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Ail othar original copias ara filmad baginning on tha firat paga with a printad or illuatratad impraa- aion. and anding on tlia laat paga with a printad or lliustratad impraaaion. Laa axamplairas originaux dont la couvartura an papiar ast imprimis sont filmte an commandant par la pramiar plat at an tarminant soit par la darnlAra paga qui comporta una ampralnta d'Impraaalon ou d'illustration. soit par la sscond plat, aaion la cas. Tous iss autras axamplairas orlginaux sont fiimto an commandant par la pramlAra paga qui comporta una ampralnta d'Impraaalon ou d'illustration at 9n tarminant par la darnlAra paga qui comporta una talla ampralnta. Tha last racordad frama on aach microficha ahall contain tha ay mbol -^ (maaning "CON* TINUED"). or tha symbol ▼ (moaning "END"), whichavar appllaa. Un daa symbolas suivants apparaltra sur la darnlAra Imaga da chaqua microficha, salon la cas: la aymbola -^ signifia "A SUIVRE", la symbols ▼ signifia "FIN ". IMaps. platas, charta. ate, may ba filmad at diffarant raduction ratioa. Thosa too iarga to ba antlraly Inciudad in ona axpoaura ara filmad baginning in tha uppar iaft hand cornar, iaft to right and top to bottom, aa many framas aa raquirad. Tha following diagrama iilustrata tha mathod: Las cartas, planchas, tablaaux, ate, pauvant Atra fiimto k das taux da riduction diffArants. Lorsqua la document ast trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saui cilchA. 11 aat film* A partir da i'angia supAriaur gaucha, da gaucha h drolta, at da haut an bas. 9n pranant la nombra d'imagas nAcassaira. Las diagrammas suivants lllustrant la mAthoda. f arrata dto It la palura, pon A n t 3 KX 1 2 3 4 5 6 TRAVELS IX THE INTERIOR PARTS OF AMERICA; CO MMU NIC ATI NO DISCOVERIES MADE IN EM'LOPING THE MISSOURI, IIKD RIVLH AND WASHITA, BY CAPTAISS LEWIS AND CLARK, DOCTOR SIBLEY, AND Mr. DUNBAR; WITH A STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRIES ADJACENT. AS LAID BEFORE THE SENATE, BY THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES. IN FEBRUARY, 180G, AND NEVER BEFORE PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN. LONDON: FBINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, 6, bridgi strebt, BLACKPRIARS, By J. G. Barnard, 57, Snow-hUl, 1807.' r.m^i -a i i i TRAVELS IX TUB INTERIOR PARTS OF AMERICA. MCSSACJE TO TllK Sl.NATi: ANO HOUSIJ OF RKPRF.SENTATIVES THE UNITKD STATES. OP 1 N pursuance of a measure proposed to congress by a mes- sage ot" January IHth, one thousand eisht hundred ami three, and sanctioned by tlieir appropriation for carrying it into exu- rution, captain Meriwether Lcwii, of the Hrst regiment of infantry, was appointed, with a party of men, to explore the river Slissouri, from its mouth to its source, and, crossing the highlands by the shortest portage, to seek the best water com- munication thence to the Pacific ocean ; and lieutenant Clarke was appointed second in command, 'j'hey were to e^nler into conference with the Indian nations on their route, with a view to the establishment of commerce with them. They entered the Missouri Mloring party np that river, in the suiniuer of one thoMsand eight hnndred and four, it >va.s thought best to employ the autunm of that year in pM»c\iring a know- ledge of an niteresting branch of the riv(;r called the \N ashita. This was undei taken un«ler the direction of Mr. Dunbar, of Natchez, a citizen of distinguished science, who hatl aidetl, and continues to aid us, witli his disinterested and valuable ser- vices in the prosecution «>f these enterprizes. He ascended tht* river to the remarkable hot springs near il, in latitude M'^ 31' 4". 86, longitude !.)2" 50' 4.y' west from (Greenwich, taking its courses and di-stances, and correclinj; them by fret|Ment celestial observations. Isxtracts from his observations, and copies of his map of the river, from its mouth to the hot springs, niake part of the present communications. The examination of the Ited river itself, is but now commencing. February 19, 180f). TlI..IL:iT'KliSOX. EXTRACT OF A UTTPIIII FROM CAPTAIN M F.R I W F.THF.R LUWIS, TO THE I'RKSlDliNT OF I 11 K UNTIED STATLS, DATi:u Fori Mandan, jlpril 17///, 18('J. DEAll Sin, H, EREWITH inclosed you will receive an hivoice of certain articles, which I have forwarded to you from this place. Among other articles you u ill observe, by reference to the invoice, 07 speci- mens of earths, salts and minerals, and (>() specimens of plants: these are accompanied by their respective labels, expressing the days on which obtained, places where found, and also their vir- tues and properties, wlu;n known. Hy means of these labels, reference may be made to the chart of the Missouri, f(»rwarded to the secretary of war, on which the eneam}»nn'nt of each day has been carefully marked : thus the places at which these speci- mens have been obtained, may be easily pointed out, or again found should any of them prove valuable to the community on further investigation. ! ifl.V l»P, of ^>|>i, I iidd tut to llio Hnt of the en able to •ration, in f'l, in the s thonght a knr>\v- ^^asllita. nibar, <»f i«l ai(l»'(|, able ser- ndj'd the .■;r 31' akinv its • celestial IS of liis iike part be Ked lATLS, 180 J. certain Vmoni; ■speci- 'laiits : ]ii tbe ir vir- abeJs, aided b dav ipeci- agaiu t> on I ijiAir. or TMK I'AK I Y. O Vou uill aixo receive herewith inelosed, a part «»f enpl. Clarke -i private journal; the other purl yoii will lind ineloHrd in a sepa- lalt! tin box. 'Ibis journal will serve to i:iv<- )ou llu: dail_\ do- tails of onr pro;;re«*s and transa< tioii-* I shall dis|>atch a canoe with ihree, pt-ihaps fotn persons from the exfrenie nuvi|L;able point ol \\u' Missouii , or di< p'»n:i':e be- tween this river and the ('oUnnbia ri\er, as eilher njiiv Jir>-l luppni. JJy tin; return of this eanoe, 1 >hall M-nd \ou iny journ;il, and s<»n>e one uv two of the best of those ky inv hieii. I ba\e M'Ut a journal kept In one of the -^eri^'eants, to captain Stoddiird, my ajrent at St. i.onis, in order as nnu h as possible to multiply the chances of sa\iiij» sonielhin;^. N\ i ha\c' i iiciuira^nl onr men to keep Journals^ and >even id' tli. m , to whom in this re- .s])ert we yive every assislan«e in our power. 1 have tiaiisiiiitted to the secietmy at w;ir, <>very infornialioii relative to the^eogiaphy of the eountiy whie.li w«' pohsess, loj^e- ther with a siew of the Indian nalioiix, eontahiiii>i; infurmatioii relative to them, on those points with x^bieh I e in llii» iiei;j;hbourhood, tiniounting in total w ith oin.st Ives to :\", peisoiis. iJy means of the interpreters and Indians, we shall be enabled to eonvprs«« witli ull the Indians that we shall probably iiui t wiih ot: tlie Miss(»uri. 1 have forwarded to the secretary lit war my j)id)lir account^', rendered up to the pit >< tit d.i\. 'liicy huv< been nuu:h longer delayed than 1 had any idea tlie\ woiiM hav 'ii, when we de- parted from the Illinois; bnl lhisdela\, niuK ;he eiieumstance^ which I was compelled to act, has been unavoAlable. j'he pro- vision poroque and her crew, couKi not base been dismissed in liiue to have returned to St. Louis last fall, wilhout evident!;, in my opi- nion, hazarding" tin- fateof llie cnlerprt/ie in vvliicb I am eni.';a!;ed; and 1 therefore did not hesilalc to prett.r the ceutuie lliiU 1 may have incurred by the detrnlion of tin ^e papers, to that of riskin:^ ill any degree the suct:ess t>i llie e.vj>i ihtion. 'J'o me- the ilct«?ii- lion of these papers has formed a senous source of l> juiet and anviety ; and the recollection of yoin paitieulu) • uaij;e to me on this subject, has made it still more poignant. J am fully aware of the inconvenienee which must have arisen to tiie war dep;n t- meiit, from the want (d" these voucliers, previous to ilie I ist .ses- sion of congress, but how to aseit it was oat of my power to dcvis'j TRAVELS rN AMERTCA. From iMsplaCP wpsliall send the Ijargennd rrvw en rlv to-morrow mornin{;, with okIits to proceed a% rxprditiotisly as possible to St. I/Miis; by lur \\v sMid our dispatches, which I trust will get safe to hnnd. Her crew consists of ten able bodied men, well armed and provided with a sufficient stock of provision to last them to St. I^)itis. 1 have but little doubt but they will be fired on by the Siouxs ; but they have plcdp;ed thcL -iclves to us that they will not yield while there is a man of them livinor. Our baggage is all embarked on board six sniull canoes, nnd two peroqucs ; we shall set out at the same monient that we dispatch the barge. One, or perhaps both of these peroqucs, v-e ijball leave at the falls of the Missouri, from whence vt; intend con- timiing our voyage in the canoes, and a peroque of skins, the frame of which was prepared at Harper's ferry. This peroque is now in a situation which will enable us to prepare it in the course of a few hours. As our vessels are now small, and the current of the river much more moderate, we calculate upon travelling at the rate of ^JO or 'i5 miles per day, as far as the falls of the Missouri, lieyond this point, on the iirst range of rocky mountains, situated about ICX) miles further, any calcu- lation with respect to our daily progress, can be little more than bare conjecture. The circumstances of the Snake Indians pos- sessing large quantities of horses, is much in our favour, as by means of horses the transportation of our bagg:ige will be ren- dered easy and expeditious over land, from the Missouri to the Columbia river. Should this river not prove navigable where we first meet with it, our present intention is, to continue our inarch by land down the river, until it becomes so, or to the Pacific ocean. The map, which has been forwarded to the secretary of war, will give you the idea we entertain of the connection of these rivers, which has been formed from the corresponding testimony of a number of Indians, w ho have vi- sited that country, and who have been separately and carefully exannned on that subject, and we therefore think it entitled to some degree of contidence. Since our arrival at this placc^ we have subsisted principally on meat, with which our guns have supplied us amply, and have thus been enabled to reserve the parched meal, portable soup, and a contiiderable proportion of pork and tiour, which we had intended for the more difficult parts of our voyage. 1 f 1 ndian information can be credited, the vast quantity of game with which the country abounds through which we arc to pass, leaver us but little to apprehend from the want of food. We do not calculate on completing our voyage within the present year, but expect to reach the Pacific ocean, and return as far as the head of the Missouri, or perhaps to this plaice. J the EX LANATORY KErLRKNCHS. . 7 before wintf r. \oii may ihcicforc expect mc to mf ct you :it Moiitavf no niati'i ml (u* prubuMe obstruction to our progress, and entertain, tiien (oro, the most sanguine hopes of complete success. As t«> invxt 11. iiuiividuully, I never enjoyed a more perfect state of pood health than I have since we commenred cur voyage. ^iy iiuslunable friend und companion, captain Clarke, has also (>ujm\(.(I <;ood health g^-nerully. At this mo- ment every iiulividual of the party is in gooard among duni ; but all iu luiisou act with the most perfect bar- mony. With such men 1 have every thing to hope, and but little to fear. He so good as to present my most aflfcctionate regard to all my friends, and be assured of the sincere and unalterable attach- ment of Your most obedient servant, iMLlIIWETHKR LEWIS, Captain of lit U. S. regiment of infant ry. TR.JEFFEnsON, Fiesidertt of the United States, i A STATISTICAL MEW or THE IXBIAN NATIONS INHAOXTINC THE TERRITORY OF LOUISIANA AND THE COUNTRIES ADJACENT TO ITS NORTHERN AND WESTERN BOUNDARIES. EXPLANATORY REFERENCES. A. The names of the Indian nations as usually spelt and pro- nounced in the English language. B. Primitive Indian names of nations and tribes, English or- thography, the syllables producing the sounds by which I ' 1 I! \\ l.LS I \ A Ml. nil .\. i\\i liirli;iiift tlirtii*'* Ivrs < x|>r«s« tlu' n;iiiu of lluir rc.'prr- tWV llatlMIIM. t'. Niik iKinirs, or tlw^f wliicli liavr <;(!)( rally olitaiiit'd niiiuii>^ the C:ili:iili:iii t titilcis I). Th»- l:Hipu;i«:r iIm V spciik, if" |»iitiiifi\r, innrkcd uitk ;i "* otlii r\vi<«i' il>ri\(il iVoiii, ami :i|i|M()\tiiiuliug to llic E, Niih.Im r <>1' \illii'_'« s. F. NiihiIm r oC lriil-» or juil^'ts of tln« rovitij; lamls. Ci. Nmiif»«rsof' wiiirims. 11. 'Ill'- proliiiMr lliwildcr of souls. I. 'lh»' iiv«r«iii« wliicli tiny i(»\c, or on wliicli llu'ir villjigrs firr sifuutt'd. J. 'Jilt' naiiH s of tlir icitloMs or (oinjuiUKs willi mIioih tluy niaintaiti tluir piiiif ipal ciiMirnnrror |i';(iric. K> I It*' place oil wliuli thru tcitlic i> nsimlly farricil on. Lj. 'I'Im; amouiil ol iihk li.iiitli^r mrt »ai v lor ilitir annual (*on- snnipllon, istiniaUcI in dollars at the St. lr<.>vid((l proper cncuura^einent wus given them. P. The places at whi* h it would he nnitnaily advan!atiinents, in order to supply thu several Indian nations with Tncrchajidiso. Q. The nanu s of the Indian nations w ith \\hoin they arc at war. H. The names of the Indian nations with whom they maintain a friendly alliance, or with wiiom they are united hy iii> tercourse or marriagi". S, jMibcellaneuuii remarks, NOTATIONS. - over n, denotes that a sf)un« hboiit one third uf tlu; whole ttnii>tint. 'I'lie lucrchuiiiliBe is CHtiiiiutcMi ;«t an advaiu^oof \2S iwri'fnt. p« uis to u\c tliut l\*e amount of men huiMh>u which th«; liiriian.H have ht-rn iu the habit of lociiviii^ Humially, is the l>r»t ftaiidant \iy %«hu:h to rrgiibtr tho quaiititii's lircchsiiry for tiicin in the tirst instance; th<>v\Mll ni\iii\a ronsumt) »s niiicii merchunditc as ihey can fray for, und those with whom a ri^u< lar trade has \h-vu carried uu liavo gfuenilly received that quantity. The amount of their rpturns statnl iinth't nod opposite " M" are estimatL-d by the pcitiy Htandiird of hi. I»iii<«, which is 40 centa |if r pound for ih^r ttkinst ; (i u.) aU furs and pelirir-s arc ii,nit reduced hy their comparutite vulue to lbs. of iiu'rchaniahle tker skins, which are tlieu estimated at 1<> rents prr M>. These cstahhiihuicnts lue not nicnlioneii :»5 beinjij th«)ught im- portant at present ui a govcrninentid punit of view. A. Grand Ofcagc. B. B'^r-har-cha. C Grand Zu. 1). ♦ LI. Two. G. 1.200. . , . 11. 5.000. ' 1. At the three forks of the Arkansas river, uud eighty leagues up the Osage river, on the tioutli biUe. J. Merchant-^ of St. IjOUIs. K. At their villages. ' . . L. 15.000. M. 20.000 • ' N. Principally skins of the small deer, black bear, some bea- ver, and a few otters and racLoons. O. Small deer skins, black bear, and a nmch larger propoiition of beaver, otter, rackoon, and niiiakrats. P. About the three forks of the Arkansas river, fiOO miles froni » its junction with the M i$siM.sippi. Q. With all their Indian neighbors, e.vcept the Little Osage, i until the United States took posses»ion of Louisiana. i R. With the Little Osage only. " ^ S. Claim the country within the following limits, viz. commeneinir j at the mouth of a south branch of ihft Osage river, csdleiJ i ^eangua, and with the same to its source, tljenve south . Lewis A.N D Clakke.] b ' ' 10 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. / wardly to intersect the Arkansas about ime hundred miles below tlie three forks of that river ; thence up the principal branch of the same, to the confluence of a large north- Nvardly branch of the same, tying a considerable distance M'est of the Great Saline, and with that str«am nearly to its source : thence northwardly, towards the Kansas river, embracing the waters of the upper portion of the Osage river, and thence obliquely approaching the same ( ^he beginning. The climate is delightful, and the soil fertile in the extreme. The face of the country is generally level, and well watered ; the eastern part of the country is covere - Osage ' river, might be prevailed on to remove to the Arkansas, j and the Kansas, higher up llie Missouri, ^tid thus leave a sufficient scope of country for the Shawnees, Dillewars,' Miames, and Kickapoos. The Osages cultivate corn, beans^ &c. ... . , ... "' ', " ■ A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. L J. Little Osigc. Ood'-zMiiu. Petit Zo. Osftge. One. • ' ) ■ ■' JfeJt r 'I I 300. i.3oo: ••••/. 84... '.'.H'^ ^, Near the. great OsageJ. 'Merchants of St. Louis. ,7'il. iM.; id |{t(.o;( 1. '.»' I ..,!):. 1 Jilt fl ill 5j.> ' Jiii »Ii: b . .) .i ir.v^.x dtcd miles i principal rge iiorlh- e distance 1 nearly to nsas river, ihe Osage me t he ioil fertile alJy level, is covered vl middle mils four tcelience, there are part of es, on the ; bitants of ilf of this grated to lid on its w reside. . side of ut beinnj s, were ge, near eir trade antitjr of ^ Oitage ^rkansa:^, , i leave a illewars,' te corn. Hf //■ .., .ii f! . ',' .':( USii.'j .i |] t,: / INTERESTING FARTlCULAftd. H K. At their v>)Iage. L. 5.000. iSI. 8.000. JV. The same as the Great Osages. O. The same as the Great Osages. P. The same as the Great Osages. Q. With all their Indian neijtlibors, except the Great Osage K. With iho Great Osage only. S. See page ]1, S. A. Kanzas. B. Kar'-sa, C. Ki'ih. 1). OsAge. E. One. G. 300. ' . II. 1.300. 1. Eighty leagues up the Kan/as river, or the north side. J. Merchants of St. Louis. K. On the M issouri above the mouth of the Kanzas river, not stationary, and at their village. L. .5.(X)0. M.8()(X). N. The same as the Osage, with buffaloc grease and robes. O. The same as the Osage. P. On the north side of the Kanzas river, atabluflfonc and a half miles from its confluence with the Missouri. Q. With all nations within their reach. K. They are sometimes at peace with the Ottoes and Missouris, with whom they are partially intermarried. S. The limits of the country they claim is not known. The country in which they reside, and from thence to the Mis- souri, is a delightful one, and generally well watered and covered with excellent timber : they hunt on the upper part of Kanzas and Arkanzas rivers ; their trade may be expected to increase with proper management. At present they are a dissolute, lawless banditti ; frequently plunder their traders, and cotnmit depredations on persons ascending and desend- ing the Missouri river: population rather increasing. These people, as well as *hc Great and Little Osages, are stationary, at their villages, from about the lath of March to the loth of May, and again from the 15th of August to the 15th of October: the balance of the year is appro- priated to hunting. They cultivate corn, &c. B '2, le TBAVEXS IN AMERICA. V' I ! 1 \\\ i I! I ii A. Ottocs. '.'■.' B Wsy-dok^-lah-tah. C I /a Zpen plains, which are er courses. \, and frre h tliey now rheir trade beaver and 1 yet to in- ir country, id hunting, )opiilalioti o ail white eir traders, leir debts. ed people% ne village. INTERESTING PARTICULARS. t« m i: M. See page 17 M. < . N. See page 17 N. • .: ' ' O. See page 17 O. ; •' ; > i P. Seepage 17 P. . ! Q. See page 1 7 Q. li. See page 17 H. ' S>. Are a branch of the Pania proper ; or, as they are frequently termed, the Big Pauch. About ten years since they wiili- drew themselves from the mother nation, and ci-tablishcd a village on a large northwardly Jbranch of the Kanzas, to M hich they have given name ; they afterwards subdivided and lived in different parts of the country on the waters of Kanzas river ; but being harassed by their turbulent neigh' bors, the Kanzas, they rejoined the Panias proper last spring. What has been said with respect to the Paidias pro- per is applicable to these people, except that th»y hunt- principally on the Republican river, which is better stocked' with timber than that hunted by the Panias. A. Panias Loups (or Wolves.) B. Skec'-e-ree. C. La Loup. D. Pania. ■ ■■'■'■ "'•■''.' -''i E. One. G. 280. • '"• ■' '■'■■■' ■■ ■ ■ • '- • ' H. 1.000. I. On the N. E. side of the Wolf river, branch of tlie river Platte, 36 leagues frotn its mouth. J. Merchants of St. Louis. K. At the village of the Panias. L. 2.400. M.:i. 500. "^ ' '■ ' •' '^ Ul')i'. /4l' •<. i . i. .' N. See page 17 N. ' O. See page 17 O. ! P. See page 17 P. Q. With Pania-picque, Great and Little Osage, Kanzas, Le " Plays, Sioux, Ricaras> Mahas, Poncars, Ottoes and Mis- fiouris. •' '••■ ■; •■' ' _ • ' ■■ ;■ ■ --^ ; R. Panias proper, and Panias Republican. S. 'I'hese are also a branch of the Panias proper, who sepa- rated themselves from that nation many jears since, and < • established themselves on a north branch of the riv^r Platte, •. to which their name was also given : these people have likewise no idea of an exclusive right to any portion of the '(M i Id TRAVBLt IN AMERICA. country. They hunt on the Wolf river above thwf viWugc, snd on the river Platte above the mouth of that river. This country is very similar to that of the Punias proper ; though there is an extensive body of fertile ucll timbered land between the Wolf river below tlujir village and tlie river Corn de Ccrf, or Eikhoiu river. They cultivate • ' corn, beans, &c. The particulars related of the other I'a- nias is bIko applicable to them. They are seldom visited by any trader, and tlierefore usually bring their furs and ' peltry to the village of the Panias proper^ wliere they traliic ivith the whites. 5 1 r ti " A. B. C D. E. F. G. H. 1. J. K. L. M. N. O. Mah&s. "'■ '-■''>'■•> •.••"'■ ■ - O-m-a'-hi. J • ! - - ■ La Mar. Osage, with different accent ; some words peculiar to them- selves. Av ( w I , 60. 150. 6(X). . . . : '^ The river Quicurre and the head of the Wolf river.. Merchants of St. Louis. . • • ■ At their old village, though no trade latterly. 4.000, including the Pon'c^rs. / > 7.000 including the Pon'cars. ' /;'•;.:{ See page 17) I^. '^ ' ' - ' The same as the Ottoes' and Missouris*, with the addition of skins of the Missouri antelope, (called cabvi'^ by tbe inha- bitants of the Illinois.) . ..j./j .. j? jy », .;•.:], .'.i P. See page 17, P. Q. Great and Little Osage, Kanzas, Loups, Ottoes, i^isspuri^ and all the Sioux, except the Yankton Ahn^. R. With the Panias proper, Panias Republicans, Yankttin^ Ahna, Saukees, Renars, and Ayouwais. .t S, They have no id«a of exclusive possession of soil. Abouf _ ten years since, they boasted 700 warriors. They have lived in a village, on the west nank of the Missouri, S36 miles above the mouth of the riv^r Pktte, where they eulr . ti,vated corn> beans, and melons : tbey vere wau-like, and the terror of their neighbours. In the yummer and autumn of J 802, they were visited by the small->pe«, whick re- <|^ced their numbers to somethiiig ka*' tUau SCO; lliey '■■■S -J /^ INTBREITINO PARTICULARS. 17 burnt their village, and have become a wandering nation, deserted by the traders, and tlie consequent deficiency of arms and ammunition has invited frequent aggreitsioni from their ueigbourM, whicii have tended to reduce them still further. They rove principitlly on the waters of the river Quicurre, or Kupid river. The country is generally level, high, and open : it is fertile, and tolerably well watered. They might easily be induced to become stationary : they are well disposed towards the whites, and are good hunters : tlieir country abounds in beaver and otter, and their trade will increase and become valuable, provided they become stationary, and are at peace. The Tetons BoU( brftl^ killed and took about Oo of them last summer. A. H. C. D. E. r. G. H. J. J. K. •L. M. N. O. P. Q. R. S. Poncdrs. Poong-car. la P«»ng, Mkirk, GO. 50. 'iOO. With the Mahas. Merchants of St. Louis. No place of trade latterly. See page '20, L. See page 20, M. See page 17, N. See page 20, O. See page 17, P. See page 20, Q. See page 2 1 , K. The remnant of a nation once respectable in point of num-^ bers. I'hey formerly resided on a branch of the Red river of lake Winnipic : beuig oppressed by the Sioux, they re- moved to the west side of the Missouri, on Poncar river, where they built and fortitied a village, and remained some years ; but being pursued by their ancient enemies the Sioux, and reduced by continual wars, they have joined, and now reside wiUi tlie Mahas, whose language they speak. ,1 . LEWI« AND CLARKE.] 18 TRAVELS IN AMERIdA, A. Ric&ris. B. Sllr-rSlh-h^. C. h Ree. D. Punia, with a difTerent accent^ and a number of words pGcu<> liar to themselves. E. Three. F. G. *)00. H. 2.000 I. On the S.W. side of the Missouri, 1.440 miles from its mouth. J. Merclinnts of St. Louis. K. At their villages. L. 2. .500. M.fi.OOO. N. Bultaloe robes principally, a small quantity of beaver, small foxes and grtase. O. BnfTaloe robes, tallow and j»rease, skins of beaver, small and liirge foxes, wolves, anltilopes and elk in great abun- dance : also, some otter, deer and prizzly bears. P. About thi' mouth of the rwer Chyenne, on the Missouri, or at the mouth of the Yellow Stone river. Q. With Uje Crow Indians, Snake Indians, Panias Loups, As- sinnibai.is, Nemosen, Alitan, la Plays, and Paunch In- dians. R. Chyrnnes, Wetepahatocs, Kiawas, Kanenavich, Staetan, Cattako, Dotame, Custahanas, Mandans, Ah-wah-haway's, Minetares, and partially vvith the Sioux. S. Are the remains of ten large tribes of Panias, who have been reduced, by the small- pox and the Sioux, to their pre- sent number. They live in fortified villages, and hunt immediately in their ueiglihourhood. 'I'lie country around them, in every direction, lor several hundred miles, is en- tirely bare? of timber, except on the water-courses and steep declivities of lulls, where it is sheltered from the ravages of fire. The land is tolerably well watered, and lies well for cultivation. The remains of the villages of these people are to be seen on many parts of the M issouri, from the mouth of tlic 'IVtone river to the Mandans. They claim , no land except that on which their villages stand, and the jS'eUis which they cultivate. The Tetous claim the country iaround thern. Though they are the oldest inhabitants, they may properly be considered the farmers or tenants at will of that lawless, savage and rapacious race the Sioux Teton, who rob them of their horses, plunder their gardens , i> .-J. 'M IXTERBSTiNG PARTICULARS. 19 rds pcGUo from its ver, small iver, small eat abun- issouri^ or Loups, As- lunch In- Staetan, ih-haway's, who have > their pre- and hunt try around ies, is cn- } and steep ravages of es well for tse people from the hey claim , and the he country nhabitants, tenants at the Sioux eir gardens and fields, and somen uies murder ihem, without opposi- tion. If these people were freed froui die oppression of the Teious, iheir trade woidd increase rapidly, and nii.j;lit be extended to a consideiabU amount. 