^h ^> ^% ^7^:^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) v. / O (./ *" ,.% ij-.. 1.0 I.I !i: i^ II 2.0 1.4 18 1.25 1.6 v] (^ /a '^A > % ''^ w k ^ o °w /A ^5?,^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut canadien de microreprod>.(/wn — We carry our Bar/gar/e — Horses knee-deep in Mud — Workmen astonished to sec Travellers — No Supper — The Indians lagging behind — Workmen Intoxicated — Mosquitoes, and no Sleep. Awoke this morning perfectly sti ft', and for sometime could not move, but after a desperate effort got up and made break- fast; then Malcolm and I went to look at the Lake, which, though small, was very beautiful. We were both struck at the amount of labor and money it must have cost to make such a good road througli such a country. Fortunately tho day was line, so we soon became warm, and travelled on very well for about 12 miles, meeting several parties of men work- ing on tho road. At one place we were delayed on account of there being no bridge over a deep ravine but the men on tho road soon made a temi)orary way for us. Two miles further on, our troubles commenced; here a number of men were making the road, clearing away large stones and stumps. We asked them if the road was like that the whole way. They did not seem to know anything about it, but said that carts constantly passed on to the shanty at the Iliver Jacqucs-Cartier. So we went on, over stumps, large stones and swjnnps, till at last the cart broke down, and, after unloading it, we had to decide what to do. Finally we sent Honore back to the men working on the road, to see if he could get two more Indians to carry our baggage. We then had dinner, fed the horses, and made up our luggage into packs to be carried by the men and liorses. My horse carried the two buffalo robes, horse-rugs and blankets, and I had to keep on as well as I could, though i;he path was over a swamp, and the only apolog}^ for a road was trees laid across the swamp. In many places the horses sank up to their knees, and the poor animals seemed almost afraid to put their feet to the ground. We could only go one at a time ; and wo very foolishly had left all the men behind, to bring on the rest of our baggage : therefore when Malcolm's horse lost its load several times, wo had no one to help us to put it on again. I thought we should novei- reach the river and the shanty. At last we came to some men working on the road, who told us the shanty was close at hand, and in a very short ■PlillMinNmRII*!!* 9 8 time wo roacliod it. Thoro wore plenty of men sibout, but only two or thrtx; sconunl workin<,', at u bridge, Just com moncod, to croHs the river. They Hoenuid nincli astclninhod to Hco U8, und all l;jin«^ French wc bad Honie difficulty in making tlieni underHtand that wo intended stayinij^ there all night, and that the rent of our pai-ly would be with us presently. .Johnson and Ryan soon came up, with their two horses and the tents and food for the horses, but wc found all our provisions had been left for the [ndians to l}ring on, so there was no prospect of any sui)])er till they should arrive. The horses were well fed and comfortably housed for the night. Malcolm and I then took our rods and Hs' od in a lake about a mile from the shanty, called Jm IVtit Lac Jacques-Carticr; here we caught some very tine Hsh, and did not leave the lake till quite dark. When we returned to the shanty we found that a man had just arrived from (Quebec, bringing a cart- load of provisions for the men in the shanty. He had passed our Indians, but they wi^re so heavily laden that they would not be with us till* late. We then asked about the road to Lake St. John, and the men told us that for eighteen miles the road was merely a "blazed" track, but if we could manage to get our horses over it we should then find a good road, llavinif travelled so far, wo determined to continue our journey on the following day, as the men told us wo could take our baggage by boat up the .lacques-Cartier River and across Lo Grand Lac .Tacquos-Cartier, at the end of which lake the good road again commenced. In this way the horses would have ^v ' f ing to carry, as we (Malcolm and I) could also go by boat.' About 10.30 p.m. the Indians Charles and Felix, whose services Ilonore had succeeded in obtaining, came up, and we all had supper. We did not get much sleep, as all night the men in the shanty vvere shouting and singing ; we were afterwards told that a man had brought up whiskey from Quebec, which fully accounted for the noise we hoard. The mosquitoes were again most trouble- some, they seemed to penetrate everywhere, our tent was filled with them, and we were nearly driven mad by their stings. wmmimmmmmmimmmmmmmimmmm^ifmmirm 9 Fonrrni da v. Friday, August 25(11. Adivc Rouil'mukbui—Oncmin power— Half of our Party yo by JKrt/fr — First J 'or f aye— A viilc t /irony h the Bmh—VhilUuy Sriow-nloim on the Lake— Hard Road Ashore— StmnpH and Hoys— Fishiuy— Mink traps and Mosquitoes— One Sermul l)isat)led. Up sit (Ijiy-ltroak, and n^•aill (lucstiotiod tlio men uh to the road, and our chance of ever reachin«>- Lalci^ St. .lolm. Tlio "BoHs" was anythino; but .sober, Htill he rej)eate(l wliat he had told UM yesterday about the road being bad for 18 miles, but that when we reached the end of Lac Jjic(iU(!s-( "artier, wo sliould got on well. The "Boss" said he and another man would take us up the river and across the lake. We tirst saw Johnson, Uyiin, the three horses and the Indians safely over the river, which was shallow; Kyan's horse we left at the shanty, as it was of no further use to us. We did not start until nine, two hours after the horses, but I noticed that only onoman made any attempt to work at tho road. It might have been that we had astonished ther. I too much by our sudden arrival. I remarked to Malcolm that the 'Boss" did