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[It is scarcely necessary to preface the following jourual of an excursion through a country hitherto uiikuown to the Naturalist with any ob- servation, further than to say, that it embraces the period of time v.lien Mr. Drummond quitted Sir John Franklin, Dr. Richardson, and the other officers of the Expedition, at Cumberland House, to tliat of his rejoining them at the same place. — Eu.] Cumberland House, of which the latitude is 53*^ 56' 40" N., longitude 102" 10' 41" W., is situated upon a small island, called Pine Island, formed by the branching of the Saskatch- awan, .vhich divides into two chaiuiels, just before its junction with a lake, called Ph)e Island Lake. In times of high water, occasioned by the melting of the snow upon the mountains where it takes its rise, the river runs into the lake by the upper channel, and empties itself by the lower. During the time which elapsed between my arrival at Cum- berland House, on the 28th of June, and the 10th of August, when the waters began to fall, the lake had risen six feet perpendicular, reducing the island, which is naturally low, to a very small compass, and destroying the corn which grew immediately around the fort. This was a very untisual cir- cumstance, and I found, when afterwards ascending the Sas- katchawan, that the waters had attained to upwards of twenty feet above their winter level. The country in the neighbour- hood of Cumberland House is limestone, similar to that de- scribed by Ur. Richardson in the vicinity of Lake Winnipeg. The following list comprises some of the plants which I collected during niy slay at Cumberland House, but it cannot be considered as a full eniuneration, since many of the spring flowers were past, and a still greater luimber must have escaped my memory:— Hippuri.s vutgnris, Utriculnria vul- gnrisimd media, vlronka peregrhm and .srutellata, a species of Lycopus ? 2 species of Scirpus, a species of Erioplmum, 179 'g ve \ Alopecurus nristulatu.% Phhum pratenst, Ahpecnrtix sp., a ]\}(i rest'iiibling P. distans and J*, miniifi, Loliuii pcrenne, iiitroducud ? Jiromiis sp.? Tritiann sp., Elijiniis mollis aiul another species, Ilordeuin jiibatum, Arinuh coluratn, A. pliragmitcH, A. caiindensin^ &c. with many other Gmminece. Gnliiim septei(friunale, and 2 other species, Potaiiiogcton prr- tiiiatmii, J*, /i/cetis, P. Jiuitans, and 2 others. Puliuomtria pniiivulat ', Mi/osotis Lappnla, and another species, Lifsimac/tia thi/rsfjtoni antl Ij. ciliata, Apocipmm nndroscemiJhliKm and //. cannahiunm, C'ampamda rotundijhlia, lAmUirdfidvn ? Diirriila Cf/'i'idea, Siitnphoria ract "isn, and another species or variety, riuid, dibilis and /'. cannmnsis, Sivertia dijfhnnis? a Gtutidna, with the habit of G. Cimipestris, 4 or .j species ot" Clunopo- dium, Pnstinaca mtiva, perliaps naturalized, and several other UmheUifertr, ot" one of winch the Indians eat the roots. J'i- burnion ednle and V. oi/cnccus, ParnassHt palitstris, IJrosera rotundij'ulia, LiiOKta Itorealis, Cornus alba, and C. canadensis, a species of Allium, Couvallaria bifolia. Acorns Calamus, Jun- cus hufonius, and ,/. gracdis, &c., several species of Itumcx, Alisnia Plantago, Vaccinium Vitis hUm, and /'. Oyroccos, Polygonum aniptiihium, P. Persicaria, P. Cunvolrnlus and P. aviculare, Monotropa unijtora, Pip'ola sccnnda, P. dliptica, with the flowers, pure, white, and very fragrant, P. chloranthn and P. rotundifolia, tlie latter differing from the British species in having rose-coloured blossoms, Andromeda polijolia, Arbutus Urn ursi, Saxifraga. tricuspidnta, Mitella nuda, Stellaria lateriflora, &c. Aronia. oralis, a species of Prunus, resembling J\ Cerasus, S/tirrea salirifolia, 3 varieties of Rose, a Jtubus, resembling P. Idteus, P. triflorus, Clianuemorus, and R, pistillaris, Pragaria. canadensis and P. J'esca, Potentilla norvegicai' also a species with (juinate and anot'i r with pinnate leaves, Potentdla. auserina, Geum strictum, Comai im palustre, Aeteea anicrirana, a Xupliar similar to i\'. lui >i, Aquilegia eantalensis, Anemone dieliototna and A. multifida. Ranunculus Purskii, R. JIuriatilis, j.'. sceleratus, and several other species, Mentha canadensis, Scutellaria gulericulata, Dracoceplialum virgiuicum and JJ. parriflorum, a species of Melampyrmn, Lepidium rirginicum, Erysimum cheiranthoides? 180 Sisifiuhriiim cahescciis and S. hrnclnicarpvui. Geranium caro- linidiium, Fumarin morn, Laf/ii/rus pn/itsfriti and another species, riria ((Difif/cHsis and I', pisi/'oniiis, an Astragalus, leseinbliiig ,/. yfiicjuthyllos, Hivravim» sahamliini, Sonrlms uleracciiH and 2 oilier species, a species of Cninis, of which I obtained no specimens, the inundation having destroyed them all jjefore their time of flowering. J'crhvsina filata 9 with lai-ge yellow blossoms, a species of Sniccio and another oi" Bah IIS, Leouhxhn pafitstrc, Giiaphnlimn like G. f/ioinnn, Artemisia biennis, several kinds of Erigeron, Sulidago mullira- diata and several others, many species of Aster, a Tiissilago, Achillea Millefoliiini and another species, Piirsh considers the A. Millefolium to be a naturalized plant, but this is cer- tainly not the case, for it is frequently found near the sum- mits of the Rocky Mountains. Of Orchis there are several kinds, Corallorhiza innata, Ci/pripeiliuni puhescens, Spar- f/aniitm ramosuin, and .V. simplex, Carex Pscudo-Cyjier^is, C. Jilifurmis, C. teretiusculn and several others. Typha latifolia, Urtica urens? Mijrinphiillum spicatnm, Ceratophyllum demer- sum, Sagitfarin sagittijhlia, Calla prdustris, Festuca JIuitans. Urularia puberula, a species of Impatiens ? Epilobinm angns- tifolinm and many others, a liibes like rubrum, another with black hispid fruit, 2 species with black smooth fruit, and one resembling the ijnoseberrif. Lcmiia minor, L. trisulca, L. tninor, and />. gibba, Fepiisetinn palustre, E. arvense, E. syl- vaticmn, and a species smaller tlian E. raricgatuni, S^r. The only moss that I added to my collection here was Bryum triquelrum, found abundantly in the swamps. The forowing trees grow in this neighbourhood: Finns alba, P. nigra, and P. microcarpa, Populiis trepida, and the rough-barked species, Popnlus balsamina, liefula papyracea and Ji. glanditlosa, the latter is small and confined to the swamps; with a few species of U'ilhirs, There is also a species of Fraxinus, sparingly met with on the banks of the river Saskatchawan, and a sjiecies of Elm. Tlus place may lie considered as the higliest northern limit of the genera i'lmus and Fraxinus. The birds which I observed here offer comparatively little worthy of remark. The Passenger Pigeon is very common, 181 building its nest in the willow bushes on the margins of the lake, and feeding principally at this season upon the berries of Cornus alba and C. canadensis, A species of Caprbnulrfus is also common here and throughout all the country from Canada to the Rocky Mountains. It is called Pn'squa by the natives, because its note consists of this word, which it repeats almost incessantly during the fine sunmier evenings, when it soars so high as to be almost imperceptible. In wintly weather it flies lower, in pursuit of its food, probably insects, and it may then be sometimes taken, though this is always diflicult, on account of the irregularity of its move- ments. It makes its nest, which much resembles that of the common lapivhuf, on the ground, and lays three or four eggs of a dirty brown, marked with darker coloured spots. I often met with it on the plains of the Saskatchawan, in the beginning of .July. The insects are not numerous : I observed Papilio Afafaiita, P. IJrticre, and P. Comma-aUmm, and P. Cardiii ; also a species nuich resembling J*. Cardaminis, but the sexes exactly similar, the male insect wanting the orange spot upon the wings; also another species, pure white, resembling P. Xapf, and a large purple one with a white border; a large yellow butterfly of the swallow-tail kind, with black clouds '*«d streaks; and a smaller yellow one, resembling J*, lihamni. In Culeoptera, the genera liujtrcstis anil Ceramhi/x are numerous on the picquets of the fort : but many of the most conunon British genera are almost wanting, such as Ciircidio, Scnrnbcens, and Staphylina. The Mosiptitoes are more plen- tiful here than I saw tl.'Mn anywhere else. The country round Cumberland House is very flat and marshy. The only rising ground of any considerable eleva- tion visible from it is the Basqua Hill, said to be about 40 or .50 miles distant. It was visited by the late Lieutenant Hood during the winter which that Expeilition passed at Cumberland House, and from the information which the Indians gave me of the numerous plants that grow there ex- clusively, I regretted very much that it was not in mv nowec to explore it. my power f 1H2 The company's boats liaviiilains. They are about as big as the British