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Thiait C«do( lOx tmls eunwn riliiMd at the raduction ratio chackad balow / t aat film* au taux da rMuetion Indiqirf ciKlaaaoua. 14x 18x 22x 26x 30x J 12x 16x 20x 24x 28x 32x Th« copy ♦««m«d h«r« has bMn rapreducvd thantet to the 9«n«ro»itv of: NdtioiMl Library ot C«in«»dd powibi* contmarina ih« condition and bgibilliv et iha original copy •"<« •« •'••P"'i *"«*' <"• filmm« eontract apocificationa. Ong.nal eopia. m prmiad papar cowaf. ara fHmad bagmning w.lh iha front covar .nd •"'^'nfl «" Iha laal paga ..ilh a pr.ni.d or ..lu.iraiad impraa- „on. or Iha back covar ^han -PP'OP';*'* ^" othar or.g.nal copia. ara filmad baginn.ng on tho ?.r., paglv-ith a pnntad or "•"•^'-^JV^P'"' ..on and anding on iha laat paga with a pnntad or iliuatratad impraaaion. Tha laat racordad frama on aach '"'e'<»«icha •hall contain tha .ymbol -^ """'""« ,£2..,' TINUEO'l. or tha aymbol V Imaaning feNO I. whtchovar appliaa. Maoa Dialaa. chant, ate. m«y ba filmad at Sarant riuction r.i.o.. Tho.a too l.rga '« »»• antiraly ineludad in ona axpo.ura ara filmod Saginnlng in tha uppar laft hand corn.rjaft to right and top to bottom, a. """"V ["'"•• •*, raquirad. Tha following diagram, illuairata tha mathod: L'axamplaira film* fut rapreduit graca « >a ginAretiM d«: Bibliothaqua national* du Canada Lat imagaa auivaniaa ont tta raproduita* avac la plus grand som. compto tonu ^* la condition at da la nattai* da laiamplaira tilma. at mn confermit* avac laa eenditiona du contrat da fllmaga. Laa aaamplairas originaua dont la cowvartura •t^ papiar ast Imprimaa tont filmOa •n commancant par la pramiar plat at •n tarminant ton par la darniAra paga qui comporta una ampramia dimpraaaion ou d'illuatration. toit par la tacond plat, talon I* cat. Tout lat autrat amamplairat originaua tont film*a an commandant par la pramiAra paga qui comporta una ampramta d'impraation ou d'illuttration at an tarmmant par la darni«r* paga qui comport* una t*ila *mpr*int*. Un d*a tymboloa tuiwantt tppdraitra tur la ^mtrix^f imag* d* chaqua microfieha. Mion la eaa: la tymbola — ^ tignifla "A SUIVRi . la symbol* V signifi* "FIN". Las carta*, planchas. tablaauM. ate. pauvant atra film** k daa taua d* reduction diff*rantt. Lorsqua I* documani *tt trop grand pour atra raproduit an un taul clich*. il att film* A partir da l*ngla tup*riaur gaucha. da gaucha k oroita. •t da haut •n bat. an pranant la nombra d'imagat nOcattaira. Lat diagrammat tuiwant. Illuatrant la mOthod*. AMCIOCOfV nSOlUTION THT CHA«T lANSI ond ISO rtST CMAUT No ?1 ^ /APPLIED IIVHGE I ST. '653 East Uom streei S^S "ochei(#r. New York 1460 USA ^ ni6) 288 - 5989 - Fo. « I t «iPti. m. C. »hra Across Two Continent! AND Through the Emerald Ish BY REV. MORTIMER L SHEA DEARLY rrpr^nJ "'"'■ '°''^°' ^^° °'^'« OF DtARLY TREASURED DAYS IN THE EMERALD ISLE WITH ILLUSTRATIONS lllE GAZErrE PRINTINO CO.. I.I.M,TED MUNTKhAi- 1907 i '^ 9r(ii!r& mh pubUttftb toUif tift ktii6 prrmtMtan of tl^r MoBt Irv 8r. |laul Snulfrai. Arrl^bialrati of flmttrraL j* j» €anttntB. 'Hii. i: ,,isili. I)„lu,,t.,ry ''''^;^' Ttu' lntri«liKtion. . . .'. '[ l>t|>artiirf Irnni \i-\v Yi>rk ' Thf A/..>ri'»i '" (Jiln-altar " Algivira.s iind St-villf *' TIh; .MttliUTTuneun '** Comiia and .Siinlinia. ... "* Bay of .\a,,|t.» " Naples " S , , Liiko lirtli". I^ikf l,t!t;aiui l-iK«rtU' Intt'riakrii Stmssldif); llfnli'llvrK Mayi'fuv, Th.' Khini- . C< ill >Kllt' Hnis.s«'lM Pans Calais, Dost-r l^mi\im Mi.lyhta.l ti. Dublin.. . Dulilin , Killiinii-y, the l.,aki-!i... Cork, Hlumt V CastU- . Chark'villi, Riisst'lvilK- Linu-rick, . . , Galway, Salthill -iifdi-n Letterfrai-k. . Lct-nane, . . . Wi-stport . . . . Cluremorris... Liindondfrry., Donegal Portrush Giant's Causeway... Ballymena Antrim Lough Xeigh Belfast Armagh Dro^hcda Ireland in Review... Liverpool Queenstown New Vork to Montreal. JO ').< '»7 ■)H 101 105 106 leA iiK "9 •<4 '.U I <0 H9 •>4 '/I '74 '74 178 i«l >!<.? 1 85 ■85 •«S 1S6 187 187 1 o iqi I'll iga 'OS 108 if)8 30I 304 205 J' t The r>TBiniil«, anil Uuidrn in CiMtumr. I fl THE EPISTLE DEDICATORY. I Dear Rbadir — I dedicate this descriptive work of my travels to thee with fear and many misKivings of heart, for I know the fate which has ♦Mjfallen many an adventurer. I know, too, that the float i.? the subject of the breeze and the toy of the wave; and i have not lived without know- jnjj thai the adventurous author is liable to awaken in the mind of his critic the most unkindly cennure. But conscious, as I am. of all that may Iwfall these gentle leaves. I continue my task with unabating perseverance throughout the day and long into the night, in the earnest hope of being able to lead my reader through the lands flowing into the Pyramids. Sheltering him from the dry. burning wind of the South neath the spreading magnolia. I shall then conduct him through the birthplace of art, to the rich plains and ravishing scenes, which, while teeming with cultivation, seem to offer up, as from their verdant shrines, their fruit to the Great Creator. Place then, gentle reader, the kiss of charity on this modest work, and permit yourself to be guided over the «unn> watrn n( ilu- Miilitirnuu tiu to |H>iMtH uf i(Uin-«t in !in.| lK.rHth'8 Cath..drH'. F wa.s boun.i for Sy.lnev It wa« sunset before the hawsers were loosed and the ship left the tK,rt Ere w.. had ifone ..ery far on our course, the captain, a genial fellow, .said as he passed. "We shall have wmd before ni.ht .f I mistake no.." " I am of your opinion," said a man who stood next to me. Sure enough, with the shades of night n ti I 8 ACROSS TWO CONTINBNTS came a cbanRe. The sea became rouKh and the wind gave notice of ;,n HpprnachinR stonn. Ni^'ht had now placed the pall over the dead dav and the wind moaned. Soon came a blast which careened the ship, passed over, and in a min- ute she rii'hted as before; then another and another, fiercer and fiercer still. Meanwhile the passengers were in their berths, some like myself very sick and willing to give up the ghost: others v.aited the result of the terrible wind and sea, while down below stood the steward singing a most mournful dirge, entitled "O Blackie in the deep blue sea!" It was N'erily a lonesome hour frau-ht with danger, for wave after wave burst upon the ship which bowed ♦o her gun- wale, and rose again to encounter another wave more furious than the first. It continued thus for three days, during which I was powerless to ask " The Star of the Sea "' to save us from destruction. " It is nearly over, my boy." said the steward. " It is clearing up a little to windward." " Oh, thanks to the great Master of the sea" we are saved ! After four days we reached Cape Can.so.and being sick almost unto death I was taken ashore and put to bed. The next day-, however. I was up before the " king of the barn yard " had intoned his matutinal song, felt like a happy manner, and was able to continue the journey. It was not the sea sickness then that worried me most, but "The where, when and how " were the mysteries to be solved.. Finally patience was rewarded in the march of time and the cherished day-dream of my years was fast becoming a delightful reality. Through the kindness of His Grace the Archbishop of Montreal and the warm-hearted generosity of the beloved priests and people of St. Anthony's the means wherewith I must need undertake the vovage to '' the n AND THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE 9 enchanted regions of the unknown " were forthcoming and at my ready disposal. With good prospects of soon crossing the Mediter- ranean and the Atlantic I developed a lively interest in ships, steamers, ocean currents, fogs, sandbanks ship- wrecks, whales and porpoises. I read up the common nautical terms and became familiar with aft, (aVjaft) forward, starboard, port, larboard, lec-side, weather- side, fore-and-aft, midships, etc. etc. Then I studied up the time at sea, which is marked by " bells," and again the distant objects visible at sea. so that I began to possess a slight knowledge of the little things that make the sea voyage all the more interesting. With everything then that a traveller requires to set out upon a happy journey - the good will and best wishes of superiors, friends and relations— I stepped aboard the "Atka," a Pullman car attached to the train leaving Montreal, on the evening of the seventeenth of June, 1907. The bustle of the day was now over. New avenues opened up and afforded a view of the passing scenery under the rising moon, but no sooner does the monotonous rumbling of the wheels greet my ears, than " I feel an exposition of sleep." In other words, I had reached the quiescent state and began to peruse the daily papers. Our first long stop was at St. Johns. At Rouses Point two American custom house officers entered the train, and went through each car to examine the baggage in the usual way. They met in the car in which I sat and one said to the other: " Discover anything dutiable, John? " " Don't think so! There's one man"— pointing to him— "who is coming from the Old Country, and another gentleman going to the Old Country, by way of Naples." n to ACROSS TWO CO.VTINE.VTS 'Rut pardon me.- sai.l the man to whom he pointed W are m,stakon, I am not eomin, from an old a>u v' ^ttTh r;T ■ ,P^'^-" ••-*'' the ready-witted offi! Am t that place old enough yet - and he walked awav was no babj m the eyes of the American public New \ ork was reached early next mornin^and the more NEW YORK TO THE DOORWAY OF AZORES Ere the whisties of Xew York ',->,> „ j . . . om-n.al «„„„ ^ad die, „p„„ ,h, ,„, „, ,,_ '^^ *P' -e unshipped, and .owlv J.l° '/' ^ h?"S" *amed „aj«,ieaUy d„„„ .he .s.L™,- . e „a. " „, whch was dancing ,o fte beams of .he brillian, Jl" " f .. were merry, and a lovely, eloudless sky f, Led .h" canopy under which we were ,„ begin our journey '' Soon the farewells of friends become inaudible- ,h. wav , „, handterehiefs cease: .he lofty bu Id n^'L* r:4tr:o°vi:!*'- ""^-"-^ --"-- - - ::: I' is now 2 p.m., lunch is just over; we are passing Sand.^ Hook and abou. .o gain ,he open sea. The ,"f shmes b„Kh.ly on ,he deep blue rirror-Iike sea Z sheds a fnendly light on the fading shores q„ , t disappears and there is nothi„„ ''. ""'""■ ^^ '""d sea guns that are st^hoTe'S JTeX: 1^7' continues fine, the bree.e reLhing:':n?''our'g:i,f„- AND TMROUC.H TIIF. E.MfiRALI) ISI.K H skipiHT is cuttiti},' through the classic waters of the mighty deep. And as evening' falls upon the tWin^ day, the pas- seriRers who are conifortal.ly seated in the steamer chairs look back upon the journey over the mirror-like sea to observe the marvellous natural tone j.ictures produced by the setting sun. The sky extending over the .sea is of a H«ht blue, soft clouds in delicate tints han^j motionless around and the deep blue sea diders in shades in the east and west. Then the sun appears like a ijolden orange, sinks Kiadually into the west and lights up the rippling sea for miles around. N'ight has fallen and the peace of the evening lies over the waters. The steamer's lights arc lit and the decks have the ajjpearance of crowded city streets. While some are sitting and enjoying the rising moon, others are walking around the decks discussing the comforts of the steamer and kindness of the crew. The hour grows late, and one by one the passengers exchange courtesies and say " good night." Next morning there is nothing in sight, but the sun has risen and gives promise of a bright, clear day, nothing in sight for days in fact, so to gain some pleasure from the passing hours we looked upon •:'■ e sun-rise and sun-set, on the daily return of day and night, on the struggle bet- ween light and darkness, on the whole solar drama in all its details that is a^ t'd every day in heaven and in earth. And as the deep blue waters reflected the beauties of the celestial ocean we mused on the white-capped wave and the truly marvellous roll of the restless sea. AZORES In the afternoon of Wednesday, June 26th, at 5 p.m., we got the first glimpse of the Azores, and these semi- tropical islands, rising out of a summer sea, are grate- la ACROSS TWil CMNTINKNTS ful v.s.ons in the mi.lst of a trunsatlantic trip There are "."e islands in the ^roup and are known as St. MarVs S . Michael s.Terceira. St. George. Grae.osa. Faval. Pico Flores an.l Carvo. They belong to Portugal and the lan- guage sp„k.-n is Portuguese. St. Mi. hael's. the largest, rich- est an.l most important of the cluster was discovered in 14,0 by Goncalo Velio Cabral. acting under orders of the Infant Don Hennque of Portugal, This islan.l .s ,; m.Ies long 8 to g m.ies wid.. and has .-. population of ,.,,,,50 a^ distance fn-m Lisbon is 8,,o miles, from .\\.w York . „c miles; and is well known to the world's tourists, 'its chief port is Ponta Dcl^iada. (ipposite whii h our shij) cast anchor, and land ings were m.tdi' hv means of small boats, but not without the amus- ing incidents that usually occur when the fair sex en- deavor to lea]) from a 'ship's laiidcr to a small boat which is being tipped and roughly tossed bv the angry sea. Misjudging the time to leap, and misialculating the distance, each feat, as w el! as •I I Nmive C-wluiiii's, St. .Miclmcrs. .\zorps. AND THROir,;,, THE EMKRALD ISLF. ,3 every a«empt that failed was rewarded with a drenching thiL". : """r "' " '''' *°"''^^- '^ -- the cor ect hmg o do. and there was nothing to it -it was easy Upon ,and.ng. the visitor observes the beautiful p^bi; bu.ldm,s. attractive stores, splendi.l churches, grand botan gardens and many handsome private residences The That fT" " '""" '° '"'^ "^^'^ ^^' ^'^-'^ d-- - typS' That of the n,en consists of a suit of homespun co'ton att^reT ?r'^"' ''' *° "'^'^'^''^^ balance o^tTe att.re that of the women is most peculiar. A - Capote worn by them is a cloak of dark blue cloth and a hoodTf t L i^^rthTL :'r"'r'^ ->-• ^-^--'^ and helH . K ° '"^' '" " '^'^'^P'^S ^"--- stiffened and held out by whale-bone or wire. Their whole oatfi. look, like the dross of a relig.ous order "''^^ We were not lon,^ ashore before a youth, a native wanted"' ''"-.'7" "' ^^'^^ ^^^^"^^^^'^ ^^ ^^ed i w • lal t^ ' ;■. '""^ "•' ■*'''^^' ^-h- - he.- He th ci"v ' r" "; '"^"' -^--ts. we w,shed to see ">e cty. Come on. Come on !- said he. and when we asked where he was about to lead us. his shoulders went up and of eLT ; °";'""'^= '' '''' ^^^^-^^^ ^^^ mattering st we fo' '. ^°"'.^-'"*^— other word. Needlessto say we found a guide who conducted us to the pubic fa" ed b :'1'r'' '^^"^^^"' ^^^-^ measure and con! tamed beds of the rarest palms, flowers and trees of everv bC;" T '': '^''' -^^^°"- -- there an u"Z' u '' '''' '^"'"^ °^ '^' gardens there was a tr ef thaTh f '"' '^^" ^'^ ^'^ *°P °^ ^^^ stately old trees that have borne the blasts of years, there came the song of the feathered choir and their'music mingHn^w ^ the b, transformed the garden into one of naturJ^s most pictuiesque and enchanting bowers. I »4 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS \«sits were then made to the old monastery of St Barbara, which is situated in the centre of the citv end surrounded by a very hi^h but spotlessly clean wall ' The chap,! was open to visitors, and throuRh an iron grating wh.ch separated the monastery from the chapel, nuns could be seen in prayer an- 1 at their devotion. The chapel wuh ,ts .lecorations does not. nor cannot deny its year., for both time an'°" '"'' '^"^^ hand, across even height. s.m.I.arly constructed and spotless in color Donkeys do the hauling and are usually saddled with two huge baskets filled with onions, fru.ts of difTerent kin" c" ep th"";-' '"' °''" ^"^'^^^""- "^''-d ^»'« •^-•'ey b> w th the cho.ce goods he has to .lispose of. What next I A P.cture from real life. An old man and woman perched UF^n a venerable and stubborn donkey, whose solrous bra> >s m un.son w,th the harsh voice of the riders of th x' ^'""''^r" ''" '^'''^"">' '''>' *" ^*'»^'"'- "^ the people of h Azores that they are industrious, g.ven to hard work orderly and clean in their habus and around the.r homes V dlous. They are lovers of home, and are religious without th sHghtest fanaticsm. They are a God-fearing and a prosperous people. The soil of the islancl is fertile, and the principal products are corn, varieties of fruit, such as bananas, figs pears, apncots. pine apples being most common. F.sh s p ent. ul--qua,l abounds. The difference m the tempera- ture IS shght.and the equable climate renders the Islands most healthy. Fevers are unknown there, and .snow t never seen, except in Pico, which ,s 7,.oo ft. high. ^cor rhl i!r'' ''"''■' '*' "'"^'^ ''■°'" " Po'-tuguese word Acor (hawk) g,ven to it by the d.scoverer. on account of the great number of birds of prey which he found there stean^* 't ^''"' ^J^""' '" "^"'^^'^ ""^ ^^ ^'^ ^g^'" ""der steam. At some distance from the ship we get a good v.ew of Santa Maria, the island at which Christopher Cofum i6 ACROSS TWO CONTININTS bus touched on his return from the discovery of Awrica on the 1 8th Feb., uojj. Field Klasses are n«)W brought to play uiMm the fading shores, urn! are particularly centered uiHjn a native windmill whi< h was revolving on the SMmmit of a very hi^h mountain, while others ajjain were fixed upon the low, flat-roofed, yellow, white and blue houses that nestled by the water's edge. The remaining luujrs of the afternf)On j)assevv\> of the soft, mrlluw m(K>n that has uttdi/'mnifil us fmh fvcniriK In tho face of Huch a rare Mummcr's ni^ht ut srn. it WM diftii ult, indi'fd, to Noparatr one's «flf from the scene, which may l)c (htHsiHcd anion>{ the most i harming that I've ever witnessed. The following davs were Hpent in kai^^s and amuse* ments, some of the ladies distinKViiiihing themnclves at I ticket, hasoball, .shuffleboard, and in the needle and biscuit races, which were the cause of much amusement and no end of laughter. The evenings were given up to cards and dancing, and thus the hours whiled away to the music of the ship's orchestra, GIBRALTAR Sunday, June 30th, at 7 a.m., we came in sight of land — a succession of small islands — and as we near them they grow into mountains of a great height. It is (tibraltar on the one side — on the other, the shores of Africa. Just here a school of dolphinos (fish) are engaged in a sort of hurdle race, jumping; the waves in full view of all on board. At length we have reached proml Gibraltar — the grand old Rock, the well-accepted synonym of strength and im- pregnability, the courtry's stronghold at the entrance of the sunlit Mediterranean— famed in song and story. As the ship steams slowly through the Straits, which separate the continents of Europe and Africa, and picks her way into the harbor, where she anchors in the very shadow of the historic "Pillar of Hercules," reality supplants anticipa- tion, and the traveller sees in substance what has been for days a familiar object of his mental vision; and a nearer view still shows a covering of vines and shrubbery and Il ACROI* TWO CONTININTd many natural lavi ami piuiiaKCi whirh lead to iu very ■ummit Landing %a* madr in a t»nel«r. and a walk thmuKh the town, which in on Spanixh a* the Rarriuoniit KngliMh, it rewarded by many unfamiliar hut intcnutinj; »(crc» Hail- ing on^ of the jwculinriv shaptd cabs that ply on the xtreet* we drove to the Alameda, tin- p-blio gardens ami jKipuIar pr«»menn«|p, theme we walkefl to the fortifiraticms, ami Ihr AlHntmln I iihrnllnr. finally to the old Moorish castle, which today .serves as a military prison. At every turn leading to the hill one meets British soldiers in smart uniform, and now and again hears the bugle call and the sound of drums. Standing upon the great heights of the rock we looked down upon the blue Mediterranean on the one side and the beautiful green hills of Grenada on the other- hills on which many American and English tourists find both pleasure and health, and which are widely known throughout, ihe country for their AMt TMHKIT.H TIIK HMKRALM ItLR •» •up«Th Mrntry At flu- Imw i.r tlu rotk ami Htoni; the water's ei||{c iit th. town, v ih tt* narrow *tri-.t!. i»nrtant as the point whenre Ciihraltar ami Tan^'iers. on the African. oast, i m last Ik- rea. he.| A fiw hours fre.m AIi{e«ira« l.rinKs the trH\tlU-r t-» S»mIU'. whi. Ii • enturiis ai-o was the »m1o' ".I city f the Moor To .lay it is the hotni-of the «uitar. thi- fan ami the Mtn^. and the renihwous of the most putur-s'juc {wasantry of Southern Spain Alweciras belongs to the province of KstranuKliira (the' rxlrrm.- Ian<|i, an-l among Its national sports is the bull (iosinK picture that of a lion crouching, under whose head rests in silent an«l lonely graves the heroes who fouK'lil anmrrv'f,| m water. Immr.hat.ly I |>u«h««| the hutfm. m came the steward. " What haa hapinned* What u the matter?" • Oh. nothing nothing to worry anyone : tt will he all right m a few minute* " The •t.ward i harge.l with the duty of cloaing of thf port-hole, each night had fallen a.leep ; the detk haml. washed down the dcTki.with the re«ult that the water found lU way into the roomi. Tht^e wa. no evident damage except that the dreu iuit ca»e containing mv clothe* waa ■oakcd in the nalt water. Delightful experience! wasn't it. eh? We were no* eleven day* at ,ea. and to relieve the monotony of the Umv In.t i.lca.unt vnyuge the captain ordered a programme of games an.l sfH.rts to be framed for the afternoon. At 3.^o o'clock the deck was in readihw . .r the »cr.e« of events, which came off in the following order : 1st. Potatoc race girls and men. Combination race, threading needles and eating girls and men. Bag race for girls and boys. Thrce-lcRKcd race -for girls only Huoy. hurdle and tube race for girls only. Combination race for men. Tug of war women and girls, men and boys. The succeeding hours and day passetl quietlv. and were very agreeably broken by the charming panc'>rama pro- duccd by the ever-changing cloud pictures, and the soft, merry rippling of the placid sea. ind, biicuits 4th. 5 th. 6th. 7th. 8th. hnn TNRtUnH THR KMRMAtD IILK • I Al 4pm. TuMi.I«y. July inAr^niea, %hv \»rthp\»tt uf NiiiK>l«>n »n«rt of the tcrntwy of that i.,u.