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The author enters upon this undertaking with lively hopes of success ; he will not, like most ])revious explorers, 8(>t his foot on shore for a few days or weeks, or, like others, journey among men whose language is nnintelligiblo : but he will again live for two or three years among the Esf|uimntix, and gain their confidence, with the advantage of nndcistand- ing the language, and of making all his wishes known to them. The author cannot close without offering his thanks to the Artists for the beautiful and accurate drawings nuide by tlusni, under his own eye, from his rough sketches ; and to tho Engravers and I'rinters for their constant forbearance in the trouble ho gave them, unaccustomed as ho was to literary labours, yet anxious to obtain the ntmost exact no.«!s in his narrative. C. F. 11. J mm 30, 1804, on board bark MimtictUo, bmnil fir thr, Arctic Ilcgiiiii.i. TON TENTS. INTIUtDIJCTIdX Wn's 1 CIIAl'TKR I, Df.parturc — " Rrsniir." AV/ooMcr— .V/«»i<;,« n/ Cfnn — Oiiljll — ffi'ii -fiifkncss — Fir»l Siijlu of \VJiiilc8 — Wilh'nm Slrrri/ — Ihiukx of SfwfmnuUn ml — Klorw al Siii — " Siil/iliiiy /fiit/omH" — Thf fii-d /ivhrr;/ -T/n' /hnilnh liriij " Mrtriuin- " -/>ni//i mill Itiirial nj Kmllniio — //iilihiil oinl (,'iiilfish — First Mcciiiiij iriUi /■'m/iiiiiiiiii.v — yaliir J'ilntn—A'jihriiiiii'.i J\i)it.t — Miiliilijlit, flan — Arrlnil ni lliilnli'iiihorii ITi rHAPTEll 11. hand and Vml tlie Governor — llricf Ilidimj of Greenland — The Ilolslcinlonj District — Ksqiiimnux innl Enrupi'iia Popiihitiuii—Protictiwi and Care nf the, Siitires hi/ the. Diniinh Crmrn — I'liiiiin'n nf Oireiilinnl — Dinner iil lh<- Gnveriwr'n — M'Cliiitock'x Work — The Priest's Wife — Visit the Gurcriimcul Hiiildinijs — Arrival of the " Rescue " — Lars's Care for his Famihj — Ikniec nil Shore — A Mountain lu'cursion — Action of Prccxing Water in Crcrias — Ksqnimaiir. Awusewints — Schools and Prinliinj UK f'HArTRH III. Visit of Governor Elbcrg to the Ship — Adam Beck — Another Mountain Ascent — The "Woman's lloml" — .1 ij rand Scene — Ball on hoard Ship — Sun's Eclipse — Danr/er to Ship and Hoat in a Gale — Curious Esquinianx Feats — Mishap to the " Georije /frnrii's" Windlass — A slirrine/ Picture — Letters Home — Leave-talinii (i,'» CONTENTS. CHAPTEU IV. Cnissing Davis's Straits — Chanfjiinj Ammirancc and Movements of Icchays — Ikautiful Sunsfts and Mornincf Skies — Refract ion—Muuutu ins '^ hamjimj oil a Th read " — Qod's living A rches — Approach to Land — Fogs — A not/icr Oalc -■- T)cspcratc Parti/ of ruiMwaif Seamen — Horrible Talc of Starvation and Camiibalism— Anchor in .'ioictid-jua Harbour Pago 79 CHArTER V. Visited by tJic Natives — Brief Account of some of them — A very aged Woman — Oo-ki-jox-ii Ni-noo — Vgarng and his thirteen Wives — Ebierbing and Tookoo- llto — Kudlugos Widow, Kok-cr-jah-in — "Blind George" — Excursion on Slwre — Anecdote of the Greenland Dogs — Beautiful Scenery— An Alabaster Cave — Arctic Food — First Taste of lUar-mcut—A Blind Man threading a Needle awl mending Clothes — Astoniihment created by a Magnet — Author's naiTow Escape from Death — Geological Character of the Rocks — Departure for and Arrival at Field Bay — li Cruise in the "Rescue" — Arrival in new Waters 97 CHAPTKK VI. First Visit to Frobishcr Bay — " Mcta Incognita" — Fossils — Koo-jessc and his Family — Old Artarkparu — The beautiful Knh-er-xlun — Skinning Ducks- Esquimaux Food — Native Mode of Sleeping — Innuit Head-ornaments — White Man's (rrare — Esquimaux Grave — Innuit Skill in Geography — Aurora Boreulis — Visited by Numbers of the Natives — taiii Parker in the " True- luvc" — Visit to his Ship — Nikujar the Pilot — First Interciew with the Tnuuits Ehierhiiuj and Tookovlito — Their previous Visit to Enijland and Presentation to Royaltij — Snow-storm — A natural Catisewai/ — Flueliuitimti of the Compass Needle — Tookoolito at Work — She tries to Educate her People —llcr Power to do Good — Advantages of a Mission Colony — ' ' Carl Petersen, ' ' M 'CI intock\i Interpreter — Tookoolito rebuking Sweetrers . . . Page 151 CHAPTER IX. Visit to Esquimaux Village — Fij-st Specimen of domestic Life among the Innuits — Female Tongues good Cleaners — The Angeko's Power — Mysteries of I mm it Worship— Choice of Wives — Curious Guide Poles to Travellers — Charley's Independence of Angeko — Ship Inset in the ice — Sudden Movements of the lee — Frozen in — ^1 Bear-hunt— Visit the Tuple of Ehierhing — Seareily if Innuit Food and Fuel — The Esquimaux Lam]) — Patience and Perseverance of an Innuit Hunter — An Igloo I71) CHAPTER X. Remarkable Echo — Visit of " Sampsc/ii " — Innuit mode of Washing the Face — " Bridge of Sighs" — Mothers nursing their Children — Serviceable Hoods- Tails of Innuit Dresses— Extraordinarily mild Weather — Kelp used for Fowl --Christmas and New Year's Day — Sick Xukerlou — Cruel Abandonment-' Innuit Superstitions — Author's lonely Watch — Koopernrehus Death — Innuit Idea of a Future. State 185 CHAPTER XI. Rough Travelling overland — High Cliffs — Descent of the Sledge mi to the frozen t^ea — Cam}) on the Ice — First Night in an Igloo — Dangerous Travelling — Second Night on the Ice — An icy Beard — Hair-cutting — Fearful Peril— Deep Snow — Treacherous Footing — Arrive at Rogers's Islaiid — Great Thirst — Tnnuit Welcome — A Cup of Water — Night's Rest — Disappearance of the Ice — Remarkable Preserration— Frosthites—Aset viceablcpocket M i rror— Whale-skin ((lien asfood—Innnit Seal -hunting — Starring Condition 'j the Party . 205 m Xlt CONTENTS. CIIAPTKlt MI. W'rititni inulcr Dij/icvltiiv — Xo Fin' iw Lamp — Oiih/ (icn fiirlnv of lihiil: ffkin for Fond — liavcHdiis llumii-r of th'. Dosy Plain — Comparison with Greenland — Lands l/chind the Coast, at this part, eery fei-tile 290 CHAPTEK XVII. .1 sHcecssful Deer-hunt — Se-ko-se-lav Innuits— The Land Pass — Magnificent Scenery — Counters of Warwick Sound — Important Discovery — Relic of Frobisher's Expedition — Sledge-drivr in a Snow-storm — Value of a Compass — Safe Arrival on Board — State if the lee — The Whale DepM — Stranger Innuits aiTive — Two boats of White Men land on the Coast — After-know- ledge of the Truth — Loss of the English Store-ship "Kitli/ " — The Locality of Sekoselar — Tradition of Parry's Voyage — Old Innuits remcmkr visiting him — Sekoselar Innuits dislike civilisation Food — " liarliirnus Sliijl" — Phii^iral Superiority if the Sekoselar Men ;!I2 8)5 1 tilt , 1 A LIST OF THE ILLTJSTKATIONS TO VOL. I. Dmwn hi/ Charles Paiisons, W. S. 1„ ■Ikwktt, H. L. Stkphens, Ohaxvimi; Perkins, and S. Eytinge, ci/fer Sketches hi/ the Author, Photo{/mj)!it, ami from Implements and Clolhiw/ collected among the Esquimaux. 1. 2, 3. 4. 5. (!. 7. S. J), 10. 11. 1'2. 18. 14. 15. 10. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. Chai-t, .showing Autlior'.s Track ami Discoverios . At End of Volumi'. Tookoolito, C!. F. Hall, ami Ebierbiiif; Fruntisinco:. A.sceiit of an Icolici'r; Pcu/c 24 Portrait of Kiullago -2,^ I?urial of Kudlaj^o jjo Kuilla^o'.s Slonument 31 Greenland C'nrrency 45 (ircenland Woman and Child 53 Festival on thi' Birthday of the King of Denmark (iO Dance on Board the Gi'im/e Hcnrii . . 70 Boat-Snnimer.set — Esriuiniau.x Feat 7:5 Bolted Iceberg 31 Gothic Iceberg 1,2 Distorted Moon 34 Last Sight of the Hunaways 90 Iceberg and Kia ()(j Pipe-Sketch— Clark's Harbour \(\^ Stcrry's Tower Ut Frobisher Bay and Grinnell Glacier hk Esquimaux Chart, drawn by Koojcsse 127 Wreck of the Rescue and of the Exiiedition Boat 147 Aurora, Novenilier 23, 180O 150 Aurora, Deccniber 17. 18G0 ir,3 I 1 XVI A LIST ol-" iHK ILI.LSTIi.VTlONS. h'l> I'i'irr 21. Nikiijiir, tliv IJoiit-stctrir aiul I'iltpt l.T.) 25. Hone SUulf^u-rminur 1(>!» ii(). Ik'ar Hunt — Tapping; tlio Jugular 1><1 '27. Esciuinmux Stone Liniiii anil Fire 18:1 2S. P^kkeluvun — Salmon-liait lS-1 2ii. The (feiinif J/ciirii in Winter (Quarters IMi :')ii. Tlie Dyin;,' Ksiininiuu.x — Xukertou 2iii» in. Stonn-liound -Eneanijied on a Floe 2(iU ;(2. Head and Antler.s ol' Aretie Reindeer 218 .!;). Sealing; in tlie Winter •223 ;i4. Harbekark Killinj; Iteindeer 'S-iS oit. The liOSt Found — Frozen Deiid 2rit5 :!•>. I'arhelia, or Slork Sun.s 2til o7. K.S(|uin\au.\ and Seal J)of; 2i>:< :tf<. IJlind (Jeorije and hi» Daughter ... 2Sl ;!!•. lji;h)o.s, or Snow Vilhij^e, at (*n|)uiij;n(\viii!;' 201 -^ 411. Oodioo, or Wonian'ii Knife 2!ir> ■II. Ookijoxy Ninoo Narrating Traditions ;tol LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. INTRODUCTIOX. As this book is to be a work of narrative and adventure, and not one of argument and discussion, I shall touch but very lightly upon those subjects which might lead to the latter, while I endeavour to give as much variety and as much fulness of detail as possible to the former. That argument and discussion may arise from portions of what I advance is very probable ; but, if so, it will be better to enter upon siich in another form than this. Headers very naturally expect to be entertained, as well as, perchance, instructed in what a voyager or travellei puts before them. Long, prosy dissertations are seldom wanted. All that most people require is a truthful report of personal doings in strange lands, and a faithful record of incidents, discoveries, and interesting events connected with them. Such, then, is the task I have taken in hand, with the hope that a ready excuse will be granted for all those imperfections necessarily consequent upon the mode and manner of my carrying on the work in Avhich I was engaged. I pledge myself as to the literal accuracy of what I state, and my readers will be able to see, as they move onward with me through my narrative, how diffici.lt it was — alone, and with no other pair of hands, no other mind, no other thought, sense, or perception but my own — to record, day by day, the occurrences that came under my eye. In addition to this, T had to make all the observations — scientific, geographical, and otheiwise — by myself, and this, VOL. I. B IXTUOnUCTIOK. h I I 1 l. > I ton, with a knowledge solt'-accinivod, and witli nstrumonts so tVw, and most of tlioni so imperfect, till rectified hy myself, that my labours were increased many fold. Thus, in the following pages, let truth, variety of inciilent, and a faithful report of discovery and adventure he alone expected. I^le- gance of style and diction nmst not he sought for. As it will be well to avoid, as much as possible, breaking in upon the thread of my narrative elsewhere, I here give some particulars as to the cause of my embarking on a voyage to the Arctic Seas. It is well known that, for many years past, the whole civilized world has had its interest much attracted toward the polar regions in consequence of the lamentable fate of the Franklin Expedition. The labours of (ireat ]»ritain to discover what had become of her lost children, and the sums of money devoted to that purpose (no less than 2,000,000/. sterling), stand unparalleled in past history. Nor was America behindhand in the generous and humane work. That the missing navigators belonged not to our own beloved land made no difference. The one general feeling was the same with reference to a desire for participating in the search aftin- those who, having perilled themselves in devotion to science and the good of mankind, had become as brothers to ns all. Hence the banner of Columbia — the glorious stars and stripes — iloated to the breeze of an Arctic clime, side by side with England's proud Hag, in the noble errand of humanity, for which a goodly ileet of some twenty vessels had been sent forth ! Of the many bright names already chronicled for their generous deeds in connexion with tho.se arctic exjdora- tions, need I say luat none stand more consjiicuous than that of Henry Grinnell ? "What he and otliers have done is so familiar to all men who know anything of this matter, that I need not recapitulate what has been so often told ; but I cannot let pas.s the mention of that one name here Avithout expressing the warm emotions of my own heart, flenry Grinnell has been to me, as he has shown himself to all who were at work in the Franklin search, a true and noble friend. i<:i.'- jfive I ! i INTKiiDIM'TION. M To him T fcol moro than ordiimiily indobtcd. He not only lu'lpcd ine in my undortaking, but ho has clieorod mo on, and spokoii words of comfort and bright hope when my soul was often nearly overwhelmed. The memory of his generous kindness frequently sustained and helped to invigorate mo anew, when wearied and exhausted in the wild regions I have lately been exploring, ivlay every blessing, therefore, attend him and his, is my earnest and grateful prayer. As to the search for Fianklin and his brave comrades, who has not heard of its fruitless result ? Money and means expended without success ! Large shii)s and small ships, in magnificent expeditions, sent out vainly as to the recovery of those lost ! True, some discoveries were made, and certain relics and information brought to England by Dr. Rae in 18r)4, which gave a clue as to where the missing navigators could have been found ; but not until Captain ^I'Clintock, of the Piritish Navy, in ihe spring of ±850, visited Boothia and King William's Land, was anything for certain known. Then, at last, we were positively assured of the locality where these martyrs to science had been, when, as a discovered document proved, the ships were abandoned, and the majority of the crews had taken to the shore. This occurred in April, 1848, and 105 men, as we are told, under tiommand of Captains Crozior and Fitzjames, landed at a given spot, with a view of making their escape, if possible, toward their native home. What became of them, except two skeletons found in a boat, and one other near the beach, has not yet been known. Supposition alone has induced the world to believe them all dead ; and, despite proof upon proof, from facts, experience, and sound logical reasoning to the contrary, the Government of England, and British naval officials, with some eminent exceptions, have discarded all idea of farther search, though the truth could now so easily be obtained, and the ground to explore so small and comparatively so easy of access ! I will not trouble the reader now with my reasons for making these statements, based, as they are, upon some years of careful study and examination of all that has been said 1(2 '. ' IXTKonrCTKiX. » f <:l I ' I'. J ,1 1 ; M and written ujton the sulijcct. T-ct mo licrc hiictly niontinn why I niysL'lt', with ni» pivviouscxiicricnct', and no [mist liistoiy of my own to lielp mi", took it up as I have ilono. In inui word, then, it Hocnind to mo ns if I had been ccdkd, if I may .so speak, to try and do the wnrk. My heart felt sore at tlut thouj^iit of so yreat a mystery in connexion with any of our fellow-creatures, — especially akin to ourselves, — yet remaining unsolved. Why could not their true fate be ascertained ? Why should not atti^mpts be made, aj^ain and again, until the whole facts were jiroperly known? Captain (now Sir F. L.) ^I'Clintock, in 18.") 7-!), had gone forth once more to seek fur sonu; elucidation of this mystery, but still I felt that something more might yet be attempted toward co- operating with that brave ollicer. It was alreiuly known that his vessel, th(; Fox, had been caught in the ice and delayed a whole year. It was ])ussible that she might still not be able to g(!t through to her destination, and therefore I fancied the work could be more elTectiudly done by an independent expedition proceeding in some other direction, afterward to join with M'Clintock, if need be, in his task. Accordingly, I conceived an idea that i)erhai)s the I'ritish Government would lend, for a new American expedition, the arctic ship BcnalKfe, which, having been abandoned in the ice. had diifted out, and was picked up in 1855 by Captain dames lUidingtun, of New London, who brought her to the States, where she was completely refitted at our national expense, and returned as a generous gift, in amity and good will, to England, i I liad heard that she was afterward dismantled, and laid up as a hulk in the Iliver !Medway, and I thought it possible she might now be loaned to us for another attempt to be made under the American flag. A printed petition to the British authorities was gotten up and signed by S. P. Chase (then Governor of Ohio), U. S. Senator George I'ugh, and Mayor Bishop, of Cincinnati ; but, before other names were attached to send it to England, M'Clintock returned with news of what he had discovered. What this was the civilized world is well acquainted with, He had obtained a few facts, but still left I IXTKoDrcridN. tin' iimttcr very iiiystorious ! That it cotiltl linvf Ix'Oii olhor- Avis(! was almost iinpossilfk! by such a huniftl and cursory Kxaiiiiiiiitioii of the grouucl as he made in s[)rinj;, wheu the laud is clothed in ils winter's dress. Nor could he olitain nnich knowledj;c ot the truth by a tew casual interviews with detached parties of Ksfpiiniaux, tlirou;;h an interpreter who he himself says, " did not well understand iheni." No ; neither ^I'Clintock nor any other civilized jierson has yet been able to ascertain the facts. JJut, thouj^h no n'n'li:r(f persons knew the truth, it was clear to nui that the Ksquiniaux were aware of it, only it reiiuircid ])eeuliar tad and much time to induce them to mak(! it known. Moreover, I felt convinced that survivors might yet bo found ; and again I said to my.self, Since England has abandoned the field (1 did not then know there wen; any fresh elVorts in that country to renew the search), let iiir, an humble citizen of the United States, try to give to the Stars and Striju's the glory of still continuing it, and ])erchanco succeed in accomplishing the work. Accordingly, after mature considerati/' Sir Jnhn Fniii/.'/in'.s men arc yet to bcfiinnd /iriiii/ with fhr h'niptiiiinK.i; <(iul that f/ic;/ should he rcMHCil oiul rrsfonti to their vonntri/ and J'riemh, I lu-reby cheerrully oiler my services, and volunteer as a member of the expedition you propose to organize. "For direct evidence oi' ine, and luy dovotedness to this cause, I would refer } ou to the written works of him whoso meuKjry and name I almost worship — Dr. Kane." This conlirmation of my views wn.s exceedingly gratifying, but 1 had one sent to me which still more stamped upon my mind the truth of what I had surmised in respect to the Franklin Expedition. It was from Henry Griunell, Esq., of New York, and will be introduced farther on. Aftc!r laying my plans before friends at Cincinnati, T at once started ibr the Eastern States, with a view of consulting men of experience in the arctic whale fishery, and also calling upon other persons to whom 1 had letters of introduction. I stopped one day at Philadelphia, and visited Dr. Hayes, Mr. Itobert Kane, Mr. CJeorge Childs, and a few more ; then proceeded on to New York, where I was hospitably welcomed l»y Mr. (irinni'll, who entered warmly into my views. On the 14th of F^ebruary 1 went to New London, where I had an opportunity of meeting many experienciid whaling captains, among whom was Captain S. A. Brown, who was very warm and kind in reference to m\' plans. Captain Christopher Chappel, who had passed, a winter in Northum- berland Inlet, likewise gave me yri a,t hope and encourage- 8 INTKODUCriOX. t i< I H. ■ I mont. So (lid Mv. Thomas W. Perkins, who allowed mo access to the logs of various voyages made in the arctic regions l»y vessels belonging to the late firm of Perkins and .Smitli. But to ^lessrs, A\'illianis and Haven, njton whom I called when at New London, I am especially indebted. In every possiltle way tluy tried to help me as to my plans ; and they most liberally tendered me the well-known schooner Rc. .nplishnient of the noble object you have in view, and I will cheerfully contribute toward the requisite funds to carry it out, " "With groat regard, I am your friend, " Hexuy Gkixnell." Shortly afterwards, ^Messrs. Williams and Haven, of New London, sent me the following most kind and generous proposal : "As a testimony of our personal regard, and the interest we feel in the proposed expedition, we will convey it and its veij^ui'' a outfits, boats, sledges, provisions, etc. free of cliargc, in the barque Gco)ye Ucnrtj, t(5 Xorthumberland Inlet, and whenever desired, we will give the same free passage home in any of our ships." This generous offer relieved my uiind of a great difficulty, and most gratefully I accepted their kind proposition. ITa*ving thus far succeeded in opening the way, I now gave directions ft)r a suitable boat to be built. !Mr. G.W. Eogers, of New London, who had built the boats for the expeditions under De ILiven, Cane, and ITartstene, was commissioned to build mine. Its dimensions were as follows : length, 28 feet ; beam, 7 feet ; depth, 29^ inches ; and thickness of her planking, which was of cedar, seven-eighths of an inch. In form .she was similar to a whale-boat, drawing only eight inches of water when loaded with stores and a crew of six persons. She had one mast, on Avhich a jib and main- sail could be carried ; a heavy awning to shelter the crew at night or when at rest ; and the lockers for stores at each end were sufficiently large that a man could, if need be, comfortably sleep in either of them. Fivi! oars, and all other essentials, formed a portion of her equipment. The sledge I took was j9^^ I. ' !!|- J; rl I li •fi i ^ t / i ! 12 IXTltODl'CTION'. niado under mj own eye in Cincinnati, as also a stock of pennnican. I now returnod to tlie West for the purpose of settling my all'airs and preparing for departure. The press gave a friendly notice of my intentions; and a circular was issued l»y ^Mayor ]]ishop and ^Miles Greenwood, inviting my fellow-citizens to meet me at the Burnet House. This meeting took place on the 2Gth of April, and I was much gratified with its auspicious character. Soon after this (on ^lay 10th), I hade adieu to my home and friends — to all of human ties that I held dearest to my heart, and departed for Xew York. Here I devoted the remaining time to various mtitters connected with my departure, constantly receiving advice and assistance from jVFr. Clrinnell. Finally, on Saturday evening. May 2Gth, I left for Xew Duidon to join the Geurye Henr//. The funds for my expedition were, however, so low, that I found myself sadly deficient in many things that were almost ahsolutely neceosary. But, at the last moment, when this was known to Mr. (Trinnell, he unhesitatingly supplied the deficiency. On arriving at New London, I received many kind invita- tions from numerous friends 1 encountered there. Among others, I cannot forbear alluding to a dinner given the day before my final departm-e by Mr. Haven (of the house of Williams and Haven), avIio, with his amiable family, extended every hospitality toward me. On the occasion to which J refer, the viiinds were plentiful and good ; but Mrs. Haven uttei'ed some graceful remark, wishing there had been longer time to have made a more abundant and richer displ.ay to welcome uie ; whereujion one of her youngest sons, a little lad, very intelligently said, " H(! guessed that where I was going to I VI ifjht see the day when I shoidd be glad to get as good!" Since then, how often and often have I called to mind that entertainuKint and young ^Master Haven's words, especially when obliged to eat scra])s of raw walrus' hide, whale-skin, the C(nitents of walrus and reindeer jiaTinches, etc. and sometimes not able to get even that much to try and I IXTHODUCTION. 13 satisfy iny craving hiinger ! Froquoutly liave I sat down and thour>lit of my dinner at ^Ir. Haven's, vainly wishing that I could yet if it were only the very poorest fragments of that Monday's feast. On the 29th of ]\ray, accompanied hy 'Sh: Grinnell and several citizens of Xew London, among whom was ]\rayor Harris, I stepped from the wharf, amid a crowd of friendly spectators, and entered the Lout that was to convey me on board. A few sti'okes of the oars, however, had oidy been made, when we returned at the voice of jNfr. Haven liailing us. It was to give me a present, in the shape of a little book called "The Daily Food," which, though small in size, was great in its real value, and which proved my solace and good companion in many a solitary and weary hour. Once more bidding adieu to all on shore, the boat swiftly carried me to the ship, where preparation was being made for departure. In a few moments more the steam-tng was alongside, and we wore towed out to sea. Then came the final moment of parting. The last farewell had to be uttered — the one word that was to sever me for many months, per- haps years, from my country, my home, my friends ! Xever shall I forget the emotions 1 experienced when the noble Orinnell came to take my hand and say, " Good-bye ! God bless you !" Hardly could I res])ond to his kinil and earnest expressions toward nie and on my behalf "With warm but trembling utt .'ranee, this truly great and good man spoke of the brave old navigators, and those of our own times, who had often dared the perils of unknown seas, relying on their own stout hearts, it is true, but depending more on the aid and support of a Supremk Powek. He bade me ever do the same ; and, connnending me to that Mujiity Being, he once more, with moistened eye, said, " Farewell ! " and hastily embarked on the tug that was to convey the visitors on shoi'e. The last link binding me to my own dear native land was now severed. The steamer cast off as we were passing ^Montank Point, and then there arose one deafening shout from those on board, when three loud cheers were given for t i u INTliODUCTIOX. the name of Henry Crrinnell ; and, as the echoes floated on the air, our good ship, now under sail, bore me rapidly away. Thus I left my country to try and accomplish that object upon Avhich I had set my heart — namely, the solving of the yet imscttled mystery connected with the LOST Franklin EXPKDITIOX. I muy as well say Ih'Vp tluit, tliningliout my iiarrativo, all reforencps to tlio ApiH'iulix will be noted by small iiumenils, iiulieatiiif; the explanatory notes. H h'h T. i fit IK i RAN KLIN CHAPTER L Departure — " flcficiin" Schaoner — Names of Crnr— Outfit — Si'd-slrhirfin — First Siij/it of Wlin/ci — William Stirrii—flaids of Ncvfoundlaiul— Storm at Sea —"...'/ihur /iottoms"—The fimt Icihrra—Thc Danish Ilritj " Mariano " — Death and liurinl of Ki'illano — Ifa/ibitt anil Codfish — First Meeting with Esquimaux — Natirc Pilots— Ejthraim's Pants — Midnight Sun — Arrival at Ifolstcinborff. Ft was on Tuesd.ay, 'Mny 2Uth, 18(30, that I departed from New Loiuloii, Comi., on my voyag(^ in the barque Gron/e irenri/. We were accoi- \aiiied by a tender, the Amarct scliooner, formerly the far-tamed " Rcscitc " of arctic celebrity — a name that I intend to retain in speaking of her throngh- out my narrative. The officers and crews of these two vessels nnmbered in all twenty-nine persons ; my expedition consisted of Kudlago and myself, thus making a total of thirty-one soids leaving New London. As I shall have frequent occasion to mention some of the ship's company by name, I here give a list of them and their rati no- on board. List of Officers and Crew. S. O. Biulinstoii . . Cnptnin. Frank lioj^cis ... 1st OIKcor. A. .T. Oavdiiicr ... 2(1 „ Ki'uhoii Lainl> ... 8(1 ,, Holicrt Sniitli . . . .4th „ C. Kci'iiry .... ]5()iit-stcoi'cr. E. W. Morgan ... ,, A. Bailey .... W. F. Roberts ... W.lJ.Sterry . RlaeksniithandConper. ■T. 1?. H\ulsoii . . . Steward. fiiMj. Bcekwitli . . . Seaniaii. R. A. C'oinstdik . . ,, H. Smitli , A. S. Bradley J. B. Neil . . ,T. Buekley . S. AVillson . W. B. Rnssell ,T. (!ray . . \V. St<.",kes . y. Conley . W. Ellani . . M. Silva . . W. Johns(ni . .T. Brnee . . J. Antonio F. Silva . . .1. Brown . . Seamnn. ■I' Ill 1 ' I : !l , I ;■ I I ; f '' k; I.Il''K WITH TlIK l«(jLIM.\rX. ^Fy nntlit for tliis voyage* fuinly work I coidd at that time perform. Writing on the fifth day out, 1 find myself saying, " ^fore miserable days than these past few have been to me it would be diiiicult to imagine. And why? Because of sickness — sea sickiu\ss. And what is sea-sickness ? Can any one t(ill unless they have ex])erieiiced it? 1 imagine not ; nor, perhaps, can many describe it who have come under its infliction. I know that / can not well do so. I have felt myself swung, tumbled, jammed, knocked, struck, rocked, * For part' oilars, see Appendix, No. 2. !ti : r SKA-SICKNESS. 17 ', (if my IS. 15()nl<'irs 1. prcsci'vcil [• Imll, sliot, itni tittilij^s, fto. for JHO- 10 tin-wiiro, ■s; wi'iii'iiij; iiiul jouniiil mull sc.xtulit 111 iiicvcniy ; 3 oi'diiiiiry S 1111(1 SL'Vl'llll IDirary. :he mciUirt aking my omplisheil a, let the y it would >xcitemciit more and luced that tisos. Thi.s a-sickiiess departure, ullowinj;' uld at that ud my. self )(H'U to me Jeeause of Can any e not ; nor, under its have felt ;k, rocked, turned, skcnved, slewed, war[)ed, pitched forward and backward, tos.sed lip and down, d(jwn and uji, this way and that way, round and round, crossways and kit-a-cornered, in every possible manner. On the ocean, fresh from civiHzcd life, this m.ay be called seci-sicJiui's-i, but elsewhere I should term it next to a torturous death ! No more terrilde experience can a man have of life upim the broad waters than his first few days at sea when thus attacked." Again, at a later date 1 find, " A miserable time I have had of it — ill nearly since we left ; and now, as I write, my head is like a mountain of solid rock. Sea-sickness is really too l)ad, especially after eating, or trying to eat, a good dinner." An ancient philosopher, on reviewing his Avork at the end of each day, and rinding no special good acquired or accom- plished, used to write down in his diary, "Pcrdidi cUrm," — I have lost a day. Alas for me, I had to repeat that in my journal for twelve days ! It is true that several times I recorded the temiierature of the air and sea, the state of the ■ barometer, and made various other observations whenever the weather woidd permit, but, nevertheless, so powerless did I feel for mental or bodily work, that at the end of each day I felt compelled to enter down as a sad but truthful fact, " Pmlidi diem." At length I quite recovered, and on the 9th of June, for the first time since leaving port, I felt as a man I shoidd feel, once more strong and capable of any exertion. I T soon began to classify my labours, devoting so many hours to reading, to study, to writing, exercise, reflection, and sleep. As my buoyancy of spirits arose, and I watched the good ship : bounding on her way over the sparkling waters, everything j^ seemed full of life and animation. The Giver of all good t| was supreme upon the blue ocean as He was upon the .shore. Even the "Mother Carey's chickens" — the little stormy i petrels — sportively played al)out, no doubt happy in their I way, as they danced up and down, sliglitly dipping the tips I of their wings in the uneven waves, and then hieing away to I absent mates, that tiicy might be brought to greet the passing I ship. ?, VOL. 11. c ik r I '. >' 18 AUcTir liKSEAiicn F.xrr.iHTioN. I I Aliout ii week iil'tcr our (Icpuitiiiv, the cry was raised, " T\w\v. .sill' LIdws : llicrc she Mows ! " and, liiuryinj; on dock, I lor tlio Jii.4 time saw at a distaiicc tlio Mowing' of wlialcs. "NVliut this " Mowinj,'" was like may lie discribcd by asking' if the roiider has ever seen the smoke i)rodueed by the fnuii*,' of ;ui ohl-fasIiioiie(l iliiit h)ck '. If so, then he may iniderstand tlie apix'anuiee of the h/ai" of a -whale — a Hash in the iian, and all is over. I watched with eayer interest this .sehoid of "fin-backs," numbering some twenty-live or thirty whales — a rare si^ht to see so many together. Ihit they are not generally attaekeil, as tlu'y aw dillienlt to capture, and yitdd but little oil. A day or two after this, a cry of " Torpoises !" brought all hands on deck ; and here a circumstance occurred, which, though trivial in itself, well serves to illustrate the unartilicial character of one of the ship's company, the "William Sterry prc;- viou.sly mentioned. ]t is related in my journal as fullows : — " Directly the porpoi.scs were seen, Sterry, who has a genial heart and strong arm, took his ])osition by the martingale, or, as a Dane wiuild call it, ' Dolphin Striker,' which is under tiie bowsprit. Harpoon in hand, there stood Sterry, prepared for ii whale or aught else, ready for his blow. Now Stctri/ was Sfrri'i/ — St(!rry the coo])er — Sterry the .ship's carpenter — Sterry the shiiVs blacksmith — Sterry the millwright — Sterry the genius — the immortal Sti-rry, who could eat more ])ork and beans, and drink more whiskey out of a two-quart pantry pitcher, without distinguishing its smell and taste from that of pure cold water, than any other fiaitleman hailing from his native plact! of th-oton. Thnr indeed M'as Sterry, seemingly hanging between the heavens and the sea, his feet tlangling on a tow line, and his hands grasping the martingale back-rope. While I stood watching him, his eyes appeared to roll in fire as they pierced the blue di-ep, especially so when lie struck his head again.st the 'bobstay-chaius' in turning to look for the con- trast between the porpoises beneath him and the Jibbooin above. And here I may add that Sterry was a great philo- sopher on 'contrasts,' 2^1 os and con ft ; iwsitucs and nerjatwcH '": , / MOVEMMNTS OF TWO WlfALKS. 10 US I'iii.sod, r on deck, )t' wliiiU's. • iiskiiig it' .0 firing ol' iiuk'V.stiiiul (i ])iin, imd scknol of • ^vllak's — y nve not lUid yicltl ji'ouglit all 0(1, wliii'li, uimvtiliciiil Stc'vvy prtv follows : — las a genial ■tin«fali', or, ^ under ti.'O j)an^d for 'i was Stem/ -Stony tlio tlio goniiiR and boaus, vy i»itclior, lat of pure liis native ;ly hanginu' ig on a tow pe. While fire as tlioy !k his iioad or the con- w. jibl)ooni >Teat pliilo- id ncfjntircn were with liim the only ' hanimals that liavo souls worth saving.' Well, there stood Storry preparing to ' pucker,' and piK'/iCi' he did. A strange sound, which arrested my attention, stole out of his mouth. Startled, I listonetl attentively, and found him actually vhisf/iui) for the porpoiars / But no porpoise seemed to listen t(j his charm. Often did he poise his harpoon as his intended victim glided swiltly through the M'ators beneath him, but as often did he have to drop it again. At length the porpoises retired, and Sterry had to give up his game. " When the attempt was over, I asked Captain B if Sterry's whistling really did any good, and the reply was, as 1 expected, ' No, none whatever.' Sterry at the time was witliin hearing, and immediately said, ' I guess-it-didn't-do- much-of-any-harm-any-how-eaptain ; ' and then, turning to me, added, ' Captain Hall ' (so he always called me), ' I tell you what it is, Befon; you have been up North a great while, you'll find you've got to whistle as many whistles as there are sjiecies of //animals, bird.s, and fishes, or you can never get along up there ; you can never capture such things unless you do wh'stle.' " ' But,' said I, ' please to tell me, Mr. Sterry, what do you do when you see a ichalc ?' ' Oh, then we always holler,' was his quaint reply." 1 have mentioned this anecdote as chai'acteristic of the man. He was frequently the life and soul of our party, and often I shall have occasion to allude to him. On the 12th of June we passed through a fleet of codfishing .schooners on the Banks of Newfoundland. Hundreds of boats were out, with a man in each, rapidly appearing and disap- pearing to oxir view as the fog, which was very thick, lifted, or as we nearod them. The next day preparation was made, and a close look-out kept for icebergs, the thermometer having fallen rapidly ; but none were seen. Two whales, however, caused some interest in our vessel, and especially to myself. They were moving leisurely along in the same direction as the ship, and nearly c 2 I I' '4t ' S : I "h ' 20 Aiit'Tic I!i;si;ai!(1i i;xri;uiTioN. iimlci' till' l)n\vs. l'".\i'i\ tliirty .'ciduils (ir so they ciiiiic \\\\ lo Mow, iiiid tlicii Slink liciicatli llic WiidT, IcaviiiL,' tnily ii I'uw reel iiliuM' tliiir liaclvs. I saw tln-iii ilistiiictly I'or scvcnil minutes, witliipiil cessation, tlnis ]iroiiellin,n their vast luilk tlii'oujili llio yival tleep. It was u most novel sij;iit to met to (■■ec! these two whales simultaneously j^lidiuj; side hy side, uiul even with the ,-.ln|i. Had they liei'U a pair of naiads hiiniessed to the cai' ol' Xeplune, they could not have lii'eu niovo iniil'nrni in their movements. They eame up togetliei', "blowod" toj;ethel", and deseendeil toL;ether. ^Meantime two lioats were lowi'icd, with a chosen crew, to give chase. Swiftly they shot tdvvaid theif pi'ey ; but tho whales immeiliately altered their ciairse, the boats fojlowinj,' after them. For an liour was the chase continuetl ; but, in spite of all ellorts, the whales escaped, and our disappointed comrades returned. For several days after this, nothin;^ of note occurred worth niirrating. A di'licati; snowitird lij;hted on the ri^'^in;^-, and, according; to nautical ideas, was the augury of j^ood luck. Other marine l)irds and porjioises were seen, but there was little to relieve the monotony of our life except when the winds increasetl to a gale. Then, indeed, I fouiul a change that in one respect 1 c(udd admire. To myself, w'.o had never licfore lieen npon the vast ocean, it was truly magnili- c 'nt to behold the mighty workings of the great deep ! On one occasion, which I well remendjer, the sea ai)]iearoil in " white caps," the bounding billows playing with us all day in fantastic gandnds, Avhile the shi]) plunged fearfully down into a deep abyss; then, like a thing of life, wouhl she leaM sky- ward, as a mad wave struck the bow in all its fury, bin ying it beneath the sheet of spray, which Hew fiir and wide in its im- potent wrath. But the Grorf/r Ilrnri/ heeded it not. Like a lion shaking the dews of heavi'ii IVom his mane, so did our good ship a[)pear, bathed in crystal diops, but still driving on ind on majestically. Earely did I enjoy my.self more than when those storms encountered us. It seemed to me as if no .est extent, appreciate the beauty, the one could, to the SI J, I'll 11! huTTo.M.S 21 caiai' lip Id only a I'l'W fur several vast Imlk lit to UK! to ly side, and rt liami'.Hsi'd (vc uuiriaiii "blnwod" ;i'll ercw, to y ; l)ut the Is tbllowiiij,' cd ; hut, ill isappointed luied ^vol•tll ■if;-^iii^', and, ;^(j()d luck. it then' was •)t when tho id a change f, w'.o liad Illy inagnitl- ilfcp ! On apjicaivd ill IS all day in y down into 10 IcaM sky- y, huiying it Ic in its iin- lot. Like a , BO did oui" 1 tlriving on ] more than me as if no beauty, the i grandeur, the gveritiiess ol' (lod's crentiMii Imt in expeiieiiciiig II storm at sea. Wutcliing it as I did, inaly \vedgf(l ngainst tli(! mast, with my arm eiuiivling a ciiister of ropes, I ciaild keep my place, notwithstanding tlie vessel nnw and then would he on lier heam-eiids, or some t'earl'iil wave, nveileaping the liulwai'ks, seel< to take me away. And lis J stood there, 1 could study Natuii! and Nature's (loil. As far as the cyo could carry me, say for si'Veii miles in every direction, making nil area of over one luir.dreil and (illy s(piari! miles, the ocean was dancing as if wild with juy. One nioiiienl it wcaild seem as if a universal efliirt was being made by the waters to kiss the clcauls ; in llu' next, diving low, low down, as if to hidi! their laugh over the daring deed ; then, as if to signify thi'ir unwillingness of my being so conl a spectator, the ship would bo borne high uji in their Kiiowy arms, and all at once l)liinged (piickly down into the Inisom of the sea, covering myself and the decks with tons of briny water. On the I'.Uh of -lune we were in hit. ol"^ IS' X. long. 41)° 12' AV. and here 1 give a few extracts from my diary to show my ideas and feelings at the time. "This day saw several of the largest-si/ed whales, Jiti/iimi Phi/.M(li.<, though this term api)lies lo the whale family in general ; but, being a very dillicult kind to cap- ture, whalers seldom venture in their chase. J.ess ([uiet and tiaiKpiil ill its movements than the ^U//^//' O's, or (In'Cinland whale, it becomes furious when wounded, and remlers an approach to it dangerous. Its flight, when struck by the harpoon, is exceedingly rapid, aiul is so long sustained that it is very dilticult — generally impossilde — to tire it out. The game is not worth the cost and risk, for the blubber and bone of the PhjiHiiliA are iudilTerent in quality and qiiantity. 1 had a fine view of these monsters of the deep, as they came within pistol-shot of the vessid. It was a grand sight to me to see a fi.sh (is a whale a fish?) 1(10 feet long ])ropellii'g itself quietly forward through the water as though it were but an humble mountain trout. ''1 III It i I . •"^' M ' S ' 1 i ( 1 !' i 22 AUCTIO KESEAECII EXrEDITIUN. " June 20th, lat. 53' 9', long. 51° 1(3'.— A good run, with a fiiir breeze since yesterday. A])proacliing tlie north axis of the earth ! Ay, nearing the goal of my fondest wishes. Eveiy thing relating to the arctic zone is deeply interesting to nie. I love the snows, the ices, icebergs, the fauna, and the llora of the North ! 1 love the circling sun, the long day, ihc arctic nifjht, v;]uii the soul can comviunc with God in silent and reverential awe ! I am on a mission of love. I feel to be in the performance of a duty I owe to mankind — myself — God ! Thus feeling, I am strong at heart, full of faitli, ready to do or die in the cause I have espoused. " This evening the sun set about ten minutes to nine o'clock, but it was quite light at ten o'clock. " Thursdai/, June 21st. — This morning, a few minutes after eight o'clock, I went upon deck to take my usual exercise. I noticed or felt a perceptible change in the temperature of the air. 1 looked at the thermometer and saw that it was falling. I tried the sea-water, and found that nmch colder also, being only two degrees above freezing point. I innne- diately concluded that we were near icebergs, and mentioned it to Captain B , also to Sterry ; but, though the latter had been on several voyages to the arctic regions, and had spent four winters there, he doubted my ideas about it, especially when I ventured to predict we should see them within three hours. He said ' we should not,' and even laid a wager upon it ; but at twelve o'clock the icebergs were really seen, and many of the old salts on board at once set me down as well up in arctic knowleilge. " Directly the announcement was made T went on deck, and there, far away to the west, had my first view of an ice- berg. By the aid of a good glass, presented by iM'Allister and Brothers, of Pluladelphia, the grandeur of this icy mountain of the deep was brought before me. Brief, however, was the glance I had. The motion of the vessel was sucli that 1 could not at first keep the iceberg within the field of the glass. But perhaps it was well I did not see all its splendor and magin- ficence at once. For years I had longed to see an iceberg, and, f ASCHNT OP AN ICKlJiaUi. 23 un, -with jvth axis t wishes, iterestiug luna, and long day, ill silent I feel to -myself — itli, ready s to nine lilies after I exereise. (eratiire of iiat it was ich colder 1 iiniuo- ueiitioned the latter I, and had about it, see them even laid )ergs were t once set ; on deck, of an ice- llister and mountain 3r, was the lat I could glass. But md mag'ji- cberg, and, 4 oven in tlie distant view I then had, all my conceptions of its grandeur were more than realized. When first seen it was jxu'liaps ten miles off, and ai)peared about 130 feet high, judging from a calculation made. As, toward evening, we approached, it appeared a mountain of alabaster resting calmly upon the l)Osom of the dark blue sea. Ueliind it was the setting sun just dipping its nether limb in the waters, while its upper reached some thicl'C, heavy clouds extending half around tlie horizon, bathing them in a Hood of crimson ! Close by, and pt;ering out from a break in the sky, were Venus and the new moon, making a scene of sublimity and beauty fit for a poet's pen or the pencil of an artist. Xot before ten o'clock P.M. were we alongside this magnificent pile of ice, and then, as it were, I had an opportunity of shaking hands with the iiist iceberg I had ever seen. It is said that lovers like dark- ness 1 tetter tlian liglit, and the hour named would seem to indicate that darkness was upon the face of the deep when I and my ' idol ' met. But not so ; light abounded : not that of noonday, but that of early eve, when the sun had withdrawn his glowing face. Then it was we met. Iceberg was silent ; I too was silent. I stood in the presence of God's work ! Its fasliioning was that of the Great Architect ! He who hatli Imilded such monuments, and cast them forth upon the waters of the sea, is God, and there can be none other ! " After this, numerous icebergs Avere seen, one of which we [tassed within a stone's throw. At a distance it had appeared of a pyranudal form, but on coming close its outline wholly changed. This I find to be a characteristic of almost all views — of none more strikingly so than that of an iceberg. " Dis- tance lends enchantment to the view," so goes the old saw, and, to a certain extent, this is true. But, on another occasion, I had a more minute inspection of one of these icy monsters of the deep. A large solitary berg at one time was not far from us, and, as the weather permitted, a l)oat was sent in charge of the mate that I might have the opportunity of examining it. .On arriving near, it was found of irregular form at the base, 24 AUCTKJ HESKAlU'll KXPEDITION. f with several " tongues " or spreading pieces below the water. Witli some dlHiculty 1 got on to it at a sloping ])art, and began to mount toward the suniniit. Several piimacles, ravines, gorges, and deep cavities were displayed as I ascended ; but decay was already making rapid progress, and evidentl}' not long woulil elapse before the whole mass must fall to pieces. I succeeded, however, in reaching the to]) without danger, using a boat-hook as a sort of alpenstock to aid inc. i^ I :i m AHCtNT Of AN i(i:iii:ii(i, Here resting awhile, and drinking in the ocean scene around, with our ship on the Idue waters awaiting us, I then descended. On the way down I unfortunately trod on the rusty part of the boat-hook, and having my boots off for surer footing, received a rather bad wound, which confined me to a couch for some days. Our progress towards Greenland was so tantalizingly .slow, owing to calms and head Avinds, tliat a fourth Sunday passed over us while still at a considerable distance from Holstein- borg, Greenland, the port of rendezvous of the Gcm^yc Henry and Jit'snie. Of these Sundays at sea it gives me pleasure to speak in Till'; DANISH JiMd "MARIANK." 25 the water, part, and piunaclos, aycd as I icfress, and mass must ig the to]) )eiisti)ck to coan scene \\s, I then rusty part rcr footing, to a couch ingly slow, iday passed n Holstein- ■oryc Henry to speak in favoiirable terms as to their observanci' on l)oard. The crew exhibited most excelhMit deineanonr ; and as the Georf/e Hcnrij had a small but carefully-selected library in tlie cabin, furnished by the house of Williams and Haven (owners of the vessel), good books Mere occasionally distributed by the captain among officers and men, much to their satisfaction, and, no doubt, advantage. Again referring to my Journal : "June 20th, at midniglit, I witnessed a scene never to be forgotten. 1 found the wliole north illuminated — not by the aurora borealis — but l)y reflection of the sun's rays. The nortliern sky presented the appearance of a sunset perhaps twenty minutes f)ver. I could hardly believe my eyes and my position as to the points of the compass for some time. It did not seem that the morning sun could thus early be approacliing in the east, nor did it seem that the brightening before me was cither ('«.•>< uv vest. But 1 soon found the cause that so attracted ray attention was the norfhcni sun ! 1 was indeed delighted ; for, though familiar with the theory of our ])lanetary system, yet I had little thought of the beauty and variety of sun scenes presented to the view of man between tlie latitudes of Cincinnati and that of oS^", where we then were. " Early in the morning, the captain came to my berth, and called me, saying tliat a sail was in sight, and that he was liolding up for her. 1 was on deck in an instant with spy- glass in hand. All the men were on the alert, and every eye strained to discover what vessel it was. Our own cohturs were soon run up, and they were answered by the imknown showing the Danish Hag. This immediately enlightened us, and we at once knew tliat the stranger was one of *-]u' govern- ment vessels of Denniarlc annually visiting ( Jreenland. We laid-to for her, and, when she came near, ascertained her name to be the Marianc, from Copenhagen, bound to Disco. Our captain th lield his up before his eyes and npjicaird to mnl. 'J'liiuigh he could not read a woril, yet he looked learned. Solomon may have been wiser, but surely not s/mrpif than Kudlii.uo. ( n \ if i } • * ■ ' 1 . i > ij 'i i I: 1 , I I On securing his services as my intc-preter, T was in hopes that he woidd long- remain Mith me ; but, though a])])arently in good health on leaving New London, the fogs Ave en- countei'ed Avhcn crossing the Banks of Newfoundland gave him a severe cold, and, though every attention was ])aid to him, he was evidently failing very fast. One day we shot an eider-duck, and lowered a boat to get it, purposely that Kud- lago might have a generous meal in his accustomed way- The bird was skinned and carried to the poor sick Esquimaux, Avho dissected it at once, eating only the heart and liver, hofk raw. He seemed to relish it greatly, but could cat no more. As he ex:pressed a desire to be on deck, a tent was erected there, that he might enjoy the sunshine and the air. But nothing availed to save him. The following day he was again taken Ixdow, and never again left his lierth alive. He died al)out half-past four on Sunday morning. His last words were, " Tcik-ko sc-ko 1 tcik-ku sc-ku ? " — Do you see ice ? do imiilAL AT SEA. 20 ■ns held tlitj licld liis up w CDuld not vy have been 'as in hopes 1 a])])arently fo^s we en- ntUaiid gave was paid to y we shot an y tliat Kud- stonied way- ; Esquimaux, id liver, hotk eat no more. was erected he air. But lie was again e. lie died ij la.st words see ice? do you S(!e ice ? llis prayer was tliat he might arrive 1 ome, and unee more L)ok upon liis. native land— it mountains, t.s snows, its ice — and U[)(in his wile and his little ones; he would then ask no more of earth. We had sighted the Labrador coast on our way, and after that we sailed several days without seeing ice. Xudlago kept inci.'ssantly asking if we saw the ice, thinking, if so, we must lie near to his home; hut, poor fellow, lie was still far away when his iinal moments came. lie died in hit. (i;)'' N. when near the coast of Greenland, and about l\00 miles from his native place. Suital)le preparations were soon mnde for his burial in the sea. and as I had always tliought a " Ijiuhd at sea" must be a scene of great interest, the one I now witnessed for the fir.st time most strongly impressed itself ui)on me. Never did T ])articipate more devoutly in what tlien seemed to me the most solemn scene of my life. There before us was the " sheeted dead," lying amid.ships on the gangway board, all in readiness for burial. The whole slii[)'s company, save a solitary man at the wheel, had assembled in sorrowful silence around our departed friend, to pay the last resjiect we could to him. By the refpiest of Captain B , who was bound by strong ties of friendsliip to IvudLago, I had ecmsented to take an active part in the services. I therefore proceeded to make such remarks as were deemed proper for tlve occasion. These were succeeded by my reading portions of appropriate exhortations from the " ]\fasonic Manual," after which I read a prayer from the same excellent work. In this all seemed deeply, solemnly interested. During these services the breezes of heaven were wafting us on — silently, yet speedily to the north. At a given signal from the captain, who was standing on my right, the man at the helm luffed the ship into the wind aiid deadened her headway. William Sterry and Bobert Smith now stepped to the gang- way, and holding tirnily the plank on which was the .shrouded (lead — a .short pause, and down sank the mortal part of Kud- lago, the noble Esquimaux, into the deep grave — the abyss of the ocean! Oh what a scene ! IIow solemn in its grandeur i w n i'' : I , & .'i >'i • U 1 1^ if H ^ I ,1 14 1 lU.r< 30 ARCTIC RKSKARCH KXPKDTTIOX. and its siirronnilings ! The Sabbath inoniing ; a cloiuUosa ^H sky; the sun sliiniiig in all its glnvy ; tlu) cold, dark blue BI'HIAL OK KIDI.AIK). ocean, its heaving bosom ^vhitened over, here and there, Avith high pinnacled bergs; the lofty peaks of "Greenland's icy niountains " ])eering down from a distance in the east — these KL'DL.VGO'S MOXl'MEXT. ;u t cloiuUess dark blue 1;^ here, with [land's icy ast — these were some of the impressive features in the scene attending tlie burial of Kudlago at sea. An liour after the Qvnrrie Henry had been given to the leading wind, I turned my eyes back to th(! ocean grave of KLULAciOS MONIMENT. Kudlago — a snow-white monument of mountain size, and of Gad's oinnfashitniinfi, vas over it ! The next event of any im]tortance to record was the cele- bration of our glorious Fouinii OF Jcly. At that time we were in Davis's Straits, near a place called Sulilcertoppcn, in Greenland, under all sail for Ilolsteinborg, and we had been in great hopes to have arrived during the day, but contrary winds and calms prevented us. As it was, we did the best we could, and tried to prove ourselves, as we knew all of us to be, tru(! sons of our country. \! 32 ARCTIC KKSKARCH KXPRDITION. t; f' I \f; l^i \i\ m The (lay, coiiimcnciiij;' at tin; turn f)f' the iiiidiiiglit hour, was ushL'vod ill I»y chcovs iuul firing of guns. I'istols, guns, bhm- derbusscs, wcro in roadinoss for the word that shouM make the mountains of old (irceidand echo Lack our thiiuderinga for fhi:kdom and olu xativk, land ! As the hour a[)])roached, several of us were stationed at various places, ready to discharge the weapons in our hands at command. Twelve o'clock came, and the Fourth of July, 1 S(J(), was upon us. " One ! two ! ! three ! ! ! Fire ! ! ! ! " was the signal ; and never did the Gnirf/v Iloiri/ (piiver more imder the peal of deep-throated guns, in a noble cause, than on that occasion. After this the jubilee Avas continued by nring, and cheers on cheers. The national colours were run \}\) (for it was now broad daylight) and saluted. At noon another salute was given, and again twelve hours afterward, Avhen the next midnight proclaimed that another anniversary of our glorious American freedom had again departed. But we had other causes of rejoicing on this especial day. At five in the evening we had arrived at a point on the coast of Greenland which wa^ very much like the neighbourhood of Holsteinborg, The bold mountain peaks were so thickly en- veloped in clouds that it was impossible to determine the exact locality. The .sea also was covered with fog; hence it 'vas wisely determined to run off the land for the night and lie-to. This was done, and as we were upon good codfish banks, lines were put over to catch sonie. We were very successful, j^ti..!-: tv.'elve o'clock three lines had draw'n in full 800 lbs. of halibut and codfish, the latter hugely predomi- nating. I myself caught four cod weighing in all 100 lbs. One halibut weighed no less than 125 lbs. and two others fifty pounds each ! I was astonished at the sight of every cod drawn in. Such gormandizers had they been — preying npon the smaller ones of their kind — that their stomachs were dis- tended to the utmost limit of expansion. The next day, July nth, we once more stood in toward the land, but it still continued foggy, and we were nnable to get near till about 4 p.m. having just before again sighted the li 'i K8(;L'IMAUX riLuTs. 88 hour, was uns, blnn- i make tlio iiii'inga for atidiicd at our hands h of July, !!!!" was liver more !ausc', than itiimi'd hy were run At noon afterward, nnivcrsary ;ed. pecial day. 1 the coast lourhood of thickly en- mine the ; hence it nijiht and lod codfish were very drawn in y predomi- 11 100 lbs. two others every cod lyiny upon s were dis- oward the ,hle to get iglited the Miivinnf. At tliat time two Esquimaux were seen coming at full sjiecd toward us. In a few moments more they were alongside, and hoisted— kyacks and all — into the shij). Their names were " Sam])Hon " and " Ephraim," each 5 feet 0^ inolios in height, with small hands, small feet, and pleasing features, except that both had some of their front teeth gone. These men had brought an abundance of salmon, caplins, sea-birds, &c. and eagerly began to trade with us. Speedily we were on the most friendly terras, and, as they were retained to pilot us in, merry-making was the order of the day. On entering the cabin to supper their conduct was most orderly, and when it Avas over they said, in good American, " Thank you." That night I had not long retired to rest before the captain came and told me it was calm, and a good opportunity for halibut and codfish. I was quickly dressed and on deck with line in hand. Two or three minutes more, and a halibut weighing about 225 lbs. was fast to my line, fifty fathoms deep, and in another two niinutc> I had the fish up in the sun's rays with harpoon stuck through him. In one hour a ton weight of codfish and halibut was taken by the use of only three linej. Sometimes, as I was informed, halibut have been caught w oighing 500 lbs. each, and measuring eight feet in length. The Esquimaux in Greenland use the transi)arent membrane of the stomach of this fish instead of plates of glass. During the night our two faithful Esquimaux kept on deck, watching the almost obscured mountains, that they might guide us aright. Their clothing was quite wet from exposure to the high seas that prevailed when they came- to us, but they sat themselves down on deck, and there watched, coughed, and quivered. I thought, at the time, it were better if they could be prevailed upon to adopt the custom of our seamen — always on the move when out in the open air ; but I under- stood they look upon our walking to and fro as foolishness — a gi'eat amount of hard work, with much expenditure of tanned skins (shoe-leather) and muscle all for naught ! For about an hour, one of the Esquimaux made his way up VOL. I. D il I (■ 1 1' I I !' t i •* • ' III ! > [■I !i * 'i I i;r iJ:f 34 LIFE WITH TIIK ESQUIMAUX. into a whale-boat and wont to sleep. On walcing, ho seemed quite thankful for the luxury of sleopinj,', tliouyh in the open air, his lied, for several days past, haviii|^' lieeii on the soft sido of a boat, on the rocks of an island forty miles distant from Ilolsteiidjorg. lie and his companion had been there engaged in hunting ducks, &c. when they discovered the Geurf/c Ilciiri/. They wore very ragged, and Captain !> ])rescnted each with some new garments, which made them truly thankful. Some of the articles were new pants, and each man imme- diately put on a pair. Sampson's was a fair fit — that is to say, they were tight as a drum upon him ; but Ephraim's ! the waist would not meet within six inches. This, hoM'over, was all the same to him. He drew a long — very long breath ; so long, indeed, that I could not but think him like a whale, breathing once in ten minutes, or, if occasion required it, once in an hour! Then, following this, Epjiraim ceased for a moment to breathe at all, while he nimbly plied his fingers, and rapidly filled each button-hole with its respective button. Pants were now on and conipletely adjusted — hiittoncd! but as every living thing must have air or die, and as whales, when coming up to breathe, make the regions round about ring with the force with which they respire and inspire, so even an Esquimaux has to take in *resh draughts of oxygen, or he ceases to exist. Now Epbiaim had, in buttoning his pants, suspended respiration for scme longer time than nature was capable of sustaining. Accordingly, Nature resumed her functions, and, in the act of giving a full respiration, Ephraim's pants burst, the buttons flying all over the deck ! Civilization buttons and New London-made pants could not stand against the sudden distention of an Esquimaux's bowels after being once so unnaturally contracted. Here the saying of old Horace would be useful : N'aturain c rpdlcs furca tamcn usque recurret — You may turn Nature out of doors with violence, but she will return ; and he might have continued — though the violence be an Esquimaux's bowels much contracted by a pair of New London-made pants of the nineteenth century ! T will now again quote from my Journal : IK 1 i , i \ \< '^\ir^ MIDNIGHT Sl'N'. 35 lio seemed u the open le soft side istniit from !rc engaged uff/c Ilcnri/. I'lited each y thankful, nan imme- -that is to iraim's ! the )\vover, was ; breath ; so ke a whah', ired it, once sased for a his fingers, itive button. mcil ! but as liales, when ut ring with so even an ygcn, or he g his pants, nature was Dsumed her 1, Ephraim's Civilization ;and against after being fwvg of old tamcn usque ith violence, led— though tracted by a 1 century ! "f>tifiir(hii/, Jitlij 7/^.— After dancing around tho harbour of Ilulsteinborg for many hours, wo have at length made anchor within it. " During the last two or three days a fog of remarkable eluuactor has troulik'd us in making harbour. All at cnco tho whole heavens would be clear and bright ; in five minutes a thick fog would encircle us all around, closing from our view .siinli;^ht, the long ridge of Greenland mountains, tho well- defined sea horizon, islands, and icebergs. " Before coming to the North, I tli(Uiglit I was prepared to give a fair statement of tho true the(jry of ft)gs. I now am satisfied that no one can give a satisfactory reason for the appearance and sudden disaiipearance — their reappearance and final dispersion, as I have witnessed them during the last four days. "At five o'clock this morning a Danish pilot came on board, who understood fully his business, which is more than I can say of the two Esquimaux, Sampson and Ephraim. Though they have shown great faithfulness, far beyond that of white men (as a general statement), yet I cannot award them great praise in navigating large ships in their own and neigh- bouring waters. " Last night was a happy night for mo. No sunset. The slow descending sun, just dipping its edge in the Northern Sea, then hesitating in its course, then slowly mounting again into high heaven, gladdening my whole soul near to uncon- trollable joy ! " The incidents connected are worthy to be recorded. The evening (at least after ten o'clock) was fine ; sky as clear as a bell ; the air cool and invigorating. " I found, by a hasty calculation, that we had made the northing, which would allow us to see the sun continually when clear weather; that the sun would gladden our sight day after day without setting. I announced to all hands that the sun would not go down that night ; that on such a moment it would commence to return — to rise again. This was a novelty to many of the ship's crew. T then made my calcu- D2 86 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. i. 'ti i ' i I ' ^ I it tr' ;) I 'f-;i lations carefully as to time— the hour, minute, and second when the sun would arrive at its lowest meridian. This was necessary, that I might determine, as well as the circum- stances would admit, the variation of the needle. "Twelve o'clock, low meridian, midnight — I use this in distinction of high meridian, midday — was approaching. Every man, captain, and the ship's officers and crew, save tlii! portion of watch off duty below and asleep, stood around mc awaiting the anxious moment when the sun would cease its downward and commence its upward course. " The George Henry was sweeping gently along, beating up northerly and easterly against the wind. From the larboard side we peered out upon the glorious scene. With my azimuth compass resting upon the bulwarks, my eye every other moment on it and the watch (the latter had just been placed in correspondence with the ship's chronometer below), I at length announced the wished-for moment — 12 o'clock. Cheer — cheer upon cheer followed from the ship's company. Time passed on ; the sun was slowly on its upward track. At first its motion was imperceptible ; nevertheless, it was rising. "I continued to watch the upward and onward progress of the sun. Its northern declination is now growing less 'ind less, therefore the sun's presence here is less and less prolonged. Soon the arctic night will take the place of the arctic day, which is now fast clothing the mountains in green and flowers. " Before we finally entered Holsteinborg Harbour, the George Henry beat up against the wind by tacking ship four or five times. At last the hour came when the position of the ship was pronounced by the Danish Esquimaux pilot — Lars Kleijt by name — to be good — very good. The morning was all that a high-bounding spirit could wish. I had turned in about two o'clock A.M. and was now greatly refreshed from a short sleep. AVlien I arose the vessel was bending her beak toward the long-wished-for haven. Every one was on tiptoe with the joyoUsness of the present. An inquiry had passed back and forth why the natives did not come to meet us, as i I kmu \ — ARRIVAL AT HOLSTETNBORG. 37 they were wont to meet American and English vessels. While yet far off, some one exclaimed, ' There they come ! ' Every eye was quickly turned that way. I saw them at a distance coming swiftly in their kyacks. Their number seemed legion. On they came. They meet us, and greet with smiles. The Ocorrje Henry kept her coiirse ; the kyacks followed in our wake. We looked forward ; others and others were coming, as if to welcome us to their bay and homes. " As we neared the land, how eagerly I sought to catch every view that was within sight. My eyes wandered far back to the most distant mountain ; then I brought them quickly to those which seeraed about to shake hands with me, piercing into their nooks and their time-worn r^/clic —now up their pinnacles, now down to their broad liiassive bases. I was happy. " We saw the little Danish fltig on the hill that stands as sentinel to the lock-ribbed bay. We passed on ; the western ridge, that runs f?r out into the sea, stole away the winds which were so grav^efully carrying ns to our chosen port, yet enough favoured us to go slowly. Soon Holsteinborg, in all its imperial greatness, met our eye. 