, but to the North- West Territory as well.
There are several large stores at various points,
where everything — from kettles and pans and draper}-,
to bread, biscuits, and oatmeal — is to be bought. There
was one of these stores at IJeloraine ; but otherwise it
was a poor place, consisting of onl}- about half a dozen
houses altogether. We had reached it at 9.30 a.m. ;
and, after waiting a little to rest the horses, set off again
at 10.15, turning directly eastward along the Commis-
sion trail {i.e., the road used by the Commissioners
when settling the Canadian and United States boun-
dary), in the direction of Manitoba City. No one
could tell us the distance this latter place was from
Deloraine, but it proved in reality to be about 100

miles. I was anxious to see this next portion of
u 2

M \

i!r?

1,!

308 LIFE AND LABOUE IN THE FAR, FAB WEST.

i!i ii

Southern Manitoba, as I was told it bad been settled

alwut five or six years, and I wisbed particularly to

ascertain bow crops would look, on land cultivated for

a succession of years witbout belp from fallowing or

manuring; I tberefore took at tbe time some careful notes.

Witbin a few miles of Deloraine tbere appeared,

in passing along, to be many signs of alkali; almost

everywbere tbere seemed to be a deficiency of water,

and for tbe next tbirty miles of our drive wbat tbere

was was bad, and tbe creeks were dried up. Tbe

(juality of tbe land between Deloraine and Wakopa (a

distance of tbirty miles) varies very mucb ; but none

of it is really deep soil — it is from six to twelve incbes

in deptb. Tbe style of farming was very bad indeed.

Tbe following is a description of some of tbe crops,

taken as tliey came : —

12.10 p.m. Oats bad and weedy.

12.30 „ Potatoes very good ; peas poor.

12.35 ,, Land very dirty ; many holdings abandoned.

12.50 „ Oats and wheat poor and foul ; oats very poor ;
swedes foul ; potatoes bad.

1.0 „ Poor wheat and peas.

1.30 „ Kougli land round new house ; oats good, but
foul.

2.0 „ Oats poor.

2.10 „ Good potatoes ; oats poor ; hay in cocks.

2.20 „ Wheat moderate ; potatoes bad.

2.30 „ Good hay on bottom land.

2.35 „ Wheat poor ; barley and potatoes good

2.40 „ W'heat, barley, and swedes, jjoor ; wheat fair.

settled
irly to
ted for
dng or
I notes,
peared,
almost

water,
it there
, The
\opa (a
it none
? inches

indeed.
' crops,

oor

but

:air.

BY ROAD TO CAUTWIUGUT.

During the whole of this thirty miles' drive, hay-
making seemed pretty general ; hut the corn crops were
certainly hotli bad and backward, and this in a district
which had been settled for five years. When compared
with w^hat we had seen on the previous day on lands
with the first or second crop, the result tends to show
that the fertility of the soil is reduced by constant
cropping without the aid of manure, rest, deeper plough-
ing, or fallow.

Stock was apparently very scarce. In the whole
course of our drive from Brandon to Manitoba City we
did not see 100 sheep, and not more than perhaps 200
head of cattle ; and from Mrs. Weightman's to Manitoba
City we only counted 153 head. A great quantity of
straw is wasted, it being often either left in heaps or
burnt. I have seen heaps of manure lugged out, near
settlements, and left without any use being made of it ;
the only thought, apparently, being to get rid of it.
This is, however, only near so-called "towns," for the
manure otherwise procurable is comparatively nothing,
owing to the scarcity of stock throughout the country.

On our route we passed a store named Desford,
where we watered our horses ; but the water was bad.
A road comes in here from Brandon. The Turtle
Mountains are still to the soutli. We arrived at Wakopa
at 4.30 p.m. ; the inn there was a miserable one, kept
by a half-breed, and the occupants were remarkable for

•4

'IP

4 ^M

i ■

1 i^U'l

.11

1
1

■ t

310 LIFE ANV LABOUR IN THE FAlt, FAR WEST.

')!

their dirt. Eound Wakopa there is a g-ood deal of
scrub-oak ; but the whole of the hind between this place
and Deh)raine was decidedly of an indilferent quality,
and, where farmed, had apparently deteriorated in value.
The scarcity of cows, and also of poultry, was explained
to me as being occasioned by the very small propor-
tion of women among the settlers ; however this may
be, the fact is clear that there certainly is a great
scarcity of both, or rather of all three. We left
Wakopa at 4.30 p.m. for Cartwright, twenty-eight
miles farther on, which would make the total distance
traversed to-day seventy-six miles — a long run for one
pair of horses ; but the roads, though only beaten
tracks across the prairie, were so good, that they did
not sutler ; and we ourselves were not bumped about,
as has been our fate on previous occasions. When it is
dry, and there are no ruts, the beaten prairie makes as
good a road to travel on as I know anywhere.

Near AVakopa we noticed some lovely prairie flowers
and roses ; the latter, especially, were very beautiful.
Continuing our drive, we struck some excellent grass
land, which we traversed for about eight miles ; it
would make a fine cattle ranche. For a time we passed
hardly anything but grass ; except for two patches of
wdieat (both of wdiich were bad), there was very little
broken gr(jund. Then the country became more hilly,
and tile soil again shallow ; it deteriorated thus for

leal of
s place
uality,

value,
olainctl
propor-
is may
, great
Ve left
y.eiglit
listance
for one

beaten
ley did

about,
en it is

ikes as

lowers

autiful.

grass

les ; it

passed

dies of

y little

I hilly.

lus for

BY ROAD TO CARTWUliillT.

311

about throe miles, and then improved again as we
descended from the higlier ground, continuhig to im-
prove until we reached Cartwright. During the last
few miles we traversed very undulating hilly ground,
intermixed with small tarns. 13ut little land was
broken, and tliere seemed to be hardly any settlers ;
some we met at a place called Smitli's, fourteen miles
from Cartwright, told us that there had been no new-
comers into the district of late, for the land was all
taken up, and was, for the most part, held by specu-
lators. This seems to be a great l)ity, and I do not
think it ought to be allowed.

Between AVakopa and Cartwright the grass was
remarkably green, and, ibr feeding purposes, this would
be a good country to settle in ; indeed, a large cattle
ranclie would be just the thing for this district, for the
prairie is good and well watered, especially for the last
five or six miles on nearing Cartwright, where there are,
as I said, quantities of small ponds about.

A little incident happened during our drive which
rather amused us. Some water was wanted, and Mr.
Jallray and jNIitchell went to a well to procure it,
when, to their surprise, they found a live pig at the
bottom, which had fallen in. Of course, after this un-
expected occupant had been got out, there was no telling
whether the watc tasted of alkali or not.

Another circumstance also occurred here. We called

1 ■

i ^

'M2 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WFST.

at a settler's house, tlie inmates of which were in <;roat
<Hstress. A poor child was dyin.L^, and tlie niotlier
appealed piteously to us to know if any one of our
party hap})ened to bo a doctor. It appeared there was
no medical assistance within miles of the place. Unfor-
tunately, neither of us luid any medical knowledge, and
we coidd be of no use to them, though we deeply sym-
pathised with them in their trouble.

— !

motluT
of our
.»re wiis
Unfor-
^e, and
y sym-

CIIAPTKR XX r.

CARTWRKillT TO MANITOBA CITY.

Famicr.s Wanted T^ilioiir anil Tiivinj^'iit Ciirtwrij^ht — (Jcncml As]n<t of Soulhom
Miiiiitolm ( (Ip.sciviitions (in tho Cn)])H' I'l'iiilmm Ciossing— A DiMcontontud
SuttltT Slimitoliii City.

As we drove on, we passed two cr()j)s of oats ; botli
sections liad been broken the ])revious year, and in each
case the crop was very <^ood. We arrived at Cartwright
at 8.55 p.m., havin<^ driven seventy-six miles in all
since leaving Mrs. Weightnian's. The day's journey had
been most interesting and instructive ; giving us, as it
did, a good opportunity of noticing the difference
between crops grown on newly-turned ground, and those
grown on ground worked for successive 3^ears, The
settlers who had come in 1882 certainly had the best
crops ; those raised by people who had been there four
years or more were always inferior, and in some cases
bad; therefore I concluded that after taking oiT two
crops, the soil in all this district begins to fail and get
weak, for lack of manure, deeper ploughing, or fallow-
ing. Our fellow-traveller Mr. Jaff ray's reriirk was,
" A good many of the settlers are not farmers "; in my

■I

M t

I ■

( -

:ui /,//■'/•; AXi> i.Mun i: is tiik r.\i:, iwu wrsr.

\ i

opinion, as far as tlio soction of ilio countiy (tliiriy
miles) Ix'tuocn Dclorainc and Wakojia is concerned, tlic
land is Ijcin^- ruined by small men with small means,
and tliere is too little ol' the real larmin^" element about.
Another ^n-eat evil tliroUL>;h«)ut the country, is the way
in which lar<4'e tracts of land arc boui^'ht and iield idle
by sjx'culators ; proofs of which wu saw during the
latter part of tliis day's drive.

On reach ini; Cartwrij^ht, we ])ut u]) at tlie lieacon
House, kept by pcoi)h' of the name of Robinson; it
was about lialf as lar^-e attain as Mrs. Wei^-htman's,
and Mr. JalVray got a room to himself. Mitcliell and
I, liowever, again sliared our rt)om with the driver; but
we soon ])ut the himp out, and there was plenty of
ventilation, so we were very comfortable. The weather
these two da} s has been perfectly charming, neither too
hot nor too cold, but just pleasant for driving. Wc
only wanted Clive with us, for it was all just what
he would luivo liked to have seen, and it would have
interested him extremely. Our coachman, who was
an intelliivent fellow, had never been over the road
before, and was highly delighted with the outing,
enjoying it and entering into everything with as much
zest and interest as we ourselves did. lie told us that
his wages were thirty-five dollars (£7) a month, and his
board ; good wages we should say in England, but
not much when compared with what our British

CMiTWUKlUT Tn ^fiXirnni (ITY.

31.'

(tl.irty
('(1, tlio
means,
about.
10 way
■Id idle
IILT tlio

Hcacoii
son ; it
tman's,
lell and
or; but
cnty of
vcathor
hor too
■. We

t wbiit
d bave
K) was
e road
outing,
s niucb
us tbat
uid bis
Lid, but
Britisli

CoIund)ian (b'iver bad, viz., £1(1 a niontli and bis
l)()ard.

Tb(» ])ro|)ri('i()r of tlie inn gave me tbe roHouiiig
inlbnuatiou, wbicii is interesting, and it en(b>rses tlie
opinion I liad |)revio\isIy formed: — "Tbe best crops
ol' wbeat are o])tained from well-ljroken and back-set
lands, and, after a second or tbird crop, tbe soil recpiires
eitber deeper plougbing or manuring. Tbirty-five
busliels of wbeat to tbe acre is considered a big yield ;
of oats, ().') to 7 !■ busbels ; and of potatoes, .S.')() busbels
to tbe acre — (iO lbs. to tbe buslwl. llay-barvest in
tbis part is in 'July and August, and wbeat-cutting
at tbe end of August, and in September. ^Pbe follow-
ing is tbe system adopted for planting potatoes: — break
and back-set in tbe ordinary manner, tben barrow in
s])ring, plougb in furrows, aiul place tbe seed in tbe
furrows niaking anotber furrow to cover it. ^i^his is done
in ^lay. Afterwards barrow over tbe ground witb a
ligbt stick-brusb barrow. 'IJreaking' is usually two
incbes deep, and 'back-setting' tbe sanu?. Last year
tbere was a good rainfall west of Deloraine, but tbis
was not tbe case to tbe cast of tbat })lace ; tberefore tbe
crops to tbe east {i.e., in tbe country we luive just
passed tbrougb) were })robaljly not so good as usual. I
was glad to lind an excellent spring of water at Cart-
wrigbt, tbe best I bave tasted in jNIanitoba. Tbis town
is forty-seven miles from a railway station, and tbe

•

Milk,

2f< conts.

Sii<,'(ir,

12.\ ci'uts.

Un-iid,

5 cents.

Jiucuu,

25 ci'iits.

316 UFE ASD LMlOl'lt IN Till: FAL', FAR WEST.

prices of provisions tlu-rc at tlic time of our visit were
as follows : —

IJuttcr, pt'rll)., 2.') rents.
Kj,'j,'s, jicrdoz., 2.') cents.
IJeef, per II)., IS eents.
Flour, por c\v t. , 2 dols. 2j auits.

The next day (Au<,nist 4) we were up at live a.m.,
and set olY two hours later. The creek whicli runs by
Cartwri<^lit is called the I3ad<:jer Creek, or Long liiver.
Our intention to day was to drive forty-seven miles,
from Cartwrjolit to Manitoba City; where we were to
meet our oflicial railway car, and we hoped also to
fiad Meysey Clive awaiting us there, with Mr. Jalihiy's
party. We were told that we should pass through
a finer country than any we had hitherto seen, and
this we found to be the case. Some of it had been
settled for five or six years ; so I shall again have
recom'se to my note-book for observations on the
state of the crops, in order that an opinion may be
arrived at by the reader. On first leaving Cartwright,
we drove across a considerable stretch of uncultivated
prairie — all grass, with low hills, broken ground, and
ponds of water — a district admirably suited for cattle-
ranching purposes. There were plenty of wild duck,
&c., on the ponds, and they are now protected by the
game laws up to September 1st. Southern Manitoba
is quite a different country to the North- West Territory;

lit wcro

cents,
cents,
ccnta.

Cl'lltS.

ve a.m.,
runs by
^ River.
I miles,
were to
also to
Jallray's
tlirou<(li
11, and
id been
have
on the
ay be
vvriglit,
tivated
lid, and
cattle-
1 duck,
by the
mitoba

ill

CMrrwuiciiT to maxftoiia city.

:U7

•ri

tory;

it is all much greener, and the prairie grass is longer
and better. It appears a sad pity that the district is
not more extensively scttlecl, and that there is so little
money in 't ; the settlers whom we saw seemed but
little above lIic labouring classes, and had ajiparently
no capital to spend on their farms, either in improving
the land or in buying stock.

The first cro])s w • passcnl were oats, and were of
good (piality. Next we came to a settler from Ontario,
who broke up his ground last year, and had some sjilendid
crops. His lands were fenced in, which was (juite the
exception ; for, both yesterday and to-day, almost all the
land we saw was unenclosed. At 9 a.m. we came upon
some bad oats, a second crop ; 9.5 a.m. oats good, but
wheat poor. About 9.25 we passed a little ])lace called
Clear-water, with some good unl)roken prairie land in
its neighbourhood. Ten minutes later we reache<l
Crystal City, a town consisting of about fifty houses
and a mill ; and here we came into a good country,
though I do not think that the prairie was superior to
that I had noticed between Wakopa and Cartwriglit.
In Crystal City itself I found nothing attractive ;
indeed, I was rather disappointed with the place. Some
of the inliabitants were amusing themselves by playing
quoits with old horse-shoes ; so, as I had anticipated,
in reply to our questions we were told that " business
was slack." We bought some oats for our horses at

I -il

f«;

1 if

1
f

t i'

H i

318 LIFE AND LABOm IK TUB FAJl, FAll WEST.

thirty-five cents (Is. 5|d.) per busliel of thirty-six
pounds to the bushel. It had been told us that the
land round Crystal City was some of the best in
Soutliern Manitoba ; nevertheless^ n ^ood deal of it was
abandoned, and out of cultivation. There was a small
creek below ti^e town, but the water in it was low and
discoloured.

llesumin*^ our drive at 10.45, we still travelled
along the Commission trail ; which was i^ood, except
when we had to cross the " sloughs," i.e., water-ditches
and swamps. They were luckily almost dr}^, but still
sometimes we sank in pretty deep ; — m the spring,
getting over tlie^^e slcmghs must be terrible work, and,
I should think, sometimes quite dangerous. The fol-
lowing is an account of some of the crops we passed,
taking them as tlie}^ came : —

11.0 a.m. Open prairie, with good grass.

11.10 „ Wheat, barley, and oat.s, all good.

11.4;") ,, Wheat, barley, and jHitatoes, good; oats,
generally good, but bad in places ; tikiished
seeding May i!Gth. This farm had been
worki.'d two yt^ars

11.50 ,, Bai'ley and oats, good; wheat, fair.
1.30 p.m. Oats and wlieat, good.

This last was at a settler's called Kelanville, where we
halted for an hour and a half to rest the horses. The
water here was bad. We ascertained that the depth of

'ST.

lUirty-six
that the
best in
of it was
s a small
; low and

travelled
)d, except
ter-ditches
, but still
le spring,
work, and,
The fol-
sve passed,

I , oats,
kinished
Id been

I where we
^es. The
depth of

CART WHIG FIT TO MANITOBA CITY.

31U

the soil varies from eighteen to twenty-four inches.
The owner told us that lie had cultivated 110 acres for
four consecutive years with a straw crop, and found that
the best yield had been the first year after breaking ;
after four years his crops began to fail, and the land
now required rest, deeper ploughing, or manuring;
wild buckwheat and lambsquarter-weed had made their
appearance, both bc-ing very injurious weeds — especially
the latter, when allowed to go to seed. His farm
certainly looked in a terribly wild condition, and the
crops were very bad indeed.

On leaving him we came, at 3.15 p.m., on some
barley, oats, and wheat, all of which were good; and, a
(juarter of an hour later, we crossed some good prairie
grass, where there were very few settlers. Then we
reached Pembina Crossing, and had to descend into a
wide valley with high banks on each side between
which the river llowed, thus reminding me rather of the
Qu'Appelle and Assiniboine Valleys. Here we again
saw some beautiful wild llowers. Crossing the river by
means of a very rickety old bridge, we ascended the
opposite bank, and then came upon some particularly
good land ; though it appeared to be in want of rest,
having been cultivated lor five years. It belonged to
one of the few discontented settlers we saw during our
whole tour; he had just sold his property, and was
going oft' to Dakota. The following are my notes of

i'p

"SI

■'[!

I
1 . 1

' : I

■V,

320 LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

the crops of another farm, which had been settled five
years, taken as we drove along : —

5.0 p.m. Wheat and potatoes, good; orts and wheat,
poor ; oats, fair ; wheat, bad ; potatoes, very
good indeed.

5.5 „ Wlieat, barley, and potatoes, good ; oats, fair.

5.10 „ Wheat, bad ; grass, good.

5.30 „ Wheat, oats, and grass land, all good.

5.50 ,, Barley and wheat, good; oats, bad; bearded
wheat, fair.

Most of this land had been settled for five years.
A great many weeds, and especially wild buckwheat,
v/ere visible in the crops. We spoke to a settler of
five years' standing, who told us the same thing as all
the others had done ; viz., that after a certain time his
crops fell off, and weeds were now getting ahead of him.
It will be noticed that potatoes were invariably good ;
and this I attribute to the extra depth of soil turned in
planting them, in comparison to what is required for
wheat, barley, or oats. We reached Manitoba City,* or
rather the station on the South-Western branch of the
Canadian Pacific Railway, at G p.m. It is three miles
from the actual "city" itself, which latter consisted
of but two houses and a tent. The distance here
from Brandon, via Deloraine, is altogether 170 miles ; by
the direct route it is only ninety-six miles, but, had we

* The name, Manitoba City, has now been changed to Mauiton. This
must not bo confused with Mauiton, Colorado, U.S.A.

led five

heat,
very

Fair.

larded

ve years,
ckwlieat,
settler of
ng as all
time his
d of liim.
►ly good ;
turned in
uired for
City,* or
111 of the
•ee miles
lonsisted
ce heve
lies ; hy
had we

liton. This

CARTWlilGHT TO MAXITOUA CITY.

;]2l

gone by this shorter way (which I think is v/'tf Milton)
I believe we should not have seen so good a country.
The followinsr is a list of the distances driven : —

iiugust L'lui, iimrsuay. i;,,;^'

lisli Mih"<

Brandon to Plum Greek

•2'>

Plum Creek to Bates'

Bates' to Gibbs'

Gibbs' to jMrs. Weightman's ...

August 3rd, Friday.

Mrs. Weightman's to Deloraino

Deloraine to Wakopa ...

Wakojja to Cartwright ...

•js

August 4t]i, Saturday.

Cartwright to Clearwater

Clearwater to Crystal City

Crystal City to Pielanville

1')

Relanville to Pembina Crossing

Pembina Crossing to Manitoba Citv * ...

Total

170

The cost of this expedition was fifty dolhirs, and we
gave our driver (whose name was George Wood) three
doUars e.vtra. Business w^as slack at Jh'andon at the
time, and so a reduction was made, otherwist^ the price
asked at first was sixty dollars (€1:2). The horses we
hsid were excellent, and did the journey capitally.

* Now culled Mauitou.

. 1 1

*il

, i n

.:•:-[;

322 LIFE ANB LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAB WEST.

Ji:

On reaching the railway station, we found the official
car had already arrived. I was, however, very sorry not
to find Clive in it ; hut assumed that he had judged it
hetter to remain at Winnipeg for a longer rest, than to
come here with the car as previously arranged. The
party who met us consisted of Messrs. Mackenzie,
Davis, Bath, Stewart, and young AVilliams. We dis-
covered that we could not, as we had intended, return
at once to Winnipeg. We had been told that there
was a train ; hut now learnt that it had been taken otl'
at the end of the previous month, so we were obliged to
remain here until Monday. I was the more sorry for
this, because, as Clive had not come, I was most anxious
to get back to him ; but th^re was no help for it, and
^Ir. Jaffray did not seem inclined to telegraph to Win-
nipeg, to ask if our car might be taken on at once by a
special engine.

official
irry not
dged it
than to
1. The
.ckenzie,
We dis-
1, return
at there
;aken off'
bliged to
sorry for
t anxious
r it, and
to Win-
nce hy a

CHAPTER XXII.

SOUTH KllN MANITOBA — IMIKSENT AND FL'TUIIK.

!M.iit> Ctpital Wiinteil— How Lands arc " S.'ttli'd " in Southern Manitolia A
.Sli()rt->i);hti'il I'olicy -Chavactcr of the Soil — Siii;-i;-('stioMs -A Ui'Mctioii
from tho " Luul-grab '' l-Vvcr— Lockinjj up Land — Lahour in JIanitoba.

In the evening', ^Ir. Jaffray rehited our travels to

the rest of our party ; and then caUed on me Tor my

opinion. A long discussion ensued, for I could not

quite agree with him as to the wisdom of the course

which was being adopted by the settlers ; and we se])a-

raied for the night, both equally unconvinced, and

adhering to our own opinions. The conclusion at

which I had arrived duriuLj; our 170 miles' drive throuii'li

Southern Manitoba, which I had been told bv Mr.

McTavish (the Land Commissioner to the Canadian

Pacific Pailway) was the best soil in the country, was as

follows : It was evident that there was a great want of

capital amongst the settlers, and that the land, to a

very large extent, was not being fairly or properly

treated. From what T noticed, it was apparent that

large tracts of country were remaining undeveloj)e(l,

being in the hands of speculators, who were waiting to

sell again at a profit. Many of these lands were what
v 2

' \\

.iji

d !

321 LTFE AXD LAB OUR IX THE FAL', FATi WE^T.

' !

[! U,

are called "scrip" lands, and wore held without any
oblii^ation either to reside or to cultivate. Scrip bear-
ing so much value, and entitlinj^ to so many acres oi'
land not already taken uj), was issued by the (lovern-
ment a few years ago to certain hall-breeds and retired
members of the mounted police, and soldiers who served
in the lied lliver expedition under Lord Wolseley in
1809 ; possibly also to others. This scrip was saleable ;
and the granter or the purchaser could make the selec-
tion of the land and take it up, free of any conditions
attached of settlement or cultivation.

The bond-fiilr settlers were all, or almost all, of the
same class, holding- from 100 to 320 acres, — an amount
which proved, in the majority of cases, too much to be
held l)y a man with no capital whatever. Nearly all
the houses were built on exactly the same model. They
were of a very humble order, simply framed wooden
buildings ; the usual size was about twenty-four feet by
eighteen feet, but many were much smaller. During
our whole drive I only saw one instance (near Crystal
City), of an attempt at what we should call a farm-
house.

The great majority of the settlers in this part of
Manitoba come from Ontario ; and each man is, in
reality, a speculator in a small way, and is ready to sell,

should a favourable opportunity arise. Having taken
up IGO acres of homestead, and the same quantity of

t any
boar-
:ros of
ovoni-
rotired
soi'vcmI
slcy in
leable ;
■ selec-
ditions

, of the
xmount
li to be
irly all
They
ooden
'et by
Jiirhig
Crystal
farm-

Dart of

1 is, in

to sell,

taken

itity of

SOUTH i:h'x }rAXi'rnnA rnnsExr axd vrrim:. :vj.")

pre-emption land (inakiiii^' ."VCO acres in all), and having-
settled for three years [i\i a total cost to hiinsolf of
abont tS:2 in liard eash), he receives a title, and then
looks round for a ])urclias('r, intending" to sell at a
profit, — usually ten dollars (t.O) an acre, or more if he
can fji-et it. During" th(* three y(\irs he has held the
land, he has taken as mucli out of it as possible; never
thinkinf]^ of fallowim;', manuriui,'-, or cleanslnn' it in any
way. For the first three years after breaking", the crops
are usually ^ood ; but then (or, as I saw in sonu? cases,
even in the second year), weeds bej^-in to i^-row, the most
noticeable and destructive beiuLj;- wild buckwheat and
lamb's-(piarter. The latter is much like an English
dock, and, when it seeds, does endless mischief. Of
course, the only way to i^'et rid of such weeds is to
fallow, and so to kill them before they go to seed, as
they do not spread from the root; and even if the crop
be already sown, should this weed appear, it is worth
while sacrificini^ the seed to accomplish this object.

A casual glance at the wheat, barley, and oats was
enough to enable one to form a pretty good opinion
how often the land had been cropped ; and if on the
same farm, the dilference could be traced at once. Occa-
sional fallowing is absolutely necessary in this country;
deeper ploughing also, or manuring, should be resorted to.
The latter, however, is almost out of the question on any
adequate scale, on account of the small amount of stock

'■ •(■

■f ■

n'2fi IJVE AXT) lABOrn TN THE FATJ, FAT! WEST.

kopt. Tho cliief reasons ai^ainst larij^o herds are —
firstly, want of casli for tl»e primary outlay of Imyinij^
tliem ; secondly, the loni^ winters, which would entail
the further expense of a quantity of huildin;^s in wliich
to house the stock, and the cost of six months' fodder-
in!4'. Owing to their small means, the present race of
settlers find it more feasible, as well as more immediatelv
])r()fitable, to crop as much as they can; and, accordingly,
each year they break and back-set a portion of their 1(50
or .S:20 acres, thus gradually diniinishiug their grass
laiul. This, however, at present makes no difference to
them, for they can as yet cut hay iu the adjoining
neighbourhood at pleasure ; but, in proportion as the
country gets more filled up, this source of supply will
gradually be stopped.