'J'liey nihiiititiii u partial trade with their oppressors tlie Toloiis, lo wlKiin they barter horses, mules, corn, beans, and a species of to- bucco ^hich tliey cultivate; aud reciive in return j^uiis, ammunition, kettles, a\es, and other articles which the Tetons obtain from the Yunktons of the M. and Sis- satoues, who trade with Mr. Cammcron, oo the river St. Peters. These horses and nmlei the Ricaras t)btain from their wcjtern neighbours, w ho visit them fre^iciilly fur the^jurpose of trafficking. ,i ^ . A. Mandans. •a -KM AA rMa-too-ton'-ka, 1st village. B.Man-dan ( Koop-tar'-har, 2d vdlage. .. . .• ,,> .\ C. Mandans. * . .:/ .li D. *, some words resembling the Osage, - , . ■ .' > E. Two. . li U F. . :' .'• G. 350. .1 H. 1.250. • I. On both sides of the Missouri, 1 6 12 miles from its month. J. The Hudson Bay and ^ . VV. companies,' from Uieir eaita- blishment on the Assinniboiu. .^.lu-.bn' I .-. K. At their villages. . !, . ! 'j 'i* .• : .?. L.. 2.000. . i;. . • ;.,;. ;,»rh-i;:!'. '' ' .'1 M.6 000. f N. Principally the skins of the large and small wolves, and ;the small fox, with buifaloe robes, some skins of the large. fo.\ and beaver, also corn and beans. O. The same as the Ricars (see page 23 O.) except the grizzly bear. They could furnish, in addition, the skins of a large species of white hair, a very delicate lur. P. At or near the mouth of the Yellow Stone river. • . ". i Q. With no nation except a defensive war with the Sipux. K. With all nations who do not wage war against them. S. Tliese are the most friendly, well disposed Indians inhabiting the Missouri: They are brave, humane, and hospitable. About 25 years since they lived in six villages, about forty miles below their present villages, on both sides of the Missouri. Repeated visitations of the Small-pox, aided by frequeut attacks of the Sioux, has reduced them to their c « CO TRAVELS IN AMEIlfCA. present number. Tliey claim no particular tract of coun- try. They live in fortified vill.iges, hunt immidiately iu their neighbourhood, and cultivate corn, beaux, squashes, and tobaroo, ^%hich form attklcs of traffic with their neigh- bours the Assinnibuiu : they also bailer hcHscs with the Assinniboins for tirnui, ammunition, axes, kettles, and other articles of European munufucture, which these last obtain from the British establishments on the Asivinniboin river. The articles which they thus obtain from the Assiunibointi and the British traders who vi«tit them, they again exchange for horses and leather tents with the Crow Indians, Chy- ennes, Wetepahntoes, Kiawas, Kanenavich, StactaH, and Cataka, who visit them occasionally for tlie purpi)se of traffic. Their trade may be much increased. Their coun- try is similar to that of the llicuias. Pupuiatiuu increasing. , ■/«'■ r A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. J. J. K. L. M. N. O. P. Q. R. S. .ci V; Ahwi^hhaway. Ah-wiih ha-way. Gens des Soulier. Menetarrcs. One. 50. 200. On the S. W. side of the Missowi^ three miles above the Mandans. See page <2 -I-, J. - '•' •- ' • At the Mandan and Meuetare villages. 300. 1.000. ■- :^''^' ■' '-■ • ■ ■ - -i' See page 24, N. ~ • '■ '• See page «4, O. ' See page 25, P. Defensive war with the Sioux, and offensive with the .Snake Indians and Flathcads. ■ / i With all who do not wage war agahist thetn, except the Snake Indians and Flatheads. They difter but very little, in any particular, from the Maai- dans, their neighbours, except in the unjust war which they, as well as the Minetares, prosecute against the de- fenceless Snake Indians, from which, I believe, it will be difficult to induce them to desist. They claim to have once been a part of the Crow Indians, whom tliey still acknow- ledge ^s relations. They have resided on the Missouri as long as their tradition w iti enable them to inform. ^ i 1NTBBE8T1N0 PABTICCLAR9. ft! t of coin- idiately in squaslies, heir neigh- i uith the and utiicr laitt obtain boin river, ssiiiuiboiiiii II exchange lians, Chy- actaHf and pur)M)se of fhcir coun- increusing. above the the Snake except the A. B. C. J). E. F. G. H. 1. J. K. L. M. N. O. P. Q. R. S. M< Minctarcs. E.hat'.«ar, <[5[j^; Gross Ventres. Two. nc-tar-re, l^t village, ne-tar-re-iuc-le-httf-tar, 2d villa|^. 1./. I y 600. • ' •' a.50(). On both sides of Knife river, near the Missouri) 6 tniloi above the Mandans. See page 24, J. .^ • . . I. i\t their villages and hunting camps. ' 1.000. ... ! ;j.OOO. ..: , .. w : ■■ ^ ■ .- ;. • , - See page 24, N. " ♦ The same as the Mandans (see p. 24, O.) with the addition of the white bear. • ^ > Seep. 25, P. - " Defensive ^var with the Sioux, and offensive with the Snak^ Indians and Flatheads. With all, except the Snake Indians and Flatheads^ who do not wage war against them. 1 1'.. > s,«i t < ' .- nn \,■.^ They claim no particukr country, nor (\o they adMgti 4ftcd»- selvea any limits: their tradition rt-Uites that thtty have always resided at their present villages. In tlvsir customs, manners, and dispositions, they are sintilur to the JMiilidans and Ahwahhaways. ^fhe scarcity of ^ei induces them to reside, during the cold sipason, in large bands, in- oimps, on different parts of the Missouri, as high up that river as the mouth o( the river Yellow Stone, and « 6Ht of their vilb^es, about the Turtle mountain. I believe 'that these people, as well as the Mandans and Ahwahhaways,-niight be prevailed on to remove to the mouth of Yellow Stone river, provided an establishment is niude at that place. They have as yet furntfthed - scarcely any beaver, although the country they hunt abounds with them ; the lud!>;es of these animals are to be seen within a mile of their rifhiges. These people have also suffered considerably by «iie vmali- pox; but have successfully resisted the attadu of the Sioux. The N. W. company intend to form an establwb- ment in the course of the next summer, and aalnmn, .aki the Missouri, near these people, whirh, if etlecied, vvUl most probably prevent their removal to any point \d)ich our government may hereafter wish them to reside at.. ^-^ tf- £« TBAVELS IN AMERICA. '11 :li A. Avaiiwais. B. Ah'-e-o-war'. ' . . • C. Ne Perce'. , ,'.;-»*a v. .... j .;.,-/'"' J). Missouri. . ' t? ' E. One. F. • ' G '200. H. 800. I. 40 Icagnes up the river Demoin on the S. E. side. J. Mr. Crawford, and other mercliaiits froiu Michiliniackinac» K. At their village and hunting camps. ' >'■ > .' L. ti.SOO. .1 : M.fi.OOO. N. Deer skins principally, and the skins of the black bear, bea* ver, otter, grey fox, rackoon, muskrut, and mink. O. Deer skins, beaver, Lhick bear, uiter, uriy fox, rarkoon, ,1. I' inuskrat> and mink ; also, elk, and deers* tallow, and bears' oil. .. J . ,'i.J : P. At the mouth of the Kunzas. .*' •' '*' Q. Particularly with the Osage, Kanzai, and Chippeways, la Fallorine, and those of Leach and Sand Lakes ; some- ob ( timesi with the Mahas and Sioux Wahpatone, Mindawar* carton and Wahpacoota. Rk With the Ottues, Missourw, Siouxs, Yankton, ahnah, and all the nations east of the Missiasippi, and south of the Chip- .-rjK pewaya. •.' .-., ^ t ^nnui. • !;.S.;3 >i ««>•■ S. They are the descendants of the ancient Missouris, and claim > , the country west of them to the. Missouri; but as to its I. precise limits, or boundaries, between themselves and the Saukees^nd Foxes, I could never learn. They are a tur- bulent savage race, frequently abuse their traders, and com- mit depredations on those ascending and descending the Missouri. Their trade caunet be expected to increase much., ->*■»! ■, L-'I i/orq ! • . t ; r ■ i; ' ■ u ♦'i'., ' A. Saukees. '-, 'y * • !:!v »? , B. O'saw-kee. i : .' ': ■> h.Mti.-^ o.: - ,.•; :fM.>-,! ■♦- •» i' C. la Sauk.. ; -»:■'. '.>■. ii v'ht.t.- ■• "••»/.' .'m-I ;/. | D. * : < . • :-•;'•»,■ tH vi(K>'|n«». i' /: ■♦ . t .t.M ''. £. Two. • hf»»- /;.-(-- ,.ia IXO.t '^l^- > "lit 'J ■ in iV 'li :^ i F. ' ; !^ if _'!■»'. ^ r .'^u^iO'iil, .'•- 'fl .'"M '»;.'.«''*'•' ' '•.' G. 500. . ' ' , ■ • ■•■•H'^: 'h«. :. r, ,■..;. ^.*' ■- H. 2.000.' • •. ^i ^- V ■ . i;;'u . . . i^.' ^. : .... •• ^^ I .. ■I I i 1 mackmac* bear, bea- c, rarkoon* and bears' )peways, la es ; soine- Mindawar' loh', and all the Chip- and claim ut as to its ires and the arc a tur- , and com- cending the o increase INTERrSTlSr, PArTICUl.ARS. it 4 I. Oil the west suii of ihu Misnissippi, 140 leagues above St. Loiiii J. MtTclianls from MiclniiiMO'"H"»«* and St I.oiii^. K. At their vil! lutsi, on llir Misai^i^ippl in suiuir) places, and at 1C» I liver uii [hv Waubasfii Jj. .fKXi. N. Set' p. CR, N. O. See p. 28, O. P. At Prairie de Chicn, (or dog plain ) Q. With ilie 0.sa:;e, Chippewa) s gtiierall), and iSioux, except tlio Vanktuii uliii'.ih. H. Kanzas, Ollots, Mis^uuris, Paulas, M alias. Ponrars, and i\y:i(i\va\s, and all llic nations cuHt ot lliu Miiiiiissippi, and south ot the CliippcwayS; also with the Yankton ahiiaha. S. Saukces and lUiiars, or F*)xe3. Thejie nations are so per- fc<:tly c«)ii.Holidatcd that tliey may, in tact, be considered as one nation only. 'I'lu y speak the same lan^uaae : they formerly resided on tlie east .side of i\ui Mississippi, and .still cluim the land on that i>ide of the rivi.T, from lliu iitouth of the Oisooiison to the Illinois river, and eastward toward . lake Michigan ; but to what particular boundary, 1 am not informed : they also claim, by conquest, the whole of the country belonging to the ancient Missoiiris, which forms one of the most valuable portions of Louisiana, but what proportion of this territory they are willing to assigu to the .Ayouway^, who also claim a part of it, i do not know, as they are at war with the Sioux, who live N. and N. VV. of them, except the Yankton ahnah. Their boundaries in that quarter are also undefined : their trade would become much more valuable if peace ^^as established between them and the nations west of the Missouri, with whom they are at war : their population has remained nearly the same for many years : they raise an abundance of corn, beuns, and melons : they sometimes hunt in the country west of them, towards the Missouri, but their principal hunting is on both sides of the Mississippi, from the mouth of the Oisconsin to the mouth of the Illinois river. These peo- ple arc extremely friendly to the whites, and seldom injure their traders; but they are the ♦.lost implacable enemies to the Indiali nations witii whom they are at war. To them is justly attributable the almost entire destruction of the Mis- souris, the Illinois, Cahokias, Kaskaskias^ and Piorias. fm i £4 TAAVELS l^ A31EHCA. , A. Foxe*. ^' ' B. Ot-u\r-g&r-me. C. la Keiiar. D. Saukee. ' E. One. T. G. SOO. H. l.SOO. 1. Near ihe Saukees. • J. Meichanl8 of Michiliinackinaci and St. Louis. K. See page 29, K. . L. 2.500. M. 4.(X)0. > 1. See page 28, N. O, See page 28, O. P. At Prairie de Cbien (or dog plain.) Q. See page 29, Q R. See page 29, ' ^ S. See page 29, S. >r * A. SIOUX'S PROPER .. / » -3" INTEEBSTI^O PARTICULARS. 11 I >ROPETt S. WAHPATONE. Claim the countiy in \ihich they rove on the N. VV. sitle of the river St. Peters, from their vil- lage to the mouth of the Chippeway river, and thence north eastvvardly towards the head of the Mi.ssi.ssippi, including the Crow-wing river. Their lands are fertile, and generally well timbered, lliey are only stationary while the traders are with them, which is from the beginning of October to the last of March. Their trade is supposed to be at its greatest extent. They tres4t their traders with respect, and seldom attempt to lob them. This, as well as the other Sioux bands, act. iu all re- spects, as independently of each other as if they were a distinct nation. S. MINDAWARCARTON. Tis the only band of Sioux that cultivates corn, beans, &c. and these even cannot properly be termed a stationary people. They live in tents of dressed leather, which they transport by means of horses and dogs, and ramble from place to place during the greater part of the year. They axe friendly to their own traders ; but the in- veterate enemies to such as supply their enemies, the Chippe- \vays, witli merchandise. They also claim the country iu which they hunt, commencing at the entrance of the river St. Peters, and extending upwards, on both sides of the Mississippi ri- ver, to the mouth of the Crow-wing river. The land is fertile, and well watered; lies level, and sufficiently timbered. Theii trade cannot be expected to increase much. S. VV AHPACOOTA. They rove in the country south west of the river St. Peters, from a place called the Hardihood to the mouth of the Yellow Medicine river ; never stationary but when their traders are with them, and this does not happen at any regular of fixed point. At present they treat their traders tolerably well. Their trade cannot be expected to increase much. A great proportion of their country is open plains, lies level, and is tolerably fertile. They maintain a partial traffic with the Yanktons and Tetons to the west of them ; to these they barter the articles which ihey obtain from the trader:* on the river St. Peters, and receive iu return horses, some robes and leather l<*dges. S. S.ISSATONE. They claim the country iu which they rove, embracing the upper portions of llio Red river, of lake Winnipie, and St. Peters : it is a level coiuitry, intersected with many small lakes ^ the land is fertile and free of stone; the ma- jority of it open plains. This country abounds more in the va- luable fur animals, the beaver, otter and marten, than any portion of Louisiana yet known. This circumstance furnibljes the Sis- satones with the means of purchasin;:; niore merch;uulii>e, in proportion to their number, than any nation in liiii quifrlcr. Lewis and Clarke.] c T^ 18 TTlAVEtS IN AMERICA. I I ally plains with hut hctlc tiniber S. These are the vilest miscreants of the savage race. and must ever remaui rr/roNs ijois ukulI' . TKrONS OKANDAXl>AS. TKTONS MINNAKl.NEAZZO. TKTONS SAHOM:. pirates of t!jo Missoiui, until such measures are pursued, l)v our governnteut, as will make them feel a dependance on its will f(.)r their supply of merrhitiidise. Unless these people arc itflaefd f(.) orrfor, !n cof rclv<- ni». wsure'*, 1 am roudy to pronounce th M by them ^ meet at f James ently at- Mssatonet consider- ies, cloth ^ (lincipally in the na- led to the ahhough e than the n of what [led of the has been adeof the n with the lers of the le defenee- the river mountains, ntire plain, oil fertile, st disposed le even will m possibly le progress ed them to proper to •urther acts river De- them, for le, if well eir country ivood-lands i is princi- re the vilest lits of the race, and ver remain Ire pursued, Jance on its people arc pronounce i INTERESTING PARTICULARS. 19 •% ihat the citizens of the United States can n«>ver enjoy hut par- tially the advantages which the Missouri prcients. Rtlying on a regular supply of merchandise, through the channel of the river St. Peters, they view willi contempt the merchants of the Missouri, whom they never fail to plunder, when in their power. Persuasion, ov advice, with them, is viewed as supplication, and only tends to inspire thtm with contempt for those who offer either. The tamencss with which the tniders of the Mis- souri have heretofore submitted to their rapacity, has tended not a little to inspire them with contempt for the white persotis who visit them, through that channel. A prevalent idea among them, and one which they make the rule of their conduct, i?, that the more illy they treat the traders the greater quantity of merchandise they will bring them, and that they will thus obtain the articles they wish on better terms ; they have endeavoured to inspire the Ricaras w ith similar sentiments, but, happily, with- out any considerable effect. The country in which these four bands rove is one continued plain, with scarcely a tree to be seen, except on the water-courses, or the steep declivities of hills, which last are but rare : the land is fertile, and lies extremely well for cultivation ; many parts of it are but badly watered. It is from this country that the Missouri derives most of its colouring matter ; the earth is strongly impregnated with glaii- ber salts, alum, copperas and sulphur, and when saturated w ith water, immense bodies of the hills precipitate themselves into the Missouri, and mingle with its waters. The waters of this river have a purgative effect on those unaccustomed to use it. 1 doubt whether these people can ever be induced to become stationary ; their trade might be made valuable if they were re- duced to order. They claim Jointly w ith the other bands of the Sioux, all the country lying within the following limits, viz. be- ginning of the confluence of the river Demoin and Mississippi, thence up the west side of the Mississippi to the mouth of the St. Peters river, thence on both sides of the Mississippi to the mouth of Crow-wing river, and upwards with that stream, including the waters of the upper part of the same ; thence to include the waters of the upper portion of Red river, of lake Winnipie, and down the same nearly to Pembenar river, thence a south-westerly course to intersect the Missouri at or near the Mandans, and with that stream downwards to the entrance of the Warrecunne creek, thence passing the Missouri it goes to include the lower portion of the river Cliyenne, all the waters of White river and river Teton, includes the lower portion of the river Quicurre, and returns to the M issouri, and with that stream doxynwards to the mouth of Waddipon river, and thence eastwardly to intersect the Mississippi at the beginning. c 2 Hb TitAYELS IN AMERICA. A. Chyennc*. B. Sbar'-ha. C. laChien. D. * E. F. 110. G. 300. H. 1200. I. About the source of t1i(^ river Chyenne, in the blick hills. J Mr. Loiselle, & Co. of St. Louis. K. On the river Cbyenne, not stationary, and at the Ricarai village. L. 1.500. M. 2.000. N . Buffaloe robes of best quality. O. Buffaloe robes, tallow, grease, and dried meat, sic ins of the bea\er, small and large foxes, small and large wolf, ante- lope, elk and deer in great abundance ; also, elk and deers' tallow, a few grizzly bear, skins of the white bear, and big-horned antelopes. P. At, or near the mouth of Chyenne river. a. A defensive war with the Sioux, and at war M^ith no other within my knowledge. R. With all their neighbours except the Sioux. S. They are the remnant of a nation ohce respectable in point of number: formirly resided on a branch of the Red river of Lake Winnipie, which still bears their name. Be- ing oppressed by the Sioux, they removed to the west side of the Missouri, about 16 miles below the mouth of Warricunne creek, where they built and fortified a village, but being pursued by their ancient enemies the Sioux, they fled to the Black hills, about the head of the Chyenne ri- Ver, where they wander in quest of the buffaloe, having no fixed residence. They do not cultivate. They are well disposed towards the whites, and might easily be in- duced to settle on the Missouri, if they could be assured of being protected from the Sioux. Their number annu- lally diminishes. Tlieir trade may be made valutible. n _*-^ A. Wetep&ha'toes. B. We-te-pa-ha'-to. C. Wete-pahatoes. D. ♦ INTERESTING ^ABTICVLACS. «l ♦ J. K. O. ck hills. i P. Q the Ricaras R. skins of the wolf, aiite- : and deers* bear, and th no other ble in point the Red ame. Be- west side mouth of ;d a village, SioiiK, they Chyehne ri- be, having They are asily be in- be assured mber annu- ^ble. ■k F. 70, including the KlAwCis. G. 2fK), including the Kiawas. H. 700, including the Kiawas. 1. ()u the Paductt fork of the river Platte. No trader. L. M. N. The same as the Tetons. (see first tabic) also horses. At, or near the mouth of Chyenne rivrr. A defensive war with the SioUx, and at war with no other within my knowledge. R. With all their wandering neighbours to the west, and particu- larly with Ricnras, Mandans, Minatarcs, and Ahwahha- ways whom they occasionally visit for the purpose of trafficking their horses, mules, &c. for European manufac;- tures. S. They are a wandering nation, inhabit an open country, and raise a great number of horses, which they barter to the Ricaras, Mandans, &c. fur articles of European manu- factory. They are a well disposed people, and might be readily induced to visit the trading establishments on tlie Missouri. From the animals their country produces, their trade would, no doubt, become valuable. iThese people again barter a considerable proportion of the articles they obtain from the Menetares, Ahwahhaways, Mandans^ and Ricaras, to the Dotames and Castapanas. , A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. J. K. O. P. Q R. fcj. K* A A raw as. Ki'-a-wa. ^ • Ki'awus. * See above, F. See above, G. ~ See above, H. On the Paduca, and frequently witli ttie Wctepahatoes. No trader. L. M. N. S{ e page GO, O. At, or nenr the mouth of Chyenne river. See above, Q. See above, U, \V liat has been said of the Wetopahatocs is in all rcspcchi applicable to these people also. Neither these people, the Wctepahatoes, nor the Chycnnes have any idea of exclusive right to the soil. tft TRAVELS IN AMERICA. A. Kanenavish. B. Kan-e-iiii'-visli. C. Gens-des-Vaclic. D. * F. 150. G. 400. H. 1.500. I. On the heads of the Paducas fork of the river Platte, and S. fork of Chyenne river. J. No trader. K. L. M. N. O. See page 20, O. P. At, or near the mouth of Chyeunc river. Q. See page 2 1, Q. R. See page 21, R. S. See bottom of page 21, S. A. B. C. D. E. F. g: H. I. J. o. p. Q. R. S. m Staetan. Sta'-e-tan. Kites. * • 40. 100. 400. On the head of. the Chyenne, and frequently witli the Kanenavish. K. L. M. N. ♦ See page 21, O. . At, or near the mouth of Chyenne river. See page 21, Q. _ See page 21, R. # See bottom of page 21, S. ' I !i A. Cataka. B. Cat'-a-kji. C. Cat'ak^. D. # *:. .' F. 25. G.75. H. 300. V w s>s Platte, INTERESTING PARTICULARS. «9 I. Between the heads of the north and south forks of the river Chyenne. J. K. L. M. N. O. Sec page 20, O. P. At, or near the mouth of the Chyenne river Q. See page 21, Q. R. See page 21, K. / S. Sec bottom of page 21, S. ' « witli the .^1 A. Nemousin. B. Ne'-mo-sin. C. Allebome. D. * E. F. 15. G. 50. H. 200. I. On th« head of the north fork of tlie river Chyenne. J. No trader. K. L. M. N. O. See page 20, O. P. At, or near the mouth of the Chyenne river. Q. A defensive war with the llicaras and Sioux. R. The same as the Wetepahatoes (see page 21, R.) except the Ricaras. S. These differ from the others (viz. Wetepahatoes, Kiawas, Kanenavich, Staetan and Cataka) in as much as they never visit the Ricaras ; in all other respects they arc tlie same, see bottom of page 21, S. A. Dotame. B. Do-ta'-me. C. Dotame. D. * E. F. 10. G. 30. H. 120. I. On the heads of the river Chyenne. J. No trader. K. L. M. N. O. See page 20, O. P. At, or near the mouth of the Chyenne river. TRAVELI IN AMERICA. Q. See page 21, Q. R. See page 21, R. S. The iiifurmatiun I possess, v ith respect to this fiafiori, 19 derived from Indian infortnation : they ure said to be a ¥«andering nation, inhabiting an open country, and who raise a great number of horses and mules. Tliey are a friendl), well disposed people, and might, from the posi- tion of their country, be etnily induced to visit an establish- ment on the Missouri, about the mouth of Chyenne ri- ver. They have not, as yet, visited tlie Missouri. A. Castahana. B. Cas-ta-ha'-na. C. Castahana. D. * E. F. 500. G. 1.300. H. 5.000. I. Between the sources of the Padoucas fork, of the rivers Platte and Yellow Stone. J. No trader K. L. M. N. O. The same as the Chyennes (see page 20, O) and the skins of the lynx, or luuverin, and martens in addition. P. At, or near the mouth of the river Yellow Stone, on the Missouri. Q. A defensive war with the Sioux and Assinniboins. R. See page Ql, R. S. What has been said of the Dotames is applicable to these people, except that they trade principally with the Crow Indians, and that they would most probably prefer visiting an establishment on the Yellow Stone river, or at its mouth on the Missouri. A. Crow Indians. B. Kee'-kat' sfi. C. Gens des Corbeau. D. Minetarrc. £. F. 3.50. G 900. H. 3.600. E F G I J. K O P INTERESTING PARTICULARS. %s ttiori, 19 to be a id ^ho ey arc » he posi- stablisH- ^eiine ri- i II the rivers "5 1 the skins ti. le, on the 1 e to these the Crow fer visiting ; its mouth k On each side of tiie river Yellow Stone, about the mouth of the Big-horn river. No trader. of the river Yellow Stone, on the I. J. K. L. M. N. O. See page 24, O. P. At, or near the mouth Missouri. Q. Defensive with tlic Sioux and Ricarajy. R. The same as the Welepahatocs, (Seepage 21, R.) except the Ricaras. S. These people are divided into four bands, called by them- selves Ahah'-'Ai-ro'-pir-uo-pah, Noo'-ta-, Pa-re«i.s-car, and E-liarl'-sAr. Tlity aujiually visit the Mandans, Minetares, and Ahwahhavvavs, to ^vholn tht y barter horses, mules, leather lodges, and many articles of Indian apparel, for which they receive in return, guns, aninumition, axes, kettles, awls, and other European manufactures. When they return to their country, they are in turn visited by the Paunch and Snake Indians, to whom they barter most of the articles they have obtained from the nations on the Mis- souri, for horses and muleti, of which those nations have a greater abundance than themselves. They also obtain of the Snake Indians, bridle-bits and blankets, and some other arti- cles which those Indians purchase from the Spaniards. The bridle- bits and blankets I have seen in the possession of the Mandnns and Minctares. Their coutUry is fertile, and well watered, and in most parts well timbered. A. Paunch Indians. B. Al-Ia-ka'-we-^h. C. Gensde Pause. D. * E. F. 300. G. 800. H. 2300. On each side of the Yellow Stone river, near the rocky mountains, and heads of the Big-horn river. No trader L. M. N. See page 24, O. P. At, or near the mouth of the river Yellow Stone, on the Missouri. Lewis and Clarke.] b I. J. K. O. > 26 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. Q. Defensive witli the Siuux and Ricarus. R. The same a» the Wetepahaloes (see page 21, U.) except the Ricaras. S. These are said to be u peaceable, well disposed nation. Their country is a variegated one, consisting of mountains, valiies, plains, and wood-lands, irregularly interspersed. They might be induced to visit the Missouri, at the mouth of the Yellow Stone river; and from the great abundance of valuable furred animals which their country, as well as that of the Crow Indians, produces, their trade must be- come extremely valuable. They are a rovhig people, and ha^e no idea of exclusive right to the soil. B. Mti-nc-lo'-pi, C. Gens dcs Cauoc. C I—" 0-se6-gAh Gens des Ice, Mivh'-to,-pa- nd-to. Gens dcs gra able D. grand Di- u ■A a o 1) a. ■y) -a u s o " > ■A g I- i:. F. 100 G. 200 1 00 250 11. /•J 850 200 450 1 .0'OO I. " On tlic blouse river, between liic Assinniboin and the Missouri. From the ISIisouri, about the niovith (»J Little Missouri, to the Assii\niboin, ■at the mouth of Ca- [)cilc river. On tlic Missouri, about the mouth oi the White Earth ri- ver, and on the head of Assinniboin and Capelle rivers. INTKRESTINC PARTICULARS. CONTINUED. '27 I— I B. !Ma-nc-to'-j);j, 0-v,iH';-gali. J. M;'ih'-to,-j)a- iiu-tw. -a 'A •■^ t 5 -3 y. K. Kitiiblishini'Mt'' oil till! Asbiiiiii- Ijuin liver. r.staLlislinipnts nil tlie Absiiini- boin and Ciipcllr riviTS). L. i.500 (i.OOO Ditto, and occa- sionally at the rstablishincntsoii the liviT Sabka-j- liawan. M. 7.000 b'.AOO 8.000 S.OOO N. Ruft'aloe meat dried or pouiul- fd, and grease; in bladders prin- cipally; also, wolves, a few Ix-avor and buf- taluu rubes. CONTINUED. o if. B. -Ma-nc-to'-pa =r 0-sec'-"uii. -Muli'-to-j'A- na-to. O. \\ rJuffaloc robes,' ^ tallow, dried and =; pounded nicat>i md grease, skins' Jj ol' (lie laiue and - small fox, small a and large wolves, i — antelopes, (orca- 'o bri) and elk in threat abundance; also some brown, tvliite and grissly bear, ileer and lynx. Ditto, with more bears and bomo niiirtcn. rt c o Q. Reciprocally with the Sioux ; otiensive with theRicaras,Cas- taliana, Crow, Paunch and Snake Indians, and all those south-'.vest of the Missouri, within their reach. 