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CIHM/ICMH
Microfiche
Series.
CIHM/ICMH
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microfiches.
Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions
Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques
1980
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1 2 3
1
2
3
4
5
6
i
enn issnii m n micEiiEn of scieice,
MONTREAL MEETING,
A.ixgTxst 27 tK to Septejrtber 3vd,, 1884.
V ;.
h
liEI'ORT
a
ON CONVEYANCE
[FOR EUROPEAN CIRCULATION.]
MONTREAL:
PRINTED BY THE GAZETTE PRINTING COMPANY.
1884.
■ppwjiimiy
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to-
BRITISH ASSOCIAIION FOR THE ADVANCEMEIIT OF SCIENCE,
MONTREAL MEETING,
Jiizgiisi J971.71 to Septeiixher 3rd, 18S4.
liEIPOiiT
ON CONVEYANCE
[FOR EUROPEAN CIRCULATION.]
MONTREAL :
PRINTED BY THE GAZETTE PRINTING COMPANV.
1884.
(.71)
BRITISH ASSOCIA HON FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF SCIENCE.
MONTREAL MEETING. Auir. 27th to Sept. 3rd. 1884.
CITIZENS' COMMITTEE.
MR. THOS. WIIITK. M.l>.. (;i.ainn„„. [ MR. E. J. liARREAU. Treasurer.
MR. S. C. STEVENSON. Rec. Socy. | DR. B. J. IIARRlNCiTON, Cor. Socy.
EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE.
MR. IIUOII Mclennan, chairman. I MR. J. D. CRAWFORD. Gen. Socy.
OFFICES OF THE CITIZENS' EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE.
MOLSONS BANK CHAMBERS,
198 St. James Street, Montreal.
All communications for Canada should be addressed to
MR, J, D, CRAWFORD,
GJkneral Skcretary,
MONTREAL, CANADA.
Post^Officb Box^147.
'
INTRODUCTORY NOTE.
The substance of pagos .5-10 has already been com-
municated to mem])ers throuj^h the medium of the
Council's circular issued from the London ofHce of the
Association in February last, and which was compiled
from information furnished by the Special Committee on
Conveyance. This matter is re-printed, with additions
and maps, for the use of members while on their out-
ward journey, and more pnrticailarly for those who may
choose the Halifax route. The Guide Book to the Dom-
inion will be ready for distribution to members on their
arrival in Montreal.
It is recommended by the Conveyance Committee
that visiting members should reach Canada in July or
early in August, taking their long excursions prior to
the meeting and thereby more fully availing themselves
of the liberal ofters of free conveyance over the Cana-
dian Pacific and Dominion railways.
The Halifax route is strongly recommended together
with a leisurely excursion, w^hile en vot/age to Montreal,
through the Acadian, provinces of the Dominion.
Rimouski station on the Intercolonial Railw^ay, 190
miles below Quebec, is the summer port-of-call of the
Canadian Royal Mail Steamships from Liverpool to the
St. Lawrence. Here the mails are landed, and passen-
gers by this route may disembark to journe]' -eastward
through the Acadian provinces, or westwara towards
Montreal. Seventy-five miles distant by rail in a
westerly direction is Riviere-du-Loup station, a well-
known sea-side resort, and a stopping place for the
Saguenay steamers.
The American Travelling Certificate, which has been
issued to members from the London office of the Associa-
tion, will suffice for use on the Intercolonial Railway.
It is the wish of the ofiicers of the Canadian Pacifio
Railway that the special excursion to the Rocky
Mountains fshould start as soon as possible after the I
close of the meeting'. It is therefore intended that
those who take part in it shall leave Montreal on
"Wednesday night or Thursday morning", spending the
rest of the week in Ontario, and joining the steamer at
Ow\^ Sound on Saturday evening, September 6th, for
the voyage through lakes Huron and Sui)erior to Port
Arthur. Here the special train will be in readiness
to convey the members to the Roi^ky Mountains and
back.
l^^or those members, who may be unable to re-visit
Toronto on the return journey, parts of Thursday and
Saturday may be devoted to that city ; and, perhaps,
Friday to an excursion to Niagara Falls, which has
been arranged for by the Local Committee organized in
Toronto.
It is the intention of the Montreal Committee, should
the number of tourists warrant the carrying out of the
arrangement, to despatch from Montreal at intervals of
one or two weeks, during the six weeks, July 1st to
August 12th, several excursion parties to the Rocky
Mountains, each of which may probably be accom-
panied by one or more local members as conductors.
While the meeting is in progress excursions will be
organized to places of interest in the neighborhood of
Montreal, some of which are mentioned on pages 14-
15. One or more members of the Local Committee will
also accompany each of these as conductors.
At the close of the meeting, arrangements will be
made to convey those members, who may desire to
attend the meeting of the American Association, to and
from Philadelphia at reduced rates of railway fare.
TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENTS.
A.— OCEAN STEAMERS.
Tho various steamship rompanios will make reduc-
tions in their rates of ocean-passage to (ill members
(whether life, annual, or associate) of the British Asso-
ciation who mry desire to attend the Montreal meeting,
as follows : —
CANADIAN LINES. •
Allan Line of Stoamships — Address : Messrs. Allan Bros.
Sf Co., James Street, Liverpool. — This lim^ will make an
abatement of three guineas from the ordinary fares, so that
th(^ return-rates {exclusive of the government grant),
between Liverpool and Quebec, will be nineteen (19),
twenty-two (22), and twenty-seven (2t) guineas, ac(;ord-
ing to the accommodation. The return-rates between
Liverpool and Halifax will be practically the same.
Holders of return-tickets, will have the privilege of
sailing from any of the United States or Canadian ports,
at which the mail steamers of this line call.
Single tickets, outwards, will be charged at the full
ordinary rates, viz., from twelve (12) to twenty-one
(21) guineas {exclusive of the government grant), but
should the holders of such tickets return by an Allan
steamer, they will be entitled, on application to Messrs.
H. & A. Allan, Montreal, to a homeward cabin-passage
at the reduced rate of ^12 10s.
The mail steamers of this line leave Liverpool every
Thursday for Quebec, and on alternate Tuesdays for
Halifax ; but in all probability, should the applications
T^
for pas8a<yos be Hufliciontly numerous, the coinpniiy
will Hond ono of tlu'ir newest and most i)()\V('irul
vessels as a special steamer.
The sailing days I'rom Canada are every Saturday from
Quebec, and alternate Mondays I'rom llalilax. The out-
ward Halifax steamers proceed to Baltimore, and leave
that p;>rt, for return to Halifax and Liverpool, on alter-
nate Tuesdays.
The Allan company also maintains a week* , service
of steamers between Glasgow and Quebec, leaving the
former port twery W^ednesday. These steamers do not
take passengers yirowi Ameri(;a.
jiArfAVAY cox\nectioj\s.-T\h} distance from Quebec to
Montreal is 172 miles by rail, IGO miles by water ; the
time is about six hours by rail, and eleven hours
(night) by water ; the fare for the double journey is
about 14/3 by rail, and 10/2 by water.
The distance from Halifax to Quebec is G8G miles ;
the time is about twenty-six hours ; the fare//-ee. On
this route, the passenger may visit St. John, New Bruns-
wick, via Moncton. The distance from Moucton to
St. John is 90 miles, the time about three hours, and
the fare/ree. (See government railways below.)
Passengers disembark at the wharves at Quebec
and Halifax, and are transferred to the railway cars,
without cost.
Dominion Line of Steamships.— ilrffi?rg.s.s : Messrs. Flinn,
Main Sf Montgomery, 24 James Street, Liverpool. — ^The
return-rates (exclusive of the government grant), by
any of the regular steamers of this line, from Liverpool
to Quebec, will be seventeen or twenty-one pounds
(£Vl or i)21), according as the accommodation is in a
three- or in a two-berth cabin.
In all probability this company, providing the appli-
cations are sufficiently numerous, will send out one of
their best and newest vessels as a special steamer, in
m a
which caflo tho rdnni-rjitos (flrrlusivr of tho govem-
mont grant), will ho twenty and twonty-rour pounds
{£20 and i!'J4) por pass<'ng«M', in the three- and tvTo-berth
j'aliins, resj^cetively.
Tho "Sarnia" Jind "Oretron" of this lino, carry
neither rattle nor sheep. The company's steamers leave
Liverpool every Thursday, and on th(^ return-voyagos,
leavi^ Quehee every Saturday.
hailwav coNMjrnuNs. -Tho same as those specified for
the Allan line from Quebec.
Canada Shipping Company.— A (hfrcsa : Mr. R. W. Roberts^
Manager, 21 Water Shref, Lirrrftoof. — The return-rates
{exclusive of the government grant), bv any of the
ordinary steamers of this line, from Liverpool to Mont-
real, will be eighteen pounds (€18).
The steamers leave Liverpool every Thursday, and on
the return-voyage leave Montreal every Wednesday.
Cattle and sheep are usually carried on the return-
voyage.
RAfLWAY coiVNECTroNS'.-Tho passougers have the option
of disembarking at Montreal or Quebec ; in the latter
case, the railway connections arc the same as those
specified for the Allan line.
UNITED STATES LINES.
The White Star Line of Steamshipa, — Address : Messrs.
Ismay, Imrie 8^' Co., 10 Water Street, Liverpool. — The return-
rates from Liverpool to New York, by any of the
ordinary steamers of this line, will be from thirty
to thirty-five (30 to 35 guineas, according to the
accommodation.
The company express an intention, if the applica-
tions for passages are sufficiently numerous, of sending
a special steamer to New York, during the first or
second week of August, by which the return-rates,
will be twenty-two, twenty-five and thirty pounds
(i)22, iI25 and .£30) according i;o the accommoda-
tions. The compauy, however, reserve to themselves
the right, if the vessel is not full a few weeks be-
fore the date of sailing, of filling her up with other
passengers.
The mail steamers of this line leave Liverpool every
Tuesday or Thursday, and on the return-voyages leave
New York every Tuesday or Saturday, and sometimes
on both days.
RAILWAY coNNECTioNS.-(See details of railway arrange-
ments). The distance from New York to Montreal is
from 380 to 400 miles by different routes ; the time is
about 14 hours ; the fare for the double journey 45/2,
the cost of transfer from the wharves to the railway
depot about 5/-.
The Cunard Line of SteamshipB.— Address : The Cunard
Steamship Co., Limited, 8 Water Street, Liverpool. — The
ordinary return-rates, by the steamers of this line,
from Liverpool to New York or Boston, are thirty (30)
guineas, thirty-five (35) guineas, and forty-five pounds
(i545), according to the accommodation ; but to mem-
bers of the British Association, the forty-five pound
berths will be ,. n lor thirty-five guineas, and the
thirty-five gui ^ rths for thirty guineas.
The mail steam s of this line leave Liverpool every
Saturday for Ne York, and every Wednesday for
Boston ; on the return- voyages, thej'- leave New York
every Wednesday, and Boston every Saturday.
liAiLWAY coNNECTioNS.-(See details of railway arrange-
ments). Those from New York to Montreal are the
same as specified for the White Star line.
The distance from Boston to Montreal is from 350
to 400 miles, by the various routes ; the time from 11 to
13 hours ; the fare Ibi the double journey about Si/- ; the
cost of transfer from the wharves to the railway depot
about 6/-.
Guion Line of Ste&mshipe.— Address : Messrs. Guion Sf
Co., 11 Rumford Place, Liverpool. — The return-rates,
from Liverpool to New York will be twenty-two,
twenty-fivo, and thirty pounds (c£22, ^25, and ilSO)
according to the accommodation, by any of the steamers
of this line in which there may be room when appli-
cations for passages are made.
The mail steamers leave Liverpool every Saturday,
and on the return-voyage, leave New York every
Thursday.
RAILWAY coNNECTiONs.-The Same as those specified for
the White Star line.
Anchor Line of Steamahii>B.— Address : Messrs. Henderson
Bros., It Water Street, Liverpool. — The return-rates,
(exclusive of the government grant), from Liverpool
to New York by the steamers of this line, will be
twenty-five (25) and thirty (30) guineas per passenger
according to accomodation.
The service between Liverpool and New York is tri-
monthly, and the dates of sailing are duly advertised.
This company also maintains a weekly service between
Grlasgow and New York, leaving the former port every
Friday, and the latter every Saturday.
RAILWAY coNNECTiONS.-The Same as those specified for
the White Star line.
The Monarch Steamship lAne.—Address : Messrs. John
Paion Sc Co., Fenclmrch Avenue, London, B.C. — The return-
rates, {exclusive of tVie government grant), from Lon-
don to New York by the steamers of this line will be
twenty-one pounds (<£21) to a limited number of the
members of the British Association.
The dates of sailing may be obtained at the above
address.
RAILWAY coNNECTiONS.-The Same as those specified foi
the White Star line.
10
American Line of Ste&mahipB.— Address : Messrs. Richard-
son, Spence Sf Co., 19 Water Street, Liverpoot. — The rates
from Liverpool to Philadelphia and return will he
twenty (20), twenty-five {2^)), and thirty (80) guineas,
according" to the acM-ommodation. The steamers of this
line sail from Liverpool every Wednesday, and on alter-
nate Saturdays ; and from Philadelphia every Saturday,
and on alternate Wednesdays.
RAILWAY CONNECTIONS.— M.(imher{i taking the Phila-
delphia route, will be conveyed by rail between Phila-
delphia and New York (90 miles, time two hours) at
the reduced fare of 10/4. From New York to Montreal,
the arran<j;'ements will be the same as specified for the
White Star Line.
Other Steamship Lines.— The Inman and National lines
have each a weekly service between Liverpool and
New York, and the latter a service between London and
New York, full particulars of which may be obtained
from their respective agents.
N. B— The privilege of reduced fares will be granted
on presentation of a Travelling Certificate, which may
be procured from the Secretary of the Association, the
Rev. Prof T. G-. Bonney, 22 Albemarle St., London, W.
These reduced fares will be available to members
over the Canadian lines of railway from the first of
July, and over the United States lines from the first of
August, and will remain in force up to the end of Sep-
tember, in both cases.
A list of places where the railway tickets may be
purchased is given on pages 15-16.
Members may obtain definite and reliable information
regarding American railways on application at any of
the Tourist ofiices of Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son. The
New York office of this firm is also freely open to them
on their arrival in that city ; it is No. 201 Broadway.
11
B.— RAILWAYS.
The Government Railways.— The Hon. Sir Charles
Tupper, High Commissioner of Canada and Minister
of Railways and Canals, has authorized the Committee
to state that members of the British Association, with
their families, will be conveyed over the government
railways throughout the Dominion free of charge,
on presentation of their tickets of membership. This
privilege will be especially valuable to those mem-
bers who may desire to proceed to Montreal via Hali-
fax ; which is the Atlantic terminus of the Intercolonial
Railway. From Halifax, the railway extends eastward,
via Truro, to Pictou, and westward, via Moncton, to
Quebec ; with a branch-line from Moncton to St. John,
N.B. Members desirous of visiting Prince Edward
Island, may travel by this railway from Halifax to
Pictou, (44 miles), and thence by steamer to Char-
lottetown, P.E.I. ; a further journey of about four hours.
