IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V A sy {/. /a 1.0 I.I 2.5 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" — ► P^ V] A »>/ •;> // o / A /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY MS80 (716) 873-4503 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute f jr Historicai Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques T The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D n Coloured covers/ Couverture dp couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur6e et/ou pelliculde □ Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque "] Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur nt: Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ ere de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have beon omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout^es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmdes. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m6thode normale de fiimage sont indiqu6s ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ n n n n Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurdes et/ou pellicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachet^es ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pages ddtachdes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ Quatit^ in^gale de I'impression . eludes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel supplementaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 film6es d nouveau de fagon A obtenir la meilleure image possible. T P o fi O b th si ot fii si oi Tl sf Tl w M di er be "£ re^ mi n Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppldmentaires; This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 7 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Nnf.ional Library of Canada L'exemplairn film6 fut reproduit gr&ce A la g6n6ro8it6 de: Bibliothdque nationale du Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — ^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END ), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large ^o be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de I'exemplaire filmd, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim^e sont film6s en commenqant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbcle — ♦► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie 'FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s A des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 d partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE THE SUMMIT Ol" TJIK CIIII.COOT VASS, [See JMf/e SH, RUSTON TO KLoXPlKK THE ^^lu^AfrVi: ^>i \£r rnnovoH BnmsH ooiuMHfA THK mmTH-WEST Tl'MRJTOEy IN THE .WMMEH OF 1898. wr JULIUS M. FKICE. F.R.U.S. ^sfujit AnmiK^vttREKi^vsBKst or tub "ur,«8TaATK» toxooif %tya' \etm\i op ■• VMCit tKfc jijiovjc oob^w to rnt rRfiow sea" "TOT tism o» ooi»," Krrc. HWTM MAP .*N<) ILLUSTRATIONS fWOM SKETCHES BY T#« AUTWOH ANO PHOTOGRAPHS -^ > LuNDON V1P80N LOW, M.AKSroX & COMPANY •Fettkr Lik»k riKBT Ftkk^t, e.g. .4> PWVUtUNK- t ■ t.t'^ .' «tf)«tf9aHHiM«iM>*Mi J \>fT OV THE CHItCOOT I'AfJ'-. 4^;L FROM RUSTON I'O KLONDIKE / ; THH XAURATrVH (IF A JOURXF.Y TH nor a II BRITISH COLUMIIIA AND THE XORTH'WEST TERRITORY IX THE SUMMER OF /SOS BY JULIUS M. PRICE, F.R.G.S. HrECIAI, ARTIST-CORBEWI'OXDENT OF TlIK " ILLUSTItATKlt LONDON NEWS " AUTHOIt OF " FltOK THE ARCTIC OCEAN TO THE YELLOW SEA " '•the land OF GOLD," ETC. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SKETCHEU BY THE AUTHOR AND PHOTOGRAPHS LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY LIMITKO a„ just published. How I Found Livingstone. Indudins Four Monthi' Residence with Dr. Livingstone. Uy Henky M. Stanlry. The Cruise of the ' Falcon.* A Voyage to South America in a Thirty-ton Yacht. Hy E. F. Knight. The Great Lone Land. A Record of Travel and Adventure in North and West America. Hy Gen. Sir W. F. Butlkk, K.C.B. Men. Mines, and Animals In South Africa. By Lord Kandolhh Churchill. The River Congo. From the Mouth to B<}I(5b<3. By H. H. JOHNSTO.N, C.M.G. Clear Round I Seeds ofStorv from other Countries ; a Chronicle of L nks and Rivets in ihis World's Girdle. By E. A. Qohuov. The Cruise of H.M.S. 'Challenger.' Scenes in Ma:iy Lands, Voypscs over Many Seas. By W. J. J. Sirv, R.N., F.R.G.S. Through Masai Land. A J[ourney of Explor&tion among the Snow-clad Volcanic Mountains and Strange '''ribes of I: astern I* qiiatoriai Africa. By Joski'H Thomsom. The Wild North Land. By Gen. Sir Wm. F. Butler, K.C.B. Coomassle. The Story of the Campaign in Afiica, 1873-74. by H. M. Stanley, M.P. Magdala. The Story of the Abyssinbn Campaign of 1866-67. By H. M. Stanley, M.P. Hausaland. By Rev. C. H. Rokinson, M.A. Two Kings of Uganda. By Rev. R. P. Ashe, M.A. Two Roving Englishmen in Greece. By Isabel J. Armstrong. How I Shot My Bears ; or. Two Years' Camp Life in Kullu and Lahoul. By Mrs. R. H. Tyacke. On the Indian Hills : Coffee Planting in Southern India. By Edwin Lestek Arnolo. On Horseback *hrough Asia Minor. By Col. Fred Burnabv. London : SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & CQMPANY, Limit»d, St. Dunstan's House, Fettuu Lane, E.C. NOTE I AM indebted to the proprietors of the lllmtmled London News for their kind permission to re- produce in this work the sketches and drawineep Lake to Linderman • • • • - PAGE 89 40 CHAPTER VJIL LINDERMAN AND IlENNEri'. The «' hoiel " at Linderman— First experience of a bunk- house— Boat-building— A wonderful scene— The coup d'ceil Linderman— From Linderman to Bennett— Bennett— Shooting the rapids— Arrival of oin- bag- gage—Our Jap cook— Packing the canoe— The start for Dawson 103 CHAPTER IX. LAKE BENNETT TO LAKE MAUSH. An exciting race— The J. B. Goddard~Uke Tagish Police Camp— Captain Strickland— A gang of mur- derers—Miners' licences— Afternoon scene on Lake Marsh— First experience of the Alaska mosquitoes— A dismal camping-ground . 121 CHAPTER X. FHOM LAKE MAKSH TO DAWSON CITV. The Canon and White Horse Tramway-Miles Canon Rapids— The White Horse Rapids— Lake Lebarge— I! xii . CONTENTS A bath under difficulties — Curious fishing experience — Weather-bound — Forty Mile River — The com- mencement of the Yukon — Forest fires — Animal and bird life on the Yukon — The Five Finger liapids — The Rink Rapids — Our daily life on the Yukon — A curious incident — Nearing our goal — Dawson at lasi. CHAPTER xr. DAWSON' crrv. First impnssions — Inspector and Mrs. Constantine — The main street — Dawson City — Famine prices — Menu of a little dinner — The Bank of British North America — The prospects of the Klondike district — Market value of gold — The royalty question — Interview with Major Walsli ....... CHAPTER XII. r.VGB 134 lt)2 DAWSox CITY (continued) — A visit to honanza and kldorado. The Klondike River — liousctown — The trail to the creeks — The halfway house — Harris has an unpleasant accident — A good Samaritan — A "wash-up" on Bonanza — The modus operandi — " Discovery " and other claims — " Siwash " George — The Forks — Eldo- rado — Gold-stealing — Chat with Justice McGuire — Sunday in Dawson — Return to the creeks — Staking a claim— The N.A.T. and T. Co 18«J CHAPTER XIII. DAWSON CITV TO SI. MICHAELS. Farewell to Dawson City — The Charles II. Hamilton — Our passengers — Our freight — Native pilots — The CONTENTS Porteus D. Weare—Fovi Ciulahy— Wooding-up— The Yukon Flats— Circle City— Stranded— Rampart City — Fort Weare — An awkward accident— The Bella — Captain Hanson — A Masonic funeral — A native canoe— Holy C'ross Mission— Russian Mission — Arrival at St. Michaels XIII PAOR 220 CHAPTER XIV. ST. MICHAKLS. Arrival of the JIamilton~ThQ wharf— TIiq hotel— A good Samaritan— Fort St. Michaels— Relics of the past— Boat-building— The United States officials at St. Michaels — Revenue cruiser Bear — The native settlement T'satsiimi- A visit to the Unaleet tribe- Delay in getting away from St. Michaels— The s.s. Boanoke — Advice to intending emigrants — St. Michaels to the Aleutian Islands, Dutch Harbour, Unalashka, and Seattle 257 APPENDIX A. Regulations governing Placer Mining in the Provisional District of Yukon 27.3 APPENDIX B. Regulations governing me issue of leases to dredge for minerals in the beds of rivers in the Provisional District of Yukon 288 IXPEX 293 . • LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Frontispiece The Summit op thk Chilcoot Pass One op the Arrow Lake Steamers ROSSLAND. Le ROI MiNE 051 HiLL AT BaCK The Le Roi Mine Taring Stores to the Camp. A Sketch ox the Road to Sophie Mountain .... The Landslide Slogan City The Main Street, Sandon, 1896 . The Main Street, Sandon, 1898. Pack Train about to start for the Mines A Pack Train going to the Mines, Sandon The Schooner "Hera" Coast Scene near Wrangel . Totem Pole, Indian Grave-yard, Wrangel Skaguay ...... Dyea On the Road to Canyon City Looking up the Chilcoot Pass. Showing Aerial Tram LINE on Top Chilcoot Pass, seen prom Crater Lake Linderman Interior op the Linderman Bunk-house, and one op the Lady Lodgers Boat-building, Linderman .... Bennett Thk Rapids between Linderman and Bennett Group op Murderers, Police Camp, Tagish . PAfJB 8 H 18 2o 41 45 48 49 52 62 64 65 69 76 80 85 91 10? lOf- 109 114 116 127 Il i - M x?i 'LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Miner's Licence .... On Lake Mai;8H .... On Lake Marsh .... Loading the Canoe on the Tbamway The Miles Canon Rapids Shooting the White Horse Rapids My Canoe and Pautv on the Yukon A Typical Yukon Doax The River Front, Dawson City River Front, Dawson . Street Scene, Dawson City Street Scene, Dawson City Sketch in the Bank Major Walsh A Wash-IP on Bonanza Eldorado Creek, looking towards French Gulch Outside the Post-office, I' >lice Camp, Dawson City My Canoe in Foreground Arrival of War Xews, Dawson City The Wharf, Dawson City, with Steamers "C. H Hamilton" and "Porteus B. Weare" Departure of the " Hamilton " The Crowd to see us off. Dawson City Joaquin Miller, the "Poet op the Sierras." A Sketch ON Board the "Hamilton" .... On Board the "Hamilton." Sobie of our Passengers Fort Weare A Wood Station on the Yukon .... A "Cache" Seattle ........ PAOR 128 129 131 135 187 139 157 IGl 163 167 169 173 177 185 199 202 211 214 219 223 225 228 2.3:; 244 249 265 272 MAP. Map of Klondike Goldfields To face 272 FROM EUSTON TO KLONOlIvK CHAPTER I. LONDON TO ROSSLAND. The Canadian Pacific Ilaihvay — Kovolstoke — Steamboat Jonrney en the Arrow Lakes from Arrowhead to Rol>son— Trail (.'reek — The Cohimbia and Western Railway to Kossland— An exciting experience. " Well, I dcjn't env}^ you your journey," was the invariable remark when I mentioned to any one in London that I was about to start for Klondike. Nor was I altogether surprised, for I must confess that the mere name raised up in my mind visions of all the fearful hardships and dangers that are supposed to be inseparable from such a journey as I was about to undertake to those far-off Arctic solitudes, in whose gloomy fastnesses Nature has apparently made her storehouse of gold. 2 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE Once my journey decided upon, I settled to leave England early in the year, so as to leave myself ample time, whilst crossing Canada, to pay flying visits to the various new mining camps and mushroom towns of the West. Profiting by pre- vious experience, I determined not to purchase an elaborate outfit in England, but confined myself to a few indispensable articles which cannot well be procured out of the Old Country. The bulk of my kit could be got in Vancouver. I was to be accompanied by an old friend and cousin of mine, Lionel Harris, who was the re- presentative of the Financed News of London. From Liverpool to New York on the Campania, a few days' stay at the palatial Waldorf Astoria, then on to Canada by the Delaware and Hudson Railway, is as delightfully luxurious a trip as may well be imagined. Doubtless, to have crossed the Atlantic by an old cargo steamer would have been a fitter preparation for a rough journey to the far North- West ; still, the good things of the world are not to be despised or avoided when they can be obtained, and we found ourselves in Montreal, none the worse or the less keen for our prospective i t •M^'i LONDON TO RO SSL AND expedition from liaving taken the most comfort- able means of getting' tliere. The journey across Canada by the Canadian Pacific Railway has been so often described as to be comparatively familiar to the English reader — ■ to whom, thanks to rapid transit and cheap literature, the world is becoming every day more and more, as it were, an open book. A war of rates was being vigorously waged between the Canadian Pacific Railway and the Grand Trunk Railway at the time of my trip, in consequence of the rush to the Pacific seaboard of prospectors ani800,0()0 in dividends, of which ijj^^OO.OOO were paid in 181J7. The War Eagle, another famous mine adjoining the Le Koi, has paid over jS? 187,000. And there are other mines on the same side of the mountain, amongst which are the Columbia and Kootenay, (Centre Star, Josie, and Nickel Plate, that will, when more advanced, run the Le Roi output very closely, for their ore chutes are also immensely rich, llossland is distinctly not a poor man's camp. Every inch, as it were, of shafting or turmel- ling has to be accounted for by hard work and expense, which practically excludes the small purse. The actual prospector, therefore, can do but little more than prove his location to be a fair prospect, and, if he has no means, trust to his luck for some i »fst:>^ji:stttis;^^}»^:r wrr Ti" I ill i 20 FHOM EVSTON TO KLONDIKE capitalist to take it off' his hands and make a mine out of it. It therefore nearly always happens that what are now rich properties were originally bought as prospects for a mere song, and gradually changed owners as development progressed, until they reached the rich American or English . syndicate. This has been more especially noticeable in Rossland, where, owing in a great measure to the recent advent in the camp of the British America Corporation, with its huge capital and with Lord Dufferin at its head, a revival of energy all along the line is apparent. Claims that had been abandoned owing to lack of funds have been suddenly taken up again, prosjiecting in the neighbouring districts has been actively prosecuted, and everything points to an era of prosperity for the town, and this time on a solid basis. To the Hon. C. H. Macintosh, Governor of the North- West Territories, wiio has recently joined the directorate, is undoubtedly also due a great measure of the popularity and success that have followed in the wake of the British America corporation. There is but little doubt that a RO SSL AND mine strong personality, or rather individuality, has an appreciable effect on all big undertakings, and Rossland, therefore, in the opinion of most people here, will be largely indebted to the popular governor for any measure of future prosperity. I had looked forward to paying a visit to the Le Roi mine, but unfortunately an accident had just happened in one of the lower levels, several yards of shafting having collapsed, so no visitors were allowed. I therefore had to content myself with an inspection of one of the next best mines — the Centre Star — thanks to the courtesy of one of the principal owners, Mr. Oliver Darant, a charming gentleman, who showed us through the workings, and explained everything with all the delight of a father proud of his child's prowess. The mine is situate at tne foot of the mountain a little lower down than