not pay much attention to making the men work, and that the bridge would take some time to Hnish if oidy one man worked at a time. After some trouble we got all our baggage into tlie boat; the water in the river was very black, anil seemed deep. We saw quantities of large lish, and some wild duck. For about two miles wo wont on very well, then the river became shallow. Finally Malcolm and I had to get out of the boat, and the two men dragged it along as well as they could, a mile of rapids rendering their task still more difficult, and I thought we should never reach the lake. Our walk through the bush was anything but enjoyable. In some places the trees grew so closely together that we had to fight our way through. I was constantly falling into holes, or getting fast in swamps; the flies bit without mercy, and the sun was broiling. I wanted to walk in the river, but the cuv*'ont was too strong and the water too deep. At last we came to a bend in tho river, where we sat down and waited for tho boat, lighting a fire to keep off the flies. The men had worked very hard to get the boat on at all, so we had to let them rest a little before we re-embarked and continued our journey, there being now water enough to proceed in the boat. We 10 had a lonf? and tedious row across the lake ; fortunately I had a book. When crossing the lake we encountered a heavy downfall of snow and hail, and having no coats available, we felt very cold, and the boat was so small that we scarcely dared to move for fear of upsetting it. The lake is bounded on one side by high mountains, and on all sides shut in by trees. About half way wc put in shore to see if the horses were in front, and were glad to see they were, so far, safe, as the path was very narrow, and had stumps all over it. We then continued our course, and about six p.m. came to the end of the hike, whero we saw our men and horses, and also three men who had been sent from the shanty after Johnson to help to make n roatl, if needful ; however, they did not overtake the horses. Johnson and llyan said they liad had a dreadful journey with the horses, and laughed at the idea of such a track being called a road ; they had to make three bridges, and to swim the horses over a river, (which Malcolm had the curiosity to walk about a mile back to sec.) Our bay mare, Jeannie, in jumping out of a bog, stepped on Johnson's foot, and he could not wear his boot. It was now almost impossible to get the horses along, in fact, Johnson gave such a disheartening account of the road (?) that had we not seen a cart at the lake, and the "Boss" saying, "certainly, the road was good further on," wo should have retraced our steps, though Johnson said ho would not, and could not, take the horses back, as he had only brought them so far by a miracle. Fortunately I had some arnica, with which Johnson bathed his foot, and obtained much relief The men loft us after supper to return to the shanty, and Malcolm and I went fishing for next morning's breakfast. We caught several large trout. The Indian Charles set a mink trap, but caught nothing. About 9 p.m. wo pitched our tent, and the mosquitoes not being quite so annoying, we slept soundly. 11 FIFTH DAY. Saturday, August 2(Jth. Horseback leaps through Fallen Trees — lload noio Impassable — Again driven to the Canoe Route — Dangerous fordimj — Horses Stuck fast — Exploring amid Rocks and Stumps — Fall into the River — Indiam . , delay our baggage— Lots of Fish — Guides in Trouble — Deep and broad river, but cranky canoe — Lose our servants and horses — Anxious night. As usual, up early. Johnson was so lame that he could hardly walk. Ilowevor, after a delay in getting breakfast and in collecting and packing our baggage, (which the Indians found they could not carry in one load,) we started, Malcolm and I riding, Johnson riding and walking by turns. The road was certainly much better for about live miles; I say "about," as we generally trusted to the Indians for the dis- tance we travelled, and Ilonoro's mile was usually a very long one. We w^ere now and then sto})ped by a tree across the path, which our horses jumped. We had to look very well to our heads, as sometimes the trees had fallen so close together that unless we almost lay flat in our saddles our heads would strike against another tree fallen a little higher from the ground. At the end of live miles we can)e to a deej) river, which I believe was the Kivierc Chicoutimi, where we found an old camp and a canoe. As this river ran parallel to the "path," — it no longer deserved the ncme of road, — we decided to put all the baggage into the canoe, whilst we and the Indians proceeded with it as far as the river and road continued alongside each other. Our first difficulty was to get the horses across a small river running into the large one and which, though not deep, was broad and very muddy. The approach to this was through a bog, and I Avas very much alarmed when Johnson led my horse across, as every moment the horse was up to his knees in the bog, and even when we reached the other side of the river there was no firm footing for the poor animal, who twice got stuck fast; and as Johnson had returned to bring the other horses over I was left alone to manage as best I could to extricate him ; finally, all were safely over, and Johnson lighted immense fires to keep away the files. While waiting for the Indians, I walked on to explore, but had so many falls over rocks and stumps, and had 80 much trouble in getting out of the swamp, that I returned, telling Malcolm I was quite sure wo had taken a wrong road. Re-crossing the river, I fell in, but Johnson '^ «— ^"ii— WWMilllllWIll I im -t'J-lJ*-i'VJIPi! 