11. With all their own tribes ; Chris- tenoes(l»ranch of theKniste- naus) and par- tially witli the Chippevvays of Penibena, Alponqiiins, of I'ortajre de Prairie, Man- dans, Mine- tares, and Ahwahhuwas 28 S. TRAVELS IN AMERICA. MANETOPA. f Are the descendants of the OSSEKGAH. > Sioux, and partake of their turbu- Ma II i'( )PA N A TO. \ lent and fuilldess disposition ; they frequently plunder, and soiiietnnes niurwUh ellow Their iioux, liim a coun- ,imber < u. Ojibuway Ditto. Ditto. K At their \i! l:t(;c>iin(i luintinu Camps onihi-.Mis- At ancvtiiblish- llK*i\t on llt>(l lake, and HI tlioir hunt- ing' cunip:i. Kstabllsliinrnt near the niniilli ot Fonibanjir ri- •vor, and at their hunting camps. I I.. M. 2.00V 1(1 000 8.000 7.000 lO.fOO N. Ikavir, ot- ter, black bear, rac- koon, Idx, niuit<*i),iiiiiik, timber, anri dcpr skills Ditto, and bark caiioi's. 10.000 Ditto, prin- ipally, bt-a vor and otter, butnocanoc'N, soniu uolvo- rineundlyn.x. O BravtT, otter, l)lack bo.ir, rac- koon, ^'rcy t'ox, marten, mink, Hsber, iV Mth wolve loie lynx in addition. CONTINUEB. I J. a N w. G,lCoTnpy.| h d |s-l helDitto. lel hd N.W. and X.Y. Compa -nics. i V3 a. 0. < B. Ojibaway. Ditto. Ditto. 1 P. On the north Slide «)t' the Mis- sissippi, at Sandy Lake. On tlie Red Lake, near tlie head of the Mis- si!>^ippi. On the Red river of Lake Winnipie, about the mouth of the Assinniboin river. Q. With all the tribes of Sion.x, Saukees, lleiiars, and Ayouwais. '.The Sioux only, t The Sioux, and partially with the Asbiniiiboins. U. AH the tribes of Chippeways, and the nations] inhabiting lakes Superior, Michi- ijHn.and the coun- try east of the Mississippi. Ditto, and^vith the rhristen«)cs and Algonquins. so TRAVELS IN AMERICA. I S. CHrPPEWAYS, of Leach Lake. Claim the country on both sides of the Mississippi, from the mouth of the Crow- wing river lo its source, and extending west of the Mississippi to the lands claimed by the Sioux, with whom they still contend for dominion. They claim, also, east of the Mississippi the country extending as far as lake Superior, including the waters of the river St. Louis. This country is thickly covered with timber generally ; lies level, and generally fertile, though a con- siderable proportion of it is intersected and broken up by small lakes, morasses and swamps, particularly about the heads of the Mississippi and river St. Louis. They do not cultivate, but live principally on the wild rice, which they procure in great abundance on the borders of Leach Lake and the banks of the Mississippi. Their number has been considerably reduced by small pox. Their trade is at its gre"test exteiit. Of Red Lake. Claim the country about Red lake and Red lake river, as far as the Red river of lake VV'innipie, beyond which last river they contend with the Sioux for territory. This is a low level country, and generally thickly covered v.ith tim- ber, interrupted with many swamps and morasses. This, as well as the other bands of Chippeways, are esteemed the best hunters in the north-west country ; but from the long residence Oi" this band in the country they now inhabit, game is becoming scarce, therefore their trade is supposed to be at its grcatesst ex- tent. The Chippeways are a well disjiosed people, but cxces- {jively fond of spirituous liquor. Of liver Pembena. The:se people formerly resided on the east side of the Mississippi, at Sand lake, but were induced, by the north-west company, to remove, about two years since, lo the river Pembena. They do not claim the lands on which they hunt. 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Christenoes or Kuistenaus. B. Cliri8-'te-no. C. Cree. D. Chippeways, with a different accent, and many words pecu- liar to themselves. E. F. 150. G. 300. H. 1,000. I. On the heads of the Assinniboin, and thence towards the Saskashawan. J. Hudson's Bay, N. W. and X. Y. companies. K. Establishments on the Assinniboin, Swan Lake river and the Saskasbawan. L. 15,000. M. 15,000. N. Beaver, otter, lynx, wolverine, marten, mink, wolf, small fox (or kitts) dressed elk and moose deer skins. O. The skins of the beaver, otter, lynx, wolf, wolverine, marten, mink, small fox, brown and grizzly bear, dressed elk uud moose-deerskins, muskrat skins, and some butiCaloe rubes, dried meat, tallow and grease. P. On the Missouri, at or near the mouth of the Yellow Stone river. Q. With the Siouxs, Fall, Blood, and Crow Indians. li. With the Assinniboins, Algonquins, Cliippeways, Manduns, Mmatares and Ahwahhaways. S. They are a wanderinii^ nution ; do not cultivate, nor claim any particular tract of country. They are woll disposed towards the whites, and treat their traders wilh i .spect. The country in which they love is generally open plains, but in some parts, particularly about the head of the As- sinniboin river, it is marshy, and tolerably well furnished with timber, as are also the Fort Dauphin mountains, to which they sometimes resort. From the quunfuy of beaver in their country, they ought to furnish more of that article than they do at present. They are not esteemed good beaver hunters. I'hey might probably be induced to visit an establishment on the Missouri, at the Yellow Stone river. Their number has been re- duced, by the small pox, since they were iirst known to the Canadians. A. Fall Indians. B. A-l'^n-sr. J-EWIS AND CLARKE.] 34 C. D. E. V. G. H. J. J. K. L. ;!vi. o. TRAVELS IN AMERICA. Fall Indians. Minetare. 260. 660. 2.500. On the head of the south fork of the Saskshawan river, and some streams supposed to be branches of the Missouri. N. W. company. Upper establishment on the Saskashawan ; but little trade. 1 .000. 4.000. Beaver and marten. Skins of the beavers, brown, while and grizzly bear, large and small foxes, muskrat, marten, mink, lynx, wolverine, wolves, white hares, deer, elk, moose-deer, antelopes of the Missouri, and some buffaloe. At or near the falls of the Missouri. Defensive war with the Christenoes. The country these people rove in is not much known : il is said to be a high, broken, woody country. They might be induced to visit an establishment at the falls of the Missouri : their trade may, no doubt, be made profitable. A. Cattanahaws. B. Cat-tan-a-haws. C. Cattanahaws. F. G. H. P. Q. R. S. D. E. I. Between the Saskashawan and the Missouri, on ^yaters su^y posed to be of the Missouri. J. No trader. K. L. M, N. p. See above, O. P. At, or near the falls of the Missouri. Q. R. S. What has been said, of the Fall Indians is, in all respects, applicable to this nation. They are both wandering m-t tions. A. Black-foot Indians. B. C. Blackfoot Indians. p. * E. F. G. H. ver, and louri. trade. ir, large alverine, lopes of vn': It is iy might s of the ii table. rs supi aspects, ing ua>( INTEHESTING PARTICULARS 35 I. Between the Saskasliawan and the Missouri, on water sup- posed to be of the Missouri. J. No trader. K. L. M. N. O. See page 34, O. P. At, or near the falls of the Missouri. Q. R. S. See page 34, S. '* t At Blue Mud and Long Hair Indians. «. C. Blue Mud and Long Hair Lidtans. D. * E. F. G. H. I. West of the Rocky mountains, and near the same on Nea- ter courses supposed to be branches of the Columbia river. J. No trader. K. L. M. N. O. Not known, but from the position of their country supposed to abound in animals similar to those mentioned in page P. Q. R. S. Still less is known of tliese people, or their country. The water courses on which they reside, are supposed to be branches of the Cohunbia river. They are wandering nations. A. B. C D. E. I. J. K. O. P. Q. R. S. Flatheads, Tut-see'-w^s. Flathead Indians. F. G. PL On the west side of a large river, lying west of the Rocky mountains^ and running north, supposed to be the south fork of the Columbia river. No trader. L. M. N. See above, O. Defensive war -with the Minetar«ir. The information I possess with respect to these people hag been received from the Minetares, who have extended their war excursions as far westerlv as that nation, of whom X > '1 S6 TRAVKLS IN AMERICA. ' ! tliey have made several prisoners, and brought them with f them to their vili.ij^i s on the Missouri: these prisoners 1 have been seen hy the Fn iichmen tesidni*; in this neighbour- ■ 1 hood. The Minttares state, that this nation resides in one village on the west side of a large and rapid river, which runs from south to north, ahmg the foot of the Rocky mountains on tiieir west side ; and that this river passes at a sniult distance from the three forks of the Missouri. ji .. '1 That the country between the mountains and the river is M broken, but on the opposite side of the river it is an exten- 8 ' sive open plain, with a number of barren sandy hills, irre- ,11 : gularly distributed over its surface as far as the eye can \^,< ' reach. They are a timid, inoffensive, and defeocelesg 1 people. They are said to possess an abundance of horses. / } B. C. D. E. F. G. H. L Snake Indians. So-so-na'. So-so-bfi, & I'a-kir. Gens des Serpent. '1 .2 Among the Rockymountains, on the heads ofthe 1 1 ■• * Missouri, Yellow Stone, and Platte \ 1 1 rivers. ^ 1 cr» i' 1 S Of the West. A-li-a-tdn. Aliatd. • Among the ^ .2 Rocky mountains, 1 3 < and in the plains 1 "^ at the heads of • the Platte and ^* ■ 3 2 Arkansas rivers. La Plays. La Plays. • c CO .2 o S zs c > The mountains on the borders of New Mexico, and the extensive 1 plains atthc heads of the Arkansas I 1 • 1 and Red rivers. 1 1 \ < < < I ' (I with oners bour- n one \liicli locky les at souri. ver is ixten- irre- e can celesi rses. g the lountains, ?ads ofthe i, Yellow nd Platte g the )untains, le plains leads of te and rivers. 3untains rders of CO, and tensive le heads rkansas ivers. I INTEltESTING PARTICULARS. CON'TIVUF.n. 37 < < Snake Indians Of the West. La Plays. J. o "/; !/5 3 N. O. The same with thr Fa i l,Cattaiuiha\vsun(i IJIack Foot Indians, I'xccpt buffaUu's ; but they have in adtlition immense quantities ot horstos, mules anu assi's. Immense quanti> tics of horses, mules, iisses, bufi'uloc, deer, elk, black bear, and large iiares; and iu the northern regions of their country, bi^ horn and Missouri intclopes,with many animals of the fur kind. I Snake Indians. < :^ Ofthe West. La Plays. P. At or near the Falls of the Mis- souri. On the Arkan sas, as high up as possible, itwould be best that it should be west of the Kansas, if it should be neces- sary even to sup ply it some dis- tance by land. Q. Defensive war vith the Ricaras, Sioux.Assinniboinj:, Christenoes, Mine- tares, Ahwahhaways, and all the nations inhabiting theSask- ashawan river. Defensive war with the Great and Little Osages, Pa- iiiapique, Kansas, Pania Proper, Pa nia Republican, Pa- nia Loups, Ricaras, and Sioux. Mandans and CrowIndianSf and all those whudc not attack them At peace wilnE all who do noli wage war agains? them. .IB TRWKLS IN AMmcA. 111 |i i. f I ''\ S. j'VLlATANS, S/i(if;r Indidus. Tlicso arc a very numer- ous and well dispoxt il pcoplf, iiiiKihiiiii;; a >voody and uioun- tninous country; \\\vy arc (li\id«d into three larp;e tribes*, \\l»o wander a consid»»rable distance lioni eacli ollnr; and are called by themselves Soso-na, So-so'hii-har, and I a-kar ; these are again subdivided into .snudler iIi(mi<:;Ii iiidi ])< iidcnt bands, thv names of which I have nol \ct learnt; tluyrr.isi'aninnber ol' horses aitd mules which they triule willi iIk^ Crow Indians, or are .sto- Je'i by the nations on the east of tlicin. 'I'hey maintain a par- tial trade with the Sj),'.niards, tVom whom thi-y obtain many arti- cles of cloatliin<^ and ironmon<;ery, but no warlike iin|> lements. Of the U est. 'J'lu se people also inhabit a mountainous country, and sonu times vculure In the plains east ol' the Uocky inountaius, about liie hi ad of the Arkansas river. Tiiey liavc more intercgurse with the Spaniards of New Mexico, than the Snake Indians. 'J'hev are said to be very numerous and war- like, but are badly armed. The Spaniards fear these pef)p.le, and ihereforo lake the preeaullon nol to furnish them with any varliko implements. In their present wnarnied state, ihey fre- quently commit hoitllilics on the Spaniards. They raise a great many horses. L(t i'7<> arc siid t(» hv a well dispocd iuh.mIo, aiul inhabit a vnv ftililr couiilry ; ccituin il is tluil llity enjoy a clcli^litiul clnnulc. A. Patlaciis. B. C. D. K. M. S. I .a. Paddo. # F. G H. I. J. K. L. i\. O. P. Q. It. This once powerfnl nation has, appanntly, rntii( Iv di.s;ip- peared ; every intiniry I have niadL' after th( ni has proved inetVcctnal. In the year 1724, ihey resided in several vil- lages on ihe heads of the Kansas river, and conid, at that time, bring npwards of two tlionsaiid nieii into the tield (see Mons. Dupral/ history of l^onisiania.pap;c71, and the map attached to tliat work). The information that I have re- ceived is, that being oppressed by the nations residinjj on the Missouri, they removed to the upper part of the river Platte, where they afterwards had but little intercourse with the whites. They seem to have given name to the northern branch of that river, which is still c.dled the Paducas fork. 'I'he n'ost probable conjecinre is, that being still further reduced, they have divided i>ito small wandering bands, which assumed the nanus of the subdivisions of the Padu- cas nation, and are known to us at present under the apjiel- lation of Wetepahatoes, Kiawas, Kauenavish, Katteka, JDotamc, &,c. who still inhabit the country to which the Paducas are said to have renuned. 'i'he majority of my information led me to believe that those people spoke dif- ferent languages, but other and subsequent iuibimation has induced ine to doubt the fact. /? II ! i '■ ;jc» HISTORICAL SKETCHES OP THE SEVERAL INDIAN TRIBES IN LOUISIANA, SOUTH OF THE ARKANSA RIVER, AND BETWEEN THE MISSISSIPPI AND RIPER GRjyD. C ' ADDOQUES, live about 35 mile* west of the main branch of Red river, on a bayau or creek, called by them Sodo, wliich is navigable f >r perocjues only within about six miles of their village, and that only hi the rainy season. Tliey are distant from Natchitoches about 1 '20 miles, the nearest route by land, and in nearly a north-west direction. They have lived where they now do only five years. The first year they moved there the small pox got amongst thcni and destroyed nearly one half of them ; it was in the winter season, and they practised plunging into the creek on the first appearance of the eruption, and died in a few hours. Two years ago they had the measles, of which several more of them died. They formerly lived on the south bank of the river, by the course of the river 373 miles higher up, at a beautiful prairie, which has a clear lake of good water in the middle of it, surrounded by a pleasant and fertile country, which had been the residence of their ancestors from time imme- morial. They have a traditionary tale which not only the Caddos, but half a dozen other smaller nations believe in, who claim the ho- nour of being descendants of the san)e family : they say, when all the world was drowned by a Rood that inundated the whole country, the great spirit placed on an eminence, near this lake, one family of Caddoques, who alone were saved ; from that fa- mily all the Indians originated. The French, for many years before Louisiana was transferred to Spain, had, at this place, a fort and some soldiers ; several French families were likewise settled in the vicinity, where they had erected a good flour mill with burr stones brought from FVance. These FVench families continued there till about 25 years ago, when they moved down and settled at Campti, on the Red river, about 20 miles above Natchitoches, where they now Q \ INDIAN TRIBES IN LOUISIANA. 4i. ANA, iXD. lin branch io, Nvliich s of their >tant from iund, and liere they there the le half of plunging and died of M'hich luth bank up, at a er in the y, which imnie- dos, but the ho- , when whole his lake, that fa- nsferred several ere they it from )out 25 on the ey now Jive : and the Indians i»?ft it about 14 years ago, on account of a dreadful sickness that visited tiiem. They settled on the rivt r nearly opposite where they now li\e, on a low plate, but were driven thence on account of its overflowing, occa- sioned by a jam of timber choaking the river at a point below them. The whole number of what they call warriors of the ancient Caddo nation, is now reduced to about 100, who are looked upon somewhat like knights of Malta, or some distinguished mi- litary order. They are brave, d« .spise danger or dcatli, and boast that they have neter shed white man's blood. Besides these, there are of old men and strangers who live amongst them, nearly the same number, but there arc 40 or oO move women than men. This nation has great influence over the Yattassees, ^andakoes, Nabadaches, Inits or Yaciiios, Nagogdociies. Key- chies, Adaize and Natchitoches, who all speak the Caddo lan- guage, look up to them as their fathers, visit and intt;rmarry among them, and join them in ail their wars. The Caddoques complain of the Choctaws incroacliing upon their country ; call them lazy, thievish, &.c. lliere has be«;n a misunderstanding between ihem for several years, ami small hunting parties kill one another when they meet. The Caddos raise corn, beans, pumpkins, &c. ; but the land on which they now live is prairie, of n white clay soil, very flat : their crops are siibjcct to injury cither by too wet or too dry a season. They have horses, but few cf any other domestic ani- mal, except dogs ; most of them have guns, and some have rifles : they, and all other Indians tliat we have any knowledge of, are at Mar with the Osages. The country, generally, round the Caddos is hilly, not very rich; growth a mixture of oak, hickory, and pine, inter- spersed with prairies, which are very rich generally, and tit for cultivation, 'Inhere are creeks and springs of good water freqjient. YATTASSEES, live on Bayau Pierre (or Stony creek), which falls into lied river, western division, about 50 miles above K^atchitoches. Their village is in a large prairie, about half way between the Caddoques and Natchitoches, surrounded by a set- tlement ct French families. The Spanish government at pre- sent exercise jurisdiction over this settlement, where they keep a guard of a non-cymini««!cned oificer and eight soldiers. A few months igo, the Caddo chief, with a few of his young men, were coming to this place to trade, and came that way which is the usual road. The Spanish oflScer of the guard threatened to stop them from trading with the Americans, and I^EWIS AND CLARK r:.] F 4^ TRAVELS IN AMERICA. l! !i told the chief if he returned that way with the goods he should take them from him. The chief and his party were very an<;ry, and threatened to kill the whole guard, and told them that that road had been {jlways theirs, and that if the Spaniards attempted to prevent their using it as their ancestors had always done, he would soon make it a bloody road. He came here, purchased the j^oods he wanted, and might have returned another way and avoided the Spanish guard, anil was advised to do so ; but he said lie would pass by them, and let them attempt to stop him if they dared. The guard said nothing to him as he returned. This settlement, till some few years ago, used to belong to the district of Natchitoches, and the rights to their lands given by the government of Louisiana, before it was ceded to Spain. Its now being under the government of Taxus, was only an agree- ment between the commandant of Natchitoches and the com- mandant of Nagogdoches. The French formerly had a station and factory there, and another on the Sabine river, nearly one hundred miles north-west from the Bayau Pierre settlement. The Yuttassees now say the French used to be their people, and now die Americans. But of the ancient Yattassees there are but eight men remain- ing, and t\ventv-ilve women, besides children; but a number of men of other nations have intermarried vviih them and live toge- ther. 1 paid a visit at their village last summer; there were about forty men of them all together : their orignial language dif- fers from any other, but pow all speak Caddo. They live on rich land, raise plenty of corn, beans, pumpkins, tobacco, 8cc. ; have horses, cattle, hogs and poultry. NAN DAKOFilS, live on the t^abine river, HO or 70 miles to the westward of the Yattassees, near where the F'rench formerly had a station and factory. Their langi{age is Caddo, about 40, men only of them remaining. A few years agi they suffered very much by the small pox. They consider themselves the same as Caddos, with whom they intermarry, and are, occasion- ally, visiting one another in the greatest harmony : have the same manners, customs, and attachments. ADAlZE, live about 40 miles from Natchitoches, below the Yattassees, on a lake called Lac Macdon, which communicates wiiji t}ie division of Red river that passes by Bayau Pierre, 'i'hey live at or near where their ancestors have lived from time immemorial. They being the nearest nation to the old Spanish fort, or Mission of Adaize, that place was named after them, beinj; about 20 miles from them, to the south. There are now but -0 "len of them remaining, but more women. Their lan- I'o ( ificrs from all other, and is so difficult to spe:ik or uuJer- gu ^■. ' it. INDIAN TRIBES IN LOUISIANA. 43 )e, he >w the licatos ierre. tiititi janish them, 3 now r hm- iiiJer- stand, that no nation can speak ten words of it ; but they all speak Caddo, and most of them French, to. whom they were al- ways attached, and joined them agains the Natchez Indians. After tlie massacre of Natchez, in 1798, while the Spaniards occupied the post of Adaize, their priests took much pains tt> proselyte these Indians to the Roman Catholic religion, but, I uni informed, were totally unsuccessful. ALICHE (commonly pronounced Eyeish), live near Nacog- doches, but are almost extinct, as a nation, not more than ^.5 souls of them remaining : four years ago the small pox destroyed the greater part of them. They were, some years ago, a consi- derable nation, and lived on a bnyau which bears their name, which the road from Natchitoch to Nacogdoches crosses, about 12 miles west of Sabine river, on which a ft w French and Ame- rican families are settled. Their native language is spoken by no other nation, but they speak and understand Caddo, with whom they are in amity, oft'^n visiting one another. KEYES, or KEYCHIES, live on the east bank of trinity river, a small distance above where the road from Natchitoches to St. Antoinc crosses it. There arc of them GO men : have their peculiar native language, but mostly now speak Caddo ,- intermarry with them, and live together in much harmony, for- merly having lived near them, on the head waters of the Sabine. Thev plant corn and some other vegetables. INIES, or TACHIES (called indifferently by both names). From the latter name the name of the province of Tachus or Taxus is derived. The Inies live about 26 miles west of Nat- chitoches, on a small river a branch of Sabine, called the Naches. They are like all their neighbours, diminishing ; but have now 80 men. Their ancestors, for a long time, lived w here they now do. Their language the same as that of the Caddos, with whom they are in great amity. These Indians have a good chuiacter, live on excellent land, and raise corn to sell. NABEDACHES, live on the west side of the same river, about iifteen miles above them ; have about the same number of nHhi; speak the same language; live on the best of land; raise corn in plenty; have the same manners, customs and altuch- ments. BE DIES, are on the Trinity river, about 60 mile? to tlie southward of Niicogdochcs ; have 100 men; are good hunt<'r.-» for deer, vvhicli are very large and plenty about them; hlani^ and make good crops of corn; langua'jjje diiTers from all other, but sptak Caddo; are a peaceable, quiet people, and base au «xcel!ent cliaractf r for their honesty and puiu'tuallly. ACCOKESAWS. Their ancient t'.>v.u iMid principal plaof r '?. 