>trv Mryond CofHica he* thr prrttv httk i«lanol«>n. ita vincyar.U. it» ohvc or- thar.U, anil lU extensive ftshrrici. t« a wonderful pu tur». In the l.atkKr.iun.1 there in the UmK (ham of hilU ol violet o.lor. to the west there u a beautiful oranxe rIow. which upreadinK over the canopy of the firmament chanKf. to a pronounced red Then come the deep shadet of night, •nd the houm whuh breathe of silence an.l of thankdRiving for the day i» at rest CoMica ia separated from Sanlinia by a narrow strait. The next .norninK we m^ht nnd arc nearinK Mount Circello, This is the historic mountain of Kreat height, upon the summit of which traditi.m has placed the palace of the Homeric sorceress Circe. SiH)n the «roup «,f Pon«a Islands appear the little town of I'onja bcmK built on the larKcst one; an: un-hor is cast a number of Italians in small boats ' Kircle the .I,n. Some of them have fruit an.l souvenirs ■'■■> c'l-pose (.f; ,thers again sing, and play livelv music on c^- 1 in<; .iin.s. while others perform feats that naturally amuse some, but surprise all. Thev holler for a coin and immediately it is thrown into the water. One or two nearest Naples and Ve.suviug Smoking. appear in a few seconds with the prize between his toes or again between his teeth. As unfeathered ducks thev cannot be beat. NAPLES Lying at the base of Vesuvius, at the end of a world- famed bay. Naples is a proud city, celebrated for its -reat the spot leap from the boat, make a straight dive and re- •4 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS beauty. It would be vain to attempt to reiterate the reputation of its palaces and museums, which contain one of the most wonderful collections of art treasures in the world ; ,t would he vain to describe its maRnificent churches w,th tlHT wealth of art, its theatres, the ancient frescoes its statuary, its paintings, its splendid collection of ,..„ of Pompen, and the historical monuments which add lustre to Its surroundings. Naples and Mmint Vesuvius. But the charms that are centered in her peerless bav cannot be exaggerated nor denied, for their manifold glones have been sung to the world, told in story and are still borne on the breeze that flaunts her flag. Ashore Naples loses much of its beauty and glamour though she retains much of interest to the traveller and has unlimited attractions for art students and lovers of antiquities. Among the places of interest of which she may well boast are the Ca,stle del Ovo. a landmark of the icth century; the Cathedral, built in 1272, contains many AND THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE 95 granite columns and marbles from the Roman temples of Neptune and Apollo, besides beautiful paintings and historic tombs. The chapels are of great richness, par- ticularly that of St. Januarius, where the miraculous blood is preserved. There are many beautiful churches, among which are the Votive Church San Francisco di Paolo, built in imitation of the Pant i, with a dome 175 feet hi^'h. Other places of interest are the Xational .Museum, Sorrento. the University, Royal Palace, Castle Nuovo. Triumphal Arch, Villa Nazionale, the Aquarium, St. Elmo's Castle the Library and Conservatory of Music. SORRENTO No tourist visits Naples without hearing of the charms of Sorrento. It is said, in fact, that it is one of the beauty spots of the world. With the idea then of obtaining some 1 $6 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS souvenir Of this marvellously l.oautiful pen.nsular town s.tuateci ,n the mi.lst of orange and lemon proves, and so conven.ently reached from Naples, we stepped aboar.l the Pnncess Irene and after short sail we were landed in the Dreamland of Italy." Wishing to vis-t the Blue C.rotto. of which we had heard so many nice things, we re-embarked and were shortlv m Capn. where by means of small boats we were able to enter the wonderful cave (Blue Grotto) and enjoy a sight that .s really marvellous. Here too. f„r the amusement Hlue Grotto, Capri. Of the visuor. a boy delights to dive, and it is a strange s.ght to see him come to the surface with his kinky hair full of .silver drops. Even the oars dropped in the heavilv chargtjd water appear silver-like. •• The boy sees nothing but silver, when the visitors are leaving " It being noon, and lunch hour, we drove to the Eden Molaro Hotel, situated on the .summit of Anna Capri and overlookmg the Bay of Naples. Capri is a quaint, old town and a delightful resort for one who is in search of rest and health. ■ AND THROUGH THK EMERALD ISLE 37 Rt'turning to Sorrento by sti-amcr v.v put up at the " Tramontano," a lif)tfl which is patronized by the best tourists. In the evening, for the entertainment and pleis- uro of the quests, the celebrated • Tarantella " dance was performed l)y a uroup of natives dressed in picturesque costumes. No sooner was th.- signal jjiven when away whirled the merry dancers to the peculiar music of violin and guitar, and the measured beat of castcnet and tambourine. Capri. It was a strange performance, but one that would surely cause the toil-worn peasant, the weary traveller or the lonely heart to throw off the burden of the dav and leap to the wild music so cheerfully rendered by the light-hearted natives. By the way. a dependance of the " Tramontano " is the house in which the famous poet Tasso was bom in the year 1544. •8 ACKOSH TWO CONTINKNTS From Sorrento the drive over the mountains and alon^ the coast is unequalled for its must pleasing variety an.l Rrandeur of scenery. On the way we dined at the • Can- puccini Hotel - in Amalfi. which was formerly a monastery the chapel of. which, with all ,ts ancient paraphernalia is open daily t<> visitors. Leaving Amalfi at 4 p.m and continuing our journey Anialti. along the picturesque coast of Salerno, we entered the town of La Cava at nightfall, and dashed down its narrow streets at a madcap pace. The old postilion cracked his long white whip incessantly, and the sound echoed back from the dusky walls like the report that follows the bombardment of a town. The coach was wide and the wheels nearly touched the houses that lined the streest; th-^ promenaders skipped to the right, dumped AM. Tllkorc.M THK KMKHALI. ISI.K ,p to tlu. I..ft; .i„«s l.arl.-nl a„.| .at. ran wiM; .vorvthinK H.at- own r '" T "';r""'""-""''-l-- that ...uon..! the to^^n that n,,ht. VVV ,.ut i.p .t tho • Motol .|o Unrlros " when- we spt-nt the- qi.i..t,.st n.i,'ht of our tr.,. \oxt morning w. journ.ynl to Po,,,,..,,, ,„.. .hs^n- t«.ml....l atv, ami .h.votnl „n,.h ,i„u. ,o ,h.. stu.h of the ruins. '■ A View fro,,, ,|,e HnRl.I, „f An.alfi POMPEII We are now in the midst of the rums of Pompei, and walkm,^ over the remnants of a onee proud citv. While vsUmK tlu. Bourbon Museum in Xaj-les, we saw and touched what a j,uard indicated to be " The Sentmel of Pompeii " it was a suit of armor enclosing the skeleton of a soldier who w-as on sentry before the bo.ly guard of the Romari centunon, at Pompeii m the 79th year of the Christian era ' 5 , .?o AmORH TWd roNTI.NKNTS It naturally fxatinl our rurioHily, an.l inquinnu fi-rth.T ■ntM ,t, wt. foun.l that hr l.a.l Ju-.-n plarc.l as stntind "" IMH ,K,st tho ,,r.l XovmlKT of tl..- sanu. voar wlu-n t u. .nt.re city „f H.rculancum an.l Vun^^K'u ha.l Uvn ot)lmT«'«I, Tl... sucMest of all sa.l .layn. Thi- sun ha.l riachi.l tho "uri.lian; tlu- intial.itants. joy.ms an.l tranquil, wm- otru- l".-.l w.th tiK. affa.rs c.f t'u- hour thorr was no sijjn in tlu- d<.u.lU.ss skv or on thr earth to indicate a chanK.-, but su.l.lt.nly fearful subterranean noises an.l rumhiinK's were lieanl :n the .lirection of Vesuvius. Immediately torrents of Mame an.l enornious masses of r..ck leaped hinh into the a.r, an.l the crater eommence.l to lul.h f.>rth from its hor- rid an.l extended mouth dense clou.is of ashc-s and a l.ruwn J'urnmu lava, whieh in a short time hurie.l the sister towns, Darkness supervene.l; the solid crust of the earth sIuH.k with violence, an.l the inhabitants flew in conster- nation. <"-ntl<' rea.ler. puture the scene. There was no m.>on to l.Kht the .larkne.ss of the iiour into which the people rushe.l in wil.l dismay. Some ran to the ri^ht. ..thers to the left they knew not where, for the smoke ha.l a.ided to the darkness that obscured the wavs. Voices of pan-nts are heard on every .si.le. Fathers calling for their children and wives, and crying women impl.,re.l the Great Oo.l to stay Hts visitation; but it continued, ai,.I for three davs an.l niKhts what seeme.l to be the final .lis.solution pre- va,le,l. When the darkness raised, a funereal pall is thrown over the scene an.l the stars keep watch over the graves of the .lead. The sun shines with his usual bri^'htness the people deplore their los.ses. and their .lescendants to this da>- supplicate in behalf of their departed dead. Thence we returned to Naples. NAPLES TO PORT SAID of ,h'' '"'*' "^'''"'«''»- -^"'y ^^h. ere the fe^tivife. in honor "f the .00th anniversary of the l>irth of Oaribald. were Z' h\" 'T '"'-' '•^""- ""' ^'«'"^'» »^"^ p'«y«"i «n" n .vened the day that Id the monnter procession, throuKh »^ my streets, that .l.scoursed the sweetest music in the u».hc gardens at night, had played their last tune, and the ' he hKhts of the cty. which had thrown such a brilliant ustre over the monuments, the city park. .„d pu^ >u. drngs. were being lowered, and what was a bla "e of light .s now enshrouded in darkness. Out in the Bay however, there is much ar.imation. ^' Mail wf'^' -^""^ ^'''"' ''"'^P""''- "^ '^^ P'-^ Asian ;t L r K /' T'"'"^ '^' ''^'""'"^^'^ °^ her cargo and the mads, before her departure for Port Said and the Red It was shortly after midnight when we embarked and qu.etly took her course along the coast of Sorrento then southwards through the Bocca Piccola. the straits btw^ Punta della Campanella. the farthest iK>int of the Soiren^ penmsula. and the Island of Capri. Owing to the darknes^ ^< ould but famtly observe the beautv of the Gulf and overcome with sleep we retired for the night About nine o'clock next morning we are in sight of the Lapan Islands, that marvellous volcanic group, from whose highest summit, - Stromboli." we can see smoke and flames issumg at intervals. Next we come in sight of Bagnara. a small but pretty sight of It before we get a glimpse of picturesque Messina a prominently situated town along the shore and up the 1 J» AmOM TWO C'.INTIWRNTi. i^lopinR hill. Then c^mc« « ,ucce.M,.o„ of vcrdur. cM capi^d .«tni» towrrinK away over all The «a.l throuKh the hutoric Strait, of Mewin. at m.d- d.y when the • kinK of day ' ., be.towi„K hi. rav. upon the. an,,,«,, «„, ,,^,^^„ .„,^ ^^^. ^^,^^^ ^^ J^^^ .upon .«ubhn,e opiK,rtun.tyof v.cw.n, the town,. villaKe. v'Z Moun?J!J;' '"T'' "' ^''''^' '" '"*' "«''' " »"^ P"'°»« range Mount XEtna domtnutmR th.m, 0„ the uther .ide of the Calabnan coa«t in Sugh standard of excellence. Tourists who travel by the Norddeutscher Lloyd Steamer to Egypt will certainlv enjoy a delightful outing at sea. ^ "'^ the fim'thlr "''! "'■';" "'^ "' "^*""« P°« Said. .„d the first thing v.s.ole m the distance is the Damietta light- fisamg fleet of .00 small boats; and lastly the stone jettie. remarkable for their great length, one of which extendi « meters into the sea, built to protec t the Suez Canal from the running mud of the Nile. And steaming slowly Z h AND THBOUCJH TMR BMEMUl Ul|t ^^ harbor Mwr.„ thr tw<, j.tt.e.. wr obt«.n u .p.end.d v.ew .tl u ;7 ". ''" ''•'"^ '"'-»..unu. and .; the coLhL^ PORT SAID. aII«u.|.U.n. What « nuxtur.- ,.f ,„hal.ua„t, vou «.. Nubians black as coal. Ab;ss,„ia„s. C„pts. Armcn- •ans. Crc-cks. Turks. Arabs. KnKHshm.n Kn-n . I ahans. Amencans and Irishmen. There- is hero mankind o every descnption. Oriental Hfe predonunates, and h re he We.n comes mto dose contact w.th the East and show m the most strikm« manner its superiority over the oLt On the one s.de you see the squalid native, whose .gnorance ., m d,r.ct proportion to hi. d.rt; on the other, the well J4 At ROM TWO C «»XTINieST«. upon thr slothful „«t.v.. „r th. ,..,| IU,,„^ ,,,„,;, our h«.,„e.. w.th the c.u«t.>m h.>u.. «„, u,U „. , Its. «n.| fin.ln« no,hm« of any ^rc^t interr,t «,>«ri from the Aruh v.llu«.. wc .lr.w up «t th. " Contincntlt wh ch ... ,f I nm..n,....r wdl, ,h,- nanu- ..f tho pr,nr.pal hotel on Ma,n Street, Aw.ut.M« h.,u h wc .at .>n tho ,pa ,ou, v.- randa whKh.wr..r.,...| a ,ran.| v.^w of th. hun.nU .ec. n of he town Thm. aro muMnan. aUo in IV,rt Sa..| At the Jirthc^t end of the v.n.„.,a .at the on hestra, hut the nn..: rh.l not ,ecn. to apfH-al to the «ueHt. F.nallv.one of the band came aIon«. sued up the ,,uartette and said 'Oh EnKhsh' AnuTuans- ■ „„ ,.,u.rned to hi, chair and the nex tune was - L'n-ler the Shade of the Sour Apple Tre" U.CICS, to H„v. when the hat went roun.l, there wal a ^ener- ous collection of small ,K,tatoe8. Wher, ver one visits in the world to-dav he w,!| hear n the'Tl M "'"^ ■''"" ''' "'"^' '"'' ^""'''^- -"« -'^ "'- -• in ine same old way TO CAIRO AND UPPER EGYPT. After seein, all that was to he seen .n and around Port Sa d w. se. ou, ..r Curo ..nd Up,K. KKvpt. The jnurnev ook aboue four hours, hut as we .... seated m aLson- ahly comforrahle car. . pass-d .,u.. kly, Leav.n, Fort Saul U..- ra.iwav runs :.,.....,. th. Sue. Canal .ll\ul great Men.aleh Lake t.. Kant.ra .,., I.na.ha. A low ch n o^d ,.,v..,,.U.eMen.a..hfr.„uh...stofthe™ land that the . onnnKs and «oi„. .,f ,•:,,,,;,„ ,„, ,,^^, arm.es h..tweenSvna an. i K,v,.t took place ,n ancient tnncr AMI niKiM l.ll f||> ^y»^^^ lUllt If W.M of Kanlara ul«.u, ,o ,,,,1,, ,,.. „,„,„ ^,„ .n.«.n.lv .«||..., T..I ,1 l>H.nr,. ...... fun. ,....„ f.,..„., »„ « Mr » ..,„.. to nmrk f »»• Mt. of ,h. Tuh,..„h.. ..f S. r„>.ur... « "^ I>'.|.h,m. ..f th.. f;r....k, Th.. r..,na,„. an- ..f „,.. ,.,„.. ...« of .,„H. Mr ,...tr... f ,, ,,..... „,., ,,^,^„'^^ ,,;,, Wn th. •• iro»M.,.f |.hara..l,. .„.r.. V.Mn..h pr.,.|,..,.,, :. .....' m' ^6 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS. water g.ve an oriental character to the picture which i, fiom P°r. ": "" ^' ^•^"'^' "^'^-h '« --« distance from Port Saul, the railway reaches the highly cultivated delta country, where cotton, corn and clover all thrive haxunantly. The journey through the desert from Is! ma.ha to Benha and from Bcnha to Cairo presents many pretty views, owing to the number of large and well A Crocodile Chaiw in the Nile. populated oases which have sprung up as a result of the Sweetwater Canal; although oriental life is still to be seen unqualified by the metropolitan atmosphere of Cairo, or the international atmosphere of Port Said. In Port Said, as well as on the Suez Canal, the French element subsists. On the other hand, between Alexandria and Cairo English influence predominates. AND THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLE jy IN CAIRO. To the traveller arriving at the central railway station and dnvmg straight to his hotel i„ thelsmaiha quarter. a first that fall under h,s notice are the large European houses the watered roads with the dust extinguishers sin. aT „ cTotheT rr ?" " ^''""'^^- ^^^ P-P"^ - Europea" c othes. the hotel omnibus- these and manv other tWngs all belong to Western civil.ation. But the Arab i„ hil ,0'; whne garment with a red - tar bush " on his head or the lar off IS the Cairo of his imagination. Cairo is the greatest town of Africa and one of the most It iviasr el - Kahira, and are very proud of being Cairenes. considering themselves superior to the inhabi- tants of the other towns of Egvpt. It has a population of about half a million, of which 25,000 are Euro- peans. The native population is pnncipally composed of Fellahs Copts, Turks and Jews, to which must be added Negroes. Bedouins and people from other countries. In Cairo, it is said, as nowhere else, are mingled Paganism, Mohammedan- ism, Christianity, civilization and barbarmsi, refinement and degener- acy. Stately graves of the Caliphs, A«b w^^.n. 3« ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS the fairly palaces of splendour-loving Khedives and the lux- urious huropean hotels stand in close proximitv to the miserable huts of the Mussulmen. Wherever one goes something new is to be seen. In the Ismailia quarter one finds the Esbekiya Square a c harming pleasure ground ; the Place de lOpera with the opera house and statue of Ibrahim Pasha; the (irand Continental Hotel. Shephards Hotel, the International Tribunal Post office, etc.. etc. But the places of interest to the travel- ler who has but a few days at his disposal are those leading off the Muski. Here one finds narrow streets, tortuous lanes, no two houses alike; and he hears the shrieking of cab-drivers, the piercing cry of vendors, the tinkle of the brass bowls, the braying of young and old donkevs Then comes the dixersity of shops, dye-pools, coffee rooms, open workshops where shoemakerji and workmen dispose of their goods, fruit stalls, booths, bazaars for selling evervthing water earners, unveiled and veiled women, and finailv a medley of Nubians. Turks. Sudanese. Copts. Persians Arabs, Bedouins and Fellaheen, all in native costumes and all moving in ceaseless and chaotic confusion. This scene IS unrivalled in the world's cities. To enjov it. as \ have done, you must visit Cairo and be accompanied bv drago- man ■' Arrafa Hassan," who has a record that would ma'ke pulp of all others. There are 400 mosques in Cairo, and the minarets bv which they are flanked give to the town quite a peculiar character. On the east side of the town, at the foot of the Mokattam Mountain, are the tombs of the Caliphs, which are numbered among the most beautiful examples of Arabian art. The Citadel which dominates the town wa« constructed A.D. 1166 by order of Salaheddin with stones taken from the small pyramid of Gizeh. .^9 AM) TIIROllWI TIIK KMEHALU ISLK ENVIRONS OF CAIRO. Our next visit was to the suburbs of Cairo, which arc wonderfully picturesque an.l replete with interest Ac- compan.ed by our native clraKon.an we .irove throu^rh tluit port,on of New Cairo leading to the Kasr-en-Xil UruJ crossed it and entered a beautiful palm-shaded avenue whKh follows the Nile for manv miles and runs alon« in a .hrec. hne to the ed^e of the Libyan .lesert. was', de- l.«htful rule and a charming roa.l. on either side of whi, h Sphinx iiikI r.vruini,l, „f r.iieU. as far as the eve could reach, there are level fields and little nat.ve v.lla.^es. Here and there we met hun.lreds of camels himbenng alon,; dozens of donkeys bearing vegetables to market, and nat.ve peasants disposing of huge melons and other wares. '' ;^1' out. gentlemen ! The Sphinx and the Pvra- mids . \ ou are now m presence of the Gi^eh group and the great pyramids. As the ground about here is rough and the walking somewhat l.tiguing I mounted a came! 40 ACROSS TWO CONTINBNT8. and from his baby hump I contemplated the vision of my dreams. Before mc towering «, a great height is one of the seven wonders of the world-the Pvramids. Fashioned by men. none know how. and the admired of the world they have stood, as intended, the test of centuries But those mighty mansions which we call tombs-rich and would-be everlasting palaces of the dead-built by kings and with endless gold that they might outstand the world are beginning to show .signs of decay, all of which goes to show that human affairs are by nature prone to change- and monuments, as well as individuals, are bom to decay' There is. however, a solemnity in the sunshine resting upon those monuments, which have .seen the rise and fall of na- tions, the birth and death of the world's beautiful and brave, the ages of wisdom, and the vicissitudes which humanity is heir to. ' With reluctance then do we leave this spot, about which there is a sacred stillness, to ride down by the great Sphinx to the Temple and out into the immense desert of Sahara. But even here there are new and interesting scenes to contemplate: the ocean of yellow sand, the bright heaven, the shepherd and the sheep, the wild antelope, the beasts of prey. These happen successivelv. and while thev mvite much attention, they afford unlimited gratification. Returning we saw the Obelisk of the Temple of the Sun God Ra. and the Tree of Mary, a gigantic leafy sycamore, in the !^ rvi/r • '° '^" g^»des-say . the Virgin Mary rested with the Child Jesus on the occasion of the flight into Egypt A fina visit was made to the Museum, which contains a wealth of Egyptian antiquities, a great number of monu- ments and statues, and many bronze and copper objects. It occupies a prominent position near the Kasr-en-Nil Barracks, and though there is nothing remarkable about the AND THROUOH THE EMERALD ISLE 41 builchriK. It houses a colic l.on of treasures which are dear to the inhabitants and of great interest to strangers At the entrance to the Museum there is a marble sarcophagus which contains the remains of J. A. Mariette. a famou. Frenchman, who began the collection of the country's anti- quities in ,854. The Arab Museum is on Bab-cl-Khalk Square, and contains a rich collection of objects of the Arab epoch. Near the Ministry of Public Instruction is the Khedivial Library, which contains over 50.000 volumes. Divided in languages there are ,9.000 in Arabic. iS.ooo in European and 3.000 in Oriental languages. When visiting Cairo. " the Saratoga of Evgpt." it is the correct thing to visit the Temples and Royal Tombs of Luxor; the avenue of two thousand sphinxes, of Kar- nak. and the huge gateway seventv-five feet high the obelisks, the great hall, with three hundred and thirty-four columns thirty-six feet in circumference and sixty-six feet high, all decked with carvings and colors; the rock-hewn tombs, the Nile cataracts, are only a few of the things to be seen in this wonderful country. Taking our departure from Cairo and its surroundings was really leaving a city in which a sojourn was pleasantly passed; a country of picturesque charm and historic interest; a people who are a study. ALEXANDRIA. We are now in Alexandria-a city founded by Alex- ander the Great in 333 B.C. Leaving the railway station we walked up the main street which leads into the centre of the city, not, however, without feeling a glow of admira- tion at the scenes around us. Beautiful buildings with a finish of graceful architecture lined the street; proud palaces stood in the centre of picturesque squares; smart people were to be seen everywhere- even the man from Cook's was 4» ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS. loading a party of tourists through the city ; and as the whole •cene grew animated around me I felt as though Alex- andria might be a city of luxuries and delights, and that the people might have voluptuous tastes. Be that as it may. the city has a wealth of historical associations which are interesting. One quarter of th« town, the European, wears a familiar aspect and is well worth seeing. There is. too. a promenade which is in every sense delightful! leading away beyond the city to Ramleh. a lovelv bath- mg resort in which there is the most modem and artisti- cally finished cottages. Again there is the Turkish and Arabian quarters, and though the streets, houses and bazaars are smaller and not so active as the Arab quarter in Cairo, they are nevertheless verv interesting and thoroughly characteinstie. The fortifications are above the haibor. along which there is a great num- ber of flat-roofed houses, some few mosques with cupolas and minarets, and all shaded by the old Egyptian palm trees. The great export houses and the various foreign chambers of coni- merce have their oftiLCS here, so that Alexandria is a centre for the EijyiJtian trade. In 30 B.C. it was annexed to Rome and ranked as the second city of the Roman Empire. When taken by Amru the Arabian Alexantlria, ANUTMROUr.H THK RMKRALI) I8LK 43 in 640. he rlcscribcd it then as containinK 4.000 palaces. 