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Les cartes, plenches. tableaux, etc , peuvent Atre fiimte A des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA. il est filmA A partir de i'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut an bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Las diagrammes suivants illustrent ia mAthode. rrata o lalura, lA H 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^1 V iP'UiDPfTITiSlPirjS^Clil.O ) XAJ-^' .^IJUAf o/ ,JM/'€>M7^r^. t ^anfrf/^/.J ''fVf . .i h":*& 1! ^^i> THE / c f . l.ONnCN, ■sssrssmmm ji4A^_ai!- "i-i '1"^' ^ fr 1 » A '? .r. f /A fl^JTKrsi'l •"•t**,! n' I« •linn )''• JT '-."yK'tcr '«ii'»* NARRATIVE OF CAPT. COOK'S VOYAGES r* '■ ROUND THE WORLD. tun/ VOYAGES may be considered aa ooo of the greAt sources of useful and tinteresUng knowledge. They qfier an ample field for the. attention of readers, aqd. affbcd a rich fiind of pleaaore to those who delight in apedding their laisvre hours in rational eiyoyments, uih truM ^ ktiiMMf Pistingtushed as thia countcy ia (at. its able navigatort* it acquires no inconsiderable accession of &me i^>the name pf Qp^k, whose yoyagea< we purpose to detail. He 'Was ^( \mfo^^9 origin, i^nd served as an apprentice to the aeaier* YipOj jn the poal trade. Afterwards entering as. a volun^ teer into the navy, he became noticed by Captain (aftert jwmrdB Sis Hugh) . Falliaer^ iii whose ship, he served-* Captain C«K)kii| Allowed to have been one of the ableat pirooin* »Bi,y}ga^n this or an^ other oonntry ever produced. And his death by the savages of Owhyhce, whUe prosecuting his thund.toyage round the worlds must be universally dejdored. JHis attention to the health of his ship's company^ wherehj thcjT wcare pseserved from that fatal ihalady th# aoorvy^ •which,heretof«re used to makeaueh ravages among aMmeu An long voyages, has been moat beneficial to mankisd. 1 B fiRf^n It COOK*! VOTAOBS The Toyftge which is the subject of our present nar- rative, was undertaken by order of King George III. for the improYement of science. It having been calculated that the planet Venns would pass over the sun^s disk in 1700, the Royal Society presented a memorial to government, requesting that a vessel might be fitted out to convey proper persons to observe the transit in the other hemisphere. Captain Cook, then a lieutenant in the navy, was selected, and a vessel fitted up with every requisite for barter and for making discoveries in the South Seas. Mr. Banks, who was afterwards created a baronet, and chosen President of the Royal Society, possessed of an opulent fortune and a friend of science, embarked with Captain Cook, animated by the wish of enlarging the bounds of, knowledge. Dr. Solander, *a learned Swede, who had studied under Linnaeus, and held a situation in the British Museum, also joined the expedition. Mr. Banks also took two draughtsmen with him, and a secretary and four lervx'^^ at his own individual charge. Several other gentl . of eminence in different sciences also were ap- pointed ; and altogether such an assemblage of talent was embarked in this expedition as gave promise of most salu- iray consequences. It was from the knowledge obtained of New Holland by these Voyages that a settlement has since been made for transporting convicts and which now rises into importance as a colony. It was these Voyages also which gave rise to the settlement of Missionaries for the propagation of the glad tidings of the gospel at Otaheite and other islands of the South Seas, and which is now spreading the blessings of civilized life among them. . A vessel of 370 tons, which had been built for the coal trade, was appointed, having on board 10 carriage and 43 swivel guns, with abundance of ammunition. This Tea- sel was; well supplied with articles for barter with the «avage nations they expected to visit, and all manner of ROUND THE WORLD stores for so long a Toyage, and sailed from .Depiford the 80th of July 1768. At Madeira they unfortunately lost Mr. Weir the master^s mate, who in heaving the anchor fell oTerboard and was drowned. At Rio de Janeiro they took in a fresh supply of provisions and all other necessary supplies, and left that place on the 8th of December 1768. Ou the 11th they hooked a shark. It proved to be a female. When opened they took six young ones out of it, five of which were alive, and swam briskly in a tub of water, but the sixth appeared to have been dead some time. From this time they met with no material occur- rence till the 32nd, when they discovered numerous birds of the prosillaria kind, in latitude 39 deg. 87 min. south, and longitude 40 deg. 16 min. west : they also dis- covered great numbers of porpoises of a singular speciesy about 15 feet in length, and of an ash colour. On the 98rd they observed an eclipse of the moon ; and about seven o*clock in the morning, a small white cloud ap- peared in the west, from which a train of fire issued. On the 3rd of January they saw the appearance of Iand» which they mistook for Pepy*s island and bore away for it, but it was one of those deceptions which sailors eall a fog bank. On the I4th they entered the streight of X^ Maire, but were driven out again with great vi<4eDoe, the tide being against them : at length howeyer they got anchorage in a small cove, the entrance to which the captidn named St. Vincent's Bay. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks went on shore, returning about nine in the ereningy with Upwards of an hundred different plants and flowers, which none of the European botanists had taken no- tice of. 4 On the 18th they came to an anchor in twelve fathom water, upon coral rocks, before a small cove, at the dis- tance of about a mile from the shore : two d the natiTet came down upon the beach, as if they expected that lUie B2 i cook's voyages strangeri would land ; but lh there was no shelter, the ship got under sail again, and the Indians retired. The same afternoon they caine to an anchor in the bay of Qood Success. The oapuiin went on shore, aooompanied by Mr» Banks and Dr. Solander, to search for a watering place, atfd confer with the Indians; These gentlemen proceeded above one hundred yards before the captain, when two of the Indhqis that had sealed themselves, rdse Up, '«nd as a token of amity threw away a small stick whidh they had in their bands. They afterwards returned to Iheir oompanions, who Irad remained at some distance behindj and made signs to their guests to advance, whom ibey received in a friendly mamierf le retura for their civility> ieine ribbanda and beads vitee distributed auMHig them« Tbus a confidence was e8tal>U8hed,and therestof tiieBiiglisli party joined and conversed vrith them in an ataiicable nMnllb^. Capt. Oouk and his friendi todk three of them Id'tiie^p, clothed them and gave them provisluna, |nii% of wfaldi they carried on shore. 'They refuied io drink i^ilf cir brandy, latinating by signa (bat it burned their 4lhtN>kiiB>. None of these people exceeded five feet ten iktiC^esin h^ght, but their bddiCB appeared large and fobutft, though their liiubs wdre smaH. They had broad flkt flilBea> high dheekf/ noies ineliniiig ta' flatness, wide MMCtUii small black eyes^ large mouths, an^allf bMindif- Settent ieelh, add straighit blatek hiir^ falling down oTer tUMf' ears atad foreheads, the latter being • genehiUy eriiieaM -with VrOwH and Hd paintsj Hud like all the 4tli[tiMl natives of AmMoa, they were beardleae. Their IpanueUta were thjs bkins of seds and guaoiooeB^' wfaioh 'WfupffiMl Iround ^elr tfbeulderBi < The luen likewiee ' wore on their heads a bunch of yarn, which fell over their ibteheli^ and was tied behind with the ethle#aior tendons ef 'eoito linimalsi Afany of both . atees ; were painted on dfllbreut patia of their bodiea' vridi. red> white> end brown MtoMrs^ and bad also three or; four perpcndioular Hues v», ^) 't(P IJe. # f w r ♦ * #' M' \> 1^ •> ^ ^•^ .3^ W" ROUND TBR WORLD. '9 pricked aep«bM their checks and nosei. Thv wmnes hmid a smaU striiig tied loaad each anclcy and eadi wore a flap of skin fiustened rtMwd the middle. They curied their ployef iflg :■ M fteto Vttithi»|R#i|ither the WMi thick |>t« MM diicq^Mirtefi' A.6r^)^ hut. ]^^B«Mika: owd^tijitiid thegr; ciuioi danci^^ir^ib«^l!ti Mw fihoii^ jut fg rjB iii Mp it. BMgkilfi. to *»;i«^i6.|;ilt$^. dtf ' Mitk^ittliQii ;y^|Li; peraJHlHftM^wiii^^lteHlllitf fji'mnit tirtw^ intreaiies) he Jay ddWB amideltlia MiOfw, and it wa« with diik}«Ugr.%yiFA|»i him^iwdiLe. One Kf tbe bhicfc aervaiili > liow«rer Hii |iil^ were, « jpl whoeTer slpni ie|iQ#4 aooordinglli Kinidddii, the^ ioold 6 C00K*8 YOYAGBf beeanse also weary and/aint, and was on the poititof foUow were* sent to reli«v« the companions of Hicbmond^ Mirned without having been able to find them, and what rendered the mortification still greater was, that a' bottle of rum (the whole stock of the party) oould not be found, and was judged to have been left with one of the fhree Ihal were missing. ^* AlSidl'of snow con^nuing for ne$r two hojurs, thef§ now remained no hopes of seeing the three absent persons again. About twel^ b*clook, however, a great shouting w(w heard ROUND THE WORLD. at a diitance, when Mr. Banks and four others went forth and met the sailor, who had just strength enough left to walk. He was immediately sent to the fire, and they pro- ceeded to seek for the other two. They found Richmond upon his legs, but incapable of moving them ; the other black was lying senseless upon the ground. AH en- deavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless ; nor was It possible to kindle one upon the spot on account of the snow that had fallen, and was falling, so that there re- mained no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, after they had made them a bed of the boughs of some trees, and covered them over thick with the same. As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move these poor blacks to the fire, and had beien exposed to the cold for near an hour and a half in the attempt, some of them began to be afUe- ted in the same manner as those whom they went «o re- lieve. Briscoe, another servant of Mr. Banks, in parti- ticular, began to lose his sensibility. At last they reached the fire, and passed the night in a very disagreeable man- ner. The party that set out from the ship consisted uf twelve ; two were already judged to be dead^ and it was doubtful whether the third would be able to return on board ; Mr. Buchan, a fourth, seemed to be threatened with a retutrn df his fits. The ship they reckoned at a long day*s journey, through an. unfrequented wood, in which they might proba- bly be bewildered tiil night, and, having been equipped only for a joLrney of a few hours, they had not a sufficiency of provisions left to afford the company a single meal. At daybreak on the 17th nothing presented itself to view but snow, and the blasts of wind were so frequent and violent, that their journey seemed to be impractioable. However, about six in the morning, they had a dawn of hope by discovering, thesun, through the oloudi^ which gra- dually diminished. Before they set out, messeogen irere 8 COOK'8 VOTAOBS diflpAtohed to (he unhappy negroes' ; v4io returned iriUi the" melabOholy aews of their deatli. A breeae Kpringing up abouteighto?cIook,«dded to the inftuence ofthe aun, began todlear the dur^ and hunger prevftUing:Overev«ry othsr con- aideraiion, induced tbem to set forw4ird dn their jeUfuey about ten in the morning. To their great aatonishment and aatiafiuttion, in about three hours they found. iheoaselyeB on the shore, and niueh nearer to the ship then their most sanguiner tii^ctatiens oould have suggested, and found that) instead 'Of'aaceflding the hill in a direct line, they had HM^e a oirde almost round the country. On their return^ they received such congratulations from those on board, as eaiiimoie.ea«ily be imagined than expressed. ^ ■■' i (On the SOthiBIr. Banks and Dr. Solander again weoi on ahorie and ;eoIIeeted a number of shells and plants, hitherto tttiknown. After dinnbr, they went to Tisit an Indian towii^ about two miles up the country, situated on a small ilull» oiwcr (Shaded with wood,, and consisting of abeut a dosenliutSy Oedstructed without art or regularity, composed of a few p«kis, inclioing to each other: in the shape of a sugar-loaf, which were covered on the weather side with grass and bpug^ and on the other side, a ^ace was left open, which fl^nrisdaionce for » fire*place and a door A little /grass imy^ for i ^eds and chairs ; tboir iitcffsils were a. basket for lUie hand, a satchel tohaiig upoii jUie back, apd a bladder of ,water>out of which they drank through a hole near the top. -Thia town was inhabited by a tribe of about fifty meiiK wo- puiQ and children. Their bows and arrows were construct- ed with v^eatness and ingenuity, being made of wood highly polished,, and the point, which waSiOltber glass or flint, veiry skilfully fitted. These Utter substances were obsenr- edtamong them un wrought, as, also cloth, rii^ buttons, &c. firani^whenoe it was conciuded that they spmetimes t^yeUed |o tbor northward, > as no ship, for years pasty bad touched Mtthispturt of Terra del FuAgo. They did not shew any •uipriie nt the sig|itjof fire Mms, .bnt appeared to be wU ROOND THE WORLD. d acquainted with their use. They did not appear to have any form of govenmient, or any ideas of subordination ; but seemed as the outcasts of men ; passing their lives in^^watn-' dcring in a forlorn manaer over dreary wastes ; their ottlf food wassheU-ftsfa, which on any one spot must soonbe^x^ bausted ; nor had they the rudest implement of art, not even so much as was necessary to dress their food. Rea- der,, be thankAil to God ttiatrhe hath cast your lot in a land' where temporal comforts abound<^where education is so universal — where the knowledge of himself is so prevalent. On January the 2<^th they took their deparrttere fh>rti- Cape Hern, and the weatlier being very calm, Mr. Banks sailed in a small, boat to shoot birds, when he kitted some' sheerwaters, and som^e large albatrosses. ' The liatter proved* to be very good foodk Notwithstanding the doubling of Oapei Horn is represented ati a very dangerous course, alid it is' generally thought l^at^ passing through the streight of Ma- gellan is less perilous* yet the Endeavour doubled it vrith as little danger as she wouM the North l^oreland on^the Kent^' ish coast; the heavens werie fair^ the wind! temperate, the weather pleasant^ and being nearshore, they had a very dis* tinct view of the coast. Mr. Banks killed above six dred' yards. The beach was flat, and seemed to have no: other herbage upon it than sea weeds. The resemblance of a bow was preserved in the arch and cord forming the land, while the intermediate space was taken up by water. The arch, in general, was covered with trees of various ver- dure and different heights. This island, from the smoke that was discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and was named Bow Island. On the 10th, after a tempestuous night, the Endeavour nOUND THE WORLD. 11 came in sight of Osnaburgh Island, called by the na- tives Maitea. This island is circular, about four miles in circumference, partly rocky, and partly covered with trees. On the 11 th they made Otaheite, or as Capt. Wallis had named it. King George the Third*s Island. The calms prevented their approaching it till the morning of the 12th, when a breeze sprung up, and several canoes were seen mak- ing towards the ship. Few of them, however, would come near, and those who did could not be persuaded (o come on board. They brought with them young plantains and branches of trees, which were handed up the ship^s side, and by their desire, were stuck in conspicuous parts of the rig- ging, as tokens of peace and friendship. After this the crew purchased their commodities, consisting of cocoa-nuts bananas, bread-fruit, apples and figs, which were very ac- ceptable. They lay off and on all night, and in the morning of the 13th they entered Port Royal Harbour, in the Island of Ota- heite, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. Many of the natives came off immediately in their canoes, and brought with them bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, apples, and some hogs, which they bartered for beads and other trinkets with the ship's company. The tree which bears the (bread- fruit is about the size of a horse chesnut : its leaves are near a foot and a half in length, in shape oblong, and very much resembled those of the fig tree. The fruit is hot un- like the cantaloupe melon ; it is inclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a man*s thumb. The substance of this fruit is somewhat like that of new bread, and as white as the blanched almond. It must be roasted, and when eaten it has a sweetish taste. Amongst those who came on board the Endeavour, was an elderly man, named Owhaw, known to Mr. Gc^ and others who had visited the island with Capt. Wallis. Oiiiaw being considered by our gentlemen as a very useful man, they studied to please him, and to gratify all his wishes. c 2 u cook\ voyages l^eYeral oeoesiary rulas were now drawn up to bs observed by every pcirsoii on board for the better establishing a reg»r )ar trade with the natives. The substance of the rules mere, ** That in order to prevent quarrels and confusion, le^ery oneof the ship*8 crew should endeavour to treat the jilihqbltaiits of Otaheite with humanity, and by all iair means tpcnUivateik friendship with them. That no officer, seaman, 4Hr other pwsop, belougiug to the ship, excepting such only ^ho w garter with the natives, should trade, lor offisr to trade, for a^y Idind of prpi^sicin, fruit, or othor pi^oduice of tihe island, without having 0]|»res8 leave sotp 4«u .That no person should. eui«iexsle, tffade, pr offer to tra4e» wiith any pa^t of th9 iMp's stores : And, thai pio sort of iron, lOr any thing in^e^4rein« or finyieiPt. of deftly nr ^^r nsjer fni af tioles in jM^e «Mp> iMinl4 >>e i^en inexchanse ^r ,^y thing but provision.** These nedessary rules were sjgneU *y Ceptr PW#> f^il^m^ 9!^4fi^f tP ftm. •pn^A^s^Mr?? unce f',i When Jt^eslnp )^, properly, jp»cpred, Pn{t|, Cppkr ^. f^i^kja, find Djr. 3(4An4^r, If^t on #oce. wifj^ # pf^iy nnr 4^mn^i and their irlpi^ i^f^l4J^^n. ^^ey ;wei;e^ft- jqeive4 ^y stfU^ie h^p^i^ i>f the natives w^ nwe Mftd rev|»- ^.enciey ^hfo e^^hanged the tpjcens pf peac^ 994 ptS^r^ p .p(H\di^pt them to a spot of gronnd if )nc^ iprould bie wore .CQ^ve?>ientfor thefa to occupy, tl\an tfejit ijrl^ere they ^an^e^. I'^J^ey^Vbow took a pi^cijut pf ^bont fonr miJes thrpligh groyep (^ t|]^e bi^fi-fruit and opcoa-tree^. Intern^ngled vritii the^e ;j^ere it^e dwellings of the native^, which ppnsieted of h»$B .>vj^pmt w^l^s. In t^ course of t^eir jpuiirney they ibnn4 but few fowls or hogs, and understood ^t none of their jopndnipjtprs, npr any of the people they hB4 hitbert' sided when alive. The body lay on a bi^r, the frame of which was wood, supported by pillars about fire feet high, and covered with a mat, over which lay a white cfoth ; by its side lay a wooden mace, and towards the head two cocoa- shells ; towards the feet was a bunch of green leaves, and- small dried boughs tied together, and stuck in the ground, near which was a stone about the size of a cocoa-nut ; here were also placed a young plantain tree> and the stem of a palm-tree was stuck up on the outside of it, upon which was placed a cocoa-shell filled with water. At the side of one of the posts there hung a little bag with some roasted pieces of bread-fruit. The natives were not pleased at his approaching the body, their jealousy appearing plainly in their countenances and gestures. On the 22nd they were entertained by some of the musi- cians of the country, who performed on an instrument some- what resembling a german-flute, but the performer blew through his nostril instead of his mouth, and others accom- panied this instrument, singing only one tune. Some of the Indians brought their axes to grind and repair, most of which they had obtained from Capt. Wallis and his people in the Dolphin ; but a French one occasioned a littl«^ (pecu- lation, and at length, upon inquiry, it appeared to have been left here by M . de Bougainville. On the 2dth, several knives being missed, Mr. Banks, who lost his among the rest, accused Tubourai Tamaide of having taken it, which, ar he was innocent, occasioned him a great deal of unmerited anxiety. He made signs, while the tears started Trom his eyes, that if he had been guilty of such a Uieft as was imputed to him, he would suf- fer his throat tonle cut. But though he was innocent, it was plain that the natives in general were very much addic- ted to thieving, as though Mr. Banks's servant had mislaid the knife in question, yet the rest were produced in a rag, by one of the natives. L_ ROUND THI WORLD. 17 t uras ad re-' ime of b high, th; by oocoa- 19, and ground, :; here n of a ich was of one roasted 1 at his ainly in e musi- it some- sr blew acoom- e of the ost of people specu- ebeen tanks, imaide bioned signs, been Id suf- mt, it iddic- lislaid igjby Oa th« S6th the gtins, wbiehwere six swirels, were mount- ed on thkefort, which caused ike iodiaas great trouble, and ■cnreral of the fiahenven reaoved, fearing, notwithstanding all the marks of friendship that had been shewn to them by our peof^e, they should be fired at from the fort. The next day, Tubourai Tamaide canM with three women, Mid a friend, to dine at the fort, and after dinner returned to his own house. In a short time after be came back to complain of a butcher, who had threatened to cut his wi£Es*s throat, be- cause she would not barter a stone hateliet for a nail. It appearing clearly that the offender had infringed one of the rules enjoined by the captain for trading with the natiyes, he was flogged on board in their sigut. When the first stroke had been given, they interfered, and intreated that the culprit might be untied ; but when this favour was denied them, they showed strong signs of concern, and burst into tears. Mr. Molineux, master of the Endeavour, seeing a woman whose name was Oberea, he declaimed she was the same per- son, whom he judged to be the queen of the island, when he was there with Capt. Wallis. The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, of whom so much had been said by the crew of the Dolphin, and in the account given of her by the captain. With regard to her person, she was tall, and rather large made ; she was about forty years of age, her skin white, and her eyes had great expression in them ; she liad been handsome, but her beauiy was now upon the decline. An offer was made to conduct her on board the ship, which she accepted. Many presents wee made her, particularly a child's doll, which she viewed very atten- tively. Capt. Cook accompanied her on shore, and when ^ey landed, she presented him with a hog and some plaintains, in return for his presents, which were carried to the fort in procession,. Oberea and the captain bringing up the rear. In the way they met Tootafaah, who, though not king, seem- ed toi be aA this time invested with sovereign authority. He c. v. I. D COOK S TOTAOBS I ! ' j ,: no sooner saw the doll, than he discovered strong^ symptoms of jealousy, nor could any method be found of conciliating his friendship, but that of complimenting him with a baby also. On the dOth, Tomio came in great haste to our tents, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, told him, that Tubourai Tamaide was dying, owing to somewhat that had been given him by our people, and intreated him instantly to go to him. Accordingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very sick. He had been vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf, which they said contained some of the poison. Mr. Banks having examined the leaf, found it was tobacco, which the Indian had begged of some of the ship*s company. He ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which soon restored bim. On the 1st of May a chief dined with us who had dined on board some time before, accompanied by some of his wo- men who used to f led him. He now came alone ; at dinner, the captain helped him to some victuals, supposing that he would have dispensed with the ceremony of being fed ; but the chief never attempted to eat, and would have gone with- out his dinner, if one of the servants had not fed him. They took the astronomical quadrant and other instruments on shore that afternoon ; and when they wanted to make use of the quadrant the next day, it was missing, a matter the more extraordinary, as acentinel had been placed the whole night within a few yards of the place where it was deposited, and the instrument had never been taken out of the case. A strict search was made in and about the fort, r i a con- siderable reward offered in order to obtain it again ; but all proving fruitless, J\lr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green and some other gentlemen, set out for the woods, where they thought they might probably get some tidings of what was stolen. In their way, they met with Tubourai Tamaide and some of the natives, who was made to understand that tliey had lost the quadrant, and that as some of his coiiatry- ROUND THE WORLD. 19 men must have taken it, they insisted upon being shewn the place where it was concealed. After some inquiry, the instrument was recovered, and it was found that it had re- ceived no real injury, though it had been taken to pieces. When they returned 'n the evening, they were much sur- prised to find Totahah under confinement in the fort, while a crowd of the natives surrounded the gate, discovering marks of the greatest anxiety for the fate of their chief. The occasion of his detention originated from the conduct of the Indians ; who, alarmed at Capt. Cook^s having gone up the country with an armed party, most of the natives left the fort that evening, and one of the canoes attempted to quit the bay. The lieutenant who commanded on board the ship, having it in charge not to suffer any canoe to depart, sent a boat to detain her, but she no sooner approached than the Indians jumped into tlie sea. Tootahah being of the number, was taken and sent to the ofhcer who commanded at the fort, who concluded he should do right to detain him prisoner, while the poor chief thought of nothing but being put to death, till Capt. Cook caused him to be liberated, to the great joy of his countrymen. But the natives were still inclined tp bear this affair in their minds, and as a proof of it, they neglected to supply the market with provisions. Mr. Banks walking into the woods, heard great murmur- ings concerning the treatment of Tootahah, who, as they said, had been ill used and beaten, though Mr. Banks declared he was quite ignorant of his having ;received such treatment. The chief now sent for such hogs to be restored as he had left behind him, at, first intending them as a present, which by this time, perhaps, he did not think the English had me- rited ; but they refused to send them unless he would comie himself, thinking by. an interview , to promote a leconoilia- tion *,, and this they were the more desirous of, as they were told it would be a fortnight before he would pay them a ywt'i,. .,,.-. . - ' , On the 3rd', provisions were extremely scarce, as tiM D 2 1 I I I ■) ii n t ' I to COOK S VOYAGES markets continued to be ill supplied on the account already mentioned ; and it was not without difficulty, that Mr. Banks got a few baskets of bread-fruit from Tubourai Tamaide* -• Tootabab on the 4th sent for an axe and a shirt in return for the hogs, which were accordingly promised to be brought him the next day. He sent again early in the morning of the 5tb, and Mr. Banks and the doctor set out in the pin- nace, taking with them one of Tootahah*s people and soon reached Eparre, where he resided. When they arrived, they found a number of natives waiting for them on shore, and were conducted directly to the chief, the people, not- withstanding the offence they bad so lately taken, shouting out in their language, " Tootahah is ypur friend." He was sitting under a tree, and some old men were standing about him. Having made signs for them to be seated, he asked for the &xe, which was then given him by Capt. Cook, as also the shirt and a broad-cloth garment, which latter he put on, and was well pleased with the present. They were Afterwards conducted to a large court yard on one side of the chiePs house, where they were entertained with wrestling after the manner of the country. He himself sat at the up- per end of the area, having several of his principal men on each iideof him, who a|»peared as judges of the sport, which was as follows : Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many timple ceremoniesof challenging, they engaged, each endea- 'vearingto throw his antagonistby mere strength : they seized fadi other by the hand, or other parts of the body; grapling, tnthmitthe least art, till one, by having a greater hold, or stronger muscular fotce, threw his antagonist on his bade. The conquest was applauded by the old men witii a few words repeated in a kind of tune, and with three bmsas. Aflsr one engagement another sueeceded : if the combatants eouM not throw each oAer in the space of a minute, they parted, either by consent, or the intervention of their friends. A man with a stick officiated as master of the cersmoiiissy KOUND THB WORLD. '^RB keeping order among the people, and those of them who pressed forward he struck with his stick very smartly. Dur- ing these athletic sports, another party of men performed a danoe, for the space of a minute, but neither of these parties took the least notice of each other, their attention being wholly fixed on their own endearours to please and con- quer. At the eondusion tsi this entertainment, not unlike the wrestling-matches of remote antiquity, they were told, that some hogs and a large quantity of bread-fruit were pre- paring for dinner, but their host, instead of setting his two hogs before them, ordered one of them to be carried into the boat. Here they thought to hare enjoyed their good cheer, but at the desire of Tubourai Tamaide tliey pro- ceeded as far as the ship : howcTer, they were at last gratified with the promised repast, of which the chief and his friends had a liberal share. This friendly reconciliation operated on the natives like a charm : for it was no sooner known that Tubourai Tamaide was on board, than proyi- sions of all kinds were brought to the fort in great plenty. By this time our forge was set up and at woric, which afforded a new subject of admiration to the Indians, and to Capt. Cook an additional opportunity of conferring obliga- tions on them, by permitting the smith, in his leisure hours^ to convert the old iron, which they were supposed to hate procured from the Dolphin, into various kinds of tools. ^ On the 10th they sowed, in ground properly prepared, seeds of melons and other plants, but none of them came up except mustard. Mh Banks thought the seeds were spoil- ed by a total exclusion of fresh air, they having all been put into small bottles, and sealed up with rosin. They learnt this day, the Indians called the island Otaheite, tht same by which it is now distinguished. They were not lo for- tunate in endeavouring to teach them their names ; and, after repeated attempts to pronounee them, which proved fruitless, they had recourse to new ones of their own iiven- 32 COOK S VOYAOBS ft II I I I! I tion. Capt. Cooke they named Toote ; Mr. Hicks, Hete, The master they called Boba, from his christian name Robert ; Mr. Gore, Toarro ; Dr. Solander, Toano ; Mr. Banks, Tapane ; and so on for the greater part of the ship*s crew. These perhaps were significant words in their own language ; and we are inclined to this opinion, because Mr. Monkhouse, who commanded the party that shot the man for stealing a musket, they named Matte, which was not merely an arbitrary sound, but in their language it signified dead. On the I3th, Tubourai Tamaide ofiended Mr. Banks by snatching his gun out of his hand, and firing it in the air ; an action 'which much surprised that gentleman, as he imagined him totally ignorant of the use of it. As the igno- rance of the people of those countries in regard to this par- ticular, must cause them to fear their guests, Mr. Banks made a serious matter of what, probably, the other meant only as a joke ; and, not without threats, gave him to un- derstand, that to touch the piece was a high insult. The offender made no reply, but set out immediately, with his family, for Eparre. Great inconvenience being appre- hended from this man, and as in many instances he had been particularly useful, Mr. Banks determmed to follow him.. He set out the same evening from the fort, accom- panied by Mr. Molineux, and found him in the middle of a large circle of people, the picture of extreme grief, which was also visible in the countenances of his attendants. One of the women expressed her trouble in the same manner as Terapo had done upon another occasion. Mr. Banks lost no time in endeavouring to put an end to all animosity. The chief was soothed into confidence, and a double canoe being got ready, they all returned together to the fort before supper; and as a pledge of sincere reconciliation, both he and his wife passed the night in the tent of Mr. Bsyiks. On Monday the 15th, Tubourai Tamaide was detected in a theft ; Mr. Banks had a good opinion of this chief^ but \Ml) ■ii lin lut ROUND TUB WOKLD. a basket of nails, left in the corner of tlie tent, proved irre- sistible. He confessed the fact of having stolen four nails, but when restitution was demanded, Tamaide said the nails were at Eparre. High words passed, and the Indian pro- duced one of the nails, and was to be forgiven on restoring the rest ; but his virtue was not equal to the task, and he withdrew himself as usual, when he had committed an offence. "^ On the 35th, Mr. Banks seeing Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio at the tent for the first time since the former had been detected in stealing the nails, he endeavoured to persuade him to restore them, but all his efforts were in vain. As the gentlemen treated him witii a reserve and coolness which he could not but perceive, his stay was short, and he departed in a very abrupt manner ; nor could the surgeon persuade him to effect a reconciliation by bringing the nails. On the 27th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Capt. Cook, and some others, set out in the pinnace to visit Tootahah, who had again removed to a place called Atahouro, six miles from his last abode ; and not being able to go half way thither in a boat, it was almost evening before they arrived. Having qiade presents in due form, consisting of a yellow stuff petticoat, and other trifling articles, they were invited to supper, and to pass the night there. The party consisted of six only ; but the place was crowded with a greater num- ber than the houses and canoes could contain. Among the guests was Oberea, with her train of attendants. Mr. Banks having accepted of a lodging in Oberea^s canoe, left his companions in order to retire to rest. Oberea had the charge of his clothes ; but notwithstanding her care they were stolen, as were also his pistols, his powder born, and several other things out of his waistcoat pockets. An alarm was given to Tootahah in the next canoe, who went with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches and waistcoat on, and his musket uncharged. They soon returned, but without success, and Mr. Banks } \ I i :m tn .m OOOK^i TOTAOIt • tbottght proper to pot up ^rith the Iom at present, and he then arose to go and find his eompanions. He found the hut where Capt Cook and three other gentlemen kj, and they told him that they had lost their stockings and jackets. In eflect Dr. Solander, who joined them the next morning, was the only one that escaped being robbed, and he had slept at a house that was a mile distant. Preparations were now made for viewing the tranut of Venus, and two parties were sent out to make observations from difierent spots, that in case of failing at Otaheite, they might succeed elsewhere. They employed themseWes in preparing their instruments, and instructing those gentle- men in the use of them who were to go out; and, on Thursday the first of June, they sent the long boat with Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse (the two observers) and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks, with proper instruments to Eimayo. Others were sent to find out a spot that might answer the purpose, at a convenient distance from their principal station. The party that went toward Eimayo, after rowing the greater part of the night, having hailed a canoe, were in- formed of a place by the Indians, which was judged proper for their observatory, where they fixed their tents. It was a rock that arose out of the water about 140 yards from the shore. Saturday the 3d (the day of the transit) Mr. Banks, as soon as it was light, left them in order to go and get fresh provisions on the island. This gentleman had the satisfac- tipn to see the sun rise without a cloud. The king, whose name was Tarrao, came to pay him a visit, and brought with him Nuna bis sbter. As it wfs customary for the people to be seated at their conferences, Mr. Banks spread bis turbap of Indian cloth, which he wore as a hat, upon the ground, and they all sat down. Then a hog and a dog, sone cocoa- nuts, and bread-finiit were brought, being tjbe king*s pre^ ^^t ; and Mr. Banks sent for an adze, a shirt, and somt HOUND TUB WORLD. t4 beads, which his majesty received with apparent satisfac- tion. The king, liis sister, and three beautiful young wo- men their attendants, accompanied Mr. Banlcs to the ob- servatory, where he shewed them the transit of Venus, when that planet was upon the sun, and acquainted them, that to view it in that situation was the cause of his taking a voyage to those remote parts. Both the parties that were sent out to make observations on the transit, met with good success, though they differed more than might have been expected in tlieir account of the contact. Mr. Greenes ac- count was as follows : MORNING. Hours, Min. Seo. The first external contact, or appearance of Venus on the sun 25 4 The first internal contact, or total immersion 9 44 4 AFTERNOON. The second internal contact, or beginning of the emersion 3 14 8 The second external contact, or total emersion 3 32 10 Latitude of the observatory, I?*' 29' 15". Longitude, 140° 32' 30" W. of Greenwich. While the gentlemen and officers were busied in viewing the transit, some of the ship^s company broke into the store- room, and stole a quantity of spike-nails. After a strict search the thief was found out ; he was ordered to receive two dozen lashes, by way of example. On the 4th the two parties sent out to observe the transit were absent; on which account they deferred keeping His Majesty's birth-day to the next day, the 5th, when it was celebrated, and several of the Indian chiefs partook of the entertainment, and drank His Majesty^s health by the name of Kihiargo, the nearest imitation they could produce of King George. The ceremony of burying their dead was performed on the 10th, and Mr. Banks was so desirous of being present, that he agreed to take a part in it, being informed that he could not be a spectator on any other condition. He went c. v. 2. £ 90 COOK* 8 tOYAOBS acoordioglj to the place where the body was deposited, and was met by tlie relations of the deceased, and other persons. Tubourai Tamaide was the principal mourner, whose dress was whimsical, though not altogether ungraceful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European dress, and had no other covering than a small piece of cloth that was tied round his middle ; his body was blacked over with charcoal and water, as were the bodies of several others, and among them some females, who were no more covered than him- self. The chief mourner uttered a prayer, when he approached the body, and repeated the words as he came up to his own house. The mourners proceeded along the shore, crossed the river, then entered the woods, passing several houses, which became immediateljf uninhabited, and during the rest of the procession, which continued for near half an hour, not an Indian was visible. Mr. Banks filled an office that they called Nineveh, and there were two others in the same character. When none of the other natives were to be seen, they approached the chief mourner, saying Imatata ; :then those who had assisted at the ceremony bathed in the river, and resumed their former dress. On the 12th, complaint was made that the Indians had lost some of their bows and arrows, and strings of plaited hair ; the affair was inquired into, and being well attested, the offenders received each two dozen lashes. . On the 14th, in the night, an iron coal -rake for the oven was stolen ; and many other things at times having been conveyed away, the captain judged it of consequence to put an end to such practices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He had given strict orders that the centihels should not fire upon the Indians, even if they were detected in the fact; but many depredations determined him to make reprisals. About twenty-seven of their double canoes with sails were just arrived, containing cargoes of fish ; these the captain seized, and then gave notice that unless the rake, and all the other things that had been stolen. .tr,y ROUND THE WORLD. 27 Mrere retarned, the vessels should be burnt. This menace produced no other effect than the restitution of the rake. The captain however thought (it to give up the cargoes, as the natives were in great want of them. About this time another event had nearly embroiled them with the Indians. The captain having sent a boat on shore to get ballast, the officer not meeting with what he wanted, began to pull down one of the mansions of the dead, which was opposed by the islanders. This was the only instance in which they offered to oppose us, except in the affair of the fort, which has been related. On the 19th, in the evening, while the canoes were still detained, Oberea and several of her attendants paid the gentlemen a visit. She came from Tootahah*8 palace, in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog ; but not a single article of the things that had been stolen. Tupia undertook to kill and dress the dog, which he did by making a hole in the ground and baking it. It was esteemed a very good dish* Oh the 8 1st, they were visited by many of the natives, vrho brought with them various presents. Among the rest was a chief, named Oamo. He had a boy and a young woman with Imn. The former was carried on a man*s back, which was considered as a piece of state. Oberea and some of the Indians went from the fort to meet them, bare-headed, and uncovered as low as the waist, which the English judged to be marks of respect usually shewn to persons of hig^ rank. When Oamo entered the tent, the young woman, though seemingly very curious, could not be prevailed upon to ai^ompany him. The youth was introduced by Dc So" lander^ but as soon as the Indians saw him, they took care to have him sent out. >i^^ ,i'ity ni Curosity being raised by these cireumstanoes, they made inquiry concerning the strangers, and were informed, ihtA Oama was the kusband of Oberea, but that by mutual coii*- sent they had been for a considerable time separated, and E 2 88 GOOK*S VOYAGES the boy and girl were their children. The former wai called Terridiri : he was heir apparent to the sovereignty of the islands, and when he attained the proper age, was to marry his sister. Oaroo was yery inquisitive, asking a number of questions concerning the English, by which he appeared to be a man of understanding and penetration. On the 33d, in the morning, one of the crew being miss- ing, they were told he was at Eparre, Tootahah^s residence in the wood, and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back. On his return, he said that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top of the bay by three men, who forced him into a canoe, after having stripped him, and conducted him to Eparre, where he received some clothes from Tootahah, who endeavoured to prev>*il on him to con- tinue there. There was reason to conclude this account true ; for the natives were no sooner acquainted with his return, than they left the fort with precipitation. i On June the 20th, early in the morning, Capt. Cook set- ting out in the pinnace with Mr. Banks, sailed to the east- ward, with a view of circumnavigating the island. Com- ing to a large bay, the English gentlemen mentioned their design of going to the other side, but their Indian guide, whose name was Titubaola, said he would not ac- company them, and also endeavoured to dissuade them from going ; observing ** That country was inhabited by people who were not subject to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all." They resolved however to put their design into execution, and on loading their pieces with ball, Titubaola ventured ^o go with them. Having rowed till it was dark, they reached a narrow isthmus which divided the island into two parts, which formed distinct governments. They landed in the district of a chief, called Maraitata, a name which signifies the burying place of men ; his father was called Pahairede, that is, a stealer of boats : the people however gave the captain a very good reception, sold them a hog for a hatchet, and furnished them with provisions* ROUND THR WORLD. IP A crowd of the natives came round the English gentle- men, amongst whom however they met only two with whom they were acquainted. They afterwards advanced till they reached a district under the government of Waheatua. They proceeded on their journeyi for a considerable way along the shore, till at last they were met by the chief, who had with him an agreeable woman, of about twenty- two years of age, who was called Toudidde. Her name was not unknown to the English, who had often heard of it ; and she was supposed to bear the same rank here as Oberea bore in the other part of the island. The parts through which they now passed, appeared to be better cultivated than any of the rest, and tlie burial places were' more in number. They were neat, and ornamented with carvings. V At about three miles distance, they found some of the natives whom they well knew, yet it was not without difficulty that they obtained a few cocoa-nuts before they departed. A little farther to the eastward they landed again, and were met by Mathiabo, a chief, with whom they were not at all acquainte(\ . He supplied them with bread- fruit and cocoa-nuts, and they purchased a hog of him for a glass-bottle, which he chose in preference to all the other articles presented before him. A turkey-cock and a goose were seen here, which were much admired by the natives, and were supposed to have been left there by Oapt. Wallis^s people. When they left the place, the chief piloted them over the shoals. In the evening they opened the bay on the north-west side of the island, and they met with a very friendly reception from the chief, whose name was Wiverou, who gave directions to some of his people to assist in dress- ing their provisions, which were very plentiful, and they supped at Wiverou*s house in company with Mathisbo. Part of the house 'was allotted for them to sleep in, and soon ufter supper they retired to rest. Mathiabo having borrowed a cloak of Mr. Banks to serve as a coverlet when he lay down, made off with it. News of the robbery was brought I 1 30 COOK S VOYAOBS thdm by one of the natives, and they set out in pursnit of Mathiabo, but had proceeded only a little wiiy before they were met by a person bringing back the cloak, which this chieC had given ap through fear. On their return they found the house entirely deserted ; and about four in the morning, the centinel gave the alarm that the boat was missing. Their situation now was ex- tremely disagreeable. The party consisting of only four, with one musket and two pocket pistols, without a spare ball or a charge of powder. After remaining a considerable time, in a state of anxiety, the boat which had been driven away by the tide, returned ; and Mi. Banks and bis com- panions had no sooner breakfasted than they took their leave and set out on their return. On Friday the 30th, tboy arrived at Otahorou, where they found tiieir old acquaintance Tootahah, who received them with great civility, and provided them a good supper^ and cottveikient lodging; and though they had been so shamefully pluindered the last time they slept with this chief, they spent tko night iu the greatest security, ncme of their clothes nor any other article being missing the next mornhig. They refiucnedl co the fort at Port Royat Harbour on the first of July^ having discovered the island, including both penin- sulas^ to hb about 100 miles in circumference. ' i After their return from this tour, they were very much in want hS bread-fruit, none of which tbcy had been able to provide tbeniselves with, as they saw but little in the couiise of their journey ; but their Indian friends coming round ihem^ soon supplied their want of provisions. < i - On thedd, Mr. Qanks made an excursion, in ordep to trace the rivsr up the valley to its source, and to remaric how far the country was inhabited along the bankr of it. He took some Indian guides with him, and after iiaving neon bowses for about six miles, they came to one whieh was said to be the last that could be met with. The master pre- sented them \ 1th cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and they pro- ROUND THE WOULD. 81 nor 'hey itoi m >und lep'to jmBrfc |nf it. was pre- pro- ceeded on their walk. la the course of their journey, they often passed through vaults formed by rocky fragments, in which, as they were told, benighted travellers sometimes took shelter. Pursuing the course of the river about six miles farther, they found it banked on both sides by rocks almost 100 feet in height, and nearly perpendicular; a way however, might be traced up these precipices, along Which their Indian guides would have conducted them, but they declined the offer, as there did not appear to be any thing at the summit which could repay them for the toil and dan- gers of ascending them. Mr. Banks sought in vain for minerals among the rocks, which were naked almost on ull sides, but no mineral substances were found. The stones every where exhibited sigu^' of having bten burnt, which was the case of all the stones that were found while they staid at Otaheite ; and both therie ^.nd in thQ neighbouring islands, . the traces of fire were evident in tlie «lay upon /tue mils* . ')i-'' ••it;siis/ ji ri>» ii'yui:'!,;} On the 4th, b. greaA quantity oif the se^ds of water-melons, o**anges, limes and other plants brought from Rio de Ja- neiro, were planted on each side of the fort, by Mr. Banks, w!ho also plentifully supplied the Indians with them, and planted many of them in the woods. Some ntielons, tbe fieeds df which had been aown cm the first artival ol the Ea^isAi at the island, grew up und flouriMied b^ore they llrftiti Tiirfh Mil hv>ioii \;r. '.) i-jfii'i'i it Uu,7.' vnlif ri\..i •ijju Preparations were now viade tp d0part. The cfarpenters being ordered to take diii^wn t e gntes and ps^Uisadoes of lihe fort, to be converted into fire-wood for the Endeavour, looe of the natives stole the staple aind book of the gate; he was pursiueid in vain, but the property was re^overeid, and re- turned by Tubourai Tamaide. ';i .: jik od Ihrntln :t )r:i Between the 8tfa and Qth, tWo young marines «fie night withdrew llieuiselves from tl^ fort, and in the mornim^ #ere not to be taet . with. Notice having been g'aeik ik» next day th«t Abe ship .would sail that or tiie ensuing; day, C&pi.04«k ■:\ 39 COOK^S VOYAGES , I began to suspect that they designed to remain on shore ; but as no means could be taken to recover them without running a risque of destroying the harmony subsisting v?ith the natives, he resolved to wait a day, in hopes of their re- turning. But as they were still missing on the 10th in the morning, an inquiry was made aftor them, when the Indians declared that they did not purpose to return, having taken refuge among the mountains, where it wes impossible for them to be discovered ; and that each of them bad taken a wife. In consequence of this, it was intimated to several of the chiefs that were in the fort with the women, among whom were Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be suffered to quit it till the deserters were produced. They did not shew any signs of fear or disc> ^- tent, but assured the capt&in that the marines should 'i unlike, the original inba*^ bitants of America, have long beards, which they wear in Yai;ion^ . shapes. Circumcision is generally practised anaong them from a motive of deai^Jiincss, and they have a term of rf)pi;o^k with; which they^ upbraid those who do, not adopt; this Cjustomr, Both sexes always eradicate the hair from thi^llt^cmrpits, and they reproached our gentlemen with w.^pjL.o^, cleanliness, for neglecting to adopt i such practice. Their,. motions are easiy and graceful, and their behaviour^ wli^n ui^iproyoked,. affable and courteous.. Contrary to the cust(0{n of, ntost other nations,, the. women; of this . couBtry< cut .tl^eirbau; short, whereas the, men weai; it Jong^ sometimes hanging loose upon their shoulders, at other times tied in a knot on (the <2i*own of the head, in which they stick the fea- th^jTs of hii;dg,pf,,v^riqus colours^ Apiece of cloth of the ROUND THE WORLD. tfo I the ttry |o a ja- I manufacture of the country, is frequently tied round the head of both sexes in the manner of a turban, and the women plait very curiously human hair into long^ strings, which be- ing folded into branches, are tied on the forehead by way of ornaments. They have a custom practised in many hot countries, of anointing their iiair with cocoa nut oil, the smell of which is not very agreeable. They stain their bodies by indenting or pricking the flesh with a small instrument of bone, cut into short teeth, which indentures they fill with a dark bine or blackish mixture, prepared from the smoke of an oily nut (burnt by thein in- stead of candles) and water. This operation, called by the natives Tattaowing, is exceedingly painful, and leaved dh indelible mark on the i^in. It is usually perforifned wheii they are about ten or twelVe years of age, and oh difTerent parts of the body : it is perfortned with an insttutnent having twenty teeth, and at each stroke blood issiiies. It \k most paihful, but both males and females At^ compi^l^^d i6 undergo the operation. They clothe themselves in cloth ^tiid mattihg of various kihds ; the first they wear in f^he, the Iktt'eir in wet weather. These are ih different fcirms, no shd^e hft- ing observed ih the pii^d^s, nor are they sewed togethfeh Th^ women of a superior class wear three or four pieceis. Otae which is of considerable length, they wrap se^brieil ti^'eS round the waist, and it falls down to the iniddle of the )bg. Two or three other short pieces, tvith a holfe cUt through iHi mici.Ite of each, are placed one on another, and iheli* li^itd^ coming through the holes, the long ends hang before and m- bihd, both sides bdn^ opi^h, by which m^ahs ih^y h&H the fi*^^ tite df their ^I'ms. The tlien'^ dre^^ is tery Sin^il^lr, di^ring ohiy in thi^ in- stance, that orie part of the g^^al-m&ni instead bf fallirig Velbi^ the kn&^s, iS brought bctv^een tH6 le^s. This dres^ I^ Mtiin by all rttnks of i^eople, the ohly distinctiofi being ([naiiijiif in the Su^ierior classr. At tiodti both dele's appeal^ aldifotii ndkfed, WestHn^ otiiy a ^ied^ of cloth (i6d t-oohd tU^ vrtJJt F2 li- m w \ i ^t tii:i itli 36 cook's voyaoes Their faces are shaded from the sun with small bonnets, made of cocoa nut leaves or matting, which they construct in a few minutes. The men sometimes wear a sort of wig of human or dog*s hair, or of cocoa-nut strings woven on a single thread and hanging down behind. Both men and women wore ear-rings on one side, consisting oi" shells, Sbjnes, berries, or small pearls ; but they soon gave the pre- ference to the beads brought -by the Endeavour's company. The boys and girls go quite naked ; the first till they are seven or eight years old, the latter till they are about five. • The natives of Otaheite seldom use their houses but to sleep in, or to avoid the rain, as they eat in the open air, under tire shade of a tree. Their clothes serve them for covering at night. There are no divisions^ or apartments ; the master and his wife repose in the middle, next the un- married females, then the unmarried men, and in fair weather the servants sleep in the open air. The houses of the chiefs, however, differ in some particulars. There are some very small, and so constructed as to be carried in canoes : all sides of them are inclosed with the leaves of the cocoa-nut : the air nevertheless penetrates. In these the chief and his wife only sleep. There are also houses which are general receptacles for the inhabitants of a dis- trict, many of them being more than 200 feet in length, 40 in breadth, and 70 or 80 feet high. They are constructed at the common expence, and have an area on one side, sur- rounded with low palisadoes ; but, like the others, without walls. The cookery consists chiefly in baking. When a chief kills a hog, which is but seldom, he divides it equally among his vassals. Dogs and. fowls are more common food. When the bread- fruit is not in season, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, &c. are substituted in its stead. They bake their bread-fruit in a manner which renders it somewhat like a mealy potatoe. Of this three dishes are made, by beating them up with bananas, plantains, or sour paste, which it called by them Mahic. .■ i ^ ROUND THE WOIIM). 37 in Sour paste is made by taking bread-fruit not thoroughly ripe, and laying it in heaps covered with leaves, by which means it ferments. The core is then taken out, and the fruit put into a hole lined with grass : it is then again covered with leaves, upon which large stones are placed ; this pro- duces a second fermentation ; after which it grows sour, without any other change for a long time. They take it from this hole as they have occasion for it, and make it into balls. It is then rolled up in plantain leaves and baked. As it will keep for some weeks, they cat it both hot and cold. Their drink is generally confined to water, or the milk of the cocoa-nut, though some of them would drink so freely of our English liquors as to become quite. intoxicated ; such instances, however, were occasioned more by ignorance than design, as they were never known to practise a debauch of this kind a second time. It was said that their chiefs sometimes became inebriated by drinking the juice of a'plant called Ava, but of this not a single instance occurred during the time they remained on the island. The chiefs eat generally alone, unless when visited by a stranger, who is permitted sometimes to be a mess-mate. They sit on the ground, and leaves of trees spread before them serve as a table-cloth. Their attendants, who are nu- merous, having placed a basket before the chiefs, containing their provisions, and cocoa-nut shells of fresh and salt water, seat themselves around them. They then wash their mouths and hands ; after which they eat a handful of bread-fruit and fish, dipt in salt water alternately, till the whole is con- sumed, taking a sip of salt water l>etween almost every morsel. The bread-fruit and fish is succeeded by a second course, consisting of either plantains or apples, which they never eat without being pared. During this time a soft fluid of paste is prepared from the bread-fruit, which th'^ey drink out of cocoa-nut shells : this concludes the meal, and they wash their hands and mouths again as at the beginning. They eat an astonishing deal of food at a meal. Mr. Banks 88 tOOK S VOYAHES and others saw one of them devour three fish of the size of a small oarp, four bread-fruits, as lar^e as a common melon, thirteen or fourteen plantains aeven inches long, and above half as big round ; to all which was added a quart of the paste, by way of drink, to digest the whole. The inhabitants of this island, though apparently fond of the pleasures of society, have yet an aversion to holding any intercourse with each other at their meals ; and they are so rigid in the observation of this custom, that even brothers and sisters have their separate baskets of provisions, and ganerally sit at a distance of some yards when they eat, with their backs to each other, and not exchanging a word during the whole time of their repast. The middle aged of superior rank go usually to sleep after dinner ; but, which is somewhat remarkable, older people are not so indolent. Music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow, constitute the greatest part of their diversions. Flutes and drums arc the only musical instruments among them^ Their drums are formed of a circular piece of wood, hollow at one end only, which is covered with the skin of a shark, and beaten with the hand instead of a stick. Their songs are extempore, and frequently in rhime, but they consist only of two lines. These couplets are often sung by way of evening amusements, between sun-set and bed-time ; during which interval they burn candles made of an oily nut) fixing them one above another upon a small stick which is run through the middle ; some of these candles will burn a long time, and afford a good light. Personal cleanliness is much esteemed among these Iti«' dians. Both sexes are particular in washing three timei a day ; when they arise, at noon, and before they go to l^est. They are also cleanly in their clothes, so that Ao disagl«6« able ^uvia are found to arise in the largest comitiunitiM. Cloth is the chief manufacture of Otaheite, and of this there are three sorts, which are made out of the bark of diflferent trees, namely, the mulberry, the bread-fruit, and ROUND THR WORLD. 39 '■i a tree which bears some resemblance to the West-Indian wild fig tree. The first of these produces the finest cloth, which is seldom worn but by those of the first rank. The next sort is made of the bread-fruit tree, and the coarsest of that which resembles the wild fig tree. This last sort, though the coarsest, is manufactured only in small quantities. The following description will suffice for the reader's infor- mation. The bark of the tree being stripped off, is soaked in water for two or three days ; they then take it out, and separate the inner bark from the external coat, by scraping it with a shell, after which it is spread out on plantain leaves, placing two or three layers over one another, care being taken to lanke it of an equal thickness in every part. In this state it continues till it is almost dry, when it adheres 80 firmly that it may be taken from the ground without breaking. After this process^ it is laid on a smooth board, and beaten with an instrument made for the purpose, of a compact heavy wood called Etoa. The infttrument is about fourteen inches long, and about seven in circinnfereDce ; is of a: qiMdrangular shape, and each of the four sides is marked with longitudinal grooves or fuiTows^ differing in this; instaiiee, that there is a regular gr::!\^tioii in the width ai.d depth of the grooves on each of^thesidte; the coarser mde:no(tcoiitainiDg more thaiL: ten. of these furrows, v^ile tbie finest is furniahied with above fifty. It is with that sider offthe ntallet whererth« groovesare deepest and widest that' they begin to beat their cloth, and proceeding regularly^ finish with that whieh has the greatest number. Bytlns; beating, the cl^th is extended in a manner simikir to the' g^dthai is formed into leaves by the hammer, and it is also^ m»rkjedi with, small channels resemUiog. those that ace visi- ble jOA .paper. Hut rather deeper ; it is m general . beat very ^ thin; when, th^y/ want it thicker than comoioiii they taketw<» or three piooes aud paste them together with a kind of glue- pr§(wed. fitoiu ;a; root called Pea. This cloth becomes ex«> 40 COOK S VOYAJSKS !• f" ceedingly white by 1)lencliing, nnd is dyed of a red, yellow, brown or black colour : the first is exceedingly beautiful, and equal, if not superior to any in Europe. Matting of various kinds is another manufacture in which they excel, in many respects, the Europeans. They make use of the coarser sort to sleep upon, and in wet weather they wear the finer : they excel in basket and wicker work ; both men and women employ themselves at it, and can make a great number of different patterns. They make ropes and lines of all sizes of the bark of the Poerou, and their nets for fishing are made of these lines : they make thread of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, with which they fasten together the several parts of their canoes ; the forms of which are various, according to the use to which they are applied. Their fish- inglines are e'^teemed the best in the world, made of the bark of the Erowa, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains ; they are strong enough to hold the heaviest and most vigorous fish, such as bonettas and albicores ; in short, they are extremely ingenious in every expedient for taking all kinds of fish. The tools which these people make use of for building houses, constructing canoes, hewing stones, and for felling, cleaving, carving, and polishing timber, consist of nothing more than an adze of stone and a chisel of bone, most com- monly that of a man*s arm, and, for a hie or polisher, they make use of a rasp of coral and coral sand. The blades of their adzes are extremely tough, but not very hard ; they are of various sizes, those for felling wood weirh six or seven pounds, and others which are used for carving, only a fevr ounces ; they are obliged every minute to sh;:?.rpen them on a stone, which is always kept near them for the purpose. The most difficult task they meet with in the use of these tools, is the felling a tree, which employs a great number of hands for several days together. The tree which is in ge- neral use is called Aoie, the stem of which is straight and tall. Some of the smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit m ROUfip THB WORLD. m tree, which is wrowicUt ivilhout much (liffic^Mliy, Iwing or a light spongy ii«kur«. Instead of plaiief, tJUey iMf tlieir adies witll great d«xt^iAy. y,.t> or ^lu.ih,/. Their oaoo^t are all f hafied with the li^, the Ifi^ians not bein^ acquainted wiM^ the method of warping, a plank. Of these they haYe two kUidsy one they call Ivahahs, tba other Pahies : the former is U8«d for short voyages a( seii, and the latter for long ones. Thes^ boats do not differ either in shape or size, but they are in no degree proportionate, being from sixty to seventy feet in length, and not more than 9, thirtieth part in breadth* Some are employed in going fropn one island to another, and others used for fishing : there is also the Ivahah, which serves for war; these are by far the longest, and the head and stern ve considerably fiboye the body. These Ivahahs are fastened together, siflp by sidci whep they go to sea, at the distance of a few feel;, by strong wpodea poles, which are laid across them and joioed to each. side. A stage «r platform is raised on tbe for^ part, ^bou^ ten or twelve £pet longj upon which stiind ecimen jwlU, ^aUt the reader to form 9iwm notinn 1^ 1^9 laiigiPgiP 9f thflWi Islanders, ,, t ,.... c. v. 2. Q \.<*i^.--¥- ;.*-,::^!b»^^--t>Vt*"^^'* COOK^S VOYAOBA I i '• >!,'! . *»• L^ *' *y Aheine, a woman Aree, a chief Aouna, to-day Eahoo, the noae Eawow, to scold Eei, toeat i^i^'i Emoto, to box Epanoo, a drum Epehe, & song^ Erowroo, the liead Huaheine, a wife Itopa, to full Mahana, a day Matau, the eyes Matte roali, to die Mayneenee, to tickle iV' 4«f ■4k M. >,<• u »il»«*\ Midee, achild /4#»ft'»> Mutee, a kiss ^<'»t> Neeheeo, good night '-m<'« Oowhau, the thighs Otaowa, yesterday Pahie, a ship Tane, a husband Tattate hommanne maitai, a good-natured person Tea, white *"* Teine, a brother Tooaheine, a sister Tooanahoe, you and I Toonoah, a mole in the skin Wahoa, tire Waow, I. •^ Mayoooo, the nails ' The care of the sick belongs to the priests, whose method of cure consists generally of prayers and ceremonies, w^ ' "h are repeated till the patients recover or die. ** * The religion of these islanders appears to be yery mysteri- ous ; and, as the language adapted to it was different from that which was spoken on other occasions, they were not able to gain much knowledge of it. The Supreme Being they stile *' The causer of earthquakes.** They suppose that the chiefs and principal people ivill have the preference to those of lower ranks in a future state ; and that the deity takes no particular cognizance of their actions. - In their form of government there is a sort of subordi- nation resembling the early state of the nations of Europe when under the feudal system, which reserved authority to a small number, putting the rest entirely in their power. The Earee Rahie, or kiag, of which there are two here, one> belonging to each peninsula, had great respect shewn them by all ranks. m ROiIND THE WORLD. t§ Their weapons conpist of slings, in the use of which they tire extremely dexterous, and of long clubs, remarkably hard, with which they fight obstinately and cruelly, giving no quarter to their enemies in time of battle. There is not any thing among them substituted for money, or a general medium by which every desirable object may be purchased or procured ; neither can any permanent good be obtained by force or fraud. On the 19th of July, 17d8, after leaving the island of Otaheite, they sailed with a gentle breeze, and were in- formed by Tupia, that four islands which he called Hua- heine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at the distance of about one or two day*s sail ; and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which had been very scarce, were to be got there in abundance. - On the 16th they sounded near the north* west part of the island of Huaheine, but found no bottom at 70 fathoms. Several canoes put off; but tlie Indians seemed fearful of coming near the ship, till the sight of Tupia removed theif apprehensions. They then came along side,. and the king of the island,, with his queen, canae on board. They seemed surprised at whatever wastsh^vyn them, but made no inqui- ries after any thing but whajt was offered to their nutif«. The king, whose name was Oree, as a token of amity, pre* posed exchanging names with Capt. Cook, wh^^h lyias readily accepted. < , > > t fx? . Having anchored in a small, but convenient harboyr: o^ the west side (tf the island,, (called by the natives Owparjre) the (taptain went on shore, accompanied by ]V(r. Bai|k9 and aomeotber gentlemen, with the king and Tupia. .Tbf» moment ^hey landed Tupia uncovered himself as low as the vifaisty and desired Mr. Monkhouse to follow his example. Being seated, lie began a speech, which lasted abjsut ti^enty/ minutes; the king, who stood opposite to him» answering; nim in what seemed set replies. During this harangue^ Tupia delivered, at different times, a handkerchief,.a bWJc g2 Si 4k ' CC*?it » TdYA^Bflf >'f were 4^^.j|t|^b«ilfcf/'^%|^ ^><^iii«fci tained Vm» ^erj largt hogs. A^ftti^yqlmNlllI' f^ TiifrVr n'rriiiiiiin |iriiiii I fitiiirl iii|||jii)ri|^i^ iMm^iU$ii U promiMdt ia^sft, ^'^lip '1%:Wlilliiil^ aad tlie »i|*cen^liii(i9 bi the iiiursof Hib BrHMdfeilip^ ft¥^ or«U'leagfttM, Ifl^flMltiiifiwhicili tlifey Wjw ^tt/jinyr Oft Ihi^Mb, tiii^^eMWilMn «lift|^4»lilo^«^ t HP' i;^ Mit« (tvfl tad ' Pi Pi pi il m ROUND THE WORLD. u of Oteh»; •but oonkl iiot get ntar emn^ to hnd, tiiefivli»d beings eontrary nnlil the mornittg^ i«4i«ti Mr; HhHJku inx' Dr. Sokiider wait in ibe long-boat witii tb6 nnHrtar, tii tound a bftf bour on the eaat sid6 ci ibe itflMid^ ivteb th«y iooDd smfe and coBveDient. Tbef tbtu-w^otfibtfraaAd p«retaased a large quantity of ptaHtaSnt^ aikd '"ioino hdgi and fowla. l^lpipfodiioa of tbts iflaiid Wat tntidil the Mteo with that of t^letea, but it seemed to be moirt batren. 'JFb^ Miado'aMl U> the northward^ and Undiag tbifna^ltes to windwadrdofaaliarbourontbe West aideof Ufiietea, on Hiti Cad of ' Attgusly ■ ibttf #oored) In « ^8 iktbotif i ' Many of tbopa«H«8 dame oi^ iuid>brbiight bOgUi fo^wli and ptontitios; wbibh wero.|^iiff9lhBwd upon "Mfryttoderate teroM. M r^ Banka ^1 and Dr^ 8olMid«f wiem on ibore and spent the day tery agi n e ab ^ ^ tkia nalivM shewing them very great respciet i * Miing^ oondwotod to the liooses of the ehief people^ they fimnd those who had ran liaslily before then, standing on each side of ' a long mat spread upon the ground, and the iMuily sittingiat the farther end of it In one honsA they ebserv«d souse tery yoang givls dressed in theneatesiinaii« ner^= who kept their places^ waiting for the stuangeni to aoobst thMI : these girls were t most beautifiil the gentle- men-had ever seen* One of th«m, aboiu seven or eight years old, was dressed in a rod gown, haviDg her bead ^eco- ratlBd With a quantity of (Waited hair: she was sitting at tb** uppier ^«kd of one of their loi^ mats, on which none of the people presont preSiined to sot a foot; and her head was r^oKfilitl on the arm of a deoont looking Woman^ who aip- pealed tobehernUMo; when Mr. Banks and Dr^ Solar er apptoaehed her, ahe stretehed eut her band to rsefch oottie beads, ..which tbay presentiad to hjari wMh an air of dignHy and gracefulness. ! r im * In eiae of the houses tbby were ontertained wMi >« dinee» dMfeMnt Unms anythoy hud soflU 'before^ The petfimncrpilt upon his head a largo |ri«oo of wi6ker<>werk, about UMirlbet lott^p^ of t oylbidrifsal ««tt, co^iered witb feathers, nnd 4e COOK S VOYAGES I s« ''i I ^ged round with 8hark*8 teeth. With this head-dress, he began to dance with a slow motion ; frequently moving his heady so as to describe a circle with the top of his wicker cap, and sometimes throwing it so near the faces of the by-st^deni as to make them jump back : this they consi- dered ab an excellent piece of humour, and it always pro- duped a hearty laugh, when practised upon any of the English gentlemen. ^iui - On the 3rd, they met with another company of dancers, consisting of six men and two women. These dancers were some of the principal people of the island, and though they were an itinerant troop, they did not, like the strolling par- ties of Otaheite, receive any gratuity from the by-stand^ra. The women wore a considerable quantity of tamou, or plaited hair, ornamented with flowers of the: osqie-jessamtne, which were stuck in with taste, and made an elegant head-i dress. The women^s necks, breasts, and arms, were naked ; the other p»rts of their bodies were covered with black cloth, which was fastened close round, them, and by the side o^ each .breast, next their arms, was a plume, of black feathers^ worn like a nosegay. Thus ^>parelled ^ey advanced side- Wiiys, keeping time with great exactness to the drums, which beat quick and loud ; soon after they began *q shake ^hem- selves in a very whimsical manner, and put their bodies into a variety of strange postures, sometimes sitting dp wn^r and at others falling with their faces to the ground,, apd res^ng on tbepr knees and elbows, miving their ^i^geirft.at tbesame time with a quickness scarcely to be credited. Between the dances of the women, a kind of dramatic inter-; lude was performed by the men, consisting of dialogues/i^ w«U as dancing; but they could not learr. the subjfcjLiHf this interlude. - i < > 1 1 1 «; Silr^.BHnks, Dr. Solpmder and some other gentlemen, wore, present at a more regular dramatic entertainmeitthe next day. The perfoimers, who were alt men, were di- vided into two parties, one dressed in brown^ and the other ROUND THE WORLD. 41 in white, by way of disfinotion. Tupia beings present, in- formed them that the party in brown, acted the parts of a master and his servants, and the party in white a gang of thieves : the master having produced a lasket of meat, which he gave in charge to his servants ; which party ex- hibited a variety of expedients, in endeavouring to steal this basket, and the brown as many in preventing the ac- complishment of their design. After some time had been spent in this manner, those to whom the basket was intrusted, laying themselves on the gpround round it, pretended to fall asleep ; the other party availed themselves of this oppor- tunity, and carried off their booty ; the servants awaking soon after, discovered their loss, but made no search after the basket, and began to dance with as much alacrity as before. On Saturday the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and several large pieces of cloth, many of them from fifty to sixty yards in length, with a quantity of plantains and cocoa- nuts, were sent to Capt. Cook, as a present from the Earee Rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied with a mes- sage, importing that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the captain. He, however, did not visit them according to his promise, but he sent three young women to demand something in return for his present. After dinner they set out to visit the king on shore, since he did not think propor to come on board ; and, as this man had conquered thiff, and was the dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were greatly disappointed, at finding a poor feeble old dotard, half blind, and sinking under the weight of age and infir- mities. He received them without either that state or cere- mony which they had hitherto met with among the other chiefs. On the 0th, having stopped a leak and taken on board a fresh stock of provisions, they sailed out of the harbour, and flattered themselves that the fowls and hogs would be a sufficient supply for the voyage; but in this they were disap- pointed, for the hogs could not be brought to eat European grain, or any provender which the Ship afforded, and they COOK S VOYA9ES were ^nder the neoessityof killipg i^em imiQ94i^ii Afirried op Inmrdf Mer ing defoiqed lopger at Ulieiea 'm jrepfdriag tb^, ship thav they eipeoled^ they didiiot go on shore »>, Bolahola ; buiiafr ler giving Ibe general Dame of the Society Islands t^ilhf whole group,, thoy pursued their course^ standing Siouthr wardly, for an island to witich they were directed hy Tupia» at shout lOQ loaguos distant, which they disco vered;oa the t9th,aud were informed hy him that it was oalied Qhiterea* Onthellith they stood in for iand> and as thoy approached the shore, they ohserved ^hat the Indians were armed with long lances. A nomher of them were sooq drawn together on (be beach, and two jumped into the water, endearouring to gain the. boat; but she aeon left tbem,. and some others wh«t had mide the tame attempt, far e«ough behind* Having doubled tl^e point where they intended to llmd, they saw another party of natites standing at the end of Hi arawd like those whom ihey bad seen before. Preparatioof being made for landings aoauoe fuHo'f Indians oame off to- wards them. Tupia was desired to acquaint them that the fii^liab /did not intend to offer yiolenoe, but moant to traffic with ithemi for nails, which wore produoed. Upon tbi» they cume alongside the boat, laod aeoepted of some nails which trereiptfenthemi andjippeaffed weU pleased with the prjssenit. In a few mioutea,bojwet«v, sOTVMPal of Ibene people boardoA ibe bolityidesigiiing to dragfatf^n sboie; but some muskets beings ?diaebai|tcd loifer Abeir heada^ (Ucv leaped into the aea, and baling rasiebisdtbeeaiioe, put back with all possible «k^ pMition, joining jUMireomiteyaMU who stood reitdy toseeeife tbOmu i The boat fMunnedlthe fugiitifea, but Ihe enew findicg the siurf ^xtpemely ▼iolant^ did not laiid^ but coasted abug above, te ind a mere eouVlnient pkea« Soon after the oa»»- noo got on ahoiie, a man eppoailo the bout flourished Ua wna^ peav.edling out at' tin sa*ie timn with a shrill yoice of defiance, as^ Tupia explained it to the 'Bnglish. Not being ROUND THE WORLD. 40 able to find a proper landing>place they returned, with an intention to attempt it where Uie oanoe went on shore; whereupon another warrior repeated the defiance : his ap- pearance was more formidable than that of the other ; he had a high cap on, made of the tail feathers of a bird, and his body was painted with various colours. When he thought fit to retire, a grave man came forward, and, asked Tupia several questions relating to the place frpm whence the vessel came, as. Who were the persons on board? Whither they were bound ? &c. After this it was proposed that the people on board should go on shore and trade with them if the natives would lay aside their weapons ; but the lat- ter would not agree to this unless the English would do the like. As this proposal was by no means an equal one, and as perfidy was dreaded, it was not complied with ; and, since neither the bay which the Endeavour entered, nor any other part of the island, furnished a good harbour or ancho?'- age, it was resolved not to attempt landing any more, but to sail from ^;ence to the southward. On the IwtU, they sailed with a fine breeze. On the 95th, they celebrated the anniversary of their leaving Eng- land, from whence they had been absent one year. A large Cheshire cheese which had been preserved for that purpose was brought out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved to be as good as they had ever drank. . Land was discovered on Thursday the 7th of October, and in the morning of the 8th, they came to an anchor oppo- site the mouth of a small river, not above half a league from the coast. Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, Df* Solander, and some other gentlemen, went on shore in the evening, and proceeded to a few small houses in the neighbourhood. Some of the natives who had concealed themselves took advantage of their absence from the boat, and rashed out, advancing and brandishing their long wooden lances. The cockswain fired a musquetoon over their heads, but it did not appear to intimidate them, in consequence of which he c. V. 3. H m COOK*S VOYAGES levelled h:s piece and shot one of them dead on the f pot. Struck with astonishment at the death of their companion, they reiireated to the woods with g^eat precipitation. The report of the gun brought the advanced party back to the boats, and they returned immediately to the ship. >'' '^ On the 0th) a great number of the natives were seen near the place where the gentlemen landed the preceding evening, and the greatest part of them appeared to be un- armed. The long boat, pinnance, and yawl, being manned with marines and sailors, Capt Cook, with the rest of the gentlemen, and Tupia, went on shore, and landed on the opposite side of the river, over against a spot where several Indians were sitting on the ground. They immediately started up,, and began to handle their weapons, each pro- ducing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they twisted round their Wrists. Tupia was directed to speak to them in his language: and they were agreeably surprised to find that he was understood. Their intentions at first appeared to be hostile, bi'andishing their weapons in the usual threatening manner ; upon which a musqu^t tvas fired at sbitae distance from them, and the ball happening to fall intb the water, they appeared terrified, md desisted from their menaces. Tnpia informed them the English desired to traffic with them for provisions; to which they consented, provided the English crossed over to them to the other side of the river. This was agreed to, upon condition that the na- tives would quit their weapons ; but the most solemn assur- ances of friendsbA^ could not prevail with them to comply .- I^dit thinking it prudent, therefore, to cross the rivetj the Engli^h^ iii turn, in treated the Indians to come over tothem^ and kftei^ some iime prevailed on one of tliem|so to do. He wtLS pi'^sently followed by several others. They did not valiie the beads 'khd iron that was offered in the Way 'of biilifteit', M propdse^d to exchange weapons, which being* objecteaid, the Indians endeavoured io snatch the arms,' ROUND THE WORLD. M but in these attempts they were frustrated, and Tupia gave them to understand, that any further offers of violence would be punished with Instant death. One of them, never- theless, had the audacity to snatch Mr. Greenes dagger when his back was turned to them, and retiring .i few paces flou- rished it over his head ; but his temerity cost him his life, for Mr. Monkhouse fired a musquet loaded with ball,^ and he instantly dropped. Soon after, though not before they had discharged their pieces loaded with small shot only, the natives retreated slowly up the country, and the English returned to their boats. This behaviour of the Indians, added to the want of fresh water, induced Capt. Cook to continue his voyage round the bay, with a hope of getting some of the natives on board, that by civil usage he might bring them to be favourable^ and settle a good correspondence with them* An event occurred, which, though attended with disagre'w-able circum- stances, promised to facilitate this design. Two canoes appeared, making towards laud, and Capt. Cook prt^osed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear off, but the Indians in the other, finding it impossible to escape, began to attack them with their paddles. This compelled the Endeavour's people to fire upon them, when four 0f the Indians were killed, and the other three, who wcfeyoulig men, jumped into the water, and endeavoured to swim to shore ; they were, however, taken up, and conveyed fin board. At first they were greatly terrified, thinking they should be killed; but Tupia, by repeated assurancefjof friendship^ removed their apprehensions. Having retired to itest iii the evening, they slept very quietly.^ The ^ext morning preparations wete made for sending them tp their country men j at whi^. they, expressed grea t satisfaction ;, but finding the boat approaching Capt. Cook's first landing placej they .intimated that thd. inhqibitapts W^e|pies. , 'J(!h^ captain, nevertheless, judged it expedient to land near the same spot, resolving at the same time to protect tb?? youths h2 49 COOK*S VOYAGES from any injury that might be offered them. They had icarcely departed on their return to their friends, nvhen two large parties of Indians adranced hastily towards them, upon which they again flew to the English for protection. When the Indians drew near, one of the boys discovered his uncle among them, and a conversation ensued across the river, in which the boy gave a just account of our hospitality, and took great pains to display his finery. After this, the uncle swam across the river, bringing with him a green bough, a token of friendship, which was received as such, and several presents were made him. The three youths, by their own desire, returned to the ship, but as the captain 'intended to sail the next morning he sent them ashore in the r evening, though much against their inclination. Their nkbaes were Toahowrange, Korkerange and Maragoyete. They informed the English of a particular kind of deer upon the island, aud that there were likewise tares, capers, Tomara, yams, a kind of long pepper, bald cootes, and black.birds. > On the llth, they set sail in hopes of finding a better anchoring place, and in the afternoon were becalmed ; several canoes full of Indians came off from the shore, who received many presents and bartered their clothes, and some of their paddles, for European commodities. n * ' Having finished their traffic, they set off in such a hurry, that they forgot three of their companions, who remained on board all night. These testified their fears and appre- hensions, notwithstanding Tupia took great pains to con- vince them they were in no danger ; and about seven Vdock the next morning a canoe came off, with four Indians on board. It was at first vrith difficulty the Indians in the ship could prevail on those in the canoe to come near them ; and not till after the former had assured them that the English did not eat men. The chief came on board, whose face was tattaowed, vrith a remarkable patoo in his hand, and in this canoe the three Indians left the ship. ROUND THE WORLD. 63 On the 13th, seteral Indians came off in a canoe ; they were disfigured in a strange manner, danced and sang, and ft times appeared peaceably inclined, but at others to menace hostilities. Notwithstanding Tupia strongly in- Tited them to come on board, none of them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was getting dear of the shambles, fife canoes full of Indians made off, and seemed to threatMi the people on board, by brandishing their lances, and other hostile gestures. A four-pounder loaded with grape-shot, was therefore ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. This made them drop a-stern. Two more canoes came off whilst the Endeavour lay at anchor, but the Indians behaved very peaceably and quiet, and re- ceived several presents, but would not come on board. On Friday the 13th, they pursued their course. The next morning they had a view of the inland country. Nine canoes full of Indians came off from the shore, and five of them, after having consulted together, pursued the Endea- vour, apparently with a hostile design. Tupia was desired to acquaint them, that immediate destruction would ensue if they persevered in their attempts ; but words bad no influence, and a four- pounder, with grape shot, was fired, to give them some notion of the arms of their opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reasoning, and pad- dled hastily away. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and acquainted them that if they came in a peaceable manner, and left their arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them ; one of the canoes submitting to the terms, came along side the ship, and received many presents ; but the other canoes returning, and persisting in the same menac- ing behaviour, interrupted this friendly intercourse. ^ ' On the 15th, in the afternoon, a canoe with a number of armed Indians came up, and one of them, who was clothed with a black skin, found means to defraud the captain of a piece of red baize, under pretence of bartering the skin he had on for it. As soon as he had got the baize into his poa- A4 COOK*S VOYAGESi ! S| I seuion, instead of giving the sliln in return, agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them together and ordered the canoe to put off from . the ship, turning a deaf ear to the repeated remoistranoes of • the captain against his unjust ^behaviour. After a short time^ this canoe,, together with the fisbing- boatB which had put off at the. same time, came back to the ship, and trade was again begun. . During this second trafiio with the Indians,/ one ofihem unexpectedly seized Tupia^s little boy, Taiyota, and pulling him into his oanoe, irstantly put off, and paddled away with the utmost speed ; several musquets were innnediaAely fired at them, and one of them receiving a wound, tbey. let fgo the boy, who before was held down in the bottom of the canoe. Taiyota taking advantage of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea, and swam back towards the Endeavour : he was taken on board without receiving any harm ; but his strength wae so much exhausted with the weight of his clothes, that it was with great difficulty he reached the ship. In conse- quence of this attempt to carry off Taiyota, Capt* Oook cal- led the cape off which it happened Cape Kidnappers, k m i T«iyota, having recovered from his fright, produced a fish» and informed Tupia that he intended to offer it to his Eatua, or God, in gratitude for his happy escape ; this be- ing approved of by the other Indian, the fish was cast into 'the sea*' ' : I ', * • • • ' -- m c ,',.- vi?tmii\ imi ■ On Friday, the 20th, they anchored in a bay to which they were invited- hy the natives in canoes, who behaved very amicably, and pointed to a plaoe where they said they would find plenty of fresh water. Two chiefs came on board ; they were dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other with dog's-skin. They were pre* sented with linen and some spike nails, but they did not value the last so much as the inhabitants of the other islands* The Test of the^ Indians traded . without. -»* *• --fiiwiij yuwii if ij.'»<:' .iivi* On the S2d, in the evening, being Sunday, they: weired andhor aiid put to* sea, but the wind being contrary they stood for another bay a little to the south. They found- sr n 5d cook's voyages li ! \ratering^-place in a small cove a little within the south point of the bay, distant about a mile. On Monday, the 23d, in the afternoon, they went on shore, aud found the water extremely good, also plenty of urood ; and the natives shewed them much civility. In a valley be- tween two vei'y high hills, they saw a curious rock that formed, a large arch. This cavern was in length seventy feet, in breadth thirty, and near fifty in height, commanding a view of the bay, and the hills on the other side, which had a very pleasing effect. Indeed the whole country is agree- able beyond description, and if properly cultivated would be a most delightful spot. Mr. Banks and the doctor, among other trees that yielded a fine transparent gnm, dis- covered the cabbage-tree, the produce whereof, when boiled, was very good. , On their return they met an old man, who entertained them with the military exercise of the natives, which he performed with the patoo-patoo and the lance. The former has been already mentioned, and is used as a battle axe : the latter is eighteen or twenty feet in length, made of extreme hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake was substituted for a supposed enemy. The old warrior first attacked him wi^h his lance, advancing with a most furious aspect. Having pierced him, the patoo-patoo was used to demolish his head, at which he struck with a force which would at one blow have split any man*s skull. At the watering place the Indians sung their war song, which was a strange medley of sighing, shouting, and grimace, at which the women assisted. The next day, Capt. Cook and other gentlemen went upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe which was 67 feet in length, siz in breadth, and four in height; her bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three trunks of trees, and the sides and head were curiously carved. They also came to a large unfinished house. The posts which supported it were ornamented with carvings, that did . ROtTi^D i^E #bliLD. 57 sis lad not appear to be &tine upon (he spot; itnd ad thfe inhabitants seem td dfeii ^dt value tin works df thiit kind, future navi- g^atord might find gf^i advantage iii cdtrying scich aHM^ to trad^ with. Though th^ poidt» bt iMk house \^kte judged to be brought here, ih^ fi^b^le deeitied to have a taste for carving, ka their boats, ^addle^, ahd iiit tops 6f walking- sticks evinced. Th^ir f^dtifite figure is a* voltite 6r spiral, livhich is i^ometimesi single^ dotibTe, or triple, and is done with great exaOtnei^^, though ihe oiily iustruriients \^er6^ an ax6' hiade of ^tone, arid a chisd. Their ti^^t^ is ex- tremely v(^himsical tihd extravagant, scarcely eier iuiitati^g natut-e. Their hutS af'e built under trees in the T6tm of an oblong st[Uare ; the door low on the side, and the windows are at th^ ends ; i^eedd covered with thatch compose the walls ; the beams of the eaves, which come to the ground, are covered with thatch ; most of the houses had been de- serted, through fear of the English, upon their landing. ^iiei^ are many beautiful parrots, and great lumbers of birds of different ki^'ds, particularly one, who^e note re- sembles the European black-bird ; but there are no groand fowl, or pouKi^y, nor auy quadrupeds, except rats aifd dogs ; and these were nOt numerous. The dogs are considered a^ delicate food, and thei'r skins serve as ornaments to thei^ apparel. There is sL ^f-eat viiri^ty of fish in itt^ bay, sbelt and cray-iliSh are very plentiful, s'oAie of the Unttef weigh neii^ twelve pounds. October the 29th, they set sail ^rom this bay, and saifibjg to the northward, th^y fell in with a small island about a mile distant frotn the noift'h-i^aSt point of the main, and thhi being the n^oSt easteri!) pa^ of it!, the captain named it Beist Gape, and the Island East Islatjid. Continuing under Sail, they came to an island Which they named White Island. On the 1 st of November, 40 canoes came aft as before, threatening to attack thi6 English. One of thdr chiefs flburishied his pike, and made several harangues, seeming t6 bid defia^c^ 16 thoite on boai^d the tesMl. At la^tyaft«r c. V. 8. 