12 holped me out, and tli«5 vvuler was nol deep enough to cau!n of provisions, whilst wo romainod till thoy could return wi(h help and food. Katy Jjad fallen on Eyan's foot, so that ho was quite hors de combat ; llonore was also very tired, as he alwav.s carried tho largest ])ack and did tho most work. The nun again camo down in torrents, and I sat for lialf an hour in a regular shower hath, till a tire could he made. Fort nmitely "there was plenty (jf hiivdi bark, and Jlonore made a capital water- proof wigwam, whoi-o I was oidy too glad to remain, whilst Malcolm and llonore wont to tho river to tish for our supper. After a little time I wrote in my diary, but found 1 could only give a very faint and imperfect description of all we had suffered, and the abominable misrepresentations made in regard to the "lioad to Lake St. John," on whicii 1 was told HO much money had been spent. How a road can over bo made over such a barren and mountainous country is a puzzle ; and what there can bo to induce people ever to settle in a region, whore nothing seems to flourish but stunted spruce trees and rocks, is wondrous. IIf>wovor, "time and money work wonders," and both will bo i-eciuired to make a road like tho one already made to within five miles of La Iliviero Jacques Cartior. Malcolm and Ilonoro returned with only a very scanty supply offish, and, when wo came to cook thom, wo found wo had used up all our salt, consequently we did not relish our supper; Johnson liad taken on our two kettles, so we had only tho teapot in which to boil tho wat6r for our tea, and I had to wash my hands in a basin made of birch bark : by this time I was not too particular, and was glad of anything to cool my face and hands after the flies, who never ceased devouring us either by day or night. We did not stay up late, and at 8 p.m. Malcolm and tho men were fast asleep, I as usual listening to the numberless noises that ever disturbed mo in this infertile place, and watching the moon shining on Malcolm's face, making mo imagine he was dead, though when I woke him ,1 was soon satisfied that he was not only alive, but also not too grateful to mo for my arousing TKNTII DAY. TiiuuMDAY, August 3l8t. Nine days out — Nothing left to eat — liemme our weary march — All ojHernoon climbiny a mountain in the rain — Reach a rotten l^haiily — I*reJ'er reviaininy in the rain — Thrice lost in fern and bromides — No water nor bed — No supper nor sleep — Sleej) on bare ground^ without covering — Raining in toirents all night. This morning wo wero up at daybreak, looking most anxiously for tho return of the Indians. JIad breakfast, and then found that notliing now was left us to live upon but a little flour. Having waited for the Indians till noon, wo found wo must continue our journey, if wo tlid not want to starve ; so, leaving everything save a blanket each and my extra habit, we again commenced our weary mai-ch, uphill all the afternoon, till I thought we should never never seo the top, tho rain boating down upon us till our clothes were 80 saturated we could hardly climb uj) the interminable hill. Tho rest yesterday had done mo a great deal of good, and I was able to walk on. Towards evening wo came to a shanty in a very tumble-down condition, one of tho huge beams across tho roof having split, tho whole structure was likely, at any moment, to fall on our heads. 80, in spite of the rain, we remained outside. Johnson had evidently made a bridge over tho brook which ran across the road in front of tho ahanty, and from the remains of leaves we saw, the horses must have rested here all night. Malcolm found the skeleton of a horse, which made us thankful it was not one of ours ; indeed wo had often looked for fear wo should find one lying dead on the road. We made some tea, and then continued our uphill journey. Two or three times we lost our way, as the path was overgrown with fern and brambles, and tho blazed marks, being made only on very small silver birch trees, were most difficult to find. Here, however, the horses seemed to have had an easier time, as the ground was some- what firmer and tho stumps were cut down much closer to the ground. Honore and Ryan, on account of their loads, were some distance behind us, so that when wo at last arrived at what we hoped was the top of the hill (or rather mountain), we sat down to rest. When the men came up, both said they could go no further, but, as there was no water near, I persuaded them to go on till we came to some ; and as we now had no suppe?' to cook, we need not mind walking a little later than usual. In about half an hour we came to another 26 swamp, wlicro wo fouiul water, and made a firo for the night. Tlicro woro no branclios to lie on, and we had only one bhmkot each ; however, a good Hre woon wanned us, and lionore made some of the flour into calces, which he and Ryan managed to cat. Tho rain continued nearly all night, but llonord and Rvan Hcomed to sleep as soundly as if they were at homo. I don't think I could ever sleep out of doors, especially-on a moonlight niglit, when tho trees cast so many shadows round, that a person with very little power of imagir'vtion would bo astonished at the c|ueer fancies and shapes presented to Ids view. ELl<:Vh:XTJl DAY. FuiDAY, September Ist. Flovr runnhii/ out — A lovely lihj-covered lake — Lots ofjish, but no tackle with us — The files furious — Eayles ova'head — Partridges in view — Track getting. ifpossif)le, worse — Agony of travel indescribable — More partndge — Po%oder all gone — The end yet 30 miles off— Malcolm ■unable to walk further — Fyan afraid of the bears — We make a bridge and halt for the tenth night — Lots of nice branches. A very cold morning, but wo had, as usual, to start early on our way, especially as we found our flour would last only until to-morrow. Wo walked down hill for some distance, along the same sort of track, till we came suddenly on a lovely lake covered with yellow and white water lilies, and over