IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I I, ^ Ini^ii ^ IIIIIM li|M 1.8 1.25 1.4 116 == lii== ■^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y 14580 (716) 873-4503 4^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques O' Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of th> copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter anv of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D 3 D n Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommag6e □ Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur6e et/ou pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. fautre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reii6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ Ln reliure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int6rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'una restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 film6es. Additional comments:/ Commentaires 8uppl6mentairos.- L'lnstitut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6X6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m6thode normale de filmage sont indiqu^s ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ n Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^es Pages restored and/oi Pages restaurdes et/ou pellicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxet Pa{;as ddcolor^es, tachet^es ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pages d^tachdes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quaiiti indgaie de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel suppldmentaire I I Pages damaged/ I I Pages restored and/or laminated/ r~7| Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ I I Pages detached/ I I Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ r~n Includes supplementary material/ Only edition available/ Seule (idition disponibie Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totdlement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 film^es A nouveau de fapon A obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X [y ^■1^1 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmad here het been reproduced thenks to the generosity of: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia L'exempleire film* fut reproduit grAce A la ginArositd de: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia The in>ages appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Les images suivantes ont 6X6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettat6 de I'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Les exemolaires originaux dont la couvtirture en papier esi imprimAe sont film^s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmis en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte urse telle empreinte. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -^ (meaning "CON- TINUED "), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur !a dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole —^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed bef^inning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s A des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 6 partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche 6 droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m^thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 s- ■) , j , -.", V ^ -^ '^" ^ff%' 1 ■M i-i. M fe-..| •# ' ( JillB,lW«()iJU!.iMMil|«lJJlfi §y or. .«»'v DIRECTORY FOR BEHRING'S SEA AND COAST OF ALASKA, ARKANOED FROM THE DIRECTORY OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN, BT A. a. FINDLAY: CORRECTED FROM CHARTS OF THE UNITED STATES SURVEYING EXPEDITION UNDER COMMAND OF COMMODORE JOHN RODGERS, 1855, AND FROM SURVEYS OF COM- MANDER R. W. MEADE, Jr., COMMAND- ING UNITED STATES STEAMER SAGINAW, 1869. II BUREAU OF NAVIGATION. \ WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, 1869. 4 ^ -vV 'A :■: '•v.. r j... BH ^'^N- ALASKA DIRECTORY. , I ■%. C HA P T p] R I. COAST OF BRITISH AMERICA, FROM QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND TO THE PORTLAND CANAL. The little-frequented coast described in this chapter forms pjirt of the territory of the Hudson's Bay Company, and is the western seaboard of the districts formerly known under the names of l!^ew Hanover and New Cornwall. The whole of it is fronted by an immense collection of islands of all dimensions and forms. Within these is a correspondingly extensi ve series of channels and arms of the sea, forming a most complete chain of inland navigation, which may be i)nrsued for many degrees to the north- ward without interruption or exposure to the oceanic swell. It is true that in many parts these canals are too narrow to be very advantageous for sailing vessels to work through, and are thei^efore more adapted for steam navigation than by other modes ; yet the great depth of water, in most parts all but unfathomable, and the boldness of the shores, make this disadvantage of less imnortance. One feature adverted to by Vanc(m- ver, who has excellently surveyed part of this inland navigation, and which is remarkable, is, that caution ought to be used in passing close to some of the projecting points ; for he found that, nothwithstanding the perpendicularity of the clift's composing the shores, that a shelf Avould sometimes project under water from the general line of the upper por- tion, a fact which, if neglected, might lead to serious consequences. Besides these channels the continent is penetrated with numerous and peculiar canals, whose characteristics, greatly similar in all cases, will be best gathered from the ensuing descriptions. There are no rivers, or at least none of importance have been discovered. They are mere torrents, fed in summer by the melting of the snow, a. 1 in the winter 'by the untiring deluges of this dismal climate. The Babine, the Nass, and the Stikine are the only ones within the territories visited by the Hudson's Bay Company that nuiy be ascended to anj- distance, and even these oidy with considerable difticulty and danger. The principal discoveries on the coast are due to the zeal and perse- verance of two intelligent men, who traded thither under the license of the South Sea Company. These we'^e Captains Portlock and Uixon ; they made the principal discoveries on e coast subsequent to Captain Cook's visit, in his last voyage. Their .arratives are, nevertheless, too diffuse, anart bears from Cape Caution west by north one-half north, distant about five miles ; but the rocks that lie off the shore to the northward of the cape reduce the width of the chan- nel between them and the breakers to about a league, in which there does not appear any obstructiou which is not sufiQciently conspicuous to be avoided. The Virgin and Pearl Eocks are two very dangerous clusters off the entrance to Smith's Inlet; They were discovered and named by Mr. Hanna, in 178G. The Virgin Rocks lie west by north one-quarter north, thirteen miles from the sonth point of Smith's Inlet; and the Pearl Rocks, northwest three-quarters north, eight miles from the same point. They lie in a line west-southwest from the south extreme of Calvert's Island^ eleven and four miles distant respectively. Smith's Inlet. — The entrance lies about seven miles north of Cape Caution, tho intervening coast being bestrewed with rocks and islets. The entrance into it is nearly closed by rocky islets, some producing shrubs and small trees, others none; with innumerable rocks, as well above as beneath the sea, rendering it a very intricate and dangerous navigation for shipping. About three leagues within the entrance the ..^■■^ X- w 6 ALASKA DIRECTORY. i .. ! i- rock.s and Lshits ceaHe to exist, aiul the inlet contracts to about half a niilo in general width. The shores are both formed of high rocky preci- pices covered with wood. RiyER's Canal is about a league to the northward of the north point of Sinith's Inlet. The entrance to it ai)pears less dangerous than the latter. It has, however, on its southern side many rocky islets and rocks, but none were discovered beneath the water level. By keeping on the north side of the entrance, which is one and a half miles across, a fair navigable passage is found, about half a mile wide, between the n«nth shore and the rocky islets that lie off its southern side. The land about its mouth is of juodorate height, but toward its head, where it branches off in different directions, the shores ure composed .of high, steep, rocky mountains, and, like Smith's Inlet and nmny other of the canals in the neighborhood, there was no bottom found in the middle with eighty fathoms of line; though in the bays found in most of these canals anchorage may, in sill probability, be procured. From Elver's Canal a channel diverges toward the south end of Cal- vert's Island. It is very imrrow and intricate, leading through an im- mensity of rocks and islets to Point Addenbrooke, in Fitzhugh's Sound. Calvert's Island forms the exterior coast northward of River's Canal, and within it is Fitzhugh's Sound; the former was discovered and named by Mr. Duncan, the latter by Mr. Ilanna. Off the south point of the island are two small islets. The eastern side of the island forms a steep, bold shore, rising abruptly from the sea to a great height, com- posed of rock, and, like the eastern shore, entirely covered with pine trees. Safety Cove (Port Safety of Mr. Duncan!) is two leagues north of the south extreme of Calvert's Island, on the west shore of Fitzhugh's Sound. It terminates in a small beach, near which is a stream of excel- lent water and an abundance of wood. The depth is, however, rather great — seventeen to thirty fathoms. A small rock and two rocky islets lie off its north i)oiut of entrance, which is about a quarter of a mile wide. It is the first place that affords safe and convenient anchorage on the western shore within Fitzhugh's Sound. Vancouver found it a com- fortable retreat in August, 17{)2. High water at the time the moon passes the meridian ; rise and fall about ten feet. At thirteen miles northward of Safety Cove is the passage which in- sulates Calvert Island. Vancouver places its northeast point in latitude 51° 45'. South of this point lies a sunken rock, which, though near the shore, is dangerous, being visible at low tide only, by the surf, which breaks on it. From this point the passage extend>s southwest by west one-half west, about seven miles. Its northern shore is composed of rocky islets and rocks, with some scattered rocks off its northern shore. Between these rocks is a passage, generally one or two miles wide, but rendered unpleasant by the Avant of soundings, the dei)th being beyond one huutlred and fifty fathoms. f^ -■■ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 7 FiTZHTian's Sound extends for twenty-six miles from Safety Cove, in nearly a true north direction, to Point Walker, where it separates into two arms. The easternmost was named by Vancouver after Ednuuul Burke. Its southeast point is Point Edmund, about two miles east- southeast from Point Walker. There are some rocks off the points, but the channel is fair. The sides of the canal are composed of compact, stupendous mountains, and nearly perpendicular rocky cliffs, producing pine trees to a considerable height above the shores, and then barren, or nearly so, to their lofty summits, which were mostly covered with snow in August. Eestoration Cove is about eight miles within the entrance to the eastern branch of Burke's Canal. It has a tine sandy beach, through which flows an excellent stream of water. The breadth of the cove at its entrance, in a north and south direction, is about one and a quarter miles, and its depth .about three-quarters of a mile. The soundings, though deep, are regular, from sixty fathoms at the entrance, to Ave and ten fathoms close tc the shore. The land on the opposite side of the arm is two and a half miles distant. The tide rises and falls fourteen feet, those in the night one foot higher than the day tides; the flood comes from the south, and it is high water at the time the moon passes the meridian. Variation, 19° 15' east. Bueke's Canal, extends to the northeast, maintaining the same breadth. Its northwestern side is formed by a large island, named by Vancouver King's Island. After continuing eleven miles in an easterly direction from the northeast point of King's Island, the canal separates into two arms, to the northeast and southeast at Point Menzies. These arms were named by Vancouver Bentinck's Arms. The width of that to the southeast in general a little exceeds a mile, and the coun- try exactly resembles that contiguous to the branches, Avhich have been so repeatedly described. On the eastern side of this canal, near the head of a small rivulet, a native house, of singular construction, was observed by Mr. Johnstone, of Vancouver's party, and some Indians led them to a village different to any they had seen. Sir Alexander Mackenzie reached the Paciflc after his long, arduous, and perilous journey across the continent at this point a month after Vancouver's party had left. He came to a village of twenty-six large houses, Avhere Mr. Johnstone had come on June 1st, 1793, as above no- ticed. He coasted along King's Island, and learned that Macubah (as the natives termed Vancouver) had been there with his large canoe. He commenced his return July 22, 1793.* " This is as desolate, inhospitable a country as the most melancholy creature could be desirous of inhabiting. The eagle, crow, and raven, that occasionally had borne us company in our lonely researches, visited not these dreary shores. The common shell-fish, such as nuissels, clams, * Mackenzie's Travels, p. 342, et seq.; aud Vancouver, vol. ii, pp. 273-4. fff »^ .^JSk 8 ALASKA DIRECTORY. Hi and cockles, and the nettle, samphire, and other coarse vegetables, that had been so essential to our health and maintenance in all our former excursions, (in the southward,) were hardly found anywhere to exist ; scarcely any signs of human beings were found in the country, which appears to be devoted entirely to the amjdiibious race; seals and sea- otters, particularly the latter, were seen in great nund)ers."* The northeast point of King's Island was named Point Edward. Op- posite to it is the entrance of Dean's Canal, which penetrates many miles in a northeast and north direction, terminating in low marshy laud. In this inlet neither ebb nor flood occasions any visible stream. Cascade Canal is to the north Avest of Toint Edward. Its shores are bounded by precipices more lofty than any hereabouts; and from the summits of the mcuntains, p.articularly on the northeast shore, are some extremely grand and tremendous cascades. The canal which forms the northwest side of King's Island runs southwest to Fisher's Canal. FiSHER'-s Canal separates the southernmost of the Princess Royal Islands from the mainlai.d. The Princess Royal Islands form a portion of that immense archi- pelago which here front.'* the American continent. On its western side it is uneven, rocky, and of moderate height. The eastern shore rises more abruptly, and bounded behind v, itli lofty snowy mountains. Port John is ten miles nearly north of the entrance to Burke's Canal, before described. It is on the western side of King's Island, and forms a good harbor. Its north point ot entrance bears north by east two miles from its south point. Before its entrance are two small islands, and towards its northern shore are some rocks. To the north of Port John is the entrance to the canal previously men- tioned, which passes round the northwest side of King's Island toward Cascade and Dean's Canals. Fisher's Canal continues its northern course for twelve miles above Port John, its shores being comparatively of moderate height. Its surface, covered with wood, is Tcry uneven. From this point it takes a westerly course to Milbank Sound, and forms the north limit of the southern Princess Royal Islands. The course is first about west by north one-half north a league, the shores being low and rocky, w ith many detached rocks lying oft' them. The channel then takes a more southerly course, and although there are many rocks and breakers in it, they are all sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided in fair weather. Milbank Sound is an opening between the Princess Royal Islands, in latitude 52° 13'. Its southeast point is Cape SwaMie, so named after the third lieutenant of the Discovery, Vancouver's vessel. Milbank Sound was discovered and named by Mr. Duncan. Its n,^rthwest point is Point Day, off which lie several very barren rocky islets. The southern side of the channel or sound, being entirely covered with trees and with * Vancouver, vol. i, p. 374. ALASKA DIRECTORY. ;s, that former exist ; which h\ sea- Op. many uirshy earn. sliores om the some tns the Koyal low sTiores, is very pleasant in appearance, but the northern sides are a rude, confused mass of low, rugj^ed cliffs, bounded by iuniunerable rocky islets and rocks. Fort M'Louohlin, distant a few miles from ]\rilbank Sound, is (or was) one of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts. " This very neat estab- lishment was planned, in 18;J7, by Mr. Finlayson,of Ked Kiver, who left the place in an unfinished state to Mr. Manson, who, in his turn, had cer- tainly made the most of the capabilities of the situation. The site must originally have been one of the most rugged spots imaginable; a mere rock, in fact, as uneven as the adjacent Avaters in a tempest: while its soil, buried as it was iu itij * '^vices, served only to encumber the surface with a heavy growth of tim >er. Besides blasting and leveling, Mr. Manson, Avithout the aid ot horse or ox, had introduced several thousand loads of gravel, while ' y his judicious contrivances in the way of forti- fication, he had rendered the place capable of holding out, with a garri- son of twenty men, agaii» t nli Ih'^ natives of the coast. Mr. Mauson's successor, Mr. Charles Uo'i, had made considerable additions to the garden, which, when 81r Geuxge Simpson visited it, in 1842, was about three acres in extent, with a soil i)iiiif'ipally formed of seaweed, and produced cabl)ages, potatoes, turnips, carrots, and other vegetables. '' In the neighborhood 6f the fort was a village of about live hundred Bollabollas, who spoke a dialect of the Quakeolth language. Here Sir George Simpson first saw that disgusting and singular ornament of the fair sex, the lip-piece. The fashion, however, is now wearing out, from respect to the opinion of the whites."* Several inlets or arms run up to the northward from the canal leading from Fisher's Canal into Milbank Sound. They are very similar in char- acter, and need no particular description. The principal arm out of Milbank Sound is the westernmost, and runs in a general northerly direc- tion for thirty miles, when it divides, one portion contiiiuing to the north- ward, and a wider branch extending eastward to Carter's Bay and Mus- sel Canal. These two last derive their names from one of Vancouver's party ha\ing died from the effects of poisonous mussels collected in Poison Cove, latitude 52° 55', longitude 128<^ 1' west. The whole party who partook of them were seized with a numbness about their faces and ex- tremities, wnich soon extended to their whole bodies, accompanied with sickness and gi" 'V-^T^^Lyr'-'^T'' 1 14 ALASKA DIRECTORY. %' f: the north point of Banks's Island, twenty miles, is a bank of sand and shells in twenty-three to twen\:y-flve fathoms, suddenly rising from thirty fathopis, mud, on each side. This bank apparently extends towards Point Ibetson. , Chatham's Sound lies between Dundas and Stephens's Islands and the mainland. The southern entrances have been before described. Brown's Passage enters the sound between the islands to the north of Stephens's Island and Dundas Island. This latter, in a north- northwest direction, is fifteen miles long, and five broad east and west. Tfie eastern shores of the sound are low, and somewhat indented with small bays, and bounded by a reef of rocks at the distance of a quarter of a mile off shore. The interior country is snowy mountains. The shores and islands in the sound produce large numbers of pine trees. In the northern part of the sound are two clusters of rocks with breakers around, one south-southwest one-half west eight miles, and the southernmost southwest by south ten and a half miles from Point Maslvolyne. By daylight they are easily avoided, but by night or in fogs they must be very dangerous. Point Maskelyne, so named after the astronomer, forms the south- east point of the entrance to Observatoi'y Inlet and Portland Canal. Off it lie two rocky islets, and to the south of it a rocky island close to the shore. The opposite or northwestern point is Point Wales. Works Canal. — Immediately east of Point Maskelyne is the entrance to a branch which takes a southeast direction for thirty two miles, its head approaching within about half a mile of the northeast part of Port Essington, thus forming the land into a peninsula. Its south- west shores are nearly straight and compact; its general width from one and a half to two miles, excepting near the entrance. An arm diverges from its northeast shore at twenty-three miles within the entrance, and trends in a general northeast direction, bu made into a tortuous channel by a remarkably steep, rocky precipice, which at high water becomes an island. It had formerly been appropriated to .he resi- dence of a very numerous tribe of Indians. " Fort Slmpson, one of the Hudson's Bay Company's establishments, was originally formed at the mouth of the Nass liiver, but had been removed to this peninsula, washed on three sides by Chatham Sound, Port Essington, and Works Canal. It is the resort of a vast number of Indians, amounting in all to about 14,000, of various tribes. All these visitors are turbulent and fierce. Their broils, which are invariably attended with bloodshed, generally arise from the most trivial causes; such, for instance, as gambling quarrels, or the neglect of points of etiquette. Here the lip-piece is in more general use than on any other part of the coast, but is clearly going out of vogue ; for it wsis far more common among the ancient dames than among the young women. The anchorage is in latitude 54° 33' 2o", longitude 130° 18'."* * Sir George Simpson, vol. i, p. 207. I were g flavor Thei 1310 '^ 8 mini about Be,> tion, same Obsei aboui Poi diverj for al leagi ating entra and i rockj interi with leapii num) upwiil ThI ■^ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 15 ul and from sxteiids ids and icribed. nortli iiortli- ist and iidented lice of a untains. of pine ['ks with and the 111 Point »r in fogs le south- id Canal, close to entrance (vo miles, least part [ts south- idth from An arm ithin the ade into a 'li at high ;o ihe resi- lifshraents, had been ,m Sound, number of All these invariably ial causes; ' points of any other s far more men. The / At the mouth of "Works Canal, northeast of Point Maskelyne, is an island wliidi divides the entrance into two channels ; in the rear of this is a short arm called Nass Bay, and further northeast is one more exten- sive ; neither require particular notice. Observatory Inlet. — The principle inlet runs iu a northeast one-half north direction ; and at twenty-one miles above Points Maskelyne and Wales the Portland Canal diverges from the principle one at Point Hams- den. Oif this point are some dangerous rocks, only visible at low water, and opposite to it is a deep bay, with very shallow water iill around it. except in the northeast part, where a branch enters, bruiging down muddy water, which is distinguished flowing down the principal arm. Beyond this baj', to the northeast, the inlet is in general about half a league wide. The shores on both sides are straight and compact; a counter tide, or strong under-tow, is felt here, which very much embar- rasses a vessel. Salmon Cove is twenty miles above Point Eamsden, and on the west- ern shore of Observatory Inlet. It affords good anchorage and every con- venience. Here Vancouver's vessel remained for some time in July, 1793, and here he placed his observatory, from which circumstance the name of the inlet is derived. A very great abundance of salmon was taken here, up a very fine run of fresh water that flows into the cove ; but they were small, insipid, of a very inferior kind, partaking iu no degree of the flavor of European salmon. The latitude of the obser%^atory was deduced as 55° 15' 31", longitude, 1310 3' 30" ; variation, 2;jO 18' east, dip. 75° 51 J'. High Avater at 1 hour 8 minutes after the moon passes the meridian, and the tide generally rose about sixteen feet. Beyond Salmon Cove t^e inlet extends fiAe leagues in a north direc- tion, when the western arm terminates ; and tlie eastern arm extends ilie same distance, and forms the mouth of the Kiver Simpson. The head of Observatory Inlet is much indented with small bays and coves, and abounding in some places with sunken rocks. Portland Canal (so named from the noble family of Bentinck) diverges from Point Eamsden in a north by west one- half west direction for about five miles ; thence it bears in a more northerly direction five leagues further, and then trends a little to the eastward of north, termin- ating in loAv marshy' laud in latitude 55° 45', seventy miles from its entrance in Chatham's Sound. The shores of this inlet are nearly straight, and in general little more than a mile asunder, composed mostly of high, rocky cliffs, covered Avitli piue trees to a considerable height ; but the interior country is a compact body of high, barren mountains, covered with snow. As the surveying party ascended, salmon in abundance were leaping in all directions. Seals and sea-otters were also seen in great numbers, even where the water was nearly fresh, which Avas the cas^ upAvards of twenty miles from its termination. The northern shore of the inlet, between Point Wales and Point Rams- ■■..■'fS-p> Tp^i:^f'P!«»p^ff''5?w?wm!P^ ¥»-' 16 ALASKA DIRECTORY. den, is formed by several islands, behind which a channel runs parallel with the direction of the main inlet. This gradually decreases in width southwestward, continuing thirteen miles from its northeast entrance to an opening to the southeast into the main channel! Pursuing the same direction, it enters much broken land, intersected by arms, forming an island about ten miles in circuit, to the northeast of which is an arm run- ning in a northeast direction, ending in low, steep, rocky shores. The shores form many little bays and coves, abounding with islets and rocks. An immense number of sea-otters, and some few seals, were here seen by Vancouver. At seven miles a little to the north of west from Point "Wales is the southwest extremity of an island, from whence an arm extends in a north three-quarter west direction, terminating in a fresh- water brook, in lati- tude 54° 5G', longitude 130° 40'. Its shores are nearly straight and com- pact. A league within the entrance, on the eastern side, are three small bjjys or coves with four or five islets before them. The southwest shore, composing the entrance to the above inlet, is much indented with small bays, and bounded by innumerable rocks, and from opposite the three small bays or coves it trends to the southwest to Cape Fox, so named from the statesman. About two and a half miles southeast from this point is the outermost of a cluster of rocks and islands, extending nearly in a southwest and northeast direction, about half a league. There is a channel between them and the cape. About half a league westward from Cape Fox is a very commodious and well- sheltered little cove. Northwest from Cape Fox, on a small island, is Fort Tongas, the south- ernmost military post of the United States in Alaska. It is in latitude 54° 43' north, and longitude 130° 42' west. The Portland Caijal, which may be considered to terminate here, is the boundary between Alaska and the British Possessions on the North American continent. The territory we have just described is only fre- quented by the Hudson's Bay Company's officers in their steam vessel for the purposes of occasional trade with the natives. The Fijiirt^d States territory of Alaska to the northward belonged to Eussia, but was Itiised by the Eussian- American Company to the Hudson's Bay Company for trading purposes. One of the most important features of this region, as yet unknown and undeveloped, is the extensive inland or archipelago, named Queen Charlotte Island, which is imperfectly described as follows : QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLAND. This laud was discovered nearly at the same period by the navigators of two nations. La Pi;rouse made the outer coast on August 10, 1786, and followed it from south to north, for fifty leagues, in the ensuing ten days. Captain Lowrie, in the Snow, Captain Cook and Captain Guise, in the Experiment, sailed from Nootka on July 27, in the same year, and made the land in question soon afterwards, though the day itself is not ( f.rr^''-'wr^.n^7,ni*^.rn-;r *■,t^t■.■^-■■^^■T^''■'••■ yy. >f -:,l-f^-^-yr ALASKA DIRECTORY. 17 i 3 parallel ill w^dtli trauce to tlie same rraliig an arm run - res. The Lud rocks. e seen by lies is the In a north )k, in lati- ■ and com- iree small e inlet, is rocks, and southwest half miles rocks and ;ion, about )e. About 8 and well- the south- in latitude liere, is the the North is only fre- eam vessel iiA^d States was leased jmpany for s region, as ichipelago, as follows : navigators St 10, 1786, tiusuing ten )tain Guise, le year, and itself is not now known. Thus the honor of discovery belongs to both the English and French, The name by whidi it is now known is derived from the vessel in which Captain Dixon made it in the year following, but only assumed that it was an island from conjecture, as it was not proved to be such till Captain Douglas, in the Ii)higenia, sailed through the strait which divides it from the continent of America. It has also been called Washington Island, by Ingraham. Dixon's Channel, which runs in between Queen Charlotte Island and the Prince of Wales's Archipejago, to the north of it, was discovered, perhaps, by Ensign Juan Perez, in 1774. It was next seen by Dixon, on July 1, 1780, though ho himself acknowledges that Captain Douglas was the first who sailed through it. He then sailed nearly round the island, afterwards repairing to Nootka. The eastern coast of the island was also examin«^d and traded on by Captain Duncan, in the Princess Royal, in 1787; after doing so he pro- ceeded to the eastward to some other islands, which he named the Princess Eoyal Islands, (which have been before described,) bufcAvhich have been supposed to be identical with the archipelago of San Lazaro of De Fonta, prcAiousily considered to be apocryphal. A part of the features of this latter were examined by Duncan, and he aiichored in nineteen of its har- bors, not Avithout being fre(piently exposed to the danger of losing his vessel, but he was indemnified by an ample trade in furs. These are the Iirincipal of those early traders who have made us acquainted Avith the existence and a part of the natural features of this large and fine island. It is included in the British Possessions, and up to the present time Ave are A-ery ignorant of its actual character and resources. The following accounts are, therefore, necessarily A^ery imi)erfect. Dixon, or rather Beresford, Avhose letters form part of the account of the A'oyage, says : " There is CA'ery reason to suppose, not only from the number of inlets aa^o met with on coasting along the shore, but from meeting the same inhabitants on the opposite sides of the coast, that it is not one continued land, but rather forms a group of islands. The land in some places is considerably elcA'ated, but not mountainous, and is totally coA'cred Avitli pines, Avhich in many places afford a pleasing con- trast to the snow that perpetually coA^ers the higher grounds. "The weather, Avhile aa'c Avere cruising here, was generally mild and temperate, (August, 1787,) the mean of the thermometer 54P. The whole time AA'c coasted along from Cloak Bay to Cape St. James the AA'ind Avas generally steady at nortliAvest and west-northwest; but no sooner had we doubled the cape and got to the northeast side of the land, than avc fell in with light variable Avinds and intervening calms. "The number of people Ave saw during the Avliole of our traflic was* about eight hundred and fifty ; and if w^e suppose an equal number to be left on shore, it Avill amount to seA'eiiteen hundred inhabitants, Avhich I haA'e reason to think aaIU be found the extreme number of people inhab- iting these islands, including Avomen and children. The great plenty of furs we met with here sufticiently indicated that these people haA'^e had 2 AD !!?99Bnai 18 ALASKA DIRECTORY. f ; i !!i ■A f; no intercourse whatever witli any civilized nation ; and I doubt not but we may justly claim the honor of adding these islands to the geography of this part of the coast. The ornaments seen among them were very few J and it is pr'^bable that their knives and spears have been obtained by war rather than traffic, as there seems to be a universal variance among the various tribes ; however, be all this as it may, they undoubt- edly approach much nearer to a state of savage brutality than any Indians we have seen on the coast. " The women distort tlie under lip in the same manner with those at Norfolk Sound,* (Sitka,) but with this difference, that here this wooden ornament (labret) seems to be worn by either sex indiscriminately, whereas at Norfolk Sound it is contined to those of superior rank." Queen Charlotte Island, according to the running survey made of its outer coast by Vancouver, in 1794, which must be taken as nearly correct, is about one hundred and sixty miles in length in a north-northwest and south-southeast direction. Its greatest breadth, at the north extremity, is about sixty miles, from which it gradually diminishes towards Capo St. James, its south extreme. Cape St. James is in latitude 51° 58' north, longitude 131° 2' west. From the cape some rocks and rocky islets extend between the directions of south-southeast and southeast by south, at the distance of about a league ; though Mr. Gray, in the Columbia, informed Vancouver that he had struck and received some material damage upon a sunken rock, which he represented as lying at a much greater distance, thougi' nearly in the same line of direction. The cape was so named by Mr. Dixon from the common circumstance of the saint's day on which it was first seen. About it the land is very moderately elevated ; but, like that on the northern part of the island, it rises gradually to rugged and imeven moiuitains, which occupy the center of the country, descending towards its extremities to a less height, and is of a more uniform appearance. Ibbertson's Sound, an inlet running to the northward, is placed thirty miles to the northward of Cai>e St. James in Dixon's chart, but he gives no particulars of it. The weather Avas foggy here during his cruise off the coast, but he had many interviews with the natives all along. Cape Henry, which is twenty-four leagues from Cape St. James, is in latitude 52° 53' north, longitude 132° 25'. It is a conspicuous project- ing cape, and forms the south point of a deep bay or somid, the shores of which are apparently much broken, to which Vancouver gave the name of Englefleld Bay, after his much-esteemed friend, Sir Henry Englefleld. Its north point of entrance, lying from Cape Henry north 27° west, at the distance of seven leagues, Avas named Point Buck ; which also forms the south point of entrance into a sound falling deep back to the eastAvard, named by Vancouver CartA\'right's Sound. Its north point high, ; purcliil See Dixon's Voyage, pp. 224, 225. )^-j^'i^- J ^!lillflf!iJ!fpi>*'\'i"mm^'^'*)^^ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 19 not but ography ere very )btiiined variance mdoubt- lan any those at } wooden ninately, Ilk." ide of its y correct, iwest and xtroinity, rds Capo 3 2' west, ilirectious »f about a er that he ken rock, igiv nearly VIr. Dixon it was first ke that on nd uneven ig towards ?arance. is placed chart, but during his natives all t. James, is 3US project- , the shores >r gave the Sir Henry lenry north uck; which leep back to i north point of entrance, Point Hunter, lies from Point Buck north 25° west, distant ten miles, and a little within this line of direction is an island near the northern shore. Kennell's Sound, so named by Captain Dixon, appears to be very extensive, and takes an easterly direction to the northward of Point Hunter, Its entrance, according to the observations of Vancouver, is in i atitude 5^° 28' north, longitude 132"^ 49' west. The land Jippears much broken, and the coast composed of steep mountainous precipices, divided from each other by water. Tliose gradually decrease in height towards the north extremity of the island, to which point the shore is more or less lined with scattered islets and rocks, at a small distance from the land. Hipp All ISLiiND lies north 32° west, fifteen and a half leagues from Point Hunter, and forms the northern limit of Kennell's Sound. It is a high, steep, cliffy hill, ending in a low projecting point, to the northeast of which lie some breakers, tliough at no great distance. The island was thus named by Dixon,* from its being inhabited by a tribe of Indians who had fortified themselves precisely in the manner of a hippah (e-pah) of the New Zealanders. It is in latitude 53° 33', longitude 133° 7'. Point Frederick lies north 17° west, 2G miles from Hippah Island, and is the west extremity of a projecting land, appearing like two islands; it is about twenty-two miles south 14° west from Point North, the northwest extreme of Queen Cliarlotte Island ; between it and Hii)pah Island is C lonard Bay, but we have no particulars of it. The northwest noint of the principal portion of these islands is named in the Spanish charts Cape Florida Blanca, and near to it is Cape Santa Margarita. Cloak Bay lies to the southward of North Island. It was so named by Dixon from tlie number of fur cloaks (principally of sea-otter skins) purchased from the natives here. Dixon says, " There appealed to be an excellent harbor, well landlocked, about a league ahead ; we found soundings from ten to twent-ftve fathoms water, over a ro^ky bottom ; but unluckily could not reach it, from the contrary wind and strong tide." (P. 200.) Langara Island forms the northwest extremity of the group, and North Point, its outer end, is in latitude 54° 20', longitude 133° 11'. The coast hero turns to the eastward, continuing so, irregularly, for about sixty-five miles, to Point Ymbisible, or Rose, having in the interval Port Masaredo, JMcIntyre's Bay, and Port Estrada. That these exist, and probably many other places of shelter, is the whole amount of our knowledge. Of the eastern side of the islands we have only the representations of Mr. Duncan and other early navigators. At thirty-five miles from the north- east point an extensive opening is marked, called TroUope's Biver. In some of the charts, as in that of Meares, this opening is made to communi- Voyage, p. 206. \ 20 ALASKA DIRECTORY. cate with Eennell's Sound on the woHteru shore, tliiis separating the land into two liiij^er i.shmds at letist. This is more tlum probable, from what has been said in the former part of the descrii)tion, and is exactly analogous to the formation of the Sitka Archipelago, the assumption of which was formed from similar facts, that the same individuals of the native tribes were seen by the traders, Dixon and others, on both sides of the group at ditt'erent times. On the coast southward of this there is a settlement called Skidegats. At four leagues from the south extremity of Cape St. James is Rose's Harbor, or Bay de Lujan of the Spaniards; it appears to be embarrassed with rocks, on its south side especially. Dixon's Channel is the strait sei)arating the Queen Charlotte Archi- pelago from the islands fronting the continental shore. As stated pre- viously, its northern entrauc<} was iirst seen by Perez, in 1774, and there- fore ought, perhaps, to be called by his name. Captain Douglas, in the Iphigenia, also was the first who passed through it, and he too has some claim to its designation, lint Captain Dixon, who was the principal oflQcer of these expeditions, has the priority of discovery, except that of the Spaniards, as above mentioned. The following observations on it are by Captain Douglas, its first ex- plorer : " Ships which arrive early on the coast, where they juust expect to meet with heavy gales of wind, w ill find it to their advantage to make the south end of Queeu Charlotte Island, and to enter the straits in the lati- tude of 52° and longitude of 13U°30', when they will find shelter either in the island or in the continent. It may also be added that, as ships which are returning iiom the north at a late period of the season are liable to be blown oil' the coast, it would be advisable for them to make Douglas Island and enter the straitsiu the latitude of 54° ;30', where they will find good anchorage, as well as inhabitants, on the north side of the island. On the continent they will have also the advantage of Port Meares and Sea Otter Sound, besides several other bays which have not yet been explored, between 50° and o4P north latitude.* CHAPTEE II. COAST OF ALASIO. FROM PORTLAND CANAL TO COOK'S INLET. The whole of the American coast north of latitude 54P 40' is comprised in the Territory of Alaska. The Eussian- American Company which had this Territory under col- onization was established under charter from the Emperor Paul, July 8, 1799; and the extensive territory in question was granted to them to * Douglas, in Meatus, p. S32. OCCU|i and tl latter tensio count and h tude c veninj had pi that n 530. ] by ]io,« jealous Englai forme* of laui before Notv able s Stikiuf cedure gating across Britisli after n couipai Hudsoi the coi from o- the am pany. The 1 by the I By its i I subject I lishme I in latiti I nortliw then n( the coa shall n I establis \ claime( [ shall b( [the Ian |oi)en ft ■^thesan .ffr-'Vi^- ALASKA DIRKCTORY. 21 he land 111 what exactly ptioii of s of the th sides there is s Kose's iriassed e Archi- itcd pre- id there- ls, ill the iias some piincipal )t that of 3 first ex- expect to make the 1 the lati- ter either , as ships easou are I to malio here they ide of the j of Port have not [LET. comprised under col- ul, July 8, them to occupy and hring under the dominion of Itnssia. The Knssian ('onii)iiny and the Hudson's liiiy Company wiM<' tlins l)roiiji;ht into collision, and the latter experienced considerable loss in their endeavors to prevent this ex- tension of Knssian power. Bnt in Jnsti(!e to Russia it nuist b(^ said that no country had a better claim to the territory ; for as early as 1741 Hehrin};, and his companion Tschirikojl', had touched on the (!ontinent in the lati- tud(^ of njP and 50° respe(;tively; the fornu'r seeinp: much of the inter- vening countries, too, on his return ; ami by ITd.'J many other adventurers had piMietrated eastward as far as Kodiak — and it must be remembered that no other nation claims to have penetrated further north than latitude 53°. In addition to this, Kussia had as gradually improved h(>r knowledge by possession as these discoveries advanced, and this, too, not from any Jealousy of other ])owers iiih'rfering, as was the case between Mi)ain, England, and Fran(;e, to the south. Thus the settlement at Kodiak was formed four years before Meares i)urchased, or said he did so, his tract of land in Nootka Sound, and Sitka was founded ten or twelve years bef(n-e Astoria was. Notwithstanding this, the Hudson's T>ay Company expended consider- able sums in the establishment of trading i)osts on the large river Stikine, in latitude ;"»(!° 20'. The Kussiaus resented by force this pro- cedui-e of the c()m])any, although Englaml claimed the privilege of navi- gating the rivers flowing from the interior of the continent to the Pacific, across the line of boundary established under the treaty of 1825. The British government recpiired redress for this infraction of the treaty; and, after negotiation between the two governments and the two <;hartered companies, it was agreed, in 1S30, that from the 1st of June, 1840, the Hudson's Bay Company should enjoy for ten years the exclusive use of the continent assigned to llussia by Mr. Canning in 1825, and extending from 54° 4(K north to Cape Spencer, near 58° west, in consideration of the annual payment of 2,000 otter slcins to the llussian-Ameri(uin Com- pany. The boundary between the Russian and English possessions was fixed by the convention agreed to by the respective powers, February 28, 1825. By its articles the trade is open to both nations in the Pacific; that subjects of other powers shall not land without permission at the estab- lishments of either respectively. The boundary is fixed as commencing in latitude 54° 40' north, between longitude 131° and 133° west, running northward along the Portland Canal as far as the parallel of 5'^° north; then northwestward along the summits of the mountains, parallel with the coast, to the meridian of 141° west, always provided that this line shall not exceed the distance of thirty miles from the coast; that no establishments shall be formed by either party within the limits of that , claimed by the other; that all streams or rivers in the Russian territory shall be opened for navigation to the British, either from the ocean or the land; that the trade of Sitka (except in spirituous li:encies, each controlled by the governor general. The inhabitants of the Kurile and Aleutian Islands, and those of the large island of Kodiak, were regarded as the immediate subjects of the Russian Company, in whose service every man between eighteen and tifty might be recpiired to pass at least three years. The natives of the country adjacent to Cook's Inlet and J'rince Wil- liam's Sound also paid a tax to the company, in fn ; and skins. The othor aborigines in the Russian territory were not ; >wed to trade with any people but those of the Russian company. In 1830 the number of Russians in tlu^ territory of the company was 730; of native subjects, 1,442 (Creoles; and about 11,000 aborigines ot the Kurile, Aleutian, and Kodiak Islands. At the time of Sir G-eorge Simpson's visit to Sitka, in 1842, the returns oT the trade, he says, were nearly as follows: 10,000 fur senls, 1,000 sea- otters, 12,000 beavers, 2,500 land-otters, foxes, martins, &c., and 20,000 sea-horse teeth. The character of the country, and its trade, «&c., will be gathered from the previous remarks and the subsequent descriptions. These are not always perfect. A portion of the interior sounds were explored and surveyed by Vancouver^ doubtless with his usual accuracy ; but of course this occurred before it was colonized by the Russian company. The Portland Canal, forming the boundary, has been described before. Cape Fox forms the northwest point of the approaches to it.* From Cape Fox the coast takes a rounding direction northwest by west four miles, and then north by west one-quarter west, near seven miles further, to a projecting jioint called Foggy Cape, the coast being very rocky and dangerous. North of Foggy Cape is a large b.iy filled with a labyrinth of small islands, rocks, and shoals, the north westernmost and largest being north by west three-quarters, west nearly a league Hw. ALASKA. DIRECTOKY. 23 east by south and wost by north, fivn hsif^uoH apart, form tho southoni entrance to the ('anal i\e Uevilhi Oigodo, of Heilor Caamano, or, an now cnlh'd, TonpiH NariowH. Four inih'H to tlie northwanl of thc^ island above mentioned is the entrance to the Boca de Quadra, \vhi,t first takes a direcition of northeast one- half east to a point seven miles within the entrance, whence the shores become less elevated and the iidct takes a south-soutlu ast direction, and is liere about two miles in width for a distance of four miles from the point. On the south shore above this are three inconsiderable rocky inlets, from the northeast of which tlu? main branch, about three-quarters of a mile wide, takes a direction of north-northeast one-(piarter east for four and a half leagues to its head, in latitude 55° 9', a snuill border of low land, thr(nij?h which How two rivulets. The sides of this canal are nearly straight, tlrm and compact, composed of high, steep, rocky cliffs covered with wood. Near the entrantoinber, 1793. He found it asnmll but convenient bay, secured, by several islets before it, from the wind in all directions. Great plenty of excellent Atater was found close at hand; the shores of moderate height, and covered Avith pine trees, berry bushes, and other shrubs. It is formed, as before stated, l)y a bay in the land, having several islets and rocks lying before it; witliin these, from the south point of its entrance, it takes a course of north-northwest one-half west, about half a league in length and three-quarters of a mile in breadth. In this space it affords good and secure anchorage, from four to eighteen fathoms of water, good holding grouiul. The comuuinication with the shore is easy, and wood and water nuiy be conveniently procured in the greatest abundance. Toward its head are two very siuig coves or basins, one of which is a continuation of the port, the other formed hy an indent ,in the land; the soundings are from six to nine fathoms, admitting of a navigable though narrow channel into tluMu. There are passages in several directions between the islets lying before the harbor, but they are not very safe, in consequen(re of several rocks between and about their shores, visible only at low tide. The best passage into Port Stewart is between the southernmost isle and the nuiin land; this is l)erfectly free from any obstrnetion, with soundings from four fathoms at the side to eleven fathoms in the middle. The eastern shore of the canal, southward of the point where it assumes a 80utl;erly direetiori, is much broken, and intersected with arms ; and opposite to Port Stewart is a cove near which Vancouver was attiicke'i by the Indians, in which two of his men were severely II 26 ALASKA DIRECTORY. wounded; hence he called it Traitor's Cove, and a point to the south, on which he landed, in latitude 55° 37'^ Escape Point. Cape Caamano is the south point of the peninsula, dividing the arm from Clarence Strait. It is in latitude 55° 29', longitude 131° 54'. It was so called after the Spanish commander who first delineated (though imiierfectly) these shores. On the oi)po8ite side of the channel, the westernmost point of the isl- and of Revilla Gigedo is called Point Higgins, after the then President of Chili, Senor Higgins de Vallenar, and tliis latter name is applied to the north point of the Island Gravina, south three-quarters west two miles from Point Higgins. From Point V^alleuar lies a ledge of rocks, parts of which are only visible at low tide. This ledge nearly joins on to two small islands oft' the point. Beaton's Island lies to the northward o,f Poinl Higgins, against the eastern coast. On its northwestern side are sev(iral dangerous rocks, lying half a mile from its shore ; and between it and the eastern shore are several snmller islands. Tongas Karbows, or the Canal de Eevilla Gigedo of Sefior Caamano, separates, as before stated, the island or rather islands of Gravina from the island of its iiauiG and the mainland. It runs south- east from between Points Higgins and Vallenar to between Foggy and Northumberland Capes, described previously. It was not explored by Vancouver, and is apparently badly represented in the Spanish chart. There is a good channel all the way through, but it requires a pilot, as there are some dangerous rocks. Duke of Clarence's Stra.t separates the Prince of Wales's Archi- pelago on the west from the islands we have been describing on the south, and from the Duke of York's and other islands northward, and is probably the opening distinguished in Caamano's chart as the " Estre- cho del Almirante Fuentes, 7 Entrada de liifostra Senor del Carmin."