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]

u»

KALEIDOSCOPE:

SHIFTING SCENES FEOM EAST TO WEST.

E. KATHARINE BATES,

AUTHOR OF "A YEAR IN THB OREAT REPOBUC," &C.

ILonlion :
WARD AND DOWNEY,

12 YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN.
1889.

[All Rights Beserved.]

*^ -' $

MPPHPPI

•^(o .4-

RiCIIAIin CUAY AND SONS, LIMITED,
IX)SDON AND BUNOAY.

TO THOSE IN CANADA

WHOSE KIND CARE

RESTORED ME TO HEALTH,

THIS BOOK

|s gcbitnttb

WITH GRATEFUL AFFECTION.

aT^^\

«\**4 t

^-v^.i'tL.v > i«>r

■SfJ

INTRODUCTION.

It has always appeared to me that one of the most
beautiful sayings attributed to Madame de S^.vigne is com-
prised in five French words, " Tout connu, tout sera
pardonn^." If it were not gilding the lily, I would add,
" Tout connu, tout sera compris."

They teach us a lesson valuable in all relations of life —
more especially valuable in literature, where the character
of a country, or of an individual, is in question — namely,
that no man or woman can write a worthy criticism upon
any subject v/ith which 'le or she has not some strong
sympathy.

A rabid Evangelical clergyman might as well attempt a
Life of Shelley as for any one to write upon America or our
own colonies who is not conscious of some bond of attraction
between himself and these countries,

Mr. Froude, in his popular Oceana, went to the other
extreme, as many think, of fulsome flattery, and yet failed to
please everybody.

Possibly the butter was too thickly spread, even for colonial
throats, or perhaps the general howl of indignation arose, in

INTRODUCTION.

the first place, amongst those who were unfortunately, but
inevitably, left out of the account altogetlier, to consume
their dry bread in the background.

However this may be, poor Froude's name in Australasia
is as the red rag to the Colonial bull.

No doubt, in the case of New Zealand, his very pessimistic
account of that country's financial state came too near the
truth to be pleasant.

Although Froude may have rightly considered it his duty
to warn the " old country " of the rotten condition of many
New Zealand investments, there is still something to be
said from the point of view of New Zealand capitalists who
maintain that many investments of a perfectly hond Jkle
character, sufiering merely from temporary depression, were
hopelessly wrecked by the wild panic which set in on the
publication of Occaiia.

America is a country which arouses my admiration, interest
and sympathy.

I went to the Colonies expecting to have all three at least
equally excited, and the result was disappointment; the
practical outcome of this being that the months I had
intended to spend in Australia dwindled down to weeks.

Australia, as a whole, appears to me, I must confess, most
uninteresting ; a second or third rate England, with the sub-
stitution of a " climate " for our own fogs and bitter winds.

Many will say, " But surely Australia is very like America ? "
So it is — as a caricature. It has all the " bumptiousness "

INTRODUCTION.

and self-assertion of America without her originality; all
the energy for money-grubbing without her enthusiastic
ambition to possess what is noblest in art and literature

len the money is made.

I met some few Australians {piir et simple) who were alto-
gether charming, and I trust will remain friends for life,
but I believe they would be the first to indorse my opinion
of the people as a whole.

I spoke to many young Colonial girls on the subject, who
were bewailing the too brief Paradise of a visit to the
"old country," and saw how much those who had
any intelligence deplored the empty, unsatisfactory life
surrounding them.

" It has taken us quite a year to settle back into the old
grooves again," said one young lady to me, speaking of a late
visit with her mother and sisters to England.

"You have so much in the old country, and we have
nothing here but sunshine, and one gets too much even of
that in the long, hot summer days."

It is not so much the absence of art that one deplores in
Australia. That is inevitable in such a young country. It
is the absence of all enthusiasm for it and interest in it.

" The proof of the pudding is in the eating." These
rich people, who will give thousands of pounds to build
palaces to live in, consider five shillings quite " an out-
side price" for any musical or dramatic entertainment.
The consequence of this is, that the best artists have at

T"'^'"^'"^^'^

VUl

INTRODUCTION.

length learnt wisdom, and decline " to go through so
much to do so little," as the child said about learning his
alphabet.

Mary Anderson lately cancelled hor Australian engagu-
ment, and neither Irving nor Ellen Terry seems likely to
make one. A leading Melbourne newspaper, in mentioning
the small success of a really fine pianiste who had been
giving some musical recitals in that city, added in a patroniz-
ing way, " Madame S. is certainly a delightful pianiste, but
we do not care much about music just now in Melbourne ;
we have had enough of it for the present " — as though a
lame man should ^oast of his infirmity, or a blind man rejoice
that he could not see the sun I

The Boston Quartett Society, admitted to be one of the
finest in the world, returned bankrupt from a colonial tour,
although I believe a Christy Minstrel entertainment drew
large houses at the same time.

The enterprising manager of the latter, whom I came
across in Tasmania, boasted of his success to me.

" / know how to fetch them," he said. " None of your
sonata and Beethoven business in Australia. It won't go down
there. Black a man's face and give him a comic song to
sing : that is the only way to draw an audience out here."

I fear there is too much truth in this assertion.

Mechanical head-work, here as elsewhere, is at a terrible
discount. There are only three possibilities open to the
fortune seeker: —

INTRODUCTION.

(1) Exceptional luck or exceptional shrewdness in specu-
lation ;

(2) Strong muscles for labourers' work ; or

(3) An amount of brnin powei ' ' nt would make its mark
anywhere, but would rise to the top of the tree hero, where
the competition of real talent '. of course less ;!ian with us.

Mediocre ability seems to fare mu« h tlie same here as in
England ; that is to say, it pay^ its way and does no more.
Mind or muscle above par win all the prizes.

Were I a man, with strong physical or mental endowments,
I would certainly choose Australia as the best theatre for the
exercise of them; but I would not spend an unnecessary
penny in the country.

I should practise strict economy during my years of
" exile," and the moment I had " made my pile " should
^ake the first ship back to the old country.

This, by the way, is one of the prettiest things about
Australians. Even grey-headed men who have never left their
own shores, young men and maidens, all talk of England as
" home " or the "old country."

If a man of sixty who has never previously set foot outside
of Sydney or Melbc urne, sail for England, it is always spoken
of as his " going home," — a little bit of poetry that fits in
queerly enough with the prose of life out here.

And now, having shown by these remarks, taken in con-
junction with my opening sentences, that I am absolutely and
hopelessly disqualified as a critic on matters colonial, what

INTRODUCTION.

remains for a thoroughly consistent vjoman to do b\it here-
with commence, or rather continue, her criticisms on -the
subject ?

I shall, however, pass with a light hand over a country of
which I saw little, because I cared less, and after tarrying a
while in the far more home-like and congenial atmosphere of
New Zealand, take my readers with me over some beaten
tracks in China, Japan, and Alaska; trusting to the magic of
individual experience to shed some new interest over well
known scenes.

Every one travels over the whole world nowadays. The
unknown in geography has vanished, as time and space seem
to be vanishing in these days of telephones and phonographs.

It is not to what one writes about, but to the way in
which one writes about it, that an author must trust nowadays
for his success.

Verily " there is nothing new under the sun," but every
man and woman can avoid being a bore if he or she will
speak and write simply and truthfully of what each one really
saw or thought ; without straining after fine effects or correct-
ing individual experience by the light of what other people
cx2Ject you to say or think, or to hav^e seen, under any given
circumstances.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

I'AOB

TASMANIA 1

CHAPTER II.

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE 31

CHAPTER III,

NEW ZEALAND 61

CHAPTER IV.

VIA CHINA TO JAPAN 106

CHAPTER V.

JAPAN 133

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

FAOB

.... 187
JAPAN (continued)

CHAPTER VII.

222

A TRIP TO ALASKA

CHAPTER VIII.

OVER THE ROCKIES BY THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY

f-dl

KALEIDOSCOPE :

SHIFTING SCENES FROM EAST TO WEST.

CHAPTER I.

TASMANIA.

Start for Tasmania — Reasons for avoiding Red Sea route — Shaw Savill
line — S.S. Ionic — Cliques on board ship — Conversational diffi-
culties—Entertainments on board — Teneriffe, Santa Cruz, the Peak
— A mild dose of the Tropics— The Cape of Good Hope, Table Rock,
and the Twelve Apostles — Rough weather at sea — Accidents on
board — Poor Jonah ! — Arrival in Hobart Town — Difficulties of a
sea captain's life — A new career suggested for superannuated
captains — Mount Wellington — Agricultural possibilities of Tasmania
— Absence of men— Social life — " Hen Conventions " — Small-pox
outbreak — A honeymoon in quarantine — The domain — Botanical
Gardens— Exquisite flowers — A trip to New Norfolk — Salmon
preserves — Gorgeous birds— On the Huon River — Ta^'manian coal —
Franklin — An enterprising young woman — An intelligent jeweller
— Hobart Cathedral — A subtle sermon— Sir John Franklin In
Afemoriam.

Having made up mv mind to join the friend with whom
I had previously travelled in America, in the Australasian
Colonies, I took passage to Hobart, Tasmania, in one of the
two direct lines which ply between London, Plymouth, and

KALEIDOSCOPE.

(

f J I

New Zealand ; touching at Tenerifife, the Caj)e of Good
Hope, and Hohart en route.

My reason for avoiding the more popular line by the Suez
Canal. lay in the time of year when I was leaving England.

It seemed to me that the Red Sea in the month of
August must suggest a very "thin sheet of tissue paper"
between ourselves and the infernal regions.

There is in fact one ghastly story told (and I have reason
to know, an authentic one) of a certain voyage made by
one of the Orient line of steamers, when no less than nine
unfortunate men and women (including the doctor) suc-
cumbed to the terrible heat of the Red Sea in that month.

This no doubt was a very exceptional case. Still it
seemed wiser to be upon the safe side, and I had no
reason to regret my choice of the " Shaw, Savill and
Albion" line, or the Fate which carried me on board the
Ionic, one of the three steamers chartered by that line
from the White Star Company.

Curiously enough — from the bad sailor point of view —
this second experience of a White Star steamer, landed
me after "forty-two days out" with a perfect immunity
from sea-sickness.

Of the voyage itself, I must confess that my recollections
are scarcely rose-tinted, in spite of this lucky escape.
Cliques are doubtless the invariable and inevitable result
of a long sea-voyage. In fact, any old traveller, gifted
with observation, who has been on board ship even for a

TASMANIA.

week, will be able to gauge pretty accurately tbe probable
" fortuitous combination of atoms of bumanity."

Some trifle — the cboice of a seat at dinner, tbe position
of a deck cbair next to your own, some small civility ex-
changed with a fellow passenger — will suffice to begin an
acquaintance which may develop into a friendship, and is
pretty sure to form the nucleus of a clique. Emerging
after bi'cakfast, one naturally foregathers with those to
whom one has already spoken ; walks the deck with them
and sits near them, when the tropical heat makes walkiuo-
a nuisance.

A few more, perchance, are added to the charmed circle,
and so the much-abused " clique " is formed, and one's
companionship for the voyage becomes a fait accomiM.
Judicious travellers will always take care to make their
deck acquaintances apart from those who sit near them
in tbe dining-saloon, or they will find a forty-two days'
voyage too crucial a test of their conversational powers. It
is quite difficult enough to find material for a hundred
and forty-six meals, without providing " deck padding " in
addition to this.

I remember a dear old lady friend of mine, spending some
months in a Roman 2'>(^'>''Sion, where she had been given the
place of honour next to the lady of the house, requested at
last to be allowed to go down to the bottom of the table
and work her way up again, so as to relievo them both
from the perpetual rcchauffd of old subjects of conversation.

B 2

V I

KALEIDOSCOPE.

h <

(

It seemed to me a daring but grand idea, and might be
imitated with advantage on many ocean trips to the relief
of all parties concerned.

I should suggest a sort of "general post" every week,
and think this would go far to break up some of the too
solid lumps of ship society.

The only practical drawback lies in the question of
stewards' " tips," but this could be easily arranged through
a general dinner and breakfast fund, to be equally divided
at the end of the voyage.

Although "cliques" on board are inevitable, still there
are cliques and cliques.

Because you find special sympathy with certain human
beings in a crowd and prefer their society, it is surely not
necessary to glare at the rest of the world as though their
very existence were an insult to you ; nor to ignore the
courtesies and amenities of life, endeavouring to monopolize
for yourselves or your friends the best ot everything that
may be going in the way of the most comfortable seats at
the various entertainments or xhe most prominent " parts "
in those entertainments.

It is this absence of the courtesy which marks the conduct
of well-bred people towards each other, and upon which
society hangs, that accounts for much of the heart-burning
and many of the disagreeables attending a long voyage with
a mixed company.

Ours was almost exclusively a " colonial mixture," and

TASMANIA.

the behaviour of its component parts did not tend to bias
one in favour of the country beforehand. Here, as every-
where else, the men of course have the best of it. A man
can take shelter from the strife of feminine tongues, in that
city of refuge, the " smoking-room," and there philosophize
at his ease over the small wars that may be raging down
below, even though his own womankind should be foremost
in the fray.

Our kind and genial captain certainly did his best to
"resolve" all the discords, and draw the canopy of peace
around the whole thirty first-class passengers, but his efforts
scarcely met with deserved success.

For the first week, I struggled manfully against the tide,
endeavouring to be pleasant and genial to everybody. After
that, I recognized the hopelessness of the attempt, and
floated with the "English contingent" — almost the only
two thorough gentlewomen in our saloon.

When entertainments, musical, dancing, or dramatic, are
given on board these ocean steamers, it is customary for
the first and second saloon passengers to send reciprocal in-
vitations, and I thought that we might have taken many a
lesson in good manners from the latter.

When tve gave a concert in our saloon, there seemed
to be a general scramble amongst us for the best seats ;
whilst our second-class guests were allowed to wander in
unwelcomed, and seat themselves as best they might, and
often in very inferior places.

kaleidoscopp:.

When they gave an entertainment, all the best seats
were left unoccupied until our arrival ; one of the gentlemen
stood at the entrance to the saloon to receive and welcome
us, and show us to the best places at his disposal. Surely
a practical reminder that money and good manners are
oftentimes divorced !

Having left Plymouth on Saturday, August 13th, we
sighted Teneriffe about 6 A.M. on Thursday, August 18th.
Unfortunately, Santa Cruz, where we dropped anchor, is the
least beautiful part of the island. Orotave, which has become
of late years so popular a health resort, is some miles from
the port, a hilly and beautiful drive over to the other side
of the island.

We landed in small boats, which rocked and tossed in a
way to make one appreciate the calm start from Plj'mouth
and the apparent immovability of the Ionic. Alas ! appear-
ances are deceitful ! Later we became well acquainted with
the rolling powers of our " steady old steamer ! "

At Teneriffe ./e breakfasted at a small hotel, walked
through a hot baking little square, and a dull little hilly
town, where ironmongers and basket and straw hat makers
seemed to "divide the honours" of manufacture.

The public garden looked mournful and deserted, but a
few pretty tropical plants and shrubs held up their heads in
defiance of dust and heat, and brightened the scene.

Our few passengers for Orotave were quickly disembarked,
some provisions taken in, and we returned to our ship with

TASMANIA.

the curious feeling of relief that one experiences on similar
occasions after a few hot tiring hours on shore.

Steaming out of the harbour at noon, we had a grand
view of the famous Peak of Teneriffe looming high above
our heads, and so once more out at sea, and Heigh ho for
the Tropics !

I must say the Tropics treated us very well on this occasion.
We had certainly four or five days of uncomfortable heat,
when the daily walks were abandoned, and deck chairs were
at a premium, but out of the eight days within this region
two or three were positively cool, and I had good reason to
congratulate myself on the choice of route.

On Tuesday, September 4th, we sighted the Cape of Good
Hope, every passenger on board being up at 6 A.M. or earlier,
to watch this most interesting coast-line.

The curiously-shaped mountains known as the " Lion's
Head," the " Twelve Apostles," &c., were in turn recognized
as we steamed into the bay, whilst high above the town
towered the famous Table Rock, whose outline on this perfect
summer's morning lay clear and sharp against a cloudless
blue sky.

Few are so fortunate as we were, in seeing this curious
rock to advantage, for it is generally enveloped in clouds
and mist.

Cape Town lies in horse-shoe form round the bay, and
under shelter of this rock, and must be extremely hot and
relaxing in consequence.

KALEIDOSCOPR.

Far away on the opposite coast stretches the beautiful
deep blue, mysterious-looking range of the Kimberley
Mountains, losing itself in the dim, dim distance.

This also is *^e road to the Diamond Mines, and to the
famous Weinberg, whence comes the Costantia wine. Un-
fortunately we had not time to take this drive, which occupies
from four to five hours.

So we engaged some very shady-looking hansom cabs, and
drove round the dusty hot colonial town, on the Kluft
Koad.

Sunday seems to be strictly observed here, so the town was
empty and forsaken, and we saw little of interest, except
some women dressed in gr'Aud yellow and green silk dresses
with enormous crinolines.

The population appeared to be a motley collection of Dutch
Boers, Hottentots, and English.

The " west end " of Cape Town consists of some pretty
villa-like houses, stretching far away to the left, as you face
the harbour from the town.

The heat on the morning of our visit was intense,
although it was only spring-time here. If the summer heat
is in any sort of proportion to it, it must be unbearable. I
find, however, that the seasons are almost as variable and
changeable out here as in Old England, and the experience
of one year seems no criterion for the next.

Returning to our ship about noon, we sailed for Hobart,
eighteen or nineteen days without further sight of land.

TASMANIA.

After leaving the Capo the weather became rough, cold,
and dreary. The constant rolling of the ship is most
irritating and trying to the nerves, even when it has no
worse results.

To perform a sort of impromptu " SAVord dance " amongst
bags and portmanteaus in your cabin three or four times
a day does not tend to raise the spirits or calm the
nerves.

White suits, straw hats, tropical garments in general were
laid aside, and every available rug and wrap produced. It
is difT ult to make people believe or remember that nearly
every sea-voyage has a greater proportion of cold than hot
days. Nothing is more difficult than to realize when you are
very hot that you will ever again feel very cold, and con-
sequently many people who should know better, start ill
prepared to meet the biting winds that are sure to come
before the voyage is ended.

Four or five little unprotected children, going to Hobart
under charge of the second saloon stewardess, suffered
terribly in this way, and would have suffered more had this
kind woman not begged and borrowed flannels and shawls
from the passengers in their behalf.

They were being sent on to join their father a'^d mother
(the former an English officer) in Tasmania, and I suppose
the relations who packed them off must have had rather
vague geographical notions. Probably they had heard that
Hobart had a fine warm climate, and never remembered the

KALEIDOSCOPE.

¥ ■■'.

ill

bitter cold of the very southerly route taken by this direct
line of steamers.

It was very quamt to sec the youngest of the flock, a
sweet, dark-eyed little witch of four years old, trailing
about the deck in a " grown-up " Shetland shawl which
made quite a long train for her. She was the pet and
darling of the whole ship, and a terrible little flirt Avithal,
but we all succumbed to the witchery of her dark eyes
and the bribery of her kisses.

Even our most stiff and pompous old Colonial (a very
mine of wealth if you could buy him at your price and
sell him at his own) unbent when this tiny sorceress
clambered on his knee, and I actually heard him one day
giving her a true and faithful account of the "little pigs
going to market."

The old gentleman had been somewhat of a "gay
Lc hario " in younger days, and lived upon this reputa-
tir taking great pains to hide the dilapidations of Time
un< r a very lively and devoted manner to the fair sex.
So , was rather hard upon him, when the little puss, in
ret'i .n for the history of the pigs, put one caressing tiny
hand upon the old beau's few remaining grey hairs, and
said, in a patronizing way, " Your hair is hcginning to

groiv

This voyage brought the usual casualties when the
rough weather had fairly set in. One afternoon was
especially disastrous. One young lady was thrown violently

TASMANIA.

down against the bulwarks by a tremendous wave, having
her cheek cut completely open just below the Hne of the
eye. A lad)''s maid was knocked down by the same wave,
but escaped with a severe sprain; and a young man
standing near them also fell, and was badly strained in
the back.

Thpre seems to be a special Providence over children
on board ship, but one little girl of five years old had
her head cut open by tumbling down the " companion
way," one evening when we were all sitting quietly at
dinner.

By far the saddest and most serious catastrophe, how-
ever, happened to a young Scotch lady on her way to
New Zealand to help a married brother and his wife in
bringing up a large young family. Paralysis of the optic
nerve came on quite suddenly one afternoon, a fortnight
after leaving England ; and for the rest of the voyage
she had to remain a prisoner in her cabin, with eyes
thickly bandaged, and the "dead light" fastened down day
and night. Of course we took it in turns to try and
relieve the tedium of her existence under these distressing
circumstances, but talking in pitch darkness is not an easy
matter, and those who are sensitive to " atmospheres " will
find their conversational powers at a very low ebb if they
are ever forced to make the experiment.

The weather continued so determinedly rough and bad
that we began to look with suspicion upon the only cleric on

,^T

f ''.

KALEIDOSCOPE.

i I

board — a very harmless young curate, going out to the
colonies for two years in search of health — who gained the
sobriquet of " Jonah " by resenting so deeply the captain's
time-honoured joke, of being on the look-out for a whale to
devour him, if the waves were not soon "ruled a little
straighter."

Poor Jonah ! He was a most kind-hearted and con-
scientious man, in spite of some little peculiarities, and an
overflowing sense of the importance of the priesthood.

It was with real sorrow that I learned some months later
that he had fallen a victim to typhoid fever contracted
at Melbourne. He died in the general hospital at Dunedin in
New Zealand, without one creature near who knew anything
of him. The curiously unfortunate part of the business being
that I was actually in Dunedin at the time he lay there
so ill, and was spending a day with the Bishop ; but by some
ill chance did not happen to speak of the hospital, nor
hear that a fellow countryman and fellow passenger was
dying there.

On the early morning of September 23rd, we sighted
at last, the Tasmanian coast having been delayed two days
by the strong head winds we had encountered.

Tasmania has a most beautiful, broken up coast-line, and
our binoculars were in constant request all day long as
we rounded the island, steaming up Storm Bay by the Iron
Pot Lighthouse, to the mouth of the Derwent aud the Bay of
Hobart.

TASMANIA.

Unfortunately we did not ca&t anchor till 9 P.M., when
darkness had come on, and so we missed the beautiful
approach through the harbour. To the New Zealand
passengers, who would have no later opportunity of seeing
the harbour, the loss was specially aggravating.

As I was travelling alone to join my friend, the captain had
taken me under his kindly care, and promised to see me safely
landed. So I let the other passengers for Tasmania land
alone, with the eye of faith firmly fixed upon the captain's
cabin. Arriving in port means a very busy time for the Lead
ol' the ship — pilot and agents to be interviewed, innumerable
letters to be written and despatched, orders to be given,
instructions to be received. It seems to me that a captain
requires eyes all round his head, and an extra pair of hands
to get through all he has to do, and often ^i such limited
time.

After a wide experience, I have come to the conclusion
that to be captain of one of these important lines of ocean
steamers is to hold about as difficult a " hand " as can be
dealt to one in the game of life. A man who has the
enthusiasm of his calling and an unquenchable love of the
ocean may find some compensation in these, but on the
whole the life must be extremely monotonous, whilst the
responsibilities and possible worries and disagreeable risks
(apart from risk of life) seem to me out of all proportion
to the rewards offered.

If things go wrong, the captain is abused. If one pas-

',r

r
11

I i 1

n II

i >

KALEIDOSCOPE.

senger plays practical jokes upon another, the latter
"complains to the captain."

When the men quarrel iu the smoking-room, or the
women in the saloon, the captain is expected to lend a
sympathetic ear to the tale of woe from either side.

If he speak more to one. lady than another, the rest
resent it ; or, worse still, some 7nan (who probably would
like to be in his place) resents it still more strongly, and
possibly lays a formal complaint before the owners of the
ship.

If the captain happens to be musical, and offers to sing
or play for the entertainment of the passengers, there are
always grumblers, who "wish to goodness he would stick
to his business, and remember he is there to navigate the
ship and not to amuse or trouble his head about the
passengers."

If, on the contrary, he leaves them entirely to their

own devices, " he is a selfish old bear, and Captain

of the was fifty times pleasanter ; and they will never

sail in his ship again."

The character of the captain of one of these large ships
is as fragile and as easily tarnished as that of a woman, or
a clergyman.

Once let him become unpopular, and his employers grow
dissatisfied. The most trivial and unjust complaints will
then receive a hearing, and the risk of loss of employment
may stare a man in the face at any moment after years

TASMANIA.

of honest and devoted service in the interest of any given
line. No doubt this is looking on the dark side of the
picture, but the shadows exist and are very real.

To be a dissenting minister at the mercy of a carping
congregation doubtless is equally risky, and certainly there
is one avenue open to the captain if he be a man of any
literary ability. A long life of observation on a passenger
steamer should be a glorious school in which to graduate
as a novelist. The dramatis j^o'^onm are there ready to
hand, constantly passing before his eyes in ever-shifting
combinations; whilst the whole play is changed, and an
entirely new programme pubUshed, at least three or four
times a year.

Hobart, or Hobart Town as it is more correctly called,
is beautifully situated on a tongue of land running straight
down to the bay between a long range of hills on either
side. The snow-capped peaks of Mount Wellington (4,000
to 5,000 feet high) rise behind the town, and form one of
the most striking features of the landscape.

The town itself is small, sleepy, colonial, and unfinished
looking, but many of the houses are of stone, and there
are some fine buildings amongst them.

The cathedral, as also the new deanery, is built of stone,
and when the nave is finished, and a spire or tower added,
will look very imposing.

The Dean of Hobart (Dundas) and his hospitable wife
told me much of the life at present going on in "Sleepy

III

il: '

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Hollow," as it is called, an<J through their kindness I was
able to meet many of the present inhabitants.

The prospects of Tasmania seem rather gloomy just now,
and trade is said to be at a very low ebb. The palmy
days of the colony died out when the convict station
of Port Arthur was abolished. Before that time. Govern-
ment money to the amount of from £1,000 to £2,000 a
week was spent here, whereas nowadays half the tradesmen
seem to be bankrupt.

One of the most noticeable characteristics of Hobart is the
almost total " extinction of man " there. I suppose sons are
born to Tasmanian fathers and mothers as to other people,
but they must leave their native island very early, and
doubtless drift into the wider stream of Australian life, which
is close at hand for them.

And so the evil acts and reacts : commercial depression
sends the youth and energy out of the colony to find more
congenial soil elsewhere, and the absence of young and
enterprising blood increases the dciiression in trade.

Tasmania is so gifted in climate, and rich in natural
productions of the soil, that one can only trust some fresh
impetus may be given to its agricultural trade at any rate.
Moreover, this gifted island possesses in Mount Bischoff the
biggest tin mine in the world.

Vast quantities of fruit, especially of plums and apples,
are sent hence yearly to New Zealand and Australia, and this
beautiful island might become a fruit and vegetable garden

TASMANIA.

17.

on a very large scale, for its surrounding colonial neighbours,
if sufficient inducement could be given to the sons of the
soil to remain and till it, instead of emigrating elsewhere
in search of a quicker road to wealth.

This fact of the enormous majority of women over men
struck me very forcibly at various " at homes " which I
attended during a three or four weeks' detention in Hobart,
owing to small-pox having broken out in Launceston the
day after I landed. I have often counted from forty
to fifty women, many of them young and pretty, to a
proportion of three men, of whom one would probably be
the host.

The lamentable social consequence of this is to make the
matrimonial market as " tight " here as it is at home ; and
one hears quite as much of scheming mothers, designing
daughters, and "run after young men." These latter must
have a very good time in Tasmauian society, but Nemesis
no doubt is upon them during Jarmary and February, when
Hobart wakes up to a brief " midsummer madness." Then
the harbour is full of ships, men-of-war, bringing middies
and lieutenants in tlieir train. The hotels drive a short but
thriving trade. The boarding-houses are full to overflowing,
and no doubt the Tasmanian young ladies indenniify them-
selves by judicious flirtations with their numerous admirers
for the humiliations of the past.

There are some beautiful excursions to be made within
twenty or thirty miles of Hobart, but few people remain long

mmemm

IvALKIDOSCOPE.

enough to see more than the beautiful harbour, and perhaps
Fern Hollow, a lovely dell within four miles of the town, v/herc
many get their first glimpse of the exquisite tree ferns so
universal in Australia, and one of the chief redeeming
points of that colony.

Small-pox is naturally dreaded out here, where as yet it
has made comparatively little progress, and the quarantine
regulations both in Australia and New Zealand became so
strict when the first rumours of the disease in Tasmania
spread that we were virtually kept prisoners there as hope-
lessly as the convicts of old. For who would care to take ship
for Melbourne or Sydney, with the prospect of a fortnight in
(piarantine in one or other harbour, even allowing tliat the
disease itself did not break out on board ?

I knew one enterprising bride and bridegroom who had
been married in ^[elbournc the day before I reached
Tasmania, and had come thither for tlieir honeymoon. The
husbaml was employed in some large business house in
^lelboTirne, and his days were numbered, so he and his wife
actually sailed into quarantine to spend the last fortnight of
their honeymoon, ratlier than wait for the chance of the
quarantine being raised. It would at least show his em-
ployers that he had done his best to return to his duties.
Surely such zeal and consci jp.tiousness deserved a better
reward than a (piarantine honeymoon !

Ther,) is a bright sitle to most misfortunes, and the
small-i»Dx outbreak wliich, after all, was mercifully limited

-•it.

. i

TASMANIA.

11)

and soon suppressed, gave me the opportunity of seeing
much more of Tasmania than I should otherwise have
done.

The " Domain," a beautiful stretch of park-like ground
Avhere the Governor's house is situated, slopes down to the
lovely Botanical Gardens, where trees, shrubs, and flowers
grow in a profusion and size unequalled in my experience
since Californian days of travel.

Some of the cinerarias measured two inches in diameter.
Wistaria trailing its lovely French grey blossoms over trellis
and wall; Bougainvillia with its many-shaded, yellow-
centred bloom, that always stirs one's heart with suggestions
of the East ; the " Gloria pea " (a sort of majestic fuchsia
growing in large bushes here) ; and a number of New Zealand
flowering shrubs,— all beautiful in form and colour, but many
of them strangers to me in those days, before I had set foot
in that far-away and yet most home-like colony.

After the "eternal gum-tree," one of the most common
and characteristic of the Tasmanian trees is the silver wattle.
It has feathery dark green leaves, and lovely yellow fluffy
blossoms like tiny balls. Beautiful heathers line the roads
all over the island, and were now in full bloom in every
shade of cream, white, salmon, and crimson ; such heathers as
we at home keep in our greenhouses in tiny pots, and cherish
with most tender care.

Every one visiting Hobart goes to New Norfolk, on the
beautiful Dorwent River, either by boat i<v steamer, or l)y

c 2

KALEIDOSCOI'K.

ri \

tmin iuul coach. We chose the latter route. The railway
runs below the Botanical Gardens, au<l then along the line of
the river, giving one every chance of seeing the scenery, for
Tasmanian trains are very slow. The views here are not so
much grand as lovely and peaceful, reminding one often of
the nooks and exquisite reaches of our own Thames.

On leaving the train, a beautiful ten-mile drive over a
hoather-lined road, through woods of silver wattle and
eucalyptus, deposited us at the " Star and Garter," a quiet
little inn in the pretty township of New Norfolk. After
early dinner, we climbed a hill to get a view over the river
towards the snow-clad peaks of Mount Field, in the far
distance, and, scrainbling down on the other side, passed a
pretty little stone Roman Catholic church, just built and
not yet consecrated. Close by was a cosy, low stone house,
whose owner was taking a quiet siesta in his veranda. He
told us a good deal about the fisheries, and the late experiments
to introduce salmon into Tasmania. Seven miles from New
Norfolk are the salmon-ponds where the attempt has been
made, but so far with little success.

The salmon either get away down to the sea, or so com-
pletely change their nature in the.se waters as to be no
longer recognizable as salmon, becoming quite coarse and
uneatable. Attempts to supplement Nature out here do not
seem successful on the whole, or else the Acclimatization
Society have been singularly unfortunate in their choice.
Sparrows arc not indigenous to the soil, ;ind the kind

TASMANIA.

railway
3 line of
lery, for
•e not so
often of

) over a
ttle and
' a quiet
:. After

the river
1 the far

passed a
built and
one house,
xnda. He
cperiments
from New
t has been

•#

brought over here have certainly grown and thriven, but
have become scourges instead of scavengers.

It is the same with the rabbits— that jirolific curse of
the colonies ! It seems to be a very dangerous experiment
either to introduce a new species of animal into a colony
or to exterminate an old one.

In either case, it is impossible to discount beforehand all
the dangers and drawbacks that may follow such a course
until it has been taken and the mischief is irremediable.
This appears to me the weak point in Pasteur's scheme of
poison. Isolated experiments can never be conclusive. The
fact that certain animals or insects on certain occasions have
abstained from taking the poison is no absolute proof that
all useful animals and insects will continue to do so upon
all occasions, when the field of experiment is measured by
thousands of acres — not a small inclosure of ground specially
set apart for the purpose.

Moreover, even in these scientific days, there may be
insects and birds doing useful and invaluable work in the
world of Nature that we know not of, and shall only
appreciate properly when some ill-considered experiment of
ours may have exterminated them from the field of their
labour.

Talking of birds reminds me of my childish feeling of
pleasure and amazement in seeing parroquets and cocka-
toos flying from tree to tree, flashing their gorgeous colours
in the sunshine, in this beautiful island.

KALEIDOSrol'K.

•t

' "i

All birds lifr.e brilliant colouring here. The magpies are
much larger than ours, looking moro like huge crows with
white wings. The robins have such deep flame-coloured
breasts, putting their poor little English brothers quite in tlie
shade. The " fire-tail," a sober-coloured dark little bird with
exquisite crimson feathers lu the tail alone, is common
enough here, but strikes one with an ever-growing sense of
delight, as he flashes from tree to tree with liis little fire-
signal at liis back.

One of the more ambitious and most beaixtiful expeditions
from Hobart is to go up the Huon River by steamer, returning
next day by coach. As this involves sleeping out, few people
care to do it, but it will well repay the small exertion, and is
by no means an expensive expedition as colonial prices go.

We left Hobart at 8.S0 A.Ji. on board the Cygnet, one of
several small steamers which ply between that tow^n and the
various landing-stages along the Huon.

After taking in all the beauties of the harbour, which we
had missed upon the night of our arrival, I could turn my
attention to more prosaic matters, and accepted the engineer's
invitation to go down to the engine-rooms and watch an
experiment for burning anthracite coal at twelve shillings the
ton and a product of Tasmania, instead of paying twenty-
four shillings for bituminous Sydney coal. My cicerone said
that the firemen were unjustly prejudiced against the use of
the native coal. No doubt the latter gives extra work, and
the heat thrown out by it seemed small out of all comparison

TASMANIA.

■with the amount given ont by the more expensive article;
in wliich case I sliould doubt the final economy of the
experiment, even allowing for the saving of 50 per cent,
on the original outlay.

The Hobart climate in October (spring) seems quite as
variable as our own. Sunshine and shadow succeed each
other as quickly as in our English April, and the month
here certainly deserves its name of " chill October." Last
year, I am told that when the first stone of the now deanery
was laid, at exactly the same season, the heat was intense and
almost unbearable.

Be that as it may, we had a very cold trip through
D'Entrecasteaux Channel to the mouth of the river, and
thence to Franklin, a pretty township, situated on the hills
and surrounded by lovely mountains. Here we had arranged
to sleep, and take the coach next day for the return journey.

The chief inn (a very primitive one) was redolent of paint,
and evidently in the bands of workmen, so w^e put up at a
small temperance hotel, and my only experience of such an
establishment was really a very comfortable one. Our host
and hostess, young married people, sat down with us at tea and
at breakfast next day, as also a young man living with them,
who was police clerk to the district. The latter gave us an
amusing account of a fellow passenger in our steamer. She
had come on board at the first stopping- place after Hobart,
and we had been attracted by the very gay, fantastically
trimmed Tam-o'-Shanter straw hat which she wore. Later

•SrfK

i I

KALKIDOSCttl'K.

on, after loaviug Sliipwriglit's Point, slie luul the boat of
the steamer lowered, jumped into it, and began sculling
herself across to the other side (a very considerable distance),
and in the teeth of a very strong current. The captain told
us she had done this every day of her life for twelve years
past, carrying the post and any parcels that might arrive for
the little homestead where she lives. The uncle and aunt, in
whose house she abides, own one of the largest orcliards in
Tasmania, and must be people of substance. This enter-
prising young woman seems to be a " Jack (or Jill) of all
trades." Tn addition to the more domestic accomy)lishments
of cookery and dairy tending, she can carpenter, sow, reap,
plough, and " do as much work out of doors in one day as
any two men." Moreover, she will ride, drive, or row twenty
or thirty miles to a ball at any time ; dance all night, and
return in the same way next morning. Certainly, she
looked very mncli voather-beaten, but is said to have been
rather good-lool.in'j in younger days, before this mania for
hard work came on.

Next morning we rose early, and were out by 7 A.M. for
a stroll amongst the beautiful hills, and were quite sorry
to leave the pretty little primitive village when the coach
came round for us at 9 A.M.

We drove through the pretty township of Victoria, which
is more shut in than Franklin, and must be hotter and less
healthy as a summer resort, I imagine. Then we followed
the river's side for some miles, until gradually the very

TASMANIA.

excellent road began to ascend, and by degrees we reached
a considerable elevation. Here we passed the jircttiest part
of the road, where the tree fern grows in great profusion,
and to an immense height.

Our host, Mr. Webster, turned out to be also our
Jehu, and wonderfully well he drove, being one of several
brothers of the same name who "boss" this coach lino
on the Huon road, and have houses of similar harmless
entertainment along the whole extent of it. The road,
which measures twenty-three miles from Victoria to Hobart,
was made by Government at an outlay of £28,000.

After lunch, we drove on to a gradual elevation of 1,500
feet, getting every now and then beautiful peeps of the bay
and the surrounding mountains. Then began the descent into
the town, and by 3 P.M. we were once more at Hobart Post
Office, where the coach stops to discharge prisoners. These
coaches are very primitive machines, with black leather
curtains which cover either side, but which can be reefed
or let down at pleasure. Inside the coach, however, it is
impossible to get any good view, and it is therefore most
necessary to insure the box seat beforehand.

If any one, having one whole day to spend in this lovely
island, asked me how to make the best use of the time,
I should advise a morning drive to the Cornelian Bay
Cemetery, by the side of the Derwent, and commanding
a magnificent view of the river, bay, and surrounding
mountains.

KALEIDOSCOPE.

1 .

■!

I i

For the afternoon, I should recommend a drive of ten
miles, partly along the Hiion road, already mentioned, to
a place on the sea-shore, called Brown's River, from the
stream that winds through a rocky ravine, and empties
itself ifito the sea at tliis point, and where the most exquisite
shells of every size, hue, and shape, can be picked up on
the shore, even by the most lazy conchologist.

I had made friends with an intelligent jeweller in Hobart,
to whom I had taken a ring that required some small repair,
and as he has travelled all over the Australasian colonies
before anchoring for a time in Hobart, his conversation
and experiences were w^ell worth hearing.

Having gathered from some casual words that he was
convinced of the truths of spiritualism (as it is called), I was
somewhat surprised when he handed me a thick book full of
newspaper " cuttings," describing the " excellent lectures
given by Lieutenant Rose (the man in question) to expose
spiritualism."

It seemed a paradox that a man, himself a spiritualist,
should spend his life in giving lectures to expose his own
beliefs.

He admitted the force of my remark, but said quietly that
it woidd never pay to lecture in favour of the creed. There
was so much prejudice against the subject, that, on one
occasion, when through some misunderstanding he was
announced as an advocate of it, the scene of confusion was
terrible. The whole lecture-hall *vas converted into a bear-

TASMANIA.

garden, oranges, rotten eggs, and even chairs, flying gaily
around ; and it was not until the audience was assured that
Mr. Ross intended to " curse " instead of to " bless," so far as
their lite noir was concerned, that they consented to give
him any sort of a hearing,

" I was not likely to lecture in favour of spiritualism after
that sort of thing," he said, very frankly.

My denunciation of the dishonesty of his present practice
seemed to fall like water off a duck's back.

" Yes, of course, I know from experience that it is true
enough," he said ; " but I am bound to make a living, and they
won't listen to anything else. Besides, there is a good deal
of trickery and fraud amongst some of the professional
mediums, so it is fair enough to expose them."

He seemed unable to see the dishonesty of leaving his
audience to infer that he believed there was nothing hut
trickei •• and deception in the matter.

I wt .ider how much more of the " exposure of spiritualism "
may be done on similar lines ?

To turn to more orthodox matters, I went to the Cathedral
one Sunday morning, and heard a clever but rather in-
trepid sermon from Bishop Sandford on the words " One
Lonir

He attacked the subject of the mirai^les, and showed an
ingenuity in dealing with them which is a necessary clerical
attribute in these days of in iversal scepticism on all matters,
mundane or divine.

KALEIDOSCOrE.

He tried to prove that the miracles were no reversing of
the order of Nature, but rather, as it were, pushing Nature
back from what was unnatural into the natural groove again.
For example, in the miracle of raising the dead, " life is the
law of Nature, therefore Christ only restored the natural law
in raising Lazarus from the dead."

This struck me as more ingenious than fair, f r ^ ' 'y
death is equally a law of Nature as we know her, and we
cannot logically go beyond human experience in speaking of
natural laws ?

Nothing daunted, the Bishop next attacked the mii'acle
of turning water into wine at the marriage feast in Cana
of Galilee: —

" This was no new process — only a recognized process
performed instantly instead of through long weeks :.,nd
months. Water is being turned into wine every day.
The water nourishes the roots of the vine, making ♦^.li
gi'apes grow, and from them is expressed the wine wt
drink."

Or, again, with regard to the miracle of feeding the
five thousand with the five small loaves : —

"V/e cast grain into the ground, and God gives the
increase Avhich we gather at the harvest. The proc s
was only accelerated when the loaves were miraculoi; y
increased to meet the wants of the multitude."

This seems terribly far-fetched, iind i>^ a fair specimen
of the specious clerical argumeald of n. i* dly luuuly and

■i««Mr"

TASMANIA.

honest mind, compelled by the spirit of the age to find an
excuse or explanation for wliat had surely better be lett
to the domain of faith.

I felt much more sympathy with him at the end of the
discourse, when he spoke very humbly and beautifully of
the difficulties of the problems of life to all thinking
minds.

" The scientific men call upon us to choose between
power and love in our Creator. If He is omnipotent, He
is cruel : if He is love, He is not omnipotent."

As we are not able with our present powers to grasp
even the whole meaning of Nature, surely we cannot
expect by their aid to understand and search out the
inscrutable wisdom of the Creator.

Therefore it is not illogical to say, "We will hcUcvc in
His love and omnipotence in spite of appearances."

There was a straightforward manliness in the way he
faced and disposed of the difficulty at the last that came
like a breath of strong, wholesome fresh air after the
artificial atmosphere of subtle theological suggestion.

One of the chief personal interests in my visit to
Tasmania lay in the fact that we are here surrounded by
recollections of the governorship of Sir John Franklin,
Avhose grandchildren are amongst my valued friends.

There is a very fine bronze statue of Sir John in the
public square in Hobart, called after his name. The long,
low house where he lived (before the present grand new

'il

,; •

: i-

KALEIDOSCOl'K

residence existed) was pointed out to me by the Dean,
and is situated almost opposite the present deanery. A
whole village on the Huon River has been called after
t]>t: famous explorer ; and the setting sun of my Tasmanian
ek|: ;es lights up the face of this great man, whose

name . ..ines forth through the ever-lengthening years with
as bright a memory and as keen a sadness as in the days
when hope deferred at last died out a lingering death,
and men knew that they should see his face no more
" until the Sea gives up her dead."

CHAPTER II.