which a large eaglo was hovering; as wo were almost without ammunition wo dared not waste a shot on this bird. There were also plenty offish in tho lake, but unfortunately all our fishing tackle and flies had been left behind. Kumberloss dragon flies were to bo seen, indeed tho largest living speci- mens I have ever beheld. We sat down for a little rest, first making a fire to moderate the fury of the flies, then continued our journey; in about ten minutes after we left the lake we saw a covey of partridges, which reminded us that this was the first day of the partridge shooting season. Mah^olra fortunately shot three, hut they were only "spruce," therefore not very good eating. After this the track became, if possible, worse, the exertion of mounting from stump to stone, or extricating one's-self from the swamp is indescribable. Malcolm and I walked on in advance, every fallen tree looking to me like the body of a horse lying across the road, till at last I 24 could stand it no longer, but made Malcolm walk first for u short distance. When wc had nearl}^ reached the top of the hill wo saw more partridges. Malcolm returned to llonore for his gun and killed three more birds. Our spirits wore somewhat raised at the prospect of having a little supper, but wo found our last cartridge had been tired. We were now walking down-hill, and a stream ran alongside the path, and which stream we knew must fall into some river. We could hear one in the distance, which wc hoped would prove to be the much wished for liiviri-e-aux-Ecosses, and 30 miles (so we were told by the men at liivic'rc Jacques-Cartier,) from Lake St. John. Ma'colm was very tired and could scarcely walk. I was too anxious to reach this river to feel fatigued, so 1 kept continually asking ^^falcolm to come on at least till we reached the river; timUly he sat down unable to walk any further, so I left him waiting for Ilonoro and Eyan to join him, knowing he would follow, as he was very much afraid of my getting hurt or lost. Our man Ryan was very much terrified of boars, having a firm belief in their partiality for human flesh, and therefore took care neither to walk first nor last. We went on till the moon rose, and at last reached a river, wider than we expected, but shallow. I felt thereforo sure that this could not be La Eiviere-aux-J']cosses. Wo crossed the river, llonore felling a largo tree to make a bridge, and determined to remain hero all night. First wo lighted two largo fires and cooked the partridges, but as we had no Bait they were very tasteless food. Wo had plenty of tea, without which wo could never have had strength to walk, for after drinking a cup-full T used to feel perfectly refreshed. I spent the night as usual in watching the stars and moon- light, and listening to the river, which made a most unearthly moaning. Ilonoro kept up the fire all night, and wc had plenty of nice branches to lie on. •^-- -^r- -r-i Mil I I 111 if ..11 nil 1.1 * 25 TWELFTH DAY. Saturday, September 2iul. Eeach a riva- — We are canicd across — See marks of a cart! — On we loalk—Too tired to talk— New shanty, uith a stove !~Stay (jiadli/ for the niyht—Feet sore from the moccasins — Too tired to cat— Find a Jly and extemporize a thread line — Catch two small fish. Our first words and thoughts naturally wei-o, "Shall wo see Johnson to-day?" AV^o had no breakfast save tea, and the first part of our journey was through a regular "Slough of Despond." Once or twice I fell through into deep holes, and we could see how fearfully the horses must have suttercd, the ground being torn up in their eti'orts to get out of the swamp. After a little time we came to some lakes, separated by green swamps like small fields, the road unmarked except by small spruce trees, few and far apart. Our ])rogre8s became slower and slower, and when we came to the foot of a hill we sat down to rest. In the swamp I saw a few flowers and red berries, the first I had seen since we left La Riviere Jacques- Cartier. We then walked up-hill for some distance, and found the road one degree better, as the trees were cut closer to the ground. We also found some blueberries, which were very acceptable;- but Eyan made a mistake and eat somo poisonous berries instead, and llonore warned him after ho had tasted a few, and nearly frightened him into a tit. About noon we reached a small river, across which Ilonoro carried us. Here we rested and had some tea, and saw what looked like the marks of cart wheels, but how a cart ever had passed there wo were at a loss to discover. Wo still saw marks showing us that the horses were on in front and wo hoped they Avere now safe at Lake St. John. All afternoon we walked, carrying very little, Malcolm helpin'i- me on as much as he could, for it wjvIs impossible for two persons to walk abreast. After we left the river we found the trees were cut down, so that when the road is made it will bo a very broad one ; but no one Avill be able to fill up some of the swamps, which seemed interminable. About dark we camo to a new shanty, with a good stove in it; 1 was only too thankful to remain here all night, as walking in Honore's moccasins had made my feet in a frightful state. Honore cooked our last grain of flour, but I was too tired to eat. He found a Ashing fly in his pocket, and made a line out of sonic cotton I gave him, and, with Malcolm, went 26 to fish in a deep blaclv river running close behind the shanty. They only caught two or three wvy small trout, which they cooked and ate without suit. It avub a lovely moonlight night, although cold, and I walked about to cool my feet^ having taken ott' the moccasins. TIIIETEENTII DAY. Sunday, September 3rd. Nothing left to eat — See three skeleton horses ahead— Find they are our own — Horses and men starved and vrecognizable — Our eqiapage tell their own adventures — Horses starving — Swamp sixteen feet deep — PrO' vmons and aid — On a raft, with our horses in tow — / am starving, and have to he carried on a chair — Blueberries — Poor Jennie failing — Large camp and Plenty of food. AVo had no breakfast this morning, and started in a very des])onding state. The track was somewhat better, but we were too tired to notice what the country was like. About noon we decided to send llonore on to look for the others; when, turning a corner, we saw below us a broad, deep river and three miserable skeleton horses standing by it. There were several men standing about, and when \vo hastened up to them, recognized Johnson and our own poor horses. The latter were covered with cuts and sores, Jennie's olf hind leg one festering sore, on which the flies were feasting. I shall never forget what I felt. Johnson,! hardly knew, so much changed was he from the man who left Quebec such a short time ago. He looked almost starved, and was so weak ho could scarcely stand. Charles was loud in his complaints, and said Johnson had forced them along when half dead from fatigue aiid hunger. Johnson then told us how he and the horses fared. He said when he left us on Wednesda}', 30th August, they travelled for some time through a swamp till he came to a lake, where he fed the horses on some grass growing in a flat, marchy swamp adjoining it. Then returned to the bush track, walked up-hill for a short distance, till he came out on a series of lakes connected by dismal swamps, in which both men and horses struggled and sank. They afterwards aseendetl a hill, overlooking a lake, and encamped on its side. Charles did nothing but grumble. On Thursday, the 3l8t, they started at day-break, and Johnson sent on Felix to Lake St. John, telling him to bring men and provisions, and if too 'I'i I tired not to rotnrn with them. Charles and Johnson were now left alone with the horses, but Charles was too frightened to be of any use, so Johnson tied Jerry to the saddle of tho first horse, because the horses constantly stumbled or strayed from the path to eat a bit of grass or a leaf, and Johnson could not catch them when on in front. The Indian did nothing but bring up the rear and showing Johnson where tho horses fell, especially as he had often to leave all the horses to the Indian (Charles) whilst he went on to test tho footing, and if he found the track impassable ho struck into the bush, away from the blazed path. Many of the swamps were too dan- gerous for Johnson to walk over, let alone horses. He several times said to Charles, 'What made them fix on such swamps over which to make a road?' Charles constantly stopped to set mink- traps. In one place, while the horses grazed, Johnson had the curiosity to cut a long polo and try to find the depth of the swamp. He easily ran the pole sixteen feet into the mud. All the afternoon they followed a river, and towards evening came to a place where it crossed the track or road. It took some time to make a bridge to cross the horses, and, notwithstanding every available care, Katie fell through the bridge, and lay on her side with the water running over the saddle. Fortunately she had the sagacity to remain quiet till Johnson and Charles released her from tho debris, and then the former got her safelj^ up the bank. All next day, Friday, they went on as usual over rocks, stumps and stones, to the imminent peril of life and limb. They passed a shanty, but did not stop there. They saw a mile post, and about five p.m. came to a broad, deep river, which Charles said was La Eiviore-aux-Ecosses, though Johnson rather doubted it, Charles having told him two days ago that they had crossed that river. However, they found it would be impossible to reach the other side till more men arrived, so Johnson fastened the horses to some stumps, and then proceeded to make out whether Felix had crossed. He found his foot-marks and saw a kind of raft moored on tho other side of the river. He then returned, and, after lighting a fire, went to the left of the road and found a little grass. He and Charles fished, but caught only six small fish. However, they found more grass for the horses, and after cooking the fish they rested for the night. On Saturday they spent the morning in looking at the river. Johnson with Charles made a small raft in order to cross tho river, and see how Felix had landed, as he had gone along the track all right. They took the raft about a mile down the river, to the left of the road, where thej^saw rapids. 28 They then fished in a creek, where another river ran into Lea EcosscH. Charles set mink-traps, and Johnson cut nice bundles of grass ibr the horses. In the afternoon they hewed down trees to be ready for a large raft, when more men would come to help them, as they ibund it impossible to move the heavy logs they cut. On Sunday Johnson determined to send Charles to find Felix, fearing the hitter had broken his leg or was fast in a swamp. Charles delayed and grumldcd for some j time, but finally consented to go, when a "whoop" was heard : on the opposite side of the river, and Felix, accomjxinied by three men, appeared in view, bringing provisions. The men j set to work carrying the logs Johnson had cut, and when wo arrived the raft was nearly completed. When Johnson had finished telling us the above, Malcolm and the men had some I dinner, after w^hich the horses were taken over the river ono ! by one. The poor animals Avere so dreadfully emaciated that we were afraid they would not be able to swim, and it was '; not safe to put them on such an insecure i-aft, however, it was I • arranged that three men should go on the raft, two to paddlo I and one to hold the horses' noses above water, their heads i resting on the raft. This plan was a great success, and the horses all crossed as quietly and easily as