44 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. i lii: Ill of rcsirloncp is on the west side of Col< rado or Rio Rouge, about 200 miles soiilli-west of Nacosidoihts, but often clianse their place of I esideuee for a sctison ; b; inc near the bay, make great use of fish, oysters, &c. kid a ureat many de( r, which are the largest and fattest ill tlie province ; and their rounlry is univer- sally said to be ijiferior to no part of the province in soil, provrth of timber, g0(>«lne.ss of water, and beauty of surface; have a languajie peculiar to themselves, but have a mode of communi- cation by dumb signs, which they all understand; number about 80 men. Thirty or forty years ago the Spaniards had a mission herej but broke it up, or moved it to Nacogdoches". Tiiey talk of resettling it, and speak in the highest terms of the country. MAYES, live on a lar<:;c creek called St. Gabriel, on the bay of St. Bernard, near the mouth of Guadaloupe river : are estimated at 200 men ; never at peace with the Spaniards, to- wards whom they are said to possess a fixed hatred, but profess great friendship for the French, to whom they have been strongly attached since Mons. de Salle landed in their neigh- bourhood. The place where there is a talk of the Spaniards opening a new port, and making a settlement, is near them ; where the party, with the governor of St. Antoine, who were there last fall to examine it, say they found the remains of a French block-house ; some of the cannon now at Labahie are said to have been brought from that place, and known by the engravings now to be seen on them. The French speak highly of these Indians for their extreme Vindness and hospitality to all Frenchmen who have been amongst them : have a language of their ow n, but speak Attakapa, which is the language of their neighbours the Carankouas ; they have likewise a way of conversing by signs. CARANKOUAS, live on an island, or peninsula, in the bay of St. Bernard, in length about ten miles, and five in breadth ; the soil is extremely rich and pleasant ; on one side of which there is a high bluff, or mountain of coal, which has been on fire for many years, affording always a light at night, and a strong, thick smoke by d.iv, by which vessels are soinetimes^e- ceived and lost on the shoaly coiist, which shoals are said to ex- tend nearly out of sight of land. From this burning coal there i? emitted a gummy sulistance the Spaniards call '•/icki, which isi thrown on the shore by the surf, and collected by them in consi-. derable (juantities, which they are fond of chewing ; it has the appearance and consistence of pitch, of a strong, aromatic, an(| not disagiceable smell. These InduMis arc iirccoiicileable ene- inies to the Spaniards, always at war with then, and kiil-them whenever ihcvcan. The Spaniards call th-ni cannibals, but the ;•' INDIAN TRIBES IN LOUISIANA. 45 French give them a different character, uho have always been treated kindly by them since Mons. de Salle and his party were in the neighbourhood, '1 hey are siiid to be oOO men strong, but I have not been able to estimate their numbers from any very accurate information ; in a short time expect to be well informed. Tlicy speak the Attakapa lunjvuafre ; are friendly and kind to all other Inrtinns, and, I presiuhc, are much like all others, not- \vithstanding what the Spaniards buy of them, for nature ig every where the same. Last summer an old Spaniard came to me from Labaliie, a journey of abotit 500 miles, to have a barbed arrow taken out of his shoulder, that one of these Indians had shot in it. I found it under his shoulder-blade, near nine itielies, anil had to ( nt a new place to |>et at the point of it, in order to get it out the contrary way from that in which it had entered : it was made of a piece of an iron hoop, with wings like a fluke and au inche. CANCES, are a very numerous nation, consistins; of a jireat many different tribes, occupying different {>arts of the country, from the bay of St. Bernard, cross river Grand, towards La Vera Cruz. " They are not friendly to the Spaniards, and gene- rally kill them Avhen they have an opportunily. 'J iiey are at- tached to the French; are good liunterf?, prineipaily using the bow. They are very particular in their dress, wliich is made of neatly dressed leather ; the women wear a long loose robe, re- sembling that of a Franciscan friar ; nolliing biii iheir heads and feet are to be seen. The dress of the nu n is straiiiht leather leg- gings, resembling pantaloons, and a leather hunting shirt, or frock. No estimate can be made of their nuuiher. Thirty or forty years ago the Spaniards used to make slaves of them when they could take them ; a considerable nundjer of them were brought to Nalehitoehes aiid soid to i!ie French in- habitants at 40 or 50 dollars a head, and a nu;:iber of them are Ktill living here, but are now free. About 20 yours ago an oj (kr came from the king of Spain that no more JiHlians should be made slaves, and those that were enslaved slu>Uid be etnanci- pated ; after which some of die w omen w ho had been servants in good famihes, and taught spinning, sewing, &.e. as well as ma- naging household affairs, married inaitilis of t]ie country, and became respectable, well behaved women, and have now grow- ing up decent families of children : h:ive a langua'/e pccuii;n- to themselves, and are und'M-stood, by signs, l)y a!l otlieis. 'I'hey are in amitv with all other Indians except the Hictans. TANKAWAYS (or TANKS, as the French cail them) have no land, nor claim the exclusive right to any, nor have any par- ticular place of abode, but are always moving, aite:nately occu- 5 4(3 TRAVELS ^N AMEHICA. pying die country watered by the Trinity, Braces and Ci)IeraJy, towards St. a ¥6. llesemble, in their dress, the Camos aiul Uietans, but all in one horde or tribe. Their nunibc r of nwn is estimated at about 200 ; arc good hunters ; kill bulTaloe and deer with the bow ; have the best breed of horses ; are alter- nately friends and enemies of the Spaniards. An old trader lately informed me that he had received oOOO deerskins from them in one year, exclusive of tallow, rugs and tongues. They plant nothing but live upon wild fruits and flesh : are strong, athletic people, and excellent horsemen. TAWAKENOES, or TIJUEE CANES. They are culled by both names indifferently ; live on the west side of the Braces, but are often, for some months at a time, lower down than their usual place of residence, in the great prairie at the Tortuga, or Turtle, called so from its being a hill in the prairie, which, at a distance, appears in the form of a turtle, upon which there are some remarkable springs of water. Their usual residence is about '200 miles to the westward of Nacogdoches, towards St. a Fe. They are estimated at £00 men: are good hunters ; have guns, but hunt principally with the bow : are supplied wuh goods from Nacogdoches, and pay for them in rugs, tongues, tallow and skins. They speak the same language of the Pani-;, or Towiaches, and pretend to have descended from the same PAN IS, or TO\yi ACHES. The French call them Pauls, and the Spaniards Towiaches ; the latter is tlic proper Indian name. They live on the south bank of Red river ; by the course of the river upwards of 800 miles above Natchitoches, and by land, by the nearest path, is estimated at about 340. Tiiey have two towns near together ; the lower town, w here the chiaf lives, is called Niteheta, and the other is called Towaahaeii. They call their present chief the Great Bear. They are at way with the Spaniards, but friendly to those I'Vench and American hunters who have lately been among them. They are likewise at war with the Osages, as are every other nation. For many hundreds of miles round them, the country is rich prairie, cover- ed with luxuriant grass, which is green summer and winter, with skirts of wood on the river bank, by the ifprings and creeks. '1 i.ey have many horses and mules. They raise more com, piimpkins, beans and tobacco, than they want for their own. consumption; the surplusage they exclvango with the Ilietansfor buffaloe, rugs, horses and mules : the pumpkins they eut round in their shreads, and when it is in a state of dryness I'lat it is so tough it will not bieak, but bend, they plait and work it into large mats, in which slate they sell it to the llit;tans, who, as they travel, cut oft' and eat it as they want it. I'lieir tobacco vv "It INDIAN TRIBES IN LOUISIANA. 47 Pauls, ludiau course aiul by They e cliifsf iialuich. at wwv iiericjm ikewise many cover- witii com, |r owo. uis lor round it is so It iiitt> 11 o, as [bacco tbey mnnufacture and cut as fine as tea, uhich is put into leather bajis of a certain sizv, and is likewise an article ot" trade. They have but few guns, and very little ammunition; what they have thev Iviep for war, and hunt with the bow. Their meat is prin- cipally bidl'aloe ; seldonj kill a deer, though they are so plenty they conu' into their viliaj^es, and about their houses, like a do- mestic animal : elk, bear, wolves, antelope and wild hogs are hkewise plenty in heir country, and white rabbits, or hares, as uell as the common rabbit: white bears so' 2times come dowa amongst them, \x\\(\ wolves of all colours. The men generally go entirely naked, and the women nearly so, only wearing a small liap of a piece of a skin. They have a number of Spaniard:* amongst them, of fair complexion, taken from die settlement of St. a Fe, when they were children, who live as they do, and have no know ledge of w here they came from. Their language differs from that of any other nation, the Tawakenocs excepted. Their pres<^nt number of men is estinialed at about 400. A great number of them, four years ago, were swept off by the hinall-pox. HiLyrANS, or Comanches, who are likewise called by both names, have no fixed place of residence ; have neither tow ns nor vil!ag(\s ; divided hito so many different hordes or tribes, that thev have scarcely anv knowleda;e of one another. T^o estimate of then- numbers can well be made. They never remain iu the same place more than a few days, but follow the buffaloe, the flesh of which is dieir principal food. Some of tliein occasion- ally purchase of the Panis, corn, beans and pumpkins ; but they are so numerous, any quantity of ihpse articles the Panis are able to supply them wiUi, must make but a small proportion of their food. They have tents matle of neatly dressed skins, fashioneil in form of a cone, suflicicnlly roomy for a family of ten or twelve persons ; those of the chiefs will contain occasion- ally .50 or 6o persons. When they stop, their tents are pitched in very exact order, so as to forni regular streets and squares, which in a few minutes has the a;)pearance of a town, r.iistd, as it were, by inchantment : and they are equally dexterous in strik- ing their tents and preparing for a march when the signal is given; to every tent two horses or mules are allotted, one to carry the tent, and another the poles or sticks, which are neatly made of red cedar ; they all travel on hor^)eback. Their horses ihey never turn loose to graze, but always keep them tied with a long cabras or halter ; and every two or three days they are obliged to iiiove on account of all the grass near them being enten up, they liave such numbers of horses. They are good horsemen and have good horses, most of which are bred by theniselves, antl being accusloincd from when very voung to be handled, thev arc II 48 THAVELS IN AMERICA. remarkatil}' docile and gentle. They sometimes catch wild horses, which are every wlicu" jimongst tiietn in immense droves. They hunt down the biift'alnc on horseback, and kill them cither with the bow or a sharp stick like a spear, which they carry iii their hands. They are generally at war with the Spaniards, often committing depredations upon the inhabitants of St. a Fe and St. Antoine ; but have always been friendly and civil to any French or Americans who have been amongst them. They are strong and athletic, and the elderly men as fat as though they had lived upon English beef and porter. It is said the man who kills a bnffuloe, catches the blood and drinks it while warm ; they likewise eat the liver raw, before it is cold, an«I use the gaul by way of sauce. They are, for savages, uncommonly cleanly in their persons : the dress of the women is a long, loose robe, that reaches from their thin to the ground, tied round with a fancy sash, or girdle, all made of neatly dressed leather, on which they paint figures of difterent colours and signi- fications : the dress of the men is, close leather pantaloons, and a Iiunting shirt, or frock of the same. They never remain long enough in the same place to plant any thing : the snjall Cayenne pepper grows spontaneously in the country, with which and some wild herbs and fruits, particularly a bean that grows in great plenty on a small tree resembling a willow, called maskelo, the women cook their bufl'aloe beef in a manner that would be grate- ful to an English 'squire. They alternately occupy the immense space of country from the Trinity and Braces, crossing the Ked river, to the heads of Arkansaand Missouri, to river Grand, and beyond it, about St. a Fe, and over the dividing ridge on the waters of the Western ocean, where they say they have seen large pcroques, with masts to them ; in describing which, they make a drawing of a ship, with all its sails and rigging ; and they describe a place where they have seen vessels ascenditig a river, over which was a draw-bridge that opened to give them a pas- sage. Their n;ttive language of sounds differs from the language of any oUier nation, and none can cither speak or understand it ; but they have a language by signs that all Indians understand, and by which they converse much among themselves. They have a number of Spanish men and women among them, who are slaves, and who they made 'prisoners when youno-, An elderly gentleman now living at Natchitoches, who, some years ago, carried on a trade with the Hietans, a few days ago related to me the foliovAing story ; About 20 years ago a parly of these Indians passed over the river Grand to Chewawa, the residence of the governor-general of what is called the five internal provinces ; lay in ambush for an opportunity, and made prisoner the governor's daughter, i\ yayenne td some n great ;to, the e grate- nmeiise lie Ked nd, and on the seen they d they river, pas- nguage lud it ; stand, They , who some lys ago )vcr the general ush tor ,hter, i\ a II INDIAN TRIOF.S IN LOUISIANA. iO young U^ly going in \\ci- c(>»ch to mass, and broiiglit Ucr otF- 'J'he governor sent a niuvstige to him (my informant) with » thou- HiMfJi (ioUvrst, for the pvM p^^v <4 recovering his diuighter : \\c im- UH'diattily dispatclted a co^^<.l now situated, which {o^ its name from theni. An elderly French gentleman, lately inl^)rmed me, he remembered when they were (JOO nien strong. I believe it is now 98 years since U)e l'rcrK:h imt established themselves at Natchitoch ; «n'er ^iuce, those Indinns have been their steady and failhful fnendi^. Afler the inasaacre of the French inhabitants of Nat- <:hez, by the Natchez Indians, in 17'28, those Indians lied from the French, after being reinforced, and came up Ucd river, and cam|>ed about six njiles below ijio town of Natchitoches, near the river, by the pide «if a small lake of clear water, and erected a mound of considerable size, where it now remains. JSIonsienr St. J^ennie, a French Canadian, was then commandant ;U Nat- chitoches ; tlje Indians called him the Big Foot, Mere fond of him, for lie was a brave man. St. Dcnnie, with a few Frencli j, aiui what militia he could nnistcr, joined by the Nat- chitoches Indians, attacked the Natches in their camp, early in the morning ; they defended tlu.mselves desperately for six hour.s-, lsi!l were at length totally defeated by St. Dennie, and what of duMn that were not killed in battle, were drove into the lake, where the last of them perished, and the Natchez, as u nation, U'came extjnd. The .lake is now called by no other name than the Natphez lake. There are now remaining of the Nat- chilQches, but i'2 men and *]f) women, who live in a village about 2.5 miles by land above the tow n which bears their nanu^ near a lake, called by the French Lac de Miiiic. Tiivir origi- LKWIS AND CLAiiKi:.] CJ 60 TRAVELS IN AMliUlCA. nal language " tlie same as the Yattassce, hut speak Cuddo, and most of thcin French. The French inhabitants Iiavc great respect for this nation, and ^number of veiT decent famihes have a mixture of their blood in Ipcm. Tliey claim but a .small tract of land, on which they live, and I am informed, have the same ri«;hts to it from government, that other inhabitants in their neighbourhood have. They are gradually wasting away; the small-pox has been their great de- stroyer. They still preserve their Indian dress and habits ; raise corn and those vegetables connnon in their neighbourhood. BOLUXAS, are emij;raMls from near Pensacola. They came to Red river about 4'2 years ago, with some French fami- lies, who left that country about the time Pensacola was taken possession of by the English. They were then a considerable numerous tribe, and have generally embraced the Roman Ca- tholic religion, and were ever highly e8teen)cd by the French. They settled first at Avoyall, then moved higher up to Ra- pide Bayau, and from thence to the mouth of iligula de IJon- dieu, a division of Red river, about 40 miles below Natchitoch, where they now live, and are reduced to about .30 in number. Their native language is jjeculiar to themselves, but speak Mo- bilian, which is spoken by all the Indians from the east side of Mississippi. They are honest, harmless and friendly people. A PPA LACHES, are likewise emigrants from West Florida, from oft' the river, whose name they bear ; camo over to Red river about the same time ihe Boluxas did, and have, ever since, lived on the river, above Bayau Rapide. No nation has been more highly esteemed by the French inhabitants ; no complaints against them are ever heard ; there are only 14 men remaining ; have their own language, but speak French and Mobilian. ALLIBAM IS, are likewise from West Florida, off the Alli- bami river, and came to Red river about the same time of tho Boluxas and Appalachcs. Part of tbem have lived on Red river, about l(i miles above the Bayau Rapide, till last year, when most of this party, of about 30 men, went up Red river, and have settled themselves near the Caddoques, where, I am informed, they last year made a good crop of corn. The Cad- dos are friendly to them, and have no objection to their settling there. They speak the Creek and Chactaw languages, and Mo- bilian ; most of them F>ench, and some of them English. There is another p:uty of them, whose village is on a small creek, in Appelousa district, about 30 miles north west from the church of Appelousa. They consist of about 40 men. They have lived at the same place ever since they came from F'lorida ; ,'ue said to be increasing a little in numbers, for a few years past,v il // !ND!AN tribes in LOUISIANA. 51 do, und on, and ^lood ill liey live, rnnient, L'hcy are reat (le- ts ; raise 3d. . They ch fami- as taken jitlerahle man Ca- Frencli. I to Ru- de 13on- :chitocli, number, oak Mo- it side of fople. [ Florida, to lied cr since, has been in plaints naining ; in. the xMli- of the on Red st year, d liver, le, I am ihe Cad- settling laid Mo- Ih. a small Ifroni the i;hey riorida ; jars past,v Hicy raise coin, have horses, hogs and cattle, and are hartnltss, quiet people. CON CM ATT AS, are almost the same people as the AUiba- niis, but came over only tci years ago ; first lived on Bayau Chico, in Appelousa district, but, four years ago, moved to i\\Q river Sabine, settled themselves on the east bank, where they now live> hi nearly a south direction from Natchitoch, and dis- tant about 80 miles. They call their number of men IfiO, but say, if they were all together, they would amount to QCM). Seve- ral families of them live in detached settlements. They arc good hunters, and game is plenty about where they arc. A few days ago, a small party of them were here, consisting of 15 persons, men, women and children, who were on their return from a bear hunt up Sabine. They told me they had killed 1 18 ; but this year an uncommon number of bears liave come down. One man alone, on Sabine, during the summer and fall, hunting, killed 400 deer, sold his skins at 40 dollars n hundred. Hic bears this year are not so fat as common ; they usually yield from eight to twelve gallons of oil, each of which never sells for less than a dollar a gallon, and the skin a dollar more ; no great quan- tity of the meat is saved; what the hunters doji't use when out, they generally give to their dogs. The Conchattas arc frieiuliy with all other Indians, and speak well of their neighbours the Carankouas, who, they say, live about 80 miles south of them, on the bay, which, 1 believe, is the nearest point to the sea from Natchitoches. A few families of Chaetaws have lately settled near them from Bayau Beauf. The Conchattas speak Creek, which is their native language, and Chactaw, and several of them English, and one or two of them can read it a little. PACANAS, are a small tribe of about 30 men, who live on the Quelqueshoe river, which falls into the bay between Aua- kapa and Sabine, which heads in a prairie culled Cooko prairie, about 40 miles south west of Natchitoches. These people are likewise emigrants from West Florida, about 40 years ago. Their village is about 50 miles south east of the Conchattas ; are said to be increasing a little in number ; quiet, peaceable and friendly people. Their own language differs from any other, but speak Mobilian. ATTAKAPAS. This word, I am hiformed, when transla" ted into English, means man-eater, but is no more applicable to them than any other Indians. The district they live in is called after them. Their village is about 20 miles to the westward of the Attakapa church, towards Quelqueshoe. Their number of men is about 50, but some Tunicas and Humas, who have raar- i-ied in their nation and live witii them, makes them altogether about 80. They arc peaceable and friendly to every body ; la- G 2 lie* THAV r.l.S IN AM Fine \. I botir, orrnfKionjrHy, for tlin tshit*' hihfrf»ltflnit«» ; rinMc tlurr oMrt rorn; Inivr cjitllr and liogs. Tl:« ir l;iiiL;tiit;(i niid ihf C.irfttt- kofias is r\n; jwmo. 'i'hcy W(;rr, (Vv »*;tf, vNln'n* thH n<>w live, N>liL'n Ur.rt |^i t of ihc coimcrv y\u!^ tiiM d'irfCT^VcVi-^l bv Wxd Prtnrli. Al*PAlX)tS.\S. It is siiW tht v^cyid J\|>^:i](tti«i. in \h<^ Indian langtiji^e, mr.tm bl^rk bi'Wri, <^ blo|o«>?a chun^i ; lilivi: -abotrt >40 nrcTi. Tfct ir nliliv<» Ihinrna^ di1fcr«« ftirMu all (Wlitf ; timliM^ 5iCftiid Allhki4»n JUKI yi^onk Froiitli ; phM c6irt ; tfare taltlc ^rtrA hogs. '11JN<1:AS. 'rbr»!o |H»oj)to livtd f-vrmrrly o^ tb*« BuyKfi 'rumen, ;»bnve Point Cuu|>fe, On tlio Mij^^isnippi, riiist ^itft' ; live now «t AvoytiN ; ih not at jm j^iMit ckrtvd 'J.3 ttJcf). 'ITk^i^' unlive hn^nUgo is |iecal'iar to fhcrfts«clves, 'bflier people, ahd ^adnally diminishing "in iiuftibe'rs. PASCAGOI/AS, live in a »mtiH vi^I^a^e on WeA Hvrf, 'Mutt 60 miles hth'tw Nhtcbitoches ; are 'em^t-YafitS frdti Pasriigo!{i river, in Wtsrt Florida ; 23 men only ibf tlierti fc^nalbing ; spetik Mohilian, but have a ihftjniftge peculiar to theniselve* ; riit/st cif thtm f!\tctAi flud uhdcfsfwM I'rcTifch. 'llvi-'y rftwe gt^ocl vYtfps cfi' icorn, and gin^tkii vrgetabtes ; bave cjittJe, hdi^es, and ponltry plenty. Tlu'iv b6rSTS in'e lAircb like Ibe po6rer kind of French mhab?t:inrs on the liver, ftrt^l appehrto liveabftntas ewiigrmU^ from the Tcrrcsauth'^r, thtit. falls into the bay of Mobile ; h-ave bctti tfn \\6{\ river nbmtt 40 years : are rcdnced to abont *il5 rtu^i. Tbcir viH.lge isMrtiiin one mile ^f the Pasca»;o!afs, on the r)pi^os)h3 sitk^, but have hitely sold their land, and have, or are about niovirrg, to Bay»u lii^aTif, nbout 25 miles south from w'heif they httt^ly lived : all s'pe.ik French tind Mobiliini, and live much like their uei^hboui-s the Pascagolhs. CtlACTOOS, live on Bnyau Bcauf, ;iboi^t 10 miles to the SOUlht\ard of Huy»ti Hapide, on K^?d livor, toa;rrds Ajipaloirsn: a small, honest peo[>le ; are aborigines of the totmtiS Avh jit tliet live ; of men about 'JO ; diminishing: Imve ihcii ovn pcailiar tongue ; J?|ieak Mobilian. The lands th(n elnini on TJuyah Bratd' are int-erior to no part of Lowisiaua in dt^plb andrichnes-s of soil, j!;roNvth of timber, pleasantness of sui fece and gootiuess of\vater. Tlte Bayau Bemif falls into the ChafTieli,and tlisdiargcs, through Apj>alou»a and Atfakapa, into Verndlion Bay. 'WAS?H AS. When the French first came into tire Mississippi, tbis nation lived oh an isl'and to the soUtli \v\v by \\\b in t1i<^ illa.iif is irabmit iltlc itiiA %{ MtH'; obiliiiJi ; ifii, &f. ishhrg iti J ; Hpt'tik tixOit 6i' vvapH cfi' ponltry [aa tW'^r, Icr tibmtt tsuhiiin ive l-.'.tcly ill s'pcnk [oiu*s tht* Is to the haloiTsa : ]ji* tijer jlicailiar of soil, if Watur. Ithrough [sissipjii, >rltsans, Ibccame ac(|uaiut(-(l willi, and \vt re always frii>iuN. 'I'lu\v aftorwards lived on Hayaii f .n l'\».s1i ; uiiil, ft(Au Uinu; n coii?iidi'niUe natii)n, arc now r«(lnct(l to live |>cr«ofi« oiiK, two men and llnri' \>oin('n, \vlio aie scatttKil in I'nneli funiilirs : have been nianv vcaj.sox- tinet, as II imlion, mul tUeii nalivv iontniiifn' ix ^<>>». There arc a conliderwJbk* mitnber of this unc- tion on tifc west Miie otUte MissiMi|)|)i, wlio have not Lirdi borne for Ki'veral years. .Alnmt tv^vlve miles ai>9ve tin.* post on Oacbe- ta, on that livit-, llM:re iji u sntaill vitiate of tkitnn of nboiit ^^ iu(>i^ who haw \\\viH tUcie for »cvoral ^oafs, und made corn; iimi likewise on nuyau Chiro, in the niMilioni pnrit of die district of A|>pulousa) there is MHHber \illn{;c of kbem ol' ubout d(> mcqiy ^ho have IxM-n there lor idjoiit nine vturs, nad anv thfT luiw Hie governor of Louisiana'* |)ermis.sriai to sett4e there. IJcsidcs thest*, tlieie are r»n>biini; himtfirt^ ipavlics of >then) to Ijc imet n ith all over Lower Louii^niiKi. 'I'liey are at war with iht UaddcKjnes, and liked by mrither uA nor w brie poople. AUKKXiSAS', bv* on the ArkmiBa river, «7nlh side, iii three villa;i5t'H, -about Itt luilts above die ,poiit, or slnlicm. 'Jlw name of ibe lii.it villltiifro is Tuicunhna, fiecund 'i)>t)'otU; vn\t\ the third Orapu ; in all, it is bt'lieved, they do nttt at prcBont xik- <;ei'd 100 meti, and (!*iHiiii>4iiMg. 'I'hey are «t v.ar w'ttk tin; Okafjes, but fiicndly with all ot^cr "peofjxk-, Yvhrtc and red; i»re tlk' origiaal lyeoprietors of tne counUy onllie river, 1o all wliieb they claim, for about SOi) miles above them, to the jmuniofj t<;ii»es claim. 'J'lieir Jaiiguaj^e i» 'Osag^*. 