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Un des symboies suivants apparaitra sur la derniAre image de cheque microfiche, seion Ie cas: Ie symbols — ^ signifie "A SUiVRE", Ie symbols V signifie "FIN". IMaps. plates, charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre film*s A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul ciichA, 11 est film* A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas. en prenant Ie nombre d'images nAcessaira. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 S 6 'mimm'immimt TI SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE WEST COAST OF NOKTH AMEKICA, ^^ 4 ' t "••>^. ^:- I SAILING DIRECTIONS FOE j THE WEST COAST OF NOKTH AMEKICA. EMBBACDfO THE COASTS OF CENTEAt AMEKICA, CALIFOKNIA OREGON. FUCA STRAIT, PTOET SOUND, ^aCZ BLAND AND THE ISLANDS AND ROCKS OFF THE COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA AND CAUTORNIA. WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAININO VARIOUS EEKABKS ON THE WINDS. TIDES. CUBBENK. &c. CAREFULLY COMPILED ^ROM THE MOST RECENT SURVEYS MADE BY ORDER OF THE BRITISH UNITED STATES. SPANISH, AND FRENCH GOVERNMENTS LONDON: JAMES IMRAY, 102, MINOR^ES, 18v3. liKKAlA. i, Page Line from 6 7 20 , 24 123 4 103 17 & 18 om bottom. For Read 10 delete " after life. 10 insert " after point. Gulf of Fonesca Gulf of Fonseca. River Toutonnis River Toutounis. so much more so so much so. i •"Kf 1 4i PREFACE i t. a. lis. f The rapid development of the resources of California and Oregon, and the increase of commerce with the countries on the sea-board of Central America, have had the effect of raising into importance many ports which, but a few years since, afforded only an occasional shelter to whalers. Hitherto, there has been but little call for a work of this nature, but as the countries of Western America are daily becoming of more commercial value, and the ports are visited less as harbours of occasional shelter than as places of trade, a work affording some information to the seaman, however scanty, of the ports he is about to visit, has become necessary. In the compilation of this work considerable difficulty has been experienced, from the want of information that could be considered authentic and trustworthy, no complete survey having yet been made of the West Coast of North America, although detached portions of it have been from time to time examined by the various expeditions sent out for that purpose by the governments of Great Britain, the United States, France, and Spain. From the works resulting from these examinations we have obtained much information, although it cannot in every case be considered so satisfactory as we might wish, still, through their means, we have, to some extent, become acquainted with many parts of which we were previously in entire ignorance; we have also embodie^ much private information with the object of making the work as complete and serviceable as possible. The information thus brought together, it will be seen, cannot be conh^cted so well as might be desired, seeing that 27()i0 ir PREFACE. each observer had either a specific portion of coast to examine, or only took a general survey of it without entering into details. All the infor- mation, however, which might be useful to the mariner has been collec- ted together, and it only remains for us to add that we shall avail our- selves, in future editions, of any hydrographical information that may tend to the improvement of this work, and shall always thankfully receive communications from correspondents which may contribute to its future usefulness. Hi Several of the ports of Central America have been examined by Sir Edward Belcher, from whose work we have obtained many remarks ; and a survey of the coasts of California and Oregon is now in progress, by order of the United States Government, the completion of which will tend still further to improve our knowledge of these countries. Fuca Strait, Admiralty Inlet, and Puget Sound, have been so well examined by Vancouver, Commander Wilkes, Captain Kellett, and others, that we believe but little remains to add to our acquaintance with these extensive inland waters. It is also right to mention that the pages of the Nautical Magazine have materially assisted us in the completion of the work. » only nfor- >llec- our- may fully to its yr Sir irks ; »,by 1 will Fuca edby t we nsive itical TABLE OF CONTENTS. A Coasts of Cbntral America, &c. FAuM 1 tf General Remarks, 1 ; Gulf of Panama, 8 ; Gulf of San Miguel, Bay of Panama, 0; Quibo or Coiba Island, 12; Hicarons, 13; Bahia Honda,' Pueblo Nuevo, 15 ; Contreras Islands, Secas Islands, &c., 16 ; Gulf of Dulce, Gulf of Nicoya, Port Herradura, 17 ; Caldcras BIuiF, Arenas Point, Cape Blanco, 18 ; Nigretas Islands, 10 ; Gulf of Papagayo, Port Culebra, 21 ; Tomas and Salinas Bays, 23 ; Port San Juan, 24 ; Realejo, 25 ; Gulf of Fonseca or Conchagua, 20 ; Conchagua or San Carlos de la Union, Port Libertad, 31 ; Sonsonate Road, 32 ; Port Istapa or Ystapa, Gulf of Techuantepec, 84; Santa Cruz, Island Tangolatangola, 35; Bay of Bamba, 37 ; Bay of Rosario, 30 ; Acapulco, 41 ; Sihuatanejo or Chequetan, 44; Point and River Tejupan, Manzanilla Port, Cape Corrientes, 46 ; Las Tres Marias, Prince George's Island, 48 ; San Bias, 60; Town ofTepic, 62; General Remarks on the Coast, 63; Mazatlan, 60; Guaymas, 62. CuAST OF California 65 1 ■ *i General Remarks, 66 ; Bay of La Paz, Mission of Loretto, 68 ; La Bahia Eflcondida, 60 ; Moleje Bay, 70 ; Rio Colorado, 72 ; Cape St. Lucas, 74 ; Magdalena Bay. 76; San Bartholomew, 70; Cedros Island, Play a Maria Bay, San Quentin, 80 ; San Uiego, 81 ; San Juan, 84 ; Santa Barbara, 86 ; Bay of San Pedro, 87 ; Point Conception, 88 ; Bays of St. Luis Obispo and Esteros, 80 ; Carmel Bay, Monterey Bay, 01 ; Direc- tions for Monterey Bay, 03 ; San Francisco, 07 ; Bay of San Pablo, 100 ; Sausalito or Whaler's Harbour, Bay of Sooson, 101 ; Capt. Beechey's direc- tions for Harbour of San Francisco, 102 ; Remarks by Capt. John Hall on Harbour of San Francisco, 107 ; Richardson's Remarks on Harbour of San Francisco, 108 ; Buoys in the Bay of San Francisco, 100 ; Point de los Reyes, 110; Farallones, 111 ; Bodega Bay, 112; Cape Mendocino, 116 ; Humboldt Bay, 116; Trinidad Bay, 117; Port St. George, 120. CoAsx of Obboon 122 General Remarks, 122; River Toutounis or Rogue's River, Cape Orford or Blanco, Cape Gregory or Arago, 123; Cape Perpetua, 124; Cape Lookout, Columbia River, 124 ; Cape Disappointment, 126 ; Point Adams, 127 ; Astoria, Fort Vancouver, 128 ; Directions for Columbia River, 131; Shoalwatcr Bay, &c., 136; Gray's Harbour, 137; Cape Grenville, 130 ; Cape Classet, Tatoochc Islets, 140. IV CONIENI.S. FiJCA Stiiait and Puokt Sound rAnR. 142 Fuca Strait, 142 ; Cape Classet, Neeah Bay, 144 ; Callam Bay, 146 ; Cres- cent Bay, 147; Point Angelos, 148; Port Angeles, 149; Dungcness Bay, 151 ; Budd's Harbour, Port Discovery, 154 ; Port San Juan, 157 ; Sooke Inlet, Pedder Bay, Royal Bay, 158 ; Esquimalt Harbour, Victoria Har- bour, 150; Sailing Directions, 160; Admiralty Inlet, Port Townsend, 163; Port Orchard, 165; Puget Sound, 166; Nisqually, 167; Cose Inlet, Mounts Rainier and St. Helen's, Hood's Canal, 160 ; Whidbey Is]nn<1, 171; Bonilla Island, Fidalgo Island, 173; Possession Sound, Cnmano Island, Penn Cove, 173 ; Haro and Roaario Straits, 175 ; Bellingham and PadillaBays, Birch Bay, 176. Vancouvbr Island 178 Geneneral Remarks, 178 ; Nitinat Sound, Clayoquot Sound, 180 ; Nootka Sound, 181; Friendly Cove, 182; Woody Point, Cape Scott, 184; Beaver Harbour, 185. Islands and Rocks off the Coasts of Central /America and Cali- fornia ......... 186 Cocos Island, 186; Chatham Bay, 188; Wafer Bay, 189; Malpelo Island, Gallego Island, 100; Clipperton Rock, 101; Revillagigedo Islands, 103; St. Benedicto Island, Roca Partida, 104 ; Clarion Island, Alijos Rocks, Guadeloupe Island, 195. APPENDIX. Gulf of Tehuantepec . . . . . . . . 197 Winds in the Pacific ........ 202 West Coast of Mexico . . . . . . . .211 Passages to and from various Ports in the Pacific .... 222 Monterey to the (>)lumbia River ....... 226 Bearings and Distances, with the variation of the Compass, from San Francisco to Monterey, and from San Francisco to the Columbia River . . 231 $ 142 178 ^' SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR IDE ^\EST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 186 *,* The Bearings are all by Comfass, < nless when otherwise ex- pressed. The Soundings are reduced co the level of Low Water, Spring Tides. It has recently been ordered by the LoAds Commissioners of the Admiralty, that the word " Port" is to be used instead of the word " Larboard," in all H. M. Vessels, in consequence of the similarity existing between the words Larboard and Starboard. THE COASTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA, Sec, 197 202 211 222 226 231 '1 Before giving a nautical description of the Bays and Harbours of Central America, a few remarks on the geography and natural features of the country, will not be considered out of place. Central America comprehends all the territory lying between Mexico on the north, and the Isthmus of Darien, or Panama, on the south. Its entire length is 1,000 miles, and its breadth varies from upwards of 100 miles to 300 ; giving an area of 200,000 square miles, or more than tveice the extent of Great Britain. Situated in the torrid zone, between 8° and 18° N. latitude, and 80° and 90° W. longitude, it at once separates the Atlantic from the Pacific Ocean, and unites the continents of North and South America ; a position as important commercially, as it is geographically remarkable and unique. It includes the fine independent states of Guatemala, Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica ; and also British Honduras, and the Mosquito Shore. It is bounded on the north by Mexico ; on the west and south by the Pacific ; and on the east by the Caribbean S«ai and the Bay of Honduras. B /^ 2 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR The five states of Central America nearly correspond, at the present time, with the * Intendencias,' as they existed under Spanish Colonial rule. Their boundaries are pretty clearly defined, and vary but little. They are subdivided into Provinces, Departments, and Districts ; the latter applying to the less peopled, though often extensive tracts, covered with almost impenetrable forests. The state of Guatemala is by far the most extensive of the five. It includes a considerable and populous highland district to the north, named * Los Altos de Quesaltenango ;* and to the eastward, vast territories, such as those of Vera Paz and El Peten, which are but thinly inhabited. Altogether it occupies full one-third of the whole country. It has also the largest population, and far surpasses the other states in importance. Its growing trade is even now considerable. It is principally carried on with the English. The chief export, which is cochineal, amounted in 1846 to 9,037 " surrones," or bales of 150 lbs. each, valued at £211,804 13*. 9d. The state of Salvador is situated on the western coast. Its climate is hot, but more healthy than that of the eastern shores — perhaps because the land is better cleared and cultivated. The chief product of this state is indigo, which used to be extensively cultivated and at one time rivalled, in the number of seroons exported, the cochineal of Guatemala. But so much has it diminished, that in 1846 the number of bales exported did not exceed 1,500, in value about £10,000. The city of San Salvador, its capital, is only a few miles distant from the Pacific Ocean. Its commerce still surpasses that of most towns in Central America. And its political influence, taking as it does the lead in all liberal movements, is considerable. During a certain period it was the seat of the Federal Government, and, like Washington, it had at that time a certain territory around the city, distinguished as the Federal District. The state of Honduras takes its name from the Bay of Honduras, signifying depths, which forms its northern boundary. The first navi- gators so denominated it, because they veith difficulty obtained any soundings in it. The surface of the ground is in this state even more generally uneven than elsewhere. Its population is scanty in com- parison with the two former states ; and, like Guatemala, it still com- prises vast districts of virgin forests, partially peopled by wild Indians. The climate, like that of the other states, is varied, being generally temperate in the interior, which is notable for its mines, and hot near the coasts, which abound with rivers, from the banks of which much mahogany and sarsaparilla are taken. Comayagua, the capital, is still a city of some importance, though said to have been much n^ire so formerly. This state possesses two sea-port towns, Truxillo and Unioa, THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. t which were active as military and commercial depots of Spain, but they are now fallen into comparative decay. The state of Nicaragua is exceedingly fertile, and generally salubri- ous; but, notwithstanding it possesses several advantages over Hon- duras, it is but little more populous. This may partly be accounted for by the absence of any leading branch of industry, or any considerable activity in its commerce, but still more by its frequent civil wars. Ih a land surpassingly volcanic, this state is pre-eminently so. The very roads, in some parts, sound hollow under the hoofs of the mules or horses. Leon, the capital, and Granada are large cities, and once enjoyed great wealth and commercial prosperity ; but, like all chief towns in Central America, they have suffered much from crime and consequent internal disorganization, as well as from civil wars, political commotions, and misrule. These cities, from the highest rank in repute and influence, are now reduced to little better than heaps of ruins, scantily inhabited, and, where best, affording abundant evidence of both earlier and more recent devastations. Leon, on the Lake of Managua, often called the Lake of Leon, is said to have contained at one time 33,000 people. It is now reduced to less than half that number. Granada may still have about 13,000 inhabitants, It is beautifully situated on the borders of the Lake of Nicaragua. The town of Nicaragua, about 36 miles south- east of Granada, though inferior in size and importance, gives its name to the state and the lake. Like Granada, it is advantageously situated on its banks, not far from the populous island of Ometepe, which is in the lake, and contains an active volcano. Great interest at present attaches to this state and its waters, in connection with the long formed and often talked-of project of connecting the two oceans at this point, which is now about to be put to the test of experiment, if not actually to be realized. The Central America state which at present enjoys the greatest degree of tranquillity and political prosperity, is Costa Rica. Its isolated position on the narrower part of the Isthmus, making conununication with the other states difficult, has preserved it in a great measure from participating in the wars that have desolated the rest of the country : a circumstance which, conjointly with a great accession of commercial vigour, arising out of the successful cultivation of coffee, has given it of late an impulse unknown to the sister states. More than 70,000 quintals (cwt.) of coffee, worth 7i dollars the quintal in the country, (making a total of £105,000), is now annually exported. While other large cities are deaying, San Jose, its new capital, has risen into im- portance within a very few years. It already numbers upwards of 20,000 inhabitants. Cartago, the former capital, and two other towns of some magnitude (Heridia and Alajuela), occupy, with the modern J* SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR capital, an extensive table-land stretching almost across the Isthmus. These towns, together with two or three small ports on each ocean, include almost the entire population of this compact and thriving state. In lat. 14° 46' N. and long. 91° 46' W. is Guatemala la Nueva, or the the new city, so named because the inhabitants abandoned the old city on account of earthquakes, which is the present capital, and may on many accounts be considered as the principal town in Central America. It is situated on one of the elevated plateaux of the main Cordillera, known as * Los Llanos de las Vacas,' or the valley of * Harmita.' This plain is surrounded by bold ranges of mountains, among which stand prominent the two volcanoes of the Antigua, * De Angua,' and * De Fuego,' and a third called * El Volcan de Pacaya,' which is scarcely, if at all, inferior to them. The plain is about 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is 15 miles wide and 18 broad. The climate, though considered inferior to that of La Antigua, is mild and salubrious. The thermometer rarely rises above 70°, and still more rarely descends below 64°. The number of inhabitants, who are chiefly Ladinos, the mixed or Mestizo race, and pure Creole-Spaniards, the unmixed descendants of Spanish colonists, is estimated at 36,000 or 40,000 ; and in importance, wealth, and beauty, it is second, in Spanish America, only to the city of Mexico. The principal lake in Central America is that of Nicaragua, whose surplus waters descend to the Atlantic by the Rio San Juan del Norte. It is an inland sea, larger than the island of Jamaica, being 180 miles long from east to west, and nearly 100 broad from north to south, and 150 Spanish leagues in circumference. In many places thp water is 10 to 15 fathoms deep, and it is stated that there are but few shallows. It contains a small archipelago of islands, and on one fertile and populous island, named Ometepe, there is a volcano. This lake is also connected with that called Managua, itself no inconsiderable body of water. The shores of these magnificent waters, which are likely to afford important facilities for commerce, are of surpassing fertility, and as salubrious as they are beautiful. It is from the Lake of Nicaragua that the canal is proposed to be cut, connecting the lake with the port of San Juan del Sur, on the Pacific. f. Not far from the western or Pacific coast, the country is traversed from north-west to south-east by a continuous cordillera or unbroken chain of mountain';, unbroken at least as far as the Lake of Nicaragua, which are covered with diversified vegetation. This forms a kind of connecting chain between the Rocky Mountains of the north, and the Andes of the South American continent. Some of the loftiest summits are 17,000 feet high. Frequent spurs or offsets from the 'Sierra i THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. Isthmus, ch ocean, [ thriving va, or the 3 old city i may on America. Hordillera, Harmita.' ong which igua,' and which is 5,000 feet 9ad. The s mild and still more are chiefly liards, the 36,000 or in Spanish jua, whose del Norte. 180 miles south, and p water is V shallows. ertile and ake is also e body of likely to tility, and Nicaragua h the port traversed unbroken Nicaragua, kind of and the t summits ■e * Sierra a Madre,' the main ridge, intersect the plains at right angles, and some- times extend to the sea-shore. At various degrees of elevation along the sides and on the summits of the mountains, are numerous plateaux or table-lands, like so many natural terraces, some of them of great extent, and all delightfully temperate and luxuriantly fertile. These regions especially seem to invite the residence of man, and to invite the culture of his hand. They constitute a distinguishing feature of this and sovne neighbouring countries. But no one of those countries, and probably no part of the earth, presents a greater diversity of level on a surface of equal extent than does Central America ; consequently, no country possesses such variety of climate, or offers such facilities of adaptation to all kinds of productions and to all constitutions of men, from the sun-burnt inhabi- tant of a tropical plain, to the hardy mountaineer inured to perpetual snows. Moet of the highest peaks and isolated mountains are volcanoes. The rocks are of granite, gneiss, and basalt ; but volcanic formations and ejections predominate. Not less than thirty volcanic vents are said to be still in activity. The traces of remote, as well as recent earthquakes are clearly discernible in the fissures and ravines that everywhere abound. Extinct craters, rent rocks, beds of lava, scoriif , vitrified, charred, and pumice stones, together with hot and sulphureous springs, all mark it as the most volcanic region known. Indeed, shocks of earth- quakes, generally slight, are periodically felt at the opening and closing of the wet season. The productions of Central America are numerous. Abundant materials for exchange with other nations are afforded in cotton, coffee, sugar-cane, arrow-root, ginger, t»bacco, and even silk-worms, though but lately imported; but especially in 'anil' (indigo), and *grana' (cochineal), which, because most lucrative, absorb almost all the attention of the planter. Other marketable productions are not wanting; but both known and unknown sources of wealth decay in the forests, or lie hidden beneath the soil. But, besides these, the more temperate regions yield all, or nearly all, the productions which are raised in Europe. Wh«t and barley are cultivated sometimes by the side of the sugar- cane, on the el#vated plains ; and the markets of the larger towns are supplied at once with the productions of torrid and of temperate climes ; so that, at all seasons, the green pea, the cauliflower, and cos-lettuce, are sold along with the Avocato-pear, sweet potato, olive, capsicum, or chillies, and many other productions rf opposite climates, less delicate, perhaps, but more common and useful. Of edible fruits, those most common are the banana, pine-apple, orange, sweet lemon, lime, shaddock, forbidden fruit, water-melon, musk-melon, sapote, mango, guava, fig, SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR tamarind, pomegranate, granadilla (fruit of the passion flower), sea- grape, papia, mamniaj, star and custard-apples, and cocoa, cashew, and ground nuts. There are said to be in all " more than forty genera," including, probably, those introduced from Europe, such as the apple, pear, quince, cherry, &c., which, though they are found to thrive, are little appreciated, and none of any sort can be said to be cultivated with care. The same remark applies, though with frequent exceptions, to garden flowers, which are still more varied. It has been well observed by Mr. Frederick Crowe, that "The precious metals of Central America, together with quicksilver, copper, lead, iron, talc, litharge, and most other minerals that are in use, only await the labour and ingenuity of man to extract them from the bowels of the earth, and convert them into objects of convenience and beauty ; and seams of coal, ochre, gypsum, sal-ammoniac, and wells of naptha, are also ready to yield their valuable stores. Jasper, opal, and other precious stones are also found ; and pearl fisheries have long existed upon the coasts. In fine, there is no lack of any thing that nature can bestow to sustain, to satisfy, and to delight. So abundant are the necessaries of life that none need want : so profuse are the bounties of nature that they are suffered to decay through neglect. The peach-tree and the rose run wild on the borders of the orange grove, whose fruits and flowers are alike simultaneous and perennial ; and the pine-apple, the mango, and the water-inelon are preferred to the almond, the olive, and the grape. Such is the nature of the soil, that the exuberance of that wealth which rots upon its surface in the less populous parts of Central j*.merica, would amply clothe and satisfy with bread thousands of the sons of want who fill our streets and unions, dispelling that squalid wretchedness which penury and destitution have produced, and mitigating some of the woes which embitter the lot of so many of our fellow-countrymen. It may be that the time is not far distant when many such will seek these fruitful shores, and under wise direction, not only benefit their -iclves, but, while redeeming fertile valleya and plains from desolation, greatly bless the timid natives with higher arts of life." Lying between the parallels of 10° to 18°, and almost insular as to any influence of the continent on its temperature, the climate of the coasts and lowlands is hot and humid. That of the interior varies with the altitude, and is generally mild, equable, and salubrious. The two seasons, aptly designated the " wet" and the "dry," are well defined. They may be said equally tj divide the year, though they vary consider- ably in different districts. The rains, everywhere copious, are more continual in some parts, and the drought is more severe in others, but the dry season is nowhere uninterrupted by refreshing showers, and the THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. jr), sea- lew, and genera," le apple, irive, are ted with )tions, to at "The , copper, use, only le bowels [ beauty ; if naptha, md other y existed ature can : are the )unties of leach-tree ose fruits ne-apple, the olive, erance of parts of housands ing that ced, and ly of our ,nt when irection, jlleya and gher arts liar as to of the Iries with Ixhe two defined. Iconsider- tire more lliers, but and the I wet is everywhere relieved by an interval of dry weather, which percep- tibly separates " the former " from " the latter rain." In the highlands of the interior, the seasons are singularly regular. The dry weather commences about the close of October, and terminates on the 12th or 13th of May, rarely varying even a few hours. It is most frequently on the 12th that " the windows of heaven are opened." The sky is then suddenly obscured with thick clouds, which burst simul- taneously, often accompanied with thunder, and sometimes with hail. This is confined to the afternoon, and returns on the following days, or perhaps for successive weeks, at the same hour, or a little later. During the whole of the wet season, which is by far the most agreeable, the forenoon is almost invariably cloudless, and the atmosphere clear, elastic, and balmy. The rains are often confined to the evening and night, or to the night hours only. During the dry season, the mornings and evenings are often so cool and bracing as to predispose to active exercise, though fires are never resorted to. Through the day the sky is seldom obscured, and light clouds only are to be seen sweeping rapidly along the plains during the short twilight that ushers in the equinoctial day, thence they rise and hang in clusters round the tops of the mountains till the sun has gathered strength to dispel them : in the evening they return to attend its setting, and add inimitable beauty to the gorgeous scene. At all seasons the entire disc of the moon is distinctly visible through all its phases, but now it shines with such uninterrupted clearness, as entirely to supersede, when above the horizon, the necessity of artificially lighting the streets ; and even in the absence of the ruler of the night, the bril- liancy of the stars dispels all gloom. In some districts on the eastern coasts, through local influenees, it rains more or less all the year ; which, however, adapts them for the growth of certain vegetable productions ; while the districts where the dry weather lasts the longest are alone suit- able for the cultivation of others. On the more elevated plains, such as those of Quesaltenango, in the department of Los Altos, the heat is never so great as during the summer months in England ; and though snow is said sometimes to fall in December and January, it immediately dissolves, and the thermometer never descends so low as the freezing point. Nautical Remarks. — Ships bound from Cape Horn to the ports in Central America, steer to the northward, generally hauling towards the land, when they have reached the parallel of the Islands of Juan Fer- nandez and Masafuera ; they then steer according to the direction of the coast, with the prevailing winds from the S. to S.E., and without following too strictly any given rules as to distance from the land, custom, however, recommends to keep the land just in sight as the breeze is gene- rally brisker, and steadier than at a greater distance off*. Nevertheless, Captain Marie, of Bordeaux, states that he has sailed along the coast at 5 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR a distance of from 15 to 25 leagues, running at a rate of five to six miles an hour, and that even at 60 leagues from the land, he had met with steadier winds from the S.S.E. than close in-shore, which were less sub- ject to calms, being not so much under the influence of the land and sea breezes. In the winter season, say from May to October, it is better to keep at the greater distance from the land, because in that season, particularly near the coasts of Chili and Peru, comprised between the parallels of Val- paraiso and Lima, there are often light northerly breezes, accompanied with hazy weather and a heavy swell. As you approach the equator the fog and swell of the sea gradually subsides, and is succeeded by light sea breezes and clear weather. If bound to Acapulco or the ports on that part of the coast, and being unprovided with good instruments, it is best not to make for the port to which you may be bound, because you might be carried to the westward, and thus be uncertain of your true position, but to run for the Island of Cocos, which, according to the observations of Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., is in lat. 5° 3S' N. and long. 86° 58' 22" W., in order to obtain your true position, and start from a well ascertained point of de- parture. If bound to the Gulf of Nicoya, it is advisable to si,eer for Cape Blanco, the western side of the entrance, taking care to keep to the eastward of it. If bound to Realejo, or to the ports to the westward of that river, a course should be shaped for the volcano of Viego, because it is the most conspicuous object on the coast, and is to windward of every port situated to the westward of the Gulf of Fonseca. This volcano is the most re- markable mountain in Central America ; its form is that of an erect cone, hilly towards its summit, having its upper base, or rather its crater, inclined, being less elevated towards the east than towards the west. Viego may generally be known by several hillocks about it, but which are of less altitude. Having premised these few introductory remarks we will begin the description of the coast, commencing with the Gulf of Panama. GULF OF PANAMA. — The Gulf of Panama is a spacious bay, about 130 miles wide at the entrance, and extending about the same distance to the northward, the coasts trending in a semicircular direction. The western point of the gulf is called Point Mala, and the eastern. Point Garachine. Its shores form two bays, the eastern of which, called the Bay of San Miguel, is to the northward of Point Garachine, and the western, the Bay of Parita, is to the northward of Point Mala. In the north-eastern part of "the gulf is a cluster of islets, named the Columbia Islands, for- merly called the Pearl Islands, from tlie pearls which are found there. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA, 9 the largest of which is the Isla del Rey ; there are also some islands off the city of Panama, which afford some protection to the harbour^ The soundings over the gulf are generally pretty deep, shoaling gradually as you advance, from 50 and 80 fathoms at the entrance. " GULF OF SAN MIGUEL.— The southern point of the Gulf of San Miguel, called Point Garachine, is high and barren, and has a rock above water off it, called El Caynelo, within which a good passage is said to exist. Within the point is a cluster of houses called the Village, and about three miles beyond it is the River Sambu. The land to the east- ward of the point becomes low and swampy, and bends round to the north-eastward, forming the Gulf of San Miguel, the water in which shoals gradually as you approach the shore. The Gulf of San Miguel is about 1 1 miles wide at the entrance, but becomes contracted as you advance within it by the Points of Patino and Lorenzo, which are only four miles apart ; here, on the port side, will be seen the Island Iguana, to the northward of which the gulf opens, and receives the Rivers Congo, Sucio, Estero, and Cupunati. A long neck of land here runs out to the southward, beyond which the channel be- comes narrower, and has several rocks and islands within it; to the northward is a large island, which divides it into two passages ; that to the northward has the deeper water, but that to the southward, or Boca Chica, is narrower, and free from dangers. Having passed these straits the channel runs in a S.E. i Easterly direction, towards the River Tuyra, where, in mid-channel, there is a narrow and long sandy island, having a passage on each side ; that to the south-westward has the deeper water, and is the broadest ; the River Tuyra then winds south-eastward to the little town of Santa Maria, up to which it is navigable, dividing near this town into two branches, one of which continues to the southward, taking its rise near the Cordilerras, and receiving numerous petty streams in its way, some of which serve to support a communication with the Gulf of Darien. The other branch extends N.W. by N., so far as the mountains which run along the northern part of the province of Darien ; this is called the River Chuqunaque, and is navigable by canoes. There is also another branch, dividing from the north-eastern part of the gulf, called the River Savanas, which runs up the country about N.N.W., 12 or 13 miles to Fort del Principe. The country about these rivers is generally low, woody, uncultivated, and unhealtliy. Bay of Panama. — From the northern point of the Gulf of St, Miguel, or Point Brava, which is moderately high, the land becomes low and sandy all the way to Panama, with a woody shore, in which are se- veral small streams ; some rocky islands lie off it, but the usual passage is to the westward and southward of them all. The passage between the shore and the Archipelago de las Perlas is 20 miles wide, with from 15 10 SAILING DIAECTIONS FOR to 22 fathoms water, mid-channel. The first islet met with is the Far- rallon Ingles, bearing from Point Brava about N. by W. | W., distant nearly three leagues ; it is a barren rock, lying a mile off the shore. Eight and a half miles N.W. by W. from the Farrallon is the Pajaros, two low rocky islets, 2i miles from shore ; and, in almost the same direction, 7^ miles further, is Manjue, or Tiger Island, which is con- nected to some small islets near the land by a ridge of sand. Within these islands, and close to the land, are some small islands called the Majaquey, between which and the shore are two fathoms water, and a passage for boats, &c. W. by N. from Tiger Island, 5| miles, and S.W. from Majaquey, distant two leagues, lies El Pelado, a small island, near which is 12 fathoms water ; the passage between El Pelado and Tiger Island, and also between Tiger Island and Majaquey, is good, and free from danger, with a bottom of mud, and the depth from 12 to 4 fathoms, decreasing toward the latter island. Opposite to this part, the coast is somewhat elevated inland, and the Sierras de Manjue become conspi- cuous ; from hence to the westward, a broad sand bank runs along the coast, the water being shallow, all the way, to the Island Chepillo. This island is low, and lies directly before the entrance of the River Chepo, which is a deep and rapid river, about a mile broad, taking its rise in the lofty mountains, about five leagues distant from the Gulf of St. Bias ; by means of this river, a communication is carried on between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. The town of Chepo is four miles up the river ; but the mouth of the river is, at present, choaked up with sands, and not navigable for ships. W, by N,, eight leagues from the Island Chepillo, is the city of Panama. PANAMA. Panama is a large and somewhat irregularly built town, having its principal streets extending, from sea to sea, across the peninsula on which it is built. It is represented to be now in a very ruinous con- dition. The buildings, of stone, are generally substantial, and the larger houses have courts or patios. It has a beautiful cathedral, five or six convents, and a college. The harbour is protected by a number of islands, a short distance from the mainland, and it is said that there is anchorage under all of them. The commerce consists in the exportation THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 11 [S con- larger or six ber of lere is rtation of the produce of the country to Lima and Guayaquil, and there is also intercourse with Jamaica, gold and silver being frequently sent by way of Panama to England. By recent observations, the north-east portion of the town is considered to be in lat. 8° 56' 56" N. and long. 79° 31' 12" W. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 23m., and the greatest rise of tide is 22 feet. Ledges of rocks extend some distance all round the peninsula on which the town is built, outside of which shoal water of from 3 to 15 feet ex- tends about a mile, which is succeeded by some rocky patches, called the Sulphur and Danaide Rocks, lying from 1^ to 2i miles from the town. The rocks furthest from the town are the Danaide Patches of 2^ fathoms, having 3^ to 5 fathoms all round them, which may be cleared on the south side by bringing the south steeple of the cathedral half-way between the east and south-east bastions. To the N.W. of the Danaide Patches, and between them and the town, are the Sulphur Rocks of 3 to 9 feci, which may be just cleared on the south side by bringing the flagstaff on Mount Ancon in one with the south steeple of the cathedral, a mark that appears also to clear the Danaide Rocks to the northward in four fathoms. About two miles to the southward of the town are five islands, called Ilenao, Culebra, Perico, Flamenco, and San Jose, about IJ miles from the shore ; between them and the shore there is no passage, the water being shoal. Beyond these, at the distance of 1^ miles, is the small island Changarmi, having a reef all round it, with a rock above water at its north-west extremity, called the Penamarca : this island is about a mile from the shore. To the south-westward of this, at the dis- tance of two miles, are the small islands Tortola and Tortolita. At about eight miles to the southward of the town of Panama, are the islands, Tobago, Urava, and Taboguilla, the soundings about which are 8 to 1 5 fathoms. Of these islands, the largest, Taboga, has anchorage on the north-east side in 8 to 10 fathoms, just off the village, where water and provisions can be obtained. The island Urava is immediately off the south end of Taboga, being separated from it by a very narrow channel ; it has, off its south end, a small island or rock called Terapa. The island Taboguilla is about 1^ miles to the north-eastward of Taboga, and about half its size ; off its south-west end is a cluster of rocky islets, and there are two or three rocks above water, called the >'arrallons, off its south extremity, having between them and the island 10 to 11 fathoms. The channel between Taboga and Taboguilla has a depth of water of 13 to 20 fathoms, and is all clear excepting at its southern entrance, where, nearly in mid-channel, there is a sunken rock, with 8 to 14 fathoms close-to all round, lying with the Farrallons, bearing about N. by E. i E., and the north end of Urava nearly W. by S. ^ S. To the southward of the Taboga Islets are the islands Chama, VaUa- 12 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR dolid, Otoque, and Bana, which last is the furthest from the Taboga group, being distant from them nearly 16 miles. Commander Sir E. Belcher, R.N., recommends vessels, in approaching the town of Panama, and after making Point Mala, to run up between these islands and the main, on the western side of the gulf, as, by doing so, considerable time will be saved. QUIBO, OR COIBA ISLAND has lately been surveyed by Lieut. John Wood, R.N., from which it appears that it is about 19 miles long, and 12 miles broad in its widest part ; and that its south point, Negada, is in lat, 7° 13' 13" N. and long. 81° 36' 10" W. ; variation of the compass, 7° E. It is luxuriantly wooded, and would be fruitful in every tropical pro- duction but for the rains, which continue from April to November, and render its climate unhealthy. Calms and variable winds prevail, espe- cially in the rainy season ; it is therefore not so well adapted as a place of general rendezvous, although more or less importance will be attached to it whenever a transit by either of the adjoining provinces shall be effected from the Atlantic. On the eastern side of Quibo Island is Damas Bay, which is five or six miles in extent, and affords a good depth of water and excellent shelter from the eastward. The soundings are from 30 to 15 fathoms, shoaling as you approach the shore ; and water may be obtained in the northern part of the bay. Off the southern shore rocky shoals extend nearly a mile out, so that care must be exercised to, avoid them. In the middle of the bay the land is low, and here there is a small stream, named the River San Juan, at the entrance to which are some sandy flats. Damas Bay was stated, by Captain Colnett, to be the most commo- dious place for cruizers he had met with in these seas, as it abounded with wood and water ; also trees of the cedar kind, large enough to make masts for first-rate ships, and of excellent quality ; his place of anchorage was in 19 fathoms, the north point of the bay being in a line with the north point of Cebaco Island, bearing N.N.E., the watering-place N.W. I N., and the south point of Quibo S.E. by S. ;* but vessels may lay near enough to the shore to be able to haul off their water ; the time of anchoring must however be considered, for sandy flats run a long way off, and may deceive you in the distance. It is high water in the bay at half after three o'clock ; the flood comes from the northward, flowing seven hours and ebbing five, the perpendicular rise of the tide being two fathoms. The anchorages throughout the bay are good ; and five or six miles off you will find 33 and 35 fathoms, good holding muddy ground. Few vegetables or fruits are to be obtained here, but shell- fish, as crabs, cockles, periwinkles, and oysters, may be had in plenty ; there are also * These bearings do not agree according to the new survey of Lieut. Wood. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 13 other fish to be caught, but alligators, sharks, and sea-snakes swarm on the adjacent shores, and seem to harass, destroy, and lessen the quan- tity ; deer and other animals are said to inhabit the island, and birds and monkeys are numerous, but they are very shy, and difficult to get at ; which Captain Colnett considers to be owing to the state of agitation they live in, from the wolves, tigers, hawks, and vultures that prey upon them. Turtles also are in great abundance, yet hard to catch. Whales also frequent these shores, but not in any great numbers ; some of these are of the spermaceti species. HicARONS. — Southward from Quibo Island are the Hicarons, two small islands, the southernmost lying in lat. 7° 6' N. and in long. 81° 48' W. ; this is about one mile long, and the northern island 3^ miles ; they lie north and south of each other, being separated by a narrow passage. The least island is entirely covered with cocoa-trees ; and the largest island bears an equal appearance of leafy verdure, but very few trees there are of the cocoa kind. The most extensive look-out, says Captain Colnett, is from the top of Hicaron, for it commands Quibo and the whole of the coast and bay to the northward. The channel between Hicaron and Quibo is about four miles wide, and has an irregular depth of 6 to 20 fathoms. It is quite clear ; but as there are some dangers near the south-east point of Quibo, it will be more prudent to pass to the southward of the islands than to attempt the passage within them. The principal danger to be avoided is the Hill Rock, a small patch of six feet water, lying two miles S. ^ E. from Barca Island, a small islet lying close to the shore of Quibo, and 5^ miles E. I N. from David Point, the eastern point of Hicaron Island. Close to this rock there are JO to 15 fathoms, so that it is very dangerous. Off the N.E. point of Quibo Island there are several islands and rocks. The largest island, named Rancheria, is 1^ miles in length, and lies about If mile from the shore ; within it are 7 and 8 fathoms, but, as there are several dangers, it will not be prudent to run through. To the north-eastward of this, about 4^ miles, and separated from it by soundings of 40- to 60 fathoms, are two smaller islands, named Afuera and Afuerita, which appear to be surrounded by rocks. The western coast of Quibo Island appears, from the survey, to be of moderate height, and bold to, and without any dangers but what are cl se to the shore. At about half way down there is an open bay, named Hermosa, in which are 14 to 20 fathoms. Rear-Admiral Sir George Seymour has remarked of Quibo Island, that "it is about the same size as the Isle of Wight. Off the points ledges of rocks generally extend ; but there is an appearance of an an- choring-place in the intervening bays on the east side, along which I pro- ceeded in the * Sampson ' steam-vessel. The soil on the coast is good, 14 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR but the interior is nearly inaccessible from the steepness of the cliffs and the tangled vegetation. We found traces of pearl-divers having visited the shores; but there are no inhabitants (1847) except at the small islet of Rancheria, between which and the north-east end of Quibo there is good anchorage. A Frenchman, of the name of Sorget, is resident on Rancheria ; and this situation, as far as I could judge on a cursory view, seems more favourable for an establishment than any we saw on the larger island." In the account of Lord Anson's voyage, by Richard Walter, published in 1776, there is a description of Quibo Island, in the following terms. It should be premised that the anchoring place was in Damas Bay. " The island of Quibo is extremely convenient for wooding and watering, since the trees grow close to the high-water mark, and a large rapid stream of fresh water runs over the sandy beach into the sea : so that we were little more than two days in laying in all the wood and water we wanted. The whole island is of a very moderate height, ex- cepting one part. It consists of a continued wood spread all over the whole surface of the country, which preserves its verdure the year round. Amongst the other wood, we found there abundance of cassia, and a few lime-trees. It appeared singular to us, that, considering the climate and the shelter, we should see no other birds than parrots, paroquets, and, mackaws ; indeed, of these last there were prodigious flights. Next to these birds, the animals we found in most plenty, were monkeys and guanos, and these we frequently killed for food ; for, notwithstanding there were many herds of deer upon the place, yet the difficulty of pene- trating the woods prevented our coming near them ; so that, though we saw them often, we killed only two during our stay. Our prisoners assured us that this island abounded with tigers ; and we did once dis- cover the print of a tiger's paw upon the beach, but the tigers them- selves we never saw. The Spaniards, too, informed us, that there was frequently found in the woods a most mischievous serpent, called the flying snake, which, they said, darted itself from the boughs of trees, on either man or beast that came within its reach; and whose sting they believed to be inevitable death. Besides these dangerous land animals, the sea hereabouts is infested with great numbers of alligators, of an extraordinary size : and we ofter observed a large kind of flat-fish, jumping a considerable height out of the water, which we supposed to be the fish that is said frequently to destroy the pearl-divers, by clasp- ing them in its fins as they rise from the bottom ; and we were told that the divers, for their security, are now always armed with a sharp knife, which, when they are entangled, they stick into the belly of the fish, and thereby disengage themselves from its embraces. " Whilst the ship continued here at anchor, the Commodore, attended I i THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 15 clifTs and ig visited mall islet ) there is ddent on Dry view, V on the )ublished ig terms, lay. ling and d a large ; sea : so mod and ight, ex- over the ar round, a, and a B climate lets, and. Next to keys and standing of pene- ough we )risoners mce dis- rs them- lere was lied the ;rees, on ng they animals, !, of an flat-fish, )osed to y clasp- old that knife, he fish, ttended by some of his officers, went in a boat to examine a bay which lay to the northward ; and they afterwards ranged all along the eastern side of the island. And in the places where they put on shore, in the course of this expedition, they generally found the soil to be extremely rici.- and met with great plenty of excellent water. In particular, near the north-east point of the island, they discovered a natural cascade, which surpassed, as they conceived, everything of this kind which human art or industry hath hitherto produced. It was a river of transparent water, about forty yards wide, which rolled down a declivity of near a hundred and fifty in length. The channel it fell in was very irregular, for it was entirely composed of rock, both its sides and bottom being made up of large detached blocks ; and, by these, the course of the water was frequently interrupted : for in some parts it ran sloping with a rapid but uniform motion, while in others it tumbled over the ledges of rocks with a perpendicular descent. All the neighbourhood of this stream was a fine wood, and even the huge masses of rock which overhung the water, and which, by their various projections, formed the inequalities of the channel, were covered with lofty forest trees." To the eastward of Quibo Island, in the Bay of Montijo, are the islands Ceba90, Governadora, and others, of which we possess no account. BAHIA HONDA, on the main, immediatel} to the north-eastward of Quibo Island, has lately been surveyed by Sir E. Belcher, R.N. It is a small bay, extending about three miles into the land, and widening when inside. In the north part of the bay is a little island named Talon, to the eastward of which are six and eight fathoms. Midway in the en- trance are 22 and 23 fathoms. The island, Sentinella, on the south side of the entrance, is estimated to be in lat. 7° 43' 32" N. and long. 81° 29' 1" W. The variation of the compass, in 1839, was 6° 17' E. PUEBLO NUEVO.— This port lies at the back of Quibo Island, on the main. At about 4| miles to the westward of the entrance, is a small island, a quarter of a mile in extent, called Magnetic Island, on which the observations were made in the course of Commander Sir E. Belcher's survey of this neighbourhood, by which survey the position of a small rock close to the south side of the island was determined to be lat. 8° 4' 39" N. and long. 81° 45' 30" W. It is high water on the days of full and change, at 3h. 10m., the rise of tide being 12 feet. Commander Sir E. Belcher says, " The port consists of the outlet of a large river, which takes its name from a small village of huts, situated on the River Santiago, at some distance from the entrance. It is formed by a neck or island about three miles in length, which affords good anchorage for vessels of any class. Three larger streams discharge themselves into the main basin at the western end of this island, where 16 SAILING DIRFXTIONS FOR il the apparent great entrance is situated ; but so studded with rocks and shoals, as to be unnavigable for anything larger than boats. It is in fact, an extensive archipelago, as most of the regions towards the Chirique territory will be found to be on future examination. " Water cannot be procured in any quantity, although it may pro- bably be procured by digging wells. The principal article of trade was sarsapaiilla, that of this neighbourhood being esteemed of superior quality. The stream runs fresh at sonic miles up, but we did not either meet it, or succeed in finding the town. Sugar-cane, of good quality, was offered ; and tortoise-shell, one of the articles of trade, can be procured at the season." The entrance of the river is about three-quarters of a mile wide, but the channel way is very much contracted by a sandy spit, called the Belitre Bank, which runs off from the north side of the river, and mostly dries. The north side of the river is low and swampy, but the south side. Cape Cayado, is high, makin-^ in hills of 300 and 400 feet eleva- tion. When running in, steer close round . Cape Cayado, in 7, 8, and 10 fathoms ; and keep the lead going, taking precaution to avoid the Belitre Bank ; which is the more necessary as it is steep to, and gives but little, if any warning by the lead. A spit of 2| fathoms runs off about a cable's length on the west side of Cape Cayado, and on the south side of the cape are some rocks close to the shore, called the Nueces Rocks, which are above water. About 1| miles N.W. of Cape Cayado is the small island of Silla, from which a spit of three to nine feet runs to the northward towards the main. On the west side of this island the soundings increase from eight to ten fathoms. Var. 7° 37' E. in 1839. From hence the coast trends round to the south-westward to the Contreras Islands, and then runs to the westward about 60 miles to Burica Point, from whence it runs to the north-westward to the Gulf of Dulce. Off this coast are the following islands and rocks, of which the principal information we have, has been furnished by Captain James Colnett, R.N. in 1798. The first islands met with, after passing the Contreras, are the Secas, about two miles from the shore, and '36 miles eastward of Point Burica. Outside of these, at about seven leagues S.E. by E. I E. from Point Burica, is a cluster of barren rocks, called the Ladrones, and S.E. 10 leagues from these, is the Island Montuosa, which is about six miles in circumference, and rises to a considerable height, having its summit covered with cocoa and other trees. Off the east and west ends of the island, rocks and breakers extend out three or four miles ; and on the south side of the island the bottom is rocky, so also is the shore near the sea ; still, there is a sandy beach behind some small creeks which THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 17 h rocks and ts. It is in owards the 1. :t may pro- •f trade was of superior I not either od quality, de, can be e wide, but , called the and mostly t the south feet eleva- n 7, 8, and ) avoid the , and gives ns runs off md on the called the id of Silla, rd towards rease from trd to the miles to the Gulf of which ain James le Secas, it Burica. am Point 1 S.E. 10 miles in summit ds of the d on the ore near cs which :'^: run between the rocks, where the landing for boats is safe. Captain Colnett found here plenty of parrots, doves, and guanas, and states that it is probable that refreshments might be had by searching for them ; and that this is a place which might be serviceable to whalers and others, whose sick could be landed here ; the milk of the cocoa-nut might also occasionally supply the place of water. GULF OF DULCE.— On the eastern side of the Gulf of Dulce is Point Burica, a narrow headland, the extremity of which is in lat. 8° N. and long. 82° 59' W. From hence the coast runs to the north-westward about 30 miles, and then turns round towards the south-west about seven miles, forming a large bay called the Gulf of Dulce, in which axe said to be several places of excellent anchorage and good water. From hence the coast runs towards the north-west 70 miles, and has the small islands Cano and Queypo lying off it near the shore. It then turns round to the northward to the Gulf of Nicoya, which is an excellent place for shipping, having many good anchorages within it, but is said to be unhealthy. Commander Sir E. Belcher mentions that " on the 28th of March they passed the Island of Cano, and on the 29th, between it and the main, found themselves at daylight off the mouth of a large inlet, which they had not time to examine, the current at the same time setting strongly to the eastward, with very hazy weather." GULF OF NICOYA, occasionally called Punta Arenas, is an inlet extending about 50 miles into the coast. It is about 25 miles wide at the mouth, between Cape Blanco and Port Herradura, but soon begins to narrow, gradually decreap'ng in breadth to the head of the gulf. There are a few islands in it, among which good shelter may be oc- casionally obtained, using precaution to avoid the shoal spots. On the eastern side of the gulf, in lat. 9° S8' 30", and long, 84° 36' 7" W. is Port Herradura, a small bay, sheltered from south-easterly winds by the small Island of Cano, which lies on the south side of the bay, but open to all winds that blow from the westward ; there is no channel be- tween this island and the shore, the space being occupied by a rocky ledge. The north point of the bay. Point Herradura, is high and rocky, and sur- rounded by a rocky ledge, which partly shows above water. Vessels in running in will find 24 to 18 fathoms at the entrance, but will soon deepen their water to 10 and 8 fathoms, when they will be about half a mile from the head of the bay, and may anchor. Excellent water may be obtained in a small lake at the head of the bay, by rolling the casks into the basin, where twenty can be filled at once. Vessels may ride close to the shore by veering the whole cable with a warp to the beach. From Herradura Point the coast runs to the northward, about 2i miles, 18 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR hi^t 1': ! i to Point Sucia, off which a rocky ledge extends to the westward one mile, and partly shows at low tide. Close-to, on the outside of this ledge, there is deep water of 18 to 25 fathoms. From hence the coast turns round to N.W. ^ N. 4^ miles, and then runs N.E., 10 miles, to Calderas Bluff, a high rocky point, to the eastward of which is Port Calderas, which is the principal port in the gulf, having a custom-house. Calderas is generally considered to be unhealthy to all new residents, and the higher authorities usually manage to excuse residence. Here wood, water, and provisions may be obtained. From Calderas Bluff the coast runs round to the north-eastward, eight miles, to Arenas Point, off which a bank of S^ and 4^ fathoms extends 2^ miles to the southward, having a small spot of two fathoms on it, lying with the extremity of the point bearing N. ^ W., 1^ mile, and the Pan de Azucar W.S.W. i S., 3| miles. This bank is very steep on the western side, deepening suddenly from 7 to 22 fathoms. Arenas Point has a shelf of mud extending about a mile to the west- ward of it, which is awash at low water. It forms the south bank of a small stream, which has its outlet immediately to the northwfird of it. On the north side of this river there is another shelf of mud, which also becomes dry at low water. From hence the gulf runs to the N.W. by W., about 25 miles, and shoals gradually as you approach the head of the gulf. Near the end of the gulf is a large island called Chira. West side of the Gulf. — Cape Blanco, on the west side of the gulf, is of moderate height, well wooded, even to the beach, and has a small island lying about a mile off it, with a clear channel of 4^ and 9 fathoms between. This island is of a whitish colour, without verdure, and, at a distance, appears to be part of the main land. It is surrounded by a rocky ledge, which dries at low water, and has deep water of 10 to 30 fathoms immediately to the southward of it. Captain Belcher makes the following remarks, on passing round the cape : — " On the morning of the 30th of March, 1837, we passed the Gulf of Nicoya, and close to the island named Cape Blanco, at its western point. Here we found ourselves obstructed by a point, off which the breakers and rocKy ledges above water extended some distance seaward. The soundings were regular from 25 to 1 1 and 84 fathoms, hard sand, in which latter depth we tacked successively within 1^ mile of the shore surf, and an outer roller about half a mile from us on the last tack. The weather, during the whole day, was thick and hazy over the land, fol- lowed, at nightfall, by thunder and rain. These symptoms of the approach of the bad season, rendered me doubly anxious to get to the northward, as our crew were not, at this time, in the best condition, and the moist season we experienced was very oppressive. a V e 1 in of III I THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 19 itward one ide of this 3 the coast miles, to ch is Port tom-house. T residents, ice. Here (vard, eight US extends loms on it, r mile, and ry steep on 3 the west- L bank of a 1 ward of it. which also e N.W. by head of the ;he gulf, is las a small 9 fathoms and, at a nded by a 3f 10 to 30 makes the he Gulf of tern point, e breakers aid. The 1 sand, in the shore tack. The land, fol- idered me ot, at this Lanced was I At daj'light, the weather very hazy, and Cape Blanco still in sight' a short distance to the westward we observed a sandy sloping blulF, o^T which a shelf, apparently composed of sand, with conical studded rocks, extended a considerable distance to seaward. On a sandy islet near the Bluff, two very remarkable ears jutting up, off which we tacked in 13^ fathoms, sand." From Cape Blanco, the western side of the gulf runs 1 1 miles to the N.E. by N. \ N./ and is pretty clear, excepting that a ledge of rocks, partly abo^e and partly under water, runs one mile off the shore, at about 2^ miles from the cape, having deep water of 17 fathoms close-to outside. At the end of this distance, 1 1 miles, the coast bends a little inwards, forming a small bay, called Ballena Bay, in which are soundings of 18 and 9 fathoms, shoaling gradually as you approach the head of the bay, which is low land covered with mangroves. The north side of Bal- lena Bay, called Ballena Head, is of moderate height, and steop-to, having 14 fathoms a short distance off it. From hence, the coast runs N.E. ^ N., about eight miles to the Nigretas Islands, having about midway two islands, separated from the shore by a narrow channel navigable by boats, called Jasper and Alcatraz. The Nigretas are two islands pretty close to each other, which run oif^^ miles from the coast, having off the eastern one a ledge of rocks extending a quarter of a mile to the eastward, near the extremity of which is a large rock called the Sail Rock. From the Nigretas Islands the coast runs to the N.N.W., 6^ miles, and has several islands off it, lying more or less near the shore ; of these, the largest, about two miles westward of Nigretas Islands, is called Cedro Island. At the end of this distance are the Islands Aves, Pan de Azucar, and San Lucas, surrounded by shoals to a short distance, but separated from each other by soundings of 7 to 1 1 fathoms. The Pan de Azucar, by the observations of Commander Sir E. Belcher, has been determined to be in lat. 9° 55' 48" N. and long. 84° 50^ 2" W. High water on the days of full and change at 3h. 9m., the rise of tide being 10 feet. The channel up the gulf, to the northward of the San Lucas Islands, between them and the bank off Point Arenas, is 1.^ mile wide, with a depth of 18 to 27 fatlioms, muddy bottom. Hence up the gulf, and failing a pilot, 'the eye and steady use of the lead will be the best guides. Directions. — ^The following, which are the only instructions we have for the gulf, were written in 1813, and are added, as they may prove useful : — • " The entrance of the gulf is safe ; the tides, however, at times run strongly, especially at the full and change of the moon. There is ebb r2 20 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR and flood, but the former is of longer continuance and much stronger than the latter. To run in, keep to the eastward of the meridian of Cape Blanco, which is the westerly part of the gulf; and should you round the cape at the distance of from one to three miles, the course will be about N,E. ; or, if you should be about half-way between the cape and Point Herradura, the eastern side of the gulf, it will be a little more northerly. Having sighted the Nigrctas, named also the Boqueron Islands, which will show themselves on the port-bow, you will see a rocky point a little to the eastward of the Nigretas, having the appearance of a vessel, and hence called the Ship Rock, to which you must give a good berth, leaving it on the port hand. Haul then over to the starboard coast, so that in the event of it falling calm and an ebb tide, you might anchor in shallow water ; whereas, if becalmed, with an ebb tide, when near the Ship Rock, or Nigretas, it would be difficult to find anchorage, at least in not less than 20 to 30 fathoms ; and if unable to anchor, the ebb tide, which is very strong in this part of the gulf, would drive the vessel back again past Cape Blanco. Steer along the starboard coast, so as to pass the extreme points at a distance of from two to three miles, and you will soon percei /e the custom-house of Punta Arenas, towards which you will shape your course, and as soon as the village is seen, bring the custom-house to bear N.N.W., or the middle of the village N. by W., when you will have from 13 to 8 fathoms, and will see in the distance the point named Punta Arenas. Further out there is a heavy breaking of the sea, occasioned by some sand-banks, which run out a great distance, and partly dry at low water. To the westward of the banks are the islands of San Lucas ; to the eastward of which, between them and the banks, there is good anchorage. Merchant-vessels prefer lying closer to the harbour, on account of their proximity to the landing-place and stores. The course indicated above will lead ships into this anchorage. The leading mark is the custom-house on with the flag-staff of the port. You will have about eight fathoms water, muddy bottom, at from a half to three cables* length from the shore. The banks above alluded to have a tendency both to augment and change their position, and the safest course is to keep the custom-house a little open to the eastward of the flag-staff", keeping the lead constantly going ; and should the water shoalen, to haul immediately to starboard. If desirous to come to anchor on heaving the ship to, at some two or three miles from the port, in order to obtain a pilot, it may safely be done, until one comes off and carries you to the place desired. The custom-house is easily known by its white painted roof; but it should be carefully borne in mind that, from the rapid progress the THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 21 iich stronger ape Blanco, I the cape at lit N,E. ; or, ; Herradura, • lands, which cky point a 3 of a vessel, good berth, ard coast, so night anchor ben near the ige, at least he ebb tide, ; vessel back so as to pass and you will 5 which you n, bring the e N. by W., the distance ivy breaking eat distance, nks are the lem and the account of le indicated ark is the have about iree cables* gment and stom- house constantly starboard, ome two or y safely be roof; but rogress the sea was making upon this spot, the said custom-house may by tliis time have been destroyed, and another rebuilt elsewhere." * It has been recommended that ships from the southward should' make Cape Blanco, for the purpose of obtaining a fresh departure for their intended port. Such is the course recommended by the writer of the foregoing directions, who considers that it is a better plan than to make a direct course for the volcano of Viego ; as in winter the winds are light and variable, and attended with frequent calms, and it is frequently the case that the high lands are obscured by mists or haze, which renders the navigation difficult, even to those well acquainted with the coast. From Cape Blanco the coast runs N.W. I W., 50 miles, to Point Velas, so called from being frequently mistaken for a sail, off which are some rocks ; and about eight miles before you come to which is a small place called Morro Hermoso. It is recommended to give the land a good berth, in order to avoid what dangers there may be ; for it has not yet been closely examined. It is represented to be, in general, high land covered with trees, with occasionally some sandy plains and small deep bays. From Point Velas the coast runs seven miles to the northward, to Point Gorda, to the north-eastward of which is Port Culebra. GULF OF PAPAGAYO is the bend of the coast in which are situated the ports of Culebra and Salinas. Port Culebra is an inlet running about four miles into the coast, in a north-easterly direction. At its entrance it is about a mile wide, with soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms, which depth decreases gradually towards the head of the bay, where there are nine to six fathoms. On the south side of the entrance are some islets, or rocks, at a short distance from the shore, called the South Viradores ; and on the north side are also two similar rocks, called the North Viradores. Captain Sir E. Belcher has determined the north end of the bay to be in lat. 10° 36' 55" N., and long. 85° 33' 30" W., variation in 1838, 7° 5' 54" E. After mentioning various difficulties experienced in finding the port, he describes it in the following terms : — " At daylight on Sunday, the 25th of March, 1838, we were close off the port, but not being able to detect the Viradores, we wore, and intended running further south ; as Kellet had informed me that, in his search for me, he had been unable to find it. • See page 18, in which Calderas is stated to be the chic' port, from the informa- tion of Commander Sir E. Belclier, who says : — " Punta Arenas was formerly the port of this gulf in the state of Costa Rica ; but interested parties, whose property lay near to Calderas, on the eastern side of the gulf, managed to have the port or custom- house officers, &c., shifted thither. It is very unhealthy, almost tutal to all new residents ; and the highest authorities take cure to excuse residence." I) ! I i ; I t I 22 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR While in the act of wearing, a gleam of sunshine showed an island in-shore, which induced me to make another attempt, and on reaching to windward we opened the heads and discovered the Viradores ; but even then could only ascertain from the mast-head that any recess of bay lay within. At noon we entered the heads, and at 3h. anchored in eight fathoms in this splendid jjor^, justly deserving that appellation. The port is certainly magnificent, and, from information derived from the natives, I learned that it is connected with Salinas, and thence on to Nicaragua, Granada, &c. If any railroad is contemplated in this quarter, it ought to enter at the