* Cape Northumberland is the southernmost pointx)f the Islands de Gravina. Off Cape Northumberland are several clusters of rocks, the bearings of the principal of which, from a tolerably high round island lyhig south from the cape, are as follows: The outermost to the north- west, northwest by west three and a half miles ; the south westerinnost, west-southwest four and a half miles ; the southernmost, Avhich are the most distant, south six and ;i half miles ; and the southeasternmost, southeast one-half east five miles distant. Within some of these the intermediate spaces are occupied by an immense number of rocks and breakers. The southernmost is a round lump of barren rock, always above water, with some breakers a short distance from its southeast side. Northeast, one-quart«r north, four and a half miles from this, lies the southeasternmost of these rocks ; it is low, flat, and double, always above water, but has much broken ground in its neighborhood. The southwesternmost of them bear from the south rock northwest Ave and * The Strait of De Fonta. See Fleurieu's lutrortuctiou to Marcbaud, &c. J*"" T ^•*- t^ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 27 i .-.^ "Y a half miles ; they are two small rocks, with mucli broken gronnd north and iiovthojist of them. Between these and the eastern sliore lie many dangerous rocks and breakers 5 but to the north w^ard of the south rock, and between it and these, two latter clusters, there did not appear any dangers. Point Percy lies northwest by west three-quarters west nine miles from Cape Northumberland. It is the western extremity of a long, nar- row cluster of low islands, extending about live miles in an east-north- east direction, nearly uniting to the eastern sliore, which is much brolcen north and south of them. Between this point and Cape Northumber- land are several clnsters of dangerous rocks, lying in all directions, a. considerable distance froin shore, with very irregular soundings, from four to three fathoms water ; but in the day-time they are sufficiently indicated by the weeds growing on them. Point Davison bears north one-half east four miles from Point Per- cy, and is in latitude ooo 0^'. Tiie coast then runs north towards an opening about two miles wide, Jippearing to divide the island of Gravina. In it are innumerable rocks and rocky islets. Northward of this the shores trend north- northwest five miles, and then about north by west six leagues, to Point VaUenar ; they arc nearly straight and compact, with a few rocks extending from the projecting points. Tlie shores of the Islands of Gravina are of moderate height, and covered with wood. The soutliern entrance to the Duke of Clarence's Strait lies, as before stated, between Cape Northumberland on tlie east and Cape de Chacon on the west. This latter cape is the southwestern i)oint of the Prince of Wales's Archipelago, and bears west-southwest from the former eight or nine leagues ott', latitude .54° 43', longitude l.'51o 5(5'. The first considerable opening on the western shore of the strait, north of Cape de Chacon, is Moira Sound ; a smaller one is just to the south of it. It takes a southwesterly direction, and appears to be divided into several branches, with some islands lying before its entrance. From this sound tlie western shore takes a direction nearly north and forms some bays. The largest of these, situated in latitude 55° 8', has in and before it several smaller islets; the outermost is by far the largest; and as it in umny points of view resembled a a\ edge, it was called Wedge Island. Ott' its south point lies a ledge of dangerous rocks. The land in the neighborhoo , two and a half leagues, brings you to Point Warde, in latitude 50^ ()'. The western shore is irregnlar in its direction, and much broken ; opposite the island it is six miles across, but here its shores are moderately ele\'ated, and cov'ered with the usual productions, and approach within a mile of each other. From Point Warde the coast takes a sharp turn northeast by east one-quarter east four miles, to a point where the channel divides into two branches: the easternmost extends eastward about three leagues, terminating in the usual -a , and named Bradfield Canal. The main branch extends in a iu)rth-northwest direction three leagues, to a point in latitude 50° 20'. This branch is here not more than three-quarters of a mile broad, with a small islaiul and two islets in its entrance. Here it again divides into two branches, but the north-northeast one is insignificant; the main channel to the Avest, before which lie several rocks and small islets, is not more than a quarter of a mile wide, extending irregularly to the northwest and south- west, forming a passage about a league long to Point Madau, where the i "-'1?*V.i, ^^51W!r ALASKA. DIRECTORY. 29 '■»!,.■.. channel is more spacions, and again takes two directions, one to tlie south-southwest, througli a broken insuhited region, the other stretch- ing to the north-northwest oue-half west, nearly two miles wide. In this direction it proceeds about sixteen miles to a very conspicuous point, in latitude 5G° 34', named Point Llighfleld, when the channel again appears to divide into two branches to the north-northwest and west. On Point Hightield the Hudson's Bay Company once had a fort. The apparent opening to the northward of Point Highfield is entirely closed by a shoal extending across it from Point Rothsay on the east or continental shore, and Point Blaquiere on the opposite side, on the edge of which are only six and nine feet Avater. To the south of this shoal, and in its inmiediate vicinity, are four small islands and two or three islets; oiie of the former upon the shoal, and the others at the distance of one and a half league from Point llighfleld, extend to the west and southwest of it. This shoal is very steep, and by its connection with the adjoining land it maybe said to make the latter form a portion of the continent. Just to the northward of this the river Stikine debouches on the east- ern shore, and near its mouth is Fort Wrangel. Fort ^\^^ANGEL was originally founded by the Russian- American Company, and had been transferred, in 1842, to the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, on a lease of ten years, together with the right of hunting and trading in the continental territories of that association as far up as Cross Sound. The establishment, of which the site had not been well selected, was situated on a peninsula barely large enough for the neces- sary buildings ; while the tide, by overflowing the isthmus at high water, rendered any artittcial extension of the premises almost impracticable j and the slime that was periodically deposited by the receding sea was aided by the putridity and fllth of the native villages in the neighbor- hood in oj)i)ressing the atmos]_)here with a most nauseous perfume. The harbor, moreover, was so narrow that a vessel of a hundred tons, instead of swinging at anchor, Avas under the necessity of nuioring stem and '■tern; and the supply of fresh water was brought by a wooden aqueduct, which the savages might at any time destroy, from a stream about two hundred yards distant. This state of affairs is now greatly imi)roved. The Stikine or Felly's River empties itself into the ocean by two chan- nels, respectively four and ten miles distant from the fort. One of them is navigable for canoes, while the other, though only in the season of high water, can be ascended by the steamer about thirty miles. The establishment is frequented by the Secatquouays, who occupy the mainland about the mouths of the river, and also the neighboring islands, and amount to about three thousand souls.* About four thou- sand or five thousand peox)le are, in all, dependent on Fort Wrangel for supplies. Most of these Indians make trading exciirsions into the in- *The Stickcen tribe, once the most powerful in Alaska, is reduced to about one thou- sand ; cause, diseases and contact with the vices of the whites. •\ 30 ALASKA DIRECTORY. tenor in order to obtain furs. Their grand emporium is a village, sixty miles distant from Dease's L; kc and one hundred and fifty from the sea, and thither they resort three or four times a year.* The north shore of the principal arm now takes a direction of south- west one-quarter south for fourteen miles, from the Stikine River to Point Howe. The shores are indented with small bays, with some small islets; the opposite, or south shore, is about a league distant; and, to the westward of Point Craig, lying from Point Hood southeast by east two leagues, the shore ap])ear8 firm and compact ; to the east of it, it is much broken and divided. From Point Howe the shore rounds in a west-northwest direction, to Point Alexander. This point is the easternmost of the entrance to Duncan's Canal, which stretches irregu- larly north and northwest to its termination in a shallow bay, bounded to the north by a low sandy flat, in latitude 50° 58'. The entrance is formed into two channels by an island ; the easternmost, called Wran- gel's Straits, is a narrow arm six miles long, with a rock nearly in the center of the entrance, and from the point where it diverges a nar.'ow arm extends four and a half miles north-northeast, to a low place pro- ducing very long grass. The channel i>asses through broken land in a southwest direction, with only three fathoms, to Point Hood, in lati- tude 50° 44'. Here it communicates with the more spacious western branch, about two miles wide, leading south on the western side of the island before mentioned. Above it Dunco'i's Canal stretches irregularly, having on it several islets and shallow bays, the latter principally on the southwest shore. Point Mitchell forms the southwest point of the canal, and is opposite the opening of the southern branch of the Diike of Clar- ence's Strait, the description of which we will resume from the point where Prince Ernest's Sound diverges from it. Point Onslow, as before mentioned, is the north point of the entrance of Prince Ernest's Sound ; and from this to Point Stanhope, the next projection on the eastern shore of the channel, the distance is fifteen miles. The interval forms a bay the shores of which appear much broken, and has some rocky islets near it. The coast then extends north three-quarters west about ten miles, to Point Harrington. Three miles and a half southward of Point Harrington is a small island, on the north side of which is an anchorage close under the shores of Duke of York's Island. It is tolerably well sheltered from the south and southeast winds, but the sovmdings are irregular and the bottom in parts is rocky. Point Nesbitt is in latitude 50° 15', and bears from Point Harrington northwest about two leagues, the interval forming the opening to an inlet bearing to the northeast, which possibly communicates with the channel to the east of the islands. Off Point Harrington, and nearly in mid-channel, is a cluster of low rocks; and also off Point Nesbitt, extending southward from the point, is a ledge; these seem very dan- gerous, as most of them are only visible at low water. The western ' 6"t George Simpson, vol. i, pp. 209, 210. '*»'. ,-H«" / i^ljfflytlpifififlj^w.'iM^i'^F ALASKA DIRECTORY. 31 shore of the strait is moderately elevated, of an uneven surface, and very much divided by water. The soundings in this part are very irregular, from ten to thirty fathoms, and in some places rocky bottom. Point Nesbitt is very high. Bushy Island, which lies in the channel to the northward of Point Nesbitt, is about two miles long, having from its shores, on both sides, some detached rocks, but admitting between it and the eastern shore a navigable channel. From the northwest side of this island lies also a chain of small islets, extending northward to the entrance of this olden- ing, which is between Point Macnamara on the east and Point Colpoys on on the west ; this bears west, one and a half leagues from the former. Here the channel enters from the northeastward, as before described, and bears to the westward and south-southwest to the ocean. Point Mitchell, on the southwest side of the entrance to Duncan's Canal, is the point on the north shore opposite to Point Colpoys, and is eight miles distant. The northern shore of this branch of the strait extends a little to the southward of west to Point Barrie, a distance of eighteen miles. In that space are innumerable rocks : and nearly nudway between the two points there is a large bay, about four miles wide at the entrance, and the same depth; there are two or three islets and many rocks in it. The southern shore, which forms the north coast of the Prince of Wales's Archipelago, and the distance between Point Colpoys and Point Baker, its east and west extreme, is seventeen miles. Just to the southwestward Of Point Baker is an excellent harbor. Port Protection, which was a haven which afforded Vancouver an asylum when he little expected it, amidst impending dangers, in September, 1793. Port Protection will be most readily found by attending to the following directions: It is situated at the northwest extremity of the Prince of Wales's Archipelago; its southern extreme comprises the base of a very remarkable barren ])eaked mountain, named Mount Calder. This is conspicuous in many i)oints of view, not from its elevation, when compared to the mountains on the neighboring continent, but from its height above the rest of the country in its immediate vicinity, and from its being visible in various directions at a great distance. Point Baker, in latitude 50° 20' 30", longitude 133° 36', on an islet close to the shore, forms the northeast point of entraiice, from whence the opposite point lies south-southwest one-half west three-quarters of a mile distant; the channel is good, and free to enter, yet there is one lurking rock, visible only at low tide, lying in a direction from Point Baker south by east one- quarter east three cables' length distant. It is indicated by weeds, «and is clear all around. There is also an irregular bank north of Point Baker, with from fifteen to thirty-two fathoms ; this, with the meeting of the tides around the Prince of Wales's Archipelago, causes an agitation or race, especially at the flood tide, but there is no danger; the depth is very great. • The harbor takes a general ilirection from its entrance southeast by 32 ALASKA DIRECTORY. south one-qnartcr south for two and a quarter miles, and its navigable extent is from Ave to three cables' length in width, beyond which it termi- nates in small shallow coves. The depth is rather irregular, from thirty to fifty fathoms 5 the shores are in most places steep and rocky, and are covered with an imiienetrable fqrest of pine and other trees. They afford several streams of fresh water; some flsh and fruit were found, as also wild fowl. The tides appear to be irregular, but come from the south, and it is high w^ater seven hours fortj' minuter after the moon l)asse8 the meridian. Points Baker and Barrie form, as before stated, the western extremes of the branch of the Duke of Clarence's Strait, which trends east and west. Westward of this the strait takes a southerly direction to the Pacific, and the western shore of this portion is formed by the southern end of an island which is singularly intersected by deep bays and inlets, and the shores of which are bestrewed with innumerable ro(5ks. Although this is an island, yet to the seaman it cannot be considered so, because the narrow channel separating it from the main land north of Point Barrie is so full of rocks and dangers that it certainly is not navigable. The western shore of the strait is distant from Point Barrie in a west direction, but between is Conclusion Island, alout three and a half miles long north^zest and southeast, with some rocks off its shores, and lying in a large bay full of an infinite number of rocks, very dangerous even for boats ; consequently it is unimportant. Between Point Baker and Conclusion Island, distant from the former four miles, is a smaller island, low, and about a. mile long north and south, with a ledge of very dangerous rocks extending from its south point. Off the western shore of the strait, abreast of this latter island, is another small island one and a half miles long, and having two smaller ones lying off its south point. From hence the coast takes an irregular direction about south by east to a point in latitude 5G° 17', forming the northeast point of entrance into Port Beauclerc. Port Beauclerc is of easy access and egi'css, free from every obstruction but such as are suflftciently evident to be avoided. The opposite point of entrance lies west two miles distant; it extends north- west four and a half miles, and southwest two miles, from the points of entrance. Nearly in the middle is a small island and some rocky islets, and a rocky islet with some rocks before its entrance, lying south southeast one-quarter east one mile from the northeast point of the entrance. The surrounding shores are in general moderately elevated, well covered with wood, and water is very easily to be iirocured. as the communication with the land is sufficiently commodious. PoiN r Amelius lies southeast by south one-quarter south about a league from the entrance of Port Beauclerc, and south of it the coast forms a bay about a league^to the westward, and thence it takes a more southerly direction, about seven miles, to Point St. Albans, which is a low rocky V I.WJUMII ffjtm <». )il!'wnp»-^ ! ALASKA DIRECTORJ'. 33 point, ill latitude 50'^ 7', longitude 133° 55'. (Vancouver,* vol. ii, page 414.) Ott' this portion of the coast islets, rocks, and breakers extend about a league. About bliree miles north of the point is a snug boat cove. Affleck's Canal extends to the north by west fifteen miles, imme- diately to the westward of Point St. Albans. Its eastern shore has rocks oft" it for the first league and a half, and then becomes straight and compact to its termination in some low laud, through which fiow some streams of fresh water. The western shore, which is from half a mile to two miles from that opposite, is indented with three largo bays in its southern part. The eastern sides of the canal are mountainous, but not so steep as the more interior country. The western side is moder- ately elevated, of uneven surface, and is covered with dwarf pine and other trees. Cape Decision is a very conspicuous promontory, extending in a south direction into the ocean, and forms the southernmost point of the island we hav^ been describing; it is in latitude 50° 2', longitude 134° 3'. Southward of the cape arc son^ic islands; the largest, Coronation Island, is about seven leagues in circuiit. From the northeast point of this island, which bears south by east four miles from Cape Decision, is a range of rockj- islets extending to the nortli, within half a league from the main land, the space between them and the cape appearing free from interru])tiou. (Jape Pole is the i)romoutory on the western shore of the Prince of Wales's Archipelago, which forms, with Cape Decision, the entrance to the Duke of Clarence's Strait. They bear west by south one-half south, and east by north one-half north, eleven miles asunder. Off Cape Pole is Warren's Island; it is high, and between it and the cape many lurking rocks were observed. To the southward of it also are three clusters of very dangerous rocks, the first lying from its southwest point south by east one quarter east three and one-half miles distant; the second, south six miles, and a small islet lying from them southeast at half a league dis- tant ; and the third cluster lies off the southeast point of the island, which from its northwest point lies southeast three-quarters east four miles, from whence those rocks lie in a direction southeast by south one- quarter south, about four miles distant. Nearly in mid-channel, between AYarreu's and Coronation islands, there was no bottom at one hundred and twenty fii thorns. Although the navigation of Clarence's Strait may be free from inter- ruption, yet it ought not to be prosecuted without much circumspection. Of tli,e coast of the Prince of Wales's Archipelago we know but very little, and that little is chiefly comprised in the Spanish charts before alluded to, and a portion of it in the atlas accompanying the voyage of La Perouse. ■ Cape Addington, which appears to be the next most remarkable promontory to the south of Cape Pole, was so named by Vancouver, 3 AD ^^*i.jU*iHi ^ - iVRW^mfiPiifjfiiif 34 ALASKA DIRECTORY. after the speaker of the House of Commons. It is very conspicuous, and, accordiufTf to Vancouver, is in hititnde 55° 27', longitude 133° 48'. Port JJuoareli, a very extensive inland sea, lies at the back of and to the southward of Cape Addington. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra, the two Spanish njivigators, of whom nu'ution has been made previously. They anchored here on August 10, 1775, and named it Puerto del Baylio liucareli, in honor of the Mexican viceroy. It is formed by several islands, but the account of the Spaniards' visit, as given by Maurelle, the pilot, is so vague that no description can be drawn from it. They here took possession, in the name of his Catholic Majesty, of all the country they saw and allihey did not see. They saw no inhab. itants, though the remains of a destroyed hut, ami some paths here and there, indicated that it was, or had been, inhabited. .Cape San Bartolom is the southwest point of the entrance of this inland sea, and is in latitude 55° 12^' longitude 133° 36', and, according to the charts, is the south extremity of a long narrow peninsula, extend- ing in a southerly direction, with some islets ott' it. Fi'bm hence the southwest coast of the archipelago extends to the sonth-southeast and east to Cape Chacon, at the entrance of Clarence's Strait. At the south end of the island is the extensive bay called Port Cordova in the Spanish charts. The Easa Isle, or the Wolf Rock, lying off the mouth of Port Bucareli, is one of the most dangerous impediments to navigation on the exterior coast, awd from these circumstances it obtained from Van- couver its latter name. It is a very low, flat, rocky islet, surrounded by rocks and breakers that extend some distance from it ; it lies fourteen miles south 21° east from Cape St. Bartolom, twelve miles from the near- est point of the contiguous shore, and three leagues north 11° east from San Carlos Island. It was seen by the Spaniards in 1775, who called it Rasa, or low. San Carlos is a small high island ; its south point is in latitude 54° 48', longitude 133° 32'. The channel between it and the Wolf Rock ap- I)ears to be free from interruption, and was passed safely by Captain Douglas. It was discovered by Ayala and Quadra, in August, 1775, and by La Perouse named San Carlos Island. It is called Douglas Island by Meares and others, ami Forrester's Island by Dixon and Van- couver, but its real name must be that lirst applied by the Spaniards. It was seen by Douglas, in the Iphigenia, August 13, 1788. He says it is very high, covered with verdure, and visible sixteen or seventeen leagues oft". We now return to the northward. Between Cape Decision and Cape Ommaney, which latter is in latitude .56° 10', longitude 134° 33^', and sixteen miles distant from the former, is Christian's Sound, and this forms the southern entrance to a very extensive island navigation, extending through upwards of 3° of lati- tude, separating a series of large island:, from the continent of America. o \. T ALASKA DIRECTORY. 35 The principal of those are Chatham's Strait, h'ading iinnicdiatoly from Christian's Sound to th«> ncntliward; IMincc FrecUunk's Sound, divorjuf infif eastward from it; and Stephens's Tassaine, wliieh branehes northward out of the hitter. Tiiese principal arms insulate the Sitka Islands, Admiralty Island, and numerous subordinate islands, which will be described in due .order, commeucius with the continental shores. Christian's Sound is tlie passaj^e between Cape Omnmney ane Decision the coas^t trends north-northwest three-quarters west three leagues, and then north by west the same distance, to the north point of Port Malmesbury. This is about two leaj^ues deep northeast and then south-southeast, and has some islets and rocks on it; notwithstandinjjf which it affords very excellent shelter in from seventeen to thirty-four and twelve fathoms water, and is ct)nveniently situated towards the ocean. The north point, called Point Harris, is rendered very renuirkable by its being- a project- ing point, on which is a singi^lo hill, appearing from many points of view like an island, Avith an islet and some rocks extending near a mile to the southwest of it. Seven miles further northward is the south point of a large bay full of innumerable islets and rocks, with a great number of very small branches in various directions. Its northwest point of entrance, Point Ellis, is in latitude 50° 'M', longitude l.'i4° 15'. This also forms the southeast point of another small inlet, ecpially intricate, and as much incommoded with islets and rocks. Point Sullivan, which is the next point in the main inlet to the northA\^rd, is in latitude 50o 38'; and east of this, also, is an inlet full of rocks and islets. From Point Sullivan the shores to the northAvard are less rocky, and become firm and compact, taking a dire(!tion of north three-quarters Avest thir- teen miles, to Point Kingsmill, which is conspicuous. Point Kingsmill is the southwest point of Prince Frederick's Sound, the opposite point of entrance being Point Gardner, the southwest extreme of Admiralty Island. This sound extends to the northeast and east. Prince Frederick's Sound. — From Point Kingsmill to Point Corn- wallis the bearing and distance arc northv^ast one-quarter east six and a half miles, the S])ace between being occupied by two bays, each taking a southeasterly direction, a mile or a mile and a half wide, and four or five miles deep, and containing mariy islets and dangerous rocks. To the eastward of Point Cornwallis is Kiku or Kekou Archipelago, «and to the southward of the islands is Port Camden, the west shore of whicli trends first east-southeast nine miles, and then south-southeast one-quarter east for seven and a half miles further. From this a branch about half a league Avide runs in a south- southwest direction, eight miles, to withm two miles of the head of the inlet northeast of Point Ellis, previously mentioned. The shores of this branch of Port Camden are pretty free from islets and rocks, but those to the northwest of it are lined with them, and render the approaching of it extremely dangerous. From 36 ALASKA DIRECTORY. I th(i point wlience this branch divprjfos to tho aonth, another i^xtonds to the, oast Honthcast, calU'd Ki'kou Straits, and then sonthvvard as far as ttit! nortliorn part of (Ihiront'e's Mtrait, liavinj;: I'oint IJarric and Conchi- fiion Island at its south extreme. Tliere is a passage througli lor tit'tceii feet, but it is full of rocks, islets, and shoals. The peninsula, \vhioh is eonneet(Ml with the more eastern land by the lastinentioned narrow isthmus, is by no mejins so high or mountainous as the laiul eoni|)osing the adja<*ent eouutries on \\w opi)osite or north- eastern side of the sound, which at no great distaiu;e consists of very lofty, rugged, dreary, barren mountains, covered Avith ice and snow; but the land composing the i)eninsula is chiefly of moderate height, aiul producing a noble forest of large and stately i)ine trees, of clean and straight growth, anu)ng which were a few berry-bushes aiul some ahhirs. Point Macartney forms the northeast point of Kekou Bay and Arcliipelago. It is a large, rounding, though not lofty promontory, in which are several small open bays, and near it several detached rocks. From hence the shore trends north by east one-half east about a league, where the width of the sound is about seven miles across, in a north- west direction, to Point Nepean. From this station north-northcuist one half east, four aiul a half miles distant, lie^ Povorotny Island, with patches of i k from this point reaching nearly to its shores, but a good channel betwet,-. The promontory stu. ^es a rounding direction ~^:out east-northeast five miles further, from whence the southern shore of the sound extends east by south one-half south seventeen miles to the west point of a snmll cove, Perenosnaia Creek, the only oi)ening in the shore from Point Macartney 5 but off the littl'^ projecting points between this cove and that point are detached rocks 1^ ingat no great distance from the shore. The cove extends southeae^ \-y south about a league, forming a narrow isthmus, two miles acro:'^^; irom the head of Duncan's Canal, another striking instance of the extraordinary insular state of this region. The cove is a good harbor. Point Cardner, as before mentioned, forms the northwest point of the entrance to Prince Frederick's Sound. To the eastward of Point Gardner are two anchorages, both bad in southeast weat]ier,but good in northerly gales. The one nearest the point is called Surprise Harbor, and the eastern one Murder Cove, from the fact that some traders were murdered here by Kake Indians. Off it, in a south-southeast direction, lie some rocks and a small island, called Tasha IslaLd ; the former at the distance of three-(piarters of a mile, and the latter at that of three miles. The coast hence rounds irregularly to Point Townsend, a distance of nine miles; off the projecting points are some rocks. Six and a half miles east-northeast from tuis is Point Nepean, situated in latitude 57° 10', longitude 134° 5'. It is a higli, steep, bluff', rocky point, and off it lies a ledge of rocks about half a mile. From this the coast takes a more %^^ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 87 %»•■» northerly (UNMHon, or northeaat one-half north ten and a half miles, to I'oint I'ybusj the coast between is much indented with sniidl bays and vast nund»ers of islets and rocks, both above and beneath the water. It is in general but moderately eh \ated; and althouj^h it is eoujposed of a ro<'ky substance, produces a very tine forcs*^, chiftiy of pine timbers. JSorthward of this is a larj^e channel, called Ste[>hens\s Tassaj^e; I'rince Frederick's JSouiul contituies to the eastward and southeastward. Cape Fansiiaw, which is the i)oint of the main land opposite, and forminj? the aufjfle at which the two channels divcrj^e, is low and pro- jecting", but very conspicuotis, in latitude ."iT^ 11', l()ngittul(; VS,P -r>.y. The branch is hero eight miles wide, and its northern shove takes a course east-southeast sixteen miles, to a low, narrow point of land two and a half "miles long, and half a mile broad, stretching to the south, called Point Vandei)ut. Here the breadth of the branch decreases to three and a half miles, in a south direction, to a steep blurt' point; from this part the braiu;h tak(;s a more southerly course. South of Point Vande- I)ut a shoal extends about a mile, and on its east side a small bay is formed, from whence the eastern shore trends southeast by south seven miles to another point, off which a shoal extends about three-quarters of a mile. The shore here is a small extent of tlat laud, lying immediately before the lofty mountains, which rise abruptly to a prodigious height immediately behind the border. A few miles to the south of this margin the nu)untaina extended to the water-side, when a part of them presented au uncommonly awful appearance, rising with an inclination towards the water to a vast height, loaded with an immense quantity of ice and snow, and overhanging their base, which seemed insufticient to bear the ponderous fabric it sustained, and rendei'ed tlie view of the passage beneath it horribly magnificent. There is a very large glacier here. At about eighteen miles south of this the head of the inlet or Souchin Channel appears, closed by a beach extending all around the head of it. At high water this becomes a shallow bank, with an island on it. Be- yond it is the mouth of the Stikine Eiver. It was observed by Mr. Whidbty, during Vancouver's survey, that in no one instance, during his researches, either in the several branches of Prince William's Sound, in those extending from Cross Sound, or in the numerous branches about Admiralty Island, did he find any immense bodies of ice on the islands ; all those which he had seen on shore were in the guUeys or valleys of the connected chain ex lofty mountains so frequently mentioned, and which chiefly constitute the continental shore from Cook's Iidet to Prince Frederick's Sound ; though, in different places, these mountains are at different distances from the sea-side. He likewise observes that all the islands or groups of islands were land of a moderate height when compared with the stupendous mountains which compose the continental boundary, and were still seen to continue in a southeast direction from this shallow passage, whilst the land to iij|[i,wjyjiflM.pnpptpppn!?i^Pi^^ 38 ALASKA DIRECTORY. i. the M'estward of the passage assumed a more moderate height, was free from snow, and ])roduced a forest of k>ft,y pine trees.* * Stephens's Passage, whicli is over ninety-five miles in length, opens into Prince Frederick's Sound, between Point Pybus and Cape Fanshaw, whieh are sixteen miles asunder. It is a good, clear channel all the way. North by ea.st, six and one-half miles from Capo Fanshaw, is Port Houghton. There are- many rocks on the shore between. The .south ])oint of the harbor is Point Walpole, near which are some islets and sunken rocks. Its north point is Point Hobart, north by west a league from the other, and from which extends a bank of sand, a little distance from the shore, but leaving a clear passage between it and the islets into the port. Findlay reports that it extends east-southeast five or six miles, a^idis bounded by lofty mountains, forming the shores of a snug harbor, with soundings of ten to six fathoms a considerable distance from the shore, sand and muddy bottom; but Commander Meade entered the port at night, in the United States steamship Saginaw, and could find nothing less than eighty fathoms close to the rocks. He. was forced to go out again, at the risk of being wrecked among the rocks with which he was surrounded. From Point Hobart to Point Wii.uham the bearing and distance are north-northwest one-quarter west twelve and one-half miles. Between are several islets, iu various directions. Opposite to Point Windham is Point Hugh, and here perhaps it may be considered that StepheUvS's Passage more properly begins. Beyond Point Hugh is Point Gambier, bearing south-southwest one- half west five miles from it ; and this latter is northeast one-quarter north six miles from Point I'ybus, previously mentioned. Between the two former points is the entrance to Seymour's Canal, which extends northwest by north twenty-nine miles from Point Hugh to its head, in latitude 57° 51'.t At its entrance ifc is from two miles to three miles wide, which gradually increases towards its head to two leagues. At its termination is a small brook of fresh AVi.^er. South of this the cen- ter of the inlet is occupied by two islantis, together about eight miles long, having a great number of islets on their northeast sides. The adjacent country is moderately high, and covered with timber of large growth, excepting towards Point Hugh, which is a lofty rocky prom- ontory, from w^hence extends a ledge of rocks on which the sea breaks -with considerable force. This point forms the south extreme of a long, narrow stri[) of land dividing Seymour's Canal from Stephens's Passage. The southwest cx)astof this i^assage, whieh is liere about five miles in breadth, is nearly straight, compact, and free from rocks or other interrui>tions uj) to Grand Island, a high, round island, lying in the middle of the channel, iu latitude 58° 3', from which the western shore exteiuls north by west * Vancouver, vol. iii, pp. 282, 283. t The Kodtziiiilioo Iii«liaiiH lopoit tlmt there in a caiioc )>nH8nge at high water from Seymour Channel to Kootzniihoo Arehipelago. ^ i ALASKA. DIRECTORY. 39 It f eiglit miles to Point Ardeu, wliert the branch divides into three arms, the principal one directed to tlie westward. The eastern sliore of the jjassage, np to this part, is composed of a compact range of stapendons mountains, chiefly barren, and covered with ice and snow, but aftbrdiug some inlets. From Point Windham, on the sou<}h, to Point Astley, thirteen miles to the ninth, the shores are very rocky, and contain many spiall, open coves. Tlie latter is the south point of a deep bay, about four miles wide, named llolkham Bay, on which are three small islands, to the westernmost of which a shallow bank extends from each side of the bay. Much floating ice was seen within the islands. From Point Coke, its north point, in a direction about west-northwest two and one-half miles, are the Medway Islands, which are two small rocky islets, nearly in the middle of the branch ; and the eastern shore trends from it northwest one-half west nine or ten miles tc Point Anmer, the south point of Port Snettisham. This harbor first extends about a league from its entrance iji a northeast direction, where on each side the shores form an extensive cove, termin- ated by a sandy beach, with a fine stream of fresh water. On the north- west side of the entrance (Point Styleman) is a small cove, on which there is also a run of water, with an islet lying before it. The shores are high and steej), and produce very few trees. From the latter point, which is in latitude 57° 53', longitude 13;P 41)', the eastern shore trends about northwest twelve miles towards the high round island before mentioned. This part is much indented with small bays. Ta CO*, or Takou, which was a Hudson's Bay Company's establishment, is on a little harbor almost land-locked by mountains, being partially exposed only to the southeast. One of the hills, near the fort, teriuinates in the form of a ranoe, which serves as a barometer. A slnoud of fog indicates rain; but the clear vision of the canoe itself is a sign of fair weather. The fort was very complete, with good houses, lofty pickets, and strong bastions. The establishment was maintained chiefly on the flesh of the cheveril, which is very fat, and has an excellent flavor. Some of these deer weigh as much as one hundi'ed and fifty pounds each, and they are 80 numerous that Takou had in 1812 sent to market twelve hundred of their skins, being the handsome averiige of a deer a week for every inmate of the place, the post being conducted by Dr. Kennedy, with an asvsistant and twenty-two meii. But extravagance in eating venison was here a very lucrative business; for the hide, after paying freight and charges, yielded in London a])iofit on the ])rime c«ist of the whole animal. Seven tribes, thiee.of them living on islands and four on the main land, ^ isited Takou. They musteretl about four thousand souls, and were delighted to have the English settle among them, and on this ground *Tak^)U harbor is a fow iiiiloM hi tho wiintlnvanl and «m8twaril of Ovaiwl Isluiul. The chuuuol runs to tlie eastward of Grand iMlaud in jjoiny north to Talcou River. 40 ALASKA DIRECTORY. m fl» .1 m were jealous of other iDdians. The big-horn sheep and mountain goat were very numerous in the neighborhood. In 1809 the fort is in ruins, and the settlement deserted. The River Takou, falling into the inlet to which it gives its name, according to Mr. Douglas, who ascended it about thirty-five miles, pur- sues a serpentine course between stupendous mountains, which, with the exception of a few points of alluvial soil, rise abruptly from the water's edge. In spite of the rapidity of the current, the savages of the coast ascend it one hundred miles in canoes, and thence trudge away on foot the same distance to an inland mart, where they drive a profitable busi- ness, as middlemen, with the neighboring tribes. Besides facilitating this traffic, the establishment of the fort has done much to extinguish a traflic of a very difl:'ereut t-endency. Though some of the skitis ^uwiously found their way from this neighborhood to t^itka and Sl-S'io most of them used to be devoted to the purchasing of slaves fro^ .»-; Vidians of Kygarnie and Hood's Bay (Kootznahoo.*) Opposite to Point Ardeu, on the western shore, is the mouth of Takou Inlet, leading to the northeast from Stephens's Passage. Its west point of entrance is Point Salisbury, near which is a village, and it extends about north by east thirteen miles, when the shores spread to east and west, and form a basin about a league broad and two leagues across, northwest and southeast, with a small island (River Island) lying nearly at its northeast extremity. From the shores of this basin a comjuict body of ice extended some distance nearly all round at the time of Van- couver's visit; and the adjacent region is composed of a closely united continuation of the lofty range of frozen mountains, whose sides, almost perpendi<;ular, were formed entirely of rock, excepting close to V water-side, where a few scattered dwarf pine trees find sufticient or to vegetate on : above these the mountains were wrapped in undissolving ice and snow. From the rugged gullies in their sides were projected immense bodies of ice, that reached perpendicularly to the surface of the water in the basin, which admitted of no landing place for the boats, but exhibited as dreary and inhospitable an aspect as the imagination ciin l>ossibly suggest. The rise and fall of tide here were very considerabl'. , appearing to be upwards of eighteen feet. From Point Ardeu Stephens's Passjvge takes a general course of -^ ^st three-quarters north, and is about a league in width. About five K ^ -'.r •> along the south shore is Point Young, tVn'ming the east point of Ai harbor, with nn island (Skull Island) and rock in its entrance and anoth.'r at the bottom of Auke Bay. Here the width of the arm is decreased to half a league, and the south shore stretclies ' . f^rth w .-s) one-quarter nc. ch seven miles to a cove with an islet lying near it. 'Jo; i.i horn this cove, one and a hfilf leagues distant, is the west ]>oint of Douglas Island, so named after the Bishop of Salisbury, and forms the n( rth side of this portion of the passage. It is about twenty miles long, and six broad in the middle, * Sir George Siinpsoii, vol. i, pp. 214-21G. I 1 f i m ALASKA DIRECTORY. 41 J. ^st narrowing towards each end, and separated from tlie continent by a nar- row channel, rendered nearly always impassable from its being filled with ice — an evidence of the partial nature of this jihenomenon, for the other arms w^ere free from this! obstruction. To the northwe.st of this part are Shelter Islands, between which and Admiralty Island is a rocky and intricate passage, dangerons for the navigation of sailing craft, but navigable by steam vessels. The channel beyond the northwest point of Douglavs's Island is divided into two branches by Shelter Island, a very narrow island, about four and a half miles long and half a mile broad. The passage on its northeast side requires a pilot, Avithout which it may be considered as next to impassable for shipping, by reason* of the rocks and islets at the south- east end of it. The other channel is safe for steamers.* Opposite the north end of the above island is Point lietreat, the north- ernmost point of Admiralty Island; it is in latitude 58° 24', longitude 134° 59'. About a league southward from Point Eetreat, in the southern channel, is a deep bay — Barlow's Cove — which, with the narrow island lying before it, forms a very snug harbor, of good access by the passage round to the north of Point Eetreat, as the rocky part of the channel lies to the southeast of it To the west of Point Retreat and Admiral y Island is that extensive branch named by Vancouver, after the nobleman, Chat- ham's Strait, to the south opening of which we will now return. Chatham's Strait. — Cape Decision, the southeast point of entrance, has been before described. It was so named by Vancouver, from his having so far decided that the great openings stated to exist by De Fonte, De Fuea, and others did not out north three-quarters west twenty -two miles to Hood's Bay, whicli *,The Uiiitod States Steamer Saj^iiiaw (March, 18(59) pa«8e«l through without piU)t, aud without any trouble. The channel seems perfectly clear, except at the east i^art of Bar- low's Cove. ^i- 42 ALASKA DIRECTORY. i is about one and a half league across to Kootznahoo Head, and lias some islands nearly in its center. In the intermediate distance are two smaller bays, off the points of each of which islets and rocks lie at a little distance. Point Parker is nine miles north three-quarters west from Kootz- nahoo Head; the shores are high. In Kootznahoo Inlets Vancouver's party found some cultivation of a species of tobacco, the only instance they had met with among the Northwest American Indians. Beyond this, still following the same direction for thirty miles, is Point Marsden, off which are some rocks. The land is very moderately elevated, cov- ered with fine timber, chiefly of the pine kind, and terminating at the water side , ' • Iternate steep rocky cliffs and small sandy bays, with a few detaCii /cks and islets lying near it. Hence to Point Retreat, which is the noiih extremity of Admiralty Island before mentioned, the distance is about sixteen miles, the coast being n(!'arly in the same direc- tion and of the same character as that more to the south. Admiralty ISLAND.~The shores of Admiralty Island, which have thus been described, are about sixty leagues in circuit. With the excep- tion of its northwest and southeast parts, they are very bold, affording numy convenient bays likely to admit of safe anchorage, with line streams of fresh water flowing into them, and presenting an aspect very different from that of the adjacent continent, as the island in general, except at its northwest end, is moderately elevated, and produces an unin- terrupted forest of very fine timber trees, chiefly of the pine tribe; whilst the shores of the continent bounded by a continuation of those lofty frozen mountains Avhich extend southeastward froni Mount Fairweather rise abrui)tly from the water side, covered with perpetual snow, whilst their sides are broken into deep ravines or valleys, tilled Avith immense mountains of ice; notwithstanding that the island seems to be composed of a rocky substance covered with little soil, and that chiefly consisting of vegetables in an imperfect state of dissolution, yet it produces timber which was considered by Mr. Whidbey to be superior to any he had before noticed on this side of America. The ocean hereabouts, too, encroaches most rapidly on the low land. The stumps of trees in various stages of decay, still standing erect, are to be found below high-water mark, and many of the low shores, now covered with the sea, pioduced, at no very distant period, tall and stately timber. In Kootznahoo Arch- ipelfigo are very extensive coal-fields. Lynn Channel. — In latitude 58° 35' a po'nt projects from the west shore of Lynn Channel, which bears north-northwest from Point lietreat, and north b;^ west from Point Couverdeu, the extremity of a peninsula separating the canal from Chatham Strait. Both sides of the arm are bounded by lofty, stupendous mountains, covered with perpetual ice and snow, whilst the shores in the neighborhood appear to be composed of cliffs of very fine slate, interspersed with beaches of paving-stone; bhe channel continues to be about five miles wide, and the western shore ^J n I ALASKA DIRECTOEY. 4a N^ ^ ?