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

S.S. Flara — A terrible storm — A shipwreck — Kelative value cif cowa
and men — Sydney IlarLour by muonliglit — A word for the harbour
idolaters— Town of Sydney— Climate— Governnumt House and the
Gardens — A celebrated y^/rtHisfc— Successi'ul barristers — Sydney
House of Parliament — An undignified wrangle — Ainise versus Satire
— A Speaker's despair — Bed and blanket obstruction — Sir Henry
Parkcs — A modern Antony — Excursions from Sydney — South Head
Lighthouse — Paramatta — Lane Cove River — A week in the Blue
Mountains— Katoomba— The famous " Zig-Zag "— Govett's Leap and
Wentworth Falls— Flora of the mountains— Comparison between
social conditions of Sydney and Melbourne — Colonial servants —
Lady Stawell's experience on this point — Two days on a fruit farm —
Canning operations — AYater supply — A charming host— A Sydney
theatre— The Colonial "Ellen Terry "—Sydney University— A
magnificent Commemoration Hall — Art in Sydney— A happy
device— Melbourne — Pul)lic buildings — Moral atmospheres — Victoria
politics— Pictures in ^Ielbt)urne— Colonial Clubs— Outskirts of the
town — A dance on board the Ndsor, — Melbourne society — The
"almighty dollar " in Colonial coin— An eccentric choir— Terrible
roads— Melbourne climate— Consumptive patients— "Value of first
impressions— Contrast between America and Australia— True value
of money.

Having waited patiently for nearly a month in Tasmania,
in the vain hope that the small-pox scare might subside and
the quarantine regulations be at least suspended, I hardened
my heart at length, and took ship for Sydney in the Ts--

! ■'

F^i !i

■I: t

>i il

KALEIDOSCOPE.

maniaii Steam Navigation boat Flora, deterniiued to risk
the chance of quarantine sooner than spend the rest of my
natural life in Hobart Town, as there seemed to be every
chance of my doing.

As no steamers that had touched the Tasmanian coast were
allowed to enter either Australian or New Zealand ports,
postal communication was deficient, if not impossible ; and,
rnoreover, I had not received a line from the friend I had
come so far to join, and felt naturally anxious to know where
the meeting could be effected.

My last letters from her had come from Sydney, where
I pictui-ed her awaiting my arrival. It turned out that,
weary of the delay, she had gone off to New Zealand, but
I had no idea of this fact at the time, or might possibly
never have seen the Australian Colonies at all.

As it was, we came in for one of the most tremendous
gales that had visited even the stormy Australian coast
for many years.

A well-known steamer, The Cheviot, of the Howard Smith
line, went down in the storm at 9 PM. on the night after
we loft Hobart, with a loss of thirty-seven passengers out
of sixty on board, and most of the officers and crew.
The wreck occurred just outside Melbourne Heads.

The stern of the vessel was lifted by the storm so vio-
lently out of the water, that the " racing " of the propeller
ended by snapping it off, and the vessel drifted on to the
rocks, where she was cleft con)plctcly in two i)arts.

I mimnimmmmti^fmmKfrw

SYDNEY AND MELBOUllNE.

Her bows struck the rocks first, and all the steerage
passengers were lost. The saloon passengers and the
captain were saved.

The latter behaved splendidly after the disaster had oc-
curred, but was considered foolhardy for putting out to sea
on such a night.

In the court of inquiry that was afterwards held, special
mention was made of the fact that various other vessels ad-
vertised to sail that evening had not left the harbour— notably
one of the Union Steam Navigation boats, the Waimrapa.
The counsel for the captain quietly explained this away
by saying, « That ship had some very valuable animals on
board," which must have provoked a smile even on that
solemn occasion.

The explanation, however, is more reasonable and less
cynical than would appear at first sight.

We must remember that valuable cattle, being stowed on
the lower deck, might easily be washed overboard in a sea
not heavy enough to endanger the ship herself or the lives
of the passengers or cr6w.

Our own captain's boldness was justified by success, and
the Flora reached Sydney Harbour in safety on the evening
of Thursday, October 20th, forty-eight hours out from
Hobart, having made one of the quickest passages on
record, but earned the undying hatred of most of us who
sailed in her, for one naturally identifies a ship with the
amount of misery sufiered whilst on board her.

KALEIDOSCOPE,

^' J

We steamed into Sydney Harboui' and cast anchor in
Watson's Bay between 7 P.M. and 8 P.M., too late for the
dayhght ; but one scarcely regretted it, for a full moon and
a starlit sky lent a beautiful and more poetic setting to the
8cene, and the numerous coloured lights from the masses of
rigging on all sides gave a fairy-like look to the famous
harbour.

This harbour (from later experience) strikes me as more
home-like, in spite of its great expanse, than any similar
scenery on such a grand scale,

Quebec, for example (magnificent as is the harbour view),
seems much less " friendly " as our German neighbours would
say — a panorama to be gazed at with admiration, whereas
you take Sydney Harbour straight into your heart and love
it for once and for ever.

The low-lying hills around, the numerous small bays, the
lovely green islands dotted all over the broad bosom of th3
harbour, form a truly magnificent sight ; and yet you can take
it in without effort, and feel as though you could quickly grow
familiar with all the beautiful bends and turns of the sea.

This, I think, must be the secret of the almost pt ssionate
devotion of all Australians for this favoured spot.

Other harbours may be as lovely, some few may be as
grand, but it would be difficult to name one that combines
tlie magnificent and the lovable in any like proportion.

Of course the overwhelming admiration from the practical
and naval point of view arises from the fact that no other

^mr^f^^mmm^

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

harbour in the world has such depth of water and can boast
of such easy navigation.

Even Melbourne does full justice to Sydney on this score,
and reluctantly admits that she has nothing to compare with
the world-famed " harbour."

" But this is an accident of nature," adds the jealous sister
colony, " Look what we have made out of our possibilities
compared with the provincial, dead-alive look of the capital
of New South Wales."

Small wonder that " the harbour " should be the boast,
the pride, and the joy of every man, woman, and child in
Sydney The possibilities of enjoyment connected with it
are countless. From the "Circular Quay" you can take
steamers for trips in every direction, spend an hour or two
rambling through somo lovely wooded dell, or walking over a
road that commands grand views of wood and sea, and so gain
some further spot from which another steamer will bring you
back to the hot dusty city.

There is not a beautiful spot in all this vast stretch of
beauty that cannot be reached by steamer in times varying
from ten to sixty minutes, whilst excursions to the heads and
all round the harbour are of frequent occurrence, and occupy
some two or three hours of a delicious summer's day or still
more romantic moonlight uin-ht.

It requires some experience of the stifling, enervating heat
of a Sydney spring or summer in order to appreciate fully the
enormous relief of one of these harbour trips, with its cool

D 2

KALEIDOSCOPE.

1 1

soft breezes, in exchange for the hot dusty pavements of the
hilly Sydney streets.

I am loth to leave the beauty and charm of Sydney
Harbour, feeling there is so little else about the place that I
can honestly admire. But after all, Sydney is Sydney Har-
bour. All ih i fashionable suburbs of the town are built upon
its shores, and the dirty, dusty old town itself need rarely be
visited by the happy possessors of the many charming
houses that lie in every direction upon the surrounding
hills.

The town of Sydney is much scattered, and built upon
numerous hills. One is always going full pelt down one
steep hill only to find an equally steep one to be mounted on
the other side. The dust when I was there was perfectly
appalling, and as a hot north-east wind blew continually, the
charms of the Australian climate did not strike me at once
with any great force, and I thought the World had spoken
with little charity and less knowledge in reproaching Mrs.
Barry so bitterly for finding any flaw in Sydney weather. In
spring, I know from experience that the Sydney climate is
extrem-^ly trying to a new-comer. The heat during the
summer months is of course intense, and during the winter
there are often weeks of continuous rain. Naturally, you are
told that the weather is " most exceptional " at such times ;
but I found, after several months' experience, that colonial
weather was invariably " exceptional " when it was not
perfect. Writing under the fog-bound misery of a London

t| i

SYDNEY AND MELnOURNE.

January, one would liail even Sydney heat and dust with
delight, but it is as well to realize that cloudless skies and
brilliant sunshine must be paid for like everything else in
this world — at least in Australia.

The Botanical Gardens which run down to the water, and
occupy a considerable line along the harbour, are most ex-
tensive and beautiful, but not very well kept as a whole. It
was amusing to notice how much more care was bestowed
upon those parts of the grounds which surrounded Govern-
ment House, built at the top of the gardens, overlooking the
harbour.

Spring is scarcely the best time to see tropical gardens.
Many of the shrubs and plants are dried up by the early heat,
whilst others, more prudent, have not yet attempted to bud.
One of the chief trees about here is the Queensland fig, a
large spreading tree, with stiff green leaves in clusters, and
little hard brown balls, which develop into small red-coloured
figs, rounder and smaller than our green fig.

The pleasantest fruit I have tasted out here is tJ,- loquari.
It is a small, round, yellow, and slightly acid fruit, aud grows
in clusters with long narrow green leaves to the stems.

The passion fruit which is so universally appreciated is
far too luscious for my taste, and I grew to dislike even the
perfume of it.

I came across a celebrat<xl ■pianistc in Sydney — a younc
French lady married to a German-Australian. She "ives
music-lessons, has a large dicnUlc amongst the Sydney

imiiilj^on

KALEIDOSCOPE.

*' upper ten," and has a novel and excellent method of
teaching.

She forms a cluss of five pupils, and divides an hour and
forty nuuutes anion^.st them. Each girl ai>propriatcs twenty
minutes of this time, and each plays the same study or the
same movement, whilst the other four listen and profit by the
mistakes and instruction of their friends.

The plan seems to answer admirably, judging by the lady's
success, and as she manages to find time also to brin • up
three little children (all under two and a half years c ),

she must have immense energy, and more physical strength
than one can well imagine with so small a frame.

She played to mo, on several occasions, selections from
Beethoven, Gottschalk, Chopin, &c., with equally brilliant
and unerring touch, and, apart from the charm of the music,
it was quite a pretty sight to see the tiny hands flashing
over the piano.

Marvelling at the many prizes w^on so early in life by
Mr. Bertram Wise, late Attorney-General for New South
Wales, I was assured that all successful barristers out here
are making from £1,500 to £3,000 or £4,000 a year, and
then retire on judgeships varying from £3 000 to £7,000
a year. This, of course, means good luck as well as brains.
Still, I wonder that some of our capalh English barristers,
who think themselves lucky if they clear £1,.500 a year
by the time tln^y are forty, do not come out here and tempt
Fortune on a bigger scale.

SYDNFA' AND MELDOUnNE.

Mechanical hcadwork is useless, but real talent must Tind
a wider field where the competition is less fierce than in
our overcrowded island,

Mrs. Wise being an old friend of mine in England, T had
many pleasant and sociable evenings with her and her clever
young husband in their pretty home " on " Maclcay Street,
the fashionable Sydney street of many handsome residences,
and somewhat reminding me of our Palace Gardens.

In company with Mr. and Mrs. Wise I made my first and
last appearance in the Sydney House of Parliament. It is
at present a most unpretentious, mean-looking, long, low
house in Macquarie Street, as little remarkable inside as
it is from the outside, A Speaker's chair, a few leather
stuffed seats on either side, for the Government and the
Opposition respectively, and a gallery at the end, pretty
well crowded with spectators (who, I trust, were edified by
what they saw and heard), completed the entourage.

Who was the great statesman who remarked, " With how
little wisdom the world is governed ! " ? How often that
sentence flashed through my brain as I sat in the Sydney
House for three mortal hours listenincf to tlie most undio-ui-
fied " wrangle " from tlic Opposition, which continually fell to
the level of personality and abuse, and threatened to sink
to the still lov>?er depths of a free fight.

It seemed that the previous evening some member of the
Government had stigmatized the conduct of some members
of the Opposition as " contemptible and notorious " — on the

KALEIDOSCOPE.

vexed question of obstruction. The expressions had been used
and withdrawn twenty-four hours previously, but the war raged
on with a flow of invective as dull as it was disgraceful.

One of the Opposition, an undertaker, was specially
violent, and had a depressed and vicious expression, as
though he had lived amongst corpses all his life, and had
not been improved by his surroundings.

The members of the Government certainly showed to
great advantage on this occasion, as they sat in almost
unbroken silence listening to the flood of abuse and
personalities that surged around them from the Opposition
benches. " A set of dirty tools " was one of the mildest
terms of reproach hurled at them ; but possibly tliey would
have been less forbearing and perhaps less dignified had the
respective positions been reversed.

One fears that such lamentable want of good taste and
good breeding can scarcely be confined to either side of the
House. The abuse, moreover, was so utterly stupid. They
never seemed able to see an opening for a good point by
which the adversary's weapons might liavc been tunied
inwards. One was reminded of those lines —

" Satire is like a penknife, sliar]) and keen,
Which while it penetrates is srarcely seen ;
Euttliine, the oy.ster knife that liai'ks and hew.=-
The will, but not the power, to abuse."

To me the whole proceedings appeared an undignified,
childlike, ill-bred, dishonest waste of the time tliat should

mmm

SYDNEY AMD MELBOURNE.

have been spent in the rocal interests of the country, and can
only serve as a terrible warning to our own House of
Commons, should tlie days ever conie wlien mass shall
outweigh merit.

The poor Speaker rose several times witli calls "to
order," and seemed both annoyed and disgusted, but help-
less to administer more than a temporary extinguisher,
after which the " honourable member " flew up again, more
rampant than ever. At five o'clock we came out to a
pleasant diversion in tlie form of tea in the Committee-
room, where the Leader of the Opposition, the Sergeant-
at-Arrns, and several other members were introduced to
me. The Leader of the Opposition (Mr. Dibb.s) told me
that on more than one occasion he had been present at a
sitting of fifty-six hours-once from Thursday till Sunday
afternoon. Beds and blankets were brought into the C\.)m-
mittee-rooms, and the members were literally "packed," to
be awakened wlienever a division took place. One man
spoke for nine hours consecutively, in order to gain time,
and managed, it is said, to cJu.g to some coherence in
spite of his lengthy speech. Ail this was told with great
triumph, but sounds rather derogatory to the dignity of
the House, when we consider tliat it sprav,g from a mere
party trick to starve and weaiy out the other .side tlirough
sheer physical exhaustion -surely not a very noble way of
getting the best of an argument.

The Government represents the Free Trade policy, and

m ^

KALEIDOSCOPE.

I was glad to have the opportunity of hearing Sir Henry
Parkes speak after tea. He is a striking-looking old man,
with a thick shock of pure white hair, and a face something
between that of a lion and a bulldog. He has a very low
sweet voice, that can, however, ring out with great strength
when he is repelling a charge or protesting against an
injustice. His language is remarkably well chosen, and
the words fall naturally and Avithout effort into their
appropriate places, so much so as to give a sense of rest
and completeness that not even the absence of every legiti-
mate h, and the introduction of n good many extraneous
ones, can disturb. I can quite understand his power in
reading men, and the r.iagnctic influence he exercises over
those who come nearest to him. He is al\\\\YS appealing
to the /cc/in(7s of hi.s audience; there is a sort of perpetual
Jnlms Ca:snr and Marl' Antony flMvour in liis speeches;
whilst any suspicion of weakness or sentimentality is kept
in check by flashes of the old Roman senator passion,
which are judiciously introduced from time to time.

One has a chronic feeling that he is a most noble, long-
suffering, much-enduring, and slightly unappn.'ciated patriot.
I suppose this is because ho is perpetually conveying such
an impression to every one.

Anyway, liis quiet voice and well-chosen words came as
a great relief after the unmannerly, vulgar, and bearish
behaviour of many of the members.

The A.ttoruey- General took but little part in the debate

«■■■

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

sncli

on this occcosion beyond asking a few questions ; his bright
refined face and quiet gentlemanly bearing seemed singularly
out of place with his surroundings.

It is not to be wondered at that so few respectable men
out here can be found to take part in politics with this
contaminating atmosphere.

Motives of purest patriotism must be required to induce
any honourable man to mix himself up with such company,
at the risk of suffering possibly for life from their foul lies
and insinuations against his private character.

Yet, unless more such men can be found, it is
hard to see whence political salvation is to come. The
outlook is a dreary one at pr-sent : boxing-gloves bid fair
to take the j^lace of truth and reason in the arguments of
the future.

In the company of kind friends I matle all the pleafaiitcr
expeditions in the vicinity of Sydney. We had a picnic to
Middle Harbour, wliich takes the cake for beauty as the
colonists would say. Wc drove to the South Head Light-
house, devoted a long summer afternoon away upon Maid-^-y
Beach, explored the lovely Lane Cove River, and spent one
melting, never-to-be-foi-gotten day in Paramatta, which town
boasts of a fine collegiate school (King's), but is chiefly in-
teresting as having been the site of the former residence of
tlic Governor, Old Govcrinuont House still remains as a
memory of tlio p;vst, in tlio Paramntta Park,

Going to Paramatta by steanuT from S^'dnoy, one passes

'I ^^

KALEIDOSCOPE.

numerous specimens of the mangrove, a tree which grows in
the water, and serves to reclaim the land by pushing forward
its roots, and so by degrees presenting an impenetrable
barrier to the encroaching waters. The branches of these
trees are thick and stumpy, especially towards the roots, and
the foliage is very dense, not unlike the Queensland fig-tree
at first sight.

Of course I " did " my Blue Mountains like the rest of
the world, but this scenery has been so fully described that
it is unnecessary to dwell upon it. My week in the mountain
district was a rainy one, with a few bright exceptions, when
the beautiful scenery seemed all the more beautiful for
emerging from such a mist of tears. To be able to reach
this glorious scenery and bracing climate within foui*
hours by train from Sydney, must be a matter for devout
thankfulness to every one living near the metropolis.

I stayed at Katoomba, a very central point, from which all
expeditions can be made.

My first day, being doubtful as regards weather, was
devoted to investigating the rail beyond Katoomba, and
specially the famous " zig-zag " — a loop-line which is a
modified edition of the one near Georgetown in the Rocky
Mountains. The train rises by a very heavy grade to a
point overlooking some deep cliffs ; here the engine reverses
and runs down a graduated incline, looping backwards and
forwards until the zig-zag platform is finally reached on the
plains beneath. A great deal of coal is found in these

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

mountains, and we saw many of the pits' mouths from
the train, and also in walking from Eskbank to the dirty
coal-miniijg town of Littigon.

Silver has lately been discovered in great quantities about
eight miles beyond Littigon, and I met a man on this ex-
pedition who seemed much excited by the mining prospects
recently opened out.

He "hailed" from Sydenham, England, but had spent
thirty years in the colonies, and spoke with great horror of
the rough bush life. " Ease of manner," according to his
account, seems to degenerate into very decided license of
speech and conduct, and the utter absence of the most ordinary
decencies of life. Govett's Leap is the expedition par excellence
in the Blue Mountains, but I thought Wentworth Falls quite
as beautiful, and the features of the scenery are curiously
similar in all these mountain expeditions. The same grand
panorama meets your eye everywhere. Miles upon miles of
thick " scrub " in the valley below, sharp precipitous rocks
rising around you in the form of a vast amphitheatre, whilst
you look sheer down— down into the unfathomable depths of
the virgin forest, and almost shudder to feel suspended, as it
were, in mid air over such a weird mysterious scene. The
waterfall, as usual, is merely an accident, breaking the curve
of the natural amphitheatre very pleasantly, and forming a
damp bed for the exquisite ferns which grow up its rocky
sides. I clambered down to various points, or " look-outs,"
guarded by iron railings, built over the giddy heights. The

«*««MniiVPi

KALEIDOSCOPE,

glorious line of blue mountains (so well deserving their
name), stretched out for miles into the far horizon, dying
away at length into the sky-line, from Avhich it was so hard
to distinguish them. The scenery here is above all charac-
teristic, quite unlike any other I have seen; and just now
(November), the monotony of green foliage was constantly
broken up by clumps of waraiah, a glorious mountain flower
which only blossoms at this time of the year. In shape it is
somewhat like a glorified globe artichoke, but of deepest
crimson, and grows on stalks as thick as one's finger some two
or three feet from the ground, springing up from the dark
green leaves which wave around the gorgeous blossoms. Many
beautiful specimens of Erica (specially the luhitc heather)
abound in this mountainous district, which is also a very
paradise of ferns. The comfortable Katoomba Hotel had
a very judicial flavour at the time of my visit, reckoning no
less than three judges with their wives, and in one case a
family, amongst its guests.

Sir William Stawell, formerly one of the most famous
judges in Victoria, but whose health, alas I has broken down
under the strain of work, was amongst these. I had much
talk over colonial matters with Lady Stawell, who spoke very
highly of the energy and education of " the people." Her
remarks referred, of course, to Victoria, not to New South
Wales, and there appears a vast difference between the two
countries, which aiv yet so nearly allied by situation and
*:lmuite. To k'Lihi witli, Now South Wales must have much

mmmm

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

more of the old convict blood in its veins. Melbourne ia
a newer city, and has been colonized from a very different
class in England, who went out to carve their fortunes by
industry and energy, and were not generally sent " for the
good of their country." Even those who came to Victoria
on compulsion did so generally for trifling offences. Minor
criminals were transported frequently, not because their
crimes were specially heinous, but as a matter of expediency
to colonize a country which seemed so far off thirty or forty
years ago that bribes of money or land Vv'ere found useless
in urging men to undertake what was then a very lengthy
and perilous voyage.

New South Wales, on the contrary, had been started in
the older days when convicts tvcrc convicts, and the first
idea was to provide a safe place for them, and not to extend
a rising colony. Much of my talk with Lady Stawell was
on the vexed question of domestic service out here. She
and many other mistresses have told me that Australian
servants arc on an absolutely different footing from those
in England, but it would appear in some ways a more
wholesome and pleasant one. It seems that you musL
readjust your views of domestic service here entirely or you
will get nothing done fo" you at all. "Treat a Colonial
servant as you would an English one, and see where yo.i pull
up." Lady StaAvell was guiltless of the Yankee expression,
but that seemed the text of her discourse. You must look
upon servants here as obliging sort of people who live in

• mj w^iy^iiiwpwfwi^

KALEIDOSCOPE.

b It'

your house iand are willing to work if you treat them very
well and consider it a matter of mutual accommodation.
They require more individuality of life, and exact time for
reading, working," and holidays, in a way that would
scare an English mistress. Give in to this with a good
grace, and I am assured that you can often secure faithful
and devoted service. Three ladies present on this occasion
spoke of servants who had lived with them for eight, ten,
and twelve years respectively, showing real unselfish devotion
in times of sickness and trouble. We English seem to fall
between two stools in this matter, and servants have come to
look upon us as natural enemies, or as weak fools if we
attempt to rule by kindness. The old feudal system between
master and servant, still surviving in parts of France, seems
to answer very well, as also the advanced Colonial idea of
equality of rights and citizenship. We seem to be in the
transition stage between the two, and the result is as
uncomfortable as incongruous positions invariably must be.

On my return to Sydney from the Blue Mountains, I
spent two very pleasant days on the Woodstock estate, near
Rooty Hill, a station on the line, some twenty miles from
Sydney, and the country residence of Mr. Walter Lamb.

My host, who has also a charming house in Sydney, is
a well-known breeder of stock, but has lately given fresh
impetus to local industry on his estate by starting a fruit-
canning establishment on his own grounds. He has let a
large portion of the Woodstock estate to small holders, on

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

the understanding that the land should be devoted to
fruit-growing, and has raised a substantial brick structure,
seventy-four feet in length by thirty-one in height, for re-
ceiving, cutting up, and canning the fruit. All the tins are
manufactured on the premises, where every operation con-
nected with the industry takes place. The great difficulty,
the water supply, has been.met by constructing an extensive
reservoir, capable of holding 3,000,000 gallons of water, whilst
a circular cemented brick tank with a capacity of 22,000
gallons has been constructed in front of the building, and
is worked by a wind-mill from the main reservoir. The land
is admirably suited for orchard purposes, being composed
of gently rolling hills and undulating slopes, offering grand
facilities for water storage. As the works develop, still larger
• reservoirs will be built, and steam power used to pump the
water into tanks distributed over the locality. More than
a hundred acres of land (to be increased to a thousand)
have been already planted with peaches, apricots, pears,
plums, and quinces, but fruit is also received at re-
munerative prices from many outside sources. Mr. Lamb
has travelled all over California to acquaint himself with
the newest machinery and the various processes for pre-
serving fruit on a large scale, and his icm is to develop
this industry in New South Wales, and enable her to
compete wi.h CaUfornia as one of the great fruit markets
of the world.

Australia moreover starts with one striking advantage.

■-r

KALEIDOSCOPE.

( i

^i •:

If t

California, has to buy all the sugar used for syrup-making,
whereas New South Wales can raise it on her own ground.
Mr. Lamb spoke most enthusiastically of the generous kind-
ness he had universally met with from the great " fruit
canners " of California when they heard the object of his visit.
Far from showing any petty jealousy in the matter they vied
with each other in affording him every facility for seeing
the details of the working of their various establishments.

One of my last evenings in Sydney was devoted to the
Criterion Theatre, in order that I might see the great
Australian theatrical stai-, Miss Essie Jenyns, who was play-
ing Viola in Twelfth Niglii. I had heard such exaggerated
accounts of her beauty and genius that it was perhaps natural
to find the reality far below my expectations. It is almost
unfair to criticize so voimg an actress severely ; but Australians
claim for her a place far above Ellen Terry, which is absurd.
She is a pretty, intelligent girl, has been well and carefully
taught, and does great credit to her teachers, making the
most of the powers Nature has bestowed upon her. But she
has not to my mind the most crude possibilities for anything
like a great actress. There was no flash of inspiration, no one
great moment throughout, nor do I think that she ever forgot
that she was Miss Essie Jenyns, a very charming girl, deeply
beloved and vainly adored by all the youth of Sydney.^

I must not leave Sydney without mention of a very inter-

' I have recently heard of the marriage of this popular young lady to
a gentleman of good position and large fortune in Sydney.

SYDNEY AM) MELBOURNE.

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But she

anything
on, no one
jver forgot
;irl, deeply

very inter-
oung lady to

esting afternoon spent with Professor Threlfall, wlio fills the
Chair of Natural Philosophy at Sydney University, and kindly
volunteered to show me his laboratory and something of
tlie University buildings, which are very extensive. The
magnificent hall used for '•Commemoration," and built in
the Elizabethan style, is the most striking of these. The
painted windows are very fine specimens of artistic colour
and taste. There is a fine carved wooden roof supported by
angels, and a very grand organ, divided into three parts,
with the warm colouring of a painted window serving as a
background for it.

The new medical schools are being built on a very fine
scale, and Professor Threlfall is himself planning and super-
intending the building of a new laborator> a plain work-
manlike structure but fitted up with every convenience.

He complained of the difiiculty of keeping within the
limits of a grant of £13,000, which seems a fair sum for
the purpose, but labour commands very high prices in
these parts.

My remembrance of a visit to the Art Museum in Sydney
is almost too melancholy to be recalled. The building re-
minis one irresistibly of a red brick stable, and speaks more
for the absence of feeling for art in the Colonies than a
hundred rirtioles written upon the subject could do. The
collection of sculpture is very poor. Some war pieces by
De Neuville, and a few originals of well-known works by
Millais and Leighton, represent the pictures, but there is

E 2

i I

'i!

1^ ' 1

I' !

KALEIDOSCOPK.

little evidence of local talent with the exception of one or
two Tasmanian views and one of the Goulburn River. There
are some good engravings, but these are all by English or
European artists, and there is without doubt a wide opening,
to be filled in the future, let us hope, by talent native to
the soil.

Having a lively remembrance of my sutferings on board
the Flora, I determined to go overland from Sydney to
Melbourne, some eighteen hours by train, with one or two
clianjies en route. America might take one lesson from
Australia, viz. in the arrangements of the Pulman cars at
nijrht. A shifting door divides the ladies from the gentle-
men, the position of the door in the car being regulated
by the numbers of berths engaged for either sex : married
couples are separated, of course, by this arrangement, but if
" the greater happiness of the greater number " is to be
considered, there is no question of the advantages of this
system over the crude American method,

Melbourne claims to remind one of America more than
any otlier Colonial city. So it does, and the boast is not
peculiarly vainglorious, for it would be hard to find any-
thing in ugline.ss to beat the usual type of American city,
Boston and Washington always excepted.

Melbourne, however, possesses some really fine buildings,
and the Botanical Gardens are even more beautiful hei'e
than m Sydney, although tlie latter can boast the finer
situation of the two, tlianks to the immortal harbour. Mel-

SYDNEY AND MELHOURNK.

f one ov

. There

nglish or

opening,

native to

oix board

jydney to

16 or iwo

3Son from ^

m cars at ^

he gentle- ':

regulated

. : married

ent, but it

" is to be .

cres of this

more than

oast is not

} find any-

erican city,

c buildings, |

lutiful here
;t the finer
hour. Mel-

bourne has certainly gone ahead of Sydney with regard to
the Houses of Parliament, which are very handsome. The
original building is thirty years old — quite historical out
here ; but within the last ten years some fine rooms have
been added, and two new wings are being built, which will
make an imposing finish to the structure. A beautiful little
cupola rises in the middle of the buildings, and the gilding
and ornamentation are in very good taste.

A distinguished member took me all over the Houses, and
told me, with great pride, that the size of the table and the
distance between the Speaker and the seats are the same as
in London. In one of the rooms I saw the original green
leather-covered Speaker's chair used in the English House
of Commons, from 1835 to 1853, and presented by Viscount
Canterbury, when out here, in remembrance of his father,
Lord John Manners.

The Speaker in the Victoria House wears a wig, and
therefore looks more imposing than his official brother of
New South Wales. Let us hope he also commands a little
more respect.

It is said that, so far as manners go, there is not much to
choose between the two Houses ; but upon this occasion the
Melbourne debate was at least respectable, if somewhat dull.
All the members spoke at once, and seemed anxious to drown
each other's voices ; but one learns to be thankful for small
mercies, and the absence of violent personal abuse was very
grateful, and full of blissful repose. I believe that here, as

KALEIDOSCOPE.

elsewhere, atmosphere must have some influence. Possibly,
a shabby old " House " may have as demoralizing an effect
on some masses of men as a shabby old coat has been known
to have upon many an individual.

My kind cicerone gave me an exhaustive, but rather com-
plicated, idea of Victoria politics. The two parties here seem
to have divided simply upon the question of taxation. The
plutocracy of course wish f )r an easy scale, and the extreme
Radicals insist upon severe taxation and a " sliding " scale, so
that a man with a thousand acres should pay less upon each
acre than the proud possesso; of two thousand would do.
Between these two extremes comes the Moderate Liberal
party, who approve of taxing real estate but disapprove of
the sliding scale, and are in favour of an equal tax on land,
apart from any question as to the extent of the " holding."

The Public Library is a very fine building in the Grecian
style, well supplied with books, which are free to all who
come to read. I was delighted to see so many men availing
themselves of such a privilege, but rather disappointed to
find that most of them were reading novel? at 11.30 a.m.,
very few scientific or literary books being in request on the
morning of my visit.

The Melbourne Picture Gallery is on a far finer scale
than the Sydney " Art (stable)," and a loan exhibition of
pictures from London, called the " Grosvenor Gallery," was
going on when I paid my visit there. In the Parliament
Gallei it was interesting to witness the haii<nng of Orchard-

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

Dssibly,
L effect
known

3r com-
re seem
1. The
extreme
scale, so
ion each
)uld do.
Liberal
prove of

on land,

d' _ "
ing.

Grecian

all who

. availing

)intcd to

1.30 A.M.,

st on the

ner scale
ibition of
lery," was
'arlianicnt
' Orchard-

son'.s " First Cloud," and a fine sea piece by Peter Graham,
which had only that morning arrived from England.

There is one nio?t deliglitful arrangement which ob-
tains in these Colonics, but men as usual have the best
of it, and they alone can profit by it, I refer to the
existence all througli Australia and New Zealand of re-
sidential clubs, wliere male visitors can put up for any
length of time instead of going to the dreary and generally
deserted hotels of the city. An introduction by one or
two members is of couise iutUspensable, but having once
obtained this, the lucky man is presented with "the free-
dom of the club '"' for all future time. This doubtless is
the reason that the hotels in Sydney and even in Mel-
bourne leave so mucli to be desired,

I must make i\. strong exception, liowever, in favour of
the Esplanade Hotel at .St. Kilda, one of the outskirts
of Melbourne, whore I Lad chosen to coine to anclior
rather than live in the crowded and hot city itself. The
hotel has now passed into other jiand.?, and is, I trust, as
well conducted as it ^\L\s by my host and his very pleasant,
intelligent daughter.

So many people assirred me that St, Kilda was ex-
tremely pretty, that 1 found myself at last repeating the
formula from sheer laziness, but 1 do not think it at all
pietty as a matter of fact. It boasts of an esplanade, a
pier, and various sea-bathing establisliments, but the water
looked scarcely sufficiently inviting to tempt one to try

/. .1

fMi

" ■

! I!

[I I, V

' I

KALEIDOSCOPE.

the latter. I should, however, recommend any one to stay
tliere sooner than in Melbourne during the hot summer
months, for the sake of the cool breezes ; and the numerous
trains which take you into the city in ten to fifteen
minutes prevent any feeling of isolation.

The gay time in Melbourne is the first week in November,
when the famous races take place, and a very pandemonium
of balls, picnics, and theatre parties sets in. The whole
month is more or less given up to pleasure, a sort of
carnival time of enjoyment (?) ; after which many of the
Melbourne young ladies seem to collapse, and spend a hard-
earned week or fortnight in their beds.

I came in for the fag end of the gaieties, in the shape
of an invitation to a very pretty dance on board the
Nchon. Special trains took us down to Williamstown,
at the mouth of the harbour, where the ship lay, and
from six to seven hundred guests mustered on board during
the afternoon.

Every one who has danced on board a big " man-of-
Avar " knows what a fairy-like scene can be produced
where flags and flowers abound ; but I had accepted the
invitation more especially in order to sec something of
Melbourne society on a big and more select scale than is
possible in Government House, where practically every one
is welcomed to tlie weekly receptions. I noticed many
well-dresseei women, and some very pretty ones. At all
iifteruoou eutertainnients there must be an undue proportion

■ lllll),IJ(l|l«i!Ji.l»li«}W,(ip»,»M!r.|llW*llUII«.!|»lii«l!lPI

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

of women to men, especially in a busy money-making
city, but this would not account for a fact which struck
me very forcibly— namely, the very large amount of evident
" duty-dances " that Avere going on. So many young and
pretty "wallflowers" lined the side of the ship, whilst
the more legitimate plant was seen whirling round in the
rather limited space left for dancing.

In my perplexity I applied to a good- natured naval officer
who had been introduced to me.

"Duty dances— money. Father and mother have good
houses and give good dinners. The difficulty is to get men
to come to a dance at all nowadays. A man has only two
hands, and those are dipped deep in the money-bags out
here. He has not a third arm to throw rov.nd a girl's waist at
a ball. You don't catch a canny colonial wasting time that
way," he answered.

A visit to Melbourne would be incomplete without goincr
to the temporary cathedral, St. Paul's, to see and hear the
surpliced choir of ten young ladies, who come into church as
" sweet girl graduates," with white surplice, black hood, and
tasselled college trencher complete. The singing was fair, but
hardly good enough to justify the eccentricity.

When a venerable pillar of the Church, of over seventy-five,
takes to himself a young wife under twenty years of age, I
suppose it must be expected that she should indulge in some
such vagaries 2^onr 2msser Ic temps. The young lady headed
tlie procession, and seemed veiy proud of her trencher.

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Tourak is one of the most fashionable suburbs of Melbourne,
and must represent a large portion of its wealth. The houses
are very handsome and well furnished, and if expensive
carpets, curtains, tables, and chairs, can bring happiness,
Tourak should be a perfect Paradise. The approach to
Paradise, however, lies appropriately through Purgatory, for
the roads in the neighbourhood are execrable, and full of
holes and ruts.

Labour is doubtless prohibitive in price, but as I was jogged
and jolted from house to house I marvelled that these rich
people do not put down a big lump sum to place the roads in
order, and pay even a heavy yearly subscription towards
keeping them so.

Melbourne in mid-November was at first exceptionally qold
for the spring, and the bitter winds made it hopeless for some
poor consumptive patients to leave the house for days
together. English doctors are too fond of sending a patient
vaguely " to Australia," forgetting the great differences of
climate over such large areas of ground.

Some parts of Australia, more especially Adelaide, are
peculiarly suited for chest complaints, but Melbourne is the
last place I should suggest for apoUrhiaire. When the cold
wind ceased, eight days of continued hot winds and sirocco
set in, most irritating to the nerves and enervating to the
system. Doctors should take more trouble to acquaint
themselves witli the real climate of the various localities to
which they send their jiatients, otherwise it means too

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE.

often an acceleration of disease as well as death in a
strange land.

It would be absurd to attempt anything like an exhaustive
description of the Australian Colonies on the strength of my
brief visit to them. At the same time, there is a good deal to be
said in favour of " first impressions " both as regards people and
places. Superficial as the grounds for forming these may appear,
they have a curious knack of justifying themselves in the
end. " 0)1 revicnt d ses premieres iddcs " is at least as true as
the more hackneyed proverb, " On rcvient d ses lyrcmiers
ammtrs." My own first impressions were so strong that I sent
home my biggest trunk the first week of my visit to Australia,
feeling quite sure that I should not wish to prolong this
indefinitely.

Being of a cautious nature, and having left England with
the idea of spending possible months in Australia, I cannot
quote a better proof of how far tlie reality disappointed my
expectations.

Perhaps it is unfair to measure the country by any severe
standard, and it may be justly urged, "Why not judge
Australia at least as leniently as wt iudge of the virtues and
failings of America ? Both are young countries, and equally
deserving of forbearance on this score."

It seems to me the difference is as the difference between
a youth who is vain but intelligent and a youth whose chief
claims to consideration rest at present upon a well-filled
banking account and an irrepressible self-appreciation.

mam

mm. I 'M

I ! ' :> i

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Possibly the Jays are at hand when money-making for its
own sake will begin to pall, and colonials will then wake up
to the eternal fact that man does not live by bread alone-no
nor eveu by curtains, nor carpets, nor tables and chairs-and
that money after all is chiefly valuable when it procures for
us, and enables us to procure for others, the real meat and
driak of spiritual and intellectual life.

( i

CHAPTER III.

NEW ZEALAND.

First impressions of New Zealand— The Blnff— Invercargill— Lake
Wakatipu— Hector Mountains— Glenorchy—Kawarra Falls— Shot-
over Kiver— Conversation with the Governor of Pentridge Gaol— His
ideas of heredity with regard to crime— Mr. Birley of Glenorchy—
Diamond Lake— Paradise— Eide to the valley of the Eees— Dunedin
— Happiness of married life in the Colonies as compare 1 with
England— A visit to the Bishop of Dunedin— His home and
orphanage— Port Chalmers— A week on a sheep-station— Station life
— Sheep-shearing- The rabbit plague— System of extermination—
Christchureh- Its public buildings— River Avon— A Christchnrch
sermon— A trip to the Sounds— Fishing— Tlie New Zealand bush—
The Flora— MiUovd Sound— A modern Crusoe— Regatta in George's
Sound — An exciting race— Visit to a member of the New Zealand
Parliament— Wellington— Its buildings and climate — A stormy
passage to Auckland— Onehunga— Maori fortifications— Expedi-
tions to Pink and "Wliite Terraces— /Sfo;;/»'rt—Sulphur baths— Advice
to ladies visiting hot Tarawera — Appearance of the Terraces since the
eruption— A thorough Christian— Visit to a Maori chief— A solitary
Englishman — New Zealand politics.

On Wednesday, December 7th, I left my anchorage at
the Esplanade Hotel, St. Kilda, and sailed in the Union
steamship Wairarapa for New Zealand, intending to dis-
embark at the first harbour, " the Bluff," and make my
way thence to the Lake district.

KALEIDOSCOPE.

After what the colonials would call "an exceptional
experience " in the way of a smooth passage, we sighted
land early in the morning of December 11th, passing the
snow-clad peaks of the south-west range of mountains,
beyond which lie the world-famed New Zealand Sounds ;
and by 5 P.M. we were alongside the wharf at " the Bluff."

I had heard such dismal accounts of the Bluff, and had
been warned so constantly not to judge the whole country
by a first impression of rain and wretchedness, that it was
quite an agreeable surprise to find the reality so far superior
to my anticipations.

The Bluff, seen as I saw it first, on a fine bright summer
evening, seemed quite a pretty little township. A few neat
white houses, some rather bare green hills rising behind
them, a signal-station keeping guard on the highest peak,
low-lying hills stretching far away to east and west of us,
— this was my first impression of New Zealand.

As the ship was to lie in harbour all night, I had arranged
to land next morning, when several fellow-passengers came
with me to spend the day at Invercargill, whence they
would return to the ship, which sailed for Dunedin that
evening.

Invercargill is an absolutely uninteresting town, lying
eighteen miles from the Bluff, an hour's journey in a
very slow train.

The streets are laid out on a very large scale, and the
Invercargillites must be very hopeful people if they expect

NEW ZEALAND.

to fill in the flesh of such a huge skeleton. The finest
buildings here, as elsewhere, are the grand stone banks,
suggesting unlimited financial possibilities, which, I fear,
are scarcely justified by the present condition of affairs in
New Zealand.

Going on by train next day to Kingston, C7i route for
Lake Wakatipu, the wearisome pace made one easily
believe the story of the man only lately arrived in New
Zealand who, being asked to take a train, declined with
thanks on the plea that " he was in a hurry," and preferred
walking.

The country at first was most flat and dull, relieved only
by " tussocks " of grass, some green and some yellow, dried
up and withered. The sheep will only eat the tussocks when
green and fresh; so the old shoots are continually burnt
down to make room for the tender undergrowth. We
passed a great deal of the handsome New Zealand flax, so
different in appearance from our own. It grows here to a
height of several feet, and looks like bundles of rushes
with a very handsome deep reddish-brown blossom. The
cabbage-tree also abounds. It is a species of palm, growing
on the top of a bare tree-stem with creamy and brown seeds.

Presently, to our left, appeared the snow-clad moun-
tain range of Te Anan, beyond which lie the lakes of Te
Anan and Manarowri. The scenery became much grander
towards the last hour, and by one o'clock we reached
the Kingston wharf, and embarked on the Mountaineer, a

•■

KALEIDOSCOPE.

convenient little steaiTier that plies iip and down Lake
Wakatipu on cert.iin days in the week. Salmon trout is
found in great quantities in this lake, averaging from nine
to thirty pounds in weight.

• The first view of the deep blue waters of the lake is very
beautiful, but the mountains at this end are bfire and bleak
without being extremely grand, and the scenery is rather
disappointing until, just before reaching Queenstown, the lake
opens out very much. On the right hand side runs the
range of Hector Mountains, culminating in a line of weird
jagged precipices, called "the Remarkables," and in
pleasant contrast lies the little township nestling between
the mountains, a gorge at her back and the lapping waters of
the intensely blue lake at her feet.

Fortunately for me, the landlady of the hotel at Glenorchy
(the head of the lake) was on board the steamer, and w^
made great friends, especially Avhen she found that I was
coming on in a few days to her house. Visitors make the
greatest mistake in confining their stay on Lake Wakatipu to
a few days at Queenstown, with a run to Glenorchy by steamer
and back in a day. All the finest scenery is at the head of
the lake, and can only be reached by riding or driving twelve
to twenty miles beyond Glenorchy. Mrs. Birley told me that
Miss Bird had stayed with her at Glenorchy many years
ago, before she achieved her Rocky Mountain fame. " Such
a quiet little body ; I would never have dreamed she could
write like that," said my friend, d(\sfribing her plain skirt and

11! :

NEW ZEALAN'D.

lown Lake
on trout is
; from nine

lake is very
i and bleak
y is rather
^n, the lake
le runs the
ne of weird
1," and in
ng between
ng waters of

,t Glenorchy
ler, and wf"
that I was
s make the
tVakatipu to
7 by steamer

the head of
ivinff twelve
;old me that
many years
lie. " Such
d she could

n skirt and

little Turkey red twill garibaldis " — as though they might bo
calculated to have some disastrous effecL upon literary
ability !

I was at Lake Wakatipu rather early in the season, and
found few travellers at " Eichardt's," supposed to be the best
hotel, and a very comfortable house.

Underbred colonials are a very unpleasant experience.
They stare at one as if one had come out of a menagerie,
and the absence of simplicity on the one hand, and of
savuir fairc on the other, causes them to n 'apse into a
sullen, sulky silence, most trying to the nerves of a solitary
traveller.