'Tis true, Holsteinborg was not gaudily attired, as some kiiigs' palaces are ; but there she was and is, sparkling in diamonds of pure water, radiating rainbows in continual sunlight. There she was and is, sur- rounded by walls more ancient than Jerusalem, or Thebes, or Babel's Tower — of God's creation — mountains that seem to prop up this arctic sky — mountains whose southern sides are now clothed in green and laughing flowers, and whose northern slopes rest beneath a bed of white. " As we entered the harbour, our national colours, streamer, and ship's flag were raised, and the Governor of Holsteinborg responded by hoisting the Danish ensign. Then, at 10 a.m. of this day, the 7th of July, 1860, and the fortieth day from the port of New London, United States, we came to an anchor. Had it not been for head winds and calms, we might have made the passage in twenty-five to thirty days. Captain 1) has made it in thirty-four ; he says it generally takes 88 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. ) hi about thirty. As it is, we have reason to thank God for His care and protection over us in this voyage. Oh, may Ho con- tinue His blessing ; may He be near unto me while in the prosecution of the great work before mo ! With Thee, God, I can accomplish much ; Avithout Thee, what am I ? — nothing ! nothing ! ! " The Rescue schooner — our consort and tender — had not arrived. Her orders were to keep with us if possible ; but on the night of Thursday, 31st, the third day out, during the pre- vailing fogs and wind, we lost her. The rendezvous, however, was at this place, and we daily expected to see her. V d ffi A'' .■\ 1 CHAPTER IT. Land and Visit the Oovemor — Brief nistory of Greenland — The Ilotsteinhorg District — Esquimaux and European Population— Protection and Care of the Natives by the Danish Crowiir— Plagues of Greenland — Dinner at the Governor's — M'Clintock's Work — The Priest's Wife — Visit the Government Buildings — Arrival of the '^Rescue " — Lars's Care for his Family — Dance on Shore — A Mountain Excursion — Action of Freezing Water in Crevices — Esquimaux Amusements — Schools and Printing. hit Immediately after we had dropped anchor, great excitement reigned on board. Some of us : once prepared for the shore, dressed in accordance with o le fashion of forty days ago, the captain and I intent' ; "j visit the governor. On landing, my heart leaped with joy as I touched the firm earth, and I could not help taking in my hands some of the rocky fragments on the beach, and saying, " Tliank God, I am at last on arctic land, where I have so long wished to be ! Green- land's mountains, I greet you !" As Captain Budington had met the governor before, my introduction to him was easy. It was in the afternoon when our visit took place, and Governor Elberg received us with much kindly warmth. But the events that occurred during our stay were so various, and have been so minutely narrated in my private diaiy day by day, that I must try and intro- duce them as much together as I possibly can, first giving a brief sketch of what relates to Holsteinborg and its vicinity. The early history of Greenland is generally well known, yet a brief resume of it may not be uninteresting to the reader. In many respects it borders upon romance, as indeed all the old Scandinavian chronicles do, but well-attested facts state nearly as follows : About the middle of the tenth century, one Gunbiorn, an inhabitant of the previously-settled Iceland, discovered land 4 i V'i 40 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. U to the west, and, on returning, made a report of what he had seen. Soon afterward, in the year 983, a person known as " Eric the Eed," was sentenced by the Icelanders to banish- ment for the crime of manslaughter, and he determined to visit i;he country Gunbitirn had discovered. Sailing westward in a small vessel, he arrived at the new land, and coasted it towai d the south ; then tiirning a point now known as Cape Fare\'ell, he came to an island, where he passed his first winte\ He then remained three years exploring the coasts, and finally returned to Iceland, where he gave such a report of " Greenland," as ha termed the new country, that it induced many of the colonists of both sexes to go back with him. Only some of these reached their destination, the rest turning back or perishing by the way. A colony was now formed, and communication kept up with Iceland, and even with Norway. Leif, tiie son of Eric, '.v'ent to the latter place, and, by com- mand of the king, was instructed in the Christian religion, whence he was afterward sent back, attended by a priest, who baptized Erie and all his followers. In the year 1001, one of the colonists, named Bjm'n, was accidentally driven in his ship to the southwest of Greenland, and discovered a new country covered with wood. On his return, Leif fitted out a vessel, and, with Bjorn as pilot, went in search of this new land. He found it as described, and termed it Vinland, which there can be no doubt must have been part of North America, about the latitude of 45°. Meanwhile the colonists of Greenland increased in number and prosperity. In 1121 Arnold was elected the first bishop, and several churches were built. After this no less tlia?i seventeen bishops are known to have been elected from first to last, and the two settlements of East and West Greenland (into which the colonists had divided) numbered about three hundred villages. They had their little barques going from place to place along the western coast so high up as lat. 73°, and even, as is supposed from ancient records and from Runic inscriptions seen tliere, to the entrance of the present-named AVellington Channel. u BRIEF HISTORY OF GREENLAND. 41 hat he had known as to banish- Brmined to g westward coasted it '^n as Cape 3d his first the coasts, [ch a report t it induced with him. rest turning formed, and ith Norway. nd, by com- an religion, priest, who I Bjat'n, was ■ Greenland, )d. On his i pilot, went scribed, and must have f45°. i in number first bishop, less than id from first it Greenland about three going from p as lat. 73°, 1 from Runic ■esent-named For a long time after this the history of these colonists is involved in obscurity. Intercourse with Europj was obstructed about the beginning of the fifteenth century, and whether the colonists were cut off by hordes of the Esquimaux from tlie north or west, or were destroyed by a pestilence, is yet uncertain. There is, however, a document extant, discovered by Professor Mallet in the papal archives, which seems to warrant the idea of a hostile fleet " of wild heathen " having made a descent upon the colony, fell upon the people, " laid waste the country and its holy buildings with fire and sword, sparing nothing but the small parishes, and carrying cai)tive the wretched inhabitants of both sexes." Nothing, however, has been certainly known of their fate. Only ruins of their churches and convents now remain. At length, in 1576, Martin Frobisher visited Friesland, now known to be Greenland, on his voyage of discovery to the north-west, but brought to light no particulars concerning the originnl colonists. Afterward, in 1605, James Hall, an Englishman, under Admiral Lindenow, was sent by Denmark to rediscover them if possible. He succeeded in landing upon the w^st coast, and communicated with the natives, though nothing moie resulted from his visit. Other voyagers touched upon it? shores ; but not until 1721, when that brave, and good, and truly Christian man, Hans Egcdc, conceived the project of himself going to Greenland, to spread religion among its natives, was anything permanently effected. Then Greenland soon came into nut'ce, and, at various times, colonies and missionary establishments, under the Danish Hag, were formed along its coasts. At present there are thirteen settlements, besides commercial and missionary stations. The most northern official settlement is Upernavik, in lat. 73° N. but there is a fishing establishm nic, called Tessuisak, some few miles still farther on. Holsteinborg is in lat. 66° 56' N, long. 53° 42' W. This latter place was, according to Crantz, the fifth colony begun in Greenland, and first settled in the year 1759. It is one of the most convenient places both for dwelling and trading. i 42 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. u: Holsteinboi'g District begins at North Stromsiiord, and extends for about ninety-two English miles. Its breadth eastward from the sea is also about ninety-two miles. There are four fiords in the district, and the mountains upon it are high, though not so lofty as farther north. The only European who has penetrated far to the eastward through this district is Kiclscn, in 1830. He found the land not so mountainous as toward the sea. Tlie harbour of Holsteinborg is good, and well landlocked. Tlie spring tides are about 12 feet. The buildings have, as I was told, the best appearance of any in Greenland. They may be thus enumerated : The governor's house ; priest's house ; the church ; the lieutenant governor's house ; the dance-house ; school-house ; brewing house ; the blacksmith's ; two warehouses ; one cooperage; one "try" house for oil; thirteen Esquimaux hoxrses, Danish built ; three turf houses for Esquimaux, and one dead-house, where deceased persons are placed for six days before burial. Graves are dug, even in winter, for burying. Thus the total number of buildings in Holsteinborg amounts to 29. The population is as follows : Tlie inhabitants in Holsteinborg District proper number 197 ; in Kemortusuk, 103 ; in Omanausuk, 97 ; in Sarfangoak, 158 ; in Itiblik, 108 — making a total of 663 souls. In the town of Holsteinborg there are only ten Europeans, but throughout all Greenland in 1855 they numbered 250. At that date it was estimated there were 9,644 Esquimaux, three-foiirths of whom were of Danish blood and the rest pure. In the Holsteinborg District there are three small schooners, five small boats, and eleven whale-boats. In 1859, which was considered a bad year, only one whale was captured, though sometimes ten and twelve have been caught in a single season. Of reindeer 300 were secured ; of seal-blubber, 5,000 lbs. ; liver of sharks, 2,000 lbs. ; blue fox- skins, 100 ; white foxskius, 150 ; eider-down, before cleansing, A !!Un POPUL.VTION. 43 500 lbs. ; after cleansing, 100 lbs. ; and of stockfish — that is, dried codfish unsalted, 4,000 lbs. I may state that during Governor Elberg's time, since 1850, there have been killed from 5,000 to 6,000 reindeer. Several years ago there were obtained in two years from the Esquimaux about fifty tons of reindeer horn, costing some two skilliugs, or one cent federal money, per pound ; 4,500 lbs. of it were sent home to Copenhagen, but it would not pa>" freight. The governor also told me that " wh'^never the ships were obliged to take home to Copenhagen stt.nae for ballast, they could sell it to no purpose, because it was f^omplained of as rotten." This I found to be generally tru^. On several mountains I visited, stones exposed to the atmosphere were crumbling. On Mount Cunningham I had satisfactory proof of it. Small mounds of stone that have evidently crumbled off the larger mountains may be seen lying at the base. The winters are doing their levelling work, and doing it rapidly. There are four midwives. Two have a good medical education, obtained in Copenhagen. They receive $70 (Danish) per year." Danish. The schoolmastev roceive.s per auuuni $125 00 Three otlicr teaeiiers, each ,, 100 00 Three „ ,, „ 25 00 Three ,, ,, ,, 10 00 Two „ „ , One of these latter gets six dollars, and teaches his two children — the only two children of his district — to read and write ! Four women, who teach the children "A, B, C's," get each one dollar per year. The men, sixteen in number, in the employ of government, get each forty to ninety dollars per year, besides provisions for themselves and families. Every fourteen days bread is baked for them. In the town there arc twenty-four stoves — ^only one to each ■'"'• JflS'' .»'^ * 44 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. ni '. I' f'i ^ house ; and these stoves require 100 barrels of coal and five fathoms of wood. There are reckoned to he 1,700 Esquimaux sealers in Oreen- land, 400 fishers, and one Esquimaux officer (a clerk), whose father was a Dane and the Governor of Lieveley — Goodhavn. In addition, there are of Esquimaiix 17 foremen and boats- men ; 22 coopers and blacksmiths ; 87 sailors ; 15 pensioners, whose business is to look after goats, and who get half lations of beer, pork, meat, and butter, &c but full rations of peas, barley, &c. There are also 20 native catechists or missionaries. The European missionaries and priests number 13 German and 11 Danish. Of first and second govcu-nors there are 31. Three doctors visit each place one year. There are 30 European clerks ; 7 boat-steerers ; 28 coopers, carpenters, and blacksmiths ; 19 sailors and cooks ; and 8 pensioners. The whole body of missionaries are paid per annum, in Danish money, $16,360; of which amount Government House gives fl4,650, and the East India Missions, at the outside, $2,000. For schools and school-books the sum of $6,500 is appropriated. I now proceed with my personal narrative. Among the numerous visitors that greeted us on our arrival, I was astonished to find myriads of musquitoes. Little did we expect so warm a reception in the arctic regions. Talk about musquitoes in the States as being numerous and troublesome ! Why no man who has not visited the arctic shores in the months of July and August can have a good idea of these Liliputian elephants. In the States the very hum of a nmsquito is enough to set any one upon his guard. How many a poor soul there has been kept in a state of torment all night by the presence of only two or three musquitoes ! But here, in the North, it is a common, every- hour affair to have thousands at one time around you, some buzzing, some drawing the very life-blood from face, hands, arms, and legs, until one is driven to a .state approaching 1 i (JKEENLAND CUURENCY, 45 madness. Even the clothiMg woi-n in the States is no pro- tection here against the huge proboscis with which each lady musquito is armed. On Monday, July 9th, a hvughable circumstance occurred. It consisted in the fact that Esquimaux had managed to outwit Yankee, and thus it was : Sterry — the sharp Sterry, Avho imderstands the Esquimaux language, had been assisting Smith, tlie third mate, in some " trade " with the natives. Sampson, the pilot, was tlxe man who had come on board, with several otliers, to see what could be picked up. He was accosted by Smith, and asked if he had any thing to trade ; but the reply was that " all had gone." In fact, he had parted with every thing of value in his possession, and that, too, for nominal prices in return. Smith, however, was not satisfied, and again pressed the Esquimaux. At length it occurred to Sampson that he had money, with which he could purchase outright gome tobacco. So he asked Smith if he had any to sell. Smith replied, "Yes; how much do you want?" Sampson thereupon drew forth a Danish bill, marked " sex skilling" — a shn plaster — cUHbV e/ic/ei;^^ yruf^ iiUEF.Ki.Avn crnnEN'c V 4<3 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. ' ! '1 'i and said, " How much you sell fortius?" Smith took tlio bill witli avidity, and showed it to our ncute, jocular, and ever yuod humoured ISterry. I hero show a fiic-similo of it to my readers. Sterry, seeing the " sex skilling" on the bill, thought it to be .six shillings Yankee currency, and accordingly himself addressed the Estiuimaux in native tongue. "How many 2^fi<[/''i for thi«>?" said he. " Foiir," answered Sampson. Now this, if each u'nh'rstood the other, would have been clear, straightforward, and a bargain. But Sterry, though well talking Esquimaux on the west side of Davis's Straits, was not so proficient in it at Green- land, where there is a material diflerence. Accordingly, Sampson's reply he took to mean four 2}ou)ifJs of tobacco, which amounted to thirty-two plugs. This, even at the " six shillings" Yankee currency, was a pretty " .steep price," for the tobacco was worth at least one dollar and sixty-eight cents. However, for certain reasoils connected with an extreme thirst then raging throughout both Sterry and Smith, it was concluded to let the tobacco go that the money might be had. Smith, therefore, went to his chest and got what Sampson wanted. As the plugs of tobacco were counted over to the Esquimaux, his eyes expanded with immense delight and astonishment. He hastened to his kyack Avith the " godsend," and hurried to the shore, the richest native man in Holsteinborg. Immediately he communicated to his friends the immense wealth that had befallen him from his "sex shillings ;" how he had asked only four plugs of tobacco from the white man on board the ship, and he had got eightfold. It was enough. What California was to Americans, so was the barque George Henry now to the Esquimaux of Holsteinborg. Kyack after kyack came with its dignified Esqiiimaux, each loaded with a large complement of the fortune-making " sex skilling." Sampson, who had so quickly got rich, was among the new- comers, eagerly seeking for more. But, alas for the hopes of men, especially when founded on bank-bills ! A speculation had already commenced in town on the "skilling notes." They ran up above par to 300, 400, and, at one time, 800 per '^T GREENLAND CIKEENCY. 47 cent. ! And when the Esquimaux, to some scores of persons, nrrivL'd on board, they iound themselves paitly ruined instead of being enriclied. Our Sterry and Smith had discovered their mistake, and thus n.any an Esquimaux, vho, like several white men, had invested his all in that sort of paper currency at high figures, found himself almost beggared. Directly Sampson came on board, he -was met by Smith at the gang- way, and the following took place, to the dismay of the numerous new traders : Taking the "cussed" bill from his pocket and handing it to Sampson, Smith said, " No good ; too little money for four pounds tobacco." Sam])Son, with honest face, looked Smith in the eye, and replied, "He be good;" which really vas true — good for its face, sex skilliug, equivalent to about three cents federal coin. But Sterry, who had joined, now insisted, in as good "Husky" (Esquimaux) language as he could com- mand, that " too little money for good deal tobacco," and he held up his finger of one hand, a thumb and all his fingers of the other. Sampson now understood, and woefully but honestly said, " I go get tobacco and bring it back." Smith handed him the bill, but Sampson at once told him to keep it until he should return. " No," said Smith, " take it along with you. I'll trust you. I see you're honest, and A'ish to do what is right. It's Sterry's fault," he added, afterwards, " or I should not have been caught so. But, if I never get my tobacco again, I don't care. I've learned a good lesson, and that is, not to deal in ' Husky ' bank-stock. I'm now a Jackson man. D— n all banks except that of Newfound- land, where I hope yet to catch more cod on my way to and from these parts." Need I say that the Esquimaux had to return on shore very crestfallen with their disappointment ? Who would not have been, especially after investing in stocks, as many of , them had done ? To finish the history of this affair, I may as well add here that, in a few days after this, " Sanipson," with all his family I and his friends, left Holsteinborg for some other place. Smith j I PI ; 8 I!' I ir I ^1 4ft LIFE WITH TIIK ESQriMAl'X, tluirpfore bocanio iniiiua four pounds ol' tobiu'co, and tlu' "sex skilliii},' " liosulos ! Thus tl»o Ksiiuiiuaux coinplistely out- witted two of CUV emai't Yniikcoa, and, what is more, did it without tho .siiialh'st intention of dishonesty at the tiiiio. Stony always dt'clared that he thought the "sax skilling" bill was six Yankee shillings, and both he and Snihli acknowledged they were anxious to g(!t some Greenland money to "splice the main brace." Ever afterwards they liad frequi-nt reminders from our ship's company of the joke. Thursday, July 10th, was a most interesting day to me, on account of a visit paid by Captain Budington and myself to Governor Elberg. Leaving the ship, which was anchored half a mile from the landing, we were taken on shore by an Esquimaux boat rowed by natives, and arrived at Govern- ment House about 4 p.m. We found him busily engaged with his clerk in preparing an Annual Keport for the King of Denmark ; but he kindly welcomed lis, and, putting aside his labours, escorted us into a private room. Here we soon entered into genial conversation ; and a present from Captain Budington of sweet j^otatocs grown in Florida (never before seen by the governor), with a case of preserved quinces from me, much pleased him. Hearing that I had on board a copy of [M'Clintock's Voyage, he asked for a loan of it, and I let him have it soon after- ward. Captain M'Clintock, in the accoimt of his voyage, thus speaks of his visit to Holsteinborg in the latter end of April, 1858 :— " We have been visited by the Danish residents — the chief trader or governor, the priest and two others. ... I after- ward visited the governor, and found his little wooden house as scrupulously clean and neat as the houses of the Danisli residents in Greenland invariably are. Tlie only ornaments about the room were portraits of his unfortunate wife and two children. They embarked at Copenhagen last year to rejoin him, and the ill-fated vessel has never since been heard of. . . . This is a grand Danish holiday ; the inhabi- tants are all dressed in their Sunday clothes — at least all who i ily , v^ THE PRIKSTS WIPK. 40 liavo got a (.'liango of giiriuonl — and tluTc is holli morning nntl t'VL'ning .servico in tlio small wooden clinrdi. . . . This is tlio only part of Groenland where cartlniitakcs n\v ft'lt. The governor told mo of an unusually sc'vcro shock which occurred a winter or two ago. lie was sitting in his room reading at the time, when he hoard a hmd nois(! like the dis- charge of a cannon. Immediately aftiu'wards a tremulous motion was felt ; some glasses upon tlio table began to dance about, and papers lying on tlu* win(U)W-sill I'l.'U down. After a few seconds it ceaseil. Ho thinks tlu; motion originattul at the lake, as it was not felt by some people living beyond it, and that it passed from N.E. to S.W. . . . The mountain scenery is really charming. . . . The clergyman of Holstein- borg was born in this colony, and has succeeded his father in the priestly office ; his wife is the only European female in the colony. Being told that fuel was extremely scarce in the Danish hcaises, and that the j)vwhCs wife was blue with the culd, I sent on shore a present of coals." The governor invited us to visit the various buildings and the town. We first directed our steps to the general govern- ment store, where we saw almost as much variety as in a country store at home. There was a little of every thing, with a good deal of malt, barley, peas, and dry bread, which will keep for years. ^ In a warehouse near the landing, I noticed largo quantities of whale rope, butter, fish, and crackers enough for his whole population (numbering 700 souls) for two years. Every thing was of the most substantial character, and stored in such a large quantity in case the vessel which is annually sent to the colonists from Denmark should be lost. There was also a large supply of deer-skins, seal-skins, water-proof clothing, &c. In a loft over the store I saw some sword- hlades, used for cutting hluhher ! Resolving swords into ploughshares is an old idea, but swords into Idubber-cutters is something decidedly new. While at the store a customer [arrived — an Esquimaux, lie wanted son 3 sxujfw and cope. This was served to him VOL. I. K 50 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. i'^ r i k"' and he paid for it by a Greenland bill of twenty-four skillings, equal to fourteen cents American. We next visited the blacksmith's shop— a building that looks quite equal to a fine village dwelling-house. Inside was the machine-shop, with long rows of whale gear, har- poons, lances, &c. and three whale guns. Here I saw a cast- iron stove, whicli the governor said was the kind used by the natives. This stove was ^led all over and polished; the stove-pipe, twenty feet long, also of cast iron. Its price was equivalent to $15 Federal money. The blacksmith was a fine- looking, intelligent mechanic. Our next visit was to the school-house. To enter it we had to stoop much. " He stoops to conquer," was an idea that entered my mind as I thought of the teacher who bends his head on entering that temple of knowledge. The teacher's business is to lend. "As the twig is bent, the tree's in- clined." Intelligence and virtue wiU yet conquer ignorance and vice. Who would not stoop that such a cause — the cause of knowledge — might progress ? On returning to the governor's house, we went into an upper room which overlooks Davis's Straits and the many islands around the entrance of the harbour. Here is the " apothecary's shop," the contents of which the governor him- self dispenses as required among ljj|e sick natives. Shelves of stationery were also round the room ; and in a closet a quantity of eider-down, from which, in 1850, both Dr. Kane and Commodore De Haven had some for their beds. The keys of the government buildings — many of ponderous size — were also kept in a closet here. After examining the several places of note, we sat down to an excellent supper of duck, salmon, trout, eider-duck's eggs, butter, American cheese, some very rich goat's mUk, white flour bread, Yankee-brewed rye liquors, and good tea. A Danish custom of shaking hands on rising from tabic followed. We then went out for a walk, and to call on the lieutenant governor. This gentleman was very kind and urbane in his demeanor. He brought forth numerous speci- h^^lh EVENING PARTY ON SHORE. 51 mens of Greenland rocks and of fossil fish — capelin (Mallotus villosus) — called by the Greenlanders " angmarset," by the Danes " sild," and by the English " capelin." This fish is about six inches long, of a bluish-brown colour* on the back, and silver-white on the belly. Tlie fossils were found about 100 miles up a fiord, the entrance to which is close by here. Though they are of great value, the lieutenant governor most generously presented the whole to me. At his house I saw some very good snow-shoes, such as are used in Norway. They are about six feet long by five inches wide, and covered with sealskin. They are made of a flat, thin piece of board, bent up at its fore part. This is the kind of snow-shoe Pariy bought at Hammerxest, in Norway, when on his North Pole voyage in 1827. He afterwards used them for runners, on which he placed his two boats to be drawn over the ice. We spent the evening in the governor's house, where a pleasant party was assembled, among whom were the priest's wife, Mrs. Kjer, and another lady, FcoJcen Billou, daughter of the governor of the district of Goodhaab. The priest himself was absent on a journey. During;' conversation I related how M'Clintock found the paper belonging to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, and deep interest was evinced by all in the sub- ject. The governor read from M'Clintock's work that portion relating to his visit here, and which I have already transcribed. When the part was translated which referred to the priest's wife being " blue with the cold," it caused immense merri- ment, none enjoying the joke more than the lady herself. The whole scene, indeed, was such as I cannot readily forget. The Esquimaux servants, in their costume, were around, M'Clintock's book in t\\e, governor's hand, while the chart and fac-sinule of the Franklin record lay open before him. After tea the ladies commenced knitting some lace, and during the evening Madam Kjer presented me with a mui^tard- ladle and two salt-shovels, all of ivory walrus tusk, made by an Esquimauxrj<;i7/i mily a hiife I They were of excellent workmanship, and I valued them greatly. I had previously E 2 52 LIFE WITH THE ES(iUIMAUX. ;•!:'! i i J IS MJ I. f :i n i i it- offered the ladies two pin and needle cushions, which they had kindly accepted. During a conversation with the governor this day he in- formed me that the whole of Greenland belongs to the King of Denmark as his royal prerogative, and is the only depen- dency that is controlled exclusively by him. Much fault is found with this by the people of Denmark — much written in the papers. Those who are for the king retaining this right con- tend that otherwise the poor Esquimaux would at once become debased, and lose all the great influences that are now at work for their benefit. Throwing open the ports of Greenland Avould be followed by vessels of every country visiting the natives, and purchasing their skins, oil, and bone for liquor ! The Esqui- maux of Greenland will dispose of their all to obtain spirituous drinks, and the governor said that not for any- thing would he sell them a glass of liquor. After bidding the party a cordial good-night, we returned to the beach at half-past ton, and found one of our boats ready to take us off. It contained Sterry (red as a beet), Smith, Eogers, and five or six others of the crew, who had been at a dance given by the mother- in-law of the lieutenant go\ernor. They had all enjoyed themselves amazingly. The following day, Wednesday, July 11th, fogs prevailed. Hardly a nmsquito had been seen since Sunday ; and to me it was a singular fact, that a warm sunny day will bring myriads around you within the arctic circle, when, if it be at all foggy, none are to be seen. The bites of these annoying little insects remained for days, and my whole body was covered with the merciless wounds inflicted by them. In the afternoon an "''iniiak," or vjomari's boat, came alongside, rowed by Esquimaux girls. There were in the boat two mothers, with their babies, and ten young women. They had been out gathering fuel,* and called upon us on their way back. The accompanying illustration of an Esquimaux woman and child is a fac-simile of a wood-cut drawn and engraved * A dwarf shrub — Amlromcda tetrngona. <':f axix woman GIlEnMLAND WOMAN AND CHILD. [Fnc-simlle of a wood-cut executed by nn Esfiuimaux.] .--S3^r--C':.aM,nf«.SS ' 1 I ! ' ! ) ' ' ' 1 i- IJ ■ i! 1 . t |ii (/■, li w I n : ,'i^ \ N t ! I t LARS' CARE FOR HIS FAMILY. 55 by a Greenlander named Aaron, living near Goodhaab, who has received no better education than the generality of his countrymen. About 2 P.M. of this day our consort, the Resciie, hove in sight, and, as the wind was almost gone, boats were sent to help her in. I went in one of the boats, pulling an oar, and, after rowing a distance of some miles, got on board of the schooner. By that time it was calm, and the stillness of evening had approached. Another boat, containing Smith, and the noble, good-hearted Esquimaux pilot, called Lars Klcijt, had joined us, and there we were, in real whaling fashion, towing the new arrival into harbour. Four boats, of beautiful form and finish — ^two white, with blue gunwales, and two green — were in a line ahead of the Rescue, pulling her along, while the merry voices of our men resounded upon the still waters, and were echoed back from the bold mountains in answering glee. It was a pretty sight as witnessed from the schooner's deck, and one to be often remembered. "Otto," a pure-blooded Esquimaux, stood at the wheel to steer us in, and all hands besides, except the cook, were in the boats. At midnight ws came to an anchor within a couple of stones' throw of Grovemment House. Both Otto and Lars Kleijt were reckoned such good men and ice pilots that every confidence was placed in them. I asked the latter, "What for" — meaning how much — "you go to West Land (King William's Land) with me ? " His answer was, " My mother old man — she get no dinner — my little ones die ! " Captain Walker, of a Scotch "vi haler, last year tried to get "Lars" to go with him, and offered to make him second mate ; but Lars said, " Me no go for all the world. My family I " A noble fellow this Lars. But, poor man ! he was then much distressed, owing to the loss of his wife, who had died a few weeks previous to our visit. He himself appeared very sick, and my sincere wish was that so good a nO LIFE WITH THK ESQUIMAUX. ( I ■ f if) r I ■I ,; I ,- ' '» Imsltand, son, and parent might be q'ared for his little ones and the mother he so greatly loved. Otto loved his groff. He and Lars went out fisliing. On return, coming aboard, he most earnestly asked !"!•)? a gh'.ss of spirits, " to keep srdt-water out of poor J'sipiimaux ! " In tise evening of the follf)wing day, inj'self, the; captain, mate, Lfiuib, and nuost of the crew, went on shore to a grand dance given by the Esquimaux girls to the white-men visitors,. .Sterry, ouv genial Sterry, was in his elemcut. He had r. most cajiiVrd frjully fi'i* -nining the affections of the fair sex, and proved himself v.rt-llent on the variations. He had a continual crowd of the ^;; ;id-]i'n];ing around him. Wo had an old sea-captain (an Esquiiaaux), Irouface, as a fiddler, perched up in the window, with pijx u his mouth, and meny, right merry did all of us b( (''..ne. Sev'jral dances, in excellent order, were performed, anil many of our company went through their waltzing witli Esquimaux partners in capital styk;. Everything A\as done in tlic most kindly and agreeable manner ; and when the party broke u]), it left u]ion the mind Ui I'.aclx of us a feeling of the most friendly nature. The first Sunday at Holsteinborg I determined to ascend the Jii'iiuitain on the north side f^f the liarbour, and there worship in the great temple of the world's Creator. In the morning, accompanied by Sterry, wo began the ascent, with a fine clear sky above, and the glorious sun shining warmly u]>on us. But, ere we had got far, swarms of musquitoes came around. Fortunately, I had long hair on my head, and my beard and mustache were also of great length. Sterry, however, had to cover his face with a handkerchief haviii" two little holes for look-outs. As we went on, streams of pure and sparkling cold water came dancing down the mountain side, and at these we several times quenched our thirst. Thus steep after steep we mounted, but at wliat cost ! The sun's rays poured hot upon our backs, and both of us soon had to doff our coats, leaving tlie musquitoes to persecute us at will. All we could do was to push on quickly, to see if we could get into a higher region ii A^V y^? A MOUNTAIN EXCURSION. 57 little ones ■Mr),ince-house is re;4ularly opened alter 4 P.M. The pe(»ple go to church in the niorninjf and al'ter- noon, then they consich.'r Sunday to cease, and aiuuseuieiit begins. I went to the danc(;-house, where I found the governor, his lieutenant, Miss IJiilou, and INIrs. Kjiu'. Miss lUilou and the lieutenant-governor danced, lint the governor has not for years, and the priest and his wife nevcir. Some- times 150 ])er.sons are crowded into this dance-house. I asked the governor when the Sabbath began, lie replied, " On Saturday evening, and ends Sunday nt 4 p.m." I fattluir iucpiired if the Esquimaux were iit lilierty to work fifter that I, our on Sundays, lie said, " No, certainly not." " Then how is it the government dance-house is opened Ibr balls at tliat time?" said I. "Oh, that is not work!" responded the go(jd Governor Elberg. Iteferring to the amusements of these native CIreeidanders, I am led to speak of a great festival that occurs here on the Danish king's birthday, and is general, on the same day, throughout all the settlements. His Danish majesty supplies the good cheer, and Europeans as well as Esquinuiux join in the festivity. It is a most enlivening scene, as the accom- l)anying sketch will show. The original of this picture, which I have in my possession, was drawn by a Greenlauder, and ]\Irs. Kjer, who gave it to me, said it was an admirable repre- sentation of the great festal day. On another occasion I visited the church one Sunday morning, when the school-teacher — a native Esquimaux — preached exceedingly well, and 1 must say that the general attention g: 'cn would do credit to people anywhere. Tlie proacher played an organ, and went through the whole ser- if G2 LIFE WITH TlIK ESQUIMAUX. I , ! I i IP i\t !• ■ % Iff ' t vices in a most praiseworthy manner. Indeed, T was miidi struck with the great advance made by the native inliabitaiits ol' Ilolsteinborg hi Christian and peneral educational know- ledge. Their school is well attended, and reading and writing; are carried on admirably. Very few pea-sons here at home have any true conception of the great advance made in education by these Greenland Esquimaux. It has often astonished mo when listening to the apt and ready way in which even children would pro- nounce some of their extraordinarily long words, some of those words consisting of no less than fifty letters ! The following is one of their long words, but not the longest ; — riniagagssakardluarungnacrangat. In all the trials made on one occasion in the cabin, by both male and female — by old and young — by all, I found none but could read, anil read well. I was surprised to see the rapidity — the full, clear enuncia- tion of every syllable, with which they read ; and one little Esquimaux boy seemed to exceed the rest, though all did well Perhaps I cannot give my readers a better idea of this than reprinting a small portion of a child's First Primer, beginning at the alphabet, and giving the sound of each letter. The explanation M'as carefully made to rao by Miss Biilou. The Greenland Esquimaux alphabet consists of twenty-four letters, as follows : — A, B, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, K', L, M, N, O, P, E, S, T, U, V, Y, M, 0. The sound of each letter only varies from what we give to the same in the following : — G is A;c ; H, ho ; I, c; J, yogc ; K, qu ; K', qih ; E, cr ; U, oo ; Y, oc-i. The following is the Lord's Prayer in Esquimaux : — " Atatarput k'illangmfitottina ! Ak'kit usfornarfille ! Nahe- ; gt\v6t tikkiudle ! Pekkosfset k'illangmifut nunnaniisaak ta- i SCHOOLS AND I'lllNTINa. m iinnikillo ! Tunnisfigut udlonio pikfavtinnik ! Pisfariiunatta akkiitl'oravta, pisliungillavuttilak akkCtfortivut ! Usloviiai to- laiit pislitfarauuatta, ajortomitUo anniiutigut ! NAlajgauniiro- {,'avit piirarfuunenitUuttidlo usforn.iniemdluttiillo isl'ok'augit- toniut. Allien." The minister Kjer has been at work translating " Robinson (Jrusoc " into Esquimaux, that copies might be printed and distributed among his people in Greenland. In his library there is an Esquimaux r>ible, and everything is done to make the natives of Ilolsteinborg good and happy. Dr. llink has also issued some useful story-books in Esquimaux, one of which books, and also a copy of the doctor's famous work, the governor kindly gave me. Dr. Eink is so well known by repute among scientific men and others, that I need hardly say much about him. Unfor- tunately, he was absent at my visit, but I wrote to him about the object of my undertaking, and expressed my regret at not having had the pleasure of an intei-view.* * Tho following is a copy of tho letter I sent to Dr. Rink, and, as it explains some matters that belong to my movements after this date, I liere append it : " HoLSTBiNnoRO, Orccnlnnil, July 24th, 1800. " On board tlio biirquo George Henry. "Dr. H. Rink: " Deau Sir, — Though unacquainted personally, yet I claim to know you, n common with my countrymen, from your works, as a man devoted to the increase of knowledge among men, especially that knowledge pertaining to geography and science. " On my arrival here, July 7th, it was with sorrow that I learned from Governor Elberg that you had departed. The pleasure and profit, intel- lectually, of meeting one so experienced in and devoted to tho regions of the North would have been incalculable. " I am on my way to King William's Land, vid Frobisher Strait, Fox Channel, Fury and Hecla Strait, Gulf of Boothia, and Boothia. On tho peninsula of Boothia and King William's Land I expect to spend tho next three years, devoting myself mainly to the object of continuing and com- lileting tho history of the Franklin Expedition. " I am satisfied that Frobisher Strait can be navigated, though no vessel has yet penetrated through its entire length. Fox Cliannel, on the cost side, lias never been navigated beyond latitude 66° 50' N. Fox's Farthest, and Parry's discoveiy near the east entrance of Fury and Ilccla Strait, should bo connected by other discoveries. 1 am hoping to complete this chain of dis- coveries this year. " Since my arrival here in Greenland— 17 days ago — 1 have received the 64 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. r <■. I' > The following are a few interesting particulars I obtained from Governor Elberg concerning this eminent man: — At the time I visited Holsteinborg ho had been inspector of South Greenland eight years ; two years also governor of Julianna-haab. He is a tall man, and a clever student. He was employed by government to survey Greenland, and received during the time 500 Danish dollars per annum, besides found in everything. The government supplied all the boats, men, and provisions. Dr. Rink's wife was 17 years of age when he married her. She was the daughter of Governor Miiller, who in 1850 was succeeded by Governor Elberg over the Holsteinborg District. ]\Irs. Ilink was born at Frederick's Haab, and she likes Green- land s^ well for her home that she would be sorry to leave it. most kindly and liospitaWe attention from Governor Elberg, the knowledj^o of which will bo gratifying to my countrymen under whoso auspices I am making this voyage. " Governor Elberg has presented me with a copy of your work upon South Greenland. This is another valuable acquisition to the geographic and scien- tific world. " Believe me, sir, Ilumani nihil alicnum, hk " Respectfully, C. F. Hall." I: » i ^n CHAPTER III. • Visit <\f Governor Elbcn/ in the Ship — Adam Bnk — Another Mountain Ascent — The " Woinan's Hood" — A ijrand Scene— Ball on board Shij) — Sun's Eclipse — Danger to Shi}) and Boat in a Gale — Curious Esquimaux Feats — Mishap to the "George Henry's" Windlass — A stirring Picture — Letters Home — Leave-taking. OuB consort, the Rescue, having rejoined xis, it was det(U'- mined by Captain Budiugton to depart for his whaling-ground on west side Davis's Straits directly all the necessary prepara- tions about .the ship were completed for navigating among the ice. ^Meanwhile I availed myself of the spare time to frequently visit the shore, and take rambles in the neighbour- hood. But, though I find many things in my journal that might be worth mentioning at this period, yet there is so luuch to be said elsewhere, when I arrive on the actual field of my labours, that I must now hurriedly go over what more occurred at Holsteinborg. I here make a few extracts from my journal :— "July 13^A. — This afternoon Governor Ell)erg, with his lieutenant and wife, visited us, and were welcomed to the best of our power. I had promised the governor to show him a collection of Arctic charts broiight with mo, and also the British rarliamentary Eeports of the Searching Expeditions, and the works of Kane, Franklin, Parry, &c. He was greatly interested, making many inquiries that I took pleasure; in answering. A map of the United States much attracted his attention, and he asked several (piestions as to our home progress, and the rise of new cities, inventions, c^'c. Street- railroads were quite new to him, he never having heard of such in the Old Country. VOL. I. F ' I •I t f I I t^) ifi II . (I ! » I I 1 « ' i i J 11 ;♦ ^' i ■ I ; I! ! ()() LIKE WITH THE KSQUiatAUX. " He inquired very much about ]Mr. CJrinnell, whose nauio is as familiar iu Greenland as it is in the United States and Europe. " At our tea the governor partook of two dishes which he then tasted for the first time in Greenland, viz. fresh lobsters and cranberry i)reserves. lie pronounced them ' very good.' American cheese — with which he keeps himself well supplied — he ,'dso likes much. "After an interchange of friendly gifts — that from tlic g(jv('rn(ir l)eing an Esquimaux suit of water-proof sealskin — our visitor.-} took their departure, and were rowed on shore by girLs, two of them very neatly attired in their native costume. " Tliis day, in pi-esence of Captain Budington and Lars KliMJi, I have head a prolonged conversation with Adam Heck, an Ms(pumaux wlio acted r.s interpreter for Sir John Eoss in 1850-]. L(irs can talk much more fluently the; English language than Adam Beck. The latter said : — " ' Captain Phillips ' (who was with Sir John Eoss) ' speak : "Adam ISeck, plenty lie." Beck then paused a moment and added, " Sir John Eoss very good man — plenty pray — plenty cat — Carl I'etersen no speak Husky (Esquimaux) quick — nut good Husky speak — small speak Husky ! " ' " Adam fartlier contijuied, and saiil, ' he spoke with the Esipiimaux at Cape York. They told him two ships had been seen there ; that there were plenty of officers and men — much butter and much bread — ships go all to pieces — all die. Adam Beck speak to Peter.son, lie ! Petersen speak Adam Beck, lie ! Carl Petersen plenty lie — d — d lie !' " Both Ca]itain B and myself are satisfied that Adam Beck told to Sir John Eoss exactly what York-Cape Esijui- maux told to him. It seems that Commander Phillii)s and Carl Petersen repeatedly told Beck that he was a liar, and otherwise abused this now almost wreck of a man ! The treatment Adam Beck received from Sir John Ross is remem- bered kindly to this day. Poor Beck was thq instrument of comnmnicatiiig fabrications of Cape York Jilsquimaux, and for this English historians have written him down as the 1 ! ANOTHER MOUNTAIN ASCENT. 67 author, when it is not probable that he was, taking all the circumstances into consideration. The stigma cast upon him burns to his very heart's core to this day. Even iiere his name is blackened by the public notoriety given him abroad as the man who fabricated falsehoods relative to the destruc- tion of two ships near Cape Dudley Digges, and the violent deaths of the officers and men supposed to refer to Sir John Franklin's Expedition. " Who of us that has not done an act worthy to be so generally condemned could stand up against this tide ? Not one in a thousand would do it I Adam Beck is of the 999. lie lives on the ' don't care principle.' He has lost all self- respect, for all shun him. I pity him from the bottom of my heart. AVould that cheering words like those Sir John Eoss were wont to utter when living could be whispered in his ear. Adam Beck is wretched — poor. He has an old, rickety, leaky boat, that some one has abandoned. That is all he has in tliis world, save the old skins on his back that once warmly covered him. I will strive to show him the respect due as a Imiiiau being. Though he be an outcast, I know there is in his breast a chord that will vibrate to kindness and humnniti/. " Saturday, July \Wi. — This afternoon I started out for the mountains actompanied by Adam Beck. I had with me, swinging from my .shoulders, my sextant and my glass, and in my pockets, tape-line, geological hammer, chisel, aud other tra])S. " After some distance we came to a river that it was neces- sary to cross, but for three miles we could lind no practicable ford. At length I determined to strip and wade over, carrying my clothes and effects on my head. The water was intensely cold, and two winds met exactly in my passage, yet the scene was extraordinarily beautiful ! The golden sand under my feet — the diamond-shaped waves cansetl Ity the angular breezes — the arctic sun pouring down its bright, warm rays from just above the peaks of Greenland's mountains, and retlected from the sparkling waters around me, will never be % lorgottcn. f2 '':^r^' {:^s LIl'E WITH THK ESQUIMAUX, ft' i- ^If m "On landing, I iv[)lacGd my clothes and trudgod along, gathering many hoauteons llowers by the way. Up, up tho moimtain— stecj) following stoop — away wo wont, loavuig piles of stones — three stones in each (I said in my thoughts, ' Faitli, llopo, and Cliarity') — to mark tlie Avay on our dowmvanl jiatli, for our route was heretofore unknown by the native or the European population. At length we came to the top of all save the last mountain, which was cf)vereil with snow. Here we found tlxo steepness to be such that for a moment I. hesitated ; but, determined to try and ascend yet higher, I made the attempt. Adam looked up and shook his head, actually falling to the ground, saying he ' would not, could not accom- pany mc for the whole world ! ' Therefore I had to go alone. " The peak I was about to climb had the name of 'Woman's llood,' and I started on my way \\\> it wit'.i great caution, erecting piles of 'Faith, Hope, and Charity' at intervals, to guide me back. Every now and then I was obliged to desist. The sun in the nortlnvest was pouring on my back compound ri'.ys, in addition to tho dazzling glare reflected from the sen. The exertion made was innnense. Frequently I had to dig out cracks between the rocks for both fingers and toes to hold on by. I dared not look around. I was unable to do any- thing hut go on. At length 1 reached a lofty peak, and to my dismay beheld another beyond it, with a precipici! between ! For a nuuuent I hung to tho rock iqion which 1 stood. I closed my eyes. 1 gradually o])oned them, with shaded hands. I gazed upon tho awful de])ths below ; then, glancing round, 1 saw one of Nature's grand and mighty scones. Mountains upon mountains, with great breaks between, burst on my view. On one side, the lake, river, ami va,lley below, with Davis's Straits in the distance ; on the (jther, peak upon peak, to some Hv(! Inindred, towca'inn upward to the skies. j\Iount Cunningham, as tho highest was called, was evidently inaccessible, and to attenii)t ii would have been foolhard}-. I therefore ended my jouriuy here, erected a pile of stones, and then marking my name, began the descent. BALL OX BOALD SHIP. 69 " I found Adam I'eck anxiously waiting mo, and, in duo course, togetlicr wo readied tlio town, wlicrc I ])rocurcd fi liiiat and got safely on board, well tired, but satisfied with my journey." 7\.(lam informed mc that his children had no food, and t'liough I had paid him well, and did for him all in my power, yet that could not help him much. The next day he, his wife, two children, and an infant at her back, went out in their rickety canoe to try and catch fish for " poor picaninnies." The following is a fac-similc of Adam Pieck's writing, when I asked him to put down his name and date of birth, which he did, adding the name of Sir John Ifoss. There is no C in the Grcenland-Esc[uimaiix alphabet, as already explained, and this accounts for its omission in the, iiDve. On the 10th of July we endeavoured to return the many kindnesses shown \is by the good jieojile of llolsteinbnrg by inviting them to a ball. The lieutenant-governor and huh% tli(> schoohnaster, and his wife, with their infant child at her back, and most all the town, were there. Never did the Gcdi-f/r Ifiiiri/ and her crew hxjk ha])]ii(>r, gayer, or present a more varied scene. "With warm hearts, honest faces, and a ready mood for the fullest uiirth of the hour, did we enter upoi) the festive day. The vessel was decollated f helles of my own eovintry have ! Ii' ,i ' I L.AN''K UN I'OMIl- ■|11-: lil.Mi.llK HKS**. said of it ? 1 lihish to think. However, it so Happened that nobody vras hurt, except a few of the llolsteinhoig maidens, n])on whose feet I hadrather clumsily trod, and who afterward went away limping, witli a remark, "That man maybe a good dancer " (1 never danced before in all my life), " but he's very heavy and far-reaching on his pedals ! " As On- the dunci/if/, let me honestly conU'ss that I felt the better for it. I am sun's eclipse. 71 As for r yet iin- ndin^f on I those til' into tlio s, I went ore called ntry liavi' sure that many evils in my nature tlicn found a way out at my feet. After the ball on deck, we succeeded in getting up some sini/uig below in the cabin. Among the Esquimaux, the schoolmaster — who is really a capital fellow — was the leader, end his singing was ti'uly excellent. There was, however, thia sin>.ularity in it — many of the songs were to church tunes! On our side, we had the national airs, " Hail Columbia," " Star- sjianglod Banner," &c. which were vociferously cheereil. While the latter was sung, I raised the silk enddem of our beloved country that was given me by a dear one at home to erect over Franklin's grave. The schoolmaster, finding in " Iloss's Second Voyage " some Esquimaux verses, first read and then sang them most admirably. During the whole evening unbounded liappiness reigned on hoard. Several presents were made, especially to the school- master's Avife, who received them with much modesty and pleasure. At length the party broke i p, wh.ii our visitor.^ departed for the shore in their numen.us kyaeks and family boats. On the 18th of July occurred the sun's eclipse. The view in Holsteinborg Harbour was fine, though a ]).irt of the time it was obscured by cioxuls. Tlu; Esquimaux were generally out looking at it with ])ieces of glass dippal in water ! A singular fact in coimexion with this eclipse was told me l)y INIate Eogers. He said that " during it he and his party could catch no fish, though before and after it there Avas abundance cdjtained ! " In tlie afternoon it began to blow a gtile, and at the time nearly all hands were away on some duty or otiier. Mate liogers and men wei'e catching cod in Davis's Straits, and only Captain I> , myself, and the young seaman, John Brown, Avere on boanl. The vessel began to drag'+i'er anchor, and, though we contrived to drop another, yet we were within a stout/s throw of the rocky coast before she again held on. The three of us worked for our lives. John Brown put forth the strength of a giant, and myself and the captain did the »vi m^^.- (if p4. ¥f til n h^ ''I ) ?■ Ml ' [!. it I 72 1,IFF, WITH TIIK I'^QUIMAUX. same. I^rcautimo our crow tm .slum* had liaslciieil ofi" in a boat, and the jovoi'iior had, in the umht of the j^ale, kindly sent another l)oat, ■with his superintendent and men, to our assistance. These enabled iis to nialvo all secure on board ; but our anxiety now was no lonL;er for the ship, out for Mate lingers and those with him otit seaward in Davis's Straits, ll seemed impossible that any small craft could su .vive in such a storm. Our chances had been doubtful, e^en in a good harbour ; what, then, had we reason to expect for the fate of those in a boat ourside ? We felt dismayed, and eagerly were our glances bent in the direction our poor comrades had taken in the morning. Every glass was in requisititm to catch a sight of them, but only the mimntain waves dashing against the rock-ribbed coast, and seiuling their spray full fil'ty feet in the air, met our \iew. At last Captain 1) , who was aloft, cried out, "There they come ! there they come!" and, sure enough, we now saw them at a distance, struggling bravely, ■perse veringly, desperately, amid the roar and fierce turmoil of t le wild sea threatening to ingulf them. I'resontly they en.'rgi' from the confused mass of waters, and we behold them more distinctly. Oh, how they seem to strain each nerve I How desperate their all but Herculean eflbrts to try and save themselves ! One moment they appear to be lost ; the next we notice them again struggling on as determinedly as ever. '• ruil. pull, for dear life's sake, my good men!" was the iiivoluiilavy cry of each on boaril ; and right bi'avely did they pull. On they came, thrown about and driven about in tlio very maddest of revengeful sport that Ocean and Wild Storm could devise. At length they near the ship. A few stroke?! more — a w(!ll-dire(;ted movement of the sti!ering-oar, and our beaten and exhausted comrades are alongside ! Hurrah ! thank (Jotl, we have them safe on board ! It appeared that the gale had overtaken them suddenly, and at first they ,'.ttempt(!d to land upon an island, but this the breakers would not adnut. There was no alternative, Uuae- fore, but to make for the shi]) as best they could. In doing sn, a heavy sea struck the lioat, overwelming it and them. lUit CUltlOUS KS(.)UIMAUX FEAT. 73 now wiis tluj tiiiu^ for trial of the will and arm of man a^'ainst Aviuds and waves. IJravu soids wore in that boat, and ^Fato Eogers proved liinisclf fully cijual to the occasion. The boat was cleared, find stern, liold hearts deliantly ])ulh'd her onward to the ship, which they linally reached, idlerly worn out hy their fearful exertions. Xow that they were safe, all their l)()wer was gone. A child could hav(; overpowered the whole together. AVet, cold, and enfeehled— their case re(iuire{l ini- iiii'diave attention. Dry clothing, warnuh'inks, and stinndants Avure at once supplied ; and thus, with careful treatment, they soon recovered. At 10 I'.^t. the gale liad died away to a calm, and we all retired to slecj), completely exhausted with our bodily and mental labours of the past few lionrs. About this time I enjoyed a rare sight. One of tlie Estjui- iiiiUix turned summersets in the I'vtcr scatal in his hjach ! |i' Vj^^^^'i ;,,'.- tf-;^..' ESQUIMAUX FEAT — A SUMMKRSET. Ov(>r and over he and his kyack went, till we cried " Enough !" fuul yet h.c v:d onli) Ms hands and face! This is a feat ])er- iiirniud only by a few. It re(|uires great skill and strength to do it. One miss ia the stroke of the oar as they pass from the centre (when ihtjir head and boily ore nnder water) to the h A I ■ IH'' ili ■i! a i ' *, I n ii !4* .M^ I .itf- H^ 74 I.IFi; WITH TIIK ESQUIMAUX. surface miglit tcriiiinatc fatally. No one will attorn])! this feat, however, unless a e.()iii])aiii(in in lii.s kyaek is near. Tlii^ ne.xt feat I witnessed was ior an Ivsquiniaux to run his kyack, while seated in it, over another, (lettiiij,' some distance off, he strikes briskly and jiushcs forward. In an instant he is over, luxving struck the ujjturned peak of his own kyack nearly amidships, and at right angles, of the other. Thcso feats were rewarded by a few plugs of tobacco. The day after the gale we had a mishap on board that threatened to prove serious, and, as it was, it detained us some days longer in Holsteinborg. Our anchor.^ fouled, and, in trying to got one of them, the windlass gear broke. At this time our deck was crowded by the ercws of both vess(!ls, and Esquimaux men, women, and children, besides some dogs T had purchasetl for my future sledge travelling. These together presented a remarkably stirring picture, while the howling of the dogs, the sailors singing in chorus as they pulled on the ropes, wiMi the varied voices of Americans, Esquimaux. French, D'^uish, and Dutch, made a confusion of tongues son\ew!i;!t akin to I'abel. By noon all attempts to get the anchor, now the windlass was defective, proved vain. It was therefore decided to call upon the governor and ask him for his blacksmith to aid our Sterry in repairing the gear. Permission was instantly granted; but the injury done was of such a nature as to require days to make it good. The following day, liowevev, we succeeded in hoisting u]) our faithful anchor, and it was then determined, as soon as the windlass was ready, to sail for the west or opi)osite side of Davis's Straits. While pulling on the ropes side by side with Esquimaux, I was strongly reminded of the opinion many civilized persons liave of their savage and cruel nature. Why, instead of that, they are glorious good fellows. As for eating a man up, they would sooner let a hungry man eat them out of all, without saying a word, unless it was, " Welcome, stranger ! as long as I have, you shall share with me." This is just their nature. The time T was at Holsteinborg I saw much of the inhabitants, ESQUFMAUX DOOS. 76 nnd my opinidu as lu tlicir lioiicsty, good-nahiro, gooil-w ill, mid goiiuiiio hospitality is stroiif^ and uuiiiixod. Tlicy ])nss('ss tlu'so virtvios to an cuiiiiciit dcj^rco. The vices so proininciit and prevalent in more civilizeil eommunities are all 1mt tiu- kiiowii here. The test they were put to on board the Gnov/c llcnri/ was enouj^h to satisfy any man that they are honest. Numbers of Kscpumaux, of all ages and of both sexes, were almost constantly on board, yet not the sliyhti'st thing was missed by any of us. We never thought it necessary to "keep an eye" on this or that, though their desire for any of our trinkets was ever so great. Wherever wo jdaced an article, there we found it. Among other incidents well remembered of my stay at llolstcinborg, I must nijt forget the ganhni attached to (idvernor Elberg's house, lie was very proud of this garden, though there was but little in it. One evening ho tcjok mo there. The radishes and turnips looked ilourishing, but they were diminutive in the extreme. Those I tasted were good. I relished them exceedingly, tops and all. I have mentioned purchasing here some dogs for sledge- work. They were six in nundjer, and the governor kindly gave me his experience in selecting the best animals. I 1)()ught the six for about ten Danish dollars, equivalent to five dollars American. As these ilogs will be frequently idluded to in my narrative, I here append a list of their Green- land names: 1. Kitif/o; 2. Barhdarh ; 3. Ei — pronounced Ec ; 4. Mc-ln]c-tm'—i\\(i leader ; H. Mc-rok ; 6. Mv-Wc, or Ki- (i-hio-Iilc, afterward called Flam. For their food I purchased over two bushels of little dried fish ("capelins") for twenty- five cents. At length the repairs of our windlass were complete, and on Tuesday, July 24th, a fair wind gave notice we were about to take our de[)arture. Two ]iilots — Otto and Lars — came on hoard, and as some of our men had gone ashore, the colours were hoisted for their return. All was excitement. IVIy letters for home had to be finished, and my last farewell uttered to kind friends. ^ 1 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) I. // ^/ .^ V^4 i 1.0 I.I 11.25 1^ I2i£ III 2.2 ^ 1^ IIIIIM 6" V] m m^y ^M J^ 7 ,^/ ^ Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 MIST MAIN STRUT WiBSTH,N.Y. 14580 (716) •72-4503 V 1 ' \ 76 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. I I I H !4 ) .i li|- 1 III I lE 1 I 'M \i -( ; it I ■ i if '!'■ j. ,: "h 1 1 80 LIFE WITH THE ESQUUFAUX'. the cup roiuaiiiccl in its position ! Tlucc halt- reams of paper, that had been placed securely over my bunk, and had tlierc rested quietly all the i)revious part of the voyage from New London, were found scattered over an area of say seventy- live feet. One heterogeneous mass presented itself to all eyes in the morning. jNEedicine-chest and contents — guns and ammunition — my arctic library and the library of the Gair/jr Ilcnvji — geological and ornithological, cetaceous and florul specimens — sailors' chests— magnetic and astronomical in- struments — pens, iidc, and paper, charts and maps, &c. besides two human beings — the cai»tain and myself — wrapped in deep slumber by their side. But soon out of all this chaotic mass we produced harmony again. Things got into their places ; and I, by degrees, mastered my sickness, and was the man once more. On July 27th we had a heavy snow-storm, and soon after- ward the land on the west side of Davis's Straits Avas seen, the mountains covered with snow ; but, owing to frequent fogs (sometimes it seemed to ruin fog) and unsettled weather, we could not near the Gconjc Hmrij's destination, which was now changed to a place more south of Northumberland Inlet. We came across Init litth; ice, except herfjs, and frequently expressed nmch surprise at it. The icebergs, however, were numerous, and many of them deeply interesting — one espe- cially so, from its vast height and odd shape. I say " odd," though that applies in all bergs, for no two are alike, nor does any one seem long to retain its same appearance and position. The following is a sketch of one I called the Belted Iceberg; but ice movements are as mysterious alnmst as the magnetic pole. The captain told me that he had known two vessels to bo beset near each other in the ice, and in a few d^iys, though the same ice was around each vessel, yet they would In' many miles a])art ! IJergs have been known to approach and recede from each other in as boautilid and stately a manner as the partners in the old-fashit)ned, courtly dances of years gone liy. Of the various bergs I particularly noticed, a few descriii- API'EARANCKS OF ICEBKIUJS. 81 tivo words may lievc be siiid. The first view oC one tliat aihacted my attention looked as if an old castle was before me. Tlie ruins of a lul'ty dome about to fall, and a portion of an arcluMl roof already tumblinu' down, were cous])icuous. —■■^ ".. HKLTKD IfKllKIUl Then, in a sliort time, tliis elianged to a i)ictun of an ele]iliant with two large circular towers on his l)a(k, and Corinthian spires springing out I)oldly from the broken mountains oi" nlabnster on whicb he had placed his feet. TIi(> third view, when at a greater distance, made it like a light-hniise on the top of piled-up rocks, white as the driven snow. It took no great stretch of fancy to finish the similitude when the sun to-day, for nearly the first time during a week, bur&t fijith in all its splendour, l)athing with its Hood of gulden fire this towering iceberg light-house ! Another beig 1 could not help calling the Gothic iceberg. The side facing me had a row of eomph^te arches of the true (iothic order, and running its whole length were mouldings, Vol. 1. U !^ 82 UVK WITH TIIK r.Si.illMAlX. sniootli prdjcc'tioiis of solid ice, riviilliiijj; in tin- Itruuty nl uU their parts anything I cvov saw. Tlio architecture, frieze, mul cornice of each column sujiporting (he arches above weiv as chaste and accurately repnvsentod as the most imaginativi' 1 i ;,/ 1; ■ (iOTIlIC ICKUERO. genius could conceive. Here and there I saw matchless |i(r fection displayed in the curvature of lines about some ni its ornanu'ntal parts. Springing out from a rude reees> away up in its vast height, 1 saw a delicate scroll, which \\u- quite in keeping with Hogarth's " Line of Ueauty." As I was gazing upon one of the many bergs we passed, ii overturned, and burst into a thousand fragments ! llelative to the formation of these icebergs, Steiiy — u|)iiii whose authority alone I mention it, and who is entitled i > his own theory upon the subject — told mo that, at a plan between two mountains in Northumberland Sound, he oiii' counted something like a hundred strata of ice that Iiin been deposited, one layer each vear. They wei'e of varioii thicknesses, each course marked liy a deposit of sedii/n i; like dirt. lie; did not comjjlete counting (he nundjer ni Liyers, as the height would not admit of his doing so. (")n our way across Davis's Strait, not f\ir from Cape Miic,\ w(> passed the spot where, in IS."))