1 m 58 COOK .S VOYAGES repeated in'vUations, they came close along^«side ; but instead of shewing a disposition to trade, the haranguing chief took up a stone, ivhich he threw against the ship, and they immediately after seized their arms. They were informed by Tupia, of the dreadful consequences of commencing hos- tilities ; but this admonition they seemed little to regard. A piece of cloth, however, happening to attract their eyes, they began to be more mild and reasonable. A quantity of cray-iish, muscles, and conger-eels were now purchased. No fraud was attempted by this company of Indians, but some others that came after them, took goods from the vessel without making proper returns. As one of them, that had rendered himself remarkable for these practices, and seemed proud of his skill in them, was putting off with his canoe, a musket was* fired over his head, which circumstance pro- duced good order for the present ; yet, when they began to traffic with the sailors, they renewed their frauds ; and one of them was bold enough to seize some linen that was hung to dry, and run away with it. In order to induce him to return, a musket was first fired over his head, but this not answering the end, he ivas shot in the back with small shot, yet he still persevered in his design. This being perceived by bis countrymen, they dropped a-stern, and set up the aong of defiance. In consequence of their behaviour, though they n^ade uo prepara^tions to attack the vessel, the captain gave orders to fire a four pounder, and its effects on the water so terrified them, that they retreated with precipitation. On the 4th, at day break, no less than twelve canoes made tlieeir appearance, containing near two hundred men, armed with spears, lances, and stones, who seemed determined to , a^t^ck the. ship, and would have boarded her, had they, known on what quarter they could best have , made their att^cf{:.j While they were paddling round her, which kept the crew uppn the watch in the rain^ Tupia., at the requebt of the captain, , used a nui^ber of dissuasive arguments, to prevent theii^ carrying their designs into execution ; but ROUND THE WORLD. 50 but nothing could pacify them till some muskets were fired : they then laid aside their hostile intentions,'' aud began to trade: yet they could not refrain from their fraudulent practices; for after they had fairly bartered two of their weapons, they would not deliver up a third, for which they bad received cloth, and only laughed at those who de- manded an equivalent. The offender was wounded with small shot ; but his countrymen took not the least notice of him, and continued to trade without any discomposure. Indeed theft and chicane were as prevalent among the inha- bitants of New Zealand, as those of Otaheite. On the 5th, in the morning, the Indians came off i;»tho ship again, and behaved much better than thety" had done the preceding day. An old man in particular named Toja- va informed them that they were often visited by free- booters from the north, who stripped them of all that they could lay their hands on, and at times made captives of their wives and children ; and that being ignorant who the Eng- lish were upon their first arrival, the natives had been much alarmed, but were now satisfied of their good inten- tions. He added, that for their security against those plunderers, their houses were built contiguous to the tops of the rocks, where they could better defend themselves. Probably their poverty and misery may be ascribed to the ravages of those who frequently stript them of every neces- sary of life. Having dispatched the long-boat and pinnance into the bay to haul and dredge for fish with little success, the Indians testified their friendship and brought great quantities offish dressed and dried, which though indifferent, they purchased, that trade might not be discouraged. They also supplied them with wood and good water. While the English were out with their guns, the people who staid by the boats saw two of the natives fight. The battle was begun with their lances ; but some old men taking these away, they were obliged to decide the quarrel like Englishmen,! with their fists. *'* '" ' ' -. ••' r!,ii;\ It 60 COOK*S VOYAGES fiP'i On the 8tli, tliey vienee visited by severc^l caqoes, in one of which was ToJ£^va, ^ho descrying ^wo canoes, hastened back again ^o the shore, apprehending they w^re free-boot-* ers; but finding his mistake, he soon returned, and the Indians suppUed as mvich excellent fish as served the whole ship*s company. A variety of plants were collected by* Mf- Baiiks and Dr. Solander, who had never observed any pf thfi k^nd h^fore : ^b^y ^^^1^ ^^ ^^ov& till near dark, when they obs^yed hpw the natives disposed of themselves during the nigbV They had no shelter biit a few shrubs. The men lay near the sea in a semicircular form ; an^ t^e women and children most distant from it. They had no king whose Siovcreignty they acknowledged, a circumsts^i^ce i^pt to be met wHh pn any oth^r parts of ^bc coast. £arly in the n^orning of th^ 0th, th^ Indjans brought 9 prodigious quantify of mackarel, of wbich que sort w^re pxaotly the sao^e with those caught in England. Tb^y 80I4 them at a low rate and they were not less welcome to them ^n that account. These canoes w^re succeeded by others Iqaded with the same sort of fish ; and the cargoes^ purcbas^^d if^eve so great, that the ship's company Q^red as many as would serve for a month's pi[ovision. I^'hi^ being a cleax day, Mr. Qreei^, ^he ^trpnomer, landed with some of t^p gentlemen to obserye the transit of ^(ercury. The observation of the ingress was made h^ l^r. Careen sdone, and C7apt. Cook tqpk ^b^ sun's altitude t9 s^s^c^i^tain the ^.me. While the oj^serya^ion ws^ mak\ng, a canoe, \yUb ▼^I'^cus coj^mpdities on bps^rd, p^ij^e a^ong-; s'^^e tl;ip sb^p ; ^n(!\ Mr. Gpre, the o^cer y([^ bf^d thea tb^ cp|i^i|nai^d> bpmg dpsirpus of{ encomi'j^ging them to ti^affic^ produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of inpre v^Vtp thao^ any they haclyet ap&ifi^ yO>^9^ wa^ in^uiediat^y seized b^ poe pf the Inc^ia^s, who obstinately refuspd eithpr to i^eti^rii; \% or g^ve ^ny thing ip exchange : he pai^ dearly bowever foj^ hi^ temerity, being shot dead pn the spot. Jih dpatl^ alarmed all the rest; they fled wit}i grea^ j^jiffcipitaiipy. i ROUND THE WORLD. #t i%k and could not be induced to renew their traflie. But when the Indians on shore had heard the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think that he merited his fate. This transaction happened, as has been observed) whilst the observation was making on the transit of Mercury, when the weather was so fayourable, that the whole tritnsit was viewed without a cloud intervening. |n consequepce of this observation being made here, this bay wa9 called Mer- cury Bay. The Indians sup before sun-set, when they eat ftsh and birds baked or roasted ; they roast them upon a stick, stuck in the ground near the Are. A female mourner was present at one of their suppers ; she sat on the ground and wept incessantly, at the same time repeating some sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain ; at the termination of each period she cut herself with a shell upon her breast, her hands, or her face ; nothwithstanding this spectacle greatly affected the gentlemen, all the Indians who sat by her, except one, were quite unmoved. The gentlemen saw some, who froni the deptU of their scars must, upon these occasions, have wounded themselves more violently. Great plenty of oysters vfese procured from a bed which had been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good« Next day the ship was visited by two eanoes, with unknown Inf^iaBSf ; after some inyitation they came on board, and they all trafficked without fraud. They sailed ffom this island after having taken possessiou of it in the name ol the king of Great Britain, on the 15th of Nov-ember. On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour steered hen tween the main and ^n island, which seemea very fertile, and as extensive as Ulietea. Several oaneea ^Ued wit^ l^ndians came along-side, and ^hey sang their war aang, but the Endeavour^s people paying them no attentioa, they^ threw a volley of stones, aod then paddled away ) heiwever Of cook's voyages they presently returned their insults. Tupia spoke to them, but they answered by brandishing their weapons, intimating, that they would destroy them all. They cast anchor in the evening, and e&rly the next morning sailed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and some of the Indians came on board : they knew Tojava, and called Tupia by his naiiie. Having received some presents, they retired peace- ably, and apparently highly gratified. On Monday, the 20th, after having run five leagues they came to anchor in a bay called by the natives Ooahaouragee. Gapt. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others set off in the pinnance to examine it. They landed on the west dide to examine the lofty trees that adorned its banks. At the entrance of a wood ihey met with a tree ninety-eight feet iiigh from the ground, qiitte straight, and nineteen feet in c'lrcumference; and as they advanced they found others still larger. Capt. Cook gave to this river the name of Thames, it having a resemblance to the river of that name in England. On the 22nd, in the morning, they made sail, and kept plying till the flood obliged them once more to come to an anchor. The captain and Dr. Solander went on shore to the west, but made no observations worth relating. After these gentlemen departed, the ship was surrounded with canoes, which kept Mr. Banks on board, that he might trade with the Indians, who bartered their arms and clothes for paper, taking no unfair advantages. But though they were in general honest in their dealings, one of them took a fancy to a half-minute glass, and being detected in secreting it, he was punished with the cat-o*nine-tails. The Indians interfered to stop the current of justice; but being opposed, they got their arms from their canoes, and some of the peo- ple attempted to get on board ; but being informed of the nature of the intended punisihment, they appeared satisfied, and the criminal not only received a dozen, but afterwards a good drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be ROUND THE WORLD. es his father. On the 24th, they kept steering along the shore, anchoring between the tides. No inhabitants were Tisible, but from the fires perceived at night, it was concluded to be inhabited. ,, ,,;,,j... On the 26th, towards night, seven large canoes came off with about two hundred men. Some of the Indians came on board, and testified that they had an account of their arrival. These were followed by two larger canoes, adorned with carving. The Indians, after holding a conference, came along-side the vessel. They were armed with various weapons, and seemed to be of the higher order. Their patoo-patoos were made of stone and whale-bone, orna- mented with dog's hair, and were held in high estimation. On the 29th, having weathered a point of land which the captain named Cape Brett, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands, and the ship was soon surround- ed by thirty-three large canoes, containing nearly three hundred Indians, all armed. Some of them were ad- mitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broad cloth to one of the chiefs, and some small presents to the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terri- fied at the fire arms, with the effects of which they were not unacquainted; but whilst the captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of the chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and attempted to tow away the buoy ; a musket was now fired over them, but it produced no effect ; small shot was then fired at them, but it. did not reach them. A musket loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and Otewoowgoow (son of one of the chiefs) was wounded in l^e thigh by it, which induced them immediately to throw thcibuoy overboard. To complete their confusion a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon as they landed they ran to search for it. If they had been under, any kind of discipline, they might haye proved a formidable enemy.. i/')ll?! '»- ' ! %'iOUl 64 oook*l VoirAOfiA I .li The oflptftin, I>r. Btinks, «nd Mt. Solander, landed upon khe island. The getitlemen were iii ft small coTe, and were presently Surrounded by nehi 400 artned Ihdiaos ; but the captain not auspecting any hostile design on the patrt of thd natives, remained peaceably disposed. The gentlemen, marching towards them, drew a line, intimating that they were ndt to pass it. They did not infHnge upon this boun- dary for some time ; but at length they sang the sohg of defiance, and began to dance, whilst a party endeavoured to drag the Endeavour^s boat on shor'e; these signals for an attack being followed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend themselves, and aceord!ingly the captain fired his musket, loaded with small shot, D^hich Was seconded by Mr. Banks discharging his piece, ftnd two of the men followed his example. This ihr^W the lAdians into confusion, and they retreated, but were rallied again by one of their chiefs, who shouted and waved hiB patoo-patoo. The doctor now pointed his mus- ket at this hero, and hit him : tlus stopped his career, and he took to flight with the other Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collected body, and seemed dubious whether they should return to the charge. They were now at too great a: distance for a: ball to reach them ; but these opera- tions being observed from the ship, she brought hi6r broad- side to beair, and by firing over them, soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish two of thdr people wound- ed, biit non6 killed. Peace being again restored, the gentlemen begati to gathei^ celei^ and other herbs, but Suspecting that some of the natives ivere lurking about with evil designs, they repaired to a caVe, which was at a Small dista.nce. tlere they found th^ chief who had that day received a present from the captain ; he came forth with his wife and brother, and solidted thteir clemency. It appeared that one of the wounded Indians was a brothier to this chief, ^' who was under great aniiety lest the il^und should prove mortal ; but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, when ^ ri'i ill ROUND THE WOULD. is id re in he was made acquainted with the different effects of small shot and ball ; and he was also assured, that upon any further hostilities beings committed, ball would-be used. This interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling pre- sents were made to the chief and his companions. Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of the island, when landing, and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable and romantic view of a great number of small islands, well inhabited and cultivated. The inha- bitants of an adjacent town approached unarmed, and testi- fied great humility and submission. Some of the party on shore who had been very violent for having the Indians punished for their fraudulent conduct, were now guilty of trespasses equally reprehensible, having forced into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes. The captain, upon this occasion, shewed strict justice in punishing each offender with lashes : one of them being refractory upon this occasion, and complaining of the hardship, think- ing an Englishman had a right to plunder an Indian with impunity, received six additional lashes for his reward. On Tuesday, the 5th of December, in the morning, they weighed . anchor, but were soon becalmed, and a stronje^ current setting towards the shore, were driven in with sucli rapidity, that they expected every moment to be run upon breakers, which appeared above water not more than a cable's length distance, and they were so near tfie land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held a con- versation with the Indians, who were standing on the beach. They were happily relieved, however, from this alarming situation by a fresh breeze suddenly springing up from the shore. « On the 7th, several canoes put off and followed the ]Eftlie igto part with ; the skull had b«en fractured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, and, like the others, it was preserted from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept these skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, they were considered as trophies of War, and testimo- nials of their valour. Some of the company in their excur- sion met with fortifications that had not the advdnta^e of an elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditches, with a draw-bridge, such as, though simple in its construction, would answer every purpose against the arms of the natives. Within these ditches is a fence, made with stakes fixed in the earth. Not only those who are killed, but the prisoners likewise, are devoured by the victors. On the 9^4th, they visited a hippah, which was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a very fine natural arch, one side of which joined the land and the other rose out of the sea. The inhabitants received them with great civility, and very readily showed every thing that was curious. From a conversation that Tupia had with these people, a discovery was made, that an officer being in a boat near this vHhige, and some canoes coming off, made him imagine they had hostile designs, and he fitred upon them with ball, which made them retire with great precipitation, but they could not effect their retreat before one of them was wounded. Whbt made this rash action the more to be la- mented was, that the Indians gave afterwards every possible assurance that their intention^ upon this oceasimi were entirely friendly. « ' Oh the 25th, the captain, Mr. Banks, and Dtr. Solander went on shore to shoot, when they met with a miDtierons ftmily, who were among the creAs catching fish : they behaved very dvilly, and received some trifling presents from the gentlemen, who were lopded by way oC return with the kisses and embraces of both sexes, young and old. The next day, being the 20th, they made another excursion in 70) COOK S VOYAGES the boat, in order to take a view of the strait which passes between the eastern and western seas. To this end thef attained the summit of a hi\. but it being hazy in the ho- rizon, they could see but a small distance to the east ; how- ever, it was resolved to explore the passage in the ship when they should put to sea. Before their departure from this hill, they erected a pyramid of stones, and left some musket- balls, small shot, and beads, that were likely to stand the test of time, and would be memorials, that this place had been visited by Europeans. On their return, having descended the hill, they made a hearty meal of the shags and fish which were dressed by the boat's crew. They were respect- fully received by another Indian family, who added to their civilities, strong expressions of kindness and pleasure. On the 27th and 28th, they were engaged in making necessary repairs, catching fish, and getting the Endeavour ready to continue her voyage. On Tuesday, the 30th, some of the people, who were sent out early in the morning to gather celery, met with about twenty Indians, among whom were five or six women, whose husbands had lately been made captives. They sat down upon the ground together, and cut many parts of their bodies in a most shocking manner with shells and sharp stones, in testimony of their excessive grief. But what made the horrid spectacle more terrible, was^ that the male Indians who were with them paid not the least atten- tion to it, out with the greatest unconcern imaginable employed themselves in repairing their huts. ,| Doiin-iUH-n The carpenter having prepared two posts, they were set up as memorials, being inscribed with the date of the year, the month, and the ship's name. One of them was erected at the watering-place, with the union iflig hoisted on the top ; and the other in the island that lies nearest the £ea, called by the natives Motuara ; and the inhabitants being informed that these posts were set up to acquaint other adventurers that the Endeavour had touched at this place, they pro- ROUND THE WOHLO. '1W mised never to destroy them. Captain Cook iiftmed this inlet Queen Charlotte's Sound. On the 5th of February, they got under sail, but the wind soon falling, they came to anclior a little above Motuara. Topoa here paid them a farewell visit. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on shore in search of natural curi- osities, and by accident met with a very amiable Indian family, am^ng whom was a widow, and a pretty youth about ten years of age. The woman mourned for her hus- band, according to the custom of the country, with tears of blood ; and the child, by the death of his father, was the proprietor of the land where the Endeavour's people had cut wood. The mother and son were sitting upon matts ; the rest of the family of both sexes, about seventeen in num- ber, sat round them. They behaved with the utmost hos- pitality and courtsey, and endeavoured to prevail on the gentlemen to stay all night ; but expecting the ship to sail, they could not accept of their pressing invitation. This family seemed the most intelligent of any Indians they had hitherto conversed with. Monday the 6th, in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, which, from the savage custom of eating human flesh, the ship's company called Cannibal Bay. The number of inhabit'its is not greater than four hundred, who are scattered along the coast, and upon any appearance of danger retire to their hippahs, or forts, They are poor, and their canoes without ornaments. The traffic with them was wholly for fish ; but they had some knowledge of iron, which the natives of other |)arts had not. English broad- cloth, and red kersey they highly esteemed. Leaving the sound, the Endeavour stood over to the eastward, and was carried by the current close to one of the islands at the entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. They were every moment in danger of being dashed to pieces against the rock, but after having veered out 150 fathoms of cable, the ship was brought up, when the rocks 72 COOK^S VOYAGES I- t^' Ki'^ vrere not more than two cables length distant. In this situ- ation they remdned, being obliged to wait for the tide*s ebbing, which did not take place till after midnight. On the 7th, at eight o'clock in the morning, they weighed ar.- ohor, and a fresh breeze with a tide of ebb hurried them through the streight with great swiftness. The next morn- ing they were off Cape PalUser, and found that the land stretched away to the north-eastward of Cape Turnagain. In the afternoon, three canoes came off, having several Indians on board. These made a good appearance, and were ornamented like those on the northern coast. There was no difficulty in persuading them to come on board, where they demeaned themselves very civilly, and a mutual exchange of presents took place. Their di-ess resembled that of the natives of Hudson's Bay. One old man was tataowed in a very particular manner, he had likewise a red streak across his nose, and his hair and beard was remark- able for their whiteness. The upper gavment that he wore was made of flax, and had a wrought border : under this was a sort of petticoat of a cloth called Aooree Waow. Teeth and green stones decorated his ears ; he spoke in a soft and low key, and it was concluded, from his deport- ment, that he was a person of distinguished rank among his countrymen. On the 14th, about sixty Indians, in four double canoes, came within a stone's throw of the ship* As they surveyed her with surprize, Tupia endeavoured to persuade them to come nearer, but this they could not be prevailed on to do. Qn this account the island was denominated the island of Lookers-on. On the 4th of March, several whales and seals were seen; on the 0th, they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon after another ledge at three Itogues distance from the shore, which they passed in the night to the northward, and at day break ob- served the others under their bows ; and in consideration of their having been so nearly caught among tliese, they were ROUN0 THE WORLD. n a of ler >f re denominated the traps. Proceeding nortliward, tlie next day they fell in with a barren rock, about fifteen mtles from the main land, which nvas very hi^i, and appeared about a a mile in circa mferonce; this was named Solander^s Island. On the 13th, they discovered a bay containing several islands, where, if there was depth of water, shipping might find shelter from all winds. Dusky Bay was the appellation given to it by the captain, and five high peaked rocks, for which it was remarkable, caused the point to be called Five Fingers. They had now passed the whole north-west coast of Tovy Poenamoo, which had nothing worthy observation bttt a ridge of naked and barren rocks covered with snow, some of whicu anight probably have remained there ever since the creation. As far as the eye could reacli, the prospects were in general wild, craggy, and desolate. Having sailed round the whole of this uncomfortable country by the i7th, they determined to depart. Capt. Cook therefore went mi shore in the long-boat, and having found a place proper for mooring the ship, and a good watering place, the crew began t43 fill their casks, while the carpenter was employed in cutting wood. The captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solan- der, went in the pinnace to examine the bay, and the neighbouring country. Landing there, they found several plants of. a species which was before unknown tq them : no inhabitants appeared ; but they sa'w several huts which seemed to have been deserted a long time before. All the wood and water being taken on board, the vessel was ready to sail by the time that they ret'irued in the evening, and it was resolved to steer for the coast of New Holland, and return by the way of the East Indies,, On the 31 st they took their departure from an eastern point they named Cape Farewell ; called the bay out of which they sailed, Admiralty Bay ; and two capes, Cape Stephens and Cape Jackson,, {ihe names of the two secretaries of the Admiralty Board.) They called a bay between the island and Cape Farewell, Blind Bay, c. v. 4. L mmim 74 GOOK*S VOYAGES wbicb was supposed to have been the ssme tbat was called Murderer's Bay by Tasraan, the first discoverer of New Zealand ; but though he named it Staten Island, wishing to take possession of it for the States General, yet being at- tacked by the Indians, he never went on shore to effect his purpose. This was in December, 1642. The coast, being now more accurately examined, is discovered to consist of two islands, which were before thought to be a part of the southern continent so much sought after. They are situated between the 3ith and 48th degrees of south latitude, and between the ISlst and 194th degrees of west longitude. The northern island is called Eahieno- mauwee, and the southern is named 'I'ovy Poenamoo by the natives. The former, though mountainous in some places, is stored with wood, and in every valley there is a rivulet. The soil in those valleys is light, but fertile and well adapted for the plentiful production of all the fruits, plants, and corn of Europe. The sea that washes these islands abounds with delicate and wholesome fish. Whenever the vessel cnme to anchor, enough were caught with hook and line only, to supply the whole ship's company; and when they fished with nets, every mess in the ship salted as much as supplied them for several weeks. There were ma«y sorts of fish here which ihey had never before seen, and which the sailors named according to their fancies. Here are forests abounding with trees, producing large, straight, and clean timber. One tree about the size of our oak, was distinguished by a scarlet flower, composed of se« veral fibres, and another which grows in swampy ground, very straight and tall, bearing small bunches of berries, and a leaf resembling that of the yew-tree. About 400 species of plants were found, all of which are unknown in England, except garden night-shade, sow-thistle, two or three kinds of fern, and one or two sorts of grass. They found wild -celei'y, and a kind of cresses in great abundance on the sea ¥^ ROUND THE WORLD. 75 shore ; and of eatable plants raised by cultivation, only co< coas, yams, and sweet potatoes. There are plantations of many acres of these yams and potatoes. The inhabitants likewise cultivate the gourd ; and the Chinese paper mul- berry-tree is to be found, but in no abundance. There is only one shrub or tree which ])roduces fruit, which is a kind of berry almost tasteless ; but they have a plant which answers all the uses of hemp and flax. There are two kinds of this plant, the leaves of one uf which are yellow, and the other a deep red, and both of them resemble the leaves of flags. Of these leaves they make lines and cordage, rauch,stronger than any thing of the kind in Europe. These leaves they likewise split into breadths, and by tying slips togethes, form their fishing nets. Their common ap- parel, by a simple process, is made from these leaves, and their finer, by another preparation, is made from the fibres. This plant is found both in high and low ground, in dry mould and in deep bogs ; but it grows largest in the latter. The natives are as large as the largest Europeans. Their complexions are brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard, They are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious ; and are stout and well shaped. The women possess not that delicacy which distinguishes the English ladies, and as the dress of both sexes is similar, their voice chiefly distin- guishes them from the men. The men are active in a high degree; their hair is black, an|) their teeth are white and even. The features of both sexes are regular ; they enjoy perfect health, and live to an advanced age. They appeared to be of a gentle dii!nmity with the rest. This is owing, most probably, to the want of food in sufficient quantities at certain times. Notwithstanding the custom of eating their enemies, thn ch'oumstanceR and temper of these people is in favour of those who might settle among them us a colony. ' Tho iitbabitants of New Zealand are as modest and co« L 8 76 COOK » VOYAGES 1 i'^'^ ^r !3, I served in theu' behaviour as the most pulite nations of Europe. The women, indeed, were not dead to the softer impresfitions ; but their mode of consent was in their idea as harmless as the consent to marriage with us, and equally binding for the stipulated time. If any of the Eng- lish addressed one of their women, he was informed that the consent of her friends must be obtained, wiiich usually fol- lowed on his making a present. This done, he was obliged to treat his temporary wife as tenderly as we do in England, A gentleman who sailed in the Endeavour, having addressed a family of some rank, received an anwer, of which the fol* lowidg is an exact translation. '^ Any of these young ladies *' will think themselves honoured by your addresses, but you « must first make me a present, and you must then come and « sleep with us on shore, for day -light must by no means be " a witness of what passes between you." These Indians anoint their hair with oil melted from the fat of fish or birds. The poorer people use th^t which is rancid, so that they smell very disagreeable ; but ^hos^ of superior rank use that which is fresh. They wear combs made of bone and wood, which is considered as an ornament when stuck upright iu the hair. The men tie their hair in a bunch on the crown of the bead, and ariorn it with the fea- thers of birds, wjiich they likewise sometimes place on each side of the temples. They commonly wear short beards. The hair of the women somQ|imes ftows over their shoulders, and sometimes is cut short. Bath seyes, but the men m^re than the women, mark their bodies with black sttdnp, called amoco. In general the womeD only stain the lips, bijit sometimes mark other parts with blaek patebes ; the Qfes* on the contrary, put on ^idditional i»arM from year to year, so that those who are very aocieat are almost coveredi. Ex- clusive of the amoco, they mark themselves with furrow*. These furrows make a hideous appearance, the edges being indented, and the whole quke blaek. Tlte ornamenitB e^ the face are drawn in the spiral form, wHh equal elega«oe and i ROUND TUB WOQl^n. 77 correctness, both cheeks beiug marked exactly alike j while paintinjy;s on tlieir bodies resemble liligree work, and the fo* liage in old chased ornaments ; but no two faces or bodifsure painted exactly after the same model. The people of New Zealand frequently leave the breecii free from these marks^ which the inhabitants of Otaheite adorned beyond any other. These Indians likewise paint their bodies by rubbing them with red ochre, either dry or mixed with oil. Their dress is formed of the leaves of the flag split into $)ip9, which are interwoven and made into a kind of matting ; tlie ends, which are $even or eight inches in lengtli, hanging out on the upper side. One piece of this matting being tied over the shoulders, reaches to the knees ; the other piece being wrapped round the waist, falls almost. to the ground. The men wear the lower garment only at particular times. They have two kinds of cloth besides the coarse matting or shag above-mentioned ; one of which is as coarse, but beyond all comparison stronger, than the English canvass ; the other, which is formed of the fibres of the plant, drawn into threads which cross and bind each other^ resembles the matting on which our dishes are placed at table. • They make borders of different colours to both these sorts of cloth) resembling girls samplers, and they are finished with neatness and elegance. What they consider as the most ornamental part of their dress is the fur of dogs, which they cut into strips, and sew oja different parts of their apparel. As dogs are not plentiful, they dispose their strips with economy* They have a few dresses ornamented with feathers ; and one man was seen covered wholly with those of the red parrot. The women never tie their hair .on the top of their head^ nor adorn it with feathers; and are less anxious about drest than the men. Their lower garment is bound tight round them» excepting when they go out fishing, and then they are careful that the nten shall not see them. It ono« hapi^ned that son^e of the ship's crew surprised them in this H COOK S YOTAGBS situation, yihen some of them hid themselves among the rocks, and the rest Icept their bodies under ivater till they had formed a girdle and apron of weeds ; and their whole behaviour manifested the most refined ideas of female modesty. The ears of both sexes were bored, and the holes stretched so as to admit a man's finger. The ornaments of their ears are feathers, cloth, bones, and sometimes bits of wood ; a great many of them made use of the nails given them by the English, for this purpose, and the women sometimes adorn their ears with the white down of the albetross, which they spread before and behind, the whole in a large bunch. They likewise hang to their ears by strings, chisels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of their deceased friends. The arms and ancles of the women are adorned with shells and bones, or any thing else through which they can pass a string. The men wear a piece of green talc or whalebone, with the resemblance of a man carved on it, hanging to a string round the neck. One man had the gristle of his nose perforated, and a feather passing through it, projected over each cheek. These people show less ingenuity in the structure of their houses than in any thing else belonging to them ; they are from sixteen to twenty-four feet long, ten or twelve wide, and six or eight in height. The frame is of slight sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made of dry grass, pretty firmly compacted. Some of them are lined with the bark of trees, and the ridge of the house is formed by a pole, which runs from one end to the other. The door is only high enough to admit a person crawling on hands and knees, and the roof is sloping. There is a square hole near the door, serving both for window and chimney, near which is the fire place. A plank is placed ove. ^he door, adorned with a sort of carving, and this they consider as an ornamental piece of furniture. The side walls and roof projecting two or three feet beyond the walls at each end, form a sort of portico, ROUND THE WORLD. 79 where benches are placed to sit on. The fire is made in the middle of n hollow square on the floor, which is inclosed with wood or stone. They sleep near the walls, where the ground is covered with straw for their beds. Some who can afford it, whose families are large, have three or four houses inclosed in their court-yard. Their clothes, arms, feathers, some ill made tools, and a chest, in which all these are de- posited, form all the furniture of the inside of the house. Their hammers to beat fern -root, gourds to hold water, and baskets to contain provisions, are placed without the house. One house was found near forty feet long, twenty wide, and fourteen high. Its sides were adorned with' carved planks of workmanship superior to the rest ; but the building ap-« pcared to have been left unfinished. Though the people sleep warm enough at home, they seem to despise the incle- mency of the weather, when they go in search of fish or fern roots. Sometimes, indeed, they place a small defence to windward, but frequently, sleep undressed, with their arms placed round them, without the least shelter whatever. The canoes of this country are not unlike the whale boats of New England, being long and narrow. The larger sort seem built for war, and will hold from 30 to 100 men. One of those of Tolaga measured near seventy feet in length, six in width, and four in depth. It was sharp at the bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong plaiting ; each side was found of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, and about an inch and a half thick, which was fitted to the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. Se- veral thwarts were laid from one side to the other, to which they were securely fastened, in order to strengthen the canoes. Some few of their canoes at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, are all made entirely of one trunk of wood, which is made hollow by fire ; but by far the greater part are built after the manner above described. The smaller boats, which are used chiefly in fishing, are adorned at head and j^t^rn cook's voyagrs with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are composed of whlt6 shells : a tongue of enormous size is thrust out of the mouthy and the whole face a picture of absolute deformity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are orna- mented with open work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which gives the whole an air of perfect elegance : the side-boards, which are carved in a rude manner, are em- bellished with tufts of white feathers. These vessels are rowed by a kind of paddles, between five and six feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually decreas- ing till it reaches the handle; and the velocity with which they row with these paddles is very surprising. Their sails arc composed of a kind of mat or netting, which is extended between two 'Upright poles, one of which is fixed on each side. Two ropes, fastened to the top of each pole,* serve instead of sheets. The vessels are steered by two men, having each a paddle, and sitting in the stern ; but they can only sail before the wind, in which direction they move with considerable swiftness. These Indians use axes, adzes, and chisels, with which last they likewise bore boles. The chisels are made of jas- per, or of the bone of a man's arm ; their adzes and axes of a hard black stone. They use their small jasper tools till they are blunted and then throw them away, having no in- strament to sharpen them virith. The Indians at Tolaga having been {Mresented with a piece of glass, drilled a hole through it, and hung it round the neck. A small bit of jas- per was thought to have been the tool they used in drilling it. Their tillage is excellent, owing to the necessity they are under of cultivating or running the risk of starving. At Tegadoo their crops were jnst put into the ground, and the surface of the field was as smooth as a garden, the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there remain- ed a hillock. A long narrow stake, sharpened to an edge at bottom, with a pI0t8 Ige )Te it, for the convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, suppUes the place both of plough and spade. The soil being light, their work ia not very laborious, and with this instrument alone they will turn up ground of six or seven acres in extent. The seine, the large net which has been already noticed, is produced by their united labour, and is probably the joint property of the whole town. Their fish-hooks are of shell or bone, and they have baskets of wicker work to hold the fish. Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. The spear, which is pointed at the end, is about sixteen feet in length, and they hold it in the mid- dle, so that it is difficult to parry a thrust with it. Whether they fight in boats or on shore the battle is hand to hand, so that they must make bloody work of it. They trust chiefly in the patoo-patoo, which is fastened to their wrist by a strong strap, that it may not be wrested out of their hands These are worn in the girdles of people of superior rank as a military ornament. They have a kind of staff of distinc- tion, which is carried by the principal warriors. It is formefl of a whalers rib, is quite white, and adorned with carving, feathers, and the hair of their dogs. Sometimes they had a stick six feet long, inlaid with shells, and other- wise ornamented like a military staff. This honourable mark of distinction was commonly in the hands of the aged, who were also more daubed with the amoco. When they came to attack the English, one or more of these old men thus distinguished were in each canoe. It vas their custom to stop fifty or sixty yards from the ship, when the chief rising from bis seat, put on a dog^s skin garment, and holding out his decorated staff, directed them liow to proceed. When they were too far from the ship to reach it vilili their missile weapons, then the defiance was given, ai'td tbv^ words usually were, Karomai, karomai, harre uta a patco-pr.too. ** Gome on' shore, come on shore, and we will kill you all with our patoo-patoos.'* While they c. v. 4. M IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 ■iiMM 125 lis ^^^ "iiM ^ U& 12.0 u IL25 in 1.4 lli& 1.6 Fhotograptiic .Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WUSTIR,N.Y. 14SM (716) •72-4503 *>^^^^ ^V^ ^ 4r o^ 82 COOK S VOVAOE4 thus threatened, they approached the ship gradually till close along-side ; yet talking at intertttla in a peaceable manner, and aMweritig any questions that w^re asked them. Then again th^ir meiMices were repeated, till encouraged by the supposed timidity of theEndeaYour^s people, they began the war song and dance, the mire prelude of an attack, which always followed, and sometimes ootltinued tlH ^e fiting of small Bhot trepntsed tlf^m ; but at othey^^ they rented their passion by thUswing A i^w stoneh against the ship by way ofinsnil. Tho contortions of llieso savage Indians are numeirous ; their limbs are distorted) and theit faces agitated with strange convulsive motions. Their tongues hang out of their mouths to an amaking length, and their eye-lids are drawn so lis to form a circle round the eye. At the same timtt they shake their darts, brandish their spears, and wave their pattfo-)^toos to and fVo in the afr. There is nn ad- mirable vigor and activity in their dancing ; and in their iiong they keep time ^th such exactness, that sixty or a hundred paddles. When stttick tigkinstthe sides of thdr boats at once, make only a single repdrt. In times of peace they sometimes sitfg in a manner resembling the war song, but the danee is omitted. The wcfmen, whose voices are ex- ceedingly metodions and soft, sing likewise in a musical but VBOUriffvIl manner. One tff ttieir instruments of music is a shell, from which they ^Mroduce a sound not unlike that made with a )common hoMi ; *fhe Othei' Is b small wooden pipe, re- sembling a bhild>8nine^'pin,'ndt superior in sound to a child's whistle. Ttley wet'e ncNrel* heard to sing, or to produce any measttred itot^ like whsftw^ call attine. ' As to'the hori^idtttMom of eating human fie^h, prevident anKMig them, in most of the ctives "W^re (bund flesh and liwnes of men ; land among the heads that were brought on boupd, sonie of 'tiKem had % kind df false eyes, and orna- ments in their ears, hs if alive. The head purchased by Mr. Blinks, and sold with great reluctance, was that of a ROUND THE WORLD. 63 youn^ person, rii4 by the coptusiuRS on one vide, appeared to have reoeived many violent blowa. There had been lately a skirmish, and it was supposed that the young man h^d been killed with the rest. The hippahs or villages of these people, of which there are several between the Bay of Plenty and Queen Cbarlotte*s Sound, are all fortified. In these they constantly reside ; but near Tolaga, Hawk^s Bay, and Poverty Bay, only sin- gle houses are to be seen, at a considerable distance from each other. On the sides of the hills were erected long stages, supplied with darts and stones, thought to be retreats in time of action ; as it appeared from such places they could combat witli their enemies to great advantage. A magaRine of provisions, consisting of dried fish and fern rootA, was also discovered in these fortifications. The inhabitants in this part of the country were rU ffiib- jccts of Teratu, who resided near the Bay of Plenty ; and to their being thus united under one chief, lliey owed a security unknown to tliose of other parts. SeTeral inferior governors are in tbe49minions of Teratu* to whom Uie most implicit obedience is paid. One of the inhabitants having robbed a sailor belonging to the Endeavour, complaint was made to a chief, who chastised the thief by kioking Rn4 striking him, all which he bore with unresisting humility. The inhabitants of the southern parte formed little societies, and had all things in common, particularly fishing nets and fine apparel. The latter, probably obtained in war, were kept in a little hut destined for that use, in the centre of the town, and the several parts of the nets, being made by dif- ferent families, were afterwards joined together for public use. Less account, in the opinion of Tupia, is made of the women here than in the South Sea Islands. Both Aexes eat together. The men cultivate the ground, make nets, catch birds, and go out in their canoes to fish ; while the women are employed in weaving cloth, collecting sbell-fisb, a|id dressing food. M 2 84 cook's voyaoks An (o the reliflfion of these people, they acknowledge one Supreme Being, and several subordinate deities. Their mode of worship could nut be learnt, nor was any place proper for that purpose seen. There was indeed a small square area, encompassed with stones, in the middle of which hung a basket of fern-roots on one of their spades. This they said was an offering to their gods, to obtain from them a plentiful crop of provisions. ' They gave the same account of the origin of the world and the production of mankind, as the inhabitants of Otaheite. Tu- ple, however, seemed to have more enlarged views of these subjects than any of the people of this island, and when he sometimes delivered a discourse, he was sure of a numerous audience, who heard with remarkable reverence and atten- tion. '■Of 'the manner of disposing of their dead, no certain opinion could be formed. Tlie southern district said they disponed of their dead by throwing them into thn sea ; but those in the north buried them in the ground. Not the least appearance of a grave or monument was seen, but the bodies of many of the living bore evident tokens of grief for the loss of their friends and relations. Some of their scars were newly made, a proof that their friends had died recently, yet no one saw any thing like a funeral ceremony or proces- sion, and they affected to conceal every thing respecting the dead with the utmost secrecy. They observed a great similitude between the dress, fur- niture, boats, and nets of the New Zealanders and the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, which evidently de- monstrates that the common ancestors of both were natives of the same country. I ndeed the inhabitants of these different places have a tradition, that their ancestors sprang from another country many years since, and they both agree that this country was called Heawige. Tupia, when he ac- costed the people here in the language of his own coantry, was perfectly understood. The dialect indeed is different^ ROUND THE WORLD. 85 as in Eng and, where the word is pronounced gtUe in Mid- dlesex, and geate in Yorkshire It being supposed that the original inhabitants of these islands and those in the South. Seas, came from the same country ; what country that is, or where situated, remains still a subject of inquiry. In this all agreed, that the original inhabitants were not of America, which lies to the eastward ; and unless there should be a continent to the southward, in a temperate latitude, it must be concluded that they emigrated from the westward. On Saturday, the Slst of March, 1770, they sailed from Cape Farewell in New Zealand, having fine weather and a fair wind. This cape lies in latitude 40 deg. 33 min. S. and in 186 deg. W. longitude. They steered westward with a fresh gale till the 2nd of April, when they saw a tropic bird, a sight very unusual in so high a latitude. On the 15th, they saw an eg^ bird and a gannet. As these birds never go far from land, they sounded all night, but had no ground at 130 fathoms. The day following a small land bird perched on the rigging, but they had no ground at 120 fathoms. On the morning of the 10th they discovered land; to the south- ernmost point in sight they gave the name of Point Hicks, in compliment to the first lieutenant, who discovered it. At noon, in latitude 37 deg. 5 min. and 210 deg. 20 min. W. longitude, tl ey saw another remarkable point of land, distant about foUk' leagues. This point rising in a high hil- lock, extremely like the Ram Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, Capt. Cook gave it the same name. What they had yet seen of the land was low and level ; the shore white and sandy ; and tho inland parts covered with wood and verdure. At this time they saw three water spouts at the same time. In the evening, at six o*clock, the northernmost point of land was distant about two leagues, which they named Cape Howe. On the 27th, they saw several of the inhabitants walking along the shore, four of them carrving a oanoe on their shoulders ; but as they did 8d cook's voyages not Attempt to eome off to the ship, the captain took Mr Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia in the yawl, to that part of the shore where they saw the natives, near which four small oanoes lay close inland. The Indians sat on the rooks till the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of the land, and then ran away into the woods. The surf beating vio- lently on the beach, prevented the boat from landing. At five in the evening they retunied to the ship, and a light breeze springing up, they sailed to the northward, where they discovered several people on shore. The pinnace having been sent a head to sound, arrived near the spot where the Indians had stationed themselves, on which one of them hid himself among the rooks near the landing place, and the others 'retreated up the hill. The pinnace keeping along the shore, the Indians walked near in a line with her ; they were armed with long pikes, and a weapon resembling aspymiter, and by various signs and words invited the. boat's crew to land. Those who did not follow the boat, having observed the approach of the ship, brandished Uwir weapons, and threw themselves into threatening attitudes. .They talked to each other with great emotion, and each of tbem held one of tlie above mentioned weapons. They anchored opposite a village of about eight houses, and observed an old woman and three children come out of a wood, ladcii with fUel Cor a ftre, all of whom, as well as the womn, were naked. The old woman frequently looked at the ship with the ntnost indMPerenoe, and, as soon as she had made a fire, the fishermen brought their canoes on shore, and they set about dressing tiheir dinner with as mudi oomposnreasif m lAiip had been no extraordinary sight. Having formed o design of landing, they nmnBed the Jboaito, and to was much darker than the rest of the sky. As they proceed- ed from Botany Bay, northward, the land appeared high and well covered with wood. In the afternoon of the 13th, they discovered some rocky islands. On Tuesday morning, byj the assistance of their glasses, they discerned about a scord of Indians, each loaded with a bundle, which they imagined to be palm leaves for covering their houses. They fiere traced for more than an hour, during which time they took not the least notice pf the ship. On Tuesday, the ,22nd, at six in the morning, by the help of glasses they disopvered that the land was covered with palm-nut trees, none of which they had seen since they quitted the islands within the tropic. On the 23rd, early in the morning, Capt. Cook, attended by se- veral gentlemen, i^nd Tupia, went on shore to. examine the^ c. V. 4. N m COC>K'>i VOYACEM country. The wind blew to fresh, and was to cold, that beings seoM distance fron the shore, they took their cloaks. They landed within the point of a bay, which led into a large lagoon, by the sides of which grew the true inaa>gnrre, such OS is found is the West Indies. In these man-groves were many nests of ants of a singular kind, as green as grass. When the branohc« were moved, they vame fmrth in great numbers, and bit the disturber most severely. These trees likewise afford shelter for immense numbers of green cater- pillars, whose bodies were covered with hairs, which, on the touch, occasioned a pain similar to the sting of a nettle, but much more acute. These insects were ranged side by side on the leaves, thirty or forty together, in a regular manner. On Thursday, the 24th, they made sail out of the bay, and on the day following were abreast of a point, which being immediately under the tropic, the captain named Cape Ca- pricorn, on the west side whereof they saw an amazing Mimber of large birds resembling the pelican, some of which were near five feet high. t On Monday, the 88th, in the morning, they sailed to the northwaH, and betng determined to keep the main land dlose i^Mmrd, which continued to tend away to the west, they got among another cluster of islands. Here they were greatly alaimed, having on a sudden but three fiithoms wa- ter, in a rippling tide ; they immediately put the ship about, ii|id hoisted out the boat in search of deeper water ; after which they stood to the west with an easy sail, and in the eveniiig came to thd oitrance of a bay. In the afternoon, having sounded remid the ship, and found that there was water suf- ficient to carry her over the shoal, they weighed, and stood to the westward, having sent a boat a head to sound, and at six in the evening they anchored in ten fkthoms, with a sandy bbtlom, at abontfwo mites from the main. ' "^'^'^^— '^' vOq Tuesday, the d9tti, they had thoughts of laying ihe ship ashore, and leaning her bottom, and therefore landed wMh the Master in search of a convenient place for that pUr- ROVNP TUB WORLo. m ir- |iOi«. Id Ihit eifiwiion Mr. Booki and Dr. Solandbr MMopBpMMd them ; tbey found wnlking extremely iooom* modiottfy the grotrnd being covered with grass, the seede of which were sharp and bearded, eti eking in their cIoUmb, whence they worked their way forwards to ilie fleab by means of Uie beard. They were also perpetually tormented with the stinga of the inoschettoe. Several places were fansd OOAvenient to lay down the fhip ashore, biit to their great disappointment, they could meet with no fresh water. They proceeded however, up the country, and in the interior parts found gum>trees, on the branches whereof, were white ants nests, formed of clay, as big as a bushel. On another Iree they saw black ants, which perforated all tlie twigs, and after they bad eaten out the pijth, formed their lodging in the hd.- lows which contained it; yet the trees were in a floufishiog conditioa. They also saw in the air many thonsaads of butterflies, and every bough was covered with incredible ttumbers* On the dry ground they discovered, sy|ipoied to bave been left by the tide, a fish about the size of a minnow, having two strong breast fins, with which it leaped away as nimbly as a frog : it did not appear to be weakened by being out of the water, nor even to prefer that element to the land, lor when seen in the water, it leaped oa shore and poraped its way. It was likewise remarked, that where there weee flawll stones prqiecting above the water, it chose ratfier to leap from one stone to another, than to pass through ^ water, ■ ■ ifi , On Wednesday, the 30th, Capt. Cook and other, gent^e*- men, went on shore, and having gained the summit of a bill, took a survey of the coast, and the adjacent islanda, itbich being done, the captain proceeded wKh Dr. Solander up an inlet, that had been discovered the preceding day ^ but t|w weatker proving unfavourable, and from fear of being bewilh dered among the ahoals in the niglit, tbey returned to the ship, .having seen the whole day only two Indkms, who Mlomed the boat a coBaidMraUa way aloiig shore ; but the tide nu- n2 98 COOK'6 voyagbs I:' n\ng strong, the dapUin thoaght it not prudent tu wait for them. While these gentlemen were tracing the inlet, Mr* Banks, with a party, endeavoured to penetrate into the coun- try, and having met with u piece of swampy ground, they resolved to pass it ; but before they got half way, they found the mud almost knee deep. The bottom was covered with branches of trees, interwoven on the surface of the swamp, on which they sometimes kept their footing ; sometimes slipt through ; and sometimes were so entangled among them, aa not to be able to fr-e themselves but by groping in the mud and slime with their hands. However they crossed it in about an hour, and judged it might be a quarter of a mile over. Having performed this disagreeable task, they came to u place where had been four small fires, near which were some bones of fish that had been roasted ; also gross laid in heaps, whereon four or five persons had probably slept. The second lieutenant, Mr. Gore, at another place, saw the track of a large animal, near a gully of water ; he also heard the sound of human Toices, but did not see the people* At this place two turtles, some water fowl, and a few small birds were seen. As no water was to be found in their different excur- sions, for several of the crew were also rambling about^ the captain called the inlet where the ship lay. Thirsty Sound. It lies in latitude 22 deg. 10 min. south, and in 210 deg. 18 min. west longitude, and may be known by a group of islands that lie right before it, between three and four leagues out at sea. They had not a single inducement to stay longer in a place, where they could not be supplied with fresh water, nor with provision of any kind. Neither fish nor wild fowl icould be caught. j< > ^.^;.i* ;. y.u..i ir. Qn the 1st of June they got under sail, and had now quite •open the western inlet, which they had distinguished by the •name of Broad Sound. A point of land which forms the ,^d W. entrance, they named Cape Palmen^ton, lying 21 fdeg« 80 rain. S. latitude, and 210 deg. 54 min. W. longitude. Between this cape and Cape Townshend is the bay which ROUND THE WORLD. >wl \hey oalled the Bay of Inlets. At eight in the cteningthey anchored in eleven fathoms, with a sandy bottom, about two leagues fk'om the main land. Saturday, the 2nd, they got under sail, and at noon, \l latitude 20 deg. 56 min. they saw a high promontory, whi eh they named Cape Hillsborough. It bore W. half N. dis- tant seven miles. The land appeared to abound in wood and herbage, and is diversified with hills, plains, and valleys. A chain of islands large and small are situated at a distance from the coast and under the land, from some of which they saw smoke ascending in different places. • On Sunday, the 3rd, they discovered a point of land, which they oalled Cape Conway, and between that and Cape Hillsborough, a bay to which they gave the name of Re- pulse Bay. The land about Cppe Conway forms a most delightful landscape, being diversifioa with hills, dales, woods, and verdant lawns. By thr help of their glasses they discovered two men and a woman on one of the islands and a canoe with an outrigger like those at Otaheite. This day they named the islands Cumberland Islands, in honour of the duke ; and a passage which they had discovered, was called Whitsunday Passage, from the day on which it was seen. At day-break, on Monday, the 4th, they were abreast of a point which they called Cape Gloucester. Names were also given this day to several other places, namely, Holboume Isle, Edgcumbe Bay, and Cape Upstart, which last was so called because it rises abruptly from the low lands that surround it. Inland are some hills or mountains, which like the cape afford but a barren prospect. ■^ ' On Tuesday, the 5th, they were about four leagues froih land, and our latitude .by observation was 10 deg. 12 min. S. They saw very large columns of smoke rising from the low lands. They continued to steer W. N. W. as the land lay, till noon on the 6th, when their latitude by observation was 10 deg. 1 min. S. at which time they had the mouth of a bay all open, distant about two leagues. This they named 01 COOK S VOr AUKS GleTelaiid Bay, and the Mst point Cafie Clef eland. Tii9 vieatf ivhiob bad the appearance of an inland, was called Magnctical Island, because the compass did not traverse well Vflien they were neor it: they are both high, as is the main land between them, the whole forming a surface the most niffg^y rocky, and barren of any they had seen npon the coast ; yet it was not without iidiabitants, for they saw smoko in aaveral parts of the bottom of the bay. • ,[ i^fi ) TbMTsday, the Vtb, at day-break, they were abreast of tlic caatefB part of this land, a«d in the afternoon saw several large columns of sntoke upon tlm main ; also canoes, and tome trees, wfaioh they Uiought were those of the ooooa-nut : in search of wldoh, as they woidd havo been at this time very aoeeptable^ Mr. Banks and Dr* Solander went ashore with Itanteaant Hicks ; but in the evening they returned with only a few plants, gathered from the cabbage palm, and whid^ had been mistaken for the cocoa tree. . ^.f,,>^^ On Friday, the 8th, they stood away for the northernmost point in sight, to which they gave the name of Point Hillock. Between this and Magnetical lak the shore forms Halifax Bay* which affords shelter from all winds. At six in the evening they were abreast of a point of land, which they named Cape Sandwich. From iMmce the land tends W., and afterwards N^ forming a fine large bay, which was named Rockingham Bay. They now ranged northward %\ong the shore, towards a oluster of islands, on one of which about forty or fifty men, women, and children were standing together, all stark naked, and looking at the ship with a curiosity never observed among these people before. At noon their latitude, by observation, was 17 deg. 50 min. S. and they were abreast of the north point of Rockingham Bay^ which bore from' them W. distant about two miles. This boandary of the bay is formed by an island of considerable heigbty which thdy distinguished by the name of Dimk Island. 1, «iV..f fr Oil Saturday^ the Olh, in the moruiug, they were abreast ROVND TfTB WOULD. of some small islands, which were named Frankland*s Islaa. At noiNi they were in the middle of the channel, and by oh" servatio'a, in latitude 16 de^. 57 min. S. and in longitude SI4 deg. 6 min« W. with twenty fathoms water. The point OD the main, of which they were now abreast, Cqit. Cook named Cape Grafton. Having hauled round this, they found a bsy three miles to the westward, in which they an- chored ; and called the island Green Island. Here BIr. Banks and Dr. Solander went ashore with the captain, with a view of procuring water, which not being to be had easily, they soon returned aboard, and the next day arrived near Trinity Bay, so called because it was discovered en Tri- nity Sunday. • ■ -^'^ 'J / ih^ef ,»* Sunday, the 1 0th, was remarkable for the dangerous situation of the Endeavour, as was Tuesday, the 12th ; for her preservation and deliverance, as Christians, or only as moral philosophers, we ought to add, agreeable to the will of an overrnling providence, who shut up the sea with doors» who appointed for it a decreed place, and said, ** Thus far then sbalt come, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed.** ' As no accident remarkably unfortunate had befallen out adventurers, during a navigation «f more than tliirteeu hun- dred miles, upon a coast every where abounding with the most dangerous rocks and shoals, no name expresnve of dis- tress had hitherto been given to any cape or point of land wtnch they had seen. But they now gave the name of Cape Tribulation, to a point they had just discovered, iieeaiiBelMre they became acquainted with misfortune. The caps lies in latitude Id deg. 6 min. S. and 214 deg. S0 min. W. longiliMle. ' On Sunday, the iOth, at six in the evening, Uiey shoMteoed oaii, and hauled off shore dose upon a wind, to nvoid the danger of some rocks which were seen ahead. They kept standing off till near nine, with a fine breeze and bright SROOii, and had got into twenty-one fiithoora water, when sud- denly the fell into twelve, tea, and eight fiithoBtt, in a fiaw nnnutes. Every man was instantly orderri tn lHSisliiisn» 06 COOK'S VOYAGES and they ytere on the point of anchoring, whan, on a sudden, they had again deep water, so that they thought all danger at an end, concluding they had sailed over the tail of some shoals, which they had seen in the evening. In less than an hour, however, the water shallowed at once from twenty to seventeen fathoms, and before soundings could be taken, the ship struck upon a rock, and remained immoveable. Every one was instantly on deck, with countenances fully expressive of the horrors of their situation. Knowing they were not near the shore, they concluded they had struck upon a rock of coral, the points of which are sharp, and the surface so rough, as to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, even with the most gentle motion. All the sails being immediately taken in, and the boats hoisted out, they found that the ship had been carried over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it. Finding the water deepest astern, they carried out the anchor from the starboard quarter, and applied their whole force to the capstan, in hopes to get the vessel off, but in vain. She beat so violently against the rock, that the crew could scarcely keep on their legs. The moon shone bright, by the light of which they could see the sheathing-boards float from the bottom of the vessel, till at length the false keel followed, so that they expected instant destruction. Their best chanceof escaping.seemed now to be by lightening her. They therefore instantly started the water, in the hold, and pumped it up. The decayed stores, oil-jars casks, ballast, six of their guns, and other things, were thrown overboard, in order to get at the heavier articles ; lind in this business they were employed till day-break, during all which time not an oath was sworn, so much were the minds of the sailors impressed with a sense of their danger, i At day-light they saw land at eight leagues distance, but not a single island between them and the main, on which part of the crew might have landed, while the boat went on shore with the rest; so that the destruction of the greater part would have been inevitable, had the ship gone to pieoes. It ROUND THE WORLD. 9 mn I but >art ^ore lari It \_ happened, howeyer, that the wind died away to a dead calm before noon. As they expected high water abput eleyen o^clock, every thing was prepared to make another effort to free the ship, but the tide fell so much short of that in the night, that slie did not float by 18 inches, though they had thrown over-board near fifty tons weight : they therefore re- newed their toil, and threw over-board every thing that could possibly be spared. As the tide fell, the water poured in so rapidly, that they could scarcely keep her free by the con- stant working of two pumps. Their only hope now depended on the midnight tide, and preparations were accordingly made for another effort to get the ship off. The tide begail to rise at five o^clock, when the leak likewise increased to such a degree, that two pumps more were manned, but only one of them would work ; three, therefore, were kept going till nine o'clock, at which time the ship righted; but so much water had been admitted by the leak, that they expected she would sink as soon as the water should bear her off dopted. They took an old studding-sail, and having mixed a large quantity of oakum and wool, chopped small, it was stitched down in handfuls on the sail, as lightly ok possible, the dung of their sheep and other filth being spread over it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled under the ship, by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under tiie leak, when the suction carried in the oakum and wool from theiurikce ol the sail. This experiment succeeded so ROUND TJ1B WORLD. well) that instead of three pumps, the water was easily kept under with one. They had hitherto no farther intention than to run the ship into some harbour, and build a vessel from her materials, in >vhichthey might reach the East-Indies ; but they now began to think of finding a proper place to repair her damage, and then to pursue the voyage on its original plan. At six in the evening they anchored seven leagues from the shore. Next morning they passed two small islands, which they called Hope Islands, because the reaching of them had been the object of their wishes at the time of the shipwreck. In the afternoon, the master was sent out with two boats to sound, and search for a harbour where the ship might be repaired, and they anchored at sun-set, in four fathoms wa- ter, two miles from the shore. One of the mates being sent out in the pinnace, returned at nine o^clock, reporting that he had found such a harbour as was wanted, at the distance of two leagues. Wednesday, the 13th, at six o^clock, they sailed, and soon anchored about a mile from the shore, when the captain went out, and found the channel very narrow, but the harbour was better adapted to their present purpose than any place they had seen in the whole course of their voyage. As it blew very fresh this day and the following night, they could not venture to run into the harbour, but remained at anchor during the two succeeding days. The men, by this time began to be afflicted with the scurvy, and Tupia was so ill with it, that he had livid spots on both his legs. Mr. Green, the Astronomer, was ill of the same disorder ; so that being detained from landing was every way disagreeable. The wind continuing fresh till the 17tb, they resolved to push in for the harbour, and twice ran the ship aground ; the second time she stuck fast, on which they took down the bombs, fore-yard, and fore-top-masts, and mad« a raft on the side of the ship ; and, as the tide happened tp be rising, she floated at one o'clock* l]hey soQn got her o 2 100 COOK*t YOYAOES into the harbour, where she was moored alona; the side of a beach, and the anchors, cables, &c. immediately taken out of her. On Monday, the 18th, in the morning, they erected a tent for the sick, who were brought on shore as soon as it was ready for their reception. Tliey likewise set up a tent to hold the provisions and stores, which were landed the same day. The boat was now dispatched in search of fish for the refreshment of the sick, but she returned without getting any ; Tupia' however employed himself in angling, and living entirely upon what he caught, recovered his health very fast. In an excursion Mr. Banks made up the country he saw the frames of several huts, and Capt. Cook having ascended one of the highest hills, observed the land to be stony and barren, and the low land, near the river, over-run with mangroves, among which the salt water flowed every tide. Tuesday, the 10th, the smithes forge was set up, and the armourer prepared the necessary iron-iwork for the repairs. On the 22nd, they warped the ship higher up the harbour, in order to stop the leak. Early in the morning, the tide having left her, they proceeded to examine the leak, when it appeared that the rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers, and that three other planks were damaged. In these breaches not a splinter was to be seen, the whole being smooth, as if cut away by an instrument : but it was the will of an omnipotent being, that the vessel should be preserved by a very singular circumstance ; for though one of the holes was large enough to have sunk her, even with eight pumps constantly at work, yet this hole was partly stopped up by a fragment of the rock being left sticking therein. They likewise found that some oakum, wool, &c. had got between the timbers and stoppedt hose parts of the leak that the stone had left open. Exclusive of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the ship's bottom. While the smiths were employed in making nails and ROUND THE WORLD, 101 le ie ie h ly bolts, the carpenters began to work on the vessel ; and some of the people were sent on the other side of the rirer to shoot pigeons for the sick. They found a stream of fresh water, discovered many Indian houses, and saw a mouse-co- loured animal, exceeding swift, and about the size of a grey- hound. On the 23rd, a boat was dispatched to haul the seine, and returned at noon with only three fish, although they saw plenty leaping about the harbour. This day many of the crew saw the animal above mentioned ; and one of the seamen declared he had seen the devil, which he thus de- scribed : " He was,*' says he, " as large as a one gallon keg, and yery like it : he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through the grass, that, if I had not been afeard, I miglit have touched him." This formidable apparition was afterwards discovered to have been a batt, which has a frightful appearance, being black, and full as large as a partridge ; but the man's own apprehensions had furnished his devil with horns. Sunday, Mr. Gore, and a party of men sent out with him, procured a bunch or two of wild plantains, and a few palm cabbages, for the refreshment of the sick : and this day the captain and Mr. Banks saw the animal already mentioned. It had a long tail that it carried like a greyhound, leaped like a deer, and the point of its foot resembled that of a goat. The repairs of the ship on the starboard -side having been finished the preceding day, the carpenters now began to work under her larboard bow ; and being examined abaft, it appeared she had received very little injury in that quarter. Mr. Banks having removed his whole collection of plants into the bread room, they were this day under water, by which some, of them were totally destroyed ; however by great care most of them were restored to a state of pre- servation. A plant was found on the 25th, the leaves of which were almost as good as spinnage ; also a fruit of a deep purple colour, and the size of a golden pippin, which after having been kept a few days tasted like a damson. / 102 cook's voyages ff Qn Tuesday, the 2dth| the carpenter was engaged in caulk- ing the ship, and the men in other necessary business ; and qp the 27tbf the armourer continued to work at the forge, and the carpenter on the ship ; while the captain made several hauls with the large net, but caught only between twenty and thirty fish, which were distributed among the sick, and those who were not yet quite recovered. Here they saw a tree notched fur climbing: also nests of white ants, from a few inches to five feet in height, prints of men's feet, and the tracks of three or four animals were likewise discovered. ' On Friday, the 29th, at two o'clock in the morning, Capt. Cook, with Mr. Green, observed an emersion of Jupi- ter's first satellite: the time here was 2 hours 18 min. 53 seo. which makes the longitude of this place 214 deg. 42 min. do sec. W. and the latitude 15 deg. 26 min. S. At dawn of day the boat was sent out to haul for fish, and took what made an allowance of one pound and a half to each man. One of the midshipmen saw a wolf, resembling exactly the same species in America, at which he shot, but could not kill it. The next morning the captain ascended a hill to take a view of the sea, and observed sand banks and shoals in every direction. To the northward there was an appear- ance of a passage, which seemed the only way to steer cletr of the surrounding dangers. In the afternoon the people returned with such a quantity offish, that two pounds and a half were distributed to each man ; and plenty of greens Were gathered, which when boiled with peas, made an excellent mess, and they all thought this day's fare an unspeakable f efreshment. ' ' vf On the 1st of July, all the crew had permission to go oo shofe, except one from each mess, part of whom were again sent to haul the seine, and were equally successful. On the 8d, the master, who had been sent out in the pinnace, n^ turned, and reported that he had found a passage out to aea, hetivseti ahoals which cona£ited of eor^t fooksy many whenof A. ROUND THE WORLD. 103 Were dry at l sequence. The bone of a bird, about six inches long, was thrust through the gristle of bis nose ; and indeed all the inliabitants of this place had their noses bored, for the re- ception of such ornaments. These people being quite naked, the captain gave one of them an old shirt, which he bound round his head like a turban, instead of using it to cover any part of his body, They brought a fish to the ship, which was supposed to be in payment for that given them the day before ; after staying some time with apparent satisfaction, they suddenly leaped into their canoe, and rowed off, from a jealousy of some of the gentlemen who were examining it.it ^, On the 12th of July, three Indians visited Tupia*s tent, and after remaining^ some time, went for two others,' whom they introduced by name. Some fish were o0ered them, hut c. V. 5. P lot . cook's votaou ih«y seemed not much to rtgard it ; after eating a little, they gave the remai|ider toMr. BanlM** dog. Some ribbande which had been given them, to which medala were suspended round their neclis, were so changed by smolie, that it was difficult to judge what colour thoy had been, and the smolte had made their sliins look darlier than their natural colour, from which it was thought that they had slept close to their fires, as a preTontative against the sting of the moschettos* Both the strangers had bones through their noses, and a piece of bark tied over their foreheads ; and one of them had an ornament of strings round his arm, and an elegant neck- lace made of shells. Their canoe was about ten feet long, calculated to hold four persons, and when it was in shallow water, they moved it by the help of poles. Their lances had only a single point, and some of them were barbed with fish bones. On the 14th, Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse colour- ed animals above-mentioned. It obanced to be a young one, weighing more than 38 pounds ; but when they are full grown they are as large us a sheep. The skin of this beast, which is ealled Kangaroo, is covered with short fur, and is of a dark ipouse colour ; the head and ears are somewhat like those of a hare; this animal waa dressed for dinner, and proved excellent eating. The ship's crew fed On turtle almost every day, v^ch were finer and better than those eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their natural fat was litasted, and their juices changed. On the 17th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went with the oaptain into the woods, and saw four Indians in a canoe, who wer-t on shore, and walked up without sign of fear. Tibey accepted some beads and departed, intimating that they did not choose to be followed. The natives being now keooifie familiar With the ship's crew, one of them was de- sired to throw Iris lance, which he did with such force and ^SBterity, that though it was not above four feet from the ground* at the higbestj it penetrated deeply into a tree at the' distalioe. of ^ty yards.- The natives now came on board ROffHO Tint IfOitlA* M tbf lUp and ■eemcd well pleaidd ^ith their eBtertaiDinei ^ The W0ID6II, M well m (he men, \tere quUe naked. On the 19th they were visited by ten Indians, who seemed retoWed to bsTe one of the turtles that was on board, whieh they repeatedly made signs for, and being as repeatedly re- fused, they expressed the utmost rage and resentment ; one of them in partieulur, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, he stamped and pushed him away in a most violent manner. At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and dragged them to the side of the ship where the eanoe lay, but the sailors took them away. They made several similar attempts, but being equally unsuccessful, they leaped and* denly into their eanoe, and rowed off. At this instant the eaptaifi, with Mr. Banks, and five or six of the seamen, went on shore, where they arrived before the Indians, and where many of the crew were already employed. As soon as the Indiani landed, one of them snatched a fire brand from under a pitch kettle, and running to windward of what effects were left on shore, set fire to the dry grass, which burned rapidly^ toorched a pig to death, burned part of the smithes forge, and would have destroyed a tent of Mr. Danks^s, but that ■ome people came from the ship just in time to get it out of the way of the flames. In the mean while the Indians wettt t» a place where the fishing nets lay, and a quantity of linen was laid out to dry, and there again set fire to the grass, in BpLCe of all persuasion, and even threats. A musket loaded with small shot was fired, and one of them being wounded, they ran away, and this second fire was extinguished, b«lt the other burned far into the woods. The Indians still continuing in sight, a musket charged with ball was fired at them, the report of which sent them out of sight ; but their voices being heard in the Woods, the captain with a few people went to meet them. Both par- ties stopped when in sight of each other ; an old Indian then advanced before the rest a little way, but soon halted, atid having spoken some words which the English could' oo^* p 2 , ^ 108 COOK 8 VOYAOEV understand, he retreated to his companions, and they aSl re* tired slowly in a body. Having^ seized some of their darts^ the ship^s crew continued to follow them about a mile, and then sat down upon the rocks, the Indians sitting down also, about ahuhdred yards from them. The old man again came for- ward, having a lance without a point in his hand ; he stopped several times at different distances and spoke, whereupon the captain made signs of friendship, which they answered. The old man now turned and spoke to his companions, who placed their lances against a tree, and advanced in a friendly manner. The darts were then returned to them, and this rendered the reconciliation complete. In this party were four persons whom the English had not seen before, who, as usual, were introduced by name, but the man who had been wounded in the attempt to burn the nets, was not among them. Having received some trinkets, the Indians ' walked amicably toward the coast, intimating by signs th t they would not fire the grass again. When they came oppo- site the ship they sat down, but could not be prevailed upon to go on board. They accepted a few musket balls, the use and effects of which the captain endeavoured to explain. When the party arrived at the ship, they saw the woods burning at the distance of two miles. They had no con- ception of the fury with which grass will burn in this hot climate, nor of the difficulty of extinguishing it ; but they determined that if it should ever again be necessary for them to pitch their tents in such a situation, their first work should be to clear the ground round them. m mvi /odt On Friday, the 20th, the ship being ready for sea, the master was sent in search of a passage to the northward, but could not find any ; while the captain sounded and buoyed the bar. The hiils for many milei^ were now on fire, which at night made an appearance truly sublime. On the 22nd they killed a turtle, through the shoulders of which stuck an harpoon, near fifteen inches long, bearded at the end, and about the thickness of a man*s finger, i^esembling ROUND THE WORLD %lf Moh as they bad seen among the natives. The turtle ap- peared to have been struck a considerable time, as the vround was perfectly healed. On the 24th, one of the sailors having strayed from his company, fell in with four Indians at dinner. He ivas at first much alarmed, but had the prudence to conceal his apprehensions ; and sitting down beside them gave^^them his knife, which having examined, they returned. He would then have departed, but they seemed disposed to detain him, till, by feeling his hands and face, they were convinced that he was made of flesh and blood like themselves. They treated him with great civi- lity, and having kept him about half an hour, they made signs that he might depart. When he left them, not taking the' direct way to the ship, they came frooi the fire, and shewed him the nearest way. It may here be observed that the lan- guage of these people seemed more harsh than that of the islanders in the South Sea. They were continually repeat- ing the word chercau, a term' of admiration. They also cried out when they observed any thing new, cher, tut, tut, .tut, tut! which probably was a similar expression; Mr. Banks having gone on shore in search of plants, found the cloth which had been distributed among the natives, lying in a heap, as useless lumber. Indeed they seemed to set very little value upon any thing the English had, except the turtle, a commodity they were least inclined and able to spare. Tuesday, the 24th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander return- ing from the woods, through a deep valley, found lying on the ground, several marking nuts, the anacardium orientale ; but they sought in vain for the tree that bore them. On the« 26th, as Mr. Banks was again searching the country to enrich his natural history, he took an animal of the opossum kind, with two young ones. On the 27th, Mr. Gore shot a kan- garoo, which weighed eighty-four pounds, though not at its full growth. When dressed, on the 28th, they found that ; it had a much worse iavour than that they had eaten before. II II 110 CiOOKHi tOTAOeS lOn Sunday, tha Mih, tbey got all ratdy for sea. A boat was tent out to aocertaia what water was ujwn tho bar: when roliiriied, the ofiieer reported that there was only thirteen feet, which was six inches less than the shi^ draw. Tbey therefore this .^lay gave up aU hopes of sailing. Mon* day, the 90th, they had fresh gales with bazy weather and rain, till Tuesday, the dlst, at two in the morning, when ikk weather became more mederale. Dm*ing all this time tiie pimiace and yawl contiuued to ply the net and hook wMi tolerable good success, bringing in at difierent times a twr^ tie and from two to three hundred weight offish* n bxHtUi On Wednesday, the Ist of August, the pumps were e]E» amined by thje oarpenter, who found them all in a state of decay, and some quite rotten, owing, as he said, 1o the sa|> having been left in the wood : but as the ship aslaitted only an inch of water in an hour, they hoped she was stoat enough, and trusted to her soundness. "-l n^hnniis- On Saturday, tha 4th of August, at 7 o'clock in the mom- ing, they once more got under sail and put to sea. They stood JS. by N. with the pinnace ahead to keep soandiBg. Abo^t noon they came to an anchor, when tlie harbour they hsd' quitted bore S. 70 W. distant about five leagues. The captain named the northernmost point of land in sight, Ga|)e Bedford, and the harbour they had quitted. Endeavour River. Their lai:itnde by observation was now 15 deg. 39 min. S. Endeavour River is only a small bar harbour, or creek, which runs in a winding channel three or four leagues inland. The depth of water for shipping is not more than a mile within the bar, and only on the north side. At th lew and full of the moon it is high water between nine and ten e^cloek. It must also be remembered that this part of the coast is so barricaded with shoals, as to make the harbour ▼cry diflftcult of access : the safest approach is from the southward, keeping the main land close upon the board idl the way. Over the south point is some high land, but the north ia formed by a low sandy beach. The provisiona RomiD me ifOKOt. nt iv€r. S. efc, ind. lile Ad t«ti the ^our the the ioiti itiivf prooiircd' in this harbour connsted of turtle^ cyaten of different sorts, cavalhe or scumber, flat-fish, skate or ray fiflh^ purslaio, wild beans, and cabbage-palms. Of quadru- peds, there are goats, wolves, pole-cats, a spotted animal of the viTerra kind^ and several sorts of serpents, some of whicb only are venomous, bogs are the only tame animals. The land fowls are kites, orows, hawks, loriquets, cockatoos, parrots, pigeons, and small birds of various sorts. The wa- ter fowls are wild geese, ourlieus, hens, whistling ducks^ that peroh on trees, and some few others. The soil of the hills, though stony, produces coarse grass, besides wood; that of the valleys is in general well clothed, and has the appearance of fertility. The trees are of various sorts, of which the gum surrounded. On the 10th they were between a bead^lftnd and three islands) which bad been discovered the* preceding day. They now entertained hopes of being out of danger, but this not proving' to be the case, they called' the headvland Gape Flattery. Some land was now disco-' vttved^ and was generally taken for the main ; but in the cap- tain'flS opinion, a duster of islands. Upon this diversity of sentimeat it was resolved to bring the ship to an anchor. T«his.donoj the captain landed, and from a high point took a^ snrveyitkfitbe ^a coast, by which he was confirmed in his- coflijecture. On the point where be stood were seen t\i» prints of human feet, in white sand of an exquisite fineness': and the place waa-nanwd Point Look-out To the northward of this^ the coast appeared to-be shial and flat ftr a considaru ahk distanse^ whkb^didnateacoanigetho'hope^ tha«'th» 113 COOR*S VaVAQES channel they had hitherto found in ii^iththe land would con- tinue* rt'Miiii i.) - On Saturday, the 11th, early in the morning, Mr. Banks and Captain Cook went to visit the largest of the three islands, and having gained the summit of the highest hill, they beheld a reef of rocks, on which the sea broke in a frightful manner, but the hazy weather prevented a perfect view; they lodged under a bush during the night, and next day seeing what had the appearance of a channel between the reefs, one of the mates, on the 12th, was sent out in the pinnace to examine it ; and returned at noon, having found between fifteen and twenty-eight fathoms water ; but it blew so hard that the mate did not dare to venture into 4 one of the channels, which he said appeared to be very nar- row,; but the captain judged he had seen them to a disad- vantage. While busy in this survey, Mr. Banks was atten- tive to his favourite pursuit, and collected many plants he had-not before seen. This idand, visible at twelve leagues distance, and in general barren, they found to be about eight leagues in circumference. There are some sandy bays and low land on the N. W. side, which is covered with long grass, and trees of the same kind with those on the main ; lizards of a very large size also abounded, some of which they took. They found also fresh water in two places : one running stream, close to the sea, was a little brackish ; the other was a standing pool, perfectly sweet. They were surprised to see, that notwithstanding the great distance of this island from the main, it was sometimes visited by the Indians from tlience ; as was plain from seven or eight frames of their huts which they found. All these were built on eminences, and from their situation, they judged that the weather here, at. certain seasons, is invariably calm and mild. On their return to the ship, the captain named this place Lizard Island, on account of their having seen no other animals but lizards. When returning, they landed on a low sandy island, upoor which were birds of various kinds. They ROUND THE WORLD. 