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Tous les autres exempiaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'iilustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds A des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seui clich6, 11 est film6 d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droits, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 . 4 !: " M . « f- . THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. , r k THE UNITED STATES A \ I) CAI^ADA, AS .>(;i.;v „V T W O B lU) T H E R S IN 1858 AXB 1801. 'H:i^-~ LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, CHARING CROSS. MDCCCLXII PftlNTKD BI J. Z. ADUlBlD, BAfiTHOLOMEW CLOSB. PK K FAC I I In i!S5S I paid a four months' visit to tlio United Statics and Canada; pleasure took me to the country of JJrotlur Jonatlian, ties of kindred to England's flourisliing colony. I iiiiide copious notes of my travels and observations, but did not tlunk it worth while to put any of them in })rint ; but now that my brother has just returned from ;i similar tour, it is our opinion that the contrast between the peaceful Union in LS5S and the warlike States in 1861 is sufficient warrant for our publishing, for our own gratification and for that of our friends, some record of that which we must ever look ba.;k upon as an event in our life's brief course. Our minds being thus made n\) to print, we think it as well to give an opportunity to a reading public of seeing wliat two unbiassed young Enghshmen think, on a persona! ac(iuaintance, of the Anglo-Saxon race and the land of their adoption on the other side of the Atlantic. J. C'., .luN. December, 1861. I k Mii|) lo ilhislnilc KOITKS in llir rMTKI) : SCALE luci so 20O ;T:r."j _ jr^iiM Route in 18^ ill Ihr IMTKI) STATKS iiiid CANADA MILES Route, in 1858. RouTt IN 1361 V t jr»iiiEs Ro THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. A BOOK written by two people cannot be a personal nar- rative ; the I's would often clash, and confuse both authors and readers. We intend, then, our account to be purely descriptive. Some chapters will be written by one brother, some by the other, some will owe paternity to both, while none will go to press without the revision of both. As, however, this book is intended primarily for private circula- tion, for the perusal of friends, present and to come, we subjoin a sketch of the route of each brother, with the dates and mode of travelling. 1 J. C. JUN. 1858. April 28. — Left Liverpool by screw steamship City of Baltimore for New York. May 12. — Landed at New York. „ 18. — Ascended River Hudson by steamer to Al- bany. „ 19. — By rail to Boston. •z THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. }f >} }) )) }} }> )) May 2 2 . — By railto Pall Hi vcr, thence by steamer to Xew York . 24. — By steamer to Soutli Amboy, thence by rail to Phihidelphia. 27. — By rail to Baltimore. 28. — By rail to Washington. June 2. — By steamer down the'Potomac to Acquia Creek, thence by rail to Richmond. „ 4 — 7. — At a gentleman's estate on the James River, about seventy miles below Richmond. 8. — By steamer up the James River to City Point, thence bv rail to Petersfburi?. 9. — By rail to Lynchburg. 11. — Bv canal-boat to the Natural Bridge. 12 — 17. — By stage-coach through western Virginia, across the Alleghany Mountaiiis to Charle- ston, a small town on the Kanawha River. 19, 20. — By steamer down the Kanawha and the Ohio to Cincinnati. 23. — By rail to Chicago,. 24. — By rail to Toronto. 26. — By rail to Cobourg on Lake Ontario. ■^^■^ Here and at Toronto some weeks with relations. July 23 to 20.— At the Palls of Niagara. Aug. 6. — Left Cobourg by steamer to Brockville. 9. — By rail to Ottawa. 10. — By rail toPrescott, thence by steamer to^lontreal. 11. — By steamer to Quebec. 14. — ^Left Quebec by screw steamer Canadian for Liverpool. 24. — Landed at Liverpool. }} }) f) )} }. }) !>} )} INTRODUCTORY. A. C. 1801. April Hi). — Left Liverpool by Cuiiard paddle steamer Arabia for l^ostoii. „ 'Zd. — Stopped a few hours at Halifax, Nova Scotia. May 1. — Landed at Boston. 3.— To New York via Fall River. 10. — To Philadelphia via South Amboy. 20. — To Baltimore. 21.— To Washington. 27. — By rail to Harrisburg. 28.— By rail to Pittsburg. 30. — By rail to Cincinnati. 31. — By rail to Louisville. June 1. — By rail and coach to the Mammoth Cave, Ken- tucky. 5. — Returned to Louisville. 6. — By rail to St. Louis. 8 — 12. — On the Mississippi between St. Louis and St. Paul. 13. — By rail from La Crosse on the Mississippi to Milwaukee, thence across Lake Michigan to Grand Haven. 14. — By rail to Detroit. 15. — By rail to Hamilton. 17. — By steamer to Cobourg. )} a )) }) ft 3) J) if ff 91 ff 3J ff ff *^* Some weeks here with relations. „ 20. — By rail to Toronto. July 24. — By steamer and rail to the Falls of Niagara. „ 25. — Returned to Toronto. 4 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. July 26. — By steamer to Montreal. „ 29. — By rail to Quebec. Aug. 6. — Left Quebec by Great Eastern for Liverpool. „ 16. — Arrived at Liverpool. It will be observed that the second tour was commenced eight days earlier than the first; it was also completed eight days earlier ; in fact, without any particular design, the two brothers were absent from home the same length of time to an hour. It will be seen that the routes somewhat vary. Where they agree, the mode of travelling is not given in the outline of that of A. C. Undoubtedly the months taken are the best for paying a short visit to America, but if one could manage a longer holiday, and intended going south, it would be as well to take the autumn, winter, and spring, as the northern states and Canada are seen to advantage in the autumn, or fall, as it is there called, and it is not prudent for an Englishman to travel in the extreme south except in the winter months. One could make more of a trip in this way than by taking the summer, as scarcely anything can prove more enjoyable to one accustomed to the highly civilized Ufe of England than a few weeks* hunting in the Ear West, and for this autumn is the time. The reader will be able to trace in the map, which accom- panies this little volume, the routes as indicated in the itinerary. CHAPTER II. THE VOYAGE. Crossing the Atlantic is one of the most important con- siderations which comes before the tourist on making pre- parations for his trip, and some words relative to the experience gained may not be out of place. This passage may be accomplished in more ways than one, and while one person chooses a vessel belonging to that admirable of all lines, the Cunard, another is obliged, for the sake of eco- nomy, to cross in a vessel of less pretensions, and conse- (juently with cheaper fares. The principal lines of communication between this country and America are as follows : The British and North American Royal Mail steamships, between Liverpool and New York. The Liverpool, New York, and Philadelphia Steamship Company. The United States Mail steamers, between Southampton and New York. The Canadian Steamers, between Liverpool and Quebec. Steamers also regularly ply between Hamburg and New York, and between Havre and New York, calling at Southampton on their way. If possible, the traveller should make use of the Cunard line, as it is undoubtedly the best, and the risk is less than that caused by railway travelling in our own country, the (> THE UNITED STATj:S AND CANADA. life of a passenger never having l)een lost. The captains on board tliese vessels are tried men, and the entire crew consists of what are termed " first-class seamen." The fare at table is of the very best kind, and he must be a very fastidious man who would dare grumble at the sumptuous dinner which is provided. In speaking of this line no wish is felt to depreciate others, as all fulfil well the arduous duty they have undertaken. Large numbers of emigrants are taken out by the Liverpool, New York, and Philadelphia Company, their numbers often amounting to several hun- dreds, and this line has earned for itself a high meed of praise. The Canadian line has been of late very unfor- tunate, and a diminution in their profits must necessarily follow; but a large sum is annually paid them by the provincial government, as it is to the interest of Canada to have a separate communication with the mother country. Tliat masteqnece of science, the Great Eastern, has also crossed the Atlantic, but from the many mishaps which have befallen this noble vessel it is to be feaied the public confidence will be permanently shaken, "Whether she will ever prove a successful speculation in a pecuniary sense is most doubtful, as is evidenced by the decline in value of the shares ; but the magnificent proportions of this huge ship cannot fail to strike the observer on first sight. The excitement produced in Canada, when she arrived at Quebec with troops, was very great ; many people travelled several hundreds of miles to inspect for themselves this ocean giant, and there was a constant throng of visitors during the whole of her stay. Some idea may be had of the capa- city of her decks, when it is stated that the officers exercised their horses and drilled the men during the voyage. THE VOYAGE. The (ordinary time in wliicli one may expect to cross is eleven days, and in this age of steam the variation is, as ;i rule, very slight. The quickest passage ever made was in June, 18G1, by the Adriatic, from Gal way to New York, in seven days, and from land to land in five. The Adriatic formerly belonged to the ColHns line, which was in the hands of the Americans, but was broken up on account of mishaps and mismanagement. She is of American build, aiul the fact of her belonging to an English company is somewhat galling to the New Yorkers when- ever she makes her appearance on their side of the Atlantic. Sea-sickness is a thing which goes a great way towards deterring would-be travellers, and the horrors of it are certainly distresshig. It is no uncommon thing for passen- gers to be ill all the way over, and occasionally on arriving in port ladies are seen to emerge from their cabins who have never appeared on deck wliile on the voyage, but the delightful sight of land soon dispels all evil forebodings, and as the wish in this little book is rather to increase than to decrease the number of adventurous ones, nothrig more must be said concerning the dark side. Extra care is requii-ed on the part of the captain of a vessel on approaching the banks of Newfomidland, con- tinual fogs being caused by the incoming of the Gulf Stream. Full particulars of these fogs may be found in a very excellent book written by Lieutenant Maury, a man W' ho holds a high scientific position in the United States, but who is just now^ in rather bad odour on accomit of his pro- southern sympathies. In this region one may reasonably expect to come across an iceberg, and fortunate is the man THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. who liappens to sec one, as the impression will for ever be fixed on his memory. Several hours before its appearance the temperature of the air is found to decrease very materially, and shawls, great coats, and the like are in demand. Even the Great Eastern would stand no chance were she to come in contact with one of the large dimensions often seen. The time taken by sailing craft is very uncertain. The voyage to Europe is made in less time than that to America. Occasionally this mode of travelling is adopted for the sake of the beneficial effect expected from the voyage. The pilot boats prove a most welcome sight on arriving near land. They are generally distinguishable by their yacht-like appearance, and are models of what a sailing boat should be. The pilots come long distances out in order to secure the steamships which are due, and occasionally they have a race for it ; the competition is great, and from the exposed life these men lead a good remuneration ought to be paid. In times of political excitement, especially, the pilot proves a welcome visitor, for in general he has a daily paper, and then the eager faces on board betoken a lively interest in the topics of the day. The Cunard vessels proceed alternately to New York and Boston, and, when steering for the latter port, call at Hali- fax, in Nova Scotia, to land the mails and whatever freight they may have for the colony. Halifax harbour is a very fine one. Its approaches are fortified so as in case of attack to give a warm reception to an enemy. British soldiers are always stationed there, and frequently war vessels belonging to Her Britannic Majesty are at hand. The town of Halifax is a very dull^ deserted looking place, and from its appear- THE VOYAGE. 9 ance would seem to be half a century behind the rest of the world, but, notwithstanding this, it is considered one of the best stations for English regiments to be ordered to, and certainly it is far preferable to an expatriation to the West India Islands. On arriving in America, the ordinary routine of search of luggage by custom-house officers must be undergone, whether landing in the United States or Canada, but the inconvenience is very slight, as ;he exami "tion is far from being rigid ; in fact, boxes may frequc ntly be got through without being opened, and if any trouble is caused it is generally due to the temperament of the individual con- cerned. It is worthy of remark that, comfortable as one may have been on board the well-appointed steamship, and really enjoyable as may have been the passage, no sooner does the vessel arrive in port than it appears Hke a prison, and one is anxious to leave it. All the passenger's enthusiasm about long voyages and the delights of the ocean vanish, and he is not quiet till he sets his foot on terra firma. CHAPTER III. BOSTON. Massacihsktts is the most important of the states which constitute; what is generally known as New England. It contains the nourishing and interesting city of Boston, now better known than its English sister. New England is remarkable for its Puritan character, which is now, per- haps, more a matter of history than of reality. But to Puritanism New England certainly owes the high character its inhabitants have for their superior civilization and morality over the other states in the Union. New England has also given birth or domicile to most of the authors and men of science who have adorned America. The history of the colonization of the various states is of great interest, none more so than of New England. It was here that in a new, untrodden soil, our forefathers, persecuted for con- science sake, set foot, not willingly, but of compulsion. Their attachment to the country they had left is evinced by the fact of their calling the home of their adoption Neio England. They wished it to be new in more ways than one, and thought to establish a model government. But the true principles of religious liberty, little understood now, were less so then, and our Puritan ancestors, men who had suffered much for religion's sake, thought that they, ,in their turn, could also ensure religious uniformity by the same means. This is all past, but the influence of their example is still felt in the HOSTON, 11 jiltaclimciit to law, order, and morality, wliicli distinpiislics Nt'W Knglandcrs — Yankees, as they are called somewhat eontemptnonsly. It is a mistake to a|)))ly the term yts must be laid out in accordance! with the plan niaj)ped out by the municipal authorities. This system has been most fully developed in I'hiladelphia. Some of the ohl names, taken chiefly from trees or shrubs, still remain, and the couplet is still (juoted : (.'hestnut. Walnut, Spruce and Pine, Cedar, Sassafras and Vine. Other of the streets arc similarly named, but the majority are numbered. The main street is Chestnut, which runs cast and wx'st. All the streets which enter this at right angles are numbered, commencing at the Delaware, and are known as North or South First, and so on, according as they are north or south of Chestnut street. Small intermediate streets are named. This plan of street organization is still further carried out in the numbering of the houses. In Chestnut street, for instance, the numbering begins at the Delaware, the odd numbers on one side, even numbers on the other. Passing First Street, No. 101 is commenced, and tliis without any reference to whethci ihere are 100 houses in the first portion of the street. Th'i:-*, if the stranger wishes to go to No. 1240 Chestnut or any parallel street, he knows that that house must be situated between TweKth and Thirteenth Streets. He will also know on which side of the street the house is. This principle is carried out in the small back streets^ so that in going uj) the town, one IMllI.ADELPillA. 