4.000 baths, and 400 theatres and phiccs of amusement- To-day the city in apiwarance is modern, but is proud of its history, and still boasts of its ancient monuments. Pompeys Column. Cleopatra's Needle. The Catacombs, the Necropolis of Koum-cl-Chougafa, the Museum of Antiquities. ALEXANDRIA TO JAFFA. (Jo,,,«,) At 4.30 p.m.. July nth, we embarked on the S.S. Ismailia for Jaffa. The afternoon was calm, not a leaf stirred, and the sun poured down his hot beams upon the streets and citizens of Alexandria. It was a relief to put out to sea, where the wind toys with the wave, where the breeze creates swells, and where the air is usually fresh towards sunset. Communication with the land is now cut off. The ocean is growing active, it is just full of life, and as if heedless of the swells and whitecaps our little clipper is rolling up to its credit a score of knots. The sun has now dipped below the horizon and the gloom of the night is beginning to place the pall over the dead day. There is nothing to be done now but stretch out in the steamer chairs and while away the hours in conversation with our newly acquired friends, till we begin to topple over with sleep. At daybreak next morning we are in sight of land and are nearing Jo}, a- the gate to Palestine. This town has about 8.000 inhabitants. Of this number 1.000 arc Catholics, the rest are Greeks. Armenians. Mohammedans and Jews Rising high above the water it commands a magnificent view of the surrounding country, even to the mountains of Judea on the east and Mount Carmel on the north-ea-st. 44 ACROgR TWO CONTINENT!. It wan nt Jaffa (Joppa) that tho rclar and pine from Lebanon was landed f..r the erection of Solomons temple; It was here the prophet Jonas embarked for Tharsis. to eseape the Mission of Nineveh; it was here St. I'eter the AiHjstle. raised Tabitha frr^m the .lead, an.l a short walk to the tanners' quarter of the city, near the sea shore. brmKs one to the house where he spent man\ davs. These Jiiff*. rJnppa) are but some of the memories that slumber in this his- toric old town. Once ashore we are thrown in with an Oriental crowd whose robes, trousers and turbans, whose hands, feet and legs have been above water for many a lony day The women wear long white or yellowish-green veils, and the men go about in baggy trousers and with an air that must be, and assuredly is, peculiar to the East. AND THROl!HM TIIK RMRRAI.I) ihLK ^, Thf mfcts arc a luf.vrmth of l,|,n.| all.v, ar.l filthv l«m-s on which, as a rule, th.r.. .s much hustl.. nn-l no.so Th. lonlly camel .talks uIkhu in nil the .ii«nuv of h., rank, and h.s l.n.th.r tin- .lonk-v. with wll stocked baskets, marchc-s, hc-a.l .l..w„war,l. to the tnn.^ ,.ipe.l hv h.« proud master, Hoth can.els and donkevs .,„ the strcH ts are raKm.l in their «)ld c loth.-s. H«>l..iimn'. IVintile .d-ruwl^.n But why tarry in an., aoout Jaffa when there is so much more before us. Rainleh. nine miles d.sta, t. is .asilv reached l.v car- na.,e. Here w,- hnd the Rev. Franciscan Fathers: m a neat convent, built on the site of the houses of Joseph of Anmathea and Xic-odc-mus. Near the entranc^ to the church dechca. d to the saints, there is a ..mail .h.pH winch was fom>erly the workshop of the saints, and in 4« ACrfOlt TWO CONTINRKTf Ij 1 whiih th» mir.'uuli>u» (rucifix now kipt in the cathedral of I.iuca. in Italy, ih Haicl to have hren ma«lc. MrivinK on a^am wo iun>c to Lvdda, a typicol l.^ hammctlan town, m which much activity i* displayed. It waH in this town that St. Peter, thr A|»o«tlc, miracu- lou«Iy cured Entas, who harKe was born After his martyrdom at Nic«)media. the IkkIv was bn>UKht here for burial, and a church was erected which has commemorateil his name. The churci: was afterwarrU destroyed l>y the Saracens. We now take enir def rture from I.y.ida, that quaint old town, with a history and memories that entitle it to the Kreatest respect. Journeying alonj; we pass through the memorable valley of Ajalon, which is considered a Kattway to the mountain region, and then over the Judean Hills to the most interestinji city in the world— Jcru.salem. JERUSALEM THE HOLY CITV. We are approachinjr Jerusalem from the East Over- powered by emotion and profotmdiy "truck with awe we enter it through 't. Stephen's Oate. Tr the Christian cvcr>' step here is indeed holy ground • quicken our steps in the direction of St. Anns Chur -a harmonious edifice of one cast, a work of the Romaj. sque style of the first half of the 12th century. Consulting tradition about this shrine, we find it was here where she saw the light of the world, she of whom Satan had no share; it was here where Mary conceived without sin: where she was bom. where she wa brought up; she who was predestined to present us with the Saviour of the world! We fall dow on our knees and thankfu'ly admire the mcrcv i I AVD TimoUdll TtIR RMIRALO ISLK ^j .n« |K„„t or our Hulvafon, •• O Holv Jondum J| Ann. w..pr«>.. - () hl„«.., ..,«,,,, ,„ ,,„„„ ^,^. ^ that ,h..u vou.h.«r.. to prav for «h »t th. ,hn,m. of ,hm| >»ho.c. S.,n thou ha.t o,„...ve,, a,ul ^K.rn ..f „... „c,,v' St. Ann'n Church, .frruwiom. In Jon,sa!em. and ah„ut to visit the plac-.-s of ^jroatest h stoncal .nten.st ! (Joi.otl.a. th. Via F)oloro a th Chun h of the Ho,,. Sepu.ehre an.l its tradit.onal .sa. ed 1 nncs, the r.arden of (nnhsemane, the .Mount of Ohves and a -mp,,,, ^,^^,^j^ ^^ ^^^, ^^^^^.^^^ ^^ Jerusalem the lews V\ ai'i"" P'l-,- - t-^ ,. , •' "»^'". UK -^» •-. »^"»--o, .: .arK'c wall wliere the Jews repair to 4» ACROKI TWO • '(VTI^RXT* weeiHtn: alt itre within vu»y wttlkinjj untftiui'. Every rhapt . • the Pi>ur i hcrr it* «rttin){ ; rvrry foot c vM'iiin.l ia i.lrntifif.| with th«« Jkriftuns. What a rhanK. I. vnmv u,«m ihi- city, which waa once the glory ir jcrn <.f Isrw*!! (hitsirl,. an.l Hf:.r it Io.jk» Irvel;, ' I itumiKhty .fomiH, minari'ts an.l whitf ntonr ^ ' s irmmintinjT tU|H>lai» ; hut inM.h- tlun- in a mil .notonv in tli. iitt!.- on.- an.l two storrv MiHujiw ,if .Itij^tr. Jr housos, with tlii-ir bulKintf .lomes, in the narrow, unclean streets, whose lo. ation you have -ften to puess at; m the untidy colored f^pulation. Thef is sa.lness pieture-l on the faces of the inhabitants and a Rloom hanging uver the whole place, which tells us that the curse of the Dei- cide IS still pressing heavilv u|x>n it. Rocki on « Pilgrlinjft. A poor Turkish peasant, on the Dardanelles, recently '■xphuncd to ievcrai prK»is who met him while taking a AM) Ttim.lOH TMR KMKHALO Itl.K _,,, " Whm- art. vmi K'tiinK? • h.- ank.-.I th-rn " Von.l.r tn ,hr ^-rrat ro, k «t tl... nr^ ,hore - •• An.f .b vou know th.- h.Ht,.rv of thai r,Hk?" No, ttut we w,ul.| Jikf to know it " ' ni« unp ctjulil j{tt no fnrtfser on account of bfinjf tirnl, and n- mainol h«Tc on t h •• plain, inrlint-.l forwuni «« if sayinif Iuh f ravir,' Suri'Iy n»any of hj- c,'h fertile I a n d. hecausi- Satan said to Him; 'Tuu.se these ro. ks to become bn-ad." A Mohammcdan'a Devotion. It is not unusual to find parents in the Holy Land who promise in case of the convale- . „ , A .Moh«iiii,„.,ian and hif ChiM 5© ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS scence of their children to clothe them for a time with the Franciscan habit in honor of St. Antonv A Mohammedan in Jerusalem made this promise in ^vor of his little son. .-d behold, the child recovered He hastened to the Franciscan convent and asked for a habit for his child. The Father Guardian deemed It advisable to deny his request, thinking ,t improper to have the habit of St. Franci.s worn by the child of an infidel and told the man that in his case the promise was vo,d^ With this answer the latter was. however, not satisfied, and obtained the coveted dress elsewhere Thus Jerusalem had the extraordinary spectacle of seeing a Mohammedan child wearing the Franciscan habit in tes- timony of his father's devotion to St. Antony This pious custom could be imitated to some extent as much as practicable in this country-. Instead of cloth- ing their sick darlings with the Franciscan habit, the pious mothers might give them at least the chord and medal of bt. Antony, promising to let them wear the Seraphic ivery a certain lengtn of time and to say a dailv praver to the Saint in their behalf. ' ' BETHLEHEM. p ^^J^!^^*"^ >"^«^J««» ^^ take the six mile drive to Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus. The road -s skirted on either side by fields of grain and rich vegetation, and the terraced hills are replete with olive and fig trees Wo are now on the ground sanctified by the footsteps of Saint Joseph and the Blessed Virgin, Mother of God and by the birth of the Child Jesus, whose Name has' given a world-wide fame to the little town of Bethlehem and made it one of the holiest and most renowned spots in the world. ANr) THROir.II THK EMERAI.I) ISLE 5, From the Bethleheni of to-day we can have some little Idea of what it was long years ago. for the scenes, in all essential respects, are the same. The present population IS 6000. among whom there are .,.500 Catholics. The people are administered to bv both the Franciscans and the Fathers of the Sacred Heart. The Sisters of St Joseph and the Carmelite onler have charge of the con- vents m which the children are instructed. It. the east of the city stands the star of our faith, the shnne of which we ,lreamed in the days of our childhood. The Dead Hea. the p ace which is one of the great objects of our dailv thoughts. Before us there is a great assemblage of edifices, but the two that interest us most are the Church of the Nativity built by Constantine the Great and appropriated unlawfully by the Greeks. an,:l St. Catherine's Church of the Franciscans. From both these churches a passage leads to the sanctuary proper-the Grotto of the Nativity. This Grotto IS of ample size, and is mysteriously illum'i- nated by the light of silver hanging lamps and tapestried all over with red silk damask, At the eastern end of s» ACROSS TWO CON-INENTS the Grotto stands an altar, and below its slab is affixed a bnlhant white marble plate, which is continually Illuminated by fifteen hanging lamps. Into this plate is mserted a silver star with the inscription round it reading thus: Hicdevirgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est."- Here Jesus Christ was bom of the Virgin Mary." and lower still, to the right, is the Chapel of the Manger, most gorgeously decorated, and worthy of more than a passing g^ance^ From Bethlehem visits can be made to the Dead Sea. Jordan and Jericho, in one and a half days by carnage. ' Returning we will retrace our steps through the wil- derness of Judea. and through Bethanv, the town in which Our Lord so often sought repose after the labors of the day. He: 2 also Jhe many traditional sites may bo visited: the house of Simon the leper: the tomb of Lazarus; the home of Martha and Mary Then the ascent will be made to the summit of Mount Olivet where a grand view is obtained of Jericho on the one side, and of the Holy City on the other. BEYROUTH TO DAMASCUS AND SMYRNA. We are back in Joppa. the city of gardens and orange groves, and. leaving we will follow the Mediterranean coast to Beyrouth, the chief seaport of Syria, and a town in which European manners have- the greatest possible sway. During a sojourn here we visited the bazaars the modem town and gardens, and even the Turkish and Greek factories fcr milling and winding silk were of great interest. ^ From Beyrouth we go by train to the oldest citv in the word-Damascus, a city in existence before 'the days of Abraham, having been founded bv a great-grand- AND THROldll THE EMERALD ISLE 5,1 son of Noah. Damascus is the Capital of Syria, and occu- pies a site of singular beauty on an elevation which is 2 .00 feet above the sea. The River Abana intersects the nty. and is the life of the whole place. It supplies the houses and factories, and converts the sun-dried desert into a garden. The view of Damascus from the summit of the Antilil)anus is superb. Continuing our excursion we visited the bazaar, which IS among the best in the East; the rug factories which are the finest in the world; and were wrv much — ■"•i. lieneral Vipw of Danmncus. Charmed with the general appearance of the old citv whose history is lost in the mists of its years. Taking up our journey we 'are steaming towards Tripoli a pretty town ranged in three amphitheatres on the hill of St. John, where the Dere-Bachi falls in admir- able cascades and in three divisions, whence it derives Its name, " Triple City." Alexandretta and Latakia are the names of the towns we visited after leaving Tripoli. These towns owe their importance to the great market of Aleppo with 54 ACKO' O CONTINKNT8 Which they are connecU by a road over which long cara- vans of camels and mules laden with stuffs and carpets of world-wide reputation are continually passing Contmuing we come to Messina, which possesses many Greek and Roman ruins. SMYRNA. Our next stop is Lamaca. a town in the Isle of Cyprus with Its thousands of sepulchral caves which have earned font the name of "City of Tombs." Then comes the rocky island of Rhodes, whose ramparts are one of the most remarkable monuments of the military architec ture of the r4th century. And now we are in Vathv the pnncipal port and the capital of the Samos Island sur- rounded with famous virieyards which furnish the well- known wine Continuing our coast journey we are soon m Smyrna, the greatest seaport of Anatolia, whence im- mense quantities of oriental products of everj- descrip- tion are shipped to all parts of the world, including the raisms and dried figs with which all are familiar This city was founded in iioo P.C.. and has histori- cal memories galore. It is the recognized great market of Turkey m Asia and is well supplied with mosques and minarets. Its bazaar is neariy always filled with noisy crowds. A splendid view of the coast and the surround- ing country is had from Mount Pagus. The different tribes and nationalities one meets in a trip through this section of the worid give an indescribable charm and picturesque variety to the journey, often helping one to over ook the inconveniences of travel aad forget the Winding dust, the dirty dirt, abominable smells and the loathsome vermin.-the usual array of drawbacks to travel m all iiastcrn countries. AND THROUOH THK EMERALD ISLIS 55 CONSTANTINOPLE. From Smyrna we proceed to Constantinople. This city >s built on seven hills like Rome, extends along the Bosphorus. the shores of the Golden Horn, and is the proud and picturesquely beautiful capital of Turkey. There is much to see here mosques, domes, monu- ments ," Kreat numbers. Anions the most interesting mosques is St. Sophia, which was built at a cost of SS-ooo.ooo. Tchcrajjan Serai, the chief of the imperial View of Hnophoruii, Cnn.itantinriple. palaces, is a building of immense size, of marb' of a luxury and magnificence which is unexcelled in all -, irope and almost surpasses belief. The bazaar at Constan- tinople ranks next to that of Damascus. Visits were then made to the museum and the Genoese Tower In a nutshell, we may say of Constantinople that it is florid in architecture, gorgeous in color, and imposing in the position ix holds between two continents 5* ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS Hvfore proceedinK to Athens our stoamer sailed up the Hosphorus to the Black Sea. which is considered the most .lehKhtful and en.joyal.le sail out of Constantinople. ATHENS. I-eaving Constantinople we quictlv proceed through narrow channels, and after passing the inland sea of Marmora follow the coast to Salonica. an imrK,rtant '.'':'%.-,• t- *• ' i \ > ir I'worama of C.nMantinople ,nd Bosphoriw. town in Turkey of Europe. It holds a prominent posi- tion at the end of the Macedonian Gulf, and contains a great number of monuments which date from antiquity A httle further on we come to Piraeus, the port of Athens, and our ship dropped anchor in the Roadstead Piraeus of the present day is a modem town in appear- ance with wide and regular streets, beautiful and spacious buildmgs. large squares and parks. But wc must not AND TilRUUOII THE KMRKALU ISLE 57 tarry here. There is a carriaKo. let us take it. and drive to Athens, the capital and largest city of Clrcece. In three hours we found ourselves driving through the streets of the ancient city, which grew up around the Acropohs ; and contains, besides a palace and government buildings, a splendid cathedral, a university, museum and a num- ber of schools. The Athenians were at the summit of their national glor\' when they de!ivere- ^^»- the Kath of Alexander the (Ireat Athens suffered many humiliations. Wars followe.l nn,i ^ ' roiiowed. and emperors oppressed hor. but none with the severity of Vespasian Her •sorrows were turned into joy under Adrian, who became a great benefactor. Marcus Antonius also held a high place m their esteem. centunes. It was at her fountains of knowledge that Horace received his in.pres...s: that Marcus developed his ove for philosophy. It was on Mars Hil, that St wL su^ltrif:"^ ^"'^""^ ^''' ^" ^^°^- that was sublime. After an extended period of peace .'was besieged bv Alaric. saved by Minerva and Achilk. Z AND TMROUOM TIIK EMRRALD tSLK 50 foddcM and the hero. BciieKcd axain by ScRurui Leo who w;w unable to take her. iihe fell to th^ nuns of Marquis of Mont«errat and !«urrendercd. Her fortunes now were many and varied until she fell into the hands of the Turks. Athens is known as the homo of the scholar, in which one delights to renew his ucquaintantc with the history that entwineth its ruins. l)»ncr III thp il'Ku(unea, (! In Athens both historians, antiquarian.s and artists will find plenty to rivet their attention. Let us ascend the Acrojwlis and have a peep at the marvellous remains of ancient art which still constitute the greatest ornament of modern Athens, Firstly, there is the marble pillars of the Parthenon, sparkling in the sun, as if in rivalry with the snowy crest of the distant but also visible Par- nassus. Tlitii there is the site of the Minerva of Phidias; 6o ACROan TWO CONTINKNTS the Emthcum. with the Pan.lr...ium. CVcr..,.,um and the ..to of the traUiticnal OI.vc Tree «nd Spn„K: the wall, of K.mon the I'e.|.,t«U ..f M.nerva-HyK.,. the .mpr«ing re,n«mH of the renowned Propyl^-a. the Temple of \,ke Apteros. the O.Joon IIerode« Attuu« famed f<,r iu ceaar ro<,f; l),onvm.u. Tluatre (Theatre of l*aahu«). with it* wonderfully prtserved »eat« in »tu. .latin^ hack to the t.rne of th.. Kmijcror Hadrian, or first half of the s..cond A Kiver Henu>, in Alh«i., n ma.ns of the columns of the far-fa.ned Te.nplc of Zeus- O y„.p,s, the Kate of Hadrian, interesting from the well preserved mscnpfons referring to the nties of Theseus and Hadnan; ' Mars Hill." the site of the " An:opaKos Pa J r h';, Tv'^'t "•'' ^'^" ^■•^•^•^ ^' ^he Af;;stle Paul, the H.II of Nymphs, the slopes of which cons^t of rock-cut house fm.n.latinn- stairs -• f 7 ' ^^sjrs. cisterns and water »NI>T»mo.',i,| TIIK KMKH Mil 1*1.1, ^, nvK. tn. ()I,| .\th.-n.«n ||ou. ■ of A«t.ml.lv. thr ^roat -TV .1 „,onu.„..„t. rta„U.„« th.- roa.l wf.,, ,,,, ,. C-.j „ h eh. I».nath..nau St«.|.un, ..xcavatcl f.v (,n.tor U.„ ^u ' HK of marM., ij... ,.,,„,, „,^..^^^^^.^ ^ ^ Ttw Hla.|„„n. Aihrjp^- (irr-,,. or the spectators, the Athen.un An ha-ol.^iral Museum I>. fe^hlK-manns Museum of Ant.,uuies AtheL "'' ""' r""' "^ "^*' *''^"-^'^- '"•«''"res of whuh >ti iquaiud that of Anciont Greece. ATHENS TO ROME. Greece is p., turesque and deh^htf,,!- dern and charming Capital w ^ ' " '""' ^ "'°- ''■ ^t^n^-rary is long and we must keen nn .u '"' *.th the sweetest souvenirs 7th^T . '""'" ^ ''""^^ of the happiest honrs spent i •» AlHOB* TWO (-nWTlMKNTlt in Athtnii. *fv rmbarkwl for Pntran, the iwwt imjHjrtant ■*ai>i»rt on ihc wmtrm rore \» the town of Mimto- loniflu, where Bvnm breathed hiri luitt when he came to help (ireece to recover her Uln-rty. i 3E<».|.iBic«l (iitnlvii, l'h«l»riin. Urarw. A short stay. Captain says we must make time. Zante is but a short distance, and is famous for its trade in oranges, lemons, olive oil. dried currants, but it, too, soon fades from view. We are now sailing past the coast of Epirus. with its memories of Pyrrhus, and about to enter the pretty blue waters of the Ionian Sea. which m.ans that we are within a short distance of Corfu. Corfu is the most northerly of the Io„.«n [«U„cl.. «„.| ,ik.. th. ret of that «r..up u m««„t«in«u.. Ft in the r>rin.n«^ town, how rx.r. and hu. « population of about .,.o'l omc of .t, wonders and the mo,t important points .. intere.,t withm its hi.storic walls. It is Sunday, and the afternoon of a sultry day in July. W.th no particular place in view, we 7aunterJ^ a^onK unt. we came to a square which f,ore the name of P.azza del Popolo. Hailing a vettura we drove along and up a wmdmg road beautifully hemmed with nta.ui' I .