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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. y errata id to nt ne pelure, ipon d 1 2 3 32X t \- :■$ : i 3 ^.;''«-V:- • 6 :.^m^: li<" I 'I • .*^-- ' &^ ,'' s?; ■'•'■..i| ROCKtStffi '1P?5-'*i!i^ (3, '^PV-L ,''fiF/ «K» '^fiMffr^ «'Hi ■W srfe" ^'i^ •■■■ffc.' 4 ^ ^ f 4 .•^•"^ ^•"- ^ *# "'^rl*!?" ^:^::m '''--**'-<»»»1«K%, '''„-\y^' 'Kh "SHI ■V ;V; ■'•fc-. Vii itiiis0^' .T--,«»i«BC) shoioht/f nU the^ PROMINENT POINTS AD J A REFERENCES. I ('fUfirarf.Ji'in ■:>■ ,J f'hitrrhfs f> l!rirlf/c to /i'lfft /. ; nz/'fj,,/,' .. 'S Jl„f// fliiist „ // ClUtH/t" //,/itf _JJ r_JJ ' liif.|.rxv;. /JU-tF"*"'^'' ■■•M r .i»-.i>. A 1 ^SftJli»t«i««M»«,|»,, A GUIDE FOli EVERY VISITOR TO NIAGARA FALLS. INCLUDING THE SOURCES OF NIAGARA, AND ALL TLACFii OF INTEUEtiT, BOTH ON TUE AMERICAN AND CANADA SIDE. EMBELLISHED WITH TIEWS OF THE FALLS, AND A MAP OF THE RIVER BY THE AUTHOR, (^ ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL ROUTES FROM THE FALLS Tf MONTREAL, BOSTON, SARATOGA SPRIXCS, VIA LAKE ONTARIO, LAKE CHAMPLAIN, ALBANY, NEW YORK itO. BY F. H. eTOHNSON, PRACTICAL SURVEYOR, A UF.SIDfcyT AT NIAGARA, A5D AUTHOR OV MAPS AND STATISTICS OF THK FALLS > ROCHESTER: D. M. DEWEY, ARCADE HALL. ... "J F J 6 i Tii; y oi L. Entered accorditiff to Act of Concrress, in the year 1852, bj F. II. JOHNSON, m the Clerk's Office of the ]>istrict Court for the Northern District of New York. .terB typed by BEADLE (& B K O T H E a, BUFFALO, . '7 1852, by ern District TO THE VISITOR. Tliis is tlie on ly original, coiTcct and reliable work in riKirket. The author, for several years, has heen personally and familiarly acquainted with all the points of interest of this "world's wonder," and great pains have been taken to make this work in every respect correct, and worthy the attention of the tourist. The different routea and places are so arranged and minutely described, that the stranger cannot be misled or hesitate. These pages arc given to the public, with the belief that something of the kind is needed, inasmuch as works written by casual observers, are either unnecessarily oblix upon some points, or not sufficiently clear and explicit upon others, to meet the wishes of the traveling public. This diffi- culty, it is believed, is entirely obviated in the following f pages. The Author. i* I CONTENTS. The Route to Goat Island 9 The Bridge 9 llapids 10 Chapin Island 11 The Toll-gate 11 Goat Island... 12 Center Fall or Cave of the Winds 13 Three Profiles 14 Luna Island 14 « Sam Patch's Leap 15 Biddle Stairs 16 Prospect Tower 18 The Horse Shoe Fall 18 Quantity of Water 19 Depth of Water on the top of Horse Shoe Fall 19 Gull Island 20 Three Sisters 21 BathiiiK Place of Francis Abbot, the Hermit 22 Head of Goat Island 23 The First Proprietor of JS^iagara Falls 25 Iris or Goat Island 26 Local Distances 27 Spray 28 Rainbows 28 View of the Falls at Xight 29 " •* Sunrise 29 " " Sunset 29 Roar of the Falls 30 First Impressions of Strangers 30 Rise of the River 31 Fall " " ,...,.31 Prolmbility of Fowls and Fish going over the Falls alive 32 Crossing the river above the Falls 32 Winter Scent' 32 The First Man who saw the Falls 33 Indian Tradition 33 VI CONTENTS. Casualties 33 Accidents to Strangers 36 AVisit to Goat Island by Moonlight 38 The Lunar Bow 39 A Tour to Canada by Way of the Ferry 40 Ferry — American Side 40 Landing on tlie Canada Side 42 Clifton House 42 The Museum 43 Table Ruck 44 Going under the Falls 44 Courage of Ladies 45 Burning Spring 46 Chippewa 47 Lundy 's Lane Battle-Field 47 Local Distances— Canada Side 48 Fall of Table Rouk..... 49 A Fissure in the remaining part of Table Rock 51 Burning of the Caroline 54 The Line between the two Governments 55 Ca:ial Boat on the Verge of the Horse Shoe Fall 56 Fort Sclilosser * 56 Indian Offering to the Falls 56 Point View 58 Stanzas 59 Lines GO A Sabbath at Niagara CI To Niagara 63 Catlin's Cave 65 The Route to Canada, (Table Rock,) via the Suspension Bridge 66 SuspensionSBridge 67 Bender's Cave 71 A Tour to the Whirlpool 72 Scene at the Whirlpool 75 Devil's Hole 77 Chasm Tower 79 Maid of the Mist 79 Hackmen and Carriages 79 Local Distances about the Falls — American Side 80 Indian Village 80 Health of the Falls 81 ...-33 -" -36 ....38 ...39 --.40 -..40 ...42 ...42 ...43 ...44 -..44 ...45 ...46 -.47 -.47 -.48 -.49 ..51 .54 .55 .56 CONTENTS. vii Garae 81 Fishing 82 AnmsemeDts 82 Churches 82 Hotels 83 Indian Curiosities 83 liecessiou of the Falls 84 Niagara 93 The Upper Lakes 94 Lake Michigan 95 Detroit 97 Amhcrstburg, ( Upper Canada, ) 97 Sandusky 97 Cleveland 97 Ashtabula, (Ohio,) 98 Dunkirk, (N. Y.) 98 Buffalo 98 Black Rock 98 Tonawanta 98 Northern Koute 99 Montreal and Troy Route 99 Lewiston 100 Queenston 101 Brock's Monument.--. - lOl Fort Niagara 102 Fort George, or Newark 103 Toronto 103 Fort Hope 104 Cobourg 104 Kingston 104 Montreal 105 Quebec 108 Falls of Montmorenci 109 ]\Iontrenl and Saratoga Route 110 La Prairie Ill Lake Champlain Ill Isle Aux Noix Ill Rouse's Point 112 Ogdensburg to Boston 112 Plattsburg 114 Burlington 115 Saratoga Springs 116 '^•A I vm CONTENTS. Arausenients 122 Ticouderoga 126 Schenectady 128 Amsterdam 128 Palatine Bridge 128 Fort Plain 128 Little Falls 128 Herkimer 129 Utica 129 Trenton Falls 129 Syracuse 132 Aubm-n 132 Canandaigua 133 Rochester 133 Charlottesville 135 Great Sodus Bay 135 Oswego 135 Sackett*s Harbor 135 Cape Vincent 136 Ogdensburg 136 Lowell 138 Boston 138 Pui;pose of the Monument on Bunker Hill 140 E -.122 -.126 • A2S -.128 -.128 -.128 -.128 -.129 ..129 ..129 L.132 ..132 .133 1 -i33 1 .135 1 .135 'i .135 1 .135 1 .136 1 .136 3 .138 i 138 ^ 140 1 ^laaa^ai uiu: EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE CHAPTER I. It)e ^oi|le to Got|t J^lni)!)- If the visitor stops at the Cataract House, and wishes in the fiv^t ]>lace to view the scenery on Goat Island, take the first left hand street, two minutes' walk brings him to the bridge that leads to the island. If at the Falls Hotel, pass the Buffalo and Niagara Falls railroad depot, incline to the left, the bridge leading over the rapids is in sights and but a few rpds before you. If at the St. Lawrence Hotel, or the Niagara House, pass up Main, take the first right hand street, pass the depot, incline as above to the left, the bridge is just before you. Leading to the toll-gate, on Bath Island, is about fifty rods above the Falls. It is an object of interest; and the inquiry is not unfiequeutly made, how was 10 EVERr MAN ins OWN GUIDE. it ever constructed O'cr siicli a trenieiKlous I'apid. The first Lridirc was thrown across this ani^rv sti-eani in 1817, near the gnst-niiil on Iris or Goat Island, with much liazard of hfe, and great expense. It was carried away by tlie ice the ensuing spiing. In 1818, another was constructed where Bath Island biidge now stands, by the Hon. Augustus Poller, and General P. 13. Porter, brothers, the proprietors of the island. A suitable pier was built at the Avater's edge; long timbers were })rojccted over this abutment the distance tliey \\islied to sink the next pier, loaded on the end next to the shore with stone, to prevent moving; legs were fi'amed through the ends of the projecting timbers, resting upon the rocky bottom, thus forming temporary piers until more substantial ones could be built. Visitors all pass this bridge on to Goat Island. It is perfectly safe ; car- riages and heavy loaded teams cross it almost every liour in the day. The next thincj that attracts the attention of the visitor, as he ])asses on his route to Goat Island, is the rapids. These are grand and impressive; thou- sandj-i, in the summer season, particularly when tho sky is cl(\ar, stand upon this bridge, and gaze upon the angry Hood, as it rushes jsast thtnn, in all its wild I I '■i i of a\| Fi] aractj river seven final CIIAnx S rSLAND THE TOLI.-CATE. 11 and tunniltuoiis furj', fiUiiirf tlie mind with emotions of awe and indesciibablo frrandeur. m From the head of Goat Island, to the grand cat- aract, a distance of three-quarters of a mile, the river falls fifty-one feet. It increases in velocity fi'cni seven to fifteen miles per hour, before it makes the final plunge. This island is to the right of the bridge, within a few rods of the American Fall. A man by the name of Chapin, while working on this bridge,. was tlirown into the stream, and carried by the force of the current on to this island. A Mr. Joel R. Robin- son rescued him with a skiff, and at this time, both are hving in our village. Hundreds of ladies and gentlemen witnessed this bold and daring adven- ture, which few, at so much hazard of life, would have the nerve to attempt. Stands on Bath Island. An excellent bathinc: house, of warm and plunging baths, is kept in fine order, for the accommodation of visitors; open at all hours of the da}^, until eleven o'clock at night. By reo'istering your names at the gate, and paving twenty-five cents, entitles you to all the juivileges of (xoat Island for the ourn.-nt vear, or duriiin: vour ,1 ■"i 12 o. evehy man his own guide. stay. Here is constantly kept a large assoiiraent of Indian work, and other cunosities. The small islands to the left of the toll-gate, are called Ship and Big Islands, taking their names somewhat from their shape. The large building to the right, is a ' paper mill, said to be the largest and most extensive in the state. The next point of interest after passing a small bridge, is Iris or Goat Island. The Indian Empo- rium on your left, is the only house inhabited on the ishmd. A lai'ge assortment of Indian work is ke[!t constantly on hand and for sale; a delightful place to rest. Ice cream and strawberries furnished in their season. Here are thi*ee wavs, the left leads to the head of Goat Island, tlie middle one across the ishind to the rapids, about sixty ro<;ls above the Horse Shoe Fall. But most of the visitors do, and we will, if you please, take to the right, from the fact that we get the less impressive view of the Falls at first, and the most gi'and and imposing last; which, in the opinion of the author, gives the mind more time to ajtpreciate the magnificent grandeur, and awful sublimity of these mighty works. Eighty rods brinjxs us to the foot of the island. The liist small sheet of water nearest you, is the Center ]'\i]|, ur Ca^e of the \Vinds; it is ab'>ut half way ijc!:v,.j,-ii tii- AirsL-ii'-aii. ;;ii I the Horse Shoe Fall. IS is si) la ■"^ CENTER FALL OR CAVE OF THE AVINDS. 13 rnent sraall Ship from is a isive on : is This cave is between Goat and Luna I?lanJ. It is seen to the Lest advantage from below, if the wind is blowing down the river, or from the American shore; you can stand with perfect safety upon a large, flat rock, within a few feet of the falling sheet, without inconvenience, or getting the least wet. In the afternoon, when the sun shines, there is always a splendid and beautiful rainbow, between the sheet of water and the rock, within a few feet of you, and this is the only place on the globe, as far as the au- thor can learn, fi-om history and from travelers, where a rainbow, an entire circle like a ring, can bo seen. Two and sometimes three have been seen at once. Notliing, in the opinion of the writer, can bo more gi'and and imposing than this view. It is one of the most astoundinir scenes on the American side. Width of the cave is one hundred feet^ diameter sixty, heighth one hundred. The enterprising pro- j)rietor has erected convenient seats, with good, sub- stantial railing, which leads you into this cave, between the sheet of water and the rock, on to a platform beyond. It is much visited both by ladies and gentlemen, not only for the novelty of one of the grandest shower baths on earth, but the scenery is perfectly indescribable- '^ 14 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. These profiles are at the foot of Goat Island. In looking across the first sheet of water, directlv »^nder the second, the lowest point of rock that cun be seen is a side view of three profdes, one -liiectly above the other. They appear about two feet long, and much re8end)Ie ihe work of human hands ; the middle one is generally considered by strangei'S to be the most distinct. Luna, a Latin term meaning moon. It is a small island containing about three-fourths of an acre, to tlie right of Goat Island, reached by a foot-bridge. It is called Luna Island, not because it resembles the moon, but from the circumstance of a lunar bow being seen from this place more advantageously than from any other point. If the visitor's nerves are pretty steady, he can stand within one foot of the Falls, and see the angry stream, dashing in all its wildest fury upon the large rocks below, impatient to try its power in making this feaiful leap. The sheet of water to the right is the American Fall ; to the left, the Center Fall or Cave of the Winds. It has often been remarked by strangers that this island trembles, which is undoubtedly true, but the impressions ai'e somewhat heightened from nervous temperament. eigll the Fall HAM PATCH S LEAP. 15 It was ut tills ])()iiif, after we pass a small foot- bridge about twonty-li\o feet above the Fall*, that young Miss Autoiiietto Do Forest of Buffalo, aij^ecl eight years, by some unaccountable casualty fell into the river, and Charles Addi no-ton, aijed twentv-two, jumped in to save her, and they both went over the Falls together, June 21st, 1840. The body of the girl was found much mutilatcil, the next day, and that of the youuLT man tloated four or live days afterwar-l, wheii it was lecovered and buried in the villao-e bui'vincc ir>'ound. This was one of the most afllictive sci'Ues that has occuried within our recc^Uection. Ixetm-n by the same way to Giiat Island. After resting a few moments, pjuis up the liver to a sign on a tree, Biddle Stairs. Is on tlie west side of Goat Island, near Biddle Stairs. /This celebrated person made two successful leaps in the year 1820, ninety-seven feet perpendic- ular, into the riyer below. Question by the \isitor: How was this done? A ladder was raised,. the bot- tom resting on the edge of the river, the toj) inclin- ing over it. Stayed by ropes to the trees on the bank, on the top of wliich was a small platform, he stood gazing upon the nudtitude in Canada. The carriage-road on the opposite side of the liver, and every other point where there was the lea-t prof^pect 10 EVERV MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. of seeing, was filled with Ladies and gentlemen^ attracted to the place Ly a man going to jump over the Fiills. "One thing," said he, "can bo done as well as another," bowed to the Jiudience, stepped off the platform, and went down feet foremost. Q. How much did he get for the job ? A. This is not known, as it was a project got np by the tavern- keepers to attract attention; whatever they gavo him, they kept to themselves. Q. IIow deep is tlio river where he went in. A. About liftv feet. Q. How deep did he go down ? A. It is difficult to answer this question correctly — probably not more th.-in lift ecu or twentv feet. Water is exccedinn'Iv buoynut; when the accelerated force of the jump an as spent, lie would instantly rise. Q. How long did lie remain under water. A. Some said, lie wjis gone for good, others allh'med it was five minutes: but a gentleman holding his watch informed ns, it was just half a minute before lie rose. Q. What became of the foolhardy fellow? A. He made a jump at Rochester, Genesee Falls, the same year, which was his last. His body was never found. Are on tlio west side of Goat Island, near the foot. TIk^v Avere erected bv Nicholas Biddle, late president of the United States Il-nik. "Make us something," said he to the workmen, "to descend and the tene( perfi rUOSPECT TOWER. 17 er na and seo 'vvliat in below.'