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TO WHICH ARE ADDED, Biographical Notices and Anecdotes of some of the leading Cha- racters in the United States; and of those who have, at va- rious Periods, borne a conspicuous Part in the P(jliticb of that Country. BY JOHN LAMBERT. IN THREE VOLl MES. fFJTH ENGRA V JNGS, VOL. L LONDON: PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, , BRIDGE-STKEET, BLACKFRIAKS. 1810. T.Gillet, Printer, Crown- court, Fleet-strccl. n , I .■ - ■ s I ■*, i > I '} \\ > ■ > 1 ■; i ^ i il\i L 1 1 I, I il C O N T E N T S VOL. I. Iktroduction Page xiii CHAP. I. Passage to the Grand Bank. Fine Weather. Trepassc Bay. Newfoundland. Description ot that Island. Dearness of Provisions. Prolific Women. Gale of Wind. Alarming Night. Captain Cook's Charts. Dreadful Shipwreck. Uncertaintyof a Sailor's Life. The Protecting Power of a Supreme Being. Magdalen Islands. Admiral Str Isaac Coffin. Passage through the Gulf. Island of Anticosti. Father Point. Facetious Pilot. Confession of the Ladies. Cannot keep a Secret. Story of the Priest and the Bible. Arrival at Quebec. Beautiful appearance of that City and the surrounding Country. , » - . i .rv ! ^ CHAP. II. Hire of Houses at Quebec. Roofs. Chimney-sweepers. Narrow Streets of the Lower Town. Cape Diamond, Dreadful Accidents. Mountain-Street. Steep Ascent. Breakneck Stairs. Singular Escape of a Boy. Canadian Stores. Taverns. Union Hotel. Irish Landlord. General Montgomery's Attack on Quebec. Sudden Defeat and Death. Application to the Canadian Government for his Bones. General Arnold. Intendant's Palace, - - 14 a 2 IV CONTENTS. C II A P. III. Origin of the Name of Quebec. Its strons; natural Situation and Advantages. Capability of Defence in case of War with th(! United States. Origin of the War between the Irocjuois and Algonquins. Impolitic Conduct of Champliiin. Fortifications of Quebec. Expedition of Sir William Phipps. New Improvements. Mattello Towers. Wolfe's Cove. Eattle of the Plains of ALraham. Dcatli of General Wolfe. Ingratitude of his Countrymen in Canada, His Statue in St. Joliu's-street. Garrison Troops. Colontl Glasgow Commandant. Inspecting Field Officers of the Canadian Militia - - . _ . Page 32 C H A P. IV. Chateau St. Louis. Improvements. Public Buildings of the Upper Town. Cuurt House. English Cathedral. Fire at the Monastery of Franciscan Friars. College of Jesuits, Mode of Livir.g of the Jesuits. Canadian Proverb. Inde- fatigable I'er.^everance. Genius and Ability. Anecdote of a German Jesuit. Jean Joseph Casot, the last of the Cana- dian Jesuits, Hotel Dieu. Seminary. Remarkable Anec- dote of a Youn^ Ladv, Convent of St. Ursule. General Ho.'piial. U>cful Avocations of the Nuns. Benefit of Monastic Institutions in Canada. Begging Friars. Roman Catholic Clergy SO CHAP. V. Upper Town of Quebec. New Buildings. Butcher's Market. Dangereus Edifice. Excellent Object for a Besieging Army. Magiaterial EoUy aiui Extiavagance. Shew of Meat the Day after Good Frit'.iy. Feasting after Lent. Price of Provisions. Frozen Pnni -ions kept for live Monihs. Ex- travaga-it Price of E ..ropeaa Goods. Tommy Cods. Fish. Wild Pigeons. A Market Scene. Poor Mulrooney. The ^ i CONTENTS. Ilnbitant Outwitted. Stinkincj Cheese an Epicurean Deli- cacy. Hiitter iVoni Green Island. Frozen Milk. Miiple Sugar. Origin ot" tlaling Sweet Things with Meat. Pnco of Articles at Market. Canadian Currency Page O'S CHAP. VI. Curious Jargon in the Market Place. Bon Tabac. An Anec- o dote of an Irishman and a Habitant. Moccasins. Swamp Boots. Strawberries. Raspberries. Fruit brought to Market, Vegetables. Potatoes formerly looked upon as poisonous by the French. Rows of Cabbages and Onions. Uread. Price regulated by the Magistrates. Large Ex- portation of Wheat. Colonel Caldwell, Breweries esta- blished at Quebec. Hop Plantation at Sillery, Settlement of the Algonquins. Emily Montague. Wines Drank in Canada, Rum. Sugars. Quantity of Tea received from the United States. Tobacco. Salt. Trades and Profes- sions -,--_-_- 91 CHAP. VII. ri ^;i liM } l\ Climate of Lower Canada. Severity of the Cold. Drifting of the Snow in the Streets up to the Garret Windows. Frozen Channel, Passage over ihe Broken Masses o*' Ice. Canoes. Noise of the Floating Ice. Travellino; in " :jr. Warm Clothing. Frost-bitten Cheeks. Clear Sk/. Supposed alteration in the Climate. Journals of the Weather in 1745 and I807. Canadian Exaggeration. Use of Stoves. Open Fire-places. Observations upon the Change of Climate. Longevity in Canada. Breaking up of the Ice. Arrival of the First Vessel. Progress of Vegetation. Wet Months. Thunder and Lightning. Severe Storm at Quebec. State of the Thermometer. Plagues of Canada. Scorching Sum- mers. Agreeable Autumns - - - - 119 t] 1 .1 I i fl: ' 1 ! ■ 1^' 't' I , ; I f I t 1 1 VI CONTEMTl. C H A 1». VJII. Soil of Lower Canada. Meadows. Cultivated Lands. Modft of Farming. Few Orchards. Indian Corn. Tobacco. Culinary Roots. Seigniory of Gtondine.'j. Bar* en Soil. Price of Land. Gradual Improvement. Want of Enter- prize among the Canadians. Formed themselves on tlio Model of their Forefathers. View of the Shores of the St . Lawrence. Extensive Chain of Settlements. Beautiful Scene, Settlement at Stoneham Township. Clearing of Land. Canadian Cattle. The first Horse seen in Canada. Poultry American Horse Dealers. Rough Treatment of Canadian Horses - - Page 1^3 CHAP. IX. Population of Lower Canada. Different Statements reconciled, Ct nsus of the Province. Present number of Inhabitt>nts. Statistical Statement for I SOS. Irish and Scotch Emigrants. French Settlers. Acadians. Character of the French Habi* tans, or Countrymen. Description of their Houses. Cleanly Maxims. Picture of the Interior of a Habitant House. Mode of Living among the Canadian Peasantry. Anecdote of a Dish of Tea. Pernicious Etfects of Rum. Fracas in the Market Place. Drunkenness of the Market People. Portrait of the Habitaus. Old-fashioned Dress of the Women. Resources of the Habitans - - 145 V CHAP. X. Handsome Children. Pernicious Effects of the Stove. Man- ners of the Habitans. Modesty. Genius. General Defi- ciency of Education. Necessity for ditiusing a Knowledge of the English Language more generally throughout the Pro- vince. Marriages. Calashes. Berlins. Carioles. Co- vered Carioles. Laws of the Road. Civility of the Habi- tans. Partiality to Dancing and Feasting on certain Day^. II ■-•.iC*' "• .4' CONTENTI. Tli VV.nityofa youn?j Ftllow in painting his Clicckji. Super- stition of an Old Lady. Anecdote of the Holy Water* Corrupt Frcndi spoken in Canada. Observatiuus upon thu Habitans - Page 166 CHAP. XI. Government of Lower Cannda. Governor. Executive and Legislative Councils. Hijusc of Assembly. Provincial Par- liament. Canadian Orators. Oath of a Member. De- bates. Ignorant Members. Anecdote of a Legislator. Laws of Lower Canada. Courts of Law. English and French Laws. The rights of Seigniors. Feudal Tenuresj. Coutume de Paris. Fiefs. Succession to Estates. Divi- sion of Property. Wife's Dower. Community of Pro- perty by Marriage. Timely Interference of a Quarter Cask of Madeira, and a Piece of Russia Slieeting, in the Purchase of a House. Arrests. Canadian liawyers. Anecdote of n Governor. Evil Consequences of being at Law. Tedious Laws. Chief Justice Alcock. Attorney-General. Re- ceipts and Expenses of the Government. Forges of St, Maurice, 'I'axes, Turnpikes - - J8i CHAP. XIL Commerce of Lower Canada. Settlement of the French in the Country. Situation of the Colony in 1/65. Improper Conduct of the British Traders, Dissatisfaction of the Ca- nadian Noblesse and Peasantry. General Murray's Letter to the Lords of the Council. Table of Imports and Exports of Canada, from 1754 to I8O7. Progressive Increase of Commerce. Wheat, Exports of 1808. Residence of the Governor-general, necessary for the Welfare of the Colony. Fur Trade, Mr. M'Tavish. North- West Company. Mi- chillimakinak Company. Outrage committed by the Ame- ricans on Lake Ontario - - - 21§ i »i Ulii! f.: 1; Hi ,< t, t .1 .'ii^ « i I! iu.t ( vHi roNTENTI CM A?. XIII. ' t! I T'.\iU» botwcPM Caii.ul'i and the (Tnitcd St.ilM. Rnilington Miinoii.il lo {'nn'j;icss. Atncrican Merclianls si'tiling at IVloiiti'Ml. Iiitirest for Money not allowod to Catliolics in Canada. Halts ot" Timber, Productions of IJpjx'r Canada. Prosperity of that Province. Necessity ot" having good Boads. Manutactures. Iron-works al Three Rivers and Bati.scan. Ship-building. Reduction of the Imports of F/Ughsh and East India manufnctured Goods. Hcdance of Trade in favour of the United States. Smugglers. Evasion of the Embargo Laws. Verniontese in a Stale of Jnsurrec- tio.n. Inferior Commodities preferred by t!u; C.iii.idians. Diversity of Opinion rpspecling the ebiablishing a Bank in Lower Canada. Iniports nnd Exports of IR07 and 1808. Duties payable on imported Goods. Po.st-Office Regula- tioHa. Roads and Distances^ Sac. - - Page 24'2 C IT A P. XIV. Society of the Towns in Lower Canada, Different Classes of Society. Education. Investigation of the Causes of mental Disability, Defects < f I^ducation of the original Settlers. Degrading Policy of the French Government. State of the Pc(5ple before liie Conquest. Levity of the Canadians. Ex- travagance and Dis:,ipation. Ignorance of the British Set- tlers. Change of Manners after the Conquest. The Ledger and Waste Book preferred to splendid Entertainments. Rising Importance of the British Merchants. Degradation of the French Noblesse. Female Boarding Schools. Board- ing-school Misses. Manners of the French Canadian La- dies in 1749, and in 1808, Anecdote of Mademoiselle . *- .. . Morals of the Canadian Society. Female Servants. , Scandal. North-west Merchants. - - 27O ■:' 1I (-nNTKNT]. II C1IA1». XV. AmiKCMncnts ami Divorsiuiis. Quebec Assembly. I'al ile Socit'K'. Privnte Tea :mJ C:ar(i Parties. Il.mts nt tlu; CIu- tcau. The TluMtre, Present State of CaividiatJ Theatricals. Drunken Performers. Arrival of a Company from IJuston. Concerts. Freemasons' Lodges. The Duke of Kctit. ]!a- rons' Club. Gr.md Knterlainment on tlic Installation of tin* Knights. Society of Rousticouche. (ianadian Hond-street. J'llliards. Carioling. Dress of the L idles and GentlemiMi. Dllicers of the Army in Tippets. Mutations of Fashion, lletrospoct of jJrilish Fashions. Pyramidal Head-drosses. Old and New Fashljns compared. Lon^-toed Shoes, pro- hibited under pain of cursinf the Presents. Indian Chief. Sagacity of the Indians. W - warns. Bullock's Head. Night Scene. Indian Dance. Pf :y Squaws. Distribution of Rum. Passage across the Rive at Night. Attempts to civilize the Indians. Travels ir he Interior. Voyage up the Missouri. Anecdote of a Cre^.. Indian Population. Presents. Civilization. Degenerated State of the Indians. Wretchcti Appearance. Indian Prophet ----- 363 CHAP. XIX. Face of Lower Canada. Mountain of Quebec. Black Lime Slate. Minerals. Mineral Springs. Rock Stones. Re- markable Earthquake of l663. Particulars translated from the French Jesuits' Journal. Dreadful Night, Sickness and V/iddiiiess of the Head. Wreck of Nature. Forests il i! f COSTESCJ. XX overturned. Springs clicked up. Rivers Lo^t. Violent Shocks. Mountains Swallowed up. General Devastation. New Lakes and Islands. Three extraordinary Circum- stances. Wonderful IVesorvarion. Kxtraord-.u^iry FrotectiiJu ot'Divine Provideuoc. Natural Curio.siiics. Falls ot'Sagucnay, Montmorency, and Cliaudiere. An Excursion up the River. Through the Woods, Mt-Ianc'ioly Accident. Anecdote of two Young, Ladies. Arrival at the Falls of Chaudiere. The Cataract. Return to Quebec. Rapids of Richlieu. Cas- cades. Rapids of the Cedars - . - Page 40-t CHAP. XX. Canadian Animals. Anecdote of a Young Man. Animals of the Forest. Amphibious Animals. Canadian Hare. Birds. Turkey. Partridge. Fish. Reptiles. Snakes. Bull Frog. Excellent Fricasee of a Bull Frog. Lizards. Terrebins. Insects. Locusts. Extraordinary Devastation. Musquitos. Bees. The Ephemera, or Day Fly. Fire Fly. Phospho- rous Light which it emits resembles distant Stars, or Sparks of Fire. Delicate Formation. Noxious Insects - 432 C H A P. XXI. Forest Trees. Shrubs. Plants. Pine Trees. Clearing of Lands. Singular Adventure of Miss Van C. American Oak. Birch Tree. Maple Tree. Cedar. Ginseng. Capi- laire. Sumach. Poisonous Sumach. Herb i la Puce. Gold Flies. Cotton Plant, or Cotonnier, yields Sugar re- sembling Honey. Onion Tree. Sweet Garlic. Wild Tur- nip. Tripe de Rochers. Indian Tea. Aromatic Grass. Cran- berry. Juniper Tree. Sun Flowers. Oil extracted from the Seed, equal to Florence Oil - - . 44Q. CHAP. XXII. Hemp and Flax, Natives of Canada, little cultivated. Proiir- abl« Article. Wavering Conduct of the Northern Powers. i! ill I' '1 III m 1 1 I ' L * 1 1 Ml! 1 X!l CONtENTS. I M Attempts to raise Hemp in Canada and the East Indies. Alleged Reasons of their Failure. Expenditure of immense Sums of Money. Transactions of the Society of Arts. Board of Trade. Unsuccessful Attempts. Proposition to the Lords of the Council. Agreement. Certificate of the Merchants. Embarkation. Arrival at Quebec. Unforeseen Difficulties. Great Losses. Bad Seed. Application to the Governor General. Causes which have prevented tho Culture of Hemp in Canada. Shameful Treatment. Scruples of the Clergy removed. Existence of a S xret Party. Extra- ordinary Circumstance. Kiln-dried Seed. Dr. Taylor, Naval Stores. Culture of Hemp in Canada, a National Con- cern. Experiments of the Earl of Shannon Page 4S3 it:^ /* (ij ^^n^,::.' INTRODUCTION. *' What a large volume of adventures may be grasped within this little span of life, by him who interests his heart in every thing ; and who, having eyes to see what time and chance are perpetually holding out to hiu), as he journeyeth on his way, misses nothing he can fairly lay his hands on," Sterne. I HAD long enfertained a desire to visit the American continent, and to explore those parts which have heen rendered interesting by the glories of a Wolfe and a Washington. In the one I had to see the eflbct of a fore/^gw govern- ment upon the minds and manners of a people widely differing from ourselves. And in the other, the effect of a 7iew government upon (hose who a few years ago were British subjects^ but who now hold a distinguished rank in the scale of independent nations. In short, to see the New Woi'ld, and to tread on that ground which little more than three centuries before was unknown^ was an object which I ardently longed to ac- complish. It is possible, however, that my wishes might have remained ungratified, had not ! t i ' A I I'll 4' I' t, {'i. hi litil iiii k «! XIV INTRODtJCTIOM. '1 »i "' t, I r i,.. > I I \\ Vi; i f I a fortunate opportiiniry prfsentcd itself, in the appointmrnt of a relalion of miu^^ bj the Board of Trad C;, to undertake the culture of hemp in Canada. I cheerfullv accepted the otfei to ac- company him, ft)r two reasons: first, because it enabled me to gratify my desire of visiting Ame- rica ; and srcoiully, because it opened a fair pros- pect of pci forming a most essential service to the country, viz. the rendering Great Britain in- dependent of the northern powers, for her sup- plies of iitnip. \Vi(h these views 1 prepared to quit England ; while my fond hopes cheer«d me with the prospect of one day returning in the possession of moderate wealth, and the conscious- ness of having acquired it in the attainment of a great national object. I well knew, that unless we succeeded in the latter, we could not expect to obtain the former, and a desire for the one ne- cessarily operated as a stimulus to the other. No trouble, no privations, did I think too great in such an lionourable pursuit ; and I shall perjiaps gain but little credit for saying, that I valued the emoluments that would arise from our succesa less than the accomplishment of such an impor- tant undertaking : one which had baffled the ex- ertions of the British government for upwards of t-iijcnty year^ ; and in which they had fruitlessly expended an immense sum of money. I had also the satisfaction of knowing, that I was not about to embark in any wild and visionary INTRODUCTION. XT sflitnie, reared upon tlie quuksaiul of an livpo- tliesis ; hut that the whole was the rt'.iilt of well- triiid, su' individuals. The road appeared ahead j marked out for us, and we had only to foHow in the track, to accomplish the desired ohject. No sooner, however, did we set foot in Canada, than all our flattering- prospects immediately va- nished. Difficulties and disasters followed each other in rapid succession, and nothing- was to he seen in perspective, but the destruction of all our hopes and expectations. Instead of receiving his hinds, being paid his expenses, and otherwise assisted by the Canadian government, as express- ed in his agreement with the Board of Trade, my reliiiion was compelled to dance attendance at the executive council-room for upwards of Jive months before he received a portion of either ; bv wliich time the farmers and mechanics, on whom he principally depended for the success of hisunderfcaking, were all corrupted by the vicious example of the lower order of Europeans at Que- bec ; and to a man were either enticed into the service of others, or obliged to be discharged for their idle and iosclent behaviour. The loss of property which he also sustained by this de- sertion of liis people, and the expense of living so many months in a city, presented considerable impediments to the progress of his undertaking- He was, neverthelcsSj determined to encounter ^^..-V*-.^^ INTRODUCTION*. X\ll every (Ufficulty, in order to fulfil liis agreement with the Board of Trade, and at a very heavy expense procured the best farmers and artizans he eould find in the country ; after which he com- menced his operations. Obstacles, however, still continued to present themselves; and in spite of all his exertions, have hitherto retarded the suc- cess of liis undertaking;. Though he has thus for the present failed in accomplishing those ends for which he has sacrificed ko much of his time and property, yet he perseveres, in the hope of soon receiving that aid from government, to which be is entitled ; but which has hitherto been admi' nistered to him with a very sparing hand. le As for myself, I have resigned those pleasing di'«ams, which I once pictured to my imagination^ and am content to hope for that, which, if it suc- ceeds, will at least benefit my country. In the course of this work I have devoted a chapter to a cursory view of the attempts that have been made for the last twenty years, to introduce the culture of hemp into Canada, and I have taken the op- portunity to narrate the proceedings (yf my rela- tion, from the period of his giving in his plans to the Board of Trade, to the time of my leaving that country. In the course of that narrative, I have mentioned some extraordinary circumstances that occurred soon after our arrival, to which the failure of our eiforts may be chiefly ascribed ; and VOL. I. b m ■^i^\ I i i f •! r: it. I ' ••• I c if XVIll INTRODUCTION. wliicli :iIsos(MMnt()Iiav(! formrda part of lliosc secret i)!p.s/at'!i's wliicli Iiavo impeded ev« ry former at- ((•mpt of the j2;overmnont to cultivate hemp in From the porsonal ronsidcMatioiis vvhicli it iii- VDlvtvl wifh ^j^rviii rci^^xvd to my relation, I at first Il'lt iurliru'd to suppress the aeeoiuit of ills under- taking' alt>)jj;ethi'r ; hnt when I reflected liow niueh the country was interested in his exertions, thoiijjjh hut those of a privatiMndividnal, and how Ciij^erly ev«u y one looked towards the accomplish- ment of that, which would relieve us from our de- pendence upon the liaUie powers, for the most cssendal support of our navy and mercantile mu- rine, r must confess If \ hi ¥ it XX INTRODUCTION. jority of the people were totally diflcicnt from those whom I had been accustomed to sec ; their manners, customs, hinguauje, and religion, were all new to me; and I found myself at once upon a strange soil, and among a foreign people. After residing a twclvenioiitli in Canada, I visited the United Stales, a country, whose real state and condition is alnioiit as little known in England, as thai, of Canada ; and tlie manners and disposition of whose iithahitants, are seldom viewed but through the false medium of popular prejudice. Whatever truth there may have been in the accounts given of the United States by for- mer writers, they present at this day, but imper- fect or distorted pictures of the country and its inhabitants. Those who have not seen the United States for the last twenty years, would be asto- nished at the alteration that has taken place. No country, perhaps, ever increased in population and wealth, or rose into importance among other na- tions, more rapidly than the United States. Within the space of thirty years they have emerged from the obscurity of colonics, into the Tank of independent states ; governed by a con- stitution altogether novel in the present times,, but which, whatever defects it may contain, has proved the source of all their prosperity. The people of England are too apt to hold the cha- mtcter of the Americans in trifling estimation ; ■^^ -Jt-. .-*._ * INTRODUCTION. IXI but when it is V.nown, that their country h fast approaching to importance, that their imports and exports already amount to one half oi' those of Great Britain, while their annual expenditure is not a twentieth, and their national debt not a. for- tieth part of our's, we cannot avoid giving* them our meed of admiration, whatever jealousy might suggest to the contrary. It is to be hoped that the two nations will no longer give way to blind and acrimonious prejudices against each other, but endeavour to cultivate the blessings of peace, instead of the horrors of war. I certainly felt a lively interest in visiting the United States, with which I was but imperfectly acquainted from written accounts. My eyes and ears were open to every thing I saw or heard^ and though I met with a people whose manners and customs differed but little from those of my own country, yet there was a novelty in many things which arrested my attention, and was uot always unworthy of notice. The result of my labours I now lay before the public, and I trust that their liberality and can- dour, will make allowances for the errors ^nd de- ficiencies of a first attempt. If I have been too prolix in some things, it has been occasioned by a desire to impart all the information which I considered useful or intei'esting, and by looking ;v J' '•n^ 1 T II >l; " j'i'j! 'h ,iti 'I' li-\ ■■\ I. . ; I xxit INTRODUCTION. upon a variety of sulyocts, now to me, witli moro intcre«it perhaps than thoy really deserved. If I may have said but little upon other suhjerts, it is because much has been Ixjfore said oflheni, and I wished only to toutli niost upon such tliinp^s as were possessed of the j^roatest (le::,re(' of novelty or importaiue; not but that it is a dilUciilt task to speak only of what others have omitted ; for, as Dr. Johnson observes " to oblige the most fertile genius to say only what is iicxi\ would be to contract his volumes to a very few pages." In the course of my tour through Lower Cana- da, and part of the United States, my object has been to describe the people as I found them ; to remove the veil of unjust prejudice, and the gloss of flattery. If in «ome places it may be sup- posed that I have spoken with too much free- dom, I can only say, that it is the freedom of truth ; yet, v/herc truth has obliged me to speak freely, I have done it only from a consciousness of its being of public utility, and not from a de- sire to hurt the feelings of any individual. In expressing my opinion of such things as offered tbemselves to my notice, I hope that I shall not be accused of presumption by those who may difi'er fiom me : we arc all anxious to learn the thoughts of each other^ and a man writes to little piirpoiic who is afraid of speaking his real senti- ments. A traveller who visits foreign nations 11^ INTUODUCTION. XXlll should brinp,' liomc thai knnwlodi^c and informa- tion which iiJd, hv of service to liis own coun- try ; snch as ni.iv suf^/'v sonic want, or niiti|2^atc sonic evil : hut he would lii j>erforin the duty iii- cnmbent upon (um, were lie servilely to Hatter the erroPH and prejudices, which lir should en- deavour to correct. Amidst the variety of manners and dispositions which distinguish the natives of every country, a stranger meets with characters of all descrip- tions, and often of the most contradictory nature. Hence, even his own opinions are, at times, ren- dered almost irreconcileablc ; and he himself is at a loss how to judge of the people whom he wishes to describe. In most countries there are certain traits and peculiarities in the natives^ which may, in some measure, form what is called a national character ; yet to designate a people thus indiscriminati^ly, is as erroneous in judg- ment, as to sum up the total of a man's disposi- tion from particular lineaments of his counte- nance. If, therefore, opposite qualities are found, and seemingly contradictory characters displayed, in the people whom I have attempted to deli- neate, they are such as characferize human nature more or less : for perfection is unattainable in this life; and virtue may predominate where vice exists. I' li i.t ' \i ^li 'Hi 'SI t '■ f n til ■.'ii ■•'III ■ >'ifi XXIV INTRODUCTIO!?. Upoi^ the same principle, cTery countrjr has i^s advantages and defects, and whether it be the frozen dcpcrts of the Eskimaux, or the luxurious plains of the Italian, each prefers that country which gave him birth. Hence, while I acknow- ledged and admired the east/ independence and happiness of the Canadians, the rising prosperity and freedom of the Americans, I could not look back on the country I had left, without senti- ments of greater veneration and attachment, than any I had before felt. I compared the advan- tages and defects which each country possessed, and the result was decidedly in favour of my ©wn. W..■ NEWFOUNDLAND. '*:; (,:• 1,7 1' :[1 -1 f- f / • I I f ■ ; r: / 1':' ai'o madcj but of an indifferent quality. St. John's is tlie capital town of the island;, and the place whcic alj the fish eauj^ht on the Banks is dried^ anil piLlicd lip for Europe. The streets are nar- row and 'tirty, the buildings low and inelegant. Every other kind of provision, but fish, is scarce and dear. The town is supplied with poultiy^, meat, ai»d vegclublcs, bytiie Canadians and Ame- ricans, vvho -die sur(3 to find a good market for their productions. A turkey often sells for a guinea; and a leg of mutton for fifteen shillings. In sliort, the situation of the inhabitants at St. ' John's, £cenis very much to resemble that of the peo])le of St. Helena; and were it not for the abundant supply of fish, \\hich is procured at bofh those places, their fare would be extremely s( aiity. At St. Helena, the inhabitants are al- iovN f' fresh meat only four times a year ; and no )v. m is permitted to kill a sheep or an ox of his ( V t>, without an order from the Governor. The I. habitants of Nevvfoundiaud are robust and 1 ealthy, and though enveloped the greatest part of the year in the Came vapours of the Grand Biuik, yet possess th'.^ y^^h'> I'^^^^b' countenance of the English ; which thus seems to be con- genial with a foa'gy atmosphere. The v* oniea are said to be extremely prolilL: ; but as Sterne says,' There is nothing wondeiTiii In \hiu,iiU\:e it 'ii-- m !S( GALE OF WIND. [)hn'9 place Iried, ; nar- igant. scarce ultry, Aine- ;ct for lor a llings. at St. of the or the ned at remely are inl- and no of his The st and 1st part iGra no ] |c nance }e con- btcrne iU :e it -S I mav diet/ ; be accounted for in the principles of their The bleak and rngged shores of Newfoundland impress their beholders with no favourable opi- nion of the country; wliilethe boldness of t!ie roast, and the raging of the ocean, make them tremble for their safety. The niglit we passed bevwceii Cape Ray, and the island of St. Paul, was preg- nant wiih danger and alarm. It blew a gale of wind, and such was the darkness of the night, that even if the vessel had been driven ashore, I question whether we should have seen the land. Four days had elapsed since our di parture from Trepasse Bay, during which time n.> observation could be taken, in coiisequcnce of the fogs and hazy weather that prevail upon the Small Banks, over which we had been sailing. By tlie Caphiiii's reckoning, we were within a few miles of Cape Ray, and though we had every reason to be satis- fied witii its correctness, yet none on board c«>uld easily divest themselves of their apprehensions. We were going at the rate of tw i 1 1 ^. li ;ii :'i •I U i 10 rATlIEtt POINT. mark. Whales, porpoises, and seals, were all ih'd wc saw of Ihe aquatic tribe; and of the leathered race we saw only wild p;eese, ducks, and <^tills. We had hut a distant view of the island ofAnticosli, which separates the mouth of the river St Lawrence into two channels, as wc kept close over to the shores of Gaspc, and Cape Rosieres, alono; whicli we coasted for four davs, until we arrived off Cape Chat. The island of Anticosti is of very considerable size, being one hundred and twenty miles long, and thirty broad. The French formerly had a settlement on this island, but at present it is uninhabited; nor cm it ever become of much importance, as it does not possess a single liarboi^r where a vessel can ride in safety. The wood which grows upon it is small, and the soil is reckoned unfruitful ; which, added to the severity of the winter, will ever prove serious obstacles to its colonization. On the ^;8rd October we took a pilot on board oft' Father Point, about 200 miles below Quebec, this plac'fi is inhabited chiefly by pilots, who, by a reguloAion of the Trinity House at Quebec, arc restricf,ed from going farther down the river to ^oi ships : formerly they were in the habit of cruizing as far as Chaleur Bay; but, to prevent an ene',ny taking advantage of them, they were not allowed to board vessels below Father Point, I lidecd they are not absolutely wanted before, as I 4 FACETIOUS PILOT. 11 the navigation is very clear and open to that place. We had a very good view of this little settlement, which is extremely pretty : and the white cottages of the Canadians scattered over tiie cleared land, which appeared neatly fenced in, had a very pleasing effect, amidst such a wild and dreary scene as the surrounding country presented, of trackless forests, and gloomy moun- tains. Our pilot, Louis Le Clair, was an old French Canadian, possessed, like the rest of liis country- men, of a tolerable opinion of himself; yet was a good-humoured, friendly ft'llow. It was not long before we found that his predilection for the clergy was not excessive, lie entertained us with many of his whimsical opinions, and de- clared, that for his own part, he never went to confession, though he allowed his wife and daughters to go. "Women," says he, can never be happy until they let out their secrets, and on that account it is necessary tlicy should have a confessor ; I therefore pay him his fees, which is only justice : but for myrseif 1 consider it all as a mere farce ; and it must be so, since the women say that they only tell the priesis a part, and conceal the rest." — A few years ago the pilot picked up an English Bible, which had been thrown ashore from the wreck of a shi[): as he understood the language, he read it through. h ' I i i!-* .?.;• ( Ill J! I I i! t hi: I V'(. i i 12 PRIEST AND THE IIinLF:. and it opened his ryes so much, ihiil lie could not forbear, soon after, dtspntiiio- with liis cure upon certain points of reli*»;i.\!, 7'lie latter was much surpri/ed to f«nd him so knowing;, and inquired liow he had olilained iiisiniorinat on, unoii wliich the old man shewed him th(; Bible. The priest declared it was not a fit b(>ok for him in read, and desired ho would i»:ive i( into his charge ; this the pilot refused, and the cure threiileiied to write to the bisliop and have him excommuiiicated as a heretic: but findina^ that neither threats, nor in- treaties, had any effect, he was necessitated to re- quest that he would keep it to himself, and not let any of his uelglibours know that he had such a book. The old pilot declared, that he consi- dered the findini;; of that Bible the happiest event of his life, in consequence of the couifort and consolation which he derived from perusing* it. Our passar'»j;'etin^' rock, covered wilh honscs, churches, and warehouses, ofstone, risinj^ «;Tadu- ally one above another in tlie form of an aniphi- Iheatre : above these are the glittering' spires of the cathedrals, convents, and other religious bnildini^s, >vhose refulgence dazzles the eye; >vhilc below is seen a crowd of shipping, whose masts sink into insignilicance against the moun- tain which towers above them. On the left is Point Levi, adorned with its little cluster of houses, and neat church, which, as the vessel moves along, emerges gradually out of a thick wood. To the right, is the fruitful island of Orleans, with its neat dwellings, cultivated slopes, high grounds, and its yet uncultivated forests. Beyond, is the majestic chasm of Mont- morency, and its snow white falls, seen in an opening upon the elevated shores of Beauport, which rise in the form of terraces, until they reach the huge and lofty mountains that form the back ground, and extend far beyond the ken of mortal \ision. It was the most beautiful combination of scenery I had ever beheld ; and the vessel had come to an anchor off the town, before I quitted the contemplation of such a variety of charming objects. \4 I! ;?',' ^'■: 1^ HIRE OF HOUSES AT QUEBEC. I f ^ t ft "1 Hi ^|i- ,f* CHAP. 11. ///7'£j of Houses at Quebec — Roofs — Chimnei/^ sweepers — Nay^roxv Streets of the Loxver Toxvn — (*! ape Diamond — Dreadful Accidents — Mouu" tain-street — Steep ascent — Breakneck Stairs — Singular Escape of a Boy — Canadian Stores — Taverns — Union Hotel — Irish Landlord — Ge- neral Montgomery's Attack on Quebec — Sudden Defeat and Death — Aj)plication to the Canadian Government for his Bones — General Arnold'--' IntendanVs Palace. The season of tbe year in which we arrived, was by no means favorable for procuring good lodgings at Quebec. Houses are seldom to be ob- tained except in the month of May, when the term for which they are taken expires ; besides whichjthe House of Assembly was to meet shortly, and the influx of its members, from dift'erent parts of the country, rendered it very difficult to pro- cure eitlier a house, or apartment. We were therefore oblic-ed to be contented with a verv in- different house in Chanvplain- street^ one of the most disagreeable parts of the Lower Town. Tii« CIUMNRY-SWEEPERS. n M v'cd^ 9 ood ob- thc i ,1 ides 1 •tly. arts 1 jro- t-ere i in- lost 1 1 building itself bad nothing to recommend it to our favor, and the situation was extremely re- pulsive. It was some consolation, however, to have Mr. Mure, one of the most distinguished merchants in Quebec, as our next door neigh- bour; the house we occupied belonged to that gentleman, who also owned an extensive wharf and range of large store-houses adjoining. The houses in Quebec are, with few exceptions, built of stone ; the roofs of the better sort are generally covered with sheets of iron, or tin, and those of an inferior description with clap-boards. Shingles have been prohibited ; though many old buildings have them. In case of fire, the burning shingles, scattered about by the wind, spread the destructive flames to a great extent ; it was the danger apprehended on this account, that caused the provincial parliament to prohibit, in future, the covering of houses with them ; but the boarded roofs which are at ^/resent chiefly in use, are equally dangerous in catching fire, though perhaps not so likely to communicate it to dis- tant parts of the town. On the roofs of the houses, two or thi*ee ladders are placed near the garret windows, for the purpose of assisting the chimney-sweepers to get on the rool^ and clea^i the chimneys. Boys do not go up as in England, but two men perform the work with a bundle of twigs, or furze, tied to a rope, whifch they pull up !|^i h li; Ml :3ll Pii I I : ' :l 10 NARROW STREETS OF THE LOWEIl TOWN, ,1^? P * and down till the chimney is sufficiently clean ; one man j^oes upon the roof, and the other re- mains hclow : a similar mode is practised in Scot- land. The streets of the Lower Town, with the ex- ception of two or three in the vicinity of the market-placcj are scarcely deserving of that ap- pellation ; they are rugged^ narrow, and irregu- lar, and can be compared only to the dirtiest lanes of London. St. Peter's-street is the best paved^ and widest of the Lower Town : it contains several good substantial houses, which are chiefly occu- pied by the principal merchants and traders. It has a very gloomy appearance, yet the attention of foot passengers is constantly kept alive, by the continual noise and bustle of the carters, whose \ehiclcs are drawn up on one side of the street, near the market place, for the purpose of being hired ; carts are therefore continually on the move along this street ; and the adjoining wharfs af- ford them constant occupation in the summer season, during which period this place is a com- plete Thames -street. The Lower Town is built along the b:ise of the mountain by the water side, extendiii.?; on the south as far as L'A'nce des Mercs, and to the north as far as the suburbs of St. Roc{u:e,a length of nearly two miles. That part whicli com- prizes the market place, St Peter's-street, and the '^^■'^^ f ;.-«■' ; '-0 iti ■•""■'t'.-;'^ i'^ vC "."*•-; ■■ait" .s-'ii ;. V i. ' '! !l "3i h m ^ ■K^'^ k K ■» ^ ^^^^^^^^H l^^^^>'<^'^ ; -1 ' n:iij(!: ' 'a^t^-^.JfS.^^ ,, CAPE CIAMOND. 17 .^ \ V V * > ^ wharfs adjacent which ]cxtend a considerable way into the river, is the widest part of the Lower Town, and the chief seat of commerce. The ex- tremities are very little more than narrow lanes, winding round the foot of the stupendous rock, upon the summit of which, the Upper Town is situated. The highest part of this rock is on the south towards L'ance des Meres, and is called Cape Diamond, in consequence of the con- fiiderablc number cf transparent quartz crystals resembling diamonds, being found between the fissures, and cracks of the black lime slate, of which the rock consists. Cape Diamond is stated by ?\Ir. Weld, in his Travels, to be u p wards of one thousand feet above the level of the river; this account is, however, extremely erroneous ; its utmost height being only three hundred and fifty feet perpendicular, which an oflicer of the engineers informed me was the actual measurement. From this altitude it subsides, towards the northern extremity, into an height of little more than two hundred and fifty feet. The aspect of this immense body of rock is steep, and rugged ; in several places it projects in a very dangerous manner over the houses of the lower town, and has occasioned many serious accidents. In the winter time tlie fissures and cavities of the rock are tilled up with snow, which nc it ffcezes into ice, expands ba- VOL. I. c Ml ■n \. i 18 DREADFUL ACCIDENTI. yond Its usual bounds, and splits many of the pro- jecting parts into fragments; these are loosened by the warm sun of March and Aprils and often precipitated upon the unwary passenger below. While I remained at Quebec in the spring of 1807, one man was killed upon the spot, and several others had their arms, legs, or thighs broken by these loose fragments. It has long been a cause o f general complaint, that the rock has not been shaped so as to prevent such serious accidents. It is hardly possible at present, to walk in certain parts of the Lower Town in safety during the thaw which takes place in the spring. Along the end of Sault au PJatelot- street, Canotrie, and some parts of Champlain- street, the houses are built within a few feet of the rock ; leaving barely room enough for a cart to pass. The present Governor General has be- gun to make considerable improvements in va- rious parts of the tovv n,the fortification and public buildings; it is therefore to be hoped that ho will not neglect such an importani object for the public welfare, as that which I have mentioned. The heavy sameness which pervades all the houses in Quebec, is seldom relieved by any beauty, or elegance in the public buildings. The Lower Town is, in this respect, partici^lnrly de- ficient. It contains but one small church, of mean appearance situated in the market place.. MOUNTAIN-STREET. Id and belonging to the Catholics : it is called the church of Notre Dame, and was founded in con- sequence of a vow made during the siege of Quebec, in 1690, and dedicated to " Our Lady of Victory." The street leading to the upper town, called Mountain street, winds in a serpentine direction from the marketplace, up the hill; passes through Prescot gate, and terminates near the French cathedral, within a short distance of the upper town market-place. In its present winding form, it is very steep, and requires good lungs to ascend it. The little Canadian horses have a laborious task to drag up the heavy loads which their masters impose upon them. The carts used in Quebec are light, and usually drawn by one horse; their loads are not excessive, when drawing upon even ground ; but the carters seldom make any allowance up Mountain-street, though half the ordinary load is more than their horse can manage ; and they are obliged to make frequent stoppages on their way up. For a pedestrian, it is very fatiguing, if his business requires a frequent intercourse between the upper and lower towns ; otherwise, I con- ceive that two or three excursions up this hill in the course of a day arc cxtremel}^ conducive to health, and I believe the benefit of them is gene- rullv felt bv the inhabitants. This hill is not .1 11 J* Ll \ \ ( 't 30 CnKARNECK STAIRS. ,':)» h' l! : f : pi. 0' ! paved more than half Avay, the upper part, I suppose, being thought too steep for that pur- pose : if that is the case, I do not, however, sec tlic necessity of keeping the foot-paths and the road in such a riiirffed state : Mountain-street requires more iitlention than any other in Que- bec, yet it is nej?:lected the most. In winter time it is extremely dimgerous; the quantity of snow and ice, which accumulate in large masses, ren- ders it absolutely necessary for the inhabitants to provide themselves w ith outer shoes, shod with iron spikes or creepers. These they call goloslwes, and are most frequently used in the full or spring of the year, when it generally freezes and thaws ill succession for two or three w eeks. After the snow is well settled on the ground, and it be- comes dry walking, they make use of Shetland hose and list shoes, which are worn over their boots and shoes, and have the effect of keeping, the feet both warm and dry, while they prevent them slipping about. There is another communication between the two towns. This is by a long flight of steps, from the head of Champlain-street up to Moun- tain-street, nearly opposite Neilson's printing- office, v/hich is situate about half way up the hill. This communicatipn saves foot passengers a considerable round by the foot of the hill, which the winding of the street wcild otherwise occa- h '»' iv'i 1 < !ii"h Ni ^i Jt" I I'll I ;• ■"* < ..•■ .4* f r 'hii< I \. t '' • ,-» l^!ll t:R! ■! rih^ !•' )( ..1 i h'f ■ 1^ ij f t 1 J 1 i 1 1 i-' t \ r I'f; 1 '"■i I ! / •'■ i,mv.% BULAkNECK. STAIRS. ^l lion : by these steps they ascend into the Upper town in a few seconds. In the winter, however, this is a very dangerons place, particularly if the people who reside in the houses on each side ne- glect to keep the stairs clear from the ice and snow. Many a person has made a somerset from top to bottom, or, missing the first step, bus slid down upon his back the whole length of the stairs. The frequency of such acci(len(s hasgiveu occasion to the inhabitants to style them Break- neck-stairs ; certainly a very appropriate and ex- pressive title. . During the winter of 1S07, I one day saw a little boy in a small sleigh, in which was a dog completely harnessed, driving with great rapidity down the hill from Prescot Gate, and endeavour- ing to keep the dog, ( who was turning off every now and then, ) in the proper road. Just as they came to Breakneck stairs, the dog, I suppose, considering that to be the shortest way into the lower town, bolted out of his course,, and down he went with the boy and sleigh at his heels. I immediately ran to the head of the stairs, expect- ing that the boy*s neck was broke, but was most agreeably surprized to find, that the dog had car- ried him safe down, without even upsetting the sleigh. The boy kept his seat, but hallooed most lustily. On recovering from his fright, he smacked his whip over the dog's back, aud turned the ill ]k M >i!| f2 CANADIAN STORES. VaU M.t ' f; *..i y 7'» II corner of a house at the bottom of the stairs^ with as much app ircnt dexterity as some of our noble roachmen would have displayed in turning Hyde Park Corner. The boys at Quebec have also a peculiar amusement in the winter season, of lading them- selves at full length, with their breast upon a small sleigh, and sliding down from the top of the hill to the bottom : they glide along with surprizing velocity, yet can guide, and stop themselves with their feet, at pleasure. A few years ago, one of them amusing himself in this way, and neglecting to stop in time, was dashed against a house at the turning near the printing-office, and killed upon the spot. The shops, or stores, of the traders in the lower town do not exhibit that diversified and pleasing exhibition which is seen in London, of bow windows crowded with every description of goods, from the most trifling article of donutic manufacture, to the most costly productions of foreign countries. Here the stranger sees nothing but heavy stone buildings, gloomy casements, and iron-cased shutters painted red. If any shew is made at the window, it is with paltry articles of crockery, earthen, and hardware : on one side may be seen pans, mugs, tea-cups and saucers, tureens, aiid pots cle cliambrc : on the other, saws, files, knives and forks, jars, pots, hammers, and CANADIAN STORES. 23^ axes. These \vit!i a tolerable display of bear- skins, seal-kins, foxes (ails, and bulfalo robes, form tl:c invariable exhibition of a Canadian itorc. Even the British stofjkeepers make little or no show of their g^oods ; and the tnerchants, all of whom have stores, and warehouses for the disposal of their commodities, by wholesale or retail, content themselves with advertisini^ every week, ''their few pipes of London particular— hogsheads of claret of superior quality— fine old port — prime French brandy — superfine flour^ capital pickled pork and salmon — excellent mus- covado — good pine and oak timber, pine boards, and heading, all for cash, or short notes." The French storekeepers purchase their goods mostly at the auctions, where they sometimes buy things 'very cheap; but in general, I believe, they pay more than they would at the merchaiits' itores, independent of the time they lose in at- tending the sale. The cargo of a vessel that was lost in the St. Lawrence, in 1807, was sold by auction at Quebec, in a damaged state : it amount- ed to upwards ofsixtj/ thousand pounds ; and, I aiA told, cleared more than ten per cent, profit upon the prime cost. The eagerness of the people to purchase at auctions^ and the number of sales tliat take place every week, considerably le-ssen the trade of the regular storekeepers, and re:der the profession of the auctioneers extremely Im* ■fi; itiM Ilia 4 TinEnNs. W S I m rcralive: they are already numerous in Que- be c, and contrive to realize very handsome in- comes : they receive two and a half per cent, on large sales, and live per cent, upon the s mailer ones. The taverns in Quebec are very numerous, and yet a stranger is much surprized to find, on his arrival, only two houses that deserve that high- sounding name. This arises from the vanity that has taken possession of all our Transatlantic bre- thren, from the confines of Florida to the coast of Labrador, to designate their paltry public houses, or spirit shops, by the more sonorous and digni-. tied title of Taverns. Every little dirty hole, where a few glasses of rum, gin, or whiskey, are sold, is a Tavern. The better sort are of coiuse HStels: and so ignorant are the painters who be- daub their signs, that the " Ship Tavreu," Such- a-one's " Tavcriine/' constantly meet your eye. Some few French Canadians stick to the good old titles of " Juberge/' and '' Aubergiste/' and now and then take care to inform the public in bad French orthography, that they sell their liquorsj " Aujourd'hui pour I'argent, Demain pour rien." The only taverns or hotels in Quebec that are really respectable are, the Union Hotel, on the Parade, near the Governor's chateau, and Sturch's, 'I UNION HOTEL. 25 in Jolin-stieqt. The Union Hotel, formerly kept by a half-pay officer of the name of Hohiies, now proprietor of Hamilton's Tavern, at Montreal, was built by a subscription raised among- the principal merchants and inhahitants of Quebec. Though the shares were only twenty-five pounds, yet it was a considerable time before a snOi- cient sum was raised to complete the buildiijg, which appears to have been planned with little judgment. The whole house comprises only four larc;c rooms. On the ground floor is a co flee -room, much too large for the company who frequeist if, and two dining-rooms. The other apartment is above them, and has been fitted up for a ball- room : it contains a good orchestra, and other requisites for the assemblies and concerts which are held there in the winter season. This is th« only part of the plan that has been laid out with success; for the room is lofty and extensive, well furnished, and excellently adapted for its intended purposes. A small house at the back of, and adjoining to, the new building, has been converted into bed-chambers, kitchens, and apart- ments for the master of the hotel ; but not more than twenty or thirty persons can be accommo- dated with beds, though, from appearances, the house ought to coiitain accommodation for four times that number. w i li b. I iv t(y «ENERAL MONTGOMERY-. ^ ■fill The principal support of the house, at first, 'was by an annual subscription of two guineas per annum ; all who chose to pay that sum were entitled to frequent the coflee-room, but no others : this disgusted a great many of the ori- ginal subscribers, who refused to contribute be- yond their share of twenty-five pounds; in con- sequence of which it was laid aside, and the room thrown open to all without distinction. Matters ■were, however, but little improved by this pro- ceeding; for it compelled the gentry and prin- cipal merchants to keep away, because it hurt their pride to mix with the plebeians. ' The person who keeps the hotel at present is a good-natured, crack-brained Irishman, who suffers himself io be cheated in all directions, ■while he, no doubt believes that he is making a rapid fortune ; but I imagine it is such a fortune as the Irishman who drew a prize in the lottery, was apprehensive would ruin him. About three hundred yards from our residence, in Cham plain- street, the American General Montgomery perished in his attempt to surprize the Lower Town, in the early part of the American war. Several persons have claimed the merit of having defeated that enterprize : it is generally thought to have been effected by a detachment of soldiers and sailors ; yet I have heard it posi- tively asserted, that no regular miliiary force was •%:•- GENEfRAL MONTGOMERY. 27 near the spot at the time the attack commenced ; but that at the moment General Montgomery and his party were passing, in apparent security, along the foot of the rock, where there was then only a very narrow path, a brisk fire of musketry, and a piece of cannon, immediately opened upon their flank, out of the window of a small house, situated at the water's edge, where a small party of the inhabitants and a few sailors had posted themselves. The surprize and alarm which this unexpected attack created, together with a heavy fall of snow, under cover of which General Montgomery had commenced his march, threw the Americans into confusion ; and seeing their General, his two aids- de-camp, and a number of men, killed by the first fire, they retreated in the greatest disorder. The General's body, in which no less than eleven baits were found, was carried into the town, and buried within the fortification, near the citadel. No stone or monument distinguishes his grave ; but the place is remarkable, being within the walls, which inclose a powder magazine, and was pointed out to me by Colonel Glasgow of the arlillery. It is said that, about three or four years ago, his fri(!nds and relations in the United States made application to the Governor for his bones, in order to inter them at New York with military . M il. . < ■i . ■P ■I '.it m m il:' 4v ' M i:l ■^i F i fIJ 1 ■ ■ 'I i 1. f t ' i" ' ■\ '■ i' 2S SIEGE OF QUEBEC IN 1775. honours, under the monument which has been erected to his memory. Their request was re- fused, bat for what reason I could not learn. A man of the name of M 'Quarter, who keeps & tavern in Champlain-strect, has the credit of being the person who resided in the house, and headed the small party that so suddenly stopped the progress of General Montgomery, by their brisik fire from the window. I know not how far this account may be entitled to belief, aaiidst the various contradictory statements that I have heard; but more credit is generally given to it than to any other. An extensive brewery is now situated nearly upon the spot where that memo- rable affair took place. ArnoUl, the otlier American General, made his attack upon the upper town ; Mr. Weld has said at St. John's Gate, which occasions him to remark upon the absurdity of Arnold's attacking one of the strongest parts of the fortification. This I have been informed was not the case, but that he made his attack in person upon that part now called Hope's Gate, leading to St. Rocque's suburb, at that time merely a barrier of picket^ ing. Two or three other places were, however, attacked at the same time ; and it is most likely that a feint was made at St. John's Gate as well as at Palace Gate ; but the points where Arnold principally depended for success was the place SEIGE OF QUEBEC IN 1775. 29 where he attacked in person ; and a picket guard, now called Prescot Gate, a short distance from the top of Mountain-street, which commands the entrance into the lower town. This barrier is now strongly fortified, and surmounted with a kind of block-house, with loop-holes for mus- ketry, beneath which is an archway of stone, se- cured with double gates. On one side of the gate are embrazurcs, with two pieces of cannon of large calibre; on the other are powerful works of stone, within which is situated a large build- ing, called the Bishop's Palace : it was formerly the abode of the French catholic- bishop, but at present it is occupied for public offices on one side, and for the house of assembly, legislative, and executive councils, on the other. It is generally thought, that Arnold would have succeeded in entering with his party, had he not been wounded. The Americans kept possession of the lower town for three or four days after the attack. Many of them sheltered themselves from the fire of the garrison in a large stone building, called the Intendant's Palace, situated just with- out the walls adjoining the suburb of St. Rocque, lu the time of the French government, it was the residence of the intendant, an o.dicer of secon- dary rank to the governor, though frequently possessed of much greater power and influence For some time this buildina; was soared bv the HA 'A iV i 'A- ' \\\i r, A 30 INTENDANT 8 PALACE. »• r. Ul. ' ;i" i garrison ; but finding the Americans annoyed them very much with their rifles, being defended only by a wooden picketting along the rock, they soon reduced it to a heap of ruins, and compelled the Americans to shift their quarters. In this state the building remains at this day : but massy stone walls have been erected upon the opposite rock where the picketting formerly stood ; and loop holes for musketry are left at short distances, so that in future, the garrison can never be annoyed in that quarter, except by heavy ar- tillery, an article which the Americans did not possess, and without which it is the very height of folly to attempt to besiege Quebec. The house of the intendant was called the Pa- lace, because the council of the French govern- ment of North America was held there. It was a very handsome stone building, and contained several large, elegant apartments, which were furnished with magnificence and splendour. To the northward there was a spacious garden, well- stocked with every variety of fruit-trees, shrubs, plants, &c. On one side the court-yard were placed the king's stores, and on tlie other, the prison. In this house all the deliberations con- cerning the province were held, and those ma- gistrates who had the management of the police and civil power also met here. The intendant generally presided, but in affairs of importance ; m I %•. -II ,1! INTENDANT S PALACE. 31 the governor-general was present. This building had been burnt down no less than three times, previous to its demolition in the American war. The walls are all that are now left of it, and it is not Mkely that it will ever be rebuilt. ;^! i I 'iVl .: ft :: « 1^ I :i !l 32 ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF QUEBEC, t /• CHAPTER III. I II,. I Oiigiti of the jYame of Q/ichec-^Its strong natural Situation and ^Advantages — Capability of Dc* fence in case of War with the United States— ^ Origin of the War betxvcen the Iroquois and AluonqninS'-^Impolitic Conduct of Champlain ^•—Foriijications of Quehec — Expedition of Sir William Phipps — New Improvements — Mar^ tello Towers — Wolfe's Cove — Battle of the Plains of AhraJiam — Death of General Wolfe "^Ingratitude of his Countrymen in Canada — Statue in St. John's-street-'-'Garrison Tiwops '^Colonel Glasgow Commandant — Inspecting Field Officers of the Canadian Militia. to The name of Quebec is said to have originated from the Norman language^ and that one of the persons who accompanied M. de. Champlain on his expedition up the rivei^ on his arriving in sight of the peninsula, formed by the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles, exclaimed *' Quel- bcc \" '' what a point !" — Others l-owever, as- sert, that the name is derived from the Algonquin word Quebeio or Quebec, which sig-nifies contract ORIGIN OF THE NAME OP QUEBEC. SS wps tins ited the on ill St. lel- as- luin tion, because tlie St. Lawrence becomes con- fractefl between Qtiebec, and Point Levi, where it is scarcely three quarters of a mile across, which is very narrow when compared with other parts of the river. The Abonaqiiis word Quelibec, sig- nifying shut npi has also been thought to have given rise to the name, because the Abenaquis Indians who lived over at Chaudierc, about three leagues from Quebec, coming from thence, could see nothing of the two channels formed by the island of Orleans, that to the southward being hid by Point Levi, and the northern one by the island. The port of Quebec, thus inclosed, appears like a great bay or lake. From which of these three languages the name of Quebec has originated, is yet undecided; though I think the Algonquin word has a prefer- ence over the Norman, because the language of the Algonquins, at one time the most powerful nation in Canada, was universally spoken by the Indians of that country. The Abcnaquis expres- sion Quelibcc, is nothing more than a corruption of the Algonquin Qucbeio or Quebec ; this is the more evident, as their significations are nearly sy- nonimous. Another reason why I think the In- ilian appellation was more likely to have origi- nated the name tlian the Norman, is the impro- bability that M. de Champlain should have de- nominaU'd that remarkable spot, where he after- VOL. I, O H^ I 3 34 NATURAL ADVANTAGES OF QUEUEit. wards built a city, merely from the casual excla- mation of one of his men. It is most likely that he preserved the Indian name, as he did in several other places ; not wishing, perhaps, totally to de- stroy the only vestige of aniiquily that he found in the country. The rage for altering ancient names was as prevalent in his age as it is in ours ; and kings, princes, and saints, received their full share of that species of honour. It is not proba- ble, therefore, that Cham plain would have ne- glected such an excellent opportunity as the foun- dation of a new city afforded him, of honouring the memory of some favourite saint, king, or prince of the blood royal ; without some better reason, than that one of his attendants exclaimed, " What a point !" The near affinity, however, of the Norman expression to the Indian name, has no doubt furnished the Jesuit missionaries with a plausible pretext for their assertion. The strong, natural situation of Quebec, with the apparent strength of its fortifications, have led many people to look upon it as another Gib- raltar. Nothing, however, can be more errone- ous. Within these few years, great additions and improvements have certainly been made, which have strengthened many of its former weak points : but there yet remains much to accom- plish before it ever can rank, even second to that celebrated fortress. Nature has, indeed, done % 1 ril NATURAL ADVANTAGES OP QUEBECl 35 more for it than art will ever accomplish. Be- sides its local advantages, it is separated by im- mense forests and rivers from an invading army of the United States, the only country from which Quebec has any thing to dread, while it remains in the hands of the English. An expedition from France will never be undertaken, while we keep possession of the ocean. Should a war ever take place between Great Britain and the United States, it is more than probable, that the latter would attempt to conquer Canada. Their great object would be to drive us from the American continent, as much as to ob- tain an equivalent in the event of peace. Great exertions would undoubtedly be made ; and ail immense army transported across Lake Cham- plain would most likely carry all before it, till it arrived in the neighbourhood of Quebec. The difficulty of bringing with it a large battering train, would, I think, prove insurmountable ; and without that all their attempts to get possession of the city must fail, provided the work« were well manned. As long as we retain the capital in our hands the country can never be conquered, it may be over-run and desolated, but the enemy must eventually retreat, if we keep up any tolera- ble force of regulars and militia. When the French first settled in Canada, their only object of defence was against the hostile d2 ■i'\ 1 jjI !' .1 f S6 IROQUOIS AND ALGONQl'INWAIt. tribes of Indians, \v!io rominitted continual de- predations upon tlieir persons and property. Tile liarassinu; and destrnetive nftarks wliicli t!jose -avages made upon ■ «^ •<« ^^ ■•Jk;^^ •*'V-;(.v:^.V j/^ •,(,.-;-. »r »■.«■ ■ "■ n n 11 I tt'« .■ ■< bM i^i it . l|j il is; ii I % '4, "1451 BATTLE OF THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 43 ~5 ^ lieving their intentions were to lard tlier-e, de- taclied Bougainville, with eight battalions, and some artillery, to oppose them. In the mean time the British squadron silently put about^ and dropped down with the tide to Wolfe's cove, while Mons. Bougainville kept marching with his detachment in a contrary direction. The landing commenced about four o'clock in the morning, and ended before eight. By that time the British had scaled the heights, and formed their line, with two field-pieces in front, and the 48th regiment as a body of reserve. The light infantry to cover the rear, the 15th »'cgi- ment and the royal Americans to cover the land- ing place. The Marquis de Montcalm, who was with the main body of his army on the shores of Beau» port, hearing that the English had gained the heights of Abraham, could scarcely credit his senses. He immediately hurried across the river St. Charles, and formed his line on the plains between eight and* nine o'clock, with one field- piece, and his irregulars posted in flying parties to attack the British flanks. The French line began to charge about nine, g,dvancing briskly, and for some little time in good order : a part of the line began to fire too soon, which immediately caught through tlie Tvholfi. They then began to waver, but kept ad J . i 1. »''i •■'.Ana '.lt\ ■*] !l' .^'i 44 DEATH OF GENERAL WOLFE. rl. N, ' it ■i 1^ ♦'«.' vancing with a scattered fire. When they had got within about a hundred jardsof the Biitisli line, the latter moved up regularly with a steady fire, and when within twenty or thirty yards of clos- ing, gave a general volley ; upon which a total rout of the enemy ensued. Bougainville's detachment appeared in sight just before the conclusion of the battle ; but bcinc: satisfied that there weie no laurels for him to gain, he decamped, in double quick time, to Point au Tremble, i\ om thence to Three Rivers, and afterwards to Montreal ; a distance of one hundred and eighty miles. This decisive battle was fought on the 13th Sept. 1759, and on the 1 8th, Quebec surrendered by capitulation. The terms granted were ho- nourable to the garrison and advantageous to the inhabitants, who were to he protected in the full enjoyment of their civil rights, and the free exer- cise of their religion, until a general peace should decide their future condition. Wolfe, like Epaminondas, breathed out his ioul in the arms of victory, who ascended with it to immortality. His death was a national loss, and as greatly lamented as that of Nelson, who also fell in the moment of victory, and died with nearly the same words upon his lips. The me- mory of such men can never be prized too much; for a century is too short a period to replace them. i te DEATH OF GENERAL WOLFE. 45 The spot where Wolfe died, I have often vi- sited with a sort of pleasing melancholy. It is the corner of a small redoubt, which is yet visi- ble, and was formerly distinguished by a large rock-stone, upon which it is said he was sup- ported after he received the fatal wound. From this stone, strangers were frequently prompted, by their feelings, to break off a small piece to keep as a memento of the fate of that gallant hero ; but the sacrilegious hands of modern up- start innovators have removed that sacred relic, because it came within the inclosure of a certain Commissary-general, who had erected what he called a pavilion, and would, probably, have soon planted potatoes and cabbages in the redoubt, had he not been discharged from his office by the present Governor-general, for a trifling defici- ency in his accounts. I never could contemplate the rock, the forti- fications of Quebec, the plains of Abraham, and the little redoubt to which General Wolfe was borne in the midst of the battle, without reflect- ing on the ingratitude of his countrymen in Ca- nada, who have not only shamefully neglected his memory, by withholding from him a monu- ment, or statue, which his merits deserve, and in the benefits of which they are now participating; but have suftercd the last sad remuins of the spot on which he breathed his Ust, to be sacrificed to .'