Driving is an expensive amusement all over the Colonies. I
was charged ten shillings for a short drive of barely two hours
in a tiny buggy, holding only one person besides the driver.

I went one afternoon to the Kawarra Falls, a rapid at the
outlet of the lake where it forms the River Kawarra, which
lower down joins and becomes merged in the Klutha River.
We passed a very pretty place belonging to Mr. Boyes, who
was staying at Eichardt's Hotel when I was there. He has
been (juite ruined, poor man, by the rabbit pest, and obliged
to give up his place, which was once one of the most pros-
perous in this part of the country. Further on we came
to the Shotovcr Bridge, spanning part of the wide bed of the
Shotover River. Half of this is a bed of sand and very treacher-
ous quicksand too. In ISTcS a tremendous flood caxied off
a splendid clover field, converting it into waste ground.

.< ,i

KALKIDOSCOPK.

In this same year all the lakes rose, flooding tlie covintry,
and boats could come into our hotel, which lies close to the
lake. A severe winter with heavy snows on the mountains
was followed by an early and hot spring, which melted the
snow too rapidly, thus causing the lake waters to overflow.

Beyond Shotovi^r lies the handsome building of the
Frankton Hospital, and a wide ex[)anse of agricultural
country some 2,000 feet above the sea line, known as the
Crown lands, where all the best crops of wheat and oats
are raised.

Gum-trees seem to flourish as well here as in Australia,
but they impoverish the ground by sucking up so much
moisture and throwing out such distant roots. No crops will
grow within seven or eight feet of a gum-tree plantation on
this account. I strolled one afternoon to the " Park," a pretty
tongue of land by the lake side, which has been planted with
young shrubs.

Feeling very much like Robinson Crusoe on his desert
island, I found my "man Friday" here. He appeared in the
shape 'of a grey-headed elderly man with whom I had some
pleasant and interesting conversation, and who turned out to
be a Mr. Gale, governor of the Pentridge Gaol near Melbourne,
a post he had held for thirty years. When I met him he was
at the beginning of a six months' holiday ; his health having
at length broken down under the great strain and responsi-
bility of his work.

He had served with Price (made famous under a nom dc

NKW /KALAN'D.

jnder a novi dc

plume in For the Term of Uis Natural Life), an^l was with hin.
when he was killed. Many people affirm that this terrible
tale is below rather than beyond the truth. Mr. Gale, how-
ever, speaking from the official point of view, says that the
book contains gross exaggeration. He maintains that Price
was a really humane man, although severe, as was necessary
with " men who were moro like wild beasts than anything
human." " What can you do without bolts and bars and with
a few men in authority over hundreds of these wild animals,
for that is what most of them were in the old convict days ? "
It is a sa,J problem, and no doubt here as elsewhere there are
two sides to the question. Still, there must have been
terrible temptations to cruelty in the days when moral
discipline was far less understood and practised than in our
own time, and when there was no public opinion to restrain
or criticize the use of physical force. Mr. Gale and I had some
interesting talk on the subject of heredity with regard to
crime. He says that, after an experience of thirty years, he
is convinced that crime is as much inherited as drunkenness
or insanity.

He said, " It is only of late years that people are coming
to realize this, but it has been so from the besinnino-.
During an experience stretching over thirty years I have
never known one real criminal reformed for any length of
time, although I have known several who have been clever
enough to deceive my cnaplains, some of whom have had
considerable knowledge of criminal human nature. I do not

if,

I '!

1^ I

i ii

\ I

KALKlDOSCOriv

moan to say that a man who comes into gJiol ouco or even
twice, tempted beyond his strengtli or through pressure ol'
unfortunate circumstances, may not reform and outlive all
prison taint ; but from the real criuiiii d class, I have never
known one reforniation that was both genuine and lasting.
It is born and bred in the bone."

This seems a tiirribly sad conclusion, but once convinced of
the truth of it, surely we had better face facts, and try to
reform at the other end. I suggested that criminals should
not be allowed to marry, and so go on providing inmates for
asjdums and gaois.

" No doubt," sani Mr. Gale, " ii must come to that some
day as a mere question of political economy, but at present
the world is not prepared for such extreme measures and
would not tolerate them."

If, as scientists now believe, the child before birth can be

as sti'ongly influenced mentally by the condition of the

mother as it can be physically, is it visionary to imagine that

a child, conceived by parents given up to every bad passion,

should make its appearance in the world as much marked

morally by the mother's wicked impulses and desires as it

might be physically by her craving for any special food or

drink ? It is considered blasphemous and improjier to speak

of these things, but is it not folly to ignore them and try to

" tinker up " at the wrong end, spending thousands of pounds

annually to support and chastise the criminals who should

never have been born ?

NKW ZEALAND.

uce or even

pressure ol'

outlive all

Lave never

and lasting.

convinced of
5, and try to
duals should
; iumates for

that some
it at present
leasures and

birth can be
itiou of the
imagine that

bad passion,
nuch marked

desires as it
)ccial food or
oper to speak
!m and try to
nds of pouutls
s who should

After a few days in Queenstown, I started by steamer for
the head of the lake. The mountains became more bleak
and bare as one went further north, and the snow-clad peaks
of ^fount Earnshaw and liii- CVsmos and Forbes nmges
soon came into sight. The whole of Lake Wakatipu is
famous for its gold gulches. In 1803 there was a regular
" rush " here, and gold has been found in f^reater or less
quantities ever since. The work is very hard, but the
excitement is proportionately great, and sometimes from £300
to £400 a week has been made by successful mining.

My host at Glenorchy, Mr. Birley, is considered to have a
very good "scent" for gold, and has done a great deal of
successful mining in his day. He is a man of good birth and
of considerable literary attainments, but no doubt spent his
money " not wisely but too well " in the old country, which
he left i^aarly thirty years ago. He had been much in
>porting and musical circles in those days, and having a
capital memory delights in talking about them. We had
many pleasant talks, but the conversation became a little
difficult occasionally, as he was constantly asking after
musical and dramatic stars, or celebrated racers who had
flourished when I w^is in my cradle.

The most beautiful expedition irorn Glenorchy k to
Diamond Lake, and a lovely place called Paratlise — Sitid well
deserving of the name — some ten miles from Glenorchy.
Mrs. ]\rason, wife of the present owner of the Itmd, came
out and gave me a most kindly welcome and a cup of

!\'

i ^

KAF.KIDOSC.OPE.

excellent tea. She is a most refined and well-read -woman.
Her little drawing-room was fnll of reviews and books and
papers, but she has led this strangely solitary life for years,
and does not seem at all discontented. Her one com-
plaint is that living so many miles from any possible
medical aitl might be fatal U) lior husband, no longer a
young or strong man. After tea she took me a wall: over
some ploughed fields to a hill whence we had a most magni-
ficent view of the snow-clad peaks of the Cosmos .' n .,'. of
mountains.

The approach to Paradise was anything but reassuring,
for wo liad to cross and recross the river many times, and
our shaky eon'veyance was often half ftiU of water.

Another dm Mr. Birley and I took an unusually long
ride of nearly fcMy miles in all to the valley of the Rees
River, thence thrwi^ a deep lern gully of interminable
length, and up a steep mountain track to the quartz
mining of the "Invir*rible Mill." The view thence was
glorious, but uothing f-.atild iirpass Paradise, and as my
horse was extremely obstinate and had no mouth, T should
have regretted the expedition with any companion less
interesting than Mr. Birley, who discoursed upon every
conceivable subject, from I5bp Derby winner of 184(1 to the
poetry of Burns and Tennyson.

"For goodness sake, Birley, k'ave that nonsense alone,
and take a rake to the garden, do,'" was the rather iiTeverent
comment of his practical wife, when she came in one

NEW ZEAJ.ANI).

morning, and found him deep in Shakespeare's sonnets,
Avliich he was reciting to me.

" You see my poor dear wife's limited range of thought,"
lie said, but took the hint, and, I am bound to say, did a
good morning's work when once safely started. He is
fortunate in possessirig such a ])ractical, hard-working wife,
and appreciates tlie f.\ct thorougldy.

I left them both with many regrets after a stay of three
days, and retraced my steps by steamer and rail to a junction
called " The Elbow," whence I took the Waihemo Plains
railway to Dunedin.

The scenery was most monotonous, and the journey, of
less than 200 miles, occupied twelve hours. Every one had
spoken to me of the " Grand Hotel " at Dunedin as the
finest in the Colonics. That may be, but it leaves much
to be desired. It is built on a very large scale, somewhat
resembling a baby American hotel. Tho food is pretentious
but not well served, and the service generally is deficient.
A smaller house Avould have served all purposes, and the
money saved might have been well laid out in procuring
greater comfort for the guests in other ways.

Dunedin is a much scattered and rather perplexing town.
It is bounded on one side by d peninsula running right out
into the sea, the bay being inclosed between this and the
curve of the opposite shore. Dunedin proper stretches far
away into the suburbs of St. Kilda, Caversham, &c., &c.
There are some very severe hills in the town, but cable cars

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KALEIDOSCOPK.

make locomotion easy. On the liigli promontories are some
liaiidsome houses belonging to the <!lUe of the place, and
commanding lovely views of llio harbour. Dunedin is
essentially a. Scotch town. The Scotch ovenun tliis part
of the world as the Irish overrun America. The climate is
much like tiiat of England — nearly as much ra'n, but a good
deal more sunshine — and, on tiie whole, I thought (piite the
pleasautest weather that I can look back upon during my
three months' stay in New Zealand. I spent a week in
Dunedin, and made many pleasant acquaintances, having
brought letters of introduction from kind friends in Australia.

I think most English people will feel, as I did, far more
at home in New Zealatid tlian in Australia. There is less
pretension and more simpjicity of life, and tiie result is that
peo])lo are more genial and natural.

As countries become more civilized, I fear the old in.stincts
of hospitality arc very a])t to die out. This is inevitable.
As a country develops, more strangers iiock to it. Hotels
are built, and take the place of private entertainment. The
rare visitor who was once so eagerly greeted and so
hospitably received, bringing as he did the atmosphere of
tht; dear old country with him, is now spoken of as a " globe-
trotter" and a ".sponge." Teiegrajihs and steam communi-
cation of five weeks have put people out here "in touch"
with England in a way which enables them to dispense with
the society of the tourist unless he has some exceptional
qualities ^o recoinuienil him <<> 'lirii iiddcc.

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NEW ZEALAND.

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Much, uo doubt, has boon gained, but something also has
becu lost since the old instincts of hospitality have died out.
In New Zealand, however, much of the ancient tradition
still exists, and tliis doubtless accounts for the home-like
feeling one experiences out here.

Amongst other introductions in Dunedin, was one to
Mr. Gray liussell, wlio is well known in the town, and has
a beautiful liome situated on a road which skirts the
harbour.

Having understood that I could reach the house by a
sort of omnibus in about twenty minutes, I took my place
one afternoon, intending to deliver my letter, pay a conven-
tional ten minutes visit, and return, within an hour or so.
After jolting for more than an hour along the shore road, which
seemed to roll itself out like a ribbon, we arrived at last at the
gates of Mr. Russell's house. I had been told that a return
vehicle would stop here in about half an hour, but wishing
to be quite exact, made special incpiiries of the driver.
Imagine my horror when he calmly answered, " There is
no otlier conveyrmce returning to Dunedin along the road
till to-morrow morning." The people jniglit be from home,
and in any case were absolute strangers to me, and English
tradition was too strong for me not to feel some qualms in
such a dilemma. I " felt like "' running away to iiide in
the bush, but remembered that food was a necessary factor
for consideration.

" Can 1 not get a horse anywhere near here and ride

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

it.

back?" I asked in my despair. "No, nn m ; nothing of
tliat sort to be liad here," answered the man calmly
as he drove awav : ieavinfr me standinjr alone in the
road. There Avas nothing for it but to go boldly on, and
after mounting the hilly garden, which commands a lovely
view of the ba}', to ring at the door boll. The moment
I entered and had confessed my sad plight, all my fears
were dispelled ; a delightful hostess gathered in the position
at oacc, and within live minutep, she and I and a lady
calling there were laughing heartily over the adventure
and my despair.

Having to consult a doctor during my Dunedin visit,
and to wait over an hour in his room, gave mo the chance
of a chat with an interesting fellow-patient, who afterwards
most kindly gave up her turn to me. She is now the wife
of a miller living up country, but was the daughter of an
old P. and O. sailing captain, and told me much of her
sea life. Having lost her mother as a baby, she had livetl
up to the age of eighteen entirely at sea with her father,
being often away with him for two or three years at a
time.

" He was father and mother to me in one," she said. '■ He
taught ni'.' everything, and did everything for me." The
sad part of the story was that twelve years ago his ship
went down between New York and Liverpool, and he was
drowned. Siie nnd two sailors were the only survivors of
the wr(?ck. His money unfortunately went down also, and

NEW ZEALAND.

she would have been left penniless but for a pension allowed
her by the Company. She determined to come out to
New Zealand, wishing to see the country, and thinking the
change might do her good after the terrible grief and .shock
of her catastrophe, and has found her fate here in the miller
aforesaid, who seems to make a kindly husband.

I may here mention a fact that has struck me as well as
many otliers during my colonial experiences. Prejudiced
as I may appear against the Colonies as a whole, I am bound
to confess that I never in the whole course of my life met
with so many happy married couples as in tliese countries.
The highest civilization (as, for instance, London life) does
not seem to bo the most fertile soil for connubial bliss.
Possibly greater luxury, a more complex life, and, above all,
greater idleness, produce more grounds for divergence of
opinion and tastes. Station life in Australia, and life
generally in New Zealand, is far simpler than with us,
and interests are more in common and less likely to clash.
Add to this that in many cases there has been a hard stru<Tcrle
to start with. Husband and Avife have known what it is to
work liard, sharing a mutual Ufe of labour and often of hard-
ship. When brighter days come, the tender memory of those
early struggles will remain to brighten their path, and
give the radiance to married love which, alas ! so often
<^-es with the honeymoon in our own more pampered
existence.

Another pleasant day was spent in the beautiful home

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KAI.KIDOSCOI'K.

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of tlie Bishop of Dundin. He has designed liis own house,
whicli lies on higli ground in a district, called " The Waters
of Loitli," from a pretty stream which wanders down the
valley. The lower half of the liouse is grey and white stone,
the upper half red brick and dark wood, a curious but very
effective condiination.

Inside, the staircases, panelling, roofing. Sec, arc all of
unpolished oak combined with a beautiful native wood of
similar appearance. The bush in front of the house has been
cut into pretty paths by the Bishop himself, and exquisite
ferns of every description flourish here. The Bishop is full
of taste and energy in adorning his own beautiful home, but
does not forget to make others happy also.

In the afternoon I saw the orphanage which lie and
Mrs. Neville have started. They have built a pretty
cottage behind their own house for some sixteen little girls,
of ages varying from five to sixteen, such healthy-looking
children ! They were playing about on the steep Avooden
steps leading from the Bishop's house. " Like Jacob's ladder
loith the angels upon it" was the Bishop's rather poetical
remark as we passed.

It was very pretty to see the little pink sun-bonnets
fluttering round him as he called out to them to join us.
They needed no second bidding, but came clattering down,
thrusting their little chubby hands into his, and begging
him to make them a " bird's nest " of hay. It was quite
sad to remember that he had no little birds of his own.

Ni:\V ZKALAM).

but these little orphau ones lie very uear the e2)iscop{:.l
heart, I fancy.

I received uo less than three kind invitations f'(.r what
would otherwise have been a solitary Christmas, and felt
quite grieved to be obliged to refuse two of them.

A few days later I started for a pleasant week's visit to
see something of " station life " on a sheep station within a
few hours by train of Dunedin.

My route lay past the beautiful harbour of Port Chalmers,
which is only seven miles from the town, and where all the
large steamers cast anchor.

The situation of this port is most beautiful, and as the sun
came out after a rainy afternoon, I saw it to great advantage.
Further on I got into conversation with a nice old couple wdio
had once owned a station near the one to which I was bound.
We had a long talk over New Zealand. The husband, like
every one else here who has any stake in the country, is down
upon democracy. I confessed that the Colonies would do
more than any other experience towards shaking my
anti-Conservative views. "Yes," he answered, "I anx
not surprised to hear you say so. In England you are
only playing at democracy. Here you see it worked out,
and it means mob rule, witli the result of ruin to the
country."

I cannot admit that this is the inevitable result of Liberal
moderate principles. To take refuge in Conservatism from
the ahusc of Liberal princii^les is merely a compromise, and

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KAI.KIlMtscoi'K,

tliorofore weak, as most compromises are apt to be. It is like
going in for total abstinence on the principle of confessing
that temperance is impossible.

The scenery was very pretty all the way to the junction,
where I, changed into the local train which carries coal, &c.,
uj) to the little township near which my friend's station is
built, I think we took nearly an hour to get over this last
nine miles by train. My host arrived in a tiny buggy with
two horses, whilst I was arranging to leave my heavy baggage
in the station office. The formalities attendant upon this
very simple process were soleum enough for the signing of a
treaty, but at length I was free to jump into the carriage
and be whirled at a good pace along a mile of dusty road to
the pretty grey stone building, coverec' dth green creepers
and yellow jasmine, which was to be my home for the next
few days.

The country around is very pretty, consisting of the undu-
lating " spur and gully " form of hills so characteristic of
New Zealand ; scarcely a tree to be seen, buc excellent
pasturage for sheep. Round the house is a little plantation
of willow and eucalyptus, and a small orchard planted by
the owner.

We had several delightful drives for miles around in the
little buggy, drawn by two very " free " not to say skittish
horses ; the only drawback to my perfect enjoyment being the
conviction that the "machine" must turn over before we
reached home in safety. It seems as if a breath of wind

NKW /.KAI.AM).

might upset these very liglit little caiiiages, but doubtless
this very quality of lightness is their salvation, for they bound
over ruts and ine([ualities of ground in a truly surprising
manner.

At first the weather was almost too cool for i)leasant
lounging, but soon the sun became deliciously warm, and to
lie all morning in a long " deck chair," on the veranda, with
a book in one's lazy hands, seemed the very acme of hai)i)iness
to a poor travel-stained globe-trotter.

I saw comparatively little of my host, having arrived at
shearing-time, the busiest time of year on a sheep station.
However, there is always compensation to be had, and mine
lay in the chance of going over the sheds with him, and
watching the whole process of shearing, pressing, packing,
&c. We came first to the pens where the sheep are kept
ready for shearing after being "draughted in" from a
common large pen. By an ingenious arrangement each
sheep can be at once assigned to its pen as the flock passes
up a narrow passage, one at a time. A door opening to the
left Avill drive a sheep into a right-hand pen and vice versd,
the same arrangement higher up dividing other sheep of
various species, to be determined in a .noment by the brand.
Thus special breeds are separated, and likewise the ewes,
wethers, and lambs.

On this particular station there were about 20,000 sheep.
Sixteen men were employed for the shearing, and each man
should be able to shear about 100 sheep a day. It must be

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WEBSTER, NY. 14580

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

a very fatiguing process, bending over the sheep and keeping
it in position, which is more than half the battle. I tried
a little shearing on my own account, and could then better
appreciate the skilful way in which the shears went through
the wool, but alas ! now and again the poor patient creatures
get a bad cut. " As a sheep before her shearers is dumb."
How forcibly those words came to my mind ! When the
fleece is removed, the dirty ragged edges are cut off, and it
is rolled up and tossed into a special compartment according
to quality. The wool of one kind is pressed down by a heavy
" \v o\ press " into a sack which is held out squarely for its
reception. The pressure seems so great, and the bulk after-
wards so solid, that it appeared impossible to compress it
further. This, however, is done, and to a very considerable
extent, for my host told me that these "two hundredweight"
sacks became less than lialf their size through hydraulic
pressure on board ship, before being lowered into the hold.
Iron bands are then placed round the sacks, and the process
is complete.

Some sheep-owners have the wool " scoured " before
shipping, but the loss of weight entailed is generally
considered too great in proportion to tlie extra price it
fetches under these conditions.

The one drawback to my enjoyment of " station life in
New Zealand " lay in the sad problem of rabbit extcrniiua-
tion. Here it is brought home to one at every turn. The
poor little innocent creatures who are such a teri-ible curse

m- I I I I , j iii«w n>

NEW ZEALAND.

to the country scamper about under one's very feet, although
on this one station from £500 to £600 a year are expended
in the somewhat vain attempt to put them down.

The system of poisoning the rabbit holes is not only very
costly, but seems horribly cruel. Two, three, and even up
to five and six days have been known to elapse between
the time when the poison was taken, and when the poor
little victim has died after all these days of intolerable
agony, for the phosphorescent poison literally burns them
through and througli.

The evil is on too gigantic a scale to be put down by
shooting parties, and oven this mode of killing is ftir from
merciful in a country like New Zealand, which is full of
hills and gullies. It is one thing to kill a few rabbits on
the plain in England, giving a merciful knock on the head
to supplement the shot when necessary, but it is quite
another thing to shoot rabbits by wholesale on hilly ground
or across gullies, where it is often impossible to get at them,
and even when possible, men grow careless at length, and
leave the poor little wretches to a lingering death, for
ftimiliarity breeds cruelty as well as contempt. No doubt
it is unreasonable to expect that men who are being ruined
year after year by the rabbit plague should cherish much
tenderness of feeling towards the innocent causes of their
woe, but this does not make the facts less bad from the
rabbits' point of view.

I was told lately that the man who introduced rabbits

KALEIDOSCOPE.

into New Zealand was still alive, and broken-hearted with
remorse to think of the many men he had ruined by his
rash action. I should feel quite as much remorse for the
terrible torture inflicted upon the rabbits themselves. It
matle one long to be a great and successful chemist, and
able to discover some merciful means of getting rid of the
poor creatures.

Turning my back with many regrets on my pleasant
" station " life, a hot, dusty, and uninteresting journey over
the flat Canterbury plains, brought me one fine evening in
early January to Christchurch, the literary centre of the
Colony.

My hotel being situated in the Cathedral square, this
was naturally the first building that attracted my attention.
It is built of grey stone, and said to be modelled after
one at Caen. The inside is plain but handsome, and
possesses a little really good stained glass. The town is
flat and very hot in summer, being built upon the plains,
but it is full of interest owing to the beauty of the public
buildmgs, These are of the same fine grey stone as the
Cathedral, and are chiefly educational. The University
Hall is very fine, but simple. It does not compare with
the one at Sydney, but runs a very good second to it.
Chrisichurch College is somewhat of a budding university,
with a fine chapel and school-house, and a number of
wooden houses round the square, where the masters live.
But the Museum is the nc plus ultra of Christchurch, and

NEW ZEALAND.

the inhabitants have good cause to be proud of it. It
would do credit to any large town in England or on the
Continent. There is a fine collection of minerals and metals,
skeletons of prehistoric animals, and a whole room full
of the " Moa," a bird now extinct in New Zealand, but
which was known here within the last hundred years. The
skeleton looks something like an ostrich, but it is on a
larger scale, and the legs look even stronger than those of
an ostrich.

It is thanks to these strange birds that Christchurch
possesses such a fine collection of other things, for the
authorities have been constantly enabled to make valuable
exchanges with other European collections by sending them
specimens of the Moa, which is peculiar to this country.

The real pride and glory of the city, however, is the River
Avon, which appears to be to Christchurch what " the
harbour" is to Sydney.

It is more of a wide stream than a river, bordered on
either side by deep waving willows which often interlace
overhead, and is certainly very lovely and picturesque. A
boating party on the Avon is a very pleasant and refreshing
experience after a hot, dusty summer's day.

We had some terribly hot days during my week's visit,
and the " sirocco " wind made any exertion irksome and life
itself almost intolerable, but I was assured, as usual, that my
experience was " a most exceptional one."

Christchurch has some fine suburbs. One day we went

G 2

KALEIDOSCOPE.

out by train and coach to Sumner, a seaside place with a
bold coast-line and rocky scenery, about an hour from the
town. Hotels and houses are built here, and it seems to be a
summer refuge from the relaxing heat of the city.

In all New Zealand towns a curious habit obtains, viz. a
Saturday evening " parade," when all the shopkeepers turn
out and perambulate the streets for an hour or two. The
crowd at Christchurch was great, and not very select, but it
was an amusing experience for once.

I spent a happy Sunday with kind friends who own a
handsome house in the suburb of Papanui, the invitation
having been given for that special day that I might hear
a famous preacher who ministers there. He struck me as
clever, but scarcely sympathetic, and spoke of the "fall of
man " as a " clumsily put together story, invented to account
for the presence of evil in the world." The really, curious
thing was to note the strange advance in thought and the
daring expression of it possible in these days, out of England
at any rate. The congregation was composed of quiet,
respectable men and women, who listened to these startling
remarks without any display of surprise or emotion. In any
large city where there is ample choice of theological food,
such remarks might be made with impunity, for each congre-
gation represents a special section of thought and opinion,
but it seemed odd to listen to such a daring Bible commentary
addressed to a country congregation, composed, as it must be,
of so many various elements.

NEW ZEALAND.

One of the most favourite expeditions in New Zealand is
the " Sounds trip." The Union Steamship Company send
one of their boats to make this trip once a year. The ex-
pedition can only be made in the month of January, when the
clouds and mists have lifted off the mountains, which they
envelope during the rest of the year. Hitherto the one trip
had been found sufficient for the numbers wishing to under-
take it, but on this occasion it was considered advisable to
send the steamer to the Sounds twice, and so divide the
large number of passengers whose names had been down
in the Company's books for many weeks beforehand.

As it is impossible to do everything, even during a lengthy
stay, my first intention had been to miss this expedition and
cross the South or Middle Island to Giavmouth, whence I
trusted to get by steamer to Napier, but I found that this
would entail waiting ten days for a steamer with miserable
accommodation, unless I could face five consecutive days of
very rough coaching, which, after American experiences, was
an impossibility.

Being forced to modify my plans, I determined to go upon
the " Sounds trip," which had been described to me in the
most glowing colours as something far surpassing the wonders
of the Norwegian fiords, with which I was already familiar.

There are two great classes of travellers, who might be
described in slang terms as the " the Crcdhcrs " and " the
Gushers." The former never find anything to compare with
places already visited ; the latter have never beheld any

KALEIDOSCOPE.

scene so marvellous as that upon which their eyes rest at
the moment. Endeavouring to avoid both extremes, I can
strongly recommend the expedition, but it will not be an
unmixed delight to bad sailors, and fine weather is, of course,
a most important factor, and one that cannot be counted upon
with any certainty.

Our steamer, the Tarmvera, started from Port Chalmers
carrying ninety-seven passengers. Our route lay past the
Bluff, and so to the west coast Sounds, and the roughness of
the passage upon this occasion quite justified its usual
character. Allowing for the passage to and from the Bluff
to Port Chalmers, and the rough seas to be encountered
between the haven of the various Sounds, I find a record of
four and a half days' sea-sickness to be deducted from the
ten days' pleasure !

For a pleasure-trip this is rather depressing, and it is
well for bad sailors to count the probable cost in dis-
comfort before starting. The cost in money is woi derfuUy
moderate. Twelve pounds covers all expenses, and the food
and accommodation are fairly good.

Many of our fellow-passengers were extremely pleasant
and sociable, and dances, concerts, and recitations beguiled
the evenings, and had been all planned and arranged before-
hand through the energy and kindness of the ship's officers.
In fact some of the young ladies seemed to look upon these
entertainments as the raison d'etre of the expedition rather
than its supplement ; and I was occasionally amused by the

NEW ZEALAND,

way in which picnics and expeditions on shore were apt to
be cut short, because some one "nmsi go bach to the ship
to practise a song or rehearse a part!'

It is useless to go into any detailed account of these
glorious inlets of the sea. Those who know them by
experience will require no description, and to those less
favoured, continuous word-painting is generally ineffectual
and apt to become wearisome.

We had three fine days to start with, two of which were
spent in exploring the wonders of the bush round Reservation
Inlet, The steamer anchors in the various Sounds, and a
steam-launch and several boats take the passengers for
land-trips, or on fishing expeditions, according to their
various tastes.

One boat will take all those wishing to fish to the most
likely spot for this sport. Another boat is filled with
enthusiastic sketchers. Others \vi^h only to dawdle about
and picnic on shore, whilst the steam-launch is generally
patronized by those who want to get over a good deal of
ground (or rather of water) in a short time, to gain a general
impression of the Sound without the trouble of landing and
scrambling through the thick bush which comes down on all
sides to the water's edge.

I went on one fishing expedition, but never wished to
repeat the experiment, as my sporting instincts are too
rudimentary to enable me to look at the poor fish flapping
themselves to death in the boat, without a pang.

KALEIDOSCOPE.

The fish in the Sounds are very varied in kind and
numerous in quantity ; ahnost too much so from the sports-
man's point of view, I should imagine. Within an hour
our boat was crowded up with fish of every sort, colour, and
kind, and there seemed little need of skill, or chance for
the display of it. The blue cod, and rock cod, were the best
for eating, and we had constant supplies of these for our
breakfast-table.

To me, the exquisite New Zealand bush formed the
greatest attraction. It is impossible to penetrate this to
any distance, as the thick, trailing, interlacing boughs and
creepers form an insuperable obstacle, and the dense foliage
becomes impenetrable within a short distance of the shore ;
but every iucli of the bush here is beautiful. Every species
of exquisite fern is to be found here, more especially the
rare "kidney fern" which grows here in great profusion,
shaped as the name denotes, and of the loveliest tender
shade of green. The Now Zealand honeysuckle, which is
scarlet, with a leaf like mistletoe, and a species of myrtle
with a red blossom, called the " Rata," are the most beautiful
and conspicuous shrub and tree at this time of the yeai",
but fresh beauties await one at every step. Perhaps the
varied mosses strike one as much as anything. They are
of every shape and colour. Some are like the softest tiny
fairy cushions of yellow, green, and brown. One nook
which we came upon by chance after a long scramble up
some rising ground, was so beautifully carpeted with ferns

NEW ZEALAND.

and modses of every description, that we, proud discoverers,
called it Paradise at once, and could not rest until we had
persuaded various friends to go tlirougli the tangled trees
and > the steep ascent for the sake of such exquisite
beauty. I trust that those who reach the real Paradise
may drop some of the restlessness of human nature en
route. The gentlemen looked round at our fairy palace,
said, " Yes, awfully pretty," and in two minutes added,
" Hadn't we better be moving ofif now ? " just as though
they had not come some twelve thousand miles to see these
very wonders I

I should describe the New Zealand Sounds as " lovely "
rather than " grand," with the exception of Milford Sound,
which is the culminating point of the whole trip, and most
fully deserves the epithet. Unfortunately, as we steamed
into Milford Sound, at 8 A.M., the clouds were very heavy, and
at first almost hid from us the mountains which rise here,
sheer and straight from the water, to heights varying from
2,000 to 5,000 feet. These bare rocks are covered with short
green shrubs and ferns and foliage, growing apparently out of
the living rock and with no chance of soil. Many small
waterfalls pour down the rocky mountain-sides, the largest of
these being 550 feet in height. Owing to the recent heavy
rains, this waterfall was certainly seen to the greatest per-
fection, but it was difficult to realize the height as three times
that of Niagara !

The New Zealand boats from Melbourne sometimes put

OMBf

;

KALEIDOSCOPK.

into Milford Sound before touching at the Bluff. If any
tourist can insure a passage on one of these occaHions, lie may
console himself by thinking that he has seen the most beauti-
ful and characteristic spot in the whole " Sounds tnp," and
this without the fatigue of being amused for ten days.

To have fine days, and to wander about an exquisitely
beautiful " bush," is as near an approach to Paradise as I can
conceive. But " to be amused " for ten mortal evenings seems
to me an equally vivid conception of Purgatory. This doubt-
less is the reason that picnics, which give inmiense trouble,
are rarely successful. To start upon a purely " pleasure-trip "
is almost invariably a fatrl experiment, and I think it arises
from the great difficulty oi " being amused to order." Pleasure
as a wayside flower is delightful, but pleasure planned to rule
has often the sickly, enervating atmosphere about it of a
hothouse plant.

One day, passing an island in George's Sound, the captain,
through his glass, saw a man with two dogs making
violent signs for us to " heave-to." Time happened to be an
object to us just then, but of course a boat was lowered at
once, and two or three sailors pushed off towards the shore.
We all, the captain included, imagined nothing less than a
Robinson Crusoe, or at least a starving man, but when the boat
returned with him we found he had no wish to be taken on
board, nor was he even in want of food. He had lived for
some months upon the island, shooting and skinning birds,
and only wanted some more pepper to carry on his work ! As

NEW ZEAJ,AND.

the captaiu's humanity had cost him over an hour's dolay,
his language upon hearing thia was anything but Parlia-
mentary, and I fancy our modern Crusoe got all the pepper
ho wanted, in one way at any rate !

Before returning to Port Chalmers, a grand regatta was
organized to take place in George '^ Sound, chiofly in the
i.vterests of the sailors. Numerous races \. yp arranged for
them, including the firemen, and it was pleasant to find
that no leas than £50 had been subscribed amongst us for
the well-earned prizes, for officers and men alike do their
very best to make this a pleasant time to every one on
board.

One race consisted of three boats with four young ladies
in each, representing, respectively, Christchuroh, Wellington,
and Dunedin, the prizes in this case to be pretty silver
brooches, shaped like oars, with the name of the ship,
Tarawera, engraved upon them. But the real excitement
of the afternoon was the " Han'ow boys versus Australians."

The latter were so very " superior " and so absolutely
sure of victory, and the former so modest and so sure that
they could not win, seeing that the Australians had already
practised together whilst t! ^ Harrovians were a "scratch
lot" (two of them over forty years of age) who had never
rowed together before. As the Australians, moreover, had
the best and lightest boat, and got the insid6 place in
rounding the buoy which marked the turning point in
the course, there seemed absolutely no hope at first for

■

•il

KALEIDOSCOPE.

' , '^

\ (

our poor Englishmen. They " played," however, a splendid
'* losing game," and actually won by sheer phick, coming in
firs'j by about a quarter of a boat's length amidst the
frantic cheers of all the English on board. It was far
more exciting than any University race I ever saw rowed.
I dou't believe there was a penny upon the race. It was
sheer patriotism with us all, and an overwhelming desire
that the " old country " might hold her own against colonial
"bounce." To my horror I saw one of the Harrovians (a
delicate man) throw up his oar in the air before the winning-
post was gained, and in my ignorance did not understand
that this was done merely by way of claiming the race,
because he had just noticed that the cox of the Australian
boat had quietly leant forward and was pulling for the
" stroke," who had given in. Fortunately tlie victory by
this time was assured, but I was amused, when the English-
man afterwards reproached his adversary for doing such a
thing, to hear the latter reply quite calmly and evidently
with no sense of shame : " Dear me, had you only just
noticed it ? Whij, I had been pidliny for him half the time."
On our return to Port Chalmers I spent a few delightful
days in the beautiful house overlooking Dunedin Harbour
belonging to a member of the New Zealand Government.
He and his charming and interesting wife gave me the
kindest welcome, and a hospitality that sounds quixotic to
our prosaic English ears. The house seemed literally to
be made of india-rubber so far as the bedrooms were con-

NEW ZEALAND.

the
c to
to
oon-

cerned at any rate, for in addition to a very large home
party, strangers seemed to turn up at every meal, and to
the last day of my stay I could never quite realize who
was and who was not, sleeping in the house. When I
mention the fact that the whole number of our fellow-
passengers on board the Tarawera were invited to a
garden party on the afternoon of our return, it will give
some idea of their princely instincts of hospitality — instincts,
moreover, involving no inconsiderable amount of trouble
where domestic seiv'ice is on so small a scale compared
with our own, and requires so much supplementing by
the members of the household.

Taking another U. S. C. boat for Wellington, I left
Uunedin on a day of drenching rain, and after spending
some hours in Christchurch, where the vessel put in,
reached Wellington on the second day, Friday, January
27th There I was met by a kind friend and her husband,
who ha.' spent eight years in the town previously, and knew
every rook and corner of it, a great advantage to the
visitor of a few days.

The Wellington harbour carries off the palm, I think,
even in this country of beautiful harbours. It is surrounded
b}/ high hills, and the entrance is cpiite concealed, giving
tlu! effect of a lovely large lake. The town is very hilly,
and almost entirely built of wood, including Government
House, the Houses of Parliament, and tlie Government
buildings, said to be the largest wooden buildings in the

KALEIDOSCOPE.

I' ■

world. Parliament was adjourned at the time of my visit,
so I had no opportunity of comparing matters here with
the Australian Houses of Legislation.

The favourite expedition from Wellington is to the Lower
Hutt, a distance of ten miles by rail, along a very beautiful
sea-coast line. In McNab's gardens, a mile from the station,
we found some specimens of very rare palms and other trees,
and also a number of the " Nekau " palms. In these latter,
the leaves grow only at the very top of the tree, but about
half-way up is a band of scarlet seeds dropping from the circle
of the tree-trunk.

The Wellington climate, during my short experience, struck
me as extremely relaxing, and a young lady friend with
whom I went later to the hot springs, and who had spent
five months in this town, fully indorsed my opinion. The
Wellington wind is proverbial. It is said that you can
always recognize a Wellington man in any quarter of the
globe, by the way in which, from long habit, he will always
walk about clutching his hat with one hand ! It is still
worse for an unfortunate woman, but every one is in the
same plight, and one has to become reconciled at last to being
literally blown into a friend's house with touzled hair, hat or
bonnet coming off one's head, and a wisp of gown and
petticoat impeding the " pilgrim's progress."

Making a very good second to my terrible experience
between Hobart and Sydney, comes the recollection of our
passage from Wellington to Auckland in the Takapuna, a

NE\Y ZEALAND.

\ i

ice

boat originally constructed simply as a mail-boat, 900 tons,
with engines of 2,000 horse-power ! The shaking and
plunging under these circumstances can be better imagined
than described. I believe one would have suffered on such
a boat in almost any sea, but we came in for a stormy night
on the north-east coast of the North Island. Even the
stewardess succumbed, and said she had never closed her
eyes all night.

About noon of the following day we reached the desolate-
looking township of New Plymouth, and anchored there to
land cargo, a quiet hour of rest between the beginning and
ending of our misery.

On the second day out, at 8.20 A.M., we made Manakau
Harbour, and landed at Onehunga. Three-quarters of an
hour by train took us across the narrow tongue of land
dividing this harbour from Auckland, where we put up, and
found comfortable quarters at the well-known Star Hotel.
Here at long last, after an eight months' search, I found my
travelling companion, who had recently returned from Samoa.
It was quite a case of " Livingstone and Stanley " taken with
female parts. However, by this time, I had a young lady
with me who wished to see the hot lake district before
returning to England, so it was settled that my other friend
should return to Sydney, leaving us to follow at our leisure.
A few days of rest in Auckland gave me the chance of seeing
something of the town, which is very hilly, as is the case
with all New Zealand towns. The shops are good and

KALEIDOSCOPE.

handsome, and we were especially delighted with the
Public Library, which is in every respect excellent, and to
which Sir George Grey's collection forms a great addition.

A long and beautiful drive in the company of a gentleman
who had , been born and lived all his life in the Colony gave
us the chance of seeing the various places where our troops
had been encamped during the Maori War. There are
numerous hills of volcanic origin around Auckland, and
these were cut out into fortifications during the war by the
natives. We drove all round the bay, and across the
narrowest part of North Island from Onehunga to Auckland,
passing the site of the old barracks, which were situated
close to the present Public Library. The most celebrated
spot near Auckland is Mount Eden, the bourne of all
holiday-makers and every tourist. From the top of this
steep hill a magnificent view of the harbours of Auckland
and Manakau and of the whole " lie " of the country can be
obtained.

Of course the district of the Pink and White Ten-aces
affords little to interest the traveller since the terrible
volcanic eruption of 1886. Still, we felt bound to go and
see for ourselves " how little remained to be seen," and I do
not regret the expedition. The "geysers," at any rate, remain
as they were, and, having been over the Yellowstone Park in
Wyoming, it was interesting to me to be able to compare
the two districts.

Moreover, the mosquitoes at the Star Hotel were becoming

■ ■i^ w » i i> v i • •• '■ '

NEW ZEALAND.

and
do

>ain
in
are

rampant, and we fondly clung to the hope of leaving them
behind us there.

We left Auckland one morning at 8 A.M., and after a
dreary and uninteresting journey, reached Oxford, our resting-
place for the first night, at 4.30 P.M., and found a pleasant quiet
inn there. Being a very nervous sleeper, and having passed
many nights of mosquito misery, I put our hostess through
a regular catechism, much to the amusement of my friend.
Our little whitewashed rooms looked into a square sort of
yard, where cocks and hens abounded, and a huge dog was
disporting himself amongst them. " Have you many mos-
quitoes here ? " I asked first, with a lively recollection of
past tortures. " Do the cocks crow very early in the morn-
ing ? " " Does your dog bark all night long ? " I believe
the woman thought I was a harmless lunatic being " taken
around " for my health, but I felt that it was so easy, when a
fellow-sufferer, to sympathize with poor Carlyle's nervous and
apparently fooiish dread of anything on the earth beneath
or in the heavens above that could by any possibility disturb
his night's rest. Only those who know by bitter experience
the torture of constant sleepless nights, should be allowed to
criticize the poor Chelsea philosopher on this point.

Next morning we were up and off by coach at 7.30 A.M.
for Ohinemutu on Lake Rotorua. Our way led through a
very beautiful bush, full of the lovely tree-fern and many
other specimens, notably the one called Prince of Wales's
feathers, which is very rare, growing only in one .«pot of this

KALEIDOSCOPE.

'J.

bush. It is very feathery and graceful, from one to two feet
in height and about six or seven inches wide. We reached
the Lake House at Ohinemutu at 12.30, having changed
our driver en route, and being severely shaken and jolted in
consequence, for the road was much the same all along our
journey. The horses seemed to recognize in a moment the
difference of hand. I could scarcely have believed that a
driver could have so much power in his hands to save or
to inflict suffering, although I can remember a similar
experience in the Yosemite Valley.

This district is famous for sulphur and other medicinal
baths, and as there are bath-houses attached to the hotel, we
were glad to avail ourselves of the luxury after our tiring
drive, instead of going at once to the Sanatorium, which lies
at some distance from the Lake House.

Next day, three of us started in a buggy for a long weary
drive of twelve miles across a scorchmg country, to Tiketere,
where the boiling black mud-pots are situated. These are
quite as large as those in the Yellowstone Park, but do not
possess the same beautiful colouring, being only black and
the very darkest shades of brown. The sulphur fumes were
almost unbearable, and we were glad to take shelter in a
very neat and clean little wJiare or hut made of flax,
belonging to our guide. Here we ate our lunch, and then
walked up ^ steep hill to get a view, finally driving on to
" Whakarewarewa," where we saw some geysers which
delighted my companion, who had had no previous geyser

NEW ZEALAND.

91)

experience, but seemed to me very small as compared with
those in the Wyoming district. The charm of this un-
pronounceable place, however, lies in the glimpses one gets
of Maori life and the native %v'harcs. The Maori element
is dying out so quickly nowadays that it is only in such
places as these that one comes across it.

We went to call upon the famous " Sophia," who was out at
the time, but whom we met later in the afternoon — a bright
and intelligent-looking woman of about fifty years of age.
Since the destruction of the Terraces, poor Sophia's occupation
is gone, for, as most of my readers will know, she was the guide
to this district, and is not allowed to poach upon the pre-
serves of geyser district guides. This is reasonable enough
no doubt, but it seems hard that tlie poor woman should
lose her employment whilst still in the full vigour of her
strength. Her ovhare looked very clean and neat, the
beds being arranged on the floor as in an Indian house. A
brigh c boy of twelve, Sophia's youngest hope, was sitting on
the floor when we came in, but his mother was not at home.
One of us having a visiting card at hand, we wrote our
names upon it, and left it rather as a joke. Sophia was quite
equal to the occasion. We met her the same afternoon and
had a little talk, saying we had been to her xoluirc. Next
day to our great amusement we were told that Sophia wished
to see us, and we found her sitting in the passage, looking
most dignified and composed. " I have come to return your
call," she said, in the prettiest English, and with the bright

u 2

100

KALEIDOSCOPE.