possible. The Indian Charles made a scat between two poles on which I I could be carried by two men in turns, as I was so weak from [' want of food and rest that I could not stand. After he liad ' manufactured this chair we all crossed the river, Johnson, Mr. Tremblay and another Frenchman going first with the ' horses. The track was nearly as bad as ever, and the two men Avho carried me staggered at every step. For about two miles we traversed a most desolate region, perfectly destitute ; of trees and covered only with rocks and swamps,— as far as the ej^e could reach, a perfect "Valley of Desolation." Felix said there were plenty of bears in the neighbourhood, as they were fond of blueberries. This fruit, though small, grew in this part of our Journey in great abundance, and we all rested and eat some, llonore proposed making dcs conjitvres, but found we had no sugar. After we had crossed a brook wo found it getting so dark we were obliged to stop, and fixing on a good place we all rested for the night. Johnson hadnotliing to give the horses but grass, and Jennie was each hour growing weaker. During our journey this afternoon, if wo stayed for a moment to throw logs over a bad place Jennie fell down from sheer exhaustion, and it took three or four men to raise her. Johnson made some balls of flour and water in his hat, the only available place, and forced them down her 20 throat, but I felt -sure slie would never recover, even if she managed to reach the Lake. This night we liad a very large camp and plenty of Ibod, with bread and salt pork. 1 had some tea without milk or sugar, but 1 thought it nectar. In a short time everything was quiet in our camp, though now and then I saw Johnson get up and look at the horses^ and, after staying awake till daylight, I fell asleep. FOURTEENTH DAY. Monday, September 4th. Tm-ijic bush Jires— Indians make a '^cach6" for the return— Horses prostrated— Arrired at Mr. Trembkn/ s—Astonuhmcnt of the Lake Si. John pcoiAc— Gales—Forests on Ji re— Tried to Cross the lUver Metahetchouun. i Awoke this morning and tbund the horses had started on irr front to find some fresh grass. We did not follow for a little time. Found I must take off Ilonore's moccasins, my feet were too sore to bear them, so, w^earing only stockings, the men carried me along till we reached a lake so lovely as well to deserve its name, <'Lac do la Belle Riviere." Alongside this lake ran the road, wiiere for some distance the busli had been set on fire, evidently for the purpose of clearing the land for farming, and was still burning. It was a grand sight to see the flames starting hither and thither, leaping from tree to tree, leaving nothing but blackened trunks. At the end of the lake we crossed a river, over which was a bridge in^ a tolerable state of preservation. Here we left the "Government Road" and turned into one made by Mr. Price, and wdiich, with few exceptions, though narrow, was not so difficult nor dangerous to traverse. Here the Indians de- posited all the provisions, (thinking we were close to Lake St. John,) hiding them to bo ready to take back with them to Quebec on their return from the Lake ; and soon after ' the pole on Avhich my "carriage" was fixed broke, and I was thrown to the ground. Charles soon cut a new one, and we proceeded till we came to a swamp with some nice grass; here Johnson let the horses rest, and tried to persuade them to eat, but they were unable to do anything but sink down on the grass, till we continued our journey, when whilst the men raised one horse the other two fell down, so that it was 8ome time before they could get them, all on their feet. Poor Jerry fell through one piece of bog, and all the men I I 30 had to dig liim out with their hands. Thel'O were numerous bridges to make and swamps to cross, so we travelled but slowly; in some places tall grass flourished high above our heads, and raspberries of immense size and delicious flavor abounded everywhere. We also saw some very flne trees, far difl'crent from the miserable specimens we had previously encountered. Toward 6 p.m. we saw corn, &c., growing, so knew wo must soon arrive at our destination, and presently we left the bush and saw houses (log huts) and tields before us. Arrived at Mr. Tremblay's, his wife wel- comed us most hospitably, and after enjoying the luxury of plenty of hot water, and putting on a fresh habit, (fortunately 1 had brought two with mo,) we had some supper. By this time the house was crowded with people, asking questions and expressing amazement at the journey we had made. Madame Trcmblay requested information as to the fashions, wished to know if crinoline was worn, and "if my riding habit was the costume now adopted by ladico?" The conver- sation being all carried on in French, it would be nonsense my attempting to describe her expressions of astonishment. She had been educated in a convent at Bale St. Paul, and seemed to think she had lowered herself greatly in coming to live at Lake St. John. Mr. Tremblay told us that we icere the third party he had rescued from starvation in trying to reach the lake by that road. He said that last winter he came from Quebec with eight horses and eight men, and that for two days and two nights they had been obliged to travel without stopping, having no food for either man or beast; they barely reached the lake alive. Our horses were now com- fortably housed, but poor Jennie looked very bad and would cat nothing. About 8 p.m. Malcolm and I made Mr. Tremblay take out his horse and "buck-board" to drive us across the Eiver Metabctchouan to Mr. Charlton's, where we hoped to find letters from England awaiting us. A regular gale was blowing, and the log hut trembled with the violence of the etorm. The whole country seemed on fire, and the wind but fanned the flames. However, I determined to