the War Eagle and I^e Roi, and tunnel- ling to the extent of several thousat'd feet has been done. Although not so interesting, from an outsider's point of view, as a mine where free gold is visible, tliis was a good object-lesson in the art of mining in the Kootenay, and gave one an idea of what has been done on the aljoining properties, i ^ ■•22 FliOM EUSTON TO KLONDIK^j which are still more advanced. Imaj;ijine a tunnel cut through solid metal, and some conception may be formed of the work that has to be done and the obstacles overcome before these Kootenay mines can even be considered in their initial stage. In a narrative that is purely descriptive, statistics are superfluous, but at this point a few will be of interest for the purposes of comparison. As far as 1 could make out, the Kossland ore, which is what is known as & refractory ore, consists principally of sulphides of various metals ; of these pyrrhotite, or magnetic iron pyrites, is by far the most abundant. The pyrrhotite contains gold and silver in varying quantities, gold ranging from traces up to several ounces to the ton, and the silver from traces to four or five ounces to the ton. Taking the gross value of the ore roughly at $25, from this must be deducted working expenses — viz. mining and putting (u railway j|5 per ton, freight and treat- ment at $7.50 per ton, leaving a net profit of $12.50 per ton, thus showing that fifty per cent, of the ore value is swallowed up in expenses. It will, therefore, be seen that no mine in the Kootenay can be worked with any measure of ^1 I •J i BOSSLAND 23 financial success unless provided with the strongest sinews of war, in the shape of a large amount of ready capital, in which event it is a case of money making money. Unless one was personally interested in mining there was but little to tempt one to pay more tlian a Hying visit to Rossland, where almost the sole topic of conversation from morning till night is "ledge;- ' '--^ ore shoots," and picturesque subjects ^or one's pen or pencil almost non-existent, as may be imagined. I was not sorry, therefore, when an opportunity offered for an excursion to a neigh- bouring camp in a district known as Sophie Mountain. Although only some ten miles distant, a range of snow-covero-d mountains, GOOO feet high, had to be crossed, so the trip promised to be an interesting an<^ novel one. An early stit t v,t;^ made one fine morning. We were a party of fv.i \ raountod on the lively little horses k'lown out hdo as *' cayuses," and were soon galloping nierril^^ along the muddy ti'ack leading from the town. Snow had disappeared from the vallev, and all looked bright and spring- li'-'o, but a; •' ascended the sceiie gradually ■Jl I : i I \ 24 FnOM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE changed, and we found ourselves returning to winter, till at last deep snow surrounded us on all sides. The trail, meanwhi);), became so steep that the journey was becoming very interesting, not to say exciting — now along the very verge of a precipice on frozen snow, where the slightest mistake of our horses would mean catastrophe ; then tlirough dense pine forests lo: black and sepulchral in contrast to the dead white of the snow, and with here and there the well-defined trail of a mountain lion or bear to arouse ones sporting instincts. At some places the narrow track became so steep that it was wonderful how our horses kept their foothold on the treacherous surface. It certainly was perilous work, and we all had narrow escapes from serious accident. The ascent to the summit seemed interminable, and the worst part had yet to come. The going up was bad, but the descent on the other side was ten times worse. To ride was impossible, so it meant leading the horses the whole way down, with the risk of them falling on one at any awkward place. Several times I missed the trail, and found m3'self rioundering, \x\> to my chin almost, in the soft snow. I to on iing, of >w m lAMNli ^roUKs l\) TIIK (AMI-, A SKIirc II ON illi: HuAI) To sonui; Mill MA IN. ! 'it' » t ii M w I RO SSL AND 27 fully expecting to find my horse plunging in on top of me, as I pulled myself out by means of the stirrup-leathers. To the snow succeeded a sticky semi-liquid mud, which was if anything more difficult to get through. If we had not been liampered with our horses, we should have had much less trouble. As it was, it certainly was an ill-timed expedition. We at length reached the camp, and without mishap, luckily. Two log-built cottages constituted the camp, and ill a very few minutes, considering our visit was (juite unexpected, we were sitting down to a hot and well-cooked dinner served by a cook resplen- dent in a white apron and cap, and everything as clean as one could have found anywhere under similar conditions. Every mine in the country, it may be here mentioned, has its own "boarding- house," where the men take their meals at regular liours. The food is prepared by a cook and assistant, specially engaged for the work. A fixed charge of f I per day is made all through British ( 'olumbia, and all miners and employees are liound by their agreement to take their meals here. In some cases, no doubt, where the mine is i) i 28 fhom euston to Klondike situate near a town, the management make money by this arrangement, but where, as at Sophie Mountain, provisions have to be brought a con- siderable distance, a loss ensues. There is, how- ever, one indisputable advantage for the men — they are certain of hot, clean, and well-cooked meals during the day, and under such conditions they must be in better health and more equal to their work than if they are "pigging it" by themselves, as is the case in most mining camps. At some of the mines they board as many as a hundred and fifty men, and there are several cooks and assistants. The salary of these cooks averages from i|45 per month up, and for this tliey are expected to be adepts at pastry, cakes, etc., as well as ordinary cooking, for the miners get fastidious, and expect something tasty for their dollar. We spent a portion of the afternoon visiting the Victory and Triumph and Velvet Mines, both of which, though at present little more than good prospects, are considered veiy promis- ing, and may one day make a big place of the district. The Velvet was the most advanced. liOSSLANf) 29 iin;.Hl, then it is piled in a circular lieap and ilivided into four (quarters ; three of these are taken away and stored^ the remainder is again thoroughly mixed i U-XAd^^datl^*,.. . :■ W: If!: H li iM 1 t ■I ir i . I • « I :iG /'^7?0J/ EU8T0N TO KLONDIKE and tjuartcred ; three of these are removed, and the operation repeated several times, until the (quarter becomes so small that it can be conveniently liandled on a specially constructed table,, where it is pounded and rubbed into a fine powder, which, in its turn, is also mixed and (quartered till only a small amount remains, which is consequently an accurate sample of the entire car-load. This sample is divided into two portions, one of which is sealed up and handed to the owner, the other is ppssed through the assay test, and an approxi- mate value of the ore per ton thus arrived at. Sample car-loads of ore are frec^uently sent to the smelter from distant and undeveloped mines at considerable expense ; and it is at times, I learnt, most amusing the exaggerated ideas the owners have of the value of their property. I was shown a heap of stuff that had bnen sent by an old prospector, who was convinced that he had at last struck his lucky star. For he was certain his precious car-load would run at least $1000 to the ton. When he was informed that the assay barely returned J8, his indignation knew no bounds, and, although he had been present at all the operations, il 11 I* .. JWSSLANT) TO SPOKANE 87 he went about telling every one that he had been swindled ! Meanwhile the heap of ore lay waiting another assay. It is a ten hours' railway journey from Nelson to Spokane, Washington, U.S.A., but this counts as only a short run in these parts, so, as one of our friends lived there and wished to show us the hospitality of his " home," we decided to make the trip there. We certainly were repaid for our decision, for not only was the journey a most interesting one, giving glimpses of river scenery along the mighty Columbia, whinh for grandeur I have never seen surpassed, but Spokane itself was well worth the visit. It is a typical American western town of some 40,000 inhabitants, with the tall buildings, cable cars, network of over- head wires, and, in fact, all that goes to make up that indefinable "something," which is so characteristic of the huiry and bustle and energy of the States. Apart from this business aspect, in the outskirts of the town, in sylvan surround- ings that reminded one of tlio Old Country, are many evidences of wealth in the way of country houses of astonishing artistic beauty. All these 1.1 }tii ^ ■ I ■ 1 y 1 1 '< I' : i' I; \'\ ;( ';■ I! ti! 111 38 i^iJOJI/ EU8T0N TO KLONDIKE beautiful "homes" are the work of a local architect of great talent, and almost every con- ceivable form of architecture and style is repre- sented, from the old English farmhouse, nestling in trees and surrounded by old-time flower gardens, to the modern French chateau with its terraced parterres. The effect, though obtained in almost all instances by means of wood, is most delightful and original. I was so charmed that I sought the architect with a view to his designing something of the sort for myself in England. At Spokane are the famous falls of the Spokane River, a magnificent scene, though somewhat marred, for, with the usual American ingenuity, the grand torrent is utilized to supply motor power and electric light for the entire town. Spokane struck me as being a lively enough little })lace to live in. Like in all Western "camps," life seems to be passed either in business or gambling, and there is every opportunity for both, the latter more especially. Saloons, where faro, poker, klon- dike, or roulette can be played night or day with- out intermission, abound all over the place, and » ^ 1 (■ BO SSL AND TO SPOKANE 89 there are stories of big fortunes having been lost in them (I never heard of anvthinor fabulous being won). Apart, hovever, from these blots, there are several good hotels and restaurants, an excellent theatre (Melba was singing there at the time), smart newspapers, and delightful society. I spent a few days very pleasantly, and was not a little sorry when the time arrived to return to British Columbia and continue my journey towards the North, I. i ti; * II jii fill ;«; itriii iBiiiirr*"— ^"■' ■fr-^ Ml I I .-' 11 If '■'J f: I i* i i It i >! i 40 i^/.'OJIf EUSTON TO KLONDIKE CHAPTER IV. SPOKANE TO VANCOUVER. A landslide— Destruction of Nortlipovt — A cvirious incident on the line — Slocan cit\' — Sport in tlio Slocan distiict — Silverton — Handon — An interesting trip — Sandon to Van- couver. Our party broke up at Spokane, as most of us were going different ways. I had decided to con- tinue my journej' to Vancouver through the Slocan district, where were many places of interest well worth a visit, so I had to return to Nelson. My return journey was marked by a characteristic incident — a big landslide had occurred only a few hours previously, and completely blocked the line in a particularly dangerous part, along the top of a high embankment on the river side. Our train ran as close up to it as was deemed safe, the passengers alighted and climbed SPOKANE TO VANCOUVER 41 over the fallen masses of rock and earth, the baggage was carried across, and we all whiled away the time as best we could whilst waiting for the relief train which would be sent to enable us to continue our journey. A big gang of men, TIIK I.A\I)SM1>K. meanwhile, was vigorously attacking the slide, liut it looked like a heav}'^ task removing it. The little frontier town of Northport had i)ecn totally destroyed by fire some three days pre- viously, and when we passed through it the entire population was living in hastily improvised ^1 ;^|| 4 Hi •I ^ll i h. ? i I: I I ¥ ^ i 1 1 ^ ■? 1 t 1 1 1 " lI ! i !ii I I 42 FEOM EU8T0N TO KLONDIKE shelters — a singularly curious scene. Although the ruins were still smouldering, lumber was being rapidly unloaded, and in several instances new houses and shops were already started — dogged energy, thoroughly characteristic of the Anglo- Saxon. Some little distance further, the train suddenly pulled up as we were running alongside a swift mountain stream. A group of men was waiting on the line, holding something, dripping wet and uncanny looking, on a sort of improvised stretcher made of branches. We learned that a man had been drowned here an hour previously, and his body had just been recovered. His mates wished to send it to the nearest tov/n, so it was put in one of the baggage cars ; the men climbed in with it, and off we started again. From Nelson to the Slocan Lake is a branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The line again follows the banks of the seemingly ever-present Columbia River, and passed quite close to the famous Bonnington Falls and ra})ids, through magnificent scenery. These falls (or rather an in- finitesimal drop from them) are being utilized by a company for the electric lighting of Rossland, '%tMMi, SPOKANE TO VANCOUVER 43 the some fifteen miles distant, and a big power-house is being: erected. A curious incident occurred as we were going at a good rate, the track being level, with the forest on either side. Two horses had strayed on the line, and frightened at the unearthly shrieking of our engine's double whistle, galloped madly up the permanent way in front of us. Without slackening speed, and with our whistle blowing continuously, we continued on for several miles, the horses meanwhile going strong, and the engine-driver evidently expecting them to leave the track and get into the forest. This, however, they had not the instinct to do, and both were becoming visibly fatigued. The excitement on the train was great. Suddenly, as we were gradually coming up with them, down they both fell. They had fallen through a trestle bridge, and had become jammed right across the line. The train pulled up, and we all expected to find them seriously injured, if not killed; but, curiously enough, they were scarcely scratched, though, of course, absolutely helpless in their strange position. Luckily there were some men working close by, and there ii li I: .m fii ■ »iJ( i U r 44 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE II 5' W y i^ I ,!■ ;l was a supply of rope handy, so it Avas merely a question of how long it would take to get them extricated and hauled off the line. After some difficulty, this was accomplished, and we were once more able to proceed. We were only an hour late, but this did not deter the conductor of the train from trying his new Winchester rifle from the window of one of the cars, and stopping the engine while he ran back to have a shot at a fine eaule we had passed. (Time was made for slaves, not for trains on a branch line of the Canadian Pacific Railway !) In spite of its portentous name, Slocan City is but an insignificant little town that has not, up to the present, fulfilled the pronuse of its birth. It is })icturesquely situated at the head of the lake, and may yet turn out a place of some importance, if the mining claims in the immediate neighbourhood do any good. Here may be said to commence the zone of galena, or silver-lead, which has made the fame of the Slocan district. A roomy, stern-wheel steamer, belonging to the Canadian Pacific Railway, plies on the Slocan lake i ife il . tM*Mi..t ItiUtllmtakMtltdt SroKANJ'J TO VANCOUVEli 45 jukI coiint'cts the Sandon and Nakusp lines witli tlie Xelson and Slocan branch. It is a pleasant trip of about three hours. The water, which is intensely blue and of enormous deptii, the hij^li mountains rising precipitously on either side, ^ivc SLOGAN CITV, this comparatively small lake a more impressive aspect than the Arrow Lakes. The fishing here is, I learned, excellent, big trout being frequently caught. Every kind of suitable fly or artificial bait can be purchased in Slocan Cit}'. I was shown ^ 1 i , k !,^ll I iiiiil W^^^iMunaeb^ti'jtf ■"^ i I > I" ! I ! 