The Island railways are also government property, and
are free to members. The return-journey may be varied
by taking the ferry steamer from Summerside to Shediac,
and thence proceeding by rail, via Moncton, to Quebec
or to St. John, N.B.
Guide Books of the Intercolonial Railway may be
obtained at the office of the High Commissioner, 9
Victoria Chambers, "Westminster, London, S. "W.
The Canadian Pacific Railway Co. will, from the 1st of
July, up to the date of the departure of the special free
excursion to the Rocky Mountains, grant to visiting-
members, free passes over its lines to the Northwest
(Rocky Mountains, Lake Superior, etc.) and intermediate
points. Meals may be obtained eti route, at a rate not
exceeding 2/- (50 cents), and sleeping-berths at the
usual rates.
12
■1 '
I
I
This company also oilers to one huudred and fifty (150'
members ol' the British Association, a free special excur-
sion to the Rocky Mountains, by way of Georgian Bay,
Thunder Bay and Winnipeg. Those places passed during
the night on the outward journey, will be re-passed dur-
ing the day on returning. The company will provide the
necessary sleeping-cars, and undertakes that meals shall
be obtainable at a rate not exceeding 2/- (50 cents).
The excursion will leave Montreal as soon after the
close of the meeting as may be found convenient, and
will require about twelve days for its accomplishment.
Members who desire to take part in the excursion
should communicate with Mr. Crawford as soon as
possible.
At an early date, the company will have in operation
two lines to the Northwest — one via Ottawa, Pem-
broke and Callender, to Algoma (situate at the north-
west end of Lake Huron, and distant from Montreal
about 540 miles) — the other v/a Ottawa, Perth and Peter-
borough to Toronto, and thence by the Toronto, Grrey &
Bruce branch, to Owen Sound (situate on Lake Huron
at the south end of Georgian Bay). From Owen
Sound and Algoma, the lake service will be performed
by the company's new Clyde-built steamships, passing
through Georgian Bay and Lake Superior to Port Arthur,
at the western end of the latter lake ; the duration of
the voyage from Owen Sound being about forty hours.
It is intended that the excursionists should go west by
the latter route, which passes through some of the
longest settled and best known districts of the province
of Ontario. Arrangements will be made for trips
and excursions from Toronto, across Lake Ontario to
Niagara, under the direction of local committees to be
formed in both places ; giving to all members an oppor-
tunity of visiting the Falls. From Port Arthur west-
ward, the railway passes through the towns of Winni-
peg, Brandon, Eegina, Medicine Hat and Calgary, before
ty (150^
I cxcur-
111 Bay,
during
led dur-
dde the
i\s shall
cents),
["ter the
!nt, and
;hment.
cnrsion
soon as
)eration
I, Pem-
3 north-
bntreal
1 Peter-
G-rey &
Huron
Owen
formed
massing
irthur,
tion of
hours,
^est by
of the
'ovince
trips
ario to
s to be
oppor-
• west-
SVinni-
before
13
reaching Stephen (the summit-level of the Rocky Moun-
tains), the entire distance being about fourteen hundred
miles. The running time from Port Arthur to Winni-
peg is abou; twenty hours, and about forty from "Winni-
peg to Stephen. On the return-journey, members may
vary their route, by passing from "Winnipeg over the
company's line to Emerson and St. "Vincent, and thence
southward through the United States, via St. Paul and
Chicago ; the cost and mileage of this return-route is
given on another page. One of the Canadian Pacific
Hail way map.s will accompany this report, and mem-
bers may obtain all further information from the com-
pany s general emigration-agent, Mr. Alexander Begg,
88 Cannon street, London, E. C.
The company will also arrange for excursions from
Montreal to Brockville, by way of Ottawa ; thereby
giving members an opportunity of visiting the Thou-
sand Islands, and returning by steamer through the
Long Sault, Coteau, Cedar, Cascade and Lachine Rapids.
The Canada Atlantic Railway Co. offers to members
of the British Association and their families free excur-
sions to Coteau and Ottawa, returning by the rapids ;
and also free-passes, by any of the ordinary trains, over
the same route. This railway extends from Montreal
to Coteau, 37 miles, over the G-rand Trunk line, and
thence to the city of Ottawa, 78 miles. The time from
Montreal to Ottawa is about three hours.
The Grand Trunk Railway Co. has made favourable
arrangements with its connecting railways, under
which, those members who may wish to proceed to
Montreal via New York, Boston, or Philadelphia, will
be conveyed to and from Montreal at about one-half the
usual rates. A wide choice of routes will be afforded,
with opportunities of seeing the River Hudson, Sara-
toga, Lake George, Lake Champlain, etc., when on the
way from New York.
14
i This company has also made arrangements,which will
enable those members who may desire it, to vary their
return- journey from the Northwest, by leaving the
Canadian Pacific Railway at Winnipeg, and return-
ing to Montreal via St. Vincent, St. Paul, Minneapolis,
Chicago, and Niagara Falls, the lares being about one-
half the usual rates.
The company has also offered, on the same liberal
terms, an excursion to Chicago via the great lakes, and
one to Niagara Falls.
Members may obtain time-tables, maps, and all other
information, at the Company's London office, Dashwood
House, 9 New Broad Street, E. C.
The North Shore Railway extends from Montreal to Que-
bec, on the north side of the River St. Lawrence ; dis-
tance 172 miles, time about five hours. This comjiany
will give an excursion to Quebec by special trains, at
10/6 for the double journey, and i^assages to mem-
bers on the regular trains, at reduced rates. An excur-
sion will also be arranged to Three Rivers (74 miles),
and thence by a branch to Grand-Piles (30 miles) — a
large lumbering and forest region, near to which are the
Shawenegan Falls.
The Central Vermont Railroad connects with the Grand
Trunk Railway at St. Johns, 27 miles south from
Montreal, and reaches, with its connections, all the im-
portant points in New England lying between the
cities of New York and Boston. An excursion to Lake
Cham plain, Waterbury and the Green Mountains of
Vermont, will be arranged over this railway.
The South Eastern Railway, which, with its connections,
is called the Montreal and Boston Air Line, affords com-
munication -with all important New England points
between Boston and Portland, including the White
Mountains. An excursion wall be arranged, by this
15
railway, to Newport, Vermont (distance 100 miles, time
about ibur hours), unci thence by steamer to the outlet
of Lake Mempliremagog, returning to Montreal by the
same route.
The Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s railways connect
with the Grand '^unk Railway at Rouses Point, 50
miles south of Montreal, and extend thence along the
west shore of Lake Champlain, into the states of New
York and Pennsylvania. An excursion will bi; arranged
from Montreal to Plattsburg on Lake Champlain, and
thence to Au-Sable Chasm in the Adirondacks, return-
ing by the same route.
The Richelieu and Ontario Co. has a steamer leaving
Montreal for Quebec every week-day at ^ o'clock p.m. ;
also another leaving every week-day at noon for Toronto,
Hamilton, and Niagara. Reduced fares will be arranged
for, and also one or two excursions.
Through Tickets, in accordance with the above ar-
rangements, may, on presentation of a certificate to be
obtained from Prof. T. Gr. Bonney, be proiaired as follows :
— In Eni^iand, at the offices of the various steamship com-
panies ; in Montreal and Quebec, at the Grand Trunk Rail-
way stations ; in New York, at the New York Central
Railway, Grand Central dejiot, 42nd street, and at the
New York, West Shore and Buffalo depot ; in Boston^
at the Boston and Lowell depot, either for the Central
Vermont, or for the Montreal and Boston Air Line ; in
Philadelphia, at the Pennsylvania Railway depot ; in
Chicago, at the Chicago and Grand Ti'unk depot, corner
of 4th Avenue and Polk streets ; in iit. Paul, at the Union
depot, for the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific, the
Chicago and Northwestern, and the Chicago, Milwau-
kee and St. Paul Railways.
N.B. — All the railway-companies, referred to herein,
grant the privilege of breaking the journey at points
of interest.
n
Slooping-berths in curs nvorag'(» about 8/- a niij^ht, and
seats ill day palace-cars about O/^J a day for each pas-
senger. Meals in diuing-i-ars and relreshmeut-rooms
are charged lor at the rate oi' IVoni 2/- to 3/-.
Hotel rates throughout Canada seldom exceed three
to four dollars per diem. A list of hotels and of special
rates will be given in a special circular.
Money.— The sovereign is a legal tender throughout
Canada for four dollars and eighty-six and two-third
cents (14.86 1). Bankers' letters-of-credit, cir(?ular-notes
and marginal-bills, as also Bank of England notes, are
easily negotiable at the rate of about four dollars and
eighty cents to the pound sterling (|4.80=«£1).
Local Committees will be organized in the various Can-
adian cities to be visited, — as Halifax, St. John, Quebec,
Ottawa, Kingston, Toronto, Hamilton, London, Winni-
peg, etc., etc. — to receive excursionists and visiting-
members, and to care for them during their stay. Dr.
Greorge Lawson, Vice-President of Section D, is a lead--
ing member of the Halifax committee. In St. John the
Mayor of the City, Dr. Botsford and Mr. F. G-. Matthew
occupy similar positions ; and in Quebec Col. Rhodes,
the Abbe Laflamme and Mr. J. M. Lemoine.
Telegraphs. — Through the liberality of the Great
Northwestern and "Western Union telegraph companies,
telegraphic messages from members of the Association
will, during the meeting, be sent from Montreal to all
parts of Canada and the United States, free of charge ;
and further the Associated Atlantic Cable Companies
have agreed together to pass during the meeting,
without charge, social messages, to and from the dele-
gates, and their families, under arrangements and
restrictions to be hereafter detailed.
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ACADIA.
ill!
[KoTE. — Tho followin«^ pM^os nro taken from ad-
vance nlicH'tH of a fiuide Hook to the Dominion, which
Ih undci- ])i'ei)aration hy Mr. S. K. Uavv.son, a member
of the CitizeiiM' Committee, and they are hero reprinted
for the information and guidance of tliose visiting
moml)erH who may choose the Halifax route for their
outward voyage.]
L'Acadie is the euphonious French name for the
Maritime Provinces of Canachi. now called Nova Sco-
tia, New Brunswick and Prince P'dward Island. The
word is derived from a Micmac word Cadie, signifying
a place of abundance, and, as used by the Indians,
was always qualified by another word expressing the
tldng which tliere abounded. Quoddy, a word fre-
quently met with in localities on the Buy of Fundy,
is a Malicete form of tho same word. In the charter
for the settlement of the country, granted by Henry
IV. to doMonts, it is styled La Cadie, and this name
is not only historically proper, but conveniently
applicable to all these jii'ovinces for they are similar
in climate, soil, productions and people. Such subtle
differences in manner and appearance as may exist
amt)ng the people can be distinguished only by one
long resident in the country. Acadia is, in tho true
fitness of things, the proper place in the New World
at which an Englishman should land. Nova Scotia,
especially, is mildly American ; and the transatlantic
mind may there collect itself, after the sea voyage,
before encountering tho oppressive superiority of
Boston, tho cosmopolitan indifference of New York,
or the exuberant metaphors of the irrepressible West.
The track across the ocean, which a steamship from
Liverpool to Halifax follows, has been a highway
for many centuries. Before William tho Norman
landed in England, while Canute the Dane was king,
the ships of the Norsemen of Iceland and Greenland
visited the waters of Acadia and coasted its shores.
It was in the year 1000 that Leif Erikson landed in
21
Nova Scotlu, (Markland ho callorl it), in-ohahly near
Capo 8al»lo. Af'tor him, camo Thorval<( Eriknon and
Thoi'Htcin Krikrtoii with hiw wife ♦Jiulrid; and thou
f()llo\vo<l (iiidrid a^ain with hor Hocond luiHhaiid
Thoi'Hnn, and Froydis; an<l in A. I). 1121 liisljoj) Krik
Upni and othorn, until, in l.'U7, tjjo " Hhick Ih'ath "
Hcour^od tho North and ulniDst (lopo|)ulatod Noiway,
Icoland and GroonUmd. Thoncof'orth thoy coaHCMl to ()o
Hwarnun^ hivos of advonturous fVecbootorH. But tlio
^ooo^i'uphical knowlod^o ac(|uiro<l was not lost ; and
when, in 1477, Cohunbus visited Iceland, tho Ha^as
still extant, in which the decdH of tho old Norne
Hailoi'H aro rocordod, ha<l licoa written ; and tho traili-
tiouB ot'llolluland, Markland and Vinland wore in tho
niomorioH of tho older men.
Tho rostlosH maritime enoi'^y oi' tho Nor.Momon pasH-
ed into tho NornianH of Dieppe and the Bretons of
St. Malo; ami os])ecially into the liasquos of Bayonne,
St. Jean do Luz and St. Sebastian. These latter were
the whalers of the tifteenth and sixteenth eenturiort
and, in foUowincf tho whales as they became scarce in
the Bay of Biscay, out into their far ocean haunts,
they came upon tho Banks of Newfoundland, then
as now teeming with tish. Jac(iuos (Jartior on his
first voyage found a vessel from Kocholle on the coast
of Newfoundland. She was looking for tho harbour
of Brest, a place then well known on the coast of
Labrador at which Cartier also called. He found the
coast named already until he came to Anticosti.
Cabot, who first coasted the mainland of America in
1497, may well havo been ante-dated by some of
those daring whalers and fishermen who as early as
1504 are known to havo thronged the harbours of
Newfoundland and Labrador. Therefore, on the very
earliest maps Newfoundland (supposed to be a group
of islands) was called Baccalaos, the word for cod-
fish in the Basque tongue, from whence it passed into
Spanish, Portuguese and Italian.
Early in the 16th century the English took up the
whale fishery ; but thoy had to omj^loy Basques as
harpooners, until they themselves acquired the requi-
site skill. They spent their energies in the Northern
Seas, and named all the shores of Hudson's Bay and
Davis' Straits and northwards with English names, in
their vain endeavours to find a north-west passage
to the Indies. Other Englishmen became great free-
booters, like Drake, Hawkins and Cavendish, and
fought the Spaniards in peace or war wherever they
found them, in tho West Indies or in the great South
22
Sea. But tho Spaniurds uiicl French chiefly worked
the fmliei-icH in thcHo early days, and French and
Spaninli Basques caui^lit whales in the Gulf of St.
Lawrence as I'ar up as Tadousac, and traded for furs
loHii; before Champlain's time, probably as far up
the river as llochelaga. Basque and French memories
linger all round the coast, and bear witness to tho
present day to the maritime enterprise of cities whose
glories have depai-ted, and whose silent quays and
empty warehouses tell of nations who were not equal
to their oppo]'tunities.
In history it is the improbable which happens.
The philosophy of history has many attractions. It
is so easy to look backwards and demonstrate how
everything necessarily happened just as it did. To
look forward, however, and verify the philosophy
by successful prophecy, is the true test of a science.
He would have been a bold prophet who in the
seventeenth century could have looked at a map of
North America and prophesied that in 200 years it
would be the greatest Anglo-Saxon country in the
world. All Canada and Acadia were French. The
French posts occupied all the Ohio valley. The
Spaniards occupied Florida and claimetl the Caro-
linas. The Dutch occupied New York. The Swedes
occupied the Delaware, Only in Virginia and New
England had the English race a footing. But they
did the work which lay before them manfully, steadily
and quietly, for if there were political weather pro-
phets then their vaticinations have not been j)i'®-
served.