. :'

smile and little backward toss of the head which are so
characteristic of her. Her manners in their quiet dignity
and self-possession would do credit to any London drawing-
room, and I felt quite shocked when a gentleman of our
party suggested her going into the kitchen and asking for
some beer as a point to the interview ! It seemed such a
terrible collapse, but she smiled, wrapping her shawl round
her with unconscious native grace, and took the hint, and I
have no doubt drank her beer with the air of an empress.

At the Sanatorium, which is much frequented, guests can
be taken into the house (on certain conditions) for two
guineas a week. The smell of sulphur would be too over-
powering for many visitors ; but to invalids, unable to walk
to and fro, such an establishment must be a great boon.

Of the various baths here, "the Priests" and "Madame
Rachel " are two of the most popular. The former is more
especially used for skin affections, and is said to produce an
eruption in many cases where it is not taken under medical
advice, so we carefi.My avoided this, but had more than one
" Madame Rachel " bath, which gives a very gentle and re-
freshing sensation, and leaves the skin for the time dazzlingly
white and soft.

Another day we were up early, and off by 8 A.M. to the
Waitapo Valley, a beautiful drive of more than eighteen miles
through bush and over fern-covered hills. The road, wonder-
ful to relate, is excellent. We walked for some distance
up the valley to .see a very beautiful small green lake, and

NEW ZEALAND.

101

on our return journey climbed an easy fern gully to get a
view of Mount Tarawora and the scene of destruction. I
should strongly recommend this expedition to ladies, in place
of attempting the far more arduous, and for them less inter-
esting, journey to the foot of the Terraces. The latter entails
a very rough ride of ten miles on horseback, then a row across
the lake of eight miles, and at the last only a view of the
rough crags and boulders that have fallen from the mountain-
side, and enveloped the reaches of ground where the beautiful
Terraces once existed. These are said to be forming again,
but had only reached about two inches in height when we
were there.

If a woman is strong enough to climb Mount Tarawera,
descend, and accomplish the return journey in the same day,
of course she can do so ; but even strong men find their
strength severely taxed now that the conditions are so
entirely changed. In the Terrace days, the ride from
Ohinemutu to the foot of the lake was far easier than it
is now when partially destroyed by debris, and there was
then a house of rest and entertainment at the latter place,
from whence the mountain ascent could be made at leisure.

The fern gully I have mentioned was about five miles
from Waitapo on the return journey to Ohinemutu, where
we were staying. On emerging from it on to the grassy
hills we came upon a weird scene of desolation. Immediately
in front of us rose the white scarred sides of Mount Tarawera,
the crater which is on the side of it, distinctly visible and

ii'

i I

102

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Shi.

M ii

still smoking. Many of the trees around are still white with
the rubbish and deposit from the volcano, which poured forth
lava for a distance of several miles at the time of the eruption.
The gi-ound all round the mountain was charred and whitened
with volcanic ;eposits, and the famous Tarawera rose up
grim and desolate and forbidding. Yet the whole weird
scene held me with such fascination that I could scarcely
tear myself away from it, when my companions had at length
exhausted their curiosity. The site of the Terraces is on the
further side of the mountain from where we saw it, but they
are now absolutely ingulfed by the (Uhris of the awful
catastrophe. The glory of the district has certainly departed
with them. I do not think it ran now compare for interest
with the Yellowstone Park The geysers are far inferior
both in number and size. 7he mud-pots, although large, do
not approach in beauty to those in Wyoming, simply because
they have no charm of colour, whereas the latter give you
every varying shade from faintest cream to deepest rose and
red, and there is nothing now here worthy to be mentioned
for natural beauty with the glorious Yellowstone Canon. On
the other hand, however, the native Maori element makes
such a place as the geyser district of Whakarewarewa far
more interesting in many ways than Wyoming.

On our return to Auckland we made friends with a very
delightful man, the head of a South African brotherhood,
who had come to New Zealand for a year's change after his
arduous missionary labours at his responsible post. He was

NEW ZEALAND.

1U3

one of the brightest, most simple-minded and most
joyous " Christiana " it has ever been my good fortune to
meet, full of sympathy for the pleasures and lives of otliers
differing so entirely from his own, and absolutely free from
any tinge of " superiority " in manner or thought. He
seemed to me to recognize far more deeply than most people
are able to do, that the world is made up of various elements,
and that the best possible life for one man may be the worst
possible life for another. Himself a celibate, but without a
touch of asceticism, I fancy few young people would find
truer counsel or more loving sympathy with the marriage
state than with him — so long as it was a case of " true
marriage," and not a mere conventional bargain.

We went with him one morning to Auraki, across the
harbour from Auckland, to see a Maori settlement and
" Chief Paul," a smiling, grizzled fat old chief of sixty-two,
who reigns here suj)reme. The latter showed us with great
pride a wonderful native war canoe made from the trunk of
a tree. It is eighty feet wide, and is capable of holding fifty
natives, who propel it by small single paddles on either side.
He told us that it had raced the gig of the Nelson man-
of-war, but we were left in doubt as to which won, and
were too polite to ask. The chief's house is distres?' ly
European-looking, a neat little white wooden cottage with
green blinds and a regular " best parlour " for the sitting-
room.

We had some talk with an old Englishman (Rogers by

104

KALEIDOS^OPi:.

name) who was sitting on a 'oench in the sun. He has lived
hero alone for some years, not able to speak a word of Maori,
and being the only European amongst them. Communica-
tion must be carried on by signs, for even the chief can
barely pronounce one or two English words. The poor old
man seemed quite content to end his life in these queer
surroundings. He keeps a few chickens and a pig, and
manages to support himself in some mysterious way. He
has sons in the Colonies, but has lost sight of them. " They
don't care to look me up, for fear I should want something
from them," said the poor old man. It seemed very hard
that they should leave him to live and die amongst these
natives.

Froude has written so powerfully and exhaustively upon
the financial position of New Zealand, that it would be absurd
to attempt any supplement to or comment upon his remarks.
But as I only propose to giv^ my " impressions " for what
they a. i worth, I cannot quit the subject of New Zealand
withoL recording the strongest one of all — namely, that
rightcoiA 'ess (in its literal sense of right-doing) is (putting
matters n the lowest ground) incomparably the "best
policy."

In no country in the world, I think, does this old copy-book
morality stand out in such letters of living fire, nor does
Matthew Arnold's " law that makes for righteousness " teach
us more plainly what are even the temporal penalties of

'I >:

ignormg it.

NEW ZEALAND.

105

The political corruption and the consequent bankrupt con-
dition of tlio country speak for themselves. Here, where
politicians are paid servants to the Government, and have,
moreover, much to gain besides their seats, to be a " member
of the House " is not only a laudable ambition btit a very
decided worldly advantage, and in too many cases it is
practically ' jnrjht. A man lets his constituents understand
that if elected he will obtain a grant of Government money to
be expended in that special district. This is too often spent
upon perfectly useless improvements — railways that nobody
requires, or bridges that nobody uses. I have myself seen
bridges which had been in course of construction for years,
the early part of the work absolutely rotting before the latter
part was finished. As nobody seemed to want the bridge when
completed, this was of minor importance. The great object
seemed to be, that money should be spent in the town or
district, so that each man might have a better chance of
" pickings," and making his own " little pile " out of the
general sura of useless expenditure. The result of this policy
is that the country is now in a rotten financial condition, and
men are at last waking up to the fact that the interests of
the individual cannot in the long run be divorced from the
interests of the community, and that St. Paul's command,
" Look not ev^ ry man on his own things, but every man also
on the things of others," is quite as sound a maxim in
political economy as it is in Christianity.

CHAPTER IV.

VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

A shaky boat-The Bay of Islaiuls-Sydney once more-A visit t<3
Queensland-A month at Eton Vale-Life on a head station-
Bnsbane-Off to China-A deli^ditfu! steamer-Townsville-
Tropical heat-Port Darwin-Torres Straits-The Philippines-
Hong Kong Harbour-Beauties of the town-Canton-A hospitable
friend-Pagodas and bazaars-A Chinese cenietary-Visit to a
Chinese family « at home "-Deformed feet a murk of social standing
-Chinese babies-The mosquito plague-The Peak at Hon- Kon--!
A coolie "strike"_The far-famed P. and 0. line-Shanghai-Tha
Cathedral-Crops and climate-A strange conveyance-Visit to a
Chinese orphanage-Chinese commercial morality— The Chinaman
" not so black us he's painted "-Cliinese civility verms Irish insolence.

My return voyage from New Zealand to Australia was a
far more bitter experience than the trip from Melbourne to
the Bluff had been three months previously.

This time we sailed from Auckland direct to Sydney in a
very good but extremely " shaky ^' boat, the Itotomahana.
It was not reassuring to hear that bets were constantly made
on board her that even on the calmest day no man could
hold a glass of wine in his hand without spilling it, owing to
the unusual amount of vibration.

The law of compensation, however, worked even here, for

VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

107

the Botomahana has the very kindest captain in the world
(Carey), who seems to be universally popular. We reached
Russell and the Bay of Islands early on the morning after
our start, and had a pleasant walk whilst the ship remained
for coahng. The Bay of Islands is extremely beautiful, a
small edition of the Thousand islands on the St. Lawrence.

We will draw a veil over the next few days of misery
(relieved only by the extreme kindness and thopghtful care
of our captain), and, passing over a happy week spent with
kind friends in Sydney, I found myself by the end of
February en route for a visit to Queensland by the newly
opened railway. A rail between Sydney and Brisbane had
been partially open for some time, but the entire connection
had only recently been made ; thus sparing the very rough
passage by sea to those who, like myself, are extremely bid
sailors,

I left Sydney at 5 p.m., crossing the beautiful Hawkesbury
River in a steam ferry by moonlight, and getting at once into
the "sleeper," in which I had engaged my berth beforehand.
Armadale was reached by noon next day, after passing through
a part of tlie country called New England, where the atmo-
sphere was cool and pleasant, even during this summer
month. The scenery all along this line is beautiful, quite
.urpa^sing anything I had yet seen in Australia, with
the exception, of course, of such districts as the "Blue
Mountains."

We passed thousands of gum-trees, naturally, but these

lOS

KALEIDOSCOPE.

were diversified by hills and reaches of excellent pasturage.
The extreme greenness of the latter, in spite of the hot
summer weather, struck me very much, and was suggestive
of heavier rains here than elsewhere. Not wishing to arrive
at my friend's house in the dead of night, I had arranged
to sleep at Warwick, a quaint little commercial town, from
whence three hours by train next day, over the famous
Darling Downs, brought me in safety to Cambooya, a little
railway-station within two miles of the well-known Queensland
" head station " of Eton Vale.

The property is owned by Sir Arthur Hodgson, whose
name will be familiar to most readers as having been, with
Sir Patrick Jennings, one of the earliest pioneers of Queens-
land. A son of Sir Arthur is the present manager of the
estate, and he and his wife (an old friend of mine) were my
kind and hospitable host and hostess during a very happy
month of rest and enjoyment in their beautiful home.

I fancy the house at Eton Vale must often bring a shock
of pleasant surprise to those who enter its hospitable walls
expecting the typical " station " of whitewashed walls and
scanty furniture, and find a perfectly appointed English
home, artistic and beautiful, even to its smallest detail. The
single story and the wide twelve-foot veranda all round the
house alone reminded one that this was Queensland, and not
a charming country house in England.

A large head station is like a small village. It possesses
its own school for the children of those employed on the

VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

109

station, various cottages for what we should call "the
labourers " on the estate, " boundary riders," &c., and a
comfortable wooden hut to receive any stray travellers who
may arrive at any hour of the day or night. The hospitality
of a head station includes a night's lodging to any one who
asks for it, and a regular allowance of rations, so much meat,
bread, tea and sugar, &c., to each individual. Remarking
that this boundless hospitality must be a severe tax, my host
explained to me that here as elsewhere there are two sides
to a question, and that often they were glad to keep a " sun
downer " for a week or two when extra hands were required.
On this large station, owning over 100,000 sheep, the
shearing sheds are six miles from the house, fortunately for
my lady friend, who is thus spared all the ceaseless worry of
superintending the housing and feeding of the numerous
shearers during this busy time.

This favoured spot has the best climate in Queensland,
being situated some 1500 feet above the sea-level, and most
certainly the best climate I have expeiuenced in the Colonies
generally.

Even during my summer visit (March) with a thermometer
ranging from 74° to 8G° in the shade, the mornings and
evenings were generally cool and the heat is dry ; not wet
and relaxing like Sydney. Perhaps for once the weather was
" exceptional " in a favourable sense of the word, and doubtless
the heat is greater in January than March ; but the " Darling
Downs " must be considered superior to any other part of the

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district, for the nearest market town of Toowoomba is quite a
sanatorium for the poor sun-scorched sufferers on tlie jjlains
where Brisbane is situated, at a distance of only seven hours
by train from Eton Vale.

This vale is an extensive stretch of smiling and lovely
country, surrounded by "green hills, far away," with fine
pasturage of lucerne, " blue grass," &c., &c., and has the very
loveliest clouds and sunsets that I have seen away from Egypt
and California.

My stay had been prolonged owing to the delay in the
start of the China Navigation Company's ship Changsha,
in which my friend and I had taken passages for Hong Kong,
and which was sent into quarantine on her arrival from China
owing to the usual outbreak of small-pox on board. This, I
believe, is an almost constant occurrence when ships come
from the Celestial Country. However, all pleasant things
have an end, and only too soon I found myself in the train
for Brisbane, where we arrived at ten o'clock one night, after
a wearisome seven hours' journey.

Brisbane is a bright, pretty, clean-looking city, with some
fine buildings, some lovely Botanical Gardens, and one of the
most beautiful drives in the world, up " One Tree Hill."

Of course we saw all these before starting the last day of
March for Hong Kong. All large steamers touching at
Brisbane anchor in Morctou Bay, several miles from the
city. This gave us the chance of seeing the pretty scenery
of the River Brisbane en route, but as some influential

VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

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passengers on board the tender insisted on being landed for
an hour or two half-way, we only reached the Changsha
at 2 P.M., almost famished, having left our homes at 7.30 A.M.,
and of course without any notion that food would be required
for such a short trip.

However, we found an excellent lunch on board, and I
have never experienced greater comfort on board any steamer
than was our lucky experience on this China Navigation hne.
I had been strongly warned against it, as an " unhioton line
and sure to he heastly," by many of those who pin their faith
to the P. and O., and can imagine no comfort or convenience
outside of that time-honoured Company's ships. I can only
repeat that I have never met with so much kindness, comfort,
and cleanliness on board any ship as the Changsha.

The crew and stewards are all "China boys," quick and
attentive. The food is excellent, and the cabin accommodation
has been planned for human beings, not for pigs, as one
might imagine in going over some of the popular steamers of
more famous lines.

We were very fortunate also in our captain, who treated
us more like guests than passengers, begging that " we would
ask for anytJiing we wanted at any time, and it would be
brought to us if practicable."

There was no stewardess on board, but her services were
barely required, for after a day and a half of rough weather,
we got into calm seas, and floated along day after day on a
sea of glass— most ideal from a bad sailor's point of view.

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There is only one drawback to this delightful voyage from
Brisbane to Hong Kong — namely, the tropical heat which
one must endure for the greater part of the three weeks'
voyage.

We touched at Townsville and Cookville, and in seven
days reached Thursday Island, a very pretty place, where we
landed and made great bargains for the large and beautiful
oyster-shells with iridescent gold rims for .,-ich this island is
celebrated, the pearl fishery being carried on here to a large
extent. After this, the heat became daily greater, reaching
1(10° in our cabins, at Avhich point I "struck," and slept in a
hanmiock on deck. The culminating point of our sufferings
through heat was reached after passing through the Gulf of
Carpentaria and anchoring at Port Darwin, where we were
obliged to stay for two days, discharging and taking in cargo.

Mattresses were placed for us all on the upper deck, where
we lay side by side — a curious medley of husbands, wives,
spinsters, and bachelors. The first night was a brilliant
success, but on the second night of our stay, a heavy storm of
rain came on quite suddenly about 2 A.M. No one liked to
make the first move, as we all felt a little shaky on the score
of "costume," but the drenching rain soon settled matters,
and in two minutes we were all flying down the companion
ladder, dragging our bedding after us as best we might.

Port Darwin lies on a low, flat bit of the coast of South
Australia, as it is rather absurdly called.

There is a good pier, and the townsliip (Palmerston) has

VIA CUINA TO JAPAN,

113

some pretty, low Governnient buiUliug.s. The towu is more
Chinese than European, and is very quaint and original, with
a broad main road, lined on either side by Cliinese and
Japanese shops and buildings.

Our afternoons were spent on the veranda of the Governor's
house, where a little cool breeze was sometimes to be
found — a great boon with the thermometer at 105° in the
shade.

On again through the Torres Straits, and in five days we
had once more "crossed the line" and returned to the northern
hemisphere.

It seemed quite like "coming home again" after eight
montl.s in the south.

Passing the Sulla Islands, and later, to our left, Basilau
(thirty miles in length, with a town plainly visible called
Port Isabella), we came upon the most southerly point of the
Philippines — Spanisli settlements with a population in all
of seven millions.

These islands are well wooded, and looked very fertile
and lovely, possessing the additional attraction of insuring
us smooth waters, for we were land- sheltered during
more than twenty-four hours spent in pai^sing through
them.

Even tlie Cliina Sea treated us well on this occa.sion, and
I felt quite grieved to be leaving the dear old ship, when
at last, "twenty-two days out," we sighted the beautiful
approach to the harbour of Hong Kong. Many of us thouglit

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

this harbour even more beautiful than Sydney Harbour,
because the colouring is so much more varied. The sur-
rounding hills are high, and rather bare of vegetation, but
this is fully atoned for by the rich deep reds and browns of
the colouring of the soil, where patches of the grass have
been cut up.

The passage at one point is very narrow, just before turning
the comer, whence to the left lies the island of Hong Kong,
upon which the town (Victoria) is situated.

Numerous Chinese junks were in harbour as we steamed
in ; ramshackle-looking wooden boats with sails made of
matting and bamboo ribs — very heavy and uncouth, and
difficult to reef, one would imagine.

A little steam launch belonging to the Hong Kong Hotel
took ourselves and our baggage to the wharf, about a mile
and a quarter from the ship, and thence a few moments' walk
brought us to the hotel, a very fine one, all inlaid with
encaustic tiles.

But, oh the heat ! Damp, enervating, oppressive, de-
pressing. Hong Kong is said to have a perfect climate
during three months of the year — namely, December,
January, and February. April is early for such heat as
we experienced, but the summer had come on suddenly,
taking every one by surprise, and there had been no time
even to put up the punkahs, which had been so great an
alleviation to our sufferings on the Changsha.

Despite the overpowering heat, we took " chairs " on the

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115

first afternoon of our arrival, to see something of the beauties
of Hong Kong.

These chairs, made of bamboo, are slung upon very long
poles, which rest on the shoulders of one man at each end.

A very heavy person, however, requires three or even four
coolies to carry his chair, especially up the steep hills of this
city. The jinricksha is also to be found here, and is a
much pleasanter kind of conveyance ; for a chaise a portcurs
always conveys the impression that one is turning one's
fellow creatures into beasts of burden. The jinricksha is
also drawn by one or more coolies, who run between the
wooden shafts ; but the effort appears far less than with the
chair. The former, however, is quite useless except on fairly
level roads, and on this account has never become general
in Hong Kon<jr.

We stopped first at the beautiful gardens overlooking the
harbour, where Parsees, Hindoos, Chinese, and Japanese were
strolling about in their picturesque costumes ; many of the
men acting as kindly nurses to the puny white-faced
European children. Then we paid a visit to the English
cathedral, a bare, barn-like building, only relieved by a little
good painted glass, but picturesquely situated on high ground
amidst the luxurious green of the steep winding lanes that
run up from the sea to form the romantic town of Victoria.

Wishing to make sure of seeing Canton, we decided to go
on there next day, and I made inquiries from one of the
partners of a well-known house to which I had brought

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letters, as to the possibility of accoinniodatiou there, as wo
wished to sj)eud at least two days in the i)lace. He en-
lightened my ignorance by announcing that there was no
accommodation for visitors. Tliey must either spend only a
few hours in the town, transferring to a return steamer in the
evening, or, if more fortunate, accept the hospitality of some
one of the European merchants or officials who live upon
the delightful island of Charmine. We were fortunate l
having an introduction to a most hospitable German gentle-
man who has an ideal house there, where we spent two very
delightful days.

Canton lies about eighty miles to the north of Hong Kong,
and Avc went on board the steamer Fat Shan about four
o'clock one hot afternoon. These river steamers are magni-
ficent in their appointments, the cabins are airy and well
furnished, and the cuisine would do credit to any French
chef.

The scenery going out of the harbour was beautiful, and
when the moon came up we sat on deck watching the low
banks of the river (Hong, or Pearl), and feeling very peaceful
and cool after the great heat of the city.

At ten o'clock the steamer anchored for the niisht, con-
tinning its journey at daybreak, when I peeped out of our
cabin window (for these steamers have real windows) and felt
much excited by a sight of our first Chinese pagoda. We
passed quite close to two of these on the river's bank before
reaching Canton, one 170 feet, and the other 200 feet, in

VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

117

height. Every one is familiar witli the shape of these
pago(his, built in tiers of seven to nine stories, surrounded by
verandas of wood j^fiinted deep red, black, or white, and
with bells hanging round each corner of every tier.

Shrubs were growing out from the verandas, the seeds
having been dropped by passing birds.

These are religious monuments, and are supposed to bring
good luck to the neighbourhood in which they have been
raised, as they are generally dedicated to the god of agricul-
ture, showing that the Chinese have a great idea of the main
chance even in their religious observances. One of the
pagodas we passed was 600 years old, and the other about
half that age.

The greater portion of the native population of Canton live
upon the river, in tumble-down old-house boats, many of
which are permanently moored along the river-side.

In this way, they escape ground rent, although a small
tariff is exacted for river dues. Others have built themselves
small wooden huts which are supported upon high wooden
piles above the water-level. In these cases, I suppose a boat
might be kept by a whole terrace, and "jobbed" for purposes
of transit.

Of all miserable, filthy towns — of all ramshackle, tumble-
down, desolate-looking holes for houses — I think Canton could
jrive lonsf odds to any other corner of the earth.

Our kind friends, having been warned of our arrival, sent
down a young friend to meet us, and we soon found " chairs,"

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coolies, and guiJo ; the latter having a long grey pigtail, and
his own chair and bearers !

You pay hero at the rate of nO cents a day to each bearer,
three of these being required for each chair. One stout
gentleman of our party was obliged to take on a fourth coolie,
as his three struck work very soon after our start.

The dollar in China and Japan is oidy worth three shillings
instead of four, so that locomotion after all is very cheap in
both countries.

We went all through the bazaars, which appear to stretch
out for endless miles of narrow, smelling lanes, and are much
like those of Cairo and Constantinople, only far more dirty,
and with less tempting wares displayed outside.

To buy the beautiful silks, embroideries, and crf-pca, which
are best obtained here, it is necessary to dive patiently into
the very recesses of these " stores," which offer no tempting
wares to the passing tra' oiler. Dead cats and dogs hang
up here as rabbits and liares would in a poulterer's shop.
They are highly glazed, and to be found side by side with
sucking-pigs, ducks, and chickens. We also saw the "weavers'
quarter," where silk-weaving goes on in looms, very much
iikeour own in structure.

The bazaars of Canton are stone-paved, very narrow, very
noisy, and very nasty.

Some of the Chinese seemed intensely interested in va, ;
others barely moved their heads as we passed. On we went,
grasping our " camphor bags " firmly in our hands, and at

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VI.\ CHINA TO JAPAN.

119

length emerged before a Chinese temple called " The Flowery
Forest Temple," where there are five hundred brazen images
representing " Genii," and three very beautiful colossal
figures of the seated Buddha, most peaceful in expression,
and reminding one forcibly of the gigantic Osiris figures in
the Temple of Aboo Siinbel in Upper Egypt. Large open
courts lead to these Chinese temples, which are built of wood,
the roofs being covered with porcelain-coloured tubing by way
of ornament, and supported by heavy wooden beams inside.

We ascended later the steep wooden steps of the " Five-
Story Pagoda," getting some weak tea and a splendid view
over Canton from the top veranda.

Each floor of this pagoda is a large oblong room of painted
red wood. Canton is a much larger city than Hong Kong,
the population being about a million and a half as compared
with the 500,000 of the latter place.

On one hill we noticed a large cemetery.

The graves are very quaint. The earth is dug out in the
form of a Moorish arch over the grave, and then faced with
stone ; the more important graves having two or three of
such arches, one within the other.

Many of these stone facings are of granite, others of deep
red sandstone.

Later in the day, we took a sampan, a boat shaped like
a diminutive " house-boat," which was most cleverly punted
by one woman, whilst a second rowed at the stern with an
oar fixed by a rope to the boat. The woman in front was a

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

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perfect marvel of strength and skill. She brought us
triumphantly through an apparently hopeless labyrinth of
junks and boats of every description ; pushed off from one,
eking on to another, and managed to steer past all in a most
miraculous manner. Once or twice, the blocks seemed hope-
less ; as much so as the narrowest part of Bond Street in the
height of the London season, and the heat during these long
pauses was overpowering ; but patience won the day, and at
length we arrived at some" steps across the river, landed, and
then walked to the house of a Chinese gentleman named
" Ho-qhat," who is always ready to welcome foreigners, and
Avas personally known to our hust. He lives in a large,
handsome house, the rooms all built in detached sections and
in open court fashion. We passed from one to another
through stone-paved courts, the rooms themselves showing
picturesque interiors full of ohjets cCart and priceless
carvings in wood and ivory, but spoilt now and again
by some hideous European chandelier or other modern
monstrosity.

Two sons were presenteil to us — one smiling and amiable,
the other very nuich the reverse. The latter refused to
shake hands, and " would have none of us." The fother
tried to atone by extra civility and attention. A liideous old
man was sent off with the ladies of the party to see a
heterogeneous collection of wives, nurses, and small children
in the " woman's quarter."

All of tiiesc were sitting or standing together in one large

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VIA CHINA TO JAPAN,

121

rgo

room. A grey-headed old lady, busy with some exquisitely
fine gold thread embroidery, was Mrs. Ho-qhat senior, and
appeared very kind and friendly, although conversation was
of course confined to signs.

She and the other wives showed the terribly dofoimed feet
typical of female China, measuring from three to four inches
in length. These are firmly bound up so that the extra
flesh bulges out from above, making the ankle look like a
horse's hock.

How the women can walk is a marvel, but they do walk,
for one of them had come down to our steamer in the
morning, and she managed to get on board without a
catastrophe, but of course by help of a stick.

A man of any social standing out here is obliged to marry
a woman with small feet for his first wife. He may please
himself the second time. Some say that the absence of small
feet in Chiria is not considered respectable, as women of a
certain class here always leave their feet in a natural state,
and may be known thereby. I trust, however, that the
liideous fashion is dying out by degrees, for we passed many
Avomen who were not deformed in this way, and they cannot
all belong to a disreputable class.

In the outer courtyard belonging to this house is a sort
of memorial chapel, the walls being covered with tablets
inscribed in Chinese characters, in remembrance of deceased
members of the Ho-qhat family.

Hence we went on to a g'-and Buddhist temple, said to be

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

the finest in Canton, " Ho-nam " by name. Here we came in
for part of the afternoon service. First a big bell inside
the building, and unpleasantly near our heads, v/as
rung. Then came the beating of a big wooden drum, and
finally twelve priests marched solemnly in, shaven and
shorn, and with yellow silk gaberdines over their ordiaa v
grey costume.

They began at once a series of genuflexions, throwii g
themselves on the ground eight or nine times, and then
mumbling out one sentence over and over again with
maddening persistency. It sounded like " Yo-te-fu-num "
repeated ad nauseam.

As nothing else seemed likely to occur, we left after this
function had lasted for an hour, and were di lighted to return
to our beautiful temporary home.

The women in China do all the hard work, and seem to
be much stronger than the men. They dress their hair in
elaborate bands and twists, made as stiff as a board with
gum and water. I fear this elaborate coiffure is only made
occasionally, for no woman could possibly dress her own hair ;
and the small wooden " collars " used as pillows support the
erection at night and keep it in order.

Here, as in Japan, the babies are curried on tlie back, being
slung by strong icd bands crossed over the shoulders, a tiny
foot coming down on each side of the mother's hips. In spite
of this impediment, the latter goes about her wor'; .'.s usual,
never for one moment considering the f ut'o livitM^" burden

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VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

123

she supports. Tlie baby swings from side to side as
the mother punts, or cooks, or rows, and a Chinese baby
from earliest infancy becomes literally accustomed to the
" ups and downs " of life, in a manner far from pleasant,
one would think. Moreover, the strain of the position
must be physically harmful, and this no doubt is the
reason why the Chinese have their legs so wide apart in
later life.

One of the horrors of our Canton visit was to imagine
what the state of the river must be with all these families
living upon it, and then to see them boiling their rice and
other eatables with the water, or dipping a tin cup over
the side of the boat, the contents of which were afterwards
thrown into the saucepan as gravy!

The heat of Canton was as great as that of Hong Kong
had been, although the thermometer was only registering 83°
in the shade ; but this damp, enervating heat is far more
depressing, and more difficult to bear, than a dry heat of
105° in the shade would be elsewhere. The mosquitoes also
were rampant, and gave one no chance of a comfortable
siesta. The most exquisite palms, the most delicious bamboo
chairs, the most interesting books — all appeared valueless
to us on account of this terrible plague , and although we loft
our kind host with real regret, it was almost a relief to set
out, as Jane Eyre did, searching for at least another foi'm
of misery.

Of course wc did not leave Hong Kong without paying

124

KALEIDOSCOPE.

a visit to the famous Peak, which is as important a feature to
the town of Victoria as " the Mountain " is to Montreal.

Many of the Europeaii residents live on the steep sides of
the Peak and the Gap, high hills at tlie back of the town,
from v\ ("^oe the harbour is spread out as a panorama beneath
our feet. he ascent is very steep, and we felt much
sympathy with our poor coolies, who toiled along manfully,
reaching the top in about an hour from the hotel below.

Ladies living on the Peak, and making the ascent daily,
say they become quite hardened, and declare that the coolies
do not really feel the fatigue at all, but this I cannot quite
believe. There is always a breeze to be had up here, and on
the evening of our visit it was almost too pliilly for prudent
lounging about, so we returned to :^e Gap — a little lower
than the Peak — and found an excellent champagne dinner
awaiting us, ordered by kind friends who had come up from
the hot city later in the day.

Every one drinks champagne in China. Morning, afternoon,
and evening, it is offered to all guests ; and even in the hotels
there is a curious fashion of making the same charge
(25 cents) for any " drink " ordered, whether it be plain soda-
water, lemon-squash, sherry-cobbler, or cliampagne.

We returned to Hong Kong by a longer but far more
beautiful road. Unfortunately the moon rose too late for us
to see much en rotUc. There was a great " strike " amongst
our coolies when our hosts told them to take us down by the
longer way. They started — 'thon chattered together — then put

VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

125

down our chairs — repeating this performance more than once.
As darkness had come on, it was anything but pleasant to
be suddenly left in the middle of the road every few minutes.
But one of our party was fortunately an old inhabitant, and
knew lu *v to manage the heathen Chinee.

" Who says no ? Shoio mc the man who says no ! " he called
out sternly, and the ringleader of the insurrection having
been pointed out, and a sort of Riot Act read over him in
pigeon-English, the others all collapsed ; and he himself being
reduced to order, we were soon hurried down the dark hill
paths at a great pace, jiassing some very handsome houses
belonging to the chief merchants of the place just before
re-entering the city.

Another day we went out to the Happy Valley, where
the European cemetery is placed. It is situated among lovely
trees, shrubs, and flowers of every description, and close by is
the Zoroastrian burial-place. A circular racecourse fills up
the rest of the Haj^jpy Valley, and high rocky hills surround
it. Above is the celebrated aqueduct load, a magnificent
road cut out of the sides of the hills, and winding along the
line of the harbour for several miles.

Making allowance for the great heat, which in summer
must be intolerable, Hong Kong far surpassed my expectations
in beauty of situation and general interest. We had only
taken in China as a means of reaching Japan, so that
everything of interest was so much pure gain to us.

I had formed what turned out to be a very true

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

conception of Shanghai, as a purely European-looking
mercantile town, and Ave had no intention of making any
long stay there, but unfortunately missed the connection by
a few hours with the French mail to Japan, and so v/ere
forced to remain a week, and then take a Japanese line.

The four days' voyage between Hong Kong and Shanghai
was made on board a P. and O. ship, and did not increase
my appreciation of that line, which is, I think, much over-
rated.

It made its reputation at a time when there was little
competition, and seems to be living upon it at present. I
heard a man say once of a fashionable London lady who
had squeezed herself and her children into a tiny house in

an irreproachable quarter of the town, that " IMi's.

would not mind living in a wheelbarrow if only it were
drawn up on the fashionable side of the street." So it is
with some people as regards steamer accommodation. Let
it be once considered chic to travel by a certain line, and
the most wretched accommodation or inferior food will be
cheerfully endured by the votaries of fashion who have the
true spirit of martyrdom, only " switched off " the right
track.

I know nothing by personal experience of the two or
three large nev.- steamers of the P. and O. line, or what
their arrangements may be, and only wish to note the
fact that other lines at least as safe and certainly as com-
fortable {e.g. the " White Star " and " Messageries Mari-

VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

127

times ") are often tabooed merely because " you meet all
the best people on board the P. and O." A friend of
mine came home from Australia lately on board the
Victoria, one out of six hundred first-class passengers.
The " Vere de Vcre " element can scarcely be very great
amongst such a crowd, and I was told, as a matter of fact,
that it was very conspicuous through absence.

It would be impossible to imagine two cities more unlike
each other than Hong Kong and Shanghai. When the
tender took us off our ship, the Ancona, we passed to
our right the junction of the two rivers Yangtse and
Whangpoo, and continued up the latter, upon which is
situated the town of Shanghai. It is thoroughly European
— handsome, thriving, prosperous, and entirely uninter-
esting, like so many people who might bo described by
similar adjectives.

Large blocks of fine stone buildings line the Yangtse
road, which fronts the river.

Here are all the great houses of business — the banks,
agencies, clubs, &c.

Many of the great bankers live with their wives and
families over the bank itself, and " mess " with the clerks,
who are all educated and gentlemanly men.

On the Sunday I Avent to service in the Cathedral, a
handsome red brick building in the Lombardo-Venetian
style. The seats are of cane and wood, which is cool for
summer, but slope backwards at an uncomfortable angle

128

KALEIDOSCOPE.

for getting out of tliem gracefully. The sermon was fair ;
the singing not so bad as it might have been, but
quite unworthy of the really fine organ ; and the congre-
gation looked prosperous ; very handsomely dressed as
regards the female portion of it — and gave one the im-
pression of great wealth. The one drive in Shanghai is
along a flat, dusty road by the river's side, passing the
water-works and also some large glass and paper manu-
factories, which have been built and allowed to remain
useless because the proper ingredients for those manu-
factures have not yet been found.

It seems a pity not to have thought out this little detail
before dabbling in bricks and mortar.

The crops here are of other grains besides rice, and remind
one therefore of England.

The grass is in splendid condition, and the crops seem most
flourishing. The temperature was quite cool, and a very
pleasant contrast to Hong Kong, but we were told that in
the height of summer Shanghai is quite as unbearable as the
former city.

The jinricksha is much more used here than in Hong
Konsc owins: to the flatness of the roads. It reminded me
of a bath-chair with a hood cut short, and sujiplicd with
shafts, between which runs the coolie, who draws you at a
capital pace.

I found later, in Japan, that with two coolies, on a fairly
good road, one could easily calculate upon five miles an hour.

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VIA CHINA TO JAPAN.

129

The most grote,„e-I„oki„. vohicle ialh^hai is^Trt
woodeu Wheel Wo., .,,o„ .„„ ^ ,„„^, ;^ -'

by the mau who pushes it along the road '^

The wheel rises up tl,rough the middle of the boaid ,n >
: -'-^ "^ ''°"---' ^- of .ood, which 2

;7r»-,^ ''•-'« f''-"^ will go out for auaiuV:
e o these. The ,„othe, haby. and „ne other child on™
-de. two or three older ch.ldren ou the other side
««.^ pushing the primiti. carriage al The o^ '

»terestr„g part of Shanghai is the ..n.ative <,u rter hut a
SU.de and unlimited camphor-bags are nece sar v tl

the expedition, and aU "native ouarters" b

4uarters belonmno- to flm
same nat.on bear a strong fan,ily litcnes.

A Chmese orphanage situated about six miles from the
fity, and established by FronH, T„ ; ■
much. "^"'""'' ""™^"=<' ■« very

Two or three pleasant-leohing French nun. showed „.

ver the arge buildings. Which are i^ept in perfect!
and looked very clean and neat.

Some of the inmates are tiny babies, foundlings left at
or brought to the doors-others are older

There is also an infirmary for the old and sick poor and
« any a, „.„„„„. f„r rich young Ladies who p.ay fo,. '^

ducat,on, and shew their "caste -by the th, it lefe

the aristocratic Chinese.

180

KALEIDOSCOPE.

III Cliiua, as in America, I fouml tliat the poor " heathen
Chinee " has been in some ways much maligned.

Now that the Chinese threaten to overrun the face of tlie
earth, and are being forcibly kept out of the Colonies, as
well as America, by heavy capitation fees, it seems impossible
for many Euro-)eans to give them credit fin- ant/ good
quality.

That they possess some really fine characteristics is evident
when one speaks to those who have had the most practical
experience of them.

In America I heard several instances of their faithful and
often disinterested service from those who had employed
them for years.

More than one housekeeper in Sydney told me of their
code of honour amongst themselves.

One lady said to me : " If you employ one Chinaman to
bring you vegetables you are absolutely free from importunity
with regard to any other. Sometimes a stranger will come
and ask me to buy his vegetables, but I have only to say,
' No xcantchce, other John come here,' and the man goes off
without a <^ord. They never dream of interfering with each
other in this way."

In China, as also later in Japan, every merchant I came
across assured me that he would rather do business with a
Chinaman than a Jap.

The latter arc plcasantcr in uianner, but the Chinese are
more dependable.

VlA CHINA TO JAPAN.

131

One of the best known merchants in Hong Kong said to
me upon this head : "Of course a Chinese merchant will drive
a bargain when he can, and try to get the best possible price
for his tea or other crops; but when the bargain is once
struck, and the price agreed upon, you can absolutely rely
upon his sending goods up to sample. So much so, that in
our liouses it is quite unnecessary to overlook the bulk
of the tea sent when once the quality and price have been
decided."

Possibly a few of our own merchants might take a hint from
the despised Chinaman, who is so generally denounced as the
curse and scourge of modern civilization.

It may be necessary to keep Chinese labour out of the
Colonies, and thus prevent "the dogs" from eating "the
children's meat," but it is as well to be honest about it
instead of slandering the poor wretches, as is our present
fashion.

Many of them are doubtless wicked and corrupt, but this
is not the true reason for their persecution. Proflij.ary that
spends its money royally and pays its way never gets
persecuted, not even by British respectability.

But the Chinese bring down the cost of labour in those
countries where it has hitherto fetched an abnormal price.

The Chinese have two grand and cardinal sins in European
eyes. They are too industrious and too frugal in their habits.
The first enables them to make money, the second prevents
the spending of it, and in this way large sums of money find

K 2

132

KALEIDOSCOPE.

their way out of tho country wliere Chinese labour is still
permitted.

It is ([uito natural to resent these facts and to endeavour
to put down Chinese labour and competition, but it is quite
unnecessary to excuse such action by falsehoods.

Moreover, it may be very unpatriotic, but I fear till the
end of time, masters and mistresses will prefer low wages and
civility to high wages and insolence, which is too often tho
" Irish and colonial mixture " in domestic service.

Chinese labour would have no chance, if it were not foj
class who employ it.

Why not put the saddle on the right horse by taxing
tkcm ?

This might hasten a solution of the question. In any case,
good will have come out of apparent evil, for the very fact of
Chinese competition must have had a salutary effect upon
the domestic tyrants of many a distracted householder.

ill

itc

sc,
of
on

CHAPTER V.

JAPAN.

Shanghai to Japan— Tlio AnuTiean Jrinistci wifo and dan j^'hter— Talks
about Pekin—Naf,'asaki— Temples and tortoisesliell— Tlie inland
sea— Kobe— Japanese passports— Japanese art— Arrival at Kioto —

A wet welcome— Biiddliist and Shinto temples— The two religions

Katsura rapids— Jinrickslia torture— Japanese tea— The cataracts
— Kimonas and obis— Tlie ubiquitous baiiil>oo— Shinto lanterns —
Cloisonne — A Japanese theatre— CTacww a son f)oiit — A Japanese
uideg— Trip lo Osaka and Nara— The Osaka mint— An ancient castle
— The arsenal— Modern Japan— How T mounted a Japanese pagoda-
Beautiful Nara— The sacred deer— First experience of life in a tea-
house—Primitive arrangements— No rose without a thorn— Dancing
girls in Japanese temples— A colossal Buddha— Tea gardens at Uji—
The process of manufacture— More temples— Good-bye to Kioto I
— A Japanese lake— A gigantic cedar — Steamer accommodation —
Nagoya— A grand old castle — Ancient Japanese art— Fuji-yama
—Approach to Yokohama— A Japanese frte — A Aveek at Tokio —
Imperial household department— An awkward question — The Shilja
— Tombs of the Shoguns— Similarity between Buddhism and Roman
Catholicism — The Mikado's new Palace — Hora Iviri and the iris —
Japanese Christianity and European civilization — A hint for Exeter
Hall— Landscape gardening in Japan — A native dance — The Dai
Gakko— Japanese universities — A fortunate meeting— A Japanese
Kindergarten— The roman(;e of the Ronins— Dying for a sentiment.

Having decided to take through tickets from Shano-hai to
Liverpool, via Japan, Vancouver, and the Canadian Pacific
line, it was an agreeable surprise to find that we could get

1. 1>

i :

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134

KALEIDOSCOPE,

I ^r

them for the moderate sum of £52 lO.s. Moreover, this gives
you the choice of returning either from Quebec or New York,
and by any line of steamer, with the one exception of the
North German Lloyd.

We sailed from Shanghai to Japan by a boat (the Satsuma
Maru) belonging to a Japanese line of steamers. The ship,
however, had been built at Glasgow, and was commanded by
an Irish captain.

The wife and daughter of the American Minister at Pekin
were amongst our fellow-passengers, and the former quite re-
conciled me to our great disappointment in being forced to
leave Pekin out of our programme. Time and strength had
both failed us, for we should have required ten to fourteen
days for the journey, a great part of which is over terrible
roads, in rough bullock-carts.

The real drawback, however, lies in the fact that there is
comparatively little to be seen on arrival, owing to the strict
seclusion in which the Emperor and Enqness live. Even
high foreign officials who have lived in the city for years find
it impossible to break through the "celestial" conditions.
So the ordinary traveller would stand a very poor chance.
The Emperor shuts himself up in his inner or sacred kingdom,
and sees nobody. When he vi.sits the temples orders are sent
beforehand for all foreigners to clear out.

The Empress gives receptions, but is always seated behind
a screen on these occasions, and is not allowed to show
herself

JAPAN.

13^

Mrs. Denvey did, liowever, receive a visit from the Prince
and Princess Koora whilst staying in her country house near
Pekin. He is an uncle of the Eniporor, and it is quite
against rules that these sprigs of royalty should visit foreign
ministers, but the Prince had come upon this occasion in
order to gratify his wife's urgent Avish to see a European for
the first time in her life. She took tea with Mrs. Denvey,
but had taken the precaution <jf bringing her own cup and
saucer, not being allowed to drink out of any other.

The Yellow Sea is certainly an unpleasant experience ; a
short " choppy " sea, which good sailors declare is " no sea,"
but quite enough to settle matters for bad ones.

On the second moi'iiing we came to anchor at Nagasaki
about 7 A.M., and had our first view of Japan. Nagasaki lies
at tlie head of a pretty harbour, surrounded by hills with
trees growing along their very w-ests, and reminding one
irresistibly of the Japanese tea-trays. Several Russian men-
of-war were lying in port, and likewise a largo Russian
convict ship.