* Tlicso stairs arc spiral on the inside, lirnily secured by heavy iron bolts fas- tened into the solid rock, and are, wo believe, 2 perfectly safe. At tlio foot aro two paths Icadinor in opposite directions; the one up the river leads toward the Jloi-se Shoo Fall, but the path is so much obstructed by rocks Avhich have fallen, and the bank is so steep, that it is extremely dillicult to get within thirty rods of the Horse Shoo Fall. But the best view, dc]afits of the valley over him grow. Tlic Irihe lliat once ff^llowcd their cliief to tlie fight- Like the mist o'er Nia^'-ara, how vanished awav ! Far from llie land of Ihcir hirtli they liave taken their flight, 'J'he once noble, and valiant, and brave, wbere are tbey ? "Wa ^^i]\ now return to tlio hotel. Sixty rods LiImi^s us to the former residence of Francis Abbot, 11 1(3 lien nit of IS'i.'iOTra. It was an ol'd loo'-house on the cast side of the island, btit witLin a few years lias l)e('n taken down. Here lie ]i\'ed for twenty months entirely alone, as he could not be approached by a stiaiiL;'er; thougli g'cntlemanly and acconi- ])lis]ied, JiMvinp^ seen niuch of the woi'ld, and possess- iui;' a nihid i-e|)lcte ^^ith iiseftd knowledge, yet he held converse with none, except a few confidential friends. A few things wt3 Avill pass in review, in reference to this I'oiite, before avo take a trip to Canada, or leave tliis enchanting sj^ot forever, I IMS Ol' CiO^f j3lQi]9. Iris or (^Toat Island contains sixtv-nine and a half acres, is a fraction over a mile in circumference, and Iieavily timbered. Most of the smootli bark trees are m.'U'ked with initials bearina* dilferent dates. "In ISO.")," says Judge Porter, ''there was a beech tree on the bank near the Horse Shoe Fall, marked LOCAL DISTANCES. 2Y 1779, 1771 and 1772." The Dames of tliese early ti'avelers are not recollected. No sportsman is allowed to carry a gun on to this island, as it would eiulaiia'cr the lives of those who are promenading through it. It is called (jloat Island, from the circumstance of a man by the name of Stedman, at a very early date, having put some goats upon it. It is a wild, rural and delightful re- treat ; in the hottest days, there is always a refresh- ino: and invie »■ m witli distin^'t -S8 At all events, the L mar Jio,¥ is peculiar to ^ui^ place. a)ieb of fl)e l^[\$ nl Hlgi}f. An evening view has a very dilferent eiiect upon the mind of the beholder, than when seen in the daytime. The moon-beams playing upon the agi- tated waters ; the spray, like the smoke of a volcano, rising into the sky; the endless roar of the cataract, mingled with the heart's deepest impressions, give such an indescribable sublimity and grandeur, that language is but a poor vehicle to convey the impres- sions we feel. illeb of fl)e Tf\\i$ ^i §i(i]lM3C. This view is thought, by thousands, to be per- fectly unsurpassed; and has no rival in grandeur, sublimity, and interest. Every point of time, how- ever, is different, and has its different effect uj)on the beholder. illelv of fl)e T^IU ^i §i|i?3ef. When the sim has rolled onward in his chariot of fire, and thrown his last rays upon Niagara, bid- ding adieu, for the night, to the grandeur of the scene that so much in ])0^^■(!r resembles himself, the view is perfectly indescribable. so EVERY MAX III3 OWN GUIDE. ?ioiil' of ll|e Iiilig. • This depends mucli upon tke >vind, and the state of the atmospLere. yoniotinies, every door and window, the least ajar, for a mile in circiiniferenco, will tremble — caused by the concussion of the air ; and the roar may be heai'd from fifteen to twenty-livo miles. At other times our citizens would scarcely know that there were falls in the iieiu'hborhood. *' In a few instances," says Mr. Hooker, the oldest guide to the Falls, "they have be^'n heard at To- ronto, a distance of forty-four miles." T\\'$i Ih)&l*ij^aiOi]$ of ^f^qiigcl^^. At first sight, strangers are sometimes disap- pointed ; either their expectations have been raised too high, or the sublimity, grandeur, and magnifi- cence of the scene far surpasses every thing they could possibly^have anticipated. The second view is fj-equently more impressive than the first. The longer the visitor tarries, the more he enjoys and appreciates; the impression is indelibly enstamped upon liis memory, and for years infixed there, as Avith the imprint of a sun- beam. The Falls, it is true, when seen from above, do not appear more than fifty or sixty feet high ; but let the visitor go below, if he would get a correct impression of this stupendous work. Beauty, RISK AND FALL OF THE RIVER. 31 e d grandeur, and awful sublimit}-, cnstamp upon his heart, those emotions he never can express. ^l$c> of l[)e I^IbeK Those causes y\'hkh swell other nvei*s, have no effect upon this. It never rises unless the wind has been blowing down Lake Erie in a westerly direc- tion. S. Ware, Esq., who has kept the ferry for seventeen years, says, " one foot on the top of the Falls, will, by actual mcjisurement, raise it seventeen and a half feet below." This is attributable to the river being pent up in a very narrow pass at the Whirlpool, and cannot find its way out as fast as it accumulates above. Iqll of il)e ^Ibcl'. From Lake Lrie to Lake Ontario, (36 miles,) 339 feet; from Lake Erie to the head of Goat Island, (22 miles,) 25 feet; from the head of Goat Island to the main fall, (luJf a mile,) 50 feet; perpendicu- lar height of the American Fall, 164 feet; on the Canada side, 158 feet; from the Falls to the Whirl- pool, (2^ miles,) 64 feet; from the Whirlpool to Lake Ontario, (11 miles,) 25 feet. Total in 36 miles between the two lakes, 339 feet ' 82 EVERY MAN niS OWN GUIDE. i^libe. In some instances they do — but generally are in a wounded, mutilated state. On the morning of • the 10th September, 1841, more than four hundred ducks were picked up, dead, having gone over the night previous. If fish should take a perpendicular direction, they might survive. But if they should strike flatwise, it would, in our opinion, kill them as suddenly as if they fell on a rock. The usual crossing place is 2 1-2 miles above the Falls; though sail-boats and canoes, when the wind is blowing up the river, have crossed much nearer. It is thought by many, who have visited the Falls at this season, that it far surpasses that of summer. The icicles, in the shape of inverted cones, hanging from the high banks, the dazzling splendor of an eti'ulgent sun darting his fiery beams upon them ; the frozen spray, clothing the trees in its silvery robe ; the roar of the ice, as it rushes on- • "Ward to try the fearful leap ; the ceaseless thundei 1)3 )f THE AMERICAN AND HORSE-SHOE FALLS, FROM THE CANADA SIDE. See Page 42. THE FIRST MAN WHO SAW THE FALLS. 33 of the cataract, the bow of promise, smiling se- renely upon the angry Hood; the enchained river within its icy embrace, struggling like some mon- ster of the deep to be free, all combine to render the scene awfully grand and terrific. No language is adequate to give a correct impression; it must be seen before it can be appreciated. I(](j Ili^^f ^VFqi) l\5!)o ?qiii ll]e Iqlls. The first vy^hite man who saw the Falls, as far as we have any authentic record, was Father Henne- pin, Jesuit missionary, sent out from the French among the Indians, as early as the year IGVS, 174 years since. Ills descriptions were visionary, and ex- ceedingly exaggerated. He thought the Falls si-x or seven hundred feet high, and that four persons could walk abreast under the sheet of water, without any other inconvenience than a slight s|)rinkling from the spray. But w^e would not attribute this wild and fanciful description, to a want of candor, or an in- tention to deceive. The fact probably was, he had no moans of measuring its height, and undoubt- edly got his account from the Indians, which very likely would be incorrect. The Indians, it is said in Judge De Veaux's works, have a tradiiiou that two human beings, yearly, will 3* 34 EVERr MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. be sacrificed to the Great Spirit of these Waters. Whether any reliance can be placed upon the tra- dition of the Indians or not, it is nevertheless true,* that almost every year has proved fatal to some one. A few instances, only, can be mentioned. John York, who is supposed to have gone over the Falls, as pieces of his boat, and part of the loading were picked up below, 28th Nov. 1841. William Ken- nedy was in the boat with him, and found dead- on Grass Island, just above the Raoids, Dr. Hungerford, of West Troy, was killed by a rock falling upon him, between Biddle Stairs and the Cave of the Winds. May 27, 1839. J. H. Thompson, of Philadelphia, was washed off of a rock below the Falls, under the great sheet of water, by leaving the guide and venturing too far upon places of danger. August 16, 1844. Miss Martha K. Rugg, from Lancaster, near Bos- ton, Mass., while picking a flower, fell over the bank, just below Barnett's Museum, (Canada side,) one hundred and fifteen feet August 23, 1844. She lived about three hours. Charles Smart, from Philadelphia, fell about forty feet from a rock in the Cave of the Winds. Aug. 31,1846. Killed instantly. John Murphy, aged fourteen years, son of a CASUALTIES. 35 e. re widow lady, of our village, attempting to cross the river in a canoe, about a mile above the Falls, was drawn into the current and went over. His body has never been found. June 13, 1847. A son of Mr. White, aged five years, and his sis- ter about one year and a half older, were playing in a canoe ; it floated out into the stream ; the ag- onized mother beheld this heart-rending scene — she rushed into the river nearly up to her neck — rescued the girl, the boy went over. He was last seen sitting in the bottom of the canoe, holding on to each side with his hands. July 9, 1848. His body has never been found. A gentleman from Buffalo, supposed to be on an excursion of shooting ducks; his boat was drawn into the rapids above the Grist Mill — seen by sev- eral of our citizens to pass under the Bridge — heard to exclaim, " can I be saved." * His boat, with the velocity of lightning, passed on, dashed against a rock nearly opposite the Chair Factory, he was thrown out — went over feet foremost, near the American shore. August 25, 1848. He has never been found. A Mrs. Miller cut her shawl in pieces, tied them together, hung it over the Bridge leading to Goat Island, intending doubtless to impress the belief that she had let herself down into the angry flood, and had gone over the Falls. Very few of our citizens 36 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. believed it, as there was too mucli pains taken, for the purpose of committing suicide ; it was all a farce, as she was heard from at Syracuse and other places, a few davs after. Some love affair occasioned this wild freak. Her little children were very kindly taken care of by Hon. A. Porter, until her friends at Detroit could be informed of the occurrence, and they removed to their home. Her father, a very respectable lawyer, died soon afterward, it was thought of a broken heart. A gentleman from Troy, N. Y., in the winter of 1852, while passing over the Bridge to the Tower, fell into the river, was instantly carried to the verge of the precipice, and lodgf.d between two rocks. Mr. Bruster I . Davis rescued him, by throwing some lines in the direction ; he had just sufficient strength left to tie them around his body, and they drew him to the Bridge, whence he was taken to the Falls Hotel. He remained speechless for several houi-s, but finally recovered and returned to his home. There are not as many accidents in proportion to the number who visit the Falls, as among our citi zens. Strangers are generally more careful and timid, cautious how they approach places of appa- rent or real danger, until satisfied of their perfect safety. Some have a more fool-hardy adventure in ACCIDENTS TO STRANGERS. 37 3 their constitutions ; will pass into crags and rocks, where human beings never ought to go. This is not only dangerous, but it is perfectly uncalled for, as all the wildness of this terrific scene can be viewed without running the least risk. It has frequently been remarked to the author, both by ladies and gentlemen, while standing upon some giddy point, say an isolated rock, on the west side of Prospect Tower, on the very brink of the Falls, " I have a great mind," say they, " to give a jump; do you think it would hurt me." The rea- son of this disposition doubtless is, they are not accustomed to stand upon such afrightfid eminence. There is, unquestionably, a determination of blood to the brain, which produces a partial derangement. Some are of that nervous temperament, constitu- tionally formed, that they become dizzy in looking down from almost any height, though at other times they might face the cannon's mouth, and hear it thunder, without moving a muscle, yet here they are afraid. These remarks are not made to alarm, or in the least to detract from the interest of the stranger's visit, but to caution. The author, until recently, for many years acted as a Guide ; he will relate an inci- dent, as exemplifying the above remarks : a young lady was standing upon Table Rock, on the very verge of the precipice, the wind at the time blowing 88 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. strong from the Canada shore; she appeased amazed, bewildered, and lost amid this overwhelm- ing, enchanting scene. Madam, said I, are you not unnecessarily exposing yourself? While laying my hand slightly upon her shoulder. Oh ! she replied with a smile, I could jump off here, and sail away like a balloon, without injury; and with much en- treaty, she was prevailed upon at length to leave this dangerous spot. She observed afterward to her mother, who very pleasantly reprimanded her for this daring freak, I did not feel the least fear, or dread, and was not aware that I was in any dan- ger ; " I thought I could fly." In many other in- stances, I have observed in some strangers the san>e disposition ; regardless of fear or danger, or the ad- vice of friends they often feel disposed, they say, to try the fearful leap ; w^e know these are facts, and leave the subject for writers on mental philosophy to enlarge upon, and assign the cause. thousands, in the summer season, when the weather is fair, promenade through the Island at night — it is a delightsome treat. ^The carriage-road is fine, the dark forest, in all its native grandeur, is around them, not a breath moves the surroundinir foliage, the moon pouring a flood of mellow lighu through the openings of the trees, the silence of (lea roa eur to api LUNAR BOW. 89 death is only interrupted by Niagara's ceaseless roar, filling the mind with emotions of awe, grand- eur, and sublimity, which it is perfectly impossible to describe. It must be viewed before it can be appreciated. 