Acadia was colonised by the French. Before
Champlain founded Quebec, he, or rather his compa-
nion Poutrincourt, founded x'ort Royal, now Annor
polls, in Nova Scotia. The expedition sailed from
Havi*e in 1604 imder the command of deMonts, to
whom Henry lY. had granted the privilege of trade.
Champlain sailed with him — a brave and experienced
captain, who had spent two years and a half in the
West Indies and in Mexico, and had made a voyage to
Tadousac and gone up the St. Lawrence as far as
the present Montreal — who was indeed an acquisition
to the expedition. They made land at Le H^ve,
which still bears that name, and coasted along touch-
ing at Port Mouton, Cape Sable, St. Mary's Bay, Long
Island, all nnmes still clinging to these places. Then
deMonts separated to explore another part of the
Bay, and Champlain continued coasting until he
entered the harbour, now Annapolis Basin. He called
28
it Port Eoyal, for it was " ono of the finest har-
bours he had seen in those lands." It was not until
the followinijj year they settled there. The winter of
1604 was passed at St. Croix, an island a few miles
above St. Andrew's, near the Junction of the river of
that name with the sea. In 1G05 they crossed the
Bay, settled at Port Eoyal and Poutrincourt, founded
the first permanent settlement of Europeans on the
Western Continent north of the Spanish fort at St.
Augustine in Florida. Nova Scotia then is the elder
sister of the Canadian Confederation.
The romantic history of the French settlement can-
not be given here in detail. Nor can we do more than
allude to the I'emarkable characters who figure in
this interesting though little known history of a
remote colon; , to Membertou the great sachem, to
Poutrincourt, to d'Aulnay Charnissay, to La Tom*
and his heroic wife, to the Baron de St. Castine,
the brilliant young officer who left his regiment in
Canada and married the daughter of Madockawando
and became a great Indian sachem on the Bay of
Fandy. Nor can we stop to relate how the English
repeatedly plundered and sacked Port Royal; and
how they claimed Acadia, sometimes as a part of
Virginia, and sometimes as a part of Massachu-
setts. No matter what went on in Europe, there
was seldom peace in America in those days. The
kings of England, Fi-ance and Spain granted charters
and commissions, and made claims, which overlapped
each other by many hundreds of miles. Nothing out
confusion could follow, and the French and English
and Indians harried each other without cessation.
The French were still settled in different parts of
Nova Scotia when James I. granted in 1621 the
whole of Acadia to Sir William Alexander, in which
charter the name Nova Scotia first appears. In 1625,
Charles I. confirmed the grant, and added with
impartial ignorance Anticosti, Nantucket, Martha's
Vineyard, and parts of Canada. The only traces of
his royal bounty now remaining are the Baronets of
Nova Scotia and tbe claims of imaginary Earls of
Sterling. This order of Knights Bannerets still exists
in Old Scotland, a heritage of certain noble families.
It possesses an escutcheon, motto, insignia and dress,
but no land ; and Nova Scotia knows nothing of them.
The English had taken Acadia and Quebec in 1629
but in 1632, by the treaty of St. Gei-main en Laye,
both were restored to France. But in 1654, in a time
of peace, the English Commonwealth, ruled by Crom-
31 !
24
well, and the Massachussetts Commonwealth, again
seized Acadia. Cromwell as Lord Protector granted it
to Sir Thoman Temple and two others, but again it
was restored to France by the treaty of Breda in
166Y. In 1690, Sir William Phipps conquered it and
MassachuHsets claimed it under a charter of King
William III. ; then follows a confused and turbulent
history of border feuds until in 1713 the whole of
Acadia with the exception of Cape Breton was ceded
by France to England. An English governor took
up his residence at Port Royal which thenceforth
became Annapolis. N'ot long after, commenced the
dispute as to the boundaries of Acadia, followed by the
struggle for the Ohio valley, finally leading up to
the conquest of Canada.
After the cession of Acadia in 1^13 Cape Breton, or
Isle Eoyale as it was then called, became of vital
importance to France as the key of the Gulf of St.
Lawrence, and consequently of Canada. Therefore
Louisburg was founded upon a magnificent harbour,
and a fortress of the first class was erected there.
The French monarchy devoted what strength it had
to spare from its European schemes to Canada,
Cape Breton and Louisiana. The English colonies,
on the other hand, were very little thought of by
their monarchs ; but they possessed free self-govern-
ing legislatures, containing within themselves all the
possibilities of growth. Thirty years later came the
inevitable collision, and now the Islands of St. Pierre
and Miquelon alone remain of all the magnificent
empire of France in America.
The subsequent history of Acadia will be alluded to
in the sketches of the several provinces. The name
Nova Scotia now superseded the old French name.
New Brunswick was the county of Sunbury, until
1*784, when it was erected into a province under its
present name. Cape Breton, in the same year was
made a separate government, and in 1820 it was re-
annexed. In 1784 also the Island of St. John was
separated from Nova Scotia, and in 1799 the name
was changed to Prince Edward Island, after the Duke
of Kent who was much beloved by the settlers.
There were several places called St. John in British
America and much confusion resulted therefrom.
The Acadian provinces from that period remained
separated until united into the Dominion of Canada.
After this sketch of the general history of Acadia it
will be convenient to consider it under its four natu-
25
ral divisions, viz., Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Pi'ince
Edward Island, and New Brunswick.
NOVA SCOTIA.
The peninsula of Nova Scotia is 275 miles long by
100 miles in breadth at its broadest part ; but, to the
length of the Province 100 miles must be added for
the island of Capo Breton wiiich belongs to it ])oliti-
cally. The area of the entire province is 20,1)07
square miles. It presents to the ocean a bold and
rocky fi-ont, studded with islands, and abounding
with excellent harbours. Dividing the peninsula by
the line of watershed running through its whole
length at the centre, the south-eastern half, look-
ing towards the Atlantic, is composed of Cambrian
rocks, with intrusions of granite at Halifax, Shel-
burne and Musquodoboit ; while the north-western
half consists of Silurian and carboniferous strata
edged on the shore of the Bay of Fundy by a
bold and lofty ridge of trap rock 600 feet in height,
on the inner side of which flows the Annapolis river.
This remarkable border of protecting rock is called
the North Mountain. On the opposite side of the
river is the South Mountain running parallel. The
pc-tion of the peninsula which connects it with the
rest of Acadia is divided by the Cobequid Mountains
1,100 feet high which separate the streams flowing
into the Basin of Minas from those flowing into North-
umberland Straits. The coast line is deeply indented
with inlets so that no part of the province is distant
more than 30 miles from the sea.
Soil.— The interior of the province along the divid-
ing ridge is a broken country, and the south-eastern
part, as a rule, is not adapted for farming although it
contains much good land. On the south-west side,
however, the land is veiy rich. The valley of the
Annapolis Eiver and the land ai-ound the Basin of
Minas is proverbial for its fertility. The high tides
of the Bay of Fundy have produced marsh soils of
inexhaustible richness ; for they bear with them an
alluvium which lenders manuring unnecessary. The
land also on the Gulf of St. Lawrence side is good.
The province abounds in lakes, none of them large,
where good fishing is to be had. The Cobequid
Mountains are clothed with forests which produce
abundance of excellent timber. The energies of the
Nova Scotians have always been directed rather to
Hhip-biiildin^, fishini^ and mining, than to farming ;
although, li'oin the western part of tho province,
there has always been a large export of agricultural
products of all kinds.
Climate. — Tho climate of Nova Scotia \h very conge-
nial to old country settlers. It is not so cold in
winter, or so warm in summer, as the rest of tho
Dominion. It is changeable according as the winds
blow from the continent or from the sea. The wind
from the south often comes loaded with vapour from
the warm waters of the gulf stream, which condenses
into fog along the coasts of tho Atlantic and the Bay
of Fund3\ These fogs ai*e not enjoyed by the Cana-
dians of the inland provinces, but the fresh com-
plexions of the Acadians bear witness that they are
conducive to health. Ponce-de-Leon, instead of search-
ing for the fountain of youth among the lean and
wrinkled alligatoi-s of the tepid moi'asses of Florida,
should have looked further north. A dip into a cool
fog in the summer and a diet of succulent oysters,
pugnacious lobsters and nutritious codfish, is the
nearest thing which the world affords to the fountain
of rejuvenescence. There is more rain in the Acadian
provinces than in Canada owing to the proximity
of the ocean. In the south-western part of the Pro-
vince sheep are pastured out all the winter.
Minerals. — Nova Scotia abounds in valuable min-
erals. In the Cambrian, all along the Atlantic coast,
gold is found in considerable quantity. During the
last year the export of gold from Nova Scotia mines
amounted to $279,735. Gj^sum is largely mined.
The export last year to the United States amounted
to 138,081 tons. Iron is abundant and the ores are of
superior quality.
Coal.— The coal fields of Pictou and Cumberland are
very well known. In the latter section the Spj-ing-
hill coal mine is reached by the Intercolonial Eail-
way. The coal field of the Pictou district has been
long and extensively worked. The two main seams
of the Acadia mines give a thickness of 18 feet and 11
feet respectively of good coal. At tho Albion mines
a section of the main seam gave 36f feet of coal
including a thickness of twenty three inches of inter-
stratified beds of ironstone, and a section of the deep
seam gave 18|^ feet of good coal. The larger portion
of the coal raised is consumed in the Dominion.
2t
Biii'ing tho year ending June HO, 1881}, however, the
export8 to foreign countries amounted to 21fi,805 tons
from tlie whole province of Nova Scotia, iiwluding
Cape Breton. The known productive coal tieUU of
Nova Scotia cover an area of 685 square miles. Tho
Nova Scotia coals are much esteemed for "^as pur-
poses and were it not for tho heavy tariff woukl bo
(as thoy were foimei-ly) used in the United States to
a very much greater extent.
The whole of the mines of tho province were in
182G leased by the Oj'own to the Duke of York, who
transferi'ed the lease the following year to the General
Mining Association of London. This corporation
worked the coal mines of Pictou and Cape Breton for
many years, but disputes arose between it and the
Provincials until at last, in 1857, the Association gave
up its claims to all unopened mines upon receiving
an undisputed title to certain areas in the coal fields
of Ca])e Breton, Pictou and Cumberland. New com-
panies were then organised who work the mines, now
under Provincial laws. All the coal of Nova Scotia is
bituminous. Further particulars of these coal areas
will be found under the notices of the respective
localities. There are things to be seen in the mines
of this province which cannot be seen elsewhere in the
world. Sir Charles Lyell crossed the sea twice mainly
for the purpose of visiting them, and in his " Student's
Elements of Geology," chapters 23 and 24 show
what an important position the coal measures of Nova
Scotia hold in the domain of science.
Gold.— That half of the Peninsula of Nova Scotia
which faces to the Atlantic is, as has been stated,
Cambrian with large areas of granite. In this section,
throughout its whole area of about 6,500 square miles,
numerous lodes of gold-bearing rocks have been found.
The gold occurs in quartz veins in the Cambrian
strata. When the auriferous natiu-e of the rocks was
discovered in 1860 there was great excitement which
calmed down in time to a steady industry. As a gen-
eral thing, howevei', this is not carried on by the most
approved methods. The largest yield in any single
year was in 1867, when 27,314 oz. of gold were
extracted. Since then the product has varied. In
1883, it was 15,446 oz. Work is now carried on in
about twenty diflterent localities. The average yield
per man per day was $2.84 to the whole of the mines
worked during that year.
'I:
28
Iron.— Iron occiu's in many places, but it is worked
only at Londonderry. There it is found in an immense
vein of ankerite 30 to 150 feet wide, holding brown
hematite and extending for many miles. Last year
the Steel Company took out 52,410 tons of ore.
Fisheries,— At the last census 24,636 men were
employed in the fisheries in 755 vessels and 13,214
boats. The fish caught are cod, mackerel, herrings,
salmon, halibut, haddock. The product of canned
lobsters for that year is given at 3,841,476 lbs. The
value of the fisheries of the province was estimated for
the year ending June, 1883, at $7,621,500,
Population,— The population of the entire province,
including Cape Breton, is 440,572, Of this number
117,487 are Roman Catholics, 60,255 are Church of
England, 112,477 are Pj-esbyterian and 50,780 are
Methodist. There are 41,219 Acadian French in the
province and 40,065 of German descent; these are
mostly in Lunenburg county. The Scottish element
preponderates in the remaining part of the popula-
tion. Immigration to Nova Scotia has been very
scanty, therefore of the total population 414,647 are
colonial born.
Education.— Dalhousie College, at Halifax, is the
chief institution of the province, Acadia College, at
Horton, is connected with the Baptist denomination ;
King's College, at Windsor, is in connection with the
Church of England. The Normal School is at Truro.
The public schools are free. The number of public
schools in operation last year was 1943, with 2011
teachers and 81,863 pupils, or 1 in 5 of the population.
HALIFAX.
The drum-beat of Britain, which, to adapt the elo-
quent words of Daniel Webster, once followed the
morning round the world, ceases its proud roll at this
city — the portal of the Dominion of Canada. For here
is the last English garrison upon the Western Conti-
nent — kept here, we are carefully assured, not out of
regard for any antiquated colonial prejudices, but
solely because of the importance of Halifax to Eng-
land as a naval station and a coaling depot. Let the
English visitor, then, listen to the morning drum-beat
and take a last look at the uniform of his country's
soldiers, for he will not hear the one or see the other
29
again, if he follows the morning for very many
thouwands of miles, acroBw the continent, and over the
broad southern ocean, until he arrives at the island of
Hong-Kong. At Halifax, however, he will bo thor-
oughly at home. From the citadel, as on the (Queen's
ships of war in the harbour, the British tlag still flies
without the escutcheon of the younger Britain embla-
zoned upon it. The familiar uniforms will be seen on
the streets and on the wharves. The people will not
seem strange, and if, as is fre(iuently the case, that
favorite llaligonian dissipation, a regatta, is going on,
he will see that, though colonial born, they have all
the nautical instincts of the British i-ace.
The city of Halifax was founded in 17-49. It was
the first permanent settlement of Englishmen in Nova
Scotia; for, although there had been an English gov-
ernor and an English garrison at Annapolis since
1*713, and English fishermen frequented the coast and
assembled in the harbours, there had been no serious
attempt to colonise the country. The seat of govern-
ment was then transferred to Halifax, and Governor
Cornwallis. who came out in command with the first
settlers, again called upon the Acadians to take the
oath of allegiance to the British Government. The
Acadians were very uneasy at the ai-rival of the Eng-
lish, and their deputies brought to Cornwallis an
address, from 1000 persons, containing this very
remarkable sentence, " What causes us all very great
" pain, is the fact that the English wish to live
" a'mongst us. This is the general sentiment of the
" undersigned inhabitants." Seeing that the province
had been an English possession for thirty-six yeai's,
such a sentiment, expressed to a British governoj', did
not promise a peaceful time for the new settlers. The
Indians fully sympathised with the Acadians, and, as
the English settlements spread along the coast to
Lunenburg and Liverpool, the tomahawks and scalp-
ing knives of the savages found constant employment,
thus provoking an exasperation which resulted in the
Acadian v. jportation and the punishment of the inno-
cent with the guilty among the French inhabitants.