!, tlu' lU'itisli dii^^coMMV-^li , ( ■•! IlK.M Tini. SCNSKTS AMI MOliNINt! SKII'.S s:5 Hisn/i'f,' liiiil lu'i'ii ruuutl by tlio very vcssol 1 was now mi, I lie limn/c Ifciiri/. I have just been describing tlie beauty of iceberys as seen (III our way across ; let me now attempt to picture some ol' those "^orj^eous sunsets nnd phenomena of Nature we wit- nessed. I extract I'roni my diary at the time : — "Jiili/ 28///. — Tliis evening- the wliole horizon lias ])rosenteil ii most hoantil'ul sight. A zone of rich mellow ])Urple, with iiiatcliK'ss tints darling upward to the lieight of .some thirty ilegrecs, met the eye. Theij all at oneo, as the .snn di.sa])- liL'ar('(l, the purple was replaced by a deep Itlui'. As to the •lints' of which I write, I am at a loss to describe them, Take a thousand rainbow.s — stretch them around the horizon — intoriaix them — entwine them — sjtin and twist them together, and you havi! the appearance of tho.se tints crowning that zone, first of purple, then of blue. ".//'/// ol.s/. — Strange sights to-night. Looking through my marine glass to the north-east, wlien the sun was about three degrees above the horizon, I was astonished at the view belorc! mc. ^bmutains, islands, icebergs, and the sea were in one vast confusion. From the sun northerly to the soiith- ciist, wherever I turned my gla.ss, confusion worse than things confounded met my sight. A little reflection, however, brought me to a realization of the fact. The extraordinary :i]>pearancc of every thing at and beyond the horizon was I'rom ' refraction,' so called. "We speak of this and that 'looming np'at home, Imt little did I think what it signified until this niglit. !Mouu- taius far di.stant — mountains whose true position was consi- derably below the horizon — were now considerably above it, and icebergs dangling from their tops ! This refraction ? It was Nature, turned inside, out! Nature turned toiysy-turvyH N\TUi!E ox A Spree ! ! ! Yes, Nature on a spree ! "As I went forward I was mc^t by many of tlie crew (those now on their first voyage to these regions), who called my attention to some icebergs ahead that looked just like ' Bunker's Hill ^Monument,' oidy much higher. A few H I Mil r I"' I 84 LIFK WITH Till'. r,S(^lTIM.\U\. iiioiucnta before, I had noticed tlicse b^^r^'s as mere i)igmie.s, N(t\v the pi<,nnies liad lincnine "iants ! 'Nature on a spree' hnil i^iven to mere siiKwliiills on llic huri/uii all the beauty and syninuitry of ' liunker'n Hill Nfonunient/ running hi;;li up, in ahibastor eoiunins, to prop the a/uro sky ! "Soon the moon came rolling up; and uhat a j>/(«.s>' or face it showed, with its woefully distorted countenance ! 1 took my Nautical Almanac for the year (18G0), and there found, 'August 1st,' the sign for Full Moon! The large round eircle stared me in the face. J'liere couhl be no mistake. A nio;tn ' as big and round as a cart-wheel ' — as we boys useil hi I ? I ' i IXMToltTKU JluuN. to say — should be the aspect of fair Luna in the heavens this night. But here was the rising moon ' up to time,' yd where was the full moon ? The moon as it ought to be was a moon somewhere else, not here ; for, as it ascended above the horizon, its lower lind) was like a crushed hat, thou as a drunkard's face — fiery red, and swollen out to its utmosl limit of expansion ! Sketching as it then appeared, tlio preceding may give the idea, so unnatural was the goddess as she arose from her ocean bed to-night. But this, however, did not last long. A few moments sufficed to cany her upward in her regal course beyond the influence of ' Nature on a spree,' and a short time afterward, as I looked again, I found " ' How raliiily gliding through tho dark bluo sky, The miJtiight moon drsci'iuls.' t 1 I'^lVI. B ])igmies. 1 a spree ' 10 bciiuty ning lii,uli I jihihic or ce ! 1 took lovo fouiul, I'jfe rouiul inistuko. boys usi'il he heavens to time,' yet it to be WHS 3nde(l above d hat, thou its utmost )])caretl, tlio the goddess lis, however, o carry hcv ! of ' Natiuv )okcd again, ■; t''^ REFRACmoy. 8;"» " Aiii/ust Gth. — Going on deck this morning, fonnd Nature ii.Ljiiin on a spree. 1 have been observing its working for two IionrH. 1 will record some of its phenomena. "■\Vlien 1 first observed tlie unnatural appearance of the bergs, sen, and islands toward the soutl^vest, the morning sun wiis ten dfgrces high, and shining briglitly. The barometer then stood 29"3u inches, the thermometer 41", wind blowing moderately from south-west. Looking to windward, I saw tlie top of a distant berg ; then all at once a snow-white sjjot, not larger than a i)in's head, appeared in the clouds hanging directly over the berg. In few seconds it enlarged to the size of an Egyptian pyramid inverted. At every roll of the vessel this resplendently white pyramid seemed to descend and kiss tlie sea, and then as often ascended again to its celestial throne. " Dioptrics, the science of refracted light, may satisfactorily account for all this, but I very much doubt it. Some land that was seventy-five miles distant, and the top of it only barely seen in an ordinary way, had its rocky base brought full in view. The whole length of this laud in sight was the very symbol of distortion. Tendent from an even line that stretches along the heavens was a rithje of moiintmns. 'Life hangs upon a little thread,' but what think you of mountains hanging V2um a thread ? In my fancy I said, If Fate had decreed one of the sisters to cut that thread while I witnessed the singular spectacle, what convulsions upon the land and the .sea about us might not have followed ? Lut Nature had an admirable way of taking down these rock giants banging between the heavens and the earth. Arch after arch was at length made in wondrous grandeur from that rugged and dis- torted atmospheric land ; and if ever man's eye rested upon the sublime, in an act of God's creative power, it was when lie arcuated the heavens with such a line of stupendous moun- tains ! I'etween these several mountain arches in the sky were hung icebergs, also inverted, moving silently and majes- tically about as the sea-currents drifted those along of which they were the images. In addition to all this there was '1/ 86 I.lli: WITH 'IIII'. FSiilIMM'X, •; ■! J'' i' n irri!/ of mitii; so il iiintcnivtl. tiir lit\v<»nil tlic nsmil hnviznii. Tliis Willi st'cnit'cl ixlivu with iiu'ny tliincurs (d' the iimsi fantastic lij^uiv.s that thu iiuafjjiiiatidii coiihl concL'ivi', and its ])('il)('ii(liculiir (.'ohiiuiis were cw.r plnyfiilly chitnuin^'. nli, liow exquisitely heitiiiirul wnn this (lod-iiiatle livinj,' wall! A thousand youthful I'orms of the fairest outline seemed to 1)0 ilancing to and fro, their white arms intertwined — hodios incessantly varying, intermixing, falling, rising, jum]»ing, ski]i- ]ting, hoi)i)ing, whirling, walt/ing, resting, and again rushing to the naizy dance — never tiri'd — ever playfid — ever light and airy, graceful and soft to the eye. Wia» could view such woiulrous scenes of divine enchantment and not exclaim, ' () Lord, how manifolil aie Thy works ! In wisdom hast Thou made them all ; the earth is full of Thy riches !' "Aiif/iist Sfli. — The sunrise this nun'uing was fine. Lonu heforc the sun came to the horizon the clouds were all a-glow ! They were in long, narrow belts, one overtopping another, tlic lower edges of all visilile and pendent, reHecting the crimson of the sun's rays. To attempt to paint the heauty, the gloiy of this scene, either by ///// j)en or by the pencil of any mortal artist, seemed to me like a sacrilege, (lod often shows to the world His power and goodness, but seldom does lie beautify earth for man to completely fa/ it is heaven before him!"" Our progress towards the harbour we wished to reach wns very slow. At length, on Jidy .'')()th, we were within three miles of " Sanderson's Tower," on the west side of entrainc to Northumljerland Inlet ; but as it was late, and the wiml nulavourable, we had to go seaward for the night. Tlie folloAving day head winds and calms still retarded us, and we were now also anxious for our (ionsort, the Ilcsnie, .she having parted from us a short time previously. The place we wanted to reach was called by the Esquimaux Ookoolear, now named by me Cornelius Grinnell Bay, the anchorage being in about latitude 68° 20' N. For several days we had been struggling against strong breezes, and on the 2d of August we had only I'')h;!4, 87 ;iIh>iiI si\ miles iiinrc dl" siiiit liiiiLj III iiiiikt' ; liiit n vrry lliick I'lii; iiu'aiii ciiiiii' nil, jiiid unco iiioro wu luul to stiiiul oil' to scii. Oil llir Mil \vc Wile iiiit I'lir iVoiii Oiikonlciir, and ncca- sioiiiilly linpi's lU'u.sc tliiit wo iiii,i;lit reach iiii :iiicliorfi,Ltii hd'orn iii^lit, I'liit it was ii'it so. A tlo/.cii times was tlic ship headed lor our liarlioiir, and as oi'len were wo liaHh'd hy tlu! lojf. Someiimes it woiUd disjierse, leaviii;^ the heavens l(ri;.;lit iiiid warm ; then woidd our j^uHant har(|Ui; be swiCtly plowinj^ llie ihcp towardu tlie wislicd-i'nr haven. Suddenly the loo- ai^aiu ilescundod, onvehipin^' us in the j,dooin of ui;:;ht, so that we could not SCO a ([uarter of a luih' in any direction, and then (luee more woulil the vessel's course have to ho nrrosted. So it contiiuied all day, and toward evening tho annoynnco was increased by a heavy gale. Of courso then! was no altov- native but to run olf the land to sea, and accordingly it was (luuo, The next day, when the weather moderated, wo made sail back toward our harbour, and at H P.M. wo wore uoav tho sanio |insition as on tho 4th, still more than thirty miles distant tVoni where wo had to go. Fogs tliiui i-ncirclod us, and thus we were till tho following day, whou more clear weather appearing, Odhm/no' was s"en, and ahead of us wore observed "Slcrry's Tower," " Rogers's Island," and "Sarah's Island." As we were standing in to tho laud, tho lir.srin; under gof»d sail, was discovered away near tho mountains. At this time a oircumslanco occurred that startled myself and all on board lieyond nu'a.suro. i v.ill ndate it from uiy jiiiinial as 1 lind it ro'/orded at the time. " TursiJa//, Ai'f/ii.sf 1th. — After dinner I had gone and ]icrclu'd myself up in one of the whale-boats hanging over the ship's side, for tho purpose of viewing tho mountain scenery as we |)asscd along, and also sketching. I had my marine glass with mo, and during an interval when the fog— which now and a^ain settleil u))ou us — disappeared, T swept the liorizou all iduud. As I looked (v^s7r/7//, my eye caught a strange; lilack sail, nirecting tin; captain and mate's attention to it, they e\amui"(l, but could not make out what it was. At length n 88 LIFE WITH THE ESt^UIMAUX. U » ■: ! (■;■ we decideil that it was a wlialo-boat with davk-coloured sails, aiul approachiuj;' iis. Nearer and nearer it came, thoiigli yet far oil"; for Mlieu I had th'st S(>eu it, refraction had made the small sails loom up hiji,iier even than those of a SOU-ton vessel. Hy this time every one on board was anxiously look- ing,' to the strange boat, wondering what it was, coming from a direction seaward. After watching it more than an hour, wc noticed that the sail was taken down, and soon afterward we lost sight of the boat entirely. In vain our glasses were ])t)inted in the direction she was last seen. Nothing could be observed of her, and many began to think we had been deceived by refraction; but at length the captai a exclaimed, ' I can now see the boat, though a mere speck. I should not wonder if it is one of my own left here on the last voyage, and manned by Esquimaux.' I looked long and attentively. At last 1 saw the flash of oars following each stroke, as the dazzling rays of a western sun fell upon the uplifted blades. I could see nothing else but these oars, and to me it seemed as if the rowers were pulling qiuckly — desperately. Tin; excitement now became great among us, especially as the distance decreased between the boat and the ship. Captain B thought it was an Esquimaux crew, and ^Mr. Kogers said the men were irhik. " As they neared, it struck me that the rowers — now to ho seen more clearly — might be some shipwrecked mariners pulling for dear life ; and to ascertain this, the ship was deadened in her way. In a few moments more the strange boat was near enough to make her crew out for white men, nine in number ; and directly they got alongside, a question was i^ut liy Captain B as to who they were. The sti'crs- man promptly answered, 'Crew from the Ansell Gihhn, nf New I'edford.' In reply to another question, he said, 'We are from the north, and bound to the south.' This was enough t(j satisfy us that they were runau-ays. " In a few minutes a ^iU'iety of rpiestions was put as to the number of ships, the whaling, ite. in Northumberland Inlol, where we conjectured the Ansell Gibbs to be ; and then the .•'» V ired sails, lioiigli yet made the a 300-t(jn usly look- niiig from I an lioiiv, aftei'wanl asses were ling couUl had been exclaimed, slioidd not ist voyage, ittcntively. dIvO, as the 'ted blades. ! it seemed tely. Tlu! dly as the Captain Mr. Eogers -now to he I mariners i ship was :ho strange Avhito men, a qnestion The stecrs- U GihU, of ! said, '"NVe This was lit as to the ■land lnl(>l, id then the X i i KU\AWAY SEAMEN'. 89 * ! ' inquiry was made of them, ' You are runaways, are you not?' The response immediately was, ' Yes, we are ! ' They then told us that they had left Kinriaite, in Northumberland Hound, on Saturday, August 2d, at H p.m. and had thus run the distance, 250 miles to where we met them, i'l less than throe days. The reason they gave for deserting their ship was because of 'bad treatment on board,' and 'not having enough to eat.' They explained about this, and added nuich more, which may or may not be true. At all events, they made up their minds to start /or the United States on the first chance, and this they did by taking a whale-boat, two tubs of whale-line, three harpoons and as many lances, a ' con- juror ' — that is, a portable cooking apparatus — two guns and ammunition, a small quantity of provisions, a few blankets, and other trifling things ; and this to go a voyage over a tem- pestuous sea, part of it often full of ice, and along an iron- bound coast, for a distance of say 1,500 miles ! However, there they were so far. One instrument — a compass — only for navigation ; no sextant or quadrant ; no one in the boat capable of taking observations had they possessed instru- ments; and without food enough to carry them on. The chief of this rash crew was John Giles, ' a boat-steerer,' which means, in whaling parlance, one who has charge of the boat and crew when out whaling. Only two of the company had ever been to sea before, and those two had been on whaling voyages to 'Desolation' Island in the Soutii Seas. They were all young men — Americans belonging to various places ill the Eastern States. "When Captain B had asked several questions, the chief of these unfortunate men modestly supplicated for some food, as they were all very hungry. This was immediately responded to by the captain saying ' Come and eat ; ' but at iirst they hesitated, fearing they might be arrested. But hunger prevailed, and, making secure their boat, they entered the ship, and fell to upon the salt junk and biscuit like hungry wolves. Never before did I see men eat with such avidity and relish. To them it was a feast, having had only i ', I • n m I, '•! WP ( ! m !M ^ I i 1« ,1 ; »i 5 I 11 II 90 I.iri' WITH TUV. I'XiUIMM'X. linir a l.tiscuit each niul mic sniall duck among tlio vlioli' mimlioi' tluviiiL; the past day. " I found tliat nothing would alter their purpose as to pro- ceeding on their des]ierate voyage. They meant to strike for York Factory in Hudson's Bay ; but on my .showing them a chart and tlu! course to Resolution Island, thence across Hudson's Strait to Labrador, this hitter course was decided upon, with tbe hope that fishermen might pick them up. " The captain kindly gave them some beef and pork, powder and shot, and a chart. To this I also added some amnmni- tion oad caps. " They remained with us about two hours, and then, after deciding to go on, instead oi' landing for the night (perha]i> MV T.AST SICHT OF THi: IIINAWAYS. f hey were si ill iVaiTiil of I leingcajjtured), they got into their Ixtal, and, with many thanks t) u.s, started on their perilous voyagi' I watclicd llifu) long as they passed away from us beudinu AI.INS. Ill,, slii|i : |i(.i Id ,i,'i't ■■^i.^'iii'd in iSiillnnl, ir./,.s/,v, I.TVAWVY ^^^•\■\I!'\•, 01 1 1(1 tliciv nnVS. Tt WJIS '.' I'M. wlu-ll lllcV (IfJCHil'd, TllC IllOnll was sliiiiiiig brightly in tlic, oast — ihc iiliil)a.stcv mountains ol' ifc were scattt'rcd about upon tlio durkuning Avators — ili(! craggy rocks sliarply cut their bhack profdos against the distant sky, and the winds were gently but C(ddly blowing in sad harmony with the occasit)n. As they vainshed from my view 1 said to myself, ' Will the civilized world ever see these desperate men again? It is next to a miracle if so. And yet what lesson do they teach me ? If these nine men can under- take such a voyage, and under such wretched circumstances, with so litthf preparation, wliy slionld not I, having far better means, be able to acconxidish mine?' 'For themselves,' 1 added, ' (iod be with them I 1 know not how just or unjust their cause may be, but I do know that human lili? is now at stake, and my sympathy goes with them.' " Bcl'ore I pass from this strange occurrence, it will be better to give the sequel of their history, so far as yet known, through t hioe of the wretched crew who reached Indian 1 1 arbour, Lai )ra- dor. The following particulars 1 gleaned at St. John'.s, .New- I'lnnulland, on my way home in the fall of lS(i2. It seems that a Captain Nathan Norman, who does business ill Lalirador, and is also a magistrate, encountered the survivors el' this boat's crew, and, hearing their tale, demanded from litem a statement in writing ; whereupon one of them, Sulli- van liy name, drew u[) an account, the original of which is in my ])ossossion. It was given to me by Eobert Wintoii, Ks(|. editor and proprietor of the St. John's JmiUji Nch-a, through ('. (). Loach, Esq., United States coiisiil at that place. The loUowing is a rcrhitim copy of Sullivan's written statement, made in the fall of 1861 : — " Jly iiinuc is John F. Sullivan. I left my homo in South Hiidlry Kiills, iMiiss. iiliout tlu' Ist of Miiirh, I860, for Hostoii. I rcmiiiiiod in IJo.ston until the '20th of the samo month. I ap|ilit'il at (liM'cn'iit olliccs for a chaiicL' to ship; hoin^f a stranger in the plaee, and a green hand, I found it verydillieult to ,!,'et ii herlh to suit me. At hist I got a little (liseo\ii'^iged, and that thiy siiiiied my name at \o. 17'2, (.'ommereial Street, I'ostoii, and leCl for Xew I'Mdriird, Mass. Next morning T shipjied to go aboard of 'he ship Ihoiiil \VJi\tii; then laying at Xew liedl'ord, hut to sail the same diiy mi a whaling ■miM' t'l I>iivi«'s Strait-;, to iw I'lui.' 1 >^ iiiniitli-;. ■X< 92 LIFE WITTI THE ESQUIMAUX. (: M »'' ( .1 " I loft New Roilford in the Danid Wd'xtiu- on tin; 21st Jrnvcli, 18G0. There were forty of us in the erew, uU told. "We liiul very rouj^li weiitlier for many days after leavinj,', which caused many of u.s to bo sea-.siek ; I suffered Irom it about three weeks ; after that time 1 l)ei.;an to roeruit. There wiis nothing haiipened of any conseijuence worth mentioning initil we passed (.'ajio Farewell, about the last of May. After that we had (juite a hard time, fork- ing the ship through the ice ; occasionally, however, wc made out to get liei- through, and came to anchor, July 0, ISGO. " We spoke many vessels going in. I will naine some of them ; the /fan- nihal, of New London ; the Black Emjlc and Antelope, of New lledford ; the A nsell Gihhs, of Fairhaven ; the Piuiirei; of New London. These vessels weiv iiiiehored very close to one another in the harbour ; the crews were at libcity sometimes to pay visits to each other ; each one would tell how he was treatcil, several complained of very bad treatment, es|)eeially the crew of the J/(sv7/ Oibbs ; they were planning some way of running away for a long time, but they found no opportunity till the 4th of August. " Aly shipni.ite, whose name was Warren Dutton, was aboard that day, ami heard a little of the conversation, and he joined in with them, and said In; would go, and perh.ips one or two more of his crew. He immediately eaiiii! aboard and informed me ; and he pictured everything out .so nice, tliat i finally consented to go with him. We had no great reason for leaving eui' vessel ; We could not comx)laiu of very bad treatment aboard ; all we eoukl complain of was that we were very badly fitted out for such a cold climate ; iind, after we arrived there, hearing of so many men that died there the last winter of scurvj', wc were afraid to remain there, for fear that we might get it. We thought l.iy running away, alsj, wo would be all right ; but we were sailly mistaken. " After it was agreed iipou to leave, ea(di one was busy making preparations for a start. I, with my shi])mate, paekeil what few things we thought winiM be neeessarj' into a travelling-bag which belonged to me ; we then crept into the hold, and filled a small bag and a pair of drawers with hard bread, aii.l waited for an op])ortuiiity to hide it on deck, unknown to the watch. At'tri' wc succeeded in that, we made a signal to the other crew that we were ready. It being Ijoats' crew watches aboard the Ansdl Cnhhs, they every one of tlniii left ; they found no difficulty in lowering away the boat, which after they iliil so they lowered themselves easily into her, and soon paddled under our liows; we then dro]iped our traps into her, and, taking with us two guns and a liltl' ammunition, got into her, and soon jjulled around a .small point out of si^lit of the vessels. The names of the crew that left the A asdl Gihhs are as follows : John Giles, boat-stcorer ; John JIartiii, Hiram J. Davis, Williaru Hawkins, Thomas Colwell, Joseph Fisher, and Samuel J. Fisher. " A 11 o'clock at niuht, on the 4th of August, we left the vessels in C'\iiii- berland .Straits, latitude . Li I ! 1 i! hi «f ;l ?! I < J , ! r'l if'. i i;' - ( • V i .V if '^ I:. 1'^ 04 T.lli; WITH Tlir, KSiH'IMAUX. it c'lu'i'idil iiwiiy lliu mast. W'v tiu'ii liiii in umlci' a jili, aiiil iiiadr a Ice. Aliuin liiilt'aii lumriil'lfr we laiiik'il iriy slii|niiak' ilicil (it'stiivvatioii. Tin- cviiiiii^' li • (lii'(l, Saiiiucl Kislici' proiposcil ti> tat liiiii ; lie toiik liis kiiil'c, ami iiit a jiiiic (ili'tlic tliif^li, anil lii'M it over tin' lire until it was itiokiMl. Tlion, next inuin in.L,', each one Ibllownl his cxannilf ; art<'r that the meat was tnkou oil' ih,' litincs, and i-arh man took a .share. We stoii])P(l hen- three days. AVetlicii luado n .start ; hut the wind hein^ ahead, we were oMic^ed to put haek. iln • we sto]p|ied Iw > more days. During that .lini<' the hones were liioken n|i small, and lioiled in a jiot or kettle we had ; also tlui skull was broken o|nii, the brains taken (lut, ami enoked. AVe then j,'ot n lair wind, but as \w ^oi around a |)oint, we had the wind very Iresh oil' shore ; we eould hardly niamim' the boat; ut last we drove on to an island .some ways out to sen; we got tin' boat umhr the lee of it ; but the same in^lit we had a liWj^r hole stove into lui IJeinj; unable to haul hei' up, we were obliged to remain heie eight days: ii was on this island they tried to murder me. " The third tlay we stopjied here, I was (ait as usual ]iiekiii. To add to our niLsery, it com- i;ii\vi'UK,iUA iiAi;!;iiri;. 9:. iiifiiciil h> I'liiii, iiiid kept iiji I'lir llii'cc (liiys ; it tlii^ii lir^iiii to siiou. In iliin iiiiscralilc comlitiou wo v.orr ]iirkiil iigi liy ii Imiit's i-rcw of l'ls(|iiiiM:iiix im tlio 'J'.Hli of SL'|iti'iiibpr, mill 1irinij,'lir ti) Okukc 011 llir :>il of Octolni'. Tin' luis- >ii)naik's iliil nil that: liiy in tliuir jioucr to liil)! iis iiloiiif, iiiid |iri)viili'il iis with food and clotliiiii;, then sent us on to Nain, wlicn^ \vi' met ' lln' doctor,' will) wan |ii(ki'd ii|) tUno days ludbri- wo wmv. Hi' n^jKirtcd that iiis roni- piinidU dii'd, aiitii[ipi'd with a ]ilanter, named >)olin Lane, lietweeu Nain and llojiedaie; the iliictor stojiped with John Walker until March, when he left for Imlian Har- lidiir; the remaining two, Joseph Kislier and Thomas Colweil, also stop]ieil with iilaiilers around Indian Harhour. Mr. Hi II, the a.neut at Kiliokok, kept two of us until wc could lind an op|iortunity of leaving; the coast. We Idt his place ahout the inth of July, uud 1 anie to Macovic, waitin;^ a chain 1; til .i;vt oil'. " ('a[itaiii Duntan has Iiecn kind enoiiLjh to j^ive nie a iiassa,i.. f (•S 1 ' it if I' 1) '■ M fi? ■I^;? 96 LIFE WITH TIIK ESQUIMAUX. covered approaching tis. They were six whalcboats, fully manned, iive belonging to a sliip called the Jilack Bor/lc, Captain Allen, and one to the Rcschc. As soon as tlioy arrived, quietly greeting us, they wheeled In line ahead of ouv own boats, and aitled in towing us in. An interesting scciio it was before and around ns : eight boats in line, pullin;:; the ship onward, with brawny arms at the orirs, and merry voices pouring forth the sailor's songs as measured and unifonn strokes gave even time to the movement ; the still waters df the deep bay, the perpendicidar rocks by our side, and tlio craggy mountains ovei-hanging our heads, their peaks reaching up as if to kiss the clouds ! At noon, August 8th, 18(i0, we reached our anchorage, and at length were secure in the harltour wo had so long Ihmmi seeking. The Rescue had anchored before us. K'UUBIiU AND !•! at9, fully clc Eofili', 1 ns tlioy eatl of ouv ing sccuo 0, pull in;:! Liul luony III uniform waters of 3, and tlio :s roacliiiig ClLVrTER V. IV'.//'(/ 1)1/ lite Ndlici's — firiif Acciiiint cf noiiir of f/iriii — A rery (njfil Wiumui - (h-hi-jdx-ij Xl-iiiMj — I'ljitrni) anil /lin lliirtrca Win's — Ebkrhidij iiinl Timkuu- I'lli) —KtnHiKjii's Wiifiiir, Kiit-ii-jiih-in, — " liliiid Ocmyi'" — luviii-si.'in oil, Shim — Aiii'oliili: iif till' Gi'i'i'iilndil Dnijs — lliuniifiil fii-i ai'rii — Ait Aliilmstcr C'livii — Ariiic Fiiiiil — F'rul Tiislr qf llcnr-meut—A Jl/iitil M'ni fJuriii/iinj a 'SdiUf (iiiil lUCiiilliHi VloUies — A.ifiiiiishiiinU crru.kil hij a Minjini. — xliil/ior's iiiinvir L'sciijir, fnmi Death — Ocu/uijiai/ Vluimdci- of the Rucks — JJejiiirtiirc fur niiil Ariicnt lit riehl lliiij — ^1 Vroixe la the '^Renvue" — Aeiimt id new Wilkes. I'liEvious to our anchoring, Capt.ain Allun, Mates Lamb and Gardiner, joined us on deek, bringing Avitli them an Esquimaux named UijatiKj, and othere of his tx'oplo, Sevcml women were also on board, dressed iu the peculiar costume of the West Land natives ; but not until wo had dropped anchor coukl I lb more than give a passing glance at these strange-looking figures. The excitement consetpient iipon arriving iu a new place was natumlly great on my mind. The land around me — its inhabitants, its nigged hills, its mountain tops covered with snow, all belonged to that especial p>art of the northern ri'j^ions connected with the ultimate field of my laboiu's. When, however, the vessel was made stationary, and the great; est excitement had abated, I could better examine our visitors, ami never shall I forget the first impression they made upon nie. It has been said by a well-known witty writer, now de- ceased, when referring to the Esquimaux, in au arctic book he was reviewing, that they are " singidar composite beings — a link between Saxons and seals — hybrids, putting the seals' bodies into their own, and then encasing their skins iu the seals, thus walking to and fro, a compound formation. A transverse section would discover them to be stratified like a rolly-polly pndding, only, instead of jam and paste, if their V'^i'. 1. " 11 I 'is r,i •111. Ill j I i 08 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. I )( I'/lJ I ti l/l !'• V: )\ i'. Inycvs wore noted on a pcrpondicular scale, they would rauije at'tev this t'asliion : first of all, seal — then biped — seal in tlic centre with hiped — and seal again at the bottom. Yet, singu- lar enough, these savages are eheerful, and really seem to havo great capacity for enjoyment. 'Diough in the coldest and most comfortless dens of the earth, they are ever on the grin, what- ever befals them. When they see a white man and his knick- knacks, they grin. They grin when they rub their noses with snow, when they blow their fingers, when thoy lubricate their hides inside and out with the fat of the seal, Truly, then, as Sterne says, ' Providence, thou art merciful ! ' " The above description must speak for itself ; but, without endorsing more than its reference to the good-humour of the Esfiuimaux, I must say that, whatever they may bo physically and socially, they are undoubtedly a kind-hearted, hospitable, and \\'ell-disposed race of beings. On my first meeting wth them, at the time I am writing of, in Cornelius Grinnell Bay, I was much struck by their peculiar dress and good-natured features. The women especially attracted my attention, ami I coidd not but think of old Grimes — " that good old man "— in his long-tailed coat. The difference, however, in the coats of these Esquimaux women and that of old Grimes is that they do not button down before. In truth, there is no buttdii aboiit these arctic coats. They have a long, neatly-worked flap behind, with a baby-pouch on the shoulders, and are slipped over the head like a frock. But a full description of their dress will be given in a chapter devoted entirely to the manners and customs of these singular people. Among the visitors on board when we anchored were a few who will frequently figure in my narrative. Uffarnff, who has been already named, was a very prominent character, and it seems to me well to give some account of him and his family, especially as the history of most all the Innuits I met is so full of strange adventure, and so indicative of their peculiar customs, that it cannot fail to be interesting. The particulars Avere gathered only at intervals long after my first acqiuiiut- auce with the parties. i I !'■ (iU-KI-.l(»\-Y Nl-NU(t. l»0 At the time of which I write thuve lived in tho neigliljour- hootl of my explorations a very ni,'ed and singular woman ciilU'd Oo-ki-jox-y Ni-noo. This patriarchal dame was horn on an island named An-nan-ne-toon, situated on tho north side of Hudson's Strait, and when I first saw her I helieve she coald not liave heen less than one hundred years old. She was an important personage among her people, and, as tho render will find, proved of much service to mo from tho kuow- loilge she had of Innuit traditions. Now this woman had been married to a man called Pier- Ivo-iu'.-mr-loon, who had also, at the same time, a second wife, roor-loong-wong, sister of Ookijoxy Ninoo. I3y the second wife he had three children, with whom we have nothing to do. But by tho former ho had eight sons and daughters, and at length died in a good old age, leaving his other wife to sarvive all her own children except the Ugarng already named. The progeny of this old woman was as follows : \st. A daughter, that died at its birth, owing to an acci- dental fall previously received by its mother while playing ball in the spring. 2d. A daughter, Ton-ycr-nud-loon, who grew \ip to woman- hood, a large, strong woman. She married a Piin-ma-in* or chief, who was considered a very smart Innuit. After many years she had by him two children, and at the birth of the latter she died. The infant was then allowed to die, because, as was told me, " it was impossible to take care of it ; " and two or thi-ee days afterward the husband also died. With regard to this woman, it was considered among the Innuits impossible to tell which looked oldest, her mother or herself. od. A daughter, called Noo-hcr-picr-umj, who was born not h\ from Newton's Fiord, in Frobi slier Bay. She married a man named Oo-yumj, and these were the parents of E-hicr-hing, a person who will often appear as a very important character iu my narrative. The mother died about 1852. Wi. A son, Ncw-tocr-hicr-vng, who married, first, a cousin of Ebierbiug's wife, the intelligent Tookoolito, by which cousin 11 2 ^.' I, ' / r ' ' . t i luu LUK WITH TIIK LSgUIMAUX. '.1 ' Wii^ ( il \< ■;' lit' liiitl 11 l)(iy ; secondly, a Wdiimii (.iillcil K-hir-lDn-Ltiini (" I'olly," an \vf iuiiiiimI Iut), by wlmm lie liatl iimuy rliildicii, will) all \iy(\w vi'iy fast and fat, but dii'd ynuii;,'. lb' died bclbvo his wit'o, and she then nuuricd a line, bnld, and — In white I (Tsons aswi'll as his own iti'dplc— most kindly disposed, hniiiaiK! man, christcnod by ns "15ob" — his Inimit name, Kiiiif-ini/.r/ii-inii/. Tlu! wil'c was a hall'-sistt'i' to another ^immI bnt alllicted man, called rmi-lno-yev, or, as I always atyli^d him from his loss of sif^ht, " l>liiul Ocoviie." Of him I will s])cak presently. Till! tifth child of the old woman Wiis Ui/ttnii/, whom 1 shall brinj^ forward in a moment. The sixth was a daughter, An-ncr-sin-iuj, who married Mik-c-lumf. They had two or three children, but one of them, E-tcr-loonif, a litth; boy, cross-eyed, was almost always by his grandmother's side, anil was evidently re^'arded by her as a pet. The seventh child was also a daughter, Kuud-loo-tonn, who married a br(»ther of one "Chummy" (a man that visited tin' States in ISGl-'J). By him she had two children; one died young, and the other is now living and inarried. The eighth and last child was another daughter, Oo-yar-on- ye-iing, who married and had two children, a boy and girl. The latter was named Oo-kood-loar, and I was well acquainted with her. These were the children and grandchildren of old Oo-ld- jox-y Ninoo. Now let me turn to the account of Uf/nriif/. This man was born at or near Newton's Fiord, in Frobi.slior Bay, and was about 5(> or 55 years old. From his early days he displayed great qualities as a daring and successful hunter. Many of his well-attested exploits border on the incredible, so marvellous did they seem. Not a few, possibly, I shall be able to relate farther on. Perhaps, hoAvever, not among the lea.st of them may be considered the fact that lie had had no less than thuiecii wives ; and, at the period I formed his acquaint- ance, had three living with him. His first wife, Ah-chur-i- yon, ho left, long before .she died, because she bore him m' ISI.INU (iK.Dlti; nil cliildi'oii ; Iiis Mcroiiil, (hi-s,iii-/,i)tiif, ujivc liiiii ii soii niid diiugli- tcr; bntli, willi Iicrscll', dcnd, Tlit; third wilb was iilivc, but li I'l 111 i^/'//'7/. Al'tcnvanl hIic liiid two cliildivn Iiy aiiotlicr iimii. The fourth also liail I wo chihlivii liy another iiiau ; tho lil'th hung hersell' alter giving hint a (hiuglitcr, now 14 years old, The sixth — still alive, and relati'd to Tocdvoolito — liad 110 children; tho seventh was Kini-iii-n, whom I shall fre- (liiently uiune. She likewise had no ehildreii up to the time (if my last seeing lier; the . ighth was Koii-ininf/, who had two children by another man — tho children now grown up nnd married. The ninth was Kok-hoiuj, or Pim-nir, his |irt\sent second wife, but with no children; the tenth was Ak-rhnh-n'-shmi, who, however, left him and went to live with Koopcnu'iinfj (" Charley"), a nam I often afterward emi»loyed. The eleventh wife of Ugarng was Nih-n-jtn' {" Pol/i/"), by whom ho had a child called Mcnoun, abont three years (dd when 1 last saw it. Nilnjnr died while I was up there. She had been the wife of Blitvl George, already mentioned, but left him a f(!W years after he became blind. Ui/Knif/ was a remarkably intelligent man and a very good luochauic. Ho had several excellent traits of character, besides some not at all commenilable. In 1854-5 ho was on a visit to the States, and among his roininlscences of that visit he said about Now York, " G — il — I too much horse — too much house — too much white peojile. Women? ah! women great many — good!" I now bring forward another man, already mentioned, Pau- loo-yer, or '' Blind ( ieorge." Of his parentage there is but little known, even l)y himself, except that his mother hung lierself. He? was born about 1819, ami when young the Innuits took care of him. Ho grew up and became one of the first Esquimaux of his place. He was an excellent pilot, {,'rcatly attached to An- -ricans, and very desirous of learning their language. He UiurriiHl the Nik-u-jar already spoken of, and by her had t'uoe children. The first was born in the spring of , aid had black spots covered with hair on its body. It died before six nionth-i old. I i Ly 102 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. k t r I ^ ;^i i ■ }i In 1852-3 he became blind through an epidemic that took off very many of the natives. His second child also died ; and the third, born in 185G, was an interesting girl called Koo-Jmu-i/c/'. Kikujar continued with her poor blind husband for five years after his alUiction, and they were always attentive and kind to each other. But, as he was unable to work, she ac- cepted the offer of Ugariig to become his principal or /((mili/, that is, household wife. She took with her the little gul Koo-koo-ycr, and Ugarug became partial to it, and as he was a bold, successful hunter, generally contrived to provide for all his household, and even many more, without stint. "Geoj'ge," though greatly attached to his child, knew it was for her advantage to be with her mother, and thus allowed her to go, though occasionally seeking for her company with him. I shall frequently speak of this afflicted Innuit in my nar- rative, and therefore have mentioned these particulars. Another person to be referred to here is l^ok-er-jab-ir, the widow of Kudlago. She was born at Kar-mo-wong, on north side of Hudson's Straits, probably al)out the year 1814. She had had three hu,sbands, the first being a tall, stout man, called Koo-choo-ar-cliH ("Sampson"), by whom she had one son, Ning-H-ar-pinri. But this husband she left because he added another woman to his household. Her second husband was An-you-kar-ping, a fine, powerful man. He was lost by the upsetting of his ki-a.* When the ki-a was found it was broken into fragments, and it is thought by the Innuits that he had attacked a hooded seal, which, in return, ferociously attacked and destroyed him and his boat. By this husband she had one son, often mentioned in my journal as " Captain." Her third husband was Kudlago, who had also been previously married to a woman named Nc-vc-chad-loo, by whom two daughters, Kok-cr-zhun and Kim-mi-loo, Avere born to hinr The first of these was a pretty young woman, aged twenty- h i t Hi * Tlio GrccnlanJ term for a boat or caiinc containing; one man is Ky-ack, but among the Innuits I wa:i acquaintocl with Ki-a is the word, and md\ I hence- forth use. ,1 .1 KUDLAGOS WIDOW. 103 hat took so flied ; rl Cixllcd [ for five Ltive and :, slie ac- r /(nnil;/, little givl he was a de for all "Geoj'ge," IS for her ed her to th him. in nay nav- ars. -jab-in, the )-wong, on yc-ar 1814. stout man, he had one (Bcanse he d husband as h)st by lund it was iinuits that ferociously ts husband " Captain." previously whom two •n to hinr id twcnty- lis Ky-ack, Init Isucli 1 hcnce- three, and married to Shi-mcr-ar-chu ("Johnny Bull"), who was always exceedingly jealous of lier. Kimniiloo was an interesting girl of about sixteen years old. By Kok-er-jab-in no children were born. She and her third husband did not get on hap])ily together. On one occasion this woman was nearly dead from a severe dropsical complaint. The angeko was then called in, and his wife's brother undertook to perform an operation for her cure. This ho did in the following man- ner : Ebierbing held Kokerjabin while the operator, with a sort (if lancet having a blade three inches long, stabbed her quickly and forcibly in the abdomen. Water poured forth copiously, and soon after this she recovered. At the time of my first arrival among these Innuits, several of them were in different places hunting and fishing ; but I afterward became so well acquainted with them, and was on such familiar terms, that they and others I shall introduce seemed almost of my own family. But I will now proceed with my own personal narrative. In the afternoon, accompanied by Steriy, Gardiner, and Lamb, I went on shore. There I visited several of the natives in their tupics — summer skin-tents. The honesty of this people is remarkable. I noticed on the beach coal, wood, four tubs of wliale-line, tar, oil-casks, iniucing m{ichine, coils of rope, trying kettles, harpoons, lances, &c. all left here since the prevfous fall, and yet as safe as on board the ship ! Another trait of their character, however, is not at all commendable. One of the first things attracting my attention, close to the tents, was the skeleton of an Innuit, or Esquimaux woman, just as she had died some three years before ! S1:aj had been sick, and was left to take care of herself. The remains of her tent — her skin hedding, her stone lamp, and other domestic articles, were still by her side. This inattention to the sick and dead is a custom of the Esquimaux, and, in another place, I shall again refer to it. When I returned on board, Kudlago's wife had just arrived. She had heard on shore of her husband's death, and at once, I d |! I ?l H i ■;=r KU LIFE ^YITH THE ESQUIMAUX. ■\''i i f 1 ^i- i / '( ; l>- with her son (the daughter not arriving till next day), hastenod to the ship. Sorrowfully, and with tears in h'3r eyes, did the poor Esquimaux widow, Kok-er-jab-in, enter our cabin. Ai5 she looked at us, and then at the chest where Kudlago had kept his things, and Avhich Captain Budington now opened, the tears flowed faster and faster, showing that Nature is as much susceptible of all the softer feelings among these children of the North as with us in the warmer South, Eut her grief could hartlly be controlled when the treasures Kudlago had gathered in the States for her and his little girl were exhibited. She sat herself down upon the chest, and pensively bent her head in deep, unfeigned sorrow ; then, after a time, she left the cabin with her son. The following day I again went on shore for an excursion up the mountains, " Captain," a lad about fifteen years of age, accompanying me. ]\ry dogs had been landed imme- diately upon our arrival, and now greeted me with much joy. Poor creatures, how they liked once more to bury their shaggy, panting bodies beneath the snow ! They skip, tliey run, they come and look, as if grateful, in my eye, and then bound a.vay again in the wildest exuberance of animal spirits. I have before mentioned some particulars of these dogs, and I now relate an anecdote concerning them during our passage across from Greenland. One day, in foediiJg the dogs, I called the whole of tlicni around me, and gave to each in turn a capdi)i, or small diicul fish. To do this fairly, I used to make all the dogs encircle me until every one had received ten of the capelins apiece. Now Barhclcark, a very young and shrewd dog, took it into his head that he would play a white man's trick. So, every time he received his fish, he would back square out, move a distance of two or three dogs, and force himself in line again, thus receiving double the share of any other dog. But this joke of Barbekark's bespoke too much of the game many men play upon their felloAv-boings, and, as I noticed it, I determined to check his doggish propensities ; still, the cunning, and the singular way in which he evidently watched •li i! . EXCURSION ON SHORE. 105 me, induced a moment's paiiso in my intentions. Each dog tlianki'nlly took hi>i capelin as his turn came round, but Bai'liokark, finding his shart eamc twice as often as his com- panions', appeared to shake his tail twice as thankfully as the others. A twinkle in his eyes, as they caught mine, seemed to say, " Keep dark ; these ignorant fellows don't know the game I'm playing. I am confounded hungry." Seeing my face smiling at his trick, he now commenced making another change, thus getting fJurc portions to each of the others' one. This was enough, and it was now time for me to reverse the order of Barbekark's game, by playing a trick upon him. -Accordingly, every time I came to him lie got no fish ; and although he changed liis position rapidly three times, yet he got nothing. Then, if ever there was a picture of disappointed plans — of envy at others fL-rtiine, and sorrow at a sad misfortune — it was to be found on that dog's countenance as he watched his companions receiving their allowance. Finding he could not succeed by any change of his position, he withdrew from the circle to where I was, and came to me, crowding his way between my legs, and looked up in my face as if to say, " I have been a very bad dog. ^'orgive me, and Barbckark will cheat his brother dogs no more. Please, sir, give me my share of capelins." I went the rounds throe times more, and let him have the fi.'rh, lis he had shown himself so sagacious, and so much like a rci)ontant prodigal dog ! Tliis dog Barbekark afterward again made himself remark- abl}' noticed, as 1 shall have occasion to relate. He shared all my labours with me, and was here as my companion in the States, until he died a few months back. I now return to air account of my excursion on shore. The day Avas bright and lovely when I ascendeil the moun- tain. r.(.'autiful crimson snow lay about by tJie side of large patches of the pui-er white, and as I travelled on, my heart felt as light and buoyant as the air J breathed. The scenery was grand and enchanting. Two or three lakes were passed, one of them half a mile long bv the same in width, with its % ! \ St ri 1 1 if 1 ». 7. K I; 1(>() LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. , ' 11 i i\ K/' I, il :f; nf> waters at a temperature of 38^ and as clear as crystal, so that tlio bottom could be distinctly seen. It had deep snow- banks all around it, and yet, to my surprise, musquitoos were floating on and over its surface, breeding by myriads, Some beautiful ftdls were situated here, walled in by huge mountains and their fragments. ^Many of these were enormous rocks, apparently capable of being easily set in motion by a man's power with a crowbar, so delicately Avere they ptjisi^d upon each other. The frozen waters of winter have been doing wondrous work in throwing down these mountains. If water can find a crack in rocks, they are sure to be broken asunder. The inventions of men give them easy power to split rocks that are massive and hard. This is done by drilling holes and entering steel wedges, which are acted upon by slight blows. Another way is to drill deep into the rock and charge Avith gunpowder. But God has His way of splitting rocks! He uses the little snow and rain-drops. They find their May into every recess. Crevices are at length filled with solid ice. They are enlarged ; chasms now yawn ; another winter, and down from their rude heights the cliffs fall, mo king tin; earth to (piake in her career ! There were many, very many rocks that would be cast from their places, high up the mountains, on the next spring. A person can hardly conceive the quantity of rock that is lifted from its base every season by the freezing of water. Never can I forget the visit I made on this excursion to the stream that runs wildly down the mountain's side, between the first and second lakelets, near Kow-tuJc-Ju-a — Clark's Harbour. For one-third of a mile the stream was covered with a luigo pile of snow. I crossed to the upper part of this with my Esquimaux boy, and went down to the stream itself to slake my thirst. I kneeled and drank of the sparkling waters. As I looked round before rising, what did I see ? a cave of alabaster ! snow-arches, numberless and incomparable ! At a point where several arches commenced to spring were i;'' FIRST TABTK OF BEAR-MKAT. 107 pendant finely-formed icicles, from which poured, perpendi- cular to the earth, unbroken streams of water, having the appearance of inverted columns of crystal supporting the arches. The number of these columns was great. Away, far down the cave, through which the stream passed, all was dark — dark as Cimmerian darkness. From this I turned my eyes upward. Overhanging my head were pinnacled mountains 1,000 feet above me. Far as the eye coiild see they extended. On my still bended knees, I thanked God that I lived to behold how manifold and wonderful was the world's creation. None but God and that untutored Esquimaux saw me there, amid the roar of that mountain waterfall, offering up this, my heart's prayer ! Willie there I gave the dogs some dinner (capelins), and then had my own along with the Esquimaux. A good appetite made me relish the sea-biscuit and Cincinnati pork, and then, after resting a while, I began the return journey. I had ascended to a height of about 1,500 feet above the sea, and two miles from the beach, making a collection of various geological and other specimens; but these latter I luitbrtunately lost. On my way down, a good snow-slide, for about a quarter of a mile, on an angle of 50', carried me swiftly on, and, in due time, I got back to the tents, where a score of Esqiiimaux at once kindly greeted me. Away from all the rest, seated alone among the rocks, I saw KiuUago's widow, weeping for the loss she had sustained. Her son at once went and tried to console her, but she would not be comforted, and her grief was allowed to have vent un- restrained. The next day we had for dinner salmon, venison, and bear- meat ! It was then I took my first lesson in eating tire latter. I found it passable, with a taste somewhat akin to lamp oil, but yet, on the whole, good. A few days afterward I made another excursion ; and as 1 passed on my way up the mountain steeps, flowers greeted me at every step I took, lifting their beautiful faces from behind the gray old rucks over which I was passmg. At 108 l.IKK WITH THE KS(,iL'TMAUX. ] f / t.i ioal si)L'cinK'iis, and n'turnod. Oil my way 1 again inct Kudlaji^o'.s widow and anotliov E.' rocks was very remarkable, and for s(;v< vn\ rods I saw a (piart/ vein ruimiiiu' as .straight as a line X.N'.\^'. and S.S.K. Its dip was (i()\ and in thickness one and a half t>^ two iiu'he.s. Everywhere arouml. the fallen ruins of mountain i stared me in the face. I was perfectly astonished at the rajiidity with which huge rocks had evidently bei-n rent \-f j-tone, the strata of which were complet(dy separated, so tliw' I could take them oil' one Ijy one, as leaves of ]ia])er. Some v^ere an inch, half an inch, two inches, and others six inchefi thit k. iVnxious to obtain .soiai' sjiecimens, I was engaged, with n.v knife, dig;.;!:",' out soiin' quartz and gold-like metal, slightly '^edded 'v a fresh-bidkcii m ^,aVj, DEPAIlTUllE FOR FIELD DAY. 113 11 Up Imiu ■lidltvs liiiil a tliundi'V- ter iiwiiy'. p, ami oiu' •k lip some a]»cv. Till' ".'.isi'ly likt' iit.xl to his (J'.'U'vally, 1^ lu) iiiatti'v rr tliat coin- I' all hour's V(' liim, iiuil lie burst I'd on luianl iC. :i(f(« T liail ;i rock lioforo mo, wluiii, as I leaned forward, the revolver fell Iroiu my belt, and instantly exploded dose to my hand and lace ! For the moment I thought myself dangerously wounded, so great was the ])ain I experienced in my hand and forehead ; but the next instant I ascertained that the ball had just cleared me, merely forcing the powder into my hand, foreliead, and round my right eye. It was a narrow escape, and a warning thereafter to be more careful how I left the luuumer of any gun or pistol I had about mo. The rocks about here were indeed very remarkable. Quo pile consisted entirely of mica, cpiartz, and feldspar; and the nearest a])proach I can give to its ai)pearauce is to let the imagination conceive that the feldspar was in a state like putty, and worked up into various \incouth figures, the spaces lii'tweeu each filled up with mica and cpiartz. Then would there be an appearance similar to what 1 observed on th(!so rocks, only that ages and ages should be added to cut out deeply the mica and quartz, leaving the pure (quartz veins nluiost unaffected. On the 14th of August the brig Giotr/iana, belonging to the sime owners as the Gcoiujc Henri/, arrived from some other whaling ground. Thus four vessels were now near each othin*, tlu' Black E<(;/li\ Gconjiand, Jicscne, and our own ; and a very Mieiablo and agreeable time was spent, during leisure hours, in visiting each other. But none of us were unnecessarily idle. Preparations had to bo made for the coming winter, I iind for wiiale-fishing while the season yet lasted. The Mark t'liijk and Gionjiuna had tlieir own plans, but that of the [(I'wv/t lliiiri/ was to visit another and smaller bay on the hmih side of this inlet. Meanwhile Captain Budington had |iiiited a stune and turf house for the beuetit of his boats' iivws, whoii, as was intended, some of the men should bo IMaliuiicil then! "to lish." The roof was made from timber, putli canvas well coated with tar ovin' all. <>u the IGth we sailed for Nu-gum-mi-uke, the intended ^nnter iiuaiters of the George Henri/ and JiescKc. As we lef liu hay — which 1 have named after my kind friend, Corneliu V"L r. 1 .111 -.;y i" I ' i I' \ "> i mil I lU I, UK WITH Till': i;s(,i| IMAL'X. llriiinuU — wo ixissi'il .suvi'iul imtiiiiiuiit pliici's, and iiinini:: them SttTvy's Tower. Tlir lul lowing is a «kutcli ol' it : — MTIIIIKV S TlittCll The next clay, in conqiany witli inany ol' the nativos we arrived at !Nu-guni-iui-uke (a bay that I named at'tn Cyrus W. Field, one oi the promoters of my expedition The Imrbour we entered was har 1 to find, but it was tlu)U;^Iii to be perfectly safe. Soon afterward the ship and her civw made ready for whaling ; but for niyf;.^*", I determined upon mixing unreservedly with the natives, and for this pur^io^' tried to secure Ugarng as a guide and compani(jn. I presoiitcii liim with a beautiful ivory-handled knife, given t(j nie \'}' Wayne and Son, of Cincinnati, hoping this would lead \'' good results. He was much pleased with it, and said, in Im own tongue, huoij-cti-na-mik (I thank you). Ugarng's wives were really good-looking, and ca]iit;il workers, chewing more seal, reindeer, and walrus skins t"i I • » A fid 1.SK IN TMi: '• llKSCfK. 11." ImmiIh 1111(1 luitloiis tlmii any other wouuai of tlic country, This clii'wiiig process will ]w described at anotlier time ; but I limy hero obsci-vo that, it is one of the prineipid modes ol" iimkiiif,' the skins ]diabki, (ind chaii<,'in<,' them into any desired Ibnii. It is a hibour always performed by teinali's, never by men. Tho Innuit women also M-ashetl clothes, and soon iK'oanio, so proficient that they could do them as well as Americans. One nioriiiii;f i gave my clothes to be washed by a woman cnWcdKufirrtoii, and by the evening she returned the articles to nie completed and in good order. Ugarng gave 1110 an excellent pair of native boots, made by one of his wive.s, ami, ill return, I presented her with some brass rings, which tlio women greatly prize for doing up the hair. Wishing to visit some of the innumerable islands that lay scattered about tho bay, and also place my doga on some place best suited for them, where the remains of a whale were Ibxuid, I took three Esquimaux boys "rid little Kimmiloo in the boat with ine to pull. I accomplished my errand, and, on the return, much enjoyed the '^ight of my crew, including the girl (all fresh types of the Irm. race of the North), smoking with pipe in their mouth, and, at the same time, pulling heartily at the oars ! On jMonday, August 2()t1i, after tea, tho captain, myself, Smith, Sterry, Morgan, and Ikiiley took a boat, and went out a ducking. The wind was l)lowing fresh from the northwest, tlieieforo we beat to windward. On the way we killed five ducks — a sport that Avas exciting enough, though not remii- iii'iative, five or six shot having to be expended in killing one duck. "While to eking, T lost my venerable hat — the one 1 punctured with a pike when raising it high in the air on top nf tho first iceberg I visited. On the 21st of August, at 7 a.m. the Mescne was got under way for the purpose of taking a party of us over to an inlet on the opposite side of Field Bay. It was intended by the captain to examine this and other places to see their availability for fishing depots, and I gladly took the opportu- ' ity of accom])anying him. I 2 !;i V 116 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX, H h/' CI Ijii i 5 V.^ ill. While heaving up anchor, an incident occurred that seized well to illustrate the character of the Innuit Uijarny. His third wife, Kun-ni-u, with the captain and myself, were at the windlass brake, and it was quite an amusing sight to behold us. Presently we had to stop for a moment, and, on commencing again, Kunniu could not quickly lay hold ; whereupon her husband, who was standing by, looking on with a sort of dignity, as if he were lord of all he surveyed, at once ordered her to go ahead; and when she grasped the brake, he turned and strutted about the deck in quite an inilopendent manner. Two boats had to tow us out of the harbour, owing to there being no wind, and we passed through a channel between two small islands that was probably never navigated before. One man went aloft to con the way, and I stood on the bow to watch fcr rocks under water. Several I saw far down — some at five and ten fathoms deep, and looking white and yawning ; but they were harmless, even had they been much nearer the surface, for the Rescue, only drew eight feet water. At 8 A.M. a light breeze filled the sails, and, taking up our boats, away we went across the waters of the bay. A course nearly due south was steered, somewhat westerly of Ijcar Sound, and in due time we approached the opposite shores, wheie some wild and rocky, but magnificent scenery was I)rosented to our view. At 2 p.m. we turned into one of tlnee or four entrances that led, by a safe channel, into a long and beautiful bay. On either side of us were toweri.ig mountains, one especially of a bold and lofty character, with its peak looking down majestically into the waters below. The breeze had now somewhat freshened from the N.E. and was sending us along full five knots an hour. Great was the excitement ; most exhilarati)ig the ^vholo scene. We were in waters quite new to us, and approaching Frobislicr Straits — then, at least, so believed by me. Our lady- Esquimaiix pilot, Kunniu, guided us safely on, but care ^\•as also needed ; Morgan, • therefore, went aloft to look out, and I ABPTVAI, ly NKW WATRRS, 117 again took my place on the bowsprit end. Occasionally a huge white old rock peered u]) its head, as if to ask, Wlio were we that thus .'liRturh'^d the usual quietude of the place, and unsettled the peace that had reigned during the world's age? But no interruption to our progress was made. We went on and on, creating the most joyous emotions in my Lrcast as we proceeded. My heart leaped within me as the vessel bounded forward. I had taken my glass in hand and cast my eye to the southwest. There I could see the extent of the bay was limited by a ver}' low coast, but beyond it were the high, bold mountains of Mda liworjnita, across the olden "Straits" —so termed — of JNIartin Frobisher. Though in the blue melting distance, and some fifty miles off, yet they seemed like giants close by. Then, too, the lofty hills of rock on either side of us, with the sun-glade, like a pathway of dazzling gold, ahead, made the picture beautiful and exciting in the extreme. It was my first visit and approach to the scenes of Frobisher's discoveries, and well might 1 be excused for the joyousness of my heart on the occasion. At length the schooner carried us to the termination of the bay, and in a few moments more we had safely anchored in a good spot, having four and a half fathoms' depth at low water. U i \ i II \ u I i .,W" \i CHAPTER VI. /, Virst Visit to Frohislicr Bay — " Mcta htcognita" — Fossils— Koo-jesse and hin Family — Old Arfarl-pnru — 77ic beautiful Kok-er-xhun — Skinning Ducks- Esquimaux Food — Native Mode of Sleeping — Inmiit Ilead-ornamenli— White Man's Grave — Esquimaux Grave — Inmiit Skill hi Geography — Aurora Borealis — Visited by Numbers of the Natives — Skill of the Women at Work — Trial of the ExpcdUion Boat — Ancient Dwellings of tfic Innuifs—A Mountain Pass — Whale cajdurcd — Greal Feast for the Natives — Author's first Trial at raw Whale-meat — Discovery of a Frobisher Relic. 1 :(, \ f* It was half-past four o'clock, August 21st, when we dropped anchor in this beautiful inlet, which I name after Eichard H. Chappell, of New London, Connecticut. We then had a hurried tea, and immediately afterward took a boat and went on shore. Our party consisted of the captain. Mates (lardiner and Lamb, Morgan and Bailey, bedides myself. Four Esquimaux — two of them being Ugarng and his wife Kun-ni-u — also accompanied us. On getting ashore we found that the neck of land dividing the waters just left from those of Frobisher " Straits " was less than a mile in breadth, and so low that, except in one [lart where a ridge of rocks occurred, it could not be more tlian a few feet above the sea, and possibly covered at higli tides. Portions of this isthmus were sandy, and the rest full of stones, rocks, and several specimens of shale, many of which I eagerly collected. On one plat of sand we observed some foot-tracks, Avhich LTgarng stated to be of reindeer, though such an opinion seemed to me ridiculous from the appearance before us, and so the event proved on the follow- ing day, Avhen we encountered some Esquinaaux who had been here. On arriving at the ridge of rocks, wliich I call " Morgan's Hill," and which overlooked the whole locality around, I paused a moment to gaze upon the scene before my eve. icsse and his ing Ducti— ■ornnmenh— Geography — !/tc Women at c Innuits—A vcs — A uthor's ve dropped Richard H. len had a boat and ain, Mates ,68 myself. d his wife id dividing raits" wiis ept in one )t ho more red at higli he rest full e, many of v^e observed )f reindeer, IS from the the follow- 10 had been " Morgan's around, I re my oye. II • r "i ii P ; / ti, ii I ■ 'i * 1 M: i m " HrETA iKcoasriTA." 121 There, facing mc, was tlio celebrated " Strait" — so called — dl' Frobisher, and beyond it in the distance Mcta Incognita* — tlms named by Queen Elizabeth, but termed Kingoite by the Esquimaux. Two hundred and eighty-two years previously, in that very month of August, the great English navigator, then on his third voyage, was sailing on the waters now within my view, and, after many perils from storms, fogs, and floating ice, he and part of his original fleet (which consisted of fifteen vessels) assembled in "Countess of Warwick's Sound," which I supposed to be not far off. As 1 gazed, how I longed to be exploring it, then hopefully anticipating if would prove the highway to my ultimate destination, King William's Lajid. But such was not to be. Disappointment is tlie lot of all men. IVIine afterward proved great ; and yet I have reason to bo thankful for what I afterward accomplished. I looked long and earnestly. The land on the opposite side of the " Straits " was clear before me, though at a distance of some forty miles, and it appeared as if a long line of ice or snow topped a considerable portion of it. 1 hastened from the place whereon 1 stood, and walked to the beach, where the waters of the so-called Frobisher Strait washed the shores. There, with spy-glass, I again carefully examined tlie opposite land. The same appearance presented itself. P)Ut not till some months afterward, \,l.en exploring up the " Straits," did I have positive proof that what I now saw was really an enormous and magnificent glacier, which, when I visited it, I called after the name of Henry Grinnell. Continuing with my glass to trace the land westerly, it seemed to me that the mountains in that direction united with the land on which I stood, and if so, no " strait" existed. But, as refraction at first was going on, I fancielligeut Es(|uiiaaux positivclj' a.saiirft/o, exposed to view an imbedded mineral the size and shape of a duck-shot, 1 tried to cut it with my knife, but it was hard as steel ; and no effect was made upon it except by scraping off the oxyd, which then left displayed something like bright iron. Unfortunately, 1 afterward lost this specimen by dropping it in the ship's hold. AVe got on board the Rescue about nine o'clock, and had a very pleasant evening in the cabin. The next morning we were ngain on our way toward the Oeorgc Henry. As we passed out of the bay, taking another channel, it fell calm, and two boats' crews were ordered ahead to tow. There was a strong tide running, and right in the channel some rocks were seen just below water. It was too late to alter the schooner'.'^ course, and, though every eff>)rt was made to get clear, yet wo sliould have been left upon those rocks had it not been for tlie swell of the sea and a good pull at the oars carrying us rirjht over them ! In the afternoon, while still towing, three ki-as, followed by oo-mi-ens family boats of the natives) filled with women and men, approached. On the present occasion, a highly- intelligent lunuit, Koojesse by name, was boat-steerer of one, while his family and other Esquimaux, with all of tlieii' connexions, their tents, cooking utensils, Sec. accompanied ■>s«i;3e««^**' '♦ OI.l) AllTAUKl'.vm;. 