> and shrubs m bloom. It led to the summit of the hdl known to the ancient Romans as CoUis Hortorum 64 ACROSS TWO CONTINKNT8 " Hill of r,ar(k-n.s." At present it is a pleasant resort for the people of Pome, tilled with ohjeets of interest relating to by->jone times. Continuing' our drive we reaehcd the parapet at the summit and obtained an exquisite view. Above us is a cloudless sky: beneath us the magnificent panorama of the city and the Campagna. CJlorious scene! one glance at thee moves the dullest soul, and causes him who knows thee, even imperfectly, A Lake .Scene in Home to fall under the charm, the indescribable sptll of thy name. A short distance down, to the right, to the left, one sees domes soaring away above the groups of buildings; every big building which is not a church or a convent is a barrack, or the house of some religious community which has been expropriated into a barrack. Every street is ali\'e with the uniforms of the two armies, that of the Pope and of the King; and here and there may be seen the ANU TIIROU(;il THE EMERALD ISLK 6S cockades, feathers and swords brushint,' shoulders with the monks garb of brown, black or white. Frequently, too, you see innumerable ecclesiastics from all nations marching two abreast in the distinctive costumes of their respective colleges in soutans and bands of multi-colored hues and sisters from many communities, in whoso fresh faces you see purity and faith shining softly and steadily out in the ..lidst of a cold world of p.-ssimism and corrup- tion, and finally beyond the city, in magnificent splendor, Interior of .St. i'liul's, Home. rises St. Peter's- Rome's prouaest boast; the treasury of the world's art; the fountain of Christiantiv. How pleasantly the hours pass by in the presence of such a varied scene. We would linger h^re and con- tinue feasting on the landscape, but the afternoon sha- dows are beginning to fall; the sun which has brightened the day is gradually sinking behind the hills, thus wrap- ping up the picture in the soft clouds of night, and the hour 66 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS be.n« advanccJ we must return to our respective shelter- mK nooks for the ni.ht. Next morning, in company hu ch of Samt S.lvestro in Capite. on Piazza Silve tro biultm 756-767. ™' Here we said Holy Mass at the altar that contains the rehc of the head of St. John Baptist The other rel" Church „f the ll„|y ivj 'lily. Home. in this church arc the head of St <<,-n. . bodies of Popes SS ' °^.^'-^>'^^"'^^^''--P°P^'. andthe Tarcisius fVT ^'"">-^^'"^' Zephyrinus and of St. larcisius, the bov martvr nf tu.. 01 , ,. Frnn. u ' ^^''■"■''^'*^ Sacramcnt. From here wc vis.ted tin- Church of St. Peter in the ^2. v^.e:r;zr-;. -- ?-■ -- AM) TIIRorcil TIIK KMKH.M.I. ISI.H 67 bratcf! Shhno <,J the Virgin „f tlu- Matrrnity, I'iazz;. Xa- vona, Amicnt Circus of Domitian, Fountain of Trovi. passing the- Kind's Palair on the t^uirinal Flill Rospin- liosi an.l Harlurini Galli-rv, Chun li of the- Capuchins an.! Cemc-tery. fiaths of DicK-k.tian (now St. Man- of tlie AnKds), Baths of Caracalla. Chur-h of St. Petor in (hams, the Colosseum, (ioI,lc-n Housr of Wt., Tc-mpic of \\.„us liitriincp to tl,i- (ianl.'ii. 1!. ,.•.,.■. and Roma, \ui .Sacra, Triumi^hal Arch of Constatitmc-, the Forum. Circus Maximus, Api)ian Way, Arch of Dru- sus, St. Sc-I.ast^an C.atc. T(.ml) of Cacriha Mctclla. Cata- combs of St. Sebastian, St. Paul outsi.jc the walls. Cloister Pyrami.I of Cams ( Vstius. Aurilian Walls, Tenij.lc of Vesta, Temi)le of Fortune, Horatio's Bridtje, Cloaca Maxima. Sacred Islan■ "•"'h'-s ^.ensed. we entered the door at the end of the n^ht colonna.le, and having passed the Swiss Guar.is m puturesque uniform found ourselves in Papal territory. We ascen.l the first then the secon.l. third and fourth .tate sta.rcases. the walls of which are a.lorned with works of art. and turning to the ri^'ht alonj; a jfor^eouslv C;u.tl.. „f .St. .AmiH.. witl. .St. IVli.i .,. 1(„„„.. decorated hall, we are admitted to the reception room which adjoins that of the Holy Father, and in which' he received us. The Vatican is a world in itself. Even those who have visited it can form but a very insufficient idea of its immensity. Pope Piu. X. No one who has been admitted to audience with the Holy Father has said other than that he is one of the most approachable of men. When in the past people used to ANDTimoUOHTHBEMKRALDlSLB 7, te . In J,o<|,|y acvoniplisbnunts I.u Hi- Hi)liiir», I'lipe^i'iu^ X has vigor of limb diunitv u, 1 • ir i ...Sins an., op™ ..„„„,;:,'" {C::^;. f"-;'"- ™- God for his p™„|, ,, p , ";' ' " '■' '""°'^ rtoson l,v Peter a„a . ^he":,,..:;.:":; t:^.:", T-' °' 1* AlHOBi TWO CONTINKNTi perod HO juHllv bk.n.lo.J. that ..nc prevents the other from oxaH.d.n« its ,,ro,..r fK.u.ulH. II. know, hew to ronciliaU. with mo.lorution; how to moot the m.«t olmtinato pcrw. veranro with the o.ui..,t fl.-xibihty. Hi, hmRuaijc. i, copi OU8 an.J elevated, his .....timents ji.st. his v.„.e sweet hi. act.onn noMe un.l full of ,h«nity. He is ever)- inch a Pop« It w.M hy his ufT.f.Ie and obh^ing hehavior, hi. muni- fiieme ond «..nerosity his prudence and viifor of admin- .str«t.on. that he Kaine.l the affection of the p^-ople uf V.nicc an.l revolutionize.1 the hfe of that uniquecifv It ^^as 1 • .Xcessive };.H,dness combined with his love for hi. native Ian if that led imite.l Italy to believe that its en- ormities would bff condone*! and it. plausible pre- tf-nsions ncoijnized once he ascended the t h r o n e. In their ignorance, little did thev reckon on their man There was a motive in his action, after his '.lection, when he chose to be the successor of Pius IX., in whose reign was committed the atrocities which kept him in prison »wi»» Gittnl, ill the Vntican. Home. ANO TMMOLM;h TMK KM» MaI.O ItLR 7J unj rhe «,cnlc.^...H which .Hv..u..| h.m ..( hw p^.trimonv cf Peter. With alt \m f.,r«,v,n« nature h.- ...ul.J not n- .uKniic thf toncliti„n „f tl,,,,^, brouK'ht alwut hv tho rapine and villainv of m a,««tatv Sunhnum kini;. The key-note of his musion wus an. are ^M^mg attondo.l to hy Pio Docimo wh, Z cm.nc.nt,v qu^l.ficd to uphold with honor t^ZZjl "Rhts of t.. un.vor.», Church. Nen v.ar .'oH X -^brate hu jaccrdotal Oc.den Jul.jc.. and eve v dl monnrafon of m.nKled K.val.v and affection Thotn h.m on that ounpicious o<'ca«ion will be ^n FLORENCE. After visitinK the places indu-..-.>d as star attra. .ons , ,„, , ^,,^,,.„^.^. ^^ ^^^ friend wo; pZ' ;\:'"' """^>' ^''^^ -"^ »h-"«h Aqui a thoM- balmy m..l-summ..r morninKs ,n luK- th t..>^H a .„,., , ,_^^„^ 4t:.;::ta:'i sr y «.... a quartett. whom chance ha.l thrown to' ther .n Rom ,ff .,.^^,^.^ ,,^^^^^ an , protession l;; yet the hours sl.pped ,, ,„ .j,^.^.^^^,,^. ^ J^^ som.^.ood anKe. must have n.arked the hour that bro , «s ^o l.app.,y together. VVe were friends, we became greater friends; and merrilv thn ..f» 'Jtcame merriiN the afternoon went by. in AND THBOUOH rMK RMBRAtn IIILR 7« )nkvn ami tttU'«. until our train risbf.l iiuo Fl«)n.ncf. At thf .n wr tixik a ratriiiijf a^ f.,r jw» the hotel. I rtmi-mlKT tht- ol.l |,a< k, the fat .Iriv.r, with the hi«h h«t an.l hit «»f a ir<>n«-, I have a quill hut no colors to paint the lan.lscapes of that journey, .so I shall pnKeed to make the a.(,uajn- tance of Florence. • The lily of the Arno," a city of exceptional beauty; a little ] aradisc. known as the home and centre of Itali.Hn art. intellectual life and literatur-, and famous as the birthplace of those im- mortals, (iiotto. Dante. Michael Angelo and manv others who have biiKlucned the world bv their Konius Such writers as Ruskin, Haro and Grant Allen have written MICROCOPY RHOIUTION TEST CHART (ANSI and ISO TEST CHART No 2- 1.0 I.I 1^ 1^ 1 2.2 ill 1.8 1^ 140 1.4 1.6 A / APPLIED ItVMGE Inc mSF •',' ■ Eo5l Ma.n Sl'»«l ■fis ='jc^e5te'. New 'orw '460^ 'JSA ^S ^'6) *ai - 0300 - Phone g^ "6) 288 - 5969 - Fa« /'' A(R(iSS TVV. CMMiM vrs at In,,, h ahout, ts ..,tKut,nn>, an,| luv. s., to sp.ak toU-Kra,.I,..,l ,n s,„........,i„. ,,,,..r„„.„, ,,.,^ ,„,^^^,^.,,^ ,^_^ ^ tl.m.hy nun.h,n,| thnnMlv. .„,..„, ,h„... ,,,„. ,„,. niortalizfil Ik r natiif. UV t.H.k I.,, o„r .■.1,M.|,. in ,1,, |i,,t,.| M,,r,H.i„.,|, I. nil tlHArnu, :n,d n,..r |^.„,a San.a Trm,,.s, .■.„.! th..,u.. ,.n'.. '■'■'■'1-1 to v.^u tl,.. ,,ia...s of ,„„.,-..., an,l .... th.. .r.aMT.s 'I'l.c Tril.,,!!.., l-ffizi CalL-ry, M,,r.M,e,. that arc. beautifullv housed in th. far-famcl (lalkTu-s of th. Lfh^i Palace, an.l its .xtonsion of P.tti Palace-, across the nycT Arno, spanned by the Ponte Vecehio; tl>e Cathe- dra! Santa Mar,a del Fiore. the eupoia of which served as a model to Michael An^elo for that of St. Peter's at Rome; the mosaic campanile „f Oiotto; the Baptisterv With Its famous bronze doors; the Churches of Santa AMI TIIU.>C,,n TM! I \t( iMt I> tsi (■ -■» * I en..,., S.-.nt,, .\!.,n.. .\,,v..ll... ,|,.. |.,,ii,,„, \-,,.|,„, .„„, th.' Stroxz, \>.,l.r: .M„h.,.l .\n...,l.,\ l,,.,,,,. ..,„i ,|,.. S(|ii;,rr Ml thr Si-nuri;!. wlinv ,, n..,,,,,,,,,.,,, ,,, s,A-.„i,,n,!.i H..,rU tlir s,„., wl„n- 1,. u„. |,un„,|, ,,k,, ,n,Mtl„ ,• l„,„s.. hrarnu; tlu' ins.nptm,,; ■ i|,n, ,... i,,,^,, ,,„. .j,^,,,, |„,^,^ „ It vva.s thr tirM hntnr ,.t D.nitr, Nvh., uith hH tn.n.l (.,.,tto Invc.i tlic .-.tv so u, li. ,„„! t. w Irav, „ ,„,u w.tliu.n n ..nt. •Jianil ruii:il, \.-iiic.'. VENICE. \enuc., -Oucrn ..t tin. AdriatK." Thr world's uni.,iu> city of marbk. palaces risin.t,^ i„ the sea Muilt ui)on a cluster of islets, m the lagoon c.f the same name, en tiie hem of the A.lnatic. Unlike other cities Its streets are canals, its carriages K'on.Iolas, an.l these silent •■ swans - slide with mar . elous swiftness an-l pre- cision, under the. powerful stroke of the graceful gondolier f ii ii il i' is 78 .\^'t((ls^ l\\(i (1 i\TI.\ KN'TS '!■.■ -l.-.v was nnuunv; mf-. ihr ^;l„.,,nu,^- u h,„ our train n,ll,-l nun ih.. st;.t..m at Vm,, ... It u„. !.„, a sttp tO tiM .|.i.-.v ot tlu. (Iran,! Canal, an.l no .oon. r ha.l uv ..nt.n..i tl... «u„.!o|a than tins ,na,:;ni(u mt thurouu'hfarr w outlui..! in a Mazr o( ,1,. trie liyhts. What a (i.ani:.. trom tl... .livcTstli.-l lan.ls, apr of tl country: Kv..rv,lnn« ,s so soft, so ,H.a...ful. so fas. inai- inu. 111.' l..autv of ,',. ,.,,„,., „„, ^.,,1,,^ ,,,. ^,^^ ^^.,^^^_^ tl... ass.,,.l.|,.,| ^-on.lolas. ,!„. „,l,al„tants u, V.^utian -'rev as ic I'hv n.-.a TIIMnr.ill Tin; i;\|| HAI I. Isl.K descriptions, .hvid.s \V.,ur. i„ „^ t..rtu..,„ .,,„rs... ,„to two un.qual i.arts, an-l ,. ,1,.. pruMp..! tlH.mu.^-hfar.. for tratt'u' ainl plfa^tirc As wr Kli.lr.l on, an.l passrd s.v.ral lumdn,l ..(Irts, tlur,. ,amc tron. win-l.-u. arwl l.aKnni.s ..n nth.r si,lJ sw.rt strains „i unisu-. vvlui li .nl.an.r.l tlir m .n.- and turnf.l thr C.rand Canal into a fairs land of tlir nielli. It was ahout S p.,n. l.cfon- wr na. lud the lU:m RiviiK.-. a liotrl cliarniinulv sitiiaf.^d at tlir wat. r\ , di,'-. re..,|,„E lMu,.,„„, St. Ma,k'- S,,„urr. V.-„ opposite tlR. L,d„, And tlu.n, attcr ^H-ttin,' s.-ttLdluv •strolled aloiiK the Grand Promenade and intr. St. Mark's Square, where thousan.l ».v St. Marks (•atlu.iral ; ,1,.. north s,.k. is almost tnt.rdy tak.-n up |,y tlu- I'ro.urati.- Wrdnr an.l the •nKurat... Xu„vv; thtsr two hu.lihn^;s cnstitutitv,' the K"val I'alaci'. ContinninK' our |>ron„.na,ir alonvf tl... (Irand Catial Wf ol.tam a spl. n.li.l m.nv from ih.^ Riallo, onr ot the thrfi-, an.l tl... most l..aut.ful hridu,. that spans it. Th.-rc ar,- upwanls of our luni.lri.l an.l t.fty small canals, win. h I' on s t i t u t f the \v a t !• r - 1 a n »• s throuK'li wIiIlIi pfojjlo ari' lon- vivfd to thf .jiff- tnnt (juartiTs of till' r i t y. .\o\v I li »' s I' sul)-ian;ils arc lik"\visL' spann- i'iiice. ■\\\> TIIHc.i ,.() 1,11 I Ml , ...r hours '>t stinly. _ An.l Ml oM.\ V.M. t.an ,.r....,.rannnr ,t will I,., wdl to «"-natr.p l.> lauii.h t.,1,.. ,a,„.,u. L„l,.. as..a.l.ath.nK r-,.rt w.thin a short a,„l ahn,., ...,,„, ,|,„,,„ ,. .„■ ^,„, ^,,^^*; H«4fd on a GondoU. A Scotrh ia.l in a r.iiii.ary sc hool w.nt up with a .Iraw- l"K "f \cnKc. whah In. I,a,I just finishr.l, to sh-nv it to the master. Observing that lu- ha.l pr„,t ,i tlu- nanu- under •» -t ' tw.. ■• n-s •• (•• Vennicx- •'), th. mast.r saiJ. - Don't you k,.MV that there's onlv ono • hen ' in Vemce'?" '"•y ""^' !'<•" i" Venice! •• exelai,,,-.! youuK Sandy uith 'YtuM.shment, •'In. th.nkipK they'll no ha., monv tl-ks 111,.,. - f>o • tli.n. PADUA. We have seen oncu.-h .,f Venice, let us move on to 1 inhia. Satunhiv. Auk. ,ud. at an hour that marked the in.ssmg auav ..f a sultry .lay w took our departure from ^'•"Ke. An.l as the train movc.l out we turned to take a parting look at the cupolas and towers till the last trace an. ..ven sha.iow of the fair>-Hke cty was lost in the t^^.h,ht. liu. .ountry through which we are passing is an .mmense natural ,-ar.l..n, with plains an.l hills, moun- tains an.l valk, . an.l luxuriant vegetation. Fruit trees an.l VUU.S are m al.un.lance. And the landscape is un- change.1 for miles and runs on till we reach Pa.lua the picturesque little capital of a province which is traversed by several arms of the HacchiKlione. U J»J ACKliS.S TWO (UN TIM- NTH \Vi- lia\r nf»\v cutinil |»;ii|ii.i nt iitir.rsnv fanir. Arcurxl tli.' statHm thtn- is ni>thint; utlur than a f.w (lilapiilan.! lint. Is, so w." j.rn. .cI,.,! t.. tin. I .. plac wlurr- in wr ...ul.i IwuiK our hats an-l .all it \u>mv tor thf time of our sojDurn. Th.- t.uti is i.,o|,l,,| |,\ 40.000 inhahi- ta.its. an.! IS siirr..im.|,,| !.v a !al.\rinth ..f sha.lv w.....!- Ian. I im.rsjKrsr.l with iakis an. I . hanninK rivuhts. It has narrow stmts Hankf.l with i<.w an a.lcs, whi. h KiVf it th.' appcaraii. .■ ..f a \ .ry an. i.nt pla..-. Tii.' 'ITie Haiiilini .if St. .\nlhiiiiy .if I'li.liiu town, too, ha.s numerous attractions to otVer to visit- ors: the University, ereete.l in 1552; the Juris Basilica, erected in 1172-1219, in whiih there arc 300 alle),'oricai frescoes; the Lo^K'ia ,> ^^ '" ^'"" •^'"-"-... th. II ,... .., .. AntlH.iP. ,,| |..,|„, lH.,..il..rlv kMMVM, as II San,...' , r.-.t,-! „, i.,. ,,.,' I..k.a ,..arl s. , ,„ .,„. r.,|.|>, ,|,. ,hnn.. ..f S, Anthuin ,' »..au,„„||v .,„„,...,. ..„., „„,..„,„,.,, vv„|, .|,„,1.,„, ,.|,„„ '""' •""lt.-.n|.,r...i tlo^.r, vUn.l, ,„,..r,„„u.|.. w„l, ,|„. tn-, an.! tra.Morm tl„ |... ..,„.„ ,„,., , |„,.,„,,,,| t,.,u.r Th.. ..xt.nur .., ,1... HaMli.a,. v.rv »„,..,nh , l.ut ,1.. ,„! t.-iur ru„ta,„s m.-.nv (>.■... ..s l.v artists „l ,.,„,w„ Th.. •11... Shru* ,rf S. »„,h.,„> „ ,.,.. c,.,!,..,!,,,! |',..|„ wals .f th.. Cappdadel Santo are ..mbdhsh..,! with nine '.Kl> rdu..^ (i6th ...nturv. n-prcsmtin,^ s...n..s from th.- hfc ot St. Anthonv hy Ja... Sansovino Antonio and Tullu. Lomhanio. Th.. I.on.-s of thr Sa.nt r..,,oM. l-.n-.a^h the altJir, winch is a.|„rn.-.l with manv vot.v.. tahU.ts The choir c,,,mi,ns twdv.. hronz. rdids ,f sul-j,-. ts tak.-n from llH. OM lestaiuont. Th- .Imm. has manv .hafn !:, whose CMl„„. an.! ««|K .r. ...vr-.l w,M, . mtm^ ,„ fr. I.y tl..' \.r,,n.M. artl.t. Air., hnr. ..,„l J... .|Ava,u,., an.| th.* S«n.„..-.rv,wh,.h .su r.....,u a.M,t,..„ ,., ,|,. . ,.„r. ,, ..,„. t«M.. M„m- a.l.n.ral.l.. w.,rks nf art Tlu- wl,..|.. ,.,ht,... ,h imnum.., »n.| i. >..rm..„nt.,| r.v tw.lv.. ai.-.la>. a f..w.r Tl... sm, ha. alrra.lv srt. an.| th. A..u.lus Im|| |,a. r.um lorth Its ,„,,I„.K amlutn ..v.t tia- .aim pla.n> t-. ih.. .Ijh. tant lulls. (•|,„„!s an. I.,^v..nn^r Kr„ luailv. ar.l „.. |,v om- fhv .ami!, ii^l.ts a,.,., ar ,„ tl..- I..,„us ... th.- ,K.asa,.trv All .^ n.,w still save that an i,u..,ni»». tnun i. w|.isil„u, in tin listantf. I'r. .ntly «,. hoar voir,.s. It .s a ,.,l«nrna«... Mark: Av. Mar.a S,..|Ia! the pil,;n,„> ;.r. s,„,m„«, a„.| th.- sil-nt «r.rts vihn thr.r .irv,, umal hymn. II.t.- th.v ,„„„■ the. iK-asantry of Italy, with La^'s thrown „v,.r their shoul.i.Ts an.! all kin.ls of valises in thnr han.ls 'v.n.l.nK th.ir wa> to tf.r Shrim- of • H Santo " \„,i n..w th.y have pass..!, an.l th.- last ol.| .,n.|.l.s have dis- apjHarctl la-hind th.- wall of a hu«.- .■on,-.,n that is to altonj tht-m s|.-,.,.inK apartm.-nts . th.- ni«ht. Mow this recalls oth.r s.rn.s an,| .lavs at the Shnn,- of St.- Ann.' (!.' H.auf»re. Thi- follr.win^; mr.rnin^j th.> snn rose up in a . lou.lless ht-av.n. an.l pour.,! an al.un.lan.t- of sunh.am an-l spl,.„- dor ov.r th.- i.ttl.' Italian town, as if prou.l of tlu- r.alm 1... »h..n.- u,H,n an.l hr^-hti-n.-.I. Th.- scone was .-nliv.-n.-.| by the p..asantr>- wh.. w.-re on fcx,t an.l j^oinK in the direction of th. Church. It was th.-n .,nlv half-past five and hv the time we reaeh.-.l the Chunh and Shrine, the pilgrims w.-r.. well int.. their .l.-v.,tions. Oh. what pietv! What devotion! And how strange it seems to me that I should \\u TMHui .11 rn^ ruf ti M II ihik ».f rv. r I,, hol.l « V . ,„■ l,k.. ih.x .. t.ili;r.m..i... to •' || S.,,,,.,' or Km ,.,m.,u,ShruM f Sf Ami. .n .., |..„|„.. ,„ j,., ,.„ Italy. MILAN. From I'.,.|u.., .. r..,lu.,v i„urm v ..( mx I r. I.r,n«, you t.. M.l.u., tl... n.xi larK- , mir.- ..t «lu.h w i.r.. „, t«rr^ . ()„ tl,„ nrnf ,,. r.nlwav tr..v. rs... .. r.-i;..,,, f.„M„u, f'.r frutt tr.vs. v.nrv.ir.N. ..Ik iulturt- an.| «r,..n ,t m im otlur wur.ls, ,1... ■• lan.l ||„winK with m.lk «ml |,„n..v " Tlu- luurn. V t.v rail is int. r.-.tin^', r„r t',.- pU.., of vuru-.l iHautv >tu.I lt..lv so tl.uklv th.a ..m- .an l.ar.llv ^-o any •listanc. without Ikuij: fas. inaf.l J.v s.,nu- tun.|«. aj^- ''I'! run, or v,lla,r inasant. Thr Itahans an- a U-autv oMi.K ra..-, an.l th.y hav a v.-ry Mnriuular vrrurat.on for th,. tr.asur.s of anti.,uitv .\|,K„, is thr rapitnl „f thf ann.nt r,on.l.ar.han r.ahn. with a |N,,.uIation of m-arly 500,000 It ranks n.xt to .\a,.|..s ,„ siz., an.l ,. thr wralthi.M manufacturing town ir; tl... .ountrv. It boa>ts an .x-iuisit.. Cothir .atlu-.lral an.l fortrrss. mKuu- Uon.ll an.l MunlKu institutions, puhli. s.juarrs Imrd with spUn.li.l .-.lifi. .s, a iil.rary of manv th..usan.l volunu-, musfum and m.-.ny ,.uhii. l.uJl.linKs n.^tablf for the.r fine art hitnture. It was about 3 i.,m. w.u-n 01, r train rea< hi-.I i»s .Ii-sti- nation, an.l I will cr.nf.-ss that I ha.l som. svn.ptoms ..f hunK'.Tupon m... \\\- „K,k up our aho-h- at th.- ,K>pul..r Hnt.l ,|.- la Franco, in d..s.. proximity t.. the ^r.-at Cathi- orai. a.-d .lin.d to our satisfarti.in. •Makinj; this our startini,' iK.int w h.-Kan hv visitinjj tlK' t aht-dral, which is on.- of th,- lar^.-st . hurc lu-s m th.- worl.l, an.l holds ah.rit ^o,ooo poopK-, Tlu- int.-rior ic 162 yards ,n k-n^,'th. thi- transept .,6 yards i„ Ln-adth. tho facade 71 v.-inls in ».r,..,.i.i. 'ru 1 hi, M ktfs^ two . KN riN> \ r» l.n«h., th,. t.m.r ,r,o f.., .,(„„.. ,|,, ,,.„.,„.,„ 11... r.-.f. m.ui!. hi, ,1,, ,,„ ,., „,. l.u,M„.K'. ., a.|..r„,..| w„h .>M ,„...,;,. I.. ..n.|,|,r ,xt.r,..r vvul. „|.vv.,r.N ..» ,000 ;'""7 '" •""^'•'" ''''"■ "f"' '•' ».. "t.o... ,.„i fuiry.hk.. .•,,Kn..lh l.v m.M.,,lii.lH Tlu uit-rior .s „„. pr.HMv. ,0 a .I.KT.v that |. marv.-Houv H..|o« tl... >U>mr „ ,h. M,l,t.rr..n.an Cat.p.la San C„r|., M.,rr..„,.,. r..l.lv ornam.,.i..| «„|, ,.,|.| a„.| ,.w.U, an-l ..„„annn« "" '"•"'- "f «!..■ Sa.nt. All t-.un.t, Ms,t„„. .V.Ian ..r. nun i„ >,M n.l tlu- ,„..in part ..t .1,. ,r timr in th.- Cath, ,|ral wlnrh I. fnrmt.r.l throuirhmi. tlu- worM f..r ,t. ar. hi' t.'tural UautN. (h.r i„ xt mmI wa. to • I'alazz.. .Ii Hr..ra,- l.tult f..r a J...u,l Coll.... l.v kn-dnn. .„ ,..,, SifH.- 1770 ,t l^ ihr Htat of th»- A.ra.hn-.ia .}, H. ||.. \rtj an.l now .tylnl ,h.. Pala... of S. ,.„.v. Uiurs an.| Arts" It .onta.n. a hl-rarv of ,00000 voh,„,.., C.,,,,,,,,,,,,,, w v,s,t...| tlu. (lall. na V.itor.o K.nanu.l.., ,h. tn-st atfra.. tive Mru.turr of its k.n.l ,„ i:„r„,.,.. ,h.. Mus..., |.„hl,. Vi■^^uU. WHI, a .oil... turn .., ,.a.ntm«., iVrstan ru,s. w.-aiKms an.l anti.,iutus, th.' Ca.t.llo Storz.s... the nla.|..l ..f M.Ian Santa Mana .|. II.. dra.,.., a hri. k ..I.fice <•» th. ,5th cntuf oMta.n.nK tlu- cl.l.rat.-.l Last Supp-r of Uonar.l.; .la V.,u , Tlu- ,.,. ti.rt- ,,aint..l in ..ils on th.. wall (h.for.- ,4.,,,, hns lK-,„m.- nmn- an-l .nor.- -I.tu.-.l an.l IS n..w unfortunat.ly in th.- last staK'.s ..f .Urav San I.orinzo, tlu- ol.lt-st ihunh in Milan A stay of a couple of .hiys in Milan will prow wrv ajfrn-ahU- to the stu.lent and si«htsi-.r. .iiK'ht srcn.- ft was aho.it ,, p.„,. a:. I .row.N had Katlu-n-l on tlu- I»laz.a Kmanu. !.• ,„ front of tlu- Catlu-.lral. lu-tro, who ha.l takc-n i „nu h w.ne. chan..-,l to nu-.-i a fru-n.l who was suffcrinK from a similar decree of intinKuy with tin- luirc of the vin,-. »oth st.K..l. shook hands, kiss.-d. AM> Tllhtii 1,11 t tl> ^ Vf w M n IHI K ■V iii4tiiiM'rH In rush, . I .,11 .irfii ..f ih, l.xw f,,n..tti,| l.\ ., trunk an.l ii Hii. k. II. M.Mihl ..rr.Ht I't.tm 'mi» •h- . r.n\ | >ai.|, hattu' lit' 1^ .1 li.irml.s* r.lluw •irtakiiii; tui l;.\v." lint thv .x.jiiil,!,., .|ilirj..«i> ill lin..i , th. |,nv ihmMi.I, •avini; »|i.i! I'l.tr.. w.i^ >. mi p. ||„. ,,| ,„ |„^ ^|,,.,|| .„„| «nii-.<.n»plitf tti hi* w.ir-Irnl,. v\hiih w.in »iih|„ n.l. .| mi i hinylr l.utt.»n. Afti r ml.., trin.uiti;,' th. tir^J |.rm.it.|,x «»f .UHifuv in .lr.>> hr ri.M' to tlu- Mtuati-.n an. I ni..\..| m "•mpaiiv .,( hi-. .r^iNi^. M.anwhil. |a...l«i >■ r .tt.!.l, .| to hi. Uvt an.l fo|low»-.|. hri.kr tli..iii;h tli<- .n.w.l, ,l.h\.r.,| ;. 1.I..VV ..n th.- I.if ,ar ..f thi' .op, an Irun.l, sat. I. ' (?oii)f with nu'. I'utro " A tussle cnsiu-.l 111 will, h hiliii.ts, liat> aii-i |..ith.rs iVvv until r«!..v.'.| l,\ a t!\ mu; . ..ntin«,'nosis ..f >u. || fxhildtions Thus th, trai;!-.,. tnr.lv «n.li-.|. GENOA. It.ih ina\ w.ll 1..- Htylf.l th.' i.|.al hav.n |..r the suninuT tourist. Its iM-auty .'ntitUs u to this sw.'.t ap- p. lation. Kv. TV rom.- tliroui,'h fh.- vountry has uniiinitiU attraitions to riv.t the att.tition. an.l th.' s. ,n.ry h.'i,'(,'ars lanifua^'e to .l.-s.-nhf. Iliri', tlur.' is .Imil.in^ zii^-zag mountains an.l vmlant terra.t's of vims an.l oliv.- tri'es; tlitTf, you sff a pi.tun's.jue jKjpulati.jn. an.l . h, stnut and walnu- -rovt^. el-.-., itc: hcsi-lcs. liuic i> th.