During the war which followed, Halifax grew
rapidly. Here Wolfe's fleet assembled for the subju-
gation of Louisburg and for the capture of Quebec.
Then followed the American revolution, and troops
and war-ships crowded the streets and harbour.
When Howe was compelled to evacuate Boston in
17*76 it was to Halifax he retired. His fleet and
army made the little town very lively for a while.
30
Diirin<;- the war of 1812-15 Halifax wan again a contro
of naval activity and, until recently, there were old
rowidents who could remornbor the excitement when
the Shannon towed the Chesapeake into the harbour
as a ])ri/e, and broke the Kpell of huccohs which
Bccmod until then to attend the United Statew navy.
Such times as these have happily passed away ; but
the dockyard, and the forts, and the citadel tell of the
former years of bitterness and warfare.
The population of Halifax, inclusive of Dartmouth,
is 40,340. It is essentially a maritime and commer-
cial city, doing a large trade in the export mainly of
products of the fisheries, of gypsum, coal, and lum-
ber, and carrying on, by the ships owned there, a con-
siderable foreign trade. In the year ending June,
1883, the imports were $t,20G,885 and the exports
$5,002,929. Since the completion of the Intercolonial
Bailway it has become the winter port of the Domi-
nion. Manufactures are now springing up and, lately,
a large sugar refinery has been established there. The
city contains a large proportion of wealthy people.
It is not so progressive as some of the other cities of
the Dominion, for the fact of its being so important a
military and naval station in past years has not been
an unmixed advantage. Large expenditures for mili-
tary purposes do not confer the lasting benefits which
permanent productive investments, and the attention
of youth is apt to be drawn away fi'om commercial
enterprise.
The harbour is justly celebrated for its safety and
commodiousness. Lying close to the great ocean
highway, between Europe and America, it is admir-
ably adapted for a port of call or a port of refuge. The
inlet extends fifteen miles into the land. In front oi the
town the harbour is one mile across, and, beyond the
narrows, Bedford Basin expands into a sheet of water
ten square miles in extent where the lai-gest ship may
lie close to the shore. There is no bar at the mouth
of the harbour. The average depth of water is eight
to ten fathoms, and in its very shoalest part it is 24
feet deep at low water. The tide rises six feet, and
the largest vessels can lie afloat at the wharves. It is
accessible at all seasons of the year. The Cunard
line, the first line of oceao steamers, was projected by
a Haligonian, Sir Samuel Qunard, and here all the
steamers touched during the early years of the enter-
prise. Regular lines of steamers sail for Bermuda
and St. Thomas, connecting at the latter port with all
the West Indian lines. Steamships of the Allan line
31
^nri
for Liverpool and St. .Tolin's, Newfoundland, call here
en route for Jialtini; ro, Md., and Norfolk', V^a. The
Anchor lino connects with St. John, N. F., and (jlhis-
fow. Tiien there are steamers for Boston and New
"orlv ; for Sydney, Cape Breton ; Canseau, N.S. ; and
Charlottotovvn, P.JO.l.
The entrance to Halifax harhour upon a clear day
is very striking. On the right is McNab's Island, and
beyond it the eastern passage, not available for largo
vessels, guarded b}' Fort Clarence on the Dartmouth
shore; on the left is a bold shore surmounted by
York redoubt and the telegraph station. Then Point
Pleasant with its charming park, the seaward point of
the peninsula upon which the city is built, is seen in
front. To the left of it runs the north-west arm and
to the right is the harbour, with George's Island
armed to the teeth in the centre of it, raking the
entrance. Above the city, which is built upon a rocky
declivity sloping somewhat steeply dov^n to the
water's edge, is the citadel. Far up the harbour are
the Narrows hiding the beautiful Bedford Basin,
which suddenly expands its ti-anquil surface, securely
land-locked and deep enough for men-of-war close to
its shores.
Visitors from the United States always inspect the
citadel ; from the old world, where citadels are plen-
tiful, visitors are not so curious in that direction. The
view, however, from the cita;lol, taking in as it does
all the environs of Halifax, is well worth the attention
of strangers. A drive round by the park at Point
Pleasant and along the Northwest Arm should be
taken. This is one of tho most picturesque sheets of
water in the Dominion. The villas on its shore and
Melville island in a pretty bay at the head add to the
general effect and make the drive very enjoyable.
Halifax is full of memories of the Duke of Kent,
father of Queen Victoria. The Prince's lodge on
Bedfoj'd Basin, though sadly dilapidated, is still
pointed out ; and he it was who laid the first stone of
the citadel. The town is resonant with military and
naval names ; the Queen's Dockyard, the Admiral's
House, the Artillery Barracks, the Ordnance Wharf,
the Wellington Barracks, and the foi'ts which protect
the harbour give a martial character to Halifax which
no other Canadian city besides Quebec possesses — but
we can never forget that in Quebec the morning
drum-beat of the Imperial isle is heard no more.
Dalhousie University is an important institution. It
is unconnected with any religious body. There are
'
32
seven profosHOTH in the faculty of urtu unci tliirtoon in
that of medicine.
The Province Building is a handsonio building' con-
tjiinin^ the chunilK'rs of the LegiHljituro, the libnuy
and the arciuves of the I*rovince. The new Provin-
cial liuildiiii^ containn a museum where may be found
a valuable colloetioM to iUustrate the roHoui'ces and
natural history of the Province. Tho Post Ottico is in
the same building.
lEalifax abounds in charitable institutions of all
kinds and in churches, notable among which are St.
Paul's church and St. Mary's cathctlral. Here also
are the seats of the Anglican Bishop and tho Eoman
Archbishop of the Province.
Among the sights of Halifax mu:it be counted the
Fish Market, where an idea of tho wealth of tho
Nova Scotia tlsherios can bo formed.
Beautiful drives and walks abound at Halifax. The
Public (rardens on Spring Garden road are very well
kept and are a pleasant refuge in summer from the
heat. The Park at Point Pleasant possesses a singu-
larly attractive site. The old Martello tower is a
picturesque object.
Hotels.— The chief is tho Halifax hotel in Hollis
street. Near it is the International hotel. Tho
Waverley hotel is an exceedingly good semi-i^rivate
hotel but it is not large. It is very pleasantly
situated.
Clubs. — The Halifax Club has a very well appointed
club-house on Hollis street.
EXCURSIONS.
From Halifax by railway the traveller may proceed
in four directions. 1st. To Windsor on the Basin of
Minas, and down the Annapolis river to Yarmouth on
the south-west ; 2nd. To Truro, and thence to Pictou
on Northumberland Strait, whence he may cross to
Prince Edward Island ; 3rd. By the same route as far
as New Glasgow, whence he may branch off, on the
Eastern Extension Road, to the Gut of Canso, en route
for Cape Breton; or 4th. Directly along the main line
of the Intercolonial through New Brunswick to Que-
33
bcc. On tliis route ho rniiy <livoix« hI MoncLon to
St John.
TO YARMOUTH VIA WINDSOR.
The tniinw of tho Windwor and AnnupoliH liailvvay
leave tho Intercolonial Kailway Dopot. Thiw line
commoncoti properly at Windsor .function where tho
traveller will see for a little tlintnnce a piece of
country, tho hump of X(>va Scotia, which will ^ivo
an idea of what the world mi^ht have looked like alter
Home great wash-out in primoi-dial times. After
ten miles of such land the country improves a little
and the train passes near tho Uniacke gold mines.
At Newport largo (quarries of gypsum exist, and
the annual export hence, mainly to the United States,
is the chief business of the inhabitants. At last,
after an uninteresting drive of 45 miles, tho ti-avellor
arrives at
Windsor, a town of 3,019 inhabitants u[)on the Avon
river. This is a beautiful place, or the contrary, ac-
cording to the state of the tide ; for hero tho visitor
will meet the remarkable tides of tho Bay of Fundy.
He will have, if the tide is out, a thoroughly satisfy-
ing view of an amazing area of red fertilizing slime;
and, if the tide is in, he will see one of the prettiest
pieces of water in the country. He will realise here
with Charles Dudley Warner how important water is
in the make up of a river.
Still Windsor is a pretty town and tho country
around it is fertile. It exports also much fertility to
other soils in the gypsum which abounds in the
neighbourhood. Here was born, and here died, .fudge
Haliburton, better known as '' Sam Slick tho Clock-
maker," the author of many humorous books. Hero
is situated the first college founded in tho Province —
King's College, with six professors, founded in 1788,
under the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
The professors must belong to the Anglican Church
but no religious tests are required of the students.
The country around Windsor was settled very early
by the French, but after the Acadian deportation
their vacant lands were filled up by a population from
Massachusetts and Ehode Island. Immediately around
Windsor the land was granted to British officers and
fortifications were erected which have crumbled away.
After leaving Windsor the train crosses the Avon
upon a bridge, very costly on account of the stupend-
.h
S4
ouH ti«loM of the river. For houw diMlancc tl»o bunk of
tho Avon is fol lowed through u ricli count ly uhound-
ing in gypMUni and froontono. Falinoiitli and Jlantn-
j)ort ai'e pi-OHporouH villa^oH wlioro Hhipl)uilding in
carried on to u conHidorahle extent. Atter paMwing
Horton tho train cru.sHOH tho GuHporoaux river and
nrrivoH at
Grand Pre.— This is tiie ( hiHsie hind of Kvangolino —
" In tho A(;adian land, on tho Hhoro8 of tho Bauin of Minan,
Distant, sochKUvl, Htill, tho li»tlc villaj^c of (Jrand Vr6
Lay in tho fruitful valloy. Vast h^oadows wtrotchod to tlie
eastward,
Giving tho villago its namo, and pasturo to flocks without
nund)or.
Dykes, that tho hands of tho farmers had raised with
lahour in(!OSHant,
Shut out tho turbulent tides, but at certain seasons tho
flood-gates
Opened, and weUroniod the sea to wander at will o'er the
meadows.
West and south there wore fields of flax, and orchards, and
cornfields
Spreading afar an<l unfonced o'er the plain, and away to
the northward
Blomidon rose."
Tho traveller may now verify the accuracy of the
word-painting.
THE ACADIANS.
Tho object of the Poet'w .^rt is not ho much to relate
the exact truth as to tell a touching and beautiful
story. Mr. Longfellow's " Evangeline " Ih an illustra-
tion of Bacon'8 adage that " the mixture of a lie doth
always add pleasure." And so ^he dealings of the
British Government with the Acadians have been exhi-
bited to the world as a wanton and utterly unjustifi-
able outrage. To those Nova Scotians, of English
descent, who have heard at their grandmothers' knee
the story of the first settlers at Halifax and Dart-
mouth, the matter appears in a totally ditterent light,
as a stern and bitter necessity of a cruel war. Into
this question we cannot enter, tempting though it be,
and we would refer those who may wish to follow it
up, to a volume published by the Nova Scotia Govern-
ment in 1869. It is entitled " Selections from the
Public Documents of the Province of Nova Scotia,"
by Thomas B. Aikens. In this excellently edited
volume the documents themselves are allowed to tell
35
the Htoiy. Tho iioIoh uro fuw and moroly oxplanu-
tory — mostly l»io^ru]»lii('al. Tho poi'in ot " Evani^c-
lino " in, hovvovor, a vdvy l)eaiitit'iil one, and tlio dos-
oi'iptionH of'Hconory aiv tnioto naturo. Tlio A<'adianH
woro vory dcoj)ly attacliod to i\w soil of Nova Scotia,
and many who wore oxi)atrhitod ivlurni'd after their
wa«jderingH. Some of them Hottled in (iaspe, in
<Jana(hi. The H0ttU>r8 wIjo cumo fi'om rnince to
Caruuhi woi-e mostly Xorman or Hi-oton ; hut the
Acadians were from the soiith-wesl — froni Saintonge,
llocholle and adjacent nlacos. In 1711' there were
about 500 families in tne province. In 1755 there
were probably 8000 or DOOO Acadian Krench, of whom
not more than 3000 were expatriated by the Jiritish
(rovornmont. At present there are in Nova Scotia
41,219, in New Brunswick 50,635, and in Prince
I^^lward island 10,751 persons of French descent.
They form a most valuable ])ortion of the population.
Cheerful, contented, polite, and laborious, they are
everywhere resj)ected. They do not intermarry wi^lj
the English, and, at some places such as Chezzetcook,
they had until lately retainetl the peculiar dress of the
peasantry of Old Franco. A study of some of these
settlements, in tho middle of an English community but
with curd and notary of the old days and with man-
ners, customs and roligioii so ditt'erent, is interesting to
a speculative politician. There is iK^thing in conser-
vatism like it on this continent. Tho Acadians wore
strongly attached to the lioman Catholic Church, as
they still are. They came of the same stock which, as
Huguenots, so obstinately resisted the dragonnades of
Louis XIV. But no question of religion caused the
deportation by the English, for the Acadians enjoyed
the most absolute freedom of worship. It was not in
Acadia as in Canada. There were no schools nor col-
leges of any kind, and the people were vory ignorant
and entiioly in the hands of their political loaders.
Many of them were peaceable and harmless, but many
would not even sell supplies to the English. At Grand
Prd 1900 persons were collected by Colonel Winslow,
a Massachusetts officer, who was in command. He
burned the village — houses and barns, church and
grist mills — and broke down the dykes. The troops
on this service were all Massachusetts men of hard
Puritan stock. They belonged to a regiment raised
for special service in America; The men of the Aca-
dians were collected separately and ordered to embark.
This they refused to do without their families, but
they were driven on board at the point of the bayonet
in the night ot' the wccpintij women and children.
The women antl children followed in othci' ti-anHportn,
and no care was taken that the families should be re
united. For this there could be no pretext of excuse.
That was in 1755. Twenty years later and the
whole family of Winslow were hunted out of Massa-
chusetts. Proscribed royalists, they shared the fate of
the Acadian loyalists. Theii* own property was con-
fiscated or destroyed, and they had to make new homes
upon the rocky shores of the St. .lohn. The Winslow
stock was the oldest and staunchest of the original
Plymouth Eock settlement and had filled the highest
offices in the Commonwealth. Many of them were
rewarded by the British Government with grants and
some with pensions, but the poor Acadians, scattered
homeless and penniless through the English coloniee
among a race of alien tongue, found no sympathy
from their heartless monarch or his frholous cour-
tiers. Every American loyalist had in King Geoi'ge
III. a personal, sympathetic friend. If any one in the
American colonies is at any time heard to speak
slightingly of King George, he will turn out not to be
colonial born.
Wolfville. — After leaving Grand Pr^ the train passes
through Wolfville, where is situated the University of
Acadia College, founded and supported by the Baptist
denomination. Then the valley of the Cornwalli^
Eiver is reached through a beautiful country. From
Windsor, up the Cornwallis and dowm the Annapolis
valleys, is the garden of Nova Scotia — rich in soil and
mild in climate. The road now continues in the
depression between the South and North Mountains,
referred to elsewhere. At Kentville is a flourishing
town of 3000 inhabitants, and a succession of pretty
villages is passed until Bridgetown, on the Annapolis
Eiver, is reached, which is a place of some importance
as the head of steamboat navigation on the river. If
the tide is out the tourist will not see any river. The
water may be away down the bay, but it will come
and make the valley look charming in its setting of
parallel, hilly ranges ; and, what is better, will float
any vessels which may be sitting up waiting for it.