■M I ? '1V.\ >! 46 STATUE OF WOLFE IN ST. JOHN-STREET. m the insolent vanity of an obscure individual. His countr^fmen in England have honoured his me- mory with an elegant monument in their venera- ble mausoleum for distinguished characters ; but the only mark of respect which his ( cuntrymcn in Canada have vouchsafed to bestow, is a paltry wooden statue, about four (eet high, stuck up at the corner of a house in St. John-street. This humble, (or I should rather say elegant ),sipec\men of Canadian carving, represents the General in the uniform of a common soldier, with his mus- ket, belts, cartouch-box, and bayonet, a little three-cornered hat, and long-skirted coat reaching half-way down his legs. It is possible this may be a correct delineation of the General, as he went into battle at the head of his army. As such it is not unworthy a stranger's notice ; but surely it ii not a statue worthy of commemorating such ex- traordinary talents, courage, and perseverance, as our gallant hero possessed and displayed at the liege and conquest of Quebec. I hope, therefore, that under the administration of the present Go- vernor-general, himself so celebrated for his mi- litary services, the inhabitants of Canada will display their generosity and spirit, by erecting a suitable monument to the memory of General Wolfe. The commerce of the country was never so great as at present, nor the people better able to defray the expenses attending a design far /I GARRISON OF QUEttEC. 47 moresvorthy of their nninificencc, than that hide- ous structure of wood and stone, which at pre- sent encumbers and diif Sir Ja„,es Cr!4 trr'"^' '"'*'"«' "- P"'PO«e by the provincialp! i^'" '"' """ finished it will posLr ^'"^^'"""""t- When ^•ews of the river and ,f P"*'' """d extensive 7 "e ^«rpa.ed :: ;;rt:;^;^r""''^- - B'^b'-nd the buildin "fs / ° '" ^''^^ '^°""- balcony, even with the lo ^^" '""" S''""^ or gallery, which ser esa, 17 '"'"""^"*^- T'.i. "ad., is situated morl thanT"''' T""''''' P^"'"-' f -above the, eve, :;<;!: /;„r-^ and ««, beantlfu, panorama view of H t """"''""'« » f; shipping in the rTvclpl- t^'T ^'"""- I^'and of Orieans-shorlTof R ^''-'^"> '-t -onntains, a scene If 7"^^' ''"' "'■'■ ,j grand and extensive i:.' ■»■■< ■• i||t >-i r^H il ■I; •I ?. i (i 1 fp >i b2 PUBLIC BUILDINGS OF THE UPPER TOWN. as it is possible for the imagination to conceive, or the eye to survey. To complete the plan upon which the old chateau is rebuilding, the guard-house on the right has been pulled down, and a new one of i>tonc is constructing on a larger scale. The back part of this building and the sides, which will open into the court yard, are to contain the Go- vernor's horses and carriages, and a part is to be appropriated for a riding school. The other chateau on und between it and the cathedral. J>ut the public buildings oF Quebec never seem to lia\e ])Len constructed with anir 'H Jt we except tl.n P„Jr i , '°""; »"ou.,o..e '0% and .,,„•„:, The "'m ""'"^ "* *'one and „ ood ; covere , <^ 7 " P" ''^ "'' ^'ap^oard, pain;o;ri r:,::'"p;f ^r " ornamented with n l.o ^ ^^'"^ ^''*^"*^s -hlT'::;:;:;"'::':"j'^"",-o-t-honseand -'■-''-.u,rntdo..,narc^::::„.:7'''-'' M II. M 1 .; Mil ^^llillii J4 COLLECT OF JESUITS. If ..» dent, and did considerable damage in that quar- ter of the town. Many other parts were also much endangered, particularly the Lower Tovvn^ into which the blazing shingles were carried by the wind ; they even fell into the river, and obliged a frigate lying at anchor, to slip her cable and run down to the Island of Orleans. This order of friars, of whom there were then but few ; being by profession very poor, and subsisting only upon the charity of the inhabitants; were un- able to rebuild their house, and became distri- buted in different parts of the country. There are only two now alive, and they reyide at Mont- real ; they continue to go about habited in the dress of their order. The college of the Jesuits is situated in the market, and now makes very excellent barracks for the soldiers. As the Jesuits in Canada, a^ well as in different parts of the world, were once a very powerful body of men, and possessed more influence for a time over the people among whori^ they lived, than even the sovereigns themselves, it may be amusing, and perhaps instructive, to describe them as they existed in th^t country about sixty years ago, at which period, their power, though on the decline, was yet considerable. At this day not an individual of that society is alive in Canada, the British Government having wisely prohibited the religious male orders^ the priests COLLEGE OF JESUITS. 53 excepted, from augmenting their numbers. The government faithfully allowed the orders to tea-* joy the whole of their revenues, as long as ther« existed a single individual of the body ; but en his death tlie property reverted to the crown. The building in which the Jesuits resided^ is well laid out ; and when occupied by them, and in good order and repair, must have been the handsomest building in Canada. It consists of stone, and is three stories high, above which arc garrets, with a sloping roof covered with slate, even at this day in a good state of preservation ; a circumstance, which, I am surprized, has not induced the inhabitants to cover their houses with slate, as they could import it f'-om Scotland cheaper than tin. The college is built in a square form, and includes a large court-yard within. In every story there is a long walk, on both sides of which the brethren had their private cells or rooms, exclusive of the public halls, refectory, library, apothecary's shop, and other ^Apartments for general use, A large orchard and kitchen garden was situated on the south side ot the building. A part of the trees in the former were the remains of the forest which covered the mountain when the French began to build the city, and are in existence at the present day. The interior economy of the college was well M I* n 7 "'v 56 DESCRIPTION OF THE JESITITS, regulated. The Jesuits used to dine in a great hall, around which weio 'placed long tables with seats between them and tiie walls, but not on the opposite side. On one side the refectory was a pulpit, ip which, during meals, one of the fathers used to read some religious book ; but when visitors dined with them, this practice was omit- ted; the time being generally employed in con- versation. Their dinners were always good ; and when company was present, their dishes were as numerous as at a great feast. They never per- mitted a woman to reside among them. All were fathers or brothers, the latter of whom were young men brought up to be Jesuits ; they used to pre- pare every thing for dinner, in the hall, and bring it on table ; the common sei-vants not being admitted. ' '■ ' There were three kinds of clergy in Canada. The Jesuits, the priests, and iae recollects. The first were considered so much superior to the rest, that the Canadians had the following proverb to shew how much the one surpassed the other. "Pour faire un Recollect, il faut une hachette, pour un Pretre un' ciscau, mais pour un Jesuite, il faut un pin^eau." ''To make a recollect you 'must have an axe, for a priest a chizel, but for a Jesuit you must have a pencil.'* The Jesuits were generally very learned and studious, and vpry agreeable company. In their DESCRIPTION OF THE JESUITS. 57 whole deportment there was something so pleasing and irresistible, that it is not silrprii- ing they captivated the minds of the people. Xu mixed company thej never spoke of religious matters, and if the subject, by chance, was ii»tro- duced, they generally avoided disputes. They had the character of being always ready to ren- der assistance, often even before it was required of them ; and their conversation was so enter- taining and learned, that a person seldom could be tired of heir company. They never cared to become preachers to a congregation in town or country, but always left those places, and the emoluments arising from them to the priests. All their business in Canada was to convert the In- dians, and with that view their missionaries were scattered over every part of the country. These missionaries were so zealous in their cause, that in winter they accompanied the Indians in their great hunting parties, when they were frequently obliged to suffer all imaginable inconveniences : walking in the snow all day, and at night lying in the open air, regardless of good or biui weather, and what was often worse, Ivina' in the Indian wigwams, huddled together with the ravages, who were frequently swarming with fleas and other vermin. These hardships, sunte- times aggravated by hunger, did the Jesuits un- dergo for th:^ sake of converting the Indians ; but I''. M I \ \\%x^' % K' . •I! !)8 DESCllIPTION OF THE JESUITS. 1! ^f 1 ir ' 1 ifc ;:7:1 *, i i! as mucli, perhaps, for political as religioul rea- sons. Yet what an indefatigable body of men must thcjT have been; for though they were seek- ing their own aggrandizement, as well as to fur- ther the political views of their own country, one would think that the life of hardships which they led, would have cooled their zeal ; and no doubt but it would, had they been any other people than Jesuits. This body of men must have been of great service to their country, for they were often able to persuade the Indians to break their trea- ties with the English, and make war upon tliefn to bring their furs to the French, and not permit the English to come amongst them. Sometimes the Indians, when in liquor, would kill the Je- suits, calling them spies, or excuse themselves by saying that the brandy had killed them. The Jesuits never attended at funerals, nor visited the sick, nor heard confessions ; those of- fices they left for the priests. They were reck^ oned a most cunning set of people, who generally succeeded in their undertakings ; and surpassed all others in acutencss and understanding ; they were therefore not without jealous enemies jn Canada. It was their custom never to receive any among^ them, but persons of very promising parts; so that no blockheads ever crept into their society. An anecdote to this effect is related of Christopher Clj^vius, a German Jesuit I ■ i I. ,4 DESC1tI<»TI0N OF THE JE8U1TI. at diistin^uished for his mathematical knowledge, and employed by Gregory XUI. in the refonnu- tion of the calendar. He died at Rome in 1612^ at tlie age of seventy-6ve. This learned charac- ter, when a boy, was entered in a college of Je- suits ; and, after having been tried at several parts of learning, was upon the point of being dismissed as an hopeless blockhead, until one of the fathers took it in his head to make an essay of his parts in geometry, which it seems hit his genius so luckily, that he afterwards berame one of the greatest mathematicians of the age. It is commonly thought that the sagacity of the fa- thers in discovering the talent of a young student, has not a little contributed to the figure which their order has made in the world. On the other hand, the priests received the best kind of people they could meet, and the re- collects were yet less careful. They never endea- voured to get cunning fellows among them, but took all that offered ; and so far from tormenting their brains with much learning, they, on putting on the monastic habit, often forgot what little they knew. As they had made vows of poverty, they subsisted by begging, and the young monks or brothers used to carry a bag from house to house, to receive alms. Such an order of men in a new country, like Canada, was most destruc- tive to society, and to the prosperity of the. co- r » V »■/ I'l I* ,h 60 JEAN JOSI rii CASnT. 11 iH rf .'■I '■; I lonv. They were the locusts of the land, and the benefit of their extermination must he sensiblr The revenue of the Jesuit soeietv was very considerable, being; upwards of Uvelve thousand pounds per annum, at the time it reverted to the crown. It had been for several vears enioved solely by an old father, who had survived all the rest. This Jesuit, whose name was Jean Joseph Casot, was a native of Switzerland, and born in 1728. In his youth he was no more than porter to the college ; hot havin;^ considerable ment, lie was promoted, and in the cour«e of time re- ceived into the order. He had the character of possessing an amiable and generous disposition, and employed his large income in charitable purp,oscs. He died a few years ago, at a very advanced age. For some time previous to his death, he shut himself up in his apartments, and became inaccessible to all but his attendants. The crown, on his demise, came into possession of the property, for the management of which, commissioners have been appointed. The lauds which belonged to that body, as well, indeed, as to the religious orders in general, arc by far the best in the country, and produce the greatest re- venues. ,. The French seminary or college at Quebec is situated close io the PtcucIi cathedral, between ihc blr crv the ved tl le II ill iter crit, rc- r of ion, able forv lis anu nis. iion nds Ao est lre> IS Icri ■i f It iF % ^. '^V. ^ "<^- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A U.. 1.0 1.1 1.25 ■ 50 ™^^ 2.5 2.2 I li£ 112.0 WUi. 1.8 U IBM ^ V] <^ A'*' '/ /A Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 I ^ 4^/.. 'f^ 6^ Id P^ .dim 1 It i »•• I.W ' ^ h THE HOTEL DIEU. 61 the market-place and the ramparts. The building is spacious, and substantially built, thouj^h, like most of the public edifices in Quebec, it lias suf- fered much fronk fire. It was burned down in 1703, and again fe^^705, when just rebuilt. At the back of the seminary, there is a very extensive garden, well laid out, and possessing every requi- site that can contribute to the recreation of the students. It commands a beautiful view of the river, the island of Orleans, and the opposite shores. The seminary was originally instituted to bring up students for the priesthood. No funds were allowed for the education of youth in general ; but since the conquest, it has ad- mitted scholars without limitation of number, for an acknowledgment of five shillings per annum for out-pensioners, and twelve [)ounds ten shillings for boarders. The boys educated there at present are numerous, and chiefly the children of the French inhabitants. Those intended for the church remain there till their education is com- pleted, or till a parish can bo given them. The nunneries have not been restricted by go- vernment, consequently they are in general well fijled. The Hotel Dieu is a large building, situ- ated, with its gardens, near Palace Gate. It was founded in 1(338 by the Duchess d'Aiguillon, who sent from the Hospital at Dieppe three nuns, ior the purj.osc of commencing this charitable M n d It ^k ;i 62 ANECDOtE OF A YOUKO LADY. M i m ':.iH instituiiDD. It consists of an hospital for the sick, who are received here, and attended by the nuns^ without any expense to the patients. The invalids of both sexes are comfortably lodged in wardsj and every attention paid to them by the sisters, of whom there are about twenty*seven> with a superior. Females are received as novices for two years, during which time they wear the white veil ; and if they then are determined to enter the order, they take the black veil, which seals their initiation, and incloses them in the convent for life. It is very seldom, however, that a female goes into the relii^ious houses of this country until she despairs of ever getting a hus- band. Some few young and handsome girls havft at different times sacrificed themselves, either from resentment or despair, at the caprice of a parent, or the faithless conduct of a lover. I heard of a singular anecdote concerning a young lad}', who had a narrow escape from per- petual imprisonment in one of the convents at Quebec. It seems that the mother, Madame B— t d'A y , had made a most absurd and ridiculous vow, previous to the birth of this child, that if she died in child-birth, and the infant was a female, it should be dedicated to the secvice of Christ. This event did happen, and the child was ncoordingly brought up in the strictest man- !H<^r at the convent. The father too appeared ATfECDOtE OF A YOVNG LADV. 6.^ fully determined^ that when of age his daughter should take the veil^ agreeable to the dying re- quest of her mother. When the young lad}^, however, grew up to years of maturitVy she seemed more inclined to fulfil the divine com- mand of the Almighty, to " increase and multi- ply/' than to lead a life of celibacy in a content. Her heart was toon captivated by the tender assi- duities of a gallant youth, and vows of love, in- stead of religion, hound her to him. Their af- fection was mutual, and as long as she reflected upon that, she dreaded not the infatuated vow of her mother. It happened that her lover was obliged to go abroad for some time. Imperious circumstances delayed his return, and the time approached when she was to be sacrificed at the altar. It was now two years since he had left her, and for a long time she had heard no tidings of him. Hope, iiear, and despair, alternately took pos- session of her mind. She could not believe that he was faithless, yet knew not how to account for his absence and neglect; at a pc" riod too when he must be acquainted with her unfortunate destination. The father persisted in his determination to make her renounce the world, and the day arrived when this distressing scene was to take place. Her story was well known ia Quebec, and crowds were at the convent at ftii «, • V ( * ') I'l 4? I I': I'M ^\i 64 CONTENT OP IT. UllSULE. I \i early hour, to witness the sight. Like a lamb led to be sacrificed, she approached the altar. The bishop commenced the ceremony, which generally lasts a considerable time. At length he came to that part, where she is asked, whether she will accept the veil, that is to wed her to Christ ? At this moment all eyes were fixed upon her pale and death-like countenance. Her eyes were drowned in tears, and her frame was nearly sinking under such a weight of woe, when, look- ing round the crowd, she suddenly started, and immediately turning to the bishop, declared, with much fumness, that she would be wedded to no one on earth but that young man, pointing to her lover. In an instant, all eyes were turned upon the fortunate youth, who had providentially arrived that day at Quebec ; and, on hearing the melancholy talc, immediately hurried to the con- vent; and, pushing his way through the crowd, arrived just in time to prevent the unfortunate catastrophe. It was a joyful scene, and the bishop, without hesitation, married the young couple on the ppot. Thus was a day of mourning turned into joy, for every person had regretted the fate of the young lady, who was a very hand- some and amii'.blc 2:irl. The convent of Ursulines was instituted in 1639, by a rich young widow in France, Ma- dame dc la Pcltric, for tlie ((hicalion of female CONVENT OF ST. URSULE. 65 children. It belongs to a superior and thirty-six nunsj who instruct the girls in reading, embroi- dery, and fine work; no men are allowed to visit this or any of the convents, without permis- sion from the bishop. The sisters of St. Ursule are more strict and recluse than those of the othercon- vents. They have a large garden adjoining their house, which supplies them with a variety of fruit, herbs, and vegetables, a portion of which they sell to the inhabitants ; for their institution is not very rich. They also employ themselves with embroi- dery, pickling, and preserving of fruits, and vege- tables, which are disposed of for the benefit of the society. This convent, like the rest of the public buildings in Canada, has suffered twice or three times by fire. It is now substantially built of stone, and the roof covered with tin. The general hospital which is situated some distance out of the town, on the banks of the river St. Charles, surrounded by meadow-lands, is the third convent belonging to Quebec. It was founded about the year 1693, by M. de St. Vallier, bishop of Quebec, for the purpose of afford- ing support and relief to the infirm, the aged, the sick, and wounded poor^ of both sexes, and in this charitable and praiseworthy service it continues to this day. A superior and thirty seven sisters fulfil the duties of the institution^ in a manner that V0L» I F ivV if.' ■w, r M M MONASTIC INSTITUTIONS, i ii- i . i' does flicm the liigliest honor, and entitles them to tlic gratitude and Ihiinks of the public. Their religious duties are pcrforrnrd without relaxing thosn of humanity, and their leisure moments arc spent ill useful and ornamental works, the profits of which assist the revenues of the hospital. I cannot quit this cursory notice of the female religious institutions at Quebec, without paying them a tribute of applause to which they are justly entitled. Few, it is true, go into those holy receptacles, but such as are tired of the world. They are cither satiated with its pleasures, or disgusted with its cares. But the objects for ■which they leave the world, are not to live in easy idleness, or careless indifference. Two out of three institutions bestow their time, attention, and property, upon the sick and aged poor. The other devotes the services of its sisters to the education and instruction of young females. Such are the charitable offices performed by the Canadian nuns, whose religious duties are equally meritorious. The existence, therefore, of these religious orucrs, I conceive to be highly advantageous to the people of Canada, and serviceable to the go- vernment. In a catholic country governed and regulated by the liberal constitution of England, those institutions are rendered of public utility. The suppression of the male orders was wise and I. m I '.'^ h ^ PRIESTS. at em ale aying ey are eboly world. res, or cts for live in wo out ;ention. The to the 'males, by the qually politic, because, however useful the Jesuits might have been to their own government, it is hardly possible that they could have ever been recon- ciled to act in favor of one whose religious tenets clashed with theirs. As to the begging friars, no nation could be benefitted by them. The priests or catholic clergy at present so nu- merous, and who have received the support and protection of the English government, are en- titled to particular notice. From the great in- fluence which they possess over the minds of the Canadians, their importance cannot be ques- tioned. In a subsequent chapter I shaU offer some observations upon th«m. ■) Uigious ;ous to l^he go- id and igland, (utility. ise and F^ i UPPER TOWN OF QUEBEC. f|i. ■f 1: :;(!■ !■( J IJ!:> J #i; r V 11 I ,* /if ■ ' '1, •'"' '. i/hr '«!li i; i CHAPTER V. Upper Town of Quebec — New BuildingS'^-'But' chers' Market-^ Dangerous Edifice — Excellent Oliject for a Besieging Army — Magisterial Folly and Extravagance'^Shew of Meat the Day qfter Good Friday— -'Feasting after Lent^^ Price of Provisiotis — Frozen ProDisions kept for Jive Months — Extravagant Price of Euro- pean Goods — Tommy Cods— Fish — Wild Pi- geons-^A Market Scene — Poor Mtdrooney — The Habitant OutuHted — Stinking Cheese an Epicurean Delicacy— Butter from Green Island — Frozen Milk — Maple Sugar — Origin of Eating Sweet Things with Meat — Price of Articles at Market—Canadian Currency. The Upper Town, is certainly the most agree- able part of Quebec both in summer and winter. In the former season^ the heat is not so intense as in many parts of the Lower Town^ nor in win- ter is it so dreary and dull. The cold is, how- ever, severer by several degrees. Even between Cape Diamond and the l^pper Town, there is frequently a difference in the weather of nearly 10 "But- cellent isterial mt the Lent-^ IS kept ' Euro- lid Pi- wneij — eese an I Island gin of rice of 12/. agree- w inter. intense lin win- ts, how- )etweeu I there is iarly 10 M .to UPPER TOWN OF QUEUEC. 69 degrees. The thermometer in February 1807, was to degrees below 0. in St. Louis-street^ and ou the Cape 30 below 0. The latter being elevated upwards of 70 feet above the former. The streets in the Upper Town arenot remark- able for width ; but many of them are tolerably paved, yet a considerable part of the town remains without that beneficial improvement. \ fortified town, confined like Quebec to the summit and base of a steep rock, is not very well adapted ei- ther for convenient sti'eets, or elegant buildings. They must always be regulated by the localities of its situation. But much more might certainly have been eflfected for general comfort and con- venience, had this place fallen into the hands of any other than a Roman Catholic people, whose numerous religious institutions have occupied nearlyone-half the town. Their large buildings, and extensive gardens, were not of so much con- sequence in the early settlement of Quebec; but when population increased, those who would otherwise have lived within the walls, were obli- ged, for want of room, to reside without; and have formed what are called the suburbs of St. John, St. Rocque, &c. Since the conquest, improvements have gone on but slowly, owing to the fluctuating state of commerce ; from which source, alone, the means can be provided. Of late years, however, several r ii \ iivii r 70 NEW BUILDING. alterations have taken plate, in consequence of the extinction of the male reli«:;ious orders, whose houses and lands have devolved to the crown, and made room for the erection of new edifices. Some puhlic huildings have heen erected, but ex- cept the English church, with vcrj little taste, and even that is not yet complete, for it requires to be inclosed with an iron railing, instead of the old rotten wall which at present degrades the building. Several streets have been paved, and private houses erected upon more improved prin- ciples than those which before occupied their sites. There is yet room enongh, in different parts of the town, for many more houses, which will no doubt be erected as commerce and popu- lation increase. In speaking of the new buildings, I cannot avoid observing, that of all those which have disgraced the public taste, the circular building erected in the Upper Town market place, has disgraced it the most. This edifice, to which I have before alluded, is a kind of amphitheatre of itone^ surmounted by an immense dome or cu- pola of wooden frame work, covered on the out- side with planks. On the top is a sort of lan- thoruj or circular chamber, with planked roof. The sides of this lanthorn are glazed for the ad^ mittance of light into the interior^ but they have very little effect in such an extensive building. BUTCHER MNRKr.T. I The frame work inside the dome is iiii^cnioiis rnougli, and docs more credit to the artist who erected, than to those who ch'sij^ued, such aciiidc mass as the \vIioIc building prcstntH. The heaviness and dis]-rof)orli()u of its purls, may be easily conceived, wlicn it is known (hat the diameter of its base, and its perpendicular height, arc exactly the sanity being just one hun- dred feet cacli. At first siiihta sfran.'rer fancies t!i;it he beholds the grand amphitheiitre of the inhabitaiits of Quebec, where skilfid horsemanship or splendid spectacles, enliven the long evenings of a Cana- dian wint^ ; but how ffreat is his surprize when, on a closer inspection, he discovers that this vast edifice is neither more nor less than the butchers' shamble, a mere receptacle for beef, mutton, and pork. Not, indeed, that the elegance of the building itself, would lead him to think that it was unworthy such a fate ; on the contrary, he would decide in his own mind, ti^at the butchtrs are not much honoured by the structure, however they may be by the sum of money that has been expended for them. Before this edifice wjis erected, the butchers occupied small wooden stalls. These were very inconvenient^ very irregularly built, and much exposed to the weather. It was necessary that the meat stalls should be iecured against tlie \ n. id •i' t iii 3 1 I- 73 BUTCHER MARKET. heat in summer^ and the cold in >vinter. The new building has provided for the first of* these requi- sites, but the severity of the winter is felt at pre- sent in its greatest rigour. The light is admitted into the lower part, by a great numl er of windowsall round the huil.iing: these are not glazed, but have wooucn shutters, which slide up and down; consequently, when the light is admitted;, the wind, the s.iow, or the rain, finds a ready admittance with it. Each stall is placed against oo.e of these large windows, which renders the situation of the butchers, who are thus exposed to a thorough draft of air, extremely un- comfortable and even dangerous. Two or three have died since their removal to t le new building. I know not how far it might I ""ve accelerated their death, but the whole fratern y complain of its being detrimental to their he ih in the win- ter. They have occupied it two 'ears, from six o'clock in the morning till twelv at noon, with^ out a fire to warm it, or even a c*.. ment to keep the wind out : and this in a country where the thermometer is sometimes as low as 36 degrees below ! In short, this immense fabric, which ' has cost nearly six thousand pounds, and requires two thousand more to glaze the windows and co- ver the roof with tin, is not at all adapted for the ■very purpose for which it has been erected. It can only accommodsite about fifty butchers^ ari(} A t.: DANGEROUS EDIFICE. 73 'grees /hich the rest of the building is useless, except, per- haps, for a few people with baskets, who might sell their commodities in the centre. There is no apartment above, it is all open up to the top of the lanthorn. A great number of wooden pil- lars in the irlcrior, assist the outer wall in sup- porting the complicated mass of frame work which forms the dome. I understand that the butchers have made an offer, that if the magistrates who planned and superintended this elegant edifice would pull it down, they would build a more suitable and con- venient one at their own expense. Those sapient gentlemen were, however, too well pleased with their own work, to demolish it so quicklj, and refused the liberal ofler of the butchers. I should not be surprized, if the Governor was to cause it to be levelled with the ground, for a more dan- gerous building could not have been erected in a fortified town, and particularly in so small a square as the market-place. In the event of i's being on fire, which, unless it is covered with tin, may very shortly happen, no exertions whatever could save that part of the square to which its flames would be directed by the wind. The sol- diers barracks on one sidci the French cathedral and seminary on the opposite, and two rows of valuable retail stores, that form the other sides of the market place, are all in jeopardy while that -^ ii %i I*' ^< i li '!ii: If I ^ i I 1 ' 74 MAGI8TEHI\L FOLLY building remains. A shell from a bcsipguig army would instantly set it on fire, and it is an excel' lent object for that purpose. It is surprizing that the Canadian'governmcnt could suffer such a mass of combustible matter to be erected in the midst of numerous valuable buildings, and in the very heart of the town, when a small convenient row of stalls, similar to the markets in London, would have answered the purpose so much better, and might have been built for a twentieth part of the money. There is not an inhabitant in Quebec who does not view it with disgust, every time he passes it, except the three magistrates, who no doubt think they have immortalized themselves, by raising what they conceive to be a stupendous fabric of human wis- dom, but which in the eyes of their fellow citi- zens is only a stupendous fabric of Magisterial follij and extravagance. The other parts of the market place, are oc- cupied from five o'clock in the morning till twelve, by the Habitans (country people) who bring the productions of their farms to market in carts during the summer, and in sleighs in the winter. They generally bring their wives and daughters with them, who often remain ex- posed all the morning to the piercing cold of winter, or the burning sun of summer, disposing of their provisioDs^ while their husbands or Mhers hii ?i'f IIVUKET-PLACE. n:^ are^cttini^ drunk in the spirit sliop;; and taverns. The carts with ha)' and wood arc stationed by thenisolvs a, near tlic barracks. The rest with meat, fruit, vegetables, &c., occupy Ihc other parts of the niarket-plarc. Here the groups of country people who present themselves to view with their little stork of provisions^ tlieir singular mode of dress, their language and behaviour, ft)rm a novel and curious sight to a person unac- customed to the country. The markets arc supplied with beef, mutton, pork, and veal, by the Ilabitans, as well as the butchers; though the latter generally feed their own cattle, and kill them for sale as they want. Their meat is frequently better than that of the country people. The fattest pork tliat can be procured is bought by the lower order of the Ca- nadians, who scarcely cat any other meat. The Ilabitans, in particular, live for months upon pork; a small piece of which, boiled down with some peas or beans into a soup, constitutes their chief dish. The veal sold by the Ilabitans is in general very young, as red as beef, and docs not eat well. During Lent, the French people live upon fish and vegetables, which they contrive to dress in the most palatable manner. The day after Good Friday, the butchers make a shew of their meat^ somewhat similar to our butchers before lii i li'.^ 76 PRICE OF PROVISIONS. ' f I Christmas. The former decorate their meat -with flowers and ribbons in order to tempt their customers^ though one would think that but little inducement was necessary to invite them to eat after so long a fast. The Catholics^ at the close of Lent^ Lave a regale, and the butchers do not neglect to take advantage of that propitious moment. The finest quarters and joints are ticketed with the names of those happy people, who are alert enough to rise at three or four o' clock in the morning and get to market before their neighbours. The dogs in little carts, which are mentioned by Mr. Weld and former writers, are now not much in use, except by boys; every thing is brought to market in carts, or sleighs, drawn by horses. The markets of Quebec are well sup- plied with every thing the country afibrds. In summer the following articles are brought to market by the Habitans and generally' sold at the price affixed to them. Sterling money. Beef per lb. \^d. to 4d. Mutton per lb. 4rf. to Gd, ; per sheep 8s. to 10.V. Meat •<[ Lamb per quarter 3s. 6d. to 4.s. 6d, Veal 6d. to 7d. per lb. Pork bd. to 6d. per lb. Sausages I PRICE OF PROVISIONS. "Turkies per couple 3«. 6d. to 5s. 77 Poultry and Game. I s. 3d. to 2s. 7J. to lOd. Ss. 6d. to 4«. 6d. lOd. to 15rf. Fish Vege- tables Of rarious prices, according to the size. At some periods Cod and sal- mon are as dear as in London. Fowls do. Chickens do. Geese do. Wild do. do. Partridges do. Pidgeons per doz. Is. dd. to 4«. llares each 6d. to 9d. 'Eels^ price according to the size^ Trout do. Perch do. Poisson Doree do. Maskinonge do. I Shad each id. to 2d. -^ Sturgeon "^ I Achigan Black bass Salmon ^ Fresh Cod Salt Cod CatBsh "Potatoes 18^. to 20d. per bushel Cabbages Id. to 2d. each Onions per hundred \0d. Leeks per bundle 4:d. Carrots but very little cheaper than in London. Turnips do. Peas do. Beans do. Beet do. Celery do. Sal lad do. ^ Asparagus per bundle Cotonnier do. I Parsnips LBoiled CorOj Herbs, &c. \\ ill'; 1 , lie i < 78 FROZEN PROVISIONS. K ' I*. V 'A Fruit \ Sun- dries 2d. to Sd. per lb. 18s. to 25.S. 6d. to 9d. per lb. 9d. to lOr' do. do. do. "Applf'p 18s. per barrel Pears but few at market Strawberries about Od, per quart Currants Gooseberries Raspberries Blueberries Blackberries Plums Melons f Maple sugar f'lour per cwt L;ird Tallow . . . Tobacco 9d. . Butter . . 9r/. to \^d. J Oats per niinot 2s. 6d. to 3s. Hay per bundle Gd. to 7c?. Straw per do. 2d. to Jd. Wood per cord \2s. to 15s. Stinking Cheese, Soap, Mogasins, Furs &c. In winter a portion only of the above articles are brought to market. As soon as tlie river between Quebec and the Island of Orleans is frozen over, a large supply of provisions is re- ceived from that island. The Canadians at the comiciencement of winter kill the greatest part of their stock, which they carry to market in a frozen state. The inhabitants of the towns then supply themselves with a sufficient quantity of poultry and vegetables till spring, and keep them in garrets or cellars. As long as they remain frozen^ they preserve their goodness^ but they >;J FROZEN PROVISIONS. 70 will not keep long after tliey have thawed. I have eat turkies in April which have hcen kept in this manner all the winter^ and found them re- markably good. Before the frozen provisions are dressed, they are always laid for some hours in cold water, which extracts the ice ; otherwise, by a sudden immersion in hot water, tliey would be spoiled. The articles of life are certainly very reasonable in Canada, but the high price of house rent and European goods, together with the high wages of servants, more than counterbalance that advan- tage. A person must pay at least 70 or 100 per cent, upon the London price, for every article of wearing apparel, furniture, &c., unless he attends the public sales which are pretty frequent, and where articles are sometimes sold very low; but there he is often liable to be deceived, and many a keen economist has been confoundedly bit. The Lower Town marketplace is reckoned cheaper than the other. It is not so large, but is generally well supplied. Fish is at certain sea- sons abundant, particularly salmon and shad ; the latter is classed among the herrings, which it somewhat resembles in flavour, though widely difiering in size, the shad being as large as a moderate sized salmon. They are a great relief to the poor people in the months of May and June, as at that season they are taken in shoals in M m 'r i 'I \\w\ ••f m TOMMY CODS. the river of St. Lawrence from the entrance, to more than tvvo hundred miles above Quebec : large quantities are salted down for the use of the upper province. Fresh cod are very rarely brought to market. A merchant in the Upper Town usually gets a supply once during the sum- mer season, which he keeps in an ice-house and re- tails to the inhabitants at nearly the London price. Montreal receives a supply from the United States during the winter season ; they arc packed up in ice, and a few of them find their way to Quebec. The maskinonge is a fish of the pike-species, with a long hooked-snout projecting over the mouth. It is caught in the small river of Maski- nonge about one hundred and thirty miles abovo Quebec. Trout, perch, and other .small fish arc plentiful. The sturgeon, the basse, the achigan, and a large species of eel are all favourite fish with the Canadians; but the \i'\ckevc\, or poissoji dorec, is reckoned the best that comes to market. It is a small fish seldom exceeding the size of a haddock, which I thiiik it much resembles in flavour. In speaking of the fish I must not omit a curious species, about the size and appearance of large smelts, but far inferior to them in quality. They are called, by the inhabitants tommy cods and are caught in the St. Lawrence, durins: the winter season, in litth^ hiile§ svhich "» » iawc- ' oja!iajiiM.jniuiMuia'>«w ' !wiiaBt FISH. 81 are made in the ice. Small huts arc erected over these holes, and in them the Canadians fish for tlie tommy cods with hooks and lines. Tlioy generally ohtain enoiii;h to reward them for their tronhle. Many sit up all night at this work; for it is found that the fish hite hetter at that time than in the day. Great quantities are brought to market, and are very serviceable during Lent. In many places up the river, where they arc taken in great abundance, and no sufficient sale .is found, the country people feed their cattle with them. The eels of this country are all large, and by no meansinviting to a refined taste. They have a strong rancid flavor, and contain a great deal of oil. Considering the vast quantities of fish, with which the river and gulf of St. Lawrence abound, I think the markets in Canada are very ill sup- plied. Though the gulf is full of mackerel yet none ever appear at Quebec. Oysters are some- times brought from Chalcur Bay, but so seldom, and in such small quantities, that an oyster party is considered by the inhabitants as a very rare treat. They are, however, but of an indifferent quality; and though of large size when taken out of the shell, yet have so little substance in them, that, when cut with a knife, the water runs out, and they diminish at least a fourth. The shells are large, and adhere \\ 1 r1 f .. -H/' M VOL. I. G 4 ]i 82 A MAHRET SCENK. f T I)! ? t I'M' IH il to each other in great clusters. The herrings of C'anada arc huge, but of indifferent quality. Sprats there are none ; at least none ever appear on shore. In the spring, the markets are abundantly sup- plied with wild pigeons, which are sometimes sold much lower than the price I have mentioned; this happens in plentiful seasons ; but the im- mense flocks that formerly passed over the coun- try, are now considerably diniinisiied ; or as the hand becomes cleared I hoy retire farther back. The beef of Canada is in general poor, and tough ealing. The Canadians have not got into a proper melhod of fattening their cattle, which arc for the most part lean and ill fed. The bulchcis however contrive to furnish a better sort, which they fatten on their own farms. The \cal is killed too young to please an English taste, and the pork is overgrown. Mutton and Iamb are very good, and the latter, on its firnt coming in, is sold at a price which would not dis'yrace a London market. The ilabiiau!^ scii tlunr meat by the quarler, halt', or whole ^aseiiee, which ac- counts for the (liilerent prices J have aiiixed to those arlicles. The butchers refail iheni by the pound. It is curious in winter time to see the stilF head- less carcases of the sheep, stuck upon their hind legs in diifereut parts of the iijUiiket phice. if A MARKET SCRNK 8J is also highly amusiiif^ to behold the various groups of people, ot'alldeseriptious, that surround the Ilahitans; looking over, and serambling fur meat, j)oul(ry, and vegetables. Here may be seen men, women, and ciiildren ; masters, mistresses and servants ; judges and members of the coun- cil; colonels, captains, and private soldiers; all promiscuously huddhnl together round the Habi- tant's cart, his basket, or his sack. One with a couple of turkies in his liand ; another with a goose ; a third snatching it out of her hand, ex- claiming "that's my goose ma'am;" a fourth smelling at a brace of partridges; a fifth throw- ingthe fellow's potatoes, cabbages, onions, apples/ &c. into a little basket which she carries on her arm ; a sixth moving off with a stinJcing cheese in his pocket; a seventh putting a muttoncarcasc under his arm, and bawling to the Habitant to take his money for it. In the midst of all this crowd stands the poor fellow, telling the price of half a dozen different things in a breath, taking themoney of some, and refusing it of others. Yet it very seldom happens that he loses any of his articles, or suffers himself to be cheated. An anecdote is however told of a soldier, a few years ago, who stole a mutton carcase from one of the Habitans and carried it into the adjoining barracks. The countryman got information o. itj and applied to the officer on duty, for leave to q2 \', .1 :i. »» 4 I -I (1 I II ^ ' 'i i :f ,< 1 t < 'll ' ^11 JiV scai'cli (he biHTiu Iv rooms lor his mutfon. 'Vhc of" ru'crju'('oi(liniiIv;iccoin|)ani('(lhim,an(l sii'lrrpMiiiif Hiroiij;li s<«>< r.il of flio ii|>iuiin(nl.s tliry cainc into tUM^ wlirn* hvo or lluic \\onini Nvere rrviiii;* aiul !>Touiiin^ luinciiliihlv over a (I(m(I hociv, sirrtrlicd out oiHlic l)c(I and co\(M'(>(i ulHia slicrf. Tlu: oHiccr asked \vlu» >vas dead ? " Ah, plase your ]i(Miur,it'.s poor IMuhooncy, Nvho died siiddcidy Avifh iUc priprs (his morkiiua;." TIm! llahituiif. ho\u'vcr, hcj^an to tiuspcct thai |)oor Mnhooiiey iniglii he no other (han his inulion, and iliere- fore requested to see tlu; eorpse. The otlieer was upon the point ol* eoniplyiu^ with his wishes, >vhen the NMUueu inunediately set up tlic Irish liowl, shrieking' and tearing* tluMr liair most pi- tcouslv, and (alliui>: ^n l'>t* bodv, declared that thev never would sufl'er poor de:\r Mulrooney t() be taken lor tlie earease ofa slieep, and would serateh the Frenchman's eyes out lor wishing* to dii^turb the dead. Thoy were/just j»«)ing to put their threats in execution, when the country- man, ahu'med for his safety, and frightened at their bowlings, iiimiediately took to liis heels and ran out of the barracks, tliough not without strong suspicions that Mulrooncy's body was neither more nor less than' his mutton. The fact was afterwards discovered ; and, I believe, some remuneration was made the man for the loss of his sheep. V ■r •nil", n MinMNT oi T\\ inij). 85 io Aiitin:iii. ilcwiMit to tli(MM)(inlrviiiaii uiid H:^Koil \vli;it lie had ^ol in his l)a;j; P 'VUv. mail ans\\(rrd. " a |>iu;;" ii(i'>ii which llic KoUlicr Aaid h(; rouKI iiol tell wh<'(hrr it woiihi siiil liis iiiashT, hill W(»iiid inkr, (h. pi«!; for him to looL u(, and leave a dollar (ill Ik* came ha<-L lie ac- cordingly took the pi^' into i\c barrack'^, and rc- tiirnrd (o (In; man ubont live miiuiles uf'tei', sa}'in<>; (hat he was sorry Ihe [lii;' did not suit his master, and rreeived his dollar back aj^aiu. The imsuspeetiim; countryman placed liis hao^ n:^aiii in the cariamoni^st his other arlicles: preiiently an old gendeman, a member of the house of assem- bly came up, and bej^an to overiiaul tin; pro- visions in (he cart. " \\ hat have you in the bag, tlu;re?" s:iid (he old ijjentleinan. " \ pijj^. Sir.'' "Ah! ah! ht me h)ok at it." The Habitant laid hold of the haii; and the old gentleman opened the mouth of it to examine the pig, when a large ioni. cat instantly sprung up in his face and made oil' with all speed for the barracks, leaving the member of the house of assembly and the Habitant in the utmost consternation. Among the articles brought to market is one of a peculiar description called stinking cheese, which, from the richness of its flavour, is worthy of a place at any of our city feasts, ft only re- t'l f ( 1,.' 1 I i'f I rf V '¥ ■^ fe'i J ;! 86 MAPLE SUGAR. quires to be known, in order to be sou^^bt after by all the lovers of bighly flavoured dainties; by all who can feast upon venison and wild fowl in a state of putridity ; for this cheese exactly resem- bles those epicurean delicacies in the odour which it exhales. It is a kind of new cheese made into small flat cakes ; but to reduce it to a rich pala- table state, the country people wrap it up in wet hay or straw and place it under a (hni^ldll, where after it has laid a suflicieiit time to putiify, it is taken cut and carried to market for sale. I have freOjUently, on passing these cheeses, been obliged to hok'i my nose; yet g&nllemen reckon them a great delicacy, and put two or three with the wet musty hay into their pockets! The best butter is brought from Green Island, about one hundred and fifty miles below Quebec. That sold by • • • • y CANADIAN CURRENCY. Dzvti. Grs. L. J' 17 ... 3 U 89 J 4 4" 1 2 IS s 3 Pistole piece French Louis d'or, coined ^ before 1793 S French Pistole, coined > before the same period) When weighed in bulk, the rate is currency, 41. ^s. ?>\d, per oz. Troy j and in the same proportion for all the higher and lower denominations of the said gold coins. For every grain which Ihc British, Portugal, and American coins weigh more than the standard, there is to be allowed and added 2-^d, currency ; and for every grain less ^\cl. is to be deducted. And for every grain which the Spanish and French gold coins weigh more or less than the standard, there is to be an allowance qf 2\cl. currency. In every payment, exceeding the sum of twenty pounds, where one of the parties require it, gold is to be weighed in bulk, and pass at the above rates; and a deduction of half a grain Troy is to be made on every piece of coin so weighed, as a compensation to the receiver, for the loss he may sustain in paying away the same by the single piece. The silver coins are as follow : Canadian currency, L. s. d. Spanish Piaster, or Dollar . ...050 English Crown .... ...050 :!l W •"Mi" -I' .( i • 1* ^'^ •I :M]il 90 r! t CANADIAN CURRENCY, Z. French Crown, of C) livres toiirnois .056 French do. of 4 livrcs JOsolstournois 4 2 English shilling 1 1 French piece, of 24 sols tournois ..Oil L'Escalin, or Pistoreen 10 French piece, of 36 sols tournois ..018 The copper coin in circulation is English. The half-pence are called solshy the French and cop- pers by the British. To bring sterling money into Canadian currency, one-ninth must be added ; and to bring currency into sterling one- tenth must be deducted. f ii% s'f-i CrRlOUS JARGON. 91 CHAP. VI. Curious Jargon in the Market-place — Bon Tahac — An Anecdote of an Irishjnan and a Habitant '—•Moccasins — Swamp Boots — Strnxcherries — Raspberries — Fruit brought to Market — Vege- tables — Potatoes forvierlif looked upon as Poisonous by the French — Rows of Cabbages and Onions — Bread — Price Regulated by the Magistrates— Large Exportation of JVIieat — Colonel Caldwell — Breweries Established at Quebec — Hop Plantation at Silkrij — Settlement of the Algonqiiins — Emilij .Montague — Wines drank in Canada— Rum — Sugars — Qnfintiftj of Tea received from the United States — Tobacco —Salt-'^Trades and Professions, '!, A cuRiODs sort of jargon i» carried on in the market-place, between the French who do not understand Etialish, and the English who do not understand French. Each endeavours to meet the other halfway, in his own tongue, by which means they contrive to comprehend one another, by broken phrases, for the common French mar- keting terms are soon picked up. This inter- iii vl.h ' m . » 1' >(#' 1' m 'H I k: -i ri ■■■]■' A. if t it ill 'ill;*. l)'i BON TAHAr. course bciwocii tlu; French and English has oc- casioned tilt; IbrniLT to ina:raft nianv anHicisni^ in llicir lan<;'iiai»T, wliich lo a slraiigTr, arriving; from England, and spoakinpf only boanlinj^ school Trench, is at first rather puzzling- The Cana- dians have had the character of speaking the purest Frencii ; but I question >vhether they de- serve it at the present day. A laughable anecdote is relat(;d of an Irish- man and one of the llabitansj occasioned iather by a play upon words, than from any misunder- standing between the parties. An Irish soldier, one day, bought a large quan- tity of Canadian tobacpo ; and wisliing to dis- pose of a part of it, he divided it into smaller rolls, similar to those which are sold in the mar- ket, lie then posted himself in a crowded place and ofi'cred his tobacco for sale A Habitant came up, and taking one of the rolls into his hand, asked if it was " hon ialac." — :" Oh, by Jasus," says Pat, " you will find it bone enough.'' 1 pon which the Frenchman and the Irishman struck a bargain for it ; and the tobacco was sold at a very good profit. The next day, however, the liabitajit happening to espy Pat in the mar- ket- place, immediately accused him of cheating', jikid complained to an officer, who was passing' at the tinjc, oftlie Irishman's rogue: v, and produced the bargain which he had purchased. The Irisli- •e irrfi «: If'*' sb- MOCCASINS, n iiKiT! on hvMV^ in I 1 |{ Mil {tit ^ ' *^ '^ '' III • IV ''.'■. ) 1 I*' 1 1' ^1 1 1 li 1 w 'r ill || Iff 4;i' ,hr •iP'- i ',: 4'-' :'. • >f '» (!: If I'. • .•■■ ■*u; i 94 STRAWnKRRirs AND RASPBF.RKirS. lefatlicr, with moccasin fvvi, arc imicli worn by the Habitans, ami a.c also worn over others, as swamp boots by those who arc fond of shooting. The Iriiit of Cana(hi is not rcmarkabk; cither for ;;oodncss or cheapness, except strawberries and raspberries, wluch are brouglit to market, in great abimdance, during the season. They arc gatlicred on the plains at the back of Quebec, and in the neighbouring woods, w here they grow upon the ground, or arnongthe shrubs in wikl lux- uriance. The poor Canadians send their chil- dren to gatlicrthem, and afterwards sell them to the inhabitants, at a Uiodcrate price. It is an agreeable sight to view the [loUls covered with strawberries, in blossom, or ripe ; and few per- sons keep them in gardens. The raspberry bushes arc intermingled with the underwood of the forests, and alford an agreeable treat to those ■who are fond of rambling in the woods. That pleasure is, however, more than counterbalanced by the musquitos, and saud flies, who never fail, for three or four months in the summer, to annoy those who venture to penetrate their abode. Apples and pears are procured from Montreal, where they grow in more abundance, and in greater peri'cction, than in any other part of Lower Canada. They are sold for much the same price as in England. The apple, wtiiih is most prized, is what they call the "' poitiuic gris/' d FRUIT. 95 by isr a small light brown a])plej somewhat resembling the russctiii in appearance. Many persons say that it is superior to any English apple, but I never could agree with them in that particular. In my opinion, it is not equal to many of our a])ples, and cannot be compared with the non- pareil, an apple which is unknown in Canada. Several species of wild apples and pears are found in the woods, but they are of inferior quality to those cultivated in tlio gardens and orchards. Thegra[)es brought to market are mostly of the wild spjcles, which are gathered in the woods, or from vines that have been planted near the houses. Little care has been taken to improve the latter, so that very trifling alteration is discernible. They are scarcely larger than currants, but when ripe have a pleasant flavor, though rather sharp and pungent. There are a few European vines cultivated in the gardens, but the grapes are sel- dom to be purchased. Oranges and lemons are imported from England, and are always extremely scarce; for the damage which they sustain on the voyage, renders them a very un profitable article for sale. They fre- quently sell (particularly oranges) at one or two shillings each. The lemons, which generally keep better, are sometimes as low as sixpence, but they are often not to be purchased at any price. Gooseberries, blackber^^ies, and blueberries, are , ■( !i';i I;. imt: ':!: 4' •y in ' I \.-«' i ) i*li« 'fill -^f 'h' ".ri ! 1. / ' i liiilil 9o FIlliIT. in jz,Tcat al)midancc, and jii^iow wild in the woods*. Those cijltivated in i»ardens are much superior, Curranis came (>i*ip;inally from Europe, and arc to he found only in gardens; there is, of course, hut a scaiitv «npply of thcin at market. Phuns are plentiful in the market ; they are of the wild species, though often introduced into gardens. They are generally of two sorts, the white and hlack, and resemhle the most common of our plums. ^Valnuts and filherts are hy no means common in Canada, and are procured principally by im- portation from England. Ilickofy and hazel nuts are met with in the forests. Tho English walnut trees do not thrive well in Canada; and it has been remarked by naturalists, that the European trees were always more forward in their leaves and flowers, than the native trees of America ; in consequence of which they were very often blighted, hy the cold nights, which are fre- c]ue!)t in the early part of the spring ; while the American trees, which did not leaf or flower so soon, were generally preserved. Many days of an American spring are often hotter than Eng- lish summers ; consequently, our trees feeling a certain degree of warmth so early, and which in tlicir own countrv brin&s them to maturitv, are not prepared for the sudden changes to which the American climate is liable. The English FRUIT. 97 -ery fre- the so of \0'' in I are icli llisb walnut ivcc, sccnis paitlc iihirly Riihject fo Hic variab]encs«, and severity of (liat cliuiatc. Even ill the more sonlliern ]Kirts of North America, it has been repeatedly killed by the frost. There is a F])eeles of black walnut-tree, ji native of the country, the fiuitof which is called, by the in- habitants, bultcr-nuls; they are, however, very inferior to the Eiia,lish walnut. The iidiabitants pickle them in tli(^ same ir.annerj as we do the hitter, but they do not possess their flavor. Cherries are seldom seen in the markets ; they arc the production only of {i;entlcmcn's gardens. Two sorts of wild cherries are plentifully scat- tered over tlie country. They are, probably, mere varieties^ though they difl'er materially iu flavor. Tliey are called choke cherries by the inhabitants, and seldom applied to any other purpose than the making of liqueur. The ber- ries with their stones arc bruised, and put into bottles of rum, brandy, or gin, with sugar, and, in the course of a fortnight, they make a very agreeable liqueur, resembling lioyau. Melons of various kinds are cultivated in great plenty in Canada. The wat<^r and musk melon are most general. They do not thrive so well about Quebec, as at Tlirce Rivers and Montreal. Tiu V ;.Lr> sowM frequently on hot-beds, but oftener in the (i[)en iiekis and gardens, and the sunniier hrat is sijfticicnt to ripen them without the aid VOL. I. H m '%,i • 1 *lii ^ ' in : ••:; 4^ 98 VI.CETAHrr<<. 1 M ^11 I; :> ii . 1/ iji ofj^Ianscs. A species of yellow fly is often very de tr'.ictive to flit- earlv plaiifs, and sometimes totally (JrstrovR tliem. 'I'lic Indians are as partial to melons as tlic l^'rench Canadians. It i:, liow- ever, a subject of disputation, whether tli;i1 fruit is a native of the eountrv, or ^as introdu(e f labitan-!. The latter partieularly are .<;reat favourites with them, and Willi a little salt, and piece of bread, the cucumber often constitutes the dinner of the poorer class. Ve^^etables of every description thrive well in Can-. au, and are in tolerable abundance at the markets.. Those most in request by the r^rencli Canadians, are o.iions, Iciksj peas, beans, cab- bages, ii-i.a potatoes. The latter vegetable is now c'.iitivatcd in large quantities all over Canada, but was scarcely known in the country before the conquest. The English settlers could not remain long without their favourite roof, and soon commenced planting it. The French, who before that time declared they could find no relish in that vegetable, no sooner found that a good market was to be obtained for it, than they immediately followed their example/and bv de- grees came to relish what they ha«■ *r TEAS. lO.J bv )VCy ill V- leir spirits arc very little better tliaii tlicir wines. Brandy and hollands are not worth noticing*, ex- cept that the former is most execrable Spanish, and sells ibr ten sbillin«};s per gaUon. Their rum is new and of a very indifferent quality, yet it is drank the most of any other liquor. GUI rum in unknown. In the year 1 S07, .';S0 J 30 gallons were imported from Great Britain and her colo- nies, and were retailed at five shillings and six- pence })er j^allon. An article has only to be cheap, to recommend it for sale in Canada ; it is of little consequence what its qualities may be, if it is high priced ; as in that case it will never answer for a Canadian market ; that is, it will never brin.^^' the merchants fifty or one hundred per cent. lie fined and coarse sugars are reasonable. Loaf sugar is frequently to be bought at nine- pence, and moist sugar at fourpencc per lb. Teas are high, considering there is no duty upon them. Nearly the whole of the tea drank in Canat!:i is green, and is retailed from five to ten shillings per lb. The best Hyson is sometimes twelve or fourteen. Souchong tea, so much used in Eng- land, is scarcely known : execrable bohea sells from two shillings to three and sixpence. Teas are brought in large quantities from the United States. In 1SC7 the importation of that article was 42,000 lbs., while the importation from Eng- land was only 4,5(0 Ib^. This is occasioned by *j 'X^' m 105 TOBACCO. (• * I'li 'I fll ^■■(■! llicir procuring teas cheaper from the United Sy81bs. of coflTee from Great Rri- lainandlicr colonies, andSjC/O lbs. chocolate from ihe Ignited States, where manufactories of it arc established. Both these articles are of inferior quality, and are retailed upon an average at tv\6 shillings per lb. Manufactories of soap and candles, arc esta- blished at Quebec, a;»d those articles are sold, nearly at the same price as in London ; if any thing, rather higher. The country- people make tlieir own soap and candles. English cheese, in consequence of the loss fre- quently sustained on the voyage, bears a higli price; and the small quantity whicli arrives safe, sells at ts>o sliillings, and two shillings and six- pv'iue per lb. The deficiency is supplied by Anieri( an cheese, someof \-\hich is tolerably good, b'it the greatest part is little better than our Suf- folk cheese. It is imported in considerable quantities from the Slates, and is retailed from KJxpcuce to ninepence per lb. In 1807, 37,lb8 lbs. were brought into Canada. - Tobacco, notwitlistanding it is cultivated by almost e^ery farmer in Canada,, }et is imported in SALT. 107 large quautiticsbotli fiomEng'knd and theUiiiled States. In 1807, the following quantity was im- poi'tcd from those countries. From Great Britain and her colonics. Leaf Tobacco . . 151,578 lbs. Manufactured do. . . 1,145 lbs. \rj2,n3 From the United States, Leaf Tobacco . . . 120,747 lbs. Manufactured do. . . 51,082 lbs. Snuff 10,058 lbs. 187,88: € Difference in favor of the United States 35, 164 Thus it appears, that the United States have the advantage of Great Britain in the exporta- tion of manufactured tobacco and snuff, to the amount of-65,y95 lbs., and upon the whole article of tobacco to the amount of 35, 1 64 lbs. Leaf to- bacco sells from 9d. to is., ?ind the manufactured from I8r/. to 2s. Salt is procured chiefly from Liverpool. In 1807, upwards of 220,000 bushels were imported. The preceding winter there was a great scarcity of that article; and the last ship which arrived, with it, sold her cargo at 7s. 6cl. per bushel. At one time during the winter it wa§ as high as 12s. and 145. ; but the next spring* it fell to 3s. Od. •> . ii^ i^- ■ ,«y !l» I ■ i "'■■■ H'^. ) ■' I »■ ^ i 1 ■ 'i lOS TRADES AND PROFESSIONS. (• which is generally the price at which it is retailed. Ships from Liverpool arc most commonly bal- lasted with salt; and during the season of their arrival at Quebec, some of the merchants pur- chase it from 15r/. to 2{)d. per bushel, and mono- polize it until the season is over, when no more supplies can be procured till the following spring. A considerable quantity is annually exported to the United States. The Vcrmontese, on the conlincs of Canada, depend wholly on that coun- try for their supply of salt, as they procure it much cheaper than from the sea-port towns in the New England states. These people salt large quantities of beef, pork, and butter ; a great part of which they export to Canada. More thau 250,000 lbs. were received in 1807 from the United States, Trades and professions, though not so nume- rous in Quebec and the other towns of Canada, as in those of England, or even the United States, yet are much more so than is generally known ; and there arc few articles requisite for use in that country but what may be easily procured. There are saddlers, blacksmiths, carpenters, mill- wrights, potters, brewers, distillers, whecl-wri «:;,'] its^ calash and cariole-builders, boat-builders, ship- builders, tanners, cabinet-makers, house-p;i inters, bakers, taylors, tinmen, hatters, shoe-makers and sail-makers, block and mast-makers, bail'Ms and l> ¥ 1 TRADES AND PROFESSIONS. 109 perfumers, auctioneers and brokers, spruce-beer merchants, a hop-planter, a dancin2;-master, a few school-masters, and two music- masters ; be- sides a quantum suflicit of physicians, surgeons, and practitioners in pharmacy ; one of whom, who resides at Quebec, has, '' one of the neatest and best provided shops for the three branches, in the province." There is no paucity of store- keepers and merchants ; neither is there any lack of bishops, priests and curates, judges, advocates, notaries and magistrates, military men and tavern- keepers. >« , *• ?, HO CLIMATE or LOWER CAVAFiA. CHAPTER VIT. , ♦« ■'','» , !• .ir Climate of Lower Cniada — Sevcrih/ of the Cold—' .Drifting of the Snow in the Streets up to the Garret Windows — Frozen Channel — Passage over the Broheji Masses of Ice — Canocf. — "Noise of the Floating Icc-^ Travelling in Win- ter — W^arm Clothing — Frost-bitten Cheeks^^ Clear Skij-'-'Sup}X)sed alteration in the Cli- mate — Journals of the Weallicr in 1745 aud 1807 — Canadian Exaggeration — 'Use of Stoves Open Fire-places— Observations upon the Change of Climate — Longevity in Canada — Breaking vp of the Tee — Arrival of tlic First Vessel — .Progress of J7getation — Wet Motrths — Thun- der and Lightning — Severe Storm, at Quebec — State of the Thermometer — Plagues of Ca- nada — Scorching Summers — Agreeable Au- tumns. The cliciate of Lower Canada is liable to vio- Vwi extremes of Iieat and cold ; the thermoiiieler is sonietiines up to 103' of FrJirenlicit in summer^ and in winter .S6 degrees below 0. These ex- tremes do not^ liowever^ last above two or tlncc SEVKaiTY OF Tlir COLD. HI days at a time. The average of suniiiicr lieut is, in ji;cneiii], from 7.') to SO degrees, and llic inoau of the cold ill winter about 0. During* th;^ ton months I remained iu Quebec, from Novendx'r ISOf) to Augubt ISUT, I puid particular attention to the weather. \> e arrived at the latter end oi' October, at which time tliere was a very sharp frost, but no snow had laHeu. During: the early part of November, the weather was at times very mild, with frecjuent rain aiul snow; the latter, however, never settled till the last week in that month, when scarce a day passed >vithout a heavy fall of snow, sleet, or had, which rendered this period extremely unpleasant, and generally confined us to the house. When business obliged mo to go out, I found the severity of the weather was excessive. The sleet and snow frequently froze as it beat in my face, and almost prevented me from walking along. Large bodies of snow drifted in the streets, in several places above the height of a man, and frequently rendered the passage impassable. In the narrow streets, the snow reached up to the garret w indows of the small houses ; but, by the exertions of the inhabitants, was kept in the mid- dle of the street, so as to leave a narrow passage between their houses, and the high mound of gnow. Tiii^ weather continued till about the middle 13 \ I 112 rnOZKN ( IIANNLL. i ' M of December, wlnii (lie clouds (lisj)crs(Ml, ;unl (lie rt)iii;li boisterous snow storms Merc succeeded by a liue, clear, frost v air. Tlic slvv became serene, and assume/! a ljri«;lit azure bue, ubicb, witb lit- tle alteratitm, lasted (ill tlie monlli of JMarcb. Tbe lust ship sniled from (Quebec on tlie jtli December, atwiiicb eaii|)ort, Point Levi, and Quebec, i^enerally block up the north channel about the iirstweek in January, and open a communication between the inhabitants of the island and Quebec. Tins bridge of ice is always anxiously looked for by both parties ; the one to sell, and the other io buy the large stock of provisions which the islanders prepare for market at the commence- ment of winter. The people of Orleans, besides the advantage of a more fruitful soil, are reckoned better farmers than their neighbours ; their provisions are there- fore more prized than those of the other Habitans. Another part of the river between Quebec and the opposite shore of Point Levi, is sometimes, though very rarely, frozen over. This is occa- sioned more by accident, than the severity of the weather, and happened only for a few hours one day, during my residence in Canada. The Ca- nadians call this the pojit or bridge, as it aQbrds the inhabitants of the south shore, the same con- venience as the islanders enjoy, of carrying their VOL. I. I .1 .