It appeared to me but a short-sighted policy to be
tlnis continnall}' breaking up good grass land, and
turning it into tillage, on apparently no system what-
ever, but just wdierever a crop w^as likely to grow best.
The result of this must be, that a man with a small
holding and a little stock will shortly find that he has
more tillage-land than he can cultivate properly, for want
of manure, and thus, instead of improving, the land
will deteriorate. Every man was open to making a
bargain to sell; instead of looking upon his holding as
a ])ermanent tenure, and a home for the remainder of
his life, and therefore farming the land with the iuten-

arc — ■

ontiiil
whicli
odder-
ace of
liately
lingly,
'ir 1()()
grass
Mice to
oinini^
as the
»ly will

)' io be
, and
^vhat-
^v best,
small
\e has
r want
land
:in<*' a
ing as
ider of
inten-

SOUTHL'nX ^rAXITOllA-rnESES'T AM> FUTVUE. 327

tion of makiui^ tlie Ix'st of it permanently, the idea
always seemed to be to sell at a profit after tlie first few
years, and to move on elsewhere in order to repeat tlie
process. This sort of thini^ cannot lead to the Ix'st
methods of cultivation ; but so many of the orij^inal
settlers did so well, and sold their lands at such a hin'h
profit, ])revious to and duriii^^ the boom of ISSI-.:], tliat
others hoj)e r.o do the same; hence, much of the land has
been unfairly robbed for immediate return, without any
rei^ard to its future.

A ijreat deal of the soil in Southern ^lanitoba is
undoubtedly of lirst-class quality, and very far superior
to anvthiuL'' I saw in the North- West Territorv ; but
it is mostly a grazini,^ country, and this would, in my
opinion, be more profitable than wheat-growini^', which
(accordini^ to the present system of farmiuL;-, at least)
must collapse in a few years. The land is not so deep,
nor so suitable for wheat, as that in the lied River Valley ;
but for stock-raisiui^ it has, in many parts, o-reat advan-
ta<jfes, both from its undulating' character, and the number
of its ponds and creeks ; and now that there is a larjj^er
population in the Dominion, there should be a i^reater
demand for meat. The present settlers, as I have said,
have not enoni^h capital to invest larj^-ely in stock ; but,
should they eventually be able to do so, they will find
that their land is so cut up with ploug-hing that it will
be impossible to keep the cattle ofi' the crops, without

-ill:

wiiMi im

I ^

:?2s /.//7v' .i.v/) i.Aimri: in riii: iwi:, iwu \\i:st.

doinii" a irrcat (IcmI more rciiciiiLr iliiin would \\ii\c Ix'cii
lurcssjiry had the lanii Ix'cii judiciously laid out at first,
— with one ))()rtioii ivscrvid for j^rass, and the arahlc (of
which (here ouiji-hl iiol to he more than is really re-
juircd) all put to^-ether in another. At present, very
littl(« lencinLT is done throuii'liout the whole ol' this
district.

For my ])art, T should like to see one or two superior
Tarnis, of (say) r2,0()() to .'^,000 acres a-j»iece, in every
township. If this class of fanni'ii;' were encouraj^'ed, men
witli more capital, and therefore ahle to ado})t a better
system, would be attracted to the country ; and, follow-
ini;' a hii^'her jj^rade of farmini;- themselves, they mi^'ht
also dilVuse a<»*ricultural knowled^'c anu)ngst the smaller
settlers, the majority of whom are not really farmers
l)y profession, but novices from other trades. This
miii^ht do a vast amount of i^ood, and lead to a dilVusion
not only of knowk di'-e, but of dollars ; for these lari^er
farmers mij^ht be employers ;;f labour the whole year
round, which would be an immense advantai^e to some
of tluMr poorer nei<;'libours, who, without stock and with
their limited means, have hardly enouj^li occupation for
themselves at certain ])eriods, and would be glad of em-
])loyment for their sons for (at any rate) a portion of the
year. The result of this would be that more money would
be brought into the country ; and the extra dolhirs thus
distributed would do endless good in raising tlie tone

This

of the
would
s thus
3 tone

souTiinnN .VAMToitA-nnisuxT and I'lruiii:. :^2y

of the wliolc of this piirt of tlic Dominion, and incrcasinj^
its prosperity.

I also iliink tliatsoin" method mi^ht with advantai^e
l)i> adopted, (or tlie estal>IislimcMit and enconrai^ement; of
small villam'es ; this could he done somewhat on the
Menuonite jjrinciplc, ahout which I shall have more to
say hereai'ter. The houses now are so iar apart that
they look more like liay-stacks, or turi'-heaj)s, spreatl
over the open prairie, than the ahodes ol' more or less
civilised beiui^'s ; and, unless a district hecomes thi(;kly
populated, the childi'en are thrown hack Tor want of
education, and there is a ^reat dilliculty in estahlishiui;'
churches. In the States they say that it" "a church and
a saloon " are started, a po})Ulati(^n will soon ;4'row uj)
round them ; and I lully believe that in Manit()l)a, if a
district were thrown open for the fornuiticui of a villaj^e,
and a church and school erected, settlers would soon be
quite alive to the advauta<^es to be j^ained, and would
strive to locate theuiselves within a reasonable distance.

As rejj^ards the cro})s ; wheat, oats, barley, and
potatoes grow most luxuriantly upon the land when
lirst broken, and for from one to four years afterwards,
according to the depth of soil, i^otatoes, especially, do
exceedmgly well ; I hardly saw a bad crop in all
Southern Manitoba. Those named are the staple crops
of the country, and I particularly noticed that we no-
where came on any clover. Cattle thrive well on the

:t:!()

iii'i: A.\}> i.Muni! IX rill': iwi:, iwu \vi:sr.

j,n'ass(>s; l)ut as to shcrj), I saw so few of tliciu, aiul hoard
so many conflicting,'' oj)inions on the suhjcct, tliat I was
h'(l to assume that they cannot do well. S|)ear-L;rass
^rows in most j)arts; and unless this is cut when
youiii;', ami the i'ei'dini^-ucround thus cut enclosed, it
undouhtediv works havoc amoni; the sheej). If
this y-rass does do the mischief attrihuted to it, it
would he (juiie out of the (juestion to allow sheep to
roam over the prairie, even if attenth'd to by a shepherd.
1 was told also that there was no sale for the wool. It
was easy enoui^h to see, jud^-ini;' by their scarcity, that
there must be some reason aj^'ainst rearing sheep ; but
1 doubt if they have ever n-ally been faii'ly tried, for it
is ])robable that the same reasons of want of capital,
and the expense of foddering' throUL^li the lom;' winters,
api)ly to them as to cattle.

So far as I could jnd^'e, tlie style of farmiuL'- was
generally bad. T ho})e the remarks 1 have passed will
not be thought too severe ; at the best they are only
my own ])rivate opinion — formed- certainly after careful
observation, and a good many miles of travel, — but I
may very likely be wrong on some points. I cannot,
however, say that I think tlie immediate future of
Southern ^Manitoba is as encouraging a prospect as it
ought to be ; for, with such fine lands — easily accessible
to Winnipeg by the railway now open to ^lanitoba
City, and shortly to be extended west to the Souris —

t '\

ST.

lul lioiird
111 r was
car-^Tiiss
lit wluMi
.'lt>si'il, it
cp. If
to it, it
slice]) to
lu'j)li('nl.

V(H)\. It

i'liy, tliat
L'C'p ; but
I'd, lor it
1" capital,
winters,

iiiiin" was

ssed will

arc only

r careful

-but I

cannot,

uturo of

ct as it

ccessible

lanitoba

rjouris —

sornih'ux MASiroii.i-vnicsi^sr asd Frrvui:. 'm\

settlers <»ML;lit to be fltx'kinL,' in. hul the " lan<l-^n*ab "
fever is now over, and lias been followed by a decided
reaction. So niuch land is bcinn* licld unoccupied and
uncultivated, that settlers do not I'eel inclined to come
and buy at \\ price to pay another man's prolit; when,
within a few miles (namely, over the L'nited States
border in Dakota), they can procure e(pially ;;ood land
on reasonable, and indeed liberal, terms. Xot only does
this evil system of lockini,^ up the lands prevent
imiuin'ration, but it also di.sheartens the settlers ab'cady
established. I.i proportion as ]»opiilation ebbs away
from them, so also the civilisation they had expi'cted,
in the shape of education for their (diildren, and cinirch
services for themsi'lves, ceases to be possilde. Jjookin^
at it from a ])ractical ])oint of view, it does not answer
to erect II school or church in a thinly-populated district ;
they nniy indeed be built, but even supposinj^- funds to
be ibrthcomiiii^' to keep them L;"oin^", the lon^ distances
would preclude u ri'i^ular and constant attendance ;
and thus the success would be, at the best, but
partial. 13y ii recent Act of i'arliament, however, lands
have "'■' been thrown open; how lar this will allect
Southern Manitoba I am unable to sa}', but so far as
I could judi^-e, I should think that this would bo
an excellent district for emigration and setthnnent,
provided lands were made obtainable on reasonable
* Since the above was written.

' i w

l«

•

., t

•-■'■''■

' - '. WTWTiw^'Tpr -S" V ■

i*!

888 urr: .ixn LAiiorn ly riii: F.\h\ iwu ir/wv.

t(MMns. All the IVco (u)V('rnm(Mit sections an* already
taken up in this country ; therelore a settler in search
of them must yo farther afield. Many of the larnis
are not as well cultivated now as they were formerly,
for, durinu^ the "boom" of ISSl-.C, numbers of tln^
oriij^inal settlers sold their land to s})eculators ; and
these latter, unable to re-sell them on account of the
reaction in prices, have also failed (whether i'rom want
of knowledi^e, cash, or will, I cannot say) to cultivate
their purchases ; tlie result being that many farms are
at i)resent out of cultivation. A<;ain, some of the men
who sold went west, cxpectini^ to find better hind and
brii^hter ])rospects ; but, comin<>* to the same conclusions
as I did, they returned disai)i)ointed, only to lind no
more land obtainable in the old locality; and thei'e-
I'ore started off for Dakota. This has been told me as
an absolute fact; and it may perhaps, in some nu?asure,
tend to explain why so many Canadians have of late
been reported as leaving Manitoba for the States.

The price of labour in Manitoba, from the artisan
to the labourer, is now everywhere much lower than it
was a couple of years ago ; and at present there is even
a dilHculty in finding employment. ^len employed in
farmhouses obtain wages averaging seventy-five cents
(8s.) to one hundred cents (Is.) per day, with food and
lodging. Servant girls are very scarce, and can earn
from ten dollars (£.0) to fifteen dollars (£3) per month,

'EST.

re a 1 ready

• in search

the larnis

formerly,

■rs of tlie

ors ; and

nt of the

roni want

cultivate

farms are

f the Mien

land and

)nclusions

hnd no

id thei'e-

d me as

measure,

c of late

PS.

le artisan
than it
e is even
)loyed in
ve cents
iood and
|cau earn
r month,

SOUTIIEliN MANITOIJA-rniCSENT AND FUTUh'E. 33;J

with food and lodij'inur. The averaijc rate of vvaj^es
for outdoor lal)our in Manitol)a is now uhout (is.
per day (.'ifis. ])er week), out of which the out<:^oin^s
usually come to :2 Is. per week for hoard and lo(l^-in«^,
and 4s. ])er week for wjishin^"; so that then; is not
much mar<iin left, especially as it must he rememhered
that, durinu^ the winter months, employment at any
price is very hard to ^et. '^IMie loni^ six or seven
months' winter must, indeed, never he left out of the
calculations of an emi<^^nint to these parts ; he^inniiii,^ in
Octoher, it sets in finally h}' the 1st Novemher, January
and Fehruary heiii*,*- the hardest mo)'ths. June is the
wet month of the year.

We slept very comfortably in our car on a siding.

!!' ii

CHAPTER XXITT.

r.XPKlUKNCKS OF TWO SETTI.KllS.

Adviro to Tntcinlini:: Emit^'iint^ — A Piivo rnimd an Kstatc - Pricos of Iinpli'-
iiu'iits and Live Stock - A Fair Profit from a lloldinfj^ of IGO Aries — Find
—\Vci'<ls— Visit to ii Stock Farm— Thu I'rairic Itosu.

I AVAS up the next morning' earlier than the rest of
our party ; and, takin^i^ a stroll before breakfast, noticed
a house rather above the usual size, with a large barn
attached. I walked up to it, and, knocking at the door,
asked to speak to the proprietor. The family were
seated at breakfast, and I was invited to join them,
which I willingly agreed to do. My host was a little
deaf; but after a short time he warmed up, and ordered
his buckboard, offering to drive me round his lOO-acre
farm, an invitation which I readily accepted. I could
see that he was a superior sort of man ; and I thought
(and with reason) that he would be able to give me as
useful and as reliable information about the country in
general, as any one I had yet come across. I ascer-
tained that his name \vas Mr, K. Harnier ; and that
there was a Mrs. Harmer and six little ilarmers ; all of
v/honi I saw.

The children apparently preferred running about

PS of rnijili'-

Ai'lVS — Furl

; rest of

, noticed

ru;e barn

the door,

ily were

n tlieni,

a little

ordered

lOO-acre

I could

thought

me as

lutry in

ascer-

id that

; all of

■ about

EXTElilENCES OF T'VO SETTLEnS.

335

for a portion of the day without shoes or stockings — a
very sensible arrangouKnit, both as regards their health,
and economy in tlie shoemaker's bill. A brotlier-in-
law was staying in the house, and there were besides
two other men, occasional labourers. The house was, as
I have said, lar<;er than the averaj^e size. In addition
to the sitting-room there was a parlour, and, besides,
several bedrooms. The place tdso boasted a beautiful
well of clear, good water, under the sitting-room floor.
With the exception of that at Cartwright, it was the
best well-water I had seen, either in ^Eanitoba or in
the North- West Territory. The adjoining barn, which
cont^'.ined room for a dozen horses, was used besides as
store-room, coach-house, granary, and barn, all com-
bined.

]\[r. Harmer had come about four years ago from
Ontario, and had taken up IGO acres of homestead, and
1()0 acres pre-emption land, near Manitoba City ; nuiking
in all 320 acres. This he liad ke})t and worked for
three years ; when, having got his title and papers, lie
had sold the holding whilst the boom of 18SI-2 was in
full swing, for 12,000 dollars (say £2,400). A settler is
allowed to realise by selling, at the end of three years ;
i.e., on the completion of the settlement clauses, which
entail breaking fifteen acres in three years, a personal
residence of six months each year, and the erection of a
dwelling-house, all within this period of time. The

iTT!

1" H

(, i

i<il

336 LIFE AXD LABOUU IX Till: FAR, FAR WEST.

dimonsioiis of the house must he at least ei<»:liteen feet
hy sixteeu feet. [ am iuformed that fraiued houses
ei<j;-liteen feet hy twenty feet, or twenty-seven feet by
twenty-four feet, cost il^)0 and -*iOO dollars respectively.

^Ir. Harmer proceeded to tell me how, upon selliuuf
his ori<»-inal pro|)erty for 12,000 dollars, he had houi^ht
his present holdinn', an improved farm of 100 acres, for
4,000 dollars. In the autumn of the same year, this
South-Western branch of the Canadian Pacific llailway
had been made. The line passed throug-li his property,
and on it the temporary Manitoba City station was
now situated. He told me he was quite willin*^ to sell
his section to me for 10,000 dollars, if I wished to buy
it. Of the sum ho had received for his orisj^inal pro-
perty, he had invested 9,000 dollars in land — viz., 4,000
in the 100-acre farm, and the remainin<j^ 5,000 in a
stock or graziuL,^ farm (900 acres in all) — reserving the
balance of 3,000 dollars for stocking his land. He
mentioned as a positive fact that when he started in
this part five years ago, he had only ninety dollars in
his pocket.

From all this it will be seen that Mr. Harmer
evidently had an eye for legitimate business ; and I con-
"•ratulated him on his success. He also told me about
his brother-in-law, who had started as a landowner and
settler, with absolutely nothing ; so that when he took
up his homestead, Mr. Harmer had even lent him ten

EXl'EUUJXCES OF TWO SETTFjEHS.

s.\

3cn feet
houses
feet by
jtively.
: selliiii?
boii<^ht
cres, for
ear, this
Railway
)roperty,
ion was
o; to sell
d to buy
nal pro-
z, M)00

00 in a
Iviuijr the
id. He
larted in
(liars in

1 Harm or
Id I con-
ic about
rner and
Ihe took
liim ten

dollars with which to pay the re<j;istration fees. As
regards the payment of the second sum of ten dollars
on the pre-emption land, Mr. Harmer had not at first
been able to advance the cash ; but this loan also was
eventually m.ide. I>y way of re})ayment, the brother-
in-law had worked at the rate of ordinary labourer's
wagvs. When the loan was iv])aid, the land had to be
broken, to meet the settlement regulations; and a house
had also to be built wi<"hiii the prescribed limit of time.
In accomplishing the first, the brothers-in-law helped
each other; the one giving his labour, the other lending
his team for breaking the live acres yearly for three
years. The residence clause was complied with by the
owner digging a hole in the ground, over which he
raised a stick roof, which he thatched with straw; and
here he lived during the si.\ mouths' winter, giving his
labour, meantime, in exchange for his brother's team
work in the previous summer. JJefore the completion
of the specified three years, he was in a position t(»
erect the regulation framed house, eighteen feet l)v six-
teen ; and his property is now worth 3,000 dollars
(£000).

Accounts like these show what can be done ; but I
must own that 1 look upon these men as exceptionally
lucky, and should be very sorry to recommend any one
to attempt settling without sufhcient capital. The re-
marks which I have made on this subject in the part of
w

■'''■ ■US

'MIS

T.TFE AND LAJiOril IN THE FMl, FA It WK^T.

^ ^

i! ii^

h li

my tour (U'sci'ibin«^ tlic Nortli-Wcst ToiTitoiy, will
;il)j)ly (Mjiuilly to this country. Failinj^ a certain
amount of capital, an cniij^'rant had, to my mind, i'ar
hotter start as a labourer, and work liis way up ; and
not take up land until he has laid by something, and is
thorouo'hly acquainted with the country and its re-
sources. Of course 1 do not nu^in to say but that
there are many men, who (like Mr. Ilarmer and his
brother-in-law) have commenced farminj^ with next to
nothing-, and have been successl'ul ; but it must have
been an arduous and upliill task, and would now bo
more formidal)le than formerly, as all the best lands
within reasonable distance of a railway are already
taken up. It maybe unnecessary to add, that none but
those possessed of good health, energy, steadiness, and
perseverance, and who can make light of discomforts,
would have a chance of success ; for this applies to all
emigration in whatever direction ; and, indeed, I may
say it also applies (in varying degrees) to the first start
— the first rung of the ladder — in any trade or profes-
sion whatsoever.

The (government allows settlers a period of three
years in which to pay the pre-emption fees, without
interest. In this part of the country all the free-grant
land is now taken up; and, as far as I could ascertain,
if Cfovernniciit {i.e., free) lands are the object, the neigh-
bourhoods of Qu'Appelle and Moosejaw are now the

7'.

y, will

certiiiu
intl, i'lii*
ip ; and
>•, iin<l is

its vc-
)ut that

and liis

next to
list have

now bo
L»st lands
; already
none but
ncss, and
loom forts,

es to all
(1, I may

irst start

r profes-

of three
without

Iree-grant
scertain,

lie neigli-

uow

the

iJxi'h'L'ii-jxci'is or TWO >'/■; 7' 77. /•;/;>'.

339

most likelv and desirable districts in which to seek lor
them. Mr. liarmer <(ave me the I'ollowinj^ information
as to the averai^'c? and prices oi crops in this part of
Southern Manitoba : —

Wheat, :.'."> to 30 l)lis. per urn

Oiits, fju ,, 70 ,, ,,

J'.arlcy, ;'.r) „ -H) .,

Potatoes, ;J0() „ 400 „ „

7"» crllts (.')S. ) per ]}\\-<
.")(• to .'ill cniits

;u) „ (;o „

(00 llis. to till' 1. 11-,.)

Tiie quantity of seed used should be one-and-a-half
to two bushels per acre. Corn harvest commences here
the last week in August, and ends the last week in
September. Wheat has been known to have been
planted as early as April 10th (this is the earliest ever
known), but the usual time for wheat-sowing- is the
lirst week in May. Hay-harvest is from the middle of
July to the middle of August. Snow falls sometimes
as early as the middle of October, but as a rule n(jt
Ijefore November 1st; and ploughing can occasionally
be carried on as late as the second week in November.
Snow begins to disappear about the middle of April,
and is all gone by the 1st May, the frost being well
out of the ground about here by the middle of the
month, though of course on covered ground — such as
where loose straw has been ])laced irom ricks, after
threshing — it will remain longer.

The buckboard being ready, we drove round the farm.
w 2

:{iO IJl'H AXI) LAIJOUll IX THE FAR, FAR ]VES'J\

lu . i

lit

i I

Harnior ^liid planted his crop of wheat on fh'st breaking
and b.icksetting ; tlie llrst part was excellent, perfectly
clean, and as good a crop as I have seen ; the second
half, however, was only fair, and with many more
weeds. The cause of this difference was explained to
me by the ov uer who said he had planted the good
crop th< iir i ve^k in May, and the other not until the
last week ra iliat month, which was too late; "the
ground, besides, ,'. d not been dragged enough, and
the seed had been slightly damaged." I was also taken
to see the oat-crop, planted on land the second year
after breaking and backsetting. It, too, was excellent,
but a few v'eeds were beginning to make their appear-
ance. The seed is sometimes hand-sown, and occasionally
drills are used. Prairie-roses and all sorts of wild flowers
were here again most beautiful ; it would be impossible
for me to describe the mixture of colours, and the
numerous different varieties. I never saw so beautiful
and varied an assortment in my life.

AVe drove back by the railway station, where there
was a very large collection of farm-implements awaiting
])urchasers. JMr. Harmer explained their different uses
to me, their prices, and the mode of payment.

Cutter and binder. 350 dols. at three yeans' purchase, 7 per ceut.
interest ; worked with either a pair of good horses, or three small
ones ; binds with cord, and will cut and bind 15 to 20 acres a
day.

•eaking
^rfectly
second
Y inor(5
ined to
le good
itil the
;; "the
»'li, and
;o taken
lid year
xcellent,
iippear-
isionally
I flowers
ipossible
and the
)eautiful

ire there
waiting
■nt uses

per cent,
hree small
10 acres a

EXVHIill-JNCES OF TWO SFJTTLFJIS,

341

AVaggon. 90 dols., one year's credit at 7 pt-r cent, interest ; or ^.'>

dols. for cash.
Pl()u<,'li, l!ieiikei', and Haeksetter, '2\ dols., one year 8 credit 7 percent.
Stubldi! IMouxli. IS dols., one year's crtHlit 7 per cent.
Sulky PIou.i,'li. !IU to 100 dols. for cash.
Horse Raki'. :{.") to 40 dols.
Mowers. 80, 'JO, to 100 dols.
Tlireshing Machine, 12 horse-power. 1,200 to 1,400 dols.

I also saw a potato plough, which to me was a
uovelty, and seemed a very useliil inve " n.

Horses cost about £AU apiece, c mvs '20 and up-
wards. As to pigs, Mr. Harmer h;"' ;• »me good large
hogs eleven months old, the price of wi ch was £8 each.
My companion came with me into " oar, witli whicli
he seemed much pleased; and presently olVered to take me
out for a longer drive to see a stock or grazing farm some
six miles away, which he said was (piite a different
country to the corn-growing land we had lately been
visiting. I gladly accepted his invitation; so we set olY
again on his buckboard — a vehicle which gave one the
impression of riding simply on four large wheels, so
small iu proportion was the seat which constituted a
substitute for the body of an ordinary carriage. W«'
started in a northerly direction, following no particular
route, but strikina- across the open undulat

:inii- Drau'ie

where the wild llowers and prairie roses were again
beautiful beyond description ; the roses especially wen*
of every variety of shade and colouring, from pure white

'■ * '

-n-2 I. in: axi» laiidI'I! i.\ riii: r.ii:, I'.ii: ir/.'sv.

f(i a (Icop roil. 'I'iicrc was an al)iiiHlan('(' of s])('ar-;^n'ass
- t»r, as it is also callcil, porciipiiu' n'rass — on the prairie
land, l)\it, none in the scrnl), i.e., lands partly composed
of scrnh-wood, and partly ^Tass.

W'c had a lon«;' talk abont sheep and the elVeet this
urass has on them ; iMr. Ilarmer seemed nncertain
whether it really injnred them or not, and said he meant
to bay some and try the experiment. As rej^'ards eattle,
he was decidedly of o])inion that a ixvcai many more
were re<piired ; bnt he referred to the poverty of the
settlers as the obstacle. Time, he said, wonld work an
improvement in this respect ; for when they became
rich enouii'h to allbrd it thev wonld at once invest
in cattle, as all were of opinion that more stock
shoidd be kept, and a smaller proportion of the land
cn)pped.

We saw straw i!i heaps, lyini^ idle, left from last
season's threshing-; and only in want of stock to turn it
into maniire. JIarmer lamented the present state of
thing's, and the shortness of stock; fully a«;reoini>^ that
the land would not stand continual cropping without
I'ither manuring- or fallowing, lie also conlirmed my
view, that the majority of the settlers were ignorant of
the business of farming; and said they were all short
of cash ; he concurred with nie that it would be a good
thing if more capital could be introduced into the
country, by oil'ering facilities to farmers of a higher

<7'.

■iir-_L,n'iiss
I' prniric

)lUpOS(.Hl

Vcct this
lu'crtiiiii
ic meant
Is catth',
ny more
f ol' tlio
work ill I
became
L' invest
re stock
tlie kind

om last
turn it
tate ()£
w^ that
without
ned my
Ijrant of
11 short
a j^ood
tito the
higher

llXl'KUIENCK^ nF TW'n sr:'iTni:ii>^.

standiuM^ Ibr takini,^ np lands of from .0,00(1 (o .1,000
acres.

We soon rea(jlied tlu; hordc.'s of the grazing I'ountry,
where I found tlie i^rass was two feet hi^Ii, and hip^ely
mixed wiih wild vetches ; hut my companion told uk^
that hiter on I should see something l)etter tlian this.
I'he hay in the " slou^-hs " {i.e., rather lower and danij)
ij^round) will cut from two to three tons jx-r acre, which,
when new, would he worth from three to live dollars
])er ton ; if kept till the sprini,'', however, and if hay
were scarce, it would l)e wtnth from five to ten dulljirs
j)er ton. In j)laces where the red grass grows, Mr.
Ilarmer said nearly four tons to the acre could he cut.
In choosing a stock-farm, it is a good plan to select ii
slough with more hilly lands adjoining; so that the
cattle can change about from the lower to the higher
grounds, and from the long to the short grass, and r/'ci;
rnrsff. I saw ii good example of this during our drive,
but there were unfortunately no cattle to make us(i
of it.

A little alkali was noticeable in the lower sections ;
and, talking of this, Ilarmer said: "Farmers do not
know what it is. It may perha})s be useful eventually
as manure. Grass does not grow well where alkali is to
be found ; but where it does, cattle, horses, and sheep are
all very fond of it, and lick it, and eat even the roots
out of the ground." Indeed, even if there is no grass,

■I

;;m I. in: .wn j.muivu is tiii: r.i/;. r.in \n:sT.

i^\uv\i will lick tlio <;nmiul contniiiiiiL,'' alknli. Ifjjrcscnt,
it is ahvnvs on low ^'round ; thcrdorc in select inLj; laiul
take prairie with both lii,i,'li and low i^round, so that
l,as I said helorc) the stock niiiy have a chani,'e. Ilarnier
went on to say that alkali water woidd do cattle no
harm ; which was contrary to an opinion I had heard
expressed in Montana territory, in talkinj^- ol' alkali,
he spoke ol' " the wh:tt> snhstance like salt " which one
sees left like an encrustation on the dried-np i,n"onnd
where wati-r had ])revionsly l)een standin;jf in pools.
Cattle, he said, licked it up, just as if it were salt
thrown down lor them. An<»ther person told me that
he thou<;ht alkali would disappear, and grass j^row well,
il' the <^round were proju'rly manured; but, as things
are at present, even in a fertile belt of j)asture, the
i»-rass is always short and stunted where alkali shows
itself.