grous, of a much lighter colour, and having two of the tail feathers projecting about two inches beyond the rest, whence the name is derived. In habit, these birds resemble the conmion grous, they juake their nests on the ground, laying from live to ten or a dozen ejrtjs, which are like those of a partridge. They keep in families until winter, when they congregate in large coveys. At j)airing time, which is the month of May, the Pin-failed Grous select some little emin- ence, to which they resort at daybreak in great numbers, jumping, running round each other, chuckling, and perform- ing many curious mancruvres; and this they continue to do for several weeks, until the ground is worn (juite bare, when they separate in pairs for the season. Their flesh is well- flavoured, and the sportsman would find excellent amuse- ment in following them. Among the immerous species of J)uck that frequent the lakes of the plain, may be particularised the liuddy Duck, remarkab'e for the brilliant blue colour of the bill of the male, and the singular way in which, jvhen courting or r 18() caressing tl»c female, it carries its tail, which is perfectly upright, giving the bird, at a little distance, the appearance of having two heads. It seems to breed in the neighbour- hood of Carlton, as I killed a pair of them in the beginning of June, the female having eggs in her body ready for ex- clusion. Tiieir plumage is remarkably thick and glossy, as that of the Grebes, and, like these birds when pursued or frightened, the ducks dive, and show only their bills above water. The Bittern is fretjuently seen in the marshes about Carlton Houre; its habits are the same as those of the British species, and it possesses the same singular cry. The sound is very deceptive, frequently appearing as if quite near when really a mile distant. The Bitterns appear to have the power of inflating their necks and windpipes to a large si/e, and I feel no doubt that to this j)roperty alone they owe the extn. binary booming noise which they make. There is also a species of Curvirostra common in the lakes of the plains, near which they breed. On approaching their haunts, they fly io meet you, giving, at the same time, the note of alarm to the rest, who immediately join, as if to chase away the intruder, by wliich means they are easily shot. The American Curlew, and several other species of that genus, have the same habit, as well as the Laptving of our own country. A beautiful little bird, Phalaropits IVihoni, also inhabits those lakes. I procured several specimens about the middle '^f May, 1827. They swim with great ease, but generally frequent the shallow water. There is also another small bird that deserves to be noticed for the courage with which it attacks all others that venture near its residence; it is a species of Flycatcher, about the size of a lark, and it is truly amusing to see it assault the Falco borealis, or any other large bird. It soars above them, then darting down on the back of the opponent, applies its beak, with all the strength that it possesses, to its head, sometimes remaining in this position for a minute or more, and then it returns in triumph to its station, on the top of '* mB 1 187 is perfectly appearance iieifjlibour- be^iiining uly tor ex- 1 glossy, as iiiirsuecl or bills above hes about )se of the cry. The s if (juite appear to Ipipes to a erty alone liey make. 1 the lakes hing their time, the , as if to are easily species of npwing of > inhabits le middle generally »e noticed t venture bout the sault the •ve them, iplies its its head, or more, top of bome ncigliLouring bush or small tree, where it resuiiitiii the occupation of watching for flies. Many small birds are also seen here in their passage to nuirc northerly regions, such as the Emheriza nirdlis, E. /(i/)(>iii(ii, &c. The large snowy owl is also met with, and u small brown species, called by the natives the liinnr Owl; but why so designated, I could not leurn. I observed one of their nests near Carlton House, built on the ground among the bushes, containing two young ones, in the end of May. Several Eepithtptfra' occurred in these distiicts, which I tlid not meet with in any other situations; but as their names are unknown to iiie, I cannot particularize them. The tribe of Coleoptera is scarce, which may, in some measure, be owing to the grass of the prairies being fiHj: '^ntly set on fire. Amongst them I remarked a curioua ^pecies of ('ichuHa, almost white, with a slight shat!' of a darker colour on the margin of each elytra; it inhabits ^andy spots near the South Hranch River. The following Moisij, and V.i' V only, were seen in the vicinity of Carltttn House. Phnxnini ruspidntuin, var. 2; P. ?nittifuni, P. serration, P. suhexserfitm, and P. vrispum. Gyitniostomiaa tetragohum, G. Intifnliiim, G. uvatum, G. phascoides, antl G. subsessi/e, &c. I have already mentioned that there is little or no difference perceptible between the nature and productions of tlie country that lies between Carlton House and Edmonton. It is ilifficult to account for these plains being almost desti- tute of wood; but it may partly be owing to repeated con- flagrations, whicii liy waste the land to a great extent, no deep ravines, extensive swamps, or elevated ground inter- vening to check the progress of the flames. Thus much is certain, that the vicinity of Edmonton House, for many miles round, was, twenty or thirty years ago, covered witli trees, but by being frequently set on fire, it has become exactly similar to the rest. There are few, if any, rocks visible from the banks of the river, between Cumberland and Edmonton, so that I am unable to decide where the junction takes place between the sandstone and limestOi'.e districts ; probably it is where the . » 188 country begins to rise, before reaching the phice where the South Branch River meets the Saskatchawan. Sandstone appears to prevail around Edmonton ; it contains thin strata of coal, which is found to burn well, and is employed ui the forge for working the iron necessary in boat-building. The distance between tlie junction of the South Branch River with the Saskatchawan, and the Rocky Mountains House, may be estimated at from TOO to 800 miles. At Edmonton House, the brigade for the Columbia left the Sas- katchawan, making a portage of 100 miles to the Red-Deer River, which falls into the Athabasca Lake ; and as I still adhered to my resolution of accompanying it, I found it necessary to reduce my luggage into as small a compass as possible, and therefore left my specimens under the charge of the gentlemen at Edmonton House, only carrying with me a small stock of linen and a bale of paper. The second day, after leaving Edmonton House, brought us to the commencement of the woody country, whicli con- tinues all the way to the Rocky Mountains. The trees con- sist of Fujmbis halsamifera and P. trepida ; the Uliite Spruce Fir and the Birch, with Pinus Danksiana occasionally in the drier situations, and then, more rarely, the Baham Poplar. These are the only trees which occur north of this latitude, though in some localities, and in deep swamps, the Pinus niyra and P. inicrocarpa may occasionally be seen. Almost the only plants which we remarked as peculiar to this district, were a species of Ddphinium, allied to D. datum, and a curious aquatic, resembling in habit the Hydrocharis Morsus Itance, of which I gathered no specimens at the time, for it was out of flower, and I never saw it again. We crossed the Portage in six days, without meeting with any serious accident. The horse, however, which carried my bale of paper, unluckily fell down in crossing Pajjina River, by which the plants were thoroughly soaked ; and as the speed with which the brigade proceeded precluded all hope of getting them dried by the way, I found myself unwillingly compelled to carry them on in a damp state, until we reached Fort Assina- boyne, a small establishment belonging to the Company upon ■i it- place where the 'an. Sandstone itains thin strata employed in the biiildinff. ! South Branch cky Mountains 800 miles. At oia left the Sas- :J tlie Red-Deer ; and as [ still ? it, I found it 11 a compass as ider the charge ' carrying with louse, brought ry, which con- The trees con- e iniife Spruce sionally in the balsam Poplar. f' this latitude, ps, the Pinus een. Almost |o this district, hitum^ and a ■haris Morsus le time, for it peeting with h carried my apina River, I as the speed 16 of getting bompelled to fort Assina- ipany upon 189 Red-Deer River, where we spent two or three days preparing the canoes and cargo for our ascent of tiie river to the moun- tains. The Red-Deer River, on which this Fort is situated, is probably one of i\\v most southern streams which empties its waters into ♦he Frozen Ocean. The whole distance I'rom Fort Assinaboyne to the Rocky Mountains, following the general course of the