123 liiiii. As soon as tlicy reached tlio Unciic, all came on boanl, Koojcsso having with liini one of the finest Esquimaux dogs I liiul seen. Move dogs, deerskins, walrus heads and tusks, with abundance of game, such as ducks, &c., were with the party. Among the number now arrived was Ktidhif/o's eldest daughter, Koh-cr-zlmn, a truly fair and beautiful young woman, already married to a young man called Shi-mcr- (tr-cliu, otherwise Johnny Bull. She came alongside full of liope and happiness, expecting to hear of, and perhaps to meet, her father. Both herself and TanuMcrlicn, the wife of Koojessc, delayed approaching until they had made a change of dress, and then, when ready, on deck they came. Bu^., alas! how sad was the blow she had to receive! Seeing Kunniu, Ugarng's wife, whom she knew, the question was put to her, " Noii-H-ma vowj-a a-td-td?" — Where is my father? and when Kunniu, in a calm but kindly way, com- municated the painful news, it was as if a thunderbolt had riven her heart ! That face, a moment before beaming '.ritli hope and happiness at the thought of meeting her father, was instantly changed to an expression of deep woe ! Tears coursed down her cheeks, and, though the usual calm dignity of Esquimaux nature forbade outcries or noisy lamentation, yet it was evident she most acutely felt the sudden calamity. Hor Esquimaux friends, and all who knew her father, sympa- thized greatly with her, as indeed did wo Americans. Every thing Ai our power was done to alleviate her distress, but it was long before she got over the shock. In one of the oomiens there were no less than eighteen women and children, an old " i)atriarch " named Ar-tark-pa-ru, who was crippled in both nether limbs, but blessed with the lieaviest beard and mustache yet seen among his people — ten (logs, tents, reindeer skins in immense number, venison, seal- blubber, ducks, walrus heads and tusks, htinting instriiments, and, in truth, all the Avorldly goods of some seven families ! Having made fast the oomiens astern, taken the kias on board, hoisted the old man \ip by a rope, and allowed all the vest to mount as best they could, we soon had our docks ': !«' ^■i V 1 1 %' I I * I ! I '^ III r' 1 ' iv '■I i! f 4 f 'I , I f |ti i '; > • i ::i * PI' i ■ : ;fM i'^^ i'.i! 124 i.TFF. wiTTi Tiir. F^^orTM.vrx. crowded with nltont tliirty gnod-hiunourod nntives of all aj^o^ aii U r T E It, COMMANDER. Dreary was the scene around that solitary gravo, the last resting-place of one who was taken away in the prime of life, far from home and all who were dear to him. At the end of each line was rudely engraved a willow branch, a substitute for the cypress, which, in all ages, and in all parts of the civilized world, serves as a memorial of the dead. Straiigely enough, after an hour's walk I came across an- other grave, but thi-s time that of an Esquimaux. The grave 120 LIFE WITH THE ESuUIMAUX. •( 'V M: J , 1.1- 'i i was simply a stuoi) ledgo ol' rouk.s on ono siilo, and on tin; other long stones set up on end. Within this were the boiu's and skull of the deceased man. At the head was a pil(( of rude stone covering the utensils that belonged to him when living. Through the openings I saw a powder-flask, a little tin tea-kettle suspended over a blubber lamp, the knives wliicli he was wont to use, and other trifles, all placed in jx'rl'cct order. Beside this pile wore his seal, walrus, and whalinif instruments. The grave was without cover, that ho mii,'lii freely roam over the mountains and freely traverse the seas \u that world whither ho had gone. The grave was situated mi an eminence or bluff overlooking the bay, islands, and scenery far and near. As I stood by this grave the setting sun was crimsoning the whole heavens, picturing to my mind the glory that follows death to those who deseiTe it. After-inquiries that I made enabled me to ascertain tlic name of the deceased, which I found to be one Al-lo-kee, a man celebrated in his day as a great hunter, perseveviny sealer, and daring whaler. On Friday, August 24th, Koojesse made me an excellent chart of Nu-gum-mi-uke, Northumberland Inlet, Bear Sound, and lands adjacent — especially of the so-calLd Frobisher Strait. He signified his willingness to accompany me next season on my intended expedition, but declined to venture this year. Trade to-day commenced with the natives for whalebone and walrus tusks. Several polar bear skins had already been bartered. On Saturday, 2otli of August (1860), had a very interesting, and, to me, important conversation with the intelligent Koo- jtisse, Ugarng, and his wife Ktmniu,. The three of them were great travellers, both the former having been in the United States, and the latter was born at the " King's Cape " of Luke Fox, discovered by that navigator in 1G31. She had been ti) the Mda Incognita of Frobisher, and all along the north coast of that land, which, by her account (as clearly explained to me), was connected with the opposite shores, thus making Frobisher " Strait" an inlet or lay. Koojesse and Ugarng had mil on tilt; 3 tllO boiK'S 9 a pil(( of him wlu'ii isk, a littlu lives which ill JH'l'i'lVt id whaling c ho miglit the seas tn situatod (111 Liid scenery ig sun was d the glory certain tlio ! Al-lo-kee, perseveviiiji a. excellent Jear Sound, isher Strait, t season on lis year. whalel)oiio Iready been interesting, ligent Koo- ' them were the United le " of Luke ;iad been to north coast xplained to 1U3 making Ugarng had ■ If V \ 11 j jl r .■ , '! i 1 ! 1 . i , ! '' ". ^ i , [- i ir ! I > ' ; i ( 1 V ' 1 i: •1 ' • 'll i ' r if;' f ? «! I- 128 LIFE WITH THE KS(;UIMAL'X. nlst) vifiitod the liuitl retbrrecl to, ami each (tf tliciu dcclnrcd tlmt tlu'ic was iiu otlicr wiitur coiniminicatioii to what W(^ call Fox's Chaniu'l except through the Hudson's Straits. This I w as very desirou.^ of know iiijf more about ; and at my re(|uest Kuo- Jesse finished drawinj.; Ids cliart of the coasts, hays, and ishnuU from Northumberland Inlet to Resolution Island, and boih sides of the so-called Frobisher Strait to its head. The orij,'i- ual of this chart is now in my liossession, and it has alwiiys astonished me for its remarkable skill anil ^a-neral accuracy of detail. A fuc-simik of most of it is shown on the previous page, reduced to one-twelfth of its original size. The charts that I possessed of this locality were such as uiu- geographers at that time believed to be correct, and I pointed out to Koojesse the phicos about which I desired ini'ormatiijii. 1 showed him the route I proposed taking when I got up t(j about longitude 72", in what I had supposed to be Frobislicr Strait, but he and the others stopped me by saying, "An/l! (mji ! " (No ! no !) They then took hold of my hand, moving' it around till it connectcid with " Meta Incognita ; " then fol- lowing south-easterly the north coast of this land till arriving at the channel leading into Hudson's Strait, about h)ngitudo l!()° W., and, turning round, M'cnt thence up Hudson's Strait continuously on to " King's Cape." Of course the names which wo place upon our charts are unknown to the Es([ui- maux, and, conset^uently, I have endea\'oured in this work, where possible, to give both together. The knowledge that the Esquimaux possess of the geogra- phy of theii" country is truly wonderful. There is not a part of the coast but what they can well delineate, when once it has been visited by them, or information concerning it obtained from others. Their memory is remarkably good, and their intellectual powers, in all relating to tliea- native land, its inhabitants, its coasts, and interior parts, is of a sur- prisingly high order. In what they related to me concerning Frobisher Strait there could be no doubt, and at once I I'clt convinced that no ])assag(! existed in that direction, iluw- ever, this 1 determined to personally examine at the earlietit AUUOUA rioKF.M.Irt. 129 ipiioiimiity. ^foainvliilo I triiul all in tny powor to pcrsnado lunijrssc to go witli luo, witliout (Icliiy, to King Williiiiii'« Liuid, Imt in vain. Karlier in tliu season he woukl hnvo gono ; iiDW it was too lat(>. 1 luul, there tbic, no alleiiiative hut to wait until the following spring. At midnight there was a line display of the aurora horealis, oviMtlier aurora uustralis, tor the ilirection in which the li'dits iippcareil was nonfh, not north of ns. The haronicter stood a I ;i(ll)'); theruioTueter, V,2' ; wind, moderate N.W. and the sky "(■learns a hell." I took on deck two ddieate comi)asses to iilisci've if they would he ail'ected hy the lights, hut they were not ill the least. The display was really heautiful ; the .streams daiting up like lightning, and passing the zenith. Siiiiie hanks of light wen; so thick that the stars hehind were obscured, even those of the tirst magnitude. The following day we had a visit from Artarlcparu, who, 1 fiml, is hrothcr to AUokee, the man wliose grave I had no- ticed. Artavlparii had a single hrass hutton, as an ornament, l)eiid('nt from his skin coat. The ilevice on it was a hcc with cxpiimled wings, and the niotto, " Vuc ut clvas," A young man Esquimaux, whom wc called Napnlcon, from a rcsenihlance in features to I'onaparte, iised to visit us daily, (li'cssed in a hlue military coat minus the tail (which had liecn completely torn o(l'), and with a row of hig hrass huttons naniing over each shoidder and down in front. The device on these huttons was three cannon on carriages, with a crown fur the cre.st. Another comical sight was a fat Esc[uimaux woman who appeared among us dressed in an old calico curtain put on nver her seal-skin suit. The nund)er of natives now visiting us was very great, hut it was made a rule that all excep*^ a privileged few should h>ave the ship at 8 p.m. During tho ilay much trade was carried on in bartering for skins, walrus tusks, &c. One pair of tusks measured full twenty-six inches iu length. The skull of the wah'us is very firm and thick. Xu rille-hall would have the least effect on it. I have speci- mens that will show this. VOL, I. K i iJi 1: II h ' r, ' ' 130 LIFE WITH THE KSQUIMAl'X. i ^ if,' i \' i •: Decidedly the Esquimaux are a liappy people. As tlicy crowded our decks, I one day noticed about a dozen women seated and busily engaged at their work. Two were mending one of the boat's sails. Some were chewing ooh-yooh (large seal) skins for soles oi' Lmn-inffs (native boots), others sewing; while one was tending a cross baby. This little fellow, by- the-bye, was generally as good-humoured as the rest, but n piece of raw seal-blubber had disordered him, and hence his troubles(nne manner. It is rare to find an Esquimaux child but what is very quiet, and only on extraordinary occasions will they raise any cries. One Esquimaux lady, whose luis- band was as dark as half the negroes of the States, had a very pretty SGmi-whife baliy, looking true American all over ! On the 29th of August I thought it advisable to try my expedition boat, with a view to preparing her for the trip to King William's Land. Accordingly, she was brought in from where she was anchored near the ship, and Captain B , myself, and Smith entered her for a sail. She was found to answer admirably, and proved lierself of high merit in model and capabilities. Later in th j day I again went away in her with Smith and two men. \Ve piished outside into the bay. A fresh easterly breeze was blowing, and this gave the boat a good test. Two of the ship's boats were also out undiv sail, but we passed them at such a rapid rati; that it siirpriscd every one. Truly glad was I to iind my boat so good, and little did I then imagine she was so soon to be lost. On the 30th of August I went in an Esquimaux boat, with some of the natives, to convey across the bay, Annawa, his wife, their infant, and a son, besides the widow of old AUokoc, toward their home, which was at the head of an inlet oponin;: into Frobisher Strait. Koojcsse was of the party, which was comprised of fifteen persons. Wo left the ship at 9 A.M. and when about two-thirds of the way we landed in a bight of a large island. Here I saw an old Esquimaux settlement, and I should think there must have been no less than fifty huts formerly erected there within a space of 500 feet of where I stood. The Esquimaux " II ANCIENT DWELLINGS OF THli INNUITS. 131 do not make their winter halntatinns now as in the years when the huts I allutle to were built, the remains of wliicli were before me. During the last fmv years Esquimaux live almost entirely in igloos — " snow-houses " — through the winter season. Formerly they built up an earth embankment, or a wall of stouo about five feet high, and over this laid skeleton bones of the whale on spars of drift-wood, then on top of that placed skins of the seal or walrus. !A[any of the ancient em- bankments wliere we landed had the largest of whale skeleton bones placed " cob-house " style, and so incorporated with the earth as to keep the whole firmly and enduringly together. The entrances were serpentine tunnels under ground, with side walls, and roofed with slabs of stone. To pass through them oue is obliged to go on " all-fours." I noticed here a dog-sledge, such as the Esquimaux use in their winter excursions. It was ten feet in length, the runners of one and a half inch plank, and shod with the jaw-bone of tlie whale. The width was thirty inches, and the cross-bars fastened by strings of whalebone. Allokee's widovv had wintered here, and she at once bent her steps to the spot where she had formerly halted, and took from the ground a large pewter plate that had been left there. 1 asked her where she had obtained the plate, and her reply was " English " — thus probably obtained from one of the whalers. The use she made of this piece of ware was as a receptacle for needles, knives, beads, reindeer sinew for sewhig, iStc. After staying here a short time we again started, and ar- rived at our destination about one o'clock. There the Esqui- maux fanuly left us, intending to foot it for about two days over mountains, through valleys, and across rivers before arriv"ng at their home. But not only had they to walk that distai.ce, they had to carry a heavy pack on their shoulders ; and I was appalled when I saw the load each one took, especially on such a journey, without the least particle of food with them. Our return was made without difficulty, and I got on board much pleased with the exciirsion. On the 3d of September we were visited by an old gray- K 2 I, m 7^ ifi ; i fc/' . natives cutting up the ln\ing (meat) f)f tlie whale* into such huge slices as their wives could carry ; ' { • \ ■I'i'i ' TIk^ blood ol' this whale, ii .short time al'tur its iloiith, was lisiiif? lOO" riiUiiiihi'it. Koi-|y-ii;^ht Jnnir^ uliir, it.'- krang wa,'. ^till iiuili. wanu. ' t ? :: ■f^ I' n^ \ I-' I '.': Mil I' ^v iM'l i ' 134 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. and as tlioy workctl, so did tlioy keep oating. Boat-load after boat-load of this did tlicy send over to the village, whcvc st'voral deposits were made njion islands in tlie vicinity. All day long were tliey eating ; and, tliouglit I, " Wluitnionstnuis stoniaclis must these Esijuiniaux have ! " Yet I do not tliiiik. on the whole, tiny eat nioie than Avhite men. But the ([uaii- tity taken in one day — enough to last for several days — is what astcuiishes me ! They are, in truth, a peculiar pcopk'. " God hath made of one blood all nations of men to dwell (tn the whole face of the earth, and hath determined the tinu's before appointed, and the bounds of their habitations." Take the Es(|uiniaux away from the arctic regions — from the shores of tlie northern seat*, and they would soon cease from the face of the earth. TJie bounds of their habitations are fixed by the Eternal, and no one can change them. Thus those i)eople live. jNly opinion is, that tho Escpximaux practice of eating their food raw is a good one — at least tor the better preservation of their healtli. To one educated otherwise, as Ave whites are, the Esquim.aux custom of feasting on uncooked meats is highly repulsive ; but eating meats raw or coohed is entirehf a raaHer of education. " As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined," is aii old saw as applicable to the common mind of a people in regard to the food they eat as to aiiy thing else. "When I saw the natives aetucdiy feastimj on the raw Jlesh of the vhak, I thought to myself, " Why cannot I do the same ? " and the response to my question came rushing through my brain, inde- pendent of prejudice, " Because of my education — because of the customs of my people from time imniemorial." As I stood upon the rocky shore observing the busy natives at work carving the monster before me, my eye caught a group around one of the trdehnc, from which they were slicing and eating thin pieces of ligament that looked white and de/iciuns as the breast of a Thanksgiving turkey ! At once I made up luy mind to join in partaking of the inviting (?) viands actually smoking in my sigJit. Taking from the hands of Ugarng his seal-knife, I peeled olf a delicat ; slice of this sjiinal ligament, closed my eyes, and cried out " Turkey ! " But it would not ])lSC()VEUy OF A FROBISIIKIJ KELIC. 185 go down so easy. Not because the stoniaoli had posted up its si'iitiuol to say " no whale can come down liere ! " but because it I'-as (oiit/hcr than an;/ hull href of Christcndoiu ! For half an hour I tried to masticate it, and then found it was even tougher than when I began. At length I discovered \ had boon making a mistake in the way to eat it. The Escpiimaux custom is to get as vast a ])iece into their distended mouths as they can cram, and then, boa constrictor-like, first lubricate it over, and so aimUuio it quite loJiole ! " When you are in Home, do as the Romanf"' do." Therefore T tried the Esfpiimaux plan and succeeded, but that one trial was sufficient at the time. A day or two afterward I again went on shore to where a [lortiou of the whale's cai'cass remained. The natives were so careful of the prize that numerous piles of stones, covering deposits of krang and blubber, were seen on the islands around. This would seem to bespeak a lyi'ovident instead of an improvident trait in their character ; but I am in- clined to think the former is more the exception than the rule. One old wt>man kindly came to me anil offered a generous slice of the " ichale-ymti " she was feasting on. Keaching out my hand, with one stroke of her "ood-loo " (a woman's knife —an instrument like a mincing-knife) she severed the white, fibrous strip quick as thought. It cut as old cheese. Its taste was like unripe chestnut.^;, and its ajipearance like cocoa-iuit meat, but I cannot suy thio experhuent left me a very great admirer of whale's gum, though, if the struggle was for life, and its preservation dejiended on the act, I woiild undoubtedly eat wliahi's gum until I got something better to my liking. On September 5th, while takiiic a walk on Lnuk-uaf Island, half a mile south of the shi]i, 1 discovered a large piece of what I supposed to be iron mineral, weighing 19 pounds, and "in shape and appearance resembling a round loaf of burned bread." Circumstances afterward furnished me with many interesting particulars of this piece of iron, and ultimately I ascertained it to be au undoubted relic of Frobislicr's Expe- dition.' ■• \i r L CHAPTER VII. ! ' I Boat Iiicidrnt — Life hamiiiuj on a, S/ioc-s(riii;i—Coi(nnjc of t'sqinmaiix /?i)//.s'— Arrival nf the " Gcorijiana " — A at/ior's Sickness and Rccoverii — ^1 Itcnlina uj the Natives — A fearful Gale — The " AV,sc((c " and the Expedition llmil, wrecked — The " Gconjiana" on Shore — The "Georije Ilenrij" in ijniti Damjcr. .«' .: J» * t ' \ %V The incidents connected with my cveiy-d.ay life for some tinii; at this period, though never without novelty to myself, would, I fear, seem to present a sameness of character if too ol'toii brought forward in the disjointed form in which they occurred. T will, therefore, occasionally throw together several matters that refer to the same subject, though scattered over the next two or three weeks. Of these not the least interesting to me were the native Iiabits and customs as displayed in their Ijeautiful villages. I was never tired viewing them, and at every opportunity A\as on shore among their tuples — sunnner tents. At other times I would make an excursion to some of the many islands around the ship, for the pur])ose of exercise and collecting specimens. I took one or more of the natives with me generally, and, on a certain occasion, the following inci- dent occurred : — In the morning of Septendier 8th, I went over in a boat to an island. I had with me a little " one-eyed " Escpiimaux companion, and, after about three lioxirs' ramble, we returned to the landing only to firul the boat entirely out of our reacli. The tide had risen so much that apju-oach to it was quite out of the cpiestion. The fastening of the boat was to a rock now far out, and beneath the waters ! Here was a dilemma. Wliut was I to do ? The dashing waves threatened every moment to sm-ge away the boat ; and if that went, and we were left upon that solitary, barren island Ibr a night, the probability was wo BOAT ADVENTUIii:. VXt .■^liuiild both suffor greatly. There was no otlier way of getting oil' but liy the boat, and the tide was still fast rising. For a tiino I was puzzled what to do. But, as " necessity is the iiiutlier of invention," T at length bethought me of a plan. If I iiad a line long enough to allow of a stone attached to it liL'ing thrown into the boat, all would probably be right. But I liiul no line. What then could I do ? Presently an idea struck me. The telescope-case, containing a spy-glass (which swung to my side), had a long leathern strap. jNfy marine (opera) glass was also [)i'ndent from my neck by a piece of gifcn curtain-cord. The native boots on my feet were made I'iwt by strong thongs of seai.ikin. (.Juickly these were tied together and made into a line some twenty feet long. To this a iiioderately heavy stone was attached, and with a good throw I managed to cast it into the boat. "With a steady, gentle pull, the boat was once more within reach, and my I'kjuiuiaux companion and myself able to rejoin the living world ! It is said that " our lives often hang U])on a brittle thread ! " True, indeed. Ceiiainly it was something like it in the present case, and 1 believe there can be no impropriety iu saying that uiiue and my little Es(niimaux's depended for once upon a stioiig sliocstriiif) ! Another boat adventure may be here worth narrating. Ab3ut a month after the previous occurrence 1 went on " Look-out " Island to spend the day making observations, &c. Tw»j young Esquimaux accompanied me ; Tmt, though the {ilacc where I landed was only about half a mile south of the ship, M'c were some time getting there, and on arrival I found, IVoiu the high breakers ashore, it would be better to send the I)oat back. The troubled sea was such that in a little time the lioat, if left there, would have been pounded to pieces. I wrote a note to the ship, asking for one of the working boats to call for me at evening. As the two boys went off in the boat, no small anxiety was caused by witnessing the difficulty and delay they experienced in reaching the ship. And no wonder. The boat they had to manage was twenty-eight feet t I .'. II I \ 138 LIFE WITH THE ESljUIM.VUX. ^ \' 1 1 r H i./' M I [ 'I ' 1 1(1 I, r- i.. long and six feet beam, uiul this to take across a cliannol where the sea is often very considerable. However, the tide helped them, and in tinie they got alongside. In the evening one ol'our whale-boats came for mo nndei' charge of IMr. lingers, who also fonnd miieh dilUculty in up. proaching any ]>lace where I conld get on board. He ncared a rock upon which I stepped, but instantly found niysclt' slipping. I had in hand and about my person sextants, artificial horizon, nautical an'' surveyhig books, tape measurer, &c. &c., and there I was, poised u])on the edge of a ])r('cipit()us rock, fixed in deep water, with furious surf around it ! I I'elt alarmed, more, ]ierhaps for my instrununits than myself, for the former would be lost, wliile I might readily be saved. All of the boat's crew were anxiously bending their eyes ujion rue as I kept slij)ping, and for a moment unable to help myself. But, thanks to my Esquimaux boots, which had been well " chewed" by the native women, 1 was aide, by a great effort, to press my feet and toes upon the ice-covered rock, until Kcoici/, the " boat-header," managed to spring on shore to my assistance, and in another moment I was in the boat. Thus I was saved on this occasion simply by the flexibility of Esir.ii- maux boots ! One Sunday after dinner I took the dingey, a small belonging to the ship, and, accompanied by foiu" EsqumiauM boys, directed it to the foot of the mountains north of ouv harbour. The mountains are God's temples ; to them I like to bend my steps on Sundays. " God, that made the world and all things therein, seeing that He is Lord of heaven and earth, dwelleth not in temples made with hands." I used, therefore, to say, " To what place shall I go where I can better worship my God than on the mountains ? Huw can I so well learn His power as looking upon and contem- plating His almighty works ? " After leaving the boat in a safe little harbour, we began our upward tramp, and I was much interested in a pile of rock which seemed nearly undermined by old Fatlier Time. The 'til AKltlVAL OF TES-8U-W1N. 189 iL'iaaining stono was ibUlspnr ; that which had been eaten out —a stmtuni of live feet thick — was coni])osecl of mica and a siimll proportion of quartz. The distance excavated in some places coukl not have been less than three or four fathoms ! At fiist it seemed deciiledly venturesome to ^o under this rock slied ; but, on witnessing tlie tirnuiess of the feldspar, its imiiu'iise heiyht, length, and breadth, it restored my confidence. I jireatly enjoyed my walk, and returned on board Avithout iiiisliiip by the evening. On the lUtli of Septcnubcr we were visited by some new- lOiutTs — an Esipiimaux called Tes-m-ioin, and his family and boat's crew. They had left Ookoolear — Cornelius Grinnell liay — on the previous day, bringing a letter from Captiun .Vlloii, of the Black Eaylv, which vessel was still where we had k't't her on the IGth of August, when sailing for this place. The number in Tessuwin's boat was eleven, including four females. He had with him his wife, Nca-cr-ur-iniuj, and a sister's child called Oy-hir/, meaning whale. Tessuwin and his wife had both been to Fox Channel from Kemmisuite, in Nortluunberland Inlet, and the intormation they gave me con- ceiniug those parts, and all around the Frobisher Avaters, Avas veiy interesting, fully confirming the other reports. Tessuwin hud often seen, and, Avith many otluas, visited in his kia the llud(y-and-by it was ascertained t(j be the Gconjc Houy/s, and 1 here mention it to relate an instance of generous feeling on tlic part of Captain Tyson. When Snutli, who was the lucky captor, had fastened to the whale, and wan hjoking for means to secure his prize, Captain Tyson, in his boat, came up, and, without a word, proceeded to lance the huge monster so as to render him inca- pable of further resistance. Directly this was done, Tyson left, to go cruising for others ; nor did he once make any propositi(jn in reference to a claim for a share, as customary aniong whalers. His act was most friendly, especially so where whaling has so much to create strife. About this time I was very sick — indeed, had been quite prostrated for several days by severe rheumatic pains. The cause originated with myself in consequence of needless ex- posure. I had experienced no material illness before since leaving home ; and I believed, even as I now believe, that what Governor Elberg, of Holsteinborg, said to me about the healthy condition of all who reside in the arctic regions, as jcompured with other parts of the world, was true. But I had SEUI0U8 SICKNESS. 141 neglected oven the commonest precautions during wet, cold, ami l"oj,'.s, and thus I now suflered. I allude to it for the puipose of showing tlu^ great synii)atliy evinced for mc by the Lbiiuinuiux whenever they came on hoard. In moving about near my cabin they would walk on tiptoi', as though iiistructcid in our customs at home ; nnd on one occasion, two little girls, Oohmdhar and a companion, Avere so careful lest they should disturb me, that they wouhl hardly turn over the leaves of an illustrated atlas that had been placed before them for their amusement. This sickness of mine continued, with intermissions, for several days ; but eventually I triumphed over it, and was able to move ab(tut again as I had 1m <\\ accu.stonuMl to. During my sickness various dishes wi're prepared for me from game that was captured, but I well remember the joy I felt on eatiug a portion of a reindeer's tongue, brought on board by some of the Esquimaux after a successful hunt. The previous day all hands had been eating (and relishing it too) soiuc sousi'd "black skin" of the whale, and I hail fi'eely taken of ray share, but the satisiactiou was nothing compared to that produced by the reindeer tongue. Nevertheless, I still assert that the black skin is good, c>thcr raw or coolrd / and when prepared as pigs' feet are in the States, it is luxurious. At this time the Gcor/jc Henri/ was feeding and employing ill the whaling service thirteen Esquimaux — that i.s, two boats' crews and one over. They got three meals a day in the cabin. The ration to each was one sea-bisciut, a mug of coffee, and a slice of salt junk. IJesides this, they were furnisheil m ith all the pipes, tobacco, clothing, guns, and ammunition they wanted. In return, they generally went out cruising for whales just when they pleased, came back when they pleased, and did as they pleased. If one or several took an idea to go off deer-lmnting, or for any other object, away he or they would go. They icould be independent in the fullest sense of the word, and restraint was what they could not brook. We Americans talk about " freedom and independence," but we are far behind these Northerners. AVhile \vc are pleased !i- ' i 1 I i; : , I i 'i i i: 1^ 142 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. with sliadows, tin; tlusky sons of im nrctic cliiiio oiijuy thn substance. Tlicy /'■/// do iis they ]tU'!iso, without any (nn; havint,' tho nckuowIodgiHl right or power to say to thcsni, " Why do you so ? " I could say niuili, very niucliuiion this subject, but iicrhnii-. it may bo cousichTcd out ol' phu'C, thcrcrorc leave it Ww another opportunity. Still, I must make one remark. TIn' Es(iuimaux really deserve tho attention of the idiilantliropist and Christian. IMant among them a colony of men and woiuiii having right-nn'nded ]ivinciides, and, after sonx! jiatient tuil, glorious fruits must follow. 1 cannot realize the fact tliat hero is a ])eopl(^ having much of nol)leness and even ip'oilnm in their composition, yet unvisited and apparently uncarml- for by tho missionary world. Nothing, however, could lie done toward their good until a c(uu's(! is adopted similar tu that pursued by the King of Dennuirk with (ireenland. It is a painful, but too evident fact, that the E.squimaux on tlie west of Davis's Straits are woefully debused, and fallen fioiii their original virtues — though ](ossessing many still — owiiij; to the visits of reckless white nu^n on their coasts. In (ireen- land the case is iliHerent. There, under the Dani.sh kiiiu's control. Christian colonies, churches, sclunds, store-houses, and stores of every needful variety, are to be found inter- sjx'rsed from Cape Farewell to Upernavik, and the inhabitants comfortable and liap]iy. Priests and catechists, school- masters and schoolmistresses, are educated to their severiil posts, and are wi'll paid for their services from his majesty's coffers. Danes emigrate to the land, marry and intermarry with the Esquimaux. Knowledge and virtue, industiy ami prosperity, are the results. And, notwithstanding the ex])ens('S for the support of all this, including the salaries f»f ins])ectors, governors, and several scores of employes, yet the net proccH'ds of this a])])arently desolate land exceed ten thousand dollars, fed(!ral money, per annum ! This is well for Greeidanil. Paying for all her imports ; paying the expenses of some ten ships annually from and to Copenhagen ; paying all the otlior expenses named, including missionaries, and yet realizing an IKHIIini.K (lAF.F,. 14:l iiiimial rotiim of net prolit fur (lie Kill},' of DoniiKirk of ten thdUHiiiKl (Inllai'H ! Ituw iiiiiiiy nal ions of this iiiodcni dny do better? And, witli this liict lirloit' ns, why shall not thn saino (inur (adopt in;; the suuic plan) in the land of tlii' Ksiininianx (III tlio west sido of Davis's Straits? Lut my coiintrynicu liHik to it whoucvor tlu; llrst opportunity arrives. On tliL! 27tli day of Scptcndu'r (IHti(l) there hroko ujxm us tliiit fearful <;al(' which caused the loss of my expedition boat ami tlio far-fa nu'd Risnic, drove; thu Cvdiyudia on shore, and caiiu! near provinj,' the destruction of the Gcori/e JFniri/ and iiU on hoard. As it was of so serious a character, I will here 1,'ive the ]iarticulars in detail. Wedni'sday, tlu' L'i'ith, commenced Avitli li^jht winds from the N.K. At uoon it he^^an to snow, with an increasing liive/e. At 1 P.M. all the boats came on board from their ciuisiiif,'-ground, and preparations were made for had weather. The wind now rapidly increased to a gale, and at 8 i-.m. the SL'Coiid anclutr was let go, with all the cable given that could 111! allowed without letting the Gcnr;/'' JIniri/ get too near tho rueky island astern (jf u.s, Tlu; schooner Rescur, at this time, was about fifty fathoms distant on onv starbf)ard bow, and the brig Gioyfjimia a little more easterly. At 9 I'.M. the gale Wiis still increasing, and a heavy sea rising. At this time the deck watch came in the cabin and reported that the Rescue was dragging her anchors, and as we looked upon lier (liivk form through the thick darkness of the night, it seemed, as she kept moving by, that her destruction was inevit. ''le and immediate. JUit, when abeam of us, she held on, though pitching and surging heavily. The Gioryinna was seen but I'aiutly, and it api)eared as if she, to(», was in gnsat danger. At 11 P.M. it was blowing a perfect hurricane, with thick snow, and just then we couhl perceive the la'ig driving astern toward the island. Slij had, as we afterward leariuxl, broken her small anchor, and dragged lu;r large om;. On she went, driving heavily, amid the wild stir of the elements, and the awful darkness of that snow-storm night — on and on, with nothing to save her, until presentlv we could see. she had 1i < ii '"'{ 8 ',' 1- I. ! r I 144 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. struck upon the island loeward of us, where, after " worrying " her iinchor round a ])oiat of land, she got into some slightly smooth water, and there continued pounding her larhoiud side on the rocks. The crew now left her and went on to the island, expecting every moment that she would part liev remaining chain, and so be driven out into the bay, Avhove there would be no possible chance of saving their lives. Meanwhile, we ourselves were momentarily ex})ectiiig do- struction. It did not seem possible that our anchors could hold. Wind, and storm, and a raging sea appeared to be combined against lis. Thirty souls, besides near a score of natives, were on board, and all preparing for the moment when it was pi'obable the Gt'orr/c Iloirij would be adrift on the rocks. P)Ut thanks to Providence and our good anchors, Ave did not stir, though at no time very fixr from the rocks. Every now and then I was on deck, not to hear the howling winds, for the whole cabin below resounded with their roar, but to ga ze up( )u the terrible scene. And what a scene ! It was 1 ruly awful. Never before had I seen its like — never had I pic- tured to my imagination the reality of such a night. As I tried to steady myself by holding fast to some fixed rope, my eyes were spell-boimd by the fearful sight before me, Tliore behind was the brig pounding away upon the rocks ; ami here, closer to us, was our consort, the schooner, plunging and chafing at her anchors as if mad at the restraint put upon her, and insanely desirous of letting go her hold to rush upon the shore. Ever and anon would she throw her bows low down, taking up the Ininy sea, and then, swiftly surging to and fro, sjjving fearfully on her chains. On the rocky, desolate island astern, the moving figin-es of those lielonging to the bviji; could be discerned, evidently doing their best to keep warm in that bitter night. Tlirough tlie rigging of our ship came tlie howling wind and the driving snow, Avhile the fierce waves played and leaped about in the wildest fury. Yes, it was indeed a fearful sight, especially as it was increased in horror by the dread uncertainty of own and our consort'si contimied safety. ! i (■. WRECK OF THE RESCUE AND EXPEDITION BOAT. 145 At length these, our fears were in part fulfilled. Toward morning the hurricane became stronger. Every blast seemed as if about to tear us from our hold, and then lift us into the air and hurl us upon the rocks for destruction. Presently our eyes caught sight of the Rc'^cnc in a moment dashing before the storm toward the dreaded shore. She had parted chain,, and, with one bound, went liopelessly Ijroadside on, amid the breakers at her lee. Thump ! thump ! crash ! crash ! away the tottering masts 1 the ropes, the bulwarks, the all of wliat was once the noble-looking, beautiful, and renowned schooner Rescue/ In and among the rocks, with their jagged tops tearing her to pieces, and the boiling surges driving over her decks, as the snow-storm poured its heavy drift around, even as if it were a wondrous funeral shroud, so did the (loomed craft meet its fate. So, too, was my expedition l)oat torn from its moorings, and, sharing the Rrscite's sad end, doomed me also to a wreck of disappointment in the hopes I had cherish-ed concerning her. And all this we saw as, with startled gaze and anxious thought, we stood on deck, powerless to save, and equally powerless to avert our own doom, if it should come. The night passed on. The morning light slowly and cheer- lessly pierced through the increasing thickness of falling snow as it flew past us on the driving wind. Dimly at first, then more distinctly, but still in dread spectre-like form, loomed up the rugged island scene, with its wrecks and desolation. Figures all but indistinct were moving about, and the two ships were pounding upon the rocks, tearing at their anchors as if in the most convulsive death-throes. The Rescue was on her broadside, witli her bow easterly, and evidentlv breaking up. The Gcorgiana, being in a more sheltered spot, appeared to be less hurt. Eut it was necessary to do something, if possibhs, to release the men from their position on shore, and get them on board of us, for we seemed now likely to hold on. Accordingly, the moment a lull in the wmd took place, which was at 9 a.ji. of the 27th, a wliale-boat was carefully lowered and passed astern. Into it VOL. I. L 140 LfFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. ' ;i ■■>{ i •! 'I I ; '•I itt ! i ! il ^„ I ';! !i i'i two brave hearts, Mate Rogers and a seaman, stepped, with a view of venturing through the boiling waves and surf to tiy and assist their wrecked comrades. Cautiously the boat was allowed to drift off toward th ) island, a strong and good line of great length attached to it from the ship. Skilfully was it guided over the seas and through the breakers. ^late llogers and his bold companion well and nobly did their work. In a few moments the boat was inider the Rescue's projecting bowsprit, and speedily, though requiring exceeding care. Captain Tyson, his crew, and those who had been on board of the schooner, got into her. A short time more, and all were standing safely on the Gcorrjc Hnin/s deck. At noon both the stranded ships were pounding very heavily on the rocks, and jumping their anchors in such a manner as to cause the two vessels to move their position more round the island, though in ojiposite directions. Thns it continued throughout all of the 27th, the wind increasing rather than the contrary. But on the following morning the gale abated, and at nine o'clock a party of our people managed to get on shore. We found the larboard side of the licscur badly stove, but the Gcnrgiiina, by being in a much less exposed place, was perfectly tight, and comparatively un- injured. Her crew soon afterward took possession of her again, and ultimately she was got off the rocks, and once mow anchored in deep water. As for the Rvkcuc, after a careful examination, it was found she was too far daiucaged to be repaired with any means at ouv command. Accordingly, it was determined to totally abandon her ; and this was put in execution the following day by clearin_ her hold of all the contents, and saving whatever was valuable of her material. I went on shore to examine what remained of the schooner, and also to look after my expedition boat. I found my boat totally wrecked, nothing remaining but the stern-post fast to a three-inch cable. Tt appeared that during a jiart of the galo she had been driven high up on the rocks, and though tlio Grorfjiana's crew endeavounni to save her by additional il, III, ii I', ,1 1 mm m 9m ' t I I )!ll 'ii' ' aj'. f^ '— pc(l, with a surf to tiy \G boat was (\ gootl line iilfully was vers. ^late ly did their the Rcscnc's ig exceeding ad been on le more, and ;k. mding very s in such a leir position tions. Thus d increasing morning tlie pie managed f the licscnr , much less ratively un- ssion of hev id once mor(> it was found means at our ;ally abandon wing day hy whatever was the schooner, und my boat ■post fast to a rt of the gale d though tlie y additional I ! ! I r. L' iii - "1 i ( ' '!' 'f^ 1 ' ■. '''' w'' 1 ' i f 1 ' ■ t:- ■I ■ til s - 1 jj ;f 1 : j u It . ummaOK^-^ EXAMINATION OP THE WRECKS. 149 fastenings, her fate was sealed. The tempestuous elements would not allow her to escape, and she was broken to pieces in the fury of the storm. I need not say how much I grieved at the loss of my boat. To me it was irreparable, and for a time I was nearly over- come by the blow ; but I reasoned tliat all things were for the best in the hands of a good Providence, and I therefore bent submissively to His will. The natives who had been on board of the Georgiana were on the island when I lauded. They had found the sail of my boat, and turned it to account as a shelter, and now were as happy and merry as though nothing unusual had occurred. The Rescue, when I examined her, was high and dry on the rocks, with her bottom stove in. I mounted her side (her decks were inclining to the shore at an angle of 45°_) ; I entered her cabin, and looked into her hold, and again descended outside, going under and aroimd her. Then as I gazed at her battered hull, grieving at the end she had come to, what a number of interesting associations crowded upon my mind. She had been of the " United States' Grinnell Expedition " in search of Sir John Franklin in 1850-1, being the consort of the Advance, in which latter vessel Dr. Kane afterward made that memorable voyage (the second Grinnell Expedition) in search ot Franklin in 1853-5. The Rescue's quondam consort, after having given forth freely of its planks and timbers for the preservation and warmth of Dr. Kane and his party, was finally given up to the ices of the North which unrelentingly grasped it. The Advance was abandoned Sunday, May 20th, 1855,Jn Eensselaer Harbour, lat. 78° 37' N. and long. 70° 40' W. Five years, four months, and seven da}s after tliis occurred the total wreck of the Rescue, in a harbour named after her, situated in lat. 62° 52' N. and long. 64° 44' W. nearly due south of her former consort. After well examining the Rescue, I went to the wreck of Koojesse's whale-boat, lying on the windward side of the island. This boat had been fast to the schooner's stern, and, of course, went on the rocks at the same time. She had "4- ^1 Mm 150 LIKE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. lie' 11 M i IVC fi originally belonged to KntUago, having been givi ri to lum iu 1858. When Kudla-o left for the States in 18.~9, i:, ..•avc the boat to Koojesse to use until hif; return. * I may add here, that an ooniien (woman's or lainily boat) belonging to the natu'(\« went adrift during the air.vm and became a total wreck. A boat ol' ti.ia kind is of great value to the Esquimaux, and, wiien lost, is to them sometliir;.f:; akin to the lobS of a first-class ship to us at hoiiic. T must now way a lew words concerning ii:yself. Even in tlir: mids! of the howling tempest, when our own i^^afety on boa;.' the Gforijv Henqi was a matter of doubt, my thoughts kept turuin{,'lo ^.vaat I should do, now that my expedition boat was lost. Jivi it (hd not take me long to consider. I was deter- ujineil rht,!, God willing, nothing should daunt me; I would persevere if there was the smallest chance to ])roceed. If one plan failed — if one disaster came, then another plan should bo tried, and the disaster remedied to the best of my power. Thus, without delay, and while yet the hurricane blasts made the ship tremble beneath us, as the captain and I stood on her deck, I asked him if one of the ship's boats could he spared me to prosecirte my voyage to King William's Land, now that my own little craft was wrecked. His reply, after some consideration, was favourable ; but, when the time approached for . ly departure, it was found the one that alone could be spared to me was frail, rotten, and not seaworthy. On t;ie 1st of October the Gccn^giana, having made good her defects so far as she could, left the harbour under all sail, for Northumberland Inlet to winter. By her I forwarded letters to friends at home, should she meet, as was expected, with whalers returning to England. * Before 1 clo.se this account of the Rescue's wreck and the loss of my expe- dition boat, with the escape of the George Henry, it may be interesting to mention that this latter vessel did not live through another voyage after her return to the States in 1862. She was wrecked on the ICth day of July, 18()il, on one of the lower Savage Islands in Hudson's Strait, about 100 miles farther south than Rescue Harbour. The particulars will be found in tlie A|)peudix (<)^. . ii! /X CHAPTER yill. ^iilmlid Displays of the Aurora — Arrival of Captain Parker in the " True- love" — Visit to his Ship — Nikujar the Pilot— First Interview xmth the Iniiuits Ebkrhing and Tookoolito — Their previous Visit to Emjhmd and Presentation to Royalty — Snow-storm — A natural Causeway — Fluctuations of the Compass Nvedle — Tookoolito at Work — She tries to Educate Mr People —Ilcr Power to do Good — Advantages of a Mission Colony— ' ' Carl Petersen, " M'Clintock''s Interpreter — Tookoolito rebuking Swearers. For several days now our life was of a very inonotonoxis ilescription, except so far as varied by the visits of Esquimaux, who were frequently on board performing different avocations move or less useful to us. Scrubbing the cabin floor, sewing and dressing sealskins, were some of the occupations that engrossed their time. Occasionally the younger members were ready pupils under my hand in tiying to learn whatever I could teach them of civilized education. But at this time the phenomena of Nature frequently gave me intense delight. The aurora, in all its glorious brilliancy, shone forth on several nights, and often did I linger on deck gazing upon it, with my soul entranced by the sight. It is impossible for me to give a just and full description of the immeasurable beauty 'and gi-andeur of such a scene. All I can attempt to do is to put before the reader my thoughts and sensations at the several times, as recorded in my journal. " November 23, 1860. — A fe^ places at six o'clock this even- ing where the cerulean sky and stars can be seen. While standing on deck near the bow of the vessel, viewing Mars in its meridian passage at this place, all at once a bright, beauti- ful beam of aurora shot up midway between the star and the moon. The moon — some 39° or 40" east of Mars — was shining brightly, but above and below it were eirri cimiuH tloiuls. Ei'twcen the planets all was clear. The aurora beams I i I ' I i i M W WW 152 LIFE WITH THK ESIJI'IMAUX. i t ; i \ fi.ri ; il; , ! »: increased rapidly. Tlicy were of prismatic colimrs to-niglil, poa-groon predominating. Oli that 1 could pen or pencil the beanty of this display ! The kind of clouds Mhich I have named are the most distant of any. The aurora, as it fre- quently ascended high in the heavens, plainly painted its golden rays upon the face of the clouds, thus proving it was at play hctireca me and them. Blind Georyc, the Esquimaux, was standing by my side. I told him what was going on in the heavens. I said the moon was shining, and the aurora .showing off finely at the time. He wished me to place hiiu TlIK .AIRORA, NOV, 23, ISlIO, in position that his face might be upturned toward what 1 saw and so admired. This I joyfully did. JujifuUij, do I say ? No, no ! For, as Vrndooyrr (Blind George) asked me, I saw that he was possessed of an uncontrollable yearning, seeming to me like that of a pinioned eagle, to soar away to the regions of the stars, He sought to tear away the curtains to-niglit, pencil the 3h I have as it fre- •aintetl its iiig it was squimfiux, )ing on in the aurora place hiiu m ward what 1 lj/,do I say? [1 me, I saw ing, seeming iway to the the curtains I '1 m II i h 1 1 ' I ,J3^-^ ! \r I t i i. ! >• SPLENDID DISPLAYS OF THE AUUOKA. 155 which God, in His own (Uspenoation, had seen fit to place before his eyes, that he might again see the handiwork of Him who made the stars, the world, and all that is therein. "My ecstasy in the beauty of the scene before me was caught up by the spirit of George, thus making him an object worthy of a poet's i>en — worthy of lasting remembrance." On another occasion, December 3d, I find myself saying, "The aurora commenced its fantastic dances at 5 p.m. It now stretches its arch across the heavens from S.E. to W. the whole southerly of the vessel. Though not at firet so, yet HOW their base is of prismatic colours. I know of no phe- nomenon more deeply interesting than that which is to be seen here every fair night in the aurora." Again, on another morning, December 17th, at six o'clock, I A\ rite, " The heavens are beaming with aurora. The .ap- jiuiiraiice of this phenomenon is quite changed from what it lias been. Now the aurora shoots up in beams scattered over the whole canopy, all tending to meet at zenith. How mul- titudinous are the scenes presented in one hour by the aurora ! This morning the changes are veiy rapid and magnificent. Casting the eye in one direction, I view the instantareous flash of the aurora shooting up and spreading out its beautiful rays, gliding this way, then returning, swinging to and fro hke the pendulum of a mighty clock. I cast my eyes to auother point ; there instantaneous changes are going on. I close my eyes for a moment; the scene has changed for another of seemingly greater beauty. In truth, if one were to catch the glowing heavens at each instant now passing, his varied views would number thousands in one hour. Wlio but God could conceive such infinite scenes of glory? AVlio but God execute them, painting the heavens in such gorgeous display ? " At another time the aurora presented a luw phase, rays shooting athwart the south-western sky parallel with the horizon. Liter still, March 11th, I say : " It seemeth to me as if the very doors of heaven have been opened to-night, so mighty, ] ' t If 111 !^ 156 IIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. I \ hi V I t > ! li U' If ' •! - »i and beauteous, and marvellom were the waves of golden liglit that a few moments ago swept across the ' azure deep,' break- ing forth anon into floods of wondrous glory. God made His wonderfid works to-night to be remembered. I have witnessed many displays of the aurora since making anchorage in this harbour, a great many of them of surpassing magnificence, yet what I beheld this night crowns them all. I could never have anticipated the realization of such a scene ! "I was not alone enjoying it. Captain Budington and Mate Gardiner were with me, and we all looked on iu wondrous yet delighted awe. " Tlie day had been fine, with a moderate wind from the north-west. When the sun went down behind the ridge of mountains limiting the bay, a perfect calm followed, with a sky absolutely cloudless. At 4 P.M. there had been seen one solitary and peculiar cloud hanging in the heavens to tlie north about 15° above the horizon. This cloud was a deep dark blue, looking much like the capital letter S. This at last disappeared, and the night set in, still beautiful and mild, with myriads of stars shining with apparently greater brilliancy than ever. " I had gone on deck several times to look at the beauteous scene, and at nine o'clock was below in my cabin going to bed when the captain hailed me with the words, ' Come above, Hall, at once ! The world is on fire ! ' " I knew his meaning, and, quick as thought, I redressed myself, scrambled over several sleeping Innxiits close to my berth, anil rushed to the companion stairs. In another moment I reached the deck, and as the cabin door swung open, a dazzling, overpowering light, as if the world waii really a-blaze under the agency of some gorgeously-coloured fires, burst upon my startled senses ! How can I describe it? Again I say, no mortal hand can truthfully do so. Let me, however, in feeble, broken words, put down my thoughts at the time, and try to give some faint idea of what I saw. " My first thoxight was, ' Among the gods there is none like unto Thee, Lord; neither are there any works like unto ■ !| SPLENDID DISPLAYS OK THE AUROKA, l.'.T Thy vxtrks ! ' Then I tried to picture tlie scene before me. Piles of golden light and rainbow light, scattered along the azure vault, extended from behind the western horizon to the zenith ; thence down to the eastern, within a belt of space 20° in width, were the fountains of beamn, like fire-threads, that shot with the rapidity of lightning hither and thither, upward and athwart the great pathway indicated. No sun, no moon, yet the heavens were a glorious sight, flooded with light. Even ordinary print could have been easily read on deck. "Flooded with rivers of light. Yes, flooded with light; and such light ! Light all but inconceivable. The golden hues predominated ; but, in rapid succession, prisniatic colours Uaped forth. " We looked, we saw, and trembled ; for, even as we gazed, the whole belt of aurora began to be alive with flashes. Then each pile or bank of light became myriads ; some now dropping down the great pathway or belt, others springing up, others leaping with lightning flash from one side, while more ns quickly passed into the vacated space ; some, twisting themselves into folds, entwining with others like enormous serpents, and all these movements as quick as the eye could follow. It seemed as if there was a struggle with these heavenly lights to reach and occupy the dome above our heads. Then the whole arch above became crmvded. Down, clown it came ; nearer and nearer it approached us. Sheets of golden flame, coruscating while leaping from the auroral belt, seemed as if met in their course by some mighty agency that turned them into the colours of the rainbow, each of the seven primary, 3° in width, sheeted out to 21° ; the prismatic bows at right angles with the belt. " While the auroral fires seemed to be descending upon us, one of our number could not help exclaiming, " ' Hark ! hark ! such a display ! almost as if a warfare was going on among the beauteous lights above — so palpable — so near — seems impossible without noise.' "But no noise accompanied this wondrous display. All was silence. 11 € wi'm 158 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. a ;l i I ' '.« U' h " After we had again descended into oiir cabin, so strong was the impression of awe left upon us that the captain said to me, . ■ " ' Well, during the last eleven years I have spent mostly in these northern regions, I never have seen anything of tlie aurora to approach the glorious vivid display just witnessed, And, to tell you the truth, Friend Hall, / do not care to sec th like ever again.' " That this display was more than ordinarily grand was evidenced by the testimony of the Innuits, particularly Tookoolito, who, when she came on board a few days after- wards, stated that she had been much struck by its remarkable brilliancy, and that " it had exceeded in beauty and magnifi- cence all displays ever before witnessed by her." I would here make the remark that the finest displays of the aurora only last a few moments. Though it may be playing all night, yet it is only now and then that its grandest displays are made. As if marshalling forces, gathering strength, com- pounding material, it continues on in its silent workings. At length it begins its trembling throes ; beauty anon shoots out here and there, when all at once the aurora Jlaslies into livilig hosts of 2^owdercd coruscating rainbows, belting the heavenly dome with such gorgeous grandeur sometimes that mortals tremble to behold ! On October 13th we had an unexpected arrival. A steamer and a sailing vessel were observed coming up from sea, and in the evening ])oth vessels anchored on the opposite side of Field Bay. In a short time we ascertained that the strangers were well-known English whalers, being no less than tlio famous Captain Parker, of the True-love, and his son, com- manding the steam-ship Lady Gelia. They had come from Cornelius Grinnell Bay in less than a day, leaving Captain Allen, of the Black Eagle, there. Intelligence of our schooner's wreck had reached tliem at that place a few days after it hail occurred, an Esquimaux .and his wife having travelled by land and carried tlie news. Dinictly tliorc was an opportunity I paid a visit to tlio NIKUJAR THE PILOT. 159 new-comers, starting from our ship early in the morning. Ugamg's boat and crew took me there. The party consisted of himself, his wife Nikujar and child, Kokerjabin (Kudlago's widow), Sterry, and myself, besides other Esquimaux. AVhen we were one mile from Looh-oxtt Island the sun was lifting his bright face from the sea. The whole ridge of mountains, running south-easterly to " Hall's " Island of Frobisher, was in plain sight, covered with white, and as we approached them, no opening into the harbour where the vessels were supposed to lie could be seen. But Niknjar being a capital pilot, knowing every channel and inlet within 1 1. NIKTMAIt, THE noAT-STEEUEn AND PILOT. two hundred miles of our anchorage, the steering-oar was given to her ; and there, seated upon the logger-head, with her pretty infant in its hood behind her neck, she steered us correctly to the spot. With a few good strokes of the oars, we soon entered the snug little cove where the Parkers had taken shelter. In a moment or two after passing the steamer we were standing ' ' 160 LlFE WITH TIIK ESQUIMAUX. ! i ! I II ; H > mi I on the deck of the True-love, most kindly welcomed by Captain Parker, senior, and shortly afterward by his son, avIio came oa board. I there found " Blind George," who imme- diately vecognised my voice, calling me by name, and saying, " How do you, I\Iitter Hall ? " and then, Avithout waiting for reply, adding, " Pretty well, I tank you ! " I was, indeed, right glad to again meet this noble but afflicted Esquimaux. The four times I had seen him at Cornelius Grinnell Bay caused hun to be much impressed upon my memory, and now, strangely, here he was, and actually in presence of Nikujar, who was his former wife, before Ugarng took her away and made her his. Ugarug, however, cotild support the woman, and poor blind George could not ; hence the latter had to submit, and be content with an occasional visit of their only child, as an idol which he cherished even more than liis own life. Captain Parker soon took me into his cabin, and had an excellent breakfast spread on the table. After this, conversa- tion turned upon many subjects of a most interesting nutnre. He had brought his ship, guided by an Esquimau^ ])ilot— Ebierbing — from Niountelik, in Northumberland Inlet, to Cornelius Grinnell Bay, through a chiinuel 128 miles long, and not above one to two miles broad, behind a line of i.slands facing the sea. The steamer towed the sailing ship, as no vessel of their size ould pass up or down such a channel unless with a fair wind. In the channel the flood tide runs south, while elsewhere it runs north. Captain Parker said the scenery was most magnificent, and there was plenty of salmon, deer, and other game. Altogether it was a trip, Uf^- be expressed it, that I would have been delighted with. Among the many incidents related to me by Captain Parker, one or two may be worth recording here. He said that in 1833-4 lie had been down Prince Eegent's Inlet as far as (Jape Kater, in company with the Isabella, Captain Humphreys, who rescued Sir John Eoss and his companions after their four years' abode in an icy home. Parker had seen Ross's boats while on their way to escape, but supposing them to bo !» 1 ARCTIC EXPERIENCES. 161 the Isabella's, took no especial notice. In Eegent's Inlet, he suit], there were hundreds of whales between Cape York and Cape Kater. He had caught five off Cape Kater, and twenty- three more between there and Cape York. Seals, narwhals, white whales, and the walrus, were al^o in great abundance. He likewise described to me, in a most graphic manner, the terrible storm of 1830 in Eaifin's Bay, when twenty-two vessels were Avrecked, and yet his own ship escaped without the slightest damage. One thousand men had to make good their retreat upon the ice toward the Danish settlements, some GOO miles distant, and aU arrived safely with the exception of two, who died from the effects of spirituous liquors they injudiciously drank. Captain Parker, at the time I saw him, was sixty -nine years of age, and good, to all appearance, for half a score more in the arc<^ic regions. He had been navigating those northern seas (whaling) for forty-five years, with an interval of about five years, when he rested. He commenced in 1815, and was a commander in 1820. He had never lost a ship. On the present voyage neither vessel had a chronomete)'. They depended upon dead reckoning for their longitude. There was a doctor on board, quite a young man, and apparently of merit. He had been one year in Springfield, ^ i: nuich, and she was quite ' pretty.' He also said that Prince Albert was a 've^y kind, good man, and he should never forget him.' " The following com -^rsation, as copied from my jonrnal, written at the time, will show the sentiments of Tookoolito on civilized life : — I asked her how she would like to live in England. She replied, " I would like very well, I thank you." " Would you like to go to America witli me ? " said I. " I would indeed, sir," was the ready reply. In reference to the Queen of England, she said, " I visited her, and liked the appearance of Ilcr Majesty, and eveiy thing about the palace. Eine plar % I assure you, sir." Tookoolito was suffering with a cold, and J noticed that whenever she coughed she threw her face on one side and held her hand before her lips, the same as any lady of good manners would. Her costume was that of civilization, being a dress with heavy flounces, an elegant toga made of young tuktoo fur deeply fringed, and a bonnet of the .?tyle invented on tlie principle "cover the head by a rosette on its back ! " As Tookoolito continued speaking, I could not help admiring the exceeding gracefulness and modesty of her demeanour. S:' Qpie and gentle in her way, there was a degree of calm intellectual power about her tliat more and more astonished me. I felt delighted beyond measure, because of the op[)Oi'- tunity it gave me for becoming better acc^uainted with tlll^<(' peojjle through her means, and I hoped to improve it toward the furtl ■■■^ance f the great object I had in view. After a stay of soiwo duration she w(>nt on shore, and tlu following day I visited hci and her husband at their tent. She was then in native costume, and it seemed to me that this suited her even better than the other. Some short tiuie after this, I made an excursion by myself to the island on which was situated the Esquimaux " North Star " village. The day became stormy after I had landed in one of tho strai^' The out, b;i lively there a Slicks fo engaget civilizet ivilds ol It wn view \Y] and stc ; , LOST IN A SNOW STORM. 165 native boats, but I continued my walk, accompanied by the dogs, to a part of the island I wished to visit. On arriving there, I found a sort of natural causcivay, formed of stones, leading to a smaller islet, and, crossing it, I continued exaiaiiiing the locality for some time. At length the snow- storm increased so much as to compel my return, and I made my way back to the south side of the main island. But now I could hardly see my way. The snow came down so thiclc that I was fain to take shelter under the lee of some rocks near me, and, while there, I examined my compass to ascertain if I was going right. To my astonishment, I found the course I had pursued wfis exactly the reverse of the right one. I looked again and again, and yet the needle pointed exactly opposite to what I had expected. What was 1 to do ? retrace my steps ? For a moment I hesitated ; but at length moving on, I was about walking back as I had come, when, on looking at the compass again, I found it just tlie opposite of what it was before ! Strange, thought I. Surely there must be local attraction in the rocks where I took shelter. But still it made me anxious, especially as the weather was becoming worse. Indeed, I felt it very possible I might be lost in the storm, and perhaps have to wander iibout all the coming night, or be frozen to death by remaining stationary, should the compass play me another trick ; but at last, thanks to my faithful dogs, they actually guided mo straight to the village, where I arrived without any mi.shai>. The one I entered was Ebierbing's. He himself had gone out, iDut Tookoolito welcomed me as usual, .soon entering into lively and instructing conversation. Two native boys were there at the time, and Tookoolito herself was busy Kxirnxo socks for her husband ! Yes, to my surpri.se, slu^ was thus engaged, as if she had been in a civilized land and herself civilized, instead of being an Esquhuaux in her own native vilds of ice and snow ! It was a strange contrast, the sight within that tent and the view without. The latter jiresented a pictinc of barrenne.s,s and storm ; the former much that tended to the idea of 166 LIFE WITH THE ESC^UIMAUX. i 1,1 r V warmth and home. Knitting stockings for hor husband ! How much of dear home was in that favourite domestic occupation ! Then, too, her voice, her words and hvnguaj>e, the latter in my own vernacular, were something more than common in that region. I have before said that she was peculiarly pleasing and refined in her style and manners ; and now, while sheltering me beneath her hospitable roof, with the bright lamp before me, the lively prattle of the two boys came in strong contrast to the soft tones of her partly civilized tongue as my mind opened to receive all she uttered. "What she said, and what my impressions were at the tiine, will be found in the folloAving extract from my journal : "November l^iJi, 18G0. — Tookoolito, after returning from England five years ago, where she and her wing-a (husband) spent twenty months, commenced diffusing her accomplish- ments in various ways, to wit, teaching the female portion of the nation, such as desired, to knit, and the various useful things practised by civilization. In all the places around Northumberland Inlet she has lived, and done what she coidd to improve her people. A singular fact reliitive to dressing her hair, keeping her face and haSds cleanly, and wearing civilization dresses — others of her sex, in considerable num- bers, follow these fashions imported by her. i'his shows to me what one person like Tookoolito could accomplish in the way of the introduction of schools and churches among this people. To give this woman an education in the States, and subsequent employment in connexion with several of our missionaries, would serve to advance a noble and good work. And yet I must state that, unless a loorking colonji, or several of them, were established, co-operating in this work, and laws were made by the fundamental power that sliould he as rir/id relative to whalers visiting the coasts as those of Denmark to Greenland, all ivould be as nouijlit. "The working or trading colony would make its goyern- ment, school, and church institutions self-supporting. Let the plan of Denmark for Greenland be followed. It is a good one, and toorhs ivcll. VARIOUS DIALKCiTH. 