118 took a nest of young eagles, and therefore called the place Eagle Island. They found also the nest of some other bird of a most enormous size ; it was made of sticks upon the ground, and was not less than twenty-six feet in circum- ference, and two feet eight inches high. They perceived that this place had also been visited by the Indians Dur- ing their absence from the ship, the master had landed on several low islands, where he had seen great heaps of turtle shells, and found the fins of them, which the Indians had left hanging on the trees, so fresh, that they were dressed and eaten by the boat's crew. On Sunday, the 12th, the officers held a consultation, and were unanimous in opinion, that it would be best to leave the coast altogether, till they could approach it with less danger; in consequence of which opinion, they sailed on Monday, the 13th, and got through one of the channels in the reef, happy at finding themselves once more in the open sea, having been surrounded by shoals and rocks for three months. They had now sailed above 1000 miles, during which they had been obliged to keep sounding, without inter- mission of a single minute ; a circumstance which it is sup- posed never happened to any ship but the Endeavour. The passage through which they passed into the open sea beyond the reef, is in latitude 14 deg. 32 min. S. and may always be known by the three high islands within it, which Capt. Cook called the Islands of Direction, because by these a stranger may find a safe channel through the reef quite to the main. The channel lies from Ldzard Island N. E. half N. distant three leagues, and is about one third of a mile broad, and much the same in length. The islands abound in turtle and other fish, and on the beach they found bamboos, cocoa nuts, pumice-stone, and the seeds of plants, supposed to have been wafted thither by the trade winds, as the plants themselves are not natives of this country. On t!ie 15th, they steered a westerly course, in ord&r to get sight of land, that they might not overshoot the passage, c. v. 5. Q I IH cooK^s Yorkota \ if a paasage tliera wm between this landt Md New Qidnea. Etrly inthe afleraeon tliey had eight of laid, which had the appeanmee of hiHy islande, and saw breakers between the ▼essel and fte land, in whiefa Ihere was an openiag ; to get dew, tfa^ set all siul, and stood to the northward Ull mid- night, and then went on a southward taeli for about two miles, w4ien tbebreeBe^ed away to a dead calm. When day -light came cmi Iflkey saw a dreadful surf break at a vast height, within a mile of the ship, towards which the rolling waves carried her with great rapidity. Thus distressed, the boats were sent ahead to tow, and the head of the vessel was bruught abont, bnt not till she was within a hundred yards of the rock, between whioh and her there was nothing left but the chasm, and which hsd risen and broke to a wonderful height on the rock ; but in the moment they expected in- stant destruction, a breeze hardly discemH>le, aided the boats in getting the \esset in an oblique direction from the rock. ' The hopes, however, afforded by this providential circum- stance, were destroyed by a perfect calm, which succeeded in a few minutes ; yet the breeze once more returned, before they had lost the little ground which had been gained. At this time a small opening was seen in the reef, and a young officer being sent to examine it, found that its breadth did not much exeeed the length of the ship, but that there was smooth water on the other side of the rocks. Animated by the desire of pre- serving life, they now attempted to pass the opening, but (his was impossible ; for it having become high- water in the inte- rim, the ebb tide rushed through it with amazing impetuosity, trarry ing i^e shipa bouta quarter of a mile from the reef, and she soon reached the distance of near two miles by the help of the boats. When the ebb tide was spent, the tide of flood again drove tlie vessel very near the rocks, so that the pros- peet of destruction was renewed, when they discovered ano- ther opening, and a light breeze springing up, they entered it, and were driven through it with a rapidity that prevented th« ship from striking against either side of tlie channel. The ROUBP tm 1V«AJJ). lU d d ■hip B»fr came io an laebwr, aM tbe crew were grateful fee bafing regained a statiea, vhioh tiiey had been very lately laost anxioof to quit The naBM of Providence Channel was given to the opening through which the ship had thus escaped the nu»t imminent dangers. A high proisoiitory on the nain land in sight, was denominated Cape Wey- mouth, and a bay near it Weymouth Bay. This day the boats went out to fish, and met with success, particularly in catching cookies, some of which were of such an ainaung size, as to require (he strength of two men to iDove them. Mr. Banks likewise succeeded in his search for rare shells and different kinds of coral. On the 18th, they discovered several small islands, which wei>e called Forbes's Islands, and had a sight of a high point of land on the main, which was named the Bolt Head. Oa the 10th, they discovered several other small blanda, the land of which was low, barren, and sandy. A point was neea, and ealled Cape Greuville, and a bay Which took the name of Temple Bay. In the afternoon many other islands were seen, which were denominated Bird Idles, from their being frequented by numerous flocks of birds. On the 30th, many more small islands were seen, on one of which were a few trees, and several Indian huts, supposed to have been erect- ed by the natives of thejmaiu land, as temporary haliita- tionn during their visit to Uiese islands. On tlie 2 1st, they sailed through a channel, in which was a number of shoals ; and they gave the name of York Gape to a point of the main land which forms the side of the channel. A large bay is formed to ttie south of the cape, which was called New- castle Bay, and in which aie several little islands : on the north side of the cape the land is rather mountainous, but the low parts of the country abound with trees : the island<> discovered in the morning of this day, were called York Isles. Afterwards they anchored between some islands and observed that the channel began to grow wider ; they peroeiT> ed two distant points, between wliich no land could be seen, Q 2 116 book's totaoks ■o that the hope of having at length explored a passage into the Indian Sea, began to animate every breast; but to bring the matter to a certainty, the captain took a party, and being accompanied by Messrs. Solander and Banks, they landed on an island on which they had seen a number of Indians, ten of whom were on a hill, one of them carrying a bow and a bundle of arrows, the rest armed with lances ; and round the neck of two of them'hung strings of mother of pearl. Three of these Indians stood on shore as if to oppose the landing of the boat, but they retired before it reached the beach. The captain and his company now ascended a hill, from whence they had a view of nearly forty miles, in which space there was nothing that threatened to oppose their passage, so that the Certainty of a channel seemed to be almost indu- bitable. Previous to their leaving the island, Capt. Cook displayed the English colours, and took possession of all the •eastern coast of the country, from the 38th deg. of S. latitude to the present spot, by the name of New South Wales, for his sovereign the King of Great Britain : and three volleys of small arms being fired, and answered by an equal number from the Endeavour, the place received the name of Posses- iion Island. The next morinng they saw three naked wo- men collecting shell fish on the beach ; and weighing anchor, gave the name of Cape Cornwall to the extreme point of the largest island on the north-west side of the passage : some low islands near the middle of the channel received the name of Wallis^s Isle ; soon after which the ship came to an anchor, and the long-boat was sent out to sound. Towards evening they sailed again, and the captain landed with Mr. Banks, on a small island which was frequented by immense numbers of birds, the majority of which being boobies, the place received the name of Booby Island. They were now advanced to the northern extremity of New Holland, and had the satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the westward. The N. E* entrance to the passage is formed by the main land of New Holland, and by a number of islands, which took ROUND THB WORLD. 117 tke name of the Prince of Wale8*s Islands, and which Capt. Cook imagined may reach to New Guinea. This passage he called Endeavour Straits. New South Wales is a larger country than any hitherto known which is not deemed a continent, being larger than; all Europe, as is proved by the Endeavour having coasted more than 3000 miles, even if her track were reduced to a straight line. Northward of the latitude of 33 deg. the. country is hilly, yet not mountainous ; but to the southward of that latitude it is mostly low and even ground. The hills in general are diversified by lawns and woods, and many of the valleys abound with herbage, though, on the whole, it cannot be deemed a fertile country. To the northward the grass is not so rich, nor the trees so high a» iu the southern parts, and almost every where even the largest trees grow at a distance of not less than thirteen yards asunder. In all places where the land forms a bay, the shore is covered with man-groves, that grow about a mile inland, in a swampy ground, which the spring tides always overflow ; in some parts are bogs, covered with thick grass and plenty of un- derWood in the valleys ; the soil in general seems unfit for cultivation, though there are many parts where the arts of tillage might be practised with success. There are several salt creeks, running in many directions through the country, where there are also brooks of fresh water, but there are no rivers of any considerable extent ; yet it seemed to be well watered, as the time when the ship was on the coast was reckoned the driest season of the year. The gum-tree yields a resin like dragons blood. Here are three kinds of palm- trees, two of which are found only in the northern district* Nuts somewhat resembling chesnuts, which were supposed to be eatable, are produced by one of these trees, but some of the seamen having made free with them were taken ill : two died within a week, and it was not without difficulty that the third was recovered. Another sort of palm is much like the West Indian cabbage-tree, which yields a cabbage of an I II 4 5 IIS «00K*8 VOYAGItf^^n ■g^reeabie taste. A third sort abounds in the ■outfaom parf^ and produces a small cabbage of a Tery agreeable flavour^ mth many nuts, ivhich furnish food for hogs. There is like.* tvise a tree on which grows a purple apple that tastes like a damson, as before obserTcd. Besides these, there is a fig*tree, producing flg^, but not of the finest sort, and they hate another which bears a sort of plum that is flal on the sides like a cheese. A plant was found here, the lesTes of which were like those of the bulrush, yielding a bright yellow resin resembling gambouge, but it did net stain; it had a Tery agreeable smell. They found two sorts of yams, the one round and covered with stringy fibres, the other in shape like a radish ; both o^' which are of a pleasant taste. A fruit of a disagreeable flavour was found, in shape resembling a pine-apple ; and another that was muoh like a cherry, but had a soft kernel. The country produces pur« slain and wild parsley. They saw here, besides the beast already mentioned, one that was called a quail : the belly of this animal was quite white, its back was brown with white spots, and it was like a pole-cat. Vast numbers of beautiful pigeons were observed, and the seamen shot many of them, also eagles, hawks, cranes, herons, bustards, crows, parrots^ parroquets, cockatoos, and some other birds of fine plumage^ besides quails and doves. In this country there are but few insects, and the ants and moschettos are the chief among them. There are four kinds of the former which deserve particular notice. The first of these are entirely green, and live on trees, where they build thdr nests in a rery curious manner, bending the leaves and glueing them together with an animal juice, supposed to pro^- ceed from their own bodies. While several of these animds were busied in this employ, thousands were joined to keep the leaf in its proper situation, which when they were dis- turbed in their work, flew back with a force that any one would hate imagined to be superior to their united strength ; at t|ie same time they avenged themselves by severely sting- ROtJlfD THE WORLb. 110 »tof loUd wad teep Idis- oBe mg tuefr antuTMn. The teoond ■pedes of ants here are blaek, and liTe in the inside of the branohes, after they hate worked out the pith. The third sort lodged themselves in the root of a plant that twines round the trunks of other trees. This they made hollow, and out into a great number of pas- sages that ran across each other, yet there was no appear- ance of the pisnts hating been injured. They are not abote half the size of the red ants of this country. As to the fourth sort, they are like the East-Indisn white ants, and had one sort of nests as big as a half-peck loaf, which hung from the boughs of trees, and were composed of seteral minute parts of vegetables, which appeared to be stuck together by the glutinous juice before-mentioned. There wps a communication between the cells and passages to other nests upon tlie same tree ; they had also a hollow covered passage to another nest on the ground, at the root of a different tree. The height of the ground nests was found to be of about six feet, and the breadth nearly the same ; the outside was plastered with day almost two inches thick. These had a subterraneous passage; leading to the roots of the trees near which they were constructed, from whence these creatures ascended the trunk and branches by covered ways calcu- lated for the purpose. It was concluded that the ants resorted to these ground nests during the wet season, as they were water-proof. The country does not appear to be inhabited by numbers any way propMtioned to its great extent ; not above thirty having been seen together but once, which was when those of both sexes and all ages got together on a rock off Botany Bay, to view the ship. None of their villages consisted of more huts than would afford shelter for fourteen or fifteen men, and these were the largest numbers that were assem- bled with a view to attack the English. No part of the country appeared to be cultivated, whence there must neces- sarily be fewer Inhabitants on the inland parts than on the sea coast. The men are well made, of the middle siee, and 180 CO0K*S V0YAQB8 •otive in » high degpree ; but their voioet are soft, even to effemintcy. Their colour is diocolate ; but they were so co- Tered with dirt, as to loolc almost as black as negroes. Their hair is naturally long and black, but they commonly cropped it short; in some few instances it was slightly curled, but in common quite straight ; it was always mat- ted with dirt, yet wholly free from lice; their beards are thick and bushy, but kept short by singeing. The women were seen only at a distance, as the men constantly left them behind when they crossed the river. The chief ornament of these people is the bone that is thrust through the nose, which the sailors whimsically called the sprit'Sail yard ; but besides this* they wore necklaces formed of shells, a small cord tied twice or thrice round the arm between the elbow and the shoulder, and a string of plaited human hair round Xhe waist Some few of them had an ornament of shells hanging across the breast. Besides these ornaments, they painted their bodies white and red, in stripes of different di- mensions ; and they had a circle of white round each eye, and spots of it on the face. Their ears were bored, but they did not wear ear-rings. They accepted whatever was given them, but seemed to have no idea of making an adequate return ; and they would not part with their ornaments for any thing that was offered in exchange. Their bodies were marked with scars, which they signified were in remembrance of the deceased. Their huts were built with small rods, the two ends of which were fixed in the ground, so as to form the figure of an oven ; they were covered with pieces of bark and palm-leaves. The door of this building, which is only high enough to sit upright in, is opposite to the fire place. They sleep with their heels turned up towards their heads, and even in this posture the hut will not hold more than four people. In the northern parts, where the weather is warmer, one side of the houses was left open, and the other opposed to whatever mnd might blow at the time there ; huts were only built for temporary use, and left behind KOCMD TBI WOILO. 191 ^im Hmj nfaioNred to other parti of the coontry ( hut if ^Ih^iitay was only for a night or two, they had oo other fvMeotiOB ifcoa the weather than what the grata and biuhct affolNledt While 'the butt on the main land were taraod 4ff0fB the wind, those on thd islands were towards it : a kind of INTOof that they visit ihese islands in 6ne weather; and et\|oy the irefinshing breeze while they riept. These huts are fur- nialMd iwith H kind of bucket fur fetching water, made of aA oblong piece of baUk, tied up at«aoh end with a twig of a 4iiee ;iiand this is the only fuvniture of tlie house. On their haeks they have a kind of hag, of the sixe and fonn of a cahhage^net, in which they earry tlieir fish-books and lines, and the shells of whioh they make these hooks ; the ornSf meats whitib they wear.ooosist of some points of darts, and twit, is very singithir: (having wrought one end of a atidk to an obtuse point, they place this point upon a piece of dry wodd, and turning 'the ttpHght stick very fast back- waifd and forward beiweeii their hands, fire is soon produced, nor is it increased with less celerity. One of the natives was frequently^obsell>ved torun tfloagthe^ea coast, leaving fire in different' places. The mathod taken to do this was as c. V. 0. |i 192 COOK^S VOYAGES follows : before he set off he wrapped np a little spark of fire in dry' gfrats, and the quickness of his motion soon fanning it iutd a flame, he then placed it on the ground, and putting^ a spark of it in another bit of grass, ran on again and in- creased the number of fires at pleasure. These fires were supposed to be intended for the taking of the kangaroo,> as that animal was so very shy of fire, that when pursued by the dogs, it would not pass places which had been newly burnt, even when the fire was extinguished. The natives of New South Wales make use of spears or lances, but these are very difierently constructed : those that were seen in the southern parts of the country had four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed, and the points were rubbed with a kind of wax, the smoothness of which made an easier passage into what was struck by them. On the con- trary, the lances in the northern parts have only one point; the shafts of them are of diflferent lengths, from eight to four- teen feet, are made of the stalk of a plant not unlike a bulrush, and consist of several joints let into each other, and tied to- gether. The points of these lances are sometimes made of fish-bone, and sometimes of a hard heavy wood ; they are barbed with other pieces of wood or stone, so that when they have entered any depth into the body, they cannot be drawn eut without tearing the flesh in a shocking manner, or leaving s^'iinters behind them. When the natives intend to wound at a considerable distance, they discharge this instrument with a throwing stick, but if the object be near them, it is thrown from the hand only. The throwing stick is a piece of smooth, hard, red wood, half an inch thick, two inches broad, and about three feet in length, having a cross piece near four inches long at one end, and a small knob at the other. A small hollow is made in the shaft of the lance, near the point, and in this hollow the knob is received^ hut on being forced forward^ it will easily slip from it. The lance being placed on this throwing stick, the Indian holds it over his shoulder, shakes it, and then throws both lance. ROUND THE WORLD. 123 and stick with his utmost power ; hut as the cross-piece strikes the shoulder, the sudden jerk stops the stick, while the lance is driven forward with amazing rapidity, and is generally so well aimed, that a mark at the distance of fifty yards is more surely struck with it than by a bullet from a gun. These people make use of shields made of the bark of trees, of about eighteen inches broad, and three feet long. Many trees were seen from whence the bark had been taken, and others on which the shields were cut out but not taken away. In the northern parts of this country the canoes are formed by hollowing thi. trunk of a tree, and it was conjectured that this operation must have been per- formed by fire, as the natives did not appear to have any instrument proper for the pu/pose. The canoes are in length about fourteen feet, and so narrow that they would be fre- quently overset hut that they are provided with an out-rig- ger. The natives row them with paddles, using both hands in that employment. The canoes in the southern parts are formed of a piece of bark, four yards long, fastened toge- ^.her at each end, and kept open by a piece of wood passing from side to side. Tn deep water these are rowed by pad- dles, of about a foot and a half in length, the rower having one in ea6h hand, but in shallow water they are pushed for- ward by means of a long stick. As these vessels are extremely light, and draw very little water, the Indians run them on the mud banks in search of shell-fish, some of which, it is probable, they broil and eat as soon as they are taken, as it was remarked th '. in the centre of these vessels there was a fire usually kept burning ou a quantity of sea- weed. The natives have no tools but a wooden mallet, a kind of Wedge, and an adze made of stone, with some pieces of coral and shells, which may possibly be applied to the purposes of cutting. They polish the points^of their lances, and their throwing-sticks, with the leaves of a tree whicii has the appearance of the wild fig, which bites with a sharpbiess- almost equal to that of a rasp. Four people R 2 124 eOOK's VOVAOES i'i'H f?;**;" <• }t' are the greatest uumber that a canoe will eontaii;! y and when more tlmn thi» nuinber wereto pass a viver, three wer* lauded out of the first freigbt^ and ope maa if eat badi . fof . th6:re8tw^-rTrt--'- - /: i, •, ;• 'f,, ... ;:.......... /The foUowiogmay serre as a specimen of their languagpe. M Acq, the arms Mo: ee, the hair of the head. Aibudje, to yawn ffj^ij a^» Mooyel, a wdman , ^.,^.,« ' Bamma, a man ' , -r > .; Mulere, the teeth Bonjoo^ the nose Boota, to eat Chueula, to drink. Gotta, a dog Coyor, the breast '■*^, Dooinboo, the neck DunjO) a father * Eboorbalga, the thumbs : Edamaly t'ltefeet , Eiyamoae, the crown of i tiieiiead Eya & ba, that or this Galan, the sun Garbar, the eye-brows Gippa, the belly .sj. Kere, the sky Koike, the n^^ils Mailelel, to swim Maianang, fire Marra, togo Mangal, the hands Meul, the eyes Helea, the ears Mingoree, to dance MoGoo, the back Morcol, the throat Nakil, the little d/igei; ^^^,^i Pcegoorga, the legs ^,, ^^^ PeeUf the forehead ,.„ ,^^ , Poapoa, the earth ^^^ ^ ; Pongo, the knee ,j j^^^, Poena, to sleep ..,„;„,,, Pporai, water ^HiJoUmHJ Poteea,fish j,,,,,,^ Putai^ a turtle ,.^^ ,^^, Tabugga,afly .Jnrri*,^ Tacal, the chb, , tfio VKQ (ftfllSjl ROVNO THE WORLD. m pospeMcd^yet aot a wound reoshKed from tbeirufiMpMiy appeared on any part o£ ^bns bodies, .i giuvi vi •jhinu o-:'jy.- 8 Ob Friday, the84thy they gbf under Bafl,.8tetiing^N»liiir« and in a few hours ope ef the boats a<^head made tft^e a^rialjlop sboid-water. They Instantly beo4|ight the ahifk.ta, witliiitt her sails standing, aad a survey beingtaken of the seaaroiind her, it was found that she had met with another Mtrair escape, as she was almost encompassed with skoals^ and iwaa likewise so situated between them that she must has# struck befove the boat*s crew had made the signal, if ihe had been half the length of a cable on either side. I& the aftemoon they nJade saU with the ebb tide, and got out of danger beiera son-set* ' UJ&itl 'Wt>i3U « Od the S7tb, they pursued their voyage, shortenug saQ at idgbt, and tacking till day-break of the 38tb, when they steered due N. in search of New Guinea. Hany parts of the sea were covered with a kind of brown scum, to which the sidlors gave the name of spawn* It is formed of an in* credible number of minute particles, each of which^ when seen through a microscope, was found to oonsist of a cOBsiderAble number of tubes, and these tubes were subdi- vided into little cells. The scum being burnt, and yielding no smell like what is produced by animal substances, they concluded it was of the vegetable kind. This has often been seen on the coast of Brazil, and generally makes its appear- ance near the land. A bird called the Noddv was taken this evening among the rigging of the ship. Land having been this day discovered from the mast head, they stood off and on all night, and at day-break they sailed towards it with a brisk gale. »^ On Thursday, the 80th, they had sight of land ; its appear- ance was flat and woody. Abundance of the brown scum was still seen on the surface of the sea, and the sailors, con- vinced that it was not spawn, gave it the whimsical name of sea-saw-dust. They now held a northward course, scarcely within sight of land, and as the water was but just deep idd C00k*S VOYAOBS enough to MTigate the Teuel, maiiy uncuccessful attempts, were made to bring her near enough to get on shore; it vraa therefore determined to land in one of the boats, while the ship kept plying off and on. In consequence of this reso- lution, on the 3rd of September Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, attended by the boat*8 crew, and Mr. Banks's teryant, set off from the ship in the pinnace, being: in all twelte persons, well armed. They rowed directly to the shore, but when they came within two hundred yards of: it, they found the water so shallow, that they were obliged to! leave the bo»t in the care of two of the sailors, and wade, ta! land. They t ^veral prints of human feet on the sand,, below high wate.< ark, from whence it was evident that the^ natives had been there. They walked by the side of a wood, and came to a grove of cocOa-nut trees, not far fronii! which was a shed or hut, which had been covered with leaves, and near it lay a number of fresh shells of the fruit.: At a small distance from this place they found plantains.. Having now advanced about a quarter of a mile from tbe> boat, three Indians rushed from the wood with a hideous*, shout, at about the distance of a hundred yards ; and as they < ran towards the English, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which flew on one side of him, and burnt like gun-powder, but made no report : the other two threw their; lances. The crew then discharged their pieces, loaded with small shot only ; upon which the Indians cast a third dart.: The crew now loaded with ball, and fired a second time, and it is probable some of them were wounded, as they all: took to their heels with great agility. They now returned to the boat. On the way they perceived signals on board, that more natives were coming in a body ; and before they got to the water, perceived several Indians coming round, a point at the distance of five hundred yards. When they \ saw the crew they halted, and seemed to wait till their main body should join them. They continued in this station. V.yj. .^i: i-^: .t. (f ROUND THB WORLD. 127 without giving any further interruption, while the orew enr tered the water and waded to the boat. These Indians made much the same appearance as the New Hollanders, being nearly of the same stature, with their hair cropped short. They were also, like them, stark naked. During this time they v/ere shouting at a dif tance, and letting off their fires, which seemed to be discharged by a short piece of stick, probably a hollow cane ; this being swung sideways, produced fire and smoke like that occa- sioned by 1 musket. The crew on board the ship saw this strange appearance, and thought the natives had. fire arm^. Those who went out in the boat, and had rowed abreast of them, fired some muskets over their heads, the balls of which being heard by the natives rattling among the trees, they re- treated very deliberately, and the people in the boat returned to the ship. Upon examining the lances that were thrown, it was found they were made of a reed, or bamboo cane, the points of which were of hard wood, and barbed in many places. They were light, ill made, and about four feet long. Such was the force with which they were discharged, that they went beyond the English, though they were at sixty yards distance, but in what manner they were discharged they could not determine : probably they might be thrown with a sUck, in the manner practised by the New Hollanders. This place is in latitude 6 deg. 15 min. S. The whole coast of this country is low land, but covered with a luxuriance of wood and herbage, beyond description beautiful. The caooa-aut, bread-fruit, and plantain trees all flourished here in the highest perfection, besides most of the shrubs, trees, and plants, that were common to the South Sea Islands. This day, Monday, Sep. 3rd, they made sail to the west- ward, being resolved to spend no more time upon this ooast. . , , , On Saturday, the 8th, tliey passed two small islands, on one of which Capt. Cook would have landed, but having only ten fathoms water, the ground being also rocky, and the wind •U «ibdte*S VOTA<91Si( blowing^ fresh, they might hate endangered t^e safety of the ship. Tbey now sailed at a rodderate rate till next mbr^ing at three o^clock, after which they had no ground with 130 (a- tfaonn. Before noon they had sight of land, which was con- jectured to be either the Arrou Islands, or Timor Laoet. On Wednesday, they saw a number of fires and smoke in uHvefBLl places, from whence it was conjectured that the place was well peopled. The land near the shore was co- 'vered with htgh trees, not unlike pines ; farther back were o0eoik*4rees and mangroves. It was ubserved that the hills reliched in many places quite to the sea-coast, and where that 'Was the case, there irere large and noble groves of the cocoa- liUt tree, .which ran about a mile up the country. The plan- tatidns nvere surrounded with fences, and extended nearly to thdiftrabmits of the mostlofty hills, yet neithier natives nor Settle w^re seen on any of them. Fine groves of the fan- ffailni shaded the houses from the rays of the sun. On the 10th, at ten o^clock at night, a dull reddish light was flieen in the air, many parts oi which emitted rays of a brighter colour, which soon vanished and were succeeded by others of th6 ssnnekind. This phsnomenon, which reached about ten dieg^es above the horizon, bore a considerable resemblance to the Aurora Borealis, only that the rays of light which it emitted had no tremulous motion : it was surveyed for hours, during which time its brightness continued undiminished. * As 'this ship was clear of all the islands which had been laid down in such maps as wrere on board, they made sail during the night, and were surprised the next morning at the sight of an island to the W. S. W. which they supposed was a new discovery. Before noon they had sight of houses, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large flocks of sheep. This was a welcome sight to people whose health was declining for want of refreshment, and it was instantly resolved to attempt the pwrchase of what they stood so much in need of. The second lieutenant was immediately dispatched in the pinnace in search of a landing-place ; and he took with him such ReVNn THB WORLD. t39 ^I'lQgs ^.i|t!i¥a» thought might be dccet^tabla to the hiititflt. JPuringJ^-ffS^orVs' absence, the people oik board saw two bmh on horseback upon the hil^s, who frequently stopped: to take a view of the vessel. The lieutenant soon returned with an account that he had entered a little cove, near which stood a few houses ; that several men advanced and invited him to land ; and that they conversed together as well as they could by signs. He reported that these people were very like the Malays, in person and dress, and that they had no other arms but a knife, which each of them wore in his girdle. ' The lieutenant not being able to find any place in which the ship might come to anchor, he was dispatched with money and goods to buy such necessaries as were immediately ivanted for the sick. Dr. Solander attended the lieutenant, nnd during their absence, the ship stood on and off the shore. Soon after the boat had put off, two other horsemen were seen from the ship, one of whom had a laced hat on, and was dres- ued in a coat and waistcoat, of the fashion of Europe. These men rode about on shore taking little notice of the boat, but regarding the ship with the utn^ost attention. As soon as the boat reached the shore, some other persons on horseback, and many oji foot, hastened tp,,Uie spot, and it was observed that some cocoa-nuts were put into the boat, from whence it was concluded, that a tralpc had commenced with the na- tives. A signal being made from the boat that tiie nhip might anchor ifk a bay at some distance, she immediately bore away for it. When the lieutenant csuneon board, bo reported, that he could not purchase any cocoa-nuts, as the ownier of them was absent, an4 that what he had brought were given him, in return for whiph he had presented the natives with some linen. The method by which he learned that there was a harbour in the neighbourhood, was bytiM natives drawing a kind of rude n^ap on the sand^ in which the harbour and a town near it, was represented ; it was like^^! wise hinted to him, that firuit, fowls, hogs, and sheep might be had in great abundance. He saw several of the prinoiptl c. y. 6. S Pi 190 ,fl(M>1t*ft V«tA6CS Jnliabitaatt of ihk Island, who hid ehaiM of g6iA about 'their Mokfl, and wore fine linen. The Word Portuguese being frequently repeated by the Indians, it was conjectured that 90tb» natives of Portugal were in the island, and one of the boat's orew being of that kingdom, he spoke to the islanders Jil his own language, but soon found that they had only learned a few words, of which th«'y did not know the mean- iilg. : While the natives were endeavouring to represent the situation of the town near the harbour, one of them, in order to be more particular in directions, informed the English :tbat they would see something which he endeavoured to describe by placing his fingers across each other ; and the PortUgucSie sailor took it for granted, that he could mean no- thing but a cross. When the boat's crew were on the point of returning to the ship, the gcDtleman who had been seen «n horseback, in the dress of Europe, came down to the beach ; but the lieutenant did not think it proper to hold ft conference with him, because he had left his commission on board the ship. i^:. When the ship entered the bay, an Indian town was seen at a diatanoe ; upon which a jack vas hoisted on the fore- U^<4iia8t head ; presently afterwards three guns were fired, and Dutch colours were hoisted in the town ; the ship how* ever lield on her way, and came to an anchor at seven in the ovening. The colours being seen hoisted on the beach in tbt morning, the captain concluded that the Dutch had a settlement on Uie islai^d ; he therefore dispatched his second Mtfbtensait to acquaint the goTernor, or other principal resi- dent^ who they were, and that the ship had put in for ne- acssary refreshments. The lieutenant having landed, was ieoeived by a kind of guard of something more than twenty lidnuis, armed with muskets, who after they had taken down their oolomrs from the beach, proeeedcd without the lesii niKtary order, and thus escorted Mtoi to the town, where tfae<«io|ir8 had beeil hoisted the priBceding evening. The fiaftsnaft'Wiii niiw inducted to the raja, or k\ng of the ROUND THE WORLD. 181 ifllimd, to ifhoiQi by 1099111. of a Portuguese iuterpreter, ha iBA<|» kiiowu hif business. Tbe nji^ said be was re«dj t^ supply tbe sbip with the necessary refreshments, but that ho could not trade with any other people than tbe Dutch, with whom he was in alliance, without having first obtained their consent ; he added, however, that he would make application to the Dutch agent, who was tbe only white man among them. To this agent, whose name was Lange, and who proved to be tbe person that was seen from the sbip in the European dress, a letter was dispatched, and in a few hours he came to the town, behaved politely to the lieutenant, and told him 'Ae might buy what he thought proper of the inba- bitante of the island* This offer being freely made, and reRdily accepted, the raja and Mr. Lange intimated their wishes to go on board tbe sbip, and that two of the boat*B crew might be left as hostages for their safe return. The lieutenant gratified them in both these requests, and took them on board just before dinner was served. As Dr. Solander and another gentleman on board, were tolerably proficient in Dutch, they acted as interpreters between Mr. Lange and the officers, while some of the sailors, who un- derstood Portuguese^ conversed with such of tbe raja*s at- tendants as spoke that language, i'be dinner consisted chiefly of mutton, which when the raja tasted, be requested of them an English sheep, and the only one they bad loft was presented to him. Their compliance in this particular, encouraged the king to ask for an English dog, and Mr. Banks politely gave up his greyhound. A spying glass was also put into his hand, Mr. Johan Christopher Lange having intimated that such a present would be very accept- able. Their visitors now informed them tliat the island abounded with bufikloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of which should be driven down to the shore the next day. This put them all in such high spirits that the liquor curou- lated rather fSuter than either the Indians or the Saxon eoukl ^boar; but theyhad^ kowerer, tho- rOsohition to expresia t 2 ■^ T^ 182 'C00K*S VOYAOES '^-'^ ?« desire to depart before they were quite' intoxicated. ' 'they were dismissed witli many presents, and on their departure weire saluted with nine guns. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandeir aecompanied them, and when they put oif returned thioir com- pliments with three cheers. These gentlemen on their ar- rival at the town, tasted their palm-wine, which was the fresh juice of the trees, unfermented. It had a sweet, but not dis- agreeable taste and hopes were entertained that it might contribute to recover the sick from the scurvy. The houses of the natives consisted of only a thatched roof, supported over a boarded floor, by pillars about four feet high. Wednesday, the 10th, in the morning, Capt. Cook, attend- ed by several gentlemen, went on shore to return the ri^a's visit ; but their principal intention was to purchase the cat- tle and foVj, which they had been assured the preceding day should be driven down to the beach. They were greatly chagrined at finding no steps had been taken to fulfil this promise : however, they proceeded to the house of assembly which, With a few other houses, built by the Dutch East India Company, are distinguished from the rest, by having two pieces of wood, resembling a pair of cows* horns, fixed at each end of the roof ; and these they supposed to be what the Portuguese sailor construed into crosses, from the In- dian having crossed his fingers when he was describing the town. At the house of assembly they saw Mr. Lange and the raja, whose name was A Madocho Lomi Djara, sur- rounded by many of the principal people. Capt. Cook hav- ing informed them, that he had loaded his boat with goods, which he wished to exchange for necessi ry refreshments, permission was given him to land them. They now endea- voured to make an agreement for the hogs, sheep, and Buf- faloes, which were to. be paid for in cash ; but this business was no sooner hinted than Mr. Lunge took his leave, having first told the captain that be. had received a letter from the goveiuor of Concfudia, in Tiiiior,the contents of which should be ^disclosed at. his return. As the Inorning was^now ii- » BOUND THE WORLD. l»ai futMd^nteA, and they had no fr^sh protisiiona on boaird, tUey' requested the raja*s permission to buy a small hog and some rice, and to order his people to dress the dinner. He Tery obligingly replied, that if they oould eat Tiotuals dres- sed by his subjects, which he could scarcely suppose, he mrould do himself the honour of entertaining them. A dinner being thus procured, the captain sent off his boat to bring pquors from the ship. It was ready about five o^clock, and after they were seated on mats, nvhich were spread on the floor, it was served in six and thirty baskets. They w^re then conducted by turns to a hole in the floor, near which stood a man with water in a vessel, made of the leaves of the fian-palm, who assisted them in washing their hands. This done, they returned to their places and expected the king. Having waited some time, they inquired the reason of his absence, and were informed that the person who gave the entertainment never partook of it with his guests ; but that the raja was ready to taste of what was provided, if they en- tertained a thought that the victuals were poisoned. They declared that they did not harbour any such suspicion, and desired that the custon^ of the country might not be violated on their account. ' < ' When dinner was ended, the cajitaln invited thd raja'{o drink wine with them ; but he excused himself, saying, the man who entertained his guests should never get drunk with them. The prime minister and Mr. Lange were of the party, and the English made a luxurious meal. The pork and rice were excellent, and the broth not to be despised ; but the spoons, made of leaves, were so small j that few had patience to use them. When the wine had circulated some time, they took an opportunity to inquire after the buffaloes and sheep, of which they had not yet heard a syllable, though they were to have been at the beach early in the morning. Mr. liange informed the captain that in a letter, which he pretended to have received from the governor of Concordia, imrtruetidiia weragiveU) Ihat if the ship should tofiGh at this island, and IM COOK'S yOTAOkl >tf b« in want of pfoviiiont, the «|iould be supplied ; biU he'wt* not to permit lier to remain longer tbsn vras necessary : nor were any large presents to be made to the natives of low rank, but that any trifling eivilities received from the Indiana might be acknowledged by a present of beads, or other ar- iidei of very small vaLue. It is probable that the whole of this story was a fiction ; and that by precluding our liberality to the natives, the Saxon Dutchman hoped more easily to draw all the presents of any value into his own pocket In the evening they were informed that a few sheep had been brought to the beach, which had been driven away before the oaptain oould procure money from the ship to pay for them. Some fowls however were bought, and a large quantity of syrup, msde of the juice of the palm-tree. This, though infinitely superior to molasses or treacle, sold at a very low price. Vexed at being thus disappointed, they remonstrated with Mr. Lange, who said, had they gone down to the beat themselves, they might have purchased what they pleasea ; but that the nadves were afraid of being imposed up^ou by thf peamen with counterfeit money. Although this s^ory was not credited, yet Capt. Cook repaired to the beach, but no cattle were to be seen, nor were any at hand to be bought.^ Puring his absence, Lange told Mr. Banks that the Indians were offended that gold had not been ofiered, and without which nothing oould be bought. Mr. Banks declined hold- ing fiirther conversation with a man who bad been guilty of 9Uch repeated falsities, and left him abruptly. . On the20tb,Dr. Solander went on shore with Capt Cook, and while the former went up to the town to speak to Lange, the: captain remained on flie beach with a view of purchasing provisions. Here he met with an old Indian, who appeared tp have spme authority, and had among the crew been dis- tinguiabed by the name of the prime minister. In order to c^ffof c^lhis man in their interest, the captain presented him ifl41^f^i(pyiP|^,|pUss, Nothing but a small buffalo was ofn ffir^d 4«i >e .aPfltj^ price asked was. five guiaessw neadf fOUND THB WORID. I85i twice its tmI Tftlue. Three howerer were oflered, which the dealer thought a |^d price ; but said, that he muit ac- quaint the (ring with what had been bid l>efore he could striliLe the bargain. A messenger was immediately dis- patched to inform the n^a, who on his return brought word that not less than five guineas would be taken. The captain refused to give this sum, and a second messenger was sent. During hb absence, Dr. Solander was seen coming from the town, followed hj above a hundred men, some of whom were armed with muskets, and others with lances. Upon en- buiring into the meaning of this hostile appearance, the doctor said that Lange stated that the people would not trade with them, because they had refused to give more than half the value for their commodities, and that all trade would be prohibited after that dny. The English gentlemen had no doubt but that this order of the raja was a contriyance of Lange, and while they were debating how to act in this critical conjuncture, anxious to bring the afiair to a speedy issue, Lange*s adherents began io drive away such of the natives as had brought palm-fcyrup and fbwls to sell, and others who were now bringing sheep and buffaloes to the mailEet. At this juncture Capt. Cook happening to look at the old man who htvd been distingnisbed by the name of prime mi- nister, imagiBed he saw in his features a disapprobation of the present proceedings ; and, willing to improve the advao'* tage, he grasped the Indian's hand, and gave him an old broad-sword. This well-timed present produced all the godd f I'i'i; piiopfcir. ,Tliere remained no doubti but thkt Langehadis; profit out of the two tliat were sold ; and that his reason for saying that the natires. would take nothing but gold for their cattle, was, that he might the moi'e easily share in the pro- duce. Capt. Cook purchased of the natives of this island Sonne hundred gallons of palm-syriip, a jimall quantity of garlic, a large number of eggs, some limes and oocoa-nuts^ thirty dozen of fowls, three hogs, six sheep, and nine buf>- faloes. Having obtained these necessary articles, they now prepared for sailing from this place. ^) This island is named Savu and in situated in 10 deg. 35'. min. S. latitude, and 237 deg. 30 min. W. longitude. Its length is between twenty and thirty miles ; but its brea^.Ui. cuuHd. not be ascertained. At the time the Endeavour lay there, it was near the end of the. dry season, when it had not', rained for almost seven months, nor was there a runuing streani of fresh water to be seen, and the natives were sup*, plied only by small springs, situated at a distance up the eountry. The rains in this oofuntry cease in March or April, and fall again in October or November. This island pro- duces indigo, millet, maize, tobacco, cotton, betel, tacjarinds^ limes, oranges, mangoes, guinea-corn, rice, calk vanceo. and kiftter>meloi)s. A small «?^uantity of cin&amon was seen, and some European herbs. There nre fruits of various kind^ and particularly the bliinbi, which has a sharp taste, and ia a fine pickle.. nth I' Several bufikloes were seen on this island which wereal* most as large as an ox ; and from a pair of enormous horns of this animal, which Mr Banks saw, it was supposed that some of them were much larger ; yet they did not weigh more than half as much as an ox of the same size, having lost the greater part of their flesh through the late dry weather ; the meat however was juioy, and of a delicate flavour. The horns of these animals bend backwards ; they have n<> dew- laps, and scarce ary hair on their skins, and their ears are remarkably large.. The other tame animals on theiilaid ROUND THE WORLD. 137 are dogs, cats, pigeons, fowls, hogs, goats, sheep, asses, and horses. Few of their hordes are above twelve hands high> yet they are full of mettle, and pace naturally in an expedi- tious maQner. The hogs of this country are fed on the husks of rice and palm-syrup mixed with water, and are remark- ably fine and fat. The sheep are not unlike a goat and are therefore called Cabaritos ; their ears, which are long, hang down under their horns 9 their noses are arched, and their bodies covered with hair. The fowls are of the game kind, and though they are rather large, the hen lays a very small egg. The sf^a coast furnishes the inhabitants with turtle, but not in any great abundance. The people of this island are rather below the middle sta- ture ; their hair is black and straight, ' and persons of all ranks, as well those that are exposed to the weather, as those that are not, have one general complexion, which is dark brown. The men are well formed and sprightly, and their features differ much from each other: the women, on the con- trary, have all one set of features, are very short and broad built. The men have silver pincers hanging by strings round their necks, with which they pluck out the ha'r of their beards ; and both men and women root out the hair un- der their arms : the hair of the women is tied in a club be- hind, while the men w<3ar a kind of turban of muslin, cotton, or silk handkerchiefs, but the heads of the women have no co- vering. The dress of the men consists of two pieces of cot- ton cloth, one of which is bound round the middle, and the lower edge of it being drawn pretty tight b'^^ween the legs, the upper edge is left loose, so as to form u kind of pocket, in which they carry knives and other things ; the other piece being passed under the former on the back of the wearer, the ends of it are carried over the shoulders, and tucked into the pocket before. The women draw the upper edge of the piece round the waist tight, while the lower edge dropping to the knees, makes a kind of petticoat : the other piece of cloth is fastened across the breast, and under the arms. c. V. 6. T 138 COOK*9 VOYAGES This cloth, which is manufactured by the natives, is dyed blue while in the yarn ^-and as it is of various shades, it looks Jiery beautiful. Their ornaments are very numerous, and consist of rings, beads, worn round the neck and on the wrists, and chains of plaited gold wire are likewise worn by both sexes ; but the women had likewise girdles of beads round their waists, which served to keep up their petticoats. Both sexes had their ears oored, but no ornaments were observed in any of them. One person, by way of finery, had a silver headed cane, marked with a kind of cypher, consisting of the Roman letters V. O. C. which might have been a present from the Dutch East India Company, whose mark it is. They saw boys about melve or fourteen years oldj having spiral circles of thick brass wire passed three or four times round their arms, above the elbow ; and upon the same part of the arm, some of the men had rings of ivory, two inches broad, and about one in thickness ; these were the sons of Uie raja or chief, whose high births were distinguished by these cumbrous ornaments. Most of the men had their names marked on their arms j and the women had a tsquare ornament of flourished lines imprinted just under the elbow. On enquiry it was found that tfatis practice had been common among the Indians long before they were visited bv any Europeans ; and in the neighbouring islands, it was said, the inhabitants were marked with circles upon their necks •od breasts. There was great similitude between these marks and those made by tattcwing in the South Sea islands. The houses of Savu are all built upon the same plan, but differ in size, according to the rank and wealth of the pro- prietors, being from twenty feet to four hundred, and they are fixed on posts of aoout four or five feet from the ground. One end of these is driven into the ground, and upon the other is laid a floor of wood, which makes a vacant space of four feet between the floor of the house and the ground. ROUND THE WORLD. 130 36 le "A On this floor are raised other pillars that support a r of of sloping sides, which meet in a ridge at the top, like those of our hams ; the eaves of this roof, which is thatched with palm leares, reach within two feet of the floor, and overhang it as much. The space within is generally divided lengthways into three equal parts ; the middle paii, or centre, is inclosed hy a partition of four sides, reaching about six feet above the floor, and one or two small rooms are also sometimes taken off from the sides ; the rest of the space under the roof is open, so as freely to admit the air and the light. The parti- cular uses of these apartments the English could not learn, except that the close room in the centre was appropriated to the women. '' These people eat of all the tame animals produced in the island ; but they prefer the hog to all others ; next to this they admire horse-flesh ; to which suceeds the bufialo, then poultry ; and they prefer cats and dogs to goats and sheep. Fish is not eaten but by the poor, nor by them, except when their duty or business requires them to be upon the beach. The most remaricable and useful tree that grows on the island is the fon-palm. It ises are so various, that it re- quires particular notice. At certain times it is a sucr eda- neum for all other food both to man and beast. \ kind of wine, called toddy, is extracted from tuis tree, by cutting the buds, and tying under them small baskets, made . the leaves. The juice which trickles into these vessels is eol- lected morning and evening, and is the common drink of all the inhabitants. The natives call this liquor dua or duao, and both the syrup and sugar gula. The syrup iv t unlike treacle, but is somewhat thicker, and has a more agreeable taste. The sugar is of a reddish brown, and to the taste was more agreeable than any cane sugar unrefined. It was apprehended that the syrup, of which some of the crew eat great quantities, would occasion fluxes, but the effects pro-^ duced were rather salutary than hurtful. This syrup is used to fatten hogs, dogs, and fowls ; and the inhabitants T 2 ,'r 140 COOK^S VOYAGES. i themselves have subsisted upon this alone for several months -vrhen other crops have failed and animal food has been scarce. With the leaves of this tree the natives thatch their houses, and make baskets, cups, umbrellas, and tobacco- pipes. They make least account of the fruit ; and as the buds are wounded for the tuac or toddy, there is very little produced. It is nearly of the size of a full grown turnip ; and the kernel must be eaten before it is ripe, otherwise it is so hard that the teeth will not penetrate. As fi/e-wood is scarce, the natives make a little fuel answer the ends of cookery and distillation. A hollow is dug under ground, like a rabbit burrow, in an horizontal direction, about two yards long, with a hole at each end, one of which is large, and the other small. The fire is put in at the large hole, and the small one serves for a draught. Circular holes are made through the earth which covers this cavity, on which are set earthen pots, large in the middle, and smaller to- wards the bottom, so that the fire acts upon a large part of the surface. They contain generally about eight or ten gal- lons each, and it is surprising to see with what a small quan- tity of fuel they are kept boiling. In this manner they boil all their victuals, and make all their syrup and sugar. The Peruvian Indians have a contrivance of the same kind ; and perhaps by the poor in other countries it might be adopted with advantage. In this island both sexes are enslaved by the pernicious custom of chewing beetle and areca, contracted even while they are children. With these they mix a sort of white lime, composed of coral stones and shells, to which is added fre- quently a small quantity of tobacco, whereby their mouths are rendered disgustful both to the sight ^nd'the smell ; for the tobacco infects their breath, and the beetle and lime make their .eeth both black and rotten. Many of both sexes had their fore teeth consumed almost down to the gums, and cor- roded like iron by rust. This loss of teeth has generally been attributed to the tough stringy coat of the areca nut ; ROUND THE WORLD. 141 but the English gentlemen imputed it wholly to the lime ; for the teeth are not loosened or broken, as might be the case by chewing of bard or rough substances, but they are gra- dually wasted, as metals are by powerful acids ; and they may not be mistaken who suppose that sugar has a bad efifect upon the teeth of Europeans, seeing refined sugar contains a considerable quantity of lime, and it is well known that lime will destroy bone of any kind. When the natives are not at any time chewing beetle ^and areca, they then are smoking. The manner of doing this is by rolling up a small quantity of tobacco, and putting it into one end of a tube, about six inches long, as thick as a goose quill, and made of a palm-leaf. The women in particular were observed to swal- low the smoke. This island is divided into five districts or nigrees, each of which is governed by a raja. The inhabitants are also divided into five ranks ; namely, the rajas, the land owners, manufacturers, servants, and slaves. The rajas are chief; the land owners are respected in proportion to their estates, and number of their slaves, which last are bought and sold with the estates. A fat hog is the price of a slave if sold separately. Notwithstanding a man may thus sell his slave, or convey him with his lands, yet his power does not extend farther, as he may not even strike him without the raja*s per- mission. The estates of these land-holders are of very dif- ferent extent ; some of them not possessing above five slaves whilst others have 500. When a man of rank goes abroad, one. of his slaves follows him with a silver hilted sword or hanger, ornamented with horse-hair tassels, and another car- ries a small bag containing tobacco, beetle, areca, and lime. This is all the state that even the rajas themselves take upon them. ' ' These people have a great veneration for antiquity. Their principal boast is of a long line of venerable ancestors. Those houses that have been well tenanted for successive genera- tions^ are held in the highest esteem : even the stones which 14^ Crook's voyages I ! I ha^vebeon worn smooth by having been sat upon for Bges, derive a certain value from that oircumstance. He whose progepitofs have bequeathed him any of these stones^ or whose wealth hag enabled him to purchase them, causes them tP be ranged round his habitation, for his servants and slaves io sit upoUw The raja causes a large stone to be set up in the chi^ town of eaclr district, as a moriiimeht of his reign. In the province bf Seba» thirteen' such stones weri^ seen, as well: as the temains of several others which were much worn, These stones were all placed on the top of ayhill^ and some of Ihcm were;of such an enormous size, that it was amazing by what meains they' eould have'been brought thither ; nor could any information on this head be obtained from the natives : these monuments, however, indi- cated that ioir a series of generations this island had Ueen regularly gov^rded. When a raja' dies, proclamation is made that all those who have been his subjects shall hold a solemn festival. On this they proceed to the hill where the stones ere erected, and feast fdr several weeks, killing all the animals that suit their pUrj^s^ whereVer they can be found, in order to fiirnish the trefat, which is diUly served up on tlie monumental stones. The inhabitants of ^is island are in general robust and healthy^ and had eVery mark of longevity. The small pox, however, is a distemper with which they are acquainted, and which they dread as much as a pestilence. When any per- son is attacked by it, he is oarrted ic a spot at a distance frdm the houses, where his food is conveyed to him by means of a long stick, as- no One dares to venture near him, and he is there left to live or diei ' The Portuguese very early visited this island^ on which they established a settlement, but they were soon after suc- ceeded by the Dutch, who without formally taking posses- sion of the place, sent a number of trading vessels to establish a treaty of commerce with the natives. The principal object of this treaty is, that the riyas shall furnish the Dutcii with ROVND tHE WORLD. 143 rice, maize, &c. annaally, and the Dutch in return supply them with arrack, cutlery wares, linen, silk, &c. The raja sti- pulated that a Dutch resident should be constantly on the island ; and Mr. Lange was sent thither in that capacity. He had been ten years on the island, when the Endeavour touched there, during all which time he had not seen any white persons, except those who came annually in the Dutch ▼essel, to carry oiF the rice, as aboye mentioned. He was married to a native of T'mor, and lived in the same manner as the natives of Savu, whose language he spoke better than any other. He sat on the ground like the Indians, and chewed beetle, and seemed in every thing to resemble them except in his complexion and the dress of his country. Robberies are scarcely ever committed. Murder is un- known among them ; and though no man is allowed more than one wife, they are strangers to adultery. When any disputes arise between the natives, the determination of the rajL. 3 decisive and satisfactory. Some observations were made on the language of the natives, by the gentlemen^ while the vessel lay here ; md a kind of vocabulary formed, a sketch of which is hare inserted : Momonne, a man Tooga, the thighs Mobunne, a woman Rootoo, the knees Catoo, the head Baibo, the legs Row catoo, the hair Dunceala, the feet Matta^ the eyes Kissovei yilla, the toes Rowna matta, the eye-lashes Camacoo, the arms Swanga, the nose Cataranga, the cheeks Wodeele, the ears Vato, the tongue Laeoco, the neck Soosoo, the breasts Gaboo, soosooj the nipples Dillloo^ the belly Assoc, the navel Wulaba, the hand Cabaou, a buffalo Djara, ahorse Vavee, a hog Doomba, a sheep Kesavoo, a goat Chiaca, a dog Maio, a cat Mannu, a fowl 144 COOK*S VOYAGES I Carow, the tail Pangoutoo, the beak lea, a fish Unjoo, a turtle Nieu, a cocoa-out Boaceree, fan-palm Calella, areca Canaua, beetle Aou, lime Maanadoo, a fish-hook Tata, tatau, marks on the skin Lodo, the sun Wurroo, the moon Aidassee, the sea Ailea, water Aoe, fire Maate, to die Tatee too, to rise Usse, one Lhua, two Tullu, three Uppah, four Lumme, five Unna, six Pedu, seven Arru, eight Saou, nine Singooroo, ten SinguruDgusse, eleven Lhuangooroo, 20 Singassu, 100 Setuppah, 1000 • Selacussa, 10, 000 Serata, 100,000 Sereboo, 1,000,000 Tabudge, to sleep • It is necessary to observe, that this island has not been laid down in any charts hitherto pt 'ished, and except a few facts in which the English were parties, the account here given is founded merely upon the report of Mr. Lange. About two years before the Endeavour was in these seas, a French ship was wrecked on the coast of Timor : she had been lodged on the rocks several days, when the wind tore her to pieces in an instant, and the captain,, with the greater part of the seamen were drowned; but the lieutenant and about eighty men, having reached the shore, travelled across the country of Concordia, where their immediate wants were relieved, and they afterwards returned to the wreck, in com- pany with some Dutchmen and Indians, who assisted them in recovering all their chests of bullion and other effects. This done, they returned to Concordia, where they remained f^veral weeks ; but during this interval death made such ROUND TKE WORLD. 145 / havoc araon^ them that not above half their number remained to return to their native country. On the 21st of September, the Endeavour got under gail, and bent her course westward : on the 28th, they steered all day N.W. with a view of making the land of Java, and on the 30tb, Capt Cook took into his possession the log-book and journals, at least all he could find of the officers, petty officers, and seamen, whom he strictly enjoined secrecy with respect to where they had been. At seven in the evening they had thunder and lightning, and at twelve by the light of the flashes saw the west end of Java. On the 2nd of October, they were close in with the coast of Java, along which they now steered. In the forenoon a boat was sent ashore, in order to procure some fruit for Tupia, who was at this time extremely ill. The people returned with four cocoa-nuts, and a small bunch of plantains, for which they paid a shilling, and also herbage for the cfiUle. The country had a delightful appearance, being every where covered with trees, which looked like one continued wood. About eleven o'clock they saw two Dutch East India- men, from whom they heard that the Swallow had reached the English channel in safety, having been at Batavia about two years before. At six o'clock in the evening of the 3rd, the country boats came along side, on board of which was the master of the packet. They brought fowls, ducks, parrots, turtle, rice, birds, monkeys, and other articles, with an intention to sell them, but having fixed very high prices oa their commodi- ties, few articles were purchased. The captain indeed gave two dollars for twenty -five fowls, and a Spanish dollar for a turtle, which weighed about six and thirty pounds. The master of the packet brought with him two books, in one of which he desired one of the officers would write down the name of the ship and her commander ; the place from whence she came; to what port bound; with other particulars relating to the crew, for the information of any Englishmen c. V, 7. U ^->-^*.t-«l informing him that the lieutenant had absolutely re- fused to give up the seaman, saying he was an Irishman, and of course a subject of his Britannic majesty. Capt. Cook applauded the conduct of his officer, and added, that it could \ ROUND THE WORLD. 153 not be expected that he should deliver op an English subject. The Dutch officer then said, he was authorised by the go- vernor to demand the fugitive as a Danish subject, adding that his name was entered in the sbip^s boolcs as having been born at Elsineur : to this Capt. Cook very properly replied, that the governor must have been mistaken, when he gave this order for delivering tlie deserter, who had his option whether he would serve the Dutch or the English ; but in compliment to the governor, the man should be given up as a favour, if he appeared to be a Dane, but that in ^his case he should by no means be demanded as a right, and that he would certsiinly keep him, if he appeared to be a subject of the crown of Great Britain. The Dutchman now took his leave, and had not been long gone before the captain received a letter from the commanding officer on board, containing full proof that the man was an English subject. This letter the captain carried to the shebander, desiring him to lay it before the governor, and to inform him, that the man should not be delivered up on any terms whatever. Thi» spirited conduct on the part of Capt. Cook, had the desired effect ; and thus the matter ended. \ This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen who had hitherto lived in the town, repaired on board the ship, which got under sail the next morning. The Endeavour was saluted by the fort, and by the Elgin East Indiaman, which then lay in the road ; but soon after these oompliments were returned, the sea-breeze setting in, they were obliged to come to anchor. Since the arrival of the ship inBatavia Road, every person belonging to her had been ill, except the sail-maker, who was more than seventy years old, and who had been drunk every day they remained there. The Endeavour buried seven of her people at Batavia, viz. Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors, the servant of Mr. Green the astronomer, and the surgeon ; and at the time of the vessePs sailing, forty of theisrew were sick, and the rest «• V, 7. X. i I 154 COOK*S VOYAGES ! 80 enfeebled by their late illness, as tcrbe scarcely able to do their duty. Batavia, situated in 6 deg. 10 min. S. lat. and 106 deg. 50. min. E. longitude from the meridian of Greenwich, is built on the bank of a large bay, something more than twenty miles from the Strait of Sunda, on the north side of the island of Java, on a low boggy ground* Several small rivers which rise forty miles up the country, in the mountains of Blaeuwen Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, having first intersected the town in different directions. There are wide canals of nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the banks of the canals are planted with trees, the ef- fect is very, agreeable ; but these trees and canals combine to render the air pestilential. Some of the rivers are navi- gable, more than thirty miles up the country ; and, indeed, the Dutch appear to have chosen this spot to build the town on, for the sake of water carriage, in which convenience Ba- tavia exceeds every place iu the world, except the towns of Holland. ^ The new church in Batavia, is a fine piece of building, and the dome of it may be seen far off at sea. This church is illumin.ated by chandeliers of the most superb workmanship, and has a fine organ ; most of the other public buildings are ancient, constructed in an ill taste, and gave a very complete idea of Dutch clumsiness. Their method of building their houses seems to have been suggested by the climate. On the ground-floor there is no room but a large hall, a corner of which is parted off for the transaction of business ; the hall has two doors, which are commonly left open, and are oppo- site each other, so that the air passes freely through the room, in the middle of which there is a court, which at once increases the draught of air, and affords light to the hall ; the stairs, which are at one corner, lead to large and lofty apartments above. Batavia is encompassed by a river of shallow water, the stream of which is very rapid } within this river, ;wluch is ROUND THE WORLD. 155 of different widths in Tarkous places, is an old stone wall, much decayed in many places, and within the wall is a canal, wider in some places than in others, so that there is no enter- in j? the g^tes of the town but by crossing two draw-bridges ; There is a castle in the N. E. comer of the town, and no persons are permitted to walk on the ramparts. ' u Apartments are provided in this castle for the governor- general and all the council. In the castle are likewise a number of store-houses, in which the effects of the company are deposited. The company have in their possession large quantities of gun-powder, which is kept in different places, that the lightning may not destroy the whole stock at once ; a great number of cannon are likewise laid up within the castle. There are a great many forts built in different parts of the country, several miles distant from Batavia, most probably erected to keep the natives in submission ; and, besides these, there are a number of fortified houses, each mounting eight guns, which are so stationed as to command the canals and roads on the borders. There are houses of this kind in many parts of the island of Jr.va, and the other islands in its neighbourhood, of which the Dutch have ob- tained possession. The Chinese having rebelled against them in the year 1740, all their principal houses were de- molished by the cannon of one of these fortified houses, which is in the town of Batavia, where, likewise, there are a few more of them. n^ The roads of this country are only banks between the ditches and canals, and the fortified houses being erected among the morasses near these roads, nothing is easier than to destroy them, and consequently to prevent an enemy from bringing any heavy artillery near the town ; if, indeed, an enemy be only hindered a short time in his approach, he is effectually ruined ; for the climate will preclude the neces- sity of the use of weapons for his destruction. Before the Endeavour had been a week at Batavia, her crew began to feel th^ ill effects of the climate ; half of them were rendered X2 ' .Ml 150 cook's voyages I 'I I! i I 1 i I ■ i! I ;J I I' incapable of doing their duty before th6 expiration of a moiitb. Tlkey wero informed, that it was a tery uncommon thing for 50 soldiers out of 100 brought from Europe, to be alive at the expiration of the first year, and that of the 50 who might happen to be living, not ten of those would be in sound beUtb, and, probably, not less than half of them in the hospital, x^ '4 Id the harbour of Batavia, any number of ships may an- chor, the ground is so excellent that tiie anchor will never quit its hold. This harbour is sometimes dangerous for boats, when the sea-breeies blow fresh ; but upon the whole, it is the best and most commodious in all India. There are a considerable number of islands, which are situated on the outsdde of the harbour, and all these are in the posses- sion of the Dutch, who destine them to different purposes. On one of them, which is called Purmerent, an hospital is erected, on account of the air being purer than it is at Bata- via. In a second, the name of which is Kuyper, are erected numbers of warehouses, wherein are lodged the rice and some other commodities, which belong to the Dutch East- India Company ; at this island those ships belonging to dif- ferent nations, which are to be repaired at Ourust, unload their cargoeis ; and it was here that the stores of the Falmouth man of war were laid up, when she was condemned on her return from Manilla : her warrant officers were sent to Europe in some Dutch ships about half a year before the Endeavour anchored in the road of Batavia. A third of these islands, the name of which is Bdain, is appropriated to the reception of certain offenders, whose crimes are not deemed worthy of death, and thither they are trans^rted from Holland, and detained from five to forty years, in pro- portion to the heinousness of the offence they have commit- ted: making of ropes is the principal part of the employment of these criminals. .'.^nA-; '^ The environs of Batavia have a very pleasing appearance, and would, in any other country, be «tt enviable situation. H ■. z ROUND THE WORLD. 157 Gardens and bouses occupy the ccuntry for several miles ; but the former are so covered wiUi trees, that the advantage of the land havuig been cleared of the iivood that originally covered it, is almost wholly lost, ivhile these gardens and the fields adjacent to them are surrounded by ditches Mrhioh yield a disagreeable smell; and the bogs and morasses in the adjacent fields are still more ofTensive. For the space of 30 miles beyond the town, the land is totally flat, except in two places, on one of which the governor's country seat is built, and on the other they hold a large market ; but neither of these places is higher than ten yards from the level of the plain. At near 40 miles from the town, the land rises into hills, and the air is purified in a great degree ; to this distance the invalids are sent by their physicians, when every other prospect of their recovery has failed, and the experiment succeeds in most instances, for the sick are restored to health ; but they no sooner return to the town, than their former disorders revisit them. On these hills, the most opulent of the inhabitants have country seats, to which they pay an annual visit. Those who reside constantly on the hills, enjoy an almost perpetual flow of health, and most of the vegetables of Europe grow as freely there as in their own native ground : the strawberry in particular flourishes greatly, which is a suflicient proof of the coolness of the air. The fruits of this country are near forty in number, and of some of these there are several kinds. Pine-apples grow in such abundance, that they may be purchased, at the first hand, for the value of an English farthing ; the crew bought some very large ones for a halfpenny a-pieee at the fruit shops, and their taste is very excellent. They grow so luxuriantly, that seven or eight suckers have been seen adhering to one stem* The shaddocks of the West^Indies, called here pamplemooses, have an agreeable flavour* Lemons were veiy scarce when the Endeavour lay in the harbour, but limes were altogether as plentiful, and sold at little more than two-pence the score. There are many kinds 158 COOK*S VOYAGES '''] of oranges and lemons, but none of them excellent. Tbe pompions are boiled as turnips, and eaten with salt and pepper. This fruit is admirably adapted to voyagers, as it will keep many months, without care, and makes an excellent pie, when mixed with the juice of lemons and sugar. The papans of this country are superior to turnips^ if the cores are extracted, after paring them when they are green. The guava has a strong smell, and a taste not less disagreeable : it is probable, that the guava of the West- Indies, which many writers have distinguished by their praises, has a different flavour. The cocoa-nut is plentiful in this country, and there are several kinds of this fruit, the best of which is very red between, the shell and the skin. The jamboo is' a fruit that has but little taste, but it is of a cooling nature : it is considerably less than a common sized apple, and those that have grown to their full size, are always the best ; its shape is oval, and its colour a deep red. The pomegranate in these parts differs in nothing from that in England. The durion takes its name from the word Dure, which, in the language of that country, means prickles, and the name is well adapted to the fruit, the shell of which is covered with sharp points, shaped like a sugar-loaf: its contents are nuts not much smaller than chesnuts, which are surrounded with a kind of juice resembling cream ; and of this the inhabitants eat with great avidity : the smell of this fruit is more like that of onions, than any other European vegetable, audits taste is like onions, sugar, and, cream intermixed : the inside of the durion, when ripe, is parted, lengthways, into several divisions. At Batavia vast quantities of fruit are eaten. There are two markets held weekly, at distant places, for the. accom- modation of those who reside in different parts of the country. Here the fruit-sellers meet the gardeners, and purchase the goods at low rates. They were told that it is not uncommon to see fifty or sixty loads of pine-apples carelessly thrown together at those markets. Flowers are strewn by the inha- ROUND THE WORLD. 150 bitants of Batavia and Java, about their houses, and they are constantly burning aromatic woods and gums, which is supposed to be done by way of purifying the air from the stench that arises from the canals and ditches about the town. In this country sweet-scented flowers are plentiful, many species of which being entirely unknown, are worth remark- ing. The combang tonquin, and oombang carenassi, are particularly fragrant flowers, which bear scarcely any resemblance to any of those flowers with which we are ac- quainted. They are very small, and seem to be of the dog's*bane species. The camunga, which is more like a bunch of leaves than a flower, is of a singular smell, but Tery grateful. The bontanjong is of a pale yellow cast, and has a very agreeable smell ; it is about an inch and a half in cii jumference, and consists of pointed leaves, which give it the appearance of a star. The champacka smells some- what like a jonquil but is rather of a deeper yellow. A large tree upon the island produces this flower. There is also an extraordinary kind of flower called fundal malam, which signifies the intriguer of the night. This flower has no smell in the day-time, but as night comes on, it has a very fragrant scent, and is very much like the English tuberose. These flowers being made into nosegays of dif- ferent shapes, or strung upon thread, are carried through the street for sale on an evening. The gardens of the gen- tlemen produce several other sorts of flowers besides these which have been mentioned, but they are not ofiered to sale, because tbiere is not a sufficient plenty of them. A plant, called the pandang, is produced here, the leaves of which being shred small, and mixed with other flowers, the natives fill their dotheaiand hair with this mixture, which they likewise sprinkle on their beds and sleep under this heap of sweets, a thin piece of chintz being their only covering. Formerly the onl^ spice that grew on the island of Java was pepper. A considerable quantity is brought from thence as leo COOK^S VOYAGES I I by the Dutob, but very little of it in made me of ia the country. , The inhabitants prefer cayan pepper, and are fond of oloYefl and nutmegs, but the first are too dear to be commonly used. Near the island of Amboyna are some little isles, on ^hich the cloves grow, and the Dutch were not easy till they all became their property. The island of Java, which has been already spoken of, produces horses, buffaloes, sheep, goats, and hogr>. The horned cattle of the country are different from those of Europe. They are quite lean, but of a very fine grain. The Chinese and the natives of Java eat the buffalo's flesh, which the Dutch constantly refuse, being impressed with an idea that it is feverish. The sheep are hairy like goats, and have long ears : they are mostly found to be tough aud ill-tasted. There happening to be a few from the Cape of Go^d Hope at Batavia, some of tiiem were purchased at the raie of one shilling a pound. The hogs, especially those of the Chinese stock, are very fine food, and so fat that the lean is separately sold to the butchers, who are Chinese; the fat they melt and sell to .their countrymen to be eaten with their rice. The Portuguese shoot the wild hog^ and deer, which are sold at a moderate price, and are good eating. The goats Are as indifferent as tht sheep* Dogs and cats are found in great abundance, and th«re are numbers of wild horses at A considerable distance from Batavia^ on the mountains. Offish an astonisliing quantity is taken, and all are fine food, except a few that are searoe ; yet the inhabitants will not eat those found in abundance, but purchase those which are worse and scarcer, a circumstance that contributes to keep up the price of the latter. A prejudice likewise pre- vails among the Dutch whicli prevents them from eating any of the turtle caught in these parts, which are very good food, though not equal to those that are found in the West- Indie?. Very large lizards are common at Batavia ; some of them are said to be as thick as a man*s thigh and Mr. ■Jjk'.'ti'.i ;>iu ' —- -- ».-'" ROUND TAB WORLD. 101 Btnki ihdt one fire feet \ongf which heing drest^ provad very agreeable to the taste. In Jara, the religion of Mahomet ia profeased, for which reason the natiTet do not make use of wine publicly ; but in private few of them will refine it. They also chew opium, whose intoxicating qualities proTe its recommendation to the natires of India. If the Chinese, and the Indians of different nations who in<« habit Bata via and its environs are excluded, the inhabitants amount to a small number, not a fifth part of whom are sud to be Dutchmen even by descent* The Portuguese out- number all the European settlers on the island. The troops in the service of the states of Holland, are composed of the natives of almost all the nations of Europe ; but the greater part of them are Germans. When any person goes to reside at Batavia, he is obliged to enter as a soldier, to serve their company for five years. Afterwards he applies for leave of absence to the council, which being granted as a thing of course, he engages in any business that he thinks proper to choose ; the Dutch have thus always a force ready to arm and join their troops in this country upon any emer- gency. All places of power and profit are held by the Dutch, and no foreigner has any share in the management of public afiairs. .( It appeared the whole place could not furnish fifty females who were natives of Europe ; yet the town abounded with idiite women, who were descended from Europeans that had settled there at different times, all the men having paid the debt of nature. These women follow the delicate custom of chewing beetle, after the example of the native Javanese, whose dress they imitate, and whose manners they copy, in all respects. Mercantile business is conducted at Batavia with the slightest trouble imaginable. When a merchant receives an order for goods of any kind, he communicates the cont^ts of it to the Chinese, who are the universal manufacturers. The Chinese agent delivers the effects on c. V. 7 Y 169 COOK*S vovAoes board the ihip for which they are beipoke, and Ukltig a receipt for them from the master of the Teasel, deliven it to the merchant, who pays the Chinese for the goods, and reserTes a considerable profit, without the least trouble, risque, or anxiety. But when a merchant imports goods of any kind, he receives them himself, and lodges them in his own warehouses. The Portuguese of Batavia are so only in name : for they have neither any connection with, or know- ledge of the kingdom of Portugal ; but with the manners of the natives, they are familiar, and commonly speak their language, though they are able to converse in a corrupt kind of Portuguese. They dress in the habit of the country, with a difference oiily in the manner of wearing the hair ; their noses are more peaked and their skin of a deeper cast than that of the natives. Some of them are mechanics and artificers, others subsist by washing of linen, and the rest procure a maintenance by hunting. The Indians of Batavia, and the country in its neighbour- hood, are not native Javanese, but are either born on the se- veral islands from whence the Dutch bring their slaves, or the ofispring of such as have been born on those islands ; and these having been made free either in their own persons or in the persons of their ancestors, enjoy all the privileges of freemen. The various other Indian inhabitants of this coun- try attach themselves each to the original customs of that in which themselves or their ancestors were born-; keeping themselves apart from those of other nations, and practising both the virtues and vices peculiar to their own countries. The cultivation of gardens, and the consequent sole of flowers and fruit, afford subsistence to a great number of them. Some of the Indians are very rich, keep a great number of slaves, and live, in all respects, according to the custom of their respective countries ; while others are employed in car- rying goods by water ; and others again subsist by fishing. They sometimes make very superb entertainments, after the fashion of their respective countries ; but, in general, they ROUND THK WORLD. 103 f If mre a very temperate people. Of wine, they drink very little, if any, at the religion of Mahomet, which they profess, for- bids the use of it. When a marriage is solemnised among them, all the gold and siWer ornaments that can be procured, are borrowed to deck out the young couple* who on these occasions ncTer fail to make the most splendid appearance. A number of absurd customs pretail among these people^ and opinions no less ridiculous. They beliave that the de« Yil, whom they call Satan, is the author of sickness and ad- versity ; therefore, when sick, or in distress, they offer meat, money, and other things, as propitiatory sacrifices. Should one among them be restless, or should he dream for two or three nights successively, he imagines the devil has laid his commands upon him, which if he'neglects to fulfil, he con- cludes his punishment will certainly be sickness or death, though such commands may not be revealed with sufficient perspicuity. To interpret his dream, therefore, he strains his wits to the uttermost, and if, by taking it literally or figu- ratively, direqtiy or by contraries, he can put no explanation that saUsfies him, he applies to the cawin or priest, who un- ravels the suggestions of the night by a comment in which it generally appears Satan wants victuals or money. Mr. Banks once asked, whether they thought Satan spent the money, or <«at the victuals ; they said, that as to the money it was considered rather as a mulct upon an offender, than a gift to him who had enjoined it ; and that therefore if it was devoted by the dreamer, it did not signify into whose hands it . camej and they supposed it was generally the prize of some stranger who wandered that way ; but respecting the meat, they were clearly of opinion, that, although the devil did not eat the gross parts, yet by bringing his mouth near it, lie sucked oUt all its savour without changing its position, so that afterwards it was as insipid as water. i> Another superstitions notion of this people is still inore unaccountable. They ima^ne that women, when delivered of children, are at the same tiue delivered of a young croeo- Y 2 164 cook's voyages dile ; and that those animals beings received carefully by the midwivesy are immediately carried down to the riter, and put into the water. The iamily in which such a birth b supposed to have happened, constantly puttt victuals into the river for their amphibious relation, especially the twin> who, as long as he lives, goes down td the riter at stated times, to fulfil his fraternal duty ; for an omission of which, accord- ing to the general opinion, he will be visited with sickness or death, it will not be easy to account for all opinion so extravagant and absurd, especially as it Beems to be uncon^ nected with any religious mystery, and how it should be pretended to happen by those who cannot be deceived into a belief of ii by appearances, nor have any apparent interest in the fraud, is a problem very difficult to solve. The strange belief oi* this absurdity, however, is certain, for which there is the concurrent testimony of every Indian who was questioned about it ; and as to its origin, it seems to have taken its rise in the islands of Celebes and Boutou, at which places, many of the inhabitants keep crocodiles in their families ; but however that may be, th;f opinion has Spread over all the eastern islands^ even to Timmr and Ceram, and westward as far as Java and Sumatra. The crocodile twins are called Sudaras, and the foUowin^s; is one of the innumerable and incredible stories, related amoiir them of their existence, as was confidently affirmed, from ocular demonstration, this relation will shew their cre^- dulity. At Benooolen was born and bred among the English % young female slave, who had learnt a little of the Unguage. This girl told Mr. Banks that her father, when on his death bed, informed her that he had a crocodile for his Sudara, and in a solemn manner charged her to give hisp meat when he should be dead, telling her in what part of the river he was to be found, and by what name he vi as to be called up. That in consequence oi her fathered iitjunctious, she re- paired to that part of the river he hari described, and stand- *. j£ JIOUND THE WORLD. 165 in^ tipori the bank) called out radja pouti, " white king ;'* whereupon the crocodile came to her out of the water^ and eat from her hand the proTisions she had brought him. Being desired to describe this paternal uncle, she said, that he was not like other crocodiles, but much handsomer, that his body was spotted and his nossred; that he had bracelets of gold upon his feet, and ear-rings of the same metal in his ears. This ridiculous tale was heard by Mr. Banks pa- tiently to the end, and he then dismissed the girl with reminding her that a crocodile with ears was as strange a monster as a dog with a cloven foot. Not long after this a servant whom Mr. Banks hired at Batavia, a son of A Dutchman by a Javanese woman, told his master, that he had seen a crocodile of the same kind, and it had been seen by several ethers, both Dutchmen and Malays. This crocodile the servant said was very young, two feet long, and its feet were ornamented with bracelets of gold. I cannot credit these idle stories, said Mr. Banks ; the other day a person asserted that drooodiles had ear-rings^ and you know that cannot be true, because crocodiles have noeftrs. Ah, sir, replied the man, these SudaraOran are unlike other crocodiles ; for they have five toes upon each koot, a large tongue that fills their mouth, and ears like- v^lse, though indeed they are very small. Who can set bounds to the ignorance of credulity and folly ! However, ill the girPs relation were some things in which dhe Could not be deceived; and therefore must be guilty of wilful falsehood. Her father might command hei* to feed a croco« dile, in consequence of his believing it to be his Sudara ; but its coming out of the river at her call, and eating the food from her hand, snwt have been a fable of her own in- vention, and being such, it was impossible that she dould believe it to be true. However, the gitVs story, and that of (he man*8, evinces that Uiey both believed the existence of crocodiles that were Sudaras to men ; and the fllotion invented by the girl may be easily accounted for, if we do 106 COOK*S VOYAGES I II t I. J but consider, how earnestly every one desires to make others believe what be believes himself. The Bougis, Macassars;, and BoetonSy are so firmly persuaded that they have rela- tions jof the crocodile species, that they perform a periodical ceremony in remembrance of tbem. Large parties go out in a boat, furnished with great plenty of provisions, and all kinds of music. They then row backwards and forwards, in places of the river where crocodiles and alligators are most common, singing and weeping by turns, each invokitig his kindred till a crocodile appears, when the music instantly stops, and provisions, beetle, and tobacco, are thrown into the water. The Chinese stand in the next rank to the Indians, and are numerous, but possess little property. Many of them live within the walls, and are shop-keepers, but the far greater part live without the walls, in a quart«;r by them- selves, which is called Campang China. Most part of them are carpenters, joiners, smiths, taylors, slipper-makers, dyers of cotton, and embroiderers. They maintain the character of industry universally bestowed upon them ; and many are scattered about the country, where they cultivate gardens, sow rice and sugar, or keep cattle and buffaloes, whose milk they bring every day to town Yet notwithstanding their commendable spirit of industry, there is nothing honest or dishonest, provided there is no danger of a halter, that the Chinese will not readily do for money ; and though they work with much diligence, nor are sparing of their labour, yet no sooner have they laid down their tools, than they begin to game either at cards or dice, or at other diversions altoge- ther unknown to the Europeans. To these they apply with such eagerness, as scarcely to sllow time for necessary re- freshments of food and sleep. In mauccrs they are always obsequious ; and in dress they are remarkably neat and clean, in whatever rank of life th'^y are placed. The food of the poor is rice, with a small proportion of flesh or fish ; and they have the advantage of the Mahometan Indians on account ROUND THE WORLD. 167 of their religion ; for the Chinese, being under no restraint, eat, besides pork, dogs, cats, frogs, lizards, serpents, and a great v ariety of sea animals, which the other inhabitants do not consider as food. They also eat many vegetables, which an European, except he was perishing with hunger, would not taste. They have a singular custom respecting the burying their dead ; for tiiey cannot be prevailed upon to open the ground a second time, where the body has been deposited. On this account, in the neighbourhood of Batavia, their bury • ing-grouuds contain many hundred acres ; and tlie Dutch pretending this to be a waste of land, will not sell any for this purpose .. t at an exorbitant price. The Chinese, however, contrive to raise the purchase money, and aJOTord another in- stance of thefoHy and weakness of human nature, in trans* ferring a regard for the living to the dead, and making that an object of solicitude and expence, which cannot receive the least benefit from either. Under the influence of this uni- versal prejudice, they take an uncommon method to preserve the body entire, and to prevent the remains of it from mixing with the earth that surrounds it. To this end they enclose it in a large thick wooden coffin, hollowed out of solid tim- ber like a canoe. Th):> when covered and let down into the grave, is surrounded with a coat (>( mortar, called chinara, about eight or ten inches thick, whi ;h in a ;»hort time cements, and becomes as hard as stone. Tl \e ^elative^s of the deceased attend the funeral ceremony, with a considerable number of female mourners, hited to weep. In Batavia, the law re- quires, that every man should be interred according to his rank, which is in no case to be dispensed viith ; so that if the deceased has not left sufEcient to pay his debts, an officer takes an inventory of what was in his possv^ssion when he died, and out of the produce buries him in the manner pre- scribed, leaving only the overplus to his creditors. The lowest class of people in this country are the slaves, J)y whom the Dutch, Portuguese, and Indiaas, whatever their rank uv situation, a/e constantly attended. They are bought IdB OOOK*S YOYAOBS ' II in almoti %\\ tho £aafern Islands ; but the natiYef of Java are exempted from siavery» under the sanction of severe penal laws, which are seldom violated. Being of an indolent dis- position) they will not do much work, and are therefore con* tent with a little victuals, subsisting altogether upon boiled rice, and a small quantity of the cheapest fisli. They are natives of different countries, on which account they differ from each other extremely both in person and temper. The African negroes are the worst, most of them are thieves, and incorrigible ; consequently they may be had for the least money. The next class to these are the Bougis and Ma- cassars, both from the island of Celebes ; who in the highest degree are lazy, though not so much addicted to theft as the negroes ; yet they are of a cruel and vindictive spirit, whereby they are rendered exceedingly dangerous, especi- ally as to gratify their resentment, they make no scruple of sacrificing life itself. Besides these there are Malays, and slaves of other denominations : but the best, and of course the dear subject to an appeal to the Dutch tribunal. The taxes laid upon these people by c. V. 8. Z i .1. ! ' ■. \ m 1 r:< 11 Pi i I: i; 170 cook's voyages the company are very considerable, among which, that ex« acted for liberty to wear their hair is not the least. The time of payment is monthly, and to save the charge and trouble of collecting them, notice is given of this by hoisting a flag upon the top of a house in the middle of the town, and the Chinese find that it is their interest to repair thither when a payment is due without delay. On Thursday, the 27th of December, early in the morn- ing, the ship left the harbour of Batavia, and stood out to sea. On the 29th, after much delay by contrary winds, they wea- thered Pulo Pare, and stood for the main. On the same day passed a small island between Batavia and Bantam called Maneater's island. On the morning of new year's day, Tuesday, Janiiary the 1st, 1771, they steered for the Java shore, and continued their course, as the wind permitted, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the 5th, when they cast anchor on the south- east side of Prince's Island, to recruit their stores, and pro- cure refreshments for the sick, many of whom were much worse than they were at their departure from Batavia. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, accompanied by the captain and other gentlemen, went ashore. They met upon the beach some Indians, by whom they were conducted to one, who, they said, was their king. Having exchanged a few com- pliments with this person, they entered upon business ; bnt in settling the price of turtle they could not agree. Upon this the Indians dispersed, and the English proceeded along shore in search of a watering place. They happily succeed- ed in a very convenient one, and had reason to believe, with care in filling, it would prove agreeable to their wishes. On their return, some Indians, who remained with a canoe upon the beach, sold three turtles, but they were obliged to promise tliat they would not tell the king. On Sunday, the 6th, they renewed with better success their traffic for turtle. About noon the Indians lowered their demands slowly, inso- mucli, that before the evening they accepted the stipulated I s ROUND THE WORLD. 171 •tie. so> ted price, and turtle were plenty. In the raean time, the three purchased vrere served to the ship^s company, who had not fed on salt provisions from the time of their arrival at Savu, which was now near three months. Mr. Banks, in the evening, paid a visit to the king, by whom he was received very graciously at his palace, in the middle of a rice field, notwithstanding his majesty was busily employed in dressing his own supper. The day following, Monday the 7th, the Indians resorted to the trading place with fowls, fish, monkeys, small deer, and some vegetables ; but no tur- tle appeared till next day, Tuesday the 8th, after which some were brought to market every day, while they staid, but the whole quantity together was not equal to that bought the day after their arrival. Friday, the Ilth, Mr. Banks having received intelligence from a servant he had hired at Batavia, that the Indians of this island had a town situated near the shore, to the west- ward, he determined to go in search of it. With this view he set out in the morning, accompanied by the second lieu- tenant ; and apprehending his visit might not be agree- able to the natives, he told such of them as he met, that he was in search of plants, which was indeed also true. Hav- ing come to a place where there were three or four houses, they met with an old man, of whom they ventured to make a few inquiries concerning the town. He would have persua- ded them, that it was at a great distance ; but perceiving they proceeded forward, he joined the company, and went along with them. The old man attempted several times to lead them out of the way, though without success : but when at length they came within sight of the houses, he entered cordially into their party, and conducted them into the town, the name name of which is Samadang. It consisted of about four hundred houses^ divided by a brackish river into two parts, one called the old, and the other the new town. When they had entered the former, they were accosted by several Indians whom they had seen at the trading place z2 172 cook's voyages Hi n H n ;l and one of them undertook to carry them over to the new town, at two-pence per head. The bargain being made, they embarked in two small canoes, placed along-side each other, and lashed together, to prevent their over-setting. They landed safely, though not without some difficulty ; and when they came to the new town, the people shewed them every mark of a cordial friendship, shewing them the houses of their king and principal people. Few of the houses were open at this time, the inhabitants having taken up their resi- dence in the rice-grounds, to defend their crops against the birds and monkeys, who without this necessary precaution would destroy them. When their curiosity was satisfied, they hired a large sailing boat for two rupees, value four shillings, which conveyed them to the ship time enough to dine upon one of the small deer, weighing only forty pounds, which proved to be exceeding good and savoury food. In the evening they again went on shore, to see how the people went on, who were employed in wooding and watering, when they were told that an ax had been stolen. Application was immediately made to the king, who, after some altercation, promised that the ax should be restored in the morning, and it was accordingly brought by a man who pretended that the liiief, afraid of a discovery, had left it at his house in the night. On Sunday, the 13th, having nearly completed their wood and water, Mr. Banks took leave of his majesty, to whom he made several trifling presents, and at parting gave him two quires of paper, which he graciously accepted. During their conversation, the king inquired why the English did not touch at the island as they used to do ? Mr. Banks repli- ed, that the reason is, he supposed, because they found a deficiency of turtle, oi vhich there not being enough to sup- ply one ship, many could not be expected ; and to supply the defect, Mr. Banks advised his majesty to breed cattle, bufialoes, and sheep, ; but he did not seem disposed to adopt this prudent measure. i ^ ROUND THE WORLD. 173 1- a On Tuesday, the 15th, in the morniug, they weighed, with a light breeze at N. E. and stood out to sea. Princess Island, where they were stationed about ten days, in the Malay language called Pulo Selan, and in that of the inha^* bitants Pulo Paneitan, is a small island, situated in the west- ern mouth of the strait of Sunda. It is woody, a very small part of it having been cleared. They could perceive no re- markable hill upon it ; but a small eminence, just over the landing place, has been named, by the English, the Pike. Formerly this place was much frequented by India ships be- longing to various nations, especially from England ; but of late they have forsaken it, because the water is bad, and touch either at North Island, or at New Bay, a few leagues distant fron) Princess Island, at neither of which' places any con- siderable quantity of other provisions can be procured. The first, second, and perhaps the third ship that arrives here in the season, may be well supplied with turtle, but such as come afterwards must be content with small ones. In this island the inhabitants are Javanese, and their raja is subject to the Sultan of Bantam. They profess the Maho- metan religion ; but not a mosque was seen in the whole island. While the Endeavour lay here they kept the fai»t called by the Turks Ramadan, with extreme rigour, not one of them touching a morsel of victuals, nor would they chew their beetle till sun-set. Their food is the same with that of the Batavian Indians, except the addition of the nuts of the palm, by eating of which, upon the coast of New Hol- land, some of the crew were made sick, and some of the hogs were poisoned. They inquired by what means these nuts were deprived of their noxious deleterious quality, and were informed, that they were first cut into thin slices, and dried in the sun, then steeped them in fresh water for three months, and afterwards, pressing out the water, dried them a second time in the sun. The houses of these people are built upon piles, or pillars, and elevated about four or five feet above the ground. Upon 174 COOK*t VOYAGES 11 li these is laid a floor of bamboo canes, at such a distance from each otheri as to leave a free passage for the air from below. The walls also are of bamboo, interwoven hurdlewise, with small sticks, and fastened perpendicularly to the beams which form the frame of the building ; it has a sloping roof, so well thatched with palm-leaves, that neither the sun nor rain can And entrance. The ground-plot, upon which the building is erected, is an oblong square. On one side is the door, and in the space between that and the other end of the house, in the centre, towards the left hand, is a window. A partition runs out from each end of the house, which conti- nues so far as to leave an opening opposite the door. Each end of the house therefore, to the right and left of the door, is di- vided into two apartments, all open towards the passage from the door to the wall on the opposite side. In that on the left hand, next to the door, the children sleep ; that opposite to it is for the use of strangers ; in the inner room, on the left hand, the master and his wife sleep ; and that opposite to it is the kitchen. The only difference between the poor and the rich, with respect to these houses, consists in their size. It is worthy of observation, that the Malay, the Javanese, and the language in Princess Island, have words, which if not exactly similar to those used in the South Sea islands, are manifestly derived from the same source ; but the simi litude in these languages was more remarkable in words expressing number, which seem to prove that they have 0*3" common root. In the month of February, the Endeavour held on he course, and made the best of her way for the Cape of Good Hope ; the fatal seeds of disease, the people had imbibed at Batavia, began now to appear with the most alarming symp- toms, in dysenteries and slow fevers. In a short time the ship was little better than an hospital ; many were in the last stage of the destructive disorder, and almost every night a corpse was committed to the sea. Mr. Banks was among the number of iJOA Wi^ audlor some time his life was de- ROUND THE WORLD. 175 spaired of. In the course of six weeks they buried Mr. Sport- ingi ft gentleman of Mr. Banks*8 retinue, Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter, Mr. Green the astronomer, the boatswain, the carpenter and his mate, Mr* Monkhouse the midshipman, the sail-maker and his assistant, the cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenters crew, a mid- shipman, and nine sailors ; in all three and twenty persons, besides the seven that had been buried in Batavia. Such was the havoc disease made among the ship's company, though they omitted no means, which might prevent the infection from spreading. Friday, the 15th of March, about ten o'clock P. M. the ship came to an anchor off the Cape of Qood Hope. Capt. Cook repaired immediately to the governor, who cheerfully promised him every refreshment the country afforded ; on which a house was hired for the sick, and it was agreed that they should be lodged and boarded for two shillings each man a day. At the time the Endeavour lay at the Cape of Good Hope, the Houghton Indiaman sailed for England. She had buried near forty of her crew, and when she left the Cape, had many of her hands in 9 helpless condition, occasioned by the scurvy. Other ships also experienced a proportionable loss by sickness ; so that the sufferings of the Endeavour were comparatively light, considering they had been absent near three times as long. They continued at the Cape till the i3th of April, to recover the sick, procure stores, and do some necessary work upon the ship and rigging ; and on Sunday, the 14th, having taken leave of the governor, unmoored, and got ready to sail. Thf: air at the Cape of Good Hope is salutary in a high degree ; so that those who bring diseases from Europe generally recover health in a short time ; but the diseases that are brought thither from India are not so certainly cured. The weather at the Cape may be divided into two seasons, namely, the wet monsoon, and the dry monsoon ; ^ \r 1^ > IMAGii EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^/ ^ .<.^ A* ::^ 1.0 1.1 li^lM |25 ij2 |2j2 12.2 2.0 \\25 lllll 1.4 III 1.6 — 6" Hiotograpbic ^Sciences Corporalion 23 WIST MAIN STMIT VVI1STIR,N.Y. 14SM (716)«72-4S03 ^^U 4^. ^"^2 ^C^^ o'^ ,f the rank of gentlemen nre always admitted. The stature of the Hottentot men is from five to six feet in height, their bodies are proportionable, and well made: they are seldom either too fat or lean, and scarce ever any crooked or deformed persons amongst them, any farther than they disfigure their children themselves by flatting and breaking the gristles of their noses, looking on a flat nose as a beauty. Their heads, as well as their eyes, a/e rather of the largest ; their lips are naturally thick ; their hair black and short like the negroes, ai d they have exceeding white teeth : and after they have taken a great deal of pains with grease and soot to darken their natural tawny complexions, resemble the negroes pretty much in colour. The heads of the men are covered with grease and soot mixed together; and going without any thing else on their heads in the summer- time, the dust sticks to it, and makes them a very filthy cap, which they say cools them, and pre- serves their heads from the scorching heat of the sun ; and in the winter, they wear flat caps of cat-skin or lamb-skin, half dried, which they tie with a thong of the same leather under their chins. The men also wear a krosse or mantle, made of sheep skins, or other skins, over their shoulders, which reaches to the middle; and being fastened with a thong about their neck, is open before. In winter they turn the woolly or hairy sides next 4heir backs, and in summer the other ; this serves the man for his bed at night ; and this is all the winding sheet or coffin he has when he dies. If he be a captain of a village, or chief of his nation, instead of a sheep-skin, his mantle is made of tyger-skins, wild cat-skins, or some otiicr skins that they set a value ROUND THE WORLD. 179 upon : but though these mantles reach no lower, generally, than their waists, yet there are some nations who wear them as low as their legs, and others that have them touch the ground. Like the Tartars and Arabs, they remove their dwellings frequently for the conveniency of water and fresh pasture : they encamp in a circle formed by twenty or thirty tents, and sometimes twice the number, contiguous to each other ; within the area whereof they keep their lesser cattle in the night, and the larger on the outside of their camp : their tents, or, as some call them, houses, are made with slender poles, bent like an arch, and covered with mats or skins, and sometimes both : they are of an oval figure, the middle of a tent being about the height of a man, and decreasing gradually (the poles being shorter) towards each end, the lowest arch, which is the door or entrance, being about three feet high, as is the opposite arch at the other end ; the longest diameter of the tent being about twelve or four- teen feet, and the shortest ten ; and in the middle of the tent is a shallow hole about a yard in diameter, in which they make their fire, and round which the whole family, consisting of nine or tec people of all ages and sexes, sit or lie night and day in such a smoke (when it is cold, or they are dressing of victuals) that it is impossible for an Euro- pean to bear it, there being usually no vent for the smoke but the door, though some have seen a hole in the top of some of their huts, to let out the smoke, and give them light. Such a circle of tents or huts as have been described, is called by the Hottentots a kraal, but sometimes by the Euro- peans a town or village ; but seems to be more properly a camp : for a town consists of more substantial build...gs, and is seldom capable of being removed from one place to another ; whereas these dwellings consist of nothing more than small tent-poles, covered with skins or mats, which are moveable, and carried away upon their baggage oxen whepev^r they remove to a distant pasture. As to tlie fur- "^ ' A a 2 I 180 OOOR*S VOTilOBS niture of their tdnttt, they consist of Kttle more than fheif mantles ^hioh they lie on, some other skins of wild beasts they have killed or purchased, an earthen pot they boil their meat in, their arms, and perhaps some other trivial utensils. The only domestic animals they keep, are dogs, as ugly in their kind as their masters, but exceeding use- ful to them in driving and defending their cattle. The arms of a Hottentot are, 1. His lance, which resem- bles a half-pike, sometimes thrown, and used cs a missive weapon ; and at others, serves to push with in close fight, the head or spear whereof is poisoned. 2. His bow and arrows, the arrows bearded and poisoned likewise, when they engage an enemy or wild beast they do not intend for food. Their bows are made of iron, or olive-wood ; the strings of the sinews or guts of some animal ; the quiver is a long narrow case, made of the skin of an elephant, elk, or ox, and slung at their backs, as soldiers sling their knapsacks. 3. A dart of a foot long, which they throw exceeding true, scarce ever missing the mark tbey aim at, though it is not above the breadth of half a crown : these are also poisoned, when they engage an enemy or a Wild beast that is not to be eaten : and lastly, when they have spent the rest of their missive weapons, they have recourse to stones, seldom making a discharge in vain ; and, what is most remarkable in their shooting or throwing arrows^ darts, or stones, they never stand still, but are all llie while skipping and jumping from one side to the other, pos- sibly to avoid the atones and darts of the enemy. The Hottentots, in war, have very little conception of discipline, nor indeed is it possible they should ; for the only method of raising an army, is for the kraal captains tO order the people to follow them ; the only method of main- taining one is by hunting as they march ; and the only way of deciding a dispute between two nations, is, by fighting one battle, the success of which determines the whole aflkir. In an engagement, they attack with an hideous yell, fight ROUND THE WORLD. 181 in ^reat confosioo, and put more confidence in their war oxen tlien their own skill ; for these animals, when trained to the husiness, are better disciplined and much more for- midable) than the Hottentots themselres. Instances are not wanting of a Hottentot*s engaging singly with the fiercest wild beasts, and killing them ; but usually the whole kraal or tillage assemble, when a wild beast is discovered in their neighbourhood, and, dividing themselves into small parties, endeavour to surround him. Having found their enemy, they usually set up a great cry, at which the frighted animal endeavours to break through and escape them : if it prove to be a rhinoceros, an elk, or elephant, they throw their lances at him, darts and arrows being too weak to pierce through their thick hides : if the beast be not killed at the first discharge, they repeat the attack, and load him with their spears ; and, as he runs with all his rage at the persons who wound him, those in his rear follow him close, and ply him with their spears ; on which he turns again, but is overpowered by his enemies, who constantly return to the charge, when his back is towards them, and scarce ever fail of bringing the creature down, before he has taken his revenge on any of them. How ha- zardous soever such an engagement may appear to an Euro- pean, these people make it their sport ; and have this advan- tage, that they are exceeding swift of foot, and scarce ever miss the mark they aim at with theur spears : if one of them is hard pressed by the brute, he is sure to be relieved by his companions, who never quit the field till the beast is killed, or makes his escape : though they sometimes dexterously avoid the adversary, they immediately return to the charge, subduing the fiercest either by stratagem or force. When attacking a lion, or a tyger, their darts and arrows are of service to them ; and therefore they begin the engagement at a greater distance, than when they charge an elephant or rhinoceros ; and the creature has a wood of darts and arrows upon his back, before he can approach his enemies, which 182 COOK^S VOYAGES makes him fret and rage aud fly at them with tlie greatest fury ; but those he attacks, nimbly avoid his paws, while others pursue him, and finish the conquest with their spears. Sometimes a lion takes to his heels, with abundance of poi- soned darts and arrows in his flesh ; but, the poison begin- ning to operate, he soon falls, and becomes a prey to those lie would have preyed upon. The elephant, the rhinoceros, and the elk, are frequently taken in traps and pitfalls without any manner of hazard. The elephants are observed to go in great companies to water, following; in a file one after ano- ther, and usually take the same road till they are disturbed : the Hottentots therefore dig pits in their paths, about eight feet deep, and four and five over ; in which they fix sharp stakes pointed with iron, and then cover the pit with small sticks and turf, so as it is not discernable : and as these animals usually keep in one track, frequently one or other of them falls in with his fore feet into the pit, and the stakes pierce his body ; the more he struggles, the deeper the weight of his monstrous body fixes him on the stake : when the rest of the herd observe the misfortune of their companion, and find he cannot disengage himself, they immediately abandon him ; whereupon the Hottentots, who lie concealed, in expectation of the success of their strata- gem, approach the wounded beast, stab him with their spears, and cut his largest veins, so that he soon expires ; whereupon they cut him to pieces, and carrying the flesh home, feast upon it as long as it lasts. His teeth they make into rings for their arms, and, when they have any ivory to spare, dispose of it to the Europeans. The rhinoceros and elk are frequently taken in pitfalls, as the elephants are. The Hottentot, who kills any of these, or a lion, leopard^ or tyger, singly, has the highest honour conferred upon him, and several privileges, which belong only to suchintre* pid heroes. The manner of the Hottentots swimming is particular, for he stands upright in the sea, and rather walks and treads the ROUND THE WORLD. 193 If ater, than swims upon it, his head, neclc, and shoulders being quite above the waves, as well as his arms, and yet they move faster in the water than any European can ; even in a storm, when the waves run high, they will venture into the sea, rising and falling with the waves like a cork. When the father of a family is become useless and superan- nuated, he is obliged to assign over his stock of cattle, and every thing else he has in the world, to his eldest son ; and in default of sons, to his next heir male : after which the heir erects a tent or hut in some unfrequented place, a distance from the kraal or camp he belongs to, and having assembled the men of the kraal, acquaints them with the condition of his superannuated relation, and desires their consent to ex- pose him in a distant hut ; to which the kraal scarce ever refuse their consent. Whereupon a day being appointed to carry the old man to the solitary tent, the heir kills an ox, and two or three sheep, and invites the whole village to feast and be merry with him ; and at the end of the entertainment, all the neighbourhood come and take a formal leave of the old wretch, thus condemned to be starved or devoured by wild beasts ; then the unfortunate creature is laid upon one of their carriage oxen, and carried to his last home, attended to the place where he is to be buried alive by most of his neighbours. The old man being taken down, and set in the middle of the hut provided for him, the company return to their kraal, and he never sees the face of a human creature afterwards. In the same manner they deal with a superan- nuated mother ; only as she has nothing she can call her own, she has not the trouble of assigning her effects to her sou. Their language is very inarticulate and defective ; one word signifies several things, the definitive meaning being determined by the manner of pronouncing; and the pronun- ciation is so harsh and confused, that they seem to stammer in all they speak. Hence, though they are easily taught to 184 000K*8 VOYAOBS understand other langnages, they can seldom be brought to speak them with any degree of intelHgibility. On Sunday, the 14th of April, in the morning, the Endea- Tour left the Cape, and on Thursday the S5th, Mr. Robert Mollinenz, a youth of good parts, died. They continued their voyage without any remarkable incident; and on Monday the 30th, crossed the first meridian, hairing cir- vumnavigated the globe from E. to W. and consequently lost « day, for which, upon correcting their reckoning at Batavia, they made allowance. On Monday, the Ist o( May, they came to anchor before Jameses fort in the Island of St He- lena, and Mr. Banks omployed his time in visiting the most remarkable places, and in surveying every object of no- tioe. St. Helena is situated in the Atlantic oeean, in six de- grees W. longitude, and sixteen S. latitude, almost in the midway between Africa and America, being twelve hundred «r*'i^ dastanit from the former, and eighteen hundred from ; latter. It was so named by the Portuguese, who disoo- itesed it OB St. Helen's day. This island is 80 miles long, 18 bvoad, niid about 4i\ in eircnmference. It is the summit •f an iaamense mountsin rising eai of the sea, and of a dcfith unfarthomaUe at a small distance round It. It may be idis- oerned at sea, at thtyre twenty leagues distance, and ilsisks like A castle in the middle of the loocean, whose natural Notwithstanding the island appears a barren roclc on every side, yet' on the top it is covered with a fine layer of earth, producing grain, fruits, and herbs of rarious kinds ; and the country, after ascending the rock, is diversified with rising hills and plains, plantations of fruit trees, and kitchen gardens, among which the houses of the natives are inter- spersed, and in the open fields, are herds of cattle grazing, some of which are fatted to supply the shipping, and the rest furnish the dairies with milk, butter and cheese. Hogs, goats, turkeys, and all manner of poultry also abound, and the seas are well stored with fish. But amidst all this af- fluence, the people have neither bread nor wine of their own growth ; for though the soil is proper for wheat, yet the rats that harbour in the rocks, and cannot be destroyed, eat up all the seed, before the grain is well out of the ground ; and though their yines flourish and produce them grapes enough, yet the latitude is too hot for making wine. This therefore they have from the Canaries, the Madeiras, or the Cape, as well as their flour and malt. Their very houses are some of them brought from Europe, ready framed, there bdng no timber on the island, trees not taking deep root here on account of the rock that lies so near the surface : however, they have underwood enou^ for neces* sary uses. Besides grapes, they have plantains, bananas, figs, lemons, and such other fruits as hot countries usually produce. They also raise kidney beans, and some other kinds of pulse in their gardens ; and the want of bread they supply with potatoes and yams. In the year 1701, there were upon the island about two hundred families, most of them £nglish, or descended from English parents. Every family has a house and plantation on the higher part of the island, where they look after their cattle, fruits, and kitchen garden. They scarce ever cone down to the town, unless it be to church, or when the -'litp- ROUND THE WORLD. 187 *)ing arrive, when most of the houses in the valley are con- verted into punch-houses, or lodgings for their guests, to whom they sell their poultry, and other commodities ; but they are not suffered to purchase any merchandise of the ships that touch here. Whatever they want of fore>4;n growth or manufacture, they are obliged to buy at the com- pany*! warehouse, where twice every month, they may furnish themselves with brandy, European or Cape wines, Batavia arrack, malt, beer, sugar, tea, coffee, china, and japanned ware, linen, calicoes, chintz, muslins, ribbons, woollen-doth, and stuffs, and all manner of clothing, for which they are allowed six cr^onths credit. Among the very few native productions of this island must be reckoned ebony, though the trees are now nearly extinct. Pieces of this wood are frequently found in the Tallies of a fine black colour, and a hardness almost equal to iron ; these pieces, however, are so short and crooked, that no use can be made of them. ' The Portuguese, who discovered this island in 1502, stored it with hogs, goats and poultry, and used to touch at it for water and fresh provisions in their return from India ; but we do not find they ever planted a colony here ; or, if they did, having deserted it afterwards, the English East-India Company took possession of the island A* D. 1600, and held it till 1673, without interruption, when the Dutch took it by surprise. However, the English, com- manded by Capt. Munden, recovered it again within the space of one year, and took three Dutch East-India ships that lay in the road at the same time. The Hollanders had fortified the landing place, and planted batteries of great guns to prevent a descent ; but the English being acquainted with a small creek where only two men could go abreast, climbed up to the top of the rocks in the night time, and appearing next morning at the b^ks of the Dutch, they threw down their arms without striking a stroke : but this creek has been since fortified, so that there is now no place B b 2 188 cook's voyages "Where an enemy can make a descent with any probability of success. The affttirs of the East-India Company are managed here by a governor, deputy-governor, and storehouse-keeper, "who have certain settled salaries allowed, besides a public table, well furnished, to which all commanders, masters of ships, and eminent passengers are welcome. The natives sometimes call the result of their deliberations, severe impo- sitions ; and though relief might perhaps be had from the company in England, yejt the unavoidable delays in return- ing answers to addresses at that distance puts the aggrieved under great hardships ; and on the other hand, was not the situation of this island very serviceable to our homeward- bound East-India ships, the constant trouble and expence would induce the company to abandon the island; for though it is furnished with the conveniences of life, the merchants find no other profitable commodities there. The masters of the plantations keep a great many blacks, who, upon severe treatment, hide themselves for two or three months together, keeping among the rocks by day, and roving at night for provisions : but they are generally dis- covered and taken. ' • ' *»' ' The children and descendants of white people hv.ye not theieast red in their cheeks, in all other places near the tropics, but the natives of St. Helena are remarkable for their ruddy complexions, and robust constitutions. Their healthfulness may, in general, be ascribed to the following causes. They live on the top of a mountain always open to the sea breezes that constantly blow here; they arc usually employed in the most healthful exercises of garden- ing and husbandry ; th*:; island is frequently refreshed with moderate cooling showers ; and no noxious fens, nor salt marshes annoy thorn. They are used also to climb the steep hill between the town in Chapel-valley and their planta- tions ; which hill is so steep, that having a ladder in the middle of it, they caU it Ladder^hill; and this cannot be ROUND THE WORLD. 180 avoided without going three or four miles about ; so that they seldom want air or exercise, the great preservers of health. As to the genius and temper of these people, they seemed to be the most hospitable people ever met with of English extraction, having scarce any tincture of avarice or ambition. Some of them were asked if they had no curiosity to see the rest of the world, and how they could confine themselves to so small a spot of earth, separated at such a distance from the rest of mankind ? They replied, that they enjoyed the necessaries of life in great plenty ; they were neither parched with excessive heat, or pinched with cold ; they lived in perfect security ; in no danger of enemies, of robbers, wild beasts, or rigorous seasons ; and were happy in the enjoyment of a continued state of health : that as there were no rich men among them (scarce any planter being worth more than a thousand dollars) so there were no poor in the island, no man being worth less than four hun- dred dollars, and consequently no^ obliged to undergo more labour than was necessary to keep him in health. Having sufficiently recruited their stores, on Saturday, the 4th of May, the ship weighed, and sailed out of the road in company with the Portland man of war, and his convoy, consisting of twelve sail of East Indiamen. With ibis fleet they continued their course for England until Fri- day the 10th, when perceiving they out-sailed the Endea- vour and consequently might make their port before them, Capt. Cook, made the signal to speak with the Portland, upon which Capt. Elliot came on board the En- deavour ; to whom a letter for the Admiralty was delivered, with a box, containing the common log books of the ship, and the journals of some of the officers. The Endeavour did not lose sight of the fleet till Thursday the 23rd, and about one o*clock in the afternoon they lost the first lieu- tenant, Mr. Hicks, an active, skilful and judicious officer. He died of a consumption, of which lingering disorder he discovered some symptoms when he left England ; so that 190 GOOK*S VOYAGES. it might be said, that he was dying the whole voyage ; his decline was very gradual till he arrived at Batavia^ from whence to the time of his dissolution, the slow con- suming disease gained strength daily. The whole ship's company attended the funend rites, and in the evening committed his body to the sea with the usual ceremonies. The next day the captain appointed Mr. Charles Clark, a young man, to act in the romn of Mr. Hicks. They now drew near th^r desired haven, and held on their course without any material occurrence, till Monday, the 10th of June, when to their great joy, Nicholas Young, the boy who first discovered New Zealand, called out land from the mast head, which proved to be the liiard. The next day, being Tuesday, the eleventh, they proceeded up the channel. On Wednesday, the 12th, with the pleasing hopes of seeing their relatives and friends, exciting sensations not to be described by the pen of the most able writer, they passed Beachy Head. At noon, they were a breast of Dover, and about three o'clock, P« M. came to an anchor in the Downs. Whoever considers the situation of the Enderrour during this voyage in cases of danger the most imminent, particularly when encircled in the wide ocean, with routs of coral, her sheathing beaten off, and her false keel floating by her side, a hole in her bottom, and the men by tarns fainting at the pumps, cannot but aeknowiedge the existence of a partiouUf Pi^^idence. The history of Joseph can only afford a more striking instance of the interposition of a divine invisible hand. This our countrymen experienced; and the orew of the Endeavour acknowledged, that the hand of a Superior Power was particularly ooneemed in their pnitection and deliveranoe. This Mnniteient and omni- potent power, it is the ineuidbent du^y •f ever christian to believe, confide in and adore. i! ^ •! •' THE 8IB(0SIID T(I>irA(BIB ,''i OF CAPT. JAMES COOK ROUND THE WORLD. TH;E king'B expectations were not answered by former dtscoTeries, and therefore his majesty Go9» III. pro- jected this second voyage of Gapt. Cook, and the Navy- board was ordered to equip two sudi ships as were most suita- ble to the service. Accordingly two vessels were purchased of Capt. WUilam Hammond, of Hull, being about sixteen months old. They were both built at Whitby, by the same person who built the Endeavour. The largest of the two, named the Resolution, burthen fioor hundred and sixty-two tons, was sent to Deptford to be fitted out ; vid the Adven- tUM, ft vessel of three hundred and thirty-six tons, was e<|ptipped at Woolwich. On the 28th of November, 1771, Capt. Cook was appointed to the command of the Resolu- tion; and Tobias Furneaux, who had been second lieutenant with Capt. Wallis, was promoted to the command of the Adventure. The Resohition had one hundred and twelve liands on board, officefs included : and the Adventure had eighty •one. The two ships were ordered to be got in readiness with the utmost expedition, and botii the Navy and Victualling 192 COOK^S VOYAGES boards paid an uncommon attention to their equipment. Capt. Cook sailed vvith greater advantages in this expe- dition, than any of his predecessors who had gone out before on discoveries ; probably no future commander wiil ever have a commission of a more liberal kind, nor be furnished with a greater profusion of the very best stores and pro- visions. He had the frame of a vessel of twenty tons, one for each ship, to serve occasionally, or upon any emergency, as tenders ; he had on board fishing-nets, lines and hooks of every kind ; he was supplied with innumerable articles of small value, adapted to the commerce of the tropical islands : he had on board additional clothing for the seamen, particu- larly suited to a cold clknate, to all which were added the best instruments for astronomical and nautical observations ; in which were included four time-pieces on Mr. Harrison's principles, constructed by Messrs. Arnold and Kendal* And that nothing might be wanting to procure information, and that could tend to the success of the voyage, Mr. William Hodges, a landscape painter, was engaged for this impor- tant undertaking, accompanied by Mr. (afterwards Dr.) Job''. Reinhold Foster and Son, who were thought the most proper persons for the line of Natural History, to which they were appointed with parliarilentary encouragement. Mr. William Wales, and Mr. William Bailey, were likewise engaged to make astronomical observations; the former being placed by the board of longitude, in the Resolution, and Mr. Bailey in the Adventure. A number of medals were also struck by order of the Lords of the Admiralty, intended to be left as presents and testimonies in new discovered countries. ^ The two ships were victualled and provided with all man- ner of necessaries for a three years* voyage ; among which were the following ^xtra articles : 1 Malt, for sweet wort, designed for those whose habit of body might engender the scurvy, and as a remedy for such who might be afflicted with that disorder. The quantity prescribed for each patient, ROVHD THE WORLD. 103 from one to six pints a d*y, at the discretion of tlie surgeon. 3. Sour Icrout, of wliich eaoti seaman was to l>e alto>Wed two pounds a weelc. Tliis is caU>age salted down, and cilose paclced in casks, after having been properly fermented. It is esteemed by our navigators an exeellent antiscorbutic. 8. Cabbage cut small and salted down, to which is added juniper berries, and anniseeds, which are likewise put to the sour krout. 4. PortiLble soup, very nourishing, and of great utility both for invalids, and those that are in go: d health. 5. Oranges, rob of lemons, and satoup, for the use of the surgeons, to be administered to the sick and scorbutic only. 6. Marttialade of carrots, recommended by Baron Storch of Berlin, as a very great antiscorbutic ; but it did not as such answer their expectations. This syrup is extracted from yeHow carrots, by evaporating the finer parts, till it is brought to the consistence of treacle, which it much resembles both in taste and colour. 7. Juice of wort and beer, inspissated as the foregoing article, and intended to supply at times the place of beer, by mixing it with water. For this they were indebted to Mr. Pelham, Secretary of the l/lctttaUing Office ; the commissioners of which ordered thurty-one half barrels of this juice to be pre- pared for trial ; nineteen where<^f were stowed in the Reso«> lution, and' twelve on board the Adventure. Thus all the oenTeniences necessary for the preservation of health during a long voyage, w^re provided in aibuadttnce ; and even ■ome alterations were made in the custdttiary articles of pTOVisioBS : wheat being substituted in thelfoom of a quan- tity of oatmeal, and sugfar instead of oil. A voyage attended with such extraordinary preparations, patronised by parliament, as well as royal bounty, and the excoution superiiitended by the first officers of the Admiralty, the Navy, and by Capt. Cook himself, might with propriety be pronounced the most important ever performed in any age, or by any country ; and it may be also with truth asserted, that the able navigator nmde choice of by his ma- c. v. 0. C c 194 eOOK'S VOYAGES jesty, was equal to the task on which he was embarked. Every person who has read the account of his first voyage cannot but admire his skill, his fortitude, his care of bis men, his vigilance in attending to the minutest intima- tions of former navigators, his perseverance amidst the dangers and hardships of rigorous seasons, his prowess in leading his company as they were capable of proceeding ; in short, his conduct throughout, which while he kept every man singly in strict obedience tp his duty, he conciliated the affections of all, and secured their esteem. , Capt. Cook received from the board of Admiralty bis instructions, dated the 95th of June, the tenor and substance of which were, that the Adventure was to be under his com- mand ; that the two ships were to proceed to the island of Madeira, from thence to the Cape of Good Hope ; that having at this place refreshed the ships* companies, and supplied them with provisions and other necessaries, they >vere to make the best of their way to the southward, in search of Cape Circumcision, which by M. Bouvet is said to be in latitude 54 deg. S. and in about II deg, 20 min. £^ longitude, from the Royal Observatory in the Park at Greenwich ; that if they fell in with this cape, Capt. Cook was to endeavour, by all means in his power, to discover whether the same was part of the supposed continent, which had so much employed the national attention of different European powers, or only the promontory of an island : that in either case, the gentlemen on board the two ships were diligently Co explore the same, to the utmost extent possible ; and make such observations of various kinds, as might correspond with the grand object in view, and be in any respect useful to either navigation or commerce ; not omitting at the same time proper remarks on the genius and temper of the inhabitants ; whose friendship and alliance they were directed to conciliate, by all prudential means in their power : that they were to proceed on new discoveries to the eastward or westward, as the captains might judgQ M . V ,i ROUND THB WORLD. 105 most eligible, endeavouring only to run into as high a lati« tude, and as near the south pole as possible : that nvhat- eyer might be the result of their investigations with respect to Cape Circumcision, they were to continue their surveys to the southward, and then to the eastward, either in search of the said continent, should it not have been ascertained, or to make discoveries of such islands, as might be seated in the hitherto unexplored and unknown parts of the southern latitudes : that, having circumnavigated the globe, they were to return to Spithead by the way of the Cape of Good Hope ; and that to answer the intentions of government in tliis voyage as fully as possible, when the season of the year rendered it unsafe to continue in high latitudes, thiey were to repair to some known port to the northward ; and after having refitted, &c. they were to return again, at the proper season to the southward, in prosecution of new discoveries there. It may not be amiss here to observe, that these orders were not intended tc cramp Capt. Cook, who was allowed, in case the Resolution should be lost, to continue his voyage in the Adventure : he had to this end assistants out of number : his stay was not even hinted at : he was not obliged to return at any limited time; in short he had ample power, full authority, and in all unforeseen cases, he was to proceed according to his own discretion, and act entirely as he pleased. It may be proper to observe, that in the history of this voyage, Greenwich is made the first meridian, and from thence the longitude is reckoned £. and W. to 180 deg. each way. It may also be proper^ to notice, that whenever the initial letters, A. M. and P. M. of ante-meri- dianum, and post-meridianum, are used, the former signi- fies the forenoon, and the latter the afternoon of the same day. '" ^ A copy of the above instructions were transmitted to Capt. Furneaux, inclosed with Capt. Cook's orders, in which he appointed, should the two ships be separated, the Island of Madeira for the first place of rendezvous; Port c c 2 w ne COOK^S VOYAGES Praya for the seeond ; the Cape of Good Hope for the third } and New Zealand for the fourth. ,;,, While they remained at Plymouth, Mr. Wales and Mr. Bayley made observations on Drake*s Island} when the lati- tude was found to be 50 deg. 91 min. 30 sec. N. and the lon- gitude 4 deg. 90 rotn. W. of Greenwich ; whereby the true time for putting the time-pieces and watches in motion was ascertained. This was done on the 13th of July, and they were set a going, in the presence of the two astronomers, Capt. Furneaux, Capt. Cook, and the two first lieutenants of the ships. These had ^ach of them keys of the boxes whioh contained the watches, and were always to be present at the winding them up, and comparing the one with the other, unless prevented by indisposition. This day, the ships' crews, according to the custom of the navy, received two months* wages in advance* As a further encouragement, and that Uiey might provide necessaries for the voyage, they were Ukewise paid the wages due to them to the 28th of the preceding May. On Sunday, the 19th of July, the Resolution broke from bet moorings in the Sound, and was adrift together with the transport buoy to which she was fastened. All hands were on deck instantly, the cables were cleared, and the sails spread. The ship passed the Adventure, and came to an anchor, after having escaped the very apparent danger of being dashed against the rooks that are under the fort. This favourable event was looked upon by the seamen as an omen of the success of the voyage. It was undoubtedly an instance of the care of Divine Providence exerted for their protection in so eritioal a moment. On Monday the 13th the ships left Plymouth : as they stood off shore, the wind increased, and the billows rolled higher and higher, and most of the seamen were afieoted with sickness. When in sight of Cape Fioisterre, they met a small French tartan from'Marseilles, freighted with flour from Ferrd and Corunna, and obtained from them a small ROUIfP THE WORLD. 197 supply of fresh tfater» which they much wanied, having beea obliged to subsist on bread and wine. On the 22nd, in the afternoon, they passed two Spanish men of war, one of which fired a shot at tiie Adventure to bring her to ; but on hailing her, and being told they were king's ships, made an apology, and took their leave, wishing them a good voyage. On Wednesday, the 30th, they anchored in Funchiale road, in the island of Madeira. The captain went on shore, accompanied by the twb Mr. Forsters, and were conducted by Mr. Sills, a gentleman from the vice- consul, to the house of Mr. Loughnans, a considerable English merchant, who assisted them with every thing the island and his house afforded, during their stay. The Madeira, or Madera Islands are only three in num- ber: namely, Madeira properly so called; the Island of Puerto, or Porto Santo ; and Isla Deserta, or the Desolate Isle. They were thi ) named from the principal of them, which was called by the Portuguese Madeira, signifying a wood or forest, from its being overgrown with trees. They were first discovered by an English gentleman, and many years afterwards by the Portuguese ; and as there is some- thing singular in both these occurrences, but more particu- larly the first, it may be entertaining to relate the curcum- stanoes. . In the reign of fMward III. king of England, a young gentleman, named Robert Machin, conceived a violent passion for Ann D* Arfet, a beautiful and accomplished lady of a noble family. Machin, with respect to birth and for** tune, was inferior to the lady ; but his personal qualifications overcame every scruple on that account, and she rewarded his attachment with a reciprocal affection. Her friends, however, beheld the young gentleman in a different light ; they faneied their blood would be contaminated by an alli- ance with one of a lower rank, and therefiM'e determined to sacrifice the happiness of the young lady, to the hereditary pride of blood, and their own mercenary and inter^ted 198 COOK.*S VOYAOBS tnoiives. In consequenoe of these ideas^ a warrant was proeured from the king, under the sanction of which Machin was apprehended, and kept in close confinement, till the object of his affections was married to a nobleman, whose chief merit lay in his honorary title and large posses- sions ; and immediately after the nuptial ceremony was over, the peer took his beautiful bride with him to a strong castle which he had in the neighbourhood of Bristol, and then the unfortunate lover was set at liberty. After being released from his cruel confinement, MachiQ was acquainted that his mistress had been compelled to give her hand to another. This rendered him almost frantic, and he vowed to revenge the violence done to the lady, and the injury he himself had sustained ; and with this view, im- parted his design to some of bis friends and companions, who engaged to accompany him to Bristol, and assist him in whatever enterprise he undertook. Accordingly one of his comrades contrived to get himself hired by the nobleman as a servant, and by that means being introduced into the family, he soon found an opportunity to let the lady know the sentiments and intentions of her lover ; when she fully en- tered into all his projects, and promised to comply with whatever he should propose. To facilitate their designs the lady appeared more cheerful than usual, which lulled asleep every suspicion that her lord might otherwise have enter- tained ; she also entreated permission to ride out daily to take the air for the benefit of her health, which request her consort easily granted. This point being gained, she did not fail to take advantage of it, by riding out every morn- ing accompanied by one servant only, which was her lover^s companion, he having been previously pitched upon always to attend her by her own contrivance. ^-'^ Matters being thus prepared, she rode out one day as usual, when her attendant conducted her to his friend, who waited at the sea side to receive her. They all three im- mediately entered a boat, and soon reached a ship that lay. ROUND THE WORLD. 100 at some distance ready to receive thbm ?on board ^. and Machin, having the object of his wishes on board, immedi- ately set sail, intending to proceed to France ; but all on board being ignorant of maritime ufTairs, and the wind blowing a hard gale, they missed their port, and the next morning, to their astonishment, found themselves driven into the main ocean. In this miserable condition, they aban- doned themselves to despair, and committed their fates to the Liercy of the waves. Without a pilot, almost destitute of provisions, and quite devoid of hope, they were tossed about for the space of thirteen days. At length, when the morning of the 14th day began to dawn, they fancied they could descry something very near them, that had the ap- pearance of land ; and when the sun rose, to their great joy they could distinctly perceive it was such. Their pleasure, however, was in some measure lessened by the reflection, that it was a strange country ; for they plainly perceived it was covered with a variety of trees, whose nature and ap- pearance they had not the least knowledge of. Soon after this, some of them landed from the sloop, in order to make their observations on the country ; when, returning soon after to the ship, they highly commended the place, but at the same time believed there were no inhabitants in it. i. The lover and his mistress, with some of their friends, then landed, leaving the rest to take care of the ship. The country appeared beautifully diversified with hills and dales, shaded with various trees, and watered by many clear meandering streams. The most beautiful birds of different species perched upon their heads, arms, and hands, unap- prehensive of danger ; and several kinds of wild beasts approached, without offering any violence to them. After having penetrated through several woody recesses, they entered a fine meadow admirably encircled with a border of laurels, finely enamelled with various flowers, and happily watered with a meandering crystal rivulet. Upon an eminence in the midst of this meadow, they saw a lofty 90D OOOfTs tDYA«Sf iprtadhig tvee^ the beiaatjr of wMch invited tliem to repose underit88tiade,aiMlpartftlce of the slieUer it would aflTord them from the piercing rays of the sun. They at length attempted to malce a temporary residence beneath the tree ; and pro- Tiding themselves with boughs from the neighbouring woods, they built several small huts or arbours. They passed their time Tery agreeably in this place, from whence they made frequent excursions into the neighbouring coun- try, admiring its strange productions and various beauties. Their happiness, however, was of no Tery long continuance ; for one night a terrible storm arose from the N. E. which tore the ship from her anchor, and drove her to sea. The crew were obliged to submit to the mercy of the elements, when they were driven to the coast of Morocco, where th« ship being stranded, the whole crew were made captives by the Moors. > • Machin and his companions, having missed the ship the next morning, they concluded sbe had foundered, and was gone to the bottom. TMe new cakmity plunged them into the deepest meiancboly, and so affected the lady, that she could not support herself under it. She had indeed before oontfaiuaHy fed her grief, by sad presages of the enter- prisers ending in some fatal catastrophe to all concerned ; bnt the shook «f the last disaster strwck her dumb ; so that she expired in three days afterwards, in the most bitter agoniee. The death of the lady affected Machin to such a degree, that he survived her but four days, notwithstanding the Qtmost r:MleaToura of his companions to aflbrd him con- solation. Previous to bis death he begged them to placo his body in the same g^ve with her's, which they had made tit the foot of an altar, erected under the beantifnl lofty tree before-mentioned. They afterwards placed upon it a large wooden crost : and near that an Inscription, drawn up by Machin himself, containing a soceinet account of the whole adventure; and eoneleding vrith a request, that if any Christians should come thitber to settle, that they would ROUND THE WORLD. 301 build hiid dedicate « thuroh to Jmns Christ upon that spot. The remaining companions of Machin, after his death, deter- mined to attempt returning to England in tlie sbop, nvhich had heen so nvell secured near the shore, as not to be in the least damaged by the storm which had driven away the sliip. But, happening to take the same course the others had been forced upon, they unfortunately arrived in like manner upon some part of the coast of Morocco, 'Where they met exactly the same fate, being seized in a similar manner and carried to the same primn. Here they met with several other Christian slaves, besides their own com- panions ; particularly one John de Morales, a Spaniard of Seville. This man was an excellent sailor, and took a peculiar delight in hearing the English captives rehearsd their adventures, by which means he learnt the situation and particular marks of this new discovered country, which he took care to retain in his memory. In process of time, John 1. king of Portugal, having entered into a war with the Moors, passed over into Africa with a formidable army ; and in the year 1415 laid siege to and took Ceuta. In this expedition, he was accompanied by his sons, one of whom, prince Henry, took great delight in the study of the mathematics, particularly geography and navigation. Upon this occasion he had a great oppor- tunity of conversing with the Moors and African Jews ; and informing himself, by their means, of the situation of seve- ral foreign countries, the seas about them, their coasts, &o. Hence grew an insatiable thirst for making new con- quests ; and from this time he was determined to devote his attention to the discovery of unknown countries. In consequence of which resolution, he retired, after the reduc- tion of Ceuta, to the Algarves, where he found a new town within a league of Cape St. Vineent, erected a fort to defend it, and determined to send out ships frotn thence on disco- veries. The person he intended to employ as chief com- tflander, upon these occasions, was a gentleman of extraor- c. v. 0. D D ^02 cook's voyages dinary abilities, i|,ained Juan Gonsalvo Zarco, who became famous not only for his maritime discoveries, but for being the first person who introduced the use of artillery on board ships. In 1418 he discovered Puerto Santo, one of the Madeiias ; and in 1420 he passed the straights, and sur- veyed a considerable extent of the coast of Africa. In the mean time, a Spanish prince dying, left by his will a large sum /of money for the purpose of redeeming Spanish Chris- tians, who were kept as slaves in Morocco. Terras being agreed upon between the emperor of Morocco and the com- missioners, for the redemption of those captives, a Spanish ship was sent to Morocco to fetch home the redeemed Christians, among whom was John de Morales before-men- tioned. On the return of this ship to Spain, it happened to fall in with the squadron of Juan Gonsalvo Zarco, who was, as we have just noticed, then passing the straights to make observations on the coast of Africa. Spain and Portugal being at this time at war, Juan Gonsalvo Zarco made prize of the Spanish ship ; but finding it contained only redeemed captives, he was touched with compassion at the miseries they had already suffered during their slavery, and gene- rously dismissed them, taking out only John de Morales, whom he found to be a very intelligent person, an able sailor, and an expert pilot. 'When Morales was informed of the reason of his deten- tion, and the discoveries that the Portuguese were upon, he was mightily rejoiced, and offered voluntarily to enter into the service of prince Henry. He then told the Portu- guese commander, of the island which had been discovered by the English, related the story of the unfortunate lovers, and every other circumstance, which, during his captivity, he had heard from Machines companions. Gonsalvo was so much delighted with his relation, that he tacked about, and returned to the new town which prince Henry had built, called Terra Nabal. On his arrival, he introduced .Morales to the prince, when the Spaniard again repeated nOUND THE WORLD. 203 all that he had told to Juan Gonsalvo. The prince thought this worthy of becoming a national affair ; and therefore, communicating the whole to the king his father, and the Portuguese ministry, they determined to pursue the disco- very; and for that purpose fitted out a good ship, well manned and provided, and a sloop tfo go with oars, when occasion required, and Juan Gonsalvo was appointed to take the command of the whole. Some Portuguese, on the discovery of Puerto Santo a short time before, had been left by Gonsalvo on that island ; and judging by the account of Morales, concerning the situation of the island they were in quest of, that it could not be far from Puerto Santo, he determined to sail thither ; where when he arrived, the Portuguese whom he had left behind, informed him, that they had observed to the north-east a thick impenetrable darkness, which constantly hung upon the sea, and extended itself upward to the heavens. That they never knew it to be diminished ; but a strange noise, which they could not account for, was often heard from thence. v^^ ..*;»• John de Morales appeare i to be convinced that this was the island they were in search of; and Juan Gonsalvo was inclined to coincide with him ; but all the rest were terrified at the accounts they had heard. It was therefore concluded to remain at Puerto Santo till the change of the moon, to see what efiect that would have upon the shade, or whether the noise would cease. But perceiving no alteration of any kind, the panic increased among the generality of the ad- venturers. Morales, however, btood firm to his opinion of that being the island they were looking for ; and very sen< sibly observed, that, according to the accounts he had received from the English, the ground was covered over with lofty shady trees ; it was no wonder, therefore, that it should be exceeding damp, and that the humid vapours might exhale from it by the power of the sun, which spread- ing themselves to the sky, occasioned the dark clouds they saw ; and with respect to the noise, that might be occasioned D D 8 904 COQii's VOY^QES by oerUia curreots dashing (igaiost i\k9 rocks on the coast oftheislaQcl. Notwithstandiog theso obstacles, Juan Goosalvo deter-* mined to proceed: and, setting sail the next day, he at length made land ; and the fear of those who had been aU along terrified sow vanished. The lirst point ibey sawj they named St. Lawrence's Point: doubling this* they found to the southward, rising land, whither Morales to^d others were sent in a sloop to reconnoitre the coast ; and came to a bay which seemed to answor the description givevi by the English. Here they landed ; and finding the cross and the inscription over the gtai^e of the two lovers, they returned to Juan Gonsalifo with an aceount of their success; whereupon he immediately landed, and took possession of the place„ in the name of John I. king of Pot tugal, and prince Henry his son. Having built an altar near the grave, they searched about the island in order to discover if it contained any cattle; but not finding any, they coasted westward, till they came to a place where four fine rivers ran into the sea, of the waters of which Juan Gonsalvo filled some bottles, to carry as a present to prince Henry. Proceeding farther, they came to a fine valley, which was intersected by a beautiful river, and after that to a pleasant spot covered with trees, some of which being fallen down, Juan Gcnsalvo ordered a cross to be erected of the timber, and called the place Santa Cruz, or Holy Cross. After this they began to look ov '. for a place proper to fix their residence in while they stayed ; and at length found a fine tract of land, not so woody as the rest of the c. an try, but covered over with fennel, which, in Portuguese language, is called Funcho : from thence the town of Fonchal, or Fun- chiale, took its name which yf^ afterwards built on the same spot. Juan Gonsalvo, after having viewed other parts of the island, 9,nd finding daily new cause for admiration of the beaiities continually discoverec^ returned to Portugal, RQU(i9 THE WQRLI>. 905 and arrived at Lisbon in the end of August 1430, without having lost a single man in the whole enterprise : and & day of audience being appointed for him to make his report of his voyage, the king gave the name of Madeira to the new discovered island, on account of the great quantity of excel- lent wood found upon it. Soon after an order was made for Juan Gonsalvo to return to Madeira in the ensuing spring, with the title of captain governor of Madeira, to which title the heir of his family at present adds that of count. He ac- cordingly set sail on his second voyage in May 1421, taking with him the greatest part of his family ; and arriving at Madeira, he cast anchor in the road, till then called the En- glish Port ; but Gonsalvo, in honour of the first discoverer, then called it Puerto de Machino, from which name it was corrupted to Machico, which it now bears. He then ordered the large spreading beautiful tree before mentioned (under which MAohin and his companions had taken up their resi- dence) to be cut down, and a small church to be erected with the timber; which, agreeably to Machines request, he dedicated to Jesus Christ, and intersected the pavement of the choir with the bones of the two unfortunate lovers. Hesooa after laid the foundation of the town of Funchal^ which afterwards heeame famous ; and the altar of the new wooden church was dedicated to St. Catherine, by his wife Con- atantia^ who was with him. The island of Madeira, properly so called, is composed of one continued hill of a wonderful height, extending from east tei west ; the declivity of which, on the south side, is cultivated and interspersed with vineyards; and in the midst of this slope, the merchants have fixed their country seats, which help to render the prospect very agreeable. The skips departed frttm Madeira on the 1st of August, and on the 0th they cvosticd the tropio of Cancer. Capt. Cook now mad* from the inspissated juice of malt three puncheons of be». The proportion of water to juice was ten oC the former to one of the latter. They had on board 206 COOK*S VOYAGES nineteen half bari'els of inspissated juice, fifteen of ivhich were made from wort tliat had been hopped before it was inspissated. This may be mixed with cold water ; in a pro- portion of one part of juice to eight or tweWe of water; in a few days it will be brisk and fit to drink ; but the first sort, after having been mixed as above directed, requires to be fermented with yeast, in the manner as is done in making beer. This juice would be a most valuable article at sea, could it be kept from fermenting, which it did at this time by the heat of the weather, and the agitation of the ship, that all endeavours to stop it were in vain. On Monday the 10th, they came to an anchor in Port Pray a, in the isle of St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verds. An ofiicer was sent on shore for leave to procure what refreshments they wanted, which was readily granted ; and on his return the shipB saluted the fort with eleven guns. Here both the ships were supplied with plenty of good water. They also recruited their live stock, such as hogs, goats, and poultry, some of which continued alive during the remainder of the voyage. The island of St. Jago, or St. James's Island, is situ- ated between the 15th and 16th deg. N. lat. and in the 23rd of W. long. This island is the most fruitful and best inha- bited of all the Cape de Verd islands, notwithstanding it is very mountainous, and has a great deal of barren land in it. The principal town is called after the name of the island, and is situated in 15 deg. N. lat. It stands against the sides of two mountains, between which t^, they weighed anchor, put to sea, and continued their voyage to the Cape of Good Hope. On the 19th, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard, and was drowned. He was sitting on one of the scuttles, from whence it was supposed he fell. All endeavours to save him were in vain, for he was not seen till the instant he sunk under the ship's stern. His loss was sensibly felt, he being a sober man, as well as a good work- man and he was much regretted by his shipmates. On Thursday the 20th, it rained in streare sand they filled seven empty puncheons with fresh water. On the 27th, one of Captain Furneaux's petty officers died, but on board the ^m cook's V6yA'GBS Resotution there >tfM hot ohe tnah sick, although ^ deal of rain fell, ivhich in such hot climates is a great promoter Of sickness. Gapt Cook took i^Vtery necessary precaution for the preservation of health, by airing and drying the ship With fires made between decks, and by making the creiiT air their bedding, and wash their clothes at every opportunity. '"'^^ ' On Tuesday, September the 8th, they crossed the line in longitude 8 deg. W. Some of the crew, who had never passed the line before, were obliged to undergo the usual ceremony of ducking, but some bought themselves off, by paying the required forfeit of brandy. On Thursday, the 29th, at two o'clock P. M. they made the land of the Cape of Good Hope. They were visited by the master-attendant of the fort, some other officers belong ing to the company, and Mr. Brandt. This last gentleman brought many articles that Were very acceptable ; and the master-attendant, as is customary, took an account of the two ships, inquiring particularly if the small'-pox was en board, a disorder dreaded above all others by the inhabitants of the Cape ; for which reason a surgeon always attends un these visits. Capt. Cook sent an officer to wait npon Baron Plettenberg the governor, to inform him of their arrival ; to which he returned a polite answer ; and on the return of the officer, the English saluted the fort with eleven guns, which compliment was acknowledged by the same number. ' On the 22nd of November, having got every thing on boatd, and having taken leave of the governor, and other officers, who in a most obliging manner had afforded c^l the necessary assistance they required, they weighed, and saluted the fort with sixteen guns, which compliment was instantly returned. As soon as thtey had cleared the land, i,aey directed their couHe, as ordered, to Cape Circumcision. As they were now advancing towards the antarctic circle, and expected to encounter with cold weather, the captain or- dered a waste of fresh water to be as much as possible pre- sented ; at the same time he supplied each man irith a ROVND THE WORLD. 300 fearwNight jMkct, and trowaera^ allowed bf tlM Admiralty and also alopa to such who wanted them. Ob the 20tb» a heavy storm eame from the W.N.W. with few intervals of moderate weather, for nearly a week : the sea ran very high, and frequently broke over the ships.. The roaring of the waves, together with hail, rain, and a great agitation of the vessel, were circumstances that relk- dered their situation extremely disagreeable. A boy in the fore part of the ship hearing a noise of water ruo-)ing among the chests, turned out, and found himself half way up the 1^8 in water ; upon which all hands worked at the pumps, but still the water increased: at last it was discovered to come in through a scuttle in the boatswain's store-room. This gale, attended with bail and rain, continued till the 8th, with such fury, that they could carry no sails ; and being driven by this means &r to the eastward of their intended course, not the least hope remained of reaching Cape Cir- cumcision. Thdr distress was augmented by the loss of a great part of the live stock they had brought from the Cape. Every man felt the effects of the sudden transition from warm to extreme cold weather ; for which reason an addition was made to the men's allowance of brandy in both ships. On the morning of the 7tb ol December, the rising sun .gave a flattering prospect of serene weather 'y but their expeetMions soon vanished ^ the barometer was unusually loW^ aod^y o«e o'ckick.P.M.. tike wind, which was at N. W. blew with such ivtelenoe as. obliged them to strike the top-^alhut-masts* On the eighth,, the gale was somewhat abated; bulthe sea ran to» Ugk to earry mom than the foM tDp>-mast stay-saiU ut iv , 0» Wednesday, the ttth, at three AJIA. they wore the ship to the southward ; showers of snow fell, with squally weather. At eight, made signal for the Adventure to make sail. On the 10th, made another signal for her to lead, and saw an ice island to the westward,, in SO dog' 40 min. S( latitade, and 2 deg.EL kmgitiide o£tho Cape of Good Hope. c. V* 9. E E 210 COOK^S VOYAOfit The weather being hazy, Capt. Cook by signal called the Adventure under their stern : a fortunate circumstance this ; for the fog increased so much, that they could not discern an island of ice, for which they were steering, till they were within a mile of it. The sea broke very high against this island of ice, which Captain Fumeaux took for land, and therefore hauled off from it, till he was called back by signal. It being now necessary to proceed with great cir- cumspection, they reefed their topsails, and upon sounding found no ground with 150 fathoms. On Monday, the 14th, a boat was hoisted out for two gentlemen to make some observations and experiments. While they were thus engaged, the fog increased so much, that they lost sight of both ships. Their situation was truly alarming, as they were only in a small four oared boat, in an immense ocean, surrounded with ice, utterly destitute of provisions, and far from any habitable shore. They made various efforts to be heard, and rowed about for some time, without effect ; they could not see the length of their boat, nor hear any sound. They had neither mast nor sail, only two oars. They determined to lie still, as the weather was calm, and hoped that the ships would not sail out of sight. They now heard a bell sounded at a distance, and were at last taken up by the Adventure, and thus narrowly escaped. So great was the thickness of the fog sometimes, that the ships had the utmost difficulty to avoid rumuog against the islands of ice, with which they were surrounded* There were two men on board the Resolution, who had been in the Greenland trade; the one had lain nine weeks, and the other six, stuck fast in a field of ice. That which is called a field of Ice is very thick, and consists but of one piece, be it ever so large. There are other pieces of great extent packed together and in some places heaped upon each other. They now found the weather so much colder, that all the crew complained. Those jackets which were too short were lengthened with baize, and each of them had a ROUND THE WORLD. 211 cap made of the same stuff, which kept them as warm fis the climate would admit. Scorbutic symptoms appearing on some of the people, the surgeons gave them fresh wort every day, made from the malt they took out for that pur- pose. On the 27th, they had a dead calm, and they devoted the opportunity to shooting petrels and penguins. This afford- ed great sport, though they were unsuccessful in the chase of penguins ; at last they wounded one repeatedly, but were forced finally to kill it with a ball ; its hard glossy plumage having constantly turned the shot aside. The plumage of this bird is very thick, the feathers long and narrow, and lie as close as scales. These amphibious birds are thus se- cured ag^st the wet, in which they almost continually live. Nature has likewise given them a thick skin, in order to resist the perpetual winter of these inhospitable climates* The penguin weighed eleven pounds and a half. The petrels are likewise well provided against the severity of the weather, and have an astonishing quantity of feathers, two feathers instead of one proceeding out of every root. They had very bad weather, consisting of thick fogs, rain, sleet, hail, and snow, and were surrounded with innumerable quantities of ice, and in constant danger of being split by them. The crew were well supplied with portable broth and sour krout, which had the effect of keeping them from the scurvy. The habit of body in one man was not to be re- lieved by these expedients, but he was cured by the con- stant use of fresh wort. On the 20th, the commanders, came to a resolution, pro- vided they met with no impediment, to run as far west as Cape Circumcision, since the sea seemed to be pretty clear of ice, and the distance not more than eighty leagues. They steered for an island of ice this day, intending to take some on board and convert it into fresh water. They could not, however, take up any of the loose ice, for the wind increased so considerably, as made it dangerous for the ships to remain E e 2 ■ 9U cook's ¥UYA0BI among the iee ; betides which, they disooveved an imiDenie field of ice to the north, extending farther than the eye could reach. '^rh in '>nm. On the let of January, 1773, the gale abated, but there fell a deal of snow and sleet, which froze on the rigging of the ships. The wind continued moderate the next day, and they were favoured with a sight of the moon, which they had not seen since they left the Gape of Good Hope. They were now in 50 deg. 13 min. S. lat. and in deg. 45 min. fi. long, and made several observations on the sun and moon, being nearly in the longitude assigned by M. Bouvet to Cape Circumcision : as the weather was very clear at this time, insomnch that they could see at least fifteen leagues distance, it is most probabie what h9 took Ipr land was no more than mountains of ice, surrounded- by loose or packed ice. ^ . ' ' On Friday the 6th, they passed several ice islands, and in the evening came to one which had a vast quantity of loose ice about it, and the weather being moderate, they sent the boats out to take up as much as they could. Large piles of it were packed upon the quarter-deck, and put into casks, from which, after it was melted, they got water enough for thirty days. A very little salt water adhered to the ice, and the water which this produced was fresh and good. Excepting the melting and taking away the ice, this is a most expeditious method of supplying ships with water* They observed here several white whales of an immense size. On the 17th, they crossed the antarctic circle, and ad- vanced into the southern frigid gone, which to all former navigators had remained impenetrable. In the afternoon they saw thirty-eight ice islands, large and small. This immense field was composed of diiSerent kinds of ice, such as field-ice, so called by the Qreenlandmen, and packed ice. They saw several whales playing about, and large petrels. The latitude was now 67 deg. 15 min. S. and not ROVflD TUB VOALD. 213 tkinking it prudent to perteTere in a eonthern direetion, they resolved to go direotly in search of the land lately db- covered by the French. .fu/.i On the 29lh, several porpoises passed with amafting swiCtness ; they had a large white spot on their sides, which came almost up to their baeks. They went at least three times as fast as the vessels, vdiich went at the rate of seven knots and a half an hour. On the 3ist, they passed a laige ice island, which at the time of their sailing by was tumbling to pieces. The explosion equalled that of a cannon. On the 4th of February, there was an exceeding thick fog, and they lost sight of the Adventure. They fired seve- ral signals, but were not answered ; and they feared that a separation bad taken place, though they could not w^U tell what bad been the cause of it. Capt. Cook had directed Capt. Furqeaux, in case of a separation, to cruiae Uuree days in that place he last saw the Resolution. Capt. Cook accordingly made short boards, and fired half-hour guns till the afternoon of the 7th, when the weather cleared up, but the Adventure was not to be seen in the limits of their horieon. They lay to till the lOtli, firing guns, and burn- ing false fires at night, but neither saw nor heard any thing of the Adventure. The crew universally regretted the loss of the Adventure ; and seldom looked around the ocean without expressing some concern they were alone on this unexplored expanse. ri . On the 17th of March, Captain Cook came to a resolution to quit the high southern latitudes and to proceed to New Zealand, to look for the Adventure and to refresh his peo- ple. As the wind, which continued between the N. and W. would not permit them to touch at Van Dieman's Land, they shaped their course to New Zealand ; and being under no apprehensions of meeting with any danger, the captun was not backward in carrying sml. For the three days past the mercury in the thermometer had risen to forty-six, and the weather was quite mild. Seven or eight degrees 314 C00K*8 VOYAGES of latitude had made a surprising difference in the tempe- rature of the air, which they felt with an agreeable satisfac- tion. On the 26th, they entered Dusky Bay, in New Zealand, but with much caution, as they were all strangers as to its soundings, Capt. Cook in his former Yoyage having only discovered and named it. After running about two leagues up the bay, and passing several of the isles which lay in it, they brought to, and hoisted out two boats ; one of which was sent away, with an officer, round a point on the larboard side, to look for anchorage. This he found, and signified the same by signal. They then followed with the ship, and anchored in fifty fathoms water, so near the shore as to reach it with a hawser. This was a oireumstakice of great joy, having been 117 days at sea, and sailed 3060 leagues, with- out so much as once seeing land. After such a long continuance at sea, in a high northern latitude, it is but reasonable to think that many of the peo- ple were ill of the scurvy. The contrary, however, was the fact : sweetwort had been given to such as were scorbutic ; and this had so far the desired effect, that only one man on board could be called very ill of this disease, and his illness was principally aggravated by a bad habit of body, and a complication of other disorders. The country appeared beautiful and pleasing. The Islands at the entrance of Dusky Bay, were shaded with evergreen, and covered mth woods, and exhibited a de- lightful prospect. The rocky shores were enlivened with flocks of aquatic birds, and the whole country resounded with the wild notes of the feathered songsters. They caught great numbers of fish, which eagerly took the bait, and their first meal upon fish seemed the most delightful they ever made. Their situation was admirable for wood and water. The ship^s yards were locked in the branches of trees, and near their stern ran a delightful stream of fresh water. They now made preparations on shore to set up the ROUND THE WORLD. 315 astronomer's observatory, the forge, &c. for making all ne- cessary observations and repairing the sliips. The live cat* tie they had left, which consisted of a few sheep and goats, would not taste the grass which grew on the shore, nor were they fond of the leaves of tender plants which grew here. On examining these poor creatures it appeared that their teeth were loose, and that they had other symptoms of an inveterate scurvy. vtiAiit On the 28th, some of the officers went on a shooting party in a small boat, and discovering some of the inhabitants, re- turned to acquaint Capt. Goolc therewith. Shortly after a canoe filled with them came within musket shot of the ships. They remained for a short time and then returned, though every endeavour was used to induce them to approach nearer. Capt. Cook, with several officers and gentlemen, wen^ in search of them the same day. They found the ca- noe hauled upon the shore, where were several huts, with fire-places and fishing-nets, but the people had probably re- tired into the woods. The gentlemen made but a short stay, and left in the canoe some medals, looking glasses, &c. not choosing to searcli any further, or enforce an interview which the natives wished to avoid. On the 1st of April, they sent to see if the things left in the canoe remained there. It did not appear that any body had been there. On the 2ad, they went ashore and took with them a black dog they had brought from the Cape, who ran into the woods at the first musket they fired, and would not return. . u On the 0th, a shooting party went out, and found a ca- pacious cove, where they shot several ducks : on which account th^y called it Duck Cove. They had an interview with one man and two women, as they returned in the evening, who were natives, and the first that discovered themselves ; and had not the man hallooed they would have passed without seeing them. The man stood upon the point of a rock, with a club in his hand, and the women were 9M cook's tOYAOBS bdund Mm with ipears. As they approBohed, the man dis- covered great signs of fear, but stood firm ; nor would he move to take up some things that w«re thrown to him. Hiis fears were all dissipated by Capt. Cook's going up to em- braee him ; and the captain gave him such things ais be liad about him. The officers and seamen followed the captain, and talked some time with them ; though they could not understand them. The youngest of the women bore the greatest share in tlie conversation. Ob the 7tb,, they made them another visit, and! presented them with several things ; but they beheld every thing with indiflerence, except hatchets and spike nails* Tbey now saw all the man's family, as tliey supposed, which con>- sisted of his two wivesi, the yoang woman mentioned befiMre, a boy about fourteen years old, and three small chil- dren, fixoepting one woman (vfho had a large wen uipoM her upper lip^)- they were w«li fa.voured ; on accoimi of her disagreeable ssppeaurance, she seemed to be neglected by the ma*. The fin^islimraii were conducted to tiieir habi- tation,^ wUcfat eoosistod «§ two mean hu^ sitvated near tkci skirtis of & wmid.. Their canoe lay in a smaU creek near the huts, and was just large enough to transport the whole lamikyftiom plaoa to> place. A gentlentan> of the patty made: sketehess oH thien^ On taking leave, the main preaenlad Gapt. Cook with sone triflea and a piece of cloth pf( their own. manufacture ; and pointed to a boat cloak> wUcbihtt wishlBd toikwve. The hint was taken, and one was ordered to be made for him of red baize. On th(» 9th, they paidithe natites aiwibervisit,. and signified their approach by halltwing to \\hem; bttt the^p neitfacv met the English on sliOM^ ■oraiiB«ered them* as usual';: the reason was, they were dressing themselves to*rcoeive the gentlemen. ':^hey bad thek hahr combed and oiled,, stuck with white feathers aadtied upon the cuowns of their heads, and had bunches of featktft • stuck m their ears. They were receivedjwith great oaii«to^.aiid tlie: nan was so well pleased with the present ■P"^l ROUND THE WORLD. 217 of the cloak, that he took his patta-patoe from his side, and ^Te it to Capt. Cook. On Monday, the 12th, this family paid tliem avisit in their canoe, hut proceeded with caution as they approached the ship. They could not be persuaded to come on board, but put ashore in a little creek near them, and sat themselves down. Capt. Cook ordered the bagpipes to play, and the drum to beat ; the latter only they regarded. They conver- sed very familiarly (though not well understood) with such oihcers and seamen as went to them, and paid a much greater regard to some than to others. It was supposed that they took, such for women. One of the females shewed a remarkable fondness for one man in particular, until she found out his sex ; after which she would not let him ap- proach her. Whet'.ier she had before taken him for a female, or some other circumstance had produced the change, was uncertain. In the evening the natives took up their quarters very near the watering-place, which was a clear proof of their confidence. .; ^ - On the 19th, the man and his daughter before mentioned, ventured on board the ship, while the rest of the family were fishing in the canoe. Before the man would come into the ship, he struck the side of it with a green branch, and muttered some words as a prayier ; after which he threw away the branch, and came on board. They viewed every part of the cabin with apparent curiosity and surprise, but it was not possible to fix their attention to any one thing for a moment. All that was shewn them seemed beyond their ■ comprehension, and th' works of nature and art were alike disregarded. The man appeared better pleased with hatchets and spike-nails than any thing the ship produced ; and wheii be had once got possession of these, he would not quit them. Capt. Cook and three other gentlemen left the ship as soon they could disengage themselves from the visitors, whom they left in the gun-room, and vent out in two boats to examine the head of the bay ; at which V. V. 10. F r 318 COOK S VOYAGES place they took up tbeir niglit^s lodging. The next day tii^y continued their observations, and fired at some ducks. Upon the report of the gun, the natives, who had not discovered themseWes before, set up a most hideous roar ill diflferent placM. The gentlemen haltooed in their turn, and retreated to the boats. The natives did not follow them, neither indeed could they, because a branch of the river separated (liemy but still made a great noise. As they continued shooting and making their observations, they frequently heard the na* tivieft in the woods. A man and woman appearf;d at last D riiC: WORLD. 21Q w in ?«ike4s, \f hicli they looked upon as instruments of death, on acbount 6f the slaughter they had observed among the fowls. It was necessary to watch them, for they laid their hands ou every thing except the muskets. They assisted the seamen in launching; thj boat. It did not appear that they had any boats or canoes with them, but used two or three logs of wood tied together, which answered the same pur- poses ; for the navigation of the river, on the banks of which they lived, was not very difficult, and swarmed with fis!* and fowl. Several parties were made in order to catch seals, which were very useful fur food, for oil, ahd tkeir skins Were <;ured for rigging. Their flesh was nearly as good as beef-stakes, and their intrails were equal to those 6f a bog. ! th'i,' i* Ai • On Saturday, the 24th, Capt. Cook took five geese and a gander, wliich were aU that remained (^ those brought from the Gi^ of Good Hope, and carried them to a cove, which o» tb»si {account he called goose-cove ; this was a convenient place, for they were not likely to be disturbed by the inhabi- tants^ there was also plenty of food^ and they were likely here to hteed and spvead their species. They had now several days of fair weather, which ajforded a fine opportunity of making the necessary preparations for departure. !"- There are two entrances to Dusky Bay, and there are numeiHMis anchoring places, which are at once safe and oommodioius ; at Cascade Cave, so called on account of the magnificent cascade near it, there is rooni for a fleet of shiips^ and a very good passage in and out. The country is very mountainous, and the prospect is rude and craggy. The land bordering on the sea-coast, and all its lands, are covered with wood. There are trees of various kinds which are common in other countries, the timber of which is remarkably fine. Here are likewise a great number of aromatic plants, and the woods are so over-run with 8upl» jacks, that it is difficult to make way through them. The bay abounds with fish, which were caught ia great numbers, F f 2 330 COOK^S VOYAGES I Seals are the only amphibious animals to be found here, but there are great numbers of them. Various kinds of ducks are to be found, as well as all other wild fowl. The inhabitants of Dusky Bay are the same with those in other parts of New Zealand ; they speak the same language and adopt the same customs. It is not easy to divine what could induce these few families to separate themselves from the society of the rest of their fellow-creatures. It seems probable tliat there are people scattered all over this southern Island. They appear to lead a wandering life, and do not seem to be in perfect amity with each other. On Tues ,r '^e 11th of May, the ship again made sail, but met with > 'e obstructions. They observed on a sud- den a whitish spot on the sea, out of which a column arose which looked like a glass tube. It appeared that another of the same sort came down from the clouds to meet this, and they made a coalition and formed what is called a water- spout ; several others were formed in the same manner soon after. As they were not very well acquainted with the na- ture and causes of these spouts, they were very curious in examining them. Their base was a broad spot, which look- ed bright and yellowish when the sun shone upon it ; this appeared when the sea was violently agitated, and vapours rose in a spiral form. The columns were like a cylinder, and moved forward on the surface of the sea, and fre- quently appeared crossing each other, and at last broke one after another, this was owing to the clouds not following them with equal rapidity. The sea appeared more and more covered with short broken waves as the clouds came nearer to them ; the wind veered about, and did not fix in any one point. Within 200 fathoms they saw a spot in the sea, in violent agitation ; the water ascended in a spiral form to- wards the clouds ; the clouds looked black and louring, and some hail stones fell on board. A cloud gradually tapered into a long slender tube directly over the agitated spot, and seemed descending to meet the rising spiral, and Aonq ROUND THE WORLD. 2ai united with it. The last water-spout broke like others ; no explosion was heard, but a flash of lightnin^;^ attended this disjunction. The oldest mariners on hoard had never been so near a water-spout before, tiiey were therefore very much alarmed. Had they been drawn into the vortex, it was believed that the masts and yards musts have gone to wreck. From the first appearance, to the last disjunction, was three quarters of an hour. On the 18th of May, atfiveo^olock in the morning, they opened Queen CarIotte*s Sound, and saw three flashes arising from a strong hold of the natives. Imagining them to be signals of the Europeans, and probably of the Adventure, they fired some guns, and were answered, and in a short time saw the Adventure at anchor. They were saluted by Capt. Furneaux with 13 guns, which was cheerfully re- turned ; the joy at this happy meeting, was indescribable. Gapt. Furneaux gave the following account of his pro- ceeding during their separation. On Sunday the 4th of February, having lost sight of the Resolution, in a thick fog, they continued to cruize in the place where they parted company ; soon after their separation they heard the report of a gun, which they judged to be on the larboard beam; upon which they hauled to the S. E. and fired a four pounder every half hour ; but receiving no return, they kept the course they had steered before the fog came on. In the evening it began to blow hard. The storm was attended with a prodigious fall of rain, every drop of the size of a common pea ; and the sea broke over the ship's bows to the height of the yard arms ; yet, at intervals the weather was more clear, but they could not see the Resolution. They then stood to the westward, to cruise in the latitude where they last saw her, according to agreement, in case of sepa- ration ; but the storm returned with renewed fury, and the weather being again exceeding hazy, they were compelled to bring to, which untoward oincumstance prevented them from reaching the intended place ; however, they cruized 222 cook.'b voyages aa near the same as they couM f«ir three duys, when after having kept beating about the seas, in the most feri^ibie weatlier, giving up all hopes o£ joining their lost compa- nioD) they bore away for winter-quarters, 1400 leagues from them ; and having to traverse a siea entirely unknown, they took every precaution for their safety, aod rectueed 'be al- low».nce of water to one quart a day for each seaman. On Monday, the 1st of March, having made no discovery of land, though they had traversed from lat. 48 to 45 deg. S. and from long. 36 to 140 deg. it was determined to bear away for Van Diemen^s Land, to take in water and repair their shattered rigging. Qn Thursday the 11th, tliey found a most commodious harbour, and anchored in seven; fatfioms water, about one mUe from the shore on each side. During their stay here, ihey did not see any of , ROUND THE WORLD. S23 On the 34tb, having left Van Diemen*s Land, a very severe squall they had and shipped many waves, one of which stove the large cutter, and with much difficulty the small one was prevented from being washed over hoard. After this heavy gale, which continued twelve hours, they had more temperate weather, accompanied with calms. At length they made the coast of New Zealand, having run 24 deg. of longitude in a passage of fifteen days. ' When they first came in sight of laud, it appeared high, forming a confused group of hills and mountains. On the 9tfa of April, three canoes came along side the Adventure, having fifteen Indians of both sexes, all «nned with battle axes, and with other offensive weapons made of hard wood, in the form of the officers spontoons, fdnrnt four feM in length ; but they had neither bows nor arrows. A kind of mat was wrapped round their shoulders, and tied about their waists with a girdle made of grass. Both men and women exMbited a savage appearance, and were very nnwHlhi^to vtthture oti board; The captain made t^em presents, and by signs invited them to trade. They tnwepieA the presents, and some itf them assumed coiinge enough to ttuBt themselves on deck. In this visit tliey mentioned the name of Tupiii, «nd upon being informed he died at Bataviii, some of them with mueh concern inquired if he waa killed or died a natural deaths. ■ un' . .