Jn selecting corn-growing lands, it is advisable to
take high, open, rolling prairie, with some scrub upon
it ; and, if possible, in u locality where jirairie-roses and
llowi'i's do well, and are to be found in numbers : some
such land as this we passed to-day. On asking llarmer
what he considered a fair annual profit to derive from a
lOO-acre holding like his, he told me that, after paying
all expenses, labour, ike, he thought 1, ()()() dollars [i.e.,
£.:200) ought to be made. He reckoned the improved
value of his stock as interest on his cajjital. Perhaps

■ I

rr.

|»n'S('nt,
iiil;- laiwl

so lliat
llariMcr
utile no
(I licanl
r alkali,
licli one

•ground
1 pools.
eiv salt
me that
ovv well,
< things
lu'c, tlie
i shows

ahlo to

b upon

|)sos and

some

larnicr

from a

paying

rs [i.e.,

I proved

V'rhaps

i:.\ri:i:ii:\ci:s of twh sirrri.Hns.

(US

I need liardly say tiiat a lar;jfe yearly return like this
would he very successful farniiiiL,'. and everyhody is not
so fortunate as to he able to accon»j)lish it.

I was interested in what he told me of his arran;j:e-
ments for fuel. None is to he had near at hand, and lie
has to go twelve miles to fetch it; if dry, he eouM
haul as much as two cords a-day, hut if wet only one.
A "cord" of wood, as jjrohahly most peoj)le know, is
ibnr feet high, four feet wide, and eight feet long. 'I'his
(juantity woidd last him for two lires for a Ibrtnight.
Wood is worth live dollars (II) per cord delivered; un-
delivered it is half that pricte. 'IMie (iovernment reserves
woodlands, which it sells to the farmers in lots of twenty
acres, at 100 dollars the lot. Tt will also give them
permission to cut for lire-wood at twenty-tive cents (Is.)
])er cord, or rails for fencing at five dollars per 1,000.
There are thus two plans oi)en, viz , to buy from an
owner of woodland, or to employ a num to cut wood ;
which latter costs seventy-five cciits per cord for cutting,
in addition to the Government charge of twenty-five
cents, or one cent ])er rail {i.e., ten dollars per 1,000)
in addition to the Government charge of five dollars.

The sight of a well-cultiviited garden induced us to
call at the house of a settler named Davidson ; he was
very hospitable, and invited us to stay to dinner, wldcli
we did. jMrs. JJavidson was quite a pretty litde woman,
and was the mother of seven children, which is one

;-f

' }

I Bni''

: '' ' tl

! I' ^

ill

:5i.;; /,//■•/•; ,f\7> h.morn i.\ riii: fmi, fm; whst.

more tliMii i\w rci^MiIaiion lunnlxM* in these ])iirts. I
noticed I'lK* lollowini;' crops in the n'lii'deii : — •

<1aiii>i;n No. I.

lli)\v I, Vdhilocs, very L,'i)(i(I.

'J, (',il)lt;i,i;('s,

."), Swfdcs, ,,

•I, C'lnots, ,,

,, r», I'iirsiiips, .,

,, (5, I >('('t root, ,,

,, 7, I'dt.'ltoCH, ,,

„ S, Onions, „

„ i), Swedes, ,,

KIiulMirli, imtso LT'Kul.

(Iahih'.n N(». 2.

I'iirslcy.

Wild l.I.u-k .MiiiMiit.

(Joost'luMTy.

(i.'irdcii cuiTjint.

lladisiics.

'I'oiiijitocs.

All very liiirly <(ood, but not
so tfood iis (lardcn No. I.

Apple li-ecs liiid liccn (lied
twice, liutdid not do well.

Tliero was a iiatunil, and very pretty, border of
])rairie llowers at tlie liead oL" the o-;irden. Davidson
I'anned .")()() aeres ; of wliieli li.OO were lioniestead and
])re-eniption land, and KiO acres he had bono-ht, in iSSl,
I'roni the Hudson's Hay Company. IIv liad besides a
twenty-acre (Jovernnient wood lot, which liad cost him
only one dollar ])er acre, but the market ])rice For which,
buyino- I'roin tlie (Jovcrnment at the ])resent date, would
liave been about live dollars an acre. This wood lot
was seven miles away; on it grew balm of Gilead, po])lar,
and a little oak, the two former being very quick-growing
trees. His timber house was a largo and roomy one,
with barn, dairy, enclosed 3'ard, stable, &c., and he had
built it entirely himself. As he had been located here
for six years, I was anxiom^ to see how his land stood

EXl'KlllKXdE^ OF TWO SETTLKU^. IHT

);ii'ts. I

ilic coiistiint ('''oppiiiir, jiiid my ohscrvations wen! us

follows : —

1. ()a(s, very luul, iif((!r six years' (iroppiii;,', uiid iio iiiiiinirini,' or

fa!l()\viii<^ ; liiit tliry w»'i(! lii;;li in .soiik? plan-s, wImtu huiik; iiiaiiunj

t..

had lii'cii dropped.

2. Harley, very liad, aft(!r liv(! years' (iroppiii-^'.

.'{. < )ats, lair, al'l.-r four years' eroppiiii,'.

•1. Wheat, pretly ijood, at'tei- tliree ycMrs' •.•n)ppiii;f.

Prairi(( ll(»wers weir, most, lovely, and imlieealile evecywliere.

io(l, l)»it not

rdcn No. 1.
1 1 11 tiicil

'JMiis Kc^ttlcr's ol)S('rvation to Harnicr was — " I think

not do well.

border of
Davidson
toad and
in ISSl,
){'sides a
cost him
r wliich,
e, would
wood h)t
I, popUir,

-i^rowmi^

)my one,
d he had
ited hero
nd stood

W(^ sliall liavc to hirm hen; as tl»cv do in the older
countries." 'I'o \\w, he said, " A man, let him work-
ever so hard, cannot produce i\ui same crops tlie third
and ["ouvth years as he can the first and second, unless
lie plants swdes or potatoes between-times." In re])ly
to my question, whether of the two would be best for the
land, fallowini^ or manuring, he was of o])inion that
summer fallowi!ii^ would answer better than manuring;
*' but j)otatoes would take the place of a summer fallow,
for workino- for potatoes acts in the same way (jn the
land as a i'allow." Swedes and turnips are also cleansers
of the land. Answering- my question, whether stock-
raising or the present style of farming would pay best,
he replied — "Stock is the thing, for the land will grow
poor in time with cropping;" and when I asked him
how long he would give it, he said, "Six years." It
must be remembered that the depth of soil here averaged

l!'.

If ^1

I t-

,ili

! i|

'11 :

:i;:

348 TJFE AND LABOUIl TX THE FAJi, FAR WEST.

from ei<4litoen to twonty-four inches, winch was much
tlie sumo as at Mr. liarmer's farm, ai.d in tlie Manitoba
City district ; about JJek>raine and Wakopa it is nmcli
shallower, and continuous croppinjj^ cannot, in my
o})inion, be carried on so long- there with advantage.
Davidson told me that during the six years he had been
located here he had experimented with a couple of acres,
cropping them continuously in the following manner: — •
the first year being " on the sod," that is without
ploughiug, sim])ly sowing on the actual prairie, and
then breaking and turning over a sod two inches

thick :—

1st

year.

On tlie sod

... Wheat.

2iul

Pl()Ujj;lu'd or l)acks('t

... Parley.

3 id

Ploughed or worked ...

Potatoes

4tli

Ploughed

. . . Oats.

r)tli

Worked

Potatoes

Gth

Not ploughed or worked

Barley.

This hitter crop we saw ; so heavy was it, that the
heads and straw were both bending ; and this successful
result he attributed to having worked the land the pre-
vious year for potatoes. The railway accommodation
had hitherto been so distant, that taking the produce to
market had eaten up all the profits. On one occasion
he had even hauled his goods to Emerson, eighty miles
away ; but he told me it did not pay if one had to haul
wheat more than twenty-five miles. He is happy now

ST.

as much
Jtinitoba
is mucli

in my
viiutage.
Iiad been
of acres,
inner : —

without
irie, and
) inches

it.
y.
oos.

DCS.

'•

;hat the
iiccessful
the pre-
lodation
oduce to
occasion
ty miles
to haul
)py now

EXrEIilEXCES OF TWO SETTLERS.

in having the railway only seven miles away. His
ideas of a fair average crop were as follows : —

Oats. 70 bushels to tlie aero.

JJiirloy. 2-~) to 40 bushels to the acre.

Wlieat. 30 busliels to the acre.

Potatoes. 2.50 busliels to the acre.

His opinion coincided with that giveii me by others,
as regards the weeds which were the most ditHcult to
contend with; he, too, considering that lambs-cjuarter
(similar to our dock), and wild buckwiieat (which is
something like a wild convolvulus), were the most
obnoxious. According to his experience, onions grew
better if always planted on the same ground ; and cer-
tainly, a patch where they had Ix'en sown for six years
consecutively, looked more llourishing than those sown
on ground which had been thus used for only two
years. Potatoes thrive better if the soil is changed
every year. ^langolds do exceedingly well, and David-
son said he could grow them from two to three feet
long.

This visit to Davidson's was most interesting. He
freely gave us all the infornuition he could, and it was
a fair example of a farm after six years' settlement. 1
think it was the fault of the mode of cultivation, rather
than of the quality of the land, that the crops were not
better. The garden was a good proof of this, for the
crops there were very good ; but even this, I believe.

[ '1

I
f

1 i

S ' 1

If -^i-

3S0 Z/"F/'; .ly/) LABOUR /.V 77f/? ^.l/^ F/l/i» irFST.

had onl}'^ been cleaned, and not manured ; at any rate,
outside tlie cattle shed was a very lar^^e heap of manure,
wliich did not aj)[)ear to have been touclied for years.
Davidson had no sheep, but some ciittle, which he said
he had to feed from 1st October to 1st June. Fowls,
unless kept under very warm shelter, all die from cold
in the winter. This, of course, accounts for their note-
worthy absence, which had struck us before. We tried
the well-water, and found it indilferent. The David-
sons came IVoiii the province of (Quebec, and I do not
think that Mrs. Davidson would be very sorry to return
there ai^'ain, for she com[)lained of the winters being- so
long and cold. She said the school was only ke})t ()])en
for si.\; months of the year, being closed throughout the
wintvM*. The people in the neighbourhood belonged
mostly to the Presbyterian Church; service was held on
Sundays about a mile off, and there was also a school
attached.

After our dinner and talk at Davidson's, we went
on to visit the stock farm, which consisted of a ver}'
hirge area of scrub-wood, intermixed with long grasses ;
these in places were from three to lour feet high.
They were all good and nutritious, and our horse
thoroughly appreciated them, for he took a good mouth-
ful whenever he coidd. Some of these y-rasses looked
coarse ; but the horse dived at all alike, and aj)parently
iound them all equally to his liking. I tasted several

s'T.

tiny rate,
maiiun',
or years.
I he said
Fowls,
rom cold
leir note-
AVe tried
e David-
I do not
to return
; beini^ so
<e})t ()])en
»;hout tlie
belonged
s held on
D a scho(d

we went
|)f a very
grasses ;
let high,
ir horse
[1 mouth-
's looked
Dparently
[1 several

EXrEJUEXCES OF TUT) SETTLERS.

SSI

of them, and found them sweet and nice. What sur-
prised me most, wus to see the large amount of wild
vetch and prairie ])eas, whicih grow here quite two feet
high, constituting, it is said, the best feeding-stulT in
the Dominion. Immense <[uantities here were utterly
wasted and unused for want of stock ; the grasses were
so thick that we could hardly drive through them, and
the vetches (without exaggeration), almost ])revented
the wheels from turning. Besides this, our horse was
so anxious to carry away a recollection of the good fare
surrounding him, that we had some ditliculty in keej)ing
him on the move. I*]ven Mr. llarmer, my companion,
expressed his astonishment at the luxuriant growth.

Any one who has ridden on a buck-board knows
that it will generally pass through, or over anything ;
all the same, we came to a sudden stop once. The
district throu<jh which we were driviny* was admirablv
adapted for cattle. Scrub-wood, growing in places (piite
high, was intermixed with the grass; and tlirough ;<U
this we drove at a trot; but on one casion we came
to such an abrupt halt, that it ahii i threw us both
out of the vehicle; and, in point (»' fact, it did pitch

irmer — wno was s

>;tand

inijf ui

the moment — on

to the back of the horse. Slight as a buckboard is,
it is very strong, and there must necessarily be some
sort of connection between the wheels ; and we found,
on examination, that this connecting-rod had suddenly

ll'

'•wmHiii

31^ ITFE AM) LAJinrn TX THE FATf, F.I 7.' WEST.

come in contact witli a ])ost — probably tbe old stump of
a trco — wbicb ]>n»trnd('(l about two feet above tbt^
L^round. iraviaLC backed off tliis obstruction, we ])ro-
ceeded to cross a very niarsby place, lull of rushes, and
lookinu^ like a ]:)ond. Mr. Ilanner, liowever, went
straii;'lit at it with a rush ; and our steed, who was
evidently accustomed to prairie drivinu^, put his back
into it, and drag'^vd us out safely on the other side ;
though I, in my inexperience, when I first saw what we
luuv to go over, had had a very strong feeling that we
shouhl get stuck.

This iijreat stock farm (although held by some one)
seemed to be unoccupied, or at any rate very insutfi-
ciently and partially stocked ; owing, I suppose, to the
usual reas(m, i.r., want if capital. VV^e saw tracks
which had been nuule by a few catth', roaming about
ap})an>ntly at ])lejisure ; and we also passed places where
some of the neighbours were cutting Imy. They
seemed to take a patch here Jind there, wherever it suited
them; and, of cou.rse, chose the best. The average crop
appear-^d to be about two tons to the acre. The length
and quality of the grasses, and the abundance of wild
vetches and prairie peas, struck me with amazement.
Here was the best of feed neglected, or but partially
used : any one with the means and opportunity would
do well to come here and look up these lands, pro-
vided they are to be had. Harmer's observation, as he

stump of
1)0 ve tlui

we ])ro-
slu's, and
ror, wont
who was

liis l)ack
lier side ;

wliat wi»

that wo

iome one)

V insutH-

U', to tlie

vv tracks

pf about

OS vvliero

Tiioy

it suited

age crop

le lengtl)

of wild

izemont.

artially

jy would

ids, pro-

)n, as he

EXPERIENCES OF TWO SETTIJUIS.

353

expressed his astonislimont, is worth recording : — " It is
wonderrul what is on this great globe, and under the
sky." The soil was loamy and quite black ; it would
be a great pity to plough it, but it would yield good
crops if this were done.

In the centre of this district we came on one
neglected farm. The owner was dead, and the culti-
vated land had gone back to waste, and had become one
dense mass of prairie ilowers of every shade and colour.
When the })rairie is ploughed, and afterwards allowed
to remain uncultivated, it throws up numberless wild
{lowers, growing very strongly, with long stalks. In
its natural state the prairie is covered with low growing
flowers; the pretty little prairie ''o^ - — the sweetest little
ilowor in the world — grows only from four to eight
inches high. A bou((uet of these rose-buds is a sight
not easily forgotten. During this tour I have become
more and more attached to flowers growing in their
wild state, those 1 have seen in the various parts
of America which we have visited have been so
lovely.

The stock-farm was well watered, for at one point
it adjoins a lake, and in the interior there are also some
watering-places. It has besides another advantage, in
being well supplied with shelter by the scrub-wood.
On our way home we drove straight from point to
point; starting from the stock farm, we made right

■! (

■'■ ' i

ii'

'J I 'i

854

/,/"/'7'7 .LV/) LAlUWli IN TIIK FAI{, FAR U'KST.

across the prairio to the furthest liouse we could see.
Several places were shown me which had heen hought
during the ** boom " by speculators who now were not
able to sell their purchases at a profit. The vendors
had heard glowing accounts of the Far West, and had
sold their holdings and departed with the intention of
visiting it, but found by experience what I can guarantee
to be a fact, namely, that the lands of the West — by
which I mean on from Regina to the base of the llocky
]\Iountains (east side) — were not so good as those they
had left behind them in their old locality. To use
Ilarmer's own words, "There are a lot of men who have
sold their land and gone west, and could not get any
better; then being disappointed would have liked to
return, but as they would have had to pay more now
for their own land, they have gone to Dakota."

Harmer's own stock-farm was situated about four-
t'^en miles away, so I did not see it. The land he
showed me to-day was, he said, worth about eight
dollars per acre ; but I have since been informed that
this is too high a price to give for this class of grazing-
land, for, although it would be difficult to find anything
better, there is a good deal of waste in marshy ground
and woodland. I should, however, fancy that 10,000
acres, all grass and scrub, might be easily got together
in this district. Although called a stock-farm, this
appears to be only in order to identify the lands, for

lould see.
n bought
were not
i vendors

and had
ention of
guarantee
Vest— by
he lloeky
lose they
lo use
who have
; get any

liked to
lore now

Dut four-
hind he
it eight
ned that
^razing-
mything
ground
10,000
lOgether
rm, this
nds, for

EXPEltlEXCES OF TWO SETTLERS.

:r».)

at proi-ont notliing is Ijcing done here, either in the way
of rearing or grazing.

Our excursion was altogether a most interesting one;
we did not get back till seven o'clock, and, as the buck-
board held together, we returned in safety. AFy thanks
are due to the driver, l)ut also to the horse, for none but
one accustomed to })rairie-driving could have managed
so well, or come back uninjured, taking us as he did
through bushes and over stumps, across marshes and
pcmds. The animal was unshod ; but, really, in prairie-
driving no shoes are required, indeed, they are probably
better dispensed with. Horses and children seem to be
treated in the same way in this respect. Adjoining
Harmer's farm is a school section, capital land, but
not at present in the market. It amounts to OK)
acres, i.e., one square mile, and Ilarmer thought it
•ould be cheap at ten dollars an acre. Curiously
enough, in a conversation I had later on with a friend
in Winnipeg, he himself mentioned this section as being
an excellent one, the best, he said, in the whole district ;
and I then told him that it was the very one I had
picked out, and on conqjaring notes and plans we found
that this was actually the case. I told this friend, in the
course of our conversation, of the stock lands Harmer
had shown me, and he thought that a district growing
such grasses could feed cattle during the winter, for,

owing to their height, they would be above the snow.
X 2 '^' '" ^

:Kfi

UFE AND LABOUR TN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

It was half-past nino o'clock before I said good-bye to
Mr. and Mrs. Harnier, thanking them at the same time
for all their kindness, and for the information they had
given me ; then, roUrning to the car for the night, I
rejoined the rest of our party.

1ST.

)d-bye to

ime time

thoy had

night, I

CHAPTER XXIV.

AMONC. TlIK MKNNOMTKS.

Piiinbina Rosciifilil 'Hv Mi'iiiionitcs N'iclinis of Slander How they Tiivc—
Their (iiinlens 'llieir Modu of Fiinuiiif? uiul of Seftlement.

Wk left Manitoba City at 8.15 a.m. on Monday,
Au<^ust Gth. At lirst the land was all ^rass, lyin^
rather low, but flat ;ind open, and with a jjfood deal of
scrub-wood ; I should think the best use to make of it
would be as a cattle range. We again saw most
beautiful prairie flowers, growing in masses on each side
of the line. After the first ten miles the land did not
look so good as that we had seen round Manitoba City.
The railway track was terribly out of order, and our
car swung and rolled about, almost as much as if we
had been crossing the Atlantic. About ten o'clock the
appearance of the country changed, for we came to
the first Mennonite village settlement.

These people are emigrants from Russia, though I
believe they were originally of German extraction. In
accordance with their religious tenets they refused to
serve in the army, or to fight, being *'men of peace " ;
the Russian Government therefore gave them ten years
in which to seek a new home. This clemency is now

i 1
■ I

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 873-4503

3J8 LIFE Ayn LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

cancelled, but thousands had previoussly availed them-
selves of the chance, and, under good guidance, many
settled here, others going to the States. Their settle-
ments are always in the form of small villages or com-
munities ; and they have apparently been well-advised
both in their selection of a locality and in their choice
of particular lands, for they occupy some of the finest
land in the Red lliver Valley, where the depth of the
soil is fully three feet or more, and too good and rich
to require manuring for many years to come. Six
townships — i.e., thirty-six square miles — were accorded
tliem in this part, about ihe year 1871-2. Within this
area they have built themselves seventy-five villages,
each of which contains from ten or twelve to twenty-
five farms. How many Mennonites there may be
altogether in Manitoba I cannot tell; it is said that
there are in all one hundred villages ; 14,000 fresh
emigrants came over only five years ago, but at the
present time the permission for others to leave Eussia
has been withdrawn.

We had two or three hours to wait at Pembina
junction, and, noticing one of these Mennonite villages
(that of Rosenfeld) only about a couple of miles away,
we determined to walk over there and pay a visit to
its inhabitants. We had been told that they were bad
settlers, unpleasant neighbours, and dirty in their
persons and dwellings ; but we were much pleased to

EST.

AMONG THE MENNONITES.

350

ed them-
Lce, many
jir settle-
s or com-
11-advised
eir choice
the finest
)th of the
and rich
»me. Six
3 accorded
rithin this
e villages,
[;o twenty-
may be
said that
000 fresh
ut at the
,ve Kussia

Pembina
ie villages
|les away,

I visit to

Iwere bad

in their

Pleased to

find that tlie exact reverse was the truth ; and my notes
will tend to show tliat otlier settlers have much to
learn from them, botli in their method of working the
land, and in the general form of settlement which they
adopt. I certainly considered their system of farm-
ing better than any I had previously noticed, and
their crops the best I had seen ; but, whether from
belonging to a different nationality^ or from the ex-
clusive nature of their communities, the fact remains
that they are not popular with the ordinary settlers.
In coming up the line we had seen some five-and-
twenty of their villages, situated at almost equal dis-
tances apart, on the perfectly flat level plain ; but perhaps
a description of the one we visited will sufficiently show
what the others are like, for I assume that there would
be a certain amount of uniformity in them all. The
form of the village is generally a broad prairie street
dividing two lines of houses, each with a very large
and beautifully-cultivated garden attached, stocked with
every description of what we should call old-fashioned
flowers, and an abundance of vegetables.

The homesteads are very picturesque, being, as
nearly as possible, exact copies of the inhabitants' old
Russian homes ; a very few are built entirely of wood,
but most of them had wood-framing, plastered and
whitewashed at the base, the two gable ends being of
wood, and surmounted by a thatched roof.

! *B

360

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAB WEST.

The living-room, stable, cow-house, and waggon-
house all join, communicating throughout with doors ;
but the pigs have, as a rule, a separate establishment to
themselves outside. Over the whole building (living-
house, stable, &c.) there is one large open loft which
forms a kind of granary, and serves every sort of purpose,
being not only a store-room, but a general receptacle
for everything, whether because not wanted downstairs,
or as requiring shelter. The first house we visited
stood back out of the line, and a little apart from the
others ; on entering it we found the owner, with his
mother-in-law, wife, and child, all seated at a table with
a tin dish of milk and sour-krout before them ; this
constituted their dinner; they were all eating out of
the common dish, though, happily, with separate spoons.

The floor of the room was partly of earth, and
partly neatly boarded, and a ladder communicated with
the loft above. The earthen floor formed, as it were,
the parlour of the establishment, the boarded portion
being used as the dairy, and for the various utensils not
in immediate use, which were ranged here on little
wooden forms, or small square tables. The buckets
were generally placed in threes, and many of the other
utensils appeared to have special forms allotted to them,
and were placed three or four in a row. All was clean
and perfectly neat ; indeed, it was more like a show-
house at an exhibition than an ordinary dwelling-room.

» '■ 1

'EST.

itli doors ;
Lsliment to
iijr (living-
ioft wliicli
)f purpose,
receptacle
iownstairs,
we visited
b from the
r, with his
table with
them ; this
|ing out of
ate spoons,
earth, and
Lcated with
xs it were,
[led portion
itensils not
on little
le buckets
the other
td to them,
was clean
te a show-
lling-room.

AMOXG THE MENNONITES.

361

Tliero were but few copper utensils, but those I saw
were quite bright inside, with their outsides as black as
ink. In the windows stood neat little pots of flowers
and prairie roses.

Opening out of this combined room (in which the
difference in the flooring was the only distinction)
were two bedrooms, separated by a boarded partition
with a curtain drawn across. The family treasures, con-
sisting of china, glass, spoons, &c., were kept in one of
the bedrooms, on shelves in a window opening into the
sitting-room. Thus the contents of the room could be
seen on both sides ; and we noticed an old Dutch clock
against the wall, also a silver watch and chain hung up
as a grand ornament.

There were in the rooms two wooden beds, a crib,
and a very large oak case ; a table with a pile of winter
blankets, and what we should call eider-down quilts, and
a couple of stools, completed the furniture. The cur-
tains to the bedroom-windows were closed. The oven
opened out of the bedroom ; from the sitting-room passed
an open chimney, which acted partly as an escape for the
smoke from the stove below, and partly as a ventilator.

Under the same roof, and communicating by a
door, were the stable, cowhouse, &c. ; and I think it
is very possibly owing to this arrangement that the
report has been spread that these Mennonites are such
a dirty people, living under the same roof as their

I S

)

.'1

:{*32 LIFE A}7D LABOUR 7.V THE FAR, FAR WEST.

animals. For my part, I must say I do not think
it is at all a bad arrangement, but, on the contrary,
very suitable to the climate, for it enables the owners to
get to the stock without having to go out-of-doors;
and, as far as I could ascertain, the plan w^as not open
to objection on the score of want of cleanliness.

After seeing the house, we next went to visit the
garden. This we found was beautifully kept, and \ve\\
filled with vegetables and flowers of every variety.
The following is a list which I give in the order that I
took the names down in my note-book : —

Potatoes,

20.

Sage.

Sunflowers.

21.

Sour Krout.

Poppies.

22.

Rhubarb.

Nasturtiums.

23.

China Aster.

Pinks.

24.

Mignonette.

Beans.

2.x

Caraway seed.

Currants.

26.

Sweet Briar.

Sweetwilliam.

27.

Manitoba Clierry.

Pansy.

28.

Swedes.

10.

Beetroot.

29.

Hollyhock.

11.

Onions.

30.

Peas.

12.

Indian Pink.

31.

Horse Radish.

13.

Scarlet Star.

32.

Vegetable Marrow.

Marigold.

33.

Cucumber.

15.

Gooseberry.

34.

Camomile.

16.

Lettuce.

35.

Water melon (which

17.

Carrots.

does not grow well).

18.

Frencli Beans.

36.

Balsam.

19.

Wild Gooseberry.

37.

Roses.

38. Pc

)rtulaca.