167 " While in tlie tout, Tookoolito brought out the book I had given her, and desired to be instructed. She has got so far as to spell Avurds of two letters, and pronounce most of them properly. Her progress is praiseworthy. At almost every step of advancement, she feels as elated as a triumi)hant hero iu battle. She is far more anxious to learn to read and write tlmn Ebierbing. I feel greater conflO nee (allowing it were possible to feel so) iu the success of my mission since engaging tliese two natives. They can talk with me in my own ver- iiacidur, are both smart, and will be useful each in the dei^art- luent they will be called iipou to fill. Tookoolito will especially fill the place of an interpreter, having the capacity for it surpassing Karl I'etersen, the Dane, who has been employed as Esquimaux interpreter by various expeditions iu search of Sir John Franklin — 1st, by Captain Penny, 1850-1 ; 2d, by Dr. Kane, 1853-5 ; 3d, by vJaptaui (now Sir Leopold) M'Clintock, 1857-9. " Tookoolito, 1 have no doubt, will readily accomplish the differences in language between the Tnnuits of Boothia and King William's Land, and tliat of her own people around Northumberland Inlet and Davis's Strait. The pronunc'^.tion of the same words by communities of Esquimaux living at considerable distances from each other, and having but little iutercoiu'se, is so different that it is with difficulty they are understood one by the other. I should judge, from the very great difference of the language as spoken by the Greenlanders and the natives on the west side of Davis's Strait, that I'etersen was of little service to IM'Clintock as an Esquimaux interpreter. This conclusion would be arrived at by any one reading the narrative of M'Clintock's interviews with the natives on King William's Land. "The Greenlanders have a mixed language consisting of Danish and EsquimauJ:. . . . Even the intercourse of the wlialers with the Esquimaux around Northumberland Inlet lias introduced among them many words that are now in o( instant use. Tookoolito informed me to-day that the words pickaninny, for infant; coouey, for wife; pussy, for seal; 168 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. 't '.: Husky, for Innuit; smoketutc, for pipe, n^'.d inany other words, are not Esquimaux, though in use among her people. " I now complete the tuple interview. Before I was aware of it, Tookoolito had the 'tea-kettle' over the fricmdly fivu- lanip, and the water boiling. She asked nu; if I drank tea. Imagine my surprise at this, the question coming from an Esquimaux in an Esquimaux tent ! I replied, 'I do ; but you have not tea here, have yoxi ? ' Drawing her hand from a little tin box, she displayed it full of fine-flavoured l)lack tea, saying, ' Do you like your tea strong ? ' Thinking to spare her thr use of much of this precious article away up here, far from the land of civilization, I replied, ' I'll take it weak, if you please.' A cup of hot tea was soon before me— capital tea, and capitally made. Taking from my pocket a sea-biscuit which I had brought from the vessel for my dinner, I shared it with my hostess. Seeing she had but one cup, I induced her to share with me its contents. There, amid tlu' snows of the North, under an Esquimaux's lios- pirablfc tent, in company with Esquimaux, for the first time I shar ifi. with them in that soothing, cheering, invigorating emblem of civilization — T-E-A ! Tookoolito says that she and Iier winga (husband) drink it nearly c^ery night and morning. They acquired a taste for it in England, and have since obtained their annual supply from English and American whalers visiting Northumberland Inlet. " By-the-bye, Tookoolito said to me during the entertain- ment just described, ' I feel very sony to say that many of the whaling people are very bad, making the Innuits bad too ; they swear very much, and make our people swear. I wish they would not do so. Amcricmis swear a great deal- more and worse than the English. I wish no one would swear. It is a very bad practice, I believe.* " How think you, beloved Americans, I felt with these hot coals on my head ? Oh that every swearing man, and every saint, could have seen and heard that Esquimaux woman as she spoke thus ! I had just returned from a hard encounter y ith deep snow— falling snow, driven by ahnost a hurricane ; TOOKOOLITO KEDIKINO SWKAKEBS. 169 but, God, give me a thousniul storms — worse, if they could 1)0 — rather than have the like thuwhring in my ears a{,'ain ! Her words, her looks, her voice, her tiiars, are in my very soul still. Here, one of the iron daui^'hters of the rocky, ice-ribbed North, standing like an angel, pleading tli' cause of the true God, weei)ing for the sud havoc made making among her people by those of my C(nintr}'mc 'should have been, and ever should be, the glorious rep of freedom, civilization, and Christianity ! It was ' ; I was a child. I confess, I blushed for this st , upon my country's honour — not only this, but for the wickedness diffused almost throughout the unenlightened Avorld by the instrumentality of whalers hailing from civilized lands. "This I am ready to admit, that some commanders, some ofticers, and some crews of whaling ships are as they should be, exemplary men — men who take pleasure in doing good wherever they are — who seek to extend the bounds of civilization, planting philanthropic and Christian institutions where darkness and ignorance had before reigned universal. " Being now ready to return — three o'clock p.m. — Ebierbing kindly gathered a crew from among his friends to convey me fiboard. Much seko (ice) had sot into the cove, causing us great trouble and delay to get out. Once clear, a few strokes brought us alongside. " 10 o'clock, night, thermometer 29°, barometer- 29.525 ; wind south — fresh ; cloudy." n . \v l>V BONE SLEDOE-RUNKER. "^ 7 ^J" ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 La 128 |2.5 Hi It 2.0 1.8 L25 IIIU 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation V ^ /. '^.V^.^ °^^^ 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)S72-4S03 ''fc*' w z ^ :\ 1 ■: -"i k :inl CnAPTEPi IX. r/,s'(V /o Esqitinirin.r Vniar/e — Firnf Spcciinfii, of domestic Life amoncj the Iiuinitu — Fcmnlc Tonjucs (jood Cleaners: — The, Aiujeko's Poircr — Miisleries of fiuinU Worship— Choice of Wires — Curious Githle Poles to Travellers — Cliorliifs Independence of Amjcko — Shiit hesel in the lee — Sudden Moreotenls nf llie Ice — Frozen in — A Bear-hunt — Visit the Tuple of Ehierhinej — Scarril;/ of Innuit Food and Fuel — The Fsquimaux Lamp — Patience and Pcrscvcra iice of ail Innuit Hunter — An lijluo. \ V Ti- ,' i At this time I frequently paid visits to tlio Esquimaux village, and one trip I find recorded in my journal as follows: — " Octuhcr 30. — After dinner a boat was sent from the sliip to obtain some fresh water at the head of the bay, and I availed myself of the opjiortunity to j;j on shore. Sniilli had charge of the boat, and in less than an lif)ur we arrived at a beautiful little harbour, two and a half miles distant northwesterly from the vessel. Here there was a com]ilete Esquimaux villagi?, and all the inhabitants, men, women, children, and dogs, rushed out to meet us. Our crew con- sisted of five white men, and each of them soon engaged a native to carry watcir to the boat, while he himself sought amusement among the tents. Smith and I Avalked on ior about an eighth of a nule to the lakelet where the water was- obtained, and put the Esquimaux fairly to work. We then returned, and called at one of the tents. Smith, being first, intended to ])ass in, but had no sooner lifted the folding door (pendent skins) and introduced his head, than he rapidly Avithdrew it again, exclaimiug, ' Whew ! By thunder, I'm not going iu there ! It's crowded, and smells horribly. IIuw it looms up !' He then turned aM-ay, but I, having more induce- ments to bear the infiiction, determined to pass in. " Bowing down almost to a horizontal position, in went head, shoulders, body, and all. The next second I found KSt.iUlMAUX DISH IX 171 myself butt up ag.ninst a dozen' Ksquiniaux, all lusty fellows, iuul crowded together in a heap, each armed with a knifi; ! But there was no cause for alarm. The knives were not for any warlike or evil purpose. They were being used sim]ily for cutting oft' strips of seal, to be shoved into the widely- extended mouths of the hungry jjeople before me. Quite at the back of the tent I perceived my Es(iuiniaux friend Koo- jesso seated between two pretty females, all three engaged in doing full justice to a di.sh of smoling-hut sml-hloodf Seeing me, Koojesse at first seemed abashed ; but, on my expressing a readiness to partake of any food they had to spare, one of the women immediately drew forth from the stew-pan about four inches of seal vertebra3, surrounded l)y good meat. I managed to eat the latter, and then determined to try the seal-blood. To my surprise, I found it excellent. "On first receiving the dish containing this Esquimaux stew, I hesitated. It had gone the round several times, being leplenished as occasion required ; but its external appearance was not at all inviting. Probably it had never gone through the cleairing process, for it looked as though such were the case. But I screw^ed up courage to try it, and finally, when the dish came again to those by my side, I asked Koojesse, 'Pe-e-uke?' (Is it good?) 'Armclarn/^, armdarng' (Yes, yes), was the reply. " All eyes were fixed iipon nw as I prepared to join with them in drinking some of their favoiirite soup. " Xow the custom of the Esquimaux in drinking seal-blood is to take one long s-o-o-o-p — one mouthful, and then pass the dish on to the rest till the round is made. I followed suit, and, to my astonishment, found the mixture not only good, but really excellent. I could not have believed it was so far superior to what my previous notions had led me to expect. "Seeing I was pleased with it, she who presid:.! at the feast instantly made ready a pretty little cup, which was clean outside and in, or clean as an Esquimaux can make it, and filled it with the hot seal-blood. This I sipped down i< ' 1 I! \\ i»' ■.:A W ir f ,i ■} M\ 172 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. v'ith as much satisfaction as any food 1 had catoii in my lifii ; and, in return for the friendly act of my Innuit hostess, I gave her a highly-coloured cotton handkerchief. She avus in ecstasies Avith it, and the whole conijiany joined with her in expressions of kindness and goodwill toward me. Clearly 1 had ingratiated myself with one ]>urty of the ]iatives here, and this I was determined to do in like manner elsewhere. " Soon afterward I left them, and crawling out of their tout on all-fours, passed through the village toward the beach. On the way I heard a voice calling out '^Mitter Hall — flitter Hall ; ' and, on turning round, perceived poor ' Blind George' I went to him, and found that he was in great trouble. lie tried to tell me all his grief, but with difliculty could he give utterance to his words. ' Ugarng,' said he, ' Ugarng home to-day ? !My pickaninny away go. Mitter Hall, speak-uin, my i)ickaninny — .speak-uui, my pickaninny here.' " The fact was that, as already .stated, Ugarng had got his child, and the poor blind man wanted her to be with him fur a while, I therefore spoke to I'garng, and often afterward little Kookooyer was seen by her father's side. " While in the village I called at another tent, and was treated to a liberal piece of ' black skin ' after it had been well cleansed of foreign substances by the free application of a lady's tongue ! " On Novendjer 10th I again visi*^ed the shore, accompanying the water-boat. We found the 'let frozen over, and that our ice-axG by mistake ha;^ oee. ..i"i ou board. This would have proved a great anncyimce to us, had not one of the Esquimaux (Charley) brought his seal-spear to our aid, and speedily opened a good-sized " well-hole." In helping to carry the water, I fell into line with the natives, joining them in their mirthfulness of heart as they went along. As we passed the tuples, every wt)nian and child gave a joyous sniilo and kindly word to the stranger. It Avas on this occasion, after 1 had been about two hours on shore, that T noticed something unusual had occurred. An excited crowd of natives were rapidly gathering round a young man who appeared to k j i ' i\ f a li \ i. \ <\ ; TIIK ANfiEKO. 173 lio franticnlly adclrcssinf;; tluim. Whatever liis object, I soon jierccived that lie contrived to greatly afl'ect his hearers. One moincnt he made them like ini'urinted demons ; at another, tlicy Avcrc melted to tears. Koi'^ they were clenching their fists, and gesticulating in a maddened way ; presently they were calm, and full of joyful re]iose. It was astonishing the liokl he had over the people round him. So complete was tills ])ower, that a simple mccion with the tip of his finger wm\d be followed by demonstrative movements on the part of the audience. An Escpiiraaux might be quietly enjoying a smoke, when a word from the orator would bring the pipe from the smoker's mouth to the speaker's ]'oiich, or into the man's own pocket, just as directed. I soon ascertained that the orator was an anrjcho, or wizard- man, and that his name was Minrj-u-mai-lo. Though young, he was very much credited by the whole population of that and the neighbouring village. As I approached, his eye soon caught mine, and immediately leaving his snow rostrum, he bounded like a deer toward me. With a face of innocence, and full of smiles, he grasj; 'd my hand and welcomed me to his magic home ; but, though returning the salutation in a friendly manner, I could not so cordially evince pleasure at his aequaintance as I generally did with others. It appeared to mo that he was one of those who lived upon the credulity and ignorance of his race, and this thought probably made itself perceptilde on my features ; at all events, in a moment or so he left me, and, throwing his arm round Ugarng's neck, he walked with him into a tent, whither they were soon followed by Charley and the rest of our hired water- carriers. Koojesse was of the number ; and, while I was looking on, much surin-ised, loud and exciting words were heard from within. Presently Koojesse came out ; and, upon my making inquiries, he told me, in a cautious manner, that th(> anrjcko was at work, as we should call it, exorcising and otlierwise performing various spiritual exercises ! Fearing to be considered intrusive, I walked away toward the boat, Koojesse again taking up his water-bucket and cou- ,■ I'. ;■ 1 174 LIFE WITH TlIK KSQl'IMAUX. I ! ' It' ■ ,: nj' :f : '■ ■■ I i. N tinning his work ; but hardly had I reached the handing-place when down came !Mingumailo Avith a proiid and excited ste}). He took me by the arnl and beckoned me to go with him. I did so, being desirous of witnessing some of the farther acts of this curious and important personage. We walked, arm in arm, toward what, though only a fcnt, I might well style his temple, for toward it several of his wor- shippers were bending their steps. As we passed along, Koo- jesse was seen in the distance with a bucket of water in eadi hand. In an instant, at one word, one motion of my com- panion, Koojesse, though otherwise a man of great intelligence and strong mind, left his water just where it was, and joiueil lis. On approaching the tupic, Mingumailo ordered Koojesse to go in lirst, and then directed me to follow. I did so liy falling upon my hands and knees, and, in this necessary posture, entered the abode of our Esquimaux prophet. The angoko followed, and immediately directed Koojesse to take a position on one side of the bed that was within, and me to be on the other side. Next to Koojesse was seated a pretty Estiuimaux Avoman, one of the nulianas (wives) of the angcko, tlu^ other wife — for he had two — not then being at home. Now conmienced the solenni exercises oT the peculiar wor- ship of these people. ^lingumailo sat facing us. He boi^nii by rapidly clapping his hands ; so rapidly, indeed, that it wns inipossibb to count the strokes. Then he accompanied this clajjping by some metaphorical expressions beyond the power of ordinary intelligences to divine"; and, indeed, no one but an angeko is considered capable of divining them. In fact, tlie word angeho signifies ' he is very f/reaf,' and this is given as a reason why none but cnir/rkos— the really great — sliouli^ understand. Of course, I demeaned myself accordingly, ami was as quiet and serious a listener as any one there. Occa- .sionally the (uujelv would cease his voice and the motion of Ids hands. Then all became still as death. Presently, witli renewed vigour he would recommence his services, patting his hands — which were moved around during the operation— now in a circle, now before my face, now before Koojosse's. MYSTERIES OF INNUIT WORSIIII', I7r. Another minute ho would pat the chest on which he sat, first on one end, then on the other, next on this side, tlien on thcit, afterwards on the top, and so repeating all the operations ac'ain and again. Every now and then, with his eyes staring into the farthest recesses of the tent, he would become fixed as marble, and looking quite hideous. At such times Konjesse Avas brought into active use. He was directed, as nuich by the angeko's signs as by the sudden and sharp words littered, to fix his eyes upon this point of the tent, then that, but more particularly to where it was said by the wizard, 'Kiullafjo's ftpirit shook the skin covcrinf/s.' " Poor Koojesse ! I could not help pitying him, though myself hardly able to control the laughter reigning within me. There he sat, large drops of perspiration streaming from Ids nose (Esquimau.v sweat profusely only on the nose), and as earnest as though life and soul were the issue. All at once came unusual efibrts. The climax was at hand. A grand finale was to take place, and this was done with a sprinkling of clear words in Escpiimaux, just enough ibr Koojesse and myself to understand. The angeko spirit spoke : ' He was in want. The kodhnia (u-hitc man) could relieve his wants. Would not the kodluna give the spirit one of the double- l)an'elled guns in his possession ? ' Tliis was enough. I saw through the solieme in a moment; but, though astounded at the impudence of the iiroposition, I lietiayed nothing to show surprise. I merely turned to Koo- jesse, and quietly asked if that was really the angeko's meaning. The reply, in subdued tones, was 'yes ;' whereupon I farther asked him if this man would be very useful in my future explorations to King William's Land ; and on being answered in the affirmative, I said aloud, ' Well, if Angeko goes with me next season, he shall have a gun — one of my best.' This made the wizard-man leap for joy ; for he thought, as [ after- ward found, that 1 meant to give it hivi at once. He griisped my hands, he threw his arms about my neck, he (lanced about the tent, and did many other extravagant thing-s, wliich showed his gratification on making such a trhnnph of K; I i. ' \ 17G LIFE WITH THE ESQl'IMAbX. • n. '.'1 M , -i !i:!. i. i \: lUII-li i :! skill and stratoj^y. Ho had, as ho chose to bolieve (tliongli I iinmoiliatoly explained, or tried to exvdain, that the gift was not iiitoiulod for the moment), accomplished a great feat in charming a Ivdlann into giving him a gnn as recognition of his magical power. So complete was his happiness, lliat he told mo 1 should have the choice of his two wives, all his tuldoo skins (reindeer furs) that I might need, and sealskins for making boots, and other articles in .abundance. That ho had great riches of this description, proliably obtained from his creduloiLs worshippers, was evident from the rolls of beautiful .skins 1 saw around me. While the angeko was thus expressing himself, his second wife came in, and quietly took a position near the household lamp, which she began to renew with fresh seal-blubber. This gave Mingumailo the ojiportunity to again press the offer of one of his wives to me. Ho bogged of me, there and then, to select either of them ; but I soon gave him to understand I was already supplied with a wife at home. This, however, neither satisfied his ideas about matrimony, nor, as it appeared, those of his wives ; for both of them at once decked themselves out in all the smiles and blandish- ments that they possessed. I asked them if they really coin- cided in the offer their husband had made, and was immediately told that they gladly did. However, I was about again de- clining the offer, when the angeko suiUksnly made a sign to Koojesse, leaving me alone with the proffered wives, i uttered a. few kind words to them, and, giving each a plug of tobacco with a friendly grasp of the hand, left the tupic and went toward the boat. On my way, and just outside the angoko's tupic, T noticed an oar of a kia stuck iipright in a drift of frozen snow. Upon it were suspended little packages done up in red woollen rags, differently and ingeniously arranged. On one side hung a portion of a well-dressed sealskin, beautifully variegated by parti-col ou red patches sewed on to it, as if for signs. I in- quired of several Esquimaux the meaning of this, but none would inform me till I met Koojesse, who said it was for a ill CHAIUJCY'S INDKPENDEXCi;. ( / j,'iiitlo to liny Innuit stranger trnvelliny tlmt way, unci \vlio was thus welcomed, as well as directed what to do. As soon as Koojessc had left the teut, he innncdiately set to work in completing the operation of hlling our water-cask. He had been told hy Captain ?> to Hnd, fill, and send oft' iiuother cask, left on shore during some stormy weather a few days back, and this ho now did by directing nearly the whole iuliabitants of the village to aid in the task. Every concf.'iv- aWo article possessed by the natives that would hold water, from a pint np to a gallon, was l)rought into retjuisition. Most (if the articles were made of tin, supplied by the various wlialing ships visiting Northumberland Inlet, but it would have puzzled a white man to detect any difference between their colour and a negro's. Some of the vessels, however, were made of ouh/ook skins, and were excellent affairs, water-tight, light, but strong, and in no danger of being broken or indented. As soon as the one cask in our boat was full, we were ready lor starting, Avheu it was ascertained that Ugarng and Kunniu were absent. Seeking for them caused some slight delay, and, meauwhile, Angcko began his tricks again. By signs he first ordered one and then another of the Esquimaux to do this and do that, and, with a single exception, all obeyed. The exception was Kooperneung (Charley), who, standing in the boat's stern, was smoking a pipe. He was told by the angeko to put away his pipe; but Charley, with the same sndling face that he generally possessed, laughed loud and heartily as he laid hold of his pipe, gave it a swing, and replaced it, smoking away as before. Evidently Charley was an Indcpemlent, though I imagined, from what 1 had seen of lum before going to the wizard's tent, that his bravado now was more because he was under present civilized rule than fium any real strength of iniud in the matter. The other natives pulling the boat were servilely obedient. At a signal from the angeko, who swung his arms on high, my lunuit crew tossed up their oars, and turned their atten- tion to the shore. There we saw him suirounded by the villagers, antl making signs for us to return. VOL. T. X 17H UFR WITH THR ESQUIMAUX. \i l« /• i !■ « I 'I \l :s IS Now lT<,'ariip; hud on his nocU a coloured kcnhieF, f^ivcii him by S(jnu,' civilized hand. This was stated by the anjjeko to be a j;Teat encninbiancc, ami would be bettor off than on— in liiet, Would be better in hi.s, the wizard's, possession, tliiiii the present holder's. Aecordinj^dy, with yreat reluctance, U<'arn<' unwound it from his neck and cast it on shore to his master. ^Mingumailo swung it proudly in the air, wound it around his waist, and expanded it between his outstretclicd liands, all the time making' his way t(nvanl the village like a conqueror, followed by his people ! After this we were allowed to depart, and iu duo time I got on board. " Kovcmhrr WfJi, 1860. — Last night the ice from the head of the bay set down n])OU the ship, completely closing us in. We arc now cut off, for the present, from all the woild. Wo cannot approach the land, nor can any one from the slioio approach us. This will continue until the ice becomes solid enough to make a pathway upon it." Such is the record in my jomnial under that date, and 1 here transcribe it to note the day when we were Jird " beset." The temperature at this time was + 5", and the weather moderate and clear. In the day it was cloudy, but we had the sun shining npon us for a few moments, to show me how prettily its soft light could play with the crystal white of the shi])'s rigging. Again and again did I look upon the scene, It was truly beautiful ! Hoar-frost crystals — ])iles upon piles of crystals standing out boldy to windward, six inches from the masts and rigging ! Two days afterwarti the ice had hardened sufficiently to form a good protection to the ship during a heavy gale that came on, and which probably would have driven us from our anchorage had we not been thus guarded. The next day, however, we had ojycn water all around its, the ice haviiii,' been broken and driven out to sea by a change of wind when the gale abated. But toward evening it again came in, thoagli not strong enough to inclosG us. Thus it continued setting iu from seaward until, on the 2'~k\, we were again fast bound am! FliOZKN IN. I7'.i ao time I M lirnily fixed 1)y n solid pack for tlic winter. To iiui the clianj^c sci'iuL'd almost luayical. At noon of Wednesday, 21st, we had liccn beddeil in ice that seemed fast for the winter. At G i'. M. of that day, in some places the ice hej^'an to j,'ive way. During the ensuing niyht all of it had left the harbour and bay. Morning of the next day saw us clear. At 3 l'. M. the wind lii'iug southerly, some piiices of \cv. were seen lloating toward IIS from sea, but still we were free. This morning of tlu; 2:id, liowever, tlu* harbour and bay, save a narrow channel of water, foniied one coniiilete mass of ice. Uj) to the extent of the, bay, I'uiuiing N.N.W. full lifteen nules from its entrance, all was ([iiito a solid pack, nuich of it live to seven feet thick, though in some parts only from one to three feet. The temperature of the sea water at this time was 2(1°, and tlie air 18° ; the barometer 29.05, and wind fresh from the west. On this day, finding it impossible any longer to use the beats, they were dismantled for the season. Nearly nine months must elapse before they can be useil again. Sunday, the 2otli of November, we had a heavy gale from the eastward, bringing with it a remarkably Avarm air (the tlu'iniometor 32°), and breaking up some of the ice in such a manner that one time we expected to be driven out to sea with it. We were, however, presctrved by the pack in one portion remaining firm, and thus giving us a shelter, though not more than a hundred yards from where the disruption \\as taking place. On the 1st of December there was a great calm, lasting till the 4tli ; but finally, on the Gth of December, wo were no longer under any doubt as to being well secured in the solid ice for the winter. In all directions, the harbour ami bay were completely frozen over. On November 24th I had my iirst sight of, and encounter with, a polar bear. I was engaged writing in my cabin, when ii shout was heard on deck, " A bear ! a bear ! " and imme- iliately relinquishing my pen for the ritle, I went up and joined a party who started in chase. Sterry and the Escpiimaux Ugarng had already gone off to N 2 ISO I, hi: with tin" hsiM'IM.m'x. I ' 'f ' > d i h till' liuiit, and I i'ii|)i(lly rnlloucil, iiccniiipiinii'tl liy "Clmilcv," while (ill the niitivcs tliiit liail been on liounl, ami .scvciii! ol' tlio sliip's civw, caiuo after lis. Tlio Ihmiv took a diiuction near the Island uIktc my tlo^>t had lieni jilaiod, niid the liowliiiy they niado was truly tcrriMc. As Cliarlcy and i ncnred one of llii' outer islands, alumt half a mill' from tho ship, baiij,' went the first gun. Tlun ii second ro]>ort, and soon afterward I could see tho hear relront- injf across a channel to another island, lie had received soino severe wounds, for blood was pouring (ait on either side of him, crimsoninj; his white coat and the ice beneath. Tlic channel was covered over with ice that ajiiJcared too frail for us to make i)assn^(' n]»on. Down throuj^h this ice every now and then the bear would plunge. T.ut soon returning to tlu' same hole, he slid himself out of it u])on tho ice in a very sprawling, but to me interesting manner. Once out, lu* iiii- nicdiately rose upon his haunches, knocked his tormentors (the Es(piiniaux tlogs) to the right and left with his fore paws, and then ran on. I'ut the dogs were again upon his track, surrounding and cutting off his retreat to the shore. Thus we were soon up with him, though keeping at a rcisjiectl'ul distance from tho wounded prey. Charley desiring to try his hand at my ritle, and knowing he was a good marksman, I allowed him to do so. He fired as tho IjCcar was again on his haunches engaged with the dogs. The shot took elfuct in his breast, and the brav(; beast fell kicking and tiunblin^'; but, after a moment's strungle, was once more on his fed again, Hying away. ^Forgan, of our shi]), now tried his douhli- barrel, with three bullets in each, l;)ut both barrels missed iiiv. Another shot was then tired, and this time the bear tunililcil over, as we all thought, (had. A cheer from us followed ; hut hardly had our voices died away, when the poor beast was again on his feet struggling to get off, white men, Esquimaux, and dogs all after him. Once more a heavy charge — thistiun' from !^[organ's gun — went into him, striking his face and eyes, and down went Bruin " dead figain." One cheer was givon, then another commenced, when, lo : as if the nni.se had revived CO cvevy now iirninj? to tlic ico ill a Yt'vy out, lii^ iiii- is tovnioutovs his fove pnws, Mill liis track, shoiv. Tims t a resiiofti'ul I'iug to try lii-* )d luarksuiau, !av was n;j:aiii hot took oU'ect mi\ tiniililiiis ; •G on his tV'i'l t'd his (loiilik- ■els inissocl iiiv, 3 bear tuiuhk^d 1 followotl ; liut )oor beast was 3n, Esquimaux, artje — this tiiiu' ■i face and eyes leer was givou, ■>i?e had rcvivcl A lll'Alf irCNT. IHl liiiii, tlio bvdto, .m'l'iiiiiii^Iy with its iiiuiiy lives iis ii cut is suid to have, went nil' ii^i'iiiii, rumiiiij:,' I'ft'hly, Init still with .sninc K'liiaiiiiiij,' vij^oiir. Spcnrs wen- now tlir(t\vn at him hy tho natives, but these relMumdeil IVum his tniiL;h hide, ]>rovin^' iis harmless to Inm iis tnolji-pieks. Oiico more ho was down. Then ruisiiii,' his heiid, and !iHikiii<,' round upon his Uwn, which luiiidiered u full score without iiicliidiiiLi' the dnyM, he seetned ns if pre])iiriii;,' tor the PKAIt HINT— " TArPINil THF. jnJt'l.All." last fight and doath-spring. It was a dangerous moment, and so all felt. But now was the time for me to try my hand Hitherto I had not fired. This, then, was the moment to do so. I stepped out, and placed the hair-trigger as it should be, and levelled my gun. " Shoot at his head I give it him in the skull ! " was the cry of those around ; but I watched my opportunity, and, when he gave a certain downward throw of his head, tirod, tapping tho jugidar vein. It was enough. One convulsive move- ]|< ',■» I 1 I h i'ffi H J ]} '^. :i:i U.I I ; i.S l, 1 s * I i m ! I'i Hi ,5 T: '! i ill ...ji ',.1 Ji '!i M ■ 1.S2 LIFE WITH I'lii-: KsciunrAfX, mcut, as the 1)lood oozed out from the keen cut made by my vitlo ball, and the life of the polar bear was ended. The next task was to ,uet the carcass on board, and at first we intended to drag it there. A Hne of suflicient length was upon the ground, ready for placing round the bear's ULck ; but this was finally abandoned, as his weight (near that of an ox' woukl break through the treacherous ice around the islmid where we were. It was then decided that the Esc^uimaux should .skin the animal on xhe spot, (juarter it, and thus cany it piecemeal to the ship. Accordingly, we left them to tlie task, and had not long been back to our cabins when tlie prize arrived, the carcass still smoking hot, though the skin was already frozen stiff. I should mention that, as soon as the hear was discovered, Ebierbing hastened after it with his dogs, which were regu- larly trained to keep bears in check until rifles and .speius should arrive. The dogs which I had brought from Green- land never had been " educated " i'ov bear fights, therefon' they seemed to act upon the ])rinciple that " distance lends enchantment to the view " by getting upon the most dis- tant and highest part of the island on which the bear was killed. As regards the use made of our prize, I have only to siiy that we divided it with the Esqiiimaux, and had a capital tlinner off a portion of our share. I liked it better than the best of beefsteaks. A day or two after this bear-hunt I paid another visit to North Star village, accompanied by Ebierbing, who took \w direct to his tuple. After passing on all-fours through tlu' low snow-passage which he had made, leading to the interior, I found myself facing Tookoolito, seated near a lamp, and her- self covered with skins, she having lieen taken sick on the liisl occasion of visiting our ship, IMittens, boots, stockings, and articles of clothing, all in a wet state, were on the " dry not " that always hangs over the lamp, but on this occasion the lamp was not performing its usual heat-giving functions. Owing to the backwardness of the cold season in freeKing uji Vw E,S(,>UrM\UX STONK lAMl'. IS,'. the bay, tlie coiulitioii of the natives from M'ant of l)lul)l)ov and fond was in an alarming state. ^lany of tlicm could have no frii'ndly lamp to give light and heat. The Esquimaux lamp is the " all in all " to these ])eople. r>y it their igloo is lighted and kept warm ; by it they mc^ll ice or snow for their drink ; and by it they dry their clothing, niitten.s, boots, stocking.s, Ac. Without lh(» haup, Esquimaux could not live — not so much because of its warmth or use for cooking, but because it enables them to dry tlu'ir skin clothing, melt ice for drink, and gives them light during the long arctic night of winter. KOOD-LIN AND IK-Kr-JIKH. the Stone L.aiiii) and Fiiv of the Esquiiiiiinx When I called upon Tookoolito the lamp was without oil, and coidd not give either suflicient light, heat, or drying jiower, hence the melancholy aspect of her otherwise hapi)y abode. Ebierbing, however, intended very .soon to make a sealing excursion, and obtain blubber at any risk. When obliged, Esquimaxix do not hesitate in undergoing the greatest privations to get food for their families. They will watch over a sea-hole for one hour or fifty, if need be, in the coldest weather, waiting for the seal to come iip and breathe. Kudlnpn in this manner caught the first seeds of the complaint which carried him off. His ftimily were starving ; and after bearinf} the pain of seeing them suffer for a few days, he could endure it no longer. ITe went out in ' til ". 18^ ton years old, siccompaiiitid liiiii, and 1 was much aiiiuscd witli tlie iiiiiiblo way in which she undid and then rehraided lu'i' hair. The use of a comb slic did not know until 1 gave lior one and showed her. As ibr tlie father, I found him very iutellij^ent, and, through Tookoolito, who acted as my inter- liretor, lie gave me much geographical information. Another of oui- visitoi's was Pnfo, the mother of a I'-Jii/i diiUl. This woman had once been considered handsome, and even now showed some signs of her former beauty. Shc^ was about 35 years old, and, though she had a hard tijno of it iilone, supporting herself and cliild, yet she was generally cheerful, smart, kind, and industrious. On one of my visits to Tookoolito's igloo, Puto with her child was there, and T then witnessed the operation — very rarely performed — of washing a child's face. This was done by Ucliwj it all over, imich as a dog wouLl do the hand that had just contained a fresh beefsteak. She did this twice while in my presence^, and the true colour of the child's face was then more clearly seen. Owing to some cause or other which I could only sunniso, Puto suffered more from various privations than the other women. She was often a week with hardly anything to eat, and, in conseqiience, her poor child was nearly starved. On the occasion I now refer to, after I had left the igloo and wandered about to other dwelling , I came across Charley and El)ierbing, just arrived with a sledge-load of frozen krang, whale-meat, for the dogs. Puto at the moment also came to the spot, and immediately asked for some. They gave her about twenty-five pounds of it ; and this she slung on her back, along with a pack of equal weight already there, besides the child ! Ye mothers of America ! what say you to taking an infant, besides an additional pack of fifty pounds on your back, and starting off on a tramp of several miles — such was the distance to Vuto's home — with the thermometer 40° or 45" below the freezing point ? This, however, reminds me that at the same time T was ! ' li t i n \ i ^l»L i 'I I 5 - H l.ss ]AFK WITH THE ESl^UIMAUX. ■I :i fe!/ ■ ! i { .ilii ! a ' * n\ oLliged t,(t be very careful, and ospociully of my nose. An instance liad already occurred — a few days previous — of lerably "liberal" for them, particularly as they were rather scarce. I obtained n native jacket for a knife, two small .skins for another knife. and some powder, and a good deerskin for more powder, buck- shot, and caps. ^NFany of the natives had guns, obtained from the wlialers of Northumberland Inlet, either by barter or as returns for sennces rendered. 1 could not, at that time, get all I desired in the way of Innuit apparel, thoiigh it was use- less to attempt travelling in any other costume, as nothing but that could withstand the cold ; but fi-om my first arrival I hail been obtaining several articles, and thus I was now tolerably well supplied. About this time, and toward the end of November, T was much astonished at the changes in the temperature. On tlu' I9th the thcrmoraeter, on this glorious fair and calm nioin- ing, was — 20", barometer 30.175. Cold indeed ; by tlier- momoter, 52" below the freezing point. Yet so calm was the weather, that to my person it seemed no colder than at the commencement of the season, when the thermometei' indicated 32' above 0. But let a smart breeze spring up coming from the N.W. then how like hot iron it will Inxrnl The weather Avas such that, unless we soon had snow, the ice would freeze thick and solid througliout the regions. Snow upon the ice serves to keep it urcrui, the same as snow on the ground in the Northern States of America. In my journal at this date I find as follows : " I have just lieeu out walking and running, exposing myself, my face and IfiLOOS IX RUINS. litl Imiuls, to the cold air. A light hreezo prevnilin<,' from N.W. I am contident tlu'vo is .soiiu'thing yet to be discovered relative to air and cold. The hinuan system in not such a linr as three excellent thermometers 1 have would make it, if I gave full credence to their story this morning. ^ly three thermonmters siuy 20" below zero, and yet far greater exposure now than at (itlier times with a higher register of temperature, leads to no unpleasant results. I am aware moisture in the air makes a great difference as affecting the human system ; but a fact is n /■('(■/. The cold air from the same direction — etiually clif.rged with aqueous matter at different times — shows a differer ce of ten to twenty degrees in the thermometer ; and yet the air at the lowest temperature affects the human system less than the highest. " Di'ccmhcr 20th, 5.l')0 a.m. — Thermometer — 5^ barometer 30.200. Wind vcnj lii/ht, N.W. Yet there must be a storm prevailing not ar from us, as a tremendous roar of waters and iiacking of ice comes fronr the direction r)f Davis's Straits. The ice around the shore of this harbour is constantly 'singing,' indicating that a heavy sea is now affecting us even hero . . . 7 A.M. the Avind wont round to the N.E. when it commenced snowing ; thermometer 4°, barometer ."iO.lOO. At 10 p.m. we liad the thermometer 14° above zero, barometer oO.OoO, wind N.E. blowing a gale, the ice breaking up in Field Kay, and itlso in our harbour. " Friday, Dccnnhcr 21.s7, — Thermometer 21'' above zero, liavometer 30.012. Wind light from east. The bay is nearly dear of ice. ^V^lat little there is fastens up oiir harbour. The weather is too warm for the igloos ; they have com- menced dripping. If tlie like continues, down will come ijuow-honses. Sdtnrdai/, December 22d. — The thermometer is actually + o2V ; barometer 30.100. Wind N.E. During the night considerable rain fell. The nativ(!S are in sad plight. There has been not exactly a conjlaf/raticm in the Esquimaux village, hilt disruption, and a melting down. Nearly every igloo is in mills, owhig to the unexpected .storm of rain. Sttme have !i| f '1 I 1 1 1 ' ' 1 ; . ■ 1' 1 J 1 '\i ;i 1 \ f 1 192 LIFE WITH THE KSQUlMAUX. ' \ i ' fallen, others about to. The iiuui Innuits are busily fii<,Mj,'i(l in erecting outer walls, tilling in snovv between th»^ old mid the new. I visited nearly every habitation, and found the natives exclaiming, ' 2>r-o)if/-c-too / pe-ong-e-too ! ' — bad! bad I ' Kiiri/'foon ' — very hungry, "At Ebierbing and Tookoolito's there was great distress Their igloo was nearly destroyed. In the night the whole of the dome had fallen in, covering their bed, fur.s, dresse.s, &c. in wet snow. Ebierbing was busy in making a canvas tent over the ruins, while Tookoolito cleared out the siunv from beneath, lie was wet through, and had not a dry skin iijion his back, having been out all the morning tryini,' to save his igloo from the almost universal ruins around him. "Dec. 2'2t/. — Ilaining hard throughout this day, with occa- sional sleet and snow. Tookoolito visited the ship, and ujion her return I let her lifive an umbrella, which, though she well knew the use of it, was really a novelty to others of hor people, who considered it a ' valkintj lent' "The extraordinary mildness of the season has caused a most sad state of things among the natives. They caniKil obtain their accustomed fo(jd by sealing, as the ice and colil weather alone give them the o])portunity. Hence in many of the igloos I have seen great distress, and in some I noticed kelp (sea-weed) used {or food. " Whenever 1 visited the natives, such small quantities of food as I could spare from my omu slender but necessary stock were taken to them, and on one occasion 1 gave Tookoolito a handful of pressed 'cracklings' which I had brought with me from Cincinnati. They were given me by ii friend there for dog-food, and I can now record the fact that Chicinnati pressed ' cracklings ' made as rich a soup as ever 1 had eaten." The preceding extracts from my diary about the weather, and its effects upon the condition of things, around me, will show that almost the very existence of these children of the icy North depends upon the seasons being uniform with tin' time of year. The high temperature we had experienced, ( intlST.MAS AND NI.AV YKAU'.S DAV. l!i:', lidwcver, (litl iKit htiiM; ciiiitiiiuc'. A fuw days iil'tcrwind, mi till' :')()th fil' Deconilicr, tin- tlicrinoinotor wm down to zero; ami (111 tlu' nth of .Famiiiry it was sixty dc^^rccs below IVccziii;^' pniiit! Tlie l)ay and liailioiir Imd ayain liocu coated over witli solid ice, and parties (»!' iiinuits wen' out in all directions ■^nil-lmntinj,', liut with sneli slight success that several of them departed for other ([uarters, where they hoped seals would lie more ahundant. Anion.u,' these were Tifarng and his lannlv. Tlicy started for Cornelius (Jrinnell I'.ay, Imt, before leaving', a few cakes of hard biead were given them, that the ]»arty mij^ht liavc somethin<;' to fall back \ipon in case of success not M lowing immediately. it was not long, how(!Ver, bi'forc ligarng returned very sick. He left in the morning, and arrived at the shii) about 4 I'.M. thus making a rapid journey on his sledge of about forty miles. Two days afterwai'd, having received extra aid ami medicine, ho once more started, and, as will be jiresently related, when I made an excursion to where he hail gone, I found him busily engaged sealing. Among the other incidents to be menti(med as occurring about this ]ieriod of my narrative, I nnist not forget to say tliat Chri.stmas and Xinv Year's Day were cidebrated by ns in our winter quarters with all the honours it was in our power to show. A few of the natives were on board to dine on (-'hvistmas Day, and 1 took the oi>]»ortunity to give Tookoolito a Bible that had been placed in my hands by the Young Men's Christian Union of Cincinnati, ami which I thought ;agt'(l ill writiiij,', in tlio uiidst u\' tlic slt'('))iii<,' foims of Ksipiiiiiau.v iiiailu wanii niul Iiaitpy lor Ihn iiiylit in imi main cabin. I'tuiloiif/fr (ISlind fli'orf,'^) and \m little. ;;irl, Kookooyc!!', were tiu-re, well wiaiiped \i\>, aiul Kininiilnn, in my slce|)in^' ]>\\'^, was a.->leeit on a sea-eliest. Kooji'sse iiinl his wile Tunukderliiii wi've in my liertli, and two otlur Ks(ininiau.\ were on the caliin lloor. Kbierhing and TooUouliiu were (»u sboiv in their own iglo(», and it was to them tliiil, ni liaif-pa.st ."» A.M. I made my lirst New Year's "call." Various other "calls" were naale, all with a view to ,sonu' beneliriiil result, and, it' possible, to do (be poor people good in tliL'ir then wretched state, and throughout the day sundry uiuiii- I'e.stations among ouv own men were given, akin to tlmsi' adopted at home. On this day, January 1st, 1 jt;lly that had been given mo by loved ones lit home. I left the .ship, and, after crossing some very broken ami dangerous ice, which formed a .sort of unstable and di.sjoiatud causeway, arrived at the village during the morning. I askiil Tookoolito to acc(tmpany na", which she cheerfully tlid, ami together we went to the tuple of Nukertou. She had been left alone in her sickia-ss, all uneared fur, as was custoaiarv, I regret to say, with the Es(|uimanx ■when any of them wiiv helph'ssly ill. The i)oor woman was very glad to see me, but she \\i\^ mi ' I i i I HICK NTKKItTOi*. If): (»f JlU\Ul\l \ yxnyi, ftniii-i i^ht in imr Uttlo ll' ii»'J''l us StilVtlill^ tn ,voman, chUlhI ■vi't'on' ilt'ti'V- -diciiK', uiul a oveil OIK'S ill ry biokou luitl iiul (lisjoiuiftl iiing. I iislu'tl ri'ully (lid, iiiul She liivtl Ijt^'ti" 1V8 (.'ustoiiiiivy, of tlu'iii wciv jut she wiis Ml wciik and sutlerod ho iinicli tlmt slic could liardly iiiovf. I <;iivt( hor riu'diciiu', wliicli sdini relieved her, and for this I icceived nuiny llinnks; Imt I thonght lier end near. T could see hy her wasted I'driii and utter prostration that she liad not leiig to live. I'erhnps, had whc received snch early uttontion from her own jwoplu ns is sliown among families in civilised life, she might have survived ; Imt from no oiut did she get iliis, and only by chance did her illness reach my eiirs. I liiive lu'foro mentioned her kindly natnre, (jver ready to ill) imything she could for all of ns on hoard without looking for fee or reward, and, so long as she had strength, she was to 1)0 seen at some friendly task ; but her iil)sence was not par- ticidnrly noticed, owing to the fact that innuits are of a cliiiificter so thoroughly indepcjndent that tluy come and g()th, 1 find tlie following in my journal (•oiiLerning her :— "Invited Tookoolito to go with me and make a call \i\)nn sick Nidvertou. AVe found her as yesterday. J had a talk with her, Tookoolito acting as inter])reter. What a scene for my memory! Therc^ sat Kokerzhun before her fire-lam]), drinking in every word, as Tookoolito interjnvted to sick Xnkertdu what I had requested to he said. Tookoolito went on talkinj^ to Xukertou all that T had taught her of (Jod, Christ, heaven, the good, &c., and there slie stood, weeping over the form of her whom we all love as a sister — noble Nukertou. "After this interesting interview Tookoolito and Kokerzhnn proceeded to the vessel, while I went to the former's iglini, and obtained my spirits of camphor for the purpose 'f laviiiu the temples of Xukertou. Here I remained, chafing the IkiI. tattooed brow of this afllicted but resigned Esqiumaux — heri I remaini'd alone with this dear one, wliose s])irit may .suou be in the presence of God and angels. Oh that she inay gn to that happy land where all is rejoicing, and the .song is, ' Clory to God in the highest !'" The day but one afterward I paid my usual \ isit Ui Xidvcrtou, and found that Shimerarchu was building a new igloo for her. I'pon inquiry, I found that it was to be Im- liriiKj tdinh ! I was thunder-struck. A living tomb! Ainl so, Tookoolito said, .according to custom, it must be ; and su it was, On the 4th of January, I.Sdl, Xukertou was removed to the new igloo. She was carried thither upon reindeer skins liy four women, who took her in through an opening left for tin' ])Ui'pose at till' hdi'l', not by the usual entrance. Snow blocks were then procured, ami the aperture well closed, while a wonnin .sloo(l by iuid nave instruction what to do. An mili- f'lJUKT. ahaxdonment. 197 iiiiry entrance was tlien made, and, as soon as completed, I went into the igloo. Nnkei'tou was eahn, resigned, and even tliankfnl lor the change. Of course she knew that it was to be her torn!) ; hut she was a child of her people, and as she had now become a helpless burden to them, with only a few days more to live, it set-med to me that she took it as a matter of right and justice, and no one could object. Therefore she was thankfnl that her last moments were being so carefully seen to. A new igloo of stainless snow, a well-made bed of the sanie material, where she coidd breathe her last, wonld make her lew remaining hours happy. True, she would be alone — for such was the custom of her people — but she did not fear it. She was content, and appeared cheerfully resigned. It may be asked by some, AVhy did I not try to prevent such an outrage upon the feelings of any Christian ])eison i If so, I re])ly that 1 did try to get her on board the shi]), but I .soon found in no one thing are the native tribes more sinsitive than interference with their superstitious rites and ceremonies, especially in relation to death. Hence it might have been most un^\ise, even if possible, to havi> taken N^ukertou on board. Therefore I did my 1 test fiU' her in (he inloo, where she would have been literally entombed alive,* liut lor my request to attend upon her. Un the 8th of January she died ; and as the incidents connected with her death were very striking, 1 will trans(!ribe IIk'Ui iVom my journal as ente.re'ing. Xo call from her familiar voice could arouse a recognition from the one who was now about to dejiart. Alas, for us ! Xukertou was snrely on her way to the land of spirits. " Tookoolito, remaining here as long as M'as reqnired, and finding the change going on with Xukertou was by slow degrees, returned to her igloo, leaving me and Koodloo with Nukerton. In one hour I left Koodloo alone in charge, and stepped over to Ebierbing's for a few moments. Upon my return to Xukertou's, A^diat was my astonishment when 1 found the igloo sealed up — blocks of snow placed lirndy in and around the entrance-way. It seemed to tell me that i-liu was dead. I had but a short time before learned it to be tin' ii.sual custom among the Innuits, when one of their number is dying, for all to retire from the igloo or tupic, whichever it might be, and not return to it. P.ut I thought, 'After all, perhaps not dead!' I threw back block after block nf tmspotted snow, till at length I made my way into the main igloo. " Xubr/oii tins not dead! .She breathed, and was mueli ',% i ; ti 1 was iiuidi A .LIVIN<; TOMB. 199 .about the same as when I last saw her. I clctenuiiu'd then to remain, doing what 1 coultl to smooth the pillow of the (lying. The lamp was nearly out ; the cold was intense, the thermometer outside being oT below the freezing point ; and though. 1 had on the Esquimaux dress, it was with dillieulty I could keep my blood from congealing. There I was, the lone, silent watcher of a dying Ks([uimaux, encircled within snow walls that wen; soon to become her tomb. Thank Uud 1 was there ! It did my st)ul good to hold ct)mmunion with high heaven at such a time. It did me good to be where angels, just from heaven, came to greet and bear away a soul [iiccious to God. What a scene I Indeed, to me it was one that has become inelTaceably fixed on memory's tablet. "About twelve, midnight, I heard foot,steps approaching. .S(ton the sound as if the entrance was being closed up again. 1 thought. Can it be that I am to be imprisoned here, doomed to have this //?// living tond)? I listened a while. 1 found it true that I was being .shut up as though dead. Of course those who were doing this knew not I was there. At length 1 died out ' Turbar 1 turl)arl' Stop! stop! At this, nil was again silent as the (/rare for a moment. 1 then said, ' Ki-ete ' — come in ; and in came the two who were performing tlie la.st sad act of ri!S])ect to the deail. But what shall I say of llicir last act to the llviiuj ! The two ]iroved U\\v Koodloo and a woman called Kuo-uii-lc-((riii/, or tSirJii, as we named licr. Here they remained half an hour with me, then departed. I was again alone with the dying Escpumau.x. Xearer and nearer drew her end. Coldness was creeping over liiT. indeed, 1 found the cold taking hold of me. The native lamp, which serves for light and lire, had ceased from want of blubber or oil. There was only my lantern-lamp to give light, and the oil of this was kept lluid by the caloric of my encircling hands. "During the day my fur stockings had become damp from licrspiration, therelbre my feet were nearly frozen. J-Acry- lew minutes I was necessitated to Jump and thrash myself — 111 ilo innlliing I could to keep my lind)s from frostliiles. ! 'l<'. Th«l b/,- is the ]Vor>t of God. It tells < i >'\ I 'J , \ ]]" \ . n ■\-' y '■ \i iv ■ 202 LIKK WITH TDK KSt,»L'IMArX. you and me — cvovybody — to visit the sick, the nftlicted, the widow, the helpless, the poor.' "Kindly 1 proceeded, to the best of my ]»oor al)ility, to show her wherein it was wrong thus t(j leave the sick — the dying. Her astonishment at what I said seemed as great Id her as was mine at her recorded remark, louring this ii'inov- tant conversation, allusion was made as to working on tuktdn furs during the season of catching walrus. It is a fact thai, when the Innuits begin to catch walrus, no work is done on reindeer skins ; therefore all winter clothing is made up before any attempts are made to get walrus. The reasons wJiy will be stated some time hereafter. " In my arguments with Tookoolito I told her it was not to be wondered at that she and her people believed many un- reasonable things, when there had been no one to teach them better — no one to tell them of the TUble. 1 told her that some people of America and in England believed a great many ridicuhms things, but that did not make them true ; told lier that I only wished to do her good ; that wlu'uever 1 coulil kindly show where they — her pt'ople — were doing wrong, I should do s(j ; that if she or her peo[)le could prove to me her or their ways were all the best, then 1 would be one to do us Innuits did. After this interview mider the snow roof of the dying, 1 heard Tookoolito, in her igloo, earnestly engaged in telling her wing-a all that 1 had told her. They both seemed thankful i\n' what I had said," In connexion witii the preceding account nf Xukertou'.s death, and the Innuit customs referring to it, T may ]mv mention another occurrence sonxewliat similar, which took place about the same time. There was a sick native, whom T visited on two or three occasions, named Konpc ravelin, who suffered greatly from ulcers on the neck. His case was desperate, and no remedies we applied availed him. As his end a])proaclied, the ((nijdv took possession of him altogether, and when I once tiied to see the ])alient, all the natives assured nn' it would be useless while the angvko was there. Hul I dilermined In make iln' INXUIT SUPERSTITION. 203 trial, and, after some persuasion, ami as a great favour, was adiiiitted by the dying man's family. This time the angeko was a woman, and when T entered, her position was at the farther side of the igloo, with her back to iiR', but seated, cross-legged, luider a pile of skins. At her side was the [loor man, Kooperarchu, kneeling, and in a state of complete uudity^though snow and ice were above, beneath, and around him. At first 1 was startled at this ; bixt,ri'mendtering what great wonders have lieen and can be accomplished by a sick person's comijlete faith in his physician, I made no attempt at inter- feveuce except motioning for one of the brothers to place some c. 'ring over the patient's .shoulders. The angeko was constantly engaged in addressing sonio unknown sjiirit, doing it in as varied a way as could be well concciv^ed. The whole family participated in the scene, placing themselves in position, responding, ejaculating, ant! doing whatever the angeko required ; and all this with a solemnity that was particularly striking, so much so, indeed, that the exercises reminded me, in some respects, of what is known as a Methoilist " love-fea.st." When the exercises were through, the angeko turned round, appearing to notice me, and expressed surprise ; but T soon luoUiliod her rising anger by a slight present, which made her and the family very friendly. Notwithstanding all tlie efforts made by this angeko, they availed nothing in arresting the I'ajtid strides disease was making on this poor man's life. On the following day, myself being sicl' on board, 1 requested To()koolito to see the patient, and took to him certain medicines I gave her. She did so then, and likewise on the next day, remaining half an hour with him. Soon after she had returned to her igloo, "Jack," a brother of Kooperarchu, called and said the sick man was dying. Immediately Tookoolito went back, and, feeling his pulse, found it almost gone. Kooperarchu felt himself dying, and said to her, as, in our language, she explained it to me, "T jioing to die — I cannot help it — ! wish to die. INIy mother y 2(14 LIKK WITH THK KSiJUIMAUX. i \ h'J n H \ I 'ii\^- and lather in hoaihli-iKir-mi-nnn (tho Iiinuit licavcMi) — \ <;olii iin'ut tliom — 1 inust g(i — I cannot stop!" Slio asked him, '• Go now i " He rcidiod, " Ve.s." This was the hist word li.' spoke. Thus Kooperarchn died. Kooperarchu was buried soon after his death. His fri( i,ils and relatives wrapped him in two tuktoo skins and carricil iilni away. The frozen corpse was suf^ended across tlic shoidders of his brother l»y a strap jdaced under the arms ami across tlic breast, as one would carry a gim. Tookoolito lieaded the funeral train, and a married sister of the deceased, M'iih a younger brother, and a couple of dogs, besides some (if the natives, followed him to the grave. This grave was but n little distance fnjm the village, and merely consisted of ii recess made in the snow, with the same material piled over the dead body. ,^, A .' ; '■■ [!if ciiArrER XI. Iltiiiiili TiiirclliiMf nrrrliniil — lli2' X. h)!!','. 0)4" 44' \V. over hoid to Tuk-e-lik-e-ta Hny ; thence oii the sea ice to Itoyers's Ishmd, hit. 03° 12' N. h)n|;. 64° 32' W. 1» FIKSr NKUIT IN AN Ml.uo. 2(17 it went ovov tlirco or I'lmr u[' tlu' doj^s, who wevo unnbU' to keep alioiul of it, thougli luiiiiiiij; iit <^iviit spciMl. " I'y !j P.M. wo noiiivd tin- IVozoii Wiitci's of tlu; ocean, aft(.'i jmssinj;' over sonu; vovy abrupt and rocky <;round. Ou tlic margin of the Hca the clilfs were ahnost perpendicular, and it Wiis ii(!ce.srtary to /airrr tlie sledg(> tlown to the ice lieUiw. .Accordingly, the dogs were detached, and while Tookoolito, whip in hand, held ou hy their traces, which were from twenty to thirty feet knig, we lowered the sledge. The tide, however, was out, and it caused some dilHculty in getting on to the nuiin ice. At length all was safely accompHslKMl, and iiuce more we startetl on our way, Tookoolito again leading. Then we proceeded for about five nnles, when we came to an igloo out on the ice, which had evidently lieen erected and (iccapied the night before by I'garngand his party. Here we should have .stojiped ; but, as the igloo was too small for us, wc went on another mile, and then, linding good material for liuilding a snow house, we encamped at ~» p.m." Kbierbing and Koodloo at once commenced .sawing out sii(nvI)locks, while I carried them to a suitable sjjot for creeling the igloo, which took us one hour to make. Ami a right good one it was, as 1 soon found. The door sealecl uii. luid the cheerful lamp in full blaze, with a hot supper pre- piii'iiig, made me feel remarkably comfortalde, though in a house of snow, built so speedily u]iou the frozen surface of the treacherous ocean. F will here give this n\atter more in (lutail. Soon a.s the igloo was completed, Tookoolito entered and c'oiiunenct'd placing the stouts lamp in its proper position. It was then trimmed, and soon a kettle of snow was over it mukiiig water for cotfee and soup. She then proceedeil to lilace several pieces of board we had brought with us on the suoAv platform when^ our bmls were to be made. Upon these jiieces was spread the canvas containing some of that small ihy slo'ub I havi' already alluded to. Over this went the tiikto(( skins, and thus our sleeping accommodations wero ti'iiiplete. 2( i,S t.lFK WITH TUK i:s(^ri\l,\l X, tr I sliniilil iiifiiliuii tliiit uVfiy uitiflc nil tilt' Hlt'tljff is |»iihs(m| ill tlirmiuli ill! (ipi'iiiii!^ lit tlic Imck til" the ii,'I(>n, lop tlif imri»usc nf ('oiivcuiciici', Wiicii all is thus within, tlicii this (ipfiiiiij; is closed, mid a pi'o|it'r cntriinco miulc on the side opiuisiti' the ImiIs. The dof,'s nre Icl't (intsidc. The drviiiL;' of whatever has heeii worn diirinj,' the day, or whatever has heeniiie wet with j)ei's]iii'!ition, falls to the lot el' the " i^loo wile." She places the thiii;^s on the ///-//«-//*/ f;i not over Iho fii'o-lain]>), and thron;^di the niylit attends to tlic tni'iiin^' of thein, as occasion re(|nii'es. Her other diilii - consist in the repairin;.; of such clothiii,!,' as may he needed. Nothing is allowed to j^n one day without repair. Mvury- tliiny, wliero nnr is reipurcd, oven to pipes and tobacco, is idacod in the if,doo wife's hands — in this case, TookooUto's. These matters I ]»articularly noticed on the occasion of im/ Jirxl iiiackiugtlie sledge, we again started. Our ]U'oper course M'as due norlli, but, owing to Immmocky ice, we could not follow it. Iii truth, sometimes we were obliged to make a retrograde move- ment to get out of " a fix " that we were occasionally in aumiiL; icebergs and hummocks. Owing to this, we made but live miles direct toward our destination during tlie day. It had been expected that we could reach Cornelius Griii- nell P.ay in one day from the vessel, but too many ol)stacle.s existed to allow it, and thus a second night came upon us \ sToiiM-norNn. 2(1!) wliilc still iiiinii the frozen sea. A storm wns iilso gatlicviiiji:, iiiitl its davknes'- with tlii! Imwliii^ wind, which had eliangcd iKini oil" the land to ri^ht updii it, was loiubodin;;'. Wc were likowiso nnieh wearied with the day's labours, and it was some time alter we stopited befon; a suitable ]tlace was found and (lur second i;,'loo ereet(Ml. At len;^th, though long after dark, \v(! were conifdrtably located, enjoying u hot supjier beneath the snowy dome, the fouudatioji of which rested on the fro/cn siim;m i'iuni. i;n( ami'Mfnt i>n Tin: Fim: in K.wis-i siiiMix, MNTMIV llTII AMI IJTII, l-^lll. bosom of the mighty deep. r>ut not too soon were we under shelter. The storm had Inirst in all its fury, and we could hear the wind roaring outside as we warmed ourselves within. All night long the gale continued, and the next morning — the third of our journey- -it was found impossible to go on. li was blowing a strong gale, and continued so all day, with snow in impenetrable thickness. AVe were therefore obliged to keep inside our shelter, wrappi^d in furs. voi,. T. r ri . t ^ k '^. 1^' . M. 210 LII'K WITH TlIK I'.Sl^UlMAUX. I < 1fi! i I i' . • '1 f i ' ^; V \ i 1' i ■ i "! 