> ' On Tuesday, the 11th of May, several of the ctmn/ho were at work on shore, very sensibly felt the shook of an earthquake, firom whieh circumstance it is pmbaUe^ that there atftt vdcanoes in New Zealand, as these phittoefMiMa generally go together. On the 12th, the weather contin- uing fair^ and the Indiatas friendly, the captain and offi- 1 cers were preparing to go ashore, when not less than t^ canoes came paddling down the Sound. They Counted one hundred and twenty natives, all armed. When alon^ iMe of the ship, they expressed a desire tb be adibitted onboiird ; but Capt» Fttttleaux, not liking their looks and gestures, SJ'i f 324 COOK S VOYAGES gave orders that a few only should be admitted at a time. These behaved so disorderly tliat the sailors were obliged to turn them out, and it now appeared plainly .that their intentions were to make themselves masters of the ship : however finding the crew to be upon their guard, they be- came more civil, but not before a great gun was discharged over their heads, which intimidated them. Being thus reduced to order, the people on board produced several articles, such as beads, small clasp knives, scissars, cloth, paper, and other trifles, which they bartered for battle axes, spears, weapons of various sorts, fish-hooks, and other cu- riosities, the manufacture of the country. Being visibly disappointed in the execution of their grand design, they took to their canoes ; but previous to their departure, the captain and officers made presents to those among them who appeared to be their chiefs, which they accepted with great apparent satisfaction. On the 17th, they had the pleasure of seeing the Resolu- tion off the mouth of the Sound. Such is the detail of Capt. Furneaux after parting from the Resolution. The effects of the boisterous weather which they had experienced in the course of the last few months, were felt by the crew of the Resolution ; being sometimes sur- rounded with islands of ice, out of which they could only extricate themselves by the utmost exertion of their skill in seamanship, sometimes involved in sheets of sleet and snow, and in mists so dark, that a man on the forecastle could not be seen from the quarter deck ; sometimes the sea rolling mountains high, while the running tackle, made brittle by the severity of the frost, was frequently snapping, and some- times rendered immoveable* Amidst the hardships of such a traverse, there is nothing more astonishing, than that the crew should continue in perfect health, scarce a man being so ill as to be incapable of duty. Nothing can redound more to the honour of Capt. Cook, than his paying particu- lar attention to the preservation of health among his com- ROUND THE WORLD. 325 pany. By observing the strictest discipline from the higlicst to the lowest, his commands were duly observed, and punctually executed. When the service was hard, he tempered the severity thereof by frequently relieving^ those employed in the performance, and having all hands at command, he was never under the necessity of continuing the labour of any set of men beyond what their strength and their spirits could bear. Another necessary precaution was, that in fine or settled weather, the captain never suffered any of his men to be idle, but constantly employed the armourers, carpen- ters, the professed navigators, foremastmen, &c. in doing something each in his own way, which, though not imme- diately v/anted, he knew there might be a call for before the voyage was completed. Having by this means left no spare time for gaming, quarrelling, or rioting, he kept them in action, and punished drunkenness with the utmost seve- rity ; thus by persevering in a steady line of conduct, he was enabled to keep the sea till reduced to a very scanty portion of water ; and when he despaired of finding any new land, and had fully satisfied himself of the non-existence of any continent in the quarter he had traversed, he directed his course to Charlotte^s Sound, the place appointed for both ships to rendezvous in case of separation, and ap- peared off tlie same, (as been ah udy related) on Tuesday, the 18th of May, 1773, and discovered her consort, the Adventure, by the signals she made, an event every one in both ships felt with inexpressible satisfaction. The morning after their arrival, being Wednesday, the 10th, Capt. Cook went off in the boat, at day-break, to gather scurvy grass, cr^lery, and other vegetables. At breakfast time he returned with a boat load, enough for the crews of both ships ; and knowing their salutary efficacy in removing scorbutic complaints, he ordered that they should be boiled with wheat and portable broth, every morning for their breakfast, and with pease and broth for dinner, and thus dressed they are extremely beneficial. ,_. : c. V. 10. G g iM 326 COOK*S VOYAGES Capt. Furneaux bad planted a great quantity of garden seeds, which grew very well, and produced plenty of salad and European greens. This day Capt. Cook sent on shore, to the watering place, near the Adventure's tent, the only ewe and ram remaining of those they brought from the Cape of Good Hope. On the 21st they went over to Long Is- land, which consists of one long ridge, the top nearly level, and the sides steep. Here they sowed diflferent kinds of garden seeds upon spots which were cleared for that pur- pose. On Saturday, the 22ud, they found the ewe and ram dead, supposed to have been occasioned by some poisonous plants. About noon they were visited by two small canoes in which were five men. They dined with them, and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening they were dis- missed with i^resents. On Monday the 24th, Capt. Cook, accompanied by Capt. Furneaux and Mr. Forster, set off in a boat to the west bay on a shooting party. They met a large canoe, in which were fourteen or fifteen people ; and the first question asked was concerning the welfare of Tupia. Being told he was dead, they expressed some concern. The same inquiry, as has been observed, was made of Captv Furneaux when he first arrived, and on getting on board in the evening, they were informed that some Indians, in a canoe, who were strangers, had also inquired for Tupia. This day the Re* solution received another visit firom a family who came with no other intent than partaking of their food and to get some iron work : one of them was a boy i'.bout twelve years of age, very lively and intelligent. He t at voraciously, and was very fond of the cmst of a pie made of wild fowli Hie did Hot much relish Maddra mne, which the captain gave him, but was very fond of some sweet Gape wine, wbteh elevated his spirits and his tongue was perpetually geing^. He very much wan te^l the captMn*s^b<»at cloak, and seemed much hurt at a refusal. An empty bottle and a tat>le-ctoth being also denied liim> he grew exceeding angry, and at ROUND THiH WORLD. 227 length was so sullen, that lie would not speak; a word. On Saturday tbe 20tli instant, a great number of natives sur- rounded the ship with canoes, who brought goods to exclmnge, for which they got good returns, owing to the eagerness with which the sailors outbid each other, all of them being desirous of having some of the productions of this coun- try. The natives were so mercenary as to encourage the prostitution of their women for a bribe. One of the In- dians, Capt. Cook took to Mortuara, and shewed him some potatoes, in a thriving condition, which were planted by Mr. Fannen, master of the Adventure. The man was so well pleased with them, that of his own accord, he began to hoe up the earth round the plants. He was then conducted to other plantations of turnips, carrots, and parsnips, ofwhidi it was easy to give them an idea, by comparing them wiUi such roots as they were well acquainted with. On the 2nd of June, in an excursion made by some of the crew to the east, they met with the largest seal they had ever seen. They discovered it swimming on the surface of the water, and got near enough to fire at it, but without effect ; and after pursuing it near an hour, they were oblig- ed to give over the chase. By the size of this animal, it probably was a sea-lioness ; Capt. Cook was of this opinion from having seen a sea -lion when be entered this sound, in bis former voyage ; and he thought these creatures had. their abode in some of the rocks, that lie off Admiralty Bay, and in the strait. On Friday the 4th of June, being his Majesty^s birth- day, they hoisted their colours, and prepared to celebrate the day with ike usual festivities. Early in the morning their friends brought them a large supply of fish. One of them promised to accompany theship in their voyage, but afterwards altered his mind, as did also some others wlio had made a like promise to die people of the Adventure. It was very common for these people to bring their children with them, not with the iunnatural intention of selling them, as was reported, but in Gg2 238 C00K*8 VOYAGES expectation that they would make them presents. A man brought his son, about ten years of age, and presented him to Capt. Coolc, who thought at first he wanted to sell him : but they soon found tlie desire of the father was inclined only towards a white shirt, which was given to his son. The boy was so highly delighted with his new garment, that he went all over the ship, presenting himself before every one who came in his way. This freedom, or perhaps the colour of his dress, or the boy^s antic gestures, offended old Will, the ram goat, who by a sudden butt knocked him backwards on the back. The shirt was dirtied, and the misfortune seemed irreparable to the boy, who feared to appear before his fa- ther in the cabin, until brought in by Mr. Forster ; when he told a very lamentable story against Gourey, the great dog (for so they called all the quadrupeds on board) nor would he be reconciled till his shirt was washed and dried. From this trifling story may be seen how liable persons -^re to mistake these people's meaning, and to ascribe to th( 'is- toms they are utter strangers to. This day a large arable canoe approached, well manned ; it came witiiin musket shot, and contained about thirty men. Their friends on board told them they were enemies very earnestly. Among these new visitors, one stood at the head of the canoe, and another at the stern, while the rest kept their seats. One of them held a green bough, the New Zealand flag, in his hand, and spoke a few words. The other made a long harangue, in solemn and well articulated sounds. Being invited aboard, he at last ventured, and was followed soon by the rest, who eagerly traded with the crew. They directly saluted the natives on board, by an application of their noses, and paid the same compliment to the gentlemen on the quarter-deck. The chief's name was Teiratu. They all inquired for Tupia, and were much concerned at hearing of his death. These people were taller than any hitherto seen in New Zealand, and their dress and ornaments bespoke them supe- rior to the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Their ROUND THE WORLD. 320 tools were made with great attention, and were elegantly carved : a few of these were obtained, and also some musi- cal instruments. They made but a short stay, and embark- ing, they all went over to Mortuara, where, by the help of glasses, four or five canoes were discovered, and several people on the shore. About noon Capt. Cook, accompanied by several other gentlemen, followed them, and were re^ ceived with every mark of friendship. The captain dis- tributed several presents, among which were a number of brass medals inscribed with the king^s title on one side, and the ship which undertook this voyage on the other. Teiratu appeared to be the chief among these people, by the great degree of respect paid him. Capt. Cook cond^ucted Teiratu to the garden he liad planted, and obtained a promise from him that he would not suiTer it to be destroyed. - Early in the morning of the 7th of June, the ships sailed from this place, but had frequent hindrances from contrary winds. On the 22d of July, in lat. 32 deg. long. 133 deg. the weather was so warm they were obliged to put on lighter clothes. Capt. Cook having heard that the crew of the Adventure were sickly, went on board on the 29th of July, when he found the cook dead, and twenty men ill with the scurvy and tlux« Only three men were on the sick list on board the Resolution, which was certainly owing to the captain*s absolutely enforcing the eating celery and scurvy grass with the food, though at first the crew did not like it. All hopes of discovering a continent now vanished, as they had got to the northward of Capt. Carteret's tracks, and they only expected to see islands till their return to the south. Every circumstance considered induced a belief that there is no southern continent between New Zealand and America. It is very certain that this passage did not produce any signs of one. On the 6ch of August, Capt. Furneaux came on board the Resolution to dinner, and reported that his people were HBO cook's yOYAGEH much better, that the flux had quite left tiiem, and that thu scurvy was at a stand. The scorbutic people had been well supplied with cyder, which in a great measure contributed to this happy change. >■ On the J8lh, they were within a league of Otahcite. On ace )unt of the breeze failing they hoisted out the boats to tow the ships. Many inhabitants came on board from flifferent parts, who brought fruits, &c. to exchange ; the most of th&m knew Capt. Cook again, and inquired for Mr. Banks and others, but none of them asked for Tupia. Their situa- tion now became very dangerous from a coral reef. On sending to examine the western point of the reef, in order to get round that way into the bay, they found that there was not sufficient depth of water. Both ships were carried with great impetuosity towards the reef and all the horrors of ship-wreck now stared them in the face. The breakers were not two cables length distant and no bottom to anchor. The Resolution came to three fathoms water, and struck at every fall of the sea, but the Adventui^ brought up without striking. The dreadful surf which broke under their stern threatened shipwreck every moment. At length they found ground a little without the bason, Rcd got the ship afloat by cutting away ihe bower anchor, and the tide ceased to act in the same direction. 'I'hey towed off the Resolu- tion, and all the boats were o«*de ed to assist the Adventure, and they happily got once more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping shipwreck. A number of the natives were on board the ships while in this perilous situation, but were totally insensible of any danger, even while the ships were striking. They anchored in Oati-piha Bay, very near the shore, and were visited by a great number of the natives, who brought roots, fruit, &c. Presents were made to their chiefs, of shirts, axes, and other articles. In return for which they promised hogs, fowls, &c. In the afternoon. Captains Cook and Furneaux landed to sounci the disposition of the na- tives, and to view the watering place. The oatives ROUND THE WORLD. 231 behaved with greal civility, and they had a very convenient supply of water. -" A man who pretended to be a chief came on board with several of his Mends, to whom presents were made, but he was detected in handing several things over the quarter gallery ; and as complaints of the same nature were al- lodged against those on the deck, the captain took the liber- ty to turn them all out of the ship. The captain was so exasperc.led at the cj>nduct of the pretended chief, that he fired two muskets over his head,, which terrified him so much, that he quitted his canoe, and took to the water. On sending a boat to take up the canoe, . the people from the shor« pelted the boat with stones. The captain went him- self in another boat to protect her, he likewise ordered a cannon loaded with ball to be fired along the coast, which terrified them sufficiently, and he brought away the canoes without any opposition. They soon became friends again, and the canoes were returned. Two or three people began to inquire after Tupia, but thtrjr were soon satisfied when they heard the cause of his death. Several people asked for Mr. Banks and other people who were at Otaheite with Capt. Cook before. It appeared that th?re had been a battle lately fought between the two kingdoms, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninsula was slain, and that Otoo reigned in his stead. In this battle Tuboural Tamaide, and several of their old friends fell. A peace was now fully established. On the 10th, the two commanders mad*- "n excursion along the coast, and were entertained by a chief (whom they met) with some excellent fish, 6cc. to whom in return they made several presents. On the 20th, one of the natives stole a gun from the people on shore. Some of the natives pur* sued him of their own accord, who knocked him down, and brought back the musket. Probably fear operated more with them in this business than any other motive. On the 21st, a chief paid them a visit and brought a present of fruit, 232 cook's voyages . . !1'1 el ^ ;i ^hich proved io be some cocoa-nuts that had leen throiitn overboard. He did not betray the least emotion when thejr told them of it, and opened two or three of them, himself, as if he knew nothing of the matter ; he then (Pretended to be satisfied. that it was really so, and went on shore, from whence he sent some bananoes and plantains. They w chief, advancing to meet them with a numerous train. Wlien the prince perceived the compkiny, he halted. He knqw Capt. Cook very well, as they had seen each oth^rsei^eral times in 1769. He went at that time by. the pai^e of Terace, and took his fa- therms name after his 4eath. He wa9 sitting on a stool ; and as soon !as the u^^Al; salutation ivaspvjBr, he seated Capt« Qook; on.t^e stool with )i^i;rself; thejrest sat on the ground. !p^ jin^uir<^ sifter^sevfrfyl wbo l^acl beea^pn the former yoy- agOj, find hf^ seemed sorryi when told that they must sail on the Mf^t day} assuring the captajn if he would stay, that be should have hogs in plenty. Capt. Cook made him many presents, . and staid with him the whole morning. This party returned ojji board of ship to dinner, and made this chief another visit in the afternoon, made liim more pre- sentSjt aiid he gaye in return two hogs. At the different trading places some others were got, so that a meal's fresh pork was served for the crews of both ships. Early in the morning of the S4t'u, they put the ships to sea, and were accompanied by several canoes, who brought car- goes of fruit for sale ; neither did they return till they had dispofed of them. The sick people on board the Adventure got inuo^ relief (rom these fruits. A lieutenant W|i8 left on shore, in order to bring some hogs, which they promised to send Ixy bim. He returned on the 25th, and brought eight pigs with him. They arrived at Matavia Bay in the p^"*" 1 £ ^1 111 mmmm m'mmmmm ROUND THE WORLD. 233 evening of the 25ih, and their decks were crowded with natives before they could get to anchor : almost all of them were acquainted with Capt. Cook. Otoo their king, and a great crowd, were got together on the shore. Capt. Cook was going on shore to pay him a visit, but was told that he was gone to Oparee in a fright ; which seemed very extraor- dinary to the captain, as all others were much pleased to see him. Maritata, a chief, was on board, and advised the captain to defer his visit till next morning. The captain set out on the 26th, for Oparee, after having given directions to fetch tents for the reception of the sick, &c. Capt. Furneaux, Maritata and bis wife, and some otheri^, went with the cap- tain. They were conducted to Otoo as soon as they were landed, who sat on the ground under a shady tree, with a great number of people round him. Capt. Cook made him several presents, after the usual compliments had passed, being very well persuaded that it was much to his interest to establish a friendship with this man. His attendants also had presents made to them. They offered cloth in return, which was refused, being told that what was given was ^ merely out of friendship. Oi;oo inquired for all the gen- tlemen who had been there before, as well as for Tupia, and promised to send some hogs on board, but was very back- ward in saying he would come on board himself, being, as he said, much afraid of the great guns. He was certainly a most timid prince, as all his actions demonstrated. He was a personable well made man, six feet high, and about thirty years of age. His father and all his subjects were uncovered before him, that is, their heads and shoulders were made bare. On the 27th, king Otoo returned the visit, attended by a numerous train ; he sent before him two large fish, a hog, some fruits, and a large quantity of cloth. After much persuasion he came on board himself, accompanied by his sisters, a younger brother, and many attendants : after they had breakfasted, they carried them home. Upon land- c. V. 10. IJ H l/iili»i i"^"i I ^1 i34 cook's voyaobs II Ing, an old lady, the mother of Toutaha, met Capi. Cook^ seised him by both hands, and, weeping bitterly, told him that her son and his friend Toutaha were dead. Had not the king taken her from Capt. Cook, he must have joined her lamentations. It was with a good deal of di.ficulty that the captain prevailed on the king to let him see her again, when he made her some presents. Capt. Furneaux gave the king a male and female goat. A lieutenant was sent to Atta- hourou on the 28th, to purchase hogs. The king, with his sister and some attendants, paid them another visit soon after sun rise, and brought with them a hog, some fruit, and some more cloth. They likewise went on board the Adventure, and made Capt. Furneaux the same presents. Soon after they returned, and brought Capt Furneaux with them. Capt. Cook made them a good return for the presents they brought, and dressed out the king's sister to the greatest advantage. The king was carried again to Oparee, when his Otaheitan majesty thought proper to de- part, and was entertained as he went with bagpipes and the seamen dancing. Some of his people danced also in imita- tion of the seamen, and performed their parts tolerably well. Toutaha's mother again presented herself to Capt. Cook ; but could not look upon him without shedding many tears. On the 30tb, the commanders took a trip to Oparee, early in the morning, attended by some officers and gentlemen, and made the king such presents as be had not before seen. One of them was a broadsword ; at the sight of which he was very much intimidated, and desired it might be taken out of his sight. With a vast deal of argument he was pre- vailed upon to suffer it to be put on his side, where it remained a very short time. They received an idvitotioD to the theatre, where they were entertained with a dramatic piece, consisting of a comedy and dance. The subject they could not find out ; though they heard frequent mention of Capt Cook*8 name diiriBg the performance. The performeis were one woman» which was no less a personage than the ROUND THK WORLD. 2d5 fcing*s sister, and five men, and tbeir music consisted of only three drums. The whole entertainment was well con- ducted, and lasted about two hours. When this diversion was over, the king desired them to depart, and loaded them with fruit and fish. In the evening of the 30th, they were alarmed with the (iry of murder from the shore. Capt. Cook suspected it was occasioned by some of his own people, and armed a boat and sent on shore, which soon returned, with a seaman and three marines ; otherr who belonged to the Adyenture were also taken, and put under close confinement till the morn- ing, when they were severely punished according to their demerits. The people would confess nothing, and it did not appear that any material injury had been done. The alarm however was so great, that the natives fled from their habi- tations in the night ; and the inhabitants of the whole coast were terrified. The king himself fled from his abode ; and 'uen Capt. Cook saw him, he complained of the disturb- ance. Capt. Cook pri^sented i]^e king with three Cape sheep, as it was his last visit : with this present he was well pleased, though they were all wethers ; and be pre- sented the captain with three hogs. The king seemed much affected when Capt Cook told him he should leave the island the next day, and embraced him several times. On the Ist of September they determined to depart, Pottatou (the chief of the district of Attahounou,) came with his wife to pay Capt. Cook a visit, and made him a present of two hogs and some fish. As the wind was westerly, they were obliged to dismiss their friends sooner than they wished ; but they were well satisfied with the reception they met with. A young man, named Poreo, came on board some hours before they got under sail, and desired to go with them, to which they consented ; and at the same time he Mked for an axe and a spike nail for his father, who came with him on board, and which were accordingly given him, but as they parted with great indifference, it seemed to indi- H h 2 236 COOK*S VOYAGES i 1 a cate that no such ooDSanguinity subsisted. Presently a canoe, conducted by two men, came along side, and de- manded Poreo in the name of Otoo. The artifice was now manifest, and they were required first to return the hatchet and spilce nail, but as these were ashore, he was carried away, though he wept when he saw the land astern. On the 2nd, they steered for the Island of Huaheine, andt the Resolution anchored in 24 fathoms water on the 3rd. The Adventure got ashore on the north side of the chan- nel, but was got off again without receiving any damage. The natives received them with the utmost cordiality, seve- ral of them came on board. Some presents were distributed among them, which were returned by a plentiful supply of hogs, fruit, &o. Here they had a prospect of being plen- tifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls. €apt. Cook was informed that Oree was still alive, and waited to see him. The commanders, with Mr. Forster, went to the place appointed for the interview, accompanied by one of the natives. The boat W£^ landed before the chief's house, and they were desired to remain in it till the necessary cere- mony was gone through. There si id close to the shore five young plantain trees, their emblems of peace : these were, with some ceremony, brought on board separately. The first three were each accompanied by a young pig, whose ears were ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres ; tjtie fourth plantain tree was accompanied by a dog. All these had particular names and meanings. The chief had care- fully preserved a piece of pewter, with an inscription on it, whicli Capt. Cook had presented to him in 1769, together with a piece of counterfeit English coin, which, with a few beads, were all in the same bag the captain made for them : these the chief sent on board. This part of the ceremony being over, the gentlemen were desired to decorate three young plantain trees with nails, looking-glasses, beads, medals, &c. With these in their hands they landed, and the plantains were laid one by one before him. They were ROUND THE WORLD. •237 told that one was for God, another for the king, and the third for friendship. This being done, the king came to Capt. Cook, fell on his neck, and kissed him. A great effusion of tears fell down the venerable cheeks of this old roan. Presents were made to all l^is attendants and friends. Capt. Cook regarded him as a fa>lher, and therefore pre- sented him with the most valuable articles he had. He gave the captain a hog, and a quantity of cloth, with the promise that all his wants should be supplied. Soon after they returned on board, fourteen hogs were sent, with fowls and fruits in abundance. In the morning of the 5th, they were visited by this old man, who brought a hog and some fruit; indeed he sent the captain every day ready dressed fruit and roots in great plenty. This morning the lieutenant went on shore in search of more hogs, and returned in the evening with twenty-eight, and about seventy more were purchased on shore. On the 6th of September, the trading party went on shore as usual ; it only consisted of Uiree people. Capt. Cook went on shore after breakfast, and learnt that one of the na- tives had been very insolent and troublesome. This man was shewn to the captain, equipped in his war habit, and he had a club in each hand. The captain took those from him, as he perceived him bent on mischief, broke them before his face, and obliged him to retire. The captain being informed that this man was a chief, became a little suspicious of him, and sent for a guard. About this time a gentleman had gone out botanizing alone ; two men assaulted him and stripped him of every thing but his trowsers ; luckily they did him no harm, though they struck him several times with his own hanger. They made off when they had. done this, and another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him. This gentle- man presently appeared at the trading places where a number of the natives were assembled, who all fled on seeing him. Capt. Cook persuaded some of them to return, assuring them that none should suffer who were innocent. When the king 988 COOK S VOYAOBS I > heard this complaint, he and his companions wept bitterly ; and as soon as his g^rief was assuaged, he made a long ha- rangue to the people, telling them the baseness of such actions, when the captain and his crew had always behayed so well to them. He then took a particular account of the things the gentleman had lost, and promised they should be returned, if it was in bis power to find them. After this he desired Capt. Cook to follow him to the boat, but the people being apprehensive for his safety, used every argu- ment to dissuade him from it. It is impossible to describe the grief they expressed in the intreaties they used ; every face was bedewed witli tears, and every mouth was filled with the most dissuasive arguments. Oree was deaf to them all, and insisted on going with the captain ; when they both were in the boat, he desired it might be put ofi; The only person who did not oppose his going, was his sister, and she shewed a magnanimity of spirit equal to her brother. They proceeded in search of the robbers, as far as was convenient by water, and then landed^ The chief led the way, travelled several miles, and inquired for the robbers of all he saw. The king wanted to proceed farther, and was with great difficulty dissuaded from it by Capt. Cook. On returning to the boat they were met by the king's sister, who had tra- velled over land to that place, accompanied by several other persons. They returned to the ship, and the king made a very hearty dinner ; though his sister, according to custom, eat nothing. The captain made them suitable presents for their confidence, and set them ashore amidst the accla- mations of multitudes. Peace was now perfectly re-esta- blished, provisions poured in from all quarters, the gentle- man's hanger and coat were returned, and thus ended these troublesome transactions* On the 7th, Capt. Cook went to take leave of Oree while the ships were unmooring, and presented him with things both valuable and useful. He left with him a oopper*plate with this inscription, ** Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's ROUND THE WORLD. 230 ■hips Resolution and Adventure, September, 1773.*^ After they had traded for such things as they wanted, they took their leave. On returning to the ships, they were crouded with canoes filled with hogs, fowls, &c. The good old king staid with them till they were near two miles out at sea, and then, taking an affectionate leave, parted. During their stay here, they procured upwards of three hundred hogs, besides fowls and fruit in great abundance. At this island, Capt. Furneaux engaged a young man named Omai, a native of .Ulietea, who had been dispossessed of his property by the people of Bolabola, to accompany him on his voyage. He was brouglit to England, and his his- tory is connected with the future proceedings of the voyagers. This young man appeared to possess a good understanding, honest principles, and a natural good behaviour. On the 8th of September* they anchored at Ulietea, and a trade soon commenced with the natives. Next morning they paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the isle, carrying with them the necessary presents. He was seated in his own house, which ^^ood near the water side, where he and his friends received them with great cordiality. He expressed much satisfaction at seeing Capt. Cook again, and desired that they might exchange names, which he ac- cordingly agreed to. This is the strongest mark of friend- ship they can shew to a stranger. After they bad made the chief and his friends the necessary presents, they went on board with a hog, and some fruit, received from him in return. After breakfast, on the 10th, Capt. Furneaux and Capt. Cook paid the chief a visit; and were entertained by him with such a comedy or dramatic heava, as is generally acted in these isles. The music consisted of three drums ; the actors were seven men and one woman, the chiePs daughter The only entertaining part of the drama, was a theft com- mitted by a man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficiently displayed the genius of the people. 840 cook's voyages 1 ! ■.! in this vice. Capt. Cook says, ** I was very attentiTe to the ivhole of this part, being in full expectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had before been in- formed that Teto (that is, the thief) was to be acted, and had understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good tiparrahying (or beating,) a punishment, we are told, they inflict on such as are guilty of this criaie. Be this as it may, strangers are certainly excluded from the pro- tection of this law ; them they rob, with impunity, on every occasion that offers.'* On the Idth, Capt. Cook was told that his Otaheitean young man, Poreo, had taken a resolution to leave him, and was actually gone ; having met with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendship, he went away with her, and they saw him no more. Having now got on board a large supply of refreshments, the captain determined to put to sea the next morning, and made the same known to the chief, who promised to see him again before he departed. As soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and some of hi^ friends, came on board. Many canoes also came off with fruit and hogs ; the latter they even begged of then^ to tcke from them, calling out Tiyo boa atoi — I am your friend, take my hog, and give me an axe. But the decks were already so full of them, that they could hardly move ; having on board both ships, between three and four hundred. It is not easy to say how many they might have got, could they have found room for all that were offered them. The chief and his friends did not leave them till they were under sail : and before he went away, pressed them much to know if they would not return, and when ? Questions which were daily put by many of these islanders. The Otaheitean youth leaving Capt, Cook proved of no consequence, as many young men of this island voluntarily offered to come away with them : he thought proper to take on board one, wh» was about seventeen or eighteen years old, named Oedidee, ROUND THE WORLD. 341 a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of Opoony, chief of that island. ' The island of Otaheite, which in the year 1767 and 1768, as it were, swarmed with hog^s and fowls, was now so ill supplied with these animals, that hardly any thing could induce the owners to part with them. As Capt. Coek had some reason to belieye, that amongst the religious customs of ihese people, human sacrifices were sometimes considered as necessary, he went one day to a M arai in Matavia, in company with Capt. Furneaux ; ha?- ing with them, as they had upon all other occasions, one of their own men who spoice their language tolerably well, and several of the natives, one of whom appeared to be an intelli- gent, sensible man. In the Marai was a Tupapow, oh which lay a dead corpse and some viands. He began with asking questions relating to the several objects before him ; if the plantains, &c. were for the Eatua ? If they sacrificed to the Eatua, hogs, dogs, fowls, &o. To all of which he answered in the afiirmative : but they did not sufficiently understand the language to have a peifect comprehension of his meaning. . He has since learnt from Omai, that they offer human sacrifices to the Supreme Being. According to his account, what men shall be so sacrificed, depends on the caprice of the high priest, who, when they are assembled on any so- lemn occasion, retires alone into the house of their god, and stays there some time. When he comes out, he informs them that he has seen and conversed with their great god, and that he asked for a human sacrifice, and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a man present, who most probably the priest has an antipathy against. He is imme- diately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resentr^ent, who, no doubt, if necessary, has address enough to persuade the people that he was a bad man. After leaving Ulietea on the 17th of September, 1773, they steered to the west, and on the 1st of October, they saw the c. V. 11. I i i^ 342 cook's voyages ii ■ 'I island of Middleburgh. As they approached the shore, tw9 canoes came boldly along-side, and some of the natives entered the ship without hesitation. This mark of confi- dence gave Capt. Cook a good opinion of these islanders, and determined him to visit tliem if possible. They found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-live fathoms water. They had scarcely got to an anchor, before they were sur- rounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who be- gan a traffic. Among them was a chief, named Tioony, to ivhom the captain made a present of a hatchet, spike nail, and several other articles, with which he was highly pleased. Soon after, a party of them embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony, who conducted them to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of the ships, where land- ing was extremely easy, and the boats secure against the surf. Here they found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed them on shore with loud acclamations. Not one pf them had so much as a stick or any other weapon in his hand ; jin indubitable sign of their pacific intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth and matting, to exchange for nails, that it was some time before they could get room to land. Many, who could not get near the boats, threw into them, over the other*s heads, whole bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking or waiting to get any thing^in return. The chief conducted them to his house, about three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of a dne lawn, ^nd under the shade of some shaddock trees. The situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at anchor ; behind, and on each side, vere plantations, in which were some of the richest pi*o- ductions of nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which they were placed, and the people seated themselves in a circle round them on the outside. Having the bagpipes with them, Capt. Cook ordered them to be played ; a:od in return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song. M f ROUND THE WORLD. US Tvhich they did with a very r^ood grace ; and having made each of them a present, this immediately set all the women in the circle a singing. Their songs were musical and har- monious. Bananas and cocoa-nuts were set before th^m to eat, and a bowl of liquor prepared in their presence, of the juice of Eava, for them to drink. But Capt. Cook was the only one who tasted it ; the manner of brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was, how- ever, soon emptied of its contents by the natives. They returned on board to dinner, with the chief in their company. He sat at table, but eat nothing ; which, as they had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordinary* Near some of the houses, and in the lanes that divided the plantations, were running about some hogs and very large fowls, which were the only domestic animals they saw ; and these they did not seem willing to part with, which deter- mined them to leave this place. ■"*' The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country, and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with each other in doing what they thought would give pleasure. After making the chief a present, consisting of various articles, and an assort- ment of garden seeds, Capt. Cook gave him to understand that they were going away, at which he seemed not at all moved. As soon as the captain was on board, they made sail down to Amsterdam ; opening the west side of the isle, they were met by several canoes, each conducted by three or four men. They came boldly along-side, presented them with some Eava root, and then came on board without farther cere- mony, inviting them by all the friendly signs they could make, to go to their island, pointing to the place where they should anchor. v Having secured the ships, Capt. Cook landed, accom- panied by Capt. Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of the officers ; having along with them a chief, or person of some I i 2 ii* IM I 944 cook's voyaobs note, whose name was Attago, who had attached himself to the captain from the first moment of his coming on board* which was before they anchored. After walking a little way into the country, they returned to the landing-place, and there found Mr. Wales in a laugh- able, though distressed situation. The boats which brought them on shore not being able to get near the landing-place, for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off bis shoes and stockings to walk through, and as soon as he got on dry land, he put them down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched away by a person behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It was im^- possible for him to follow the man bare-footed OTer the sharp coral rocks which compose the shore^ without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat was put back to the ship, his companions had each made his way through the crowd, and he left in this condition alone. The chief soon found out the thief, and recoYcred his shoes and stockings, and of his o^n accord condncted them to a plantation hard by, and shewed them a pool of fresh water, though they had not made the least enquiry after any. > i^d^f Mr. Forster and his party spent the day in the country botanising, and several of the officers were out shooting. All of them were very oiYilly treated by the natiYes. A boat from each ship was employed trading on shore, and bringing oflf their cargfoes as soon as they were laden, which was ge- nerally in a short time. By this method they got cheaper, and with less trouble, a good quantity of fruit, as well as other refreshments, from people who had qo canoes to carry them off to the ships. Though the natives began to show a propensity to pilfer- ing, the different trading parties were so successful as to procure for both ships a tolerable good supply of refreshr ments. In codsequence of which Gapt. Cook, the next norning, gave every one leave to purchase what curiosities they pleased. After this, it was astonishing to see with ROUND THE WORLD. 345 what eagerness every one caught at every thing he saw* It even went so far as to hecome the ridicule of the natives, who ofiered pieces of slicks and stones to exchange. One waggish boy took a piece of human excrement on the end of a stick, and held it out to every one he met with. ' One of the natives having got into the master^s cabin, took out some books and other things. He was discovered just as he was getting out ioto his canoe, and pursued by one of their boats, which obliged him to quit the canoe and take to the water. The people in the boat made several attempts to lay hold of him ; but he, as often, dived under the boat, and at last unshipping the rudder, he got clet*r off. Some other very daring thefts were committed at the landing- place. One fellow took a seaman*s jacket out of the boat, and carried it off, in spite of all the people in her. The rest of the natives, who were very numerous, took very little no- tice of the whole transaction ; nor were they the least alarmed when the man was fired at. Attago visited Captain Cook again the next morning, and brought with him a hog, and assisted him in purchasing several more. This day tbe captain was told by the officers who were on shore, that a far greater man than any they had yet seen was come to pay them a visit. Mr. Pickersgill informed them that he had seen him in the country, and found that he was a man of consequence, by the extra- ordinary respect paid to him by the people. Some, when they approached him, fell on their faces, and put their heads between their feet ; and no one durst pass him without per- mission. The captain found him seated near the landing- place, with so much sullen and stupid gravity, that notwith- standing what had been told him, he really took him for an idiot, whom tbe people, from some superstitious notions^ were ready to worship. He saluted and spoke to him ; but he neither answered, nor did he alter a single feature in his countenance. This confirmed him in his opinion, and he was just going to leave him, when one of the natives under- fl m i >c!l m^. 346 cook's voyages took to undeceive him ; which he did in such a manner as left no room to doubt that he was the king, or principal man on the island. Accordingly he made him a present, which consisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of red cloth, a looking- glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received these things, or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid by him, without losing a bit of his gravity, speaking one word, or turning his head either to the right or left ; sitting the whole time like a statue ; in which situation he left him to return on board, and he soon after retired. The captain had not been long on board, before word was brought that a quantity of provisions had come from this chief. A boat was sent to bring it from the shore; audit consisted of about twenty baskets of roasted bananas, sour bread and yams, and a roasted pig of about twenty pounds weight. The bearers said it was a present from the areeke, that is the king of the island, to the areeke of the ship. After this they could no longer doubt the dignity of this sullen chief, whose name was Kohaghee-too-Fallangou. The captain again went on shore and made this great roan a suitable return, and immediately prepared for quitting the place. At ten o'clock they got under sail. The sup- plies they got at this isle were about 150 pigs, twice that number of fowls, as many bananas and cocoa-nuts as they could find room for, with a few yams ; and had their stay been longer, they, no doubt, might have got a great deal more. ^it^ These islands were first discovered by Capt. Tasman, in i642-3 ; and, by him, called Amsterdam and Middleburgh. But the former is called by the natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, the latter £a-oo-wee. The produce and cultivation of Middleburgh and Amster- dam are the same ; with this difference, that a part only of the former is cultivated. The lanes or roads necessary for travelling, are laid out in so judicious a manner, as to open a free and easy communication from one part of the island ROUND THE WORLD. 247 to the other. Here are no towns or villages ; most of the houses are built in the plantations, with no other order than what convenience requires. They have little areas before the most of them, which are generally planted round with trees, or shrubs of ornaments, whose IVagrancy perfumes the very air in which they breathe. Their household fur- niture consists of a few wooden platters, cocoa-nut shells, and some wooden pillows, shaped like four footed stools or forms. Their common clothing, with the addition of a mat, serves for bedding. They saw no other domestic animals amongst them but hogs and fowls. The former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea ; but the latter are far superior, being as large as any we have in Europe, and their flesh equally good, if not better. The land birds are numerous. The construction and make of their canoes, in point of neatness and workmanship, exceed every thing of the kind seen in this sea. They are built of several pieces sewed toge- ther with bandage, in so neat a manner, that on the outside it is difficult to see the joints. All the fastenings are in- side, and pass through kants or ridges, which are wrought on the edges and ends of the several boards, which compose the vessel, for that purpose. At each end is a kind of deck, one third part of the whole length, and open in the middle. These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are sometimes navigated with sails, but more generally with paddles. The two vessels which compose the double canoe are each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the mid- dle ; and each end terminates nearly in a point ; so that the body or hull differs a little in construction from the single canoe ; but is put together exactly in the same manner. All the parts which compose the double canoe, are made as strong and ligh|||i the nature of the work will admit, and may be immerged in water to the very platform, with- out being.in danger of filling. Nor is it possible, under any circumstances whatever, for them to sink, so long as they % S48 COOK*S VOYAOBS ijil hold together. Thus they are not only made vessels of bur« then, but fit for distant navigation. They are rigged with one mast, and are sailed with a latteen-sail, or triansrular one, extended by a long yard, which is a little bent or crooked. The sail is made of mats ; the rope they make use of is laid exactly like those of Europe, and some of it is four or five inch. On the platform is built a little shed or hut, which screens the crew from the sun and weather, and serves for other purposes. Their working tools are made of stone, bones, and shells. They were struck with admiration at the ingenuity and patience of the workman. Their knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach them to prefer nails to beads, and such trifles : some, but a few, would exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge- tool. The only piece of iron among them was a small broad awl, which had been made of a nail. Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans ; their colour is a lightish copper. They have fine eyes, and, in general, good teeth, eveii to advanced age. The custom of tattowing or puncturing the skin prevails. The men are tattowed from the middle of the thigh to above the hips. The women have it only on their arms and fingers ; and there but very slightly, l^e dress of both sCixes consists of a piece of cloth, or matting, wrapped round the waist, and hanging down below the knees. From the waist, upwards, they are geneirally naked; and it seemed to be a custom to anoint these parts every mom- IDgi. Their ornaments are amulets^ necklaces, and bracelets of bones, shells, and beads of mother of pearl and tortoise-shell, which are worn by both sexes. They make various sorts of matting ; some of ft very fine textare, which is generally used fbr clothing ; and the thick and stronger sort serves to sleep on, and to make sails for their canoes. Amokig other 1^ ROUND THE WORLD. 24l(» useful tttensilsy they i have various sorts of baskets ; some made of the same materials as their mats, and others of the twisted fibres of cocoa-nuts. These are not only durable but benutiful, beings generally composed of different colours and studded with beads made of shells or bones. i The women frequently entertained them with bongs, in a manner which was agreeable enough. They accompany the music by snapping the fingers, so as to keep time to it«, Not only their voices, but their music was very harmonious/ and they have a considerable compass in their notes. The common method of saluting one another is by touching or meeting noses, as is done in New Zealand ; aud their sign of peace to strangers is the displaying a white. i}ag or 4ags. From their unsuspicious manner of coming on boarjd, it ap- pears they are seldom disturbed by foreign or domestic troubles. They are, however, not unprovided with very for-, midable weapons ; such as clubs, and spears made of hard wood, also bows and arrows. They have a singular custom, of putting every thing you give them to their heads, by way^ of thanks. Very often the women would take hold of Cap- tain Cook's handy kiss it, and lift it to their heads. It was observed that the greater part of the people, both men and women, had lost one or both of their little fingers. It was neither peculiar to rank, age, nor sex ; nor is it douQ at any certain age, as they saw those of all ages on whom the amputation had been just made ; and except some young children, they found few who had both hands perfect. As it was more common among the aged than the young, some were of opinion, that it was occasioned by the death of their parents, or some other near relation. They also burn or make incisions in their cheeks, near the cheek bone. They alla|>peared healthy, strong, and vigorous; a proof of the goodness of the climate in which they live. . licaving these islands, the ships made sail to the south- ward ; it being* Captain Cook^s intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand, tl^ere to take c. V. 11. K k 250 CO0lt*9 VOVAOCflf i\n in wood and water, and then to go on'farthl>r dttoolwm» to the south- and east. He was desiroiM of having^ soriio inler^ course with the natWes of this oountry, about FovMjf or Tolaga Bays, where he apprehended they weremoM eiTilized than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in order to: gite Ihem sbihe hogs, fowh, seeds and roots, which he had provided for the purpose. They arrived on the 21st ; and passing Cape Kidnappers, saw some canoei put o^ froiii'tlwshorcu> Upon this they lay to, in order to give tbem time tb qome otf board. Those in the first canoe, which came alongi-side, were fishers, and exchanged some fish for pieces of ^eth and nails. ln> the next were two meny who, by their dress and behaviour, seemed to be chiefs* These were easily pre- vailed on to come on board, when they were presented with nails and other articles. They were so fond of nails, as to seize on all they could find, and with such eagerness^ aa plainly shewed they were considered the most .valtiable thSngs. To the principal of these men Captain Gok^ gave the pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. At first,' h^did not thipfc it was meant to give them to him ; for he took very little no* tice of them, till he was satisfied they wWe for himself^ nor was be then in such raptures as when b^ gave him a spike- nail balf the length of his arm. However, at his going away, the captain took notice that he took care tp ba-Ve them all Collected together, and kept a watchful eye over^ tbem,: lest any should be taken away* He made a promise no^ to kill any; and if he keeps his word, and proper care is Mken of them, there were enough to stock the whole island in doe time. The seeds were wheat, French and kidi|ey>bean8^ peas, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips, yams^ &04 It Was evident these people had not forgot the BndeavoHV being on their coast ; for the first words they sp^eiive^^ Mataouno te pow pom, (we are afraid of the jgreat gtint); As they coiild not be strangers to the a£Pair of Cape Kid- napper, in the former voyage, experience had taught ihem to have some regard to these instruments of denitlf. "v^ ROUND TV-'^ WORLD. 35J '.: They now stretched to the southnrard; presently after violent weather came on, and for two days they were beatin§f up against a hard gale. When they arrived just in sight of portf they had the mortification to be driven off from the land by a furious storm-, They continued to combat tempestuous weather till the dOth, when they lost sight of the Adventure. In the after- noon the galeabated. Captain Cook now regretted the loss Ofher j for had she been with him, he would have given up all; thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's 3ound to wood «Mid watery and to* have sought for a place to get thesie avr tides farther south, as the wind was now ffEtvourable, for ranging alpng the coast. As they approached the land,>hey ^w .smoke io^eyera^plfices along the shore ; a sure sign ithai the coast wa> inhabited. They continued to stand to .the eastward all night, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure ia the morning ; but in this they were disappointed, and soon encountered another storm. Af^er a succession of calm^ and brisk gales, in tracing the fBoast, tiiey discovered on the east side of Cape Teerawhitte, a, new inlet they had never observed before, into which they entere4 and cast anchor. Soon after they bad anchored, se- veral, of the natives cafue off in their canoes; two from on^ isjbore, and one from the other. It required but little address to get three or four of them on board. These people .^.were extravagantly fond of nails, above every other thing. ,To one man the captain gave two cocks and two hens, wfaiph lie received with so much indifference, as gave little hopes ,thatj be would take proper care of them. They had not been jEktaiicbor here above two hours, when the wind veered to ithfi Ij^.uEt with which they weighed, and steered for the ,So«od, where they arrived Just at dark, with most of their «Ailasplitj. :r:f{f'><>.: . : ' M.^t f:'» ft h?- «; vfifThe tte«t morning, the 3d of November, the gale abated, and wasiiucceeded by a few hours calm ; after that a breeze sprung up at N. W. with which they weighed and ran ^up Kk2 '\ 962 OOOK^S VOYAOBS .(J II into Ship Cove, where they did not find the Adventuro> M was expected. '?/ Here they saw the youngest of the two sows captain For* neaux had put on shore in Cannibal CoTe, when they wert last here ; it was lame of one of its hind legs^ otherwise in good case, and very tame. If they understood these people right, the boar and other sow were ivlso taken away and se- parated, but not liilled. The two goats bad been liilled. Thus, all their endeavours to stock this country with useful •niilials weire like to be frustrated by the very people they liiheatot to serve. The gardens had fared somewhat better^ Every thing in them, except the potatoes, they had left en- tirely to nature, who had acted her part so well, that most ar- ticlle^ were in a flourishing state ; a proof that the winter must halre been mild. The potatoes had most of them been dug up ; some, however, still remained and were growing ; and, probably, will never be out of c e ground. '^^'^^ "» Next morning the captain sent over to the cove, where the natives resided, to haul the seine ; and took with binh a boar tinA a young sow, two cocks and two bens, they had brought from the isles. These he gave to the natives, beiiig per- suaded they would take care of them, by their having^ kept Captain Fumeaux^s sow near five months. When they were purchasing fi! lvhiih hi^ eyes, made a shew of keeping thepeofde at a pr<»- 'j;>ieir distance. . The captain says, ** I applauded his conduef, tiut kept so gbod a look out, as to detect him in picking -my pocket of ai^'liandkerchief, which I suffet^ed faim to put In hiii l>b^(^ttnr belbir^ I seemed to know any thibg of ihemaittep, and then told him what I had lost. He seemed qliite iiino- creAt and' ifnorant, ii41 1 t6(^ hfrobh hlm<; andHfaen he^put it offivithW laugh, acting his part with }ii) b^ch address^, itlmt ii' was! hardly pbtsibtie for me to be angry with him^ so we ROUND THE WORLD. S5d remained good friends, and he accompanied me on board to dinner." About that time, they were visited by several strangers, in four or five canoes. These new-comers toolc up their quarters in a cove near the tents i but very early in the morning moved off with six small water casks, and with them all the people they found here on their arrival. This precipitate retreat of these last, they supposed, was owing to the theft the others had committed. They left behind them some of their dogs, and the boar that had been given them the day before, which the captain now took back again, as be had not another. The casks were the least loss felt by these people leaving them, for while they remained they were generally well supplied with fish at a small expence. In un- packing the bread, 4292 pounds were found totally unfit to eat, and about 3000 more could only be eaten by people in their situation. Very early in the morning of the 22nd, they were visited by a number of the natives, in four or five canoes, very few of whom they had seen before. They brought with them various articles, which they bartered. At first, the exchanges were much in the sailors favour, till an old man, who was no stranger, came and assisted his countrymen with his ad- vice ; which, in a moment, turned the trade about a thousand per cent, against them. i After these people were gone, the captain took three sows and a boar, two cocks and twohens» which he landed in the bottom of the West Bay ; carrying them a little way into the 'woods, where he left them with as much food as would serve Ithdm teti or twelve days. This was done with a view (tf keeping them in the woods, lest they should oome down on ithd; shore in search of .food, and be discatered by. the na- 'tiv: ■:•■■( •■"'I'l'' *;!',"iH oil's : > 'Havih^ ikow put the ship in a condition for sea, and to encounter the southern latitudes, the tents wete struck^ and eVery'thing.g^ton board. .; - /') 954 C00K*8 V0VA0B8 I i\ Tl« boatswain with a party' of men, being in the woods cutting broom, some of them found a private hut of the na- tives, in which was deposited most of the treasure they had received from them, as well as some other articles of their own. Complaint was soon made by the natives, that some articles bad been carried ofT, and they particularly charged one man with the theft. The captain having ordered him to he punished before them, they went away seemingly satis- fied $ although they did not recover any of the things they liad lost, nor could by any means find out what had hecomto of them. It was ever a maxim with the captain to punish the least crimes of any of his people committed against ilMse unoivihved nations. Their robbing them with impu- nity is; by no means, a sufficient reason why the Europeans should treat these uninformed people in the same manner. Calm light airs from the north, all day, on the <3rd, hindered them from putting to sea, as intended. In the afternoon, some of the officers went on shor^, to amuse them- selves among the natives, where they saw the head and lH»wels of a youth, who had lately been killed, lying on the beach; and the heart stuck on a forked stick, whi6h was iixed tb'the head of one of the largest canoes. One of the jgentlemen bought the head, and brought it on board, where a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the na- itinee, before all the officers and most of the men. Captain Ooek was oh' shore at this time, but soon after returning on li^ard^was informed df the circumstance, and found' the ^uarteit^deck crowded with the natives, and the mangled head, er rather part of it, lying on the tafferal. The skiill had be^n broken on the left side, just above the temples, send the Mtnaias of the face had all the appearance of a youth of twenty. The sight of the head, and the relation of the abeve •irtmnstances, struck him wilb horror^ and filled his mind lirith indignation against these oaniiibals. Curibsity^ hovr- ever, got the better of his indignation, especially when lie considered that it would avail but little ; and being desirous ROUND THE WORLD. 355 ofbeoomiog aneye-witnesB of a fact which many doubted, he ordered a piece of the flesh to be broiled aud brou^tt to' the quarter-deck^ where one of these cannibals eat it with surprising avidity. This had such an effect on some of the sailors as to make them sick. This youth was killed in a skirmish between two parties. /.tn That the New Zealanderaare cannibpils, cannot bedoubted'. The account given of this in Capt. Cook's former voyage, being partly founded on circumstances, was, as he afterwards understood, discredited by many persons. Few consider what a savage man is in his natural state, and even after he is, in some degree, civilized ! On the 25th, they weighed, with a small breeze. The morning before they sailed, Capt. Cook wrote a memoran- dum, setting forth the time he arrived, the day he sailed^ the rout he intended to take, and such other information as he thought necessary for Capt. Furneaux, in case he should put into the Sound, and buried it in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden, in snch a manner as must have been found by him, or any European who might put into the cove. Every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither be stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours, they gave up all thoughts of seeing her any more during the voyage ; as no rendezvous was fixed upon after leading New Zealand. On quitting the coast, audi conse* quently all hopeaof being joined by their consort, not a man was dejected, or thought the dangers they had to go through^ in the least increased by being alone. -, o On the 14th of December, they fell in with several large islands of ice, and, about noon, with a quantity of loose ice, through which they sailed. Gray albatrosses^ blue peterels, pintadoes, and fulmers were seen. As they advanced with a fresh gale at west, they found the number of ice islands in- crease fast, also a considerable quantity of loose ice. They tacked, stretched to the north, and soon got clear of it, but not ibefore they had received several hard knocks :i ujiil' ttc !? i .1 I I ; 2SQ COOK S VOYAGES frdmihe larger pieces, vrhich, with all their care, they could nojt avoid. After clearing one danger, they still had another to encounter ; the weather remained foggy, and many large islands lay in their w&y. One they were very near falling aboard of; and if it had happened, this circumstance would never have been related. These difficulties determined them to keep further to the north. On the 21st, they very suddenly got amongst a cluster of large ice islands, and a vast quantity of loose pieces ; and as the fog was exceedingly tliick^ it was with the utmost diffi- culty they wore clear of them. On the 23d, the wind being pretty moderate, and the sea smooth, they brought to «.t the outer edge of the ice, hoisted out two boats, and sent to take some up. The snow froze to the rigging as it fell, making the ropes like wires, and the sails like boards or plates of metal. h On the 30th of Janury 1774, very eakiy in the morning, they perceived the clouds, over the horizon to the south, to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, which they knew denoted their approach to field ice. Sooa after, they were close to its edge, it extended east and west, far beyond the reach of their sight. In the situation they were in, just the southern half of the horizon was illuminated by the rays of light reflected from the ice, to a considerable height. Ninety- seven ice hills were distinctly seen within tlie field, besides those on the outside ; many of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, rising one above another, till th^y were lost in the clouds. The outer or northern edge of this immense field was composed of loose or broken ice close packed together ; so that it was not possible for any thing to enter it. This was about a mile broad j within which was solid ice in one continued compact body It was rather Ipw and flat, except the hills, but seemed to increase in height to the south ; in which dire^'tion it extended beyond their sight. The captain says, " I will not say it was impossible any where to gr^ farther to the south ', hui the attempting it # ROUND THE WOULD. 257 » MTOuld have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and what, I believe, no man in my situation would have thought of. I, who had ambitioa not only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far as it was possible for man to go, was not sorry at meeting with this interruption ; as it, in some measure, relieved us, at least, shortened the dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the southern polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther to the south, no other reason need be assigned for my tacking and standing to the north.^* The captain now came to a resolution to proceed to the north, and to spend the ensuing winter within the tropic, if he met with no employment before he came there ; as he was now well satisfied no continent was to be found in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south as to be totally inaccessible on account of ice ; and that if one should be found in the southern Atlantic Ocean, it would be necessary to have the whole summer before them to explore it. They now steered north, inclining to the east, and in the evening they were overtaken by a furious storm, attended with snow and sleet. It came so suddenly upon them, that before they could take in their sails^ two of them were blown to pieces, and the others much damaged. On the 35th, Captain Cock was taken ill of a bilious cholic, which was so violent as to confine him to his bed ; so that the management of the ship was left to Mr. Cooper, the first officer, who conducted her much to his satisfaction. It was several dayi before the dangerous symptoms of his disorder were removed. When he began to recover, a favourite dog, belonging to Mr. Forster, fell a sacrifice to his tender sto- mach. They had no other fresh meat whatever on board ; and the captain could eat of this flesh, as well as broth made of it, when he could taste nothing else. Thus he received nourishment and strength from food which would have made most people \a Europe sick ; so true it is that necessity is governed by no law. n ' c, V. 11. h 1 ll 258 COOK*S VOTAOES I ll At eigtit o^dook lu the morninf of the 1 1th of March, land nvas seen from the mast-head, bearing ivest, about twelve leagues distant. They now tacked and endeavoured to get into what appeared to be a bay, on the west side of the point ; but before this could be accGroplished, night came upon them, and they stood on and oiF, under the land, till next morning. This is called Easier Island, or Dav's's Land. Here a canoe, conducted by two men, came off. They brought with them a bunch of plantains, which they sent into the ship by a rope, and then returned ashore. This gave the captain a good opinion of the islanders, and inspired them with hopes of getting some refreshments, of which they were much in want. They continued to range along the coast, till they opened the northern point of the isle. While the ship was plying in, a native came on board. The first thing he did was to measure the length of the ship, by fathoming her from the tafferal to the stem ; and as he counted the fathoms, they observed that he called the numbers by the same names they do at Otaheite ; nevertheless his language was nearly unintelligible to them. Nextmorning thecaptain wentashore, accompanied by some of the gentlemen, to see what .'he island was likely to afford. They landed at a sandy beach, where some hundreds of the natives were assembled, and who were so impatient to see them, that many of them swam offto meet the boats. Not one of them had so much as a stick or weapon of any sort in his band. After distributing a few trinkets amongst them, they made signs for something to eat ; on which they brought down a few potatoes, plan- tains, and sugar canes, and exchanged them for nails, look- ing-glasses, and pieces of cloth. They soon discovered that they were as expert thieves, and as tricking in their ex- changes, as any people they had yet met with. It was with some difficulty they could keep their hats on their heads ; but hardly possible to keep any thing in their pockets, not oven what themselves had sold; for they would watch every opportunity to snatch it from them« so that they sometimes ROUND THE WOBLD. 350 bought the same thing two or three times over, and after all did not get iU The captain was obliged to content himself with remaining at the landing-place among the natives, as he was not yet recovered. They had a pretty brisk trade with them for potatoes, which they observed they dug out of an adjoining plantation ; out this traffic was soon put a stop to, by the owner (as they supposed) of the plantation coming down, and driving all the people out of it. By this they concluded, that he had been robbed of his property, and that they were not less scrupulous of stealing from one another, than from them, on whom they practised every little fraud they could think on, and generally with success ; for they had no sooner detected them in one, than they found out another* A party who had been sent out in the morning to view the country, now returned : they had not proceeded far, before a middle aged man, punctured from bead to foot, and his face painted with a sort of white pigment, appeared with a spear in his hand, and walked along-side of them, making signs to his countrymen to keep at a distance, and not to molest them. When he had pretty well effected this, he hoisted a piece of white cloth on his spear, placed himself in front, and led the way, with this ensign of peace. On the east aide, near thi sea, they met with three plat- forms of stonf; work, or raf her the ruins of them. On each of which had stood four large statues, but they were all fallen down from two of them, and also one from the third j all, except one, were broken by the fall, or in some measure defaced. Mr. Wales measured this one, and found it to be fifteen feet in length, and six feet broad over the shoulders. Each statue had on its head a large cylindrical stone of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The one they measured, which was not the largest, was fiftyfcwo inches high, and sixty-six in diameter,, In some the upper corner of the cy- linder was take« off in n sort of cowQave quarter round ; but in others the cylinder was entire. Beyond ibis they came to LI 2 260 cook's voyages i !i s the most fertile part of the island, it being interspersed with plantations of potatoes, sugar-canes, and plantain-trees; but they could find no water*, except what the natives twice or thrice brought them, which, though brackish and stinking, was rendered acceptable by the extremity of their thirst. They also passed some huts, the owners of which met them with roasted potatoes and sugar-canes ; but at the very time some were relieving the thirsty and hungry, there were others who endeavoured to steal from them the very things which had been given them. At last, to prevent worse conse- quences, they were obliged to lire a load of small shot at one of them who had been so audacious as to snatch the bag which contained every thing they carried with them. The shot hit him on the back, on which he dropped the bag, ran a little way, and then fell ; but he afterwards got up and walked, and what became of him they knew not, nor whether he was much wounded. This affair occasioned some delay, and drew the natives together ; they presently saw the man who had hitherto led the way, and one or two more, come running towards them ; but, instead of stopping when they came up, they continued to run round them, repeating in a kind manner a fcAV words, until they set forwards again. Then their old guide hoisted his flag, leading the way as be- fore, and none ever attempted to steal from them the whole day afterwards. Towards the eastern end of the island they met with a well of water perfectly fresh ; but it was dirty, owing tothefilthi- ness or cleanliness (call it which you will) of the natives, who never go to drink without washing themselves all over as soon as they have done ; and if ever so many of them arc together, the first leaps right into the middle of the hole, drinks, and washes himself without the least ceremony ; aftc" which another takes his place and does the same. They observed that tiiis side of the island was full of those gigantic statues before mentioned ; some placed in groups on platforms of masoiiry ; others single, fixed only in the ROUND THE WORLD. 361 earth, and tliat not deep ; and these latter are, in general, much larger than the others. Having measured one, viXuch had fallen down, they found it very near 27 feet long, and upwards of eight feet over the shoulders ; and yet tliis appeared considerably short of the size of one they saw standing : its shade, a little past two o* clock, being suffi- cient to shelter all the party, consisting of near thirty per- sons, from the rays of the sun. They saw not an animal of any sort, and but few birds, and the captain determined to leave the island the next morning, since nothing could be oh* tained that could make it worth his while to stay. The produce of this island is sweet potatoes, yams, tarrx or eddy root, plantains, and sugar canes, all pretty good, the potatoes especially, wliich are the best of the kind they ever tasted. They have a few tame fowls, such as cocks and hens, small, but well tasted. The coast seemed not to abound with fish ; at least they could catch none with hook and line, and it was but very little they saw amongst the na- tives. The inhabitants did not seem to exceed 700 souls, and above two thirds of those they saw were males. Tbey either have but few women among them, or else many were restrained from making their appearance. In generalthe people of this isle are a slender race* They did not see a man tuat would measure six feet ; so far are they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's voyage asserts. They are brisk and active, have good features, and not dis- agreeable countenances, are friendly and hospitable to strangers, but as much addicted to pilfering as any of their neighbours. < The women's clothing is a piece or two of rjiiilted cloth, alioiit Mix ff»nt by four, or a mat. One piece wrapped round their loins, and another over their shoulders, make a com- plete dress. But the men, for the most part, are in a man- ner naked, wearing nothing but a slip of cloth betwixt their legs, each end of which is fastened to a cord or belt they ! i:i I' i i: ^^!f' 366 COOK*S VOYAGES Ihey w^re dismissed with suitable presents, and hijhiy pleased witli the reception they met ^ith. They found these people building a great number of large canoes, and houses of every kind ; people living in spacious habitations, who had not a place to shelter themselves in eight months before ; several large hogs about every house ; and every other sign of a rising state. Judging from these circumstances that they should not mend themselves by removing to another island, the captain resolved to make some stay. '^^ ^ In the morning of the 2dth, the captain went down to Oparree, accompanied by some of theofiicers and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a visit. As they drew near, they observed a number of large canoes in motion ; but were surprised when they arrived, to see upwards of three hundred ranged in order, for some distance along the shore, all completely equipped and manned, besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. So unexpected an armament collected together in their neighbourhood, in the space of one night, gave rise to various conjectures. The vessels of war con- sisted of one hundred and sixty large double canoes, very well equipped, manned and armed. The chiefs, and all those on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits ; that is, in a vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast- plates, and helmets. The vessels were decorated with Hags and streamers, so that the whole made a grand and noble appearance, such as they had never before seen in this sea, and what no one would have expected. Their '^stru- ments of war were clubs, spears and stones. Bt <. js the vessels of war, there were one hundred and sevent sail of smaller double canoes, all with a little house upon them, and rigged with a mast and sail, which the war canoes had not. These wei*e designed for transports and victuallers ; for in the war canoes was no sort of provisions whatever. In these three hundred and thirty vessels there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred and sixty men. Tupia in- formed them when they were first here, that the whole ROUND THE WORLD. 367 feland raised only between six and seven tliousaud men ; but they now saw two districts only raise that number. Tliey liad not been long gone from Oparree, before the whole fleet was in motion to the westward, whence it came. When they got to Matavai, they were told that this fleet waa part of the armament intended to go against Eimeo, whose chief had thrown oif the yoke of Otaheite, and assumed au independency. 'm In the morning of the 27th of April, the captain received a present from a chief named Towha, consisting of two large hogs and some fruit, sent by two of his servants, who had orders not to receive any thing in return ; nor would they when oflfered to them. Soon after, he went down to Oparree in his boat, where having found both this chief and the king, after a short stay, he brought them both on board to dinner, together with Tarevatoo, the king^s younger brother, and Tee, his uncle. As they drew near the ship, Towha, the admiral, who had never seen one before. Vegan to express much surprise. Hje was conducted all over the ship, every part of which he viewed with great attention. On this occasion Otoo was the principal shew-man ; for, by this time, he was well acquainted with the difierent parts of the ship. Soon after, the king and his attendants went away also. Captain Cook had been urged to assist them against Tiarabou, but to their solicitations he gave no encouragement. On the 28th, one of the natives attempted to steal a water- cask from the watering place ; he was caught in the act, sent on board and put in irons, in which situation Otoo and the other chiefs saw him. Having made known his crime to them, Otoo begged he might be set at liberty. This the captain refused, telling him, that since he punished his people when they committed the least ofience against the natives, it was but just this man should be punished also. Accordingly, he ordered the man to be carried on shore to the tents ; and having expostulated with Otoo on the 9on- duct of his people in general ; telling him, that neither he, Mm 2 ■*• r m \r ^ ■> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k if" ftf {< <^^< 1.0 1.1 11.25 «liJ 122 ■M "2.0 U ■1.6 fliotographic .Sciences CorpOTation ^"^ n ^^ •29 WIST MAIN STRIET WnSTIR,N.Y. USM (71«)t7a-4S03 > %^ 0^ COOK*S VOYAGES nor any of his people, took any thing from then, wUhoni first paying for it ; he added, that the punishing this offender would be the nneaiis of saying the liTes of others of his people, by deterring them from committing crimes of this nature. With these and other arguments, which he pretty w^ understood, he seemed satisfied, and only desired the man might not be Matterou (or killed). The captain then ordered the crowd, which was very great, to be kept at a proper distance, and in the presence of them all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lashes with the cat-of-nine-tails, which he bore with great firmness, and was then set at liberty. After this the natives were going away ; but Towha stepped forth, called them back, and harangued them for near half an hour. His speech consisted of short sentences^ which were not well understood ; but from what they could gather, he condemned their present conduct, and recom- mended a different one for the future. The gracei'ulness of his action, and the attention with which be was heard, bespoke him a great orator. Otoo said not one word. As soon as Towha had ended his speech, the captain ordered the ; ket The first news the captain heard of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had sent on board for that purpose. They were not well enough acquainted with their language to under- stand all Tee*s story ; but they understood enough to know that something had happened which had alarmed the Ung«^ In order, therefore, to be fully informed, the captain went ashore with Tee* As soon as they landed, he was informed of the whole by the seijeant who commanded the party^ The natives were all alarmed, and most of them fled. Tee and the captain went to look for Otoo ; and as they ad« raneed, he endeavoured to allay the fears of the people, but at the same time insisted on the musket being restored^ After travelling some distance into the country, Tee stopped all at once, and advised the captain to return, sayings that Otoo was gone to the mountains, and he would proceed and tell him that he (the captain) was still his friend. Tee also promised that he would use his endeavours to recover the musket. i The captain returned to the ship, and soon after he ob-* served six large canoes coming round Point Venus. There being room for suspecting that some person belonging to these Canoes had committed the theft, he came to a resola^ tion to intercept them ; and having put t»ff in a boat for that purpose, he gave orders for another to follow. One of the canoes, which was some distance ahead of the rest, came directly for the ship. He went along-side this, and was told that Otoo was then at the tents^ Pleased with this news, he contradicted the orders be had given for intercepting the other canoes, thinking they might be coming on board also. But when he landed he was told that Utoo had not been there, nor knew they any thing of him. On looking behind him, he saw all the canoes making off in the greatest hastes even the one he had left along-side the ship had evaded going on board, and was making her escape. Vexed at being thes outwitted, he resolved to ponue them, and as lie ■J 370 CO^OK^S VOYAGES .1 passed the shipy gave orders to send another boat for the same purpose. Five out of six they took, and brought along-side; but the first, which acted the finesse so well, got dear off. In one of the canoes they had taken, was a chief, a friend of Mr. Forster's, who had hitherto called himself an Earee, and would have been much offended if any one had called his title in question ; also three women, his wife and daugh-. ter, and the mother of the late Toutaha. These, together with the canoes, the captain resolved to detain, and to send the chief to Otoo ; thinking he would have weight enough with him to obtain the return of the musket, as his own property was at stake. In the dusk of the evening it was brought to the tents, together with some other things they had lost, which they knew nothing ofj by thr'se men who had pursued the thief, and taken them from him. The captain knew not if they took this trouble of their own ac- cord, or by order of Otoo. He rewarded them, and made no farther enquiry about it. When the musket and other things were brought in, every one then present, or who came after, pretended to have some hand in recovering them, and claimed a reward accordingly. But there was no one acted this farce so well as Nunc, a man of some note, and well known to the captain when he was here in 1769. This man came, with all the savage fury imaginable in his counte- nance, and a large club in his hand, with which be beat about him, in order to shew how he alone had killed the thief ; when, at the same time, they all knew that he had not been out of his house the whole time. .iaynhmMny} Things were now once more restored to their former state ; and Otoo promised, on his part, that, the next day, they should be supplied as usual. They then returned with him to his proper residence at Oparree, and there took a 'view of some of his dockyards (for such they well deserved to be called) and large canoes ; some lately built and others building; two of which were the largest they hid; •ver ROUND THE WORLD. 271 seen, under that name. They now returned to the ship. Otoo being desirous to see the great guns fire from the ship, the captain ordered twelve to be shotted and fired to- ward the sea. As he had never seen a cannon fired before, the sight gave him as much pain as pleasure. In the even- ing they entertained him with fire-works, which gave him great satisfaction. Thus ended all their differences. As the most essential repairs of the ship were nearly finished, it was resolved to leave Otaheite in a few days ; the captain accordingly ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, that the natives might see they were about to depart. On the 12th, old Oberea, the woman who, when the Dolphin was here in 1 767, was thought to be queen of the island, and whom they had not seen since 1769, paid them a visit, and brought a present of hogs and fruit. Soon after came Otoo with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. The captain was pretty liberal in his returns, thinking it might be the last time he should see these good people, who had so liberally relieved their wants ; and, in the evening, entertained them with fire- works. On the 14th, they saw a number of war canoes coming round the point of Oparree. Being desirous of having a nearer view of them, accompanied by many officers aiid gentlemen, they hastened down to Oparree, which they reached before all the canoes were lauded, and had an op- portunity of seeing in what manner they approached the shore. When they got before the place where they intended to land, they formed themselves into divisions, and then each division, one after the other, paddled in for the shore with all their might, in the most exact and regular mannb«. All their motions were observed with such quickness as clearly shewed them to be expert in their business. Otoo, who was present, caused some of their troops to go through their exercise on shore. Two parties first began with clubs ; bat this was over almost as soon as begun, so that they ■ vn COOR*I VOYAGBS had no lime to make obgerrations. They then went io lingle combat) and exhibited the Tarious methods of fighting with great alertnesi ; parrying off tho blows and pushes, which each combatant aimed at the other, with great dexterity. Tlieir arms were clubs and spears ; the latter they also use as darts. In fighting with the club, all blows intended to be given the leg^, were evaded by leaping over it; and those intended for the head, by couching a little, and leaping on one side ; thus the blow would fall to the ground. ' Their treatment at this isle was such as had induced one of the gunner*s mates to form a plan to remain at it ; but he was discovered before he could effect his purpose. Ho was an Irishman by birth, and had sailed in the Dutch service. The captain picked him. up at Batavia, on his re* turn from his former voyage, ahd he had been with him ever since. He never learnt that he had either friends or connections, to confine him io any particular part of tha world. All nations were ali^e to him. Where thee could Buch a man be more happy than at one of these isles ; mhelre, in one of the finest climates in the worlds Le oould enjoy not only the neocBsariesy btit the luxuries of Mfe, in ea^ and plenty. The two goats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoa when they were last here, seemed to promise fair for answer* ing the end for which they were put oa shore. The ewe soon after had two female kids, which were now so fiir grown as to btf nearly ready to propagate ; and the old ewe was again with kid. The people seemed to be very fond of them, and they to like their situatwn as well ; for they were in excellent condition. From this circumstance it may be hf^d that, in a few years, they will have some to spare to their neighbours ; and by that means, they may in time spread over all the isles cf this ocean. The sheep which they left, died soon after, excepting one, which they under* stood was yet alive. They have also furnished them with a stock of oats ; no lens than twenty having been given away at this isle. ROUND THE WORLD. 