4G FliOM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE a inarvell(3usly light and ingenious steel rod which almost tempted me to break my journey for a day. A lot of sport for a rifle or gun can be obtained round the lake, big game being reputed more plentiful liere than in any other part of British Columbia. In fact, the grizzlies abound to such an extent, in the spring, that prospectors have actually been driven out of their camps at times by the brutes — one place in particular, called Wilson Creek, having a specially bad reputation for this. I was told a curious story about a miner in one of the neighbouring mountains, where he and a mate were working a prospecting tunnel. He was returning to work one day, and had got some distance in the tunnel, when he heard footsteps close behind him. Thinking it was his friend, he pi*,id no attention for the moment ; when, receiving no reply to a question he put, he turned round and discovered to his horror that a huge bear was following him. To throw pick, shovel, and every- thing handy at the brute whilst yelling lustily was the impulse of the moment. At the unexpected reception the bear stood up, and in so doing struck its head sharply against the top of the tunnel, at SPOKANE TO VANCOUVER 47 which, with a growl of rage and pain, it turned round and quickly disappeared. We stopped over at a little place called Silverton, near which are some good silver-lead mines, having a wish to visit the famous " Galena Farm," a mine recently brought out in England with a huge capital, and in which I am somewhat unfortunately interested. I thought I might as well, whilst so near, have a look at my property. I spent the night in a really comfortable hotel considering the size of the place, the evening being enlivened by a series of free fights amon/.^st a crowd of miners in the bar, which considerably helped to pass away the time. We took the next day's boat for Roseberry, a town site at the end of the lake, where rail is taken for Sandon. , The town site, though located and cleared some little time back, has not been taken up as yet, and presented a dreary appearance — a " hotel," store, and one well-built dwelling-house constituted the entire town ! It was a particularly interesting;, trip up to Sandon, although I was beginning to get pretty well satiated with scenery by this time. \r, I i i 'I. -■ .' m •wr 'ill }' *^ I w 'f ^ ii ii ■ Jt Si ' ] '■ ;'l ■ (■ • i' i'! 3 1 ■1* ' ij 48 FliOM El/STON TO KLONDIKJ'J Tiic line has the steepest gradients I believe possible, live per cent, in many places, necessitating the placing of locomotives in the rear of the train. Of the many places I visited in British Columbia, 'i! TllK .MAIN sri'vKKT, SANUON, ISOli. Sandon was undoubtedly the most pleasing from an artistic point of view. In. fact, f do not remember ever having seen a quainter place. It is built some 3000 feet up, in a narrow gulch not 300 yards in Avidth, and is positively hemmed in by the sides of the high mountains, which Ijavc all SPOKANE TO VANCOUVER 49 ,!'^:l all the appearance of overhanging it. Its one steep, narrow street reminds one so completely of Switzerland, that it is almost astonishing to find Eti^lish names written over the shops. This TIIK M AIX STItKKC, '^ANDOV, ISltM. l'A( !v TUAIN AIIOIT TO SI'Altl' lOlt TIIK MINi;s. wonderfiil little town ii . 50 FROM EU8T0N TO KLONDIKE difficulties, in an incredibly short space of time. The fortunate locator of the enormously valuable town site,, a Mr. J. M. Harris, who is also a big shareholder in the Reco Mine close by, told me he was laughed at Avhen he asked a friend to give him half the recording fee, of a few dollars, for the location, and so share it with him. He therefore paid the whole amount himself It is impossible to estimate at the present moment what this half share would have been worth. It goes without saying that the prosperity of a mining town depends entirely on the success of the mines on which it lives, so to speak. Such being the case, the future of Sandon appears assured. It is said that one can actually see from the town, and within a short distance, mines that have paid a bigger su n in dividends than all the gold and copper mines of British Columbia put together. This sounds a bold statement, but when one learns that over a million dollars was paid in 1897, it seems more credible. Amongst the richest of these mines may be enumerated the Payne, Reco, Idaho, and Slocan Star, all of which are (juite close to the town. SPOKANE TO VANCOUVER 51 Snow was, however, still deep on the trails leading to them, so I was unable to pay any of them a visit, and my time was limited unfortunately ; but results proved more than anything I could have been shown in the mines themselves. This is dis- tinctly " a poor man's country " as compared to the Ivootenay, most of the big Slocan mines having paid their way from the very first day they were opened up. In fact, it is said a child could dig the ore out in most places. I was informed that the bill for blasting-powder in the district was curiously small in comparison to other parts of the country. In spite of the depreciation of silver, and the fact that the Government imposes a fairly heavy tax on both silver and lead here, exceedingly handsome profits are made out of the Sandon mines, and it is stated they could be worked to pay well even were silver to still further fall in value. As befits so rich a town, Sandon is well provided with hotels. At the one I })ut up at, the Goodenough, I had a room that, for comfort and furniture, quite e(|ualled the one I occupied at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York. It was inoedible tliat barely three TT r '! fi! i ' 1 If)!) lbs , flour. 5 lbs. tea. ;io ,, bacon. 5 „ salt. ;iO „ beans. 3 ,, baking powder. 17 „ ham. 2 do/, small tins sardines. 20 ,, dried beef. 2 „ canned meat, pud 50 „ dried fruits. ding, etc. 10 „ rice. 4 jars jam. 20 „ sugar. 2 doz. tins milk. 10 „ coflee. 1 „ soups (dried). 10 „ butter. 1 „ maggis bouillon. L.^, VANCOUVER TO SKAOUAY 59 liiking I (loz. bovrll rations. 1 gallon keg Hudson Bay rum 1 bottio old brandy. 10 X 12 light canvas tent. Cooking utensils. 1 gross matches. Tin dutch oven for bread. 1 gold pan. 1 shovel. I pick. 1 saw. 1 hammer. 1 axe. Nails. ( 'anvas bath, bucket, and basin. Burroughs and Wellcome ^ledi- cine Case, containing various drugs in tabloid form. 2 VVolseloy valises with cork mattresses and camel-hair sleeping-bags. Mosquito curtains and head dresses — " Hills " mosquito lotion. Waterprdiif ground sheet. 2 suits of clothes with Norfolk jackets — one rough tweed, the other (iabardine. 3 Jaeger flannel shirts apiece. Jaeger flannel underclothing. Gauntlet mosquito gloves. 1 pair l)rown field boots each. 1 ,, rubber wading boots. 1 „ ordinary rough shooting. 2 pocket filters. 1 12-bore gun and cartridges. A Kodak camera. A fishing-rod with tackle, com- prising flies, si)0on-bait, land- ing-net, etc. Plenty of spare pipes, and 5 lbs. tobacco in tins. »< Whilst, besides all these articles, the many small items, without which no Englishman considers it possible to travel (however short a distance), helped to make up what I ventured to consider a very complete outfit; and it was satisfactory to find, on the completion of the journey, that we had not brought any too much, whilst where we had a surplus, as was the case with flour, beans, dried 1 1- i ill ■i 3 * 1" J JH] f ' MM ()() FROM KU>STON TO KLONDIKE III IVuit, etc., wo disposed of them easily at veiy liandsome profit. It will be noted that our ])riiicipal item of food was the national dish of the country, the homely bacon and beans. I was fortunate in gettino- all my preparations completed in time to catch the Tartar, as the attractions of Vancouver had soon been exhausted, and T was anxious to push on with my journey. At the last moment I was recipient of the two following invitations, which eventually proved of great value. One was from the Chilcoot Aerial Tramway Company, who courteously offered me the free use of their line for the transportation of my canoe and baggage from Dyea to Lake Lindcr- man, with a prior right of way to enable me to get through ahead of anything that might be waiting at their depot ; the other was from the management of a line of steamers which were beinix constructed on Lake Bennett, and were intended to ply between that point and Dawson City. It was not certain at the time, so the management explained to me, whether the steamers would be ready on my arrival at Lake Bennett. If any one of them was, I was offered transportation for my party and L^. VANCOUVER TO SKA QUAY ()! bajjijaixo the entire length of their route. As iiiav 1)0 imagined, both of these invitations were invalu- able, as will be seen later. Owing to the steam- boat line not being in readiness, I was only able to avail myself of the " Tramway " pass. These two invitations were, however, sufficient to prove to me the amount of energy and capital which is being expended in order to make the route I had decided to go by the most po[>ular one. The distance from Vancouver to Skaguay is 900 miles, the time occupied on the trip being usually a little over four days, which includes a stay of a few hours at Victoria. For small steamers, the route taken is most delightful, passing through narrow fjords and close to numberless islands, the water the whole way being so sheltered as to be always as calm as a mill-pond. Our vessel, being of high tonnage, was forced to take the open sea route a great part of the way. Luckily, there was a dead calm, and the time passed very pleasantly. We were a very small but select crowd, and all bound for the capital of the new Eldorado. The steamship Tartar, which, together with her sister ship the Athenian, has been purchased by ] ■ (' f; I I! 1 ij m I ' '• 1 «j|] 1 1 i hm i i F mi |i , i l i JiW l Ulp i w i .j f ;. B .Jt . j aiy mmmmma i I '• 62 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE the Cana(ri>^,n Pacific Railway from tlie Union Lino, is the oiT^fi famous mail-) oat on the ( 'ape Line. It seeui.s a stran^'e irony of fate that this tine liner, which has carried so many Soutli African millionaires and passe(^ through so many vicissi- ---•<-.*» -W^', THi; SCnOONKR '-lIKltA. 't I ; ? i tudes, should end thus on this dreary Arctic coast route, a)~id we w^ere all a[;"reed that she is far too oQod for the work. However, tlie accommodntion was all that could he desired, so it was hardly i'air to find fault. The voyage was uneventiul, except that we passed a schooner becalmed and short of VANCOUVEli TO SKAOUAY 63 of provisions, and which tiii-necl out to be the Ifcra, over two months overdue at Seattle and lonu: ijiven up as lost. We gave them some beef, etc., and left them still whistling for tlie breeze that would not come to waft them home. The coast scenery began to change noticeably after passing Vancouver Islanrs hce Indian village appeared in its primitive condition and where the houses, built on piles, extend over the muddy fiat a great distance, with numerous rough canoes drawn up on the beach around. TOTEM POLE, INDIAX (il! VVi:-\AI!l>, AVItANdTJ.. A curious feature of the place is tin "Totem" l>oles which aliound in the native cpiartcr. These "]i(>les" are enormous trunks of tribes carved with the most fantastic desiofus — human heads, croblins ^^1 I :t I 1 :) I I ^ 1 1 ■■ ^il {III GG FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE birds, animals, etc. — and showing a sentiment of proportion and a sort of weird talent that is thoroughly in keeping with this strange place. Many Indians sat at the doors of their houses smoking stolidly, and eying us w^ith absolute indifference as we wandered round and did the sights. One wonders what they must think of their solitude so rudely disturbed by this sudden inrush of " pale faces," which, as it were, threatens their very existence in these parts. Wrangel, of course, presents all the usual features of a new American town, utter lawlessness being its principal characteristic. Shooting was of frequent occurrence and passed unchecked, and, judging from the ill-favoured looking ruffians one saw hanging about the numerous gambling saloons, it was easy to imagine what would happen if one fell into their hands. On remarking this to one of our companions from the ship^ — we had gone in a big party — he informed us that Wrangel was "not in it" with Skaguay, which liad the unenviable reputation of containini^' the biggest crowd of " toughs " on American soil. Still, Wrangel was not without its amusing side, ^ i VANCOUVER TO SKAQUAY 67 as we found out when we visited its "Opera House " — a canvas-coveied frame-shanty in a back block, and where a sort of music-hall enter- tainment was in progress. The place was con- structed with " boxes " on the upper floor, where between the turns, the fair (or otherwise) " artistes " congregated. Our appea-rance created no little commotion amongst them, for it was evidently refjarded as an influx of business, and we were immediately escorted to the ''best box" by quite a bevy of songstresses and dancers of various ages, tliough mostly on the shady side of thirty. The ladies at these shows get a j^ercentage on all drinks sold through their endeavours, so it may be imagined we were not suffering from thirst whilst in the establishment. The appearance of the auditorium certainly did not i-ecall memories of juiything one had seen anywhere l)eforo. It was evidently not a *' big night," for the audience was not a full one, and several gentlemen in the stalls were \y'mg fast asleep full length on the floor, whilst others in the boxes sat in their shirt-sleeves and with their legs dangling over the edge, and itheiwise enjoying themselves in their own \ VM 08 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE ] il individual way, regardless of what is prudishly called propriety in England. There was no attempt at scenery, and the performances were particu- larly feeble, so we soon tired of it, in spite of the blandishments of the fair houris surrounding us, and made our way back to the Tartar, which was due to sail in the early hours of the morning. Skaguay was reached some four and twenty hours later. The harbour is quite enclosed between high hills, and can scarcely be seen from the outside. The town itself is built on a good tiat site some sliort distance back, and is connected witli the landing-stage by several very long wooden piers. It presented a very picturesque and aniiiiated appearance the morning of our arrival, as several steamers were unloading and many people were about. Work on the wharves and piers v w.