set out, but we could get only about two miles, the wind blowing the fire across the road, and the dense smoke almost suifocating us. Several people on the road warned us back, saying it was not safe to proceed. Most thankful would I have been to have found myself out of this frightful place. I could not help remark- ing to Malcolm, that it was very like what one would imagine the "infernal regions" to be ; the groaning, creaking trees, and sighing, moaning wind sounding like the lamentations which ■•'I 31 would proceed from that abode of tortured and evil spirits. It was too dark to see anything but the glare of the flamea, and I was glad to return to Mr. Tremblay's, where we passed the night. Malcolm tried to get some boots for me and stockings for himself, but I was glad to remain quietly in the house. IJc returned about midnight, bringing a pair of boots for me, and thus ended our tirst evening at Lake St. John. FIFTEENTH DAY. Tuesday, September 5th. Sum2)iuoiis Breakfast— Jennie in a Dying State— Good Roads— Cross the Meiabetclwuan—A Steamboat- Arrival at Mr. Charltoii's- Hospitality— Return to Mr. Tixmhlay' s— Start far Grande. Baie- Arrival at a beautiful, clean home— Good Sujyper— We drive on— All asleep on the road. A lovely day; up at six a.m. Malcolm had a sumptuous breakfast of tea and mutton fried in fat ; notwithstanding our long fast I was not Sybarite enough to appreciate such delicate fare at such an early hour ; and the bread, though newly baked, was of a very dusky hue. A screaming child enchanted us with its shrill voice, and the flies had not yet taken leave of us. After breakfast we went out to see the horses, who looked most wretched, although very well cared for, with plenty of clean straw and good hay. Jennie looked *. in a dying state, and we arc much afraid she will not live. Our Indians and Eyan were lying on the ground fast asleep, too stiff and sore to move. Johnson, the only man awake, was complaining bitterly, and was scarcely able to stand. On our return from the stable we found Mr. Tremblay with his horse and ''Buckboard" waiting to drive us to Mr. Charlton's, and to show us the lake and surrounding country. Malcolm's boots having been sent to be mended, he, being unable to procure others, was obliged to wear a pair of Mr. Tremblay's white woolen stockings, which gave his legs a comical look, though I don't think he thought it a joke to wear such warm stockings without boots on a broiling hot day. The roads we drove over . were in excellent order, and many men were still at work on them. We ascended and descended many steep though short hills. The bush in many places being still on fire showed only too plainly the danger we should have been in from 32 suffocation had avo pursued our journey last night. Mr. Trcmlday gave us niueh information respecting the Saguenay firo, ' j\v liis house was one of the few left standing, and that as many as seventy-six persons had taken refuge there from the fury oi" the flames, that had destroyed their homes. Mr. Tremblay also told us that he had not spoken nor heard a word of English for ten years, but, on hearing us converse for a short time, his former knowledge of our language returned to him. Wo learned from him that only nine miles of the "road" from Lake St. John to Quebec had been completed, after which the road becomes a blii/.ed track, (as we knew from sad experience), and that he believed the work of continuing the road would be abandoned. We passed a very dilapidated wooden cliurch, that of St. Jerome; a more miseral)le looking sacred edifice 1 certainly never saw, but Mr. Treniblay said the building was seldom used. We also saw the remains of an Imlian camp very beautifully situated on the sumnut of a hill, overlooking the river Metabetchouan, which river wo presently reached and crossed in a scow. AVliilst crossing, we observed a pretty little cottage, picturesquely placed at the junction of the river and the lake, the property of the Hudson Bay Company, and occupied by their agent, Mr. Horn. We saw an unox})ectcd object in this desolate looking country, viz. : a steamer, called the Poca?iontas, holon^ing to Messrs. Price Brothers, of Quebec, and used by them to navigate the lake. From the river to Mr. Charlton's our attention was much attracted by the vast extent of burnt and charred trees scattered at intervals over the land, looking like a collection of telegraph posts, minus the wires. This phenomenon was caused by the Saguenay fire, and Malcolm agreed with me that this was a most weird and unnatural looking country. When near our destination, we had a view of the lake, more like a sea in extent than our idea of a lake, the other side only appearing in the distance like a faint silver line. Presently we saw a splendid crop of wheat, with several men hard at .work reaping. I also espied a most comfortable English-looking stable, which Mr. Tremblay informed us belonged to Mr. Charlton, and immediately after- wards we arrived at his house, but on enquiry found its owner absent. Mrs. and Miss Charlton, however, were at home, and received us most kindly, though our arrival was quite unexpected. I felt almost ashamed to accept their hospitality, as both Malcolm and I looked perfect objects from the fly bites and ragged state of our garments, indeed we might easily be taken for vagrants, so wretched did we look, and 33 Malcolm being without boots, completed the picture. After presenting our Ictier of introduction, and explaining our woebegone and sudden ap|)oarancc, Mrs. (Jharlton gave us a good subHtantial dinner, which we much needed and enjo3'ed. After a little more conversation, we re-entered our "cari'iage" and retraced our Bteps to Mr. Trcmblay's. I tried all my powers of perHuasion to induce Malcolm to continue our journey to Quebec without delay, he feeling