'.ST.

ot think
contrary,
owners to
of- doors ;

not open
s.

visit the
, and well
f variety,
der that I

,t.

Bed.
ir.

Cherry.

lish.
Marrow.

)n (which
how well).

AMOliG THE MENNONITES.

The sunflower seed came direct Tom Russia. The
vegetable garden was in the centre, and the flower
gardens formed the borders, in the same manner as one
may see any day in old-fashioned English gardens.
The second house that we visited was much the same
as the one I have just described, and everything was
equally in order. The only difference in the garden
was the addition of plum and dwarf mulberry-trees,
also of cotton-wood and poplar. The two latter were
eventually to be planted out, and, in the end, to be
used for firing. The potato crop here was exceedingly
good.

The third house we went to belonged to the "boss"
of the village ; and was an exact imitation, in wood, of
a Russian house. In this garden we found, besides the
vegetables and flowers enumerated above, some wild
hops, Scotch kale, very fine cabbages, and a few apple-
trees ; but these latter do not grow well in Manitoba.
The flowers were, in every case, beautiful and well-
grown; the vegetables, on the whole, were also very
good and creditable, the potatoes, in particular, being
excellent. The name of our guide was Peter Zorokar-
riors, that of the proprietor of the second house was
Abram Zacharis, and that of the "boss" of the village
was David Klason. They were all most friendly, and
followed us about, every one being anxious to show us
their homes and gardens ; so we soon had the majority

fin"

i ' it

'1^

1 I

fiil

m\ LIFE AND LAIiOUU IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

of tlie villa«^c \vjilkin<r about with us. Their kno\vled*(o
of the Englisli lanj^'Uiige was not very «^reat ; but their
anxiety to be friendly and to sliow us ever3'thin<^ fully
made up for this, and we managed to understand each
other pretty well.

The oldest settler in this village has been here eight
years. With regard to the farming of the Mennonite
community, they have some excellent land, a part of the
Red lliver Valley ; in fact, it is some of the best in
Manitoba, excepting, perhaps, that immediately adjoin-
ing the river. Upon examining the crops, I found
some very good, though weedy, wheat (the best that I
have seen in Manitoba) ; the oats were also good, and
cleaner. The soil seemed almost too strong and rich,
and inclined to make too much straw. These crops
were the result after six years' continuous wheat-grow-
ing, with the exception of one year's fallowing. I
noticed here a small field of mown barley, which is the
first crop I have seen ripe and cut in Manitoba. The
settlers told us that, after four years' cropping, they had
found the land had become too weedy aad dirty; so they
now adopt the following rotation, the first year, of
course, having been devoted to breaking and back-
setting. After that,

Second year. Wheat.
Third

Fourth year, Oats.
Fifth „ Wheat.

Sixth year, Fallow.

<:sT.

but their
ling fully
tand each

here eight
Mennouite
part of the
he best in
ely adjoin-
s, I found
best that I
) good, and
ig and rich,
hese crops
|vheat-grow-
ilowing. I
hich is the
Ltoba. The
g, they had
^•ty; so they
•st year, of
and back-

Oats.
Wheat.

AMONG THE MENNONITES.

This last they call the " black year." Thus it will
be seen that they adopt the principle of fallowing every
fifth year. It must be remembered that (in this part
of the Red Kiver Valley) the soil is three feet deep, and
manuring would as yet probably make :he land too rich,
therefore I think the fallowing system is the best to
adopt here for the present ; all the same, I think it will
eventually be found that it must be resorted to oftener,
and that only to fallow every fifth year leaves too long
an interval between. At any rate, however, these
Mennonite settlers have commenced a regular system of
fallowing, which other settlers in Manitoba have as yet
failed to do; for the only idea of the latter (as I have
said before) as far as 1 could see, was to crop as often
and as hard as they could : they will learn by experience
that this plan will not answer. In the Mennonite
settlement I saw one field of wheat which had been
cropped for seven years in succession ; it looked bad,
thin, and foul, and this could not be the fault of the
soil, for nothing could exceed its richness. Wheat was
apparently cultivated more than anything else; after
this came oats ; but there was very little barley, and
what there was was indifferent, while the wheat and
oats, when properly cultivated, were excellent.

I also noticed a small patch of swedes, which were
fairly good, but small, considering the time of year.
The prairie grasses were good, and their greenness quite

f ; III

Yc">

366

LIFE /IM) LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

■

remarkable when compared with the North- West Terri-
tory. At Rosenfeld there did not seem to be much
stock, but on Hearing some of the other villages we saw
many herds of cattle. The stock belonging to each
separate village community graze in common, ever}*
member contributing half a dollar a head for the herds-
man. On the same principle, a general subscription is
raised for a schoolmaster — who, it appears, instead of
keeping a school for the children to come to, visits
instead, and teaches at each house in turn ; but how
this plan could work was not quite clear to me.

It was apparent that there was a controlling hand
directing the arrangements of these Mennonites ; their
villages were all regularly laid out on a uniform plan,
and situated at equal distances apart. C>n their northern
side the prairie was left unenclosed, in a stretch thirty-
six miles long, for grazing purposes. On the southern
side of each village was the mowing- ground for hay,
and behind this again lay the tillage lands, all adjoining
each other, instead of being scattered about here, there,
and everywhere. I assume that each village has its
recognised boundary. The houses were much more
roomy and more comfortable than any I had previously
seen, and, on the whole, I think the Mennonites should
be congratulated on the success they have thus far
achieved. I certainly observed no signs of the unclean-
liness which is attributed to them.

'i i

EST.

est Tcrri-

be much
es we saw
g lo eacb
ion, every
the herds-
icriptiou is

instead of

3 to, visits

; but how

ae.

oiling hand
nites ; their
liform plan,
teir northern
"etch thirty -
;he southern
|nd for hay,
,11 adjoining
here, there,
lage has its
[much more
previously
jtes should
e thus far
;be unclean-

AMOXH Till'] .UENXOSri'ES.

They wen* ijrowing tlic best crops I have seen, either
in Manitoba or the Nortli-West Territory ; and they
struck me as being a luippy, contented, and prosperous
people, with more of tlie real settler about them than I
had noticed elsewhere. When once settled, they remain,
and look upon the place as their home, working the
land with the intention of making the best of it, with-
out any idea of selling and moving t)n should an oppor-
tunity occur of turning their holdings into cash, and
thus restlessly seeking a new home almost before they
had become established in their old one. Indeed, [ am
not at all sure that they are allowed to sell ; if they
were, I think there would soon be plenty of customers
seeking to buy their property.

The latest comer in the settlement said that of his
160 acres he cultivated fifteen as hay, nineteen as
wheat, eleven as oats, and four acres only as barley,
the rest of his holding being grass. He possessed one
cow, two calves, and three horses. If settlers else-
where would but break up their 160 acres in the same
proportion, there would be less rush and fluctuation of
population, and a better chance for the future steady
development of the country. This man's old home had
lain between Moscow and Odessa, rather to the north-
east of Kiev, and he said it was very much colder here
than there. Nothing, however, would have persuaded
him to go back to Eussia, and he seemed even to dread

t'AU WKST.

the very idea of sucli a thin<^ ever hv'iu^f pctssiblc; wlwch

tends to sli

the h

hicli til

IS to snow tno horror anu aversion m wiiicn tne
oppressions of the Russian Government are lield by tliese
people. Another of the s(!ttlers stated that of his 100
acres, thirty were under wheat, fourteen were oats, five
barley, and one potatoes. We bought some egj^^s here at
eighteen cents per dozen ; the Mennonites like a bargain,
but are very careful to be exact about it. I believe they
are fair in their dealings, and that their charges are
moderate. It is possible that the undoubted prejudice
which exists against them may partly owe its origin to
the fact of their selling the produce of their farms at a
more reasonable and moderate rate than the other
settlers do. As regards the " mode of settlement "
practised by the Mennonites, I think other settlers have
a great deal to learn by their example ; for, in the first
place (as I said before), they farm their land, not as a
s23eculation, but with the intention of remaining on it,
and making it their home; and, secondly, they work it
on a system, and break up less land, thus reserving a
. larger proportion of pasture, which I feel sure is right.
As the country opens up more grain will be grown,
and therefore the price of wheat will fall, while stock,
on the contrary, is continually increasing in value, and
ought eventually to be produced in far larger quan-
tities throughout all these provinces.

I also like the adoption of the village plan : consider-

KST. s

)le ; wUich
which the
il by thi'so
ji his IGO
! oats, five
rtrs here at
! a bar^'ain,
(olicve thoy
jliar^es an'
d prejudice
its origin to
farms at a
L the other
settlement "
jcttlers have
, in the first
id, not as a
Aning on it,
;hey work it
reserving a
ure is right,
be grown,
vvhile stock,
|n value, and
larger quan-

m : consider-

AMOXa THE MENXONTTES.

:<()'.•

ing Manitoba and tlio Nortli-West Territory inchide
Huch a large area, I cannot help thinking that it would
be very simple to try the experiment of laying out some
townships on an approved model village plan, in order
to see how the project would be received by the public.
The female part of the population would, I am sure, look
on it with approval, for the present monotony of a long
winter in an isolated district must be terribly dull for
them. With the Mennonites the numure from the cow-
houses is cut into oblong pieces, just in the same manner
as peat is cut in Ireland ; it is then dried in the sun,
and afterwards stacked like a peat-rick; it is used in
winter, when mixed with wood, to kindle a fire.

■|: I*

■ ,l

[flff'

' I

t ■

' i ii:

:i!

CHAPTEE XXV.

ALONG THE RED RIVER VALLEY.

A Rush for the Train — Morris — Comparativo Richness of lianda — Winnipeg —
Clive's Indisposition more Serious — "Winnipeg 3Iud — A Drive to Kil-
donan — General Remarks on ManitoLa and the North-West.

In the end we took a hurried farewell of the village
of Eosenfeld and its inhabitants, for we had to make
a rush for our train, which we saw returning along the
track ; but the engine-driver very obligingly pulled up
to let us get on board, the station being some distance
ahead. As we continued our journey, the line was still
very much out of order; the sleepers were actually
sunk into the ground, and the rails also were very often
much depressed, and lower on the one side than on the
other. When we were within twelve miles of Winni-
peg, however, we went more steadily, thanks to the
acquisition of some ballast, of which there was none
to be had lower down. Luckily, we were not allowed
at any time to go faster than fourteen miles an hour,
which, under the circumstances, was a comfort.

We followed the valley of the Eed Eiver the whole
way to Winnipeg. With the exception of a few oat-
fields the country was all excellent grass land ; I believe

(—Winnipeg-
Drive to Kil-

it.

Dhe village
id to make
y along the
r pulled up
ae distance
ne was still
re actually
very often
;han on the
of Winni-
[nks to the
was none
lot allowed
[es an hour,
I't.
the whole
a few oat-
; I believe

ALOXG THE RED lilVER VALLEY.

371

that at certain seasons of the year it is in places liable
to become swampy; it is therefore more adapted for
pasture than for corn-growing. To the east the valley
is perfectly flat, but on the western side the ground
rises a little. In the distance we could see the course
of the river marked by a line of trees (usually elms).
The town of Morris — between Pembina junction and
Winnipeg, and about forty-three miles from the latter
town — attr'icted my attention as being a very rising
place. It is surrounded by some fine agricultural lands,
which are at present undeveloped.

The following is a summary of the various lands,
classed, as well as I was able to judge, according to
their richness : —

1. Red River Valley; the land in the neighbourhood of Winnipeg

is the deepest and richest.

2. Mennonite Red River Valley land ; 3 ft. deep about Rosenfeld.

3. Land near Otterburne, 31 miles south of Winnipeg.
+. Lands in the vicinity of Manitoba City.

5. Land east of Wakopa ; from Wakopa to Cartwright and ^lanitoba

City, passing Pembina Crossing.

6. Souris Valley land, near Plum Creek.

7. Mr. Rankin's land on the Assiniboine. 1

8. Qu'Appelle Valley and neighbourly >*" ,. co the north, j

equal.

The best wheat I saw was grown at Rosenfeld ; the second best
in the neighbourhood of Manitoba City ; tlie third best in the
neighbourhood of Turtle Mountain ; the fourth best at Mr.
Rankin's Assiniboine farm. The oats at Mr. Rankin's were
as good as any I saw elsewhere

Y -^

372 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

We reached Winnipeg about 7.30 p.m. on the
evening of August Gth, and immediately went to the
hotel to find Clive, as we were anxious to see him and
tell him all about our drive. We were told, however,
tliat he had moved that day to Herbert Power's house
in Edmonton Terrace. Following him there at once,
we found him in bed, but pretty comfortable. He said
he had disliked his previous quarters very much, and was
only too thankful to be moved to this place. He told
me how Herbert Power being at Winnipeg, and dining
at Mr. F. Brydges', had accidentally heard from his
hostess that there was an Englishman ill in the city, to
whom she wanted to send some newspapers, &c. ; and on
asking the name and finding it was Clive, he had at
once volunteered to lend him his house. Clive told me
all he had been doing, and how unexpected this fresh
return of illness was. As he said, "When we parted at
Branv^on four days ago, neither you nor I could tell I
was going to be so seedy ;" and I can safely say, had I
thought it for one moment, I should never have left
him. We both agreed that, under the circumstances, it
was very fortunate he had come straight to Winnipeg,
and had not attempted the long drive from Brandon to
Manitoba Citv ; for it would have been far worse to
have been laid up on the road, in one of the settler's
huts, beyond the reach of any doctor. Altogether,
judging from his manner and appearance, there was

on the
at to the
him and
however,
er's house
I at once,
He said
ii, and was
He told
nd dining
I from his
he city, to
c. ; and on
he had at
Ive told me
this fresh
parted at
luld tell I
say, had I
have left
stances, it
|Winnipeg,
randon to
worse to
e settler's
Itogether,
here was

ALONG THE RED lUVER VALLEY.

373

nothing to cause alarm or uneasiness ; and he seemed
to think he should soon be better. He was immensely
interested in hearing all about our trip to Southern
Manitoba, and regretted very much that he had been
unable to go there, asking, "Well, have you had a good
time of it ? fine country ? fine farms ? " &c. We told
him in reply all we had seen and done, and he entered
fully into it all. I subsequently wrote a short note for
him, at his dictation, to his sister, telling her exactly
how he was, and the doctor's opinion of his illness,
but saying that he was now recovering, and that
we should probably be able to move in a week.

I had wanted to add what was really the fact, that he
had had besides a slight touch of dysentery, but he would
not allow it, saying, " No, not dysentery, it is not that ;
but even if so, very slightly, and that would make it
look worse than it is, so leave that out." Dr. Kerr, the
physician whom Clive had consulted during his first
visit to Winnipeg, had been away in the country,
but he returned this evening, and resumed his attend-
ance on his formxcr patient instead of his partner, J^r.
Lynch, who had seen him in the interval.

We returned late to the car, sleeping in it on a
siding at the railway station ; and the first thing the
next morning went back to Clive, and found Power
there, who promised to give up his room to me the next
day, as he was leaving Winnipeg then to return to the

1 ^u

^ \\

374

LIFE AXD LAliOUli IX THE FAIL FAR WEST.

Assiniboine farm. Either Mitchell or I was con-
stantly with Clive throughout the day. Dr. Kerr told
me that in his opinion he would bo able to be moved
in a week. It had been a bad attack, and he had pre-
viously been much weakened by the former one ; but if
he could only be got to the sea-side he would be well at
once ; and the best thing of all would be to get him on
board ship as soon as possible. Clive himself had a
great longing to get to the sea; and, acting on all this, I
went to see Mr. Jaffray, and arranged with him not to
leave Winnipeg for a week, so as to keep the official car
for Clive's use. Mr. Jaffray was most kind and con-
siderate, but hinted that next Monday would really suit
him best, as he wanted to get home to Toronto. Dr.
Kerr agreed to this, saying that if his patient continued
to improve as he was then doing, he saw no reason why
he should not move then. Clive seemed himself to think
he was much better, and was quite cheerful ; so I told
him all about the arrangements made for keeping the
car. The weather was exceedingly hot all day, and we
had to try to keep Clive cool by fanning.

There was a fall of rain, so we had another benefit
of Winnipeg mud, which is the most sticky stuff I have
ever come across in my life. Herefordshire clay is
nothing to it ! Winnipeg strikes me as a more won-
derful place in its quick growth on this second visit,
than it did in the previous one. Considering that

MMiiiWlIB

ST.

ALONG THE RED ItlVEB VALLEY.

vas con-
CeiT told
le moved
had pre-
e ; but if
»e well at
it him on
ilf had a
all this, I
m not to
ifficial car
and con-
eally suit
ito. Dr.
ontinued
,son why
to think
so I told
ping the
, and we

" Fort Garry," as it was called, consisted a few years
ago of but one fort, in an enclosure with a few Indian
wigwams, it is astonishing to think that its population
now amounts to about 25,000. It will be remembered
that when we parted with Clive at Brandon he had
gone straight on to Winnipeg with the rest of the party
in the car. Up to that morning he had intended ac-
companying us on the Southern Manitoba drive ; but,
just at the last, he had said he was rather tired after
the previous day's bumping over the prairie (in going
to the Assiniboine farm and back), and so he thought it
would be wisest to go to Winnipeg, get his prescrip-
tion * made up there again, and, after a day's rest,
to come on to Manitoba City in the car to meet us
there. I had volunteered to accompany him, but this
he would not hear of. When he did not appear at
Manitoba City, I was most anxious to get back to him
at Winnipeg ; but, unfortunately, as I have previously
stated, the train we had reckoned on going by had been
taken off, and there being no other, and no Sunday

;■

i':'

I;:

^r benefit
Iff I have
clay is

)re won-
Ind visit,

[ng that

• Lot me here recommend future travellers in North America never
to be without medicine of some description, in case of a sudden attack of
diarrhoea, which is very prevalent, partly on accoimt of the climate, and
more often by reason of drinking bad water or too much iced water.
From personal experience I can stroncfly rocommeud the diarrhoea and
cholera tablets of Messrs. Savory and Moore, of New Bond Street, which
may be carried without inconvenience. Another remedy is a few drops of
chlorodyne in water ; this I have found the stronger and perhaps the more
efficacious of the two.

^76 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

li i '

trains, we were obliged to remain at Manitoba City *
until the Monday.

We had again to pass the night in our car, but the
station was rather a noisy place for sleeping at, and the
trains awoke one early. We had breakfast at the
station, and saw Herbert Power off by the 7.30 a.m.
train, and then I made my move to his room at 91,
Edmonton Terrace, so as to be nearer to Clive, for at
the station we were about three miles off. Dr. Kerr
again reported him to be better to-day ; but he had not
had a good night — possibly on account of the heat —
for though the nights here are generally cool, we seem
to have come in for a spell of really hot weather, and
both yesterday and to-day were excessively hot. I
called upon Mrs. F. Brydges, to thank her for her kind-
ness and thoughtfulness in sending Clive jellies and
puddings, &c. They were most useful, and indeed, I
do not see how we could have procured them for him
ourselves. He seemed so very much better in the
afternoon that we felt quite happy about him, and the
idea of having an extra nurse to assist the housekeeper
(who was most attentive to him) was given up. Dr.
Kerr agreeing that it was not necessary. The latter
had once or twice made a remark as to the possibility of
the presence of typhoid, and had been watching for it ;

* The name of Manitoba City is now changed to Manitou.
name must not be confused with Manitou, Colorado, U. S. A.

This

asT.

ba City *

-, but the
D, aud the
it at the
7.30 a.m.
)m at 91,
ye, for at
Dr. Kerr
le had not
he heat —
, we seem
ather, and
Y hot. I
her kind-
ellies and
indeed, I
a for him
;er in the
, and the
•usekeeper
up, Dr.
'he latter
isibility of
tng for it ;

litou. This

ALONO THE RED RIVER VALLEY.

377

but to-day he said that he saw no symptoms of it, and
altogether I felt so satisfied with his report, that in the
afternoon I left Mitchell in charge, and went with Mr.
Jaffray (according to a previous arrangement) to visit
his property at Kildonan.

This is managed for him by his brother. It is
situated some six miles north of Winnipeg, on the Red
River. The country immediately surrounding Winni-
peg is well wooded ; and this tends in a great measure
to take off from the sense of flatness which one ex-
pects to feel round this prairie city ; for it is really
situated on an absolutely flat plain. We drove through
these woods along a fairly good road, until we came to
a ferry, by means of which we crossed the Red River ;
half a mile farther on we reached Kildonan. On our
way we had passed several farms in the immediate
vicinity of the river, all with excellent soil — a deep
black loam, I do not exactly know how many feet deep,
but I believe it to be the best and deepest in Manitoba.
On this first-rate land, however, I think I saw without
exception the worst farming, the poorest crops, and the
greatest amount of thistles, wild oats, and other weeds,
that I have ever seen in my life. This result is, I
think, not from any want of manure — for I doubt if
this rich land would bear manuring for a long time
after breaking — but from want of ordinary care in fal-
lowing and cleaning. I can safely assert that in quality

V '1

■:m

M n

378 LIFE AXn LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

some of this land can hardly he surpassed. On the
banks of the river the soil is of ^^reat depth ; and I do
not doubt the fact (which I believe some of the old in-
hahitants can vouch for), that in parts it has been con-
tinuously cropped for from fifty to seventy years.
Indeed, it is the boast of people who extol the advan-
tages of Manitoha, that the soil is so good, so deep,
and so rich, that it is impossible to impoverish it by
constant cultivation. I cordially agree as to the good-
ness, richness, and depth of the soil in the Eed Eiver
Valley ; but as to the possibility of continual cropping,
I can only repeat my former assertion, that some of the
crDps which I saw in this district (which is acknow-
ledged on all hands to possess the finest land imagin-
able) are among the most miserable I have ever seen.
Some people owning land here are now beginning to
reclaim, and to farm at a dead loss to themselves what
has been so ruined by others. This course is being
pursued by Mr. Jaffray, on whose farm I noticed a fair
show of oats. His object is to reclaim his land here
(which he bought in 1881), and to get it into a better
state of cultivation than it was then. Instead, there-
fore, of farming for profit, he has put his brother in
with directions to work it round, receiving no rent, and
expecting no return at present. If others would only
follow this example, there would be a chance of
rescuing these fine lands from their present ruined

'EST.

ALONG THE RED IllVER VALLEY.

379

. On the
; and I do
the old in-
5 been con-
;nty years,
the advan-
id, so deep,
^erish it by
the good-
; lied Kiver
al cropping,
some of the
is acknow-
and imagin-
ever seen,
leginning to
selves what
se is being
tticed a fair
land here
to a better
;tead, there-
brother in
rent, and
would only
chance of
ent ruined

condition, and restoring them to their former ilourish-
ing state.

One word more here as to the depth of the soil in
Manitoba and tlie North-West Territory. It is repre-
sented as deep and good throughout, being the bed of
i'n old lake, &c., and no doubt the latter was its con-
dition in ages long gone by ; but the very large extent
of territory included in these two provinces must be
taken into consideration, and then it may be more
clearly understood that the soil varies very much in
depth and quality in the various different districts, just
as it does in any other country. It must not, therefore,
be taken for granted that because the Ked Kiver Valley
possesses such deep loamy soil, the land throughout the
whole country is of tlie same quality, for such an idea
would be very far from the actual fact, and must result
in disappointment. The climate of Manitoba is much
the same as that of the North-West Territory ; the same
long winters, with nothing to do except cutting wood,
and tending the very few cattle : but of course it must
always be remembered that it is a dry cold, with no
wind, and therefore (considering the lowness of the
temperature) not nearly so much felt as it would be
with us.

«! ■ !

CIIAPTKU XXVI.

TIIK KM).

CHvc hocomos Worst> — Mcshim. Htowint iind CuiiiplK'H's Ciittlo Rancho — Clivo's
Dentil— Till! Hctiiin .loiuiicy.

Retuhninu to Edmonton Terrace, we noticed towards
evening a decided clian^^^e in Clive ; without any ap-
parent reason he hecamo very wanderin*^ and delirious,
and the next morning (August 9th) he was undoubtedly
not so well ; he had had a bad night, and continued
wandering or delirious throughout the day. I was very
uneasy about him, not knowing what could be the
reason of the change, for everything seemed to have
been going on so nicely, and we had all hoped for his
speedy recovery. We had both been asked to-day
to go and see Messrs. Stewart and Campbell's Cattle
Ranche, about twenty miles west of Winnipeg ; but we
had agreed that one of us should always be with Clive,
so to-day I remained with him while Mitchell made
the expedition alone, and was away the greater part
of the day. Of this expedition I subjoin the following
account taken from his note-book : —

" He breakfasted at the railway station, where
Messrs. Jaffray, Stewart, and Bath met him ; and to-
gether they proceeded by a short branch railway (over

3 Rjincho -ClivnV

icL'd towards
out any ap-
,nd delirious,
undoubtedly
ad continued
. I was very
pould be the
med to have
oped for liis
|asked to-day
.bell's Cattle
peg"; but we
e with Clive,
itchell made
greater part
he following

lation, where

lim ; and to-

L-ailway (over

TlfR END,

381

which a train only runs once a week), following the
valley of the Assiniboine River to Headingley. The land
on each side of the line was very good — much the same
as in the lied Kiver Valley — but the funning decidedly
bad, and the crops dirty «ind weedy. On leaving the
train at Headingley, the party found Mr. Campbell
waiting for them with two carriages to take them to
the Kanche. He had only come two years previously
from Scotland, where he had been farming largely in
Dumfries. At first they drove through good — but in-
famously farmed — lands, with bad and very dirty crops ;
a good deal of the country was out of cultivation,
the original holders having sold their properties to
speculators (who neither resided nor farmed them)
at the time of the extreme high prices. After driving
for some distance along the left bank of the Assini-
boine River through a pretty, well-wooded, park-like
country, which has been settled for many years, they
reached the ferry — which was of the same sort as
those usually adopted in all this country, and which
I have previously endeavoured to describe in my ac-
count of the North- West Territory — viz., a rope-ferry
very simply worked, the boat being carried across
merely by the current. The carriages crossed the river
(which was very mudd^) separately ; and then they
continued their drive along the right bank, finding
the prairie-land they came upon both good and rich,

, i:

382

LIFE AM) JsAnoVU IS THE /'.I/.'. FMl WEST.

and noticing,' ji t'ovv cattle and horses grazing' about,
lM'Ion«^inf]f to half-breeds. All this district has been
mostly in the occupation of French settlers and half-
breeds, an(

1 was laid out numy years ago in 1

on<

narrow strips running back from the river. Camp-
bell's farm is about four miles from the ferry, and is
perhaps half a mile wide ; but, owing to a sudden bend
)f the

luch 1

water front

age

oi tne river, ir possesses a mucii larger water
than is usually the case. Tie entered the farm in the
spring of 18S2 ; the whole extent is !,()()() acres,
and of this he fenced in 800 acres with wire last year.
The party first went to inspect the cattle, which were
feeding, not on Campbell's own land, but on the open
prairie, which here extends uncultivated for miles in a
north-westerly direction. There were about loO head
of good-looking stock, mostly bought in Ontario, and
all in first-class condition. The bulls are not allowed
to run with the cattle ; Campbell is wishing to get
up a good herd of shorthorns, and has already many
of this sort, but he ultimately hopes to have about 400
head. The cattle are, of course, kept in and fed all the
winter; but there is a good water supply in a lake about
150 yards from their buildings, to which they may
go at will. As much hay as is required for their winter
keep can be cut on the prairie, the half-breeds contract-
ing to cut and stack any quantity at two dollars per
ton , Campbell said he was storing 500 tons in this

WEST.

izini^ about,
ct has 1)0011
rs aiul half-
igo in lon^
vor. Camp-
ferry, and is
suddou bond
ater frontage
; fiirin in the
1, (*)()() acres,
'ire last year.
3, which were
b on the open
\)Y miles in a
ut l.")!) head
Ontario, and
not allowed
hiug to get
ready many
ve about 400
d fed all the
a lake about
I they may
their winter
ids contract-
dollars per
tons in this

THE EXD.