Bay of Salinas, which would render these two ports important. M'hen this portion of the country becomes settled, civilized, and more populous, I little doubt but Culebra will be better known, and probably the chief port of the state of Nicaragua. Water, fit for consumption, was not found at the beach, but may be obtained a short distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high water. If wells were dug, doubtless it would be found at the N.W. side, as the surrounding country is mountainous. Another symptom in favour of this is the thickly-wooded sides and summits, as well as bright green spots of vegetation throughout the bay. Brasil wood is very abundant. Mahogany and cedar were observed near the beach, but, as people have been employed cutting the brasil, probably all the mahogany and cedar, easily attainable, has been taken." From Port Culebra the coast runs to the N.N.W., about 20 miles, to Cape St. Helena, round to the northward of which are Tomas and Salinas Bays. On the south side of this remarkable cape is a cluster of islands, called the Murciellagos, or Bat Islands. Captain Sir E. Belcher makes the following remarks on these islands :— " On rounding the point in view corresponding to Point Catalina of Bauza, we discovered a cluster of eight islands. These I determined to examine, as they did not appear on the chart. They almost formed two distinct harbours ; tlie smaller islands forming a crescent by the south, one large island protecting the east, and another of similar size forming the line of separation. Passing into the bay, we anchored in "^he inner or eastern harbour ; and, having fixed the positions, surveyed it, and completed water at a very convenient position, where we anchored in 32 fathoms, with a hawser fast to the shore. We quitted for Salinas, after having satisfied ourselves that Culebra ./as not near us. The name of this remarkable cape, which we had mistaken for Catalina, is St. Helena, and the cluster of islands is termed Murciellagos, or Bat Islands. * The springs are numerous, and there are tolerable rivulets; but only that which we watered at (between the centre point and the main) is safe to approach, by reason of the constant surf. We found the gulf %tli THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 23 ed an island 1 reaching to es ; but even s of bay lay ired in eight 3n. tion derived s, and thence ilated in this would render ntry becomes ilebra will be caragua. , but may be enter at high le N.W. side, ;om in favour bright green /ere observed [ig the brasil, been taken." t 20 miles, to Tomas and a cluster of ir E. Belcher t Catalina of etermined to formed two { the south, size forming in "^he inner yed it, and chored in 32 that Culebra lich we had ids is termed ivulets; but id the main) Lind the gulf squalls, even in this sheltered position, come down the gullies with great force, and impede our work as well as endanger our boats. In forty-eight hours, however, it was finished. The geological structure of the cape and islands is a schistose serpentine, containing balls of noble serpentine." Tom AS AND Salinas Bays, to the northward of St. Helena Point, are separated from each other by a small headland, called Point Descarte. They are quite open to all winds blowing from the westward. In the south part of Tomas Bay, at about a mile from the shore, are some rocks above water, named the Vagares ; and at the head of the bay is a small island, called Juanilla, inside of which are seven and eight fathoms. The north shore of the bay has also an islet lying off it, named Despensa. The water in this bay is very deep, there being 30 fathoms at two miles from its head ; from whence it deepens gradually to eight and seven fathoms within Juanilla Island. Salinas or Bolanos Bay is about the same size as Tomas Bay, nearly four miles; but has not such deep soundings, the depth averaging six to ten fathoms, sand and mud. In the south part of the bay are some rocks, above and under water, at a short distance from the shore ; and in the centre of the bay is a small island, called Salinas, the position of which has been determined to be in lat. 11° 2' 60/' N., and long. 85° 39' ly' W. The north side of the bay is high land, but the south side is low and fiat. The prevailing winds in this gulf, named Papagayos, blow with con- siderable violence out of the gulf, and frequently cause the loss of spars and rigging. They commence about the meridian of Leon, long. 86° 50' W., and when you are coming from the westward, are first felt off Cape Desolada, about six miles to the eastward of Realejo, and suddenly give way to calms after passing to the westward. They decrease about sunset, and attain their greatest force about nine or ten in the morning. Captain Sir E. Belcher says of this wind or breeze, that its limits may be considered to be included in a line drawn from Cape Desolada to Point Velas ; and it is rather a curious phenomenon, that its strength seldom ranges so far as this chord, but seems to prefer a curve at a distance of 15 to 20 miles from the land. Captain Marie says of the coast to the eastward of the, gulf, that in this part of the coast, and as far as the entrance of the Gulf of Papagayo, the winds are very light, with frequent calms ; the tides setting strong from the N.W. Custom recommends steering along the coast in the gulf, as by so doing it is thought that the squalls are less severe, the winds more steady, and the sea much smoother. He has frequently crossed this gulf, sometimes close in shore, and at other times been forced, by strong winds from N.N.E. to N.N.W., to keep in the oHing. In the 24 SAILINU DIRECTIONS FOR li^ I summer time he has navigated in this locality both near to, and at a distance from the coast, and in both eai»es met with strong winds, ac- companied with sudden and heavy squalls, which are almost immediately followed by calms ; great care is therefore necessary. He has always taken the precaution to keep from one to three reefs in the topsails, taking care promptly to shorten sails when the squalls came on, and then keeping as close to the wind as possible, with a good full sail, so as easily to make Point Salade ; and thus cross the gulf with this sort of weather in about 12 or 15 hours. The winds generally enable ships to make a N.W. course, but in order to keep in with the coast, it is desirable, as the squalls subside, to steer, if possible, a little to windward of that point. Port San Juan. — From Salinas Bay the coast runs towards the north-west, about 15 miles, to a place named Port San Juan,* which was selected by Mr. Baily, who was employed by the government of Central America to make a survey of this part of the country, as the point where the railway or canal from the Lake of Nicaragua, projected at that time, 1838, should communicate with the Pacific. It is in lat. 1 1° 15' ST' N., and long. 85° 52' 56" W., and is but a small place, although sufficiently commodious within. High land surrounds it on every side, excepting towards the S.S.W. and W. by S. quarters, in which directions it is open to the ocean. At its head the beach is low and sandy, and on each side the land juts out towards the sea, forming promontories of 400 to 500 feet high. The port is about 1,100 yards in extent; and the entrance from the sea is clear, with a depth of water of nine, eight, seven, and six, fathoms, decreasing gradually to three fathoms at the distance of 300 yards from the beach. In every part there is good anchorage, generally on a muddy bottom ; and the rise of tide is from 10 to 14 feet. The prevailing winds on this part of the coast are North and N.E., which blow occasionally with considerable violence ; and when such is the case, vessels may sometimes experience some difficulty in making the port. Fresh water can be obtained at a short distance from the beach. Fish is abundant, but nothing else, except firewood, is to be had ; the neighbouring lands at present being in a state of nature, without inhabi- tants or habitations ; nor is there either village or town nearer than that of Nicaragua, at a distance of seven or eight leagues. There are a few cattle about. At the distance of less than a mile from the port of San Juan, there is another port named Nacascolo, which is of nearly the same siae and figure ; and, as the land between them is low and nearly level, they might be united by a cut, were it thought necessary.. As these places are so * Also called San Juan del S:ir, and Concordia, I re THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. , and at a winds, ac- amediately has always e topsails, i, and then 30 as easily jf weather s to make jsirable, as rd of that wards the which was jf Central oint where that time, 5' 37" N., iufficiently excepting it is open each side 00 to 500 ! entrance 1, and six, ce of 300 generally and N.E., uch is the iking the le beach, had ; the It inhabi- than that are a few , there is sise and ley might :es are so nearly adjacent, they could, probably, both be usefully occupied, one as an entrance to, the other as an exit from, the canal. Captain Sir E. Belcher had great difficulty in finding Port San Juan, and remarks — " as we could not fetch Salinas, I beat up to a position where we observed a flag displayed, rockets fired, and a number of men and women in holiday garb collected ; and, it being Sunday, we anchored for the day. The surf was too heavy to attempt landing, therefore we could neither fix our position satisfactorily, nor obtain information about San Juan, although I strongly suspected this to be the spot. On Monday we ran up to Salinas Bay, and then commenced the coast survey to Realejo, under very easy sail, anchoring for observations near noon as well as at night. Every nook was narrowly examined, but without success ; therefore I am satisfied that Sunday's position, before noticed, was the port in question." From Salinas Bay the coast runs towards the north-west, a distance of about 100 miles, to Cape Desolada, a term answering its description, as only one or two stunted shrubs are on its summit ; it is in general pretty clear and bold-to, and has 10 to 12 fathoms a short distance off. About 10 miles to the westward of Cape Desolada is Cardon Island, at the entrance to the port of Realejo. It is said that at about seven miles before reaching the port there is a reef running off the land, having two rocks above water, the one eight and the other five feet high, which are distant from the beach rather more than three-quarters of a mile. In passing it, give the rocks above water a berth of two miles. The ground between the rocks and one and a half mile seaward of them, and probably more, is very uneven. In the year 1835, H.M.S. Conway struck on a part of this reef, at i of a mile S.S.W. | W. from the north-west, or highest of the rocks.* — Nautical Mag. 1836, p. 70. REALEJO. — The village of Realejo is about nine miles from the sea, and in 1837 had a population of about 1,000. Its prosperity has for some years past been declining, more from want of capital, and the little security afforded by a weak government, than from any want or field for speculation. The principal employment of the males is on the water, loading or unloading vessels. There is a custom-house, a collector, comptroller, and other officers necessary for the management of the port. Water and provisions can be obtained. The branch of the river on which the village is situated, the Donna Paula, takes a course towards Leon, and is navigable to within three leagues of that city. It has been • It should be observed that, according to Captain Sir E. Belcher's chart of Realejo Harbour, there is a reef, named the Conway Reef, lying three-quarters of a mile from the beach, with Castanon Bluff, south side of the Barra Falsa Channel of the harbour, bearing N.W. f W., nearly three miles. Probably it is the same reef. 26 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR suggested to carry a railway from Leon to the Lake of Managua, which might be effected ; but neither the population or consideration of the returns at present warrant such a step, unless as the sole act of the government. Off the mouth of the river is the island of Cardon, which divides the entrance into two channels, the Cardon Channel on the north, and the Barra Falsa on the south. It is about three-quarters of a mile long, and a cable's length broad, at the south end ; thence widening a little towards its other extremity, and is surrounded, to a short distance off, by a sandy flat of one and two fathoms water. The island is of moderate height, appearing of a brownish red colour towards its north-west part, Cape Ponente, which has some trees on it. On each side of the entrance, the shore, for some distance, is low and woody. The Barra Falsa Channel, the south channel into the river, lies between Cape Austro, the south end of Cardon Island, and Castanon Bluff, the western part of three islands running off the main, but which are con- nected together at low water by dry sand. The distance between the two capes is about a quarter of a mile, but the channel-way is not more than a cable's length wide, being confined by the shoals on either side. In approaching this channel, you should open the western point of Cardon Island to the southward of Castanon Head, as it will clear the Conway Reef in six and seven fathoms ; and, in running in, bring the Vigia, a conspicuous building, about 4J miles up the country, to bear about N.N.E., appearing between the two points, and it will lead in, in about five and four fathoms. Both flood and ebb press upon the Castanon Shoals, and without a knowledge of the tides, this channel will be unsafe for a large vessel, unless with a strong leading wind. < . ■«--?"•*. Vi iMr*" — ^iwJ-^^P^ :•;*« _"i$,^^Ff^4^i Cape Austro. The Vigia. SOUTH CHANNEL OF PORT REALEJO. Castanou BlufT. The Cardon Channel is the safest for strangers. It lies close round the north end of Cardon Island, between it and the Sawyer Shoals, extending off* the south-west end of Aserradores Island, which have not more than 3 to 15 feet on them. To sail in, run towards the entrance with the south end of Aserradores Island and Cardon Head touching each other ; and when up with Cardon Head, haul close round it, as the current sets direct on the Sawyer Shoals. A heavy swell breaks on lit". •: THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 2*; igua, which ition of the ! act of the divides the th, and the le long, and ttle towards by a sandy ate height, part, Cape trance, the ies between I Bluff, the :h are con- (tween the ! not more either side. 1 point of I clear the bring the y, to bear lead in, in Castanon be unsafe Bluff. se round • Shoals, have not entrance touching It, as the :eaks on i i Ponente Point. You may go close to Cardon Head, off which, at a short distance, are 1 1 fathoms. If bound to this port from the southward, and having passed about 20 miles to the eastward of Cocos Island, you should steer so as to make the land to the eastward of the port, near Cape Desolada, during the period between November and May, as the winds prevail from the north-east, and blow, occasionally, with considerable violence out of the Gulf of Papagayo, causing a current to set along the shore to the N.W. From Cape Desolada you run along the coast in about 10 fathoms water. A good mark to make Ilealejo is the mountains Viejo and Monotombo ; the former of which is visible GO miles, and bears about N.E. by E. from the anchorage. In our chart of the coast we have given a view of it. VlEJO VOLCANO, bearing N. 70" E. 25 miles, M. Marie recommends that, in the winter time, and wanting a pilot, you should anchor in eight or nine fathoms, muddy bottom, on the west side of Cardon Island, with the island bearing E. ; and in the summer time, the north-west point of the island bearing S.E. ^ E. ; in both cases, at about a mile off the island. It is imprudent to attempt to run in without a pilot. When inside, the usual anchorage for merchant-vessels is eight or nine miles below the village, at a place named the Four Rivers. Here there is less annoyance from the musquitoes than if higher up. Good water can always be obtained by going to one of the small rivers a few miles above the anchorage. In winter this place is considered to be unhealthy, on account of the fevers, which are frequent and very dangerous. The north end of Cardon Island was found, by Commander Sir E. Belcher, to be in lat. 12° 27' 55" N. and long. 87° T 47" W. The time of high water is 3h. 6m. on the days of full and change ; and the rise at spring tides of 11 feet. Upon this port he makes the following remarks : — " Cardon Island is of volcanic origin, and the beach contains so much iron, that the sand, which probably is washed up, caused the magnetic needle to vibrate 21° from zero. I do not believe, however, that the needle was much, if at all, affected on tiie summit of the island, where our 28 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR ! observations were conducted. Our position was on its new cliffy angle. The boats having examined and found the anchorage safe, the Sulphur was brought in and anchored within the Island of Aserradores, in per- fectly still water, four fathoms, mud. On the Island of Aserradores our tide-guage was established, being free from undulation, although directly open to seaward through Barra Falsa ; and we were fortunate enough to find a good well of fresh water close to the beach. Trusting to the accounts I had read of the magnificence of this port, I had fully intended placing the ship near the town. The visit of the Captain of the port soon undeceived me. He assured me that at low water not more than three feet would be found near the town, and so narrow, that there was barely room for the oars of m}' gig, and then only by careful steerage. Indeed, I found, that although the ship might be warped two miles higher up, she would there be entirely shut from any breeze, her yards probably locked in the trees, and swarming with musquitoes. This port, if a settlement were established on the Islands of Aser- radores, Cardon, or Castanon, would probably be more frequented ; but the distance from the position where vessels usually anchor (within Cardon) to Realejo, is a sad drawback to vessels touching merely for supplies. Rum is also too cheap, and too great a temptation for the seamen. Supplies of poultry, fruit, bullocks, grain, &c., are, however, very reasonable, and of very superior quality ; turkeys are said to attain an incredible weight ; they still, however, justly maintain a very high reputation. The present village of Realejo (for the name of town cannot be applied to such a collection of hovels) contains one main street, about 200 yards in length, with three or four cross openings, leading to the isolated cottages in the back lanes. With the exception of the houses occupied by the commandant, vice-consul, administrator of customs, and a few others, there is not a decent house in the place. The ruins of a well-constructed church attest its former respectability. The inhabitants generally have a very unhealthy appearance." • From Cardon Island the trend of the coast is about N.W. along Aser- radores Island, which is low and well wooded, and has a sandy beach. A near approach to this coast is not recommended, as, if the wind should subside, the current and swell would soon drift you ashore. During winter, when the wind sometimes blows from S. to S.W. with rainy weather, there is also danger in remaining at anchor off this shore, as the sea runs very high. At a short distance to the N.W. of Aserradores Island there is a small round island, covered with trees, and with a beach of a whitish colour. ca ne be bo M thi do act tio -;l THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 29 ffy angle. ; Sulphur s, in per- ed, being igh Barra esh water this port, sit of the it at low n, and so then only might be from any ling with of Aser- ited; but r (within erely for I for the however, to attain ery high mnot be jt, about g to the e houses )ms, and lins of a abitants g Aser- r beach. should During 1 rainy as the a small colour, ■i 4: 1 i called Manzana, between which and Aserradores there is a channel nearly dry at low water, at which time it appears to consist of a single bed (plateoM) of rocks. It is dangerous to attempt this passage, even in a boat, unless in very fine weather and nearly high water. Between Manzana and the main there is another passage, but even more dangerous than that alluded to ; for, although the sea breaks less, and consequently does not so readily discover to you the rocks and sandy shoals, there is actually much less water upon them than is found in the previously men- tioned channel. It has occasionally happened that vessels bound to Realejo, and unac- quainted with the bearings necessary to make the entrance of that port, have mistaken Manzana for Cardon, and Aserradores for Castanon, and the passage mentioned for the entrance to Realejo ; so that great caution is necessary when sailing along this coast not to be deceived in the appearance of the laud, in fact, good charts and sailing directions are much wanted for this part of the coast. To the N.W. of Manzana are some rocks extending out some miles, and upon which the sea breaks violently. They extend along the coast as far as the parallel of the Mesa de Rodlan, a small mountain close to the beach, with a flat top. These reefs border the coast, are separated by channels, and have between them and the shore smooth water. From hence to Point Conseguina, at the entrance to the Gulf of Fonseca, the coast has a north-westerly direction. GULF OF FONESCA, OR Conchagua.— The Gulf of Fonseca is a large inlet or bay extending about 30 miles into the coast. The point on the eastern side, called Conseguina, is high, and has a reef extending off it nearly half a mile ; from hence the coast runs six miles towards the N. by E., and is high and clifiy, having, about half-way, some rocks extending a short distance from the land. Hence the coast bends round to the eastward for about a mile, and then runs 5i miles in a N. i E. direc- tion to Moneypenny Point, which is low and swampy. On the eastern side of Moneypenny Point is a small river or lagoon. From Moneypenny Point the coast takes a turn to the south-eastward, for 14 miles, to the mouth of the River Real, and is low all the way, but rises inland to high mountain land. The River Real is said to be navigable 60 miles from its mouth, and Sir E. Belcher was enabled to get his vessel, the Starling, up a distance of 30 miles, and could easily have gone further, had the wind permitted, but the prevailing strong winds rendered the toil of towing too heavy.* • Captain Sir E. Belcher makes the following remarks on this stream ; he says, "I am satisfied that the stream could have been followed many miles higher- and have not the slightest doubt that it is fed very near to the Lake of Managua. I saw the mountains beyond the lake on its eastern side, and no land higher than the inter- 30 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR II About eight miles within Conseguina Point is the volcano of that name, notorious for its frequent emissions of dust, ashes, and water. Its summit is about 3,800 feet above the level of the s( a, and can be seen at the distance of nearly 70 miles in clear weather. The verge of the crater is half a mile in diameter. The interior walls fall perpendicularly to a depth of about 200 feet, when the bottom of the crater becomes flattish, with a small transparent lake in the centre. The last grand eruption of this volcano occurred on the 20th of January, 1835, and was attended with the most disastrous effects. CONSEGUIN.l VOLCANO. From the River Real the coast bends round to the N.N.W., about 30 miles, to the head of the gulf, and has soundings of 1^ to 3| fathoms, at four miles from the shore, with some dry patches at G miles, E. by N., from Moneypenny Point. The western side of the gulf. Point Amapala or Candadillo, is of moderate height, and bordered bj a reef of rocks and sand extending about a mile into the sea, and causing heavy breakers ; thus enabling it to be easily avoided. Outside the point, at a short distance, are six to eight fathoms. F.cm Point Amapala the shore bends in to the north-westward to the outlet of a small river, and then turns to the north-eastward, nine miles, to Chicarene'Point, round the north side ■^f which is Port la Union, extending eight or nine miles inland. The upper and north chores of the port are low, and have extensive oyster beds running off them, by which the dimensions of the port are very much contracted. Off the entrance of the port are several islands. The channel-way to Concha^Tua, or San Carlos de la Union, is between these islands and Chicarene or Cliinguin Point, and is less than half a mile wide, with a depth of 12 to 14 fathoms in it. , vening treoa occurrnd. This, tlioreforo, would be the most advantogoous line for n canal, which, by entire lake-navigation, might be connected with the interior of the Slates of San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and extcinded to the Atlantic. Thirty navigable nil'cs, for vnasek drawing 10 feet, we can vouch for ; and the natives and residents assort 00 more ; but steauiera will be absolutely necessary to tow against the prevailing breezes." '•>. S THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 31 o of that mter. Its be seen at the crater ilarly to a es flattish, ruption of s attended , about 30 ithoins, at E. by N., iUo, is of extending labling it ire six to rd to the ine miles, a Union, ^^hores of them, by OfTtlie mcha-Tua, larene or 1 of 12 to < line for a rior of tlio c. Thirty mtivog and against the Conchagua, or San Carlos de la Union, is but a small place, although the principal port of San Miguel, 40 miles to the westward, in the interior. The port is entirely land-locked, in fact, a complete basin, and has a depth of four to five fathoms on the south side, over against the town ; but on the north side are extensive flats, which dry when the tide is down. The land- ing is at all times difficult, and at low water neaily impossible, and during strong northerly winds the communication is frequently cut off for days. It is not considered to be safe to lay-to close to the town ; for, in summer, it blows hard from the northward, and if your anchor came home, you might be ashore be/ore you could let go a second. The holding-ground is not considered to be very good. At the head of the gulf are the Tiger and Conchagua Islands, of which the southernmost of the group is called Manguera. T^iey are all more or less situated on a three-fathom flat. On the eastern side of the gulf, and just within the entrance, is a dangerouii reef of rocks, some above and some below the water, named the Farallones. They lie with Moneypenny Point bearing East, distant five and a haF miles, and have eight to ten fathoms close-to all round. From the Gulf of Fonseca the coast runs to the north-westward, about 60 miles, to the parallel of Vincente volcano, and is said to be dangerous all the way. In this space several rivers fall into the sea, the principal ot '.vhich are the Rio Grande de San Miguel and the Lempa ; having, at their ent/ance, numerous sand-banks, but imperfectly known. Outside these sand-banks there are 10 and 12 fathoms, sandy bottom. There are said to be very heavy rollerb in this part, the sea breaking furiously even at the distance of six and seven miles from the land. In reference to these shoals, opinions differ as to their position ; some navigators stating that they have safely sailed along the coast at the distance of two or three miles ; whilst others assert, that in sailing at the distance of nine miles from the land, they were close upon the southern edge of the reef. It is, therefore, most prudent not to keep too close in-shore, until San Vincente is brought t^) bear about N.N.E., when you may haul up in sight of the breakers of the coast, where there is no danger. About half-way between the Gulf of Fonseca and San Vincente volcano, is the Port Triunfo de los Libres, or Giquilisco, which is but a small place, having at its entrance two or three small islands, and much obstructed by sand-banks, upon which the sea breaks heavily. Its position has been determined to be nearly as follows : — lat= 13° ^ ' >:., and long. 88° 12' W. PORT LIBERT AD.— Whilst in sight of San Vincente, you will sec the volcano of San Salvador, tiie summit of which is flat, and not unlike a 32 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR !: 1 1 ;vi tortoise, and appears from the eastward to end in a peak. From the meridian o( San Miguel the coast is low, sandy, and covered with trees, but becomes rocky near Port Libertad. All this part of the coast to Point Remedios, in long. 89° 42' 55'*', is named Costa del Balsamo, from its yielding, in great profusion, the article termed Balm of Peru. A good mark to make Libertad is the mountain San Salvador, bearing N. by E. or N. It is but a small village of about twelve huts, (1837) and a family of about six in each. There is also a government building, employed for the stowage of the tackle used in landing cargoes ; and having at one end a cabin for the commandant, serving as parlour, bedroom, kitchen, &c. Captain Sir E. Belcher has made the following observations on the port : — "One would naturally expect from the title, *Port of Libertad,' something pretending to a bay, or a deep indentation ; but a straight sandy beach between two slightly projecting ledges of rock, about one mile asunder, forms the play a of Libertad ; it is law and interest only that have made it a port. At times the bay is smooth, but the substratum at the bear.!i ':^' f large smooth boulders of compact basalt, the instant the surf rises, they are freed from their sandy covering, and a dangerous moving stony bottom left, on which o' j: boat grounded. We were informed that it is generally violent for three or four days at full and change, which corresponded with our visits. The rollers which set in on this beach curl and break at times in four or five fathoms, at least a quarter of a mile off. Those within, which are the most dangerous, are caused by the oflset, or ejtflux. The sand beach is composed chiefly of magnetic iron sand, the dried superstratum, about one inch in thickness, caking in flakes free from admixture, Th« anchorage is uneasy, and, I should think, unsafe, and shovild be avoided near the full moon. Sudden rollers come in, which ?.rc apt to snap chain-cables, unless with a long range. Poultry, bullocks, &c., are to be obtained, but, compared with those of San Salvador or Realejo, the prices are exorbitant. Bullocks can only be embarked in one of their bongos." SONSONATE ROAD.— From Port Libertad the coast runs about 30 miles to the westward, to Point Remedios, round to the northward of which is Sonsonate or Acajutla Road, where ships can lie in nine fc eleven fathoms, bottom of sand, mud, and gravel, partly sheltered froiu winds off the land, but exposed to all that blow from the southward and westward. Point Remedios is of moderate height, and can be seen at a considerable distance, and has a reef of rocks off it, some obove and some under water, extending about three miles out to sea. Ths reef affordii ? % \ « I M THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 33 From the yith trees, 3 coast to amOf from 1. >r, bearing Its, (1837) t building, goes ; and s parlour, following Libertad,* % a straight ^ about one erest only ih h^^ rises, they my bottom s generally rresponded les in four which are the dried free from should be arc apt to with those s can only uns about rthward of in nine to tered froiu iward and seen at a and some ;ef alTordii ••« great protection to the anchorage, as it breaks the force of the swell ; it is steep-to on all sides, and must be carefully avoided. A good mark for Sonsonate iload is the volcano of Isalco, about 18 miles to the north- eastward, which cannot be mistaken as it almost constantly smokes. Here it is high water on the days of full and change at £h. 25m. p.m., with a rise of tide of nine feet. M. Marie says of this port : — " If ycu bring Isalco to bear N.E. i N., and steer in that direction, you will make this port. The custom-house, magazines, and the huts of the village are situated on a height that over- looks the plain, but are not distinctly visible, being surrounded by trees ; yet, at the distance of four miles, the harbour flag-staff and a shed with a tiled roofing on the sea-beach, can be distinctly seen. The port is also recognised by being situated at the termination of a range of rocks, and where the beach is sandy. The following are good marks for anchoring in summer, in eight fathoms, mud : — Point Remedies ....... S.E. Tlie flag-staff on with the inner angle of the custom-house store. Mount Isalco N.E. i N. and in winter, in 12 to 14 fathoms, mud : — Mount Isalco N.E. J N. Point Remedios S.E. i E. The flag-staff in one with the west wall of the custom-house store. Landing in this place is diflicult, and it is even imprudent to attempt to pass the breakers in a small boat. You ought to have a good whale boat ; and, in order to prevent accidents, it should be manned by a competent crew ; and not attempt a landing when the sea is rough. Merchant-vessels load and discharge their carpoes by means of !j mgos, or large craft, in the shape of whale boats, which get on and off U-^p. beach in the following manner: — They let go a heavy kedge at about 10 fathoms from the beach, with a good warp attached to a well- secured tackle on shore, which ought to be kept well tui-r, and in a line perpendicular with the direction of the surf. To this a large buoy is attaflif^d, at about 20 fathoms from the anchor, for which you steer on leaving the ship. On reaching the buoy, take care to get hold of the warp, and lay it over the stem and stern of the boat ; by means of which you will haul the boat or shallop close to the breakers, and watch a smooth, availing yourself of it to haul the boat quickly on the beach, v.'here, if kept end on, you may load or discharge in safety. There is a place at Acajutla, called Muelle, where landing, at high water, is comparatively easy. You koep you boat on her oars, uiitil a smooth and favourable moment offers for landing. It is a good mile to the village, and is rather fatiguing in summer." D 34 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR From Sonsonate Road the coast runs to the north-westward, about 55 miles, to Port Istapa, or Ystapa, which is an open roadstead similar to Sonsonate. In clear weather the mountains of Guatemala are visible at a considerable distance, and help much in making the land. When leaving Sonsonate, keep along the coast at a moderate distance, until you bring the volcano " Single-Peak " of Guatemala to bear N. by W. I W., in which direction Istapa bears from the anchorage. The anchorage is abreast the magazine, in eight to ten fathoms water in summer, but in 12 to 13 fathoms in winter. It is high water on the days of full and change at 2h., with a rise of tide of 10 feet. The entrance of the river is about three miles westward from the anchorage ; and, in consequence of the difficulty and danger met with in passing the bar, the lauding of goods is effected on the open beach, near the lagoon, which forms the old entrance. It used to be customary to hoist a flag, coloured blue, white, and blue, horizontally, when a vessel made her app< i , and to fire a gun; perhaps the custom may be still observed. The ^ don of the port is lat. 13° 56' 30" N., and long. 90° 37' 30" W. Variation of the compass 8° 40' W. At 1^ mile from the coast the depth of water is 15 fathoms. t tl ^r^- ^-^-'^-^ 'mhf GUATEMALA VOLCANOES, Point A, distant 70 miles, and B, 30 miles. From hence the coast trends round to the north-westward to the Gulf of Tehuan tepee, and is but little known. There are many rivers which have their outlet to the Pacific in this quarter, and there may be a few secure harbours, but of these we have no description, except the follow- ing by Captain P. Masters, of Liverpool, which is taken from the Nautical Magazine, 1839, p. 805. It will be observed that Captain Masters is sailing from west to east.