^. evidently being diligently prosecuted, and everything l)eing put in readiness for the t'ftilwo}' which is shortl;, to bo started. The town itself is a typical specimen of what the American can do in record time. In fact, it is ditHcult to realiz*' that it is barely four montlis old. The stvuuts are well graded, sidewalks laid, m\(\ it has VANCOUVER TO SKAOUAY 69 the telephone and electric lighting. It has every indication of becoming an important business centre in the near future. I was told a story in coanectiou with the town site which is interesting, if only as serving to prove the lawlessness of these far-away corners II SKAUUAY. of the great United States and the ajtparent apathy in Washington of the officials connected with their administration. It appetirs the present town site was staked and located by one William Moore somo ten years ago. All the necessary steps were taken to ensure his rightful tenure ; surveys were made, the improvements, and, in fact, all t„ 'm n % 'W £ ,:■ FMOM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE done that the law demands, as is proved by the fact that documents to this effect exist in triplicate and are registered at Sitka and Washington. In spite of all these precautions, no sooner did the town site of Skaguay show signs of becoming really a town of some importance than a band of land pirates arrived, headed by a noted scoundrel named Soapy Smith, and actually seized the entire property of Mr. Moore, together with all buildings, etc. These thieves then actually started a town council, of which they constituted themselves members, laid out the town, sold lots, and dealt with the ground as though it was really theirs. It seems well nigh incredible that such a state of affairs could be possible under United States Government, but so it is. Moore has, of course, placed the matter in the hands of competent lawyers^ and all the documents were, together with counsels' opinion, shown to me. Up to the present, however, nothing has resulted, and, with the roguer}^ and corruption in the place, it seems doubtful how soon it will be settled, or what the result will be in either case. It goes without saying that the property, which comprises l(iO VANCOUVER TO SKAGUAY 71 acres, is at the present of great and growing value. Moore himself estimates it at 55-">OO,00O. This is but one instance of the lawlessness prevailing in Skaguay, where, up to the present, no attempt at enforcing law or order has been made. Strangers are frequently held up in broad daylight and openly robbed, and a foul murder of a woman had taken place the night before our arrival, and the murderer, who was known, was ■walking about the place unmolested. Half the Americans we spoke with made no secret of their regret that the town was not under the English flag, because then they would be sure their property would be protected from the ruffians hanging round the neighbourhood. Since writing the above, I learn from a San Francisco paper that vigorous measures have been taken to end this disgraceful state of atiairs. The gang of ruffians, which had been practi- cally holding Skaguay under a sort of reign of terror, has been effectually broken up, and the leader. Soapy Smith, has paid with his life for his many crimes. The killing of this arch-desperado occurred at an indignation meeting held by the H il' i i l-iL I ri 'i M I ... (If a rr ij I ^ I ^ f 'i: ■ f t 72 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE law-abiding portion to di.scuss the latest act of lawlessness of the band — a returned Klondiker having been " held up " and robbed of some $4000. Soa})y Smith, on hearing of this meeting, became mad with rage, and rushed down to the wharf, where it was being held, positively armed to the teeth, thinking to overawe the crowd as usual. But he was out of his reckoninof at last. He was met by an old enemy of his, one Fi-ank Reid. Some free shooting immediately ensued, during which both men were hit. Smith was killed instantly, while Reid lingered in the hospital for about two weeks, when he died. Immediately after the affi'ay there was a " round up " in the middle of the main street. A vigilance committee was formed to enforce law and order; then the entire town was surrounded by determined citizens armed with rifles, and a regular " man hunt " was started to capture every one of the Soapy Smith gang, alive or dead. This was successfully accom- plished, and in a short time not one of the black- guards was at large in the place. Many curious and almost incredible facts have since transpired as to the methods of Smith and II VANCOUVER TO SKAOUAY 73 his gang. It appears that his favourite scheme was to put up bogus business i)reniises in differeat parts of the town. The usual signs and insignia of trade gave to these places an air of respecta- bility and genuineness which was calculated to completely deceive the new-comer. Some of these buildings would be called " Information Bureaux," others "Pack-train Offices," "Cut-rate Ticket Offices for Dawson," and so forth. What- ever they were, it goes without saying that the advantages offi3red were greater than at the actual business houses of the town. On the arrival of a steamer, Smith would detail certain of his gang to be on the wharf to pick out likely " pigeons " amongst the new arrivals. In fact, so cleverly planned was this conspiracy of thieves, that often there would be one or two members of the gang on board who had made the trip to Victoria and back with the sole object of making acquaintances amongst the unsuspecting passengers. (Such an incident actually happened on the Tartar.) Once on shore, the victim would, of cjurso, be easily induced by his newly found fr. ends to give the preference to one of the so-calleic l»areaux, if he I*-*; il H ^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. "V 1.0 I.I 1.25 '-m iiiM '" *^ IIIIIM ? *- IIIM 11= U IIIIII.6 V^ ^^^ % ;^^^ .>' ^^.vV.>" /^ /y ^ *v ¥' '# 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation ^:%>> pb"^^ '% 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY 14580 (716) 872-4S03 ■ o ;* ^A i 1 1.1 \ i 74 FHOM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE had freight to pack or required information as to route, etc. Once in the office and surrounded by the gang, Soapy Smith, who was from all accounts as smooth-tongued and plausible a villain as ))ossible, would conduct negotiations. Then when /dl was arranged, a small deposit would be asked for — as a sign of good faith, "just to prove that tht business would not be given elsewhere." As the unsuspecting victim took out his pocket- book or purse, one of the gang would snatch it from him. Immediately one of the bystanders would pretend to get very indignant, and swear he would not st ^d by and see a man robbed. A scuffle would ensue, in the course of which the unfortunate victim would be " accidentally " knocked down, and perhaps severely injured, and by the time he had recovered himself, the man who had robbed him of course had j^fot away. This sort of thing took place time after time in broad daylight, and as the entire town, tis I have described, was practically in the possession of this gang, no redress whatever was possible, the United States Government not having deemed it necessary to take steps to represent law and \ VANCOUVEB TO SKAQUAY 75 order in the place. At last, however, flesh and blood would stand it no longer, and the citizens have accomplished what their Government should have done for them. From the latest information it appears that the town was under military rule, a detachment of United States troops under Cap- tain Yoatman having tardily, though opportunely, arrived on the scene. Skaguay, which is practi- cally the gate to the Klondike, may therefore now have a chance of becoming a prosperous and peaceful town. \\\ M i m i w I>YEA. n CHAPTER VI. FROM SKAGUAY TO THE SUMMIT OF THE CHILCOOT PASS. Skaguay to Dyea — Dyea to Canyon City — Tlie Trail — Our travelling companions — Cafiyon City — Sheep Camp — The Chilcoot Pass Aerial Tramway — The ascent of the Chilcoot Pass — Imjjressions of the scenery — The summit — The North-Wcst Mounted Police camp. We only remained long enough to get our baggage through the customs, then took the ferry boat for Dyea, six miles distant, a pleasant little run Our The oot The Ige for un FROM SKAOUAT TO THE CHILCOOT PASS 77 through lake-like scenery into a completely land- locked bay on which stands the town. The water is so shallow that carts come some distance into the water, and back right up against the boat that lands passengers from the ferry. Dyea consists of one long, dusty, straggling street of wooden and canvas shanties, and is nearly two miles in length. It can boast of a fairly good hotel for a place of its description ; in fact, it is reputed the best north of Victoria. We were not long afterwards in realizing that this was no fictitious reputation, and often had occasion to wish for even its mcazen eep pre; as e- the ols er, the my [old Hart ; but he was for pushing on as (piickly as possible, so argued that if sledges could get across we could, and at any rate he intended to try, as it was only 3^ miles to Lindernian, and he was ready for bed. We followed him to the edge of the water to see how he would get across to the dry ice, and intending to follow if he did not get very wet. The water was only on the surface and he managed to get through a short distance without much difficulty ; then seeing a tree- trunk lying on the surface near him, he made for that as a next move as the water was getting deeper. Just as he reached it and was in the act of stepping on to it, the ice under him gave way, and he went into the water backwards, getting completely drenched. It was luckily not more than three feet deep, so he got out easily and on to the trunk ; then without hesita- tion, and evidently regardless of what might happen next, he plunged and squelched through the rotten ice till he reached the track and scrambled on to it. Standing there dripping wet in the freezing air of the early dawn, with no means whatever of drying his soaked clothes, H i 1)8 FJiOM JW8T0N TO KLONDIKE ho looked a pitiable object, and we botli felt heartily sorry for him. He called out to us to follow him, that it was "nothing;" but we did not feel like taking a cold bath just then, and told him so, whereupon he said that he intended hurrying across as quickly as possible so as not to catch cold standing about, and laughingly adding he would meet us at Linderman, he strode quickly off. We looked at each other wondering what was the best thing to do. The situation was an un- pleasant one. We had been walking with scarcely any rest since two o'clock the previous day, twelve good hours, and here we were stranded at day- break at a place where all was snow and ice, and not a sign of any other trail to our destination but the one across the lake, and not a soul in sight to direct us. Harris, whose teeth were chattering with the cold, his legs not being dry yet, was all this while muttering something about it " not being good enough," and naming the fabulous sums he would have given to be back in his luxurious chambers in Down Street, Piccadilly, when sud* denly Providence came to our rescue in the shape ClULCOOT PASS TO LINDLUMAN 01) ng ill \ff le lus )e of two men with dog - sledges. Tliey were " i'leighters," and immediately an idea occuned to me, and, going up to the leader, I asked him it* he would put us both across the lake on the sledges for a consideration. After looking at the ice for a few minutes, he replied that if it could be done he would. Both he and his mate went forward and cautiously probed the rotten ice and water, then fetching axes from the sledges, they went and cut down some small trees near, and mado a sort of impromjjtu cor- duroy road across the wet part, whilst avoiding as much as possible the deeper water. Then one sledge went across first to test the work, the dogs going very gingerly indeed, and taking ridiculously careful steps. They knew what they were about evidently, and what it meant to have a heavy sledge sink whilst they were har- nessed to it. However, it got across safel}^ so the man told us to sit on the next one and he would take us across the lake for a dollar, and over we went without further incident. It was certainly very cold sitting in he cramped position necessary for keeping one's balance on a m i ^% t ! ■ i 100 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE I! Hi lliii (Jog-sledge, but it gave us a few minutes' welcome rest. The dog.^ were of all sorts and conditions, from the Indian dog of the country to the ordinary mongrel retriever, most of them in splendid condi- tion, and with shoulders wonderfully developed from constant pulling. Poor brutes ! they got little but kicks and blows in return for their hard work, for, as a rule, their owners treat them with ferocious cruelty when they fancy they are lagging. Yet in spite of all they are gentle and affectionate brutes, except amongst themselves, for when not working they seem to live for fighting. It was no great distance across the lake, and we soon reached the opposite bank. The ice had not broken here, so we got ashore without further mishap, and hurried along the trail again, hoping to make our destination in a very short time, as we both felt an unconquerable feeling of fatigue coming over us, and which was ditiicult to shake off, a sort of impulse to lie down and sleep any- where. But there was nothing for it but to plod steadily on. The track, after leaving the lake, appeared to ' 'h,, ,^r-' GHILGOOT PASS TO LINDERMAN 101 mg lod to our tired feet to become worse and worse, at one time deep snow, then rock after rock, over which we had to clamber, Harris meanwhile becoming more and more unconsciously humorous with fatigue, if such a condition is physically possible, and was evidently mad with himself for being here at all. At lenofth this mutterinfr to himself resulted in his offering as high as £50 if he were only in bed in the " hotel " at Linderman. Poor chap, his hopes were destined to be rudely shattered when we eventually reached the so-called " hotel ; " but of this anon. Why the last two miles of a journey to a })lace one does not know always appear the longest is mexplicable. In our case they apparently trebled themselves, and, although we were lucky in meeting two ijenial fellows who were ijoino- our way, the distance from Deep Lake to Linderman seemed to us considerably undermeasured. At last, on reaching the top of a long hill, there lay stretched at our foot, though some distance below, a large placid sheet of water, looking like a huge piece of rose-coloured silk spread between the mountains. At the point nearest w SSBi 102 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE us on a promontor}'^ of flat shore was a huge conglomeration of white tents, looking like a fl^ock of seagulls on a distant beach. This was Linderman. I.INOEKMAN. I • ( 10.3 ) ; i l! i CHAPTER VIII. LINDEUMAN AND BENNETT. The " hotel " at Lindorman — First experience of a bunk-honso — Boat-building — A wonderful scene — The coitp iVml Lin- derman — From Lindernian to Bennett — Bennett — Siiooting the rapids — Arrival of our baggage — Our Jap cook — Packing the canoe — The start for Dawson. Dotted in and about the tents and along the shore were numerous strange-looking yellow objects. As we got nearer these took definite shapes, and I saw they were boats in various stages of construction. It certainly was a curious and withal weird sight, this sleeping city of tents, for at least 10,000 people must have been encamped there. Many hopes lay dormant in that confused mass of white canvas. How many were to be realized ? A somewhat steep climb downhill brought us into the town itself. All was deserted. It was -.1 104 FBOM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE I I 'i ') III ill li ■ half-past three in the morning, and at that early hour few sensible pe'^ple are about even at Linder- man. Without delay we set about looking for the " Hotel Linderman" to which our friends of the road had directed us. After a little trouble we found it, a fairly large log cabin, but in vain we knocked and hammered at the door ; there was no response. They must have heard us, for we made enough noise to wake up the whole place. Then we tried another place oj)posite, a sort of big tent structure with a high-sounding name written over the door. Airain without success. We looked at each other wondering what to do. This was something we had certainly not bargained for. Just then a man came along, and, on my explaining our predica- ment, he volunteered to take us somewhere where we could get beds, and led us round to the back entrance of another canvas house called the " Dawson Hotel," and, knocking at the door, it was soon opened by a sleepy-looking, half-awakened individual, who said he had luckily just room for us. So in we went, delighted to be so near really going to bed at last; but our joy was soon over when we saw the interior. f ^ ' ' i LINDERMAN AND BENNETT 105 It was a very large place, and down the centre and reaching up to the slant of the roof was a hig structure with four double sections of four tiers of bunks, these bunks being formed by canvas stretched fx'om side to side. Along one side was INTIOHIOIl OK TIIK I.IN'DKItMAN nrNK-IIOfSi:, AM) (iNK (II IIIK I-ADY l,(H>(iKI!S. another half section, making in all foj'ty-eight sleeping-places, all of which were occupied exce})t the two we had just secured. In one corner of this bunk-room was the kitchen, or rather a place where cooking went on, and alongside it three or li.' ! 