liver, which runs in a nearly due west direction, may be estimated at about 200 miles. The country is thickly wooded with the same species of trees as were mentioned before; the Pinus Banhsiand and Populus bahaiiiijira, however, becoming much more frecjuenl. Jt was now ascertained that the canoes were so heavily laden, that it would be necessary for some of the party to go by land, and I gladly agreed to be one of these, in order to have the opportunity of seeing the country, and judging of its probable productions. We quitted the Fort accordingly, on the 1st or 2d of October, and started in high spirits for a journey on horseback, A heavy fall of snow, however, which took place on the 4th, put a final period to collecting for this season ; it also rendered our progress through these trackless woo.ls very unpleasant, our horses becoming soon jaded, when the only alternative was to walk, and drive them before us. To add to these misfortunes, the poor animals were continually sinking in the swamps, from which we found it no easy task to extricate them. The Red-Deer River is very rapid, so that its rise must be considerable, though not discernible when travellinij tliroujfh the woods which skirt it. The general appearance of the country is flat, intersected with lakes antl swamps, and occasionally broken undulat- ing ground. The weather during this part of our jour- ney, proved very unfavoin-able; snow and a thick fog prevented my making much observation on tlie vegetation, which, however, appeared to bear the same character until we approacheil the mountains. It also forbai. my getting any view whatever of the Rocky Mountains, until we actually rei.ched them. V/e arrived at Jasper's j^louse on the eleventli day, having travelled a distance of 200 miles since we cjuitted Assinaboyne Fort, under disadvantageous \ ' 'i \\ 190 tiicumbtances ; but all the party were in good health, and we were joined by the canoes on tlie day following. Jasper's Lake may be considered as the entrance to the Rocky Mountains. It is about 8 or 9 miles in lengtii, and 2 or 3 in breadth, being, in fact, merely an expansion of the Red-Deer River. The Hudson's Bay Company have built a hut here for the accommodation of the person who takes charge of their liorses, wliich are used for crossing the Portage to the Col- lunbia ; but the boats, after discharging part of their cargo at the head of the lake, proceed about 50 miles farther up the river, where the Portage commences, to the Upper House. The kindness of Lieut. Simpson, R. N., who was at this time employed in surveying the country, gave me the opportunity of ascertaining the latitude of the commence- ment and termination of the Rocky Mountains Portage. Jasper's House, or the beginning of the mountains, is in 53" 18' 40" north latitude, 117" 38' 36" west longitude. The commencement of the Portage 52" 43' 10" north, 117" 54' 46" west; the travelling distance he estimates at 54 miles. The latitude of the west end of the Portage, at the Columbia, is 52" T 10", longitude 1 18" 22' 30", and he calculates the travelling distance at 97 miles. The height of one of the mountains, taken from the com- mencement of the Portage, Lieut. Simpson reckons at 5,900 feet above its apparent base, and he thinks that the altitude of the Rocky Mountains may be stated at about 16,000 feet above the level of the sea. The first indication which the vegetation afforded of our approach to the mountains, was the Arbutus alpiiin and Dryas Drummondii ; the latter, with a beautiful yellow flower, was growing upon the gravelly battures formed by one of the mountain rivulets: Dryas temila was also there, and an Eriogonmn of considerable beauty. I also observed Splachntim augustatian and S. mnioides, growing commonly on the animal tracks in the woods, principally on the dung of the wolf or fox. I after- wards ascertained, though too late to profit by the informa- tion, that two of the largest and finest mosses that are known, the Splachmm rnbrmn and S, luteum, may be found in the I % iltli, and we sper's Lake Mountains, in breadth, )eer River, lere for the je of tlieir to the Col- their cargo farther up the Upper ., who was ave me tlie :ommence- s Portage. s, is in 53" ude. Tlie I, 1170 54' 54 miles. Columbia, culates the 1 the com- is at 5,900 he altitude 16,000 feet which the itains, was itter, with e gravelly s : Dryas nsiderable n and S. ks in the I after- informa- re known, ml in the 191 same vicinity. The Cefraria mrnfis anil C. cuculiata abound in tlie pine woods, and here I first observed the Piiiiis taxi- folia. That curious moss, the Gijmnosfomum pukinatum is met with on the rocks, and also Neckera Menziesii, nor. sp. ; the latter but rarely. At the head of Jasper's Lake, our tract led us over a rather lofty rock, where, besides the beautiful Erioffonnm and Dryas: tenella, 1 found a plant much reseml)liMg a Saxifraga, with roundish leaves and pale red flowers, and also several of tlie alpine species of Fotentilla. From this rock I obtained the first good view of the sur- rounding mountains, which gratified me extremely. The rocks are mountain limestone, and destitute of vegetation for about one-third of their height, but whether this is owhig to tlieir great elevation, or to a want of soil, I am unable to determine. The Red-Deer River at this place takes a bend to the south, which it continues for upwards of 70 miles, fbrmii'g a narrow valley of about a mile in breadth, with a fine mnge of mountains on each side, or they may rather be called groupes of mountains, as they are frequently inter- sected with deep narrow valleys, running in almost every direction. Their general height, skirting the river, may be com}nited at from 3 to 7,000 feet above it; there is generally a secondary kind of range at their bases, jjrobably formed by the gradual crumbling down of the more elevated parts ; and almost always clothed with vegetation to the very top, while two-thirds or more of the highest range consiits of notliins the winter. it with Gym- lot which the iboundin}; in bmiit woods od grass for heltered also ood Buffalo, urite resort. it the place, our hunter, the country, )ly, and was t seeing one to remain g myself a Spruce, and lug able to the winter, n quit this kinds only ^icus, Sfrt/x, s of Partis, I'stand how Id in these lit the 10th ;his time of moistening succeeding travellinff it became } the noise 195 made in walking', by tlie breakin^j of the crust. At this tune, January 10th, the snow was about two feet deep, and it gradually increased till the 27tli of JNIarch, its greatest avernge depth being from five to six feet. Our horses began to suffer considerably from the unusual severity of the winter : the hunters lost the whole of the young ones of the preceding year, and one which I had received from the Company died also. The animals of all kinils were becominir more and more scarce, so tliat my hunter resolved upon leaving this spot, and accordingly removed 80 or 100 miles farther down the river, but I preferred remaining where I was, though my situation became very lonely, being deprived of books or any source of amusement. When the weather permitted, I generally took a walk, to habituate myself to the use of snow shoes, but I added very little to my collections. The hunter returned about the beginning of March, bringing with him some venison, which jiroved a very acceptable supply, as the Partriihfes, Tetrao canadensis, and T. rupestris, the only game to be met with in my short rambles, were becoming difficult to be obtained. Nothing particular occurred until the 1st of April, when I determined upon going back to the Porta<>e, in hopes of receiving letters IVom Cai)tain Franklin oi- from home, as well as lor the purpose of procuring specimens of the waterfowl which might then be expected to return to the many lakes in the vicinity. I left Baj)tiste River, accordingly, accompanied by the Indian who took charge of my horses, and carrying with me the few specimens of plants and birds that I had been able to obtain. In six days we reached Jas- per's House, the distance in a direct line being from 150 to 200 miles, which was the greatest journey I had ever yet ))erformed in snow shoes. On the 9th I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. M'Millan, who brought me, from Edmonton House, my tent, another supply of paper, and a little tea and sugar, by which my situation was rendered comparatively comfortable. The winter, he assured me, had been remarkably severe, and vegetation was a lull nioiitli later than usual. The ducks and geese now began to return, so that my time was fully 196 1 t occupied till the 0th of May, wheu the brigade arrived, having crossed the Rocky Mountains from the Columbia River. They found me encamped near a small lake, about half-way between Jasper's House and the commencement of the Portage, living upon JVhite