'i'heyp,OKril!y ruise eoj«n to sell ; are called honciit a»d fi'iendly poopio. TIjo forementioned are all ihe Ivwi-an tribes that T have nf>\' kno\vle(ly,e of, or can obtain an ticeount ol", in Lonisinna, ,*toutli of the river Arkwsa, btlM'eeii tlwj MlsBi.s.sipin aiUl river ^«Vaiid. At Avoyall there dkl live u eonsilkrable tri'.'c of thai ntmii', bwl, as far as 1 can kurn, have lnvn extinct fv)r many years, two uv three women excepted, who did Kitely live amon^ the 1*V« neb iithabitauls on U a.shita. 'J'here are a tew of llie Humus still living on tl:(; east side of the Alississippi, in lx!k, below the inouth of tlje Black liver, and the hMt bank above it; the growth on the lowest places, willo^v and cottou wood, but on the liighcirt, handsome oaLs, swamp hickory, aaii^ gruj)t' viovs, See. I made my cah:ulation of oiir rnto of aFV<'nt and distav^ces wp the river, by my watch, netini;- car elully with my pencil the mi- Mnte of our stops and settings off, the inlets and onlk-ls, rcuuirk- able bends in the river, and uhutevcr I obscrv* »l any way re- markable. j\bout sis miles iVoni the nvoutli of liie river, left side, there is a baynu, as it is oalkcl, ctnnts in, that communi- cates with u lake cnlltd lake Lt>np:, wliich, b\ au' thor bayau, cornniunicates ngain with the river, through which, wlicn there is a »v»s\\ in the river, boats can pass, and cut off about 30 miles, being only 14 or 16 through it, and about 45 by the course of the river ; and through the lake there is very liltie or ro current; but the passage is intricate and difficult to liud : a straucer should not attempt it wiiliout a pilot ; people have been lo8t in it for seve- ral days; but not difficult for one acqiiniutcd: we, having no pilot on board to be depended on, kept tho river. From the mouth of Hcd river to the nu)uth of Black river I made it 31 miles: the water of Black river is clear, and when contrasted with the water of Red river has a black, appearance. From the mouth of lilack river, lied river makes a regular twining to the left, for about 18 miles, called the Grand Bend, forn)in^ a si " '•""^" or ceded f„"s' ""'^"T "f "-e lands.SeJL' '"'t""^"'' "'"''« ceacd to Spam bv France inW J »."'™ "e^ofe Lou s aua mm of the commandant o" x;,d.t .''''""'''.■'''''er Ihe jnrisdTctl^ "■go when, by an ag^en.em bet '' "",'.'' "'""" '»™.y vear" •■""'d^nt of this p4e, and ^"Mr",?,*''-/og„„e, ihc^n com! Aalclmoche,, tl/seukmen. catl'j h""'^V ^mmandant", M. .e ,nr.dic.ion of .,. I^t^ a^Ta/::- S.^^^ i' 64 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. since. The settlonicnt, 1 believe, contains about forty families, and generally they have lar;?e stocks of cattle: they supply us with our cheese entirely, and of a tolerable quality, and we get from them some excellent bacon hams. The country is inter- spersed with prairies, roscniblinjr, as to richness, the river bot- toms, and, in si/e, from live to five tliousand acres. The hills are a }j;ood grey soil, and produce very well, and afford beau- tiful situations. 'I'he creek calK'd JJayau Pierre, (htony creek) passes through the settlement, and ati'ords a number of good mill seats, and its bed and banks lined with a good kind of build- ing stone, but no mills are erected on it. So^ie of the inha- bitants have tried the uplands in wheat, which succeeded well. They are high, gently roHing, and rich enough; produce good corn, cotton, and tobacco, i was through the settlement itfi July last, and found good water, either from a spring or well, at every house. 'J^he inhabitants are all French, one family ex- cepted. A few miles to the westward, towards Sabine, there ia a Saline where the hihabitants go and make their salt. On the whole, for health, good water, good living, plenty of food for every kind of animal, general conveniency, and handsome surface, I have seen few parts of the world more inviting to settlers. Returning back again to the fork of the main river we left, for the purpose of exploring the Bayau Pierre branch, we find irregular settlements, including Campti, where a few families are settled together on a hill near the river, north east side. For about 20 miles the river land is much the same every where, but the Campti settlement is more broken with bayaus and la- goons than any place I am acquainted with on the river, and for want of about a dozen bridges is inconvenient to get to, or travel through. The upper end of this settlement is the last on the main branch of Red river, which, straight by land, does not exceed Q.5 miles above Natchitoches. At the upper hoi»se the great raft or jam of timber begins; this raft choaks the main ciianncl for upwards of 100 miles, by the course of the river; not one entire jam from the beginning to the end of it, but only at the points, with places of several leagues that are clear. The river is very crooked, and the low grounds are wide and rich, and [ am informed, no part of Red river will afford better plantations than along its banks by this raft, M'hich is re- presented as being so important as to render the country above it of little value for settlements ; this opinion is founded en- tirely upon incorrect information. The first or lowest part of the raft is at a bend or point in the river, just below the upper plantation, at which, on the right side, a large bayau, or divi* of Loa .vvel" ACCOUNT OF RED TllVEn, &C. m |e left, ve find itnilies e. For where, ind la- r, and 'et to, [he last I, does hoi>^e iks the of the of it, iiat are Ire wide afford Ih is re- above led en- part of ii upper r divi-* sion of the river, calleM Buyaii Channo, coiiu's in, which is free of any obstructions, ami the grtafer part of tlit year boats of any size may ascend it, into lake Bisiino, tbrou<;h v liicli. to its communica ion with tlitlako, is onl\ ahout timt miles; ihe lake is about fiO uiileH lon<;, and lay!> ncnrly purullcl with tiie river, from the upper end of whicli it connnunicates a|;ain with the river, by a bayau callttl Uaicliet, about foity miUs above tjjc upper end of the raft ; from the lake to the river, through Jiayau Daichet, is called nine miles; there is always in this bayau .suf- ficient water for any boat to pass; from thence u|>wards Red river is free of all obstructions to the mountains. By lake Bis- tino, and these two bdyautt, an i^land is formed, about 70 miles lono, and three or four wide, capable oliirtoKlmg settlements infe- rior to none on the river. Fron» the above account you will perceive, that the only ditticulty in opening a boat jKissage by this raft, through the lake, which is nuicli shorter than by the course of the river, and nvoid the current, and indeed, was the river unobstructed, would always be preferred, is this small jam of timber at the point, just below the buyuu Chanuo, as it is called. After the receipt of your letter I had an opportimity of seeing some of the inhabitants who live near tiiis place, who informed me, that that small raft was easily broken, and that they had lately been talking of doinsy it. 1 persuaded them to make the astempt, and they accordingly appointed the Friday followin<^, and all the neighbours were to be invited to attend and assist. They met accordingly, and effected u pa-isag'^ next to one bank of the river, so that boats could pass, but did not entirely break it; they intend to take anotler spell at it, when the water falls a little, and speak confidently of succeeding. The country about the head of lake Bistino, is highly spoken of, as well the high lands, as the river bottom. There are falling into the riv« r and lake in the vicinity, some handsome streams of clear v^holesome water from towards Washita, one ill particular called bayau Badkuh by the Indians, which is boat- able at some seasons ; this bayau passes through a long, narrow, and rich prairie, on which my mformant says, 500 fannlies might be desirably settled ; and from thence up to where the Caddos lately lived, the river banks are high, bottoms wide and rich as any otler part of the liver. From thence it is much the same to the niosith of the Little river of the left ; this river is generally trom 50 to an 100 yards wide; heads in the great prairies, south of Red river, and interlocks w ith the head branches of the Sabine and Trinity rivers; and in times of high watei is boatable 40 or 50 leagues, affording a large body of excellent, well tindjcred and rich land, the low grounds from 3 to 6 miles lEWiS AND CLARKE.] I nx Pi',, ^1, m TRAVfLS IN AMERICA. wide; but the fjiiiility of llie water, tlioupli clear, is very inferior ' to that of the «lrran»s that fall into UvA rivrr on the north side. The general course of the Ked river from thi.s upwards is nearly from wi'st to cast, till wo arrive at the Panis towns, when it turns north weslwardiy. After leaving tlie mofUh of the Littlo river of the U ft , hoth banks are covered with slroii;:; thick cane for about 20 miles; the low gronnd-i very wide, rich and do not overrtow; the river widening in proportion as the banks an* less liable to ovei'flow ; you arrive at a handsome, rich prairie, '2.^ miKs long on the right side, and 4 or 5 miles wide ; boinided by handsome oak and hickory woods, mixed with some short leaved pine, interpersed with pleasant streams and fountains of water. 'J1ie opposite, or left side is a continuation of thick cane; the river or low lands 10 or 12 miles vide. After leav- ing the prairie, the cane continues for about 40 miles; you then arrive at another prairie, called Little prairie, left side, about .5 miles in Icnuth, and from 2 to in .'} breadth ; opposite side continues cane as before; low lands wide, well limbered, very rich, and overflow but little ; the river still widening. 33ack of the low grounds, is a vvi !l timbered, rich upland coun- try; gently rolling and well watered ; from the Little prairie, both banks cane for 10 or 1(2 miles, when the oak and pine woods come bluff to the river for about 5 miles ; left hand side, cane as before; then the same on both sides, for from 10 to 20 miles wide, for about 15 miles, when the cedar begins on both sides, and h the principal growth on the wide, rich river bottom for 40 miles ; in all the world there is scarcely to be found a more beautiful growth of cedar tirtiber ; they, like the cedars of Libaniis, are large, lofty and straight. You now arrive at the mouth of the Little river of the right ; this river is about 150 yards wide ; the water clear as crystal ; the bottom of the river stony, and is boatable, at high water, up to the great prairies near 200 miles by the course of the ri- ver; the low grounds generally fro HI 10 to 15 miles wide, abound- ing with the most luxuriant growth of rich timber, but subject to partial indundation at particular rainy seasons. After leaving this river, both bunks of lied river are cane as before, for about 20 miles, when you come to the roiuul prairie, right side, about 5 miles in circumference. At this place lied river is I'or- dable at low water; a hard stony bottom, and is the first place from its mouth where it can be forded. This round prairie is high and pleasant; surrounded by handsome oak and hickory uplands ; left side cane as before, and thou the same both sides for 20 miles, to the long prairie, left side, 40 miles lona- ; op- posite side cane as before ; near the middle of this prairie, there is i» lake of about 5 miles in circumference, in an ova\ ACCOUNT OP Rl.I) RIVEK, iKC. «7 side, early nil it .iltio cainJ not (' U'SS uided sliort liuR of tliick r leav- i ; you ft side, )posite ibered, iU'uing. 1 coun- piairie, id pine It luiiid roiii 10 ipjins on h livtT ly to be llike the right ; ;rystal ; water, the ri- ibound- subjcct leaving )r about lit side, Ir is I'or- Ist place \rairie is hickory kh sides \vy ; op- prairie, Ian ova\ foriYi, neither tree nor shrub near it, nor Ktreani of water rn»i- iiin;;; eitlicr ni or out of it ; it is very deep, and the water 80 lim- pid that a li»h may be seen 13 feet from the Murl'act!. Hy tlie side of this lake the Cad(h)quies have lived from time im- inemuriul. About one nnle from die lake in the hill on \\hich, they say, the (ireat Spirit plact d one Cadilo family, who were saved when, by u general dehijie, all the world utre drowni'd ; from which family all the Indians have originated. Tor thi» little natural eminence all die Indian tribts, ns well as the Cuddo(|uies, for a jireat distance, pay a devout and sacred ho- in:i}^e. iJ«Me the Frtnch, for many years before Louiaiana was ceded to Spain, had erected a small fort ; kept some soldiers to guard a factory they had here established for the Indian trade, uiid several French families were settled in the vicinity, built u flour mill, and cultivoted wheat successfully for several years ; and it is only a few years n;^o that the mill irons and mill stones were brought down ; it is about 'J.5 years since those French fa- milies moved down, and 14 years ^ince the Caddoquics left it. Here is another fording place when the river is low. On tho opposite side a point of high oak, hickory, lUid pine land onics blnir to the river for about a mile ; alter which, thick cane to the upper end of the prairie ; thru the same on both sides for about i'.J miles; then prairie on the left side for 20 miles, op- posite side cane ; then the same for 30 miles, then an oak high bluft' three miles, cane again for about the same distance, on both sides ; then for about one league, left sidc; is a beautiful grove of paeans, intermixed with no other ^^rovvth ; after which, cane both sides for 40 miles; then prairie, leftside, for 20 miles, and from one to two miles only in depth ; about the mid- dle of which comes in a bayau of clear running water, about 50 feet wide ; then cane again both sides of the river for about 40 miles ; then, on the right side, a point of high pine woods blutf to the river for about half a mile, cane again 15 or 15 miles ; then a bluff of large white rocks for about half a mile, near 100 feet high, cane again about 46 miles, to a prairie on the right side,* of about 50 miles long, and 1^ oi 15 miles wide ; there is a thin skirt of wood along the bank of the ri- ver, that when the leaves are on the trees, the prairie is, from the river, scarcely to be seen. From the upper end of this prairie it is thick cane again for about six miles, when we ar- rive to the mouth of Bayau Galle, which is on the right side, about thirty yards wide, a beautiful, clear, running stream of wholesome well tasted water ; after passing which it is thick cane again for 'is miles, when we arrive at a river that falls in on the right side, which is called by the Indians Kiojnitchk, and hy tli^ French La Rivkre la Mine, or Mine river, which ;« I 2 'in ^RAVEts ry AMfiRieA. about \66 rards wide, the water clear and good, and is' boat- able^ about 60 miles to the silver mine, which is on the bank of the river, and the ore appears in large quantities, but the rich- ness of it is not known. The Indians inform of their discover- ing another, about a year ago, or a creek tlui empties into the Kiomitcb'e, about three miles from its mouth, the ore of which they say resembles the other. The bottom land of this river is not wide, but rich; the adjoining high lands are rich, well tim- bered, well watered and situated. About the nunc ihe current of the river is too strong for boats to ascend it, the country being hilly. After passing the Kiomitchie, both banks of the liver are covered with thick cane for 25 miles, then, left side, a high pine bluff appears again to the river for about half a mile, after which notliing but cane again on each side for about 40 miles, which brings you to the mouth of a handsome bayau, left side, called by the Indians Nahaiicka, which, in.Enghsh^ means the Kick; the French call it Bois d' Arc, or Bow-wood creek, from the large quantity of that wood that grows upon it. On this bayau trappers have been more successful in catching bea- ver than on any other water of Red river ; it communicates with a lake, three or four miles from its mouth, called Swan lake, from the great number of swan that frequent it ; it is believed that thi* bayau is boatable at high water, for 20 or 30 leagues, from w hat 1 liave been informed by some hunters with whom I have conversed, who have been upon it. The low grounds are from three to six miles wide, very rich, the principal growth on it is the bois d'arc. The great prairies approach pretty near the low grounds on each side of this creek ; leaving which it is cane both sides for about eight miles, when we arrive at the mouth of the Vazirures, or Boggy river, which is about 200 yards wide, soft miry bottom, the water whitish, but well tasted. Attempts have been made to ascend it in perogues, but it was found to be obstn^cted by a raft of logs, about 20 miles up it. The current was found to be gentle, and depth of water suffi- cient ; was the channel not obstructed might be ascended far up it. The low grounds on this river are not as wide as on most of the rivers that fall into Ked river, but very rich ; the high lands are a strong clay soil ; the principal growth oak. After leaving this river the banks of Red river are alternately cane and prairie ; the timber is very small and scattered along only in places ; it is only now to be seen along the w ater courses. From tlie Boggy river to the Blue river is about 50 miles^ which comes in on die right side. The water of this river is called blue, from its extreme transparency ; it is sjid to be well ta^i^ed, and admired, for its quality, to driiik. 'Ihe bed of this river is iined gcuerally with black and gi eyisU dint stoues ; ACCOUNT OF RED KIVER, &C. 69 bo»»t- inkof ; rich- cover- to the which iver is U tim- :iirrent ;oantry of the ft side, half a r about bayau, inghsh, kV-wood upon it. ing bea- s with a an lake, believed leagues, Iwhom I inds are owth on near the tich it is !e at the out 200 1 tasted. It it was 5S up it. ;er sufl&- nded far lie as on ich; the th oak. fernately id along |courses» miies^ river is be well bed of stoues ; it is about 50 yards wide^ and represented as a benutiful stream ; perogues ascend it about 60 or 70 miles. The low grounds of Blue river are a good width fur plantations, very rich ; the growth paean, and every species of the walnut. The whole country here, except on the margin of the water courses, is one immense prairie. After passing this river copses of wood only are to be seen here and there along the river bank for 125 miles, to a small turgid river, called by the Indians Bahachaha, and by the French Fauioachita, or False oachito ; some call it the Missouri branch of lied river ; it emits a considerable quantity of water ; runs from north to south, and falls into Red river nearly at right angles, and heads near the head of the Aike:isa, and is so brackish it cannot be drank. On this river, and on a branch of the Arkensa, not far from it, the Indians find the ualt rock ; pieces of it have often been brougiht to Natchitoches by hunters, who procured it from the Indians From the mouth of this river, thrciugh the prairie, to the main branch of the Arkensa, is three days journey ; perhaps 60 or 70 miles in a straight line. F'rom this to the Panis, or Tovvrache towns, by land, is about .30 miles, and by water, double that distance ; the river is nearly a mile wide. The country on each side, for many hundreds of miles, is nil prairie, except a skirt of wooJ along the river bank, and on the snialltr streams ; vvliat trees there are, are small ; the grass is green summer and winter. In between S3 and 34 degrees of north latitude, the soil is very rich, producing, luxuriously, every thin-.s; that is planted in it : the river, from this upwards, for IJO miles, continues at least a mile wide, and may be ascended in perogues. Mr. Grappe, to whom 1 am indebted for the foregoing ac- curate description of Red river, informed me, that his personal knowledge of it did not extend but little above the Panis towns : but Mr. Brevel, of the Isle Brevel, who was born itt the Caddo old towns, where he was, had been farther up it, and that what- ever account he gave me might be relied on. 1 therefore sought an opportunity, a few days after, to obtain from Mr. Brevel the following narrative, which I wrote down from his own mouth, as he related it: ** About 40 years ago, I set off, on foot, from the Panis na- tion (who then lived about 60 leajiues above where thev now live), in company with a party of young Indian men, with whom 1 had been partly raised, (»n a hunting voyage, and t<» procure horses. We kept up on the south side of Red river, li- near it as we could conveniently cross the small streams tliit fall in, sometimes at some distance, and at others very near it, and in sight of it. We found liic country all prairie, «;xcept small «opses of wood, cedar, cutLon wood, ')r muskft<», atntv,>(^ck salt., eople's) ul Uiat >ise like the In- in their )wing of parts of I of the imerable tuutmnti ; We till- another, ;, till the lurds the tinued on and the ch black we f'.)iuid alio Coii- IVoin the .wns, and nee from cd rivtr over the |the coun • w white |rs, we sot loutli -eiist .mtry iiuo vaters all lant herb- irrived, at aileinent, ere some and muH- lU a biuidl stream of water that nui wcstwardly, and in a dry season scarcely run at all ; and ihat the inhabitants were obli;j;ed to water tlu ir cattle from wells- And J understood that the bayan upon whicli this town is situated, was no par!; of Jtio Grandi, but h 11 inU> the western ocerni ; but of that I miglii have been mistaken. I und»!stood that similar small towns, or mis.siojis, were v. iiliin eertain distances of eaeli other for a great extent southwardly, to- wards Mexico; and that the inhabiUmts were nlo^i!y chrisi.an- ised Indians and Matifiis. That the mines in that setdeiatni af- forded v( ry rich ore, which was taken away in lai;^e (piuntitics, packed on nniles, and had the same aj-peavance of what we met with about the head branches of lied river. AfUr luniiih- in^ou!>ieIves willi horses at this place, ve set off agani h^r th.e Panis towns, fr»'>m whence we started, steeiinp; at iirst soiith- Tiardly, in order to avoitl a high moiuitainons eoimlry that is d'.f- f'Cnlt to cross, that lies between St. ;i le and Red river. Alter travelling some distance south, we turned our course uorth-east- wardly, and arrived at the Panis towns in eighteen days iVoin thtt day we left St. a Pe setM«Mnents, and three moutlis and Iwenly days from the time we Uarted." He is of the opinioji, that from the Panis towns 1o St. a Fe^ in a right line, is nearly three hundicd miles, and all the <;umitry prairie, a few scattering cedar knijbs excepted. After he had linished his narrative, 1 asked him hnv far Ped river was boot- able, lie saiil, not nuieh above the Panis old towns ; not that be knew of any particular falls or obstructions, but that the head branches of the river came from steep mountains, ou which the rain often poured down in torrt nts, and runs imo the river with such velocity, sweepins: along w ilh it large quantities of loose "s and mountains are comi iiesc 'P rolls like a sw(?ll in the sea, and would t itluM' sink or carry alon-; with it any boat diat it might meet in the river. Put, he ob- served at the same time, that Ins opinion w as founded on no t x- perimentthat he had ever known made. 1 asked hit)i if the in- ((iiaiis had no perognes high u}) in tht river. He told me, tl nt the Indians there kiiew notlnng of the use of them ; for, insiead of there being for hundreds of miles a tree laige enough for a canoe, one could scarcely be found large enough ti> make a fow i trough I. asked him what animals were lt)mid in tlu- Ciieat prairies. Ik: told me, that from Bine river, unwards, on l)oth sidts of 1;. d river tl lere were mnum u'rable (|u;.ntiti( s of wild horses, hulia- loe, bears, wolv(,'s, elk, deer, foxes,i.anglicrs m wild hogs, aiil( ! jfo, white hares, rabbits, &.c, and on the mouniains the j^jjoILi dty .<. r, j>anther, and wildcat. He farther told me, that ahoiii twen's- liijee years ago, he was employed by the governor of St. Au- : •■■( 72 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. toinc, to go from that place into some of the Indian nations that lived towards St. a Fe, who were at war with the Spa- niards, to try to make a peace with tliem, and bring in some of the chiefs to St. Antoine. He set oif from that place with a party of soldiers, and was to have jxane to St. a Fe ; they passed on a north-westwardly course for about two himdred miles, but after getting into the Great Prairie, being a dry season^ they were forced to turn back for want of water for themselves and horse«, and that he does not know how near he went to St. a Fe, but believes he might have been half way. The accounts given by Mr. Brevel, Mr. Grappe, and all other hunters with whom I have conversed, of the immense droves of animals that, at the beginning of wiiiter, descend from the mountains down southwardly, into the timbered coun- try, is almost incredible. They say the buffaloc and bear particularly are in droves of many thousands together, that blacken the whole surface of the earth, and continue passing, without intermission, for weeks together, so that the whole surface of the country is, for many miles in breadth, trodden like a large road. I am, sir, &c. &c, (Signed) JOrL\ SIBLEY, 'Natchitoches, lOlh April, 180j. Distances up Red river by the course of the river. Miles. From the moiuh of Red river to Black river to Baker's landing, lower end avoyal La Glee's ditto, upper end avoyal Rice's .... Hoonie's .... I^icholas Grubb's ., , mouth of bayau Rapide Indian villages Mount Pleasant, Gillard's place mouth of Rigula de Bondieu Mounete's plantation mouth of Little river bayau Brevell . Natchitoches » 31 51 15 (1 iS 21 15 — 167 22 7 6 10 24 20 20 — 109 206* nations 3 Spa- me of with a passed 63, but n, they ;es and t. a Fe, and all nmense descend id coun- nd bear ler, that passing, 2 whole trodden BLEY. er, ILES. 131 51 15 28 121 115 — 167 I22 7 6 10 124 20 20 :i\ 109 200* ' ACCOUNT Ot BED RIVER, 8CC. Continued, Mi Cfand Ecore • . ' Coinpti . * bayau Channo ...» lake Bistiiio, through bayau Channo through lake Bistino to the upper end of Channo through bayau Daichet to the river again late Caddo villages where they lived 5 years ago Little riv«r of the left long prpirie, right side upper<-nd of ditto little prairie, left side upper end ditto pine Bluff, right side . * upper end ditto cedars . . • 4ipper end ditto and mouth of Little river of the right .... I'ound prairie, right side (first fording place) . lower end of long prairie, left side upper end ditto . , next prairie, same side upper end of the same 3 mile oak and pine Bluff Paean grove . , • . iippei* end of the same prairie next above the Paeans upper end of the same pine Bluff, right side . white oak Bluff next prairie, right side upper end ditto . . bayau Galle, right side mouth of Kiomitchie, or mine river pine Bluff, left side bayau Kick, or Bois d'arc creek the Vazzurei;; or Boggy river, right side Blue river, right side J'aux Oaclcto or Missouri branch :lewis and clakke.] 