;183

way. He lias very little land in tillage, and is only
working it in order to cleanse it by degrees I'roni the
effects of former bad cultivation ; in the end he intends
to lay it down again to grass, being fully persuaded that
stock-farming is the thing to pay. Certainly his farm
was admirably jidapted for cattle, with nic(« bluIVs of
scrub here and there, and abundance of water, owing to
the long river frontage. The plan of the buildings is
a S(piare, with open yards at each corner, communicating
with each other through a central yard. The cow-
houses are to be, as it were, in tlie form of a cross,
meeting in the central yard; and the whole will be
palisaded round. As yet, only one of the wings is
built ; the few cattle that were on the farm last year
were housed in an old building. Each of the stables
is to be 150 feet long, and to hold 100 cattle (two in
a stall) in twenty-five stalls on each side ; so that when
all four stables are built they will accommodate tOO
head. The cattle stand in the stalls with their heads
outwards as in an ordinary horse-stable, leaving a path
through the middle up to the open centre yard. Tlie
one wing just completed cost about £'2 5(3; the floor
is of wood, raised about eighteen inches above the
ground; the centre gangway is wide enough for the
passage of a sledge bringing in hay for feeding pur-
posse. Campbell designed the building himself, and
all the materials are being brought from Winnipeg.

I »

li !1

1 m

384 LIFE AND LABOUR TN THE FAB, FAR WEST.

After luncheon — which was brought out to the new
cow-house, for Campbell's own house is not yet finished
— Mitchell and the others went to see the new house,
which has been placed amongst the trees, and which
ought to be warm and comfortable, for it is double-
framed in wood, with a space between each board-
ing; both the latter are covered on the inside with
lath and plaster. The vegetable garden looked par-
ticularly flourishing and well stocked. Campbell proved
a very pleasant companion, and a practical, well-educated
farmer ; he drove the party all the way (twenty miles)
back to Winnipeg, crossing the ferry, and then follow-
ing the track along the left bank of the Assiniboine,
though at some little distance from it. There were
houses scattered at intervals among the trees bordering
the river, the farm lands running back away from it :
they again saw a great deal of land that had formerly
been under cultivation, and was now neglected and full
of weeds, owing to the causes before mentioned. Some
of the land was excellent, but the farming was mostly
very bad. On the way back they stopped first at a
road-side farm, belonging to an Englishman who had
not long come into the country, and who could boast
both good buildings and good implements ; and another
time at a place called Silverheights, six miles from
Winnipeg — a pretty spot, with nice houses and gardens,
and plenty of trees.

WEST.

THE END.

38")

to the new
yet finished
new house,
and which
•j is double-
each board-
inside with
looked par-
pbell proved
veil-educated
wenty miles)
then foUow-
Assiniboine,
There were
ses bordering
ay from it :
lad formerly
Ited and full
loned. Some
was mostly
d first at a
an who had
could boast
and another
miles from
and gardens,

It was after 8 o'clock wlien they returned, and
Mitchell came almost immediately to hear how poor
Clive was; but I could not give a good report, for
he had been very ill, and wandering more or less
the whole day. Later in the evening Dr. Kerr came
in, and pronounced that the illness had decidedly turned
to typhoid fever, giving mo his written opinion, that
although at this stage it was impossible to predict the
termination, the present evidences indicated a severe
attack of the disease, which the patient was in a very
unfavourable condition to withstand. This opinion was
so alarming that it made me most uneasy, and I
immediately wrote home to Olive's relations, reluctantly
agreeing to defer telegraphing till the following day,
according to Dr. Kerr's wish. Alas ! the report the
next day was not better ; and I then, after a medical
consultation on the case, telegraphed home at once to
his cousin. Colonel Edward Clive, to break the news
to Clive's only sister, Mrs. Greathed.

In the afternoon there was a temporary improve-
ment, but the doctors said at the best it must be a long
illness. In accordance with my request, Dr. Kerr .sent
in a duly-qualified trained nurse in the course of the
day, and either Mitchell or I remained in constant
attendance.

tp , • % Id ^

And here I must draw a veil over these last sad

;J8(j

LIFE ASD LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

ii'i

liuiirs of watchini^ and waiting lit Winnipei^ ; sufficient
to say that the termination of the ilhiess was fatal,
and terribly and unexpectedly rapid ; my first telegram
to Olive's relations at home being, alas ! quickly fol-
lowed by the one which announced that he had already
piissed peacefully and happily to his rest.

It is impossible to say when or where Olive
caught the fatal typhoid infection ; it may have been
lurking unsuspected in his system for some time ; and
it should also be remembered that his previously
weakened state of health in itself rendered him more
susceptible to the attack of disease. It was only during
the last few days of his illness that much alarm was
felt, and but a few hours before his death I could not
resist a feeling that he must be better ; but it was the
last time he ever spoke or recognised me.

It was at once arranged that I should bring the
remains home to England for interment at Wormbridge,
the parish church of Whitfield, Herefordshire ; and,
accompanied by my friend Arthur Mitchell, who had
throughout been of the greatest assistance, I left
Winnipeg on the evening of Monday, August 13tli,
direct for England. Through the kindness of Mr.
Oox, President of the Midland of Oanada Eailway,
and of Mr. R. Jaffray, one of the Directors, the
official car of that Oompany was placed at my dis-
posal for the conveyance of the remains from Winnipeg

VEST.

THE END.

387

; sufficient
was fatal,
t telegram
uickly fol-
lad already

here Clive

r have been

time; and

previously

1 him more

only during

1 alarm was

I could not

t it was the

bring the
ormbridge,
[shire ; and,
[1, who had
ice, I left
igust 13tli,
less of Mr.
|a Railway,
•ectors, the
it my dis-
Winnipeg

to Quebec, a distance of 1,870 miles ; and from

thence, through the courtesy of Mr. Andrew Allan,

of Montreal (to whom I had an introduction from

liis daughter, Mrs. F. Brydges, of AVinnipeg), and

his partners in the Allan Line, every facility was

given for our sad journey to Liverpool. The homeward

route we followed was rid St. Paul's, Chicago, Toronto,

and Montreal, to Quel)ec, passing over sections of the

Canadian Pacific, the St. Paul's, Minneapolis, and Mani-

toba^ the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St Paul's, tlie

Chicago and Grand Trunk, and the Grand Trunk

railroads. From Quebec to Jjiverpool we came by the

s.s. Polpiesiaii, of the Allan Line. This journey al-

toijether was about 4,500 miles, and took exactlv

thirteen days and nine hours to perform, coming

through direct, without any break. I cannot refrain

i'rom expressing my sincere thanks to the various

Canadian and United States railway officials, over

whose lines we passed ; to the Customs officials in the

States, Canada, and England, and to the representatives

of the Allan Line, for the invariable sympathy and

assistance given in my sad errand, and for the help

rendered to expedite the journey, without which we

should have been delayed by missing the s.s. Polijuesian,

and the anxiety felt at home would have been increased.

At Liverpool I was met by the liev. T. PI. Eyton, the

rector of Wormbridge, and Mr. WooUey (who came
', ^

3S8 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

at the request of Mrs. Greathed), and together we
conveyed the remains to Wormbrid<je church on the
CSth Auiijust, where the coffin was deposited in the
chancel, to await tlie funeral ceremony, three days later.
A tour so happily commenced, and so successful in
itself, was thus unexpectedly brought to a sudden and
melancholy termination, one which throws a shadow
over the retrospect of the whole of our wanderings
(otherwise so bright and happy) ; and which, from the
days of anxiety and watching, and from the extreme
suddenness of the final blow, leaves an indelible mark
on the two survivors of the party, which can never be
forgotten or lost sight of during their lives. To me
the blow was naturally especially severe, for I had
known poor Clive for many years ; and it needed but
the constant daily companionship involved in travels
such as ours to ripen the regard and attachment which
already existed between us into something far more
and far deeper tlian ordinary friendship.

* * * *

Had his recovery been permitted, it was our in-
tention to have returned westwards from Glyndon
via the Northern Pacific llailroad as far as Living-
stone, and from there to have visited the Yellowstone
Park, tiaversing the park itself; and then, taking the
nearest rail on the Utah Northern Eailway, to have
struck the main line at Ogden, and thus to have

[VEST.

jjether we
■cU on tlie
ted in the
days later,
iccessful in
sudden and
; a shadow
wanderings
h, from the
:he extreme
LeUble mark
an never be
res. To me
for I had
, needed hut
in travels
ment which
far more

ras our m-
Glyndon
as Living-

S'ellowstone

taking the

ly, to have

IS to have

THE END.

389

retraced our steps eastwards. AVe had several intro-
ductions to persons interested in agriculture in Iowa,
I\Iassachusetts, and elsewhere in the States ; and we had
fully lioped to avail ourselves of these, and proposed
afterwards to visit Niagara and Ontario, &c., and finally
to have started for England rid Quebec. But it was
ordered otherwise ; and, in place of a happy return home
with a vivid recollection of the pleasant days we had
passed in each other's society, and with the means ot
constantly meeting and recurring to t- -m, it was the
melancholy fate of Mitchell and myself to bring poor
Olive's remains back to England, to be received at home
by his sorrowing relatives, and to see them deposited
by the side of those of his late wife. Lady Ivatherine
Olive, whom he had survived but one year, one month,
and one day.

To his memor}^ I have dedicated this short and im-
perfect account of our tour, knowing that he would
have wished it printed in some form or other, and
would have aided me in its preparation ; and feeling
convinced that by no possibility could one find a
pleasanter fellow-traveller, a firmer friend, or a better,
truer man, than the one from whom it was our misfor-
tune to be so suddenly parted.

Thus I bring my narrative to an end. As may be
noticed during its perusal, I have in it attempted to
confine myself to a simple account of our travels, and

fi"i
I

3! 10

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAIi, FAR WEST.

of the various facts which came under our notice. A
journey such as this needs no print to fix it in my
memory, for its sad termination is in itself sufficient
to keep tliose montlis of travel with two sincere friends
constantly before my mind, whenever my thoughts
recur to the Far, Far West.

'ST.

(tice. A
t in my
sufficient
re friends
thoughts

APPENDIX A.

The Maniloljd Free Prrsn of August l-'Uli, 1SS3, contaiuctl
the following : —

"obituary. — DEATH 01' A WELL-KXOWX ENGLISH TRAVELLEK.

" We regret to aniiouneo the death, at ]'](Jnionton Terraee,
this eity, on Saturday evening last, of Mr. Meysey Bolton
Clivo, of Whitlielu, Herefordshire, England.

*' Mr. Clive, aecornpauied by his friends, ]Mr. W. Henry
Barneby, of Br('<lenbury Court, Herefordshire, and .Mr. Arthur
C. Mitchell, of the Ridge, Corshani, Wiltshire, left Liverpool in
the S.S. Germanie, White Star Line, on the lOth May of the
present year, with the intention of visiting the West of the
United States and Canada. They had taken their return ])as-
sage in the S.S, Parisian, Allan Line, September 8th, from
Quebec.

"They visited California and British Columbia previous to
visiting Manitoba and the North- West. On the 9th July Mr.
Clive separated from his friends at Portland, Oregon, to keep an
engagement with Mr. Baillie-Grohman to visit the Kootenay
District, in British Columbia, in which he felt a keen interest.

" Although invited, Messrs. Barneby and Mitchell were
unable to join the expedition, owing to an engagement of some
months' standing to meet Messrs. Cox and Jnll'ray, of the Mid-
land Railway, on the 18th of July, and to proceed with them on
a tour in the Midland of Canada official car through Manitoba
and the North- West. Mr. Clive was also to form one of this
party, but he had previously stated he could only join it for a

302

Llb'E AND LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

.:!

(

limited period, owinjj^ to his desire to see more of the district
north of the Northern Pacnlie Rail way.

"It was arranj^ed between the friends, before parting, tliat
they should meet a<^ain at Winnipe<^ or in its vicinity in a fort-
night, or, at the outside, within tliree weeks after the time of
parting-. Accordingly Messrs. Barnel)y and Mitchell started for
Winnipeg, and Mr. Clive awaited Mr. Haillie-Grohman's arrival
at Sand Point, Idaho Territory, for a few days, and in its
vicinity. Eventually, ]Mr. Baillie-Grohman was unable to keep
to his engagement with Mr. Clivc, and the latter, anxious to
rejoin his friends, started off on a journey across the Rocky
JNEountains and over the Northern Pacific Railway, in order to
reach Winnipeg.

*' Unfortunately, in doing so, at some point between the
Dalles and farther east, he was visited with a severe atta'ck of
diarrhoea, which he attributed to bad water. Reing a strong
and active man, and of an energetic disposition, he pushed along
till he reached Winnipeg. Here he sought the advice of Dr.
Kerr, who rendered him such prom])t assistance that in a few
days he decided to follow the INIidland car to the end of
the track, in order to rejoin his friends, which he was most
anxious to do. Owing to the courtesy of the C.P.R.,^ and in
j)articular to Mr. Van Home, Mr. Egan, and Mr. McTavish,
Mr. Clive was enabled to trace the exact position of the
Midland car, then e// route to the end of the track. On
r. ^aching the end of the track he found that his friends had
gone on to Calgary, and proceeded, at 7 p.m. in the evening,
to overtake them on foot, the distance being between thirty-
live and forty miles — all conveyances being engaged. Upon
reaching Calgary he met his friends. All telegrams in-
terchanged between Mr., Barneby and INIr. Clive, of which there

• Canadian Pacific Railway.

'EST.
the district

larting, that
,y in a fort-
the time of
I started for
lan^s arrival

and in its
ible to keep
, anxious to
1 the Rocky

in order to

between the
re attack of
ng" a strong
mshed alonjif
Ivice of Dr.
at in a few
the end of
was most
R.,"'^ and in
McTavish,
ion of the
track. On
friends had
he eveniuj]^,
veen thirty-
iged. Upon
egrams in-
which there

ArrENDIX A.

nun

were several (to show tlwir whereabouts), were undelivered
except one. The return journey was conmienced the following;
day, July riUth. The day was excessively hot and oppressive;
and this unl'ortunatelv brouu'ht on a sli<jht return of the former
complaint. But it was considered so slig-ht that Mr. Ciive
decided upon visitiii^' Mr. li. Power's farm, in which he was
much interested, calle I the Assiniboine Farm, near l']lkli()rn, iii-
tendin<^ the followiu'j;' day to take a lon<^ drive from Brandon to
Manitoba City via Deloraine, a distance of over ]?•) miles.
From this he was dissuaded, and instead returned on the ~nd
inst. to Winnipci^, to seek a couple of days' rest, there being", in
his opinion, nothing much the matter with him. A few days
ago, however, symptoms of typhoid fever showed themselves,
and, owing to the patient's weak state, developed so rapidly that
no medical skill could combat the disease with success, and he
finally succumbed to it at 10.15 p.m., Saturday, the 11th inst.

" \J]) to the very last his friends liad seen reason to hope for
an improvement in his condition.

" Mr. Jail'ray, of the Midland Railway, had kindly volun-
teered, and made arrangements with the C.P.R. Co. to leave the
Midland official car for Mr. Clive's eastward journey upon his
recovery. To this the C.P.R. had cordially given their assent,
and Mr. Clive expressed his gratitude, a few days before his
death, in the warmest possible manner. Nothing could exceed
the kindness of all the railway officials, C.P.R. and Midland, to
assist the unfortunate sufferer and his friends in their unex-
pected trouble.

" Mr. Clive's principal medical adviser was Dr. Kerr, of this
city, from whom he received every attention and kindness. Dr.
Lynch and Dr. Acton were also in attendance for consultation.
With this medical aid, and attended by three nurses, the patient
received every care that could possibly be rendered.

•' Mrs. F. Brydges was most kind and considerate in sending

801

ITFR AM) I.Mtnru IX THK FAT}, FAU U'FST.

many little delicacios for Mr. Clive'H use, and lie i're(|ii('ntly ex-
pressi'd his {▼ratitude to her for her generous thou<j;ht fulness.

*' iMr. Power, of Assinihoine Karm, was also of the utmost
service in ])laein^' comfortable apartments at his disposal."

The late Mr. Meysey Bfdton Clive was the only son of the
Rev. Archer Cii/e, of Whitfield, Herefordshire, and was born in
IS 12. He was educated at Harrow and at IJalliol Collej^e,
Oxford, and was J. P. and Deputy Lieutenant for the County of
Hereford, and Major in the Hereford Volunteers. He was
married in the year iSti? to Lady Katherine reildin<;', sister to
the j)resent Lord l)enbi<^h. Lady Katherine died at Mr. Clive's
residence in South Eaton Phu'C, London, on the lUth of July,
18S;J, leaving three sons and two daughters.

'EST.

'(lucntly OK-
rulncss.
tho utmost
osul."

y son of tlio
was born in
liol ColU'gv,
County of
;. lie was
ing', sister to
; Mr. Clivers
itli of July,

APPENDIX 15.

TAHLK OF DISTANCES.

Liverpool to New York l>y h.h. (iP.rmduic, Wliito Star Line,

rin Quceiistown (iictual riui)
New York to St. Louis, Pciinsylvaniu II. II. ...

St. Louis to Kansas City, Missouri Pacific R. R.
Kansas City to JJcnvci-, Union Pacitu; R. R. ...

Denver to Colorado Spring-s, and on to jNIanitou

Manitou to PueMo

Pueblo to Salt Lake City, Denver and Rio Crandc; R.R.

Salt Lake City to ()gd(!n, ,, „

Ogden to San Francisco, Cential Pacific 11. R.

San Francisco to Madera

Madera to Yusemite Valley, via Clarke's (stage)

Yoseniite to Clai-ke's Hotel (return) ...

From Clarke's to Mariim.sa Grove of Big Tree's 7 miles \
Drive among them ... ... ... "*^ jj

Back to Clarke's ... ... ... <" ,, )

Clarke's to IMadera

Madera to Los Angele.s. Central Pacitic R.R. and Southern

PaciHcRR

Drives round San Gabriel, and to Sierra Madre Villa, from

Los Angeles
San Gabriel to San Francisco, I'ia JjOs Angeles, Southern

Pacific R.R. and Central Pacific R.R. ...
San Francisco to Bay Point and back .. .
San F'^rancisco to Victoria, British Columbia, by the Pacific

Coast Steam Packet Co. ...
Victoria (B. C.) to New Westminster (per steamer) ...
New Westminster to Y^ale, Fraser River
\'"ale to end of track, 6 miles beyond Boston Bars, per Mr.

Onderdonk's engine
Same route back to New Westminster from end of track . .
Drive from New Westminster -

To Burrard's Inlet and Port Moody and back
To Hastings, Granville, English Bay, and return
New Westminster back to Victoria (by steamer)

Mii.i-s.

.1,111

1,004

L'91

0:59

(] 1 r,
36

8;JA

18.5
95
29

297

490
90

750

luo

31
i:31

20
40
75

/,//•/; .i.\7) iMiovu f\ Tin: iwn, fm: west.

Mit.nt.

!ti

Vlctoriii to Niumiiiio (l»y stnuiicr)

Niiimiino to Di-puiturf Ituy timl buck (l»y stciiiutir) ..

Niiiiaiino to V'iftoria „

Drivti.s fidiii Victoi'iii to Ks(|iiuimlt, Saiiiiicli, and about Van

COllVtT

Isl

IllKl

7 miles

l;}.-)

Victoria to Taotin.i. I'liijct's Soiiiid (strainer), about
TucoMiu to I'ortlaiid, ( >f("^'on (liy rail and river)

Portland to Missoula by Oregon li.Il. and
Steam Navi<,'atioii Company and Noitliein

Paeilic \i.n

Missoula to Helena, across the Rocky Moun-
tains in a l>u,i,';,'y ...
Il< leiia to (Ilyndon, by Northern TWiticR. It. H'JO „
Total distance — J'ortland, Orej^on, to (Jlyn-
don, Minn(>s()ta
(llyndon to\Vinni))e<^, by St. Paul's, Miiineaiiolis,and Manitoba

JMl. to St. \'ini;ent, thence by Canadian Paeilic R.M

Winnipeij; to Otterburne and Itaek ,, „

NVinni|ie,i,' to Fifteenth Sidinj^ * » »

Fifteenth Sidinj; to Port Calgary, in a wa^j^on
Fort Calvary to Col. d(! Winton's nuiche, und round...
Fudian Head to (^irAppelle visiting tin; district around, and

it'turn to (.^u'Ap|tell(!
Fort Calgary to Prandon, by stage and Canadian racilie U.K.
Flkhorn to Assiniboine farm and back (drive)
P>randon to JNIanitoba City „ ... ... ...

Manitoba City to VV^innipeg, South Wosttirn Il.R. ...

Winnipeg to St i aul's, by Canadian Pacific R. R. to St. Vin-
cent, thenc" by St. Paul's, Minneapolis, and Manitoba P.R.
St. Paul'stoChieago, by Chicago, INlilwaukee, and St. Paul's K.R.
Chicago to Toronto, via Port Huron, by Chicago and Grand
Trunk R.ll. to Port Huron, tlu'iice per CIrand Trunk Pt.R.
Toronto to Montreal, by Crand Trunk R.R. ...

^Montreal to t^uebec ,, „

C^uebec to Liverj)ool, by s.s. Pol ijnesian, Allan Line, via
Moville (actual run)

110

1 .^o

107

1,052

L'(iS
(i-J

40
30

100

700
oo

*J mi

170
104

458
409

501
303
175

2,637

Total distance ... 18,279

* Hniiuhiiig off from Indian Head to vi.sil Qu'Appelle en route West.

WEFiT.

Mum.

• •t

t>>

t »•

AH-

• * •

110

ir)0

1 • •

107

miles

„

1,0. V2

iinitolta

H.H....

208

)

(12

}

71) 'J

• • •

1(1, iirnl

* • •

100

ic^ il.il.

700

( • >

...

170

* • •

104

t. Viii-

a 11.11.

458

sli.R.

409

Grand

V U.K.

501

...

303

175

le, VKi

2,637
18,279

^utc West.

APPENDIX C.

THE KOOTENAY LAKE DISTRICT.

Ilv Mil. W. A. H.Mi.i.iK-UiimiM.vs.

The author of this volunio has su^'^^x'stcd to rnc the la.'ik of
writiiifj;' a description of the Kootenay district in British
Columbia, a task at once j)U'a.sant and sad, lor ])oor Clive's
mcinory will always remain associated in my mind with my
exploration of that interestin«jf section of the l*\ir West.

Crossii!<r the ocean with Clive, Harnchy, and Mitchell, wo had
parted in New York, and small as the world is always said to
he, wo again met a month later three or four thousand miles
away on the beautiful Vancouver Island lapped by the waters of
the Pacific Ocean.

My friends seemed as much pleased with the natural beauties
of tho place as 1 was, and were full of ])raises of Victoria and
of the hospitable people of tho little town. Clive ])articularly
looked halo and well, and his four or five weeks' ramble in the
West seemed to have left on his mind only the very })leasantest
impressions, as such travels naturally would u}K)n a man of
exceedingly active temperament with a keen appreciation of the
beautiful and tho useful, nowhere more closely blended than
on the Pacific slope.

As I look back to the pleasant meeting, to the afternoon's
planning and poring over maps, as I recall the kindly con-
gratulation to my successful return from the Kootenay country,

^ i i

ii^;

r i

;5:>s /./A'/.; ja7^ labouii ly tii]<: far, far west.

iitul \]\o sytn]):itheti(i ears liHttnun<]^ to my appiirently oxtnivajLi^ant
account, ol" all the charms, porFcctions, and dclijj^hts of that
district — as I rctnomhcr the :i,i't(>r-dinner strolls in tlu^ balmy
July ovenin<;-s, surrounded by scenery such as perhaps, in its
harmonious i'eatun's of sea, <j;'laeior-mantled mountains, ruivj;('d
peaks, and forests that have no match in any other portion
of the n'lobe, can nowhere else be enjoyed, it seems hardly
possible that the very one of our party, who, by his sincere
and over keen admiration of Nature paid her the warmest
tribute, should a week or two later have been cut oil" in the
llower of his useful and active manhood.

My description of the Ivootenay land aroused in my three
friends the wish to see somethin*;- of that coiuitry — aiul they
would all three, I believe, have placed themselves luulcr my
protective win«2^ and visited the district in (juestioii had it not
been for the fact that IJarneby had an en<;'ai>'cment, settled
before he left ihi«>'land, to be in the North-Westeru Provinces
the iSth July, Mitchell deeidin*;' to accompany him, while Clive,
much to my pleasure, accepted my invitation to aeeom])any
me on my second tour of exploration to the Kootenay valley
and lake country, he havinjj been on the look-out for some
place of interest where to gpend ten days or a fortnij^ht,
whilst IJarneby was lookinij;- after a matter of business, it
beinjif Clivers intention of ioinini;^ him a<»ain at the ex-
piration of that time. We arranged a rendezvous for the
I'ith or 11th July at Saudpoint, a station on the Northern
Pacitlc Kailway in Idaho Territory. Owinj^ to the shame-
ful carelessness that marks Western oflicialdom, there was a
miscarriaji^e of two telei>'rams, one from Clive to myself, and one
from myself to Clive, the former tellin<^ me that he had arrived
at Sandpoint a day before his time and was anxiously awaiting*
my coming ou the L'3th July, the latter informing him that
owing- to a friend^s danjjerous illness in consequence of an

WEST.

extniva<j;'!U»l
^lits ot that
n \\w balmy
•rliiips, in its
tains, ru,i'-<;T(l
)tluM' i)()rti»»n
lootns lianlly
y his sint'oiv

the wannest
ut oil' in the

in my three
ry — and they
es iinch'v my
m had it not
ment, settU'd
era Provinees
1, while Clive,
o aeeomi)any
tenay valley
lont i'or some
a fortnif^ht,
business, it
at the ex-
ons i'or the
he Northern
the shame-
there was a
elf, and one
had arrived
sly awaitin<Tj
ir him that
enee ol' an

V '"

ArPENDTX a

:5!t!>

aceident in an ont-of-th(!-way little Western town I would
be delayed twenty-Four hours, reaehino- Sandpoint on the
ir)th July. (Mive, not heai-iiiin' from me, and . thinkinfjf, as he
explained to me in a subsecjuent letter, that my business with the
(lovernment at \'ietoria had oblij^^ed me to delay my dej)arture,
deeided that it was h(»])eless waiting for me, left Sandpoint on tin;
J 5th July, a f(!W hours before 1 njyself, iualvini»' use of an
opportune' frei^^-ht-train, reached that plaee. The two tele;i;'rams,
as well as a third undelivered dispateh I had stmt that very
morninji;' to ('live, tellin*^ him 1 would be there in the afternoon,
and askin<^ him to tell my men to be ready for an immediate
start, turned up when it was too late. I was of course much
vexed about the whole oeeurrenee, but as I knew Clive was ij^oinn-
to Cal<^ary from iVIariitoba, I entertained the hope of his
eomiu'i;' across the Kicking- Horse or Crow's Nest Pass, and
lookintj me up from that side.