lush, which, though small, are of an excellent quality, and which I did not observe in any other lake among the Rocky Mountains. I agreed to accompany the brigade as far as Jasper's House, and ac- cordingly set out with them on horseback. Having crossed the Assinaboyne River, the party halted to breakfast, and 1 went on before them for a few niiles, to procure specimens of a Jintgennunnia, which I- had previously observed in a small rivulet on our track. On this occasion I had a narrow escape from the jaws of a grisly bear; for, while passing through a small open glade, intent upon discovering the moss of which I was in search, I was surprised by hearing a sudden rush and then a harsh growl, just behind me; and on looking round, I beheld a large bear approaching towards me, and two young ones making off' in a contrary direction as fast as possible. My astonishment was great, for I had not calculated upon seeing these animals so early in the season, and this was the first I had met with. She halted within two or throe yards of me, growling and rearing her- self on her hind feet, then suddenly wheeled about, and went oil' in the direction the young ones had taken, probably to ascertain whether they were safe. During this momentary absence, I drew from my gun the small shot with which I had been firing at ducks during the morning, and which, I was well aware, woulil avail me nothing against so large and powerful a creature, and replaced it with ball. The bear, meanwhile, had advanced and retreated two or three times, apparently more furious than ever; halting at each interval within a shorter and shorter distance of me, always raising herself on her hind legs, and growling a horrible defiance, and at length approaching to within the length of my gun from me. Now was my time to fire : but judge of my alarm and mortification, when I found that my gun would not go off! The morning had been wet, and the damp had rigade arrived, the Columbia lall lake, about nmenceinent of though small, not observe in i. I agreed to louse, and ac- iaving crossed reakfast, and I re specimens of •ved in a small had a narrow while passing iscovering the by hearing a liind me; and ching towards trary direction ^it, for I had ' early in the She halted 1 rearing her- out, and went , probably to s momentary tvith which I and which, I so large and The bear, three times, ach interval ivays raising i\e defiance, of my gun of my alarm would not damp had 197 communicated to the powder. My only resource was to plant myself lirm and stationary, in the hope of disabling the bear by a blow on her head with thf butt end of my gun, when she should throw herself on me to seize me. She had gone and returned ten or a dozen times, her rage apparently increasing with her additional confidence, and I momentarily expected to find myself in her gripe, when the dogs belong- ing to the brigade made their ai)pearance, but on beholding the bear they fied with all possible speed. The horsemen were just behind, but such was the surprise and alarm of the whole party, that though there were several hunters and at least half-a-dozen guns among them, the bear made her escape unhurt, passing one of the horsemen, (whose gun, like mine, missed fire,) and apparently intimidated by the number of the party. For the future, I took care to keep my gun in better order, but I tbund, by future experience, that the best mode of getting rid of the bears when attacked by them, was to rattle my vasculum, or specimen box, when they imme- diately decamp. This is the animal described by Lewis and Clark in their Travels on the Missouri, and so much dreaded by the Indians. My adventure with the bear did not, how- ever, prevent my accom|)lishing the collecting of the Juuger- mannia. It is No. 17 of the " American Mosses." On the 7th of May, I found the first plant in fiower, namely, the Anemone Nuttalliana; the A, horealis and Sctxi- fnuja oppositifolia soon followed, with Alijsswn arenosuni and A, a/ctk'uin, some species of Draha and Carex, &c. Among the mosses, I must not omit Neckera Mtnziesii, Didipnodon latifoUum, D. oblongijbliiun, and ll'cissia macro- cnrpa, (the two latter growing on slate,) Funnria Miihlen- bcrt/ii, Hi/puum Iln/leri, and, though very sparingly, Sphich- num rubrnm, and S. luteum. Immediately upon arriving at Jasper's House, I had despatched the Indian who took charge of my horses back to Baptiste River, there to take care of them until the season was sufficiently advanced to allow of their travelling. He arrived on the 17tli, bringing the animals and the paper, &c. which I had left there, anil charged also with the '* 198 :t » A unwelcome iiiteHigeiice, that tlie hunter with whom I lincl spent the winter, and whom I had engaged to accompany me to tlie llocky Mountains in the sunnner, liad, with that fickle- ness which is characteristic of most Indians, changed his mind, and refused to go to the mountains this season. This circumstance caused me much uneasiness, and I had no other remedy but to remain with the old Canadian who had charge of the Company's horses for the Portage ; and as he luid only stated places where his animals couki find pastur- age, I was much more confined in my range than I sliould otherwise have been. Although I might possibly iiave killed as much game as was necessary for my own use and tiiat ot the person who kept the horses, yet the time which this would have occupied would have left me but little leisure for any other employment. We remained in the vicinity of Jasper's House, until the 15th of June, making collections of all that the country afibrded. The species oi' Potent ilia and liannticHlus, which are numerous among the llocky Mountains, were now coming into flower. Arbutus alpinn, Dryas teneUa, &c. were also in bloom, and tlie beautiful Cnlijpao borcalis ornamented the pine woods. On leaving Jasjier's House, we skirted along the mountains to the north, halting occasionally for a day or two, until we reached tlie Lac-la-Pierre, a distance of per- haps GO miles in a straight line. This lake is surrounded by what I have called secondary rocks, covered with vegetation, which was advancing rapidly, so that I had my hands com- pletely full of employment, but I had now to encounter a formidable obstacle, and one of which I had formed very inadequate ideas, in the rise of the waters, caused by the melting of the snows. The smallest ravine, that had been dry for nine months of the year, becomes, under these cir- cumstances, an impassable torrent. The larger rivers are flooded in proportion. A I'all of the temperature certainly occasions a corresponding diminution of the waters, but these transitions are so sudden, that it is tlangerous to trust to them, as I experieiiceil more than once, when having suc- ceeded in crossing a stream in the morning, I found it so H)f) )ni I had spent )nipnny nic to itii that ficklc- changod his season. This Jiad no other ian who had ,'e ; and as he 1 find pastur- liini I should \y Imve killed e and that of e which this le leisure for ise, until the the country '«.*, which are now cominir were also in unented tlie kirted alon■ ill its charac- surniise I fouiiil s aflixed to tlie bout 15 or 20 gc, we left the owed a lesser )anks, and not il we reached a feight of Land. , and is called ;her extremity 'olumbia. On ight, pleasing r I had tasted fie Oceans, iitil within ten gradually di- high ground, ? Spruce and plants, as lar A Saiifraga cr resembling [>• shoots. .V. species with licr plant be- approacliing itichous, and 'ongy places, lutive creep- "f which I lb, with cor- J berries; a lie stem and flight home, I, &c. The a, Trk'hus- inii(jhiosu))i ; 'd a species 203 named by Dr. Hooker li. Schkicheri, which grows in the stream that fails into the Columbia, at its very cflux from the lake. When it is considered that we visited this place in the middle of October, and during a violent snow storm, which had already covered the ground to a depth of several inches, we may form some idea of what might be expected to be the productions of this country, lying at the very foot of the Rocky Mountains, during fine weather, and at an earlier season of tlie year, when so many peculiar plants were still observable, althougli I was obliged to keep up witii die brigade, and we proceeded as quickly as possible. At the time of my return, the snow was so deep as to preclude the possibility of finding any thing. The first glacier I saw, was about twenty miles belbre reaching the lake; but I visited a very large one at ten miles nearer to the lake. I found the trees, or rather bushes, of White Spruce and Balsmn Poplar, growing almost close to the ice. The only diing that repaid me fen- the trouble was a patch of Trichostomum lanuginosum, die only one I met with dining the journey. To the plants I have already named, may be added TinreUn trifoliuta, T. conlifolia, anil T. Menziesii, a