73 LliS. 26e \ f 10 20 1 IS }\. 3 Mi 60 9 80 h 107 1 80 25 I ■ 25 !■ 40 3 ^B — 175 1 12 5 15 r- 40 20 25 40 12 20 30 9 6 40 25 45 15 45 30 6 25 25 40 8 50 25 148 1,251 231 Tf^'Wr^'iJ^'T'^ •r:"W-5T- < * TRAVKLS IN AMEKICA. Conti tilted. MILES. 1,251 Panis or Towiaclie towns . . 70 Panis ur ditto old towns . . 150 head branch of fled river, or dividing ridge 300 — 5C0 To which may be added for so mnch the distance being shortened by going through lake Bistino, than the course of the rivir . • 60 Coniputei! length of Red river from where it falls into the Mississippi, to which add the distance fruni the mouth of Red river to the ocean, by either the Mississippi, or the Cheffeli, which was once probably the mouth of Red river l,8.'n tno Total length of Red river Miles. 2,1 J 1 ORSERVATIONS Made in a voyage commencing at St. Catharine's landing, on the cast bank of the Mississippi, proceeding dortmcards to the mouth of Red river, and from thence ascending that river, the lilack river, and the Washita river, as nigh as the hot springs in the proximity of the last-meutioned river, extracted from the journals oj tVilliam Dunbar, Esquire, and Doctor Hunter. Mr. DUNBAR, Doctor Hunter, and the party employed by the United States to make a survey of, and explore the country traversed by the Washita river, left St. Catharine's landing, on the Mississippi, in latitude 31® 2G' 30" N. and longitude 6h 6' 56'' W. from the meridian of Greenwich, on Tuesday the iGth of October, 1804. A little distance below St, Catharine's creek, and five leagues from Natches, they passed the White Cliffs, composed chiefly of sand, surmounted by pine, and from one hundred to two hundred feet high. W^hen the waters of the JNlississippi pre low, the base of the cliff is uncovered, which consists o. different coloured clays, and some beds of ochre, over which there lies, in some places, a thin lamina of iron ore, Small springs possessing a petrifying qua'ity flow over the clay and ochre, and numerous legs and pieces of timber, converted into stone, are strewed about the beadi. Fine pure argil, of va- rious colours, chiefly white and red, is found here. On the 17th they iinived at tlie mouth of Red river, the con- fluence of which with the Mississippi, tig ecably to the observa- tions of Mr. de Ferrv.'r, lies in latitude SI'' 1' 15', and longitude 3'20 on that 6h5' iGth creek. Cliffs, ni one of the which e, over u ore |ie clay iivertcd of va- ie con- )Sjrva- kigitude BED AND BLACK HlVF.KS. 73 f)h 7' 1 [" ^'cst of Grcenw ich. Red river is here about five hun- dred yards wide, and widuuit any sensible current. The bunks of the river are clothed wiih willow ; the land low and subject to inundation, to the height of thirty feet or more above the level of the water at this lime. 'J he mouth of the Red river is ac- counted to be seventy-five leagues from New Orleans, and tinee miles higher up than the Chafalaya, or Dpelonsa river, which was probably a continuation of the Red river when its waters did not unite with those of the j\lissis!$ippi but during the in- undation. On the 18th the survovof the Red livcr was commenced, and on the evening of the lyth tlie party arrived at the mouth of the Jilack river, in latitude ^l'^ 15' 48" N. and about 2(j miles from the Mississippi. The Red river derives its name from the rich fat earth, or nutric, of tliat colour, borne clovvn by the Hoods ; the last of which appeared to have deposited on the high bank a stratum of upwards of iialf an inch in thickness. The vegetation on its banks is surprismgly luxuriant ; no doubt owing to the de- position of marie durnig its annual floods. The willows grow to a good si^e ; but other forest trees are much smaller than those seen on the banks of the Mississippi. As you advance up the river, it gradually narrows ; hi latitude 31° 08' N. it is about two hundred yards wide, which width is continued to die mouth of Black river, where each of them appears one hundred and fifty yards across. The banks of the river are covered with pea vine and several sorts of grass, bearing seed, which geese and ducks eat very greedily ; and diere are generally seen willows growing on one side, and on the other a small growth of black oak, packawn, hickory, elm, ik,c. The current in the Red river is so moderate as scarcely to afford an impediment to its ascent. On sounding the Black river a little above its mouth, there was found twenty feet of water, with a bottom of black sand. The water of l^lack river is ralher clearer than that of the Ohio, and of a warm temperature, \>hich it ni ly receive from the water flowing into it from iho valley of the Mississippi, parti- cularly by the Catalioola. At noon on the *iod, by a good meridian observation, they ascertahieoa wi list ihey are keepuijj the camp, aRii their hiisbaudt) are in the wouU:> huiuinj^, ^? CATAIIOOLA RIVER. 77 ;se and I, witli kind) with a ,f tlie liver, taynus |\v into lit, le- chciiu liitinters Mi's fist. it well, tUmciit It yicld3 wvviy as [l ill' the led vsith lie lu- sembling small islands, some floating on the surfacR of the rt> ver, and others adhering to, or rcstinj; on tin; iliore and logs. On exanihiing this plunt, it was fotnid a lioiio a-, jointed stem, with roots of the same fortii, extremely liglit, with very narrow wiiioNV shaped leaves projecting; from the Joint, tmbr;icing, how- ever, the whole of the tube, and i xteiidni!^ to the next inferior joint or knot. TJie extremity of each branch is terminated by a spike of very slender, narrow seminal leuvi s from one to two inches in length, and one tenth, or less, in breadth, producing its seed on the undersino of the leaf, in a double row almost in contact ; llic ijrains alternately placed in perfect regularity : not being able to lind the llower, its class and order could not be determined, altli()iip;h it is not probably new. 'I'owards the up- per part of the Black river, the shore abounded with nuiscles and periwinkles. The muscles were of the kind culled pearl muscles. The men drcssetl a quantity of them, considci ing them as an agreeable food; but Mr. D. found them tough and un- palatable. On arriving at the mouth of the Catahoola, they landed to procure information from a rreiichman settled there. Having a grant from the Spanish government, he has made a small set- tlement, and keeps a ferry boat for carrymg over men and liorses travelling to and fion> Natchez, and settlements on Ued river and on the Washita river. The country here is all alluvi d. In process of time, the rivers shutting up ancient passages and elevating the banks over whitdi their waters pass, no longer com- municate with the same facility as formerly ; the consequence is, that many larger tracts formerly subject to inundation, are now entirely exempt from that in..onvenience. Such is the situ- ation of a most valuable tract upon which this Frenchman is settled. His house stands on an Indian mount, with several others in view. There is also a species of rampant snrrouiuling this place, and one very elevated mount, a view and descrip- tion of which is postponed till the return; their present situation not allowing of the requisite delay. The soil is equal to the best Mississippi bottoms*. "^ llicie is an oml)ankmont lunniug from tl'o C.ifahoolu to Black river (iiii loiinj; about two hundred acres «t" rich hind), at present ahuut ten Irct hijih, and ten feet broad. This surrounds four large mounds of <'arth at the distance of' a h<»w-sliot from cnrh other; each of which inav he twenty foot hij^hjonc hundred leet hroad, and three hundred feet lonj; at the top, besides a stupendous turret situate on tlie back part of the whole, o .'37' 7" N. and encamped on the evening of die 2i>d. This liver derives its appellation from the name of an Indian tribe, formerly resident on its banks ; the remnant of which, it is said, went into the great plains to the westward, and either compose a small tribe themselves, or are incorporated into ano- ther nation. The Black river loses its name at the junction of the Washita, Catahdola and Tenza, ahli()Uii,h our maps repre^ sent it as taking plact. ^'^ Washita. I'he Tenza and Outahooifi are also named from u»...^,. tribes no v extinct. The latter* is a creek twelve leagues lonjr, which is the issue of a lake of the saino name, eight leagues in length, and about two leagues in breadth. It lies west from the mouth of the Catahoola, and comnnmicales with the Red river during the great annual inundation. At die west or nordi-west'angle of die lake, acreekcalled Jitde rivcr,entcrs, which preserves a chatmel with rtnming \\uter at all seasons, meander-, ing along the bed of the lake ; but in all odier ])arts its superficies, during the dry si ason from July to November, and often later,^ is completely drained, and bet jmes covered with the most lux- urious hei bage ; the bed of the lake then becomes the resi- dence of immense herds of d'^er, of turkeys, geese, crane, 8cc. which feed on the grass and grain. Bayau Tenza serves only to drain of}" a part of the waters of the inundation from the low landq of the Mississippi, which here comnumicale with the Black river during the season of high water. Between the mouth of the Washita, and Villenjont's prairie on the right, the current of tiie river is gentle, and the baiiks vr^LE^foNTft pRAiriC 70 ]8 a sumo 1th. It ts will I est or iNvIiich UKlcr-. [fjcics, latcFj^ \t lux, resi- ?, &.C. |j»i_v to je low Ih the hraiiie bajiks favourable for towinj*. The lands on both sides hav(? the appear- ance of being above the iruiiidation ; the timber generttlly such as high lands produce, being chiefly red, white and black oaks, inters|)er9ed with a variety of other trees. The niuguolia gi'an«hflorn, that int'ullible sign of the land not being subject to inundation, is not, however, anoong them. Along the banks a stratum of solid clay, or niarle, is observable, apparently of un ancient deposition. It lies in oblique positions, making nn angle of nearly thirty degrees with the horizon, and generally in- clined with tiie decent of the river, although in a few cases the position was contrary. Tiniber is seen projecting from uiuicr the solid bank, wi.ich seems indurated, and unquestionably very ancient, presenting a very diftVrout appearance from recently formed soil. The river is about 80 yards wide. A league above the mouth of the Washita, the bayau Ha-ha comes in un- expectedly from the right, and is one of the many passages through which the waters of the great inundation (XMielrate iind pervade all the \o\\ countries, annihilating, for a lime, the cuneuts of the lesser rivers in the neighbomliood of the Mis- sissippi. The vegetation is remarkably vigorous along the al- luvial banks, >\hich are covered with a thick shrubbery, and innumerable plants in full blossom at this late season. Villemont's prairie is so named in consequence of its being included within a grant under the French governinont t(» u gentleman of that name. Many other parts on liie Washita are named after their early proprietors. The French people projected and begun extensive settlements on this river, but the general massacre planned, and in pari osecuted by the In- dians against them, and tiie consequent destruction of the Nalche/. tribe by the French, broke up all these undertakings, and they were not recommenced under that govcrnni^^nt. Those prairies are plains, or savannas, without t.inber ; generally very fertile, und producing an exuberance of strong, thick and coarse herbage. \Vhen a [)iece of grouj'd has once got into this state, in an Indian count!) , it can have no opportunity of re-pro- ducing liu'.l'.er, it being an invariable pralicc to set fi»e to the dry graas in the fall or winter, to obtain tbe advantage of at- tracting game wlicn the younii; tender grass begins to spring : this destroys the young tiniber, and the prairie annually gains upim the vood-land. it is probable that the immense plains known to exist in Aincica, may owe their origin to this custom. The plains of the Washita lie chietly on the east side, and being generally formed like the Mississippi land, sloping from the bank of the river to the Great river, thev are more or less sub- ject to mundaMon m the rear ; and in certain great floods the water has advanced so far as to be ready to pour over the >m ■f, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) i.O SfUi I2i 1.1 J.-^'^o yiiiii4iJ4 — 6" HiolDgraphic ^SoHices Corporatton .«f<^ 7 ^vT // v*'^.^^ /J^^^ ^P •SJ ^v <^ -•\ 23 WIST MAIN STRIiT WnSTIR,N.Y. USM (716) •72-4503 -«^:*<»^ "^ ;\ tfeAtEtS fA AMERICA. tnargui into the Washita. This has now become a very rar^ thing, and it may be estimated that from a quarter of a mile to a mile iu depth, will remain free from inundation during high floods, lliis b pretty much the case with those lands nearly as high as the post of the Washita, with the exception of certain ridges of primitive high-land; the rest being evidently alluvial, although not now subject to be inundated by the Washita river in con* sequence of the great depth which tlie bed of tlie river has acquired by abrasion. On approaching towards the bayau Louis, which empties its waters into the Washita on the right, a little befow the rapids, there is a great deal of high land on both sides, which produces pine and other timber, not the growth of inundated lands. At the foot.of the rapids the navi- gation of the river is impeded by beds of gravel formed in it. The first rapids lie in latitude 8l''48' 57" 5 N. a little above which there is a high ridge of primitive eartli, studded with abimdance of fragments of rocks, or stone, which appears to have been thrown up to the surface in a very irregular manner. The stone is of a friable nature, some of it having the appear- ance of indurated clay ; the outside is blackish from exposure to the air, within it is a greyi.sh white ; it is said that in the hill the strata arc regular, and that good grindstones may be here obtained. The last of the rapids, which is formed by a ledge of rocks crossing the entire bed of the river, was passed in the evening of the 27 th ; above it the water became again like a mill pond, and about one hundred yards wide, llie whole of these first shoals, or rapids, embraced an extent of about a mile and a half; the obstruction was not continued, but felt at short intei'vals iu this distance. On the right, about four leagues from the rapids, they passed the " Bayau Aux Boeufs," a little above a rocky hill : high lands and savanna is seen on the right. On soundhig the river they found three fathoms water on a bottom of mud and sand. The banks of the river, above the bayau, seem to retain very little alluvial soil ; the highland earth, which is a sandy loam of a light grey colour, with streaks of red sand and clay, is seen on the left bank ; the soil not rich, bearing pines, interspersed with red oak, hickory and dog- wood. The river is from sixty to one hundred yards wide here, but decreases as you advance. The next rapid is made by a led»c of rocks traversing the river, and narrowing the vater channel to about thirty yards. The m idth between the l:igii bank.s cannot be less than one hundred yards, and the baukt from thirty to forty feet high. In latitude 30,^ 1(1* 13' rapids and shoals again occurred, and the channel was very narrow ; the sand bars, at every point, extended so far into the bend as to leave little more than the breadth of the boat of water suffi* M. and the the of w not Oi at th tliey offer his Fr this ral w treuK Ohio POST OP THE WASHITA. 81 cicntly deep from lier passage, altlioiigli it spreads over a width of seventy or eighty yards upon tiic shoal. In the afternoon of the 31st. they passed a little plantation or settlement on the right, and at night arrived at three others ad- joining each other. Tliese settlements are on a plain or prairie, tlie soil of which we may be assured is ulluvial from the regular alope which the land has from the river The bed of the river is now sufficiently deep to free them from the inconvenience of its inundation; yet in the rear, the waters of the Mississippi ap- pronch, and sometimes leave dry but a narrow stripe along the bank of the river. It is however now more common, that the extent of the fields cultivated (from 4 to J mile) remains dry during the season of iiundation ; the soil here is very good, but not equal to the Mississippi bottoms; it may be esteemed second rp.te. At a small distance to the east are extensive cypress swamps, over which the M'aters of the inundation always stand to the depvh of from fifteen to twenty-five feet. On the west side, after passing over the valley of the river whose breadth varies from a quarter of a mile to two miles, or more, the land assumes a considerable elevation, from one hundred to three hundred feet, and extends all along to the settlements of the Red river. These high lands arc reported to be poor, and badly watered, being chiefly what is termed pine barren. There is here a ferry and road of communication between the post of the Washita, and the Natchez, and a fork of this road passes on to the settlement called the rapids, on Red river, distant from this place by computation one hundred and fifty miles. On this part of the river lies a considerable tract of land grant" cd by the Spanish government to the marquis of Maison Rouge> a French emigrant, who bequeathed it with all his property to M. Bouliguy, son of the late colonel of the Louisiana regiment> and by him sold to Daniel Clarke. It is said to extend from the post of Washita with a breadth of two leagues, including the river, down to the bayau Calumet ; the computed distance of which along the river is called thirty leagues, but supposed not more than twelve in a direct line. On the 6th of November, in the afternoon, the party arrived at the post of the Washita, in lat. 32«» 9Sj 37'' 2i N. where tiiey were politely received by lieut. Bowmar, who immediately offered the hospitality of his dwelling with all the services in his power. From the ferry to this place the navigation of the river is, at this season, interrupted by many shoals and rapids. The gene- ral width is from eighty to a hundred yards. The water is ex- tremely agreeable to drink, and much clearer than that of the Ohio. In this respect it is vei7 uulike its two neighbours, the JLEWIS AND CLAKKE.] L •8 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. Arkansa and Red rivers, whose waters are foaded with earthy matters of a reddish brown colour, giving to them a chocolate- like appearance; and, when tho^e waters are low, are not po- table, being brackish from the great number of salt springs which flow into them, and probably from the beds of rock salt over which they may pass. TIk; banks of the river presented very little appearance of alluvial land, but furnished an infinitude of beautiful landscapes, heightened by the vivid colouring they de- rive from the autumnal changes of the leaf. Mr. Dunbar ob- serves, that the change of colour in the leaves of vegetables, which is probably occasioned by the oxygen of the atmosphere acting on the vegetable matter, deprived of the protecting pow- er of the vita! principle, may serve as an excellent guide to the naturalist who directs his attention to the discovery of new ob- jects for the use of the dyer. For he has always remarked that the leaves of those trees whose bark or wood ai'e known to produce a dye, are changed in autumn to the same colour which IS extracted in the dyers vat from the vvoods; more especially by the use of mordants, as alum, &c. which yields oxygen : thus the foliage of the hickory, and oak, which produces the quer- citron bark, is changed before its fall into a beautiful yellow ; other oaks assume a fawn colour, a liver colour, or a blood co- lour, and are known to yield dyes of the same complexion. In lat. 32^ 18" N. doctor Hunter discovered along the river side a substance nearly resembling mineral coal : its appearance was tliatof the caibonated wood described by Kirwan. It does not easily bum ; but on being applied to the flame of a candle. It sensibly increased it, and yielded a faint smell, resembling in a slight degree, that of the gum lac of common sealing wax. Soft friable stone is common, and great quantities of gravel and sand, upon the beaches in this part of the river. A reddish clay appears in the strata, much indurated and blackened by ex-^ posure to the light and air. The position called fort Miro being the property of a private person, who was formerly civil commandant here, the lieutenant has taken post about four hundred yards lower ; has built him- self some log houses, and inclosed them with a slight stockade. Upon viewing the country east of the river, it is evidently al- luvial ; the surface has a gentle slope from the river to the rear of the plantutiotts. The land is of excellent quality, being a rich black mould to the depth of a foot, under which there is s( friable loam of a brownish liver colour. At tlie post of the Washita, tliey procured a bo^t of less draught of water than the one in which they ascended the river tbus far; at noou, ou the Utb of November, tbey pi:oc.eec|ed ItOQUE RAW, &C. 83 on the voyage, and in the evening encamped at the plantation of Baron Bastrop. This small settlement on the Washita, and some of the creeks falling into it, contains not more than tive hundred persons, of all ages and sexes. It is reported, however, that there is a great quantity of excellent land upon these creeks, and that tlic settle- ment is capable of great extension, and may be expected, with an accession of population, to become very Hourishing. There are three mercliantH settled at the post, who supply, at very exorbitant prices, the inhabitants with their necessaries; these, with the garrison, two small planters, and a tradesman or two, constitute the present village. A great proportion of the in- habitants continue the old practice of hunting, during the winter season, and they exchange their peltry fur necessaries, with the merchants, at a low rate. During the summer these people con- tent themselves with raising corn, barely sufficient for bread during the year. In this manner they always remain extremely poor: some few who have conquered that habit of indolence, which in always the consequence of the Indian mode of life, and attend to agriculture, live more comfortably, and taste a little the sweets of civilized life. 'I'he lands along the river above the post, are not very inviting, being a thin poor soil, and covered with pine wood. To the right, the settlements on the bayau Barthelemi and Siard, are said to be rich land. On the morning of the thirteenth, they passed an island and a strong rapid, and arrived at a little settlement below a chain of rocks, which cross the channel between an island and the main land, called Roque Raw. The Spaniard and his family, nettled here, appear, from their hidolence, to live miserably. The river acquires here a more spacious appearance, being about one hundred and fifty yards wide. In the afternoon thoy passed the bayau Barthelemi on the right, above the last settlements, and about twelve computed leagues from the post. Here com- mences Baron Bastrop's great grant of land from the Spanish government, being a square of twelve leagues on each side, a little exceeding a million of French acres. The banks of the river continue about thirty feet high, of which eighteen feet from the water are a clayey loam of a pale ash colour, upon which the water has deposited twelve feet of light sandy soil, apparent- ly fertile, and of a dark brown colour. This description of land is of small breadth, not exceeding half a mile on each sidl* the river, and may be called the valley of the Washita, beyond M'liich there is higli land covered with pines. The soil of the *^ Bayau des Buttes," continues thin, with a growth of small timber. This creek is named Irum a numbeif It H 84 TRAVBLS IN AMERICA. of Indian mounts discovered by tlu; liuntRis alnr.;; its cnursi>. The ir.argiii of the river bej^ins to be tovtrcd with such timber n» usually ]^rows on inundated land, particularly a species of vhite oak, vulgarly called the over eup oak; its timber is re- markably hard, solid, ponderous and durable, and it produces a large acorn in peat abundance, upon which the bear feed^, and which is very flattering to hogs. In lat. 3'I° 5(.y 8" N. they passed a long and ntnrow island. The face oi the countr)' begins to cluin;re; the banks arc low and 8teep: the river deeper and more contracted, from thirty to iifly yards in width. The soil in the neighbourhood of the river is a verv' sitndy loam, and covered with such vegetables as are fuund on the inundated lands of the Mississippi. The tract presenls the appearance of a new r.oil, very different from w hat they passed beluw. This alluvian tract may be supposed the site of a great lake, drained by a natuial channel, from the abrasion of the vatirs ; since which pi-i iod th<; annual inundations have depo- sited the superior soii ; eighte< .1 or twenty feet is wanting to render it h::bitable for man. It appears, nevertheless, well stock- ed with the beasts of the forest, several of which « ere seen. Quantities of water fowl are b<'<>iniiing to make ihtir appear- ance, which are not very numerous here until the culd rains and frost compel them to leave a more northern eliuiale. I'ihh i^ nor >o abundant as might be exp< cted, owing, it i* said, to tho inundation of the Mississippi, in the year I ?!>!)