* " On entering the Gulf of Tehuantepec, near the shore, we found the current setting to the W.S.W., IJ mile per hour. As the wind was easterly and light, we made a stretch to the southward, and in lat. 15° N. and long. 95° 30' W., I had the boat lowered and tried the current, and I * It is right to mention, that these observa'ions do not agree with the charts, h proof of their incorrectness. The whole coast is now under examination. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 35 rd, about 55 d similar to ire visible at ind. When ce, until you byW. J W., anchorage is timer, but in s of full and rd from the ^er met with open beach, 3e customary vhen a vessel I may be still [., and long, l^ mile from to the Gulf rivers which lay be a few the follow- from the hat Captain n fe found the e wind was lat. 15° N. urrent, and tho c'lmrts, h I found it setting S.S.E., one mile per hour. There had been a fresh breeze from the eastward the day previously. The following afternoon we were close in-shore, and found, as we approached the land, that the current had gradually altered, and was setting to the W.S.W. We came to an anchor the same evening in the Bay of Bamba, which is to the south-west of Morro de Zipegua, the current setting to the W.S.W., near]' :wo miles per hour. After a fresh S.W. or southerly sea breeze, the current close in-shore has run to the S.E., but this is not general, and does not last a long time. Whilst we were getting to the eastward in the Gulf of Tehuantepec, we experienced a slight norther ; as we stretched off-shore it hauled into the N.E. ; a disagreeable short sea arose, the wind blowing in gusts, and the weather hazy. Santa Cruz, port of Aguatulco, in lat. 15° 51' N. and long. 96° 17' W.,* is very difficult to make. It is situated in a small bay, about half a mile wide at its entrance, and runs in to the northward upwards of 1 1 mile. At the bottom of the bay is a sandy beach, and on its eastern side are two huts which cannot be seen unless close in-shore. About three- quarters of a mile, E.S.E., from the eastern point of the bay is the Piedra Blanca, a reef of rocks extending east and west about a quarter of a mile. The western part of the reef is about 40 feet high, and for about one-third of its length it is of the same elevation, but the remaining two-thirds to the eastward is low, and in places level with the water. When abreast of it, and off shore a few miles, it appears to be a part of the coast. Although it is called Piedra Blanca, it is a dark irregularly-shaped reef of rocks. The anchorage in Santa Cruz is said to be good. It is well sheltered from all winds excfept between East and S.E. by S. ; but, as the strongest winds blow from the northward, except in the rainy season, it may be considered a very safe port. It is the only place that can be considered a harbour, to the eastward of Acapulco ; and even in the rainy season, I was informei a vessel might lay there in perfect security. The depth of water in the bay is from seven to nine fathoms, with a clear bottom. About three miles E.N.E. from Santa Cruz, is the island Tango- latangola, separated from the main by a channel a quarter of a mile wide. This makes from the westward as a part of the main land ; the outer part of it is quite bluff, or rather a cliff of a brownish stone, the strata of which are horizontal, and have the same geological appearance as the land on the main nearest it towards the N.E,, and of the same height, namely, about 150 feet. Within the island, and round the western side, is the entrance * In the Admiralty Chart is a plan of tho Port ot'Guatulco, which we presumo is tho some, but its position is lat. 15° 44' 25" N. and lonj?. 90^ 8' W., according to tho ohservations of Commandor Sir E. Belcher, R.N. d2 I ( , !" i 3fi ■i^i SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR of the Bay of Tangolatongola ; it runs in about N.E., 2 miles. At the bottom of the bay is a fine sandy beach. The anchorage is said to be very good in it, but not equal to Santa Cruz. Its entrance is nearly a mile across, and continues nearly the same to the bottom. To the westward, half-a-niile from the head, which forms the western part of the bay or harbour of Santa Cruz, is a bluff point or head, under which is a good leading-mark for knowing the harbour. There is a cave in one of the rocks, level with the water, and close in-shore, and every swell that heaves in throws a quantity of water into ii, and as the cave has a, small aperture in the upper part of it, the water flies up resembling the spout of a large whale. It has often been taken for one by strangers, and deceived us by its appearance. In the night time, or foggy weather, when it is calm, or blowing a light breeze, the sound can be heard at some distance, like a whale blowing. This place is called the Bufadero. When about five miles off the shore from the Bufadero, the western extreme point of land has a broken rocky appearance, and is not so high as the land adjoining. "When about two leagues off-shore from the Bufadero, another cape, farther to the westward, can be seen. Its ex- treme point is rather low, but rises gradually inland to a moderate elevation. To the westward of Santa Cruz are two bluff heads, which, when abreast of, might be taken for islands. The first is about three miles from the port ; the other is two miles further to the westward, and has a white sandy beach on its western side. On the eastern side of the eastern head there is also a small sandy beach, from which to the Bufadero the coast is rocky. The land which crowns this part of the coasL is covered with stunted trees and brushwood. About four or five leagues N. 8° 30' W. is the Cerro Zadan, having a bell-shaped top, and a ridge on the north-east side connecting it with the higher range of the Cordilleras. The Cerro Zt'dan is elevated above the sea rather more than 6,000 feet. The mountains further inland, a few leagues, cannot be much short of 10,000 feet high, as they can be seen over the Cerro Zadan. The Port of Aguatulco is so bad to make, that vessels have been upwards of a fortnight in searching for it ; and it was by the greatest chance possible that we had not passed it, although we were not IJ mile from the shore. The two huts, which were on the beach, can scarcely be distinguished from the trees near which they are built. From Morro de Ystapa the coast runs about E.N.E. to Punta de Zipegua, in lat. Uf 1' N. and long. 95° 28' 30" W. ; variation of the compass 8.i° E. Between these points are several bluff headlands, which do not project far out from the general line of the coast, and afibrd no shelter. Punta de Zipegua forms the eastern part of what is called the Bay of Bamba, and is a very remarkable headland. From the west- vl ri oj ti THE WE8T COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. 87 les. At the 3 said to be ! is nearly a the western head, under ere is a cave e, and every 1 as the cave p resembling by strangers, ?gy weather, be heard at ; Bufadero. the western not so high :e from the en. Its ex- a moderate vhich, when three miles |d, and has a the eastern ufadero the is covered js N. 8° 30' dge on the Cordilleras. 6,000 feet. ch short of have been he greatest lot IJ mile l|] scarcely be Punta de ion of the headlands, and afford it is called i the west- ward, it shows itself with a bold dark clifl" to the sea, about 400 feet high. It projects out from the western line of coast nearly a mile, and forms a kind of double head. A short distance within the outer bluff" is a peaked hill, with the appearance of a light-coloured sandstone, and quite bare of vegetation. Further inland, between one and two miles, the ground rises higher, in small hummocks, a few of which are quite bare, and others have a small quantity of stunted trees and bushes scattered over them. The head, forming the western side of the Bay of Bamba, is not so high, nor does it rise so suddenly from the sea as Punta de Zipegua. It is also covered with bushes. The eastern side of Punta de Zipegua is covered with bushes and trees, the sand only showing through the soil in very few places. When abreast of it, and off" the shore from two to eight miles, the current was running to windward W.S.W.,from two and a half to three miles an hour. About N.E. from Punta de Zipegua, four or five miles, is a high reef of rocks called Piedra de Zipegua, or Macha- guista, in the chart Island of Eschevan. Its greatest elevation is from 60 to 70 feet ; and its length is about one-third of a mile in an E.S.E., and W.N.W. direction. It is said that there are no dangers near it but what can be seen. Between it and the main, from which it is about four miles distant, in a N. W. direction, is good anchorage ; the best anchorage is close to the reef. The pearl oysters are plentiful near this reef; they are caught by the divers in the rainy season. The general line of coast, from Punta de Zipegua towards Tehuantepec, runs about N.E. by N., easterly. As I had now passed to the northward and eastward of the position where, by my instructions, I was led to believe our cargo was, we hauled tc the wind, with a fresh breeze from the southward, and made a tack or two to fetch the Bay of Bamba. At 4h. p.m. we came to anchor abreast the western part of the beach, in nine fathoms, sandy bottom, off'-shore one and a half mile. As soon as we anchored, I went on shore to ascertain where the wood was cut for our cargo, and, with difficulty, got to speak with an Indian, who was greatly alarmed at seeing such a large canoe (as he called the brig) , and thought we were come to plunder the coast. His companion ran off" tc the woods, and he appeared likely to follow ; but, when I got within speaking distance, regained his confidence, and replied in answer to my enquiry — * What made them afraid ? My companion, who is gone, is afraid ; I am a valiant fellow !' He certainly appeared to have the valour of a goose ; his heart was beating against his sides, as if they would burst. We had not been many minutes together when he wanted to go aboard, and engage himself as my servant, that he might see the world ; but then, said he, * I am in debt to my n^ster, so I can't go.' It is a common practice with the landholders of Mexico to get their work- 38 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR I ■!! Il men in debt, particularly if he is a good man ; which secures their services equally, or probably more than if they were slaves, as they are com- pelled, if they have no cash, to work it out. Shortly after I landed, the proprietor came down on horseback, and stated that he believed there was some Brazil wood at a place called Rosario, (in my instructions it was called St. Francis de Aguatulco), and that Rosario was several leagues nearer Aguatulco. He said that ours was the only vessel larger than a canoe, that had been on this part of the coast for a great number of years. No vessel had ever loaded hereabouts. The beach, or Playa de Bamba, is about five miles long, and must be very bad to land on, with a fresh sea breeze. There was more surf on it when we landed than was quite agreeable; and the boat was half-filled, although the wind was blowing along the coast. We remained at anchor until the morning, and got under weigh with the land breeze, keeping at about half- a-mile from the shore, excepting when abreast of the headlands. In the evening we came again to an anchor, in nine fathoms, sandy bottom, opposite a small sandy beach, one and a half mile from the shore ; having seen nothing during the day like wood piled up, or anything in the shape of a signal. In the morning we again got under weigh, and stood to the westward ; and at lOh. a.m. were off" the Port of Aguatulco. I sent the boat on shore to enquire for the place where our cargo was lying ; an Indian got into the boal, as they were shoving off, with the intention of seeing the vessel ; from him I learned that we had passed it, and, as he knew the place, I kept him on board, and made all sail, with the wind S.W., for the place, and at 6h. p.m. came to an anchor in the Bay of Rosario. The consignees came on board before we were at anchor, and, by their talk, I expected to get loaded in a week; instead of which we lay there three weeks before the canoes arrived, or before they were prepared for shipping the wood oflf. The Town of Aguatulco is eight leagues from the port, and this is the only port in the state of Oajaca, where goods can be imported. Its com- merce can be easily imagined, when the person who is administrador of the customs, is also captain of the port, &c. ; indeed he is the only individual, both in the marine and custom-house departments, with the exception of an old man, who lives at the port, and sends him informa- tion when there is any arrival. Mexican vessels can load on the coast, by having an order from any custom-house in the Republic, where they may have touched at ; but foreign vessels are compelled to touch at Santa Crux to pass the custom-house visit. From the Island Tangolatangola to the Bay of Rosario there are several small headlands, which do not project much beyond the general line of coast, with the exception of Morro de las Salinas de Rosario, Most of them have a steep clifif facing the sea, with fine sandy beaches 7 h lace called tulco), and I that ours part of the hereabouts, ust be very on it when d, although >r until the about half- Is. In the ly bottom, re ; having the shape ood to the I sent the lying; an itention of and, as he the wind he Bay of chor, and, ch we lay prepared lis is the Its com- trador of the only with the informa- ;he coast, ere they at Santa lere are general Rosario. beaches between them, at the back of which are scattered a few small trees and bushes ; the land rising in very irregular-shaped hills towards the Cordil- leras. Abreast of the beaches, between the heads, I found the anchorage quite clear ; and when in nine to twelve fathoms water, the distance off- shore is about a mile, with sandy bottom. The west side of the Bay of Rosario is formed by the Morro dc las Salinas de Rosario, and is in lat. 15° SCV 25" N. and long. 96° 2' W. It projects about a mile beyond the line of coast. On its western side is a beach four or five miles in length to the next head. When abreast of Morro de las Salinas, it appears like an island with two large rocks abreast of its eastern and western part, but the whole is connected with the main. What appears to be the eastern rock, is a broken rocky head, about 160 feet high. The western is about half that elevation. Both these heads terminate with a broken cliff; the tops of them are bare and of a greyish colour, but the lower part is quite black, caused by the sea breaking against them. Between tliese heads is a small sandy bay, which is at the foot of the Morro, and rises gradually from the beach to the top of the hill, which \'.i about 180 to 200 feet high, and presents a very barren appearance, having but a few straggling bushes on it. The beach of Rosario is 10 miles long, from Morro de las Salinas to Morro de la Laguna Grande, which is its eastern extremity. About half the distance between the Morros, is a rock on the beach, about 40 feet high, and nearly the same diameter at spring tides. The water flows round it. During the time of our lying in the Bay of Rosario, which was from the 12th of February to the 1st of April, we had three smart northers, which came on at the full and change of the moon. At this time the surf runs very heavy on the beach. Our boat was capsized several times while we lay here, in landing and coming off. At tir.j >« the sea broke very heavily in all parts of the bay, that is, on the beach. I was caught on shore, a few days after arriving here, during the first norther, which came on suddenly, with a parching hot wind. A cross confused sea hove in from the south and north-east. The wind must have blown strongly out in the gulf, from the same direction ; and, though it blew heavily for three days, with the wind at times to the westward of North, the sea kept up until some time after the norther had ceased blowing. This is not generally the case, for a strong norther (and particularly if it veers round to N.N.W.,) beats the sea down ; at which time the landing is attended with little or no risk, which was the case when we had the last two northers. I was informed (and, judging from appearances, I think correctly,) that very often when the wind is in N. or N.N.W., close in-shore, it is N.E. in the offing, which makes it impossible to land on the coast. I remarked, whilst lying here, at the full and change of the moon, and when no norther was blowing, that, although the surf ran so 40 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR I 1 .;;)■ |i: ! I ' i high that no boat could land, the vessel lay without any motion. We were moored at less than 300 fathoms from the shore. The surf appeared not to be caused by a swell rolling in and agitating the sea at the surface, but to rise from below, and without any apparent cause, as we had light winds and fine woather the most of the time we lay here. On another occasion, I was caught on shore with a boat's crew for three days. In attempting to get off to the ship, the boat was capsized and stove. It was then, and had been for a week previous, nearly a calm. The heavy ground-swell invariably hove in from the S.S.W. We fortunately escaped from this beach without losing any of our people, which was more than I expected, having had three laid up at different times, who were saved from being drowned by a mere chance. In addition to what has been said about this part of the coast, it can be known by the low land at the back of the beach of Rosario, which runs in from one to two and a half leagues before there is much rise in it, and is thickly covered with trees. From north to north-west of Morro de las Salinas, nearly two leagues from shore, the rising ground is formed by a number of small barren hillocks. From our anchorage, at the place where we loaded, f^ . Ibllowing bearings were taken, lying in 9i fathoms, sandy bottom. There are two large patches of a whitish appearance, the farthest range of the Cordilleras ; the eastern is the lowest, and bore N. 59^° W. The appearance cannot be seen, unless from a little to westward of Morro de las Salinas. This has every appearance of being a waterfall, and rises from the other patch in a N.W. direction, at about an angle of 45°. It issues from a small valley in the Cerro del Chonga. The highest point of this range has but a small elevation above it, and is covered with trees. The waterfall inclines towards the south, and can be seen for several hundred feet descending, before it is lost sight of amidst the forest below. Cerro de Zadan bore N. 89° W. ; the extreme bluff of Morro de las Salinas, S. 36° W., three and a half miles ; the eastern point well within the bearings, and Punta de la Laguna Grande, N. 71° E., six to seven miles; the rock on the beach, mentioned as being 40 feet high, N.65° E. ; and the galena or sh=.d, under which the cargo was piled, N. 26° W., half-a-mile. At the western part of the bay are four palm^ trees, close to the beach. The distance from the Morro de las Salinas is about half-a-mile, and between these trees and the Morro is a larger cluster of palms. Between these two clusters is, at all times, the best place to land ; as a boat can beach here with comparative safety ; when, at every other part of the bay, the sea runs very heavy. At the neaps we found the place quite smooth, with the exception of a sea heaving in about every 10 or 15 minutes ; but it causes no risk to a boat, provided she is kept end on. m THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 41 At the south-weatern part of the beach, and where a small pathway leads to cross the Mono de las Salinas, close to the sea-side, in the cliffof a rock is a small spring of excellent water. We always found it clear and cool, even at noon ; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of water from it with dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing about it. The quantity that could be filled in a day did not exceed 30 gallons ; and, after having landed all our water-casks, we had to re-ship them, through a great deal of surf, and land them at the galena, abreast of the ship. We filled our water at a well about a mile from the beach, but the supply was very limited, it being the only well that had water in it up to the day of our sailing. We did not complete our stock. A captain of a ship should trust to no promises when he comes here, either with regard to supplies or anything else, no matter by whom made ; and, as water and fuel are indispensable articles, the filling the one and cutting the other, should be commenced immediately on arrival, by some of the crew. It is useless to employ Indians to work for the ship (that is, on shore), as the greatest part of them will neither be led or driven. On board they answer better (that is, a few of them), to haul the wood about in the hold. I found the promises of Indians, and, as they call themselves, * Gente decente y civilazado,' on a par. Near the Morro de la Laguna is a large lake, from which the headland takes its name. A few miles farther, to the eastward, is the Morro de Santiago de Ystapa (in the chart it is called Morro de Ayuta), near which is the entrance of the small river Ayuta, the stream that runs by Huamilulu and Ystapa. There is a bar across the entrance. The canoes land on the beach in preference to going over it, as it is attended with danger." ACAPULCO is considered to be the finest harbour in Central America • and, for its size, one of the most complete in the world. It affords shel- tered and land-locked anchorage of 16 fathoms, and under, in a surface of one mile square ; which, allowing for moorings, would, at half-a-cable range, or one cable asunder, accommodate 100 sail of vessels, even of the line. The bottom is sandy at its surface, but clayey beneath, and holds well. All round the harbour, on every side, are high mountains, which, on the north and east sides, range from 2,000 to 2,700 feet in height, and on the west side from 300 to 500 feet. They afford considerable shelter to the harbour, and may be seen at a great distance off" at sea. On the eastern side of the entrance of the port, just round Point Diamond, off" which a reef extends a short distance, the land bends inwards about one and a half mile, and forms a small and secure harbour, but open to all winds coming from the westward, called Port Marquis ; ill which are 13 to 19 fathoms, mud, sand, and rock. At the entrance of 48 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR the bay, on the north side, and at a short distance from the shore, is a small island or rock, and at the head of the bay is a rock, having from six to ten fathoms close to it ; these can be easily avoided. On the western side of the Harbour of Acapulco, and without the entrance, is an island about three-quarters of a mile long, called Griffin Island, having, off its eastern and western extremities, reefs extending to a short distance, and which, in parts, are above the water ; in other respects the island is clear. About a quarter of a mile from the island, there is a small islet or rock, called Le Morro, above the water, and having outside it a depth of 20 fathoms. The passage between Griffin Island and the shore is about two cables' length wide, in its narrowest part, and has a depth of 16 to 20 fathoms. It is called the Little Channel ; while the channel between the east and west points of the harbour is named the Great Channel. The Town of Acapulco is on the west side of the port, and has long been in a state of decline, owing to the bad custom-house regulations, which cripple the energies of its merchants. Its market is but indif- ferently supplied ; but fowls, and excellent fruit and vegetables, are readily obtained. Its position, from observations taken at the fort by Captain Beechey, is lat. 16° 50' 32" N. and long. 99° 50' 44" W. In the north part of the bay are some rocks, called the San Lr izo Rocks, at a short distance from the shore, having between them j \e town the watering-place, where good water can always be obtaiaed. About half-a-mile to the eastward of the San Lorenzo Rocks is another, called the Obispo, of a white colour, and about 60 feet high. Outside these rocks are seven to ten fathoms. In approaching the harbour, there are some hills to the north-westward, named the Paps of Coyuca, which are considered to be good marks for it. Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., has observed : — ". I cannot persuade myself that these Paps are useful for making the harbour, although in the offing they may be if not obscured. Acapulco may be approached from the southward or westward, by keeping the western cone open of the land, which will lead up to the Boca Chica entrance, or until Acapulco port is so close under the lee, that no further marks are necessary. There is not any hidden danger in the entrance to Acapulco, Keep a moderate distance from either shore ; five fathoms will be four id alongside all the rocks, and 25 to 30 in mid-channel. Round Point Griffin sharply, rather than stand over to San Lorenzo, as the wind, generally westerly, heads on that shore. If working, tack when the rocks on the south point of Town Bay show in the gap. The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to ; that outside is pre- ferable, but in either case let the outer rock bear "W.S.W. or W.N.W., \i i el h^ se THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 43 shore, is 3 laving from dthout the Ued Griffin extending : ; in other the island, ivater, and Jen Griffin narrowest J Channel ; liarbour is d has long igulations, but indif- ables, are be fort by V, I Lf izo n J \e obtaiaed, another, Outside i^estward, ks for it. le myself he offing rt^ard, by to the the lee, danger 1 either 5 to 30 over to )re. If show in is pre- N.W., so that a hawser fast to the rock may keep your broadside to land or sea breezes, and prevent a foul anchor. It would naturally be inferred that, as the harbour is surrounded on every side by high mountains, the breeze would scarcely be felt and the heat be intolerable. This is confined to the town limits ; at our ob- servatory, and at the port, San Carlos, we enjoyed a constant breeze. In all harbours there may be objectionable berths, but in that of Acapulco, if care be taken to keep in the line of what I have designated the * West Gap,' or neck of the peninsula, open of the south point of the town-bay, both land and sea breezes will be felt in their full strength, and free from causes which would heat them before entering the port, the neck being but a few feet above the sea-level. Water of good quality was found at several points between the fort and Obispo Rock ; but the two best streams are between the fort and San Lorenzo." The following remarks from the French chart of the harbour, the proceeds of the survey made in 1838, by M. de Petit-Thouars, Com- mander of the * La Venus,' will be of interest : — " The currents are not felt in the road, but, without they run to the S.E. with a strength varying from a-half to two miles. This current is more rapid during the ebb. In the fine season, that is to say, from December to May, the land and sea breezes are regular enough. They are feeble during the night, coming from N. to N.E. and E. ; and from S.W. to W.S.W. and to N.W. in the day. In the other months of the year this coast is danger- ous, and but little frequented. The usual anchorage is to the south of the fort, and before the town, in 11 to 13 fathoms, muddy bottom; it is perfectly safe. In case of necessity, anchorage can also be obtained in the Great Channel. When a ship is in sight at night, a light is shown near the signal- staflT. The navigation is attended with so little danger, that there is no pilot." From hence the coast trends a little inwards, about 80 miles, to the W. by N. 5 N., to Point Tequepa, on the eastern side of which is the River Coyuquilla. We have no information of this part of the coast until we get to Morro Petatlan, 20 miles further to the north-westward, off which there are some rocks named the White Friars, from their sup- posed resemblance to a cross. They have been described by Lord Anson, in the following manner : — *' The hill of Petatlan may be at first mistaken for an island, although it is in reality a peninsula, joined to the continent by a low and narrow isthmus, covered with shrubs and small trees. The bay of Sihuatanejo extends from this hiU a great distance to the westward, and has, at its / 44 SAILING T»IRECTIONS FOR iM I !( entrance, just off the hill of Petatkn, an assemblage of rocks, white with the dung of boobies and other tropical birds. Four of these rocks are high and large, and, together with several smaller ones, are, by the aid of a little imagination, made to resemble the form of a cross, and hence are called the White Friars." SIHUATANEJO, or Chequetan, is about seven miles to the west- ward of Petatlan. It is a small but excellent harbour, of about a mile in extent, and open to all winds coming from the south-west. At its entrance are 10 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards the head of the bay, where there are two and a-half to one and a quarter fathoms It has been lately surveyed by Captain Kellett, R.N., who places it in lat. 17° 38' S" N., and long. lOF 30' 52" W. Lord Anson has described it in the following terms : — *' It is about 30 leagues to the westward of Acapulco, and may easily be found by keeping well in with the land, especially if sailinc; down the coast from Acapulco. There is a beach of sand extending 18 leagues from Aciipulco to the westward, against which the ?ea breaks so violently that we found it impossible to land with our boats ; but yet the ground is so clean, that, during the fair season, ships may anchor in great safety, at the distance of a mile or two from the shore. The land adjacent to this beach is generally low, full of villages, and planted with a f^reat number of trees. On the tops of some small eminences there are several look-out towers, so that, altogether, the face of the country pre- sents a very agreeable aspect; for the cultivated part, which is the part here described, extends some leagues back from the shore, where it seems to be bounded by a chain of mountains, which ex tends a consider- ble distance on either side of Acapulco. The beach described above is the surest guide to those seeking Sihuatanejo ; for five miles to the westward of the extremity of the beach there is a hummock, which at first m ikes like an island, and is in shape not much unlike the hill of Petatlan, though much smaller. Three miles to the westward of this hummock, is a white rock near the shore, which cannot easily be passed by unobserved. It is about two cables' length from the shore, and lies in a large bay aoout nine leagues over, the west point of which is the hill of Petatlan. The harbour of Sihuatanejo is easily distinguished by a large rock, one and a-half mile, S. h W., from the middle of the entrance. I may add that this coast is no ways to be dreaded between the ?niddle of October and the beginning of May, nor is there any danger from the winds. In the remaining part of the year, there are frequent and violent tornadoes, heavy ruins, and severe gales, in all directions of the compass. These arc the marks by which the harbour may be known by those « wl UJ C£ bi tl I THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 45 ;ks, white ese rocks re, by the n-oss, and the west- lit a mile ;. At its id of the oms It it in lat. icribed it ay easily nr; down i leagues 'eaks so but yet nchor in rhe land ted with :here are itry pre- the part vhere it onsider- seeking of the nd is in . Three 3 shore, cables' es over, e rock, I may ddle of om the it and of the tho se who keep well in with the land ; but there is no mark for those who keep at a considerable distance at sea, who must, co .sequently, make it by the latitude ; for there are so many ranges of mountains rising one upon another inland, that no dravyings of the appearance of the coast can be at all depended on, every little change of distance or position bringing new mountains into view, and producing an infinity of different prospects, which render all attempts at delineating the appearance of the land impossible. The entrance of the harbour is but half-a-mile broad; the points which form it, and which are faced with rocks almost perpendicular, bearing from each othei S.E. and N.W. The harbour is surrounded on every side, excepting to tl:e westward, with high mountains covered with trees. The passage in is very safe, on either side of the rock that lies off the entrance, though we, both in going in and out, left it to the eastward. The ground without the harbour is gravel mixed with stones, but within is soft mud. It is necessary, when coming to an anchor, to make a good allowance for a great swell, which frequently causes a great send of the sea ; as, likewise, for the ebbing and flowing of the tide, which we observed to be about five feet, and to set nearly east and west. The watering-place is at the head of the bay. During our stay it had the appearance of a large standing lake, without any visible outlet into the sea, from which it is separated by the strand. The origin of this lake is a spring, which bubbles out of the ground nearly half-a-mile inland. We found the water a little brackish, but more considerably so towards the sea-side ; for the nearer we advanced towards the spring- head, the softer and fresher it proved. This laid us under the necessity of filling our casks from the farthest part of the lake, and occasioned us some trouble ; and would have proved still more difficult, had it not been for our particular management, which, on account of its convenience, deserves to be recommended to all watering at this place. Our method consisted in making use of canoes drawing but little water ; for, on loading them with a number of small casks, they easily got up the lake to the spring-head, and the small casks being there filled, were in the same manner transported back to the beach, where were some of tho hands to put them into casks of a larger size. Though this lake, during our visit, appeared to have no outlet to the sea, yet there is reason to suppose that in the rainy reason it overflows the strand and communicates with the sea, for Dampier speaks of it as a large river. Indeed it is necessary that a vast body of water should be amassed before it can rise high enough to overflow the strand, since the neighbouring lands are so low that a great part of them must be covered with water before it can run out over the beach." 1 I M I ! 46 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR Inlat. 