^ yn 141 CANOES. '.;f provisions to (he Quebec market, in sleiglif across the ice. As this so seldom occurs, thej cannot, of course, often enjoy that convenience; but it only serves to stimulate tlieni to greater ex- ertions, and it is wonderful to sec with what dex- terity they brin^' over their provisions in canoci: across the large bodies of floating ice. Eight or ten men, accompanied frequently hy two or three women, with a canoe laden with meat and vegetables, seize a favourable moment when the tide is slack, and paddle from the shore to the nearest mass of ice ; there they disembark, haul the canoe across, and launch it in the largest space of water adjoining. When all are em- barked, they paddle to the next floating body of ice, and disembarking again, drag their canoe to the opposite side, where they once more reimbark, and pursue the same course, perhaps, over a dozen other pieces of ice, and intermediate spaces of water, until they arrive at Quebec, where they dispose of their provisions, and return at the next slack tide in the same manner. The canoes are hollowed out of the trunks of large elm trees. The larger sort are made of two trees, properly shaped and hollowed, and secured tog'ither in the centre. The seam is caulked and pitched, and the bottom and sides strengthened with thwarts. They are capable of carrying up- wards of a dozen people, besides large stocks of provisions. The French Canadians never make ■•I ' , TRAVELLING IN WINTER. iif; |., 1^- lelgli? they icncc; er ex- t (lex- canoct lily ^y 1 wiili lomcnt c shore mbark, largest re em- bod V of v anoe to mbark, over a spaces re they be next unks of of two secured Led and ^thened lingup- locks of ;r make \\ie of any other than these \voo(len canoes. The Indians, use canoes, of bark taken from the birch tree. They are extremely light, and very liable to be upset, and perforated, by persons unac- quainted with the management of them. The ice floalliig up and down opposite Que- bec, creates a hollow crashing noise in its progress, extremely well-suited to, and in unison with, the gloomy splendour of the scene. This continues till the latter end of April, when the ice disap- pears as suddenly as it came. After the ice from Lake St. Peter bus passed, it is gone in the course of a night. Not a vestige remains. When the snow ceases to fall, about the last week in December, it then hardens into a solid body, and horses, sleighs, and carioles, pass over it with great facility. But as the snow only thinly covers the elevated parts of the ground over which it drives, and settles in hollows and declivities to a great depth, as well as drifting into heaps at every little obstacle in its way ; the people at the commencement of winter, level all their fences on the road side, with the ground, except the standard posts, into which the rails are again put, in the spring. The snow has thus, a free passage between, and lies even upon the ground. If it was not for this precaution, the roads would be intolerably bad, and perhaps, im- passable. The fields and roads covered with th» snow, present a dreary and vacant scene to the 1% "• i'i I )« • ■!f|v ■'%} 'i: . 1 1 fi '/ ■ '■ ■ Ifli? !I f! ia 116 TRAVELLING IN WINTER. eye. The fences and rail posts are buried under- neatlij which obliges the inhabitants to stick up^ small branches of fir and pine in the snov/, in order to mark out the road, as one fall of snow in the night will obliterate the track of the carioles, and people might lose their way. These ever- gicciiSj at emial distances have a pleasant effect;^ and aObrd some relief to the white and mono- tonous appearance of the snowy plains. The cold at certain periods is excessive, and would be often dangcrousy if the people were not so well guarded against its cfl'ects by warm clothing. When travelling, they wrap them- selves up in buifalo robes, exclusive of the great coats, fur caps, mittens, and Shetland hose, which they wear whenever they go out of doors. The warmest clothing, indeed, is absolutely necessary, as they are exposed to the inclemency of the weather in open carioles or sleighs, and the situa- tion of the driver, who sits or stands up in front, is hy no means enviable. On some of the coldest days, when walking, I have found my English surtout sufUcient; but, when sitting in an open cariole, exposed to the keen and piercing wind, the severity of which was increased by the velo- city of the horse and \ehicle, a thick great coat with a lining of shamois leather, was not suffi- cient to keep warmth within me, without the aid of a large bufl'alo robe. These robes, as they are called by the Canadians, arc merely the hid«S' FROST RITTEN CHEEKS. 117 ^>f buffalos, which arc dressed, and lined with o-recn baize ; they arc very thick, and wiUi the ■h:iir on them^ eirectually, prevent the cold air from penetrating'. The j;r<';itest degree of cold experienced durinc; the winter I remained at Quebec, was on the 15th February, when the theraiometer fell SO decrees below 0. The preceding month it had been se- veral times as low as 15 and 18, and at one time 2() degrees below 0. The greatest degree of cold '.vhich I have heard of in Canada, was 'JG below 0. On the coldest days I have walked through the town, and with the wind at my back, suSercd very little inconvenience; but when I turned about, I found, as the keen air blew on my face, that my cheeks became numbed and insensible, and would most likely have been frost-bitten, had I not rubbed them briskly v/ith my hands, and restored the circulation of the blood. It is not uncommon on those severe days, for people to have their cheeks, nose, or ears, frost-bitten ; and often before they are aware of it. It is then dangerous to approach the fi.e hastily. The frost-bitten parts must be rubbed vvidi snow until the blood circulates, otJiervvise mortification would in all probability ensue. The winter, from Christmas to Lady-day, ii almost always remarkable for a fine, clear, azure sky, seldom obscured by fogs or clouds; and the dry frosty weather is rarely interrupted by falls * ■ *v V f % ■ ' {'< ."* w ', i w :-i >i, '%) M 11: ■ ^ , irihfc : I Ml; 1^ 118 ALTERATION OF CLIMATE. of snow, sleet, or rain. These advantages render a Canadian winter so agreeable and pleasant, that the inhabitants are never under the necessity of changing their dress, from any sudden alteration of the weather, unless it is to discard their great coats and fur caps, which is rendered necessary Boraetimes, by the powerful warmth of the sun, whose beams are scarcely ever intercepted by a single cloud. The aurora borealis is common in Canada, and frequently illuminates the winter evening with its playful light. On my return to Canada from the United States in May 1808^ I was informed that the pre- ceding winter had been unusually mild, the wea- ther open, and subject to frequent falls of snow and rain, so much so, that the inhabitants were repeatedly deprived of the pleasures of carioling. This remarkable exception to the general charac? ter of the Canadian winters, is a singular circum- stance, but it is no proof that the severity of the climate is abating. I shall offer a few observa- tions upon that subject. It is the general opinion of the inhabitants that the winters are milder, and that less snow falls now than formerly. That th& summers are also hotter. This might be easily accounted for, by the improved state of the country. The clearing of the woods, and cultivation of the lands, together with the increased popula- tion, must naturally have a considerable effect JOURNAL OF THi WEATHER. 119 upon the climate. The imincnse forests, which before interposed their thick foliage between the ?.un and the earth, and prevented the latter from receivinj^ that genial warmth which was neces- sary to qualify its rigorous atmosphere, are now considerably thinned, or entirely destroyed in va- rious parts of the country. The powerful rays of the sun now meet with little obstruction ; the cultivated soil imbibes its heat, and returns it again to the surrounding air in warm and humid vapours. Added to this, the exhalations arising from so many thousands of men and cattle, toge- ther with the burning of so many combustibles, must greatly contribute to soften the severity of the climate. Yet with all these truths, which amount nearly to a demonstration of the fact, and apparently substantiated by the opinion of the inhabitants, I do not find, upon reference to an old meteorological journal, that so great an. alteration has taken place, at least within the last sixty years, as the circumstances I have mentioned, would seem to iustifv. In this old journal for the year 1745, il is ob- served, that on the 29th January of that year, the river St. Lawrence near Quebec, was covci'ed with ice, but that in preceding years, it had fre- quently been covered in the beginning of ihixt month, or about the end of December. Nov/, during my stay at Quebec in 18Q6, the rivti' v a^ covered with ice by the^i^ri^ week in D^ceinlifr^ • » i' if;! ill l:i %l !l ,. J heir 120 JOURNAL OF THE WEATHER. ¥ 1 * and a sliipwas prevented from goin^to Europe. Thus the wintei' commenced at least three ivic/i\% sooner in 1806 than in 1715. In March, 1/45, the journal mentions, that it had hecn a ver;^ mild winiCM*, that thesrmw was only two feet deep, and the ice in the river, of the same tliickness. I.i ISOG the snow was upor\ an avenige, in the vicinity ofQsiehcc, at least four feet in depth, and the ice in the river more or less, as it accumulated in floatino- with Ihe tide. Many pieces wrrc from twelve to sixteen feet in depth, and others s«ti{l luoie. On the ^Oth April, 1745, the ice in tl.e river broke near Quebec, and went down. It is observed, however, in the journal, that it seldom liappened so so«f n, for thvJ river opposite Quebec was sometimes covL*red with ice on the lOth of May. On the '7tii April that year, the gar- deiiers had brs^an to make hot beds, and on the 25tli many of the farmers had began to sow their corn. In April, 1807, the ice began to break up about the third week. On the 2Sth, the ice from Lake St. Peter, above Three Rivers, came dov/n, a!,d crowded the river and shores in the neigh- buiuhood of Quebec, with large masses. In the liiidstof this, with the flood iidc, a vessel arrived a( Quebec from Liverpool, being the first of the seufeon. It was a very dangerous experiment, and excited the surprize of the inhabitants, who f il;c giir- ik up iVom ( , leigb- n tilt; rrivcd Iment, JOURNAL OF THK WEATHER. 121 said that such an early arrival w:is very uncom- mon. By the 3rd of May the ice was entirely gone. Strawberries were to be had at Quebec on t'lc '^2nd June, 1745. l?ut in I SOT we could not procure them till about tlie l.^)th or 20;ust, 1745, the harvest beii:an in the vicinity of Quebec. In 1807 and 1S08 it was above a week or ten days later, though ihe summer of the latter year was remarkably hot. An observation in the old journal, states, that the corn was never ripe in years preceding 1745 till about the 15th September ; and that corn seldom arrives at its proper maturity in Canada, except in very hot summers. The Habitans continued to plough in 1745 till the 10(h November. As lute as the 18th, the cattle went out of doors ; and on the 24th, there was no ice in the St. Lawrence. On the 1st December of the siune year, the journal mentions as remarkable, that a ship could set sail for France, the river being then so clear of ice ; that on the Kith, the river was covered with ice on both sides, but open in the middle, and on the 26th, the ice was all washed away by ■-■ •. .! 4 * 1 4k^ '■A- ■■ ■if ' \ i ':t <• (<^ 1 hi .'if ' 123 JOURNAL OF TIIE VTEATHRR. a heavy rain, but on the 28th, part of the river was again covered with it. Now, in the first week of December in ISOOand 1807, vessels were obliged to leave Quebec, on account of the vast bodies of floating ice with which the river was covered, and which con- tinued during those winters. From these statements it appears evident, that an improveinent in the climate of Canada, is ex- tremely doubtful. It has also been observed by lorne of the religious orders who were in the practice of keeping meteorological journals, that the winters half a century ago were as hard as in former years, though somewhat shorter, and the summers rather longer, but not hotter than they used to be. The winters sometimes differ so materially from each other, as well .is the summers, that no accu- rate estimate can be formed, sufficient to ascertain whether the changes that take place, are occa- sioned by any increase or diminution of the se- verity of the climate. It is possible that a very hot summer, by 'eating the soil beyond the usual depth, may occasion the mildness of the subse- quent winter. A.s to the statements of the in- habitants, they are influenced more by their own feelings, than by any accurate observation. They are also fond of exaggerating the rigour of their winters to strangers, and when I observed to CANADIAN EXAGCERATIOK. 13;^ several, that r.eitlier the cold nor the quantity of snow and ice, answered my expectations, they replied, that the winters were milder than for- merly: yet it appears that the winter oF 180G-7 was severer and longer^ than tliat of Vi^b-6. The Canadians, however, feel the cold more than Eiiropeuiis on their first arrival. The constant use of stoves renders them very little better than liot-house plants during winter, and in summer they are exposed to a burning sun. These things do not affect the European constitution for the first two or three vears, but afterwards, it becomes as sensihle to the heat and cold^ as that of the Canadians. It may astonish those who have heard such dreadful accounts of a Ca- nadian winter, when I assert it as a fact, that the people of Great Britain suffer more from the cold, than the people oi Canada ; or at least tiiey arc more exposed to it; for they seldom make any paterial alteration in their dress, eiti.er summer or winter ; and, with their open iirc places, they are burning on one side, and freezing on the other. This, however, hardens the constitution of an Englishman, while the stoves and warm clothing of Canada, which often heat the body beyond what the climate requires, weaken and dehilitate the frames of those who reside in that country. A proper attention, however, to heat and cold is all tliat is requisite, for an European Jo erjoy the most pi^rfcct health in Lower Ca- I 1' ^!i i ^1 4 I I 'I 1 '. A ill I "( 7 1 f ' ' •' If J *^< I h*;^ 1 124 LONGi:VlTV IN CANADA. riada. Tiv the same mode of life fhat he enjoys lieallh in J^nglanilj he may live to a j^'ood old ».'j;c it) Canada. Duiini^- iny s< jy in Canada, 1 was careful in notiniv those pcri(»d- at which the winter began and Hnishetij an.l also tlinse circumstance;* at ])C!.rti(:;ilar seasniif;, wliich denote th*' mildness or severity of the weather. I h;ive not judged of thcclindate merely bv my own feeiiiuis, as to heat and cold, because such conclusions muet he in- correct, when applied to the feelings of others, whose constitutions and temperaments, may be totally difierent from mine. I liavc stated facts which came immediately under my ow n observa- tion, and by comparing them with the observa- tions of others, who had attended minutely to the subject, the reader will be better able to form a correct judg'ment for himself, as to the ameliora- tion of climate, which is generally supposed to have taken place in Canada. It is an interesting question, because it involves the truth of that iniiversally received opinion, that the clearing* ar.d cultivation of lands, cflect a verv considera- ble ininrovement in the climate. Were I to form an opinion on tlu; gubject, it would be, that the iuMiiiig and cidtivaiion of land in Canada, has occ.'isioned a ce»taiii de<>:ree of alteration in the ciinuite, without improving it. That the win- ters are an cold, and the summers as hot as they were bcibrc the settlement of the cciuitrVj but BREAKING UP OF THE ICE. iri lliat the weather is more variable and inconstatit. riic coimtry, however, is yet new, and the eiilti- vated parts ])ear but a small pro port ion to the lin- Hiense wildernesses that yd exist, li is too niiieh, therefore, to expect that any very important change can have taken place in the climate of that coimtry. The montlis of March and April, are in ge- neral very hot, and the sun then hei:,in8 to have '«'reat power, which i^; considerably heij^htcned by the reflection of the snow and ice. The in- habitants are more tanned by the reflection of the snow in these months, tlian they are at any other season of the year by the sun. It li likewise so very hurtful to the eyes, that tliey are obliged to wear shades of green gauze fastened to their hats. The snow begins to melt early in April, and by the second or thi^d week, it is generally all gone, during this period it is dreadful walking in town, and as bad travelling in the country. The streets of Quebec are inundated with snow- water, and the kennels have the appearance and sound, of so many little rapids, The ice, in the river, is seldom totally gone before the first week in May. The breaking up of the ice. in the vicinity of Quebec, is not attended with any re- remarkable noise or appearance; but at Montreal/ and the upper parts of the river, where it is fro- 3fen quite across, I am told it has a grand appear- f;"i#»^« t ' 'V 3 ^i1)«v ISG PRor.Rrss OF vec;ltation. aiicc, and hrc.iks up with loud reports. Thd lakr. ico comes down in prodigious quantities for several days, brinujiii^ with it the roots and branches of trees wliicli it tears from the ishnds and shores in its progress. Until this lias passed, none of the river vessels can leave Quebec for Montreal. Vessels, however, sometimes arrive from Europe in the midst of it, as was the case in 1807. The llrst vessel that arrived from Europe in 1808, came up to Quebec on the lOtli of April, nine days earlier than the preceding; year. The river, hov.f^vcr, was full of ice, whirh floated with tlie tide in large masses. The ves- sel was forced ashore on the island, a few days before it got up to the town, and was near being lost. The progress of vegetation, as soon as the winter is over, is exceedingly rapid. The trees obtain their verdant folia^re in less than three weeks. The fields, which the autumn before were apparently burnt up, are now adorned with the richest verdure. Nature seems anxious to arouse from the lethargy into which she had been thrown by the chilling blasts of winter, and to exchange her hoary raiment for one more splendid and magnificent. Spring can scarcely be said to exist, before summer is at hand. The productions of the tield and the garden, are brought in quick succession to the markets ; and ftesh meat, poultry, and vegetables, now regale dia TIIUNDEU STORM AT (iUl^BrC* 127 the iiiliabltiiiits, who, for go in;my inoiithj*, had been coiitiiKul to thoir frozen provisions. Tlie months of ?iluv and Juno urc often wet; sometimes greatly to the detriment of hiisbaudry. Ill the sprinc; of 1S07, the weather was unusually wet, from the latter end of Aj)ril until the lOtli of «liMie, when it cleared up, after a most violent thunder storm which happened on the Dtli. During' May, scarcely a day passed without rain, and the weather was excessively changeable : Fahrenheit's thermometer was sometimes as hii^li as 75, and at other times as low as 20, in the course of four-and-twenty hours. The farmers had not finished sowing- by th6 middle of June, thougli Ihey in general get all their wheat into the ground by the 20th of May. Some people are of opinion, that sowing late, answers best in Canada, as the ground has then time to imbibe the heat of the sun after the snow has melted ; and that wheat sown in June, is ripe as soon as that sown in May. The practice of the Cuiitt- dian fanners is, however, contrary to this theory. Thunder and liohtnino; do not very often ~ CD J ^i^it Canada, but when they do, their violence is great, and damug'e generally ensues. The storm on the i)th of June, 1807, was the most violent combination of thunder, lightning, and. rain, that I ever witnessed. It began in the forenoon, and continued, without intermission, till mid- night. The weather had been very sultry, and ■i- In :. H ■J * <- T1 I iff:! if ri >t| if! ni: ¥ ! pi t •■ iflt i '■'¥, t ^^t ?*-. TIlt'NDKR STORM AT QUEBEC. tlie (bunder and lightning followed eacli other in quick succession all day, accompanied by heavy showers of rain. But when nig:ht came on, tiie lightnini^ was uncommonly strong and vivid. The whole sky was illuminated every moment, while it played in foiky mazes through the air. The thunder rolled in long and dread- ful peals, over the lol'ty chain of mountains, in the vicinity of Quebec ; while the valleys echoed with the fulminating voice of Nature, which seemed to thrialcu ihe dissolution of all her works. Upwards of sixty vessels vvere in the the river, aiul I was greatly alarmed for their safety. Our house being situated close to the water-side, I had an extensive view of this sub- lime and awful spectacle, for many miles distant over the south shore, the island of Orleans, and the mountains to i\\c northward. Fortunatelv, no a( cident of consequence happened, though the electric fluid darted to the earth in all direc- tions, and from eight to ten o'clock at night, its artjon was so rapid and incessant, that my eyes became painful in beholding such a continued glare of light. In 1806, a house near the ramparts was struck by lightning, and one side considerably damaged ; no lives were lost : but a few years ago a child was struck dead in one of the streets of Quebec, and several cattle destroyed. This violent storm had a good eflfect upon the it 1 PLAGUES OF CANADA. 129 1 other led by ; canic tig and every brough drcad- ains, in echoed which all her in the or their ; to the lis sub- distant ans, and nately, though direc- lo-htj its my eyes ntinued struck niaged; a child uebeCj Ipon the Weather, which before then had been very wet and changeable. It now became dry^ mild, and serene, and afforded the farmers an opportunity of completing their sowing. The following is a tolerable correct state of Fahrenheit's thermo- meter in the shade, during the summer of ISO? : Lotvest. May - - 20 - . iJighest. • ' 75 continual rain. June - - 50 - • - 90 Tain the first week, afterwards dry ^ warm July ~ . 5$ - ■ . - 96 dry and sultry. August - 68 - ■ • - 90 fine warm weather with little rain. September 46 - ■ . - 78 fine mild weather. The spring, summer, and autumn of Canada, are all comprised in these five months. The rest of the year may be said to consist wholly of win- ter. The month of October is sometimes agree- able, but Nature has then put on her L\loomv mantle, and the chilling blasts form the north-west remind the Canadians of the approach of snow and ice, November and April are the two most disagreeable months. In the one the snow is falling, in the other it is going away. Both of them confine the people to their houses^, and ren- der travelling uncomfortable ; and even danger- ous: nor can the inhabitants of Canada enjoy their fine summer months, with that comfort and pleasure experienced in Europe. One of the greatest plagues to which they are subject, are in my opinion, the common house- flies. It is not decided whether they are natives of the country or were imported ; I think, how- VOL. I. K v*"i \i ' ii 1 1 Mii', litiilti! \mn •'Ml ! ill 1 If mn I ;iiiv t bi-^ 1 1,: ill „ f 'l ♦ H 1,)!: ». 130 SCORCIII^fi SUMMERS. ever, that their boldness and assurance exceed their European brethren. The torment which these insects occasion in the montlts of June, July, and Aufi;ust, is beyond conccjitlon. Your room must be entirely darkened or it is impossi- ble to remain undisturbed ; the warmer and lighter it is, the more nutiierous and active the flies will be, and the greater will be your suffer- ing. The stoves keep them alive in winter, but the sun restores them to their full vigour and O power of annoying in the summer. I have sat down to write, and have been obliged to throw my pen away in consequence of tbeir irritating bite, which has obliged me every moment to raise my hand to my eyes, nose, mouth, and ears, in constant succession. When I could no longer write, I began to read, and was always obliged to keep one hand constantly on the move to- wards my head. Sometimes in the course of a few minutes I would take half a dozen of my tormentors from my lips, between which I caught them just as they perched. In short, while sit- ting quiet in a chair, I was continually worried by them ; and as it has been justly observed of the same insects in Russia, none but those who have suiiered, could believe them capable of so much torment. At length, when my patience was exhausted in doors, I would put on mj hat and walk out, thinking to enjoy the delightful zephyrs which sit- rried cd of who >f so id in out, Ibich SCORCHING SUMMERS. 131 oil en frolic in the atmospliere at that season of the year ; but in less than five minutes, I was op- pressed by the scorching beams of the meridian sun. To avoid a coup de soleil, I retreated to a thick shady gTove, which seemed invitini^'me to take shelter under its umbrageous foliage; but as if to bring my suflerings to a climax, I was immediately surrounded by myriads of musqui- toes, sand-flics, and other venomous insects, whose repeated attacks upon my face^ hands, and legs, compelled me reluctantly to return to my old tormentors at home, who, though equally teazing, are certainly not so venomous as their long-legged brethren. The sting of the musquito is trifling at first, but the next day is extremely painful, and some- times dangerous, if violently rubbed. The best remedy, is to wash the part with some powerful acid. Lemon-juice, or vinegar, has relieved me frequently from the painful irritation which its venom excites. The brulOts or sand-flics are so very small, as to be hardly perceptible in their attacks; and your forehead will be streaming with blood before you are sensible of being amongst them. These are the only disagreeables that are at- tached to a Canadian summer ; were it free from them, it would be equal to that of any other country hi the world ; but as it is, a burning sun, house-flies, musquitocs, and sand-flies, certainly k2 ) ft'' :■ h 1 1 ♦Pit* " \ M T) I --,' 111 I ' 'I* ,,■■'•' I: lll'iZi:. \m I • ■ .» 132 agreeablc seasons. prevent llie finest months of the year IVoin bcin^ enjoyed in fall |)Cifection. The sutnnicr of 1808 was the hottest that hat been known for several years in Canada. In th« months of July and August, tlic thermometef was several times at 90 and 95, and one or two days it rose to 103 in the shade, at Montreal, and Three Rivers. At Quebec it was 101 or }02. I >vas at Three Rivers during those months : the soil of that town is sandy, and I think 1 never experienced in my life, such an oppressive heat. It appears that it was unusually hot about that time in Eirgland, and I suppose it was the same upon the Continent. The fall of the year is the most agreeable scasoii in Ca\iada. The sultry weather is then gone, and the night frosts have entirely destroyed, or para- lyzed the efforts of the venomous insects. The inhabitant o^ Canada has then no house-flies, no sand-flies, musquitoes, nor coups de soleil to fear, fie can then, and then only,, walk abroad, range the woods, or sit at home, with ease and comfort to himself. noil, OF LOWER CANADA 133 CHAP. YIIl. Soil of Loicer Canada — ^leadoii's^^CuUivated Lands — Mode of Farming — Few Orchard's — Indian Corn — Tobacco — Cidinarj/ Roots — Seigniory of Gi ondines'-^Barren Soil — Price of Land — Gradual Lnirrovenmit — Want of Enlcrprize among the Canadians — Formed themselves on the Model of tlieir Forefathers — V'ieii) of the Shores of the St. Lawrence — Extensive chain of Settlements — Beauiifi'l Scene^^Seitlement at Stoneham Towjiship'-^ Clearing of Land — Canadian Cattle — The first Horse seen in Canada — Poidtrij — American Horse Dealers — Rongh Treatment of Canadian Horses. TuE soil of Lower Canada is composed of great varieties^ and is more or less fertile as it ap- proaches to the north or soutli. From Father Pointj (the lowest settlement on the south shore) to Kamouraska^ hut little is cultivated, and that little yields a crop only with considerable labour. From Kamouraska, to the island of Orleans, both on the north and south shores, the soil gradually mm \. i, ' 1 iti I *. If 'D I ■tli> K < h (. ^ 1 f\ i: f-aJ- ll.'i: "4 Ifc (;' ji' Rivers in 46" 25', and Quebec in 46^ 55'. The French Canadians sow only summer wheat, though I should think that winter wheat mi2;ht be sown in autumn with success. Peas, oats, rje, and barley, arc sown more or less by every farmer; though the largest crops of these, as well as wheat, appeared to be in the island of Mon- treal and its vicinity. The French Canadians seldom trouble them- selves with gardens or orchards ; while their neighbours in the United States, would not feel happy without a large plantation of apple, pear, and peach trees adjoining their houses. Except in the island of Montreal, very little fruit is grown ; and that island, for its fertility in every production, may justly be called the garden of Lower Canada. The farmers assist each other at harvest time, labourers being in some places verj' scarce, and in others not to be procured. The wheat is sown early in May, and is ripe generally about the latter end of August. The Canadians sow small quantities of maize or Indian corn, they however, do not make such general use of it, as the people of the United States, who feed their cattle upon it, and make hominy and bread of it for themselves. The Canadians cultivate it more as an article of luxury, than of necessity. They are extravagantly fond of the corn cobs boiled pr roasted, and rubbed over with a little butter €EIGNIORY or GKONDINES. Wi and salt. They pick the corn off tlie cob in thr same stylcj and with as much ,^aut as an alder- man picks the wing of a fowl at a city feast. Tobacco is grown in small quantities^ and at- tended chieliy by the wouien^ who arc also fully employed in the other parts of husbandry. E:u!i Habitant cultivates enough for his own consump- tion, and a small quantity generally for miirKct. The Canadian tobacco possesses a very mild and agreeable flavour, totally devoid of those strong pungent qualities, for which the Virgiiiiantobacco is remarkable. It is grown on a small spot of ground close to the house, the ro.ots are hoed and attended by the children or the females of the family. It might no doubt become an article of some importance, if properly attended to, but the scanty population is at present a check upon its being cultivated to any great extent. Culi- nary vegetables are raised in tolerable plenty. The favorite roots of the Habitans are onions, garlic, and leeks ; of these they eat largely, and consequently smell abominably. The disagree- able effects of these strong esculents are, however, somewhat checked by the fumes of the tobacco plant, which they are smoaking from morning to night. With the exception of the seigniory of Gron- dines, the lands between Quebec and Three Ri- vers are remarkable neither for sterility, nor ex- traordinary fruitfulness. They arc cuUivated ■'.\ .ill ^i n '11 : ii!i^ ' ' n FT i-' i . . 4: It !« •If 138 PRICE UF LAND. much in the same careless manner as the lands below them. Grondines, which is abont 50 miles from Quebec, on the same side of the river, is a remarkable exception to the general quality of Jand in this part of the country. This seigniory, which is upwards of ten miles square, consists of one vast bed of grey rock or lime stone, slightly covered with a poor soil, about half a do/en inches in depth, intermingled with an immense quantity of loose stones, from which it is labour in vain to attempt to clear it. The people v/ho reside on this barren spot which gives birth only to pines and firs, are of course extremely poor, and scarcely able to procure enough for their subsistence. Though the soil for some miles in the neigh- bourhood of Three Rivers, is sandy and barren, yet the adjoining seigniories upwards, of Machi^ cheand River du Loup, are extremely fertile, and yield abundant crops of grain. The lands on the south shore of the district of Three Rivers, are also very good. The price of land varies according to its quality and state of cultivation. Good arable land, in the best situations, sells in Lower Canada for about 5/. per acre ; indiffe- rent land for 4 and 5 dollars ; wood land at 3 dollars per acre; but in the back townships it may be bought at the sheriffs' sales for less than 6d. The land continues to improve as you approach Montreal, from which district the greatest quan» tity of grain is procured. This gradual im- PKICE OF LAND. ir;D proveincn* in tlie soil continues all tlirough Up- per Canada, where it as mncli siir'^^nsscs (Uat <>t liic lower province in lertility, us Montreal sur- passes Kaniouraska. The French Canailians arc not possessed of any agricultural efiteri)rize or spirit. They are a perfect contrast to tlie inhahitaiits of tiie I'nited States, who wander from forest to forest, exiend- ing cultivation to the rcHnotest reunions ; while the Canadians have settled for upwards of t\v.> centuries, upon the banks of the St. Liiwrencr, without attempting to remove from the spot, or explore the recesses of the forests which sur- round them. This close association of the tirrl. settlers, was no doubt occasioned by a variety of circumstances. Exposed at an early period ict repeated attacks from the Indians, their safety depended on numbers, which a scattered setlie- ment could not furnish in proper time. I'hrir religion exacted from them numerous ccrenioniaLs, which required a strict and frequent observance. No situation could therefore be so ^veli aiJaptcd for settlement, as the shores of a large and nobie river, which besides the richness of the soil, and inviting situation, aftbrded them arradycnni- munication with each other, and what was of equal importance, the means of observing certain religious foimaiilies, and })roviding subBistcnrc at a time when their lands were vet uncultivated The present inbiihitauts, wljo have fon;icd ( [' ' . 1' ' '' ; 1 ' ft ' : h' rt * ! H H;t- 1 ft; H ^^ MO Br\i;riri!L scFAr.. (li(nivt)0(!i nan's mxc is lu vcr Iward, ncu* Ihr iWiui ni<)no(<»ny ultich roi.'iiip in tlial liMiclr space, vwr %listin!)cd, {'\copl I>v {li<' liirds inicl hoasts of Uie t'lirest; (H' ihi". Holihirv >var.dt.'riij«^'» of llic Tur- tiadcr ju;d !ii.s party. About rdioen years a.M;o. :»n fntcrpri/int!; miles norlh o!* (^^iirbcc. For a few vears it {louri>iied iindt-r «l)e Ibstoiin.v; C'are of its projector, but wlicn he illvd, (be seflleineiit fell into dccav: at (bis dav i\w. ruins of (be iiouse, ind corn-tields overrun willi rank {.n-ass and weeds, are all that reniain oC (be fond bopeii and fxpcc(a(ions of tbeir ^.au^nine owner. IVir. Weld speaks of lliis setdcnient in liis Travels : at that period it was in tbe lieij.»,bt of its prospe- ri(y, and though several persons at Quebec joined Mr. Toosey in procurinj*^ the lownsbij?, none of them were induced to settle there. One cause of complaint was the distance, which (ney con- sid^T too far from town. On the south side, adioinin?; the boundaries of the United States, the interior is settling' fast: not however by the French Canadians, but by Ame- ricans from the Stales^ who set ibemselves down with V(ry little ceremony, upon ttic dillVrent townships bordering on their country, and be^^iu to clear the woods, aud cultivate the land, often ill! i-." n i..t ■ ' 1 f «t J' f Si 'J* m ,) <[ p. ::'M ■I!- iM AMKIIICAN- HORSE- DEAM'.RS' 'li.il? Iiorsrs to T5(»s}on, or New York, and ihcxd <»i)Uin 30 (JT '{ill. for cacli, acrorcliiii; to their laliTC, while in Canada tliey rarely sf^ll for more Ihim 10 or \2l. Tlio Canadians are reckoned \ery adroli at a bargain, and even fond of over- reacl'ina;: but \ !' 1 » M' i.|i 1^' 4' ill HC) l»0PLLAtlON. were aucm nknl or diminished^ as the circiira- stancrsj or cxif;encies of the country might re- qniie. That tljo domiciliated Indians who were collecJcd into villajiTS in different situations in tlie colony, were about 16,000, and the num- ber of French and Canadians resident in Quebec, was nearly 8000." If the Indians and inhabit- atits of Quebec are not inchidod in the first iiuinbcr, and I stippose tfie Indians are not, as Mr. \l. parficuhirly mentions r:hite inhabitants, the total population, exclusive of regular troops, A\()uld tlien be 115,000. The province of Ca- nada was not divided into Upper and Lower, till the year 1792; tiie census' therefore, that were taken antecedent to *' it period, included the po- pulation of the whole colony. I am not acquainted with the source from whence ?>Ir. llcriot derived his information, but the census of General Murrav, scTcn vears sub- sequent to 175S, stated the entire population of the province to he, exclusive ofthe king's troops, 76,275. Tins number included the Indians who were stated to amount only to 7,U)0. Here U a \:ist and Mupri/ing r/tr;t'f(7.s(' of the inliabitanti in the course of seven years ; and upon the sup- position lliat tile numbers in 1758 were 1 15,000, there is a loss of no less than o8,7'i5 ; hut tak- ing it trily at Of, 000, still there is a decrease of !4,'<25, of the colonists and native inhabitants We myy easily suppose, that a long wai, and CENSUS OP THE PROTINCE. JIT iinally the subjugation of tlic couMtry, by a power totally opposite in national niainu is, ( !;a- ractei,, and principles, must have occasioned a considerable dxininulion of its population ; for besides those who were lost in battle, nuniners no doubt emii^rated to old Fiance, or to other conn- tries where they might lind a e;overnment more congenial to their habits and sentiments. If we look at the number of Indians vvhotn Mr. H. states to have been domicilia'.od in the province in 175S, and the number given in by tbc census of 17G5, we shall there alone, find a loss of 8,600. It is possible tliat the ravages of war might occasion this great loss, for in tho course of a campaign, the Indians are ofterv;: opposed to enemies ofthcii own description, tha;! to the European arm'eSj and Jieic mode oi'ijgut- inn: occasions a o'reatcr shiuiHiter. I have no d.>ubt, therefore, that this remark- able decrease of the popuhilion cf Canada, in lh;i course of so ^liort a period, may ];c ^•atisfact'>riiy accounted for, when we consider the v, ar thht preceded tlie conquest, and tiie very unsctll'.'d s(itc of the country for a considerable time after that event. Tiie distentions bttwecn the army and civil power of tlu' British Csovernmcnt, atid tbe disaust which the French noblc-rse, the clera'y* and inliabitaiits felt at being subjected t;) the will of a foreign people, mu.st have strop.giy tended to emigration, and cor-tribiiU'd, with tbe Id iV ■'I: I lite I J ,' a* ri'- i . f f* f\ A H) mm It r I! ■ ' «|:( ; Ai «^ :| i^'l ins ^ *ill -ft 1.1 '1 ! M' p; 11 n iff ^ 11 > '■jig: '■*••''' Wi'-' ■'hi l^'Jn ^k' I ^t MM , 'fl 1*' :H liif 14S CENSUS OF THE PnOtfNCK OF TtNAD.! losses sustaiiKMl by (he war, to thin tlie popwl.i- tion of the colony, which was far from hc.'iug recruited l>y Bi ivlio have ciuii^-ralcd from various parts of the United Kiii:;'dom. Very few French peoi)le reside in that province; and it is a remarkable circumstance^ that among all the Britisli residents in the two coh)nits, not two hundred Ew^Ushmai , perhaps, can he fo:nid. I was told that at Quebec there were not more than twelve or fourteen of that country. Tlie rest are either Irish or Scotch, though the former bear no proportion to the latter, who are distri- buted from one end of the Canadas to the other. The Irish emigrate more to the United States than to Canada, and no h'ss than 30,000 arc said to have emigrated thither in 1801. Beins; dis- contented with their own government, thev en- deavour to seek relief under a foreign ono, whose virtues have been so greatly exagger.ited, and whose excellent properties have been extolled to the skies. A few months, however, convince them of their error, and those who arc not suld to their American masters, irenerallv find their vvay into Upper Canada. Of all British emigrants, tlic Scctch nre the most indefatigable and perscvtring. i\\ poseity they lei ve their native home ; yet ^culoni rctnru to it without a handsome compctnuy. Their patient diligence and submissi(M), in \hv pursuit of riches, together with their general knowledge and good sense^ render them highly beneficial to the !''.)' it* 1^ Mi m iS- I' * r 4 I ii * '■I ■; if Ml \^ ^ ' ■ t b • } ill Ihu >.| ;• I 'it fl ri I I 1 0,9 EMIGflANT SETTLERS motlicr country ; wliile tlioir natural partialiljr for their ancient soil, secures their steady attach- ment, and adherence to the British govcrnuicnt. The French settlers form a distinct class from the Bi lish, and present as great a contrast in their character and manners, as exists between their brethren in Europe. The majority of the French who emigrated to Canada, are said to have come originally from Normandy. The colony wJiS peopled very slowly for many years, in consequence of the few advantages wjiich it held forth to men in that age, v hose heated ima- ginations could be satisfied only by mines of gold, or mountains of jasper. Canada presented but few attractions to the stranger. Its dreary and uncomfortable wilds ; its bleak and lofty moun- tains, covered one half the vear with snow, re*- pulsed, rather than invited, those who visited it. But when the value of the fur trade, and fisheries, came to be known, and properly estimated, a sufiScient scope was opened for the activity and enterprize of restless spirits. Individuals arrived, and established themselves. Families and com» munitics, detachments of troops, regiments, and armies, followed each other in succession, and in the course of half a century, erected this bleak portion of the new hemisphere, into a valuable and extensive colony. Those who settled in Acadia, now called Nova ^otia, formed a sort of independent community* i^U fova CaARACTER 01 THE HABITANS. 1 - •» micontrouU'il byllio tnollicr roiinfry. Tliov poi» messed thv. iiilorior nnIiIIc IIh.' Kuj^Ii>li occujiiod ilm sca-ro;ist. In Ihe course of iiwu) these people i«i- teriiiinj:l( d vvitli each other, and their oll'sprlrj^ possessed a mixed character, \\hich at ihi'^ day stron<»:ly marks those who arc now setin2:iiij;!ies them from the i'lcnch inliahitanls of tliose coh^inC^. 7'hev however partake more of the Frciich *V 4 'H i" '^ 1^ It . !|f.,t ■? Ofcasions, tlioy \>iil iinderiro the greatest hard- ships. There cannot he a stronger proof of this' ilian in lho?e wlio lahour in the spring to collect t!ic Slip of l!:e mnple tree: their exertions for five or six weeks wljile the snow is on the ground, arc f.xrcssive. Nor.e also undcriio severer trials than those wlio arc employed in ilw, fur trade. They penctrah:: the iiriiiiense forcjifs of the north-west for lhoi!s;irj:i3 of inil;'s, exposed to all tlie severi- ties of file climaie, and often to famine and dis- ease. That varsity should he a predominant cha- racteristic of tlie Canadians, is no more than Blight be expected from the children of France, whose national character is vanity. The ilabilans content themselves with follow- ing the f(H)th(cps of their forefatiiers. They arc satisfied ^vith a little, because a little satisfies their wants. Thi'v are quiet and obedient suh- jLcts, because they feel the value and benefit of the gc.»vcrnment under \vhich they live. They trouble themselvca not with useless arguments concerning its good or bad qualities, because they feel tljcinsclves protected, and not oi)picssed by its laws. They are religious from education £i;d habit, more than from principle. They ob- serve its ccrciiioiiies and formalities, not l)ecause tii«y are necessary to their salvalion, but because it jTratiHos th.eir vanitv and superstition. Thev live iii happy metliocrity, without a wish or en- deavour to better their condition, though uiany of II Ail IT AN HOUSES. 155 tiicni are amply possesEicJ of the means. Yet (hey love money, and are seldom on the wrong side of a bargain. From poverty and oppressioa they have been raised, since the conquest, to inde- pendent alUnence. Tliey now know, and fcv] the value of money and freedom, and are not willing to part with either. Their parsimonious fru- gality is visible in tlteir habitations, their dress, and their meals ; and Iiad they been as indus- trious and cnferprizing, as they have been fru- gal and saving, they would have been the richest peasantry in the world. Their houses arc composed of logs sliglitlj fsmoothed with the axe, laid upon each other, and dove tailed at the corners. Sometimes a frame work is first constructed, and the logs laid upon each other, between two grooves. The interstices are filled with clay or mud, and the sides of the building washed outside and in, with lime dis- solved in water. This, they say, has the property of preserving the wood better than paint, from the efl'ects of the weather, and vermin; at all events it has the property of being cheaper, which is a consideration of more importance to tiK'm, than weather or vermin. The roof is constructed with boards, and gene- rally covered with shingles. Sometimes thcv arc white-washed, but oftener allowed to remaiii iu their natural slate. In a few months the wea- |her changes the colour of tlic wood, and g;ive« i I] 1^ ^' I U{\ HABIYAN HfllflES. the shingles the appearance of slate, which, ^vith the white sides have a pleasiiiij; oficct. Tlie whole, howevrr, falls verj short of the neat wooden farm* houses in the Uniteon the bedstead is placed a feather or straw bed, with tlie usual ch)the.s, and covered M'ith a patclivvork counterpaije, or given sttill" quilt. In winter, the men fieqnenlly hiy them- selves along tlie heaitli, or by tlie stove, wrapped up in a bulfalo robe. \\\ the middle orilu.' niahr, they will get up, stir tlie (ire, smoke tiuir pipe, and lie down ajrain till mornin";. The Frenchwomen have adopted more cleanly maxims since the English have settled in Wvi country. Formerly, it is said, they would suiier ••their rooms to remain for a twelvemonth before they were swept, or scoured ; and to prevent tha dnstj or dirt from rising, they sprinkled their apartments with water several times a day. That constant scorning of rooms and remarkable clean- liness, which is the peculiar character of the En- glish, the Canadian women aflirmed, was injuri- ous to health, and therefore they neglected tlie greatest comfort of life. But in ail nations there \% a g»eat diversity of dispositions and manners ; and though^ from the combination of certain traits, and peculiarities in the people, a country m ly appropriate to itself a national cha- i'acter, yet individuals of that nation often ex- x « ' \ h «« ^ S'.i' ■I* LI ui I'h ^•w .t' la? f ' % f •I *•» ^M ,f) il. t . i KVS IMCrUIlK Ol' A IIABITAN IIOIJ^h;. Iii!;il ;i dirrr( coiilrasf to if. (icncial rules iiic not wilhoiit pjiiliiil rx«('|)Ji()iis ; aiut IIutc arc J'rcijcli u(M!UMi ill (\ii!;nla, as rcmarliJihh; I'or rU'aiiliiu'ss, as llicrc iirc others riMnaikabic for (lie ()j)j)osile (^xlrcHic. TIk* riiniilurr (^jf ;i t).)l((!nvs, and Iv, o or llir<'<' deal fables, arc j)laev'il \:\ er.cl] room, and are s< Mom very orna- ment ;»l ; (hev, howrver, siifilee, with a proper iininl;i*r of woof'.en howls, treneher.-, and spoons, tor the use of the I'amily at meals. A ]ires.s, and two or three Iarj;e rliests, contain their wearin<»;- aj^jiarel, aiul other [iroperty. A bnfiet in one corner, contaiiis tJHMr small display of cups, sau- <"er,s, pjasscs, and tea-]H)ts, wliilc a few broken sets may p(Mhaps i;raee the mantle-piece. A lari!;e < h)ek is ot'ten I'onnd in their best apartment, and the sides of iuc room are ornamented with liille jiietnr(s, or wa\en images ofsaintsand cru- tiiixe."; ol'tlie lioly virgin and her son. An iron ^jo^e is gei.erally placed in the largest apartment, wiilj a i)ipc p:;ssini»; throni;h th(? others into the chimney. Tlie uitchcn diM[)l;!ys \ery litth; inoie t'lUii keltlcs (>f s()U[)^ — tureens of milk — a tiMc, a dresser, and a few chairs, Tl'.e tlre- F'isice is wi'' . nvCl iariie loi^s of wood are ()laced on (iiu laihioD'.ii ij'on dn^s. A wooden crane I* h ANTCDOTr, OF A n J •: n OF TtA. jj9 Mj;)j)oi'ts tlw liirj^c kt'Ctlc ol' soup, which is (or t'vcr oil the 1 UL'. Thrir chief iiitiilc of food, is pork, us fit as lliey run procure it. They all k<('p n ij:;r(Mt \\\\m- ber of swine, v.hieh they fallen lo Hi«ir liking'*. I'eas «^onp, wilh a small (jn;inlil\ of pork boiled in it, eon^tiliiles Iheir break lasl, (liiiiu r, \\\r\ <\\]\- per, (lay afler (!av, wilh very liKh^ ::l(c ialioi;, e.v- cept 'wlial is oceasioiied bv a few sunsaLi'S, a:ul pn(l(lin«i;s in-ide of I'le (M»f rails*, wluMia ho"; is killed ; or during: i.ent, when \\A: and vcire- -(m tlie r(;;(.d lo r\]oiifreal \VJi: ' I!' 4 I [^' |i ^ ■■ iiiilf i. u r ■f it hi V I- U)0 ^NECDOTE OP A nrsff OF tt\. (ress of the tiouse, to make him some ten, and gav^, that a beefsteak, or a slice of cold meat, was a considerable improvement to the tea-table). After waiting a longer time than the gentleman thought necessary to make a cup of tea, the wo- man came into the room ; but how shall I de- stribe his astonishment, when he beheld the whole pound of tea nicely boiled, and spread out on adish^ with a lump of butter in the mid- dle ! the good woman had boiled it all in the cliauderan, and was placing it on the table as a line dish of greens to accompany the gentleman'* told beef. Milk and water is the usual drink of the fe- males and younger part of the family. Rum is, however, the cordial balm which relieves the men from all their cares and anxieties. They are passionately fond of this pernicious liquor, and often have a debauch when they go to market with their commodities. I have seen in the Upper Town market-place, at Quebec, a father and his son both drunk. The young one, however, was not so bad, but that he was sensible of the im- propriety, so be tumbled the old man out of the mean ishcs. entie- ; ( Tor poor I such miiat:, able), lenian e wo- I de- kl the spread e mid- lin the le as a sman'i the fe- Rum res the ley are ►r, and larket [Upper ind his ir, was Ihc ira- of the A FRACAS IN THE MARKET-l'LACF. ini spirit shop, Into the stTot, and endeavoured to force him into tlie !terlin, to carry Mm home. The oUl fellow, however, pulled his soji down by the hair, and bci^an to belabour liim v.ifh his fist, ottering ten thousand mctci and /; rs upon his unduliful head. The yoin«|^ nian could not extricate himself, and ))eini>' jncftv inuth in that state v, hich is called " crvini!" drunk," he beg,'an to weep, oallino-ont at (he same n lip .!! Li 162 PORTRAIT OF THE HABITANT. The Canadian country-people bake their own bieadj \vhich is made of whejit-flonr and rye- meal; but for the \vai>t of yeast , it has a sour taste, and is coarse and lis aw. Their ovens arc built oi wicker-wot K', plaistered inside and out with a thick coatiim* of clav or mortar. Some are built of bricks or stones, but the former arc more g;e- ijsral. They are fituate at a short di.'^ance from the house, lo prevent accidents fromifire, and arc raised about four feet from the ground, covered with a roof of boards, supported by four posts, to keep olfthe rain. IMjo dress of the Habitant is simple, and homely ; it consists of a loni^-skirted cloth coat or frock, of a dark grey colour, with a hood at- tached to it, which in winter time^ or wet wea- ther, he puts over his head. His coat is tied round the waist by a worsted sash of various colours, ornamented with beads. His waistcoat and trovvsers are of the same cloth. A pair of moccasins, or swamp-boots, complete the lower part of his dress. His hair is tied in a thick long queue behind, wiih an eelskin; and on each side of his face a few strait locks hang down like, what are vulgarly called, " rats' tails.'* Upon his head is a bonnet rouge, or in other words, a red night-cap. The tout ensemble of his figure is completed by a short pipe, which he has in his mouth from morning till night. A Dutchman is not u greater imoker than a French Canadian. PORTRAIT OF THE HABITANT. 16 J ;ir OWVk id ryc- ir tiistc, PC built t Nvith a irc built lorc ge- ice from and arc , covered posts, to pie, and jlotb coat bood at- wet wea- at is tied various waistcoat A pair of tbe lower bick long cacb side lown like, Upon bis rds, a red s figure is bas in bis tcbman is nadian. Tbe visage of tlie Habitant is long and tbin, bis complexion sunburnt and swartli); and notun- tVequently ofa darker bue tlian tbat of the Indian. His eyes, tbougb rather small, arc dark and lively. His nose prominent, and inclined to the acquiline or Roman form. His cheeks lank and meag^re. His lips small and tbin. His chin sharp and projecting. Such is tbe almost invariable portrait of a Ca- nadian Habitant, or countryman, and more or less of the lower order of French people in the towns. It is, in fact, a portrait of iive-sixths of the male iidiabitants of Lower Canada. It i^ very seldom that any alteration takes place in tbe dress of the men; unless in summer, tbe long coat is exchanged for a jacket, and the bonnet rouge for a straw bat ; but it oftener bappens tbat the dress which I have described is worn the whole year round. The dress of tbe women is old-fashioned ; for the articles which compose it never find their way into Canada, until they have become stale in England. I am now speaking of those who deck themselves out in printed cotton gowns, muslin aprons, sbawls, and handkerchiefs; but there are numbers who wear only clotb of their own manufacture, the same as worn by tbe men. A petticoat and short jacket, is tbe most pre- vailing dress ; though some frequently deco- rate themselves in all the trappings of modern I '*, 1 "li-.i!kii ' "•:i I iir iii ' vl .. 4 IJ !■ I- f. kill J >.S .' ''Si' m 11 164 RESOURCES OF THE HABITANS. finery, but which, in point of fiisbion, are pjenc- rally a few years behind those of Luropr. The elderly women still aillirre to lon^ \vai»^ts, full caps, and larii^c clubs of hair behind. Some of the younger branches of the connlry women are becoming more modern, having imbibed a spirit for dress from the French girls who live in the towns, as servants. The Habitant have almost every resource within their own families. They cultivate flax, which they manufacture into linen; and their sheep supply them with the wool, of which their gar- ments are formed. They tan the hides of their cattle, and make them into moccasins and boots. From woollen yarn they knit their own stockings and bonnets rouge ; and from straw they make their summer hats and bonnets. Besides articles of wearing apparel, they make their own bread, butter, and cheese; their soap, candles, and sugar ; all which are suppplied from the productions of their farm. They build their own houses, barns, stables, and ovens. Make their own carts, wheels, ploughs, harrows, and canoes. In short, their ingenuity, prompted as much by parsimony as the isolated situation in which they live, has pro- vided them with every article of utility, and every necessary of life. A Canadian will seldom or never purchase that which he can make himself ; and I am of opinion, that it is this saving spirit I 4 1 1 c genc- !. The ists, full Some of ueii are a spirit J in the ;e within \c, vvhicli ir sheep lieir gar- s of their 1(1 hoots, stockings icy make s articles n bread, |i(l sugar ; ctions of es, barns, s, wheels, rt, their imony as has pro- ud every eldom or himself ; ing spirit i .«' 'I' ■^1 •IIP ♦■-((. ■f-* :y. ^m m i\ t ill !|:i 'i !» f} '•■*>' (I'i .;. ilj.) •Mi e^^t-H" ili.'*'. it 1 t s , f 1 i „ ■ ^1' 1 ''I '1 if ■i W v| y^--M;'% ili' ! -iV-ni-: I- ' f*. "' ♦ i'. ■f:if,-i-„ ■•4«u.-,.'.r»> .>^*- -f' '•■y* ' .m; RESOURCES OF THE HABITAN8. 165 of frugality alone, which has induced them to follow the footsteps of their fathers, and which has prevented them from profiting by the modern improvements in husbandry^ and the new im- plements of agriculture introduced by the English settlers. . ty- ■flllH I ;vft» ! ■'"'^,1 ,fJI:^ iff mil *« ]' 4^ At < ' , 1" I' m-^ ' '*». |f, ,i » mm V <^ i IM ?) ' lii! M 'tr^ ■i>-^ ., ?! M :,i 1 •?!: .i f 1 166 HANDSOME CHILDREN. CMAP. X. Handsome Children-^Pernicious EJTi'cfs of tht Stove — Manners of the llahitans — Alodcstij — Genius — General Dcjicienqj of Education — Necessitijfor diffusing a Knowlcd.Q;c ofllie Eng- lish Language more generally throughout the Province — JMarriages — Calashes — JhrliuG — Carioles — Covered Cariolcs — Laws of tJic lioad "—Civilitij of the llahitans — Partialilij to Danc- ing and Feasting on certain Days — Vanity of a young Fellow in painting Jiis Cheelcs — Supersti- Hon of an Old Lady — Jnccdote of the Holy Water — Corrupt French spoken in Canada — Observations upon the Hahiians. The children of the Ilabitans are generally pretty, when young, but from sitting over the stoves in winter, and labouring in the fields in summer, their complexion becomes swarthy, and their features ordinary and coarse. The boys adopt the pernicious habit of smoking, al- most as soon as they have strength to hold a pipe in their mouth: this must insensibly injure the constitution, though from the mildness of their tobacco, its effects must be less deleterious than PERNICIOUS EFFECTS OF THE STOVE. 16? itliat of the United States, or the British West In- dies. The ^h'h from manual labour, become strong boned and masculine ; and after thirty years of age, have every appearance of early de- crepitude; yet their constitutions frequently re- main robust and healthy, and some few live to a <:onsidcrable age. When I have entered a Canadian bouse in the winter, T always felt a violent oppression on my Jungs, occasioned by the insufferable heat from the stove ; while the inhabitants, would perhaps, be huddled round it, replenishing the fire in order to make their chauclcron or saucepan of soup boil, which stood on the top of the stove. It may, therefore, be easily conceived^ what a de- gree of heat it is necessary to crea.te in these fur- naces, for thp purpose of penetrating through the iron plate at top, and the bottom of the saucepan which is placed upon it. In fact, I have seen them red hot, and two or three gallons of soup ia full boil. The men will also frequently stand over a stove till they are in a violent perspiration, and then go into the open air on the coldest days ; even sometimes with their breast uncovered. Extremes like these must hurt the constitution ; and though some live to enjoy old age, yet their numbers cannot be compared with those who are cut off in the prime of life. The climate is fa- vourable to longevity, and it is the fault of the 11 r ' 168 MANNERS OF THE HABITANS. tf ti :, lift l^^i ^ >M ' n :; ^1 1"'"1' jl I 5!w i m U ! people, if the} do not live beyond the age of fifty. The women are prolific, and fat chubby chil- dren may be seen at every llubitanrs door I have never heard, however, ihat the St. Liivvrence possesses such properties as arc ascribed to the waters of the MLssiahinpi, which are said to faci- litate procreation in the Louisianiaii females. It is even said, that women, who, in otber parts of the world could never breed, have became preg- nant in a year after their arrival in Louisiana. The manners of the Habitans are easy and po- lite. Their behaviour to strangers is never in- fluenced by the cut of a coat, or a fine perriwig. It is civil and respectful to all, without distinc- tion of persons. They treat their superiors with that polite deference, which neither debases the one, nor exalts the other. They are never rude to their inferiors because they are poor, for if they do not relieve poverty, they will not insult it. Their carriage and deportment are easy and un- restrained ; and they have the air of men who have lived all their days in a town rather than in the country. They live on good terms with each other; pa- rents and children to the third generation residing frequently in one house. The farm is divided as long ais there is an acre to divide ; and their de- sire of living together is a proof that they live happy, otherwise they would be anxious to part. a , DEFICIENCY OF EDUCATION. 169 They are universally modest in their behaviour: the women from natural causes, the men from custom. The latter never bathe in the river without their trowsers, or a handkerchief tied round their middle. They marry young, and are seldom without a numerous family. Hence, Iheir passions are kept within proper bounds, and seldom become liable to those excesses which too often stigmatize, and degrade, the human character. The men are possessed of strong natural ge^ nius, and good common sense ; both of which are, however, but seldom improved by education, owing to the paucity of schools in Canada. The women are better instructed, or, at least, better informed, for they are more attended to by the priests. Hence they generally acquire an influ- ence over their husbands, which those, who are gay and coquetish, know how to turn to their own advantage. The general deficiency of education and learn- ing among the great body of the people in Ca- nada has been long a subject of ncwspuper-com- plaint in that country. But it is extremely doubt- ful whether the condition of the people would be ameliorakMl, or the country benefitted by the distri- bution of learning and information among them. The means of obtaining instruction, at present, are undoubtedly very limited ; but it is occa- $)ioned, in a great measure, by their own parsimo- *< -h! >■ % v:.n I mw^' I \ ;i ' I 'I '■! •itii '" ill. i ! M' I! ji 170 DEFICIENCY OF EDUCATION. nious friip;a^ity ; for if they were willing to spare a sufficient sum for the education of their chil- drerij plenty of masters would be found, and plenty ofs* hoo]>; opened. The British or Ame- rican settlers in the back townships teach their own children the common rudiments of cducar tion ; but the Canadians are themselves unedu- cated, and ignorant, even of the smallest degree of learning; therefore they have it not in their power to supply the v/ant of a school in their own family, and thus do they propagate, from age to age, the ignorance of their ancestors : " For, as refinement stops from sire to son. Unaltered, unimproved, their manners run." With respect to their obtaining a Ivnowiedgc of the English language, I agree with those who are of opinion that so desirable an object might, to a certain extent, be attained by the interference of the government, and the establishing of paro- chial Sunday schools. The number who under- stand, or speak, English in Lower Canada, does Dot amount to one fifthof the whole population, inclu^ling the British subjects. Fev/ of the French clergy understand it, for in the seminary at Quebec, where it ought to form an indispen- sable part of the student's education, it is totally neglected ; in consequence of which, a great many French children who areeducated there, be- sides those that are designed for the church, lose a MARRIAGES. 171 favourable opportunity of becoming acquainted with it; and that which is omitted in youth is neither easily, nor willingly, acquired ia manhood. It is possible that the French clergy may look with jealousy upon the ditfusion of the English language among their parishioners; they may think that as the intercourse between the British and French Canadians will be facilitated by such a measure, the eyes of the latter would be opened to many of the inconsistencies and defects of their religion ; and that, in consequence, they may be induced to change their faith, and throw oil' the dominion of their priests. These, however, are but groundless fears, for as long as vanity retains its hold in the breasts of the Canadians, and while the clergy continue that indefatigable persever- ance in their ministry, and that unblemished cha- racter and reputation, which distinguish them at present, it is not probable that their parishioners will depart from the religion of their forefathers. The instruction of the French children in the English language, is, therefore, neither difficult, nor liable to any serious objection. That it is a desirable objgct, and highly necessary for politi- cal as well as private reasons, is without doubt: that it is necessary for the dispatch of business, and for the impartial administration of justice, every man, who has been in a Canadian court of law, must acknowledge without hesitation. The marriages of the Canadians are remarkably •J, l\l f i •) ^'iif I ,•■^■•1 *• I !• h : ,1. .^ ,^ ■'A , ji-i < i» I ' * .! fill! '7 !»|i 172 CALA9IILS. for the number of friends, relations, and acquaint tance, who attend the joung couple to the altar. They are all dressed in their Sunday attire, and ride to church in calashes or carioles, according to the season of the year in which it takes place. I have sometimes counted upwards of thirty of these vehicles, each containing three or four peo- ple, one of whom drives. Those who live in the towns, and are married in the morning, often parade the streets with their friends in the after- noon. • The carriages made use of in Canada, are calashes for the summer, and carioles and berlins for the winter. The calash is in general use all over the country, and is used alike by the gentry and Habitans ; only that those belonging to the former are of a superior description. The calash is a sort of one-horse-chaise, capable of holding two persons, besides the driver, who sits in front upon a low seat, with his feet resting upon the shafts. This carriage has no other spring than what is occasioned by two broad leather straps, upon which the body is fixed. These straps are se- cured behind by two iron rollers, by which they are tightened, when too loose. The body of the calash has a wing on each side, to prevent the mud from being thrown in by the wheels. Those of the better sort aiie handsomely varnished and fitted up with linings and cushions, similar to aa English chaise ; the inferior sort used by Ml: CALASHES. 