* which dammed up the Washita, some distance above the post, and produciHl a stagnation and consequent corruption of the waters that de^ stroyed all the tish within its intlutnci;. At noon, on the 15th of Novenibcr, they passed the island of Mallet, and at ninety yards north-east from the upper point of the island, by a good observation ascertained their latitude to be 32° 59' ^7" 5 >J. or two seconds and a half of latitude south of the dividing line between the territories of Orleans and Louisiana. The bed of the river along this alluvial country is generally covered with water, and the navigation un- interrupted; but in the afternoon of this day, they passed three contiguous sand bars, or beaches, called " les trois battures," and before evening the '< bayau de grand Marais,"or great marsh creek on the right, and " la Cypreri Chatttlrau," a point of high land on the other side, which reaches within half a mile of the river. As they advanced towards the marais de saline, on the right, a stratum of dirty white clay under the alluvial tract, shewed them to be leavmg the sunken, and approaching the high land country. The salt lick marsh does not derive Ha name from any brackishness in the water of the lake or marsh, but from its contiguity to some of the licks, sometinies called ** saline," and sometimes " glaise," generally found in a ciny, REAR nUNTINn, &C. 65 i\ compact rnou«;li for potter's ware. Tim bayau do la Tulipe foiiiH a coninuitiicMtiuii bi'tvvoon the lake and ilie river. Op- posite to tiiis place, there is u point of lii;;l» land, fornji:j^ a pruiiioiitory, advancing within a mile uf the river, a'ld to wliirh boats resort when the low «(rotnids are under water. A short league above is the month of the ^rand baynu do la Saline (Salt Lick creek). This creek is of a considerable len<;th, and navi- gable for small boats. 'J'he hunters ascend it, to one hnndrt d of their l<>agties, in pursuit of game, and all aolntion, there exists no rt ason for believing that many of them would produce nitre. Notwithstanding Miis low and alluvial tract appears in all resjwcts well adapted to the growth <»f the long moss (lilandsia), none was observed since entering it in latitude f]*l° 'y'l', and as the pilot informed them nom^ would be seen in then progress up die river, it is probable that the latitude of thirty-three de- grees is about the northern limit of vegetation. The long-leaf pine, frequently the growth of rith and even inundated land, was here observed in great abundance : the shorl-ltnived or pildi piue, on the contrary, is always found upo i arid lands, and ge- nerally in sandy and lolly situutions. 'I'his is the season when the poor setders on die Washita turn out to make dieir annual hunt. The deer i« now fat and the fikins in perfection; the bear is now aiso in his best slate, wiiii regard to the quality of his fur, and the quantity of fat or od he vields, as he has been feastini; luxuriautlv on the antirnnal fruits of the forest. It is here well known that he does not coniine himself, as some writers have supposed, to vegetable food ; he is particularly fond of iiogs flesh ; sheep ami calves are frequent- ly his prey, and no animal escapes him which comes witlim his power, and which he is able to conquer. He often destroys tlie fawn, when chance throws it in his way ; he cannot, however, discover it oy smelling, notwithstanding the excellence of his scent, for nature has, as if for its protection, denied the fawn the property of leaving any eflHuvium upon its track, a property so powerful in the old deer*. The bear, unbke most other * It may not be generally known to nnturnlists, that Itotwern the lioof of the dfLT, &c. there is fuiiiid u sack, with its mouth iiicliniii;:; npwards, coiitainin>; more or loss of musk, and whicli, by escaping o\«.r tlie open- ins;, ill proportion to the secretion, causes the foot to leave a scout on thp f^round wherever it passes. During the riittini^ season t'lis musk is so abundant, particn'arly in old niate*i, as to be siuclt by the bunlerttata cunsidurulilc distouce. 86 rnAVMI.S IN AMERICA. brnsts of prey, dois not kill tlir aiiiniiil he; has seized upon btfore lie ealsit; but Kiruidlcss of its sinii^'glcs, cties and lanieii- tations, lusU'iis upon, ::ikI ii the expiessiuii la allowable, devours it ahve. The hunters count much on their profits from the oil drawn from tiic bears i'at, which, at New Orleans, is uhvays of ready sale, and nutch esteemed for its uhuksomencss in cookin;;, being preferred to butter or ho^s lard. • It is found to keep longer Uian any other animal oil uithout becoming rancid; and boiling it, from time to time, upon su eet bay leaves, restores its sweetness, or facilitutes its conservation. In the afternoon of the ITlh they passed flome snnd beaches, tind over a few rapids. They liad cane brakes on both sides of the river; the canes were suvxW, but demonstrate that the water does not surmount the bank more than a few feet. The river begins to widen as they advance: the banks of the river shew the bigh land soil, with a stratum of three or four feet of alluvion deposited by the river upon it. This superstratum is greyish, and very sundy, with a small admixture of loam, indicative of the poverty of the mountains and uplands where the river rises. Near this they passed throu£>li a new and very narrow channel, in which all the water of the river passes, except in time of freshes, when the interval forms an island. A little above this pass is a small ch-ariuj?, called " Cache la Tulipe" (Tidip's hiding place); this is the name of a rrench hunter who here concealed his })ropcrty. It continues the practice of both the white and red umters to leave their skins, &c. often suspended to poles, or laid over a pole placed upon two forked posts, in sight of the river, until their return from hunting. These deposits are considered as sacred, and few exampl(;s exist of their being plundered. .After passing the entrance of a bay, which within must form a great lake during the inundation, great numbers of the long leaf pine were observed ; and the increased size of the canes along the river's bank, denoted a better and more elevated soil ; on the left was a high hill (:}00 feet) covered with lofty pine trees. The banks of the river present more the appearance of up-* land soil, the under stratum being a pale yellowish clay, and the alluvial soil of a dirty white, surmounted by a thin covering of a brown vegetable earth. 'I'he trees improve in appearance, grow- ing to a considerable size and height, though yet inferior to those on the alluvial banks of the Mississippi. After passing the •' liayau de lliichis," on the left points of high land, not subject to be overflowed, frequently touch the river, and the valley is said to be more than a league in breadth on both sides. On the left are pine hills, called " Code de Champignole." The river is not more than liltv or s'xtv )ards wide. On the morning 1 CUTB DE FINN, &C. 87 a I** of the 20th they pnssi J a number of sand beaches, and some rapids, but found good depth of water l)ctween thcni. A creeic called " Chcinin Coiivut," which forms a deep ravine in the higli lands, here enters the river ; almost immediately uhove this i» a rapid where the water in the river is confined to a ehsnmel of about forty yards in width ; above it they had to quit the main channel, on account of the shidlowuess and rapidity of the water, and paw along a narrow channel of only sixty feet M'ide : without a guide a stranger might take this passage for a creek. Notwithstanding the lateness of the season, and the northern latitude they were in, they tins day met with an alligator. The banks of the river are covered with cane, or thick under brush, frtquently so hiterwoven with thorns and briurn as to be impene- trable. IJirch, mnple, holly, and two kinds of wood to which names have not yet been given, except '* water side wood," are here met with; us also persinions and small black g.apes. The margin of the river is fringed with a variety of plants and vines, among which arc several species of convolvulus. On the left they passed a hill and cliff one hundred feet per- pendicular, crowned with pines, and called ** Cote de Finn" (Fin's hill) from which a chain of high land continues some dis- tance. The cliiV presents the appearance of an ash-coloured clay. A little farther to the right is the Jiiiyau d'Acnsia (Locust creek.) The river varies here !V<>m eighty to an liuiuired yards in width, presenting frequent indications of iron a!;)!' ; it? banks, and some thin strata of iron ore. The ore is from half an inch to three inches in thickness. On the morning of the C2d of Novemhcr, they a ^'d at the road of the Chadadoquis Indian nation, kidding to ti Arkansa nat'.on ; a little beyond this is the Ecor a Frubri (Fabri's cliffs) from 80 to 100 feet high ; and a little distance above, a smaller clifF, called " Le Petit Ecor a Fabri" (the Little Clif!*of Fabri). 7/hese cliffs appear chiefly to be composed of ash-coloured sand, with a stratum of clay at tlie base, such as runs all along under the banks of this river. Above these cliffs arc several rapids ; the current is swifter, and denotes their ascent into a higher country : the water becomes clear, and equal to any in its very agreeable taste, and as drinking water. In the river are immense beds of gravel and sand, over which the water passes with great velocity in the season of its floods, carrying with it vast quantities <^of drift wood, which it piles up, in many places, to the height of twenty feet above the present surface, pointing out the difHculty and danger of navigation in certain times of the flood ; accidents, however, are rare, with the canoes of the country. As the party ascended they found the banks of tlie river less M7 it. f ;i TnAVELS IN AMKUrCA. clrvati'd, biing only from nine to twelvp feet, and arc probably MitniiouiitCii by iIh' frr»h«'s soim- tVet. 'J'lie river becomes mon? nltstrucUid by rapids, Uid .muihI and gravt I beuches, among whieb are found frn|j;incnts of .s|i*,it ol all forms, and a variety of co lours, some lu-^ldy p(tlisliril and romuKd by friction. The banks of tlit: rivtr in tlii.'^ upper country suiTer greatly by abra- Kion, one side and Homelimcs botb being btoken do\«n by every flood. At a place railed " Auges d'Arclon," (Arclon's tronglis) is lumintited iron ore, and a stratum of black sand, very trnucions, shining with minute crystals. 'J'lic breadth of the river is here about eighty >ards : in some places, however, it is enlarged by islands, in otlitrS; contracted to eighty or one hundred feet. Ilocksof a greyish colour, and rather friable, are here found in many places on tlie river *'. On the banks grow willows of a ditVerent form from those found below, and on tlie margin of the Mis- Mssippi ; the hi!>t are very brittle ; these, on the contrary, are ex- tremely pliant^ resembling the osier, of which they are probably a sjKcic! A^ noon on the 24th, they arrived at the confluence of the lesser Missouri with the >\ashita ; the former is a considerable branch, perhaps the iourtii of the Washita, and comes in from the iut't hiind. The hunters often ascend the Little Missouri, but are nol inilnit li to penotratc far up, because it reaches near the great plains or prairi's upon the Ucd river, visited by the lesser Osage trills -.f Indians, settled on Arkansa; these last frequently carry war into the. Chadadoquis tribe settled on the lied river, abcttt wesl-south-west from this place, and indeed they are reported not to spare any nation or people. They are prevented from visiting the head waters of the Washita by the steep lulls in which they rise. These mountains are so dif- ficult to travel over, that the savages, not having an object suffi- ciently desirable, never attempt to penetrate to this river, and it is supposed to be unknown to the nation. The Cadadoquis (or Cadaux, as the FrencI-. )>ionouuce the word) may be considered as Spanish Indians ; tliey boast, and it is said with truth, that they never have imbrued their hands in the blood of a white man. It is said diat the stream of the Little Missouri, some- distance from its mouth, ilows over a bright splendid bed of mi- neral of a yellowish white colour (most probably martial py- rites), that tliirty years ago, several of the inhabitants, hunters. .-, • The banks rise into hills of free stone of a very sharp ami fine grit, fit for grind stones ; ihc stralu irr«ijulttr, inclining from 20" to 30" down the river. / COAt M.i\'E NRAR CACHE MACON •9 ^ovkcd H|)oii this mine, and sent u quantity of tlu* ore to the gu> vernnu'nt ut New OileaiM, and tiiey were prohibited iVoni work- iu^ any more. There is u ^roat sameness in the oppearanco of the rivor banks : the islands arc skirted withoviiT, and immediately Nviihiii, on the bank, grows a range of birch treen and .some willou s ; the more, elevated bunks are covered widi cano, among wliiili grows the oak, maple, elo), sycamore, nsli, hickory, dog-wood, holly, iron-wood, &C. From the pilot they learned that there is a body of excellent land on the Little Missonri, particularly on the creek called the " Hayau a terrc noire," which fulls into it. This land extends to lied river, and is connected with thu great prairies which form die hunting grounds of the Cudau.v nation, consisting of about two hundred warriors. Th(>y are Murlike, but frequently unable to defend themselves a<;;:iinst th« tribe of Osages settled on the Arkanvu river, who, pussin;; round the mountains at the head of die Washita, and along the prairies, M'hich separate them from the main chain on the west, where the M'aters of the Red and Arkansa rivers have their rise, pass into theCadaux country, and rob and plunder them. The water in the river Washita rising, the party are enabled to pass the numerous rapids and shoals which they meet with in the upper country, some of which are difficult of ascent. Hie general heij;ht of the main banks of the river is from six to twelve feet above the level of the water ; tlu; land is better in quality, the canes, &c. shewing a more luxuriant vegetation. It is subject to inundation, and shews a brown soil mixed widi sand. Near Cache Macon (Maison's hiding place), on the right, they stopped to examnie a supposed coal mine : doctor Hunter and the pilot set out for this purpose, and at about a mile and a half north-west from the boat, in die bed of a creek*, they found h substance similar to what they hud before met with under that name, though more advanced towards a stale of perfect coal. At the bottom of die creek, in a pluce then dry, was found detached pieces of from Hfty to one hundred pounds weight, adjoining to which lay wood changing into the same .substance. A stratum of this coal, six niches thick, lay on both sides of diis little creek, over another of yellow clay, and covered by one foot of gravel: on the gravel is eight inches of loam, whieli bears a few inches of vegetable mould. This stratum of coal is about three feet higher than the water in the creek, and appears manifestly to have been, at some period, the surface of the ground. The gravel and loam have been deposited there since, by the waters. • Culled Coal-inine crcck. LEWIS AND CLAUK£.] M IK) TOAVRLS IN AMBRICAI. Some piocos of (liincoiil wi-rc vciv bluck ami lolii], of iinTioiTn>« gcnooiiH n|)|H>aruiK'r, inucli rcsemblin<4 pit coul, but of less 8|M*(-i- fic Krinitv. ItdocA not appear sunitit nll> iiiipn ;:iintci1 with bi- tiinieii, but may be cunsidcrcd an vcgrlabtu uiuttvr in the progioi of trauhuuilalion to coal. lU'loNv the ** H;i\au tie IVau Froiih'," wbicli runs into the \\ asliita from tluM'i*;lit, tlir river is 1*0 yarils, llowin;; tliroii«{ii toleralily «:oo(l land. 'Hm ypusiied a beautiful Airestt of pint s, and on the '2^l\\ fell in witli un old Duteli bunter and lii:i puity^ consisting in all of five persons. 'J his man has resided forty years on the Washita, and before that period, has been up the Arkausta rivrr, the White river, and the river St. I'Vaiici.<^ ; the two last, he informs, are of dii^eult iiavi^^ation, similar to the Washita ; bnt the Arkansa river is of great mapuitude, haviu*; a lar^e and broiul chaniH.'l,and when the water is low, luis «;reat sinul banks, like those in the Mississippi. .So far as be has been up it, the navigation is safe and commo- dious, without iuipediments from rocks, shoals, or rapids, its bed being formed of mud and sand. The soil on it is of the fust- rate quality, "^rhe cagreeab!e to druik, being of a red colour, and brackish when the river is low. A multitude of creeks which flow into the Arkan*ia furnish sweet water, which the voyager is obliged to carry with him for the supply of hi» immediate wants. Hiis man conlirms the accounts of silver being abundant up that river: be has i.jt been so high ns to see it himself; but says he received a silver pin from a hunter, who assured him that he himself col- lected the virgin silver from the rock, out of which he made the epinglete by hammering it out. The tribe of the Osage live higher up tlian this position, but the hunters rarely go so high, being afraid of these savages, who are at war w ith all the world, and destroy all strangers they meet with. It is reported that the Arkansa nation, with a part of the Choetaws, Chickasaw s, bhawiieese, Scc. have formed a league, and are actually gone, or gojng, SCX) strong, against these depredators, with a view to de- stroy or iiri'.c them entirely off, and possess themselves of tlu ir iine prairies, which arc most abundant bunting ground, b* ing plentifully stocked vviUi buifaloe, elk, deer, bear, ami every ollur benst of the chase common to those latitudes in America, 'iliis hunter having given inffirmuiiou of a small spring in their vici- nity, from which he frequently supplied himself by evaporating the water, doctor Hunter, with a parly, accompanied liim, on the morriiugof the ^gth November,, to the place. They found a saline, about a mile and a half north of the camp from whence they set out, and near a creek which euters the SVashita a little Jen TOlRrHr. OE rAT)Al\. m nbovr. Ft ii situatt'H in the hottotn of the Im'<1 o( u dry jrullrv. Tlir siiirniiiuiiii;; land is ruli nmi ui'll tiiiil>ii« d, but ^iiltjiTt io imimiution, except an liuiian mount on tliu cri>t*k side, Imviiig a base of ei*;;lity or a hundred foet (hanivtcr, and twenty feet l>i<;h. After di}j;'j;in«4 uhout tliree feet, tlirougli blue clay, they came to a «)uirk Miuid, from wliieh the water flowed in abundance : it<4 tustu wail suit and bitter, re.sembling that of water in the ocean. In a second hole, it required them to dig six feet before they reached the quick sand, in doin;^ w hicli they tlirew u|t several broken pieces of Indian pottery. The upecirtc gravity, compared \\i\\\ the river, va«t, frouf the fust pit, or that tluee feet deep, I,()'i7-0, from the second pit, or that six feet deep, l,()*|()i, yieidinj; a sniine njass, from the evaporation of ten •jU'.uts, whifater. The shoals and ra- pids here impede their progress. At noon they deduced their latitude, by observation, to be r)0° H' .'J? ' N. Receiving in- formation of another salt lick, or saline, doctor Hunter landed, with a party, to view it. The pii was found in a low flat place, subject to be overllowed from the river ; it wns wet and muddy, the earth on the siirfru'e yellow, but on di':,' iig through about four feet of blue clay, the salt water oo/o*! from a quick sand. Ten quarts of this water produced, by evaporation, six ounces of a saline mass, which, from taste, was principally marin*- salt ; to the taste, however, it shewed an admixture of soda, and nui- riated magnesia, but the niarhie salt greatly preponderat«.*d. The specitie gravity was about I,()70, prolrably weakened from the rain w liich had fallen the day before. The ascent of the river be- comes more troidilesome, from the rapids and currents, jiailieu- Jarly at the ** isle du bayau des Roches" (Uocky creek inland), where it required great exertions, and was attended with some luizarii to pass them. 'J'his island is t'uee-lburths of a mile in length, 'riie river presents a series of shoals, rapids, and small cataracts ; and they passed several points of high land, fidl of rocks and stones, much harder anil more solid than they had yet met fi'ith. The rocks were all silicious, with their ilssureg penetrate d liy sparry matter. Indications of iron were frequent, and fragments M '2 99 TH^VCLS in AMERICA. of poor ore were common, but no rich ore of thai or any other metal was found. Some of the hills appear well adapted to the cultivatiuu of the vine ; the soil being a sandy loam, with a con- siderable proportion of gravely and a superficial covering of good vegetable black earth. The nature! productions are> several va- rieties of oak, pine, dog-wood, holly, Su:. with a scattering undergrowth of w hortlel>erry, h^iwthorn, china briar, and a va- riety of small vines. Above the Isle de Mallon, the country wears another pros- pect : high lands and rocks frequently approach the river. The rocks in grain resemble free stone, and are hard enough to be used as hand mill-stones, to which purpose they are Tiequently applied. The quality of the lands improves, the stratum of vege- table earth bcinr* fro- 1 six to twelve inches, of a dark brown colour, with an admixture of loam and sand. Below Deer Island they passed a stratum of free stone, fifty feet thick, under which is a quarry of in: perfect slate in perpendicular layers. About a league from the river, und a little above the slate quarry, is a considerable plain, called " Prairie de Champignole," often frequented by bufifaloe. Some salt licks are found near it, and in many situations on both sides of this river, there are aid to be salines which may hereafter be rendered very proc ictive, and from which tlic future settlements may be abu^ -lantly supplied. About four miles below the " chuttes" (falls), they, fr n a good observation, found the latitude 34'* 21' Sio' 5. The laud on either hand continues to improve in quality, with a suf :ient stratum of dark earth of a brov nish colour. Hills freq :ntly rise out of the level country, full of rocks and stones, ha , and flinty, and often resembling Turkey oil stones. Of thi. '^^md was a promontory which came hi from the right hand, a little below the chuttes ; at a distance it presented the appearance of ruined buildings and fortitications, and several insulated masses of rock, conveyed the idea of redoubts and out-wurks. This effect was hcighttiutd by the rising of a Hock of swans which h^d taken their station in the water, at the foot of these walls. As tiie voyagers approached, the birds Hoated about niajestically on the glassy sut iace of the water, and in trenmlous accents ctecmed to consult upon means of safety. The whole w?is a sublime picture. In llie afternoon of the »''d of December, ihey reached the cluiltes, and found the falls to be occasioned by a chain of rocks of the same hard substance seen below, exi- tending in the direction of north-oast and south-west, quite •cro§3 the river. The water passes through a number of branches WQjfU b^f the impotuosisy of the torrent where it forms so inany i\u V«t^, ' ■ rODRCHE OF CALFAT, 8CC. 93 a icr, led ext- ols cascades. Tlic chain of rock or hill on the left, appears to have been cut down to its present level by the abrasion of the waters. By great exertion, and lightening the boat, tliey passed the cliuttes tiiis evening, nnd encamped just above tiie cataracts, und within the hearing of their incessant roar. Immediately above the chuttes, the current of the water i.i slow, to another ledge of hard free stone ; liio reach between ?s spacious, not less than two hundred yards ^vide, and terminated by a hiii, three hundred feet high, covered with beautiful pines: this is a line situation for building. In latitude 34*-' 23' 48" they passed a very dangerous rapid, from the number of rocks which obstruct the passage of the water, and break it into foam. Ou the right of the rapid is a high rocky hill, covered M'ith very handsome pine M'oods. The strata of the rock has an inclina* tion of 30" to the horizon, in the direction of the river descend- ing. 'I'his hill may be three hundred or diree hundred and fifty feet high ; a border or list of green cane skirts the margin of the river, beyond which generally rises a high, aiul sometimes a barren hill. Near another rapid they passed a hill on the left, containing a large bodv of blue slate. A small distance above the bayau de Saline Uiey had to pass a rapid of one hundred and fifty yards hi length, and four feet and a half fall, which, from its velocity, the French have denominated " La Cascade." Be- low the cascade there are rocky hills on both sides composed of vei'y hard free stone. The stone in the bed of the river, and which has been rolled from the upper country, was of the hard- est flint, or of a quality resembling the Turkey oil stone. ** Fourchc au Tygree" (Tyger's creek), which comes in from the light, a little above the cascade, is said to have many extensive tracts of rich level land upon it. The rocky hills here frequently npproach Uic Washita on both sides ; rich bottoms are never- theless infrequeht, and the Upland is sometimes of moderate el« - vation and tolerably level. The stones and rocks here met widi have their fissures HUed by sparry and crystalline matter. Wild turkics become more abundant and It ss difficult of ap- proach than below ; and the howl of the wolves is heai d during ilu* night. To the " Fourche of Calfat" (Caulker's creek) where the voy- age terminates, they found level and good land on the right and high hi. Is on the left hand. After passing over a very precipi- lous ri»})id, seemingly divided into four steeps or falls, one of wiiicli svas at least lilteen inches iii perpendicular height, and j.\hich together could not be less than five and a half feet, they arrived at Ellis's camp, a small distimce below the Fourrhe au the Gth of December, as the pi- i" they slopped o. w TnAVELS IN AMERICA. v-«. lot considered it the most convenient landing from wlience trt carry their necessary baggage to tlic hot springs, tite distance being about three leagnes. There is :i creek abont two leagues higher up, called " bayau des sources chauds" (li<>t spring creek), upon the banks of which the hot springs are .sitiiatcul at about two leagues from its mouth. T'hc banks of it are liilly, and the road less eligible than from Ellis's camp. On ascending the hill to encamp, they found the land very level and good, some plants in flower, and a great many ever- green vines; the forest oak with an admixture of other woods. The latitude of this place is 34*^ 27' 31" .>. 