973 In the afternoon, on the 15th of May, tliey anchored in 0*Wharre Harbour, in the island of Huaheine, when Oree, the chief, brought a hog and other articles to the captain, who in return invited him and his friends to dinner. In the evening of the 17th» some of the gentlemen went to a dra- matic entertainment given by Oree. The piece represented a girl as running away with them from Otaheite, which was in some degree true ; as a young woman had taken a pas- sage with them down to Ulietea, and happened now to be present at the representation of her own adventures ; which had such an effect upon her, that it was with great difficulty the gentlemen could prevail upon her to see the play out, or to refrain from shedding tears while it was acting. Some of the petty officers, who had leave to go into the country for their amusement, took two of the natives with them to be their guides, and to carry their bags, containing nails, hatchets, &c. the current cash they traded with here, which the fellows made off with in the following artful manner. The gentlemen had with them two muskets for shooting birds. After a shower of rain, their guides pointed out some for them to shoot. One of the muskets having mis- sed fire several times, and the other having gone off, the instant the fellows saw themselves secure from both, they ran away, leaving the gentlemen gazing after them with so much surprise, that no one had presence of mind to pursue them. ' Early in the morning of the 23d,'ftiey unmCored and put to sea. Oree, the chief, was the last man ^ho went out of the ship. At parting, the captain told him they should see each other no more ; at which he wept, and said, ** Let your sons come, we will treat them well." As soon as they were clear of the harbour, they made sail, and stood over for the south end of Ulietea, where they dropt anchor the next day. On the 25th, a party went ashore to pay the chief a visit, and make the customary present. At their first entering his house, they were met by four or five old women, weeping c. V. 12. N n 974 C:OOK*S VOYAGES and lamenting, as it were, most bitterly, and at the same time cutting their heads with instruments made of sharks teeth, till the blood ran plentifully down their faces and on their shoulders. What was still worse, they were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that means were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony being oYer, they went out, washed themselves, and immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company. The captain made his presents, and after some little stay^ returned on board. On the 27th, they were entertained with a play, called Mididij Harramy, which signifies the Child is coming. — It concluded with the representation of a woman in labour,, acted by a set of great brawny fellows, one of whom at last brought forth a strapping boy, about six feet high, who ran about the stage, dragging after him a large wisp of straw, which hung by a string from his middle. They had an opportunity of seeing this acted another time, when it was observed, that the moment they had got hold of the fellow who represented the child, they flattened or pressed his nose. From this they judged, that they do so by their children when born, which may be the reason why all in general h^^VQ flat noses. This part of the play, from its newness, and the ludicrous manner in which it was performed, gave them, the first time they saw it, some entert^ment, and caused a loud laugh, which might be the reason why they acted it after- wards. But this, like^ 1^11 their other pieces, couldentertain them 1^0 more than once. On the 30th, one of the chiefs made the captain a preseni of two pigs ; he invited the donor to dinner, and ordered one of the pigs to be killed and dressed, which was done as fol- lows : they strangled the hog, which was done by three men ; the hog being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty strong stick across his throat, and pressed with all their weight on each end i the third man held his hind legs, kept him on his back, and plugged up bis fundament with grass ROUND THG W6RLD. 97ft to preveat any air from passing or repassing that way. In this manner tliey held him for about ten minutes before he was quite dead. The hog weighed about fifty pounds. It was baked in their usual manner. It eat well, and bad an excellent flavour. The captain having fixed on the 4th of June, his majesty^s birth day, for sailing, Oreo, the chief, and his whole family^ came on board, to take their last farewell, accompanied by Oo*oo-rou, the Earee de hi, and Boha, the Earee of Otaha, and several more of their friends. None came empty ; but Oo-oo-rou brought a pretty large present, this being his first and only visit. The captain distributed amongst them almost every thing he had left. The very hospitable mantter in which he had ever been received by these people, had en- s'eared them to him, and given them a just title to every thing in his power to grant. Oreo pressed him to return ; when the captain declined making any promises on that head, he asked the name of his Moral (burying-place). A3 strange a question as this was, he hesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney ; the parish in which he lived when in London. He was requested to repeat it several times over till they could pronounce it right ; then, Stepney Moral no Toote was echoed through a hundred mouths at once. What greater proof could they have of these people esteeming them as friends than their wishing to remember them even beyond the grave ? They had been repeatedly told that they should see them no more ; they then wanted to know where they were to mingle with their parent dust. As they could not promise, or even suppose, that more English ships would be sent to those isles, their faithful companion, Oedidee, chose to remain in his native country. But he left the ship with a regret fully demonstrative of the esteem he had for tliem. Just as Oedidee was going out of the ship, he asked the captain to Tatou some Parou for him, in order to shew the commanders of other ships, which might stop here. H^ complied with his request, gave him a ttertificate of the time Nn2 i',' ii I' As they were putting off the boat, they laid hqld o{ thp gl^pgiboard, and unhooked it off the boat*s stern. But as ihey di4 not.take it away, it was thpught,ttiat this had .f^^en O o 3 5284 COORDS VOYAGES done by accident, and he ordered the boat in again, to take it up. Then the natives hooked it over the boat's stem, and attempted to haul her ashore; others at the same time snatched the oars out of the people's hands. On pointing a musket at thero, they, in some measure desisted, but returned in an instant, seemingly determined to effect their purpose. At the head of this party was their chief. Signs and threats hav- ing no effect, their own safety became the only consideration ; the captain was unwilling to fire on the multitude, and resolved to make the chief alone fall a victim to his own treacherv ; but his musket at this critical moment missed fire. Whatever idea they might have formed of their arms, the natives must now have looked upon them as childish weapons, and began to let them see how much better theirs were, by throwing stones and dai^ts, and by shooting arrows. This made it absolutely necessary to give orders to fire. The first discharge threw them into confusion ; but a second was hardly sufiicient to drive them off the beach. Four lay, to all appearance, dead on the shore ; but two of them after- wards crawled into the bushes. Happy it was for these people, that not half the muskets would go off, otherwise many more must have fallen. One sailor was wounded in the cheek with a dart, the point of which was as thick as a little finger, and yet it entered above two inches ; which shews that it must have come with great force. An arrow struck Mr. Gilbert's naked breast, from some distance, for it hardly penetrated the skin. These arrows were pointed with hard wood. As soon as they got on board, the captain ordered the anchor to be weighed. While this was doing, several people appeared on the low rocky point, displaying two oars they had lost in the scuffle. This was supposed a sign of submis- sion, and of their wanting to give them the oars. He, never- theless, fired a four pound shot at them, to let them see the effect of their great guns. The ball fell short, but frightened them so much, that none were seen afterwards j and they ROUND THE WORLD. 285 left the oars standing against the bushes. These islanders seemed to be a different race from those of Mallicollo, and spoke a different language. They are of the middle size, have a good shape, and tolerable features. Their colour is Yery dark, and they paint their faces, some with black and others with red pigment. They saw a few women, who were very ordinary ; they wore a kind of petticoat made of palm leaves, or some plant like it. But the men, like those of Mallicolo, were in a manner naked ; having only the belt about the waist, and the piece of cloth, or leaf, used as a wrapper. In the night of the 5th of August, they saw a volcano, which they observed to throw up vast quantities of fire and smoke, with a rumbling noise heard at a great distance. They now made sail for the island whence it appeared, and presently after discovered a small inlet, which had the ap- pearance of a good harbour. The wind left them as soon as they were within the entrance, and obliged them to drop an anchor in four fathoms water. After this, the boats were sent to sound. Many of the natives now got together in parties, on several parts of the shore, all armed. Some swam off to them ; others came in canoes* At first they were shy and kept at the distance of a stone's throw; they grew insensibly bolder, and at last, came under their stern, and made some exchanges. The people in one of the first canoes, after coming as near as they durst, threw towards them some cocoa-nuts. The captain went into a boat and picked them up, giving tliem in return some cloth and other articles. This induced others to come under the stern, and along>side, where their behaviour was insolent and daring. They wanted to carry off every thing within their reach ; and got hold of the fly of the ensign, and would have torn it from the staff, A few muskets fired in the air had no effect ; but a four- pounder frightened them so much, that they quitted their canoes that instant, and took to the water. But as soon as they found themselves unhurt, they got again into their 386 C0OK*8 VOYAGES canoes, gave some biUloos, flourished |t}feir weapeos, :^ii4 returned to Uie buoys. This put theni to lUe expence of a. few musquetoon balls, which had the desired eQect, without killing any of them. Towards Uie evening, the captain landed at the head of the harbour, with a strong party of men, without any op- position being made by a great number of the natives, whp nrere assembled in two parties, the one on the rjight, the otjbier on the left, aU armed* After distributing to t^ (dd people (£or they could distinguish no chief,) an4 some others, presents of cloth, medals, &c. he ordered two casks to he filled with water out of a pond, about twenty paces behind Ahe landing-place, gjvinr the natives to understand that ^his was one of the articles they wanted. Resides water, they ^ott 6^ow them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed to ho in plenty on t^e trees ; hu,t they could not he prevailed upon to part mi^ any of thep^r ;iveapons. WhUe they were hringing Ahe sMp i^ar >the shoce, to wood and ijrater, they observed the Xiatlves assembling from all parts, and forming themselves iirto two parties, as tthey did the preqedi^ng evening, oine on «n(ib side Abe landing-^place, to the amount of eomp .^hou- ■sands, : Acmed as hefore. A canoe, now and then, came off, luunguig afeW'Qoa-nuts orplaintains. Th® <)<^P^in >n^4o an ddiinan,iwho, seemed :well disposed^ ^understand, by siguiif, ihat they were to 4ay aside their weapopp, and throwing ihose thfttwere inthe.eanoe ptvevhoacd, made him a ji^resent of a ilarge piece of cloth. There tii^fts no dcinbt that he under- stood him, and made this request l^nownjto his .countrymen; for as sooUias he landed, they phserved hipi go ^rst to the ^oneparty^ jmd ^en:to the other;;nqr was ^e.e^rer after sefP with.any thin^ like a weRppn,in his h^n^. iVCter,this, ,thi;ee fellows ;came in a canoe ;under the ptern^ one of them ihran- -dishing a';ayed, shewed that people had lately been on the isle. The hull of a canoe lay wrecked in the sand. Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding-sail booms, boats, masts, &c. and night approaching, they returned on board. ROUND THB WORLD. 301 The purpose for which they anchored under this isle beings answered, it was necessary to consider what was next to be done. They had, from the top-mast head, taken a view of the sea around, and observed the whole, to the west, to be strewed with small islots, sand banks, and breakers, to the utmost extent of their horizon. This induced the captain to try to get without the shoals. Next morning^, at day break, the 30th of September, they got under sail, and met with no occurrences worthy of re- mark for several days. In the evening of the 8th of Octo- ber, Mr. Cooper having struck a porpoise with a harpoon, it was necessary to bring to, and have two boats out, before they could kill it, and get it on board. It was six feet long ; a female, of that kind which naturalists call dolphins of the ancients, which differs from the other kind of porpoise in the head and jaw, having them long and pointed. This had eighty -eight teeth in each jaw. The haslet and lean flesh, were to them a feast. It was eaten roasted, broiled, and fried, first soaking it in warm water. Indeed, little prepa- ration was wanting to make any thing fresh palatable to people who had been living so long on salt meat. On the 10th, at day-break, they discovered land, bearing S. W. which, on a nearer approach, they found to be an island of good height, and five leagues in circuit. It was named Norfolk Isle, in honour of the noble family of How- ard. After dinner, a party embarked in two boats, and landed on the isle without difiiculty, behind some large rocks which lined part of the coast. They found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly the first that ever set foot on it. They observed several trees and plants common at New Zealand ; and, in particular, the flax plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any part of that country ; but the chief produce is a species of spruee pine, which grows in abundance, and to a large size, being as thick, breast high, as two men could fhthom, and exceedingly straight and tall. It resembles the Quebec pine. For about two hundred ill I*'. I I 302 COOKS VOY OES yards from the shore, the ground is covered so thick ifith shrubs and plants, as hardly to be penetrated farther iixland. The woods were perfectly clear and free from underwood, and the soil seemed rich and deep. They found the same kind of pigeons, parrots, and parroquet8,as in New Zealand, rails, and some small birds. The sea fowl breed undisturbed on the shores, and in the cliffs of the rooks. On the isle is fresh water ; and cabbage-palro» yood-sorrel, sow«thistle, and samphire abounding in some places on the shore, they brought on board as much of e$ich sort as ^he time they bad to gather them would admit. After leaving Norfolk Isle, they steered for New Zealand, intending to touch at Queen Charlotte^s Soimd) to refresh the crew, and put the ship in a condition to encounter the southern latitudes. On the 17th, at day-break, they saw Mount Egmont, which was covered with everlasting snow. On the 18th, they anchored before Ship Cove; and, in the afternoon, the captain went into the cove, with the seine, to try to catch some fish. The first thing he did after landing, was to look for the bottle he had left when last here, in which was the memorandum. It was taken away, but by whom it did not appear. Two hauls with the seine producing only four small fish, they in some measure made up for this defi- ciency, by shooting several birds. Being little wind next morning, they weighed and warped the ship into the cove, and there moored. Here the forge was erected, and the ship and rigging repaired. The captain gave orders that vegetables should be boiled every morning with oat- meal and portable broth for breakfast, and with peas and broth every day for dinner for the whole crew, over and above their usual allowance of salt meat. In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales was setting up his observatory, he discovered that several trees, which were standing when they last sailed from that place, had been cut down with saws and axes. It was therefore now no longer to be doubted, that the Advea- tuve had becsn in this cove after they left it* ROUND THE WORLD. 3QS Nothing remarkable happened till the 24tli, when, in tlie morning) two canoes were seen coming down the sound ; but as soon as they perceived the ship they retired. After breakfast thsy went in a boat to look for them ; and as they proceeded along the shore, they shot several birds. The report of the muskets gave notice of their approach ; and the natives dis- covered themselves in Shag Cove, by hallooing to them. The moment they landed the natives knew them ; and the rest hurried out of the woods, and embraced them over and over again, leaping and skipping about like mad-men ; but it was observed that they would not suffer some women, whom they saw at a distance, to come near them. After they had made them presents of hatchets, knives, and what else they had with them, they gave in return a large quantity offish, which they had just caught. Next morning early, the inha- bitants paid them a visit on board, and brought with them a quantity of fine fish, which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth. On the 28th, a party went a shooting to West Bay, and came to the place where they left the hogs and fowls ; but saw no vestiges of them, nor of any body having been there since. In the evening, they got on board with about a dozen and a half of wild fowls, shags, and sea-pies. The sportsmen who had been out in the woods near the ship, were more successful among the small birds. On the 6th of November, their old friends having taken up theirabode near them, one named Pedro, (a man of some note) made the captain a present of a statTof honour, such as the chiefs generally carry. In return, he dressed him in a suit of old clothes, of which he was not a little proud. Having got this person and another into a communicative mood, he began to enquire of them if the Adventure had been there during his absence ; and they gave them to understand, in a manner which admitted of no doubt, that, soon after they were gone, she arrived ; that she staid between ten and twenty days, and had been gone ten months. The 8th, they put two pigs, a boar, and a sow, on shore, in the cove next 304 COOK*S VOYAGES r: I . ll.i ' If ithout CanAbal Cove ; so that it is hardly possible all the methods the captain has taken to stock this country with these animals should fail. On the 0th, the natives having brought a very seasonable supply of fish, the captain be- stowed on Pedro a present of an empty oil-jar, which made him as happy as a prince. In the afternoon, a party went on shore into one of the coves, where were two families of the natives variously employed ; some sleeping, some mak- ing mats, some roasting fish and fire-roots, and one girl was heating of stones. As soon as the stones were hot, she took them out of the fire, and gave them to an old woman, who was sitting in a hut. She placed them in a heap, laid over them a handful of green celery, and over that a coarse mat, and then squatted herself down, on her heels, on the top of all ; thus making a kind of Dutch warming- pan, on which she sat as close as a hare on her seat. The captain supposes it was to cure some disorder she might have on her, which the steam arising from the green celery might be a specific for. On the 10th of November, they took their farewell of New Zealand, and steered for Cape Campbell. The captain^s intention now was to cross this vast ocean, so as to pass over those parts which were left unexplored the preceding sum- mer. On Saturday, the 17th of December, they made the land, about six leagues distant. On this discovery, they wore and brought to, with the ship's head to the south; and having sounded, found seventy-five fathoms water, the bot- tom stone and shells. The land now before them could be no other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west entrance of the straights of IVIagellan. This was the first run they had made directly across this ocean, in a high southern latitude. The captain says he never made a passage, any where, of such length, where so few interesting circumstances occurred; for, the variation of the compass excepted, he met with nothing else worth notice. Here they took their leave of the South Pacific Ocean. SI (I ROUND THE WORLD. 305 On the 18th of December, as they continued to range the coast, about two leagues distance, they passed a projecting point, which was calic^d Cape Gloucester. It shews a round surface of considerable height, and has much the appearance of being an island, distant seventeen lengues from the isle of Landfall. On the '2.th, at noon, they observed York Minster, then distant five leagues. At ten o^clock a breeze springing up at E. by S. they took this opportunity to stand io for the land, to recruit their stock of wood and water, and take a view of the country. Here was found plenty of wood and water, and they set about doing what was neces- sary to the ship, the outside of which was become very foul. The captain was now told of a melancholy accident which had befallen one of the marines. He had not been seen since eleven or twelve o'clock the preceding night, it was supposed that he had fallen overboard, out of the head, where he had been last seen, and was drowned. On the 23rd, Mr. Pickersgill was sent in the cutter to ex* plore the east side of the sound, with an intent to survey the island under which they were at anchor, and which the cap- tain called Shag Island. About seven in the evening he returned, and reported, that the land opposite to their sta- tion was an island which he had been round ; that between it and the east head lay a cove, in which were many geese. This information induced them to make up two shooting parties next day ; Mr. Pickersgill and his associates going In the cutter, and the captain and the botanists in the pin- nace. Mr. Pickersgill went in one direction, and the captain in another, and they had sport enough among the geese, whence this was called Goose Island. There being a high surf, they found great difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when they were landed ; so that hundreds of the geese escaped, some into the sea, and others up into the land. They, however, by one means or other, got sixty-two, with which they returned on board all heartily tired; but the acquisition they had made over- c. V. 13. R r I( I 30C COOK*S VOYAGES bftlanced erery other consideration, and they lat down tvitli a good appetite to supper, on part of what the preceding day had produced. Mr. Pickersgiil and his associates had got on board some time before with fourteen geese, so that tliey were able to distribute to the whole crew, which was the more acceptable on account of the approaching festival ; for had not Providence thus singularly provided for them, their Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and porki The next morning, the S5th, some of the natives paid them a visit. They are a little, ugly, half starved, beardless race ; not a tall person appeared amongst them. They were al- most naked; their only clothing was a seal skin. The women cover their nakedness with the flap of a seal skin, but in other respects are clothed like the men. Two young children were seen at the breast entirely naked ; thus they are inured from their infancy to cold and hardships. They had with them bows and arrows ; and darts, or rather har- poons, made of bone, and fitted to a staiT, They, and every thing (hey had, smelt most intolerably of train oil. The women and children remained in their canoes. These were made of bark ; and in each was a fire, over which the poor creatures huddled themselves. They likewise carry in their canoes large seal hides to shelteir them when at sea, and to serve as coverings to their huts on shore ; and occa- sionally to be used as sails. The natives all retired before dinner ; indeed no one invHed them to stay. Their dirty persons, and the stench they carried about them, were enough to spoil the appetite of any European, and that would have been a real disappointment, as the ship*8 com- pany had not experienced such fare for some time. Roast and boiled geese and goose>pye, was a treat little known to them, and they had yet some Madeira wine left, which ivas the only article of provision that was mended by keep- ing; so that their friends in England did not, pethaps, celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than they did. This was named Christmas Sound. Next day the natives made ROUND THE World. ao7 de another visit ; and it bein^ dittressing to lee them stand trembling and naked on the deck, the captain humanely gave them some baise and old canyass to cover themselves. The refreshments to be got here are precarious, as they are chiefly wild fowl, and may probably never be found in such plenty as to supply the crew of a ship. They consist of geese, ducks, sea-pies, shags, and that kind of gull called Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, ealled by the sailors, race horses, on account of the great swiftness with which they run on the water ; for they cannot fly, the wings being too short to support the body in the ur. The geese too are much smaller than the English tame geese, but eat as well. They have short black bills and yellow feet. The gander is all white; the female is spotted black and white, or grey, with a large, white spot on each wing. The captain says, of all the nations he had seen, these people seem to be the most wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in the world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such conveniences as may render life, in some measure, more comfortable. Barren as this country is, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, and gave sufficient employment to Mr. Forster and his party. On the S8th, they weighed and stood out to sea, resum- ing their course to the east ; and the next day they passed Cape Horn, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. From Cape Horn, they stood over for Success Bay, as- sisted by the currents, which set to the north. . Before this, they had hoisted their colours, and fired two guns ; and soon after, they saw a smoke rise out of the woods, above the south point of the bay, which was supposed to be made by the natives. As soon as they got off the bay, Lieut. Pickersgill went to see if any traces remained of the Adven- ture ; but he saw not the least signs of any ship having been there lately. The captain had inscribed his ship's name on a eardy which he nailed to a tree, at the place where the a r 2 % 308 COOK*S VOYAGES ( : Endeavour watered. In the morning, at three o'clock, they bore up for the east end of Staten Land, where they arrived Viext day in the afternoon. After dinner they hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large party of men ; some to kill seals ; others to catch or kill birds, fish, or what came in in their way. To find the ibrmer, it mattered not where they landed, for the whole shore was covered with them ; and by the noise they made, one would have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. On landing, they found they were a different animal from seals, but in shape and motion exactly resembling them. The sailors called them lions, on account of the great resemblance the male had to that beast. Here were also the same kind of seals which they found in New Zealand, generally known by the name of sea-bears ; at least they gave them that name. They were in general so tame, or rather stupid, as to suffer them to come near enough to knock them down with sticks ; but the large ones were shot ; not thinking it safe to approach them. They also found on the island, penguins, shags, geese and ducks, some birds of prey, and a few small birds. In the evening they returned on board with plenty of spoil. Next day, being January 1st, 1775, finding that nothing was wanting bit a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships to refresh at, which chance or design might bring hither, Mr. Gilbert wjnt over to Staten Land in the cutter, to look for a good harbour. The captain also sent two other boats, which returned laden with sea-lions, sea-bears, &c. The old lions and bears were killed chiefly for the sake of their blubber, or fat, to make oil of; for ex- cept their haslets, which were tolerable, the flesh was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. But the young cubs were very palatable ; and even the flesh of some of ihe old lionesses was not much amiss. About ten o^clock, Mr. Gilbert returned from Siaten Land, where he found a good port, situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St. John. It is aim )st two miles in length ; in some places near ROUNB THE WORLD. 309 a mile broad. On the island were sea-lions and seals, and such a quantity of gulls, as to darken the air when dis- turbed, and almost to suffocate the people with their dung* This they seemed to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse than assafcetida. The day on which this port was discovered, occasioned the captain^s calling it New-year's Harbour. The sea-lions found here were not of that kind described, under the same name, by Lord Anson ; but these would more properly deserve that appellation, the long hair, with which the back of tbt^ head, the neck, and shoulders, are co- vered, giving them greatly the air and Appearance of a lion. The female is not half so big as the male, and is covered with short hair, of an ash or light dun colour. They live, as it were, in herdc, on the rocks and near the sea-shore. The sea-bears are not so large, by far, as the lions, but ra- ther larger than a common seal. They have not that long hair which distinguishes the lion. Theirs is all of an equal length, and finer than that of the lion, something like an ot- ter^s, and the general colour is iron grey. This is the kind which the French call sea- wolves, and the English seals ; they are, howeve", different from the seals in Europe and North America. The lions may, without any great impro- priety, be called overgrown seals ; for they are all of the same species. It was not at all dangerous to go among them ; for they either fled or lay still. The only danger was in going betWAea them and the sea; for if they took fright at any thing, they would come down in such numbers, that if you could not get out of ..heir way, you wouM be run over. The oceanic birds are gulls, tern, Port Egmont hens, and a large brown bird, of the size of an albatross, which Pernety calls quebrant hahuessas. The sailors called them Mother Garey*s geese, and found them pretty good eating. The land birds were eagles, or hawks, bald-headed vulture'}, or what the sailors callec* turkey-buzzartis, thrushes, aad a few other small birds. It is amazing to see how tho different ^ 310 COOk^S VOYAGBS ( ! i r. m ,ii animals, which inhabit this place are mutually reconciled. They seem to have entered into a league, not to disturb each other's tranquillity. The sea-lions occupy most of the coast ; the sea-bears take up their aboae in the isle ; the shags have post in the highest cliffs ; the penguins lix their quarters i/rhere there is the most easy communication with the sea ; and the other birds choose more retired places. Capt. Cook says, he has seen these animals mix together, like domestic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one attempting to molest the other. Having left the land in the eycning of the 3d, they saw it again next morning, bearing west. On the 14th, at 9 o*clock in the motuing, they descried an island of ice, as they then thought ; but at noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land : it turned out to be the latter, and was, in a manner, wholly covered with snow^ On the 16th, they began to explore the northern coast, and the next morning they made sail for the land. As soon as they drew near the shore, having hoisted out a boat, the captain embarked in it, accompanied h^ Mr. Forster and his party, with a view of recounoitering before they ven- tured in with the ship, which they afterwards declined, as the inner parts of the country were savage and horrible. The wild rocks raised tlieir lofty summits, till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be seen, or a shrub even big enough to make a tooth-pick. They found here nearly th« same animals as in New-year*s Harbour. Since tlieir ar- rival on this coast, the captain ordered, in ^addition to the .ommon allowance, wheat to be boiled every morning for breakfast; but any kind of fresh meat was preferred by most on board to salt ; the captain ssid he was heartily tired ef salt meat of every kind ; and though the flesh of the pen- guins could scarcely vie with bullock^s liver, its being fresh was sufficient to make it go down. They called the bay they were in Possession Bay. As soon as the boat was hoisted in, thty made sail along the coast to the eas^., tor ROUND THE WORLD. 311 M the space of eleren or twelve leagues, to a projecting point, whi^^ obtained the name of Cape Saunders. Beyond this cape is a pretty large bay, which was named Cumberland Bay. On the 20th, they fell in with au island, which they named the Isle of Georgia, in honour of his majesty. It extends thirty-one leagues ia length -, and its breadth is about ten leagues. It seems to abound with bays and harbours, the N. E. coast especially ; but the Tast quantity of ice on the coast renders them inaccessible the greatest part of the year* From the 20th to the 27th, they had a continuation of foggy weather. Growing tired of high southern latitudes, where nothing was to be found but ice and thick fogs, they stood to the east, and soon fell in with a vast number of large ice-islands, and a sea strewed with loose ice. For this rea> son they tacked and stood to the west, with the wind at north. The ice-islands, which at this time surrounded them, were nearly all of equal height, and shewed a flat even r urface. On the 1st of February, they got sight of a new coast. It proved a high promontory, which was named Cape Montagu, but prudence would not permit them to venture near the shore, where there was no anchorage, and where every port was blocked or filled up with ice; and the whole country, from the summits of the mountains do'vn to the very brink of the clifs which terminate the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with everlasting snow. It was now necessary to take a view of the land to the north, before they proceeded any farther to the east. On the the 3d, they saw two isles. The day on which they were discovered was the cause of their being called Candlemas Isles. They were of no great ex- tent, but of considerable height, and were covered with snow. On the 4th, they resumed their course to the east. About noon they met with several ice-islands, and some loose ice, the weather continuing hazy, with snow and rain. The risk run in exploring a coast, in these unknown and icy leas, is so very great, that no m.an, the captain says, will 312 COOK S VOYAGES 11 , i i; 1 M 1 V '• ..' ; r ■f. ■' 't 1 I.' 1 [i ;.! ever venture farther than he has done ; and therefore the lands which may lie to the south will never be explored. ' Thick fo^s, snow storms, intense cold, and every thin^ that can render navigation dangerous, must be encountered ; and these dangers are greatly heightened by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the country ; a country doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of the sun's rays, but to lie buried in everlasting snow and ice. The ports which may be on this coast, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast thickness ; but if any should be so far open as to invite a ship into it, she would run the risk of being fixed there for ever, or of coming out in an ice island. After such u - ^^^nation as this, the reader will not ex- pect to find them u h farther to the south. It was, how- ever, not for want of inclination, but for other reasons. It would have been rashness to have risked all that had been done during the voyage, in discovering a coast, which, when discovered, would have answered no end whatever, or been of the least use, either to navigation or geogra- phy ; or indeed to any other science ; and, besides all this, they were not now in a condition to undertake great things; nor indeed was there time, had they been ever so well pro- vided. These reasons induced the captain to alter his course to the east, with a very strong gale at north, attended with an exceedingly heavy fall of snow. The quantity which lodged in their sails was so great, that they were frequently obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it out of them, otherwise neither they nor the ship could have sup- ported the weight. On the 10th, the weather became fair, but piercing cold, so that the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mer- cury in the thermometer was no higher than thirty-four and a half. On the 32nd of February, as they were within two degrees of longitude from their route to the south, when they left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purpose to proceed any farther to the east under this parallel, knowing^ ROUND THE WORLD. 313 thai 110 hrnd could be there. They had now made the ^circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and tra- versed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the pole, out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, they had not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many new ones, and left very little more to be done in that part. Thus the intention of the voyage has, in every respect, been fully answered ; the southern hemisphere sufficiently explored, and a final end put to the searching after a southern continent. Their sails and rigging were so much worn, that something was giving way every hour; and they had nothing left either to repair or replace them. Their provisions were in a state of decay, and yielded little nourishment, and they had been a long time without refreshments. The sailors indeed were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever they were led ; but they dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them, at a time when they had nothing left to remove it. It would however have been cruel to have con- tinued the fatigues and hardships they were continually ex« posed to, longer than it was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour, throughout the whole voyage, merited every indulgence which it was possible to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed themselves capa- ble of surmounting every difficulty and danger which came in their way, and never once looked either upon one or the otner, as being at all heightened, by their separation from their consort, the Adventure. On the 8th of March, the mercury in the thermometer rose to sixty- one, and they found it necessary to put on lighter clothes. On the 12th, they put a boat into the water, and shot some albatrosses and petrels, which, at this time, were highly acceptable. Every one was now become impatient to get into port ; this induced the captain to yield to the general wish, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope. The c. v. 14. S s 314 €OOK*S VOYAQBt Vi I ■ i: I' f captain now demanded of the officers and petty officers, the log-bopks and journals they had kept; which were delivered accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the admi- ralty. He also enjoined them, and the crew, not to divulge where they had been, till they had their lordships* permis- sion so to do. In the evening of the 17th, they saw land about six leagues distant. Next day, having little or no wind, they hoisted out a boat, and sent on board a ship, which was about two leagues from them, but they were too impatient after news to regard the distance. Soon after three sail more appeared in sight to windward, one of which shewed English colours. The boat returning, reported that they had visited a Dutch East Indiaman, whose captain very obligingly offered them sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare. They were told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the natives of New Zealand. On the 10th, the True Briton, Capt. Broadley, from China, bore down to them. As this ship did not intend ta touch at the Cape, the captain put a letter on board for ihe secretary of the Admiralty. The melancholy account tbey had heard of the Adventure was now confirmed. From this ship they procured a parcel of old news-papers, which were new to them, and gave them some amusement ; but these were the least favours they received from Capt. Broadley. Witli a generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company *s ships, he sent them fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were very acceptable and deserve this public acknowledgment. In the afternoon they parted company. The True Briton stood out to sea, and they in for the land. The next morning, being with them Wednes- day the 2*2nd, but with the people here Tuesday the 3l8t, they anchored in Table Bay, where tbey found several Dutch ships ; some French ; and the Ceres, Capt. Newte, . t ROUND THE WORLD. 315 an Eiig^lish Bast India Company^s ship, from China, bound directly to England, by whom they sent a copy of the pre- ceding part of this journal, some charts, and other draw- ings, to the Admiralty. Before they had well got to an anchor, the captain dispatched an officer to acquaint the governor with their arrival, and to request the necessary stores and refreshments ; which were readily granted. The captain now learned that the Adventure had called here, on her return ; and he found a letter from Capt. Fur- neaux, acquainting him with the loss of his boat, and often of his best men, in Queen Charlotte^s Sound. He after- wards, on his arrival in England) put into Capt. Cook*s hand a complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of their second and final separation ; which is here detailed, to complete the history of this voyage. > ■ '>> In October, 1773, they were blown off the coast of New Zealand ; when they parted company with the Resolution, and never saw her afterwards. They combated violent storms till the 6th of November ; when, being to the north of Cape Palliser, they bore away for some bay to complete their water and wood, being in great want of both ; having been at the allowance of one quart of water for some days past ; and even that pittance could not be come at above six or seven days longer. They anchored at Tolaga Bay. Wood and water were easily to be had. The natives here are the same as those at Charlotte Sound, but more numerous. In one of their canoes they observed the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers and other ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive ; but, on examination, thtiy found it dry, being preserved with every feature per- fect, ^nd kept as the relic of some deceased relation. Hav- ing got about ten tuns of water and some wood, they sailed for Charlotte Sound on the ISth ; but violent weather pre- vented them from reaching it till the 30th. They saw nothing of the Resolution, and began to doubt her safety ; but on going on 8hore> they disct^^ned the place where she 8 s 3 Si aid C'OOK*S VOYAGES ' :l'V 11 l-l' II.;; '( . -i It '1 ■.: !H had erected her tents ; and, on an old stump of a tree in the garden, observed these words cut out, " Look underneath.** There they dug, and soon found a bottle, corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Capt. Cook, signifying their arrival on the 8rd instant, and departure on the 24th, and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of the Straights, to look for them. They immediately set about the necessary repairs of the ship, which employed them till the 16th of December. Next day, they sent the large cutter, with Mr. Rowe, a midshipman, and the boafs crew, to gather wild greens for the 8hip*s company ; with orders to return that evening, as they intended to sail the next morning. But, on the boat's not returning the same evening, nor the next morn- ing, the second lieutenant, Mr. Burney, in the launch, manned with the boat's crew and ten marines, went in search of her. Mr. Burney returned about eleven o*elock the same night, and informed them of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be better described than in his own words. << On the 18th, we left the ship ; and having a light breeze in our favour, we soon got round Long Island. I examined every cove, on the larboard-hand, as we went along, looking well all around with a telescope. At half past one, we stopped at a beach on the left hand side going up East Bay, to boil some victuals. Whilst we were cook- ing, I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running swiftly along a beach to the head of the bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat and put off; and, in a short time, arrived at the head of this reach, where we saw an Indian settlement* '* As we drew near, some of the Indians came down to the rocks, and waved for us to be gone ; but seeing we disre^ garded them, they altered their notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of them double ones, and a great many people. Leaving the boat's crew to guard the boat, I stepped ashore with the marines (the oor- ROUND THE WORLD. 317 'I poral and five men) and searched many of their liouses, but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a bundle of he- patoos (long spears), but seeing I looked very earnestly at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, a good mile. 1 looked all around with the glass, but saw no boat, canoe, or any sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along. *^ I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement, where the Indians invited us ashore. I enquired of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after we left this place, on a small beach ad- joining Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just hauled up, with two men and a dog. The men on seeing us left their canoe, and ran up into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get tidings of the cutter. We went ashore, searched the canoe, and found one of the ruUock-ports of the cutter, and some shoes, one of which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our mid- shipmen. One of the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining this and smelling it, I found it to be fresh. Mr. Fannin (the master) who was with me, supposed it was dog's flesh, and I was of the same opinion ; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon convinced by the most horrid and unde- niable proof. -..-,. J .:.-.,. 0. t ;- ** A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach, tied up, we cut them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some of fern>root, which serves them for bread. Oh farther ■e«reb> we found more shoes, and a hand, which we 818 COOK*S VOTAOEft i I II 1 V:f immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of oar forecastle-men, it being marked T. H. with an Ota- heitean tattow instrument. I went with some of the people a little way into the woods, but saw nothing else. Coming down again, there was a round spot covered with fresh earth, about four feet in diameter, where something had been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with a cutlass ; and in the mean time I launched the canoe, with intent to destroy her ; but seeing a great smoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into the boat, and made what haste I could to be with them before sun-set. *^ On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, and a great many people on the beach, who, on our approach, retreated to a small hill, about a ship^s length from the water side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire - us on the top of the high land, beyond the woods, whence, all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. The savages on the hill still kept hallooing, and making signs for us to land ; however, as soon as we got close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them much ; but on the second they began to scramble away, as fast as they could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Among the In- dians were two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves forsaken by their companions ; and then marched away with great composure and delibe- ration, their pride not suffering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, cr crawled away on all fours. The other got dear, without, any apparent hurt. I then landed with the marines, and Mr. Fannin staid to guard the boat. « On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was Muck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes ; a proof that the attack had been made here ROUND THE WORLD. $19 we 1 then searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, we saw such a shocking scene of carnage and barbarity, as never can be mentioned or thought of but with horror ; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people, were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails. ** Whilst we remained almost stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to us that he heard the sayages gathering to- gether in the woods ; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling along-side the canoes, we demolished threQ .sah'.i y, While they" lay in the road, a sloop belonging to Ber- muda, had sailed but a few days b ;fore with one hundred and five turtle on board, which was as many as he could take in ; but having turned several more on the different sandy beaches, they had ripped open their bellies, taken out the eggs, and left the carcases to putrefy ; an act as inhu- man as injurious to those who came after them. Turtle, it is said, are to be found at this island from January to June. The method of catching them is to have people on the seve- ral sandy bays, to watch their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which is alwavs in the night, and then to turn them pa their backs till there be an opportanity to take them off ROUND THB WORLD. 3S3 the next day. Nothing is more certain, than that all the turtle which are found about this island, come here for the sole purpose of laying their egg's ; for they metr with none but females ; and of all those which they caught, not one had any food worth mentioning in its stomach ; a sure sign that they must have been a long time without any ; and may be the reason why the flesh of them is not so good as those caught on the coast of New South Wales, where they feed. On the 31st of May, they left Ascension, and steered to the northward. They had a great desire to visit the island of St. Matthew, to settle its situation ; but as they found the wind would not let them fetch it, they steered for the island of Fernando de Noronha, on the coast of Brasil, in order to determine its longitude. On the Otli of June, at noon, they made that place, distance six or seven leagues It appeared in detached and peaked hills, the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. When they arrived in the road, a gun being fired from one of the forts, the Portuguese colours were displayed, and the example was followed by all the other forts. Having speedily ascertained the lon- gitude, they bore away without landing. ' By the 18th, they made no doubt that they had :iow got the N. E. trade-wind, as it was attended with fair weather, except now and then some light showers of rain ; and as they advanced to the north the wind increased, and blew a fresh top-gallant gale. On the 21st, the captain ordered the still to be fitted to the largest copper, which held about sixty-four gallons. The fire was lighted at four o'clock in the morning, and at six the still began to rur It was con- tinued till six in the evening ; in which time they obtained thirty-two gallons of fresh water, at the expence of one bushel and a half of coals, which was about three-fourths of a bushel more than was necessary to have boiled the ship's company's victuals only ; but the expence of fuel was no object with them. Upon the whole, this is an useful invention ; but the captain says, he would advise notnan to trust wholly T t 2 Id (I i rhy ' |i ' ji ''l . : «. II ■ill-' . 334 COORDS VOYAGES to it. For although you may, proYided you have plenty of fuel and good coppers^ obtun as much water as will support life, you cannot, with all your efforts, obtain sufficient to support health, in hot climates especially, where it is the most wanting. Nothing worth mentioning happened till the 13th of July, when they made the island of Fayal, one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico. At day break the next morn- ing, they bore away for the Bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where at eight o*c>ock they anchored. The sole design in stopping here, was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable them to fix, with some degree of certainty, the longitude of these islands. The moment they anchored, the captain sent an officer to wait on the English coi sul, and to notify his arrival, re- questing permission for Mr. Wales to make observations on shore. Mr. Dent, who acted as consul, not only pro- cured this permission of tbs governor, but accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden to set up his instruments ; and, indeed, entertained all the gentlemen on board in the most liberal and hospitable manaer. During their stay, the ship*s company was served with fresh beef ; and they took on board about fifteen tuns of water, which they brought off in the country boats, at the rate of about three shillings per tun. The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which they supply Pico and some other isles. The chief town is called Villa de Uorta. It is situated in the bottom of the bay, close to the edge of the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town, and a wall of stone- work, extending along the sea-shore from the one to the other. There is not a glass window in the place, except what -re in the cburohes, and in a country bouse which lately belonged to the English consul ; all the others being latticed, which, to an Englishman, makes them look like prisons. This little city, like all others belonging ROUND THE WORLD. 325 to the Portuguese, Is crowded nvith religious buildings. Fayaly although the most noted for wines, does not raise sufficient for its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, where there is no road for shipping ; but ^ Aag brought to De Horta, and from thence shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal wine. Having left the bay in the morning of the 10th, they steered for the island of Tercera, in crder to ascertain its length ; but the weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, they gave up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for England. On the 29th of July, they made the land near Plymouth. The next morning, they anchored at Spithead; and the same day, Capt. Cook landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London, in company with Messrs. Wales, Forsters, and Hodges. Having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, in which time, and under all changes of climate, he lost but four men, and only one of them by sickness, it may not be amiss, to enumerate the several causes, to which, under the care of Providence, the captain says, he conceives this uncommon good state of health, experienced by his people, was owing. They were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made sweet- wort. To such of the men as shewed the least symptoms of the scurvy, this was ^iven, from one to two or three pints a day, each man ; or in such proportion as the surgeon found necessary. This is, without doubt, one of the best antiscorbutic sea medicines yei disco- vered, if used in time. Sour krout, of which th ey had a large quantity, is a wholesome vegetable food, highly antiscor- butic, and it spoils not by keeping. A pound o this wa» served to each man, when at sea, twice a week, or oftener, as was thought necessary. Portable broth was another great article, of which they had a small supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other proportion as circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their peas, three days a week ; and. when they were in places where vegetables were to be 33d COOR*S VOYAGES ^ got, it was boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal, every mornings for breakfast ; and also with peas and vegetables for dinner. Rob of lemon and orange, also, the surgeon made use of in many cases with great success. But the in- troduction of the most salutary articles, either as provisions or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless sup- ported by certain regulations. On this principle, many years experience, together with some hints the captain had from other intelligent officers, enabled him to lay a plan whereby all were to be governed. The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary occasions. By ^'ais means they were not so much exposed to the weather, as if they had been at watch and watch ; and had generally dry clothes to shift themselves when they happened to get wet. Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, and clothes constantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the ship clean and dry, betwixt decks. Once or twice a week she was aired with fires ; and when this could not be done, she was smoked with gunpow- der, mixed with vinegar or water. They had also, fre- quently, a fire made in an iron pot, at the bottom of the well, which was of great use in purifying the air in the lower parts of the ship. To this, and to cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great attention cannot be paid ; the least neglect occasions a putrid and disagreable smell below, which nothing but fires will remove. Captain Cook concludes his account of this his second voyage round the world as follows ; " It doth not becotde me to say how far the principal objects of our voyage have been obtained. Had we found out a continent there, we might have been better enabled to gratify curiosity ; but we hope our not having found it, after all our persevering researches, will leave lera room for future speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored. Whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is uith real satis- faction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention %. ROUND TUB WORLD. 9«7 * > to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an ob- servation, which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the possibility of preserving health among a nu- merous ship's company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a southern continent shall have ceased to occupy the attention, and to divide the judgment of philosophers.*' We shall only add, that during this voyage, Capt. Cook resolved the great problem of a southern continent, having traversed that hemisphere in such a manner, as not to leave a possibility of its existence, within the reach of navigation. In his progress, however, he discovered New Caledonia, the largest island in the Southern Pacific, except New Zealand ; the island of Georgia, and an unknown coast, which he named Sandwich Land, the Thuleof the southern hemisphere ; and having twice visited the tropical seas, he settled the situations of the old> and made several new discoveries. >(,,; .|,. ; .;,jff ■.♦>« <)t;,4 {J-shRi^i/iUf iw;i» j\) fit m)i)t?l!;;:. - .'. ,iM!ii/'^ '-rf^Yr ^W^<^<^»'''»*{« "'i'^*'^ n/'r ■'-!?!•!!?>-) M' *' .viJ y iil> fmci THB - 1 ig^maiQa) ^ iitAa^ T(D7ii(&iB { or CAPT. JAMES COOK */ >'t nouSlD 'The woUld. .fV»Vc,(J 1% ! :-:ti:^::5 ^ m i * . ,l if i H t 1 i 1 ! Is ', m ; fl i ■ [ 1 !i To shew (he importance of the toyages of discoyery of Capt. Cook, and to furnish some idea of the magnitude of the undertaking, it may be proper to take a cttsory view of that untrodden ground, which former enterprising dis- coverers visited, and whereon the principal scenes of their operations were exhibited. A brief recapitulation of their expeditions, will evince how much the intrepid naval officers of our own country have extended our acquaintance with the contents of the globe, opened new channels to an. increase of knowledge, and afforded fresh materials, equally interesting, as they are uncommon, for the study of human nature in various situations. Columbus and Magellan, two illustrious foreigners, ren- dered their names immortal at an early period. The for- mer, by a perseverance, of which there was no precedent, providentially surmounted every obstacle that opposed his progress, and astonished Europe with the production of a new earth, since called America; while much about the same time, the latter, inspired by a like spirit of enterprise, and animated by a magnanimity that despised danger, opened BOUND THE WORLD. 320 apaisage to a new sea, to which he gave the name of Pacific. In the year 1520, on the 6th of November, Magellan entered the straits, that have ever' since been called by his name, and on the 37th of the same month, beheld the wished-for object of his pursuit, the Great Southern Ocean. For one hundred and thirteen days, he continued steering to the north-west, and having in that time crossed the line, he fell in with those islands, to which he gave the name of Ladrones; and proceeding from hence in search of the Moluccas, he found in his way many little islands, where he was hospitably received, and where a friendly correspon- dence was established. These islands were situated between the Ladrones, and what are now known by the name of the Philippines, in one of which, called Nathan, Magellan, with sixty men, encountering a whole army, was first wounded with a poisoned, arrow, and then pierced with a bearded lance. His little squadron, now reduced to two ships, and not mu than eighty men, departed hastily^; but one only, the Victory, returned by the Cape of Good Hope, and was the first ship that ever went round the world. Other adven- turers were not now wanting to follow the steps of this in- trepid navigator. In 1567, Alvarez de Mendamo, another Spaniard, was sent from Lima, on purpose for discovery. He sailed eight hundred leagues westward from the coast of Peru, and fell in with certain islands in the latitude of 11 deg. S. and Capt* Cook inclines to the opinion, that they are the cluster which comprises what has since been called New Britain, &c. Mendamo was also said to have discovered, ia 1575, the island of St. Christoval, and not far from hence, the Archipelago, called the Islands of Solomon, of which great and small he counted thirty-three. In 1577, Sir Francis Drake, who was the first En- glishman that passed the straights of Magellan, disco- vered the island of California, which h^ named New Albion. c. V* 14. U u m ■'•f I ti j'i f! aso 0O0K*S VOTAOES He also discovered other snuftU islands in his route to the 43rd deg. of N. lat. but as his sole view was to return with his booty, he paid no regard to objects of less concern. He arrived in England, by the Cape of Good Hope, in the year 1580. To him succeeded Sir Thomas Cavendish, who likewise passed the straits of Magellan in 1580, and returned nearly by the same route pointed out by his predecessor, touching at the Ladrones, and making some stay at the Philippine Isles, of which, on his return, he gave an enter- taining description. In 1595, the Spaniards, intent more on discovery than plunder, fitted out four ships, and gave the command to Alvaro Mendana de Neyra ; whose discoveries were the Marquesas, Solitary Island, and Santa Cruz : but most of those who embarked on this expedition either died miserably, or were shipwrecked. One of the fleet was afterwards found with all her sails set, and the people rotten. In 1598, Oliver Van Noort passed the straits. He made no discoveries : but in this year the Sebaldine Islands were discovered by Sebald de Wert, the same known now by the name of Falkland's Isles. In 1605, Pedro Fernando de Quiros jnceived the design of discovering a southern, continent. He is supposed, by Mr. Dalrymple and others, to have been the first into whose mind the existence of such a continent had ever entered. On the 31st of December, he sailed from Calloa with two ships and a tender. Luis Paz de Torres was entrusted with the command, and Quiros, from zeal for the success of the undertaking, was contented to act in the inferior station of pilot. Quiros, soon after his return, presented a memorial tu Philip II. of Spain, in which he enumerates twenty-three islands that he had discovered, among' which was the island of the Virgin Mary, and adjoinirg it three parts of the country called Australia del Espiritu Santo, in which land were found th^ bay of St. Philip and St Jago. ROUND THE WORM). 331 In 1614, George SpiCzbergen with a strong squadron of Dutch shins passed the straits of Magellan ; and in 1615, Schouten and Le Maire, in the Unitv of 360 tons, and the Hoorn of 110, sailed from the Texel, on the 14th of June* professedly for the discoYery of a new passage to.the South Sea. The Hoorn was burnt, in careening, at King*s Island, on the coast of Brazil, and the other left singly to pursue her ▼oyage. In lat. 54 deg. 56 min. they came in sight of an opening, to which, (having happily passed it) they gave the name of Strait le Maire. Having soon after this wea- thered the southernmost point of the American continent, they called that promontory Cape Horn, or more properly Hoorn, after the town in Holland where the project was first secretly concerted ; and two islands which they had passed, they named Bernevelt. They also discovered seve- ral others, and coasted the north side of New Britain. In 1643, Abel Tasman sailed from Batavia, in the Heemskirk, accompanied by the Zee Haan pink, with a design of discovering the Southern Continent. The first land he made was the eastern point of New Holland, since known by the name of Van Diemen's land. Proceeding in a high latitude to the eastward, he fell in with the westernmost coast of New Zealand, where most of the crew were murdered by the savages of a bay, which he called Murderer's Bay, called by our late navigators Queen Charlotte's Sound. In his pas- sage he fell in with the isles of Pylstaert, Amsterdam, Middleburg, and Rotterdam. Then directing his course to the N. W. he discovered eighteen or twenty small islands, in lat. 17 deg. 19 min^ S. long. 201 deg. 35 min. to which he gave the name of Prince William's Islands, and Heem- skirk's Banks. From thence Tasman pursued his course to New Guinea, without discovering [the supposed continent ; and returned to Batavia on the 15th of June, 1643. In 1681, Dampier passed the Magellanic Straits, and in 1600, he made a second voyage on discovery, which was chiefly confined to New Holland, New Guinea, New Britain, u u 2 11 lit ^■n :4 II ifi 'iji'i fill ' ij * i\, mm [Wi'm 1 333 C00K*8 yOYAOEfl and the islands adjacent. In 1703, he performed a third voyage, but without making any new discoveries. lie was accompanied in this voyage by Mr. Funnel, to whom the circumnavigation of tlie globe is ascribed. In 1721, the Dutch East-India Company, at the instance of Capt* Roggewein, fitted out a respectable fleet, for the 4iscovery of that continent, which lay hitherto unknown, though believed universally to exist. Three stout ships Mrere appointed, and were well provided Ifor this service ; the Eagle of 30 guns and 111 men, on board of which em- barked Roggewein as commodore, having under him Capt. Coster;- the Tienhoven of 28 guns, and 100 men, of which Capt. Bowman was commander ; and the African Galley, commanded by Capt. Roscnthall. From these ex- perienced navigators every thing was hoped. They found the straits of Magellan impracticable, and entered the Southern Ocean, after having endured a variety of difBcul- ties and hardships, by the strait Le Ma ire. Lloggewein pursued nearly the same track as Schouten had pointed out, till, veering more to the north, he fell in with the islands at which Commodore Byron first landed. Pursuing their course to the westward, they discovered a cluster of islands, undoubtedly the same now called the Friendly Isles, to which they gave the name of the Labyrinth, because it was with difficulty they coulu clear them. They continued their course towards New Britain, and New Guinea ; and thence by the way of the Moluccas to the East Indies. In 1738, Lazier Bouvet was sent by the French East- India Company, upon discovery in the Southern Atlantic Ocean. He sailed from Port TOrient on the 10th of July, oik'board the Eagle, accompanied by the Mary, and on the 1st of January following, it was thought he had discovered land in lat. 54 deg. S. long. 11 min. B. This having been diligently sought for by Capt. Cook, without effect, there is good reason to doubt if any such exists ; or, if it does, it is too remote from any known tract to be of use to trade or ROUND THE WORLD. 333 navigation. In 1749, Commodore Anson traversed the Great Pacific Ocean, but lie made no discoveries. . ; Tlie spirit of discovery recovered new strength, under tlie clierisbing influence and munificent encouragement of King George III. wtio liaving put a period to the destructive operations of war, turned liis attention to enterprises more adapted to the season of returning peace. His majesty formed the grand design of exploring the Southern Hemis- phere ; and in the prosecution of an object so well adapted to the views of a great commercial people, onevoyage fol- lowed another in close succession. In 1764, Captain, afterwards Admiral Byron, having under his command the Dolphin and Tumar, passed through the straits of Magellan, into the Pacific Ocean ; where he discovered several islands, and returned to England in May, 1766. In the month of August following, the Dol- phin was again sent out under the command of Capt. Wallis, with the Swallow sloop, commanded by Capt. Carteret* They proceeded together till they came to the west end of the straits of Magellan, and in sight of the Great South Sea» where they were separated. Capt. Wallis directed bis course more westerly than any navigator had done before in so high a latitude ; discovered not less than fourteen new islands ; and returned to England with the Dolphin, in May, 1768. His companion Capt. Carteret kept a different rout, made other discoveries, among which was the strait between New Britain and New Ireland. He returned with the Swallow to England, after having encountered innume- rable difficulties, in March, 1769. In the same year and month. Commodore Bougainville, having circumnavigated the globe, arrived in France. ..^,, 'Ctf In 17d0, the Spaniards sent out a ship to trace the disco- veries of the English and French commanders, which arrived at Otaheite in 1771. This ship touched at Easter Island, but whether she returned to New or Old Spain remains undecided. In the same year, 1760, the French also fitted '/i, \\ I \ IIP I 111 SS4 GOOK*S VOYAOfiS out another ship from the Mauritius, under the command of Capt. Kergulen, vvho, having discovered a few barren islands, contented himself with leaving some memorials that were found by Capt Cook. To this distinguished navigator was reserved the honour of being the first, who from a series of the most satisfactory observations, beginning at the west entrance of the strait of Magellan, and carried on with unwearied perseverance round Terra del Fuego, through the strait of Le Maire, has constructed a chart of the southern extremity of America, from which it will appear what ad- vantages will now be enjoyed by those who shall hereafter sail round Cape Horn. Capt, Cook sailed from Plymouth, in August, 1768, and returned home by the Cape of Good Hope, in July 1771. This experienced circumnavigator performeu his second Toyage in the Resolution and Adventure, which sailed from England in July, 1772, and returned on the 30th of the same month, in 1775. Tha general object of this and the preceding voyage round the world, was to search for un- known tracts of land, that might exist within the bosom of tiie immense expanse of ocean that occupies the southern hemisphere ; and, particularly to determine to a certainty, the existence or non-existence of a southern continent ; and these voyages have facilitated the access of ships into the Pacific Ocean, and also greatly enlarged the knowledge of its contents, These Navigators, besides perfecting many of the discoveries of their predecessors, have added to them a long catalogue of their own. The several lands, of which any account had been given by the Spaniards or Dutch, have been carefully looked for, and most of them found, visited, and accurately surveyed. The boasted Terra Australia del Espiritu Santo of Quiros, as being a part of a southern continent, could not withstand Capt. Cook*s examination, who sailed round it, and assigned to it its true position and moderate bounds, in the Archipelago of the New Hebrides. Bougainville did no more than discover, that the land here ROUND THB WORLD. 885 del em on, ind Vi was not connected ; but Capt. Cook found it to be composed of islands, and explored the whole group. Byron, Wallace, and Cai'teret, had each of them contributed towards increas- ing a linowledge of the amazing profusion of islands that exist in the Pacido Ocean, within tlie limits of the southern tropic : but how far Uiat ocean reached to the west, what lands bounded it on that side, and the connection of those lands with the disco verieB oi' fcriusr navigators, remained abso- lutely unknown, till Capt. Cook decided the question, and brought home such ample accounts of them and their inha- bitants, as have left little more to be done in that part of the globe. It was a favourite conjectural opinion among geo* graphers, that New Zealand was a part of a southern con- tinent; but Capt. Cook^s voyage in the Endeavour has proved it to be a mere supposition ; for he spent near six months upon its coasts, circumnavigated it completely, and ascertained its extent, and divisions into two islands. Whe- ther New Holland did or did nU join to New Guinea was another question, which Capt. Cook decided, by sailing be- tween them through Endeavour Strait. He, therefore, in this part of his voyage, has established a fact of essential service to navigation, by opening, if not a new, at least an unfrequented and forgotten communication between the Southern Pacific and Indian oceans. To Capt. Carteret be- longs a new discovery, in the strictest sense of the word. St. George*s Channel, through which his ship found a way, between New Britain and New Ireland, is a much better and shorter passage, whether eastward or westward, than round all the islands and lands to the northward. Thus far, there- fore, the late voyages of British navigators, to disclose new tracts, and to reform old defects in geography, appear to have been prosecuted with a satisfactory degree of success. But something was still wanting to complete the great plan of discovery. The utmost accessible extremities of the southern hemisphere had been repeatedly visited and surveyed: yet great variety of opinion prevailed concerning ■III 336 OO0R*Q VOYAGES 'K0 V' III '^ n \ i M \ the navigable boundaries of our own hemispliere ; particu- larly, as to its existence, or at least as to the practicability of a northern passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, either by sailing eastward round Asia, or westward round north America ; by which passage, could it be found, voyages to the East Indies in general would be much shortened, and consequently become more profitable, than by making the tedious circuit of the Cape of Good Hope. This favourite object of the English, as early as the fifteenth century, appeared so certain to the Cabots, that the younger Sebastian made the original attempt to discover a N.W. passage in 1407, which ended in the discovery of Newfound- land and the Labradore coast. He returned by the way of Newfoundland, bringing home two Esquimaux. In 1570, Sir Martin Forbisher undertook a second expedition, and found a strait on the southernmost point of Greenland, but after repeated trials, he relinquished his hope of seeing the object he held in contemplation, and had been pursuing. Sir Humphry Gilbert was mortified with the same disap- pointment. He coasted along the American continent from the 60th degree of northern latitude, till he fell in with the Gulph of St. Lawrence ; took possession, in his sovereign's iDiame, of that land, since called by the French, Canada ; and was the first who projected and promoted the establish- ment of the fishery in Newfoundland. Capt. John Davis made three trials for a passage N. W. each of which proved unfortunate and unsuccessful. In his progress he passed the strait that still bears his name, and advanced as high as the latitude of 60 deg. Mr. Henry Hudson in the year 1610, projected a new course towards the N.W. which brought hitu to the mouth of the bay that now bears his name. But the adventure ended by the mutiny of his crew, in the tragical death of the captain, and seven of his sick followers. The year following Sir Henry Button under- took the task, but with no better success than his predeces- sor. He was followed by James Hall and William Baffin* ROtrttf THE WORtD. 537 Hflill in Ihif fruitless expedtlion fell by the hm^ of a satage ; and BafliB, who renewed the purBoit in 1615, examinfed a sea that coinmunicates with l>aTis*s strait, which he found to he no other than a great hay, and called it after his own name : an inlet to the north, in lat. 78 deg. he called Smith*s Sound. In 1631) Luke Fox made a voyage in search of the same supposed passage, but to as little purpose as the rest. He was followed by Capt. James, who, after the most ela- borate searoh, changed his opinion, and declared that no such passage existed. Thus our countrymen and the Dutch have been equally unsuccessful in various attempts to find this passage in an eastern dhrection. Wood^s failure in 1676 seems to have closed the list of unfortunate northern expe- ditions In that century ; and the discovery, if not absolutely despaired of, by having: been missed so often, ceased, for near another century, to be sought after : but Mr. Dobbs once more recalled the attention of this country to the pro- bability of a N.W. passag'^ through Hudsou^s Bay ; in con- sequence of which Capt Middleton was sent out by the British government in 1741, and Captains Smith and Moore, by a private society, in 1746, each encouraged by dn act of parliament passed in the preceding year, that an- nexed a reward of twenty thousand pounds to the discovery of a passage: however, they all returned from Hudson's Bay with reports of their proceedings, that left the attain- ment of the great object in view, at as great a distance as ever. But it was not yet certain, that such a passage might not be found on the western side of America ; and researches of this kind were no longer left to the solicitation, or to the subscriptbns of private adventurers ; they engaged royal at- tention, and were warmly promoted by the minister at the head of the naval department : and hence it was, that while Capt. Cook was prosecuting his voyage towards the south pole, in 1773, LordMulgrave sailed with two ships, to determine how far navigation was practicable towards the north pole. And c. V. 15. X x j.il' 1 ':!;i I ti ;'i..' :i 338 cook's votaobs ! I •1 i»Vu that nothing might be left unattempted, though muoh hod been already done, Capt. Cook, iivhose professional know- ledge could only be equalled by the persevering diligence with which he had employed it in the course of his former researches, was called upon once more to resume, or rather to complete his survey of the globe. This brave and expe- rienced commander might have spent the remainder of his days in the command to Which he had been appointed in Greenwich Hospital; but he cheerfully relinquished this honourable station, and, in 1776, undertook for the service of his country another voyage, which, in one respect, was less fortunate than any former expedition; being performed at the ex pence of the precious and most valuable life of its con- ductor. Former circumnavigators had returned to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope ; the arduous task was now assigned to Capt. Cook of attempting it by reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia and America. He was ordered to proceed to Otaheite or the Society Islands, and then having crossed the equator into the northern tropic, to hold such a course as might most prohably give success to the attempt of finding out a northern passage : but that the reader may be enabled to judge with precision of the great out-lines of the present important voyage ; of the various objects it had in view, and how far they have been carried into execution, it may be proper to insert a copy of the instructions to Capt. Cook, from the commissioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great Britain, Ireland, &c. and which in substance were as follow. " Whereas the Karl of Sandwich has sinrnified to us his inajesty^s pleasure, that an attempt should be made to find out a northern passage by sea, from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean ; and whereas we have, in pursuance thereof, caused his majesty's sloops Resolution and Discovery to be fitted, in all respects, proper to proceed upon a voyage, for the purpose above mentioned, and from the experience we have had of your abilities and good conduct in your late j:: ROUND THE WOULD. 830 ToyageSy have thought fit to intrust you with the conduct of the present intended voyage, and vrith that view ap- pointed you to cominand the first mentioned sloop, and di- rected Capt. Gierke who commands the other, to follow your orders for his further proceedings; you are hereby required and directed to proceed with the said two sloops directly for the Cape of Good Hope, unless you shall judge it necessary to stop at Madeira, the Cape de Verd, or Ca- nary islands, to take in wine for the use of tlieir companies; in which case you are at liberty so to do, taking care to remain there no longer than may be necessary for that pur- pose ; and on your arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, you are to refresh the sloops companies with as . much provision and water as can be conveniently stowed. -i " If possible, you are to leave the Cape of Good Hope by the end of October, or beginning of November next, and proceed to the southward in search of some islands said to have been lately seen by the French, in the latitude 48 deg. south, and under, or near the meridian of Mauritius. In case you find those islands, you are to examine them thoroughly for a good harbour ; and upon discovering one, make the necessary observations to facilitate the finding it again; as a good port, in that situation, may hereafter prove very useful, although it should afibrd nothing more than shelter, wood and water. You are not, however, to spend too much time in looking out for those islands, or in the examination of them, if found, but to proceed to Ota- heite, or the Society Isles (touching at New Zealand in your way thither, if you should judge it necessary and conveni- ent) and taking care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the sloops companies the refreshment they may stand in need of, before you prosecute the farther object of these instructions. Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Isles, you are to land Omai at such of them as he may choose, and to leave him there. X X 2 . r, -3 Jp am.>- V'l h 1 ft • ; ^ 'k il ill t I $40 cook's Vean prince or state upon any port of the coast you may think proper to visit, you are not to disturb them, or give them any just cause ot offence, but on the contrary, to treat them with civility and friendship. ** Upon y«ur arrival on tlie coast of New Albion, you arc to put into the tirst convenient port to rccriut your wood and water, and procure refreshments, and then to proceed northward along the coast, as far as the latitude of 65 deg. or farther, if yoa are not obstructed by lands or ice ; taking care not to lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, until you get in the befor«-men'< tioned latitude of 65 deg. where we could wish you to arrive i ROVVD' THE WOULD. dil^ ia ibe month of June next Wken you ^et tbat length, yoa are very carefully to search for, ao Peter and SL Paul in Kamtsohatka, or wherever else you shall judge more proper, in order to refresh your people and pass the winter ; and in the spring of the easuing year, 1778, to proceed from thenee to the northward, as fiir ai m your prudence, you may tiiink proper, in further searck 3> « '* I.I ( Mi I |li3> f I'll: .■5J 5i fi! 342 COOK^S VOYAGES of a north-east, or north-west passage, from the Pacific Ocean, into the Atlantic, or north sea : and if, from your own observation, or any information you may receive, there shall appear to be a probability of such a passage, you are to proceed as above directed ; and having discovered such a passage, or failed in the attempt, make the best of your way back to England, by such route as you may think best for the improvement of geography and navigation ; repairing to Spithead with both sloops, where they are to remain till further orders. ** And at whatever places you may touch in the course of your voyage, where accurate observations of the nature here- after mentioned have not been made, you are, as for as your time will allow, very carefully to observe the situation of such places, both in latitude and longitude ; the variation of the needle; bearings of head-lands; height, direction, and course of the tides and currents ; depths and soundings of the sea ; shoals, rocks, &c. and also to survey, make charts, and take views of such bays, harbours, and different parts of the coast, and to make such notations thereon, as may be useful either to navigation or commerce* You are also carefully to observe the nature of the soil and the pro- duce thereof; the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it ; the fishes that are found in the rivers or upon the coasts, and in what plenty ; and in case there are any peculiar to such places, to describe them minutely, and to make as accurate drawings of them as you can : and, if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable stones, or any extraneous fos- sils, you are to bring home specimens of each ; as also of the seeds of such trees, shrubs, plants, fruits and grains, peculiar to those places, as you may be able to collect, and to transmit them to our secretary, that proper experiments and examination may be made of them. You are likewise to examine the genius, temper, disposition, and number of the natives and inhabitants, where you find any ; and to endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendship * nil ROUND THG WORLD. 343 -with them, making them presents of such trinkets as you may have on board, and they may like best ; inviting them to traffic, and shewing them every kind of civility and regard ; but taking care, nevertheless, not to suffer your- self to be surprised by them, but to be always on your guard against any accidents. << You are also, with the consent of the natives, to take possession, in the name of the king of Great Britain, of con- venient situations in such countries as you may discover, that have not already been discovered or visited by any other European power ; and to distribute among the inhabitants such things as will remain as traces and testimonies of your having been there ; but if you find the countries so dis- covered are uninhabited, you are to take possession of them for his majesty, by setting up'proper marks and inscriptions, as first discoverers and possessors. " But forasmuch as, in undertakings of this nature, se- veral emergencies may arise not to be foreseen, and there- fore not particularly to be provided for by instructions be- fore-hand ; you are , in such cases, to proceed as you shall judge most advantageous to the service on which you are employed : and you are, by all opportunities, to send to our secretary, for our information, accounts of your pro- ceedings, and copies of the surveys and drawings you shall have made ; and upon your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole course of your voyage ; taking care before ;you leave the sloop, to demand from the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journals the)f may have kept, and to seal them up for our inspection ; and enjoining them and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been, until they have permission so to do : and you are to direct Capt. Gierke to do the same, with respect to the officers, petty officers, and crew of the Discovery. ^' Should any accident happen to the Resolution, in the 844 CCMMI^S TOYA«BS i lU n f 1 \\k 1 pi i,4 ;, ■ 1 iiii coiineofilievoyflige, lo m to disabld her from prociddllnf any farlher^ you are. Hi such cftse, to rcmore yourself an on February the 14th^ 1770, the Resolution iknd Discovery, having been completely equipped in the dock ikt Deptfordi were put iato oommission. Gapt* Cook hoisted his pendant on board the former sloop ; and the oommaad of the Discovery^ of three hundred tons burthen, whidh had heen purchased into the service^ was given to Capt. Clerite, who had been Capt. Cook*s second lieutenant on board the Resolution, in his second voyage round the world. Both ships were will fitted out, and supplied abundantly with every article necessary for a long voyage; and on the 8th of June, while they lay in Long^reach, they had the satisfaction of a visit from the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the board of admiralty, to examine whether every thing had been completed pursuant to their orders, and to the convenience of tliose who were to embark. They ho^ iioured Capt. Cook with their company to dinner on that day; and were saluted on their coming on board, and on their going on shore, with seventeen guns and three cheers. To convey some permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Ota- Iwite, aad of the other islands which they might happen to ROUND THE WORll. 345 visit, his mftjeety ordered a supply of some useful animals, with liay and corn for their support. They were also fur- nished with a sufficient quantity of valuable European gar- den seeds, which might add fresh supplies of food to the vegetable productions of the newly discovered islands. They had also an extensive assortment of iron tools and trinkets, to facilitate a friendly commerce and intercourse with the inhabitants of such new countries as might be dis- covered. A variety of other articles, which might be con- ducive to health, comfort or convenience, wero also added. Those at the head of the naval department were equally solicitous to render the voyage of public utility : to this end, a variety of astronomical and nautical instruments were, by the board of longitude, intrusted to Capt. Cook and Mr. King, his second lieutenant ; they having engaged to supply the place of a professed observator. The board, likewise, put into their possession the time-keeper which Capt. Cook carried out in his last voyage and had performed so well. It was made by Mr. Kendal, and was a copy of Mr. Harrison's. Another time-piece, and the same assortment of astronomi- cal and other instruments, were put on board the Discovery, for the uise of Mr. William Bailey, who was engaged as an observator on board that sloop. Though several young men, among the sea-officers, were capable of being em- pldyed in constructing charts, drawing plans, and taking views of the coast, and head-lands, nevertheless, Mf. Webster was engaged to embark with Capt. Cook, for the purpose of supplying the defects of written accounts ; by taking accurate and masterly drawings of the most memora- ble scenes and transactions. Mr. Anderson, likewise, sur- geon to Capt. Cook, added to his professional abilities a great proficiency in natural history, lie had already visited the South Sea Islands in the same ship, and enabled the captain to enrich his relation of his voyage with useful and valuable remarks. The vocabularies of the Friendly and Sandwich islands, and of the natives of Nootka, had been c. V. 15. Y Y 346 cook's voyages furnished to the oominander, by this bis most useful associ- ate : and a fourth, in which the language of the Esquimaux was compared with that of the American's on the opposite side of the continent, had been prepared by the captain him- self. The confessed abilities, and great assiduity of Mr. Anderson, in observing every tiling that related either to natural history, or to manners and language, and the desire that Capt. Cook, on all occasions, shewed to have the assist- ance of that gentleman, stamped a great value on his col- lections. The Resolution had the same appointment of officers and men which she had in her former voyage ; and the esta- blishment of the Discovery varied from that of the Adven- ture, in the single instance of her having no marine officer on board. This arrangement was finally completed at Ply* mouth, and on the 9th of July ''ey received the party of marines allotted for the voyage. Omai, a native of the So- ciety Isles, who had been brought to Bngland by Capt. Furneaux on the preceding voyage, and who had been in- troduced into the higher ranks of society in London by tbo Earl of Sandwich, who was at that time first lord of the admiralty, and at whose house he resided, left his friends in London with a mixture of regret and a«tisfaction. When he reflected on the kindnesses he had received, he could not refrain from tears : but the pleasing idea of revisiting Ma original connections, soon made his eyes sparkle with joy. As the original voyage, from which our historical aoooQVit is abstracted, is written in the words of Capt. Cook, till lite lamented death, and afterwards in those of Capt. King, who published the whole, we have, for many strong reasons, preferred giving the narrative in tlie same person, with occasional remarks ; and we trust our readers will see th* propriety and advantage of our determination in this respect. Contrary vrinds, and other circumstances of little conse- quence, prevented the ships from clearing the channel tiH the 14th of July, 1776. On board both vessels were one hundred and ninety-two persons, officers included. Notliing IK': /I!! ROVRD THE WORLD. 347 material happened till the Ist of August when we arrived off Teneriffe, one of theCanariet), where several of the gen- tlemen landed. It is said, that none of the aboriginal inhabitants remain here as a distinct people ; but that tlic produce of their intermarriages with the Spaniards may still be traced in a strong and muscular race, dispersed over the islands. On the 4th, we weighed anchor and proceeded on our voyage. At nine o*clock in the evening of the 10th, we saw the island of Bonavista, bearing south, distant little mbre than a league ; though, at this time, we thought ourselves much farther off; but this proved a mistake. For, after hauling to the eastward till twelve o*clock, to dear the sunken rocks that lie about a league from the south-east pdint of the island, we fonnd ourselves, at that time, close upon them, and did but just weather the breakers. Our situation, for a few moments, was very alarming. I did not choose to sound, as that might have heightened the danger, instead of lessening it. We had, for some days preceding the 6th of October, seen albatroswas, pintadoes, antl other peterels; and now we saw three penguins, which occa- sioned oi to sound ; but we fotmd no ground with a line of 150 fathoms On the 8tb, in the «V€iiing^ one of those birds, which sail- ers call noddies, settled on our rigging, and was caught. It was something larger than aa English blaekbird, «nd nearly as black, except the upper part of the head. Which was white, looking as if it were powdered ; the whitest fa- thers growing out from the base of the upper bill, from which they gradually assumed a dasrker colour, to about the middle of the upper part of the neck, where the white shade was lost in the Mack, withont being divided by any line. It vras vreb-footed, had black legs, and a long black bill. It is said, these.birda never fly far from land. We knew of none nearer the station we were in, than Gough's or Richmond's Island, from which our distance could not be less than 100 Yy2 II I ^i; i ?i 348 cook's voyagus leagues. But it must be obaenred, tliiit the At!antio Oceftni to the southward of tins latitude, has been but little fre- quented; so that there ujay be more islands tht;rethan we are acquainted with. i uMmutit ' : On the 18th of October, we arrived at the Cape of Good Uope, and found in the bay two French East India ships ; the one outward and the other homeward bound. And two or three days before our arrival, another homeward bound ship, of the same nation, had parted from her cable, and been driven on shore at the head of the bay, where she was lost. The crew were saved : but the greatest part of the cargo shared the same fate with the ship, or was plundered and stolen by the inhabitants. This is the account the French officers gave me ; and the Dutch themselves could not deny the facts ; but, by way of excusing themselves from being guilty of a crime disgraceful to every civilized state, they endeavoured to lay the whole blame on the French captain, for not applying in tune for a guard. As soon as we had saluted, I went on shore, accompanied by some of my offi- cers, and waited on the governor, the lieutenant governor, the fiscal, and the commander of the troops. These gen- tlemen received me with the greatest civility ; and the governor, in particular, promised me every assistance that the place alforded. At the same time, I obtained his leave to set up our observatory ; to pitch tents for the sailmakers and coopers ; and to bring the cattle on shore, to graze near our encampment. Before I returned on board, I ordered, soft bread, fresh meat, and greens, to be provided,^ very day, for the ship's company. Nothing remarkable happened till the evening of the 31st, when it began to blow excessively hard at south-east, and continued for three days ; during which time there was no communication between the ship and the shore. The Resor lution was the only ship in the bay that rode out the. gale without dragging her anchors. We felt its effiicts ,as sen- sibly on shore. The tents and observatory were torn to ROUND THE WORLD. 