5 Ii}e |lip]i|h Bob. Can only be seen about once a month, or when the moon is within two or three days previous or after its full. The reason is, there is not light enough to form the Bow. The best points to view this grand spectacle are, at the foot of Goat Island, on Luna Island, and Prospect Tower. If the sky is 'clear, the wind right, and the atmosphere favorable, an entire arch can be seen. The author has fre- quently seen a whole arch, with three colors very distinct, and w^e are inclined to believe, as far as we can learn from travelers, this is the only place on the globe, where a rainbow at night, in the form of an arch, can be seen at all. It is indescribably gr:*nd, worthy the attention of the tourist, and will amply pay him for a trip to the Island, to behold. " Thou hast told me right," said a party of Qua- kers, from Philadelphia, to the author, " this sight alone, is sufficient to pay us for a journey to the Falls." The mind takes a wild and sublime range, but its emotions cannot be expressed. CHAPTER II. 2i Joiji* fo £mh ^i) ifJ^D of fl]e leMrj;. If the visitor is at the Cataract House, take the first left hand street^ then turn to the right at the old Curiosity Shop. If at the Falls Hotel, pass the Buf- falo and Niagara Falls railroad depot, incline to the ricjlit. If at the St. Lawrence Hotel or the Niagara House, pass up M^ihi street, pjiss the depot as above, and three or four minutes walk brings you through a pleasant grove to the Ferry. The Ferry House is within eight rods of tho American Fall. Cars lead dow^n the bank to the water's edge, on an inclined plane of thirty-one de- grees, worked by water-power. Distance, twe^ity- two and a half rods, or tw^o hundred and ni/.ety steps. The usual time in descending and crossing the river to the Canada shore, is about ten miLu.tes, "This Ferry," says Judge Porter, the propiietor, "has been in operation more tlian forty years; luA during all that time not a single life has been ioi^tj or a serious accident occurred." And this, perhaps, is more than ciin be said of FERRY AMERICAN SIDE. 41 any other ferry in the United States. The boats which ply back and forth ahnost every iiiouient in the day, when seen from the high bank, ai)pear, a.s they dance upon the agitated waves, exceedingly diminutive and insecure; yet they will safely carry thirty pei-sons. At the foot of the stairs, or where the cars stop, if there is little or no wind, or if it is blowing up the river, let him turn short round to the left. He can approach within a few feet of tho American Fall, without inconvenience fiom the spray. It is, in the opinion of the writer, one of the most grand and sublime views on the American side. At no other point do we get as correct an impression as to the height of the American Fall. The reason is, we are below, nearer the falling sheet, and are looking up. This remark holds good every- where; if we would get a correct idea of heights, we must be below and look up. — Questions by the visitor while crossing the river: How high is the American Fall? A. One hundred and sixty -four feet, perpendicular. Q. Do they go under that fall ? A. Never ; an attempt was made a f«w years since, but it was abandoned as a hopeless effort. Q. How deep is the river ? A. In the center it averages two hundred fifty feet, for a mile up and dov,n. Q. What is the cause of this dark, green color? A. This has never been satisftictorily explaine^l; some think it is in the fohage, but this must be a I 1 42 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. mistake ; the same ajipearance is seen in tlio \^•illter as well as iu the suiiiuier. The most i)i'ol)able rea- son appears to the writer to be its depth. We would willingly exchange this opinion for a better, whenever it can be made to appear it is erroneous. Charges for crossing the ferry, including the cars, is eighteen and three-quailers cents. Here the visitor will be annoyed by all that cease- less jargon of runners and solicitors, so usual in all the great thoroughfares of this country. There is a good carriage-road up the bank, and if the visitor feels disposed, he can walk at his leisure, and thus have more time to contemplate and a})preciate this wonderful scene. If he prefers riding, he can get a good carriage, with careful drivers, to take him to Table Rock, generally for t\\elve and a half cents. It would be advisable to make a baigain before you stai-t, as the drivel's will sometimes tell you they will carry you for a shilling, meaning Canada currenc}^ One shilling of that money is twenty-two cents on this side. Price of carriages by the hour, for the party, on that side, is usually seventy-five cents. This is a large hotel on the Canada side, at the fX)p of the hill, as you descend the bank. Great Ml'SEUM. 43 li\ expense by tlie eiitoqirisino- propiii'tor lias recently beeu laid out in additions to the bniiding, pleasme- garden, and residences lor piivate faniilit's. It cer- tainly is an excellent location, coniniandin<^ a view of the American and Horse Shoe Fall. J'^ighty rods below, on the edge of the bank, is Victoria Point. Directly opp<^site the Clifton House, the other side of the street, is Mr. Holloway's, one of the most celebrated artists in this country. lie spends his time in painting views of the Falls. Several small shops on the road-side where Indian work and refreshments are sold. I i) e ?if i| 3 e 11 h) Is near Table Rock. The galleries are arranged so as to represent an entii'e forest scene, and con- tain upward of ten thousand interesting specimens. Birds, Amimals, Fish, Minerals, &c., a great vari- ety of which were collected in the immediate vicin- ity. Charge for admittance, is 25 cents. This includes the Camera Obscura, Buffaloes, tfcc. About twenty rods below the Museum, is the point where Miss Martha K. Rugg fell over the bank, one hiin-^ dred and fifty feet perpendicular. (See Casualties.) The next grand, and all absorbing point of interest, is Table Rock. r t 44 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. ,ifc i .'. Is on the Canada side, connected witli the great Horse Shoe Falls, and the terminus of the carriage- road in this direction. It was formerly about fifteen rods long, and three wide, and projects over the precipice from fifty to sixty feet Thousands of the most timid have stood upon this giddy emi- nence with perfect safety, and gazed upon the re- splendent grandeur of this enchanting, bewildering scene. While contemplating it, the mind is lost, and sinks back upon itself, amid the immensity of God's works. And we hazard not too much in say- ing, there is nothing on the globe that compares with this view, in point of sublimity and interest. " I have," said a sea captain to the writer, who had followed the ocean for forty years, " seen the Mael- strom, the Burning Mountains, and all the wonders of the globe, but this is the most sublimely inter- esting of all." Two large portions of Table Rock have Mien within a few years, but have detracted but little from this grand view. Directly in rear, is the Prospect House, on the top of which is a Camera Obscura, and a splendid view of the Horse Shoe, and the Rapids. The charge for seeing the Camera, is 12 1-2 cents. Tho emotions excited while passing under the grea utab age, deal less incrc . and the m ! COURAGE OF LADIES. 45 reat Jen the of great sheet, are exceedingly variable. It is attrib- utable, perhaps, to our state of health, physical cour- age, or nervous temperament. Some have a good deal of adventure in their constitutions — bold, fcir- less and determined : as the interest of the scene increases, difficulties vanish. Others are more timid and fearful, but equally resolute. And as far as the writer can judge from the countenances and ex- pressions of those who have accompanied him, the feehngs that involuntarily arise, are those of relig- ious awe. We may have been schooled in infidelity, and taught to believe there is no God; but during our stay at the Falls, and especially under them, let the individual be an Atheist, if he can. (Im- possible.) On returning, about fifty feet from the bottom of the stairs, let the visitor paus0 for a mo- ment, and look up. " I did not," said a lady to the author, in company with her husband, from South Carolina, " feel the least agitated while under the falling flood; but at this point I trembled; not from any real or a})parent danger; but my nerves, for a moment, seemed to give way." She soon regained her composure. " That scene," continued she, " is "worth a journey across the globe." Goiii-^ge of J.^ih$, " Do ladies ever go under the Falls ? " is a ques- tion frequently proposed. Certainly, thousands — I ii 46 EVERVr MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. and their numbers are nearly equal to those of the gentlemen, and their courage often surpasses them. No accident has ever occurred, unless from careiess- Tjcss, or the uncalled-for adventure of some thought- less traveler, in rushing out upon places where hu- man beings never ought to go. There is an iron driven into the side of the rock, at the termination of the path. Visitors usually lay their hands upon this iron. At this point you can see all that can be seen, with perfect safety. Two or three feet beyond tliis, your path is intercepted by a perpendicular rock, which rises twenty or twenty-five feet from the angry flood below. This is called " Tei'mination Rock." As much as to say^ " you can approach me, with safety; but, beyond, you cannot go — here let thy proud steps be stayed." Some clamber down this rock to the water's edge; but this is in* called-for, as all the wildness of this magnifici ; place is seen without running the least i-isk. If the visitor lias time, and feels disposed, the next object of interest is the Burnino: Sprino* — a good carriage-road, and a delightful ride. This Spring is situated two miles above the Falls, on the Canada side; near the water's edge. It is the carbonated sulphuretted hvdroiren a'^is, tint burns. Touched with a match it o-ives out a brilliant CHIPPEWA LUNDY S LANE. 47 flame rising two or three feet liigli. Many are very iniicli interested, and to those who liave never seen any thing of the kind, it is an object of a good deal of interest. Charges, 12 1-2 cents. The village of Chippewa is on the British side, two and a half miles above the Falls. A few sol- h been iiers'*" nave been stationed here since the Patriot "VVar of '37 — '38. Landino- of the British steamer Emeiald, from ButTalo, N. Y. The terminus of the railroad from Queenston, connected with the British and American steamers for Toronto, Kings- ton, Montreal, and Quebec. A steamer plies daily from Chippewa to Buffalo. Lundy's Lane, is a mile and a quarter from the Falls, on the Canada side. The battle, in its hot- test fury, was fought principally in the night, with the bayonet; Gen. Peter B. Porter commanding the volunteers — Generals Brown and Scott w(3§nded, llyal and Drummond, (British generals,) wounded and taken prisoners. This, it is said, was the se- verest battle ever fuuo-ht on this continent. British had, in killed and wounded, 877. Americans, 860. * They Lave since been removed to Toronto, C. W I ii ■ 48 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. It was a drawn game — both parties claiiriing the victory. July 25, 1814. The above was taken from General Brown's ofTi- cial report to the Secretary of War. For a descrip- tion of Drummondville, where this battle was fought, see large map by the author, accompanying this work. This is sometimes blended with the Chip- pewa battle, but it is a mistake; Chippewa battle was fought near the Burning Spring. July 5, 1814. If the visitor ascends to the top of a hi^li Pa- goda, on the battle-ground, he gets an excellent view of the surrounding country. Charges are from 12 1-2 to 25 cents. The visitor can return to the Clifton House, and cross at the Ferry. Charge for crossing to the American shore, is 12 1-2 cents; if he rides up on the Cars, 6 1-4 cents more; or, he can continue his route to the Suspension Bridge, cross, and return to his Hotel on this side. (See Chapter 3.) From the water's edge, to the Clifton House, 106 rods. From the Crifton House to Table Rock, 2!20 ** From Table Rock to Lundy's Lane Battle- Ground, 11^ miles; To the Burning Spring, 2j^' ** To Chippewa, 3 ** FALL OF TABLE ROCK. 49 To tlie Whirlpool, 4}{ miles. To Brock's Monument, 1}^ •* Number of Spiral Steps near Table Rock, 87 lijll of Iqble l^oclf. On the 26th of June, 1850, our citizens were startled with the report, that Table Rock had fallen. Many of us instantly repaired to the place, to wit- ness, for ourselves, an event we had long expected. "What a chasm ! What a tremendous crash ! The rocks heaved, the earth trembled for a moment, as if collecting her mighty energies to heave from her bosom this cumbersome load, and hurl it, in spite of all resisting power, into the dark, yawning abyss below, which, like an enraged monster of the deep, devoured all at once, and whose voracious jaws are widely distended for another meal. Nearly half an' acre, 200 feet long, 60 wide, and 100 thick, fell into the river, and almost every particle disap- peared from sight. The noise produced by this fallen rock, was something like the rumbling of an earthquake. It was heard four or five miles on each side of the river. There was some fifteen minutes pause, the earth was again in motion, and then another crash. The ponderous load rolled with the velocity of lightning, and sunk far down into the deep below. Fortunately, no lives were lost, though some forty or fifty persons were stand- ing upon the rock but a few moments before. A 6 I 1 60 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. blind man, wlio sells views of different cities and the Falls, felt the rock begin to move, and succeeded in reachiiio-a place of satety, just in time to escape this lieadlonjr plunge. An omnibus was placed upon the rock for th<^ purpose of washing it — two persons were inside — they jumped for life, and weie saved. The horses were taken off to feed. It went over, and not a fragment was ever seen. A gentleman and lady were below; several tons fell in the path, directly before them ; they hastened to the top of the bank, and the whole went off at once. In 1818, a por- tion of Table Rock fell. In 1828, a large mass fell from the center of the Horse Shoe Falls. Another mass fell, connected with Table Rock, and extend- ing under the sheet of water toward the point of the Horse Shoe, about 150 feet long, 50 wide, and 100 deep, carrying with it a canal boat, that had lain on the verge of tlie Horse Shoe, for months. Thus nature, not satisfied with what she had done, ■ moved on, silently but triumphantly, to destroy her own works. But the natural cause, the modus ope- randi of these rocks falling, is the shale and marl below. These, by the action of .he spray, frost, and the atmosphere, wear fastest at the bottom; and when they project sufficiently far to throw them be- yond the perpendicular lin*^ of de.^cent, they crack and fall of their own weicjht. Hundreds of instances A FISSURE IN TABLE ROCK. 51 I I tliP •ses about the Falls, strikingly exemplify these remarks. There is one on the American Fall, near the shore. Another is ^-een fi-om Luna Island, extending in a fissure toward the center of the Anierican Fall ; and a third is noticed a few rods from the Tower toward the center of Horse Shoe. This commences near the Stairs, leading back from the edge about three or four rods^ an?l varying in width from three to fifteen inches. It is about 175 feet long, and 80 deep, and is seen and pointed out by almost every traveler who visited Table Rock. That portion which remains poises, appa- rently, upon a mere point, and is as destined to fall, as these waters are to roll, and it may go before night; but how long it will last, no mortal, this side of the other world, can tell. The citizens on that side have often threatened to put a blast into this crevice, and blow the whole off togotlier, which might easily be done. The visitor will be urgently importuned to go under the sheet of water by I'un- ners who are employed for the purpose, and if he wishes to do so he will judge of its safety, for him- self, after taking the above facts into consideration. Dresses and a guide will be furnished at either of the Houses, at an expense generally of 50 cents. There are not as many who go under the sheet of 62 EVERY MAN ITIS OWN GUIDE. h: r. water since, as before the rock fell. My own 0[)in- ion is, it is flot safe. Formerly, when the \vriter acted as a guide, lie had accompanied parties un- der the fallino: flood more than a hundred times at different periods; but no inducement could prevail upon him to go there now, though pei'haps he has as much nerve as most men, yet in his opinion the risk is too great, to effect so little. . It is true tliero is an indescribable something in some persons, per- haps the name of being under Niagara, which gives this impulsive desire; but when the novelty has passed, this anxiety has passed with it, and the writer has never known the person who wished to return there the second time. There may be excep- tions, but they have not come to his knowledge. While on the subject of falling rocks, it may be proper to I'emark, that rocks which lay so thick be low the American Fall, have unquestionably all rolled, at some period, from the high bank. This remai'k, in the opinion of Professor Lyell, and other geologists, holds good in every place, where large rocks are seen at the bottom of the Falls. In 1816, a rock fell just above the Museum, (Canada side,) IGO feet long, 40 wide, and 00 thick. The same year a large rock, weighing several hundred tons, fell near Biddle Stairs, on the west side of Goat Isl- and, carrying with it, in its fall, a part of the roof of the Stairs. In 1818, immense quantities of A FISSURE lis TARLE ROCK. 53 rock fell botvveen Bidelle Stairs and the Horse Shoe Fall, blocking up the path and rendering it difficult to get to the water's edge. We have time to men- tion but one instance more. Sunday afternoon, Feb. 2d. 1852, a portion of the precipice, near the tower, on the South side of Goat Island, fell with a mighty cravsh. This portion extended from the edge of the island toward the tower, being about 125 feet long, and about 60 feet; wide, of a somewhat elliptical shape, and reaching from the top to near the bottom of the fall. The next day, another piece, triangular, with a base of about forty feet, broke off just below the tower. But the next gi-eat performance was the most re- markable. Between tlie two portions that had pre- viously fallen, stood a rectangular projection, about thirty feet long, and fifteen feet wide, extending from top to bottom of the precipice. This immense mass became loosened from the main body of rock, and settled perpendicularly about eight feet^ where it now stands, an enormous column, two hundred feet high, by the dimensions above. The severity of the winter, and the lonof continuance of the intense cold, have doubtless produced these results. They are splendid exhibitions of the power of frost, in releas- inc: this mass of rock from its kindre/ stratum. It held it within its cold embrace for a moment, then hurled it, with the might of a giant, into the chasm I 1 il 64 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. !