'J'he ground on which they encamped was about fifty feet above the water in the river, and supposed to be thirty feet higher than the inundations. Hills of considerable height, and clothed with pine, were in \iew, but the land around, and extending beyond tlieir view, lies handsomely for cultivation. The superstratum is of a blackish- brown colour, upon a yellow basis, the whole intermixed with gravel and blue schistus, frequently so far decomposed as to have a strong alluminous ta^te. Trom their camp, on the V\ aslrtn, to the hot springs, a distance of about nine miles, the first six miles of the road is in a westerly direction, without many sinuo- sities, and the remainder northwardly, which courses are neces- sary to avoid some very steep hills. In this distance, they found three principal salt licks, and some inferior ones, which are all frequented by buffaloe, deer, &c. The soil around them is a white tenacious clay, probably fit for potters' ware : hence the name of "glaise," which the French hwuters have bestowed upon most of the licks, frequented by the beasts of the forest, many of which exhibit kio saline impregnation. The first two miles from the river camp is over level land of the second-rate (juality ; the timber, chiefly oak, intermixed with other trees common to the climate, and a few scattering pines. Turther on, the lands on either hand rise into gently swelling hills, covered with handsome pine woods. The road passes along a valley, frequently wet by the numerous rills and springs of excellent water which issue from the loot of the hills. Near the hot spring* the hdls become more elevated, steeper of ascent, and rocky. They are here called mountains, although none of them in view excet-d four or tivi^ hundred feet in altitude. It is said, that mountains of more than five times the elevation of these hills are to be seen in the north-west, towards the sources of the Washita. One of them is called the glass, crystal, or shining mountain, from the vast number of hexagonal prisms of Very transparent and colourless crystal which are found on its sur- face; they are generally surmounted by pyramids at one end, ACCOUNT OF HOT SPRINGS. 95 rarely on both. These crystals do not produce a double re- fraction of the rny.s of light. Many searches have been made uver these mountains for tlie precious metals, but it is believed >vithout success. At the hot springs they found an open log cabin, and a few huts of split boards, all calculated for summer encampment, and uhich had bvvu erected by persons resorting to Uie springs for the recovery of their health. They slightly repaired tliese huts, or cabins, for their accom- modutiun during the time of their detention at the springs, for the purpose of examining tluun and the surrounding country ; and making such astrononiicul obst rvatiovrs as \\ ere necessary for ascertainhig their geographical position. It is understood that the hot springs arc included within a grant of some huiwlred acres, granted by the late Spanish com- mandant of llie Washita, to some of his fricnfls ; but it is not believed that a regular patent was ever issued for the place ; and it cannot be asserted that residence, with improvement here, form a plea to claim the lund upon. On their arrival, they iininedialciy tasted the Waters of the liot springs, tliat is, after a few minutes cooling, for it was im- possible to approach it with the lips M'hen first taken up, with- out scalding : the taste does not dificr from that of good water, rendered hot by culinary lire. On the lOlh they visited all the hot springs. They isstie on the east side of the valley, where the huts are, except one spring, which rises on the west bank of the creek, from tlie sides and foot of a hill. From the small quantity of calcareous mat- ter yet deposited, the western spring does not appear to be of long standing : a natural conduit probably passes under the bed of the creek, and supplies it. Ther«i are four principal springs ri- sing immediately on the east bank of the creek, one of which may be lather said to spring out of the gravel bed of the run ; a fifth, a smaller one than that above mentioned, as rising on the west side of the creek ; and a sixth, of the same magnitude, the most northerly, and rising near the bank of the creek : these are all the sources that merit the name of springs, near the huts ; but there is a considerable on6 below, and all along, at intervals, tiie warm water oozes out, or drops from the bank into the creek, as appears from the condensed vapour floating along the margin of the creek where the drippings occur. The hill from which the hot springs issue is of a conical form, 'terminating at the top with a few loose fragments of rock, covering a flat space tweuty-iive feet in diameter. Al- though the figure of the hill is conical it is not entirely insulated, sd *rRAVELS in A^tERl^A* but connected with the ncighhoiiring hills by a very narrow ru\0t The primitive rock of this hill, above the base, is princi|niliy silicioiis, some part of it being of the hardest flint, others^ freestone extremely compact and solid, and of various colours. The base of the hill, and for a considerable extent, is composed of a blackish blue schistus, which divides into perpendicular lamina like blue slate. The water of the hot springs is, there- fore, vater will be tbundj either running over the 8urfuce, or throujih some channel, perhaps below the new rock, or dripping from the edges of the overhanpng precipice. The progress of nature in the formation of this new rock is curious, and worthy the atti-ntion of the mineralogist. When the hot water issues from the fountain, it frequently spreads over a superficies of some extent; so far as it reaches, on either hand, there is a deposi- tion of, or growth of green matter. Several lamina of this green matter will be found lying over each other, and immediately under, and in contact with the inferior lamina, which is not thicker than paper, is found a whitish substance resembling a coaguluni ; when viewed with a microscope, this last is also found to con- sist of several, sometimes a good number of lamina^ of which that next the green is the finest and thinnest, being the last for- med ; those below increasing in thickness and tenacity until the last terminates in a soft earthy matter, which reposes in the more solid rock. £uch lamina of the congulum is penetrated in all its parts by calcarious grains, extremely miimte, and divided in the more recent web, but nmch larger and occupying the whole of the inferior lamina. The understratum is continually consolidating, and adding bulk and height to the rock. When this acquires such an elevation as to stop the passage of the wa- ter, it finds another course over the rock, hill, or margin of the creek, forming, in turn, accumulations of matter over the whole of the adjacent space. When the water has found itself a new channel, the green matter, which sometimes acquires a thickness of half an inch, is speedily converted into a rich ve- getable earth, and becomes the food of plants. The surface of the calcarious rock also decomposes and forms the richest black mould intimately mixed with a considerable portion of soil ; plants and trees vegetate luxuriantly upon it. On examining a piece of groun'd upon which the snow dissolved as it fell, and which was covered with herbage, they found, in some places, a calcarious crust on the surface ; but in general a depth of five inches to a foot of the richest black mould. The surface was sensibly warm to the touch. In the air the mercury in the thermometer stood at 44° j when placed four inches under the surface, and covered with earth, it rose rapidly to 68° ; and upon the calcarious rock, eight inches be- neath the surface, it rose to 80°. This result was uniform over the whole surface, which was about a quarter of an acre. On searching they found a spring, about fifteen inches undci the surface, in the water of which the thermometer shewed a temperature of 130°. Beneath the black mould was found a brown mixture of lime and silex, very loose and divisiblcj, ap- SOIL NEAR HOT SPRINGS. 101 icy )Ut ick the :ed >se )e- kver Idci Ida jida ap- parently i;i a state of decomposition, and progrcs-Hinp; towards the i'oimation of black inonld ; under this brownish nutss it be- came gradually whiter and harder, to the depUi of from six to twelve inches, wlure it uas a » alcarious sparkling stone. It was evident thai the water had j>a.*5*td over this plac , land for med a tlat Mipcilicies of silicious litntstoue ; and that its posi- tion, nearly h vi 1, had facilitated the accunuilatiun of earth, in proportion as the decomposition advanced. Similar spot's of ground were found higher up the hill, resembling little savannas, near which hot springs were ahvays discovered, which had once flowed over them. It appears probabh' that the hot water of the springs, at an early period, had all issued from its grand reservoir in the hill, at a much greater ehvalion than at present. The calcarious crust may be traced up, in most situations on the west siand studded with rock and stone of the hardest flint, and other silicious com- pounds, and a superficies of two or three inches of good mould covers a red clay ; below, on the secondary hill, which carries evident marks of recent formation, no flint, or silicious stone, is found ; the calcarious rock conceals all from view, and is, itself, fre<|uently covered by much fine rich earth. It would seem that tiiis compound, precipitated from the hot waters, yields easily to the influence of the atmosphere ; for where the waters cease to flow over any portion of the rock, it speedily decom- poses; ; probably more rapidly from the heat communicated I I 102 TRAVELS IN AMERIOA. fniin the interior of tlic hili, ns insulated musses of the rock ure observed to remain without change. The cedar, the wax myrtle, itnd tlie rafisiim ynpon, all everpeeus, attach thcniseives particularly to tho culcarions re- gion, and seem to grow and titrive even in the cicib of the solid rock. A «prin«:, enjoying a freedom of position, proceeds with great regularity in depositing the matter it holds in solution ; the border or rim of its busin forms an elevated rid^'e, from Mhenre proceeds a glacis all around, where the waters have flowed for some time over one part of the brim ; this becomes more elevated, and the water has to seek a passage where there is less resistance, thus forming, in miniature, a crater, resem- bling in shape the conical sunnnit of a volcano. The hill being steep above, the progress of petrifaction is stopped on that side, and the watera continue to How and spread abroad, incrust- ing the whole face of the hill below. The last formed calca- rious border of the circular basin is soft, and easily divided ; at a small depth it is more compact ; and at the depUi of six inches it is generally hard white stone. If the bottom of the basin is stirred up, a quantity of die red calx of iron rises, and escapes over the summit of the crater. Visitants to the hot springs having observed shrubs and trees with their roots in the hot water, have been induced to try expe- riments, by sticking bo'anches of trees in the run of hot water. Some branches of the wax myrtle were found thrust into the bottom of a spring run, the water of which was 130" by Fah- renheit's thermomeier ; the foliage and fruit of the branch were not only sound and heahhy, but at the surface of the water roots were actually sprouting from it : on pulling it up the part which had penetrated the hot mud was found decayed. The green substance discoverable at. the bottom of the hot springs, and which at first sight has the appearance of plush, on examination by the microscope, was found to be a vegetable production. A film of green matter spreads itself on the cal- carious base, from which rises fibres more than half an inch in length, forming a heautifid vegetation. Before the microscope it sparkled with innumerable nodules of lime, some part of which was beautifully crystalized. This circumstance might cause a doubt of its being a true vegetable, but its great resemblance to some of the mosses, particularly the byssi, and the discovery whicli Mr. Dunbar made of its being the residence of animal life, confirmed his belief in its being a true moss. After a diligent search he discovered a very mi- nute shell fish, of the bivalve kind, inhabiting this moss ; its shape nearly that of the fresh water muscle ; the colour of the CAUSK or HOT SPRINGS. lOS shvll a greyish brown, M'ith spots of a purplish colour. When the aniintil iy undisturbed, it opens the shell, and thrusts out four legs, very trnns|)areiit, and articulated like those of a qua- druped ; the extreniilie.'i of the fore legs are very slender and shai'|>, but those of the hind legs somewhat broader, apparently armed with minute toes : from the extremity of each shell is sues three or four forked hairs, which the aninnd seems to pos- sess the power of moving ; the fore-legs are probably formed for making incisions into the moss for the purpose of procuring access to the juices of the living plant, upon\^hich, no doubt, it feeds : it may be provided with a proboscis, although it did not appear while the animal was under examination : the hind legs are well adapted for propelling it in its pr six iiuhcs; nmlit U llic opinionoftlic people upon the Wanliita, tluii ulic^nt will grow Ihmu lo groHt perfection. i\ltliniiv;h tlie liiglit r liilU, id' iMiiuired to vix hmidred feet in liei<;lit, lire very roclcy, fit tii«> uili lior hills, and the sloping bn^cii of thclirst, .re gfiitrull) covered with u soil of a middling «^iiality. The iiuttiial f/roductions are Hiiflieiciitly luxuriant, coii> sistiiig chieHy of hhuk aiitl i l .i ^ "'ent of ^h. "1ft ""''. » >"=■•> *e'io"s obstacle ll ^ ' ""•'''^ «,i.: 1 ""^ '"ft. as It is calUI. ,i . . "<^> "'e cominence. '^"ch conceals the ,vhole river .i,'''!' ''' ," "«''™' '-erarg jeagues, coiitimia] y au.r,„e„,;„' . l^"^ f^ "««" of seve„tee.? i f 108 TRAVELS IN AMERICA. ture, unaided, will excavate a passage sufficient for the waters of Red river. About fifty leagues above this natural bridge, is the residence of tlic Cadcaux or Cadadoquie.s nation, whose good qualities arc already mentioned. The inhabitants estimate the post of Nakito^h to be half way between New Orleans and the Cadeaux nation. Above this point the navigation of lied river is said to be embarrassed by many rapids, falls, and shal- lows. The Arkansa river is said to present a safe, agreeable, and uninterrupted navigation as high as it is known. 1'hc lands on each side are of the best quality, and well watered with sprites, brooks, and rivulets, affording many situations for mill-seats. From description, it would seem that a lung thi the prairie country, where the lands on both rivers are probably similar. About two hundred leagues up the Arkansa is an interesting placc^ called the Salt prairie. Tliere is a considerable fork of the river there, and a kind of savanna where the salt water i» continually oozing out, and spreading over the surface of a plain . During the dry summer season the salt maybe raked up in large heaps ; a natural crust of a hand breadth in thickness is formed at this season. Tliis place is not often frequented, on account of the danger from the Osage Indians ; much less dare the white hunters venture to ascend higher, where it i-^ generally believed that silver is to be found. It is further said, that high up the Arkansa river salt is found ui form of a solid rock, and may be dug out with the crow-bar. The waters of the Arkansa, like those of Red river, are not potable during the dry season, being both charged highly with a reddish earth or mould, and extremely brackish. This inconvenience is not greatly felt upon the Ark- ansa, where springs and brooks of fresh water frequent : the Red river is understood not to be so highly favoured. Every account seems to prove that immense natural magazines of salt must exist in the great chain of mountains to the westward ; as all the rivers in the summer season, which flow from them, are .stron<;ly impregnated with that mineral, and are only remlercd |>aliit- abl« after receiving the numerous streams of fresh w alor n\ liicli join them in their course. Tlie great western prairies, besides the herds of wild cattle (bison, commonly called bufi'aloe), are also stocked with vast numbers of wild goat (not resembling the domestic goat), extremely swift footed. As the description given df this goat is not perfect^ it may trom its swiftness prove ANTELOPE, tJNiCORN, &C. 109 of liile ea [the be like ing ely Irk- lied lunt lust (the lut- licli liies lare lUic [ion love to be ttie antelope, or it possibly may bo a •i^oat nhicli has csra|)ed from the Spanish settlements of New Mexico. A Canadian, who had been much with th« Indians to the westward, speaks of a wo<^!- bearing animal, larger than a sheep, the wool nuieh mixed witit hair, which he had seen hi large Hocks. Me pretr nds also t«> have seen a unicorn, tl>e single horn of which, he savs, rises out of the forehead and curls buck, conveying the idea of the f'i!«^ sil cornu anunonis. This man says, he iias travelfcd beyond the great dividing ridge so far as to nave seen a large river Bow- ing to the westward. 'l'l»e great dividing mountain is w lofty, that it requires two days to ascend from the base to its top ; otficr ranges of inferior mountains lie before and behind it ; they are all rocky and sandy. Large lakes and vallies lie btl>\c't'n the mountains. Some of the lakes are so large as to contain consi- derable islands, and rivers ftow from some of them, (.jreat numbers of fossil bones, of very large dimensions, ai-e seen among tlie mouutains, which the Canadian supposes to be the ele|>hant. He does not pretend tdh.ive seen any of the precious metals, but has seen a mineral which he supposes might yield copper. From the top of the hitih mountain the view is bounded by a curve as upon the ocean, and extends o\er the most beautiful j)rairic8, which seenj to be unbounded, particularly towards the east. The finest of the lauds lie has .«cen arc on the Missouri ; no other can compare in ricluiess and ferlility with them. 'Urn Canadian, as well as Le Fcvrc, speak of the Osagrcs of tli« tribe of Whitehairs, as lawless and imprincipled ; and the other IiKlian tribes hold them in abhorrence as a hai barons ami unci- vilized race ; and the different nations who hunt in their neigh- bourhood, have their concerting phuis for their ile.«tructioii. ()n the morning of the 1 Ith, the party passed the jx^tit ecor a Fabri. The osier, which grows on the be aches above, is not awn below upon this river ; and here they begtai to meet with the small tree called " charnier," which grows only on the water side, v,v.(\ is met >vith alt the way down the Washita. The latitude of .^J" 40' seems the northern bountlary of the one, and the southern boundary of the other of those vcgotwbles. Having noticed the limit set to the long inoss(Telandsia), on the ascent of the river, in latitude 33°, Mr. Dunbar made inquiry of Mr. l.e Fevre, as to its existence on the Arkansa settlement, which is knov.nto lie In about the same parallel ; he said, that its growth is limited about ten miles south of the settlement, and that as remarkab!/ as if a line had been drawn cast and west r the purpose, as it ceases all at once, and not by degrees. Hence it appears, lh'.it nature has ma;kcd with a distinguishing feature the line esta- blished by congress, between the Orleans and Louisiana tt^i rito- il no TRAVELS IN AMERICA. lies. Tlie cypress is not found on the Washita higher than 34 degrees of north latitude. J n ascending the river^ they found their rate of going to exceed that of the current about six miles and a half in twenty^four hours ; and that on the ISth they had passed the apex of the tide or wave, occasioned by the fresh, and were descending along an inclined plnne : as they encamped at night, they found themselves in deeper water the next morning, and on a more elevated part of the inchned plane than they had b«icn in the preceding eveU' ing, from the progress of the apex of the tide during their re))oae. At noon, on the l6th, they reached tlie post of the Washita. Mr. Dunbar being anxious to reach the Natchez as early as possible, and being unable to procure horses at the post, took a 4'anoe with one soldier and his own domestic, to push down to the Catahoola, from whence to Concord there is a road of thirty miles across the low grounds. He set off early on the morning of the 20th, and at night reached the settlement of an old hunter, with whom he had conversed on his way up the river. This man informed him, that at the place called the Mine, on the Little Missouri, there is a smoke which ascends perpetually irom a particular place, and that the vapour is sometimes insup- portable. The river, or a branch of it, passes over a bed of mi- neral, which from the description given is, no doubt, martial pyrites. In a creek, or branch of the Fourche a' Luke*, there is found on the beaches and in the cliii's a great number of globu- lar bodies, some as large, or larger, than a man's head, which, when broken, exhibit the appearance of gold, silver, and precioijs stones, most probably pyrites and crystalizcd spar. And at the Fourche des Glaises a' Paul (higher up the river than Fourche a* Luke), near the river there is a cliff full of hexagonal prisms, terminated by pyramids, which appear to grow out of the rock: they are from six to eight inches in length, and some of them are an >nch in diameter. There are beds of pyrites found in several small creeks communicating with the Washita, but it appears that the mineral indications are greatest on the Little Missouri, be- cause, as before noted, some of the hunters actually worked on them, and sent a parcel of the ore to Mew Orleans. It is the be- lief here, that the mineral contains precious metal, but that the Spanish government did not choose a mine should be opened so ntar to the British settlements. An express prohibition was is- sued against working these mines. * Tiiree Ictigues above EUi&'s camp. " &^:^:i *^'-- D..nbar ob,„i„ed one Some «ore of ,V ''•'^"'■J' ''<''"'-<= <'-at„ri°v Iv? "'^,Mi«<«<» •ouches the rivet "' 'V'"""'' » "»' 'irs Wll '^i, ';'• y'r"" « has 'he other is ,1"" "'^»'«'. above ,he I "v. '«/' ^'' "''■'■<^'' "'«e are t«^ n'L ''7:1'' ''%'' 'and on tltl? *^"'."!"«> a„rt "'•he hii" Tjf "' »P»""> Willie ft,5^'.'"fP'-ol'aWe ll.e,„. "'■"<' "'e> meet, and perhaps e"' J" ""•■ *""«'» «» vl)icli is termed the blovviii;; of the mountains ; it is con- fined clastic gas forcing a passage through the side or top of a liill, driving before it ti great quantity of earth and mineral mat- ter. During the "^vintLT season the explosions antl blowing of the mountains entirely cease, from whence we may conclude, that the cause is comparatively superficial, being brought into action by the increased heat of tlie more direct rays of the sum- mer .sun. The connucnce of the Washita, Catahoola, and Tenza, is an interesting place. The last of these conmumicutes with the JNIississippi low land. 65 N, \y. I.'jiht riourls. * 27 n 73 — 64 Norlli, Ho;ir fro-t, i'v^ on river; • • ' ' '. r' clear above. ' • A 2R 40 7.1 56 63 ._ ' ..;■ ■>'' } .mm 29 41 85 62 m N\V. ^W. Fog on river. — 30 47 83 60 ()0 w, X. w. Ko.sj on rivtr; t-bar above. „ 31 4^ Kl — 62 N N \V. Ditto, ditto November 1 IK R-> 64 62 __ Calm ond clear above. ■* ... 2 48 84 7» 62 S. S. I'.. Some light clouds. , Clear. '' "' ' ^ •n>, .3 52 K6 72 <>4 — \m^ 4 54 83 63 64 Jf'. . 5 52 68 5ft 62 N. W. Heavy focr and damp air. .' ;^? *l 6 45 79 — 64 W<>t. Heavy fog. .^ 7 58 80 67 64 — Clear. Lat. 32© 29' N. — 8 53 61 56 58 — Cloudy. A djsaj;recable damp' day. .., 9 42 72 — 61 -_ Cloudy, damp and cold. , .f — 10 40 7': 34 58 — . Cleur iind ealui. ~_ n 21 — — 53 — Do. ditto — 12 36 — 54 51 — Cltar & oalm ; cloudy evening — »• 13 3;j 66 62 •55 Siitith. Foa: on river; calm evening; cloudy — u 44 58 44 5i — Clear and calm. — l.S 38 60 50 54 — Clear ami calin. » — 16 3S 51 42 54 North. Morning calm; afccruooN cloudy, damp it disagreeable. "* i 17 40 41 44 54 — ■ Calm, top: on riv. lat. 3:>^ 13' .V. 18 32 — 57 52 — Serene mornmg ; cloudy even. _^, 19 54 67 62 54 — Cloudy ; calm. ^^^ 20 59 (>l 54 54 — Cloudy; calm. „__ 21 43 72 58' 54 — Calm ; a little fog. - » ■• 22 40 68 — — \ 48 7-2 54 54 — ]Light clonils; calm. . 24 4S '2 59 54 — L'^ht clouds; calm. , 1 25 ^ — — — — Haiuy. ^^. 26 50 68 6'2 57 — iCIear. .M 27 54 71 66 58 ~ IClou.lv. ^__ 28 68 78 73 60 _ Cloudy ; calm. — 29 72 76 52 62 South. Cloudy & strong wind ; rain i' A. AI. clear at noon. _ 30 32 57 — 60 — Cloudy and calm. Ja 11 nuarj ''"yoithemonih 1804. 1805. "^"'iWiS:^"--' Harand ^., fU.^ar a«d ,.aio,. K 7 «"«' calm. ,'-^.34o?r'^^;"^ moderate. Cloudv, dark t ^ ^^'' "^ 't'/c h'f »"J "da's"*" ^ »'>'■'■ cloudy 1 „l°'^' ""fk «nj I ff'ound. ^ ' s'"^* on ^.^'« "nd cloudy. ,.v fe!'"«i ^od'SaJ;.''"-^"^^'- iC oudy. t''---*'- and w,„dr ' nftei„ro„""™'"- «"o»- m ' St;;'^ "'""">' after ^ f..id. ' "** "'?* very ""■ /Snoiv. ' ■ '*'• p'nd moderate. .V. \y, s r. 'r-i %ii no I'-'t. I fe f Timeof observ. Day of the month 1805. January 9 — 10 «- 11 — 12 ~ 13 U 15 16 ir 18 19 201 fil 22 Q3 24 35 26 27 28 Sun '« Kise. •-»;l iJ'v Wt-U* 1 £9 30 31 TIlEUMUMblER. 42° 23 11 20 27 23 30 36 60 56 21 it 49 55 36 32 24 26 34 36 56 ••5 P M •360 32 32 43 53 5.1 63 65 58 51 36 48 64 50 40 36 50 56 56 55 In JPJli Rivfi Water. 240 lU 26 30 30 32 43. 60 50 40 26 40 54 46 40 33 32 40 53 440 42 39 40 40 40 40 41 44 43 43 40 39 4i^' 43 40 42 44 34 34 38 Wind. .^3 ' .'.-»; .»;^tl"'>',n.--. I:, i\ . '-s : '|v.ur.'i.-.;7 111 Vf i'.': ,•..>■' (•■.♦. ^ t. .fj'il^*' • .w -•, v Wetthenmil M H ferc l agl o l Phenomena, lie. ■ r4 '"I North. North. N. t. N. w. 8. E. S. W. S. W. East. N. E. S. E. V. E. East. North. North. N. B. S. E. ^ Dark, cloudy and eotd, with hail. Cold and damp. Lat. 34^ N. Pine mornin^^, and very cold The air damp and penetrating. Morning flric and dry ; even- ing moist. Light wind ; atmosphere dry. Cloudy ; Wind light. •\t Port Miro. Lat 32© 30' N. Cloudy. Clear, p 1 ; . Cloudy, and drtzzly rain. Wind variable. Weather raw ai.^ cold. Cloud.? and drir/ly ra#. Rain. Lat. 3lo*r''N. Windy; cold avi raw. " Stormy and snow. Lat. Sio N. On Mississippi river ; clear and moderate. Fine weather. Raw and cloudy. Cloudy and moderate. 1 I ... -> IE ■,(. '■i-- i r 1 ISND OF LEWIS AND CLARKE S TRAVELS. iJ. 1. .•si- ■1 id eold, With Lat. 34« N. id very cold I penetrating. I dry J even- Bphere dry. ht. L 320 30' N. ly rain. coid. y ra#. raw. ' iver i clear vte- I / ' .