At ])resent the Kootenay district can best be visited from the
south, Lc, from the United States, the completion in lS<S.'i of
the Northern Pacific Uailway facilitating- the approach very con-
siderably. Where formerly there was no railway within five oi
six hundred miles, there is now a <>'reat main line actually
touching the southernmost extremity of the Kootenay country.

Sandpoint is the station nearest to the Kootenay river, a
very winding" trail about forty miles in length, connecting'
Sandpoint with IJonner's Ferry on Kootenay River, the actual
distance between these tvvo places being very considerably less.

A day or two later I started from Sandpoint for Jionner^s
Ferry, in company of two gontlemen, Commissioners sent by the
Government of British Columbia to examine the Kootenay dis-
trict for official purpoF ;. I had three men and one boy, and
eleven or twelve horses and mules, those that were not ridden
being used as sumpter or pack horses to carry our provisions,
tents, &c. Travelling with a pack-train is but slow work, an

400

LIFE AND LABOUR IX THE FAR, FAR WEST.

hit !

•!

il 1

averag-o of twenty-five miles a day being quite fair progress, for
the horses, if at all heavily packed, can of course only proceed
at a walk. But, on the other hand, it is the most independent
mode of journeying through a wild country. You carry your
hotel with you, and as long as the grub holds out and there is
anything like a trail through the dense forests, you can go
whither you will in a delightfully free and easy manner. For
visitors to Kootenay there is, indeed, at present no choice, for
the narrow Indian trail from Sandpoint to Bonner's Ferry,
through dense forests, is the only approach. Starting at
noon we made a long ride, or to speak more technically,
" (h'ive,'' camping on a little glade when the growing even-
ing dusk made farther progress unwise. Rising with the
sun we got off early (the great secret of pack-train travel),
and reached Bonner's Ferry soon after noon. This place is
called a^*3r the original owner of the ferry across the Koote-
nay, his present successor being the only white settler on the
river for a length of three hundred miles. At one time, some
eighteen or twenty years ago, this ferry mad(; in one short
season a big fortune for the lucky Bonner. It was in the days
of the gold rush to the Upper Kootenay country, when the toll
was paid in pinches of gold-dust, and the big, barge-like ferry-
boat was often crowded by excited gold-seekers, who as long as
they got across did not care what they had to pay. Those days
have long gone by, and during the past years the ferry-barge
has had an easy time, often weeks and mouths without being
used. We were intending to go down the Kootenay River to
the lake, and for this purpose had engaged one of the two old
Hudson Bay batteau, lumbering boats made of inch planks, sawn
by hand from pine logs, and so heavy that four men were
required at the oars to move her.

Let me here interrupt my narrative by a brief description of
the most noticeable geographical and hydrographical features of

VEST.

progress, for
only proceed .
independent
I carry your
and there is
you can go
manner. For
no choice, for
mner's Ferry,
Starting ^^t
e technically,
growing even-
in o" with the
:-train travel).
This place is
3SS the Koote-
settler on the
:)ne time, some
in one short
as in the days
when the toll
,rge-like ferry-
/ho as long as
Those days
he fen-y-barge
without being
;enay River to
,f the two old
b planks, sawn
,ur men were

description of
leal features of

ArrEXDix c.

the Kootenay district, features that make this locality one of
the most remarkable on the North American Continent.

There are two districts known by the name of Kootenay —
the one is Kootenay County, occupying the northernmost ex-
tremity of Idaho Territory (United States of America), the other
adjoining it immediately to the north, known as the District of
Kootenay, occnpying the south-easternmost ])ortion of British
Columbia. They are separated from each other by the Inter-
national boundary line, which is formed by the 49th Parallel,
an invisible line, the position of which, where it crosses
rivers or trails, is marked by so-callod monuments, pyramids of
stones, erected some twenty-throe years ago by the International
Boundary Commission. This line is crossed no fewer than three
times by the waters of the Kootenay river. This remarkable
stream forms, as cai! be seen on the map, an immense loop, and,
together with a similar configuration noticeable in the course of
the Columbia river, encloses the whole district of Kootenay with
an ellipse of water 900 miles in circumference, with only a single
minute break of about one mile and a half in it — i.e., between
the Up})er Columbia Lake and the Kootenay river, which break
will disappear, and an absolute water cordon formed, when a
pro])osed canal connecting these two points shall have been dug.

The Kootenay river is about 400 miles long, and hns its
source in the very heart of the main chain of the llocky Moun-
tains, close to some of the highest and least-known mountains
of the whole range. The upper portion of this river is very
different from the lower course ; fen* 800 miles it flows with few
intervals through narrow and deep gorges, which, notwithstand-
ing many attempts by venturesome gold-seekers, that have cost
several human lives, have, so I am told, never been navigated in
their entiretv.

At Bonner^s Ferry, a point about 100 miles l)y river from
the lake, the whole character of the country undergoes a striking

A A

402 LIFE AND LABOVR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

I * I

1 !

W I

'ii

I !' f ; 1

cliange. At this point the river dohouehes from tl\e narrow and
j^loomy mountain defiles into a h)ve]y sunny valley, from four to
five miles in width, formed by two parallel mountain ranges,
while the character of the stream itself undergoes as great a
change as its surroundings. The turbulent mountain torrent
that in its upper course seethes and foutns over innumerable
rapids and falls is suddenly metamorpho.sed into a stately slov/-
llowiug river of a very considerable depth, averaging fifty-five
feet, and about 000 to 700 feet in width, winding in immense
loops through the perfectly level Lower Kooteuay valley. The
banks are throughout lined with a fringe of stately cottonwood
trees and elder thickets from 100 to 200 yards in width, leaving
the rest of the valley perfectly treeless, huge expanses of waving
grass that attains in Se])tember a height of from four to eight feet.
These meadows merge on both sides of the valley into pine-clad
hills and mountains that rise from the level pastures in pic-
turesque slopes to a height of from 1,500 to 5,800 feet. While
the Lower Kootenay river, following its sinuosities, is quite 100
miles long, the valley it forms from Bonner's Ferry is but sixty
miles in length, the stream being a remarkably tortuous one.

There is no doubt, in view of the surroundings, that this
whole valley land is, geologically speaking, of recent formation,
or, in other words, made land. Kootenay Lake once extended
up to Bonner's Ferry, but has become gradually filled up by
alluvial deposits and vegetable mould, the one swe})t down from
the mountains by the denudating river, the other being the
annual self-manuring deposits of the perennial vegetation that
grows on these "' bottom-lands,^' the result being a silicated
loam mixed with lime, a soil of incomparable fertility, and, being
of great depth, as inexhaustible as it is rich.

This land-forming process is still going on, aided by the
effect of the annual spring inundation of the whole valley
from Bonner's Ferry to the lake, and can best be seen when

EST.

APPENDIX C.

403

narrow and
i-om four to
,ain ranges,
I as great a
tain torrent
innumerable
itately slov/-
ng fifty- five
in immense
^^alley. The
r Cottonwood
idth, leaving
es of waving
to eight feet,
nto pine-clad
tures in pic-
foet. While
, is qtiite 100
is but sixty
•us one.
gs, that this
jnt formation,
,ce extended
filled up by
)t down from
x)Y being the
gctation that
Of a silicated
y, and, being

lided by the

^hole valley

|e seen when

examining the lowest land, narrow strips of mud-flats, at the
mouth of the river. During low water the aninuil layers can
be easily observed on the exposeil and very steep river banks.
The depth to which this composition extends must be very great,
for our careful soundings of the river, displaying, as it does, a
remarkable uniformity of depth — forty-eight to sixty-two feet —
proved to us that the bottom of the river consists of precisely
the same material. So richly charged with this silt is the water
of the river during high water, where it emerges from the rocky
gorges above Bonner's Ferry, that a cui)ful will deposit in a
short time a thick film of silt on the bottom of the vessel.

There is no sign of gravel or sand on the banks, and only in
four or five places in the 100 miles of its lower course do rocks
appear, either in the stream or on its sides, and this occurs only
where exceptionally long reaches of the river approach the side
hills or rocky pine and cedar clad promontories (usually covered
with bunch grass) that project out into the valley in two or three
places.

Ascending any one of these points of view, we see before us
the majestic river gliding ])lacidly along in picturesque curves
without riffle or fall, fringed by groves of fine old trees, that
remind one of the choicest reaches of the Upper Thames, while
wide park-like stretches of grass-land intervene between the river
bank and the immediate background of towering mountains,
which again are intersected by dark glens and gorges, one mass
of sombre pine-forests, sprinkled here and there with the lighter-
hued larch or the graceful ])lumcs of the giant cedar, snow-
flecked peaks closing in the distance the indentures made by the
ravines— a truly charming landscnpe. Nowhere have I seen
such a happy blending of verdure, niauy-hued fn^m the various
species of trees and grasses that compose it, and in no i)art of
the world have I seen such a rare combination of sunny pastoral
landscape interwoven with the attractive features of true Al])ine

A A 2

401

LfFI'l .iy/> LABOUR, LV THfJ FAIi, FAR WEST.

scenery, with its iinposhij^' outlines, and with its charmin;^
atmospheric distances.

When for the first I time saw this scene it was not (juite so
aUuriny;, tliere was a sli<;-ht drawback to the picture I have out-
lined from my .more vivid impression of its subsequent condition
in Aujji-ust, September, and October, for the whole valley was
then, as it is every June, very nearly completely overllowed by
the water of the Kootenay river and lake, makinty of the
beautiful level stretches of meadow inland lakes, over which
we sailed and rowed our craft so as to avoid tbe current in
the stream.

On my second visit in July the water had already disap-
[jcared from most of the valley land, disclosino^ a wonderfully
luxuriant vegetation on the land which had been temporarily
submerg-ed, the surest indication of rich soil being the lar<2^e
growth of " tullies,^' a marsh ])lant which, as extensive draining
experiments in California have pi'oved, grows, so it is reported,
only where very rich soil prevails. There are four principal
species of grass to be found on the land, the swamp grass, the
blue-joint, the red-toj), and a species of cane-like plant, which
grows to a height of fourteen feet. Of the better classes of wild
grass at least three tons of hay can be cut per acre. With a small
mowing macliine and ])air of horses, a man and a boy in my
employ cut in the month of August about twenty-four tons in
two and a half days, off a patch of ground certainly not exceed-
ing seven or eight acres.

That the ground is suitable for cereals was proved to us by
finding so early as July ;i5th a patch of Australian Club vdieat
of good ([uality, four feet high, the ears being well developed
and nearly ripe. It was growing on the river-bank, and pro-
bably had sjirung from some stray seeds dropped by Indians.
Potatoes and tobacco, planted by half-breeds on some of the rocky
promontories, seem to thrive to an unusual extent. Besides the

■EST.

i chai'min«^

not quite so
I have out-
at eouditiou

valley was
'ovilowed by
intr of the
over which

current in

ready disap-
wonderi'ully
temporarily
g the large
jive draining
i is reported,
ur principal
) grass, the
ant, which
isses of wild
ith a small
boy in my
our tons in
not exceed-
ed to us by
Club wheat
1 developed
k, and pro-
by Indians.
A' the rocky
Jesides the

.irrEXDIX C.

105

above grasses I found an abundance of wild flowers, wild an<l
tame thyme growing most profusely, pea-vine, and in the thicket
fringing the streaui several species of wild berry bushes. None
of these plants seemed to have suffered by the temporary inunda-
tion to which they had been exposed. On precisely similar
alluvial land, reclaimed by dykes, on the Lower Fraser River
(British Columbia), and on some other in Washington Territory,
astonishiug crops are raised, of which we have authentic! infor-
mation : — Sugar beet, 2 10 bushels to the. acre ; hops, 2,oOU lbs.
per acre ; potatoes, 20 tons per acre ; wheat, from 50 to SO
bushels ; oats, (50 to (5.5 ; turnij)s, 50 tons, per acre, single buH^s
frei^uently weighing up to '3(5 ll)s., and occasionally as much as
.52 lbs., each. With this great abundance, prices are high; not
a potato that I ate this year in Kootenay district cost less than
2d. a pound, which would make the produce of a single acn;
yielding even six tons fetch £112. Even in the most civilised
portions of the West potatoes rarely cost less than Ul. per lb.

Having on my first visit in June made the ae.piaintance of
the heavy batteau and the toilsome rowing for long days in
this anticpiated craft, I preferred on my subsequent visit to go
down the river in an Indian canoe, the Commissioners and my
men, who made the crew, together with the bulky stores, tents,
&c., making an ample load for the batteau. So, if the reader
will now accompany me down the stately slow-flowing river as
it meanders in great loops through the valley, I shall ask him to
step with me, at Bonner^s Ferry, into the shapely Indian canoe
made of pine or birch bark, so frail a craft that a booted foot
would go through the bottom as if it were of pasteboard, so light
that you can lift it easily with one finger. If we let the two
shaggy-headed '• bucks," a breech-clout their only garb, paddle
us swiftly down the smoothly flowing river, we shall reach one of
the most beautiful mountain lakes that exists in America, or
in the Alps. Comfortably stretched out on a couch of buffalo

i I

4of)

UrE AXD LABOUR /.V THE EAR, EAR WEST.

robes — our 1)0(1 at niii'lit — notliing can l)t ploasanter tlian tlio
motion of our frail craft as we skim over the plaeiil river, round-
in>j^ the curves, now under overhani^in^ cottonvvood trees of g-reat
size, then shooting strain^ht across an abrupt bend, or driftinj^
with the eddyin<^ current in the centre of the stream; astray leaf
or cireliiij'' ripple from a rising fish the only breaks in the
mirror-like surface, while at the next bend round which we
noiselessly dart we surprise some browsin^if deer or a family
of water-fowl, and we are almost in their midst before they rise
to skim out of the way of the unwonted intruders. We have
to sit very steady, for the canoe is crankiness itself, and a very
sli<;-ht movement will destroy the nicely-poised equilibrium of
tlio bark craft and turn us and our mute sha«^<^y-headed boatmen
into the river, no doubt more to our own discomfiture than
theirs. Very beautiful scenery we see, charming beyond de-
scription, by the (piick transition, as we slip along swiftly. In-
voluntarily we crane our necks, as rounding a sharp curve we
eagerly spy for what the next bend will disclose ; but the deep
"iigh^^ of our rear boatman tells us, if the sway of the boat
fails to do so, that we have got to sit steady. There are no
ra])ids or sand bars, but few " snags," and no treacherous
sunken rocks, to endanger navigation. There is not a single
place in the whole lower river — i.e., for a length of some lOH
miles — in which our canoe would not leave ample space for the
Greiil TJanfont, to get out of its way ; no spot in this distance
where II. M.S. Hercnles could not float as safely as the cedar-
bark canoe, which does not draw more than three or four inches
of water.

As previous practice has made us acquainted with the art
of using the Indian paddle, we manage to send the light craft
along at a rattling pace, and the one hundred miles journey is
completed in less than two days, just half the tine it takes the
'* batteau." As we suddenly emerge from the tree-bowered river

EST.

'V than the
ver, roiind-
!es of grout
or drit'tinfjf
astray leaf
aks in the
whicli we
)r a family
re they rise
We have
and a very
ilibrium of
ed boatmen
iHture than
beyond de-
I'iftly. In-
rp curve we
it the deep
)f the boat
here are no
treacherous
)t a singfle
some KM)
Ixee for the
is distance
the cedar-
our inches

Ith the art
|li(i;'ht craft
journey is
takes the
Ivered river

APPENDIX C.

407

into the Kootenay Lake a surprisinfjrly picturesque si«;lit meets
our ^aze. Before us lies a <^rand sheet of \vat(M', some ei}?hty
miles lon<j;', and from two and a half to five miles wide, framed
in on all sides by towering- mountains and snow-capped ])eaks,
all rising very precij)it()usly from the smooth surface of this
charming mountain lake. Smiling yet rugged, attractive yet
solemn, beautiful yet wild, it lies there lonely and unnoticed by
the white invader, who is busily building iron roads to its north
and to its south, to its west and to its east.

Kootenay Lake never freezes over, whether owing to the
presence of liot springs, some of which have already been
discovered on the u])per end of the lake, or whether in con-
sequence of its very great depth, I do not know. ^Ve had only
a two-hundred feet sounding-line with us, and by adding some
odd and end pieces of cord we contrived a threc-luunlrcd feet
line, but in no place five hundred yards from shore, and in many
spots only twenty feet from the rock-bound coast could we
find bottom with it. It is full of fish, the oftcn-doiibted land-
locked salmon* being the largest. Indiaiis report five different
species of trout and salmon. We got rcpri.sentatives of four
quite distinct kinds. The large (land-locked) salmon do not seem
to take the fly, but whether this was in consequence of our being
poor fishermen, or from natural "cussedness" and savage
ignorance, I could not say. AVith one trowl out I have often
caught while rowing on the lake 40 lb. in one hour. They are
excellent eating, and, when boiled, as rich and Haky as the best

* Salmon asoeud tlie Colombia in millions, but none can cfet over flic
falls in the Kootonay Lake outlet, the only connection between the
Columbia and Kootenay Lake, and their presence in the lake would be
exceedingly puzzling but for the close approach of the Kootenay River
to the Upper Columbia Lake, where during very high freshets a con-
nection used to be established. Frim an ichthyological standjjoint
Kootenay Lake is therefore a very intoresting and perfectly unexplored
region.

ill

I I

Hi! \

408

LIFE AND LABOrn IS TIIK I'M!, FAU WEST.

Scotcli salmon 1 liuve ever tasted. For foiir or five months
salmon, carihoo, doer, and water- fowl, t'spccially wild <^ot'se — ol'
which in October literally millions can ho seen feeding on the
marshy spots on the Lower Kootenay valley — were almost onr
sole "^-ruh," and well it hecanie the travcdlers.

The lake, with its nnmerous inflowin*^ creeks and streams
that l)rin<»' down ^reat freshets in spring, has, strange to say,
only otie sini^lo outlet ; it is in conse(|uence of the narrowness of
this mouth that the <^reat annual overflow of the Lower Koote-
nay valley occurs. Li early sj)rinf]f the mountains round the
lake shed their snow-water first, then comes the water from
the mountains of the valley, and by the time the vast quantities
of snow in the main chain of the Rockies bej^i'lns to melt,
the lake has risen some six or ei<j;'ht feet, the outlet bein<j
too narrow to master the vastly-increased inllow, so that, by
the time the late snow-water comes pouring- down the river,
the lake is full, and the inoominj^ volume is backed u]); a
circumstance distinctly proved by the fact that the land nearest
the lake is first overflowed, and remains so a dav or two lon<>'er :
also by the fact that the water-level of the lake commences to
fall three or four days after the river has reached the same
stag-e at Bonner's Ferry at the head of the valley — the two
respective dates this year (1888) being' the 1st July and the
27th June.

The rise of the lake, and therefore the overflow, is not the
same every year. This year (1883) it was below the average,
comparatively little snow having fallen last winter in the main
chain. At Bonner's Ferry the banks of the river are very stcej),
and the owner of the ferry has for years made fairly accurati'
measurements. The highest he has ever known the river to rise,
i.e., the difference between the very lowest water (in March)
and the very highest (June) has been twenty-nine feet (sprinj^
of 1882), the lowest seventeen feet (1869). It must be re-

KST.

AITEXDIX a

•Km

vo months
. ^ceso — ol
in;^ on the
almost our

nd streams
n^t' to say,
rrowni'ss of
•wer Koolo-
roimd thi'
water from
t quantities
us lo melt,
utlet ljein«;'
so that, by
I the river,
Ljkcil uj); a
and nearest
wo lon,<j;'er ;
Inmences to
I the same
— the two
ly and the

,is not the
(le average,
the main
.^ery steep,
ly aeeurate
,^er to rise,
[n March)
it (sprinjif
last be re-

nieml)ered, however, that these jneasurements are laken where
tlie river leaves tlie <;'orn;-es, and lias nut yet spread out over the
adjoiniii','' meadow lands. On these latter, the depth of water,
when at the liighest, varies between six or ci^'iit. feet and oiu;
foot. On most of these nieadow-llats the water drains olT as
quickly as it rises; on one or two of the lower ones it remains
loni,^er.

The prevention of the overflow could, T should say, be
brouji^ht about by works at three points. Firstly by cutting;
a canal between the Ujiper (^)lumbia Lake and the l\.(U)tenay
River, a distance of oiu' and a half niih's, whereby the waters
of the Kooteuay River above the canal coidd be drained into
the Columbia Lake, whieh is some twenty fei't lower in elevation.
At some not very remote ])eri»)d the Kooteuay evidently took
this course, for the nature of the intervenini>' ground abimdantly
proves this singular fact. The canal would take off the late
and particularly dangerous snow-water.

The Kooteuay River, where it would be tiu'ned o(T, is already
an important stream, during high water four hundred or live
hundred feet wide, in the centre from six to seven feet in deptli,
and flowing at a rate of quite five or six miles an hour. During
the gold excitement in that re«4i(m, some nineteen years ago,
a party of five-and-twenty men had already commen('(vl work
at this very jjoint with j)recisely the same end in view — i.r.,
turning the Kooteuay River into the Columbia Lake for the
])urpose of washing for gold in the bed of the river, and expected
to complete the work in one season. Lack of provisions anil
funds obliged them to give up the undertaking.

The other two ])oints are on the outlet of the lake, where
by widening it at the "Narrows " or at the " Ra])ids^^ the rise
of the lake would be prevented. The " Narrows " is a most
singular place, the outlet river being at this point narrowed to
a channel of 311 feet by two Ijanks of large cobblcstone-sha})ed

1 .

410

LTFI': AM) LAUOVR JN TUK FAU, FAR WEST.

l)()til(lt'rs, (l('p(»si<»'(l at this rritical point in tin* conrHe of no-os
by two sidj! streams nishin<^ down From the impending; moun-
tains on citlu'r side.

Tlu! climate, tocomo to n most important point, is apparently
all that can ho dcKircd. OF warm summers, and fine, raiidess
autumns, \ ean speak From experience, for 1 was in the Kootenay
country off and on up to the middle of Deeemher, 18^<.■}. The
winters do not aj)pear to be severe, for on arrivinj^* there in
spring I Found the cattle and horses of the natives, who are in
the habit of winterinj^ them in the lower valley, lookinj^ Fat and
sleek, and from Indians, as well as the few white Indian
traders who have been in the country For years, it appears that
the depth oF snow has, so far as is known, never exceeded (in
the Lower Kootenay valley) two feet in dej)th, while in most
years it lies only twelve to fiFteen inches for about two months.
The only thermomctri(;al winter observation ever made in the
valley is that of a reliable trader who passed the exceedingly
severe winter of 1880-1 at Honner's Ferry. It was a winter
which will be remembered for many years throunjhout the West,
and T myself experienced six hun<lred miles south of Kootenay
a cold of tifty-two degrees below zero, while the thermometer in
Kootenay, according to my inFormant, whom I have no reason
to disbelieve, never went that winter lower than fourteen
degrees below zero. Of the snowfall he said as foUcws : — "Snow
fell in November, but disappeared in a few days. The regular
winter Fall commenced about Christmas, rea(;hed a depth of two
feet in February, and disap])eared about the 1st of April. '^ In
the same winter over two hundred thousand head of cattle died
on the far more southerly but also much more elevated ranges
in Wyoming, Utah, and Colorado, while east of the Rocky
Mountains the cold was equally intense, and the snow of great
and lasting depth.

Father Fouquet, of the Catholic Mission, in the Upper

AI'l'lJNDIX C.

Ill

Kootciiay, siiyti, in his report on liis IiidiaiiH to tlir (iovcru-
nu'iit : — "Not one lu'iid ol stot'U has died in constHHU'ncc of
Hi'VtMV wcatlicr in ninr years." A letter written .lannary ;i!Mli,
18^4, Troni the Kootenay district, says ; — "'I'liere is very little
Know at Bonner's I'Vrry ; six inelies in the valley. Your stock
is doincr woll without any Iced; the coldest ni;;ht here this
winter was six helow zero;" while a later one, dated :'!ltli
March, informs nut that the snow has di-sappeared in many
places, and that no losses in stock have to he noted — very en-
court ..•ing' news, Tor the past season lias heen an e\cecdin^Iy
severe one in most parts of the West and North- West.

As yet no extensive? exju'riments respectin«jj cattle-raisin«j;' in
the Jjower vallev have heen niaile hv white men, the onlv
attempt to follow the example of ahorij^-inal cattle-owners hein^-
that of a l)nt(thman — about the last person one would suppose
inclined to exi)erimentalise with his hard- won savings — who had
a little farm some eiifhty or ninety miles south of Honner^s
Ferry. This homestead he sold in the autumn of 1SS2, and for
the money boujj^ht some seventy liead of two and three-year-old
cattle at the then low price of between twenty and thirty dollars a
heail. He drove his band to the Kootenay bottoms, ami wintered
them close to the boundary-line, leavin^' an Indian in char^'e of
the herd while he himself returned to more civilised parts to
jyain his livin<if by carpenter! nc^. The Indian i)roved a faithless
<4'uardian, and went off, leavin<^ the cattle to njani whither th(>y
liked, so that when in si)rin<i^ the ownei returned he could only
find some fifty odd head. Notwithstanding this loss, the plucky
Dutchman's venture — a typical example, by the way, of frontiers-
man's nerve, in riskinf^ his all in apparently wild scliemes, a
spirit that largely helps to settle up uncivilised districts — proved
a financial success, for he sold his cattle a few months later to
a butcher at Sandpoint for sixty dollars a head, i)rices having
gone up in the meanwhile. Of course this example led to

!• m

412

LIFE AND L.innUR [X THE FAll FAR WEST.

ii Jiii!

further attempts, aiul wlien I left the L)\ver Kootenay valley
last autumn there were already three equally poor hut ad-
venturous cattle-men with three hundred head of cattle on the
bottoms. It is too early to say how their ventures have turned
out, thoun-h I myself entertain no doubt on that head ; all the
features of the c()unt)y, its low elevation, only 1,750 feet over
the Pacilie, its sinij^ularly sheltered position, the prevalence of
the warm Chinook winds in winter, the presence of immense
(jufintities of the finest eattle-fodder that can be had simply for
the (Hittinf? and staekinj^, combine in makin<4- it one of the most
favoured spots for cattle-raisin<»' I have ever seen, thouo^h of
course, if the drainaji^e scheme of these bottoms succeed, it will
become too valuabh; land .) raise only hay on it.

In rei^ard to means of communication, Xootenay will be
soon well provided for; from the north and east by the Canada
Pacific Railway (to be quite completed in ].S8(»), from the west
by the Kootenay and Columbia Railway, and from the south by
a branch line from the Northern Paeifle to Conner's Ferry on
Kootenay River. It was, I believe, last autumn the intention of
the Northern Pacific Railway Company to construct, in ISS].,
this branch line (less than thirty mill's in len<>'th), but recent
events, and a chan<i^e in the manas^ement, will now, I am afraid,
retard the carrying out of this idea.