After breakftist we took a s(m^>an and went on shore
being horribly persecuted by .he jinricksha drivers, wlio
pursued us on all sides, closing us in from time to time, to
tlie great indignation of an irascible German colonel, who
had volunteered his escort. We should have saved much
time, temper, and strengtli by submitting to the inevitable,
and choosing out three jinrickshfis Jit ouce, but the colonel
was inflexible, and at last we reached the post-office, worn

1 1
IB

136

KALEIDOSCOPE.

t 1

out by heat aud woiTy and tlie distracting shrieks of the Jap
drivers, interspersed with a few good strong German oaths
wrung from our companion in the desperation of the moment.
Here we gave in at length with a very hkd grace, and to our
intense relief we were soon being whirled through the bazaars,
and admiring by hasty snatches the pretty lacquer and
tortoisesliell stores, for which Nagasaki is especially famous.

We visited two temples, which seemed very much like
those we had left behind us in China. It is only in Kioto
and gorgeous Nikko that the characteristic Japanese temples
are seen in perfection. Here in Nagasaki we found the
usual gateway of pretty artistic carved wooden roofs filled in
by tiny mosaics of wood. Then came several flights of stone
steps leading into a large square, or oblong courtyard, round
all four sides of which were similar roofed-in buildings. Three
sides of the courtyard are filled by the dwellings of the
priests aud ofilcials connected with the temple, the last side
being occupied by the temple itself. In the latter is always
to be found a figure of Buddha, generally flanked by tiny
shrines looking like small cupboards, each with its small
hanging lamp kept constantly burning.

The inner sanctuary can only be approached in what
the Scotch call "your stocking feet," and in Japan no
slippers are provided, as in the Turkish mosques, for the
benefit of sightseers.

Later one became more reconciled to the nuisance of
taking off and putting on one's boots of many buttons several

^"■wpilppwp

"■ll

JAPAN.

137

„

times during the afternoon, and on many a hot day the
relief of walking on the soft straw carpets, unfettered by
the hard, unyielding leather, was so great that it became
difficult to sympathize with the "poor bare-footed creatures"
who have hitherto roused my compassion. The difference
between winter and summer must be taken into account,
but remembering the exquisite relief of those days, it still
seems to me that boots and shoes are doubtful blessings.

Leaving the harbour of Nagasaki, and passing through
the beautiful inland sea, too often, as we saw it, enveloped
in mist and cloud, two days more brought us into Kob6
harbour, wher(3 w<j were to disembark and begin our tour
through Japan.

The inland sea was not iitirely what Mark Twain
would call "a sealed book" to us, but having had a glorious
summer's evening when first entering it, on leavino- Niua-
saki harbour, we were forced to be content later with
glimpses of the exquisite islands and mountains, whicli only
served to whet our artistic ai^petite, and tantalize our
artistic senses.

One small glimpse served to show us a celebrated rr.ck,
very steep, but rather shelving, from which the missionaries
were flung into the sea when they first came over to
Japan. A fair, gentle young American girl, sitting by her
mother's side, looked critically at the rock, and thence to
a higher and far more abrupt descent from a neighbouring
crag. " That would have been such a far letter place to

!l!

138

KALEIDOSCOPE,

have thrown tliem down from," she said sweetly, looking
quite surprised when a peal of laughter greeted this blood-
thirsty remark.

Kobe lies at the bottom of an amphitheatre of pretty
green Japanese hills of a peculiar shape so well known to us
all from Japanese landscapes, and with the spur and gully
formation, already familiar to me in New Zealand. The
vegetation upon them is most luxuriant, consisting just
now (May) of exquisite roses of varied colouring, and the
beautiful, delicate rose- and lilac-tinted wild azalea.

The exploded European notion of passports obtains with
great severity in Japan. Moreover, one passport is not
sufficient— two or more are required, according to the parts
of the country about to be visited, and some of these can
only be obtained by application through your consul to
headquarters at Tokio, the present native capital of Japan.
A local passport, sufficient to take us to Kioto and Osaka,
wa.s easily obtained, and having made sure of this, we
went on to see the famous Kobe waterfall, up a pretty
winding glade, and well worth the stiff climb that leads
to it.

Coming down, we stopped at a temple, and leaving our
jinrickshas, saw a very curious religious service conducted
entirely by womt n. They were dressed in flowing garments
with wide open sleeves, and crowns upon their heads.
Most of the women were old and particularly ugly, which
probably accounted for their becoming " vestal virgins " in

JAPAN.

139

the service of the temple. The temples in Japan are
almost invariably approached through booths of toys and
sweetmeaLS, &c., reminding one of a county town fair.

Kobe is disappointing to the newly-arrived traveller,
from its thorough European look, for the native portion
of the town lies quite at the back, and is completely
hidden from the approach to it by sea. We went oil
through this native part, passing the usual numerous little
shops of curios, baskets, lacquer, tortoiseshell, &c., some
nice things, and a great deal of rubbish.

I believe that very good purchases may be made in Kobe
by the initiated, but such bargains require time and patience,
and in Japan, beyond any other country, people must be pre-
pared to pay well for what is really worth buying. The
European markets are flooded by the ocean of cheap
" Japanese curiosities," which have poured into our countries
of late years. Many of these are pretty enough, but they can
be bought in Regent Street as well and almost as cheaply as
in Japan, and the enormous demand for Japanese goods
bringing such severe competition in prices has had a very
disastrous effect upon native manufacture. Quantity has
taken the place of quality, since Europeans will not, as a rule,
pay for the latter when a similar effect can be gained at a
quarter or twentieth part of the cost.

.* !l»

' A primrose by the river's brim
A yellow primrose was to him,
And it was nothing more."

140

KALEIDOSCOPE.

To many people unlearned in native art, and not them-
selves artistic, one Japanese vase of special manufacture, size,
and decoration, is as good as another. But the initiated, who
can discriminate between mechanical and artistic labour, will
know that even under these given conditions the one article
may be worth £5 or £6, and the other will cost from £200 to
£300.

In Satsuma and Awata ware especially there is the very
widest difference between the work done by the various
artists employed. In the Awata manufactory near Kioto I
saw a very handsome vase which was bought for £7 by one of
our party, whilst another of similar size and shape, but finer
workmanship, was valued at £150.

I have been shown in England what was considered a very
fine specimen of Satsuma, and should have thought so
myself before my eye became trained in Japan by seeing work
so far superior in quality.

These finest specimens of Japanese art find their way to
England also, and may be picked up by the " collector " here
and there, but he must be prepared to pay a heavy price, with
the certainty that his purchases will only be appreciated
thoroughly by the elect few.

For myself, had I a few hundred pounds to spare, I should
have spent them in getting hold of some of the antique
fittings of the ancient Japanese temples, which can be picked
up occasionally in the less frequented parts of the country. A
gentleman of my acquaintance, who was in Japan when we

JAPAN.

141

were, was making such a collection, especially with a view
to publishing a book on the Buddhist religions of India
and Japan, and his purchases tempted me far more than
all the embroideries and china and lacquer of moderi
days.

We left Kob6 one fine afternoon about four o'clock, and
reached Kioto, the former capital of Japan, in two and a half
hours by train, passing some very beautiful and fertile country
671 route. Everything was novel to us ; the clean and yet
romantic-looking little villages, each with its tiny Buddliist
temple, the lieavily-thatched roofs of the houses, with bright
green flags growing from the top, the luxuriant crops of rice
standing deep in the water, then further on the crops of
barley, beans, and potatoes. Every inch of ground is carefully
cultivated, and well rejiays such care and energy.

Arrived at the primitive Kioto station, we took three
'rickshas (one for small baggage), and began what seemed
an endless journey to our hotel. The distance is really about
three miles, but on that cold and rainy evcninf, racinf
through endless bazaars, head well bent down, and almost
suffocated behind the hood and aprons of the 'ricksha, and
unable even to speak to each other, the time appeared to us
interminable. It seemed as if the coohes could ^:ot have
understood our instructions, and must be carrying as off
vaguely to some far distant bourne of their own imagination ;
but at last we left the straggling town behind, and then
the pace slackened, and by painful and slow decrees wo

142

KALEIDOSCOPE.

mounted tho very high hill (Maruyama), upon which is
situated the romantic Ya-ami hotel.

Kioto is a large straggling town, built right up a valley,
flanked by beautiful hills on either side. It was the capital
of Japan, and the residence of the Mikado from A.D. 793 until
after the civil war of twenty years, ago. The list of Buddhist
and Shinto temples to be seen here appears at first over-
whelming, but we managed by degrees to eliminate all that
had not some special characteristic of building, colourino-, or
situation, and managed to see a good deal in homeopathic
doses.

Sightseeing in Japan is very tiring, owing to the immense
distances between the various temples. Where the cities
themselves often stretch from seven to ten miles, it can bo
easily understood that a morning's work may cover a con-
siderable area. It would be useless and wearisome to
enumerate the many temples we visited. Most of them are
much alike, but the graceful lines of the buildings, the
amount of space they cover, and the beautiful and varied
trees growing arouad them, make the Japanese temples truly
" a thing of beauty and a joy for over."

A traveller's first attempt in Japan is to distinguish be-
tweeen the Buddhist and the Shinto temples. The outward
symbols, as well as the inward faiths, have become so minc^led
with one another that it is almost impossible to fiind specimens
of " pure Buddhist " or " pure Shinto," whilst any attempt to
understand the difference of creed seems to land one in a

f:^

JAPAN.

143

hopeless maze. Of couioo I am here referring to ordinaiy
mortals, not to such men as the friend I have mentioned, or
Mr. Rhys Davids, either of whom could no doubt give me the
most accurate information on the subject, I had the pleasure
of meeting the latter gentleman once at a hydropathic
establishment, where I remember he delivered a most
eloquent speech on my behalf as counsel in a " breach of
promise case," but having thus frittered away the time that
might have been spent in penetrating the mysteries of
Buddhism and Shintoism, I had, in these later years, to
puzzle the matter out for myself, and can only give my
readers the crude conclusions at which I finally arrived.

Shinto — " the Avay of the gods "—was tiie original faith
in Japan before Buddhism was imported from India and
China. It seems to have been more of a philosophy than
a religion, as we understand the latter word. The Shinto
temples are much plainer than those dedicated to Buddha.
They may be distinguished in various ways— by the peculiar
curve of the transverse beams of the wooden gateway
{torii), through which the temple courts are entered— by
the rows of stone or iron lanterns leading up to the prin-
cipal shrine, and last, not least, by the circular steel mirror
which is invariably found in eveiy Shinto temple, symbol-
izing the self-knowledge (the soul's reflection) which formed
the coping stone of the Shinto philosophy. They do not
appear to have had any belief in a future state, or the im-
mortality of the soul, although divine honours are paid by

'r is

]44

KALEIDOSCOPE.

1
II'

I 4

them to the spirits of famous princes, heroes, and scholars.
In fact Shintoism seems to boar a strong family likeness
to a creed that has sprung up of late years in London,
whose votaries have christened themselves "humanitarians."
Truly there is nothing new under the sun.

The Shinto priests are allowed to marry and to wear their
hair long, and can hence be easily distinguished from the
close-shaven Buddhist priest. The Shinto temples are
usually built upon commanding situations and surrounded
by groves of trees, but it is very rare to find a Shinto
temple nowadays entirely free from the colouring and
ornamentation which mark the Buddhist place of worship.
There has been so much talk of late days of "Modern
Buddhism," thanks to Mr. Sinnett and his followers, that
every one has some smattering of this creed, and some idea
of the principal doctrines involved in its adoption, so that
it is needless to enter into the subject. Roughly speaking,
it may be said that the Japanese peasant xy are rather
Shintoist than Buddhist, the dwellers in towns rather
Buddhist than Shintoist, as may be demonstrated by the
immense number of Buddhist temples in all large towns.
The thinking and reading classes are generally "indiffer-
eutists," or what Ave might call agnostics.

In one of the Kioto temples (Sangio Sanguondo, a.d.
13 50) I noticed one thousand bronze images side by side.
They appeared to be representations of a kind of female
Buddha, each with sixteen i)airs of hands coming out from

JAPAN.

145

either side, whilst a pair of smaller hands was folded across
the body of the idol. All these side hands bore various
symbols, some looking very much like the Egyptian crook of
Osiris, others resembling the " Tau " — the sign of life eternal.
Is this female Buddha the ground for Laurence Oliphant's
belief in the " Divine Femininity " ?

Near this same temple we visited a shrine where the Dai
Butzi (or great Buddha) is seen ; a colossal wooden figure,
merely interesting as showing the materialistic view of a
crude nation who considered size and power as synonymous.

As a little relief to the endless subject of Japanese
temples, I will here describe a delightful expedition which
my friend and I made to the " Katsura " rapids, in the
neighbourhood of Kioto. A glorious drive of fifteen miles,
through splendid mountain scenery covered with brilliant
green vegetation of every hue and shade, brought us to a
place called Tamba, where we were to take a boat and
shoot the rapids. Trees of wild acacia — pink, white, and
crimson — lined our road, whilst trails of the lovely wild
wistaria met us at every turn. It required all this beauty
to make up for the terrible "back-aching" torture of the
jinrickshas. Common humanity seemed to make any
" leaning back " a dream of impossible bliss, but I found
lat.jr that we need have had no scruple ca this head —
iu fact the coolies seem to prefer that one should adopt
that position, so I conclude it must regulate the balance of
the carriage more favourably for them.

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14G

KALEIDOSCOPE,

( .-1

Wo stopped half way at a " tea-house," and were glad
enough to get the little cups of Japanese tea, without milk
or sugar, which are invariably handed round on every
possible occasion. I had tasted it in the " Japanese Village "
in London, and thought it exceedingly nasty, but habit
goes for much, and fatigue for more. This green Japanese
tea, poured out of a baby tea-pot, which is constantly re-
plenished, must be strong, for it is undoubtedly very
reviving.

At Tamba we found some benches and tables roofed over
with bamboo, and here we ate our luncheon, the hostess
providing pretty little Japanese cups for the salt, mustard,
and butter. We had brought ample food for ourselves and
the four coolies, and after a short rest made our bargain
Avith the boatman for three yen (a yen, or dollar, is three
shillings here, as in China), and prepared, to shoot the
rapids, the carriages being jiacked into the boat, and the
coolies huddling themselves into a corner to get out of the
way of the three or four men required for the voyage.
The wooden boat (made from the trunk of a tree) was
extremely light, but looked rather clumsy, owing to its
great length — this is necessary, to give plenty of room for
the men to pass to and fro in punting and keeping her off
the rocks. The greatest skill is required, and the expedition
might be a dangerous one with less experienced boatmen.

We passed twenty-four or twenty-five rapids, and there is
always a certain pleasure in the " swirl " of a rapid as you

JAPAM.

147

pass over it, but on the whole the performance seemeil to me
a very mild one after an experience of Egyptian cataracts.
The scenery, however, left nothing to be desired. High hills
rose up on either side covered with trails of excpiisitc wild
flowers and flowering shrubs. The sun was intensely hot, and
so far as comfort went our seat on the narrow board across
the boat was a case of out of the frying-jjan into the fire,
compared with the jinricksha exjicrience.

Wo passed various long serpent-like rafts, ingeniously
constructed by making holes through the ends of trees and
splicing these latter together with strong whisps of bark.
Towards the last we came upon a perfect labyrinth of these
rafts, some arrived at their destination, others being equipped
to be towed along up-stream to our starting point. Very
young boys are employed in this towing business — no easy
work on these hilly, rocky river sides, where they must skip
from point to point like young goats, firmly clinging on to
the towing-ropes, which are very fine, each raft being provided
with three of them.

Arrived at our bourne (Arishiyama) we landed with our
'rickshas and paid the stipulated price. The boatman, I
grieve to say, tried to make it yen five instead of three (our
first experience of anything like extortion) but he " kotooed "
as gaily as ever when he found that we were not to be
imposed on.

The Japanese are the happiest and most smiling people in
the world, having always a joke and a kindly word for one

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148

KALEIDOSCOPE.

I '

I I:

if.

another. It is the land of poetry, but a poetry that is
absolutely practical. They do not seem ever to dream of
future possibilities. Present life is a paradise, and a paradise
of such easy attainment. A few cents — a little rice for their
chow — a little tea — et wild tout !

Certainly clothing is no great trouble or anxiety. Men
and women alike wear a sort of loose dressinfj-rrown as an
outer garment. The most highly-dressed man may wear
a sort of jersey and pair of trousers underneath this, but
many dispense wiuh both these articles, wearing only a
loin-cloth under the Idmona. Others again of the poorest
class Avear nothing but the loin-cloth, and seem just as
happy and comfortable as the rest. The women have tight-
fitting trousers and a gaily-coloured petticoat vinder the
sombre dark blue or dark brown kiraona.

A man fastens his Idmona with a plain silk sash passed
twice round the body, and tucked in at the back. The
ohi, or girdle of the Japanese women, is far more intricate,
and generally brighter in colouring. It is nearly four yards
in length and about fourteen inches wide, and is often
beautifully embroidered in fine silks. Some of these ohis
are very costly, having been bought for sums varying from
£2 to £10 each by comparatively poor women. They are
then only worn on state occasions, and handed down as
heir-looms in the family, a more modest sash replacing
them for ordinary wear.

To cii.ange an old properly is a very complicated

JAPAN.

149

business to the uninitiated, and the women themselves
take some time over the performance, which differs
slightly in different hands, but the result is much the
same, a sort of stjuare puff at the back, which takes off
the very straight look of the dress, and is a pleasant relief
to the narrow and somewhat skimpy-loolcing skirt of the
female himona.

The hideous fashion of blackening the teeth after marriage
seems fortunately to be going out very much amongst
Japanese women, especially in the more civilized parts of
the country, but here in Kioto it still obtains to a great
extent. It gives a most hideous expression to the face,
but I suppose was originally intended to keep a woman
faithful to her husband, through absence of temptation.

The most characteristic tree in Japan, as in China, is the
bamboo. It is also the most useful Drain-pipes are in-
variably made of bamboo. Houses are constructed with
bamboo interlaced, and mud tilling up the interstices.
Carrying-poles are also made of bamboo, to say nothing of
the chairs, tables, baskets, matting, &c., made of split
bamboo.

The elaborate coiffeur of tlie Japanese Avoraen is too
well known to need any description. Their hair is almost
invariably black, and generally tliick and long. It is
smeared with gum before being dressed, which gives to the
"bows" of hair the remarkably stiff look they bear. It is
the rarest thin<x in the world to see a " rouah " head of hair

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such as is common in Europe. As the poorest woman
requires the services of a "tire-woman" for this style of
hair-dressing, one has an unpleasant conviction that the
performance must be a rare one.

Another afternoon in Kioto wo visited the temple of
Kyomizu, which stands on a fine hill, comm \ ing a grand
view of the country. It is quite a pilgrimage up the steep
stony road that leads to the temple, lined on both sides with
booths containing coarse pottery, toys, and rubbish generally,
such as you might see in a third-class seaside bazaar in
England. The temple is very imposing in situation, but
rather of the "rag-bag" descrii^tion inside, full of tinsel and
old gaudy pictures, ribbons, &c.— painted or tied up as votive
oflferings by the faithful, in memory of benefits received, or in
hopes of receiving them for the future.

In one part we saw over a hundred clumsy figures of
children, with innumerable frills of coloured cloth round
their necks. When a baby or child in a family is ill, a frill
is added to one of these dummies, and " then the child gets
well again ! "

One notices that many of the stone lanterns and small
stone pagodas outside the temples are quite choked up with
stones and pebbles— another superstition.

" You throw stone— if him stick, that's good— if him fall
down, that's bad." This was the lucid description of our
guide. I suppose most of us have done equally foolish
things in our <lay, but as an acknowledged custom, of course

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151

we exclaimed, as the rest of the world would do, "How
very childish ! "

A fine avenue of bamboo trees leads from this curious
temple to the ancient one of Nishi Otani, the site of which
dates as far back as A.D. 290. It was reconstructed in A.D.
1709, and is built in excellent taste in natural cedar-wood.
The flowers, birds, &c., which ornament the walls are all
carved in this wood, whilst the gates and panels are of dull
gold, and large chests of carved wood inlaid with brass
handsomely worked fill up the various recesses. The only
two colours touched are gold and cedar, and the effect is very
striking and harmonious.

Having already mentioned the Awata ware, I need not
say much of our visit to the celebrated doisonnS manu-
factory near Kioto, but some of my readers may be ignorant
of the tedious process by which it is made. The vases, &c.,
are of copper — upon this the design is traced with the
very finest copper-wire fixed on in the shape of flowers,
leaves, &c.— which thus stand out slightly from the vase or
other article of manufacture. Then the spaces inside the
pattern are fiUeJ in by pin points of various colouring
matter, and so prepared for burning and varnishing. Some
of the work done is terribly fine, most trying to the eyes, and
of necessity extremely slow. If wages in Japan were not so
cheap (from 8s. a week downwards) it would be impossible
to sell tliesc wares even at the high prices they commaml
already.

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The most striking illustration of difference of taste lies in
my experience of a Japanese theatre compared with that of
friends I have met in this country. Several ladies in
Yokohama assured me they could not have a greater treat
than to. spend eight or ten hours in one of these native
theatres, unable to understand a word of the language, and
simply watching the slow process of some historical drnma or
tragedy dating back many hundreds of years. I made two
or three attempts to correct my own impressions, feeling sure
that these latter, not the actors, must be at fault, but I am
bound to confess that of all dreary, draughty, miserable ways
of spending an evening, a Japanese theatre still appears to
me the most detestable.

I will describe one, which will do for all. There is first a
low amphitheatre, with gallery running all round it of plain
unvarnished Avood. The dress-circle or boxes are divided, by
about three inches of wood, into squares, and the wooden
bench, without a back, is the amount of accommodation to
be found in each of these. Those who cannot find room on
the bench squat down on the ground, and certainly had the
best of it " in our box," for the draught at the back was
enough to turn a mill round. This was caused by a series of
ventilators carved into the wooden partition behind us.

The play was a most dreary, mystical one, dating back
one thousand years. First came up a knight, leading a
wonderful horse, made in pautominic fashion, by two men
covered with a horse's skin, wlio pranced and curvetted

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about in a very realistic way. As the actors usually enter
from the front instead of the back of the stage, and
walk right through the audience before arriving at
this point, one has plenty of time to criticize their
clothing and gestures beforehand, and there is no shock
of surprise given by an unexpected entrance at any critical
moment. We had next the usual big giant; in this case
" a devil " to be killed and conquered. Such a "poor devil "
as he was, too, so far as any fighting power went ! That lie
should get the worst of it was a foregone physical conclusion,
putting any sense of morality out of court.

The ancient Japanese court costumes were faithfully copied,
and these were really interesting, especially the long skirts
and trousers, lying for several feet upon the ground, which
were manipulated with much ingenuity. In one particular
the Japanese theatre is certainly an improvement on the
Chinese one, namely, that it is much quieter. There is no
shrieking or screaming, only the everlasting clapping of two
pieces of wood against each other, equally distracting to
actors and audience, one would imagine.

A guide is an absolute necessity c^ travel in Japan when
one goes beyond the larger cities, such as Kioto, Tokio, and
Yokohama. He must be not only guide, but cook and
housemaid as well, for no food is to be found in a Japanese
tea-house beyond the usual cup of green tea, and no accom-
modation with the exception of a few down quilts, which are
dragged into your room and there left to be arranged as a

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154

KALEIDOSCOPE.

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bed by your guide. Sheets, iiillow-cases, napkins, &c., must
all be taken by the traveller, in addition to the pots and pans
necessary for cooking his food, so that travelling in the country
necessitates a fair amount of impedimenta, however modest
one's personal luggage may be.

Travellers will do well to leave all heavy luggage at various
starting points, such as Kob^ and Yokohama, and make these
expeditions in the very lightest possible marching order. The
flat Japanese rush baskets, which expand and contract accord-
ing to the amount packed, are by far the best for this sort of
travelling. Thoy can be had in every size, but I should
recommend two medium-sized rather than one large one, as
the former pack better in small spaces. As these baskets can
be bought in any Japanese town, and for a few pence, no one
need grudge the expense, even if they are thrown away in a
few weeks.

Intending to make a four days' trip from Kioto to Osaka
and Nara, we made inquiries for a guide, and were fortunate
in finding a nice little fellow, Ya-ami-moto by name, who
wore European dress and glasses, and looked like a very
diminutive foreign student. His charges were, as is usual,
one yen aud a half (4s. Gd.) a day, we paying his travelling
expenses, and he finding his own food. He turned out to bo
a real treasure, and a capital cook as well.

As Osaka boasts a very fair hotel, we arranged to take
provisions, linen, &c., on from there, as it could be returned
by the coolies, who would bring us back to Kioto via Nara.

JAPAN.

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Osaka lies on the railroad between Kioto anil Kob6, and is
one of the most interesting towns of modem Japan, being
also one of the largest military stations in the country. As
Kioto is a reminiscence of old Japan, so Osaka represents the
thriving, mercantile, advanced new Japan, which is making
such gigantic strides towards modern civilization. This city
has a population of 300,000, and its present prosperity and
busy life date only some eighteen years back, when the first
railway was opened.

Our first visit Avas paid to the mint. Curiously enough I
had never been over one before, so the interest in i > y case
was not merely local. It was quite fascinating to , ..^-h the
bars of silver and copper taken red from the furnace, beaten
out, and put through the machines for cutting dollars and
cent pieces as a cook cuts her bi.scuits with a tin "shape."
Another machine stamps these from below and above simul-
taneously, by a single pressure. The coins are counted out of
large baskets full of every kind by an ingenious method,
which is probably used in every other mint, A square piece
of wood, with slightly raised rounds of the size of each
special coin, is dipped into the ba.sket and the coins put in
place by a quick movement of the hands. When correctly
filled up the board counted out fifty coins at a time.

Other men were engaged in " passing " the coins when first
cut (before stamping) to see that they are without flaw, and
finally, there is a most ingenious little instniment for weigh-
ing the coin when completely finished, to see tliat it is up

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„ )

to the standard weight. All coins go into this at the same
entrance, where there is a little scale fixed, but lower down
there are three divisions. Those that are of full weight fall
into one of these, the medium weight into another, and the
short weight into the third, tumbling out of those holes so
marked into three different receivers. All the machinery
used in the Osaka mint comes from Paris or England. There
are five hundred and fifty men employed in the building, all
of them being Japanese.

There is a fine old castle, or rather grand old castle walls,
still remaining in Osaka. It is now only a relic of the past,
none of the original building being left, but the walls are
most imposing. They remain absolutely intact, sloping down
to the steep banks of a wide moat, and are said to be more
than seven hundred and fifty years old.

All around them are at intervals placed the gracefulJapanese
minaret houses, which add so much to the general effect of
the sweeping lines of the massive grey stone walls. The
moat is generally filled with water, but was rather dry at
the time of our visit. We climbed up grassy knolls and
successions of stone steps inside the huge space inclosed by
the walls, and resting on the top of the latter looked down
on the panorama of Osaka at our feet. The lovely distant
hills formed an amphitheatre on three sides, the fourth bcino-
filled in by the deep blue sea with tiny white sails fluttering
upon its breast.

The arsenal behind the castle was our next point. This is

JAPAN.

157

a succession of red brick buildings, occupying a large area of
ground, and, like everything else in "New Japan," dating
only fifteen years back. All the huge guns are made here,
and likewise the ammunition for tiring them. In one room
nothing but machinery repairs were going on. In another,
all the bolts and nuts were made. In another long room
the enormous sides for artillery waggons are manufactured.
In another the " mounting " of the guns is carried on, and
so forth.

I noticed some beautiful little brass cannon, with the
latest improvements in the way of altering elevation and
"charging" the cannon, &c. One might have been going
over the arsenal at Woolwich. All the machinery is
European, but the Japanese have bought from any country
that could best supply their wants, and in the same build-
ing may be seen engines and machinery from Birmingham,
Dresden, Paris, and Italy. The arrangements for testing the
guns have been made by French workmen, and the different
weights and calculations are printed in French on the butts
from which the trial guns are fired.

Leaving Osaka for Nara we engaged three 'rickshas
with two coolies a- piece, and arranged to pay fifteen shillings
for each carriage, on the understanding that we should spend
two nights in Nara, and be safely conveyed from there to
Kioto, whence the coolies would return to Osaka, takinfj back
with them the linen, &c., m hich we borrowed from the hotel.
Our provisions consisted of beef, ham, chicken, two bottles of

158

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Bass, salt, pcpiDer, butter, coffoe, tea, and bread, none of
which can be iirocurcd in a tea-house.

The coolies, as usual, were strong and willing, and trotted
cheerfully along at the rate of five miles an hour. We
stopped about six miles from Osaka to see the Buddhist
temple of Tennoji (a.d. GOO), and the oldest temple in
Japan.

I made the ascent of a five-story pagoda, scrambling
through trap-doors, and up steep ladders iu semi-darkness,
until at the very top a slit in a wooden wall leads to the
outside veranda. I crawled through this on my face in
most undignified fashion, but was amply rewarded by the
glorious view of Osaka, and only regretted that my friend
had not made the ascent with me. Coming down was by far
the worst part of the performance, as each stair is simply
a long ladder approached by an open square trap-door,
through which you must get on to the ladder backwards
as best you may.

It was " nasty " work, and only the feeling that I could
not remain on a Japanese pagoda for life nerved me to
get clowii each succeeding story. Our little guide had come
Avitli b c, but was much too small and fragile to aftbrd any-
thing but moral support, which he gave by saying dismally
at each fresh descent, " This is a very dangerous i:]ace — you
can easily slip here ! "

His English was very shaky. I think Japanese, in spite
of their many other talents, must be pour linguists, or find

JAPAN.

159

special difficulty in learning our language, for I have never
found it so hard to understand any other ureigners when
they attempt to speak English.

I have a vivid recollection of the many hopeless attempts
made years ago in London to keep up conversation with a
member of the Japanese Embassy, who is now one of the
Mikado's most famous ministers.

That Japan would be curious and interesting I felt sure
beforehand, but was quite unprepared for the extreme
natural beauties of the country. It has all the charm of
Swiss mountain scenery toned down by the softened beauty
of Italy. The road from Osaka to Nara is peculiarly in-
teresting. Apart from the beautiful line of hazy, poetical
blue mountains, the extraordinary cultivation and fertility of
the country between these two j)laces is most remark-
able. Fields upon fields of golden-eared rice, feathery
rape or colza, barley, &c., line the road. Although at first
one misses the English hedges, I think the landscape
gains by their absence, as there are here no stiff lines of
demarcation.

All is scrupulously tended and cultivated, and one crop
never encroaches upon another, but there are no arbitrary
divisions. Fields of golden rice wave their pretty heads or
ears until they touch upon other fields of younger brothers
and sisters, just shooting out of the watery ridges, that gave
them birth. Then come the crops of clover, bean, and rape,
all growing and blending with the lovely line of far distant

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

blue mountains, tho fleecy clouds sailing lazily along over a
still bluer sky.

The only drawbacks to our day's enjoyment lay in tlio
number of Buddhist and Shinto temples we fclJ. bound to
visit on our way. Tho latter are the inoi*e fatiguing, being
built on such high ground, and approaclied invariably by
numerous stone steps. But even the' Buddhist temples cover
such large areas of ground that one has to walk a consider-
able distance to get round any one of them.

In addition to my pagoda performance I went over three
other temples on this particular occasion, and when Ya-ami
suggested a fourth, I felt that if Buddha himself had descended
as cicerone, I must have declined the honour of accompanying
him !

By 5 P.M. we saw in the distance a beautiful pagoda and
a town on the hill- side, and knew that this was our destina-
tion, Nara. We pa.ssed through the usual endless streets of
wooden houses, all so much alike and all so clean, and then
emerged into some beautiful park-like grounds with a Shinto
Jwryci (or gateway) of red wood, forming an entrance to
them. Numbers of beautiful tame deer were playing about
in these exquisite grounds.

Right up on the very side of the hill, amidst overhanging
trees, we came upon our tea-house for the night, " Musa-
shino," and were enchanted by its beauty. We were taken
into a little house standing in the gardens apart from the
main building, and containing two large rooms separated by

JAPAN.

161

the usual sliding screens. These are ma<le of bamboo, the
small squares between the strips of bamboo being filled in by
tissue paper. They run in grooves and can be shifted to and
fro at pleasure, thus forming a very easy but scarcely satis-
factory partition, for of course every sound is plainly audible,
and it would be extremely disagreeable for others than
members of the same party to occupy adjacent rooms.
"Except for the honour and glory of the thing" as the
Irishman said, two people might as well occupy the same
apartment.

In the rooms of a Japanese tea-house there are no beds, no
washing apparatus— no table— no chairs— no looking-glass-
no anything!

A matted floor, sliding screens all round, an alcove, and at
most a Japanese screen in the room itself form the complete
furniture. All the tea-houses have a bath room on the
ground floor with a large wooden tub in it as is the custom
in China ; but for any less thorough washing, a metal bowl and
a wooden bucket with wooden pot and handle to it, must
suffice. These are placed on the open veranda so that the
matting of the room may not get wet, and your ablutions
must therefore be conducted in full view of the Japanese
men and women who crowd round to observe the manners
and customs of " the white devils." Other arrangements are
still more primitive or generally conspicuous by their absence,
no accommodation of any kind being found in a Japanese
room.

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

Alas! we found tliat so much beauty and novelty had
serious drawbacks. Clean as they look and undoubtedly are
in many ways, these tea-houses are infe.ited with fleas,
especially during the summer months. No doubt this is
owing to the matting and the heavy quilts which arc piled
up on the floor in the pi ice of a bed. Five or six of these
are brought in, four are placed one over the other on the floor
— then your own sheets are put on, another heavy quilt forms
the counterpane, whilst i,he last one is rolled up to do duty as
a pillow.

Ya-ami got a wonderful dinner together for iio on the night
of our arrival — excellent soup made fro?n our own meat
within an hour of reaching the tea-house — grilled chicken,
beef cut in squares and garnished with ham and parsley,
and a capital sauce (a novel rechauffe far superior to mince)
— pancakes and cofiee. It shows what can be done even in
the most primitive part of the world with a charcoal pan
and a willing and clever man at the end of it.

The beautiful Shinto temple we had passed on arrival is
crowded up outside with stone lanterns (950 in all) which
are lighted once a year wlien the Festa of the temple takes
place. It is called Kasuga, and is dedicated to the god of
that name (Spring morning) to whom the beautiful tame
deer are held sacred.

Dancing girls are dedicated to this temple and they
performed a sacred dance for us next morning, an old priest
beating time on the wooden clappers generally used for those

JAPAX.

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services. The two girls, thirteen or fourteen vearb of a'-e
were dressed in wide-spreading kimonas witli sweeping, open
sleeves, artificial flowers .fuck in their elaborately arranged
hair, and the whole face covered over with powder and
cosmetic making it look like a mask ; for the natural skin
was left all round the face at the sides. The eyebrows were
completely covered over, the eyes looked hke little slits in the
mask, and the upper lip was also covered, the lower one
being painted with red and a dash of gold. The effect was
very weird.

They advanced and retired and " kotooed " and whirled
about in various attitudes for ten minutes, and then we were
told the performance was ended. The priest chanted in a
monotonous voice and clapped on conscientiously to the
last.

Nara is quite one of the most beautiful spots in all Japan,
and with more food and fewer fleas one might spend a month
here with the greatest pleasure.

In the temple of Todaiji we saw the colossal Dai Batgu
(Buddha) ftimous as being tlie laigest in Japan. An enormous
circular building contains this bromze statue. The figure is
sitting on, or rather emerging from, a mass of enormous 'orf^ze
lotus leaves. It is fifty-three feet high, the length of th<-
face being sixteen feet, and the width of the nostril alon^;
three feet. A man is said to be able to crawl thrfj<^ tF*e
latter. This seems improbable, but is doubtless tine. I hwl
no Avish to attempt the experiment.

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The face is very disappointing, having more tlie expression
of a fat school-boy than the dignified repose usually found
with any representation of Buddha. Tiiere is a grand bronze
bell in this temple, one of the two largest in Japan, measur-
ing thirteen feet six inches in height, by nine feet wide at the
bottom.

At the Kodaiji temple in Nara, I met with something that
interested me very much. There are many paintings here :
some very crude ones, commemorating cures and deliverau' e
from various dangers. It was suggestive to notice in
several scenes of shipwreck or other calamities, a figure in
the air at the extreme iMajht or left corner, surrounded by a
sort of halo, representing Buddha come to the rescue or
consolation of the suffeners. Ni:)W we haow that the Buddhist
religion did not take r<.X)t in Japan until A.D. 600. Were
such representations of Buddha indigenous to that religion,
or were they introduced hk a carruption or legend of
Christianity 600 years after the death of the Founder of the
Christian religion ?

Returning from Nara to Kioto, we passed Uji, where the
great tea-producing industry is carried on, and stayed a few
I'ours to watch the various processes. Many people are
fniilirir with the low, stumpy-looking, clo.se round bushes
of a tea plantation, but all may not have watched the
operation of tea-making. In the Uji neighbourhood the
finer teas are all grown under matting covers overhead,
and at the sides of the bush, to preserve it from the too

JAPAN.

IGo

fierce rays of the sun. It is all green tea here, that i

to say, made from the fresh green leaves.

These are picked and laid on mats to drv. Thou they
are " washed " and put in a colander to steam for a few
minutes. They are then turned into large trays over a
hot fire. Men quite naked with the exception of a
loin cloth, next roll the leaves over and over this stove,
and pass them ou to an expert, who gives the final rolling,
after all twigs, &c., have been picked off by the women
who do that special work. The tea is then packed away
in huge jars, made an tight, and is fit for use.

It was well to have this diversion, for the ruad from
Nara to Kioto is not otherwise interesting, and being bad
and hilly, we were obliged to walk during a large part of
it, and as the rain came on heavily towards sunset, we
were very thankful to arrive at the large straggling town
of Kioto once more. It seemed quite homelike to us, as
Ave recognised with some triumph the turn to our hotel,
up on its lofty eyrie on the mountain side, and found
ourselves once more in the Ya-ami inn.

Anxious as I am to spare my readers " vain repeti-
tions " with regard to the 'anumerable temples of Japan,
I must say a few words about the famous Kinka-Kuji
(gold-coloured temple) which lies at the foot of the beau-
tiful Kinkasayama mountains in the neighbourhood of
Kioto.

It is a small wooden temple about five hundred years

106

KALEIDOSCOPE.

If? <;

oM, situated in the midst of lovely gardens, the latter
being the real attraction to the place. It was built as
a summer residence by the Sbogun Yoshivnitsu. The
Shoguns were f!)nnerly the JSIilitary Governors of Japan,
who shared, and for many years overshadowed the temporal
power of the Mikado himself. A little monumental stone
on a miniature island in the grounds, is raised in memory
of a fabulous Avhite serpent, which is said to have lived
here in ancient times. Some steps lead from one elevation
of these beautiful gardens to another, until at length a
little summer-house is reached, at the very top of all, built
like a Japanese tea-house.

Down below a large sheet of wa,ter is covered with
water-lilies and fringed by beautiful blue iris. In some
rooms belonging to a more ni^^dern part of the building,
are kept various domestic relics of the famous Shogun
Yoshimitsu, whilst the walls are lined by some clever
spirited black and white paintings done by Kanone, a
celebrated Japanese artist who flourished two hundred and
eighty years ago, and whose name is still held in the greatest
reverence in this country.

Leaving Kioto one niornitig in brilliant .sunshine, after a
fortnight's liappy stay there, we took our guide Ya-auia-
moto, and went by train to Otsu on Lake Biwa, oi:ly an
hour's journey, but sufficiently interesting to tempt us to
stay for a night in order to explore the neighbourhood.

First we drove for some miles along tlie lake shore to

JAPAN.

1(57

see a grand cedar, a wonderful specimen of tree training
two thousand years old. Tlie top branches had been
carried off by a severe storm three years ago, but tliis is
less to be regretted since height is not the most striking
feature of the growth. The marvel lies in the immense
width of the tree and the stretch of the branches. It
measures four hundred and fifty feet round tlie branches,
the diameter being one hundred and fifty feet.

Driving back past Otsu, and for some miles along the
other end of t,he shore, we came to the beautiful village
temple and grounds of Ichiyama. Few travellers coine
here, but it commands one of the most glorious views in
Japan. We climbed the usual stone steps, then through
lovely wild gardens to a terrace, where we found the inevit-
able temple and a marvellous view of mountains, lake,
and stretches of smiling, cultivated ground at our feet.

Otsu is one of the dirtiest towns we saw in Japan, and.
the men and women are ftir less neat here than elsewhere
in their dress. Large military barracks are built outside
the town here as at Osaka, and I was nmch puzzled by
the difference of size and streng-th in die soldiers to the
ordinary Jap. Some light was thrown on my perplexity
when I read Griffith's book on Japan, and found that from
genej-ations back the Japanese soLlier had represented a
special class picked out in the first place for extra size and
strength, and so being bred as carefully and surely as dray
horses or collie dous.

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Lake Biwa rather disappointed us. The scenery was
somewhat tame, and the steamer accommodation fur from
pleasant. The boat Avas crowded with Jap who hiy about
on rugs spread upon bales of cotton, and were far better
off than we first-class passengers. Our little guide tried
in vain to make us stay down in the first-class cabin, a
stuffy place, whence we could get no view of the lake.
The deck was supposed to be only for second-class passengers
so douttless he felt his honour at stake should we be
seen there by his fellow countrymen.

Fortunately the voyage lasted barely five hours, and then
four hours by train brought us to Nagoya, and our quarters
for the night. This train had no first-class carriage, and
only one long second class, which was quickly filled up by
Japs. All the men smoked. Two young Japanese ladies
accompanied by t^vo older women, a young man and a
boy made up one party, and were as friendly with us as
Tower of Babel drawbacks w^uld allow. They wore after-
wards our fellow^ travellers in the steamer to Yokohama,
but never emerged from their cabins during the short
voyage, and did not take part in any European meal
OTi board. One of the young girls had the very prettiest
hands I have ever seen, with small white dimpled and
pointed fingers, a fit subject for some lucky sculptor.

Nagoya is a fiat, clean, uninteresting town but is the
fortunate possessor of one of the most famous and beautiful
castles in Japan, It reminded us at first sight of the Osaka

IBW^-l

JAPA.V.

lO'J

castle, but whereas the latter is in ruins, the principal portions
here remain in the shajjc of a four or five-storied buildinj,^
situated at one side on the walls and not surrounded by tlieni
as our castles are. The woodeu roofs are all covered over by
copper tiling. There are large gloomy conidors, passages,
and dormitories in the castle, but it in quite uninhabited
nowadays.

Down below are some interesting rooms decorated with
pictures, some in colour, others in black and white; also
the works of the famou.- Kanone. The subjects are
generally animals, lions, tigers, leopards and birds of every
description. They are extremely clever and si)irited, quite
unlike the flat style of Japanese art which obtains in these
modern days. Some of the pictures contain representations
of temples and other buildings, in which a wonderful know-
ledge of perspective was very evident.

Although our guide had gone out at cock-crow to get
tickets for the castle, the delay in letting us in was. immense.
We had to show all our passports several times to different
officials, who came out and stared at us and then went away
again. A soldier was told off to accompany us, but on these
occasions it is not considered e iquette to offer any " fee."
No single official in the lowest govrtrnment capacity will take
a penny— a sure proof that the Jms are not yet entirely
'•ivilized or Europeanized !

Hurrying off to Miya, the suburb an(1 port of Nagoya we
and our modest luggage embarked in the tender which was to

170

KALEIDOSCOPE.

take us to our Yokohama steamer, the Ilirosldma Mario. The
Captain of the tender, and eight or nine Japanese sailors
were much taken up with looking at our rings, watches and
otii3r trinkets at first ; but very shortly the tossing and
whirling of that horrible little boat even on a fairly calm sea
drove me down to the cabin, where I found our poor little
guide stretched out in speechless misery.

Three hours brought our sufferings to an end, and feeling
very much like a Avashed-out rag, I clambered up the sides of
our fine, larger steamer, belonging to the same line as the one
by which we had arrived in Japan.

Next day we spent a peaceful morning on deck, watching
through the clouds to our left, the dim snow-tracked outline
of the famous " Fuji-yama." The clouds lay too low for us
to catc'h even a partial glimpse of the graceful sweeping lines
of the sacred mountain with which we became afterwards so
familiar. All the morning, the land view was extremely pretty,
culminating at length in the harbour and town of Yokohama
which we reached at noon.