■ ; 1.1 f below. And they strikingly exemplify the i^osifcon of Professor Lyell, in reference to the recession of the Falls, which is found on another page. £ji(H)ii]C( of ll)e Gql^olioe. If a ship on fire at sea, at night, in a thunder- storm, is grand and terrific, no less so was the steam- boat Caroline in flames, as she was loosed from her moorings at the old landing, near Fort Schlosser, and towed out into the middle of the river, by the com- mand of Col. McNabb, a British ofiicer. Here she was abandoned and left to her fate. The night was intensely dark. She moved steadily on — a broad sheet of lurid flame shot high into the heavens, illu- ming the western clouds with its red glare — rockets were ascending from the Canada shore, expressive of the success of the expedition. A universal shout, rings out upon the night air, from the party who have just left the doomed boat. She enters the rapids at . the head of Goat Island, nearest the Canada shore, careens over, rights, and passes on like a flaming meteor, to her final doom. Strikes upon Gull Isl- and ; swings around, awfully shattered by the con- flict, the flames rolling on for a moment, not alarmed . by Niagara's roar, but as if determined not to be encircled within its cold embrace, or be beaten bv its mighty and terrific power. The war of the ele- ments continues for an instant — the Caroline has BOUNDARr LINE. 55 pifeion nof disappeared, leaving "not a wreck behind; "and Ki- agara is victor, proclaiming to the world that its power is not lessened by the strife of men, or any* casual floating substance upon its bosom. Very few, however, beheld this grand spectacle, as it was in the night, and most of the inhabitants had retired from the frontiers. It is not our purpose, at this time, to enter into the minutia3 of this affair; suffice it, the boat was charged by the British with aiding the I'efugees by carrying provisions and arms to Navy Island, which doubtless was true. This specification was'brought before the coui-t by the British consul at the trial of McLeod for the murder of a gentleman from Butlalo who was shot on board the Caroline. It will be recollected McLeod was acquitted. The fragments of the boat that lodged on Gull Island remained there until the next spring. What was left of her after passing the rapids, went over the point of the Horse Shoe Fall. No person, we < believe, was on board. December 29, 1839. As agreed upon by the Commissioners, (Gen. P. B. Porter was one, on behalf of the U. S. govern- ment,) is in the center of the river, or deepest chan- nel, passing through the point of the Horse Shoe, through the center of Lake Erie, Lake ^Superior, and so on to the northern boundaries of the United Btates. 50 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. 5 Ml' \ ^ i: This boat was attached to a raft of saw-L)gs, and used for cooking, and as a lodging-room for the liands; but while attempting to tow this raft up the river from Chippewa, for the purpose of landing it on the American side, the rope broke, and the logs went over; but the boat was carried, by the force of the current, on to a rock, the lower side nearly out of water. It remained several months, but when the last portion of Table Rock fell, it went over. Is two and a half miles from the Falls, on the American side. It is memorable for its antiquity, and associations of the British and French, each holding alternately the possession as early as J 775. Scarcely a vestige of the ruins marks the place where it once stood. It is not visited by travelers. In the month of August, 1851, the writer accom- panied a party of Indians from the north w^est wilds of Minesota, (on their way to Washington,) to the foot of the American Falls. The wind was favor- aWe, and we approached within a few feet of the falling sheet. They gazed in rapt wonder on the mighty flood, as it rolled its angry w'aters, and fell upon the resounding rocks below. For a long time, 1 INDIAN OFFERING TO THE FALLS. 57 lli. md Ithe (the it >g9 . every muscle of tlicir countenances indicated a religious awe, and their thouglits ajjpeared to be communing with some superior power. At a signal from their chief, they drew a small red pipe from their girdle, and with a great deal of solemn gestur- ing, each threw his pipe under the Falls. This, I "was told by the interpreter, was a religious offering to the Great Spii'it, that he would be propitious to them, on their journey, and return them in safety to their homes. Was this superstition, or was it true devotion? We then conducted them to the Tower, on the west side of Goat IslaufL They were induced, by some ladies and gentlemen present, to give their views of what they saw. They did so, in the follow inof words, us, far as their lanojuaj^e could be interpreted. " Brothers," said the chief, " we live in tlie woods, far toward the setting: sun. Our Fathei*s once owned these lands, and this river; they have told us of these Falls, but now we see them. Brothel's, you are great, but you cannot stop this watei* ; you cannot put your hand on its mouth and make it still. Yonder," pointing to the clouds, " is the great Spint ; he made these, and this is his work ; and yonder," pointing to the rainbow, (which at the time shone most brilliantly,) "we see his face — we see him smile. We shall tell our cliila: ages, hare roamed fearless through the forest here; but now they are all gone — a few squirrels, pheas- ants and ducks are only to be met with. Occasion- ally a bald eagle is seen sailing high in air, whose eye is not dimmed by the noontide blaze, and dart- ing its fiery look upon the raidtitudes who congre- gate upon the banks of this mighty river, and with a piercing scream, soaring away to the lands unknown. At Fort Schlosser, two and a half miles above the Falls, a few white and black bass are taken, and those who are expert, often catch the pickerel and the pike, and considerable quantities of different kinds are sometimes taken in nets. The angler is frequently more successful below Biddle Staii's, west' side of Goat Island. 2l ^ i( 3 e ii) e K) f 3 • Nature has done much to amuse, art but little. A ball-alley, billiard-table, cotillion parties ai*e the principal. There is a Presbyterian, an Episcopahac, a Methodist, a Baptist and a Catholic church. ;.l'i HOTELS INDIAN CUUIOSITIES. 83 he; s- n- se i-t- re- ith ds if of Cl3. The Cataract House is considered amonfr the first class houses in the United States. Falls Hotel, St. Lawrence and Niagara House, are all very good, and are well patronized during the visiting season. A large stone building, occupying the place where the celebrated Mr. Rathbun commenced about six- teen years since, is now open for the accommodation of visitors. lK)Oiiio Gi(IrIo3lfIe3. The great Indian store directly opposite the Cat- aract House, is the most extensive in the state. At the old Curiosity shop, toll-gato and on Goat Island, are also large assortments of Indian, moose-hair, Quaker and other kinds of work for sale. ' u I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^KfilSi UA ^ |2.2 I.I i:^ m L25 i^ 11^ /'I ^^ js^;^"' ^p. /^ ^:^^'.^ '^W 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation ^1, •>^ \ ^\ \\ ^ 23 WiST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4S03 4 ^ <\ . O^ CHAPTER V. \ 1^ece33io^ of it)e I^li^. Professor Lyell says : — " The first feature whic] strikes you in this region is the escarpment, or line of inland cliffs, one of which runs to a great distance east from Queenston. On the Canada side it has a height of more than three hundred feet. The first question which occurs when we consider the nature of the country, is, how cliffs were produced ; why do we so suddenly step from this range to the gypseous marls, and then so suddenly to the subjacent shale and sandstone. We have similar lines of escarpment in all countries, especially where the rock is limestone ; and they are considered to be ancient sea-cliffs, which have become more gentle in their slope, as the country has emerged from the ocean. You may perhaps ask if the Ontario may not once have stood at a higher level, and the cliffs been produced by its action, instead of that of the ocean. Some of you may have rode along the ridge road, as it is called, that remarkable bank of sand which exists parallel, or nearly so, to the present borders of Lake Ontario, at a considerable height above it. I perfectly agree with the general opinion respecting this, that it was I. RECESSION OF THE FALLS. 85 the ancient boundary of Lake Ontario. In somo pai-ts of it fresh water shells have been found. You cannot explain the escarpment by the aid of the ac- tion of the lake, for it extends farther and not in the same direction. When the land emerged gradually from the sea, as it is now doing, the sea w^ould natu- rally create those sea-clifFs, and during the upheaval they would of course become inland. In Europe, proofs that limestone rocks have been washed away are abundant. In Greece, in the Morea, this is especially conspicuous. We have there three limestones one above the other, at various distances from the sea. Along the line you may see literal caves worn out by the action of the waves. The action of the salt spray, which has also effected a sort of chemical de- composition, is also easily to be observed. So com- pletely is this the case with each of these lines that you cannot doubt for an instant that here is a series of inland cliffs; and this phenomenon being so cer- tain in the Morea, leads us by analogy to infer that these escarpments of the district were produced by a similar cause. It is not disputed that there is some change going on at the falls, even now. There occurs, as we know, occasionally a falling down of fragments of rock, as may be seen at Goat Island. The shale at the bot- tom is destroyed in consequence of the action of the epray and frost ; the limestone being thus undermined, 86 EVERT MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. falls down ; and it has been believed that in this way there has been a recession of about fifty yards in about forty years ; but this is now generally admitted to have been overstated. There is at least a probable recession of about one foot every year : though part of the fall may go back faster than this ; yet if you regard the whole river, even this probably will be something of an exaggeration. Our observations upon this point are necessarily imperfect ; and when w^e reflect that fifty years ago the country was per- fectly wild, and inhabited by bears, wolves, and here and there a hunter, we shall think it surprising that we have any observations at all, even for such a period back. We have an account of the falls, given by Father Hennepin, a French Missionary, who gives an exaggerated description of them, and yet one which is tolerably correct. He represents a cascade as falling from the Canada side across the other two. He says that between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, there is a vast and wonderful waterfall ; after speaking of this, he says there is a third cascade at the left of the other two, falling from west to east, the other falling from south to north. He several times alludes to the thi: 1 cascade, which he says was smaller than the other two. Now, those who consider that be- cause Father Hennepin gave the height of the falls at six hundred feet, small value is to be attached to his testimony respecting any part of the country, do 'i EECESSION OF THE FALLS. 87 '\ him injustice. I think it perfectly evident tliat there must have been such a third cascade, falhng from west to east, as that to which he alhides. A Danish naturahst, in the year 1750, who came to this country and visited the fiills, of which he has also given us a descrii:>tion, which was published in the Gentleman's Magazine, in 1751, also gives a view of the Falls. In its general features his description agrees well with that of Father Hennepin. He went seventy-three years after him, and there was then ti(> third cascade. But the point where Father Hennepin had put his cascade, he had marked, and says that, " that is the place where the water was forced out of its direct course by a prodigious rock, which turned the w^ater and obliged it to fall across the falls." He goes on to say, that only a few years before, there had been a downfall of that rock ; which was un- doubtedly part of the table rock ; and after that the cascade ceased to flow. Now, it does not appear whether he had ever seen Hennepin's account or not, he only mentions the fact that there had been a third cascade ; and it is a striking confirmation of the accuracy of Father Hennepin's description. We find these two observers, at an interval of seventy years apart, remarking on the very kind of change •which w^e now remark as having taken place within the last fifty years; an undermining of the rock, and a falling down of the limestone, and a consequent 88 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. obliteration of the fall. Every one wh^ has vis- ited the Falls, on inquiring of the gui^les about the changes that have taken place, may have been told that the American Fall has become more cres- cent shaped than it was thirty years ago, when it was nearly straight. The center has given way, and now there is an indentation of nearly thirty feet. The Horse Shoe Fall also has been considerably al- tered. It is not of so regular a crescent shape as formerly, but has a more jagged outline, especially near Goat Island ; it has less of the horse-shoe shape, from which it derives its name, than when it was gi\'en. It is quite certain that things there are not stationary; and the great question is, whether, by this action, the whole Falls have been reduced in this manner. From representations made by other travelers, I was desirous of ascertaining whether fresh water remains were found on Goat Island, as had been said ; for it would be striking, if on this island there should be a stratum of twenty-five feet of sand and loam, pebbles and fresh water shells. They were found there, and I made a collection of several species of shells found on the island ; among them were the planorbis, a small valvata and sev- eral other kinds. They were of kinds generally found living in the rapids, in the river above, or in the lake. In digging a naill-race there, only a few yeara ■' I RECESSION OF THE FALLS. 