173 the country people, arc roiii>hly bulU, and miser- ably painted ; but as tboy are often tlic workman- ship of the Habitfint himself, much elegance can- not be expected; he has, indeed, considerable merit in accomplishing so much, wilhout the aid of proper instruction. The harness is soniotimes very heavy, and studded with a f»'reat number of brass nails, but that is now nearly exploded, and has given place to a much lighter, and simpler caparison. It is used as well for carts as for the calash, and is several pounds lighter than the cumbersome English collar and harness. Plated harness is used for the best cahishcs, though made in the same simple form, and requires merely a ring and a bolt, which, fastened to each shaft, secures the horse in the cart or calash ; the sleigh or the cariole. This kind of harness being in general use all over the country, i^ extremely convenient in case of accident ; and as the horses are nearly of a size, there is little difficulty in borrowing a horse that will fit your carriage, or a carriage that will fit your horse, and harness that will suit both. The post calashes, which are the very worst of the kind used in the country, are most abomina- ble machines for a long journey. They are most comnionlv driven bv boys, but if you are unfor- tunate enough to have a fat, unwieldy driver sittinc: in front, which is sometimes unavoidable. mm f 1; "ll'.. ii' u * Ilia I Si 11' W'^ ill- • I. / m M ;ifl I ^ '^ ji 4 -4 • -y i.:: 174 CARIOLES. th(! body of the calash leans forward, and ren- ders your seat not only extremely irksome, but also difficult to maintain ; added to which, your shoulders and hips are jolted against its sides without mercy, and your journey, for that stage at least, becomes completely painful and dis- tressing. The carioles nearly resemble the body of a one- horse-chaise, placed upon two runners, like the irons of a pair of skates. They are painted, varnished, and lined like the better sort of ca- lashes. The driver generally stands up in fronts though there is a seat for him similar to that in the calash. Between him and the horse, there is a high pannel, which reaches up to his breast, and prevents the splashes from being thrown into the cariole. The body of the vehicle is some- times placed on hif^h runners of iron, though in general the low wooden runners are preferred, as they are not so liable to be upset as the others. Seldom more tlian one horse is driven in the ca- riole, but llic dashing youths in the army, the govenimont service, or among the merchants, are fond of displaying their scientific manage- ment of the whip in the tandem style. The Habitans make use of an old-fashioned sort oC cariole, called a berlin ; it is better adapted for long journeys, as the sides are higher, and keep the traveller warmer than the other de- scription of carioles. Sleighs are used in the COVERED CilRIOLES. 175 winter, as carts arc in the summer, for the trans- portation of goods. Tliej arc formed of a cou- ple of low runners, with boards fastened across. The goods are kept from falling off by half-a- dozen sticks, which are fixed at the sides and corners of the sleigh, and fastened together at top by rope or twisted twigs. The horses are obliged to have several little bells fastened to their harness in winter, in order to give notice to others of their approach ; for the carioles and sleighs proceed with such rapidity, and make so little noise over the snow, that many accidents might occur in turning the corner of a street, or on a dark night, if the alarm was not given by the jingling of the bells. Covered carioles resemble the body of a post- chaise or chariot, placed upon runners ; they have doors at the sides, and glasses in the front, but are never used, except for the purpose of going to an evening ball, or entertainment ; for the pleasure of carioling consists principally in seeing and being seen, and therefore the open one, though it exposes the person to the severest wea- ther, is always preferred. There is hardly a Habitant in Canada who does not keep his horse and cart, calash, and ber- lin. Carters are also numerous in the towns, and caUshes or carioles, &c., may be hired of them at a moderate price. They stand in the market-places^ both winter and summer, looking ■it ..y-. '. A » \\ a { I .!f« ^^W -f ■'Wf II IM ^ I s 176 LAWS OF TME ROAD. out for employment. Tlnir lioist^s are generally in ^ood condition, thoiii;h IJKMr labour is hard, and their treatment severe. In Canada, as well as in some parts of the United States, it is a custom amon*;- the people to drive on the right side of the road, whit h to the eye of an Englishman has a very awkward appearance*; for in his country *' The laws of the road are a paradox quite. For when you are travelling along ; If you keep to the left you're sure to be right, W you keep to the right you'll be icrong." From what cause the custom originated in America, I cannot say, but I have observed that in the winter season the driver frequently jumps out of the cariolc on the right side, in order to prevent it from upsetting in places where the road is narrow, and the snow uneven ; this may possibly have given rise to their driving on the right side of the road, though I think the same thing might be accomplished as easy on I'lO left. That which from necessity had become a lial)it in the winter, was not easily laid aside in the sum- mer ; and coiisequently settled into a general cus- tom, which was afterwards fully established by law. Acts of the legislature in the United States, as well ai in Canada, now compel people to drive on the right hand side of the road. The French Canadians are remarkably civil to each other, and bow and scrape as they pass livil to pass JOUHS ouos. 17 alon«: the streets. When [ have seen a couple of carnieii, or peasants, cap in hand, with !)0(liL>s bent to each ollif ' I liavc often pictured to my imiginatioii; the curious eflect which vuch a scene \^ ould have in the streets of London, be- tween two of our coal-porttrs or dray iiieu. Sometimes I have seen the men kiss each oilier on the cheek, but the practice is not in u;cticral use. They are extremely civil and polite to strangers, and take off their cap to every person, indifferently, whom they pass on the road. They seldom quarrel but when intoxicated ; at other times they are good humoured^ peaceable^ and friendly. They arc fond of dancing and entertainments^ at particular seasons and festivals, on which oc- casions, they eat, drink, and dance in constant succession. When their long fast in Lent is con- eluded, they have their "jours gros", or days of feasting. Then it is that every production of their farm is presented for the gratification of their appetites; immense turkey-pies; huge jo? its of pork, beef, and muttoii ; spacious tureens of soup, or thick-milk; besides fish, fowl, and a plentiful supply of fruit-pies decorate the board. Perhaps fifty or a hundred sit down to dinner ; rum is drank by the half- pint; often without water; the tables groan with their load, and the room resounds with jollity and merriment. N.) sooner, however, does the clash of the knives ami >0L. I. « 'i\-ui nm ^5 1 m i> ii ■J M'',!.- 'I* . •! I I H^*: i;', IJ ■*v 'Si M * I7S am:< troT£ or the holy water. forks cease, llian the violin strikes up, and tfie (lances commence. jNIinuets, and a sort of reels or jig's, rudely performed to the discordant scrap- ini^s of a couple of vile fitllcrs, conclude the fes- tival, or "jour pros." On Sunda\s and festivals, evcrv one is drest in Iiis l)est suit, and the females v/ill occasionaUy j)owder their h;nr, and paint their cheeks. In this respect they differ but little from their supe- yiors, except that they use hvct-root instead of roua,e. Even tlio men are i^ometimes vain enough to beautify their cheeks with that vege- table. A young fellow who had enlivened his swarthy complexion by a hue glow from the beet- root, most probably to captivate the heart of some fair nymph on a "jour gros", was unfor- tunately so jeered and laughed at by several of lus companions, that the next day he went to hi? priest, to enquire if it was a sin to p:rint \\\& face ; Ihinkinp,-, no doubt, to obtain the sanction of hi€» coufcTisor. Tile ])riest, however, told him thai ihouiih it was no sin, vet it was a very ridiculous Tiinih'. and advised iiim to discontinue it. Superstition is the olf-fpring of the Ilomrm catholic religion, and the Caiui(li;i:is are conse- quently not exempt from it'j in fluei?ee. The wo- men, particularly, ha\e a much larger sliare of it than the men, who trouble themselves lejsi th:in their wives with its peculiarities. Their ladies, in great emergencies, put more faith in holy- OBSERVATIONS ON THE IIABITANS. 179 watcrj candles, saints, and crucifixes, than confi- dence in ilie Saviour himself. A IVieiidot' mine ^vas once present at the house of a French lady, >vhen a violent thundor-s^orm commenced. Tim shutters v>ere immediately, closed, iuid tlie room darkened. The lady of the liouse., not willinj;^ to leave the safety of herself and company to chance, began to search her closets for the bottle of holy water, which, by a sudden (lash of light- ning, she fortunately found. The boi(le was uncorked, and its contents immediately sprinkled over the ladies and gentlemen. It was a most dreadful storm, and lasted a considerable time ; she therefore redoubled her sprinklings and be- nedictions at every clap of thunder, or flash of lightning. At length the storm abated, and the party were providentially saved from its effects ; which the good lady attributed solely to the pre- cious water. But when the shutters v/ere opened, and the light admitted, the company found, to the destruction of their white 2:owns and inus- lin handkerchiefs, their coats, waislcoafs, and brceclies, that instead of holy-water, tlie pious lady had sprinkled tiiem with iiik. The Ilabitans are S'lid to have as iittl? rusticity in their language as in their deportment. The colony was originally peopled by j^o many of the noblesse, disbanded officers and soldiers, iw.d per- sons of good condition, that correct 1.-. jUaoe, oasy and unembarrassed mai»nrrs.. Nverc more liLcIy n2 ^ -M 'tr vi* .. «( ^^f ^!i;l <«.'■ '" «n! » m .5);"' 'i ft; j« J'; 9 1 '»! I it*? I'V' I ' i?''!' < ( '■ MJ 180 ODSERVATIONS ON THE HABITANS, to prevail among the Canadian peasantry, tlian among the common rustics of other countries. Previous to the conquest of the country by the English, the inhabitants are said to have spoken as pure and correct French as in old France : since then they have adopted many anglicisms in Iheir language, and have also several corrupt phrases, which may probably have arisen out of their intercourse with the new settlers. For froid (cold) they pronounce frSte. For ici (here) '■ : VI ■,.|i|iii ' ? 'I R ! ■'I . ... '• lit ,'!' ■■•r '< I ! .1 tt^' hi J" II.! ''J* ^-If^nl >•! 1; 18S ANECDOTE OF A LEfilSLATOK. men will be able to judge of (he utility or in- utility of banks, reiiKiins to be seen. In England, we look upon a menibor of par- liament as a man of superior ability ; at least we respect and venerate liim for tlic high and digni- fied situation which he fills: hut in Canada, a member of the provincial parliament acquires no respect, no additional honor with his situation, liecause neither learning nor ability are requisite to qualify him for a seat in that assembly. If every member, when the oath is administered, was also obliged to write a few lines, and read a page or two in the journals of tl.vO house, the assembly v/ould become honoured aid respected ; its mem- bers would be exalted in the opinion of their constituents; and several French gentlemen, who now sit there, would be sent back to their farms, where they migiU employ themselves more use- fully in feeding pigs, than in legislation. It was wittily enough proposed in the.Quebec Mercury in May !ast, just after the election, to open a semi- nary, or college, for tlie instruction of those mem- bers who were deficient in the necessary qualifi- cations of re.'iding, writing and arithmetic. A friend of mine told me that he once asked a Frenclj member of the provincial parliament for an order ; I forget upon what occasion he wanted it, but the member replied that he c;ould not write: "Oh," says my friend, " I will write it ACTS 0I>' PARLIAMENT. 189 out, and you can make your cross/' — '' Ah, moti J)ieu !" says the legislator, " \iiu'{v Tlicrc^ is silso a |>ioviii( ial judge for llin (lisfrlrt otTliif c Ilivcrs, \vlu» r('sipe, \vhor(sideson(hatL:;()Vcrniiient. !k.udc'st!u/|iul;;Ts there is an attorney-i>;encra!, resident at Quebec, and a soIicitor-g-fMicral, resident at, Montreal. Exclusive of the Courts of Kinp;'s Ijcncli and Coinuion Picas, thi:re is a Court of Appeal, ^vhich sils the first Monday in every montli, as longas business requi-.es. Thiscourtisconiposcdof the g;ovcrnor, or person adininisteringthei!;ovcrn- mcnt, and five or more members of the Executive Council, with tliose judcjes w VIOUS lyi leari or (lerii led ui ho 1 tl lave not I )re- pon the causes \vhich are jippealed. A I'urthcr a[)peal may be made to his Mnjesty \i\ co'-iPicil. The courts of (^^uavier Sessions of the peace are lu'!d four times a vear n' l'h( )1 c police ot yiu bee, Montreal, and Three Rivers, i.s in tlic handi of the iustiees of the ueaco : they aiso re,2:u]at(! (he jy. ice of b;rad every month, and meet once a Vicck {;) t!eteru\ijie pelly causes and olfences under tiii poiiiids. Co'.!ii^(l!i)i^ attend, and argue for I. .J LAWS or LOWEU CANADA. [i)l ice ot* judge tlirro, jy the pjiisiu: (•iii\H • (N)mt ; juul :i jl.ispc, -A. ch and nlli, as oscdof i;ovcrn- H'uiivc pt \nv' \vhich :iadc liJ L peace If (2ne- liiindi ne fot tlu'lr clients, uho Jiri; |)nl to u;rr;it cxpm-sc i'or smninonHc."^, IVrs, iVtr. The wliole of tlio biisi nrss has devoUcd into th(; huiuls of the* tln'oo hki- u;isitratrs, who 4M"ecleil therdilicc lor tho hulchersi ill the I, ppcr Town market-place ; and tlioiurli there anr upwards of thirty jtistices of the peace in (j)u( bcf, yet few, except the triumvirate!, ever act as such. I should have had no otlier o[)por 1 unity of judging of these genthMuen, but l)y their abiblies as surveyors, had not our men frequently obliged us to attend their weekly sittings, where, we wry soon discovered that they decide causes with as much judgment as the; design buildings. The biws of Lower ('anada arc [. The ^'Cou- tunie de Paris" or (-iistom of Paris, as it existed iii France in the year l()(i(), in wbich year Ihe custom was reformed. II. The civil or li(nnan law in cases wIkmc tlie custom of Paris is silent. III. Thecdict"-, declarations, and ordinances of the French gover!U)rs of Canada. IV. The acts of the llritisli parliament made concerning Ca- nada. Y. The English criminal hiw in toto, and the acts of the provincial parlir.njent. This complication of French and Fuglish laws is rendered necessary by the two difi'crent com- munities which exist in Canada, and n^ay be di- \ided iiito four distinct parts, \iz. Tlie criminal, civil, commercial, and maritime laws. The criniiiud law is wholly English, and in its T^ J» M'1 >'\ M : M !"^ ^ It til ^ :j9 I" i'l' IJ*,; '. >; t,,f lit* . ! i ^j f II 19:^ THE KIGHTS OF SEIGNIORS. admiiiistration, all nre uiuversjilly subject to it? operations wiibout distinction of persons. The ciiil law, or compound of laws, regard- ing propertj^, is taken from the ''Coutumede Paris,'* from the civil law of the Romans, of from such edicts, declarations, and ordinances concerning property, as have been made at any time, by the French governors of Canada. To this civil jurisprudence, both the British and French Canadians, ir. certain cases, are subject. Tbese laws embrace a variety of subjects, parti- cularly the feudal tenures, seigniories, fiefs, and estates, held nobly, or by villainage. Moveable or immoveable property, marriage dowers, and community of property between man and wife. The commercial laws relate to mercantile transactions, ai.d are regulated nearly in the same manner as in England ; except that in such cases there are no trials by jury, which are confined only to the criminal law. The maritime law, or Court of Vice- Admiralty, h wholly English. Law proceedings are car- ried on both in English and French. At the tirst settling of the colony, a great error was committed, in granting to officers of the ttrn^y, and gentlemen-adventurers, extensive lots of land called seigniories, many of them from one. to five hundred square miles in size, which were situated on the borders of the River St. Law- rence, from Kamouraska, to several leagik^* RIGHTS OF SEIGNIORS. 193 beyoiul Montreal, comprehentling a distance of more than three hundred miles. These ji^reat proprietors, who were generally men of moderate or small fortunes, and unskilled in ag^riculture, were unable to manage such vast estates : they were, therefore, under the necessity of making over their lands to soldiers or planters, on condi- tion that they should receive a quit rent, and certain services for ever. This was introducing into America a species of tenure somewhat simi- lar to that of the feudal government, which had so long been fatal to Europe. The superior ceded a portion of land to each of his vassals, of about three acres in breadth, and from 70 to 80 in depth, commencing from the banks of the river, and running baick into the woods ; thus forming that immense chain of settlements which now exists along the shores of St. Lawrence. The vassal, on his part, engaged to work at certain periods in the seignior's mill, to pay him annually one or two sols per acre, and a bushel and half of corn, for the whole grant. This tax, though but a small one, maintained a considerable num- ber of idle people, at the expense of the only class with which the colony ought to have been peopled ; and the truly useful inhabitants^ those engaged in laborious employments, found the burden of maintaining a lazy noblesse in- creased by the additional exactions of the clergy. The tythcs were imposed in 1667, and though TOL. J. o m im *' ih » ■ .t r liS Mi '^1 '^t, i. .1(1 ■ J 1 .r ,j ^1 »)! i': ly !' 191 fir,F«. llils p;rit'voufl lax upon industry w^s reduced 1(* a Iw'.'uty-iiftli j)ari of ibc produce of (lie soil, yet, even that, was an (»ppression in an infant colony, and a i*rievance in a country where the clerj^y had property allotted them, sutlicicnt for their maintenance. There are two kinds of tenure in Lower Ca- nada, viz. the feudal tenure, and the tenure in free and common soccage. l»y the first, all the French Canadians hold their lands, under certain distinctions. By free and common soccoge arc held those lands which the liritish settlers have received from the crown, few of them holdin<^ lands under the feudal tenure. In order to give some idea of the feudal te- nure in this country, it will be necessary to give a sketch of the principal chapters of the " Cus- tom of Paris". The first, and most ditJicult, chapter treats of iich, the origin of which is uncertain. Before we come to the d'.'finition of the na- ture, and ditFcreiii. kinds of liefs, it must be ob- served, that estates are divided into t\^o kinds in the Custom of Paris: First, Those held nobly, and Secondhj, Those held by vi!l:jiita;,::e. The estates held nol)ly, arc \{\v (\ck, and Franc aleunohle ; and the estates hild by villainage, are those held subject to cchs or anslvc, and Franc aleu villain. Fief is an estate held anil possessed on condi- ucfil to An\, yet, colony, ! clergy 'or their iwcr Ca- tciuirc in ;t, all the jr ccitaiu ccage arc tiers bavc n holding feudal te- by to give le " Cii3- diflicuU, f which is of the ua- lUst be ob- kinds in nobly, and land Franc linage, are land Franc h on condi" I'lEl'S. 19r> lion of feahy and Injniaj'e, and certain rl<2;lit», payable jj^enerally by the new possessor, io i!ic lord of whom ilie fief is held; tbesc rii^hty are quint and relief. The qniut is llie fifth part of tlic ]>nrcliasc nionry, and nnist be ]>aid by the pnrchaser: this is soin(iNvbat similar to tlic fine of alienation, wbicli, by the ancient English tenure, was paid to the lord upon every muta- tion of the tenanCs property. In England, it was only strictly cxa( ted by tlic king's tenants, in ca- pilc, common persons being exempted by stat. IS. Edward I. llelicf is the revenue of one year, due to tin; lord (or certain mutations, as if a tief conies to a vassal by succession in the direct line, there is nothing due to the seignior but fealty and homage; but, if in the collateral line, then a fine or composition is paid to the lord upon taking up the estate, which was lapsed or fallf i by the death of the last tenant. The feudal lord, within 40 days after the pur- chase of a tief has been made known to him, can take it to himself by paying to the purchaser the price which he gave for it, with oil lawful charges. This privilege, enjoyed by the feudal lord, ( and in Canada by the king,) is for the pur- pose of preventing frauds in the disposal of fiefs; for it has sometimes happened, that by an un- derstandino; between the buyer and seller, the (luint or fifth has been paid upon only one-half. or even a (quarter, of the purchase money, instead o2 rt m i'i ,1 1% IlEiS. of llic whole. By llic ri^L/, fhrjclbrc- wljicli Ujc lord possesses of purchasing the property hiiiiscir, whenever the; noiiiiiial sum is not equal to the \aluc ol' the f^ef, he immediately ascer- tains the actual amount of the purchase money, and cither receives (he whole of the fifth share, or takes the property into his own hands, at a price considerably below its real value, if the fine is paid immediately, only one-third of the quint can be demanded. The succession to fiefs is different from that of property, held en roturc, or by villainage. The eldest son takes by riglit the chateau or principal manor-house, aiul the yard adjoining' to it; also an acre of the garden joining to the manor-house. If there are any mills^ ovens, or presses, within the seigniory, they belojig to the eldest son; but the profits arising from the mills (whether Ciun- mon or not) and from the ovens and prcs.s, if common, miist be equally divided amoug the heirs. Vi hen there ure ouly two heirs coming to thy succession, the eldest son, takes, besides the ma- nor-house &c., two thirds of the fief; and the voun«:eat son takes the otluir Ihir;!: ijul whc:i there are more tluui tv\ o lieiry. the elder sou tai.c- the one half, and the oihei beir^-; lake the reuiaiu- ing half. \V hen there are iuily daugliu^r,; es);;.'.- ingto tlie succession, the lief is cqudiy divided among them, the eldost daughler iia\ ing i^o hi; ili- ^. .1. SUCCtSSION TO ESTATES. 197 wliiclt opcr\ver of the seigniors, knust be reduced, and the people in- volved in litigation and disputes. Hence the noblesse arc now nearly reduced to the conmioii mass of the vulgar, and the Habitans make but COiMMUNITY or PROPIiUTV BY MAIUtlAGE. 199 little progress towards tlic acquisition of property and power. With respect to the division of j)roportv in general, according to the civil law of Canada, it consists of moveable, and immoveable property. Moveable property is any thing that can be moved without fraction. Immovable property is any thing that cannot be mo\ed, and is divided into two kinds, proprcs, and acqitits (acquisi- tion). Propre is an estate which is acquired by suc- cession in the direct, or collateral, line; and acquit is an estate, or property, that is acquired by any other means. - , Communitij of property, is the partnership which husband and wife contract on mjirrying; but they may stipulate in their marriage-con- tract, that there shall be no community of pro- perty between them. .. . The dot, or dowry, is all the property w hich the wife puts into the commnuUij, whether moveable or immoveable. Kut immoveable property fail- ingtoherina direct, or collateral line, is a propre, or real Cjlato to her, and does not fall into the 9ommwiitij . The doner is a certain right given to the wife by lavv, or by particular agreement; it is of two kinds, the cimlomary dower, and the stipulated doxccr. The former consists of lialfthe property wlsich the husband was possessed of at the time I,:- 4(14 1;^ It 1' ii :lhf- "^ 'It m\H •' t mih^ , 'J I » .£, *\^ » . life ■!, » it 4 nib r < nni 1 1 ijif! Jm y< ,'* >)ti :i!i 200 COMMUNITY OF PnOPEFlTY nv MA«RIAtiK. of their mariinp^c, and Kialfof all property which may conic to him in a direct lino. The stipulated dozver is a certain sum of money, or portion of property, which the liu.ihand g-ivcs instead of the customary dower. The widow has only the use of the customary doivcr during^ her life me of (hem cither study law in I'jngland, or under the attor- ney and solicitor-^i^cncrals, in Caiuuh*, who are kVenerally men of ((ui.slderahle ability, and exten- Hve practice. The Canadian lawyers are iini excelled in tljc art of charaioo* even bv ihpiv brethren ii] England. Their fee? are hiii^h, though regulated, in some measure, by the coiut. No- taries charge 2bs. merely for making a protest: they are always accompanied by a brother no tary, who receives 75. Gd. for his walk, and f(U' nviL roNfinQiJENCEs OF unixG at ixw. 205 Htlostin<;' ihc. si2;ii!ilurc to tlic protest. Tciiaci- oiis astlic l!:ihitaiis arc of their money, they are o[U'i\ involvt'il ill litigatioii, and (he young ad- vocaljs know liovv to avail thcinsclve::) of the ia:- iioraiiee of tlieir dieiHs. " To he at law," says Montesquieu, ' is a vvrtitehed eondition of life; tlie title aeeonipanic^ a man to Iiis last moment; it descends to hi4 posterity, and passes from one descendant to ano- ther, until the iinal extinction of tiie unfortunate family. Poverty seems always attached to thaf, melancholy title. The strictest justice can pre- vent only a part of its misfortunes ; and such is the state of thirii^s, that the formalities intro- duced for the preservation of public order, arc now become the scourge of individuals. Lo«al industry is become the scoiu'i\e of fortune, as well as commerce and agriculture : oppression there looks for food, and chicane brings on the ruin of llie unfortunate litigant. The injusti^Cj i'cc- qii'Mitly, is not in the judgment, but i.i the delay : the gaining of a suit often does more injury, than would a contrary prompt decision. Honest men, licretofore, brought rogues before the tri- bu.nils, but now, the rogues there sue honest iren. TIic trustee denies his trusty in the hope tli.it timid right will soon cea^c to denund jus- tice' ; and tJieravishcr acquaints the object of hi? ^! oltujco, tljat it would be imprudent to cdl him lo ;u! aicouiU for his iran^ii-ressiun.** '1 '."iUf-i \ ,» V » ' 1 >■ r 'ii'-i lit i f N r Iff ■ ' 1 Jl'i- HW or ■4, J lb-; if i"' I 206 CHIEF JUSTICE ALLCOCK. The truth of the preceding observations, will bf* readily admitted by every man who has had any tliinj^ to do with the law. It is, hewever, easier to expose evils than to remove them ; and it is but a poor consolation, to grieve over that which we cannot remedy. The law in Canada is extremely tedious ; but, to compare it with the law of Scotland, and the English court of Chan- cery, is to com pare the fleetncss of the hare witu the sluggish motion of the snail. Among the judges in Canada, the late chief justice Allcock shone conspicuously for learn- ing, and profound knowledge of jurisprudence. His abilities, as a lawyer, were equalled only by his upright conduct as a judge. In all his deci- sions he tempered the law with equity ; a pro- c(icding highly necessary in such a country as Canada, wlrere, from the anomalies of the French ciyil law, and the illiteracy of the great body of the people, it is ditficult to render justice to waiom it is due. Mr. Sewell, the late attorney-general, suc- ceeded to Mr. AUcock's situation. He is a gen- tleman of considerable talents, and thoroughly conversant with the practice of tlic Canadian laws. The attorney-generalship being thus va- cated, it was not found a very easy matter to fill it vith abilities equal to Mr. Sew ell's, and for some tiiiie the solicitor-general, and all the En- glish advocates, were upon the qui virc, each EXPENSES OF THE GOVERNMENT. 207 expectirg that he should he the happy man : hut His Excellencj Sir James Craig;, to the confusion of many, and the astonishment of all, appointed Mr. Bowen, one of the youngest advocates of Quebec, of course not an experienced civilian, but possessed of very respectable talents and acquirements. The salary is not moie tlsan 300Z. per annum, but the government-practice, attached to the situation, is considered worth more than 2000/. per annum, independent of the private practice. Mr. Bowen, however, received the si- tuation, Giily upon the condition of his giving up the latter, and attending for three years wholly to the government business, after which he was at liberty to resume it. This appointment, and the conditions upon which it was given, afford a certain proof of his Excellency's desire to en- courage merit, and to benefit the public service.* The expenses of the civil list, in Lower Cana- da, amounted in the year 1807 to 44,410Z. 3.s. Irf], sterlinp;: about three-fourths Of this sum arc defrayed by the province, out of the king's do- mains, and duties payable on the importation of certain articles into Lower Canada ; the re- mainder is supplied by Great Britain, who also supports the protestant clergy, the military, and Indian establishments. In order to afford a clear * Since then, a new attorney-general has been sent out by Lord Castlereayh to supersecle Mr. Bowen ! ^;i Ki ''IM' ■iii 11 r j^«l kilm 'H if e ' ',1 '^ i "^If! ^'!" -IS :iii A 208 RECEIPTS, &C. OP THE GOVERNMENT. idea of the expenses of the government of Lower Canada, I shall present the reader with the fol- lowing statement of receipts and expenses, upon an average of three years, from the time the new constitution took place, in 1791 to 1803. Since which the expenses have augmented but little. I r X H .1 • '^^ 1 1 .^if n ■ «* r^ KECEIPTS &C.J OF LOWKR CANADA. ^09 ^ o o o o 1 pw 1"* O •* Oi O 00 »-«« 5' -IT o ^s ^^ . O O O O 1 t- « oc «0 « O "O f M •}« 0^ "1" « -! " ' »o ^^ f-H .^ PH f^ ? . O O O CO ■r- .-5 <0 lO >0 01 — o ^"L "S*" .00 <- an ^'or ^ •-^ y^ "T •*< ^CflO I- j 1 uf'O •* "O 1 1 1" j m •r ^ 01 o» .; ^=^2 12 1 1 « c> 2 z: 1 ' :: 1 » Ci 0< c ■^ « (C 0< Ci or to -4" « 0» o« 01 -,o 1 1 1 12 ^111 1-^ »o X , oc . ^'^ 1 1 1 1 1 12 2 1 i M 1 01 !>• ^ 1 «1 * • O J >0 01 "^ ■4> 55 o - '^2 « rp «o 'C o o =a 00 0^ *- =1 OJ, ^ »-• I-t" 01 or 04 0< 1 i 1 1 1 « 1 1 • 1 • • 1" 1 {0 I 1 1 J 1 • an o 4> •s C • 1 'X c CIS OS H .£ -rt S 15 1 1 1 J I . •^ ' . a . . . o . . 4-« o uT 1 1 o ■ s .s H *u • ■ I 1 4 • « 1 ^ s 1 n I I 1 "S I 1 •.= bo - o (S ' ' • 2 ' • lA • •III! 8*2 s si" .2* *. o '3 • 1 • 1 1 i 1 X 1 , 5; I 1 t 1 1 1 s t 1 I 1 ■ 1 1 • 1 1 1 1 s ~. 3 c S n tT c o c ^ r: •- '^ «< o o «U 1 ^ 4-< — « ^ '5 1 c —1 2 a. ' § a 1 Sis v- = « = := ^=* 3 , pJ 05 ^ ca P^ ;? -i^ 3 s c c a c a " 3 5 *> > p ST to 6 « r i4t£t^QUJ q,. 9 O C O O O i: < .!j ., :*■« I'l'il "'l^' I' ( r- '^\ iL') H'iS M i:H< li; f » VOL. I. o 210 iORGES OF ST. MAURICE. .1 ) 'if i ■. ' I'M mi II f'W ^1 hy the prccedini^ table of receipts and ex* pciises of the civil governmcntj it appears that the forges of St. Maurice, at Three River •-, whicli belong to the king, have risen considerably in value, and that in 1T98 they brought no more than 20/. 16s. Sd. per annum, whereas in 1803, they let to Messrs. .Munro and Bell, merchants of Quebec, for 850/. per annum ; these gentle- men had a lease for three years, and the concern answered so well, that they laid out large sums of money upon the property. In 1800 the lease expired, and was agaiu put up to public sale, when the same gentlemen received the forges with a lease of twenty years for the paltry sum of 60/. per annum ; they were the only bidders, through some accident which prevented another rrcrchL..it from attending the sale ; but I was told fbit i!.ry Jntfindcd to have bid as far as 1200/ rn iii'ium lor it, rather than have let it f^D out oi Ihfir ! ands. How this transaction bss beoii 5ii:aia,^jC'i, IS yet a mystery ; the fault onn at!?u:li only to those who dispost d of flic jircperiv i-^ sulIi i biiamefiil manner, hv which 'fUbh . ! ' ! n\>:\\f\ rt tiin a loss of22,8(J0/. fli:ctiia.i.ion of the droits de cpjint, oi uiuis, iifO!: 'Ir^ iiiie G 'fiefs, which I have bet\)rc jioliced. 12 tAiy €xev»plified in those of the I'oyii doiiaias meuii >i^cd in tlie table, ay here it rj.p5;c.irE '^^L:d r.Q less than 3,828/. I3s. I Id. were ■cc(j:\cd lu 1 /9y, and in the year ISOJ, onh L « ALAR IKS. 211 "2631. 0,s\ The king's poi^ls arc iradinp; |)hu<^.s for furS;, and arc now in the hands of the North West company; they have also risen in value far ahovc the annti;;! rent paid lor tlicm, and when the leases are out, will no doubt bring- a very considerable swiu, j/ro\i(iin5?; tiicy are not disposed of like the forges of St /vlaiirice. Among- the articles upon v\hieh duties liave been laid, both by ti'.e provincial aiul iiiiperiil parliamenl!5, rum is lije most pioductive ; and iu the course of ei;»lit years, the duty lias more than doubled itself. Ft is frequently rt tailed at 55. per gallon, and mighl yrt bo:u' an additional duly that would make up the deficiency in tiie reve- nue, for the support of tlie civil government, which is at present supplied by C^reat Britain. Salaries of the tUJtr>nt Ojficen bt^lon-jing 'o i.he Goi-prnment of Loicer Ctinndu, In Sterling, Monfij. I. •],()'ja '1 00 100 1,590 1,10 J Govei'iior General, if nbaer.t, 2/)00/. — rcsidivit i/ietilenant Govern.or, diiio :>,\K)ul.~ ditto Lieutenant Govei'nor uL t.i.i'-pc . _ - . Tbe Members oi liie Execriive C;)tv,x;l, avSn Ciiierju:;tiee of Quebec iW.A iht i'rovince Chief Justice of Montreal- _ . _ . Seven puisne .Tud:Te:;, invludiiivr ll;.:;! S.il.ni^s M Counsei- lors, each - - 850 Provincial Judge of Three Rivers - - - _ 50O Provincial Judge of Gaspe - , - _ . 2OO Attorney-General — salary 300/.— Governnieni Praciire 2,00(/ Solicitor-General — salary 200/. — Y) \\u - L.^DO Jiv.lge of the Vic<.' AjJaiiralty Co'.:rt • • .. :i()ij P 1^^ '1 ' W ^M, ■nr'. ' 'I* 212 SALARIES. I. Protestant Bishop of Canada - . - - 3,500 , Twelve Protestant Clergymen, each from - 200 to 500 Provincial Secretary - - . . - - 40O Secretary to the Governor, Clerk to the Crown in Chan- cery, and Clerk to the Executive Council ; which three places are held by one person - - - - 800 Assistant Secretary ------ 200 Clerk in the Chateau Office - . - - 120 French Translator to fhe Government - - - 200 Provincial Aide de Camp ----- 200 Adjutant General of the Militia - - - - 200 Receiver General ------ 400 Superintendant General of the Indian Department - 1,000 Storekeeper General of the Indian Department - 350 Inspectors and Cultivators of Hemp, each - - 200 Inspector General of Accounts - . _ . 300 Surveyor General ------ 300 Deputy Surveyor General - - - - - 150 Grand Voyer of the Province . - - . 500 Grand Voyer of Quebec, and Superintendant of Post- Houses --_-_-_ 250 Grand Voyer of Montreal, 150Z. — Three Rivers, QOl. Gaspe -------- 50 Inspector General of Forests, and Inspector of Police at Quebec 300 Inspector of Police at Montreal - - - - lOO Inspector of Chimnies at Qu(;bec, 60l. — Montreal, 60L — Three Rivers ------- 15 Naval Officer at Quebec - - - - - 100 Harbour Master of Quebec - - - - - 1 00 Interpreters to the Indians, each - - - - lOO Sheritfs at Quebec and Montreal lOOZ. each, perquisites 1,500 Sheriff at Three Rivers 50/. perquisites - - 500 Sheriff at Gaspe 40^ perquisites - - - 200 Coroners at Quebec and Montreal, each - - 50. Pensions to various persons about - - - 2,000 TAXES. 213 Exclusive of tlie exnenses far the civil esta- blisliiiKjiit of Lower Caiiuda;, which are chiefly (lefravcd hy the province, tlie British govern- iiieiit is at considerable expense for the mainte- nance of t!ie Eii£;,lish clcrt^-y, the distribution of presents to '(■.If ' ^ '^li f^l' 1^1 ill ^M i- ;l '.^ i|i|rl 210 COMMERCE OF LOWER CANADA. CHAPTER XIT. Commerce of Loxvcr Canadti'^Setllcment of the French in the Couiitrij'-^Situaiiou of the Co-^' lony in 11 Gb^-^ Improper Conduct of the Bri" li.sh Traders — Dissatisfciclion of the Canadian Noblesse and Peasantry^^Gcneral Murray's Letter to the Lords of the Couficil'-'Tahle of Imports and Exports of Canada, from 1754 to 1807 — Progressive Increase of Commerce—^ Wheat — Exports of J 80S — Residence of the Governor- general, necessary for the Welfare of the Colony — Fur- Trade — J\Ir. M'Tavish — North' West Company — Michillimakinak Company — Outrage committed by the Ameri- cans on Lake Ontario, The commerce of Canada, previous to the conquest of the country by the English, was trifling and unimportant^ and the balance of trade considerably against the colony. It is only within the last thirty years, that it has become of suliicient magnitude \o chiim the attention of enterpri/ing individuals, and to be of political importance to the mother-country. It was, perhaps, an unfortunate circumstance for Canada, that it was colonized by the French, >\hoare a people little qualified for agriculture. SETTLEMENT OF f HE FRENCH IX CANADA. 217 and less for commerce. Their flisihtv and vola- tile imaginations having been cliecked by the disappointment of not discovering gold or silver mines, bj' which they had promised themselves the immediate possession of immense riches^ they conld ill brook a residence in suih a dreary country, where the ground >vas covered one half the year \>it!i snow. Agriculture, with them, was a nnifter of nc- cfssity, rather than of choice, and it is possible that they were very ignorant of that art. The first settlers being com})OKed chiefly of soldiers, and men of a roving and adventurous spirit, very steady or regular habits could not be ex- pected from them. Thfc chase, therefore, oll'ered greater charms than the slow and tedious process of agriculture; and few could be found who did not prefer tlie gun to the plough. The prodi]ce of the chase, not only supplied them with provisions, but also willi clothiiig; and in a short time the peltry wliich ihcy pro- cured in their excursions, came to be estimated at its proper value, and ailorlvd (liem a \ery pro- iitable articie for <'\portation to the mother- country. The fore^r-. i'idepeiulent of their ani- mal productions^ {.bounded v.ith incxhaur^tible quantities of valuable lind)er; and the seas, ri- vers, and lakes, were equally abundant in every species and variety of tisb. Tliese articles, with a few other ualural productions, formed the V » •• ^:i.:' i ! !■ 1 1 !.' j } iri^ r' Ill JilS SITUATION ()l«' THE COLONV IN Hiij. only Rourc'p of tracks in i\\v colony ff>r nearly o century and luilf, and they vvcmc lar from hv'iuir ♦MjuivaliMit lo ,reatly exceeded their incomes, and re- duced the credit of the colony to a very low ehl?. A \.uieJy of expedients were proposicd and adopted, to remedy this defect; atnoui;- the rest, was the is^juinj*; of paper-money, which in a few years accuinidated so rapidly^, that scarcely any coin was to be tiund in the country. French 8015, consist! n. !i 1 Of the situation of the colony in 170)5, ajjoiit %i\ years after (lie capture of Quebec, a very arciiratc account lias been p;iven by CJencral Murray, at that time ii;overnor and commantlei- iu-chief, in a letter to the lords of trade and plan- tations. A long warfare, and Ihc subsequent conquest of the country, luifl dislressed and a;?;!- lated the minds of the iiiliabilajiLs, wlio saw Ihrm- 5elves reduced to snbieetiou, and jx^^veincd bv a handful of men. The noble oc and cleri^y i\'\i^ their pride hurt, and themselves lunnbled by the loss of their power and inllucncc air.on^; the people; ar.d the people, ex po^ieii ti> l!ie action of laws and regulations wilh whleli they were un- acquainted, or which they comprcheiuied witli difliculty, became reetleas und uneasy unJuT a govfrument diOering so essentially fioir. their own. It seldom happen<^ th.it innovations in t!ic laws and government of a eoui^try, however l:e- uefieial they may eventually prove, -.re ulte.ided in their outset with pearealilc arquieseeneeontbe part of tlie people ; and iii a snhj:iga1ed eoualrv cspeeiaily, a very ready comj;Iianee with ib,^ will of tlse con(iuer{)j's, can liardlv b-^ expected from the c():iqu.erei{. Time, v,])iv'h guierallv- annihilate.i, or soi'ieKS, all aniiji^^ity mid discon- tent aif.u'ds ihc only rhanee (sf nucin^M. Tbc pecu}iarilie.s of tem])er arid opinion, are frradii- ully worn away by promiseuoiis* eoj'veis", .'>k angular bix'ie^. and uneven :~:{:-ru'Ci bj-c ii^clv ■^ H *.„ m%i 1 r 5,; tfi.- : Mi t, ( h if* 'i ill ".M' ^ 5v ' 'if "' tfcV 1 ;? i ^ I f:f: I, ^ ■n,.ii 1 r ,:'-t 220 GENERAL MUllRAY S LETTER. polnis and asperities, by fieqwent attrition against each otherj and approach hy degrees to uniform rotundity. Tile hotter, to which I have alluded, was writ- ten by (jeneral Murray, soon after his jin ival in England, in 1766, in which year he left the government of Canada. As it is an official pa- ])cr, its accuracy of course, may be depended on. 1, therefore, a\ail myself of the opportunity to biy it before my readers, as it atfords a better picture of the situation of aflkirs in the pro- vince at that period, than any other account I have met with. " My Lords, ** In Mr. Secretary Conway's letter to me of the 24th Oc- tober, l/G-J, 1 am ordered to prepare for my return to Eng- land, in order to give a full and distinct account of the pre- sent state of the province of Quebec } of tho> nature and account of the disorders which have h.appened there ; and of ray con- duct and proceedings in the administration of the government. In obedience to that command, I have the honor to report as follows : — and first the state of the province : " It consists of one hundred and ten parishes, exclusive of the towns of Quebec and Montreal. These parishes contain t^722 houses, and 54,57o Christian souls j they occupy, of ara- ble lani, g55,754 aipents. They sowed in the ytar 170'5, JS0,300~- minots of grain, and that year they possessed 12,546 oxen, 22,721 cows, 15,039 young horned cattle, 27,Oa-l sheep, 2S,()7u swine, and 13,75/ horses, as appears by the annexed recai)itulation (recenscmcnt) taken by my order, in the year 17Ci5. The towns of Quebec and Montreal, contain about 1*1,700 inhabitants. The Savages, v.ho are called Roaian- iv? GENERAL MURRAY S LETTER. 22\ catholics, living within the limits of tlie province, consist of 7,'UX) souls : so ihiiS the whole, exclusive of" the king's troops, do amount to 70/275 souls ; of which, in the p.irislics are l() protcstant families ; the rest of that pcrsu.-.sion (a few half- pny ofncers excepte'l") are traders, mechanics, and publicans, >vho reside in tlie low towns of Quebec and Monlr?al. iVIost of them were followers of the army, of merm educa- tion, or soldiers disbanded at the reduction of the troops. All have their fortunes to make, and Ifctr, few are solicitous about the means, when the erd atn he attnincd. I report them to be in general, the most immnrnl collection of men f ever knew: of course, little calculated to make the new subjects ena- moured with our laws, religion, and customs ; and far less pdapted to enforce these laws, which are to govern. " On the other hand, the Canadians, accustomed to arbitrary, and a sort of military government, are a frugal, industrious, and moral race of men, v/ho, from the just and mild treatment they met with from his Majesty's military officers, that ruled the country for four years, until the establishment of civil govern- ment, had greatly got the better of the natural antipathy they had to their conquerors. " They consist of a noblesse, who are numerous, and who pique themselves much upon the antiquity of their families, their own military glory, and that of their ancestors. Ihese noblesse are seigniors of the whole country, and though not rich, are in a situation in that plentiful i;art of tlie world, where money is scarce, and luxury still unknown, to support their dig- nity. Their tenants who pay only an annual quit-rent of about a dollar for one hundred acres, are at their ease, and comforl- able. They have been accustomed to respect, and obey their noblesse 3 their tenures beuig military in the feudal manner, they have shared with them the dangers of the field, and natu- ral alt'ection has been increased in projwrtion to the calamities which have been common to both, i -om the conquest uf the country. As they have been taught to respect their su])erior.s, and are not yet intoxicated with the abuse of libcriy, they ar« -t, 1.1; • ■ *'ii 111.'! An tm -^ iy: '*M' 1l ■'. ll! ■iii I SI;; i ■ ■if ill I" it? I ^^>i^ p ? ♦ I r 1.:. '^JH; • H! Iff:: m 'i" li \^ h ri! s: ssa* GENERAL MUUUAY S LILTTER. ■;:i ihc value of them cIcpi^iitlLcl upon tlic fees, which by my in- structions I was oruea-d to establish, e(]nal to those oi" the richest ancient colony. I'iiis heavy tax, and the rapacity of the English lawyers, were severely fell by the pour Canadians ; but they patiently submitted, and though stimulated to dispute it by some of the licentious traders from New-York, they cheerfully obeyed the stamp-act, in hopes that their good be- haviour would recommend them to the favor and protection of their sovereign. *' As the council-books of the province, and likewise my answers to the complaints inade against my iidministration, have been laid before your lordships, it is neeiiless to presume to say any thing farther on that sabjtcl, than that I glory in having been accused of warmth and firauu^ss in protecting the king's Canadian subjects, and of doing the utmost in my power to gain to my royal iiiaster, the. o (lections of that brave, hardy people, whose cnugratiov, if ever it should happen, will he an irreparuble loss to this empire; to prevent which, I de- clare to your lordships, I 'Would cheerfully submit to greater calumnies and indignities (if greater can be devised) than hitherto I have undergone. " I have the honor to be. Sec." From the contents of this letter, it appears evident that mnrh cordiality could not exist between the French inhabitants, and the British settlers. The former, were a people who prided themselves on their ancestry, and consequently despised the latter, who were of mean birth, and possessed of still meaner abilities. The mutual disgust and jealousy which were thus created, tended very considerably to depreciate the state of the colony for some years : commerce declined rather than increased, nor did she raise her droop- rng head, till order and regularity were introduced im TABLE or IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. 225* ly 111- V ihc ity uf l'uvui5 ; ispvite , they )d bc- .iou of ■ise my tration, lesunie ;lory in ting the in my it brace, >eH, will ch, I de- ) greater :d) than jj) pears exist irilisli ipiided luently [h, and Inutual rcatcd, le state lidined Iroop- )duced into the government, and its aflairs were con- ducted by men of talent and worth : british sub- jects were then induced to emigrate to Canada, and em])ark their property in speculations which have since raisrd tho colony to an unexampled state of prosperity. The following' table of imports and exports will exhibit the progressive augmentation of commerce, from the year 1754, to the present period. I have only enumerated the principal staple commodities which are exported ; the other colonial produce is included with the furs v.hich have always formed the chief support of the colony. VOL, I. *♦! ^ r '1 ■;■' 41 til'' ■inilfe !,.& ?■« 726 TABLE OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. ^> ^ 2 § e i c CO o 00 in »^ B e e c ■ ci c IS C O X C i S 'O CO '«f (M In. »o •^ ,^ o '-.« J «S o o In. »o o wmd "" *^ -t ri ~5- •o •o ^^. 'O r^ — ** o I-, O o CD O O ^^ O f! Hen -Si 0) CO • ■—■•-' J2 CO •— flj . « *^ <« — ? (U rl o c I 4> O '3 s «o ^ w J tr a - .t: o ^ C -^ = r-* Cl i c fcO c W S o ■J^ ' '^ 1 -.* o /I •o 1 'v y * ^4 CO o E I I r: 1 1 ! CO c c "o U -a *i o 1.1 O at a ca P4 w o -2 .« t3 « o c: -6 pa r3 ^3 C "to o S-i o e-. B TABLE OP IMPORT! AND EXroRTfl. 00 C3 •-< o c yD <1 o o • o o o o o o o ifl o I— I -« I 5 = j 50 o o ifs o o o o to »* o o o o 3;(0 CO T -f 'O _ 9, "^^ "1 ^^ ^ "f irf m" di *m Ci ■^ CO ri CO CI )-■ s S -3 O O .>- >- lT ■J' - o a o > c 5S •o -XI 4^ §1 1 ! I V'* 227 o o CO >< a O o M ■*•» <*^ O a « • U 'T3 o 'S 3 a re 1 J a 01 a 3 C ^ a a B s o o o o t> l-l s w< !> U^ fe PE4 U4 i« Ul ■J) 1 1 ' a' m '« r-. •^^3 r^ i ' II m 'i. U^ :» I 'i5i^^ L Ha Jf ? i4 '^ ^S8 TABLE OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. (U o S a 0<5 W i-J O 00 1-1 2 o a> 4> O V I O to o t>. --» O t* O o -< ►o ■* iM >o •C CD CO to *» *» "N "X •% ■^ Tj" M o -< ^1 .— 1 ^-1 «-• >-< CO O o "3" o CO •0 CO O u Oh I o C3 c« ^ "3 U ID "T3 '-I O •T3 ^ 3 tH-C W a 3 C 3 to 3 U5 0) CI C 03 ■t-i O (U a 3 S 3 o o In. 8B u ^ 2 II o^ o o o t>i o ^» o 8 O CO •\ ff\ *» A C> CJ> Oi CO M CO M O S a> 0) cj en ^ §^ So -Or*" u 0) J3 0) 3 GI 6 o 1-1 c c s o CA CO a B « 3 o en «>> •«-^ Ih l-l O o CLi p- X EW 1 ail II o ^ I E I I |l M I i i II li S' I i II i 1. I II II CO s CO ' U o u O U '/: 2 '^ SB g X -< rt 9. >< TABLE OF IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. fm ;-■ o § o o o o o -i< o o o o c o o o o o o o §5 o O 'O *\ M •s O --^ t^ fO — — lo O CO c^ o o o o o o o o IS u .2 S ^ o w -2 OJ c/l o - - -5. J^ lU 53 3 C 4-1 r> W « J3 Is. 0) I Cz. o a -a a o o O o 8»\ o CO m 8 ^ fl 4-1 o O g « o H o o o o o o u l-l en a 9 . (A U P •» « > o 1 to H C/3 < « ^^ 0} c S § Ph T3 •» -a 5 a u \;i :tl it'}' ' . r'f- I 5j^' '«^ »/' ' , ''.;i! ■4 I •1 ■i :'.■ 230 PROGRESSIVE IVCREASH OF COMMEUCE. Tliis tiiblo of Imp'^'ts and cqtorts Is dcrivod from ollicial (lodiiiiculs, but for tlu; vcars I7!)7, 1807, and 1^08, the amount of Ww. v\\mrH were not mentioned in tlie lists publislied liy the Custom-lmuse, at Quebec ; 1 liavc, liuwevc r, been able to ascertain tbe sums by die priee enr- rent for tbose years, and I bavc reason to believe, tbere are but a ftw pounds diircrence, eitber one way or tbe otlier, wbeu tbe amount of tbe ex- ports istiiken in (be aggrei^ate. The progresisivc improvement of comtncree is siril\in«^ly exempli- fied in tbe expord only by (ho large sums expended for tbe military e.^tablisli- inent, the" support of the government, and the building of sbips, for the s(;rvi e of tbe French government in Europe, vvbieb were paid for by bills drawn on the treasury of France. In I7(>i>. commerce ap[iears to have increased more rapidly than could bave been expected, and- if the amount of exports tor tliat year can be dej)cnded on, a balance remained z;.'/7/iY?r of the colons, pf 8 1, (.100/. sterling. pfior.urssivi: ixrur.AsE ov commerce. 331 At. that period, nm\ for sevtTal }cars subse- quent, tlio ()rincij)al articles of export, consisted of peltry, liiniher, oil, anil DAi, with asuiall quan- titity of trinsen}:; and (ajjillairc : tlicsc were ship- ped from Quebec", Labrador, and (Jaspe. ^Vith- iii the last twenty years, new staples have arisen^ which have been exported to very large amounts, and |)roniise to enrich tlie eonnlry equally with tiic fin* trade. These articles are wheat, biscuit* and ll(MM ; pot and pearl-aslies ; which in 1807 aniounled to one-half (he total exports of 1797. It must be allowed, however, tliat considerable quantities of pot and |)earl ash, are brought into Canada by the Americans from the United States; yet (lie clearing of the lands in Upper Canada^ and the Back settlements of llie Lower Province produce annually a much greater qmintity than what is obtained from the states. The French Canadians, wilhin these; two or three years, have begun to make ashes ; they have seen tlie facility with which their brethren of the United States clear their lands and pay t!i( ir expenses; and though late, yet are w illing to profit by the ex- ample. Their poverty, or parsimony, had pre- vented thera from paying 'cO/. for a pot-ash ket- tle, tliough they might, like the Americans, have made the salts in smaller quantities, and with lit- tle trouble or expciibc. Rut it requires a series of years to effect a change in the seniinients o^ actions of the i-'rench nabitans. • ; r- 23!3 TTHEAT. t )i \-Ui h ««•! 11 1; i \ ,f > ■> d ti'i'ii •i The great demand for \vhcat, whith prevailed in Great Britain, and generally throiiglioiit Europe, in 1793-4 and 5, i^ave a snddeu stimu- lus to tlio exertions of the Canadians, who dur- ing* those years exported considerable quantities of \vl:ea(, as well as flour and biscuit. The in- creased price given for those articles tempted the inbabitants to continue as lar/^o a cuKivalion of p;rain in the subsequent years ; but the demand ileclininj^, they experienced a sensible reduction in their exports, and a consequent curl ailment of their incomes. The followin*^ statement \\ill exhibit the fluctuating demand for Nvlieat, bis- cuit, and flour, tVom T/OG to 1808. \79G iim I SO'J 1807 1 1808 Wheat— Bvi-ilicls I'loiir — r.irrcls Biscuit— Cut. .!,:5J2 r>,8S'J 1 28/^70 11,'17;> DvH.DOl 'JJ.O.-I L'0,424 1 42,462 2P.,Ol7i .'i'J,.^87 1 'i (( !|l' The unsettled state of the market, for the above articles, renders it necessary to establish some other, of a more permanent nature, wliicli might also be derived from agriculture, and would be the means of enriching the mother country as well as the colony. The only arti- cle which could etfectually supply this want, is hemp, and that alone, if cultivated to a sufiicient extent, would be more than adequate to meet the whole expense of the imports. The quantity of wheat exported in 1802, was cvailcd llgllOllt stiinii- lio dur- liintities The iri- )tod the aiion of d87 for 11 le 'sliiblisli nature, [culture, mother ily arti" [want, is ifficient ncet the f02, was EXPORTS or ISOfi. 233 unusually great, being one million, ten thousand, and thirty-three bushels; but in 1807 it had fallen to loss than a fourth of that quantity, and in 1808 to less than a fiflh: yd ■ •'tj lip »t' I*' *1 H^' '*/» ,1',' :,*1,; I'i if lift ttti « 5, 1 r':i hA \ ■2 ft .•'.i'! *>^: t234 I.ESIDENC: 01- the G0VEr.\'OIl-(;ENERAL. The umisiial demand for tlie natural produc- tion of Canada, diirini^ J 808, enhanced the ])ricc ofevcry article in proportion, and in spite of the embargo laws, ahundance of timber and staves, pot and pearl-aslies, :ind provisions of every de- scription found their w:iy across the boundary- line, into Canadn, and wrrc shipped off to Europe, or the West Indies. The C;Miadian merchants rejoiced at the embargo, ^vhich en- riched them while it made their neighbours poor indeed. It has truly been a harvest for them, but [ question whether this year will abound with such favorable opportunities for speculation as the last. A very p;reat object to the welfire of the co- lony is the residence of the gaveruor-general. His presence stimulates the inhabitants to extra- ordinary exertions; while tlie large CGtablishment he is obliged to support, added to the increased nuniber of troops generally maintained in the colony during his residence, circulates a very considerable sum of money among the people, and creates tbroughout the community an uni- versal spirit of activit}'. Thelav/s are then bet- ter observed, and delay and irresolution in the actions of government can find no excuse: but when the principal is absent, and as it has fre- quently happened, his deputy also, the other members of the government never like to take any responsibility upon themselves: they would I Jlili I . FUR TRA )E rather^ T believe, that the ino.«t bcnftfrriii! pl.ivis fboiihl iiiiscairv, or even an eii.'mv be ;l!bn^('cl to r{iva<>'natrv, tlum tbev nvomIiI rittempl to art without }>osiii'vc itisiructinnifi'ini Uodh'. The arriv; 1 ol" Sir .r-nne-; IVaii;- dill used new ^ife jind activitv tliroui;!! the proviure: the iui- becility and irresohition wliich before ebarae- terizedthc j>;t)verrnneiit, instantly vanislied; birj^c Slims of money were circnhited by ^be troops, and the const ruetion of new ^vorks, witli the repairs of the old, i».ave full eniploynient to the laboiirinu;- part of the community; tlie price of provisions became proportionately onlianccd, chiefly at Quebec, where an unusual number of seamen and soldiers had takid<'ncc : hence the country peoj)lc were enriched, and en- couraged to <>;reat«M* exertions. The price of every tliinii; has been nearly trebled within the last 60 years; but the colony has risen into importance: aii'ricidture and com- merce centinue io improve and auLvmrnt ; manv of its ill !iabit. .<. \u\s possess nanusoHie roinines, an(. f( d nearly all of tlum a moderate iinh ncntlence, or iiicome, tVom trade. The fur trade iias been ihe. principal source of all tlie wci'tli \vhi( ii has formanv vearsheenaccumii- jated in tlie province. This branch of c.(Mnoierre, vviiich ftil iiito the hiLiuls of the Kn^i^li'^h afier the conquest, was carried on for several vears, by individuals on their own scparnte accouiit; ar.rt #11 m ,1 ,1- W- il '^ t ill • i 1 • 8 NOIITH-WEST COMPANV. under llicir neutral flajc;; an openinp: is thus crcatid for tlio couipany's peltry, which would otherwise have been very much contracted dur- ing: the war. The number of skins exported to England in 1S07, was i'iO.tJOO, and to the United S-ate-^, 280,70.'^; but the embargo in I80S must have much lessened the demand from that quortci. Upwards of 20,00()i is aniujally paid ill England for the duties on furs from Canada. The capital employed by the north-west company must be very extensive, as the returns are extienicly slow. The trade is now pii^hed to the very extremity of the continent; frotn the coast of Labrador, to the Paciftc Ocean, extrud- ing to the uorthvva''^ beyond the Arctic (.'ircle. The goods sent up annually from Montreal, for the barter of furs from the Indians, are upwards of four jjears hi fore they produce a return. The danr;ers uud diilicullies attending the transport- ation of these articles so many thousand miicfc across rivers, lakes, and portages^ have been so well described by i-ir Alexander M'Kenzie, in his history of thei'nr trade, iiuil it is unnec<^ssarv for me to detail them here: it is suiTirieut to say that they surpass any thing that can be formed in idea, by persons who never exph)ied the vast expanse of waters ; the gloomy and iiitermina- ble forests, which cover the extensive dominions of British North America, MIGHJTXIMAKINAt COMPANV. 2.39 There is another assoelaf ion cslablislicd with- in these few years, called the south-west, or Miehillimakinak company ; some oi' the partners in this association have also shares in the north- west company, but thep;eneral conccrji is totally separate. The south-west merchants pursue their trade across the hikes Ontario and Erie, and down the rivers Illinois, Ohio, and Missis- sippi, in the territory of the United Sta.tes. l\\ consequence of the embargo which took place last year in the United States, and which it was apprehended would afiect the concerns of this company, one of the p;.rtners, Mr, Gillespie went to Washington to procure from the govern- ment a safe conduct for their people, and pro- perty employed in the 'ade. Me was assured by iMr. Madison, that no intcrrnplion wliatcver should take place in the prosecution of their trade, with the Indians in the United Slates' ter ^ ritory ; and a clause was inj;tfrted to ., J I - iw; ft •• '" .1 ... (if i P % * ' s ■ '•lt"'>. .. n J;;.:i^li 'm '■i3 ni m Wa 1. 'ii m '■ •' ill H" 24 If AMERICAN MERCHANTS. of Europe shoulil render such -aciificcs ne- cessary. Several Americans liuvc of late years seltled I [I Montreal, and carry on a lucrafive trade throughout the country. Since the embarg^o two or three merchants from Boston have opened iargc stores of British merchandise. I went to New York in company with one of thcm^ Mr. S'.orrow, a j^entlcman of respectable family and connexions at Boston, where he has a partner "who conducts his concerns durin"' his residence in Canada. On my return to Canada, in the sprina of 1 SOS, he had brought his wife and family ■with him, and intended to take up his abode ia the province for some time, lie has met with great encouragement ; and what is rather re- markable, tlie merchants of Montreal do not eye his exertions with jealousy ; on the contrary, he has experienced a very hospitable and kind recep- tion from them. The people of the United States arc certi-iul? the most active and enlcrprizing of any that in- habit the continent of America ; they far sur- pass the Britiah merchant' resident in Canada who, either from tlie inactivity produced bv n long winter, or that they imbibe the languor ot the French Canadians, have no great incii nation to speculate to any great extent l>evond the cus- tomary routine of business. I must, however except the companies employed iu I'lc fur tnicli INTEREST NOT AM-OWCD TO C \TlTni TCS. 245 ^aIh) lifivr exhibited an iiult>t\i1i};':ibln exertion, nnd spirit orspiHuliitivc enterprize, that cannot bo surpasses] by th^i people of any nation in tlic world. One great cause of tbe want of spirit and ca- lorpri/^ among tbe llabitans, or Canadian land- Iiolders, \Jio, generally speaking, arc possessed of considerable property, is occasioned by tbe restrictions of (beir priests, who will not permit them to put tin ir money out to interest. Tbey have no ot]icr mode of turning tbeir money to account, but by increafiing their landed-pro- perty, or if in trade, by increasing their stock, ilcncc, whatever profits and gains, they arc able to lay up, must be put into a strong box, if they wish to secure it. To lend their money without being able to receive interest for it (which, however, they sometimes do) is only hazarding their property for nothing ; consequently the great majority of the French people who have spare cash, lock it up, year after year, in their coiFers, where it lies an useless burthen. In no country is there a greater variety of old coins to be met with than in Canada ; for as the old people die off, the young ones bring their hoard » of specie into circulati'^n. If a bank was established under the authority of the Brit iy'i government, it would, I conceive, be of considerable utility, inas;much as it would prove a safe deposit for money, even if the priests ^l ijs' C' ' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. ^ « 1.0 III I.I 1.25 In is: |Z5 in - IIIIM L8 U IIIIII.6 I 6" V] V) / (fm. ' 0>. ^ "- ^ .-v^ y /A Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MaSO (716) 872-4503 i *'" at! 'H ^«i I ' 11^ it * I ' 246 NUMEROUS BANKRUPTCIEi. continued to forbid their people from receiving interest for it : in that case a particular fund might be provided for vesting of such monies, the security of which shoukl be guaranteed by the British Governmeat ; and in return for the bene- fit they would derive from the use thereof, the people should not be liable to the smallest loss in the disposal of such property, whatever might be tl:e price of stocks at the time of sale. Some of the British merchants, who were in favour with the French clergy have sometimes obtained considerable sums from the Habitans, on loan, and have kept them for several years, without paying a farthing interest ; whether they made any pre- se?its in return, I do not know : but theHabitans have in one or two instances been great losers by their generosity. A merchant's house at Quebec, that broke about three years ago, was in posses- sion of a great deal of money obtained in this way, most of which their creditors will never recover. In consequence of these losses, theHa- bitans will now put confidence only in their strong boxes. The merchants of Canada arc almost v\ holly British: they derive their resources from Eng- land, and, ill geiuTul, have established themselves upon snicill t api1;i!s and large credits. This may, perhaps, in b( n e iiieasuro, account for the nume- rous failures that have taken place amongst them ; and it is poi:ili\e!y asserted as a fact, that since the NUMEROUS BANRTRUPTCIES. 247 country has boen in our possession, not more than five in a hundred, have paid llieir debts. A variety of causes, no doubt, have contributed to this fixtraordinary defalcation : a tedious winter of six month?, during which no business can be carried on with Europe, while intcreat upon their European debts, is charged after a certain period, and continues winter as well as summer, is certainly a great drawback in mercantile con- cerns ; the long credit, also, which the Canadian merchants are obliged to give the country store- keepers, tends very considerably to imjicde their remittances in due season, unless the utmost regu- larity is maintained. The Canadian merchants cannot in general be charged with extravagance ; yet from the appear- ance which many of them maintain, they areoften looked upon as men of fortune, when they are on the verge of bankruptcy. Protested bills, coming back with the extravagant addition of twenty or twenty-five per cent, are also highly injurious to the merchant, and tend greatly to increase his difficulties. There are, howoNcr, no b:!(!kriint- 4aws in Canrida, and perhaps tiie want of Uicia has rendered men in business 1( ss puiictual in their trausaclions than they would otlierwi.^e have been. A man in debt cannot be arrested, unless be is going to leave (be pro\ince ; nor can he be deprived of (iisp6:iiijg of l.is propeit*,. Vtui may go to law wiih him; but tliat oi.iy niu:>.t.i him spciicl iiov.v money tlie faster. »\ii ■«^ * ). ff if i' \>. « 11 ||,. i ik 1 ' . ^ !3! 1 i iv I i'i :if ', i'l .1 t hi. i; ;i!i;ii' 'ff 21S RAITS OF IIMr;Eli. The timber and staves, which are broni^ht into Canada from the States, are cat down in vv inter or spring', and collected into large; r.ifts on liike Champhiin, from whenec ihcy are flcatr'd down the river Richlieu info the St. La\\renre, and de- posited along the shoit^s of J^iileii :\\,i\ Wolfe'b Cove, for an extent of more than T^ they are culled and sorted fx : j- , then taken into the sliiits \\hicji i. J lies. There t liants, and ■ ;k; Cove, or at the wharfs at Qnebt^r. o.-,. , ; / staves of S^- feet long, \\ inch thick, iin:\ r;*' inches broad, scilin Canada usually from t(J/. iw -O/. the 1200. The freight is ah»Mt tl'.e same amoihit. The rafts, when coming down flic river, exhi- bit a curious scene: (hey have several little sheds or huts, erected w ith boards for the accommodation of the rowers, whose number on large rafts frc- cpiently consists of upv/ards of 100 or 150. The men employed in this business are chiefly Ameri- cans from the State of Vermont : they live upon the rafts until they are separated for sale, when they remove their huts to the shore, where they reside during the remainder of the season ; at the €nd of which they return home. Several rafts of timber, and scows laden with staves, flour, pork, and pot-ash, arrive annually from Upper Canada, at Montreal and Quebec. The trade between the Upper and Lower Pro- vinces, has been important only w ithin a very few years. The rapid increase of population and v^ -. -f <;| lit into liter or n lake I doAU iiul tie- '♦Volfe'b . There its, and .) Cove, / slaves • iiielics •0/. the )ai)t. ?r^ cxhi- tlc sheds iiodation •afts fic- . The Ameri- ve upon e, when ere they at the len with lannually [Quebec. ,'cr Pro- II a very tion and I !l, mmx^: 'ti! 1 |> 'MfUl , .tH (i! Kl ri ' ^ '- .. ^{V ,V' iMH: "• . t ji-^Li,,:,/, %, Hi. I '#••<%, :X.