species of Spircea, Faccinium hispi,Mi(m, GduUheria serpifUifolia, and another Faccinium allied to J^. Mt/rfi/lus : none oi these, however, were in flower. Amongst the Crtiptognmia, I also found here Adiantum pe- datum, and Aspidium Lonchitis; Polytrichum pa/lidisctum, var., Grimmia tortpiata, a nondescript Didymodon, and doubtless many more which have escaped my memory, and which, with those enumerated, were scarcely seen any where else. When the lake is passed, you descend rather gently for about ei' cones resemble those of the Spruce Fir, but are rather smaller. The seeds are furnished with remarkably long wings, which protrude half-an-inch beyonil every scale, giving the cones a very singular appearance. There is also in this vicinity a species of ItiihuK, resen)l)ling It. odoratus, but having white flowers, and a large and very insipid fruit; and the Aster I'xscapus, so called by Dr. Richardson, abounds here. It has a very singular habit, little like that of the genus Aster ; the flower buds are formed in Autumn, and bear an exact similarity to those of Glohularia vulgaris. I watched it long, with great interest, expecting it to produce something very handsome, but found the blossoms remarkably insignificant, the rays being small and nearly white. Erigeron conipositum is plentiful, and a very pretty little Astragafus, which I saw no where else : also Cryptogramma acrostirhoides, Pteris gra- cilis, and a species (?) of Xep/irodium, with the fronds whitish beneath. Having accomplished our preparations, I embarked my stock of specimens, and, with Mr. M'Donald and his family, began to descend the river. The winter had set in with all its rigour ; the cold became severe, the river had subsided greatly, and being choked with snow, and full of rapids and shallows, we found great difliculty in proceeding, being often obliged to quit the boat anil lift her over the stones. We, however, continued to drift along with the stream for a few days; but our boat was so large and heavy that she fre- quently struck against the shallows, and we were almost worn out witli fatigue, with our being continually obliged to jump into the half frozen water to endeavour to force her along. Mr. M Donald's legs w-ere much cut and bruised with the floatiig ice, and I, who kept on my stockings to avoid this misfortune, suffered on the other hand with frost, which rendered my wet clothes a most painful encumbrance. The ice and snow now became so intense and heavy, that though wo had calculated on reaching Fort Assinaboyne before the river became wholly impassable, we found our- selves unable to proceed, and stuck fast on the seventh day, when not more Uian halt-way on our voyage. As Mr. B^SBPWBS I 207 ither smaller, wings, whicli 'f the cones a :his vicinity a having white nd the Aster ids here. It genus Aster; car an exact tched it long, mething very insignificant, m coitipositnm which I saw s", Pteris gra- ronds whitish mbarked my lul his family, jet in with all had subsided pf rapids and being often tones. We, am for a few at she fre- were almost y obliged to to force her md bruised lockings to with frost, icunibrancc. heavy, that (\ssinaboyne found our- eventh day. As Mr. M'Donald's family were incapable of travelling, he agreed to encamp and remain with the luggage, while a clerk belonging to the Company and myself prosecuted our journey on foot to Fort Assinaboyne, whence we were to send horses to his assistance. We had calculated on reaching this place in three days, but it was the fifth evening before we arrived, having, however, met with no other hindrance than the unavoidable hardships of such a journey. On the way I re- marked the Scheuchzeria palustris growing in a small lake, its seed-vessels only appearing above the ice. I met with this plant in no other situation. We received much kind- ness, on our arrival, from Mr. Harriot, the gentleman who has tiie charge of the Fort, who also sent horses, as soon as they could be procured, to the relief of Mr. M'Donald, who had sullcMed great anxiety from the delay occasioned by our long journey, and whose provisions were nearly exhausted. He reached us, happily, about the 1st of December, bringing with him the whole of the luggage in good order. After resting here for a few days, we prosecuted our journey to Edmonton House, where we intended to winter, and got there about the middle of December, being most kindly welcomed by J. Rowand, Esq. Superintendant of the Fort. I immediately applied myself to the examination and arrange- ment of my specimens, which, it gave me much pleasure to find, were in excellent preservation, and as T now considered the most hazardous part of the expedition to be over, I spent the three succeeding months in comparative ease and com- fort. In the bcivinning of Februarv, I received the agreeable intelligence from Dr. Richardson of the complete success of his undertaking, and that he expected to be at Carlton House in February, where he desired me to join him as soon as convenient. Accordingly, I cjuitted Edmonton House in the middle of March, taking with nu; a single specimen of every plant gathered among the Rocky Mountains; also a train ol' dogs, and a half-bred and Indian guide. Ovying to some misunderstanding between the Hudson's Bay Company anil the Indians of the plains, it was considered unsafe to pursue the usual track between the Posts, which very much vol.. r. I' rri IV ■y i ^i 208 leiiylheiiccl our route anil caused us considerable inconveni- eiice. We proceeded for a few days along the river, and then struck into the wooded country north of the Saskatcha- wan, to avoid encountering the hostile tribes. We shortly began to feel symptoms of snow blindness, wliich consider- ably retarded our progress, and although we had a sufficient sup})ly of provisions for this journey in usual cases, we still found our stores considerably diminishing. The blindness became worse, and although we fired at several animals, we did not succeed in killing any. To add to our distresses, we now discovered that we had gone too far into the woods, by which the 'distance that we had to traverse was much in- creased. Our dogs became excessively fatigued, so that we were under the necessity of cutting up our sledge and carry- ing the luggage ourselves. The provisions were wholly spent, and I was compelled to destroy a fine specimen of the Jumping Deer, as I liave before mentioned, although it was the only one we had been able to procure, and I had carried it all the way from the Columbia River, where I had killed it. As I had not been very particular in divesting this skin of the flesh, it proved the more valuable on that account. Our ignorance of the actual distance which lay between us and the Fort, prevented the Indians from desponding, for we expected to reach it every succeeding night; but we grew weak with exhaustion, and proceeded, tlierefore, but the more and more slowly. Within about a day's journey of the Fort, the halt-bred Indian recognised the spot where we were, and we had the gootl fortune to kill a Skunk, an animal which I have omitted to mention in my former list, and which afforded us a comfortable meal. This creature, when hunted, discharges an intolerably fetid liquor upon its pursuers, and few dogs will afterwards attempt to destroy it. The one which we killed on the evening before we reachcil the Fort, proved tolerable eating, though it had a strong flavour of this obnoxious liquid. The distance being now so inconsiderable, I laid down my luggage, and we made oui way to the Fort as quickly as possible. You may judge of my happiness at being first met on my approach by Dr. 209 )le inconveni- :he river, and he Saskatcha- We shortly liich consider- lad a sufficient cases, we still The blindness al animals, we • distresses, we the woods, by was much in- led, so that we dge and carry- s were wholly pecimen of the although it was :l I had carried ire I had killed isting this skin n that account, lay between us lesponding, for night ; but we , tlierefore, but a day's journey [ the spot where till a Skunk, an my former list, This creature, liquor upon its ipt to destroy it. ifore we reachcil it had a stroiij.' ce being now so d we made our u may judge ot iproach by Dr. Richardson, who had been looking for us some time, and had become very uneasy at our delay. I immediately ex- perienced the hospitality of P. Prudens, Estj. Superintendant of the Fort, and I may safely say that I did justice to it; for after having more than once despatched all the victuals set before me, my voracity induced Dr. Richardson to inquire how long I had fasted, a question which 1 evaded for some time, under apprehension that he would use his authority to prevent the bad consequences which sometimes result from repletion after a long fast; however, I am happy to say that no uncomfortable ett'ects ensued, and after a night's rest, I was almost fit for another journey. It was on the 5th of April that I arrived, and immediately set about gathering specimens of the different birds and animals found in the neighbourhood of Carlton House. Having previously enumerated, so far ^la I could, the most remarkable plants, I shall now mention a few of the animals and birds that came under my observation. The one that claims the first attention is the Rocky MouMain Sheep, the animal called " Big Horn," by Lewis and Clark. In size it rather exceeds the largest English varieties of the common sheep. The ran)s are very remarkable for their immense and heavy horns, which turn round so as to form a volution and a half; and when this is the case, I have been assured that they often prove fatal to the animal, their points coming m contact with the ground, and preventing them from browsing. The female has small curved horns, like the commvin goat. Instead of wool, these sheep have hair like the moose deer. 