- t-xhiia- U> 88 ACROSS TWO CONTINKVTS t I artitiK i.ir an.l th.. .ountltss .It-Ii^htfiil vii-vvs. Xo w.m.ler, then, that tlu- tourist loves to linKcr and to trawl in Italy. On our train to-day from Milan to Genoa there arc hun.lreds of travellers. Some are fishing i.arties jjravi- tatinK towanls the lakes: others aiming to eomhine pleasure recui.eration and rest, have for their objeetive point tht' beaches and the coast. And all. though their circum- stances, characters and pursuits are unequal, seem to enjo.v the sublime and pictures(,ue landscapes that skirt the way. It was late in the afternoon when we reached Genoa the city of white i.alaces, the .superb citv. After lunch we took a drive to insj.ect and become familiar with its attractive features. Older in legendary history than f'ome itself, Genoa is as interesting as it is beautiful. The marble palaces on her seawar.l slopes are strikingly Italian in character, and the background of green hills display their charms to perfection. It has eighty churches, one .magnificent cathedral and several museums, each of which contains a splendid display of frescoes and statuarv; it has beauti- ful edifices, many of which may be seen along the Via Garibaldi, the Via Cairoli and the Strada Balbi. It has also magnificent palaces, once owned by the Geno..-se no- bility, and filled with valuable works of art. The Campo Santo or cemetery -the finest in Italy-with its unique illustrations of sculpture, is a point few will overlook. But Genoa la Superba is interesting to the people of America chiefly because it is the cradle of immortal Christopher Columbus, and to Italians, because it is the birthplace of Mazzmi, the great patriot. Here the great navigator was born about the year 1435 and began life AND TirR()U(;n tiik emkralk islk 89 in viry luimhle ciroumstanet's. His fatluT was a wo')]- combir, and it is said was of illustrious descent. This, however, is imniatiTial, as the fame of the (hsioverer rested on his own ai hievcnients. It was from lure he sailed to Spain with his oHer of a new world to Ferdinand and Isabella; and Genoa has honoreil his memor\-. Near the railway station is a tine monument to Columbus. Nice. and in the Palazzo del Municipo are many relics of the renowned discoverer Notable among the environs are the Villa Palla- vicini at Pegli, with its beautiful gardens, the ancient Roman burial ground and stalactite grotto. Genoa is also the natural centre for trips to the Ri- viera, Nice and Monaco. 90 ACROSS TWI) CONTINENTS ^tf The road from Genoa to Nice is l.c-autiful. But to those who sumnicT in Nice and Monte Carlo, scencrv alone IS not satisfying. They require something more' lively and interestinK the Klare of the Casino, the excitement of the wheel, the j-ame. This is what ma.le Monte Carlo and whi.t contmius to attrac t men. and all sorts and con- ditions of men women, too. Here are all the lu.xuries and pleasures of the must fashionable resorts, and they are not despised. Tlii> EnKli..h l'r(.riiena<|p, .Nice. NICE TO LUCERNE. After participating in the amusements alTorded bv the visitors at Monte Carlo, and visiting the Royal Palace of the I>nnce of Monaco and the Grand Cathedral with Its phenomenal collection of fine frescoes, etc etc we took our departure from the city alon,. the Riviera 'and erijo>-ed the matchless views of the sunlit Mediterranean. \U changed cars at Vintemigilia, a frontier town thence proeeeded to Genoa where we lunched. Leaving AM) TIIHOfCtl Tin: KMKHAI.K Isl.K Of Grnoa Wf passnl thnnij^'h t!u' same portion of tlir country tliat Wf ha.l sttn a (()ui)1l- of .lays previous, aii.l growing a little tiffd of the long journey, ami lu-f.lkss of nature's loveliness, I fell into a deliiious sIunil.iT. from wliieli I was awakened by the voice of a youth who had rushed into our (ompartment. Fie was a vouns,' student from Cannes, who was ^joinR to Vienna to see his lather. It was his first trif) from home and he was naturally fearful of evervbodv. For .Xiicii'iit Monu. ISI.K q_j •n.l MaKKMori', an.l rtiuT«..s ..., tif s.„al. si.lf „f tlu- Mns into most iH-autiful scrms an.l a valUv of h.Kuna.it veKftat...n. Th,- ,n,.unta.ns an.un.I us are nnth.r n,.^K'cn lur >u,.r..,n.. lowlinrss a.H ;.„ c-nthus,ast,. mountain , l.mh.r, for sl... da.ms ,.r.-,.mm- eni.. ovrr lur s.st.r f.wns in l-antv of mountain s...ncrv Ontluon. si.I.. th.r.. ,s ,1... R,,-,, . la.l in l-riKl.t vrniurc' (oNTINItNTJI, •ivo. At th.. b««e of t»H. ,K.r,K nclicular rock on wl.ic h i. hewn t»u. w,>u„,|...| Hon. A.Wn^lin^ .v.n in .Kath the char,,. .„,n.,t. hin,. i. a pretty littlr lake which i, •hadnl by tall and I.-afv troon. Thm- is sonu.thin« sck-mn .n UH sottmK. and .t all hcautifully ..mun..mc,rat..s the memory th. heroism and «eIf-Hacrifue of the .ountrv'. -ons. who f„ m .lefence of h..nor and right, on the .oth •h'"f> dell stands ,he Expiatory Chn,H-l hearinK the insenption. "Invictis pax." A few yards east is the wonch-rfu (Jlacier (lar.Ien. wh.ch .s also a unique sp^-ctaele. While dig^.n^ the foun- dauon ,.f a house m ,87,. ^^-orkmen .liscovered nine - pot and ,7 m uianu-ter. They were e^id..ntly hollowed in preh,stonc t.mes hy waters flowing beneath the glacier whKh then e.xu-nded from St. (..hard to the north oi Swuzerland. vVater trickling through the Hssures of the glacer .mparted a rotatory motion to stones which, after ssu"res"'T'\! "" "'" '^^""' '''''' ^■«>' ^''^^^^^ the fissures ,„ the course of centuries these stones hollowed out the holes .n the rock beneath, and wero left in them When the glacur rece.led. These stones, consisting of gne.ss gran.tc of the St. Gothard. and Alpine limestone. ore st.ll to be seen in the holes. These " pot holes." formed then by the action of the glaciers in the ice age. are worthy of a visit. Near the Glacier Gar.l.n is the Onental Labyrinth, containing an interesting oriental group, r>a,m groves and rose garden. A visit to the Old Town. ,„ ^.j,i,h the old houses are adorned with mural pamtings. and others with wrought iron work, gives one a good Idea of what an old Swiss town was like Next we come to the Church of St. Xavier. erected upon a site AND THfcOUOII TMl KMIRALI) ItLII g; that comman.ln n splfntl..] vk-w. It m a buitdtnR in the •tyle of the iJith century, with .i^ht arti5.ticallv thcorated ch'ipel* an Museum, with the Cantonal Library, c mtaining ever 80,000 volumes And nenr this ii the Franiisvan church, a «i» Jnc \n ilding with a handsome Renaissance chapel. INTERLAKEN. The scenery in Switxerlami is so wontlerful that th« terpentine length of towns, villages and picturesque castlet that dot the mountains are generally considered iieces* sar>' accessories of ;he lamlscape. But in Interlaken we have a town that leaves u most favourable impression upon the admirer f)f nature's l)eauty. Romantically situated be'. ween Lake Thun and Lake Bren*. it atttrda a grand view of the famous pyramid of the Jungfrau, rising heavenward, mound over mound, in her dazzling shroud of eternal snow. This is one of the "three star" places that few tourists care to miss. A few days spent in this in- vigorating air is one of the best tonics that could l.t taken. Continuing our journey we come to Bern. , an old Swiss town, picturesquely situated among beautiful hills. Its comfortable hotels, well furnished and well-arranged boarding houses, and numerous cottages which are rented to tourists and visitors, give a varied choice of accommodation. The originality of its people, their quaint costi'mes, the peculiar architecture and unique ornamentation of the houses, and curious fountains, give the old part of the town a characteristic and historical aspect that no other place of Europe can boast. This progressive town is well vorth a visit from the tourist, there being many points of interest in it and its surround- ings. 9« Al nous TWO tOKTINKNTi STRASSBURC. August , ,th. in StrftMhufK , „,| xu,-,t. of the N.tioiul llotcl t«)mpany. Str«H.hurK ,H th.. . h.rf utv ot AUace-UmUn.. Or,«,nnlly « Celt,. ...lonv, .t r.mauu.l f..r u ,hort period 'lunnK th- ,Ht .,„,«rv. HO.. „, ,h.. ,k..hc..m..,„ of the Ow- r«tlM.lml ami Si.wk,, 8tr««ibunili. man,, after which, hut still some years before the Christian fc.a. u was used as a m.Htary station by the Romans under he name of Argentoratum. It underwent many change, in the years that followed, but on the ,6th Feb. ,87, it became once more a iKJssession of the German Kingdom' ANO TMKiMnM TMR kMkRALtl lALK 99 Atrt»r'lm« to tlif »in<.u» i»f i^oj it has a |>.»|>ulati-ri n( • 07..HO iKTvm'* it 11 ilu> lir'inc ni tlw ImiMrial irivrrnor o( Abui'i'-Liirriiini-, of the I'.Mmmut.U r-in-t'hiff . f the famous nth Armv Cor|*. of V.w distin^uiHhi.l Hf.hM|» of i*' T. anti th«' wat of ihi* im|Mrtal Ministry. In ur>Ur to jji-i a Nird s «'Vi' viiw of ihf town an'l it* •iirroun.lmj}* we tk a /imrt an-l hit th«* kut^« her (lOHchmuni ilnw ut to th«' ple««'H of inttn-*!. KcachinK the i;i"a»'l Cathttlral we paUHe<| and foum! that itH liistory an'. the Stra!»shut»; Chunh wa^ famoiH an a jua-iterpiei e of architecture; but tlus tiuihhni; is saiv fin- in the vear 1000. Fifteen years hiter, liowivt-r. under Hishop Wrrn- her. the projKwal to rehuilil it orthes, which are covered with stone miniatures, anil are of the jijreatest interest. Both sides of the central (M)rch is |jitew of nUmv fij{urr«. •■*.«•• right h«n.I ...I. ,..rch. on th« h-ft of th. .L.r, ,h. tern, t^ «Plpr, .n th. rorn, of «n ,-l.««nt vouth. «n.| on t I h" u 1 . .n.|..Kr.K.,„ ,,. u... Urt h«n,l ,.nh. th« Vice* „ the .h«;«. of thn«tmn virKin.. Thr north ,Km|, of th« wh.M«tU.r i, cove. With .u^^^^^^^ Sal..n«. the .laughter 6r Krw.n. ,. «.i.i u> have worked a h. Ro„,an southern po.h. Th. r.,.re»entat J V.rK n Mar>^ The«.. l.^ure.. „. indeed „,.. whole gable OK. ,x,rch. are protecte.1 from the north and we. IT: T P ^"""•^"^'"^'y -»«*" their fre^hnes, Th, nd r. r r" ""' "" ''^"«"'"^ ««•''-• - the right and eft of the .ta.rw.y. are the .ork of the .Stra.„burg Kulptor (iraw {i860; ^ The general imprewior. given by the interior is not d..,Mmdar to that of the Cathedrals of Reim,. Bourge. Tro>.. and Pan. but cannot compare with ti,at of the Cob,ne Cathedral, the cho.r and nav.. of which are much aster Beneath the raised .hoir i, the crvpt or grave- yard^ the exmence of which i.s due to the We'tern custom c havmg m every church an imitation of the Holy Tomb at Jerusalem. ■ »"i"o ..J^\u""^^' '*"':^ '^'P** ^-''"'"^•••^ '*>■ Hamnu-rer. 1485 .s the verv one from which Geiierof Kaisersberg. that talente.l clencal orator, delivered his discourses The iWi AND TIIMOtaH THI KMRR«Lt> UtR ,o| •iclm.i,m. of thr ,„Jt. ,,«vr4. tlr,!,* «tH ,„ ,..„^,„ ,.,i„j. On the U'ft h«nd M.K- of il,« ih.Mr » .tiiirwav u,»,ta .»-*n to the Hi. John •« Cha,.!. whrr.. th. .nonum.nt of H..hop tonrii.1. wh.. laid ,h.. foundation »ton.. of th« front in 1,99. „ pr. ,rrv.- ' On on.. ,idr in a narrow glHM nK>f,.d «>urt t» thr t ,.,l. of Krwin. In the .outhrrn nave » a |.ill ir. calUd iho Anx.-I piU lar. ruhly u.lorn, d with .tatmu,. Th- a«tronom,cal dock m thr form of an altar. ttd..rn« the rtwtrrn wall Thii m««n.jK..nt .cnt.fic chef-d-.ruvr- ha, a lon^ hutory Kh,n.l .t. Th. oI.Ut clock, IK-Kun under H„hop John of 1.1. itrnUrK ,„ ,.,5,. had Wen ^.-t up on th- op,K„it«. wall and mark.d the mov.nunt* of the »un an.l nuM.n It |Hm...M.d further a rich pupiKt -how. whieh daily and hourly reiK.«ted inud,,u« taken fro.,, the kchih.1 narra- tlVCT. AicrdinK to the legend, thi. clock was put out of or.ler by a .troke of li^htninK. and in ,547 the council of the free hnpc-rial • uy ha.l a new one executed, which, however. « ,s not co.nplctcd until ,574. Thi. clock wa* destroyed „, the rev .tjon. and the remains mav be ,ccn in the K-auenhau.; the , a«e. however, executed and painted hv Tnhi.s .Stimmer in J874. contains the more recent clock, which is the work of the Stra«burg clock- maker SchwMt;u<. The clock shows all movable feasts, leap-vears. the course of the planets, the phases of the moon, the eclipse, o. the two celestial sr.heres for all time, and .sets itself autonuticallv at „ o'clock on the last ni«ht of the vear. The pupr«.t-sh<,w, which ha.s been made more elaborate and perfect than formerly. jH-rforms dailv at la o'clock An angel strikes the fi„t chime of each quaricr. The I03 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS 1* i 4 ; four ages of man. the Infant, tin- Youth, the Man. and the Patriarch, add one after the other the second chime. Death strikes the hours. an,'s. After admiring' the Cathedral, the mechanical clock. the quaint houses with storks' nests on the chimne\ s. the picturesque bridge and all the local attractions, we took another train for Heidelberg. HEIDELBERG. On leaving Strassburj,'' the scene assumes a charac- ter of ^reat beauty and sublimity. The railway runs through immense orchards, laden with fruit, and sjiotted here an< shinlow of an fmincnrc callid " Kind's Scat." which, nurse-like, carefully shields its protege from the keen and Litinj; influence of the northern and eastern )^alcs. Half way to the sumniit stamls the Sehloss, an impos- ing ruin, whose mouldering walls are elothed in emerald ivy, and from the hei),dits of whiih there is a maKmtieent view of the town ami surrounding eountrv. Apart from the winding road that leads to the top The Castle, Heidelljers, of the mountain there is an electric railway, so that the ascent is always easv. It is pleasant to wander (in ages long gone past) amongst these ruined walls and roofless palaces, where the royalty of old and their household, no doubt, at times held the highest carnival and revelry. Following in the trail of our huxom guide we enter the vaults, where a miniature of the dwarf Perkeo. the court jester. i • 104 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS. Stands opposite the great Tun on a pedestal, with a rubber tube in his hand. This huge or great big Tun has a capacity of forty thousand gallons; was filled three times since i75i,, and there is no doubt, from the breadth of the dwarf, that he assisted in the emptying of it. From here we passed to the chapel, thence to the terrace, and out to tlie courtyard, which is still in fair state of preser- vation. Our next move was to ascend the " great height " on the electric pulley, where we refreshed ourselves at the fountain, strolled beneath towering palm and fir trees, atid in this sheltering bower we whiled pleasantly aw ,• the hours of a sui' afternoon. After visiting the romantic region and admir- ing the glorious views on every side, we reluctantly retraced our steps down the valley to the town, where from the comfort- able seat of a fiacre \vc viewed the historic Uni- versity, which has for upwards of five h u n d r e d years been the proud seat of learning in Southern Ger- The Great Tun and the Buffoon, Heidelbei^. many. AND THROl'lill THE KMKRAl.l) ISLE >05 Hcidolhorg contains every accommoilation for t< ists; and the ancient Nridfjes, with statues at either t the beautiful parks and the interesting old clmrches are worthy of a \ isit, and will repay the visitor a hundredfold. MAYENCE. Leavinjf the jialatial railway station at Heidcll.crk' we journeyed on to Mayence. another little jKissession of the German Kin^'dom that holds out a welcome to the tourist. Let us remove our si)ectacles for a few minutes, and how to the cordiality of the attendant, who is indicating the shortest road to the hotel and the simplest way to visit the town. We are now our own jjuide. and well equipptd for a tour of inspection. Mayence attained the height of its {)rosperit\- in the 14th century, and laid claim to the proud descripticjn - Golden Mayence. In succeeding,' centuries she i-.\pcri- enced many trials, underwent many changes, and vva.s almost totally obliterated. However, towards the end of the rgth century, a new condition of thinjjs prevailed, and once again M-^vence had risen to importance, and to-day boasts of 1. ; opulation of 91,000 inhabitants. It was from here that the discovery of the art of printi'ii,' was disseminated. One of her .sons. Johann Gutenbcri,'. succeeded in p"tting the types together for the first printing press, and sent forth the first printed book. The town is the seat of the district and provincial government and also of a Bishop, an(' it has many public institutions of which it is so justly proud. The whole province of Rhenish Hesse is one great vineyard. Mayence is the entrance to the whole Rheingan. and is also the chief centre for the wine trade of the Middle I • i lOO ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS Ri.ne. Almost Hh- whol,- town is hon.vcombed with cdlars. ami thc-re are some- hun.lr.ds of wine merchants. The sparklmK wine in.lustry hen- alone viel.ls about a sixth of the total (u-rman pro.lu.ti.^n. The town is also the chief auct.on-inart for the wines of the Mi.Mle Rhine I^.ke Hei.lelherK. Mayen.e has its Schloss. an.l its collect.on in the antiquarian, the scientific and the Guten- berg museums, the picture gallery and the library- arc well worth seeing. The Rhine Promenade alonjj the bank of the river IS about four and a half miles in lenKth. Further down is the town hall, and to the south we come upon the grounds of the incturesque Cathedral, with its nta.orous towers ErecH.,1 .n 978-1009 by Archb.shop W.Hij,.,. and having underwent many tires, etc.. very little of the original remams. The central tower, in pure Romanesque stvle finished in ,875, is very imposing. The transept and choirs represent the transition style (from Romanesque to Gothic). On the west choir there is an equestrian statue representing St. Martin sharing his mantle with a beggar. Near the pillars arc sepulchral monuments of some forty archbishops of Mayenee. In the nave the tombs arc of extraonlinary beautv. and the side chapels apart from being dexotiona!, are simplv gorgeous. Con- tinuing our perambulations we come to the admirable monument to the inventor of the art of printing From here wc drove to the steamer and embarked for our first sail down the Rhine. RIVER RHINE. ProbablN- no trip is attracting more of the attention of tourists than that between Mavence and Cologne via the Rhine — the Queen of Rivers. '-'•^i AND TIIROUr.H THE P.MICRALn ISLE 107 . This is not a niatti-r for woihUt if tlie many attrac- tions of till" Rhinr. niado famous hy livjt'nil ami son;,', wrre only hornr in muni. Wf ari' now ahoanl the sumptuously appointed sttamcr " Kaist-rin Auj,'usta Viktoria " and rrady to feast ujK)n the scenery of this beautiful re^'ion, so favored by nature and blessed with a most delightful ilimate. All aboard! the bell ring's and the " Kaiserin " mf)ves slowlv out to mid stream, when-, heedless of all things, she glides down the river of fame, and in full view of the villajijcs and to\vns that deck the wav. Alon« the \ine-cla MTmin^'ly ncvtr-i-n-lir.); •ucccssion. VVV took up ..ur ai....|,. at th.' H„ti.| St. Paul, whii li is imtnodjati-ly op,K..sit.- thf uran.l I'atlu-.jral, aiM aftir dinner tnjovc.j our first car ri.Ie tlirou),'li tlu- ,i»v. Ci.l.iBiif Carhi'ilrMl The car marked RuiKhahn eonduets us in a semi- circle alon^ the suburban streets, which separate the oh' from the new town. Then we transfer to the Run.lbahn. which affords {)icturesque views of the town. Comfort- ably seated on the front of this car we obtain a most c.xtra- ordmary view of the i,rreat beauty of the town, a.xd are able to note the .strikinij difference between the old town with M H no ACHO»« TWO CONTINRNTt iU Kray but hutoric monununtH of the past, and th« new town with its wealth ot mai^jnifictnt buihlingt. ColoKTic may not be the capital town of the Rhin* Provincf. but it is nrtainly one of the prettiest towns in the German Kinifdom, and nssurcHIy one of the most im|)ortant towns in its Province. A fH-ep into its early history shows it is so stained with blood that one doi-s m.t dare sun{ the praises of the " ^ood *>ld times," INTERESTING HISTORY OF COLOGNE. It is from ilie deMTiptions of battles that we obtain our first information reKardinu the Rhineland. Al)OUt 50 U.V.. Ca'!'. a uniform •y-Btcm of nriumx jilltttion a.loptr.l, unii thf my whII built whith wuH onlv tuki-n down in iHHi Tl»! ColoKnr LnivtTHity. foun.lnl in i, to a t'nivfmity. ColoKnr lost it* im|w>rian«.' i.. a M-af. of UaminK. Thf B..nn and Cologne' noih..thultii wvrv aJK>li,Hh.-d l.y N'afKtlron tii 170H. anh«f. Thf qufstion whfthrr CoUnjni- or Bonn xhould iMmsfsu a univontity undrr ihc (VuNsian Kovfrnmfnt was df» idfil in 1H15 in fav.»r of Bo.m. Coloj-ni' had, howfVfr, always hffn pninarilv i. oun- mfriial tity.an«l on its romnurcf rfstfd its jM>w«r. w faith, and inii)ortanff in tin- world K^'mrally. Thfsf l.lfssinK*. howfvff. disappfarfd with ((.minfrfial prf.| »iin|.lv iu a provim iai town in the Rur.|i'|mrtrmi-nt, iho •uintal Uinw Au la rha|Hllo. Thr nmnrkHhU' pniKn-i* of (',i|,»Kn.. jn thr 19th rrn- ttirv maoun- .laririt Mu'T Innu niKotiatinn* (fn.m -Md;* thi- nty pur. haMul in iHHi fr.un thf miliiarv authoritu--. som.- ijo h A. of land, at a pricr of 11.704.000 marlcn. payal.U- at the rat.- of a milli.in marks jn-r annum. On thr nth uf June. • «««. with k-r.at trrrmonv. thr (ifnt hr-aih wa« made in the lity wall, an.i, almost as if l,v majju . a t harming new Kirdle han \wvn madt roun.l the old town no longer hem- min« it within certain limits hut U-autifvinR it. This adl. nn>l ihf ilniMtciVr* hail a»rtkrn«rirty for Citthiitrut BuililinK). On th«- 4th nf St'pt , iH4». the foundation •lour of the n»'W part «)f the t'oloKnc Cuthrdral w«n laid, and on thr 15th ()*t,. iHKo. with jfriat i>»»m|». in the |»r«Mwncr of thf Kmitrmr Witham I, and many tither f>rtm«'». the romph'tion «»f th«* work wan celehrati'il l»y Nrttint; up the Kn-uihlunun (final ornamrntatiftni. Th«' total rx^ten* diture fnim the rt'-iummfnti-mfnt of thr work in iMi4 to the iitt t»f April, i8(ti, amounted to i6.6>4,i5{ marks Seventeen rollec tionn for the ImtldinK «»' the Cathedral yielded an average of half a million eaih. The rontrihu- ti:»n l»y the Stat%' was 5,700,000 niarks. while the amount •IH-nt «m the huildinK in the Mid.lle Agen in reckoned at JO millions of markn. If we «nt«r the Cathedral by the went jKjrtal we are impreiiM'il |,y its HuhliMv;-. ''iin- oL! ;;1uk« windows in the north aisle (left), and splendid new ones (1848) m the ■outh aisle, allow a suhdueil linht tf> jK-netrate, The length of the interior of the central aisle is alniut J90 feet (measured from the wall heliin-l the l)r< ikrtniKe-Ka|KlIe — ChajM'l of the MaKJ it is alnrnt 450 f<* u and its breadth is 150 feet. The lofty choir encloses a number of cha|Mls. and the rt«H)r i.s laid with lovely mosaic- work. ( Kntrancc on the north side, left; cards, also admitting to a sight of the Catlu'dral treasures Domschatz' arc to be obtained from the dfg.). In clia|H-l No. 6 (Michaelskapcllet is the world famcil Dombild, the Adoration of the Magi, St. Ursula, St. Oreon, and their companions. The picture was painted in the first half of the 15th century by Stcphan LochiHT, prr.babiv at the request of the city. AMttTltfK'i'nii TMf! r\iru vi.» iilk "% ,\in«>tiK thi' Cfiiht'<|rii! irt>f>(iri>« i* tlu- |)«' i>( Uu' K<*l art in th« Mulillr .