'V I finds streets with tlie liouses immhered, sav from eleven to tliirteen hundred. Some peoplt- laut,'h at all tliis, and at- tribute this nund)erini^ to the poverty of invention on the part of tlie Amerieans. This has, doubtless, some- thini^ to do with it, but there can be no (piestion, that the system is a great convenience to those who arc not thoroughly ac(|uainted with a city. A glance at the map is sufficient, and the visitor confidently directs his steps to his destination, without having at every hundred yards to liesitate as to which street he should turn up, or to ask his way of people who think they know it, but give in answer most perplexing directions, often misleading those whom they intend to assist. Many of the streets in Philadelphia are very wide, and have commodious markets running through the centre. These are all life and activity in the early morning, but as the day gets on, housekeepers have provided for the require- ments of the day's consumption, the stall-keepers have sold their 'stores of fish, flesh, fowl, and vegetables, and these wide streets are h^ft to desolation in the afternoon. Most of the United States currency is coined in the Mint at Philadelphia. There are three or four branch establish- ments, but the dies come invariably from the chief mint in this city. The process of coining has little in it that is peculiar to America. In one part of the building is a museum, containing various ancient and modern coins. Among the modern, are specimens of the currency of all countries. The museum also contains ores from various parts of the world, chiefly from the United States, and some ingenious machines which have been invented to facilitate the process of coining. •I 28 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. The great sight in Philadelphia is the Girard College, founded by a rrcnch merchant, Stephen Girard, for the education, clothing and apprenticing of poor, white male orphans, who are admitted according to priority of ap- plication, exceptions being made, first in favour of boys born in Philadelphia, then in other parts of Pennsylvania, then in the city of New York, and then in the city of New Orleans. Mr. Girard left two millions of doUars, a large portion of which the trustees have thought fit to lay out on the buildings, but there yet remain ample funds to fulfil the founder's intentions on behalf of 400 boys. There are seven buildings, one of which is very handsome. It is built of marble, and is surrounded by marble columns of the Corinthian order, declared by an English arcliitect to be loftier than any others, ancient or modem. The proportions are very fin j, and one wonders at such an outlay for an orphan school. But where men have money at their dis- posal, they are apt to prefer the dulce to the utiUf as the former attracts more attention. Accordingly, the trustees sent a committee to Europe to inspect and report on various public buildings of ancient and modern date. The design chosen was on the model of some Grecian temple. In one of the rooms are kept reKcs of Mr. Girard ; his library, furniture, clothes ; and in the hall is a statue in marble of him. By his will, no clergymen of any denomination are allowed to enter the college, but some have got in by wearing non-clerical garments. Religion is not proscribed, prayers being read and service conducted by laymen. The grounds belonging to the college comprise about forty-five acres, affording ample means for the recreation and physical education of the boys. PHILADELPHIA. 29 Near the College is the State Penitentiary, a prison which has served as a model for nianv others, both in Europe and America. A wall tliirty feet high encloses ten acres of ground. In the centre of tliis enclosure is a round house, from which radiate, as spokes from the axle of a wheel, five or six long corridors, in which are the cells. The system is strictly solitary and separate. The prisoners have abundance of air, a small court to each cell to walk about in, books to read, and plenty of occupation^ working at some trade that is taught them by the warders. This way of making prisoners useful is carried to a great extent in America, in some cases going far to render tlie prisons self-supporting. There is no chapel in this prison, but ministers preach in the corridors, the prisoners remaining in their cells, the outer doors of which are slightly opened, so as to catch the sound. In Philadelphia are educated a large proportion of American medical practitioners, and many eminent phy- sicians, surgeons, and medical authors reside in the city, adding to the already great repute of its medical schools and colleges. The Pennsylvania Hospital, also, affords admirable teaching in clinical medicine and surgery, and contains moreover an anatomical museum, and a good library. There are two medical publishing houses in the city and several medical journals, some of which are highly thought of by English medical men. The profession in the United States is worthy the confidence and esteem of its followers in England. Go, where we wiU, in the civilized world, one finds those w^ho practise the noble art of preventing and liealing disease much the same. Differences in climate and country, and race may liave much to do with the 30 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. 'til. different phases of character in various countries, but medical men are always found denyiuff themselves, investi- gating science, preferring honour to gain. The minister of religion may in one country have to do with superstitious, in another with sceptical people, the lawyer may here find litigious, there peaceable clients ; but the medical man has always to do with the patient, the suffering one. "While the minister and the lawyer have to dp with men, the phy- sician has to grapple with disease. This gives him a fixity of purpose, and the very fact that he is constantly endeavouring to give relief, keeps his heart open and his memory green. It is not intended here to draw a com- parison with the minister of the gospel, but with the minister of religion, who may be for the illustration, a Koman Catholic, a Greek Catholic, a Jewish Rabbi, or a Socinian. The Pennsylvania Central Railroad brings a great many people to Philadelphia. It runs right through the state from east to west, and is connected with all the great western railways. About fourteen miles above Harrisburg, it crosses the Susquehanna River, at its junction with the Juniata, by the right bank of which it runs for some distance. Harrisburg is the capital of the State, but noted for nothing else. In many of the states the capital is a second or third rate town. Thus Albany is the capital of New York, Annapolis of Mar}land, Columbus of Ohio. About 100 miles from Harrisburg the railway reaches the Alleghany Mountains, which it crosses by a series of zigzags, working its way up to a height of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea, and passing through a tunnel 3,612 feet long. The western terminus of the railroad is Pittsburg, a PHILADELPHIA. 31 large manufacturing city ontlie Oliio river, at tlic conlluencc of the Alleghany and Monongahela. It has been called tlie Birmingham of America. It is situated in a district extremely rich in mineral wealth, and draws from the immediate neighbourhood a plentiful supply of coal. Much of this is of that kind known as cannel coal. It yields an immense quantity of mineral oil, which for cheapness, clearness and brilliancy of light, excels all others. Pennsylvania is known as the Keystone State. This name was given to it when there were but the original thirteen states. A reference to the map will show how its geographical position gives a])tness to the simile. TJiis has given it great political importance, and the vote of Pennsylvania has always been looked to with interest, as affording an indication of the feeling of the Union. Its north- west corner is washed by Lake Erie, which alone separates it from Canada, its northern boundary is the energetic state of New York, on the east is New Jersey, a very conservative state, on the south are the slave states, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia, while on the west is the pushing, tliriving state of Ohio. Pennsylvania has thus, politically, an eminently central position, it is thus unavoidably the theatre of conflicting interests. As might be expected, its weign; lias generally gone with the Northern Democratic part} In this its policy was faithfully reflected by the late Pi't, :f .int of the United States, Mr. Buchanan, a citizen of Pennsylvania. -*' CHAPTER VT. WASHINGTON. The most direct route to "Wasliington from Philadelphia is bv wav of Baltimore. This toMH is considered one of tlie most rowdy places in the States, and it proves a sort of thorn in the flesh to the Federal government at the present time. ' Baltimore is the capital of Maryland, and represents a state which is on ^ ^:^t in the Union by the presence of a most formidable ni . . er of troops. The title of the "Monumental City" has been applied to this handsome to^\^l, and the visitor cannot fail to be struck with the architectural taste displayed in the public buildings which adorn and embellish it. The population numbers upwards of 200,000. From being a large centre of commerce, Baltimore com- mands considerable attention. Singular, indeed, was its aspect at the commencement of the present outbreak, the hitherto busy streets being quite quiet, and a sort of melan- choly death-like silence pervading every thing and every body. It was here that the Massachusetts 6th Eegiment was attached by the mob, and three of the soldiers killed. This circumstance created immense sensation in Boston, and the funeral cortege which followed the bodies to the grave in that city on the 1st of May, did not serve to allay tlie irritable feeling. On proceeding to Washington by rail one soon arrives at WASHINCfTON. 38 the Relay House, situated at a distance of nine miles from Baltimore. Before the time of railways, this house was a stopping-place for resting, or changing horses. The large number of people who live about here, having southern sympathies, necessitates troops being stationed at various parts all along the line of rail to guard against any attempt being made to break up the communications with Washing- ton ; and from the quantity of camps, and squads of soldiers in the vicinity, one cannot fail to be painfully struck with the reality of war. The site of Washington was selected by the great man whose name it bears, and shows that the general must, have had an eye to the beautiful. Its position could not for picturesque effect well be surpassed, built as it is in the midst of most lovely scenery, with a noble stream running in close contiguity. The town has been, ever since the fall of Fort Sumter, a vast military camp, and the rat tat tat of the drum is heard from morning till night. The public buildings are many, and elegant, and first among these must be mentioned the Capitol. This building is not yet finished, and during the great struggle completion is lost sight of. It is to have a dome on the top, and pictures already show it in its intended form. It is of great size, but for archi- tectural beauty is not remarkable. The danger in which Washington stood in April brought down several thousands of troops, and from the want of accommodation the Capitol was made use of, and an immense quantity of men took up their quarters there. The mosaic stonework with which the various passages are paved, was covered with volunteers, some asleep, and some eating and drinking, or otherwise passing the time. Tlie desks and chairs, intended for the 3 » I] 1. THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. various members of Congress, were made use of by the men ; and from the dirty state of some of them, one could see that the apj)earance of these articles of furniture was far from being improved. Such sights as a soldier cleaning his boots in the speaker^s chair, in the Senate House, were not at all uncommon ; in fact, one of the estimates for renovat- ing the building and putting it into a fit state for the 4th of July, the day when Congress reassembles, was as high as a quarter of a million of dollars. The Washington monument is an object worthy of in- terest, intended as it is to be in memory of that great general, statesman, and patriot. It is of white marble, and if finished would prove a handsome structure, but it is more than pro- bable that funds sufficient will never be obtained, it being built from the casual donations of the people. The erection of the monument is stopped during the war, and although the idea of raising it was a good one, still if it cannot be finished it should never have been commenced. The White House here claims notice, from its being the residence of the President. Only a portion of it is open to the inspection of strangers, and this has in it nothing very worthy of special observation. The garden surrounding the house is laid out tastefully, but the whole building, taken in comparison with the Palaces of the regal dignities of the Old World, is very inferior ; democratic ideas would- no doubt be violated by any appearance of European State etiquette. The White House is as its name implies, white, but is not built like the Capitol, of white marble, but of freestone, painted white. The Patent Office is an object of particular interest, as it contains models of the innumerable patents taken out by WASHINGTON. .'i5 the Ciierprising Yankees for the improvement of every article of manufacture. The number of specimens here is so great that one tires long before seeing all. The different improvements with regard to that wonderful invention, the sewing machine, are very large. Ladies' crinolines also play a conspicuous part. The Smithsonian Institution ranks high in the scientific world. It was founded by an Englishman of the name of Smithson, for the "increase and diffusion of knowledge among men/' and considerable difficulty was experienced in determining how this idea could be best carried out. Long discussions were entered into, and the result is a build- ing which contains objects of interest to every one, and a very valuable museum. Professor Henry is secretary of th(^ institution, and under his good management the intentions of the deceased Smithson are ably furthered. A sort of depot is here established, by means of which societies in Europe can send the result of their researches, to be for- warded to kindred societies on the American continent, and vice versd. There are, consequently, at all times large quantities of packing cases here awaiting their removal to their respective destinations. Information is also gathered on scientific questions from all parts of the world, collated, condensed, put into shape, and re-sent in the shape