On the Kootenay River and lake there will be steamers, and
the " <;lobe trotter^^ of the future on his American tour, will, no
doubt, be an appreciative customer of a conneetin<>- link between
the Northern Pacific and the Canada Pacific lines that will take
him throu<i^h a district which I can safely pronounce nm-ivalled
for scenery. The enter})risin<i;" San Francisco capitalists who are
about to construct a railway above the Kootenay Lake outlet,
will thereby iireatly benefit the district, for the twenty miles
covered by their line is the only missino- link in the otherwise
unrivalled water connection between Bonner's Ferry and Eag-le

iVEST.

ArrExnix c.

413

)letiay valloy
oor but ad-
Mittle on the
! have tuvnod
loaii ; all the
50 feet over
prevalence of
of immense
ad simply for
! of the most
n, thou<jjh of
leeeed, it will

enay will be
)y the Canada
■rom the west

the south by
or's Ferry on
e intention of
met, in ISSI,
i), but recent

, I am afraid,

[steamers, and
tour, will, no
link between

Ihat will take
ice unrivalled
ilists who are
Lake outlet,
[twenty miles
the otherwise
Iry and Eag-le

Pass, on the Columbia River, where the Canada Paeilic Railway
will cross it, thus cnal)lin<^ the future tourist to step from his
palace car at Bonner's Ferry on to a river steamer, which will
take him one hundred miles on the Kootenay River, forty
miles over the lake, and twenty miles down the outlet to the
" Rapids/' where this water road becomes unnavi^able, and
thence the railway to take him to the Columbia River, where he
ag'aMi steps on board a steamer to be taken one hundred and
bixty miles to Kaji'le Pass and the Canada Paeilic Raihvav.

lliT

As so many contradictory statements have been lloati
throug-h the American and Eng'lish press concernin<^ the insur-
mountable difliculties that obstruct the Canada Pacific route
across the Selkirks, between Kickin<r Horse and Kagle Pass, in

Kootei

show that th

..ootenay district, it may not be out of place to sUow tnat tins
is not the case. On January 1st, 18S.t, the railway line was
j^nvded up to the summit of the Rocky Mountains, some sixty
miles west of Calfjary, to which latter place regular trains were
running in September. An extract from ihe chief of the
en<^ineerin«^ staff. Major Rog-cr's ollicial rei)ort to the authorities
will explain in lucid terms that no insurmountable obstacles
obstruct the construction of the route across the Selkirks.
Major Rog^er says: — ''The route adopted proceeds from the
summit of the Rockies westerly down the Kickin<j^ Horse River,
44-. 70 miles to the valley of the Columlna, which it follows in a
north-westerly direction nearly thirty miles, until it enters the
valley of the Beaver, thence about twenty miles to the summit
of the Selkirks. From this latter point it descends westerly
down the east fork of the Hlecilliwaut, about twenty-three miles,
to a junction with the main stream, which it follows north-
westerly about twenty-three miles to the west crossing- of the
Columbia. A maximum gradient of 110 feet per mile is found
necessary in the descent westerly from the summit of the Rockies
down the Kickinir Horse Pass for a distance of about seventeen

4U LIFE AXD LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

miles, and a<>'ain for a distance ot' two miles in the Lower Kiekin<^
Horse. The same j^radients are used in the ascent of the Sel-
Icirlvs for about sixteen miles, and for nearly twenty miles down
their west slope. In no instance is this rate of <^'rade exceeded,
and a |)ro})er compensation for curvature is made in every case
by a reduction of the rate of ,i]i;rade. We have used a minimum
rate of curvature of ten dej^rees, mainly in Kickini^ Horse
Valley, but only an occasional use of that rate cd' curvature in
the canyon of the Columbia and in the Selkirks. I am confi-
dent, however, that in the linal adjustment of the line, after the
ri<^ht of way shall have been cleared, a material improvement
will be made in this respect. There will be three crossinc^s of
the Kickin*^ Horse in the ujiper valley and eii>-ht in the lower,
all of one span, and no span exceedini;- :iUU feet. The lirst, or
easterly crossing" of the Columbia, will require a bridif-e of 350
feet in length, and the west crossinj^ about SOO feet. Tunnellint>^
will be required as follows : — In Upper Kickinj^ Horse, 1,800
lineal feet ; in Lower Kicking; Horse, 2,4'00 ; in Columbia Canyon,
!i,300 ; in east slope of Selkirks, none; in west slop ; of Selkirks,
not to exceed l,iJOO ; making" a total of 7,600 lineal U'et. The
track having reached the summit of the Rockies, tlure remains a
gap of not over :J70 miles to be completed between that point
and Kamloops. The highest elevation attained is that in the
Rockies, 5,800 feet. The highest elevation to be overcome in
the Gold range is the Eagle pass, which is not more than -iOO
feet higher than the west crossing of the Columbia.^'

1 have hitherto contined myself almost exclusively to the
Lower Kootenay Valley, which forms only a porti(m of the large
Kooteiuiy district, that extends beyond the so-called '' Big
Bend," i.e., the northernmost bend of the Columbia River.*
For practical pur{)oses one might divide the district into the

* It irt just as wi'll to moiitioii tlint in Wusliiiigtoii Torritory there is
also a " Big Bond (.'ountry," and the two nuist not be coni'ouuded.

WEST.

iower Kiekiny:
lit o£ the Sel-
[y miles down
■lido exceeded,
' in every ease
'd a niininium
ickin<^ Horse
f curvature in
I am eonli-
liue, alter the
improvement
e crossint^s of
in the lower,
The lirst, or
bridi^e of •55(1
t. Tuunellinj^
Horse, 1,8(K)
imbia Canyon,
) ! of Selkirks,
id U'et. The
I're remains a
■n that point
is that in the
overcome in
)re than i-(M)

ArrENDix a

415

lively to the
n of the hirge
-called "Bi---
imbia River.*

rict into the

rritory there is
Diniik'il.

Upper Kootenay country, the Upper Columbia or Big" Bend
Valley, and the Lower Kootenay Valley, of which latter we
have already heard ])erhaps too much. The Upper Columbia
Valley commences, as it is perhaps needless to point out, at
the two Upper Columbia lakes, small, but very })icturesquely
situated sheets, that will receive material increase of water bv
the proposed canal connectinji^ it with the Kootenay River.
Following the Columbia round its bend till it strikes the
International boundary at the Old Hudson Bay Post, Fort
Shepherd, we have to travcd Ml miles, about half of which
passes throuf^h a well-timbered country, havin<;' in places rich
agricultural soil. The country round the Upper Columbia lakes,
and for a short distance down either water-way, is an inviting
" bunch ij^rass " locality, which, to stock-raisers, ou<>ht to be
hijifhly attractive, for not only w ill " ranches " there be exceed-
ingly favourably situated as to railway communication by way
of the Canada Pacific, but the country, so far as the painstaking
examination of the Government Commissioners coidd demon-
strate, is favoured, taking its position into consideration, by a
mild winter climate, only inferior to that of the Lower Kootenay
Valley, which is more sheltered against the cold north and
easterly winds. .

To a man desirous of starting into stock-raising with no more
expansive aims, there are perhaps few more inviting localities
than this Upper Kootenay district, though more money can,
Ithink, be made in the Lower Kootenay Valley, there being in
the latter locality every opportunity of also root and maize
fattening his cattle, a combination which nowadays returns the
largest prolits.

The whole Kootenay district will probably soon be a great
mining country, for there is no doubt of the })resence of large
deposits of auriferous and argentiferous ores. The last \'ictoria
paper I received confirms news about which I heard rumours

416

LIFE AXD LABOrU IX TJIi: FA I', FA I! ]\i:sT.

before lcavin<j: tlio KoottMiay district, a month or two a<?o,
relatitij'' to a very rich strike ri<;-ht on the aj)ox of the Kicking'
lltirse I'ass, close to the Canada Paeifio Railway, and rcsultin<jf
in a town, called " Silver City/' suddenly si)rini;in^ up amidst
the deep winter's snow, which on those elevations falls to a dej)th
of four or live feet. Similar, and even more extensive mineral
discoveries, have heen made on the southern extension of the
Selkirk l{aii«::e, in Idaho Territory (where they chano-e their name
to Coeur d'Alene Mountains), discoveries that have caused a
<;vneral gold fever on the entire Pacilic slope, and this sprin!L!;
])rol)ahly 15,1)00 or :iO,000 people will he " prospectins^'^ the
inhospitahle Coeur d'Alene Mountains, attracted by these dis-
coveries. I take a low iiii|;nre, the popular estimate of the pro-
bable intlux beinjif all the way from 50,000 to 100,000 miners.

Some twenty years a»;'o there was, as I have already men-
tioned, for a season or two, a Hourishing* minin«j^ camj) on the
I'pper Kootenay River, on Wildhtu'se Creek, where in two
summers over £l;iO,00(i in y^old was " placer mined," i.e.,
washed from the soil by rude mechanical contrivances.

There is still a little settlement there with some ilozen or so
of white men, and fifty or sixty Chinamen, whose jtostal com-
municiition brino-s them outside news but eii^'ht times u year,
but who nevertheless enjoy the privilej^e of returning' one of
their number as member to the Provincial Parliament at Vic-
toria. It is sinj^'ular to find amonii;' the hoary ])eaks of the
Rocky Mountains, ri^-ht in the heart of this 5>'reat inland chain,
little settlements of fru^-al Chinamen dig-^ing" and delvinji",
washin*]^ and " panniniic" with restless activity, jifencrally }^*oin<]^
»)ver the same soil or grounil which white men have pretty nearly
exhausted, or which is of such evident poor (piality as to be
thrown aside by them. It is a mystery how they get there;
nobody wants them, nobody took them there, nobody showed
them the way, and yet there they are, often hardly able to

APPEXDIX C.

417

speak more than a word or two of " pi«^eon English." I have on
several occasions found such little communities, consistin;;' only
of Chinamen, in the most desolately out-of-the-way places hii^-h
up, 10,001) feet over the sea, on or above timber-line, where
perhaps not more than two or three stran<^ers will jxinetrate in
the course of years. Once a year they will proceed to the
nearest settlement, often a week's travel off, })urchase a few
pony-loads of rice and tea, their sole food, and return to their
isolated little log cabins.

Riding along the narrow Indian trails, where such penetrate
the dense forests of British Columbia, you frequently come upon
some mysterious Chinese sign-inscription burnt or cut into a
"blaze" on a tree, showing that some frugal "China camp" is
somewhere or other ahead of you, perhaps a mile, perhaps a
hundred miles.

On Kooteuay Lake itself unusually large deposits of low-
grade Galena ore have been discovered, ore which, while it is
two-thirds pure lead, contains also some silver, the assays show-
ing about .€5 to £0 of silver to the ton, the percentage of lead
averaging over sixty per cent.

Singular to say, these mines were no sooner discovered, than
the usual lawsuiting peculiar to mining camps was commenced,
and where the year before only three white men were the sole
inhabitants of a district as large as Switzerland, there twelve
months later four important mining lawsuits were pending, and
judge, lawyers, constables, and a host of witnesses assembled in
a diminutive hastily- created log-cabin court-house, the only
dwelling with a window in it in all Lower Kootenay. For
many days the court sat in the lowly log' cabin, standing on the
brink of the primeval forest skirting a sandy beached bay of the
beautiful Kootenay Lake. What comment upon man's aggres-
siveness did tliis law-court in the utter wilderness not suggest
to the breechclout-clad listeners, who, in travelling up to the

B B

418 LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAR, FAR WEST.

favourite hunting-grounds at the northern extremity of the hike,
would pass the mines a..d would occasionally run their lig-ht
little canoes ashore to take a peep at the proccedin»^s in the
white man's church — as they called our court — stalkin<]^ into our
midst in all the natural, thoupfh naked difji-nity of their race.

This Lower Kootenay country has, with three exceptions,
been visited up to the ])ast year by none but stray " pros-
pectors'' feold minei-s), and these exceptions, stran<^e to say,
were all men of mark. The first was the well-known naturalist,
David Douf^has, sent out to the Columbia River Country in J S2 !•
and 1827 by the Royal Horticultural Society of Euf^land, and
who visited the district on two occasions. On the first occasion
he crossed the Rocky Mountains with the Jnu/utl Krpress of
Hudson Bay Company, an "express" that took more than five
months from ocean to ocean. In his most interesting^ journal
(that of the second voyage got lost in a canoe disaster), of which
it is hard to find a copy, he speaks of the difference in the
climate between the eastern and western slopes of the Rocky
Mountains, using the words : " The difference of climate and
soil, with the amazing disparity in the variety and stature
of the vegetation, is truly astonishing. One would suppose
it was another hemisphere — the change is so sudden and so
great."

The next visitor came in 1814, and was one who became a
resident, and some few years ago died in the country. No less
than the pioneer of that most useful and benign class of men,
the French missionaries, who forty years ago left their sunny
France to bury themselves in the Oregon wilds, when they were
yet a perfectly unexplored wilderness. Father de Smet has made
himself a high name, not only as the founder of these Oregon
Missions, but as a traveller of acute observation and undaunted
courage. The three little books he has left us, now also quite
rare, are to me most attractive chronicles of a modest and

EST.

ArPEXDIX c.

419

)f the lake,
their H^ht
nirs in the
i\iv into our

eir race,
exceptions,
ray '' pros-
njre to say,
Li naturalist,
itry in 1 S:l 1
Inf^land, and
lirst occasion
/ Kvpress of
)re than five
itin^ journal
ter),of which
}renee in the
I the llocky
climate and
and stature
•uld suppose
.dden and so

10 became a
ry. No less
ilass of men,

their sunny
en they were
let has made
[these Oregon
Ld undaunted
L)W also quite

modest and

unassuminfy man's life sacrificed to a f]food cause. In simple
unpretentious words he narrates all the luitold vicissitudes of
his thirty years' teaclnnp;' among the wild aborigines of the
North-AVest. I'^utirely cut off from intercourse with white
fellow-beings, this remarkable man lived only for his Church
and for his "naked children." De Smet gives us a ])leasing
picture of the Indians that inhabit tliis district, i.e., the
Kootenay tribe, divided into the Upper and the Lower sub-tribes.
I have hitherto said almost nothing about the natives as I found
them in 188'i. I was most pleasantly surprised, after what I
had seen for the past six or seven years of the United States
Indians, to find the Kootenays a very different race, and I can
in every respect re-echo the old missionary's warm praise of
this remarkable tribe, which, as he very truly says, " present a
delightful, unexpected spectacle to find in the bosom of these
isolated mountains on the Columbia, a tribe of poor Indians
living in the greatest purity of manners, and among whom we
can discover the beau ideal of the Indian character uncon-
taminated by contact with whites. The gross vices which dis-
honour the red man on the frontiers are utterly unknr)wn among
them. They are honest to scrupulosity. The Hudson Bay
Company, during the forty years that it has been trading in
furs with them, has never had the smallest object stolen from
them. The agent of the Company takes his furs down to
Colville (two hundred miles away) every spring, and does not
return before autumn. During his absence (he being the only
white man in the country) the store is confided to the care of
an Indian who trades in the name of the Company, and on the
return of the agent renders him a most exact account of his
trust. I repeat now what I stated in a preceding letter, that
the store often remains without any one to watch it, the door
unlocked and unbolted, and yet the goods are never stolen. The
Indians go in and out, help themselves to what they want, anil

B B 2

LIFE AND LABOUR IN THE FAB, FAB WEST.

always scrupnlcmsly leiivc in place of whatever artielc tliey take
its exact value."

It will 1)0 iH'rlmps hardly credited hy those who are ac-
quainted with the Indians, south in the United States, east in
the North-Western Provinces of Canada, and west and north
in British Cdlunihia, when I say that to a ^reat extent I found
the Kootenays to be in 1SS,'3 just what De Smet described them
to be in 1815, the only exception ])erhaps beinj';' that gambling
amon*;' themselves has increased to a danji^erous dejj^ree. They
are, without exception, of all Indian tribes on the North
American continent outside of Alaska Indians, the only tribe that
are still perfectly untrammelled by white man's i)resence in
close proximity. They have no reserves and no ajj^ents, the
Government has no relation whatever with them, the forest and
stream supplyinji;' them with all they need. No census has ever
been taken of their number; they are perfectly unacquainted
with any lanf^uaj^-e but their own, not even Chinook, the
universal langua«^e of the Pacific slopes, being understood by
them. They keep entirely to themselves, and never leave their
o\vn district. Intermarriages with other tribes are exceedin<^ly
rare, and their tribal number has api)arently neither decreased
or increased. They are all devout Catholics, and Father
Fouquet, the present missionary, has them seeming-ly well in
hand. I employed quite a number of the Lower Kootenays in
188JJ about me, and found them quite exceptional Indians :
willino- to work, honest, and unspoilt by any white man's vices,
for gamblintr is not of that class, it is inherent to the Indian
character. They are also, for Indians, a remarkably cheerful and
laughter-loving people.

But the simple Kootenays' days are numbered, for the whites
are beginning to invade their isolated realm, and this year they
are going to have a reserve assigned to them by the Government.
It will be an interesting though suggestively sad study to watch

APPENDIX €.

421

the rapid doterioration wliich will inevitably tiiko place. The
evening prayer bell that now sounds in every little Kootenay
<'amp, strani»'ely out of place as it seems, will no longer be heard,
while the breech-clout will be replaced by white men's cast-off
dress.

De Smet j^ives some interestin<^ details of the conversion
of the Kootenay Indians. One little incident will sudice to
show the exceptional character of this tribe. " On the day
appointed/' Father de Smet says, "for the administration of all
these sacraments, the youn<«' Kootenay ])resented bimself with
a humble and modest air at the ('onfession.'. lie held in his
hands some bundles of cedar chips, about the si/e of ordinary
matches, and divided into small bunches of different sizes.
After kneelini>' in the Confessional and saying' the Confession, he
Ijandcdtlie little bundles to the priest. 'These, my father/ said
he, 'are the result of my. examination of conscience. This
bundle is such a sin ; count the chips and you will know how
many times I have committed it. The second bundle is such a
sin,' and so he continued his confession.'' Father de Smet
would have been a «^ood land-company promoter, for he writes
about the Kootenay district in a pleasantly attractive style.
Like myself, he first c(»ntem plated the Lower Kootenay Valley
from an eminence — very prol)ably the very same rocky foi'cland
from which I looked down — " where the graceful river of the
Arcs-a-plat — as the Kootenay was formerly called — winds in
such fantastic beauty, that it serves to make the weary traveller
not only for<^et his past dangers, but amply compensates him
for the fatigue of a long and tiresome journey." And in those
days it was Mideed a long and tiresome journey that took the
traveller to the isolated Kootenay Valley, De Sraet's letters
to his Father Superior, taking from fifteen to eighteen months
to reach him, while tf)-day you can reach the Kootenay river
in fifteen days from London. De Smet also gives some

422

LIFJJ AXD LAUOUli IX THE I'M!. FAR WEST.

intcrcslin''' details altniit tlic cliiiiMtc worfliy oT notice, for lie
lived in tlio land oF the Kootenavs and Flat-heads for thirty
years. In winter, he says, "the teinperatnre is remarkably

ini

Id.

severe cold hein^ a rare ocenrrenee, anc

1 tl

10 snow IS seldom

ld(

deep. It falls freijuentiy during- the si'ason, hiil disappears
almost as it falls, or is driven oil' hy the sonthern hreezt'.
Horses and horned cattle lind abundant pasture (luriii<»" the
whol(? yea''/' In another place he says: — ** We were enchanted
by the beautiful and diversified scenery, now presenting- park-
like })astur'^es frin<^'ed in by stately old trees, then of Ali)ine
character; «;'loomy <.;-or<i:es and snowy ])eaks, framed in by
(grooves of •Ji'iant cedar-trees/'

" What would,'' he exclaims, " this now so solitary and
isolated land become under the fostering hand of civilisation ?
The hand of man would transform it into a terrestial jjaradise."
And, indeed, there is some truth in these words. Throu^-hout
my six years' rambles in the West and Ncjrth-West — in the
course of which I have left imvisited but few districts between
New Mexico and British Columbia — I have never seen anythin<^
at all like the Kootenay country, and specially the lower valley,
representing" a combination of features that, perhaps with one
isolated exception — i.e., that of the Willamette Valley, in Ore.yon
— is as non-American as possible. A more self-contaiiied little
realm it would be diflicult to lind even in Europe, for it has almost
everything" that the genus settler can desire : an excejjtionally
rich soil of great depth, where, when once drained, anything
from mai/x' to melons, and from hops to tt)baeco, can be grown ;
fine and almost limitless pine, larch, and cedar forests, which,
alth(jugh they cannot compare with the uiirivalled Douglas fir
forests to be found along the Pacific coast of British Columbia,
are yet finer than anything in Eurojie, or in the eastern ])ortions
of the Continent; a river Mud lake affording navigation such as
1 do not know of in o'.y other locality, while round the lake are

ArVENDIX C.

423

Vory considerable deposits of itiiirhle, fire-cliiy, iron, lead, and
silver ores, the presence of water-power to drive mills l)ein<; a
further important eeonomie feature. Evi'ry country has, of
course, its drawhaeks; those of Kootenay, with tiie excejition of
the unnu;d sprinj^ overllow, and a, six weeks' seourj^e of mos-
tpiitoes (from which, however, until the land is drained, it is
easy to jscape, there bcin<i^ none on the shores ol" the lake), I
have yet to discover.*

The third visitors to the Kootenay district were important
persona«''cs, namely, the Internatiomd lioundary CommissKtn,
the J'jnylish ))ortion of which was under command of Licutenant-
(xeneral Sir J. S. llavvkms, U.K. Unfortunately the re])ort <tf
the Commissioners, with numerous i^eoj^ra pineal, astronomical,
and ethnoy^raphical notes, wa.s never published by the (iovern-
ment, but lies buried in the stronj^-rooms of the Forcij^n Ollice.
One of tlie few published })apers that I could discover was written
by Sir Charles Wilson, who accom|)anied the (commission, 1
liclieve, in the character of chief topojjcraphcr. Jt <leals with an
intercstint^ subject, the Indian tribes inhabitin<jf the Pacific
slope between the Rocky jNIountains and the Pacilic Ocean,
alon<^ the lV)rty-ninth Parallel, which forms, as we know,
the boundary-line between the I'nitcd States and British
Columbia. Sir Charles AVilson has only <to(xI to say of the
Kootenays, describin<^ them as "a very interestinfjj tribe, which,
speaking a widely different lan^-naii^e, and walled in by high
ranges of mountains, is entirely isolated.^' " The Kootenays,''
he continues, " were decidedly the finest race of Indians met
with during tlie progress of the Commission ; tho men were tall,
averaging five feet nine inches, with sharp features, at|uiliue

* A report upon the Kootenay country by Mr. G. M. Sproat, formerly
Asj;ent- General of British Columbia in London, has boon issued by the
Provincial Goverunu'nt. and can be obtaiTied, I believe, by applyiuff to the
Louduu Agout-Geueral of British Columbia, oG, Fiusbury Circus, E.C.

i2i l.lFi: A\I) LAW Hit IN TIN'] I'M!, I'All WEST.

» Vi

nosoB, l)la<'k hair and *'y»'s, and very lonj^ black fyeliHlu'S.
They bear tho rcpututiou ol' boin^ brave, hon»'f<t, and trulliful,
and pride themselves on the fact that no while man ban ever
been killed l)y ono of their tribe. Several of the Lower Koote-
naya have small herds of cattle and patchesof r\iltivated {ground,
and one of the chiefs, called Jose|)h, had a small farm on the
waters of the Koolenay, with a band of seventy horses and
thirty head of cattle. The horses of the Upper Kootenays are
wintered on the Tobacco IMains (on the upjier course of the
river), those of the Lower Kootenays near the Kootenay Lake,
at neither of which places is there any j^reat depth of snow
ilurinjjf the winter."

No doubt a very few years .vill see great chanji^es in the
Kootenay district, dottin<^ the park-like lower valley with farm-
houses, while on the breezy uplands on the Upper Kootenay river
will roam herds of cattle and horses, fattened on the nutritious
bunch-g'rass that covers the valley and foot-hills.

INDEX.

AociiiKVT— i» aHOPtit to MiirHliiiU'M
I'asN, '2') ; near N(<w Cliicii^fo, 170.

narrow <'M('iij)('m t'rniii, 17<i.

AKfii-ulturf ill Coloradu, l!), 24 ; in
<'iilif.)niia, 'n, MIt, H'l, «<> ; in
l5ritiHli Culiiml.la, 117, 11 «. i:i7 -
1 Kt, !.-)! ; in Dakota, l',H». l!ll,
\'.y.i; in the (Jn'A])i«'ll(' (li^trici,
•j()7_'21(),22() -'i'i^; in tln-Nortli-
WcMt,, 'J.Vi— 2r)» ; in tin- South-
Wi'st. 'J7!»; at Brandon, '.'!»H; at
J)cloiain(', ;j(t.")— "lUO; lictwoen
Cai-t\vri),>'ht an<l Manitoba City,
;U.')— ;i'.!(t; in Soutlnni ]\Ianitol)a,
:}'J;i— :}:(;{ ; near JIanitol.a City,
'i'M, ;5.')(1; anions tiio Mt'nnonitt'H,
;{.'i7 — :Hii) ; in tho Ketl liivor
Valley, ;i70 — ;J79 ; in tlii' Asnini-
lioint' V'allt'v, liHl ; in the Ivoot-
enav Lake f)iHtrii't, lOl, lOo.

Allan, Mr. A., :{H7.

Alli'ffliany Mountains, D.

Americans, hospitality of, ; activity
of, -it).

Ameiican Raihvay.s, pcncral infornia-
tion oonctTninfj:, 4—7.

Anderson, Mr., 142, 14;{, 14.).

Artirii, spot^iiiiens of, '2().

Asheroft, British Columlna, 112, 117.

Assinihoinc Fanu, 292 — 2'J4.

Kiver, .'581.

Atchfson, Captain, 99.

" Ba(!hclorfi' Homo," 304.
Baillic-Grohnian, Mr., i;U, l')2, IGJ ;

appendix of, o97 — 424.
Baker, Mr. Ed<;ar Crow, 104.
Balsam, the. Specimens of, 48, ol, CI.
Bath, Mr., «0.

Bay Point, California, 84, 85.
Bear, A young, glunp.sc of, GO.

Bear's Mouth Station, 171.

I^'^'hv, Cliief Justice, lol, 1V2.

Bill, 'Dr., i;}.

Tarm, 207, 208.

Bell, Jfajor, 207.

Beiiifia, ';{9, 87.

Bennett, Mr. C. K., 99.

Big Bend Valley, 409

Billings, 1H7.

Bismarek, 190.

" Black Canon," The, 28.

Black-foot Indians, 'I'lie, 2.')0, l.i't —
2(12.

Black-foot Bass, 179.

Blizzard, A, 70.

Blyth's IMine, 190.

Bonner's Ferry, ;{.)4.

Boston Bars, Briti.nh Cnlumhia, 114.

"Bozemar" Tunnel, '1 hi', 187.

Bow Biver, 90'i.

Boundary line i.etween British Colum-
bia and the United Sijtes, 9"), 1(14.

Brandon, 204, 29.').

Breakdown, A, 17(i.

" Bridal Veil," The, Yoscmite Valley.

British Columbia — ilimato of, 1 ,']:{,
1154; i)rospect8 of, 130; drunken-
ness in, 140, 141 ; l)eauty of, 14.").