1 1 * i While thus detained, J took tlie opportunity to have my hair cut by Tookoolilo. It had gi'own to a great length, even to my shoulders, and I now found it very inconvenient, ^My beard, whiskers, and moustache were also shorn nearly close to my face. In musquito time they were serviceable, but now they had become quite an evil, owing to the masses of ice that clung to them. Indeed, on tlie previous night 1 had to lose a portion of my whiskers. They had become so ice- locked that I could not well get my reindeer jacket off over my head, therefore 1 used my knife, and cut longer attachment>i to them. I may here mention that, after this, when we vacated tlic snow-house, our dogs rushed in to devour whatever they could find, (Urfcdihlc or not digest ihlc, and my locks were a portion of what they seized. In went my discarded hair to fill up tlieii empty stomachs ! A few days later, I saw the very same hirsute material, just as clipped from my head, lining a step leading to another igloo, having passed through the laby- rinthiau way from a dog's mouth onward. About 4 P.M. Ebierbing ventured outside to see how matters looked, but h:. soon returned with the astounding news that the ice vas hiTah'/iff, (indiratcr had appeared not more than ten rods south of lis / I looked, and, to my dismay, found that n crack or opening extended east and west to the land, distant about three miles ! The gale had evidently set the sea in lieavy motion somewhere, and its convulsive throbs Mere now at work underneath the ice close to and around us. It still blew very liard, but as yet the wind was easterly, and so far good, because, if a nearer disruption took 'lace, we should ln" forced toward tlie land, but if it changed to north or noitli- west, away to sea we must go and perish ! Seriously alarmed, we consulted as to what was best to (h — wh(>ther at once to hasten shoreward, or remain in the igloo and stand the chance. On shore, nothing but rugged preci- })ice8 and steep mountains preso?ited tlienrselves ; on the ice, we were in danger of our foundation giving way — tliat is, of being broken up, or else driven to sea. At length we decided PERILOUS SITUATION ON THE ICE. 211 ) have i»\ 'iigth, even lieut. ^ly irly close to .e, but now issos of ii't' ;ht 1 liad to mie so ice- jlou as we saw it, fresh efforts weiv made to get nearer, but we foiuid our passage niore and more ol structed by the broken, upturned ice. Often the sledge was carried onward by making it leap over these impediments, sometimes from one point of ice to another, and at others down and up among the broken pieces. Finally we succeeded ill reaching the shore ice, which we found all safe and sound. and in a short time more we were alongside of Ugarng's igloe, encamped on the southwest side of Rogers's Island, overlook- ing Cornelius Grinnell Bay and the mountains surrounding it. Immediately I ran into Ugarng's igloo, and obtained somr water to drink, for I must mention that all day long we had been famishing on account of thirst. The material to make water had been abundant around us — beneath our feet, hoio, there, and everywhere — but not a drop could be obtained, owing to our lire-lamp and equipments not being in use. Thus it was most thankfully I received the warm-liearted welcome given me by Niknjar, family wife No. 1 of Ugariij,', as she handed a cup of refreshing cold water. Then I re- membered how, on one occasion at the ship, this same woman, with her infant, came and asked vie for water, which I gladly gave to her, with something else. jS'ow she gave it to me. I should mention that, in winter, water is most precious to the natives. It is made only by melting snow or ice over llie • *»i,'/. T- .3ir::rj:zz~- DISAPrE.VRAXCE OF THE ICE. 213 ke a halt, ions I liatl longer on /acli of xis, uu'tor of i) engtli, and nbling, and re onv next ,vc intended sealing, and ward proved efforts were jre and more \e sledge was impediments. ,nd at others we succeeded fe and sound, garng's igloo, md, overlook- iirronnding it. )htained somi^ f long we had terial to make our feet, here, be obtained, being in "Sl>. warm-hearted 1 of Ugavn;i, Then I i'*"- s same woniau, which I gladly sre it to nre. lost precious to or ice overtlu' ikkumer (fire-lamp), which i,s au expensive heat and light when oil and blubber Ix^come .scarce ; and in this case our materials for fuel were all expended. While our own igloo was being erected, Ugarng and his second wife arrived from sealing, and, to the joy of all, brought with him a fine seal. lie generously supplied us with Wiiat we wanted, and thus an excellent supper Avas added to cheerful light and genial warmth from the now well-fed lamp. My fourth night in an igloo, on this journey, was spent more comfortably than the previous two had been, and on the following morning I rose greatly refreshed and strengthened. As I looked upon the expanse over which we had passed, T was startled to find the ice all gone out to sea. This was con- tinned by a view shortly afterward obtained from the top of ii mountain behind our igloos, and I felt truly grateful to Heaven for having so preserved us. During the day I took a walk on shore, and the two Esqui- maux went sealing. They returned at night with a fine prize, which made us an excellent feast ; and, as my own stock of l)rovisions was exhausted, except a trifle I reserved in case of sickness, this supply was most timely. On the following day, January 15th, Ebierbing and Koodloo departed, with the sledge and dogs, on a hunting excursion, and I went away to examine the locality around. During my walk over the hills I came across numerous tracks of rabbits, and I also saw in the distance several prominent lieadlands that were familiar to me from noticing them when we first arrived here in the ship. "While rambling about, I fortunately preserved myself from a severe frostbite in the face by taking the precaution of carrying a small pocket mirror which belonged to Tookoolito. I had asked the loan of it, knowing how necessary it was, when one is alone in those regions, to have a detector of frost- Itite.s ; and I found the use of a mirror in such a case equiva- lent to the companionship of another person. That niuht I was alone with Tookoolito and Punnie ; the i , !; il 1 u f\ n I ; 'I If I I if V(f 214 LIFE AVITII THE ESQUIMAU -v m Ml^^ latter Ugaing's third wife, she having come to our igloo to keep company with us until the Imsliamls ivturnt'd. It was very cold — the thevnionieter down to 57° below freezing pohil. Now my usual sleeping-place was between Ebierbing and Koodloo ; Init they being absent, 1 had to lay on the general bed, wrapped in my furs and blankets. During the early part of the night my feet were almost frozen. I tried all I could to keep them Avarm, but in vain. At last a smooth low voice reached my ear : " Are yon cold, Ur. Hall ? " I answered, " ^ly feet are almost frozen. I cannot get them comfortable." Quick as thought, Tookoolito, who was distant from nic just the space occupied by little I'uunie (that is, Punnie slept in the middle), got down to the lV)ot of her lied ; thence she made passage for her hands directly across my feet, seizing them and drawing them aslant to her side. ^ly modesty, however, was quieted when .she exclaimed, " Your feet are like ice, and must be warmed InnuU fashion ! " Tookoolito then rcsumeil her ]tlace beneath her tuktoo fuis, intermingling her hot feet with the ice-cold ones of mine. Soon the same musical voice said, " Do your feet feel better ? " I responded, " They do, and many thanks to you." She then said, " Well, keep them wL o they are. Good- night again, sir." Viy feet now were not only glowing warm, but hot through the renuiinder of the night. When I awoke in the morning, as near as I could ()ucss, there were no less than three pairs of warm feet all woven and interwoven, so that some difficulty was experienced to tell Avhich were my own. Ebierbing and Koodloo did not return until the next even- ing, bringing with them some black skin and krang— all the success attending them — which was obtained from a carM made the previous fall by the natives when our ship was in the bay. The bhick skin was compelled to be our food, us I ji <• icloo In I. It was dug poiul. vbiug ami he goueral the early I tried all it a smooth ot get them ;it from mt' L'uunie slo})! ; thence she feet, seizing ^ly modesty, rmed Inmit txiktoo fins, nes of mine. •ou. are. Good- it Jiot throngh the morning, three pairs of ome difficnlty :he next cven- pcrang-allthc from a ciu'he ir ship was in tniv food, rt^ STAUVING CONDITION OF THK PAltTY. 215 nothing better could be had ; and at supper I ate lieurtily of the nt 10 frozen whale hide. The following noon a very heavy snow-storm came on, and continued throughout the next antl two following days, con- fining us ahuost entirely to the igloo, myself obliged to live on black skin, krang, and seal. On Sunday, the 20th of January, ten days after leaving the ship, we found ourselves in a sad state from actual want of food. The weather continued so bad that it was impossible to procure any by hunting, and all we had hitherto obtained was now consumed, except a very small portion held in reserve. I had intended sending Koodloo back to the ship for supjjlies, but waited for more suitable weather. This morning, how- ever, it was absolutely necessary an attempt should be made, and as Koodloo refused to go alone, I decided upon proceed- ing with him. We expected to be obliged to make one night's encamp- ment on the sea ice, now again, so far as Me knew from that around us, compact, and we hoped to reach the ship on the following day. My only preparation was a sleeping bag and shawl, with a carpet sack of sundries, and half a i)ound of baked nmtton, which I had carefully preserved to the present moment. At 8 A.M. we were in reai'iness, with a sledge and team of 12 dogs, most of them nearly starved. Bidding adieu to Ebierbing and Tookoolito, Koodloo ami I started on our journey. At first, nmch hunimocky ice impeded the way, but this we got through, and I anticipated a speedy trip. I was, however, disappointed. Soon, deep snow appeared ; and though we struggled for some miles due south, it was at length evident lliat to go on like that would be impossible. Occasionally the sledge and dogs contrived to get forward pretty well, but often tlioy were so buried as to be almost out of sight. Koodloo seemed to think of giving it up, and I was so weak as to he hardly capable of dragging myself along. AVhile in this dilennna as to uhat we shouM do — yn ou. nv icdirii tir the i) i ( if'i k i I Ill ifm } i I' , 11 ii: I •.! i 2it; LIFE WITH THK ESQUIMAUX. igloo — I perceived Ebierbing and XJgavng on their way to- ward us. They had noticed luy difficulty, and Ebierbing now came on snow-shoes to offer his services in going to the ship in my stead. T acc('.i)ted the pro]JOsal, and he, with Koodloo, wont forward, Ugarng going in another direction, seeking for seal- holes, Avhile T, slowly and with ditticrdty, owing to my weak- ness, returned to the igloo. I was a long time getting back, and when 1 arrived there was obliged to throw myself on the snow platform quite exhausted. Toward evening, the weather then being fine, I walked on to a hill that overlooked the bay, and with my glass saw Ebierbing and Koodloo slowly wending their way along near where our second igloo had been erected, the former leading. That night and the ibllowing day I Avas hardly able to move. My weak state, owing to want of food — all my daily fare being a small piece of black or v/hale skin — had become very serious. In the evening I went to Ugarng's. He had just returned ivowx sealing, having been out two (hv/s and one nujlit over a seal-hole. All the reward he had, however, for his patient exertions was the seal coming up and giving a puff; then away it went, leaving Fgavng a disappointed Innuit. lUit he bore his disa])i)ointnient very philosophically. He said, in his native tongue, " Away T go to-morrow morning figain !" The next morning, which was very fine, Ugarng and Jack went out sealing again, while I visited several portions of tlie island. The following day Ugarng returned once more xui- successful, though he had remained all night over the seal- hole. This was very bad for the whole of us. We could not now have even a fire-light until another seal was capturetl ; and when I called at Ugarng's, I found they were in the saim; condition. Nikujar (Polly) was alone, except her infant aud Kookooyer, their daughter by George. They were without light. Her child was restles.s, and she said the cause wns hunger. " INIe got no milk — meat all gone — blubber too— STAliVlNU c:)XDlTlON UK THK rAlti'V. 217 notliing to eat — no 111013 light — no heat — must wait till get seal." While I waited, the second wife came in and said Uganig was still watching over a seal-hob. Jack soon afterward re- tuniod without success. Sad — xery sad ! My own state was bad enough, and I felt it severely ; but I could not hear to witness the wants of the jtnor people around me, having no power to relieve them, unless Ebierhing should soon come back with some provisions from the ship. All that I liad to eat was my piece of black skin, and this I relished. Indeed, I could have eaten anything that woidd have gone toward keeping up the caloric within me, and make bone and flesh. One night I asked Tookoolito if I might try the taste of some blackened scraps that hung up. I knew that she had reserved these for the dogs, but nevertheless I had an uncon- trollable longing for them. I was very hungry. Tookoolito replied that she could not think of my eating them — the idea made her almost sick ; therefore I did not urge the matter more ; but soon afterward I saw they Avere gone, Puniiie (Ugarng's third wife) having taken them, and passed the whole into her own stomach ! Ugarng came in late again unsuccessful, and Tookoolito gave him a cup of tea, such as it was, for, owing to the absence of proper light and fuel, it could not be well made. Directly he iiad it, off ho went once more to try for seal. The next morning Ebierbing had not returned, and we were all at our wits' end to find something to eat. At length Tookoolito made out to cut off some of the white from a piece of black skin. From it she " tried " out sufficient oil to use for heating some snow-water, which, when warmed, Mas thickened with Indian meal, a few handfuls having been found remaining of the small quantity I had brought with me. Tlie quantity of meal did not weigh above two ounces, yet it seemed to " loom tq) " as it was incorporated in the tepid water. I I ^ 218 LIFK WITH THK KHljUIMAl'X. 11 [ •f{ luid t\ui iucidoiit strongly ii'iuiiided imi (if the guod woiuuu and Elijah of Bibk> history. Tookoolilo, with whom I shared the meal, thought the "pudding" excellent, and so did I. Indeed, I shall not readily forget that l)reakfa8t, even — as I wrote at the time — " if 1 live to enjoy a thousand more dainty ones in mv native home." 'i^ ( = lltAU AND ANTLIiUS ul' TIIIC AUCTIU llJilXDKUli, CHAPTER XII. Wiiliuff itndci' DifficuUhn — Xn Fire or Lamp — Onhi two /ncfic.i of lilt.ih Skill fur Fund — Jidvoio'.iM llnuifrr nf the. Dixjs — Jihlrrhiinj's Return — A Sai/ captured — Supplies /rum f/ic Ship — (ireat Consuinptiini, uf Fund at u time — — Old Ookijoxy Ninmis Dream — Tolincco-J I'iec useful — W'Uehiiuj for thr Seal—Innuit Endurance of Cold — Mode of cuokiiuj and 2>nrt('klny of Innuit Foot — Burning the Finr/ers witli cold lirann— First Reindeer seen — Author visits Kowtukjua, Clark's Harbour, and Ookoolear, Allen's Island— Toukoo- lito's Sadness — Quick Journey — Plaintive Look if a Seal — Arrive at the " Ueonjn llenrtj." At this time, though I kept in general got>d health and spirits, 1 was fast losing tlesh. But almost worse than want of food was the want of light and fuel. On several occasions, the only way I had to keep myself from freezing was by sitting in bed with plenty of tuktoo fui-s around me. The writing of my journal was done with the thermometer + 15" to less than 0, while outside it was from — 25° to — 52". During the day 1 several times went up the hill to look for Ebierbing's reap- pearance from the vessel, but no signs of him met my eye, and the night of January 24th (fourteen days from the ship) saw us with our last ration of food, viz., a piece of " black skin " \\ inch wide, 2 inches long, and ^ of an inch thick. It was under these very " agreeable " circumstances I went to sleep, hoping to (h-eam of better things, even if I could not p.artake of them. " Better things " fortunately did arrive, and in a way that I could partake of them. At midnight I heard footsteps within the passage-way to our igloo. Intuitively I knew it was Jack with ook-gook — seal-blubber. I sprang out of bed and drew back the snow- block door. There ^oas Jack, his spear covered with pierced f eal-blubber hanging in strips like string-dried apples. 1 had allowed my poor starving dog " Merok " to .sleep within the igloo that night, and, (lircclly 1 had opened the door, on his* 1>I' :U I I J . ' c •I K j k 220 LIKK WITH T»K KSQUlMAUX. scenting tlio luscious I'ut, »|uickor tliau thouglit he f^iivc oin' leap — a desperate one, as if tlie strenf,'tli of a dozen well-fed animals were in him. In an instant I grajipleil with tin- dog, and made great elfort.s to save the precious material ; hut, though I actually thrust my hands into his mouth, and though Tookoolito and Puunie also battled with him, ^Ferok conquered, and instantly devoured that portion he had seized. This misfortune, however, was not single. r)efore Jack could get his well-loaded spear and himself into the igloo, all the other dogs altout the place were around him, fighting for a share of what was left. They succeeded in obtaining nearly all before we could drive them away, and thus the good por- tion intended for ns from what .lack had procured was lost to US, but not to the dogs ! Jack, who was of Ugarng's party, and had brought this as a present, returned to his own igloo, and left ns disconsolate to ours. " IJetter things," therefore, in that case, were not for us ; but, nevertheless, as I have said above, they did arrive, and that speedily. Not before 9 A.^r. did 1 again leave my tuktoo bed and go outside the igloo to look around. Naturally and longingly my first glance was in the direction whence I expected Ebier- bing. In a moment my eyes caught sonrething black npoii the almost universal whiteness. 1 looked again and again. It moved, and iu-.mediately my heart leaped with joy as my tongue gave utterance in loud tones to Tookoolito Avitliiii, " Eliierbing! Kbierbing! He is coming! he is coming!" Tlic response was, " That is good ;" and I — merely adding, " 1 go to meet him " — bounded away as fast as my enfeebled body would allow. 1 soon found, however, that if progress was to be made toward him, I must do it by slow degrees and patient steps. " Black skin," in homoeopathic quantities, daily taken for food, had but kept my stomach in sutHcient action to support life. All the strength I now had was mostly from the beef- steaks of dear Ohio, eaten and moulded into human fat, nuiscle, and bones before leaving my native home. But this "i'\ ■ r.itiKitniNds urri'iiN. ![ vcinnining strongtli was Vfiy, very «miill, and tlnis my cllovts to get on soon iioarly cxlmusti'd uu'. Al'tcr a great strtigglc throngli tlu^ ilccp snow, I at last got within hailing distance, and sang out to know if it was really Khierhing, as the party 1 had seen was no longer atlvaneing. No reply eanie to my (|Uestioii, and 1 innnediately hastened my i'eeble >>U'\)» to see the cause. A moment or two lirought mo near enough to be convinced. It wax El)ierl)ing, with the sledge and dogs, but so exhausted with his labours that he had been obliged to throw himstdf down, completely over- powered. Soon I was by his side gras])ing ids hand, and, with a grateful heart, thanking him tor the really go(xl deed he had performed in thus coming alone with the relief 1 saw before me. In a short time the loaded sledge was examined, and I found a box of sundries sent from the shi]i, as also n vcri/ fine SCI 'I, caiKjht that moniinf/ hy Ehicrhlng hiuiscl/. There was likewise a quantity of whale-nreat, brought from Eescue llarliour for the use of our dogs. Directly Ebierbing could renew his journey, we started together ; but the dogs and both of us wore hardly able to get the sledge along. Finally we reached the shore ice, and here we were so exhausted that not one inch farther coidd we drag the loaded sledge. Kunniu, wife No. 2 of llgarng, seeing our condition, hastened to give assistance, and with her strong arms and our small help, the sledge was soon placed higli on the shore by the side of the igloos. Ebierbing's first and most earnest call was <"')■) LIFE WITH TIIK KflC^UIMAUX. p. I I . 1 . !,f ^f tn • !| :i iSl I with young. Acconliiig to Inmiit custom, an iinmetlialc in- vitiitiou was given by the succcsHful hunter's fiiniily for every one to attend a " .seiil feast." This was speedily done, and our igloo was soon crowded. My station was on the dais, or bed-place, behind several Innuit women, but so that 1 could see over them ami watch what was going on. The ^lirst thing done was to consecrate the seal, the cere- mony being to sprinkle water over it, when the stalwart host and his assistant ])roceeded to sei)arate the " blank(!t" — that is, the blubber, with skin — from the solid meat and skeleton of the seal. The body was then opened and the blood Hcooped nut, This blood is considcu-cd very precious, and forms an important item of the food largely consumed by Esquimaux, N(^xt came the liver, which was cut into pieces and distributed all around, myself getting and eating a .share. Of course it was enten ran' — for this was a raw-meat feast — its eating being accompanied by taking into the mouth at the same time a small portion of delicate white blubber, which answered the same as butter with bread. Then followed distributing the ribs of the seal for social picking. I joined in all this, doing as they did, and becoming quite an Innuit save in the quantity eaten. This I might challenge any vhitc man to do. No human stomach but an Innuit's could possibly hold what I saw these men and women devour. Directly the " feast " was ended all the comi)any dispersed. Tookoolito then sent around bountiful gifts of seal-blubber for firelamps ; also some seal meat and blood. This is the usual custom among the Innuits, and, undoubtedly, is a virtue to be commended. They share each other's successes, and bear each other's wants. Generally, if it is found that one is short of provisions, it may be known that all are. When one has a supply, all liave. After the feast and the gifts were over, we had leisure to attend to ourselves, and in what " great good humour " we were soon to be found ! Our lamps were all aglow and our hunger sated. I then took up the letter sent me by Captain B ■, which added to my pleasure in its perusal. SEALING IN TlIK WlNTKlt. 1 M' I i i i*i< w f CMI i'l\\ r'l m U: e: /' hi 111 tl] Pi in lej Tl de El th( fin a str tlu Bu SOI] mo cap \ TOBACCO-JUICE USEFUL. 225 It appeared, by what I read, that every one on board the ship, as also the natives in the two villages, had given us up for lost during the gale we encountered when encamped on the ice. From the long absence of all information about us, and the fact that the same gale had broken up the ice in Field Bay, it was concluded that we had been driven out to &ea, and probably had perished. Koodloo's wife never expected to see him again ; and old Ooldjoxij Ninoo, the grandmother of Ebierbing, said she dreamt about him in such a way that his death was almost assured to her. ]My information from the ship told me that the natives in both villages were still badly off, not having caught one seal since our departure. I must now mention, briefly, how Ebierbing obtained the fine seal he brought with him. On his way to the ship he discovered a seal-hole, but, being hurried for time, he merely erecteil a small pile of snow near at hand, and squirted tohacco- JHicc as a mark upon it. On his return, he readily found the hole by this mark, and, though he felt the necessity of hastening on to our relief, and had received instructions from the captain to hurry forward, yet he determined to try for the prize by spendiaig the night in attempting to gain it. Accord- ingly, binding my shawl anil various furs around his feet and logs, he took his position, spear in hand, over the seal-hole. Tliis hole was buried in two feet of snow, and had been first detected by the keen sagacity of one of the dogs with him. Ebierbing, while watching, first thrust the spindle shank of the spear a score of times down tiirough the snow, until he finally hit the small aperture leading through the ice. It was a dark night, and this made it the more difficult, for, in striking at a seal, it will not do to miss the exact spot where the animal comes to breathe — no, not by a quarte ■ of an inch. But, to make sure of being right when aiming, Eoierbing put some dark tuktoo hair directly over it, and thus, after patiently wati;hing the whole night long, he was rewarded in the early morning by hearing the seal blow. In a moment more he captured it by a well-directed aim of his spear. VOL. L q * i\ '1* •'•'»; r.lKF, WITH TIIK r.S^iHIMAFX, 'I ! , /• The iK'xt inoniing, January 2C)\h, tliu Tnnuils rgtirn.ii. KbiLM'liiiiji-, and Jack all separated I'ur sdiiie plai-e wliere tlicy hoped to get seals. I ,sup[)lied tliem as liberally as I could with my i)rovisions, and then myself remained behind to proceed with certain observations I daily made in reference to determining positions, and otherwise noting down particulars concerning the locality around me. Tlie rations sent me from tlie ship were examined and placed in safety from tlic dogs, but not from the truly honest Innuits, for such precaution was not needed ; and then I tried to g<» on with some work. But it was colder than wc had yet ex- perienced, the thermometer being that night (the sevcnteentli of my igloo life) 75" below the freezing point ! Itemeinberint; that our scalers were out on the ice, and, as they had said, woukl each be watcliing for a prize, I shuddered, fully expect- ing they must l)e frozen to death ; but what was my surprise and jdeasixre in the afternoon to see Jack and Ebierbing return, each with a seal — the one ca\)tured about midnight, the othei early in the morning. Ebierbing aduutted that he had felt the cold very nuu'li while watching, and, tliough well wrap] )ed in fui's tied arijunt! him, could hardly prevent liis feet from free^iing. As to liis nose, f/i((/ did get touched Ity the frost, but he soon remedied it by smoking a Yankee clay pipe "loaded" with Virginia tobacco. Ugarng returned in the evening unsuccessful. Another ".seal-feast" was of cour.sc made, and on this occasion I supped ou seal soup, with about two yards of frozrii seal's entrails (very good eating) as a finish to the affaii'. These .seal su]ipers I found to be most excellent. The .seal- meat is cooked in a pan sus[)eiided for three or four hour.* o\er the fire-lamp. Cienerally it is boiled in water — half of it sea water — ad(f b/ooJ ! "When ready, it is served up by first L:iving to c.xch ])erson a piece of the meat. Tliis i'' nilldwed by a disli of piiioking-hot sou]), that is, the matciiil in which the seid lias been cooked; mid I chnllengc any one to find more jvilatnhh fodd in the United States. // /- ""•SB*? 'v^. INXriT MODK OF EATING. 227 (imhrnsia and nrdar ! Once tasted, the cry is sure to be " More ! vinrc ! " Tlic si'al-iueat, I may state, is oaten by holding it in l)f>tli hand;?, the tingers and the dental " null " supplying the offices of lidtli knife and fork. This mode (tf eating was known licfove sucli instruments wore thought of, Among the Tnnuils generally, the following ]»ractice prc^vails : before the igloo wife hands any one a piece of meat, she " i^mips " it all over, tliat is, .s//(7..s' out all the lluid from tlie meat that would [irol)ably otherwise driji out. Farthermore, if there be any foreign matter upon it, sudi as seal, dog, or reindeer hairs, she fid's them all off with her pliant tongiie. On January 29tli we had the cold so severe that the thermometer showed, during the night and in the moi'uing, 82° 1.. "■ ^he freezing point ! yet, strangely, I had experienced iiiorf -0 sensations of cold when the temperature was at :n'o \,u',u at this low state. Still it uns cold, and bitingly cold 1 How Ebierbing and the other men — wlu) had again left en the previous evening — could keep to their watch during tiiat cold night was to mc marvellous ; yet they did so ; and when Ebierbing returned about 9 a.m. without success, Ik; told mo that he was unwearied in his watchfulness all through tlie dreary time. At midninht a seal had come to breathe, hut he was not so ready or so smart — ])robably was too nuich frozen — as to strike in time, and therefore lost it. Sometimes the wives accompany their husbands sealing, even in such weather. Recording my own exi)eriencc of igloo life at this time, 1 may hei'c say that, having then .spent twenty nights in a ^now house, I enjoyed it exceedingly. Noir, as f look back at the past, I find no reason to utter any thing lifferiMit. I was as happy as circumstances permitted, even 1 hough with luuuits only for my companions. Life has chnrms every- where, and I nuist confess that Innuit life possesses those cliavms to a groat degree for nie. On the ;>lst we had a stranger visit \is — a l)oy called Koo- d-I Villi — Mho ari'ived iVom a sjiot one niile west of where Q 2 •' ; : I i i ^ ^.i J ill ' ' J ■ h I i i Jil • M V 228 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. )/ . ' f.iffiiH' I our first igloo had been erected. He had found us out and stated thai; he left behind, at the stopping place, Mingximailo the angeko, with his two wives. They had started for that spot a short time preceding us, but now, having been a long while without food, he came to see if we could supply him. The lad had an abundance given him, and never before did I see such an amount of gorging as I did then by that boy, Next day Ugarng departed on a visit to the ship, and with sundry presents of seal-meat, &c. from Ebierbing to his aged grandmother and friends. I also sent a letter to Captain B , preferring to remain until I had completed all my observations. "NViiile taking some of these, howevei", I " burned" my fingers most sadly by laying hold of my brass pocket sextant with my bare hand. I say hurned them, becaus'j the effect was precisely the same as if I had touched red-hot iron. The ends of my finger-nails were like burnt bono or horn ; and the fleshy part of the tips of mj- fingeis and thuniijs were, in appearance and feeling, as if suddenly burnt by fire. On the 3d of February we caught sight of some reindeer on the ice, making their way slowly in single fil*^- northward, and eventually coming within a quarter of a mile of our igloos. I had given my rifle to Elnerbing on the first sight of them, that he might try his skill in killing one ; but, owing to the charge of i)Owder being too small, he missed, und the reindeer, alarmed, darted off with the speed of the wind, uuich to our regret. That night, about 12 o'clock, we were aroused by a call from some one evidently in distress. The cry came from th'J passage-way just without the igloo, and was at once responded to by Ebierbing telling the stranger to come in. He did so, and who should stand before us but ]Mingumailo the angeko ! He spoke feebly, and said that he was very ill, thirsfi/ and hiuigri/ ; and that he, with his family, had had nuthing to o:d for nearly one month! Immediately a pile of frozen sctal- meat was pointed out to him, with permission to eat some, and, quick as lightning, the famished man sprang to it like IMPROVroEXCE OF THE NATHTS. 229 tis out, and Mingxxmailo •ted for tliat been a long supply liim. ■ before did I :liat boy. hip, and with ig to bis aged ■r to Captain pletcd all my bowever, 1 tl of my l>rass Unicd tbeui, I bad toucbid ere like burnt . of my fingers ] as if suddenly ' some reindeer fil'^, uortbAvavd, 1 mile of our n tlie first sigi>t one ; but, owing missed, un intended going thither the nexi mouth with some men, to see what coukl be done the coming .season in the way of whaling. After this arrival, the usual daily incitlents of our life wen- unvaried for some time. Occasionally seals were obtainetl, principally by Tgarng and Ebiei'bing, and then a grand least of raiv food took place. The improvidence and thoughtlessness of the Innnit people are remarkable. If they can live bountifully and joyous!} to-dai), the morrow may take its chiince. This was repeatedly shown in 4ie conduct of one and all during my residence with them in the igloos. Not even Ebierbing and Tookooliln were exempt from this failing. They would eat, and lei others eat up all they had one day, thougli they — and, I must add, myself, — starved the next. In addition to this want of due consideration concerning food for their own home, Tookoolito was generous in the extreme, always gi\iiig when asked, and trusting to what might hapi)en afterwanl for replenishing the suppl}'. Ugarng's numerous I'amily, consisting of no less than seven individuals, nuule incessant demands upon her and Ebierbing, and als(» upon myself, whenever it could he done by cajolery, or — as T often lliouglil \vould follow — by intimidation. ^My own stores I freely gave to an extent that I considered advisable, and no more ; 1>ut 1 frequently jiointed out to my Es(pumaux friends the necessity of luLsbanding what they obtained by their persevering and arduous labours, It was, however, of no use. Eat, e;:!, give, give, let go and never mind, .^ecmcd the princi|de lli.i' \r VISIT TO pl.vrk's HAKnoun. 231 j^iiidcd them; and, coiisoqui'iitly, in a .sliovl linu; starvrttioii iigain stared the wliolo \ illago in the face. Ebierbiiig, howeviT, was a most peisevcriiig and imlofntig- able sealer. During tliat season he canght more seals than any other man ; and on one occasion, by the aid of my ritle, which I had loaned to him, he siR'ceeded in ln'in<>iu locality, and then, at 4 I'.M. started for Allen's Island. SVc arrived at Ugarng's igloo about 7 ''.M. and \\'ere \vclcomc, iiiiil /irocenli Milrn frmii III'' l^lii/i ; liin Sminil'l' round iin Icihrrfj — Aiilli"r iiinl his t'liiii/iiiiiinn r.rliiiiisleil — Triii/iliiliini lo li^' iloirn mill .slcq) — Sliilije arrircn from llu: l—Srareh conlinned — TrmL^ lend Id lite lay, wheie they hoped more success would atleiKl ItKINDKEIl Ill'NT. Iliiiil — liiJ'j^ i'l sick: Cirw w,i/ /lis yr/f/'/iK's" '" IIS a A'"-' '■" "" f, ; llis S-iiiilll'l' Tiiniilii'i'"' '" '"' iiitiiiiial—Ti'iiiU 'the liwiiiy f !'"'■• " h he Hill' >'/(""■ •d tlu! G'or'i' |iusi'quouce "I' inosplit'Vt' til' ;t nil caliiu, till' uidi.'1'goiug ill'' how the mt'ii scurvy aiaiiii;^; wn to llis t'l^'^'^ a question V"^ unoug luuuits then wcut on sec uio. Till' )f its uiateiials OS. al igloos built euiaiued licit'. o;one away i" would atlond llioir e.vertioiis to ]iro(Mn'(' I'nod, Indiu'd, I uudevstood that lint U'.ss tliuii a liumlrcd Innuits were located in one pliUM^ mid doing well. Oil the L'-Uli of Felirimry Kliievbing returned to Cornelius Ciriiuu'll ]»ay, currying with him many presents and articles of provisions for himself and wife, ,t;ivon by Captain 15 and myself. Ugarng als(j went away well loaded ; and Kooil- loo and his family, Sliarkoy, with some of our dni^s, and line or two other persons, likewise departed for the same place. Sharkey was to come back soon with the dogs, which were only loaned to him for the occasion. Koojesst;, Johnny liull, Kokerzhun, and all the natives that were almut the ship on my arrival, or who came over soon aftirward from Frobisher Bay, evinced their Joy at my return in a way thai uiiicli pleased me, and showed that 1 had a luild of no .slight nature upon their airection.s. Thus two_ or three days passed away while pn-parations were being made by the ship's company for tlu'ir spring ■.vlialiug, and by my.self for another excursion, previous to making an effort toward ])roceeding on the main object of my voyage. While thus occupied, an incident occurred that, when related, as here, from no'^es taken at the time and from facts well-attested, may perhaps, by some of my readers, be deemed almost inci'cdilile. Diit precisely as it took place, just so 1 narrate it. About A.M. of ^Nlarcli 4th, the Innuit Charley, then on dock, reported reindeer in sight upon the ice. This imnie- (Uately caused much excitement, and, from cai)tain to cabin- hoy, the ciyran through the ship, "Tuktoo! Tuktoo ! " Of course we were now all but certain Ave should get a taste of north country venison, for there were numbers of us to give chase and insure a capture. Guns were charged, and a whole party were going off to the hunt, when it occurred to the more knowing ones that it would be wise to let Koojesse, who offered himself, proceed alone, taking with him only the rifle wliirli r put in his hands. The w iu'l, which was blowing l^ ' I ; 1^ iHi: 2-M LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. . /• ii t i 1 I ' 15 from tlio north, pliiccd tlie herd on tho windward side of him, thus ninkinfj his chnnco more favonralilo on acc(jnnt of th(» deer hein;,' nualdo so readily to " scent " the foo. Aa Koojesso eautiously ])ro(:eedcd, wo all watched him most eagerly. Fifteen minutes saw him " breasted" hy a small island toward which the deer approached. >\nien they were within rifle shot la; fired, lint evidently missed, for tho game wheeled round and darted away. Directly the report was heard, Ihirhclcarh, my Greeidand dog, bounded off toward the battle-ground, followed by all tho other dogs. This was annoying, as it threatened to put an end to any more firing at the game ; and if they would have heeded us, we should have instantly recalled them. Ijut it was now useless. The dogs were in full chas(>, and fears were entertained that if they got too far away, some, it' not all of them, would be lost. At length we saw I'arbekark pursuing — not in the deer tmcVfi, circuitous, flexuous, mazy in course, but — in a direct line, thus evincing a sagacity most remarkable. Tho other dogs, not taking the same course, soon fell behind. On and on Avent Barbekark, straight for a spot which brought him close upon the deer. The latter innnedialely changed their course, and so did I'arbekark, hot in ])ursuit after them. Thus it continued for nearly two hours ; first this way, then that ; now in a circle, then zigzag ; now direct, then at right angles, among the numerous islands at the head of the bay. For awhile nothing more was thought of the affair, save an expression of regret that the dogs would not be able to find their way home, so far had they been led by the enticing game. A little before twelve, midday, Barbekark was seen coming back, and presently he came on board, with blood around his mouth and over his body. No importance was attached to this beyond supposing that he had como into collision with the deer ; but as for killing one, the thought was not entertained for a moment. Those who had often wintered > ! i 'I \: REIXDKER HUNT. 2:]7 in the nvctic rogioii.s said tlu'y had nover known a (lo<,' to bo of nnyiiso in huntliif,' down doer, and tlioreforo wo concludi'd tlmt our ^'anio was lioiuK ]5ut thoro was soniothinf; in tho conchict of Uarbekark that inchicod u few of the nicui to think it jmssible lie liad l)L'en successful. Ho was Hdj^'cty, and restlessly bent u])on drawing attention to tho quarter where he had bei n chasing. lie kept whining, and going first to one and then another, as if asking them to do .something he wanted, fhe captain even noticed him jumping about, and playing unui-; al pranks ; running toward the gangway steps, then back again. This he did several times, but still no one gave him more than a passing notice. Hi; went to Keeney and tried to nlist///^ attention, which at last he did so far as to make him come down to me (I was writing in my ca1)iu at the time) and mention it ; but I gave no heed, being so much occupied wi*^'i my work. I'erhaps had Uarbekark found mo, 1 should have comprehended his actions. As it was, he failed to convey his meaning to anybody. Presently one of the men, called " Spikes," went off to the wreck of the Mcscm; and liarbekark inunediately followed ; but, seeing that Spikes went no far- ther, the dog bounded off to the northwest, and then Spikos concluded that it was really possible Barbekark had kUled the deer. Accordingly, ho returned on board, and a party of the ship's crew started to see about it, though the weather was very cold and inclement. Tlu'y were away two hours ; and when they came back, we could observe that each was carrying something like a heavy bundle on ,.; head. Still we could not believe it possible that it was j^.'ilions of the deer ; and only when they came so near that the strange fact was perceptible could we credit our senses. One man, almost Hercules like, had the skin wrapped around him, another had half of the saddle, a third the other half, and the rest each some portion of the deer that we all had especially noticed. In a short time they were on board, and deposited their loads triumphantly on the scuttle-door leading to the cooking department below. ! ] ( !. 238 LIFK WITH TI1K Et^QUIMAl'X. Every ofllicev and man of the ship, all the Inniiits and Jnnnit dogs, tlieu congregated around the tempting ])ile ot delicious fresh meat, tlie trophy, as it really jiroved, of my tine Greenland dog Barhekark. Tiie universal astonishment was so great that hardly a man of us km^w what to say. At length wc heard the ftxcts as follows : — Our men had followed Barhekark's return tracks ibr aboul a mile from the vessel, in a direct line northward ; thence ■! 1) . i i I I I] HAH11KK.S1IK KIl.t.lNII THK lii:i \ I IDKII westward some two nules farther to an island, M'hei-e, to their surprise, they found Barl)ekark and the other Crreenland tlogs seated upon their haunches around the decir lyijig dead JK'fnre them. On examination, its tliroat was shown to he cut with Dav- iH'kark's teeth as effectually as if any white man or Innuit had done it with a knife. TIk^ windpijie and juguLir vein had both hecu severed ; more, a piece of each, with a ]iart of tlie .»^ >vp A VKNISOX FEAST. 2:\\) tongue, tlio slviii and tlosli covo'ing tlio same, had actually boL'U bitten out. Tlio moment^ " Sain." one of the men in advance of tlie rest, approached, Barbekark junqied from hi.s watchful position clo.so by the head of his victim and ran to meet him, with manifestations of delight, wagging his tail and .swinging his head about. At the same time lie looked up into Sam's eyes as if saying, " I've done the b(\st T could ; I've killed the deer, eaten just one luscious mouthful, and lapped up some of the blood. I now give up what you see, merely a.sking for myself and these my companions, who liiive been faithfully guai'ding the prize, such portions as yourselves may disdain ! " The snow around the spot showed that a terrible fight had taken place before tlie deer gave up its life. Somelutw during the struggle one of the deer's hind legs had got broken ; and ^\•llen our men arrived at the spot, several crows were there ] licking away at the carcass, llut l»arbekark and the crow linuily were always on good terms, and probably this was the reason why he did not drive them away, for sometimes they rested u]ion his back. As soon as our men had reached the dead de(!r and found it ready for them, they skiiuied it, and then cut it in pieces for carrying on hoard. They regretted that no harnesses were at hand, so that they might have had the dogs — Barbekark at the head as conqueror — drag the whole carcass to the ship. As soon as tlie]irize wason I)oard, it was fairly distributed among the ship's company fore and aft, and my brave dog was greeted with many a word of praise for his remarkable hunting feat ! In afterward dressing the deerskin, it was seen that the ball I rum my rille, tired by Koojesse, had really taken effect. Tt WHS found in a piece of the flesh still adhering to the skin, at that part which covered the hip. The ball had gone through the skin, and was flattened by striking the bone. I have that l':ill, and keep it as a memento of this remarkable affair. 3:i referring to this incident a day or two afterward, Captain n said to tlu; men, "Boys, who at Jiome, think you, will bcli(jV(> that affair of Jjarbekark's ami the deer-hunt, with what f \^ : I I iii/^J 240 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. ; ; >i; il I followed ? " The general reply was, " Not one in a thousand will believe it." " In fact," added the captain, " / can hardly believe it even now, though it was so." And thus may niaiiy others say; yet the facts are precisely as I ha^'e related them, and they are evidence of the keen sagacity and almost human intelligence, allied to ^reat bravery, of my faithful Greenland dog Barbekark. On the 5th of March Sharlry returned from Cornelius Grin- nell Bay. He was accompanied by one of the angeko's wives, and brought us information of all my Innuit friends, and also of NUcKJars death, which occurred about two or three day.s after I had left. I have before mentioned that this woman, Nikujar, was the ftimily wife No. 1 of Ugarng, and had formerly been the wife of Blind George. Indeed, until he became blind, she was to him a happy and loving partner, giving him the one child, Koolcooycr, he now so much doted upon ; but when the curtains of an endless night wore drawn over him, he lost her. She consented to become the wife of Ugarng, leaving the noble- hearted but now blind " eagle " to be alone. By Ugarng, Nikujar had another child, Mc-noun, but she was always wishing to have her first one, Kookooyer, with her. Thus it was that I so often saw the girl in Ugarng's homo, instead of with her own fatlier. Nikujar, however, did not get on quite so well as she had expected. Ugarng's second wife, Kunniu, seemed to be his favourite, probably on account of her being so servicCcable to him in hunting and sealing ; and Nikujar had freqiiently to remain by herself, or with wife No. '^, to take care of their home. Disease also laid hold of her. She was sick when I first saw hei", andconsum]»tionhad sown the seeds of death in her frame. Gradually she wasted away, and during my sojourn at the igloo village it was evident to me she could not long survive. It was therefore no surprise when I heai'd of her decease. To Filinil George, however, who was on board when the news arrived, the intelligence was a heavy blow. Notwithstanding her faithlessness, he had always retained his original love for the mother of their dear chiM ; *( 'I A MAN LOST, AXT) lYtUND FIMZFX DEAD. 241 iiiid when he licard she was no move, he went ami hid himscll', that he might mourn witliont restraint. When T sought him out, I found he was giving way to ahnost uncontrollable grief, his eyes streaming with tears, and his lamentations loud and jiiiiniiil to hear. I tried to condbrt him, and by soothing words direct his thoughts xqiward, where tl^.; best consolation is ever I'uund. At this time a very serious event occurred, the narrative of which I here transcribe from my diary: — "Sumliiy, Mmvli ITtli, 1861, 11 o'clock, iiij^li)-. " A man lost ! Tlie man found — dead I ! l'rf)zen to tU'ath ! I ! "I am too fatigued, my mind too overwhelmed with tlie dreadful incidents of the day, to make record of what belongs t»i this day's journal. 1 leave all for the morrow, after having said, "Peace to the sou' of John Rrown, one of the men of the fu'onir Ilcnrj/!" " Aloiuliiy, Miiivh ISlli, 1801. " I now resume the painful record of the subject fore- shadowed in the few words of iny last night's penning. " Turning back to the record of last Tuesday (I refer to my MS. journal book), it will be seen that two of tlie Ganyc Iliiiri/'.s men, John Brown (who now sleeps in death) and -lames Bruce, both afHicted with scur\'y, were sent to Oopung- iiewiiig, in Frobisher Bay, distant by sledge-route seventeen nautical miles, lor the purpose of h.aving them stay with the Iimuits for awhile, living exclusively on fresh meat, walrus and seal. They accompimied, as there stated, the Innuit 'Bob' (King-wat-che-ung), with whom Captain !> made distinct avraugements to care for them, j)roviding for ) hist thirteen of the crew of his vessel — the dioriiiiaia — by scurvy. VOI» 1. I{ • '}-■. \i >:-i.4I'id ' ' m I . 242 LIFE WITH THE LSyUlMAlX. "On Friday lust, ]\Iaicli intli, by the journal (my MS. Jounial), it Avill also lu' se'Oii tliat Koojosse and Cliavk'y (Koo- ixjr-ne-unj^), wont owv to the lunuit settlements at Frobishev Bay !■ th the doj^s and sledge, for the oljject of trafhcking for wall us tusks and meat. It was expec^ted that they woiikl ret'-n ' the evening of the same day, but the inck'ment M'ei.lu'r that sueceeded their starting out, the gale of the night and next day, prevented their return till twelve jueridiau of Saturilay, at which hour they started. "John Ih'ov n and -lames Bruce feeling so much relieved of their complaint, they pre})ar(Ml themselves to return with Koo- jesse and Charley. AVlule the load of walrus skius, walrus meat, &c. was being lashed to the sledge by the two Innuits, Brown and Ihnice started on together. They had not proceeded more than lialf a niilc! when Bruce })ro])osed that they should return, delaying their journey to another day, as the wind was blowing strong and cold ; the indications of the weather beiuij otherwise uni)ropitior,s. To this proposal Brown objected. Bruce declared they would be frozen before they could reach the vessel, and this being his honest conviction, lie not only decidi'd to go back to the igloo they had just left, but strenuously exerted himself to induce Brown to do likewise. The last words of this unfortunate young man to his com- panion (Ih'uee) were, 'I'm going on ; for, by CI — , Fni deter- mined to have my !. " Dull" is a fiivoiiiiti' di^li with tlinni, 1111(1 also, I iiiny siiy, with the (illicois ami all in tlio .stceraj,'!'. Tin' " aiii>li'-siiiiiH'" ri'ti'i'iid to in iirown's iciiiark is cxphiiiieil hy the fait IIkiI diicil appli's aif iiir')r|ioraU'(l iu tlii' "diitl." A SICK man's obstinacy. 4:^. iriifil (my ^l^- [ Chavk-y (Koo- iits at Fiobishev f trafllcking f»ii" ,iat they would t tlio inclement gale of tlic niglit 'Ive meridian of iiiucli relieved of L-etuvnwith Koo- as skius, walrus the two Innuits, lud not pr(>c(>eded tkat tliey skould r, as tke wind was tlie M eatl\er beiuii IJrown objected, tliey could reach l;tu)n, he not only id just left, but n to do likewise, man to his coiu- ,y (!— , I'm deter- at to-morrow's mi the sledge his lis steps until In- nuinghis journey leavily loaded, so proceeded suim' and Koojesse. td doad i;nd make ii ill" is a favoiinti' di^li ,1 in the stcL'va^f. TIh' iiiiii'cl liy die I'liit tliiit deposit under piles f)t' ice was a work of time. Jh'owii was anxious to proceed witliout tke delay requisite to make tlie riirJic. He mad(\ known his determination to proceed alone. Tlie two Iiimiits, who foresaw the dangers to Avhich Ih'owu was about to expose liimself, advised that he should wait for them. All that these experienced, storm and cold proof men of the Xorth coidd say in warning him, did not sufVicci to cool the ardent desire of Brown to join as early as possible his cheer companions at the Giorf/e Ifnir//. "Seeing that Erown was abmit to take his departiiro, Koojesse and Charley persuaded him to take along one of the (logs, that it luight guide him in the direct route to the ship. Koojesse disengaging the single trace from the juio* the same was i)assed t(j j'.rowu's hand. Thns he had a guide, a leader in harness, whoso instinct was truer than that of any )naii, with all his boasted intelligence. But this d(jg Brown ex- changed for a younger one unused to the route. AVith heart hounding with liopeful throbbings that he would soon be iuuong his home companions — that lie would soon be partici- pating in the longed-for food of civilization (for which he had acipured a hundred-fold stronger desire than lie ever had lie- fdie, in the course of his brief stay among the Innuits, whose iihuost sol(i living is fre. to learn the news from Frob.isher Jiay settlements. "The sledge was driven up alongside of the Gcori/c Hum/; the df'^s were quickly unharnessed ; the small portion of the * Tlic short liiii: that rnanofts all tlio diaii^lil. liiii>s or tiai'i's (iF tlio dugs to tlio niiinois nf tliP sU'(lgi>. jj 2 , K, 111 Mil ; 1 15 J tiB;i;u>. 244 LIKK WITH THE ESQUIMAUX Mi >iK'(l|. f If; r ■ I "■( ! '1 1'' ' II I" original load wii.i placed mi dock, out o\' rcnfli ol' the doffs, Charley d'^parting for his i-^Ioo iicav th(> stciu of iUv vessel ; whilt! Kooit^sse (whose winter quarters aiv wHh 11s) hastemd in, (livestin,^ hhnself of his ih'ess, and phcin;; liiniselt' almii; sidu uf his warm sleeping xnlu'.iK, Tu-imiv-der-r; n, wl'o had retired hours before 1 did to the usual place of th* ir tukii>'i lied, close beside the donr of my slerping >r>artment. A few moments found the weaiy Innuit, \vy friend Koojesse, in the arms of si ('(p. Tlie sleeji <>f a tired innuii i^ usually acenm panied witli loud nasal souB'ds. "'Sly lateness m retiring on Saturday night, my uinjuict sleep, made me a later riser on llie following gloruua day of day.s — the Sabbath. ' Breald\i-t hour with us is eight o'clock. I was up and dre.^si-d only half an hour in advanee. "What Avas the tirsi j'jws that awaited me? Tiiat one of my 'Greenlandc'"'.' iiad been outrageously nuitilated by some Innuit, who had cut clean oif the animal's left car. 'King-ok,' a fine dog, was the subject of this wicked act. King-ol. n offence was biting har- nesses. As 1 have said before in my journal, let a dog oifeiid an Innuit, and woe be to the dog! Any instrument at hainl is used ill administering punishment. In this case a snow- knife was seized, and my noble dog King-ok became tln' tiM'ribli. sufferer of an ungoverned passion. " I had allowed my six dogs, in order to complete the team (jf twel'e, tu be used in making this Frobisher IJaytrii) fortln' advancement of the ffc/nyr Ilinrt/'s interest.s. Captain B burned with laudable indignation on learning the sad :'0ii- dition of my dog. What astounded me, and every one of tin' ship's company, was the discovery of the fact that Koojessr was the Innuit who committed this brutal deed. His only excuse was that his companion Charley had first severed tlir ear of his dog, anil hr (Koqjesse) thought he must do the .saiin' to my dog. " lUit what of thi.s — cruel .and savage though these two acts weie — compared with the terrible story I am yet to relate? Yesterday morning, after breakfast, I went upon deck, ami il, 11 sy uiiijaii>t rilK SEAUCir FiiH liltUWN. 24.") tlioiv uu't Ad lliulcy. who said to mo, strmding by the gang- way, 'Chark'v lias ,just told me that the Froiiclnnan, .rohn lii'owii, started IVdiii the igloos of Frobishev T'ay with thein (Koojcsse and f;harley); that he, Brown, finally left them, and i iinic on ahead ; that they saw nothing more of Brown ; l»it, as they passed ".'0111 the land on to the ice of Field Bay, this side, saw his tracks, and wished to know of Bailey what time Ih'own arrivi'd at the vf^ssel.' "Bailey had jnst ascertained from the hands forward, where Brown belonged, that hr lunJ not nrriird ! At once, under a painful apprehension of the real state of the case, I rushed down into the cainu, made my way to the captain's room, where I found him preparing for his usual deck-walk, and iinnounced to him the facts I had Just learned, telling him of lay immediate readiness to go in search of him who 1 knew must be lost, suffering, or — as 1 feared from the cold of the night (J>T below the freezing j)oint) — a dvad iiiaa. Captain I) instantly went forward, and learned that what I had told him was too true — that Brown had not arrived. Only a bundle of blankets and fresh walrus-meat was there, just brought in by Charley, the same having been placed on the sledge by Ijrown on the point of starting home. Captaiii B ordered Brown's ship companions to go in immediale search. This was responded to cheerfully, of course. Captaiii I! returned to the aft cabin, and told me that parties were LiL'ttiiig ready to move. As last as I could, I made the ex - change of civilisation dress for my Iniiuit costume. With my marine glass ami compass in hand, I made my way on deck. A company of ten men met me there, prepared for the dan- gerous work before lis. The thought occurred to me that we should take along vith us one of the Inuuits of the sledge jiarty which came i;i on Saturday night, either Koojcsse (H' Charley. Seeing the former on deck, 1 asked him to aecom- liany us. lie quickly joined in. Our first work was to go to th(! spot where the tracks of poor Brown were seen as reported. "\Ve set out at 8.20 a.m., taking a true W.N.W. course, (•ur movements were rapid, impelled by the feeling that ii !• i- •'I » ■■/ .mM.m fT I r W i I > I. i! U' i? ! : 24(3 LIFI". WITH THE KSQUlMAfX. iiK'iteiJQ^iU hearts with the hojjc we might he in time to save liuman life. It was only occasionally that we walked — v:c von! 1 felt, Oh that we liatl wings, and coidd determine these anxious fears and doulits in a few moments, instead ©•(P^vaiting the hours that it will require to settle tliem I Koojesse and Sam, hoth great travellers, were for pressing on with all their immediate strength. I knew this would not do ; (hat liy this course they would not only sacrifice tlieir own important services for a long search, which evidently it would ho, hut also those of all the (ttluM' men. I therefore repeatedly cautioned them to do only as tliry and all of us could also do and hold out. lUit neither reason nor a prudent foresight of the prolonged hours which would he required in this painful service could stay tiiem. ( )n(' after another of our company fell back. Ere we came within two miles of the tracks, even Koojesse gave out. He was obliged to move with slow steps from his over-exertion. The se(piel will show the wisdom of my advice, whicli was finally acknowledged by all, even Sam. I may as Avell state here that, after proceeding three miles from the vessel, 1 saw, away in the distance, objects that appeared moving. I called attention to them. Then I first learned that a ])arty of five had preceded us in this search. Though they had fifteen minutes' start of us, we were soon up Avith them. " When we came within a quarter of a mile of the land, the tracks of poor lirowii were fountl by K( 'ij'esse, who had seen th(! same but a f(!w hours before. The distance made from the ship was full six geographic or sea nules in one hour and forty-two minutes, the party arriving at the tracks at lO'lO A. M. Only four out of the ten accomplished this, myself of the number that did, I could not l)e in the rear, injudicious as I knew to be the over-exertion that we were making. " Soon as we struck upon the ahnost obliterated footprints of the lost one, our movements wore even quickened. Vet the trucks led, for more than a mile, in a direct course to the vessel, and but a few steps southward of our way up. I have Tirr; sf- itcK coxTiNuim. M7 11 time to save walked — ^rc uld detoruiim' iiu'uls, instoad settle tlu'iu : IWr pressiiijj; on would not do ; ifice their own ilontly it would 't'liiv repeatedly IS could also do lent foresight of . in this painful of our company the tracks, even with slow steps w the wisdom of ly all, even Sam. ;iing' three miles ce, objects that M. Then I fust in this search, we were soon up i of the land, the 3e, who had seen ance made from cs in one hour at the tracks at ished this, myself )e in the rear, .on that we were ;erated footprints cpiickened. Vet ect course to the way up. I hiivc written, a few lines pveieding tJiis, the words, 'the almost obliterated footpriiits of the lo.st one.' ]}y referenct! to my journal (MS. journal) of lust night, I see tiiat I then! noted tlie following phenomenon, viz., ' Sliowers of snow while the heavens are dear. Stars sliining brightly.' At midnigJit, the time of my last visit to the deck, I wrote this, though a ])revious recoid had been made of the same phenomenon taking ])lace as early as 9 I'.M. "Twelve, midnight, stars shining; all clear over the whole expanse, yet snowing ! Thermometer — 12'.' " This accounted for the filling up of the tracks. Besides, tiie light wind of this morning had swept the beautiful line snow-crystals into them. " We followed on hopefidly, some of our number even saying, 'It may be we shall find John has arrived at the vessel ahead of us.' Oh that it had proved so ! " The course of lirown was so near ours outward that those who had fallen behind had but to turn a little southward to reach it. Hence those who were fad became Jirsf in the search. The upper part of Field I'ay is studded with islets. To one of these his footprints were directed. At length they tinned around its southwestern side, where he met with hum- mocks that obstructed his course. Still farther south he bent his steps to get around them. Each of these turns liad a ten- dency to throw him out of the true coxirse to the ship, which at first he evidently had in mind. "One of the men, finding a place among the ice to which lli'own had turned in, actually exclaimed, ' Here he is ! ' But liis outward steps were soon traced, so that this gleam was soon overshadowed. " Getting out again in full view of the bay. Brown nearly regained his original course. Following this awhile, he again deviates. Xow our hearts are cheen^d again, for he takes a proper course ; another minute and wc are sad — he diverges. After having taken a wrong course, which overwhelmed all with sorrow as we followed it for seven minutes, he suddenly turned northerly toward a magnificently-pinnacled iceberg that i1 I I 11 1: • in r i^i w i I .^iti, 248 IIFK WITH THE KKQllM.MX. IIIKl if ' il 1 'I f ; ■i'. !i:i l! il. is i>c-lock(Hl away up tho Imy. This we tliDiij^'lil ooj>uizecl, ami tliat, mi iciicliin^ it, 1h> would llifu know wlnir he should direct his stops. ]>ut, alas! too soon lie tnrns in another — a wroii^' direction. " His tracks l)y eleven o'clock A.M. showetl that he was lost. Up to this hour it was evident to lis that John had in mind nearly the propi-v direction in which the harbour of the vessel lay. It is trur tluit now and then his tracks led in a direction that indicated doubt, but inaiidy otherwise. When .lolin Brown first made Field l?ay, passing from the land over which he had just come from Frobisher 15ay, it nmst liave been niiii o'clock last night, lie could have been but a little in advance of the .sledge party he had left in Frobi.sher ISay. Hence it was not by daylight tliat he was struggling to reach the vessel ; for, not being used to travelling alone, nor familiar with the route, and it being by night he was travelling, no wonder at bis deviations, as indicat 1 to us up to the hour I have named, to wit, eleven o'clock a.m. lUit at this hour I exclaimed, ' See ! sec ! he vho vwdc those traeks was fa.sf.' They wi-re tortuous, zigzag, circular, this way and that — eveiy way but the right way. '•At length John took a coursi; 8.S.W. leading him ob- lif|uely to the opposite side of the bay from where the vessel lay. How our hearts ached at this. Making, finally, a largo circular sweep — having perhaps seen the dark, black, buttres.s- like mountains before him, which he must have known mciv not on the side of the bay he wished to make — he then took a S.S.E. course, \ Inch was the proper on(>, had he not been making the southing which he had. P.ut this he did not long follow. Aiu)ther and another bend in his steps, all leading him out of the May. " I here state that, in following tho tortuous tracks leading southwesterly, Sam AVilson and ^Morgan continued a direct course^ southeast. 8oon the alarm was raised that Sam aiul Morgan had sighted the object of our search. We looked in that direction, and concludetl they had, for they were uiniei' a i il lie l»a«l !'■ [\ know wlu'iv 1 he turns in at lu! was lost . n had in miml w of Uic vessel I in a tlii'fftioii When .'oliii andovov wliicli liavc liiH'n niib it tie in advance liay. Hence il 3ach the vessel ; Liniliar with tlic rr. no wonder at r I have nameil, xx I exclaimed, it: They wi'iv -every way Vtut cadini;' him ob- here the vessel tinally, a largo black, buttress- ave known were c — he then took ad he not been le did not loiiji teps, all leading IS tracks leading itinned a direct >d that Sam iiml We Inoked in icy were nndei- n SKAKCIIIM! PARTS KXHAfsTKI). 2 Ht lull run. A piece ol' (link-culoiuvd ice, raised iij) I'miii \\\r main, had, however, deceived tlieiu. " On, on we Inllowcd tin! stcjis nf the lost lor miles, leadiiiy licnerally .southeast, " Sniiio distance ahead dl' me and William Jnhnston were Morean, Sam Wilson, ami Khdver.' I I'elt that I was acting the judicious part, and therelnre kei)t u|) a rai)id walk — a uait tliat 1 could sustain tor hours, Occasionally I cast my eyes back. Groups were still lullowiuy after, sdiue of them far behind. At 12 o'clock, I was piuned to see that all in our rear had become exhausted, and were directing' their steps toward the vessel. Out of twenty na'U in all who left thi' ship, but five of us now contimu'd the search. " I must confess that the race of the morning had seriously exhausted my strength. Nothing but the hope of siiviu^ human life could have induced me to take another step at twelve. By occasional rests, myself and my comijanion were reinvigoratc'd. By this prudence, and that of avoiding farther over-exertion in running, we found that we were fast gaining upon the three ahead of us. " Thirst — burning thir.st c(»ntinually hara.s.sed me. Seeing an iceberg at our right, we turned to it. Seating ourselves by it, with our knives we chipped olf piece after piece, with which (lur thirst was partially allayed. The ttrst piece which I put into my month froze it fast. Tongue, palate, and lii)S refused further service luitil the ice became of freezing water tempe- rature. The cause (tf this of course was that the ice containeil a degree of c(ddncssevcn fai' lower than the tem[)erature of the air then around us. The air at twelve and ouc o'clock was only 42" below freezing point, while the bei'g was (50^ — that i.s, 28" below zero. I took the precaution of holding suceeediug pieces in my mittenctl hand until 1 raised their tenijterature to near freezing point, when I could with perfect safety intro- duce them to my parched tongue. " By-the-bye, I found one serious obstacle to my stopping to rest. Cramps of a most excruciating character in the calves of lay legs threatened to over[iu\ver me. After I o'clock r.>r. 