One of the oddest sights to a stranger is to see a little
steamer sitting up in the mud, blowing off steam and
whistling with haste to get her freight aboard, as if
she were going straightway overland, while there i&
not water enough to float a chip. But in five minutes
'up it comes, and whu i.s ott'. PasHin*^ down tlio left
bank of the river the train arrives at
Annapolis, the ancient and venerable capital of Aca-
dia — the oldest town [north of Florida] in America,
and it would be difficult to find one pi-ettiei*. The
beauty and security of the situation struck the eye
of Champlain — the clearest-headed Frenchman who
evei' trod the shores of the New World. It is the
quietest, the most restful place which can be ima-
gined — a very sanatorium for a shattered nervous
system — quietei* now than even 150 years ago when
there was a garrison, sometimes French and some-
times English ; and when the English were always
buj-ning out the French, excepting when the Frencli
were entrapping the English and the Micmacs were
> scalping them — quieter even than in the winter of
160(J-07, when the clever, light-hearted Parisian law-
yer, Lescarbot, and the Bai'on de Poutrincourt, and
Hubert, the apothecary, who represented science, and
Champlain, who organised the '■'■ ordre de hon temps,''
^nd their friends. Catholic and Huguenot, had such an
■excellent time in this Acadian "Forest of Arden."
'There was no scurvy thei-e, for game was abundant,
and the lively Frenchmen exhausted their culinary
skill ujion it — before the Cavaliers had founded James-
town oi" the Puritan Fathers had set up their ecclesi-
astical tyranny, called by a vivid metaphor a " tneo-
■cracy," at Salem. Then was "le bon vieix temps" of
Henry lY., before the revocation of the Edict of
Nantes had set Frenchmen at each others' throats in
.France. In Acadia, as in Canada, no man was ever
molested in the name of religion. It was not quite
upon the site of the town, however, that the first fort
was built ; it W' as on the opposite side, a little further
•down the Basin.
The town of Annapolis Eoyal contains 2,833 inhabi-
tants. It is almost surrounded by water, for it is
^uilt on a peninsula projecting into the basin which
iies tranquil among the hills protected from all winds.
'The water is deep and the shores bold. The North
Mountain range protects it from the fog and wind of
the Bay of Fundy, and the opposing range protects it
■on the east. The fortifications still remain, picturesque
--and ruinous. Far up the valley are seen the dyked
meadow-lands of the Acadians, and down, towards the
«outh, the high lands round Digby are hazy in the
•<iistance.
The railway ends at Annapolis. It is to be contin-
m
38
ued round the Basin, 20 miles, to meet the Western-
Counties Eailwuy at Digby, but meantime the travel-
ler must take the steamer which makes a daily trip to
that town. From Annapolis there is a regular steamer
leaving for St. John, New Brunswick, upon alternate^
days (distance 45 miles). It is a very pleasant route..
A weekly steamer leaves also for Boston. The short
trip down the Basin is enjoyable.
^S^y'~A town of 1,879 inhabitants, occupying a
pictiires(|ue site opposite Digby Gut, which is the
name of the naiTOW opening in the precipitous trap
cliffs through which the tides rush in and out from-
the Bay of Fundy. It is a favourite summer resort,,
being free from fog and sheltered by the hills. This^
town has given its name to the celebrated Digby
herrings.
The Western Counties Railway to Yarmouth luns
along the coast of St. Mary's Bay through the town-
ship of Clare. This township is settled by Acadians
who returned after their exile, and, finding their old
locations on the Basin of Minas occupied, took up land
here. It is a most characteristic community. Long-
fellow's description, in " Evangeline," will apply to
them to-day as fully as it does to the Acadians of 120'
years ago. This unchangeable conservatism is a phe-
nomenon in the western world. After a run of 67
miles the train arrives at Yarmouth— the jumping-off
place of Nova Scotia. The interior of the country is
a hunting and fishing region — wild and studded with>
lakes. It is broken and unfit for farming.
Yarmouth is a city of 6,200 inhabitants — the most
maritime town perhaps in the world ; for it is doubt-
ful whether a single person can be found there who is
not, directly or indirectly, interested in a vessel. The
instinct for maritime enterprise here amounts to genius,
for, though the harbour is poor, the soil rocky and
sterile, and there is no back country to depend upon,,
the people are rich and thriving by their foreign com-
merce. The tonnage owned in this small place amounts
to 118,922 tons. There are 3,469 persons who are-
owners of shipping. Retired sea captains find here a
paradise, for the proximity of the Gulf stream makes
the weather very changeable, and speculation uponi
that subject is always in order.
f
30
•
FROM HALIFAX TO TICTOU
Travellers take the Intercolonial Eailway, and at
Truro the Pictou branch diverges from the main line.
If all parts of Nova Scotia were as charming as the
North West Arm or the Annapolis valley the effect
would be too monotonous, and so, in going to Flctou,
the aesthetic sense is allowed a short period of repose.
There is nothing specially to remark upon until the
train arrives at
Stellarton, forty miles from Truro. The Albion coal
mines are reached at this station. The population of
the place is 1,881, all connected in someway with the
mines. Two miles further on is
New Olasgow. Population 2,595 — engaged in manu-
facturing and shipbuilding. A Siemens' furnace, be-
longing to the Nova Scotia Steel Company, is at
work here making steel plates. There are also rolling
mills and glass-works. The Nova Scotia Eailway
(formerly the Halifax and Cape Breton Eailway)
branches off here for Antigonish and the Gut of
Canso. The train now continues along the East river
(8 miles) until Pictou Landing is reached, from
whence by ferry the traveller crosses to the opposite
side of the harbour to the town of
Pictou. Population 3,403, is situated upon an inlet of
Northumberland Strait into which three rivers — the
East, the Middle, and the West rivers fall. It has by
far the best harbour on the northern shore of Nova
Scotia, sheltered and commodious — from five to nine
fathoms deep and with 20 feet of water over the bar
at low tide. Unlike the harbours of Halifax and St.
John it freezes over in the winter. The coast is low,
but the scenery up the valleys of the rivers is pretty,
and the bathing on the beaches is good. There is
much good farming land in the vicinity but, as the
meadow lands on the opposite coast of the Province,
were more inviting, the French never made any
settlement here. It wag first settled in 1767 by six
families from Philadelphia, but the immigration which
stamped a peculiar character on this part of the Prov-
ince was the band of Highland Scotch which arrived
in 1773. They landed in full highland array in kilts
and with bagpipes in full blast. Never had the like
been heard in Acadia. The Micmacs, who had pre-
viously been hanging round for scalps, fled, terror-
struck at the sound, and from thenceforth gave no
I
40
trouble to the settlers in those part«. Tlie " medicine
of the bag-pipe subdued them. The immigratiou
continued from Scotland and the great majoi-ity of
the people are Scotch and Presbyterian. This ener-
getic stock has made Pictou county one of the most
productive farming counties in Nova Scotia. The
town has made great pi'ogress in manufacturing, and
does a coasting trade by vessels built and owned
there. Education is very carefully looked after, and
with academy and schools and museum, and library
and newspapers, the people of Pictou are admirably
provided with educational facilities.
Steamers leave Pictou regularly for Charlottetown,
P.E.I., for Port Hood in Cape Breton, and for the
Magdalen Islands, The Gulf Port line of steamers to
Quebec leave from here, touching at all the principal
ports in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Pictou is, how-
ever, chiefly remarkable as the outlet of one of the
most important coal fields of Nova Scotia.
Pictou Coal Mines.— These mines first began to be
worked in the year 180*7. As explained elsewhere, in
1825 all the mines in the Province passed into the
hands of the General Mining Association of London,
which commenced in 1827 to raise coal on a large
scale and with scientific appliances. This monopoly
continued until 1856, when the Company abandoned
all their claims and were allowed to select four square
miles where they pleased. They chose the locality
known as the Albion Mines at Stellarton, and event-
ually sold out to a new company called the Halifax
Company.
The area of the coal field at Pictou is 35 miles, but
the beds are so thick and so accessible that their
importance is out of proportion to the area. At the
Albion Mines there is a section of 2,450 feet of coal
measures holding 100 feet of coal. The thickness of
the seams of tlje lower group are as follows in order
of depth :— 34 ft. 7 in., 22 ft. 11 in., 5 ft. T in., 3 ft.
6 in., 3 ft. 3 in., 12 ft., 5 ft., 11 ft., 10 ft. There are
sixteen seams known but these are the chief. It is
the main seam of 34 feet which is generally worked.
The total sales of coals last year from the Pictou
mines were 461,809 tons, of which 260,980 tons were
consumed in the Dominion.
<k
h
,
NEW OLASOOW TO THE GUT OP OANSO.
This is the usual route to Cape Breton. A train
leaves New Glasgow on the arrival of the train from
1
'■)■
\
41
ilulif'ax. The country Is uninteresting, and hay been
only recently cleared. At Merigomisli are niinos of
coal and Iron. Forty-one miles from New Glasgow is
Antigonish, a thriving town of 3,500 inhabitants,
nearly all Highland Scotch in nationality and lioman
Catholic in religion. Here the tourist may enjoy the
novelty of hearing sermons in Gaelic from the cathe-
dral i)ul])it. Many of the older people speak no other
language. Tall, strong people they are, and their vil-
lage is one of the pi-ettiest in Eastern Nova Scotia.
The streets are clean and planted with shade-trees.
The houses are tidy and bright. This town is a
bishop's see, and all the saints who have it under
charge are good old Scotch saints, without any Saxon
mixture — St. Ninian, St. Columba and St. Margaret,
Queen of Scotland. The large college is named after
St. T^iancis Xavier, jierhaps because the older saints
were not so strong in scholarship as in the moi'e use-
ful arts of clearing up land and reducing a wilderness
to order and civilization. The country around is an
unfailing resort for hunting and fishing. The high
land of Antigonish Mountain gives it variety. The
harbour is shallow and at a distance from the village.
Cattle, butter and gypsum are exported from this
place. The road continues on through a thinly settled
country to
Tracadie, an Acadian French village, situated in a
fertile district. There is a monastery of fifty Trappist
monks here, who are expert farmers. At 39 miles
from Antigonish is
Mulgrave Wharf, oh the Gut of Canso. Here is the
ferry to the Island of Cape Breton.
HALIFAX TO QUEBEC BY THE INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY.
For nine miles after leaving Halifax the railway-
skirts the shores of Bedford Basin. Completely land-
locked and hidden from any but the most careful
search it was, in old times, a noted haunt of bucca-
neers ; and, to this day, it would not surprise any resi-
dent on its shores if Ca2)t. Kidd's hidden treasure were
dug up. This treasure is in several other harbours
also on the coast. It is one of the myths cherished by
this otherwise i)ractical people. At Bedford the road
turns inward to
I.
42
Windsor Junction.— Here diverges the Windsor &
Annapolis Jvailway. At
Shubenacadie, the river of that name is reached. In
the early days of Halifax a canal was projected to
connect this river, which falls into the Basin of Minas,
with the Atlantic at Halifax. A very feasible scheme,
if the cost had been provided foi*, because of the many
intervening lakes ; but it fell through. To the east is
a broken country frequented by moose-hunters and
anglers. The road continues through a good farming
country, although from the cars it may seem rough,
until it reaches
Truro.— Iler*^ the branch for Pictou diverges. This
was an old Acadian settlement, and the dykes in the
meadows date from the French times. It is the centre
of a rich district, and possesses the attraction of being
an educational centre as well, for the Provincial,
Normal and Model schools are hei-e. There are also
many manufactures carried on, and these, added to
the exceeding beauty of the site, make Truro the most
important place after Ilalifax in the province. The
town has a population of 3,463. It is situated at the
head of Cobequid Bay, a pai-t of the Basin of Minas.
It is 62 miles from Halifax.
After leaving Truro the train begins the ascent of
the Cobequid Mountains, following up the valley of
the Folly liiver, which it crosses on a viaduct 600 feet
long and 82 feet above the river, until the summit is
reached at Folly Lake, 607 feet above the sea. At
•
Londonderry is a railway to the Acadia Iron Mines,
where are situated the works of the Canada Steel
Company, who have blast furnaces at work and who
manufacture jjig-iron, sheet-iron aud nail-plates ; also
railway axles and wheels. There are several varieties
of ore found, but that worked is chiefly limonite.
From this point to
Folly Lake, or Foileigh (if there is time to spell it so),
are the heaviest grades of the line. Long snow-sheds
testify to the severe winter storms upon the moun-
tains. The rock cuttings and the curves are numer-
ous, but many glimpses of picturesque scenery may be
had fi'om the train. The Cobequid Mountains are 100^
miles long and 10 miles wide. They rise to a height
of 1,100 feet. The train now descends the northern
slope. At
43
Springhill Junction bninchos ott' tho road of the Cum-
berland Coal and llaihvay Company to PaiTHboro', on
the Hasin of Minan. The minew are dintant about
five milen from the Intercolonial Railway. Three
separate seamH are being worked, and the prewent out-
put is 1,200 tons a day. In the yeai' 1883 the total
output was 200,000 tons. The operations of the com-
pany have of late been largely extended. The three
seams now being worked are of 13 feet, 11 feet and 11
feet respectively. In a width of 1,018 feet there are
eight seams and an aggregate thickness of 62 feet of
good workable coal. The analysis of the 13-foot seam
is as follows : — Carbon, 78.51 ; hydrogen, 5*19 ; oxygen
and nitrogen, 5.98 ; sulphur, 1'12 ; ash, 5-20. The coal
used on the Intercolonial Eailway is from this mine.
The owners ai'e enlarging the Avorks so as to attain
an output ot 2,000 tons a day. The area of the
Cumberland coal field is 300 square miles.
From this point an excursion can be made to visit
the celebrated Joggins section of the carboniferous
series of rocks. The railway runs from Springhill
Station to Parrsboro', on the Basin of Minas. There a
party could easily arrange for a steamer to go along
the coast, and the Intercolonial Ilailway could be
reached again at Amherst without turning back upon
the route to Quebec. '^^
The South Joggins.— Sir Charles Lyell says the finest
examj^le in the world of a succession of fossil forests
of the Carboniferous period laid open to view on a
natural section, is that seen on the lofty cliffs called
the South Joggins, bordei'ing the Chiegnecto channel.
Sir Charles visited them twice. They are abundantly
illustrated in all his works and in Pr. Dawson's Aca-
dian Geology. There is a continuous exposed section
ten miles in length. Sir Charles counted nineteen
seams of coal and he sa\v seventeen trees in an upright
position, chiefly Sigillaria^ occurring at ten distinct
levels, one above the other. The usual height of the
trees was six to eight feet, but one trunk was twenty-
live feet high. The action of the tides exposes new
fossil trees from year to year and a continuous interest
thus attaches to the locality.
The whole ground is
* The Halifax Local Committee, with the kind assistance of Mr. R.