|li t*-v?t«-' ' «tl ' I U-- ,.H. .1? I! /• , !■*-• .(:,;>: /fsj- S^!*"'. ^■i-r. M;' 'h *f k I If ? ( ''Si t ^- -Sh I'! f »&i >■« iifti r'1 '•54Mf if^ PRODiJCTIONS OV LPPEU CANADA, O 49 sii^'rlcvi'ture ill tluMicw settlements of Upper Ca- i'i;ul.i, hcis produced ;i large siu'i^lus of those arti- 'irles for exportation, and the demand for them hai^ risen in proportion. The followine; is a re- turn of the productions that passed the rapids from CiKit<:a'!;2,uav to IMontreal, jetween the 2/th of April, and the 'iSth of Novembtr, 1807, the onlv period iki wiiich the St. Lavrence is naviiia- hie during the }C;ir. 1<),8()3 TjaiTLls Flour \ "],4'J() liu.licls Whc.'it ! J 27 iiarrcls I'ot-Ash > in 3C) Scows. 4S ])i;ro Tork k ' 8 I'iiCk.'i i'iirs 3 277,010 Ivct Oak TiiTiber ^i 4,300 Ditto I'ine T)\ao / 091,200 - Staves >-in340l{afi3. 72,440 - Boards anJ PI anks t gs5 - Masts. ) 6,300 « » Cords of Fire - wokI, in 701 Cribs, This statement aQbrds an agreable presage of the future pros[)erity and opuleiue of the Upper Province. Those persons with v» lom 1 have con- versed concerning the state of I pper Canada, generally speak of it as the garlcn of America, subjected neither to the tedious Vcczing winters of Lower Canada, nor the scorch ng summers of tlie more southern parts of the coninent of North America. The principal inconvenenccs to which the Upper Province is subject, aie the fails and rapids which impede the navigaton (f the St. J^av.rcnce, between Kingston and Monreal, and ■' ■ h 1'. \ * .1 ..t!.!.;j "*«n!j Li r^i Ni 250 M AN U FACT LUES. its distance fioni any commercial or sliippinc;- town IVom wlicnce its productions may be ex- ported to Europe. These pre, liowcver, in some measure, removed, and a, co ;siderable abundance of tbe surplus produce oi that province is now forwarded to Montreal and Quebec. If good roads were made between the two provinces, regu- lar waj»'f?;ons might be cstablis>he(i as in England, and goods conveyed up the jounlry with more security and ex| edition than tiiey can at present by water : a moreregular communicalion would be then opened betveen tlie two seats of government, which would b^ the means ol < xpeditirg tlie public business, tnd faciiitating the commerce of both countries. The manufacturps of Lower Canada are carried on chiefly by iiiftividutils for their own domestic use : these and some others of a more general nature I have euimerated in a pitceding chapter. A manufactory of iron was established by the French, at Tluie IJivers, soon afier tlie settle- ment of tlie coiiitry. That government, however^, was never ahli to make it pay tlie expenses at- tending the vvo-li, and it fell into the haiids of individuals, wh) succeeded very little better. The iron ore was at one lime supposed to be nearly fxlausled, buf fresh veijis having been disco- vered in t.'e vi:inity of the Forges, the works are now in allounshing coiidiiion. 1 i?hall ha\e an opportunty cf dc&ciibir>g them more particu- SHIP-RUILDING. f2:)i larly, when I speak of the town of Three Rivers, in a future chapter. Another manufactory of iron has hecn esta- blished of late in the seignory of Hatiscan, about half way between Quebec and Three Rivers on the north shore. Large sums of money have been expended in endeavourinc; to bring these works to perfection ; but very little success has hitherto attended the exertions of the proprietors, acveral of whom are considerable losers. The articles manufactured here, consist of cast-iron stove-plates, pots, kettles, and other domestic utensils. Within the last twenty years, ship-building has been carried on at Quebec and Montreal to a very profitable extent every year. There arc four builders at the former place, and one at the latter : from six to eight vessels are launched annually: they range between two and five hun- dred tons, and are contracted for, upon an ave- rage at 10/. per ton. Th: . .eatest advantage of this business is, that the men can work at it both 'ujinter and summer. The cordage and rigging are obtained from England ; but the iron-work is mostly of Canadian manufacture. Nearly S0,0O0Z. is annually circulated in the country for ship -building. Upon a review of the preceding account of the commerce of Canada, it appears, that a very seii- isiblc improvement has taken place within the last 4 i » L' % m 1\ '«< I;N ■t 1.1 ' I ! if '• BALiNCE OF TlUnr. twenty years; and that the balance of trade, upon the whole, is now much in favour of the colony. It maybe also worthy oTrcmark, that the imports from Great Britain and her colonies, instead of increasing', have considerably diminished. For several years past, the East India and British ma- nufactured goods imported into Canada annually from Great Ihitain, have been estimated atab(3ut 330,000/. sterling; but during the year 1807, they did not amount to more than 200,000/. : this surprizing diminutiun^ ^vhile the demands of the colony wer(* increasing with its population, must naturally create aslonishmcnt, until it is known that the deficiency is supplied by the I'nitcd States; partly by a regular trade, but much more by contraband. The articles now furnished chiefly by the Americans, and which \verc formerly procured wldij from England, are tea, tobacco, and East India manufactured goods. By the iable of imports received at the custom- liouse at St. John's, on Lake Champlain, it ap- pears, that in 1807, 42,000 lbs. of tea, 187,887 lbs. of tobacco ; and merchandise consisting of Bri- tish and East India goods to the amount of 50,000/. were imported from the United States, through the regular channel : while the quantity of tea received from England was only 4,200 lbs. and tobacco 150,000 lbs. jjThat exclusive of timber pot-ash, and provisions, the total amoiuit was calculated at 100,000/. equal to one half tho 1^5 ■ I SMUCGLEHS. *Ij:} merclitindlse received that year iVom Great Britain. lleekoiiiii^ oven upon tlils esllmatp, the defi- cieney of iiu|)()rts from (iroat Britain appears to be a( counted for , but then no allowance is made for tlie increasing wants of the peoph*, ^vhosc number must liave ii^reatly increased >vithin the last twenty years : this, however, is to be found in the great latitude that is given to the intro- duction of goods from the United States, without passing through the custom-house at St. John's. The means of conveying them into Canada, across the extensive boundary-line, which divides the two countries, are so easy, and require so little exertion to avoid the Argus eyes of a cus- iom-house-ofticer, that every temptation is oft'ered to introduce articles, which are either prohibited^ or pay any considerable duty. The facilities aflorded to smuggling, between Canada and the United States, have been sufli- ciently exemplified since the promulgation of the Embargo-Act; for, in spite of t]>e armed militia and custom-liouse-olFicers statior^.'^d nlorig the American side of the line to enforce the laws, the timber, pot-ash, provisions, and almost every other article brought into tli?, province in 1808, has more than doubled V.ii' qwdwiliy re- ceived from thence in Il>07. A variety of cu- rious expedients were resorted to by the Ameri- cans in smuggling tlieir prodLice over tlie line ; 5- ;'< . y I'! ^1 .f f .' tf, 'I' I t' . J m ; * '"!■■ L V •■fi. ■1 ■ J I t » In ■. " if I * ?51^ KvA«io\ OF TUG EMinnco r.AWjt. buildiiiics wcrcdTcIrd j'xiicily [\\w\\ (lie hrviindary line, oi:n liair in Caiiiida, (lio otlicr half in (he Stii(«'s ; the goods were put in at iiii;!it, and hefore niornini!; vvrrosafe in Canada. Additional laws, Jiowr\('r, put a stop to this procrc'dinii::, and the o[Ti('Pr.s were o.npowrrod to seize all j)roperty whieli they su^pcclrd \mis Intended to be run into Canada ; hut the ingenuity of the Verniontese still evaded even these rigorous mandates. They eonstrueted a great nund?er of timber-raffs, fastened them together, and fornud immense bodies of tloiiting wood ; one of (hem even eo- vered ten acres, and from its size, and in ridicule of INTr. Jelferson, was called the Maiinnolh Raft. These were manned wholly by French Canadians collected for that purpose, and were rowed within a short distance of the line; when the custom- house-otiicers, aided by a dctacbmcnt of the mi- litia, immediately took possession, and obliged tlie people on board to cast anchor : this was ac- cordingly complied with, and for a few days the rafts remained quietly moored. There were im- mense quantities of provisions, pot-ash, and staves on board ; and the people were conveniently lodged in their wooden huts, \^hicb, with the great number of men employed to row thcm> tormed u very extraordinary spectacle. It was nbt Ions:, however, before the whole v^ ere soon in action again ; for a violent gale of wind com* iiiir on one niirht, blew the unwTildlv raits with 1N>UUUE(TI0N OF Tim VEIlMONTnSF,. !255 nil tlioir ri\il and inllilar\ ln»rors on board, c.oni- plrlrlv over ihc liiic. The Anu.'iitan ollitcrs and miiiti i, no s« xnwr (ountl tlittust»!\cg in Canada, lliuti ll <*v I'.a- f ';, »')i»k to lljcir bouts and rowed bad; <.» ih.- Mates soioiy clingrincd at losings') ni;i«»> viilii.i'vlc |irizi's. Stroii«i r« niMiistjunccs v. ere iiiaitanrrt///. Nothuig inJeed very serl;!tis took place ; a few broken heads were all that resulted from the opposition to the laws. A great and serious inconvenience was felt at this period by the British settlers in Misslsqui Bay, the entrance from which into Lake Cham plain is cut by the boundary line, and several rafts were thus pre- vented from passing down the Ricblieu river into the St. Lawrence ; they havio:^ no outlet but by way of the States. ''^m 1 '■ .» I !' « fi' Il . :t ' i '.! 2:)6 INFKRIOIl COMMODITIES. The lucrative trade, Mliich is carrifd on be- tween Canada and the adjoining States, has ren- dered the Americans very averse to a war between tlic two countries, as the prospc^rity of their re- spective States almost entirely depend upon tliat openi.ig for the disposal of llieir surplus pro- duce. Greater facility and auvantages are af- forded by the exportation to Canada, than to any of the maritime towns in New England; nothing, therefore, but absolute necessity would drive them into a war with the British settle- nicnts. They also lay a diity of nearly 15 per cent, on goods from Canada, while their produc- tions sent into that country, pay but a mere trifle. The Canadians are more ncliiied to encourage the importation of goods 'om the States, than from Great Britain, because hey are obtained at a much cheaper rate, tlior i;h generally of an inferior quality. The int» nsic worth of an ar- ticle is, however, of less pnsideration to the inhabitants of Canada than he price ; the best kind are seldom or never to be procured in that country: the merchants find their own advan- tage in the vending of inferior commodities, upon which they obtain much larger profits than they could procure upon the better sort ; and the people are now so accustomed to the use of these goods, that they scarcely know how to appreciate those of a superior quality. JMuch diversity of opinion has existed of late BANKS. 257 in Canada, upon the pioprlrfy of establisliing a bank in that counlrv. The Hriti^h merchants of course arc eager for the creation of such an es- labhshmcnt, havjni>', before tlieir eyes the exam- ple of Great Jlritain, and the United States, \vhere the banking system is carried on wilh so much success and advantag-e. The subject was discussed, in 1818, in the House of Assembly, and Mr. Ricliardson of Montreal, one of the members, answered the several objectioits that were ur2:cd ai-ainst the establishment of a bank in Lower Canada. It was said tliat tbe people were illiterate, and, tberefore, liable to be im- ])osed on ; that it would encourafi:e a spirit of "•ambling, and speculation founded upon false capitals; and that it would occasion the small portion of specie at presejit in the province to disappear. In reply to these objections, it was lu'ged, that the inconvenience to be apprehended from the illiteracy of tbe people, had certainly some weight, but was capable of being remedied by devices upon the bank-nolos which should point out to them, on view thereof, the relative v.alue. Forgeries might be guarded against, or at least rendered difficult, by additional precau- tions in the paper issued for tbe notes, and the plates from which the impressions were made: an advantage over the United States, would also be had in the punishment of forgery, which would be death ! whereas, in that country^ it wai VOL, I. s mm- Pi i v< J-i: ■i ' I™ 111 ^ ' :H ) liiii t t i •I "V, » ''I -I ! I'f if H t; >« 1^ » *< MJ I'l- 1)13 :ra 2aS fiANkS. iiumtIv iinprisonmenl: besides, p;old jiiid silver arr liable io be eoiinterfeitetl, and it would be »(ranp;c to jirj;iic iVom tbcnce, that the use ol coin oup;bt to be abandoned. With respect to sprcnlatina; upon a false capital, such might be practised (o a certain extent; but all credit, whe- ther o;iven io a bank, or to individuals, is a spe- cies of false capital, and of course liable to be misapplied ; but it is false reasoning to argue against the use of any thing, because of its pos- sible abuse. The objection which staled that the establish- ing a bank, would occasion the specie to disap- pear, was said to have foundation only in ap- pearance, not in fact; for that at present the intercourse with the United States, which leaves a balance of trade against Canada, does annually drain the country of a considerable quantity of specie, and this drain can only be remedied by the importation of specie by government, or by individuals: but that a bank could not add to the diminution of specie, and would be the means of transporting property from one country to another, with less danger and difiiculty than at present exists. A bill was then brought into the house ; the following are its principal features: The stock is not to exceed 250,000/. currency, unless the government of the province see fit to take an interest therein^ in which case it may be BANKS. 21)9 50,000/. more. This stock is to consist of shares (►t" 125/. c;i( li. There are to be 2^ directors, who urcto choose out oi'tlieir iiunibcr a president and vice-i)resident, wliereof lialfare to be fur Que- bec, and Iialf for Montreal, at which cities, tlic hvo superior branches of the bank are to b(.' iichi, wiOi a power of crectinjj;' oflices of deposit and discount, in olher j)arts of the Canadas, when found advisable. If i^overnnient take an inte- rest, they are to appoint two directors. The dividends are to be payable half-yearly. A de- posit of 10 per cent, is to be paid down, for cuch share, on subscribing^, which will be forfeited if the (irst instalment thereafter of 10 percent, be not [)aid in due season. The shares are put a< a low rate, that they may be more generally difi fused over the province. Foreigners may hold shares, but cannot be directors ; they may, how- ever, vote at general meetings by proxy, if the proxy be one of bis Majesty's subjects. The votes are endeavoured to be established on such a scale of proportio-n as shall exclude an over-bearing preponderance in those who shall hold a large interest in the concern, and yet as- sure to property therein, that influence whicli it ought to possess in every well regulated institu- tion. It is proposed that there shall be no other corporate bank in Canada, during the continuance of the contemplated one ; but there is a power of revocation tliereof, under certain limitations and s2 ',♦* Um I r i ■'* i ' '200 BANKS. M i . V I ^ urn li' *!P fonn:ilili('s il rotind <<» br Imrirnl in prarlnr. Thr stork v\' (lir liiiiik may be. increased wlun ir(jiiisil('. arul irsiiolcs iiro propost'd lo l)c rocciv- .i))lc in pavnuiil of dnlics iuip()sv Hie ])ro\ iiicial K'L';isla)iiicido willi i\\r. ideas of i\w Ijiili^li nicrchiinls ; ilic old 1m, niav not answer in Canada, the f nil Ox i 1 w and (he mi?ei.ie\ons eueelsofa paj)er medium ]ia\e al.f.uU hvvw leU, in that province : thoujjh il m ujit b(.' ;;! lowed ihat tlie colony is at [jresejit ii) a better co.i;uiivMi i'or t'le e-^tiddi jhinj.'- of a h-.w.k than :it ar. V m. iiier ; ene .e iKilaiice of (radi upcui the a,;gre£;':Ue lieini!,- ji'readv in its favor l\)rasi ♦.' ; f» i 'i Mi in ui ',7 I * ^1 ^ ■ t J [f^ o 00 o O* J2 a c2 pj « eq O bO O) £ u O Xi O ^ O (U 2 o E -^ 4> pq ir « •G O tC C 'C C «0 -!fOi (O00(C0iO?0C<0O«C-^C«CCCfCCC'l?t ♦^JoOOOOOCOOOOOOOOCmOCC'^CO — oo • I ) I I i I I I r t.^K ■*\-U. "■»■; en c.S' - C «3 i> o -2 (J !V ti -y V . r/D t) ^ hi 1^ -r — 3 rn S rt •ti . 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C I o o c o : t^ O 00 >r> •^ '=2 — ' -i' c c- 'S ~ -T lUD ^3 ts o c c -' -o c; o — 5 «c "^ O O u-5 c C>1 r^ c 00 ro o »o »< O O O — "^ o e 3 o c o CO CO I ■■ I rt 3 !-> .S occ-^rt®^ ^.^ !?■? ^^ .S? S? ^.^"^■ = ^^^^ o ^ ^>>c o.H»^ o n .- .t^ .t^ '£ N i "i ;i ::^ r? w ij -^ u -^ «5 _. .^ „, ^ ^^ ,^ ^ cr ^» o O C-* I - 00 C^|' t>- « — fO «^' f^ ro O CO w> .-2 Cf) Q ^ h ^ 'O C3 -'-."^ 0) ■o c 'o fC O ro c t-^ O -H O »3 •"5 UO V) I I ro ?:; T^ o -.o rs »^ ;c !• n fo o coo — • c» -^ ci (^, ":' o 1-* o 'C — ") '1 o o «r, t>. o ICOO — OO—S — OOC — — OCO'^ s A 1: 11 T ij^ '* il 1 ^ ffi 9 1 vf 1 91 ;«| 1 1 imi ''Urn >' i 'qIv !■ *r a< ■/! o 1^ i-C o l- -J-. --i ,^ fC c <^ ^4 o -• o VJ • I I t I • I I I I I I I I I I I I I < I I I I I I t I I •• I I I I I t 1 4 I I I >■ I 4 I I I o o I I I I "> , * ^^ j3 «-• — ' *^ — . *r -- .^, .-' -^ — < ^. '-J — — « "< O 3 _2 :-: '^ .■=: -i *■ ^ -^ -'^ r: - "i S 'J ;i K ri \'-^^-~ y -A ^ii *». '■'i >> -^ _J "7 -^- ^ ^ :^ "^ ' I .T> -~ -r' ""i " -3 'C t) -^ --f I- c. '-C '?! '•1 f^ O "^l ~ :0 O O —. rrj ,~1 _ r7^ -., l^ r-, ) O ■* :V1 •"" '^ ■;'> ''> -^" --l* ■rt" -t lO "li 'Z ::J5 CO -O — . — ^ J^ fC O C C: c. o o -ci ~ o c« X> O O '■'5 '■'•. t^ .(-! O C '<". O O ?■) >n to o — ■ — ^/2 K^ Ct'iCQ— 0CC;/:CC0CC;O — C'O : 'i: 'CI ;f ■■!' • ,i' •^f l''^ 1' n tl m t en iiiiitiiiiiii*iii> I I I ^ M I I I I I I I I I I I • I I I I I I fill I I I I I I I I I I I I I ' ^(t I I I I till V: K^ O '-C '""5 t^ W^ ■)» t/3 (U o-c ■u _ a..; S .» ■A' S^sh I — . j_) I I Or '!^=i ^ ^ ? ^^ 5 cffl=i • ^ ^ m rr\ . . »-i rr\ ^^ . ^^ .^j rn m C r*t ^^ ^ . _ rt rt ^ '^ '-^ ?, J§ .=: rt rt .ti _s 2 5 ■/:>. — M n ij -^ w :i3 =2 -- J3 sc— :2 ;2 v ~^:.z ^ •»o;NO — ' -^ c; po vT. c ;« ;'• •-• •-" «* o» — " •" c< '-■ — t^ 266 EXPORTS FROM QUEBEC. Exports from Ciucbcc. — 180S, y r 'i "ill ! i j. Whcnt . C'riblitigs - Oats Karley Jndiancoru Haystcd - Flour Biscuit Pork Ditto Beef Oak timber Pine ditto M:iple and walnut - Staves and heading 1 Ditto ends Boards and planks Oak planks Handspikes Oars Masts Bows[)rits Yards Spars Hoops Lath wood Scantling Punch, and hhd. packs Madeira ditto Cod-fish Salmon Ditto Herrings Sterling. L. s. d. \86,7()bh\\^\u'b () a l.^Oditco 3 52,pM ditto O 5 O 2,(JiH) '''Ifo 2 A,U()4 ditto 3 4 :iA()7 tlitl" 4 33,830 ditto o O -1 2,^62 barrels 2 7 (i 32,.'5S7 quintals 1 4 O 1/0 tierces 7 O O 7;J2 barrels 5 O O 1,509 ditto 3 n Cl 12,372 pieces 3 O O 14,510 ditto 1 10 O J88 ditto 2 ,824,861 {peri2(X)) 40 O 62,453 perditto 3 194,467 per ditto 5 O O 20y each o 15 O 4,141 1 O 6,723 perpair O 6 O 3,{)Q4 each 5 8 373 6 3 O O 1,612 15 O 215,500 per 1000 6 O 130,215 pieces per do 12 10 O 2,426 each 5 1,469 do 15 O 2,026 do O 15 O 2,949 quintals 14 O ^Q4 tierces 4 O O 61 barrels 2 10 O 519 ditto O 12 6 EXPORTS VaOM C^UEBEC. iterling. I. .V. rf. ) a J 3 ) 5 3 2 J 3 4 3 4 ► o 2 7 () 1 4 7 5 O o s o 3 1 10 2 o ■) ? 5 o ) 15 o ) 1 o :> 6 o 5 8 5 (► ) 15 () ) 1 10 ) 5 o ) 15 > 15 > 14 o 10 12 6 StciiiiijT. ricklcil full J)iUo ],;ud Ditto Latter Suap T.I How Ciiiidles - J'ickled tongues Rounds beef Ditto I Tarns Ditto Oxen Horses Calves Sheep Turkics - Essence of spruce Iron stoves Shingles - Ox horns Apples Onions Wool Hemp Ditto seed Oil Hops Mats Birch Castor oil Castoruni Capillaire Ditto Malt Pot and pearl ashes New ships Beer Ditto Beaver L. s. d. 83 tiercei cnch 1 10 5UM>1j1s I O 5U ditto 5 0' J(|3 keg-i 'J O 2,0i)() do. and tjrkins 2 <) () 1,142 boKe» 1 12 1 keg 1 O 690 boxes 2 15 O 45 kegs I It) 7 pun 12 1/ () 93 bbls 4 () (» 39 kegs 1 14 tierces 15 O 107 pieces 10 O 20' each S> i) 60 If) () 4 OK) O 213 15 O 118 2 (t 150 casks , 5 O () 127 4 O O 60,500 per 1000 OH) O 6,485 O 1 SpQbbls 1 O O 83 ditto 1 O O 8 bales 10 O O 4,719 lbs 4 b bbls 10 O 9,260 gallons 020 1,319 lbs 020 143 O O 6 30 boards O 5 O 2 cases 3 O 9 kegs O 5 O 17 punch 7 000 9 casks I ^ " " 0,263 bushels O 5 O fl07,652cwt.Oqrs,7lb.7 per „,. _ I 30,838 barrels ....J cut. ^ '^ " 3,750 tons 10 O 29 hhds 4 O O 300 bbls O 7 6 FURS. 126^92; , 18 9 it %■>' ;« "Sk„ 268 EVPOr.TSFROM LABRADOK, &C. Marfin - Oltrrs Rlif.k Fisiiers . F( xes HiMis nnd cubs Dlvis Cased aiul op»;n cat Racoons - Musk cats Wr.lf . Elk Woolvvreens Seals Buffalo - 9,.'? 30 r.'JMO t).108 |.:?,<)H 1 03, fl75 1 23,. 107 , 0,5.13 18 662 3.0 10 1 s L lori; 9. 3 4 1 2 4 .5 1 .5 3 I 3 4 2 1 6 7 6 \5 ,5 4 J ?ijfi ' •' kl ( I • ■ t ■'} ? » 4 334 Vessels cleared at tlic Custom-house. 70,275 Tons. 3,330 Men The Kxports f.om I.ahrador, Gasp,', nnd Ci.nlcnr }hv consist of C.Hl.fish, Sahnon. Herrings, a.ul oii:,:r pickled F.sh. besides Lumber, Oil, &c. tbc whole amountiug to up- wardsof 130,000/. sterling JS- Tomiaise of Shipping iraJ/nrr to Canada, for three Yi\u\s. 1S0.5 180/ 1 so,s .. 3r.,c}()C} . . 42,293 iiJ" ' DUTIES ON l.M POUTS. ^209 Stc rlln /» /,. ,t. d. () :\ 1 1 () () f> 2 4 .^ I fi 3 'i 'i 4 2 1 6 7 6 \5 ,<) 4 (J 1 nlcnr K:iy :cr pickled iiig to Uj)- lid, for iJufica Oil Dvpoitfi. ISO'S. Uulii.'s pajjnbk in Lower Canada, on Imports, wi' (hr several Acis of the British Parliament. Sterling S Geo. II. c. 13. Foreign sugars, per cwt IJ o ^DiUo, while or thiyed, per cwt. 1 2 rorti^n indigo, per lb. - O O 0" i Geo.III.c.15., DiiUj, (Vjffie, pjr ewt. <'ira M.ul F.iyal V Wine?, per tun enui riiT ] ^ ly 9 ; } U 10 o s Port ug;il,Sj)ani ill, and other winesj iVoni Great Britain, per tun Biitish Plantation riiU'ee, per cwt. 0/0 1 o o oi ««(Itfo. I1I.C.35. \ Molasses, per gall on CHritish pinicnto, pcrlb. Brandy, or other spirits, mannfac- lured in Hrilain, jirr gallon ilua!, or other spirits, iiT^ported J4G<^o.^I.c.S8. troni the West huii Dcr ciitio O O (j Ditto iVoni Colonies in Aineriea O Q I Brandy, or other forei-n spiritSj imported lioni Biit.iin Iliun, or spirit, the proUuceof Co. lonies in America, not under the dominion of his M ije»ty, ^O 1 imported Worn any oilier place than Great Biitain Molasses, in Biitish bottoHi ]3iito, in any oilitjr O 3 (i l^ \ .> ».' Wf 'Vii « •Ahh ' f JM 1 ;f> tin ^ *rf ' ■1 ; ^:3 ik I ij III- S70 ADDITIONAL DUTIEf?. Additional Dnfics hid on bij the Provincial Par- liament, .ids S3 Ceo. III. cap. 8.-35 Ceo, III. c. O.-^and 41 Geo. III. c. 14. Foreign brandy, or other foreign spirits, per gallon Rum per gallon - _ . - Molasses «nnd syrups, per gallon Madeira wine, by one act 4rf. and by another 2d. Other wines, by one act 2(1. by another id. - Loaf, or lump sugar, per lb. Muscovado, or clayed sugar, per lb. Cofl'ee, per lb. - - - - Leaf tobacco, per lb. - - . Playing cardsj per pack Salts, per minot - . - - Snuff, per lb, - - - - Tobacco, manufactured in any other way Duties imposed by a Provincial Act, for building Gaols, to continue six Years, from the 2oth March, 1805. Bohea tea, per lb. Souchong, black, per ditto Hyson > _ _ Green teas - - - - Spirits, or other strong liquors per gallon Wines - - _ - Miplasses and syrups Sterling- L. s. d. 3 3 3 6 1 2 2 4 4 4 3 2 4 6 4 3 3 2 POST OFFICE REGULATIO>-S. 271 jillounnccs at the Custom-house. Deduction of Weight. On coffee, in bales or bags, 3 lbs. for every c\v{. in casks, 12 lbs. per ditto. Loaf sugar, in casks or boxes, 15 lbs. per cwt. Leaf tobacco, in casks, 12 lbs. per cwt. Leakage on wines, spirits, and molasses, 3 gallons on every hundred. For waste of articles, subject to duty by weight, an al- lowance of three pounds on every hundred pounds. On salt, an allowance of 3 minots per hundred. The import duty on salt is 4d. per rainot. Salt landed be- low the east bank of the river Saguenay, oi\ the north side of the St. Lawrence, and below the east bank of the river. Grand Mitis, on the south side, is not subject to duty. There shall be drawn back, at the Custom-house, 4d. on every bushel of .salt exported from the port of Quebec, to any place beyond the above limits ; 7d. on every tierce of salmon ; and 4(1, on every barrel of salted beef or pork, or salted tish of any sort e.^- ported from this province. Goods sold at auction, are subject to a duty of 2^ per cent. The minot is about 8 per c^nt. larger than the Winchester bushel. The par of exchange is 11 U. 2s. 3d. currency, for 10U^ sterling, or dollar at 5s. Current-exchange for bills on London at (50 days sight, 4 per cent, discount, 7th Sept, 1803, 10 per cent, is added to all bills drawn in Canada on foreign places, and returned dishonored ; this with the charges, rnak<'i ;in increase of 20 or 25 percent, on all iirotested bills. Post Office Regulations. A.t the beginning of every month a packet sails from Fal- mouth for North America; having on board a mail for Quebec f vxa ^' I h: t"'! iwll r.isr oi rovr.KNoRs or canahi, Vim m m lii ii lUn.i moiiiiis she ;);Us in ,-il llaliCix, on \\t\- \v.iy t* >tu YciK 1 1 , w. I \v\- liU- I nail for C.iii;i(I;i. I'Vo iti li:ili!.i\ il IS 111] u .ir.ii'il l)y l.iinl to (-liK hoc. In llic tuoiilln ol NovtMiiln-r, !),•( LMiilici-,, J;iuu..iv, iiii'l I'Vhniarv, the packets ]^,iss I lalif.is, aiul (Irlivir llic ninils lor (^iiiiad,!, to the nj^cMit foi Ilriiisli packets at I\l•\v^'olk, who f'orwaulH them (liroii^Ij tlic Ifjiilcil States by post (o Montrca!, A Miaii tor l',ii;!,iaiul is ■lispatchcil Ironi Clurhcc oiicc every ior'.nii;lit in Miioin r, ami once a njunlh in wiutcTj to be sent by the lirst [-acki t ior laiglauJ, .A mail lor l'iuiii\!:,lon, in the Ignited Slati-s, is nuule up at Uuebcc every 'rhiUMkiy, and at Mimtrcal every Saturday, by vliieh conveyance Icllcrs may be sent li'r Murope, under co- ver, to a tVieiul at i\e\v York, on Jiaying the Caiuulian postage. 'I'he post lor IMontreal lea\es Quebec e\ery Mtaiday and 'J'hursJa\^ aiul lea\es iNIontieai lor Quebec on the same days, 'J'he pel ani\es at these places on Weilnesilays aiul Saturdays. A monthly eonn^iunii-alion, by post^ between Luwer aikUUp- j)er C'ana'.la, has l)een l;-.lc]\' opeiicd. »« I »■'«* 11 i '<■■ ^; ;if: u \ !6! 0' ■ orcr}:nyf> ( V/w;/(/:/, ''i'oiii tJic Conquest, y\ I'.l i ■\.\\ il iU J.i: I (■■ //• li ,Cilll(] tCiU r. M.I I \ le.c iiov'r r.n!,-! !i icton. ,t-r. ir.l une rnt~r IC ( n;maudc \\\ Ci i-i , _ i ii L^ef -} Di'l(\ '!<) (Kl'. 11. l'. C fTU\ f av V. lb i-;i.n, .i.;c!i: , n- >n. ! !th C)(:t()her .in!;;n H.l :ntst ■.i.d mniane ii ^.lael II. I ail', r,;M.t Cse'.evr.or Vdw 1 C jiv^niaiulci I iiiel ■1 I orti r (;rcnesloi G. ner ;r CkMieral, A. Clarke, 1 ;(.uien.;ul (-sncriiur, and CuiiU;'., i!i Cir.a" - - - - IK'il 1 J7G3 1 70() J 701) / / ^//i yr^'-i I / OO ]7.st'j i7yi 't at ' LIST OF COUNTIES IN LOWER CANADA. 973 packets c every I be sent \c lip nt inlay, by luler co- I postage. \±\y aiul lint' tUiys, lUtuvdays. • aiKUUp- mqucst, ,} ] i/tJt) 1770 177 J 177s V7B4 i7t>5 i7S(i i7yi Lord Dor cheater, 2'1 til September ■ * Kobort I'rt^sontt . - - « - Sir Robert Milnes, liicutenant Governor - Tlionms Dunn, IVcsidcnt, and superseded by -"I Sir Jaiues Craig, Governor and Captain General -J 1793 1796 mo I807 JAsl of the Counlics in Lower Canada^-'the J^^um- her of Jh'presenlatives in the Provincial As- sembly — and the Nuinber of Parishes. Parishes. Member!. Gaspe - - - Coriiwallis Devon - - .. Hertford Dorchester - - Buckinghamshire Richelieu - - - And for the town of Sorel, in ditto Bedford _ - - Surrey Kent Huntingdon York Montreal Effingham Leinster Warv^'ick St. Maurice >. Hampshire Quebec Northumberland Orleans O 11 6 7 4 12 7 I 2 3 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 5 2 4 2 7 a 5 2 7 for town 4 9 3 county 2 3 2 8 % 4 2 *> county 2 9{ Three") „ J Rivers J 7 2 7 county 2 ^J town 4 1 2 50 ! .» •♦. i ;: im\' » « i^v- •; I > • il '''imU m I ! '?^ ;f I ■ i <^ »:«( 4 Ml ;i;] ^'i . ^'»* '( 11 •■ miiff m ■ 11 I rl 274 ROADS AND DISTANCES. Roads and Distances in Canada. From (luchcc to Halifax. From Quebec to Point Levi, cross the river Thence to the rorttig-c at Ruicre dii C;ip Tlience to Tiiniskuata 'I'hence to the settlement of Madua.ska "ilience to the great Falla in river St. John Tlience to Freticrick town Thence to St. Jolm's I'hence to Halillix MiK-. 1 3 (J 4". 45 J SO ros From (-luchcc to MiclulJinmkinak, at the Entrance of JmIxC llnrou. To Montreal To Coteau tin Lac To Cornwall To Matilda To Augusta To Kingston To Niagara To Fort Erie- To Detroit To Michilliniakinak 184 225 2QQ 301 385 525 560 790 no; From Quebec to New York, Inj v:aij of MonivmF To Cape Rouge To St. Augustin To Jacques Cartier - To St, Anne's To I'hree Rivers - M M 9 - 9 m m IS - 30 - 22 Carried over 85 ROADS AND DISTANCES. 275 Brought over To Riviere dn Loup . « - ToBcrthier , - „ - To Rcpcntignc - - _ - 'J'o M »3|(. ii f*§ ,. .| ill i 276 DirrERENT CLASSES OF SOCIETV CHAP. XIV. Socictij of Ihc Toiuns in I^oiar Canada — Dijfcrenf Classes of Sucicly — EducaUon — Inicstigaiion of the Causes of mental Disabiliiij — Defects of Education of the original Settlers — Degrad- ing Pol icij of the French Government — State of the People before the Conquest^-^Levitij of the Canadians — Extravagance and Dissipation"^ Ignorance of the British Settlers — Change of ^Manners after the Conquest — The Ledger and Waste Book preferred to splendid Entertainments "^Bising importance of the British Merchants — Degrcuiation of the French Noblesse — Female Boarding Schools — Boarding School Misses — Manners of the French Canadian Ladies in 1749 -—and in \SOS-'-^Anecdote of Mademoiselle «-. Morals of Canadian Society — Fenude Servants — Scaiidal — J^ortJi-zcest Mtr ■ chants. The towns of Quebec v.nd Montreal^ iiiclud ing' their suburbs^ ai'e said to contain abouf 12j000 iubabitauts eacli, nearlv tlirec-fotirths of whom are French. In ojieakirijj; (if the society of Lower Canada^ I shall conlhie my re ns arks chiefly to the cit/ of Qncbccj which as it is Cue M 9 'sUgation defects of 'Dcgrad- - St ate of ill) of the ipation'^ 'hange of cdger and 'tainments Mercliants — Female Misses — sinViV) demoiselle Society — est J^'h y ■ L incUui lin ubout foiirtlis oT |)c society IS it is the DirrnuENT classls of societv. Til ♦'apKalj and the manners of its inhabitants arc in every ropoct siniiUir to those of Monfieal, will serve as a general view of societv ;ituong the hi,'* her orders throui»hoiit the c(iintrv. The British inhabitants of Quebec consist o^ tiic g'overninent people ; tlic military ; a few per- :jons belonging to the ciiiirch, the lav, and me- tlicine; the merchants, and shopkeepers. The French comprize the old noblesse and seigm'ors, most of v^ bom are members of the go- vermnent ; the clergy ; the advocates and nota- ries; the storekeepers. These different classes form three distinct di- visions of society, wliich contrive to keep at a respectable distance from each other. ^Ihe first is composed of the highest orders next to the go- vernor, comprehending the members of the go- vernment; the honourable professions ; and a few of the principal merchants. These are ad- mitted to the chateau. Tile second division is composed of the inferior merchants, the shopkeepers and traders ; together with the subordinate otficers of the government, the army, the law, and the chur< h ; the practi- tioners in medicinCj and other Ilrilish inhabit- ants. The third division consists of the French in- liabitants, most of whom, except the few who are members of tlie government, associate almost entirely together^ unless that a public entertain- im\\ i 'f ii » . !ii * • I? ^ I' I ill ;i:J li .1 ;fi. « ^N i^ '^ I i'(i ^,1 srs DlFFEnENT CLAfiSFS OF SOflKTV. ment, or the annual assemblies, bring* some of them into company with the Britisli. A very small proportion of the British C'jinji- dians were born in the colony, and conperpienlly very little diilerencc in person, dress, or niamier?;, in discernible between them and the inhabilant-; of the mother-country. The French have til'o asbimihited themselves so nearly to the British in dre?s, manners, and amusements, especiallv ihr- yoiniger branches, that if it was not tor their language, there would be little to distinguish tlicir respective coteries. The creaks * of Canada, both French and English, who inhabit the towns, arc generally of a middle stature^ rathiT slender than robust, and very rarely possess the blooming and ruddy complexion of the Britisli ; a pale, sallow, or swarthy countenance, characterizes the natives of Canada, and with few exceptions, the whole oi' (be Aineritan coiiliiient. It is rather sisigular, that a foggy atmosphere shoold be conducive to thatbiooai of healih which glows on (he cheek of a British islander ; yet the fact is con oboralcd by the appearance of the itii^.ibitants of New- foundland, of the shores of No\a ScoJsa and tluj * By Creoles. I n.ean thcdesrrnci.nits of Kuropcnns, boi'n in Cannda, in contradistinction to Vdhres of Europe, wlu,- may b ^. saltlcd therej and not (as many persons imagine), tlie offspring of black and while people, who cic properly called peopif of colour, or mulattoes. ' 'I '? i CANADIAN niFAUTV. 270 Npw En'j;l!in(l sljt(N; avIio, nivcloprd in fog-s uioro than ()n^-ilillf the \Ciir, enjoy llic satnd fncidy C()m[jlcxion as tlie Knglisli; \vhiK' (hose \vho live in the interior, under a clear sky, are universally distino'uished by sallow or swarthy complexions. J.ower (Canada cannot boast of much supeilative beauty among its females; but there are ni.iuy who pos'^ess very pleasinj^ and iuteresling countenances. Montreal is allowed io have the advantage over the other towns for fe- male beauty ; but I have seen two or three at Quebec and Three Rivers, who have surpassed any that I met with in the other cit}'. The country girls, who are nearly all Frencii (with •ihe exception of those who reside in the back townships), arc pretty when very young, but from hard work and exposure ^o the sun, they grow up coarse featured and swarthy, and have all the sturdiness but none of the beauty of our Welch giris. Upon the whole, if the generality of the Ca- nadian females are not remarkable for beautiful faces or elegant figures, there is nothing in cither that can oiVend, and both are certainly aj much as the men are entitled to. Education having a natural influence upon the moral and social character of a people, it is j;reatly to be regretted that so little attention is paid to it, by the Canadians. I have belore no- ticed the great ignorance or rather illiteracy of '(. ^ ^ .'-A \ •;: U"' i Hi ' *;i I) ii *,; i !' ,i e:'*' 'A' I t' ;,« liH; I.; I 11 ■i: \^ 2S0 EDUCATION. the Habitans or country people, and T am sorry that I cannot say much in favour of tht-ir supe- riors who live in the towns, though posscssinp; *he advantages of public scmiuaiies and private schools. The Canadians arc generally accused of pre- ferring to live in ignorance rather than pay fur knowledge: this accusation, however, I do not think will apply to the Canadian gentry. A cer- tain levity of disposition, and false indulgence of their children, are rather io be ascribed as the cau.se of that paucity of learning andacconiplished education, which exists anv. ng the higher classes of the people. The public i^eminaries and pri- vate schools are certainly deficient in all tho su- perior branches of education, yet they are ca- pable of affording a moderate share of learning to those who ha\'e anv moderate share ofiiienius, or ability. To investigiite the phyhical causes of mental disability, which has heretofore distinguished, and at present distinguishes, the Creoles of Ca- nada: it will be necessary to trace its origin from the first settiernent of (he country. The first adventurers who took up their abode in Ca- nada, were more gifted with romantic genius and a wandering disposition, than a taste for learning, or tlie steady habits of domestic life. The soldiery who at various periods settled in the country, did not increase the gencial stock n sorry r supe- sscssingf privalc of pre- pay i'ur do not A cer- 2;cncc of I as the iiplisbed !r classes and pri- l tho su- y are ca- learning genius, \i' Hicntal lied, fCa- iiUlS S Is oiiijia C 111 The Ca- ilcruLis ile f( iii; )r ic ;tllrd ill i\ stock LDLCATION. n\ of knowledges, anil tlie oificcrs aiul noblesse were too idle and dissipated to cxieiid to llicir children the learning' which they theinsel\(s might pos- s; and Ihe seminaries atthat neiiod were too ses pe poor and iinprifrit, to render niuih service to tl le nsiiiii' iieiieralion. 'i-« f~> The clergy were the only people who could be said to possess any competent share of know- ledge and learning ; and among this order of men. the Jesuits wamc most conspicuous. Their in- ftf the Roman Catholic system; it was the policy also of tlic de,s()otic government under V. hieh tliey lived. Little bimeiit, therefore, could accrue to iUc people Irom the learning and mlor- mation of their priests ; aiid their own levity or prodi'^ality, their poverty, or parsimony, prc- ^ented them from profiting by the few oppor- tunities that presented themselves for the educa- tion of their c'lildren : henc(? they involuntarilv aided (he despotic views of their priests and their governinent, whose interest was to keep them in ignorance and subjection. The mannejs of the Canadians in the most flouri.siiiug* periods of the ireneh government, are represciitcd to ha\e been by no means fa^uiu'- •^ I. ■h. it <) 2S2 .STATE 01 1 in: rropi.r, r;i;roKi: nii; ( »r;o"i;vi m *!3 <• 1 1 . :m f. )»• M r Pi Mo, ♦(> li<('ra,l (lie risitiji^ pMiciMfion 'riio^c vlio livi'd in Hir comidv Jirc suid fo Iiavp s|)<'iit ^oo proud, or (oo la/y ;.>:ailu'r in i< . o-: n rrops, nothii'i',' was (o \)c s-ron of iiL\lillv hidi ,li 11 »oy vMiuii (MshvtMis l!:c rcapuii;' .•reason lii vai rope : liiif^ lani::ih)r ;ind Jjci^-Hf^cnco nii'vlil 'oc owiiifj to srxeral causes, 1) unn; i\ u* fxri .-'.iM' col'! vliirli hy fKn^/inp,' up ihc rivers, ]n'ev(M»l('d all tli<^ rxiM'fions of industry, ar.d prociueed 11 a u inler oi' ear seven snont}; •, (lit*v eonti'acted stirli a li:d)it of id! to 11 eness, that 'ai>onr appeared iiiisurnioun ial)!( len), even m Uio ( inesi weanuM ant 1 (i us in dolenee was iiicreascd by (inu'("^. rcjulinir, or itj- Iriiihoii ; lluii' oiilN passion svii< aimiHCJiHMil ; 1 persons of all ai'cs and scxo-; wcrci sK-i/ril an( vvilli (lie raiV^ of jlanciiij'* at a»s('nil)lics. 'I'liin iiKulc of lifr iialurally inciiMsi'il llic iiilliiciK'c of ri cuiolions of tlu' sodi, \%lu(}j aloiK^ cooslitiitc tin* riiicf iiKM'if, and (lu* iiicll'able clianii oi Ix.aulv. l^ively. p;iiv, <(>(|ii('His!j, and atldiclcd to ji,'allanlrv, tjjcy wen* iwoir. fond ot' inspirin^j;* lliaii capaMc ol* Iccliu!:^ llio (rndci [)assions. In botli sexes ti'ttt' appear- 4'd a p^Tcaier sliaie ot" devotion IIkhi virtue, n]r)r(j iclii'.ion than probity, aiid a liiiilier sense oi' ho- ooor than of real honesty. (liddiness tool; piaeo <»!' lalional annisenient, and siipei>tilion of mo- lality ; which will alvvavshe the case wlieve incii Mie t,nijj;ii( that eerenionies n\ dl eoinpensati* lor i.'0!)d vvoil.s, and that ci inies inav he expiated 1/v^ ])ia\er.'i. 'The e\lravai>'anec and dissipation whieh tluii reit»iied throu.«.,liout; society, j.revious to the co!i- (piebi <»i' (l:e eountry, while they obsti'iieted tl:o aLiriciiiUiK; as;.! ei^i.oneree of th(! eoluny, tcuided lUM) lo ( lieck the progress oi learnini^ and ll;o l lie edi;i atioM ol then* ( :i>ild ren vvas iie;i- ieeted, and \viil» hut few exceptioris, if;'noran(e iiud ilIiter.MV ( haraeterized the wlnde coninui- iiity; their dclieieiicics arc iiotieed by General !*^ ■i « I; }» I UV § % I tm «:, ifl mm ill fO »i'' ,'« ,j»i f- 'l-.f; >;1 1 'f .'3 ^ li II , J ^^V •€2^- CHANGE OF RIANNEKS. Murray, in his letter soon after the conquest '' They are very ignorant (says the General), i( was the policy of the French government to keep them so. Printing was never permitted in Ca- nada till \vc got possession of it, and few (»i none can read." The British setders who at this period esta- blished themselves in the province, were so few and withal so mean, hoth in birfh and education, that little or no improvement could be expected from them ; even the civil officers who were scut out to administer the government, were illiterate and dissipated characters ; they were ignorant of ihe language of those whom they were sent to govern, and as they had obtained their places by purchase from those who possessed the patents, they had no other object in view but to accumu- late a fortune, which could be done only by rapa- city and extortion. The immoral conduct of these men, the natural levity and dissipation of the military, as well as the inhabitants themselves, could not fail to have a baneful influence upon the morals and manners of society in Canada. The injurious effects were experienced for years after, and arc not eradicated even at the present day. It was a considerable time before agriculture and commerce began to improve ; of course knowledge and learning made a still slower pro- gress; nor did they (]uickcn their pace, even m quest cval), il to keep i in Ca- ic\y in (1 csta- so fcNv lucation, expected ^ere scut illiterate lorant of c sent to places by patents, accumu- by rapa- hen, the jlitary, as not fail brals and Injurious and arc Mculturc If course Iver pro- le, even FRENCH NOULESSE. v.ijcn (he credit and prosperity of t]ie colony were established upon a respectable footing", and were productive of riches and aDluence to the colonists, beyond the precedent of any former period. It might nalurally have been expected, that the arts and sciences would have flourished as the prosperity of the country increased ; but this does not appear to have been the case, for trade and commerce, instead of illuminating the minds of their followers, begat in them only a sordid spirit of gain. With tlie au^vraentation of the British colonists, and the diniinution of the old French nobility and gentry, much of that polite gaiety of manners, and that social dissipa- tion which before characterized the society of the towns, gave place to the more stea dy, plod- ding, and uncouth habits of business. The mer- chants and traders were more amused in consult- ing their waste book and ledger than in :u ring away at a splendid entertainment. Their whole happiness was centered in acquiring riches ; and their children, who were to follow in the same path, received no Hiore education than was ne- cessary to qualify them for the attainment of that object. As agriculture and commerce have increased, the British settlers have risen into consequence, and men of respectability been sent over to govern the country. The French inhabitants have however degenerated in proportion as the British have ^ ■■I . r irfi :•; % ' Itf ^:i I li II' I2S5 FRENCH NOBLESSE- .icquirod importance. The noblesse and scigMloV* Iiiivc almost dwindled into the romnir>n mass oi* the vulgar; their estates and aeigniories have ))eel^ divided aniorg their children, or have fallen into the hands of the opulent British merchants The few who still possess an estate or seignior) seldom live upon it, but reside wholly in the towns, equally averse to agriculture, commerce, and the arts. They visit their estates merely to l)Ick up their rents ; and in collecting these, they oiVen have many broils with their tenants, whose conlrllnitions in kind, are not always of the best qualit) ; and so far do they sometimes carry their coiitciupt of their seignior, that the latter has frequently been obliged to throw the corn and the poultry at their heads. These little frays, liovicver, arise oltener from the irritability of the seignior's temper, than from the insolence of the tenant. I have before mentioned, that the education j>'iv■'. 1 >nl't^^ )] ! ^*-| M 290 MANNl;KfT OV THK mnNCH LADIFJ. bfc: but seldom goto !\IniUical. The ladies of this last place, arc accused bytlx" I'Vench otpariaking too iiuu:h ot' the prideol'tho Indians, and of boiug nuuh wantiuf^ iti French good breedinj^. What I have mentioned above, of llieir dressing thciv head ttM> assiduously, is the case wiih ;'.ll (he ladies throughout Canada. They dress out very line on Sundays; and though on other days they do not take much p.iius wiih other parts of their dress, yet they are very fond of adorning ti)eir heads, the hair of which is always curled and powdered, and ornamented with glittering bodkins and »nigreltes. "On those d.iyswhen ihcy pay or receive visits, thry dress so gaily that one is almost it;dured to think their parents possessed the greatest dignities in the stale. "I'he Frenchmen who con- sidered things in their true light, complained very much that a great part of the ladies in Canada, had got into the perniciovw custom of taking too mucii care ofiheir dress, and squandering all their fortunes, and more, ujion it, instead ofs[>aringsomtthing for future times. They arc no less attentive to have the newest Jashions, and they laugh at each other's fancy : hut what they get as new faiihiOHs, are grown old and laid aside in France ; for the ships coming but once cveiy year from thence, ths people of (."^auadi coniidvT that as the new fashion for tUa i\ho]o yt ar, which ihe prople on boin-d linv.igl.t with thcai, or Tihicii (lu'v imrosed on tl'.ein a'=i:r\v. "The K;die-i oiC.i' i.l i, ;,ivl ('spoci.illy at Montreal, arc veiv Teaily to hu-.^h al n'\'. l>!'.!;ii!: i-? sirai'gers make in speaking. In Canada, noii-v'y eve! he ns ili- Fivneh language spoken by any but l"iei'c'.i;:v ;i : (or t Canada Dthev diiyi heir drcsfl, lie hair of ;nted witli icy dress so ts possessed n who con- nuch that a ; pernieious sqvianderln;4 v^ something •e the newest vit what they le in France ; thence, tho* hion lor tUa 1th them, or [real, arc very ui speaking. Ige sp'iken by lither, and tl)'; )Ut oblige t!v. ir naturally |inv thing uii- jiiiit iiiK\>lioii- [ul ;. ll»e '-I'-'"'-''- Ihird, VvhellKi- Ls of Uucbee. TMANNEUS OF THE FRENCH LiDIES. SDl and those of Montreal ; (hose of the last place seem to be hand- 4'onior than those of the former. Their hehavionr, likewise, seemed to me to be something too free at Quebec, and of a more beeoming modesty at Montreal. The ladies of Quebec, especially the unmarried ones, arc not very industrious. A girl of fi^/iiccu is reckoned poorly offif she cannot enumerate at least Iwenly lovers. These young ladies, especially those of a higher rank get up at seven, and dress till nine, drinkinf; tlieir coll'ee at the same time. When they are dressed, they place themselves near a window that opens into the street, take up some needle-work, ;uk1 sew a stitch now and then, but turu tlieir eyes into the street most of the time. When a young /iellow ioiiv.;s in, whether they are acquainted with him or not, they imiiied'ntely lay avide their work, sit d(nvn by him, and begin loehat, laugh, joke, and invent double en tendrcs, and this ii reckoned being very niHij. In this manner they frr([uently pass the \\'holeday, leaving their mothers to do all the business of the house. •'In Montreal the girls are not (]nite so volatile, but more industrious. They are idways at their needle-work, or doin;^ some useful business in the house. They are likewise cheerful and content; nobody can say that they want citlicr wit or cliarms. T'iiey are a|)i to thiid; too well of themselves. How- ever, tlu^ daughters of jjcople of all ranks, witluvUt exception, go to maikei and carry honn? what they have bought. They )i%e LIS soon, and go to bed ;is late us any people in the house. J ■i.ne been aj..ui\.d ihai in general their furtunes are not con- siderable, which are rendered still more scarce by the number of children, and the small revenues of a house. The girls at JNIoutreal are very much displeased that those of Quebec get husbands sooner than they. I'he reason of this is, that many young gentlemen who come over from France with the ships, are captivated by the ladles at Quebec, and marry tbem, but as these gentlemen seldom go up to Montreal, the girls there i'.re not often so happy as those of the former place." Tlie Pr()t\;3sor has beeti very severe in some of hi> % i ^'ii 'IIS; li :i« ? In 11 I 4 m '^1 ' iti i ■n? ^vi UM ■! n ifi I '1 ^ : H > i> m 2n ANECDOTE Of MADEMOISELLE remarks upon the Canadian ladies ; but I liav# every reason to believe they arc juit, The alter- ation vvhieh has taken place since that period, has arisen from the settling of so many of the British people in the colony. The manners of the Enp:Iish ft'iuales are more reserved than those of the French, and they have consequently in- troduced some of that gravity into society. The French girls, however, continue nearly the same a« described by Kulni. Many of them dress be- yond what their situation in life demands, or the pocket of their parents can aflTord. Some will also tlirt, joke, and laugh at double cntendres with a very good gr.ace, and if you offend them, will not be very choice in the epithets they be- stow upon you. They are also as fond of dis- playing themselves at the window as ever ; and, to my knowledge, this mode of attraction hasproved successful in one instance. While I remained at QucbeCj I noticed, in walking from the Lower to the Upper Town, a young French mademoiselle sitting at the window of a house, near Break- neck stairs, affecting to work, but evidently sit- ting there for the purpose of drawing upon her the gaze of the passers-by. She possessed a pretty but inexpressive countenance, which she lieightened by a considerable quantity of rouge ; and her dress was more calculated for the ball- room than for a morning chamber. I had gazed for several months upon this pretty figure, in my peregrinations up Mountain- street, when all lit MORALS OF CAXADIAN SOCIETV. 293 I huve ; aUer- pcriod, of tho mors of III those ntly i«i- !. The he siiino Ircss he- s, or the jme will sntendres nd them, they he- ld of dis- er; and, as proved ained at lOwer to moisello Break- >ntly sit- ipon her isessed a hich she If rouge ,' Ithe ball - Ld gazed T:e, in my leii all at «ncc I missed licr^ and it w&a not till my rclurn jVom the United Slates the following y^'ar, that 1 heard she had won the heart of a youth from Prince Edward's Tsiand, w ho, accidentally pass- ing the window where she cxliibited her charms^ was so struck ( I suppose with her beauty) that he married her in less than a week after, though .])reYious to that^ he had been a perfect stranger to her. Many of the Uritidi females are not exempt from the weakness and volatility ascribed to the ,French fair. There are, however, several young Jiidies, French as well as English, who possess superior accomplishments, and better cultiviited minds, than the generality of their sex in the colony. There is nothing to boast of in the morals of the higher classes of the people in Canada. The little blackening accounts of scandal are sought for, promulgated, and listened to with avidity; while good actions are often mangled, distorted^ and heard with secret envy. Those most guilty of calumny are themselves most deserving of the condemnation they pass upon others. The fe- male parties compose a school for scandal ; and as a French gentleman once observed of the ladies of New Orleans, they would be much bet- ter employed in household afl'airs, than in slan- dering the absent, and even each other when they have separated. iy i " the difficulty of procuring good servants i^ increased. Their wages are from 12 to Id)/. per annum; but their abilities do not desrrve a fourth part of the sum: they seldom stay in n place above a month, and are never enijniicd for lEMArE SF.ItVANlS. '!( \)9 iniis ('i ti }il()nii;ci' period. A servant thai remaln»i in her place four or live inonllis is consiilerccl as a pattern of excelliMice. 'J'lic eliHracter of a servant, vvliich in London is ahvavs strictly investigated befuro the p.Mson in hireil, i^ never considered of any coMscfjtience in Canuila ; no incjuiries arc made by ilie ^•;entry as to the honesty, sobriety, or vir- tue of the servants they take into their hoii£es« and the consequence is, that tliose g'ood qualities are very rare among- that chiss of people. The female servants are for the most part i2,norant French country girls, or the wives of the soldiers who arrive inthe country : they soon get corrupt- ed by the dissolute manners prevalent among the lower classes of Europeans inthe towns; norhave they very often a better example even from the Jngher orders. The ladies of Canada are not celebrated for possessing much of that domestic knowledge which constitutes the comfort and happiness of families in England. A^'hat the servants are ignorant of, their mistresses can sel- dom supply; so that the order and economy of tlie English table, are very rarely to be seen in that country. The society of the tov.ns iii Canada has been represented by some writers us so extremely gay, lively, and agreeable, and possessing r-nch friendly unnuiinity, and generous hosj)itality, that a stranger might fancy the iuhabilants formed only one large family. I am sorry that it is not 'H'i '^ Mil S9(> «f ASnAL t? ;'i,i ij if, irJ 'J (J in my power io i'liinish a similiar roprrseiitadoii. At (lie ptrioil when I visilcil Canadii, its society ■was split into parties ; Siandal was tin; order of tlic day, and ( alininiv, nusrcpresrntation, and envy, sotMncd to lia\o orcttcd thtnr standards among' tlu* lircatcr portion of the inliabitanti. The weekly papers teemed with abusive senrii- litv, and nialieions in.siiuiations ; and all tbiit gaiety and happiness, wliieli 1 had been led to expect in Canada, seemed either to have totally deserted the country, or to have existed only in (he imaginations of former w riters. It is true, I afterwards met with individuals, wliose amiable character and private virtues would do lionov to any society; but the general character and disposition of the pco])le, very ill accorded with the ilattcring accounts which had been given of them. In short, the same jealousy, pride, and party feuds exist in the society of the towns in Canada, to which all Sw all communities are lia- ble. They are engendered by the knowledge of each other's origin and private history. Thogn who cannot trace their genealogy beyond a pri- vate sohlicr, or a nullcr, in the army which con- quered the country, are of coui*se treated with contemptuous pride by others, who can boast of a long line of ancestors, that sprung, perhaps, from the illegitimate offspring of some noble- man's valct dc cliambrc, or cant- off mistress. No great cordiality can be expected to exist betweeu itatinti. societv irilcr ot* oil, ami aiulardo ibilauti. p scnrii- all 111 lit •n led to L" totally 1 only ill t is triir, ; a mi able lo honor ctcr aiul •(led \\'\i\\ given of ide, and towns in s are lia- ledgc of ThOeO id a pri- icli con- ted with boast of Iperhaps, e nohle- .s.v. No betweeii NOUTII-WrsT MKRf IIANT!«. ^-^97 •IK h opposite and hek'roij,Tn(»iis materials, espe- cially in a snnill conin iinil}\, wlicie full scope i» given to the opcnitioi; of petty toinpetition, and private mali|u;'nil\ In a lar^c nietri)p()lis tiie^c ( onleiitions vould not be f< It, they would be 1');^t in tlie crowd; but in a «ma11 town, where every one knows liis neighbour, and ^cncroitslj; interests himself in his concerns, they iiet like the fne of a voUano, which at one time convulses the surrounding neighbourljood, and atanoti cr time preys upon its own vitals. The increase of aarienlture and commerce has caused sr^eral families to rise from poverty and obscurity, into opulence and notoriety ; and the standard of indi^idll:ll merit in Canada, is too often a inin's riches or his rank : virtue and talents obtain hitle respect. The large fortunes acquired by some of tlie merchants, have tended to raise the envy of many who would wish, but have not the means, to emulate them in their sty le of living. The Nojth-west merchants, particu- larly, have been subjected to the jealous and ma- lignant observations even of those who have partaken of their hospitality ; who have drank their wine, and smiled in their face : but I never could discover that these gentlemen possessed any other fault than spending freely -svhat they had earned laboriously. One of them, who resides at Quebec, is often the but of the//iVwf/s that dine at his table: ^ct he is one that has returned ■ 11 1 'M\ • 1 •'■ji r, ! I 'Mm f I' 20S XOIlTIi-VVEST MERCHANTS. from llic Upper country w'lih a broken constitu- tion, and surely lias a right to enjoy the property which he has <>,ained by so great a sacriticC;, in -whatever way is agreeable to his taste. But his friends tax him with pride, ostentation, and ex- travag'ance, because lie is fond of giving tJiein good dinucra, an:l because he keeps two or three hordes ; cniertalns the oflicers of the army often at his liouye; and receives those of the navy with hospitality whenever they arrive at Quebec. It isj to be sure^ too much the custom among the fasliionablcs of Canada, to consider a stranger, uevvlv arrivcti, as ;in ol.iect of curio5.iiv and won- dev, as a being wlioin tliey lic've a riglit to ap- propriate in theiE* o\vn manner. "^ They survey him from head to foot, complimrnf, feast, and ^•aifcss him; but w?iea the novelty of the thing kay subsided, he U, however rare and traiiscen- thuit his nrerif, a mere nonentity, unless hn opu- l.-:-r;-;c eTicltc'-: in tham ao inferested deference.' ^MUStMEI^TS AND DIVERSIONS, 2n CHAPTER XV Ainusejiicnls and Diversions — Quebec AssemUij — Bal cle SociSte — PriuHie Tea and Card Parties -^Ronts at the Chateau — The Theatre — Pre- sent Slate of Canadian Theatricals — Dnuikcn Performers Arrival of a Company from Boston — Concerts — Fi eemasons' Lodges^^ TJie Duhe of Kent — Barons' Club — Grand Enter-' tainnicnt on the Installation of the Kni^his--^ Sociclfj of Rousticouche — Canadian Bond-Street --^Billiard.:, — CarioUng — Dress of the Ladies and Gentlemen' — O^fficers of the Armij in Tip- pets — Mutations of Fashion — Retrospect of British FasJiions — Pyramidal Head-dresses-^^ Old and Ni'io Fashions compared — Long-toed SJioes, proliibilcd under pain of Cursing by the C/crgu— fapii'ing Waists Races — Mode of Kis^iing on Neio Year^'s Day-^Dour^^-^Stovcs — Bo a rdi)ig- Ho uses . The natural gaiety and sprigliliinoss oi'inan- iKJis pacuUiir io the French people, no doubf Hdve rise to the faacinatiiia: accounts wliich liavc hcen giv(>»i ufsDriiitj^ in Canada. The long vvin- iers wei'e parlicu'ariy I'avourable to dancings an aimiseincut of which the French are passioiiatcly 'til k u ft J Ui$ m iMk^ii II »«;:?'!' 1 :| I 111 ill oOO QUEBEC ASSEMBLY. fond ; and, till ^vi(llin these few years, partiet used to meet at each other's houses, or at some convenient place a few miles out of town, for the purpose of enjoyiog that rational amuse- ment. At those periods when the inhabitants were more upon a par in point of property, 1 have no doubt but there was more real friendship and (sociability than at the present day, when richc» and luxury have created greater distinctions in society. The French, in whatever station they may be, possess a certain affability and easy politeness of manners, that can readily unbend the pride of anccstrtj ; but the natural reserve of the British, is by no means calculated to imbend the fivide of opidciicc. While the latter were accu- mulating riches, the former were falling to decay, and at length were deprived of the means of main- taining their usual iippearance. Hence the so- ciable little dances and entertainments which formerly kept the inhabitants in continual motion during a long and tedious winter, and made the town resemble one large family, are now dwin- dled down to one solitary, formal assembly ; and even the unanimity of that ^s often disturbed by the arrogance of some, and the jealousy of otiiers. The assembly at Quebec is kept at the Union Hotel, on the Parade. There are about sii xlances in the course of the scasouj for wbich the QUEDEC ASSEMULV. SC^rl Subscribers pay eight dollars. A few of tho inferior merchants and storekeepers arc admitted to this assenibl_y as a very great firjor, but none of tliem are noticed by the faslmmablcs, and indeed some of the latter refuse to subscribe, because, (as they observe) the assembly is not select. Hostilities ran so hii»h at one time, be- tween the great Little and the little Great, that the two parties separated, and formed eacli an assembly for itself It was, however, soon found that the Bal de Socicte of the middling classes was more agreeable than the Grand Assembly of the fashionables, and that even several of the latter had become subscribers to it, and danced with the pretty Bourgeoises. Uponthis, a negotia- tion was opened, the preliminaries settled ; and when the new ball-room was finished, the defini- tive treaty was ratified by the re-union of the two parties. Since then, it has been called the Quebec Assemhljj ; but though it is lield at the Union Hotel, there is little union of sentiment among the visitors, even now. The private enter- tainments are very few, and arc mere formal tea and card parties, in which frivolous remarks upon the weather, their houseliold furniture, or their neighbours' follies, form the chief subjects for evening conversation. If the governor or lieutenant-governor is not in llie country, the place is then extremely dull. During their resi- dence at Quebec, routs, levees, and a.ss(jHib!ie,s vf. \J 'J •■'t '■'•flits 202 THEATRE. rf enliven the town once or twice a week. But tliose are entertainments which interest only u select few. The majority of the inhabitants have little else hut caric lina:, to drive awav the iediiim of winter. There is, indeed, a building at Quehec, called a Theatre, and also one at, IMoiitrcal ; but the per- sons who perform, or rather attempt to perforin there, are as bad as the worst of 0';r strolliug" actors; yet they have the conscience to charge the same price, nearly, as the London theatres. Sometimes the ojBficers of the army lend their assistance to the company ; but I have seen none, except Colonel Pye, and Captain Clark of the 49th, who did not murdt-r the best scenes of our dramatic poets. It may be easily conceived how despicably low the Canadian theatricals must be. when boys are obliged to perform the female cha- racters : the only actress being an old super- annuated demirep, whose drunken Belvideras, Desdemonas, and Isabellas, luive often cnraphircd a Canadian audience. Lust year an aiteiii[)t was made at rvlojiiiciil to introducea compecii]a- tiou ; for instead ofthe shahby h;il)iiimnn(« whirh they brought from the Sta;c-', I'u'v v, ere cq\!ipncit in new suits of clothes, ha:j. s;oeks, arsd bu']d:»s. The alteration in tl^c Canadi-in corps was n]jr> very conspicuous ; and instead of tigurip.g :;\v:^y in a GAOL, as they perhaps v/ouid luue LOfie, \]:cy found their " Steni nlarms wera cli:i;ic.'i.'d to oiorrv [^^^'■:''lyf■, " ^ !(■ Ji 50 i VIIEEMASONS' LODGES. i I f^ \l *.'\„ Mi t ■ M If they coultl procure a few females, and re- duce Mrs. R -, tliat spirited actress to « candle-snuffer, tlieir company might succeed tole- rably well; though I much doubt whether the inhabitants arc inclined to spend money enough in dramatic spectacles, to support a company for any length of time. Tlic tedious evenings of the winter are some- times relieved by a private concert. The per- formers are some gentlemen of Quebec^ assisted by a part of the regimental bands in the garrison. But entertainments of this description very sel- dom fake place, either from the expense which accrues to them, or the want of performers on particular instruments. There are only two music-masters in Quebec, one of them is a good violin performer ; but for any other instrument, they are both very indif- ferent teachers. There are several Freemasons' lodges in Ca- nada; but I never heard that the people are any wiser or better for those institutions. The Duke of Kent is at the head of the Canadian lodges, and is indeed looked up to as the patron of all the Canadian youth, many of whom come to England to request his assistance. If they are freema- sons, they conceive they have a claim upon his patronage. His Royal Highness during his resi- dence in Canada, paid great attention to the in- habitants, pariicularly the French, to whom he (ij i k1 re- to ft I tole- er the igh ill ^y foe some- 3 pei- ssistcd irison. ry sel- wliicb lers on uebec, )ut for ndif- n Ca- e any Duke )dges, ill the o'land rema- in his resi- le in- un he CtRONs' CLUB. 305 gave coiiiniihSuiMS for their sons. His politeness and alt'cihilily g'liiied him the esteem of the peo- ]>lcj miiiiy of whom, I believe, really look upon liiai as their tutelar saint and patron ; -it least such is the style in which I have heard him spoken of. There arc only iwo other societies or clubi worthy of notice at Quebec. The one a bene- fit society for the relief of distressed raemberi, and the other a convivial meeting. The latter is called the Barons' club, though it originally went by the name of the Beef-steak club. This society consists, I believe, of twenty-one members, who are chiefly the principal merchants in the co- lony, and aie styled barons. As the members drop off, their places are supplied by knights elect, but arc not installed as barons, until there are a sufficient number to pay for the entertainment which is given on that occasion. Tiie ceremony of the installation of seven new kiiights, took place during the winter I^remained at Quebec. It had not happened for nearly twenty years before; and a very handsome enter- tainment was given at the Union Hotel. The new assembly room was opened for the occasion; and upwards of ^00 of the principal people in the country, were invited by the knights elect to a splendid ball and supper. Mr. Dunn, the president of the province, and who administered the government in the absence of Sir Robert VOL. I. X mm f 'm4 lip-: I '^ It" I i >•; •nmll M IIP • ^S'i 306 SOCIETy OF ROUSTICOUCIIE. Milncs tlic licutonant-f^ovcrnor, attended as t]ir oldest haron. The chief justice and all the prin- cipal oillccrs of the govcrnmentj civil and mili- tary were present. Their ladies formed a morf brilliant display that evening than on any other occasion I had an opportunity of witnessing; and the whole was conducted with a regularity and decorum that would have done credit to any similar entertainment in London. We sat down to supper about two o'clock, and it was nearly five o'clock before the company began to deptrt. By that time some of the gentlemen were pretty merry, and I left them dancing what they called bacchanalian reels. This entertainment is said to have cost upwards of 250 guineas, and wa* reckoned to have been the most splendid one given in Canada for many years. While I am upon the subject of societies in Canada, I cannot avoid noticing a singular ar tide which 1 met with in the Monthly Register published at xVew York. Whether it was in- serted as a hoax, or whether it is founded on fact, I harr never been able to ascertain. It is as follows : '' Died lately in Canada, Ytenti Fohi, aged 102, a native of China, brought to America in carij youtli. He is s.iid to have descended from the race of the Chinese emperors, and being of strong powers of mind and body, instituted in Canada a society by the name of " Rousti- couche" in imitation of those of his own naliv*' SOflF-TY OF UOUSTICOUCHE. 