18° 15' N. and long. 103° 30' W. is Point and River Tejupan, at the back of which the land rises to a great height, and forms two peaks called the Paps. From hence the coast runs to the north- westward nearly 80 miles to Manzanilla Bay, which is small but safe, and aifords good anchorage, well protected against the southerly winds prevalent during the rainy season. In the summjer-time it is rendered very unhealthy by a large lake of stagnant water in its immediate neigh- bourhood. This, together with myriads of musquitoes and sand-flies, renders it scarcely habitable. There are no houses, men and families living exposed under the trees. Manzanilla Port is the main sea communication with the city of Colima, 30 leagues inland, and which is said to contain about 30,000 inhabitants. It has been opened to foreign commerce for several years, but has not been able to make much progress. Inland, at the back of Manzanilla, is a very lofty mountain, called the volcano of Colima, which is 12,003 feet high, and can be seen a great distance at sea. Its position, determined by Captain Beechey, R.N., is lat. VP 24' 42" N. and long. 103° 33' 1" W. The following rough sketch of the volcano will give some idea of its form and appearance. ,<^-,#^v,,^^^ COLIMA VOM;A>rO, bearing: N. S?" E., distant 35 leagues. From Port Manzanilla the coast continues in the same direction, 40 miles, to Point Farallones, from whence it runs to the N.W. by N., 75 miles, to Cape Corrientes, in lat. about 20° 26' N. and long. 105° 39' 13" W., which rises high in the interior. - ''^ ^ " fc l f U"" "~' ±P5^- :4::v CAPE CORRIENTES, hearing S. n" E., 10 leagues. From Cape Corrientes the coast runs N.E. by E. i E., a distance of THE WEST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. 47 '*i«::v 28 miles ; thereafter it runs northerly a distance of eight miles ; and next to the west, a distance of 16 miles, to Punta Mita. Between Cape Corrientes and Punta Mita, bearing about N. by E. § E. and S. by W. § W. from each other, is formed a deep bay, named Valle de Banderas Bay. Off Punta Mita there are numerous rocky heads, to the eastward of which, in the northern part of the bay, anchorage may be got, in from six to eight fathoms. In the eastern part of the bay is the mouth of the River Piginto ; and in the western portion, at the distance of four miles, S.S.W., from Punta Mita, are two small islets, called the Marieta Islands, surrounded by numerous rocky heads ; and to the westward of these, at the distance of six miles, is a small island, rocky on the western side. All this coast is but little known. Care should be taken in the night-time to keep clear of a small cluster of low^rocks, which lie 22 miles to the N.N.W. of Cape Corrientes. Of these Captain B. Hall says :— " We made them in lat. 20° 43' N., and long. 105° 51' 4" W. Vancouver places them in lat. 20° 45' N., long. 105° 46' 55" W. ; an agreement sufficiently near." Vancouver describes them as follows : — " Much to our surprise, in the afternoon we ap- proached a small black rugged rock, or, more properly speaking, a closely connected cluster of small rocks, which, though deserving of attention, from their situation, and the safety of the navigation between Cape Corrientes, St. Bias, and the Marias, yet they are not inserted in either of the Spanish charts, nor do they appear to have been noticed by any former visitor, with whose observations I have become acquainted. The space they occupy does not appear to exceed the dimensions of a large ship's hull, nor are they much hi ■■-. They are at a great dis- tance from any land, and, so far as we coud perceive in passing them, at the distance of about half-a-league, the water near them appeared to be deep in every direction. We could not gain sour 'lings clo; round them with the hand-line, nor did this small rocky group seem to be supported by any bed of rock or shallow bank. The shores of the main land, to the eastward of them, at the distance of about eii'ht leagues, appeared to be broken, and about ten miles within them arc two small islets. These rocks, according to our observations, lie from the southernmost of the Marias, S. 36° E., at the distance of 1 2 or 13 leagues." From Punta Mita the coast appears to run westerly, a distance of six miles, and thereafter 34 miles, N. ^ E., to the mouth of the Rio Custodies, in which latter space lies Taltemba Bay, containing numerous rocky heads in its northern part, and round the N.W. point to about the mouth of the River Chila, eleven miles distant from the mouth of the Rio Custodies. The land to the northward of this latter river runs out westerly, about ft mile, to a point, from which to Santti Cruz Point, the southern point < f 1 m SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR 4 of the roadstead of San Bias, the bearing and distance are NN.E. h E. seven miles. . LAS TRES MARIAS.— These islands lie before the port of San Bias, and are four in number, if the Isle San Juanito (low and tabling) is included, which is not more than six miles distant from the northern- most. There are many small rocks around them, whose heads just rise above the water. These islands lie between 21° 16' and 21° 46' N. LAS TRES MARIAS, The Western Point of the Northern Island, bearing N. 50° E., three leagues. The northernmost is the largest of the group, and is thirteen miles long, and nine miles broad. It lies in a S.E. by E. and N.W. by W. direction ; which is also nearly the line in which these islands lie from each other. It is but moderately elevated, yet, notwithstanding, it may be discerned at the distance of near 18 leagues. Its highest part is towards the south, from whence it gradually descends and terminates in a long low point at its north-west extremity. A small low detached islet, and a remarkable steep, white, cliffy rock, lie off this point of the island, whose "hores are also composed, but particularly so on its south-west side, of steep, white, rocky cliffs. Its south-eastern extremity, which likewise descends gradually from the summit of the island, terminates also in a lov projecting point, with some rocks lying off from it. On either side is a small bay ; that on the eastern side is bounded by a beach, alternately composed of rocks and sand, and very probably good anchorage may be obtained in it, if the bottom should be good, as it is protected against the general prevailing winds. Between this island and Prince George's Island, the next to the southward, is a passage about six miles wide, with soundings from 20 to 40 fathoms, sandy bottom, and appears to be free from danger or interruption. Prince George's Island is about 24 miles in circuit, and is bounded on its south-west side by detached rocks, lying at a small distance from its shores. The shores, in general, but more so on its nortlicrn and eastern sides, descend gradually from the centre of the island (whose summit is nearly as high as that of the northernmost island), and terminate at the water-side in a fine sandy beach. This island is more verdant than the other, as its vegetable prodvictions extend from the more elevated parts to is tre Wll THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 49 to the wash of the sea, and grow with some luxuriance, although its soil is principally of a sandy nature. The chief valuable production is lignum vitae ; besides which is an almost impenetrable thicket of small trees and bushes of a thorny nature, together with the prickly pear, and some plants of the orange and lemon tribe ; the whole growing as close to the water-side as the wash of the surf would ^^ermit. A variety of fish, common to the tropical regions, abound about the shores. The south-easternmost island is about nine miles round. In navigating round these islands, some detached islets and rocks are visible about the snores, but all are sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided ; and there is every reason to believe, from the regularity of the soundings, that secure anchorage may be obtained against the prevailing winds, at a commodious distance from the shore. Of these islands. Captain Beechey says : — " The Tres Marias, situated 1° 15' west of San Bias, consist of three large islands, steep and rocky to the westward, and sloping to the east- ward, with long sandy spits. OIF the S.E. extremity of Prince George's Island (the centre of the group), we found that the soundings decreased rapidly from 75 fathoms to 17; and that, after that depth they were more regular. Two miles from the shore we found 10 and 12 fathoms, bad holding-ground. There is nothing to make it desirable for a vessel to anchor at these islands. Upon Prince George's Island there is said to be water of a bad description ; but the landing is in general very hazardous. There are passages between each of these islands. The northern channel requires no particular directions; that to the southward of Prince George'vS Island is the widest and best ; but care must be taken of a reef lying one-third of a mile of its S.W. point, and of a shoal extending one and a half mile off its south-eastern extremity. I did not stand close to the south Maria, but could perceive that there were breakers extending full three-quarters of a mile off its S.E. extremity ; and I was informed at San Bias, that some reefs also extended from two to four miles off its south-western point. There is an islet off the north- west part of this island, apparently bold on all sides : but I cannot say how closely it may be approached." If the Tres Marias Islands be passed to the south-eastward, at the distance of eight or ten leagues, and a N.N.E. course steered, Piedro de Mer, off San Bias, will be readily got sight of. The Piedro de Mer is a white rock, about 130 feet high, and 140 yards in length, with \2 fathoms all round it ; and bears from Mount San Juan, to the eastward of San Bias, N. 77° W., 30 miles. This rock is situated in lat. 21° 34' 45" N. and long. 105° 28' 13" W., and, from its height, forms an excellent land-mark. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR U ' ' Having made Piedro de Mer, pass closely to the southward of it, and, unless the weather is thick, you will see a similarly-shaped rock, named Piedro de Tierra, for which you should steer, taking care not to go to the northward of a line of bearing between the two, as there is a shoal which stretches to the southward from the main land. This course will be S. 79° E. true, and the distance between the two rocks is very nearly 10 miles. . i m . » SAN BLAS. — To bring up in the road of San Bias, round the Piedro de Tierra, at a cable's length distance, and anchor in five fathoms, with the low, rocky point of the harbour bearing N. i E., and the two Piedros in one. This road is very much exposed to winds from S.S.W. to N.N.W., and ships should always be prepared for sea, unless it be in the months in which the northerly winds are settled. Should the wind veer to the westward, and a gale from that quarter be apprehended, no time should be lost in slipping and endeavouring to get an offing, as a vessel at anchor is deeply embayed, and the holding-ground is very bad. In case of necessity, a vessel may cast to the westward, and stand between the Piedro de Tierra and the Fort Bluff, in order to make a tack to the westward of the rock ; after which, it v/ill not be necessary again to stand to the northward of a line connecting the two Piedros. The road of San Bias should not be frequented between the months of May and December, as, during that period, the coast is visited by storms from the southward and westward, attended by heavy rains, and thunder and lightning. It is, besides, the sickly season, and the inhabitants having all migrated to Tepic, no business whatever is transacted at the port. It is high water at San Bias at 9h. 41m., full and change ; rise between six and seven feet, spring tide. Captain Masters says: — "In the rainy season, when the wind blows strongly from the southward, a heavy swell sets in at San Bias ; and, as there is nothing to protect the anchorage, it must be felt very severely ; but I never heard of any damage having been done to the shipping in consequence. There are some advantage in a vessel lying outside in the roads during the rainy season, for there the crews have purer air to breathe ; and, probably, it might be more healthy than that of the port, besides being partially clear of mosquitoes, and other tormentors of the same cast, which are very numerous. ■ ' '' • There are 13 feet water on the bar of San Bias, in the shallowest part of the entrance, and very seldom less even in the neaps. By giving the point which forms the harbour a berth of 15 or 20 fathoms, you will avoid a large stone, which is awash at low water, and is about eight fathoms from the dry part of the rocks or breakwater. As soon as you I THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 51 are so far in, that the innermost or eastern part of the breakwater is in a line with the other part of it inside, which runs to the N.N.E., it may be approached to within 10 or 15 fathoms, and by keeping well off from the low sandy point, which is on the starboard hand as you warp up the harbour, you will have the deepest water. But, as the sea sometimes in the rainy season (although but seldom"* breaks over the breakwater which forms the harbour, it would be best to moor close under the high part of the land on which the old ruin of a fort stand, with the ship's head up the river, and a bower laid off to the eastward, and an anchor from the starboard quarter, making fast on the port side ' ^ the shore, either by taking an anchor out or making fast to the roc^ .. It would be next to impossible that any accident could happen to the ship." The following notes, made on a passage to the port of San Bias, are by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R.N. : — " Supposing a vessel, bound to the western coast of Mexico, safely round Cape Horn, and running before the southerly gale which almost constantly blows along the shores of South America, she ought to shape a course so as to cross the equator in about 98° or 99° W. long., so that when she gets the N.E. trade she will be at least 6° or 7° to the east- ward of her port, — San Bias or Mazatlan ; and have at the same time a sufficient offing from the Galapagos Islands to avoid their currents and variable winds We crossed in 105° W. long., having been recommended to do so by some old merchants at Valparaiso, and were consequently, although a remarkably fast-sailing ship, a lamentably long time making the distance. Several days' log of the ship show as follow : — March 24th „ 25th „ 26th San Bias 672 miles distant G46 657 Our track led us to be exactly in the same longitude as our port, when we got the trade, and it hanging well to the northward, we were con- stantly increasing our distance, until in the latitude of San Bias, when an in shore tack, of course, shortened it. But, by the course I have recommended, the first of the N.E. trade will drive the vessel into the meridian of her port, and she will thus daily decrease her distance. Care must be taken in standing in for the land not to go to leeward of San Bias, as there is a strong southerly current along the coast, especially off Cape Corrientes. If possible keep San Bias on an E.N.E. bearing. The Tres Marias Islands, off the port of San Bias, are con- venient points for making ; and here a master could leave his vessel in perfect safety to water, while he communicated with his consignees, or got his overland letters from his owners at home. There is a safe mid- e2 52 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR channel course between the middle and southern islands : we brought a saddle-shaped hill on the main, a little south of San Bias, one point open of the south island, and steered by compass N.E. by E. The Two Piedro Brancos, that of de Mer and de Tierra, are excel- lent marks for the roadstead, which, by Beechey, is in lat. 21° 32' 20" N., long. 105° 15' 15" W. A good anchorage for vessels awaiting orders (for which purpose San Bias is now almost alone visited, except by English men-of-war, and Yankee clippers for smuggling purposes), will be found with Piedro Branco de Mer, N. 70° W. ; de Tieria, N. 43° W. ; and village in the Estero, N. 26° W. Since the days of Hall and Beechey, the town of San Bias has very much changed. Its population of 20,000 have dwindled to 3,000 residents, and their unwholesome appearance, fully accounts for the decrease of residents ; and nearly all its trade has been transferred to its rival — Mazatlan. The large town of Tepic, in the interior, with a small factory, ow ned by an English merchant, causes a small demand for European luxuries, and a cargo or two of cotton ; which petty trade is carried on during the six healthy months in the year. A great deal of smuggling is carried on from the neighbourhood of this port, the extensive bay, to the south- ward, affording great facilities to the men-of-war's boats in that employment. The town is built on the landward slope of a steep hill, almost per- pendicular to seaw^ard, and its crest crowned by the ruins of a custom- house ; but this being about three-quarters '>f a mile distant from the beach, a large assemblage of huts has been formed at the landing-place, in the Estero del Arsenal, for the convenience of supplying the shipping ; the occupants being, for the most part, grog-venders, fishermen, and an agent to the harbour-master. In the Estero del Arsenal, small craft, of less than 10 feet draught, will find convenient anchorage, means of heaving down, &c. The watering-place is, at least, three miles distant from the above anchorage ; and to assist the boats in this heavy work, it would always be advisable to shift the vessel into such a position that they might make a fair wind off and on whilst the daily sea-breeze blows. The watering-place is at the northern extremity of a large open bay, south of San Bias ; the beach is shoiil, and the casks have to be rolled three or four hundred yards through the jungle to a stream of water. This stream, during the spring tides, is liable to be found brackish ; but even then we succeeded in obtaining supplies, by immersing the empty cask with the bung in such a position that only the fresh water (which, of course, would be on the surface), could enter. By rigging triangles with spars in such a position that the boats I THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMEP.iCA. 5S )rought a ne point ire excel- . 21° 32' awaiting d, except jurposes), 'ieria, N. 3 has very to 3,000 ;s for the rred to its ry, owned I luxuries, luring the is carried the south- s in that Imost per- a custom- from the ing-place, shipping ; en, and an t draught, &c. The nchorage ; ! advisable fair wind open bay, )lled three er. This but even mpty cask (which, of the boats could go under them to load, we succeeded in embarking daily 32 tons of water. Many useful and ornamental woods are to be procured on shore, for the mere trouble of cutting, especially lignun; vitae. Fresh beef we found good in quality. Game moderately plentiful ; oysters good and plentiful ; vegetables scarce and expensive. The climate may be summed up by the word execrable. On the 1st of November, the dry season commences; the temperature rises steadily, and the land yields all its moisture, until, by the month of May, the heat of the atmosphere resembles that of an oven, and the air swarms with musquitoes and sandflies. The sky cloudless, the land and sea-breeze regular, but not refreshing. Early in June, heavy banks of dark, lowering clouds, charged with electricity, collect on the high lands in the interior, lowering masses of clouds hang to seaward. The change is fast approaching, and before the 16th of June the rains commence and deluge the land, accompanied by heavy squalls and a tumbling swell from seaward. All vessels now leave the coast unless able to take shelter in the Estero ; though of late, men- of-war, in eager search for freight, have held on, and found that the gales do not, in the winter, * blow home.' At this season all the inhabitants, whose means afford it, quit the coast for the interior. For the first month, or six weeks, the parched land absorbs the rain ; but, by the middle of August, it becomes moist and swamp ; the haunts of alligators and aquatic birds. In September the action of the sun on water-soddened land, generates fever of the most violent nature, and it behoves those who arrive early in the dry season to be careful of exposure to the malaria." General Remarks on the Coast. — Captain Basil Hall, R.N., makes the following observations on the winds and weather, and navigation of the south-west coast of Mexico : — *' On the south-west coast of Mexico, the fair season, or what is called the summer, though the latitude be north, is from December to May inclusive. During this interval alone it is advisable to navigate the coast; for, in the winter, from June to November inclusive, every part of it is liable to hard gales, tornadoes, or heavy squalls, to calms, to constant deluges of rain, and the most dangerous lightning ; added to which, almost all parts of the c^ast are, at this time, so unhealthy as to be abandoned by the inhabitants. At the eastern end of this range of coast, about Panama, the winter sets in earlier than at San Bias, which lies at the western end. Rains and sickness are looked for early in March at Panama ; but at San Bias rain seldom falls before the 15th of June; sometimes, however, it begins on the 1st of June, as we ex- perienced. Of the intermediate coast I have no exact information. il SAILING DIRrECTIONS FOR ! I i'l h i. except that December, January, and February are fine months every- where; and that, with respect to the range between Acapulco and Panama, the months of March, April, and half of May, are also fine ; at other times the coast navigation may be generally described as dangerous, and on every account to be avoided. From December to May inclusive, the prevalent winds between Panama and Cape Blanco de Nicoya are N.W. and northerly. From thence to Realejo and Sonsonate, N.£. and easterly. At this season, off the Gulfs of Papagayo and Tehuantepec there blow hard gales, the first being generally N.E., and the latter N. These, if not too strong, as they sometimes are, greatly accelerate the passages to the westward ; they last for several days together, with a clear sky overhead, and a dense red haze near the horizon. We experienced both in the Conway in February, 1822. The first, which was off Papagayo on the 12th, carried us 230 miles to the W.N.W. ; but the gale we met in crossing the Gulf of Tehuantepec on the 24th, 25th, and 26th, was so hard that we could show no sail, and were drifted off to the S.S.W. more that 100 miles. A ship ought to be well prepared on these occasions, for the gale is not only severe, but the sea, which rises quickly, is uncommonly high and short, so ab to strain a ship exceedingly. From Acapulco to San Bias, what are called land and sea breezes blow ; but, as far as my experience goes, during the whole of March, they scarcely deserve that name. They are described as blowing from N.W. and W. during the day, and from N.E. at night ; whence it might be inferred, that a shift of wind, amounting to eight points, takes place between the day and night breezes. But, during the whole distance between Acapulco and San Bias, together with about 100 miles east of Acapulco, which we worked along, hank for hank, we never found, or very rarely, that a greater shift could be reckoned on than four points. With this, however, and the greatest diligence, a daily progress of from SO to 50 miles may be made. Such being the general state of the winds on this coast, it is necessary to attend to the following directions for making a passage from the eastward : — On leaving Panama for Realejo or Sonsonate, come out direct to the north-westward of the Isla del Rey ; keep from 20 to 30 leagues off the shore as far as Cape Blanco de Nicoya ; and on this passage advantage must be taken of every shift of wind to get to the north-westward. From Cape Blanco hug the shore, in order to take advantage of the north-easterly winds which prevail close-in. If a papagayo (as the strong breeze out of that gulf is called) be met with, the passage to Sonsonate becomes very short. From Sonsonate to Acapulco, keep at the distance of 20, or, at most, CO THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 55 30 leagues from the coast. We met with very strong currents running to the eastward at this part of the passage ; but whether by keeping farther in, or farther out, we should have avoided them, I am unable to say. The above direction is that usually held to be tlie best by the old coasters. i • . If, when off the Gulf of Tehuantepec, any of the hard breezes, which go by that name, should come off, it is advisable, if sail can be carried, to ease the sheets off, and run well to the westward, without seeking to make northing ; westing being, at all stages of- that passage, by far the most difficult to accomplish. On approaching Acapulco, the shore should be got hold of, and the land and sea breezes turned to account. This passage in summer is to be made by taking advantage of the difference in direction between the winds in the night and the winds in the day. During some months, the land winds, it is said, come more off the land than at others, and that the sea breezes blow more directly on shore ; but in March we seldoi.i found a greater difference than four points ; and, to profit essentially by this small change, constant vigilance and activity are indispensable. The sea breeze sets in, with very little variation as to time, about noon, or a little before, and blows with more or less strength, till the evening. It was usually freshest at two o'clock ; gradually fell after four ; and died away as the sun went down. The land breeze was by no means so regular as to its periods or its force. Sometimes it came off in the first watch, but rarely before midnight, and often not till the morning, and was then generally light and uncer- tain. The principal point to be attended to in this navigatien is, to have the ship so placed at the setting in of the sea breeze, that she shall be able to make use of the whole of it on the port tack, before closing too much with the land. If this be accomplished, which a little ex- perience of the periods renders easy, the ship will be near the shore just as the sea breeze has ended, and there she will remain in the best situa- tion to profit by the land wind when it comes ; for it not only comes off earlier to a ship near the coast, but is stronger, and may always be taken advantage of to carry the ship off to the sea breeze station before noon of the next day. These are the best directions for navigating on this coast which I have been able to procure : they are drawn from various sources, and, when- ever it was possible, modified by personal experience. I am chiefly indebted to Don Manuel Luzurragui, master attendant of Guayaquil, for the information they contain. In his opinion, were it required to make a passage from Panama to San Bias, without touching at any intermediate port, the best way would be to stretch well out, pass to the southward of Cocos Island, and then run with the southerly winds as far west as 9G° before hauling up for San Bias, so as to make a fair wind 5G SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR ii of the westerly breezes which belong to the coast. An experienced old pilot, however, whom I met at Panama, disapproved of this, and said, the best distance was 15 or 20 leagues all the way. In the winter months these passages are very unpleasant, and it is indispensable that the whole navigation be much further off shore, excepting only between Acapulco and San Bias, when a distance of 10 to 12 leagues will be sufficient. The return passages from the west are always much easier. In the period called here the summer, from December to May, a distance of 30 to 50 leagues ensures a fair wind all the way. In winter, it is advisable to keep still further off, say 100 leagues, to avoid the calms, and the incessant rains, squalls, and lightnings, which everywhere prevail on the coast at this season. Don Manuel Luzurragui advises, during winter, that all ports on this coast should be made to the southward and eastward, as the currents in this time of the year set from that quarter. If it were required to return direct from San Bias to Lima, a course must be shaped so as to pass between the Island of Cocos and the Galapagos, and to the south-eastward, till the land be made a little to the southward of the equator, between Cape Lorenzo and Cape St. Helena. From thence work along-shore as far as Point Aguja, in lat. 6° S., after which work due S., on the meridian of that point, as far 11^° S., and then stretch in-shore. If the outer passage were to be attempted from San Bias, it would be necessary to run to 25° or 30° S. across the trade, which would be a needless waste of distance and time. Such general observations as the foregoing, on a navigation still im- perfectly known, are perhaps better calculated to be useful to a stranger than detailed accounts of passages made at particular seasons. For, although the success of a passage will principally depend on the navi- gator's own vigilance in watching for exceptions to the common rules, and on his skill and activity in profiting by them, yet he must always be materially aided by a knowledge of the prevalent winds and weather. As many persons, however, attach a certain degree of value to actual observations made on coasts little frequented, although the period in which they may have been made be limited ; I have given in the two following notices, a brief abstract of the Conway's passages from Panama to Acapulco, and from Acapulco to San Bias. The original notes from whence they are taken are too minute to interest any person not actually proceeding to that quarter of the world. Panama to Acapulco. — 5th of February to 1th of March, 1822 (30 days). — We sailed from Panama on the 4th of February, and anchored on that afternoon at the Island of Taboga, where we filled up our water. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. Next evening, the 5th, we ran out of the bay with a fresh N.N.W. wind, and, at half-past two in the morning of the 6th, rounded Point Mala, and hauled to the westward. As the day advanced, the breeze slackened, and drew to the southward. In 24 hours, however, we had run 1 40 miles, and were entirely clear of the bight of Panama. It cost us nearly six days more before we came abreast of Cape Blanco de Nicoya -, at first we had light winds trom S.S.W., then a moderate breeze from N.N.W., which backed roui^d to the eastward, and was followed by a calm : during each day we had the wird from almost every point of the compass, but light and uncertain. Between the 11th «iid 12th, we passed Cape Blanco de Nicoya, with afresh breeze from S.S.E. and then S.S.W., which shifted suddenly to the northward, afterwards to the N.N.E., where it blew fresh for upwards of 24 hours, and enabled us to run more than 230 miles to the W.N.W. in one day. This breeze, vvhich is known by the name of paj)agayo, failed us after passing the gulf of the same name, and we then came within the influence of adverse currents. On reaching the longitude of 92° W., on the 16th, we were set S. 16°. W., 77 miles ; on the 17th, N. 16 miles; on the 18th, E. 51 miles; on the 19th, S. 78°. E., 63 miles; on the 20th, S. 62°. E., 45 miles; on the 21st, S. 87°. E., 17g miles ; all of which we experienced between 91° and 93° W., at the distance of 20 or 30 leagues from the shore ; meanwhile we had N.N.E. and northerly winds, and calms. After these currents slackened, we made westing as far as 93^°, by help of N.N.E. and easterly winds. On the 22nd, 23rd, and 24th, we were struc^ling against north-westerly winds off" Guatemala, between 14° and 15.^° north latitude. This brought us up to the top of the bay of Tehuantepec at sunset of the 24th ; we then tacked and stood to the westward. The weather at this time looked threatening ; the sky was clear overhead, but all round the horizon there hung a fiery and por- tentous haze, and the sun set in great splendour ; presently the breeze freshened, and came to north by west, and befoi'e midnight it blew a hard gale of wind from north. This lasted, with little intermission, till six in the morning of the 26th, or about 30 hours. There was, during all the time, an uncommonly high short sea, which made the ship ex- tremely uneasy. The barometer fell from 29*94 to 29'81, between noon and four o'clock, p.m., but rose again as the gale freshened ; the sympiesometer fell twelve-hundredths. This gale drove us to the S.W by S., about 140 miles. A fine fresh breeze succeeded from N.N.E., which carried us 120 miles towards Acapulco, and left us in longitude 97^° W. and latitude 15° N., on the 27th. This was the last fair wind we had on the coast, all the rest of our passaf e, as far as San Bias, being made by dead beating. The distance from Acapulco was now less than 180 miles, but it cost us eight days' hard work to reach it, principally i 58 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR I' in owing to a steady drain of lee-current running E. by S., at the following daily rates, viz., 13, 16, 27, 37, 25, 10, 9, 7, and 9 miles. The winds were, meanwhile, from N.W. to N.N.W., with an occasional spurt from S.E. and S., and several calms. We had not yet learned the most effectual method of taking advantage of the small variation between the day and night winds. Acapulco to San Bias. — \Wi to 28th of March, 1822 (16 days). — This passage was considered good for the month of March, but in the latter days of December, and first of January, an English merchant made it in 10 days, having a fair wind offshore nearly all the day. A mer- chant brig, which passed Acapulco on the 6th of February, at the distance of 150 miles, was a fortnight in reaching Cape Corrientes, and nearly three weeks afterwards getting from thence to San Bias, a distance of only 70 miles. There is, however, reason to believe that the vessel was badly handled. It would be useless to give any more detailed account of this passage than there will be seen in tho preceding remarks. We generally got the sea breeze about noon, with which we laid up for a short time W.N. W., and then broke off to N. W., and so to the northward, towards the end of the breeze, as we approached the coast. We generally stood in within a couple of miles, and sometimes nearer, and sounded in from 15 to 25 fathoms. If the breeze continued after sunset, we made short tacks, in order to preserve our vicinity to the land, to be ready for the night wind. With this we generally lay ofFS.W., sometimes W.S.W. and W., but only for a short time. Af:er passing latitude 18°, the coast trended more to the northward, and a much larger leg was made on the port tack, before we were obliged to go about. As we approached Cape Corrientes, in latitude 20°, the land winds became more northerly, and the sea breezes more westerly ; so that, as the coast also trended off the iiorthward, a more rapid advance was made. On passing Cape Corrientes, the Tres Marias Islands came in sight ; and, if they be passed to the south-eastward, at the dist'vnce of eight or ten leagues, and a N.N.E. course steered, Piedro Branco de Mer, off San Bias, will be readily got sight of. This is a round, bold, white rock, in lat. 21° 34^ N. and long. iW o2f W., and being 130 feet high, forms an excellent land-mark. It lies exactly ll.f of a mile nearly due west from the harbour of San Bias, which is pointed out by another white rock, bearing S. 8.')