Leckie, of the Cumberland Coal Company, will endeavour to arrange for
an excursion to the Joggins, some time m August, should a sufncient
number of members be able to join in it. The route will be by railway
from Springhill to Parrsboro', and from thence along the coast by steamer
to Amherst, where the Intercolonial Railway is again reached and the
journey towards Quebec resumed.
li
44
clas.sif to geological Hcieiico ; and it would bo an
unpardonable in a geologist to omit a visit to the
South Joggins as for an Egyptologist to go to Caii-o
without seeing the PyramidH.
Farrsboro', the terminus of the bi-anch road, is a
beautiful place. The scenery is most diversitied. In
the I'ear is the bold mountain country and to the south
east is the Basin of Minas, bordered with beautiful
meadows, and set in a distant cii'cle of hills. Opposite
is the bold clitf of Cape Blomidon, the northern end of
the barrier of trap rock which skirts the western shore
of Nova Scotia — columnar trap resting on new red
sandstone, itself worth a visit. Then the bold points
of Cape Split and Cape d'Or — all contributing to form
in one locality a total of geological attractions un-
■equalled in the world.
Eeturning to the Intercolonial route ; after leaving
Springhill the train passes one station and arrives at
Maccan.— From this point stages run to the Chieg-
necto coal mines and to the South Joggins. Travel-
lers who wish to visit these places may reach them
conveniently fj-om this point. This is the usual point
of stoppage for that purpose when a party is not made
made ujd. Eight miles further is
Amherst —A flourishing town of 4,457 inhabitants,
depending upon a rich farming country for its trade.
The tourist who is fond of colonial history stops hei-e
to visit the ruins of Fort Cumberland and trace out
the localities of many deeds of daring in the old days
of struggle in the French and Indian wars.
Five miles after leaving Amherst the train crosses
the little river Missiguash, the boundary between
Nova Scotia and New Brunswick — a little stream very
important in old colonial history and about which the
French and English wrangled for thirty years. At
the treaty of Utrecht, France ceded to England " that
all Nova Scotia or Acadia comprehended within its
ancient boundaries." The English expected and
claimed L'Acadie as known in the French maps and
books ; but the French insisted that the peninsula of
Nova Scotia alone was meant, and claimed this little
river as the boundary of Canada. Commissioners had
been appointed, under the treaty, to settle these
boundary questions ; but thej'- did nothing but pro-
duce documents and write memoirs, and, at last, in
lYSO, M. de la Jonqui^re, the new Governor of Cana-
4ft
(la, Hcnt down tho Chovalier do hi Oonio wltli a
(Ictsichmenl who arrived in time to prevent from
landing Major Lawrence, who had been sent witii a
detachment to occupy tho head of the Bay. La Corn©
informed Lawrence that tho MiMniguash was the
boundary, and, aw war had not been dcchired, Fiaw-
renco landed south of the river and HubHoquently Fort
Lawrence waH built by him at the village of Hoau-
bassin. The Abbd Laloutre, who waH the evil goiiiuH
of tho Acadians, set fire to tho church as the EngliHh
entered the village. He had comedown on hisomiMd
of mischief to lead the Acadians to their ruin, and ho
took this measure to force them to abandon their lands
on the Knglish side. La Corne erected Fort Beau-
s^jour on his side and from that point as a conti-e,
regardless of the reproaches of tho Bishop of Quebec,
the insubordinate and unscrupulous Laloutre car-
ried on his political plots until ho brought upon the
Aciulians their cruel fate. The ruins of these forts
still exist. Fort Beausejour was an important work
built for a garrison of 800 men and armed with 30-
guns. The PVonch had a continuous chain of forts
from here to the St. John river. The English main-
tained a garrison of 600 men at Fort Lawrence until
1755, when they captured Fort Beausejour. A few
miles further on, the railway crosses a wide extent of
rich mai'sh-land which, fertilized by the muddy tides
of the Bay, produces enormous crops of hay. The fi rst
important station in Now Brunswick is
• Sackville.— This is a town of 4,882 inhabitants. Mount
Alison College, a Wesleyan institution, with 200 stu-
dents, is one of tho most important educational estab-
lishments in the Province. Near here will be the
outlet of the Bay Verte Canal, projected only as yet,
to unite the Bay of P'undy with the Gulf of St. Law-
rence. When it is remembered that the tides in the
Gulf are ordinary ocean tides while those of the Bay
rise sixty feet, the difficulty of the undertaking will
suggest itself. A railway to Cape Tormentine, to con-
nect with a short ferry across Northumberland Straits,
is nearly completed. The next station is Dorchester,
an important town. Then follows
Memramcook— containing the large Eoman Catholic
College of St. Joseph, with 100 students, among a
flourishing population of over 1,000 Acadian French..
The next station is
46
Fainseo Junction.— Trom horo tlio tourist may i^o to
St. John, to Quoboc, or to Shodiuc*. At Shediuc tho
Gulf PortH HtoamerH call, connecting with Pictou, N.
S., with Mirauiichi and the Bay Chaleur portH, and
with (^iioboc. There in alHO a daily Hteamer to Prince
Edward Island. The next station is
Moncton.— ThiH is the centre of the Intercolonial
Railway system. It contains 5,032 inhabitants. A
sugar retinory and a cotton mill with other factories
are located here. These and the machine-shops of the
railway are the life of the town. This is the place to
witness the great tidal wave of the Bay of Fundy. At
low tide nothing can be less interesting than the wide
expanse of sli])pory red mud with a little stream
trickling down, far off in the middle, which marks
the bed of the Petitcodiac river. The tide comes in
with a "bore," six feet high, and 8])oedily rises to
a height of seventy feet. Then, when the water comes,
and the vessels which wore lying over on their sides
are straightened up and the banks are full, the river is
a pretty sight enough ; although one is always afraid
that the water will suddenly run away again.
The tides of the Bay of Fundy are very remarkable.
The tidal wave sweeping along the American coast to
the north-east is caught in the broad funnel-shaped
entrance to the Bay and compressed. As the opposite
coasts draw together it increases in height and speed
all the way up to the remotest points of Chignecto
and Cobequid Bays. It attains a speed of six miles an
hour and a height of seventy feet. Into the narrows
of the estuaries it rushes with a "bore" or foaming
wave sweeping along with it a flood turbid with red
mud.
Fi'om Moncton the road passes through a very unin-
teresting country until the Miramichi is reached. The
coast is low and although large streams ai-e crossed
the road has been taken well inland to avoid bridging
them at their estuaries. The Richibucto is an import-
ant river with a flourishing town at its mouth. The
settlements are all upon the shore, and, although the
land is good, the country from the train seems unin-
viting. Land requires to he more than good to tempt
a New Brunswicker away from the charms of ships
and saw-logs. They are a maritime people and love
the water, of the sea first, and, failing that, of the
rivers. At Chatham Junction there is a branch road
to Chatham, but the main line goes to Newcastle,
where it crosses the
41
Miramaohi River, for tliore is no town oi- place called
l>y (liiM euphonious name. Miramiclii is a generic
name for the HottlementM upon the river. The roa<l
croHHOH the river ahovo the forlcH. The length of each
bridge is 1,200 feet. After crosninju: the noi-th-west
branch, the roud turnH otf the main line bv a Hidin
the
into Nowcustle. The two chief towns on the river ure
Newcantlo and Chatham, between whicii a very active
rivalry exists. Newcastle is a town of 4,201) inhabi-
tanttt, it is at the head of deep water navigation.
Chatham is the older settlement, it is on tiie opposite
(south) side of the river six miles lower down. It has
a population of 5,fi72. The business carried on is the
same at all the towns of this coast. Lumbering, ship-
building and Ashing. Canning lobsters and salmon is
an important industry.
The Miramichi Eiver is 225 miles long. It falls into
a wide bay — a very favourite fishing ground. The
low coast extends out in spits of sandy soil, densely
wooded. It was at Miramaohi Bay that Jacques
Cartier first landed on Canadian soil, and the locality
was a favourite one in early French times. In
1642 Basques were settled on the river, but they quar-
relled with the Indians and were succeeded by French.
An extensive concession was granted there to Nicho-
las Denys, Governor of Acadia, and he had his chief
post on the Miramichi, with forts at Miscou and on
the Gulf of Canseau. The first establishment at
Miscou was made in 1610.
This region became celebrated by the immense fire
which raged over it in 1825. Newcastle was destroyed
and a large number of the inhabitants ruined. Above
200 persons were supposed to have perished in the
flames. Such a fire was never known before nor since.
Over 8,000 square miles of forest were destroyed and
$1,000,000 worth of property. The fire swept rapidly
on, cracking and roaring along a blazing line of one
hundi-ed miles front. Many ran to the river and
plunged to the neck in the water. Others sought
refuge on rafts and logs. The roaring of the flames
— the screams of the perishing — the cries of the ani-
mals — the volumes of smoke and sparks contributed
to make up a scene of horroi* which no eye-witness
could ever forget. The lumber from this region was
exceedingly good. Masts and spars for the Eoyal
Navy were exported thence in large numbers.
Chatham is the seat of a Eoman Catholic bishop, and
a large pile of ecclesiastical buildings form a leading
feature of the town.
48
TI»o Mirairiichi in the ^'utowny to tlio s]n)rtHnmn'H.
nanuliHO — the toioHt wildcniesH of New HnmHwick..
From the fringe of Kettleineiit on the eonst to the St.
John Uivor oxtendH un immeiiHe unsettled tenitoiy
nermeated with HtreuinH and hiken, and everywhere,
Ly nhort jMU'ta^en, aecenBihle to li^ht hirch eanocs.
Beaver, inoose, carihoo, lynx, nahle, mink and bearH
inhabit this primitive wilderness, and the streams are
full of fish and abound with salmon in tlieir season.
The land in the valleyH, when eleare<l, is exeo<'dingly
good farming land.
After passing throe HtatiouH the train arrives nt
Bathunt, a tlourishing town of 4,80(5 inhabitants,
formerly ealled Ncpisiguit, a name still borne by one
of the four streams which fall into the basin. This
place was tirst settled by a Jiasque named lOnault, who
married an Indian woman, but, after clearing the land
and raising cattle and starting a fishing and lumber-
ing establishment, he was impolitic enough to have a
misunderstanding witli the lady's brothei*, who toma-
hawked him incontinently. There is a good business
done at Jiathurst, and the farmers around it are pros-
perous. The great falls of the Nepiseguit, 105 feet
high, are distant 25 miles. This is a good place for
boating, for bathing and for fishing. Altogether the
most desirable spot for summer sport along tlie coast.
Miscou Island, the extreme north part of the province,
was much dreaded in the adventurous old days before
science exploded all the monsters, because ^f a female
demon who resided there, up to whose w e mast
of a ship would scarcely reach, and w^ a pocket
a stray Indian or Frenchman for ai ..jnal meal ;
besides rendering the place unple^ u with terrific
roaring. Is it not so written in the books of the early
voyagers ?
But a demon worse than the Scylla of Miscou lurks
not far from here on the desolate sandy shore of Tra-
cadie — a demon who baffles the power of nineteenth
century science —
" The nightmare life in death is she
That thicks men's blood with cold " —
the demon of leprosy — the true leprosy of the white
shining spot and decaying limbs. Its origin is
obscure, but it would seem to have originated about
1758 when a Fi*ench vessel, which had been in the
Levant trade, was stranded near the Miramichi. The
V
41)
Hftiloi'H wore hoH|»ital)ly trcutod hy the poor fiHliormon,
iiiul nljoi'tly after tliis <lrt»M(lf'ul |»Ia«^uo apponrod.
Many died, and tho pcopU' tlod to othor placos alon^
the coaHt. In procoHs ot" time tlio dinoaHo appeared at
Caraquet, Tracadie and elnewhere, until, in 1H17, the
death of Mario Landry drew the attention of tho
government to the suhject. Hut it wan not until 1844
that a law waH enacted under which all the unfoi'tu-
nate lepei'H were eolli'ctrd at one place, Sheldrake
iHland, at the mouth of the Mii-amichi. From thence
tho ostahliHhment was moved to Tracadie. Everyone
found touched witli this fell (lisease was went there.
Forcihly Hoparated from IioUHe and home, from parent,
wife, or (diild, what horrihio an^uiwh must have torn
many a iieart on joining that loathsome band of
human beings in tho lazaretto? And for many years
they wore uncared for — objectH of terror to their
follow creatures — separated and accursed. At last, in
1858, application was made to the nuns of tho Ilotol-
Diou of Montreal. True spiritual daughters of Joanne
Manco, those devoted women feared nothing and
shrank from nothing. Thoy took charge of those
poor desolate souls, thov bi-ought oi'dor and cleanli-
ness into tho lazaretto, they separated the sexes, they
washed the bandages, they dressed the dropping limbs,
and kindly and patiently, without a shudder of disgust,
they laboui'od to solace these weary souls with the
consolations of religion as well as by tho kind offices
of the hospital. The lazaretto is under the care of a
superior and eight nuns. A visitor in 1S13 counted
23 patients, and it is beyond doubt that the disease is
disappearing. All the inmates are Fi'onch, and no
doubt the practice of continually marrying in and in,
necessary in such small and separated communities,
would intensify any disease which happened to take
root among them.
At Bathurst the traveller comes out upon the Bale
des Chaleur, so called by Jacques Cartier on account
of the excessive heat he experienced there. The road
now runs along the bay, which is 100 miles long, with
a breadth of 20 to 30 miles. Charlevoix says that in
the very earliest days it was called the "Baye des
Espagnols," probably from the Basques who fii'st
" exploited " its finny treasures.
Leaving Bathurst, the train crosses several large
streams and passes five stations until it reaches
Dalhonsie, a beautiful town of 2,353 inhabitants,
situated on a commanding point overlooking the
4
'U,
K
i
1 1
1
1
m
estuary of the Eestigouche Eiver. The harbour is
excellent. It was in this estuary that Admiral Byron,
in 1Y60, destroyed the French squadron which came
out too late to relieve Quebec. The next station is
Campbellton, on the Eestigouche River. Here the
traveller will take leave of Kew Brunswick, for that
river is the boundary of the Province of Quebec. It
is the head of navigation on the Bay Chaleur, and
here the steamers call from Quebec, Gasp^ and the
Bay Chaleur ports. It is very central fo^ shooting
excursions, is near many important salmon rivers,
and is pleasant for driving or boating, or sailing or
bathing. In short, it is a delightful summer resort,
abounding in beautiful scenery.
Leaving Camj^bellton the train follows up the Ees-
tigouche until opposite the mouth of the Metapedia,
when it crosses to follow the valley of the latter in its
course through the mountains. The Eestigouche is a
noble stream, broad and deep — famous for salmon ;
draining an area of 6,000 square miles, with bold
shores, and navigable for 130 miles further. It is
crossed by a skew bridge over 1,000 feet long. The
scenery at the junction of the river is ve^y pretty.
After crossing the bridge the train arrives at
Metapedia Station. — This is headquarters for salmon.