There are two rival hotels in Yokohama, the "Club" andthe
" Grand." We had sent on our heavy baggage to the former, and
the hotel man arrived in the steam launch with our letters,
and seemed much relieved to liaveussafe in his charge whilst
upon that occasion liis less fortunate companion made a
fruitless trip.

Yokohama is a purely commercial town, built by Europeans,
and is no more intei'esting in itself than Liverpool or Bristol,

" ^ » . 'i« i i i^ 'j i H | I II Mi l uTiiT -

JAPAN.

171

but it is an excellent centre for touring, and many of the
most beautiful and interesting jjlaces in Japan are within
a day's journey of tlie commercial capital. Of course tliere
is a large native quarter here as elsewhere, and many of
the native shops, especially those in a part called the
Benten Dori, are very tempting. We drove all through
the native town on the evening of our arrival, for there
was a special Festa of some days going on to commemorate
tlie "first day of summer," which is fixed for the second
day of June. Chinese lanterns hung before every door,
and many marionette shows and other entertainments were
in full swing as we passed.

Most of the Europeans, consuls, barristers and other
officials and wealthy merchants, live upon the Bluff, some
beautiful heights overhanging the harbour and within fifteen
minutes of the esplanade, but approached by a very steep
ascent. The harbour is ever bright and cheerful, for so
many shi^js from different quarters of the globe lie always
within sight.

Within an hour by train of Yokohama is Tokio, the real
capital of Japan and residence of the Mikado and all the
higher Japanese officials. We spent a week here, and found
something to occupy every moment of our time. The
English Legation is at Tokio, and all passport?, and govern-
ment " permissions " must be obtained from thence. A permis-
sion to visit some of the princi})al gardens in Tokio (belonging
to the Mikado) gave us as much pleasure as anything.

'I M

172

KALElDOSCOrK.

li,

Japan is the country par excellence for landscape garden-
ing and the "gardens" in Japan arc all the more lovely
for having so few flowers. This sounds a paradox, but the
trees are so beautiful in shape and foliage and the flowering
shrubs so numerous and varied that one never seems to
miss the flowers. Wild flowers grow in the greatest
profusion, the roses and azaleas so highly cultivated with
us, coming under that head out here, but a real " garden "
in Japan generally means only shady trees and shrubs
and most beautiful they are, mingled with the delightful
grottoes, rockeries and rustic bridges which adorn every
pleasure ground, no matter how small it may be.

Tokio is an immense city, situated near the sea
and occupying nine miles in length ,j eight miles in
breadth. In 1888 the population had risen to two millions
as compared with one million of inhabitants in the year
1885!

We had gone to Tokio without a guide, having a great
love of being independent if possible, but we soon found
out our mistake, and remedied it on the following day.
The coolies are very ignorant of English, and it was im-
possible to make them understand the simplest direction.
After traversing several miles they came suddenly to a
full stop before a building which we had not the slightest
curiosity to investigate at the time. Later on we found
out that it was the " Imperial Household Department."
In vain we suggested going on — the 'ricksha men were

ifeiilBli

JAPAN.

173

inexomblt, and tried to make us undorstand by signs that
it would bo (luite easy to gain an entranoo.

Tlie civil sentry kept us for more tlian lialf an hour whilst
he (les])atched messages to vnrious officials who came out
one after the other; all in uniform, and all as helpless as
himself. At length one ])oor man after looking at us in
speechless agony and then nearly going off in an apoplectic
fit in his effort to frame an Knglish sentence, burst out
with it in tlie form of the following query, Whi/ do yow
come here ? Upon my word I did not know how to reply —
the question seemed so pertinent. " I have not the vaguest
notion, ask the coolies " was the onlv answer that suf-
gested itself, and I could not put that into Japanese, and
I am sure he had exhausted his whole English vocabulary.
It ended in our driving off ignominiously, leaving him
master of the situation.

Profiting by experience, we took a guide next day to
the Shiba, ("a grass plot) a sort of inclosed park of pleasure
grounds and temples. Foremost of these latter in interest is
the Zojoji (Buddhist) temple, where the tombs of the Shoguns
are to be seen. It was one of the handsomest temples
we had seen, with beautiful carvings in wood, covered with
gold, crimson, pink, and cream. The roofs are composed
of squares of lacquer with pictures inside, reminding one
constantly of the beautiful Italian roofs to be seen in the
palazzi of Florence and Venice.

In the uppermost temple are three gorgeous o-ilt shrines

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of the Shoguns, with image;} of Buddha and Kwanon (god
of mercy). The wood in these Japanese temples is stained
crimson with sulphate of iron, which is also used for em-
balming, and is very costly. The tombs of these Shoguns
were handsome bronze cupolas, with the arms of the
Shogun (three geranium leaves) carved upon them. From
the top of these bronze monuments rises a device suggest-
ing in bronze the idea of a flame rising direct from the
tomb towards the sky. This is said to be an emblem of
the spirit which rises like a flame from the natural body.

" Vital ppark of heavenly flame."

Is there anything new under the sun ?

The large stone baths of holy water before all the temples
are used by worshippers for washing their hands before
prayer. To make the sign of the cross with it was only
one step further with the early Christians. The Roman
Catholics must surely have borrowed all these lamps,
shrines, votive offerings, pictures, and holy water, from
Buddhism — for what intercourse can the Buddhists have had
with them since the Christian era until those hitter days ?

There are more than two hundreil stone lanterns in
front of this temple, where again we can note the mixture of
Shintoism with pure Buddhism. These lanterns were given
to the memory of the deceased Shoguns by their humble
retainers. The richer ones gave bronze lanterns, of which some
handsDiue specimens stand in the iiinor court of tlio teinplo.

JAPAN.

175

On our way home we passed the Shiro or castle, and saw
the new buildings for the Emperor's palace. Some months
ago, permission was easily gained with a little interest, to see
the new palace, but being now so near completion, all such
privilege was suspended. The old palace was burnt down
ten years ago, and the Mikado was occupying temporary
quarters last year whilst his new home was being completed.
The new buildings are very unpretentious but in good taste,
and most harmonious in colour, with a number of brown roofs
at various angles. The decorations inside are said to be most
beautiful. Fortunately it is thoroughly Japanese in character,
and therefore far more beautiful and characteristic than any
European building could have been with similar surroundings.

Another day we took an interminable drive to Hora Kiri,
one of the sights of Tokio at this time of year (June). It is
an excavated ditch turned into a pleasure ground and
planted with beds of iris, which grow to great perfection in
the water here, showing every lovely shade of mauve, deep
blue, faint grey, &c., &c. The blossoms are of immense size
as well as beautiful in colouring, and I felt thai. I had never
appreciated the flower before, although it has always been one
of my prime favourites.

One becomes so accustomed to the kindliness and friendli-
ness of the Japanese that it is apt to pass unnoticed after the
first few weeks. It is however most remarkable, especially
the quiet good humour so universal in the streets. All
travellers have noticed this, but it seems to come with a fresh

176

KALEIDOSCOPE.

shock of surprise to each of us. I have never heard any
quarrelling in the streets, nothing approaching to a fight, nor
have I ever noticed any unkindness or quarrelling between
children, nor any attempt amongst the elder ones to bully
those younger or weaker than themselves.

If a child cries in the street from fright or loneliness, some
one (generally a man) invariably rushes out from his shop,
picks the little one up in his arms and soothes it with loving
words and looks. It is the same with the grown-up people.
The poorest men are just as scrupulously polite to each otlier
as the grandees of a European court — the same low bows
when they meet, hats off, bodies bent and the most courteous
and charming smile.

They are a wonderful people truly. I fear that civilization
will spoil them — certainly it will sadden them by introducing
elements of morbidness and self-analysis into their present
simple, happy lives.

I should like to see the faces of some of the very " good "
Exeter Hall people if it were suggested that a fund should
be raised for sending over Japanese missionaries to England
to convert us ! And yet T am sure we -might learn many
lessons in Cliristianity from them in the way of courtesy,
kindliness towards each other and cheerfulness of mind.

Differences of taste and opinion are never more apparent
than in travelling. Her.oe it is so impossible to gain by the
experience of others unless one knows beforehand and makes
due allowance for personal prejudices. For instance, a lady

JAPAN.

177

friend in Tokio had strongly advised us to give up an expedition
to the private gardens of the Mikado in the Shiro grounds,
assuring us there was nothing of any interest or beauty there.
I discovered later that her one idea of a garden was a place
where Jlovjcrs grew. Now Japanese gardens have compara-
tively few flowers, and no conventional " flower-beds " such as
we cultivate in Europe. Wild flowers, which here include
azaleas, wistaria, and iris, &c., as well as roses, grow in beauti-
ful profusion in the gardens as they do on the road-side or
amongst the hills, but, as I have said befoi'e, trees form the
great beauty of a Japanese garden. These are most lovely
in foliage and in tlie varying tints of green on the same tree,
and often so immense in height.

Their trees are as gigantic as the Japanese themselves
are small. One of the most beautiful Japanese trees, growing
sometimes to a considerable height, at others a mere large
bush, is the maple. It is quite different from the American
maple, for the leaves are of the tiniest dwarf description, even
when the tree itself is large. These leaves exhibit every
shade of tender green, whilst others are crimson, flame, or
copper-coloured, these latter being the natural colour and not
autumnal tints, whicli were still far distant in the month of
June.

A Japanese garden is a delicious combination of "wild
and tame " — Nature is encouraged, never coerced or tortured.
There is no uniformity, no cold regularity to take all the
poetry out of a garden as with us. Here you find water

178

KALEIDOSCOPE.

! ■!

everywhere— often artificial, but hiding all sign of art-
rockeries, stonework, and beautifully arched but rough stone
bridges thrown across the water, undulating grassy hills and
stately trees throwing their beautiful shadows everywhere.

Such gardens have all the charm of a forest scene and all
the cultivation of a park. Here again we might take a
useful lesson from the Japanese. Think of our " tortured "
trees and uniform beds of bedding-out plants ! I suppose
space is one great necessity for such gardening, and this is
found more readily in Japan than in England, but if we
had more room we should only plan out more " conventional "
beds, and perhaps train a few more trees into impossible
shapes.

Although my experience of " native dances " has proved
them to be almost invariably an expensive and wearisome
failure, we felt bound to see the geisha or " dancing girls "
of Japan, so an evening was fixed, and our guide made the
necessary arrangements for the exhibition at one of the
noted tea-houses., It was a large and handsome house,
containing some excellent pictures and some fine specimens
of bronze and lacquer work. The flower decorations consisted
of a single group of beautiful white arum lilies in one corner
of the room.

We squatted down as best we could on low cushions on
the matted floor, and presently the dancing girls came in.
They were very young, the two eldest being ai^parently
about thirteen or fourteen years of age, and the third a tiny

JAPAN.

171)

child of seven or eiglit, wlio danced the best of the three,
and was most amusing in her posturing and self-possession.
The " music " consisted of one woman who played a native
instrument, a sort of drum shaped like an hour-glass. This
was made of lacquered wood, with pig-skin stretched across
either end of it, red cords as thick as the little finger stretch-
ing lengthways all round it. These strings or cords when
tightened or relaxed give varied tones by alternately pulling
out and contracting the pig-skin.

The chief point however consists in striking the pig-skin
of the instrument very sharply at either end with the flat
of the hand. A worrying, wooden sort of sound is the result,
by no means pleasing, especially as it was accompanied by
shrieks and squalls from the perfoimer, reminding one
irresistibly of cats squalling on the top of a wall. Two other
women played each an instrument like a square banjo, called
a samisrn ; this has three strings, and is played not with
the fingers but with an ivory stick. Discordant groans and
shrieks accompanied the whole performance.

The dance itself seemed easy enough. Each girl twisted
and twirled, and turned round, and postured according to
her own sweet will, apparently without any regard to what
the others were doing, but I suppose there must have been
some method in the madness, for they turned up now and
then close to each other v/ith fans all pointed in the same
direction. Four or five dances were conducted on similar
lines ; some in praise of spring, summer, winter. Sec. ; others

N -1

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■I

descriptive of the maple, wistaria, and other characteristic
trees and flowers. Sweetmeats and tea were handed round
at intervals, the former apparently composed of pomatum
and salad-(jil with a little crystallized sugar at the top !

Every one visiting Tokio spends a day if possible at Ueno,
a sort of inimcnse pleasure-ground, similar to the Shiba
already mentioned. Here, in addition to temples and
zoological gardens, we found a large museum — a modern
red-brick building, containing some very handsome rooms,
but a very poor collection so far as European goods are
concerned. The native collection is very beautiful, especially
of bronzes and lacquer work, but the foreign department is
very inferior, and I fear the poor Japs have been terribly
cheated by those who bought for them, unless the latter were
exceptionally ignorant. Tawdry artificial flowers, the very
commonest pewter and plated tea-pots, sugar-bowls, &c.,
inferior prints and woollen goods, and a large coUecti in of
dirty old straw-hats — these represented England and various
other "foreign parts." I trust all these may speedily be
burnt or packed away, and their places more worthily fJled.

One of the most interesting native institutions in Tokio is
the " Dai Gakko," or Imperial university. The buildings are
large and extend over a wide area. There are a hundred
and thirty-two resident pupils from twenty years of age
ujiwards, and the courses of study run from three to four
years according to the special course selected. There are
five sections, each of which claims tlie whole study time

*■

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JAPAN.

IHl

of tho allotted period. These five sections are science,
engineering, law, literature, and medicine. We went over
various laboratories and a whole vestibule of small rooms
where dissection and the study of disease-germs was being
carried on by individual students.

The dormitories for the residents were certainly very
rough and rather untidy. Three students sleep in each
room, which is fitted up with an iron bedstead and a rough
wash-stand for each young man. There was no carpet, and
tlie floor was not very clean. Rich and poor alike study at
this college. There are also three hundred and thirty non-
residents who attend the lectures. The course is certainly
very cheap, and no doubt the instruction is very good,
although the arrangements are so rough. Twelve to fifteen
yen (1/. ICs. to 2/. 5.s.) a month is all that is paid for board,
clothing, and instruction. Government must of course
subsidize the college very highly, or -t could not possibly be
self-supporting.

We went into one building here which is set apart for the
study of earthquakes, with all the newest instruments for
determining the force and course of these disturbances.
Some ingenious wire models made by the young Japanese
student who showed us over this department gave the
convolutions of the disturbance at various seconds during an
earthquake. He told me with pride that he was about to
forward the results of his observations to Cambridge, in
England.

ikH

)

182

KAT.FIDOSCOPE.

In one of the rooms of the Dai Gakko, we were fortunate
enough to meet with a number of Ainoa (the natives of the
north island of Japan), who had been brought down for some
special purposes. Several of these were patriarchal-looking,
grey-headed old men of quite different type to any of those
found in other parts of Japan, being much larger and more
powerful. There were also several women, on a much larger
scale than the little "Jap" women, who were partially
tattooed with a long straight black line put on for eyebrows
and meeting between the eyes.

The women looked sulky and rather morose, but the dear
old men were charming. They were sitting upon some high
benches in the lecture-room when we entered, but instantly
scrambled down, looking so pleased and e.xcited, and salaam-
mg with both hands in a peculiar fashion of their own, which
consisted in opening the hands outward towards us with a
grand sweep. I noticed that they had very fine and well
developed heads. We were lucky to come upon them, for no
Ainos had been seen in Tokio for five years previously.

Another wet morning was devoted to going over one of the
normal schools, where we saw a number of little Japanese
boys and girls drilling and gymnasticising (to coin a word)
with native teachers, dressed alas ! in European costume.
This does not at all suit the Japanese. Would that they
could be brought to believe it ! The men looked cramped
and uncomfortable ; the women slouchy and untidy — a great
contrast to the effect of their own graceful native dress.

JAPAN.

183

111 the pretty garden we noticed as elsewlierc the beautiful
custom of training wistaria witli interlacing pole" of bamboo
over a considerable space of ground, which is thus roofed over
to protec. ,he children from the rays of the sun. When tlie
leaves and flowers are out together, the effect is like fairyland,
blanches of the blossom dropping down between the interstices
of these exquisite green " screens " overhead.

Indoors, we saw several classes going on where the native
teachers were giving their lessons in Japanese. One young
Japanese girl was teaching her class to sing " at sight " in the
European fashion, a decided improvement upon the music we
had heard a few days previously in the tea-house. There
were four hundred in this school, in addition to two hundred
in another building set apart for the smaller children, who are
taught upon the kindergarten principle, and were marching
round the elliptical circle as sun, moon, and stars ; several little
Japanese planets getting very much out of their respective
orbits as they wandered on, staring with all their might at
the " white devils."

A handsome little boy whom we had noticed playing in the
garden with a sword at his side and a cavalier hat, turned
out to be a young American, whose mother, or " mam-ma " as
he called her, was one of the teachers. She came over here
eight months ago from Chicago with a two years' engage-
ment. She seemed a very pleasant, intelligent woman, much
interested in both her profession and her present pupils. She
says that most of the normal pupils are educated by Govern-

■

184-

KALEIUOSCOPE.

ment freo of expense, on the understanding that they should
become teachers, the boys binding themselves to teach for ten
years, and the girls for five years, after their education is com-
j)lL'ted. The shorter term for women is doubtless designed that
they may not be too oKl to marry when released from their
agreement. Some have eluded the reai)onsibility by leaving
just before their own education is completed, but this is a rare
occurrence, and is naturally considered a dishonourable one.

I paid a visit later to a lady whose advent in Japan from
England had been the subject of general discussion for some
weeks before our visit to Tokio. She had come with a staff
of six lady teachers, at the instigation of the Japanese
Government, to start a high class school for the education of
the daughters of the Japanese nobility. The school is to be
under the management of a committee of Japanese gentlemen,
and tiie lady j)rincipal begged that I would not enter into
any further details, as she had promised to send home no
reports of the work. It was easy to make the promise, for at
the time of our visit there was absolutely nothing to see
except the quaint picturescpie old home, formerly the residence
of a 'daimio," where the experinient was to be made.

It would be impossible to leave Tokio without paying a
vi^it to Sengakuji (the Hill Spring Temple), made famous as
the burial-jjlace of the " forty-seven Renins." The temple is
prettily situated about a mile from the town, and on a fine day
the drive there would have been beautiful. As it w:s, in
P' iiring rain, we had only the beauty of association. The

■I

JAPAN,

185

romantic story has bot-n so well told by Mr. Mitlonl in bi.'j
Tolm of Old Japan, that it seoins ucddioss to give fVi'ii a
slight sketch of it horc. Some, however, may not liav(! read
it, whilst others may be glad to have their meiu'i i(!S refreshed.
The lord of these forty-seven heroes had faile(l in some
slight point of eticiuetto ou a state occasi I at ll'o couH of
OTi(^ oF the Shoguns. He was young and inexprnoneed, and
the matter woidd have been passed over without comment,
but another courtier who was jealous of him had Tjumted and
insulted the hot-headed youth. The latter in a fit of right-
eous indignation drew bis sword and W(iunde<l his enemy.
For this oti'ence he was condemned to comuiit hara-Idri
This mode of death (which allowed the criminal to disem-
bowel himself) was only accorded as a great privilege and
honour where there was nothing absolutely dishonourable in
the nature of the crime committed.

The deceased was buried at Sengakuji, Fifty-three of his

vassals, headed by Kuranoski (his secretary), agreed amongst

themselves to avenge his death by killing the man who had

insulted him and so caused his untimely end. In order to

avoid suspicion and throw the enemy off guard, tliey dispersed

themselves over the country, wer faithful to the object in

view. A year was allowed to pass before Kuranoski met his

comrades in Yedo (Tokio). The number was reduced by this

time to forty-six, the rest having died. One night they

attacked the house of their enemy, and after killing many of

his retainers, cut oft' his head and carried it iu triumph to

186

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Sengakuji where they washed it in tho well which is still to
be seen outside the cemetery, and then placed it on the tomb
of their beloved lord and master.

After this tragedy, they gave themselves up to Govern-
ment, and in consideration of the nature of their oiFence, they
also were allowed to die the death of honour by committino-
hara-Jciri. They cheerfully obeyed the order, dying before
the grave of their lord.

We counted forty-seven upright stones which stand round
a small square not much bigger than a dining-room table.
The forty-seventh belongs to a Satsuma man, who had insulted
and spat upon Kuranoski, thinking that the latter had given
up his intention of avenging his master. Kuranoski pre-
tended to be lying drunk and helpless in the streets, which
accounted for the misunderstanding, he having done so only
to further his own schemes by secrecy. The man who had
done the secretary such injustice endeavoured to make
atonement and to show his admiration for Kuranoski by
committing hara-Jciri before his tomb.

It is a touching stoiy, and shows us that men of all
nations and in all times have been found willing "to die
for a sentiment." Nu one would wish to dim the glory of
our Christiin martjTS, but it is as well to remember that
the " poor degraded heathen " upon whom some of us look
with pity not unmixed by contempt, have sometimes died
deaths casting quite as radiant a glory around them in
proportion to the amount of light they have received.

CHAPTER VI.

JAPAN (contimicd).

The rainy season in Japan— Kaniakura and Enoshima— The Plains of
Heaven— Temple of Hachiman— Sacred stones— Dai Butsu— An
ancient tradition— The Sacred Mountain— A curious spon^^e—
Yokoska and Will Adams— The death of Richardson— The Simla of
Japan— Wild flowers— The fourth of July— A strange tea-party-
Glorious Nikko— Sleepless nights— Cryptomeria-The Red Lacquer
Bridge— A Japanese legend— Nikko temples— The dream gate-
Charms of a Kago-The influence of clothes-Chinsingi Lake-A
curious waterfall-Atrip to Yumoto-The Copper Mine Pass-Ikao
—Delights of a washstand— A trip to Haruna— A wonderful story—
In thAeart of Ja,. m— The Burning Mountain-Japanese pilgrims
—Discomforts of travel— Lake Suwa-Mulberry trees and silk-
worm? -Return to Yokohama- Advice to those " thinking of going
to .iup'U "-Japanese civilization-" Heathen " virtues-Farewell to
Paradise.

The rainy season in Japan was now (June) in full force, and
nuicli calculation and patience were necessary to utilize the
fevv flue days in the best possible manner. Of course the
rain is much needed, as this is the " rice- sowing " season, one
harvest being gathered in whilst the other is sown. From
the tourist's point of view, however, the rain is a nuisance,
and it is difficult to decide upon which is the best time to
visit Japan. A late winter makes travelling difficult until

186

KALEIDOSCOPE.

11;

;)

April has set in. Sometimes early rains will fall even in
tins montli. The legitimate rainy season begins in May
and continues till early July, and then the heat becomes too
great for comfort in travelling. I think, on the whole, the
autumh must be the best season for a trip to Japan. A
traveller at that season of the year loses the spring flowers
but sees the chrysanthemums in full glory; the rains and
heat are things of the past, and the roads are dry and hard,
with a brilliant sun overhead and a fresh, crisp feeling in
the air.

Go when you will, each month is famous for some special
flower. If you miss one, it is only to find others in greater
beauty, in this favoured land.

We took advantage of a tolerably fine day to start from
Yokohama for a two days' expedition to Kamakura and
home by Enoshima. Most people go there and back in
the day and partly by train, thus missing the most beautiful
part of the expedition. We engaged 'rickshas for the whole
trip, but had great difficulty in persuading our coolies to
go by one road and return by another.

They Avished naturally to take us by the longer but
leas hilly road which we traversed next day on our return
journey. Great firmness gained the day. Otherwise we
should have gone over the same ''oad twice, missing all the
finest scenery.

The road was certainly bad, but this was chiefly owing
to the heavy rains which hud just fallen, Of course,

ggmi-

JAPAN.

189

having gained our point, we felt bound in honour to
walk up all the hills and relieve the poor coolies as much
as possible.

We started across the fields, a terribly heavy road, rising
by slight degrees until we reached Seki, where a pause
was made, and whence we walked a good distance to the
beautiful pass amongst the hills, overlooking Kanazawa and
the Plains of Heaven. A glorious panorama of fertile plains,
intersecting streams, blue mountains on the horizon line, and
deep blue sea lay below us. Every shade of green in the
trees adding variety and colour to the enchanting view.
Further on still, is a spot called Nokendo, where upon an
eminence is built a small tea-house, close to a remarkable
looking old pine-tree. The story goes that the famous
Japanese artist Kanaoka tried to paint the view from here,
but threw away his brush iu despair of ever being able to
do justice to it. Drinking in the sugarless, railkless,
Japanese tea and the beauty around us at the same
time, we felt that any other great artist might have a
similar experience !

Kanazawa is a lovely and picturesque spot which lay
in the valley beneath us, on a stretch of land between

the moimtains.

It is famous for the peonic. which grow here on trees
of several feet in height. We saw the trees, but the flowers,
alas! were over. These peonies measure from eight to
fifteen inches in diameter.

190

KALEIDOSCOPE.

To make up for our disappointment we saw hundreds
of lovely white tiger lilies, growing quite wild all over the
fields and hills in this vicinity. All flowers; chrysan-
themums, camellias, roses, peonies, and lilies, grow in great
profusion here at the proper seasons of the year.

After passing Kanazawa, we reached Kamakura (which
also lies in a valley inclosed by hills) about five o'clock
in the afternoon.

Kamakura was formerly the eastern and political capital
of Japan. It is now a mere straggling village with little
trace of its ancient glory. One splendid temple, however,
remains as a relic of the past — the Temple of Hachiman,
which is built on a commandiog position, showing its red
roofs amongst the dark green trees surrounding it.

The Shogun Yoritomo made this spot the military
capital in A.D. 1185, and the ground is full of traditions
concerning him and the Minamoto family from which he
sprang.

The temple rests on a plateau, reached by climbing fifty-
eight steps. It is full of relics of this Shogun. Several
beautifully carved and ornamented swords are kept here
which belonged to him — also his helmet, covered with
gold dragons, and his hunting suit of many-coloured silks,
now " tattered and torn."

These were shown to us by the priests, with great pride.
There is a grand specimen here of a tree, which had puzzled
us for some time in other places. It has a curious leaf,

JAPAN.

191

like a gigantic maiden-hair fern. The tree is a great
height and very full in foliage, and this particular specimen
is said to be a thousand years old, but looked far too
fresh and green and strong for such antiquity.

It is called the Salishicria Adiantifolia, and must belong
to the maiden-hair family.

A grandson of Yoritomo is said to have stood beneath
this very tree, disguised as a girl (1218 A.D.), to kill his
uncle Sanetomo, a Minister of State, who had connived at
the death of his own brother (the boy's father), Kugio, in
order to gain this official post.

Some inclosed stones near the entrance to the temple
are said to be sacred, and to have wonderful properties.
Like the man in Mark Twain's Jumping Frog, I did " not
see any points about them more than any other stones,"
but barren women come here to pray for offspring, and
also members of both sexes to ask for suitable partners
for life.

On the other side of the town of Kamakura is the
grand bronze image of Buddha — the Dai Butsu. This
colossal seated figure is placed in the open air, with a
background of trees and foliage, and is the most wonderful
and glorious work of art in all Japan. Nothing but the
Sphynx and the colossal Osiri of Aboo Simbel in Egypt
ever made such an impression upon me.

In size, it is second only to the gigantic Nara image of
Buddha, but the latter is inclosed in a temple, and does

192

kalb;idoscope.

not " begin to compare " with this one in beauty of
conception.

This seated figure is fifty feet in height; the face is
eight feet long, the ear six feet six inches, the nostrils
three feet wide, the mouth three feet eight inches wide.

These calculations give some idea of the size, but are
powerless to convey any impression of the marvellous
beauty of the face itself.

It is truly the Human — infurmcd and uplifted by the
Divine — patient, far-seeing, satisfied. Looking at it, you
feel you could sit there day by day and never tire, nor come
away otherwise than soothed and helped by the atmosphere
of sublime repose. It seemed to me that I had lost some-
thing out of my life when we drove past next morning,
catching one last glimpse of this marvel on our way to
Enoshima, an island or peninsula according to the state of
the tide.

Our route thither lay first by the village of Sakanoshta,
where we struck the beach and a very beautiful but tem-
pestuous-looking sea. Tradition says that in the year
1333 A.D., Nitta Yoshida, the brave vassal of the Mikado
Godaigo, was sent against the powerful forces of Hojo, lord
of Kamakura.

At this spot he received a check by perceiving a fleet of
war galleys which blocked his sea passage, whilst an over-
powering army prevented his progress by land. Nitta, in
despair, sacrificed to the Kami (god.s), and threw into the

^ w»

JAPAN.

193

waves, as an offering, a magnificent sword given to him by
the Emperor, That evening the tide ebbed, and by early
morning the galleys were far out at sea, too far to harm
Nitta and his followers, who, thus encouraged, were easily
led to victory on land. Kamakura was taken, and Hojo's
power was at an end.

Walking along this sea-shore whilst our 'rickshas were
dragged heavily along by the coolies, we had the most
glorious views of Fuji-yama, rising up in splendour alone
from the plain. The graceful sweeping lines of the sacred
mountain can only be seen to advantage from this neigh-
bourhood, but we were peculiarly fortunate in our day.

A friend whom we met later at Enoshima, told us that he
had been four times on the road within a few weeks, but
had never seen the view so well before.

Enoshima stands far out in the sea, being connected with
Katase, a dirty little town on the mainland, by a narrow strip
of grcund which is generally under water. A boat took us
across, and we landed on the "island" pick-a-back in most
ungraceful fashion. One steep little street forms the whole
town of Enoshima, and the shops display some very inge-
nious pictures made with shells, representing birds, trees,

houses, &c.

The real curiosity of Enoshima, however, is the Eosu-gai,
a rare and very interesting sponge, which grows with its glassy
cable (exactly like spun glass) downwards, and is only found
in very deep waters at some distance from the coast.

n m

104

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Getting back into the boat was far worse than the landing
had been. I had to jump on to the back of my poor little
Jap as if I were going to play " leap-frog," and then we were
literally I'olled over the side of the boat into position.

As the day rercuned fine, we drove the whole way back to
Yokohama by the Tokaido road, instead of taking the railway
as we might have done at a certain point on our return.

Another of our few fine days, we went by steamer to Yokoska,
on the opposite side of the harbour from Yokohama, and due
south of it. This place is reached in about two hours by
water. The sail was very charming, but the steamers as
usual very uncomfortable. The one idea of the Japanese is
to push all the women into a stuffy cabin whence no view can
possibly be obtained. The alternative is to sit upon your
heels, amongst the Japs themselves, on an upper deck, to
which you must scramble over boxes and rice barrels (koku)
as best you may.

We chose the latter course invariably ; but the absence
of any "back-rest" is very painful to European female
nature.

The interest of Yokoska is supposed to lie in the fact
that Will Adams, a celebrated English pilot, and his
Japanese wife are buried here. It is well worth while
to make the very steep ascent of forty minutes, up one
of the highest hills, to the mounds where these stone
graves are situated. I am afraid I took more interest in
the exijuisite beauty of the view thus obtained than in

JAPAN.

195

the association with Will Adams, never having heard of
that individual before going to Japan. It seems that he
was an English pilot, who set out, about the year 1607, to
join a fleet of ships in Holland, for trading purposes with
Japan. The enterprise was most disastrous. Boisterous
weather came on. The crews suffered terribly ; and only
one of the fleet, with Adams on board, reached her desti-
nation. Their troubles did not end here, for the survivors
were treated at first with great cruelty by the natives.

Adams, however, thanks to his knowledge of ship-
building and mathematics, became a great favourite with
the Shogun of those days, who conferred upon him some
land and an annual revenue of rice. In spite of these
advantages, he was naturally anxious to return to his
wife and children in England, but the Japanese authorities
would not hear of this. Being a philosopher, apparently,
he made the best of things, took a Japanese wife, by
whom he had two children, and eventually chose this most
exquisite spot for his grave. The tombs and stone lanterns
were put up by his neighbours, and his memory is still
held in greatest reverence by the natives, many of whom
claim to be descended from him.

The little town of Yokoska is dusty arid dirty, and only
famous for its grand naval arsenal buildings, where we saw
some fine ships in course of construction. Many visitors
unfortunately never get beyond the town. The steep
climb daunts some. They are willing to take " Will

o 2

106

KAI,KIDOS('OF>E.

Atlams" on trust, and do not realize what they miss in
the su])erb view from his tombstone.

An interesting expedition to mo personally, lies within
easy reach of Yokohan ., taking the train to Kanagawa
(the first station on the line to Tokio), and thence by the
sea-coast for a mile and. a half, to a lonely mound by
the roadside, where a plain slab of stone, with Japanese
inscription, marks the resting-place of Mr. Richardson,
My special interest lies in the fact of knowing his niece,
but the sad tragedy of his death, in 1862, is a matter of
Japanese history.

All will remember how this hot-headed young English-
man defied a Japanese prince, when requested to make
room for him, and dismount when he passed, and how
the former was instantly cut down by the infuriated
Japanese retainers, when he refused obedience to the ordei*
in terms of unmeasured contempt. He was one of a
riding party, who had set out that morning against the
advice of friends, who knew that this Japanese noble was
likely to come into the city that day, and that foreigners
unwilling to show him the customary signs of respect
would be safer out of the way.

The poor young fellow, with all an Englishman's insular
obstinacy and contempt for any authority outside his native
country, declined to recognize any " miserable Japanese " idea
of rank or superiority. Many blame his conduct as over-
bearing and indiscreet. No doubt it was both, but he paid a

JAPAN.

197

heavy price for acting as many other young Englishmen
would have done in his place, thinking the honour of their
country was at stake.

" Black-eyed Susfin "—the faithful young Japanese girl
who hid the wounded man, and nursed him till he died— still
lives in a tea-house close by the scene of his death. She is
a middle-aged woman now, forty-six years old, and it was
difficult to realize in her the heroine of this romantic episode.
The English Government took up the matter very sternly, and
the Japanese were forced to pay the heavy sum of £125,000
as compensation for the death of a British subject.

A very pleasant excursion from Yokohama is to Miyanoshta,
which a friend of mine describes as "the Simla" of Japan.
It is an inland watering-place within easy reach of the
capital, and most romantically situated amongst the moun-
tains. We spent a week here, and enjoyed ourselves very
much in spite of some rainy days.

The Fujiya hotel, where we came to anchor, is charmingly
placed on the very edge of the mountain, and surrounded by
beautiful gardens full of azaleas at the time of our visit.

There are capital sulphur baths to be had in the hotel,
which are extremely refreshing and soothing, and most effi-
cacious in skin diseases.

The Japanese suffer terribly from this curse, and maki.g
the steep ascent to Miyanoshta we passed and met many
Japanese being carried in hagos to this place of healing.
Of course they stay as a rule in native tea-houses, but

1!)8

KALEinoSCOI'K.

there arc two very good hotels for Europeans, and many, botli
Japanese and Europeans, spend weeks during the summer
months in this beautiful mountain retreat.

There are some fine walks to be taken in the neighbourhood,
and the wild flowers delighted my eyes on every side. Wild
spiraea — a species of the " dogwood " tree so common in
CalifoiTiia — wild white roses in clusters, deutzia, purple
columbine, wild honeysuckle, and a dwarf rhododendron
somewhat resembling the Alpenrosen of Switzerland, — these
are only :i few of the many beauties we found in our daily
walks. ' 'le of the chief attractions of Miyanoshta is the
expedition to be made on a fine day from here to the Otomi
Pass, whence a glorious view of Fuji-yama is obtained.

We made many attempts to get there, but on each occasion
the clouds descended at the most critical moment, and to go
there on a wet day is absolutely useless.

So we con :>led ourselves by a rather disappointing excur-
sion to the Takone Lake — disappointing because, being a
sulphurous \ .canic district, the hills were very bare of
vegetation. \ e were fully repaid, however, on the other
side of the 1. le, where we ascended the mountains over-
hanging a sulphurous valley. We had to scramble down the
latter on our feet, passing several boiling sulphur-springs, and
admiring the rose and crimson shades of the hills, covered in
patches by green trees.

It was a lurid, weird, and yet most picturesque scene.
The continuous rains drove us back to Yokohama at last.

JAPAN.

190

where wc cultivated a little European sociuty, and saw
something of the modern social life of the place by
attending one or two afternoon dances. One of these
was given on board the American flag-ship the BrooUyn,
to commemorate the glorious "Fourth of July." A dance
on board ship is always made pretty by flowers and flags.
but is seldom successful for non-dancers, who seem to be
even more in the way here than on dry land.

We finished up the afternoon by driving with some
friends to see a native garden where hundreds of the little
dwarf trees for which Japan is so famous are to be found.
M:iny of these trees, firs, yews, &c., are from sixty to
seventy years old, perfectly developed, but only a foot high,
and proportionately small in circumference. They are arti-
ficially trained by clipping, cutting, and being kept in dark
cellars, with just light enough for life, but not for develop-
ment. What a sad type of many human lives ! I could
not bear to look at them. They reminded me so much of
poor little dwarfs reared on gin! The gentleman with
whom we had visited this garden insisted upon taking us
to a friend's house to tea. The host and hostess were both
absent, but he assured us this made no difference, so we
calmly walked in by his invitation, and presently tea was
brought to us on the verarda.

By and by, some gentlemen who had been presented
to me on board the Brooklyn strayed in, found us there,
and remained also for tea.

200

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Going away, we met the host and his wife returning
from their drive, but they passed us too quickly for more
than a hasty bow to our friend. It seemed to me so delight-
fully un-English 1 Imagine two sets of people in an
English town straying into another person's house, finding
no one at home, and all of them quietly remaining for tea
and rest on their friend's veranda!

I should recommend all travellers who can do so, to plan
their Japanese tour as we did, from west to east, entering
the country at the Kioto end, and finishing up with the
wonders of Nikko. Otherwise everything will be apt to
appear "flat, stale, and unprofitable." After the glorious
Nikko temples, and the beauty of the vicinity, the
real charms of Kioto will not be appreciated as they
deserve.

Nikko, literally and metaphorically, " takes the colour
out of everything else in Japan, and should therefore be
kept as a honnc louche at the end of the feast — or to
change this very mixed metaphor, good amateur singing
may give immense pleasure, but we shall scarcely be pre-
pared to do full justice to it as a sequel to one of Patti's
divine airs.

Knowing all this we had put off Nikko to the last,
intending to take it quietly and enjoy ourselves fully,
instead of making the hasty rush through that seems to
satisfy the ordinary tourist.

We soon found, alas ! one or two good reasons for such

H1»,'IP'1WB»"»'-V

JAPAN.

201

a speedy return; for the accommodation In this exquisite

spot is very bad.

But I will describe this our last expedition at some
length. Nikko was to form part of an eighteen days' trip
into the interior of Japan, and having engaged a guide
from Yokohama, we spent one night again at Tokio in
order to make final arrangements, and lay in a stock of
potted meats and soups sufficient to last us for the time

required.

The most trying point in Japanese travel is the terrible
want of sleep which an ordinary traveller must face, more
especially in the summer season. Out of the eighteen
days spent on this particular expedition, for example, I
never had more than three or at most four hours' sleep on
any night, and for nights together one lay awake for
hours; first dozing off towards daylight, in time to make
t^ e early rise and early start, a real affliction.

Some few happy people are impervious to all noises and
every other drawback, but I am sure that most travellers
will bear out my statement to some degree ; although I trust
few will have had an identical experience, for I am peculiarly
unfortunate in being a very nervous sleeper at all times.

But I believe the Seven Sleepers themselves would have
woke np sometimes in Japan !

The disturbances are so many and so great.
Frogs croaking, fleas jumping, mosquitoes biting ; add to
these the noises of men and women! especially when they pull

202

KALEIDOSCOPE,

the heavy outside wooden shutters to and fro, late at night
and by cockcrow in the morning, just when, fairly exhausted
by a long night's campaign with the fleas, you may be just
dropping for the first time into an uneasy slumber.

Leaving Tokio at midday, we reached XJtsonimiya in three
hours, and there engaged our 'rickshas for the four hours
drive to Nikko. The rail went as usual through an un-
interesting part of the country. The day was dull and foggy,
but began without actual rain.

The drive to Nikko lies through avenues upon avenues of
fir, ilex, and cryptomeria ; the latter, a splendid species of pine
which grows just here in great profusion and to an immense
height, some of the trees measuring from 150 to 200 feet.
They grow so straight that the wood is very much used in
making the masts of ships.

We admired the avenues immensely at first, but the absolute
monotony of scene became wearisome.

Then the rain began ; drizzling at first but becoming more
severe every few minutes.

We reached Nikko at length, tired, hungry, and wet, about
8 P.M., when it was too dark to see anything of the town.
Our guide insisted upon taking us to see the " Suzuki " tea-
house, just before crossing the two bridges of Nikko. A mile
further on, over the bridge and up the hill, is " Kanaya's "
tea-house, which is small but much pleasanter in every way,
being cleaner and far more beautifully situated.

We went in to see it next day, and should have insisted

JAPAN.

203

upon moving up there, but unfortunately the rooms were all
engaged by some Russian celebrities who were coming to
spend some weeks in the neighbourhood.

As this house is so superior but limited in accommodation,
it would be well for other travellers to engage rooms

beforehand.

The guides are not likely to look with favour on such a
proceeding, as Kanaya, having a good reputation, and large
clieiime, probably gives them no commission upon the
travellers brought to his house. Suzuki must evidently do
so, for no one in his senses could otherwise compare the two
tea-houses, as our own guide did, to the disadvantage of
the smaller one. The " red lacquer bridge " of Nikko is close
to Suzuki's, and has the usual legend attached to it.

A " holy man," Shodo Shonin, came here and found the
rocks so steep, and the whirlpools between them so rapid and
dangerous, that a crossing seemed quite impossible.

He prayed, however, to Buddha and the gods, and im-
mediately saw faint outlines of the god Shinsa Daio holding
two red and green snakes which he cast into the abyss.
In an instant a long bridge floated across like a rainbow
amongst the hills, and the holy man passed over it in

safety.

The present bridge was built in 1635, and is eighty-four
feet long by eighteen feet wide. It is closed at both ends

by locks.

In olden times only the Shoguns were allowed to pass over

204

KALEIDOSCOPE.

this sacred bridge. The privilege is now reserved for the
Mikado.

In spite of the most pronounced " anti-boring " principles,
I find it impossible to write of gorgeous Nikko without say-
ing something more of the temples which are here seen to the
greatest advantage. One of the finest of these is the " To Sho
Gu," approached by a grand avenue of cryptomeria trees.

Words fail to describe the garden of this temple. It is
" depraved Shinto " in style ; that is to say, Shinto which has
lost its simplicity and taken on Buddhist decoration, but
escaping the gaudiness which marks so many of the true
Buddhist temples.

The carvings in wood of dragons, birds, storks, pheasants,
&c., are coloured in beautiful shades of green, pink, white,
crimson, and cream.

The best of these were done by the celebrated left-handed
artist, Hidari Jingoro.

Many buildings are grouped together on this temple
ground. First and foremost, on a raised platform, is the
wonderful Yomei-Mon, or Dream Gate, a marvel of gilding
and carving; beautiful indeed as a dream. This gate
has a double row of gilded dragons all round it, each
dragon opening its mouth in a different way from all the
others.

We came back again and again to this exquisite Dream
Gate, and never wearied of discovering fresh wonders of colour
and carving in its sublime grandeur.

JAPAN.

205

The Buddliist scriptures are kept in a splendid revolving
lacquer shrine, each compartment of which opens, revealing
numerous little drawers full of holy manuscript.

Two handsome "drum towers" contain the drums beaten
to call worshippers to the temple. Here also are to be seen
a fine bronze candelabra, given by the King of Riukiu, and
an equally handsome bronze bell, the gift of the King of
Corea, and nicknamed the " Moth-eaten Bell" on account of
a hole in the bronze.

Every bit of stone wall around these buildings is covered
with red, green, or blue painting over the stone trellis-work,
the interstices being filled in with wonderful carvings in
painted wood of fabulous dragons, combined with birds,
beasts, and fishes.

The most gorgeous building of all is the central one, which
is one mass of grand colouring, lacquer, and bronze.

This building has lovely bamboo curtains raised by thick
cream-coloured cords, and is so crowded with exquisite bronze
and lacquer ornaments, &c., that it is hopeless to give any
idea of its marvels.