► I straight and compact. In latitude 58° 54' is Sullivan's Rock, about two miles from the west shore. Another islet lies to the north, between it and the south point of Sullivan's Island, five miles long and one broad, lying along the western shore, and forming a channel about a mile wide, having at its southern entrance shoals that extend nearly from side to si'.'" Beyond this the arm diverges into two branches, Tchillkat to the westward and false Tchillkat to the eastward, the western one ter- minating in its navigable part in latitude 59° 12'. At its head, accord- ing to Lisiansky's chart, is the river and village of Tchillkat. There are some islets and rocks in mid-channel, and above these the water is perfectly fresh. AboA'e the shoal limiting the navigation, the arm extends half a league, and through a small opening a rapid stream of fresh water rushes over the shoal. The eastern side of this portion of the arm is low, and indented into small bays and coves, extending south- east one-half south four and a half leagues to Seduction Point, from off which lies a range of small islands about four miles in a south direction. The southernmost is a flat barren rock, but on the other trees were pro- duced. This peninsula is a narrow strip of low land, one or two miles across, separating the w^estern from the eastern arm, which extends north by west three-quarters west, about eleven miles, and thence wijids in a westerly direction about three miles further, where it terminates in low laud, formed immediately at the foot of high stupendous mountains, broken into deep gullies, and loaded with perpetual ice and snoAv. The eastern shore of the inlet trends in a compact manner to Point Sherman, and from thence to Point St. Mary's, in latitude 58° 43J', forming the north point of a bay called Berner's Bay, about four miles across in a south-southeast direction, and about Ave miles deep to the north-north- east. From its south part. Point Bridget, the continental shore takes a direction south-southeast one-quarter east, and at eight miles lies Rals- ton Island, with some rocks and islets about it. Beyond this navigation is difficult, even for boats, being incommoded with numberless islets and rocks. Beyond these islets, to the south westward, lies Lincoln Island, and from the shore of the main laud a shallow bank extends nearly half a league. The large island is about six miles long and two broad, and opposite to its southwest point is Point Retreat, the west side of the entrance to Stephens's Passage. Southwest of Lincoln Island is Hump Island. Lynn Channel was first made known and surveyed by Vancouver's party, under Mr. AVhidbey, in July, 1794, and was named by the com- mander after his native town in Norfolk. It receives a river, Tchillkat, wliich the Indians ascend about fifty miles to a valley running towards Mount Fairweather, and containing a large lake, which pours its waters into the open ocean at Adnsiralty Bay. The natives of this valley are called the Tchillkat or Copper Indian^, from the abundance of native copper in the neighborhood.* * Sir George Simpsou, toI. i, p. 217. ■^PWPPffl wmmmmK ^1^l|iliiPP! 1. i ALASKA DIRECTORY. 45 I % seas, and was the situation of the headquarters of the Imperial Eussiau Company. Kruzov Island, the south extremity of which is formed by Cape and Mount Edgcumbe, lies before Sitka Sound. It was so named by Captain Lisiansky, after the llussian admiral. It is separated from Baranoff Island by Kevski Channel. It is about seven leagues in length. At its north extreme is the Bay of Islands, but whitjh leads to the strait, sep- arating the two principal islands of the group called by Lisiansky Pochibshi or Peril Strait; It joins Chatham's Strait, is deep, and derives its name from a party of Kussiaus and Indians having been poisoned there some years previously by eating muscles, an accident, it will be remembered, which occurred to one of Vancouver's party, as mentioned before. Kruzov Island is called Pitt Island by Dixon, and on some other early charts. TcHiTCHAGOFF ISLAND is the next and northernmost large island. It is divided from Baranott' Island bj'^ the Peril Straits, previously mentioned, and extends from it to Cross Sound, which separates it from the con- tinent to the northward. Jacoei Island, the fourth of those described by Lisiansky, lies at the northwestern extremity of Tchitchagotf Island. The passage separating them was not explored by Lisiansky, but a vessel belonging to the Russian comi)any was said to have passed through it, and to have found a sufficient depth of water. The Sitka Islands are plentifully supplied with wood, chiefly of pine, larch, and cedar, and abundance of wild berries are found. The rivers, during summer, are full of excellent fish. Herrings swarm in the sound every spring; fine cod nmy be caught, and halibut, of great Aveight, with the hook and line only. There are few land animals, but a great quan- tity of almost every species of amphibious ones. The birds are not so numerous as at the Kodiack Islands to tlie northward. The climate of these Islands is considered to be capable of producing barley, oats, and Euroi)ean fruits and ACgetables; but the Eussiau estab- lishment was in a great measure dependent on the produce of the more southern settlements of the Hudson's Bay Company at Victoria, Van- couver, and Puget's Sound. The summer is warm, and extends to the end of August; the winter differs from the Eussiau autumn, only that there are frequent falls of snow. Of the native popidation it is difficult now to speak; they are an uncoutli race, similar to those previously mentioned. They are brave, but extremely cruel. The labret, or lip-piece, among the women, is one of the greatest characteristics. Cape Ommaney, in latitude 50° 9', longitude 134° 34', is the south extreme of the Archipelago ; oft' it lies Wooden's Island ; they have been alluded to before, as forming the southwestern entrance point of Chat- ham's Strait. Port Conclusion. — Two leagues north by east one-half east from 1 46 ALASKA DIRECTORY. ! Cape Omniancy, which has boon before described, the south point of the Sitka Archiiielaj^o is the southern point of the entrance to I'ort Con- elusion, so called because it was here that Vancouver's vessels awaited the conclusion of the survey of this coast in August, 1794, having left England on the 1st of April, 1791, for that service. The north point of Port Conclusion bears from the southern north three-quarters west two miles distant. The depth of water in midchannel, between these points, is seventy-flve fathoms, but decreases to eight or ten close to the shores, without rocks or sands, excepting near the iyi)ints, which are sutliciently evident to be avoided. South-southwest, about half a mile from the northern point of entrance, is a most excellent and snug basin, Port Arm- strong, about a mile long, and a third of a mile wide; but its entrance is by a very narrow channel, half a mile in length, in a west-southwestern direction, with some islets and rocks lying off its southern points; these are steep, nearly close to them, as are the shores on both sides, which vary from sixth to a twelfth of a mile asunder, with a clear navigable passage from eight to twelve fathoms deep in the middle, and tive fathoms on the sides. T- j soundings are tolerably regular in the basin, from thirty in the middle to ten fathoms close to the shores. Immedi- ately within its northern point is a line sandy beach, and an excellent run of water, as is the case also at its head, with a third sandy beach just within its southern point of entrance. In the vicinity of these beaches, . -specially the first and third, is a small extent of low land ; but the other parts of the shores are composed of steep, rugged clift's, on all sides, surrounded by a thick forest of pine trees, which grow with more vigor than those in other parts of the harbor. From its entrance to its head the port extends about a league south- west by south, free from any interruption, although it is inconvenient from its great depth of water. Near the southern side of the entrance lie a small islet and some rocks, but these are entirely out of the way of its navigation. The soundings cannot be considered as very regular, yet in general they are good; in some places it is stonj', in others sand and mud ; but in the cove, where the vessels were at anchor, a mile and a quarter within the south point on the other side, the bottom is rocky. The head of this cove approaches within the fourth of a mile of the head of another cove, whose entrance on the outside is about two miles to the south of the south point of the harbor. In the entrance of that cove the depth is seven fathoms; weeds were seen growing across it, and to the northward of it is a small islet, and some rocks. The surrounding shores are generally steep and rocky, and covered with wood to the water's edge ; but on the sides of the a(\ja- cent hills are some spots clear of trees, and chiefly occupied by a damp, moorish soil, with several pools of water. The surface produces some berry bushes, but the fruit, in August, was not r'pe. Tlie western shore of Chatham's Strait was nn abont the shores in all directions. Here the sea-otters were in such plenty that it was easily in the power of the natives to procure as many as they chose to be at the trouble of takinj^. They were also of extremely line quality. — (Van- •ouver, vol. iii, p. 2(14.) This opinion has been verified by the success of the Russian company since established here. Counnander R. W. Meade, jr., comnumding United States steamer Sayinaw, reports that in 18G9 the sea-otter had disappeared from this strait. 48 ALASKA DIRECTORY. * tioned, distant from it three leagues. Tliis island is abnut sevrn miles long, northeast and southwest, and three miles broad. On its north side is a channel two to three miles wid^, between it and the continental shore. The northwestern point ot this channel is Point Duudas, in lati- tude 58° 2Vj longitude 135° 55'. To the westward of this point is a branch extending to the north and northwest. At about two leagues up it the channel is nearly stopped by shoals, roclvy islets, and rocks, four miles beyond which it is flnally closed, being in most i)laces greatly encumbered with ice. On its north- eastern side are some shoals, which extend to within half a mile of its sputhwestern side. The entrance, which is about two miles wide between Points Dundas and Wimbledon, has, in midchannel, on'.,, eighteen fathoms wtiter. About the entrance the soundings are regular, of a moderate depth, and afford good and secure anchorage ; but in the sum- mer season (or in July) vessels would be much inconvenienced by the immense quantities of floating ice. Cape Spencer, the north point of the entrance of Cross Sound, on the Paciftc Ocean, is a very consi)icuous, high, bluff promontory. Off it extend some rocks for about half a league. It is in latitude 5S° 14', longitude 136° 35', and bears from Point Wimbledon southwest three- quarters west, distant eleven miles. To the northwest of Point Wimbledon the main land terminates in steep, rugged, rocky cliffs, oft" which, at a little distance, fire three small rocky islands. The bay, extending to the northwest between these points, was occupied by an icy barrier and a great quantity of floating ice, (in July, 1794,) rendering the navigation across it very diiiicult and tedious. The head of the bay, which decreases to three miles in width, is formed by a range of lofty mountains, con- nected with which is an immense body of Compact perpendicular ice, extending from shore to shore. In the upper part of the eastern side the shores are composed of a border of low laud, which, on high tides, is overflowed, and becomes broken into islands. The southern shore of this portion of the strait is of a more broken character than the northern. We have described it as far as Point Augusta, lying opposite to Point Marsden and Couverden. Prom this to Point Sophia is north by west one-quarter west seventeen miles ; the coast composed chiefly of rocky clitt's, with islets and detached rocks lying at some distance from the shore, which is compact, not very high, but well covered Avith wood. The latter point is at the northeast of the entrance of Port Frederick, the entrance of which is about a league wide, east and west, winding to the southward, and apparently nnich divided by water. Prom the* west side of this sound the shore takes a more northerly direction, with some islets near it, to a point whii^h is the northern extreme of the archipelago, in latitude 58° 18'. Hence the coast takes an irregular course, west by south seventeen and oncf- half miles, to Point Lavinia, containing many open bays. On the oppo- site shore of the sound is Point Wimbledon, just mentioned, bearing *s- i ALASKA. DIRECTORY. 49 i t. north by west six miles from it. Betwoeii tlioso points is si jjroup of one low and two liifjfh rocky islands, with some rocks and islets about them. Port Altiiorp is to the westward of Point Laviniii, which extends eleven miles to the southward of it. Its south point of entrance is Point Lucan. From Point Lucan, in a direction about northwest, lies a narrow, high island, about two and a quarter miles in length ; and between ith southeast point and Point Lucan there are two small islets, which ren- der that passage not so commodious for sailing in and out of the port as that to the north of the islaiul, between it and the westl- tered as the basin, nor was there any fresh water in it that could be easily procured, a disadvantage that can readily be done away with by resort- ing to a stream of excellent water close at hand, on the eastern shore, where the casks may be .filled in the boat. The surrounding country is chiefly composed of a rugged rocky substance, cov^ered with a forest consisting ])rincipally of pine trees, and where the steep acclivities do not forbid their growth they extend down to the water's edge. Cross Sound was discovered by Captain Cook, in his last voyage, on Sunday, May 3, 1778, and was named lim from the day marked in the calendar. Its existence was denied by some after its original dis- covery, but the survey of it proves that Cook's description is much more accurate than from the transitory, distant view he had of it might have been reasonably expected. Its eastern limits may be placed at Points Lavinia and Wimbledon, Avhich have been previously described. From seaward it appears to branch into many openings, the largest seemingly to the northward; this is the large bay described between Cape Spencer and Point Wimbledon. Its southern shore, from Point Lucan to Point Bingham, which is opposite to Cape Spencer, trends southwest by west one-quarter west ten miles. Between these points an opening takes a southeast by south direction for some distance, and probably affords some shelter and secure anchorage. Point Bingham, which lies south by east one-half east ten miles froui Cape Spencer, affords a bold entrance into the sound, without rock, shoal, or any permanent obstacle. The group of rocky islands, noticed as existing to the south of Point Wimbledon, form 4 AD 50 ALASKA DIRECTORY. Si!' II- • \\ V 1 1 : \ 1 ■ 1 1 1; i 1 1 || 1 ;) 1 a kind of termination i > Cro»s Sound, and almost separatoHlio ocean from Chatham's Strait, to the eantward of it ; but on eitlier Hide of theso, ialandn there are two narrow channels; the northernmost, ])ein;;' tl f Cape Edward, and off which lies a cluster of small islets and rocks. The coast between these canes is much broken, and has several openings in it that aijpear likely to afford shelter ; but the vast number of rocks and small islets, some producing trees, and others entirely bar- ren, that extend to the distance of three or four miles from the shore, will render the entering of such harbors unpleasant and dangerous, until a more competent knoAvledge of their several situations may be better acquired.t That which appeared to Vancouver to be the easiest of access * Voyage (le La Peronse, vol. ii, p. 219. t " All the land next the sea, beginnine; about eight leagues to the southeast of Cross Gape, and tending to within ten leagues of Cape Edgcumbe, seems to bo composed of low woody islands, among which there appear several places of good shelter. The inland country forms into a number of peaked hilh, some well wooded, and others quite hn.Te."—Fortlock,p. 257. :i ■ I ALASKA DIRECTORY. 51 I lies about two leagues to the northward of Cape Edward, and as it is in latitude 57° 44', ho was led to conclude that this opening was Portlock's Harbor. Poutlock's Hariiou. — "On drawing near the o])ening, and about two miles from the sliore to the ntnthwest of it, we had twenty and twentyfivo fathoms water over muddy bottom, aiul just within the entrance were some high, barren rocks. On getting into the entrance of the passage, which is about a mile across, we deei)ened the water to thirty fathoms, sandy bottom, the barren rocks Just mentioned (an/ iwa > w iii raKBJiaH iBBi>*.v«;i«,4wt.u<^;^ 6t ALASKA DIRECTORY. I* Hi ii! / i'r 11 I t U ! I f I' n i 1 4i the adjacent shores. It m also the entrance to the channel separating the two principal islands of the Sitka Archipelago. Near the land forming the southern pai't of the Bay of Islands are several small islets, and its south point was named hy Vancouver, Point Amelia. From Point Amelia the coast extends south 5'^ east, sixteen miles,. to Cape Edgcumbe, having nearly in the middle of that space an opening, with two small islets lying before it, and presenting the appearance of a good harbor, called by Vancouver Port Mary. The other parts of the coast are indented with small open bays. This is the western face of the island, named Kruzov Island by the Ilussian, and Pitt Island by the early English navigators. The follow- ing notice of the channel which insulates it is given by Captain Port- lock : " Between Cape Edgcumbe and Portlock Harboi', Portlock's long-boat fell in with a strait about a league Avide at the entrance, mA running in about east or east-southeast, with bold shores and good anchorage. Soon after getting in, (the southern and eastern i^oint in latitude 57° 30', and the nortlieru and western in 57° 36',) they stood up between south and southeast near four leagues, the strait being about three leagues across, with several islands in it. They kept along under the southern shore, and after getting up the passage about four leagues, they found it not more than half a league across; two leagues higher it becuame nar- row arid shoal, drying at southwest above two miles. After passing this it grows wider still, trending away to northeast, the de[)th increasing gradually; they soon came into a large sound, where they saw a great number of whales, and also Blount Edgcumbe, and some islands lying to the southeast of Cape Edgcumbe. On getting round the north i)oint of this passage, through which they had come thus far, there was an open- ing running up in a north direction, and branching in several ways; in the entrance of the main opening were several small islands. They still continued to steer on to southeast for a ])assage about one and a half mile across, made by the north part of an island just under Mount Edg- cumbe (Pitt or Kruzov Island) and the main, through which they saw the sea. After getting through this passage, they steered among a cluster of islands, lying n^ar the shore, to the north of Cape Edgcumbt."* Cape EDGcrMUE, the Caoo del Eugailo of the Spanish charts of Man- rclle, is low land, covereil with trees, which projects considerably into the sea, latitude 57° 2', longitude 35° 45'. t . Mount Edgcumbe, which stands on the south end of the island, inland of the cape of the same name, is the ]\lount San Jacinto of the Spanish charts. It is estimated to be about two thousaiul eight hun- dred feet in height. The side toward the sea is steep, aiul was covered with snow, (in July, 1805;) that towards the bay (to the southward) is k I : hi ♦ • Portlock, ]). 274-270. t Voyage «lc La P<5i'ouse, tome ii, p. 22L ALASKA DIRECTORY. 53 Bmootli, and of j^'adual asceiit, and overgrown with woods to within oi\e and a luilf mile of the top. This upper space exhibits a few patches of verdnre, but is in general covered with stones of diiferent colors. Oa the suuiniit is a lake-basin, or crater, about two miles in circumference, and forty fathoms deej), the snrfac ; covered Avith snow. To judge from the api)earance of the top of this mountain, it may be concluded that it was formerly much higher; but the eruptions having ceased, that time has crumbled to pieces the highest points, and tilled up the aby8s out of which the materials forming the exterior mountain were vomited. Many years must have elapsed since this volcano was in action, as several sorts of the i-ejected lava are turning to earth. * Sitka or Norfolk SorNi>.— The first of these two names is that of the natives, who call themseh-es Sitka-hans. It is probably the same as that called by the Spaniards, Baya de Guadalupa.t It is also called Tchinkitanay Bay by Marchand and other authors. The name of Nor- folk Sound is that applied to it by Dixon, whose industry first made known its real character ; he anchored in the first cove round Cape Edgcumbe, and did not penetrate to the eastward, to where the Eus- sian establisliment was. The charts and descriptions of this period are so imperfect that they would probably rather tend to mislead than instruct. J By referring to these authors,' ample descriptions of the natives, their habits and manners, will be found. These, however, are probably much changed since their cresent a strong wall (kf defense against the waves. A bold, enterprising man, ot the name of Baranoff, long superintended the company's establishment. Peculiarly adapted by natute for the task of contending with a wild people, he seemed to find a ])leasure in the o<;cupation. Although the conquest of the Sitkaens, (Sitka-hans,) or Kalnsbes, aahs not so easily achieved as that of the more timid Aleutians and Kodiacks, he finally accomi)lished it. A .varlike, courageous, and cruel race, provided with fire-arms by the ships of the North AmericaJi United States in exchange for otter-skins, they maintained an obstinate struggle against the invay a Jight -houve, whioint of the harbor, and encircles one-half of the * See Kotzebue'8 New Voyage Round the World, vol. ii, pp. l.'t&-14a. I w^^^^mmttm ALASKA DIRECTORY. 56 ! house to the southeast, The northwest end is approached by a flight of steps. Half way up sentinels are placed day and night, and here also are posted brass guns on light field carriages. The upper story is divided into one grand saloon in the center, flanked by a drawing-room, and billiard-room at one end, and a drawing-room at the other ; all are well proportioned, painted, not papered, and the walls adorned with good engravings of British victories by sea and land. In the saloon is ii magnificent full-length painting of Nicholas. Tlie lower story contains (so to speak) a dining-room, drawing-room, study, and the domestic establishment of the governor and hi:s lady. The dining-room is hung with prints of English towns, principally on the seaboard ; the drawing- room with views in Switzerland and Germany. The whole is plainly and substantially furnished, and heated with stoves of the continental custom. This, as well ns all other houses, is built of wood, immense logs, dovetailed into each other, squared and painted. '• The arsenal is the next object which arrests the attention of a stran- ger, from the number of men employed either buildirg new or repairing old vessels. At this moment they are building a new steamer, destined, I think, for Mr. Leidesdorff, of California. The workmanship appears good aTid solid; everything for her is made on the spot, for which pur- I)ose tliey have casting-houses, boiler-makers, cooi)ers, tnrners, and all the other ers requisite for such an undertaking. The boiler is almost completed, and is of < ;)i)er. They have also their tool-makers, workers in tin and bi'ass, chai i «'iigriivers, sawyers, and saw-mills, for all which occupations suitable estjiblisliments have been erected. " The climate is moist; out <•< fourteen day^ there were only two upon which rmutical observations could l>e made ; ose two were as fine and as warm as are experienced in any country."* It was visited by Sir George Simpson on his overland journey around the world, in 1842, " Sitka, (the late) Governor Etholine's residence, consisted of a suite of apartments communicating, according to the Russian fashion, with each other, all the public rooms being handsomely in, nished and richly deco- rated. Itcomiiianded a view of the whole establishment, which was, in fact, a little village; while al)out half way down the rock two batteries on terraces frowned resi)ecti\ely over the land and the water. Behind the bay, whidi forms the harbor, rise stupeiulous hills of conical niount- aius, with summits of everlasting snow. To seaward, Mount Edgcumbe, also, in the form of a eone, rears its truncated peak, still remembered as the source of smoke and flame, of lava and ashes; but now known — so various are the emergencies of nature — to be the repository of theaccu- malated snows of an age. *'Wesat down to a good dinner in the French stylC; the party in addi- tion to our host ixml hostess (the latter a pretty and ladylike woman from Nnntical Mngazine, Jiiue, 1849, pp. 310-311. ^^aaHOBaamtt URBRffiM I 'Pi i ; 56 ALASKA DIRECTORY. Helsingfxirs, iii Finland) and ourselves, comprising twelve of the com- pany's officers. We afterwards visited the schools, in which there were twenty boys and as many girls, principally half-breeds ; such of the childreti as were orphans were supported by the comjiany, and the others by their parents. The scholars appeared to be clean and healthy. The boys, on attaining the proper age, would be drafted into the service, more particularly into the nautical '^"anch of the same, and the 'girls would, in due time^ become their wives, or the wives of others. " Nor did religion seem to be neglected at Sitka, any more than educa- tion. The Greek church had its bishoi), with lifteen priests, deacons, and followers ; and the Lutherans had their clergyman. Here, as in other parts of the emi)ire, the ecclesiastics were all maintained by the imperial government, without any expense, or at least without any direct expense, to the Russian-American Comi)any. " The good folks of New Archangel appear to live well. The sur- rounding countr^ abcmnds in the cheveril, the finest meat I ever ate, with the single exception of the moose; while halibut, cod, herrings, flounders, and manj" other sorts of fish are always to be Imd for the taking in unlimited (juantities. In a little stream (Indian River) which is within a mile of the port, salmon are so plentiful at the proper season that, when ascending' the river, they have literally been known to embar- ras the moven^euts of a canoe. About one hundred thousand of the last mentioned fish, equivalent to fifteen hundred barrels, are annually salted for the use of the establishment; they are so inferior, however^ in rich- ness and fiavor, to such as are caught further to the southward, that they are not adapted for exportation."* Point Woueiiouse, as previously mentioned, is the southM'cst point of Sitka Sound. An extensive group of islets and rocks extend north-nortliwest from it for three or four miles from the shore, which, from that point, with little variation takes a course of south 36° east. This part of the coast is much broken into small oi)enings, with islets and detached rocks lying oft' it. Port Banks, of Captain Dixon, is in this interval. It is in latitude 50° 35', and the following are Dixon's remarks on it: " The prospect at Pi)rt Banks, though lather confined, yet has some- thing more pleasing aiul romantic than any we had seen on the coast. The land to the northward and southward rises sutticiently to an eleva- tion to convey every idea of winter; and though its sides are perpetually covered with snow, yet the numerous i)ines, which ever and anon pop out their lusty heads, divest it of that dreary and horrific cast with the barren mountains to the northwest of Cook's River, (Inlet.) To the eastward the land is considerably lower, and the i)ines api)ear to grow in the most regular and exact order; these, together with the brusli- Avood and shrubs on the surrounding beaches, form a most beautiful con * Sir George Siiupaou, vol. i, pp. 219-221 ; 227. t }.:«*.;,.,. . ALASKA DIRECTORY. 5.7 trast to the higher hind, and render the appearance of the whole truly pleasing and delightful."* Cape Omivianey, the southern extremity of the Sitka Archipelago, lies forty-five miles from Point Wodehouse, and has been previously de- scribed. Thus the entire circuit of this archipelago has been imperfectly noticed. The following is a description of Sitka Sound, by George Davidson, esq., assistant United States Coast Survey, from a report made November 30, 18G7: " Sitka Sound. — Between the south point, formed by Biorka Island and Cai)e Edgcumbe, lying north 40° west, and south 40° east, twenty- three miles from each other, lies the entrance to Sitka Sound, having a depth of ninety fathoms outside the middle of the entrance, and very bold water in every direction. " Biorka Island is comparatively low, and wooded, about two miles in extent, north and south, and the same east and west. It has a sunken rock one mile south of its south point, and several islets, but along its west and north faces the water is thirty ftithoms deep close in shore. On the north face of Biorka, one and a half mile east of the northwest point, is a small cove, opening to the northward, with soundings of eleven, nine, and seven fathoms laid down inside the heads. Off the entrance to this cove are soundings in twenty-five fjithoms sandy bottom. The liussian navigators inform me that this would make a good pilot station. " Two miles west of the islet, which lies off the northwest point of Biorka, is a single sunken rock, where a heavy sea breaks only once every five or six minutes. It is said to have ten feet of water on it; and if so, must be very pointed. " Tlie Ilussian navigators inform me that they have repeatedly watched the break upon it, and that the rocky patch of i\early a mile in extent laid down on the English chart Xo. 2337 of Sitka Sound does not exist. All the adjacent islands are low and wooded, but the main-land is well marked by very high mountains. , " Cape Edgcumbe is notedly marked by the extinct volcano of Mount Edgcumbe, bearing north 52° east, four miles distant from the extremity of the cape. The shores are covered with timber to the edges of the bold high bluffs of rock and lava, fringed with innumerable rocks. The cape presents the ai)pearance of a wooded plateau, extending to the base of the mountain, interrui^ted only by two small hills between the cape and mountain. But the great feature and landmark is the moun- tain itself, which is peculiarly marked, and has no counterpart in this region. " It rises two thousand eight hundred and fifty-five feet above the sea, and the top, forming the rim of an ancient crater, appears nearly hori- zontal, and has a diameter of two thousand feet by my measurements. ' Dixou, p. 195. (Juue, 1787.) ,:j.'.^ Iv.;".)';;^: 58 ALASKA DIRECTORY. The sides from the sammit down have a gentle and regular inclination ot about 25°, are marked by deep furrows, destitute of trees or herbage, and present in sunlight a dull reddish appearance. In winter it is covered with snow. It is situated upon Krouzof island, of which the south and east sides form the north and west shores of Sitka Sound, and the passages northward, while its north side forms the south shore of Klokacheva Sound. Tobenkoff gives a view of the mountain and cape. '' From Cape Edgcumbe, the north shore inside the entrance to the sound runs a general and nearly straight course of north 85° east for seven miles to Etmoloi Point, or Point of Shoals, off which, at tl.a dis- tance of a mile, lie the low island and rocks, with a passage repc'-ted between the point and island. Nearly midway between these points, and one and a half mile olf shore, lies the moderately high wooded island of St. Lazara or Cape Island, with from twenty to twenty-five fathoms of water between it and the shore. "The south shore inside the entrance to Sitka Sound is broken by innumerable rocks and low wooded islets, and indented by Large bajs. The whole shore is covered with spruce, making it difficult to dis- tinguish the islands. No sunken rocks are known to exist nearer the entrance than Williams's Bank, five and a half miles north- northeast from the northwest point of Biorka, and lying some distance off the low islands inside. The bank api)ears to consist of four or five sunken rocks, upon some of w^hich the sea invariable' breaks. "Within the entrance the sound contracts its width to six miles between Point of Shoals and Williams's Bank, with deep water to and inside that line. From Point of Shoals to Bouranoff Point, forming part of the south shores, the bearing is south 80° east, the distance seven and a half miles ; and on this line the sound is contracted by the Low Island and rocks, one mile distant from Point of Shoals ; by theVitskari and adjacent rocks, three miles distant; by the Kulichoff Eock and adjacent sunken rocks, five miles distant from this same point. Deep channels exist between Low and Vitskari, Vitskari and Kuli(;hoff, and Kulichoff and the islets off Bouranoff Points, with, however, dangerous rocks in the latter. But the channel invariably used by the Russians is that between Vitskari and Kulichoff. On the English chart this channel is erroneously contracted by the laying down of a sunken reef extending one mile east of Vitskari, nearly on the line towards Kulichoff. The Russian captains inform me that they can and have passed Vitskari along its southeast face within half a cable's length when steering a direct course to Mochnati, a course north 62° east, true. We have mai.e it close aboard when coming in at evening, with very thick, heavy weather from the southeast, and saw no breakers to indicate such a reef, in fact were misled by not finding the breakers. We have also seen it from the south-south- east, when there was no breaker off its eastern face, but the breakers on the reef, one mile north of it, really appeared to be breaking off the eastern ■/ r I ALASKA DIRECTORY. 59 face of the rock. It appeared to me, from the distance of a mile or two, to be about forty yards long, and ten feet above high vfater, with a rongh irregular surface. In smooth Aveather it has been landed upon, and I have already recommended that a light be placed upon it, as from this point it would illuminate an arc of the horizon beyond the sound from 56° west toward Biorka Islarul, south 88° west toward Cape Edgcumbe, and be a guide to clear the rock oft' Biorka. From the northwest point of Biorka it bears north fio east, distant seven miles. From the rock off Biorka it bears north 21° east, distant seven and a half miles. " Kulichoff" Kock is laid down on the English chart south 10° east, two miles from Vitsk.ari. It is about twenty feet high, and less in extent than Vitskari. There are sunken rocks to the north and south-south- west of it, about half a mile distant, and one towards Vitskari, about a quarter of a mile oft", with deep water and dangerous sunken rocks between the Kulichott" and the islets off Point Bouranoft". But Teben- koff and the old Kussian charts place the Vitskari and Kulichoft* three miles apart, while the latest unpublished llussian examinations about Kulichoff place the reef a short distance north of the rock, with a pass- age of twelve fathom 8 between them and close to the rock. The English chart places Kulichoff' more than two miles from Bouranoff, but the latest llussian determination makes it only one and a half mile. I forward to you the old Eussian chart, upon wlii(;h are placed the unpublished results of late Russian examinations, kindly lurnished me by Prince Maksoutoff". " For four miles inside of Vitskari l;ock we find clear, deep water, up to the range of wooded islands and rocks lying for two miles outside of Sitka. Through this barrier of islands there are three channels to the anchorages east and west of the town. These passages are known as the eastern, middle, and westward, the former being the longest, and the middle one the shortest, to either anchorage. In approaching these islands in thick weather the officers of the company endeavored to find the island of Mochnati, which is from twenty to thirty f'^'^t high, rocky, and covered with a thick growth of spruce, whose dark foliage, with the black rocks beneath, brought out in relief by the surf breaking along its front aiul on the outlying rock, makes it discernible through the fog when other islands are invisible. This isleulies between the middle and western channels, and a vessel making it can take either and safely run then for the anchorage. When the fog is lifting, from the coming in of a westerly wind, this island appears first. Abreast of Mochnati the west- ern channel is about three-quarters of a mile wide, with a large reef, bare at low water, forming the western side, and the middle channel is contracted by sunken and exposed rocks to a much narrower entrance. The English (!hart, based upon that of La Peronse, gives a good idea of the channels and the anchorages, which should only be entered under the guidance of a pilot, or with good local knowledge. " It would be useless to attempt to describe the labyrinth of channels T 60 ALASKA DIRECTORY. and islets passing in every direction, like tentacula from the sound, yet a few items may not be without interest. "A good passage exists between the north part of the sound and the, eastern end of Klokacheva Sound, which enters from the Gulf of Alaska, in latitude 58° 20', and continues through Peril Straits to Chatham Straits. We have made several examinations through these waters, anil changed materially their shapes on the English chart. Cross Bay was furnished me in manuscript by Prince Maksoutoff, and Hayward Harbor was made by Mr. Blake when examining that locality for reported mag- netic iron ore. " The Newski Passage, between Olga Strait and Peril Strait, is quite narrow, and has sunken rocks upon its shores. Mr. Mosman made a series of soundings through it, indicating plenty of water. This rough sketch, from compass bearings throughout in a rain-storm, makes the strait narrower than laid down on the charts. With a thorough survey of this strait and of Klokacheva Sound another entrance is afforded to Sitka Sound to vessels driven north of Cape Edgcombe by heavy soutli- easters, or by the currents in light airs. " The indications of my small local triangulation about Sitka harbor proper would seem to show that the base line of the original survey was erroneous, and this may possibly explain the announcement on the Eng- lish chart that ' there are discrepancies between this chart and the plan of Sitka (2348) which cannot be adjusted.' " The harbor of Sitka is very contracted, and in the western anchorage numerous mooring buoys have been laid dowii by the Russian- American Company near the town, although this part of the harbor is narrow and marked by three sunkcii rocks. The eastern harbor receives the greater sweep of the southeastern, and a heavy swell is said to be brought in from the sound, so that the company's vessels like to anchor in the west- ern, as they can discharge more readily, and especially because during tile winter the officers and crews are taken from the ships, which are left with only one keeper. But the British men-of-war use the eastern harbor. " In the great gale of October 28, 1857, the severest at this place for very many years, three or four vessels broke adrift from their moorings, and several were driven ashore. The steamship John L. Stephens dragged her anchor, but having steam up, and getting her anchor, steamed through the throat connecting the two anchorages, and anchored in nine fathoms in the eastern harbor, where she rode out the gale easily, and afterwards experienced great difficulty in getting her anchor, so Arm a hold had it taken in the tenacious bottom of mud and shells. The Stephens is an old Panama steamer, very high out of water, and had but one anchor of two thousand pounds. " From the Coast Survey tidal observations of two months, from Au- gust 21 to October 21, we find the mean rise and fall of the tide to be seven and eight-tenths feet, and at the full and change of the moon v'-'f ALASKA DIRECTORY. 61 eleven and nine-tenths feet. The extreme range observed dnring the above i)eriod was thirteen feet, and tlic least range two and one- tenth feet. The Eussian charts and anthorities give the rise and fall between fourteen and fifteen feet, and this is the accepted fact. ThQ English chart states ' H. W. F. and C, h. 34 m. ; spring rise five to seven feet.' Our determinations of the tide give, therefore, an im- poitiuit correction to establish opinionsand authorities upon this subject. " Sitka is the principal establishment of the Itussian-American Com- pany, and comprises about one hundred and twenty good blockhouses, storehouses, barracks, workshops, sawmills, churches, hospital, and the governor's headquarters. It contains nine hundred and sixty-eight inhabitants, of which three hundred and forty-nine are Itussians, ana the remainder Creoles or half-breeds and Aleutians. Outside the stock- ade are forty large Indian houses, facing the western harbor, and occu- pied by not less than one thousand Kalushes during* the winter. The site of the town is cramped, and it is a mere question of time and expansion when these Indian houses will be removed. For years the Russians have had about a dozen guns directed along the face of the Kalushian village. "The geographical position of the Coast Survey astronomical station, at the head of the ship yard and near the new United States barracks, is latitude 57° 02' 51" ; longitude, 135° IC 25.5" ; or in time, 9 h. 01 m. 05.7 s. ; magnetic declination, 28° 4G.7' east, in August 1867. "The harbor of Sitka being contracted, exposed to severe southeast gales, difliicult of access, and having no extent of land fit for cultivation, the question has been raised wlu'lher a better harbor cannot be found in the vi(!inity aftbrding safe anchorage, of easier access, and greater space, with surrounding soil that maj' be cultivated." The following is an extract from Eemark Book of Commander R. W. Meade, jr., commanding United States steamer Saginaw, December, 18G8. " Sitka Harbor and Approaches. — The latitude of Sitka is 57° 03' north, and longitude 135° 10' west, (approx.) Time of H. W. F. and C, h 34 m. Rise of tide, mean, eight feet ; s])rings, fourteen feet. Variation of compass 28° 30' east. The tides in their rise are extremely irregular. The harbor is formed by a chain of islands, and there ai"e three princi- pal ship channels, viz, west channel, middle channel, and east channel, of which the safest for sailing vessels is the east or broad channel, the other two being narrow and somewhat tortuous. Pilots may be readily jirocured, the charge for men-of-war being four dollars per foot, the pilot taking the ship outside of Biorca Island, or Cape Edgcumbe* or Kruzov Island. It is recommended to strangers to take a pilot if possible. The pilots, however, go out in small bo.ats and in bad weather will not venture, as a very heavy sea rolls into the outer bay. Inside of the islands the sea is always smooth. The best landmark for making the Bay of Sitka is Mount Edgcumbe, two thousand eight hundred feet •"^^ /^ 62 ALASKA DIRECTORY high, Avliicli is tlie extinct crater of a tremendous volcano, and can be seen miles out at sea, the Hummit being covered with t .ow nearly all the year round. When inside of Cape Edgcumbe, steer for Harbor Moun- tain, a prominent peak baek oftiie town, bringing itto bear north-north- east one-quarter east, and passing Vitskari island on port hand, carefully avoiding a dangerous reef of rocks (above water) on starboard hand, which bear east-northeast from Vitskari Island, distant two and one- quarter miles. When fairly up with the chain of islands which form the harbor, and when the Halibut Kocks are on the starboard beam, steer east-northeast one half east, a mid-channel course for eastern entrance, borrowing nu)st on the starboard shore, carefully avoiding Liar liocks. Wheu up with the Mista Island the course is north-northeast three- quarters east, and the channel is comparatively clear. When the citadel of Sitka bears west one-quarter north, steer for it until it is about one mile distant, when it is well to keej) the port (south) shore aboard, to avoid a ledge ofrocks and boulders off In J'an Kiver. The anchorage for men-of-war near Japan Island will then be i)lainly seen, and the vessel may take any berth she pleases, but it will be requisite to moor. The best plan in my judgment is to moor with an anchor, and forty-five fath- oms cable laid at northeast, and the port anchor and thirty fathoms laid out west and put on the swivel. If it becomes necessary to prevent the ship from swinging, a kedge dropped astern will effect this. The only really violent winds come from northeast to east, clearing off with squalls from the westward ; or a vessel may nu)or with port anchor northeast, starboard southeast, and a kiidge astern to westward.'' We now return to the northward, taking up the description at Cape Spencer, the point where Cross Sound termiiuites. From Cape Spencer the coast takes a direction of northwest. It is steep and entire, well wooded, and, with the exception of one sjuall opening between it and Cape Fairweather, appears not likely to afford shelter for shipping. The coast is comidetely bounded at a little dis- tance by steep, compact mountains, which are a continuation of the same undivided range stretching from the eastward. Cape Fairweatheu is placed by Vancouver in latitude 58° 50^', lon- gitude 137° 50'. This cape cannot be considered as a very conspicuous promontory, it is most distinguished when seen from the southward, as the land to the west of it retires a few miles back to the north, and there forms a bend in the coast, and is the most conspicuous point eastward of Cape Phipps, at Behring's Bay to the northward. Mount Faibweatheu is one of the most renuirkable mountains on the northwest coast of America. It isi)laced in latitude 58° 54', longi- tude 137° 38', an give tchea from it into the «ea. Cai>e Turner, on tlie contray, is bohl, and must be kept Homo on ^>ar! of avoiding the Hhoals that lie a little distance to the eastward of it: between these shoals and tlu^ point j;ood anehoriige is found, in eight to fourteen fathoms, clear good hold- ing ground. Tlio rise and fall of tide here are ab(Mit nine feet; an«l it is high water about thirty minutes after the moon passes the meridian. Port Mulgkave lies to the northeast of Point Turner, and is pro- tected from the ocean, as before stated, by an islaiul lying in a northeastern and southwestern direction. Tt was jjossibly tlrst discovered by Captain Dixon, June, 1787, who named it after that nobleman. It contains a lunnber of snudl low islaiuls, which, in common with the rest of the coast, are entirely covered with Junes, intermixed with brushwood. To the iu)rth and west are high mountains, covered with snow, ten leagues distant.* It was visited by Sir Edward lielcher, in his Majesty's ship Sulphur, who staid a short time here. Fish, halibut, and salmon of two kinds were abundant and moderate, of wlii«!h the crews purchased and cured great quantities. Game very scarce. The re.;yuns of the Russian estab- lishments were observed; a block-house pitched on a cliff, on the eastern side; and on the low point, wliere the astronomical observations were taken, the remains of another; also a staff, with a vane and cross, over a grave. Sir Edward lieJ(!lier says that a good leading mark for the entrance to the harbor is with Mount Fairweather over Cape Turner (or north 88° east.) The island or islands before alluded to, which form the outer face of Port Mulgrave, and of which Point Turner is the southwest extremity, extend for eight miles in leiigth. They are almost joined to the conti- nental shore b^' a spit incommoded with many rocks and huge stones, but leaving a very narrow channel, by which Vancouver's vessel, the Chatham, passed from one part of the inlet to the other from the north- ward. The channel leading along the continent was found on examina- tion to be not more than fifty yards wide, though nearly at high water ; for a small space the depth was only fifteen feet, but it quickly increased to ten fathoms, and then to seventeen fathoms. This passage is about six hundred yards long, lying from the (northern) entrance of the chan- nel south 00° west two miles, in which space the continental shore fonns a small bay, and to the southward of the narrow part it takes a nu)re southerly direction ; along it are some islets and rocks, and the western side of the channel is much broken. About a league from the narrow l>art the depth continued to be from seventeen to twelve fathoms, until a shoal was reached that lies right across the jiassage, on which the ChathaTu grounded, but was got oft' into deep water without anj- damage. About the conclusion of the ebb a boat was sent to examine two places 5 A D Dixon, p. 170. 66 ALASKA DIRECTORY. OM the bar that were not dry; one of these, thoojjfh narrow, was fouod to be sufficiently deep and free from danger, provided ita line of direction Y/as n«ark<.^d with l)uoy8; thiH was done,, and at half tiood the Chatliaui passed through it, iiaving- not ]o,hh Hum three fatlioms water, which /soon after deejjened to fifteen fathonjs. * # * Thus, by persevering, Mr, Puget made his way throu}jlj a channel which, though lie found practi (iabie, he does not recommend to be followed, especially as the eonununi- cation between Port Mulgrave and the ocean is easy and commodious by the j>assage to the south ami westward of l^oint Turner. (Vancouver, vol. iii, pp. 228-0.) Knight's Island is iive miles norHi-nortlieast of the northern entrance to the channel jupt (h'scribed. It admits of a navigable ])assage all around it, but there ar<; some rocks that lie about half a mile from its west point; an'e, which is the eastern extremity of Behring's i^ay. It is protected from the westward l>y Knight's Island, which is about two miles long in a jiortheast and southwest direction, and about a mile broad, lying at the distance of a mile from the main land. The shore here is low, and trends about north 14^ \yest six miles to Point Latouche, the southeast limit of Digges's Sound or Bay. 'This was the only i»lace in th«> bay that presented the least prospect of any interior navigation, and this was iwMessarily limited by tlie closely con- nected range of lofty snowy mountains that .stret(rhed along the coast at no great distance from the sea-side. It was in reality found to be closed from side to side by a iiiin and compact body of ice; l)eyond which, at the back of the ice, a small inlet appeared to extend to northeast by east, about a league. The depth of water at the entrance of the oi)cning is great, and on its northeast side is a bay which atibrded good anchorage, but had a most dreary as{)ect, from it.s vicinity to the ice, ifotwithstand- ing which vege'tatiou was in an advanced state of forwardness." — (Van- couver, July, 1794. The two points forming the entrance to Digges's Hound, thus named by Vancouver, are blulf, lying nearly cast and west of each other, half a kague asunder, the easternmost of them being Point Latouche, as above uu^iitioned. The shores are composed of a continuatioii of the low bor- der, extending from the i'otit of the mountain to the seaside, and are bounded by frozen ice or snow, esi)ecially in the sound. The continental coast, forming the norlh wide of Bhering's Bay, runs to the southward of west, and i* nearly straight an»l coiupact. At eight miles from the opening the land falls back, forming a snudl bay, with a low island about two miles long to the north-northeast of it. The coast liere trends south (KP west eiglit miles, aiul then south 8')° west two leagues, to Point Mauby. If ic it fe ALASKA DIRECTORY. 