Here is Fi-aser's. What salmon-fisher has not heard
of him ? And there are pools known to that great
authority where guests, who cannot afford to lease a
whole river, may try their luck. The road follows up
the valley of the Metapedia to the summit of the
divide of the St. Lawrence. Several streams fall into
the Metapedia, notably the Assametquaghan and the
Oausapscal, and, as Fluellen would say, " there are sal-
mons in all " — for was it not at the mouth of the latter
euphoniously named river where H.E.H. the Princess
Louise caught the 40-lb. salmon ? No doubt the dinner
earned that day by the quick eye and steady hand of
the Eoyal lady surpassed the sumptuous feasts of
Kensington Palace, for camping out in the clear
mountain air, and exercise, and pretty scenery give a
sauce not to be had from Crosse & Blackwell. Here
also abideth the mosquito, no respecter of persons, a
creature whose providential function it is to dwell at
such places and become the one sole cause why the
better-disposed Americans do not take to the woods
permanently. The raison d'etre of this mean sneak of
a fly is to drive mankind into the thorny paths of
61
civilization. Tho winding river, with its hundreds of
rapids and falls ; the beauty of the phicid lake, which
is its source near the summit ; the abundance of fish ;
and iho wildness of the scenery make this region a
very paradise even if it be not quite cleared up. After
leaving the banks of Lake Metapedia the road still
risefi until Lake Malfait is reached, which is at the
summit, 750 feet above the St. Lawrence. Then tho
traveller will begin to see spread out before him the
sea-like expanses of the River St. Lawrence, his ears
will thenceforth be greeted with the sound of the
French tongue, and the names of the stations will com-
memorate so many saints that the Acta Sanctorum of
the Bollandists in 54 volumes folio, with a continuation
to date, would be required to enlighten an inquisitive
stranger as to their merits.
The remaining stations of the road, until Quebec is
reached, will be noticed in another place in the des-
cription of the Lower St. Lawrence.
Principal Dawson has prepared the following geo-
logical itinerary of the whole route, which could not
well be distributed over the topogi'aphical description.
NOTES ON THE GEOLOGY OP THE COUNTRY FROM
HALIFAX TO MONTREAL.
At Halifax the geologist lands on the quartzites and
slates of the Coast series or Gold series of Nova Scotia,
believed to be of Lower Cambrian age. In the vici-
nity of Halifax it contains auriferous quartz mines,
which are situated at Montagu and Waverley. At
North West Arm and other places may be seen gra-
nite, which traverses these beds as thick dykes or
intrusive masses, and produces contact metamorphism.
At Waverley Mine, the obscure fossils named Astropo-
lithon may be found in the quartzite.
At Windsor Junction, the branch to that place di-
verges (about forty miles). Windsor has excellent
exposures of the fossiliferous Lower Carboniferous
limestones, and of the great beds of gypsum, char-
acteristic of that formation in Nova Scotia.
Beyond Gay's River, the railway enters into the
carboniferous country, and in some places quarries in
the Lower Carboniferous limestone may be seen near
the road.
At and beyond Truro the railway traverses a por-
tion of the Triassic red saridstone of Cobequid Bay.
The sandstone may be seen in the cuttings, and the
red colour of the soil is characteristic.
62
In approaching the Cobequid Hills, a more broken
countiy and beds of grey sandstone and conglomerate
indicate the Carboniferous bedS; which here reappear
from under the red sandstone.
At Londonderjy Station the road enters on a belt
of highly inclined slates of olive-grey and dark col-
ours, which, at a little distance west of the line of
railway, contain the large and productive veins of iron
ore worked by the Steel Company of Canada. This
vein or aggregation of veins is primarily of car-
bonate of iron and ankerite, with some specular iron,
but has been changed in many places to a great depth
into limonite, which is the ore principally worked.
Beyond this place the slates are seen to be pierced
by great intrusive masses of red syenite p^A by dykes
of diorite and diabase. At Wentworth utation these
rocks are overlaid by dark-coloured shaly beds, holding
fossils of the age of the Clinton or older part of the
Upper Silurian. The grey slates holding the iron ore
are obviously of greater age than this, but how much
greater is uncertain. For reasons stated in "Acadian
Geology," they are regarded by Dr. Dawson as Lower
Silurian.
Crossing the Cobequid Hills, conglomerates are seen
belonging to the southern edge of the Cumberland
coal-field, on which the road now enters. At Spring-
hill Station is a branch road leading to the mines of
that name, the most important coal mines on the line
of this railway.
At Maccan Station conveyances may be had to the
celebrated South Joggins Section, on the shore of
Chiegnecto Bay, about 12 miles distant. To see this
satisfactorily, the geologist should lodge at the Joggins
Mines and spend two or three days on the shore.
Details of the section will be found in "Acadian
Geology."
From Maccan Station to Moncton the railway'' passes
over carboniferous rocks, mostly of the lower members
of that series. Near Dorchester there are good sec-
tions of the Millstone Grit formation, and at the Albert
Mines, Hillsboro', the remarkable bituminous shales of
the Lower Carboniferous, holding albertite and remains
of fishes. This part of the railway also passes over
some fine examples of the alluvial deposits of the Bay
of Fundy, more especially the great marshes of Amherst
and Sackville.
At Moncton, the railways from St. John on the one
hand and Shediac on the other join the main line. By
the first the traveller may visit the Huronian, Cam-
53
brian and Devonian rocks of St. John, and by the
second and steamers from Pointe du Chene, may reach
the Permian and Triassic rocks of Prince Edward
Island.
From Moncton to near Bathurst the railway passes
over the low Carboniferous plain of Northern New
Brunswick, showing scarcely anything of the under-
lying rocks.
Beyond Bathurst is the varied and interesting
country of the Bale des Chaleurs and the Eestigouche
and Metapedia Elvers, of which it is possible only to
note some of the more interesting featui-es.
By stopping over at Dalhousie or Campbellton, or
at the one place and proceeding to the other, the fol-
lowing localities may be visited : — At Cape Bon Ami,
near Dalhousie, is a fine section of Upper Silurian
shale and limestone, abounding in fossils, and alter-
nating with very thick beds of dark-coloured dolerite.
Apparently resting on these are beds of red porphyry
and breccia, forming the base of the Erian or Devonian
beds. On these, a little west of Campbellton, rest
agglomerate and shale, rich in remains of fishes
(Cephalaspis, Coccostevs, etc.,) and traversed by dykes
of trap. Immediately above these are conglomerates
and dark, hard shales, the latter full of remains of
Psilophyton and Arthrostigma, — and at a sandstone
quarry on the opposite side of the Eestigouche are
similar plants and great silicified trunks of Prototaocites.
All these beds are Lower Erian.
At Scaumenac Bay, opposite Dalhousie, are magni-
ficent cliffs of red conglomerate of the Lower Car-
boniferous, and, appearing fi^m under these, are grey
sandstones and shales of Upper Erian age. They
contain many fossil fishes, especially of the genus
Pterichthys, and also fossil ferns of the genera ArcJice-
opteris and Cyclopteris and of species characteristic
elsewhere of the Upper Erian.
Beyond Campbellton and on the Metapedia Eiver,
the rocks exposed are principally slates or shales
with marked slaty structure, and of Upper Silurian
age. Fine exposures of these are seen in the cuttings
on the Metapedia. Fossils occur in calcareous bands
associated with these slates.
Passing Lake Metapedia, at the head of the river of
that name, the railway cuts through some limestone,
probably of Hudson Eiver age, and then passes into
Lower Silurian, and probably in part Cambrian, shales,
sandstones and conglomerates, of which the greater
part are referred to the Quebec group. Grossing over
54
these, the railway passes at a high level from the val-
ley of the Metapetlia to the Eiver St. Lawrence, here
30 miles wide, and which breaks upon the view sud-
denly after leaving the Metis Station, the cuttings
near which are in slates of the Quebec group. From
this point the railway follows the sti-ike of the
Quebec group all the way to Levis, opposite Quebec.
On this line the conglomerates near Bic are espe-
cially worthy of notice, and are well seen in the cut-
tings. At Levis there are cuttings for a new connect-
ing line of road near the village of Levis, and about a
mile from the railway station, which expose some of
the beds holding Graptolites. The citadel of Quebec
affords a fine exposure of the Quebec group rocks,
though without fossils, and a traveller who can stay
over will find instructive sections at the Island of
Orleans.
The Falls of Montmorenci, near Quebec, are of great
beauty, and show in the gorges Utica shale resting on
Laurentian gneiss, which at the Natural Steps above
the falls is overlaid by Trenton limestone.
Half way between the city and the falls, at a mill in
the village of Beauport, is a bank of shining boulder
clay, overlaid by fossiliferous sand and gravel (Saxi-
cava sand) rich in Saocicava rugosa and other shells.
Clays with a somewhat richer fauna (Upper Leda
Clay) occur in the bank of a brook a little farther
from the road to the north.
From Quebec to Montreal, both the Grand Trunk
Eailway and the North Shore Eailway pass for the
most part over a flat Lower Silurian country, with no
exposures of importance. But the traveller who
ascends the river by steamboat may see, after leaving
Quebec, fine sections of the Quebec group, overlaid by
Trenton limestone and this by Utica shale, which in
many places forms high banks overlooking the river.
J. W. D.
[Note. — The island of Cape Breton will be treated
at length in the Guide Book.]
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.
This beautiful island may be called the garden of
the Dominion. It is settled throughout, and is nearly
all cleared and under cultivation. In this respect
it is in striking contrast to the other provinces of
Canada.
Althougli it has been asserted that Cabot discovered
the ishiiid in 1497, the
English
never laid claim to
it ; and, in early times, it formed part of the govern-
ment of New France. In 1GG3 the Company of Now
France granted it to the Sieur Doublet, a captain in
the French Navy, but no settlements were made and
the grant was revoked. Very little notice was taken
of the island by the French until after the treaty of
Utrecht. Then, having lost Nova Scotia, they con-
centrated their energies upon Cape Breton, and the
fertility of Isle St. Jean, as they called it, soon came
into use for the supply of the garrison at Louisbourg.
In IT 10 it was granted en seigneurle to the Comte de
St. Pierre, who formed a trading company and spent
considerable sums in establishing tishcrios, but without
much success, for the grant was again revoked.
After the treaty of U trecht many Acadians n X i ';ed to
this island, and their number was largely increased by
refugees when the English caj)turcd ti .',. French torts on
the Bay of Fundy . It alforded two-thirds of the supj^lies
used by the garrison of Louisbourg in 1*758, and was
under a governor aj^pointed from thence. The only
fort the French had was a small work with a few guns
at Charlottetown, which they called Port la Joie ti-om
its beauty and security.
The island was surrendered at the capitulation of
Louisbourg, and in 1158 Lord Eollo was sent to take
possession. Many of the Acadians were deported
with those from Nova Scotia and scattered through
the English colonies ; but many escaped by hiding in
the woods and eventually returned to their land,
where they were unmolested afterwards. In 1763, at
the peace, the island was annexed to the government
of Nova Scotia and various schemes for its settlement
were mooted. At last it was divided into townships
and granted, b}' means of a lottery, to a number of
persons, many of them officers of the army and navy
who had served in the war. There were conditions
attached to these grants of quit-rent and of reserva-
tions for churches and wharves, but especially condi-
tions of settlement. The report upon the fertility of
the island was so favourable that it was expected all
the land would be taken up at once.
The grantees, however, for the most part, had no
intention of settling. Many sold their grants, and
the lands in the island gradually fell into the hands of
a few; people who did nothing to improve them, but
remained in England, waiting to profit by the labour
of the actual settlers. Properly, these grants should
56
have been cancelled for non-fulfilment of the condi-
tions, but they wore not. In 1769 the island was
erected into a separate government, and it remained
separate until 1873, when it became part of the Domi-
nion of Canada.
The fertility of the island attracted settlors from all
sides, and soon it was very generally under cultiva-
tion, but, as the leases ran out, the absentee landlords
raised the rents. Whereupon arose disturbances with-
out number — the stalwart pioneers who had brought
the wilderness into cultivation not being able to
understand the correct principles of property and
land tenure. Among other settlers were eight hun-
dred Highlanders, brought out by the Earl of Selkirk,
who became prosperous farmers in a very short time.
The land question still smouldered; occasionally
breaking out into flame until the government, in
1860, appointed a commission, which valued the
rights of tlio absentee proprietors and recommended
their purchase by the government, with a view to re-
selling to the tenantry. A bill was founded on the
report, but was disallowed by the British Clovern-
ment. Shortly afterwai'ds another bill was passed
and allowed, under which the government acquired
the proprietors' rights and thus put an end to further
agitation. The government acquired 843,981 acres,
and in 1882 only 142,011 acres remained not taken
up. Of this 67,000 was indifferent forest land, so that
only 75,000 acres remained under lease to tenants who
had not purchased. In this mann ^' was Prince Edward
Island converted into a country jf proprietors from a
country of tenant farmers.
Census.— The island has a population of 108,891 ; of
these 47,115 are Eoman Catholics. There are 10,751
of French Acadian descent and 48,993 are of Scotch
descent. The inclination of the people is altogether
towards agriculture, although the island is in a very
advantageous position for conducting fisheries. The
area of the province is 2,133 square miles, or 1,365,400^
acres. Of this, 1,126,653 acres are occupied and 596,-
731 aci-es are actually under crop or in pastures or
gardens. So much country cleared up gives the pro-
vince the air of an English rural district — an idea
which the tidiness of the farming tends to con-
firm. Land can, however, be bought cheaply, for, to
the colonist, the West is ever the land of promise,
and the English-speaking people have not the deep-
seated attachment to the soil of the Canadian and
5t
Acudian Fionch. Consequently, land is offered freely,
and an immigrant who does not care to face a pioneer
life may easily find here a homo in a settled and
organized community.
Soil.— The country is level, but slightly rolling.
About the North and West rivers it rises into pictur-
esque hills, none exceeding five hundred feet in height.
It is deeply indented by the sea, and affords much
really lovely and quiet scenery after the European
type of picturesque beauty. The soil is a bright red
loam of uniform character throughout, varying from
a stiff red clay to a sandy loam, and everywhere free
from stones or boulders.
Climate.— The climate of the island is modified by the
sea. In winter, as compared with Canada, it is warmer,
but it is colder than some parts of Nova Scotia, being
less influenced by the winds from the Gulf stream.
It is less changeable, and there is not the fog in the
summer months which is met with in Nova Scotia
and some jmrts of New Brunswick. The island is
becoming a very favourite summer resort for Cana-
dians. All along the north shore are long, level
sandy beaches, formed by the unbroken roll of the
sea, admirably adapted for bathing, and here many
resort who love quiet and seek for healthful recreation.
Prince Edward Island is an Arcadian province
without manufactui'es — the ideal countiy of Mr. Eus-
kin, where no tall chimneys vomit soot and blacken
the herbage. The green grass is always bright upon
the red soil. It is not a province of towns and cities,
but of farm houses in continuous succession on the
roads and streams. One drawback, however, there is,
and that is the difficulty of regular communication
with the mainland during three months in winter.
The field-ice in the strait renders steam navigation
uncertain. Communication is kept up by boats across
a ferry of nine miles to the nearest point of New
Brunswick.
Geology. — The geological formation of the island is
New Eed Sandstone. It is beyond doubt under-
laid by coal measures, the continuation of the adjoin-
ing carboniferous systems of Nova Scotia and Cape
Breton, but at so great a depth that they could not be
profitably opened up in competition.