of *'Eeports" wherever it is likely to be turned to account. The Navy Yard at Washington, in time of war, proves very interesting. Any one may walk all over it. On the 24th of May of this year, the remains of Colonel EUsworth were laid here, covered with the Stars and Stripes, and bouquets of flowers. The whole city wore an aspect of mourning, and black cloth was hung from the various buildings in token •• ;3(; THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. of respect. On one of the houses was the following in- iuscription : " "We moum our loss." " Though lost to sight To memory dear.' )f It will no doubt be remembered that on the Federal troops taking possession of Alexandria, Colonel Ellsworth, who was in command of the celebrated Fire Zouaves, entered the house of an hotel keeper of the name of Jack- son, followed by two or three of his men, to pull down a Secession flag he saw floating from the roof. Ellsworth succeeded in removing the flag, but as he descended the staircase Jackson shot him dead, but the murderer did not long survive his victim, as one of the Colonel's men sent a bullet through his head. The newspapers were very bitter about this affair, as the deceased officer was considered one of the most promising men in the Federal army. He was only twenty-three years of age, and was a personal friend of the President. If all accounts are true, Jackson must be indeed a villain, as it is said that on the death of John Brown, he cut off with his clasp knife a piece of the un- fortunate man's ear, and put it into a bottle of spirits to show to any customers who might patronise his bar. Lord Lyons is Her Majesty's representative at Washing- ton, and at these critical times he finds plenty of work. He meets with abuse at the hands Jof the American press but does the duties his country has imposed upon him well. He is a very gentlemanly man. On entering the British Legation where he is engaged during the day one is struck WASHINGTON. •37 by the appearance at the door of an English flunkey in livery, such a sight being a rare one in this " free and in- dependent country." When Washington was in danger the New York Seventh Regiment was the first to come to the rescue, and the in- habitants at sight of it breathed more freely. Great con- fidence is felt in this magnificent volunteer regiment, having as it has, the credit of being the best drilled in the world. The officers comprising the Prince of Wales' suite on his tour in America, said they had never seen anything like the precision with which the men went through the various manoeuvres. Some of the newspapers are rather fond of crying them down, as nearly all the members are connected with the best families in New York, and there was a report current that every man had a champagne cellar underneath hiS tent, but such petty sayings go for nothing, and may be valued for what they are worth. On the 23rd of May new colours were presented to tliis regiment by 117 ladies of New York, and this crack corps presented a very fine appearance on its parade ground. The President and his wife drove up to view the ceremony, which was a very pretty one. The band played extremely well. Music seems to be in a backward state in America, and one does not hear that which is of a high order. The band attached to this body of men is composed for the most part of Germans, hence its efficiency. It may be that Brother Jonathan has not sufficient time to give to such trivialities, the stem realities of life demanding his chief attention, but certain it is that the public taste Is not yet educated to the classical music now in vogue in the old country. On the evening of the presentation of colours ( 88 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. i;. to the New York Seventh it received an order to hold itself in readiness to marcli, and tlie men were in high glee, as they now expected what they had long had in view, namely, a brush with the enemy. The Potomac is a very beautiful river, and at Washing- ton its width is very great. The town of Alexandria is situated on it, at about five miles from Washington. During the time of its being in the hands of the Confederates the Secession flag might be seen quite plainly with the aid of a jgiass. The river at this part is very wide, in conse- quence of it making a great bend ; the Long liridge which crosses it is one mile and a quarter in length. Virginia as seen from the north side of the river, and the heights of Arlington behind the town of Alexandria, are very picturesque, and the country all around is most beau- tifully wooded. In early spring the varied greenness of the fohage gives a most pretty effect ; in fact, the situation of Washington, placed as it is in the centre of hills, and un- dulating ground, is charrjing. The advaTice of Northern troops on to Virginia soil in the month of May was a movement which surprised the Southerners, and some of their pickets had reason to regret it, for a portion of them became prisoners, and were brought to Washington, to await the decision of their captors. There are probably by this time as many pro-Union men in the hands of the Southerners, as pro-Secession men in the hands of the Northerners, but as the Federal Government has refused to the seceded States the rights of belligerents, many a poor fellow is kept in prison, instead of being exchanged as he would wish. If the war should be a pro- longed one, it is difficult to say whether this ground could WASHINGTON. IV,) be liold. One can liardly altogether associate the idea of rebels with men who can elect a })resident, form a govern- ment, cstabhsh a coinage, and send ministers to foreign countries. Mr. Lincoln, the president of the Xorthern States, or as he would wish no doubt to call himself — the j)resident of the United States of America, demands a few words. He is a very tall man, being six feet three or four inches high, with a sallow, haggard ex})ression. From his appearance one would think he would be much more in his element as " rail splitter'' (his original calling), than as President of this vast republic. It must be borne in mind that he does not advocate the abolition of slavery, but is merely averse to its further extension, and as far as he is personally concerned, would be contented if he could have a guarantee that it should be kept south of a certain line. At this point it is as well to make some remarks with regard to secession. The various arguments^ brought forward by the contending parties shall be mentioned, and any reader may judge for him or for herself which party has right on its side. It is pretty evident that unless one has been to America, one cannot properly discriminate as to the nicety of the questions at issue ; in fact, if one has been there the difficulty of forming a correct judgment is increased rather than lessened. As the south has taken upon itself to secede from the north, and consequently to open the ball ; in the first place their side shall be considered, and their arguments stated ; after that the Northeners shall have their due. The Confederates say they only wish to govern them- selves. They simply stand where their Revolutionary fathers .*• 40 THE UMTKI) STATES AND CANADA. stood ill 1776. They stand upon that great fundamental principle announced on the 4th of July 1776, and incor- porated in the Declaration of Independence — that great princiide that announced that the government derive their just powers from the consent of the governed. They say that after the establishment of this great prin- ciple, and its acknowledgement by Great Britain, in the treaty of 1783, when each separate state was recognized as independent, they were not recognized by the mother country as a nationality, but the independence of each Colony or State was recognised by itself. They say that after the Revolutionary war the various States entered into a constitutional compact to make common cause for the purpose of achieving individual and separate sovereign existence. They say that they have always con- sidered that the agreement entered into by the several States, was an agreement which strengthened them to repel foreign foes, and that at best it was nothing more than a partnership, where the partners finding they cannot get on together should amicably separate. The Northern side is as follows : They say that nearly every President who has been elected has been a man with pro-southern sympathies, and consequently the South has had its own way, and now that they find they can no longer have it, they claim to them- selves the right of still having their own way by breaking up the hitherto happy Union and forming a Confederacy of their own. They say[that the constitutional compact made, is binding, and that no State has the power to secede, and that if this principle is once admitted. New York itself might leave the WASHINGTON. H Union. Tlicy say that th(^ whole thing from the beginning has been one vast robbery, the greatest traitor being Mr. Floyd, formerly secretary for war, and that for years the Soutlierners from having accomplices in power have been enabled to take arms and other stores belonging to the Federal government and transport them to arsenals and storehouses on their own ground. It must not for one moment be supposed that these arguments embody anything like all that might be brought forward, and a lengthy discussion would probably be unin- teresting, and would certainly take up a great deal of room. The government of each separate State and its relation to the Federal government, also the question where the powers of the individual state end, and where the powers of the Federal Union begin, are questions involving such nice points, that a man, not thoroughly versed in American politics, cannot form an unbiassed opinion. May we m England be merely spectators, and follow out what Lord Russell said, namely, that as yet we are not mixed up with the quarrel, and for God's sake let us keep out of it I Were one to visit Washington for nothing else, one ought to pass through it in one's pilgrimage to Mount Vernon. All must venerate the memory of that great and good man, George "Washington, and every traveller in the United States should not fail, if possible, to spend a few hours on the ground which Washington so loved to tread, and in the house which he inhabited. Its owner, collaterally descended from Washington, is reported to have been slain in an encounter with the Federal troops. Pity that he should act in a way so contrary to the spirit of the " Deliverer of his country." 42 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. i; Mount Vernon is about sixteen miles below Washington, on the river Potomac. The run down by steamer on a fine day is very pleasant. The river is wide and its banks beau- tiful, their loveliness increasing as mile after mile is passed. The house and grounds of Mount Vernon gave one the idea tliree years ago of an encumbered estate, of want of cash, but some pride in the owner. This is by no means to be regretted, for the ancient house, the dilapidated tomb, the old fashioned garden, and the uncultivated grounds carried one back to the time when the " Father of his country" loved to retire from the cares of pubhc life to the repose of his sylvan home. The following is from a journal kept in 1858 : " From the landing-stage a pathway covered with rotting planks leads to the tomb. A plain brick building much in want of repair is the sepulchre. At one end is a large iron grating to permit one to see inside. In the interior are two tombs, one of Washington, one of his wife. They are both very plain sarcophagi. That of Washington was pre- sented in 1837 by a marble mason of Philadelphia. Hard by are four obehsks, monuments to various members of the Washington family. Turning from the tomb, the pathway — the same old, rotten-plank-be-covered pathway — is con- tinued till the spot where Washington's remains were first deposited is reached. An empty artificial cavern is all that is to be seen. Continuing our way, every now and then getting a beautiful view of the Potomac, we arrive at the house, which bears a very dilapidated appearance. In the hall are several engravings that belonged to Washington, and in a glass case is a key of the Bastille given to him by La Fayette." WASHINGTON. 43 ;he by Everything has in air of desolation, bat in this there is a certain propriety. Since the above was written, Mount Vernon has become the property of the nation, and steps have been taken to keep the place in a state worthy the veneration of which Washington's memory is held by all true Americans. Alas ! whose property is it now ? Let us hope that, whether possessed by North or South, those who do own it will consider it a sacred trust and treat it as the common property of the descendants of those who, com- manded and directed by that hero of heroes, successfully fought for the liberties of their country. . » CHAPTER VII. BORDER STATES. I : ,-l. The slavery question has from the first been a bone of contention in the United States. When their independence was recognised, in nearly all the thirteen slavery existed, and it was only abolished in any of them because it did not pay. Humanity had little to do with it. At that time Great Britain thought it perfectly right to have slave-hold- ing colonies, and when the United States obtained their independence they could hardly be expected to set an ex- ample to the mother country. Few doubted the propriety of slavery. In the North free labour soon beat out of the field slave labour, and the tide of slavery gradually seceded south, till at length in 1830-1, the Legislature of Virginia took seriously into consideration the question of emancipa- tion. For some time the Virginians calmly discussed the pros and cons. Nobody then dreamt of talking of slavery as a "Divine Institution," and its warmest advocates defended it on the ground of its expediency. Abolitionists, however, began to clamour, the emancipation of the negroes in our West India colonies presented to the planters a mon- opoly of the growth of sugar and cotton, and the golden opportunity was lost. From that time the chains of the slave have been yearly more firmly riveted, the demands of the slave-holders have become more arrogant, their apology for the wrong has changed into a defence of the right, the BORDER STATES. 45 North has submittecl to Fugitive Slave Laws, Drcd Scott decisions, and the like, until the Southerners thought they were going to carry everything before them, and in their disappointment and vexation at the election of Lincoln, seceded from the Union. No slave states have been so interested — I will not say in the maintenance, but — in the discussion of slavery as those known as the Border States. These are Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, Kentucky, and Missouri. In these states whites can with ease work in the fields, and slaves are, perhaps, regarded more as property than as being the only suitable tillers of the ground. Thousands of negroes are sold every year to the dealers for the southern market, where the cotton plantations can absorb any number of hands. Little cotton is growTi in the Border States, their principal staple articles being cereals, tobacco, flax and hemp ; but still the briskest trade, and that which the whites fancy is the most profitable, is the traffic in slaves. Eichmond especially is the great auction mart, and in that city may any day bo seen knocked down to the highest bidder human chattel black slaves, white slaves, slaves of every intermediate hue, men slaves, women slaves, girl slaves, boy slaves, mothers with infai ts, and mothers without infants, slaves that have been well treated, and slaves who bear the marks of cruel scourgings. But what matter ? Is not the curse upon the descendants of Ham? do not ministers of religion even own slaves? have slaves feelings ? does a slave mother care more to be separated from her infant than the cow from her calf? With such like impious arguments and assertions is this body and soul destroying system justified. A drop of negro blood is sufficient to keep these helpless ones in servitude. 