67 Kune Point Manby forms tlie northwest point of Behring's Bay. It is in latitude 50° 42', longitude 140^^ 13'. To the eastward of it the country is well wooded, and proceeding; northvrard it loses its verdant and more fertile appearance; the coast still continues to be a low compact border of ])lain land. "On the evenhig of June 20, 1704, the Cliathani (Vancouver's ship) an'ived off Point IManby ; tlie water was foniul to be much discolored at tlie distance of four miles from the shore, where bottom could not be gained with tlie hand-line, nor were any ripplings or oiher indications of shallow Avater or hidden dangers noticed. The same appearances had been observed by us on board the Discovery, in several instances, to the eastwarre8eitt|y. Point Kiou was a tolerably well-marked promontory at the period of Vancouver's survey, and to whom it owes its name. He describes it as beiuj;:: low, mcII m ooded, w ith a small islet detached at a little to the westward of it. The coast is still composed of a spacious mjugin of low laml, rising, with a gradual and unifmii ascent, to the foot of the still connected ciiain of lofty mountains, whose summits are but the base from whence Mo\int 8t, Elias towers nnijestically consjncuous in regions of ]>erpetnal frost. Vancouver's charts, from the extensive changes continually going on, present but little to recognixe in this p;nt at the present period. U'Y Bay lies to the northwest of what was Point Uiou. It is termi- nated by steep cliffs, from whence the ice desceiuis to the sea. At the eastern side of the bay the coast is formed of low, or ratlier moderately elevited lj\ind, Its west point is a high, abrupt, cliffy point, bounde«l by a soHortio)i of the coast was visited by his Majesty'.s steamer Sul- ])hui', in her voyage around the Avorld, in 1837, and the following are fcVir Edward Belcher's rennuivs made during that vi.sit: " Icy Bay is very aptly ho nanuHl, as Vancouvers Point Riou nuinst liave dissolved, as well as the sjnall island also mentioned, and on which J had long set my heart a.'^ one of my ]>rincii)al iwsitions. At noon we la«;ked in ten iiathoms, n\u«!, having passed through a quantity of su\i\ine bark, &c. " The small bergs, or reft masses of ice, forming the clifty outlines of the bay, were veined and variegated by mud streaks, like marble, and, where they had been exposed to the sea, were excavated into arches, similar to some of our chalk formations. The base of the point named by Vancouver Point Kiou probably remains, but l>eing free for some dis- tance of the greater bergs, it presented only a low sand or muddy spit, with ragged, dirty-colored ice, grounded. No island could be traced, and our interest was too deeply excited in seeking for it to overlook such a desirable object. ** The current was found to set one and a half miles per hour west, varying but slightly in force, and not at all in direction. At this posi- tion we anchored in fifty fathoms, mud, near Mount St. Elias ; not a sin- gle drift tree was noticed. We were within the white water alK)ut two miles, which 1 am now satisfied flows from the ice, but why it ])reserves its uniformity of strength and direction is yet a problem to be solved."* Mount St. Elias is one of the most remarkable features of northwest America. It is a noble conical mountain, rising far into the clouds, and although in a climate far from temperate, and of such an elevation as to lead to the conclusiim that it rinses far into the limits of perpetual snow, yet Sir Edward Belcher says: "Its edges, to the very summit, present a few black wriiikles, and the depth of snow does not, even in the drifts, appear to be very deei). It stands, sis it were, as before men- tioned, upon the summit of the lofty range which nujs parallel with the sea-coast." Its elevation, according to angular measurement, is fourteen thousand nine hundrcth of August, 17 H, the name being applied from the saint to whom that day is dedicated. Its latitude is 00^ 18' north, longitude 140^ 52' west. Pamplona Kock, &c. — According to some infornmtion given to Van- couver's i)arty by the Russian otticers be nu»t here, there is a very dan- gerous rocky shoal, about flft«»en miles in length, lying by compass in a direction south by west, sixty-three miles from a place called by them Leda llnala. This Mr. l^uget conceivi'd to be near the point called Point Hiou. The Russian oflic^er, Portotf, hiniself, had been on the shoal taking s<'a-otters, and stated that the first i>a- i*ently very shoal, and from the quantity of white muddy water tluit flowed from it into the sea it was conclnded to iMi the tmtlet of the floods formed on the low land by the dissolving ice and siiow on the sides of the neighboring mountains, which, at that season of the year, (midsununer,) nuist be copious, as the temperature was generally between 50° and (550, and the elevated jvarts of the coast were still covered with snow as low down as where the pine trees began to grow. From the west point of this bay, in latitnde charts ?ion. All lii« trantiit Iwarin^Hand other observations indicated this. A riv«fr apjxuirs to tlow near Cap« Kuckliug, which Jja« not b»'«'n noticed. — Voyage of the Sulplmr, vol, i, p. 175. t Voyage of the Sulphur, vol. i, pp. 75, 76. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 71 X)oint8 of view, appears like a mined castle. Towards the sea the islfiiul terminates in a kind of bare, sloping cliffs, with a narrow, stony l)each at their foot, and interrnpted with some gnllies, in each of which is u rivnlet or torrent, and the whole surmonnted with a growth of smallish pine trees. " Kaye's Island, viewed from the eastward, presents the appearance of two islands. The southern is a high table-rock, free from trees or vegetation, and of a whitish hue; the other is moderately high land for this region, with three bare peaks, its lower region being well wooded. "At dawn the snowy ranges of mountains, from the termination of Montagu Island as far as Cape Suckling, or in the direction of Kaye's Isljind, were entirely free from clouds or vapors, a sight not common in these regions, and generally a warning for bad weather," (Sir Edward Belcher, vol. i, p. 70.) ' ♦ WiNGHAM Island. — Off the northwest point of Kaye's Island is Wing- ham Island, and off its northeast point. Point Mesurier, are some-ele- vated rocks. Witliin these, and to the northwest of Cape Suckling, is t'Omptroller's Bay, which is shoal, and extends twenty miles northwest- ward to Point Hey. Wingham Island, which can be seen to nearly its whole length between Caiw?) Suckling and Point Le IMesurier, (the north part of Kaye's Island,) is moderately elevated, rising in three hummocks, which are bare on their summits. The southern at a distance, owing to the lowness of the neck, appears separated. The whole is well clothed with trees. (Sir Edward Bel<;her.) Fkince William's Sound was first explored by Captain Cook in his last voyage.* Although this extensive inlet was before known to the Eussians, the coast took him ten days to traverse, 11th to 21st May, 1778, a week of wjiich was spent in the inlet; but, from the subsequent survey of Captain Vancouver, it was found that no portion of his cele- brated predeces.sor'8 labors was so defectively described and delineated as this, which leads to the 8up[)ositiou that some important authority has been omitted in drawitug up the narrative, which would not have occurred had the unfortunate circumnavigator survived to superintend its publication.t From the njinute examination which was made of it by Vancouver, it proved to be a branch of the ocean that reciuires the greatest circumspection to navigate; and although it diverges into many extensive anus, yet none of them can be considered as commodious harbors, on account of the rocks and shoals that obstruct the aj)proache8 to them, or of the very great d<^ptli of water about their entrances. Of the former innumerable were discovereil, which led to the supposition that many others existed. * Piiiu'o Williain's Souixl, niid ]»artic'iilarly it.s iinrthfiwt |mrt, w.w visitcMl by Sour Fidalgo, in I7IK), for tb<» ]>urp Kin;; (ieorgu and (jueeii Charhitte, in and HuhHe«piunt to 17d5, wtiro undertak4!n for thiM eomitany. t Upon Garden iHhind, Cai>tain Hehdier found a line that whh marked hy Portloek, July '22, 1787, and wiw very nearly dchtroyin^t it. (Belcher, vol. i, p. 7:1.) At present the idlund is covered with piuu trees, without muuy traces of the garden. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 73 mciit of the Imperial Russian Fur Company consists of the official resi- dent, eight Russians, and fifty Aleiitian and other allies. The houses are included in a substantial wooden quadrangle, furnished at its sea angles with two octagonal turrets, capped in tlie old English style, and pierced with loop-holes and ports; the summits of the lines are armed with spikes of wood. It is calculated to stand a tolerable siege, under deter- mined hands. The sleeping apartments, or ' 'tween decks,' as we should term them, are desperately lilthy. The whole range is warmed by Dutch ovens, and the sides, being eighteen inches in thickness, are well calcu- lated to withstand the cold, as well as to defy musketry. "The native allies, who live in huts outside, are filthier than the Esiiuimaux; arising, doubtless, from their life of inactivitj', resulting from doubtful dependence. I was taken through the fish and oil estab- lishment, which was inches deep in hardened filth and seal oil, and thence to the room containing peltry. I was much disappointed at the quality of the furs. They comprised sea-otter, sable, rat, squirrel, fox, bear, wolf, seal, and beaver, verj^ large and heavy. The only desirable skins were those of the sea otter and sable, and they were not first-rate. As it is strictly forbidden to sell anything, and our visit bound us in honor not to perndt anything of the sort, I felt little inclination to remain in this valuable repository."* Port Etches might furnish a most complete harbor, if vessels frequent- ed these regions, or a station should ever be required in so high a lati- tude. The currents, however, between it and Mo'itagu Island render it difficidt to ai)proach; and the Russian commandant stated that many sunken ro«;ks (but perhaps of ten or fifteen fathoms) lie off" Cape Hinchiu- brook. Cai)tain Belcher's observations make Vancouver nearly as much in error in longitude as he ascribes to Cook.t Phipps Point, the northeast or opposite extremity of the i)eninsula, on which is the Russian establishment, is placed by Sir Edward Belcher in latitude (JO^ 21' 12" north, longitude UVP 50' 15" west. High water, full and «;hange, Ih. loui. ; rise, nine and a half feet. Variation, 31° 3S' east. Hawkins's Island is to the northeast of Hinchinbrook Island, and is about twenty mileslong, northeast and southwest. On its southern side is the channel before mentioned, which is contracted by the sand-bank on the southeast shore to a narrow channel against the southern shore of the island. Off the entrance of the passage, between the west end of Hawkins's Island and Hinchinbrook Island is a shoal, and in the passage are some islets and roc. s. On the nortii side of Hawkins's Island is Port Cordova, an arm extend- ing from its northwest point about thirteen miles in an easterly direc- tion. Within these limits are a bay and a small l>ra;ich, in which are sevend rocks and rocky islets. These shores arc in general low, ending * Sir Edward Belcher, vol. i, p. 73. t Ibid. vol. i, p. 74. *", '' ^ ■' .WW"' P i- ^if»i}wnw^m,^ ^mmj^m^v .'" 74 ALASKA DIRECTORY. in pebbly Reaches, where shoal water extends some distance, and ren- ders landing at low tide very unpleasant. To the northward is I'ort Gravina. The southeast point of its entrance is placed by Vancouver in latitude 00° 41', longitude 140° 11 J'. To the southwest of it are an islet and some rocks. Its northern shore extends from its west point east five miles, and then east by south one-half south twelve or thirteen miles, affording some small coves, with rocks and islets lying off it, and then turns to north-northeast for four and one-half miles to its termination. Its east and south shores are encumbered with islets and rocks. Snug Corner Bay is on the northwest end of the peninsula separating Ports Gravina and Fidalgo. Its west point is in latitude 00° 45', longi- tude 140° 35'. " And a very snug place it is ; I went, accompanied by some of the officers, to view the head of it, and we found that it was sheltered from all winds, with a depth of water from seven to three fathoms, over a muddy bottom. The land near the shore is low, part clear and part wooded." — (Captain Cook, vol. ii, p. 361.) Port Fidalgo is so named after the Spanish commander who visited it in 1790. It extends in a winding direction to latitude 00° 55', longi- tude 145° 48'; its width being about two miles, and its length twenty- eight miles. Towards its upper end are some islands, and its shores are in general low, bounded by a pebbly beach, and pleasingly diversified by trees. A small inlet rins in, two miles in a north-northeast direction, at the northwest point of Port Fidalgo; and south-soutwest one-half west four and a half miles from its west point is the south end of Bligh's Island ; between this island and the main land are some islets and rocks. The shores are also rocky. Bligh's Island is seven miles long north-northeast and south-southwest, and some islands off its north end form the southern side of the entrance to Puerto de Valdes. Puerto de Valdes was so named by Seuor Fidalgo, and extends northeast by north for twelve miles, where a small brook, supplied by the dissolving snow and ice, flows into the arm, and from thence extends five miles in an east direction to its termination, in shallow water. Its eastern shores are indented with small bays, and lined with nx'-ks and islets. The port is from half a league to a league in breadth. Its west point is called Point Freemantle, and is in latitude G0° 57', longitude 146° 49'. This inlet was thought by some of the party under Captain Cook to form the entrance to an inlet extending indefinitely to the northeast, but which opinion was controverted (justly) by others. Southward of Port Freemantle is an island seven miles long, in a south- west by west direction, and a league broatl; within it is a passage half a league wide; and on its continental shore are two bays; that immedi- ately north of Point Freemantle is the larger of the two, with an island in the northeast corner. "It is a circumstance not uuwort hy of remark in these bays, so near as they are to each other, that the eastern one pre- sents a southern and the other a southeastern aspect; and that the western- fn an sti til nal twf del coj pel ALASKA DIRECTORY. 75 l»y the (Is five r. Its ka and ts west ule 146° a south- age half iinmedi- n island ■ remark one pre- western- most should be nearly free from ice, while the easternmost, with a full south expostire, should be terminated by a solid body of compact elevated ice; both being equally bcjuded at no great distance by a continuation of the high ridge of snowy mountains." — (Vancouver, vol. iii, p. 185, June, 1794.) In passing the eavSternmost of the bays, the thundering noise of the falling (or caving) of large masses of ice was heard. • Westward of the island before mentioned is an arm extending about four leagues to the north, and terminating at the foot of a continuation of the range of lofty mountains. Its upper parts were much encumbered with ice, (.June, 1704,) as were both sides of it with innumerable rocks and some islets. It is, in general, about a league wide, and its western (!oast terminates to the south or Point Pellew, and from this the coast takes an irregular direction, about west-southwest ten miles, toward the east point of a passage leading northward. The shores which compose this extent of coast are formed by a low border of land extending from the base of the nu)untains, much indented by small bays, and at high tide greatly intersected by water. It produces a few dwarf trees and other insignificant vegetable productions, and, like other parts of the continent bordering upon the sound, is bounded by small islands, islets, and rocks, extending as far as the eye can discern, rendering the progress of the boats tedious and intricate. From the i)oiut before mentioned a channel extends about three leagues in length to the northwest one-half north. This in some places is a mile, and in others not a quarter of a mile broad; its west side formed by Esther Island. Four miles north from its further end is Point Paken- ham, which is the southwest point of Port Wells. This extends in a north-northeast direction, and terminated in a firm and compact body of ice, but, at the time of the visit, was so encumbered with floating masses of ice that it was highly dangerous to proceed in it. Here the party witnessed the falling of three tremendous bodies of ice from the clifts, the shock of one of which was sensibly felt, though two leagues distant. To the west of the point is another but unimportant bay. Hence the coast pursues a southerly direction five leagues to Point Pigot. The continent is here composed of a stupendous range of snowy mountains, from whose base low i)rqjecting land extends, jutting out into points, and forming the shores, which are thinly wooded with dwarf pines and stunted alders. Point Pigot, and Point Cochrane, opposite to it, form the entrance to Passage Canal. The principal branch extends from Point Pigot west thirteen miles, and then southwest by south four miles further, termi- nating in latitude 60° 48'. Here the head of the inlet reaches within twelve miles of Turnagain Arm^ at the head of Cook's Inlet, hereafter described. On either side of the isthmus the country appeared to be composed of lofty, barren, impassable mountains, enveloped with per- petual snow. The isthmus itself is a valley of some breadth, which, 7« ALASKA DIRECTORY. thou^li containing elevated land, was very free from snow, (in June,) .and appeared to be perfectly easy of access. By it the Russians, and Indians also, connnunicated with either of these extensive sounds. The other branch extends two andahalf lea<;ues west-southwest from Point (Joch- rancj which is one and a half mile south from Point ]M{;()t. Eight miles east by south from Point Cochrane is Point Culross, and immediately east of the former is a large bay, about three miles deep, terminating in' a boundary of frozen snow and i(!e, reaching from a compact body of lofty frozen mountains to the water's edge. JJero it was singular that the shores between these icy bays are mostly composed of a border of very low land, well wooded with trees of the i>ine and alder tribes, stretching from the base of stuijciulous mountains into the sea. Otf Point Culross is an island about a league from the shore, and about four miles long; and following the coast southward for six nules, we arrive at an opening about two miles wide, leading to thi\'e small branches, two of them taking a southerly and the third a northwesterly course. From the south point of the entrance, eleven miles along a shore broken into small bays, lined by innumerable rocks, and exposed <^o the ^vhole range of the northeast swell from the sound, brings you to Point Nowell, in latitude 00° 27'. Between this coast and the ocean is a considerable number of large islands, which lie generally in a north-northeast and south-southwest direction. The coast of the continent runs, but in a very irregular man- ner, in the same direction to Cape Paget, in latitude 59° 55', longitude 148° 3', this being tlie point where the shores of the main land form the seaward face. The continental coast will be first described ; then the islands before it. From Point Nowell the main coast turns to southwest one-half south for about eleven miles, to a point where an arm extends first northwest, and then terminates to the south, in a circular basin full of rocks; but about midway between the point and this are two arms extending par- allel to each other, and four miles long, in a northwest direction. Before this coast is an island, following its direction at two miles distant, and three and one-half leagues hmg, forming a passage, but so full of rocks that it is only navigable for boats or canoes. Five and one-half mih's southeast from the south point of the arm first mentioned is Point Countess, in latitude 00° 1.3'. Immediately west of it is an opening leading southward, and terminating in two small arms, a league within the entrance. Still further west is a bay about four and one-half miles deep, tenninating in a compact body of ice that descended from high perpendicular clitt's to the water-side. The coast southward of Point Countess forms the northwest side of a narrow channel, eleven miles in length, in a southwest one-half west direction. It is in most parts less than a mile broad, and there are several sunken rocks in it. Its shores are comi)08ed of steep rocky mountains. The north point of the i lo isl 17! IIU) tiiii ot) tb. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 77 Ml tlie Before nt, and f rocks f miles Toint )peuing within f miles •m high )f Point miles in iirts leas s shores of the southern end of this strait* is 7^>int Waters; it has some roeks and breakers before it. This point is on the eastern side oi INirt IJaiubridge, an inlet from tlie ocean, extending eighteen miles in length from its entrance, in a north direcition. Its termination is in latitude OOo i;{^', in a small tiact of low land, before Avhich are some rocks. Froyi its being directly open to the ocean, althongii at this distance from it, the wind, when it sets up or down the channel, sends such a violent sea upon it that lainling is dangerous. V< .nt l*yke, on the western side, is six miles from Point Waters; it is remarkable for its sugar-loaf form. Between them are two bays, surrounded on all sides by lotty, abrupt, snowy mountains. South-soutlieast, five miles from Point Pyke, is Point Elrington, the southeastern i)oiiit of Port Bainbridge, and the south- westernmost i>art of a high, rugged cluster of islands. It is a high, steep, barren i)romoutory of small extent, connected to the island near it by a narrow isthmus, which was covered with various kinds of sea- fowl. Between these points are some bays, and a large opening leading northeast, with many rocks al)out the shores, just .above water. Oppo- site to Point Elrington is Cape I'uget, before mentioTU'd, on the main land. The western shore of the poi northward of Cape I*uget, is com- pact, although somewhat indented with snmll luiys and coves. The island of which Points Elrington and Pyke form a portion is high and rugged, and about six leagues in lengtli, in a general nortli- iu)rthea8t direction. Latouche Island lies otf its eastern si«le, separated by a channel half a league broad. Its northern point is nanuMl Point Grace. Knight's Island lies to the northward of these, and is upwards of nine leagues in length in the same direction; and beyond this, again, are some others of less dimensiims. Between this and Montagu Island is Green Island, so named by Cook, in May, 1778^ from its being entirely free from snow, and covered witli wood and verdure. The islands near the open sea are, as before stated, elevated and rocky; tl ose within are low ones. Otf the north point of Green Island, a league or a league and a half noith, are some ledges of rocks, some above and others under water, making it very unsiife plying in this neighborhood. Montagu Island is the largest and principal island of Prince Wil- liam's Sound, it being, a(!Cording to Vancouver's survey, forty-six nnles in length, from southwest by south to northeast by north ; its average breadth is about two leagues. Its south point is in latitude 59° 40', longitude 147° 30'. The passage on the inside, or to northwest of the island, forms an entrance into Prince William's Sound, between it and Lsitouche and Green Islands, of course varying in breadth. *It wjis in this Mtrait that Vautouver's party encountered a violent Htonn, June, 1794; a very heavy gust of wind brought down from a coiiHideralde heiglit on the mountain Hide an immeurte nniHs of earth, trees, and frozen snow, whieh fell at a dis- tance not exceeding a hundred yards from th« nsMenihled luirty. They observed iu other places the efl'ects of similar storms, whieh will serve as a warning to any outj on these shores. 78 ALASKA DIRECTORY. At sixteen miloa from the Koiitli end of Montapn Inland is Point Bazil, in latitnde 00° 1'. To the nortli of tliis are tolerably jjood Miiindin^s. on the islanil side of the channel, while to the Houthward ot it no bot- tom could be retiched with Hixty or eighty fathoniM within a mile of the shorje. The two bays, one named by I'ortloek ITanninfj's Bay, and the other M'Leod's Harbor, are stated by Mr. Whidbey to be very exposed anchorages, and nothing more than stopping places in navigating this channel. M'Leod's Harbor is thus described by Captain Tortlock: "It may not be amiss to observe that all ships . 'fining into this harbor ought to keep the shore of Montagu Island on board as close as they can ; for if they get ofl:' into the channel, and over toward the west shore, they will soon bring sixty, seventy, and eighty fathoms wat«'r, and that depth too close inshore for anchoring." M'Leod's Harbor is ten miles within the southwest point of Montagu Island. Its outer points. Point Bryant on the south, and Point Wood- cock on the north, are about two miles apart, and Joined by a bank of seven and eight fathoms, black sand and mud, within which is a deitth of twenty-one to twelve -fathoms. Within it takes a turn to the north, around a point which is quite bold-to, and nuiy be passed close. A ship can lie in four ami a half or Ave fathoms water, with the south point of the bay just shut in with this point, at about a cable's length from the shore."* Port Chalmers, on the west side, and toward the north end of Mon- tagu Island, is in latitude 00° 10' north, longitude 140° 50'; variation, in June, 1794, 28° 30' east. Vancouver says: "The place of our anchor- ing in Port Chalmers can oidy be considered as a small cove, on a rugged rocky coast, so very diftlcult of access or egress that our utmost vigi- lance in sounding was unequal to warn us of a rock (oft' the harbor's mouth) on which the ship groululed." Stockdale's Harbor, too, is only a bay full of rocks, and of course not worthy of particular attention. The shores about Port Chalmers are in general low, and very swampy in nmny places, on which the sea api)eared to be making rapid encroach- ments, the remains of the forests being seen below high-water nuirk. The trees around are not very luxuriant, but make rather a dwartish forest. The only tish obtained were a few indifferent crabs from the sliores; a little wild celery, and excellent spruce beer, nniy be procured from the land. Ott" the entrance to the harbor are several lurking rocks, which make its approaAi very dangerous, as before stated. In front of the entrance to the harbor is a z: ..11 woody islet, lying about a mile fi»m the point forming its entrance. The South Passage Rock lies from the north point of the harbor west something less than a m"ie distant, and from the snmll woody islet north by west one-half west about three-quarters of a mile. To the north of til- th! •Portlock, pp. 206,207. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 79 tVoui [or west »t north Urtli of this is the North Pnssnge Kock, lyiiij; from the iiortli jioitit of tho linrbor north-iiortliwest oiic-iiuartJ'r west two and a lialf iniloH distant, and w«'.st- southwest tlirpepearan<'e as far as Pie's Islands, tlu^ south extreme of the southern- most of whi(!h lies in latitude oiP lU', longitude 145P 51'. This island, in several points of view, forms a very conspicuous i>eak; md although not remarkable for its great height, yet, from its singular appearance, it is not likely to be mistaken in this neighborhood, as it descends- with gi-eat regularity from its summit to the water's edge. A group of rocks, lying west by south one-quarter south, four miles from it, must be very dangerous in thick weather, as it is probably covered at high water, spring tides. Between Pie's Islands and Point Gore, a distance of eighteen miles, the coast is in nu>st paits very mountainous, and descends ratlier (piickly into the ocean, excepting in those places wi.ere it is lu'oken into vallcs, some of which are extensive. In the inteival are two openings, and several low, detached i>ar<'ols of rocks lie at a greater dista?u;e from the land than usual on this i)ai't of the coast. Point Gore is placed by Vancouver in latitude rti)^ IP, longitude (cor- rected) ir)()o 22'. Towanls the st»a this lu-qjecting pionumtory termi- nates in an abrupt clitf, moderately elevated, an«l is connected to the nuiin laud by a low peninsula «!Overed with trees. To the westward of the point is Port Dick, tlescribed by Portlo(;k. Cape Elizauetii is the southeast point of the mouth of C(M»k's Inlet. It is phu'ed by Vancouver in latitude .V.io '.y, longitude (corrected) 1510 18'. Tlie coast here is composed of high land, before which lie three small islands and some rocks. The cape is itself the largest of these, and the westernmost of them. They apiiear to attbrd a navigable chan- nel between them and the land, nearly in an east and west directi<»n. Hut this is somewhat doubtful ; for between the cape and the middle island some low, lurking rocks were discerneing connected with a cluster of rocks above tlu! surface, lying stuitheast one-half east three or four miles from the cape. To the southwest of the middle isle is another cluster of rocks, both alK»ve and below the water's surface. Port Ciutiiam, so named by Vancouver from his tender, is situat<'d behind the island which forujs Cape Elizabeth, and from that pronu)n- tory extends to a point in a northeast direction fi\ e atid a half miles, ami from thence it termiiuites in an excellent harbor, about two miles long IVoui west to east, and one broad north and south, affording seeun' ami convenient anchorage. The passage into it, i)assing to the mu'thwest of Cape Elizabeth, is free from all obst ■ 'i'.^as but su<'h as are suHlciently conaj»ieuous or easily avoide{>H in Fort i)hatinui\ are toierably si'jtrnlir — from tlve to twenty five iathoiuSy (he hotlom it .stift't h»y. Tiie rthoren in most phuies are a low border, very \v«'H wooi' vhe nei^iliboviu^v joiuilry, up which, to a certain 'leijyht, trees and otJM'r vegvhiblen* uvre pro^hscKHL But their more elev;t*.(l insrtH appeared t«> be bavn'^, ai,\' ea.st, The n,se and fall of the tide, near the chanj>e of (\u^ jxoivm), w<^re fourt"*M( feet, b\!it dnriiiff neap tides not more thaii ten ux eleven feet; Jii;:;!! water Mbomt an honr after the moon had passed the meridjan. lbs! this, and other circumstances relative to the tides, were found to beyreatly inlSueneed by the form and direction of the winds. Tlie 8UaatJt)n of tliw hjnl.K>r in respect Ui its vicinity to the ocean, ita free acceMs wwd es;res8, and con- venient conuaunication with the shore, was < oiLsidereil by IMlr, J'Ui^et !« be equal, if not superi(U', to the generality of the ports vmUed in thftse ref^ions. The Russian estublishnu'ut, Fort Aiexundroffi'k in iu a ba> to the westward of I'ort Chatham. K Inlet. ) 1510 three these, chan- . Hut isbuid nee of itheast t (►f the water's tuated iromtm Ics, and es long ire and west of Iciently ds that side of COOK'S INLET. ;'oi(NT Ukuk, so named by Coi^k, May 2(1, 1788, i8 a (ofty pruinontory, and from this the <'oast trends noitheast by east, with a chaisi <»f luouu- tains iidand exteiuling in the same direction. The land on the const m woody, and thei»> seemed to be no dellciency of harbors. (Juaham's IIauhou is seven ndles from Point IJede. "(Jndijiia's harbor," says Captain Portlock, '* 1 found a most excellent ii\w iiuieed, with great pleidy of wood everywhere, and several line runs of water. For a ccmsiderable distance it runs up nearly east southeast, and then trends rather to the southward, with fourteen fathoms water over a bot- tom of muddy sand. The east side atVords plenty of black bircli ami other kinds of wood, which grow close to a beach where tlu^ Ixnits uld have easy access." The entrance, according to l*ortlock''.8ket.d a half mile out, antl Coal Hay on the north, tour or five miles apart. In the entrance is Passage Island, on either side of whi(;h is an optMi channel. From this it runs up about nine miles to the east seach, aUatt the middle of the bay, and with very little trouble several large ])ieees were g<»t out of the bank* The best time to run into this harlior is as near low water as possible. Whatever danger there is nuiy then be seen, either from beds of kelp or the rocks showing themselves alune water. Tscu()U<»AT8('HoiK Bay lies t-o the northeast, and its northwest extremity is Ane Ibudy conneet^ed by land less elevated, and foriinng a dee|> i>ay lietween the cape aiul the lower iMmlers of Onchouganat Island, or Mount St. Augustin. The shores of this bay, liourdieu's Bay, in numt directions se<»*m ciunpaet, Init eneund>er«'d with large rtK^ks and stones; tiie depth ol water acioss it north and south is from nine to twelve fathoius. The i»oftr, is a very renuirk able island, rising with a uniforra ascent from the shores to its loft\ summit, which is nearly |H'rpeinlicular, to the center of the islnnd, ineiin ing s<»mewhat to its eastern side, and IsMiig in latitude riH^L!!;'. iongttusKil>l**. lieip or nthwent vd'ina to on «ixty i«t of tin* KnTGLAK. IjpOHfd «»t k«ry lot^> (• tht^ land [' tlu't:tt«e U'.ft. to th*' 5iorth»^iu u|>iU't, inU IMMUHH it >!' til*' <>n> I) is«' oi' tin |r,s TiMnjirk it« lotY> |i»iKl,im'lin lonfritn<4. H*'a-Ni!«>ntiJ5K nearly the same ai)pearanee frtaii every jxtint of ^ iew, and elotfu*! with snow and ice down to the water'K edj^e, thron^li whieh neither tree nor >»hrwb was seetj to protrude. Landinj; on it is dittieult. frrnn the *eks, \vhie!», however, extend furtlies! oti the mvrth side i>t the island, ^rhe \viays, thnt appear lik««l.v t<» afford Hcenre anehon^jje. Tlu^ points of these bays !»iv oi j»«Mn'rHl - < ep and rocky, and briujitl the coafit rises a <■ 'itinnation of the l.»fty mnjfe, extending from (ape Douglas, chol in j>erpetu;d snow, isi lalitude ")tK' 42' are three islets, apiinst tlie whore, i»ehiud \hich tlicjv is npiHMirance of anchorage and shelter. There is nothini;? renuis kable ou the coant* until we couw to the northward of latitude (It)", whei*e there are two openings, the northern of which is the princi[>a!. It runs to the w»'Ht,aiid then Honrhw<*.st towards the foot of a eonspi<'uonM voh'suio, which lies in latitude % !o!i>.Hrude !r»'J' W, Tiie southwest part of the nounrth\vest sidts rowjirds its soutiiwest e."x treusity. The snow, whi(;h was lyinjji' very d«'ep on the grouuil, (April 17. 1794, 1 *«»sihm'd their walk to the IwHch, on which was lodged «ome suiall drift-woiMl, and on it they foutnl some pieces of coal, re»<'m!i)ti!>«^ < MJiiiel coal, rise more impitrtsint part of this isl-.unl to the navigator is ;i danfjerons Hhoal, which extends, in its direction from the (Mmthweat ' Thf vvt(utL«-r now, (Ajuii 18, 171M,)Mu>HKtM'xl^^roiue}y cold, (the luert'iiry Mtaii'tiiiK »t tlkV.) wttM vt-ry uniUuj; n?};'"*''' <<»»'- puNmi, ikt. a hitlr iliittii.iu'i' iVoiM tJic rivt'v, ofHtu|kciiiiM't>ial xinM't ol i«i> luiil mmw, jm'wiifid h lut^siMTt, thotigli iiiiiKiufiroutly jfrat|»(H«un«d th«» ^olrnixf, ntvnv rhc (4ni»mi* of wlilrli, fniin two diHtim-t onit^'ra on itMHonth «')»»ttt«rn wldo, w«rv < ii(i((<'j>m«'d i>y wHt»f un Utiuii, It watt viijM>r .inwnjt fjnni Iwd *|uiiijtH i>» vl»at uoi|{i)lH)rluHid ; bnl how tai thin )»H(,|i'«'tur(> \vu« r.«>n«it*t<'iit with tlit< Hf>v«i'ity of tin- rliin;it( i»t tin- loji of that iotty luoiiHtaiii in uolt withia Jh«" limits of uiy judjjnn-nt to d*-tt rniuii*. ; Van('oijv>'r, Ml. iii, p. M9.) If ■1 %i Ml I If I I I! tr 84 ALASKA DinKCTOKY, 91' II if' end, for the diatarux^ oi' at IfOMt two leHj^ues. VaiK'xjuver crossed it in four fathoms at a league from it« south eMtroiuity. j-'roiij the great variety of soundiugH on }>a»^«iin{? over it, it apiiwirs to be very uiieveii, a« in .several instances the ship struck violent I , when the rise und fall of the waveN were by mt fueans etjual to the depth .shown by the lead. It is not improbable thiit it may have some, of the iniuunerablo large fragments of roek lodged on it which are to be found on t)»e shores of the island. If so, it is infinitely more dangerous than a mere spit of Band to contend with. This shoal coiitinues all .dong the southeast shore of the island to two miles distance off it. Abreast of the southwest point, o«i the west shorty is Point Harriet, which is a moderately high steep eliU'. The shore on either side of it is a low beaure has so)ae extensive shoals. On one of these "Vancouver grounded, it lies oti the middle of the ishunl, and stretches to the nortliward. It is between si.>t und seven miles from the nuiin land, ami i8 near a league from the west side of the island, where a Hat (extends some distance into the river. Beyond thin the shores of the river are comparatively low, or only moderately elevated, jutting out into three rennirkable steep clitfy points, named the East, West, aiid North Forelands ; ihe two foran>r forming the narrows. Between the northeast end of Coulgiaek Island and the cen- ter of the Narrows is a shoal, observed by Messrs. Portlock and Dixon. It is of very snuiU extent, and bears Irom the point northeiust one quar- ter east, six milew distant. The West For<'land is in latitude 0(P 41'/, h)ngitude 15Jo 12', and is about eight and t half miles nearly dm) west from tlu^ Fa.st Foreland. At the distance of about a nule otf tlu". former, the .soundings are from seven to twelve fathoms. A rmik that is visible only at half tide lies about the fourth of a mile fro»v. the extremity of the point. Between the West T oreland and the North Ft)reland, both of which are on th" western shore, the coast forms a spacious open bay, called by Portlock, Trading Bay. Shallow w ater extends Irom the fornu'r to within alHUit five leagues of the latter point, from w hence a depth of live fath- oms will be found close to ihv uuiin land. The southeast shore eastward of the E^ist F«)reland forms a shallow bay, betwt'en it and a point six miles mntheast by niu'th above it, with s«tundingH of s«'ven and eight fathoms within a convenient distance of the shore, sheltered from the east, south, and southwest winds, and not nuu'h exposed to those which blow from the opposite quartt^rs. Beyond this point, antl between it and a ]K»int lying stiven miles west-southwest from Point Possession, a distance of twenty -t>nemile.s, the outer bank formsa])er- fect labyrinth of coincal reel s, detached from ea«;hotherona bank of Hand h. At r he Cm i'oi ,f ALASKA DIKECTORY. 86 svhicli \\\vd l)y within V futli- ection in boats — with any hnp:e vessel it would be madnesH. Those dan^ei-ons pyramidal rocks rise perpendicularly fron» a base at the depth of tour to nine fathoms an join to the southern side of the shoid on which (!o(tk\s ship, the Resolu- tion, jjround ' in 177H, (vol. ii, ]>. IVM) ;) hence it nmst be considered as a fortanate cireumstanc^e that neither he uw V'anc«mver attrth from the I'^ast Foreland. The North Foreland is in latitude ii\^ 1', longitude lado ;j,V, and on it Vancouver found the Kuss'an factory, which t'onsisted of one large house, the resi«lence of nineteen Itusniaus, who had established it in 17tM). For two leaj;:ues to the north of this, alony the western shore, tolerable anchora«ije is tbnnd, and commodious ct»uimuni<-ation witli the shore, aboundinji with wotwl cl<>se to the water sitle, iind }itforetweeii f'oruiiuy: a low and per- fectly compact shore, without the smallest discernible o]>eninfj. Tarnagain Island lies at the head of the more extensive part of (look's Inlet. Its weHt eml is in latitude 01° S'. It is about three and a halt' miles long, e;ist northeast and west- nortli west, anve him beca»i«t'. at lo«- \vat*»r, a (Mie cesHion ••! <■ y sand banks, »»c(!upyinF th** whole of the >*]mi'e n^i to itw head, eigliteen miles further on, in i tnde <>Io 20' i AGAIN .V»M — The s«»tth#*r!inu»«t b?'s»neh is Mi»' priu^ijiftl. it wascHlIecl by < <><»k 1 trnagiMn Kivei. and bs Viinconver TiirnagaiM Arm, he having dwiiieft itf i"eal 'har»<*t>»v Its Mttrance li»'s i»ctwtoints they are three or four leajjues asuiuh>r, ea(!li side t'orniin^ a bay at high water, but their shores eannot be approached on ae(>ouut of the »halh)w flat that extends from the north side from three to tlve nules, and from the opposite shore about half the distance, between which is a channel one and a half leuf^ue wide; ))ut this is interrupted by a shoal, which dries in numy ))laces, one and a half league long, northeast and southwest, leaving a channel only half a league broad at its south end. The country bordering upon the bays between the outer and inn«T points of the arm is low, well wotxled. and rises with a gradual ascent until at the inner p«)int of entrance, when the sliores suddiudy rise to lofty eujineni^es, in nearly perpendicular clirts, and compose stupendous mountains, that are broken into chasms ami deep gullies. Down these rush immense tcurents of water, rendering the naked sides of these i>re- cipices awiully grand. On their tops grow a few stunted i»ine trees, but they ar(» nearly destitute of every other vegetable production. The tide here rises thirteen teet j)erpendicidarly, so that at low water the renuun- ing portion of the arm is dry, or lu'arly so. It extends twenty-two miles above these points, and thus approaches to within four leagues of the head of Passage ('anal, in the northw(^st«Mn part of Prince William's Hound. Across this isthmus the Kussians and Indians (u)mmunicate with these two extensive inland wati'rs, as tlu^re nu'iitioned. Vancouver found the time of high \vat«'r, at his northernmost jioint in the n<)rtheastern arm, to be ab«)ut six hours after the moon pusses the meridian, and tin; rise and fall at springs he roughly estimated at about twenty-sev<«n feet. Like numy other extensive inlets which are closed at their ui»p«»r ends, (as, for examph>, the Hay of Fundy, and the Bristol Channel,) the great range of the tide at its head is to be acioiinted for by th«^ converging nature of the inlet, which lorces a nnich larger body of water into its upper portion. CUmsequentl.v the tidal current rushes with great v««lo(!ity, and Vancouver found the ebb running tlve and six knots, the tlood not much less, altove the Forelands. Lower down their velocity is propoitionably less. We have thus described the shores of this very extensive arm of the o<'ean. When Cook explored it in 177.S, lu' suppos<>«l that it might be navigatef its saltness, and therefore assumed that a v«»ry extensive inlan of usi'. either to the pirsent (»r lo any future age, the time we spent in it ought tln^ h'ss to be regretted. IJut to us, who haok havhi){ hero M\ a hlunk, which he hiwl n«»t HHcil up with any pmr- ti they were ^jranted in full possessi«m to a society of merchants loiincd from that of (-helig- lujft', and some other similar associations, undtir the title of the Uussiuu Anu'rican Company. The Kodiack Archipelajjo is composed of two princi))al isles, Kodiack »uid Afof^nack, and several smaller islets in their neij^hlxuhood. Kodiai'k (or ('adia<'k, as it is called by Lisiansky) is very mountainous, anre are few days whiirh may be calle is oidy to b<> found in the vicinity of the harbor of St. I'aul and fuither to the northwaid of it. Sonu' culinary plants, as cabl)ag<'s, turnips, potatoes, &c., hav«> be«'n cultivate*! since the Ivussians have been here, but not generally throughout the islands. The dark and rainy weather is unfavorable to horticulture. The native animals are few, ctmsisting of bears, foxes, «'rniines, &<;. liirds are nuich more numerous, bot n in nund)ers and variety. Kodiack also abounds in fish, which are halibut, cod, flouiulers, iK:c., anber, in such id)und- * Cook's Thinl Voyag.', v«.l. ii, p. SSMI. f 1, 88 ALASKA DIRECTORY. ance that liiindrodH inny be cau{;ht in u short time witli the liaixlH only. The tnai'iiie auiinals were formerly inii(;li iriore huiikm-oiih, but I'roiri the iii(1i8criiniiiate Hhuif^liter they liave been nnurh thinned. This, how« ver, from tlie l>etter system pursned, is h'ss manifest tlian formerly. Fur Heals wer(^ formerly one t>f the staple ]>rodncts of tlu' {jronp. The ))opnlation is snuill, <'on)pared witli the size of the island. We have no recent aeeonnts, but they were estinuittMl at a total of four thousand by Lisiansky, in 1805. It was stated that, previous to the arrivul of the Russians, (who are accused of very jjreat eruelti«!8 and oj)pressions,) it was more than dimble this. ('heli;;hotf stated that he sub- jected lllty t liousand men to the crown of Kussia. They resemble, in nmhy ])oiuts, the Indian naiives described in other pcntions of the Ameiican coasts, possessinj; much the sanu; features and many of the habits. One atrocious custom is that of men, called schoo])ans, livin<; with nu'n as women, to which they are educated from infancy. The inhabitants are almost ('iitirely occui»ied in the chase of the wild and fur-bearing animals, in the servi«'e of the Russian American Company.* KoDiAfiK, as before stated, is hi;ifli, hilly, and very much intersected. Its greatest diameter is about thirty leagues in a northeast and south- west direction, >mu1 its breadth nniy be assumed as fifteen leagues. Although we have not an exarit acipmintance with the whole of the island, its eastern portion is sutHi^iently well known, because the Ruk- siauAmerican Company send, lUMirly every year, some ships whicjli arc always conunaiuU'd by able officers, who sonu'times make a I'Mig stay here. Its western coast is nearly altogether unknown. The shore, on all sides of the island, is ind(>nted with a great number of large and deep bays, which contain excellent harbors. That of Ts«'hiniatskoy is the huj^est, and at the same time the most nnpcu'tant; tor it is in the bottom of this bay that the establishment of the Russian-American Company, foruu>rly the ])rincipal in the Pacific Ocean, lies. This is the town and harbor of St. Paul. It is, therefore, the only port fVecpu'uted by strangers, and we shall be more ])articular in its description. Th(;iii>jiatsk{)V Ray is formed by the cai)e of that name on the south, and Long or Barren (Sterile) Island on th east coast to the south of the bay, it becomes an infallible point of recogni- zance on approaching it. • Many partirulurs of tho (jrronp, in addition to tlioH(< oontainMl in the arronnts of the KiiH^ian dimovtiry l)y Dr. Coxo, and I'allaM, will hi' found in LisiaiiMky'H Voyimi', eltap. X, jiap' IIM) ct mq; UillinfJi'M Voyaj^o, by Martin !San«'i-; IjiiiKHdortV'H TravolH; ("ook'H Third Voya^f, vol. lit ; and Vancouver's Voya^jc, vol, iii. TIioho will frhv a good idea of tlio condition and roHoun-oH of thiH inluwpitahlu country. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 89 naiiu'd •o anerfect security until the w«'ather becomes more favorable. In case a vesst'l may have entered the bay, and the wiml will not allow her to follow the foregoing rlutely necessary that she should reach the ptut, she will iind a good shelter very near Ca|)e Kscarpe, (steep,) on tlu^ western side of the bay. In this case, after nearing the llorbun liock, run directly for this r anidtor in the outer road. Tiie best aneliora;;(^ is umh'r Woody IhIo, in tliirteen, fourteen, or lifteen fathoms, sand. Nearer the port the bottom i» of nmd, but here you are not 80 well shelt»'red as under Woody Isle. If you wish to enter the port under sail, you must take care of the contraiy current, or have jjood cables; the breadth of the harbor not allowing y<»u U> bear up, you must drop anchor when under way. In the Hunnuer it would be better to anchor in the road, mooring in the direction of the tis one lying in the southwest i)art of it. In the bay the Uussian Anu^rican Company have an establishment. In entering the bay, keep close to the south shore; the north is bestn'wed with rocks. Twelve miles to the south from Igatskoy Bay is Kihaulenskoy or Kihulen Hay, where the company also have an establishment. A«!Cord- ing to Lisiansky, it much n^semldes \ho. former bay, only that it is not so deep. It is properly composed of two bays, either of which att'ords shelter. In tlu' southeast part of Koint of this island. Two headed Point of Captain Cook is, as he supposed, on a small island, the position of which was determined by Vancouver, at eight u>iles southw<'st by west oiu' half west from the s»>uthw«'st point of 8altchi«lack Island. It is probnbly the sanu'- island that Admral Sarytschelf calls Nasikok, and according to him is distinguished by a high mountain, and is the northernmost of four isles that must Uv doubled before entering the Port of the Kpiphany. This accords with what Vancouver says, • Cook's Third Voyage*, vol. lit; uu(>ii Kodiurk and Haltt'hidack. The opening; of this is hovi'U niih'H wide; thcni aro two harbors in it on thr Kodiark shore; tli<» Hrst, callod Kiack, is opposite ( Knssian charts,) and ton iniloH north of tho fornuT 'u Nuyoumhick Hay. At a f(>w niih'H north of thiH hist is Epipliany Hay; it is small, only a milo in circ'nnifon'iicc, and sixty yards in tln'opiMiiii};. Tlio(h*ptli is tern, <'i};lit, s(>V(>ii, and four and a half fathoms, muddy bottom. The inhabit- ants call it Manikoks, and it was here that (Micli}>;hotf tlrst laiKhul, and Hillings remained some days, in 17JM). The «'liarts lu'icaliout are very «lefectivp, and re(|nire revision. Tlu^ southern jioint of Kodia«*k was called by Cook Cajn' Trinity. Tt was also placed by Vancouver. At eh'ven and a half miles south of Cape Trinity lie two isles, named by ('ook Trinity Isles ; they are so «'lose tojifether that they mifjht almost be considered as one island ; to;;('ther they are twelve lea^rues in lenjjth, east and west, and two or throe lea^jfues fn)in tluM'oast. On the UusNian (iharts the eastern is called Sitt-hunak; the western, Tuf»idack. The western shore of Kodiack, aUhoup:h the Uussian <'omi)any liave had it for many years, is, as before stated, but little known. To the north of Capo Trinity is Alitock Hay, where the company have an estab- lishment; the westernmost point of Kodiack, Cajx' Ykolik, in 57° 14' north, lies north-northwest one quarter west, thirty-ei;;ht miles from ('ape Trinity; and at ei;;hteen miles northeast of it is the company's estab- lishment, named (hirluck. It is from here that th(> baidaresd(>stined for tlu! opposite shore depart, the Strait of Cheli<»:liort"bein. To the ri}>htof it is a second bay, which is but ten miles d«'ep, to the northeast of which is Oiijjanick Isle. The northwest point of Kodiack, accordinj^ to liisiansky, is in latitude .