'Ihey arc a timid inoffensive animal, herding In small flocks, and, on tlie approach of a dog, be- taking themselves to some rocky precipice, whither the enemy cannot follow them ; they then become an easy prey to the hunter, who may shoot them at his leisure. The female brings forth one and sometimes two young at a time, and hides them in some inaccessible place, where she visits them once or twice i;-day, to give them suck, till they are strong enough to sliift for themselves. They prefer the bare grassy mountains where there are steep rocks, to which they I' 2 // 'I If; '!i,ifi :(•( I ; 1 210 may retreat in case of alarm, in winter descending lower, but never quitting the mountains. There is a kind of earth met with among slate-rocks, of which these sheep are remarkably fond ; it is probably impregnated with salt, and by digging it out, they form caves of a considerable size. I have been repeatedly startled, when creeping along a narrow ledge of rock, to find a whole flock of them thus engaged; and as it sometimes happens that such spots are accessible only by one path, it is necessary to retreat as quickly as possible, or run the risk of being thrown down by them and dashed over the precipice. They appear to be tenacious of life, as they frequently make good their escape after being severely wounded. Their flesh is excellent, exactly resembling, both in appearance and flavour, the best English mutton. The fi'liite Sheep, which I mentioned before as having fruitlessly endeavoured to obtain, is another very interesting creature, and peculiar to the Rocky Mountains. It is said to resemble the common goat in every respect, except having a fine and beautiful wool intermixed among the hair, particularly along the back and buttocks. I have seen the skins of this animal, but was not so fortunate as to procure a good specimen. Although one of my main objects in going to the mountains nortli of the Smoking River, was to obtain the Jfliite Sheep, none were to be found, though at limes they frequent that neijilibourhood in considerable numbers. The bears next claim our notice : and first, the Grisly Bear. As I have already mentioned the only instance of my being attacked by thcni, I have only to add that they are a very formidable creature, from their great size and strength, being said to prove an overmatch for every other animal inhabiting these regions, not excepting the Buffliloe. They are abundant about the Rocky Mountains, differing much in colour, varying from a light grey to a dark chocolate hue; the last kind being said to be more ferocious than the others. They abound among the mountains north of the Smoking River. Except in the first instance, I always found the bears disposed to retreat as fast as possible, without offering the least affront; and as I was but indifferently armed, 211 g lower, but if earth met remarkably >y digging it [ have been •ow ledge of 1; and as it only by one lible, or run lied over the life, as they ng severely nbling, both utton. The g fruitlessly ig creature, to resemble f a fine and ularly along this animal, d specimen, e mountains Uliite Sheep, "requent that Grisly Bear. of my being y are a very ength. being \\ inhabiting They are ng much in ocolate hue; 11 the others, lie Smoking s found the lout offering intly armed, carrying only a single-barrelled gun, I considered it the safest plan to follow their example; particularly as there are generally two or more of these creature^ in company. I therefore contented myself with procuring two fine specimens of their heads, my means of conveyance being altogether inadequate to the carrying a whole skin ; but I was so un- lucky as to lose one of these heads, which a Wolverine carried away while it was drying. The flesh is ver}' bad eating, the very dogs refusing to touch it. Their food con- sists of flesh, berries, and roots: the berries of the Hippophue canadensis have a very obvious effect upon them, acting as a strong cathartic. Tliey lie dormant for a few months in the depth of winter, and when they retire to their hiding-places, generally under a fallen tree, or some similar situation, tiiey are extremely fat, and even when they first sally out, are in good condition, which, however, they soon lose. I saw several miserable objects, (proofs of their prowess,) at the various establishments of the Company, but as I have already detailed the particulars to Dr. Richardson, it will be un- necessary here to repeat them. The Black Bear is also an inhabitant of these mountains, but it is a much less for- midable animal than the grisly bear. These are likewise subject to great variety of colour, and I have seen the skin of one nearly white, at least cream coloured ; there is also a kind with a reddish snout, which the hunters consider the most ferocious, but they seldom or ever attack man, unless wounded, or when defending their young. Their food ap- pears to consist principally of roots, and their flesh is tolerably good food, as I often had occasion to experience, the paws being considered a great delicacy by the Indians, who hunt them with avidity, while they are in great fear of the grisly bear. The description of them in Lewis and Clark's Travels, appears rather overcharged ; but perhaps they are more ferocious on the Missouri than they are in moi'e northern latitudes. A species of Marmot inhabits the Rocky Mountains, of which I am sorry to say that no speci- men was obtained. It is called by the Canadians Le Siffleiir, being remarkable for its whistling. I saw it occasionally, \m 212 ■1 y; but never got near enough to shoot it; it appears to be about the size of a common cat, and resembles a badger in colour. These marmots are extremely vigilant, always placing a sentinel, who watches while the rest are feeding or cutting provisions for the winter ; on being disturbed, ho gives a shrill whistle, which is repeated from one to another along the whole side of the mountain which they inhabit. Their flesh is much esteemed by the natives, who take them in traps, and they are much more frequent on the western than the eastern side of the mountains. I observed them on the mountains .lear the Wolf's Plain, and also saw there the following little animal, Arctomys Parryi, whicii is abundant there, and in its manners appearing exactly to resemble those species which inhabit tlie plains about Carlton. Speci- mens of it were brought home. There is also another diminutive animal found among the llocky Mountains, whose general form and apjiearance exactly resembles a young rabbit of five or six weeks old, having small round ears. It is probably another kind of marmot, and lives in rough stony places near the summits of the mountains. It has a weak cry, resembling that of a rabbit when hurt. Upon the approach of any one, it gives the alarm, disappearing among the stones, and soon showing itself again at a distance of fif- teen or twenty yards from its first station. They appear to make no burrows of their own, but make their way among the interstices of the stones with great celerity. They live on grass, and probably sleep during the winter. Among the birds of these regions^ the Calumet Eagle is one of the scarcest. It is about the size of the common grey eagle of our mountains, and nearly of the same colour, the tail excepted, which is very beautiful, — black at both ex- tremities, and white in the middle. They are highly prized by the natives, who decorate their war bonnets and the stems of their calumets with their feathers, whence I have adopted the name. It would appear that they are very rare, as I never saw any but the one I killed It was a very old bird, and the plumage in bad order, having been shot in the sum- mer-time, upon the summit of one of the mountains near , { ril&ci; 213 ears to be badger in nt, always ire feeding sturbed, he to another ey inhabit. » take them the western ed them on w there the is abundant resemble