40 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. •;:'! and many a slave is whiter than liis master. So much for the " Ham^' theory. It is just another case of might being right. Thirty years ago Virginia apologized for slavery ; since then Texas and New Mexico have been conquered from Mexico. An increased demand for slaves sprung up, the Border States no longer found their property hanging on their hands, but discovered an easy way of turning it to ])rofit ; and now families are separated, the human animal is carefully bred and reared, and all the year round the ac- cursed traffic goes on. It must in justice be said of many owners that nothing but necessity will drive them to part with their slaves. Among people of ton it is not considered to be the thing, and slaves are sold only as a last resource to raise money, or because they have a habit of running away. Happily, notwithstanding the Fugitive Slave Law (to the passing of which the world owes 'Uncle Tom's Cabin'), and the many hindrances, slaves are constantly evading the vigilance of their masters, and escape into the Northern States. Here they are only comparatively safe, and with the help of sympathizing friends, make their way to Canada. The abohtionists near the border are constantly on the look-out to aid any fugitives who escape, and spite of all the extreme precautions taken, many slaves living near the line of separation manage to get away. When a slave fails in this, and is returned to his master, he is generally sold South, as he would be sure to try aud run off again, in which he would be much helped by the knowledge gained in the previous attempt. From the cotton plantations escapes are rare : the distance to be travelled is great, no coloured person, bond or free, can go about without a pass, and, as a chief obstacle, the slaves are extremeh ignorant. BORDER STATES. 47 They are taught nothing, not even to read, and in most states severe penalties attend the giving any slave instruction. Of course some degree of knowledge is sure to be gained somehow, but many slaves are quite ignorant of there being a land of freedom anywhere. This is just what the planters desire. Let a slave not know of the possibility of bettering his condition, and he will, of course, remain quiet. Occa- sionally an owner takes a fancy to manumit some favourite slave, or he may be conscious of the sin of holding in bon- dage his fellow creatures ; but he is hindered in his humane intentions by the barbarous law which compels every liberated slave at once to leave the state in which he has lived all his days, in which are his friends and kindred, perhaps his wife ; in which he may, if he be an intelligent man, have made a good business, and be doing well as a carpenter, blacksmith, or at some other handicraft. Eman- cipation is thus by no means in all cases desired. Poetry and fancy may say a good deal about "breathing freedom^s air," but it is a serious thing to leave wife, family, and means of existence. Means of existence requires a little explanation. From the dislike that most men of standing have to sell their slaves, it frequently happens, especially in the Border States, that a man will have more negroes than he can well use. This is especially applicable to professional men, who can use their slaves as domestic servants only. To turn their unprofitable " property" to account, it is cus- tomary to hire their slaves out as servants to hotel- keepers, or, in fact, to anyone who is in want of servants. Another plan, frequently adopted, is to teach a slave some trade, and to let him follow this trade, retaining for himself all his earnings, except a fixed weekly or monthly sum, to be paid 48 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. to his owner. In this way many slaves make money enough to purchase their freedom, and if the above-men- tioned obstacles do not stand in their way, they pay the money down, and off they go. There is no doubt that many slaves are as happy as other mortals. It is no use comparing a thoroughly ignorant man with one who has received some education. Most negroes have kind masters, good shelter, warm clothing, and plenty to eat. Many a Dorsetshire labourer is far worse off. While a free man may starve and suffer, and nobody be the worse except himself, a slave is at least as valuable as a liorse, and it is the interest of his owner to take care of him. This argument is not one in justification of slavery, but it is meant to deprecate the idea that total and imme- diate abolition is a duty. An important aspect of slavery is its baneful effect upon the whites. In the Slave States poor whites will not con- descend to put themselves in competition with slaves, and, unless driven to it by extreme vant, refuse to labour with their hands. There is thus a large class of needy loafers, dependent upon the charity of the planters, and, in return, ready in any way, per fas aut nefas, to uphold for their benefactors the "Divine institution .'' The presence of a large number of idle men, and the almost total absence of intelligent, skilled artisans, are great drawbacks to the prosperity of the South. In the first place, these men consume without producing ; in the second place, the work which they might do has to be done in the North, thus eiu-iching the Tree at the expense of the Slave States. This seems obvious enough to the impartial observer; but the Southerners are so blinded by prejudice and passion, that BORDER STATES. 49 they will not and cannot sec that slavery does not " pay." That is the simple fact ; it enriches iiulividuals, but im- poverishes the body politic. The differtince between the North and the South in material prosperity is easily seen. Where are the railways, where the tliriving towns, where the manufactures, where the population ? A glance at the map is sufficient to show that where the North is going ahead at steam rate, the progress of the South may more aptly be compared to the old canal barge. Figures show still better the vast superiority of the North in money, men, and resources. At the commencement of the century the rateable value of property in the South exceeded that of the North; now it is far behind. All this is due to the ex- istence of slavery, which curses both white and black. It acts as a clog upon all work, as a chain upon all enterprise, and in both ways the sin brings its own retribution. Nor must one omit to mention the evil effect slavery has upon the morals of both black and white. This cannot be more than alluded to ; but where masters have irresponsible power, and slaves scarcely know the difference between right and wrong, uncurbed cruelty and licentiousness are sure to result. I'or slaves there is no marriage law, but their owners may, and frequently do, put them in this respect on the footing of cattle. A word respecting the value of slaves, which, like that of horses, varies considerably according to the soundness, the sex, the disposition, the age, the applicability of the human animal. Thus, a good-looking, well brought up mulatto or quadroon girl will fetch from 2000 dollars upwards, if she happen to take the fancy of some libertine. Skilled me- chanics, intelligent men, qualified to act as overseers, fetch 4> 50 TUK UNITED STATES AND CANADA. from 1500 to 2000 dollars ; young and sound farm or plantation hands arc worth about 1200 dollars. With re- gard to woin(;n, domestic servants arc wortii more than ()l hers, dressmakers and laundresses still more ; while the value of all depends much upon their age, and the chances of their liaving many children, which are always the pro- perty of the owner of the mother. This was about the value of slaves three years ago. The tendency has been upwards till the outbreak of the civil war, which has much deprecia- ted this kind of ])roperty, and will do so still more. It is to be hoped that in the end the slave will be worth nothing, the freeman much. A point is here touched on, about which much has been said and written. It is said that were the negroes to be freed, they would not work. In some degree this is very true; the eifect of emancipation in Jamaica shows this to be the case. But that the black man can and will work without compulsion is conclusively proved by the industry of the free negroes in the Northern States and in Canada. Still there can be no doubt that freedom would produce in the majority of the brutalised, ignorant plantation hands such a revulsion of feehng, that it would be long before they would again take to regular labour. This is to be expected ; history and human nature demonstrate it. To leave this subject, and refer to that which is more pleasant, is a grateful task. Virginia, from its antiquity, its names of renown, its present im])ortance, its population, may well claim pre-eminence among the Border States. This, the earliest of England's transatlantic colonies, was founded by Sir Walter Raleigh, who loyally named it in honour of his queen. The first settlement was Jamestown, BORDER STATES. 51 OH an island in the James River, thirty-two miles above its entrance into Chesapeake Bay. Nothing remains of it but the ruins of its ancient brick church, and a few tomb- stones. Its site is the property of one of the wealthiest gentlemen in Virginia, who finds it the most profitable of his farms. The James lliver is a noble and beautiful stream. Its banks found early settlers, many of the dtjscendants of whom still live there in the old ancestral home?, looking for all the world (difference of climate causing some variety) just like the EHzabethan mansions so ])rized in England. Those who live in them and are settled on those noble estates, to wliich tlu^ river forms a common highway, are known as " E. E. V.'^s (Eirst Eamihes in Virginia), and in this democratic country they are very proud of the distinc- tion. There are E. E. V.s in other parts of the state, of course, and many a Kentuckian whose ancestor, perhaps, came over when the Stuarts were kings, and settled in the older state, lays claim to the title. The hospitality of Virginian gentlemen is proverbial. In 1858 the waiter of this chapter landed from a steamboat at the pier of a gentle- man's estate, with his portmanteau, hat-box, and carpet-bag. The Virginian had not before heard of the stranger, yet, without even reading the letter of introduction, welcomed him, and entertained him four days. In Virginia, people do not wait to be invited, but go with bag and baggage when it suits them to their fi'iends' houses, and remain as long as they please. Virginia is rich in natural beauties and resources, but the existence of slavery deprives the settlers of much of the advantage of the latter. The Alleghany Mountains run right through the state, dividing it in two, the western 52 TIIK UNITKD STATES AND CANADA. portion boinp; imicli sniiiller than the eastern. The scenery of tlicse mountains is extremely beautiful: they are not bleak, but covered with forests, in which roam wild animals, from the bear to the deer, and in which lurk snakes of all sizes, harmless and venomous. There is but little popula- tion in this part of the state. Towns are situated at dis- tances from each other of Trora sixty to one hundred miles, mid a coach travels between them about three times a- week. The roads are very rough, and try very much the heavy, lumbering stages, and cause severe shakings to the pas- sengers. In summer there is a great influx of visitors to these mountains, as they are full of sulphur springs. Probably few but invalids seek them, the discomforts of travelling being so great, and little, but having no clioice, could drive an invalid to brave the, to him, agonies of the journey. There are few sheep and cattle in the mountains, and the inhabitants live chiefly on ham. One of the first things the health-seeking invalid is told by his medical man is, that he must eat fresh meat. To get this, great effort is required on the part of the hotel proprietors, and the country is scoured for miles round for fresh provisions. In this part of Virginia, just to the west of the Alleghanies, is Charleston, a thriving to\^Ti of 1500 inhabitants. Here the famous Captain John Brown. leader of that hopeless attempt at Harper's Ferry in 1859, was executed. This part of the state is not, however, remarkable for its devotion to slavery. Charleston is on the river Kanawha, and every one knows that a remarkable Unionist feeling has shown itself, and that it has been projected to make of the Kana- wha valley and country north of it, a separate state, to be attached to the Federal portion of the Union. BORDER STATES. 5:3 be Before leaving Virginia, one must not omit to mention the celebriited Natural Bridge. There are several natural bridges in America, but that of Virginia is tlu; Ixjst known and the most worthy of a visit. This is formed by a stratum of rock being left by nature, over a deep chasm. At the bottom of this chasm flows a little stream, more than 200 feet below the bridge. The rent in the rocky ground is 00 feet wide. This is, therefore, the length of the bridge. Its width is GO feet, and its depth or thickness is from 45 feet in the middle of the arch to 60 feet at the abutments. The bridge is almost a perfect ellipsis, and its own symmetry, aided by the beauty of the surrounding scenery, strikes one with wonder, awe, and delight. To the west of Virginia is Kentucky, one of th(! fimst and most fertile of the States. It was originally part of its elder sister, and was not colonized till the latter end of last century, up to wliich time it was in undisputed possession of the Indians, who bravely fought for their hunting- grounds. It was admitted to the Union in 1792. Ken- tucky can boast of some of the tallest and best built men in America. These descendants of the brave and enterprising founders of the colony are worthy the reputation of their fathers, and Kentuckians are still noted for their activity, their courage, and their being crack rifle shots. Among the natural wonders of the state is the Mammoth Cave, a full description of which is given in a separate chapter. A few words are due to Missouri, a large and promising state, now ravaged by internecine war. It is to be hoped that the war will result in freeing this fine state, the climate of which is well adapted for whites, from the curse of slavery. It should always have been a free state ; but it 54 THE UNITKI) STATES AND CANADA. was here that tlic Soutlirrn party brgan that srrirs of afji^rcssions wliicli roused tlu; Nortli, and liave at Icuj^th brouglit about tlic present stale of tliinj^s. Missouri lias a climate similar to that of Italy, and abounds in those types of plenty, corn, oil, and wine, its chief city is St. Louis, but for anything to be said about tliat, the reader is referred to the cliapter on " Western Cities." In conclusion, these Border States have had least of the advantages of slavery, and are now receiving more than their shan; of the horrors attendant on a war caused by the "institution." Africans are certainly more ada])ted for the cotton field than white men, but where wheat is the prin- cii)al produce of the earth, white hibour is much more efH- cicnt. In this way, then, from the inability of the owners in the Border States to use their slaves profitably, they have suffered ; while they have suffered again from the compara- tive facility with which the slaves can escape, and they are now enduring all the privations attendant upon their coun- try being made the battlefield of the oj)posing parties. CllAPTlUl Vlll. TlIK MAMMOTH CAVK. The Mammoth Cavo. Tlu'sc words may j)robal)ly soiuul strangely on some jM'ople's cars; a sort of induf'mite notion may exist in tlie minds of many tluit tliey have h(>ard or reail something of this cave. Probably some indistinct recoUec- tioii may occnr to those accnstomed to walk about Loudon of having seen men with boards, on which was announced some lecture, some panorama, or some description of this extraordinary place. Some may have inuigined it a myth, or some sort of dreamy idea, so far away from the haunts of civihzation that it was not worthy the notice of sensible men. After all, hitlierto, the States of America form a ])or- tion of the globe which excites little interest, and little atten- tion in the thoughts of Englishmen and women, and the ignorance displayed as to the geographical position of to^vns, and mayy other subjects, is deplorable. AVhat is this Mammoth Cave? in what part of the world is it? what is to be seen there ? and a variety of similar questions may be asked, and it is the privilege of comparatively few to be able to throw any light on the subject, or to give any satis- factory explanation of one of Nature's most curious freaks. That the Mammoth C'^.v^e is a reality, that it is within the range of civilized humanity, that it is as the Americans would say a " great fact " is indisputable, and this chapter shall, if possible, give some slight notion of its wonders. 