I noticed specially some small lacquer pillars, as hard
as bronze, and made entirely of lacquer, one coating placed
upon the other. This is the most expensive work in Japan,
each of these pillars having cost two millions of dollars !

The wood- work of all these buildings is lacquered over with
a beautiful crimson shade that forms an exquisite contrast to
the background of the trees.

206

KALEIDOSCOPE.

The temple of " To Sho Gu " is specially famous as the
shrine of lyeyasu, the celebrated Shogun, who gave peace to
his country for two hundred and seventy years by winning a
decisive battle. His tomb lies two hundred feet above the
temple. It is as usual of plain bronze in cupola form, and
with handsome bronze gates in front.

The other grand Nikko temple is dedicated to lyemitsu,
and likewise consecrated to the Shinto form of worship. It
is crowded with exquisite wood carvings, lacquer, and gilding,
but not being quite so gorgeous as "To Sho Gu," I have
chosen the latter to describe at greater length.

There is a curious monument to lyemitsu, a high
bronze pillar, with tiny bronze bells hanging round it, very
graceful, and quite different from most of the Shogun
monuments.

Another temple in these grounds is dedicated to the
goddess and patroness of children (Kishibojin), who is said
to have had a thousand children herself, so should cer-
tainly know something about the care of them. Another
red-lacquer building contains the bones of Yoritomo, but
as these are kept carefully in a tiny gold shrine under
a- image of Buddha, we were forced to take them on

trust.

The real charm of the Japanese temples begins when the
sight-seeing is over, and you are free to feast your eyes on
the graceful outlines of these gilded and dark-brown or
dark-crimson tiled roofs, blending with the various shades of

JAPAN.

207

moss-grown stone steps, and the beautiful cryptomeria, pines,
and other fir-trees which surround them.

On the second day of our visit to Nikko, we had our
first experience of the famous Icago, which is used for
mountain excursions, where neither the jinricksha nor a
bamboo-chair are possible means of conveyance. The
kago looks exactly like a round wicker tea-tray, slung by
bamboo supports on to a stout bamboo pole, which is borne
by a coolie at each end. A thin plaited bamboo roof protects
the wretched inmate from the outside sun. The tiny little
Japanese men and women fit comfortably enough into these
instruments of torture, sitting cross-legged in Turkish
fashion.

But the poor European has a bad time in one of them !
You must scramble in sideways like a crab, and feel very
much like a sick snail when you get there ! The pole comes
down so low that it is impossible to wear a hat on your head,
and the traveller is most uncomfortably close to the ground.

We went about six miles out to a beautiful Avaterfall, as
our " preliminary canter " in kagos, for it was necessary to
crrow accustomed to this mode of convej'ance before starting
on our combined hago and 'ricksha expedition to Chiusengi
Lake, and on to Ikao.

The very moderate demands of the Japanese coolies
increase in inverse ratio to the amount of civilization. In the
large towns, the prices are low, but once off the beaten track,
monopoly as usual runs up the tariff, and we were obliged to

208

KALEIDOSCOPE.

be very firm, both with our guide and the coolies, before
the bargain could be struck with any sort of self-respect

on our side.

It ended in our leaving Nikko one morning with three
Ixigos, one for my friend, one for myself, and a third for our
little guide. Three men were required for each of our two
Icafjos, but our little Jap was so small and light that two
men could easily carry him, so the third coolie was utilized
to bear our provisions, sheets, towels, food, and pots and pans,
and the small baggage absolutely necessary for two nights.

The rest of our very modest belongings were to be sent on
next day from Nikko in the 'rickshas which would reach us
by another route at the further end of the Copper Mine Pass.
Fuji (our guide) looked like a young boy, but said he was
thirty-two years old, and had not only a wife but a little son
of nine years old.

He had an odd, abrupt manner, not intentionally rude, but
very unlike the " gentle Jap " with whom we had hitherto
made acquaintance. It amused us to notice the extraordinary
influence of clothes. When in his guide dress (true European)
he was bluff, abrupt, and rather apt to be sulky.

In the evenings, when the day's work was over and he got
into his Japanese Jcimo7ia, a wondrous change came over him.
Not only did he look much better, but he became at once
more amiable and gentle. We thought of asking him always
to put on the Jcimona when places and arrangements had to be
made and discussed !

JAPAN.

209

Fuji, however, had some very excellent qualities, and was
perhaps none the worse for being a rough diamond. He was
extremely careful that we should not over-walk ourselves,
saying calmly, when he thought we had had enough exercise,
" Now, missus, you come and lie down," which meant another
scramble into the h(no.

The road to Chiusengi is over a mountain pass, a number
of rough steps cut into the earth leading up to the top. Fuji
declared there were a thousand of these to be climbed, and on
my saying mildly, "Oh! Fuji, there cannot he a thousand,"
he answered laconically, "Can'. I am afraid I laughed
instead of scolding him, but the tone was so inimitable, and
more like that of a naughty rude child than the father of a
family !

We had some grand mountain views from the various spots
where we rested in making the ascent. It was very severe
work for the hayo men, but we cased them as much as
possible by walking up all the steepest places.

About every two minutes (fifty steps) there is a halt to
change shoulders or men; for the third man walks behind
and pushes when the otlier two are carrying the harjo pole.
Tliese various changes are made most amicably, the " off
man" being always ready for his turu of "active
service."

Going up the steep places, the men keep up a monotonous
chant on two notes which sounds like " Cusho-Ci(sha, Citsho-
Casha" the accent being on the first .syllable. This seems

h i

r I

210

KALEIDOSCOPE.

in some mysterious way to help them. Perhaps on the
same principle as the song of the " little bastik " in Jlelen's
Babies, which Toddie declared made him feel " all good and

nicey inside."

On reaching the magnificent head of the pass, we
scrambled down some wooden steps to see a beautiful
waterfall, consisting of seven small falls ranged round a
precipitous amphitheatre of rocks about 700 feet high.

These rocks are serrated at the edges in the most curious
way, exactly as if some giant had taken a huge pair ot
scissors and snipiml them into V sbapes. The colouring
is of every varied tint of rose-colour and grey.

A fringe of the snipped rock hangs over the chasm with
very strange efifect.

Thousands of tiny birds circle round this beautiful
amphitheatre, getting a bath now and again in the waters
that flow down the rocky sides in seven or eight distinct

streams.

We reached Chiusengi, and had our first view of the
lovely lake about four o'clock in the afternoon.

Mountains clothed in verdure rose up on all sides. The
whole length of the sheet of water is about six and a half
miles, but the small villages and tea-houses are quite at the
upper end of the lake, and it narrows so much just below
these that we could only see from the windows of our tea-
house the circular portion nearest to us.

We had brought our own sheets and made our own beds,

JAPAN.

211

for the natives do not understand the European way of
putting on sheets.

A wide veranda stretching in front of our rooms " gave "
on to the lake, and here wo dined, watching the beautiful
sunset effects over the mountains and the calm blue water
at our feet.

Salmon trout from the lake, a very skinny chicken
which we had seen "drawn" and then washed in the
lake after our an-ival (killed also, I should imagine, from its
toughness), and some horrible coffee made from the paste
which Fuji insisted upon bringing with him, formed our
modest meal.

Fleas abounded as usual, but the mos(|uitocs mercifully
were conspicuous by their absence.

Next day we made an expedition to the neighbouring lake
of Yumoto, much frequented by the natives for its sulphur

baths.

Passing along a fine wide plain, with glorious mountain
views, we ascended by degrees to the Dragon WaterfoU, so
called from the shape of the rocks over which the water falls.

Carpets of the most gorgeous azaleas in deep crimsons,
white, and pink, and with monster blossoms, surrounded us ;
for in these high regions the flower was just then in fullest

bloom.

Further on, we came upon another grand waterfall, coming
sheer down over an almost perpendicular slab of granite,

600 feet in height.

p 2

212

KALEIDOSCOPE

Azaleas, purple and lemon columbino, tree hyclraugeas, and
feathery white deutzia lined our road.

It was well to have so much beauty to make us forget the
jolting misery of the higos.

A very steep ascent from the last fall brought us shortly to
the little village of Yunioto, situated at the head of a lake of
that name, which is about two and a half miles long.

Fuji was most anxious that we should have a sulphur bath,
but threatening weather had delayed our start, and we had
no time for more than a stroll throuuh tlie village to the
source of the sulphur spring.

Men, women, and children, were sitting happily together in
public baths along the road ; these baths being square in-
closures fed by bamboo aqueducts from the sulpliur spring.
No conventional ideas of propriety seem to arise to spod
the happiness and comfort of these little family parties. It
is Eden before the Fall and the Fig-leaves.

On the return to Chiusengi, we left our higos with great
delight after two hours, and came back to Chiusengi in a boat
acro°ss the lovely lake. Lake Chiusengi is 3,700 feet above
the sea-level, and eight miles long. High mountains inclose
it on every side, the village nestling at the foot of Nantaisan,
one of the holy mountains of Japan, 9,000 feet high, and
which " divides honours " with Fuji-yama.

Another night of croaking frogs and biting fleas, brought
us to the morning, when we were to start for the Copper
Mine Pass.

JAPAN.

•213

A boat took lis and our IcngnH across the Cliiuscnsi Lake,
and thence up and over the magnificent scenery of the Copper
Mine Pass, into tlie very heart of the glorious mountains.
We walked down the other side of tlie Pass by the Copper
Mine Mountain, which is being extensively worked. Smelt-
ma furnaces are built on the sides of the mountain, and a
long series of aqueducts convey the water needed for
"wasliing" the metal. The copper is sent off direct to
Osaka to be converted into coin at the Osaka mmt.

Two more hours in the iMgos brought us to a shed where
we found the 'rickshas which had been sent on for us
the previous day from Nikko.

We got into them with great delight, but, alas ! it was
" out of the frying-pan into the fire." The road was tei-ribly
rough, and the jolting of the 'ricks in proportion to it.

The scenery of the Aseo Pass was so magnificent, however,
tliat we were in a constant state of excitement and delight,
in spite of our poor suffering bodies.

We had found the 'ricks at 11 A.M., but did not reach
Omama (our sleeping-place) till 8 P.M.. by which time it was
quite dark for our drive through the endless Japanese village
to our quarters for the night.

A dirty little tea-house devoured by fleas— that is all I
remember of Omama when I arose after a sleepless night
with a lively remembrance of the fatigues of the preceding

day.

Some three or four hours over coi.^paratively tame scenery

214

KALEIDOSCOPE.

and a series of rice-fields brought us to Mayebashi, where we
were once more within reach of civilization. All through this
district the silk business is carried on very extensively.

Thousands of cocoons are drying before the houses of the
native villages, and the fine white silk is being reeled oS" by
wooden machines, which fly round in the hands of pretty
young Jap girls or withered old Jap women.

The mulberry-trees which abound here are smaller than
ours, and the leaves are more pointed.

The fruit also is dwarfed, o'.ving to the constant stripping
of the leaves in the interest of the silk looms.

After lunch and a rest at Mayebashi, we had still six hours
more in our 'ricks before reaching Ikao, where we had
agreed to spend two or three days. The heat was intense,
and the last three or four miles were on a constant ascent ;
mercifully through shady woods, but a very trying road, being
all what is technically called " collar work."

Several coolies had fallen off during the day, sick from the
great heat and from drinking too much cold water. No
wonder, poor creatures ! Their first idea on entering a village
is to bury their heads in a tub of water, drinking down all
they can and soaking their handkerchiefs in the rest. Later
on these same handkerchiefs are wrung out over and over
again after being passed over their hot bodies and faces.

It is a hard life, and the coolie class is said to be very
improvident. They lay nothing by for old age, which comes
very quickly on them, for at thirty or forty a coolie is no

JAPAN.

215

longer able to run at the pace required. Heart disease is
very prevalent amongst them, as might easily be imagined.

The crown of beautiful mountains surrounding the little
village of Ikao looked very lovely in the setting sun, with
glorious billows of crimson and gold clouds standing far out
from the sky, and a tiny young moon peeping forth for
the first time as we came to the end of our long day's

journey.

Ohl the luxury of a room to one's self and a wash-
stand, no matter how primitive, inside of it. Hitherto my
friend and I had been forced to adjourn to the open veranda
and do our washing there, pitching the water down from the
tin basin for the next one to fill again, and in view of an
admiring crowd of spectators, chiefly men. At Ikao,
although the rooms are divided by screens in tea-house
fashio^, European customs obtain sufficiently for a wash-
stand to be placed inside the room.

Ikao boabts of an iron spring and iron baths, which are
hot and extremely pleasant.

Bands of cotton steeped in the iron water and coloured
like iron mould are sold in the little village, and much
esteemed for their tonic effect.

It is a dirty little village, built on the side of a hill,
but commanding magnificent views of the mountains

opposite.

Ikao possesses two hotels, and we chose the higher of

these on account of the view.

216

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Our first (lay there was spent ia sorely needed rest, loung-
ing on cane chairs in our veranda, watching the magnificent
mountains and — mending our clothes !

On the second day, my friend elected to remain quiet again,
so I started off alone, with guide and coolies, for Haruna, and
was rewarded by seeing some of the most beautiful scenf iv
in Japan.

The expedition embraces a lake, some glorious mountain
views, and a romantic little temple amongst the rocks at the
end of it. The distance is only eight miles, but the ground is
very steep, and we took three hours to get there, including
rests at the various tea-houses en route.

A naval officer from the American flag- ship Brooliyn
was in a sedan chair just in front of me on his way to join a
friend at the first tea-house, whence they were to ascend one
of the highest mountains in the district. He came forward
very pleasantly with a " Good morning, madam. I presume
you are about to proceed to Haruna ? " and we chatted very
comfortably for ten minutes Avhilst my coolies rested. How
thoroughly un-English ! and yet how sensible to break the
monotony of the long day for both of us !

If an Englishman had attempted to do it, he would have
failed through mcmvaise konte, or the fear that the lady might
resent it as an impertinence. Certainly " they manage these
things better in America."

After an hour's ascent, I reached the tca-lv use, whence the
grandest view is obtaiiu'd, and lietice a uesccut '-i ;hree-

JAPAN.

217

quarters of an hour brought us to the quaint little Haruna
Temple, built amongst some very curious rocks.

Some of these are shaped like bridges, others like the
saddle and bridle of a horse, &c. One, called the Candle Rock,
rises to a height of one hundred and fifty feet, and is almost
perpendicular. Fuji assured me that twice a year the priest
climbs up here (although there is no footing visible) to take
up some of the "holy paper" used in Shinto worship, leaving
it about two-thirds up the rock, where there is a httle ledge
in the stone. No one else could possibly do it, but the " holy
man " has done it for years and never hurt himself.

My Uttle guide declared that he had witnessed the perform-
ance several times. Looking at the rock and hearing the
" miracle," I could only say as the Duke of Wellington is
reported to have done, " Well, as you tell me it is so, of course
I believe it ; but I can assure you that had I seen it myself I
should not have believed it ! "

I returned to Ikao quite charmed with the Haruna expedi-
tion, which turned out to be the very last really ddujlitful day
that I spent in Japan.

Next morning we left Ikao, and returning pretty much on
our former track, reached the Itsuka Station in about three
hours, where my friend and I were to separate for a week.

She had had euougli of the roughness and discomfort of
Japanese travel, and determined to go back to Yokohama
instead of completing the tour, which had been arranged
to take in Lake Suwa on the Nakasendo road.

Innumerable travellers had spoken of tlje extreme

^ I

218

KALEIDOSCOPE.

beauty of this road, warning us against the chance of
missing it, and all had insisted upon the fact that the chief
beauty lay to the east of the lake.

Havinpr determined to penetrate so far at least, I made
up my J ' carry out the programme and go on alone
with the gu: • and the coolies.

The expedition proved a lamentable disappointment, and
on this occasion Fortune certainly did not favour the brave.
The little I shall write of my experiences in this portion
of the " heart of Japan " is intended rather as a warning than
as an example to go and do likewise. The Nakasendo
road is doubtless beautiful in some parts, but those parts
must lie on the Kioto side and between thaL city and Lake
Suwa, and not between Tokio and the lake as we had
been assured by various travellers.

The only thing of any great interest I saw was the view
of the burning' mountam, Asamayama, which we gained just
before reaching Oiwak^, at the end of my first long day's
journey. We passed many pilgrims, both men and women,
clothed in white, on their way to ascend this "holy mountain."

A dull stony road brought us next day within seven miles
of Wada. Here, certainly, some fine views 'vere to be had
after crossing a bridge of boats until the village of Wada
was reached, but even here I saw nothing to compare for
beauty with many of the places already seen.

The third day's journey proved the most disappointing of
all. A long weary road, stony and jolting, lumpy green hills
covered with scrub, brought us over the Wadatogc Puss, and

JAPAN.

219

in time to Lake Suwa, where I looked in vain for the
much vaunted beauties I had been led to expect. Suwa is a
circular lake, about five miles in diameter. One half of the
circle incloses flat rice fields; on the other half, low lumpy
hills rise nbove the water's edge.

Altogether 1 was by far the least interesting expedition in
Japan, and had entailed a week of solitude (for we never saw a
European until I got back to Yokohama), much expense, and
still more discomfort and hard work.

With all my heart I wish that I had been leas enterprising,
and had returned quietly to Yokohama with my friend !

On the other hand, had I done so, I should doubtless have
considered that I had lost my chance of seeing the most
beautiful part of Japan.

As the man said, when assured that "zoedone" was far
better than champagne, " Well, champagne is good enough
for me." So I felt, after the weary pilgrimage to Lake Suwa
and back, that Haruna, the Aseo Pass, and Chiusengi Lake,
were "quite good enough for me."

As a rule, I think, going off the beaten track is apt to
prove a disappointment. It sounds dehghtful, and suggests
infinite possibilities, but the best in scenery is soon discovered
in these days of universal travel. In nine cases out of ten,
therefore, going off the beaten track now means greater
discomfort, extortionate prices, owing to monopoly and absence
of competition, and not very much to repay one when all is
said and done. I have already said so much about the fleas
in Japan, that it is needless to pile up the agony further

220

KALEIDOSCOPE.

than by remarking the fact, that the finest and most numerous
specimens haunt the tea-houses of the Nakasendo road,
between Tokio and Lake Suwa.

The only interest about the latter place was a visit I paid
to a' large silk factory here, where more than two hundred
girls are employed. On the way to the lake we had passed
horses and mules, with paniers packed with baskets full of
silkworm cocoons being taken to this manufactory.

The silk is wound by machinery here. The worms
themselves are dried and eaten as a great luxury by the
inhabitants. The smell was quite enough for me, and I was
glad to hurry out of the establishment as quickly as possible.
I had to reti.ico my steps by the same road to Itsuka and
Yokohama, and felt much relieved and delighted to rejoin
my friend at the latter place, after all the fatigues and
isolation of the long week, during which I had been thrown
entirely upon Fuji's very limited stock of English for
companionship.

The proper and politic thing would have been to declare
on my return that this was by far the best pai'- of the whole
trip, but an awkward habit of blurting out the truth on all
occasions deprived me of even this small consolation.

I can only trust that my experience may serve as a warning
to others ; whilst for myself it is only philosophical to
remember that one week of discomfort and disappointment
was more than compensated for by the weeks of great de-
light and thorough enjoyment of the most beautiful country
in the world.

■■■■■

JAPAN,

221

My a-lvice to those who are "thinking ahout going to
Japan "is," Don't (te*, but GO NOW."

Each year will take away something more of its ongmahty

and charm.

The rapid strides of civilization that make the eonntry
more interesting every year from on« point of view, destroy
its interest from the historieal and artistie stand-pomt.

It i, mueh to he feared that "civili.cd Christiamly " may
brin- the usual evils in its train, and that the kindly, simple-
minded, joyous little Japs may become as graspi.,g and selfish
in their dealings with each other as other civilized " Chris-
tian" men and women have too often proved themselves m
these days of fierce competition. "Get to the top of the
Mder yourself, and then kick it down," seems too often
the modern rendering of St. Paul's maxim, "Look not
every man on his own things, but every man also on the

things of others."

At present this Christian virtue « to he found, and to bo

fomrd very conspicuously, amongst this simple happy people;

but it is impossible to say how long it may bo so m the face

of advancing civilization.

So I would say to every one, "By all moans go and see
them whilst they still retain some vestiges of heathen vn-tue,
,„d are kind and helpful to one another." This and therr
bappy i„»,.a«~, and the charm, beauty, and sunshme of
the country, will make the traveller forget for a time the
cold stiff formalities of life that probably await him when
be llnves this Paradise, and the gates swing backbelund bun.

■n

CHAPTER VII.

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

From Yokohama to Vancouver— Fop; and mist— Harmonious company —
A Tower of Babel— A stump road in Vancouver— We start for Alaska
—A few suggestions to the Pacific Coast S.S. Company— A kindly
captain— Departure Bay— An intrepid globe-trotter— Mr. Duncan's
mission— Doctor Doane'a hymns— A breach of promise case— Senti-
ment and doUara — Salmon catching- Fort Wrangle— Fish traps — An
Indian war-dance — Totem poles— Our first glaciers— Juneau— Indian
baskets— An Indian village— The Treadwell Mine— A new play-
fellow—A female victim— Chilcote and Pyramid Harbour— The
glories of Glacier bay— A run on the glacier— We lose our way —
Suspense— All's well that ends well— Sitka— The Castle— Lady
Franklin— The ghost of the Castle— A romantic story— Mission
homes a' Sitka— Presbyterian theology — A distressed teacher —
A theological distinction — A mournful exhibition — A simple prayer
— A hot saloon — A martyr to soap and water — Tlie Greek Church
at Sitka— Peril Pass— Rolling powers of the G. W. Elder— Jonah
and the whale — A deserted village — Back to Victoria — Driard Hotel
— General remarks on Alaska expedition.

A TRIP to Alaska had been an old cherished plan of ours
since our visit to Victoria in Vancouver's Island some
years previously, when wc had watched with envious ey...
our fellow passengers from San Francisco who were about
to embark on this expedition.

We wrote therefore beforehand for accommodation in the

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

223

Steamer which was to take up passengers from Victoria
on the 13th of August.

Meanwhile we had the sixteen days' voyage between
Japan and Vancouver still before us, and set sail in an
old Cunarder the Abyssinia, chartered by the Canadian
Pacific Company, and leaving Yokohama on July 24th,
reached the small new township of Vancouver on the morn-
inc^ of August 8th. A new line of steamers will shortly
be built for this voyage, which will then become part
of the high road between England and Japan. It is
calculated that with new and powerful engines the transit
can be effected in ten days.

The Canadian Pacific Railway Company's trains hope
to reach Montreal from Vancouver in four or five days
at the outside, and seven or eight days across the Atlantic
will put Japan within little more than three weeks'
journey of us, whereas at present the most direct steamer
cannot take us there under forty-two days. We had a
fairly smooth but a most monotonous voyage to Vancouver,
scarcely seeing the sun from shore to shore.

Fog and mist accompanied us the whole way, and the
dismal toll of the fog bell would have been most depressing
under ordinary circumstances.

Fortunately our fellow passengers although few in number
(some eighteen all told) made up in quaUty for lack of
quantity, and we were a most harmonious company in
spite of the drawback of differences of language, for
many nationalities were represented amongst us— English

221

KALKIDOSCOl'E.

%o\- '■'<■' '

Australian, French, Duteli, American, Canadian, and
German. There is a very beautiful bit of scenery passed
in approaching Vancouver, namely the "Active Pass," so
called on account of the strength of the currents here
encountered. It liots for about twenty minutes, and the
scenery is very lo .ely. It was our fortune to pass no less
than four times through it altogether, but we never quite
lost the first thrill of admiration Avhich came when we first
entered the Pass, and saw the exquisite verdure-clad hills
bathed in the evening sunshine, after our long spell of
darkness and focr.

Vancouver, which lies on the mainland and is the western
terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, is quite a small
townshiii, only two years old at the time of our visit, 188S.

The first town was destroyed by fire within a few months of
its existence.

The present one is a dusty, ugly little township, little
more than a mere clearing in the woods, but the harbour is
very beautiful; some large stores are springing up day by
day; there is already a fine handsome hotel built by the
Company, anu Western enterprise will, doubtless, shortly
develop the little town into quite a considerable city.
Its position, as a terminus of the railway and a seaport, is
bound to bring it conspicuously to the front as the passenger
and commercial trade of the Canadian Pacific Pwailway
develops,

Wc went for a nine miles' drive over a " stump road "
in the afternoon, to sec some very grand specimens of

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

225

tlie pine-tree to be found here, and the woods arc most
picturesque and beiiutiful.

Most of our fellow passengers were leaving next morning
by the direct rail for the East, but we had to retrace our
steps, and take a local steamer for Victoria, Vancouver's
Island, there to await our steamer for Alaska, which
started from Portland (Oregon), and was advertised to pick
up passengers at Seattle, Port Townsend, and Victoria.

We had plenty of time to renew our acquaintance with
the beauties of Victoria, for the Alaska steamer was two
days late, owing to the amount of freight to be taken up.
At length, in the early morning of Wednesday, August 15th,
we drove down to the wharf, where we had landed two years
previously, from San Francisco, and found our steamer, the
G. W. Elder, alongside, and waiting for us all to embark.

On the principle of getting over disagreeables as quickly as
possible, I had better ft once say, that the accommodation
onboard the Alaska steamers leaves a great deal to be desired.
I have nothing but kindly words to speak of the c^Mti-^in
and officers, and their wish that all should be comturtable
and happy, and I am perfectly aware of the great diffi-
culties of providing for a large number of people in these
out-of-the-way parts of the world.

As Doctor Johnson remarked about a woman's preach-
ing ; " It is like a dog dancing. It is not a question as to
whether the dog dances vxll, madam. The marvel is that
he should dance at all ! "

And so perhaps I may be called unreasonable for making

22G

KALEIDOSCOPE.

nny criticism in face of the fact that, steamers do go to
northerly regions, and are prepared to convey and feed
tliose tourists who ran bear " roughing it."

Jf T say something on the subject, it is done in no
cavilling spirit, but in the real interests of the company
(Pacific Coast Steam Ship) which runs these steamers, and
because I am sure that a little management, and a small
present sacrifice of gain, would amply repay them in the end,
and make a pleasurable excursion out of what is at prese'^
real source of miserable discomfort for most of the passer ^

People will always be found ready to " write up " any
excursion, and perhaps some few who are exceptionally strong
and exceptionally thick-skinned may really believe something
of what they write.

But I am sure that if our hundred and twenty passengers
had been asked, and had sjwken the truth without fear or
favour, seven-eighths of them would have admitted the truth
of what I am about to say.

The G. W. Elder is a 1,200 ton freight steamer, and in
no way fitted to carry passengers unless the numbers were
reduced very much below the figure on the occasion of our
excursion.

The cabins are extremely small, and when three passengers
are packed in each cabin, like herrings in a barrel, it is easily
understood that there must be considerable drawbacks to a
purely pleasure excursion.

One does not so much resent overcrowding when a steamer
is merely used as a necessaiy evil and mode of conveyance from

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

4) 07

MM I

one part of tlie world to another. Moreover, I have never
before travelled in a steamer where the cabin accommodation
was so liuiited.

It is only fair to say that larger and better appointed
steamers were put on by the company for a year or two, and
taken off because they did not pay.

This, however, seems to me to have been short-sighted
policy. To utilize a freight boat for a | ' 'usure excursion is
doubtless a temporary economy, but with the vast Continent
of America at hand as patrons, I cannot believe that the
company would not have recouped itself over and over again
for the extra comfort afforded, had they " possessed their
souls in patience " for a year or two, and been content to
sink a little capital until the expedition should be more
widely advertised.

Allowing however that this experiment cannot be repeated
at present, I think much might be done by reducing the
number of passengers for each trip,

I suppose the answer will be, that "the proof of the
pudding is in the eating," and so long as people do not
object to being flattened like pancakes and undressing on
their berths for lack of room, the company would be foolish
and quixotic to make other arrangements for them.

The question is, will people continue to eat the pudding ?
Doubtless the steamers at present are crowded, but then
Alaska just now is a novelty.

I cannot believe that this Spartan endurance will continue in
the future when the novelty of the thing has worn off a little.

Q 2

228

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Then, again, as to the question of food.
Many would have been content (as we should have been)
with the very simplest fare, decently cooked and served.
As it was, food, good in itself and in unnecessary quantities,
became uneatable from the manner in which it was presented
to us. Each meal had to be duplicated to meet the require-
ments of so many. All the food was, however, cooked at
one time, and left to get cold between the tirst and second
dinners; and one day at luncheon alone. I counted thirty
different dishes lying about and tumbling over each other,
all half cold, greasy, and unappetizing.

Two or three well-cooked courses— say, soup, meat, and
a choice of vegetables and puddings-would have satisfied
any reasonable person on such an expedition, and if served
hot at each dinner would have given far more satisfac-
tion and comfort than these endless dishes of ill-cooked

viands.

Even the phlegmatic Yankees began "to kick" after
the first few days, but so few people have the moral
courage to tell the truth ! No one likes " to make himself
disagreeable." Each one thinks, "Well, it won't matter
to me. When this voyage is over I am not likely to come
again," and so the evil grows unchecked. The purser
assured me that no one had ever grumbled or expressed
the slightest dissatisfaction before myself, and it may be
true. I can only say that plenty of dissatisfaction was
expressed behind his back, and I think it is unfair both,
to the company and the officers, not t.) be outspoken;

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

229

especially when so much of the evil can be so easily
remedied by a little supervision and management.

Our Captain (Hunter) was a most delightful man, and
a universal favourite ; always genial, always in good spirits,
and ready to help every one to the very utmost, and make
us all have as " good a time " as lay in his power.

We steamed up tlie first day from Victoria to a pretty
harbour called "Departure Bay," on the lucm a non
htccndo principle, for there we stuck a,t the side of a coal
wharf from Wednesday at 7 p.m. till 10 a.m. on the
following Friday.

The delay was occasioned by our having to take in coal,
which liad not even been quarried until our arrival.

A telegram was said to have been sent on four days
abead for it, but apparently with little effect. I believe
some disagreement between the coal agents was at the
bottom of the contretemps, but we poor victims were sorry
not to have had the chance of joining the vessel two days
later, by rail from Victoria, which could, easily have been

done.

The heat was intense when wu landed, and attempted
to sit among the trees on shore, and we were fain to return
to the ship, and get through the time as best we could.

Nearly all tlie passengers were Americans, and very
pleasant and friendly some of them were ! An energetic
American lady who had left a complaisant husband in
New Yoik, wlnlst she went round the world alone, inter-
ested mo as much as any one. especially by the ingenuity

t»>«»^w^»«.» » «,.»»»..» w^r j i^ lii-^fc/^s

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230

KALEIDOSCOPE.

with which she had planned to make the lengthy excursion
without any trunk or baggage. Two diminutive Russia
leather hand-bags and a " strap " to hold wraps, contained
her modest wardrobe. What a splendid campaigner she
would have made !

The old joke of the. Saturday Review about the lady who
went " through the Pyrenees with two petticoats " pales
before this far more wonderful achievement. She had
been six weelvs at route when we met her, and her one
hat and single pair of boots were not as yet much the
worse for wear. Of course no curios could be bought on
the way except such as could be shipped off at once to
New York, to await her return.

Leaving Departure Bay on a wet, foggy morning, we
steamed off, to the general delight, although for some hours
little could be seen except the enveloping clouds.

After passing the Gulf of Georgia, Johnstone's Straits, and
Queen Charlotte's Sound, we found ourselves ojiposite
Princess Royal Island, and a neat little white Indian village
with European looking houses, called " Bella Bella," and also
one or two waterfalls, which seemed very small to us, fresh
from our Japanese experiences.

Next morning it was interesting to arrive at a place
formerly called Port Chester, but now re-christened
"Metakahtla" by ]\[r. Duncan, the Scotch missionary, who
had settled down here only a year ago with an Indian tribe.

This latter inhabited a place of the same name in British
Columbia, but were turned out by the British Government.

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

231

They would have been allowed to remain on sufferance, but
deprived of all their rights, and forced to attend an
Episcopalian form of worship.

There was, moreover, a dispute about their land, which Mr.
Duncan says might have been decided in their favour had
they been able to afford to go to law. Whatever the rights
of the case may be, they were packed off here under his
charge, and have made a clearing and established a
settlement, running up a number of wooden houses.

Along building running out on wooden stakes into the
water at present serves as a church, but will eventually be
turned into a salmon tinning establishment. We lauded here
and heard part of an Indian servi-e. The Indians here are
perfectly civiHzed, and looked ver\ bright and intelligent.

It was hard to believe that they were pure " Indian," for
some of the children were scarcely coloured at all, and all of
them looked more like half-breeds.

They belong to the Tsimpean tribe (pronounced soft, like
Shimchean). The tribe consists of 800 in all, but many of
the men were off to the fisheries just then. There are 170
children entered on the books of the day school and Sunday

school.

They sang some hymns very prettily, but in English, not
being able to translate our English words into their many-
syllabled language.

A kindly and pleasant Dr. Doane, who was on board our
steamer with his wife and two neat Httle daughters, turned out
to be the author of several of Moody and Sankey's hymn tunes.

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Amongst others, he wrote the music for " Safe in tlie Arms
of Jesus," and the world famed "Old, old Stor\'." The Indian
children sang several of these hymns, much to liis delight.

Certainly the clean, happy, civilized look of these Indians
speaks volumes for Mr. Duncan's labours amongst them.

One can hardly believe that the settlement is only a year
old, and yet our Captain brought this missionary up here just
a year before our visit to his settlement.

All his supplies ai'c carried up by steamer from Portland.

It seems a curiously isolated life, for there are only two
white men in the settlement, but Mr. Duncan looks very well
and happy, and has a bright rosy face, which made one fer-
vently trust for his sake that the tribe might never relapse
into cannibal ways !

The European dress, as usual, is most disfiguring to the
Indians. They look, as the Japs did, sloppy and untidy,
instead of dignified and comfortable, as they would have done
in their own picturesque costume.

Leaving Mr. Duncan with many hearty good wishes, as well
as more substantial assurance of our interest in his great work,
we steamed on for two or three hours further to Fort Tongas,
where another stop was made.

My circumnavigating American lady friend amused me
very much that evening by a story of an English friend of
hers, who fell desperately in love with an American gentle-
man in New York, at the mature age of forty-five. I grieve
to say that the American jilted her, whereupon the tough
spinster brought a breach of i)romise case against him, and

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A TRIP TO ALASKA.

233

tough

refused to give up his letters under |5,000, which were duly
paid over to her by his solicitors.

" How that woman loved that man, to be sure," murmured
my informant, " and then to think how she. was cheated !
Why, she never saw more than $3,500, for her lawyer kept the
rest for his expenses. Ah ! Englishwomen are always bad
at business ! "

The mixture of love, romance, and the almighty dollar
struck me as very funny.

On Sur day evening we stopped at " Tongas Narrows," at a
" salmon cannery," to discharge a freight of tin sheeting to
be used for making salmon tins.

The ship does not now go right up to Fort Tongas, for the
navigation is considered too dangerous.

Great excitement prevailed amongst us. The rain was
coming down in a perfect deluge, but just across, '^on the
mainland, were a fev/ cottages and a waterfall at the back,
from which a stream ran down to the sea. Up this stream
hundreds and thousands of salmon wore to be seen leaping
and dancing about — so numerous that the men of the party
caught them in their hands and threw them on shore. As one
man said, " You could scarcely see the water for the salmon ! "
The fish only averaged from five to seven pounds in
weight, but the quantity was marvellous. Of course there
was no question of sport, only the excitement of such a novel
scene, and of watching the enormous leaps made right up the
waterfall by the poor salmon in their 'attempts to escape
from their capturcrs.

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

One of our most devout fellow passengers of the afternoon
at " Metakahtla," became just as enthusiastic over the salmon
as he had been earlier in the day over the Psalter ; a striking
example of the undoubted fact that temperament has much
to do with our special religious development.

Next day we were glad to get out all the winter clotliing
we had brought with us, for the cold weather had fairly set
in, and would continue now until our return to Victoria,
as our course would be constantly in a north-westerly
direction.

We landed shortly at Fort Wrangle, a township with two
small churches and a number of tiny wooden houses,
looking extremely European, as all these Alaska Indian
villages do.

The true Alaska Indians are of the Kleinket (pronounced
Klinl'd) tribes, Mr. Duncan's settlement being an exception,
and having migrated here from British Columbia.

A low line of blue mountains surrounds Fort Wrangle,
but the fog and mist lay deep upon them. The vegetation
is bleak and scrubby, endless small fir trees lining the banks
and covering the small islands which are passed from time
to time.

There is very little of interest to be bought in these Indian

villages. The Indians stand out for their money, asking
exorbitant prices and having a perfect monopoly in these far
away regions where no healthy breath of competition can enter.
They are spoiled by the periodical inroads of travellers
coming up on the summer steamers, who outbuy and outvie

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

235

luch

one another and so run up the prices. In the eagerness of
getting anything at all where the choice is so limited, one is
apt to forget to ask oneself if the article in question is really

worth having.

Some curious wooden traps for catching halibut (fish)
struck me as more characteristic than anything else ; for the
silver bracelets are dear and by no means pretty or curious.
These traps are very simply made, merely two pieces
of wood joined together at an angle, and a steel hook inside.
The bait is placed near the junction of the wood, and the fish,
after taking it, gets hooked in trying to " back out " again.
In the original old Indian traps these hooks are always made
of whales' teeth ; the steel hook being an innovation.

Many of the Indian women here wear a piece of ivory
inserted in the chin, a curious and disagreeable custom. It
looks just like a tooth protruduig through the chin. They
remove these bits of ivory as one would an earring and slip
them back again from the inside of the mouth. The women
beo-in to wear these ornaments when very young, increasing
the size of the ivory as they grow older.

The Alaska Indians are only slightly coloured, and look
less fierce than the North American ones that I have seen.
No doubt they could show fight on occasion, but con pared
with the latter they are rendered more helpless from de-
pending entirely on their canoes, whereas the pranie
Indians have "all tlie world before them where to roam."
We saw a very amusing Indian war dance in a shed
at Fort 'Vrangle. One Indian beat the drum, and

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236

KALEIDOSCOPE,

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I !

two others came in, dressed up with feathers sticking ont
of their heads. One man had his head covered with a
coloured flax cap, matching a sort of apron or blanket,
worn after the fashion of a kilt, and made of coloured
wools. The second man wore an apron ornamented by a
double row of bears' claws, and held in his hands two
tambourines, made of circles of wood with bears' claws
hanging from them by coloured wools. These tam-
bourines he clanged together during the whole per-
formance.

A gentleman of our party afterwards bought both the
drum and cymbals, for twenty-seven dollars.

The dance continued for about half an hour, ending by
one warrior tumbling down and making a very good " stage
death" on the floor, and then reviving to spring, dance
and shout at his adversary, till finally the whole perform-
ance ended by a war whoop of intense shrillness, and a
general stampede and collapse of all three men who had
taken part in it. They shouted out in English " All over,"
" Goodbye ! " and we took the hint and retired, having
paid twenty-five cents each for a dance that was decidedly
far more characteristic, and less of a swindle than most of
the native dances in other parts of the world.

Fort Wrangle is noted for the number of curious " totem
poles " to be found here in front of the native houses.
These poles are made by cutting down a tree and setting
it up in front of the house, carved with all manner of
quaint figures of men and animals. It seems to serve

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A TRIP TO ALASKA.

287

the

partly as an historical and genealogical "family tree," and
is also connected with native superstition, and supposed
to keep off evil spirits. Some of these carvings are very
clever, as well as curious, especially in one case, where
the marks of a bear's feet had been carved up the tree,
to the very top, where sat an image of the bear himself,
carved out of the wood and crouched up in a most extra-
ordinary attitude, with a beaming sort of leer upon his
wide open mouth. A wolf, with a head like a crocodile,
and legs like a frog, whales, owls, crows, frogs, and now
and then a human face— all these .vere represented in
turn, tier upon tier, on these curious poles.

It seemed very inconsistent to see two very ancient
totem poles set up in front of a modern looking wooden
house, with two bay windows ! Many of the houses here
have been shut up and deserted. No wonder ! for it is
one of the dreariest looking spots I ever beheld !

After lunch we went up on the bridge of the steamer to
see the glaciers in the neighbourhood of Wrangle as we
steamed on towards Junean, the chief trading port in

Alaska.

The glaciers were certainly the best 'hing we had yet seen.
Very weird and desolate the scenery looked, but we counted
eight glaciers all ahead of us and around us at the same
time, some of them coming sheer down to the water's edge,
where a quantity of drift ice lay around its margin.

The difficulty is to reahze that this water is all salt water,
and that the glaciers arc formed from 1,200 to 3,000 feet

> \

238

KALEIDOSCOPE.

1 1

only above the sea line, for we had not as yet passed any
mountains loftier than this. Moreover, we were only at 57°
of latitude, a little above the most northerly part of Scotland.

One curious looking rock, rising up close to a glacier here,
is called the Devil's Thumb.

The cold was intense as we steamed through all this
glacier district, and standing on the bridge was by no means
an unmixed pleasure in such biting winds, but having come
so far and gone through so much discomfort, it seemed folly
not to take advantage of any possible compensation in the
way of sight-seeing.

We reached Junean at midnight of Monday (August 21st),
and were tethered all night at a noisy wharf. In the morning
we watched the poor sheep and cows being landed by the
simple process of throwing them over the side of the ship to
swim to land as they best could. Some vainly tried to return
to the steamer, but were driven back. Two shec^^, however,
becoming hopelessly frightened, the men had to let down a
boat and row with them to the shore.

Junean is backed by high hills, and built on a small
plateau just at their foot and close on to the bay. It was very
cloudy when we first landed, but cleared oflf by degrees, and
then the town looked very picturesque in situation. Still, it
is cold and desolate even at this time of year, and it seemed
to me that a little bride of eighteen, who had come up with
us, would require a good deal of affection to reconcile her to
a residence here of some years at least with her husband, who
has a large store in the village.

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

239

The European portion of the Uttle township lies nearest
the wharf, and here also are the curio shops where goods are
sold at rather exorbitant prices. Some native blankets, made
from the wool of the mountain sheep, fetched fifty dollars
each. They were small, but the colouring was very good,
being a mixture of blue, yellow, and black, with a long white
fringe all round. Coloured baskets made of plaited fibre,
taken from between the bark and the tree, are the chief
speciality of Junean, and these are both useful and pretty,
being very supple and easily packed.

No compression hurts them, for the shape is easily restored
by a little water, and they can be utilized as work or waste
paper baskets, the colouring being generally very artistic
and pretty. After making our purchases, w- walked over
the hill to a pretty looking Indian village on the beach on

the other side.

Very picturesque this village looked, seen from the
enchanting distance of the hill, but it was filthily dirty upon
further acquaintance.

Some canoes lay on the shore, dirty old women in coloured
blankets and still dirtier children squatted around, and
the air was redolent of stale fish and grease and other

abominations.

Mar.y of the women smear their faces all over with a
s,ort of greasy coal black, giving the olTect of a mask, for
the natural faces of these Indians (the Auk tribe) is barely
copper coloured, being more the shade of a rather swarthy
European.

mmmimm

240

KALKIDOSCOPE.

The Indian native houses hero arc arranged in the follow-
ing fashion : threo or f(jur tiers of wooden steps run round
the four sides of the house, and all the cooking utensils,
clothing, &c., lie upon these, as also do most of the inhabit-
ants ; three or four families occupying the same house.
Some children are generally playing about on the earthen
floor, and in the middle a large square is cleared and
slightly sunken, to make the fire-place — a very simple one.

The Indians merely kindle a large wood fire in the centre
of the floor, and cook their food there, four large poles with
beams across marking it out and being utilized for smokinij
the fish which hangs in large quantities from the poles.

We then Avalked on to see the place where these Indians
cremate their dead.

Several large wooden mausoleums with native blankets
nailed in front and wooden crosses at the top, marked the
spot. A window in front of such a wooden " tomb " enabled
us to see some common American wooden trunks inside,
piled one on the top of the other, in which the ashes of the
departed are kejit !

It seemed a strangely incongruous idea when compared
with the beautifully carved and ornamented vases of the
ancients — to descend to a Saratoga trunk ! Some gaudy
handkerchiefs hung like banners from the roof.