on. Speci- Iso another ;ains, whose ?s a young id ears. It ;s in rough s. It has a Upon the iring among tance of fif- iy appear to way among rhey live on net Eagle is amnion grey colour, the at both ex- lighly prized id the stems lave adopted y rare, as I ;ry old bird, ; in the sum- .mtains near Lac-iu-Pienc. llail I but the pen of M. Audubun, I could give as striking a description of it as he gives of the " Bird of Washington." Of the genus Tetrao I remarked the following species: Tetrao P/umanellits, the one which I have already described as inhabiting tlie plains; 7. canademis, which frec|uents pine woods; T. UmbeUus, or the White Flesher, a bird found among poplar woods, and remarkable for the curious beating that it makes vvitii its wings, and always when seated on a fallen tree; another species of Tetrao, nearly allied to the last, and probably only a variety of it; 7'. Rich- ardsoiii: — this fine bird has been thus named by M. Louis Bonaparte, in honour of Dr. Richardson ; it is the largest species that I saw, and appears to be peculiar to the Rocky Mountains; the back of the male is of an uniform dark brown, nearly black, with the breast and under part of a leaden colour, the space round the eyes, which is bare of feathers, is, in this bird, of a yellow colour. The usual station of the male, about the pairing time, is on some rocky eminence, or large stone, where he sits, swelling out his neck, spreading his tail, and repeating the cry, " Coombe, Coombe" in the fine mornings. The hens much resemble the females of Tetrao canadensis, and are considerably smaller than the other sex. They live on berries and herbs of various kinds, and are very good eating. Of those species that turn white during winter, I saw three ; they were easily distinguishable by one having the whole tail black, another has only two black feathers in it, and th-- -ther has a tail entirely white. Neither Ptarmigans nor U'illuw-Grous occur among the mountains, and none of the species are migratory ; but the winter residents are few in number. The following birds were seen : seven or eight species of Wood- pecker, the Golden Winged species being the only one that migrates ; three or four different Oivls ; the Common Raven, and the Corvus canadensis, (the Uskashoan of the Indians;) this bird is very familiar, generally making its appearance wherever you may chance to encamp, attracted doubtless by the hope of finding provisions. It is very fond of the fat of meat, which it will steal, and lay up encache for a future 214 occasion. It begins to bniid early : I observed a pair col- lecting materials for a nest on tlie 18th of March, although the ground was covered at the time with five or six feet depth of snow. The Lesser Redpoll, and two species of Varus are also winter residents, which is astonishing, as the ther- mometer often sinks to 50 degrees below zero. One kind of Falcon, the Falco jtaUunbarius, also remained all the year at the ))lace where I first resided during the winter, on Baptiste River, about 60 or 80 niiles from the Rocky Mountains: also the Snotv Bnntiiir/, {Ember izn niirtlis,) and a kind of ll'afer Ouzel, very similar to the British species, but without the white breast. Those birds which are migratory, quit this part of the country about the beginning of October, and reappear in tiie latter end of April. One of the first to return is the JVhite Headed Eoyle, and then follow the Ducks and Geese, with a whole host of small birds. The only songster is a species of Turdus, called by the Canadians the liolfiii i it resembles the common thrush, except in having a reddish breast. In the spring of 1826, innnense flocks of the Bohemian or JVaxcn Chatterer were observed feeding on the berries of Arbutus Ura-nrsi, but 1 do not think that they breed here, although a small fiock of them was seen on the south branch of the Saskatcluuvan in June 1827. The snow-shoe travelling, and the mode of encamping during winter has been so frefjuently described, that it is quite unnecessary for me to iletail them here. One of the principal inducements for fixing upon any particular situation is when it atlbrds dry wood in abundance. The snow is then cleared away with the assistance of the snow-shoes, and irees of a large size having been felled, they are divided into lengths fit for carrying. You may then, after lighting a fire collect a parcel of pine branches, the white spruce and balsam if jjrocurable, are the best, with which \ space is covered sulHcient for a bed, and proceed to prepare supper. Pemmican is the best and most convenient food to be carried upon a journey. Without a pound of this and a little tea, no one should think of travelling in these desert wilds; it aflbrds an excellent meal, and the hunter may afterwards al tl P a c I i ( { I It t I 215 prepare for rest by rollinj^ round him the bhuikct which he always lakes with him. If the fire be occasionally renewed, the weatlier seldom causes mucli inconvenience. To a person accustonu,'d to all tlie luxuries u civili/ed country can afford, this mode of life appears hard and iminvitinjjf, but the change takes place gradually, and is therefore but little felt. It seems strange, too, to live entirely on animal food, without any vegetables or salt, but it produces no inconvenience, as I can attest from an experience of about eighteen months, when I enjoyed a state of perfect health. I found full employment in collecting the productions of the vicinity of Carlton I louse till the end of May, when Dr. Richardson (|uitted us to meet Captain Franklin at Cumber- land House : thither Captain Back and I and the rest of the Expedition followed him in the beginning of July ; but during my stay at Carlton House, I made several short ex- cursions to the South Branch River, which rises considerably farther to the southward than the North Branch, bu^ did not find a single plant different from what are met with on the latter river. I also ascended the Nortli Branch for upwards of a hundred miles, but saw little that was not equally common nearer to the Fort; from which circum- stances, I was induced to conclude that little variation takes place for a considerable distance to the southward. Dr. Richardson having left his servant with me, we embarked in a small canoe on the 11th of July, picking up what specimens we could find along the river, and reached Cumberland House on the morning of the 19th, quite safe. As Captain Back was not yet arrived, I determined upon making an excursion as far north as Beaver Lake, where I added a few common plants to the collection ; but as Dr. Richardson liad already passed that way twice before, there was little left for me to do. I returned again to Cumberland House, and in a few days Captain Back and Lieutenant Kendall, with the rest of the people belonging to the Expedition, arrived in excellent health, and we immediately began preparing to embark for York Factory, on Hudson's Bay. As we travelled witli much despatch, my collections 216 I received but little accessions of any importance. Cypripedium arietinum was found on tlie portage of the Grand Rapids, at the entrance of Lake Winnipeg; IVeissia calcarea and Tor- tula humilis on the limestone rocks of the same lake ; Splach- num ampullacewn was growing between Norway House and the Bay, while Splachnum vasciilosum and intermedium, Weissia turbinata, Cinclidium stygium, &c. abounded near the Factory. Several phaenogamods plants, not previously re- marked, were met with, such as Saxifraga Hircnlus, Carda- mine pratensis, a species of Tanacetum, and two or three Umbellifer(B, one of them viviparous, with some Syngenesioiis plants, and Aralia hispidn, &c. &c. On the 1st of September, we encountered a dreadful storm in Hudson's Bay, from which we escaped as if by miracle. We had gone to visit the ship, which lay at five or six miles distance from the Fort ; the party consisting of Captain Back, Lieutenant Kendall, Mr. D. Douglas, the Doctor belonging to th& establishment, and myself, with eight men. On leav- ing the vessel to return to the Fort in the evening, the wind blew rather freshly, but little danger was apprehended; it suddenly, however, increased to a hurricane, and we were compelled to return if possible to the ship, but after several vain attempts, we found this to be impracticable. We, therefore, threw out an anchor until a boat should be sent to our assistance from the ship. This was immediately done, the boat being furnished with a tow line, and just as it had neared to within twenty or thirty yards of us, our anchor gave way, and we were driven off, at the mercy of the winds and waves. Our masts were almost immediately carried overboard, and after a dreadfully severe, but ineffectual attempt to approach the vessel by dint of rowing, we were compelled to give over, and to submit to being carried out to sea. By this time the water had become