'iv i il 1m 1 1 I ' I " i; h ii: .1 V ^:; L'.'O i.iKK WITH Till-; KS(^riM\r\'. il: • ^ I :.i ) I ft: J T suili'vod less iVoiii tlii'iii. This gvicvcms nllliction arose, \u\- (lonbti'illy, IVdiii llic nvcr-cxt'itioii ii]i(iti our scttiiif,' cmt. "At 1 o'clock I'.M. r 1111(1 Williiiin .loliiiston siiw tlic lliivc nlicnd of us (A[oi'j,'iiii, Siiui, mid Miikcr) (lirow tliciiisclvcH Hat on tlio ice. Hy this we knew tlicy Imd bceomo cxliiuistcd. Fifteen minutes Inter found us with tlipni, mid flat beside them. Oil, liow j;!ad I wiis to make my lied for iiwliile upon tliis liosoin of the deep I how refre.slied we all wi'ie by that prostration of our wenry limbs I AVliile we were rest in*,', Sam exclaimed, ' Well, come, let us eat dinner ; ' these words beinj,' accompanied by the act of drawinay, the tracks of the lost one still leading us seaward. A heavy sea uiiglit take us beyond our power to return. Every one felt that if Brown continued the course in which wo were then following him, he must have arrived at a point where ho had been carried out to sea on some floe. " Most of our little company felt that they could not go farther, so exhausted were they. Sam AVilson was the first of the five to declare he would not ; /ic said he could not go farther, although he was one of the forward ones of the morning. Yet he did continue on with us until ten minutes past two P.M. They felt they had tried to perform their duty. This was a terrible blow to me. I felt that I could not give it up so, discoui'aging as was my condition. I resolved, that, so long as God should spare me strength, I would follow oil and on ; and knowing the risk, I did not feel that I could take the resiionsibility of persuading any one to accompany me. l^^p to this time the course of the tracks Avas tortuous — '• -V' ^ TItAt'KH OK TIIK MFSSFNf! MAN'. I'd H I '\ Aon arose, iin- saw tilt' tlnvc lu'lllHclvCS Hut mc cxlmustfil. lul tlat b('sitl(^ )r invliiUi upon 1 were l)y tliiil \v rest iiij,', Sum 'Hc words bi'iiii^ xK'kot two soii- •r. Those tliroi' liinji; l»ut tlireo ;oultl umke this iigth which tliii Mill by resting, i\> were now on le tracks of the sea might take t that if r>rowu . following him, ad been carried ■y coidd not go was the first of (• coidd not go .rd ones of the ilil ten minutes (jrin their duty, could not give I resolved, that, ould follow on ol that I could i to accompany was tortuous— now sweeping almost in circles, now to southeast, now to the south, hut mainly leading to the open sea, far to the cast. I regretted much that some one of us had not thought to bring a snow-knife. With this simple instrument in hand, 1 wi)uld have taken the respousiljility of inducing some om^ to continue (111 with me. With this w(! couhl have erected an igloo for the iiinht, or any other time, if we should be overtaken by a gab; 111' storm liefore our return. Fifteen minutes afti'r two VM. I left my eompaiiioiis, who had resolved to return, and pro- ceeded on ii/(iii)\ I knew Ciod would be with me in my work. I had not ]m»ceedetl far before I was overtaken by "William .lohnston, who said, 'T have resolved that 1 will aceompiiiiy you rather than return now. I do not feid that I have more than strength enough left than would enable me to return to the vessel ; but I may feel better soon. John was my ship- mate, and I loved him. I shall ever regret, perhaps, if I return now.' " As we passed on together, we were soon encouraged by linding the tracks bending away from the direction of Davis's Straits. Our feelings of hope were soon increased almost to those of joy, for we found the main course of the tracks now led west, as if John had seen the mountains westward, and to them was attempting to make his way, and then follow them up to the point where ho left the land. l>ut how soon was this cup dashed from our hopeful lips ! The steps of the lost .soon circle anjund to the southeast, then east, carrying us back again. For fifteen minutes we followed a true course West. Hope lifted us up again, and ([uickened our steps. At last they turned, circling to the south ; thence around all the points of the compass, crossing, for the first time, his own tracks. This occurred one hour after parting company with our men, whom we had left to return. Having followed his footprints around this circle of twenty rods radius, in less than three minutes another circle occurs. lie now strikes due north. With bounding, almost happy hearts, we follow, for this course leads almost directly to the vessel. The ( liaunel of water leading to Bear Sound of P'robisher was only f 1 (-;• ! II ■I ( a i i\ :H ii LIl'K WITH THE i:S(JUIMAlX. ./* 1 ' MP \\ ;l (, I y i; ten miles duo south of us. Tliis placo, though of historical and ge'oyrai)hioal iutorost to luo, was as nauglit in the work I was now perlbniiing. " But how ol't is man doomed to disappointment ! The tracks turn again in a eirchi. Now they come in rapid suc- eession. Hound an^l roiuid the bewiklered, terror-striekcii, and ahnost frozen one makes liis way. Five circles, one intiM- k)cking another, does tlie lost man make; then strikes out, antl continues two more — in all, twelve circles did Johumakii within less than two miles. " I)uring our protracted searcli, I and my companion often threw ourselves Hat upon the hard snow that covered the sea ice. This gave us rest. At one of these resting-places 1 fell instantly into a sound sleep. Had I lieen idone, I know imi what would have been the result ; but Johnston roused me after consiilerable exertion, and we presseil on. Every now and then we came to jilaces where the lost one had seated himself to rest. In all, we found eight such places. Just before the company parted, we came to a spot when; John had made a hole down into the snow, evidently with the desire to get some of the most compact with which to quencli his thirst. During this whole search we made frcipient calls on 'John' by loud shouting. " At four o'clock, while following the tracks, whit^h were then tending ncn'thward, I thought I heard the cry of dogs. I threw back my hood, which is attached to the jacket in tln' liiMuit way, and listened. I asked Johnston if he had luaiil anything. lie answered nay ; adding, he thougiit it only my imagination. I saw that my companion was getting exhausted. Here we were far from the vessel, the sun sinking lowei' and lower, and the cold increasing. "Somehow 1 felt that, upon the return of llu; three win) left us a little after two o'clock, the captain would send out n native with kunnnitie (.sledge) and dogs, suitably provided (e co-operate with me in keeping \ip the search. I ri'gretted, indeed, that 1 had not .sent word by Alorgan for the eaplain to do this. It would be -.xn easy matter (o tind us, as lln TUACKS OF THK MISSINCJ MAN. iritcks of till' tliviM' would load to ours, wlu'uce \vc could lie traced. " Fifteen iniuutos after 4 P.M. tlio track.s of .foliu turned south. .Tolm.stou hud said ho would continue with me till we should I'oach the coast on the west side of Field Bay, if John's track shoiUd continue there. Now they turned from tin- vessel S(juth. Hero, for the first time, I solicited him to r thne, liow 1 .should have enjoyed the sight before ine — a pile of alabaster, ])innacled as no human mind could design or hunuxn art execute — here and there a covering of cream cohmr, the sidi' facing the descending sun reflecting dazzling ](rismatic cidours. To this, in the darkness of night. .hihn had directed his steiis. As wo arrived at its base, we found that this berg was evidently grounded, the ice between it and the sea-ice being in fragments, from the rise and fall of tlie tides. We feared we might find that ]»oor John hail lost liis life aiiout this berg, for his tracks showed that he had ventured where wd man by daylight would dare to ]iut his fodt. One place gave palpable evidence where he hail followed iiruund to the south side and there fallen in. lUit from this lie had extricated hiuiseli', and continued around to the east side, where he again ventured. From appearances, I thought ■'olin in search of some jdaee where he could be iirolccted rnnii the winil and cold, where he could siee]i. lie passed iKi'oss the dangerous broken ice floating amid sea water on to i\ tiiiigue of the berg. He walked along a little cove that was nitifcd by overhanging ice ; he linds no safe ]ila('e there. Ihit where are his outward steps;' For a while we thought it irrtaiii that John was either in some of the recesses of this vast l»erg, or had made a false step, and gone down into the ilei p. Passing northerly, I liiially descried returning tracks. Ill' had made a fearful, desiierate lea]) from p. shelving alcove ; ( • I *<1 ' \\ I ' t r i ; i I: i| I I ! ' V ■{ u. i 254 LIFE WITH TIIK ESQUIMAUX. m h V . t to the main or sea-ico, ami tlionce, after ])assing a few rods oast, he turned again to his course sontli, whicli he had liursued beftnv turning to the berg. " It Avas now half-past 4 r.Ji. On we continued, thougli l.'ie steps of my companion were growing niO(k'rate. Down again we threw ourselves flat upon the ice. "While we were thiis resting listlessly, Johnston cried out, ' Hark ! I do henv the dogs.' Xo .sooner had he s]ioken this than the driver's crv came to our ears. We jumped up — looked away to the nortli- ea,st. Thank God ! Captain Bndington has sent us help. New life Avas ours. Kunnnitie and dogs, and two eo-helpcis, are fast approaching. I cannot express the thankful joyl'ul- ness of heart I felt, even in tlu; still doubtful issue of our search. Still on and on, to the south, we followed John's tracks. As T kiKnv Johnston would soon be overtaken, J quickened my ste])s, and .soon left him far behind. I tunicd a few minutes after, and who hailed me? ^ly nobh; friend the ea])tain himself. Now 1 felt sure we shoidd not retmii till the fate of tlie lost man should be determined. Captio")' 15 bid me iiiiike my way to the sledge, li 1' he knew I must be very much fatigued. He required tin; Innuit Charhy, the dog-di'iver, to take my ])laee iri tracking. It was a icdief to iih' and .lohnston that we received this assistance just as we did. "Captain B had set out a little jjast two, innnedialely t»n seeing the return of the major ]»art of the company ol" liw. He had vi.sited Look-out Ishind, and with his 'spy' had watche. ig a few vmls vliich lie had :iimed, i\w\\ I> and Johnston awaited our determination of the cour.se John had finally taken. John, we found, had endeavoured to mount the shore, hut the high, perpendieitlar walls of ice thrown u]t hy the ever-ehanging tide would not admit of his accomplishing the undertaking. " From behind these ice barriers the edges of sombre rocks peered throngh. Johnston was deceived therelty at one par- ticidar S])ot, and e.vclainied, ' There he is ! There ! do yon see ?' pointing excitedly to tlie point indicated. For a few moments all eyes wen; strained ; but sighting showed that John's tracks led easterly, and then south, around the spit of land, on the ice. Again we followed on for half a mile, when wc were led into a cove that was terminated hy a high rock hlnff. Here the ic(^ became rough. Captain V> and my- self were on the sledge, while Charley and Johnston ke])t directly upon the track. From tlie Iwttom or extreme line of the cove that inade up to the base of the indicated hlulf sprung out another ,spit, which swept around a little way to the south, its southern side being limited by the channel* through which we passed last I'all with the Rcfcur, up into the bay, where we made anchorage while we visited Frobishor Bay. As the tracks of the lost led uji into this recess. Cap- tain B and myself thought that John had made his way u[» into it for the purpose of passing directly across the neck (if the peninsula instead of going around it. "Charley and Johnston thought it best to centiiiue on hi,g track, while Captain 1> and myself concluded to pass on with the dogs and kummitie till we should reach the jilace where John would probably make the ice on tlm other side. The distance anmnd, we thought, could be iiui ailling. l>eforc we had jiassed out of sight of the track followers, wc heard tlu' loud liiit mournful toned voice (jf the Innuit Cha.-ey. We checked the dogs, turned them back, and thence followed up. Our eyes were watching intensely each mo\ement, each step * 111 tills idoii, ;it till' tiiiii", 1 \v:is iiii.stiikoii. 'i'lic cliiiniicl (leading to <'1i;i]m11 Inlet, is lull live mill's iiiuic to the .soutliWiinl dl' Fivui'li lloiul. Vide Chart. IT^rcS^- 1! \ |i ' Vi 4 c . i ■I I i r : Ij iH i ; i' H : ', i 25G I,IKK WITH TIIM KSOl'IMAT^N. '' )) f) i 1) of ("liailc.v. .\ll ill (Mu<' 111' st((])iu'(l, tlu'ii tliivw up hh anus nnd hands, lt'ttiii<<- tlicm fall slowly, di'oopiii,ulv. "It needed no otliev lanuuii^e tliaii what we saw in llir nioti(rns 111' Ihis nolile-hearled Innnit to toll lis the torrible tcrniinatinii of this day's senveh. "I'liarley and Johnston tunied to meet Caittain Pi and nivseir. Said they, 'V.'e'xe I'onnd him, and fear he is dead.' Noithev had ai)proaclied nearer than within halt' a dozoii rods li; ii;»i f .1 J i nil i..-^i' ini Ml -niozr.N u\.m> r ",..H ul'hiiii wiinni we iiail so lon_n- soneht. J Hew as last as my lindis wonid eairy me. A le-w moments found me -iTaspinn his arm. Il was as cold and ri^id as the munntains of ire around us ! "Deep sileiiee roiened tor awhile, as o\ir little eonipany ol four stood around the fro/A'ii bodv of dohn Brown. There, in :?!cr>e!-.jui.iiiMiiji«««w»'*Wi KItoZKN TO DKATH. <>l \' up his iU'ius r,, saw ill tl>'' s tlu; tiTvihlr lin r. ill"' av hi- i« •^'"■>"'- I" a do/eii rods Lw as last as uiv luul uu' graspiii;^ iinountains oV ir^' littlo iM.mpany "I' Irnwu. TlU'lV. ill tlie Jiiidst of tlie little circle, lay the Inriii of him who was lost, liiit now fouiul. Ihit uh, what a finding ! .Spare inc IVoia the like again ! " I liad hojied to find the lost man — to have become a guide to him — to have given hope to the despaiiiiig — to have saved hnmaii life ; and yet how thankful 1 felt that his fat(; had been truthfully di'tciniiued. " Kvideiitly, from hi.s tracks and the rigidness of his limhs, John had died some time in the morniii''-. From the iceherii fur a distance of two miles the footprints were cpiite fresh comjiared with the tracks we had seen leading to it. It is ijuite likely that in tln' covered shelving of the iceberg, whither he made his way so desperately, he s]»ent some of his time in resting — perhaps slee]iing. Jt was almost a sleep of death, for his tracks indicated feebleness — almost a blindness. Two rods before reaching the final spot of his death, we fomid wlieve lie had fallen down as he walked along, the disturbed snow showing that great effort had been made to regain his walking ])0sture. The place when^ we found him also t'x- liihited unmistakable signs of a terrible struggle to raise liim- si.'lf up again ; but alas 1 a foe as irresistible as iron had been fastening his fingers upon him all the night long. John had fniight like a true soldier — like a hero ; but he had to yiehl at last. He died facing the heavens, the left hand by his side, the right extended, and his eyes directed upward, as if the last iilijects mirrored by them were the stars htoking down upon liiiu in his death-struggles. His face bore evidence that his death was like sweet sleep. " Kvery article of John's clothing was iu its place — his hands mittened — his head, ears, and nose protected as well as tliev could lie l)y a liussian cap — his feet shielded by native lioots and stockings, and his body well clothed in woollen pmiients, over which was his sealskin jacket. "Well, we found the lost, determined his terrible fate, and now M'hat remained to be done? " We considered it im[iru(h'nt for us in attempt to convi'V ilie I'eniains back to the vessel ; we thought it our duly to Vii|,. I. s •';V ^ ! i !, ; m ill i , '^- 258 LII'E WITH THE ESQUnr.VUX. urn. n'^i^ \ ' II :ii-'\l show all becoming n-spect for the doiul, and equally otir duty to guard well ihe living against the exposures that threatened us on our return, for it was now five o'clock p.m., and we were i'ull ten miles by direct route from the ship. '•Captain r> and myself concluded to make his grave ashore, at the base of a noble mountain bhdf or headland, thiil would stand for ever as the monument of the deceased. But it was soon found that not a stone could be moved. We then decided to make his grave upon the ice, on the very spot wdiere he died, covering his form with the unspotted ice ami snow that lay in profusion around. This sad duty was performed with weeping hearts. "When all was completed, with reverential awe of the God of the heavens and the eartli, Ave bent over the grave of our frit-nd, and shed the tears of mourning, tempered with the hope that 'now it is better with thy spirit:' " With slow steps we rao%ed from this toward the ilogs and sledge, by which we were to travel for hours to our quarters. It was half-past five when wo left the grave of John lirowii. Our team of twelve dogs made rapid progress some of tlir way, while at times there seemed to be a ' hugging ' of tlic sledge-shoes to the snow that made the draught very heavy, AVe had some earnest work to do to keep ourselves from lree;img. Every now and then we took turns in jumping oil and running. Cajitain 15 had inilortunately ventureil -M with a pair of eivilization boots, having found his native oiie> too small. On tiie return passage he got Johnston to pidl ell one of his boots, as he found one foot freezing. This shnplc, ([uick act of pulling off the cai)tain's boot (with unmittiMU'il hand), gave Johnston a pile of frozen fingers. Half a dozen timt.- Johnston's nose was frozen, and as often L rublied it into order. 1 to k the precaution of keeping my.^elf in active exercise by runiiing along beside the sledge for more tliiin half of the way home. The thermometer was down to 4!l below the freezing point, with a fresh wind from the noilli west. Thus we had severe battling to do to keep iVom becoming subjects of King Cold. ,1, V— m i M iii WM Lially o\ir i\uty hat tlireateued [., and we were nuke lu9 grave : headlaml, tliul deceased, r.ul 30 luovod. ^^'■ )u the very spoi ispotted ice ami , sad duty was was comp^*^*^*'' ns and the earth, ,hed tlie tears oV T it is better with vard the ebgs aiul ;.s to our ciuarti'v^, ,e of John l^iowii. n-css some of tl\f '' hug;4ing ' of tlio •au-lit very lieavy. ep'om-selves fi'oiu ms in juviipiuii otv ;vtely ventured lUi iiul ids native uiie> lohnston to pull <'« ,1,1.4 This shnpl'', 1 (witli umnitU'iRMl .evs. llvdf u '!">»';' \ often I rubhed ii u;j; myself in aclivr x\<^ii for wore tliiin r was down to 4!> „d from the uovlli- ao to keep IV"'" RETUUN TO THE SHIP. 25!) " Every now and then I threw myself Hut on the sledge, there keeping myself well to the leeward of Captain B and the e.xecllent dog-driver Charley. I then, with face upturned, could see the workings of the Almighty in tho heavens above. The aurora was spanning the blue vault, painting in beauteous colours that part of the sky which .seemingly overhung the ever-to-be-rememl)ered spot where wi; had 1>id adieu to the remains of our friend, John Brown. " What think you, my friends, were my thoughts, as I lay with my eyes looking above — the glory of God's creation shilling upon me — as I was swiftly carried along, with the consciousness in my breast of having performed, on this holy day, simply my duty — the duty of man to man? " As we noared the vessel, groups of anxious friends came ■ lilt to meet us. IIow they peeretl among our inunber — all t\)ur of lis upon the sledge — to see if John Brown was among our company ! None of us could speak. It was like a I'lmeral train. "A voice from one, trembling between hopi; and fear, asked, as we drove alongside the Groir/e Ilntn/, 'Tell ns, did you Ihid him ? ' ' Yes,' I replied. ' "Was he dead ? ' continued the same voice. ' You have it ; alas ! it is too true,' was my answer. "Xow the terrihk' news thn> from (Uie to another — from liivecastle to steerage, all exclaiming, ' lIow sad — how terrible ail end'' " Having ]^arfaken of refreshments, and exchanged my native skin-dress — which was wringing wet with my profuse ])i'rspiration of the day — for my civilization clothes, which I Wear only when about the ship, I had to relate all the inci- ileuts connected with my search to the company around. " I was sorry to find every one who had been (jut engaging actively in the search completely ust'd up. The three from wliiiiu I parted a little after 2 v.M. did not get to the vessel iiiilil near six. i 1! ' ■.1 I 1 \ I ,i) 1 ,, ■ 1r ■ ( I I ' l.( up:' I , t ! ll 1 1 r l^C>() r.lFK WITH TllK KsyL'l.MAl'X. "The 'distance travclleil yesterday was full Ht'ty-oue English miles, a feat at which I myself am surpriseil. " On reachiiif; the vessel about 9 o'clock at night, we found there had been an arrival of lunuits (seven in number) on two sledges, with dogs, from Frobisher Hay settlement. They brought along a portion of the walrus deposited by Charley ami Koojesse on the other side of the land that lies between U8 and Frobisher Day. " These Innuits also brought the dog which the unfortunate Brown took with him as a guide. They met the dog out on Frobisher P»ay, returning toward the igloos. It had on simp]} the harness without the draught-trace, which, to all appear- ance, had Ijeen cut with a knife close U)» to the harness. This dog is a yotmg black oue, and was not suitable as a guide. Had Brown taken either of the others (he had his choice), he M'ould have l)een ccjiulucted safely to the vessel. But he felt sure he knew the way. How fatal that assurance has proved to him ! " Bruce, the com[)anion of Brown, amved with the paity of Innuits last evening ("> r.M.). AVhen coming, he was pushing on ahead of the ]tarty, anil saw, in the distance before him, u black creature which he took to ))e a hf((r. He turned upon his heel, and ran as fast as his legs would carry him back to the advancing .sledge ]>arty, crying ;> them vociferously to ' ki-cte' (hasten toward him), as a bear Avas after him. It proved to l)e the young, docile black dog of Ca])tain li 's, which John had taken as his guide to the vessel. Tin; draught-string of ookgook skin (large sealskin) had, without doubt, been used by -Tohn to fasten around his kum-iiigs (nativ(3 boot.s), to keep them properly on his feet. \\\' noticed, when we found him last evening, that his feet-geur had apparently just received the addition of new thongs. His tracks showed that his kuni-iugs had a tendency to slip down, anil to make him slipshod. " The natives brought the dog a^oiig with them. As they came across the land, when near Field P>ay they found when; til's liliick dug imd hiiu down t'i slcrp, jiiid tnund also thiil. I ■ ible lis ii guicU'. lI his choice), ho ^el. But he felt •anco has i^roved ivith the paity of , he was pushiu;^ ice before hiiii, n He tiivued npuii [irry him haclc to 11 vociferovxsly to ,s after him. U Cajitain 15 '^, the vessel. Tlu; viii) had, without id his kiim-iii.U^ u his feet. "*A<' that his feet-geiir II of new thongs. I tendency to shp ;ll tlliO'-ll. As tlll'V tliey found whi'vc I fduud also ttiiii. {■(INCI.I'SION OF THK SEAliCII. 201 as he rose, he walked round in circles, then struck westward, instead of the direction of the vos.sel. This certainly shows that the dog had not answered the purpose as guide to pool- John. " How unfortiinate tliis young man, John lirown, has been in this matter ! Ifad he listened to the advice of either Captain B or his own com])anif)n, or to the v.'arnings of the two Innuits, Charley and Koojes.se, this sad end of his life which I now record would not liavi' been made. " His age, 1 understand, was eighteen at the time of his death. His parents reside in France. " ' Rr(jvir,iil III/ iiiiif'' liuiiiUit—Pi.i'ih OIL lh( la' — liiiutils cnrrii'i/ ■ml in Sn) —Sluim liim — bii'in eaten — Three mnatki ainii/ /ruin hi ml— [{el urn iif llie I'nrhi, mere S/,eftiiiiis — Thri/limj fiieidenli —An liiiinit riirrieil ilmrn In/ ii Wlml, (tnd iiflern-ards saved — A Mun'n Leij sniijiiwd nil' — SnJii'n llnslnnid hilled Ini (in AriiUinehc — Inciilenh af While .Ven's Perils iind. /■Jsenjies — lleiieif Snnn'- sturni — Duuj/er to Mule Jimjers and his Innuil (Iniilc — Dinj Jkirkekiirk saves Ihe III— Commencement of S/triiuj — ^1 ulhor's Oceiipnliom — Makes some Instrn- 'III' Ills for his I'se in explnrine/ — Plans — Stranije Informaliiin ijalhered frmn the Xalires —Tradtliiin eoneernimj While .Wm -Fivldsher's /■^.e/iedi/inn. > m '.!' t H' Foil sovcrnl days nl'l' i the sonrcli wliicli was miitic tor ]innv Bi'owii on the ITtli nf Maiili, 1 was nmch tioublod with boils, the result of eating the ship's salt meats, which caused gicat prostration, and rondcr( d me unalde to do anything Init take a few observations and register the weather. It was noticed by every one tliat T had considerably decreased in weight ; indeed, my wliole frame showi-d signs of hard usage, and tliat 1 was getting emaciated; but, having a gooil constitution, I soon recruited, and after a sliort period of rest, [ was able to get about my work again. On the 20th of ^March several of our Innuit friends arrived from varioiis places where they had been hunting and sealing, thus striviiig to find means of subsistenci'. The Inniits are, as I have frequently said, most persevering sealers, aU' I will go, with their dogs, even in the very coldest of weather, and under most dangerous circumstances, to hunt for setil-lioles. The sagacious dog, on snufling the air ami finding it charged with seal odour, follows it to the windward till he leads his master to the very spot where a seal has its liole. The man then proceeds irroqtcctiitij with Ids spcnv through one to three feet depth of snow, until he finds tin; small opening in the ice leading to the main seal-hole. Tlic hole found, the long spindle shank of the sjiear is withdrawn, in ■ird 'iiil l(iSit( -Sill If -Hitiini of the I'liriij. ■kd dnva I'll II H'A(»A lii's JlKshiniil k'tllid liii l\tii'ii)ii'>t — lli'i''!l '^11""'- — DiiiJ lidi-Lrk-i'i-k sinrs ts—3Iiiki:i Hiiiiir liinlni." I'liKillini nitllnrid fi-iua sin r's /■:.ijirililii'ii- vas miitlt' lov I'oi'i nml)UHl with boils, wliich cft\isc(l gvoat any tiling Imt take >r. It was noticed creased in weiglit ; ard usage, and thai rood constitution, 1 vest, I was able to nuit friends arrived lunting and sealing, THE KWUIMAUX SKAI. DOO. 2i\:] carefully avoiding .11 disturhanee I.I l.*^ i^ L25 Sll U 116 % V5 7; ^ > ^^^# /^ <2r .y V ^J 7 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WEKSTIII,N.Y. 145S0 (716)t73-4S03 \ ;V ^> •N? \\ ' 1^ 6^ ff 204 LIKIC WITH THK KSQUIMAUX. ; .'■:nlii Vhii <■ ( V 4 ) ■; Ugfirng, Ebierbing, and Tookoolito ; and I was glad to find them well, though the latter two had suffered considerably since I had been with them. Tookoolito informed me that a short time after my de- parture from Cornelius Grinnell Bay, the Innuit "Jack," while out sealing, had nearly lost his life by falling througli the ice into the swiftly-running tide. He only saved himsell' by catching his chin on to the edge of some firm ice just as the current was sweeping him under, but his gun, powdci', and everything else belonging to him was carried away. Slic also told me that the angeko, whom I have formerly mentions I as being so lazy, had, with his two wives and this same " Jack," nearly perished by being driven out to sea on sonic ice that broke away. They had gone on a sealing excursidn several miles up the coast, northerly and easterly of where I had spent my time during the trip of January and February- All at once the ice on which they were became detached, and away they drifted to sea. In a few days wind and tide set the floe back again, and thus they escaped a terrible death. Ebiei'bing related to me several incidents of the fearful exposure of his Iniuiit friends, who had, at various times, been swept away from land on the sea-ico. In the winter of 1859, the Innuit " Sampson," and a party of fifteen others, were out walrus hunting on the ice in Frn- bisher Bay, when a gale came on, and drove the ice out to sea. Escape was impossible. On and on the ice moved. The despairing Tnnuits erected an igloo, and then awaited their fate. The cold was so terribly severe that most of the dogs perished. Two survived for some time, but had finally to be eaten as food. Thus for thirty days the Innuits con- tinued, until at length the ice upon which they were floating united to some near the land, and they were enabled to roach an island in the bay. Thence they got upon the main shore, and returned to their families alive, but such skeletons iu form that they were hardly recoj^nisable by their friends. One of the party, from weakness, had fallen into the sea, but was taken out again, his garments immediately freezing hard !'■■ f dad to find . considerably after my do- unuit "Jack," ailing through saved himsell' rni ice just as s gun, powder, ed away, ^ln' erly mentioned and this same to sea on sonic iling excursion (■rly of where 1 ,' and February e detached, and id and tide set errible death. of the fearful •ions times, been »," and a party the ice in Frn- the ice out to the ice mo veil. d then awaited lat most of tlu' , but had finally ;hc Innuits con- ley were floating enabled to roach the main shore, ich skeletons in ly their friends, into the sea, but sly freezing hard THUII-LING INCIDKN'TS. 265 upon him. The Innuits, Sharh'ij, Kop-e-a, whom 1 called " Dick," and most of those now at the lower village, were of this company. Another incident mentioned to me was that a party of Innuits, a few years ago, went out on the sea-ice walrus hunting, and being driven away from land, were unable to reach it for three months/ Fortunately for them, however, tiiey did not suffer as the others had done. Walruses were caught, and thus they were enabled to exist. Not a winter passes but similar occurrences take place among the Innuits. Indeed, during our stay in Kescue Harbour several persons were carried away on the ice, Imt in a day or two afterward succeeded in getting ashore again. Numerous anecdotes of remarkable escapes were at dill'er- ent times related to me by the Innuits. One or two may be aptly l)rought forward here. Tlu; following was told me by Tookoolito. In tlie spring of 18.") 7, a company of Esquimaux, natives of Northvmiberliind Inlet, were far out on the floe, by open water, for the purpose of whaling. A whale was at length seen movuig leisurely along within striking distance, when the Esquimaux succeeded in making fast to it by four har- poons, each of which was fastened l)y a ton to fifteen fathom line of ookgook hide to a driit/ made of an uncut sealskin inflated like a life-preserver. By some incautious act of one of the harpooncrs, one of his l(>gs became entangled in the line, and quick as thought the whale dragged him down into the sea out of sight. His companions were horror-stricken, and for awhile all around was still as death. The whole party earnestly peered out upon the bliie waters far and near, looking for the reappear- ance of their comrade. They paced to and fro ; when at last a shout came from one of their number — "The lost is found!" — which brought all to one spot. The circumstance which led to this fortunate discovery was the sight simply of the finger-tips of one hand clinging to the top edge of the floe, The rescuers, on looking over the 1 i 'i' *■ «' 266 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. , > I verge, found the almost dead man moving his lips, as il' crying for aid, but his voice was gone ; not even a whisper responded to his most desperate stmggles to articulate. Another minute, it was certain, would have sealed his fate — an ocean grave. It seems that, on coming up from the " great deep," the imfortunate harpooner had attemi)ted to draw himself on to the floe, but this he was too enfeebled to do. When this whale turned flukes, as it instantly did on being struck, it went down perpendiciilarly for soundings, as the Mysticetus (Greenland whale) generally does. Its great speed, and the resistance of the " drug," with that of the dmr/ of the victim's body, caused such a strain upon the line that it parted. On this very fortunate moment tlie buoyant " drug " shot up like an arrow, bringing with it its precious freight — a living soul. A few weeks after this same whale, with the four harpoons fast to it, was found in drift ice dead. The Esquimaux state that whenever a harpoon penetrates to the flesh of the whale, it will surely die. Harpoons struck into the blubber, and remaining there, will not prove fatal ; it is only so wh(!n it goes through the bhibber into the " krang " (flesh). Another incident, but of a most fatal character, occurr(>(l not many years ago in Field Bay. A party of Innuits wen- out in two oo-mi-ens (large skin boats) when a whale was struck. The ^' in running out, whipped round a leg of the harpooner, in' '// tearing it from the body at the hip-joint ! The shocr capsized the boat and all that wore therein. The sea all aiound the victim became thick with ohi discovered frozen in the ice some thirty miles distant, ami were transported to the house by means of dogs and sledges. The bone burned well, being full of oil, and it was easily cut up with an axe. An incident connected with the transport of this bone is worthy of record. One day in February, a younger brother of Captain Quayle, with a companion, set out for the bone depot on a dog-sledge. On their return a furious snow-storm came on, and the dogs, as well as the men, lost their way. Dark- ness overtaking them, they determined to rest till morning under the lee of an island, but during the whole night it was a terrible battle for life. The only salvation for them was in pounding each other, wrestling, tumbling, kicking, &c. Oc- casionally the " death -sleep " would be found creeping over them, when all their strength and resolution were called into action in the manner just described. The next day they arrived in safety at the house. The stock of provisions left with the party was exhausted before any .ship arrived, but whale-meat, seals, venison, and ducks were found in al)undance. The natives also were very kind, sharing with them whatever game they found. Thus they lived until Sejjtendier, 1852, when Captain Parker, in an English whalei", took them away. On March 27th another man came near being frozen \o death. Strangely enough, it was Bruce, the very companion of the unfortunate Brown ! It appeared that Bruce, who was still under attacks ot scurvy, had again gone to the Innuit settlement at Oopungno- wing, but one morning suddenly determined upon returning to the ship. Esquimaux " Bob,' with whom he was staying, insisted upon his remaining that day, as the weather was toi) bad. But no ; Bruce luoiild go, and at once started oH' alone. Seeing that the white man was apparently bent on his own destruction, or did not know what he was about, the dark- skinned but spotless-hearted and noble-minded Esquimaux " Bob," being himself unable to leave, engaged an Innui^ woman, whom we called Bran Nev\ to accompany Bruce es distant, and jrrs and sled;:;es. ; was easily cut of tills bone is unger brother of !■ the boue depot inow-storni came leir way. Dark- i-cst till morning hole night it was I for them was in cicking, &c. Oc- ud creeping ovt'v I were called inti) io next day they ity was exhausted eals, venison, and ves also were very ;hey found. Thus )tain Tarker, in an ar being frozen to le very companion under attacks of luent at Oopungnc- \ upon returning to 11 he was staying, le weather was too ' started oiV alone, tly bent on his own vs about, the davk- ninded Esquimaux engaged an Innui accompany Bruce IIKAVy SNOWSTOHM. 201) The good creature readily did so, and by her means (as Bruce admitted) he was enabled to reach the vessel in safety. Another circumstance occurred, which, though not very serious in results, might have proved so, had it not been for my dog Barbekark. On the 28th of March Mate Rogers started for the whaling depot in Frobisher Bay. He had with him sundry articles re- cpured for spring operations, and a sledge and dogs, driven by Koojesse. Among the dugs was my Greenlander, Barbekark. They left at G a.m. the weather then moderate ; but at noon it was blowing a hard gale from the north-east, with thick- falling snow, which continued during the day. At half-past nine in the evening one of the ship's otftcers, Mr. Lamb, going upon deck, heard the cry of dogs, and soon found that Mr. Rogers was returning. In a few moments, to our astonishment, for the gale was severe, he and Koojesse, with the sledge, arrived alongside, and soon afterward the mate was down in the cabin, but so completely overpowered by exhaustion that he could hardly speak. His face Avas the only spot, in appearance, human about liim, and even this was covered witli snow-wreaths pelted at him by the ruthless stonn. After sufficient time for restoration, he related the incidents of the past fifteen hours. It appears that, as they passed from Cliapell Inlet to Field Bay, at about 1 o'clock p.m. it blew quite a gale, and the air was so filled with snow that the;<' could hardly see the dogs before them. Here Koojesse adv'sed that they should build an igloo, and remain in it until the end of the gale, but ]Mr. Rogers thought it better they should return home to Rescue Harbour, after resting a few minutes and refreshing themselves with some snow-water. This, with some difficulty, they obtained, and at two they started back for the vessel. At first they got on pretty M-ell as far as Parker's Bay, keeping the ridge of mountains running south-east and north- west on their left, and within sight. On reaching Parker's Bay, they then struck across the ice toward the ship. This ■ \ m Ji ; 'P ' ' -ii^ ' 1 ^ ! f i1 ' ^11: "H f t i'i 1 ' [ . t Mllfi 270 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX, was almost fatal to them. Esquimaux dogs are often iiu- tnanageablo when it is attempted to force them in the teeth of a storm, and so it ]n'oved now. The leader of the team, a dnn' belonging to the Innuit Charley, lost his way, and confused all the rest. The snow-storm was upon them in all its fury, and men, as well as dogs, were becoming blinded. Presently the leading dog directed the team towanls some islands noiU' the head of the bay ; but, on approaching them, it was seen that Barbekark was struggling to make a (lijfircnt route, and these islands convinced the two human minds that dog saga- city, when known to be true, was best when left to itself in such emergencies. Accordingly, Barbekark was allowed to have his own way, and in a short time he led them direct to the ship. I asked Mr. Eogers what they hud intended to do if the vessel could not be found. His reply was, that when it became dark, Koojesse had once proposed to stop for the night on the ice, and, to insure as much safety as possible, they were to throw themselves among the dogs, cover them- selves with the two bearskins they had, and thus try to preserve life until daylight would help to show them where they were. The end of this adventure was, that Koojesse remained so far blind for days that he could not see to do anything ; and Mr. Eogers's face, in its uncovered portions, had actually tinned to a deep dark red, while the shielded parts were perfectly white, thus showing Avhat contrasts these Northern stcrms can paint in one short day. A lesson to be gathered from this, as I then thought, and still believe, is to allow the natives to do what they consider best in such times. They thoroughly understand the way to prepare for and withstand the warring elements of their own regions, and it is well for white men always to heed their advice, however unreasonable it may seem to be at the time. On the 8th of April the cooking apparatus and other ma- 1 trial were moved up from below, where they had been during; the whole winter, and thus what we might call symptoms oi' FlfOBTSHKU's EXPEDITIOX. 271 spring (tlumyli there is no real sprlny in those regions) pre- sented themselves. ]iut Iiere a lew extracts from my diaiy at this time may be suitable. "Aiml 8t/i, 1801.— This p.m. the party of eight which left the Gamjc Ilcnri/ last Sunday for Frobisher I'ay, to trade for walrus meat, returned. They were accompanied by the Innuit Sharkey, a man as dark-coloured as a negro. A large quantity of M-ahus meat was obtained, which furnished us with abun- dant fresh food for ourscilves, and plenty for the dogs. To-day wo had venison for dinner." The First Traditionori/ Ilistori/ fjnined from the Esqnimmix rdatiwj to Frobishcr's Ex].)cdition. About the 1st of April, 1861, there was quite an intelligent Esquimaux, named Koojesse, in the neighbourhood where I was (Rescue Harbour), who occasionly, in his connuunications, made reference, in a vague way, to a certain matter which at first excited biit little of my attention, and yet, in the sequel, it will be seen tliat it related to what was of the most im- [tortant character. I had several conversations with this Ksquimaux in the presence of Captain Budington, who, being uioi-e proficient at that time than myself in the Innuit ver- nacular, assisted me as interpreter. This native spoke of a time long, long ago, when kod-lu-nas (white men) built a vessel on an island ': the bay lower clown (Frobisher Bay). Spoke also of brick ^^ ' ■■,i ik-e-oo-koo-loo OK(j," small red pieces), timber, chips, &c. as having been left there. Tlie idea of a vessel having been built in those regions seemed too inqirobable to be entertained for a moment. So unreasonable did the story appear of constructing a ship in such a perfectly woodless country, that I thought it a waste of time and paper to make a record of it ; therefore what transpired in the first two or three interviews with the Esquimaux Koojesse, in relation to this subject, is not in my original notes. Finally, ill a few days, I began in my reflections to connect the Esqui- maux report with the time when Martin Frobisher made his I !l ' i I Jl V III ^ '11 ' 1 !l 'li (I m. i! II' i 272 I.IPK Wirn TMK KfcJyUlMAUX. iliscovt'vies, iiiul siinulti neously coimiioiiCL'tl Iri make ivcorJ of wliatuvcr was .stated to bo in HiibsLMiuciit iiitiTvicws. The commciiceinout ol'.saiil notes in uutlenlate of April Utli. 18G1. I now extract them from my original journal, as made immediately after an interview with the Ks(|uimaux Koojesso on the P.M. of same dale : — " Among the traditions handed down from one generation to another, there is this ; that many — very many years ago, some white men bnilt a ship on one of the islands of Frobisher Hay, and went away. " I think I can see througii this in this way : Frobishei-, in 1578, assembled a large part of his fleet in what he called ' Countess of Warwick Sound ' (said to be in that bay below lis), when a council was held on the 1st of August, at which it was determined to send all persons and things on shore upon ' Countess of Warwick Island !' and on August 2d orders were proclaimed, by sound of trumpet, for the guidance of the company during their abode thereon. For reasons stated in the history, the company did not tarry here long, Init departed for ' Metn Titroi/nita,' and thence to England. " Now, may not the fiict of timbers, chips, &c. ike. having been found on one of the islands (witiiin a day's journey of here) many years ago, prove that the said materials were of this Frobislier's company, and that hence the Innuit tradi- tion ? " In a few days I hope to be exploring Frobisher Iky. I may thereafter have something to add to the matter above re- ferred to." — I now turn to other matters in my journal. " April ^Jth. — As I write, the main cabin table of the ship is surrounded by natives playing dominoes. There are Ebier- bing, IMiner and his wife, Charley and his wife, Jim Crow with his wife. " The gale of to-day has been terrific. One would have to contest sharply with the elements in order to breathe, if outside of the cabin for a moment. In the afternr(»secution of my M'ork, I will do my duty as a j,'i'(t},'n4)her and a humanitnriiin. "April Vlth. — This morning,' is {gloriously fine. I must do (mt-door work to-diiy. I will ofi" lor ii trip np IUidiiij,'toii ^Fount, and from its \wak take some iin{,des and beariuj^'s ol' prominent places around and ahout tlu' l)ay, • • * Just returned, and a line time I have had of it. It was, however, dan<,'('rons husincss {,'oinj,' nii Iht; mountain's steep, ley, and liard, snow-covered sides, hut it was even worse eomiu{,' ihni'ii. Any one who is e.\)K'ri('iiced in mountain excursions, especially in these regions, nmst know that the latter is far more dilhcull than the former. " When at the sunnuit it was very interesting. I had an Innuit companion with me, and, while 1 took my observations, he slept on a beil of snow, and seemed as comfortable as any white man on a bed of down. As we descended, he male steps for us with a long, sharp stone which lie had picked up f«tr the pur^tose ; but even then we had to exercise great caution. A mishap might have endangered our lives, and also my instruments. "To-night the aurora is beautiful as usual. Its rays shoot np somewhat more dome-like than before. It extemls north- west around t(» the south, and thence to the east. How many are the times I am blessed with the sight of this phenomenon. Its changes are constantly going on. I never see it twice alike. Every moment the scene changes. In bright disorder, the heavens are almost nightly painted with the blaze of thi.-< incomparalde, inconipreheiiHib/c light. As its brightness oft is mirrored by my eyes and soul, I often feel that I am truly " ' Arrayed in glory and enthroned in light.' " Eleven o'clock, nif/ht. — A few minutes ago I came from deck. The aurora then spanned the heavens near to the zenith ; a few minutes later — I have just been on deck again — all is gone ; not a l)eam anywhere visible. The stars have tlL U I'KK.I'Altl'; TO KXI'LOKK rilOBISIlEU UAY. L'75 ; outnt for the ^, 1 will do my inc. ImuHttlo , xxy Ikiclin^^tou aiul be'Uviu^H of # « • ,hisi It was, lu.w-evi'v, vse couiiu}^ '^""". irsioufl, esiH'ciftUy far wove difficuU estins. I^'^'^"^' 1- luy fAiscvviitions, ^oiufovtable as any "sccndea, he ina'^e , he had picked up to exercise tj;veut I our lives, aud also ,al. Its rays shoot It extends north- leeast. llowW'v>'y of this plienouienou. never see it twic' In In-igUt disorder, ith the hlaze of tlu^ „ its hrightuess oft i^ A that 1 aui truly .111 W'Ait' e, ago I came from loavens ucar to tlw t been on deck agaui iible. The stars have M. now all to themselves, .Ju[titer beaiiny the puhn, as he out- Kliines them all. " Jiirif 15//i. — Have had a Ion*,' tramp to-day roniid the head of Field Jiiiy, triiinj,Miliitin^' and makini,' observations. Koo- jt'sse aceompnnit'd me fbi- awhile, but tla^ charms of sealin<,' soon took him away, and some time afterward, when I was on a mountain peak, I .saw him at a distanc • by the aid of my j^lass, most unmercifully puni.shin<,' hi« do;,', probably because the poor animid could not find a seal i;,'loo. The Innuits, when thi'y do ])unisli doj;s, beat tht.-m cruelly. "Ajiril 17 til. — Yestenlay I took my first luniir observation. 1 did it alone, expecting,' only to obtain an approximation to the true lonyitude of this [dace. To-day I have taken another, with assistants to measure altitudes at tlu? same time. " I have had e([ually unexpected success in inakin;:; some of my own instruments. Bi'lnj^ without a protractor, 1 made one, the other day, from a ]>iece of copi)cr which had formed a portion of the licxrnc's slieathin}f ; and this served a double purpose, l)eing useful in my chart-work, aiul also remaining as a relic of the once memorable expedition scnooner. Another instrument I had also to make, and succeeded in making, though it occupied nuich time, namely, an artificial horizon. I constructed it with various rontrivances of my own, and now I have both these instruments liy mo as pleasing memen- toes of my sojourn in these dreary regions, wliere no stores exist to supply me with articles so indispensaltlc. April 19///. — To-day I was not a little amused to see the rig in which the laughing Innuit Sharkey appeared. A present was made him of a new wool shirt, edged all round, except the fiaps, with acavht—hn'u/it Jltim'tiuj red. lie proudly strutted around among us white folk with this o)i the outside of all his other clothes, wearing it like a frock ! " ^ij;y(7 20th. — To-day the snow embankment around the ship has been taken away, and the crew are busy putting the vessel in complete oriler for service. Paint aud varnish arc now freely used in the process of renovation. Ajjril 21st. — I am preparing to go over to-morrow to the T 2 t( (if 'V ■111 it' ' m J! t liA riiifftfitiffti 276 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. i I i] > li n ; (it: n liiuuit scttkiment on Ki'obislier Bay, intending to oxi)love aronnd the waters mapped out by the geographers as Frobisher Sfraif. ;My wish is to chart the lands caroxmd that phxce witliin the next month, and even to do nmch more. Koojesse has promised to go over witli me if the weather will permit. " I have omitted to mention the ' spot ' on the sun that I first saw on the 19th when taking observations. At the mo- ment I thought it was a delect in my sextant glass, but afterward found it to be on tlie face of old Sol. " Ticcnti/ miiuikshi'fon' mvlnhjht. — L have just returned from deck entranced by the fires that are burning in the heavens ! A new plaij to-night by the aurora — at least so to me. Going tip, T saw that tlie moon was struggling to penetrate, with her bori'owed light, tlie white clouds that enshrouded her. Look- ing avf)und, J found the heavens covered \ni\\ pditc dancers clothed in white. jNIy powers of description of this peculiar ai)pearance and workings of tlu' aurora at this time are inade- quate. There is no colour in the aurora to-night ; it is simply white, like the world beneath it. " Muhiiijlif. — [ have been on deck again. I am now satisfied that I have occasionally seen the aurora during this month in the daytime, wlien the sun was well up in its course and hihining l)rightly. "1 now retire to my couch f(n" some refreshing sleep, pre- paratory to malcing an effort in the morning for commencing the I'xploratiitn of Frobisher Bay." n .'i ^ 1 iiiiniwiiiii ;l iig to oxplovo rs as ¥roljislvev lud that vlucti lovo. Koojcsse r will permit, the Sim that I s. At the mo- itant glass, hut istvctixvncdfrom in the heavens ! otomc. Going ni'tvate, with her ided her. Look- Lth petite dancers I of this peculiar is time are inade- ight ; it is simply [ am now satisfied ing this month in [u its course and •oshing sleep, pvc- if for commencing ClIAI'TEll XY. First Excursion in Frohishcr liiiji—Tmrclliiujon llic Ice — A Tradition ivnccni- imj White Men Miistiarj a Ship — The lauuit Villnije — Tiixr-puk-ju-a—Kterri) living with l/ie Niitircs—" Chariniin/" a Seol—Kolrrjalin's Birthp/ace— Kingaite — Kurmnwmig — Aiithur (ulopta Inniiit Life — Trip ((long the Coad — The " Ice-foot "—Siinuncr liexting-pldces of tlie Inniiit.i—Snndri/ Ar^elc/i belonging to a irreeh'dShij>—Griindeiir of Kingoite Movnlainn—The (Irinnell (llueicr — A Seal Hunt — Fcnsling—T/ic Seal'.i Eijes given to noungent Child — Knowledge coming to an Inquirer — Tide entering the Igloos at Nigld — Authm- becomes anAngeko — Return Journey — Laughable Incident — A tight Fit— Curious Mountain Mark — Abundance of Animal Life — Arrival at Tuxrpukjua and at Annau-a's — An animated Sunday Picture. On Monday morning, April 22d, 18G1, at half-past 10 o'clock, [ started on my trip — the th'st yet made by me into Frobislior Hay. My guide and com])anion was Koojesse ; and as we shoidd have to cross a neck of land Itetwcen the two bays, and thence travel on foot ujjon the ice, I could not carry miich haggago. All, therefore, that I took was the following : — My native tuktoo jacket, pants, and mittens, an extra pair of native boots and stockings, my charts and chart material, protractor, dividers, parallel and plain rule, artificial horizon, with bottle of mercury, a pocket sextant, azimuth compass and tripod, marine glass, thermometer, besides beads and several plugs of tobacco, for presents to tlie natives With these articles pendent to a strap passing over my slioulders, across my breast, and down my back, I departed. Our course from the ship M'as westerly to the other side of Field Bay, where we struck tlie land, and met some of the natives with dogs and sledge, eouveyhig walrus liide, meat, and blubber to the vessel. A couple more were also going thither to obtain eye-water for Sterry, who was at tliat time living with some of the people near the island called Oopungnewing. From Firld ]?ay onv track" was over the «* N )! .J. ! i " , -.hA- jJ^- 1 I 278 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. f > ■ 'i.ii > II J (Mf I ; } '; ' 1 ,i ' mn mountain-pass much frequented by the natives. Tliis pass, which I have named after Bayard Taylor, was, in some parts of it, very steep and fatiyuing, bixt the scenery was grand and captivating. Half-way on the route we stopped at a spring of delicious water, and there had our dinner. Thence we continued to ascend until reaching the summit of the pass. We then commenced our descent by following a course between high rocks, along a path that was,* in one or two places, very steep. Presently, after passing through a magnificent gorge, w(; came on to a small inlet leading up from an arm of Countess of "Warwick Sound. This we traversed for about an eighth of a mile, until, coming to an abriipt turn where a bold, bluff mountain was on either side, I caught sight of Frobisher Bay, and the mountains of Kingaite beyond. The view was, to me, quite exciting. The ice-covered bay, with the distant peaks of Mda Incognita, and the dark, abrupt clift's at our side, seemed a glorious picture to one, like myself, beholding it for the first time. The sun was now descending, biit the moon's silvery rays would serve to guide us on, therefore we hastened forward, though the distance was yet some miles to travel. In a short time more we were traversing the snow-^^Tcaths that covered the bay-ice, and, as we passed on, Koojesse pointed out a place at our right which he said was where the " white men, a long time ago, had masted a ship;" but this seemed so improbable that I did not at that time believe him. The island we were now going to was the one Annawa and his family went to at the time we escorted them part of the way the previous fall (see page 130), and we now intended to rest there for the night. But it was quite 9 P.M. before we arrived, and then some of the family were in bed. This, however, did not prevent our having a prompt and most friendly reception. The aged Annawa and all those with him quickly gave us food, and a prompt offer of hospitality for the night. They were all much rejoiced to see me, and, though !<..'.! ; 1' is. Tliis pass, in some parts ny was grand ng of delicious ■e contimied to i^ss. We then e between liigli vo places, very icent gorge, we arm of Comatess )ont an eightli of ere a bold, blutf )f Trobislier Bay, view was, to me, ;be distant peaks lifts at our side, f, beliolding it for oon's silvery rays hastened forward, vavel. In a short oaths that covered jse pointed out a ! the " white men, it this seemed so >ve him. e one Annawa and them part of the ve now intended to te 9 P.M. before we ere in bed. This, prompt and most , all those with him f hospitality for the iee me, and, though CLOSE 8LEEPIN0 QUARTERS. 279 there was no " spare bed," yet I was cordially invited to share theirs. Soon afterward, tired and sore with my long walk of near twenty miles over ice, mountain, and ice again, I retired to rest as best I could. That night my sleep was a sound one, though I was tightly squeezed, the sleepers being numerous, and all in the same bed ! There were nine of u.s, besides the infant at the breast — a boy lU- feet in lieight, of portly dimensions ! The order of our sleeping was as follows : Key-e-zhune, tlie wife of Annawa, lay in her place by the ik-ku-mer or fire- light, with "infant" Koh-vk-jnn between herself and her husband ; then next to him was the child Oo-suk-je ; I lay alongside of the child, Koojesse next to me ; then came Esh-ee-loo, with his wife Oonga, all of us facing iipward. Then, Avith feet at our faces, were a young man Innuit, and the little girl Kim-mi-loo, who lives with Annawa. The space in which the ten were compacted and interwoven was less than as many feet ! Of course, I had to sleep in my day-dress, as no spare bed is kept in reseiTe for company, nor have they a tuktoo covering more than they need for the family ; birt I got along through the night after a fashion. It was, however, not very pleasant. Whenever I attempted to turn to relieve my aching bones, a little boy by my side roared like a young lion, awaking all the sleepers, and thus a confusion followed that would have deprived me of farther slumber but for my great fatigue. However, the night passed on, and early in the morning I slipped out as a snake from his decidnoxis epidermis, and prepared myself for a walk. The igloo was built at the base of a mountain, and up this I ascended until, reaching its summit, I had a good view of the region around me. I was now where I had long hoped to be. Below, and encircling the island, was a field of ice, making an excellent footway for travel. To the south and the west were the open waters of Frobi.sher Bay, its surface dotted over with broken ice, which was quietly floating about. This however, just then, was vexatious, as it prevented me from making my intended .sledge-journey to the westward. if* ,M i I i \ t II SI I 9f 1 if 200 1,1 FK WITH THK FSQUIMAUX. ' ' I * n \% f fi r^e. • Eosoliition Islitiul and Mr/(( Incoyiiila were also in si^ht (the former visible on the horizon, proliably by refraction) ; and at my back the bold mouiu.iiu.s seemed all but tonchinu; me, though some miles distant. Ou the top of the mountain 1 found many small pieces of lime-stone, and, while collecting some of them, Annawa and two other Innuits joined me. They had come for the purpose of looking out to see if any seals or walrus were near ; and when, through my glass, I discovered one, they were olf immediately. Soon afterward I perceived them on the ice prepared for the hunt. After staying on the summit nearly an hour, I descendeil, and found a substantial Innuit breakfast of walrus-meat and soup ready for me. This breakfast had been prepared by Oonga, wife of Esheeloo, both of whom shared Annawa's igloo. This igloo of Aimawa's Avas adorned on the exterior with a score of walrus skulls and tu.sks. The ftimily had lived here, as 1 have already mentioned, for some time alone, but latterly their privacy had been much invaded by some of the ship's company, and by several Innuits from the North Star and upper villages. Among these latter I recognized l^ucr, >\ith his wife Tirrmoitf/, and Artarkparu, brother ni Amiawa. There was also Pn.fo, the mother of that Anglo- Saxon child before referred to ; and Paiilooi/rr (Blind George), whom 1 noticed facing the sun, as was his way when it shines. He immediately recognized my voice, and gladly greeted me when I hailed him. These, and many more, were domiciled in some half dozen igloos built near Annawa's ; but there was also another village, called Tirer-piik-jii-n, Avhere several Iiniuits resided, and to this, after breakfast, 1 bent my way, taking Koojessc; with mo. Before starting, T delivered everything 1 had, as was customary with tlu' Innuits, into the hands of Nood-le-yong for safe keeping. AVe then started about nine o'clock, taking a course over the hillv centre of the island. Arriving at tlu' top, I heard a sound filling the air as if something was sweeping by. It was like the r; h of many waters, or the !■ ,0 in si^lit (tlu' action) ; and at t tuucliing nie, small pieces of m, Annawa and • for the pnrpo«e were near ; and (, tliey were otT them on the ice our, I descended, wah'us-meat and eeu prepared by shared Annawa's A on the exterior The family bad ' some time alone, ivaded by some of 5 from the North ittor I recognized rkparn, brother of ,er of that Anglo re, were It near Annawa's ; ed Tirer-pi'H"-"' i, after breakfast, I g 1 had, as was is of Nood-le-yong nine o'clock, takin.u 1. Arriving at tlu' if something was iiany waters, or the BI.INJ) CF.nlUil', AND MIS D Al-CllTKl;. 281 groaning of ice far away. I asked Ivoojttsse what it was, and lie replied, AFeituks (ducks). I thought it could not U' ])ossib]e, but was a wliinisieal reason given by Innuits for something they know i-xists, and yet cainiot com[ireliend. I laughed, shrugged my shouUlers, and then passed on. We arrived at the other village after a walk of about thret> miles, and there I met ^Mr. Sterry, the Gmi'iir Henry's carpenter. iii.iNn i;r.ci|ciii: ash his HArciirrmi. Fie was suffering from snow-blindness, brought on by exposure u]ion the ice while out with a party of Innuits walrus hunting. He had ol)tained leave of absence from liis duties on board, and was now living with the natives, " keeping house " (igloo) as thoxigh he was of the country. Together we went on a hill to watch the movements of the Innuit Miner, who, with a gun, was scaling. We saw him working his ^\'ay almost imperceptibly along in his ki-a through tlie ojienings in the ice toward his coveted prey. I Ml f \ I'l \ 1 !' 'I , V . \\ 282 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. A i •which rested quietly unconscious of his presence. As Miner approached, he kept up a loud, peculiar noise, a mixture of Inuuit singing and bellowing, which seemed to work as a charm upon the seal. Every few moments he would lay doMu his gun and make a stroke or two with his long, doiible- bladed oar ; then the seal, as if alarmed, would seem about to depart. As soon as the slightest motion indicative of this appeared. Miner wruld again seize his gun and aim, at the same time vehonicntly increasing the tones of his soal-song. The seal, thus again charmed, kept quiet, and Miner would once more take to his oars, thus endeavouring gradually to decrease the distance between them. 80 it occuned for several times, and evidently !Miner had great ho[)e of securing a good prize, but suddenly, and when the hunter was almost as near as he desired to be, the seal broke away from the "soothing voice of the charmer," raised its head, made a plunge, and, before ]Mincr could fire, disappeared. Then came upon our ears, as we looked and listened, the loud, peculiar ejaculation of disappointment, E-e-c-uk! and no wonder, for the poor hunter lost by it about half a ton of fresh provisions. I, too, owing to the interest I felt, was also nigh having a loss, \\hich, though not so important as his, was one which I did not then wish to experience. A meridional observation on the ice with my pocket sextant was secured only just in time to save it. I continued my walk, and ascended a mountain close by, picking up fossU stones on its summit, and enjoying the viev/ around me. Soon I was joined by the Innuits Koker- jabin (Kudlago's widow) and Neitch-ee-yong, both of whom were born on the shores of the great bay before us. Koker- jabin pointed out to me the place of her nativity, on the o])posite side of the bay, called by her Kur-mo-wong, an inlet which makes its way up into the interior of Kingaite (Meta Incognita). She said that from a high point at the termination of that inlet she had often seen the oomicns of kodlmicis (ships of the white men) pass up, and then, at a later time, down the waters which were on the other side of Kingaite. This I,' i ill THE " ICK-FOOT." ^83 if Kiiigaite. This mado Kingaite to l>o merely a narrow tongue of land, the extreme of wliich, as Kokorjabin stated it to be, I cuiild see bearing from me by azinuitli compass 102'', or true bearing S. 16° W. Karmowong bore S. 51° W. true. I took sineral other observations and measurements the next and following days, for the purpose of mapping the locality and accurately placing upon record all that I might discover bearing upon Frobisher's expedition. My sleeping acconnnodations at niglit were with the natives in their igloo, and I partook of their food, eating even as they themselves did, and, I might add, thoroughly enjoying it. Thus two days passed away, and on the third, which was April ii5th, I again started for an extension of my trip. It was about noon when I left, accompanied by Sterry, Kokerjabin, and her son " Captain." This youth of twelve years would insist upon taking with him a toy sledge, to which " rink," a little dog of a few months old, was harnessed, and, as he made it a point to have the sledge, I was obliged to let it be taken with us. Our first five miles was circuitous, though on a general course (triie) of about W.N.W. From the breaking up and consetj^uent absence of the sea-ice, which had occurred two days before my arrival, we were obliged to follow the shore- ice, walking on what Dr. Kane called the " ice-foot." Thus we were one moment this Avay, the next that, and sometimes walking on shore. This made it very difficult to get on, especially as the tide a{ that time rose and fell full thirty feet ; and, besides, the frequent change from ice to laud was no easy work. When wo had gone about four miles, an old Tnuuit man was seen with his gun quietly seated on the rocks overlooking the bay and watching for seals. A few words of greeting were exchanged, and I then looked around the place. I noticed that here and there was quite a level spot of ground for these regions ; and what more particularly attracted my attention was a complete natural breakwater of stones, evidently thrown up by the heavy seas. The side next the ]:( ' i! M r 111 \ '1 J^' if »»f ii: ' ■\f I 234 1,IFF WITH THE KS(,inM MX soil was sloiiinj,' iit un iiiiylc mI' 4u , aiul tliat liiciiim tlu' tlal oi" land, wliicli it pnttocled, about 50'\ The stones were of ovcry variety of shape, tlinuj>li not nnicli worn, and wei^liiiij;' from one to twenty-live |ioiinds. On tliis Hat portion of land I perceived many sl^ns of its having been the frequent resort of Imuiits during the sununer months — circles of stones for keei)ing down the skins which form their tents ; bones of walrus and reindeer were alsd numerous. Here, too, I saw, to my surjirise, ship's blocks, iron hoops two and u half inches wide, part of a cofree-pol, preserved meat canisters, an oaken bucket in good order, and several pieces of wood, all, as I afterward conj'ecturi'd, formerly belduging to the "Traveller," an English whaling vessel, lost three years previous near "JVar Sound," about thirty miles nearer the sea. It was at this place we lunched, and had the i)leasiire ol' finding abundance of water on the rocks to (piench our thirst. Here, on a point of hind called by the innuits Evictoon, was a native monument such as they usually erect on prominent places. As we \\ere about to resume our march, two seals wer(^ discovered in the sun near some cracked ice. Immediately the old man starteil off to try his rusty gun upon them, at first stumbling hurriedly over sonii' broken ice that intervened, and then proceeding very cautiousl}'. When within I'orty rods he lay down upon his front, and kneed, foot(!d, ,ind bellied himself Jilong, not unlike the movements of the seals he was after. But, as in jNIiner's case, a moment afterward his prey, taking the alarm, rose up, and with a plunge instantly disappeai'ed. The -old man jumped u]), crying aloud E-c-c-'tik ! and walked on. As we travelled forward the mountains of Iviiigaite loomed up in magnificent grandeur, and, on looking at them, some- thing struck mc as it had done when first viewing the ])laco in August, ISGO, th.it more than mere land existed there, ft seemed as if a huge ice ridg(! ran along parallel Midi I he coast, uniting mftuntain with mountain and ])eak with ]ieak, NIMIT Tlt.VVi;i-LIN(i ON TlIK K'K. 285 Si'oiiig iiow iiil(>nt T was u]ton this, Kdkoijiiliin rcmlily iinswi'ioil my iiit|uiry ns to wliiit it rciiliy wiis. Jii ifply, slic Siiid "it was .w//ve.stigate the subject; hut, on the night in question, between seven and eight o'clock, ihc tulv niiiif jiimriiii/ info tin' I'lflno, threatening destruction to all w ithiii it. The full moon, by CIreenwich time, was, April li-Uh, lOh. 2;hn. and, conso(|uently, the highest rise of the tide would lii-re l)e some fc^rty hours after. I had watched for it during some time, and finally retired to my tuktoo I'ur.s, little expecting it would show itself to me by my bedside in the way it did ; but such a proof was enough. Trom it I ascertained that the rise of tide at full and chang(! was thirty ieet. Fortunately, the tidal lluw and abrupt inun- dation produced no serious damage, though it gave work to the females of the igloo, who hurriedly secured the fur dresses and other valuables from the salt water. It was strange to me to see them cleaning or currying the seal-skins. The mouth of the female currier served as a de- posit for all the scrapings, and the tongue was kept in constant ve(£uisition to keep free the scraper, a dish being by to receive the contents of the mouth when full. The scrapings oi !,oard, liand.s, &c. all went first to the mouth, then to the dish, and thence to the dogs ! The storm continued during the following day, and 1 re- mained where I was, studying more and more the habit,s oi' this strange peo] lie, and endeavouring to give .s(mie elementary in.struction to the children. I, '11 IK si; A I, KKAST. 