89 Jet. fiince, there were found a great number of slicUs, and also a tooth of a mastodon, some twelve or thirteen feet below the surface. It was the common Ohio mastodon, and must have been buried beneath these twelve or thirteen feet of fresh water deposit, ono layer at a time, each containing different shells. Jn answer to my question, whether similar shells w^ere ever found lower down ? the guide said he would take me to a place, half a mile below, where the strata had been laid open. We found there depos- ited in the rock a small quantity of fresh water shells, showing that this old deposition extended down to that distance. Here we have proofs that the river once stood at a higher level, and in a tranquil state ; and there is every appearance of the rock having been like a solid barrier to hold the waters back in a lake-like state, so that they might throw down those fresh water deposits at that height. You will, understand this better, if you consider that if the Falls go on receding, no matter at what rate, — an inch, a foot, a yard, a year, — in the course of time the whole must recede considerably from its present condition. What proofs should we have of tliis afterward ? You will easily see that if the river should cut its way back to a certain point, the effect would be to remove the rocky barrier, the limestone of the rapids, which has been sufficient to pond the river back. Sut if the river cuts its way back, this DO EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. barrier could no longer exist ; the channel would be deepened, and the deposits existing high and dry upon tlie land, would become proof of the recession. This kind of proof we have, that the Falls have re- ceded three miles from the Whirlpool, the limestone having been higher at the Whirlpool than the river at the Falls. It may be well to say, that the beds all dip to the south, at the rate of about twenty-five feet in a mile. In seven miles the dip causes a gen- eral rise of the platform to the north, so that when at the top of the cliff, you are at a greater height than the level of Lake Erie; and if the Falls were formerly at Queenston, their height was probably near double what they now are. Mr. Hall suo-rrested that at that time the whok fall was not at one place, and I think it quite likely that such was the case. There is reason to believe that one fall was upon the quartzose sand below, and the other on the Protean bed. The upper part would of course recede faster than the lower, because it is softer, as is seen to be the case at Ilochester; but the limestone becoming thicker and harder, would recede more slowly. There may have been several falls, as at Rochester, each one of them being less high than at present, and yet the whole being nearly double its present height. I told you that the river fell about one hundred .feet between the base of the Falls and Lewiston, so RECESSION OF THE FALLS. 91 that the bed slopes at that rate. This slope of the river, and then the upward slope of the platform, are the reasons why the Falls are now of less height tlian formerly; so when we carry ourselves back in imagination to the time when the river had not re- ceded so far, we have a barrier of limestone much higher. The valley in which the river then flowed must have been much narrower than its present ra- vine. The distance now from the Canada to the American side is about three quarters of a mile, whereas at half a mile below, it is only half that distance. Farther investigations, by tracing the fresh water deposits lower, will give more precise information. You might suppose that if we find the remains of a mastodon in a fresh water deposit so lately laid dry, as that near the village of Niagara, and only twelve feet below the surface, the mastodon has lived in the country at a modern period ; you miofht think that a few centuries would have been sufficient for the accumulation of twelve feet of shelly sandstone and limestone, and that it may have been recently that this mastodon was ;juried,l when the bai'rier was at the Whirlpool, before this twelve feet of fluviatile strata were deposited. Yet these strata are older than the Whirlpool. Among the objections to the supposition that the ravine was cut out by the Niagara, one is, that at 9i! EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. the place called tlie Devil's Hole, or the Bloody Run, the ravine must have been cut by some more power- ful cause, than by a slight stream. But this I regard as no objection at all, for on ex- amining the nature of the soil, (fee, I am convinced that even the small stream which now flows, would have been perfectly competent to cut out the ravine, and that we need look for no more powerful cause. Suppose the Falls once to have been near Queens- ton, they would recede differently at different times ; faster when the soft shale was at the base, at other times slowly, when the hard sandstone was to be cut through. First of all comes the quartzose sand- stone for a certain distance; then the falls recede slowly, but more rapidly when it came to the soft shales. Then comes the sandstone again at the base, which now extends to the Whirlpool, and here the movement was slow. It probably stood for ages at the Whirlpool. Then for another period it receded more rapidly ; and it is probable that for the last mile, its recession has been comparatively slow, because the Protean group, and about twenty feet of sandstone, making about fifty feet of hard rock at the base were to be cut through. It is cer- tain that the movement now is at a faster rate, as the shale is exposed.'^ The above reasoning perfectly coincides with the opinion of Dr. Dwight, and others who have devoted ar ai sa b( d^ te It lo NIAGARA. 03 any time to the subject, and strangers, as far as tlie author has been enabled to learn, have come to the same conclusion. Is an Indian word, from Onyakarra, supposed to be the Iroquois language, as they were the first who dwelt here, as far as we know. The meaning of the term is "mighty, wonderful," thundering water. It lies in latitude 43 degrees, 6 minutes north, and longitude 2 degrees, 5 minutes west from London.^ I I CHAPTER VI. Il)e tipped £j|lie3. We will now invite the attention of tlie traveler to the head waters of the Niagara River. Lake Superior is the gi*eatest body of fresh water in the world. It is near the north-west boundary of the United States. A small river flows into it from the noith, fed by the red lakes in Canada. It lies between 4G and 49 degrees of noith lati- tude, and between 84 and 03 degrees of west longi- tude from London. It is 459 miles long, 109 wide, and 800 feet deep. In the neighborhood of Lake Superior are the greatest and richest copper mines in the world. The following are the principal rivers that flow into this inland sea: Taquamenaw, White Fish, Two Heart, Prairie, Chocolate, Dead, Garlic, St. Johns, Huron, Keewitiwana, Misery, Fhnt Steel, Octonagon, Iron, Camp, Montreal, Chippewa, Wis- consin, and several smaller ones, making forty-five small and three large rivers that empty into tliis lake. On the Iron river are peiioendicular falls of more than 600 feet, and some of the rivers are large, and navigable for hundreds of miles. The outlet THE UiTEIl LAKES. 95 ! of Lake Superior is tlie Straits of St. Mar}''s. It is J)5 niiles long, and pours its waters into Lake Huron. This lake is 218 miles lung, 180 wide, and 500 feet deep. "The boundary lino between Canada and the United States passes through the eenter of this lake. Lake Huron receives the waters of Lake Michigan, through the Straits of Mackinaw, Avhich are 15 miles long, and 10 broad. The following are some of the principal rivers that empty into Lake Huron : Saginaw, Ausable, Thunder Bay, Cheboygan, Cass, Tiltibawasse, and severed smaller ones. Lake Michigan is 300 miles long, 55 wide, and 200 feet deep. Some of the principal rivers that empty into Lake Michigan, are : the Betseys, Manis- ta, Natipekago, White, Mashegon, Grand, Kalamazoo, St. Josephs, with eight smaller liveiu Green Bay empties into Lake Michigan, on the north-west corner. It is 100 miles long, 20 wide, and ^5 feet deep. Green Bay receives the waters of Fox River, which is the outlet of Winnebago Lake. Menomo- nee, Peshtigo, Oconto, and several streams of smaller size, discharge their waters into this Bay. All the waters of the npper Lakes, the \^onder and admira- tion of the world, are united and empty into the St. Clair River, 40 miles long, and 35 feet deep. St. Clair River discharges its w^aters into St. Clair Lake, which is about 95 miles in circumference. The outlet of this lake is the River Detroit, 27 miles long, «i 96 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. 1 ■ • I and twenty-five feet deep, whicli empties into Lake Erie, which is three hundred and ninety miles long, sixty-five wide, and nine hundred feet deep. The Sandusky, the Grand, the Cuyahoga, the Maumee and several smaller rivers empty into Lake Erie. Such are the sources of Niao^ara River — inferior for splendor, grandeur, and magnificence to none on the globe. The outlet of ten lakes and more than one hundred rivers, it drains, from both, a surface of over 150,000 square miles of water. Lake Erie is three hundred and thirty-nine feet higher than Lake Ontario, (distance thirty-six miles,) and five hundred and sixty-five feet above the level of the ocean. Nias^ara River falls from Lake Erie to Goat Island, (twenty-two miles) twenty-five feet; from the head of Goat Island to the main fall, ( half a mile) fifty-two feet; perpendicular heiglit of the Falls on the American side, one hundred and sixtv- four feet; on the Canada side, one hundred and fifty eight; from the Falls to the Whirlpool, (two and a half miles) sixty-four ; from the Whirlpool to Lake Ontario, (eleven miles) twenty-five; total, three hundred and thirty-nine. We will now briefly notice some of the most important places we have passed from the head waters of Lake Superior to the Falls, and then start on our northern tour. The falls of St. Marys are between Lake Superior and Lake Huron, ofibring great hydraulic power, I THE UPPER LAKES. 97 ( which, when the country becomes more settled, must be extensively used. The Straits of Mackinaw connect Lake Michigan with Lake Huron. It is a military post. The Indians assemble here once a year to receive their annuity from the United States government. Detroit is eighteen miles from Lake Erie, situ- ated on a river of the same name. It was formerly a military post of the French, and a great depot for the fur trade. It is now the seat of an extensive commerce. Population 20,000. The Michigan Central Railroad commences at Detroit for Chicago. Distance two hundred and sixty-eight miles. Amherstburgh, (Upper Canada,) generally known by the name of Maiden, is at the mouth of the Detroit River, where, during the last war, a very se- vere engagement between the British and Americans was fought. The bones of seven hundred of the bravest sons of Kentucky lay bleaching upon the earth, the victims of the most wanton perfidy ; but the British paid dearly for this outrage, at the battle of the Thames. Sandusky is in the state of Ohio, on a bay of the same name near the head of Lake Erie — a thriv- ing, commercial place. Cars leave daily for Cincinnati. Cleveland is handsomely located, and has great commercial advantages both by the lake, Ohio and Erie canal and the Cincinnati railroad. o "i 98 4j^ EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. Ashtabula, (Ohio,) has a tolerably good harbor, but it is difficult for vessels to get in, in time of a storm. Dunkirk, (N". Y.,) of necessity must be a place of great importance, it being the terminus of the New York and Erie Railroad — through to New York in eighteen hours. Buffalo, at the outlet of Lake Erie is the great commercial emporium of western New York. It has no rival in the Empire State. The capital in- vested, the enterprise of its inhabitants, the amount of business done, cannot be surpassed. Several of the buildings are grand specimens of architecture, and would do credit to any city in America. Pop- ulation 50,000. Seven trains of cars leave daily (Sundays excepted) for Albany, Saratoga, Boston, passing through Rochester, Canandaigua, Geneva, Auburn, Syracuse, Utica, Schenectady, &c. Distance from Chicago (111.) to Buffalo, via Michigan Central Railroad, is as follows: From Chicago to New Buffalo 50 miles. '* New Buffalo to Detroit 218 " " Detroit to Buffalo 250 " Black Rock, four miles from Buffalo, possesses advantages from its hydraulic power, but does not appear to be much improved. ToNAWANtA, eleven miles from the Falls. The railroad crosses the Tonawanta creek and Erie canal, at this place. i harbor, ime of a a place IS of the to New the great 'ork. It ipital in- ) amount iveral of litecture, a. Pop- ive daily Boston, Geneva, Falo, via 50 miles, 218 " 250 « possesses does not Is. The rie canal, CHAPTER VII. Having accompanied the tourist to the sources of Niagara, we will now start on our northern tour to Montreal and Quebec, and see where the mighty river empties. But before we leave, we will count up the distances, which are as. follows: (Canada side.) Niagara Falls to Lewiston 9 — 9 Lewiston to Toronto ; steamboat 43 — 52 Toronto to Port Hope 65—117 • Port Hope to Cobourg 7—124 Cobourg to Kingston 1 10 — 234 Kingston to Brockville 52—286 Brockville to Ogdensburgh 12—298 Ogdensburgb to Cornwall 50 — 348 Cornwall to Coteau du Lac 4 1 — 389 Coteaii to Cascades 14 — 430 Cascades to Lachine -*. - 24 — 427 Lachine to Montreal 9 — 436 Montreal to La Prarie ; steamboat 9 — 9 La Prarie to St. Johns ; railroad 15 — ^24 100 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. St. Johns to Burlington ; steamboat 75 — 99 Burlington to Whitehall 75—174 Whitehall to Saiatoga ; railroad 3G— 210 Saratoga to Troy ; railroad 31 — 241 Or from Whitehall to Troy ; railroad G5 — 306 Passengers for Lake George stop at Tieonderoga. Ticondcroga to Alexandria ; stage 3 Through Lake George to Caldwell ; steamboat 36 Caldwell to Saratoga ; stage 27 Burlington to Boston ; railroad 212 Troy to New York ; steamboat 150 Troy to Boston ; railroad 206 By the Canadian mail line, passengers go througli from Niagara Falls to Montreal, in thirty-six hours, passing the Thousand Islands, and the River St. Lawrence by daylight. A short description of the places we pass on our route from the Falls* to Mon- treal, Lake Champlain, Saratoga, (Sic, will now be given. Lewiston is seven miles from the Falls, at the head of navigation on Lake Ontario. This place, together whh. Niagara Villaofe, Black Rock and Buf- falo, was laid in ruins in the war of 1812-13. "There can be little doubt," says Professor Lyell, "that the mighty cataract of Niagara poured its im- mense volumes of water here, and by a constant abrasion has receded seven miles." * Three trains of cars leave the Falls daily (Sundays ex- cepted) for Buffalo and Albany. Through to Albany in fourteen hours. NORTHERN TOUR. 101 - 99 -174 -210 -241 —306 I. 3 36 27 212 150 206 hrough i hours, ver St. I of the ;o Mon- tiow be , at the 3 place, id Biif- 112-13. ' Lyell, its im- onstant hjs ex- banj in QuEENSTON is dircctlj opposite Lewiston, at the foot of the heights generally known as the "battle of Queenston Heights." The banks below the vil- lage are seventy feet higli ; above, two hundred and thirty. The river is six hundred feet wide. A sus- pension bridge is now completed across the river, owned by a joint stock company of Canadians and Americans. Dimensions: ten wire cables; distance between towers, 1040 feet; total length of cables, 1245; length of road- way, eight hundred and forty- nine; width, twenty feet; it is estimated to bear eight hundred and thirty-live tons without breaking ; cost, £12,000 or $60,000. Brock's Monument is on Queenston Heights, (Canada side.) Height, one hundred and twenty- six feet, and from top to the level of Niagara Eiver, three hundred and ninety-six; number of steps, one hundred and seventy. It was attempted to be blown up by one Lett, a Frenchman, who nearly lost his life, by this savage freak of revenge. The followinor memorial is inscribed on the monument: " The legislature of Upper Canada has dedicated this monument to the many civil and military ser- vices of the late Sir Isaac Brock, Knight, Com- mander of the most honorable Order of the Bath, Provincial Lieutenant Governor and Major General, commandino; his Mniestv's forces therein. He fell in action on the 13th of October, 1812, honored I i 102 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. and beloved by those whom he governed, and de- plored by his Sovereign, to whose services his life had been devoted. His remains are deposited in this vault, as is also his aid-de-camp, Lieutenant Colonel John M'Donald, who died of his wounds, the 14th of October, 1812, received the day before in action." Fort Niagara, seven miles below, (American side,) stands in the angle made by the eastern bank of the river and the southern shore of Lake Onta- rio. It is in the form of a triangle : one side com- mands the river, and Fort George on the opposite bank ; another faces the lake ; the third is to defend the plain in the rear. From the light-house, the view of the lake and the opposite shore is only hm- ited by the power of the human vision. Directly opposite is Fort Massissaga; a little above is old Fort George ; just below is Newark, burned by Gen- eral McClure in 1813; directly across the lake is the city of Toronto; to the west is Burlington Heights. If this old fort* could speak, it would tell of the battles fought, the victories won, and a tale of intrigues and horror, that, even at this re- moved distance, thrills even the stoutest nerves. It was built by the French, 1725; passed into the hands of the British by the conquest of