very rough, and our little bark was tossed about like an egg-shell, which caused all the men to get sick, and utterly incapacitated them from making the smallest effort to save themselves and us. We continued baling out the water with our hats, as much as we could. Lieutenant Kendall exerted himself to the 217 t Utmost, and he succeeded iu setting up a temporary mast, which enabled Captain Back to keep the liead of the boat to windward, and we continued to drive before the wind farther and farther out to sea. We had already lightened our little skifF by heaving overboard several casks of provision with which she had been loaded, and it was proposed to run her ashore, but most of the party opposed this, and it was resolved to continue out to sea. The night was dark in the extreme, with tremendous thunder and rain, the billows rolling mountains high, and breaking continually over us, which, added to the severe cold, caused us great suffering. Mr. Douglas became dreadfully ill, and the rest were in so benumbed a state, that it was hardly possible to make tlie necessary exertion to keep the boat from sinking, which could only be done by relieving her constantly from the water as fast as she filled. I shall never forget the sound of the waves as they approached us : sometimes, by the skill of our steersman, we partly avoided them, but much pftener did they dash over us with tremendous fury, and had two of these billows followed in quick succession, our instant destruction would have been inevitable, but by constant baling we kept the boat afloat. The stoi'm continued without abating during the night, and at break of day we found ourselves rapidly drifting towards a lee shore. This we avoided by tacking, and we still continued to drive to sea. Towards the middle of the next day, the hurricane began to diminish a liti'le in violence, but the sea was still dreadfully agitated, and it was not till the middle of the following night that our oars could be of the smallest service to us. At this time we were entirely out of sight of land, without compass to guide our course ; the sun, too, was not visible. As the storm diminished, the men recovered fro'ii their sickness, and the oars were again plied, and with seme success, as it afterwards appeared that we had gone to a distance of 60 or 70 miles in the Bay. With the aid of the tide and our oars we retraced our way back, and never shall I forget the joy that beamed on every countenance when the masts of the ship were again visible. Previous to this we liad felt a return 218 of appetite, which was a sure sign that we considered our- selves comparatively out of danger, and a cask containing oatmeal was quickly broached, which, mixed with a little saltwater, sufficed to allay our hunger; but I believe that Lieutenant Kendall and myself were the only partakers. We were soon espied from the ship, and a boat with jjlenty of provisions was sent to meet us, which proved very accep- table. The news of our having been swept out to sea had been speedily conveyed to the Factory, and Mr. M'Tavish, the Superintendant, lost no time in despatching Indians along each shore of the Bay, with provisions, &c. in case of our being cast ashore alive, for it was not considered possible that an open boat could have weathered so tremendous a storm ; but when they found the casks of stores that we had thrown overboard, they almost all returned, and gave us up for lost. On reaching the vessel, we received the kindest attention from our fellow-suft'erer, Captain Davidson, and likewise from Mr. M'Tavish, York Factory. Mr. Kendall and Mr. Douglas suffered severely, and did not recover the full use of their limbs until their landing in England. For my own part I endured little inconvenience, comparatively, and after enjoying a night's repose, I was able to take a walk as far as the North River, about five miles distant from the Fort, through a continued swamp the whole way, which was very laborious, for I sank up to my knees at every step, the underneath part of the ground being hard frozen, and the only plant which recompensed me for all my labour was PolytricJmm formosum. Shortly after, we set sail for England in the Hudson's Bay Company's ship, the Prince of Wales, and having an excellent passage, arrived in London on the 15di of October, 1827, in good health. I am sorry not to be qualified to speak of the mineral kingdom, and the only opportunity that occurred for investi- gation was unfortunately lost by spending the winter of 1825-6 distan* *^rom the Rocky Mountains. There appears, however, to l)e little variety ; the high mountains consisting principally of primitive limestone on their eastern side. On reaching the Height of Land, these characters change, us the 219 changes of vegetation may testify, and the mountains are found to be formed of micaceous slate. The Columbia appears to flow through a country exactly similar, as at least one-third of its sand is composed of mica. I observed one large vein of secondary limestone, containing fossils, when crossing the Assinaboyne River, near a considerable water- fall, about 60 miles above its junction with Red-Deer River. The mountains which I explored north of the Smokmg River are principally conglomerate sandstone, and below these, the country appears to be sandstone, containing coal, for at least 200 miles to the eastward, as far as Edmonton House on the Saskatchawa:>. At the eastern extremity of Lake Winnipeg, which is limestone, the primitive rocks aoain occur, and these probably continue to the sea. LEDEBOUR'S ILLUSTRATIONS OF RUSSIAN PLANTS. This work, which is so much desired by the scientific botanist, we are happy to learn from the author himself, is in a state of considerable forwardness, and will, under the title of " Irnnes rinMnrnm Knvarmn rel imperfecfe Cognitarum, Floram Rossicam, imprimis Altaicam Illustratantes," together with a complete Flora Altaica, and an account of the journey, speedily be published. The Altaic pl'vuls were collected by the Counsellor ot State, Ledebor -, assisted by Dr. Bunge and Dr. Meyer, during a jour .; >:i lertaken at the expense of the Russian Government, .■ . -e view to examine the natural produc- tions of the A ...'.. " '.ountains, and a portion of the Chinese dominions border !,' -pon them. During the period that Ledebour was engaged in investigating that part of the SUppr s .lated between tlie Oh ami the Irtifsch, m crossing the lofty mountains to tl.. w.st and south west of the Altaic range, the valley of tlie Tscluirt/sc/,, the Kolisini, the upper Katiotja, and the Ihahtorma on the Russian frontiers, the ) , 220 ^1 eastern chain of the Altai were explored by Bunge, who passed a considerable length of time in the districts of the lower Katunja, the Tschuja, the Baschkans, and Tschulysch- man, thence by tlie mouth of the river into the Telezhischen Lake, or Sea. Meyer, in the meantime, ascended the Irtysch^ as far as Noor-Saisan, by which means he visited the eastern mountains of Kurtschen, situated in the Chinese Empire, as well as the Dolen-kara and Ackaul ; thence, crossing it in a westerly direction, he passed through Somgoripsa, Kirgisen steppe, particularly the territories of Ablaikit and Seniipala- tinsA, and passed over the mountainous range of Tschingistan, Kent, Ku, and Kar-harcda, to the Altyn-tubi; and to the sources of the Nura. The " Icones Plantarum " wil ' 'blished at Munich, and will comprise 500 plates in folic. .;uted in lithography by Seb. Minsinger. It will appear in 10 parts, each of 50 leaves, two of which parts will form a volume. The figures will chiefly represent new pmnts, discovered in the Altaic mountains and their environs. But a few other species of the Russian Asiatic Flora will also be admitted, which, if they have not altogether escaped the notice of former travel- lers, have as yet been imperfectly known, and either not at all, or vei'y erroneously represented. The drawings, always made under the immediate inspection of the author, all from perfect and mostly living specimens, exhibit the plants of the natural size; and every where, when necessary, are added accurate and more or less magnified analyses of the parts of fructification. The text, given in Latin, will appear on beautiful vellum paper, and of the same size as the plates, and will be confined to the names, diagnoses, mention of the country, duration, and time of flowering of the plant, char- acters of the new genera, and explanations of the plates. The more full descriptions will appear in the Fhra Altaica above mentioned, which will be published in octavo. This work, in three volumes, will enumerate all the plants found on the Altaic Mountains, and in the Steppes which extend along their southern and western bases, and will contain about 1700 species, arranged according to the Linneean 5 ■■■•"IT ir< Mc7u 3 t' w 07r I , fo<:^ pew sr>e'i.Ur's, \r^£.