\«i>. h iii rii hiv i»rn«mi'nli'«l v*iih hKun-<>. nn«l tlalf"* frimi thi* iml n< th»' 17th irntury. Tb«- «il' 'T "hrmr uf Kn«tlluri. ^iiui- Inrlv ti«'t'«»riiti( iht- i uiiimutil An hlinlmp Kn- KillHrt (muniinil m luni. TJm- triimun* ihamlHf. arc lull of many otlur i»re>timin oliji-< to worthv i»f inH|Ht timi. Thf Cuthi-ilral fmir* ri«' t<» a hiii^lit of uIhuu ^jo fift atiovc thf tliri-n'hi'n!- turiMl from tin- Fnnt h anil pnttntiil to tlu- (\ith<'rt>a(Ith t.5 mftn-s (c, II i-af»'i't). It wi-i^hH, without tht ton^'Uf, i|?,oookiloi;rams. St. Gcrcons. Accorilm^; to trndition this is the 8fK)t where St. (itTi'on and his Tlu-ban Lt^ion wire kilk'fl l>y DiofUtian iXft A.l>.. and it is supjHwtJ that the Emprt'ss HfU>na, mother of Constantino the <»rcat, trtcted a ihurih ht-ri- tlie ^reat epochs in the history of culture, and npresents aniony others the work of thi; artists of HelK'ium. The Modern Paintin^j (lalleries is also another place where one nia\- linger a Iouk' time with pleasun- and profit. Ten miles from Brussels is Waterloo, the famous battle- field and the monuments comniemoratin),' the triumph of the combined Knijlish and Prussian forces over the French.- With little time now at our disposal we drove to the Railway Station and left Brussels for Paris. PARIS. Four hours jc irney from Brussels brought us to Paris. It was the Feast of the Assum])tion. The shops and business houses were closed, and the whole of Paris was in crowds in t h e streets, in the ^'^rdens and along the promenades. It was. indeed, strange to find the city in holiday attire, particularly now under the prevail- ing conditions; but on the other hand it should be no surpri.sc, if we consider the Parisian's very ardent and enthusiastic love for the Holy Virgin. As I write these words, a feeling of sadness steals over me. When I think what that glorious land might be, and what it is -what Divine Providence intended it should be, and what man has made it my very heart sinks within tre. A daughter of the Church, she is in conflict with her Mother, she is at war with Christ. Passion has led her to " hate God. hate Christ, hate Religion." And .ill this to the W r I * " * 'A / 120 ACKOSS TWO CONTIM-ATS. 4 Up thf f)l'i faith anr till' (."hurt li. the world's j,'n-atfst institution ! Some may fall awa\ during thfsc davs of trial, hut tlicri- will l)C V i r • ^.*.V'T\v-*r llblkfl^.lLuL '"M- '«t- Notrr Duriie C'hureli. I'ltri.'". souls brought into the light of faith by rea.son of the per- cution the Church is now enduring, and they will be tem- pered with such a faith as will stand the test of martyrdom. In this reverie my mind instinctively reverts from t^e degradation and persecutions of the present to the glory of the past " If this work (the Church) be the work of AND TMROrr.ll TIIK EMEKALI) ISI.E I3t men, it will ronu' to n;nij,'ht. Imt it i* In- of 'lod you cannot ovorthrow it. " We took up our aho'lr at tlir (iranil, ami troin inn- visitcil till' places (,i iiuinst, or in the vernacular " \vc set out to do Paris. " L'p to now, wc have had inanv fine views of !iil! and dale, wood and water, mountain and lake, mi we are curious to know what a real city is like. And Paris is alone in its (iraml Opera lli)ii>«' ami .Viitiniial .Acailfiiiy nl Mi|j.ir. I'ari-. class of cities. It is the "inerry ^o round " of Fr;(nie; the pleasure city of Europe. Hut I do love this city an TIIKOLMWI TIIK KMKRALI) ISLE »»J Romans. antiU'tu Catching tlu' (liaKolo by thf waist in tlic Inc.p of tlic string it is im)s. sihlf hy skilful nianiinilatioii to v;nc it an t-xcccliiij^iv rapid rotary niovcuuiit. When this has hccn suthciciitly di- Vfloped thf string is tij,'htcntd suddenly, and diaholo bounds hij,'h into tin- air. As it falls it is caught, and it ^nvs A^fiiui' ■il ilii' i'li:irji|'x-l l\x'<->. I'ari-. without saying that the skilful pcrfornuT is ai)plaudcd. Kre we left the " Jardin " the freshened twili<^ht heyan ♦o fall and the soft, silvery moon and a couple of stars shone brilliantly in the sky. Lights were lit alon;,' the Rue Rivoli and twinkled in the distance as far as the Hois, while in the rear, the walls of the Palace and the Louvre gleamed in the moonlight. It was a lovely night, and reaching the Place de TOpcra wc dined in the open air. or rather 'ncath the awning of the Grand. Here a new world opened before us. Crowds t. If ii IJ^ ACROSS TWO tONTINRNTS A pa.- - passid in the mr.st rrnmcmioiis f.r.lcr, Wli. nov< hv in «lr.-.s.«' Wlu.t vanity of |Hf)|.|. ' What ix. itf St. I'lnuij, lUstrovr.l m iH;o i , tlutitf i..i«ui^;li thr latf Kin|>trors ^sinlins ti) tln' i arriams to (iratnl Trianon, situafiil at tin- rxtniiiitv of the ^jraml avmue of tlif samf natiH', visiting Salon d.s (llan's. m \vlii« li thf ("ournil of Ministirs was lu|i|. tlir I'.nsiv U- tin' Vcstilniii-, Clltirrli ..f tlir \l;i.|f|..iri.', I'liri- tlu> private rooms of \ai,,,|...)n I. \Vc insptrt tlu- ck- brated State carriages, perhaps the finest cf)lleetion hi the kind in the world. Return to the viiinitv of the Palace for lunch. The Palace of Versailles is next visited rtwo minutes' walk). Arriving at the Salon des (;iaees, or urand ball-room, we soon reach the Coronation Hall, which is so called from an enormous picture by David, representing the coronation of Naixjleou I. and Josephine in .\otre Dame, in 1804. In the centre of the room is a veiy fine statue of I! It i-l ll Ill lit> Atm.HH TWO rnvTivrvT* Nai«.lic.n I, Ntxt follows th.. (lalliTH' .|»h Rataill(><«. in will* It Is a «.iT:i>i i>| larvrr |.aintin«s Thr ('lianipH Klv >»•«•«* art- |iUH»>«'i| un tlir luinii vv;iri| ilri\i' Till' ncxi morfiini; wlun >.tartmK' <>»r \ i»it«i w«- «.avv a fimir.i! |.r(i< tliallfnl i.\.r tin- •lta, l''..r tli<' l.in.fit of ilir.M- wliu Itif < 'harriiii. Vrivjtillrii lia\c not as yet si-fii it, let mr sav iliat tlic <'XltTi(jr is an exact rr|>ro(iu(tion of a (in-ek tttnplf. Tlir strut tun- is obionj,'. till- faQadf consisting,' of a pednnt-nt supportol liv massivf Corintliian rolunins, still hcarini,' traces, in spite of tlie I artful resK^ration of wliii li they have been the ohjeet, of the hullet and shell marks of the Cotnniunist j)eriod. The interior of the roof jiresents a series of shallow domes and arcinnKs, admirahiy decorated witii frescoes, and sup- ported hy Corinthian pillars with «ilt capitals and flutinjjs. AM» THNlHliM TlIK KMr.HAIIl 141,1; >*? Fnitn the imni.nH. nryan |>l«t»Ml a»H.vr thr Miural .liK.rway .'iKatlirv riinHitll.»r.»uii.| tin- < hurt h, on lunu r..|umnH whiwf • ontimiitv iM •.rokiii at mtirvaU l.v thr |«i|itni iii^ win. Ii •iurnnuinl tin- altiirs ..f th.- M-lr . h.i|«lv l.ii;Ml a vi rv " «lim. uuHttTimis" hvjlit i» a.liniitf.l ».\ tour .inular wiml.ms m tlu- n>..f. it i> Hi.tmiim.-* .litVhiilt . n.Miijh tf. ft ail on.'s |.ra\ .r lHK)k. i \ tti at t)ii.|.|a\ . an. I inv Sun.|a\ last, thoiii;h tlu- .lav was \ . rv l.riyltt. it n.|uir..| u.hmI rv-s to IIm- (ii.r.l. II .rf Xrr^ill,.., | hr l-..iiriti.iii, n,.y,ri,r. make out ilu- Irrsvois iti ilu' .lim liuht. furth.r ohsiur.-,| hy tlu' . lou.ls of innnsc-. that (loato! in tlu- misty air of ihi- I'liilflinj,'. As a (losing o I I ■ ! ii Iti AC «Ot» TWO CONTINRNT* PILCRIMACI TO LOUVDES. MontluN Mm Hjth, wfhr a Moil to ilu* <'hiirt h o< Our Kuilv of Vi« torv in |'jir»f», I ^'iithiriit up nn tritim ;»n«l nutiti- rrail\ for a pilKniiuiK'c to l.ouriii'*> It wan ^ttill (luvli|{lit wlun I v{«)t utMMtnl tin- train. ;m«l ere* ttarkni'M h«( HMlilr«. Vrrotillr* ail' wondcrfultv Uautiful. Finn' an i>ntly wootllands an<- houses along the wav. Daylight is now fading, the durKness is htromini' more pronoiuuetl, and as the liours advanee our garrulous " eonipagnons de voyage '" grow tired and sleepy. S l»LK 1,9 When I Aokr in thr !nornini{ a !»rillintu »un wm ■hininu i" at tlu- win.lnw ..f my com|'«rtmtnt The nurrv l.inln wirr al.<»ut, luit tluir viny wa, .InmncU in thi- n«»i!«c of thr tnun. itu j>ca«.iMir\ , uk*, win- making their way to the iivUh, w) that thr lu.ur lor th. .lay« tusk had arrivori]i>ii ,il Vi-rwull*- Hi.' t Miimr ttuMii, itself by whistling in thv .hsiiinn-. Tims thry continued to toitu' for hours until tht- number of faithful pil^irims had run up into the thousands. Each j)ilKrimat{e was accompanied bv many priests, an' popular RoyaJ Park, walking through which you come to the Horse Guards; House of Commons and House of Lords; the Tate Gallery, with its beautiful collection of pictures by modern British artists. Hyde Park and Kensington Gar- dens constitute the largest open space in London, com- prising over 600 acres, and is the most fashionable of all the parks. Frequently members of the Royal Family drive here. The Kensington Gardens are very fine. Then comes the Albert Memorial; the Victoria and Albert Museum, with a collection of artistic work in all its forms ; the Natural History Museum, with its natural history collections of the British Museum; the Indian Museum; the Albert Hall; the National Gallery, on Trafalgar Square, with its fine collec- tion of British and foreign paintings; the Royal Academy; II «30 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS British Museum, with its wonderful collection of antiquities; Westminster Roman Catholic Cathedral, a splendid edifice, which when completed will rank among the finest in Europe; St. Paul's Cathedral; Mansion House; The Bank of England; the Royal Exchange; the Monument of the great fire; Tower of London, around which history clings; the Tower Bridge spans the Thames and gives a roadway for the heavy traffic, thus relieving I^ndon Bridge; the Tower Bridge and Thsmen, lx>ndon. Port of London, largest in the United Kingdom; the Crystal Palace, reached f/om London Bridge and covers aoo acres of ground— a popular park for amusements ; Kew Gardens, in the Western suburbs, and a very popular resort; Hamp- ton Court Palace, built by Cardinal Wolsey in 1515, occupied by Henry VIIL, Charles L, and Cromwell— a charming resort to visit; Hampstead Heath and Highgate, beautiful spots in the North of London and easy of access from Char- ing Cross ; and finally a trip up and down the Thames. AND THMOUGH THK RMRRALD ISLR «37 Command witli the chuf cities of AmtTuu. I.ontlon isi somewhat difticult for a stranger to pilot his way about in. This is largely clue to a conglomeration of villaKcs and small centres, which have l>een absorlied intf> the overspreading growth of centuries, and instead of planned thoroughfarci adequate to the traffic, imiKirtant routes of intercommunica- tion are. in many cases, but developments of the tracks which once led independently from hamlet to hamlet- Omnibuses, however, with polite drivers and han.soms at a low cost provide convenient transit in and around the city. While travelling in London one needs an I'mbrdla. In Egypt and (Ireece. tourists u.sc them as sun- shades; in Loniloii. as "shades" from the falling showers. At the moment of writing the morning is lowering and sad. A veil of gray mist hangs over the city ; it becomes darker ere a heavy shower bursts from the overburdened clouds. It is one of these mornings when the folk sit idly an)und to tell or listen to stories told by the more cheerful members of a i)arty. Some one told these two. Lord Bramj)ton, who was better known, perhaps, as r Henry Hawkins, was held in such terror, and treasured with such an enduring hate by the coarser class of London delinquents, they once organized an attempt to blow up his house, but, in their hurry and their unthinking malice, they placed the bomb intended for his destruction on the step of the hou.se next door. It is told of him that he once gave instructions to a cabman to drive him to the Royal Courts of Justice. " Rile Courts of Justice? Uon't know 'cm," said cabby blankly. " What ! Is it possible you don't know the Law Courts .> " asked the judge. " Oh. now you're talkin.' The Law Courts, oh, yus, I should \*i «J8 AtKOSH TWO CONTINKNTS think I .!•» know tlu- l.aw Courts. Hut, Courts of Justico. m you lallH 'cm why. hl.sH mt-, thais u .hrt.rint thin^ alti>K»'ther.'* A very eliKnifii-rl noMtmun, who in hiti day was nnv of our most famous poUtidans, onn- commissioned an ctni- mnt HA. to paint his |Kjrtrn:t. During the course of the exctution of the work the |Kvr was one our check." It was hard work for the artist subse- quently to convmce his noble sitter of the true intention of Iiis speech. LONDON TO HOLYHEAD. We have seen the oldest city in the world -Damascus; we have now explored the greatest city, and are loath to leave it. However, it is the time, the hour draws near, when we must leave the Isle of the Rose for that peerless and endearinK Isle of the Shamrock beyond the Irish Sea. Leaving London by the fast Express we passed through AXf) THHiUlill TIIR KMKRALt) IULP riQ Rta.lmK, Oxfor.l, »u. kin«lia,n, HirminK'himi, Slinwslnirv. ClMst.r. ll..lyh.a.I. lUrv the party is transftrn-.l hv J-Hiuii. r .ivrr tin- wai. rs ,.f the Irish St-a to Dublin. With uhat a thrill ..( .i.|ii;ht thi- i.asMM«.rs most <.f Whom an- Irish. wi-Iioau- th.- first sii^ht oi ih.' i.iast ..f Ir.'. land, whirl, is hrok. n u|i into a Kori-.fnis panorama ot Lays, cliffs an.! islan.lH. VNV r»ac hcl tin- North Wall alnrnt sun- set of a misty .lay. Mut the mist .kar.-.l u|> an. I tlu' lat.- A <|iiii'i xirwt III I.imkIiiii. twiliuht Kavf us t mi- to look ahout us. The tim.- o. vupicd in the j.mmey wa< si.x an.l a half hours from Lon.L.n t(» Holyhead and thn-e and a half hours to the North Wall Huhlin. DUBLIN. We arc now in the Capital of thi- recognize.! and acknowledged home of pure {xjetry and legen.l. Surelv our first visit to thi; ancietU dty. so rich alike in its historica:. •rchjeologjcal and architectural features, cannot fail »n 'I t < Hi ar i II I4» ACROtll TW«> CONTIMRNT* btinK rnjoynhlf in uh (lunuit, fuMinittint; in it* intcri'itt, educational in it* inHueniC, ami i vm moral in lU ){t'n« rai itnpTvunis'vnvnsi. It i« the tuHtom of thoM- who hovt- wvn littU- of Dulilin to s|Huk of it ait " a liiy livinK on iht- Klom-* of itH oI«l reputation. " But when one haw MiHnt some time within tt« hospitable walls he Hnil« it to In- a hriKht. ch.erful city. with evcr>' tJi,,nifuHj attraction, and with thorouKhfitre* I'l'iwr Sh. kvillr .Sir«*t. Dulilin. constantly filled with well-dressed and a business- like people. In lact its people, too, have a plcasinj,' ilis- tinctiveness of s|>eech and manner. We arc now at the Gresham. on Sackville Street, one of the finest and most comfortable of nu)dern hotels. Mv apartment is in the third story, above the dust. thou>;h not beyond the rattle of th«- street : and mv win( u* |i.»|nilrttion -lurinK th.' Kniu.r part <>f thi- Uav untl iv».n*n»{. Sa.kvill.-, u ,in.,i „f nuiKnifi.rnt |.rojH)t;ion. i, tho Knat r,n.l.«vou« of th.- ol.i an.| youi.tf, th.- cvntrv .,f husi- ncwi ami of K'w^if*. Ihi- proiiunaihv l.m,kinK .lown u|Hm tht- I.iim .c-m- «n.| ihrn up al.,fnj th,. l.riMiantlv l,K'ht.-.| th..nHiKhfar«ii. I am at.h- l».h«tin«ui.h Ihf iUthrvnl munumvntH whi.h ha\r iH.n .Tccto.l at a Ot;.«ifM.|| Hrinrath the *kii*« of Iroland. Next mi>rnin>{ the party waa up at the uNual hour and • Kan a round «if s,|j;hl-w««inK. Bv rlit irir tram wc passed ro»»){h 8«( kvill.- Strict to OTonmU Hrid^'f, where th« '< v.vr » "" livi.lts Duhhn inf two parts thi north side ill side. Aft%r rrowiinK the Itrtdi^e Wf reach the k- I ' 'hihhn. in the nii>;hU»rhooint the thrtf chief streets Graf- ton. Dame anil WestmorelancI, open f»ut of Cotleye Green. Continuing our journey hv electric tram, on the top of which wc have es- tablished an obser- \ atory, we enioy a panoramic view until Ball's BridRe, 1 8 rcacheil- the scene of the Horse Show and the Irish International Ex- hibition, a.s well as the place where the famous Grattoo strMt, Dublin. Donnybrook Fair ANB THRflUON Tlli RMRRALU ItLR »43 w», hvUi unul th.. miildii- of tb« Imi rrnturv Thf mam futninr.- to iht Kxhihition i^ u wi-ll dMiKneU •tructurr. on oithrr m.L- ^f which ^» a han-Uumr tomr u|>. wiirdi of eighty fitt in hv\^\n. SmalU-r tov..r^ mttrvene l»etwecn a favmh- elaboratrlv ornanu-nti .|, VVh«n the entrance hall is jmswd the loncrrt hall n\ itn Kracfful pro- portion* is ntxt in onKr. ami then mm.s th.- Krai^.l central ln««ni>r Mi. ISlmk- rHthntrnt. Ihilrf'tt hall, the gar.lens, side shows, lakes and »)ridges. home industries, tin- palace of tim arts. Canadian (Government exhibit, one of the f. utuns of the Exhibition, the French pavilion. The buildinKs. the Rrounds, the liK'htinK, and the exhibits were artistically arranged, and have shed lustre on the pr45 the Krass looked sleek, velvety and hright. The trees about the grounds, and as far as the eye could reach be- yond their limits, were fresh and glowing;, and the air was crisp, keen and healthy. There was no better tonic than a visit to the >,'rounds that day. When the hour for the o[)enin^,' of the afternoon pro- gramme had arrived both the town and country were excellently represented. All the stands were thronged, 2- item of the sport. The remaining hours and days were spent visiting the numerous places of interest and the churches, which St. Kevin'* Kitchrn. Gl^ndalouirh, Co. WickJow. are among the many proud monuments of Dublin. Side trips to Kingstown, with its splendid harbor, the centre of Irish yachting, and to Dalkey were likewise interesting and very enjoyable. GLENDALOUGH AND AVOCA. But a trip to Glendalough, Avoca and VVoodenbridge is unique. After leaving Dublin the train runs to Bray; a much frequented watering-place, with surroundings that are extremely beautiful, the next stops are at Grey- ,H 148 AfRORS TWd fONTINKNTS I stoni's and Wicklow; Jmt Rather Lake. (ili>nart, Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart." »5e ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS I The distance from Dublin to Avoca is ninety milet by rail and ten by car (jaunting car), a most charming and fascinating excursion. WATBJtFORD. From WoodenbridKe and Avcoa, a short ride in the cars brings us through Arlow, Enniscorthy. and Wexford to Waterford, one of the principal cities in this famous land. Establishing ourselves in the Imperial, on the Mall, we made the circuit of the town and found it to be of HFi '^H 1 ^pf*v in^K'' V .■'^■^# Knunil Tower, (ileiidalouch, Co Wicklnw. much importance. Owing to its position, which is mid- way between Dublin and Cork, the town's progress has been retarded somewhat, but of late years much has been done towards the development of its many natural advan- tages. Its origin dates back to the 6th century and records of history say that the name Waterford, "the Ford of the Father," was given to it by the Danes. It is pleasantly situated on the Suir and abounds with beauties AND TIIROUCH TIIK RMRRALO ISLR «5» —the rich fields and wooded streams being exceedingly striking. The town is famous for having bctm the scene of many and tremendous conflicts between the Irish and the Danes. On the Mall may be teen the Reginald Tower which commemorates the stronghold of the Danes under Reginald. History records it was here that Karl Strongbow was married to Eva. daughter of the King of Leinster, and that Henry II. landed to take possession of rt>Uecn Hawn Kick, Killamey. the country granted to him by the bull of Pope Adrian. The harbor of the town is commodious and is visited by many of the liners. The People's Park is truly superb and is really a most inviting nook for the tourist, who is generally both sun-browned and weary. While the Protestant Cathedral is said to occupy the site of the old church founded by the Danes, the handsome Catholic Cathedral is a monument which redounds to the great piety of the people. Like in the other portions of Ireland the »5a ACROIIB TWO CONTINENT* jH^opli- art- of n hospitality ami kindly way that in not faMJv forgotten. The watcrinK plans; to the Kouth are Iramore and Dunmore. Thexe are favorite rewirtn and probably the most salubriotiK (.n the f the city of tombs. Every step awakened a new train of thrilling recollec- tions for at every step my eye rested en the name of some one who had exalted the character of his native land. AND THROUOH THR IMIRALO IILI «S3 Yw, in thiK Kreat tlormitory they all %\vtp »u\v by si.lf — Parncll and the Irish orators, statesmen ami patriots. " May they rest in i»cate." DUBLIN TO KILLARNIY. HavinK »h Kin«'s, Queer *s, TipiH'rar>-, I.imeriik and Kern- Counties and K-st at Killarnev. On th* I^kM ai KiUariiry. Of all the trips through Ireland the one we havo just made must be the most fascinatinjj. On either side of the way as far as the eye could catch glimpses of the land- scape, there was varied and vigorous vegetation and a richness of scenery which stands to be admired. Dot- ting the beautiful pastures were a number of snow-white cottages ; the peasantry- were busy in the fields and further in the teeming meadows herds of cattle roamed Pi 1 IS4 •t will. of bright with the Faithful and nana. have my v AC«nu TWO CONTINBNTt The route through thit country t» a conttnuatioo and lovely l»nd«ca[»fii. and will p,.-i '*fl» • Hum AilM-n .Mrturihy nn.) Iwr |.n^slP r.m»b.«it.' K.U.rwy mony of Holy Mass and the shrine of Kreat devotion, is now roofless. This ^.-rcat t«mple of art has U-come a melancholy temple of nature, in which the mmbmed voices of the binls and winds have supplanted tne ps ]ms and swt llinK canticles of yore. an the Abbey without heinK filled with frofound feelings of sad- ness that so maKniticent a temple should in the height of its splendor and u.srfulnoss have been suppressed and -stripped of its sacred beauty by barbarous hands. The ri I St ACRutl TWO rnNTINIMTI whIU •?!