15< 'i; 106 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE >i ii] four iron basins on a nanow shelf represented the toilet accommodation. Beyond the kitchen was the dining-room, with a sort of high counter like one sees in the cheapest workmen's eating-houses in England. Over the filthy floor round the bunks were scattered boots in all stages of wear, whilst on the woodwork hung dirty garments that would have in most cases reflected discredit on an average coal-heaver in London. I did not dare to catch Harris's eye for a moment, for I knew what he would say ; but I will confess that in all my varied experiences of roughing it all over the world, I never struck anything so utterly repellent as this Linderman bunk-house. I learned after- wards it was perhaps a shade better than the average of these places, and which are the sole hotels of the country at present. It was no time for making compliments, so there was nothing for it but to turn in, as the proprietor was evidently anxious to get back to his bed, and was waiting for his money for the night's acco) lodation. So we paid him the fifty cents each asked, and in return got two doubtful- looking blankets apiece. To climb up and throw LINDERMAN AND BENNETT 107 ourselves into our bunks without troubling even to undress was the work of a few seconds, so tired were we, and almost instantly we were in the land of sleep. The sun was high up when we woke, so we had the place nearly to ourselves, most of the lodgers being away at their various vocations. We had a sort of a " lick and a promise " wash, for the towels were on a par with the rest of the establishment, and it was impossible to get others even by paying for them. The proprietor, in fact, seemed annoyed and surprised at my suggesting they were not quite so clean as they ought to be, mentioning somewhat testily that I was the first of his lodgers to complain, and adding, as though to convince me of the injustice of my demand, that over thirty people had already used them. After a rough breakfast, we strolled round the town. I certainly was prepared for a busy scene, but certainly nothing to equal what was before me. It almost baffles description. All along the shore and to some distance 'ip the side Mils, boat-build- ing was being carried on with quite feverish activity, and the sound of a steam saw-mill, whip- I -' 108 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE III saws, and hammering and planing, resounded on all sides. Boats there were in all imaginable shapes and sizes, from big unwieldy barges to tiny craft that reminded one of the paper boat dear to child- hood. It was, indeed, a wonderful sight. Many of the boats were being constructed with great skill, and were evidently the production of prac- tical boat-builders, whilst others were little better than fiat open boxes fitted with thwarts and thole-pins. There was a remarkable resemblance between the boats, as though they were mostly built on one stock pattern. Curiously enough, not a single one had a rudder, nor do I remember seeing one anywhere on the journey. The lumber for all this building was brought from the neighbouring hills, and could be pur- chased all ready cut in planks, if the men could afford it anig waggons splendidly horsed, which were constantly passing heavily laden with goods newly arrived on the trail. On the shore of the lake several large and powerful stern-wheel passenger ^■•^:^^^#:I it ' 9 ■'■ir'-^' 'M B»-*" 4. -iot W.:»i '^ * ISKNNKTT. steamers were being rapidly put together, the different parts having been sent up in sections. Many steam saw-mills were hard at work. The beach was packed several i 5 i; ■ < I'i ■ |j :■■; ^' c 1 : * i' ! k 120 FROM EUSTON Tu KLONDIKE \m People in Bennett were far too occupied with their own affairs to look at such trifles. The weather was lovely, the sun blazing in a cloudless sky, and not a breath of air stirring. The placid, unruffled surface of the lake reflected the snow- capped mountains as in a mirror. We were a bit cramped and hampered with the baggage at first, but soon settled down and made ourselves comfortable. I took the sculls and started rowing, and was delighted to find how easily and lightly the canoe went* r^ ( 121 ) CHAPTER IX. LAKE BENNETT TO LAKE MARSH. An exciting race — The J, B, Qoddard — Lake Tagish Police Camp -Captain Strickland — A gang of murderers — Miners' licences — Afternoon scene on Lake Marsh — First expe- rience of the Alaska mosquitoes — A dismal camping- ground. Many boats surrounded us as we quickly pro- ceeded and caught up with them one by one, the lumbering, awkwardly built craft having no chance against our well-constructed canoe, with Boss deftly steering with a paddle. In the far dio:-ance, some miles ahead, we could distinctly hear the measured thump of the pistons of a small stern-wheel steamer towing two big barges, I rowed steadily on for some time, till suddenly Harris remarked that he thought we were gradually catching her up. This put an idea into my head, a sort of recollection of the Thames. i » * I! m vi i 122 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE V{ W\ ij The heat was intense, and to exert one's self in the middle of the day struck me as being idiotic and unnecessary. Why not catch up the steamer and ask her to give us a tow ? I said nothing, but put all my strength into my rowing, and for the next hour worked like a nigger. Now I was undoubtedly slowly but surely gaining on my goal. But it was terribly slow work, and the shortest rest made one lose a lot of ground. In vain did the others endeavour to persuade me give in. I knew what it meant if we could catch her. For three solid hours I rowel with all my strength, gaining perhaps at the rate of one foot in six, till at last we got within three hundred yards. Then Frank begged to be allowed to take the sculls. I was nearly done after so prolonged a spurt, as may be imagined, so, as there was no difficulty in our changing seats, I consented, and he started off like a little Samson, and very soon we were abroast of the steamer. After some little di(ficulty, as she had two large lighters full of sheep on either side of her, and there was a strong undercurrent running round them, we managed to hook on, half a dozen men LAKE BENNETT TO LAKE MARSH 123 Irge md ind len on board looking on stolidly, but offering no assist- ance. I jumped aboard and made my way to the captain, who was steering, and asked him it' we might hang on for a little while. He demurred at first, saying he was already late, but eventually consented. So we made fast, and had lunch, which we enjoyed immensely, since we were losing no time. Afterwards Harris and I, armed with a fiask of whisky and some big cigars, went up and had a long chat with the captain, which ended in our becoming so friendly thai he gave us permis- sion to remain in tow as far as he was going, which turned out to be Lake Tagish, some fifty odd miles on. This was a splendid^ lift, and I felt well rewarded for my obstinacy in catching him up. Although not making an excessive speed, as may be imagined, the J. B. Goddard kept pounding along at a good steady pace, which was safer for our heavily laden canoe than if she had been a fast boat. The sheep she was carrying — for apart from the lighters her hold was also full — were destined for Dawson. They had been brought in over the Skaguay trail, and were to remain at Tagish for I f j 111 I: * 1! 'in 11^4 FROM EUtSTON TO KLOi^DlKE ■^ a few days, to give them a chance of recovering from the effects of their long journey before proceeding any further. Their owner, who was on board, hoped to make a big profit on them, but the risk was very great necessarily. We did not reach Tagish till past midnight, and at this time we were beginning to get very cold and cramped after sitting so long in the canoe. A strong wind had sprung up, and the spray from the wheel was thoroughly wetting everything. We had had no opportunity of getting anything solid to eat since lunch, as we did not want to cast loose in order to go ashore and cook. The " lift " we ware getting was far too precious and well worth any attendant discomfort, so by the time we readied the steamer's destination we were simply starved with hunger and cold. We had come exactly 56 miles, not so bad for the first day. Tagish is a station of the North -West Mounted Police on the river of that name, which extends from Tagish to Marsh Lake. I had a letter to the officer in charge. Captain Strickland, so had decided to stop over and present it. Moreover, it was here we were to get our miners' licences. I I I i I IKE BENNETT TO LAKE MARSH 125 The daylight, as we were gradually getting further north, had continued increasing, and there was now but a little twilight, but no night. It was broad daylight when we landed at about 1 a.m., and set the boy to work to light a fire and get us some hot coffee while we put Uf ihe tent. It was not an ideal camping-ground, but we were too sleepy to waste time choosing another, and, after a hasty supper, turned in without delay. Next morning we went up to the police camp to see Captain Strickland. The station consisted of half a dozen log-built cabins, and was also the office of the district gold commissioner and customs officer. Captain Strick- land representing all ^h3se vocations. We spent the whole morning on the place, which was crowded with people waiting to get licences, and were shown four Indian prisoners who were in custody on a charge of murdering a prospector some months ago. It appeared that the murdered man and a friend were proceeding leisurely down the river in their boat when they were suddenly fired upon from the bank by the prisonei's. One of the men fell overboard riddled with bullets, but :, 1- 1 1 '. 1 i i .< i 1 I J m '(.' f^ im\ il s i j 126 FROM EU8T0N TO KLONDIKE his friend, though severely wounded, escaped as though by a miracle, and managed to reach a neighbouring camp and give the news. Im- mediately a party of six miners set out on the tracks of the Indians, and followed them for nearly six hundred miles, when at last they came up with them as they rejoined their tribe. These brave men then actually held up the entire tribe for several days, whilst they sent one of their number to the nearest police camp to get fc,ssistance to arrest the murderers. This was eventually done, and the four wretches brought back here to be tried. They then confessed to their crime, saying they did it to get the food in the boat. That they will be hanged is only a matter of time. They were brought out of their cell for Vi's to take a photograph of them — four ordinary looking natives chained together hand and foot to a very heavy iron anvil, which, whenever they moved, had to be carried between them, a very necessary precaution considering their prison was only a log cabin. They appeared quite uncon- cerned at their position, and apparently treated the affair with the utmost indifference. LAKE BENNETT TO LAKE MAHSTT 127 We got our miners' licences here, which gave us the right to seek forgoltl anywhere in the Dominion and North-West Territories for a period of one year from date for the sum of $10 each. As we should soon be in the gold-bearing district, we both GUOrP OK aMntOKKKUS, rOMC'K CAMP, TAGISII. felt we might have a chance of staking out a couple of claims. We also had to jjet our boat refjistered here, the number we got being something in the third thousand. We got away after dinner and just as a good favourable breeze sprang up, so we hoisted our sail and bowled along merrily in vj: 11, . t nj 128 FROM EU8T0N TO KLONDIKE m ,■«. front of it, and soon reached Marsh Lake, a very long and broad expanse of water surrounded by I '1 ^2 1 > 1 vl- j J r.; 2 4 ^ ^ ? s| beautiful hills that reminded one of Scotland. The breeze gradually increased to a strong wind, before which we must have been running at a rate j\s ; i I 1! Ss s «i land, '^ind, rate LAKE BENNETT TO LAKE MARSH 129 of at least ten knots, the canoe behaving beautifully, and we were passing every boat. There must have been many hundreds, and all haearance, and caused us considerable aunoyiince. Mos^piito- K !