inclined to remain at Mr. Treinblay's for a lew day's rest, though I felt no inclination to rest anywhere but in our own house at Quel)ec. Our return drive was an intensely hot one, the trees atfording no protection from the sun, whose rays came j)ouring down on our heivds. During our drive (I having persuaded Malcolrai to start for (Jrande Kaie that evening,) wo questioned Mr. Tremblay as to the possibility of ]u-ocuring a fresh horse to take us and our unpretending baggage on to Grande Baie. After a little demur, he agreed to drive us there himself, and if unable lo procure a fresh horse, to drive his own, (the poor animal had already done a i'aii- day's work,) however, we were fortunate enough to tind a man willing to let his horse take the journey, so 1 hoped all would go well. About five p.m. wo reached Mr. Trcmblay's house, and whilst he got ready his horse and vehicle we had some tea. A more vicious horse to catch 1 never saw, and three men spent nearly an hour endeavoring to secure and harness the animal, which was accomplished with much difficulty. Malcolm was now quite anxious to start, as both Johnson and the three horses were too ill to travel, and it was imperative that some one should go to Quebec to buy liniment, &c., for the horses. It was nearly dark when wo left Ilobertville, a small vil- lage about four miles from Mr. Trcmblay's, and boasting (»f a church, a pout office and two very > ood stores. Here I bought some biscuits ami a pair of cotton gloves, in which to hide my hands on board the steamer at Ha! Ha! Bay. We also invested twenty-five cents in a sack of hard nuts. After leaving Hebertville it was too dark to see anything of the country. We crossed afloating bridge, which is all I can remem- ber, except that the road ran alongside Lakes Kenogamichiche and Kenogami. The former, Mr. Tremblay informed us, was nine miles long, the latter twenty-seven. About one hundred yards of land separated the two I^akes. therefore we drove by them for thirty-six miles. Al out ten p.m. we arrived at a small house, where Mr. Tremblay got out to feed his horse, and, after ron.'-ing the mistress of the "mansion," we were glad to accept hor offer of rest and food, which we much ■—iwiiiii I I ■■ » " I'll — 84 needed after our long journey in nuch. a conveyance, which, having neither s])i'ing.s nor atiything to rc6t our backii against, waH a very fatiguitig mode of travelling. Whilst our hoHtess prepared Hupper Malcolm fell asleep, and 1 -soon followed hiH example. Supper being announced wepartookofan oxcoHont repaHt, and 1 remarked how beaufifully clean and nice every- thing was belonging to the old lady's abode. Immediately after Huppcr we continued our journey, feeling much rofroHhod by our sliort rest. It was a beautiful night and the moon shone brightly. Wo crossed several bridgOH, and HomotimeB both Malcolm and I feel asleep, till some hole in the road caused us to wake with a start. Mr. Tremblay also slept for some time, leaving his horse to tind its own way, which, for- tunately, was tl\e right one. SIXTEENTH DAY. Wednesuay, ycptomber GtU. Arrival at Ha ! Ha ! Bay — On Board Stearner — U. S. Tonrutts (kink we are Savages — Veri/ Hlccpy. When day dawned nothing was to bo aeon but the barren hills and rocks of the Saguenay. We did not see Obicoutimi, but drove direct to Ha! Ha! Baj^, where, about seven am., we saw a welcome sight, — the steamer ''Union" anchor- ed at the wharf. We were anxious to got on board unseen, as both were tired and dirty after our night's journey, so we made a rush for a stateroom, and as the isaptain and pur- ser knew Malcolm we were able at dnco to procure one, though not without being observed by numiorous "American" (U. S.) tourists, who seemed to think wo wfere savages. After making as much change as our limited resources would' allow, we were quite ready for breakfast when the bell rang. Having seen the Kiver Saguenay ])reviouflly, I did not remain on deck, though Malcolm was talking to seVoral gentlemen about our trip; several ladies also queetioiiod me, and gave mean account of sundry* adventures, find I Spent a very pleasant day. Towards evening I became so sleepy that I could not keep my eyes open, and MaVCdlmi tMls me I pre- sented a comical appearance at tho taWe,- Vrith my b«ad thrown back and my mouth wide open, CSrttsifig much amuse- ment to the passengers. MMMMiMHliiiili 36 SEVENTEENTH DAY. Thursday, September 7th. Arrival at Quebec—' TwilJ be long before 1 go again into the Canadian Bush. The bjat remained most of the night at Murray Bay, a lovely little village, whore we had spent a month ju8t before starting on our trip to Lake St. John. The rest of our journey was performed by daylight. We passed many pretty places which last summer had made us well acquainted with. We did not reach Quebec till the afternoon, and drove out immediately to our house, where we found our arrival quite unlooked for. It will bo some time before I go again into the Canadian bush. CONCLUSION. Malcolm returns to Lake St. John — Return, overland, of our Indian Guides to Quebec. Malcolm returned to Lake St. John Saturday, 9th Septem- ber, when he found Jennie dead, and the other two horses recovering. Johnson took them down to the Honorable Mr. Price's, at Chicoutimi, and after three weeks (Malcolm haying gone to England on business) brought them back to Quebec, though it was sometime before they could be shod or exer- cised, and even now (March 1872) Katie's legs have not lost the marks of the cuts and bruises she received on the so-called Lake St. John Road. The Indians returned to Quebec safely in about ten days after we left them, but had some difficulty in getting down. We did not ask them for details, being too glad to recover all our belongings (which had been loft on the road) and to find all our party safe and sound.