56 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. Slight, indeed, must be the notion, for this cave is one of those places which must be seen to be appreciated, and one of those places which it would be impossible to be disap- point(!d witli, however one's feelings and imagination might have been worked up prcnously. The Falls of Niagara '3very one has heard of, and it would be thought an insult to doubt one's knowledge of the existence and of the position of this wonderful cataract, but the Mammoth Cave for its remarkable characler is by no means inferior; then why, one may ask, is it not more generally known, why has it not been more generally explored ? The answer is tliat^ for Enghslimen, for Americans, for Canadians, it is out of the l)eaten line of travel, and that if one wishes to see it, a special journey must be made to get to it. When its won- derful charms get to be m'^TP^, generally known and appre- ciated, and when gr'^ater facilities are offered, every one will of course go, but at present the number of Englishmen who have visited the cave is very small. But to proceed, the Mammoth Cave is situated in Ken- tucky, in the midst of a wild, picturesque, and most roman- tic country ; in fact, a portion of the country, which is very , deservedly celebrated for its fertile soil, and for the luxu- riance of its vegetation. Kentucky is one of the finest states in the Union ; tlie mv.ii brought up here are a fine race. To go to the cave one has to travel from the town of Louisville by the Louisville and Nashville railway to a station, called Cave City. This station is at a d.dtance of nine and a half miles from the cave. The road is through forest for the most })art of the way, and is very beautiful. The population is very small just here, and the woods present the same aspect as when the Indians were the only inhabitant*? of the dis- THE MAMMOTH C.WE. 57 trict. Wild deer are found, also wild turkeys in abundance, and many other animals of less note. The State of Kentucky is said to be full of caves, and although the Mammoth is the only one well known to those ut a distance, there are several others of considerable propor- tions. x\mong them may be mentioned — \Vhite\s Cave, the Occola Cave, the Ilundi-ed Dome Cave, the Diamond Cave. It is thought that possibly at some future date a con- nection between all these wonderful subterranean passages will be found, and that the whole will form one vast cavern, into the recesses of which delighted travellers will venture. The Mammoth Cave Hotel is about two or three hundred yards from the entrance of the cave. It is a very good house, and has accommodated during the season as many as 500 persons at one time. Night and day are the same with regard to the interior of the Cave, it being pitch dark at all times. No noise has ever been heard except that occasioned by visitors, and from the dripping of water in some parts. The living things to be found inside are very few, and have never been known to make the slightest sound. There are lizards, bats, crickets, white cat fish and crawfish in Echo Eiver, and an animal which resembles a rat, but having a head like a rabbit, and which has never been seen in the open air ; the footsteps of this animal may be seen occasionally in the dust. In the Cave there are an immense quantity of avenues which have never been explored, and which it is thought might lead somewhere, and thus make the place greater in extent than it is supposed to be, but parties who have made up their minds to investigate thorouglily have I'* 58 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. >' 4, Jil, always returned to daylight after the absence of a few days, not being able to endure their underground imprisonment any longer. There are two routes to be followed, the Short lloute, and the Long Koute. The Short lloute takes from four to five hours, the Long from eight to ten, this latter being eighteen miles to the extreme end and back. There is at all seasons of the year an equable temperature of fifty-nine degrees, thus in summer it is a cool place to enter, and in winter a warm one. In summer there is always a strong wind coming out of the mouth, and in wintei' a strong wind going in ; this necessitates care on the part of visitors that their lamps may not be extinguished. The discovery of the Mammoth Cave is very recent, being as late as the year 1802, but there is very good reason to believe that it must have been known ere this to the Indians. When first discovered two mummies were found, one of an Indian woman the other of an Indian child. The guides to the Cave (for it is literally impossible to do without a guide) are Mat and Nick, coloured men, and Sank a white man. Mut is the oldest and most experienced, and a first rate fellow in every w^ay ; he is not black, but a sort of brown or copper colour, and wears a shaggy moustache and beard. With his smock frock, his snufi- coloured trousers, and his slouched hat he looks quite a picture. Mat and Nick are brothers. It is estimated that the former has travelled upwards of fifty thousand miles in this wonderful cavern. Immediately after break- fast is the best time to commence one's explorations, and accompanied by those vioitors who happen to be at the hotel, and with a guide in advance, a person may commence the journey. Ladies frequently walk the whole distance. THE MAMMC/TH CAVE. 59 but the uniform temperature of the air prevents a feeling of exhaustion, and thits a greater amount of bodily exercise may be endured. It is on making . ne's exit from the cave that fatigue is felt, that is to say, on coming in contact with the external air. Each pedestrian carries an oil lamp, and all walk in single file, with the guide at their head. Mat, IVick, or Sank, whichever it may be, carries on his arm a basket containing dinner (as one does not get out before tea time), and in his pocket a quantity of blue lights, with which he; at times lights up the most striking and interesting portions. Tliese lights send a lurid glare over the prominent objects, and give a very curious effect. One of the principal objects of interest is a portion of the Cave where at one time consumptive patients were brought to live. Some doctor had conceived the idea that great benefit would result from the absence of changes in the temperature of the air ; accordingly several poor crea- tures entered, and were placed on beds in small rooms built for the purpose, but bad in the place of good effects were found to be the result. One poor creature stopped there several months. The patients were taken out emaciated, pale, haggard, and in a much worse condition tiian when they entered. A medical man used to visit them every day to watch progress, and a black servant went in several times in the day to take medicine and food. The chfficulty of finding one's way is very great, and without a guide one would be lost ; occasionally people are foolish enough to wander away from the rest of the party, and on these occasions when discovered again they are generally found to be in a great state of fear, with the per- ■ .i> IT*^' 60 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. spiration streaming down them. As many as seventy visitors have been known to enter at one time, and on such occasions it is the habit of the guide to count over his proteges every now and then to see that none are missing. The guides always keep a large stock of oil in the Cave, for if this important article were to run short, it is probable tliat they would not be able to find their way back again, and the consequences might very likely be the falling down one of the many chasms or pits contained inside. Gorin's Dome and the Mammoth Dome are very inte- resting objects, the distance from the ground to the roof being very great. The Star Chamber is probably the most wonderful thing to be seen, as by placing the lights in a certain position, from the curious formation of the ceiling an exact representation is seen of the stars, and could any one be brought in without knowing it, the delusion must be complete. Echo Ri^er is a wide stream which has to be crossed in a boat in order to advance on one's way. At times the water is so high that it is impossible to cross it, on account of its rising close to the roof; but this is very rare. Fat Man's Misery is a narrow, tortuous passage, through which it is very difficult to progress, but it is said no man has ever been known to fail in getting through ; probably a man of very large dimensions would not be willing to attempt the journey. At the end of this passage is a large chamber with a very characteristic title, namely Great Relief. The Snowball Chamber is a part of the cave celebrated for its beautiful formations. On the roof are collected a large number of these stalactites which very closely resemble what the place takes its name from. But the numerous places of interest are very large; the THE MAMMOTH CAVE. 01 more prominent of these are Giant's Coffin, Bottomless Pit, Eocky Mountains, Infernal Regions, and the Maelstrom, to describe which would require a small volume. But to have any idea of the wonderful Mammoth Cave every one must see it for himself, and until then he cannot appreciate its beauties. The following is extracted from Appleton's ^Handbook of American Travel,' having reference to the Mammoth Cave. "Nowhere is the air in the slightest degree impure. So free is the cave from re})tiles of every kind, that St. Patrick might be supposed to have exerted his fabled aimihilating power in its favour. " Combustion is everywhere perfect. No decomposition is met with. The waters of the springs and rivers of the cave are habitually fresh and pure. The temperature is equable at all seasons at 59° Fahrenheit. Thus no one need, through any appre- hension, deny himself the novel delight of a ramble along the 226 avenues, under the forty-seven domes, by the eight cataracts, the twenty-three pits, and the ' thousand and one ' marvellous scenes and objects of this magnificent and most matchless Cave." 'v?» '.!» I CHAPTER IX. WESTERN CITIES. The marvellous and rapid growth, and the increasing im})ortancc of such cities as Chicago, St. Louis, Cincinnati and others less known, form quite a noticeable feature in the aspect of tlie United States. Tliirty years ago Chicago was known only to the Indian and the trapper, and St. Louis had only 7000 inhabitants. Now, St. Louis has probciUy a population of 150,000, Chicago, of 200,000, and Cincinnati a still larger. These cities are, of course, the result of the settlement and opening up of new states. The western farmers and backwoodsmen must have markets where they can stow and sell their grain and timber, and these cities are simply the emporia in which is conducted the immense carrying trade between the rich and fertile West and the Atlantic sea-ports. Cincinnati can now hardly be called a western city, it being in a state to the east of Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and Kansas, in the same latitude. It is situated on the Ohio, and shares with Louisville — taking, however, the lion's portion, — the trade between the consuming southern states and the producing northern states, Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois. This trade is chiefly in pork, thousands of barrels of which are yearly packed to be sent to all parts of the globe. The foundation of Cincinnati is certainly pork. Warehouses are built, fortunes are made, trade is kept up — by pork. If " pork is dull"' Chicinnati is dull, if " pork WESTERN CITIES. 63 is brisk," Cincinnati is so, too. Though Cincinnati is chiefly dependent on pork, it is not wliolly so, a good trade l)eing dune in wine. Most people liave heard of Long- worth's Catawba. Much of the soil in the Border States aiid others in the same latitude is suitable for tlie culture of the vine, but the high price of labour will for the present, at ,^ll events, prevent any very large quantity of wine being manufactured. The wine is very expensive, and could never be exported, as its price would in Europe much exceed that of its equals in quality from the banks of the Ehine or the south of I'rance. Mr. Longworth, who introduced the culture of the vine into the United States, displayed great enterprise and went to considerable expense at the outset. He found it necessary to bring over I'renchmen who understood the business, and it has always been a matter of difficulty to teach Americans to rear the vine, and then to manufacture the wine. The most celebrated of these wines is the Spark- ling Catawba, which some connoiseurs declare equal to the finest Champagne. All western cities are much alike and when one has seen Cincinnati, one has a good idea of the others. Louisville, the chief city of Kentucky is just a smaller Cincinnati. It is on the left bank of the Ohio, 183 miles below Cincinnati. In one of the suburbs is an Artesian well, bored by the proprietors of a paper mill to a depth of upwards of 2000 feet, when they struck a mineral spring, the water of which is strongly impregnated with sulphur. It is highly recommended for its medicinal properties, and thousands of bottles are annually packed off to various parts of the Union. if» C4 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. The rapid growth of Cliicago excocds that of any other first class city in the United States. This is due to its admirable position on Lake Michigan, M'hich makes it the natural emporium of the extreme north-west states and territories, all the produce of which comes through Chicago, whence it is forwarded by rail or ship to tlie eastern states or even to Europe. Vessels come (Hrect from Chicago by Lakes Michigan, Huron, Erie and Ontario, and the river St. Lawrence to tlie Atlantic Ocean, which tliey traverse, carrying their cargo of grain to Liverpool. This may give one some idea of the wonderful facilities for traiis])ort oll'ered by the lakes and rivers of North America, for Cliicago is by water some 1500 miles from Quebec. The substantial importance of Chicago is evident to the traveller, for there is not a city in America which gives such evident signs of its material prosperity. The principal railway station — called depot in America — is a model worthy the attention of both cis- and trans-atlantic railvYays directors. Most depots in America are little better than sheds, while in England the opposite extreme is too often run into. That at Chicago is all that it should be — sohd, substantial, commodious, and well-adapted to its purpose. One has also only to notice the handsome City Hall, the fine hotels, the wide and well-puved streets, the magnificent warehouses, the elegant private residences, to be convinced that the prosperity of Chicago is real and not mere varnish. Of course, all is not on this scale. The city, which but thirty years ago, was only a rude settlement, still retains many of the little wooden tenements, built when it was just rising into note. It is curious to see in the finest streets, inter- spersed liere and there among handsome, lofty stone and WESTERN CITIES. 