-?4 4 \ h 130 FliOM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE iMlK'i net head-dresses came into general requisition on all sides, the effect produced in many instances being most curious and not a little weird, especially when black gauze was used. We had some of " Hill's " mosquito lotion, with which we spread our faces and necks and hands. It is an unpleasant oily mixture, which is, however, only efficacious against a few mosquitoes, but is without effect against the myriads in these regions. Standing or sitting in the smoke of a " smudge," i.t. fire made of green leaves, is the only real remedy. Camps were being pitched all along the river banks, and I noticed so many men fishing that I got out my rod and line and tried my luck for a couple of hours, but without success. We took supper on the boat as we drifted along, and when towards midnight we decided to halt for the night, the cold air had fortunately driven all the mosquitoes away for the moment. Our camping-ground was as dismal a spot as could well be imagined, being at the corner of a burnt-out forest. All was dead and black. Gaunt and twisted charcoal skeletons of fine trees swayed and creaked drearily in the '/i o i l\ r?i*'. \ LAKE BENNETT TO LAKE MARSH 1,33 night breeze; even the very grass and moss had been destroyed \v the ruthless element, and there was no sign of life anywhere. We should have moved further on, but it was so late, and this was at any rate dry, so we decided to make the best of it. ti lU FIWM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE CHAPTER X. FROM LA.KE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY. The (Vinon and White Horse Tivarnway — Miles Canon Rapids — The White Horse Rapids — Lake Lehargc— A bath under difficulties — Curious fishing experience — ^Weather- bound — Forty ^lile River — The commencement of the Yukon — Forest fires — Animal and l»ird life on the Yukon — The Five Finger Rapids — The Rink Rapids — Our daily life on tlie Yukon — A curious incident — Nearing our goal — Dawson at last. The river from this point became gradually very swift. We were approaching the Miles Caiion and White Horse Rapids, places marked as " very dangerous " in the maps. As we neared them we saw many boats moored along the banks, their occupants preferring to walk on ahead and have a good look before 'taking any chances," as the saying is in tiiese parts. A cou.ple of miles before the actual rapids begin there is a portage some 5^ miles in length, over which boats and baggage \k FROM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY 1:15 can be transported. A pole tramway with horse traction has recently been laid along it by the Canon and White Horse Ra])ids Tramway Company ; and for a comparatively small amount considering, all risk can thus be avoided. Many, r • jflBBf^^^^^Bt^'^1 §^^^M LOAUIXO TlIK CANOK ON TIIK TRAMWAY. however, whether through love of excitement, or more probably to save money, prefer to run the rapids, with the inevitable result that thirteen lives have been lost here this year alone. How many in previous years will never be known. That both these places are extremely dangerous fi ,i i.^1 ■v?| -?f li ^ ,]- 1 ■H f. ''r £« ,-5 ' • ' H '■It '■ *i'f| °;i it* w T VM\ FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE ^^ It ' and not worth the risk of losing one's outtit, and perhaps one's life also, is indisputable. There were many pilots about who, for the sum of $10, would undertake to run one's boat through, but as they would not guarantee to do so and not ship any water, I decided to avail myself of a courteous invitation given to me by the representative of the tramway company, to permit them to transport my canoe and baggage. This meant of course unloading everything, but there were lots of willing hands to assist ; and in a few minutes the canoe and all our belongings were safely packed on one of the trolleys and started off, whilst we walked round by the riverside to have a look at the rapids. Miles Caiion, as the first of them is called, is a deep, narrow gorge, about 600 yards in length, through which the river rushes at a terrific pace, a mass of foaming, swirling water, and with an awe- inspiring, roaring sound which is heard a long way off. There were quite a number of people waiting to see boats come along, so we sat down and watched for a few moments. We saw several good- size ones go through, and although they certainly I I 1 FROM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY 187 did so without accident, I felt I should not have cared to do it in our canoe. Several empty boats j)assed, and they appeared to run less^ risk of being smashed against the sides of the cafion than when THE MILES CANON KAi'IDS. there were occupants in them to steer their course. They were picked up lower down after passing the other rapids. There is a swift but comparatively quiet stretch of river between this W: \\l '»;i 188 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE and the Wliite Hor.se Rapids, thougli about mid- way, and right on the centre of the stream, there is a treacherous sort of gravel bar round which tlie current rushes madly. As we passed, a large raft with six men and two horses on board ran aground here, and got stuck hard and fast. How, if ever, they got off, I don't know, as there w^as no mcins of reaching them from the shore, and those coming down in boats could not possibly stop except at great risk. Let's hope they got off safely. As we gradually left the roar of the canon beliind us, w^e equally gradually heard ahead another, even greater, sound of rushing waters. This was the dreaded White Horse Rapids, of which one had heard and read so much. At first sight it does not impress so much as the canon, as the river here runs through rocky banks, which though steep, are not formidable. The actual rapids are nearly a mile in length, in one part the river plunging through a narrow passage of rocks, over which there is a very steep fall of several feet. This is the most dangerous part, and at the point, on our arrival, was gathered ' ■» SUOOTIXti Tilt; Wliri'K IIOKSK IJAI'IUS. l'- ii IP lif pf \W\^, •I ii III \ FROM LAKE MAESH TO DAWSON CITY 141 quite an audience to watch the boats come clown, waiting possibly for something to happen, though liad an accident occurred, not a soul could have done anything but look on, as no help was possible. All the principal points of vantage were crowded, and I saw many women; the ubiciuitous photo- grapher by the dozen of course, — for where is he not in these last days of the nineteenth century ? Oh, Kodak, Kodak, what have we done that even in these far-away Northern solitudes one cannot escape thy demon eye ! Nothing in the nature of an acci lert occurred whilst we were lookinor on, although there were one or two narrow shaves. 1 learned, though, that an amateur photogi'apher, a few days before, had been lucky enough (.sic) to get a snapshot of a boat that had overturned and two men who were drowning ! I know the gentleman's name, but will not mention it, trusting that if he ever reads these lines he will send me a copy of the photograph in question, as T am a great admirer of presence of mind. The canoe had befcii waiting for us some time when we reached the tramway, and we found all in readiness to load again. I had an interesting ali: & la T 142 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE ' m s ';( 1 It I cliat with Mr. Norman Macauley, the manager of the tramwa}'. He told me tliat the line had only taken 18 men 21 days to lay ; that they had. 23 horses in work constantly, and that the charge for portage was 3 cents per lb. ; men's wages were i|8 per day of 10 hours, with overtime paid extra at same rate. *' People were beginning to realize," he said, *' that the cost of portage was cheaper than tlie risk of losing their boats." The river below the rapids is quite respectable again, and is ahnost a (juiet stream, though for some little distance bars appear now and then, and one lias to be careful how one steers. At last, however, it settles down into a good steady stream, and we have nothing further to trouble us for many miles ahead. The scenery now became ^'^ery grand, the banks in many places being of fifreat height, and often consisted of a sort of loose gravel, which kept continually falling into the river with a movement like quicksand. Where these cliffs were formed of harder substance, maybe sandstone, thousands of martins had built their nests in the very face of the rock, and formed a very pretty siglit as ihey kept Hying FROM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY 143 in and out of them. So, gently paddling down the stream, and taking it very leisurely and enjoying it ininien'-ely, we at length reached Lake Lebarge, the largest and last of the lakes we liad to cross. Seen from the river it appeared like a sea, for one was looking down its entire length of thirty-two miles, so the opposite shores were of course not visible. Evening was on us and it was a dead calm, so we decided to row a short distance out and camp on the shore at some convenient spot. We had two sets of visitors that night, one being almost as troublesome as the other, Indians from a neighbouring village and mosquitoes, tlioMgh fortunately^ there were not so many of the former as the latter, or we should have had to shift our quarters at once. Barring these slight annoy- ances, our camping-ground was a pleasant one, on a level stretch of grass quite close to the lake. After supper I got out my canvas l)ath and had a good hot tub, though the pleasure of it was some- what marred by having to take it in the smoke of the fire that Frank kept going all the time with green twigs within a foot or so of me, to keep oft" I' 9ki m i '11' ill 144 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE w. '\ K the myriads of winged pests that hovered around outside the fumes, possibly on the chance of getting a good supper off me. It was a curious fact that these Arctic mosquitoes never seemed to rest, unless it came on cold suddenly cr a strong wind blew. Day and night they were ever ou the alert, and although Harris and I covered our hands and faces with oil lotion till we both looked as if we had been varnished, the beasts would still buzz around trying to find an un- protected place, and, failing that, would actually bite through our thick clothes. Our gauze head- dresses and gauntlet gloves were only useful when we were not working. It was a lovely morning when we started next day to cross the lake, though a light breeze soon sp^ ang up against us. I got out my fishing-tackle, and soon had a big spoon -bait spinning merrily in our wake. The lake being reputed full of trout, no rod was necessary, only a good strong line fastened somewhere to the boat and a landing-net handy. There is no " playing " these uneducated fish ; only brute strength is required to pull them in ; it is a case of which is the stronger, the fish or FROM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY 145 1 lext oon |kle, in ut, ine Inet ed em or the line. Tlie breeze meanwhile was steadily increasing in force, a bad sign so early in the morning, as a big sea would soon spring up if it lasted long. I took the sculls and paddled along quietly for some miles, Harris meanwhile reading to us Nansen's " Farthest North " to while away the time, and with the fishing-line twisted round his ankle to feel if any fish took a fancy to my bait. At last we reached a big island some distance out, and here struck the wind with a vengeance. There was no use attempting to go any further till it abated, for we should have been swamped, so we decided to lay up in a little sheltered bay close by. Just as we were turning towards it, Harris called out to me to stop rowing, as our fishing-line had got caught in a snag or something and was cutting his foot, and then he started pulling it in, when, to his and our astonish- ment, he found he had caught a nice 7-lb. trout. The landing-net was handy, and we (juickly had our captive aboard, and were naturally delighted with so palatable an aur FROM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY 147 friends the mosquitoes were waiting to receive us as usual. From Lake Lebarge our route was clown a dan- gerous river known as the Forty Mile, where the current is very swift, and many partly submerged rocks bar the passage. Numerous wrecks along the bank testify to the treacherous nature of the waterway. Many fatal accidents will occur at this river, as it is not even marked as " dangerous " on any maps I have seen. The rocks crop up so unexpectedly that a boat is almost on them before the steersman can steer clear. We passed several parties of men busily engaged s[)reading out their baggage and provisions on the bank in the sun to dry, thus proving the narrow escapes they had had. We fortunately got along without accident, Boss steering very cautiously. The current was tre- mendous, and we raced along at a rate of at least eight miles an hour, catching up boat after boat. It was curious how, after the usual greetings had been exchanged, always the hr.st rpiestion asked was, " What is the latest news ? How are they getting on in Cuba ? " or, " Is it true that England has declared war with France?" Unfortunately ' \ m m ti. m Cl m T!v;! ill ■ m m n 148 i^TJOJlf EUSTON TO KLONDIKE we knew about as much as they did of the doings of the outside world. In this wilderness, news, weeks old, is greedily swallowed, and I have seen j|2 given for an old newspaper that had been knocking around for a month. One is indeed out of the world up here. The Thirty Mile River may be said to be the beginning of the mighty Yukon, for, although it is given several different names in parts, it is virtually but one and the same river that issues from Lake Lebarge and empties itself into the Behring Sea 2549 miles away. Fed at intervals in the course of its long route by several almost equally grand rivers — amongst others the Hoot- linqua, Pelly, Stewart, Indian, and Tanana — this immense waterway may be said to consti- tute the main artery of the entire breadth of the British North-West Territories and Alaska, and to drain this vast stretch of continent from the Taku Mountains to its north-eastern seaboard. It was just about here that a column of smoke Ijeyond the hills ahead of us attracted my atten- tion. It arose from a forest on fire, and was the outpost, as it were, of the many that were FROM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY 149 following it, for for days after this scarcely an hour passed without one of these conflagrations being visible. In fact, on one occasion we appeared to be passing through a positive zone of fire, and for two whole dayo smoke obscured the sky to such an extent as to give the impression of a dense fog, through which the sun, completely denuded of its rays, shone a deep dull red. All this immense and irretrievable amount of destruction of fine timber is, without any doubt whatever, caused by the thousands of prospectors and others who have passed this way since the beginning of summer. They stop to camp or cook a meal, light a fire, and, when they have done, off they go, leaving the glowing embers on the ground, where the slightest breeze blows them amongst the dry moss; and in an incredibly short time a big blaze ensues, which spreads from tree to tree with a rapidity that must be seen to be believed, and which never stops until it has completely burnt itself out. All this wilful destruction might have been avoided had these vandals had the consideration to throw a l^icket of water over their fire when leaving. It is no exaggeration to state that when we passed through Sji! 150 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE 'ji I ,i; ' i; i! ill June the whole country was ablaze from the banks of the river to the very summits of the highest hills where was timber to burn, and I feel much inclined to add that in my opinion, if there is no heavy rain to check these fires, there will be scarcely a particle of timber left growing in the country in a year's time. The landscape where the devouring element has net yet reached looks so peaceful and beautiful in its spring mantle of delicate green and brilliant flowers, that it makes one positively feel sad to realize the rough awakening that so surely awaits it after its long winter sleep. That anything can be done to put a stop to the culpable negligence that causes all this destruction is extremely doubtful with the small force of police in the district. There is, I believe, a law in Canada making it a penal offence, punishable by fii^een years' imprisonment, for any one convicted of setting iSre to a forest ; but how is a conviction to be obtained ? We had a bit of excitement one evening as we were crossing the river at a particularly wild