340 pieces ; and the astronomical quadrant nurrowly esnnpf^d irreparable damage. On the 3d of November the storm ceased. The Discovery having been detained some days at Ply- mouth, after the Resolution, did not arrive here (ill the 10th. Capt Gierke informed me thai he had Sk>iled from Plymouth on the 1st of August, and should have been with us a week sooner if the iate gale of wind had not blown him off the coast. Upon the whole he was seven days longer in his passage from England than wc had been. He had the misfortune to lose one of his marines, by falling overboard ; but there had been no other mortality among his people, and they now arrived well and healthy. While the ships were getting ready, some of our officera made an excursion into the neighbouring country. Mr. An- derson, my surgeon, who was one of the party, gave me the following relation of their proceedings : r. f* On the 16th, in the forenoon, I set out in a waggon, with five more, to take a view of some part of the country. We crossed the large plain that lies to the eastward of the town, which is entirely of white sand, like that commonly found on beaches, and produces only heath, and other small plants of various sorts. At five in the afternoon we passed a large farm house, with some corn fields, and pretty considerable vineyanib, situated beyond the plain, at the foot of some low hills, where the soil becomes worth cultivating. Between six and seven we arrived at Stellenbosh, the colony next to the Cape for its importance. The village does not consist of more than thirty houses, and stands at the foot of the range of lofty mountains, above twenty miles to thq eastward of Cape Town. The houses are neat ; and, with the ad- vantage of a rivulet which runs near, and the shelter of some large oaks, forms a rural prospect in this desert coiin- try. There are some vineyards and orchards, which, from, their thriving appearance, indicate an excellent soil ; though^ perhaps, tliey owe much to climate, as the air has an un- Hi", I 350 COOK^S VOYAGES I i ' 1' 1^' ^1 *l* comtnon serenity. I employed the next day in searching for plants and insects, but had little success. Few plants are in flower here at this season, and insects are scarce. I examined the soil in several places, and found it to consist of yellowish clay, mixed with a good deal of sand. We left Stellenbosh next morning, and arrived at the house we had passed on Saturday ; the owner, Mr. Cloeder, had sent us an invitation to visit him. This gentleman entertained us with great hospitality. He received us with music, and a band also played while we were at dinner; which, con- sidering the situation, might be reckoned elegant. He shewed us his wine cellars, orchards, and vineyards ; all which inspired me with a wish to know how these indus- trious people could create such plenty, where, I believe, no other European aation would have attempted tcTsettle. In the afternoon we crossed the country, and passed a few plan- tations, one of which seemed very considerable, und was laid out in a taste somewhat different from any other we saw. In the evening we arrived at a farm house, 'which is the first in the cultivated tract called the PearK We hid, at the same time, a view of Drakenstein, the third colony, which lies at the foot of the lofty hills already mentioned, and con- tains several farms or plantations, not very extensive. ** In the afternoon of the 19ln, we went to see a stone of a remrarkable size, called by the inhabitants the Tower of Ba- bylon, or the Pearl Diamond. It stands upon the top of some low hills ; and though the road to it is neither very steep nor rugged, we were above an hour and a half in walking to it. It is of an oblong shape, rounded on the top, and lies nearly south and north. The east and west sides are steep, and almost perpendifmlar. The south end is also steep, and its greatest height r^ there ; whence it de- clirieinen*8 Land, where, as soon is they had anchored in Adventure Bay, Captain Cook says, I ordered the boats ' ! ,* 1# ^^ i I , 'I „ i "i 352 cook's voyaoks to be hoisted out. In one of titem I went myself to look for the most commodious place for furnishing ourselves with the necessary supplies ; and Capt. Gierke went in his boat upoa the same service. Next morning early, I sent Xjieutenant King to the east side of the bay, with two parties, one to cut wood and the other grass, under the protection of the ma- rines. For although none of the natives had appcare I, there could be no doubt thq.t some were in our neighbour- hood : I also sent the launch for water ; and afterwards. visited all the parties myself. In the evening, we drew the seine at the head of the bay, and, at one haul, caught a great quantity of fish. Most of them were of that surt known to seamen by the name of elephant fish. In the af- ternoon, next day, we were agreeably surprised, at the place we were cutting wood, with a visit from some of the natives ; eight men and a boy. They approached us from the woods, without betraying any marks of fear, for none of them had any weapons except one, who held in his hand a stick about two feet long, and pointed at one end. They were of common stature, but rather slender. Their skin was black, and also their hair, which was as woolly as that of any native of Guinea ; but they were not distinguished by remarkably thick lips, nor flat noses. On the contrary, their features were far from being disagreeable. Most of them had their hair and beards smeared with a red ointment ; and some bad their faces also painted with the same compo« sition. They received every present we made to them with- out the least appearance of satisfaction. When some bread WIS given, as soon as they understood that it was to be eat- en, Ihey either returned it or thiew it away, without even tasting it. They also refused some elephant fish, both raw and dressed, which we offered to them. But upon gWmg them some birds, they did not return these, and easily made us comprehend that they were fond of such food. I had brought two pigs ashore, with a view to leave them in the woods. The instant these cam* within theii' reach, they ./'■•' ROUND THE WQRLD. 353 seized them as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were for carrying^ them off immediately, with no other in- tention, as we could perceive, but to kill them. < ]Bein^ desirous of knowing the us§ of the stick which one of our visitors carried in his hand, I made signs to them to shew me ; and so far succeeded, that one of them set up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the distance of about twenty yards. But we had little reason to commend his dexterity ; for, after repeated trials, he was still very wide from the object. Omai, to shew them how much su<> perior our weapons were to theirs, then fired his muHket at it ; which alarmed them so much, that notwithstanding all we could do or say, they ran instantly into the woods. Thus ended our first interview with the naUves. Imme- diately after their final retreat, I ordered the two pigs, being a boar and a sow, to be carried about a mile within the woods, at the head of the bay. I saw them left there, by the side of a fresh-water brook. A young bull and a cow, and some sheep and goats, were also, at first, intended to have been left by me, as an additional present to Van Die- men^s Land. But I soon kid aside all thoughts of this, from a persuasion that the natives, incapable of entering into my views of impioving thtir country, would destroiji them. The momiiiig of t'.ie 29th we he d a dead calm, which con- tinued all day, and effectually prevented our sailing. I therefore sent a party over to the east point of the bay to cut grass, and another io cut wood. I accompanied the lat- ter. We had observed several of the nativf^s, this morning, sauntering along the shore, which asEuied as, that though their consternation had made them leave us so abruptly the day before, they were convinced that vje intended them no mischief, and were desirous of renewing the intercourse. It was natural that I should wish to be present on the occa- sion. We had not bee*^ long landed, before aboat twenty of them, men and boys, joined us, without catpressipg the c. V. 15. Z r. 'I VV 'I 'I r y':.i ■( ',1 ■■'\ ■ , I .\ \ 'I ?! -I ■'I ; i?^^' k 354 COOK*S VOYAGBS least sign of fear and distrust. There was one of this coin«> pany conspicuously deformed ; and who was not more dis- tinguishable by the hump on his back, than by the drollery of his gestures, and the seeming humour of his speeches, which he was very fond of exibiting, as we supposed, for our entertainment. His language appeared to me, to be different from that spoken by the inhabitants of the more norlhern parts of this country, whom I met with in my first Yoyage; which is not extraordinary, since those we now saw, and those we then visited, differ in many other, re- spects. ' ' ^ •*'*f^.; Some of our present group wore, loose, round their necks, three or four folds of small cord, made of the fur of some animal ; and others of them had a narrow slip of the kangooroo skin tied round their ankles. I gave to each of them a string of beads and a medal, which I thought they received wi'h some satisfaction. They seemed to set no va- lue on iron, or on iron tools. They were even ignorant of the use of fish-hooks, if we might judge from their manner of looking at. some of ours, which we shewed to them, though it is certain they derive no inconsiderable part of their subsistence from the sea. We saw, however, no ves- 'i^el in which they could go on the water. Their habitations were little siteds or hovels built of sticks, and covered with bark. After staying about an hour with the wooding party and the natives, I went over to the grass-cutter4. Having seen the boats loaded, I returned on board to dinner ; where, some time after, Lieutenant King arrived. From him 1 learnt, that I had but just left the shore, when several women and children made their appearance. These femi»les wore a kangooroo skin tied over the shoulders, and round the waist. But its only use seemed to be, to support their children when carried on their backs ; for in all other r#- pects, they were as naked as the men, and as black, and their bodies tatooed in the same manner. But in this they differed from the gaen, that though their hair wa^ of the • I rJ' I m ■' I,:.; ROUND THE WORLD. 3^5 same colour, some of them had their heads completely shorn ; in others this operation had been performed only on one side, while the rest of them had all the upper part of the head shorn close, leaving a circle of hair all round, some- what like the tonsure of the Romish ecclesiastics. Many of the children had fine features, and were thous^ht pretty ; but of the persons of the women, especially those advanced in years, a less favourable report was made. Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, spent the few days we remained in Adventure Bay, in examining the country. His account of its natural productions, with which he favoured me, will more than compensate for my silence about them ; and some of his remarks on the inha- bitants, will supply what I may have omitted or represented imperfectly. The only animal of the quadruped kind we got, was a sort of opossum, about twice the size of a large rat. Itisof a dusky colour above, tinged with a brown or rusty cast, and whitish below. About a third of the tail towards its tip, is white, and bare underneath, by which it probably hangs on the branches of trees, as it climbs these, and lives on berries. The kangooroo, another animal found farther northward in New Holland, without doubt also in- habits here, as the natives we met with had some pieces of their skins ; Paid we several times saw an animal, though indistinctly, run from the thickets when we walked in the woods, which, from the size, could be no other. There ore several sorts of birds, but all so scarce and shy, that they are evidently harassed by the natives, who, per- haps, draw much of their subsistence from them. In the woods, the principal sorts are large brown hawks or eagics ; crows, nearly (hti Hume as ours in England ; yellowish parro- quets ; and largi? pigeons. There are also three or four small birds, one of which is of the thrush kind. On the shore weia Hijveral common and sea gulls ; a few black oystefr-oatchera, or sea-pies, and a pretty plover of a stone colour, with a black hood. About the lake, behind the z z 2 ift V- ' M' d56 cook's VOYAOtS. iM- : ■ !' bcacli, a few wild ducks were seen ; and some shags used to perch upon the high leafless trees, near the shore. The sea affords a much greater plenty, and at least as great a variety, as the land. Of these the elephant iish, or pejegallo, are the most numerous ; and though inferior to many other fish, were very palatable food. Next in number, and su- perior in goodness to the elephant fish, was a sort none of us recollected to have seen before. It partakes of the na- ture both of a round and of a flat fish, having the eyes placed very near each other ; the fore part of the body very much flattened or depressed, and the rest rounded. It is of a brownish sandy colour, with rusty spots on the upper pftrt, and below. From the quantity of slime it was always co- vered with, it seems to live after the manner of flat fish ti the bottom. Upon the rocks are plenty of muscles, dilid some other small shell-fish. There are also great numbers of sea-stars ; some small limpets ; and large quantities of sponge ; one sort of which, that is thrown on shore by the sea, but not very common, has a most delicate texture. In- sects, though not numerous, are herv"; in considerable variety. Among them are grasshoppers, butterflies, and several sorts of small moths, finely variegated* There are ttfo sorts of dragon -flies, gad-flies, camel-flies, several sorts of spiders, and some scorpions ; but the last are rather rare. The most troublesome, though not very numerous tribe of insects, are the mosquitoes ; and a large black ant, the pain of whose bite is almost intolerable, during the short time it lasts. The inhabitants whom we met with here, had little of that fierce and wild appearance common to people in thieir situation ; but, on the contrary, seemed mild and cheerfhl, without reserve or jealousy of strangers. With repect to their personal activity or genius, they do not seem to possess the first in any remarkable degree ; and as for the last, they have, to appearance, less than even the half- animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, who have net !:• i ROUKt> THE WORLD. 357 invention sufficient to make clothing for defi^nding them- selves from the rigour of their climate, though furnished with the materials. Their colour is a dull black, and not quite so deep as tliat of the African negroes. Their h^r, however, is perfectly woolly, and it is clotted or divided into small parcels, like that of the Hottentots, with the use of some sort of grease, mixed with a red paint or ochre, which thoy smear in great abundance over their heads. Their noses, though not flat, are broad and full, their eyes are of a middling size, with the white less clear than in us ; and though not remarkably quick or piercing, such as give a frank dieerful cast to the whole countenance. Their mouths are rather wide ; but this appearance seems heigh- tened by wearing their beards long, and clotted with paint, in the same manner as the hair on their heads. At eight o*clock in the morning of the 30th of January, a light breeze springing up at west, we weighed anchor, and put to sea from Adventure Bay. We pursued o«r course to the eastward, without meeting with any thing worthy of note, till the nigttt between the 6th and 7th of February, when a marine belonging to the Discovery fell overboard and WM never seen afterwards. On the Idth of February, at four in the afternoon, we discovered the land of New Zealand ; and sooti after came to an mtihor in Queen Charlotte Seundi Here several canoes, filled with iiatiives, came along-'Side of the ships ; but very few of the«i would venture on htMd j which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was well known by them all. There was one man in particular among them whom I had treated with remarkable kindness, duriti^ the whole of my stay when I was last here. Yet now, neither professions of friendship, nt>r presents, could prevail upon him to come into the ship. This shyness was to be ac- counted for only on this supposition, that they were apw prehensive we had i'evisited th^ir country in ordter to rfevenge the death 'of GaJ»t. Furneaux's people. • '' ' On the 13th, we set up two tents, on^ from each ship, on ■ i i 358 cook's VOYAOES j{ t ' '1 : i * ! PI the same spot where we bad pitched them formerly. The observatories were at the same time erected ; and Messrs. King and Bayley began their operations immediately. During the course of this day a great number of families came from different parts of the coast, and took up their residence close to us ; so that there was not a spot in the cove where a hut could be put up, that was not occupied by them, except the place where we had fixed our little encampment. It is curious to observe witii what facility they build their little huts. I have seen above twenty of them erected on a spot of ground, that, not an hour before, was covered with shrubs and plants. They generally bring some part of the materials with them, the rest they find upon the premises. I was present when a number of peo- ple landed, and built one of these villages. . Besides the natives who took up their abode close to us, we were occasionally visited by others of them, whose resi- dence was not far off; and by some who lived more remote. Their articles of commerce were, curiosities, fish, and women. The two first always came to a good market ; which the latter did not. The seamen had taken a kind of dislike to these people; and were either unwilling, or afraid, to associate with them ; which produced this good effect, that I knew no instance of a man*8 quitting his station to go to their habitations. Amongst our occasional visitors, was a chief named Kahoora, who, as I was informed, headed the party that cut off Capt. Furneaux*s people, and himself killed Mr. Rowe, the ofiicer who commanded. To judge of the character of Kahoora, by what I had heard from many of his countrymen, he seemed to be more feared than beloved among them. Not satisfied with telling me that he was a very bad man, some them even importuned me to kill him ; and, I believe, th j were not a little surprised that I did not listen to them ; for according to their ideas of equity, this ought to have been done. If I had followed the advice of all our pretended friends, I might have extirpated the ROUND THE WOlRX.t>. 359 ■'4 I wholeraoe; for the people of each hamlet or tillage, by turns, applied to me to destroy the other. 'On the 16th, at day break, I set out with a party of men, in five boats, to euUect food for our cattle. Capt. Gierke, and severe) of the officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied me. We proceeded about three leagues up the sound, and then landed on the east side, at a place where I had formerly been. Here we cut as much grass as loaded the two launches. As we returned down the sound, we visited Griiss Cove, the memorable scene of the massacre of Capt. Furncaux's people. Whilst we were at this place, our curiosity prompted us to enquire into the circumstances attending the melancholy fate of our countrymen; and Omai was made use of as our interpreter for this purpose. The natives present answered all the questions that were put to them on the subject without reserve, and like men who are under no dread, of punishment for a crime of which they are not guilty ; for we already knew that none of them had been concerned in the unhappy transaction. They told us, that while our people were sitting at dinner, surrounded by seve- ral of the natives, some of the latter stole, or snatched from them, some bread and fish, for which they were beat. This being resented, a quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanders were shot dead, by the only two muskets that were fired ; for before our people had time to discharge a third, or to load again those that had been fired, the natives rushed in upon them, overpowered them with their numbers, and put them all io death. We stayed here till the evening, when, having loaded the rest of the boats with grass, celery, and scurvy- grass, we embarked to return to the ships ; where some of the boats did not arrive till one oVIock the next morning ; and it was fortunate that they got on board then, for it after- wards blew a perfect storm In the evening the gale ceased, . -and the wind having veered to the east, brought with it fair ' 'weather. By this time more than two thirds of the inhabitants of il • ': ^ I =! ft ■! 3,. , •■ 1 ji I i 364 cook's voyages 11 m them. They afterwards took hold of a rope. Still, however^ they would not venture on board. ■'] ^^■ Mourooa was lusty and well made, but not very tall. His features were agreeable, and bis disposition seemingly no less so ; for he made several droll gesticulations, which indicated both good-nature and a share of humour* His colour was nearly of the same cast with that common to the most southern Europeans. The other man was not so hand- some. Both of them had strong straight hair, of a jet colour, tied together on the crown of the head with a bit of cloth. They wore girdles of a substance made from the morus papyrifera, in the same manner as at the other is^ lands of this ocean. They had on a kind of sandals, made of a grassy substance interwoven ; and, ns we supposed, in- tended to defend their feet against the rough coral rock. Their beards were long, and the inside of their arms, from the shoulder to the elbow, and some other parts, were punc- tured or tatooed, after the manner of the inhabitants of al- most all the other islands in the South Sea. The lobe of their ears was slit to such a length, that one of them stuck there a knife and some beads, which he had received from us ; and the same person had two polished pearl shells, and a bunch of human hair, loosely twisted, hanging about his neck, which was the only ornament we observed The canoe they came in was not above ten feet long, and very narrow ; but both strong and neatly made. They pad- dled either end of it forward indifferently. We now stood off and on ; and as soon as the ships were in a proper station, I ordered two boats to sound the coast, and to endeavour to find a landing place. With this view, 1 went in one of them myself, taking with me such articles to give the natives, as I thought might serve to gain their good- will. 1 had no sooner put off from the ship, than the canoe, with the two men, which had not left us long before, paddled towards my boat ; and, having come along-side, Mourooa stepped into her, without being asked, and with- out a moment's hesitation. ROUND THE WORI.D. 365 Omoiy ivho was with me, was ordered to enquire of him where we could land ; and he directed us to two different places. But I saw, with regret, that the attempt could not be made at either place, unless at the risk oi having our boats filled with water, or even staved to pieces. Nor were we more fortunate in our search for anchorage ; for we could find no bottom till within a cable's length of the breakers. While we were thus employed in reconnoitering the shore, great numbers of the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed. Mourooa, who was now in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike appearance hindered us from land- ing, ordered them to retire back. As many of them com- plied, I judged he must be a person of some consequence among them. Indeed, if we understood him right, he was the king's brother. So great was the curiosity of several of them, that they took to the water, and swimming off to the boats, came on board them without reserve. Nay, we found it difficult to keep them out ; and stiU more difficult to prevent them carrying off every thing they could lay their hands upon. At length, when they perceived that we wer« returning to the ships, they all left us, except our original visitor Mourooa. He, though not without evident signs of fear, kept his place in my boat, and accompanied me on board the ship. The cattle, and other new objects, that presented them- selves to him there, did not strike him with much surprise. Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own safety, to allow him to attend to other things. I could get but little information from him ; and therefore, »fter he had made a short stay, I ordered a boat to carry him in toward the land. As soon as he got out of the cabin, he happened to stumble over one of the goats. His curiosity now over- coming bis fear, he stopped, looked at it, and asked Omai what bird this was ? and not receiving an immediate answer from him, he repeated the question to some of the people 366 cook's votaoes ■>\ ' ',: J mi upon deck. The boat having conveyed him pretty near ta the surf, he leaped into the sea, and swam ashore. He had no sooner landed, than a multitude of his countrymen ga- thered round him, as if with an eager ouciosity to learn from him what he had seen ; and in this situation they remained, when we lost sight of them. '- After leaving Mangeea, as this island was called, on the afternoon of the 30th, we continued our course northward all that night, and till noon on the 31st ; when we again saw land, in the direction of north-east by north, distant eight or ten leagues ; and next morning we got abreast of its north end. I sent three armed boats to look for anchoring- ground, and a landing-place. In the mean time, we plyed up under the island with the ship». Just as the boats were putting off, we observed several single canoes coming from the shore. They went first to the Discovery, she being the nearest ship. Not long after, three of the canoes came along-side the Resolution, each conducted by one man. They are long and narrow, and supported by outriggers. Some knives, beads, and other trifles, were conveyed to our visitors ; and they gave us a few cocoa-nuts, upon our ask- ing for them. But they did not part with them by way of exchange for what they had received from us, for they seem- ed to have no idea of bartering ; nor did they appear to esti- mate any of our presents at a high rate. With a little per- suasion, one of them came on board ; and the other two, en- couraged by his example, soon followed him. Their whole behaviour marked that they were quite at their ease. After their departure, another canoe arrived, conducted by a man who brought a bunch of plantains as a present to me ; asking for me by name, having learnt it from Omai, who was sent before us in a boat, with Mr. Gore. In return for this civility, I gave an axe and a piece of red cloth ; and he paddled back to the shore well satisfied. 1 afterward un- derstood from Omai, that this present was sent from the king, or principal chief of the island. Not long after a dou- R^UND THE WORLD. 3d-: ble canoe, in ^hich were twelve men, came towards us. As they drew near the ship, they recited some words in con- cert, by way of chorus, one of their number first standing up, and giving the word before each repetition. When they had finished their solemn chaunt, they came along-side, and asked for the chief : as soon as I shewed myself, a pig, and a few cocoa-nuts were conveyed up into the ship ; and the principal person in the canoe made me an additional present of a piece of matting. Our visitors were conducted into the cabin, and to other parts of the ship. Some objects seemed to strike them with a degree of surprise ; but no- thing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cows and horses ; nor did they form the least conception of their nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass the limits of their ideas ; for they gave us to understand that they knew them to be birds. I made a present to my new friend of what I thought would be most acceptable to him ; but on his going away he seemed rather disappointed than pleased. I afterwards understood that he %vas very desirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal this island could not boast. TThe people in these canoes were in general of a middling size, and not unlike those of Mangeea ; though several were of a blacker cast than any we saw there. Their features were various, and some of the young men rather handsome. Like those of Mangeea, they had girdles of glazed olotli, or fine matting, the ends of which being brought betwixt the thighs, covered the adjoining parts. Ornaments composed of a sort of broad grass, stained with red, and strung with berries of the night-shade, were worn round their necks. Their ears were bored, but not slit ; and they were punctured upon their legs, from the knee to the heel, which made them appear as though they wore a kind of boots. Their beha- viour was frank and cheerful, with a great deal of good na- ture* Soon after day-break, we saw some canoes coming off to the ships ; one of them directed its course to the Reso- ^^^ w "▼T" 308 COOK*S V0YA0B9 ■■ n h'' 5? s -», lution. In it was a hog, with some plantains and cocoa-nutSy for which the people who brought them demanded a dog, and refused every other thing that we offered in exchange. To gratify these people Omai parted with a favourite dog he had brought from England; and with this acquisition they departed highly satisfied. ;. . ^. . ,. i >; ,, j. . I dispatched Lieut. Gore with three boats, two from the Resolution, and one from the Discovery. Two of the na- tives, who had been onboard, accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his boat as an interpreter. The ships being a full league from the island when the boats put off, it was noon before we could work up to it. We then perceived a prodigious number of the natives abreast of the boats. In order to observe their motions, and to be ready to give such assistance as our people might want, I kept as near the shore as was prudent. Some of the islanders now and then came off to the ships in their canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts, which they exchanged for any thing that was offered to them. These occasional visits served to lessen my solicitude about the people who had landed. Though we could get no in- formation from our visitors, yet their venturing on board seemed to imply, at least, that their countrymen on shore had not made an improper use of the confidence put in them. At length, a little before sun-set, we had the satisfaction of seeing the boats put off. When they got on board, I found that Mr Gore himself, Omai, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Bur- ney, were the only persons who had landed. The trans- actions of the day were now fully reported to me by Mr. Anderson. I shall give them nearly in his words. ** We rowed towards a small sandy beach, on which a great num- ber of the natives had assembled. Several of the natives swam off, bringing cocoa-nuts ; and Omai, with their coun- trymen, whom we had with us in the boats, made them sensible of our wish to land. Mr. Burney, the first lieutenant of the Discovery, and I, went in one canoe, a little time be<* fore the other j and our conductors, watching attentively Ki' ROVND THE WORLD. 860 the motions of the surf, landed us stfely upon the reef. An islander took hold of each of us, obTiousIy with an intention of supporting us in walking over the rugged rocks to the beach, where several of the others met us, holding the green boughs of a species of mimosa in their hands, and saluting us by applying their noses to ours. We were conducted from the beach amidst a crowd of people, who flocked with very eager curiosity to look at us. We were then led up an avenue of cocoa-palms ; and soon came to a number of men, arranged in two rows, armed with clubs. After walking a little way amongst these, we found a person who seemed a chief, sitting on the ground cross legged, cooling himself with a sort of fan, made from a leaf of the cocoa-palm. In his ears were large bunches of beautiful red feathers ; but he had no other mark to distinguish him from the rest of the people, though they all obeyed him. We proceeded still amongst the men armed with clubs, and came to a second chief, who sat fanning himself, and ornamented as the first. In the same manner we were conducted to a third chief, who seemed older than the two former. He also was sitting, and adorned with red feathers ; and after saluting him as we had done the others, he desired us both to sit down. In a few minutes we saw about twenty young wo- men, ornamented as the chiefs, with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a slow and serious air, sung by them all. We got up and went forward, to see them ; and though we roust have been strange objects ta them, they continued their dance without paying the least attention to us. Their motions and their song were per- formed in exact concert. In general, they were rather stout than slender, with black hair flowing in ringlets down the neck, and of an olive complexion. Their eyes were of a deep black, and each countenance expressed a degree of complacency and modesty, peculiar to the sex in every part of the world ; but perhaps more conspicuous hercj where na- ture presented us with her productions in the fullest per- c. V. 16 SB 370 COOK*t VOYAGES )i ii *^ w ■ h.H ■A:-^ feciion, uiibiaised In sentiment by custom, or unrestrained in manner by art. The natives now seemed to take some pains to separate us from each other, every one bavins^ his circle to surround and gaze at him ; and when I told the chief with whom I sat, that I wanted to speak to Omai, he peremptorily refused my request. At the same time I found that the people began to steal several trifling things which I had in my pocket ; and when I took the liberty of com- plaining to the chief of this treatment, he justified it. From these circumstances, I now entertained apprehensions, that they might have formed the design of detaining us amongst them. *' Mr. Bnrney happening to come to the place where I was, I mentioned luy suspicions to him ; and, to put it to the test, whether they were well founded, we attenipted to get to the beach. But we were stopped, when about half way, by some men, who told us that we must go back to the place which we had left. On coming up, we found Omai entertaining the same apprehensions. But he had, as he fancied, an aditioual reason for being afraid ; for he had observed that they had dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating ; and he could assign no other reason for this, than that they meant to roast, and eat us, as is practised by the inhabitants of New Zealand. Ill tiiis manner we were detained the greatest part of the day, being sometimes together and sometimes separated, but always in a crowd ; who, not satisfied with gazing at us, frequently desired us to uncover parts of our skin, the sight of which commonly produced a general murmur of ad- miration. Upon our urging the business we came upon, tliey gave us to understand, that we must stay and eat with them ; and a pig which we saw, soon after, lying near the oven, which they had prepared and heated, removed Omai*s apprelieusions of being put into it himself, and made us think it might be intended for our repast. A piece of the young hog tliat had been dressed, was set before us, of ROVND THE WORLD. 371 vrliicli we were dcsireiltoeat. Our appetites ho weter had failoU, from the fatigue of the day ; and though we did eat a little to please them, it was without aatisfaction to ourselves. It being now near sun-set, we told them it was time to go on board. This they allowed ; and sent down to the beach the remainder of the victuals that had been dressed, to be carried with us to the ships. They put us on board our boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provisions, which they had brought ; and we rowed to the ships, very well pleased that we had at last got out of the hands of our troublesome masters. We regretted much, that our restrained situation gave us so little opportunity of making observations on the country. For, during the whole day, we were seldom a hundred yards from the place where we were introduced to the chiefs, on landing; and, consequently, were confined to the surrounding objects. The first thing that presented itself, worthy of our notice, was the number of people ; which must have been at least two thousand. In general, they had their hair tied on the crown of the head, long, black, and of a most luxuriant growth. Many of the young men were perfect models in shape, of a complexion as de- licate as that of the women, and, to appearance, of a disposition as amiable. The wife of one of the chiefs ap- peared with her child, laid in a piece of red cloth, which had been presented to her husband ; and seemed to carry it with great tenderness, suckling it much after the manner of our women. Another chief introduced his daughter, who was young and beautiful ; but appeared with all the timidity na- tural to the sex, though she gazed on us with a kind of anx- ious concern, that seemed to struggle with her fear, and to express her astonishment at so unusual a sight. ' "About a third part of the men were armed with clubs and spears. The clubs were generally about six feet long, made of hard black wood, lance-shaped at the end, but much broader, with the edge nicely scolloped, and the whole neatly polished. 3 B 2 ■ •' !■:.! h ■■•■ : ■ ■ I '• 1.1 • .! !■! 872 COOK^S VOTAOBt << What ibe foil of the island may be, farther inland, we could not tell ; but, toward the sea, it is nothing more than a bank of coral, ten or twelve feet high, steep and rugged ; except where there are small sandy beaches, at some clefts where the ascent is gradual. The reef or rock, that lines the shore entirely, runs to diflferent breadths into the sea, where it ends, all at once, and becomes like a high wall/* Though the landing of oar genUemen has proved the means of enriching my journal witli the foregoing particu* larsy the principal object I had in view was, in a great mea- surcy unattaiaed ; for the day was spent without getting any one thing from the island worth mentioning. The natives, however, were gratified with a sight they never before had, and probably will never have again. And mere curiosity seems to have been the motive for keeping the gentlemen under such restraint, and for using every art to prolong their continuance amongst them. . i.. Omai was Mr. Gore's interpreter ; but that was not the only service he performed this day : he was asked by the na- tives a great many questions concerning us ; and according to the account he gave me, his answers were not a little upon the marvdlous. As, for instance, he told them, that our country had ships as large as their island ; on board which were instruments of war, of such dimensions, that several people might sit within them ; and that one of these was suf- ficient to crush the whole island at one shot. This led them to enquire what sort of guns we actually had in our two ships. He said, that though they were but small, in comparison with those he had just described, yet, with such as they were, , we could, with the greatest ease, and at the distance the ships were from the shore^ destroy the island, and kill every soul in it. They persevered in their enquiries, to know by what means this could be done ; and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened luckily to have a few cartridges in his pocket. These he produced; the balls, and the gunpowder which was to set them in motion. ROUND TRB WORLD. 873 were submitted to inspection ; and to supply the defects of his description, an appeal was made to the senses of the spectators. In the centre of a circle formed by the natites, the inconsiderable quantity of gunpowder, collected from his cartridges, was properly disposed upon tlie ground, and, by means of a bit of burning wood from the oven where dinner was dressing, set on fire. The sudden blast, and loud re- port, the mingled flame and smoke that instantly succeeded, now filled the whole assembly with astonishment ; they no longer doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all Omai had said. This probably induced them to liberate the genilemen. Omai found direc 3f his countrymen here ; their story is an affecting one, as related by him. About twenty persons had embarked on board a oanoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbouring island, Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arising, they could neilher reach the latter, nor get back to the former. The intended passage being a very short one, their stock of provisions was very scanty, and soon ex- hausted. The hardships they suffered, while driven along by the storm, are not to be conceived. They passed many days without sustenance. Their numbers gradually dimin- ished, worn out by famine and fatigue. Four only sur- vived, when the canoe overset ; however they kept hanging by the side of the vessel, till Providence brought them in sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out canoes, and brought them ashore* Of the four, one was sinee dead. The other three still living, spoke highly of the treatment they here met with. And bo well satisfied were they with their situation, that they refused the offer made to them by our gentlemen, at Omai*s request, of giving tliem a passage on board our ships, to restore them to their native islands. This will serve to explain, bf3tAsrthan a thousand conjectures of speculators, howthe detached pa^in of the earth, and in particular how the islands of the South 374 COOK^S VOYAGES * I i i •■ -' .. !■'■ Seas, may have been first peopled ; especially those that lie remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other* With a gentle breeze at east, vre got up with Wateeoo on the 3d of April, and I immediately dispatched Mr< Gore, with two boats, to endeavour to procure some food for our cattle. As there seemed to be no inhabitants here to ob- struct our taking away whatever we might think proper, our boats no sooner reached the west side of the island, but they ventured in, and Mr. Gore and his party got safe on shore. The supply obtained here, consisted of about a hun- dred cocoa-nuts for each ship ; we also got for our cattle some grass, and a quantity of leaves and branches of young cocoa-trees, and of the wharra tree, as it is called at Ota- heite. Though Uiere were, at this time, no fixed inhabi- tants upon the island, indubitable marks remained of its being, at least, occasionally frequented. In particular, a few empty huts were found. In one of them, Mr. Gore left a hatchet and some nails, to the value of what we took away. As soon as the boats were hoisted in, I made sail again to the northward. Although Hervey^s Island, discovered in 1773, was not above fifteen leagues distant, yet we did not get sight of it till day-break in the morning. As we drew near it, we observed several oanoos put ofi^ towards the ships. There were from three to six men in each of them. They stopped at the distance of about a stone^s throw from the ship, and it was some time before Omai could prevail upon them to come along-side ; but no en- treaties could induce any of them to venture on board. In- deed, their disorderly and clamorous behaviour, by no means indicated a disposition to trust us, or treat us well. We afterwards learnt, that they had attempted to take some oars out of the Discovery^s boat that lay along, side, and struck a man who endeavoured to prevent them. They also cut away, with a shell, a net with meat, which hung over that ship^s stern, and absolutely refused to restore it ; e ' UU ROUND THE WORLD. 375 thoagh we afterwards purchased it of them. Those who were about our ship, behaved in the same daring manner. At the same time, they immediately shewed a knowledge of !>artering, and sold some fish they had for small nails, of which they were immoderately fond, and called them goore. But they caught, with the greatest avidity, bits of paper, or any thing else that was thrown to them. These people seemed to differ as much in person, as in disposition, from the natives of Wateeoo ; though the distance between the two islands is not great. Their colour was of a deeper cast; and several had a fierce, rugged aspect, resembling the na- tives of New Zealand. The shell of a pearl oyster, polished, hung about the neck, was the only personal decoration that we observed amongst them ; for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament, so generally prevalent amongst the natives of this ocean, of puncturing, or tatooing, their bodies. Though singular in this, we had the most unequivocal proofs of their being of the same common race. Their language approached still nearer to the dialect of Ota- heite than that of Wateeoo or Mangeea. Having but very little wind, it was one o*clock before we drew near the north-west part of the island ; when I sent Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to sound and re- connoitre the coast, whil« we stood off and on with the ships. At three o^clock, the boats returned ; and Mr. King iiiforinod me, *^ that there was no anchorage for the ships ; and that the boats could only land on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from the dry land. He said, that a number of the natives came down upon the reef, armed with long pikes and clubs ; but as he had no motive to land, he did not give them an oppor- tunity to use them. If I had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of water, and of grass, at any of the islands we had lately visited, it was my purpose to have stood back to the south, till 1 had met with a westerly wind. Put the certain consequence of doing this, without such a aid C00K*8 VOYAGES I; Ml n ' ■!! ;h •apply, would haTo been the loss of all the cattle, before we could possibly reach Otahcite, without gaining one ad- vantage with regard to the great object of our voyage. I therefore determined to bear away for the Friendly Islands, where I was sure of meeting with abundance of every tlung I wanted. April the 7th, I steered west by south, witli a fine breeze easterly. I proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa ; thinking, if the wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board for the cattle, to last till we should reach that island ; but, about noon next day, those faint breezes, that had attended and retarded us so long, again returned ; and I found it necessary to haul more to the north, to get into the latitude of Palmerston*s and Savage Islands discovered in 1774, during my last voyage ; that if necessity required it, we might have recourse to them. At length, at day-break, on the I3th, we saw Palmer- ston Island, distant about five leagues. However, we did not get up with it, till eight o'clock the next morning. I then sent four boats, with an ofiicer in each, to search the coast for the most convenient landing place. The boats first examined the south-easternmost part, and failing there ran down to the east, where we had the satisfaction to see them land. This place is not inhabited. A.bout one o^olock, one of the boats came on board, laden with scurvy-grass and young cocoa-nut trees ; which at this time, was a feast for the cattle. Before evening, I went ashore in a small boat, accompanied by Capt. Clerke. We found every body hard at work, and the landing place to be in a small creek. Upon the bushes that front the sea, or even farther in, we found a great number of men oi war birds, tropic birds, and two sorts of boobies, which, at this tim^ were laying their eggs, and so tame, that they suffered us to take them off with our hands. At one part of the reef, which looks into, or bounds, the lake that is within^ there was a large bed of coral, almost HODltD THH WaRLD. 377 «ven with the surface, wliioh affords, perhtps, oqe of the most euohantin^ prospects that Nature has aay where pro- duced. Its base was fixed to the shore, but reached so far in, that it could not be seen ; so that it seemed to be sus- pended in tlie water, which deepened so suddenly, that, at the distance of a few yards, there might be seven or eight fathoms. The sea was, at this time, quite unrui!ted ; and ihe sun shining bright, exposed the various sorts of coral, in the most beautiful order. This scene was enlivened by numerous species of fishes gliding along in apparent secu- rity. There were no traces of inhabitants having ever been Mere; if we except a small piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach, which might have drifted from some other island. After the boats were laden, I returned on board, Jeaving Mr. Gore, with a party, to pass the night on shore, in order to be ready to go to work early the next morn- ing. That day was accordingly spent, as the preceding one had been, in collecting food for the cattle. Having got a sufiicient supply by sun set, 1 ordered every body on board. But having little or no wind, i determined to wait, and to employ the next day in trying to get some cocoa- nuts from the next island, where wo could observe that those trees were in greater abundance ihan where we had already landed. With tbis view I went with the boats to the west side of the island, and landed with little difficulty ; and im- mediately set the people to gather cocoa-nuts, which we £Nind in great abundance. Omai, who was with me, caught with a scoop net, in a very short time, as much fish as served the whole party on shore for dinner, besides sending some to both ships. Here were also great abundance of birds, particularly men of war and tropic birds ; so that we fared sumptuously. And it is but doing justice to Omai to nay, that, in these excursions, he was of the greatest use. For he not only caught the fish, but dressed them, and the birds we killed, in an oven, with heated stones, after the &shion of his country, with a dexterity and good humour that c. V. 16. 3 C 378 (. r0OK*S VOYAGES M ' if '» il; f ff did liim great credit. We found this islet near a half larger than the other, and almost entirely covered with cocoa palms. A young turtle had been lately thrown ashore here, as it was still full of maggots. We found some scorpions, a few other insects, and a greater number ut fish upon the reefs. Upon the whole, we did not spend our time unprofi- tably at this last islet ; for we got there above twelve hun- dred cocoa-nuts, which were equally divided amongst the whole crew. The nine or ten low islets, comprehended under the name of Palmerston's Island, may be reckoned the heads or sum- mits of the reef of coral rock, that connects them together, covered only with a thin coat of sand, yet clothed, as already observed, with trees and plants. The heat, which had been great for a month, became now much more disagreeable, from the close rainy weather; and, from the moisture attend- ing it, threatened soon to be noxious. However, it is re- markable enough, that though the only refreshment we had received since leaving the Cape of Good Hope, was that at New Zealand, there was not a single person sick, from the constant use of salt food, or vicissitude of climate. In the night between the 34th and 25th we passed Savage Island, which I had discovered in 1774. L steered for the south, and then hauled up for Annamooka. It was no sooner day-light, than we were visited by six or seven canoes from different islands, bringing with them, besides fruits and roots, two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pi- geons, small rails, and large violet-coloured coots. A^* these they exchanged with us for beads, nails, hatchets, &c. They had also other articles of commerce ; but I ordered that no curiosities should be purchased till the ships should be supplied with provisions, and leave had been given for that purpose. Knowing, also, from experience, that if all our people might trade with the natives, according to their own caprice, perpetual quarrels would ensue, I ordered that particular persons should manage the traffic both on ■p ROUND THE WORLD. 379 board and on shore, prohibiting all others to interfere. Be- fore mid-day, Mr. King, who had been sent to Kamango, returned with seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots, and some grass for the cattle. His party was Tery civilly treated at Kamango. The inhabitants did not seem to be numerous ; and their huts, which stood close to each other, within a plantain walk, were but indifferent. Not far from them was a pretty large pond of fresh water, tolerably good ; but there was no appearance of any stream. The chief of the island, named . Tooboulangee, came on board with Mr. King, and another whose name was Taipa. They brought with them a hog, as a present to me, pro- mising more the next day ; and they kept their word. I now resumed the very same station which I had occu- pied when 1 visited Annamooka three years before; agd probably, almost in the same place where Tasman, the first discoverer of this and some of the neighbouring islands, anchored in 1643. The following day I went ashore, ac- companied by Capt. Gierke. Toobou, the chief of the is- land, conducted me and Omai to his house. We found it situated on a pleasant spot, in the centre of his plantations. While vm were on shore, we procured a few hogs and some fruit, by bartering ; and before we got on board again, the ships were crowded with the natives. Few of Aiem coming empty-handed, every necessary refreshment was now in greatest plenty. I landed again in the afternoon, with a party of marines ; and, at the same time, the horses, and such of the cattle as were in a weakly state, were sent on shore. Every thing being settled to my satisfaction, I re- turned to the ship at suu-set, leaving the command upon the island to Mr. King. Next day. May 3rd, our various opera- tions on shore began. In the evening, before the natives retired from our post, Taipa harangued them for some time. We could only guess at the subject ; and judged, that he was instructing them how to behave towards us, and en- couraging them to bring the produce of the island to market. 3 C 2 I* i:l /.I i Ji;j _-; m^i Ml? ri-i! ii^^vi 380 COOK S V0YAGC9 We experienced the good effeots of bis «io(}iiicn(te ill the plentiful supply of provisions whieh, next day, we received. On the 6tb, we Were visited by a great chief from Tonga- taboo, whose name was Feenoa, and whom Taipa introduced to Us as king of all the Friendly Islee. All the natives paid their obeisance to him, by bowing their heads as low as his fieet, the soles of which they also touched with each hand ; first with the palm, and then with the back part< Tberd could be little room to suspect that a person received with; so much respect could be any thing less than the king. In the afternoon, 1 went to pay this great man a visit, having first reeeived a present of two fish from him, brought OA board by one of his servants* As soon as I landed, he came up to mo. lie appeared to be about thirty years of age ; tall, but thin, and bad ikiore of the European features than any I bad yet seen here. After a short stay, our new visitor, and five or six of his attendants, accompanied me on bward* I gave suitable presents to them all, and entertained them in such a manner as I thought would be most agreeable. In the evening I attended them on shore in my boat, into wbidi the chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for the presents he had received from me. The first day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the na^ tives had stolen, out of the ship, a large junk axe. I now applied to Feenou, who was my guest on the 8th, to exert his authority to get it restored to me ; so implicitly was ke obeyed, that it was brought on board while we were at din-^ Her. These people gave us very firei|uent Opportunities of remarking what expert thieves they were. Ev^nsomeofthe chiefs did not refrain from K. On the lower okise a flogging seeined to make no greater impressioii than it would have done upon the mainmast. When any of them happened to be caught in the act, their superiors, far from interceding for them, would often advise Us to kill them. As this Was a punishment we did not choose to inflict, they generally escaped without any punishment. Oapt. Clerke, «t length, ROUND THE WORLD. asr bit upon a tnode of treatment which appeared to have some effect : be put them under the bands of the barber, and com- pletely shaved their heads ; thus pointing them oat as ob- jects of ridicule to their countryinen> and enabling our peo- ple to deprive them of future opportunities to repeat their rogueriesi by keeping them at a distance. Feenou, understanding that I meant to proceed directly toj^Tongataboo, importuned me strongly to alter this plan^ to which he expreilsed as much aversion as if he had some particular interest to promote by diverting me from it. In preference to it, he warmly recommended an island, or ra- ther a group of islands, called Hapaee, lyiag to the north- east. There, he assured us, we could be suppUed plenti* fully with every refreshment, in the easiest manner ; and, to add weight to his advice, he engaged to attend us thither in person. He carried his point with me, and Hapaee was made choice of for our next station : as it had never been \isited by any European ships, the examination of it became an object with me. After some unim^portant transactions, at day- break, in the morning of the 16tb, we steered north-east ii>r Hapaee, which was now in sight. Next day we came to anchcHT, and the ships were soon iilled with the natives* They brought hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they ex- changed for hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth, I went on shore, accompanied by Omai and Feenou, landing at the DMrth part of Lefooga, a li^«le to the right of theship*s sta- tion. The ohief conducted me to a but, situated close to the sea-beacb, which I had seen brought thither, but a few mi- nutes beforey for our receijtion. Feenou, Omai, and myself were seated in it ; the other ehiefe, and the multitude, eoM* posed a oircle en the ontside, and thdy also sat 4owb<. I was then asked how long I intended t6 stay ? Oil my replying five days, Taipa was ordered to oome and sit by me, and proclaiai this to the people. He then harangued them in A speech mostly dictated by Feenou ; the purport of it, as I learned from Omai, was, that they were all, both old and 382 COOK*S VOYAGES youn^, to look upon me as a friend, who intended to remain with them a few days ; that, during my stay, they must not steal any thing, or molest me any other way ; and that it was expected, they should bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the ships, where they would receive, in exchange for them, such and such articles, which he enumerated. Taipa then took occasion to signify to me, that it was necessary I should make a present to the chief of the island, whose name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this ; and gave him such articles as far exceeded his expectation. My libe- rality brought on me new demands, of the same kind, from two chiefs of other isles who were present, and from Taipa himself. After viewing the watering-place, we returned to our for- mer station, where I found a baked hog, and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be carried on board for my dinner. I invited Feenou and his friends, to partake of it ; and we embarked for the ship ; but none but himself sat down with us at table. After dinner I conducted them on shore ; and before I returned on board, the chief gave me a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams. Our supply of provisions was copious ; for, in the course of the day, we got, by barter, along- side the ship, about twenty small hogs, beside fruit and roots. Next morning early, Feenou and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted the chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the visit was to require my presence upon the island. I saw a large concous'se of people already assembled. I guessed that something more than ordinary was in agitation : but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me. I had not long landed, before a hundred of the natives appeared in sight, and advanped, laden with yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, and sugar canes. They deposited their burthens in two piles, or heaps, on our left. Soon after arrived a number of others, bearing the same kind of articles, which were collected into two heaps on the right. To these were tied two pigs and six fowls ; i ROUND THE WORLD. 388 and to those on the left, six pigs and two turtles. As soon as this munificent collection of provisions was laid down in order, and disposed to the best advantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after a number of men entered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs, made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. These paraded about for a few minutes and then retired ; the one half to one side, and the other half to the other side, seating themselves before the spectators. Soon after, they successively entered the lists, and entertained us with single combats. One cham- pion, rising up and stepping forward from one side, chal- lenged those of the other side, by expressive g-estures, more than by words, to send one of their body to oppose him. If the challenge was accepted, which was generally the case, the two combatants put themselves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which continued till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over, the victor squatted himself down facing the chief, then rose up, and retired. At the same time, some old men, who seemed to sit as judges, gave their plaudit in a few words ; and the multitude, especially those on the side to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he acquired in two or three huzzas. • ;,;.-: This entertainment was now and then suspended for a few minutes. During these intervals there were both wrestling and boxing matches. The first were performed in the same manner as at Otaheite ; and the second differed very little from the method practised in England. But what struck us most with Surprise wan, to see a couple of lusty wenches step forth, and begin boxing, without the least ceremony, and with as much art as the men. This contest, however, did not last above half a minute, before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the same applause from the spectators, which they bestowed on the successful 884 COOK*S VOTJIOES ■), ' la combatants of the other lex. We exprefte4 tome ^isfike at ibia part of the entertainmaat ; which, however, did not prevent two oiher famalee from entering the lists : they appeared to be girls of spirit, and would certainly have given ieach other a good drubbing, if two old women had not in- terposed to part them. All these combats were exhibited ill the midst of at least three thousand people, and were con- ducted with the greatest good humour on all sides. ' As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me, that the heaps of provisions on our right hand, were a pre- sent to Oroai ; and that those on our left hand, beiag about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. Ho added, that I might takie them on board whenever it was conveoieDt ; but thai there would be no occasion to set any of our people as guards over them, as I might be assureil that not a single eoeoa-nut would be taken away by the na- tives. So it proved ; for I left every thing behind, and returned to tlie ship to dinner, carrying the chief with me ; and when the proviaions were rensoved on board in the af- ternoon, not a nngle article was missing. There was as much as loaded four boats ; and I could not but be struck with the mun^kienoe of Feenou ; for this present far exceeded any I had ever received fnom any of the sovereigns of the va- rious islands I had visited in tl%e Pacific Ocean* I lost no time in convincing our friend that I was not insensible of his liberality ; for, before he quitted the ship, I bestowed upon him such commodities as I gueased were most valu- able in his estimation. Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through the military exercise. As I was desirous to gra- tify his curiosity, I ordered them all ashore, from both ships, in the morning. After they had performed various evolu- luttons, and fired several vollies, with which the numerous body of spectators seemed well pleased, the chief enter- tained us, in his turn, with an ei^hibition, which, as was 4heknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and ! i ROUND THE WORLD. 385 exactness far snrpagsing tile ipeoiinen we had giten of our military manoBuvres. It waa a kind of a dance, so entirely diflferent from any thing I had ever Been, that I can give no description that will convey any tolerable idea of it to my readers. It was performed by men, and one hundred and five persons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an instrument neatly made, shaped somewh&t like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length, with a small handle and a thin blade ; so that they were very light. • With these instruments, they made many and various flourishes, each of which was accompanied with a different movement. At first, the performers ranged themselves in three lines ; and by various evolutions, each man changed his station in such a manner, that those who had been in the rear came into the front. Nor did they remain long in the same position. At one time, they elttended themselves in one line ; they then formed into a semicircle ; and lastly into two square columns. While this last movement was executing, one of them advanced, and performed an antic dance before me, with which the whole ended. The musical instruments consisted of two drums, or rather two hollow logs of wood, from which some varied notes were produced, by beating on them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me that the dancers were much assisted by these sounds, but by a chorus of vocal music, in which all the performers joined at the same time. Their song was not destitute of pleasing melody ; and all their corresponding motions were executed with so much skill, that the numerous body of dancers seemed to act as if they were one great machine, it was tlie opinion of every one of us, that such a performance would have met with universal applause on an European theatre ; and it so far exceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they seemed to pique themselves upon the superiority they had over us. As to our musical . instruments, they held none of them in the least esteem ex- o. ▼. 17 8 D dSO <;OOK!s VuYAOBt Ih •' t*1 eept the drum ; and even that they did not think equal to their own. In order to give them a more favourable opinion of Eng- lish amuRements, and to leave their minds fully impressed with the deepest sense of our superior attainments, I direct- ed some fire- works to be got ready ; and, after it was dark, played them off in the presence of Feenou, the other chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Our water and sky* rockets, in particular, pleased and astonished them beyond all conception ; and the scale was now turned in our favour. This, however, seemed only to furnish them with an addi- tional motive to proceed to fresh exertions of their very sing- ular dexterity ; and our fire-works were no sooner ended than a succession nf dances began. As a prelude to them, a band of music, or chorus of eighteen men, seated them- selves before us, in the centre of the circle. Four or five of this band had pieces of large bamboo, from threeto five or six feet long ; the upper end open, but the other end closed by one of the joints. With this close end the performers kept con- stantly strikin*g the ground, though slowly, thus producing different notes, according to the different lengths of the instruments, but all of them of the hollow or base sort; to counteract which, a person kept striking quickly, and with two sticks, a piece of the same substance, split and laid along the ground, and by that means furnishing a tone as acute as those produced by the others were grave. The rest of the band, as well as those who performed upon the bamboo, sung a slow and soft air, which so tempered the harsher notes of the above instruments, that nobye-stander, however accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied modulation of ^weet sounds, could avoid confessing the vast power and pleasing effects of this simple harmony. Soon after they had finished, nine women exhibited them- selves, and sat down fronting the hut where the chief was. A man then rose, and struck the first of these women on the back, with both fists joined. He proceeded, in the ROUND THE WORLD. 387 same tnnnner, to the leoond and third ; hut vrhcn he came to the fourth, whether from accident or design 1 cannot tell, instead of the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this a pe.'son rose instantly from the crowd, who' brought him to the ground with a blow on the head ; and he was carried off without the least noise or disorder. But this did not save the other five women from so odd a ceremony ; for a person succeeded him, who treated them in the same man- ner. Their disgrace did not end here ; for when they danced they had the mortification to find their performance twice disapproved of, and were obliged to repeat it. Curiosity, on both sides, being now sufficiently gratified, by the exhibition of the various entertainments I have de- scribed, [ began to have time to look about me. Accordingly next day I took a walk into the island of Leefooga, of which I was desirous to obtain some knowledge. I found it'to be, in several respects, superior to Annamookar The planta- tions were more numerous, and .more extensive. We ob- served large spots covered with the paper mulberry-trees ; and the plantations, in general, were well stocked with such roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the^t^island. To these I made some addition, by sowing the seeds of In- dian corn, melons, pumpkins, and the like. The island is not above seven miles long; and in some places, not above two or three broad. The east side of it, which is exposed to the trade wind, has a reef, running to a considerable breadth from it, on which the sea breaks with great violence. When I returned from my excursions into the country, I found a large sailing canoe fast to the ship*s stern. In this canoe was Latooliboula, whom I had seen at Tongataboo, during my last voyage ; and who was then supposed by us to be the king of that island. He sat in the canoe with all that gravity by which he was so remarkably distinguished at that time ; nor could I, by any entreaties, prevail upon him now to come into the ship. Many of the islanders were present; and they all called him Arekee, which signifies 3 D 2 388 COOK*! TOYAGIS 11 ? :• LI . I i kin^. I had never heard any on^j of them give tbb title ta Feenou, however extensive bis authority over tliem, both here and at Annamooka, had appeared to be ; which had all along inclined me to suspect that be was not the king ; though his friend Taipa, bad taken pains to make me believe he was. Feenou was on board my ship at the same time ; but neither of these great men took the least notice of each other. In the morning of the 23rd, as we were going to unmoor, in order to leave the Island, Feenou, and his prime-minister Taipa, came along-side in a sailing oanoe, and informed me that they were setting out for Vavaoo, an island which, they said, lies about two days sail to the northward of Hapaee. The object of their voyage, they would have me believe, was to get for me an additional supply of hogs, and some red feathered caps for Omai, to carry to Otaheite, where they are in high esteem. Feenou assured me, that he should be back in four or five days ; and desired me not to sail till his return, when he promised he would accompany me to Tongataboo. I thought this a good opportunity to get some kjv»wledge of Vavaoo, and proposed to him to go thither with the ships ; but he seemed not to approve of the plan, and by way of diverting me from it, told me that there was neither harbour nor anchorage about it. 1 therefore consented to wait, in my present station, for bis return ; and he immediately set out. In my walk, on the 25tb, I happened to step into a house, where I found a woman shaving a obild^s head with a shark's tooth, stuck into the end of a piece of stick. I observed that she first wetted the hair with a rag dipped in water, applying her instrument to that part which she had previously soaked. The operation seemed to give no pain to the child ; although the hair was taken ofi^ as close as if one of our raiors bud been employed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon after tried one of those singular in- truments upon myself, and found it to be an excellent »UC' \S>-? ROUND THB WORLD. 889 cedaneum. However, the men of these islande have re- course to another contrivance when they shave their beards : the operation is performed with two shells ; one of which they place under a small part of the beard, and with the other, applied above, they scrape that part off. In this manner they are able to shave very close. The process is, indeed, rather tedious, but not painful ; and there are men amongst them who seem to profess this trade. It was as common, while we were here, to see our sailors go ashore to have their beards scraped off, after the fashion of Ilapaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be shaved by our barbers. Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the island was now brought to the ships, I resolved to change our station, and in the afternoon of the 26th of May, I hauled into a bay ths^ lies between the south end of Lefooga, and the north end of HooIaiva» and there an- chored. About noon, a large sailing canoe came under our stern, in which was a person namee Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both, who, as the natives then on board told us, was king of Tongataboo, and of all the neighbouring islands. It being my interest, as well as my inclination, to pay court to all the great men, without making inquiry into the validity of their assumed titles, I invited Poulaho on board ; he brought with him as a present, two fat hogs, though not so fat as himself. If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, be was certainly the most eminent man, in that respect, we had seen. I found him to be a sedate, sensible man. He viewed the dhip, and the several new objects, with uncommon attention, and asked many pertinent ques- tions; one of which was, what could induce us to visit these islands ? After he had satisfied his curiosity in looking at the cattle and other novelties which he met with upon deck, I desired him to walk down into the cabin. To this his at- tendants objected, saying that if he were to accept of that invitation, it must happen that people would walk over hi» 300 OOOK*S TOTAGES i*,.:* '■* '!■ head ; but the chief himself, less scrupulous in this respect than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down. Poulaho sat down with us to dinner ; but he ate little and drank less. When we arose from the table, he desired me to accompany him ashore. I attended him in my own boat, having first made presents to him of such articles as I could observe he valued much, and were even beyond his expec- tation to receive. I was not disappointed in my view of thus securing his friendship ; for the moment the boat reached the beach, he ordered two more hogs to be brought, and de- livered to my people. He was then carried out of the boat, by some of his own people, upon a board resembling a hand- barrow, and went and seated himself in a small house near the shore; which seemed to have been erected there for his accommodation. He placed me at his side ; and his attendants seated themselves in a semicircle before us, on the outside of the house. Behind the chief, or rather on one side, sat an old woman, with a sort of fan in her hand, whose office it was to prevent his being pestered with the flies. I staid till several of his attendants left him, first paying him obeisance, by bowing the hand down to the sole of his foot, and touching or tapping the same, with the upper and under side of the fingers of both hands. Others who were not in the circle, came as it seemed on purpose, and paid him this mark of respect, and then retired without speaking a word. I was charmed with the decorum that was observed : I had no where seen the like, not even amongst more civi- lized nations. -' , ., ' • Poulaho, the king, as I shall now call him, came on board betimes next morning ; and brought, as a present to me, one of their caps made, or at least covered, uith red feathers. These caps, or rather bonnets, are composed of Ac tail feathers of the tropic bird, with the red feathers of the parroquets wrought upon their:, or jointly with them. They are made so as to tie upon the forehead without any crawn, and have the form of a semicircle, whove radins is ROUND THE WORi.D. 301 on eighteen or twenty inches. At day break the next morning, I weighed with a fine breeze, and stood to the westward, with a view to return to Annamooka. We were followed by several sailing canoes, in one of which was the king. He quitted us in a short time, but left his brother, and five of his attendants on board. We had also the company of a chief, just then arrived from Tongataboo, whose name was Tooboueitoa. The moment he arrived, he sent his canoe away, and declared that he and five more who came with him, would sleep on board ; so that I had now my cabin filled with visitors. They brought plenty of provisions with them, for which they always had suitable returns. In our course the ship was very near running full upon a low, sandy isle, called Pootoo. It happened very fortu- nately that the people had just before been ordered upon deck, to put the ship about, so that the necessary movements were executed with judgment and alertness ; and this alone saved us from destruction. The Discovery being astern, was out of danger. Such hazardous situations are the una- voidable companions of the man who goes upon a voyage of discovery. This circumstance frightened our passengers so much, that they expressed a strong desire to get ashore. Accordingly, as soon as day-light returned, I hoisted out a boat, and ordered the ofiicer who commanded her, after landing them at Kotoo, to sound along the reef for anchor- age. Having met with a convenient station, we lay here until the 4th, when we weighed and stood for Annamooka, where we anchored next morning. I went on shore soon after, and found the inhabitants yery busy in digging up yams, to bring to market. These were now in the greatest perfection ; and we procured a good quantity, in exchange for pieces of iron. V About noon, next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told us that several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which had sailed with him from that island, had been lost, owing to the late blowing weather, and that every ii COOK*8 TOYAOBt ''4 ■J body on board them had perished. This melancholy tala did not seem to affect any of his coantrymen that heard it ; and, as to ourselves, we were by this time too well ac- quainted with his character to give much credit to such a story. The following morning, Poulaho and the other chiefs, who had been wind-bound with him, arrired. I happened at this time to be ashore, in company with Feenou, who now seemed to be sensible of the impropriety of his conduct, in assuming a character that did not belong to him ; for be not only acknowledged Poulaho to be king of Tongataboo and the other isles, but affected to insist much on it, which, no doubt, was with a view to make amends for his former presumption. I left him to visit this greater man, whom I found sitting with a few people before him : but, as every one hastened to pay court to him, the circle increased pretty fast. I was very desirous of observing Feenou*8 behaviour on this occasion, and had the most convincing proof of his infe«iority ; for he placed himself amongst the rest that sat before Poulaho, as attendants on his majesty. Both he and Poulaho went on board with me to dinner; butonlythelatter sat at table. Feenou, having made his obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign*! foot with his bead and bands, retired out of the cabin. The king had before told us that this would happen ; and it now appeared that Feenou could Bot eat or drink in his royal presence. At eight o'clock next morning, wo steered for Tongataboo, having a gentle breeze at north-east. About fourteen or fifteen sailing vessels, belongiufi^ to the natives, set out with us ; but every one of them^ outran tiie ships considera- bly. In the afternoon of the next day we oame to an anchor off that island, in a safe station. Soon after I landed, ac- companied by Omti and some of the officers. We found the king waiting for us upon the beach. He immediately conducted us to a small neat house, situated a little wUhin the skirts of the woods^ with a fine large area before it» #■ '%- ',r iS m- mm m H. ROUND THE WORLD. 303 Tfais house, lie told roe, was at my service during our stay at this island ; and a better situation we could not wish for. We had not been lung in the house before a pretty large circle of the natives were assembled before us. A root of the kava plant being brought and laid down before the king, he or- dered it to be split into pieces, and distributed to several people of both sexes, who began the operation of chewing it ; and a bowl of their favourite liquor was soon prepared. In the mean time a baked hog and two baskets of baked yams were produced, and afterwards divided into ten i)or- tions ; these portions were then given to certain people pre- sent ; but how many were to share in each 1 coold not tell. The liquor was next served out, but I observed that not a fourth part of the company had tasted either the victuals or the driqk. As I intended to make some stay at Tongataboo, we pitched a tent in the forenoon just by the house which Poulaho had assigned for our use. The horses, cattle and sheep, were afterwards landed, and a party of marines, with their officer, stationed there as a guard. The observatory was then set up at a small distance from the other tent ; and Mr. Kin|f resided on shore, to attend the observations. The gunnerv were ordered to conduct the traffic with the na- tives, who thronged from every part of the island with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of their produce. In a short time our land post was like a fair, and the ships were so crowded with visitors that we had hardly room to stir upon the decks. Feenou had taken up his residence in our neighbourhood ; but he Was no longer the leading man. However we still found him to be a person of consequence, and we had daily proofs of his opulence and liberality, by the continuance of his vakuible presents. But the king was equally attentive in this respect ; for scarcely a day passed without receiving from him some considerable donation. We now heard, that there were other great men of the island, whom we had not yet seen. Otago and Toobou, in particular, mentioned c, V. 17. . 3 E Ui n. ■ n 1 1^ f iif. 394 COOK*S VOYAGES a person named Marecwagee, who, they said, was of the first consequence in the place. Some of the natives even hinted that he was too great a roan to confer the honour of a visit upon us. This account exciting my curiosity, I men- tioned to Poulaho that I was very desirous of waiting upon Mareewagee ; and he readily ogreed to accompany me to the place of his residence, but we did not find him at home. About noon the next day, this chief actually came to the neighbourhood of our post on shore ; and with him, a con- siderable number of people of all ranks. I was informed that he had taken this trouble on purpose to give me an opportunity of waiting upon him. In the afternoon a party of us, therefore, accompanied by "Feenou, landed to pay him a visit. We found a person sitting under a large tree, near the shore, a little to the right of the tent. A piece of cloth, at least forty yards long, was spread before him, round which a great number of persons of both sexes were seated. It was natural to suppose that this was the great man ; but we were undeceived by Feenou, who informed us that another, who sat on a piece of mat a little way from this chief, to the right hand, was Mareewagee. He received us very kindly, and desired us to sit down by him. The person who sat under the tree, fronting us, was called Too- bou. Both he and Mareewagee had a venerable appearance. The latter is a slender man, and from his appearance seems to be considerably above three-score years of age ; the former is rather corpuleut, and almost blind with a disorder in his eyes, though not so old. We entertained them for about an hour, with the performance of two French horns and a drum ; but they seemed more pleased with the firing off of a pistol, which Capt. Gierke bad in his pocket. Be- fore I took my leave, the large piece of cloth was rolled up, and with a few cocoa-nuts, presented to me. About noon, Poulaho returned from the place where we had left him two days before, and brought ^ith him his son, a youth about twelve years of age. 1 had his company at ROUND THE WOULD. 395 dinner; but his son, thougli present, was not allowe even- ing show, the ^rde of natives about our tent being j[vj'etty large, they eng»aged in boxing and wrestling the greatest part ef the afternoes. When one of them chcose f.^ wrestle, he gets up from one side of the ring, and eroi, im, Ue ground in a sort of measured pace, clapping smartly on the elbow joint of one arm, which is bent, and produces a hollow sound. That is reekoned the challenge. If no person fmes out from the opposite side to engage him, he returns in the same manner and sits down ; but sometimes stands dapping in the middt of the ground, to pkH>voke some one to come out. If an opponent appears, they come together with marks of the great^t good-nature, generally smiling, and taking time to adjust the ;)f ece of dotb whieh is fastened round the WRf-t. Their combats seldom last long before one gives in. •b»«>^!;r: of our people ventured to eootend with toe natives in b«./k! 4hese exercises, but were always worsted. The animals which we had brought were all on shore. Knowing Mieir thievish disposition, I thought it prudent to declare my intention of leaving some of them behind, and even to make a di8trit«ution of them previeus to my depar- ture. With this viei^, in the evening of the 10th I w.^^^em- bled all the chiefi before our house, and my intended ^re- sents to them were marked out. To Poulaho, the king, I ^ave a young English bull and cow ; to Mareewagee,a Cape ^-^ ROUND THE WORLD. 401 ram and two ewes ; and to Feenou, a horse and a mare. As my design to make such a distribution had been made known the day before, most of the people in the neighbourhood were present. I instructed Omai to tell them that there were no such animals within many months sail of their island, and that we had brought them at a vast expenoe ; that therefore they must be careful not to kill any of them till they had mul- tiplied to r. numerous race ; and lastly, that they and their children ought to remember that they had received them from the men of Britain. He also explained to them their several uses, and what else was necessary for them to knew, or ra- ther as far as he knew, for Omai was not well versed in such things himself. Next day I dined ashore. The king sat down with us ; but he neither ate nor drank. I found that this was owing to the presence of a female, who, as we afterwards un- derstood, had superior rank to himself. As soon as this great personage had dined, she stepped up to the king, who put his hands to her feet ; and then she retired. He imme- diately dipped his fingers into a glass of wine, and then re- ceived the obeisance of all her followers. This was the singleinstance we ever observed of his paying this mark of reverence to any person. At the king's desire, I ordered soGie HreworkB to be played off in the evening ; but unfortu- nately being damaged, this e":hibition did not answer ex- pectation. As no more entertainments were to be expected on either side, and the curiosity of the populace was, by this time, pretty well satisfied, most of them left us. We •till, however, had thieves about us ; and encouraged by the negligence of our own people, we had continual in- stmoes of their depredations. Some of the officers, be- longing to both ships, who had m&de an excursion into the interior parts of the island, without my leave, and without my knowledge, returned this evening, after an absence of two days. They had taken with them their muskets, with the necessary ammunition, and several small articles of the o. V. 17 3 P ■I I . 402 COOK^S YOTAOGS favourite commodities ; all which the natives had the dexte- rity to steal from them, in the course of their expedition. Peenou and Poulaho, upon this occasion, very justly ob- served, that if any of my people, at any time, wanted to go into the country, they ought to be acquainted with it ; in vrhich case they would send proper persons along with them, and then they would be answerable for their safety. Though I gave myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon this occasion, most of them, through Feenou's interposition, were recovered ; except one musket and a few other articles of inferior value. We had now recruited the ships with wood and water, and had finished the repairs of our sails. However, as an m.^': ■ i of the sun was to happen on the 5th of July, and it wa& aw the 25th of June, I resolved to defer sailing till that time had elapsed, in order to have a chance of ob- serving it. Having therefore some days of leisure before me, a party of us, accompanied by Poulaho, set out early next morning, in a boat, for Mooa, the village where he and the other great men usually reside. As we rowed up the inlet, we met fourteen canoes fishing in company ; in one of which was Poulaho^s son. In each canoe was a trian- gular net, extended between two poles ; at the lower end of which was a cod to receive and secure the fish. They had already caught some fine mullets ; and they put about a dozen into our boat. I desired to see their method of fish- ing ; which they readily complied with. A shoal of fish was supposed to be on one of the banks, which they instantly iTiclosed in a long net like a seine, or set-net. This the iishers, one getting into the water out of each boat, sur- rounded with the triangular nets in their hands, with which they scooped the fish out of the sein, or caught them as they attempted to leap over it. Leaving the prince and his fishing party, we proceeded to the bottom of the bay. Here we observed a fiataoka, or bu- rying plaoe, which was much more extensive, and seem- ; \ ROUND THE WORLD. 403 ingly of more consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. We were told that it belonged to the king. It consisted of three pretty large houses, situated upon a rising ground, with a small one at a distance, all ranged longitudinally. They were covered, and paved with fine pebbles, and the whole was inclosed by large flat stones of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges ; on ter was either stinking or brackish. When we returned from our walk, which was not till the dusk of the evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of a baked hog, some fish, and yams, all excellently well cooked, after the method of these islands. As there was nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the custom of the country, and lay 3 F 2 404 COOK*S yoYAOBS Jf m ^f Hr down to sleep, our beds being mats spread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, who had made hims^^f very happy with some wine and brandy which we bid brought, slept in the same house, as well as several others of the natives. Early next morning, they began to prepare a bowl of kava. We hadseenthedrinhiBgof tbij Hqilor sometimes at the otbdr islands ; but by' no mtoais so frequently as hersy where it seems to b6 the only Iblrenoon emplbyment of Ihd principal pedple. The kava is a species of pepper, which they cultivate for thia purpose, and esteem it a valuable oie- ticle. It seldom grows to more thahi • man'a height; it branches considerably, with heai*t*sli«ped leAves, and jointed 8taU(8< The root i^ the only pair! HiM w vmtd. They break it in pinoes, sotape thd dirt off with a shell', aild then each begins and chews hia portiofi) Whibh he spits into a plantain leaf. The person whb i^ to prepare the liquor, edlteots all thetie ikiouthfula, aAd puts them into a large wooden dish or bdwl» addittg as obuch Water as will teake it of proper strength. It is tben well mixed up with the hands ; aild some loos* stuff, of Which mats are made^ is Ihrty^h u]^ the surfkceb The immediate efieci of this be- ▼elrage is not perceptible on these people^ wha use i< so fr^uently ; but on ^ome of ours, who renturdd to try it, Ihottgh so nastily pr^^ared, it had the same power aa spirits hay^ in intoxicilting them ; dr nrther, it produced that khid of Btapefkction, which is the consequence of niiug. dpittm, or other subdtandes of that knid. I have se^ theiii drink it seYen times before noon, yet it is ao disngr^aUe 6r at least seems so, that the greater part of them cmiirot swallow ii "Without making Wry faote> lind shuddering afterward* When we got on bebrd th^ ghip> I foundf that crery thiw^ had been quiet ddriag n^ idisenoe, not h theft having been Committed ; of which Fe^HOu and Futiafaihe, the kiif|f't brdther, who had tndert&ken the matmg^meiit of his oMin- trymen, bottsted not a little. This shews What power the ROUND THB WORLD. 