■)7° 28', and twt) miles from this point li«*s the exti'eme.of North Island, which extends llfteen miles north-northwest and east-northeast. This is separat<% V ^>' /r> ^ /^ ;^ w w O 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 * t/. W- w. » 92 ALASKA DIRECTORY. called by the Eussians Evratschey, the name of a small animal very abundant there, from the skins of which the inhabitants make their parques, or fur shirts. This island is what Behring supposed to be the northeast point of Kodiack, and called it Cape St. Heruiogenes. Cook found it to be an island, and i)reserved Behring's appellation. The Trinity Bay of Cook lies between it and the northeast part of Kodiack ; but a better knowledge shows that the term is not applicable, though Cook did not doubt the existence of tlie north channel separating the islands. To the north of St. Hernu)genes are some rocks discovered by Cook.* CiiELEKHOFF STRAiT.t — Cook Called the north entrance of Chelighoft' Strait Smoky Bay. It separates Kodiack from the continent north of the Peninsula of Aliaska, and derives its name from the Russian com- mander who first brouglit the inhabitants of the adjoining countries under subjection. Up to a recent period the western side of the strait in question was comparatively uidiuown ; but in 18I52 it was examined and surveyed by Mr. Wassilieff, an officer of the Kussian navy, in the service of the llus- sian American Company, in baidares, and it is from the manuscript chart then drawn up that the charts have been corrected. They show that the strait is narrower than was at first sui)posed ; it does not exceed twenty- five or thirty miles. Cape Douglas, which has been before described, is the northwest limit of the strait, and from this point the survey extended to a bay in latitude 5VP 30', opposite to which are the Evdokeeff Islands. A great number of bays were examined by Captain Wasailieflt" within this space, which appears to offer good shelter. Of these it is only necessary to particularize one, that called Ponalo, in latitude 47° 40', longitude 155° 0' west, which is five miles distant from the great lakeNanouantoughat, from which tiie river Ougagouk flows. This river has been adopted by Krusenstcrn as the northern limit of the Peninsula of Aliaska. Here is the portage for the merchandise which the agents of the liussian Com- pany transmit to their establishment situated on the shores of Bristol Bay. The Peninsula of Aliaska is a remarkable tongue of land extending from the river Ougagouk, above mentioned, to the Strait of Isanotzky, separating it from Ounimak, the easternmost of the Aleutian Archipel- ago, an extent of three hundred and thirty miles; its breadth diminish- ing from ninety miles in the north to twenty-five miles in the southern parts. From its configuration it may be regarded as a continuation of the Aleutian Islands. In early times the knowledge of this land was most vague. Prior to Captain Cook's visit to Behring's Sea, the only geo- graphical authority was a curious map, evidently derived from oral infor- mation, on which the numerous islands and lands were distributed with *Cook'8 Third Voyage, vol. iii, p. 384. t Chelighoff, Kruseusteru. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 93 1 of the •i\s most mly geo- •al iiifor- ed with- out any regard to their actual relative size and position, but which car- ries with it some autlienticity, because nia^y of the names in it are now more definitely applied to known points. This map is prefixed to an account of these regions by Von Stichlin, in 1774.* It is also api)ended to Midler's Vovages from Asia, 17()l.t In tliese works tlie land in question figures as the large island of Alaschka, filling up a large por- tion of the space now known to be occu[)ied by Behring's Sea. The first authentic notice of its shores was that given in the account of the third and disastrous voyage of Captain Cook, who examined, though but very slightly, both sides of the peninsula at different })oiuts. His observations are but necessarily slight, from his having but imper- fectly seen the land. The southern side remained in tlie same imperfect state until the examination previously noticed, by Captain Wassilieft' in 1832. Its northern side, of which we shall speak hereafter, is somewhat better known. From the Bay of Poualo, the northeastern limit of the peninsula noticed above. Captain Wassilieff's examination extended to a large bay in latitude 50° 40', and abreast of the Evdokeeft" Islands. This bay has been named Wassilieii' Bay. Tlie space between Poualo Bay and this l)oint contains a great number of bays, and all along the coast are numer- ous islands, all of which are named on Captain Wassilieff's chart, but of which we have no especial description.! The EvDOKEEFi;^ ISLANDS Were discovered by Behring on August 4, 1741, and named by him in honor of the saint of the day. They form a group of seven islands, the three largest of which are called Simidin, Alexinoy, and Ageach. According to Admiral Sarytscheft", who passed between these islands, they are very close to each other, very high, and surrounded with rocks, some under Avater, others uncovered. It was geneially supposed thai the largest of these islands, Simidin, was the same as that which Cook named F(»ggy Island; but this is controverted by Krusenstern, who thinks that this is to be found between this group and the land. Captain Golownin did not see the large island of Simidin, but determined the position of the southernmost island of the group »8 latitude 50° 0' north, longitude 150° 22' west. St. Stephen's Island. — The following are Admiral Krusenstern's remarks on the islands of St. Stephen and Tschirikoff : " In the memoir accompanying the chart of the Kodiack Islands I have already said that Vancouver considered that the island named by him Tschirikott" was identical with Foggy Island§ of Behring; but as Cook and he have taken *An Accouut of the New Northern Archipelago, by J. Vou Sta'hlin. 8vo. London, 1774, t Voyajrcs from Asia, &c., by S. MUller. 4to. London, n*)]. t Captiiin Liitke states tha, M. Wassilieif 's journal was placed in his hands, but that instead of elncidating his <;hart, which seems to merit confidence, he absolutely found it to differ very grtiatly from his delineations. Not giving any particulars as to the nature, appearance, or productions of tlie cojtst, but little could be gathered from it. — Voyage du Sduiavine, Part. Naut., p. 274. ^ Tumannoi-ostrow c'est-iVdire, L'Isle Ndbuleuse. — Mllllor, p. 21)1. r .;v 7': 94 ALASKA DIRECTORY. difi'ereut islands for Foggy IsLmd, I hrjve attentively examined Behring's journal as to the position of this island, and this is what it says : *' During the night of the 1st August, 1741, Behring suddenly saw laud, and Hs a strong current, bearing to the south, accompanied bj' a thick fog and a calm, was carrying the ship directly on to the land, he was obliged to anchor in sixteen fathoms. On the morrow, at 8 a. ni., he saw that the land from which he was about four miles distant was an island which, in an east and west direction, was about three iniles in length; a reef iirojected for three miles oil" the east point, which bore east-southeast from him. At 8 p. m. he weighed anchor in a thick fog, which constantly hung over him, and on the following day at 7 a. m., he njade an island to the south at the distance of seven German leagues. Behring places this island in 55° 32', and gives it the name of St. Stephen, a name which has not been i)re8erved ; tliat of Foggy, by which it is now known, was probably applied to it by the officers of his ship, on account of the fogs which occurred at the time of its discovery. "The 4th of August he found himself near the Evdokeeff Islands, the southernmost of which bore to the south-southwest three-quarters west at twenty miles' distance; the latitude on this day is marked as 55° 45'. But we know that the Evdokeeff Islands lie in 56° 10'; it follows that Behring's latitude is nearly half a degree too far to the south ; if this error is applied to St. Stephen, we get latitude 50° 0'. Then if the lati- tude and extent of this island are com^j-ared with the latitude and size of Tschirikoff Island, which is t.'n leagues in circuit, it nuist be clearly seen that they cannot be identical, as has hitherto been believed ; and it is in consequence of this supposed identity that the island of St. Stephen has been entirely omitted from the charts. I will now prove that Cook, Vancouver, and Admiral Sarytscheff, have all seen an island where the island of St. Stephen ought to be placed. Cook makes no mention in his journal of this island, but it is found on his chart; and a passage in Vancouver, which I will presently quote, demonstrates that he saw it. Admiral Sarytscheff being, June 25, 1721, in the midst of the Evdokeeff Islands, observed in latitude 50° 10'. The day following he found himself in latitude 50° 20', and half a degree more to the east. It is stated in his journal for this day: 'At 1 o'clock p. m. we saw a low island to the south 50° east, at the distance of twenty-six miles, which bears the name of Oukamock ; the latitude of this island ought then to be 50° C' On the original draft of his voyage it is even placed in 50° 14'. The mean of these is 50° 10', which does not differ much from that of the St. Stephen Island of Behring, which was made to bear east one-half south, when the Evdokeeff Islands bore from south-south, west three-quarters west to west-southwest one-half west. " Vancouver obseived, Ai)ril 4, 1794, in latitude 55° 48', and longitude 154° 50'. Having run from noon to p. m. forty miles to north 05° 8ast, the latitude at this time would be 50° 5', and longitude 153° 50'. Trinity Island then bore north 10° east, and another island from west I ALASKA DIRECTORY. 95 au [ugitude J)rth G50 153° 50'. )m west one-half north to west by south. To judge by the hititude and the direction of the wind, this other island could be no other than the St. Stephen Island of Behring. On this occasion Vancouver remarks: ' The latter I took to be that which was laid down in Captain Cook's chart to the southwest of Trinity Island.' This land, though not noticed in Captain Cook's Journal, was seen and passed on its southern side by the Discovery in that voyage, which proves that the liesolution and Dis- covery could not have gone i\ir to the north of Tschirikoft"'s Island, which was obscured at that time by thick foggy weather.* " For these reasons I do not hesitate to assign a place in my chart for the discovery of Behring. I have placed it in 50° 10', and lo5° 213', to the north 150° west seven leagues from the northern point of Tschiri- kolfs Island, and I have preserved the name of St. Stephen, not only on account of its being the name given to it by Behring, but also because Foggy Island is given by Cook to another island."t Tsohirikoff's Island was, therefore, discovered by Vancouver, April 4, 1704, and nanu'xl by him after the companion of Behring. He states the circumstances thus : "The northeast point of the island bore by com- I^ass north 55° west, distant about two leagues ; its eastern extremity, which is a low, rocky point, and was our nearest shore, south 00° west two miles ; and its south point south 30° west, about two leagues dis- tant. In the point of view in which we saw the southwestern, southern, and eastern sides of this island, it appeared t form a so.newhat irregular, four-sided figure, about ten leagues in circuit, having from its western part, which is low and fiat, and which had the appearance of being insu- lar, a remarkably high, flat, square rock, lying in a direction south 00° west, at the distance of two miles, between which and the island is a ledge of snuiller rocks. The season of the year greatly contributed to increase the dreary and inhospitable aspect of the country ; in addition to which it seemed to be entirely destitute of trees or shrubs, or they were hidden beneath its winter garment of snow, which appeared to be very deep about its southeast parts, consisting of high, steep cliffs ; but on its western side, which was considerably lower, this appearance was not so general. About its shores were some small whales, the first we had noticed during this passage to the North."| A rock is marked on the charts to the southwest of the island of Sim- idin, in latitude 55° 50' ; evidently a different position to those recorded by Cook as having been seen June 16, 1778, a cluster of snuill islets, or rocks, lying about nine leagues from the coast, which would be in about latitude 56° 3', and longitude 158° 0' west. Of this part of the coast of the peninsula, as before stated, our knowl- edge is very scanty. Captain Cook, who is almost the only navigator who tells us anything about it, says : " For some distance to the south- west (of Foggy Cape) this country is more broken or rugged than any ' Vaucouver, vol. iii, p. t Knisensteni, part ii, pp. 105, 106. t Vaucouver, vol. iii, pp. 86, 87. ' 96 ALASKA DIRECTORY. part we had yet seen, both with respect to the hills theniaelvea and to the coast, which seemed full of creeks, or sinall inlets, none of which appeared to be of any great depth. Perhaps, upon acloserexamination, some of the projecting points between these inlets will be found to be islands. Every part had a very barren aspect, and was covered with snow from the summits of the hills down to a very small distance from the sea-coast." Choumagin Island. — This group, which is the next considerable collection west of the Elvdokeeff group, according to a notice inserted in the Memoir of Captain Liitke, is composed of flfteen islands and seven smaller islets. They received the name of Choumagin (Ohoumaguine) from Eehring, in memory of one of his sailors, who was buried here.* Admiral Sarytsch(?it', in his journal, names the two largest islands of the group Ounga and Nagay. The first, according to him, extends twelve leagues from north to south, with a breadth of seven leagues ; he places its northern extremity in latitude 55° 42'. The Island Nagay, with a similar directi(ui, is eight leagues in length. Besides the islands of Ounga and Nagay, Sarytschetf nan)es those of Kagai, Sajouliucktusigh, Nuinack, Tagh-Kiniagh, and Kiuniutanany : all these, and several others not named, lie very close together. Kagay Island, according to Saryt- schetf, ought to be placed in latitude 55° 5' north, and longitude 100° 33' west. Captain Golownin saw none of these islands except Tagh-Kin- iagh, which he places in 54° 5(>' north, and 159° 40' west. The Island Nuinack lies five leagues to the southwest of this. Cook took the largest of the group to be Kodiack. The state of our knowledge respecting this group may be summed up in few words — it is very imperfect and unsatisfactory. There is no ap- parent analogy between the remarks of any two observers. In Captain Liitke's work he gives some details respecting them from the observa- tions of John Veniaminott*, a priest who has visited them, and who has also given a sketch map of all this part; but, as it differs so much from all others, and those necessarily imperfect, no decision can be arrived at as to the comparative merits. Under these circumstances we shall con- fine our extracts to that of the Island Ounga, on account of the ftxct of coal existing on it. Ounga is the largest of all, and the westernmost of the group. Ac- cording to the observations of Stei)anoff, of the Eussian company, its north extreme is in latitude 55° 37', that of its south part 55° II', and its length about twentj'-six miles. Its breadth is about half its length. (Memoir of M. Tebenkoff.) This island is mountainous and cliffy, par- ticularly on its south coast, but the northwest side extends in a plain, which terminates in the low cape called Tonkoi. The island has three bays : the largest, Zakharovskaia, is on the northeast side ; it is open to the northeast, but the anchorage nmy be kept ; here the vessels of the company formerly wintered. There are some islets in its opening. The wl of of * MUUer's D6couverte8 des Busses, pp. 262-JW7. \ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 97 Ac- ly, its I', and jngtb. ,par- 1 plain, three [pen to lof the The second, on the east side, penetrates considerably into the land, but it has very little water. On tliis bay stands a village, called by the Itua- sians Delarovskoi, and by the Alentes, Ongnagak. The third is on the south coast. There are lew lakes on the island, but there are as many as ten small rivers affording fish. On the shores there is a great deal of drift-wood to be found, though but few whales. The rocks are generally of a silicious character. On the west side of Zakharovskaia Bay there are, in two places, some beds of coal, arranged in perfectly horizontal strata, at one hundred yards above the level of the sea. Tliey have commenced working them for use. On the north side much petrified wood is met with. Upon the island are foxes and reindeer, and in the sea, cod, turbot, and navaga. Tlie land produces bushes of alder and willow, and three or four species of bay. Turnips and potatoes grow well in the gardens of the inhabitants, who also raise pigs and fowls.* Cook makes the channelwhichseparatesOunga from the islands which line the coast of Aliaska at this parallel only five or six miles broad. When in the middle of this channel he observed the latitude to be 55° 18', and it is according to this observation tliat Krusenstern placed upon his chart the islands which Cook states to be near the coast, but which are too distant from the Choumagins to be considered as belonging to them. Captain Cook says : " I believe these islands to be the same that Beh- ring calls Clioumagin Islands, or those islands which he called by that name to be a part of them, for this group is pretty extensive. We saw islands as far to the southward as an island could be seen; they com mence in the longitude of 200° 15' east, and v».xtend a degree and a half, or two degrees, to the westward, I cannot be particular, as we could not distinguish all the islands from the coast of the continent. Most of these islands are of a good height, very barren and rugged, abounding with rocks and deep cliffs, and exhibiting other romantic appearances. There are several snug bays and coves about them ; streams of fresh water run from their elevated parts; some drift-wood was floating around, but not a tree nor a bush was to be seen growing on the land. A good deal of the snow still lay on many of them ; and the parts of the continent which showed themselves between the innermost islands were quite covered with it."t Between the Choumagin Islands and the western extremity of Aliaska, the cr^stis bordered with a large number of small islands. Admiral Sarytscheff, who passed here, says in his journal that eight of them, of which he gives the names, are larger than the rest. Nanimack Island, nearly tlie westernmost, is four leagues to the north of Sannak, (presently described.) To the southeast of it lie a quantity of small islets and rocks above water. * Llitke, Voyage du S6niavine, Part. Naut., pp. 267, 268. t Cook's Third Voyage, vol. ill, pp. 412, 413. 7 AD V ■f-r- W 98 ALASKA DIRECTORY. Animack, or Reindeer Ivslaiul, lies six miles to the north of Nanimack. To the .southeast and east of this ishmd tliere is a group of rocks and islets similar to those projecting to the southeast from Nan imack Island. Lialiuskigh lies to the northeast of Animack, at the distance of four- teen miles. Tv^o islands, without i ames, lie at th(» distance of three miles from this; one to the north, and the other to the northeast. Kuegdogh lies to the east, two miles oft' from the fifth island. Kitagotagh lies to the east-southeast, at the distance of three miles from the last named island. Ounatchogh, two miles to the northeast of the preceding ; between these two last there is a high and pointed rock. Cook passed these islands June 20, 1778, and estimated their distance from the coast at seven leagues. At noon on this day, being in latitude 540 44/^ Halibut Island bearing south 05° west, he made some land to the northward, which he named liock Point. It is ajiparently one of the islands lying near the coast, one of which in reality is in latitude 54° 59', a latitude which corresponds with that of liock I*oint. Opposite to Ounatchogh Island, on the coast of Aliaska, is a very lof*^y volcano, the summit of which fell, in 178G, during an eruption. It is perhaps the same mountain that (Jook saw emitting smoke : " The rocks and breakers before mentlo:?ed forced us so far from the continent that we had but a distant view of the coast between Rock Point and Halibut Island ; over this and the adjoining islands we could see the main laud covered with snow, but particularly some hills, whose elevated tops were seen towering abov^e the clouds to a nu)st stupendous height. The most southwesterly of these hills was discovered to have a volcano, which contiiuially threw up vast columns of black smoke. It stands not far from the coast, and in the latitude of 54° 48', aiut the longitude of 195° 45'.east. It is also remarkable from its figure, Avhich is a complete cone, and the volcano is at the very summit. We seldom saw this (or indeed any other of these mountains) wholly clear of clouds. At times both ba«e and summit would be clear, when a narrow cloud, sometimes two or three, one above another, would embrace the middle like a girdle; which, with the column of smoke, rising perpendicularly to a great height out of its top, and spreading before the wind into a tail of vast length, made a very picturesque appearance. It nuiy be worth remarking, that the wind, at the height to which the smoke of this volcano reached, moved sometimes in a direction contrary to what it did at sea, even when it blew a fresh gale. In the afternoon, having three hours' calm, our peo- ple caught u])wards of a hundred halibut, some of which weighed a hundred pounds, and none less than twenty pounds." This was in thirty- five fathoms water, and three or four miles from the shore. (Cook's Voyage, vol. iii, pp. 416-17.) . Sannak or Halibut Island, which is the westernmost of those on the coast of Aliaska, received its second name from Cook, on account of 18 ALASKA DIRECTORY. 99 a very m. It " The itiuent ut and see the levated height. olcano, ]nds not of 105° ;e cone, indeed |)th base two or which, |ght out li, made ihat the moved hen it •ur peo- lighcd a thirty- (Cook'a those on jount of the circumatance hist (juoted. It is separated from the coast by a chan- nel four leagues in breadth. "This island is seven or eight leaguivs in circuit, and, exc(q)t the head, the land of it is low and very barren. There are several small islands near it, all of the same appearance; but there seemed to be a i)assage between them and the main, two or three leagues broad." — ((/ook.) Halibut Head, is a round hill in the center,* which he nuide when thirteen leagues ott' to the east-northeast. Since Admiral Sarytschett', who passed in sight of this island, June 20, 1701, none of the llueisian navigators have remarked it. It is bestrewed all around ics circumference with naked rocks and islets. Admiral Sarytscheft" makes particular mention of three of these last, which lie at the eastern part of the island, and says, further, that from the western extremity of this island a line of rocks above water extends towards the east (f) for a distan(!e of two leagues. Cook did not see them. The island is full of lakes, from whence rivers flow, chiefly to the soutb side, and are very abundant in fish. There are foxes, sea calves, and a great quantity of birds of all si)ecies. There are but few spots for landing. Tlie natives say that at thirty versts (twenty miles) to the southeast or south-southeast of Saiinak there is a bank with from two and a half to nine fathoms of water on it; between the island and the bank the depth is eighteen to twenty-seven fathoms; there are also six smaller banks visible at high water. Sea- weed grows at times on them. No vessel sailing here has seen them, so their existence is doubtful, t The Strait of Isanotsky,^ separating Aliaska from the Aleutian Islands, was known to exist prior to 1708; for subse(pient to that year the Eussiau charts have shown it, though upon some English ones, that of Arrowsmith in particular, it was omitted until many years afterwards. Isanotsky Strait not only separates Alifiska from Ounimak, but it divides the latter from Ikatok Island, lying three and a half miles south of the southwest point of Aliaska. The upper or northern part of the strait extends for twelve miles north one-quarter west, ami south one- quarter east ; its breadth does not anywhere exceed four miles. At its northern extremity, that is, between Aliaska and the northeast point of Ounimak, (behind which lies Krenitzin Bay,) the strait is only two miles broad ; it is even narrower according to the account given by Krenitzin, and moreover is obstructed by a large number of banks. This is what he says : "Tne northwest entrance of this strait is extremely difficult, on account of the sand-banks and currents which are felt during tlie ebb and flood tides. That to the southeast is very much easier, and the soundings do not give less than four and a half fatlioms."§ A shoal of * Admiral Sarytscheff places Halibut Head in the northwest part of the island. t Captain Liitke, p. 274. t Captain Liitke says that it is not Issanotslcy or Isanotskoy. The name of the strait is the same as the Island Sannnkh ( Sannagh or Imannakh.) — Memoir, p. 295. $ Nouvellcs D^couvcrtes des Russes, by Coxe, p. 254. 100 ALASKA DIRECTORY. lii conajdciuble extent is marked on Krenitzin'seliart in the middle of the strait, which almost tills up its entire breadth. On the chart by Khou- diakott' (which, with the former, are tiio only representations of any pretensions) this shoal is not found; but the northwest point of Aliiiska is here surrounded by rocks ; the breadth of the entrance is, notwith- standinjif, not less than two miles ; and as on the chart soundinjjfs are marked throughout its extent, it must be inferred thai I\I. Khondiakoif examined the strait in detail. Which of the two charts merits the preference cannot be decided until a fresh examination is made. The lower part of the strait, that is, the portion between Ounimak and Ikatok Island, is eight miles long by four broad. This breadth, however, is contracted by one-half by Kitenamagan Island, lying half a mile from Ikatok. From the north end strait of Isanotsky, the coast of Aliaska runs to the north^nstward, in nearly the same direction as the southern coast of that peninsula. This will be described in the next chapter, in connection with the remainder of the coasts of the Sea of Behving. The Aleutian Archipelago, forming, as it were, a broken continuation of the peninsula, will follow. ALEUTIAN ARCHIPELAGO. It is to the celebrated Behring, as we have mentioned regarding the Kodiack Islands, that liussia owes the discovery of the Aleutian Islands. It was during his return from the coast of America iu 1741 that he dis- covered seve: al of them, now known under the names of Semitsch, Kiska, and Amtschitka. In 1745 an enterprising merchant, named Basoff, made a voyage hither in search of sea-otters which he had beard were abund- ant on the shor. - After this period they were more frequently visited, and they daily became better known. * The geographical positions of the group we owe principally to the Russian Vice- Admiral Sarytseheff, who accompanied Captain Billings in his expedition in 1701-92. He deter mined, by astronomic observations, the positions of the greater part of the islands, and constructed charts of many of them, among others a detailed survey of his own of the island of Ounalashka, which is up to the present the only one we possess. To Captain Cook, too, we owe some observations on this island and some others near it. Captains Golownin and Kotzebue, in the years 1817 and 1818, determined the position of some of their points. Captain Llitke has given a long article upon this archipelago, drawn from the journals of several Russian navigators, who have, at ditterent periods, visited these islands, and particularly from the observations of Lieutenant Tebenkoff, and M. Inghestrom, an oflicer in the service of the Russian- American Company, t Many of these remarks are considered by Admiral Krusenstern not to be of sufiBcient • See Coxe's Russian Discoveries ; Pallas, in his Northern Memoirs, and journal de St. Petersbonrg, I781-'82. t Voyage du Sdniaviue, Part. Naut., pp. 279-330, ALASKA DIRECTORY. 101 authority to carry much weight; still, in our general ignorance of this archipelago, they become valuable. Captain Beechey has also added slightly to our knowledge of them ; and several other navigators, whose names will be alluded to, have added something to the general stock. The islands of the group that are nearest to Kamtschatka are the least known, and the archipelago, as mentioned relative to the Kodiacik Islands, are in the possession of the llussiau-American Company, who have some establishments upon them. The Aleutian Islands form a chain, which extends nearly east and west from the Isle of Attou, in longitude 172° 45' east, to the peninsula of Aliaska, comprising an extent of 23^ of longitude, and between 51^ and 550 of north latitude. They have been divided into several groui)S. The western or Blignie group is composed of four islands: Attou, Agattou, Semitsch, and Bouldyr. Another group is named Rat Islands; a third, the Aiulrean- owsky group ; and the eastern group, the Fox li^'ands, because these animals are only found on the islands composing that particular group. Krusenstern considers these subdivisions unnecessary; he comprehends them all under the one title of Aleutian Islands, as more simple and more convenient. Captain Liitke remarks that these distinctions, though not absolutely necessary, assist the memory, and have some advantages. He therefore follows the divisions formerly adopted. On all these islands traces of volcanic action are evident. On many of them there are volcanoes in activity, and some, as, for example, Ouni- nuik, are subject to continual volcanic eruptions and shocks. The Fox Islands exceed all the others in height; the further we advance to the west the lower they become. The direction in which almost all the islands of the Fox group lie, lengthwise, is southwest to northeast. They are low and imrrow to the southwest, and increase in breadth and elevation to the northeast. But beyond the Island of Amtchitka, where the general direction of the chain rinis to the northwest, this law alters, and the southeast extremities of the island are lower and narrower, and their northwest extremities higher and broader. We owe the subse(iuent descrii)tions to Admiral Krusenstern's Me- moires Hydrographiques de I'Atlas de I'Ocean racilique, 1827, part ii, pp. 75, at seq.,iii\d sup[>lement, 1835; Captain Liitke's Voyage du Senia- viue, 183(5 ; and other authors as quoted. The following description commences with the easternmost of the Archipelago, and proceeds westward in succession. il'i ) FOX ISLANDS. kmal ()us. In l.S2(ICaptain Heec^hey [)assed thronjjh the strait separating it from the islands to the southward. He calls its sonthwest point \Vedge-slnii)e Ca[K*, before which lies a rock, aiul the narrowest part of tlu^ strait is forme«l by the Isle Kongalga; Hiechey makivig the distance nine and a half miles, while KotzclMui makes it six- teen miles, and twentyflve miles between Ounimak and Akoun Islands. Beeichey's observations have been, in some degree,, (!ontirmed by others. These and other discrepancies render it very desirable that a more com- plete knowledge of these islands should be obtained ; because, although this strait may not be the best for jiassing thnmgh the chain to the northward, yet, in going from Behring's Strait or Ounalashka to the southward, it is to be preferred. Kruseustern lias called it llurick Strait, after Kotzebue's vessel. The southernnu)st point of Ounimak is called in Kmsenstern's chart Capellitsou; by Captain LUtke, Cai>e Kithou(;k or Khitkhoukh ; and, from its shape, by Captain Beechey, \Vedgesha])ed Cai)e. From this southern cape the coast runs to the northeast to Cape Liitke, beyond which to the eastern strait the coast lias not been examined. The south- west point of the island is Cape Saritcher, so named by Captain Staniko- witch, who found before it a large rock siniilarlj^ situated with resi)ectto it as that of the southern cape. From this Captain Stanikowitch fol- lowed the coast to anotlier cape in latitude 54° 51/ north, which he called Mordviuott', beyond which the coast still remains unknown.* There is some doubt as to the true size of the islaiul. Kruseustern makes it fifty miles ; Captain Stanikowitch, iu the MoUer, makes it sixty- five miles in a north 52° east and south 52° Avest direction, and its greatest breadth about twenty -five miles. It is, so to speak, but the cover to a furnace, continually burning ; on the summit of this a higli moun- tain-chain extends throughout the island, having several spiracles, by which the pent-up fires find vent, and eject, witlnmt cessation, their burning products. Notwithstamling the number of craters, the subter- ranean fire causes frequent eartlupuikes. The highest of these summits, the Shishaldiu Volcano, was measured by Cai)tain Liitke as eight thou sand nine huiulred and thirty-five English feet high. It is a regular cone; and to the east of it is another, with a double summit. It stands nearly in the center of this island, in about 54° 45' and 103° 59'. At six miles from the southwest side is another equally conical volcano called * Kruseustern, p. 95. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 103 Pojfjromtno'i or Nosov.skoi, wliicli Kot/-ol)uo says is five tliousiind five hundred and tweiity-Uvc English feet in height. C'ook mentions this as l^eing entirely covered with snow in July. Tiie IssannaUh chain has also two high jK'aks towards the northeast extremity of the island. The whol(! of the mountain chains are nearer the south than the ntuth side.* A broad hedofgraA'c! forms the northeast extremity of the islaiul,anda low coast extends as far as the villagi'of Shishaldin without any shelter. Shishaldin village is two-thirds the distaiuu^ from the ncntheast extremity to a caixi three and a half miles cast from Cape iMordvin«>ff. The land is low and level here, and a river yielding abundance of fish flows past the village. Some vegetables are cultivated by the inhab i uts. Be- yond this the coast is higher. The northwest extremity, CajH' Alordvinott", (Cape Noisak,) is in latitude a^o 51/^ longitude Ui-i° "•". From Capo Chichkoff, which is bluff, and very remarkable, be(!i. .,e the hn 1 on each side of it is ver^- low, to the west extrennty of the isliMul, Cape Saritchev, the coh.sL ibrujs tlie base of the Pogrom^noi ^ j1( ano. The latter cape " bluff, and of a moderate height. At seven 01 eight miles from it, on the sunuiiit of the coast, is the village of P(»gromiiioi; off it there is a boat-lamling. Much drift-wood, sea weed, ;ind animals are thrown on the shore here. At four or live miles scuitheast of Cape Saritchev is the small village of Nosovskoi, where there is easy land- ing. At about six miles to the southeast of this is the high steep, Cape Khitoidc, which is to be known by a high pile of stones before it, and which is called Ounga. This cape is mentioned above; and to the northeast of it, which is the direction of flu; south coast, thenj is con- siderable ditticulty in reconciling the difterent authorities.t We will therefore let it pass. EuRiCK or OuNOiAK Pass, through which Kotzebue passed in 1817 separates Ouninmk from the Krenitzin Isles to the southward. Its nar- rowest i)art, as before mentioned, is about nine and a half miles broad. The currents are very violent in it. Captain Beechey found them to be at the rate of three miles an hour to the south 'MP west, and mentions an American who experienced one of six miles an hour. Although Ounimak Pass is the widest ami safest for traversing the Aleutian chain from north to south, and vice verr-1^ and also the most con- venient for passing into the nortiiern i)art of the Sea of Behring, it is not so advantageous for ships which, coniing from the Pi^'iflc, are des- tined for Ounalashka. They are then obliged to make a circuit of nearly twenty leagues ; and after having cleared the strait, they must run at least seven or eight leagues to the northwest before they can bear up for the northernnu)st Cape of Ounalashka. For this reason Captain Wraugel recommends Akoutan Pass, further westward, for this route. Krenitzin Islands — The islands next in succession to Ounimak, * Liitke, Voyage, &c., Part. Nawt , pp. 292, 293. t Liitke, Voyage, »fec., Part. Nant,, pp. 293-295. ■^i»i*^Hj^fcji».'r"Fp^7^~^*F3»iT^-nTrn-' 104 ALASKA DIRECTORY I Tebenkoff calls the Krenitzin Islands, from the navigator who first saw them. They are five in number, and were first correctly pla-sed by Kot- zebuf>, though there is a detailed description of them by a Russian navi- gator, Soiovieff, in the relation of his voyage in 1770 'to 1775.t The northeast of them, called by Krenitzin* Cougalga, in reality consists of two islands, Ouganok and Ouektock. They are very close to each other, and the separation was not observed by either Cook or Beech ey. There is a peak on the northeast extreme of Ouganok. Tigalga, or Kigalga, or Tigalda, is the next to the southwest, and is about four leagues long east and west. Its center is in latitude 54° 5' north, and longitude 105° 0' west. A small island, connected by a chain of rocks to Tigalda, lies off its northern extremity. Tigalda is mountainous, and intersected by tliree isthmuses. Sea- lions and sea-calves frequent the island, and a large quantity of birds' eggs are collected. The sea throws a great quantity of drift-wood on its coast, and coal is found on the shore of Derbinskoi Strait. There is one village on the northeast side of the island. Derbinskoi Strait separates it from Abatanok, and is remarkable among all the others for the extraordinary rapidity of the current and its strong tide races. Abatanok lies west of Tigalda, and is about the same size, and lies in the same direction. At two miles west of the western i)oint of Aba- tanok is the small island of Aektock or Goly, (bare,) which is about a league in circumference, and lies two miles south of the south point of Akoun. Beside these five islands thus described by Kotzebue, there is a sixth, mentioned by Soloviett', called Nangarnan, which ought to lie to the southeast of Tigalda, but is not so placed on Kotzebue's chart; therefore it must be presumed that he did not see it, and it must be sought for eisewhere. The Island of Akoun forms he southwest portion of Burick Strait, and lies to the west of the Krenitzin Islands. It is about fourteen miles long, in a northeast and southwest direction ; its breadth is unequal. There are two small bays on it, one in tlie northeast part, the other in the northwest part of the island. The island is mountainous, and i)articularly cliffy on its northeast and north sides. On the south side of the island is a sort of column, which, seen from the east or west, resembles a tower, or stce[)le suriounded by houses. On its northwest side is a smoking volcano, and near the \il- lage on the side of Akounskoi Strait are some hot springs. There are only three villages in the island, and the Ilussiau com])any have attempted to raise cattle on it. Akounskoi Strait, separating Akoun from Akoutan, is not more than two miles wide, is throughout bestrewed with rocks, and subject to strong currents and tide races.t * Journal do St. Petorsbourg, 1782. tLUtke, p. 290. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 105 rait, miles qual. (>r in it and liich, tid by le \il- e are have Akoutan lies half a league to the west of Akoun. Kotzebue seut Lieutenaitt Chramtschenko around it in baidarK, and we therefore pos- sess a tolerable knowledge of its coasts. It is large, mountainous, of a round form, and having a diameter of twelve or thirteen miles. It has no good harbor; there are some coves on the northern coast, but they cannot be serviceable to any but very small vessels. With the exception of Ounalashka, it is higher than the neighboring islands. Nearly in its center is an active volcano, measured by Captain Liitke as three thousand three hundred and thirty-two feet. The coasts are steep, particularly on the south side ; ou the north they slope more gradually and evenly. Volcanic evidences are everywhere abundant. Between its southwest end and the opposite shore of Ounalashka is the island of Ounalga, the same which Cook calls Oonella. It is i!nmedi- ately before the Bay of Samganooda, two miles from the northeast point of Ounalashka. The IslajNd of Ounalashka, which is the largest and the best known of the Aleutian Archipelago, follows. It extends seventy miles from northeast to southwest. The southwest extreme is in latitude 53° 13', and longitude 107° 4:7' west; and the northeast i)art in latitude o^o 1' north, and longitude 100° 22' west. The name here given, as generally known to Europeans, is a contrac- tion of Nagounalaska, the correct name. It is the most important of the group, because it is the residence of the chief of the section of the Kussian company's hunting operations.* There are many deep bays on the coasts of Ounalashka, which ha^^e nearly all been examined and surveyed by our navigators. The noith- eru shore has the greatest number, as for example: Cai)tain's Bay, the Bay of Otters, lUuluck Bay, Kaleghta Bay, and Samganooda Bay, vis- ited by Cook. Captain's Bay was so named, because Captain Levacheff was obliged to winter here in 1708-'09. There is a plan of this bay, ou a large scale, in the atlas accompanying Kotzebue's voyage. It is formed by Capes Kaleghta and WessiloHi'sky, which lie in an east-northeast and west- southwest direction, niue miles from each other, and is about thirteen miles to its southern part. The upper part of the bay contains three distinct smallei bays, the. eastern, northern, and western bays. Captain Levachelf wintered in the southern, to which Krnsenstern has given his name, the better to distinguish it. It has not much to recommend it; its entrance, scarcely more than a quarter of a mile broad, is formed on tlie west by a projecting point of the coast, and to the east hy the southei'n point of the Island of Oun)a(!knagh. A small island, a mile in length, named Ouknadagh, lies to the north of the entrance of Port Levachelf. The eastern bay bears the name of Port Ilioluk, from the village of that name, where the company has an establishmoit. Admiral Sary- * Ibid., p. 280. If \ 106 ALASKA DIRECTORY. I \V tscheff aiJ Captain Kotzebiie, who visited it, have given a detailed description of it. The latter says that it would be the best harbor in the universe if the entrance to it was not so difficult; but the great depth of water in the outer or Captain's Bay presents great difficulties for a ves" sel entering Port Ilioluk; if it should fall calm, she would remain exposed to the violent currents which often occur here. Oumacknagh Island forms the western side of the port, which, like the island itself, has a northeast and southwest direction; its depth is three and three-quarter miles, audits opening formed by the northern part of Oumacknagh, and the coast opposite is two miles wide. It lies seven miles south from Cape Kaleghta, and comuumicates with Port Levacheff by a narrow channel one hundred yards in breadth. The soundings in the center of Port Ilioluk are from seven to fourteen fathoms. The mean of the observations made by Kotzebue places the port in latitude 530 52' 25" north, and longitude IGOo 32' 0" west. Variation of the compass, 10° 24' east. The establishment of the port, 7^ 30': the highest tide observed, seven feet six inches. Kaleghta Bay, which lies next, to the eastward of Ilioluk, is open and deep, and only merits attention on account of a village of the same name at its head, at the mouth of a small river flowing from a lake, in which is an abundance of lish of a species of salmon. The Bay of Otters, or Bobrovaia, adjoins Kaleghta Bay on the east, and is the largest of those which intersect Ounalashka, being eighteen miles deep in a northeast and southwest direction. Its breadth, as well at the mouth as the rest of the bay, excepting the north part, is about four miles. It was miiuitely examined by Admiral Sarytscheff in baidars. Both shores of the bay present a large number of small coves, of two or three mik^s deep, which contain good anchorages; the rivulets which fall from the mountains afford good water. The v^estern part of the Bay of Otters is formed by a peninsula, which is the same land which forms the uastern side of Captain's Bay. At the extremity of this peninsula is Samganooda Bay, where Cook anchored twice. Cook found the varia- tion to be 19° 59' 15" east, or half a degree more than Kotzebue found it forty years later. It is high water, full and change, at G'' 30', rise aiul fall, three and one-half and four feet. Judging from the description given by Cook, rhis port is preferable to Port Ilioluk. It is four miles long in a south one-half west direction, and aflbrds safe anchorage throughout its extent; the mouth of the bay is a mile in width, and it narrows toward the bottom to a quarter of a mile, where you may anchor in from four to seven fathoms, on a bottom of sand and mud, being entirely land-locked. This port has also the advan- tage of being nearer the open ocean, and has not therefore the inconven- ience complained of by Captain Kotzebue when speaking of Ilioluk, as mentioned before. The principal merit of this bay consists in the fact that here there is an establishment of the llussian American Company. The bay which Cook afterwards entered, but which he was obliged to ALxiSKA DIRECTORY. 107 iiid it and )leto ,aud yisa mile, ^lu of dvaii- iiven- ik, aa fact pany. ;ed to quit directly, on account of tlie great depth of water, is called Kaleglita, and lies some miles to the west of Samganoudo. It is mentioned above. The island of Ounalga (Cook's Oonella) lies before Samganoudo Bay, as mentioned before. Between it and the island of Akoutan, to the northeast of it, is Akoutan Pass. Captain Wrangel recommends this pass to be preferred for passing between tlie islands, because it lends directly to all the ports lying on the northeast side of Onnahushka. This strait is two and a half miles broad, but is somewhat nairowed by a chain of islets lying half a mile off tlie northeast part of Ounalga. These islets are called, in Captain Liitke's Memoir, Egg Islets. Spirkin Island, which forms the eastern point of the Bay of Otters, is ten miles long in a north one-quarter east and south one-quarter west direction. The Oudagagh Channel, which separates it from Ounalashka, is about a mile wide and three andone-quarter miles long, in a north by west one-half west direction. The depth in it is forty-five fathoms. At the northeast end of Spirkin Island lies the small isle Ougalgan, being separated by a (;lear channel about a mile long. It was traversed by Cook, Sarytscheff, and Kotzebue. There are two rocks near the eastern coast of Spirkin Island, between which Cook passed in the night of June 20, 1778. According to Cook the first rock lies four miles south one-(piarter east from Ougalgan Isle ; the other at five miles directly to the south of this isle; their distance apart is one aiul a half league, and the relative bearing northeast and southwest. * Up to the present time the eastern shores of Ounalashka have remained unexplored, with the exception of the small Bay of Kuoliliak, Avhich was examined by Admiral Sarytscheff, and of Avhich he has given a plan in the account of this voyage. It is easily Icnown by a remarkable cape, named Amtschitka., standing a little to the north of the entrance to the bay. Besides this there is another mark which will point out the situa- tion of the bay in approaching the land on its parallel. Ounalashka here presents the appearance of being divided into two parts. The Bay of Kuoliliak is perfectly sheltered from all winds. Its mouth is luilf a league wide; further inside it narrows to two hundred and fifty yards The depth is about ten fathoms. Admiral Sarytscheff is the only navi gator who has visited it. The western side of Ounalashka has been examined in detail as well by Admiral Sarytscheff as by Kotzebue, in baidarj; we are therefore intimate with all the indentations, which are here in great number on the coast. Makou(!hinskoy Bay lies about the middle of the island. It is two and three-quarter miles wide at its opening, and eleven or tAvelve miles long in an easteily direction. In it there are many coves, which may prove to be good anchorages. The head of this bay approaches that of the Bay of Otters within three miles, and within seven miles of Captain's • Cook's Third Voyage, vol. ii, p. 240. r !P»Uyi^fl5l^^9pp^^,i|M,«'l»ijaiuMJ'"i«t'»i'«»i«*-- i 108 ALASKA DIEECTORY. fi I. hi ■» gl Bay, in such a manner that this portion of Ounalashka forms a peninsula of forty miles in circumference, composed of high mountains, among which a very high volcano is to be distinguished. There are still several bays on the western shore, which we have not mentioned, tliat are given in the charts of Admiral Sarytscheff' and Captain Kotzebue. OuMNAK Island lies next west to Ounalashka, and next to that island is the largest of the archipelago. The strait which separates them is four miles wide in its southern part; but this is diminished to one-half by Tinginack Island, which lies in midchannel; this rendei's the passage difficult for large vessels. Outside the strait, at five miles to tbe south of Tinginack, is a reef, which covers at high water. This was first shown on Kotzebue's chart, and must increase the danger of this navigation. Oumnak is nearly twenty leagues in length, in a southwest by south and northeast by north directior Its height increases in the same direction ; and its north end is composed of very high mountains, fimong which may be distinguished a verj\high volcano, covered with eternal snow. Cook saw this island October 29, 1778, some days after quitting Ouna- lashka, and calls it Amoughta. Upon the island are two active volcanoes : the first, Vcevidovskoi, is nearly in the center of the island, and is its highest point ; the other, Tou- likskoi, is ten miles from the northeast side. The southwest extremity of the island. Cape Sigak, lies, according to Captain Kotzebue's chart, in latitude 52° 50', and longitude 168° 42'. A short distance from this the southeast coast forms some small open bays, one of which is called the Old Port, which is somewhat sheltered from the south from seaward by a bank. IJeyond this is the Black Cape, projecting considerably into the sea, and forming the open cove called Drovianaia (wood,) on account of the great quantity of drift-wood thrown on to it. Beyond this the coast ru7is nearly straight, and not very high, to Vcevidovskaia Cove, open to the south, before which lie the Vcevidovskaia Islands, mentioned presently. Here the coast is low and sloping, and thus extends to Gloubokaia (deep) Cove, into which a river discharges itself, abounding with fish. Further to the northeast, beyond a mass of rocks ninety feet in height, inclining to the northeast, is the village Egorkovskoi, in a small creek midway between Cape Sigak and Oumnak Strait. The neigh- borhood of the village affords great resources ; the grass fi(mrishes, and potatoes and turnips are cultivated. A rude, sandy, and straight coast surrounds this as far as the village Toulikskoi, lying in front of the islet Tanghinakh, in the Strait of Oumnak. Near the southeast coast there are many reefs and banks. The eastern face of the island facing Ounalashka is steep and rocky in some places, but is not high. The north i)art is high, sandy, and even, frequently intersected with ravines, but without a single remarkable inlet. The west coast is mountainous, but not steep. On this side, at eight miles from the southwest extremity, is the hirgest village of the II ALASKA DIRECTORY. 