Canada; * This is the place where the celebrated Mr. Morgan (a free mason) was confined after his abduction. NORTHERN TOUR. 103 md de- his life (sited in 511 tenant rounds, before raerican rn bank :e Onta- de corn- opposite defend )use, the mly hm- Directly e is old by Gen- 1 lake is rlington t would I, and a this re- ives. It nto the Canada; Morgan surrendered by them to United States, 1796; taken and burned by the British, 1813; and surrendered again to the Americans on the restoration of peace. Fort George, or Newark, is directly opposite. The village was burnt during the last war ; which event was followed by the burning of several fron- tier villages on the American shore, as retaliatory. Fort George, near the village, is the most prominent, and perhaps the only object of interest presented. It is in a state of tolerable preservation, and has generally, since the war, been occupied as a garrison, by a small number of British soldiers. Toronto, the greatest commercial city in Upper Canada, is on an arm of Lake Ontario, thirty-six miles from the mouth of Niagara River. It aftbrds one of the best harboi-s in the world ; a thousand ships of the line can ride here in perfect safety. It is one of the most independent militaiy posts in the province. Two or three regiments of soldiers are usually stationed here. The Parliament House, the governor's residence, and many other buildings are fine specimens of architecture: population 30,000. Daily lines of steamboats cross to Hamil- ton, Niagara, and down the lake to I^ngston, Mon- treal &c. The' fii-st place the boat touches at, after leaving Toronto, is Port hope, sixty-five miles. It is a small town on the Canada side, situated on a river of the same I I 104 £VERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. name. The water-power is very considerable. It is one of the best harbors on the lake. CoBouRG is seven miles from Port Hope; a small place, and it would be difficult to call it a seaport, for nothing of the kind indicates it; population about 2000. A steamer runs from Toronto to the mouth of Genesee River, (American side,) and touches at Port Hope and Cobourg. The width of the lake at this point is eighty miles. Kingston contains 10,000 inhabitants, mostly French. It is near the outlet of Lake Ontario, one hundred and ten miles from Cobourg, and two hun- dred and thirty-four from Niagara Falls. It is a strong, and one of the most important military posts in Upper Canada. The fort commands the entire entrance of the harboi's and the navy-yard; and next to Quebec it is undoubtedly the most impreg- nable fortress in North America. If the tourist has time, he would be amply repaid for spending a few hours, or a di^y here, as there are many things to interest and instruct. The fort, navy-yard, mess- house, barracks, Is on an island thirty miles long and six broad. It presents an imposing appearance; it hes along the St. Lawrence nearly three miles ; a heavy wall sur- rounded it, but was thrown down by authority of government. The Hotel Dieu, is a huge mass of stone, erected in 1644; about thirty nuns, unier the direction of a superior, reside here; acts of benefi- cence and charity occupy their time. It contains a cathedral, the English church, seminary, convent of 106 EVERY MAN 1118 OWN GUIDE. Recollets, and the sisters of Notre Dame ; the gen- eral hospital, convent of Gray Nuns, was erected in 1758, under the immediate supervision of a superior and nineteen nuns. There are many splendid pub- lic buildings; the new cathedral, for its capacious- ness, style, and the grandeur of its decorations, is not surpassed by any edifice of a similar character, in America. Nelson's monument, the museum, college, parade ground, are all objects of interest, and at- tract the attention of the visitor. A ride round the mountains of Montreal is most delightful ; they are seven hundred feet above the level of the river, which sweeps its angry waters, in wild and tumult- uous fury past you. The tourist can visit the nun- neries, and all the important places, by having a citizen to accompany him, or procuring a pass from the chaplain or commandant of the different stations. The principal rapids before you reach Montreal, are the Longue Sault, the Cedars,* and the cascades of St. Louis; they are nine miles in length, and are passed in less than twenty minutes, (about twenty- eight miles per hour.) * It was at the rapids of the Cedars that General Am- herst's brigade of three hundred and fifty men, on attempt- ing to descend in boats, for the purpose of invading Canada, were all lost, OAving to the inexperience and bad management of the pilot ; not a soul survived. The first intimation the citizens of Montreal had of the invasion, was the dead bodies floating past the town. NORTHERN TOUR. 107 jd in erior pub- ous- not r, in at- 1 the T are We will now invite the tourist to accompany us to Quebec; distance from Montreal is one hundred and eighty miles. Splendid steamers ply between the two cities twice n day. If we take the evening boat, which leaves immediately on the arrival of passengers from the lake, we shall arrive at Quebec about seven or eight ni the morning. We first pass from Montreal, a fort on St. Ilclon's Island ; we then enter the rapids of St. Mary. Verness, on the south side of the St. Lawrence, sixteen miles from the city, is a place of considerable resort on account of the springs. At William Henry, or the Three Rivei^s, one hundred and ten miles from Montreal, the St. Lawrence is divided by two small islands into three branches, at the mouth of the St. Maurice. About fifteen miles up this river, are the Falls of Shawen- negame, of one hundred and twenty-five feet per- pendicular descent. Seven miles below the Three Rivei-s, are Richelieu Rapids; the river is not a mile wide, and rushes with gi*eat velocity. We are now approaching the Gibraltar of Amer- ica. The towers and lofty spires of this famed city, situated on a solid rock three hundred and fifty feet high, bursts upon the view. Cape Diamond, the Plains of Abraham one and a half miles from Que- bec, Point Levi on a high, precipitous rock to the right — and here we are at last. 108 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. \l Q i( e b e c Is situated on a high point of land, formed by the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles. The city is divided into two portions, called the up- per and lower towns. The upper part, the impreg- nable fortress, is reached by five gates ; on the side toward the St. Lawrence there is only one way to enter the city, and that is through Prescott gate; through this gate the commercial transactions of the city are carried on. Palace gate leads to the Ash- ley Barracks; St. Louis gate opens to the plains of Abraham, where Wolfe and Montgomery fell. If we have time we will visit the catholic church ; it is open at all hours of the day. Among the pic- tures are, the Confession ; the apostle Paul in his ex- tatic vision; the Saviour ministered unto by the angels; the flight of Joseph and Mary; the Re- deemer and the cross; the nativity of Christ; the Saviour outraged by the soldiers ; and the day of Pentecost. The monument erected to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, sixty-eight feet high, with two Latin inscriptions, has its attractions. The nun- nery and church occupy a space of eight acres, in- closed by a high wall of stone ; the inmates are, one superior, foi-ty-five aspirants, and nine novices; they are more strict than any other convent in Can- ada. Persons of high distinction only, are permitted to ex&mine the domestic arrangements of this place ; NORTHERN TOUR. 109 the bu* on application to tlie Chaplain, strangers gener- ally get permission. There ai-e the paintings of some of the popes; the birth of Emmanuel; the Saviour showing his heart to the religeuses; the Saviour takeii down from the cross; a cargo of Christians captured by the Algerines; Lewis XIII., king of France. Chapel of the Hotel Dieu. In the convent the sisterhood reside — one superior, thirty-five religi- euses, four novices, and one postulate — every thing in order. But we must not dwell long here; we have other scenes to visit, then hasten back to Montreal and Saratoga. Falls of Montmorenci are eight miles from Quebec — a good carriage-road and delightful ride ; perpendicular height of the Falls tw^o hundred and forty feet ; width, one hundred. They are beautiful and grand, impressing the mind with sentiments of awe and subhmity. When viewed from below, this mighty cascade is resplendent with all that can be realized, by the river pouring its angry waters, into the dark, deep and gloomy precipice. No part of these Falls, however, are as gi'and, sublime or ter- rific, as the Center Fall, or Cave of the Winds at Niagara ; after having viewed them from the upper window of the mill, we cross the bridge, and passing along under the brow of a high hill, we are sud- denly directly in front of the whole cataract. Here, 110 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. in the opinion of the writer, is decidedly the best view we have of this wonderful fall. From the top of this hill, Quebec, with its lofty towers, fortifica- tions, shipping, the St. Lawrence rolhng toward the ocean. Point Levi, Angel Garden, and many other points of interest are to be seen. Three hundred and sixty miles below Quebec, at the mouth of the St. Lawrence, the river is one hundred and fifteen miles wide, pouring its waters into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, (three hundred and fifty miles long, and one hundred and fifty broad,) by three different outlets. On returning to Quebec, we will pass the Lorette Lidian Village — the distance is about the same. We will now step on board the morning boat, which will land us in Montreal in the evenino:. The St. Lawrence Hall is considered the best in the city; after refreshment and sleep, we will start in the morning for Saratoga. The distances are as follows : By steamboat from Montreal to La Prairie 9 — 9 By railroad to St. Johns..." 14—23 Isle Aux Noix 14 — 37 PvQiise's Point 10—47 Clieecs? 13-60 I iJORTHERN TOUR. Ill Plattsburg .15— 75 Port Kent.^ 15— 90 Burlington 11—101 Split Kock 12—113 Essex 2 — 115 Batson Jfarbor 12 — 127 Crown Point 12—139 Ticondoroga 12 — 151 Whitehall 15—166 Saratoga 36—202 At La Prairie, nine miles from Montreal, we leave tlie steamboat, and step aboard the cars for St. Johns; distance, fourteen miles. This is quite a thriving, but a small place; it is the terminus of the steam- boat navigation on the northern bounds of Lake Champlain ; a very important point in the French and revolutionary wars; population about 1500. Lake Champlain. The line between Vermont and New York passes through the center of this lake; it is one hundred and foi-ty-one miles long, and fifteen broad. At Mount Independence, twenty-four miles from Whitehall, there is scarcely room to tui'n the boat, the lake being narrowed down to a small river. The ruins of the old forts at Ticonderoga and Crown Point are distinctly to be seen. Isle Aux Noix, fourteen miles from St. Johns, sh a military post, has alternately been in the possession of the French, the Eiighsh and the riniei icaiis. As i t : f, i 112 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. early as 1775, General Schuyler and Montgomery passed down this lake to St. Johns, on a flotilla made of logs. Rouse's Point is on the outlet of Lake Cham- plain, ten miles from Isle Aux Noix. It is a strongly fortified place, but, according to an agree- mei>*. of the British and American commissioners, to establish the boundary line between Maine and Canada this place belongs to the British. It is forty miles from House's Point to Burlington ; here are two railroad routes to Boston : the northern passes tl/rough Mount Pelica. Distance from Ogdensburg, on the River St. Lawrence to Boston, ria the Wbii^e MoucichrV, ifii four hundred and four rv^v iVj ifoHcv's: By railroad to Rouse's Point 118—11* .. Essex Junction ^ 47 — 16^ Westfield ...43—203 White River 42— 26P Concoid 69—329 Manchester 17 — 346 Nassau 18 — 364 Lowell 15—379 Boston 25—404 \' unery made /ham- is a NORTHERN TOUR. 113 Distmce from Ogdensburg, on the St. Lawrence, to Boston, via Burlington, Rutland, Bellows Falls, &c., is three hundred and ninety-three miles, as follows : By railroad to Rouse's Point 118—118 Burlington 40 — 158 Rutland 67—225 Bellows Falls 53—278 Keene 22—300 Ashburnham 32—332 Fitcliberg 11—343 Croton Junction 15 — 358 Boston 35—393 On the northern route to Boston from Burlington, travelers w^ishinfj to visit the White Mountains leave at the White River Junction. Daily stages run to the foot of the White Mountains; distant forty miles. When these lofty piles, rearing their majes- tic heads far above the clouds, first burst upon the bewildered gaze of the traveler, the effect is perfectly overpowering; he feels that language is but a poor vehicle to convey the emotions of awe, grandeur and svd^limity that fill his soul, and he sinks back upon himself amid the immensity of God's works. There is no place, perhaps, where the mind is more com- pletely bewildered, in endeavoring to grasp at tha illimitable landscape that is presented to his view. They are the loftiest in America except the Rockj Mountains. ) t 114 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDK* The height of the principal peaks, above tho level of Connecticut River, has been estiimted by engineers as follows: Mount "Washington. 5352 feeti Mount Adams 5384 " Mount Jeflferson 5263 " Mount Monroe 4934 ** Mount Quincy 4471 *' From the top of Mount Washington, the Atlantic Ocean is seen in all its boundless majesty, ilHmitable to the power of human vision. Having made this short digi'ession from the cor- rect route to Saratoga, we will return and commence our travels from Rouse's Point. The village of Plattsburg is on the west side of Lake Champlain, at the mouth of the Saranao River, twenty-seven miles from Rouse's Point. It is naemorable for the celebrated victories achieved in front of the tower between the British and American forces both on land and water. Commodore Mc- Donough and Macomb, (Americans,) gained a complete triumph over George Provost and Com- modore Downie, (British,) in the war of 1812. The Americans were at anchor in the bay, and awaited, in awful suspense, the anival of the British fleets which sooon hove in sight. On the morning of the 11th of September, 1814, the roar of a single can- non came booming tver the watei*s; this was the NORTHERN TOUR. 115 eicmal for a c^eiieral attack on land and water, and the tieets were soon commingled in sad, terrific strife. The number of British engaged under Sir George Provost was 14,000; of the Americans under General Macomb, only 3000; but, Spartan-like, every American was determined to die by his colors, rather than surrender, and the stripes and the stars waved in triumph over the heads of the free and the brave. The loss of the British was 2500 men, besides baggage and ammunition ; that of the Amer- icans considerably less. Burlington, as a diverging point of the rail- roads, is situated on the east side of Lake Cham- plain, twenty-five miles southerly from Plattsburg. This is a fine New England village which has its attractions to the visitor seeing it for the first time. From Burlington to WJiitehall is seventy-five miles — the terminus of steamboat navigation on the south- ern point of Lake Champlain, seventy-three miles north of Albany. From Whitehall to Saratoga, (railroad,) thirty-nine miles. Visitors wishing to pass through Lake George, on their way to the Springs, stop at Ticonderoga; this route will be described in^ another place; at present ^^e will pursue our coui*se direct; cars leave Whitehall every morning on the arrival of the Lake Champlain boats, and reach Sai'atoga Springs in time for dinner. ! • Eli :| 116 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. The intermediate points and distances are as follows: From Whitehall to Fort Ann 11—11 Sandy Hill 10—21 Fortville 7—28 Milton 4—32 Saratoga 7—39 Saratoga Springs. This place of fashionable resort, from all parts of the world, has attained great celebrity from the medicinal properties of its waters. They lie in 43 degrees 10 minutes north latitude, and 13^ degrees west longitude from Washington, on a line directly east from Niagara Falls. The Springs immediately in the vicinity of Saratoga, are