307 as t]u ic pri'i- d mill- a more y other lessing ; gularily t to any it down Ls nearly ) depart, re pretty jy called i is said and was idid one ictics in ;ular ar~ Rcgistci- It was in- Indcd on .n. It is Inti Fobi, America Icscended nd being- Instituted Roiisti- n naiiv*? country, and in Europe, several branches of uhich nre now in existence in the United States. Home of tbe objects of these societies are to ob- tain and preserve the curiosities of nature, to forward the arts and sciences, and to practise Olympic games, &c. It was in the act of attempt- ing to throw an iron spear weighing GOOlbs. at •d mark '^0 CcAit oil', ( cmd which he ejffectcdj that he came by his deatli, having produced a violent hemorrhage. The friends and acquaintances of the deceased will recal his many virtues, and talents to remembrance with aftection, and the Asiatic, European, and American societies of Rousticonche, of many of which he was an ho- norary member, will hear of his death with deep regret !" Credat Juda^ns ! It is a pity such a fine old gentleman could not have exhibited his feati in London ; but it is very possible we may have some of the society amongst us. I never heard of Hiere being any in Canada, though there is a river, and I believe a settlement of the name of lUsligouche, in that country, near New Bruns- wick. The summer in Canada is devoted to business ; a few parties of pleasure to the Falls or Lakes in ihe neighbourhood of the towns, are all that en- liven that season of commercial bustle. The w inter is devoted to the amusements of the as- sembly; entertainments at the chateau ; and the private tea and card parties mentioned before. , '(. *.f. ,v>. f. ?4* i^ ': ir ■%i *11 10S CANADIAN liOND-STREET, ■/i^ '.i I I i •■ .( <1 !.^ The diversion of ciuioliiig at thii season of ilic yoiii' is (lie grt-atrst pleasure llie inliahitants riijoy, and it is ci^rtaiiilya very delightful anui«c- incnt, as nvcII as a hcaltljy exercise. The fasliioiiable youths of Quebee generally drive in the hiudem style. Some of their earioles are extremely neat, and have a seat for the servant behind. They usually display their skill in carioliojsi; from twelve to three o'clock, through the principal streets of the Upper Town, parti- cularly John-street, where these savans of the whip, and the gentry, who often parade between those hours, render the line St. Jean, a sort of Canadian Bond-street. Since the arrival of Sir James Craig, and the great increase of the civil and military officers belonging to the government and the stafi', the fashionable society of Quebec, 18 considerably improved, and the town 'rendered more lively and cheerful, than during the presi- dency of Mr. Dunn. There are two or three billiard-tables in Qug- bec, which are frequented by all ranks of people. Fisliiisg' and shootiug may be enjoyed in Canada to the greatest extent. There are no game laws in that cM)untry to obstruct the pleasures of the sportsman. The diversion of skaiting is very little enjoyed in Lower Canada, in consequence; of the abundance of snow that falls, and covers the ice to the depth of four or five feet; but the pleasurei of caricling fully compensate for ihk Ml DiatS or THE LA DIES AND nFNTLKMF.N. PAY) loss. Thii rapidity with whirh llio caiiolcs i»'liti(* alonji^ good roads is nncommonly .it^recablc ; iMit ovrr roads that iire iiidillercDi or \\a\v bocii inuih worn by llie carters' s:UMi;bs, {\\v motion r(\s(nn- blt's Ibe pitcliitiii; of a v<>sscl at si^a, and is oca- ^ioned by wbat ar»» r.iWcd ra!u){: or rid ''"OS of ^sijow ill a traus\i'rse posit iim across the road^^. Those rabots arc tbrnsvd al'ier a li'-iivy fiji! oi' snow bv tb(' sU'IeIis, wbich iiatiu r ui) ajiJ doiwisit, i\ w snow 111 iiirrows fii SI At ibis season oltlicyoar, the men wra;) thcni- :lvcs up iii thick Dath ^rcat coats, with several large capes that cover their shoulders, above which is a colhir of fur. They fasten their coats round their waist with a sash ornamented with beads. A fur cap fashioned in tlie hehnet stvlcj and listslioes or Shetland hose outside their boots, complete the remainder of their winter's dress. \\ hen riding' in a cariole they arc wrapped up in a buflfalo robe, which with a bearskin apron in front, elllctually prc\ent the intrusion ofthecohl. The ladies ^^ear fur c.ips, mnfls and tippets, velvet or cloth pelisses or great coats; \vith list *)iM("3 !»(• Sh h .» Mi u U ^^*'^ » ■M li^' n r; i r I ; y. 1 't*' ■ * " Jf' ' 310 MILITAHY OFFI* tn^ IN Tiri'ETS. rap. Thfv wore printed cotton gowii«, onia- mciitrd with Iur/i;t flowers siniilar to a bed pat- tern, of which they arc; j^eiier.iily very Ibiul, \>ilh long' waists. Over their neck was a while nuH- lin iiandlvcrchief or cidourcd shawl : their ap- pearance altogetlier put nu; more in mind of. sum- mer than winter In contrast to tlifsc hidies who were walkina; about in the coldest NAcatlur, in all the airy fjaiety of the month of thine; J have seen the young officers of ^he British army wrapped up in fur cap«, large great coats, and immense lip- fctsof fur round their necks, nearly toiiehing the ground, a? represented in the annexed en- graving, from a drawing which 1 made on the spot. 1 should not be surprized if those dtlircilt young fioldiers were to introduce mufls :— they wereingeneraluseamongthe men underthe French government^ and are still worn by two or three old gentlemen. It is said, that half a century ago, the genilcmen used to walk the streets in winter, with tine po\^dered heads, and tlicir chapeau bras under their arm : this, howexer, is a fashion of too petrifying a nature for onr mo- dern beaux, and therefore not likely to be intro- duced agaiii. The dress of the Canadian ladies, at the present day, is i» every respect similar to the i!]n;i>lish fashions, ^^hicll are exported anncaily to Canada- They have a better opportunity now, ofretiivin^ ^'A 'CSMIl, ivinf: % i '^f -^-f At i; 1^) i t» i ^1 !», I >>»;• i1 ^h\ . ;I, '^ i u i! \ ' •' nl H iU ;t . m I f \\\ II- I '* J •;?» I % I i '"I US Mill ( f! of people. ''■' To-day they are lifted upon stilts, to-morrow thevlo^ver thetr heels, and raise their heads ; their cloaths at one time are bloated out with whalebone ; at present Ihey have laid their hoops aside, a»id are become as slim as mermaids/' Someuines they are encuiiibered "with clothing, at other times they are almost in -want of fig leaves. In short, the European fa- shionables are the most whimsical of mortals ; for though we find among rude nations a fondness for dress and ornamciiL, yet they are seldom ro markable for that capricious inconstancy in mat- ters of iinery, which so eminently distinguishes the fashionables of London and Paris. In short, the inhabitants of those two cities are the only people in the world whose dress and manners are hourly changing. In taking a retrospect of the many and various revolutions which have occurred in the morals, manners, and fashions of society in (rrcat Bri- tain, we are naturally f^urprized in some respects with the contrast, in others with the analogy which the dress and maniicrs of the last ccnluiy bear to those of the present. Bist so revolving, and so liabh^ to frequent alterations, are those habits and cur^toms which engross the principal attention of that part of the community, usually styled the fashion;) ble world, that or.c would imagine, the invcntioii of tlie purveyors of fashion would be enervated or exhausted, were it not RETROSPECT OF BIIITISH FASHIONS. 313 stilts, ! their loated e laid lim as iibercd lost in 'an fa- Is ; for ludllGSS lorn ro in nial- truishes to n short, the only ners are various morals, at Bii- rcr4)ccts analog:y ccnUny volving, 'e those uincipal us 11 ally would I' fashioii it not that every day brine;? forth something different to that which preceded it. Yet what we think are new fashions, new amusenietits, new manners, hahits, and customs, and new follies, are but the whiins and caprices of old times dressed up in different forms, and renewed with what- ever aiieiationor improvement, the inexbauitible invention of man dictates. h' we descend to minute particulars of dress, we shall soon perceive the near resemblance \vhich some of the modern fashio'ns bear ^o those of ancient times, as we shall also perceive in others as great a contrast: }et if we exclude a few oitirt customs and extravagancies, wc can- not upon the whole deny, that the change which dress has undergone since the reign of Queen Anne, or even within tlie last fifty years, is infnulely better, and more consistent with nature, than the fashions which existed in those periods. The mode of wearing the hair at the present day, is but an imitation of the Grecian and Ro- man style, and how much more natural and ele- gant is it, than the fidl-bottomed wig of the beaux in 1700, now confined to the heads of our judges: how preferable aUo to the immense pyra- liiiilic.il headdress of the Maccaroni not half a ceiitury ago, as well as the stu[)eiit]ous commodes, v-Mita!i£;es, and of her head-dresses of the fashion- able belles at muIuus periods. Those immense struLlures which often metamorphosed piij-miea "It '^m% til t" S14 PVRAMIDICAL UEAD-DRKSSLi. K u ' mIJ i I I? i t ': •( into giants, rose somctiiiK's in the sliape of % })ijraniid ; somrtinios like a lower ; and sometimes like a btccplc: tiiej were stulled >vith pounds of pinSj powder, and pomatum ; and covered with ells of lace, cambiie, and ribbons, wbieli floated in the wind like the streamers of a ship. This raj^e for lofty head-dresses, extended itself even to the American continent ; and we find by Pro- fessor Kalm's account, how fond the Canadi^u female was of the foutange. •ili *' Her liead adorned with tippets pinn'd aloft. And ribbands streaming g:iy, superbly raised. And magnified beyond all human size, indebted to some smart wig-weaver's hand For more than half the tresses it sustained." Though we cannot find a very anciont prece- dent for the modern coat, yet the utility, ai;d cou- ■venience of it, is evident, and however its ele- gance may be at times sacrificed to the whimsi- calities of fashion, it certainly rises in our estima- tion, when compared with the preposterous wide sleeved coat of the ancient beau. \V hat could he more ridiculous, or myre inconvenient than to have half a yard of sleeve dangling at each wrist? iiofhing surely, except the inunense quantity of lace which incommoded the elbows of our an- cient belles. In the Tamina; of the Shrew, 8hak- (I* OLD AND NEW FASHIONS COMPAKED. o 15 «pc;irc Iiumonrously ridicules (he fashions of his time, where Peliuchio says — " O mercy God! wlwt masking sturi'is liciei' What's this ? a sleeve ? 'tis like a acmi caniiUii . What ! up and down, carv'd like an apple tart - Here's snip, and nip, and cut, and slish, and sh\bh,- Like to a censer in a barber's shop." eec- cou- ele- \usi- i ma- wide on Id [lii to risl ? y of r aii- Uiak" Tlioug;h the fashions of tlic present day are in sonic instances deservina: censure, vet in otliers it must be owned, the alteration is for the better. No one can for a moment deny the utility and convenience of the SLiall waistcoat, and the pan- taloons and half boots of the present time, when compared with the long-flapped waistcoats and cumbersome jack-boots of the last century. Nothing is so common as to hear people rail- ing at the supposed extravagancies of modern dress, >vithout reflecting, or without knowing that ages past have been distinguished hs extra- vagancies much more uncommon and absurd, Ihan those which characterize tlie present day. Even the Romans in ihe latter period of their history, when corruption overran the nation, renounced their elegant and becoming attire, for tlie ridiculous fripperies of iashion : their eccen- tficities, if possible, far exceeded ours, and called forth the severe casligation of Juvenal. Some people are aj)t to be prejudiced against every r.UAiovation, though perhaps of a beneficial na- ''IM r^ ' • m n ^ It! •?■• I ■■ ii' 316 LONG TOro SHOTi. tiiie, l)(^cai!?c it M'as not the ronipanioii ofThtir \outhrLil days; %vith them e.sexy alter.ition in dress is iudicutive of foppery, k\\\(\ even tl,-- changc from the pointed to the square toed .^hoc a few veais ogo^ was regarded as ridioulou:^, aiKi Ttlucl.iiitly adopted by those, mIio with ef[Uiil reh'.ctauce, had parted with lh( ir square toe=;, which a century before were worn bv all rnnks of people, fioni the peer of the realoi to tiie d;I^I- man. Whether the poinU-d, or the square toe i? of tb.e most ancient standing, or which of them claims the pre-eminence on the fu?t invention oi shoes, I cannot take upon me to say ; butv>e are informed, that in the year 181)0, in the reign of Richard the Second, the cnstpm of wearing; pointed shoes, was so prevalent among the iii- shionable, and even among the common people of those days, that it was carried to the most ridi- culous pitch of extravagance. " They wore the beaks or pikes of their shoes so long, and which iocuraberf d them so much in their walking, that they were under the necessity of tying them up to their knees. The fine gentlemen, made use of chains of gold and silver, or silver gilt for that purpose, and others tied them up with laces." This absurd custom continued in vogue fill the latter part of the reign of Henry the Sixth, when the fashionables carried it to such a length, \\\dt it was found necessary to prohibit it, lUKicr lb;' penalty of twenty shillings, and the p'un of l u/>- PERNICIOUS EFFECTS OP TAPERING WAISTS. 317 of thfir it ion in sen It''' [>u?;, a lid lU ('C[u;il are toc^ ranks ol he dn^t- are toe i? of Ihcri) ention ol ; but v>e the reigu wearini;- ^g the iii- people ol" ost ridi- wore the nd which jng, that them up tide use of for that Ih laces." le till the \dh> when ^yxih, that luuler thi' ing bjj the clergij. I suppose the most stylish people at least, absolutely wore their gold and silver chains round their necks. We may per- haps one day or other have the pleasure of seeing this elegant fashion prevail, among' the modern rlegantes, in which case the penalties must be of a very different nature to have any effect. Wilh regard to the female dress of the pre- sent dav, there is much to be said in its favor, especially when we call to mind the formal go- thic ruils of Elizabeth, the ponderous head-dress, the heavy damask and brocade, the unnatural compression of the waist, and cumbersome hooped petticoats of our great grandmothers. When we consider the inconvenience and injurious ef- fects of such a dress, compared with the light and elegant attire of the modern belles, we can- not too much admire an alteration and improve- ment, so conducive to the health, beauty, and elegance of our lovely females. That nature should possess full scope for ac- tion, and should be unrestrained by any artificial means whatever, is a fact which requires no ar- gument to illustrate; and it must follow, of course, that the unnatural and ridiculous fashion of a tapering waist, effected by means as painful as they were pernicious, must have been extremely detrimental to the constitution ; nor could it dis- play the elegant contour of the female form to ridvuiitage.> when carried to such a preposterous \-¥ O .♦.I .-JiS IXrONSTANfV or FASHION. :« if 1 illi such rvi(l(Muv», llioroforc, of aii- ciciif ;il)smililirs. I'cw uill be disposed ((Mvilhliold iUciv a|)|)r(d)iili(Mi of i\\v, piTsciit modt; ol drrss, so coni;H!Mial (o nil mo, and sticli a |>roniofrc csp pliaii, (inM'iaii, n«Mnan, (Miiiirsr, Turkish, llussiaii, S|)jniish, am! TVt'iK Ii (licsscs, sli;»ll havr hrrn (wli.uisfcd, or (liiiincd i)f' :ill flirir imkcKv. To nliinii It) llic l';islu()nal)l('s of C-aiiada, I imisl ii(,u('l)('r siu(t« Hie arrival of Sir .lames Craiij;'. 'l\n) races <()ok j)l:!((' for (hi* first timr, in July, l;isl year, npoo fhe |)iains of Ahraliani ; snver.jl ol (he niililHry and nicrraniile p;«'ntlvilii every encouruii;pinent fioiii Iii'm, The raees aiiJisycred the views of the p,t)vernor, \vho wished to eoiieiliatcthe esteem of the Cauadiau ilabitans, as well as io improve the breed of horses. They also gratified the inhabitants wifli a sight to whieh they had been luiacciisionicd. The present j^vernur-general, seems to be awarf» of the predileeiion of the people for shows and entertainments. The French have ionji- been deprived of that outward pomp and p.trade of which they arc so fond. His excellency has ac- cordini;,ly adopted a more splendid establishment iii'di\ his predecessors, and has set up several handsome carrias'es which he took over with him He also received some line horses from England, and besides his usual attendants, has introduced two orderly dr:i;;ooi5s into his establishmentj who altei>d him whenever he rides out. Two or three of his stall' oilicers Ijave also sported their cha- riots, bcJ-idcs splendid carioles for the winter. These eqrjnafjcs enliven tlic town, a,nd please the people, who are fond of seeing the govera- ment supported with proper dignity. Sir James Craigrcsides in summer at a country house, about four or five miles iVoi.i Quobee, and goes to town every morning to irauyact buoincss. This residence is called Powel- Place, and is de- lightfully situated in a necc, aud iUaincss. Id is dc- on the MODE OF MTINO IN THE TOWNS. 321 border of the steep bauK, which overhiok^i the St. Lawrence^ not far from the spot who e Gene- ral \\ oIf(; hmded, and ascended to tlie hciivhls of Abraham. Sir James s»ave a splendid public breakfast, al fresco, at this phice, last jCiir, to all tlie priiicipal itdiabitants of Quebec ; and the following day he allowed his servants, and their acquaintance, to partake of a similar entertain- ment at his cApcnsr. The mode of living, in Canada, among the genteel people, resembles, in every respect, that of England ; and, except in such seasons as reli- gion interferes vvitli, the French inhabitants dif- fer very little in their meals from the British set- tlers. The country people use very early hours, which oblige the people in the towns to be up earlier than they otherwise would, to purchase provisions at the markets. The Habitans are generally there by break of day, and the best of their articles are often sold before eight o'clock. At noon the market closes. This early rising induces the inhabitants to retire to rest soon, which is usually about ten o'olock. ' Sixty years ago, the governor-general held his levee at seven o'clock in the morning, and the gentry dined exactly at noon. Their dinner consisted of soups, ragouts, and the usual French dishes, with a desert of fruits and sweetmeats. Silver foirks and spoons only, were laid on the table, the ladies and gentlemen being provided VOL. I, Y '■,m r;4 ■•» i;' 4 ■•>, • ■ ' ■ ■ ■ V :^'i2 MDDK 01 LIVINfi IN Till' 10WN3. i! ^'BJ-r' UH ■■If Milli tlicir own kiiivr«<. Claict mid Hpriitc bocr ^vci'(' Mi(- li(}(ioi-s iisiiiiiiy (ii'aiik, and iiiiiiicdiatrl) al'tcr dimicr, coHcf was lnouujit upon (able; alhr wliiili \]u:\ bad no otiicr meal (ill ^n))])el': this took place bclwcLMi scNcn ami ci^ht o'clock, and was cojuposcd oi similar didics as the dinner. Tlu'pioscMil iMcnthand lMi^lidip,«'niry now dine at lour o'clock, upun siibsliinlial joinis of meal, iisli, ri)vvI,;iMv!p;aiue,w iili [iiuldinu;s and pics ; drink their Aladiiia, Poll, andTeneride after dinner. Have tlicir tea and caril parlies at sevens and conclude willi a sandwich or /;i//7 .soupcr in the true fasliionable sl\le. Tlie French iidiahitants have certain fetes and holidays prc'herihed by their religion ; on those da}s they visit their iVieiuls^ and give themselves up to pleasure; and inerrinienl. l>e fore the set- tlement of tlu; English in the colony, these fetes were very numerous, and of course detrimental to buf^inessj as well as to tlie morals of the lower order of the |>eo|)le. Since then the number has been considerably diminished, and the good ef- fects irre visible in the diminution of the number of j»oor people and beggars who formerly inha- bited the towns. There are vet a few b(!'';'ar.s and idiots who arc allowed to disgrace Quebec and Montreal, when they luight be amply pro- vided for in some of the hospitals. Among the Hriiish inhabitants, the festivals of Easter, Whitsuntide, IMichaebnas, and Christ- KISSING ON NFW VI A'{'?» 1)\V IS t!i('V arc ill KnL'laml. iMfis, arc not noticed The only lioliiliiv wliicli is \ractice on t!i; sc occasions, lor the li^cndcmcn when payiir^ their respcctfj io the ladies, to salute them with a chaste Kiss. The French ladies presented their cJiccIr io ilie il^entlenien, but the IJiilish ladies v« ere •aluted o.l the ///y.s', 'i'liis lashion pievailed ifutil within Ihese few veais, \\hi:i i^ most lil:eiv was dronneJ. on account of the \isitv;rs beiiiii" so nuniv^rou*. U could not always have been a very as^rec- able custom for the ladies, particstlar'y the 0:i- tish, whose nKinner of kissinj:; was not so \veil adapted to a larj^e company as tli;it of the Fren; !ij yvith whom the custom oriii-inated. The ceremony ofkissin^'on Ne\y-y coir's day, was not, however, coniined io Canada, I'ul vas also practised in former times, in tlie then Bntisli colonics. That it is now fallen into disrepute in those parts, as well as in Canada, may be iva- thered from a pa5jsaii;e in a recent periodical work published at New York, entitled Jjal- ina»»M!n(li. '!J{ mdlk .«:! i.j i-t ; ' •*'* ,1' su DOUBLE DOORS "■ Only one thinti^, (^ays Launcolot Lriisc^stafl spcalviiig of the now year festivities) was wanting; to make every part of the celebration accord ■with its ancient simplicity. The ladies, who (I Nvrite it with the most piercing rep:ret) arc generally at the head of all domestic innovations, most fastidiously refused that mark of good will, that chaste and holy salute wnich was so fashion- able in the happy days of Governor Rip and the ratriarchs. Even the Miss Cocklofts, who be- long to a family, that is the last intrenchment behind which tlie manners of the good old school have retreated, made violent opposition ; and whenever a gentleman entered the room, imme- diately put themselves in a posture of defence; this, Wdl Wizard, with his usual shrewdness, in- sists was only to give the visitors a hint, that thev expected an attack, and declares, he has uniformly observed, that the resistance of those ladies who make the greatest noi^e and bustle, is most easily overcome. Tliis sad innovation originated with my good aunt Charity, who was ar. arrant a tubby as ever wore whiskers; and I am not a little alllicted to fnid that she has so many followers among the young and beautiful." The houses of tiie Canai'iafi- iliough always sufliciently heated by stoves, vet urr often verv inditierentlv secured aLvain^t the eiitrancc of t!)c told. The number that h.ive double windows and dooiv^ are very few., and the foiJii)g ca^c dHEi jstaii iting ^cord who ) arc tions, I will sb ion- id llic ho be- bment sr.bool ; and immc- efenco ; less, in- lat tbcv ifoiudy ics wbi) st easily ed w'itli a tybbv a little )ilo\vcr% I always len very of the K'iiidow* iN:uniOT:s effects of the stoye. mriiis in whv, v, iih so maiiy snirili panes of jrla-i, by no means snceeed iu m']j;)I!v cxebuliniv^ »i»e »;- hi'ul lit they ha. ) also one or njoic stove-), the 1 4 4 t .' 5% I^.nl;^()lR rnncTsor tiif, sTorr. r ■ J! , , il ! "lii r i>l K I f ; pipes of Mliich, pass tliioiigh tlic (linirent rooiiis in i]\c house. The stove vvliich st.lnds in (ho kitchiMi oflcii aii- swvA's ihc (loubh) purpose of cooking for thr (amily, and healing sevwal olhcr rooms of the liouse. Sloves have (he advantage of open lire- phiccs, by (Uriusing the vvarnilli more generally throughout (he roonj, but they ;ire neither so cheerful to tht; eye, nor so beneheial to the cou- tslitulion. It is true^ that in Enghuul we fre- quently roast on one side, and iVceze on the oilier ; hut \ would rather endure those extremes, than live in many of the Canadian houses, tlic beat of v\hieh is as oppressive as that of a vapour bath. For the first two or thr<^e months after my ar- rival in Canada, while i remained in the bouse, I Avas eontinually opjuessed ^vitli the beat that ifsued from the stove. It was very severe wea- tlier, and our family had, I suppose, sueh a dread of a Canadian winter, iroin the reports they had I'.eard, tliat they believed they eould not keep the istove too hot, so that we often had the heat up to i)0 or 1(10. The eonsequencc wa«f, that I ex- j}irieneed violent head-aches, and blecdmg at the nose; and I was glad to walk oiit even in the tiddest weatlier, rather than be stewed in a huni- mums at home. I have very little doubt but these stoves are the cause of the consumptions, of which somao\ e tl i\ \'-f ^Sbmim OOlliS w ai\- .1- ihc \ fire- K-rally her so c CO li- ve IVe- )n ibc Uemes, cs, (lie vapour my ar- ill. Unit re wca- i\vv hev bad lI up to ex- I \ir a V \n Hie L luiin- D()AnDi\G-iroiisi:s at oi i:r.F.e :m of tlic Canadian I'einalesi are (he vieliiii-i ; for (he ladies rather than spoil their shaj)e l)v uihlitioeal cloathiiij;-, will iiover over (jje ^(ove in (heir thin liahilinients, by wliieh ukmus (he) inhale an iin- \v hoi esoiiie \aj)i)ur thit pio\es njjunoiis to (1 jeir health, and renders their complexion pale and blCKl The furniture of the houses Ls generally made in Canada, for that brouj^lit from Knii^laiul falls to pieees in a room where (here is a stove. 1 lie chairs are mostly like om* v.iiiusor chairs, painted ii;reen, and made of well seasoned wood; the tables and other kinds of furniture are made of the beech or the maple tree : mahoj:,-:my is not very common in Canada. I'lie 1 louses arc very badl V nam ted, an d it IS not often that they arc fitted up and (Vnished in a very complete style. The neat and cleanly ajj- pearadjce of an I^iiii^lislii dwelling is very rarely met with in the Canadian (owns. The boarding-houses in Quebec are but few, and those lew are kept by Fr<'neh ladies. They have nothing to recommend them to an llnglish taste. The price ofboiirding is (rem one guinea to eight dollars perwiuk. At (lie taverns they cl uuire a doll ir icr (ia The In ion lloicl on the parade, and Sturejji's in St. John ;.treet arc the two best for strangers. I % %> .HI ivcs are ^0 inanv ^f ^^ ■' n 1/ :," i i if ■■'' ■'r>i' 'f^^' i 'S i 'I i UJ f ■i; ^ (.?• 328 ARTS AND 8CIENCEI. CHAPTER XVI. TJieraturc, Arts, and Sciruces — Marquis (h la Galhsonierc — His extensive Kiunrleclpe'-' Li- terature in Canada — ^ifmanacs— "Quebec and Moiitr cat Gazettes — -Nrzvspapers — ClucbecJMer- curij — 'Canadian Courani — Lc Canadicn-"^ Abuse of tlie Liberlij of the Press — Pub- lic Peculation — Courier de Quebec — Newspa- per Warfare — Public Library — Novels and Eomances — Amatory Poems-^-J\Ioclcra Re- finement in Writing — Tom Jones and Roderic Random — Novel Readiiig — Pictures of Fic- iitioua Life — Ai iplishnients of the Canadian Ladies— Progress and Influence of Music on Society-'^'' O, I^ady Fair" — Oilman's Daugh- ter-^Arherk'a, Mistress of the World — Model of Quebec. The state of literature, the arts, and sciences, m Caiiada, can scarcely be said to be at a low ebb, bi^rause tlicy were never known to flow; and, from what I have mentioned concerninj^ the defects in education which exist in the coh)nv, it is not likely that tliey will, in our time at least, rise much above their present level. The policy of tlie French jiovernmoil kept the peonle in a state oi' ignorance, prindnr; jncsses were i;n- kiiO'vvn, and bocks wore procured with dii- (h la ^Li- c mtd Mer- Ecn— - -Pub- Is and a Re- lodtric f Fic- nadian isic on )angh- 'Modcl ienccsj a low ; and, ig the ioDV, it Icastj policy IjIc in a c i:n- [h tlif- 32D MARQUIS 1)E LA GALIS80MEKE. DcuUy and exp/^nse from France. The general levity and disyip:iti()ii wlut'li prevailed in society, tended also io the depreciutlon of learning'. The Jesuits aii ! tlicir missionaries \,cA'c the only people pod^csi^id of a ta^te for ihe sciences, or that possessed the means and opportunities of cultivating^' 'iiat taste. T^ey inveslig-atcd with ardour t'rc naiiira' history of the country and its inhabitants, and ^^viiw tiiem v>c dcri\e the greatest part of tlic Lnowledp^'e and inforiiiation \vc have of the interior of Nortli Anierica. If the Canadian Creoles, uudei' t!ie French go- vernment, had ever possessed a disposition to cultivate the aris and scieiic -s, it would have dis- played it;.elf unilcr the administration of the Marquis de la Galis?€-.iere, v»lu) was the mo^t ac- tive and enterprizinij; governor that had ever been scnto.:^. and possessed a very extensive knowledge of every brauch of science. He was in every respect a complete statesman, and his acquirements in natural history, philosophy, and mathematics, were made subservient to the views of his go- virunient. He proiUired information from the reinolest parts of the colony, respecting its inha- bitants, aijinials;, trees, plaoN:, earths, and mine- rals ; and the 1 ikes, rivers, and oceans, that watered the extLinsive p )r(ion of ihe America!! continent over wliich he ruled. He could even g'ive a l)etler aecoujit of di (ani j)laces which he had never visited, ihan the ycry people >vho re- •i" ■t r i. ■ > >li! 4 '4 ^ ' ' -■ f«* f,'i ^ I fi/^O I.ITERATLKL IN ( VNAI) V. si(K'(c ibr scicncf; and the polite arts, had it hcen only dormant ; but the fact was, that, sprung iVou) an idle, restless, and volatile race of people, they never possessed the h^ast inclination or abi- lity to omeri^e from the ignorance and dissipa- tion info which tluy had sunk. The, sta(e of literature and the arts did nol iotproNc very rapidly after the conquest of the eounh'v bv the iMiiilish. The traders and settlers, >vho took up their abode anioni^' the French^ Avorc ill qualified to diOuse a taste for the arts and sciences, luihvss indeed it was the science of barter, and the art of gainiiii^ cent, per cciit. unon their 2,'oo(is. For many years no other work was printed in the colony, than anahminac ; not even a news- paper could hud either talents to indite, or mo- ney to support it ; which was the more surpriz- iii,<;', as those periodical publications me such favorites witli the ]>rit!sh people, and in the t nited Slates liave existed for upwards of a centnrv. At tlie present day th«\y are scattered ifkc chaff before tlu; wind, all over that immense territory; and in point of worlh^ many of them are not a whit b<^t(er than that dross. Of late years the Canadi r:is have appeared fk'sjons of esta'nlishi' i.' sonte claim U) a literary rkaiacJer. Thev seem d«. tf'rmiiied .0 make airends r V in *. NEWSPAPERS. :m for ilie nc£,lcct willi which ihcy have hitliorlo Iroatcd that pohtc and usoful a(conij)lis!ini(>nt of society. At all (jvtMil^, (iio publishing of six ekly, is a proof of Ihc ])rop;rcs- 1 J nws papers we sivc iiiiprovcmcnt and prosp< lily oi' the connliy, ^lioiigh it niny he hwt a fallac ious .syjuplom of liter; iry iinprovcii icnf, Fou .f ni»;lis]i, and contain thegoveruor's proclamaiions and(}dic(s — the advertisements of the slieriflV sales — mer- chants' stores — public auction'^, &c. — togelluT \vi th a se lect ion o f the eariic-^t inleijii'eiice cv- tracted from the EiL-^'lisli and American pa;)crs. The subscription to eacb is tweaiy 8hiilini.vs per annum, ami the price ofailscriisements is nearly the same as in England. The Gazettes seldom ii.ier \\i ill t] i(^ morals or mnnners of society ; tli;):".csi;lrj('cls are left iov the other weekly pAipers which are j>ublishid on Saturdays and Mondays. Tlie^e jKspersc oi»:«ul of tlic Quebec Mcrciivi], pithli^lud entirely in l-ng- lish, by Cary, on Monday ^Oernoon, and l;as been e>-lablished about fuiir 3 cars. The (iUid- • 1 ifc- t:ti J .1 . I I . < I.. "H <1 «. * i •> iil •SI i; ■( k V- H ■t* xvz TF. f;ANAnu;v. J/(/;j CourdNl, uho [MihlislKul in En^ilisli ;il Monlieul cvorv JMomliv, by rvalnun iVlo'.vcr. an American iVoni llu' Siutrs, wlio scl, up flit prtpei* about two ytiAblishe(l railiin t!it* bist two years. 'ji'he (MM* called IjC i'ainuUcii is couHnctet learnt that it has been carried into axecntion. The paper is still coiitinued, and the writers still continue to eom[d,iin ; tliey arc oidy mor<^ cautious in what tin \ say. It mu>.tbe allowed, that a wafciifid eye should bo ke[)t upon the public ejvjX'uditure of every counlrv ; and the defection of tlie hi'i (\)!Uini^- \\ id |) the apcrs lislicd m1 I)^ !( ncli VIMCC. 1- pay licli it IS an'.l ^viitri* I'iy <>r of (bo proper com- li ini- s said ctions at pu- arried i lined, : tlicv sliould cvrrv oniHiis- MTFRAIIT SOClT.Ti', 133 sarv-fT^nrral in Canada, as wt to a I'cry al.inninijj (lrfj:;i'<'0 in I ho goviMinncnt (d Upper Caiiada, wlii( li cdl lor iruincdialo invrs- ligation. Evrn tlu! jiu.c rrpnlilicann of the I'nitcd States, who arocontinijally HiJfakini!; will) reproach of the ohi and vicious {ujovcrnincnts of laifopc, confc:?'; thai they lal'ly liad a Vicf^- prcsidcni on trial for Ir^'ason — a S( nalor of Con- gre'';enins in sutb a couniry sbould he hailed with pleasure. T!ic Alcrcunj and Cauadidii Courcr.it are de- voted to ncwn, and all the various ephemera svliicli ' ii V\. k- V '}- !.':■ ^'\ »-^' V*" .*« ?" ■ '0 ' I- ■ If., ■' Ov> NEWM'APlilt NV AUIAUK. » .1 ti ■JJ'i 'm ubU'illy .'jppriir In jicrlotlii al \v()il\s of (luit da- swiipiioii. 'V\\v. oi i;;iniil cssiiys wliic-h ;ij)j)r.ii', are merely ofii local s);iiure, ami arc gtMicrally llu' oflopi 'lu; of purly dispuladoj)^ JicrinioMV, and slander ; and arc of course {icnerallv written in * \*» it, aiid .sejiso, and Nature's spite.' The wrilors in these Canadian papers, are like their l)r<'lhren of J'nL;;lan(l and the United States, if in coiislant warfare with each other. ' Volumes of words have been expended, oceans of ink have been shed, nor has any mere} been shown to age, s(;x, or condition.' This icribblini; warfare is no doubt necessary to tlie existence of some of these paperSj ^vhiell are oTten supported by the desire tijat people have to know what one says of the oiher, and what both say of fliCDi. I have fr(v cpiently noticed in l^ondon, that whenever a news- pat)er is published, it is not out tlireedays before t!ie wailioop is rais(Ml, umiI it begins an attack u[)on some old eslablisliei! joru'ii;il ; this draws on a retort, and \o it thev «■•<>> ^^'H uiell ; discliar<»;inir \;)linn>v of abuse at each oiher, and scatterini*: tlieir dirt in the faces of tlieir cir-itomers, until liie. i'ani'.? of the new one is fully established, or the other is liied : tiiey tlien both agree to a suspension of their /y/Av/ arii^s, and con: promise their dilfereiHV's hv a coalition for or against the liiiniitry, as !>.} pal l( c. ft J IS siiuiii, aiii! very imniu'rrisiy sup liii; \l I>li('(l \\itli iK'W |)iiblii'a(it)ns. 'I'ln; l)t)i)!is tirc.i:- lalc only ill thai titv, aiaoii.*** thosi; iiihahitauts lo >>tlh^(•|•ih(' h ovi'ls and romaiici-s arc mos ill rcqiu.'st auioii!;' the Caiiailiaw ladicb, t as t! 11 >v iiihv'd arc aiiionj;- the ladit's of iMiropc. These are tlie only books \vhieli Keeni fo have any eharuLs lor the modern lairbex, and it is ol" lilth; conse((ncnte ni the opinion ol many, how ilu'y are written, or what they eonlain. 'i'he depart- iMcnt ofiiovel-writinir, which, likp all oti'.er works 'f>' of fancy, requires taste, jii(l,«;-nient, and abiiifv, lias of late ye^u's fallen olV considerably, from its wonted spirit and orijj^inality, though it must he confessed, that the lanii,uaj2;c is in j^eneral less of- fensive to delicacy than the celebrated novels of Smollett and Pieldiiii;-. But small istlie numh.r t'lat arc written with the aljilitie^ of iho^e wri- ters, or that ]iav(; any claims to pre-eminenre over tlu' hetero.2;i'neoiis mass wlii. !i the pr(!ss so a.])UiK!an itly h tl ivisiies on t!ie piiolie ; aiu bli d it IS or e.-i lamentable fact, (hat the few whicli are superi to the rest, ha'»e too often been machi tlie \ehiv! of innnoral sentiment, or dangerous phiiosopln . Throua,*h the medium of a novel or romance, the voluntuarv lias conveyed in the most insinuatio'r lau!iua?;e, his imiuire and libidinous sentiments, and the sophi.-.ter has iji fused Ins dani;erons and iiisidioiis o[)inions. Eut to amuse is tiie obieet of these writers, and tln^v c ue n.d h(^n much >oem, written by our refined, but licentious, mo- ilvrA author:^. Few, indeed, can sit down to ved'S ihern, without faneyins,' themselves the heroes or ')eroinr> of (he tale ; and the fictitious picture of life, wliich is there represented in such glowing rolouis, creates in them a feeliiig of di.-gust at their own situation. When they cast the book a«i(le, thev find themselves to he common mortals, iMcipablc of realizipL^', in the present state of society, those romraitie attachments, of which thev were enamoiued in the novel. They per- ceive that the virtues of mankind, instead of being cru'ri^ulto excess, are often sullied by failings, and even vice ; and that the vicious part are not to- tally exempt from good qualities. In short, the « haractcrs in real life are seldom or never liable to those extremes which are to be found in VOL. 1. z !»■ ►sy i '»j if pii } ■ ' 3.18 NOVEL READING. 'ft! If , M r.' Jiovels ; and the absurd ideas, and impure senti- ments which arc continually broached in works of that description^ have often been the means of carrying some of their fair readers to the Magda- len, or Doctors' Commons. The ladies of Canada have not, however, so many temptations thrown in their way, as the ladies of Britain ; very few new publications, good or bad, ever make their appearance in that country. The printing-offices at Quebec and Montreal are the only book stores in the country, and those collections consist chiefly of school books, and a few old histories. Reading is not altogether so general an amusement as it is in England ; and I believe that the Canadian ladies spend the greatest portion of their time in doing nothing, or at least in doing that which amounts to no- thing. The polite accomplishments of drawing and music arc almost strangers in Canada, i never heard of more than half-a-dozen who un- derstood either, and they were but moderate pra- licients. But the Canadian ladies labour under the disadvantage of indiftbrent teachers, in almost every branch of polite education ; it would, therefore, be severe to censure them for not pos- sessing extraordinary talents and accomplish- ments. Many of them, however, have natural genius and abilities, that only require to be pro- perly cultivated to render them in every respect equal to the European females. )•} THE oilman's DAUGHTER- .Til) irc senii- n works ncans of Magda- , so man? ladies of »d or bad , countrv. Montreal md those ►oks, and >gethcr so and ; and pend the nothing, its to no- ' drawin*i: mada. 1 \vho un- rate pro- ur under in ahuost it would, not pos" :omplish- natural o be pro- y respect It would be a curious sjbjectj for research, to investigate the progress and influence of music npon the morals, manners, and disposition of society in England, for it never was so much in vogue as at the present day : it almost seems to supersede many other branches of female edu- cation, which are more necessary to the cultiva- tion of the mind. A fine shape; a good voice; and a sufficient knowledge of the piano, for " O lady fair," appear to be the chief requisites for young ladies, and all that engross the attention of indulgent parents, and fashionable governesses. Young ladies of all ranks mix together at the elegant seminaries in the vicinity of London; though, when their education is finished, some go behind the counter, or into the kitchen, while others step into a chariot. On entering a small oil-shop, once, near London, my attention was suddenly arrested by the dulcet strains of the oilman's daughter, who was practising her les- sons on the piano, in a little room adjoining the shop. I could not help admiring the whimsical circumstance of having three of my senses brought into action at once, by such opposite ma- terials. My sight was regaled by the mops, brushes, and brooms that hung over my head ; my nose was assailed by the elfluvia of train-oil, turpentine, and varnish ; while my ears were de- lighted with the melodious sounds of vocal and instrumental music. . >.] t*l ^V pill :« ., 1iii t. i' ^40 MODEL OF QULBtC. Refinement is the shrine at wliich all classes of the community now sacrifice, and it will most likely, in course of time, be carried to the same extent as it was in the most splendid asras of Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman grandeur ; till, like the refinement of those nations, it reverts to its almost primitive state of barbarism. The Americans, no doubt. Hatter themselves that, as improvement has been travelling westward since the beginning of the world, their quarter of the globe will prove to be the phoenix that shall rise out of the ashes of European luxury and refinement"; that it shall survive the wreck of nations ; and reign, in future ages, mistress of the world. Before Iquit tlie subject of the arts in Canada, a country seemingly more capable of supporting, than creating genius, I must not omit to mention, with the approbation he deservedly merits, a gentleman of tl^e name of Dubcrger, a native of that country, and an ofilcer in the corps of engi- neers and military draughlsmen. He is a self- taught genius, and has had no other advantage than what the province afforded him, for he has never been out of the counlrv. He excels in tlie mechanical ar*ru and the drawing of military sur- veys, &c. He had the politeness to shew me several of his large draughts of the country, and many other drawings, some of which were beau- tifully done, and are deposited in the engineer's oili< e. The only correct chart of Lower Canada^ '*!: MODEL OF QUEBEC. 341 and \v]ii( li was published in London, by Faden, in the ii.'unc of Mr. Vondenveldcn, was taken by INIr. r)iiberg:(!r, and another gentleman, whose names had a much greater right to appear on the cliart, than the one \Nhich is at present there. But the most important of his hi])ours, is a beautiful model of Quebec, U])on \Nhich he is at present employed, in conjunction with a school- fellow of muic. Captain Br, of the engineers ; whom I had the unexpected pleasure of meeting in Canada after an absence of ten vears. The whole of the model is sketched out, and a great part is fniished, particularly the fortifications and public buildings. It is upwards of 35 feet in length, and comprizes a considerable portion of the plains of Abraham, as far as the spot where ^i'oUe died. That which is done, is finished w ilh exquisite neatness; cut entirely out of wood, and modelled to a certain scale, so that every part will be compleated with singular correctness, even to the very shape and projection of the rock, the elevations and descents in the city, and on the plains, particularly those eminences which com- mand the garrison. It is to be sent to England when finished, and will, no doubt, be received by the British government with the approbatioa it merits. ... ii'., , ... ROMAN CATHOLIC CLERGl . CHAP. xvir. I l:f Roman Catholic Clcrgjj — Religious Order. •i-^- Toleration of the Catholic licligion — Charm In of the Canadian Priests — Zeal of the Niuis— Double Funcral'-'Fe tes and Holidays — Num her of Clergy in Canada — Errors and Cor rnption of the Boniish Church — Fallen Slate — Harmless at the present Day — Canadian Ca- tholics— ^hish Catholics — Catholic Einancipa- tion-^Disint crested Conduct in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth'— ^Unanimity — Richard Bro- thers — Johanna Southcott — Religion of our Ancestors — Reasons why it should be Preferred —^Variety of Religions — Exemplary Conduct of the Canadian Catholics — Conversion — Anec- dote of First Cousins — Protestant Clergy — Bishop of Quebec — Trafalgar Dinner — Pm testant Religion in danger. When Canada surrendered to the English, the free exercise of the Roman Catholic religion was stipulated for, and granted. Its minister^ Mere also to be protected and supported as they had formerly been. The Jesuits and Recollets only excepted, whose orders were to remain as tluv then were, without receiving in future any aui^- iOLERATION OP THE CATHOLIC RELIGION. 343 liieiitation of their numbers. While there existed an individual of their order, the revenues and property belonging to it, were to be at his dis- posal ; hut at his death, they reverted to the king, and the order became extinct. Of the three religious male orders at that time in existence, the priests alone were allowed to in- crease their numbers, and to officiate in every re- spect as they had been accustomed to under the French government. The female orders being charitable institutions, and beneficial to the colony, were also allowed to exist, and were per- mitted to fill up their vacancies and increase their establishments as they had formerly done. They were to be protected in their persons and property, upon the same footing as under the French government. This toleration of the Catholic religion, and of its monastic institutions, was a measure of ne- cessity rather than of choice. In a conquered country where the whole populatio -as of one faith, it would have been a dangerous experi- ment to have attempted, or even to have shewn a wish to subvert the established religion. No- thing more than what was done, could be done with propriety or safety. It would have been worse than Quixotism, to have forced 80,000 people to adopt the religion and form of worship of 500, who, exclusive of the king's troops, wer® gU the Pritish subjects that icttled ift the pro- . i* \rj -\ I ...If ...i ^ Vl i\ ,314 TOI.rUATION OF THt: CATHOLIC KKLlOKJV viiUT, for more than fdnrlc'cii years after llir con. qr.,\t. lf(Micc it appears, dial ilic toleration of tli<; CatiK lie relia;i()n, atul of tlie females iiistilntionsbe- Ioi!.<;iiij»- to it, was a matter not only of necessity, but of sound policy. It was necessary to obtain the confidence of tlie people, and tlieir aflTection for tlie new government. It was a measure of policy, because, as long- as the priests found that lliey enjoyed tlie sariie riij^hls and privileges as they possessed before the conquest, it was of lit- tle consequence to tliem under wliat government they lived, and in return for the protection they received^ they would invite the people to obe- dience. They perhap.'^ felt tlicmselves rather elevated ilian depressed by the change ; for on the extinc- tion of the other ecclesiastical establishments, their order became tlie only male one in existence. W hercas^ when they lived under the French go- vernment, the priesthood was only second in rank, the Jesuits taking the lead in all affairs of importance; and no little degree of jealousy existed between those two powerful bodies. The priests, therefore, gained a certain degree of im- portance by the change, without having their property, their rights, or immunities the least impaired. That they are sensible of the protection they receive from the English government, and the beiicfits they derive from the constitution undec I(»V tlir roil' m of lllf; lions b ohiiun iflTeclioii isurc of iiul that egcs aK LS of lit' :)rnmciit on they to obe- m.k & h elevated extinc- bmc'uts, islence. icli go- ond in [Fairs of ealousy . The of im- 5 their c least n they nd the undey «■■•!! < ■' ^ Witt -3 ■t ^\ .H H. it \ll 1> '«. I 'll I 'l M '■]■''■ I M 'I mm ■'■ r t^^I ant fire ddi •^S^. ■_, ?*?^Sia»i^*v*-. - vi>Ap«^l c- •r^ \ m MlAUACrrU OF TMK CANADIAN riUESTS. oij wliidi tlioy live, is suniciently (l(Mnonsfi i^cil by tin.',, conduct luA Ix-liavioiir, uhicli Iitivo c\(r biu'ii l»iji,i'y have imbibed the same spirit of toleration ; and that they have not only teased to persecute for the saivo of religion, but they forbear to importune, even though they ♦j« « 1 » *.. •» ii' "ip H •»i r>! rt? t f "M U M f f& ^ t* r w\ '*' ?. > 'i:i Iv 'J I h i ■■] , t !•' 54G ZEAL OF THE NUNS. should gain a convert by it. It is no doubt in grateful return for the tenderness with which their faith has been treated, that in Canada, wc hear nothing' of t'lat enthusiastic spirit of prosc- Ijtism, for which the priests in other Cw.aolic countries arc so celebrated. The Canadian priests concern themselves only with their Catho- lic parishioners, with the Indians, or with those who have no religion at all. But the Protestant subjects, as far as I have understood, they seldom (Or never, interfere with ; and if ever any of the Protestants do exchange their faith for that of the Bomish church, it is more owing to the negli- gence of their own clergy, than to the [ ^rsuasions of the French priests. The nuns^ owever, appear to be more desirous of gaining onverts, ihough I never heard of their being ver success- ful. A singular instance occurred abou eighteen months ago, upon the death of Dr. Syms of Montreal, who had attended the Hotel Dieu of that city, as physician for upwards of sixteen years. At his decease^ the nuns of the Hospital^ claimed, and took possession of his body, for the purpose of burying it in their chape), declaring that they had converted him to their communion^ and that he died a Roman Catholic. Mr. M*G -, the intimate friend of Dr. Syms, reso- lutely opposed these zealous ladies, and demanded the Doctor's body, in order that it mi(;ht be :a- terred in the Protestant burning" ground. Th,^ FETES AND HOLIDAYS. 311 niin3 stood out for some time, but were at length reluctantly obliged to part with their dear Doc- tor. Thej were, however, deterniiued not to be deprived of doing honour to the soul of their con- vert, though his bodjj was not in their possession. A coffin was accordingly procured, and carried with much pomp and ceremony into their chapel, where mass was said for the repose of his soul ; after v/hich the empty coffin was buried with great solemnity, the bells of the cathedral and chapel tolling during the whole of the funeral service. The holy sisters declared they had saved his soul, and it was of no consequence what became of his body. I was told that the Doctor had left a sum of money to the Hospital in his will. At all events, the ladies were determined to honour his memory. The multitude of fetes and holidays, which under the French government, checked the indus- try, and increased the poverty of the people, arc now nearly abolished. A few only of the princi- pal Saint's days are enjoined by the church, the rest have sunk into oblivion; so that a Popish pro- cession is now a very rare sight in that coun- try. There are seldom more than two or three in the course of the year, one of which is the Fete Dieu: and was it not for the accidental sight of a priest, or a funeral now and then, a stranger in Canada would scarcely know that he Jived in a Catholic country ; yet the number of I If ii I m t • i " f '1 ill '■ '. f i ^^ " .'Jin , If '|: . n 1 . 313 CORRUPriON OF THE ROMISH CHI'UIH. Catholics, compared to that of the Protestants^ i^ ns icn io one. There are labout 180 Catholic priests and \2 Protestant ministers, inrliidiiio- those of tile disscnlin.^' professions. Among the Protestants, Ihe cluuclu-s of En;*land and Scot- land are most numerous. Not\vith^landin?>' the Catholir p-' (ha;; he was two centuries arjil a hait'ag'o. Mere wr. may see witli our own eye-;, the inianimity Ihut |>rcv;iil.s in many parts of Europe, in the TJnilcd irtatcs of North America, and iDore pariieulai ly in our own colony of Lower Cajiada, hetween Catholics and Protestants, and hetween Chris- tians and Pagans of everj denominatio!!. There we hear of no disputes, iio persecutions on ac- count of relig'ion ; no insurrection^., plots, and con«i'Iracies to subvert the i::overninent!s, hecauF^c ♦ hev are not of the true fiith. In short, as to Knipoia! inaUeri?, relig;u;n is onlv a secondary coiifci({(Tation with theni ; and while the\' are alh)\^ed to iollovv' the dictates of their own cois- •sciente, and toeniov equal rijjh.la, liberties, and inununilies, one with the other, ihoy look only ta tlie preservation of that forn^. of g'ovcrnmeni am! that system of thin^'?, which protect them in the enjoyment of those privileo;es, and defend them from foreign ui-urpation. From the unanimity wliich reigns in tho>r coiuidies, \\iih rcp'ard to religion, let us tunf our eve- to our own count^'v, where (illetu luiilioni' ofpeople areafraid oCtrusting only one- iiftli of their number, and their own countrvmen, too, v.\{]y e(|ual rights and privileges with them- selves. If tiie Roman Catiiolies were reallv such a desperate body of people as they are repre- sented to be, [ am really astonished tha* th*^ . I vil JOHANNA SOUTHCOTT, 353 Canadiiuis Iimvo not long ago clearsd the colony of o\cry Fiiifilish heretic that had set foot in it. Why they, as Frenchmen, and old inveterate enemies, should he more tendrr of us, than the English and Irish Roman Catholics, who are our own countrymen, is one of the marvellous mys- teries of this eventful period. An indilferent per> son, judging of things merely from common sense, might perhaps think it was owing to the difierent mode of treatment, and that we fostered the one while we persecuted the other : though this may not he strictly true, yet it is certjiin, that too little attention hag hitherto been paid to the interests of the sister kingdom. This is the age of toleration, and was it not for the praise-worthy scruples of our excellent sovereign respecting his coronation op.th, there could exist no reasonable motive for continuing the restraints upon the Catholics, while the dis* ciples of madmen and knaves, of Richard ro- thers and Johanna Southcott, range the kingdom at large, to the misery of thousands, who :,re duped of their money, and (Vprived oi their peace of mind. To be sure it i< a very easy and convenient mode of getting to heaven, by paying a guinea for admittance, and procuring a sealed passport, the contents of which are as blasphemous as they are imperative — " Admit the hearer to Heaven/' — is all that it contains ; VOL. I. '^ A « r>'h J. ' ^■^ '■ikii 354 THE nELIGION OF OUR ANCnSTORI but if the piety of a Chrislian is not sliocked by ^hc commanding style of the words, and the arU- licc by which the ignorant are swindled out of their money, I do not envy him his feelings. It Johanna had made her disciples a present of the letters which wore to admit them to Heaven, as actors compliment their friends with free ad- missions to the theatre, there wonld have been occasion only to pity her insanity ; but as it is, there arc very strong grounds to reprobate her knavery. It is, I think, more to the credit of a maji io adhere to the faith in which he was initiated from the liour of his birth, than when arrived al manhood, to take up with any plausible doctrine that may be broached in his presence by the artful or ignorant enthusiast ; unless, indeed, that his conscience really revolts at the errors or ab- surdities of his own religion ; then it is praise- worthy to depart from them. Independent of the veneration which we feel for the religion of our ancestors^ we are more likely to keep to that in which we have always been bred ; because, were it even Paganism, no sin can attach to us on that account. How far the sin rests upon the head of those who originally departed from the worship of the true God, is a matter which surely cannot affect their offspring for thousand* of genera- tions. We are told that the sins of the fa tilers arc visited upon their children, unto THE RELIGION OF OUR ANCESTORS. 355 .f i Hi [fH;P •!•• Iliigoiiots, Miiggletonians, ami Anabaplisls ; aad of flicir innumernblr brandies and raniilications, cafhofvvhcj has a distinct form <»f its own. Were a person, possessing no sort of ruiib, or form of worship whatever, one, in short, who never had an idea of going to Heaven through such means, were he, I say, to have his choice of such a mot- ley collection, how diflicult would he find li, to select the right one. But when he was toUhhat each of these separate sects, absolutely declared that its faith was the onlij true religion'^ilud its followers were the onljj clccl people of God — anil that all others would be carlaslinvjjj ditiiincd, — he must be so staggered by the iri formal ion, tliut he would naturally decline !;uving any thing to do with either ; and would most likely prefer the dictates of his own conscience to all tlie invi tations held out to him by the missionaiics ot such a variety of contradictory religions. It is better, however, to have an imperfect faith and form of worship, than to have no reli- gion at all; for a man's mind is seldom firm enough to carry him safe through the allurements of vice, without the guide and support of some- thing stronger than his own conscience, which may be lulled to sleep when it interferes with his pleasures. A man without religion, is like a ship without a rudder. He is left at large on the ocean of uncertainty, tossed about at the mercy of a k CONDUCT OF CANADIAN CATIIOLICI. 357 iroublcd mind, nor docs he gain tlie peaceful haven until lleh'gion comes to his aid. For filYy years the Roman Catholics of Canada have lived under a Protestant government. — They have been dutiful and obedient subjects^ and when our other colonies shook olTtbe yoke of Great Britain, they remained true and faithful, notwithstanding great inducements were held out to them, by their neighbours, to follow their example. This steady adherence of the Cana- dians to their conquerors, can be attributed only to their due sense of the benefits they had received from them ; and to the firm attachment of the clergy to the British government ; for had the latter been inimical, either from religious or po- litical causes, they could with the greatest ease have stirred up the whole body of the people to rebellion. There were only 500 British settlers in the colony, and sometimes not a thousand troops ; and it is well known, that General Carle- ton saved Quebec, when besieged by General Montgomery^ chiefly by the exertions of the inhabitants. The Roman Catholic religion has been no way injurious to the Protestant establishment in that country ; for though their number has in- creased from SO/JOO to 1 80,000, yet the British have increased iVom 500 to 20,000. Some few instances, it is true, have occurred, in which Protestants have renounced their faith for that of « '.'■ Ibh 5'^ Ku I: m m <^. 358 CONVr.R^lON. the Roniisli rhurcli, but this po-isihly hajipnud ill ihoHC [AsLVvs \s\\vrv t immoral set of men ; it was, therefore, oflilllc consequence vvliat faith they professed, when their tv'orA.t tended so little to the credit of them- selves, or the edification of others. If such men entered the Romish communion, it was more owing to the inattention of the Protestant clergy than to the otTiciousness of the French priests. It is possible, however, tliat some of the latter may have been guided by a desire to make pro- selytes, but it was by no means general ; and in- deed the Canadian priests have seemed anxious to discharge only their own functions, without in- terfering with those of the English ministers. As to the latter, they cannot be charged w ith even the most distant wish to convert the Roman Ca- tholics into Protestants, nor perhaps are they sufficiently qualified for the task. It is not a haughty, supercilious behaviour that will win the esteem of the Canadians ; on the contrary, thej re a people of such polite and easy de- meanour themselves, that they are rather re- pulsedj than invited by the manners of some of the English clergy. ^*fli ANECnoM OF FIRST COUSINS. 359 It is u inistoituiK; for tii< IVotcstuiit interest in pMieral, and for the Kn^lisli eluireli in par- ticular, tiiat any of »ii n ■•ii 4 '.Ml- 1 f i Ta 'M! I llf; i' ? '^^ 'I it lilt i ' 1' 'i 360 PROTESTANT CLERGV. which was all that he was worth in the world, but the priest refused it. The man then applied to the Protestant minister at Three Rivers, wlio readily offerrd to marry the Habitant and his cousin, upon paying the customary fees, which did not amount to more than three or four dol- lars. The haniis were accorcH igly pi.'olished three Sundays, and the marriage was about to take place, when the French priest, afraid proba- bl}' of losing both man and mcuicy, sent for the Habitant, ?.nd told him that he had represented his rase to the bishop, who at length agreed to receive the 60 dollars. The man had paid the Protestant minister his fees, hut he could not be liappy without his ov.n religion, which his priest declared would be renounced by marrying in the Protestant church; and that he never would ad- minister the sacrament to him or his wife if he persisted in his resolution. The poor fellow ac- cordingly parted with every farthing he possessed, and was married to his first cousin. This is one of the artifices that has been ingrafted upon the Romish faith in order to extort money from its votaries. Marriage was even prohibited to the fourteenth degree of relationship. But the church assumed a power of dispensing with the law ; and, to such as were able to pay for it, with the exception of parents and children, and some other very near relations, a dispensa- tion was in most cases readily granted. nisiior OF QL'KBrc. 301 world, applied rs, who and his J which )ur dol- iblished lb out to I proba- t for the resented greed to paid the \ not be lis priest ig; in the ould ad- ife if he [low ac- Dssessed, is is one pon the Vom its ited to But ng with pay for hildren^ spensa- If tl]c Pr.;(c-.tant clcrg'y in Caiinda were pos- sessed of rrppc(l:?l;!c abilities, aiKl of jjloasinj; manners, Iheir ir.uiience would l;o very e:itensi\o amongthc Prcnch Canadiausj and it iy more t!r.i:i probable that UKiny oi' Ibcm would efip<)us<3 the Protc'stant faith ; for as they become on!i.\Hi(enec", they perceive the f^lariiig absurdities of many partij of their religion. While 1 was at Three Rivers, an old man changed his faith, and at- tended the Protestant church ; but the service at that place is at present on such a despicable fool- ing, that I am afraiii few others will be teni[)ted to exchange their shewy worship for the defec- tive and poverty-stricken one of the Protes- tants. The Protestant bishop of Quebec is said to be a iiian of abilities, and a most eloquent and masterly preacher, but I never had the pleasure of hearing him. His salary is 3,t)0i)l. perannuni, and he preaches iivo sermons annually ! If there are any d^dects in the Protestant cida- blishment of Canada, they are tlio defects of its ministers, and not of the relioiou ; ruoii'ili ih^^y are such as may be easily remedied, buCciuse they spring rather from nep;ligencc thasi wilful errors. But in the Roman Catholic s^^lem, the defects are in the religion, and not in those who admi- nister it, IVluch praise is however ^\\(^, both to the Pro- testant and Roman Catholic ^dergy, inasmuch as ''\W^ 'i I (■«'• j <• i . r^ ^' 1^ M *| PROTESTANT RELIGION IN DANGKU. ill. ' } m'. ri\ they have lived togctlicr for a scries of years, upon the most amicable footing, and have never dis- turbed the peace of their parishioners by illiberal attacks upon each other's religion: and, however they may difler in some points of faith, they have both laboured in their ministry with that gentle- ness and forbearance, which arc the principal features of the religion they profess. I have heard only of one instance where any thing like jealousy has arisen. It occurred at Three Rivers, upon the celebration of Lord Nelson's victory off Trafalgar. The English minister was affronted because the French grand vicar of that town was placed at table on the right hand of the president, and him- self on the left. This he considered as a great indignity to the church of England ; and, if there had been a printing press in the town, there is no knowing to what length his zeal might have car- ried him, and what a furious pamphlet he might have written in defence of the Protestant religion: fortunately there were no dexils in Three Rivers^ io that the grand vicar remained unconscious of the offence he had committed, or the honour he had enjoyed, and the worthy clergyman confined his chagrin within the little circle of his own parishioners. I' 1*1 I I I ABORIGINES OF N, covered with birch bark, and they lived nearly in their usual style. But afterwards they laid aside their huts and erected houses after the French fashion; they also adopted many of the French customs, their mode of dress, &c. ; and several Frenchmen settled among them, which tended still more to accelerate their conversion. i h - M|2 '''' II I f-«»1 :^j| lb:' ; i» >h i It fi'i' i ^i; <) .:iO}» riiENCH PECULlAUrnLS. It k a prcuiiur trait in the cliaraclcr of the l''rcii(lij Ih.'it fhcv ran unheiul Iheir dispositions, and a^aimilate tlienist.lvcs, more tlian any other l>L'Oplc, to the manners and customs of the country >vhere they reside ; it is natural to them, whctlier prompted to it, or not, by inclination or interest. Tlus accoramodatinj^' dispos>ilion was of much service to the French government, for those indi- vidnals who sctth.d amont;' the Indians, intermar- ried with manv of the females, and by that means attached them Ltill more closely to the French intere.'it. This was more or less the case in all the soKlements v>hieh (lie Frencli government at- tempted to civilize; and, in consequence, the descendaiif? of these people arc at the present day almost wholly of a .nixed blood. It is however remarkable, that the Indians though so closelv allied bv inlermarriasres. have never cniered fully into the European mode of living; but fuJlow, with few exeeptions, the same indolent and erratic life, which distinguished their ancestors. All the domiciliated Indians in Lower Canada, employ themselves either in hunting, or fishing ; or are engaged by the merchants in the North-west fur trade; very fewattenu much to agriculture : what little corn they raise, is ge- nerally cultivated by their wives. Some of tlieiii keep a horse and cart, a cow and a few pigs ; but the greatest part of them depend upon fishing and bunting for their subsistence, and often procurf GROUP OF SAVAGES. so: a surplus to dispose of at market. The money which ihey procure fromthesale of those articles, or from the furs which they carry to markd, is always spent in rum, of which they are extra- vagantly fond. I have often stood a considerable time in the market-place at Quebec, admiring the whimsical appearance and gestures of a group of these sa- vages, handing the rum bottle to one another, examining the contents as they put it to their mouths, and then placing the bottle in their bosom under their blanket or coat, where it would not re- main three minutes before it was handed about again. During this while they shake hands, laugh loud, and talk vehemently; sometimes brandishing their fists in each other's face, in such a menac- ing attitude, that a stranger would fancy they were quarrelling : this, however, does not hap- pen, unless they are very much intoxicated ; at other times they appear good-humoured and friendly. Their external appearance is extremely forbid- ding, and often disgusting ; a dark swarthy countenance, with high cheek bones, prominent nose and chin, and long black coarse hair, hang- ins: i«i disorder over their face. Their lanky limbs sometimes wrapped up in an old ragged coat, dirty blanket^ or tattered shirt, which latter is most commonly their sole coverhig, and is ne- ver taken off, changed, or wash«d^ as long a& if--'* r • el 1 1^4 , h'U ^ UG^ SQUAWS. % .'I !i ' 1 n 1/1 'I I -I .. hit ■■'i '•'I '5 H •1 if .h tlii'j.' is a n>j^" left. Sitcli I; ilic miserable gaili a'sJ :i})pcaranci' of moit f)f those half civilizcdj }iili' -a\ur;e ii!ha!)if:iii{s of tiic liulii^ii >ilhn;, are p;encrally pretty, but after twenty- .Ove or thirty they g-radually fail o'i'in beauty, and acquire every apj>earanee of premature old a:\e. This early decay seems to h?. constitutional, or the etVect of th.e cliu.ate, nsther than the consequence of a liborious life; for th.e women 'in the Indian viihures aDuear inr.re indolent than industrious, and suend more time in sittin;^ idly in their houses^ than working; in (lie fields. They also prefer sedentary to active employments, and like the making' of VOL, ). o i B it? -^ 't''a ill ^ H \\ ;rM \ 370 CIIAl'EL AT I.OllLTli:. Iff! VV^ 'ill baskets, nioccasliis, and othct sjuaU arliclos^ he*,. iit than cultivating tli{» lirld or j;ai(k'n. It dur^ not thercforf appraPj that an early decay is llu; result only of the laborious avocations in ^^hi( !