109 rocky Jeven, [kablo Ide, at l)f the island, Eet<'-hechnoi, standing on a small bill between some lakes inland and the sea-sbore. Before it is a small and safe harbor for small vessels. On each side of the narrow entrance is a rocky islet, one of which is called Anangouliak. Fish is abundant here. Nearly in the middle of the west side of the island is the large but open bay called lugakoadak. On the southeast sicfe of the island, and in front of the Vcevidovskoi volcano and the bay of the same name, are situated the small islands called also Vcevidovskies. They are six in number, and are two miles off the coast, the interval being full of banks. On Kotzebue's chart there are but two, the largest named Ouegakh. Oumnak, like the rest of the islands, is deficient of w^ood, some willow and other bushes only growing on it. It is, next to Ounimak, the most subject to volcanic eruptions. One feature is an evidence of this ; it is the abundance of hot springs, one of which resembles the Geysers of Ice- land. Captain Liitke gives an account of many of these phenomena, and similar may be found in Kotzebue's and in Langsdortf's travels.* To the northward of Oumnak is a long reel stretching for twenty-six miles in a nearly north (true) direction, at the outer point of which is the Ship Kock. It was so named by Cook, and is in the form of a tower. At two hundred fathoms within the Ship Rock is the small island of Joann Bogoslov. It is of volcanic origin, and did not appear until 179G, after an earthquake. The length of this small island, from northwest by north to southeast by south, is one and three-quarters mile. Its breadth is about half its length. A chain of rocks i)rojects two miles beyond its northwest extremity, and another a mile from its northeast point. According to the observations of Cai>tain Wassilieft", the peak in the center of the island is 2,240 feet high.t Tbi^ island, as before stated, is connected with Oumnak by a reef of rocks, which doubtless owe their origin to a similar cause; for in l'^78 Cook, and thirty years later Saryt- scbeff, sailed veen the Ship Rock and the Island of Oumnak. I, 'Liitke, Voyage, &c., Port. Naut., pp, 298-302. t Admiral Kiuseiistern adds the account of this phenomenon from a report, dated June 10, 1817, from Mr. Barai'off, chief of the American company's estahlishment : " In 18(t6, a new v(dcano appeared on one of the Aleutian Islands, and on May 1, in thdt year, a violent tempest from the north occurred, and during its force a rumhling noise, and distant explosions, similar to thunder claps, were heard at Ounala«hka. At the com- niencemiMit of the third day the tempest ahated, and the sky became clear. They then observed, between Oinialashka and Oumnak, to the north of the latter, a flame jotting out of the sea, and soon after, smoke, which continued for ten consecutive days. After this a white body of a round fom) was observed to rise out of the water, and incresise rapidly in size. At the ctuI of a month the flame ceased, but the smoke increased con- siderably, and the island kept on increasing. On June 1, I8I4, they sent a baidar to examine it, but they could scarcely laud, on account of the violent currents and the pointed rocks. The island was formed by precipices, covered with small stones, which were being contlnnally ejected from the crater. In 1815, a second expedition found the island very much lower than in the previous year, and its appearance entirely changed. The precipices had fallen, and were continually crumbling away." 73i™''*WT''v;r-'?r'"*'^f9rrjT7y»^ 110 ALASKA DIRECTORY. To the wei«t\v rd of this island is a group of four volcanic islands, which bear the nauu^. of the Isles of the Four Mountains ; they are all very near to each other. Kotzebue saw but three. They are named Uliaga, Kigalgin, Kagauiil, and Tchuginadak. The largest of theui are live or six leagues in circumference. YoiiNASKA. — To the southwest of these islands is Youiiaska, which is about five leagues from northeast to southwest. • According to Captain Kotzebue, there is a high mountain in the center of the island. Tche- goula, or Tchougoul, a small island, lies west of Younaska, and near the northeast point of Amoughta. Kotzebue says it is of a circular form, and three miles in diameter. It seems as if formed of fragments of rock ready to tall down, and has no landing place. At about a mile from it, in the direction of Amoughta, is a small isolated rock. Amoughta, or Amoukiitou, is the westernmost of the chain of the Fox Islands. It is nearly round, and about six miles in diameter. Its center is mountainous, and its summit irregular. The coasts are low, but steep. A short distance from its south end a high coluuni of rock rises above the water. There is neither bay nor river on it, and although formerly in volcanic activity, its fires are extinct. All the islands of the Fox chain, to the west of Ounniak, are now uninhabited, but formerly were not so. They are all now more or less fre- quented by otters, sea-horses, seals, and birds.* The channels between this group are those generally used by ships either going or returning from the Sea of Behring. The Kussian com- pany's vessels generally prefer that of the Strait of Ounimak, but Gap- tain Wrangel prefers the Strait of Akoutan, between that island and Akoun, as being much shorter. In returning by this strait, with the prevalent southwest winds, you may run to the southeast without being crami)ed by the coasts. By the Ounimak or Iturick Channel the length of coast is much greater, and it is also embarrassed by the dangerous Sannak Island. Vessels do not use any other than the channels here mentioned. The least current is found in the Ounimak Pass, where it does not exceed four knots an hour.t 1 1 ANDR]fiANOWSKY ISLANDS.f This group extends from Seguam or Sigouam to Goreloi, or the " Burned Island," as Liitke also calls the first-named islnid. There is a larger interval between the foregoing islands and the next to the westward than between themselves, the distau's Memoir. As this can scarcely be of service in a nautical view, we omit the short details of it. There is but one village upon Atkha, called Nikolskoi, on the south side of the inner harbor of Korovinskoi. It consists of a few houses for the employes of the Kussian Company, a church, &(y. It is in a low and damp situation, and has many disadvantages. One gTeat incon- venience of Atkha is the extreme scarcity of provisions. But few fish are taken on the coast or in the rivers. Supplies sire brought from the Commander Islands to the west, but all are insufficient to avert severe famine in the winter. It may be said that there is no summer in Atkha ; for during those months fogs and rain are particularly prevalent. In winter, on the con- trary, the weather is generally clear. The island has abundant evidence ALASKA DIRECTORY. 115 south )use8 low Incon- fish h the levere Ithose con- llence everywhere of its volcanic! lin^s. Wo linvo boforo sjiokcn of soido of the vok'aiioes. Mineral and hot .sprinys arc iicqucntly met with ; and one remarkable feature is very comnion: these are volcanic Hjjiracles, or blowlnfj-holcH, emitting, at intervals, burning clay, or else the same in a state of fusion; others only send forth hot and sulphuious vajtors; and these, in the southwest side, forni almost the entire surface, aiul have considerable ett'e(!t on the climate. Kassatotchy Island, which bears north 54° west, nim^ or ten miles from the mountain on the southwestextremity of Atkha, is one of these volcanoes. It is a mountain rising at once out of the sea ; the crater ou its summit, it is stated by the inhabitants, being full of water. The TriiASTiE Islands, a group of small but high islands to the west of Atkha, are thus (;alled (tchastie, crowded) from their arrangement; they have been but little known hitherto. There are thirteen of ditferent sizes, and six large, isolated rocks. M. Inghestrom saw them several tinu^s, and sui)i)oses that the danger of approaching them, from the ter- rible tide races and currents through them, and the want of shelter, has prevented any knowledge being gained. The island nearest to Atkha is Ogmodak, three and a half miles dis- tant. It is high, steep, without landing, and is the only one that is ten- anted, and that by foxes. A little to the west of this is the high islet of Nerpitchy, (sea-calf,) and to the northwest, quite close also, a high rock called Sivontchy, (sea-lion.) Beyoiul this, in the direction of Adakh, is a range of rocks, then the islaiul of Tagalak ; after this, Tchigul, or Tchougoulak, which is some miles in extent, and was formerly inhabited; beyond this is an isolated. rock; and lastly, we reach three cons])icuous islands close together, of which the last, Kagalaska, is not far from the coast of Adakh. From these islands, in the dii'ection of (ireat Sitchiu, there are six more islets, one of which is large, the rest small. SiTciiiN Island, which, to distinguisli it from another of the same name to the west, is sometimes called Great Sitchin, is in latitude 52° 4' or 5', and, according to the observations nuide by Captain Stanikowitch, in the corvette ]\Ioller, in longitude 17G° 2' (center.) It is about twenty-five miles in circumference, and in its center is a volcano covered with per- petual snow, which was ascertained by M. Inghestrom to be five thou- sand and thirty-three English feet in elevation. Adakhe is a large mountainous island, but lower than Sitchin ; it is covered with perpetual snow in some parts. Its north end is in about latitude 52° 4' G". The bay on the north side is open, and there arQ others on the northt'ast, south, and west sides; that to the south ofl'ers the best shelter. It is separated by a small itthmus from the bay on the west coast. The position aud details of the island are very imper- fect, as are also those of the next island.* Kanaga, or KoNNiAGA, is the island next west to Adakhe, to which it is similar in size, being seven or eight leagues in length, by half that * Lutke, pp. 320, 322. i; ^flfw^'m^m^r^mjffffi^mfjp^ 116 ALASKA DIRECTORV. k \: broniltli. The northern part of tliis i.shind is reniarkabUi b^' a liifjfh smoking volcano, one of tlie nu)at lofty in tlui chain; the rest of the island is not very high. Near to itH western part is a siiiull island bear- ing the name of the Isle of Otters; these islands, howev(!r, are but incorrectly delineated and placed on the charts. Tana(JA is separated from Kanaga by a chaniml two leagues broad, extending eight leagues in a niutheast direction. Aciiording to the observations of Admiral Siirytschetf, in 17!)1, this land is about'eleven leagues in extent, from east to west, and four in breadth. It is easily distingtiished by an elevated volcano, which stands at its southwest point. Near the point is a bay, which Sarytscheft" visited, and nuide a plan of in his voyage. The entrance of this bay may be about four miles broad, and is about eight miles deep. At this distance, in the north part of the bay, the vessel iu which he penetrated anchored on a bottom of fine black sand, in front of the entrance of two rivers, whose sources were in the mountains, and here entered the bay. Watering is very easily jterformed in this bay, the boats ascending the rivers without any obstacles. At six leagues to the west of Tanaga is Goreloi, or Burned Island. It has a very high volcano, whose summit is covered with perpetual snow. From this volcano it derives its name, Goreli, or Goidoi. Sarytscheff gives it a circumference of six leagues ; and M. Inghestrom considers this volcano, and those on Kanaga and Tanaga, as the highest in the Aleutian chain. South of this fire two small islands, with those south of it forming the westarnmost of the gioup of the Andreanowsky islands. They are mentioned by Sarytschett' as being sixteen miles southwest of the south- west point of Tanaga. He found the passage between (juite clear. As they had no name, Krusenstern gave them the name of JJelarott", one of the first founders of the Kussian-Ameriean Company. Their names as given in the chart of the United States Surveying Expedition of 1855 are : Unalga, Ogliouga, Skagule, Kavalga, Joulakh, Tanadakh, Tidgatukh, Illakh, and Amatignake, which last is the most southern one, and the highest, being about one thousand nine hundred and twenty- one feet high. KRYSI OR RAT ISLANDS. The islands next west of the foregoing are included by Liitke and others under the above denomination. ' Krusenstern says that it is more properly confined to a small island west of Amtschitka. Semisopochnoi. — At sixteen or seventeen leagues west of Goreloi or Burned Island is the Isle of the Seven Mountains. The name (Semiso- pochnoi) is significant of its character. It is of a circular form, and is ten leagues in circumference. According to the observations of M. Inghestrom its latitude is 51° 59', mi (Ut it. tin foil ALASKA DIkKCTORY. 117 aiul I more lloi or Imiso- kd is lo 59', and its lonffitndo 170° 40' east, -ih ascertained in tho corvotto Moller. Its ponition is the best fixed of all tlie ini^lil>orinj»- islands. The niountaina do not ext'ced three thonsand feet in heijjlit, and in summer the snow lies on it in bands. One of the mountains in the northern part sends forth smoke. T\w north and east sides have a wihl and desolate aspect ; on the south and west there are several {jfreen spots. The shores are in general clear. The strait between SeinisojuK'hnoi and Ooreloi is the ))est for crossing the Aleutian chain. It is safe throughout, is not less than forty-tlvo miles Itroad, and is not subject to tide iac»'s.* Amtciiitka is a large island ; it is not very hilly, and extends about eleven leagues north 72° west, and south 72° east. Near its west point are two small islands, the larger of which is called Rat Island, a name, as above mentione name Of St. Marcian (Markiana.) II(r says it was moderately high, and covered with snow. Although liis latitudes are erroneous, yet it must be considered that this island is intended, and not Amatignac, as has been supposed. The islaial is about thirtyttve miles in length, east-southeast one-half east, and w st-northwest one-half west, by comi)ass. It is low, and is not more than four miles wide at the southeast part, but is broaden" and higlier in th nor'hweat. Its southeast extremity forms a peninsula, on which a hillock rises, and from it a reef extends for two miles. The south coast runs nearly in a straight line, without any bays oi' coves, and in general witli a less depth than the north side, and lined with a larger nuuiber of rocks and reefs. At about a third the length of \\w island a chain of moderately high mountains rises, and falls again toward the northwest extremity, where it tVnins a low but steep cai>e, called by the Aleutes Satanna, or Bird's Cape. On the nortli side of the island, at ten miles from its east end, is Kiri- lovskaia Bay, the only pla(;e in the island where you can stay at anchor. This anchorage is somev, hat sheltered from seaward by a rci^f oft' its middle, which reejuires caution in entering; there are .also some reefs on either side of it. It is dangerous to remain here in autumn or winter, when the northerly gales are prevalent. The latituile of the bay is 51° 27' 1", longitude 170° 20' east. Magnetic variation, 14° 5' east in 1H3(). And high water occurs about 10 o'clock at full and change. The inhabitants say that there is no other bay than this hen^ described. Many persons here believe in the existence of a bank ten or llfteeu miles to the south of Amtschitka, but M. Inghestrom, who could not discover any appearance of such at eight miles oft', is inclined to doubt it. He ecpially disbelieves in the existence of some land said to be in the same direction, in about latitude 50^°. To the northwest of Amtsciiitka are the Tschegoula Isles, a group of four small hilly islands, which extend about six leagues east and west. In *• Liitke, pp. ;W5, 326. This terniiuateH the remarks of Mr. Inghcstroin, as Itrrv ^auted. f ■i! fV^?l^^^'?7?^J>'fjr^?}^ of rocks was inserted as lying sixteen leagues to the east of the I.sle of Attou. These were placed from the verbal reports of the fur traders, and were considered as very doubtful. Their existence, nevertheless, was con- firmed by a letter received by .Vdmiral Krusenstern fror.i ??. Inghestrom, which informed him that the latter had distinctly seen these locks, and that he had ap[)roached very near to them. lie estimated their distance from the northeast extremity of the Semitschi Islands at five leagues in a south 79° east direction ; but the latitude and longitude given by Inghestnnn, 52° 37' and 175°, does not at all accord with the observa- tions of Admiral SarytschettV Unless, therefore, an error of 25' in tlie m^v ALASKA DIRECTORY. 119 e applied l)y Liitke rt. \'en miles 3ast. , which is L south, is lies iiorth- luiit, from II position ictober 28, Iso speaks ur he only the east of calls Little nail island lich do not uice of five s this posi- lilly ishmd, beyond the •nmfeience, avate rocks, anitscliatka (ly hunters. \ho Aleutian and extend- he low land lot" Abraham iiole island. |)U1) of rocks lie of Attou. •s, and were is, was con- In {.diestrom, e locks, and lieir distance c leagues in lie given by Ithe observa- of 25' in the latitude of Semitsclii can be admitted, we must suppose an error in these figures. Agattou, to the south of the Semitschi Islands, according to Saryt- scheff, has a cinnimference of thirty-four miles. It is separated from Attou by a strait of fifteen miles wide, according to the Kussian chart, Attou is one of the largest of tin? Aleutian Islands. According to Captain Golownin's observations, in 1808, it is twenty-seven and three- quarter miles in length east and v. est; but the Russian chart makes it forty-eight miles long. As Golownin was not sure that the point he saw was really the western poijit or not, the ' itter dimensions by Admiral Sarytscheff may be correct. In the southeast part of the island is a bay, in which a vessel belonging to the Rnssian-An .u'ican Company anchored. In the plan of this, by Lieutenant iJavidfd, it is called Massacre Bay. It is about three miles wide, and midwaj between the two outer cajjcs is a group of snudl islets and rocks, within which there also api)ears to be a low reef, and another lies outside them, half a mile to the south- west. Lieutenant Etolin slipcovered on the north coast of Attou an excellent bay, which he called Tschitschagott' Bay, where the Russian- American Company have now an establishment. It is in latitude 52° 50', and nine miles from *^^he eastern point of the island. This is the western extremity of the Aleutian chain, which forms the southeastern limit of the sea of Beh'ing. The two islands lying near the coast of Kamtschatka, Copper and Behring's Islands, though lying one hundred and eighty miles to the northwest, might also be considered as a continuation ol" the chain; but, as they are more connected with the western coast, they will be dojjcribed with it hereafter. CHAPTER IV. THE SEA OF BEHKING, BEH RING'S STRAIT, &c. The extensive and inclemeat sea, whose shores and islands are described in the present chapter, derives its nanu' from the celebrated liussian navigator who first sailed in it, and made known to Europe the roal character of the extremities of the Xew and Old Worlds. The ap[)ellation t)f the Sea of Behring was first and Justly applied to it by Cai)tain Golownin. This replaced those by which it had been imi)roper]y designated, such as the Sea of Otters (B(,brovo'ie ;) but it has for many years lost the exclusive claim to this title. There is no more reason why it should be ternuMl the Sea of Kamtschatka, sonu'times given to it, than that of Aliaska or the Aleurian. The name of Behring is therefore most apt. After the revival of learning in the fifteenth and sixteenth (lenturies, the desire of gaining increased knowledge of everything that could be acquired of the actual nature of the v nld, then known but to a very TB!?!i5wW^PJB^BW''!!i™pP?TOwp^^ ''■'' ' till [ 120 ALASKA DIRECTORY. limited extent, led to numerous expeditions of discovery. For the most part, these expeditions were dispatched from Europe to the westward, and thus the progress of acquaintance with the shores of the great ocean was towards the north, and it will be seen that territorial acquisi- tions proceeded chronologically in this way. In this part, however, the furthest extremity of the world, a new system of operations was brought into action. Here the progress of discovery was in an opposite direc- tion. The Eussian Czar, Peter the Great, to wnom the half of a great continent still seemed not sufficient, drew up with his own hand, shortly before his death, the instructions for a voyage whoso object was to ascer- tain whether Asia was separated from America by a strait, and then to extend the Russian dominion beyond such a limit, should nature have thus marked it. But in the distant regions of this vast empire there were no means by which such au exploratory voyage could be organized. They were there fore sent from Russia: Vitus Behring and Alexoi Tschirikoif were chosei by the Empress Catharine to execute this part of the will of her great l)artner and predecessor in power. The two ships destined for this expe dition were constructed at Kamtschatka, the first of their kind that had been seen in this the extremity of a land then scarcdy known. They did not set sail from the mouth of the Kamtschatka River until July 20, 1728. Behring shaped his course to the northeast, never losing sight of the Asiatic coast. On AugUvSt 15th he reached latitude 07° 18' north, at a point (now Cape Serdze Kamen) where the coast turned to the west- ward, from which he returned to the port whence he sailed, without having seen the American coast. He had thus entered the icy ocean without knowing it; he had solved the great problpiu, and posterity has imposed the name of Behring upon this strait, the reality supplying the place of the fabulous Strait of A.nian. Behring and Tschirikott' made a second voyage in 1729, but it yielded no new information. A third time did the same commanAers set sail from Kamtschatka, June 4, 1741 ; this time with the intention of making the American (con- tinent to the eastward, the result of which voyage is alhuled to in chap- ter II. Behring then sailed through the chain of islamls skirting the great Peninsula of Aliaska. On August 29th he anchored at the Choumagin Islands. After this he struggled against contrary winds till September 24tli, when he made the southwest extremity of Aliaska. In the course of the next month he discovered part of the Aleutian Islands. By this time the commander was ill and decaying The greatest part of the crew, too, were attaciked by that frightful disease scurvy. Behring's ships and crew were reduced to the greatest distress by the weather and sutt'erings they encountered. Worn out with these, they made for the island now bearing his name; but the ship was straiided. Many of the crew died as they were removed into the air from the ter- rible scourge of scuivy that had attacked them. Ou November 0th the ALASKA DIRECTORY. J21 20, the atka, coii- •liiip- 'leat liipn y the tlioy lided. ter- h the captain himself was brought on shore on a hand-barrow, and died on December 8, 1741. " He was a Dane by birth, and had in liis youth made voyages to the East and West Indies, wlien the glorious example of the immortal Emperor, Peter the Great, tempted him to seek his fortune in Russia. I have found it somewhere that in the year 1707 he was a lieutenant, and in 1710 captain-lieutenant, in the Russian fleet. When he was made a captain I cannot exactly determine. Having thus served in the Cronstadt fleet from its beginning, aud been in all the expeditions by sea in the war with the Swedes, he joined to the capacity recpiisite for his office a long experience, which made him i)ar- ticularly worthy of such exploits as were the discoveries wherewith he had been twice intrusted. It is a pity that it was his fate to end his life in such an unfortunate nmnner. He may be said to have been buried half alive, for the sand rolling down occasionally from the side of the ditch in which lie lay, and covering his feet, he at hist would not suffer it to be removed, and said that he felt some warmth from it, whidi other- wise he should want in the remaining parts of his body, and thus the sand increased to his belly; so that, after his decease, they were obliged to scra])e him out of the ground in order to inter him in a proper manner." (Miiller, p. 55.) The ship, the St. Peter, was subsequently wrecked at her anchors, and the survivors constructed a small vessel from her timber, by means of which thej reached Port St. Peter and St. Paul on the 27th of August ensuing, having existed on the seals' and whales' flesh thrown on the shores of the ishiiid. Among those who reached Euroi)e safely were Miiller, the historian of the expedition, and the celebrated i)hilosopher, Gmelin. Steller, the natiiralist, died on his journey. Tschirikolf's voyage was less unfortunate than his commander's; but he scarcely had fewer hardships. He returned to Russia after having ( x])lored part of tlie American coast. Such was the success of the first Russian exi)editions. They were fol lowed at intervals by many others, among which the names of Glotoff, Synd, Krenitzin, and Levacheff, stand most conspicuous. The details of these voyages, mostly in the Aleutian chain, are given in the interest- ing work of the Rev. William Coxe,* whose influence at St. Petersburg led to the advancenuMit of scientific research in this part. The great Rritish navigator, James Cook, entered the Icy Ocean, and ascertained the exact nature of the continental separation first traversed by Behring in August, 1778 ; and his second in conjmand, Cajitain Clerke, after his sad catastro])he at Hawaii, again penetrated to the icy barrier in Jidy, 1 77J). The abortive Russian expedition under Comtiu)d(n-e Jose])h Rillings, an Englishman, made by order of the Empress Catharine II, in 1785 to 1701, did not penetrate the strait, one great object of the ex- pedition, after having traversed the Sea of Behring. For the account of this voyage, which cost so much time and expense in preparation, we * RuHHiaii Diseovi'iies, by W. Coxo, 4t<), Loiulou, 1780. Mi r'iyTj!f^T!frii^i:ffii^'^/v;^i'^rvW'<^>"i'^7^ . ' "r''W^T>'Si-\'WVw't<5»i'.' 122 ALASKA DIREOTORY. m^m^ii^ li 11 tl 1 fl- are indebted to the secretary, Martin Saner, who ])ubli.shed an edition in English, and to Captain Sarytschetl", the second in command, who publislied anotlier acconnt in Russian. Otherwise we should have received no information whatever from this expedition. In 1817 Captain Otto von Kotzebue examined and named most of the points on the American coast of Behring's Strait; and in 1820 his lieu- tenant, Schischmareff, again visited its shores. The Asiatic coast, from East Cape to Kamtschatka, is amply described from the admirable survey s'ud examinations of Captain (since Kear- Admiral) Frederic Liitke. In 182G the Russian corvettes, tlie Moller, Captain Stanikowitch, and the Seniavine, under Captain Liitke, were dispatched to these seas. The Seniavine examined almost the whole of the western shores, and to the account of this voyage we owe our descriptions. To British navigators we are indebted for the accurate knowledge Ave. possess of the American shores. This is from the memorabh^ voyage of his Majesty's ship Blossom, under Captain F. W. Bee(;hey, who minutely surveyed the eastern shores of the strait. Tliis ship was sent from England to co-operate with the Arctic expedition, dispatched to examine the northern coast of America. It was anticipated that one branch, under Dr. (afterwards Sir John) Franklin, would have reached the Pacific, but, after two attemi)ts made by the Blossom in the sununers of 182G and 1827, the object was relinquished. To the intrepid voyager. Sir John Franklin, we are indebted for the last of these expeditions. The intense anxiety of the whole world to aid in the succor of the well-known Arctic expedition, commenced in 1846, caused the Biitish admiralty to send her Majesty's shi])s Herald. Captain Hellett, and Plover, Commander Moore, through the straits iu 181J). In company Avith these the schooner yacht, Nancy Dawson, under her owner, Robert Shedder, esq., penetrated to the extreme north and east. They made scAcral interesting discoAcries, hereafter alluded to, and proceeded further north than any before, though, as is but too well known, without succeeding in the object of the expedition. Whales have been found to be numerous in the Icy Ocean. Captain Beechey notices this: "Oft" Icy Cape we saw a great many black Avhales, more than I ever remember to have seen in Baffin's Bay." (Voyage of the Blossom, vol. i, p. 27G.) The pursuit may be followed during July and August; and in consequence of the high latitude, there is light enough throughout the night for the purpose — no small advantage. Another point, too, is, that the depth not being great, seldom ex- ceeding twenty or thirty fathoms, there are no floating icebergs of formidable dimensions, as compared with other icy regiou'j, and there is good anchorage everywhere. On the other hand, thick fogs, strong currents, and imperfect charts, render the operations somewhat pre- carious. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 123 The i)orts and their capabilities, on the American side, are amply described. Of the American iuliabitants we will say a few words: The Western Esquimaux seem to be very nearly connected with the other tribes inhabitinj^ the northern and northeastern shores of America, in their features, language, and habits. They alsQ resemble the Tchuktchi, from whom they are probably descended. Those 0(!cupying the north- western coast of America, between (>l° M' and 71° -4' north, are a nation of fishermen, dAvelling near the sea-shore, from which they draw almost their entire subsistence. Tliey construct their yourts, or winter residences, partly ex(!avated in the earth, and partly covered with moss laid upon i)oles of drift-wood, upon convenient positions for their occu- pation. Th 63" form themselves into communities, seldom exceeding one huiulred persons. Beech ey reckoned nineteen of these villages within the above limits, the total number not exceeding 2,r)()0 persons. They are taller than the Eastern Es([uimaux, averaging five feet seven and a half inches; they are also better-looking than tlij;)se of Baftiu's Bay, &c. They difler widely, too, from the inhabitants of Greenland, being more continent, industrious, and provident, and also more warlike, irascible, and uucourteous, and nearly resembling in these respects the Tchuktchi. Hospitality forms one distinguishing feature of their dis- position; smoking is their favorite habit, to whic^h tiiey are passionately devoted. The lip ornament, or labret, before irentioned, is here peculiar to the males of the Western Esquimaux, and is only in use from Norton Sound to Mackenzie Kiver, on the north coast. It is an ancient custom, as it is described by Deschnew in 1048. It is singular that it is here confined to the men only for a short distance, while southward the custom prevails among the females on a great extent of coast. Their language so nearly resembles that of the eastern tribes that they are mutually under- stood; south of Norton Sound, however, tliis remark does not hold good. When (Japtain Beechey was on the coast, in 182()-'27, he found them somewhat annoying and treachero'is <\i times. It is evident, however, that this must have arisen from their imperfect conception of the object of his visit. Since that period they hav^e greatly im])roved in this respect; and during the p. ogress of the expedition in 1841), Captains Kellett, Moore, and Shedden found tliem pleasant, docile, and very trac- table. This w ,s .31 part owing ta their having a proper interpreter, who explained what their object was. The Russian settlements, too, have been very instrumental in causing this alteration in their conduct. Many of them were found with shirts, gaudy handkei chiefs, cottons printed with Avalrus, reindeer, and all other animals they are in the habit of catching, and representations in ivcuy of knives and kettles, all procured from the Eussians. They were at last very anxious to obtain muskets, and evinced no fear in discharging them. The Peninsula of Aliaska,* whose southeastern coast has been pre- * Ciiptaiu Liltko says, that in Hpcllinji; this Aliaslta he follows the orthography gen- erally a;'^nrflT'^^trf!?^ iM tt ,, i , 124 ALASKA DIRECTORY. viously described, forms, with the Aleutian Archipelago, the southern limits of Behriiig's Sea, or, as it has been .-tometiines called, the Sea of Kamtschatka. The descrii)tion is therefore resui.ied at the poijit where the former left off, namely, at the Strait of Isunotzky. There appears to be considerable uncertainty as to the correctness of the charts of the coast, immediately to the northeast of the Strait of Isanotzky. It was partially explored in baidars from the corvette Moller. Point Krenitzin appears to be the first prominent point to the north- ward. It is the extremity of a low bed of gravel, and is the northwest- ern point of an open bay, on the east side of which is the village Morjovskoi, (Morses.) This village stands on low, marshy land, inter- sected with numerous lakes. Wood or trees are very rare here; but the natives live well, and cultivate potatoes and turnips in their gardens, and raise poultry. Izenbek Bay (or, according to Krusenstern, Comte Heiden Bay*) is the next port in proceeding northward. Its southwestern point, Cape (rlaze- nap, or Mitkoff of Kiusenstern, according to the observations mad by Liitke, is in latitude 55° 14' 8" north, and longitude l()2o 50' 7" west. This cape is very remarkable by a considerable elevation, and by its form ; at a distance it is like an island separated from the low land to the south of it. The mouth of the bay is filled up by a long and very low island, which at high water is divided into two or three. Its south point is about a mile distant from Cape Glazenap, and its north point above two miles from (Jape Moffet. This extensive gulf has iiot been fully described. The depth in the south entrance was found to be four and a half and five fathoms, bottom of fine black sand. From the top of Cape Glazenap the depth appeared greater to the southward; and on the east side of the island there was a large (piantity of whalebone, which shows that there is depth enough for these animals. From these circumstances it was ctinsidered that Izenbek Bay would (^ffer anchorage, and therefore merits a more minute examination. Tlie eastern coast of the bay is surrounded by high mountains, covered with snow. Amak or Aamak Island lies off this part of the coast. It is an extinct volcano, covered with calcined stones and lava. It is rather less fi'an four miles in length, in a north 17° west, and south 17° east, direc- n. Its south extremity is in latitude 5.")° 25', and longitude 1(>.'}° 1' ,'30". ' two mile^ northwest by compass from its north end is a rock called tk< Sivoutchy (or Sea-Lions') Rock. Between the island and the nniin the depth is from nine to fourteen fathoms. The soundings in the ofting are not deep. Captain Cook found nineteen fathoms at three or four leagues off the south part of the island. They also caught here a good number of fine codfish.t Captain Stanikowitch found the magnetic variation to be 21^° east, in 182G. The coast to the northward presents nothing very remarkable. It * It will be seen hereafter that Stanikowitch gives this name to a bay to the northeast. t Cook's Third Voyage, vol. ii. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 125 hrec- ;k)". alletl four • ood netic . It licast. trends first northeast and then ea,st. For a distance of fifty miles there are only two capes, somewhat higher than the rest; to these the names of the lieutenants of the corvette MoUer, lieontovitch and Leskoff, were applied. In this space there is much drift-wood, and the nature of the coast is generally a damp turf, covered with moss, frequently interrupted by lakes of fresh water. Cape Leontovitch is the most conspicuous, as beyond it the coast trends more to the east. It is low, and the land extends in a mossy and marshy i)lain to the foot of the mountains, parallel with the coast, at fifteen miles distant. Cape Ilojnott', or Itoslmott', whicrh is at the extremity of the extent of coast above albnled to, is very low ; and at one and a half mile from it is the westerii point of Kritskoi Island, also very low ; the two form the entrance to a shallow bay, which runs in first west by south, and then south by west, by compass, to a low isthmus, three miles in breadth, separating it from Pavloft' Baj^, on the south coast of Aliaska. When the tide is in, this bay appears of vast extent; but at low water it is nearly dry throughout, leaving only a narrow an«l sinuous channel through it. The chain of mountains which extends through the penin- sula is interrupted in this part. The rise of the tide is fifteen feet, and the (approximate) time of high water is Ih. 30w. MoLLER Bay is a large indentation of the land, which narrows the peninsula to twelve miles in breadth at this part. A large portion of this bay is filled with shoals, which uncover at low water; but in its south- east angle is a small cove, where there is sufficient water for every de- scription of vessels, and which is covered from seaward by a bed of gravel which advances to the south. This is the only port which exists on all the north coast of Aliaska. It is about a mile in length and breadth, and the hiad gives from four and a half to eight fathoms, umddy bottom. In entering it, you must range close to the bed of gravel, the edges of which u'e clear and deep, to avoid a shoal, which is less than a mile from it; a.-d as soon as you have made out this bed of gravel, steer for a point on the "ast side of the port, which is particularly remarkable by its blackish color, and which lies about one and a half mile northeast by east by compass from the extremity of the gravel bed. The moun- tains, which are of a moderate height, advance here to the coast, leaving no room for the mossy plains which generally occupy the space between the loot of the ujoun tains and the sea shore. This part, the most remark- able on the northwest sbore of Aliaska, deserves a more particular exam, ination, as it was only superficially explored in the boats of the corvette. Moller. The bay is about six miles wide in its opening. Its entrance, on ths west side, is formed by the east point of Kritskoi Island, which was determined to be in 5G° 0' 7" and longitude 160° 41' west. The extrem- ity of the bed of gravel which forms the port is seven and a half miles to the southeast by east (by compass) from this. Kritskoi Island ex- tends nine miles alopg the coast in a west by south and east by north ' ft ^.T:'';*'s?B''«T87'j»?viytTiT=T::'^:rj^?7f«j^ :• "'(11^,^ ^^^\i. VT' . ^.'i?vif>fy'j:;.^7il^?7-y'!!^^ 126 ALASKA DIRECTORY. is I direction. It is so low in several parts that at high water it must be overflowed. The strait which separates it from the (lontinent is one and a half mile broad, and has very little water ; at low water, spring tides, it mnst be nearly dry. A great nnmber of morses frequent the eastern end of the island, the coast being covered by thonsanda of them at times. ()p]>osite its Aveat end is Cape Kojiiott", before mentioned. From Moller bay the coast trends to the north by east, and at twenty miles distant is Cape Kontouzoif. This cape is high and abrupt, and thirteen miles northeast from it is Cai)e Seniavine, also high and steej), the space between being low, either marshy or covered with grass and furrowed by numerous fresh-water rivulets. About midv.ay l)etween are two hillocks on the coast. Tlie peaks of some of the nu)untaina in the background are so high as to be (jovered with snow thvonghont the summer. Cape Sdniavine is in latitude 5(5° 23' 45", and longitude 160° 2' 45" west. Tlie coast beyond this olfers nothing remarkable for a considerable distance. It consists of a low, level, mossy plain. At abont nine leagues from Cape Seniavine, a low bed of gravel couunences, which extends in front of the coast for ten miles, se])arated from it by a shallow canal, v,'hich at low water becomes a lake, discharging itself by two small streams at either end. Beyond this the low level coast extends ten miles further to Cape Strongonotf. This is extremely low, and projects two miles to the north. In the interval on the shore is a great (jnantity of drift-wood, some large trees being anu)ng it. CoMTE Heiden Bay (or, according to Krnsenstern, Houdobin Bay*) is formed by the low Cape Strogonoft" to the Avestward. Before this cape is an islet, equally low, called on the chart Chestakott" Islet, and between this islet, or rather between the shoal off its north end and the coast of the continent, is the entrance of the bay, which extends six miles to the southeast, and the oi)ening is two and a lialf miles broad. It is not known whether there be any anchorage in it. From this the coast, equally low, uniform, and covered with moss, trends to the uorth-northeast. In latitude 57° 5' are two moderately high capes terminating to seaward in sandy downs. Cape Menchikoff (named after the prince) is in latitude 57° 30' 4", and longitude 157° 58' 5". It consists of a mound of sand, from the flat- tened summit of which may be seen the marshy land surrounding it on all sides, which at high water may be covered and form the cape into an island. At eight miles northeast from this is the mouth of the river Ougat- chick, called the Soulima in the jourh.d of the Moller and by Krnsen- stern, which is two miles broad; the south side is a marsh, the north side higher. The depth in its entrance is from ten to eighteen feet at low water. The current in it is extremely rapid, and the natives say ' See Izeubek Bay. .i*ifpiii^pinR^*jit,i^p^P7Pnip"«'jiR"*ni>Kv^n*«Fv^pvl» and steep : its hititude is 57° 4.']', and l()n«>itnde 157° 47' 2", and is aurronnded by sand-banks, dry at low water. From this the coast trends, low, level, and straij;ht, in a genend north 17° east direction to the month of the Agoupiek Kiver. Cai)tain Cook, in passiiif? along the (!oast, July 0, 1778, says: <'At noon we were in latitude 57^ 49', and about two leajiuea from the land, which extended from south by east to east-northeast, beinj^ all a low coast, with iwints shootinj>' out in some places, whi(;h from the deck appeared like islands : but from the masthead low land was seen to con- nect them. In this situation the depth of water was fifteen fathoms, the bottom a tine black sand.* Tlie River Agougack, or IJgagouck, Krusenstern considers to be the northern limit of the Peninsula of Aliaska, as it really separates Aliaska from the continent of Auierica. It here begins to extend in breadth, and the river traverses it from east to west, and rises in a lake called Nanouantoughat, which is only separated from the Strait of Chelighoft' by a neck of land five miles in breadth, at the ba(;k of the Bay of Pas- calo. Over this space was a portage for the merchandise collected by the Russian American Fur Company at the establishment in Bristol Bay, which is thus transported, by means of the river, to the headquar- ters at Sitka. The breadth of the river is about two miles at its mouth, and at about seven miles northeast by compass from it is a hill, which, with Cape Tschitchagoff, serves to i)oint out the i)osition of the entrance. Its shores are very low, particularly the south side. The current is very rapid, the tide rising twenty feet. Cape Tschitchagort" is bluff without being high, and surrounded for two miles distant by shoals, which, being left dry at low water, form a series of sand islets. From this cape a level marshy coast succeeds. Its aspect is most extraordinarily monotonous, and for thirty miles in a northeast by north direction, which it takes, there is only one spot, in about latitude 58° 35', where there is a hill, which rises about two hurulred yards from the sea, forming an elevation like a wall composed of sand and clay. Cape Souvoroft', which is at the distance above named, was the last point reached by Stanikowitch in the corvette Moller. It forms the north point of the mouth of the River Nanek or Nackneck. This river, flowing from a lake of the same name, traverses the Penin- sula of Aliaska. At its mouth it is about two-thirds of a mile in breadth, and there are two fathoms water in it. Its steep sides are formed of an adhesive clay. On each side of the mouth are villages. That to the right is Koutchougoumut, that to the left Paougvigumut. The position * Third voyage, vol. ii, p. 45J8. 128 ALASKA DIRECTORY. ifit 'II r:?;?! of the latter was ascertained to be in 58° 42' 5" north and IfiTo 0'30" west. The popnhition of the two villajyes was about five hundred. The river Nanek abounds with ati extraordinary (juantity offish. This, with reindeer and birds, forms the supplies of the natives. From the evi- dences seen on its borders, tlu^ tide rises in the river to thirty feet.* "As we had advanced to the northeast we had found the depth of water jyradually ihicreasinj?, and the coast trending;' more and more north- erly. But the ridge of mountains behind it continued to lie in the same direction as those more westerly; so that the extent of low land between the foot of the mountains and the seacoast insensibly increased. Both high and low grouiuls were perfectly destitute of wood, but seemed to be covered with a green turf, except the mountains, which were covered with snow." — {Cai)tain Cook.) Bristol Bay. — The coast we have been describing forms tiie south- ern portion of the coast of the bay, that named by Captain Cook after the admiral, the Earl of Bristol. This great indentation was sailed around by Captain Cook, but the shoals which obstruct it prevented his making a detailed examination of its shores. This work was undertaken in 1818 by Oustugoff, at the desire of the late Count Komanzott", who also bore a part of the expenses; but, as this officer did not possess sufficient scientific knowledge to carry it completely into effect, Lieutenant Chramtschenko, an officer of merit, was sent in 1821 to examine it in detail.! Cape Newenham forms the northern point of this bay, and, according to Admiral Krusenstern, Cape Ounimak, the western point of the island of that name off Aliaska, may be taken as its southern limits, and which lies eighty-two leagues to the south-southwest of Cape Newenham, so that the northwest coast of Aliaska forms the southern part of Bristol Bay. This bay contains another inner bay, which is formed by a promon- tory, named Cape Constantine on the Russian charts, and within which three rivers debouch. The northernmost of these is the Bristol Eiver. The Ouglaghmoutes (as the inhabitants of the shores of the bay are called) give it the name of (Juitshak. It takes its rise in a lake named on the Russian charts Lake Clieleghoff, which is again connected with another lake, Ilimen, by a second river. The latter lake is in latitude 59° 50.' Captain Cook's account of his making the mouth of this river is thus: " Behind this point is a river, the entrance of which seemed to be a mile * Liitke, Voyage, &c., Part. Nant., p. 257, et seq. t Subsequeutly to 1821, Lieutenant Chramtschenko, (who accompanied Kotzebne in the Rurick,) together with M. Etoline, a naval officer in the Russian American Com- pany's service, were annually tlispatched, in two vessels, to explore the American coasts. To thesj offlj^rs wo own tha more accurate knowledge of all the coiist from Cape New- enham to Norton Sound, which Ca])tain Cook could not approach on account of the shoal water. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 129 I thus : mile |bue in Com- I coasts. New- I of the broad, but I can say iiothin;; as to ita depth. The water appeared dis- colored, as upon shoals, but a calm would have given it the same aspect. It seemed to have a winding' direction through th(i great tlat that lies between the chain of mountains to the southeast and tlie hills to the northwest. It must abound with salmon, as we saw nmiiy leaj)- ingin the sea before tlie entrance; aiul some were fimnd in the maws of the cod which we had caught." — (Vol. ii, p. 429.) Cook's determination of its position, latitude 58° 27', longitude 201"^ 55', may thus not be so exact as usual. A short distance east, and ten miles to the north of the mouth of the river, as it is marked by Cook, is that of the Naneck, which has an east and west direction, and near which is a village of Ouglaglimoutes. The third river which enters this inner bay, to. the west of the Bristol River, is called the Nouchagack, or N^oushagak. Its course is in a north- northwestern direction. The opening formed on the north by the coast, and by Cape Constantino on the south, may bo taken iis its mouth, which is twenty miles broad, and preserves this breadth to the distance of thirty miles; it then turns rather more to the eastward, and its breadth begins to diminish. In latitude 58° 57' the river is still three miles broad, and it is here, on the left» bank, that the company have founded an establishment, which is called Alexandroffsk. A bank fifteen miles in length lies before this establishment ; and it is between this bank and the main land that there is a passage to the road of Alexan- drott'sk. Baron Wrangel, who explored the Nouchagak in 1832, discov- ered a passage between these banks, with which the river is filled during the ebb. The tides are very strong in the river ; they rise twenty-three feet in the summer months, and forty seven feet in the autumn.* The ebb lasts an hour longer than the flood tide, and its force is from four to five miles an hour. The extremity of Cape Constantino is in latitude 58° 29' north, and 158° 45' west. It is the same land that Cook saw on July 10, 1778, but could not approach for the shoal water, as the ships were obliged to stand oflf in four fathoms water. The examination of Lieutenant Chramt-* schenko proves that Cape Constantino is surrounded by sand-banks to the distance of four leagues to the southward ; in general, all the coast between the mouths of the Nouchagak and Bristol Rivers is bounded by similar sand-banks, which extend so far out to sea that the space com- prised between Cape Constantino and the coast, considered as the outer entrance to the Nouchagak River, is narrowed to seven miles. The eastern point of this bay forming this entrance is named Cape Etoline, The bay itself is called Chramtschenko Bay, after the Russian surveyor.. From Cape Constantine the coast takes a westerly direction, and forms, with Cape Newenham, an extensive bay of thirty-five leagues in * In this great rise of tide it resembles the channel of the same name in the west of England, and all other similarly constituted bays. 9 AD m ^fTvrw:ifr>r.7^r^''W7^'"w continent, and obtained this name trom its fijjnre. To the noi'thwt'st of it are two or three liilhx^ks that appeared like islands, bnt, as the shijis passed at too great a distance, this was not determined. At the distance of twenty miles to the we/it of Uoiind Island is a larger one, abont fifty miles in circnmference, which has been named Hagemeister Island, after the captain of that name, who was for some time (commander of tln^ Russian company's (iolonies here, ('ook saw its southern iK)int without suspe(!ting it to be part of an island: "It is an elevated i)oint, Avhich obtained the name of Calm I'oiut, from our having calm weather when ott' it." (Cook, vol. ii, p. 4.31.) Be- tween this point and Round Island there are four other islands in a northeast direction. Lieutenant Cramtsc^henko passed between these islai'ds, and between the main land and Hagemeister Island. This channel is about eight miles in length, and it may be passed through cither from the north or south ; the anchorage in it is safe throughout. It is (railed the Hagemeister Channel. At eight leagues to the west from Calm I'oiut is a point which is without any name on Cook's chart, Jind behind which, according to Cramtschenko, there is a small bay, which affords an anchorage. Cape Neweniiam is five leagues - the west of this bay. The follow- ing is Captain Cook's account of it : '-^v,, • in the morning of the IGth July, 1778, the fog having cleared up, we loi». l ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Calm Point bore north 72° east, and a point eight leagues from it, in the direction of west, bore north 3° east three miles distant. Between these two points the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly visible from tk''' n.asthead. There is also a bay on the northwest side of this last poiu., between it and an clevr. ;ed promontory, which at this time borv i/',rth 30^ west, sixteen miles distant. At nine I sent Lieutenant Williamson to this promon- ^tory, with orders to laud, and see what direction the land took beyond it, and what the country prodaced ; for from the ships it had but a bar- ren appearance. We found here the flood tide setting strongly to the northwest along the coast. At noon it was high water, and we anchored in twenty-four fathoms, four leagues distant from the shore. At five in the afternoou, the tide making in our favor, we weighed, and drove with it, for there was no wind. " Soon after Mr. Williamson returned, and reported that he had landed on the i)oint, and, having climbed the highest hill, found that the furthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north-. He took pos- session of the country in his Majesty's name, and left on the hill a bottle, on which was inscribed, on a piece of paner, the names of the ships, and the date of the discoverj-. The promontory, to which he gave the name of Cape Keweriliam, is a rocky point of tolerable height, situated ALARKA UIRKCTORY. 131 1 le had (I that Ik pos- jbottle, ships, i,ve the Ituated in hititiuh' 5Ho 4L", and in loiiffitudo 1^7 M'. Over, or within it, are two (Ut^vatt'd hills, risin;; ou(» behind tho other. Tlie innermost, (u east- erninoNt, is th(^ hij;:heHt. The country, as far as Mr. Williamson eould see, produces neitluu* tree nor shrub. The lulls are naked; but on the lower grounds grew grass and other plants, very few of which were iu flower, lie saw no other ivninial but a ay. The whole coast is intersected by great and small rivers, some of which, as the Kvikhpak and the Kviklduak, form immense gulfs on reaching the sea. The ftrst of these rivers has a long course, and its banks are well peopled. One of the company's vessels attempted to ascend it in 1831, but without success. Almost all these rivers communi(;ate with each other. The shoals which line the space we have b.ien speaking of, according to what the iidiabitants^ay, do not reach to the coast itself, but leave between a channel deep enough for ships ; it is on'y off' the moutlis of the rivers that it is broken by other banks, between which are the passes. This formation is attributed to the ices brouglit down by the streams. Thus tluMvaterw from the rivers Kvikhpak and Postoliak, running to the north, and those of the Kvikliluak and the Kouimla to the south, form channels on either side. M. Tebenkoff supposes that gieat depths will f^ * Called by the natives Asiatchak. t Cook's Third Voyago, vol. ii, pp. 489, 490. 134 ALASKA DIRECITORY. I?' i I be found in many places between the banks. The bottom throughout the extent they occupy is a vast collection of sand. Stuart's Island lies in latitude 63° 35'. It is six or seven leagues in circuit. Some parts of it are of a middling height; but in general it is low, with some rocks lying off the western part. The coast of the con- tinent is for the most part low land, but high land was seen uji the coun- try. Some drift-wood was seen upon the shores both of the island and of the continent, but not a tree was perceived growing upon either. One might anchor, upon occasion, between the nortlieast side of this island and the continent, in a depth of five fathomS; sheltered from westerly, southerly, and easterly winds. But this station would be wlioUy exposed to the northerly wiiius, the land in that tlirection being at too great a distance to afford nuy security.* To the northward of Stuart's Island Captain Cook passed two small islands against the coast, and as he ranged it several people appeared upon the shore, and, by signs, seemed to invite them to approach. Besborough Island was seen at fifteen leagues oft' by Cook, and though it lies six or seven miles from the continent, has no channel inside it for shi])s, on account of the shallowness of the water; and to the northeast of it is Chaktolimout Bay. Captain Cook anchored in it September 7 to 10, 1778. He say-s it is but an indifferent station, being exposed to the south and southwest winds. But he \vas so fortunate as to have the wind from the north and northeast all the time, with remarkably fine weather. Variation, 25° 4o' east. Dip of the needle, 7()0 25'. Of the tides it was observed that the night flood rose about two or three feet, and tiuit the day flood was hardly perceivable.t Chaktolimout Bay, called by ( 'ook Chacktoole, is an open bay between Cape . 1. 'ibigh and Stephens. It is surrounded by a low shore, Avhere J • . *• iS so shoal that, as before mentioned, there is no passage for sbi^, ween Besborough Island and the main, though it is six or seven miles oft' it. The southern i)art of the bay was examined in 1831 by Lieutenant Tebenkott", whose description is given at length by Liitke. The following is an extract : " TkbejSKOFP Cove. — On the north side of Cape Stephens, at eleven miles to the east of the north extremity of Stuart Island, is a cove dis- covered by me in 1831. It penetrates one and a half miles t«> the south- southwest, and is closed on the south by a small low island, on each side of which is a strait. The bay is not more than a mile broad. At its west extremity are two islets, very close to the coast. As far as the middle of the bay there are twenty-one to twenty-four teet water. The anchorage under the west side, opposite the village, is onlj oxp^ ',»'i lo north-northwest and northeast ; but even with these winds tin*: e is no heavy sea. " On the west side, two-thirds of a mile to the south of the viPagi-, the Euasian company have recently erected a small fort. Cook's Third Voyage, vol. ii, p. 48S. t Ibid,, p. 485. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 135 even e dis- soiitli- eacli At as the The "The entrance into the cove is not at all difflcnlt. After reacliing Stuart Island you can run parallel with the coast at the distance of a mile in not less than four fathoms water ; then you can range very close to the two islets on the west side of the cove. Coming- from the north you must make either Besborough or Egg Islands ; the first lies north 5° west from the cove, and the second at nine miles north-northeast by compass. Egg Island is smaller and lower than Besborough. The lati- tude of the anchorage is 03° 28' 30", the longitude 101° 52' west. Mag- netic variation, 30° cast."* Cape Denbigh is seventeen leagues from Besborough Island, in a direction north 27° east. It is the extremity of a peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each side of which the coast forms a bay, that to the southward being the Chaktolimout Bay just mentioned. " The berries to be got here were wild currant berries, hurtle berries, partridge berries, and heath berries. I also went ashore myself, and walked over part of the peninsula. In several places there Avas very good grass ; and I hardly saw a spot on wlii«'h some vegetable \yas not growing. The low land which connects this peninsula Avith the conti- nent is full of narrow creeks, and abounds with ponds of water, some of which were already frozen over. There were a great many geese and bustards, but so shy that it was not possible to get within musket-shot of them. We also met with some snipes; and on the high ground were partridges, of two sorts. When there was any wood, mosquitoes were in plenty. Some of the officers, who traveled further than I did, met with'u. "^AV .of the natives of both sexes, who treated them with civility. "I' ij/i.eared to me that this peninsula must have been an island in re; i. !^ i-:ir,s, for there were marks of the sea having flowed over the istLr'j. , . .id even now it appeared to be kept out by a bank of stones, sand, iAt ' wf )d, thrown up by the waves. By this bank it was evident that th". ) iL(d was here encroaching upon the sea, and it was easy to trace its ',radual formation,"t The V hole of the beach around the bay seemed to be covered with drift- T-ood; but on account of the shoals, which extend quite around, to Wie distance of two or three miles from the shore, it is impossible to get 't off. > ,0 head of Norton Sound was partially explored by ]\Ir. King, one of C(>, tflficers. From the heiglits, on the west side of the iidet, the two coasw were seen to join, and the inlet to terminate in a small river or creek, before which were banks of sand or mud, and everywhere shoal wat« r. The land, too, was low and swampy for some distance to the northward ; then it swelled into hills ; and the complete junction of those on each side of the inlet was easily tniced. From the elevated spot on which Mr. King surveyed the sound he * Viiyage rtii Sdniaviue, Part Naut., pp. 24S), 250. t Captaiu Cook, vol. ii, i)p. 483, 484. I --¥^' w 136 ALASKA DIRECTORY. pi' \li II -I could distinguish many extensive valleys, witli rivers running through them, well wooded, and bounded by hills of a gentle ascent and moder- ate height. One of these rivers, to the northwest, appeared to be con- siderable; and, from its direction, he was inclined to think that it emptied itself into the sea at the head of the bay. Some of his people, who penetrated beyond this into the country, found the trees larger the further they advanced.* Bald Head forms the northwestern limit of this inner sound, and is twenty miles to the northward of Cape Denbigh. On the west side of Bald Head the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where Captain Cook saw a number of huts, or habitations of the natives. At about twenty miles to the w ' «• n^hwest of this point the coast pro- jects out into a bluff head, compu.^ perpendicular strata of a rock of a dark-blue color, mixed with quarti- ad glimmer. There joins to the beach a narrow border of land, covered, when Cook landed, (September 10, 1778,) with long grass and some angelica. Beyond this the ground rises abruptly. At the top of this elevation they found a heath abound- ing with a variety of berries; and further (m the country was level aud thinly covered with small spruce trees, and birch and willows no bigger than broom stuff. They observed the tracks of deer and foxes on the beach, on which also lay a great quantity of drift-wood ; and there was no want of fresh water. The soundings oft" this shore are very shoal, not being more than six fathoms at a league oft", and decreasing to three and under to the east- ward. To the southwest of this point the country is covered with wood, an agreeable sight compared with that to the north. The coast cohtin- ues in a southwest direction as far as Cape Darby, where it turns to the north aud west. Cape Darby is in latitude 61° 21', longitude 162° 35' west. Captain Cook anchored off" it in a quarter less five fathoms, half a league from the coast, the south point of which bore south 20° west ; Bald Head, north 00° east twenty-six miles distant ; and Besborough Island, south 52° east fifteen leagues distant : ''As this was a very open road, and consequently not a safe station, I resolved not to wait to complete water, as that would require some time ; but only to supply the ships with wood, and then go to a more convenient place in search of the other article. We took off the drift-wood that lay upon the beach. In the afternoon I went ashore aiul walked a little way into the country, which, when there was no wood, was covered with heath and other plants, some of wbif'b i?roducc berries in abundance. All the berries were ripe, the hurtle berries to'o mu(!h so; and hardly a single plant was in liower. The umlermost, such as birch, willows, and alders, rendered it very trou- blesome walking among the trees, which were all spruce, and none of them above six or eiglit inches in diamet<;r. But we found some lying * Oil tho recent maps of this part of America a river is roi>reseuted as falling into this sound, up which is a trading post. •*'T??^"-.'«r''H*\""j?^i»,fAi J. j|W|!i iipi.iw'.v I CTmpff!pp(^^ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 137 iptain from lead, south , and ater, witli other n the hich, some >e, the lower. J trou- one of lying iig into upon the beaoh more than twice this size. All the drift-wood in these northern parts was fir. I saw not a stick of any other sort."* GoLOVNiNE Bay. — On the west side ol' Cape Darby is Golovnine Bay, discovered in 1821 by Captain Chranitschenko. The natives here term it Tatchik. Its opening is limited on the east by Cape Darby, and ou the west by Cape Kamennoi or Rocky, lying seven miles west-northwest of the first. The latter cape was so called from a flat and bare rock close to it. These two capes are high and steep, but Cape Darby is the high- est. .The bay extends first to north, and then to northwest. At three miles to the north of Cape Kamennoi, there is a bed of gravel across it, running oif to the east from the west side. At two miles from the east side of the bay, which is opposite to it, it is terminated by a reef of uncov- ered rocks, which, at a distance, is extremely like an artificial pier or mole, whence it is called the Stone Mole, or Kamennaia Pristau ; at the extremity of this bed of gravel is a temporary or summer village. On the left or northwest side, in a valley, is a forest of pine trees ; and beyond the bed of gravel the bay extends eight miles further to the north- west, but is §0 shallow as to be impassable for boats in some places. There is anchorage in all parts of the outer baj^ as far as the Stone Mole: bring it to bear from west to west-southwest; within this the depth rapidly decreases. M. Tebenkott' anchored in three and a half fathoms, with the Stone Mole bearing northwest or northwest one-quarter north ; Cape Darby, south 70o east ; and Cape Kamennoi, south 2° west by compass. In tliis situation there is the double advantage of collect- ing more readily the drift-wood thrown on to its west side, and to water in the small river which discharges itself into the west side of the gulf. This point is in latitude 01° 2G' 42". The longitude was assumed to be 163° 8'. The bay is perfectly clear throughout ; but, as it is open to winds from the south, the anchorage is not without some danger from this cause. The time of high water, the establishment, is 6 hours 23 minutes. At full moon it rises three feet eight inches. The inner bay communicates with the outer by a narrow gullet. At its head a large river discluirges by five mouths, which makes the water of the bay fresh. This great river, it is probable, communicates with an oijening in the mountains, which was seen to north 40° west from the head of the bay, and, according to some native information acquired by M. Chranitschenko, there is riv^er communication all the way to the Lake Imou-rouk, in Grantley Harbor, Port Clarence, so that this part of the coast is in reality an island. It took them five days to traverse this inland navigation in their baidars.t Aziak, Azjiak, or Ayak Island, called by Cook Sledge Island, on account of a sledge being found by him on it, is ten or twelve miles southeast one-half east of Cape Rodney. Its latitude is there given as * Cook, vol. ii, p. 479. tLiitke, Voyage, &c., Part Naut., pp. 246, 247. 138 ALASKA DIRECTORY. {■I ;f h' I I 'J ' 64° 30'. Its longitude will be about 100°. According to Cook it is about twelve miles in circumference. M. Tebenkoff does not think it to be more than a mile. He describes it as a rock rising six hundred anif forty-two feet above the water. A low point projects on its north side ; and on the east a village stands on the slope of the rugged coast. The island may be approached on all sides. The anchorage is bad to the east; the bottom is of large stones. It is better to the n<> h, near the point, although the current runs here three knoks, but tiic bottom is much better. There is neither tree nor shrub on the island, but aijiong the moss a number of edible plants may be found. The variation is 34° east. Oukivok, or King's Island of Captain Cook, is a rock seven hundred and fifty-six feet in height, not more than a mile in circuit, and cliffs on all sides. There is a village, the houses excavated in the rocks, on a rugged slope, at one hundred and fifty feet above the sea. The inhabit- ants are doubtlessly attracted by the number of morses which come round the island. Captain Cook's account of it is thus : " The surface of tjie ground is composed chiefly of large loose stones that are in many places covered Avith moss and other vegetables, of which there were above twenty or thirty different sorts, and most of them in flower ; but I saw neither shrub nor tree, either upon the island or on the continent. On a small low spot, near the beach where we hmded, was a good deal of wild purs- lain, peas, longwort, &c., some of which we took on board for the pot. We saw one fox, a few plovers, and some other small birds ; and we met with some decayed huts that were partly built below ground. People had lately been on the island, and it is pretty clear that thej^ frequently visit it for some ])urpose or other, as there was a beaten path from the one end to the other. We found, a little vray from the shore where we landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given to the island."* Point Eodney is a low point to the northwest one-half west of Sledge Island. " The island before us, which we supjiosed to be the continent of America, appeared low next the sea, but inland it swelled into hills, which rise one behind another to a considerable height. It had a greenish hue, but seemed destitute of wood, and free from snow. While we lay at anchor we found that the flood tide came from the east, and set to the west, till between 10 and 11 o'clock ; the stream set to the esistward, and the water fell three feet. The flood ran both stronger and longer than the ebb, from which I concluded that, besides the tide, there was a westerly current." t Point Rodney being low, and the water shallow, it is difficult to land. From the bea<}h to the foot of the mountain there is a plain about two miles wide, covered with lichens and grass, upon which Captain Beechey observed several herds of reindeer feeding ; but the comnmnication is * Cook, vol. ii, p. 441. t Cook, vol. ii, p. 440. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 139 in places interrupted by nnrrow lakes, which extend several miles along the coast. Upon the beach is a j>Teater abundance of drift-wood than is found on other parts of the coast. Several indications of the presence of iiduibitants were found. About two miles from the coast the country becomes mountainous, and far inland rises to peaked hills of great height, covered with perennial snow. Port Clarence, Avliich was explored and named by Captain Beechey, August, 1827,* is live leagues to the northward of Point Rodney. It was passed unnoticed by Cook in his passage through the strait, but this is not surprising, from the character of the land forming it. Poir, Spencer, thf3 north extremity of a low spit of land projecting about ten miles from the coast, forms the southern protection of ^his spacious harbor. It here forms a right angle, having a channel about two miles wide between its extremity and the northern shore. The southern side of Port Clarence is a low diluvial formation, covered with grass, and intersected by narrow channels and lakes. It projects from a range of cliffs which appear to have been once upon the coast, and, sweeping round, terminates in the low shingly point before named, Point Spencer. In one place this point is so narrow and low that in a heavy gale of wind the sea must almost inundate it ; to the northward, how- ever, it becomes wider and higher, and by the remains of some yourts upon it, has at one time been the residence of Estpiimaux. Like the land just described, it is intersected with lakes, some of which rise and fall with the tide, and is covered, though scantily, with a coarse grass. Near Point Spencer the beach has been forced up, by some extraordi- nary pressure, into ridges, of which the outer one, ten or twelve feet above the sea, is the highest. Upon and about these ridges there was a great quantity of drift timber, but more ou the inner side of the point than on the outer. The northern and eastern shores of Port Clarence slope from the mountains to the sea, and are occasionally terminated by cliffs. The soil is covered with a thick coating of moss, among which are a few plants. The valleys and hollows are all tilled with dwarf willow or birch. Grantley Harbor forms an inner harbor to the extensive and excel- lent bay just desci'ibed. The channel into it from the outer harbor is extremely narrow, the entrance being contracted by two sandy spits; but the water is deep, and in one part there is not less than twelve fathoms. At the upper end of tlu harbor is a second strait, about three hundred yards in Avidth, formed between steep cliflfs, but this channel, too, is contracted by sandy points. This strait probably com- municates with a large inland lake (Imou Eouk,) as described by the Esquimaux, as a largo body of nearly fresh water made its exit through it. At the entrance of the strait, called Toshook by the natives, * Port Clarence was for a loug time previously known to the '^ .^oiuns as Kaviayak Bay, but they did not know that it contained its excellent port. — Liitke. ml I r\ p I I'l •|f :l lii rT'-^'-^TT -nf"-, \-:^r""'' ■yr'' n«T>'yy''F^A ■ ""Cfrvi^^ ■ •!."^ m •9? »:t s:"V- t;i |! 140 AXASKA DIRECTORY. Beechoiy found an Esquimaux village, and upon the nortliem and eastern parts of the harbor there were two others. There are very few natives in the outer harbor. On the northern side there is a village of yourts, to which the inhabitants apparently only resorted in the winter. Some Esquimaux fishermen, upon the low point of the inner harbor, had been very successful. " These two ports," says Captain Beechey, "situated so near Behring'H Strait, may, at some future time, be of great importance to navigation, as they will be found particularly useful by vessels which may not wish to pass the strait in bad weather. To the outer harbor, which for con- venience and security surpasses any other near Behring's Strait with which we are acquainted, I attached the name of Port Clarence, in honor of his Most Gracious Majesty then Duke of Clarence. To the inner, which is well adapted to the purposes of repair, and is sufiiciently deep to receive a frigate, provided she lands her guns, which can be conveniently done upon the sand spit at the entrance, I gave the name of Grantley Harbor, in complimi i to Lord Grantley."* Point Spencer is in latitude 65° IG' 40", h)nj,-nide 100° 47' 50" west; variation, 25° 36' east. High water, fidl anu change, in the port, 4 hours 25 minutes. Point Jackson, named, like the last, from a distinguished naval officer, forms the north side of the entrance to Port Clarence. Off it the water is more shallow than ii 'lal. Cape York, named ifter the Duke of York, is a bold promontory, and near it there is probably a river, called Youj)-nut by the natives. From hence to Cape Prince of Wales the coast is of quit€ a different character to that to the northward of the latter, being bounded by steep, rocky cliffs, and broken by deep valleys, while the other is low, swampy ground. Cape Prince of Wales is the westernmost extreme of America. This celebrated promontory is the western termination of a peaked mountain, which, being connected with the main by low ground at a distance, has the appearance of being isolated. The promontory is bold, and remark- able by a number of ragged points and large fragments of rock lying upon the ridge which connects the cape with the peak. About a mile to the northward of the cape some low land begins to project from the foot of the mountain, taking first a northerly and then a northeasterly direction to Schischmaretf Inlet. Oft' this point is a dangerous shoal, upon which the sea breaks heavily. The natives have a village upon the low land near the cape, called Eidannoo, and another island called King-a-ghe, which appears to be a considerable mart; and as they gen- erally select the mouths of rivers for their residence, it is not improbable that a stream may here empty itself into the sea, which, meeting the current through the strait, may occasion the shoal. About fourteen miles inland from Eidannoo there is a remarkable conical hill, often vis * * Voyage of the Blossom, p. 543. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 141 has ark- Imile the loal, Jiipon lalled gen- )able the i'teeii vis ble when the mountain tops ate covered, whidi, being well fixed, will be found usolnl at such times by ships passing through the strait. Twelve miles further inland the country becomes mountainous, and is remarka- ble for its sharp ridges. The altitude of one of the peaks, which is nearly the highest in the range, is i2,59() feet. These mountains being covered with snow when the Blossom was here, (August, 1827,) gave the country a very wintry aspect. Off the cape is a \ 'iry dangerous shoal, stretching to the nortl 'ast from it. It takes the direction of the current, and is extremely danger- ous, in consequence of the water shoaling so suddei.ly and having deep water within it, by which a ship coming from the northward may be led down between the shoal and the land without any suspicion of her dan- ger. Though the Blossom found nothing less than tweni-y-seven feet water, as near as the soundings could be ascertained in so high a sea, yet, from the appearance of the breakers outside the place where she crossed, the depth is probably less. It is lemarkable that this spit of sand, extending so far as it does from the land, should have escaped the observation of the Russians as well as of our countrymen. Cook, in his chart, marks five fathoms close off the cape, and Kotzebue three fathoms ; but this spit .appeared to extend six or seven miles from it. The spit may be extending rapidly. The DiOMEDE Islands are three small islands occupying a conspicu- ous geographical position, as they lie between the nearest points of the two great continents of Asia and America, being thus in the very nar- rowest portion of Behring's Strait. They have been the subject of some slight dispute as to their real number. Our celebrated Captain Cook places three islands here in the middle of the strait. Kotzebue imagined that he saw a fourth, which, mast either have becTi overlooked by our luivigators. Cook and Clerke, or that it had been subsequently laised by an earthquake; but this state- ment was received with some doubt, even by the Russians themselves. The subject was set at rest by Captain Beechey, in tht Blossom, in 182G. They are three in number. The southeastern of the three islands is a high, square rock, named by Captain Beechey the Fairway Rock, and by the native who drew a chart of this region, C^o-ghe-e-ak. It is an excellent guide to the eastern chan- nel, which is the widest and best. The central island was named after the admiral, Krusenstern Island, and by the above-mentioned authority, Igna-look. It is an island with per])endicular cliffs and a flat surface. The third, or northwestern one, which is the largest, was named by Captain Beechey, after Kotzebue's supi)osed discovery, Ratmanoff Island, and Noo-nar-book by the native. It is three miles long, high to south- ward, and terminates, in the opposite direction, in low rocky cliffs, with small rocky points oft' them. East Cape, in almost every direction, is so like an island that Captain «:: I 1^V'"^"V'" '■■'■' "'" If**' 142 ALASKA DIRECTORY. |l:i lit -f It'. . iilii w- I Beecliey had no doubt it was the occasion of the mistake committed by the liussian navigator.* From Cape Prince of Wales the coast trends to the northward, the water being sliaUow just to the nortli of it, and from it there extends a shoal for eight or ten miles, a tongue of sand and stones, perhaps the effect of current, on which the Blossom was nearly lost in 1827. Out- side it the bottom is mud, but within the spit the water deepens and again changes to mud, and having ten and a half fathoms within two and a half miles of the coast. The coast itself is low, with a ridge of sand extending along it, on which are or were some Esquimaux habitations. The land behind is marshy in the summer, and extends, without anything remarkable for thirty-five miles, to the entrance of Schischmarett" Inlet. SciiiscHMAREFF Inlet was soiuimed by Kotzebue. The width between the opening. Cape Lowenstern being the northeast point, is ten miles, and the inlet itst^lf extends to the east-southeast as far as the eye can reach. It has not been explored, but it has been surmised that it may be part of the mouth of a very large river, the other branches of which debouch in the Bay of Good Hope or Kotzebue Sound. But this is mere conjecture, and the Esquimaux give no indication of such a fact. Sarytscheff Island lies immediately before its entrance. This island is low and sandy, and is apparently joined underwater to the southward to the strip of sand which fronts the coast extending towards Cape Prince of AVales. Captain Beechey noticed upon it a consimMnicatinj»" with sev lal lakes, which in spring no doubt dischar}?e a huf^e quantity of fresh water into the sound; though at the dry season of the year (Se[)tember) they were of incon- siderable size. A little to the northward of the creek there is a pointed hill, just six hundred and forty t'c\ t high by measurement, from whence the surrounding country is visible ; it is all covered, except the summit of this hill, with a dt ep swampy moss. The beach was strewed with a great quantity of drift-wood, some in a very perfect state ; they were all pine trees except one, api)arently a silver birch. From the mouth of this ri .er the ooast treruls nearly north by comi)ass, ab»)ut eight miles, when it tuins to the eastward, forming tlie southern side of Eschscholtz Bay. EscHSCHOLTZ BAY is a deep indentation of the soutlieast shore of Kotzebue Sound, extending for ten miles to the eastward within its entrance, which is formed by Chamisso Island and Ohoris Peninsula, extending from the north shore. The land about this part of the sound is generally characterized by rounded hills from about six huiulred feet to one thousand feet above the sea, with small lakes and rivers ; its surface is rent into deep furrows, which, until a very late period in the summer, were filled with water, and were covered with a liiick swampy moss, and in some places with long grass or bushes ; they are extremely tedious to traverse on foot. Early in the s-immer myriads of mosquitoes infest this swampy shore, and almost picclule the possibility of continuing any pursuit: but in August they begin to die otf, and soon afterwards entirely disappear. Almost the extreme area of Eschscholtz Bay within its entrance is very shallow, so that a ship cannot advance far beyond this jKiint, and is the north extreme part of the bay. The shore is of difficult access on account of long muddy flats extending into the bay, and at low water diying in some places a quarter of a mile from the beach. From the dettruction of the earthy cliffs surrounding it, by the summer thawing of the ice, the bay is most probably fast tilling up, and at no very dis- tant period will be left scarcely navigable for boats. It is in the southern part of the ba.> that a point very interesting to natu- ralists occurs, which received much attention from European savans at the time of its exj^loration by Kotzebue, and therefore was more closely examined by Captain Beechey, whose own words v^^ill afford the best description of the part in question : " While the duties of the ship were being forwarded under my first lieutenant, Mr. Peard, I took the opportunity to visit the extraordinary ice formations in Eschscholtz Bay, mentioned by Kotzebue as ' being covered witn a soil half a foot thick, producing the most luxuriant grass,' and containing abundance of mammoth bones. We stiiled up the bay, which was extremely shallow, and landed at a deserted vdlag'^ on a low sandy point, where Kotzebue bivouacked when he visited the place, and ALASKA DIRECTORY. 145 nnin- Dund; incon- >iiited hence iiumit le ill a jntly a north niuing lore of hin its linsuhi, zed by , above arrows, i water, les with on foot, y shore, but in pear, lance is int, and icesa on w water "om the thawing 'ery dis- to natu- Eivans at e closely he best my first jordiuary ' being lit grass,' 1 the bay. Ion a low face, and to which r aftorwiirdN gnvo the nnme of Elephant Pt)hit, from the bones of tluit animal being t'oniid near it. *' The cliils in whicli ti:is singuhir formation was discovered begin near this point, and extend westward nearly in a straight line to a roartial thawings and freezings; the ui)per soil becoming loosened by th<^ thaw is itself ultimately projected over the edge of the cliff", and thus gave rise to the deceptive apjiearance which misled the Russian officers. This fact was fully established by Oai»tain Becchey. Elephant Toint, before alluded to, is a low sandy projection from the interesting ditts above described, and was named thus from the fossi^ remains discovered in abundance near it, and that of the animal from which it is called among the nund»er. Some of these remains have been de])osited in the British Museum, adding one item to the wonders of geology. They are described in the appendix to the voyage of the Blossom. BucKLAND River, so named in compliment to the learned and excel- lent professor, enters Eschscholtz Bay about three miles east of Elephant Point. The wikeu by seve- ral iiik !8, in which there were a great many wild fowl. The country oi: the northern side of Eschscholtz Bay was found to be almost impassable from swamp, in September, 1820, notwithstanding that the season was so far advanced. It seeined as if the peaty covering obstructed the drainage, which was kept on the surface by the frozen subsoil. The ])ower of the sun was great, the theimometer rising to (i2° in the shade. On the side {)f the hill that sloped to the southward the willow and birch grew to the height of eighteen feet, and formed so dense a wood that it could not be penetrated. The trees bordering on the beech were u- venient for procuring water. Detached from Chamisso there is a steep rock, named, by way of distinction, Pultin Island, couiposed of moider- ing granite, whi(;h has broken away in sucli a manner that the remaining part assumes the form of a tow(?r. During the period of incubation of the a(iuatic birds evexy liole and projecting crag on the sides of this rock are occupied by them. Its shores resound with the chorus of thousands of the feathery trilie, and its surface presents a curiou.sly mottled carpet of brown, black, and white;, t The island is accessible in almost every quarter, and its center is in latitude (HP 13' 11" north, longitiule 1(51° 46' west. Variation, 31° 10' east ; higli water, full and change, at the the anchorage, 4 hours 42 minutes. The coast northward from Choris Peninsula extends nearly northwest for thirteen miles to Cai)e Blossom, named after Captain Beechey's ship. This cape is au ice formation of a similar nature to that noticed in Esch- scholtz Bny, only more extensive, and having a contrary aspect. The ice here was foand, on examining it from above, to l)e detached from the cliff at the back of it, additional evidence as to its formation. tri)on the beach under the dill's there was an abundance of diift\\ood, beech and pine; one of the latter wna a tree of three feet in diameter, which was fresh, and washed up between July and September, 1826. They here met with some natives laying out their nets for seals, in which they were unsuccessful. The party procured about two bushels of w hortle- berries that they had gathered. The bottom of this side of the sound is- very even ai six or seven miles from the land to the southward of Ca[)e Blossom, liit to the northward of it a shoal extends eight miles oft' the land, and is very dangerous, as the soundings give very short warning of its proximity. The distance from the sIku'c, could it be judged of uiuler ordinary circumstances, would on some occasions be a most treacherous guide, as the mirage in line weather plays about it, and gives the land a very dill'erent ai)pear- ance at one moment from that which it assumes at another. There are no good Uuulmarks tor it. The l>earings from its extremity, in two and a half fathoms of water, ai'e (Jape Blossom, south (JGo 40' east, true ; * Captain Ki'llotf's party found (,Inly, l^UO'tho oa.sk of Hour, left by Bcoclwy twciity- thrcc yoars ln'forc, to hv opening is a bar, consisting of pebbles and mud, which has every indication of being on the increase; but when the water is smooth a boat may enter, and she will find excellent security within from all winds. It is remarkable that both Cook and Clerke, who passed within a very short distance of this point, mistook the projection for ice that had been driven against the land, and omitted to mark it in their chaits. Captain IJeechey, in passing along the coast between this jwint and Kotzebue Sound, in July and August, found a current setting along tlu' coast in a northerly direction so strong, at times, that it carried the ship to leeward notwithstanding she Ix'at the whole day with every sail set. It varied in velocity from one and a half to three and a half miles per )H)ur, and was strongest inshore. It was very constant, and the water was much freslxn- than the ordinary sea water. Captain Becchey ujakfes tin: folhnving observations on it: "It is necessary here to give some fiirthei- particulars of this current, in onler that it may not be sup- ])osed thai \\\v whole body of water l>etween the tAVO (continents was setting into the Polar Sea at so considerable a rate. By sinking the patent log first five fathoms, and then three fathoms, afid allowing it to remain in the first instance six honrs, and in the latter twelve hours, it was clearly ascertained that there was no current ar either of those dci>ths; but at the distance of nine feet from the surface the motion of . !l'-■^ ..V^M ll' ', ! 1/ 1; r I 150 ALASKA DUiECTOKY. the water was nearly equal to that at the top. Hence we must con(!lude that the current was superlicial, and confined to a depth of between nine and twelve feet. " By the freshness of the water alonj^side there is every reason to believe that the current was occasioned by the many rivers which, at this time of the year, empty themselves into the sea at different parts of the coast, beginning with Schischmareff Inlet. The s])'^''iftc gravity of the sea off that place was 1 .02502, from which it gradually decreased, and at our station, off Point Ho])e, was 1.0173, the temperature at tiach being 08°. On the other hand the strength of the stream had gradually increased from half a mile an hour to three miles, which Avas its greatest rapidity. So far there is nothing extraordinary in the fact ; but why this body of water should continually press to the northward, in preference to taking any other direction, or gradually expending itself in the sea, is a question of considerable interest." (Part i, pp. 205-6.) From the entrance to the lakes prev' »usly mentioned the coast runs nearly north, trve, for seven and eight miles, to Capes Dyer and Lewis, re8pe(;tively. Cape Lisbitrne, of Captain Cook, is five and a half miles north of Cape Lewis. It is a mountain which, at the point, is eight hundred and forty-nine feet above the sea, and at so short a distance from it on one side that it was fearful to look down upon the bea<;h below. The basis of the mountain was flint of the purest kind, and limestone, abounding in fossil shells, enchinites, and marine animals. The mountain was ascended by a valley, which collected* the tributary streams of the mountain and poured them in a cascade from the beach. There was very little soil in the valley ; the stones were covered with a thick, wet, swampy moss, which was traversed with difficulty. Vegeta- tion, however, was as luxurious as in Kotzebue Sound, more than one hundred miles to the southward, or, what is of more consequence, more than that distance further fiom the great barrier of ice. Several rein- deer were feeding on this luxuriant pastiue; the cliffs were covered with birds, and the swamps generated myriads of mosquitoes, which were more persevering, if possible, than those at Chamisso Island. It was at this point that the Blossom's barge, which had been dis- patched to examine the coast to the northward, met on her return with such tempestuous weather, that she doubled this windy cape with great difficulty. "At 2 p. m., September 6, we got within the inUuence of the variable winds occasioned by the steep and high land of the cape. The bubble and agitation of the sea exceeded any idea of the kind we had formed, and broke over the boat in every direction ; we had no means of extricating her. The gusts of wind that came from every qiuirter, lasting but a moment, left us no prosi>ect of getting dear. We were at this time about two miles from the land. The wind in-ehore of us blew with astonishing violence, the eddies from the hills making -TTH-ir "f-p.N^ii^ii^^iijii ALASKA DIRECTORY. 151 whirlwinds, which carried up the spray equal iu height to the mountain." (Part ii, p. 320.) At Cape Lisburne the coast turns to the eastward at nearly light angles, and the coast being lower, some lakes are formed within the beach, which were open to the sea when the Blossom passed them iu August, but wliich entrances were entirely obliterated by the waves in the following month. At about live miles from the cape is one of these lakes, larger than the others. Continuing eastward along the coast, at thirty-two miles from Cai)e Lisburne, we reach Cape Sabine, which is low, and projects but £.]'\7"htly from the general line of coast, which here begins to trend to tlie ncutheastward. Cape Beaufort is situated in the depth of a great bay formed between Cape Lisburne and Icy Cape, and is the last point w here the hills come close down by the sea, by reason of the coast-line curving to the north- ward, while the range of hills continues its former direction. From the rugged mountains of limestone and flint at Cape Lisburne there is a uniform descent to the rounded hills of sandstone at Cape Beaufort. The range, however, is broken by extensive valleys, intersected by lakes and rivers. Some of these lakes border upon the sea, and in the sum- mer months are accessible to baidars, or even large boats ; but as soon as the cuiTent from the beds of thawing snow inland ceases, the sea throws up a bar across the mouths of them, and they cannot be entered. The beavered with a thick peat, which retains the water, making it very swampy and almost impassable. Upon the beach is ALASKA DIRECTORY. 153 three 'ater ^ere )rob- aea, and "m's re- ice, |»e to iter, h ia abundance of coal and drift-wood. The former ia interaiiersed with the shingle and aand ; and tlie latter, in some ])arts, is very abundant, and is forced hifth upon the beach, probably by the pressure of the ice when driven against the co^st. Wainwrifjht Inlet is forty miles eastward of Icy Caj^e, and appears to be a spacious oiMMiinj; or lake, the estuary of a considerable river. Its south entrance point was named Point Marsh ; its northern. Cape Collie ; between them is the mouth, having a shoal across connected with the land on the northern side, but with a channel for boats in the opposite direction. Tlu^ country around is low, covered with a brown moss, and intersected with water-courses. To the northward of the entran(;e of the lake the coast becomes higher, and presents an extensive range of mud cliffs, termiiuiting in a cape, which, however, is some little distance inland. The natives, taking advantage of this elevated ground, had constructed winter residences on it ; they were very numerous, and extended some distance along the coast. Here, too, they form their stores of pem- mican, &c. During the progress of the expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, in 1849, this inlet was examined by Captain Kellett, for the purpose of finding a wintering station for the Plover. The report returned was : " That the channel was very narrow and winding; that nine feet was the most water that could with certainty be carried in, (ten found aft>r,) and that even to insure that depth the channel would require close buv)ying; that a fair wind or a calm, so that a vessel might either sail or be towed in, was necessary, the channel being too narrow and intricate to warp through. Once in, there was a sufficiency of water, and a convenient spot for the Plover to winter, alongside a bank, w^ell sheltered. The natives told them that a considerable river runs into it — at least one that they can in their baidars navigate for many days ; and that it ran to the south- east ; that on its banks, and in the neighborhood of the inlet, the rein- deer collected in great numbers in their progress northerly and on their return to the south."