° E. from the former. Close round this last rock, called Piedro de Ticrra, on the eastern side, lies the anchorage. The coast between Cape Corrientes and San Bias is full of deep and danger- ous rocky bights. It is little known, a id ought not to be ap])roached. Care should also be taken, in the night-tin\c, to keep clear of a small cluster of low rocks, which lie 22 miles to the N.N.W. of Cape Cor- THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 59 rientes. We made them in lat. 20° 43' N. and long. 105° 51' 4" W. Vancouver places them in lat. 20° 45' N., long. 105° 46' 55" W. ; an agreement sufficiently near. Our difference of longitude was ascertained by chronometers next day from San Bias, where the longitude was after- wards determined by the occultation of a fixed star. During our stay at San Bias, from the 28th of March to the ¥6th of June, we had light land-winds every night, and a moderately fresh breeze from west every day, with the thermometer always above 80°. Towards the end of the period, the sky, which had been heretofore clear, became overcast ; the weather lost its former serene character, becoming dark and unsettled; and, on the 1st of June, the periodical rains set in with great violence, accompanied by thunder and lightning, and fresh winds from due south. This was nearly a fortnight earlier than the average period. The heat and closeness of the weather increased greatly after the rains set in ; but although our men were much exposed, no sickness ensued, excepting a few cases of highly inflammatory fever. The town was almost completely deserted when we came away ; the inhabitants having, as usual, fled to Tepic and other inland towns, to avoid the discomfort and sickness which accompany the rains. As soon as the rains subside, in the latter end of October, or beginning of November, the people return, although that is the period described as being most unhealthy, when the ground is still moist, and the heat of the sun not materially abated. The coast from San Bias runs N.W. ^ N. a distance of about 120 miles. From San Bias to Mazatlan the coast is low (excepting near the entrance of Tecapan) and covered with trees, and is clear of all danger. About a mile from the shore, between Tecapan and Mazatlan, the soundings vary from 9 to 12 fathoms, fine sand. On the bar of Tecapan the water is very shallow, and in general breaks. The soundings increase gradually between San Bias and Mazatlan to oO fathoms at 20 miles from the coast. There is no danger whatever on the coast between Piedro de Mer and Mazatlan ; the lead is a sure guide. The Island of Isabella in lat. 21° 61' 15" N. and long. 105° 52' 3" W., is high and steep, and has no (hmger at the distance of a quarter of a mile. It is a small island, about a mile in length, with two remarkable needle rocks lying near the shore to the eastward of it. Beating up along the coast of Sonora, some low hills, of which two or three are shaped like cones, will be seen upon the sea-shore. The first of these is about, nine leagues south of Mazatlan, and within view of the island of El Creston, which forms the port of Mazatlan. A current sets to the southward along this coast, at the rate of 18 or 20 miles a day. MAZATLAN. — Mazatlan is a port very easily made. It is formed " r I 60 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR by a cluster of islands, to the southward of which is a long line of beach, with low land thickly covered with trees, running several miles in before it reaches the foot of the mountains, and continues the same as far to the southward as the north side of the bar of Tecapan, where the land is high. Its position is lat. 23° li' 40" N., and long. 106 22' 24" W. The port of Mazatlan at its entrance, is formed by the island of El Creston on its western, and the island of Vienado on the southern side. From the sea the former has nearly a regular ascent, the length of the island lying from east to west, where it terminates in an abrupt precipice, and is covered with small trees. It has from 8 to 10 fathoms water to within a few fathoms of it. The island of El Vienado has a very similar appearance, and is about half the height of El Creston Island, being partially covered with trees. These islands can be seen several miles before the land, at the back of the town, makes its appearance. The outer rock is situated well outside the roadstead, and forms nearly an equilateral triangle with the islands of El Creston and Vienado ; it is about eight feet high, and nearly the same breadth, and from seven to eight fathoms long from north to south ; there are five fathoms water close to it.* Within the port is a long sand, which extends out from the bottom of it, a great part of which is dry at low water, and is shoal for some distance to the south-east, extending nearly as far as the island El Vienado, with a boat channel between it and the island. The inner anchorage is to the westward of this sand. It is said that the b:.nk is increasing, and that the port has filled very much within a few years past. North of the island El Creston, and between it and the main land, is the Island of Gomer, which is low, and is separated from El Creston by a narrow boat-channel. From about the middle of Gomez a bar extends to the eastward across the port to the sand-bank already mentioned, on which there are said to be several patches of shoal water when the water was low, not having more than six feet on them. Inside the bar the water deepens, and close up to the town, there are said to be from two and a half to three fathoms, with a sandy bottom. When the wind blows strong from the N.W., a short chop of a sea heaves in between the Island of Gomez and Point Calandare, although the distance they are apart is short, but by anchoring, as already mentioned, opposite Creston, most of it is avoided. In the rainy season it is very unsafe to lay inside, as gales come on from the southward, which bring in a heavy sea. Vessels of all sizes • It is rifijlit to iiientioii that tlui above directions of Ciiptnin Mast(?r8 do not corrcsiHUid in iniiny important particulart* with thn rcc(Mit survey <»!' Captain Ut't-ch-y, II. N. The chart ought to be referred to as it will be found an invuluuide nssifstancc to those visiting the port. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 61 anchor in this season in the outer roads between the islands and the outer roads from which they can be got under weigh, and stand clear of the COi.St. To the northward of the present port of Mazatlan, about five miles, is the N.W. port of Mazatlan, a fine bay, well sheltered from N.W. winds by the Pajaros or Bird Islands. It was in the southern part of this bay that vessels formerly discharged their cargoes, but the present port being more secure, was established in its stead about thirty years since. The river is said to extend about 30 miles from the port, and passes within a few miles of the town of Mazatlan, where the custom-house formerly was, but was removed to the present port a short time since, and as all business is transacted at the town of Ragosa ^commonly called Mazatlan), the old town is fast falling to decay. The watering-place for shipping is a small distance up a 'creek, on the east side of the river. Wood for fuel can be had in abundance. Captain Beechey says : — " The anchorage at Mazatlan, at the mouth of the Gulf of California, in the event of a gale from the south-westward, is more unsafe than that at San Bias, as it is necessary to anchor so close to the shore, that there is not room to cast and make a tack. Merchant-vessels moor here with the determination of riding out the weather, and for this purpose go well into the bay. Very few accidents, however, have occurred, eithex here or at San Bias, as it scarcely ever blows from the quarter to which these roads are open between May and December. Having approached the coast about the latitude of 23° 11' N., Creston and some other steep rocky islands will be seen. Creston is the highest of these, and may be further known by two small islands to the northward of it, having a white chalky appearance. Steer for Creston, and pass between it and a small rock to the southward, and when inside the bluff, luff up, and anchor immediately in about seven and a half fathoms, the small rock about S. 17° E., and the bluff W. by S. Both this bluff and the rock may be passed within a quarter of a cable's length ; the rock has from 12 to 15 fathoms within 30 yards of it in every direction. It is, however, advisable to keep at a little distance from the bluff, to escape the eddy winds. After having passed it, be careful not to shoot much to the northward of the before-mentioned bearing (W. by S.), as the water shoals suddenly, or to reach so far to the eastward as to open the west tangent of the peninsu/a with the eastern point of a low rocky island S.W. of it, as tliat will be near a dangerous rock, nearly in the centre of the anchorage, with only 11 feet water on it at low spring-tides, and with deep water all round it. I moored a buoy upon it, but should this be washed away, its situation may be known by the eastern extreme of the before- r; ;, I 1 t i ! i 62 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR lt',i! mentioned lo *v rocky island, between which and Battery Peak, there a channel for small vessels, being in one with a wedge-shaped pro- tuberance on the western hillock of the northern island (about three miles north of Creston), and the N. W. extremity of the high rocky island to the eastward of the anchorage being a little open with a rock off the mouth of the river in the N.E. The south tangent of this island will also be open a little (4°), with a dark tabled hill on the second range of mountains in the east. These directions will, I think, be quite intelligible on the spot. The winds at Mazatlan generally blow fresh from the N.W. in the evening ; the sea-breeze springs up about ten in the forenoon, and lasts until two o'clock in the morning. It is high water at this place at 9h. 5 a.m., full and change, rise seven feet spring tide. GUAYM AS. — From Mazatlan the coast runs to the north-westward to 27° 53' 50'', the latitude of Port Guaymas, forming the eastern side of the Gulf of California, and is almost entirely unknown. The Port of Guaymas, in Lower California, was surveyed in 1840 by M. Fisquet, of the French Navy, a copy of which is on our chart of the coast. It is a small port about three miles in extent, and has numerous islands in it, affording good shelter to vessels drawing from 12 to 15 feet water. It is considered to be one of the best harbours in the gulf. The longitude is 1 10° 49' 13" W., and variation 12° 4' E. The rise of tide is three and a half feet at ordinary tides, but is dependent upon the winds, which, when blowing strongly from the S.W., raise it to 10 and 11 feet. This harbour was visited in 1826, by Lieut. Hardy, R.N., who says, " The harbour is, beyond all question, the best in the Mexican dominions ; it is surrounded by land on all sides, and protected from the winds by high hills. It is not very extensive, nor is the water above five fathoms deep abreast of the pier; but there are deeper soundings further off. It would shelter a large number of vessels. The entrance is defended by the Island of Pajaros, on which, at the proper season of the year, is found a prodigious quantity of eggs, deposited by gulls, so that its surftice becomes completely whitened bv the vestiges which they leave behind them. During the dry season, the hills which surround the harbour present a sterile appearance, truly unpleasing to the eye, and give but a bad idea of the prosperity of the town ; while the size of the houses, the number of its inhabitants, or the want of cattle in its neighbourhood, do not tend to remove that impression. The town is but a miserable place, that is, as far as regards the houses, which arc built of mud, having flat roofs, covered with mould, so that, durhig a hard rain, the inmates may take a shower- bath without going THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 63 scs. out of doors. The rafters are whole palm-trees ; and there is a large kind of humble-bee which perforates them with the greatest ease, so that, by degrees, these great bores, which serve the insect for a nest, so weaken the rafters, that the lodger may sometimes find a grave without going to the churchyard, the roof falling for want of due support, which has since happened to the very house wherein we then resided." The following notes made on a passage from San Bias to Mazatlan, are by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R.N. : — " Leave San Bias with the first of the land breeze, and after passing Piedro de Mer, endeavour to steer such a course as to be enabled to make a good in-shore tack with the sea-breeze on the morrow, taking care not to stand closer to the shore than eight fathoms in a large vessel, or five fathoms in a smaller one ; or, should the sea breeze be found to have much northing, stand well off, when a con- tinued wind instead of the land and sea breezes will be obtained, and the strong southerly set in-shore be avoided. The Collbigwood made the in- shore passage in April, 1846, and had light airs with frequent calms, being generally too far off shore at night to benefit by the land breeze ; she consequently was five days going 120 miles, whilst the Spy did it in two and a half days by going well to seaward. The misnamed port of Mazatlan is easily recognised by the two bluff headlands which form the entrance to the river, the northern and more conspicuous of the two, Creston, being an island, and affording a little shelter from the northerly breezes which prevail from January to May. To the westerly and southern breezes it is perfectly open, and has the only recommendation of being good holding-ground. The coasters run up the river off the new town of Mazatlan, which has risen to considerable importance within a very recent period, notwithstanding the advantages it labours under from the paucity of supplies, both animal and vegetable; and from water being both bad and scarce. Mazatlan is now the outlet for the products of the valuable mining district of San Sebastian, and imports directly and indirectly large cargoes of English goods. The general healthiness of the climate, as compared with its more ancient neighbour San Bias, has materially tended to an increase of its population. The town, from being built on the crest of some heights, clear of mangrove and swamp, had an air of cleanliness and pure ventilation rare in Spanish America. Vessels must invariably moor in the roadstead, open hawse to the W.S.W., and too close a berth to Creston Island is not advisable, as the squalls sweep over it with great strength. The CoUingivood drove, though she had 50 fathoms on each cable. Watering is attended with great risk at all times in this place, especially at full and change, the boats having to cross the heavy surf of the bar, formed between a long spit which runs down the centre of the river, and .' f ■ \ • fi' ■k 64. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR I 1 ' a bank joining it from the south shore. Several boats and lives are annually lost here. In pulling in care should be taken to cross the surf pretty close to the middle ground ; and when through the first rollers, to pull over to the south shore, and keep it on board up to the watering- place. In coming out, no casks ought to be allowed in the head sheets, every thing depending upon the buoyancy of the boat ; inattention to this point, caused the loss of two lives, to my own knowledge. The water is procured from a number of wells dug by seamen, on a low alluvial island, formed on a quicksand in the bed of the river ; none of them are consequently more than ten feet deep. The water is by no means sweet, being merely sea water, which undergoes a partial purifica- tion in filtering through the soil. Supplies of all sort come from the neighbourhood of San Bias ; and as the bullocks are driven that long distance, and on arrival they are instantly killed, from the want of grass, the beef is necessarily lean and bad. Pork, fish, and oysters are however plentiful; vegetables are scarce. The river abounds in turtle of excellent quality ; wood of various descriptions, principally hard, was plentiful, and at a short distance oak and cedar might be obtained. Old Mazatlan, which lies about 20 miles up the river, was well known to ancient navigators, as far back as 1 587. " Master Thomas Cavendish in the talle shippe Desire, 120 tons, refreshed his gallant company before cruising off" Cape Lucas, for a Spanish galleon; and Don Sebastian Vizcaino, in an expedition to convert the Californians to the Catholic faith, recruited his squadron in the Bahia de Mazatlan." THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. G5 ■t i THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA. >, California was formerly subject to Spain, and afterwards to Mexico ; but in 1848, the northern part of it, called Alta California, was annexed, by treaty with Mexico, to the territories of the United States of North America. The country is naturally divided into two parts, the Old or Lower, and the New or Upper. Old California comprehends the long peninsula, between the Gulf and the Pacific Ocean, and extends about 700 miles in length, with a breadth varying from 30 to 100, comprising an area of about 38,000 square miles. A chain of rocky mountains, not exceeding 5,000 feet in height, runs through it from south to north ; and the surface of the country consists of groups of bare rocks, broken by ravines and hills, interspersed with barren sandy tracts, forming altogether one of the most barren and unattractive regions within the temperate zone. The climate is excessively dry and hot, and violent hurricanes are frequent ; timber is very scarce, and the greater part of the country is incapable of producing a single blade of corn. Some sheltered valleys only produce maize, and a variety of fruits, as dates, figs, &c., which are preserved and exported ; wine is also made, and a kind of spirit is dis- tilled from the must. Cattle arc somewhat numerous ; wolves, foxes, deer, goats, snakes, lizards, and scorpions, are among the wild animals. The pearl fishery in the gulf has been famed from its first discovery ; at present, it produces annually pearls to the value of from 500 to 1000 dollars. Pearls, tortoise-shell, hides, dried beef, dried fruits, cheese, and soap, constitute all the exports, which are mostly sent to Mazatlan and San Bias in small coasting-vessels. The people are a feeble and indolent set of Indians, whom the Jesuits have partially converted to Christianity; but they are little advanced beyond the rudest stage of savage life, and depend for their subsistence on hunting and fishing, with the spontaneous produce of the soil. Upper or New California extends from the Pacific Ooean to the Rocky mountains; but the only tract inhabited by European settlers is the narrow strip of land along the coast of the Pacific, which is bounded in- ward by the maritine range of hills, at the distance of about 40 miles from the sea. The surface of this region is very diversified, and consists of m SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR I I, gli' ■t''i|''V. M I i h: fi li sf hills and plains of considerable extent ; along the coast there are several good harbours, of which San Francisco, in lat. 38°, is one of the largest and best on the west coast of America. The rainy season is in winter, from November till February. During the rest of the year there is no rain, but a few showers fall in some places. In summer the heat is very great. The country offers, nevertheless, a striking contrast to the penin- sula. There is a profusion of forest trees on the western side of the mountains along the coast ; and many fine fruits are easily cultivated, though few are indigenous. Among these is a species of vine, which pro- duces grapes of considerable size, and so plentiful, that considerable quan- tities of brandy are distilled from them. Among the wild animals are reckoned the American lion and tiger, buffaloes, stags, roes, elks, bears, wolves, jackals, wild cattle, foxes, polecats, otters, beavers, hares, rabbits, &c. Birds of various kinds are exceedingly abundant. But the great and most important article of produce is black cattle, the multiplication of which has been really prodigious. In 70 years the number had increased from 2S to 210,000 branded cattle, and probably 100,000 un- branded ; and it is found necessary to slaughter 60,000 annually to keep down the stock. Sheep have increased with nearly the same rapidity, but are at present of little importance to the trade of the country. Between the maritime chain and the rocky mountains is a dry or sandy plain or desert, 700 miles in length, by 100 in breadth at its south end, and 200 at the north, which is traversed by the Rivers Colorado and Gila, and forms the eastern limit of the inhabited, and indeed only habitable part of the country. The natives were a poor, filthy, pusillanimous set of Indians, in the most primitive state of barbarism, except those who have been converted nominally to Christianity, and who have been taught a few of the simpler arts and practices of civilized life. These resided in missions, where the men were employed in agriculture, or in the ware- houses or workshops of the mission, while the women were occupied in spinning, grinding corn, and other domestic duties. They were in fact slaves to the monks who possessed the missions ; and the greatest part of the land, and especially that to the south of Monterey, was in the hands of the missionaries. Since the annexation to the United States, a most extraordinary productive gold region has been discovered in the northern part of Upper California, commencing near the mouth of the Sacramento River, in 39° N. 'at., about 100 miles N.E. of the Bay of San Francisco, and extending up the main valley northwards, and into several side valleys eastwards. Almost the whole population has taken to the " diggings," and the news of the discovery has attracted crowds of immigrants from both America and Europe. The earliest accounts we have met with of the discovery of gold in California, are preserved in " Burney's Collection of Voyages in the N THE WEST COAST OF NORTH \MERICA. 67 Pacific." It has been asserted that the discovery was made in the middle of the last century ; and, Capt. Shelvocke is also stated to have first found it a century and a quarter ago. Bumey has, however, preserved an account, which we quote here of the discovery of it, by the early Spaniards, in 1539, just 20 years after Cortez landed at Vera Cruz. That the existence of the rich district was known, is, therefore, evident, although its exact locality remained locked in secrecy, limited no doubt, but not to those who had contemplated the Mexican war, and its intended results. Bumey has preserved the history of the journey of Friar Marcos de Niza, containing the account to which we allude. " From Petatlan, Friar Marcos de Niza, with his followers, travelled along the coast, where people came to him from islands ; and, he saw some that came from the land where the Marquis Cortez had been. At the end of a desert of four days journey, he found Indians who had not knowledge of the Christians, the desert obstructing communication between them and the countries to the south. " These people," says the friar, "entertained me exceeding courteously, gave me great store of victuals, and sought to touch my garments, and called me Hayota, which, in their language, signified 'a man come from Heaven.' " — The principal motive of this undertaking, however, was not one of a pious or spiritual nature. It was to spy out the land, whether it was good or bad, and to bring of the fruit, that his countrymen might know if they should go up and possess it. " These Indians," says the friar, " I advertised by my interpreter, ac- cording to my instructions, in the knowledge of our Lord God in Heaven, and of the Emperor. I sought information of other countries, and they told me that four or five days journey within the country, at the foot of the mountain, there was a large plain, wherein were many great towns, and people clad in cotton. I shewed to them metals which I carried with me, to learn by them what rich metals were in the land. They took the mineral of gold and told me that thereof were vessels among the people of that plain ; that they had thin plates of gold, wherewith they scraped off their sweat; that the walls of their temples were covered therewith, and that they used gold in all their household vessels. " I sent Estevanico another way, and commanded him to go directly northward, to see if he could learn of any notable thing which we sought to discover ; and I agreed with him, that if he found knowledge of any people, and rich country, which were of great importance, he should go no further ; but should return in person, or send me tokens : to wit, if it were a mean thing, he should send me a white cross, one handful long ; if it were a great matter, he should send me a great cross, &c." Estevanico, in his new route, very soon received information concerning f2 68 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR .!«!■' •;if^ the seven cities, and that the nearest was Cevola, which was said to be distant thirty days* journey.* Towards Cevola, Estevanico directed his steps, sending messengers to the father ; who, the fourth day after their separation, received from him " a great cross, as high as a man." At the sight of this token, and on hearing the reports of the messengers, Friar Marcos set forward, following the steps of his intelligencer. The friar relates that, in this journey, by a small deviation from a direct route, he came in :3lght of the sea coast, in 35° north, which he saw stretched from thence to the west. Giving him credit for speaking to the best of his knowledge, it cannot be supposed that he had other means of estima- ting his latitude than by guess, or that \xc saw any sea coast beyond the Gulf of California. — Nautical Magazine, Feb. 1849. On the western side of the Gulf of California is the bay of La Paz, having the Espiritu Santu Islands at the entrance, which afford good pro- tection from the swell of the sea. Here is the harbour of Pichilingue, in which small vessels only can winter, the water being shallow. In this harbour, it is said, there are some excellent pearl beds. There is a con- siderable quantity of land in its neighbourhood, which produces fruit and vegetables of an excellent quality. Both ^ tive and mine gold is brought from the Real of San Antonio, about four leagues to the W.N.W. ; the metal, however, is not very abundant, nor is its quality very good. The inhabitants are chiefly the descendants of foreign seaman who have inter- married with the native women. For remarks on this bay, see the remarks by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, in the Appendix, Between La Paz and the island Del Carmen is San Pedro and other islets, upon which garnets are said to be found. To the northward of La Paz is the mission of Loretto, formerly a place of considerable trade, but now sufiered to go to decay. It was once the capital of Lower California, and was founded in the year 1698, by Don Juan Caballero y Osis, who wrote a long account of it, and considered its locality as one of great importance. The anchorage is open to winds from North, N.W. and S.E., and when these prevail, the heavy sea renders it by no means safe for a vessel to attempt riding them out. Carmen Island affords shelter from the eastward, and the mainland from the westward. The following description of Loretto was written in 1826 by Lieut. Hardy, R.N. " Loretto stands in a valley of about two or three thousand feet wide, surrounded by wild and sterile mountains, of which that called " La • Herrera mentions the same distance. He writes the name Cibola, Deo. 6, 1. 7. c. 7. Ortelius, in his chart, No. 5. Americce, Sivc Novi Orbis, places Cevola in 36" north latitude, and about 7° of longitude east, from the mouth of the river Colorado. Theatrum Grids Terrarum. Edit. 1584. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. Giganta" is the highest and least picturesque.* There are two gardens in the place in which the vine, peach, fig, quince, and date, are cultivated. A considerable quantity of wine is annually made, notwithstanding the fruit is common property to all the inhabitants. Peaches and pears are dried as well as figs ; the dates are preserved ; and these fruits are after- terwards exchanged for wheat and Indian com, brought to the mission in small schooners from the port of Guaymas. The situation of Loretto is in a valley of very limited extent, in which there is space only for the town and two gardens ; and there being in consequence no possibility of raising either wheat or maize, the inhabi- tants are obliged to depend upon Sonora, almost for existence. Another circumstance renders the tenure upon which they exist very precarious. I remarked that the hills which surrounded the town are chiefly composed of primitive rock, granite, and hard sand-stone, all intermingled with scarcely any appearance of soil upon them. They are thus capable of absorbing but little moisture ; and during the heavy rains, which happily do not occur more frequently than once in five or six years, the rush of water through every part of the town, as it comes down the ravine, is so great, that instances have been known of some of the houses having been actually carried away. To prevent the recurrence of this danger, the former Franciscan friars, many years ago, erected a stone wall, to break the force of the water, and give it a new direction towards the sea. In successive years the rains washed this barrier away ; and another was built, which by the returning floods was washed down also, and at present there is but a slight trace of its ever having existed. No attempts have been made to restore it ; and on some future day it may be expected that the inhabitants will be seen floating down the gulf! Although the natives are perfectly sensible of their perilous situation, the love of their dwellings is so great as to extinguish all fear for the future, and all desire to change their residence. The inhabitants of Loretto are of a dingy, opaque, olive-green, which shows that there is no friendly mixture in the blood of the Spaniard and the Indian ; or it may be, that by degrees they are returning to the colour of the aborigines. They appear to be the same squalid, flabby, mixed race, which is observed in almost every part of the Mexican coasts. I did not see a good-looking person among them, always excepting the commandant and ci-devant deputy !" At about 14 leagues to the southward of Loretto, between it and La Paz, is a small bay, named La Bahia Escondida, in which vessels of a moderate draught of water may anchor in perfect security. * This mountain is estimated to be 4,560 feet liigh. It is of volcanic origin, as is all the rest of the chain which runs through the Californian peiiiuisulii. 1 70 SAILING DIRECTIONS TOR !!' The Placeres de Perla, or Pearl Beds, in the neighbourhood of Loretto, are the following : — the south-west point of the Isla del Carmen, Puerto Balandra, Puerto Escondido, Arro}'o Hondo, La Isla Coronada, Tierra Firme, San Bruno, La Piedra Negada, and San Marcus. The four first are situated to the south, and the latter five to the northward of Loretto, at which place, says Lieut. Hardy, in 1826, the Virgin and the custom- house receive their proportion of the pearl fishery, which for the last 30 years has not exceeded, as I am informed, the value of 70 dollars annually. From Loretto to Moleje Bay, a distance of about 100 miles, there are soundings near the land of 20 to 30 fathoms, and the coast offers several good anchorages. At three leagues to the northward of Loretto is the little Island of Coronados, under which there is shelter from the N.E. From hence, following the coast to the northward, there are several small bays marked on the charts. MOLEJE BAY. — This bay is of considerable extent, and the water in it varies considerably in depth. There are numerous islands and small harbours in it, and it is said that there are many shoals scattered over its surface, and that in no part is there good holding-ground ; yet, a small vessel may be lashed alongside some of the islets with perfect safety. In the bay, there is said to be an excellent pearl-bed, but its existence wants confirmation. On the western coast of the bay of Moleje, there is a well of fresh water, remarkable for the water rising and falling with the tide, which is here about 18 inches. It was examined by Lieut. Hardy, in 1826, who ascertained that there was a communication between the mountain and the well, which is merely a hole of 12 inches (?) diameter, and of the same depth, situated close to high water mark. It is naturally formed, and is a great accommodation to travellers, being the only fresh water between the missions of Loretto and Moleje ; so that it serves as a sort of half-way- house. Its rise and fall depend on the elevation of the sea, which, when it ebbs, allows the fresh water (which is of excellent quality) to filter through the porous sand-stone in which the well is formed. A little to the north-westward of Moleje Bay, is the mission of Moleje, which can only be discerned from the sea by a small hill on the coast, named Sombrerito, from its resemblance to a hat. The entrance to the harbour is very shallow, and will only admit the entrance of very small vessels. The coast is whitened with surf, and the shallow water extends about two miles from the shore. Lieut. Hardy says that " being abreast of Sombrerito, with the wind easterly, we bore up, and stood directly for the coast, with our head about a quarter of a point to the southward of that hill, in order to avoid a reef of rocks that runs off" from it for some distance. When within a hundred and fifty yards of the shore, Som- THE WEST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. TI brerito then bearing off us N.N.W., and being in-shore of the reef, we hauled up, and stood for the centre of the hill, till within 35 yards of it, when we dropped our anchor, and ran out warps to the shore on both sides of us, to prevent the vessel from either drifting or swinging, for which there is no room. The water on the bar is so shallow, that we touched twice in going over it ; but as it was composed of only soft saad, the veiisel received no injury, although it blew fresh from the eastward, with a heavy swell on the shore. In the situation where we ultimately moored, there are three fathoms close by the hill, and it is well sheltered from wind and sea. There is a small rivulet here, extending above the mission, which is at the distance of two leagues from the coast. From the sea, the hill of Sombrerito hides all appearance of the ravine ; but from the shore, the date, olive, and peach-trees, as well as plantations of vines and of maize, present a cheerful show of verdure by no means common in Lower Cali- fornia. About the distance of a league from the mouth of the rivulet, the water is fresh, and I took advantage of it to re-fill our empty casks." This mission of Santa Rosalia de Moleje was established in the year 1700 by the Marquis de Villa Puente, as it is supposed, and its distance from Loretto is about 45 leagues. It produces wine, spirits, and soap, which are exported chiefly from the capital ; besides grapes, dates, figs, and olives, all of good quality. These form the principal branches of its commerce. About six or eight leagues from Moleje, at some distance /rom the shore side, is the mission of La Madalena, established about tlie same period as the former ; but by whom is not known. Its productions are the same as those '>f the Moleje ; but the quality of the spirits which are made from the mezcal, growing wild about the mountains in its neighbour- hood, is said to be the best of any made in Lower California. Its population is about equal to that of Loretto. Nearly opposite the mission of Moleje is the Island of San Marcus, which is small, and is said to have a pearl-fishery in its vicinity. Between it and the mission is the small Islet of Santa Ines. Opposite San Marcus, at the distance of two leagues from the coast, is the mission of San Ignatio, established in the year 1725, which is a wretched place, and the inhabitants of which are stated by a recent writer to have the ap- pearance of belonging more to the next world than to this. At about 12 or 14 leagues to the north-westward of this mission there is said to be an exhausted volcano, on one of the hills named Las Tres Virgines, which, however, still produces sulphur. These three hills extend as far as the Gulf of Moleje, where they end in a bluff point named alter them. ,i ^ 12 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR il". The following, by Lieut. Hardy, will give an idea of the difficulty of sailing out of the harbour of the mission of Moleje : — " Not having been successful in my search for divers, I determined to proceed to sea. The wind was still dead upon the shore ; and as it was not possible to attempt taking the vessel out through the channel, without her being inevitably driven on to the beach, I sent the boat ahead with a rope, and we suc- ceeded in towing the Bruja through the midst of the rocks, which were perfectly distinguishable at intervals by the heave and fall of the waves, which enabled us to avoid them. Having got fairly outside of them, we clapped on sail, shaped our course along shore, and in two hours time went tlirough the passage formed on the left by the low point of Santa lues, and on the right by the island named after the same saint, carrying four and five fathoms' water. Having doubled the point, we came to anchor on the south-west side of the Island of San Marcus, round which I liad been given to understand pearls had been formerly fished. We found, however, only a few unproductive shells. On this island there are numbers of wild goats, and I sent the captain and a part of the crew to hunt them." On the Island of San Marcus there is abundance of talc, a soft marble, and pumice-stone of excellent quality. There are two kinds of the latter, white and yellow ; but only the former is good. One of the hills is almost entirely composed of talc. At the northern extremity of the island there is good fresh water. The coast of the main land, within Marcus Island, is iron-bound, and affords no shelter whatever. At about 40 miles from Moleje mission, is a small bay, named Thomson's Bay, in which you may occasionally anchor, but it is open to every wind except the south-east. From Marcus Island the Gulf of California as far as its head, into which falls the Rio Colorado, is but little known, being seldom visited. A little to the northward of Thomson's Bay are some islands named Sal si V\nidnis((jiet back if you can), in the vicinity of which the current runs strongly, sometimes to the south-eastward, and occasionally in the opposite direction. The larger island is about seven miles in circum- ference, and very mountainous. The hills are chiefly composed of a red stone, which has very much the appearance of cinnabar. Near these islands are some others, named Las x\nimas and San Lorenzo, by which a very dangerous passage is formed. In about lat. 