05 brick -buiklinf,'s, a little, low-roomed, two-storeyed shanty. All these will eventually eome down, as the nninicipal authorities a})pear to be up to the nuirk, and intend that in all outward respects Chicago shall do credit to its in- habitants. St. Louis comes under the distinction of being one of the great Western Cities. It is situated on tiie Mississippi in the state of Missouri and in common with all the other western towns has among its inhabitants avastcpiantity of (jlcnnans. The hotel acconunodation in this rising city is inferior, but will in a little time be jjrobably very good, as two monster buildings are hi the course of erection, and when linislrcd will doubtless offer extra attractions to the weary traveller. St. Ijouis is a sort of startnig i)lace where preparations are made for exploration on to the boundless prairies. Origin- ally the place was settletl as being a convenient trading station for the trappers, and the town forms an important centre of commerce for all descriptions of goods. The site of the town was chosen by a Erenchmau, of the name of Laclede in the year 1764, but the Erench did not hold it long, as it was taken possession of in 1708 by Spanish trooi)s, whose government kept it until 1801, when they transferred the town to the United States under whose dominion it has ever since remained. The city lies on the right bank of the river and forms a connection between the eastern states and California ; it is also the place from which those who are sufficiently adventurous journey to the Kocky Mountains. The immense quantity of steamers on the levee cannot fail to strike a stranger. At this point, the Mississippi is verv wide, and travellers from the east have to cross the 5 ('.() Tin: INITED STATKS AND CANADA. river in a large steam ferry, when coming from the train, in order to reach tlie town. There is a railway extending west from St. Jjouis ratlier more than on(! hnndred mihs, bnt beyond this those who desire to travel have to make use of waggons or some such })rimitive makeshil't. A noticeable feature in all Western Cities is the Cjerman element. Thousands of Germans leave their fatherland and their pnternal governf»ient, and find a home in the United States. They are found in numbers in Pennsylvania, Western Virginia, and Texas, but they es])ecially jjredomi- natc in Cincinnati, Louisville, and St. Louis. (Jne hears German spoken in the streets, the j)Mblic ])roclamations are printed in German a? well as in English ; there are German newspapers, German theatres, German colonies, and many a little fair-haired brat shows, especially wlien contrasted with the native American infant, unmi *ukablc signs of Teutonic origin. These Germans are gen rally quiet, hard- working people, and give little trouble. They bring over many of their old-country customs, which occasionally be- come "institutions" in America; as, for example, the lager beer, which is largely drunk by them, and is making its way in the estimation of Americans, who, as a rule, drink whisky, or some other e([ually reprehensible spirit. Irish and English are also found in great numbers in the West. The Irish do not leave in the Emerald Isle their love of noise and riot, and, it must be added, their good quahties of hard work and good humour. They, take a great part in poHtics, and the Irish votes are not a little important to candidates for any office, federal or state. Both they and the Germans form a large proportion of the United States army, and we now hear of whole regiments WKSTKRN CITIKS. (;7 of both beiiii' raiscMl in tlie various iiortluTii states to <. Kiiii^ston, at the foot of Lake Ontiirio, is one of the oldest towns in Canada, and a fort was erected on its site, when the colony Mas in the possession of the Frencli. It is pret- tily situated, but somehow or other hiis sciircelv shared in the great advance made by other Canadian towns in trade and ])()puliition. All the lakes, but especially Erie, are occasionally sub- ject to storms. Of course, whenever a high wind sweeps over a large expanse of water, this water is sure to be disturbed. Sometimc^s these storms arc quite enough to ])revent boats from putting off, and wave after wave may be seen dashing on the shore with terrific fury. The water is remarkably clear, and requires no filter to render it fit to drink. Conseciuently, of course, ice is chenp throughout Canada and the United States, and to those living on the lakes, it is no further expense than the hire of a cart and man to stoAV it awav in the ice-house. In the larue towns the ice merchant has quite a lucrative trade, and requires large warehouses to store awny his stock. The lakes abound with lish, many of them peculiar to Americii. Some, as the black bass and the maskelonge, have a good repute for Havour. Lakes Erie and Ontario have frecjuently been the scene of competition between various steand)oat companies, but the former is especially noted for this and for the great size, speed, and accommodation of the boats. In England we have had railway companies taking passengers to Man- TIIC LAKKS. 81 chcstcT and buck for five shillings, \)\\i on thr Aincriciin rivtrs and lakes rivalry has sometimes proceeded to that extent, that where one company has oll'ered to convey jnis- sengers for nothing, another has inunediati'ly outbid it by giving a breakfast into the bargain. The glories of those days have, however, departed, time is sure to compete successfully with low fares and lirst-rat(; accommodation in xVmerica, and railways have beaten, for all business j)ur- poses, steamers out of the tield. Americans j)refer sleepless nights in dust-bechmded cars to the elegance and comfort of the steamboat saloon and cabin, if any time is to be gained by the exchange. In Kngland, who would not pre- fer the well-cushioned, easy-going, first-class railway car- riage, to the most comfortable channel or German Ocean steamer of which he has any ac([uaintance ? But in America, it is just the reverse. There the railway car is hot, dusty, and shaky. It holds, perhaps, sixty persons, and as there is no distinction of class, one does not know who one may have for companions. Some of the roads are so bad that one fears the car will be momentarilv jolted off the Hne. In the boats on the contrary, as de- cribecl in Chapter IV, ry attention is paid to comfort, convenience, and evm iixury. Thus, in some of these Lake Erie boats hot- water was laid on in every state-room. Three years ago, they were so deprer iated in value through the railways that then owners sold them to some company which intended running them to San Trancisco. They were 300 feet long, and it was found to be a matter of no small diificulty getting them down the rapids above Montreal, as in some parts the channel takes such abrupt turns through the rocks, that with all the skill and strength 6 ^. V] ->> o / A W IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 Mit^ 12.5 130 "^ mew u Hi £ %& 12.0 K ll^i^lMI 6" Photographic _Sciences Corporation h 1a v-.V^ J 4^ ^ ^ >^ rv 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) •72-4503 f' 1 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. •■•f'^ of the steersmen, a bum]) or two were unavoidable. How- ever they got through in safety, and are now probably conveying passengers on the Pacific. With regard to railways, a few remarks may not be amiss here. They have been of incalculable advantage to America, opening up the country through forests, across prairies, where before no roads of any kind existed. In Europe railways grow out of the recjuiremcnts of population, in America railways have given birth to population. Theie is seldom more than one line on the railways, and the road is frecjuently constructed in the rudest manner. As high rates of speed are not recjuircd, these lines answer their purpose very well. In fact, money is scarce and commands a high rate of interest, the population is very thin, and in all but the Eastern States and the chief high- ways, it is a question between a cheap railway and no rail- way at all. Most railway accidents in England are due to colHsions, express travelling, and excursion trains. In America, perhaps not more than four trains run ej ch way during the day, so coHisions are scarcely possible, and in the few cases in which excursion trains are sent off, thev can well be timed to get clear of the regular traffic. It is not an uncommon thing for an embankment to give way, or a bridge to fall in, or a train to run off the line, but the low rate of sp(>ed goes far to neutraHze accidents arising from these causes. Where in England railway companies have to pay an enormous price for land, in America it is not unusual to give the companies a certain amount of land on each side of the line. This land, of course, immediately rises in value and the company pay themselves in this way, for as THE LAKES. s;> tliere may be in new districts no other roads of any de- scription, settlers are only too glad to farm that land, the produce of which can be so readily sent to a good market. Wood is so plentiful in America that it is used both in steamboats and railway engines instead of coal. An im- mense quantity is consumed, and fresh supplies have con- stantly to be taken in at different stations. This biirnin«' of wood has very disagreeable consequences on the railways, for the cars get full of ashes and little bits of charcoal, blackening faces and dresses and rivalling the dust in giving annoyance to passengers. CHAPTER XI L THE FALLS OF NlAfiARA. '* > This, of all places the great attraction of the Continent of America, is known to everyone, evervwhere. Who has not heard of the Falls, who has not read of them ? But the question, who has seen them ? is one which not a large number on this side of the Atlantic can answer in the affir- mative. All those who can spare the time and the money sliould go ami see for themselves, and with the probable benefit derived from the sea voyage, and the many objects of interest to visit in America thev would not be dissatisfied with their trip. The idea, that the huge volume of water is continually in motion, that at any time of the day or night that one looks, at all seasons, it is always moving, is very grand. The icy coldness of winter has no power to impede the force of this mighty cataract, but huge icicles are formed in the less tui'bulent parts, while the great volume of water still contiimes to pour over the rocks with its deep rumbhng noise. The Falls of Niagara are on a river of the same name, which forms a connecting link between lakes Erie and Ontario, and divides a portion of the State of New York on its western boundary from Canada. Goat Island is an island which divides the river into two portions, thereby causing two cataracts, one of which is known as the Ame- rican, the other as the Canadian Fall. The Canadian, for volume of water is very superior to the American ; it also THE FALLS OF XLVGARA. s;j ping down the population. There is, again, in the lower classes, little attachment to the British crown, nnd they readily exchange a Queen for a President. Many are rather pleased to do so, some, for the sake of change, some, because they fancy they really benefit them- selves politically. In Canada, however, the franchise is low, the game laws are not particularly stringent, there are no powerful, tyrannical landlords, and no oppressive capitalists. These four great grievances of the poor in Great Britain have, therefore, no place in Canada, and it would not be difficult to show, that in all that constitutes real liberty Canada is far to be preferred to the mob-governed United States. The climate of Canada is very trying. Extreme heat in summer and extreme cold in winter are its characteristics. Snow rests on the ground for months and the glories of sleighing are enjoyed in good earnest ; the thermometer falls below zero, and furs are imperative. It has been observed that the winters have lately become milder. This is attributed to the extensive cutting down of the forests which hold the snows and thus lower the temperature of the air borne across them by the wind. Of the summer it may be said that on the lakes the nights are always cool, a refreshing breeze always springing up with sunset. IlESOUnCES OP CANADA. 101 The principal exports are grain and lumber, and it would be well if Canada devoted lier attention to these. But the fact is, the Canadians chafe at their want of manufactures, and protective and prohibitory tariffs prevail. This is sheer machiess, for wliere there is ample work in luitural channels for the whole popidation, it cannot be worth while to draw industiy into less productive undertakings. It is surely better to exchange good wheat for good clotli, than to leave your wheat ungrown for the sake of making bad cloth. The folly of Protection has been clearly demon- strated theoretically and experimentally, and it needs not here to recapitulate the arguments and factvS, but one does deplore that in the Northern States of the Union and in Canada such suicidal ideas should prevail. The foundation of all wealth is labour, and the only question is to apply labour to the best advantage, and if Canada can readily find a market for all the wheat and lumber she can export, it cannot be worth her while to employ hands wliicli must thus be profitably used in raising or manufacturing that which is imperfectly produced and winch is not readily sold. It is the old mistake of looking upcn money as constituting the riches of a country. Money is simply the medium of barter or exchange, and it cannot matter to Canada whether she makes her cloth herself, or with the hands employed in its manufacture, raises m.ore wheat to exchange for the produce of England's looms. This is supposing she makes cloth equal to ours, and with the same facility, but then she does not, so is, therefore, by much the loser. It is to be hoped that the short-sightedness of this policy will soon give way to more enlightened principles, and that Canada's energies will be devoted to developing those • J 102 THE UNI! KD STATES AND CANADA. roHOurces in wliicli she un([uostioiiably excels. In Canadn there is no coal, and it may readily be understood how tliis deficiency must stand in the way of manufactures. The richest soil and the most genial climate of the colony are in that portion of it which lies between Lake Ontario and the lower part of Lake Huron, and is bounded on the south by Lake Erie. This is the southernmost part of Canada, and here farming produces rich results. It is intersected by two railways, and ports are not far distant, thus enabling the colonist readily to dispose of his produce. There is a great deal of bad farming both in Canada and in the United States. The virgin soil gives abundant result, no attention is paid to rotation of crops or manuring ; in the course of years the soil becomes quite impoverished, inferior wheat is raised, and that falls a prey to the weevil and the grasshopper. Farmers, instead of remedying this evil by cultivation, having got what they could out of the soil, leave their settlements, and go further west to a yet unploughed country. This is one of the chief reasons why the West has been so much opened up, and why such states as Kansas and Oregon have been of late years admitted into the Union. In these states are many settlers from New England and other Eastern States. When, however, the Pacific is reached, and the population is so increased in the West that all the territories have become states, an end must come to this, and both American and Canadian farmers will have to pay that attention to scientific culture of the soil, which has been found to be so profitable in England. Most of the untilled land is either prairie or forest. In the former case, the settler sets fire to the grass and soon RKSOLUCF.S OF CANADA. 