part, and where the current was very swift. Boss i ; -hi FROM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON" CITY 151 ' suddenly called out to mo to get my gun ; there was a moose swimming across the stream. But my gun was in the bottom of the canoe securely packed away in its case, and, as it turned out, luckily so, for, in spite of both he and Harris begging me to hurry up, something in the look of the so-called moose made me a bit doubtful. As we got nearer my doubts were fully justified, for the swimming animal turned out to be only a big snag, which somehow, even when quite close, took the exact form of a moose, even to the horns, the water pouring past giving it every appearance of movinrf. Mentioning this incident reminds me how little animal life there is in these vast solitudes. At Bennett one day there was great excitement, some one having caught sight of a bear on the side of the mountain near the town. Some men started off after it with rifles, but of course did not see it again. I saw some squirrels, and also once a beaver swimming in the river, these being the only four-footed wild creatures I can re- member seeing. Among the feathered tribes, curiously enough, there were a great many sea- I i i -w 152 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE i : ^ .ill gulls about, looking very much out of place indeed, so far from their native element. There appeared to be plenty of small birds; in fact, the forest often sounded quite like an aviary when we were encamped. Linnets, chaffinches, yellow- hammers, robins, and jackdaws hopping from bough to bough and chirruping or singing merrily, helped to send one's thoughts back to far-away England, and made one frequently feel very home-sick, and wishing that this was some quief back-water on the dear old Thames. A gun out here, when on a flying trip, is an absolute useless superfluity, and one never has any use for it. At length we reached the Five Finger Rapids, the last but one of the places marked as " dangerous " on our maps. Boss assured us that from what he had heard he could take us through easily ; but, following the example of others who reached the place at the same time as we did, I considered it advisable to have a look around beforehand. The Five Finger Rapids are caused by three huge masses, or rather bluffs, of rock standing FEOM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY 153 out right in the middle of the stieam, which is extremely wide ju.st here. The swift current, thus suddenly divided, rushes through the narrow passages with terrific force, and presenting a wild scene that is in my mind, if anything, more impressive than either Miles Canon or White Horse. Only one of these passages, that on the right bank going down, is practicable ; the other two, though being much wider, are full of submerged rocks, which make their naviiration extremely dangerous. Many seagulls were Hying round the rocks, and added considerably to the general effect. Without a moment's hesitation I came to' the conclusion that I would prefer not to entrust the steering of the canoe to an inexperienced man like Boss, and, as there were several pilots about, arranjxed with one of them to take her through for the sum of f 5. He would, however, have only one person besides himself in the boat to manage the sculls. So as Boss was anxious to go, and neither Harris nor I were anxious for a wetting, I let him do so. We went up on to the nearest bluff overhanging the rapids to see the canoe go by. m MIi>i in n^ : ii 154 FEOM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE After a little delay caused by our [)ilot re-arrang- ing the packing of the baggage and covering it up, they came along at a tremendous rate, swinging round almost in the swirling water as they entered the narrow channel. About halfway through a wave hit the nose of the canoe, and completely drenched Boss, besides shipping a quantity of water. We hurried along, and about a half mile down found them safely landed, though Boss was very wet and, as ill luck would have it, my baggage was soaked through. Wc elected to camp on the spot, and lighted a big fire to dry my things. Kverything in the bags had got completely saturated, and it took hours to get them right. Fortunately my blankets had escaped. We made an early start the following morning, and just as we were setting off were surprised to see a large boat with several men in it come through on the far side of the rapids. A few minutes later a smaller boat floated down, also on the same side of the river, bottom upwards. Some men passing close to us at that moment told us that the larger boat, though it had got through FROM LAKE MARSH TO DAWSON CITY 155 safely, was halt' full of water, and bad only escaped being smashed up by a miracle almost. The smaller boat, in which had been one man of the same party, had been overturned, and its occujjant drowned without any one being able to do any- thing to save him ; in fact, he had not been seen since. This naturally cast somewhat of a gloom over us all We did not delay, however. There were still the Rink Rapids to pass, and then all our troubles would be over. Five miles' rowinjj: brought us within hearinf' of the roarinix of the water over the rocks. We pulled up under the bank a little distance below, and, getting out, walked up to see what we had to do. The rapids consisted of a sort of wide tumbling bay, formed by a ledge of rocks extending almost across the entire width of the river. On the right hand is a (piiet bit of very sv.'ift current, which, with ordinary care, can be navigated without any special risk by cool-headed meriik. I thoufifht it best not to have all of us in the boat, so asked Harris to walk on with Frank whilst Boss and I took the boat through, he steering, I rowing. This we did with the utmost ease and m' :' ( ■M -jii„x.ii^r-'^--"-'"''°""-^''^""'^""-'*""* 150 FROM KUHTON TO KLONDIKE vntfiout a moment's anxiety, and rejoined the others a little distance further on. Our course to Dawson was now all clear sailing. We had passed all troublesome places, and there was notliing before us but steady quiet sculling to land us in due time at the golden city. Although we had been makino" very good time considerino* the many inevitable delays, I began to find the joujuey growing just a little bit monotonous. Sc(;nery palls on one after a time, more especially wiien it is always the same day after day, mile after mile; and there certainly is not much variety on the mighty \"ukon, where nothinor is ever seen to ])reak the eternal monotony of the solemn pines or the silent grandeur of the mountains ; for even the occasional encampments of pros[)ectors bear the strongest family resemblance to one another, and could not be said to improve the landscape from an artist e point of view. The grand soli- tudes of distant lands, where the sun rises and sets with deadly monotony on a never -vary ir<^ scene, are to my mind far less impressive than the beauty of some homely moorland in close touch with civilization, where Katu^e's mood is less [li|i li vx> FROM LAKh' MARS I' TO DAWSON CITY 157 .stern and repellent. Maybe the roiign life and coarse fara of the pioneer deter one from looking on such s'ienes from the standpoint of an artist. IMie days passed in a soit of unvarying routine. We gener.'dly broke up camp at eight o'clock in .^•My,iL,'MMk A MV GANOE AND PAUTY ON IIIE YUKON. the moralng, and then vve would take it in turns to scull, sticking at it generally for at least three hours, the others reading, smoking, sleeping, or fish- ing to while away the time. At midday we would stop for dinner, landing at some convenient spot, Frank lighting a small tire, and preparing cotfee ht^ 158 FBOM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE or soup. Then another long spell iill close on midnight, as we generally had something ready in the canoe for su})per, so as not to lose time ; then fixing up camp again, and bed — a healthy enough existence, no doubt, but certainly not wildly exciting, as may be imagined. A curious incident occurred one day as we were passing through a very wide part of the river, where numerous islands cut up the broad stream to such an extent that the actual banks were scarcely visible. It was midday, and the sun blazing with tropical intensity out of a cloudless sky, when suddenly we heard the voice of a man hailing us from the bank of an island ahead. Our surprise may be imagined, for there was no boat near him, and we could not imagine how he had managed to get where he was. Still, he was evidently calling for help, so we made for the spot, when, to our still further astonishment, we saw he had his kit-bag with him. Before we could get close u}), in accents of urgent entreaty he called out to ask us to take him over to the opposite shore, or anywhere away from this island, as he was being eaten alive by the mosijuitoes. FJWM LAKE MAnSH TO DAWSON CITY 150 By this time we had got near enough to distinguish his face, which was a siglit to be remembered, fur it was puffed and swelled by the voracious attacks of the insects to such an extent that his features v/ere scarcely discernible. He must have been su tiering acute agony. Of course we proposed taking him otf, but, unfortunately for him, the Fates were against it. The river was extremely rapid at this point — in fact, so much so, that we had the greatest difficulty in getting the canoe anywhere n ar where the unfortunate man was standing, whilst, to add to his ill luck, just below us w <,s a seething mass of water, indicating partly submerged rocks. It was an extremely dangerous place to endeavour to land, and, after several futile attempts, we found ourselves being carried away from the island by the force of the current, and with no chance of ascending the turbulent stream again. So we had reluctantly t >■ m^ lie had made himself objectionable io his boat- mates, and, in order to get rid of him, they had " marooned " him here — a terrible revenge as it turned out. We were all anxiously counting the hours it would now take us to reach our journey's end, for signs were everywhere apparent that we had reached the famous gold-bearing belt of country — Fort Selkirk, at the mouth of the Pelly Rivei-, where there has recently been a rush ; Stewart River, which is spoken of as immensely rich ; Indian River ; gradually the prospector's tent became more and more frequently visible and often in large camps. On one occasion we saw two men busily engaged ''washing" on the shore, so we landed, and they showed us quite a respect- able sample of the precious metal they had just o])tained. We were now approaching well-known creeks and islands — Monte Cristo, Baker Creek, and others too numerous to mention, where active work had scarcely yet been commenced, but where good prospects had been located ; every- thing indicated that our long and arduous boat journey was nearly finished. At last, on turning FJi'OM LAKE MAIiSlf TO DAIVSON CITY IGl a higli bluff* that had hidden from our view a big bend in the river, Boss exclaimed (|uietly, ''There is Dawson City;" and we saw it spread out before us, not more than a few hundred yards distaiV^, a huge town of white tents and log ciibins, whilst in front of it, and all along the river bank for some distance, hundreds of boats were moored three and four deep. The goal for which we had travelled 9000 miles was reached at last. i< saw shore, pect- just mown J reek, where need, every- boat irning A rYri< A(. VI Kl»\ liOAl', M ynsp" I I 1 1'. i ll : f 1 n 1G2 F7?0ilf EUSTON TO KLONDIhrE CHAPTER XI. DAWSON CITY. First impressions — Inspector and Mrs. Constantino — The main street — Dawson City — Famine prices — Menu of a little dinner — Tiie I'ank ol" I'ritisli North America — The pros- pects of the Klondike listrict — IMarket valne of gold — The roya'ty question — Interview with Majr • Walsh. ^Pry and picture to yourself a wide flat stretch <>r uiarshy ground, with a background of high hills, on the shore of a mighty river rushing swiftly by ; and cover this shore with as many tents of all shapes and frizes as your imagination can picture. In the water and along the beach facing these tents place liundredsof the roughest of wooden boats and of all imaginable builds, some afloat, others drawn up on the shingle. Then diaw further on your imagination, and see a big and motley crowd of men and women and children, in all sorts and conditions of garb, round and about tlie tents, lii DAWSON CITY 1G3 boats, anrl everywhere; and above all a blazing sun, and plenty of dust blown about by a per- sistent wind, — and you have Dawson, the golden city, as it appeared to me as I landed on the 14th of June, 1S08. and iwn y'our 1 of and ints, *....J •>• ^, ■ piMHBi I TiiK itivia; I itoxT, DAWSON cnv. It is said that first impressions are the truest and the most lasting. In this instance, however, I feel that such was not the case, for the real impres- sion of Dawson was only gained after a pnjlonged visit and a close ins])ecti()n of the place. At the time of my arrival the town w^is in such a growing, v< r I : i ■(I ' . ■ T .'I 'I II. S ir,4 FROM EUSTON TO KLONDIKE or ratlicr embryo stage, that there were no hotels or inns worthy of the name, so I decided to live in the tent for the few days we should remain before leaving for the mines. Our first care, therefore, was to find a suitable camping-ground. This was no easy matter, the whole place being simply packed with tents and log huts as far as the eye could reach, and we had to remember that we only had ourselves to transport the baggage and provisions, so the nearer the canoe the better. At this juncture I suddenly bethought me of a letter of introduction I had to Inspector Constantine of the North-West Mounted Police. We had fortunately managed to push our way through the pack of boats, and moored the canoe directly in front of the Government enclosure, from which the Union Jack waved gaily, and by a still further bit of luck, I found on inquiry of the policeman on duty at the gate that the inspector was in. I therefore sent in my card with the letter of introduction, and was immediately received by a middle-aged gentleman of military appearance, wlio courteously informed me that he wouh't be delighted to do anything that lay in his power to DAWSOX CITY ir,5 nan in. of .y a ,nce, be ;v to render our stay in Dawson agreeable ; and suiting liis action to the words, he put on his hat, and took nie round to a secluded spot behind the barrack square, where he said we could camp. This was delightful, and put us out of our difficulty at once. Then, as if to add to our good fortune, several policemen off duty volunteered to help carry our things up from the canoe, no light task had we been forced to do it ourselves. A very short time, therefore, after we arrived, saw us installed in our camp, and with all our belongings around us. Almost before we were unpacked, up came the genial inspector to insist, he said, on behalf of Mrs. Constantino, on Harris and me dining with them that evening. We would perhaps have preferred " P^ooii^o it " in the tent as usual, as we were not prepared for paying visits after our ten days on the trail, but his invitation was so cordial that I felt constrained to accept it. We had a delightful evening, Mrs. Constantine— who, by the way, enjoys the enviable reputation of being the most popular woman in Dawson — telling us a heap of interesting incidents of her life on the gold-fields. The dinner did not detain us late, and we got away a little y(\ ,' ! . i th^i (Si ir,r, F/,'OM hl\STOX TO KLOSDlKh: after ten, and got everythini^ comfortable in cani[) before turning in. We liad a stroll down towards the town early in the morning, for the police barracks are situated a little away from the centre. The road along the water front was crowded with people strolling about looking at the new arrivals in the boats, and presented a curiously holiday-like appearance, very unlike Bennett and Linderman, where every one seemed to have no time for anything but hii preparations for the journey before him. Here, the long river journey was an accomplished fact, and the old miner and the newest of new-comers rubbed shoulders in the biof and ever-increasing throng of cacfer gold hunters. On the main street, which is a continuation of the river front, the scene was even more animated, and almost batHes description. On all sides big buildings were being erected with feverish rapidity ; the sound of hammering and sawing was to be heard every- where, and the roadway w^as encumbered with rough timber, planks, ladders, and all the para- phernalia of the carpenter and builder. Harris and I stood and looked on in amazement. We lie lo- los KJ- of Lth ira- Uti« u W( H; ■i>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) T 1.0 ISia I.I ii 112.5 «i2 I 12.2 If 1^ 1^ '""^ 2.0 18 1.25 1.4 1 1.6 -* 6" — ► V] e /a >,• /a /A '^ 'f Photographic Sdences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 (716) 873-4S03 A 5 . -^o -re !!