twelve in number; those most frequented are the Congress, the Iodine or Waltien, Putnam's Congress, the Monroe, the Hamilton, the Flat Rock, the High Rock, the Columbian and the Washington. A new spring, possessing, it is said, great medicinal proper- ties, was discovered in 1839; it is of a brackish taste, and not as pleasant as many others. The ten Springs are a httle north of the village, and are justly celebrated, and a place of great resort. Con- gress Spring was first discovered in 1702, though the Indians knew, and held them in high venei-ation, long before the white man marked the soil. It is at the south end of the village ; it was seen issuuig NORTHERN TOUR. 117 from the crevice of a rock about fifteen feet from its present location. Here it boiled up, and its waters, sparkling in the sunbeam, continued to flow, until art began to lay its plastic hand upon the works of na- ture, in the shape of improvements; the spring re- tired back upon its fountain, and nearly ceased to flow ; but collecting its energies, it soon broke out again near where it is now. There is a deep tube sunk into this spring, fifteen feet long, which eflect- ually screens it from sand, sediment and fresh water that might be oozing through the rocks. Doctor Steel, one of the most celebrated chemists of the age, says, "a gallon of water which he analyzed, contained the following substances: viz, chloride of sodium, three hundred and eighty-five grains; hy- driodate of soda, thirty-one and a half grains; bi- carbonate of soda, nearly nine grains; bicarbonate of magnesia, nearly ninety-six grains ; carbonate of lime, a little more than ninety-eight grains ; carbo- nate of iron, upwards of ^ve grains: silex, one and a half grains; carbonic acid gas, three hundred and eleven cubic inches; atmospheric air, seven cubic inches." Perhaps there is no spot on the globe where we can see a greater diversity of character, than at the Congress Spring; the halt, the gay, the giddy, the blind, the aged, the decrepit and the inor beautiful are crowdino: on to this to be healed from all their infi Siloam rmities, or , expect gratify the 118 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. (.1.. eye Vy seeing the fashion of the four quarters of the globe. Very few persons, I think, relish this water when first tasted, but habit familiarizes, and we soon become fond of it. The Iodine was dis- corered in 1838, near the High Rock Spring. The water is remarkably pure, sparkling and pungent, but has much less of iron. Professor Emerson says, ** one gallon of this water contains muriate of soda, one hundred and thirty-seven grains; carbonate of lime, twenty-six grains ; carbonate of iron, one grain ; carbonate of magnesia, seventy-five grains; carbo- nate of soda, two grains; hydriodate of soda, or iodine, three and a half grains; carbonic acid gas, three hundred and thirty cubic inches; atmospheric air, four inches. Though this spring has not been much visited until of late, yet it bids fair to equal many of its neighbors, and doubtless will hold a high rank among the fountains of health. A few rods from this is a very strong sulphur spring, which is used extensively in some cases. Putnam's Con- gress is near the Hamilton Spring. Here its heal- ing waters flowed for years unnoticed, but it is now popular and much frequented. The High Rock Spring is nearly three-fourths of a mile north of the Congress. The rock out of which this spring boils is a curiosity; nine feet diameter, five high. The particles of sand, formed by some chemical process, were once raised by the M'f ■ ! 'if! NORTHERN TOUR, 119 I action of the water below, and instantly fli ver, ovp' the top. The aperture is nine inches, 'i he watt: • does not flow over the summit as formerly, but rises within two feet of the top. This may be attributa- ble to the fact, that it has found a passage between the decayed rock, and the loose earth out of which it was formed. Between the Iodine in the upper village, and the "Washington in the lower, are most of the mineral springs in which this place abounds. No chemist, as yet, has been enabled to discover the causes which have produced these wonderful results. Some say it is the result ot some ** great laboratory," but where this mighty workshop is, or what is its process of working, is a mystery. It will be unnecessary to en- large upon the many and convenient bathing-houses erected at nearly all these springs, for the conven- ience and health of the visitor. It is said by those whose opinion is entitled to respect, that the prop- erties of the waters, botji of Saratoga and Ballston Spa, are nearly the same, varying only as to the quantities of the different articles held in solution. They are called by the chemists acidulous saline, and acidulous chalybeate; of the former, are the Con- gress, Iodine, Monroe, Putnam's Conoress, the Ham- ilton and High Rock at Saratoga ; and of the latter, are the Columbian, Flat Eock, and Washington at Saratoga, and the Old Spring, and Sans Souci at 120 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. Ballston. The waters, all to a greater or less extent, contain muriate of soda, hydriodate of svalls of the bottle. *'The most })rominent and perceptible effects of these waters, when tjiken into tlie stomach, are ca- thartic, diuretic and tonic. They are much used in a great vari ty of complaints; but the diseases in which they are most eflicacious are jaundice and bilious affections generally, dyspepsia, habitual cos- tiveness, hypochondriacal complaints, depraved ap- petite, calculous and enphritic complaints, phagedenic or ill-conditioned ulcers, cutaneous eruptions, chronic rheumatism, some species or s/«ites of gout, some species of dropsy, scrofula, paralysis| scorbutic affec- tions and old scorbutic ulcers, amenorrhea, dysme- norrhea and clorosis. In phthisis, and indeed all other pulmonary afi'ections arising from primary diseases of the lungs, the waters are manifestly in- jurious, and evidently tend to increase the violence of the disease. "Much interest has been excited on the subject of the source of these singular waters; but no re- searches have as yet unfolded the mystery. Tlie large proportion of Csomraon salt found among their constituent properties may be accounted for, without much difficulty — all .he salt springs of Europe, as well as those of America, being found in geological situations exactly corresponding to these; but the 11 122 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. production of the unexampled quantity of carbonic acid gas, the medium through which the other ar- t'eles are held in soUition, is yet, and probably will remain a subject of mere speculation. The low and regular temperature of the water seems to forbid the idea that it is the effect of subterranean heat, a3 many have supposed, and the total absence of any mineral acid, excepting the muriatic, which is com- bined with soda, does away the possibility of it8 being the effect of any combination of that kind. Its production is therefore truly unaccountable." It would be- unnecessary, perhaps, to enter into detail of the public houses ; the visitor will at once see that they are not surpassed by any in the United States. Among the principal are the Congress Hall, Union Hall, Pavilion, United States. Among the boarding houses, on a less extensive .scale, are the Adelphi, Columbian Hotel, Washington Hall, Rail- road House, Prospect Hall, Highland Hall. Price of board at the first class houses is from four to twelve and fifteen dollars per week. Amusements. Fishing in a small pond about two miles from the, village is resorted to by some; trout in considerable quantities are taken. Others prefer a sail on the lake four miles from the Springs; nine miles long, three broad. Sail-boats of every description, are fitted up in good style for parties of pleasure. Bern us' Heights, eight miles from the NORTHERN TOUR. 12a lake, will ever be sacrod in the memory of Ameri- cans, as the place where General Burgoyne surren- dered his entire force to General Gates, in the revolutionary contest, October l7th, 1777. The two actions that preceded this surrender were fought on the 1 9th of September of the same year. Cotillion parties, in all the large houses at Sara- toga, are attended almost every night. Elegant carriages will convey parties to any point of interest, at a moderate price. It is now time to return to Lake George. Some of our party we left at Ticonderoga; perhaps we may meet them. Lake George is twenty-five miles from Saratoga. The water of this lake is remarkably transparent, and it is said that a sixpence can be seen at a depth of twenty feet. The Catholics, we are told, carry these waters to all parts of the world, for religious purposes. The waters of Lake George are discharged into Lake Champlain, at Ticonderoga, by a small river, which, in two miles, falls one hundred and eighty feet. Large quantities of most excellent fish are taken from its waters; such as trout, bass, &c. It is dotted with small islands, comporting in number, it is believed by some, with the days of the year. Diamond Island once contained a fortificatioh. There is a beautiful summer-house on Tea Island, for the amusement of parties of pleasure, which is seen from the head of the lake ; the best view of the • I 124 EVERl MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. lake, in our opinion, is near the remains of old Fort George. Here, General Burgoyne made a depot of Lis military stores for some time in the revolution- ary war. Here are our friends we left at Ticonder- oga about a week since. They have enjoyed fine sport upon the watei-s of this limpid lake. There is a small, but very neat steamer which plies daily from the head of Lake George, (Caldwell,) to the foot, connecting with the steamers on Lake Champlain. From where the boat lands to Ticonderoga is three miles. Carriages are always in readiness. The boat returns every evening. Length of the lake is thiity-six miles. Fourteen miles from Caldwell, is Tongue Mountain. The Narrows commence here ; about seven miles long, one and a half miles Avide. Five hundred and fifty feet of line have been let down without finding bottom. Black Mountain, half way down the lake, is on the east side. It is ascertained bv actual measurement to be 2200 feet high. A short distance from this is an exhibition of mountain scenery, unsur]iassed on this continent. The rolhng appearance of the mountain — the deep and almost impenetrable caverns that yawn out before you at every step ; the wild, the beautiful and ter- rific grandeur of the whole place, combine to fill the mind with solemn awe and admiration. Solitude holds her empire here, undisturbed by the convul- sions that agitate the world ; the fall of empires or NORTHERN TOUR. 125 the ruin of kimvdoms is alike unlieeded and im- known. Sabbath-day Point is twenty-four miles fi'oni the head of the lake, on the west side. Dur- ing the French war, about tln-ee hundred and fifty English landed here on Sabbath morning. They were instantly surrounded by the Indians and every soul to a man, })erished by the tomahawk and scalp- ing knife — hence the name. In three miles we pass a small island called the Scotch Bonnet ; three and a half miles below, on the west shore, w^e ap- proach the city of Hague, composed of tw^o houses and a saw-mill ; this is the widest part of the lake, viz., four miles. Rogers' Slide -is three miles further down ; here. Colonel liogei-s, an inveterate foe to the Indians in the French war, was forced by the savages, in the winter, over a smooth rock two hun- dred feet high, on an angle of thirty degrees. He slid down with the velocity of light, and landed safely on the ice below. Anthony's Kose opposite, by drawing a little on the imagination, will be found similar to one of the same name on the Hudson. Prisoners' Island is two miles further; prisoners w^ere confined here during the French war. Lord Howe's Point is directly west; lie landed upon this spot but a short time before the battle at Ticonde- roga, at which he was killed. He was brother to Loi-d Howe, who commanded the Biitish forces at Philadelphia, in tlie revolutionary war. One mile 126 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. further, and tlie boat stops ; here is the landing and outlet of Lake George. Three miles from the landing is TicoNDEROGA, the far-famed place, memorable for its thousand daring exploits, and bold achieve- ments. Mount Independence, with its ruins, is here. Mount Defiance, seven hundred and fifty feet high, looks down in frowning contempt upon the world below. Here General Burgoyne lodged his artillery in 1777, and here the Americans were compelled to evacuate Ticonderoga. Many of the old walls, though mouldering in gloomy silence, are still to be seen ; the magazines of this old fort are nearly en- tire ; the walls, two hundred feet above the level of Lake Champlain, are still standing. A subterra- neous passage leads from the south-west corner of the fort, about thirty rods long, through which the celebrated Colonel Allen made his way, and took a . British officer while in bed ; when asked by what authority he did it, he replied, "by the authority of the great Jehovah and the Continental Congress." There are several old foi-ts and fortifications in this vicinity still to be seen ; the walls of one near the lake are sixty feet high. As early as 1758, General Abercrombie, wuth two thousand men, at- tacked Ticonderoga with great skill and bravery, but was repulsed with the loss of his entire army. The French abandoned this position to the English NORTHERN TOUR. 127 and the 5 in 1759. Colonel Ethan Allen, whose indomitable courage has never been surpassed since the days of Rome, took Ticonderoga by storm in 1775. In 1777 it was abandoned. Geneml Burgoyne pur- sued the American force as far as Whitehall and to Fort Ann, which soon resulted in the surrender of his entire army to General Gates — one of the most glorious epochs in the revolutionary struggle, giving to the colonies a foothold, a permanence and a standing, which never for a moment has been shaken. The banner was thrown to the breeze, and waves in triumph over the heads of the free and the brave. We must now leave our friends and return to the Falls to accompany another party via Lake Ontario, (American side.) We prefer the route from Sara- toga, via Auburn, Geneva, Canandaigua, Batavia* Buffalo, &c., because it is the most expeditious. Distance from the Spi-ings to the Falls by cam is three hundred and twenty-nine miles. By this route we reach Niagara in twenty-two houi-s. As we pass we notice Ballston Spa, seven miles from Saratoga ; the waters, according to Doctor Steel, are nearly similar to those of Saratoga. The first spring discovered is in a valley, surrounded by sand- hills, on a branch of Kayaderoseras creek, inclosed by an iron railing; New Washington Spring is but a few rods distant; the Sans Souci Spring is the 128 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. most frequented. The Washington Fountain flowed over the surface for many years, but in 1821 disap- peared entirely. Low's Spring, Park Spring, and several others in the neighborhood, were much vis- ited in former years, but latterly are measurably deserted. Schenectady, fourteen miles from Albany, and twenty-two from Saratoga, lies on the Mohawk River. It was destroyed by the Indians in 1690^ and nearly all of its inhabitants perished by the tomahawk ; Union college is well endowed ; popula- tion, VOOO. Amsterdam, sixteen miles west, on the north side of the Mohawk; the Erie Canal passes through this viilnge. Fond.'i, ten miles from Amsterdam, is a small place. Johnstown, four miles north, was the former residence of Sir William Johnson. Palatine Bridge, eleven miles, crosses the Mo- hawk to Canajoharie ; cai-s leave the latter place for the Catskill Mountains. P^'oRT Plain, three miles further, was originally settled by Germans, who, hke their neighbors, suf- feiod much in the revolutionary war. LiT-LK Falls, seventeen miles further; the Erie canal and Buffalo railroad, at an immense expense, pass the south part of the village; a place of consid- erable commerce from the Erie canal and its hydraulic power. The mountain scenery is grand and sublime. NORTHERN TOUR. 129 Herkimer is seven miles from Little Falls, on the West Canada creek, on which the far-famed Trenton Falls are situated. The creek enters the Mohawk