1 0:j jiiakrs a clcaranci'; in tlic latter, he lias to wait soinr time bei'orc he can bring his plougli into use, for not only must the trees be cut down, but the stumps and roots removed. Even in twenty acres of land there arc; thousands of trees, which it takes years to remove. The timber, of course, repays cutting down, but if the settler is very poor, how is he to find in remote districts means of trans- port, when there may, perl ^,ps, be between him and a market, miles of forest wliicli the regular lumberers would take ill hand first ? Under these circumstances, it is not at all unusual to girdle the trees, that is, to cut away a ring of bark near the ground. The tree then gradually decays, and its removal becom(?s easy as compared with the labour of the hatchet. The stumps are always some of the settler's greatest enemies, and various "stump extracters" have been invented and patented by ingenious Yankee con- trivers. There is in Canada a Minister of Agriculture, who appears to be quite alive to the importance of encouraging colonists to develope the produce of the fields. It is well if his eftbrts, aided by many intelligent men who take an interest in the colony, succeed in drawing to Canada many who make a precarious Hving in Europe. A hundred acres of land on certain conditions are offered to anybody. Little capital, little knowledge, are wanted, but hard work and wilhng hands ; and poverty may henceforth be laughed at. Lumbering is chiefly carried on on the Ottawa and its tributaries. From Montreal to Georgian Bay, Lake Huron, there is an almost uninterrupted water communication by the Ottawa and a series of small lakes. This gives wonder- ful facilities for the carriage of the lumber. The trade in 104 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. ' *■ this part of Caiiiidii aloiio, is supposed to employ upwards of iDjOOO men, and over a ([uartcr of a million of capital. AVlicn the forest trees are cut down, they are shaped square, and brought to the water, and now commence the perils and town, streets are laid out and houses run up in close proximity, and seve- ral storeys high, as if the land were already of immense value. In Canada, on the contrary, towns look more as if thcv had grown, not sprung up like mushrooms, so that Ottawa's 12,000 inhabitants probably occupy as many acres as double or treble the number would in the States. Its situation is beautiful : it is " a ci^y set on a hill," the river, foaming, widening, narrowing, winding, deepening, far below. ^There is a road down the cliff to the river, over which is a chain bridge. Just above the bridge"* are the Chaudiere Falls, all their romance and natural loveliness taken away by the proxi- mity of horrid mills, the proprietors of which could not lose this opportunity of turning the water power to account. The scene from Barrack Hill, in the centre of the town, is most charming, especially when a sunset is one of its fea- tures. Painters give us on canvass beautiful representations of sunset and sunrise ; but if they wish to give fresh colour to their brush and fresh glow to their imagination, let them take a trip across the Atlantic, and they will see glories which in England are not approached. All inhabited Canada is several degrees south of London, which, of course, gives it its advantage in respect to its beautiful risings and set- tings of the sun. In Canada, as has been said, there is no coal. None has been found, and geologists say it cannot be. This is put- ting science to some use. In 1858 it was stated hi the 100 I'lIK IMTHI) STATKS AND CANADA. ii(;\\s|);i|)(rs tliiit coiil had lu'cii found at Houniiinvillc, a small town about forty inil(!s cast of Toronto. Maiiv be- licvcd it, and said t;('olo;^ists were; fools. TIk; value of land went up near and in the town, aiul for some weeks the thing went on, when it turned out that some rascal had committed ii hoax in order to get a tictitious price for his property. To tlu! credit of the ('anadians be it said, that most of them phiced faith in the dictum of men of science. On the shores of Lake Superior and in Lower Canada valuable mines of coj)per have been discovenid. Li Lower Canada also, goUl has been found, but not in sufficient quantities to make it remunerative to work it. Iron alxmnds in the neighbourhood of Three Rivers, a town on the St. Lawrence, about half way between Montreal and Quebec, and gives employment to a large population. Limestone is found almost (!verywhere, and is devoted to the most varied purposes. Lately oil springs have been discovcnul in the western part of Upper Canada, and we hear of much capital and labour finding in them an invest- ment. This oil is pure and clear. It gives a bright light, and does not stain one's clothes. It is also said to be the best for lubricating machinery. It is, of course, very cheap, us all one has to do is to dig a well, and an abundant supply results. Much, indeed, has been wasted, from the wells overilowi ng, and there being nothing handy to receive it. Canada exports a certain number of furs, but as most of the uncolonized portion of the British possessions on the continent belong to the Hudson's Bay Company, but a small share of the profits arising from the peltry trade fall to Canada. The Hudson's Bay Company is despotic over that portion of America in which it has rights, aud it exer- UIISOI'UCKS OP CANADA. in: ciscs this power t(» the (liscoiiriiLrciiiciil hv iill iiic.iiis |)()y do not know what stiffness and reserve are, and in conversation do their best to make tliein- selves pleasant. They are, in good society, well informed, have a fair stock of wit, and are good at repartee. Certainly they ought to smile, for they have pretty much their own way, and are the objects of men^s adoration. In no country, perhaps, is greater attention paid to ladies than in the United States. This attention comprises all the outward politeness of the frenchman and the real homage of the Englishman, modified, of course, by national customs and traits of character. But this feature is an honour to America ; it pervades all classes of men, and this attention is extended not only to the lady, but to the weaker sex generally, always excepting the "coloured person,^' who is looked upon as something inferior. On the railways there are ladies' cars, on the steamboats ladies' saloons, in the hotels ladies' drawing-rooms. Ladies can and do, with safety and pleasure, travel alone in any part of the Union, and an insult offered to one would be resented in a way unpleasant to the perpetrator by any one who might be a witness. Any one travelling in America would be far better off with a lady, for he ^vill share in the attention paid to her. He will have the entree of the ladies' saloons, from which single men are rigidly excluded, and should he arrive late at night at a crowded hotel he will readily get a room, and not be, with scant civility, told to take his chance. If he wish to dine at any hour not at the regular time, per- mission will be readily accorded, whereas, as a single man, he would be told he must either conform to the hotel regu- lations as to meals, or go without. This politeness to ladies is frequently pushed to excess, and spoils them, and some DOMESTIC LIFE IN THE STATES. 123 ladies will receive from a gentleman, tliough he may be quite a stranger to them, such attention as must ])ut him to serious inconvenience. Now, what we value in England in ladies is their remarkable unselfishness, their regard for the feelings of others, and one must admire the sensitiveness they show of allowing a gentleman to put himself to ex- pense or serious trouble on their account. It is doubtful whether American ladies understand much of this true re- finement, this delicacy of feehng. "With regard to courtship and marriage, the traveller cannot be expected to know much. Americans differ as much as Enghshmen and Scotchmen, Welshmen and Irish- men, and in various parts of the Union different customs prevail. The different States have not even the same laws, and a legal marriage in Massachusetts may not be so in Kentucky, all sorts of views being held as to marriages void and voidable. The state of the law of divorce is most lax. In one State the marriage bond cannot be severed, in another the law is similar to ours, in another " incom- patibility of temper" is deemed a sufficient reason for putting asunder those whom God has joined. We hear a good deal now of States^ Rights, but it would certainly seem that the laws relating to marriage should be considered and enacted by Federal and not by State authority. Sir Cresswell Cresswell rightly laid down the law, that a marriage void in England could not, because it had been contracted in a country where it was legal, he recognized in this country as such. In America it is no uncommon thing for a couple, tired of one another, but who cannot get a divorce in the State in which they live, to go into another for the purpose, and return home unfettered. lU THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. Marriages may be solemnized both in the United States and in Canada at all hours, so that our institution of break- fast, &c., is by no means generally followed. The writer was witness of a wedding in Canada at three o'clock, after which the happy couple at once started off for the Falls of Niagara. He also went to a wedding party at Eiclimond, in Virginia. In this case the ceremony was performed in the house of the bride's father, by a clergyman of the Episcopal Church, at half-past eight p.m. A large number of friends were present, and for three hours the w;»happy couple had to endure the stare and congratulations of the numerous guests. Such is the Virginia fashion, by no means a pleasant one for the parties principally concerned. It is not customary on these occasions to dance, out of respect to the cleigyjau,a who is present, but the interesting event affords ample topic for conversation. In the course of the e\ ening the wedding- cake is cut up and handed round among the young ladies. In it are a wedding-ring and a silver five-cent piece ; the young lady who gets the wedding-ring will be the next married, she to whose lot falls the coin wiU be an old maid. Very gratifying to an Englishman is the esteem in which Americans hold our Queen. It is not too much to say that she is loved in the United States as much as in Great Britain. She is looked upon as the Queen of the Anglo- Saxon race, as the chief magistrate of the first-born of those countries in which the English tongue is spoken, and many Americans speak of her as their Queen. To this veneration in which Her Majesty is held is due much of the popularity of the Prince of Wales, and much of the cordial reception which he received in the United States. When one of th DOMESTIC LIFE IN TUE STATES. 125 authors of this vohime spent an evening at a young ladies' school in New York, they paid him, his country, and his Queen, the compliment to sing our national anthem, and that with as much energy and devotion as any subject of Queen Victoria. Al I CHAPTER XVII. RELIGION. Se\T5Ual books have recently appeared on the aspects of religion in the United States, all, showing in more or less degret f^ ^^ bias of the writer. It is more than probable that in tj. ;w remarks made on the subject in this chapter the bias of the writer will also appear. He does not apolo- gize for it, and does not intend to attempt to avoid it ; he does not mean to be impartial, and it will doubtless be plainly seen what his views are, and how he thinks that the spread and enlargement of his Saviour^s kingdom is hindered or otherwise by the laws, customs, and histitutions of the United States and of Canada. What can be more important than for a person to have clear views as to his future state, as to his condition after death? And as a mistake may be fatal, should he not hold his views with tenacity ? Should he not, if he believe that God has taught him the way of salvation, take an active part in making this way known to those who, if they know it not, must perish, and regard with interest, with favour or with disfavour, the state of Clirist'a Catholic Church in all lands. The writer believes that " the blood of Jesus Christ, God's Son, cleanscth from all sin ;" that " he that believeth on him is not condemned, but he that believeth not is condemned already ;" that " Christ is head over all tilings to the church ;*' that He is the only RELIGION. 127 lawful authority in spiritual matters, and tliat lie can and dot's take, caro of His kingdom without tlic intervention of any human ])ower whatsoever. So much to show that this chapter will give expression to certain opinions, and the writer wishes them to have all the weight w hich an express avowal can give tliem. Neither in Canada nor in the United States is there a State Church; Cliristians, real or so-called, by whatever name they are known, to wliatever denomination they belong, are treated on an absolute equality. It was not always so, and many have been the bitter feuds and even -persecutions arising therefrom. The Puritan Fathers who left England for conscience sake were not slow to enforce outward con- formity to their rciligious opinions by fine, im})risonment, and the stake. The lloman Catholics in Maryland set a noble example of tolerance. This State was colonized in 163i, by a brother of Lord Baltimore, a Romanist, and in 1639 an act was passed tolerating all creeds and sects. Now, throughout the Union toleration is a banished word ; where the law knows no difference between the various sects, nobody understands the meaning of the word toleration as appHed to religious denominations. While there is no favoured sect, and none of the State*s money is given to any Church, both Federal and State Governments recognize religion by appointing chaplains to the Houses of Legislature, to the prisons, to regiments, and to shi])s of war, making selections from four or five of those creeds w hich have most followers. This principle of selection is recognized by the Enghsh Government also, which appoints to some of Her Majesty's regiments lloman Catholic or Presbyterian chap- lains. Tliis cannot be complained of, for, however sure we I 128 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. • I >' may be of our views being right, we ought not, directly or indirectly, to tax others for the dissemination or upholding of the doctrines we hold, and this would be done were chaplains to be taken exclusively from one sect. In the United States the Methodists, Baptists, English Episcopalians, and Presbyterians, are about equally strong in numbers. The Roman Catholic Church also numbers many adherents, principally Irish and Germans. It has lost many of its followers, who, on leaving their Euroj)ean home and thei influence of the priests, have shaken off their shackles, and from indifferent Papists have become indilfcrent Pro- testants. This is the cause of great lamentation at Rome, and much money has been spent and many efforts made to retain the " faithful" in the " bosom of the Church." The Episcopal Church differs little, excej)t in the matter of connection with the State, from that of England. The Union is divided into bishoprics, the bishops being elected by diocesan synods, composed of chjrgymen and laymen. The bishops have considerable spiritual power, having the almost uncontrolled appointment of all ministers of their Church, while the lay members have means of making their wishes known and acted upon. "With a few slight altera- tions, such as most English Churchmen would approve of, the Liturgy remains unaltered, and the stranger would find in the service scarcely any perceptible difference. There is in America a Tractarian party, who consider themselves quite the elite. They have newspapers to represent thei^' opinions, and among many ladies who have little to do it is considered the thing to take an interest in all that eccle- siastical millinery and mouth-worship to which there are so many adherents in England. This sort of thing cannot go RELIGION. 