British Columbians and Canadians,
feeling between, loO.

Biydges, Mr., 19.').

Brydges, Mrs. F., 37G.

Buffaloes, 241.

Buffet, California, 73.

Burial, Indian, 109, 213, 20.').

Burrard's Inlet, 100, l')4.

Calgary Fort, 270—27').
Campbell's Farm, 380—384.
CauadiauMountedPolice,The, 232,233.

426

JMjEX.

( *

Cunudian racific Kaihvay, now tir-
iiiiims of, 1()(), I'l'.i, l.)t — l')G.

Steam Navi'^-'atiou Co., Tlie,

IK).

Cuiiadiiiii.s and T?riti.--li Columbians,
I'cclin;;- l)it\v<'('n, loO.

(Janocs, Indian, lli'i.

('ai)itan, Kl, Ynscmito Valliy, •<(), .")(i.

Cai)ot' LilxTty, The, Yosoniite Valley,

Ol, 0(), iKS.

Cape riattery, !) 4, '.):,.

{■arihoo, l'.iiti.sli Columbia, Hi.

Cartv'i'i^lit, :ii;i.

Ca.scade Mountains. Tlie, i:)S, 1 tl. 112.

Cathedral liocks, Vosemite Valley, nl.

Cedar Mountiiin, lis.

Central I'aciiic Kaihvay, 3.'), 44, 87.

Chira^'o, .'{<S7.

Cliilliwaik, I'Vaser River, 11 G.

Chine.se, The- lit San l''ranci,seo,40,41,
.S4 ; at Victoria, 101 ; at Somervillc
l^ay, IIT), rjs ; in the Kootenay
Lake District, 417.

Cholera and Diarrha'a Tablets, 375.

Chlorodyne, U7o.

Cimarron, Stop])a^''e at, 29.

(;U;/ „f I'tLhi, The, 84.

(Darke's Fork River, IGo.

Clarke's Hotel, near the Yosemite
Valley, 4i). (U), 7(1, 71.

Climate— of "I>ike's Peak," Colorado,
22; of Madera, 4"); of Y'o.semitc
Valley, Wl, (i2 ; of San Gabriel,
7!), 80 ; on the Paeific! Coast, ill ;
of Victoria, 97 ; at New West-
minster, 108; at Ashcroft, 117;
west of tl.'' Cascade Mountahis,
117; of Vancouver's THland, 117,
l')!}; of Briti-h Columbia gener-
ally, l.'j:}, 134 ; of Tacoma, l')9,
at Ottorburno, 198; in Southern
Manitoba, 200; of Qu'Appclle
Valley, 227 ; at Swift Cun-ent,
242; at Cal^^ary, 271; in the
South-West, 279 ; of Manitoba
and the North-West, 379 ; in the
Kootenay Lake District, 410.

Olive, IMeysey — starts with party, 1 ;
leaves the party, 1(31; rejoins at
Calgary, 274, 27') ; anotluT sepa-
ration, 297 ; reunion at Winni-
peg, 372 ; illness of, 372, 374 ;
becomes worse, 380 ; death of,
38"), 380; obituary notice of, 391
—304.

"Cloud's Rest," Tlio, Y'oscmite Valley,
51, 54, 58.

Coal Harbour, British Columbia, 119,
123, 1.^)5.

I.sland, 120, 133, 144.

Cochrane Ranche, 2,S0.

Cooke's Hotel, Yosemito Vallev, 51.

Coleman, Mr., 41, 12.

Colonial Hotel, New Westminster, 10.").

Columbia iiiver. The, 101, 103, 104, 1G7.

C'omax, 13S.

('oiil'i)'ffi fiini'inr, Specinu'us of, Gl.

Cordova Bay, 142, 148, 149.

Cork, Irtliiid, 2.

Corn, gaml)ling in, in St. Louis and
Chicago. 10.

I'roduction of — in Kansas, 11 ; in

California, 7'), 85 ; in British
Columbia, 134 ; in the North-
West, 251 ; among the Mennonites,
304 — 309 ; comparison between
different corn lands, 371.

Cornwall, Mr., Lieutenant-Governor
at Victoria, 97, 9,,, 101, 114, 141.

Cornwall, Mr. W., Ashcroft, 102, 112,
149.

Cotton Tree, a magnificent, 20.

Cowichan, 127, 131, 133.

Cox, Mr., 8, 38G.

Crease, I\Ir. Justice, 115, 149.

Cree Indians, The, 213—219.

Crocker, Mr., of San Francisco, 88.

(Jrookstun, 191.

Crowfoot. Indiiiii Chief, 250, 255, 25G.

Crystal City, 317.

i'ark, Colorado, 10 ; description

of, 17, 18.

Ihhnfa, Tlir, 84, 89— 9G.
" Dalks, The," 103.
Davidson, Mr., 345—350.
Davies, Mr., 192, 202.
Dian's Farm, Victoria, 147.
Deer Lodge, 179, 180.
Deloraine, 300.
Denver, 12.

and New Orleans Railroad, 13.

and Rio Grande Railroad, 13, 23,

35.
Departure Bay, 132.
Desford, 309.

DeSmet, Father, 412—110.
Dewdney, Lieut. -Governor, 205, 232.
Do Wintons, their ranche, 277 — 280.
Diarrluea and Cholera Tablets, 375.
Dickinson, 188.

IXDIJX.

427

Columbia, 11!),

44.

Valley, 51.

'stininstcr, 10').
1, Kio, 104,107.

U'llS of, (il.
149.

St. Louis and

Kiinsa.s, 11 ; in
) ; in Uiitish
n the North-
hcMennonitfs,
nson li'tween

niiiit-Govcmor

101, 114. 141.

croft, 102, 1 1'-',

)ent, 20.

;j.

'), 149.
-219.
•ancisco, 88.

2.)0, 25.5, 250.

clc8crii)tion

147.

lilroad, IIJ.
ilroad, 13, 2:5,

If..

or, 205, 232.
, 277—280.
blcts, 375.

I')israiic('(S. Tablo of. 395, 39G.
iJoiiif. Tlif, Vosi'Uiitc N'alli'v, 51, 50.
■' Dominion Day," 135, 13(i.
iJoiiglas, D.tvid". 412.
Fiis, spcrimons of, 50, 01, 105,

107, 119, 127, 129, 142.

, ('iivcrnor Sir Jamr.s, 114.

— — IMoiintaiii, MS.

Driard llon.so Hotel, Victoria, 90, 110,

135, 145, 147.

Edmonton, 270.

Edwards, Mr., Xcw Wt'stmin.stor, lOS.

El (,'apitan, YoMemite Valley, 50, 50.

Eikhorn, 2S9.

Emij^'rants, liints to intcndinir, US,

119, 137, 220, 252—254, 409.
Emorv, Hritish Cidunibia, 111.
En-li'sli Bay. 108, 119 121, 122, 155.
J-^tittf/iri.-'r, 'T/if, 103, 101.
Esquimau, 119.
Eucalyi>tus Groves, planting of, atLcs

.iXnureles, 83.
Eyton, the liev. T. II., 387.

False alann. A, 152.

Far^'o, 191.

Farminfr — in Colorado, 19, 21 ; in Cali-
fornia, 75, S3, 85, 80 ; in liritisli
Columbia. 117, 118, 137 — 140.
151 ; in Dakota, 190, 191, li.3;
in thi> (iu'Appelle district. 207—
210, 220—228; in the Nortli-
West, 252—254 ; in the Soutli-
AVest, 279 ; at Brandon, 298 ; at
I)i loraine, 305 — 310; between
Cartwright and ^Manitoba City,
315 — 320 ; in Soutlitrn ^Manitoba,
323—333 ; near Manitolia City,
334 — 350 ; am(jn>i the Mcnnonites,
3.-,7_3G9: in the Ked Kiver
Valley, 370—379 ; in the Assini-
boine Valley, 381 ; in the Koote-
nav Lake liistrict, 404, 405.

Fcni Dale, 142.

Fire on the Prairie, 299, 300.

FirM, Doiifflas, Specimens of, 50, 01,
105, 107, 119, 127, 129, 142.

Flag Tower, The, Victoria, 141.

"Fbit-h.r.d" Indian Reservc,The, 107.

Flood-Daviu, Mr. N., 232.

Forestry— in Arkansas, 21 ; Ixtween
Salida and Leadvilie, 2() ; on the
Sierra Nevada^, 3S ; on Fresno
Fiats, 48, 41* ; in and around tlie
Yosemite VaUey, 50, 51, 55, 5ti,
5S, 59, 01 ; in Mariposa droves,
(i7_7(); at Burrard's Iidet, 107;
at En-lish Hay, 1 JO -122; at
Saanicb, 142; in the liocky Moun-
tains, ISO.

Fort Calgarv, 270—275

Fort (^I'.Vppell.', 210.

Fra.ser, Mr., 272, 273.

Eraser Kiver, 104, 1(19—111,113,110.

Fresno Flats. Descent to, 48.

(Jrove, The, < 'alit'oniia, 70.

Frozen Sub-soil, 242.

Oaliano Island, 120-

(ialt. Sir Ale.vander. 2(i2.

Gambling in corn, in St. Loui,s and
( 'hicago, 10.

" Garden of The Gods," the, Manitou,
14, 15.

Georgia, Straits of, 103, 104.

(ieraniiim busli. A large, 81.

Girtii'iitic, The, 1.

(I'lrtnuff, Tilt', 140

Glacier Point, view of, 54 ; ascent of,
51—58.

Glendivi>. 188.

(Hen's Farm, 270.

'I'.-v'" ■;tcrsiiire. Fanner from, 132.

(ilyndon, 191.

"Golden Gate," The, at San Fran-
cisco, 42, 90.

Gold Stream, Victoria, 149.

Govenmient Farm, 270.

Grain, iirodiii'tinii of — in Kansas, 11;
in California, 75, H5 : in Hriti.sh
'ilumbia, 131; in the North-
AVest, 251 ; among the Mennon-
ites, 301 — 31)9; comparison bi-
tween dirt'erent corn lands, 371.

Grnudin, Sj)eciniens of, 01.

Granville, British Colmubia, 119, 155.

(hvathed. Mrs., 3HS.

(ireen iiivcr, Passage of, 27.

Greig, ^Major, 199.

Gnv, Juilye, 99.

"(}iiz/ly (iiant," The, 08, 70.

Grohmaii, Baillie, Mr., 134, 152, 105;
Appendix of, 397 — 124.

Gunniston, 27'

428

INDEX.

GwjTi, Hon, Dr., 40, 11, 70, 83, So,

87, 88, 89.
Gwyii, Hon. Mr., jun., 81— 8G.

Half Dome, Tlic, Yosemite Valley,

51, oG, ')8.
Hai-mer, Ur. E., 334— 3.")f).
Harvey, Mr., Yale. lOJ. ll'J.
Hasting.s, Ihntish Columlna, 119.
Hawkins, Lieut. -General Sir J. S., 417.
Headingley, 381.
Helena, 184.

" HeU's Gate," Fraser River, 113.
Hemlock Spruce, Specimens of, 10.'),

107, 119.
Herchmer, Colonel, 232.
Heron, Ki.').

Hewitt, The Hon. Abram. 3, 9.
Hill. C.ipt., 188.

Hope, British Columlna, 111, 115.
Horloek, Rev. Jfr., Yale, 112.
Horrible Spectacles, 259- 2()1.
Horse Plains, Idaho Territor}% IGG.
Hotels in British Columbia, IIG.
Honolidu Indians, 144.
Hughes, Mr., New AVestminster, 102,

105.
Humbold, 37.
Hutdiinson, General, 42.
Hutton, Major, 24 G.

Idaho, The, 14G, 150.
Illinois, State of, 10.
Independence Da\-, 13G, 150.
Indiana, State of, 10.
Indian Burial, 109, 213, 2Co.

Head, 207.

Indians, 109, 213—219, 225, 250, 256

— 2G2, 413, 414, 417. 418.
Inspiration Point, Yosemite Valley,

50, 65.

.laffrav, Mr., 8, 192, 197, 202, 295,

374, 377, 380, 380.
Jones, Mr., of Victoria, 99, 100, 147.
Juan de Fuca, Straits of, 141.

Kahima, 159.

Tvamloops, liritish Columbia, 113, 117.

Kansas, City of, 11.

Kenncdv, Capt., 1.

Kerr, iir., 373, 374, 37G, 385.

Kihlonan, 377, 378.

lOason, David, 3G3.

Kooteiiay Lake, 407—409.

District, account of, 396 — 424.

River, 401 — 107.

Kuper Pass, 103, 104.

Labour — infomiation conccming— in
California, 75, SI, 83 : at Victoria,
101; in British Columbia. 109,118,
129, 137, 138, 140, 150; at Ottcr-
burnc, 198; in Southern Manitoba,
314, 332, 333.

Laiiihtrt'uihd, Specimens of, 48, 19, 51,
5G, Gl.

Land — in Kansas. 1 1 ; between Denver
and Colorado Spiintrs, 13; between
Manitou and I'ueblo, 19; in Colo-
rado generally, 24 ; in Utah, 31 ;
in California, 75, 77, 83 ; at Eur-
rard's Inlet, 107, 138—140; in
and near Victoria, 142, 147 — 149,
151; at Seattle, 158; in Dakota,
190, 191, 193, 195; in Red River
Vallev, 192 ; in Montana, 193; at
Fort Qu'Appelle, 221, 223 ; uithe
North- West generally, 252 — 254,
379 ; at Calgary, 271, 273 ; in the
South-West, 2*79 ; at Deloraine,
30G ; between Cartwriglit and
Manitoba City, 315 — 335; near
Manitoba Citv, 334 — 35G ; in the
Red River Valley, 370, 371, 378,
379 ; comparison as to riclmess
between ditlerent lands, 371 ; near
"Winnipeg, 377, 378.

Langdon. Mr., 247, 248, 2G3.

Langford Lake, Victoria, 149.

La.tciocarpii, Specimens of, 5G.

Lathrop, 45.

Lemon Groves, The, at San Gabriel, 70.

Liquor laws in tlie North-AVest, 246.

Little Bredcnbury, 192, 197.

Little Yosemite Fall, 57.

Little Yosenilte Valley, 56.

Liverpool, 1.

INDEX.

4J9

jia, 113, 117.
385.

39C— 424.

icenung'— 111
; iit Victoria,
)ia. 10".».118,
ill ; at Ottcr-
11 Manitoba,

\ 48, 49, 51,

rt'con Denver

13; between

19 ; in Colo-

n Utali, 31 ;

S3 ; at Eur-

S— 140: in

147-140,

ill Dakota,

Ked Kiver

ma. l'J3 ; at

'223 ; in the

252—254,

173 : in the

Deloraine,

riv'ht and

-335 ; near

5C) ; in the

371, 378,

to ricliness

, 371 ; near

!3.

4'J.

)(i.

tT.'ibricl, 79.
^Vest, 24G.

Live Stock— in British Columbia, 139 ;
in Montana, Dakota, and Wyo-
ming', 193, 194 ; in the North-
West, 240, 252 ; inManicoba, 309 ;
in Southern Manitoba, 311, 329,
330, 341. 342; amoii>,' the Men-
noiiites, 31)0—3(19 ; near \V'iiinipe>r,
380—384 ; in the Koottnay Lake
District, 411, 412.

LivinjTHtone, 270.

Los Aii<reles, 77, 78, 80, 82.

Lower Kootenay Valley, 415.

Lvnch, Dr., 373,

LVnch law, 159. 16G, 184.

Lyons, Admiral, 100.

MahUis, Specimens of, 61.

Macdou^all. Mr., 212.

Mackenzie, Mr., 192, 202.

Madera, 45.

Main Island, 126.

Mundane, 190.

Manitoba City (Manitou), 320.

Manitolm Free Frvsn, Extract from, 391

—394.
Manitou, Southern Colorado, 13, 14.
Manitou (Manitoba), 320.
Manzanita Plant, The, 48.
Maple Creek, 243.
Maple Ridge, Fraser River, 116.
Mariposa Grove, California, 67.
Mariposa lily. The, 48.
Marsh, Mr., 228.

Marshall's Pass, Ascent to, by rail, 25.
Marston Camp, 282.
Martinjf, Calit'omia, 86.
McTavish, Mr., 195, 200.
Mc Vicars, The, 197.
Medicine Hat, 244—246, 285.
Mennonites, A visit to the, 357 — 369.
Merced, California, 84.
Merced River, 50, 52, 59
Mersey, The, 1.
Mirage, the Prairie, 264.
MiiTor Lake, The, Yosemite ^'aUey,

52, 53, 57.
Missoula, 168.
Missouri River, 190.
Mitchell, Arthur, 1, 18, 21, 380—384;

retuiTiinif to England, 386.
Montreal, 387.
Moody, Col., 106.
Moody, Port, 106, 123, 154.

Moodyville, 123, 155.

Moosejaw, 233.

Moosomin, 204.

Mos(iuitues, 236, 237.

Mount Baker, British Columbia, 100,

141, 142.
Mount Powell, 180.
Montana, 1S7.
Motiticoi/i, Specimens of, 61.
Morton Dairy Company, The, 305.
Mormoiiism, 31 — 35.
Morris, 371.
Jlittim; H.M.S., 100, 106, 126.

Nanaimo, 132.

New Cliicago, 174, 175.

New Tacoma, 15S.

New Westminster, 103, 105, 108, 116,

125.
Nevada Fall, Tlie, Yosemite Valley,

53, 54, 56.
New York, 2.
New Tacoma. 159.
Northern Pacific Railway, 158.
Northfield Ranche, 188.
Xort/i I'dcifii', The, 153.
Aoii7«.«, Siiecimons of, 61.

Oakland, 39, 87.

Ohio, State of, 10.

♦•Old Wives' Lakes," 239.

Olympian Range, 94, 141.

Oiiderdonk, Mr., 102, 111.

Orange Groves, The, at San Gabriel,

79 ; at Sierra Madre, 81.
Otter, The, 145, 146.
Otterbume, 192, 197.

Palace Hotel, San Francisco, 39, 84.
Palmer, General, 15.
Passengers (Railway), Notice to, 36.
Pasadena, Los Angeles, 81.
Pasijuah, Indian Chief, 215 — 217.
Pembina, 358.

Crossing, 319.

Pend'oreille Lake, 165.
Pennsylvauia, State of, 9, 10.

430

INDEX.

Picnic in British Columbia, 141.
Pio-Pot, a Croc (thief, 2o'— 2;}7.
Piors Island, !.!(>, i;j;5.
"Pike's Peak," Ascont of, IG ; de-

Hcription of, 21, 22.
Pine Grove House, 170.
J'iniin ArixtiUii, .Specimens of, 20.

Coiitorfo, Spi'cimens of, 20.

lunichiKunii, Speitimens of, 20.

Etliilis, SpaiimeuM of, 20.

Plum Creek, 2!)').

Plumper Pass, 120.

J'oij/itf.sidH, The, ;{87,

rondcromi, SpecimenB of, 20, 48, 49,

51, ,')0, 01, 102, ISO.
J'opitliix I'vi imiiiti, Si)eeimcn8 of, 20.
Portajfe la Prairie, 204.
Port (jJanunon, loS.
Port Hanioud, Fraser Uiver, 110.
Port Moody, 100, 12:i. LVl.
Portland Island, 120, 160, IGO.
PortLiuUow, l')8.
Port Madison, 1").S.
Port Townsend, 1 58.
Powell, Mr., 42.

Power, Herbert, 290, 372, 374, 370.
Prairie ride, A, 299, 300.
Pi'airie sunset. A, 200.
Price's River, Passage of, 27.
Price River Canon, 30.
Prices of I'rovisions — at Calgary, 273 ;

Cartwright, 310 ; in the Kootenay

Lake Distriitt, 405.
Priest's Pass, 1S3.
Prince Albert, Colony of, 251.
Priiicrss Loii'iKC, The, 145.
Provisions, Prices of — at Calgary, 273 ;

Cartwright, 310 ; in the Kootenay

I)istri(tt, 405
Provo, Mormon Settlement, 30.
Pueblo. 19, 20.
Puget Sound, 158.

Quebec, 387.
Quoenstowu, 1.

Railway construction in the North-
West, 208, 209, 281, 282, 284.
Rankin, Mr., M.P., 292.
Red River Valley, The, 370.

Regina, 230—233, 289.

Rhodes, Mr., Yale, 102.

Richardson, 180.

River Fiaser, 104. 109—111, 113, IIG.

River Steamboats in America, 4.

Jtiihirt Jt. riuiiiipsoii, The, 159.

R<j(!kv MounUuus, 12, 17, 180, 181,

203.
Roman Catholic Mission at Fort

Qu'Appolle, 213.
Rose, Mr., 79.
Rosenfeld, 358.
Ross, Mr., 112, 143, 148.
Route, I'lan of, 7, 8.
Royal Corge of Arkau.sas, Passage of,

23.

Saanich, British Columbia, 101, 103,

127.
Salida, 25.

Sftlir, specimens of, 20.
Salmon Canneries in British Columbia,

105.
Salmon, Price of, at New Westminster,

100.
Salt Lake City, 31—35.
Santa Catalina, Isliind of, 82.
Sand Blizzard, A, 103.
Sand Point, 393.

Sand Point, Idaho Territory, 10.5,
San Franeiscro, 39 — 13 ; 84, 87 ; ap-

proacli to from the sea, 90.
San Francisco Agency, 45.
San (iabriel, Los Angeles, 78, 82.
San Juan do Fuca, Island of, 103.
Saskatcliewan River, 247.
Scarth, Mr., 235.
Seattle, 158.
Sentinel Dome, The, Yosemito Valley,

61 ; ascent of, 58, 59.
SeiTOon, A jxculiar, 93.
Settlers, Two, experiences of, 334—350.
Shorb, Hon. J. du Bathe, 77 — 79, 81, 82.
Shuswap Lake, 113, 117, 138.
Sierra Madre Villa, San Gabriel, 79, 80.
Sierra Nevadas, Ascent of, 38.
Silverheights, 384.
Siou.x Indians, The, 225.
Smet, Father de, 412—416.
Smith, Mr. Marcus, 115, 126, 138.
Smitho, Mr,, Prime Minister of British

Columbia, 133, 134, 136, 139, 140.
Somerville Bay, llo.

11,113, 116.

nan, 4.

If)!).

(, 180, 181,

in at Fort

INDEX.

431

Passage of,

a, 101, 103,

ih Columbia,
Vestrainster,

82.

r, 1G.5.
t, 87 ; ap-
90.

8, 82.
)f, 103.

lito Valley,

334—3.56.
-71), 81, 82.
{8.

riol, 79, 80.
38.

6, 138.
of British
1, 139, 140.

Souris Kivcr, 209.

Si)C"ar.i,T!is8. tlus 239, 240.

Spokiuu.' Falls, 1(J4.

Stagi' liouds, American, 185.

Stophfus, Mr., 192.

Stewart uiid (.'anipboli's Cattle Ranchc,
380, 381.

Stewart Islauil, 12(5.

Stewart, -Mr., 3S().

Stikeon llivir, Tlio, 14(5.

St. Juan, Isle oi, 111.

St. Louis. Arrival at, 10.

St. Paul's, 3S7.

Stock, Live — in British Columhiii, 139 ;
in Jlontana, Dakota, and Wyo-
Tuin^f, 193, 191; in the North-
tV^ist, 2 10, 2.')2 ; in Manitoba, 309,
in Southern Manitoba, 311, 329,
330, oil, 312'; amon<,'the^Iennon-
ites, 3()(i— 3(i',) ; near Winnipeg',
380 — ;5Sl ; in the Kootenay Lake
Distri.t, 111, 112.

Straits of Uior^da, lii:!, 101.

Susjieusion Bridire, Llrooklyu, 3.

Snake Itiver, 1(51.

Sun-dauee, A, 2.')8, 259.

Sutton, ;\Ir. , of Cowichan, 13(3.

Sweeney, Mr., 19o.

Sweetlands, 181.

Swift Current, 21 1 .

HwijUuro, II.M.S., 99, 119.

Tacoma, 158.

New, l.")9.

Tatlow, Capt., 97, 147, 152, 153.
Taylor, President John, Interview

with, 33.
Texada, Island of , 104.
"The Point," Yt)somite, 59, GO.
Thirteenth Sidin.i,'. 219.
Thitja f/it/iiHleii, Specimens of, 48,

51, 'g1, 105, 110, 119, 121, 127,

135.
Timber in British Columbia, 129, 13G

— 140, 142.
Tolls between Fresno Flats and the

Yo.semite Valley, 73.
Toronto, 387.
Touchwood Qu'Appello Colonisation

Company, 221—223.
Tree-phmtiag' in the North-West

Territory, 20G.

Turtle Mountains, The, 305.

Tway, Mr.. 14H.

Twui Oak Farm, Victoria, 147.

Union Pacific, Railway, 35.
Unshod horses, 3')5.
Upper Columbia Valley, 409.
Ute Pass, Ascent to, 14.

Vallio, Arkansas, 24.

Vancouver's Island, 103, 138, 153.

Veitch, Mr., 44, 4(5.

Vernal Fall, The, Vosemito Valley, 53,

5(5,
Victoria, British Columbia, 97 — 102,

12(), 134, 141. 148, 151, 157.
Victoria I''ire Bri;,'ade, Etliciency of,

152.
Vinevards, Tlic, at San Gabriel, 79.
Virden, 204, 290, 292.

Wadsworth, 38.

Wages —at Victoria, 101 ; in British
ColumbiaandEastern Canada, 118.

Wakopa, 309.

Wainwrijiht, Mr., of St. Louis, 10.

Wainwright, Mr., of Winnipeg, 195.

Walkem, .Mr. Justice, 97, 98, 102, 149.

Wailula, 103.

Ward, Rev. Mr., 1 14, 149, 151.

Washington Territory, 141, 152, 159.

Wheat, Production of — in Kansas, 11 ;
in California, 75, 85, 134; in the
North -West, 251 ; amimg the
Meiuionites, 3G4 — 3(59 ; com-
parison lietween different wheat-
lands, 371.

Wciglitnian, Mrs., 301.

U'liruKltoHuis, Specimens of, G7.

White' Lake, 30i).

IV. G. Hnitt, The, 131.

Whitfield, Herefordshire, 38G.

Williams, Victor. 192.

Williams, Col., 192, 202, 218, 29G

Wilson, Sir Charles, 417.

432

INDEX.

Winnipeg, 192, 195, 196, 372, 375.
jr. Irviwi, The, 115.
WuoUey," Mr., .'188.
Wonnbridge, Horefordshirt-, 380.
Wrangle, 146.

Yale, British Columbia, 111.
Yellowstone Park, 244.
Yellowstone River, 188.

Yosemito Fall, 61, 57.

Yosemito Turnpike Road Co., 47.

Yosemite, ^'allcy of— the route to, 43,
62 ; rou'o from, 63 ; dcHcription
of, 50— (i4 ; Cost of living in, 63 ;
hotels, (4.

Zorokarriors, Peter, 363.
Zucharis, Abram, 363.

I liii

|;: I

Cabsei.l i COMPA.SY, Limited, Belle aAUVAOB Wobks, Lonuos, E.C.

1^- \

51, 57.

Piko Rond Co., 47,

vy of— tho route to, 43

from (j;j; deHcripUon
. Co8t of living- in, 63 ;

ter, 363.
I, 363.

Xt E.G.

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