280 I. uii Tlmrstlrty, .) t'urioUHly tlmt ; but they VI!- e tiiK' si'iil- -"^ ,)V till) first tiiiu- cliilil th<- •''•'"''■^ itlicv miwolcouie is often pursucil vlctlgo I desirotl lhI with tlu! tidt'H to iuvestigatt' tlu- twci'U seven uiul illloo, tliveiitt'niii,L? )n, by Civeenwitli jonsctiueiitly, the forty hours after. I tinally retired to ow itself to me by proof was enou'j^h. at full aiul chanpi! iuul abrui)t inun- 1 it ^ave work to red the fnv dresses njr or currying the ier served as a de- as kept in constant being by to receive went first to the dogs ! ing day, and I ro- luore the habits of vo scnnc elementary Our bri'iikfast iiiid dinner were lK)tli excellent ; for the for- mer, raw li tzen widiii ,. of wliieli I liad u itiece for my share of about tivf jiiiurids, and at the latter, seal. The portion of tliis allotted to me mid Sterry was tlu' liead. Wo complied with the limuit custom. Sterry took a mouthful, then juissed it to me, ami when I had done the .same it was returned to him, and so on. ( )f course fii;iir< were all in all. No knive.s and forks are found among the Innuita ; iiiiger.s and teeth are more than their eqtiivalent. AVlieii the meat, skin, and hair were all desjiatehed — even the eyes, e.\cei»t the balls, Avhieli were given to the youngest child of Sampson — we " tajtped " the brain. I was surprised at the amount of a .seal'.s brains, and equally so at the deli- eiousncss of them ! The skull was almost as thin as ]iaper. Shoot a seal in the head and it dies. Shoot a walrus in the head, and the danuige is to tin' hdl, which immediately flattens, without eifecting any injury whatever to the walrus. Later in the day I attended another feast in the iyloo of Kookin, who had invited his old mother, Slicl-lit-of-2)i>it/, and two other venerable dames, and I must say tliat if my friends at home could then have .seen how like an Tnnuit 1 ate, they would have Idushed for me. First came a portion of seal's liver, raw and warm from its late existence in full life. This, with a slice of ooksook (blub- ber), was handed to each, and I nuule away with mine as ([uick as any of the old adepts. Then came ribs inclosed in tender meat, drii>])ing with blood. How ambrosial to my l)alate ! La.stly came — what? Entnilh, which the old lady drew through her fingers yards in length. This was served to every one but me in i)ieces of two to three feet long, i saw at once that it was su|>[)osed I woulil not like to eat this dvUcavy; but, having i)artaken of it before, 1 sigiiitied my wish to do so now ; for, be it remembered, thire is no jxtrt of a sad hut is 1/00(1. I drew the ribbon-like food through my teeth Innuit fashion ; finished it, 5nd then asked fiir more This im- mensely ]>lease(l the old dames. They were in ecstasies. It seemed as if they thought ua' the best of the group. They Vol,. I. i: it '.(( ' 1 ' I. ^ 1 ': tl ! 'i "'1} C 1 .1 ':i '! »; it i' 'i {i 290 LIFE WITH TlIK KSQUIMAUX. laugliod — tlioy bestowcil upon iiie iill the most pleasant opi- tliets their Kanguajio woiihl permit, I was one of them— one of the honoured few ! Soon as this round of feasting was ended, one of the old lady Innuits drew my attention to her alUictions. She had a dreadful pain in her side and hack, and liad been badly I roubled for weeks. Before 1 had time for thought, she chew ulf her long-tailed coat over her head, and sat there befuic me nude as Nature made her. The laughing face and the joyi'ul, ringing voice of the old lady were now exchanged fur expressions indicative of suffering and the need of sympathy. The \\holc party present were now absorbed in the subject before me. 1 put on as long and dignified a face as I coidd iu this trijiiuj scene, and, as much was evidently expected from me, I was determined no disappointment should follow. Therefore I proceeded to manipulate the parts affected, or, rather ^^/c/iWf? my fingers in the rich loam — real estate — that cover d the ailing places. The result was that I gave notice that .she shoidd live on, eating as much fresh seal and >\alrus as she wanted, drinking water several times a day, and applying the same amount at the end of every ten days that she had drank in that time to the outnUlc of her body by the process of scruljbing, which I there and then practically explained to her and the others. 1 told her, moreover, that as the suk-e-neir (sun) was day l)y day getting higher and liighci', sihe must keep herself warm and dry, and then, in my opinion, she woidd soon be quite relieved. So caressingly did I finger the old lady's side during the delivery of my impromptu advice, that she declared 1 was the best angeko she had known, and positively she felt nuicli better alieady, I'lacing on her coat, she then jumped up and ran away to her om'u igloo, as lively as a cricket. During the time I was sto])ping in Sampson's igloo I made every inquiry possible about the tradition concerning ships entering the bay a long time ago ; but I was unable, from my then slender knowledge of their language, to get intelligible answers. TJierefore I had still io remain patient about it. , m iiM'i iM \ y mii*mmm CURIOUS MOUNTAIN MAUK. 291 pleasant o\)i- of tliciii— uuc ne of the oltl )iis. Slio had 1(1 been badly i.dit, she drew it there hefun' ; faee and th*^ exchanged Ibv \ of sympathy, in the subject 2e as I conld in expected fiuui should follow, rts affected, or, — real estate — ,'as that I gave li fresh seal a'.ul il times a day, every ten days of her body by then practically .loreover, that as ■her and higher, 11, in my opinion, side during the Glared 1 was the r she felt much jumped up and et. n's igloo I made oncerning ship.s unable, from my ) get intelligible lent about it. Tlic following day, Saturday, April 27tli, we commenced our return ; but it was cold and stormy, and, as I had left some of my fur dress at Annawa's, I sought to borrow reindeer trousers, mits, and socks there. These I readily obtained ; but the first-mentioned article being too small for my dimen- sions, one of the Innuit women slit them down with lier oodloo till they did tit, after a fashion. But, on attempting to move, I was as if in a vice. I coidd not walk, I could not run, nor coiild I seat myself ; I could only waddle and tumble down ! On the ice in front of the igloos I tried to get on, but you, my reader, should have been there to have seen and enjoyed the sight I presented, and to have heard the ringing, side-splitting laughter of this generous-hearted and kind baud of Innuits at the grotesque figure I cut in old Seko's skin-tight breeches. A sledge drawn by dogs had been loaned to us, and upon this I threw myself ; but, long after our departure, on my looking back, I could see the merry lot still watching, and apparently enjoying the fun I liad created. Our sledge Avent fast, the dogs being good ones, with an ex- cellent Innuit driver, Ning-u-ar-ping, the son of Sampson and Kokerjabin. On the smooth clear ice, which extended from Sampson's village to where we had first halted on our way up, our progress was very rapid. As we passed the island wb^i-e we had spent the night before meeting the liniuits, I saw our igloo still standing. A little farther on, I observed to the north a peculiar mark — the work of Nature — by the west side of the entrance to NeA\'ton's Fiord, standing out boldly upon one of the mountains. On inquiry, I found it was considered by the natives as a remarkable spot, known to them from time immemorial. It was called Inij-cc. Whoever would know what this means, let him confitlentially ask an Esqui- maux man. After some miles' travel we came to a depot of walrus llesh, made by Sampson's people on a previous occasion ; and here, after loading from it, the sledge left us on its return. Sterry and I, Kokerjabin and Captain, then walked on, and, alter a tedious journey of about fifty miles — though direct only U 2 ) li ; i'Kl I V(V> MIK WITH Till': KSQUIMAITX. .some twenty ffctm the village — we arrived at Twcrpiihjaa at !> P.M. so tliorouglily iatigu"d as to be right glad of the friendly beds immediately offered ns. Ne.xt morning 1 arose much refreshed, and took a walk on the neighbouring hill. 'J'he ice had before parted and left the bay almost fn-e, but 1 was greatly astoni.shed at the innnense number of ducks I saw swimming about. For miles and miles around the waters were literally covered and black with them, ]iiaking such a thitiu/criiif/, indescribable medley of sounds as ([uite startled me. Talk about the "absence of life" in these r(>gions of ice and snow ! AVhy, before my eyes were count- less numbers of animated creatures, from the winged fowl of the sea to the seal and walrus I What do all these creatures live upon ? Why ai'O they here? The waters must be alive with oflio' innumerable crea- tures ! Soon "great whales" will be here, and for what ? Is there food for f/icm here too ? At !l A..M. I left Twerpukjua, and directed my way to Anna- wa's, at the island of Oopungnewing, where ] arrived in due course, and was kindly welcomed as usual. Noodleyong was busy sewing skins together for making the summer tupic or tent, and Annawa, with other men, were out sealing. In tin; afternoon these; latter returned, and we had the cu.stomary feast in tlii; o])en air. Jt was Sunday, and 1 cnuid not helj-) thoughtfully looking upDii the scene before me. Tlicre was the snow village of pure white igloos, with their irad-h'/ii/s and fo()/,'-so(i>< embellished by trophies of the walrus hunts. A score of laughing, hapj)y, untutored, uncivilized, and "unchristiauized" sons and daugh- ters of the Xorth were aroinid or near me. There was a groujt on my right commencing the feast; three women, that had been out gathering h/j) (seaweed) as an article of food, coming up from the beach; Annawa and his sealing company draw- ing u]) their kias on the floe-ice seaward; ojien water near by covered with ducks : ]>liud (leorge standing in fnmt of ]}ob's igloo, facing and welcoming the sun's warm rays ; a nundier of boys drawing another raptured soal across tin' ^u'crinikjm at D glad of the ook a walk on h1 and left tlio t the immense liles and milc^* K'k with theiii, y of Homuls as t'life" ill these ■es were connt- ffinged fowl of Why are they lumerahle crea- t for Avliat ? Is y way to Anna- arrived in due ^oodleyong was immer tiipic or oaling. In tlx; the customary ^■htfully looking village of pure embellished by inghing, hap])y, ^ons and daugh- u've was a grou]i omen, that had » of food, coming company draw- >]ion water near iling in front of warm rays ; a seal across tlu' V lii ■v,« '(!! i Ji ?! li RETURN TO THE SHI?. 205 rugged ice lining tlic shore; and one young urchin with a brace of ducks newly shot. In the narrow distance were some icebergs and floating masses of ice, and behind, as well as far off, the bold mountains, which gave a grandeur to the view. The next morning, April 29th, accompanied by Esheeloo and his wife Oonga, I started on foot for the ship in Rescue Harbour, a distance of about twenty miles. Tart of the way was over broken ice, and this made tlic journey both tedious and difficult. At noon we were at the foot of Bayard Taylor Pass leading to Field Bay, and after a lunch we walked on over the land, stopping a moment at tlio half-way station for a drink of delicious water, and arrived on the other side at 4 P. M. Field Bay had firm ice upon it, and over this we travelled as rapidly as we could, finally reaching the ship at 8 p.m. having been just twelve hours on the way. " '.'1 ooD-Loi>, OK woman's knifk, Tlie illustration ono-thini the size of the uriginal. In the hands of an Esqi\iniaux woman, this simple instrument, made of luint ami irnii (the arc simply edgeil with iron), is uiiuivalcnt to the knifo, hatehot, sprnpor, and sliears of civilization. I I il i m itr CHAITEH XVI. Siiow-liliiidiiffiii — .youth of Ma/i—Ship released from //(■/■ Ice-fellers— A spiritfiif Sceiie — Ulcdtje-dogs at full Speed— Terrific Encounter with a Bear — A Toss in the Air — A powerful Innnit — The aged Woman, Ookijomj Ninon— Tookoolito Interpreter — Important Information — Traditions relatimj to White Men very many Years ago — Ships itith many People had arrived —Two Innuit Women taken away — Five Innuils killed by While Men — Five White Men among the Innuits— Written History confirmed by Oral Tradition — Barrow's History of A rctic Discovery— Relics of the White Men to be found— Wood, Coal, ^ 'ck, Iron — Innuits viusl possess the Truth concerning Franklin's Expedition— The Dreaded Land — Preparations for Summer Work — Ice— Pools of Water formed — Arrive on Land — Extetuiive View— A beautiful Orassy Plain — Comparison with Greenland — Lands behind the Coast, at this ])art, very fertile. i'r Ml Directly after my arrival on board, ou April 29th, 1861, I had a good wash, which I stood much in need of. I then found that snow-blindness had come upon me. During the journey I had felt some difficulty in sighting the way, but did not experience any pain. Now, however, my face bnrned as if on fire, and my eyes were intolerably painful. My cheeks were much the colou* of tanned hide, and all about my features gave unmistakable evidence of exposure to severe weather. That night I again enjoyed the luxury of taking off my skin dress, which I had not been able to do for the previous eight days. Fut my snow-blindness, which is attended with most excruciaang pain, allowed me little rest, and the next morning found ma so bad that 1 could hardly do anything. It was now the last day of April, 1861, and many symptoms of a change from winter to sunnuer (the only real changes during the year in arctic climes) were observable. True, a heavy snowstorm was prevailing, but the weather was much milder than it had been, and the ice was beginning toy ield. In the morning the ship was released from her ice-fetters, and 5 . SI'lIMTKh SCKNi;, i".i7 .fetters— A spiritMt a Dear— A Toss in SHiwo—Tookoolito to White Men very Two Innuit Women kite Men among the Barrow's History of Wood, Coal, . 'ck. Mill's Expedition— Jcc—Pools of Water al Grassy Plain— , at this part, very 'M\ of May, wliicli was a beautiful and warm day, Kbierhing and Tookoolito arrived, with all their effects, in- tending to stfiy with me until I was ready, as previously arranged, to leave for King William's Land. They were well, and had got through tlie interval since 1 had last seen them in the usual precarious manner, sometimes with, sometimes without success in sealing, so alternately with or without food. The following morning we had another snow-stonn, which continued with slight intermissions for several days. On the 6th of May, Captain B , -wishing the dogs to be well fed previous to being employed in transporting the whale-boats, stores, &c. over to the whaling depot at Cape True, asked several of the Innuits to take them over to Oopungnewing, where there was plenty of walrus skin and meat ; bxit one and all refuseil. They said " the weather was too bad;" whereupon I volunteered to go with any Innuit that wordd accompany me ; but, finally, the gale having abated, Captain B himself determined to go, taking with him two of the Esquimaux, who at last consented to accom- pany him. There were twenty-five dogs, and tliese we had harnessed to a sledge by the Innuits Charley and Jim Crow, who were ready to start. Captain V> went ahead, and I, following with the sledge, soon overtook him, but not until I had seen a good specimen of dog-driving. At the beginning it was slow work to get the dogs under way, but, once on the start, away they Avent, pell-mell to- gether, and swiftly, over the lair white snow. It was annising to see my Greenland dogs, with the others, weaving and knit- ting, braiding and banding their traces into knots and webs that apparently would defy human devices to unravel. One dog would leap over the backs of a dozen others ; another dog, receiving the snap of the thirty-feet lash in tlu! driver's hands. ■ 2!)8 LIFK WITH THE KSQUIMAUX. a fi,^M m I' thinking it the work of his nearest nciglibour, would seize him. as if to repay it hy a ten-fohl severer snap ; then the rest woukl Join in the fray, till all became involved in a regular dog-fight. It was a picture to see these twenty-five dogs flying almost with the speed of wind over the frozen surface of the deep snow. But, after joining the captain and resign- ing to him my place, it was not quite so pleasant for me to retxirn. I had but light garments on, and the weather was still severe. However, the distance was not far, and I reached the ship without much difficulty. Captain B , to my astonishment, returned on the fol- lowing day at about 10 i.si. He had duly arrived at Oopung- newing ; was hospitably received in Bob's igloo for the night ; and, having supplied himself with a load of walrus meat — indeed, he might have had half a dozen loads, so abundant was the supply at that time — and preferring to return rather than stay where the igloos were about tumbling down, owing to the moist weather, he came back in the midst of the con- tinuous storm. The labour of getting over the Bayard Taylor Pass was very severe to him, especially at the steep ascent on the other side. He could on'" make two or three steps before he was obliged to rest, each step carrying him thigh deep into the soft snow. With the captain came " Bol) " and his wife " Polly ; " but this time Bob came in n prqfcssionnl capacity. He was a doctor, or, rather, an angeko, and now came to visit the sick mother of Shnrkcj/. The following day I chanced to witness him engaged at the work. I was walking among the ruined igloos, which, having fallen down, had been nearly all replaced by skin tents, wlieii I heard the peculiar sound of ankootinfi close by. It was near the tupic of Ar-tung-unff, mother of Sharkey ; but I did not enter, for generally no one but the family is allowed to bo present on such occasions ; and, though one cannot help pitying the superstitious feeling that directs them to this, yol why should any of us make light of it? They are earnest in the matter, and only follow th(i customs of their fathers ff)r 7, f TICUKTFIC ENCOUNTER WITH A UEAli. i'ilil iild seize him, :hcn tho vest \ in a regular nty-five dogs trozou surface in and resign- ant for me to ;atlier was still L I reached the ed on the fol- ded at Oopung- » for the night ; wah'us meat — Is, so abundant return rather ig down, owing idst of the con- ! Bayard Taylor steep ascent on reo steps before thigh deep into B" Polly;" but iity. He was a to visit the sick n engaged at the s, which, having skin tents, when by. It was neav Y ; but I did nut is allowed to 1)o inc cannot help them to this, yol ley are earnest in their fathers for generations before them. Possibly, liowever, it may yet bo tlie honour of our country, thro\igh some noble-hearted Chris- tian philanthropist, to bring them to a knowledge of the one true God. The Innuit Pob was a man that every one of us highly esteemed. I have before alluded to him in warm terms, and I will now mention a circumstance which belonged to the romantic incidents of his life. In the winter of 1854-5, he and a companion, with some dogs, attacked a large polar bear. His companion's name was Se-nih-too — " Moose," as called by the whalers. He afterward, in 1858, died at Allen's Island, leaving a widow — the Puto whom I have frequently named. Moose fired at the bear, when it rushed toward them. Bob stood his ground until he too had fired, and then inimediately turned and ran ; but the next moment the boar was upon him, and, seizing his left shoulder in its jaws, threw him high over its head, as if he had been a mere bag of feathers ! Bob fell about four fathoms off, and was getting up, when the bear again laid hold of him, this time by the leg, and gave him another toss. The dogs, however, noTv managed to keep the animal at bay ; and Moose coming to Bob's aid, they bravely renewed the attack, until at length these courageous Innuits succeeded in conquering the brute. Unfortunately, they lost him after all their trouble, for the ice broke, and the tide swept their prize away. I saw the scars of the wouu(1s inflicted by this monster, Bob taking oft" his reindeer dreso in the main cabin to gratify me. Captain B said that the laceration was temble, for he had seen it a few days after the occurrence, and adminis- tered such relief as was in his power. Bob was undoubtedly a powerful man, muscular, full-breasted, of great nen^e, and firm as iron. When he stripped I had a good opportunity to see this, and he allowed me to take the measurement of his body.'^ On the 10th of May Ebiorbing'fi grandmother, the aged Ookijoxy Ninoo, arrived with him from Cornelius Grinnc^ll ) I \ \ :Vm) MTK WITH TllM I'.si.imi VIA'. I,!' M'.? fi J|' if Hi s i;., f ' Miiy, wliori^ Iiu liiiil liri'ii to Icti'li luT to liis liumo. I was imxions tor a coiivcrsatinii with licr, as she could ^'ive nii! much inforuiation, tVoui uativo tnulitious aud yxTsoual observation, iil)out the Krohishor expeditions ol' ITiTli-S ; l)ut it was not until til..' next day that I liad the opportunity. Next inorninL!; [ went on shore at Cooper's Island, a small island near the (Jmri/r Hi'iir// in l.'escue llarliour, where Ehier- bing, Tookoolito, and Ooldjoxy Ninoo lived in tuples. Our conversation conimeneed by my leadinjj the way, throufjli Ebiorbing, his wife actin;^' as interpreter, which, aided by my own increasinj^ knowled^'j oi' the lanjiuaj^i', enabled me to quite \inderstand the (dil lady's narrative. Kbierbin;^' said that " he Wi-U recollected, when a boy, seeinjf, on an island near Oopunonewin<,', oiiff (somcthintf m/, which 1 inferred, from his subsequent explanation, to mean hrich) and coat. At that time he knew not what tliose tlungs were, but when he visited KuLthuid in 185'), lie there saw bricks, ami understood the :r nse for the first time. Coal he had seen on board an Kn^li jii wliuler previous to that, but not until years after his noticing tiiese things on the island. He said he used to jilav M'ith these bricks, piling tlu^m up in rows and in various forms, as children often do, and also marked stones with them, and was delighted to see the ivA strokes. lie also remendjered Innuit Momen using the bricks, whenever they could be obtained, for polishing the brass ornaments worn on the head. Likewise he could well remendjer how some of his aged people told him that many — a great many years ago, ships came into the IJay 7'in-nit-Jnk-j)iiir/-oo-sc-oii(/ '' (Krobisher Bay). This was Ebierbing's statement. I now proceed to that of his grandmother. But, before doing this, let mo. describe the scene as it was at the time of my receiving the following im])ortant connnunication from her. Her tupic was very small — only large enough to hold her- self comfortably in a sitting or reclining posture — but 1 managed to squeeze in beside her, seating mytelf at her right side. Tookoolito was (.vfsidc by the entrance, facing the old huly and myself. it"': .JHil r ■ ' \\ TliADITIuNS 111' rilK INNCri'S. :;(il liitinc. 1 wns [ {^ivc nu'. much lal observation, hut it wa« not Island, a small ir, N\ ht'if EUii'i- in tin>ii's. Our . way, thvouj^li .•h, aitU'cl l>y my rnabliHl mo lo en a boy, seexw^, ling y('(K which 1 inoan hrickfi) and things were, bnt saw bricks, and il la had seen on it not xrntil years nd. He said he ip in rows and in ^o marked stones strokes. He also :s, whenever they naments worn on • how some of liis many years ago, ■-OIUJ '' (Frobisher now proceed to ing this, let me my receiving the ough to hohl her- ig posture — bnt 1 nvf-i'lf at her right lee, facing the old The ]iositiiin nf Ookijoxy iS'lnoo was iisi'iiliy a ri'diiiing one, slio resting lier elbows on the pilln\v-i»laee of her bed, and iier chin upon her hands. I'.y her side was her little kood-lin (lamp), and in front of tiiat was a small board, on which was a handful of baked beans given to her by some one from Mio ship, and also a few broken itieces of sea-bread which Tookoo- lito had saved for her. There was, besides, abnndance of walrus blul»ber and skin for her (o eat M'hen hunrnv. OI.I) nOKMOXY NIN'on NARtlATINCi TIIF. TliAlHTKlNS OF lIKll rKOIMR. During the time I was in her tupic and listening lo her words, a favourite grandchild of hers, E-ter-loong, was just outside, frequently crying for fond. The old lady gave the child a part of the beans and biscuit; but his noise was a great interruption. The weather was verv cold— bitterly ,sn ; and 1 often m t 302 LIFE WITH Till'; KHgL'IMAl'X. rcfiuostcil T'xikoolilo to take my pliico insiilo, but hIio ]>rc- k'VivxX my ii.'tiiiiun<,' " llio si'iit of honour." The foUowiujj; is tlio .substance of her stntoments to me respecting the objects of my intpiiry. riacing before her the sketch-chart formerly drawn by Koo- jesse, anil showing her Cornelius CirinncU IJay, Singeyer, Field 15ay, tracing along down through I5ear Sound to Cape True, thence to Oojjungnewing, I asked her if she recognised those jxirticular parts. Her reply was that she Md ; and immo- diiitely asked, " What is the name of the island where Kuo- chooarcha (Sampson) was?" meaning the island where mysell", with Sterry and Kokerjabin, visited Sampson on the previous April 27th. I replied, " Ak-lcoo-nHc-shiit-too-piny." " That," said she, " is where I have spent much of my life — many of my best days. lUit the place where the kodlunas (white people) of the ships landed is called Nioiintdik, an island near Oopungnewing." She then proceeded to say that upon Niountelik she had seen bricks, and coal, and pieces of timber of various sizes. She had also b"\rd from old lunuits that, many years before, ships had landed there with a great number of people. She remembereii, when a little girl, hearing Innuits tell about these people having killed several Innuits ; also that farther down, or on Kingaite side, as the old lady spoke it, they took away two Innuit women, who never came back again. I asked her if she know how many ships had come there? Ker reply was, They came every year ; first two, then three, then am-a-, u-ad-lo oo-moo-arch-chii-a (many — a great many ships). " 1 ive Innuits were also killed by the kodlunas " (white people). Not feeling quite certain of the meaning of her answer, I repeated the question, IIow many ships canu; here ? Tookoolito, on receiving the answer, gave it to me in this way : " She said ' they came every year,' " and then ceased from repeating more of the old woman's words. This puzzled :ne ; I knew not what to make of it. I began to think that perhaps whaling ships had annually visited the gieat bay. 13ut, after a few moments, 1 found Tookoolito luul ii li - TUADITlONrt (»F TIIK INNUITH. nua but rthe l>i'0- IK'lltS to UU' •awn hy Koo- in^'oyev, Field ;() Cape Truo, Dgnist'il those ; nml iiumo- lI where Kvo- whcre inysell", I the previous uch of my life > the kodluuas Nioantdih, an itelilc she had :' various sizes. y years before, f people. She Liits tell about Iso that farther ce it, they took : again. ad come there ? vo, then three, —a great many the kodlunas" the meaning of any ships canu; ;ave it to me in ar,'" and then I's words. This it. I began to ally visited the Tookoolito had ceuHod speaking nicruly to con.siilor the truo interpretation of what the old lady had aaid into my veniaeultir. She continued Ity saying, " First two, then two or tluve, then many — very nmny vessels." This was clear ; and 1 iuimedisitely took uj) the only hook I then had with me hearing upon the subject, "Barrow's Chronological Ilistoiy of Arctic Discovery," and, turning to I lie account of I'robisher's voyages, I read wliut had been given lo the world by means of writing and printing, and comi)ared it with wliat was uow communiculed to mo by means of oral tradition. Written history tells me that Fro- l)isher made three voyages in the arctic regions as follows : — Frst voyage in 1570, with two* vessels. Second voyage in 1577, three vessels. Third voyage in 1578, fifteen vessels. Traditionarji history inibnns me that a great many, many years ago the vessels of vhite men visited the bay (Frubishcr's) three successive years : — First, in two vessels. Second, in three vessels. Third, in many vessels. |jii< this is not all that traditionary history gave me on that day. Written history states that Frobislier losty^Vf of his men ou his first voyage when conveying a native on shore. Oral history tohl me that five white men were captured by Innuit people at the time of the appearance of the ships a great many years ago ; that these men wintered on shore (whether one, two, three, or more winters, could not say) ; that they lived among the Innuits ; that they afterward built an oomien (large boat), and put a mast into her, and had sails ; that early in the season, before much water appeared, they endeavoured to depart ; that, in the effort, some froze their hands ; but that iinally they succeeded in getting into open Avater, and away the/ went, which was the last seen or heard of them. This beat, as near as I could make out at the time, was built on * See Aiipciulix, No. S, m 'M)4 LIFE WITH TMK ESyClMAVX. : nl 1','h/' ! li: the isluiul tliat Frol)i,slKji' and liis c()iii])aiiy landetl upon, viz. Niouiih'lik. I have here put down a part only ol'wliat I recorded in my journal at the time, and, conseqnently, much of it will be found to have been the result of some slight mistake in what T then nnderstood ; but, cou]>led M'ith the previous statements of Koojesse, and the information which I afterward obtained, it will be seen that the main facts .about Frobisher's Expedition are well supported by evidence. The old lady further informed me that frequently, in her lifetime, she had seen wood, chips, coal, and bricks, and lanje pieces of Tcrij /tear// sfcme, on the island oi XiouHfeHk. This again puzzled me. What could "very lie.avy stone" mean ? I asked her " what kind of stone it was," and to this she replied, " It was hlack, and very heavy. No Innuits had ever seen such kind of stones before." This at once led me to conclude that the heavy stones were iron / and still more so when Tookoolito obsened, " 1 think, from what the old lady says, these stones were very heavy, a ,smttll one being as much as an Innuit could lift. I think, ]ierhaps," added she, " they were iron." " And so do I. By- and-by, I will see to it," was my rejdy. The information thus obtained seemed so clearly to bear upon Frobisher's Expedition that I determined, as soon as I could, to visit Xionnfclik, and ascertain all about the matter. 1 thought to myself, if such facts concerning an expeditioir which had been made nearly three hundred years ago can be l)reserved by the natives, anur in walking, basking in the 3 rest and dine. ce of salt pork, T of fresh water a good repast, and we had to h snow, which lalf-dozen steps 10 pleasant cha- injurious to my lid I experience became much t, oftener waist- ce snow would xg right for our e sinking to our ly I would be would go down, jrust would give s if it took three 1 rocky hill, and, 1 I have named after ascending it, an extensive view was before me. On the west of us I could see a lakelet, long and narrow, that extended in n northerly direction to the base of Alden Mountain. This lakelet, on my way back, proved to be influenced in its waters by the sea for two or three days at the periods of high tides — full and change. It was now 8 P.M. We were both much fatigued, and yet it would not do to remain. Not a blanket had we, nor any article that would serve to keep warmth in us during the night, which, however, was now daylight all through. Tlie heavens were covered with portentous clouds, and many circumstances led me to conclude it most advisable to return ; but I could hardly determine in what direction it would be best to go. There were the plains, but they were covered deeply with the treacherous snow. As I reflected, a passage in the " Good Book " came to my mind : " Be angry, and p a not ; " but, whether I sinned or not, God only is my judge. This, how- ever, I must confess : that as I walked on that treacherous snow-crust, every now and then going down, dmon, doivn, my temper at length would fly up, up, up, making the scale-beam keep dancing for full three hours, untU some fair walking gave ease to my weary limbs and quiet to my ruftied soul. On a careful survey of the routes we could follow, I finally decided upon going to a low ridge which was farther west of us and x\ee from snow. That ridge extended in a line running to the S.S.E. and lay in about the direction I wanted to go. To reach it we had to traverse along an abrupt sand-bank bordering the lakelet already mentioned. We then came to a beautiful grassy plain quite destitute of snow, and over which it was a perfect luxury to travel. All my weariness and pain were quite forgotten in walking across this carpet of Nature. It was surrounded by rugged, sombre, rocky mountains, and consequently appeared to me like an onsis in the grea desert. For nearly one year I had sighted nothing but rocks, rocks, rocks, here, there, and everywhere, piled into mountains of such varied and horrible shapes that they seemed as if created to strike terror into the heart of man ; and now to fall thus 310 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. 'I 'm a ■? Ml unexpectedly upon a plain covered with crass, yielding so friendly and "down "-like to my aching feet, particularly under the circumstances described, was enough for me to express my great joy and admiration. It is said that the name Greenland was given to that land by the Norwegians and Icelanders because it looked greener than Iceland. I could, therefore, on my trip across that grassy plain, fully appreciate their feelings on beholding a greener land than their own. Yet many a one going directly from the United States and visiting Greenland would from the bottom of his soul exclaim, " I'his Greenland ! Then, indeed, have I come into a Para- dise, but into that of which Milton speaks : — " ' . . . oV. the back side of the world far ofl", Into a lin)l)o lHr>:;i' and broad, since called The Paradise of Fools.' " With reference to the plain I crossed over, Tookoolito after- ward informed me that in 13G0 a company of Innuits, herself and Ebierbing of the numb3i', spent three weeks in passing over the land amid the mountains, and on other plains of great extent westward of Cornelius Grinnell Bay. Their trip was made for a reindeer hunt. On their way, and running north- west from the plain near what I have called Alden Mountain, was another plain, extending in every direction as far as the eye could reach. This convinced me that in general arctic navigators know but little about the interior of the northern country. liarely anything but the coasts are seen and ex- plored. On the trip I am now referring to I saw more level ground than since I left the United States. Nothing in Greenland that I saw could compare with it. Tookoolito also informed me that reindeer visit those plains in great numbeis. On their excursion they killed as many as they wanted ; and so numerous were the deer that they might be compared to flocks of sheep. Much of the meat they had obtained during the hunt M'as left behind. The fmvns were chased down by the Innuits and caught ; as she said, " their ,, yielding so , particularly ;h for me to I to that land ooked greener p across that I heholding a going directly d would from le ivito a Para- oft", ed okoolito after- nnuits, herself iks in passing plains of great Their trip was running north- iden Mountain, I as far as the general arctic if the iiortliern ! seen and ex- law more level 1. Nothing in sit those plains led as many as that they might 1 meat they had rhe fawns were he said, " their NUMEROUS REINDEEU. 311 fei.'t being dry, they could nut run well. When the feet of tuktoo are wet, they can go much faster over the mountain rocks." From infonnation I afterward obtained, the plains here spoken of appeared i<< be well known to our friendly Innuits as a breeding-place for the deer ; and the wlude country be- tween Frobisher Bay and Niountelik (a place in the north part of Northumberland Inlet) had been frequently traversed by several of the intelligent natives who visited us ; but, unless discreetly questioned, it is rare for an Esquimaux to say much of himself, his people, or his native land. It is only by degrees, and by a long association with them, that any one can elict any material facts. At half-past 10 p.m. we were on the top of another moun- tain. Here we had something niore to eat ; an 1 then, pro- ceeding to the sea-ice, directed our steps toward the vessel. The walk was one of great labour, yet not so trying to the temper as that of some previous portion of the day. At three o'clock in the morning we arrived on board of tlie ship, completely exhausted with the fatiguing journey, made, during eighteen hours, over a distance of about twenty-five miles. 1 / - 'I ^1 ^1 !« i |i • ■>^- lill CHAPTER XVII. A successful Deer-hunt — Se-ko-se-lar Inmiits—The Land Pass — Magnificent Scenery — Countess of Warwick Sound — Important Discovery — RcJic of Frobisher's Expedition— Sledge-dHve in a Snow-storm — Value of a Compass —Safe Arrival mi Board— State of the Ice — The Whale Dvp6tStranger Innuits airive — Two boats of White Men land on the Coast — After-hiow- ledge of the Tridh — Loss of the English Store-ship "Kitty " — ?hc Locality of Sekoselar — Tradition of Parry's Voyage — Old Innuits remcr,, ler visiting him — Sekoselar Innuits dislike civilization Food — "Barbarous Stuff" — Physical Superiority of tlie Sekoselar Men. The following day, May 21st, 1861, Ebierbing and Mingu- mailo returned from their deer-hunt. They had been success- ful, having shot with a rifle of mine three deer, one of which was lost, and the other two were secured. It appeared that Ebierbing first shot one of a group of eight which they came across. It straggled and fell before he could approach the spot, but rose again and ran away. In a moment more, however, he managed to shoot another, and Mingumailo a third. Thus was secured to us several hundred pounds of fresh meat — venison. Tlae deer were killed high up in the mountains, and the two hunters had to carry the carcases (portions at a time) a dis- tance of two miles down to the sea-ice, where they made a cache by piling on heavy stones. What they could carry of it to the ship they did, and all of us on board had an excellent feast. About this time we heard that some Innuits had arrived at Sampson's settlement from the " Sekoselar " mentioned in a note at page 186. The news made me still more anxious to proceed on my exploring trip, but various causes tended to prolong my delay, and, even when ready for the excursion, I was unable to proceed farther than a day's journey. The Esquimaux are good as guides, as companions, as w JOUIiNKY TO FKOinSHF.lt BAY. ,513 ^ass— Magnificent xovery — Relic of Juc of a Compasn BvpOt—Stranger ast — After-know- '—?he Locality of ct, >cr visiting him Stuff"— Physical ■T and Mingii- 1 been success- ', one of which appeared that ich they came )roach the spot, more, however, a thu'd. Thus I fresh meat — ns, and the two t a time) a dis- e they made a could carry of lad an excellent 9 had arrived at mentioned in a lore anxious to luses tended to he excursion, I irney. companions, as hunters ...vi purwj'ors of food, Imt it is impossible to place any groat dependence upon them in keeping faith as to time or one's wishes on a journey. Tliey will do just as they please ; and if aught is seen that may serve them for food, they will away in chase, no matter how much delay is thereby occasioned in a wliite man's enterprise, or however great the loss and inconvenience. In my case, absolutely dependent upon them for aid in exploring, I coulu do nothing but exer- cise iuy patience to the fullest degree. Hence it was not until the 27th of May that I was able to start on another trip to the waters of Frobisher Bay. At that season of the year, travelling over the ice and snow- covered land by dai/ was almost impossible. The slush and the numerous pools of water upon the former rendered a pas- sage not only very difficult, but often dangerous ; and, upon the land, the fatigue occasioned was more than could be well endured. Night, therefore, was chosen for our journeys, unless occasion required us to continue on during the day. Accordingly, at 10 P.M. of the 27th of May I started from the ship with dogs and sledge, after having my outfit well attended to by Tookoolito. She was unable to accompany her husband, who had joined my company. The rest of my companions were two Innuit men and two women, one of them being Punnie, and the other a beautiful young woman called An-nu-tik-er-tung, wife of Kus-se-e-ung, Myself and the two women led the way, and in about an hour arrived where the upper village had been during the winter. Here we stopped to collect various things belonging to the Tnnuits who were with me, and which they had left there when de- parting for Frobisher Bay. We also stopped at another spot not far off, and collected tent-poles, coverings, kia frames, buckets, skins, &c. making a very considerable addition to our already heavy load. It was an hour and a half past midnight when we again started, but our foot travel was now good, the best of the season, the ice being firm during the night. During the walk I had an interesting conversation with '< II i I, I ' I 314 ! 1, li'i' tin FM if (,' LiFK WITH TiiK i:sguiM\rx. Ebicn-biny, who, anioiig otlior tliiii<4,s, t»ikl mc of tlie dge. Tliis I soon perceived to be the case. "While con- sulting with them, I could see quite enough to convince me so. The wind was then blowing strong frcjui the south. A heavy sea was at work tearing up the ice between Nionntelik and Twerpukjua. To where we were, the distance from the raging, open sea was not two hundred fathoms. It was a trial to me to give up this trip, yet I acted as I believe a wise man should, and accordingly determined to abandon tlie attempt and tiy it by boat. 1 therefore ordered our return ; but as I wished to examine the islands of Oopung- newing and Nionntelik, I proposed to Ebierbing that we should stay three or four days at Annawa's ; and, to prevent our being encunil)ered with so much baggage as I had brought for an extended trip, told him to make a transfer of it fronr our sledge to Johnny Bull's, who would take it back to the ship. While this transfer was being made, my eye accidentally caught sight of a piece of hick, among sundry odds and ends of Innuit articles brought from the upper village at the head of Field Bay. While looking upon it, I called to mind the story 1 had heard from old Ookijoxy Ninoo about relics of this kind seen on Niountelik, and 1 at once asked Kusseeung and Arngmer-che-uug what it was. They replied, " Stone " — a stone that the old mother of the latter had given him a long time ago. I then asked from whence she got it, and both Innuits immediately pointed to the island Niountelik, which was less than half a mile from where we stood. Ebierbing took this bright-coloured brick from my hand, looked at it, and said, " That is the same as I have seen on •' 1 V'f- V 316 UFE WITH TIIK E.S(iUIMAUX. M !'i • > '■' ",>i that island," pointing to Niountolik. He tlion added, " Many of my ac([uaintunce.s np the inK't (nicauing Northumberland) have pit'ces of tho same kind that came from that island." My feelings upon seeing the piece of brick, and hearing what was said about it, may be easily imagined. There, in my hand, was undoubtedly a relic of that expedition which liad visited the place only eighty-six years after the discovery of America by Columbus, since which time it has remained unknown to the civilized world I This relic, then, was more precious to me than the gold which Frobiaher sought there under the direct patronage of Queen Elizabeth. Until now no proof had existed that Frobisher and his expedition ever visited the particular bay or " straits " bearing his name ; but, from all that I had gathered from the information given me by the natives, and from what I had now seen, a strong con- viction rested on my mind that it was so, and doubt was at at end. After stopping at Twerpukjua nearly three hours, I bade adieu to those of my Innuit friends who were going to Samp- son's, and proceeded toward Annawa's at Oopungnewing. Johnny Bull and his party took their way to the ship, Ebier- bing accompanying me. When near Oopungnewing, we saw Punnie coming to meet us, and soon she gave us the information that Annawa and'the whole settlement had gone to Og-bier-seer-o-ping (Cape True), and now not a tupic remained. Here again was another dis- appointment. I had no tent with me, having left my own at the vessel, and it would not do to remain without shelter, as a gale was even then blowing, therefore we had no alternative but to return. Accordingly, we rejoined Johnny Bull with his party, and were soon on our way, at a swift speed, over the ice, toward the land pass. Our backs were nearly to the wind and snow, and therefore our trouble from this source was far less than if facing it. The gale helped us greatly a part of the way back. It drove the sledge sometimes faster than the dogs could go ; thus oc- casionally they were dragged along instead of their drawing h ' h LINCOLN DAY AND BAYAKD TAYLOll PAHS. 317 ua. Bosiilt'H thin, tla; strong wind liiul dosed the gap which wo had bei^u obliged to avoid in the morning, and we now traversed the ico as safely as though we were passing over tt marbled lloor. Soon afterward wo came to the glare ice of Lincoln Hay,* which is on this (the west) side of the Bayard Taylor I'asa. Here the wind and snow played fantastic tricks with the sledge, dogs, and all our company. We were in company with the other Innuits, but Joe, myself, ami Johnny IJull were footing it whiles passing along this bay. Had the wind been against \is all would have been well, but it came quartering on our right Imnil and at our backs, and this caused numerous eddies and snow-wreaths. We were aheail of the sledge, intending to jump upon it as it passed. After resting a while, on it came ; and, watching the opportunity, Joe and Johnny were fortunately able to spring on, but I could not. Just as I made my attempt, a terrific gust sent me whirling along for nearly a quarter of a mile over the glassy ico. Then my feet caught upon a firm snow-wreath, and I stuck fast till I gathered my senses to look round and see where I was. It was snowing fast and furiously, and what with that coming down, and that thrown upward .by the wind, every object three or four fathoms dis- tant was hidden from sight. Fortunately, the almost per- pendicular side of a mountain that I had before noticed was within a distance that could be seen. From this I struck a > • There are three important hays that make up from the ever memorable " Countess of Warwick Sound," which was discovered and so named by Frobisher nearly three centuries ago. The geographical position of this sound, as well as the nature and extent of Frobishir "Strait" (a misnomer, for it is a bay), remained unknown to the civilixed world from the days of Queen Elizabeth down to 1860-2, when 1 had the good fortune to re-discover, examine, and detei-mine nmch relating to Frobisher's Expeditions of 1676, 7, and '8. The three hays— important on account of their geographical and historical connexions — I have named, —1st. Lincoln Bay; 2d. Victoria Bay; and, 3d. Napoleon Bay, after three distinguished personages of the present day, to wit, the President of the United States of America, the Queeu of England, and the Emperor of France. ( Vide Chart. ) !; jl LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. M course leading up the bay to the land-route. In a short time I had overtaken the party, which liad been detained by one of the dogs giving out. Casting it off, I took a seat upon the sledge, and away we went merrily toward the pass. As we drove along we were a curious sight to behold, for we re- sembled a living snow-bank. We ascended the pass on foot, crossed the summit, de- scended on the other side, and again made the sea-ice of Field l^ay. Here two more of our dogs gave out, and we cast them adrift, though they still followed us. We had nine remaining, and this made a good team. We rested half an hour, then started again, the Innuits en- deavouring to find their way, as usual, by the previous sledge- tracks ; but we had to go this way and tluat way, in and out among the numerous islands covering the head of the bay, until finally all traces of oiir route were lost. Nevertheless, they would have found a course to the ship, though, perhaps, with some delay and difiiculty, but I saved all this by using my compass, and thus directing them which way to go, and by 9 P.M. we were on board, having been absent only 22^ hours. The followir.g day, May 29th, was the anniversary of our departure from the United States. !My thoughts at that time I find mentioned in my diary as follows : — " One year ago to-day the Oeorcjc Henry sailed from New London. It seems to me a short year, though spent in re- gions that, to many civilized men, would be repulsive, and would appear unqualified desolation. Still, I like this countiy — not as a place in which to spend all my life, if it be one of four- score and ten years, but for ivork to be continued three or five years." On the following day, as there appeared to be some indica- tions of its turning oiit fine, I thought of taking a trip to a place called by the Innuits Sing-ey-er. Accordingly, I pro- cured the services of Ebierbing and started ; but in two hours aftei'ward there came on thick weather, and every indication of a storm. We had, therefore, to abandon the journey and MAN-T1:A1'S. 319 pass. As we d, for we re- return. While we were out, however, and I was engaged taking obsei-vations, 1 heard a cry, " Mr. Hall ! " I looked around, and saw Ebierbing, at a little distance otf, crawling out of a hole in the ice into which he had fallen. I hastened to his assistance, but before my arrival he was out, and fortunately without any injury. As I have before mentioned, it is risky travelling on the sea-ice at this season of the year, on account of pools of water just beneath a covering of snow. A traveller passing along over an apparently excellent route often finds himself unex- pectedly floundering in water, and the cause of this danger may be explained in the following manner : — I examined several of these " man-traps " — as they really prove to be — and found large leaves of seaweed within these holes in the ice. Any extraneous matter, such as this sea- weed, stones, ashe.<3, &c. put on the surface of the ice, absorbs the solar heat, and soon sinks down into the ice, forming a water-hole not only the size of the object itself, but encircling quite a space around. A driving storm may afterward cover the surface with snow, and tliiis make a perfect man-trap. Soon after our return on board there was an arrival from Cape Tnie, where the George Henry's officers and men were staying to prosecute whaling. I learned that they were all doing well in the way of fresh food, ducks, walrus, &c. being abxindant. On the second day of June a party of Sekoselav Innuits, six in number, came to the ship, and we soon became very friendly together. At first these natives said nothing very particular further than that they had visited the Hudson's Ray Company's ships while passing up and down ; nor should I have obtained any other news had it not been elicited almost by accident. In fact, unless there be some motive to engage them in con- versation with strangers, the Esquimaux are seldom communi- cative. It is as if the aiowledge which they possess ought not to be given away unless for some especial reasons. The Innuits, as a race, are naturally reticent. They are often dis- tant and reserv(!d, and only by kindness, tact, and gradually i IJ M 'IV! 'r ri 'i 11 K 320 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX, leading up to a subject can any information be obtained from them. Thus it was not until the following day, when a letter arrived from Captain B , that I learned of these Esqui- maux being acquainted with some facts concerning white people dying at Sckoselar. The captain had heard it so reported by other natives, and wrote to me that I might make some inquiries about it. On the receipt of this letter I immediately sent for Ebier- bing and Tookoolito to come on board and act as interpreters. I then invited the two Sekoselar men (by name Ook-goo-al-loo and Too-loo-ka-ah) into the c. jin, and opened a conversation, in which both participated. Tookoolito was the principal speaker, and she interpreted very well my own questions and their answers. That her interpretation was correct, and equally so their information, has, since my return home, been proved by facts, which at that time I was unacquainted with. Indeed, I then misapplied the story, firmly believing it to br'a: upon the lost Franklin Expedition. What that story w; may be seen in the following substance of all which was related to me through Tookoolito : — The Sekoselar Innuits said that " no kodlunas (whites) had ever been to or ever died at Sekoselar, but two years previous to this time two kodluna boats, with many oars (meaning many oarsmen), arrived at a place farther down (at Kannowong*) — so they, the Sekoselars, had heard — and there stopped awhile ; how long, whether one or two days, was not known. That these kodlunas had plenty guns, plenty powder, plenty shot, plenty balls, and plenty small casks of provision. They had many tuktoo skins (reindeer furs) to wrap around their bodies and their feet. " To make their boats not so deep in the water, the kodlu- nas (whites) took out amasuadlo (a gi-eat many) balls and placed them on a rock. The Innuits at that place, and in the * I think Karmmoong to be the islands called by Baffin " Middle Savage Islands," north side of Hudson's Strait. Indeed, it may also include ijuito an extensive bay in that neighbourhood, wliich the Esquimaux sketched for me as being there. SEKOSELAR TRADITIOX. 321 vicinity where the kodlunas landed, thought the balls were soft stones. They supposed the whites had come from ships that had been lost or wrecked in the ice. " When these whites left the land they went farther down toward the big sea. " The whites had arrived at Karraowong in the fall of the year, one day when the weather was very bad, wind blowing very hard, and snowing fast. It was very cold too. " The Karmowong Innuits thought the whites had obtained their tuktoo furs of the Sekoselar men. The skins had on the winter coat of the tuktoo. None of the kodlunas died there. They all went away in boats, and the Innuits never saw or heard of them more." From further questions that I put, and which were readily answered, I concluded in my own mind that the kodlunas must have been at Karmowong in the fall of 1858, and the way the Sekoselar Innuits heard of it was by a native man who had seen the whites and the two boats. Now, upon receiving this information, I at length came to the conclusion that it referred to some of Franklin's lost crews. Two boats of white men going toward the great sea, and apparently subsisting upon Innuit food, with reindeer skins for wrappers, and other siich material, Avould seem to indicate that a few of the long-lost voyagers had at last made their way from King William's Land and Boothia toward the goal of their ultimate deliverance. The experience I had already gained of Esqxiimaux life proved to me what white men could endure under the exigency <^^ circumstances. There was myself — not reduced to any such absolute necessity as the poor English voyagers undoubtedly must have been — yet capable of sustaining and even of enjoying life among the natives. How much more so, then, the unfortunate men of Franklin's -.vTccked ships ? To me the matter seemed con- clusive, although I could not give implicit confidence to what I had heard until personally testing the truth by examination. On my return to the States, however, I find that tlie whole story must have had reference to the loss of a British vessel VOL. I. y ihii i • ft • V', "' I ,).i mi rl m 322 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX, called the Kitti/, which was crushed in the ice of Hudson's Strait in the fall of 1859, and the crew obliged to escape by two boats. Some of the particulars of their history remark- ably coincide with the information given to me by the Sekoselar Innuits, as may be seen in the Appendix No. 0, Another instance of the faithful preservation of traditions among the Innuits, and also of the accuracy of their reports when communicated freely, is to be found in the following additional information given to me by the Sekoselar natives. In seeking to obtain the truth concerning the two boats and white men, I induced Ookgooalloo to sketch me his "coiuitry" on paper. He did so, and by that sketch I was convinced that Sekoselar was not the King's Cape of Fox, as I had at one time supposed, but lies east of it, extending along the coast on the north side of Hudson's Strait about two degrees ; say from longitude 75° west to longitude 7o° west. This, then, would fill the blank on Parry's chart of that locality, and give to it, as the lunuit showed me, a deep bay, flfaiked by lowlands, with a narrow isthmus between the waters of this bay and the head of Frobisher Bay, thus shown so to be, instead of a " strait." The sketch which was drawii by Ookgooalloo extended h'Qin above Fox's farthest down to King's Cape, and thence along the north shore of Hudson's Strait to North Bay, where the upper Savage Islands are situated. "North Bluff" is adjoining that bay, and is called by Ix^nuits Ki-uk-tuk-ju-a, and King's Cape, Noo-ook-ju-a. "When the Sekoselar party left home in the previous year, 18G0, they travelled, as Ii.mnts generally do, vcri/ sloio. In the fall they arrived at the head waters of Frobisher Inlet, and Ookgooalloo marked upon his sketch the track they pursued from Sekoselar to the place where they commenced the land route across the isthmus. The head waters of Frobisher Bay they called See-see-ark-ju-a, and into it ran, according to his account (which I afterward found true), a river of fresh water, sometimes very large, and containing salmon in abundance. During the winter of 1860-1 this party of natives made their way down the bay TUAUITION OF PARKY 8 SHU'S. 323 f Hudson's escape by ory reinark- niG by the X No. 9. )f traditions ;lieir reports ke following lar natives. le two boats itch me his ketch I was 3e of Fox, as it, extending ait about two ide 73° west, hart of that 3, a deep bay, between the T, thus shown loo extended }, and thence ;h Bay, where ,rth Bluif " is Li-uk-tuk-ju-a, jkoselar party led, as li. inits d at the head rked upon his to the place 3 the isthmus, ee-see-ark-ju-a, ;h I afterward irery large, and he winter of down the bay till they came across " Sampson " and his people, at the place which I had visited a short time previous. Ookgooalloo then told me "that ships did not come in sight at Sekoselar, nor at Noo-ook-ju-a, but his father, Koo- ook-jum, had said that many years ago two ships came close to Noo-ook-ju-a (ICing's Cape) and Sekoselar, and that he, Koo-ook-jum, with many other Innuits, went out to the ships in kias and oomiens, and went on board." Now these two ships could be no other than Parry's, in his expedition of 1821-23, and consequently it was full forty years since the occurrence now mentioned took place. Parry's account is as follows : "July 314 1821.— Latitude 64° 01', longitude 75° 49' west. In the afternoon Captain Lyon discovered and made the signal for an Esquimaux oomiak coming off from shore under sail, accompanied by eight canoes. We tacked to meet them, and lay to half an hour for the purpose of adding to our stock of oil. In this boat were sixteen persons, of which number two only were men, an old and a young one, and the rest women and children. In the features, dress, and implements of these people we saw nothing different from those of the Esquimaux last described (those of the Savage Islands), but they were better behaved than the others, with whom our ships (meaning the Hudson's Bay Company's ships) have had more frequent intercourse." Again, under date of August 1st, Parry continues : — "Wo beat to the westward, between Nottingham Island and the north shore (King's Cape), the distance between which is about four leagues, and the latter fringed with numerous islands, In the course of the morning several canoes and one oomiak came off from the main land, containing about twenty persons, more than half of whom were women and children. T'lipy brought a little oil, some skin dresses, and tusks of the walrus, which they were desirous of exchanging for any trifle we chose to give them." In this account we see a complete verification of the state- ment made by Ookgooalloo as to his father's visit to the only 324 LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. V v'ii', ships known to have been near his own " country." And I the more particularly allude to it h(!cause of many other reports given to me concerning the past, all of which, in my opinion, have received equal confirmation. The natives from Sckoselar were not partial to civilized food, especially Ookgooalloo and his wife Pittikzhe, for they bad not tasted any before. We gave each of them a mug of coffee and some sea-biscuit. They tasted it — spit it oiit — tried it again and again, and finally the man contrived to " worry " it down ; but the woman gave it up, declaring, in her own Innuit way, tluit " such staff was not fit to oat." Though repeatedly urged to participate in the regular meals served to the Esquimaux on board, I'ittikzhe positively declined tasting any more " such harhnrons food." I found that the Innuits of Sckoselar had a very peculiar way of speaking — that is, with a slow, drawling tone. Their words are "long drawn out." The natives in our locality made fun of this, and it still more convinced me that there is a considerable variance between the dialects of different bands of the Esquimaux. Another thing I noticed was the physical superiority of these men over those living aroiuid Field Bay, and along the coasts visited by wha:ing ships. Whether all of the Sckoselar people were equal to those whom I saw I am unable to say, but "Sanqison," who was also a native of that district, showed, as I have before said, to similar advantage when compared with the Innuits in our vicinity. After making these men and women several presents, for which they expressed much gratitude, they departed at 5 p.m. on their return to Sampson's tupic, then near Evictooti, about one day's journey N.W. of Oopunj^uewing. \ i ' fi EXD OF VOL. I. ha I ft' M. CLAY, SON, ANU TAVLOU, FUIN TEKS, UllKAU STUEKT llll.L. JX. " country." And I use of many other all of Avliieh, in my partial to civilized 3 rittikzhe, for thoy icli of them a mug ted it— spit it out — e man contrived to xip, declaring, in her , lit to oat." Though ;ular meals served to vely declined tasting had a very peculiar rawling tone. Their tives in our locality inced me that there dialects of different lo- I noticed was the those living around (d by whaling ships. J equal to those whom 5on," who was also a liavo before said, to 1 the Innuits in our I several presents, for hey disparted at 5 p.m. 1 near Evktooii, about ng. AU IjTUEKl llll.L. msmrm^mmiii HI It) R<>r«'iM'»u'i».'» A -VhiftiT 'I'frnrJi'arMiiir i • Hit I H.9 4*1 ' "Htttljtf " *' H^f^t'tiitr or Miiif Oil Hiiif/.v itf'.V/iitft t' Iron IUiU,$itfl>f,Si,ii,l I' '\*hip.tBnnh9'or Mitt* n tKrtHf m' I i-tnt Hnit/J I (l/llXV lllllllil X"i lii.f/,i/K Viviii'l, tt J III. 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