1:21) far, for wlierc tlic ministers of rcliirioii are res])onsil)lo incn, and are not put in jjosscssion of livings by ))atr )ns, they cannot go very oj)posite to the tastes and belief of their hearers. The Methodists are a verv influential body, ineludini; several sects, some of which are widely opposed in doctrine and practice. There are the Episcopal Methodists, com- prising some of the wealthiest members of the community. The Presbyterians are, perhaps, the most numerous of any. These, again, are much divided, and some would probably regard others as scarcely orthodox.- Those who know how in Great Britain many Presbyterian churches have been tainted with Sochiianism, can undcrst.'tnd this. The Baptists are by no means the small minority they are in this country. They are better organized, and have more influence. Most negroes are Baptists, the rite of ad- mission into the Church by immersion in water being one peculiarly adapted to their imaginative temperament, wliich sees much in symbols, that is to say, symbols which express a reahty, and are not the unmeaning offspring of mediteval superstition. Negroes are very religious. ]\lastcrs do not interfere with them in this matter, but rather encourage them, as they find it pays. It gives the poor slave some- thing to think about, it takes his mind off his present con- dition, and tends to render him less discontented. Many negroes undoubtedly find real consolation in religion. 80 at least one is inclined to believe from what one sees and hears, and from one's knowledge, that God tempers the wind to the shorn lamb. In all cities there arc churches for the exclusive use of the black population, for there are few — alas ! that it should be said — white Christians in the 1.-30 TIIK I NITED STATKS AND CANADA. >' L'liitcd States who would tolerate on an equality the presence of coloured persons in tlieir places of worship. In the North the preachers are black, and are generally men of elocjuence, sometimes of ability, but in the South a white minister must address the flock, and any allusion to the " peculiar institution" is strictly forbidden. Negroes sing very lustily, and have good voices. No one can say that, outwardly, religion has sufl'ered in the United States through not being supported (?) by Government. Millions of dollars are annually raised by voluntary contributions for the building of churches, the salaries of ministers, and the sending of missionaries to the heathen. New York is thronged with handsome churches, and without having the statistics one would say that the church accommodation of the Union by far exceeds that of England, and especially in the large towns, where we so lamentably fail. Every village in America has its tliree or four places of worship, containing room, probably, for all the population wjio could go to church. All people take a pride in supporting their church, and the money is easily raised. When it is wanted to build a new place of worship, a plan sometimes adopted is for a few gentlemen to guarantee the cost, build the church, and then assess the seats at a valuation sufficient to cover the outlay. A free- hold right is thus acquired in the seats by the parties holding them. A further sum is then charged per annum for the current expenses of the church. This plan is not recom- mended, but it has the merit of being business-like, of answering its purpose, and of distributing the burden which too often in England is borne by a few zealous and self- denying members of a congregation. When the church is IIKUOION. VM ready for use and the pews for assignineiit, a mortincr islicld, and an auctioneer puts the pews up, tlie assessed ])rice having to be paid in all cases, the extra sum heinii^ simply for a right of selection. This manner of opening a cluirrh is very grating to one who thinks of tlie sacred ])nrpose to which the edifice is to be devoted. The sliarp tones of the auctioneer's voice and the thumj) of his liannner, with the hum of the attendant congregation, jar painfully on tiie ears of one who, as a devout listener, has been accustomed only to the earnest and solemn voice of the minister, the pleading utterance in prayer of some ou(^ of (jod's children, or the united authem of praise from the whole assembly. Another proof of the vitality of religion in the United States is the amount of money raised for foreign and domestic missions. Yew missionaries have been more devoted and have been more blessed in their labours than some of those that America has sent forth to ])reach the Gospel. The name of Judson will ever be associated witli Burraah, and the labours and disinterestedness of the missionaries of Turkey and Lesser Asia have bcM'n owned by God in the bringing in the way of truth many who have been Cliristians m name, but who have been destitute of the Word of God, and whose religion has been a matter of tradition, pride, and strife for supremacy. The fratricidal war now raging in the United States has sadly caused the diminution of the incomes of the missionary societies, and it is to be feared that those men of God who have been long sowing and are now reaping will be with- drawn from this interesting Gospel field in the East unless English Christians, considering as bretlircn all who own 1:52 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. » ' the luimo of Christ, come to the rescue with large-hearted contributions. The unlmj)j)y f(ucstion of slavery has often been a fruitful source of discord among Christians in the United States, and has been the cause of disruption in denominations, of break- ing up of societies, and of disunion in individual churches. In the North there has been too much truckling to this great abomination, and the outspoken men who have unhesitat- ingly condemned the keeping in bondage of their fellow- creatures, and have wished to preach against it as a sin, and to refuse communion to those who ])ersist in it, have been kept under by a time-serving majority. Thus the mission- aries to the semi-civilized Choctaws have connived at slavery, and have allowed the Indian to hold in servitude the negro without protest ; thus the committee of the Tract Society have rigorously refused their imprint to tracts even alluding to the vexed question. All this has caused much bitterness, for many men, looking upon slavery as a sin, the persistence in which is inconsistent with the Christian profession, refuse to leave the question alone, and avow their determination, by God's help, to make an active protest against the iniquity. The result has been dismemberment of denomhiations and the alienation from one another of those who on all other ])oints are agreed. It may certainly be said that slavery is a national sin. Not one per cent, of the Christian minis- ters in the United States ever preaches against it, and not one per cent, of the hearers would tolerate their doing so. Abo- litionists are but a feeble minority, and these are divided, one section being professed infidels or Unitarians, the other some of the most evangelical and soul-seeking men in the Union. The leaders of the former are such men as Garri- RELIGION. \m son and Wendell Philli])s, anioni^ the latter are Cheever and Ward Heeelier. With those, Kiif^lish ('hristians can have no sympathy ; with these, it should he at once our duty and pleasure to co-o|)erate. The former are actuat«'d hy seliish motives, and find their weapons in hlasphemy and sedition ; the latter helievi; that God has made of one blood all the nations on the earth, and mourn over as a sin the keeping of their fellow-creatures in bondage. Let us wish Clod speed to these, confusion to those ! Unitarianism ])re vails largely in New England. Here are found some of the most intellectual and refined of America's sons, and, as elsewhere, many of them tind the preaching of Christ crucified extremely distasteful. In many churches fearful error is preached ; in Harvard College Unitarian doctrine is taught, and finds warm supporters in such men as Longiellow, Dana, Holmes, and Emerson. In Boston many have been led astray by this specious heresy, chiefly under the teaching of the late Theodore Parker, who was at the same time one af the most eloquent preachers of aboUtion and natural theology. Almost, if not entirely, peculiar to America are the camp-meetings, which take place cliiefly in the South. A good deal will be found about them in a book recently published, called ' Peter Cartwright, the Backwoods Preacher/ For perhaps an entire week people will assem- ble in the forest for religious meetings, coming, many of them, long distances, and sleeping the while in tents. There is little in these meetings to please those fastidious about order and forms, and probably many w^ould go so far as to say they are the devil's work; but to them who be- lieve that " God dwelleth not in temples made with hands," \u TIIK UNITKl) STATICS AND CANADA. '»' inul fares nothing for cxteniiils, ])iit scardics tlic licart, it is plain that where (jlod's peoph; meet in dependence on tlie Holy Spirit a bh'ssiiit,' will lollow. And that is all we earc about ; if souls an; converted, wliat does it matter what the agency is? The negroes, particularly, lik(; these eamp- mcetings, as ])eing something cs])eeially suited to their sim- ph' understandings, and many a good anecdote will be found relating to them in such books as that referred to above. It must be understood that the remarks made in this chapter must be taken with some qualification in reference to various parts of the Union, for as the early colonists widely differed in their religious habits, so do their descend- ants. It must be expected that the Puritan settlers of New England, the cavaliers of Virginia, and the omnium gather nm of the West, would give for centuries a mould to thf 'gion and characteristics of their descendants. Thus x uritan strictness, sobriety, and Sabbath-keeping mark New Eng- land still in an eminent degree, while New Orleans is noted for rowdyism. In New England Congregationahsm is the chief form of religious worship and government, w bile in Virginia, Georgia, and the Carolinas, an attachment to Epis- copalianism still prevails. An excellent little work appeared two years ago by the author of ' The Englishwoman in America,' entitled ' The Aspects of Rehgion in the United States of America.' From it a few of the foregoing remarks are drawn, and to it the reader is referred for more ample information. The work is written in a Christian, impartial spirit, and gives one a fair idea of what its title professes. The author draw's in- ferences favourable to the voluntary principle, giving testi- mony to the soundness of. the preaching, the liberality of i!i;F,i(ii()\, 1 IV. the clmrclu;-, and the widc-sprciul iiilliicnci' of Ciospcl religion. A few words now respect ingCannda: Canada is bv no means so settled in reli'n'ous matters as the United States. rj)per Canada is scarcely forty years old, while the States have been colonized two centuries, and have been indepench-nt eighty years. Moreover, Canada has but recently emerged from a severe struggle on the State Church (piestion, and this has inflicted sad ravages on th(! interests of true religion. Men's passions wutc inflamed, angry warfare usurped the place of ('hristian zeal, and where the (.'hurch's energies should have been directed solely against the strongholds of Satan, they Nvcre too nuich em- ployed as weapons in destroying her own fair j)ro})ortions. The struggle was fierce, but resulted at length in the separation of Church and State, and the recognition and couiplete equality of all sects. The final settlement is too recent for one to be able to say with contidence, from observation, how it works, but there is no reason to fear that the gain to religion will be less than in the United States. At present it would appear that the ])olitical strife; so long carried on has affected the spirituality of the churches, and probably some time will elapse before they exhibit that life which they surely would but for the deadening influence of party and sectarian animosity, the chief cause of which is now happily at an end. About one half the population belong to the Church of Rome, one eighth to the Englisli Church, oiu; eighth to the Church of Scotland or other Presbyterian denominations, one eighth to the various ]\Iethodist bodies; of the remainder, Baptists and Congregationalists are the most namerous, and 136 THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA. I ' Lutherans, Quakers, and half a score of others make up the total. Nearly all the Lower Canadians are Romanists: con- sequently Lower Canada docs with about one third the number of churches required in Upper Canada, for where in every little village in the latter there will be three or four places of worship for the different denominations, in the former the whole church-going population of a parish will assemble in one commodious edifice. Distance from Rome does not iq)pear to diminish the affection of her followers. The Romish Church in Canada is very wealthy, and doubt- less furnishes not a small sum to the Propaganda. There are several convents in the country, one of which, at Quebec^ is more than a century old. The English Episcopal Church, generally known as the Church of England, resembles that of the United States in its self-government, and it appears that its bishops give equal satisfaction with those who are appointed by a conge (P elite. It is quite the fashionable Church in the upper province, and will always enjoy a certain prestige as long as Canada is subject to the British crown, the religion of the Governor-General and of all imperial officials being, as a rule, that of the country from which they come, and having some, may be slight, influence on the colonists. The number of Scotchmen who have emigrated to Canada have caused the numerical strength of Presbyterianism, while the proximity of the United States has, perhaps, had some- thing to do with the growth of Methodism in the colony. Though this chapter is headed " Religion," it may not be deemed amiss if a few words are given to the subject of Education. On both sides of the St. Lawrence the general education ' RELIGION. 187 of the people is provided for witli great liberality. With almost universal suffrage, education is the only safeguard against anarchy, and in both the United States and Canada the full importance of this is seen, and the government and the municipalities do their duty in the matter. Religion, but not sectarianism, is recognized in the sdiools. \he system has answered admirably, and tlie result is the general intelligence of the people throughout the Union and Canada. 10