< '^1 i 111 i ■ f ■ . DAWSON 01 TV IGl) had both expected a great deal from all we liad heard and read, but the extraordinary scene of bustle and activity certainly outdid all that one could have even looked for. Here was a big city growing before our very eyes. It recalled one of s. ^fij^f! ■^ -, j222 J?. i ^Hfeftb^ ^^^^1 1 Hi— ii'Mlf 2^ ^r^lt —31 ^^ -t*^ »• i^-a^aaB^: Sil^ "? .^— — . <~r W- STKEKT SCENK, DAWSON CITY. i'. those street scenes that have become so popular at recent exhibitions, only this was before the opening ceremony, and they wew hurrying up ho as to get finished in time ! The footway was blocked to such an extent with men walking, or standing about, or sitting on the ,; 170 FjROM KUSTON to KLONDIKE li piles of timber, that it was with difficulty we could get along. Many very smartly- dressed women were to be seen, looking indeed strangely out of keeping in such surroundings, for the men were absolutely the roughest, raggedest, and most unkempt lot I have seen anywhere before, or am likely ever to see again. There was a certain picturesqueness about their dirt though, as there is, for instance, in the squalor of the Italian beggar, and with their long boots, faded yellow flannel coats, and slouch hats, they added considerably to the stage-like effect of the whole scene. As one gradually worked one's way through this big crowd and caught scraps here and there of the conversation, one realized that all these rough, dirty-looking fellows were not what they outwardly appeared, and that this was not entirely a gathering of roughs or " hobos," but a cosmopolitan assemblage, and was of all nations of the earth, attracted hither by the mighty ring of the Klondike gold ; and whilst I watf in Dawson I had ample oppor- tunities for verifying this impression. As we strolled along, wonderstruck at all we saw, Harris suggested our getting a long-needed DAWSON CITY 171 shave. There were plenty of barbers' shops, so we walked into one that looked a little less rough than the others; even at that it would have disgraced the meanest street in the East End of London, and the occupants of the half-dozen chairs looked like dock labourers. I was sur- prised to notice, whilst waiting my turn, that when a man went to pay the proprietor for what he had had, he produced a little bag of gold-dust, and the requisite quantity was weighed out in payment, scales being kept for the purpose; no actual money changed hands. Having had my inodcst shave, I asked what there was to pay, and was told $1. Harris had boen shaved and had his hair brushed up also, so his lot came to $1.50. Fancy paying six shillings for a shave and brush up, and a dirty one at that! There was a notice up to the effect that hot baths were obtainable here, so I asked casually what they charged, and was informed their charges were $2.50 for a bath, $1.50 for hair-cutting, $1.50 for a shampoo, and $1 for a shave. I at once realized that unless I struck a gold-mine with- out delay, my modest purse would not suflice to : r ,i||; 4,1 '-[ .1 f : 1 ; . , ■ - -fc; ^ ■ 1' r|;- s 1 ^ .- . n ii T 'ill 172 FliOM KU8T0N TO KLONDIKE keep me long in the most ordinary necessaries of life. Yet all these apparently poverty-stricken men paid these exorbitant charges without a murmur. Of course this strikes a new-3omer more forcibly than it does an old-timer, for every- thing is on the same exorbitant basis — food, wages, house rent, etc. A few examples will be of interest. • When we were in Dawson (June, 1898) a square meal, consisting of bacon and beans, or some- times fresh moose-steaks, tea and bread and butter, cost $2.50, and all drinks or cigars in the diflerent saloons 50 cents each. One wondered how the ordinary individual, not a gold-mine owner, could pay such prices, till we learned that carpenters got paid as much as $25 and $30 per day, cooks $15, and ordinary workmen $10. The dollar was practically the lowest negotiable sum, and very little could be bought even for that, for everything had to be packed into the country, and over the trail, and down the river, or on the ice, so one can- not be surprised at the prices asked for the most ordinary things. House rent (if the most ram- shackle canvas structures can be so denominated) DAWSON CITY 173 was astoundingly high considering how young the place was. Small shanties on the main street fetched $200 per month ; a " Restaurant " (i.e. canvas 40 X 25) $35 per day ; provisions were, of course, in proportion, though prices have gone STUEET SCENE, DAWSON CITY. down considerably since the arrival of many boats with supplies. Some phenomenal prices were still given for luxuries "not easily obtainable." Amongst ot^^ers, eggs fetched |3 a dozen ; lemons ,$0 and bananas $12 a dozen; ten head of oxen fetched $7oOO, and retailed $2 per lb. Of course ■^\ I 174 FROM EU8T0N TO KLONDIKE there wfiks an immense amount of money or gold- dust in the town, otherwise these prices could never be kept up, for they appeared quite out of proportion in most cases, as, for instance, why should hjmons have cost 50 cents apiece, whilst bananas were $1 ? Nothing seemed in ratio. What, however, did such trifles matter to a man who was taking thousands of dollars' worth of gold a day out of his claim ? Many such men would come into the town from the creeks after an absence of perhaps some weeks, bringing with them a bag of " dust " to spend. When it was all gone, back they would go. Meanwhile no ex- travagance was too great for them as long as the "dust" lasted. To the "checharka" {i.e. new- comer) it was little less than appalling to watch these men spend their gold, either in gambling or in drinking in the saloons. When paying for drinks, they would fling their bags on the counter, and let the man who was serving them weigh out what was owing, never even troubling to look how much he took, this probably being considered " bad form." As the scales were perhaps at the other end of the room, one can imagine the opportunities DAWSOX CITY 175 thus afforded for petty pilfering. A few grains from every bag would not be noticed, and would soon amount to a respectable sum. There are two or three music-halls in Dawson, with some pretty artistes engaged especially and brought from Seattle, and on the evening of the opening of the first of these halls, there was a big crowd of the richest claim holders. From all accounts, it was a great night, and champagne (Mumm's extra dry) was flowing all the time at $40 per pint bottle! All the lady artistes at these mining-camp "opera houses" receive a big commission on drinks sold through their intro- duction. One can, therefore, guess what a nice sum the prettiest and most popular girl must have made on the champagne she sold on this occasion. The menu, of a little dinner given whilst I was in Dawson by one of the gold kings may be of interest. 1 Two portions of fricassee of canned chicken. Two moose-steaks. One rum omelette (made with crystalh'zed eggs). One pint bottle of champagne. !{ The bill came to $30— roughly, £6. i- 3 "X^ M 'i 17G FIfOM K US TON TO KLONDIKE But to sum it up, this total disregard of money is soon comprehensible. These men, most of them, came to the country without a cent; the money they squander represents but so much "dust;" they fill their bags with it, have what they consider a good time, and, when it is all gone, return to their claim for more, if they have it. When the currency of the country become notes or gold coinage, it will be very different, for then they will be able to note, if they care to, what they spend. At present the Dawson trader makes his fortune out of the "old-timer," not the new- comer, who, as a rule, counts every dollar he spends, while comparing in his mind Dawson prices with those of the place he hails from. I had an interesting hour at the Bank of British North America one morning watching several men selling the result of their season's wash-up; the bank, by the way, only consisted of a canvas tent structure. The gold was brought in in large leather bags, each one weighing about as much as a man could carry. Each of these was emptied into a big copper scoop, and put on a large pair of scales, and weighed carefully to a grain. A as tied pair A •A f. J. I. tl N r DAWSON CITY 179 stranger to tho country, walking in suddenly, would have never believed that these big heaps of metal were each thousands of dollars* worth of gold, or that the owners of all these sacks of wealth were the rough, dirty-looking men lolling over the counter. The various claims were busy finishing their work for the season, Cn 1 the banks had their hands full. The manajifcr lold us that he had taken over $250,000 wortli of gold that day al I : ^ When the various banks clo'e for the day, the gold is sent to the barracks, and is kept under an armed guard all night — a necessary precaution since there were scarcely any iron safes yet in Dawson, and all the houses built either of wood or canvas. All the gold brought in from the creeks is not, however, sold to the banks ; the two large stores of the North American Transportation and Trading Company, known locally as the N.A.T. and T. Co., and the Alaska Commercial Company, knov/n as the A.C. Co., take charge of a consider- able amount for their customers. At one of these stores I was shown safes, huge boxes, and other receptacles packed with the familiat leather gold- 5 » 8 J I ; J 5 it > \ 'I 11 i r "W^ 180 FR02.L EUSTON TO KLONDIKE %\. Ill bags, each bag bearing the owner's name, the weight of contents, and date of delivery, many of these bags being of enormous weight. Whether or not the Yukon district ever fulfils the prognostications of marvellous wealth as prophesied by Mr. Ogilvie and others, it is not my province to discuss in a narrative that is purely descriptive. This much, however, I feel bound to say — that before I came to the country I was told by people who had been there that I would see gold brought down from the creeks in amounts that would make me open my eyes, and I smiled. Well, I did see this in Dawson, and even more than I ever could have imagined possible. The old saying that one swallow does not make a summer of course holds good up here also, so it would be absurd to assume that the entire region is a mass of gold-bearing gravel because some parts have proved marvellously rich. That there is an immense amount of gold in the Klondike district is indisputable, but whetlier it will be found pretty generally distributed or only in patches, and therefore fall to the luck of only a favoured few, time alone will prove. It would be both DAWSON CITY 181 unfair to the country and misleading to the public to attempt to give any decided opinion either way at present, for the whole district is only just now being prospected. Rich finds are continu- ally occurring, in what were hitherto considered impossible places, and by the time this goes to press many places up to the present unheard of will have suddenly come to the front. It may be of interest to mention whilst on the subject the method for disposing of gold-dust and nuggets. The banks and stores buy it of the miners at a fixed rate — $14 per ounce. Out of this they deduct four per cent., to cover exchange, assay charges, freight, and insurance, and they give drafts for the balance on any place the men wish. Should the gold assay more than $14, the difference is paid without further deduction to the miner. These charges strike one as reason- able and fair enough as afjainst what the men were forced to pay last year before the banks came here, and the two stores had it all their own way. I have heard of eighteen per cent, being charged for a bill of exchange. These, however, are not the only charges levelled on the fortunate I i'l iiM 1 A I I 182 FROM FJJSTON TO KLONDIKE H-S»l:!^ prospector, for there is a royalty of ten per cent, charged by the Government on the gross returns of every claim. This is no doubt a very big and irksome tax on a new country, and is causing an enormous amount of bad feeling, and, to a very great extent, Justly so. I went very carefully into the pros and cg>?>* of this question, which appears sufficiently serious to retard the progress of these new fields unless it is speedily and judiciously revised. The men contend that such a tax will practically mean closing down many mines next year, the possible profit being too douLuful to balance the certain risk. On the other hand, the Government says, " We have gene to the great expense of bringing police into the country, establishing stations, and generally affording you complete protection for your life and property. We have thus induced banks to establish branches in the country. We have introduced a mail service, and are about to spend money on trails to the various creeks, etc. All this must be paid for, and, if so, by who else but tliose who are taking wealth from the country ? " , «e DAWSOy CITY 183 This struck me as all very well, but still the fact remains that a ten per cent, royalty on gross returns was excessive. The increase of revenue to the Budget of the Dominion Govern- ment this year will be enormous from the usual resources alone. When it is remembered how many thousands of people have come into the country, the number of miners' licences issued at j|10 each, and the claims that will be recorded at the fee of };15, the sum derived from these sources of increased income alone should be sufficient to defray any extra expenses that may be incurred through sending police from what is practically one part of the dominion to another, and the cost of laying out new trails (which had not yet even been started). There can be no doubt, in my mind, that thus unvvisely hampering a young country can but have two effects — firstly, that of seriously retarding its progress ; and secondly, of inciting people to use their utmost ingenuity to evade what they rightly or wrongly consider an unjust impost. It is estimated that the revenue of England is the loser by millions every year through people making false income returns.