Railways.— There is but one railway — the Prince
Edward Island Eailway, built by the Provincial Gov-
l\
58 •
ornmont and worked at a considerable annual loss by
the Dominion Government since confederation. It
runs everywhere upon tlie island from end to end, and
brandies to every town, so one such railway is amply
Hutlicieut for any country.
Trade.— The exports consist chiefly of farm and
cattle pi'oducts. They are increasing rapidly, foi",
whereas in 1871 the total expoi-ts amounted to
$1,478,045, in 1883 they amounted to $3,000,000.
Education.— This province contains one college, one
normal school and 423 public schools, all undei- the
administration of a government board with suj)crin-
tcndent and ins])ectors. Forty-two per cent, of the
annual provincial revenue is expended uj)on education.
i) '
11
1 '
TOWNS.
Charlottetown, the capital (population, 11,485), is a
pleasant town situated on a point where three small
streams fall into a safe and commodious harbour.
Steamers ply between it and Pictou. Another line
connects it with Shediac, and there is a weekly line
for Canso, Halifax and l^oston.
Summerside, a town of 2,853 inhabitants, on Bedeque
Bay, 40 miles west of Charlottetown, celebrated for
most delicious oysters — neither too large like Saddle-
rocks, nor too small like Blue Points, but just the size
which right i-eason calls for ; of good ilavour, and
tasting as if they had lived in salt water.
Alberton, 40 miles further west ; much frequented by
fishing vessels.
Tignish, almost at the extreme western end — a
fishing village.
Georgetown, 30 miles east of Charlottetown, on a
very good harbour, which remains open nearly all the
winter. Steamers connect it with Pictou and the
Magdalen Islands. ^
NEW BRUNSWICK.
Physical Features.— The area of this province is 27,-
174 square miles. Fj-om north to south its greatest
length is 230 miles, and its greatest breadth is 190
miles. The coast upon the Bay of Fundy is rocky and
59
storilo until tlio head of the bay is approached, when
the rich Acadian marsh hmdH arc met with. Along
tlio shoi'es of the Ciulf of St. Lawrence the coawt is low
and Kandy. The surface of tlic country in rolling.
Nowhere does it attain any considerable elevation.
In the interior, a few miles back of the coast, the soil
is good and well adapted foi' farming. Tn this respect
tlio pi'ovince has never had justice. There is les.s
really bad land in New Jirunswick than in any other
province, except Prince Edward Island. The geolo-
gical formation of the country ia mainly carbonifer-
ous. A sti'ip of Siiui'ian and of granite runs along
the southern coast, and the northwestern corner is
also Silurian and granite.
Rivers. — New Brunswick is singularlj' endowed with
streams. As l)eforo stated, the surface of the country
is rolling and the valleys of the streams are very wide.
The sj^i'ing freshets iiood these wide valleys and pro-
duce what is called "intervale" land of great fertility,
by the annual deposit of the swollen rivers. The
Eiver St. John is 500 miles long. It is navigable for
large steamers to Fredericton, DO luiles, — antl for 230
miles more for small steamers as far as Grand Falls.
Above the falls there is another stretch of 80 miles of
navigable water. The tributai-ies of the St. John are,
many of them, large streams, such as the Nashwak,
Oromocto, Tobique, Ai'oostook. The St. Croix, Mira-
michi and Restigouche are large rivers, as also are the
Nepiseguit and the Richibucto. These chief arteries
and their tributaries interlace their head waters and
intersect the province in every direction.
Minerals.— At Grand Lake, on the St. John, coal is
mined to a small extent. The seam is thin, and, in
competition with the mines of Nova Scotia, will not
pay to work excepting for local consumption. It is
near the surface, and is found on many fai-ms in the
neighbourhood. What further seams may exist deeper
down is not known. Albertite is a vei-y remarkable
substance found at the head of the Bay of Fundy. It
is a sort of asphalt or solid hydrocarbon. Unfortun-
ately the present suj^ply is exhausted, and no new
veins have yet been struck. A costly litigation was
carried on to determine whether this was, or was not,
coal, and scientific men, in equal number, were ranged
on both sides.
Climate.— The climate on the Bay of Fundy coast is
like that of Nova Scotia, with perhaps more fog in
Bummor. The HhoroH of the (inlf aro I'rco from fo^.
In tho interior, about Frodoricton, the climato is
bright and oold in winter and warm in «ummor, as in
Canada.
II
i, , I
Population.— T 1 10 population of tho province is 321,-
233. The goniun of the people is maritime, as might
be su])po8ed from their origin. Building and owning
ships is a pasHion. It is doubtful whether there is
any port in tlie world where at least one New Bruns-
wick ship cannot at any time bo found, and their
capacity tor managing this kind of property amounts
almost lo instinct. The introduction of iron intoship-
buildintr has injured their trjide in ships, but 76 vessels
were built last year in the province. Tho tisheries
employ a largo number of vessels and men. But tho
New lii'unswickers are also born lumbermen, and two-
thirds of the total value of their exports last year wore
products of the forest. Tho energies of tlie people
are of late turning towards manufacturing, for which,
owing to the proximity of coal, they have great
facilities.
Railways.— The Intercolonial Eailway has been
referred to in another ]ilace. In addition, the Grand
Southern, along the south shore, connects St. John
with St. Stephen, on the St. Croix River. The New
Brunswick Railway is a system of amalgamated inte-
rior lines from St. John to Fredericton — to the Maine
frontier, connecting with the New England roads — to
Edmonton, on the Upper St. John — and to Woodstock.
Education.— The chief educational centre of the pro-
vince is Fredericton, the capital. The University of
New Brunswick is there, and the Normal School.
Tho public schools of the province are free. Last
year there were 1,447 schools in operation, attended
by GG, 775 pupils, or one in five of the population.
Owing to a change in the time of making up the
accounts, the last statement extends over eighteen
months. During that period $236,137 was expended
on public education.
ST. JOHN.
The city of St. John was founded in 1783 by a body
of exiled loyalists, chiefly from the Eastern States.
Among its founders were Chief Justice Ludlow, of the
Supreme Coui't of New York ; Judge TJpham, who had
61
boon a colonol of drai^ooiiH ; .ludgo Allen, who Imd
boon colonel of an infantry regiment ; Beverley liob-
inson, who hml posHOHHed lai'ge eHtatoH on the lludHon.
All of the foundern of St. John had been important
men in the coloiiieH. They had obtained grantn in
what was then called Nova Scotia. The city of Bos-
ton, with only one diHHontiont vote, panHed a reHolution
in IIH'A, which formulated the fooling pi'ovalent, to
the effect "that thisi town will at all t) men, as they
** have done to the utmost of tiieir junver, oppose
" every enemy to the just rights and liberties of man-
" kind, and that, after so wicked a consj)iracy against
" those rights and liberties by cei'tain ingrates, most
" of them natives of these states, and who iuive boon
" refugees and declared traitoi-s to their country, it is
" the ojnnion of this town that they ought never to
*' be suffered to return, but to be excluded from having
lot or portion among us." Naturally, therefore, the
Bottlers at St. John wore poor, for tiieir estates were
confiscated and aiy debts duo them had been cancelled
by law. They
began
the world again, and others
gathered round them, on this rocky coast, until their
city became wealthy and populous ; when one night in
June, 1877, a great conflagration, forfii'o is too weak a
word, swept away 1,G00 houses, extending along nine
miles of streets, and covering 200 acres of ground.
This was in the very heart of the business part of the
city. Twenty to thirty millions of dollars in value was
destroyed in one night; it was a night long to be
remembered by those who witnessed it. But this
indomitable people were not dismayed, for the ashes
wore scarcely cool before they commenced their busi-
ness again in extemporized shanties — in vaults — under
every conceivable kind of shelter which the ingenious
shiftiness of Acadian versatility could suggest. This
was only seven years ago, and now St. John is rebuilt
with many handsome buildings, but, with the excep-
tion of the Court House and the monuments of the
exiled loyalists in the graveyard, everything of his-
toric association has been swept away.
The harbour of St. John is open all the year round,
and, by a breakwater and Partridge Island at its mouth,
is perfectly sheltered. The tide rises 23 feet, but at the
lowest tide there is 18 feet of water on the bar. The
river St. John falls into it and around the estuary is
clustered an aggregate population of 41,363. In St,
John and Carleton, a suburb on the opposite side of
the harbour, are 26,127 persons, and in Portland, a
separate municipality, 15,226.
«
6S
I
%mi\
Prince William stroot sind K'lu^ street are tlie chief
.tiionm^litiircs of St. Jolm. TIk^ Post Ortlcc, OiiMtoiii
Ilousv', Mank of New DrmiMwick and Havings Hank
are hantlsonic and substantial buildings. The Roman
Catholic Cathedral in Waterloo street is a large (iothic
building in sandstoiui an<j marble, simple and severe
in stylo, with a handsonui sj)ire and adorned with rich
Btained glass.
A short distance from the city, the St. Jolm rivor is
spanned by a suspension bridge. This is stretched over
the I'alls, which possess the eccenti'icily of falling both
ways. When the tide is out the water falls 15 feet into
the harbour below, and when the tide runs in, it falls
15 feet into the river. Conseciuently, vessels can enter
the river only at half tide.. The bridge is 70 feet above
the higliest tide and crosses by a span of (540 feet. At
Carleton, La Tour built his fort, and some traces of it
yet remain. There it was that in 1645, Lady do la Tour,
in her husband's absence, defended herself against a
largely superior force, led by by his rival Charnissay,
repulsing them at the head of her men. She at last
surrendered on honourable terras, but Charnissay broke
his solemn pledge, and hanged all the garrison— English
and French — but one, whom he comi)elled to act as
hangman, and he also compelled Madame do la Tour,
with a halter round her own neck, to be a witness to
the murder of her husband's retainers. Thus, says
Hannay the historian of Acadia, " Her great heart was
" broken. She was severed from the husband to whose
" fortunes she had been so faithful, and could scarcely
" hope to see his face again, except as a captive like
" herself. She felt her work in life was done, for she
" was not born for captivity. So she faded day by day
" until her heroic soul left its earthly tenement, and in
" three weeks from the time she witnessed the capture
" of her fort, she was laid to rest by the banks of the
" St. John which she loved so well, and where she had
" lived for so many years." Evidently the Acadians
were very serious persons in those days.
From St. John all parts of New Brunswick can be
reached by rail. Steamers also leave daily for Eastport
and Boston, connecting at the former place with
steamers on the St. Croix to St. Andrews and St.
Stephens. Steamers also connect with Digby and with
Moncton. During last year 1,699 vessels, with an
aggregate tonnage of 515,359 tons, departed from St,
John. The imports for the same period were $5,304, 873,
and the exports $4,24*7,648.
The Intercolonial Kailway from St. John to the main
lino lit MoiK'ton, pasnos through Suhhox VuII(\y, (ho
cfioicijHt tiii'iniii;^ land in llu^ Pioviiico. IMiis rc/^'ion is
jUHtly lainod loi" itw rural beauty as well as I'or
itH t'ortility.
ST. JOHN TO FIlEPERIfTON HY HIVER.
Tho (listanco iw ninety nulos, and it is a vory ploa-
sant trip l»y day. Tho Htoainor leavos from Indian-
town, above tho brid<^o. Tlio nlioros of tho rivor at
fii'Ht aro rocky. T' o river has tho aj)poanin('o of a
HUCct'Hsion of hiicos with stoop Hhoros, but it (dian/^oHas
tho fai'n»in<; land of tho province in reachc<l. The banks
bocomo lower, and Hoino of tlie fertile intervale landn,
which tho province in ho proud of, may be seen from
the deck. After passing (Ja^etown the Jemse^ river,
which is the outlet of Clrand Lake, falls in. Here, in
1640, tho French erected a fort, which in l()r)4 attract-
ed tho attention of Oliver Cromwell, who understood
colonial questions excoedin<:;ly well, lie sent an expe-
dition to take it. and it was taken and held until 1()70.
At the conquest of Caiuida tho Marcjuis de Vaudreuil
was Seigneur, and IIG settlers held lands from him.
Tho Oromocto is the next important river passed, and
close to it is Maugerville, a village settled before tho
rovolution, whose inhabitants, in 1776, wore Whigs,
and passed resolutions of sympathy with Congress.
At last the city of
Fredericton is reached. Ono of tho prettiest cities
in the Dominion — built on level grass-land among
gardens, with a gentle sloping, garden-like acclivity as
a back-ground. The river makes a bend here, and at
on e point is tho Cathedral and at the other is tho
Government House — for this is tho capital of the Pro-
vince, where, undisturbed by the noise and bustle of
the outer world, legislation may be matured in peace.
Fredericton has a population of 6,218. Tho Parlia-
ment Building is a handsome edifice, containing the
chambers of tho Legislative Council, Legislative
Assembly and Supreme Court. The library contains
15,000 volumes. It is a fire-proof building. The gem
of New Brunswick is the Cathedral which, though
small, is one of the most perfect pieces of early English
Gothic in America. The Cathedral of Christ Church
at Montreal was designed after it by the same archi-
tect.
Fredericton is at the outlet of a lumbering district,
aad large establishments are located opposite at the
64
I
V i-
mouth of the Nashwaak Eiver. It is a centre of su^v
plies for the upper St. John. It ia also a centre con-
venient for sportsmen, for it is close to the best hunting
and iishing regions in America. There are good hotels
there, and pleasant cultivated society. In the old days,
when British troops were in Canada, no place was more
Sopular as a station than the quiet pretty capital of
'ew Brunswick.
[From Fredoricton there is a railway along the St.
John river to the Grand Falls and Edmonton, where
the Madawaska falls into the St. John. Up the Mada-
waska and through lake Temiscouata was the old route
to Canada, and there is still a portage from the lake to
the streams which fall into the St. Lawrence. This
route is often taken by sportsmen and tourists. From
the lake to the town of Kivi^re-du-Loup, on the river
St. Lawrence and a station of the Intercolonial Eail-
way, there is a well built post-road, over which Her
Majesty's ti-oops journeyed from New Bi'unswick to
Quebec, at the time of the "Trent" difficulty with
the United States.
A few miles east from Eivi6re-du-Loup is Cacouna,
the principal sea-side resort of the province, where
there is an excellent hotel and numerous comfortable
boarding houses.
The influence of the northern current, which flows
into the Gulf of St, Lawrence through the Strait of
Belleisle, is manifested even here, in the cold, bracing
sea water of the river and m the arctic and sub-arctic
character of its marine fauna and flora. The land flora
is also sub-arctic, and includes many rare northern
plants. The moist fissures of the clift's of the Quebec
group rocks hereabouts, afford shelter to some inter-
esting ferns — as Pelloea gracilis, with its long running,
slender and cord-like rootstock and its delicate stipes
and fronds ; Asplenium viride, local and rare in Amer-
ica; Woodsia hyperborea and glabella, also local and
rare, and Ilvensis, abundant and widespread ; Polys-
tichum fragrans, deemed by Sir William Hooker to
be the most beautiful of all ferns, remarkable for the
pei'sistence of its dead fronds and for its strong aro-
matic odour ; the ubiquitous Cystea fragilis in many
of its protean forms, the purely American 0. bulbifera,
and perhaps also the rare and beautiful 0. montana.
Members who are botanically inclined might do worse
than spend a few days in this neighbourhood and on
the river Saguenay.]