In the afternoon we steamed off to Port Douglas, nearly
opposite Junean, where the famous Treadwell gold mine is
located.

We visited here first the stamping mill, whore, amidst

A TRIP TO .'T,.\SKA.

•2ii

cloafcuing noise, innumerable great crushers are at work,
crushing out tlie stony quartz.

This is reduced to powder, and washed through over largo
troughs, into other troughs with a constant sideward motion
which sieves the r^uartz water. Then the gold (free gold)
being heaviest, falls into a receiver, as at the "placer " mines
in America, and the rest, containing the lighter sulphate of
gold and gold pyrites, is conveyed further on, to be dealt with
by a new chemical process which frees it from the rest of
the diluted quartz. Even the free gold (or true gokl) has to
be separated later from the earth surrounding it, but its
greater weight causes it to free itself by dropping away from
the general mass.

In this mill no one could either speak or hear. It seemed
as if one would never be able to hear again ; and the most
ludicrous dumb show Avcnt on, every one trying to point
out and explain, and no one being able to speak when it
came to the test, for the noise was so deafening that it was
impossible even to pitch the voice.

This stamping-mill, the largest in the world, has two
hundred and forty stamping machines at work, and crushes
from 800 to 1,000 tons of quartz daily.

From hence we climbed up a very steep hill to see the
quarry from which the quartz is taken, for this famous mine
is a "superficial" one, that is to say, it is worked from the
outside by blasting the rocks on the hill side, which are full
of gold quartz. The gold is not found in any great quantities
at any special point, but the whole mass of the quartz is so

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'- •'!

242

KALEIDOSCOPE.

impregnated witli it that it pays to work it out by this new
and economical chemical process. The average yield, how-
ever, is not more than nine to twelve dollars' worth of gold
to the ton.

A deep fissure has been blasted in the rocks, leaving a
large circular pit, about three hundred feet deep from the
top of the cliff. A shaft is sunk from the cliff-top to the
circular pit, and thence further down to the level of the sea,
where a tunnel conveys the quartz to the crushing-mill.

On the side of this rocky ravine holes are drilled to receive
gunpowder for the blasting which takes place twice a day.
It is the largest gold mine in this part of the world, and
most interesting, as all the operations can be so easily seen.

As we returned to the ship after seeing this mine, we
found a boy on the wharf holding a dear little baby bear of
four months old by a chain. A gentleman and his wife from
the Eastern States had promised their little boy, a child of
four years old, to look out for a " real bear " when they
started upon this expedition.

The opportunity was too good to be lost. The bear was
bought for a few dollars and speedily transferred to the
upper deck, where he became a great favourite, but began
by giving rather a severe ^joi with his paw to one of three
little pups belonging to the captain, who were already
established there.

It was a very tame little bear, but evidently did not
wish to mak>: acquaintance with any "inferior anin.als,"
although (juit^ friendly with the human ones on board !

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

243

Quite eo-rly next nioniing, about 5 a.m., I chanced
to look out of my port window, and saw a glacier we
were passing which came sheer down to the water's
edge, with a very thin line of fir trees between it and
the sea.

The previous evening wc had watched a glorious sunset
from the deck, which lighted up the Juneaa mountains
with shades of faint green, crimson and gold, whilst a
lovely deep rose pink covered the glacier close at hand.

We arrived at Pyramid Harbour, close to Ghilcote, at
6.30 A.M. It is so named after a small mound of earth in
pyramid form at the inouth of the Ijarbour. Snow- moun-
tains rise up all around, and several glaciers are to be
seen within seven or eight miles. Ti,j,s is merely a salmon
canning depot, but one poor lady who came up with us
has to live here for the summer months, as her husband
has an interest in the large canning establishment. She
pointed out to me a tiny log house with no windows which
is to be her abode. Yet she seemed a refined fragile
woman. I cannot understand any jhrnykan woman
submitting to such a dismal fate !

We went out in a small launch to see the salmon nets,
and to bring back a " take " of four hundred and fifty salmon,
varying from five to twelve pounds in weight. It was
horrible to see the men hooking the poor creatures whilst
still alive, to shift them from one part of the boat to the
other, throwing back the worthless ones into the sea. A.
most brutalizing occupation I should think ! It was a

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244

KALEIDOSCOPE.

\Si

relief to look from the blood red water up at the beautifid
snow-tipped mountaias and glaciers.

I have omitted to mention an adventure after leaving
the Treadwell mine the previous evening. After steaming
for about an hour, the engines were suddenly reversed,
and I found that we were retracing our steps at about
ten o'clock at night. It turned out that the chief engineer
and a priest had been suddenly found missing !

They had gone back to the mine, thinking that we should
not sail till midnight, whereas the captain found he could
get off after discharging his freight, by nine o'clock.

The discovery of their absence was made by the merest
chance from the lucky fact that something was required
which the chief engineer had in charge. Of course, a
half-hour whistle had been sounded, but the men, being
in the mine, had failed to hear this, and their plight
would have been a miserable one had the discovery not
been made till next morning.

We left Pyramid Harbour and Chilcote within a few
hours of our arrival there, and steaming off to Glacier
Bay, the most northerly point of the expedition, cast anchor
there next morning (August 23rd) at 10 A.M.

What marvels met our delighted eyes ! I think this one
spot repays one for the whole expedition, and puts to flight
once and for ever, any comparison with Norway, Switzer-
land, or any other part of the snow-clad regions whicli I
have ever visited.

Walls or cliffs of ice, liiO feet, sheer down to the water

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

245

and of every exquisite shade of deep and faint green and blue
face one as the bay is entered. The Muir glacier (which
we ascended later) seemed quite close upon us for miles
before we came to anchor.

There is one wide expanse of bay, surrounded by grand
snow mountains, with glaciers running sheer down to the
sea, and extending over limitless fields of snow and ice
for forty miles and more ! The highest mountain peaks lay
to our left as the bay was entered.

Mount Carillon is 15,900 feet high, Fairweather 14,000,
and La Perouse also 14,000 feet high. The face of the Muir
glacier is like a frozen " Horse Shoe Fall," only that these
icy walls are more than twice the height of Niagara, and
with the brilliant sun shining full upon them the effect
was like fairyland.

I forgave Alaska all its bad weather, the biting winds
and driving rain we had encountered so many days, in
consideration of this one gloriously beautiful day at the very
culminating point of the whole expedition.

We had passed numbers of small icebergs, and several
fairly large ones, but none quite to compare with those we
had seen oi route for Quebec.

A great quantity of drift-ice lay about, requiring careful
navigation as we wound our way through it to our anchorage
for the day. The boats took us on shore, and there we
wandered up a very steep gully, and then for nearly two
miles over a very rough " moraine," to get on to the glacier
proper, and thence climbed upwards to a point where a
glorious view mot our eyes.

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KALEIDOSCOPE.

Here a flagstaff is planted, and a book kept in a wooden
box, so tliat adventurous travellers may inscribe their
names. Here, also, the glacier expedition is supposed to
end, but the spirit of the place was too much for me.
After actually turning towards home, and in spite of a
very heavy influenza cold, it seemed as if one could not
leave it. With little difficulty I persuaded my friend to
return, and she and I struck out a path for ourselves
over the ice in a diflerent direction, and just under the
snow mountains, which form a crescent around this immense
glacier, which is a mile and a half wide, and forty miles
in length, and said to be the largest in the world.

We counted eight distinct glaciers as we stood upon this
one, and backing them, the crescent of snow clad mountains,
an exquisite palest blue sky beyond, and a haze on the
mountains which melted into the blue of the sky until we
could scarcely see where snow ended and the sky line began.

We were entranced by the weird beauty of the scene and
the sort of warm desolation about it, for the colouring was
far from cold, and yet one had such a " noi'th poley " feeling
of being at the very ends of the eorth.

As we stood, a sound like distant artillery came over the
glacier every now and again as huge pieces of the ice fell
with loud splashes into the sea.

It is said that the water here is salt below and fresh above,
owing no doubt to the number of icebergs which are con-
tinually melting into the latter.

We spoilt more th'ui three hours on the glacier, returning

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

247

by a new route, and nearly losing our way, which made me
very nervous, for the captain had said he would remain only
four hours, and one o'clock, the limit, had already arrived.
I thought to myself, " Suppose the half-hour whistle sounded
Tww, when we do not iu the least know how to get back, what
should we do ? "

We could not "coo-ee," for the voices would not carry,
and amongst so many passengers we should not be missed
until dinner time, if even then, for the hasty "double
scramble " was very unlike the usual orderly ship's dinner,
where each one has his or her appointed place.

In any case, the ship would be four hours on her way by
that time, and even nine or ten hours of cold and hunger was
no pleasing prospect,

I did not dare to mention these fears to my friend, for
by this time we were both getting pretty well exhausted
by the long and apparently endless scramble over boulders
of rock and ice and snow which tripped us up from time

to time.

In fact we both became so suspiciously cheerful and so very
sure that the next hundred yards or ico must bring us witlun
sight of the ship that I felt convinced thai, the same horrible
idea was passing through my companion's mind and that we
were both remembering the adventure of the chief engineer
and the priest.

How horribly frightened they had looked when they came
on board that night ! And yet their fate would have been a
Paradise compared with ours, for I thirdc we must hnve

11!

ill

ixu-isliud with cold and hunger, even in a fow liours, on this
ice-bound spot.

It was real terror for a time, and I wished with all my
heart that we had returned quietly with most of the pas-
sengers ; but my friend and I said never a word to each other
of any possible disaster until at long, long last, the funnels
of the G. W, Elder came in sight. I shall never forget
the relief of that moment ! Of course in this case our own
rashness was to blame entirely ; but I do think, on such an
out-of-the- world expedition, where being left behind probably
means starvation and death, it would be well to adopt the
extra jn'ecaution of a " roll ctill " before each fresh start.

It is too much to expect that the captain, however clever
and observing, can always be absolutely sure that each one
of a hundred and twenty or hundred and thirty passengers,
has returned to the ship.

However, all is well that ends well ! If we were fool-
hardy, " no%s en dions quiltcs i^cL't" let imir" and Glacier Bay
Avill remain till the last day of my life as one of the
grandest and most unrivalled sights in memory's picture
gallery.

Steaming away from this magnificent spot, we passed
slowly out of range of the grand snow mountains, into a
very different but equally beautiful scene, entering Idaho
Inlet.

This is an exquisite inlet of the sea, surrounded by
verdure clad mountains. The lovely sunset reflections, and
a few white jjulls skimminj:: over the glass-like waters

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

240

this

fonneil a very charming and restful picture after the
crander but scarcely more beautiful scenes of the morning.
Next morning we were up in good time to watch the
approach to Sitka, the capital of Alaska.

Sitka is by far the most beautifully situated of all the
Alaska towns, as it is also the cleanest and most civilized
looking.

The town is surrounded by lovely mountains, a few of
which have snow on their highest peaks.

A ffrand extinct volcanic mountain, named by Captain
Cook, Mount Edgcombe, reminded me by its sweeping lines
of Fuji-yama in Japan, only on a very small scale.

Sitka is a much smaller township than I had pictured
for the capital of Alaska— just a line of white houses along
the shore form the Indian portion of it. A piece of reserved
OTOund with small cannon, used as a drill ground, divides
this from the European portion, which is chiefly occupied by
American official residences and an old tumble-down
wooden " castle."

The latter is a remnant of the Russian occupation, but
it looks more like an ordinary wooden house than our idea
of a " castle," the walls and the steps up to it falling alike
into swift decay.

We climbed up the mouldcrmg wooden steps to a little
tower which commands a glorious view over Sitka and the
lovely bay, dotted all over with green islands.

Uninteresting as it looks, the Sitka castle has two most
interesting associations. In the first place. Lady Franklin

mm.

wmm

■■i

250

KALEIDOSCOPE,

/ Ml

/!'

!,'!

occupied two rooms here for some montlis when she
accompanied the exploring expedition in search of her
husband. Secondly, there is a ghost-story connected with

the building.

' Many years ago, during the time of the Russian
occupation, a governor of the castle (Baranoff I think was
the name) lived here with his niece, a very beautiful girl,
who was beloved by, and herself in love with, a young
Russian officer. Not being "noble," the latter was
considered beneath her in rank, and the governor, to stop
any risk of an elopement, managed to have the young man
sent off on a wild expedition to quell a disturbance amongst
the Indians-such warlike raids being common enough in
those days, when the Indian tribes were still very powerful.
Meanwhile, a Russian noble came to stay with the governor,
in every way a suitable match for the girl, and her uncle
insisted upon her marrying him. The poor girl, though
faithful at heart to her lover, was too weak and too much
frightened to resist the pressure brought to bear upon her.
The marriage was hastened on, and took place amidst great
rejoicings, and a grand banquet was given in a long room
which commands a lovely view of Sitka Bay, and whi<h we
had specially remaiked whilst wandering over the castle.

Meanwhile the first lover " had got wind of the affair,"
and managed to throw up his command and return secretly

to Sitka.

He concealed himself in the precincts of the castle, and at
a criticnl moment during the bnn<iuot, when the bride's health

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

251

was about to be drunk, he rushed in and stabbed her to the
heart, throwing himself out of the window immediately
afterwards, to be picked up a senseless corpse !

It is said that his spirit haunts the castle, and that once a
year, in the month of December, a light is seen there, and the
figure becomes visible to those who are brave enough to face
" the ghost."

We had expected to find many curiosities in the Indian
village at Sitka, but were woefully disappointed.

There were no native blankets to be had. and the bracelets
and baskets were dearer, and not so good as those we had
despised at Juuean, being told to keep our money till we
reached Sitka and found a greater choice there.

After dinner my friend and I strolled along the shore of
the upper town towards the Presbyterian Mission houses.

There are two of these, one for boys and one for girls, under
the charge of Mr. Austin, a pleasant, genial man. They are
almost exclusively devoted to Indian children, who board and
live in the respective houses, having nice wooden bedsteads
with comfortable mattresses and blankets.

There are one hundred and seventy children in all.
A nice bright Httle American teacher took us all over the
girls' department, and professed to be much shocked at my
being so shocked when I read part of the Westminster
Catechism written up on the blackboard for the benefit of

these Httle Indians.

"God of His mere goodwill and pleasure, having from all
eternity predestined the elect to everlasting life," &c., kc.

252

KALEinOSf'OPK.

;l!

I said to lior, " Tlien what carttily good ia it for the ' un-
elected children' to make any effort at all? Why noc
' have a good time ' here, any way, since nothing they can do
will alter their fate one way or the other ? "

" Oh, you must not say that," was the feebly orthodox reply
of my companion.

" But I do say it. Is it not the logical outcome of your
belief ? What else does it mean ? "

" Oh, I don't know ! I cannot explain it myself, but Ihavc
heard it explained in some way," she answered, in real distress
at my heresy.

And so this immoral doctrine is daily forced down the poor
little Indian throats by a teacher who has herself "forgotten
how it loas exj^Iaincd to her ! " Mercifully, I do not suppose
the children understand much of that or any other dogma or
creed, and probably assimilate only the beautiful, wholesome
idea of a Father, pitying and loving His children.

The little teacher herself looked far too bright and
innocent to believe anything so horrible. As she was
absolutely unable to give any sort of ground for holding such
a belief except the fact that " she was a Prcshytcrian" let us
hope it may have fallen equally harmlessly upon the soil of
her kindly little heart !

When I spoke rather strongly, saying, " No, I donH believe
it. I don't pay the God I worship so poor a compUment as to
believe such things of Him," she answered simply, " Ah !
then you must be a Methodist."

This led to my clearing up what has puzzled me about

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

253

" Methodists " in America, ever since I heard a Ubeval-niimled
Baptist minister in Boston speak of possible re lomption for
the whole world.

I thought he must be a specially broad-minded man, but
this young American lady told me that all American Metho-
dists differ from Presbyterians on this one point, and uphold
free will as opposed to election.

So much the better for the Methodists! It is at least a
step towards the light.

A painful performance followed this theological discussion.
We all went into the classroom whilst this poor little
woman struggled to beat out a little mental arithmetic and
spelhng from the very dull looking Indian boys and girls
under her charge.

The apparent stupidity was owing partly no doubt to
nervousness, but I cannot think that they would have
compared under any circumstances with American and
English children. We must however remember that they
have to learn everything through the medium of a foreign

tongue.

It must require immense patience to deal with them.
Noting the unflagging brightness, and the unwearied, sweet
cheerfulness of the teacher even with the most stupid and
sulky looking pupils in her charge, I wondered still more
that she should give her Creator credit for so little patience
and long-suffering with the creatures of His own creation.

The mournful spelling business at length came to an end,
and then the children sang Hail, Columbia! to the tune

254

KALEIDOSCOPE.

of the Rid, White and Blue — another cool " crib," which
reminds me that one evening I went on deck and found
our fellow passengers dancing what they pf)inted out to me
with great pride as the "rad, original, old Virginvin red" our
Sir Roger de Coverley I

I annihilated them with this piece of information oil
the spot, saying it had been danced in England years
before America was "born or thought of!" I fear this is
not true ! Any way we certainly did not import Sir Roger
de Coverley into England from Virginia !

The evening I am describing ended by the singing of
some of Dr. Doane's hymns, which he accompanied himself
upon the harmonium, and then a little Indian girl prayed
very simply and prettily in her broken English.

" Dear Father ! Bless all these gcntkmans and ladies that
have come so far to see us, and take them safe back. Dear
Father, bless Miss Kelsey [their matron] if she leaves in
the ship to-morrow, and bring her safe back. Dear Father,
bless all of us boys and girls here and lay Thy hand upon
us, and give us thy Holy Spirit," &c.

Each sentence began "Dear Father."

It seemed somehow to take away the nauseous flavour of
the Westminster Catechism extracts which still remained
on the blackboard, and to leave us only the memory of
this little Indian child, standing there with bent head and
clasped hands, so free from all self-consciousness, talking
in her pretty, childlike, trusting way, to " Our Father which
art in heaven."

A TIUl' TO ALASKA

Ji'.S

Many of the young Indians wurc away at the time of our
visit to the mission, having gone up country on rafts, to bring
back sufficient firewood for the long, dreary and rainy

winter.

There is also a hospital in connection with this mission, a
bright looking, low white wooden building just beyond the

schools.

:Most of the ship's crew had gone off on this evening to
attend an impromptu dance given in one of the official
residences, where Judge and Mrs. Keatley (the new American
judge and his wife), whom we had brought up with us, were

going to live.

Were my lot cast in Alaska I should certainly choose
Sitka as headquarters in preference to Junean or Wrangle.
Sitka is much cleaner, more civilized, and far more beautiful,
but— oh ! it would be a terribly lonely and monotonous life 1

Beauty of scenery alone cannot make up for the loss of
nearly everything else that makes "life worth living." I
think Wilkie Collins in his Womn7i in White refers to this
fact— that no scenery however beautiful can alone satisfy the
human heart— as a proof of our immortality. Hence our
craving for something more lasting than the decaying nature
around us. Finite beings ought to be content with finite
surroundings when the latter are altogether beautiful. This
is the gist of the argument ; a very fair one I think.

During our two days' stay in Sitka a picnic to a beautiful
bay was got up by the captain, in the interests of a poor girl
who had sprained her foot a few days before in stepping

25(j

KALEIDOSCOPE.

over the gangway of the steamer, and had th.ud been
deprived of tlie glorious trip to the glaciers.

It would have been a sad loss to any of us, but tlie
misfortune was specially hard upon this young cieature, who
had been looking forward to it so enthusiastically, and had,
moreover, provided herself with a new pair of " rubbers " for
the occasion.

Many of the passengers, myself amongst the number, had
by this time contracted very severe colds.

This seems to be a nec(;ssary evil, in spite of wraps and
warm clothing.

The saloon becomes iutulerably heated by steam and
humanity combined, and going froni such an atmosphere into
glorious sunshine and biting winds, is pretty sure to bring on
some form of cold and influenza.

My own heavy influenza, which led later to a serious
illness, was caught at any rate in the cause of cleanliness, by
turning out of a warm berth in a deck-cabin every morning,
to make my way across the wet decks nnd down through the
saloon to the one bath-room at the far end.

When we first went on board, this one bath-room was a
terrible shock to our English ideas, especially as it was tilled
up with all the rubbish that could find no place olscwlierc.

The steward looked anmsed at our despair when we
calculated probable chances of getting a " morning tub," with
a hundred and twenty-five competitors.

" Nobody ever does use the bath-room much on these
trips ; but if you ladies have a fancy for it, I will clear tiicije

IHH

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

257

things out and you can be called at any time you like in the
mornings," This sounded too good to bo true, but his
prophecy was justified by eve'.^'', and it ab.solutcly turned out
that my friend and I, nnd an old ship's captain on board, were
the only three out of the hundred and twenty Avho ever
" troubled the waters," so far as the bathroom was concerned.

Florence Nightingale has truly said, that any one can
be clean who has the will and a tumbler of water, but one
cannot help sometimes wondering if the tumbler of water
is really utilized by those who refuse greater facilities ?
My friend, fortunately for her, had a saloon cabin, and so
was able to exercise the virtue which ranks next to godliness
with no disastrous effects.

A charming walk from Sitka takes one past the
Mission Houses to the "Indian River," which lluws down
through a beautiful gorge into the sea at this [Kunt.
±0 reoch the spot, wo walked through exquisite fern-
grown, leafy woods, full of a shrub which has boW,
coarse green leaves and very tw-ight red berries in bunche».
Another tree, with very dark h/ue berries, formed a striking
contrast, whilst mosses and maideBhair fern abounded on

every side.

The "bush" became soon too niucli entangled awi tin-
gi'ound too wet for further exploration, so we re-croJ*ed the
wooden bridge that spans the river and strolled slowly
back towards the Greek Chiu'ch. This, with its white
and green spire and two gohl Greek crosses, forrn-i a
conspicuous object in the first viuw of Sitka.

258

KALEIDOSCOPE.

Tticre were some curious old pictures in this church,
painted partly in oils, witli the clothing, &c., added in
carved silver, through which the painted portions peep;
reminding one of a child's toy picture-book in which the
same face serves for a succession of gay costumes. One
" Madonna and Child " here has real merit, only the
Madonna as usual looks as if she had been taken out of a
" Book of Beauty " with her great big eyes and rosebud
mouth.

I suppose it requires the genius of a Raphael to dare
to paint the Virgin Mother as a peasant — but a peasant
inspired !

The Greek Bishop from San Fraticisco comes to visit the
twelve Greek churches m+' Alaska o ce a year.

This special congregation consists of 200 menibei"s
(Russian), but there are also 1,000 Indians, and they, like
the Presbyterians, have their Mission Schools, but on a far
larger scale.

The usual gorgeous sunset gOMnCed us as we steamed away
from Sitka, passing through the extremely narrow and
dangerous path, called appropi'iately " Peril Pass." A pilot
is necessary here, for the uavigatioti is most intricate
amongst all the islands and shaiilows of this inland sea.
From Sitka, the steamer retraces her steps, north-west, to
Juneau and thence to Fort Wrangle, bwit from here a slight
divergence of route is made in order to deliver freight at one
or two places not visited before.

Passing through Clarence Straits, on th(^ return voyage, a

A TRIP TO ALASKA.

sno

ii'e. a

terrible storm came on, aiul we spent some miserable hours,
having a grand opportunity of testing the rolling capacity of
the a. W. Ehh'T.

We had heard dark rumours before leaving Victoria that
she had been re-chris'.encd the G. W. lluUrr, but it was only
after this and some similar experience that I could fully
appreciate the fact that this boat hatl to be taken off' the
direct San Francisco and Victoria service because no one
would make the crossing in her.

When other ships on the service were carrying 200 and
300 passengers, the poor , W. M(h'r was forced to sail with
twelve or fourteen !

The rolling must certainly be a "true bill" if (Captain
Hunter had the ship then, for no one could wish to sail
under a kinder or more obliging captain.

The rain and cold had set in again after two tine days at
Sitka, and one whole day between Loring and Burrowes Bay
was spent of necessity in the over-heatal saloon, which a
missionary and his poor over-taxed wife, three small but very
noisy children, a cradle, and a perambulator, jiad turned by
this time into a nursery |;j-o tern.

This, moreover, was part of fie poor woman's holiday ! I
think she must have been as much relieved as we were when
the whole party was landed at one of the mission stations at
the end of the brief outing.

Another stoppage was made at Fort Tongas, where we
went on shore to see more totem poles, a really tine collection
of carved bears, whales. .-iikI wolves. Two large wooden

s 2

260

KALEIDOSCOPE.

^1^

hi',

whales are carved hero in a horizontal position, each one
holding a man in its jaws.

I thought I had come upon a novel illustration of Jonah,

. but ain told that the legend liure is that a bear threw these
men into the sea, and the kind wliales dehvered them atid
brought them safe to la a<l.

Talking of Jonah and the whale, reminds me of such a
very neat story on that point, which I lieard lately in Queens-
land, that I trust I may he forgivun for repeating it, hoping
it may not prove a "Joe Miller" to many of my readers.
The story is not only good in itself, but has the further
advantage of " catching" most people, wlio almost invariably
laiigh at the wrong place and before the climax is reached.
So niucli so ivideed that I think a truly Christian person
should mention this fact as a warning before telling the

story.

It seems that on a certain occasion, a very phy young curate
had elected to preach on the subject of Jonah being swallowed
by a whale. It was a country congregation. The squire's
pew was full of visitors, and amongst these was a foreign lady
whose knowledge of English was rather limited,

"Jonah was three days in the whale's " began the

unfortunate young man—" in tlio whale's ." At length,

with a desperate plunge, " in the wMlc's sorAdi/ ! "

Coming out of chvu-ch the perplexed foreigner addressed
lierself to one of the gentlemen of the party.

" Mais quest ce que m ceut due done ? Quest ce que ccd
q„r la sncim do. iff halnneV' " Tin- m-uhi -f tlio whale?

iimiiini—liriiil

A TRIP TO AT, ASK A.

261

madam," tho gcutloiuau fi,nsv,'ore(l with groat presence
of mind, " it means — a sort of curporativn."

Tlie village of Tongas consists of a few Indian houses,
all closed up now as the inhabitants are oif tishing and
bringing down ftKtd for tlio winter seasttn. Some beds ot
potatoes, turnips, &e. alone gave evidence that the <lesertiou
of the village ^Yas only temporary.

A good many old chiefs are buried here, and several
wooden houses bore some such inscription as the following
over them —

" In memory of (some unpronounceable Indian name), died
1880— -aged 100 years." One inscription on a totem pole
runs thus: "He died at his own hand."

After leaving Tongas, a heavy fog came on and delayed
us for several hours.

The captain fired a gun continually, and by the length
of time before the echo came lio could alone judge of our
distance from the rocks on either side, and so we steamed
very slowly on.

And so the last day came, and passing once more through
Queen Charlotte's Sound, wo came alongsidf of Vancouver's
Island, Avhich lay now to our left.

After going to bed on the last night but one, a sudden
stop came, and putting my head out of f lio windovr I found
we hod met another steamer of the comi)any— the Andm,
just starting for the same expedition, two days out from
Victoria.

There was much firing and saluting. Tbey stmt ..IT u

202

KALKIUOSCOI'E.

U I

boat for us to take back their mail aii.l to send us news-
papers from the civilized regions of Victoria.

The Driard Hotel, at the latter place, seemed a paradise
of comfort when we reached it early on the morning of
September 1st, just seventeen days since we had left its
hospitable roof.

The Alaska expedition has much novelty to recommend
it, and ';he beauty and wonders of Glacier Bay can scarcely
be exa,'gerated. But so long as the world lasts, mental
impressions must and will depend to a great extent upon
physical conditions, and I think the Pacific Coast Steam
Shipping Company might materially improve these latter
by a little method and arrangement, to the greater comfort
of the passengers and to their own abiding interest and
advantage.

'""~*''*"^

lOWS-

adise
ig of
ft its

mend
ircely
leiital
upon
5te{ini
latter
>mfort
;t and

CHAPTER VIII.

OVER THE ROCKIES BY THE C.P.R.

The Canadian Pacific Line— Sunday scrnplcH— Ma^niiiieent scenery-
Good accommodation- A grand view— Snow sheds and nioiintain fires
—Glacier Puiut— Kickbi},' Horse river -The cow-catcher-Starving in
sight of plenty -Banlf— Situation and sulpliur .springs— A disastrous
jump— Port Arthur and Lake Superior— A heavy storm— Dinner
disasters— Sanlt St. Marie-The ascent of Mount Eliiia— Divngers,
dehiys and dimculties— Attempt hy Lieut. Schwatka and Seton
Kan- -We reach Toronto— The Exhihition— Lord Stanley's address—
A weary illness— The silver lining to the cloud— English climate—
A philosophical reflection.

Taking a night boat from Victoria to the town of Vancouver,
on the mainland of British Columbia, wo found ourselves
once more in that little township on the early morning of
Sunday, September 2nd.

Several of our fellow-passengers on the late Alaska trip
were with us, and I was much amused by the thorough
breakdown of their strictly Sabbatarian principles.

My friend and I, whose time was somewhat limited now,
h;^d boldly announced our intention of taking the mid-day
train from Vancouver by the C.P.R. line to the east.

These good people looked very much shocked, and made a
great point of the fact that tlmj would not travel ou Sunday

tm j ,m ' m f "

264

KAl.FIDOSCOrE.

but intended to remain over that day at Vancouver although
at great inconvenience to themselves.

Arrived in Vancouver, they found on inquiry that no train
for the east left on Monday. They must either travel on
Sunday or remain until Tuesday.

The strain of the extra four-and-twcnty hours proved too
much for their principles, and every one of them came on
in our train !

I do not know whether it was from my own stupidity or
from the covku)' dc rose accounts of previous travellers, but
my distinct impression had been that tlie greater portion of
the C.P.Il. Line was famous for its magniiiceut scenery.

This is a decided mistake, and I do not think anything is
gained by misconception on such a point, as the traveller is
only the more disappointed when he conies to prove matters
by his OAvn experience.

There is magnificent scenery on this line between
Vancouver and Banff ; that is to say, for the first thirty-six
hours from the Avestern terminus ; but we must remeuiber
that at least ten hours of this is passed in darkness or such
twilioht as leaves little chance of seeing the scenery ; whilst
from Banff onwards there is nothing but the most de-
pressing and melancholy prai'ie, as fiat as a billiard-table
and witii al)solutely no relief to the eye of the weary

traveller.

It will however bo always a favourite route, owing to the
wonderful beauty of the Rocky Region whilst it lasts, and to
Canada as a country it is impossible to exaggerate the

.^.ji^

OVKR TIIK HOC'KIKS 1!Y THE C.P.U.

2iir>

aJvanta;4os of possessing her own liuo of railway across this
vast Continent.

She is now for the first time ahsohitely imlopcndent of
American hncs of rail for her passenger or commercial tradic,
and, from a military point of view, would take a very ditl\'rent
position now should there be any chance (which God forbiil)
of other than friendly relations between the two countries.

The C.lMl. Company have made a very good start in many
ways.

Their carriacres are well built, wider and more comfortable
than any hitherto in use, and tli restaurants placed at various
points over the mountain route are exquisitely clean and
inviting. The food is good in quality and well cooked, the
linen and glass irreproachable. A deficiency of waiters is
the only drawback. It is impossible for one miserable man
to supply the wants of two large tables full of hungry travel-
lers where only twenty to twenty-five minutes are allowed for
dinner. It bade fair sometimes to be a ease of starving in
the sight of plenty, as the poor, overdriven man rushed wildly
away to fulfil half-a-dozen orders, pursued by the plaintive
reproaches of those still left unserved.

I noticed the same thing at all the stopping places, and
on board the steamers of the C.P.K (which take passengers
who preter that route to making the entire journey by land)
the attendance was so bad that I have seen people leave
the tables in despair after waiting for thirty or forty minutes
in the vain hope of getting anything to eat.

We took this route ourselves, and the head steward was

15!

ws::zywr-sTT=^wrism

200

KALEIDOSCOPE.

'i?i

most attontivc and obliging, but powcrloss to do better witb the
raw and insuflicient " waiting" material given into his hands.
If economy is at the bottom of tlie nuisance, it is a very false
principle " to ruin the ship for want of a ha'porth of pitch,"
but probably the great difficulty of finding and keeping good
waiters on this Continent is the real reason for the one blot
on an otherwise excellent railway service.

The beauty of the scenery begins as soon as the train
leaves Vancouver, but the real magnificence of the Kocky
Mountain scenery comes after North Bend, whicli lies close
to the beautiful Fraser River.

Next morning we had left this behind, and passing several
large lakes to our left, notably the Great Shuswap Lake, and
crossing our old friend the Columbia Ri.er, we reached a
grand spot high up amongst the mountains where a wooden
look-out platform has been erected. The train stopped to
allow all passengers to alight and feast their eyes upon this
magnificent view.

Hundreds of feet sheer below us the water boiled and
surged, dashing through a narrow gorge, whilst trees which
had been uprooted by its force lay across and formed natural
bridges at intervals. The Rockies, grand and bare, rose up
on all sides and made one feel very small and insignificant
as we stood on this small square of wood overhanging the
precipice, and with nothing else between us and eternity.

The fires all along this line are very numerous, and the
blackened fir trees have a grim and desolate look.

Some of those fires are caused by lightning, and others

OVER TIIF, IIOCKIKS 1!Y TllK C.VM.

2(17

are the result of ^intentional bush-clearinj;-, whilst in.-uiy
arise from the carelessness of the men employed ou the lino
who camp out in the forests.

As the train rises by a severe gnule, crossing onorn^ous
ravines over colossal wooden viaducts of which the swt'epint,'
curves fascinate and yet terrify one, innumerable snow-sheds
are passed on the mountain sides. These arc very strongly
built with iron clamps, but we passed the ddhris of more than
one that had been literally tm-7i out of the ground by the
weight of the snows and rain, the iron clamps having been
wrenched out like a row of so many pins !

The longest of these sheds (over a mile in length) is oidy
used in winter ; a summer track lying parallel with it.

Glacier Point, amidst the Selkirk mountains, was reached
at lunch time ou the second day of our journey. It is one
of the most remarkable places ou the route, and we had
thought of halting for the night, but as no train leaves
Vancouver on the Monday morning, this would have en-
tailed losing our boat at Port Arthur, as we had arranged
to make the trip of the lakes, which is a very pleasant
change from the monotony of the train, and can only be
undertaken with any pleasure during the two or three
summer montlis.

So Ave made a very hasty meal, and spent most of our
hour in watching the very dirty-looking but remarkable
crlacier, wdiich rises quite clear above the little mountain
inn, where very fair accommodation can be obtained by those
wishing to break the journey here.

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Sciences
Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80

(716) 872-4503

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KALEIDOSCOPK.

The view tliough magnificent is very much closed in,
and I fancy the glacier wouhl be a very diffi ;ult ascent,
for it rises so abruptly and would entail a very hard
climb.

A young man who came back from Sitka with us after
spemling three months in making a partial ascent of the
famous Mount Elias, endorsed my opinion on this point,
and as we looked upon his authority on such subjects as
undeniable, we regretted the less being unable to stay here.

The mountain scenery becomes grander and grander as
Glacier Point is left behind. The mountains themselves
only average from three thousand to five thousand feet in
height, but it is almost impossible to realize this, for they
rise so sheer up from the plains, and one passes so close to
them, that the tops seem almost to touch the skies. Un-
fortunately it was impossible to do more very often than
guess at where the tops were, the mountains being so thickly
enveloped in fog and smoke.

This natural atmospheric condition is much aggravated
by the smoke of the numerous bush fires, so I fear most
travellers must have a similar experience.

It was most tantalizing. Nevertheless we had a fine
view of the " Kiciving Horse " river, so called from the
series of tiny rapids through which it swirls and rushes
along.

Several young ladies of our party with their attendant
swains, spent most of the day upon the " cow-catcher "
and came back now and agaiii, deep in coal black, but

OVER THE ROCKIES BY THE C.r.R.

2C9

declaring tliey wore having " a lovely time." I could quite
believe it, and longed to join the party, but a special per-
mission from a railway official is necessary, and owing
doubtless to increasing illness, I had not sufficient energy
left to procure this.

A third engine was chartered to take our heavy train
up the incline, past the beautiful Kicking Horse Canon,
and by midnight we reached Banff, our resting-place for
two nights; tired and hungry, but with firm faith in the
boasted comforts of the new hotel there.

Alas for the vanity of human expectations! Not a
crust of bread could be obtained, although this train brings
in its freight of famished passengers every night.

"The steward goes to bed at 10 P.M." was the waiter's
imperturbable answer to all inquiries and reproaches.

At length, after much cajoling, I persuaded a feeble-
looking but good-natured underling to smuggle two pieces
of bread and butter, and a small pint bottle of Bass into
our r.voms. Surely a loaf of bread and a little butter and
beer might be left out in the interests of the nightly
travellers, even if the steward docs go to bed at ten o'clock.
Banff is situated at the eastern foot of the mountains,
and is surrounded by them, but is far less shut in than
Glacier Point, and hence has more variety of scenery than

the latter place.

There is a small township of a few houses and stores,
four churches (Roman Catholic, Presl , terian, American
anil English) and two doctors.

270

KALEIDOSCOPE.

As Banff possesses hot sulphur springs and has already
a Sanatorium, it is expected that it will shortly become a
well-known and much-frequented mountain resort.

The Bow river flows through the valley here, and is
very beautiful, having a " fall " on a small Niagara scale ;
that is to say, very low, but broad and imposing.

The colouring of blue water is lovely ; soft green gi-ey,
turning into vivid green where the little " Spray " river
flows into it.

The mountains look bleak and bare, having much un-
covered lime formation up their rocky sides. We drove
in the afternoon to one of the sulphur springs at the
Sanatorium, about a mile or less from our hotel.

Here we found a large natural cave with a tiny circular
hole at the top, through which the blue sky appeared.
The depth of this circular sulphur spring is from four feet
to six feet, and it was discovered accidentally by two young
men, who saw the fumes arising out of the ground, and
then came upon this lake down below.

The Sanatorium is a comfortable house, and many travellers
prefer it to the more pretentious C.P.R. Hotel.

Three miles further up the mountain side, at a height of
800 feet, we came upon the Hot Springs settlement.

Here one large tank is built over the sulphur springs, and
varioiis small inns and wooden shanties have sprung up with
bathing accommodation, and from hence iron pipes carry the
water down to the Sanatorium.

I had a nasty accident liore with our " buggy." The driver

OVER THE ROCKIES BY THE C.P.R.

271

told me to jump out when we arrived, but did not tell me of
the brake rising up in the middle of the buggy and which
was concealed by the folds of my gown. So I jumped and
remained suspended in mid air, my arm being much bruised
and severely strained by the poor man's valiant efforts to
disengage the gown and lift me out. To add to our discom-
fort, a terrible hailstorm came on and we had to rattle
home as best we could.

The views of the valley of the " Bow " and of the sur-
rounding mountains would have been magnificent save for a
heavy fog which, I imagine, is prevalent here.

Our driver declared that the thermometer went down to
60° below zero sometimes in the winter.

It is difficult to credit this, but of course a dnj cold at that
temperature might be easier to bear than our freezing point
in the damp chill air of England.

A dull rainy day and my painful arm prevented our making
a river expedition next day in a launch called the Mmbntain
Belle, imd we were quite reconciled to leaving Banff' that
evening in time to catch the night train on to Port Arthur.
The dreary prairie country needs no comment. We had
served an apprenticeship to this sort of thing in the " Far
West" of America and resigned ourselves to books and
meditation for the whole of tlie next day.

Having left Banff on Thursday night, we reached Port
Arthur on the shores of Lake Superior on Saturday morning,
and there took the steamer (Athahasca) for Owen's Sound,
our landing-place on Lake Huron.

272

KALEIDOSCOPE.

These steamers of the C.P.R. Company are fine, clean, and
well fitted, with the one drawback already mentioned of very
defective attendance.

A heavy storm came on soon after we embarked and drove
us early to bod that night after a most ludicrous dnmer scene,
where plates, glasses and dishes flew about in hopeless con-
fusion, to be shattered to pieces, owing to the absence of
" fiddles " on the table.

The storms on these immense lakes arc quite as severe and
even more disagreeable than those on the ocean and should
be guarded against as carefully.

Ne.xtday, at noon, we reached Sault St. Marie, the beautiful
narrow straits and rapids dividing Lake Superior and Lake
Huron, and quite the most picturesque spot on this lake trip.

In the afternoon also we passed some pretty lake S'^^nery,
and I divided my attention between admiring this and
listening to a most interesting account of his travels given to
me by a Mr. WilliaL.s, the young American I have already
mentioned as having accompanied us back from Sitka.

He was one of a p:irty of four men (two of them English)
who had just made the oidy ascent yet achieved of the famous
Mount Elias in Alaska. This mountain is 20,000 feet high,
and two years ago Lieutenant Schwatka and Mr. Seton Karr
made an attempt to ascend it.

It seems however that they only succeeded in cliuibing up
4,000 or 5,000 feet of a qjiir of the mountain, three or four
miles away from the true ascent.

Seton KaiT does not positively assert in his book that he

OVER THE ROCKIES IJY THE C.P.R.

273

and Schwatka made the real ascent, but the inference is
strong and rather calculated to mislead those ignorant of the
facts and of the locality.

Mr. Williams and his three friends had to travel forty
miles with "baggage Indians" and tents beyond the last
Indian village from Sitka, where all civilization ceased.

They wasted eighteen days in making false attempts to
scale the mountain, no trifling disaster where every pound of
food had to be carried with them.

They were away twenty-eight days in all from Sitka and
managed to ascend the cone of the mountain to a height of
12,000 feet, leaving a cairn to mark the spot reached, a pre-
caution which Schwatka and Seton Karr seem to have
neglected when climbirg their spur.

Any future explorers will be able to save much time,
profiting by this experience, and may hope to reach a greater
height in consequence; for my friend and his compai»ions
were driven back chiefly through failure of provisions for a
trip of such length of time.

A photographing apparatus had been taken, but something
went wrong or the plates wore smashed, and so Mr. Williams
was forced to rely upon his pencil, and showed me some
charming sketches of the mountain, giving the exact spot
where the ascent was made, straight up towards the cone.^

On Monday wo reached Toronto at noon, having disem-

1 A very well written and channiiigly illustrated artii'Ie by Mr.
Williams, doscriliiiiK the whole exi>editioi), has appearfd in Sa-ihun'.s
M(iij(v:inc for April, 18S9.

274

KALEIDOSCOPE.

barked at Owen's Sound at 8 A.M. and coming on by
the tidal train.

Toronto was enfdtc that day, as the Exhibition was to be
opened at 2 P.M by Lord Stanley, the newly arrived Governor,
who was spending a few days in this town en route for
Ottawa, the Canadian seat of Government.

Next day I went to see the Exhibition with friends in the
city, and heard Lord Stanley read his congratulatory address
to the good citizens of Toronto.

All Exhibitions are very much alike, and so are most
addresses.

It is always "the proudest hour" in the life of the
Governor and of the people he has come out to govern.
(Ja va sans dire.

Certainly my arrival in Toronto was not the proudest hour
or, at any rate, not the most fortiinate hour in my life.

The terrible influenza cauglt in Alaska developed by
degrees into a serious and panful illness, and my last
association with Toronto is a nightmare of weary weeks in
bed and much pain and many doctors ; but the heavy cloud
had the bright silver lining of tender sympathy and loving
care.

Of course the good people in England said " that comes
of foreign travel ! We told you so ! "

But illness is not confined to any climate nor to any
country.

As a rule, I am never in better health than when away
from my native shores. The l^nglish climate, taken all the

OVER THE ROCKIES BY THE C.P.R.

275

year round, is probably tlie most liveable climate in the
world, but it is also one of the most depressing.

There is no more chance of breaking your leg in England
than elsewhere, but there is far more chance of succumbing
to atmospheric influences with their attendant evils, and I
have always felt convinced that our gloomy, self-analysing
and too often morbid religious convictions are a pure
question of climate.

In any case, I have a strong theory that one gets nothing
in this world without paying for it — in some way and at
some time.

Thus I am fully resigned to have paid by weeks of ill
health for my wider experiences, and for the many interesting
friendships made and scenes beheld, since I steamed away
from Plymouth in the good ship Ionic on my voyage
round the world.

THE END.

RICUARD CIAY AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BUNGAY.