> they are employed : it may, perhaps, be the ea'* with the uncivilized tribes, wbose niea)is of e.\i,-,t.- enec arc more precarious, and who are more < \ posed to the vicissitudes (d' the weather. 'Dm constitutions of the women who reside nuich ai liome, must, however, be greatly injuicil by tip constant use of stoves with which they warm lIi' i bouses, and cook their victuals ; so llint smnijif and winter they inhale the noxious vapours that continually issue from the wood cMiber:-;^ tiirouuli the crevices of the stove and pipe. T1)C buildings of the Indian villai;es corre- spond witb the miserable appearance of then owners. The bouses are mere shells, devoid of al- most every necessary article of domestic use. A wretched bed in one corner, a stove in the middle, and a few broken utensils scattered about tll^ room, form the whole furniture of au IiKliiii dwelling. The apartments are abominably ii\ ihy, ana witb the broken casements, present ;i' Ibrlorn and repulsive an appearance it^ the pev sons of their inhabitants. There is a cliapcl in the village of Lorctu where mass is performed by the priest uiid* t vvhose care the Indians are placed. They ai-. f^aid to be very attentive to the pcrfoimuncc o. MISSIONARIES. 371 thi'ir religious ceremonies, the service of which appears to in:ikc a considerable impression upon tlicin. The Roman Catholic religion is perhaps hviivA' adapted than any other, to catch the atten- tion of untutored savages. The poinp and cere- mony with which it is conducted, while it pleases the eye, is calculated to make a more lasting impression on their minds, than the plain and simple instruction of the reformed religion Weliave suilicicnt evidence of its efficacy in the success of the Jesuit missionaries, who esta- hhshed themselves in various parts of the Ame- rican continent, but particularly in Paraguay, where they had gained over an immense number of converts. This success may, however, be attributed as much to the indefatigable exertions, and the genius and abilities of the Jesuits, as to the pe- culiar advantages of the religion they taught. On the other hand, our methodists and anabap- tists, whatever merit they may deserve for their zeal in the cause of the Gospel, have, it must be confessed, made but little progress among the pa- £,ans in different quarters of the globe where their missionaries have been sent. Their success has been confined chiefly to the lower classes of civi- lized society, all of whom, have more or less knowledge of revealed religion. But among the American Indians, and the savages who in- habit the islands of the South Sea, their at- i; ,♦; 2 B « } »<'■ .;•) if • '* i .., i« I '' :n'^ 1^ 1>1AN Dia.al. lias been WAy :3l()\v. The <'rt':iU\sl j)tirl of (lie Iiuliiius in T.owir Cu- iiudii, luivc tlu^ wn.'lrhcd a|)[.caraiice hefuro do- scrilx'd, :i few onlv, ami I'iD.sc aro ])rinfi[}allv clikdVi and lli(.'ir I'mnlics, wlx) paint aiul dct'Ofalc tlicnis: Ives in a superior manner. ?«o fa^Iiion. able LiUropoan can l)e promlcr of bis d.cr.s, (!kui Uk; Indian cliicf. 'Ihc cloalhin^' wbicli the In- dians receive aiinuall}', conuots cl.Icfi) orblaidicl.^; but cU)tbs of tbe most gandy cob)urs^ are dlAii- buled to tb(! chiefs and th^ir fainihes, who al.^o decorate tlicniselvcs in a profiiiion of iiilver or tin ornaments; ear riiiii,s, bracelets, and medal^, Nvliich Ihey procure either from the t'^overnmcut, or from tlic produce of their furs. The woiikn) wear a bhick beaver liat, ornamented with fea- thers, and bands of variou;7 cidourL'd ribbons, lu which are attached a number of small slUw crosses or other ornanjeiits. Sometimes they we.ii a curious peaked cap of cloth, \er} ingeniou^lv v/orkcd with coloured elk hair. Tiieir black glossy hair is combed smooth and parted over their forehead. They wrap themselves up in a mantle^ or piece of cloth of a blue, green, Oi scarlet colour, bordered at the bottom with broad stripes of yellow and green silk. In warm weuther, they fasten it round their waist, and in cold wea- ther they put it over tlielr head. Tliey also v. ear a jacket or shirt of large pattern printed cottuii. !i)un( sirea foreh liie of '^-' ije i^iUC u ; heads, »ije;^J.: i!ie \v I IXniVN DRFSS. 373 .illi ii [\MV (»f lilueor scrirlot l(^j;'^ii)gs, rc^cinMiu^* |):iMi;i1oiMis ; uiisl their inoccusiiH are curiously wimIvcM with elk li.iir, or porcupine (pillls dvrd of \;i:ious colours. Sonic oftlie nnouicu paint llicir faci's, and loud i!i(»ir ]>cisons witli a profusion of Mlv(Toraiue materials, anaUie.^-au'ie 1th fall iOil as tlir);-:c O >f le women. Knives, sashes, and belts of wampum nu •w .'f * Nv t f I w i s- y 3'j ^iiffl^^ t, '5 ' k I 'h 374 CRADLE BOARDS. are indispensable appendages of iheir dress. Tiic wampum is made of the shell of the clam, and purchased from the people of the United Slates in considerable quantities by the Indians of tlie Upper Province, who use wampum belts in all their conferences and meetings. At the end of every harangue, a belt is delivered for the purpose of reminding the parties of .wliat has been siid^ and as a proof of the excellent memory whidi (ho Indians possess, it is said, they will remember for years, the substance of the discourse that was de- livered with each belt. The women carry their children behind tlicir back : they are wrapped up in swaddling cloliis, and fastened to a flat board, with a piece of hick- ery-stick bent over at the top ; upon this, a piece of cloth is fastened, which covers the child, and preserves it from being plagued by the musqui- toes and flies, or scratched by the bushes when going through the woods. This mode of carry- ing children is well adapted to the wandering- life of the Indians, and their fatiguing journics though the forests. It is also worthy of imitation by soldier's wives who follow an army during a campaign. On Sunday, the Indians are all drc:t in their gajest apparel ; the women then decorate their children upon these cradle boards, with a \ariety of coloured ribbons and painted cotton clothes. The face of the child is all that is seen, the arms and feet being confined under the band- Ui' FA'CAMPMENT AT tOINT LEVI. 375 'dress. The le clam, and 11 i ted Si ales diaiis of tlie iielts ill all tlie eiul of the purpost; i been c.iid; y wliicli (Ik; member for Lhat was de- lehind tlicir ling cloths, iece of hick- this, a piece le cbild, and the inusqui- usbes when le of carry- wandering* ng- journics of imitation ay during a are all drc:t len decorate ids, with a iited cotton that is seen, ;r the band- ax<'siind cloths, which arc wrapped tight round the body, so that it has a great resemblance to an Kgyptian mummy. The practice of confining the feci one over the other, is said to create that awkward gait which most of the Indians are subject to, by walking witli their toes turned in ; others say that it is contracted by their mode of ??itting in their canoes. During the summer, when the annual presents are delivered at Quebec, upwards of 200 Indians are encamped along the opposite shore, as far as Point Levi. They consist chiefly of detach- ments from the Mickmaks, Chalas, Abenaquis, and other small tribes who inhabit Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and the south shore of the St. Lawrence. They stay between three and four months in tlieir encampment, and after receiving their presents, return to their respective homes. They hunt during the winter, and dispose of their furs when they go to receive their presents the following summer. While I remained at Quebec, I had an oppor- tunity of seeing these Indians. They differed very little from those of Lorettc, except that tiiey appeared to have les& European blood in their veins ; but their appearance was equally as filthy and wretched. On tke day that the pre- sents were delivered out, about the latter end of AtigU8t, haviig lieard they were to have a dance ia the cump, 1 went over with tM o gentlemen of ,i^ii .. i •H, ♦' i ft 576 FEMALE PUGILISTS. my acqn.iinUncc, in orc'er to be present at the entertaiiHiRMif. It was about five o'rlr,ck in tlie ai'teiMooii wlicii wo arrived on tlie opposite side ol till" river, and by tliattiiDO loanj of tlieiii were iiitoxiealed, amonp; whom were two or tluce squaws. Tiiese ladies were qiiarreliui:;, and abus- ing- <;u}i other nio.st violenti),, till from altcrca- tioiij iliey at length })roeceded to blows ; in a mo- ment tiic two combatants were down upon i]\o grouml, rolling, kicking, and tumbling about in the saiid. Thev beld one anotlier last by the hair, by which means thev pinioned their heads toire- tiier upon the ,!;round; kieki'.g out their legs, and iitleriug the grossest abuse tlicir tongues could invent. Tlie other ^vomen endeavoured to part them, but to no purpose. Ihe men walked about unconcerned, and ne\er interfered wilU the quarrelj tliou^j^h the women were both mar- rif^d. Tiie fr.iv had now lasted upv»'ards of an hour, and miglit have continued till dark^ if some of them had nni ■d\)\)\'icd to the chief, to put an end- to the distuibance. He accordingly went U] ., and in the coolest manner, ordered tlie wo- iiiiii vvlio sii' . ..uiKJed the tN\o amazons, to force ti'.em .isu.aierj ^^nd carry them to their respective tents. ihe oroer was immediately complied witl:, and haimony restored throughout the canij). Th'' chi^'f vva^;> very respectable lookiiig man, about 40 years of ai^jj with a counienance and lit the ill tlie c side II Vtoro tlirco i abus- Itcrca- i a mo- )on tho )Oiit i[\ le hair, fi top:c- ongucs urcd lo svalked J Willi I inar- B of an f some )ut an / went le wo- ) force Kulive ni plied ut the 2: man, •ce and INDIAN CniFF. 377 icRhnTs \n'v inurh resniibliiiff Mr. John Kern- b!(\ His (;o;nre was iinble and malesliC;, and his corj|)lr\ion much liihicr llian tlie p'cncralilv offiio Indians. His disposition seemed to be :»rave, cool, and deliberate, aiul p(uTectly well adapled ibr the g'overmiient of the rniie, uncivilized rare which he liad und( r his clnirg'e. Vie found him busily emplojed in disiriinitina," to tb.emen, wo- men, and children, their slinre of the presents wliieh had been delivered iiito hi.s care from the stores at Quebec. A well dressed Indian stood on one side, and at intervals handed him a pen and ink, with wii!iven them as a treat tliat dav, than to their oilier presents, and were talking, laugliing, and cu; crii'g about in the nmst antic manner, 'i'hey were cor.tinually goii-.g up to the chief, and teazing iiim for more of the precious liquor^ but ♦'' 4J Jilt' mm hi n mm ■V^ ' r:?: I'A-' ip^i i ' ■t'l ^ii:1-li iU'tV\'f^ #f:,hi 5; 8 INDIAN CHIEF. Iw* refused tliem with jj;reat good humour, telling' thoiu that they had already had too much, and that he must reserve the remainder for the dance. W hen they went away, he observed to us, what a ])iated, but he would have displayed extraordi- nary abilities. We had a good deal of conver- i A^- '■•?'■ tellings ■'.^ b, and ■ , . tlance. ■; to us. ■- legrade -.; less tor .^: 11 mail •; > of the «; guide women ■■ (cr use, i >y their \ I was ) n obser- i; ist have resisted re vale nt )sc who >ean set- INDIAN CHIEF. 310 cif liad delivered out the presents^ it wp^s dark, and fires were lighted in ahnost eycYV tent. Mtuiy of t!ic Indians with tlicir squaws and eliikhen, were huddled round the fne, [)icking' some pieees of dried salt fish, or ^atinp; soup made of bullock's head, of wliieli liiev arc rciriarkably fond. Thov arc not very nice \n (heir cooking, and will boil the lieads v.iih all the filth and dirt upon then), as they are brought home by the men, who hiive perhaps laid thorn down fifty times upon the diity steps of doors, or on tlic pavement at Quebec, while they stop to drink A^ith their friends. , The tents or wigwams, under which they sat, or rather squatted, were extremely small, and formed of a number of sticks, placed at proper cli'tances, and secured together at the top, leav- ing a amall hole for the smoke to go out at. The f-iicks were covered from top to bottom with pieces of the birch bark, which if they had been properly secured, might have afforded a good shelter from the weather ; but it was then fine and dry, and the bark was carelessly put on. An opening was left between the sticks on one side for an entrance ; but the whole wigwam ap- rearcd scarcely sufficient so allow of two men to lay at t!ieir ease ; yet in many of them there 1 M INDIAN DANCE. 3Sl were five or six in family, buddled togcilicr, Icav- ini^only a little space in the centre for the fire. They burn the birch bark, Avliicli gives a c^ocul light, and consumes slowly. When tliey lie down to sleep, they crowd loc^ether like a litter of pL'fs, to keep themselves warm. Even the chief and !)is family must have followed a similar plan, ior Hiis tent was of the same materials, and uiT()r(iiHl no better accommodation than the rest ; yet his fa i»ily consisted of a wife, two daugh- ters, a son, and his mother, an old woman whose shrivelled face would have led nie to suppose sii3 Avas ninety years of age, instead of sixty. About nine o'clock at niirht the dance com- nienced, by the light of the birch bark, pieces of which were rolled up in the form of tapers, and licld by some of the old squaws who could not mix with the dancers. A log of wood about eighteen ox twenty feet long was placed on the ground. On one end sat a man who rattled a calibash fdled with small pebbles, and Iituinneda sort of monotonous cadence, in which he wai joined by the dancers, who were about thirty in number, and moved slowly round the piece of timber in a sort of oblong circle. They fol- lowed one after the other, but so crowded, that they had but just room to move their feet, and were in uangcr every moment of treading upon each other's heels. Men and women were pro- miscuously intermixed, some in gaudy dresses. " A.. I'iU i H ■ i .♦, HI l "\'i*\ •■'M 'ifS li 'J ',« :•: lit I? t i ;!' i.'. Ill ( " §mni ss^i INDIAN DANCE. olliers in dirfy blankets, and many only in an old rag'gcd shirt, that reached but half way down Iheii' thighs. Tlie squaws, and some of the men, merely danced along- in a sort of shuffling motion,* but others moved their limbs violently, clai>ped their hands, and beat the ground forcibly with iheir feet. All, however, preserved the most exact time to the monotonous harmony of the calibash, and the aspirating CAdence o^jt/o-he-'naw, which they seemed to fetch from tlie bottom of their breasts. The sameness of this rude species of music, was now and then relieved by loud shouts and yells, which, with the extravagant antics and gestures of some of the men, whose brains had been well steeped in rum, together with the exhibition of their swarthy limbs and dishevelled jocks, which hung in wild disorder over their faces, made me at times fancy myself among a crowd of bedlamites. This entertainment, I was informed, is very different from their war dance, which I never had an opportunity of seeing during my stay in America. Mr. Destimauville, a French gentle- man, the agent and interpreter for these Indians, was present, with his daughters, and several other ladies and gentlemen from Quebec. The Indians are very fond of Mr. Destimauville, whom they have known many years, and to please them, he and his daughters joined in the dance. The young ladies borrowed the scarlet garments tmmmt . V^ PASSAGE ACROSS THE RIVER AT MCIIT. SF^' of Oic chief's daughters, together with their hals and feathers ; and having cohmred their faces Avith a tinge of vernnlion, shuffled away with a great deal of spirit in the ring of savages who formed the most motley group of human beings lever beheld. The Misses Destimauvilles made exceeding pretty squaws, and were much ad- mired by the gentlemen present. The dancing had continued without interrup- tion upwards of two hours, when we applied to the chief to take us across the river to Quebec, as we did not like to trust ourselves at that late hour with* the otlier Indians, most of whom were intox- icated, lie promised to take us over immediately after he had given the dancers some rum, and accordingly brought a large tin kettle full, out of his tent; then standing at the head of the ring, he handed a glass-full to each Indian, who drank it eft', and moved round without interrupting the dance. I noticed that very few of the squaws took it ; and injustice to the men, I must say, that though apparently much inebriated, and dancing frequently in extravagant attitudes, yet nothing indelicate, or offensive to modesty, oc- curred during the time I remained there. The dance probably continued till near day-light ; for if the calibashman or any of the dancers are tired, they leave the ring., and their places are supplied by others. As soon as the ruin had been handed abcul. 'j'l Sv klh W'' If I ' I s h fi .'^S^ nOMICII.IATED INDIANS. the chief put the rcniaindiji- into his icni, aiivl IcR his son to L»Miard it till his rcl an. lie then lifted his bark canoe upon his hcail, and carried it to tlic water side, where having- launcljed it, we nil g'ot in, and squatted down at tlie . bottom. Tlie ni'»ht was cxtrenielv dark, and there were several sliips lying off the town, whicli with tlic strong tide that always sets in there, renders the passage frequently very dangerous ; hut onr skilful chief carried us into the Cut dc Sac, with- out meeting with the least obstruction. lnde;;d little danger is to be apprehended from the In- dians in the management of their canoes, v. hen they are sober ; so extremely dexterous are they even in the roughest weather, when their liiilit and fragile bark lioats like a cork upon the surface of the water. It requires, however, that the passengers should squat down, and move neither to the right nor the left, otherwise they will be assuredly upset. Before the conquest of Canada by the English, the French had made considerable jnogress in civilizing the Indians, of whom there were up- wards of 16,000 in the province. At the con- clusion of the w^r, their numbers were reduced to 7,400 ; since which, they have continued to diminish, and at the present dny the number of domiciliated Indians in Lower Canada, does not exceed 2000. The rest of the Indian tribes within the boundaries of Christian population in V TRAVELS IN THE INTEUlOn. 38 J British America, retain but a small glimpse of the religion wiiich the Jesuit missionaries took such {)ains to implant in them : the attention which is at present paid them by the British government, and the annual presents that are distributed, are merely for the purpose of preserving their friend- iihip, and not for improving either their moral or political condition. The United States, on the contrary, have passed several laws, empowering the president to promote civilization among the Indians, by distributing useful domestic animals, implements of husbandry, money, and goods, as he should think proper ; and to prevent or re- strain at pleasure the vending and distributing of spirituous liquors, among all or any of the In- dian tribes. An ordinance similar to this was p3ssed by the governor and council of Quebec, in 1777, but was never properly acted upon, and is now totally neglected. Mr. Jefferson, indeed, seems to have paid par- ticular attention, during his administration, to cultivate the esteem and affection of the Indian nations on the borders of the United States ; and he has been successful, both in improving their condition, and gaining their friendship. The philosophical spirit of the president, and the leading men in the government, is no doubt well adapted to such pursuits ; and we find that they have rendered their talents subservient to the public interest. Within the last four or fivt VOL. I. ^« »lj| rT it; m m wm r'SO VOYAGF, UP TllF, Ml*SOl'UI. '( 'mi ■1.1 vcars, tliov have puslkul (lu-ir discoveries tliroujiii the interior of (he Norfh American continent lu the shores of the Pad fie Oeeiin, and have e\ plorcd that immense tract at the liack of theii territory, which appears likely to helon^- to llicni by the purc!:asc of Louisiana; fi)r, at pr( siMit, the boundaries are not dcnnitively sctlled. The ex- ample of Sir Alexander M'Kenzie, most prohablv stimulated them to such an undertaking:, thouf/h his travels have not alforded much additional in- formation to tlie stock we before possessed. Tlirv were undertaken more for mercantile than philo- sophical views, yet are highly meritorious, ai. the exertions of an individual unaided by govern- ment. The discoveries of Captains Lewis and Clark up the Missouri, have but very lately been pub- ]is]ied by those gentlemen. TI. " other aecounts are by individuals employed in that expedition, whose information with regard to the inhabit- ants, natural liistcry, &e. must necessarily bo very imperfect. S:)me letters from Captain Lewi^ and Messrs. Sibly and Dunbar, at the com- mencement of the journey, were laid before Con- gress, and have been since printed : they contain many interesting particulars of the Indian tribr^ in Louisiana, some of which are numerous, and others consisting of only eight or ten persons, Many have totally disappeared within the last fifty years, leaving behind them no other vestige VOyAGE UP THE MISSOt RI. 38: til'tlicir liavini»:oxisft»(l, than thoir imnn', ^vllich is j)i>ssil)ly prcservetl by a v'wvv, or i\w hact of 1:111(1 Nvhicli tlicy occupied. 'IMiis i»r(Ml dcpopii- hitioii of Die liuliaii nations is coiiiinoii in iiiany pails of the AMicriraii continent, inoro especially ainonir those who have intercourse with the European seitlemcnls, from whence tliey pro- cure spirituous liquors^ or catcli a variety of dis- eases, of which the smal!-{>o\ liasprovcd the most fatal. Many nations have been lotallv extermi- nated by that disease alone ; and wlieti \ was in Canada in the spring- of U'OS, a villaj^e of Mis- sissagas, rosidin. '( v t 1 'i ^ I ' 1 1 I' J ; ■ }i] •i I Is 30O INDIAN PIlESENrS. in ibo (lihiied blood of his civilized posterity. This iiiniihihition of tlio native Indians, will ho brou«;iit abont more by their piecnrions mode oi livinii;, the extravapmt use of sticuj;^ liquors, and disease, than by civilization oi intermanias^f^ with the Euro|)eans ; thon«;h the seltlinjj; of the latter amonc; them, nuist ever be considered ii=; the sole cause of their present diuiiiuiJion, aiul ultimate extinction. Except in the Jesuit settlement of Paragunv. httle prof^ress has been made in tiieir conversion, cither from paganism or baibarism. Of the nature of that settlement, little more is known, than that it consisted of an immense population, jieldini:; obedience to the Jesuits, who erected a commonwealth among the Iiidians, and trained them to agriculture, conmierce, and the arts. In North America, the European govcnitncjits liave been less suceessrul ; a few t; ibes only have of late years been brought to forsake lljeir enatic and ])reearious life, for the more certnin and doujestic one of a'^riculture. Tiiese peoph* live chietly in the territorv of the United States, v, jiose government has been indefatigable in its eiu!< a- \ours to make them men a«. well as ( hrisiid/is. In the British settlements of Uppier and Lower Canada, less attention seems to have been piid to their civilization and conversion, than to main- tain their friendship and alliance for politienl purposes. Large sums are yearly expended ii» CIVILIZATION OF THE INf)I\N:<, :.i9 1 presents, \vliicli ilio fiHlians rccrivc moro as lljoir rii^iit, lliiiii as a fiivour. Tiiey arc well aware tliai tlic ij;(>V('rmnciii lHvcs l])rin (!!-e of their furs, and i^et drunk with their favoinite hcveriige. At those periods tlicy will perhaps atiend, with their families, at chapel, dressed in their hcst clothes on Sundays ; when Ihey will kneel, cross tliemselvcs, and sinjs^ hymns in the Indian lanii;na«'e, with apparent devotion ; but the rest of the week .'e misfortunes than blessings. ttmmt in the LlllS to lid the laii to 1 their ey M'ill chapel, ndays ; nd sing pparent ?V Sfivc indo- be seen ts, half enncss ; forlorn ^iviliznl ch thcv Euro- ssion of ; them Chris- : and of Di- rt arises nii2:ht tad en- the old les thasi A REM\UKAliLE bPtiltll. J9j 1 shall conclude my observations upon the In- dians with tile following remarkable speech de- livered at Le Maiouitinong", entrance of Lake MichigaHj by the Indian chief Le Maigouis or the Trout, IMay 4th, 1807, a'? coinino; from the first man whom (jod created, said to be now in in the Shawancsc connti y, addressed to all the dilferent tribes of Lidians. This curious speech I received in Canada, as authentic. I* will serve to display much of the Indian character, their manners, customs, and anuisements. Its policy, however, is to detach the Indians from their con- nexion with the whites; but a very singular hatred is expressed against the Anglo-Americans of the United States, from which, and some other passages in the speech, I rather suspect it has un- dergone some alteration in the hands of the Cana- dian interpreter. Hut such as it is, I lay it be- fore the reader. The Cliicf, Le JMaigonis, holdin^i; in his ; ight hand eight strings of old wampum, four white^ and four blue, said : " BrolJicrs, these strings of wampum come from the Great Spirit. Do not despise them, for he knows every thing. They are to go all round the earth, till they are lost. They were sent to you by the First Man he created, with these words: " ' Childreiiy I was asleep when the Great Spirit addressing himself to another spirit, said: ' I Til. ?■' ■* T*t' nil'" s- M <«i h M'^.: 596 A remarkable: 6P££ril. 'ifi.;!',.;i ?if J'V^\ !< i i l.ft '■ '^-n have closed my book of accounts with man, and am g^oing- to destroy the earth ; but first I y>\]\ awaken, from the sleep of the dead, the first man I created ; he is wise, and let us hear if he has aught to ia.y.' lie then awoke me, and told mc what he was about to do.* " ' I looked round the world and saw my Red Children had greatly degenerated : that they had bccoiHe scattered and miserable. When I saw this, I was grieved on their account, and asked leave of the Great Spirit, to come and see if I could reclaim them. I requested the Great Spirit to grant, in case they should listen to mv voice, that the world might yet subsist, for the period of three full lives: and my request wa? fi-ranted. " Now, therefore, my Children, listen to mv voice, it is that of the Great Spirit ! If you hearken to my counsel, and follow my instruc- tions for four ij cars, there will then be two dayg of darkness, during which I shall travel unseen * This man goes by the name of " The Prophet" in the upper country, nnd his influence is said to be \ery great over the In- dians in the interior. Thus we find, that prophets are noD conlined to our own happy island : but 1 make no doubt, that nianyofour s«a/ed countrymen and countrywomen who are running after Johanna Southcott from one end of the kingdom to the other, will, (if they should ever read this speech) turn up their nose at the Indian, and quote a text from Revelations, t« prove that he is sl false projihet. A REMARKABLE SPllECII. 397 strut- days nseen through the land, and cause the animals, such as they were formerly, to come forth out of the €arth. The Great Spirit bids mc address you in his own words, which arc these :' *' JMy Children, you are to liavc very little in- tercourse with the xvhilcs. Tliey are not your fathers, as you call thein, but your brethren. { ami/our lulhcr. WJjen you call me so, you do well. 1 am the Father of the English, of the French, of the Spaniards^ and of the Indians ; I created the first man who was the common fa- ther of all these people as well as yourselves, and it is through him, whom I have awaked from his long sleep, that I now address you. )3ut the Americans, I did not make them. They are not my children, but the children of the Evil Spirit. Thet/ grew from the scum oj the great xvater, xvhen it was ti^oubled by the Evil Spirit, and the froth was driven into the woods by a strong east wind, thet/ are immerous, but I hate them. They are unjust, they hate taken away your lands, which were not made for them. " My Children, the whites I placed on the other side of the great Lake, that they might be a separate people. To them I gave different manners, customs, animals, vegetables, &c. for their use. To them I have given cattle, sheep, swine, and poultry for themselves only. You are not to keep any of these animals, nor to eat of their meat. To you I have g^iven th« deer, the .> ^ . t 1 * V ^- 398 A REMARKABLE SrEECH. boar^ and all wild animals, and the fish ihiii swim in llie rivers, and the corn that throws in the fields for vour own use ; and you are not to give ijouv meat or i/our eorn to tlie ^vhit(^s to eat. " Mjj Chiidrci}, yon may salute the wliifes V, lien you meet them, hut must not shake hands You mu'^'t not ^ct drunk ; it is a great sin. your old men and chiefs viaij drink a liltlc pure spirits, such as come from Montreal! But you must not drink one drop ofxvhiskey. It is the drink of Hie Evil Spirit. It \vas not made by mc, hut by the Americans. It h poison. It makes you sick. It burns your insides. Neither are you on .iny account to cat bread, it is the food of the >vhiA\ it to the wl.ifes. It was not mnde for them. I run lo al! the (rce^ of the fore«t ioi- voi:r I! c; b:ii ihc ::>aple I love best, because it y'wlib. s\ii:ni: f;r youi- iilllL' ones.-f- You must ^- VivA qr.anUiIcsof Indi.i!i corn r.ix* raised by (lie IiHlian5at Arhrc Cioclic, n vilhige f.;i miles in lcn;^t!i, I^ing on Lake iNIicliigan, vX the distai^cc ot nine tnik'S from Micliilimackinack, II is purchased by the traders, and is the principal food of their men employed in the fur tiade, t Sugar is also made by tiiem in great abundance. A single family makes from 10 to .^0 mokoks, (as ihey call them) con- L' I A KKMAr.kARLF. fePKECH. 599 make it only lor tljein ; but >*ell none to tlie whites. Tliey liavc unotlicr siiirar which was made expressly for tlieni : besides, by making too miieli, you spoil the trec^, and give them pain by cutting and hackiui;- ihem, for ihtij have afcdino, l:Lei/oiirsclvcs. IT you malvi^ more than is nccess:iry lor your own use, you shall die, and the maple v. ill yield no nioie water. If a white man is starving, you may sell him a very little corn, or a very little sugar, but it must be by measure and weiiiht. '' Ml/ Children, you are iiulebted to tlie white traders, but you mn^t pay tiieni 7i') more tJuui half their credits, hecam^e iheij Jurjc cheated you. You must i)av them in skins, irinu«, canoes, &c. '■' to' but not in meat, corn, or sugar. You must nof dress like the wliites, nor weir hats like thcni, but pluck out your liair us in anrient times, and wear the feather of ihe e.ii'r.^ on yoia* heads; ;nul \\\\c\\ the weather is n<)i i^i<^vere, vou inust ^o na kcd, exeeotiniv he /. U'il CiULil aiM }■ ou are cloaihed, \i m he in slviiiS, or i wl leatl wn ler own drcssino' of your *" iMij Cliildren, you eni)i|>lain that the animals of the forest are few and scattered. How should it be otherw isc .^ You destroy them your.selves^ ^»^ ^^£ ^W pjiif^ taining nn average of 25lbs. each. It is sold to the traders, and IS wcrih from 5d. io6d, per lb. It is olien superior in white- iie»s to the best Muscovada s'jgr^r. ^ :' ' 400 A REMAHKABLE SPEECH. 'ii MX ', for their skins only, and leave their hodles to rot, or give the best pieces to the whites. I am dis- pleased when I see this, and take thcin back to the earth, that they may not come to you again. You must kill no more animals than arc necessary to feed and cloath you ; and you are to keep hut one dog, because, by keeping too many, you starve Ihem. " Ml/ Children, your women must not live M'ith the traders or other white men^ unless they arc lawfully married. Rut I do not like even this ; because my white and red children were thus marked, with difierent colours, that they might be a separate people." [Here follow f:ertain regulations respecting courtship and marriage; as also the purideation of women at certain periods, which arc too minutely detailed to he repeated. The (ueat Spirit also directs them all to bathe at certain periods to wash away their sins, upon the observ- ance of which regulations they are to be par- doned four times for the same ollence; but the fifth time, says the Great Spirit, " ij on shall fsurehj die."'] " My Children, you never ought to strike your wives with hand or foot : If they misbehave have pity on them ; but in case of a necessary correction, only make use of a sxcitch, or else you ■will be deprived in the other world of such a partof M)ur body ai might have touched them. to rot, m dis- ack to again, in arc I are to many, ot live ^ss they «e even ►n vNcrp at they ipcctiiig ill cat ion arc too e ( I real certain observ- l)e par- hut the /// aiirelij A KEMAHKABLB SPEECH. 401 *' Affj Children, your >visemen (or conjurors) have bad medicine in their bags. They must throw awhy tlicir medicine bags^ and when the medicine is in blossom, collect it fresh and pure. You must make uo feasts to the evil spirits of tlie <>arth, but only to the good spirits of the air. You are no itiorc to dance the wabano nor tht paigon or pipe dance. I did not put you on the earth to dance those dances, but you are to dance naked, with your bodies painted, and with the piogamaugum {war club) in your hands. You must all have this weapon, and never leave it be- hind you. When you dance thus^ I shall always look on you with pleasure. You arc to make yourselves paca touanacs (crosses) which you must always carry with you, and amuse your- selves often \*'ith that game.* Your women must also have handsome passu qiianaksf that they may also play ; for I made you to be happy, and I am delighted when I see you so. You are however, never to go to war against each other, but to cultivate peace between your diflferent tribes, that they may become one great people. ' m" 1 ,(V, ' t 'i» ■s » " H . 'A* |L r • •* la r 1' ' ike your isbehave lecessary else you ' such a them. * A kind of bat-ball or racquet game, common among the savages, which requires great agility, and is the same as was played by them when old Mackinak was taken by stratagem and destroyed, in 1/63. fTwo little balls lied together by a thong of six inches ia ength ; they are thrown with a stick, and aftprd an, amusing game for the Indian women, VOL. 1. 2d ill ' ■: 402 A RtMARK ART-E «UEr:crr. '^ AIji ClfiJdren, no Indian must ever sell vuni to Indian!?. It makes him rich ; hut when Ire (lies lie hfcomcs very wretched. You bury him v.'i;wam furuislied with every tiling they hud on enrth." [Thus far the Great S[)irit.J ''Now, my Children," said ihe first created man, " listen to what I am about to add. The Great Spirit then opened a door, shewing me a bear and a deer, both very small and very lean, and »aid : ' Look here mv son ! tliese are the animals that are now on i\\c earth; tlie red people have spoiled them by killinc; them too vounj?- and £.iviua' thicir meat to tlie whites, and also bv fc- ' K.J . srrcasinpj themselves with their fat which is verv wrong*. 1 lie VvOHien mIici) tliej gTcasc their bodies, or their hair, ^liould do it oidy with tlic Lit of the smaller animals, a^ racoons, sr.akcs, &c." The Giciit Spirit then opened another door, and sliewed me a bear and a deer extremely Ait, and of a verv extraordinarv size., pavino;: ' Look here utitmaa A REMARKABLE SPEECH. 4U3 [?11 rum '\\vn Ire iry liini lit bim, ad, iliey up, and linost af 11 to dust r furni'h tluw dio I Innd of bed witli atcd man, he Great le a bear ean, and je animals ople bavo uns;, Jind i uIh.) by )i is very uisc tiicii' \Niib lli(^ door, and ly fat, y.nd Look here* 'ny son ! those are the aniaiol* I placed on earth when I created you.' " Now, my Children, listen to wliat I say, and let it sink into your ears. Tt is tJic orders of the Great Spirit. '' Mij Children, yoii must not speak of this talk ff) ihc whites. It must be hidden from t}>eui. I am now on the earthy sent by tlu? Groat 1^'pirit (o instruct vou. E;icb villaoe must send tviC two or more principal chiefs to represent j/ou* ih?A you may be taught. The bearer of this talk ^\ill point out to you (he path to my wii^waiTi, I could not come myself to Arbre Croc// Cjf because the world is chane;cd from what it was; it is broken, and leans down ; and as it declines, the Chippewas and all beyond, will fall off atid die; therefore you must come and see me^ and be in- structed, in order to prevent it. Those villages which do not listen to this talk, and send me two deputies, will be cut off from the face of the earth." * Application was made to the villages in Lower Canada ; but by the interference of the gove 'meiit agents, they refused to send delegates to the general meeting. t A village ten miles in length, lying on Lake IVLchigan, at tha di&t%)ce of nine miles from Michilimackiaack, Ik '* 1- fi 2 d2 4i '< I f. I ill f If 11 404 FACE OF LOTfEfl CANAIA, CHAP. XIX. Face of Lower Camidci'-^Mountain of Quehec-^ Black Lime Slate — Minerals^-'Mineral Springs ■ — Rock Statics — Remarkable Earth-quake of liyiVS'^Particulars translated from the French Jesuits' Journal-^ Dreadful Night — Sick- ?iess and Giddiness of the Head — Wreck of .Xature'^-Forests overturned"^ Springs chok- ed up — Rivers Lost-^Violent Shocks^^Moxm- tains Swallowed up — General Devastation^^ New Lakes and Islands^-^Three extraordinary Circumstances — Wonderful Preservation — Ex- traordinary Protection of Divine Providence-"" Natural Curiosities — Falls of Saguenai/ — Mont- morenctj and Chaudiere — An Excursion up the River-"' Thro ugh the Woods — Melancholy Acci- dent — Anecdote of two Young Ladies^"" Arrival at the Falls of Chaudiere — The Cataract — Return to Qnebec-r-Rapids of RichUeu^^-Cas* cades"^Rapid8 of the Cedars,. Thet face of Lower Canada is remarkably boI4 and striking. The noble river St. Lawrence,, flowing more than 400 miles between high land^ and lofty (aountains> sometimes divided into chan^ I Sprtn§,s quake of he French t — Sick- Wreck of ngs clwk- ■-^Moun- .istation-"- aordinav^ ion — Ex- mdence-— y — MonU Ion up the holy Acci- ~-^ Arrival 'ataract — - ieU'^Cas' Ikablybold awrence,. ligh land? into chan- MOUNTAIN OF QUCBEf . 406 ocls by large islands^ and at otlirr times inter- sected by clusters of small ones. Numerous rapid streams, rolling from tlie neiglibouring mountains, breaking over &ivv\^ precipices,, and mingling 'heir waters with the grand river. Its bold and rugged shores ; lofty emIneurL.s, and sloping valleys, covered with the uinbrageous foliage of immense forests, or intfM'spersed with the culti- vated settlements of the inhabitant's, present alto- gether to the eye of the spectator, a succes>;ion of the most sublime and pirturesque objects that imagination can conceive. Beyond the Rapids of Richlicu, which are si- tuated abo''t 400 miles from the entrance of the St. Lawrence, the country assumes a more level aspect : the mountains retire to the north and iBouth as far as the eye can reach, leaving all that part of Canada, extending to the south-wegt and north-east^ an almost interminable flat. Frozen oceans, gulfs, and bays ; immense lakes and wil- dernesses, diversified at times by chains of enor- mous mountains, form the features of the re- maining part of the BU'itish settlements in North America, which extend from the coast of Labra- dor to the sea of Kamtschatka and the Paci^ Ocean ; and to the northward, beyond the Arctic Circle. The mountain on which Quebcp is built, and ihe high lands for several miles along the St. I^twrence^ consist chiefly of black lime slate> A ..yf'H «&> ^. ^^■'i' 40(i BLACK T.IME FL.iTi:. m n I'y i 'K'ii iig few mountains in tlic npjcjiiliourliootl aro vnm- posed oTj^rey rock stone ; hut tiny, for the most partj stand on a bed of lime slate. About a yard from tlie surface^tbis slate is quite compact, and without any cracks, so that one cannot perceive it is a slate, its particles being imperceptible^. 1 1 lies in strata which vary, from thret; or four to Iwcniy inches thick, and upwards. In Queliec the »\i\\\- cationSj and many of llie private ho-; .\s hehni^^-;- iiij^ to the j;'entry at Qnebei*, have o! laie ycari been built \vii.h ihe ^ivy voiL :-(oi;e, Nv';i( h has ;i h,i»,htand handyjomc appeaiaiice, and i.'^ v/l a iiiore dnrabb.' nature. '^I'he mountain"^ aUvl In.^-h Uiiif'r, in Cue \irlp.lly oj' Quebec, and for niaiiy iiiiivs ijelow, eonrsist of diherent species of the limi^ yhile, and of the ^rcy rock or iimc stone, more or less im^u'egiiated willi gTcy and black glimmer and (juart/ ; hbrous gypsum and picrre an calumet. 'VUc latier lias rece.' ed its name from the Imcim b, Avho, :i,s v. ell a.s the Indians, frequently ui-e it l'.);- Ihe lieads of their calum/ts or tobacco pipes. It is a liuie- 'ione of rather a Boi<, tlioisL^h col. [nict tcxtur:^, and may bo cut vvi«h a knife. iron, copper, and lead ore, are fnund in dif- fident parts of Lower Canad;:, tln)iir.';h liof to Jiny \ery great e.\tent. Iroji is n.osi. {.linidar^f, and has been discovered chjifly ow the no.lli side of the St. Lawrence, about '''atisran and Three ili vers. It was {brmeiiy iKMitvcd thai a silver mine existed near St. Paid's Bay, ab;/'ut54 milcb below Quebec, on the uoith sLorc, several Sli'., h*^' ill 408 MIHEltAL SPRINGS. J'Y '! 1 1 n w ta pieces of ore having: been discovered, N^liich re semblcd that metal : it has since been found to consist only of lead, w|iich lies in veins in a moun- tain of gTey rock stone. No very important di''>coveries have hitherto been made in the mineral world of Lov\er Ca^ nada ; though in that, as well as in every other branch of natural history, there is sufficient, in that country, to occupy the attention of the philo- sopher. Some mineral springs have been disco- vered in different parts of the province : one or two were found in the neighbourhood of Three Rivers, but are now either lost or remain unno- ticed. Another wa§ discovered in the suburb of St. John, just without the walls of Quebec ; thii: has been kept open for several years, and belong? to an old French woman, who has a small house adjoining it. Many of the gentry, I under- stand, walk out to this house in the summer about six o'clock in the morning, and drink the waters, which are reckoned extremely salubrious ; they are tasteless, but it is necessary to hold your nose when you drink them, for ihpy have a very un- pleasant sulphureous smell. SeveraJ excellent springs of fresh water gush out of various parts of the rock. The inhabitants, howeyer, chiefly use tlif river water, ttiough it is not reckoned very wholesome in winter. I do not recollect seeing a pump at Quebec^ nor of hearing that there is ^ne ii^ the town; yet ■MWi inch re- found to a iiioun liitherlo )wcr Car f»ry oilier icieni, iii ,hepliilo- dii (lisco- : one or of Three iin iinno- luburb of [)ec ; thii: d belongs lall house I under- ner about le waters, us ; they your nose very un- ater gush labitants, , tliough winter, sbec, nor wn; yet l!» V\ HOCK STONES. 40J> .wells might be easily dui^ in the rock, and water might he obtained iu many phiees for the use of IIm? people, where it now runs to waste. The water is conveyed in barrels froui the river io ali parts of the Upper and Lower towns, by the tar. ters, who charge sixpence or cightpence per barrel according to the distance. In dift'erent parts of the country, and particu- larly the vicinity of Quebec, are to be found rock-stones of various shapes and sizes, lying scattered in the fields, meadows, and plains. Some of them measure niu'' or ten i'cct in circum ; ference, and from tliree to four feet high ; but I have met with manv considerably larger. They are mostly of a grey colour, round shaped, and of a very close and bawl substance, impregnated with blacky red, and white glinnner and spar. They lie upon the soil, having no connexion with any rock or bed of stone ; and a persop ipannot view them without asking himself tli/j quesUon, how, and in what manner, siich larg^ passes of stone canae there ? If the Turks had ever been in Canada, I should have suspected, that they h^,ii discharged them out of their mor- tars ' It was upon one of these stones that General Wolfe is said to have breathed his last. The earthquake of 1663 was one of the most remarkable phenomena that has happened in North America, or perhaps any part of the globe within the memory of man. It continued ^3i i^; ifi^ij .; iipwaiils of six iiJoiHlis, with moro or loss vlu- Icncr, (hiiin/v ^vl^i(•ll j'criod it ovcrfiiriu'd a chain of five-sloiK! moiiiU.iins in (fppcr Caiiadii, oC more than jli 10 luiU's in l('iiij:* been a volcano Its summit is covered wilh seven or eiivl^t incliei of mossy substance, under which arc st(Mies con- sislins^ principally of j^ranlle, impregnated wilh iron ore, nnd blackened by the ellecls of fire. The stones wl;ich are most burnt do not lie at the summit, but at. a cerlain depib, and there arises a warm vapour from llic spot, sudlcient lo melt the ?now as it falls. It is sin<;'uhir tijat no crater has been hillserto discovered, thouii;h, from the appearance of the stones, there is nodoui;! of one having* formerly existed ; it was, most prob'i- bly, filled up or totally destroyed by theearthquake, As the particulars of that remarkable event are little known, and have never yet, I believe, been published in the English language, I have made a translation from the journal of the Frencb Jesuiits ss vk;- I cliuiii (hi, {)[' lied if sod sc- ud Ihr I miles oat ex- ile;!, or 'd IVniii risers, 'J\> the , wh'uh 'oleaiio t inches les con- ed wilii of Hre. t lie al I'd there icient io that lii) !,'Ii, from ouui of t prol):i- liquaivc, ^cnt are e, been made a I Jesiuts RCMAItKABLE EAKTHQUAKE OF H)()3. 411 of Quebec, an extract of wliicli I procured in that city. Tlio account was written soon after tlic earthquake had ceased^ and is remarkable for the antiquity of its hmguage and orthography. The eirects of that unprecedented event are described in rather glowing colours, as might naturally be cxpecti d from the people who wit- nessed thcm^ and whose imaginations were yet lieated with such dreadful scenes, and the alarm- ing sensations ihc.y must have produced. But, there does not appear to be any exaggeration of the facts^ whicli are strongly corroborated by the appearance of the mountains and rivers at the present day. EARTHQUAKE OF 1663. ' It was on the 5th of February, 1663, about half past five o'clock in the evening, that a great rushing noise was heard throughout the whole extent of Canada. This noise caused the people to run out of their houses into the streets, as if their habitationg had bdien on fire; but instead of flames and smoke, they were surprized to see the walls reeling backwards and forwards, and the stones moving as if they had been detached from each other. The bells rang of their own ac- cord. The roofs of the buildings bent down, first on one side, and then on the other. The tim- bers, rafters, and planks cracked. The earth trembled violently, and caused the stakes of the palisades and palings to dance^ in a manner that VOL. I. ¥t ^ m il tl^'l j! '/!••■ 412 DREADFUL NIGHT. would hare been incredible, had we not acluall^ seen it in .several places. ' At that moment it was, that every one ran out of doors. Then were to be seen, animals fl)'ing in all directions; children crying and screaming in the streets ; men and women seized with affright, stood horror-struck with the dread- ful scene before them, unable to move, and ig^- norant where to fly for refuge from the tot- tering walls and trembling earth, which threat* ened, every instant, to crush them to death, or sink them into a profound and immeasurable abyss. Some threw themselves on their knees, in the snow« crossing their breasts, and calling upon their saints to relieve them from the dangers with which they were surrounded. Others passed the rest of this dreadful night in prayers, for the earth- quake ceased not^ but continued, at short inter- vals^ with a certain undulating impulse, resem- bling the waves of the ocean; and the same qualmish sensation^ or sickness at the stomacb> was felt during the shocks, as is experienced in a vessel at sea. ' The violence of the earthquake was greatest in the forests, where it appeared as if there was a battle raging between the trees; for not only their branches were destroyed, but even their trunks are said to have been detached from their places, aud dashed against each other with inconceivable i N^anCK OF NXTUkfi. 413 i)l< indconfuaii that tho Ti lence and contuaioii ; so niucli a dians, in their figurative manner of speaking, declared that all the forests were drunk. * The war, also, seemed to be carried on between the mountains ; some of which were torn from their beds, and thrown upon (others, leaving im- mense chasms in the places from whence they had issued, and the very trees with which thejr were covered, sunk down, leaving only their tops above the surface of the earth : others v«ere com- pletely overturned, their branches buried in the earth, and the roots only remained above ground. ' During this general wreck of nature, the ice, upwards of six feet thick, was rent and thrown^ up in large pieces ; and from the openings in many parts, there issued thick clouds of smoke, or foun- tains of dirt and sand, which spouted up to a very considerable height. The springs were either choked up, or impregnated with sulphur* Many rivers were totally lost ; others were di- verted from their course, and their waters entirely corrupted. Some of them became ijellow, others red, and the great river of St. Lawrence appeared entirely whUej as far down as Tadoussac. Thii extraordinary phenomonon must astonish those who know the size of the river, and the immense body of water in various parts, which must have required such an abundance of matter to whiten it. } f.H »• LIN Vl'l. 4U TI01.FNT SJKKK^. HI ' Tlie'v Widii from Montreal, that during tlio cartiiquakc tiioy plainly smv llic stiikcs oi* tlir pitkflini;*, or pallaiul'H, jump up, as if fliov hart honi (laficii.r. That of two dorirs in the same room, oner o[>tMUMl and llic other shut of flicir o\>n accord. Tiiat the clunni'^vs, and tops of Uil'. \u)\i :•?; hcnf, like (he hr.melies of trees a:;italed by the v.itnl. That when tlu'V \Ncnt to walk, they fcli the earth foHowin^j; tlicm, and rising at every jitep they took ; sometimes strikin^i; a^^'ainit the sole of the foot and other thinjjs, in a verv forci bh^ and surpri/ini\* manner * From 'i Iiree JlivcMs liiey svriie ; t'lat thctirsi shock was the most violent, and commenced \\li\i 'A noise resembling thunder. The houses were agitated in the same manner as the tops of trees durinc; a tempest, witli a noiiic as if fire was crackling in the garrets. * The tir.si s'lock lasted half an hour, or ratlicr betfer, though its greatest force was pro- perly not moie than a quarter of an hour ; and, we believe tl;erc was not a single shock, which did not cause the cavtli to open more or less. As for the rest, wc have remarked, that though this earthquake ci)ii(inucd ahnort without intermis-" sion, yet it was not always of an equal violence. SoR.ellmrs it was like the pitchinn; ofa larjre \es- sel wl'ich draa'ired hcuvilv at her anchors : and it was this motion which occasioned many to have a giddiness in t'lfir heads, and qualmishness at their iiig itio of titr 10 V 1 1 art Ik; sauio ic'ir own i of i\iC. t;i 'niUEE EXTRAOnDINAUV CIRCUMSTANCFI ] ! -f'l iisfrrhiinrd. Such devastalion was also occa- pioDcd ill ihc woods, that more than a tliousand acrc5 in our neighbourhood were completely overturned ; and where, bui a short time before^ nothing; met tlie eve but nnc immense forest of trees, now \^ ere to be seen extensive cleared land;' appurenJly just tinned up by the plough. ' At Tndoussac (about 150 miles below Que- bec on the north shore) the effect of the earth- quake was not less violent than in other places ; and such a heavy shower of volcanic ashes fell in that neighbourhoodi particularly in the River St. Lawrence> that the waters were as vfolently agi- tated as during a tempest. * Near St. Paul's Bay (about 50 miles below Quebec on the north shore) a mountain about a quarter of a league in circumference, situated on the shore of the St. Lawrence, was precipitated into the river : but as if it had only made a plunge, it arose from the bottom, and became a small island, forming, with tin: shore, a conve- nient harbour well sheltered from all winds. Lower down the river, towards Point AUoiiettes. an entire forest of considerable extent, was loos- ened from the main land, and slid into the river St. Lawrence, where the treqs took fresh root in the water. * There are three circumstances, howerer, which have rendered this extraordinary earth-v qu^ke particularly remarkable Th^ ffrf^K i^M^^ (hi) Vu rviti not tow dori ocss towi rail' vi()!( ofti ^altl Icani Gas} St. I -New niote this c l(M)i>t 180,( the <■: ' ! most iiarv breji ^ It ihf.i rt'( (jiiake 1 VOL iNHBiia > occa- lousand ipletely befonv, orest of ;d land.^ w Quc- 5 earth - places ; ; fell ill liver St. itly agi- 3 below about a lated oil ^ipitated made a ecamc a L conve- 1 winda. oiiettcs,- 'as loos- he river root m lowever, y earth-v >VONDEin"HL PRESERVATION. 417 ilnvation, it hiivius; continued from kAibriiary to Vug'ust, (h;it is lo say^, move than six months almost vithout iritcnnission ! It is true, the sliocks were not !il\*iivs e([ii;dly violent. In several places, as lowards the mountains bchiiul Quebec, the thun- (i(M'ini;' noise and tremblings motion continued suc- cessively for a considerable time. In others, as towards Tadoussae tiie sliocks continued gene- rally for two or three days at a time with much violence. ' The second circumstance relates to the extent of this c;irth(jnake, which we believe was univer- sal Ui;"hont the whole of New France, for we learn, tliat it was telt from L'Isle Percee and (laspe which are situated at the mouth of tiie St. Lawrence, to beyond Montreal,* as also in New England, Acadia, and other places more re- mote. As far as it has come to our knowledge, this earthquake extended more than 60t) miles in length and about oOO in breadth. Hence, 180,000 square miles of la. id were convulsed at the same dav, and at the same tnoment. 'The third circumstance (which appears the most remarkable of all) regiinls the extraordi- nary protection of Divou; Providence, which has been extended to us, and our habitations ; for we * It appears fioin this, that the Ji'^uiis at Quebec had not lht':i rec(M\ecl any act ouul ol' the devastation u hich the earth- quake had comii itted in U|pir Canada, and of course were un* ^(•(juiiinted with its real e • nt. VOL. I. 2 E water that the most igh and 80 icreascd or ' of watci o\\ stream In spring c snow. 01 FALLS OF CIIAUDIERE, 419 liuich rain, swells Ihe current, the fall is increased' and seen at t!io«c periods to great advanlai^''. In winter but a sm:ill portion of the fall is visible, m consequence of the cones of ice which are formed by the rising spray, and intercept the view, nearly lialf way up. The river Montmorency falls between a large cleft in the mountain, which appears to have been formed by the sliock of an earthquake. The waters thus precipitate themselves into a kind of basin, upwards of oOO yards wide, many parts of which arc fordable towards the entrance at low water ; but under the fall there is an immense chasm. The mountain consists of the black lime slate, which as it becomes exposed to the air con- tinually moulders away. Near the summit of the falls, the banks of the cleft are ornamented with a variety of tlirubs, fir-trees, and other evergreens, whose dark foliage form an agreeable contrast to the snowy whiteness of the fall, and i>ive to the tout ensemble a pleasing a!id romantic appearance. The fall of Montmorency has, however, more of the elegant and beautiful in it, than of the " awfully grand, or wonderfully sub- lime ! " While I remained at Quebec, I took the op- portunity of visiting tire falls of CiiaudierCj which in my opinion are far superior to that of Montmorency, They are situated about nine «ules above Quebec on the opposite share, and -^ £ .i ? ^m a ':' ■ < 5 ,, \ - • lit' ' H nl' !• ■'' I if"' J J' Is ' «;> >: It 1^1 4^20 EXCURSION UP THE IllVEK alioiii iliiTc or four miles back from the river St. Lawrence, into >vhicli the river Chaudiere dis- eniboij^ues itself. The excursion to Chaudiere ^vas accompanied with nujch more dilfieiiUy than that to Montmorency, beinc; obliged to penetrate upwards of five miles through a thick wood, in wl'.ich the path was not discernible without a guide. Accompanied by Mr. Ilawdon, the present, storekeeper-general of the Indian department, and Lieutenant Burke of the 100th regiment, J left Quebec one iine morning in the month ol August, 1807, in a birch canoe, conducted by two Indians from the opposite camp. We had applied to our friend ^' chief for his services, but be being busily engaged in the camp, he re- commended two young Indians of the Mickmack tribe, who were brothers, as very steady sober characters : we hired them, and had no reason to repent it, for they behaved extremely well, and during the whole day would drink nothing bnl water. The eldest, who was not more than 25, declared his abhorrence of all spirituous licpiors. and assured us, that neither he nor his brother ever accustomed themselves to take any. l>y this I perceived they hiid adopted the excellent example of their chief; and I mention this trait in the Indi'\n character as a very great novelty : so extremely rare is it to meet with any who do not give themselves up to inebriation. The i river St. iliere dis- ^haudiore diiricuUv blig'od to i;li a thick isccniibh; prrsmit. jpartuieiit, jgimcnt, i month oi ducted l)y We hiid is services, up, he rc- Mickmack cady sober o reason to vvellj and lothing but re than '2.j, )us liquors, his brother any. Wy e excellent II this trait at novelty ; my who do ion. Thf. rXCURSION THROUGH THE WOODS. 421 eldest Indian spoke English remarkably well, lie resided, he said, near St. John's in New I'runswick, and passed the greatest part of his time in that town. He seemed to be possessed ol' as much modesty as sobriety ; for our friend Burke, having joked him rather freely abont Iving in tlic same tent with the young squaws, he became very serious, and told him that it was not good to talk of such things. The man- ner in which we sat in the canoe was curious i'lough to an European, accustomed to boats with good seats in them. The youngest In- dian knelt, jdown at the head of the canoe, and j)addled either on the right or left, as the current required. Mr. ilawdon sai next at the bottom, with his legs extended. I sat as close to him as possible, with my legs on each side of him. And Lieutenant Burke behind me, with his legs extended on my sides. The other Indian knelt down in the stern of the canoe, and, with his paddle, steered, or impelled it forward. Having arrived at a small bay, into which the river Chaudiere empties itself, and mingles its waters with those of the St. Lawrence, we disem- barked, hauled the canoe upon the beach, and proceeded up a steep cliff, that led to the house of the guide, which was situated about a nule in the wood. This part of the country is but thinly settled by the Canadians ; and from the *: L h ■;.«• 425 MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT. if: i;> fhl lA ■IJ'i rough state of tlu;ir farms^ and i'le half-cleareci lands adjoinin<^, it has a wild romaiiiic appear- ance. We found the sjuide at home, and folk)vved by our two Indians, who were also drsiious of seeing the falls, we enteicd a ^ery nariow pulli in a thick wood, composed of almost cvciy species and variety of trees and shrubs. Tlio season of the year was well adapted for our excursion, as the musquito, sand-ilies, and o(iu i disagreeable insects, had all disappeared ; tlio cold mornings and evenings having paralyzed their limbs, and driven them into their retreals, The plums, blackberries, raspberries, and other wild fruit, though nearly on tlie decline, were yet in considerable abundance, and often tempted some of our party to stop and gather them. Fortunately, none of us ever lost siglit of our guide, or the consequences might have been fatal. A melancholy instance of this occurred a few years ago, in which the captain of a ship, who had accompanied a party to see the falls, was lost in the woods on their return home, and perished ! It is supposed that he had stopped behind to gather fruit, by which means he had lost sight of the rest of the comp.'iny, who had gone on before with the g'.i de. As soon as they missc >i him, they shouted and hollo ed as !ou(^ as they couldj but to no purpose ; they thc^ If-cleareu • appear- low ed b}' '.^iroiis of 'I'uv.' pafii osi cvciy lbs. The ("or our and odior irc.d ; liiL' paraljzni r refreajs. and oilier inc, were n tempted her them, it of our lave been red a few ship^ who fallsj was )me, and d stopped is he had who had n as they 1 as loud iiej thc'i ANECDOTE OF TWO VOUNG LADIES. 455 furncd bark a considerable way, but could neither sec nor hear any tiling of him. The next day, parties of Indians were dispatched in all directions, but they returned with as little suc- cess ; and it was not till some montbs after- wards, that his skeleton was found, bv wliich it appeared he had wandered a mile or two from the right path, which is so extremely narrow as to admit only one person to walk along at a time, and therefore easily missed. It is a dcViJS'erous experiment to wander carelessly in (he woods in Canada, witliout a guide, or a suificicnt acquaintance with the paths ; and instances have occurred, of people perishing even within a small distance of their own habitations. A few vears ajio, two young ladies who were on a visit at the house of Mr. Nicholas Montour, formerly of the North-west Company, and who then resided at Point du Lac, near Three Risers, strolled into the woods at the back of the house, one morning after breakfast, for the purpose of re- galing themselves with the strawhciries and oilier fruit which grew abundantly there, and wore then in great peifection. One of them had aii amusing novel in her hand, which she rend to the other; and so interested were they with the story, and the scenery around them, that tliey never thought of returning to dinner. In this ^D^nner they strolled delightfully along, some' Vii: 'J-'i% 4^24 ANECDOTE or T^TO YOUNG LADIKS. times wrapt up in the charms of tlie novel, and at other times stopping; to j^ather the fruit vvhicli lay luxuriantly scattered beneath their feet, or Iiung in clusters over their heads; when the dc- tlining sun at length warned them that it was late in the afternoon. They now began to think of returning, but unfortunately they had wan- dered from the path, and knew not which way to go. The sun, which an hour before might have afforded them some assistance, was now obscured by the lofty trees of the forest; and as the evening closed in, they found themselves yet more bewildered. In the most distracted state they wandered about among the shrubs and underwood of the forest, wringing their hands, and crying most bitterly at their melancholy situation. Their clothes were nearly torn ofl' their backs ; their hair hung in a dishevelled manner upon their necks ; and the fruit which in the morning they had picked with rapture, they now loathed and detested. In this wretched condition they wan- dered till nearly dark, when they came up to a small hut ; their hearts beat high at the sight ; but it was empty ! They were, however, glad to take refuge in it for the night, to shelter them from the heavy dews of the forest, which were then rising. They collected a quantity of leaves, with which they made a bed, and lay down : but they could not sleep ; and spent the niaht vi el, and t which fcrt, 01- Ihc (Ic- it was to think d wan- ich way 3 might as now a!ul as jlves yet andered I of the ig most Their their on their ? they led and ;y wan- ip to a sight ; glad to er them ch were r leaves^ down : liaht in A\ECT)OTi:01' TWO \()l'\G LADlEl'-. 42: unavailing tears and rcj)roaclics at their own carelessness. They howi^ver at times endea- voured to eonsole eaeli other with Ihe hope that people would he dispatehed hy !Mr. iNlontoiir, in search of them. The next inoniin--, there- fore, they wisely kept within the hut, or went vui only to gather fruit to sili^fy the cravings of appetite ; and tliat which the ev<'nii!g l)er()i'e they had loatlied as the cause of tlicir misf*)!- tune, now heca\ne the means of ])reserving tiieir lives. Towards the close of the day, they heard the Indian yell in tiie woods, but were afiaid to call out, or stir from the hut, not knowing whe- ther they might be sent in search of them, or were a party of strange Indians, into whose hands they did not like to trust themselves. A second night was pa-^sed in the same turlorn state ; though singular as it may appear, one of them became more composed, and, in some mea- sure, even reconciled to her situation; whicli, deplorahle as it was, and uncerl;iiii when they might be relieved from it, she regarded as a romantic adventure, and the following njorning, with great composure, staid in the hut, and read her novel: the other, however, gave herself up to despair, and sat upon the bed of leaves, crying and bewailing her unhappy fate. In this state they were discovered about noon, by a party of Indians^ who had ben sent out aficr (hem, and whose yell had been heard by the young ladies m^' i M' Mt i;i ; (If I il P^ ,j 42(1 AKUIVAL AT Tilk fAILS OV CHAllRIERf:. tlio p receding; cvciiiiio:. l'!icii- joy at bcinr relieved IVoiii «,Meli an alannin.';- sitMutioiij 111113 ^^ more casil; r^meeived lliuii described, and \va» only cqua'Ied hy tMc pleasure wliieli their return ^ave to Mr. Moulour and liis f.ituily, who had almost i?;iveii tluiu tsp us lost, havinp; hcen absent nearly tiirte days, and \Yauden:d several miles from the house. To return to our excuriiiou; we proeeedcd - throui;:h the forest, as fast as the small shrubs a^d brushwood, which obstructed tlic path, wouhj permit ; and I oflen got some severe cuts in mv face, w ith the boughs, that sprun;]; back, as those before nic pushed them abide, Soiiielirnes vihen I tho!?