(] the (amous wtndow* utp in h i{no «»f the U'l>i>not(hui« of thr filrnii. thi' uld timi' rhiiftaint o( thu liiW«'«, mIionc ■• whit«' h«»r*r " «n«l " \m»tm " arc pointed out \t\ thi' U'Kt'n'l-tilhnK lH>atin«*n to ••vrrv viKitor to Killiirnry. in lamc vault Iicm the aitheH of tho < hiff* of th«' urtHi MacCarthy M«ir family, the |iriniv« nt l)(<«nton(l, l^nrcr IaIi», Kiliamvy. who wtTf kinjjs of Munstt-r U'foro thi- era of St. Patrick. They were foundern of this Abbey an«l of Blarney Castle, in the County of Cork, and were buried here since the foun- dation of the Abbey. The MaeCarthys built the vault, which is very deep, ami covered it with the stone now lying at the north or left side, and which is crossed by iron bars to prevent the effacement of the coat-of-arms. rudely sculptured thereon. This stone probably dates from 1340, and is th«' ori^jinal slab which covered the vault of \S\t TI||lot'<;il tH¥ (^MKHAIl. l*».k il ctm»tni.iiofi HS\m« a*«in.l.-.| thv wtamjuw. |«m.|ini{ to the larif. Mjuittri. i„w«-r wi ..ht.nt»,-.I n ^j.kn.li.l vtrw of th»- •urroun.luiK' = uuntrs . ami .fimiiiK .lomi w.' v»iHlk.'li»K»- Aftir ram- f'lm>C -surih alxwt in th«- Nha.lo\»v itvitim-s. mMlini; th* inicrijii-ms on the . nimlilmjj inonununts whi< M uuraind »tU'ntU>M. Hn<| K'lvinir wav ir, -lir rrlf.. tinn^ th. \ .'iwtstfd. I kni'll ilown to hreathr an ormm Uir tluir »t*rnal luippt- ness, and wciiUJ that, like thf incenst- of prayer once ofTere.l within the imfK>smK walls of the Abbey, it mi>{ht fm.i its way to the thr-uie of the Most Hij^'h O.xl. (ienlle reader, what lovelier emotions than those that s|)rin>,' from the Rrave. awakened by the dear c|ti)arted ' Before f left the pr»TJnrts of the A!>!jey. whtth I had learned to love, the shades of evening had be^un to gather. »5» ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS h' and ere they had fallen on the mounds around me, I per- ceived, in v;hat looked like a neglected corner, a hand of afTfeCtion busy decorating a tiny grave. I then remem bered the lines written by a hand which has long since withered : — When 1 am dead Then lay my head In some lone distant dell, Where voices ne'er Shall stir the air. Or break its silent spell. If any sound Be heard around. Let the sweet bird alone That weeps in song Sing all night long, " Peace, peace to him that's gone ! " As I passed out and along the shady avenue which lead to the car, other scenes unfolded themselves, and seemed to whisper in the twilight: Let thy joys alone be remembered now. Let thy sorrows go sleep aw»iile; Or if thought's dark cloud come o'er thy brow, Let Hope light it up with his smile. Returning, we drove through the peninsula between the Middle and Lower Lakes, passed the Colleen Bawn Rocks and over the Brickeen Bridge to Dinnis Island and Cottage, at the foot of Tomies Mountain, and returned to the hotel by way of the Kenmare Road, after stopping at the O 'Sullivan Arms to salute a relative. Our next visit was to the Gap of Dunloe. The route lies along the northern side of the Lower Lake for about AND THROUGH THE RMBRALD ISLF «S9 «ix iniles.when the sublime scenery of the mountains comes in full iew, rapidly assuming more interesting features an Kate Kearney's Cottage is reached. After a Uttle refreshments— which are usually dispensed by a buxom maid with highly-colored cheek and light green waist— " Kale Kearney." " S5' 'r** *"" "V' '?*''"■ "' '^»««' KeameyT She lives on the banks of Killarnev we proceed on horseback through the Gap, a marvel to the tourist, to Lord Brandon's Cottage at the head of the Upper Lake, where our boats are in readiness. Along the route through the Gap one meets with some very wittv old ladies, who have many wares to dispose of. Usually the i6o ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS tourist is lured hy the Mountain Dew and the winning smiles of the colleen, under whose pretty arm the Dew is generally kept. He then "acquiesce s," pays his shilling and moves on and into other amis that welcome him to the (lap. A trip through the Gap, where won- derful echoes are produced at various points, is one never to be forgotten. And though we made it in rain, I record it in the brighter.t sunshine. Reach- Kuli' KriiriieyNCotlaKe. Ivillurney. ing Lord Brandon's Cottage and the boats, lunch was served, and while the boatmen rowed on by the Upper Lake and Long Range to the Plagle's Nest Mountain, we enjoyed the tender grace of the wood and water set in a framework of hills. The boat then shoots the Rapids under the rustic Old Weir Bridge, stops a short time at " The Meeting of the Waters," passes through the Middle Lake, and across the Lower Lake to Ross Castle, where a delightful trip ended, and where we resumed our drive to AND THROUOH THE EMRRALD ISLI l6l the hoU'l. When nskcd if the scenery and the lakes came up to our expectations I answered in the affirmative saying: " The scenery of the lakes like the music of the, land is melodiously sweet, and of a beauty unspeakably tender." Our last drive was through the Earl of Kenmare's Deer Park to the Heights of Ayhadoe, obtaining grand views of MacGillicuddy's Recks and Carrun Tual (the Cup of Dunliw. Killamcy. highest mountain in Ireland i; thence through the Earl of Kenmare's beautiful Home Parks anil around Ross Island to the hotel. On the route we obtained good views of Mangerton .Mountain, whicii is 2.756 tVet liigli. and the Devil's Punih Bowl. KILLARNEY TO KENMARE. Having exhausted the places of importamc, bid fare- well to a kind friend — Mrs. Donohue. of Hen street, we paid a visit to the Cathedral which is a splendid and stately 109 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS Structure, beautifuly situated, and entirely worthy of the piety of the ane*nit «hotese anH of the ' It is incomplete, inasmuch as there has yet to be raised the tower and spire, which in every Christian country is pro- perly rejjarrled as a necessary adjunct of anv design for the achievement of the iJtrfect diynitx and distinction due a Old Weir Briam (Hhooting tb« tUpitIf), KiUwiay.] the chief temple of a people renowned for religious spirit and for generous sacrifice on behalf of the faith of their fathers. Departing from prosperous and hospitable Killarney we passed onwards by rail, the next places were Far- ranfore, Tralee, Killorgin, Cahirciveen, Dingle Bay and Valencia Harbor. Valencia Island is so favored in climate as to bear the name of Madeira. ANOTHROL-r.M THE RMKRAI.U I5LK ">1 \ From htri- wi- journfyecJ l)y (f»acl> aIon« a tine roa.l. lined witli a landscapf that Iwin- a fresh. I)rt»'zv look, to Waterville. and dined at tJu- Southern Railway Motel. After lunch I took my seat in a prominent place on the Louch. in order to have the best i>osMl)le view of the coun- tr>-. The drive from Waterville to Parknasilla is charm- ing, for the eye meets a pleasing panorama of hills anr«iwinn it all mad*' u|ir,n my imaKinution. that nothint; which I aftcrwardN naw in villaKe. town. c»r nty roiiM tqual or i-ffacf it. With thrw ilrhKhtfuI h-t-hnK** Wf rt turntil f.y way of O'SuUivur.H to Ktnman-. Whi-n ii)ik«. an islet that adjoined the home." A charming walk throujjh Kenmare brought us •. •' .« parish church and convent, and to the market pi.; • vli-.re a fair had been in progress. The town is prospeiv>us iii appearance. It has good-sized shops, a splendid bank, a town hall, and many fine buildings stand promine,.-J' on the streets. On the coast route between Cahirciveen and Water- ville, in the County of Kerry, there are many bridges. iM ACROSS TWi* cnNTIKRNTS Thr loach l»rHnnit a larKi* tiirtv of us wa» about to crcMS oni- of tht m v,)wn up KnUti] il u donkry with bin trail to cro!v« in thr uf){>otitr dirt'ttion, <*o that Uith met in the cefitn-. The clonkcy, the pride of hu niaiter, took aruni-e of iho thorouKhhn-cl*. and hrnnn to back and back, till the master jutKivd from hit «tat, caught him bv th»' hca«l and administered a whip^nng Hut the diinkcN braved and braved louder. The driver (i■• I c*)ul(l ' he saifl. "if youM coitie down and kiss him I " Strange to sa^ it, ?ut 1 can hear the party laugh- ini; yt t. From Kenmare to Cilengariff is an enjoyable coach ■drive, affording fine mountain anrt tty i{l«-n an citrthtv puritiiiM*. in wliu h thm- ii thf ruhtht f<»lmkj'' thf yiw. Iwillv, arlnitUM. fui h»ia, ttn«l »ll run wn to thf wati-r'* vA^v N'onc who v»sit hiTi', »n«l put up at thf tt>«»vi'-namfi| trntil will vwr i>T)>ft (Hen Kan ff, Ni'Xt mornintf. sb>rtly ntU't thi- |(o«tilion had stm k hiK lon^' vihi|» into thf k^ of his Jkhii an . try. Fieri , tfH). tin- lomliitiatioii (»f ijlfn, tnouiitain ;it)i! mast and thf hfuutiful watffs of iht- Atlantic arc very sinking'. Banlry has fVfry accommodation for tourists; has an intff- csting churth N TIST CHART ANSI and ISO TIST CHART No 2l d APPLIED IIVMGE Inc SC '^5' tast Mo.n Stree' 'JS f'oc'^este'', N«» ^ofh '4609 :jSA S ^^^*) *82 - 05G0 - Pho"* S (''6) 288 - 5989 -- Fq, I70 ACHIISS TWO CONTINENTS [if» I Dialogue, A ladv tourist and a young Irishman on the train iK-tweon Hantrv and Cork. " Look at all that lovely land ^oin^ to waste! If the Irish around hire were not so lazy ihi-y louM have it under cultivation," said Miss M. " Vou think so, my lady," said Jf)hn " Yes, I think so, ami with reason," sai nm in Ireland, ^o have you a right to think as vou please; " but." said he, " I don't think you are justified in ac- cusing the Irish of being lazy, when neither you nor any other Yankee— woman or man— could do better in this Riven case. Good-bye, madam " said John. " I must get out here— this is Bandon." AND TIIKaiil to the man, " Vou must have heanl that stout men art.' more honoralde than thin on'.s." " How so " saiil the thin nan. " (Jh' " saiil the dri\tr, " the\ tlon"t stoop to such small thinv; ' " litre's your tii>. liriver! " While ihan'jinK iiorscs at a relay station a well- dressed and rather pompous fellow hoartled (;ur coaeh and asked a youn>; lady whi> was readin},', "Is that seat enj^fa^ed, hidy? ' The reply was immeiliate ami direet: "Ves, sir. and I am en^a^ed tool" 'Oeh, a chorra maehree, " saiil he, "'but you've the sootherin' ton^'ue." There was a sujipre.ssed titter and th. fo{) went away hack and sat down. CORK AND BLARNEY. Cork is a cathedral city, and presents a picturesque appearance. In i)oint of situation and maj,'niticence of prospect it is secoml to no city in Ireland. It is, too, a modern and very thriving city. The streets are wide, the quays are very broad. It has a j,'rand cathedral, fine churches, handsome squares surrounded with splendid edifices, a ^'or^'eous educational and .scientihc institution, and a library of no mean proportions. In prominent {Josi- tions on the main street of the cit\ stantl a fine statue of Father Matthew and a superb monument to the memory of Allan, Larkin and O'Brien Manchester martvrs erected by the Catholic Young Men of Cork. The public buildings «7a ATHIISS T\V(I CON I I.VKNT^. and momnumtsot fhcfitv arc tictiihlf U,t tlitir.iri hitiHtiin-. Of Cork It itiiiv lie sail] witliout ixa^'^eratioii that it i< a viry tl<»urisliiii^' lity. In our visits wc.lj.l not miss thf tower of the Chun li of St. Annr (Kpisi ojiali to hsten to Till' Hills of ShaiitloM That sound so >,'ratid on T! • phasant watrrs Ot tin- RiviT Lr. • Discfndin.i,' the uindm;,' stairs and rcadiini,' the strv-'ct we I' iff- n Hiintrv Hay. ('■> Cork otrui)ii-(l our scats on tin' car, while the bells plaveJ ■■ Believe Me of all those Endearing Voun,<( Charms," • The .Minstrel Hoy " and " The Blue Hells of Seotlr ' " A deli,i,ditful drive alon- the Marina hrouj^'ht our visit \>. .. close. From thi' Victoria, the sceni' of our abode, we drove on a jauntin.i,' car to the Groves (jf Blarney, crossed a coui)le of i)reuy rustic bridges and reached the Castle. The keeper of tlie historic Castle is an old lady, who reminds AMI TIIHiil (ill Tin; I \u:hai,i> ISI.K '7.? the visitor tluit for tipwanN ot tliirtv -tivr \ r.ir- she has provided lor .111 old tiKin on tin- Kt'tKToiis subscriptions of tin- pfopU'. A wm.lini,' stair {..50 strpsi is tlir only av.-iuii- Itailinv; to tlir top and tlie s. .iif ot tli.- tatiious Stone. After iiuieli pantiiik' and nnistennij of strength and coiiraj,-.'. usuall\ reciuired for tlie operation of pla. inj,' ones lips to tlic nia>,'i.' spot on tiie outer wall, tlu ..seulatory .eremonv is bej;un nuieli to tlie anuisenieiit oi tlie fairer s< x, and the small t.ov who diuekies at the idea of th.' thiiiK. Tin. item ralrick's Hrniai'. Cork. passed, we stand a.side and witness " .seenes " in sturdy arms ^ the others Roin},' throujjh. and leavint,' their impres- sion on the Stone, of whi( h it is written "That whoever kisses He never misses To grow eloquent." Blarney is pre-eminently a fairy dell, a region of enchant- ment. F;very inch of the gnnes fairly bristles with legend, tradition, song, and storw and one could spend hours listen- ' 1 >74 ACRIISS TWO CdNTlNKNTS iriK tn tlir t.ilt s <»l llif wundt rlul tlmiv;s .lutu- by suptTiiatural or suptrlminaiv aj;rmiis. .Mann y Castle was one of the stnmjirst lorlrtssis in Munstir. imkI tlif s friends who vi>it them lis 1 did. »1, Jnhin CMhrJul. 1 rrrri . [■■■k^'-^i3nMllB!r^- ... .. . .^ j Si. .JkIiii'!* CittliHflrul, l,trM**nr*k- Resumini,' our journey we continued on to Linurick. The very ancient and yet very charming position of the city which boasts of a proud treaty stone has become an oft-repeated theme. Viewed from the most modern points it stands unrivalled for the uniformitv of its streets and 170 ACROBH TWO CONTINENTS f buildiriKD- NtitluT is it l.ukinj^ in Nature's (harms, for the Shannon, rtno\vn• hvu s|iK'n werf evfrywhfrf .Si. Miirv'ii ('arlir THKuri.ti I ti ^.Ml•;H^l.I> isi.k I •' * ' ( * Ni xt nioriiin« ««• s.t niit t.. \uii tin i>|.| J'.iiluMlral. will, h was l.iiitt in (It.- tvv.lftii ..titurx. Kmi^ Jnlin'-i Ciistk'. wliii h li.i, sum. till, ,,M turn i . .iii.| i-.wits. tlir WalU and C.atfH. i>ortir.fi-, .,t whuli still n iii.uii hitwiin St. Mini. Inn .s Clmri h an. I tin Sliann.m . thr ("atli. .Iral. rrci u-d in tlif ytur 1.S50, Sar>(nM M..nninfnt, .nrtr.j Ic- puMic suli.srription, St. John's Cluin li, wincli stan.ls in tli.' s.maro op|K)siti- thf rums of thr ,,|,l HI.,, k Hatt.r •«-vir tniiiu)r- ■■J 'tflSnl ^^'"^^ %:»tf *>.-, Tlii> ('iiin.-nt. Iliiiiiry. ('.. C.rk ahle as one of tlu> l.usuM liatilc^jrounds of tlu- last snxv; St. Mun; bin's Church, n-huilt in 1H27, and is a handsome struiturc with two lofty towt-rs; the P.-opirs |>ark. wht-ro we .-njoy 1 a rest ncaih the shady trws that niakr the nook so attractive. From here we visited the Industrial S( hool. the County Infirmary. Harrin^'ton's Hospital. St. Johti's Hospital, St. Alphonsus Church, and the magnificent con- vents of whi( h the people are so justly^proud. The only mdustrial as.' -ncies of ;inv extent, in l.imeriok are the I7H A( MOiiH TWO t flNTINKNT* |i k " Hill mi ' ami " ('otnI» iimiI Milk ("<>tn|i(inv " Thi-».' IWO pliM iH j{iv«* i-mplovtiutit to a li»>j,i tmnil" r of mm A imr houfN' i'x> ttr«iion liy th»' lowir Shatimm hrouwlil uh to Kttk'.>e, a ftiHtuotUililc ■ttinii!.«r watirin!^ j>la«f Ami fi'< linj; highly r»fr<'«*lii •! iiftcr (t |ihiiiK<' in thf lUtfi ''hu' watirn of ilu- nnowntil Atlantu, Wi* ."ft out for C.alwas. GALWAY. LraviiU' liimruk tin ntv of tlirc' ili'lriit*. the Kn^ilinli. In*.!! ami Niw towns wi- jourm ynl l.y train for I -i. II A Mlri^l Hirm-. Oalwny. Upwards of four hours. Like the industrious ant I picked up every patch of landscape on the way in order to |)rovide for the future, which is the present. But our pickings throughout Clare, in Ennis, Lisdoonvarna and Bally vaughan were not like the sweet verdant bits of the South, whic'.» one so easily qualifies as beautiiul, superb, sublime. How- ever, we feasted on what Clare piuvided, and arc none the \Mi|llt.iii>.ii tiu )\ili4ur>i'>i)' <:t WofM' for h.lV illv' Ht.l.U- lllr .1. M".!!!!!.!!!. 1 ..t » !'• . ■Ultlt t" an l.ir .!•. .\th; iir- Iti n th.ii iii.iIm - It imi iirt.iiit It was 'uyh II. .•Ill uluii \M ii.iiIikI tin towti .iii-l t'tit'Ti-l n|"I.iv:li. t! Aj'.irtint iit> Mti St I'.iiriik Stn.i. whtTi' wt w, r< till ni.|,, ts .1 .1 ('.i.,lMiH, I'.uUh. Ii\\.i.h l^^m^-^' Killiirv ll»% IrrlMhr. I'm luilw.iv a I harming «lay. tli n- vimUl hi- nuiu' oottcr for si^'Iu-n' -■ n^'. Sf) hailing a rar we wvrv soi.n arnund thi- t(i\vn and uut intu tht- imnu'diati' tni>{hl>iiow I Ho At'iiu<»<« Tv%<' iiiNTi' ^^Tll !•• .ulv miii) ' • K\r<- S«ju.tri' m .1 ^iuimou^ «inlv iniiin rtnp T'litin* iimotiK (iiliir. (» virv vi-mTuM"' • hur. h. ilatinu frnrn ihf i4tli citHiirv ninin't <'i>I!n;r, till prwlc of (ialwav, stiitnlx nil t'li- li:ink i>( till' Riwr I'orrili Thr ( lii('lt, Hituiit)''! "11 th«' harlof. 1* 11 tolonv nf fiilurnu'n. who until ri«rntl\ itiii'li- tluir own Iuwn an It ■ Wmrrf»ll ll.«hr • llMtrl liriiiiii'l- ortcd so incmty tn thu slrcuin. \hU Till) Ml i.ti Ttt»' I V)^ h tt !• I«l ^ mt f WliiU' -taiiiliitk; Mti till liri'lijt t>>" • '•.nl » • w<»« intfUKMil h w.i< . |HM>r tiiilorttin.tti i< !!<»» !»«iiti; l«<| ■> tiHirt Uir iriiil lor Ii.imiii?. •'• f'vs i|.i\s itnAnnii .Ic.ili .1
  • a I) liliiM ti* .1 ri\.irtut lii« .i< iM.nni.iiti < . ulm r<'lii<U- i»f ihf Itrnlk'r, \hv linikcn-hiarti'l irnl l In Hiiv , \\\ |)»M(r . iit\ jM.(»r Imt. " Slu- was har«ft> .| .in.| .m i»l>)iit , >, Knatrit |'tt\ ll.»\« Miiiiiiri-.ii Vir». l)k>iiCHrn(l. I'o t'lttk. in^J lift (iaiway thiii imkIu. I luvtr luanl what lui ame of hrr ]H)OT unfortun.itf son. GALWAY TO CLIFDEN AND LONDONDERRY Tin- ilistanic iKtwrm t.alwav aii'l ("lif,'hliTar;ht. tluTf is the it 1:!; i8a ACROSS TWO CONTINKNTS ruins of the Castle of Aui,'hnanure ; to the left, Loughs Shindilla and Ovrid lie sparklinj,' in the sunshine. It woul'l he difficult to find in the Hritish Isles a more exquisitely beautiful panorama than that which presents itself to view alonj^ this line of railway. Here, too, we ob- tain a good view of the glorious group the Twe've Pins. Our next stop is Recess one of the select spots of Connemara. As a rendezvous for travellers and anglers //>tei^ Jaunting C*i> *nt C«//«ft. Irish JauntinK Car ami Cottai^e. it is supposed to be the best in or out of Ireland. This district is almost entirely composed of mountains and lakes — the Twelve Pins at the foot of Derryclare Lough are seen to advantage. Continuing our journey we slow down in the heart of a wild and rugged bit of country- known as Ballynahinch, and resutning our speed we come to Clifden, the Capital of Connemara and the terminus of the railwav. AND niROtir.N TM*: hMER.M.ll ISLE '«,! * < Clifdcn is exc-i'llently situated at thf head of Clifd'-n Bay. It was founded in the reijjn of (leor^je l\'. by John Darey, Esq., of Clifden Castle, and is a thriving town. It is now the starting; point for the tourist car which runs throujjh Connemara to Westport. Leaving Ciifden the next afternf)on at 2 o'clock on an elongated tourist car, we drove through the rugged and most uninteresting County of Connemara for about ten miles, and it was only when reaching Letterfrack that the scenery assumed a character which was exquisitely lovely. Letterfrack is a modern village of Quaker origin. It has many tine and nicely appointed hotels, and splendid edifices. There is excellent fishing in the lakes that are so numerous here. In fine, Letterfrack is a restful and health- ful spot. The drive is continued along a road that is lined with fuchsia hedges of great height and richness, to Kyle- more Castle. Here a desert of waste land was transformed into an Eden by the magic wand of the late Mitchell Henry, Esq. The Castle is a magnificent structure, in the Eliza- bethan style, with conservatories and gardens of unlimited beauty. The drive from Kylemore Pass is exquisite, the road being carried under huge masses of rock glittering in the sunlight with scales of mica and festooned with creepers. On the south side are the Twelve Pins rising one above the other in grand groups — indeed, from no [)lace can the Dunnabeola Chain be seen to greater advantage than from Kylemore. After a short drive along the south bank, the road skirts Killary Bay, and runs in full view of the Devil's Mother (2,131 feet high) as far as Leenane. Here we put up for the night at McKeown's Hotel, a popular house with tourists, and the centre from, which excursions are made to Delphi — one of Connemara's rare- bits. 1*4 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS Next morning we breakfasted on fruit, ham and eggs, and coffee, with a little toast. At the apjKjinted hour the car drove up to the hotel, and the driver, a small but sub- stantially built fellow, bewail arranging his baggage and letter bags for the nearest stations. He cries "All aboard! " i Irish Spinning Whwl. "The Irish women can not only dexign beautiful things, but can also execute them with indefatigable industry." and 'makes off at a thundering rate, until a hill is reached, when he drops the reins, pulls a small pipe from his pocket, a match from his waistcoat, and then, with a long swing of the right arm along the hem of his trousers of antiquity, he produces light and the beginning of his comfort. Soon he began to throw his packages to the right and to the left; AND THROUGH THE EMERALD ISLB '8J to receive the whispers of the ladies for whom he had lettcm, and to accept the goods destined for other places Mean- A.hile we were passing Glenlaur Mountains. Erriff HridRe, Slieve Mahanagh, Croagh Patrick, and now and again catching glimpses of Clew Bay. and its many pretty islands. Another short drive brings us to the town of Westl)ort. Embosomed on every side in groves and woods Westjwrt is simply charming. Between the town and the quay is the beautiful demesne of the Marquis of Sligo; and that with the gentle stream that runs through the main street adds to the charm of the spot and places it away up among the attractive resorts. Thence we proceeded to Claremorris and took up our abode in a good old Irish house the Commercial Hotel. Claremorris is a quiet town, at some little distance from the railway station, with few. if any great pretensions. From Claremorris we jouincNcd by train to Ennis- killen, Bundoran Junction, Strabane. passing hills, valleys, and woodlands, till at length we entered the precincts of Londonderry, and were lost in the crowds on her busy streets. This town owes its origin to an abbey for Augustine canons founded by St. Columb.i in 546. TIic abbot of this monastery, on being made bishop, erected in 1164 Temple More, one of the finest buildings in Ireland. Both this church and the church of a Dominican monastery founded in 1274 were unfortunately demolished in 1600 to supply materials for fortifying the city. The fortifications were finally completed in 16 18, and are to this very day kept in good preservation and used as a promenade. After depositing our valises, etc., we set out afoot to visit the city, which is clean and well built. It is the correct thing when visiting here to ascend the heights and walk the walls of Deny. The walls are but a short distance 1 86 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS 1 i 'I I from the railway station, an' arc peaceful and prosperous. They have neat httlo homes, well cultivated farms, splendid cattle; and. like the people of the other parts of Ireland, are hosi»itable to a degree that is marvellous. The folks with whom we s[;okc would have us visit Killybegs, Ballyshan- non. Long Erne and Huncrana- much fretjucntcd watering places, but we were obliged to place these favorite resorts on a list for a future visit. Returning after an enjoyable excursion, we were struck with the grandeur of the mountain scenery, which equals the fanous Calabrian range and compares favor- ably with ilie irlories of Switzerland. The whole .scene — the mounts ^I'eys and homesteads on the hill sides — viewed at sunset, flushed with rose tints deepening into copper hue. with varied shades of green, will not easily be effaced from the mcmorv of the Canadian tourist. ' PORTRUSH TO GIANT'S ' USEWAY. From Londonderry we went b ail to Port Stewart, and were able to catch passing glimpses of what is ac- knowledged to be a landscape of exceeding grandeur. Another short train ride and we are at Portrush. We are now away up in the North, and among the -Northerners at Porirush. Our abode is the " Eglintor." 