* To the northward of Cape Collie the coast preserves the same north- east direction, and at sixteen miles from it is Point B(»lcher. The outer coast, midway between, is low, but more dry than in the vicinity of Wainwright Inlet, with a beach of sand and gravel mixed, upon which there was also an abundance of coal and drift-wood. Several native yourts were seen here, and the coast was more populous than anywhere to the southward. Point Franklin, which ia eighteen miles east-northeast, true, from * On approiieliinj; Wainwright inlet, July 25, 1849, Captain Kellett says that tlie vast nmnbcr of waliu.ses that .siinoun»le many rocks. I took particular notice that it was all pure, transparent ice,* excejjt the upper surface, which was a little porous. It appeared to be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to have been all formed at sea; for, setting aside the improbability, or rather impossibility, of such large masses floating out of rivers, in which there is hardly water for a boat, none of the produc- tions of the land were found incorporated or fixed in it, which must have unavoidably been the case had it been formed in rivers, either great or small. The pieces of ice which formed the outer edge of the field were from forty to fifty yards in extent to four or five; and I judged that the larger pieces reached thirty feet or more under the surface of the water. It also appeared to me very improbable that this ice could have been the production of the preceding winter alone; I should sui)pose it rather to have been the production of a great many winters. Nor was it less improbable, in my judgment, that the little that remained of the summer could destroy the tenth part of what now subsisted of this mass, for the sun had already exerted upon it the full influence of his rays. Indeed, I am of opiniim that the sun contributes very little towards reducing these great masses; for, although that luminary is a considerable while Jibove * Clear and transparent ico has recently been shown by Dr. Faraday and others to be one of the pui'est substances in nature, and therefore eminently adapted for supplies of water. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 157 era to be pplieB «)f the horizon, it sehlom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and often is not seen for several days in succession. It is the wind, or rather the waves raised by the wind, that brings (h)wn the bulk of these enor- mous uuisses, by grinding one piece against another, and by urulermining and washing away thos<» parts that lie exposed to the surge of the sea. This was evident from our observing that the upper surface of many pieces had been partly washed away, while the base or under part remained linn for several fathoms around that which appeared above water, exactly like a shoal around an elevated rock. We measui-ed the depth of water upon one, and found it to be fifteen feet, so that the ships might have sailed over it. If I had not measured this depth 1 would not have believed that there was sutiicient weight of ice above the surface to have sunk the other so much below it. Thus it may happen that more ice is destroyed ii^ one stormy season than is formed in several winters, and au endless accumulation is prevented. But that there is always a remaining store every one who has been upon the spot will conclude, and none but closet-studying philosophers will dispute."* This was about latitude 01)° 20'. The following day he sailed for and discovered the Asiatic coast at Cape North, which may thus be taken as the western limit of this barrier. In the ensuing year, 1779, after the unfortunate death of the commo- dore. Captain Clerke, the second in command, took the two ships up to the northward again ; but in this season it was a month earlier. It will be needless to follow them in their progress; but, so far as their experi- ence went, it appeared that the sea to the northward of Behring's Strait is clearer of ice in August than in July. The following is a summary of the conclusions arrived at by the two attempts: " It nuiy be observed that in the year 1778 we did not meet with the ice till we advanced to the latitude of 70°, and on August 17th, and then we found it in compact bodies, extending as far as the eye could reach, and of which a i)art or the whole was movable, since, by its drifting down upon us, we narrowly escaped being hemmed in between it and the land. After experiencing botli how fruitless and dangerous it would be to attempt to penelrata further north, between the ice and the land, we stood over to the Asiatic side, between the latitude of 09° and 70°, frequently encountering, in this track, large and extensive fields of ice ; and though by leason of the fogs, and thickness of the weather, we were not able absolutely and entirely to trace a connected line of it across, yet we were sure to meet with it before we reached the latitude of 70°, whenever we attempted to stand to the northward. On the 20th of Au- gust, in latitude 09^°, and longitude IS-k'^ east, we were obstructed by it in such (piantities as made it impossible for us to pass either to the north or west, and obliged us to rim along the edge of it to the south- southwest till we saw land, which we afterwards found to be the coast of Asia. With the season thus far advanced, the weather setting in * Vol. ii, pp. 462, 463. 158 ALASKA DIRECTORY. (' 'I.. J, «;ll '4 t ;,- i lis. ; 'J:l with RTiow and slpot. niid othor signs of npproacljinj? winter, wo aban- doned our onU'ipri.so for that time. "In tliis Hi'cond attempt we conld do little more than contirm tlie ob- servations we luul made in the first, for we were never able to a|)proa "> the continent of Asia hij^her than the latitude of 07°, nor that of Amer- ica on any i)arts, excepting a few leagues between the latitude of 08° and 08° LM)', that were not seen last year. We were now obstructed by ice 3° lower, and our endeavH)rs to i)ush to the northward were princi- pally contined to the mid-space between the two coasts. Wo penetrated near 3° further on the American side than on the Asiatic, meeting with the ice both years sooner, and in greater quantities, on the latter coast. As we advanced tv (he north, we still found tlui ice more ciimpsu't and solid; yet as, in our ditterent traverses from side to side, we passed over spjices which had before been covered with it, we conjectured that most of what we saw was movable. Its height, on a medium, we took to be from eight to ten feet, and that of the highest from sixteen to eighteen. We again tried the currents there, and found them unequal, but never to exceed a mile an liour. By comparing the reckoning with the obser- vations, we also found the current to set in ditferent ways, yet more from the southwest than any other quarter; but whatever their direc- tion might be, their elfect was so trilling that no conclusions respecting the existence of any i)assage to the northward could be drawn from them. We found the month of July to be infinitely colder than that of August. The thermometer in July was once at 28°, and very commonly at 3(P; whereas the last year, in August, it was rare to have it as low as the freezing point. In both seasons we had some high winds, all of which came from the southwest. We were subject to fogs whenever the wind was moderate, from whatever quarter; but they attended southerly winds more constantly than contrary ones."* These extracts will give a sulHcient idea of the character of the ice at the respective periods. They have been visited more recently by the expeditions under Captains Kellett and Moore, in her Majesty's ships Herald and Plover, in search of the parties under Sir John Franklin. Without entering into any irrelevant detail, we will insert the account of the progress along the ice as given in the newspapers at the end of January, 1850. Captain Kellett's letter has the following : " July 2G, 1841). — ^At 4 a. m. the ice could be seen in heavy masses, extending from the shore near the Sea-horse Islands, southeast- from Point Barrow. At Gh. we were obliged to heave to, in conseipu'iice of a dense fog; this cleared off at 11/t. 30w. The Plover was close to, but nei- ther the boats nor the yacht were in sight. " We both made sail, steering true north, and were at 1 p. m. in lati- tude 71° 5', where we made the heavily packed ice, extending nearly as far as the eye could reach from northwest by west to northeast. At this time we had t; )undiiigs in forty fathoms, nuul, the deepest water we have CaiJtain Gierke, in Cook's Tliird Voyage, vol. iii, pp. 27G, 277. ALASKA DIRECTORY. 159 .liich wind lerly ill lati- ally as At this ,'e have had since loavinjj tlio island of St. Lawrence. We continued ninninjf alon^ the piwk (intil H j). m., when, u thick top eoininp; on, we ran two or thie«' miles sonth, and hove to, the\\ind blowiii}; from north-north- east, Jiiul directly otlthe ice. We bad rnn alonj? it thirty miles. " The pack was eom[>osed of dirty-('olor«'«l ice, not more than live or six feet hij;h, except some i>innaeles deeply seated in .the pack, which had no donbt been tlirown up by the tlo«'s (;omin}; in contact. Every few miles the ice ntreamed off from the pack, throuj;li which the IMover sailed. July 2{). — At 1//. 3()MJ. the fog cleared oil", the pack from north-north- west to north-northeast, distant about six miles. Made sail during the forei -on, running through streams of loose ice. At 10//. passed some large and heavy tloes. Couunander Moore, considering them sufticiently heavy and extensive to obtain a siute of magnetical observations, di'opi)ed the IMover through between them, and made fast with the jfe-ancluns under the lee of the largest in a most seanianlike manner. "I landed on the tloe, with Lieutenant TroUope. The latitude, time, and variation w<>re obtained on it, (latitude 71° 30' north, longitude 102° o' west;) but the other observations were vitiated by its motion in azinuith, anf' by i.i constant breaking away the level would not stand. We had twenty eight fatlioniis, mud, alongside it, and no current. " 1 found the ice driving slowly to the southward, with the north- northeast wind blowing fresh. Very few walruses and but a single diver seen. The general height of this tloe was live feet, and about a mile in extent. On it were found pebbles and mud, which led Commander Moore to Nn[)i)ose that it had been in contact with the land. " At 'i p. m. the I'lover slipped from the ice, and both ships, with a northeast wind, made sail westerly until G p. m., when we hauled up true north, having no ice in sight in that direction, and only from the masthead on the weather beam. A tine clear niglit, running along six and seven knots; temperature of the water 40°; dei)th twenty-one fath- oms, (increasing.) " At midnight the latitude was obtained by the inferior passage of the 8un. At 5 a. m. the temperature of the water had fallen to 30°, and almost at the same instant the ice was rejwrted from the masthead. Between this time and 7 a. m. (when we hove to within half a mile of the pack) we ran 10.5, so that 1 consider eleven miles to be about the distance that i)ack ice can be seen iu clear weather from a ship's mast- head. " The i)ack was of dirty-colored ice, showing an outline without a break in it live or six feet high, with columns and pinnacles much higher some distance in. Although the wind was off the pack, tlicrt; was not a particle of loose or drift ice from it; our soundings had gradually in- creased to thirty-tive fathoms, soft blue mud. The only living things seen were a pair of pinall divers, black, with a white ball in the back, and two remarkable birds, very much like the female of the tropical ^ im ALASKA DIRECTORY. In ■>Vi mi ri-of-war b5'd,a dingy black color with excessively long wiugs, ai7d the sai.*^ .light when soaring. We could not succeed in ahootiug an,\ of either species. We reuiained hovo-to oft' the pack for an hour. In the dredge wc jrot niuscles and a few bivalves connnoii to tlM.'Hc seas, "This was our most northern position, latitude 72^ 51' north, longi- tude 1(58'^ west. • The ice, as far as it could be seen from the masthead, trended away west-southwest, (by compass,) Comniander ]yti)oie and the ice-master reporting a water sky to the north of the i)ack, and a strong ice blink to the southwest. "It was iui possible to gain this repented open water, as the pack was impenetrable. The pack we had just traced for forty leagues made i». a Sieries of steps westerly and northerly; the westerly beiag about ten or twelve miles, and the northerly twenty ndies. Wc niado sail at 9 a. m., steering for tm coast a little to the westward of our track up; wiml northeast, gradually decreasing as we got southerly. "Five o'cKwk a. m. — Fell a deail calm, the aea ghii^sy smooth, and so transparent that a w liite plate was distinctly seen at a depth of eighty feet. As we approached the coast, we again met numbers of whales, wtdruses, seals, and flights of ducks and sea biids. "July 30, 8 a, m. — Packed in-shore in eight fathoms, close to the northward of the Blossom Shoals off Icy Cape" Subsequently the Herald pro?3eeded to the westward. Captain Kel- lett's journal continues : " August 1). — In the morning passed the carcass of a dead whale, and another in the afternoon. I sent a boat to this one, stuck a Hag in it, and buried a l)ottle containing a cmrent paper, a notice of my whereabouts, and of my intention to go westerly, for the information of the Plover, should she fall in with it. Many reports of land from the masthead; a land- bird seen. "Having this favorable wind for examining the pack by the westward, I cx)ntiiiued to steer as higii as the wind would permit on the starboard tack. The wind continued to lighten until the morniug of the lOth^ when it fell to a dead calm. "The sea was literally covered in streams with particles of a pink color, like wood ashes, or coarse sawdust from (;edar, a tenth of an inch long, and 0."* in diameter, and round. On placing it under t);e mievoscope no appearajice of circulation could be detected. Mr. Goodiidge, the surgeon of tliis ship, supposes it to have proceeded from tliej-aroassesof the whales he saw y^'sterday, the oil having beep Ibrced through the pores by the pressure of the water; giving the iinifoini si/.e andslnipe in which we found it. 1 endeavored to dry some in blottingpai>er, but it was absorbed by the ])ai>er, and nothing left but an oily stain. Tried the current, and found it running to the westward one thir sof eigld and ten together; *|uau- tities of snudi ]>ieces of driftwiwd, all pine, which a{>p<'a»ed to have hem washed from some beach. The temi)erature of the water at the siuface m a H ^ ~ \ r' "\:jrn'^^T^''"r'yr*^*t"'"r"~.'f~^ -^ <- -^V^T^^pTWy' ALASKA DIRECTORY. 161 the pink in twenty-nine fatlioros was 45°, and at the bottom 4rP. The dredge produced (in soft bhie mud) a good many umscleSj star-fish, (iV)uiid in all pa,rt8 of this sea,) a few bivalves, (got before,) and sonxe very small shrim]>s. ''A Ijftiit southerly wind sprang np, gradually increasing, and veering to the eastward. At l{)h. 30«!., after standiug to tlie southwest for fifteen miles, th« loom of the land in the neighborhood of Nortli Cape could be seen, I tacked t«t the northeast, with a wind fresh from east-southeast, not wishing to run the risk of being caught witli a southeaster between the land anns. Dur reckoning placed us in latitude 70" 20', Kingitude 171^^ 23', in (fighteeu fathoms, sand. *''SnoAL. — Shortly after noon our depth decreased to sixteen fathoms, the color of the water becoming lighter, with a breakiug sea all around. Our soundhigs de<;reased a ftithom each cast until l/{. 30)w. p. m., when we "woi-e in eleven fathoms, shingle, getting in wearing nine fathoms, then tAvelve; and when trimmed to go back, a& A\e went on, had several casts of eight, and one of seven fjithoms; then suddenly got into fourteen, which gradually increased. The sun can\e out, verifying our noon position. Until midnight it blew a strong gale. " August 13, a, m. — Fine; wore to stand back to the shoal. Shoaled our water thirteen fathoms, and at lOA. I imagined I sjiw breakers on the lee bow. Ship refused stays, wore, but had no less water at midnight; passed o\'er the tail of the bank in eight fathojiis, fl>'e miles northwest of oiir formei' position. Continued to statnd to the eastward until 1 could weather the south end of the shoal; tl^en ta<'ked, passing, in sixteen fiithoma, three miles south of our first position. When I l>ore uj) north to fix its western edge, a slight eastexiy ctirrent took me rather further in that direction than I hitemUid. I have, however, confined it within a radius of five miles. "The weather would not allow of onr anchoring so as to nndce a clost^r examimition of the shoal with our boats, and the sea was too hollow and heavy to attempt taking the shijt herself into less water. In approach ing the shoal, the bottom chaviges ixoi\i\. mud to fine sand, and when in the least wa**sr coarse gravel and stones. We found nothing less than 11 AD ii "> i'**^7'T^'^"^5T*. w5™5;^r??^ ■ 162 ALASKA DIRECTORY. m 1 ; seven fathoms; but I am of opiuion that a bank exists which would bring a ship up. , . , "August 14. — We experienced very strong, variable, and southeast breezes, with rain, until midnight of the 14th, when the wind changed to the westward, and brought with it fine weather. Continued to stand to northward and westward until noon on the 15th, being in latitude 71° 12', and longitude 170° 10'; bore up west one-half south, passing several pieces of drift-wood. Our soundings increased tis we left the bank (westerly) to twenty-five fathoms, mud. "August 1(5. — Wind very variable, nnd direction south-southwest to southeast. Large flocks of phalaropes ; divers and gulls numerous. At midtiight wind very fresh from south-southeast, steering west-southwest ; depth increasing to ten fathoms. At 3 a. m. on the 17th, the tempera- ture of the sea fell from 4(P to 3(P; the wind light and cold. Shortened sail, sui)posing that I was very near the ice ; frequent snow-showers. "At 5 a. m. wind shifted suddenly from the northwest in a sharp squall, with heavy snow. Shortly after 8/t., when one of these snow- storms cleared oft', the packed ice was seen from the mast-heatj from south-southwest to north-northwest, five miles distant. The w'eather was so bad that I bore up for the rende/A'ous. The weather, however, as suddenly cleared up. I hauled my wiiul for the northwestern extreme of the ice that had been seen. At \)h. 40w/. the ex(riting report of ' hmd ho !' was made from the mast-head. " Herald and Plover Islands. — In running a course along the ])ack towards our first discovery, a small groui>of islands was reported on our port beam, a considerable distance within the outer margin of the ice. Lanes of water could be seen reaching almost up to the group, but too narrow to enter unless the ship had been sufticiently fortified to force a hole for herself. " These small islands at intervals were very distinct, and were not -considered at the time very distant. Still mon' distant from this group (from the deck) a very extensive and high land was reported, which I had been watching for some time, and auxiousiy awaited a report from some one else. There was a fine clear atmosphere;, (such a one aw can only be seen in this climate,) except in the direction of this extended land, where the clouds rolled in nunu'rous immense masses, occasionally leaving the very lofty peaks uncapped, where could be distinctly seen columns and i)illars, very broken, which is characteristic of the higher lieadtands in this sea— East Ca|)e and ('ape Lisburne, for example. " With the exception of the northeast and southeast extremes, none of the lower laud (iould be seen, unless, indeed, what 1 took at first for a small group of islands, within the pack edge, was a point of this gn?at island. "This island, or point, was distant twenty-five miles from the ship's track, higher part« of the land s«'en not less, I consider, than sixty. When we hove-tcj off the first land seen, the northern extreme of the .^' h not jjroiip icli i IVom iH can iu1(mI iiiiiUy ijulier nono iKt lor urt^at ship's sixty. of the ■ '^■^?'T!S^'i^''S^t^'^W^^^^^"A^-^'^"'^^'^-^^ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 163 great laud showed out to the eastward for a moment, and so clear as to cause some who had doubts before to cry out, ' There, sir, is the land, quite plain,' " Fnnn the time land was reported until we hove-to under it, we r.an twenty-flve miles directly for it. At tirst we could not see that the i)ack joined it, but as we approaclw^d the island we found the pack to rest ou the island, and to extend from it as far as the eye coidd reach to the east- southeast. " The weather, which had been fine all day, now chanj^ed suddenly to dense clouds and snow-showers, blowing from the south, with so much sea that I did not anchor as I intended. I left the ship with two boats; the senior lieutenant, Mr. Maguire, Mr. Seemanji, naturalist, and Mr. CoUinson, mate, in one; Mr. Goodridge, surgeon, Mr. Pakenham, mid- shipman, and myself, in the other, almost despairing of being able to reach the island. " The ship kept off and on outside the thickest part of the loose ice, through which the boats were obliged to be very careful in picjking their way, on the southeast side, where I thought I might Jiave ascended. We reached the island, and found running on it a very heavy sea; the first lieutenant, however, landed, having backed his boat in until he could get foot-hold, (without swimming,)- and then jumped overboard. I fol- lowed his example ; the others were anxious to do the same, but the sea was so high that I could not permit them. " We hoisted the jack, and took jjossession of the island, with the usual ceremonies, in the name of her most gracious Majesty Queen Vic- toria. "The extent we had to walk over was not more than thirty feet. From this space and a short distance that we scrambled up, we col- lected eight species of plants; specimens of the rock were also brought away. " With the time we couhl spare and our materials, the island was per- fectly inaccessible t-o us. This was a great disappointment, as from its sunnnit, which is elevated above the sea fourteen hundred ftfct, much could have been seen, and all doubt set a.side, more particularly as I knew the nu)ment I got on bo.lrd I should be obliged to carry sail to get off the pack and out of the bight of it we were in; nor could 1 expect that at this period of the season the weather would improve. "The island on which 1 landed is four and a half miles in extent east and west, and about two and a half north and south, in the shape of a triangle, the western end being its aj)ex. It is almost inaccessible ou all sides, and a solid mass of granite. Inninnei'able black and wiiite divers (conunon to this sea) here found a safe place to deposit their eggs and bring up their young; not a walrus or seal was seen on its shore, or on the ice in its vicinity. We observed here none of the small laud-birds that were so numerous about us before making the land. ^1 i*Z ,'v- ^.■••N>7' ^- ■,- . , trri^i-^ -<* ;." *>-* _^i y<^\ jn+r; "^Zp^^^i!^' 164 ALASKA DIRECTORY. " It becomes a nervous thing to report a discovery of land in these regions, without actually landing on it, after the unfortunate mistake to the southward ; but, as far as a man can be certain, who has one hundred and thirty pair of eyes to assist him, and all agi'eeing, I am certain we have discovered an extensive land. I think, also, it is more than prol>- able that these peaks we saw are a continuation of the range of moun- tains seen by the natives oft' Cape Jakan, (coast of Asia,) mentioned by Baron Wrangel, in his Polar Voyages.* I returned to the ship, and reluctantly made all the sail we could carry trom this interesting neigh- borhood to the southeast. ' August 20. — Sighted Cape Lisburne in a thick fog ; hauled off to await clear weather; jiassed several carcasses of whales." There is one feature of this sea which might api)ear somewhat remaik- able, and that is its shallowness. There is anchorage almost all over it. The depth varies from twenty to thirty fathoms, seldom exceeding the latter ; the bottom composed of sand, mud, and stones. This, therefore, simplifies the navigation during the few weeks that it may be said to be open to navigation. It has been trav<'rsed in almost every portion ; and, with the exception of the shoal discovered by Captain Kellett, no per- manent danger appears to exist in the open space between the shores of the two continents. THE COAST OP ASIA, :^f'-^ The merit of discovery of this coast is due to bchring, as we have rei>eatedly remarked previously. It had been slightly and cursorily examined by few sub8e([uent to that gieat navigator's firet voyage until Captain Cook saw it, and tirst declared its true diameter. Captains Clerkeand Kingpjissed along it iu the following year. Captain Kotze- bue, in the liurick. Captains Billings, Saryts«;heft', and WrangeJ, also added slightly to our previous acquaintance. But all these autiiorities collectively gave a very vague and imperfect notion of the whole, and but little* serviceable for navigation could be gleaned from their works., All this, however, was obviated by the surveying expedition under Captain (afterwards Bear Admiral) Liitke, whose excellent and ample work leaves little to desire. This expedition, which left St. Petersburg iu August, 1826, consisted of two corvettes, the MoUer, under Capi'^in Stinikowitch, and the Seniavine, under Captain Liitke. The operatiof»3 of the latter are our present object. After making many excellent ob- servations in the North PaciflWW^' w"'»'?™S!r^5S'f!W«W«SpK!9PJW^^ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 165 >>ii sV>ur{? ob- , and uiul uing pache«l Khia- Strait. The account of this voyage has furiiislied us with most of the subsequent particulars.* The TcHUKTCHis, the inhabitants of Eastern Asia, may demand a short notice here. Of all the Asiatic races inhabiting Siberia, these are the only ones that have not submitted to the tribute of peltries demanded by the liussians. The Tchuktchis inhabit the northeastern jiart of Asia, extending from , Tchauu Bay to Behring Straits in one direction, and in the other from the Anadyr, and the upper coasts of the Aniui, to the Polar Sea. To the south are the Koriaks, and to the west the Tchuwanzes and Juka- hirs of the Aniui. They foimerly occupied a more extensive territory, before the Cossacks. The Tchuktchis, though still in a great measure a uoniad Ki-ee, have less of the characteristics which usually accompany such a mode of life than the wandering Tunguses ; they .are more cov- etous and more 8a\ing thjin belongs to the character of the genuine nomad races. They lay up stores for the future, and in general do not remove their dwelliugs without an object, but onlj- when it is necessary to seek fresh pasture for their reindeer. They are disgraced by the most shameless liceutioiisnews.t Captain Liitke has given a detailed account of these people in his woik- He states that under this name are designated two distinct races, distiiiot in mode of life, in language, and in appearance : the one nomad or wandering, which he terms the Reindeer Tcihuktchis; the other dwell- ing in flxed hal)it>iMons on the sea-side, called the Sedentary Thuckt- cliis. The flrst are tlu? same people as the Kariaks or Koriaks, to the southward, only with some slight dilferences. The first call themselves Tchiu>ukthous, the second Namollos. They have been found to be more friendly tluin earlier writers have given them credit for, and were ser- viceabk to Captain Moore wlien he anclu)re»l here in 1848~'49. A good notion may be formed of their habits ami appearance from the works of Cook, Billings, and Liitke. Cape North of Captain Cook, or Ir-Kaipie, aar Frod- iTic mtke, Ciii»tiiin dn Viinh, &.v., triciNluicd (into Frciicli) from tlio original KiiHsiuu, by foils. J. hoy6. 3 vols,, Pnv'w, 1835; nnd I'lirtio Naiiti»iue, St. PoterHburg, 1836. t Sec WruMgcl'H Expediliona iu Northern Sibeiiii, truuHltittMl by Mrs. Snbiue, p. 357. ,/ S»^5?^*ffl!!PCT 3? 166 ALASKA DIRECTORY. western extreme, terminating in a bluflf point, being' one of these bills. As he stood off again, the westernmost of the two hills came open off the bluff point in the direction of northwest. It had the appearance of beinjj an island; but it might be joined to the other by low land, though it was not seen. If so, there is a twofold point, with a bay between them. This point, which is steep and rocky, was named Cape •North. Cape Forth, or Ir-Kaipie, is in latitude 68° 55' 16''. The longitude, dependent on that o^' C. Jakan, is 170° 57' east; variation 21° 40' east* This was ascertained by Admiral von Wrangel, in his fourth Siberian expedition, April 22, 1823. Here terminated tlie expedition, which re- turned to the westward, towards St. Pet^rsbiu-g.* The coast to the southeast of this is represented from the Russian charts ; the names and details there given will be suflflcient for the guid- ance of those who may chance to visit this inho8i)itable country. The most graphic descriptions are those of Captain Cook, with which we have commenced. His subsequent remarks will till up all deficiency. He made the land again to the southeast of that previously described, a very low point or spit bearing south-southwest two or three miles dis- tant, to the east of which there appeared to be a narrow channel, lead- ing into some water that was seen over the point. Probably the lake before mentioned communicates here with the sea. — (Vol. ii, pp. 406-7.) According to the chart, it would appear to be the various branches of the mouths of the river Ekehtagh, the outer points of which are named Points Emua-en and Tenkourguin, that are here referred to. Still further eastward some parts ai)peared higher than others; but in general it was very low, with high land up the country, (p. 407.) In this part the rivers Kental, Amguina, and Vankarenm, debouch. Burney or Koliutchin Island (south point) is in latitude 67° 27', longi- tude 175° 36' west. Its first name was giv en by Cook. It is about four or five miles in circuit, of a middling height, with a steep rocky coast, situated about three leagues from the main. The inland country, here- abouts, is full of hills, some of which are of considerable height. Cape Serdze Kamen, in latitude 07° 12', longitude 188° 20' east, is the extent to which IJehring reached, August 15, 1728. Here he thought that it was time to think of his retuin, " as it was not advisable to win- ter in these parts, since the well-known want of wood in all the north- erly regions towards the frozen sea, the savages of the country not yet reduwMi to the obedience of the Itussian goverinnent, and the steep rocks everywhere found along the shore, between which there wjis not anchorage nor har))or, rendered it too dangerou8."t liy this voyage, how- ever, he established the fact of the separation of the Americaii and Asiatic continents. Captain Cook says : " The coast seemed to form several ro(5ky points, • Wrangel, tranH. by Mrs. Sabiuo, p. 355. 1 MUllcr, Voyuges et D6couverte8 des RuHses, p. 4. jiunWJi!S«w;Y'««»<'!-«,wiJ*?V*^^ 170 ALA8KA DIRECTORY. ■ if can be pot. It ia worthy of remark that, althoupli the oi)posite or American coast abounds with it, both tfrowiug and drift, not a single piece is brought liere by the sea. The tides are very insignificant; the greatest difference observed was fifteen incites; and were usually very irregular. As near as could be ascertained, the establish /nent of the port was 4^. 20m. It is said that it never rises more than four feet in the autumn, when strong gales occur. The currents are strong, but api)ar- ently as irregular as the tides. Winds generally light; those between south and east bring the fog, and those from the north or northwest dissipate it. The observations made upon the bed of gravel make its west point latitude Ooo 37' 30" north, and longitude 170° 53' 30" west; the latter dift'ering half a degree from Kotzebue's position. Variation, 24P 4' east; dip, 76° 42'. Metchigmensk Bay. — From Cape Krleougoun the coast turns rap- idly in the northwest p.art, and, curving in an open bay, extends for twenty miles to the west to a moderately elevated but very steep cape, on which is the large village of Lugren. Up to this the coast is covered with moss, and rises insensibly to uniform hills. The coa>>t up|)eared clear, without any danger. A bed of giiivel, separating Metchigmensk Bay from the sea, extends from Cape Lugren for twenty miles to the west, curving to the south. The entrance to the bay is very difficult, from its narrowness and the lowness of the points forming it. Before making them out, the people on them will be seen, as if walking on the water. Besides this, the entrance is so placed that its opening cannot be made out until it is brought to bear northwest by compass, and consequently when near the western side. It must thus be sought from the mast-head, like the opening to a coral reef, which, in foggy weather, is impracticable. The village of Igouan (called Agutkino on Billings's plan, which was found correctly delineated) would be a good guide if it were permanent, but it is only there in summer. The village of Metchigm, on the west side, at two miles from the point of the gravel bed, is a sure mark. The winter yourts show them- selves by a thick verdure on and arouiul them. The best nmrk to find the entrance is a cape on the north of the bay, which, on the continental side, projects to the south. It is tolerably high, even, and ends in a low point to the southwest, appearing, at a distance, like two or three islands. The northernmost and longest of these ai)parent islands, which is distinguished by a cliff, lies west-northwest by compass from the entrance. Bringing it on this bearing, and steering for it, you go right for the entrance. The Bay of Metchigmensk penetrates the land for a great distance, but it was not explored. The remarks as to supplies at St. Lawrence Bay equally a])ply to this. The entrance of the bay was assumed to be in latitude 65° 30' 30" north, and longitude 172° west. The bed of gravel which forms the west side of the entrance of ) "• J ALASKA DIRECTORY. 171 the lem- tind ental a low three vhich n the right for a ies at was west, ee of Metehlgmenak Bay extoiula Ave or six miles to the northwesi; about half way it is cut by a rivulet in the southwest angle of tlie bay, through which the TiOmktehis say thparently termina- ting in an inner bay, but of no importance. Thence the coast turns to southeast toCapeNygtchygan. whi(!h, from north and northeast, at fifteen miles distant, appears to W: an island, on account of the lowness of the land bet\Neen it and lleliaghyn Bay. It is steep; to the northwest of it a bed of gravel exteiuls three or four miles, which unites at its other cud to the coast, forming a lake or bay. Beyond Cai)e Nygtchygan is the opening of the extensive Strait of Sdniavine. Strait of S^^niavine. — The existence of this remarkable strait was not suspected until the voyage of Captain Llitke, who ap]>lied the name of his vessel to it. The entrance was noticed by Behring as a gulf. Cook took it to be a shallow bay.* Captain Sarytschetf also saw it tnrough the fog. Seniavine Strait is formed by two large islands, Arakamtchetchen and Ittygran. It runs first towards the southwest, then south, and to the east, nearly thirty miles, and from six miles to half a mile in breadth. Its entrance is between Capes Neegtchan and Kougouan,bearing south one- half east and north one-half west, five milesai)art. p]ach of them is artly steep, partly sloping, but mountainous throughout. Its opening is in front of the south point of Arakamtch- etchen Island, and it extends six miles to the west and west- southwest. Its breadth is one to one and a half mile. Its north shore consists of a gravel bed, behind which, at a short distance, high mountains rise, * Cook's Third Voyage, vol ii, p. 472. \ TTn«»»?w»Ti,iifuj»He»vf.W>»(«lPWJl^<^Jii;Wt.,|F!,lf|«i^||i!lFf|i 172 ALASKA DIRECTORY. I* % 9 ainoiii; whidi Taglookou is roimirkiiblo for itH perfectly conical Hiiiainit. The iijjper i>art of the bay is HurrouiuhHl by a very low audHaiidy Hhore. Tliere is jifood anchorage throughout abovt; the second cape; but to be perfectly sheltered you must double the third cape, and lie in seventeen to nineteen fathoms, sticky mud. Fresh water abounds everywhere, but no wood to be obtained. From the first or southeast capo of AbolechetV Hay the coast runs five miles to southwest one quarter south, and ft)rnisa bay open to the north- northeast. The surrounding mountains will not permit a ray of the sun to penetrate into it: it is, therefore, cold, somber, and frozen. From this icy bay the coast runs three miles to the east, and api)roaches the west extremity of Ittygran Island. A bay on the latter corresponds to a gravel bed running to the northeast, and is nuide renuirkable by the high pyramidal mountain, Elpynghyn ; the two together form a shel- tered harbor, with nine to twenty fathoms. From the mountain Elpynghyn the coast trends evenly to east and easfy-southeast for six nules; then with steep, reddish clit!'s, two miles further to Cape Merteus, the south termination of Seniavine Strait. ('APE Mertens is high, steep, and is distinguished by a mountain with three summits. Between it and the Eli)yngliyn Mountain there is no shelter. AuAKAMTCHETCHEN ISLAND, the largest of the islands forming the Strait of S^niaviue, is sixteen miles long from southwest to northeast, and eight and a lialf nnles in its greatest breadth. From the south- west point to nearly one-half its length it is traversed by a chain of hills, moderately high, with flattened summits ; the highest of which. Mount Athos, has two separate granitic rocks crowning its summit a short dis- tance apart. This was one of the most important points in Captain liUtke's examination ; from its top they h.ad a superb view, extending all over the strait, from Cape Nouneagino in the north, to St. Lawrence Island in the south. Cape Kyghynin, the east point of the island, and the easternmost point of the land forming the Strait of Sdniavine, is in latitude 04° 4G' north, and longitude 172° 7' west, and twenty-eight miles due east of the bottom of Penkegnei Bay, its western extremity. Cai)e Kougouan, the north point of the island, forms, with Cape Keegtchan, the north entrance of the strait, to which the natives give the name of Tchiarloun. Port Eatmanoff, at two miles southwest from Cape Kougouan, is the port. It is small but good, and is preferable to all others on account of its proximity to the sea. It is easy to make out by Cape Kougouan and another cape equally steep but lower, at three and a half miles west- southwest from it ; Port Katmanolf is midway between them. The port is formed by a gravel bed, extending one thousand yards west-southwest from the coast it joins. A portion of the space behind it, one auu a half cable's length in diameter, has twenty-four to thirty-six I'eet water, muddy bottorii. Vessels can moor to the gravel bed, wher^ neither wind nor ALASKA DIRECTOKY. 173 the It of laud kst- port rest half lady iior bwpII can incommode tlicm. At two and a half cabU^n' longtli from the south jMiint of the bed of {gravel is an isohited Hand-bank, with ei^iit feet water over it; tliis point must therefon^ be kept not more than one liuridred and Hfty or two hundred yanls otf iu rounding it. Water nuiy be got from a rivulet at the south point. Cape Paghelian, the southwest extremity of the island, is eight miles from this ])ort, the (!oast between being nearly straight. There is good anchorage in this sliglit bay fornu'd by it, and tolerable Mhelter. The whole of the coast is low and strong. Cape Paghelian is the extremity of a bed of sandy gravel, extending five hundred yards south, 74° west from tht5 southwest extremity of the islatul itself. It is scarcely above the surface of the water. From its commencement the rocky shores run one and a half mile to the east, rising quickly to form the Meinghyn- gai Mountain, conspicuous from its rounded toj). Then begins a gravel bed, which, trending in a curve to southeast and southwest, forms the excellent road of Glasenapj). The extremity of this gi'avel bed, called Yerghin, is one and three-^^^ 174 ALASKA DIRECTORY. I' ifi m (loos not exceed, except in some parts, twenty-four fathoinH. On the Aniericjin coast the depth is Jiot {?reat ; but it is still more Hingular that thin depth is separated from the shallower open sea by a bank with still less wat^T over it ; so that the soiindin(;s first decrease on approa<'hing the coast, anads, and southeast moisture. The variation of the com|»ass sit the rircr Maritch was 2ii^ .V east. Vessels comin/jf here to trade with the Tchuktchis geiujrally visit the Bay of 8t. Lawrence, but this doubtless will be, or has been, abandoned fpr the Strait of S«'^niaviiie. It is sixty miles furtJier south, and more sheltered from ic<^ and north winds. Its suj»erior ports, too, are a jjfreat advantage. For a short sray, and to procure wafe* . (ilasenapp IJay wUI 1h^ found excellent. If a longer stay is to be made, Abolechett' Bay will answc/. Should it Imi necessary to entirely discharge a vessel, and heave her wn, It^itmanoff Hay offers every facility. The Strait of Seniaviue also offers more trade, In'cause the Reindeer Tchuktehis asstMuble here in greater nundu'rs, from the superiority of the pasturage, even over those of the Hay of Anadyr. i'Ai»K TonAi'MN. — The coast from (JajKi Mertens runs to the south. The mountains rece, and are not seen again until we a|>proaeh the head of thetiulf of St. Croix, To the west of this steej) <'(»ast is an open cove, extending two mih's U\ the north ; fnun this cove the coast runs to the south, but the mountains forming it are lower. They, fi)r the most part, jut out in steep an«( high escarpments, with large gaps between, in which, in some instances, are gravel beds extending, (»n which the Tchuktchis have some temporary habitations. Caw, TcHor kotsko'i. — Further on the <'oast trends towanls the south- Wi'st and west, and gra«lnally towards the ncu'thwest (piartiu*. CaptHin IJitke (■(Utsidered the soutlienunost point of this extent of coast as('a)>e T('houknUtij,;;ni,s|j.'Ml in (.'omiiijj: east or west; but viewed from the iwuth, il is all wvulb\UHkd with the eoawt. Tlie cape lies in latitude (J4<^ 10' north, and loiiftitmle IT.'P .W wcMt, Cook assigned its position as 04" l.'J' and IT3^> 24', but he, mw it from a great distance, and near its parallel ; this discrepaiHy of U»?ji^itud«' m therefore not remarkable. According to Hehrinji s journal lis h\t\iwle is 04° 20'. Beyond this commences the (lulf of Aradyr. The (liiLF OF Anadyr.— The southwest linii^ of this gulf may Im> placed at Cape St. Thaddeus, lying two hi.;, '".red miles south (I'i^wesfc from Cai^e Tehoukotskoi. With this breadth in its open iiiijj, the;Jiull is four humlred and twenty miles in circuit, without reckoning tJu' Hiuallm' sinuosities and the CJulf of 8t. Croix, which is one hun»lrefl aad eighty miles in circuit. Up to the time of the visit of Captain Liltke, Jiehriisg Imd been the only navigator who had sailed in it. IJehring went around it, unchtnvd on the west coast in latitude O.'io 47', discovered the (Julf of St. Ci(aj4, took in water at the small o[)en Hay of Transliguration, aftx r wluch he foHowed the coast at a short distance, as far as the strait now beiinjii*: his name, liehring had not th(> means at command tor making obser\a> tions with the accuracy recpiire*! in modern times; but the direetitm of the coasts, traced simply from his route, had more resembhiuee to their real bearings than all the details that were to be found on the charts. From Cape Tchoukotskoi the <;oast extends to northwest. At twelve miles to north 70° west from this cape we reach Cai)e Stoleti*'*, (of the century,) which much j ^eaibles the forme', of a bhukish color, and having, in a similar nutnuor, is(»latee Stoletie, Cape Ouliakhpen pro- jects in a steep declivity, ami is high. The rocks of this cap« , and also of those turther te> the northwest, are not so black as those wliich extend towards Cap<' Tclioukotskoi ; and the isolated and pointed rocks on their crests are not seen here. On the east side of this cai»e is an open bay, into which the small river Vouten falls. Tout 1'rovii)KN(!E. — It is presumed that the open bay Just alluded to by Captain I^iltke is the same with that which has recently atlorded wint«'r shelter for her Majesty's ship I Mover, in l.SlH-'4!), which was dis- patched in sear(*h of the missing expedition of Hir.lohn Franklin. I'nua the bru'l n«>tic«> that has as yet a|>p<'ared, it is extensive, with safi' anch- orage, protecU'd from the sea by a long low spit. A supjily of water couhl be conveniently obtained from the anchorage lirst selected. Com- nmiider Moore's subseqiu>nt pro«!eedings he desrobnbility of Immu^ unable to regain my atlvantaKcous jHwition, (tVora which 1 could send out overland expeditions,) uniiv«'ni«!iut siM>t in which tx) place the ship for the winter. ^^ On the 23d a still fiwtiMsr redttetitMt of t i iy ratnre UM}k place : the upper part <»f the harlx>r wm r op— tod iveeeiit^ ov** and lar{r«> sn ass^s «f ice forming during tlic iiiglrt abotit th^ ship ; in conseoueiMv of wiinii, a^f^T a personal examination of an inner i»arl>or p<»Ms««ssinti many iui- vantages, 1 renmved thither on the 24th, aw^horing at .Jh p. ni. in seven fathowHs. "Eacma Harbor, t<> which I had now removed, e«w*?flunieated with the larger one by an opening a mile wide, forming >« '' ^ miles long and one nule and a ImH' in breadth, surrounded «»n -uhi by lofty mountains, except to tlie sonthwani, where it was sc^mj; : d from the sea by a tra<;t of low land ,\m\ an extensive lagoon, and having deep water at the entrance and middle, with good anchorage on ea<;h sichi clo»e to the shore. On the lowland to the south wa** a native s<^ttle- mentof sevenhuts, to which l)elonged a large herd of reintleer, from vvhich I hojx'd from time to time to obtain supplies of fresh meat. Considering H, however, safer for the ship, on account of the force and prevaU'ure of tkc northeast winds, as uell iis ^e xw»b»bi!ity of tlie iw; drift itig, and on the whole better to l>e at a little di»tancc from a people whofw? fri<*ndly disposition was not y¥it establlslKMl, J removed to the north side of the ha^lior on the 25th, and there st'cnred the sliip for the winter on the 28th of Octobw. "From the iJ^i the jjeople were yed in dismantling the ship, leaving nothing tmt l4»e lower rigging over the nnisthcaf stone for the e>^veni(>n(^ of working the forge, drying the oloth<>s. Ac, and housing ttti* ship in, all of which was completed by the 8th of Xo\ em'ljer. "During this time Ice was continually fonning annttul, and frequently broken up by sijofllls and iitrong northeast winds, so that the ship was not finally frozen in nuti] th* 18tli, when the nativen were Mrst enableard. but on making a few presents and allowing some truHlc to Im> c»rrie/l on with tluMP, rhey gained conft Annvf\ at iiast so far as to enter the ship reaeing jjireful on all ntiesM ehartu-tx>r attached to the people of theiM» coasts by some authors. li K. it iVVTT'f'l "•■'yHMfV'T^'^--' •T'W*^^ ALASKA DIRECTORY. 177 e of nd oil tUy lUc ma A K the »y the lontly iibleti nt ap- Iwnft- io so, tluiir 10 the " During: the months of Noveml>er and T>ooi«n»l>er tho ship was daily visited, not only by tho8« in the vicinity, hut also by others fi-oin a dis- tance alouff the cosiRt and inhmd, by intercourse with whonj I was eiui bled to satisfy myself that they were not oidy peaoeftd, but disposed t« he actively friendly towarda myself and the otliecr^ and nieii under my command." The position of the harbor, ascertained ditvinj,' this stay, Is latitude 640 2.V 55" north, lon},^itude 17.'P 7' W west. The oltitiers of the Plover made several excursions into the n«nghhor- hoo; and on the west side la a hill equally rounded, the Hanks of which gra^iually slope on either side. Between this cape anpes fo the right; but ou the west side is a serrated and ;>o!i!!. tiiUr* - lu front of it is a large detjtehed rock. ('a|>e >{inirlioun is }«< high and as blutf as the preceding, and in gen- ei'a! the iiiteu'ventng coast is equally m). This cape is very remarkable by \tH tiut top, but mor<" ho inmi its cntin'ly «iitVcicnt appearance from that which follows it. Cajx' Attcheuu, in latitude 04^ 4G', longitude 175^^ 28'. This iatt«r cjtpe, uu)dcrat€ly elevated, sr«'ep to seaward, is separ- ated from Ottj*e JSiuirhoun by a bay surroun«led by a low coast, from which a long chain of nnmntains ext**!)ds to the northwest, a country OMr«E«Ki with moss. That which forois the southeast side of Cape Att- chmin, at the distance of twrnty miles oi' »uore, seems to be tletached. TRt RATION Bav. — A coawt With a similar appearance exttuids in a windii! : luansier four miles to the northwest t*) a K.mall open bay, wiiieh Liitke rwjogni. <••! as iiehriug's Bay of Trunsfiguration, or Preo- brayenia. It is snnuunded by a low shore^ and towards its extremity it receives the hver Leiiianaya, (frozen^ which the Tduiktchis call Kouivaain. Fnmi this Irny ihe coast ts high, nearly periKmdiculiir, and like a wall; it tixttmds uiue uaies to Cape Eiuueliau. Cape Behriug is e(iti;illy high 12 AD A» ■^7!v^T'^y^■?l^^^^^^^?j^^y^;• ^v^'^ 'S ^ '-! W *' l^;!^^ ^ 178 ALASKA DIRECTOKY. ki |i ;i H i ( ftinl perp(»iidicular ; but between tliem there is a mwnU .space, whei'e tlio even, uniform <:oa8t curves into the form of H.n open buy. C,U»K Beiieia'O in Hitiuited in latitude Hrp 0' W north, lonji;itude IT'P 57' went. It is particularly noticeable, because bore «uddenly terniiuat*) the steep rock» which, with smtdl excejitions, form the enfciro extetit of coast as far as Cape Tchoukotsko'f, and further n«)rth the coast becomes still lower. The mountains in this space are similar U) tliose at Cape TchtxikotrikoV; of a nsean height, level at Ihcsummit, 8lo{>in^, and even Wat, whirii pAs1,i<'nlarly cnartieterizes the ntountains about (.'ape Ninir- lioun,. The hijfh and peaked ntountiiins, like those in the iSiiy of St. Lawrence, will no lonjfer be seen, even in the distanv'.e. Fjom Cape IJeluIng the coast turns al>ruptly to the northeast, then to north, slop- injL? jursjdually, and ternjinating [lerpenubcularly in some part&t, as far tis Cape Tcldrikolf, whi«;'h i» steep, and forn\s mi open bay. In rajusy places on the moswy land traces of rivulets or small streams are ,een, and on their bore Tchonkotskoi up to Cape Attcheun show from twenty aeveu to thiityone fathoms at the distance of six to ten miles from th(^ c(»a«t. the bottom mad or gravel. Oil (.'ape Behring then-e are eighteen to twenty-two fathoms at eight miles (Ustant; off Cape Tchirikoff ^here are not more than ten or eleven fathoms at the «ttuu> distivnie; aneiceived froni the 8»'iiiavine. It must therefore be considered that it h clear throtjghont, beeause j^ehring, who kept elose Ut the land all the way iKVond tlio cape now ttearing his naaie, does not either Jiiake LMcntiou of any shoal or reef whatever. •I £ 'fiVW|i^vivV'*i""'^'''wi^ip\i;iiii#^w»M'w(i«^ w^yjpi',''! \'-'«77!v.T5ast. To the west of the river above deserilx'd the eoawt is h)w for foiir miles, and then ee just mentioned is another e