405 chiefs have, when they hate the will to execute it ; which we were seldom to expect, since whatever was stolen from us generally, if not alwayi, was conyeyed to them. But the good conduct of the natives was of short duration ^ for the next day six or eight of them assaulted some of our peo* pie who were sawing planks. They were fired upon by the sentry ; and one was supposed to be wounded, and tluree others taken. These I kept confined all night ', and did not ditttiisS them wkhonlt punishment. After this, they be- haved with a little more circumspection, and) gave us much less trouble. This change of behaviour was certainly oc- casioned by the man being wounded; for before they had only been told the effect of fire-arms, but now they bad felt it^ On the dOtk, I visited Futtafaihe, where we spent the night ; but we were a good deal disturbed by a singular in- stance of luxury, in which their principal men indulge them- selves, that of being beat while they are asleep. Two wo- men sat by Futtafaihe, |and performed this operation, which was called tooge tooge, by beating briskly on bis body and legs with botb fist8> as on a drum, till he fell asleep^ and continuing it the whole night, with some short intervals* When onto the person is asleep, they abate a little in the strength and quickness of beating ; but resume it, if they observe any appearance of his waking. In the morning we found that Futtafaihe*s women relieved each other, and went to sleep by turns« In any other country it would be sopposed that such a practice would put an end to all rest ; but here it certainly acts as an ppiate, and is. a strong proof of what habit may effect. The noise of this, iMWeter, was not the only thing that kept us awake ; for the people^ who passed the night in the house, not only oonvei^sed among each other frequently, as in the day ; but all got up before it was light, and made a hearty meal on fish ttlid yamsj which fvere brought to them by a person n II 11 fli 1 i 11 1 fM 1 f Ml iU i'^^Su ' if jifli- iiilK Ki 406 COORDS VOYAGES ■i p:- m nvho seemed to know very well the appointed time for this nocturnal refreshment. ;» » gence of our own people. The time employed amongst them was not throw away ; we expended very little of our sea provisions, subsisting, in general, upon the produce of the islands while we staid, and carrying away with us a quan- tity of refreshments, sufficient to last till our arrival at another station, where we could depend upon a fresh sup- ply. I was not sorry, besides^ to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good people, by leaving the useful animals before-mentioned among ihem ; and, at the same time, those designed for Otaheite received fresh strength in the pastures of Tongataboo. But besides the immediate advantages which, both the natives of the Friendly Islands, and ourselves, received by this visit, AitUre navigators from Europe, if any such ever tread our steps, will profit by the knowledge I acquired of the geo- graphy of this part of the Pacific Ocean ; and the more philosophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new situations, will, perhaps, find matter of amusement, if not of instruction, in the information which I have been enabled to convey to him concerning the inhabitants of this Archipelago. According to the information that we received there, this Archipelago is very extensive. Above one hun- dred and fifty islands were reckoned up to us by the nativea, who made use of bit& of leaves to ascertain their number. The natives of the Friendly Islands seldom exceed the c. V. 18. 3 G 410 €OOK*S V0YA0B8 Qoinmoii stature (though we have rneasured some who tv^re IkboTeaix feet) but are very strong and well made; especially ft! to their lirobs. They are generally broad about the shoulders ; and though the muscular disposition of the men, liirhioh seems a consequence of much action, rather conveys the appearance of strength than of beauty, there are several to be seen who are really handsome. We met with hundreds of truly European faces, and many genuine Roman noses amongst them. Their eyes and teeth are good ; but the last, neither so remarkably white, nor so well set as are often found amongst Indian nations. The women are not so much dis- tinguished from the men by their features, as by their gene- ral form, which is, for (he most part, destitute of that strong, fleshy firmness that appears in the latter. Though the features of some are so delicate, as not only to be a true index of their sex, but to lay claim to a considerable share of beauty and expression, for the bodies and limbs of most of the females are well proportioned ; and f ^t absolutely perfect models of a beautiful figure. But tuv MOst remark- able distinction in the women, is the uncommon smallness and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in oompe- lition with the finest in Europe. The general colour is s^ cast deeper than the copper brown ; but several of the meQ and women have a true olive complexJ#n ; and some of tliQ last are even a great deal fairer. We saw a man and a ftoy jU Hapaee, and a child at Anawooka, perfectly white. Such have been found amongst all black nations ; but I a|ik prehend that their colour is ratl^er a disease than a natural pl^enomenon. Their countenances very remarkably express the abundant mildness or good-nature which they possess ; and ar^ entirely free from that savage keenness which marks nation^ ip a barbarous state. They are frank, cheerful, and good-humoured, though sometimes in the presence of thenr chiefs, tliiey put on a degree of gravity, and such a serious air a;^ b^come^ stii? and awkward, and has an appearance of reserve. s-? ?; Ml .¥ .0 ROUND THB WOltLO. 411 Their peaceable disposition is suiHcicntly evinced f^om the friendly reception that all strangers have met with who have visited them. Instead of offerinGr to attack them openly or clandestinely, as has been the case with most of the inhabitants of these seas, they have never appeared in the smallest degree hostile ; but on the contrary, like the most civilized people, have courted an intercourse with tUeit* visitors by bartering, which is the only medium that uniYM all nations in a sort of friendship. Upon the whole, they seem possessed of many of the most exeellerit qualities that adorn the human mind ; such as industry, ingenuity, per- severance, affability, and, perhaps, other virtues, vVbich our short stay with them might prevent our observi'tlg. The only defect sullying their character, that we knoV/ of, is a propensity to thieving ; to which we fourid those Of all ages, and both sexes, addicted ; and to art Uiicommon de- gree. Great allowances should b^ made for the foibles of these poor natives of the t'acific Ocedn, vvhose minds we overpowered with the glare of objects equally neW to them, as they were captivating. The thefts so ^equently coni- mitted by the natives, of what we had brought along with US| may be said to arise solely from an intense curiosity ot^ desire to possess something whiOh they ha(d not been accus- tomed to before, and belonged to a sort of people so different^ from themselves. Their hair is, in general, straig>bt^ thick, and stiroDgv though a few have it bushy or fVizzled. The natural colour, I believe, almost without exception, is black ; but the greats egt part of the men, and some of the women, have it stained of a brown, or purple dolour, atid a fb\V of an orange cast. The dress of both men aiid wotnen i^ the sariie ; and consists of a piece of cloth or matting (but ttiOsftly the former) about two yards wide, and two and a half long ; at least so long^ as to go once and a half round the waist, to Which it is con^- fined by a girdle or cord. It is double before, and hangs down like a petticoat, as low as the middle of the leg. The 3 G a cook's V0YA«IC» JT U|>|>er part of the garsnent, above the girdle, is plaited into several folds, so that, when unfolded, there is cloth suffij" cient to draw up and wrap round the shoulders ; which is \ery seldom done. The inferior sort are satiisfied with ismall pieces ; and very often wear nothing but a covering made «¥ lea'ves of plants, or the uiavo, which is a narrow piece ni cloth, or naatting, like a sash. This they pass b^ween the th^Jis and wrap round the waist ; but the use of it is chittily ooMifined to the men. The ornaments worn by both sexes are necklaces, made of the fruit of the pandanus and vari- ous sweet-smelling flowers, whidi go under the geareral name of kahuUa. Others are composed of small shells, the wing and leg-bones of birds, shark's teeth, and other things ; all which hang loose upon the breast ; rings of tortoise-shell their fingers ; and « Dumber of ihez*i joined together as bracelets on the wrist. 1 The employment of the women, is of the easy kind, and^ for the most part, such as may be executed in tlie house. The manufacturing their dloth is wholly consigned to their care. The manufacture nei^t in consequence, and also, within the department of the women, is that of their mats, ^Mch excel every thing I have s&sn at any other place, botb as to tlieir texture and their beauty. The province allotted to tlie men, as might be expected, is £sur more laboriouis and. extensive than that of the women. Agriculture, architec- ture boat-building, fi^iiig, and other things that r^%te to navigation, are the objects of their care. Cultivated roots and fruits being their principal support, this requires tbeir constant attention to agriculture, which they pursue very diligently, and seem to have brought almost to as great perfection as circumstances will permit. In planting the plantains and yams, they observe so much exactness, that which ever way you look, the rows present themselves regu- lar and complete. It is rei fiarkable, that Uiese people, who in many tilings 4iij[day much taste and ingeii'iit;;, should show tittle of either ROOMI) THE WOftf.D. 413 in building their houses. Those of the lofver people are poor huts, and very small ; those of the better sort are larger and more comfortable. The dimensions of one of a siiddUng size, are abobt thirty feet long, twenty broad, and tiveWe higk Their house is, properly speaking, a thatoh<«d roof or shed, supported by pests and rafters, disposed in a very judicious tnanner. The floor is raised with earih smoothed;, and covered with strong thick matting, and kept very dean. Theii whole furniture consists of a bowl or two, in whicli they make kava ^ a fe w gourds ; cocoa-nut shells ; and some small wooden stools, which serve them for pillows. Their weapons are clubs of different sorts, (in the ornamentiiig of which they spi^d much time) spears, and darts. They have also bows and arrows ; but these seemed to be designed only for amusement, such as shooting at birds, and not for mili- tary purposes. Tliey seem to have no set time for meals. They go to bed as soon as it is dark, and rise with the dawn in the Hoorning. Their private diversions are chiefly singing, dancing and music, performed by the women. The dancing of the men has a thousand different motions with the hands, to which we are entire strangers; and they are performed with an ease and grase which are not to be describe the north, but not without get- ting from them, [during their aciiiity u our ship, the name of their island, which they called Toobouai. At day brf^ak, in the morning ol the 12th, we saw the island of Maiioat 8oou after, Otaheite made its appearance. When we first drew near the island, several canoes came off to the ship, each conducted by two or aiee men. But, as they' were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of hm. At length, a chief, whom I had known before, named Qotee, and Omai^s brother-in-law,, who chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three os faur unore persons, all of whom knew Omai, came oa board. Yet there was oolbiug either tender or striking a;: 416 C0Olt*8 VOYAOll Id tlieir meeti»^. On the om^mj, there seented to btia perfect UidiflleFence on both sides, tHl Omai having taken his broibeF down into the cabin, opened th« dvawer where he kei^t hU red feathers, and gave him a few. This being pre^ sently known among the rest of the natives upon d^k, the f!«ce of aMirs was eniirely turnedi, and Outee^ who wotihl hai^dly s[>eak to Ooiai before, now begged that they might be friends, and exchange names. Omai accepted the honour, and contirmed it with a present of red feathers; and Ootee^ by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. But it was evident to^ every one of us, that it was not the man, but his pro<-- perty, they were in love with. Such was Omni^s first reception among his countrymen. J own 1 never ex- pected it would be otlierwise ; but still I was in hopes that the valuable cafgo of presents, with) which the liberality of bis friends in England had loaded him, would be the means of raising him into oonsequence, and of making him respected, and even courted by the first persons throughout the extent of the Society Islands, This would have happened, had he conducted himself with prudence ; but instead of it, I; am sorry to say, tliat 'he paid too little regard to the repeated advice of those who wished him well, and suffered himself to be duped by every designing knave. The important news of red feathers being on board our ships, having been con- veyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to break next morning than we were surrounded by a mul- titude of canoes, crowded with people bringing hog^ and fruit to market. At first, a quantity of feathers not greater than what might be got from a tomtit, would purchase a hog offorty or fifty pounds weight, but as almost every body in the ships was possessed of some of this precious article of Irade, it fell in its value above five hundred per cent, before night. Soon after we had anohoted, Omai's sister oamo on board so see him. I was happy to observe that, much to the honour of them both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest afleotion, eaeier to be conceived ROUND THE WORLD. 417 than to be described. This moving scene having closed, and the ship being properly moored, Omai and I went on shore. My first object was to pay a visit to a man, whom n*y friend represented as a very extraordinary personage indeed, for he said, that he was the god of Bolabola. We found him seated under one of those small awnings, which they usually carry in their larger canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs ; so that he was car- ried from place to place upon a hand-barrow. From Omai*s account of this person I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to him ; but, excepting some young plantain trees that lay before him, and upon the awning under which he sat, I could observe nothing by which hie might be dis- tinguished from their other chiefs. Omai presented to him a tuft of red feathers, tied to the end of a small stick ; but aftera little conversation on indifferent matters with this Bo- labola man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plentifully with tears of joy. I left him with the old lady, in the midst if a number of people, who had gathered round him, and went to view a house, said to be- built by strangers since I was here before. By an inscrip^ tion, I found it was erected by some Spaniards that had been lately there in two ships from Lima. When I re- turned, I found Omai holding forth to a large company; and it was with some difficulty that he could be got away to accompany 'me on board; where I had an important affair to settle, in regard to the stated allowance of spirituous liquors ; and I had the satisfaction to find, that the crews of both ships unanimously consented to an abridgement in the usual quantity, while at this place, that they might not be under the necessity of being put to a short allowance in a cold climate. The next day we began some necessary operations. I also put on shore the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed two men to look after them while grazing ; for I c. V. 18 3 H '1 4|9 CpOK^S VOYAGES did not iatepd to lea^e any of theip nt th)s part of the island. Dudllff ihf two following do^ys it hardly ever ceased raining. Ttie natives, nevertheless, came to us from every quarter* the news of our arrival having rapidly spread. On the 17th, Qouii and I went on shore to pay a formal visit to a young chief, named Wabeiadooa, who tiad come down to the beach. On this occasion, Omai, assisted hy some of his friends, dressed hinDself, not after the English fashion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of Toiigata,\>oo, nor in the dress of any QOWQtry upon earth ; hut in a strange medley of all that hf) was possessed of. On OUT landing, Etary, or the god of B^labola, carried on a hand- harrow, i^ttended us to a large house, where he was set down ; and wci seated ourselves on each side of hUn^ I caused a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be spread out before us, on whWb I laid the presents I intended to make. Pre^ aently the young chief came» attended by his mother, and several principal men, who all seated themselves at the other end of the cloth> facing us. Then a man» who sat by me, made a speech) consisting of short and separate sentett«e«; part of yifhich, was dictated by those about him* He was* answered, by one from the opposite side iiear the chief,, Etary spoke next; then Omai; and both of them were answered from the aain^, qyuarter. These oraiiions were eu. tirely about m.y arrival i^nd^ con^ctiqns with them. The persou who sp^iHe last toU u$ie,^ amiii^st othe^ things, that lie was aiMhoriyed to make a fojpmail surrender of the pjP(jy«> vince of Tiarahoo, to. me, and of every thing in it, which* marks very plainly, that these people are; noi strangers to the pol'^y of accommodaUng themselves tp present oircun^. sjtanoes. At leng,% the ^foung chief was diicetpM. by hia attendants> to come and embrace me ; and* by way of con- firming this treaty of friendship, we exchanged, names. The. ceremony being closed,, he and his friends agcompanied me on board to dinner. Having taken in'a fresh supply of water, Qfld finished all Othsr necessary operations, on the 22nd I ROUND THE WOllLO. 410 iirought off the cattle and sheep, aiid made ready for sea. On the 23rd, we got under sail, and steered for MataVai Bay, where the Resolution anchored the same evening. But the Discovery did not get in till the nfext morning. About nine o*clock in the morning, Otoo, the king of th?* ^^ r- ther enquiry, the fellow had imposed upon us ; and thk was confirmed by Williamson's report, as sodtt as he returned* Hitherto ihe attention of Otoo and his people was confined to us ; but next morning a new 9cene of business opened, by the arrival of nsMsengers from Eiroeo^ with intelligeBoe that the peoplein that island were in arms, and that Otoo's par- tizans there had been worsted, and obliged to retreat to the mountains. The quarrel between th« two islandv^ whieh commenced in 1774, bad, it seems, partljr subsided ever since. The formidable armament, which I saw at thit time, bad sailed soon alter I then left Otaheite ; bcit the mal»- eontentsof Etmeo had made so stout a resistance, that the fleet had returned without effecting much ; and now anotfaei^ eipe* dition tnis necessary. On the arrital of the messengers, all the dtAehif who happened to be at Matayai, assembled it Otoo*a house, where I actually wae at the thne, ahd hid the "m. .■^«„ •m ROUNP THt WORLD. 493 honour to be admitted into their council. One of the mes- aengers opened the buiiness in a speech of considerable length, in order to excite the assembled chiefs of Otaheite to arm on the occasion. This opinion was combated by otliera who were against commencing hostilities. At length the party for war prevailed. Otoo, during the whole debate, remained silent. Those of the council who were for pro- secuting th;^ war, applied to roe for assistance ; and all of them wanted to knew what part I y,\m\A take. Omai was sent for to be my interpreter ; but, as he could not be found, I was obliged to speak for myself, and told them, as well as I could, that as the people of Eimeo had never offended me, I could not think myself at liberty to engage in ho»- tilities against them. With this declaration they seemed satisfied. On inquiring into the cause of the war, we were told that some years ago a brother of Walieadooa of 7i*ieraboo, was sent to Eimeo, at the request of Maheine, a popular chief of that island, to be their king ; but that he had not been there a week, before Maheine, having caused him to be killed, set up for himself in opposition to Tierataboonooe, his sisterS son, who became the lawful heir ; or else had been pitched upon by the people of Otaheite, to succeed to the government on the death of the other. Towha, a man of much weight in the island, happened not to be at Matavai at this time. It however appeared that he was no stranger to what was transacted ; and that he enteced with more spiji^it into the affair than any other chief. For, early in the morning of the 1st of September, a messenger arrived from him to acquaint Otoo, that he had killed a man to be sacrificed to the Eatooa, to implore the assistance of the. god against Eimeo. This act of worship wa» to be per^ formed at the^great moral at Attabooroo \ and Otoo's pre- sence, it seems» was absolutely necessary on that soleopn occasion. I proposed to Otoo that I might be allowed to accompany him. To this he readily consented ; and we immediately set out in my boat, with my old friend Potatou, 1*^ iii 4^4 COOK*S VOYAGES Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Webber ; Omai following in a canoe. As soon as we landed at Attahooroo, which was about two o^clock in the afternoon, Otoo expressed his desire that the seamen might be ordered to remain in the boat ; and that Mr. Anderson, Mr. Webber, and myself, might take oif our hats as soon as we should come to the morai, to which we immediately proceeded, attended by a great many men and some boys, but not one woman. We found four priests, and their attendants, or assistants, waiting for us. The ceremonies now began. One of the priests^ at- tendants brought a young plantain tree, and laid it down before* Otoo. One of the priests, seated at the morai, now began a long prayer. During this prayer, a man who stood by the officiating priest, held in his hand two bundles, seemingly of cloth. In one of them, as we afterwards found, was the royal maro ; and the other, if I may be allowed the expression, was the ark of the Eatooci. As soon as the prayer was ended, the priests at the morai, with their at« tendants, went and sat down by those upon the beach, carrying with them the two bundles. Here they renewed their prayers. The dead body was now taken out of a canoe, and laid upon the bench, with the feet to the sea. The priests placed themselves around it, some sitting and others standing ; and one, or more of them, repeated sentences for about ten minutes. It was now laid in a parallel direction with the sea-shore. One of the priests then, standing at the %et of it, pronounced a long prayer, in which he was at times joined by the others, each holding in his hand a tuft of red feathers. In the course of this prayer some hair was pulled off the head of the sacrifice, and the left eye taken out, both of which were presented to Otoo wrapped up in a green leaf. He did not however touch it, but gave, to the man who presented it, the tuft of feathers which he had re- ceived from Towha. This, with the hair and eye, was carried back to the priests. During some part of this last ceremony, a king-fisher making a noise in the trees, Otoo ROtTND THE WORLD 435 turned to me, safing, « That is the Batooa !** md ieemed to look upon it to he a good omtia* The body ivas then oar^ vimd a little way with its head toward the morai, airi laid under a tree, near which were fixed three broad thin pieoes of wood, differently but rudely carved. The bundles of cloth, were laid on apart of the morai, and the tufts of red feathers were placed at the feet of the sacrifice, round which the priests took their stations, and we were now allowed to go as near as we pleased. He, who seemed to be the chief priest, sat at a small distance, and spoke for a quarter of an hour, but with different tones and gestures, so that he seemed to expostulate with, or question the dead person, to whom be constantly addressed himself. He then ohaunted a prayer, which lasted near half an hour, in a whioin^, me- lancholy tone, accompanied b} two other priests, and in wMch Potatou and some others joined. In the course of this prayer some more hair was piuoked by the priest from the head of the corpse, and put upon one of the bundles. After this the chief priest prayed alone, hokliog in his hand the feathers, which came from Towha. When he had finished^ he gave them to another, who prayed in like manner. Then all the tuitts of feathers were laid upon the bundles of cloth^ which closed the ceremony at this place. The corpse was then oa«*ried up to the most conspicuous part of the morai^ with the feathers, the two bundles of cloth, and the drums, the last of which beat slowly. The feathers and bundles, were laid against the ])ile of stones, and the corpse at the foot of them. The priests, ha-ving again seated them- selves rcitnd it, renewed theh^ prayers, while some of their attendants dug a hole about two feet deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and covered it over with earth and stones. While they were putting him into the grave, a boy squeaked aloud, and Omai said to me that it was the EatOoo. During this time a fire having been made, a dog was produced and killed, by twisting his neek and suffo« eating' him. The hair was singed off, and the entrails taken c. V. 18. 3 I Ii> i n 426 COOK*« YOYAOBS I! out and thrown into the fire, whiere they were left to con- sume. The body of the dog, after being besmeared with blood, and dried over the Are, was, with the liver and heart, carried and laid down before the priests, who sat praying round the grave. They continued their ejaculations over the dog for some time, while two men, at intervals, beat on two drums very loud, and a boy screamed as before in a loud shrill voice, three different times. This, as we were told, was to invite Eatooa to feast on the banquet that they had prepared for him. As soon as the priests had ended their prayers, the carcase of the dog, with what belonged to it, was laid on a scaffold, about six feet high, that stood close by, on which lay the remains of two other dogs, and of two pigs, which had lately been sacrificed, and at this time emitted an intolerable stench. This kept us at a greater dis- tance than would otherwise have been required of us. When the dog was put upon the scaffold, the priests and attendants gave a kind of shout, which closed the ceremonies for the pre- sent. The day being now also closed, we were conducted to a house belongiuj^ to Potatou, where we were entertained and lodged for the night. Some other religious rites were per- formed next day ; but on this subject we think we have said enough to satisfy our readers, perhaps to disgust them. The unhappy victim, offered to the object of their worship, upon this occasion, seemed to be a middle-aged man ; and, as we were told, was a towtow ; that is, one of the lowest class of the people. But, after all my enquiries, I could not learn that he had been pitched upon, on account of any particular crime, committed by him, meriting death. Hav- ing had an opportunity of examining the appearance of the body of the poor sufferer, now offered up, I should observe that it was bloody about the heftd and face, and a good deal bruised upon the right temple ; which marked the manner of his being killed. And we were told, that he had been privately knocked on the head with a stone. Whenever any one of the great chiefs thinks a human ROUND THE WORLD. 427 sacrifice necessary, on any particular emergency, he pitches upon the victim. Some of his trusty seri^ants are then sent, who fall upon him suddenly, and put him to death with a club, or by stoning liira. The king is next acquainted with it, whose presence, at the solemn rites that follow, is, as I was told, absolutely necessary j and, indeed, on the present occasion, we could observe that Otoa bore a principal part. It is much to be regretted, that a practice, so horrid in its own nature, and so destructive of that inviolable right of self-preservation, which every one is born with, should be found still existing. Though we should suppose that never more than one person is sacrificed on any single occasion at Otaheite, it is more than probable that these occasions hap- pen so frequently, as to make a shocking waste of the human race ; for I counted no less than forty-nine skulls of former victims, lying before the moral, where we saw one more added to the number. And, as none of those skulls had as yet suffered any considerable change from the weather, it may hence be inferred that no great length of time had elapsed since at least this considerable number of unhappy wretches had been offered upon this altar of blood. Human sacrifices, however, are not the only barbarous custom we find still prevailing amongst this benevolent hu- mane people. For, besides cutting out the jaw-bones of their enemies, slain in battle, which they carry about as trophies, they In some measure offer their bodies as a sa- crifice to the Eatooa. Soon after a battle in which they have been victors, they collect all the dead that have fallen into their hands, and bring them to the morai, where, with a great deal of ceremony, they dig a hole, and bury them all in it, as so many offerings to the gods ; but their skulls are never after taken up. Before we parted, we were asked, if the solemnity, at which we had been present, answered our expectations ; what opinion we had of its efficacy ; and whether we performed such acts of worship in our own country ? During the celebration of the horrid ceremony, 8 12 €09 cook's voyages * w & we had pre8erve4 a pirofSiHiiiil lil^nce; but as soon as it w&s closed) we made no scruple in expressing our sentiments very freely about it to Otod, and those who attended him \ of course, therefore, I could not conceal my detestation of U, in a subsequent conTersetion with Towha. Omai was made use of as our interpreter ; and be entered into our ar- guments with so much spirit, that this chief seemed to be in great wrath, especially when he was told, that if he had put a man to death in England, as be had done here, his rank would tiot have protected him from being hanged for it Upon this he exclaimed, mueno! maenol (vile! vile!) and would not hear another word. ]>uring this debate, many of the natives were present, chiefly the attendants and servants of Towha himself; and when Omai began to ex> plain the punishment that would be inflicted in England upon the greatest man, if he killed the meanest servant, they seemed to listen with great attention ; and were, probably, of a different opinion from that of their master on this subject. ' On the 4th of September, a party of us dined ashore with Omai, who gave excellent fare, consisting of fish, fowls, pork, and puddings. After dinner I attended Otoo, who had been one of the party, back to his house, where I found all bis servants very busy, getting a quantity of pTovi^idnsI ready for me. Amongst other articles there was a large heig, which they killed in my presence. There was also a large pudding, the whole process in making which I s4w. It was composed of bread-fruit, ripe ptantaina, taro, and pahu or pandanus nuts, each rasped, scraped, or beat up fine, and baked by itself. A quantity of juice, pressed frdra cocoa-nut kernels, was pat iWo a Ihtge tray, cr woodien vessel. The other articles, hot frOta (be ot*n, * Were depo- sited in this' vessel, and a few hot stones were also jiut in to make the contents simmer. Three or four hiei* made use of sticks to stir the several ingrediei.ts, till they were incoltjio^ rated one with another, and the juice of the 6oeoa-iiUt Ihrs turned to oil, so that the whole mass, at lafst^'^bectittie of ROUND THB WORLD. 42tt the oonsUiency of a hasty^pudding. Some of these pud- dings are exoelleDt; and few, tliatwe make in England, equal th*%m, Otoo's hog being baked, and the pudding, which I have described, being made, they, together with two living hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, were put into a canoe, and sent on board my ship, followed by myself and all the royal family. In the evening of the 7th, we played off some fire-works^ before a great concourse of people. Some were highly en- tertained with the. exhibition ; but by far tlie greater number of spectators were terribly frightened, insomuch that it was with difficulty we could prevail upon them to keep together to see the end of the show. A table*rocket was the last. It flew off the table and dispersed the whole crowd in a mo- ment ; even the most resolute among them fled with pr«oipl-r tation. Otoo was nut more attentive to supply our wants by a suc-r cession of presents, than he was to contribute to our amuse- ment by a succession of diversions. A party of us having gone down to Oparre on the 10th, he treated us with what may be called a play. His three sisters were the actresses ; and the dresses they appeared in were ilew and elegant; that Is, more so than we h&d usually met with at any of these islands. In the evening we returned from Oparre, where we left Otoo, and all the royal family; and I saw none of them till the 18th ; when all, but the chief himself, paid me a visit. He, as they told me, was gone to Attahooroo, to ataist this day at another human sacrifice, which the ehiisi ofTiaraboo had seat thither to be ofiered up at the moral. This second instance, in the course of a few diy«, wad too Btelanohaly a proof how numerous the victims of t^s bloody superstition are amongst this humane people. I would Yxkyb been presebt at this sacrifice too, had I known of ittnfilne, for now it was ^o late. The following evening Otoo returned' from exercising this ikiost disagreeable bf all 'his daticfi as soirereiga ; and tfaer next day, htmg now itoiioiic«4 430 COOK^S VOYAGES I h < V h with his company, Capt. Clerke anil I, mounted on horse- back, took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the very great surprise of a great train of people who attended on the occasion, gazing upon us with as much astonishment as i^ we had been centaurs. Omai, indeed, had once or twice before this attempted to get on horseback, but he had been as often thrown off before he could contrive to seat himself, so that this was the first time they had seen any body ride a horse. What Capt Clerke and I began, was, after this, repeated every day while v;c £t»id, by one or another of our people. And yet the curiosity of the natives continued still unabated. They were exceedingly delighted with these ani- mals, after they had seen the use that was made of them ; and, as far as I could judg^, they conveyed to them a better idea of the greaUiess of other nations, than all other novel- ties put together, thai their European visitors had carried amongst them. In the morning of the 18th, Mr. Anderson, myself, and Omai, went again with Otoo to Eparre, and took with us the sheep which I intended to leave upon the island, con- sisting of an English ram and ewe, and three Cape ewes, all which I gave to Otoo. After dfning with Otoo, we re- turned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparre. This day, and also the 19th, we were very sparingly supplied witli fruit. Otoo hearing of this, he and his brother, who had attached himself to Capt. Clerke, came from Oparre, between nine and ten o*clock in the evening, with a large supply for both ships. This marked his humane attention more strongly than any thing he had hitherto done for us. The next day all the royal family came with presents ; so that our wants were not only relieved, but we had more provisions than we could consume. Having got all our water on board, the ships being caulkedy the rigging overhauled, and every thing put in order, I began to think of leaving the island, that 1 might have sufficient time to spare for visiting the othery in this ROUND THfi WORLD. 4S1 neighbourhood. 'With this view, we removed from the shore our observatories and instruments, and bent our sails. Early in the morning of the 22nd, Otoo and his father came on board to know when I proposed sailing. For, having been informed that there was a good harbour at Eimeo, I told them that I should visit that island on my way to Huaheine; and they were desirous of talcing a passage with me, and of their fleet sailing at the same time to reinforce Towha. As I was ready to take my departure, 1 left it to them to name the day ; and the Wednesday following was fixed upon, when I was to take on board Otoo, his father, mother, and, in short, the whole family. These points being settled, I pro- posed setting out immediately for Oparre, where all the fleet, fitted out for the expedition, was to assemble that day, and to be reviewed. I had just time to get into my boat, when news was brought that Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, and had returned with his fleet to Attahooroo. This unexpected event made all farther proceedings in a military way quite unnecessary ; and the war canoes, instead of irendezvouzing at Oparre, were ordered home to their respective districts. I now returned on board my ship, at- tended by Otoo*s mother, his three sisters, and eight more women. At first, I thought this numerous train of females came into my boat with no other intention than to get a passage to Matavai. But, when we arrived at the ship, they told me that they intended to pass the night on board, for the express purpose of undertaking the cure of a dis- order I had complained of ; which was a pain of the rheu- matic kind. I accepted the friendly ofier, had a bed spread for them on the cabin floor, and submitted myself to their directions. They began to squeeze me with both hands^ from head to foot, but particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my flesh became a perfect mummy. In short, after undergoing this discipline for about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away from them. However the operation gave me im- Mi 41ft houCb J9rJk wfaieh eneoam^ed ine to ^bttit W Mo4h«r rabbing^ down before I wept to bed ; titdiU w«i»4p «fiti|ii tiMt I found myself prett j easy ftU the nigfat alter. My fe- male physioiaos repeated their prcacriptioD. the next moriuDg before they went ashore, and again in tlie eTctting, wbtp tfaey returned on board, after which I found the paias en- tirely remofed ; and the core being perfected, they took, ^ir leaTe of me the following morning. This they call ro- mee ; an operation, which, in my opinion, far exceeds the flesh brash, or any thing of the kind, ih&t we make use of externally. It is universally practised amongst these islaQder* ; being sometimes performed by the men, but more generally by the w which he spread on diffinrent parts of his vesisef, all at the fame time ; and drew together as many people to look ather^ as a man df war Would, dressed, in a European port. These streamers of Omai, were a mixture of EngUebv French, Sftttmsb, and Dutch, whidi were all the European colours that he bad aeen. Omai hatl atso provided himself wi^t good stock of doth and cocoa.nut oil, which are not only in greater plcn4y» but mueh better at Otaheite than at any of the Society Ishnds ; Insomuch that they are artides of trade. Omai "would not have behaved so inconsistently, and s^fnuch uri-^ like himself, as he did in many instances, but fof his sister ROUND THE WORLD. 433 and brother-in-law, wlio, together with a few more of their acquaintance, engrossed him entirely to themselves, with no other view than to strip him of every thing he had got. And they would undoubtedly have succeeded in their scheme, if I had not put a stop to it in time, by taking the most useful articles of his property into my possession. On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and informed me, that he had got a canoe, which he desired I would take with me, and carry home, as a present from him to his Majesty, the King of Great Britain, whom he called Earee rah';:i no Pre- tane ; it being the only thing, he said, that he could send worth his acceptance. 1 was not a little pleased with Otoo for this mark of his gratitude. It was a thought entirely his own, not one of us having given him the least hint about it ; and it shewed that he fully understood to whom he was in- d«bted for the most valuable presents he had received. As it was too large for me to take on board, I could only thank him fop his good intention ; but it would have pleased him much better, if his present could have been accepted. We were detained here some days longer than I expected, by light breezes from the west. At length, at three o'clock in the evening of the 39th, the wind came at East, and we weighed anchor. The frequent visits that we had lately paid to this island, seem to have created a full persuasion that the intercourse will not be discontinued. It was strictly enjoined me by Otoo, to request, in his name, the Earee rahie no Pretane, to send him, by the next ships, red fea- thers, and the birds that produce them ; axes ; half a dozen muskets, with powder and shot ; and by no means to forget horses. If I could have prevailed upon Omaito fix himself at Otaheite, I should not have left it so soon as I did. For there was not a probability of our being cheaper or better supplied with refreshments at any other place, than we con- tinued to be here, even at the time of our leaving it. Be- sides, such a cordial friendship and confidence subsisted be- tween as and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expected c. V. 10. 3 K ; '-^ 434 COOR*S V0TA0I8 !l I- any wbeM'else ; and it is a little extraordinary, that thw friendly intercourse had never been once Interrupted by any untoward accident, nor had tliere been a theft committed that deserves to be mentioned. When the Spanish ships, which had some time before touched here, left the island, four Spaniards remained be- hind. Two were priests, one a servant, and the fourth made himself very popular amonj; the natives, who distinguish him by the name of Matema. He seems to have been a person who had studied their lavjeruage ; or, at least to have spoken it so as to be understood ; and to have taken uncommon pains to impress the minds of the islanders with the most exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spanish nation, and to make them think meanly of the English. He even went so far as to assure them, that we no longer existed as an independent nation ; that Pretane was only a small island, which they> the Spaniards, had entirely destroyed ; and, for me, tliat they had met with me .^c sea, and, with a few shot, had sent my ship, and every soul in her, to the bottom ; so that my visiting Otaheite, at this time, was of course very unex- pected. With what design the priests staid we cannot guess. If it was to convert the people to the catholic faith, they had not succeeded in any one instance. When they had staid ten months, two ships came to Oheitepeha, took them on board, and sailed again in five days. This hasty departure shews that whatever design the Spaniards might have had upon this island, they had now laid it aside ; yet before they went away, tliey would have the natives believe that they still meant to return, and to bring with them bouses, all kinds of animals, and men and women, who were to settle, live and die on the island. Otoo said if the Spaniards should return, he would not let tlicm oome to Mate vat Fort, which, he said, was ours. It was easy to see that the idea pleased him ; little thinking that the com- pletion of it would, at once, deprive him of his kingdom, and the people of their liberties. This shews with what ROnVO TlIB WORLD. 435 faoiliiy a letilement might be obtained at Otahette; which, grateful as I am for repeated good offices, I hope will never happen. We had no sooner anchored at the neighbouring island of Eimeo, than the ships were crowded with the inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board ; for the^ had no- thing with them for the purpose of barter. But, the next morning, this deficiency was supplied ; several canoes then arriving from more distant parts, which brought with them abundance of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. These they exchanged for hatchets, nails, and b«EMls ; for red feathers were not so much sought for here, «8 at Ota^ beite. In the morning of the 2nd of October, Mabeine, the chief of the island, paid me a visit He approached the ship with great caution, and it required some persuasion to get him on board. This chief, who, with a few followers, had made himself independent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is bald-headed ; which is rather an un* common appearance in these islands, at that age. He wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to shew his head. They had seen us shave the head of one of their people, whom we had caught stealing ; they therefore concluded that this was the punishment usually inflicted by us upon all thieves ; and one or two of our gentlemen, whose heads were not overburthened with hair, we could observe, lay under violent suspicions of being tetos, or thieves, Having employed two .or three days in getting up oil our spirit casks, to tar their heads, which we found necessary, to save them from the efibrts of a small insect to destroy them, we hauled the ship off into the stream, on the 6th of October in the morning, intending to put to sea the next day ; but an accident happened which prevented it. We bad sent our goats ashore, to graze, with two men to look after them ; notwithstanding which precaution, the natives had contrived to steal one of them in the evening. The loss of this goat would have been of little consequence^ ii^it bad 3 K 2 436 COOK*S VOYAGES not interfered mih my views of stocliing other blonds iVitb these animals ; but this bein^ the case, it became necessary to recover it, if possible ; and after much trouble we suc- ceeded. At Eimeo we abundantly supplied the ships with fire wood. We had not taken in any at Otaheite, where the procuring this article would have been very inconvenient ; there not being a tree at Matavai but what is useful to the inhabitants. We also got here a good store of refreshments. There is a very striking difference in tlie women of this island and those of Otaheite. Those of Eimeo are of low stature, are of a dark hue, and, in general, forbidding features. If we met with a fine woman amongst them, we were sure, upon enquiry, to find that she had come from some other island. We left Eimeo on the 12th of October, 1777, and the next morning we saw Huaheine. At noon, we anchored at the north entrance of Owharre harbour, which is on the west side of the island. Our arrival brought all the principal peo- ple of the island to our ships, on the next morning, being the 13th. This was just what I wished, as it was high time to think of settling Omai ; and the presence of these chiefs, I guessed, would enable me to do it in the most satisfactory manner. He now seemed to have an inclination to establish himself at Ulietea ; and if he and I could have agreed about the mode of bringing that plan to bear, I should have had no objection to adopt it. His father had been dispossessed by the men of Bolabola, when they conquered Ulietea, of some land in that island, and I made no doubt of being able to get it restored to the son in an amicable manner. For that pur- pose it was necessary that he should be on good terms with those who now were masters of the island ; but he was too great a patriot to listen to any such thing ; and was vain enough to suppese that I would reinstate him in his for- feited lands by force. This made it impossible to fix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me Huaheine as the proper place. I, therefore, resolved to avail myself of the presence of the ROUND THE WOULD. 437 ehief men of ihelsUnd, and to make this proposal to them. After the hurry of the morning was over, wc f^ot ready to pay a formal visit to Taireetareea, the sovereign, meaning then to introduce this business. Omai dressed himself very pro- perly on this occasion ; and prepared a handsome present for the chief himself, and another for his Eatooa. Indeed, after he got clear of the gang that surrounded him at Ota- heite, he behaved with such prudence as to gain respect. We waited some time for Taireetareea, as I would do no- thing till the Earee rahie came ; but when he appeared, 1 found that his presence might have been dispensed with, as he was not above eight or ten years of age. Omai, who stood at a little distance from this circle of great men, began with making his offering to the gods, consisting of red fea- thers, cloth, &c. Each article was laid before one of the company, who, I understood, was a priest, and was delivered with a set speech or prayer, spoken by one of Omai's friends, who sat by him, but mostly dictated by himself. In these prayers he did not forget his friends in England, nor those who had brought him safe back. The Earee rahie no Pre- tane. Lord Sandwich, Toote, Tatee, (Cook and Clarke) were mentioned in every one of them. When Omai's offer- ings and prayers were finished, the priest took each article, in the same order in which it had been laid before him, and nfter repeating a prayer, sent it ]to the moral ; which, as Omai told us, was at a great distance, otherwise the offerings would have been made there. These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai sat down by me, and we en- tered upon business. Omai^s establishment was then pro« posed to the assembled chiefs. He acquainted them, *' that he had been carried by us into our country, where he was well received by the great king and his Earees, and treated with every mark of regard and affection, while he staid amongst us ; that he had been brought back again, enriched by our liberality, with a variety of articles, which would prove very useful to his countrymen -, and that, besides the 43S C00K*8 VOTAOBS It .. 11 !i two horses which were to remain with him, several new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, which would soon multiply, and furnish a su6icient number for the use of all the islands in the neighbourhood. He then signified to them, that it was my earnest request, in return for all my friendly offices, that they would give him a piece of land to build a house upon, and to raisa proirisions for himself and servants ; adding, that if this could not be obtained for him in Huaheine, either by gift or by purchase, I was deter- mined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there." One of the chiefs immediately expressed himsdf to this effect; " that the whole Island of Huaheine, and every thing in it were mine ; and that, therefore, I might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend.*' Omai was greatly pleased to hear this; thinking, no doubt, that I should be very liberal, and give him enou^. But to offer what it would have been improper to accept, I considered as offering nothing at all ; and, therefore, I now desired that they would not only assign the particular spot, but also the exact quantity of land, which they would allot for the settlement. And, after a short consultation among them- selves, my request was granted by general consent ; and the ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the house where our meeting was held. The extent along the shore of the harbour, was about two hundred yardb ; ^ikid its depth to the foot of the hill somewhat more ; but a proportional part of the hill was included in the grant. This Siusiness being settled to the satisfaction of all parties, I set up a tent ashore, established a post, and erected the observatories. The carpenters of both ships were also set to work to baild a small house for Omai, in which he might secure the Euro- pean commodities that were his property. At tke same tigae, some hands w^arti- culars are added, to complete the view of his domestic establishment. He had picked up, at Otalieite, four or five Toutous ; the two New Zealand youths remained with him; and his brother, nnd some others, joined Sum at Iiuah*)ine ; ROUND THE WORLD 443 SO that his family consisted already of eight or ten persons ; if that can be called a family, to which not a single female, 8S yet, belonged. At present Omai did not seem at all dis- posed to take unto himself a wife. The house that we erected for him was twenty-four feet by eighteen ; and ten feet high. It was settled that, immediately after our de- parture, he should begin to build a large house, after the fashion of his country, one end of which was to be brought over that which we had erected, so as to inclose it entirely, for greater security. In this work, some of the chiefs pro- mised to assist him ; and, if the intended building should cover the ground which he marked out, it will be as large as most upon the island. His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch box ; a fowling-piece ; two pair of pistols ; and two or three swords or cutlasses. The possession of these made him quite happy ; which was my only view in giving him such presents ; for I was al- ways of opinion, that he would have been happier without fire-arms, and other European weapons, than with them ; as such implements of war, in the hands of one, whose pru dent use of them I had some grounds for mistrusting, would rather increase his danger than establish his superiority. After he had got on shore every thing that belonged to him, and was settled in his house, he had most of the officers of both ships, two or three times, to dinner ; and his table was always well supplied with the vtry best provisions that the island produced. Btfore I sailed, I had the following inscription cut upon the outside of his liouse : Georgius Tertius, Ilex, 9 Novembris, 1777. ; a passa<^o through oitlier of the said bays, or by any other way, as the season of the year may render it unsafe for you to remain in hi<^h latitudes, you are to repair to the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtscbatka, in order to refresh your people, and to pass the winter. But, nevertheless, if you find that ynu cannot procure the necessary refreshments at the said port, you are at liberty to go where you shall judge most proper ; taking care, before you depart, to leave with the governor an account of your intended destination, to be delivered to me upon my arrival: and in the spring of the ensuing year, 1770, you are to repair back to the above-mentioned port, endeavour- ing to be there by the 10th of Blay or sooner. If, on your arrival, you receive no ordors from, or account of me, so as to justify your pursuing any other measures than what are pointed out in the before-mentioned instructions, your future proceedings are to be governed by them. You are also to comply with such parts of the said instructions as have not been executed, and are not contrary to these orders. And in case of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these, and the instructions of their lordships into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby required to execute them in the best manner he can. " Given under my hand, on board the Resolution, at Ulietea, the iSth day of November, 1777. J. COOK." " To Captain Charles Clerke.'* While we lay moored to the shore we heeled and scrubbe"'.^. ...;■ . After leaving Bolabola, 1 steered to the northward, cluse- hauled, with the wind between north*east and east ; hardly. ever having it to the southward of east, till after we bad crossed the line, and had got into north latitudes. So that our course, made good, was always to the west of north, and, sometimes, no better than north-west. Though seventeen months had now elapsed since our de- parture from England, during which, we had not, upon the whole, been unprofitably employed, I was sensible, that with regard to the principal object of my instructions, our voyage was, at this time, only beginning ; and, therefore, my attention to every circumstance that might contribute toward our safety and our ultimate success, was now to be called forth anew. With this view 1 had examined into the state of our provisions at the last islands ; and, as soon as I had left them, and got beyond the extent of my former dis- 3 O 2 408 GOOK^t TOTAOEt coveries, I ordered a suryey to be taken of all the boat' swain*8 and carpenter*s stores that ivere in the ships, that I might be fully informed of the quantity, state, and condition of eTery article ; and, by that means, know how to use them to the greatest advantage. Before I sailed from the Society Islands, I lost no oppor- tunity of inquiring of the inhabitants, if there were any islands in a north or north-west direction from them ; but I did not find that they knew of any. In the night, between the 22nd and 23rd, we crossed the line in the longitude of 203** 15' east. Here the variation of the compass was 6" 30' east nearly. On the 24th, about half an hour after day-break, land was discovered bearing north-east by east half east. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be one of those low islands so commoi^ in this ocean ; that is, a nar- row bank of land inclosing the sea within. A few cocoa-nut trees were seen in two or three places ; but, in general, the land had a very barren appearance. At noon, it extended from north-east by east, to south by east half vast, about four miles distant. The wind was at east-south-east ; so that we were under a necessity of making a few boards, to get up to the lee or west side ; where we found from forty to twenty and fourteen fathoms water, over a bottom of fine sand ; the least depth about half a mile from the breakers, and the greatest about one mile. The meeting with soundings determined me to anchor, with a view to try to get some turtles ; for the island seemed to be a likely place to meet with them, and to be without inhabitants. Accordingly we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms ; and then a boat was dis- patched to examine whether it was practicable to land ; of which I had somfe doubt, as the sea broke in a dreadful surf all along the shore. When the boat returned, the oflicer, whom I had entrusted with this examination, reported to me that he could see no place where a boat could land ; but that there was great abundance of fish in the sheal water, without the breakers. . t. 'j; . ROUND THB WORLIi. 460 • At day-break, the next morning, I sent two boats, one from each ship, to search more accurately for a landing- place ; and, at the same time, two others t) fish at a grap- pling near the shore. These last returned about eight o^dock, with upward of two hundred weight of fish. En- couraged by this success, they were dispatched again after breakfast ; and I then went in another boat, to take a view of the coast and attempt landing ; but this I found to be wholly impracticable. Toward noon, the two boats, sent on the same search, returned. The master, who was in that belonging to the Resolution, reported to me, that about a league and a half to the north, was a break in the land, and a channel into the lagoon, consequently, that there was a fit place for landing ; and that he had found the same soundings off this entrance, as we had where we now lay. In consequence of this report the ships weighed anchor, and, after two or three trips, came to again in twenty fa- thoms water, over a bottom of fine dark sand, before a small island that lies at the entrance of the lagoon, and on each side of which there is a channel leading into it ; but only fit for boats. The water in the lagoon itself is all very hallow. ■♦,*■-■ ''•■ ';-^>-.-' ' > "i^.. *■ s;"' ; .: , .i- •:.;/:. u' On the 26th, in the morning, I ordered Capt. Gierke to send a boat, with an officer, to the south-east part of the lagoon, to look for turtles ; and Mr. King and I went each in a boat to the north-east part. I intended to btive gone to the most easterly extremity, but the wind blew too fresh to allow it, and obliged us to land more to leeward, on a sandy flat, where we caught one turtle ; the only one that we saw in the lagoon. We walked, or rather waded, through the water to an island ; wher 3 finding nothing but a few birds, I left it, and proceeded to the laud that bounds the sea to the north-west, leaving Mr. King to observe the sun*s meridian altitude. I found this land to be even more barren than the island I had been upon ; but walking over to the sea-coast, I saw five turtles close to the 470 OOOK^S VOYAGES shore. One of these vie caught^ and the rest made their escape. Not seeing any more, I returned on board, as did Mr. King soon after, without having seen one turtle. We, however, did not despair of getting a supply ; for some of Capt. Clerke*8 officers, who had been ashore on the land to the southward of the channel leading into the lagooui had been more fortunate, and caught several there. In the morning of the 27th, the pinnace and cutter, un- der the command of Mr. King, were sent to the south-east part of the island, within the lagoon ; and the smaller cutter to the northward, where I had been the day before ; both parties being ordered upon the same service, to catch turtles. Capt. Gierke having had some of his people on shore all night, they had been so fortunate as to turn be- tween forty and fifty on the sand, which were brought on board with all expedition this day. And in the afternoon^ the party 1 had sent northward returned with six. They were sent back ag^in, and remained there till we left the is- land ; having in general pretty good success. On the 28th, I landed in company with Mr. Bayly, on the island which lies between the two channels into the lagoon, to prepare the telescopes for observing an approaching eclipse of the sun; which was one great inducement to my anchoring here. About noon, Mr. King returned with one boat and eight turtles; leaving seven behind to be brought by the other boat, whose people were employed in catching more ; and, inthe evening, the same boat was sent with water and provisions for them. Mr. Williamson now went to superintend this duty in the room of Mr. King, who re- muned on board to attend the observation of the eclipse* The next day, Mr. Williamson dispatched the two boats back to the ship, laden with turtles. At the same time, he sent me a message, desiring that the boats might be or- dered round by sea, as he had found a landing-place on the south-east side of the island, where most of the turtles were caught ; so that by sending the boats thither, the trouble ROUND THS WORLD. 471 would be 8ave .^^^ By ) Mr. King f at ) 20 1 f ^PP" ( Myself ) ( 25 87 ) Mr. Bayly and I observed with the large achromatic telescopes, end Mr. King with a reflector. As Mr. Bayly's telescope and mine were of the same magnifying power, I ought not to have .differed so much from him as I did Per- haps it was, in part, if not wholly, owing to a protuberance in the mooii, which escaped my notice, but was seen by both the other gentlemen. I in the afternoon, the boats and turtling party, at the south- east part of the island, all returned on board, except a sea- man belonging to the Discovery, who hp.d been missing two days. There were two of them at firsi who had lost their way ; but disagreeing about the most probable track to bring them back ia their companions, they had separated ; and one of them joined the party, after having been absent twenty^ irent Time, P.M. 472 C00K*8 VOTA€B« ^ four hours, and been in great distress. Not a drop of fresh water could be had, for there is none upon the whole island ; nor was there a single cocoa-nut tree on that part of it. In order to allay his thirst, he had recourse to the singular ex- pedient of killing turtles, and drinking their blood. His mode of refreshing himself, when weary, of which he said he felt the good effects, was equally whimsical. He un« dressed himself, and lay down for some time in the shallow water upon the beach. It was a matter of surprise to every one, bow these two men could contrive to lose themselves. The land over which they had to travel, from the sea-coast to the lagoon, where the boats lay, was not more than three miles across ; nor was there any thing to obstruct their view ; for the country was a flat, with a few shrubs scattered upon it ; and from many parts of it the masts of the vessels could easily be seen. But this was a rule of direction they never once thought of; nor did they recollect in what quarter of the island the ships had anchored ; and they were as much at a loss how to get back to them, or to the party they had straggled from, as if they had just dropped from the clouds. Considering how strange a set of beings the generality of seamen are when on shore, instead of being surprised that these two men should thus lose their way, it is rather to be wondered at that no more of the party were missing. In- deed, one of those who landed with me, was in a similar situation ; but he had sagacity enough to know that the ships lay to leeward, and got on board almost as soon as it was discovered he had been left behind. As soon as Capt. Gierke knew that one of the stragglers was still in this awkward situation, he sent a party in search of him ; but neither the man nor the party having come back, the next morning I ordered two boats into the lagoon, to go different ways, in prosecution of the search. Not long after Capt. Clerke's party returned with their lost companion ; and my boats having now no object left, I called them back by signal. This poor fellow must have suffered far greater ROUND THR WORLD. 473 distress than the other straggler ; not only as having been lost a longer time, but a^ we found that he had been too squeamish to drink turtle^s blood. Having some cocoa-nuts and yams on board, in a state of ▼egetation, I ordered them to be planted on the little island where we had observed the eclipse, and some melon-seeds were sown in another place. I also left on the little island a bottle, containing the following inscription ; Georgius Tertius, Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777. 1^ r Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. "*^^^ i Discovery, Car. Gierke, Pr. On the 1st of January, 1778, I sent boats to bring on board all our parties from the land, and the turtles they had caught. Before this was completed it was late in the after- noon ; so that I did not think proper to sail till next morning. We got at this island, for both ships, about three hundred turtles, weighing, one with another, about ninety or a hundred pounds. They were all of the green kind ; and perhaps as good as any in the world. We also caught, with hook and line, as much fish as we could consume during our stay. The soil of this island, in some places, is light and black, eyidently composed of decayed vegetables, the dung of birds, and sand. There are other places, again, where nothing but marine productions, such as broken coral stones and shells are to be seen. These are deposited la long narrow ridges, lying in a parallel direction with the sea coast, not unlike a ploughed field ; and must have been thrown up by the waves, though at this time they do not reach within a mile of these places. This seems to furnish an incontestible proof that the island has been produced by accessions from the sea, and is in a state of increase ; for not only the broken pieces of coral, but many of the shells, are too heavy and large to have been brought by any birds, from the beach to the places where they now lie. Not a drop of fresh water was any where found, though frequently dug for. We met with several ponds of salt water, which had no c. V. 20. 3 P 474 cook's voyages visible communication viith the sea, and must, therefore, in all probability, be filled by filtering through the sand at high tides. One of the lost men found some salt on the south-east part of the island. But though this was an ar- ticle of which we were in want, a man who could lose him- self, as he did, and not know whether he was travelling east, west, north, or south, was not to be depended upon as a fit guide to conduct us to the place. There were not the smallest traces of any human being having ever been here before us ; and, indeed, should any one be so unfortunate as to be accidentally driven upon the island, or left there, it is hard to say, that he could be able to prolong existence. There is, indeed, abundance of birds and fish ; but no visi- ble means of allaying thirst, nor any vegetable that ooUld supply the place of bread, or correct the bad effects of an animal diet ; which, in all probability, would soon prove fatal alone. On the few cocoa>trees upon the island, the number of which did not exceed thirty, very little fruit was found; and, in general, what was found, was either not fully grown, or had the juice salt, or brackish. So that a ship touching here, must expect nothing but fish and turtles ; and of these an abundant supply may be depended upon. On some parts of the land were a few low trees ; under which sat infinite numbers of a new species of tern, or egg- bird. These are black above and white below, with a white arch on the forehead, and are rather larger than the common noddy. Most of them had lately hatched their young, which lay under the old ones upon the bare ground. The rest had eggs ; of which they only lay one, larger than that of a pigeon, bluish and speckled with black. There were also many common boobies ; a sort that are almost like a gannet ; and a sooty or chocolate-coloured one, with a white belly. To tl^is list we may add mcn-of-war-birds ; tropic- birds ; curlews ; sand -pipers ; a small land-bird like a hedge-sparrow ; land-crabs ; small lizards ; and rats. As we kept our Christmas here, I called this discovery ROUND TIIR WORLD. 475 Christmas Island. I judge it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference. It seemed to be of a semicircular form ; or like the moon in the last quarter, the two horns being the north and south points ; which bear from each other nearly north by east, and south by west, four or Ave leagues distant. Christmas Island, like most others in this ocean, is bounded by a reef of coral-rocks, which extends but a little way from the shore. Farther out than this reef, on the west side, is a bank of fine sand, extending a mile into the sea. On this bank is good anchorage, in any depth between eighteen and thirty fathoms. In less than the first-mentioned depth, the reef would be too near ; and in more than the last, the edge of the bank would not be at a sufficient distance. During the time we lay here, the wind blew constantly a fresh gale at east, or east by south, except one or two days. We had, always, a great swell from the northward,' which broke upon the reef in a prodigious surf. We had found this swell be- fore we came to the island ; and it continued for some days after we left it. On the 2nd of January, at day-break, we weighed anchor, and resumed our course to the north ; having fine weather, and a gentle breeze at east, and east-south-east, till we got into the latitude of ?<> 45' north, and the longitude of 2050 east, where we had one calm day. This was suc- ceeded by a north-east by east, and east-north-east wind. At first it blew faint, but freshened as we advanced to the north. In the morning of the 18th, an island made its ap- pearance, bearing north-east by east ; and, soon after, we saw more land bearing north, and entirely detached from the former. Both had the appearance of being high land. On the 10th, at sun rise, the island first seen, bore east, several leagues distant. This being directly to windward, which prevented our getting near it, I stood for the other, which we could reach ; and, not long after, discovered a third island in the direction of west-north-west, as far distant 3 P 2 476 cook's voyages as land could be seen. We had now a fine breeze at east by north ; and I steered for the east end of the second island ; which, at noon, extended from north htilf east, to west- north-west a quarter west, the nearest part being about two leagues distant. At this time, we were in some doubt whether or no the land before us was inhabited ; but this doubt was soon cleared up, by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward the ships. I immediately brought *o, to give them time to join us. They had from three to six men each ; and, on their approach, we were agreeably sur- prised to find that they spoke the language of Otaheite, and of the other islands we had lately visited. It required very little address to get them to come along- side; but no in- treaties could prevail upon any of them to come on board. I tied some brass medals to a rope, and gave them to those in one of the canoes, who, in return, tied some small mack- erel to the rope as an equivalent. This was repeated ; and some small nails, or bits of iron, which they valued more than any other article, were given them. For these they exchanged more fish and a sweet potatoe ; a sure sign that they had some notion of bartering ; or, at least, returning one present for another. They had nothing else in their canoes, except some large gourd shells, and a kind of fish- ing net ; but one of them offered for sale the piece of stuff that he wore round his waist, after the manner of i\\f, other islands. These people were of a brown colour ; and, though of the common size, were stoutly made. There was little difference in the casts of their colour, but a considerable variation in their features ; some of their visages not being unlike those of Europeans. The hair of most of them was crept pretty short ; others had it flowing loose ; and, with a few, it was tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. In all it seemed naturally black ; but most of them had stained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Islanders, with some stuff which gave it a brown or burnt colour. In general they wore their beards. They had no ornaments about their per- ROUND THE WORLD. 477 sons, nor did we observe that their ears were perforated ; but some were punctured on the hands or near tlie groin, thougli in a small degree ; and the bits of cloth which they wore, were curiously stained with red, black, and white colours. They seemed very mild, and had no arms of any kind, if we except some small stones, which they had evi- dently brought for their own defence ; and these they threw overboard when they found that they were not wanted. Seeing no signs of an anchoring-place at this eastern ex- treme of the island, I bore away to leeward, and ranged along the south-east side, at a distance of half a league from the shore. As soon as we made sail the canqes left us ; but otLers came off as we proceeded along the coast, bringing with them roasting pigs, and some very fine potatoes, which they exchanged, as the others bad done before, for whatever was offered to them. Several small pigs were purchased for a sixpenny nail ; so that we again found our- selves in a land of plenty ; and just at the time when the turtle, which we had so fortunately procured at Christmas Island, were nearly expended. We passed several villages ; some seated near the sea, and otb jrs farther up the country. The inhabitants of all of them crowded to the shore, and col- lected themselves on the elevated places to view the ships. The land upon this side of the island rises in a gentle slope, from the sea to the foot of the mountains, which occupy the centre of the country, except at one place near the east end, where they rise directly from the sea, and seemed to be formed of nothing but stone, or rocks lying in horizontal strata. We saw no wood but what was up in the interior part of the island, except a few trees about the villages ; near which, also, we could observe severa^ plantations of plantains and sugar-canes, and spots that seemed cultivated for roots. We continued to sound, without striking ground, with a line of fifty fathoms. Night put a stop to farther re- searches ; and we spent it standing off and on. The next 478 COOK*S VOYAGES mornings we stood in for the land, and were met by se- yeral canoes filled with people ; some of whom took courage and ventured on board. In the course of my several voy- ages I never before met with the natives of any place so much astonished, as these people were upon entering the ship. Their eyes were continually flying from object to object ; the wildness of their looks and gestures fully ex- pressing their entire ignorance about every thing they saw, and strongly marking to us, that, till now, they had never been visited by Europeans, nor been acipiainted with any of our commodities, except iron ; which, however, it was plain, they had only heard of, or had known it in some small quantity, brought to them at some distaut period. They seemed only to understand that it was a substance, much better adapted to the purposes of cutting or of boring holes, than any thing their own country produced. They asked for it by the name of hamaite, probably referring to ' some instrument, in the making of which iron could be use- fully employed ; for they applied that name to the blade of a knife, though we were certain that they had no idea of that particular instrument ; nor could they at all handle it properly. For the same reason they frequently called iron by the name of toe, which, in their language, signifies a hatchet, or rather a kind of adze. On asking them what iron was, they immediately answered '^ We do not know ; you know what ii; is, and we only understand it as toe, or hamaite." When we shewed them some beads, they asked first, ** What they were ; and then whether they should eat them.*' But on their being told that they were to be hung in their ears, they returned them as useless. They w . . e equally indifferent as to a looking glass, which was offered them, and returned it for the same reason ; but sufficiently expressed their desire for hamaite and toe, which they wished might be very large. Plates of earthen- ware, chma- cups, and other such things, were so new to them, that they asked if they were made of wood ; but wished to have some, ROUND THE WORLD. 479 that th^y might carry them to be looked at on shore. They were, in some respects, naturally well bred ; or at least fearful of giving offence, asking whether they should sit down, whether they might spit upon the deck, and the like. Some of them repeated a long prayer before they came on board ; and others afterwards sung and made motions with their hands, such as we had been accustomed to see in the dances of the islands we had lately visited. At first, on entering the ship, they endeavoured to steal every thing they came near; or rathe r to take it openly, as what we either should not re- sent, or not hinder. We soon convinced them of their mistake ; and if they, after eome time, became less active in appropriating to themselves whatever they took a fancy to, it was bcause they found that we kept a watchful eye over them. At nine o'clock, being pretty near the shore, I sent three armed boats, under the command of Lieut. Williamson, to look for a landing-place, and for fresh water. I ordered him, that if he should find it necessary to land in search of the latter, not to sufier more than one man to go with him out of the boats. Just as they were putting oiF from the ship, one of the natives having stolen the butcher^s cleaver, leap- ed overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened to the shore, the boats pursuing him in vain. While the boats were occupied in examining the coast, we stood on and off with the ships, waiting for their return. About noon, Mr Williamson came back, and reported that he had seen a large pond behind a beach near one of the vil- lages, which the natives told him contained fresh water ; and that there was anchoring-ground before it. He also re- ported that he had attempted to land in another place., but was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in great numbers, attempted to take away the oars, musquets, and, in short, every thiiig that they could lay hold of ; and pressed so thick upon him, that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. But this unhappy cir- 480 cook's voyages oumstance I did not know till after we had left the island ; so that all my measures were directed as if nothing of the kind had happened. Mr. Williamson told me, that after the man fell, his countrymen took him up, carried him oiT, and then retired from the boat ; but still made signals for our people to land, which he declined. It did not appear to Mr. Williamson, that the natives had any design to kill, or even to hurt any of his party ; but they seemed excited by mere curiosity, to get from them what they had, being at the same time, ready to give in return, any thing of their own. The ships being stationed between three and four o'clock, I went ashore with three armed boats, and twelve marines, to examine the water, and to try the disposition of the inha- bitants, several hundreds of whom were assembled on a sandy beach before the village ; behind it was a narrow valley, the bottom of which was occupied by the piece of water. The very instant I leaped on shore, the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that humble pos- ture, till, by expressive signs, I prevailed upon them to rise : they then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to me, with plantain trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen practised on such occa- sions, at the Society and other islands ; and a long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which others of the as- sembly sometimes joined. I expressed my acceptance of their proffered friendship, by giving them, in return, such presents as I had brought with me from the ship for that purpose. When this introductory business was finished, I stationed a guard upon the beach, and got some of the natives to conduct me to the water, which proved to be very good, and in a proper situation for our purpose. It was so considerable, that it may be called a lake ; and it extended farther up the country than we could see. Having satisfied myself about this point, and about the peaceable disposition of the natives, I returned on board; and then gave orders ROUND THE WORLD. 481 that every thing should be in readiness for landing and filling our water-casks in the morning ; when I went ashore with the people employed in that service, having a party of marines with us for a guard, who were stationed on the beach. As soon as we landed, a trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes, which the people of the island gave us in exchange for nails and pieces of iron, formed into something like chissels. We met with no obstruction in watering ; on the contrary, the natives assisted our men in rolling the casks to and from the pool ; and readily performed whatever we required. Every thing going on thus to my satisfaction, and considering my presence on the spot as unnecessary, I left the command to Mr. Williamson, who had landed with me, and made an excursion into the country, up the valley, accompanied by Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Webber ; the for- mer of whom was well qualified to describe with the pen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, every thing we might meet with worthy of observation. A numerous train of natives followed us ; and one of them, whom I had dis- tinguished for his activity in keeping the rest in order, I made choice of as our guide. This man, from time to time, proclaimed our approach ; and every one, whom we met, fell prpstrate on the ground, and remained in that position till we had passed. This, as 1 afterwards understood, is the mode of paying their respect to their own great chiefs. As we ranged down the coast from the east, in the ships, we had observed at every village one or more elevated white objects, like pyramids or rather obelisks ; and one of these, whieh I guessed to be at least fifty feet high, was very con- spicuous from the ship's anchoring station, and seemed to be at no great distance up this valley. To have a nearer inspection of it, was the principal object of my walk. Our guide perfectly understood that we wished to be conducted to it. But it happened to be so placed, that we could not get at it, being separated from us by the pool of water. How- ever, there being another of the same kind within our reach, c. V. 21. Q q w^> t m 482 cook's voyages about half a mile off, upon our side of the Valley, we set out to visit that. The moment we got to it, we saw that it stood in a burying-ground, or morai ; the resemblance of which, in many respects, to those we were so well acquainted with at other islands in this ocean, and particularly Otaheite, could not bill strike us ; and we also soon found, that the several parts that compose it, were called by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable extent, surrounded by a wall of stone, about four feet hi^h. The space in- closed was loosely paved with smaller stones ; and at one end of it, stood what I call the pyramid, but, in the language of the island, is named henananoo ; which appeared to be an exact model of the larger one, observed by us from the ships. It was about four feet square at the base, and about twenty feet high. The four sides were composed of small poles interwoven with twigs and branches, thus forming an indifferent wicker-work, hollow or open within, from bottom to top. It seemed to be rather in a ruinous state ; but there were sufficient remaining marks, to shew that it had origi- nally been covered with a thin light grey cloth ; which these people, it should seem, consecrate to religious purposes ; as we could see a good deal of it hanging in different parts of the morai, and some of it had been forced upon me when I first landed. On each side of the pyramid were long pieces of wicker-work, called hereanee, in the same ruinous condi- tion ; with two slender poles, inclining to each other, at one corner, where some plantains were laid upon a board, fixed at the height of five or six feet. This they called herairemy, and informed us, that the fruit was an offering to their god, which makes it agree exactly with the whatta of Otaheite. Before the henananoo were a few pieces of wood, carved in- to something like human figures, which, with a stone near two feet high, covered with pieces of cloth, called hoho, and con rated to Tongarooa, who is the god of these people, still more and more reminded us of what we used to meet with in the morals of the islands we had lately left. Adjoin- ROUND THE WORLD. 483 iiig to these, on the outside of the morai, was a small shed, no bigger than a dog-kennel, which they called hareepa- hoo ; and before it was a grave, where, as we were told, the remains of a woman lav. m On the farther side of the area of the moral, stood a house or shed, about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each end being narrower, and about ten feet high. This, which, though much longer, was lower than their common dwelling places, we were informed, was called hemanaa. The entrance into it was at the middle of the side, which was in the morai. On the farther side of thi^t house, opposite the entrance, stood two wooden images, cut out of one piece, with pedestals, in all about three feet high ; nei- ther very indifferently designed or executed. These were said to be Eatooa no Veheina, representations of goddesses. On the head of one of them was a carved helmet, not unlike those worn by the ancient warriors ; and on that of the other, a cylindrical cap, resembling the head-dress at Otaheite, called tomou ; and both of them had pieces of cloth, tied about the loins, and hanging a considerable way down. At the side of each, was also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the cloth hung on them, in the same manner ; and be- tween, or before, the pedestals, lay a quantity of fern, in a heap. It was obvious, that this had been deposited there, piece by piece, and at different times ; for there was of it, in all states, from what was quite decayed, to what was still fresh and green. In the middle of the house, and before the two images, was an oblong space, inclosed by a low edging of stone, and covered with shreds of the cloth so often mentioned. This, on enquiry, we found was the grave of seven chiefs, whose names were enumerated, and the place was called Heneene. We had met already with so many striking instances of re- semblance, between the burying-place we were now visiting, and those of the islands we had lately come from in the south pacific, that we had little doubts in our minds, that the re- 3 Q S 484 COOK*S VOYAGES semblance existed also, in the ceremonici^ practised here, and particularly in the horrid one of offering human sacrifices. Our suspicions were too soon confirmed, by direct evidence. For, on comiui^ out of the house, just on one side of the en- trance, we saw a small square place, and another still less, near it ; and on asking*, what these were, our guide im- mediately informed us, tlat in the one was buried a man who had been sacrificed ; and in the other, a hog, which had been made an ofTering to the divinity. At a little distance from these, near the middle of the morai, were three more of thes« square inclosed places, with two pieces of carved wood at each, and upon them a heap of fern. These, we were told, were the graves of three chiefs ; and before them was an oblong, inclosed space, to which our conductor also gave the name of Tangata taboo ; telling us so explicitly, that we could not mistake his meaning, that three human sacrifices had been buried there ; that is, one at the funeral of each chief. It was with most sincere concern, that I could trace, on such undoubted evidence, the prevalence of these bloody rites, throughout this immense ocean, amongst people disjoined by such a distance, and even ignorant of each others existence, though so strongly marked as origi- nally of the same nation. It was no small addition to this concern, to reflect, that every appearance led us to believe, that the barbarous practice was very general here. The is- land seemed to abound with such places of sacrifice as this which we were now visiting, and which appeared to be one of the most inconsiderable of them ; being far less conspi- cuous than several others which we had seen, as we sailed along the coast, and particularly than that on the opposite side of the water, in this valley, the white henananoo, or pyramid, which, we were now almost sure, derived its colour only from pieces of the consecrated cloth laid over it. After we had examined, very carefully, every thing that was to be seen about the morai, and Mr. Webber had taken drawings of it, and of the adjoining country, we re- ROtNO THE WORLD. 485 > turned by a different rout. I found a great crowd assem- bled at the beach ; and a brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and roots, going on there, with the greatest good order ; though I did not observe any particular person, who took the lead amongst the rest of his countrymen. At noon, 1 went on board to dinner, and then sent Mr. King to com- mand the party ashore. He was to have gone upon that service in the morning, but was then detained in the ship, to make lunar observations, in the afternoon I landed again, accompanied by Capt. Gierke, with a view to make another excursion up the country. But, before this could be put in execution, the day was too far spent ; so that 1 laid aside my intention for the present, and it so happened that I had not another opportunity. At sun-set, I brought every body on board ; having pro- cured, in the course of the day, nine tons of water ; and, by exchanges, chiefly for nails and pieces of iron, about seventy or eighty pigs, a few fowls, a quantity of potatoes, and a few plantains, and taro roots. These people merited our best commendations, in this commercial intercourse, never once attempting to cheat us, either ashore, or along- side the ships. Some of them, indeed, as already men- tioned, at first betrayed a thievish disposition ; or rather, they thought, that they had a right to every thing they could lay their hands upon ; but they soon laid aside a conduct, which, we convinced them, they could not persevere in with impunity. Amongst the articles which they brought to barter this day, we could not help taking notice of a particular sort of cloak and cap, which, even in countries where dress is more par- ticularly attended to, might be reckoned elegant. The first are nearly of the size and shape of the short cloaks worn by the women in England, and by the men in Spain, reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosely before. The ground of them is a net- work, upon which the most beautiful i*ed and yellow feathers are so closely fixed, that the surface might 486 COOK*S TOY AGES be compared to the thickest and richest velvet, which they resemble, both as to the feel, and the glossy appearance. The manner of varying the mixture is very different ; some having triangular spaces of rod and yellow, alternately ; others, a kind of crescent ; and some that were entirely red, had a broad yellow border, which made them appear, at some distance, exactly like a scarlet cloak edged with gold lace. The brilliant colours of the feathers, in those that happened to be new, added not a little to their fine appear- ance ; and we found, that they were in high estimation with their owners ; for they would not, at Brst, part with one of them for any thing that we offered, asking no less a price than a musket. However, some were afterwards purchased for very large nails. Such of them as were of the best sort, were scarce ; and it should seem, that they are only used on the occasion of some particular ceremony, or di' srsion ; for the people who had them, always made some gesticula- tions, which we had seen before used by those who sung, f The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the middle part, or crest, sometimes of a hand's breadth ; and it sits very close upon the head, having notches to admit the ears. It is a frame of twigs and osiers, covered with a net work, into which are wrought feathers, in the same manner as upon the cloaks, though rather closer, and less diversi- fied ; the greater part being red, with some black, yellow, or green stripes on the sides, following the curve direction of the crest. These, probably, complete the dress, with the cloaks ; for the natives, sometimes, appeared in both together. •; , .: >>, In the night, and all the morning, on the 22d, it rained almost continually. The wind was at south-east, south- south-east, and south ; which brought in a short, chopping sea, and as there were breakers little more than two cables length from the stern of our ship, her situation wbs none of the safest. The surf broke so high against the shore, that we could not land in our boats ; but the day was not wholly imt HOUND THB WORLD. 487 !«K= lost ; for the natives ventured in their canoes, to bring off to the ships, hogs and roots, ivhich they bartered as before. One of our visitors, on this occasion, who offered some fish hooks to sale, vtras observed to have a very small parcel, tied to the string of one of them, which he separated with great care, and reserved for himself, when he parted with the hook. Being asked what it was, he pointed to his belly, and spoke something of its being dead ; at the same time saying, it was bad ; as if he did not wish to answer any more questions about it. On seeing him so anxious to con- ceal the contents of this parcel, he was requested to open it, which he did with great reluctance, and some difficulty, as it was wrapped up in many folds of cloth. We found that it contained a thin piece of human flesh, and that these people eat their enemies. Several canoes came off in the morning, and followed us as we stood out to sea, bartering their roots and other arti- cles. Being very averse to believe these people to be cani- bals, notwithstanding the suspicious circumstance which bad happened the day befoi e, we took occasion now to make some more inquiries about this. A small wooden instrument, beset with sharks teeth, had been purchased ; and from its resemblance to the saw or knife used by the New Zealanders, to dissect the bodies of their enemies, it was suspected to have the same use here. One of the natives being asked about this, immediately gave the name of the instrument, and told us, that it was used to cut out the fleshy part oi the belly, when any person was killed. This explained and confirmed the. circumstance above-mentioned, of the person pointing to his belly. The man, however, from whom we now had this information, being asked, if his countrymen eat the part thus cut out, he denied it strongly, but, upon the question being repeated, shewed some degree of fear, and swam to his canoe. Just before he reached it, he noiade signs, as he had done before, expressive of the use of the instrument. And an old man, who sat foremost in the ca noe, •aJ: ■—"-•■■■^-■"— — -^f-TC >tifii"WiTiiii.rii.iiii1i«iitirrm