about half a mile west of the village. Utica, fourteen miles from Herkimer and fifteen from Trenton Falls, is on the south side of the Mohawk. No city in the interior of New York possesses greater facilities for commerce than Utica. It is located on the site of old Fort Schuyler ; pop- ulation 15,000; its long line of canal- boats, together with the seven trains of cars that pass through the place from the west, render it a place of great importance. Trenton Falls, as has been remarked, are fifteen miles from Utica; thev are on the West Canada creek, twenty-two miles from its confluence with the Mohawk River at Herkimer. Visitors usually prefer taking carriages at Utica; going and return- ing will occupy nearly a day. There is no such terrific grandeur and awful sublimity here as at Ni- agara; yet they are beautiful, and in many respects sublime ; their effect upon the mind of the beholder is deeply impressive, and he long retains the vivid impressions enstamped upon his memory. The tourist ought, by all means, to visit them; they must be seen before they can be appreciated. The fall of the rapids for two miles before it en- ters the basin is sixtv-six feet; depth of the ravine, 11^ " ^ » I I 130 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. i' V one hundred: width of ravine at the top, two hundred; depth of creek below the Falls, one hun- dred. A dark, heavy forest hangs in moody silence over the ravine, shutting out the view until you reach the very verge. The falls are six in number, as follows : first, the one on the Black River road ; second, the upper, three-fourths of a mile below the cascades; third, the mill-dam; fci^rth, the High Fall; fifth, Sherman's; sixth, Canard's. Descent of Falls: upper, twenty feet; cascades, with two pitches and rapids, nineteen feet; the mill-dam, the second within the ravine, fourteen feet; width of stream at the top, one hundred and eighty feet. Of the high falls there are three. Descent of first, forty-eight feet; second, eleven feet; third, thirty-seven feet. These three, including the rapids above, make a de- scent of one hundred ten and one-half feet. Sher- man's Fall descends thirty-three when the creek is low, and thirty-seven and thirty-nine when high; this, unlike Niagara, rises when the rains fall, but is subject to fall many feet in droughts; the height of Canard's Fall is six feet. The entire descent of the falls, rapids included, is estimated to be three hundred and eighty -seven feet, in less than four and one-half miles. The best time to visit the Falls is in July or Au gust, or when the water is low ; you can then pass round Sherman's Stairway with perfect safety to the NORTHERN TOUR. 131 head of tho race-way. At the hotel there are two paths: one leading to the bottom of the ravine, the other to the High Falls; the former is generally preferred. At the foot of the stairway pass up tho stream; then by a narrow pathway to Sherman's Falls ; in a few moments you reach the High Fall. From these falls to the upper end of the race-way, above the cascades, the way is easy when the stream is low ; but from thence upward is more difficult. Petrifactions and organic remains may be found im- bedded in the rocks in the ravine. They lie flat in the laminae; "their contours," says a celebrated ge- ologist, "and component parts, usually being httle distorted from their original shape and dimensions. Sometimes there is a defect occasioned in their tran- sition from the animal to the stony or fossil state ; but, in most instances, all their parts are so com- pletely defined that not only the order, but the genera and species may be recognized. Their exteriors are commonly glossy, often very smooth, and ordinarily of a dark color, being transformed into stone, and constitute integral parts of the rocks which envelop them. To any one who has devoted any time to the subject, it will appear that their prototypes lived and died on the spot, and that the rocks in which they are entombed, are of subsequent forma- tion. A word to the ladies before we leave : good calf-skin boots or shoes are decidedly preferable, 132 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. both as to health and for convenience ; the finest pair of cloth shoes would be ruined in a single excursion over these rocks. We now return to Utica. On our way west, the first place we will notice is Syracuse, fifty-three miles. Perhaps there are no works on the globe, where as much salt is manufac- tured as in the vicinity of Syracuse and Salina. Four hundred and fifty acres are covered with vats for solar evaporation ; the roofs drawn over and re- moved at pleasure. Three times in the summer the salt is taken out and barreled for market ; forty gal- lons make more than a bushel of pure salt. There are one hundred and eighty-five works for boiling within five or six miles. The state of New York owns the entire works, which yield a great revenue. The Springs will last, probably, while the world stands. Nearly three millions of bnshels are manu- factured yearly. From Syracuse to Oswego, on Lake Ontario, is thirty-five miles, by railroad; here steamers take passengers down the lake to Montreal, or up to Lewifiton, seven miles from Niagara; but we will keep the railroad to the Falls, via Buftalo. Auburn is twenty-six miles from Syracuse. It is situated on the Owasco creek, and affords great hy- draulic power, which is extensively used. The state prison is the best regulated institution of the kind in the United States. The average number of yearly convicts is between seven, and eight hundred; KORTHERN TOUR. 133 population, 10,000. The best time to see the pris- oners is before breakfast; one of the keepers will accompany you for a mere trifle. The next place of much importance is Geneva, twenty-three miles from Auburn, situated on the north end of a lake of the same name, thirty-seven miles long, and about four wide; salmon trout are taken from its waters; it never freezes. It was upon the waters of this lake, that the cele- brated Jemima Wilkinson (who pretended she was the Saviour,) made her followers believe she could walk on the water if they had faith. She stepped from her carriage into the element, about ankle deep ; then turning suddenly to the multitude she again inquired if they had faith that she could pass over. They answered in the affirmative. She immediately returned to her carriage, declaring, "as they believed in her power, it was unnecessary to display it ; " thus ended the farce. Travelers from the west frequently take a steamboat to the head of the lake, thirty- seven miles, connecting with the New York and Erie Railroad. Canandaigua is sixteen miles from Geneva, on an outlet of the Canandaigua Lake. It is one of the most beautifully located villages in the state. Rochester, twenty-eight miles farther west, lies on both sides of the Genesee River. The Erie canal and Buffalo railroad cross the river at this 134 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. place, on the most substantial works in America. There are twenty-five flouring mills in the city, one hundred and twenty-five run of stones, making 5500 barrels of flour, and consuming 22,000 bushels of wheat in every twenty-four hours. There are six falls in the river, the highest of which, just below the bridge, is ninety-seven feet perpendicular. The celebrated Sam Patch, after he had made two suc- cessful jumps at Niagara, took his last and fatal leap here in 1829. Two and a half miles below the city, travelers can take steamers for the Falls of Niagara, or down the lake to Montreal, Ji 138 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. The southern route from Burlington to Boston, via Rutland, Bellow's Falls, &C., is as follows : From Burlington to Rutland 67 Bellow's Falls 53 Keene '. 22 Ashburnham 32 Fitchburg 11 Croton Junction 15 Boston 35 Rutland is on the west side of the Green Moun- tains, three miles distant. It is not surpassed for beauty of location by any village in the state. Bellow's Falls lies on the west bank of the Connecticut River ; the length of the rapids is about three-fourths of a mile ; descent of the river in this distance, fifty feet; at the toll-bridge is the best view ; the waters rush under the bridge with great power, in their wildest fury. Keene is one of the handsomest villages in New England; from this point, Boston is soon reached. Is situated at the foot of Massachusetts Bay, on a peninsula two miles long and one broad. It derived its name from a clergyman who emigrated from Boston, England. The monument on Bunker Hill, to perpetuate the memory and heroic vii-tues of the NORTHERN TOUR. 139 dead, is fifty feet diameter, two hundred and t\^enty higli. When completed, it will outvie in splendor, any of a similar character on this continent. The corner-stone was laid June 15th, 1825; the Marquis de Lafayette assisted in the ceremonies. The number of British ennrafred in the action of Bunker Hill was estimated at 3000; Americans, 1500. The British lost, in killed and wounded, 1050; tlie Americans, four hundred and fifty. Here General Warren, the scholar, the gentleman, fell in the com- mencement of the action. The harbor is spacious and commanding; the entrance is exceedingly nar- row, scarcely admitting two ships abreast. It is so strongly fortified, that any hostile ship in attempt- ing iu land, would be blown out of the w^ater; popui 1., 100,000. Boston will be retained in the recollections of Americans, while virtue, liberty and patriotism re- main. The hallowed associations, that linger around this sacred spot — the glittering steel of England's best sons, as they marched with a firm and steady tread to the attack on Bunker Hill ; the flames of Charlestown, as they rolled in red sui'ges to the sky; 1 the awfid stillness of the heroic band in the little fort precursory to the coming storm; the heights crowded with anxious spectators, witnessing in breath- less silence the doubtful contest; the memory of 140 EVERT MAJT HIS OWN GUIDE. i \ i those who fell, more durable than the monumenta of brass or marble; the roar of the artillei-y from the baj — all united to make it a scene awfully grand and territic, impossible for the most vivid imagination to portray. The British were permitted to approach within less than a hundred yards of the fort ; not a shot from the Americans, not a muscle moved — the silence of death held its empire over the little for- tress; but in an instant the storm burst; flash suc- ceeding flash, the iron tempest sweeps; heaping man, horse and car, in one undistinguished ruin; twice, the peals of musketry and the saber's clash drove the enemy back ; but at last they succeeded in gaining the heights, after the ammunition was all exhausted, and the cry rang through the fort, "powder! powder! a world for powder ! " We close our remarks by an extract from the speech of Hon. Daniel Webster, on the erection of the monument. I ^i{lf*j)ose3 of il)e ^VFo^iiliieof oi] St(i]l(elr ifiil. "Let it not be supposed that our object is to per- petuate national hostility, or even to cherish a mere military spirit. It is higher, purer, nobler. We consecrate our work co the spirit of National Inde- pendence, and we wish that the light of peace may rest upon it forever. We rear a memorial of our *):\ NORTHERN TOUR. 141 conviction of that unmeasured benefit ^^bicll hris been conferred on our land, and of the ba|)[)y influ- ences wliich have been produced by the same events, on the general interests of mankind. We coine, as Americans, to mark a spot which must be forever dear to us and posterity. We wish, that whosoever, in all coming time, shall turn his eye hither, may behold that the place is not undistinguished where the first great battle of the revolution was fought. We wish, that this structure may proclaim the mag- nitude and importance of that event to every class and every age. We wish, that infancy may learn the purpose of its erection from maternal lips, and withered age may behold it, and be solaced by the recollections which it suggests. We wish, that labor may look up here, and be proud in the midst of its toil. We wish, that, in those days of disaster, which, as they come upon all nations, must be expected to come upon tis also, desponding patriotism may turn its eye hither, and be assured that the foundations of our national power still stand strong. We wish, that this column, rising toward heaven among the pointed spires of so many temples dedicated to God, may contribute also to produce, in all minds, a pious feeling of dependence and gratitude. We wish, finally, that the iast object on the sight of him who leaves his native shore, and the first to gladden his :; ■ r U2 EVERY MAN HIS OWN GUIDE. who revisits it, may be sometliing wliicli shall re- mind him of the liberty and glory of his country. Let it rise, till it meets the sun in his coming ; let the earliest light of morning gild it, and parting day linger and play upon its summit." flbel'i) oj) fl)e Hog. On the morning of July 19th, 1853, a great excitement was created by the discovery of a man on a log in the rapids, midway between the main shore and Bath Island, and about forty yards below the bridge which leads to the toll-gate on the island. The circumstances as near as are known of the way he got there, are these: This man, Avery, and another man, they being in the employ of Mr. Brown, boating sand above the Falls about two miles, got into a boat at ten o'clock at night to take a pleasure sail. The next morning Mr. Averv was discovered on the I02: tibove men- tioned, which being reported, called thousands of people to the spot to see the unfortunate man, and to do what thev could to rescue him. In the first place a small boat was let down, but it filled with water, and sunk before it reached him. By this time a life-boat from Buffldo had reached the spot, and was lowered into the stream, which reached the AVERY ON THE LOG. 143 shall re- country, ling; let parting a great )f a man the main ds below le island. 1 of the , Avery, employ Ihe Ffdls 'clock at morning ove men- sands of nan, and the first lied with By this the spot, iched the log he was on, passed by above it, capsized and sunk, which was the last of that. The next, a small boat was let down, which reached the spot all right, but the rope got entangled under the log, and could not be got loose, so that boat was use- less. Another plan was tried : a raft was let down to him all right, and he got on it, and the raft was moved toward Bath Island as far as it could be, for the ropes got entangled in the rocks, and stuck fast. Then another boat was let down to him, to take him from the raft ; but as the boat reached the raft, the water dashed the boat against the bow of the raft, which gave it a sudden jog, and Avery not using the means that wore prepared for his safety, viz., ropes for him to hold on to, or tie himself with, stood erect on the stern of the raft ; and as the boat struck, he fell off backward, and the rapid water carried him over the Falls, at about six o'clock P. M., at which time the crowd, (being about three thousand in number,) left the spot with slow and solemn steps for their homes, to think and talk of what had transpired. ! 144 TA»LB OP DISTANCES. S 1 i TAUIiC OF DISTANCES ON THE GREAT WESTERN RAIL ROAD, CANADA. From Niagara Falls to DETROIT. PL ACS. MILES Niagara Falls---- Thun)l(1 9 St. Catharine's 11 Bearnsville 2'2 Grimsbv 27 Stoney Creek 37 Hamilton 43 i)uiidas 4D Flam borough 52 Fairchild's 62 Paris 72 Piinceton 79 Wood-tock 91 BeuchvilJG 9(5 IngersoU-. lOO Dorchester 109 London n^ Loho. 129 Ekfrid 139 "Wardsville 155 Chatham 183 Baptinte Creek 197 Wjrj'sor 229 Detroit 33o From Detroit to NIAGARA FALLS. PLACE. MILES Detr it Windsor Ba|)tihte Creek 32 Chatham 4G Wardsville 74 Ekfrid 90 Lobo 100 London n^ D. ichester 120 IngersoU 1*29 Beachville 133 Woodstock 138 Princeton 150 Paris 157 Fairchild's 167 Fhiniborough 177 Dundjis 180 Hamilton iH6 IStoney 'Jreek 192 (Grimsby 2U2 Beam^vdle 207 St. Catharine's 217 Thoroid 2'iO Niagara Falls.-- 2^3 i-_.. ROAD, it to fALLS. MILES 32 4G 74 90 100 no 120 1-29 133 138 150 157 167 177 180 186 1132 202 207 , 217 2-20 8. -.229 ■ 4 *' i ,) wmm M mi -,?**■'*>'*/ ^ .* *v % M^'.'i ^W s^' :/ ■.yn-!t ■i;2i ■«>;ir^'--*- ^ ^1 I*:*". MnJ' ;^«-^ ^v^. ^e., «ic. '^t'. J* •»■ lO^ '■i;';t 'Ji m': ^ ■'*-;*•' ,i. ■ S^^^'' '--^^^'' •Vli /"■ '';■ '^■t'M! ; u' er .»'^^*' ai^iP^i .00! 5 111 2^. IC, aO '^. f*'. •"^V^ t--