1 88 ACROSS TWO CONTINENT!! ami my room No. 4q. It is a comfortable lookini; hotel, and is conveniently situated as regards tin- leading places of interest. It was fully sundown before I had prepared myself for a ramble through the busy streets of the town; and after the heat of the day and the dust of the train, the freshness of the long evening twiligh. was delightful. Portrush, or the '" Old Orchard " of the North, is a much frequented watering place, and from its general appearance I m I A Nooiwtay Ke»t, (iiaiitn' L'lkuwway. might easily lay claim to the c;ndearing title, " Paradise by the Sea." As a bathing resort it ranks next to Kilkee in Clare, and has attractions which afford mirth and merri- ment to young and old. Bathing is popular, and is much indulged in by both visitors and the townfolk. The ex cellent situation of the town along a wild and rugged coast affords the most exquisite views of mountain and sea ; and its close proximity to the Giunt's Causeway heightens its AVI) TMRolc.M TMK C.MKMVr.n IHLK rS,, ,« popularity An c!,'v'in an.| manv beautiful and fantasti. an h. s iHinhi.r (^.stle is alM.ut half way lu-tween Pnrtrtish ai.d Hushinijls. It is sai.j that a rnom in one of the towers is haunted at nii-ht In the han- shee, a fairv which fiLrures in the legends (,t y.,r.- ;.nd l.e- lieved in l.v many up to this verv da\ \n the river Hush that flows throuKh Hushniills there are !arj,'e quar.fities of salmon am! trout. The Causeway itself is perhaps the most remaikablo and interestin.i; of ail natural produi tioiis. It lies on thi* sea sln)re, and eonsisis of thousan h\m\v or thf human voii «•. Thf Cijant's WfU in n small cavjty in thf rowinK acmunts of this mar\cnous Cause- way the tourist may liave read when a youth at sfh{emen of the pillars will lause him tf) stand in admiration of Nature's handiwork. BALLYMENA. Some day we'll wan«ler hack aRain. For the present we will take leave of Fortrush and t'le Causeway to make a short trip to the town of Ballymcna. F.om the station platform we drove two miles over an even road to Grtcehill, which is the name of the pretty and interesting little village here. The land adjoining the village is the property of the Moravian Communicy, and was purcha.sed from the O'Neill estate in 1 765. In the centre of the village, and set in a jH-rfect framework of trees, is the parish church. On cither .side stand two academy buildings, imixjsmg structures, used to-day as boarding schcK)ls for the boys and girls of Gracehill. At the back of the church, and sur- rounded by tall fir trees, is the burial ground of the Com- munity. I doubt if anyone can enter th's enclosure, where repose the dust and ashes of many good men and virtuous women, without feeling the religion of the place steal over him. There is no mound neglected there, and every grave is surrounded with a wooden pailing to secure it from tile passing footstep. There i.- just nuw one solitary mourner, and she is sitting motionless beside a grave which ^ f I AND TimoUnH THK RMKRAMI IhI.R ,,, may bt- that of »om.- very .U-ar rdutiv,. „r frien.l. Resumitu; ..ur \M feet hinh). A l...:,.n.| has it. that it waH on thi, mountain that St. Patri. k. after biinK varne.! off from hi. home, tenrleil shi>«'f), ANTRIM. Projierly sp.akinK nr) (K-siription could exaKtjerate thf charm o' this pretty littl.- town. True, it has few at- tractions for the tourist. I.ut there is much in the neiKhbor- hoou to interest n siKht-seer. Alxmt ten minutes' walk from the railwav station an.! we rorie to ono of the best prcscrvcl specimens of a round tower. As there was no one aroun.l to in.Ucate its proper height, we judged it to be about 90 feet. r.ike towers of a similar nature throufjhou Ireland, its origin an- but all arc supF)o.se.l to be of Christian and ecclcMasiical origin Close to the town and beautifully situated in a square is Antrim Castle, the seat of Lf.rd Massarene. The chair of the Speaker of the last Irish Hou.se of Commons IS preser^•ed in this castle. Shanes Castle is but a short distanc-j from the town. It is the seat of Lord O'Neill and is situate- and Armagh. The w.l.l and rugged grandeur of Its scener>' and its splendid fishing and hunting grounds attract all those who love the pleasures of the untrodden forest. In this lake a fish called " Pollen " is found, which t*)' Aim)!»> I'm niNTINKSf!* 1^ ii..t kn.'wii III iiiis otlur litk.' m Kur<«|.f TIk.m- who arc familiar Willi Antrim will mal! tin- l.««nt M.in '\'<>\u Moorr nfrrs to i*, a> lollows ' On l.uuv'li NtiiKh's hanks a^ tlu- fislurman wtruj h Wh.n tli<' iliar uilni .m\ .l.ilmin«, l\v MIS tlu' roini"! ii.\v.r> «>f fornur ila\« In thi' wavf iK-m-alli liim siliirinK." 11; . I- .41 MulnHtrwl. HvlfB'). Wv continmd mir vi-ry inli-restinK drive to the town, tlu-nrr to the railway station and |)urchased tickt-ts for Ik-lfast. BELFAST. A short and jik-asant rido and wt- are landed in Belfast; a drive, with muih jolting, on a Northern jauiUint^ ear, and WK are the ie>;isUie. till' tHMtittdillv |MVi-i|, wi'II ttunk' an>l whIc stnit'. tin- orn.tti' a|i|>i aratiif of a* wariliuus.fl. all of wlmb jui»ti»»i» H<. huimr..! |i|.uv in tlu- rank <>i tin iiroifrt-sHivf viuv\ of the llnti-tli I^Un Wr iiTf now itrotiivl lln' • tl\ to <»aliHfy i»ur iuri«wity nml knnw Mtnutlnnk' "I fli<' fami-tl " liiif> " of the North. Though not hi^toro.iliv or mk tally the tapital. HtlfaHt i*, ti»w Miy lUII, HvKut. from a ootntnen ial airl industrial standjKMnt, tlu- nu-tro- polis of Inland. It has a fKjpuIation of .<6o ooo. an«l from the ^'i-ni-ral apfxarancf of the inhabitants one would jud^'c that thtTi- are fi>v \>o<}t |>coi>lr within the limits of the city. Belfast is known throughout the world for its shiphMilding industry. The finns of Harland and Wolff, Workman and Clark employ upwards of ao.oco men. The linen trade has been the great mainstay of the North since the 13th 194 ACRntK TWO CONTINRNTll I'vntury. \mt it uIm> mrtu'* on on extrntitv^ truiii* in enKtni'rnnK. unil in ihv mitnufiit lurv ot miniTitt Htttrr*. It i a thf homr «»( lUv Hi-lfii<«t wxla w.a«r «nKrf«Mtiv'r an nnv ».iiy w- huvi- yet wt-n, Fr«m» t»ur i<«titl>li to ohtuin Mpliinliil viiwn of till' .\lh«rt Mt-tnoriitl. on (Jur«'ir« S4)iiari', t!ir N'fw City Ml n • * ■ ■ in ' -^ 4 3 1 ^^^^^^^^H ^^B rn 1 jr* • -1^ -;^ ._^-:««. TW Albrrt Mviimrtai, ItoKiMl. Hall, Queen's Colk'>{e, the Queen's Briilge and the Museum. On a drive which followed we were muf.h impressed with ihc beauty of the Botanic Gardens I'ark. Here one sec* what is beautifuly termed the Oak Ground, the Flower Garden, the Hawthorn Collection. Ornamental Water and Yew Ground, in which the Irish yew takes a prominent place; the k-.isarj', where the msfs not only rov^ the ground. but being conducted on trees kept for the pur]>osc give AMIl rMHiil i.M THF kMtN\Mi I^IR I'M un-lulatin({ mniw* •>( rtum n.. m «»mu « ii»i'« tiftccn fn-t luK'h. Tin- |..irk t<»«i i<>ntam< a iMfKi- KxhiJtitum Hull win. h i« «h«*mirm'» iiM'tl (or hiiltt .ttxl {mhlit m«'ttitn."». ('otitiiiuint: our ilrivf tliinii;lt thi l.rtil' \ .ilU\ in whu h tin- . u\ lt»«, Hn I oviT tilt niMtint. mi ri< h iti ihnr vtlvity ijritti, vtv n-iuhfil thi' lununit •>( t'«v«' Mil! nrt'l «m.ri-t«il« tml with . Kathtrs. ft is fU'v'antly situatid on the slopf of thr hil! an surroumlinK.* wo now proteed to arrani;»- our traps in f)rikT and movf on to Armaifh. ARMAGH. Lt-avinK Belfast, the ((»mmirrial capital, and entering Armat'h. the ecdesiastioa! mctmpMlj'i nf Ireland, was our itinerary for the fourteenth day of Septemlicr. 196 ACROSS TWO CONTINENTS I t Shortly after the train left the station, a younj; man of fine apiH'arance, in our compartment, began to show signs of worry. He stood up, looked along the rack on either side, then stooped to look under the seats. Xo one seemed to know what the matter was. Finally some one asked " Have you lost anything, sir?" " Ves, I've lost a coat and vali.se." " Why, you refused a coat and valise at the door of the compartment, as \ou stood talking to the young lady." "Did I? How was that? I must have been unconscious, or crazy." It was just this way. As the train was about to pull out he began to say good- bye to his young lady, ad ling to each embrace the words : " I'm- I'm sorry, but it is the only way out of it." Here a porter rushes up, saying: " Your valise, sir." " No, it is not my valise," answered the young man. The porter dashed along the platform with the valise and coat, look- ing for the man to whom ■> did belong. Meanwhile the conversation had fallen to a whisper. She looked sad. Touched by the pathos of her pose, he turned awav, but . He raised his voice. " I couldn't go without saying good-bye for fear you would misunderstand, and I couldn't say good-bye without telling you the truth." " The truth," she said, " The truth of course." She burst into tears. He turned around, very pale, and was about to enter the compartment of the car. " Good-bye," he said, "it is the last ; for the last time." The train pulled out, and the subdued tear found its way to the surface. He wiped it from his cheek and smiled. Soon he begins to fumble nervously in his pockets, and seeks the pocket of his coat ; but there is no coat. Then the search, with the result as above. The train slowed down at Moira; he hastens to send a dispatch to " lona," the only AND THROt-r.H THE EMERALD ISLE «97 I one he knows in all Belfast; and awaits anotlur train to return to Belfast and to her. Moral— YounK men should simply say au rcvoir. and not i^ood-hye. when leavinj,' Belfast. We are now in Armagh, the ^jn-at Cathedral Cit\ , and are standing on a j.ath that winds through the historic town. The dny is all that eouM he desired for sight-see- ing. There is a bright sun in the great canopy above, and around us quiet streams meandering in many windings through the plain. Herds are pasturing in the fields, and o<.casionallv- one or two descend the tiny and velvety banks to drink of the water and rest by the rivulets. Few herdsmen are about in the fields, but the inhabitants of Armagh are busy here and there attending to the important affairs of the home. We now move on and up towards the Cathedral, so delightfully situated on an clovation which commands one of the best views over the town and surrounding country. And the Cathedral, one of the finest and most imposing on the continent, erected under difficulties and at a great expense, partly borne by the exiles of Erin in America, Canada. Australia, whose devotion to home and friends are beautifully expressed in the words of Moore : ' Oh! the last rays of feeling and life must depart Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart." The watch towers of Annagh date from a very early century, and in ancient days the town occupied the im- portant distinction of being the seat of Ireland's greatest schools of learning, the throne of kings and queens, the tomb of warriors and of saints, whose names are enshrined in her meniorv. Armagh has many attractions to hold the ca.sual sight-seer, but our time is limited and for the present, at least, we must say au revoir. 198 ACROSS TWO CONTINKNT8 DROGHEDA. Leaving Armagh we journeyed bv way of Ncwry, Dunilalk, Dunleer. to DroKhcda. and as the train rolled along we obtained splendid views of the landscape. whii.h is all laid out in fields. But each field has its rivulet, and the stream winding on its way around thi; plain gives a freshening effect to the rich soil. Drogheda is a good-sized town, situated on the banks of Boyne, and has a history of interesting events. A via- duct of 15 arches spans the river and gives a means of romniunioation with the shores. The old walls rf the town are now atu mg its interesting ruins. A drive along the baniis of the fn'- us river loads us to the obelisk, which marks the site wh .. on the i^t July, i6go. the troops of William of Orange crossed the rivr to c'ngage the sturdy Irish confederates under James II. William landed at Carrickfergus. and was on his way to Dublin, when the town of Droheda, then in the hands of the Irish, barred his farther progress, and here James gave him battle, which lasted for hours and which resulted in a bloody fight, with man> killed and wounded on either side. From this scene of battle we moved on, and were able to obtain views of Slane Castle and the yellow steeple of Trim. Returning, we drove by the linen and cotton factories, flour mills, saw mills, breweries, tanneries and chemical works, which line the banks and give an appear- ance of life and prosperity to the quiet town. Our next stop is Balbriggan, but let us continue on to Dublin. IRELAND IN REVIEV. We are back in Dublin — the social capital of Ireland. What a number of people we've met everywhere, and from different parts of the world — all, like ourselves, to see the AND THROUr.ll TIIK EMKKALU I8LB 199 3 ^ / •¥ I beauties of Ircluntl. The numbiT, indeed, is phei' lal. Turn wh«;re you may, visitors are in groups and > in abundance, many of them prosperous sons of ^ land, who left their native shores in IjoyhootI, and whose greatest ambition was to see again the land of their birth ami tread its verdant paths. To many, and I may say to all, the appearance of the land was a revelation; the prospect hopeful. Through the valiant efforts of John Reilmond and his party the Government has loosed the chains that bound a"'^ upUftinK of the people; who watch by their destinies. They have in- fluence over the people and rightly so, for they are sons of the soil who have grown to position and dignity. They arc ministers of a religion endeared by suffering, and fas- tened by persecuti(;n to the affections of the country. They superadd to their influence which is bom of their sacerdotal authority the lesson of their apostolical con- duct. They practice what they preach. They are com- panions of people, '.nd though strenuous in their admo- nitions they are kindly ,in their svmpathies. and may be seen on the hill tops, in the viil.ys, in the meadows, encouraging them by the kindliest of words. They are the friends of the poor, among whom they daily dispense the duties of their calling, and they are friends to a degree that is astonishing in moments of pestilence, sickness or sorrow. Of the clergy of Ireland I can say without fear of exaggeration that they are a representative and loyal body of men of whom no nation nor people can feel other than proud. Despite, then, the critics atid the cynics who decry the right of Ireland to an honored place in the ranks of the world's nations; despite her faithless sons who have thrown her a stont when she was in need of bread, and her daugh- ters who refused her sympathy and the balm of consola- tion in the hour of her sorrows, we can say with truth and justice ♦o Ireland that she has aroused from her sleep and entered upon an era of prosperity which she so eminently deserves. Throughout the land they are preaching the gospel of higher education, improvements in agriculture, incentives to manufactures. With all these things under ANU THROUtiH THK KMKRALD l»LK aei wav, hnmv ruh', the dream of the iK^opU". in ono of the futuri! ami int-vitahlr sti'|)s iti Iroland's ri'ilrinptioti. Knr thr pri'si'iit wi- aiv to >av au revoir to tlie lainl of our alTi'ctions; to the land ujKm whiih Nature has so Iwiun- tifiilly lavislud h.r charms to the land ot unmatched attraitiveness. The sun is about to s«t, and ere the entire country is in the ^jray f»f twilijjht and enveloped in dark- ness «)f this ni^ht. let me say; to enjoy the pleasure of a similar tour through the counties and alon^ the coasts, I would willin>,'l> . cheerfully travel any distance and sutler anv inconvenience. Just now the mountains, which slope so ^jracefully to the lakes and the sea. and the islets arc robed in \n>\t\ and purple and crimson ; anrl th»' west is a flame so brijjht as to add lustre to dear old Ireland on this the occasion of our departure, which "It may be for yeu. It may be for ever." LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK. We are in Liverpool aftir a smooth and pleasant pas- sage across the oftentimes tumultuous Irish Sea. It in early morning and there are but few si^jns of life in the neighborhood of the docks. Ere landing, however, I witnessed what I judged a most peculiar scene. A num- ber of men —wage earners were drawn up in battle array on the dock. Behind them walked a superintendent of ship- ping, who examined their shoulders, and according as he found them sound and strong, bid the men be off to work in the sheds. The examination finished, many were still standing until the notice was raised: " Not Wanted." Disappointment was plainly discerned on the faces of the poor men, who5 - hearts were taxed to their utmost with expectancy and hope. 1 pitied them. ao3 ACROSS TWO CONTINKXTS l.iv <>| niijlit Tin- hriKht, \vliiti'-win^,'«d sca-^uIN that haunt tin- duAs win- ulxmt in liustiTs; whilr, with a >;ra\ it ti»nscii)usniss of l)faut\ . ihf swan was drt'ssinj; lur s|i<»tU's>l; whit*' pluni- a^v in the mirror of tlu- wavi-. 8 H. Baltic laarinc LivvriMKjI. The quay is now animated with sctnt-s of faiewell part- injrs: flowers and fruit are beini; l)orne to the deek in artistically arranijed l)askets; officers of the ship sound the last note, and all are aboard. The hell ring's the parting hour, the ^..n^'ways are unshijjpecl. and slowly jjathering way by the iiid of two little tuifs, the proud Baltic steams majestiially out of the harbor and takes her course in the Channel. The sun has now reached the meridian and we »o4 AIHOHH TWO COXriSKNT* -r an- Hway from all Imn.an .lv>r!lin«s an.l tlir h»*v hum of thr mnrmnv.. n ik.s.ii« «n l^' lran.|uillitv of mnm Ah .iti/.-ns of a palatial . itv in th.' s.a w an- MttUni; .|own to the usual roun-l of romforts aixl pUasun-s The .In. is s^rrnc- the air inviMoratinx- th.- pas^.-nKirs «,. iaolo the n-.iu.sitt'H f.)r a huppv voyu^c Tlu' m.m»..T of t.nir.^t^ u»Kia.ymint of all. ..ur trip fnnn lun.l l.> lan.l will bf urn- of the tnost tn.u.yahle an.l unprtT.-lont.'d in .K.an travel. Thus far our pU-asurc is Li-inv; •.•..ultipHo.l. Each one isrelatinn his or luT'expi-ri.nic in Kun)po. an.l, lue.ll.-ss of th.- h.mr an.l the ..mrs.-, thi-r- is much mirth at..l uu r- riment «mon>; thes.- .l.-niz.-ns ..f th.- soa. wh.. are ^roup.- 1 in threes an.l f..urs in ev.-ry available ..>rner ..f the (U-.-ks. An.l thu.-, U ...ntinue.l till the sun.' alr.-ulv ha!f sunk l,.-n.ath a bank of . l.)U.ls. ha.l tak.-n l.-ave ..f the .lav. The lovelv orb of .lav has now .lisappeare.l an.l th.- pr.-lu.h' to niKht appears in ^ray : the sha-les ^row heavier an.l Ien«theninK awav t.) the eastwanl b.ome .larker it is the first steps of niKht hastening to ...nceal the beautv of the dav in her sha.le. An h.mr pass.-.l. an.l the moon with uttermost jjraee rises from a moire anti<|ue-hke couch an.l spr.-a.ls her eU-Kance ..ver a beautiful scene. It is her first appearance in the can.)py oi the nixhi, an.l her supreme beauty n^akes her the a.lmire.l of all. Ch. how sweet the reverie un.ler a richly mellowed mwn at sea ! The next morning the sun appeare.l in his usual splen- dor anu, »""-;;™;, , „,„. „,„,rt.nn« E„.,ywlur. tl"'^' «■»» "'"" 1,'„„ „,„. my H<- ;„«rc.s.,n«: c.v.ry h„„r h» i^ -, J ,„^. ,,„.„, „, ,,,,,„. so .hat « wa,. fc h - . , ^^^ ,^^_^^_^^ ^,,,. ,^ „„ ,ho .lay wco done, that 1 ru ^^ ^ ^_^^__^,, _„^. ,„„ ,„. ™„,ai„cd in th,. bo,.W. E _^^^^__,^^__ ^^^. ^,,,..„„ ,„„,. prcssions.thcdocknas «o6 ACiOM TWO lONTIMINTt Th«>rr i« not it iMHinil in thi* «ir ttthiT thnn ihf nill of a pttiMinK car, an'l though wriiffp.-'l in ii !»tilhn"«<» thai hffatlK'* 44 nn\ «l, I t'in-l mv'M'lf lini{crini; fonilty urouml ihi' "Iwlant l»vriimiil<,lh>' Am whuh \H-uUni ruh harmony lome runKliiik; with thi- Im-fjtr.un'l %uhHi.Iin|{ tht-rr hWaU Krmluallv on mv far a Htrnin ^ rhoral musu', whu li a|i|K'ar>i to mmt nullow and xwtH't -n iti* imMaKi' .lown thf o|i| luthrdral amie m ansiwi'r to tho Ben»-'h«aniU!» Domino Ih-o (Wutian.