^ht I was steppiiig; upon the substantial ir\ii\k of a large tree, that had fallen across the path^ I have sunk knee deep in dust and rotten wood ; at other times 1 was over uiy boots in a swamp, or a rivulet, which we were often obliged to wade thious twid 1, would ts in mv as thoac les v*'hen ibstaiitiid cross the d rotten )ot'i in a re often 1 after a 1 at the ;paid me dry, and ual ; but the falls, to more ments of were en- TIIC CATAUACT Or CIIAUDIEUF.. '\T ing from a thick wood, ar.d «;raduan}' ex? aiuling from au almost imperceptible stream, lill if readies (lie cataract, \»!i()se breadth is upwards of .)()() feet. Here th{3 disordired masses of reek, v, inc'i apjuar to have been rrnt from their b(;d by some \iolent coiivulsioi) uf • iture, break tlie course of the waters, :iiul preci;)itate them, from ii Ik i^ht of I'^O feci, into an immense chasm below. In some paiis lar^e sheets of water roll over the prccinice,and fall unbroken to the bottom ; while in other places the water dashes from one frag- ment of the rock to another, with wild im»?ctu- osity, hello v.iiig and foamini:;; with y:\'^c in every hollow and cavity that obstructs its progress: from thence it rusbes down with the rapidity of lightning' into the boiling surge beneath, where it rages with inconceivable fury, till driven from the gulf by fresh columns, it hurries away, and loses itself in the waters of the St. Lawrence. The cataract of Chaudicre may be truly said to form a complete whole. The scenery which accompanies it, is beautiful and romantic beyond description. In the centre a large fragment of rock, which first divides the water, at the summit of the precipice, forms a sort of small island ; and a handsome fir-tree which grows upon it, is thus placed in a most singular and picturesque situation. The forest on either side the rivcrj consists of firs^ pines, birch^ oak. l^ ! m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 L^IM |2.5 |jo ^^ !»■■ 1^ U& 12.2 •^IIIM m U IIIIII.6 us u I. ,. 5^ 71 > '"^jf O /a >> / //a PhoiDgraphic Sciences Corporation iV \ SJ rf 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 I I' ■i i li •I ^,1 KS f! I I 4'4S RETURN TO QUEP.EC. ash, arul a variety of oilier liees and slirubs, intermingled in tlic most wild and romantic manner. Their dark ji^reen foiiac^e, joined with the brown and sombre tint of the rocky frag- ments over which the water precipitates itself, form a striking and pleasing contrast to the snowy whiteness of ihe foaming surge, and the <(»linnns of sparkling spray which rise in clouds and mingle with the air. The gratification on viewing this beautiful cataract, is considerably enhanced by the jour- ney which the spectator is obliged to take llirough a wild and gloomy forest ; the toil of which is amply repaid, when he emerges all at once from Cimmerian darkness into an ex- pansive view of the falls, and the light of hea- ven. It appears like a sudden enchantment^ and the imagination is lost in the variety and grandeur of the scene. I could have contem- [jjated it for hours ; but our time was short, and Ave wished to return to Quebec before dark. I quitted this beautiful and romantic spot, with the greatest reluctance ; regretting, that in all probability I should never see it again. We returned back with our guide; and hav- ing launched the canoe, we embarked for Que- bec, where we arrived about nine o'clock, it being then nearly dark. We gave the Indians a couple of dollars for their trouble, for which they very civilly thanked us, and we parted, well pleased with our day's excursion. -i-ta-z:? ' ..F' IIAPIDS OF KICHLIEU. 4:iD Tiiejo arc some smaller cataracts in other [VAvti of Lower Canada, but tlicy do not merit any particular description. I regretted that no opportunity olfered, while I remained in Ame- rica, of visiting- the celebrated Falls of Nia- gara. Could I have staid in Canada last win- ter, my friend Hawdon promised to tiike me there in his cariole ; it wonld have been a jour- ney of more than two hundred miles from Montreal, but the winter season is admirably adapted for expeditious travelling. The rapids of Richlieu are situated about forty- five miles fron; Quebec in the river St. Lawrence, and nearly half-way between that city and the town of Three Rivers. They are formed by a great number of sunken rocks, and shallows, quite across the river, and two or three miles in length : at low water many of them are visible. The rapidity of the cur- rent which always sets downwards at this place, is said to be at the rate of twelve or fifteen miles an hour. There is sufficient depth of water for the largest men of war ; but vessels can only stem the current in strong easterly winds. The tide flows up to these rapids, and rises nearly fifty miles above them, beyond the town of Three Rivers, notwithstanding the current always runs down as far as the Rich- lieu, i'( * ■' ■■I 450 RAPIDS AND CASCADES?. '!t ■ J'l' i!i There arc two smaller rapids near Montreal one al)Out a mile and lialf below MM\LS. CHAP. XX, Canadian Animals — . Incrdotcof a Yonnp,\Man. — Animals of the r\))-csl — iniphihioufi Animals — Canadian Have — Birds — Tnvkcij — Partrid^j^c FisJi — Rcplilcs — Sna/ics — Hull Prop: — Lxccl- lent Fricascc of a Rnli I'roc,-^ Lizards — Tcrrc- bin s — /;/ sects — IjOcu .sY.s— Extraordin a n/ De- vastation — Musqnitoes—Jiees — The Ephemera, or Daij Fhj — Fite Fiji — Fliosphorons Light tvliicJi it emits )-esenihles distant Stars, or Sparks of Fire — Delicate Formation — Noxious Iw^ects. Till: forests of (lie 5]ri(isli scUlcmcnls in North America abound with a \arlt'ty of animals ; ilioujih in the neiirhboiirlioou ol ihr, sctlk'iiienis of Upper and Lower Canada, the huii-er^ and nio;e fin'nuddble. snecicft, arc sckioni or never seen. The hniiters have driven them into the remotest parts of the interior. The animals of the ox kind are, the buifalo, nnisk bull, and bison. The akin of the formc" is used by the Canadians for a wintu' covering", \vhich they denominate n robe. Of tlie (ieor kind are the great stag, or round horned elk, the black and grey moose^ the caribou yr reiu deer, the stag, A llIlilTIA MUSTER. 433 Vaue there ! come gentlemen, parade here! pa- rade here !' says he, ' and all you that hasn't guns, full into the lower eend,' He might have hawled lill this tinio^ with as little success as the Syrcijs sung to Ulysses, had he not changed his post to a neighbouring shade ; there he was im- mediately joined by all who were then at leisure, the others were at that time engaged either as parties or spectators at a game of (ivcs^ and could not just then attend; however, in less than /^ a//" an hour, the game was finished, and the captain was tnablfd to form his company, and proceed in tlie duties of the dav. " Look to the ri^lit and dress !" They were soon, by the help of thfe non-com- missioned officers., placed in a straight line ; but as » very man was anxioUs to see how the rest stood, those on the wings pressed forward for that pur- pose, till the whole line assumed nearly the forni of a crescent. " IVhezv ! look at 'em; says the captain, why gcmtiemcn you are all crooking here at both etiids, so that you will get on to me by and bye, come, gentlemen, dress ! dress !" This Was accordingly done ; but impelled by the same motive as before, they soOn resumed their former figure, and so they were permitted to remain. '*^Now gentlemen," says the captain, ''I am going to carry you through the reiolutiojis of the VOL. II. F F m '^WH < ■ i, "1 .1 , 434 A >:ILITIA MUSTEB. manual exercise, and I want you, j^cntlemen, i^ you picapo, to pay every particular attention to the word of eoniinand, just exactly as I give it out to you. I hope you will havo a little pa- tience, gentlemen, if you please, and 111 he as short as possihle; and if I sliould he a-going wrong, I will he much ohliged to any of you gentlemen to put me right again-, for I mean all for the best, and I hope you will excuse me if you please. And one thing, gentlemen, I must cau- tion you against, in particular^ and that is this, not to make any mistakes if you can possibly help it, and the best way to do this, will be to do all the motions rii^ht at h'rst, and that will help us to get along so much the faster, and I will try to have it over as soon as possible. Come, boys., come to a shoulder. '' Fmse, fooi/i .' '* Cock, foul k ! — Very handsomely donsj. " Take, aim! '' Ram down cartridge] — No! No! Fire. I recollect now,, that firing comes next after taking aim, according to Steuben; but with your per- mission gentlemen, I'll read the words of com- mand just exactly as they are printed in the book, and then I shall be sure to be right. ' O yes ! read it. Captain, read it,' exclaimed twenty voices at once, ' that will save time.' ''*Tention the whole then : please to observe, gen- tliraen, that at the word ^7^iJ •' vou raiist fire; that A MILITIA MUSTER. 43i is, if any of your guns iwcloackii'd, you must not ahooi xw year nc fit, \)\xi only make pretence like ; and all you g'o:jtlemeii fellow-soldiers, who's armed >vith nothing hut sticks, and riding swikhes^ and corn stalks, needn't go through the Hiings, hut stand as you are, and keep yourselves to your- selves. *' Half cock fo oik ! — Very well done. " S, hj u, t, (spelling) chct i)an ! — That too would have heen very handsomely done, if vuu hadn't have handled cartridge instead ; hut I sup- pose you wasn't noticing. Now, 't Hilton one and all gentlemeti, and do that motion again. *' Shet pan ! — Very good, very well indeed, you did that motion equal to any old soldiers; you ini' prove astonishingly. " Handle cartridge- — Pretty well considering you done it wrong a//r/ foremost, as if you took the cartridge out of your mouth, and bit olF tho twist with the cartridge box. "Draw, rammer I — Those vvhohave no rau> irs to their guns need not draw, hut only make ue V motion ; it will do just as well, and save a great deal of time. ''Return rammer! — Very well agaii.— But that would have been done, I think, with greater ex- p.'rtness, if you had performed the motion with a little more dexterity. " Shoulder fo oik I — Very handsomely done, in- deed, if you hiwi only brought the /c>cJA to the . F F 2 43G % »JILITIA MUSTER. '( ^;1 other shoulder, gentlemen. Do thai moticm Again, gentlemen, and bring the foolk up to the left shoulder. *' Shoulder fooik I — Very good. *' Order foolk ! — Not quite so well, gentlemen; nDt quite altogether : but perhaps I did not speak loud enough for yon to hear me all at once ; try once more if yon please; I hope you will be paticHt, gentlemen, we will soon be through. "Order foolk ' — Handsomely done, gentlemen ! Tcry handsomely done ! and altogether too, except that a few of you were a ketle too soon, and some others a leetlc too late. " In laying down your guns, gentlemen, take care to lay the locks up, and the other sides down. '' 'Tention the whole ! Ground foolk I — Very well. " Char^Cyhngonet ! ( ^onie of the men)— ''Tlmt can't be right Captain, pray look again, for how «an we charge bagonet without our guns ?* *'( Captain) I don't know as to that, but I know I'm right, for liere it i» printed in the book c, h, a, r, yes, charge bagonet, that^s right, that's the word, if I know how to read ; come, gentle- men, do pray charge bagonet ! Charge I say ! Why don't you charge ? Do yoi> think it an't so ? Do you think I have lived to this time of day, and don't know what charge bagonet is ? Here, come here, you may see for yourselves ; it's as plain as the nose on your fa stop-— stay — no I A MILITI • MUSTER. 4:n — -Iialt ! no, no ! faith I'm wrong ! I'm wrong! I turned over two leaves nt owcf,but I bog your par- don, gentlemen, we will notstay out long ; and we*H liave somctlung to drink as soon as we've done. Come, boys, get up oflfthe stumps and logs, and take up your guns, and we'll sodn be done ; excuse me if you please. " Fix bagonct ! "Advance arms! — Very welldone,turn the stockg of your guns in front, gentlemen, and that wilL bring the barrels beliind; and hold them straight up and down if you please. Ijei go with your left hand, and take hold with your right just below the guard. Steuben says the gun must be held up p, e, r, pirticidar : yes you must always mind and hold your guns very perticular. Now boys, Mention the whole ! " Present anws?— Very handsomely done ! only hold your guns over the other knee, and the other band up, turn your guns round a Icetle, and raise them up higher, draw the other foot back 1 Now you are nearly right ; very well done, gentlemen ; you have improved vastly since I first saw you: you are getting too slick. 'What a charming thing it is, to see men under good discipline. Now, gentlemen, we are como to the revolutions : but Lord, men, how did you get into such a hig- glety-pigglety?" The fact was, the shade had moved considerably to the eastward^ and had exposed the right wing ■w i*« >i 4 i-**' Hi. 43R A MIMTIA MUSTFU. I (, \'S olllicse linidv ^rlcr;ins io u oMJJijio; liKMjfllio .siui ; l)cinj.v hut poorlv provided wilh uiMhiidlns .i< vas strenuously opposed by the soldiers. They objected to i;oini; into these revolutions at all, inasmuch as ihc weather was extremely hot, and they had already been kept in the field up- wards of three quarters of an hour. They re- minded the captain of his repeated promise to be as short as he possibly could, and it was clear he could dispense w ith all this same wheelint^ and flourishing if he chose. They were already very thirsty, and if he would not dismiss them, they de- ' dared they would go oft* without dismission, and get something to drink ; and he might fine them if that would do him any good ; they were able to pay their fine, but could not go without drink to please any body ; and they swore they would never vote for another captain who wished to be so unreasonably strict. " The captain behaved with great spirit upon this occasion^ and a smart colloquy ensued ; when t > A MILITIA Ml'^Trn. 4.'if> lit Icnf^th, brcomin^ ; the climate and Nt.W-PAPERS. 44 *lisra«c;;, nj^'iiciilHire, and niaiuifacfurcs of that Tlicro are ihivv. nt'.vspapcrs pithlislicd daily in < i!;irlc?l:ui. The (.'iln i^dzt lie auts a niediuni liety.ccn the two other.s. It cMpies iiiinartially fioni the English and French papers, and the editor seldom troubles the public wiUi any political disquisition of his own. All the papers arc well stocked w itli advertisements, an: Dug- wluch, prime C(m%o, Gam- bia, and Angola sla-ves for sale at Gadsden's wharf, were very conspicuous before the aboli- tion of that inliuman traffic; at praeui, r:u:'au(:if negrocfiy auctiou^,, stores, and sherij/"s sales, fill lip most of the columns ; and with hmg, fulsome paragraphs in praise of the dead, leave but litth^ space for the news of the day. Advert isennuds arc often drawn up in a ludicrous style ; and re wards offered for lost or stolen property, that are uot likely to facilitate their recovery. One rent reward is sometimes olFercd to those who v\i;l apprehend a negro fellow^ or wench, that hav. yl»- Su %jj M. MlKtJm ■ 444 DIVISIONS OF SOUTH CAROLINA. I'l'ta scondcd from a planiation ; and I once saw a reward of thirty-nine lashes oircred for the reco- very of a pair of saddle bags, which had been stolen oft' a horse ; and ** that anj d d rascal who stole them, and would return the same to Thomas Stokes, should receive the above re- -ward!" South Carolina may be divided into lower, middle, and upper coun- an estate of inheritance in free and common socca«je; and is attended with 110 other expense, on obtainine: the grant, than the payment of certaiii small fees of oflice. It is in- herited by the laws of this state in equal shares, amongst all of the same degree ; and if sold, is conveved bv lease and release, feofl'ment with de- livery, or by simple deed, according to a late act of the legislature, passed for that purpose. Few lands are holden on lease ; or if they be, the leases are for short terms, and liberal conditions^ and in general the lands are possessed and tilled by the rightful owners of the soil. The incomes of the planters ands farmers are various, ranging from 80,000 to 40 dollars. Verjr lew, however, receive incomes of the magnitude of the f(»rmer sum. Many receive from 12,000 to ^0,000 dollars per annum ; but the majority of the planters are only in the annual receipt of from 3,000 to 6,000 dollars. The estates of these latter may be worth from twenty to forty thou- iand dollars. The farmers arc on a smaller scale; and their incomes may be said to range between 2,000 and 40 dollars. The best lands in South Carolina, which are tide-swamps, if culti?ated^ '/V.V' p; ' ii J I- m '^m 6* Mi n^ 'lUh Ihir 44G IIOUSKF. have solvl for 170 dollars p(;i' imto. Id ^rncraf, however, tliey sell from 70 to 90 dolhu? ati acre, on a credil of one or two v^ius. l;nriililv;ited tide land sells pro|M)rtion:ii)!y lov.er. Inland swamps, if cultivated, sell at prices between fiO and 50 dollars per acre. Good cotfori land has sold in Beaufort district as biirli as GO dolltrs per acre ; its value, however, in general, in dif- ferent parts of the slate, is from six to fortj- dol- lars ; the price depending much on its situation, as that nearest the sea, for instance, is eonsj dered the most valuable, and produces the fine-t cotton. Other high lands sell from one lo hix dollars an acre, according to their res[ ectivc si- tuations and conveniences for navigation. The buildings are as various as the value of estates, ranging in value between 30,000 and 20 dollars. They are commonly built of wood ; some, however, are constructed of brick ; thougii they are principally in the cities and towns. OT late years, building has been carried on with spir.t throughout the state, and houses of brick and wood erected suitable to the improvement of tho manners and comforts of society. The houses are, for the most part, built of one or two stories, according to the taste and abilities of (lie owner One peculiarity, however, may be romarkad re- specting them, which is, that piazzas are gene- rally attached to their southern front, as well for the convenience of walking therein during the :J i y HUSBANDRY OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 4i7 day, as for preventing the sun's too great in- fluence on the interior of the hou-ic, and the out- olfices and kitchens are rarely connected with the principal d^vclling-, being phiced at a distance from it, of thirty or forty yards. The houses of the poorest sort of people, are made of logs, let into each other at the ends, and their interstices iilled up with moss, straw, and clay. The roofs arc covered with clap-boards. Their plan is simple, as they consist of only one or tv^^o rooms; and the manners of their tenants are equally plaiji. From the modern settlements of South Caro- lina, those improvements in her husbandry have not yet taken place, which in older nations, have proceeded under happy influences. Nature has been so kind to the soil of this state, and adapted it to such early and productive vegetation, that the exertions of the cultivator are not called forth so particularly, as are necessary in less favourable situations. Hence all the art of manuring, and rotation of crops have, hitherto, been little at- tended to; and when one piece of land has been exhausted by culture, another has been cleared of woods for similar purposes. The ease of mak- ing this change, without the necessity of con- tinually forming heaps of manure, has of course led to a slovenliness in husbandry, which, to an experienced farmer, would bespeak ignorance and inattention. This, however, is not the case, as tli« crops generally produce good returns^ and the as IPRODUCTION* OF THE SOlt. 4: '=' v-.i necessaries of life may be obtained in that siAie with as much ease, as perhaps any part of the world can supply. In the husbandry of South Carolina, two ob- jects are particularly kept in view by the plan- ters and farmers. The first is, to raise sometliintv for sale ; and the second is, to jirocure provisions for family concerns. To the first, the principal attention is directed, as being the source from whence all pecuniary advancements are made : while the other is only attended to as ojjportiini- ties permit. Hence, skill is chiefly observable in natters relating to primary objects ; and in se- condary ones, much is left to accidental circum- stances. In the lower country^ cotton and rice arc cultivated largely for sale; while Indian corn, cow peas, and long potatoes, are only planted suflicient for the yearly consumption of the settlement: and on many of the tide-swamp rice plantations, no provisions hut potatoes, art^ planted ; their produce being only equal to thf* support of the plantation for a few months. The rest is supplied by the purchase of Indiur^ corn, brought down the rivers from tiie middle parts of the slate, and also imported fiom some of the United States. In the middle country, eottonj and Indiai^r corn are principally raised for sale ; and (he pro- duce of all kinda of grain is so abundant, tha^ there is 120 want of provision for the support of it ii^ie of the vo ob- plan- eiliini.^ visions iiicipa! ; from made : [)rti!ni- ablc in in sc- irciim- nd rice Indian e only tion of ivvanip es, arr to thf" ontlis . Indian niddk 1 some ncliaif c pro- t,tba^ )ort of ADVENTURE OF MISS VAN C — . 449 ftoltlcment before the commissioners of his Ma- jestv's dock-yards ; and^ 1 believe, obtained an ackno\vledij,inent, that they would receive ^vbat- cvcr timber she should send home. Elated with this success^ she immediately supplied herself, at a great expense, with implements of agriculture, and almost every new-invented instrument for farming, bhe could think of; with an abundance of ropes, und machines for pulling down trees, and grubbing up their roots. Thus equipped, she embarked by herself for the happy land, which, to her sanguine imagination, was far superior to Potosi or Peru. After a fatiguing voyage, which would, per- haps, have damped the ardour of a mind less en- thusiastic than her's, she arrived at Quebec, and produced her letters from the great folks at home. But she soon learnt, there were great people in Canada as well as in England, for, instead of being received with open arms, as she expected, and as one who incurred much expense and trou- ble to benefit the colony and mother country, as Avell as herself, she was treated with shyness, and ^vas even considered as rather cracked in the hraiii In spite, however, of the mortification she expe- rienced from the sneers and whispers of the good people of Quebec, she set ofl' up the country, to carry her project into execution. After expe- riencing many vexatious diificulties on the way, she arrived within a day's journey of Ijer lands, VOT. 1. ^ G m ."t:> _(!W»*?*i*-'*. f 4bU ADVENTUIIE OF MISS VAN C- (1 which lay many miles back from any settlement She put up for the night at a miserable log-hut., in the midst of a gloomy forest ; Nvhere even Pan himself would never thought of venturing in search of a wood n3'niph : but scarcely had she laid herself down to rest, when she heard the report of a gun, and, in an instant^ two or three men rushed into the hut. They were at first going to carry her oft*; but upon second thoughts, which are often better than the first, they merely begged the favour to help themselves to her money, and some other property she had brought with her, which having done, they immediately departed. Nothing could exceed the terror and conster- nation of the poor unfortunate lady, who, not- withstanding she was possessed of a greater share of courage than generally falls to her sex, yet was 10 much alarmed at being robbed in a place whert she expected to have met with nothing but .?;)o/> less innocence, and pastoral 1iaj>pi?icss, that she set oft--for Quebec the next morning. There she endeavoured to dispose of her lands, but on a survey being made^ they were found to be so re- motely situated, that nobody would give any thing for them. There was no communication but by narrow paths, and neither road nor river by which the timber might be carted or floated from the spot. The poor lady was therefore obliged to return to England unsuccessful, after incurring a very great expense and being exposed tlement, log-liut, re even urin^ in had she card ilie or three rst going ts, which ^ begged iiey, and rt'ith her, leparted. conster- ho, not- kter bhare , jet was ice whert but .ffot- that she 'here she but on a be so re- give any unication nor river or floated therefore ful, after g exposed AMEniCAV OAK, BinCIT, AND MAPLE TREES. 451 to the insulting sneers of unfeeling strangers. I wastohl that some of her ropes and new-invented implements for clearing land, arc yd lying in one of the merchant's stores at Quebec. The American oak is quicker in its growth, but less durable than that of Europe. One spe- cies, called the live oak, which is, however, found only in the warmer parts of the country, is said by many to be equal, if not superior to the English oak for ship-building, The white oak is the best that is found in the Canadian settle- ments, and is chiefly used for the building of vessels at Quebec and Montreal. The birch tree affords an excellent bark, of which the Indians make canoes, baskets, and co- verings for their huts and wigwams. The wood of the black birch is used by the Canadians fo** carts, and cart-wheels, tables, and other article* of domestic use. One of the most useful trees in Canada is the maple tree (acer saccharinum) which supplies the inhabitants with abundance of excellent sugar, and the best fire-wood. I have in a former chapter adverted to the mode of procuring the sap of this tree, and manufacturing it into sugar. It is not cut down for fire-wood till exhausted of its sap, when it is generally preferred, and fetches a higher price than any other fire-wood sold at market. There is another species, or rather variety, ;3g2 i m |!. 4 iltr m ft ' U . _j(SK«»»*>*.i.i««i*i-i*',-ar ^*^ i.V2 GlMENG^^CAi'ILAinC called the cnilcd maplo, wlii<:]i is rnurli nscd lor cabiiiet-woik, Ihc wood being very prettily w.ivcd or curled. It requires Tour or fi\e yriiis to se.ison properly, bi'fnri? it can be worked up. The wliiio cedar is plentiful in CaiKida, and reckoned (be most durable wood lor poals, railing-s, and piek- etini^. Tlie red cedar is scarcely ever met v\ illi in tbe forests. Two plants^ formerly of great importance in Canada, are now eilber almost extirpated, or are little noticed as articles of coa.aiercc ; tiicse were ginseng and capiLiirc. 'Ihe Airmer plant Mras found in iireat abLuidante in tlic ciirlv settle- inent of tbe French in tlic colony, and Lir^';c (juan- tities were expnrtiMl (o i^^ranec, iVoni whence it Mas re-exported to T'hina. Tbe bigb price wbith >vas given for it by the Cbincsc, tempted tlie Canadians to gatber tbe roots before tlic [)ro[)cr time ; not content with wiiic'.i., they employed the Indians in travelling (brouLjb tbe country to collect thcni wherever a root could be found. The consequence was, that tbe Canadian giuiicng soon became exhausted, and at this day few plants arc to be found Tbe trade in capilaire was alsoat one time extremely brisk, but if now eitber ex- hausted, like the ginKcn;^;, or neglected for more iaiportant articles. A small quantity is some- times exported from Quebec. The sumach is a very common shrub in Lo\ycr Canada, as well as in other parts of America, a f»»i POISONOUS SUMACH. 453 y waved {) season, hcwliilc )iK;d Ihc 11(1 pifU- t v\ it'll ill (mice in I, or arc! ; ; these u;r plant Iv settle- [,>;g qu;ni- thcncc it cc ^vhich jptcd the :e proper uup loved )iuitry to Hid. The \Q\\'^ soon )lan(s arc as also at ;ilhcr cx- for more is some- in Lo\yer lerica. 1 Jjavc seen only one sptt'^^s (rhus glabra, I be- lieve) thon£>;li there are one of two others. It irrows about fi\e feethip,!!, in hcd|;Cf arid among otI?er Jjhruhs, and hears J irirc thisti'rs ot* berries, of a deep crimson. The t/rarirhes and berries, lH>iled tof^-elher, or separately, are very useful lor dytdiif;* ; but th.e Canadians seldom |}ut the fruit to any other Ui^c thafi the making' of vinejj;ar. 'V\w borrii's remain on ilie plant during* winter, but n by the jinine of the poison tree. Some ex- traordi'.iarj particular-: aic, mentioned concerning t'iis shrub, whose noxious cfTliivia all'eetsi soioc ]irople no mncli, that thej canr.ot appjoach the |d.ice where it p^rov.'?, cr eveji e.\pofce theuiselvej to the wind whic'.i carries its ;3oisonous exiiaia.'ion with it, without having their hancU', Tace, and other [)arts of the body blistered and swelled ; L\Q'A thi'ireyes are closed for some davs together, l)y the violent tumoiu's it cre;ites : } et others can .'ipproach this shrub, and handle it without the k*ast inconvenience. It has, however, been known" to alTecttiie laiter when in a state of perspiration, but then not v, ilhout rubbing- the plant violently between tlieii- haLids. There is a ptatit, or weed, very common iq .; n ^.'>i .*;»**«*> 4M flERBE A LA PUCK. Iltiil m Lower Canada, called by the French, hevbe d la puce, which possesses nearly the same deleterious qualities as the rhus vermix, or poisonous sumach, being noxious to some, and harmless to others. I have seen several persons who have been confined to the house, in consequence of having been poi- soned in the woods by this weed; even the mere treading upon it, is sufficient to create swellings and inflammations. Yet I have seen other people handle it with safety, and have myself often pulled it up by the root, broke the stem, and co- vered my hands with the milky juice which it contains, without rxperiencing any disagreeable effect. What property it is in the constitution of people which thus imbibes or repels the poi- sonous qualities of this plant, I have never been able to learn, nor can I, from observation, account for it. Many gardens are full of it, which occasions it to be considered there as a weed. The roots ap- pear to spread under ground to a considerable extent, and though the plant may be cut off every year, yet it springs up again in another place. It makes its appearance about the end of May, and runs up like the runners of j^carletbeans, entwining itself round any tree, plant, or paling, that comes in its way ; and if there js nothing upon which the young shoots can support themselves, they adhere to each other. Their leaves and stems are of a light green^ and they are in full flower In COCCINELLA. 455 'be a hi 'terious umacli, icrs. I onfiiieil en poi- le in ere .veilings r people f often and co- rbie h it ^reeablc iitution the poi- i'er been acconnt isions it 3C+S ap- idcrable )ff every lace. It ajj and twining it comes I which PS, they d steniK ower \\\ Jnly. \S hcievcr the herbe a la puce grows, there is always to be found a great number of beautiful lady flies (coccinclla). They are co- vered with a brilliant gold, as long a» they arc on the leaf, or retain any particle of its juice. I caught some of them, and put them into a phiai ; but neglecting to put some leaves of the herbe a la puce with them, they had, by the next morning, lost their splendid coat, and merely resembled the common red lady fly which we have in England. I then caught a few more, and having supplied them well with the leaves of that plant, they retained their gold tinge equally as well as in the open air. In a few days they had reduced the leaves to mere skeletons ; but as long as there remained a morsel of the stalk or fibres to feed on, their beautiful appearance continued. I kept them upwards of a month in this manner, giving them occasionally fresh leaves of the plant, and admitting the air through some holes that I pricked in the paper, with which I had covered the mouth of the phial. They would feed upon no other plant than that of the herbe a la puce, from which alone they derived their beauty. I afterwards gave them their liberty, and they flew away, apparently little Ihe worse for their confine- ment. Another plant of a remarkable^ but more bene- ^1 !t« I ill f|.:l| n i. ; ^ '.'■'■ • I',;":, .^ .j«i^*«to*v. 456 COTONNIER. ■' 1 ficial nature, is the cotton flant, or as the FiTutli call it, the cotonnier, which grows abuudiuitly in Lower Canada. As it delights in a good soil, it forms nearly as correct a criterion to jndg'c of the quality of laud as the maple tree ; for, like it, the cotonnier possessor^ saccharine qualities. It comes np in tlie month of IVIav, much like aspara- gus, and \shen it is nine or ten inches hi^h, is cut down, sold at market, dressed and eaten much in the same manner. If left to grow, it rises to a plant about three ^cqI high, and bears a flower resenibiing the lilac, of a liner though weaker fragrance. In the month of August, there is an abundant dew upon its leaves and flowers, whidi continues for a fortnight or three weeks. This being shaken off into basons, before or imme- diately after sun-rise, a quantity of sweet liquor or syrup is collected , which being boiled down to a proper consistency, yields a very good sugar, resembling honey bolh m colour and flavour. Some of the Canadian farmers procure a tolerable quantity of this sugar for their family use; but very little is ever sold. The cotonnier is of a pale dull green, and its stem containsalactescentliquor similar to ihehcrhe a la puce, from which circumstance it has most probably been considered by the Canadians, to possess fjonie poisonous property : nolwithsianding which they eat the young planis.and make sugJU' COTONMER. 457 su^tir of the syrup or dew which tlioy collect from the leaves and flowers; and uo instance lias ever occurred of any deleterious eilects having- been experienced from it. The cattle, however, ahvays avoid it. I'he pods of the cotonnier, when riper, are somewhat in the shape of an e<';ii', only more pointed at the ends, and from three to four inches long. They contain a fine white silky substance, extremely soft, and resembling- cotton, from which it takes its name. The seeds of the plant are attached to one end of this substance, p.nd are vcrv luaiicioui. The Canadians iuake uo other use of the cotton, than as a substitute for feathers, to fill tlicir m;ittres3es ajul nilioA^s with; though it appears caijable ofbetii/i; ap- propriattid to much more important uses. Pc-jpcr und even cloth, I should thir;k, n)ip;iit be madt: from it with facility, ft requires no attention iu the culture, but springs up wherever it liim]:^ n soil cougeiiial to its iiatuic. Br,,' tint (|uaiity oT its cotton aright possibly be very much improved, if prope'.ly cultivated in plantations; iiidcpeu dent of which, cou';i(icrable quaiiiiti(\s of excel- lent sugar, a|ipareiiily superior to lliC lUciplc, might be colicctcd with very little trouble. \\ era i to reside in Cj.iaJa, there is nothing in uhich I should dclig'it more than in forming a lar^;c puuitaiiou of the cotounicr, and endeavourii.g to piing the produce uf that already valuable |,l;uit i(i«^' T r^ i« :m . H, :,'•;« .iSiki^tt*^ r-vjjisi#.v..* -,)f n**r 458 ONION TREE. info sonic important use ; which T ara confident iiiii::ht be done with very little trouble and ex- pense. I am only surprized that no person has hitherto treated it with the attention it merits. As a plantation for su^ar only, it would be ex- tremely valuable, and save the immense labour and loss of time which the collecting? of the maple sugar occasions, at a period when the husbandman is much wanted on his farm. The dew from the cotonnier may be j^athered by children, and at so early an hour in the morning, that it could never interfere with th^ business of the day. 'J'he boiling of it down into sugar is a simple process, and might be easily conducted by the women. There is a shrub which the French also call cotoiuiier, but it is of a very difl'erent nature to tlie preceding plant ; and is called by naturalists the water-beech. The three-leaved hellebore, and tlie galium tinctorum, are q^ed by the Indians and Canadians for dyeing. The first is of a fine vellow, and the other of a bril- liant red. A plant called the omo7i tree, which is met with in the Canadian gardens, is of a curious nature. Its stalk runs up to the same height, and it has much the same appearance, as the common onion, when in seed ; but it contains several branches, and at the end of each, a clnster of liioderate sized onions. Tlfese are its seed, and i LOWERS AND PLANTS. 459 if left ill the cluster, will frequently bmnch out, and each bear other clno*cis, but of a more diminutive size. The onion tree is propagated by planting. In the woods are found a variety of wild flow- ers and plants, many of them as handsome as those reared in gardens. One of these, which the French call sweet garlic, is extremely pretty : it has two large leaves springing up from its root, of a pale grass green, between which its stem rises to the height often or a dozen inches, bear- ing about half a dozen very pretty flowers, some- what resembling in shape and colour, the blue bell. Another, denominated the wild turnip, is also a very handsome plant, and grows to the height of two feet or more. Its stem is about half an inch thick at the root, and diminishes gradually in size, to the top. It is streaked with green and brown, and bears three large dark green leaves, spreading out in the form of a cross ; other stems branch out from the main one, bearing similar leaves; and in the centre is a beautiful flower, having a slight resemblance to a tulip : it is handsoniily variegated with brown, red, green, and yellow tints, and sfrciik«, which soften to- wards the stem. The forests are full of the most valuable herbs, roots, and grasses, the properties of t n V, .,j«i«P«»»«'.- 460 SUN FLOWEn,-?, * In » y»' m vhiCii a.rp jrenerally vtll known to the Indians, and to many of tiic Canadians. A moFs culled by the French tripe de rochers, which I take to be Ibe rein deer nio.ss, often serves the Indi.ia and Canadian voyag-eurs for food, ulieu tlieir provisions are short; or, as is somelivnes the case, quite exhausted. They boil it dv)v. ;j, and drink tiie liquor, which is reckoned \cry nutritive. An hc.b called the Indian lea, is frequently u:.ed, as a substitu(e lor that of Cliina, aiid considered much more whoh'soine. It has a pleasant aromatic flavor. A species of wild oa;l.iiid as well as in Canada. I'lic seed nuiat be sown in a {j'ood soil^ and about line;; feel (iistanl IVom each oll)('r, in a sniall hole. \^ lien the plant is about a yard iiigh, it must be liillcvl round "Nvith mould. An acre of land will produce about forty or fii'ty bushels of seed, wliieh will yield as many gallons of oil. The seeds, when quite ripe, arc ludled, and afterwards reduced to a powder. They arc then put into a strong bag of v/oollen or can- vas cloth, arid placed between the i-on plates of a press, by which the oil is e.':pressed info proper vessels, which are ]t!accd iindc.Tieath, to receive it. The plales of the press are oi'ten heated, but oil drawn from cold plates is best, and will keep much loii^\cr, for the heat is apt to make the o.her rar,cidj though it produces a larger quantity of oil. In a cold season, a certain d";';ree of boat is necessary ; but when the oil is v.anted for aliment, or rcedieiye, the plates shouki be heated by boiling water only. So'.iielimes, wiicn the bruised seed is dry, it may be e>: posed to the steam of boiliiig,' water, wheri tied up in « bEg. Every expressed oil. when yiv:^, ar.d fre.dij 1 ■ i T-j ;>■♦,»• 462 SUN FLOWERS, and obtained with caution, is as void of acvK mony, and free from anj particular taste or smell, as Florence oil. The sun-flower oil i» extremely mild, and may be used for sallad, and all the purposes for which olive oil is now used. hi f HEMP AND FLAX. iC^'i m e or il h Had, il is CHAPTER XXII Hemp arid Flax, Natives of Canada, little ciUti- vated — Profitable Article — Wavering Conduct of the Northern Poicers — Attempts to raise Hemp in Canada and the East Indies — Al- leged Reasojis of their Failure — Expenditure of immense Sums of Money — Trimsactions of the Societi/ of Arts — Board of Trade — Unsuc- cessful Attempts — Proposition to the Lords of the Council — Agreement — Certificate of the Merchants — Embarkatioji'-^Arrival at Quebec "■^Unforeseen Difficulties — Great Losses-^ Bad Seed — Application to the Governor General-^^ Causes xchich have prevented the Culture of Hempin Canada — Shameful Treatment — Scru- ples of the Clergy removed — Existence of a Secret Party — Extraordinary Circumstance — Kiln-dried Seed — Dr. Taylor — Naval Stores — Culture of Hemp in Canada, a J^ational Con- cern — Experiments of the Earl of Shannon. IIemp and flax are both natives of the North American continent. Father Hennepin found the former growing wild in the country of the Illinois, and Sir Alexander Mackenzicj in his tra- vels to the I'acific Ocean, met with flax in the "'.»; ■ ■ . u i mi ' -i-i ■, < *! I ,'* i h 'In _.ste»ii^ 4i;i- HRMP AVn FLAX M' . M infrrior, \Ahrro no Kiiropoan v.as ever knnwri to have bcon belore. Tliorc is al>o anollior plaal, a iiafivc of Canada and olhcr parts of Noidi Anioiit;i, known bv the rtanie of lii'iiiui hemp. It is spokon of in Iho Aoiorican [Philoso- phical Transactions, pnl)lis!ic(l at Phihidclphi i, in the foUowinij;' manner : '' Tiiis nhmt ^rows in inatis places. Ijut drliijhts r.iore I'articnliirh' in liiiht sandy soils, lis ])ark is so jtron;^- (!\at t])0 IniiiaiKN tnakt; use of it lor bow-stiina-s. Could Nvc but fnul a niflliod of scparatinii; and s-'^fifnini;' its fjbn s so as to render i{ (it to be spun iiilo f HiC tl irea I, it jvii?iiit serve as a subsiilu to n nr tJax and henip. 'i'liis plant destrvcs to be colli- laicd on anoth.tr riccount. The pod it beai:s conhtin^ .5 substance, liiat from its solinrsf irnd elLisficiiy, niiivht be used instead of ihe iinuht tl(»v. 11. lis cuituio IS easVj inasmuch as W'r^ rviot, wliicli penetrates deep into the e-isth, suiviveaf 2 winter, and slioois out fresh stalk^^ every spring;. Vi\c or six years after beiiig* .sown, it is m 1I3 f, reaiest pcrfecticiu " II may tiierciJie be truly said that Canada i;5 ii {n^iiip conutj V ; e\en more so than Russia er Pol-ind. lict, Mill i( be credited, that tlioi;!::h V, e have had the tvv^o provinces in our possessioa tall half a century, net a sini;le ton of hemp has ever been procured from them, while we have been piiying i'^ foreig-ii powers^ often our very HEMP, A TROFITABLK ARTICLE. 465 ■.V A\ lis P haS ii;ive enciuics, more than a intlliou and a half annually « for that important article. The Canadians cultivate flax merely for their own domestic use, hut a few hundred hushels of linseed arc sometimes exported from Quebec. Hemp is to be seen growing* in a wild uncultivated state round tlu-ir houses, where it runs into large plants of seven or eight feet in height ; but it is only for the purpose of producing seed for their birds, beyond which, they never concern them- selves about it. The soil and climate are admi- rably adapted to the growth of hemp, and are in every respect as favourable to it as Russia and Poland. It is a very tenacious plant, and is with difficulty rooted out, where it has grown for any length of time. In the town and neighbourhood of'Three Rivers, though a very sandy, and other- wise barren soil, it springs up in almost every garden, and lines the banks of the river almost to the water's edge. Yet no other attention is paid to it, than for the purpose before mentioned. It may perhaps be worthy of remark, that birds of every description in Canada, are fed wholly upon hemp-sccd. Hemp is one of the most profitable and valuable productions of the earth. It enriches the culti- vator, and furnishes shipping with the most use- ful and important part of its equipment. The several processes of hemp also benefit the statCj by employing many hands, that could not be so VOL. I. 2 H ^, l«4 •n ji^et^^' 466 CONDUCT OF THE NORTHERN f 0\TERg. i'! [i r-i I'll usefully and profitably enc^a^cil in other occupfi- tions. The advantage, therefore, which a country must derive from the culture and manufacture o{' hemp, throughout its several branches, cannot hr doubted ; and is sufTiciently proved by the im- portance which Russia has derived from her com- merce in that article ; by which she has, in a manner, rendered the i:;reatest navy in the world dependent upon her will and caprice. The wa- verinp; conduct of that power has often threatened us with the stoppage of our marine stores; and, in conjunction with the other northern powers, she has, at times, found it no unprofitable instrument to hold in terrorem over us. That we have nev«M yet experienced any sensible difficulty for the want of naval stores, has been more owing to a variety of fortunate events, which have dissolved or ren- dered defective their coalitions, than to the sup- plies wc may have received from any other quar- ter. While such was the precarious state of our in- tercourse with the northern powers at various periods, and the uncertainty of being able any longer to procure our usual supplies of naval stores, especially hemp ; it was a matter of sm- prize and regret to all, that govern tneiit was not able to procure those essential articles from our colonics abroad. Caiuitlu, in particular, was well known to be capable of alTording every article a.^ good, and in equal plenty, as those wc derived ATTEMPTS TO RAISE HEMP IN CANADA. 457 fioin the llultic ; provided (ho .'ittaiiiinent of thoiie supplies was inudi; a national toncern. It was cvidcMit that {government nuist intcrft re ; for in- dividuals, ii'tliev possessed tlie abilities, had not the means of accomplishinp,- such an important object. At length, the attention of goTernment was louzed to the necessity of procuriui^ hemp from some of onr own settlements; and in (he year 1800, the lords of the council for trade and plan- tations, took into their consideration the means by which they might introduce the culture of that phint in the East Indies,, and the British colonies of North America. Previous, however, to this, v&rious experiments had been indirectly tried in Canada, and considerable sums of money expended for several years, but no other encou- ragement was held forth than bounties and medals : compensations of too trifling a nature to influence a people naturally indolent, and to overconje a variety of obstacles of another de- icription. The public money, however, was an- nually expended, abundant supplies of hemp- seed and manufacturing implements were sent out; and the government agents appeared to be actively engaged in furthering this important concern, but all to no purpose. Eighteen or twenty years elapsed, and not a hundred weigh* of hemp had been sent home. It was at this period that the Board of Trade ^ u 9. "'(•.la i 468 EXPLuiiMENTS IN TH ^ EAkT INDIES. 'Id ? 'i m endeavoured to bring the cultiire of hemp to a successful issue, and determined not to confine their 'inquiries to Canada alone, they caused several experiments to be tried in the East Indies, and for two or three years their exertions were indefatigable. No better success, however, at- tended their endeavours (though larger bounties were offered, and new machines sent out) than had been' before experienced ia Canada. Why the culture of hemp did not succeed in the East Indies^ I have never correctly ascertained ; but i have heard, that the climate 13 too hot, and that the hemp grows too fine for large cordage. As to Canada, a variety of obstacles were enume- rated as the reason of its not succeeding in that country. Among the rest, Mr. Vondenveldcn, of Quebec, wrote to the Society of Arts, that iU failure might be attributed to the attachment of the Canadians to old customs ; and to the oppo- sition and prejudice of the Romish clergy, the wheat merchants, and the seigniors : The first of whom depend for tithes ; the second for sue cess in trade ; and the third for the employment of their mills, the chief source of their revenues^ upon abundant crops of wheat ; which they con- ceived the introduction of the cullure of hemp, would partly, if not totally annihilate, llic idleness of the Canadians, the scarcity of work- ing hands, and scanty population, were also enu- merated among the greatest ob^^icles to the cul- TRANSACTIONS OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS. 4G9 tiirc of hemp in Canada. Thus, after so many years' exertion, and the expenditure of upwards of 40,000/., we were still obliged to trust to the precarious supplies of that essential article from a foreign power ; who, whatever his leal interest or inclination might have been, has several times been obliged to become our enemy. It appears, nevertheless, from several recent volumes of the Transactions of the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, &c. that the culture of hemp in Canada was not an hopeless under- taking, but that it required proper people to con- duct it, and a sufficient capital to carry it into execution. In their preface to volume 21st^ the Society say, " That theif have ascertained bt/ actual experiments^ that Canada can furnish hemp equal in quality for the uses of the navy to that from the Baltic, and it is hoped that government will attend to that point upon which the balance now stands suspended, as the scale may be brought to preponderate for ever to the national advan- tage, if our government will purchase from our own colonies on fair terms with ready money, and by proper agents, that article for which the same sums must else be paid to foreign powers, of whose deliberations we must otherinjise stand in awe." In the preface to their 22d volume, the So- ciety observe that, " Every man is sensible of providing supplies of this kind from our own i\('\ • .^aaito'tew. .. imimxxi-^-^.' M U I'l, I'i '■ 1; |( ll 'ill ( '1) (j 31 470 UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPTS, colonies, and in our last preface we expressed our wishes that government would attend to that im- portant point. It is well known that the growers of hemp in Canada hcrce not capitals to give credit npoiiy nor arc the cultivators merchants." From this it appears, that the Society were of opinion that the government did not ofl'cr sufficient sup- port or encouragement, to carry the culture of hemp properly into effect ; and that it was left in the hands of ignorant or interested agents, who looked only to their own private emolument. If such was the opinion of the Society, it has since been fuiiy verified bj' the treatment my uncle ex- perienced in the course of his undertaking; not, however, that the least blame, as far as I know, can attach to the Board of Trade, whose exertions seem to have been directed wholly to the good of the country, and the accomplishment of the important object which they had in view. That they were unsuccessful, must be attributed chiefly to tlieir want of information respecting the real state of Canada, and relying too much upon the fallacious rcpresentationie of interested people in that country. As Mr. Campbell's attempt to introduce the cul- ture of hemp into Canada, was undertaken in con- sequence of ar. agreement entered into with his Majesty's governm:int, and, of course, intimately connected with tlie observations i have madecon- cerniiig the sieccssity of accomplishing that ira- 3IR. CAMPBELL S UNDERTAKING. 471 t>ortaiit object; I feel myself obliged, in justice to my relationj and the public, to make known his proceedings in the prosecution of that undertak- ing, and the causes which have hitherto retarded its success. The subject is of a nature that ma- terially interests the public ; otherwise, no con- sideration of friendship, or affection, should have influenced me to obtrude upon their notice the concerns of a private individual. In the vcar 180^^, after the Board had in vain endeavoured to introduce the culture of lienip in the British colonics abroad, Mr. Campbell, wno had paid great attention, at various periods, to the cultivation of that article, and made several experiments, with a view to its being introduced into Canada, laid before their Lordsliips a plan for that purpose, by which he clearly demon- strated the possibilit. of its being brought to ma- turity, provided the government woul'«W*+'-^--« ■«*'- !■■' ; 474 PKOPOSfTIONS TO TliE LOKDS OF THE COrNCIL* been occasioned cither bj bad seed, or tlieir ignorance ; neither Nvould any niatcriiil diminu- tion be experienced in their usual crops of wheat ; but, even shoukl that be the case, an indemnifi- cation, or tithe, niii!,ht he ^raiUed to the priests and seigniors, in hemp, or hemp-seed, for which purpose, an act of the Provincial Parliament might he passed. As to the wheat merchants, he did not see bow they could regret *.:J*«»«'^. •- 476 CERTIFICATE OF THE MEHCHANTS. ! >';'' Deration, as the undertaking^ proceeded with sue* cess; and, whatever difliculiies he miji;ht experi- ence for the want of so large a capit;il, as was ne- cessary to carry on the works in tlie manner he had designed, and which would oblige him to alter some material parts of his plan, yet he i\t\i satisfied that he should be able to fulfil his part of the agreement, as long as the government con- tinued to fulfil theirs. The Board was well sa- tisfied of Mr. C.'s ability to carry his plans into execution in ever}' respect, having taken the opi- nion of the most experienced farmers and agri- culturists on the subject, among whom were Sir John Sinclair and Mr. Arthur Young. They were also equally well satisfied as to the merit and propriety of his plans, from the following testi- mony of several merchants of London, who were connected with houses in Canada, and some of whom had resided in that country, and had been employed by the Board of Trade, to promote the culture of hemp. "Mr. J. Campbell having submitted to us a plan for the erection of mills in Canada, for beat- ing hemp, we are of opinion, that the inhabit- ants of that country can never be brought to cul- tivate, in any great (juantity, uiii(*ss some mode is devised of beating it,, otherwise than by manual labour, as the expense attending thereon will al- ways deter the pUuiter from growing an article that requires so much labour and expense. CERTIFICATE OV THE MERCHANTS. 477 " From the rale illations laid before us by Mr, Campbell, sbovvina,' what can be done by ina- chiiierjj in opposition to manual labour, it appears evident to us, that in a country so thinly popu- lated as Canada, the erectinj:; of mills, as now proposed, is best calculated to remove the obstacle that has hitherto existed, and which will alvvay? continue to exist, till some measure of the present liind is adopted. " We are also further of opinion, that if Mr, CampbelVs plan is put in execution bjj the govern- ment of this country, that in the event of its suc- cess, it may introduce the cultivation of hemp ge- nerally into Canada, and in the course of time become an object of national importance. It will also have the further eflbct of ascertaining a most material point. That is, whether Canada can supply this country with hemp. The soil is al- lowed to be favorable. Nothing, therefore, is want- ing, Jmt to make it the planter's interest to grow it. Mr. Campbell shews, that the Government bouii- lies could never be a sufficient inducement, and that the object proposed can not be obtained but by means of machinery. ^J. Brickwood, ''London, \john Inglis, July m, 1804/' Signed Sj^hn Frazer, VGoodall & Turner/' The Lords of the Council, being thus perfectly satisfied, an agreement was entered into in Sep- It \i % AH '11 47 S ARKIVAL AT QULBKC. !• n tembrr, 1805, and bonds given on Urn part of JVIr. C. to fulfil the conditions of it. Four liinidred pounds were advanced ; and Mr. Rose, who was then secretarv to the Board, faithfully promised that he should receive. 150 acres of clear land im- inciUatclij on lus arrival. Dispatches fo that pur- port were given him from Lord Castlcreagh's of- fice, which were to be delivered to the governor, or person administering' the government of Lower Canada. Mr. C. accordingly set off for Scot- land, where I afterwards joined him, to collect his people, consisting' of farmers, mill-wrights, carpenters, and blacksmiths, who came under agreements with him for five jears. It was the month of August, 1S06, before he had completely arranged his affairs, and on the 1st of September we sailed from the Clyde. After a passage of two months, we arrived at Quebec. Mr. C. had written, a twelvemonth before, to a merchant at Quebec, who had been recommended as his agent, requesting him to acquaint the Ca- nadian government of his appointment, and in- tention of being in Canada in the fall of the year, in order that a farm of 150 acres mii^ht be ready for him on his arrival. He pointed out u cerlriu spot which he should prefer; but, at ail events he begged that he might not be di^r.pjjoiiited of lands in some appropriate situation, where he might set his people immediately to work, as he dreaded keeping them any length of time ah DISAPPOINTMr.NT. 479 Quebec, where tli?v would be cornipted, and leave liis servi nrcsicii vti. R,<)se to wnfe to the same effect. Jle there Oht, on liis ririivat, full y expected, that after a tv/elveinonth'^ notice, t)ie farm would be ready io * him t{\ takr iionitMlifite possession ; and his disapj:.>i:M!)i(ni imiy i)c ja?ily conceived, when hewastoM, on waitmL^ ;i])on Mr. Dunn, who was tbcn President (thoGovcnor and Lieutenant Governor beini; abseat fr*;m tfie eob)ny), that the Canadian c^overnr.unt Iiacl 7:.>f (in acre of clear land to give hiui : trratlhey r/.inld neither accom- modate bini with a waieitauio Un' his machinery and other property, no. with houses for bis people. The dispatches which 1 brought with him, he was told, would bj luii. ' next day before the Executive Council, who \Yould taki^- his case into consideration. Mr. C. stiongl)' x 'presented to Mr. Dunn the neces-iity cf his hav nga farm, or some place to take his family ..iid people to im- mediately ; otherwise, to sLiy in Quebec during a long' winter, would rnni all his projects ; and very little more than airionlL was left him, before the winter would set i>i, aud prevent his people from doing »ny out- lUht work; that it was a material point of I: is une' aieut, that he should re- ceive the land immcdlatdj on his arrival, and that Mr. Rose had assured \\wj^. tiiat orders had been sent out for that pjirposc. Li a fevv' days, ti;c Executive Council decided 'li ft i I'M it i . „ J_ J";_ifi£B(W^-i;SNUIfcB*'..-# ** 480 i'lORKSEKN DIITIfUITirs. II poll tlio iiistiMulioiH scMif out by tin; Hritisli <^o- ituiiinciit : that, liuvinj»* no clear lands bcloiijiiiuj:^ (o llie croNvn wliicli they could girt? to Mr. ('uinp- bcll, tlioy did not coMroive themselves ;mthori/cd by the dispatehes, to pnrcli'tse, eouHCipieidly .Mr. C. must wait til! t/ifj/ wrote liomc, and received fresh inslrnrtions IVoiii Iiis Majesty's f»-overmnent. Ill the nic.in time, they would advance him.':iOO/. (»n account of part ot'liis expetisrs. (TMr. Campbell was astonished before, be was now thunderslrucK', and foresaw all the diilicul- ties and disasters which would inevitably follow iVom such a proceeding, lie tattcnded the Coun- cil ; waited on the President ; and, for several days, intreated and expostulated with them upon «uch a ruinous step. He detailed to them the in- jury he must unavoidably sustain from not having liis lands, and being obliged to remain upwards of six months at Quebec ; that his finances would be exhausted, his people corrupted and desert from I. is service ; and his plans, wliich had in view the public good as well as his own, would be totally frustrated. All his remonstrances were, bowcver, ineflec- tnal ; and he was constrained to wait the arrival of further instructions from England. During the winter our men were all corrupted by crimps for the shipping, and recruiting scrjeants for the army ; by pettyfogging lawyers, and a herd of people who wished to decoy them away into their «REAT L0I.SK5, 481 sflcc- ival I ring own service. IW tlie sprinj:^, not oik* out of tlic t'i^likicii, Nvlioin Nve brought from Scotland, re- mained in our employ ; and wilh tlicni Mr. C lo.it upwards ofliOO/. which lie had been obliged to advance them to pay oil' debts and supply tbeni with necessaries for their voyage. Hut the greatest loss, was tJic S'.'i'viccs of so many people, which were invaluable in acounlr) where labour in so s(;arce. In the month of March lie was put into posses- sion of a farm of (iO acres of clear laiulj instead of JjO, on the seii^-niory of llecancoiir, opposite; the town of Three Jlivers. [>ut bv this time he Jjad lost all hi^ people, and his linauces were j;reatly impaired by livinj^ so many months in <4)iiebec, w here [)rovisions are considerably dearer than up (he country. Notwithstanding these se- rious losses jind impediments, he was determined, if possible, to fullil his engagement with the J5oard of Trade ; as he well knew, that the ene- mies to (he culture of hemp in Canada, would not fail to take advaritage of his failure, and repre- sent him in the worst light, for the purpose of in- creasing the prejudices of the Canadians, acid ex- hausting the patience of the British Government' I!e therefore hired several of t!ic best French far- mers, and engaged some European and Americaa work people at a very heavy expense, to cultivate his grounds, and erect his mill, hemp stecpers, and other works necessary for manufacturing the VOL. X, 2 I 1 V i I , i1 ;;!» .r:.«is^«^ 482 BAn SEED. hemp for market, after which he imm< diately began his operations. The seed svhich had been sent out for Mr. C. by the Board of Trade the preceding year, to the amount of 1000^ was goodfoniothing, having been Jciln-dricd, and its vegetative pvopcrlics cntirclj/ dcsfrojjed. The Curnidian government \vas (here- fore obliged to send to the United States for seed;, winch, o'idng to some uiisinunagemcnt, iWd not ar- rive in Canada till the end of J/z/zc, though it should have been sown earlij in jMoji, for ^liich he had prepared his gronnda, and been waiting upwards of six weeks. Tiius was the most valu- able part of his time totally lost ; and when tlie seed did arrive, the vvea^^'-:**^. 4Si APPMCATION TO THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL. N M 'I ihe 01 (ler of tlie Executive Council, exaraiiied Mr, CanipbelTs lands and buildings at Becancour, and ■were satisfied that he bad exerted himself to the iitrnoi-t, to introduce the culture of hemp among the Canadians ; that instead of 25 acres, which his agreement demanded, he had sown 58^ acreS;, entirelj in hemp, in 1807, and had erected barns for housing, ^at» for steeping, and was then building a 'arge rail! for beating and manufactur- ing the hemp. This certificate, when signed by the Governor and Council, and sent to England, was to release Mr. Campbell from his bond with the British go- vernment : but I have not heard that it has yet arrived. From the period of his interview with Sir James Craig in the spring of ISOS, to tfie month of September following, when I left Ca- nada, Mr. C. continued to carry on the cultiva- tion of hemp without any assistance from govern- ment, except his salary, which has been regularly paid him. I did hear that the Canadian govern- Hieut had received instructions to advance him 500/. on account of the losses' he had sustained^ but he has not yet received it. It seems, how- ever, that they were not inclined to desert him al- together, for in the month of June the Executive Council purchased another farm for him at I]e- cancour, to make up the IbO acres of clear land ; but they would not put him in possession of it, till he produced some manufacfurcd hcmi*. •"mmtt ■•■m ■ HEMP BEATING MILL COMPLETE. 485 This I am in hopes he will yet be able to ac- complish ; for, while I remained at Quebec, pre- vious to my departure for England, I was happy to find, by an advertisement in the Gazette, ad- dressed to the cultivators of hemp, and farmers in Lower Canada, that he had completed his nihil, and would be ready, by the first of September, to receive and prepare hemp for market on reason- able terms ; and that those who were desirous of becoming acquainted with the different processes of cultivating and preparing hemp, might, on ap- plication to him, be instructed gratis, at the pro- per seasons of the year. During thig short narrative of my uncle's pro- ceedings in Canada, I have abstained from notic- ing many vexatious obstacles of a minor consider- ation, but which also tended to increase the dif- ficulties, and retard the progress of his plans. As the object which he had in view was of so much importance, not only to himself, but to the public ; and, as he had pledged himself to the Board of Trade, to accomplish what they had been so many years in vain endeavouring to bring about, it is natural to suppose that he sufficiently appreciated the arduousness of his situation. On his success depended, as he had been led to sup- pose, the removal of the prejudices of the Cana- dian people ; if he failed, they would be rivetted still stronger. These reasons have alone pre- vented hiin from giving up a concern in which If t, 1: I ^ I ' i< i js&iim'-'mmhoro existed, and does yet exist, tor the purpose of counlcracting the wise and beneficial endeavours of the l^ritish government, to inliodLiee the culture and manupActure of hemp in Canada. I sliouid have made this assertion with much dillldence, had not seve- ral extraordinary circumstances concurred to strengthen my opinion, and to put my suspi- cions beyond a doubt. About a week after our arrival in Canada, I met a friend of mine at Quebec, whom I had not seen for many years, nor had the least ex- pectation of meeting in that country, as I under- stood he wa in rii"nltiire and coinnxMi;!' ol'our own colonies, i;* nn»r<; U(lv'anlaj.»;eoun thiii to enconiai;e those of a foiei'j;n counlrv ; and that procuriiij;' our inoi^t essential articles from our own people, is safer than (rusting* to the precarious will of an K 49C} A NATIONAL CONCERN. but they sufficiently prove that the cultivalion of hemp in our own dominions^ is not an idle speculation ; and that, with adequate encou- ra^^ement we might, in a few years, become totally independent of the northern powers, for our supplies of that very important article. END OF VOL. I. <<« I Gillet and Sin, Frinters, Cro-rvn-i^utt, Ficet-stxd, Londin, Itivation an idle encou- becoiiie ers, for jryrn^^ "X V. w II \i I r X' T s\ ^ z,,,,.,^/ , v^. // •'^^.-A.^ ,i^^. t.//'*^ 7 /., i 7../'"'"'^ %^ r^^^-"..'' 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