'Z{f the long and narrow island of Del Angele de la Guardia, forms in conjunction with the coast a channel in which mmibers of whales have been seen, and hence named the Canal de Ballenas. Opposite to the island, and nine leagues inland, is the mission of San Francisco de Horja. KIO COLOKADO. — This river fulls into the northern extremity of the not the THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. of the Gulf of California, after a course of G40 miles; but its sources liave not been explored. The depth at its mouth is not more than six feet, and the breadth scarcely exceeds 200 yards. Sixty miles from the sea it is joined by the Rio Gila, which rises from the Sierra Mongollon, in the Rocky Mountains, about 34° 20* N. lat. The country through which these rivers flow is a sandy desert, destitute of good water, and subject to excessive heat. The coast on the western side of the entrance to the river, for a very considerable distance before reaching the river, appears to be composed of a loose sandy soil, easily raised by the wind. It has, in consequence, been named " Smoky Coast." The three mouths of the Rio Colorado are formed by two islands, by the coast of Sonora to the eastwaicl, and by the coast of California to the westward. The largest of the two islands has been named Montagu Island, in compliment to Admiral Sir George Montagu, G.C.B. On the western side of the river there are forests of the thorny shrub named Mesquite, an inferior species of the Quebrahacha ; and on the banks there are a profusion of stems and large branches of the willow, poplar, and acacia, which have been brought down by floods, and are now permanently lodged in their present situations. On the eastern side of the river there are also the remains of these trees, but there is no other vegetation excepting a sort of dwarf reed. From the mast-head nothing on this side is distinguishable, besides the waters of the Rio Colorado and Rio Gila, but an interminable plain ; and to the westward rises the Cor- dillera, which extends from Cape St. Lucas, the southern extremity of Lower California. To the northward and eastward there is a long row of lofty trees which probably grow on the banks of the Rio Gila. The point of land dividing the Rio Colorado from the Gila is named Arnold's Point, and the one on the opposite side of the same beach is named Newburgh's Point. The Rio Colorado is of but little use to navigation, as although the tide rises JiO to 24 feet, the currents are so strong that it is always attended with danger to run in ; the rate is said to be at times as much as 10 or 12 miles an hour, and occasionally much more. The bed of the river is iilled with banks which are left dry at low water. When entering, the Cali- fornian coast must be kept on board to find the passage, which is narrow, and at low tide very shallow. Currents. — It may be remarked that in the Gulf of California, to the northward of Guaymas, during the prevalence of northerly winds, which continue from the latter end of October till the month of May, the currents set with the wind. The southerly winds commence in May, and arc accompanied with southerly currents. To the northward of Guaymas there are regular tides. t I II 74 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR B':^ r'jj' I f Cape St. Lucas, in lat. about 22° 52' N., and long. 109° 53' W., is of very moderate height, although a few leagues to the northward of it the land rises so high as to be seen at the distance of 20 leagues. When in this neighbourhood, it is recommended to iceep the lead constantly going, because that the low shore is occasionally hidden by the haze which frequently prevails even when the weather is clear out at sea. At the distance of nine leagues from the shore, there is a depth of 70 fathoms. CAPE ST. LUCAS, bearing S. 67", E., four leagues. From Capo St. Lucas the coast runs to the westward about eight miles to Cape Falso, so named from being frequently mistaken for the Cape. Cape St. Lucas is mentioned in the following terms by Captain Colnett : — " Our cruising ground was between the latitudes 23° and ^5°, and longitudes 112° and 113°, olf a remarkable mountain near Cape St. Lazarus, to which I have given the same name. I make it to be in lat. 25° 15', and long. 11° 20'. To the southward of it is very low land, till within a very few leagues of Cape St. Lucas, which is the south point of California, when the land rises to such an eminence, as to be seen at the distance of 20 leagues, but the cape itself is of very moderate height. Though the weather was fair and pleasant, it was so hazy while we were on this low and dangerous coast, as to require a continual employment of the lead. We frequently got soundings with 70 fathoms of line at the distance of nine leagues from the shore. I made the cape by the means of a number of observations of sun, moon, and stars, to be in lat. 22° 45' N., and long. 110° W." In the Bay of St. Lucas there is good anchorage, and shelter from westerly winds, but it is exposed to a dangerous and very heavy sea from the south-west. The soundings are very irregular, and the anchorage, by reason of its great depth in the centre, is completely on a Ice shore. At the village a small (juantity of provisions may be obtained. Captain Sir E. Beldier has remarked " that they were nearly making a sad mistake, after shortening sail, by finding after they cast in 10, they had no bottom with 88 fathoms, just us they were about tg let go the THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. to anchor. This shows the necessity of keeping the lead on the bottom before letting go an anchor. Tliis bay was first called Aguada Segura by the Spaniards, and after- wards altered by Vizcaino to that of San Barnabe, it being the festival of that saint when this navigator entered it, in 1G02. It is the same bay in which Cavendish landed his prisoners, 190 in number, when he anchored them with his prize, the Santa Ana, taken from the king of Spain, in 1587. Some Americans and Californians now reside there, who supply the whalers who annually resort there with water, wood, cattle, ve- getables, and fruit. The country is mountainous and sterile about the Cape, and the supplies are brought from the valley of San Jose, about 20 miles to the northward, which is well cultivated. The water, which is procured from the wells, is sweet when drawn, and is very bright, but is impregnated with muriate of soda and nitre, which pervade the soil. It consequently soon putrifies on board. It has been remarked in Captain Rogers's account of his voyage round the world, in 1710 : — '* This port is about a league to the eastward of a round, sandy, bald headland, which some take to be Cape San Lucas, be- cause it is the southernmost land. The entrance into the bay may be known by four high rocks, which appear like the Needles at the Isle of Wight, as you come from the westward. The two westernmost are in form of sugar-loaves, and the innermost of them has an arch, through which the sea makes its way. You must leave the outermost rock about a cable's length on your port head, and steer into the deepest part of the bay, being all bold, where you may anchor in from 10 to 25 fathoms depth. Here you may ride land-locked from all winds, save those between E. by N. and S.E. by S. Yet it would be but an ordinary road if the wind should come strong from the sea. The starboard side of the bay is the best anchoring-ground, where you may ride on a bank that has from 10 to 15 fathoms depth. The rest of this bay is very deep; and near the rocks on the port side going in there is no ground. Tliis is not a good recruiting place." MAGDALENA BAY, or rather GULF, is an extensive inland sea, aifording shelter; and probably water can be obtained in the winter season, considered to be between May and October. It has lately been surveyed by Captain Sir E. Belcher, ll.N., and by Captain Du Petit Thouars, in 18;J7. The entrance is about Sj miles wide, with rocks lining the shore on both sides, so that it: is reconnnended to keep as near the middle as pos- sible, where will be found from 12 to 18 fathoms, rocky bottom, with shells. When within, there will be found a similar depth on a bottom of sand and sheila. At the head of the bay there are numerous sand- banks which have not yet been examined. The back land is so very low 76 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR that it cannot be seen from the deck, when at the entrance. Captain Du Petit Thouars says : — " The high land of Cape St. Lazarus affords an excellent mark for making tlie land, as it can be seen at the distance of 10 or 12 leagues. The entrance of the bay is three miles wide and very brief. It presents no difFiculty, care only being taken not to go too near the south point, on account of a detached rock, on which the sea breaks, situated about half a mile from the point. In tacking, when within the bay, care ought to be taken to shun the Banc de la Venus, and you ought to hold yourself sufficiently far from the low land to the East and N.E. Anchorage can be obtained in the north-west part of the bay, or in the south part of it, according to the prevailing winds. The holding-ground is moderately good. The bay offers no resources, as there are neither houses, woods, nor water. Outside the bay, the current runs to the south, with a strength of about a third of a mile per hour. The tides are regular, and occasion very strong currents at the entrance of the bay. It is high water, on the days of full and change of the moon, at 7h. 37m. Variation of the compass 8° 15' E." From the above mentioned survey (Captain Du Petit Thouars) it would appear that the north extremity of Cape St. Lazarus is in lat. I CAl'E ST. LAZARUS, tearing about N W. by N. digtaut, 183 railes. B! .'I 21° 48' 20" N. and long. 112° IG' 28" W. It is very high land, and makes, from a distance, like an island, the country at the back, and to the northward and southward of it being very low. Commander Sir E. Belcher surveyed this bay in 1839, and has made the following remarks upon it: — " I was fully prepared to have found, as the name imported, an extensive bay; but on entering the heads, which are about two miles asunder, no land could be discerned from the deck, from north-west to north-east or east ; and evMi after entering, it was (juite a problem in tliis new sea where to seek for anchorage, our depths at iirsl, even near the shore, ranged from 17 to 30 fathoms. However, as the prevailing winds appeared to be westerly, I determined on beating to windward, in which it eventually proved I was correct. About 4 p.m. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 77 we reached a very convenient berth in 10 fathers, with a very sheltered position for our observatory. Preparations were immediately made for the examination of this extensive sea, or what I shall in future term the Gulf of Magdalena. It is probable that this part of the coast formerly presented three detached islands ; viz. St. Lazarus range, Magdalena range, and Marga- rita range, with one unnamed sand island, and numerous sand islets. It is not improbable that its estuaries meet those from La Paz, forming this portion of southern California, into an immense archipelago. The first part of our expedition led us up the northern branch of what held out some prospect of a fresh water river, particularly as frequent marks of cattle were noticed. In the prosecution of this part of our survey we noticed that the St. Lazarus range is only connected by a very narrow belt of sand between the two bays, and that the summits of some sand-hills were covered, in a most extraordinary manner, by piles of fragile shells, which resembled those found recent in the gulf. At eleva- tions of 50 and 60 feet, these minute and fragile shells were found perfect; but on the beaches, either seaward or within, not a shell was visible. This is the more extraordinary, as these sand wastes are con- stantly in motion, and drowning everything else, and yet these shells are always exposed ! On digging beneath them to erect marks, no beds of shells occurred, nothing but plain sand. It was further remarkable that they appeared to be collected in families, principally area, venus, cardium, and murex. When ostrea appeared, they were by them- selves. The cliffs throughout the gulf abound in organic remains, and I cannot but believe that the same cause has produced the above unaccountable phenomena, which I witnessed throughout a range of at least 30 miles. Having explored the westernmost estuary, about 17 miles north of our observatory, until no end appeared to its intricacies, I resolved on at- tempting a second, which afforded a wider entrance, and offered deeper water. This was examined about four miles beyond the last, and it still offered ample scope for employment, the advance boat being at that moment in four fathoms, and distant heads in view; but considering that f:ufficient had been done to show that no hope offered of reachin^^' fresh water, and the still unexplored state of the gulf would engross all our spare time, I determined on adhering to its main outlines, which eventually offered so many intricacies as almost to baflle our patience. One circumstance connected with the examination of the second estuary afforded very strong proof that no fresh-water streams were in the vicinity. It was the fact of finding near our advanced position many large specimens of the Astoria Medusa, or Euryale, an Asteria seldom If: 78 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR Hi I m ' !■ -II found but in pure, and generally deep salt water. At least twenty were taken by the dredge. By the 9th of November we had reached the eastern end of the first gulf, when the ship was moved into the second, the channel or strait con- necting them being not more than a quarter of a mile wide. I had been very sanguine in my expectations that we should have discovered a safe channel out by the eastern end of the Island of Margarita; but until satisfied upon that point I took the Starling and boats to explore. I found that our boats, and, upon emergency, the Starling, might have passed out, but it was far too doubtful and intricate for the ship. During the time the boats were thus engaged, I overlooked them from the summit of one of the highest peaks of Margarita, and plainly saw the outlines of the shoals, and difficulty of the navigation, even for boats. I had also a fine view of the southern unnamed island, which terminated in a crescent about ten miles to the S.E., with a passage very similar to that immediately beneath. We had frequently seen indistinctly the outlines of very high mountains to the eastward, distant about 50 or CO mi es. But on t'lis day I could detect abrupt breaks, which indicated water-courses between them, and could plainly follow out the yellow breaks of clifis, as far as the eye could trace inland. I have not the slightest doubt that these estuaries flow past them, and probably to the very base of the most distant mountains, even into the Gulf of California. As I am informed that there are no fresh streams in the district of La Paz, and that several esteros ran westerly from that neighbourhood, it is not improbable that they meet. Although the solu- tion of this question may not be commercially important, it is one highly interesting in a commercial point of view. After all the time expended, independent of severe labour, on this im- mense sheet of water, it will naturally be enquired, what advantages does the port offer ? The reply is : at the present moment, shelter ; and from several water-courses nearly dry at the time of our visit, it is evident that very powerful streams scour the valleys in the winter season, which in this region is reckoned between May and October. Fuel can be easily obtained in the esteros (mangrove). As a port for refit after any disaster, it is also very convenient; and for this purpose, either our northern or southern observatory bays may be selected. The latter would afford better shelter, but the former is certainl}' more convenient, and less liable to difficulty of navigation, the access to it being entirely free from shoals. In war it would be a most eligible rendezvous, particularly if watching THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 79 the coasts of Mexico or California, as no one could prevent the formation of an establishment, without adequate naval force ; and the nature of the country itself would not maintain an opposing party. The Island of Margarita would afford an excellent site for a deposit for naval stores. Martello towers on the heads of entrance would completely command it, and, excepting on the inside, no force could be landed. "Water would doubtless flow into wells, of which we had proof in spots where the wild beasts had scraped holes ; but from some (no doubt re- moveable) causes, it was intensely bitter. There is nothing in the geological constitution of the hills to render it so. The ranges of hills composing the three suites of mountains, vary from 1500 to 2000 feet, and are composed principally of fragments of horn- blende slate, serpentine, sandstone, and primitive limestone." From the entrance of Magdalena Bay to Cape Corso, the north end of the narrow but elevated neck of land separating the bay from the ocean, the distance is about nine miles, and the coast then falls low, and bends inwards about four or five miles from the general direction of the land, and forms with Cape Lazarus the Bay of Santa Maria, which is entirely open to the westward. SAN BARTHOLOMEW* is about three miles in extent, with sound- ings over the surface of eight fathoms, gradually decreasing to four and three at the head of the bay. The western point is < died Kelp Point, and has some rocks off it : just round it to the northward is the landing-place. The eastern point of the bay, called Cape Tortola, has a reef of rocks, mostly above the water, extending from it nearly half-way across the bay, thus affording good shelter to vessels lying within it ; its outermost rock is called the Sulphur Rock, and is 30 feet high. The land round Port Bartholomew is high, and the soundings im- mediately outside it are deep, there being from 20 to 30 fathoms at two miles off. Capt. Sir E. Belcher, R.N., says that ** the surrounding land is high and mountainous, composed, as far as we had opportunity of examining, of every rock occurring in trap formations, but reduced to fragments, not exceeding four or five pounds weight. Marine shells, similar to those found on the shores of the bay, were plentifully mixed up with this general debris, and in the layers between some clay beds, crystallized gypsum abounded. The bay is formed by a high range of loose cliffs on the north, and fine gravelly bay on the east, and a coarse sandy tongue connects a high peninsula or island at high water in its centre, (forming a third southern buy). From this peninsula, rocks extend northerly, partly under water, I: '!l T I * Turtle Hiiy (tttlic wlialers. 80 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR r i!^: r: l! m- 'hii' jutting into the heart of the bay, and forming a safe land-locked position, having five fathoms within. Tiie place of observation on the northern head of the bay is situated in lat. 27° 40' N., long. 1 14° 51' 20*' W. Var. 10° 4G' E. (1839). The anchorage we took up was in seven fathoms, sheltered from all but S.W. winds, but bad holding-ground." Cedros Island is represented in the Spanish charts to be about 10 leagues long, and before an extensive bay, that of San Sebastian Vizcaino. The south-western point of this bay is named Morro Hernioso, and west from ii. there is a smaller island, called Natividad. Captain Vancouver has remarked : — " To these islands, as the day advanced, we drew somewhat ncirer, but the land was still too far off to admit of our forming any correct judgment as to the productions of the country, or the shape of its shores. Those of the Island of Cedros wore an uneven broken appear- ance, though on a nearer approach they seemed to be all connected. The southern part, which is the highest, is occupied by the base of a very remarkable and lofty peaked mountain, which descends in a very peculiar rugged manner, and by projecting into the sea, forms the south-west end of the island into a low, craggy, rocky, point ; this as we passed it at the distance of five or six leagues, seemed, like the other part of the island, to be destitute of trees, and nearly so of all other vegetable productions. Natividad appeared to be more moderately elevated. St. Benito Island is small, with some islets and rocks about it." Playa Maria Bay would appear from the survey of Captain Kellett, R.N., to be an open roadstead of six to nine fathoms. On its eastern side is a high mountain called the Nipple, 1132 feet high, from which Cedros Island bears between the angles of S. 49° 40' W., and S. 38° W., true. The station for observations was on the western side of the bay, in lat. 28° 55' 37" N. and long. 114° 31' 20" W. Variation of the compass in 1847, 8° 44' E. SAN QUENTIN has been lately surveyed by Captain Sir E. Belcher, from whose plan it would appear that there is an extensive flat of 2^ and 1 \ fathoms stretching across the entrance of the port, but leaving a narrow channel of 4 to 7 and 8 fathoms close to the western side. This sandy flat has several dry patches on if. Sir E. Belcher has remarked that "the sandy point on the left side of the entrance is situated in lat. 30° 21' 53*' N., long, i ">" 56' 33^^ W. Var. 12° 6' E. (1839.) The whole coast is drccuy, being either sand-hills or volcanic mountains, five of which, very remarkably placed, caused one of the e u'ly navigators to term it the Bay of Five Hills. It is the Bay of the Virgins of former, and Port San Quentin of the later Spanish surveyors. The island and paps of Las Virgincs are situated to seaward, about two miles from what has been termed Observatory Peak, in our plan." a h r THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 81 SAN DIEGO. — Thisisoneof the most important harbours on the coast of California, south of San Francisco, as it affords perfect shelter from all winds, and has a considerable depth of water. That such a large volume of water should have so small an outlet is somewhat remarkable, as is also the very singular natural breakwater. Ballast Point. The Port La Playa is situated on the western shore of the bay, about If mile from the entrance. The anchorage is in between 9 and 10 fathoms. There is a custom-house and revenue establishment, and also every convenience for the mail steamers which stop here. An excellent road leads from La Playa to Old San Diego, which is a small town of a few adobe houses, and unapproachable by water, even in boats. New San Diego, now about two years old (1851), is situated on a plain at the base of the hills on the east side of the bay. It consists of a few American- built houses, and a large storehouse for the quartermaster's department. The United States military depot is established there. A channel runs in a curve from La Playa to New San Diego, and vessels can carry from six to seven fathoms water. Both New San Diego and La Playa are dependent upon the river at Old San Diego for their water. Between the above-named channel and Old San Diego, are large flats, mostly covered with grass, and partly bare at low tide. The most important subject, however, connected with the bay, is the effect of the debouchement of the San Diego River, bringing with it, when high (in the rainy season), great quantities of sand directly into the channel. It is believed, and apparently with reason, that unless the course of the river be changed, the channel will be ultimately filled, which will have the effect of not only cutting off communication with New Town, but also of destroying the bay entirely as a harbour — for it appears that nothing keeps the bay open but the great amount of water flowing in and out at the narrow entrance ; and, when the channel is closed, the greater part of the bay is cut off, leaving an insufficient amount to keep the entrance clear. A bar would doubtless form across the mouth, and the bay will gradually fill up. That the river does bring sand into the bay is asserted by the deputy collector of this place, and others who have the means of knowing ; and, farther, it is known that vessels at one time could anchor in False Bay, but the river flowing into it destroyed it, by filling it with sand ; and it then turned its course into San Diego Bay. If such be the facts, and there appears to be no reason to doubt them, the only remedy for the evil is to turn the river into False Bay again. This is an excellent harbour, and its loss would be severely felt. The average rise of the tide is stated to be about six feet, but according G i, i i 1 n 1 t B i il A 82 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR ■■it. ?•. i (' to the evidence of the pilots, it would appear to vary from nine feet, spring tides, to three and a half feet, during the greater part of the year. A shoal has been reported to exist about two-thirds of the distance from the Playa to the end of Ballast Point, on which are only nine feet at low tide. The following directions for San Diego are by Lieut. Alden, U.S. Navy, and bear date Sept. 29th, 1851 : — " Vessels in sight of the coast, and approaching San Diego from the north, will observe an opening in the hills, and the appearance of an inland bay. This is the * False Port,' and must be avoided. Im- mediately north of ' False Port ' commences a table land about 450 feet high, and extending southwardly six or seven miles. The extremity of this table land is called Point Loma, and forms the entrance to the harbour of San Diego. Those bound from the southward will first sight the group of high rocky islets, called * Los Coronados.' From thence to Point Loma, the course is N. i E., and the distance 15 nautical miles. On a clear day, ' Los Coronados' will serve as a land-mark and guide for vessels coming from any direction. Steer right through the kelp, giving Point Loma a berth of one-half mile, and in a few minutes you will open Ballast Point, a low beach of shingle stones, forming a natural breakwater. Then round up gradually until you bring Ballast Point in range with the easternmost house on the Playa, and he very careful not to open more oj the village^ otherwise you will be too far to the East, and in danger of getting aground on Zuningo Shoal. The breakers show its position. During the summer, keep as close to the hills on the port side as your draft of water will allow, as you will then be able to lay on the wind right up to Ballast Point. You can carry four fathoms within a ship's length of the point. Keep on the above range, and when up with Ballast Point, steer direct for the Playa, and anchor as you please. Inside of the breakwater, and about 250 yards true north of its extremity, is ' a shoal spot, with twelve feet at low tide. The shoals on the starboard hand are plain in sight, except at very high water. Beyond the Playa, the shoals are easily distinguished. The channel, however, is buoyed. From the Playa to New Town, four miles distant, you can carry six fathoms of water. A mile or two beyond New Town, the bay becomes shoal." Commander Sir E. Belcher remarks that " this port, for shelter^ deserves all the commendation that previous navigators have bestowed on it, and, with good ground-tackle, a vessel may be perfectly.land-locked. The holding-ground is stubborn, but in heavy southerly gales I am in- THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 83 formed that anchors * come home,' owing to the immense volume of kelp driven into the harbour. It has been stated to me by an old sailor in this region, that he has seen the whole bank of fucus giganteus (which comprises a tongue of three miles in length by a quarter broad), forced by a southerly gale into this port. This, coming across the bows, either causes the cable to part, or brings the anchor home. No vessel, how- ever, has suffered from this cause. The chief drawback is the want of fresh water, which, even at the presidio, three miles from the port, is very indifferent. The seine afforded a plentiful supply of excellent fish, and we found good sport in killing rabbits, hares, &c. The eastern spit of entrance was found to be in lat. 32° 41' N., long. 117° ir W. The entrance is narrow, being only of a width suitable for one vessel at a time. The trade consists entirely of hides and tallow ; but not, as formerly, from the missions, for they have long been fleeced. It has now become a complete speculation. It is necessary that one of the parties should reside on the spot, probably marrying into some influential family (i.e. in hides and tallow,) to secure a constant supply for the vessels when they arrive. It is dangerous for them to quit their post, as some more enterprising character might offer higher prices and carry off their cargo." Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., has made the following observations on Port San Diego : — " This port is of considerable extent, being, in fact, an arm of the sea. It is 10 miles long, and 4 miles wide, and, from being land-locked, is perfectly secure from all winds. The entrance is narrow and easily defended, and has a sufficient depth of water, 20 feet at lowest tide, for large vessels. The tide rises five feet. The tongue of kelp, three miles long by a quarter of a mile broad, off the entrance of the bay, must be avoided by large vessels, but small vessels may pass through it with a strong breeze ; the bank has three fathoms water on it. During gales, this kelp is torn up and driven into the bay, where it becomes troublesome to vessels by the pressure it brings upon them, either causing them to drag their anchors or part their cables. There are many drawbacks to this harbour ; the want of water is one of them, 'h? river which furnishes the mission with water disappearing in the d y season before reaching the bay, and the surrounding country may be c died a barren waste of sand-hills. The town of San Diego, consisting oi a few adobe houses, is situated on the north side of the bay, on a sand flat two miles wide. The mission establishment is seven miles from the town, up a valley to the north-east ; and here, there is a good supply of water the year round. This river, in the rainy season, dis- charges a considerable quantity of water into the bay, bringing with it G 2 J .%. ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) h /^ ^ .^t^ :/. w^ II I.I 11.25 ■ 50 ■^" ■■■ U 11.6 v5 VQ S /. Photpgiciphic .Sciences Corporation ^ JV a ^^" :0' # >s\ •5. O^ 33 WiST MAIN STRUT WIBSTER.N.Y. MS80 (716) S73-4503 ^:V^ i^ 84 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR much sand, which has abready formed a bar across a part of False Bay, rendering it useless, and well grounded fears may be entertained that ii will eventually destroy this harbour also : this occurrence, however, may be prevented at slight cost. The whole country around San Diego is composed of volcanic sand and mud, mixed with scoria : the land is unfit for cultivation, and covered with cacti, one of the many evidences of the poorness of the soil ; this leaves the Port of San Diego little to recommend it but the uniform climate, good anchorage, and security from all winds." SAN JUAN is an open roadstead of 12 to 4^ fathoms. It has been mentioned in the following terms by Sir E. Belcher : — " On the evening of the ISth of October, 1839, we dropped anchor in the bay of San Juan. Owing to the surf running at the time, and my objects rendering me, without any assistant, a perfect slave to duty, I was compelled to stick to a half-tide rock, to effect the security of this position. The buy, or rather the outer rock, on which I observed, is situated in lat. 33° 26' 56" N. and long. 1 17° 40' 50" W. It has a high cliffy head to the north-west, but terminates in low sandy beaches to the southward. This bay was examined and surveyed. The anchorage is foul under five fathoms, is unprotected, and the landing bad. The mission is situated in a fruitful-looking sheltered valley, said to abound in garden luxuries, country wines, and very pretty damsels, whence the favourite appellation Juanitas. I suppose, therefore, that they all assume this name. As many call here, apparently, to my view, at risk of anchor and cable, I was induced to ask the master of a vessel who called upon me, what brought him here. * It is only visited for stock, fruit, or vegetables,' was his dry reply." Captain John Hall has observed, that in coming into this bay from the north, care must be taken to give the bluff point a wide berth, as some dangerous rocks lie off it, about a mile or more distant. Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., says, " This bay is 45 miles north of San Diego : at its head lies the fertile valley, in which is situated the town and mission of San Juan. The bay is entirely unprotected, and is a bad roadstead, the bottom being very foul inside of five fathoms, and the landing at times impossible, on account of the surf. It can be safely visited during the fine season, and provisions and water easily ob- tained, the latter from the mountain streams, which empty into the bay, and also enable the inhabitants to irrigate their lands, by which mode of cultivation they are made extremely productive. The shore here becomes quite bold, making the communication very inconvenient to the north- ward by land. From San Juan, the coast trends W.N.W., 37 miles, to San Pedro, which is but an open bay, with scarcely any more claims to be called a THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 85 Pedro, iWed a harbour than San Juan : it is equally exposed, except from the north- west winds ; but from being near a part of the country which produced an abundance of what was formerly the staple of the country, hides, it was more frequently visited. The town of Nuestra Sefiora is 18 miles from the bay, up the valley. The cliffs along this part of the coast are steep, and composed of clay and chert, throughout which are interspersed chalky lumps, which contain organic remains. Water is not to be obtained here, and the little that is required for the supply of a few inhabitants has to be brought from a distance in the interior. SANTA BARBARA lies 35 miles, E.by S.,from Point Conception. There is scarcely any protection, though somewhat sheltered from the north-west swell by the Island of Santa Cruz ; vessels, however, anchor here, notwithstanding the south-east winds blow during the winter months with great violence. At these times it is necessary for vessels to put to sea, and this is usually done when indications of these storms are seen. There is anchorage within the line of kelp in five fathoms water, but it is only resorted to by navigators who are very desirous of dis- charging or getting on board their cargoes. The town is within a few, hundred yards of the beach, from which the valley rises in which the mission of Santa Barbara is situated. The mission, with its white-washed walls, forms an excellent land-mark for the anchorage, and all dangers may be avoided by keeping without the line of kelp, which is found to grow on this coast, in from 5 to 7 fathoms water. Santa Barbara has been the residence of the best families in Cali- fornia: it is larger than Monterey, and contains nearly 1000 inhabitants; its position seems to be badly chosen, except as to climate, which com- bines all the good points of the other ports on the coast, being drier than those towards the north, and cooler than those of the south. The anchorage is bad holding-ground, being hard sand covered with sea- weed. Excellent water, and in plenty, is obtained from the rocky hills four or five miles distant, which enables cultivation by irrigation to be carried on, and by this means all kinds of fruit and grains are brought to perfection, and some of the former made to produce throughout the year ; flowers common to our gardens also bloom in the winter months. This fertile valley extends back 17 miles. San Gabriel and the Pueblo de los Angelos, two of the principal towns, lie in this part of California, deemed the most agreeable climate in the country. These towns have always been the centre of the Spanish population ; but, under the recent changes, they will lose their importance, yet con- m SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR tinue, no doubt, to be occupied as heretofore, exclusively by Californians and their descendants. It has been remarked by Sir Edward Belcher : — " Off this part of the coast we experienced a very strong sensation, as if the ship was on fire, and after a very close investigation, attributed it to a scent from the shore, it being much more sensible on deck than below ; and the land breeze confirming this, it occurred to me that it might arise from the naphtha on the surface. Vancouver notices the same smell. At sunset, we were unable to discover the bay, and could barely dis- tinguish a long, low, yellow line, spitting to the southward and terminating abruptly. This eventually proved to be the high yellow clifis of the western head, at least fifty feet above the sea. The customary guide, in approaching the coast, is the *kelp line,* which generally floats over five to seven fathoms. So long as a vessel can keep on its verge, there is no danger. This is the general opinion of those who have navigated this coast during their lives, and our obser- vation has tended to confirm it. I know, however, that less than two fathoms have been found within it, barely at its edge. It is the fucus giganteus, and sufficiently strong to impede the steerage, if it takes the rudder, ^ The mission at Santa Barbara is situated on an elevation of about 200 feef, gradually ascending in about three miles from the sea. The town is within a few hundred yards of the beach, on which the landing is at all times doubtful. The bay is protected from northerly and westerly winds, wijich prevail from November to March, and the swell is, in some measure, broken by the islands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel, to the westward. In March, the south-westers blow with fury, which is contrary to the seasons southward of Cape San Lucas. Even during the fine weather months, vessels are always prepared to slip when the wind veers to S.E., from which point it blows with great violence, but soon expends itself. We were fortunate in landing comfortably, and by four o'clock, nothing of interest detaining us, we moved on towards San Pedro. Vessels occasionally anchor here within the five fathoms', or kelp line, but are always prepared to warp out. This is a kind of inner bar. The kelp doubtless prevents much surf, and renders it more convenient to vessels discharging ; but during the heavy gales, the kelp is generally washed up. The Canal of Santa Barbara is the strait between the Island of Santa Cruz and a chain of other islands and the main land. The mission of San Buenaventura, S.E. from Santa Barbara, about 20 miles, is on the main, about two miles from the shore. i THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 87 i A short distance to the southward of Buenaventura, the coast spits out in a low sandy point, off which the water shallows suddenly to seven fathoms. There is no danger if the lead is kept going. The Bay of San Pedro, which is situated in lat. 3S° 43' N., and long. 118° 14' W., is open to the south-west, but tolerably sheltered frcm the north-west. Inside of the small island in the bay is a very snug creek, but only accessible to small craft, by reason of a rocky bar, having only, at low water springs, five feet. The only house near the bay is supplied with water from some miles inward ; and I am informed, that at times the inhabitants are in great distress. It is only maintained for the convenience of trading with the vessels which touch here for the purchase of hides and tallow. The cliffs of the western sides of the bay which form the beach line, are very steep, about fifty feet perpendicular, descending from one elevated range, about five hundred feet above the sea. They are com- po'^ed of a loose mud, mixed with lumps of a chalky substance, enclosing organic remains, sometimes running into chert or chalce- dony." Captain John Hall has remarked of Santa Barbara that " this bay is only sheltered from the N.W. winds, being exposed to the south and S.W. The anchorage is not very good, being hard sand, and over- grown with sea-weed. We had such a quantity of this on our anchor when we hove it up, that it entirely impeded the ship's progress until we got it clefir. We found no tide or currents, but there appeared to be a rise and fall, in-shore, of about two feet. All kinds of provisions are cheap here, as also fruits, viz : grapes, pears, apples, and plums, in the season." Captain Vancouver has remarked of Santa Barbara, " To sail into the bay requires but few directions, as it is open, and without any kind of interruption whatever; the soundings on approaching it are regular, from 1 5 to 3 fathoms ; the former, from half a league to two miles, the latter within a cable and a half-of the shore. Weeds were seen growing about the roadstead in many places ; but, so far as we examined, which was only in the vicinity of our anchorage, they did not appear to indicate shallower water, or a bottom of a different nature. The shores of the roadstead are for the most part low, and terminate in sandy beaches, to which, however, its western point is rather an exception, being a steep cliff, moderately elevated ; to which point I gave the name of Point Felipe, after the commandant of Santa Barbara." Of the islands in the ofiSing, the only one that has been examined is the westernmost, St. Nicholas, which appears to be about seven miles long and three broad. It is high in the middle, and has breakers ex-v ,1 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR tending off the eastern and western ends. At the distance of two and a half miles to the northward of it are 40 fathoms water. The western end of the island is in lat. 33° 22' N. and long. 1 19° 42' 3" W., according to the observations of Captain Kellett, R.N., 1847. At the distance of seven and a half miles, W.N.W., from St. Nicholas Island, is a rock, called John Begg Rock, which is 30 or 40 feet above the water. Mid- way between the rock and the island are 40 to 45 fathjoms, coral. The southernmost of the islands is the Coronados, to the south-west- ward of the port of St. Diego, in lat. 32° 24' 55" N. and long. 1 17° 15' W. They appear from the survey of Captain Kellett, to be four in number, and to have from 12 to 15 fathoms immediately to the eastward of them. They have been described by Vancouver in the following manner : — " The Coronados consist of two islets and three rocks, situated in a south direction, four or five leagues from Point Loma, occupying the space of five miles, and lying N. 35° W. and S. 35° E. from each other. The southernmost, which, in point of magnitude, is equal to all the rest col- lectively taken, is about a mile broad and two miles long, and is a good mark to point out the port of St. Diego, which, however, is otherwise sufficiently conspicuous, not easily to be mistaken." Of the Island St. Juan, to the northward of the Coronados, in lat. 32° 56' N., and marked on the chart of the coast, it appears that there is some doubt of its existence, an American vessel being reported to have lately sailed over it. It has been thought better td retain it on the chart, as our knowledge of the coast is very imperfect.* POINT CONCEPTION is about 110 miles, W.N. W., from PointSan Pedro, and is remarkable by its differing very much in form from the headlands to the northward. It appears to stretch out from an extensive tract of low land, and to terminate like a wedge, with its large end falling perpendicularly into the sea, which breaks against it with great violence. Off the point the current sets to the north in the early spring months. There is generally hereabout a strong smell, resembling as- phaltum, which, as it is mentioned by Vancouver, is probably of a • This island is laid down on the authority of Vancouver, who says :—" At the distance of about eight leagues, somewhere about N. 66° W. and N. 60° W. from Point Loma, by a very uncertain estimation, is situated an island called St. John's ; between which and the coast we passed without seeing it, nor did we observe it whilst we remained at anchor, excepting on one very clear evening, when it was seen from the Presidio, at a time w^ien I was unprovided with a compass, or any other means of ascertaining its direction, and was therefore only able to guess at its situation. It appeared to be low and flat, Is but seldom seen from the Presidio of St. Diego, and was undiscovered until seen by Martinez, a few years before, in one of his excursions along this coast." I THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. I permanent nature. As this part of the coast is frequently enveloped in fog, this smell may be a good notification of the vicinity of the land. The land from Point Conception trends to the northward, and it is a singular circumstance that the climate seems to undergo as great a change as the direction of the coast. To the northward of the cape, fogs and mists prevail during the early part of the day for three-fourths of the year. From Point Conception the coast runs N. 51° W., 10 miles, to Point Arguello, a steep rocky point rising abruptly in rugged, craggy cliffs, near which are two or three detached rocks, lying close to the shore. From hence it runs N. 4° W., 19 miles, to another high, steep, rocky, cliff, called Point Sal, which projects from the low shore, similar to Point Arguello. The intermediate land has the same appearance as that to the northward, the whole is destitute of trees, and nearly so of all vegetable productions, excepting near a stream about six miles from Point Arguello, which has the largest flow of water of any river to the southward of the Columbia River, but the breakers across its entrance will render it of but little use to navigation. From Point Sal to Point Esteros, the distance is about 38 miles, the coast bending inwards, and forming two bays, those of St. Luis Obispo and Esteros. Vancouver has observed : — " At the north point of this bay, Esteros, the woodland country ceases to exist,* and the shores acquire a quick ascent, with a very uneven surface, particularly in the neigh- bourhood of the bay. Some detached rocks are about its southern point, which lies about 13 miles from the northern, and is formed by steep cliffs, falling perpendicularly into the ocean. From the line of the two outer points, the shores of the bay fell back about five miles, and ap- peared to be much exposed ; and unless the conical rock is connected with the shores, they did not seem to form any projecting point, but were composed of a sandy beach, that stretched from a margin of low land, extending from the rugged mountains that form the more interior country, from whence four small streams were seen from the mast-head to flow into the bay. • This bay was the first indent in the shore to the southward of Car- melo Bay, and, according to the Spanish charts, is called Los Esteros. To the southward of it, the whole exterior country had a sterile, dreary, unpleasant aspect. The south point of Esteros forms the north-west extreme of a conspicuous promontory, which takes a rounding direction, about eight miles, when the coast retires again to the eastward, and forms the northern side of an extensive open bay. This promontory is called * It should be observed that Vancouver was suiting to the southward, along the coast. m SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR the Mountain del Buchon, and is said to have off it an island, at the distance of about eight leagues, although we saw nothing of it, probably in consequence of a thick haze, sometimes approaching to a fog, which totally prevented our seeing any object further than from two to four leagues in any direction, insomuch that we stood into the bay to the southward of the Mountain del Buchon, without knowing it to be such, until the south point discovered itself through the haze» at the distance of about three leagues. This not being named on the charts, I have called it Point Sal, after our friend the commandant at San Francisco. As the day was fast declining, we hauled our wind to preserve our situation during the night, with so strong a gale from the north-west as obliged us to close- reef our top-sails. In the morning, the weather being more moderate and the atmosphere more clear, we steered for Point Sal, and had a good ■ opportunity of seeing the northern shores of the bay, which, like those of Esteros, seemed compact, without any projecting points that would afford shelter or security for shipping. The interior country consisted of lofty barren mountains, in double and treble ridges, at some distance from the shore. The intermediate land descended gradually from their base, interspersed with eminences and vallies, and terminated on the coast in sandy beaches, or low white cliffs." From Point Esteros the distance to Carmel Point, the south side of Carmel Bay, is about 80 miles. In lat. 35° 42' N. there is a low pro- jecting point, off which are two or three rugged detached rocks. To the eastward of this point, the mountains fall back from the water-side, and the intermediate country appears to be a plain, or to rise with a very gentle ascent, for the space of about four leagues along the coast. This land appeared to Vancouver to be tolerably well wooded, even close to the shore, and, by the assistance of his glass, some of the trees appeared to be very large, with spreading branches ; and being for the greater part distributed in detached clumps, produced a very pleasing effect. Hence, the country is mountainous, even close to the shore, the mountains being called Na Sa de Sta. Lucia. Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., has made the following remarks on this coast : — " San Luis Obispo is 40 miles to the north of Point Con- ception : immediately in the rear are the Santa Lucia hills, a part of the coast range, extending as far north as Punto Pinos, the southern part of the Bay of Monterey. The plains and neighbouring mountains are well covered with large timber, and here the olive and other fruits of this region grow in perfection; on the hills the California cedar (pale Colorado) is found of large size. A small stream, the Rio San Felipe, empties into the sea at this point. ^ THB WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 91 On th(9 opposite or eastern slope of the ridge is the valley of Salinas, through which the Rio Buenaventura flows. The hills are rendered much more fertile by their exposure to the fogs and mists of the coast, which supply them plentifully with moisture, and this is seen running in many rills down the hill-sides. The valley of Salinas is 50 miles in length, and has an average width of six or seven miles ; the valley descends to the north-west, and at its lower end is contracted by the hills through which the river passes, a low and well-wooded bottom being formed on each side ; the whole of it is well drained, and admirably adapted for stock farms ; it may be called an open country, covered with grass ; the tops of the hills are covered with oaks, pines, and cedars. The river having passed through a narrow range of hills, the valley again opens, and now receives the name of La Soledad, which is 20 miles wide, and extends to the bay of Monterey. The land on either side rises into undulating hills, and from these into mountains, some 2000 feet high. The valley of La Soledad is considered very fertile, the plains affording large areas of arable land, while the hills are covered with grass and groves of oak, and the mountains with trees of higher growth." CARMEL BAY is about six miles to the southward of Point Finos, the west side of Monterey Bay. Its north side. Fisherman's Point, has some rocks off it, and there are also some rocks off the south point of the bay, at about a quarter of a mile from the shore. Vancouver has re- marked that " Carmel Bay is a small, open, and exposed situation, con- taining some detached rocks, and as it has a rocky bottom, it is a very improper place to anchor in. Into this bay flows the River Carmel, passing the mission of St. Carlos, which is said to abound in a variety of excellent fish. From the north point of Carmel Bay, the coast takes a S. by E. direction, about four leagues, to a small, high, rocky, clump of land, lying about half a mile from the shore, which is nearly barren ; indeed, the trees from Point Pinos extend a little way only to the southward of Carmel Bay, where the mountains rise rather abruptly from the sea, and the naked shores, excepting one or two sandy beaches, are entirely com- posed of steep rocky cliffs. To the southwaid of the detached lump of land, the coast is nearly straight and compact ; the mountains form one uninterrupted, though rather uneven, ridge, with chasms and gullies on their sides ; the whole, to all appearance, utterly destitute of vegeta- tion." MONTEREY BAY.— From Fisherman's Point, the north point of Carmel Bay, the coast trends round to the northward, a1)out five miles, to Point Pinos, the west side of Monterey Bay. The projecting points 92 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR have rocks off them to a short distance, rendering precaution necessary when running along the coast. Monterey Bay is situated between Point Pinos and Point Anno Nuevo, which bear from each other about N. 72° W. and S. 72° E., distant 22 miles, and is formed by the coast falling back, nearly four leagues, from the line of the two points. The only part of it that is eligible for anchoring is near its southern portion, about a league south- eastward from Point Pinos, where the shores form a sort of cove, which affords clear good riding, and tolerable shelter for a few vessels. In order to be protected from the sea, it is necessary to lie at no great distance from the south-west shore, where, either at night or in the morning, the prevailing wind from the land will permit vessels to leave the bay, which otherwise would be a tedious task, by the opposition of the winds along the coast, whose general direction is between the N.W. and N.N.W. To these points of the compass this anchorage is wholly exposed, but as the swell of the sea is broken by the land of Point Pinos, and as these winds, which prevail only in the day-time, seldom blow stronger than a moderate gale, the anchorage is rendered tolerably safe and convenient; and notwithstanding these north-westerly winds are POINT PINOS beariDg: N. 33° E., distant four mUes. common throughout the greater part of the year, there is seldom an instance of their being so violent as to affect the safety of vessels tolerably well found in anchors and cables. The soundings are regular, from 30 to 4 fathoms, with a bottom consisting of a mixture of sand and mud ; and the shores are sufficiently steep for all the purposes of naviga- tion, without shoals or other impediments. Near Point Anno Nuevo are some small rocks, at a short distance from the coast ; the shores of Point Pinos are also rocky, and have some detached rocks lying at a small distance from them, but which do not extend so far off as to be dangerous. The rocky shores of Point Pinos terminate just to the southward of the anchoring-place, and are succeeded by a fine sandy beach, said to extend all round the bay. About four leagues from Point Pinos is a small stream, called the River Monterey, but, like Carmel River, it is nothing more than a very shallow brook of fresh water, although dignified by the name of a river. Near Point Anno Nuevo is another small stream. The anchorage under Point Pinos is the only situation in the bay 1 THE WEST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. 93 1 where vessels can ride with any degree of safety or convenience. Near it is the town, situated on low flat ground, but having in its vicinity many delightful situations, and a soil fertile enough to repay the labour of the cultivation. The climate of Monterey and the immediate neigh- bourhood is considered to be very healthy. Since coming into the pos- session of the Americans, the town has been much visited, as supplies can be obtained in plenty. It has been remarked by Captain Beechey, R.N., that " the anchorage of Monterey is about two miles south-east of Point Pinos, in the south angle of the great bay extending between Point Anno Nuevo and Point Pinos. It is necessary to lie close to the shore, both on account of the depth of water, and in order to receive the protection of Point Pinos, without which vessels could not remain in the bay. It presents to the eye a very exposed anchorage, but no accidents have ever occurred to any vessel properly found in cables and anchors, in which respect it very much resembles the bay of Valparaiso, nearly in the same parallel in the southern hemisphere. The village and presidio of Monterey are situated upon a plain be- tween the anchorage and a range of hills covered with woods of pine and oak. At the distance of a league to the southward of the presidio lies the mission of San Carlos, situated in a valley near the River Carmel ; a small stream emptying itself into a deep rocky bay. The shores of this bay, and indeed of the whole of the coast near Point Pinos, are armed with rocks of granite, upon which the sea breaks furiously ; and, as there is no anchorage near them on account of the great depth of water, it is dangerous to approach the coast in light or variable winds. Fortunately some immense beds of sea- weed* lie off the coast, and are so impene- traA)le, that they are said to have saved several vessels which were driven into them by the swell, during calm and foggy weather. Directions. — Ships should not enter this bay in light winds in any other part than that used as an anchorage, as there is generally a heavy swell from the westward, and deep water close to the shore. It is impossible to mistake Point Pinos, if the weather be at all clear, as its aspect is very different to that of any part of the bay to the northward. It is a long, sloping, rocky, projection, surmounted by pine- trees, from which its takes its name ; whereas the coast line of the bay is all sandy beach. There is no danger in approaching Point Pinos, except that which may ensue from a heavy swell almost always setting upon the point, and from light winds near the shore, as the water is too deep for anchorage. With a breeze from the southward. Point Pinos should be passed as closely as possible ; a quarter of a mile will not be * Fucus Pyriformis. ^ 94 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR too near; and that shore should be hugged in order to fetch the anchorage. In case of having to make a tack, take care of a shoal at the S.£. angle of the bay, which may be known by a great quantity of sea-weed upon it: there is no other danger. This shoal has 3^ and 4 fathoms upon its outer edge, and 7 fathoms near it. With a fair wind steer boldly towards the sandy beach at the head of the bay, and anchor about one-sixth of a mile off shore in 9 fathoms, the fort upon the hill near the beach bearing "W.S.W., and moor with the best bower to the E.N.E. This anchorage, although apparently unsafe, is said to be very secure, and that the only danger is from violent gusts of wind from the S.E. The north-westerly winds, though they prevail upon the coast, and send a heavy swell into the bay, do not blow home upon the shore ; and when they are at all fresL they occasion a strong off-set in the bay. This I believe is also the case at Callao and at Valparaiso to which, as before mentioned, this anchorage bears a great resemblance. There is no good water to be had at Monterey, and ships in want of that necessary supply must either proceed to San Francisco, or procure a permit from the governor, and obtain it at Santa Cruz, or some of the missions to the southward. By the mean of many observations on the tides at this place, it is High water (full and change) at 9 h. 42 m. Rise is about 6 ft. in. at spring tide. And 1 ft. 2 in. at the neaps. There is very little current at the anchorage." Captain Hall observes : — " As a harbour, Monterey is extremely inferior to San Francisco ; however, it is quite protected from the South and S.W. winds ; and, by anchoring well under the point, a vessel may also be protected from the N.W., although the N.W. winds send in a very heavy swell. Fish here, also, is plentiful, as are likewise provisions generally, including good bread" On the plan of the harbour, from the survey of M. de Tessan, are the following remarks, drawn up by M. du Petit Thouars : — " In making the bay, it will be known by a depression in the coast, while the land rises to an elevation of more than 3000 feet at the northern and southern extremities. When in the latitude of Pt. Pinos (36° 39^ N.), and near the shore, great white spots are seen to the westward of the point, which render it sufficiently marked. To anchor, with a fair wind, you run in to within two or three cables' length of the rocks seen from this low point, and follow at the same distance the western coast of the bay, u fj g o THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 95 until Point Pines is shut in by Point Venus. You are then in 15 or 16 fathoms water, on a bottom of sand and a little mud, with good holding- ground : that is the anchorage for large vessels. Small vessels run in nearer to the bottom of the bay, and anchor very nearly in a range with the battery, in 9 or 10 fathoms water, on a bottom of muddy sand, having Pt. Anno Nuevo (the northern extremity of the bay) shut in by Pt. Venus. On account of the calms, which fre- quently oblige vessels to anchor, it is necessary to follow the western shore of the bay, neither too far off nor too near. During adverse winds, vessels may safely beat about in the bay of Monterey, as the two coasts are safe, the only danger being in the bottom of the bay, in the south- east anchorage. This is a bank of rock, on which are from 4 to 10 fathoms of water ; but it is betrayed by the leaves of the fucus giganteus (kelp) which float on the surface. Fogs are very frequent, and some- times render it difficult to make the land ; and it often happens that it is foggy in the offing but clear near the coast. During the rainy season (from November to March), the wind blov/s from S.E. to S.W. : S.E. is the wind of bad weather. During the dry season (March to Novt mber), the winds blow gene- rally from N.W. to North. N.W. is the wind for good weather. The N. wind causes a heavy swell in the bay, but it is frequently less severe than in the offing. There is no sensible current in the bay. Without, the currents are not strong, and appear to run in the North near the coast, and in the South more in the offing. The tides are regular. High water, full and change, 9h. 52m. ; rise 3 feet. Variation, 14° 30' E." The remarks of Commander Wilkes, U.S.N., may also prove inter- esting ; they are as follow : — " The roadstead of Monterey is at the south end of the bay, and is considered a safe anchorage, though but partially protected from the westerly winds by Point Pinos. The points of the coast which form the bay, and the land a short distance back, are all elevated ; but the beach is sandy, and has a continual surf beating upon it, which may be heard for some distance. There are no hidden dangers in the bay ; those that exist are visible, or have kelp growing on them, which points out their position, and lie near the shore. The bottom at the anchorage is sand and stones, but in places, rocky ; to the north the water deepens, and the soundings are yellowish mud, mixed with sand. The tides are regular, but not felt at the usual anchorage, the curient flowing inside and around the bay. The ordinary winds at this place are from the S.W. and W.S.W. in the morning ; towards ten o'clock it veres to the W. and W.N.W., from which quarter it freshens till three or four o'clock, afterwards decreasing, and finally becomes calm, which lasts until midnight, when light airs SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR come off from the land, continuing until daylight. In November there are frequent short gales from the S.E,, which blow from off the high land, rushing down in violent squalls. The most dangerous gales are from the i.orth and west, on which side the bay is completely open ; the sea sets in very heavy, and is more to be apprehended than the wind. Fogs generally prevail in the morning to seaward ; these, however, do not extend into the bay, and , when the wind from the N. W. sets in, they are generally dissipated." To these remarks on Monterey Bay, may be added the following, by La Perouse, which, although written as long back as 1786, may still be valuable : — " In Monterey Bay the sea rolls to the foot of the sandy downs which border the coast, and produces a noise, which we heard when more than a league distant. The lands to the north and south of this bay are elevated, and covered with trees. Vessels intending to stop here must follow the southern shore, and when they have doubled Point Pinos, which projects to the north, the presidency appears in view, and they come to an anchor in 10 fathoms of water, within and rather near to the Point, which shelters them from the winds of the sea. The Spanish vessels which make a long stay at Monterey usually approach as near the shore as the distance only of one or two cables* lengths, and moor in six fathoms of water, by making fast to an anchor, which they bury in the sand on the beach. They have then nothing to fear from the south winds, which are sometimes strong, but not at all dangerous, as they blow from the coast. We had soundings in every part of the bay, and anchored at the distance of four leagues from the shore, in 60 fathoms, soft mud ; but as the sea is heavy, it is not possible to remain in this situation longer than a few hours, while waiting for day, or the clearing up of the fog. It is impossible to describe either the number of whales with which we were surrounded, or their familiarity. They blowed ever 7 half minute within half a pistol-shot from our figures, and occasioned a most annoying stench. We were unacquainted with this property in the whale ; but the inhabitants informed us that the water thrown out by them is impregnated with this offensive smell, which is perceived to a considerable distance ; and to the fishermen of Greenlahd or of Nantucket, this would probably have been no new phenomenon. Almost incessant fogs envelope the coasts of Monterey Bay, which renders the approach somewhat difficult. But for this circumstance there would scarcely be a safer shore. No concealed rock extends further than a cable's length ; and if the fog be too thick, it is easy to anchor and wait for its clearing up, when the Spanish settlement is seen in the angle formed by the southern and eastern shores. The sea was covered with pelicans. It appears that these birds never fly to a greater distance than 5 or G leagues from the land, and THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 97 navigators who meet with them during a fog, may be certain of being no further distant from it. We saw them for the first time in Monterey Bay, and I have since been informed that they are common over the whole coast of California. The Spaniards call them alkatrce.'" SAN FRANCISCO. — From Point Anno Nuevo, the north point of Monterey Bay, the coast runs to the N.N.W. about 53 miles, and is for the whole distance uninviting in appearance. Along the coast are the San Bruno Hills, which gradually decrease in altitude, and become sandy and barren, without any appearance of cultivation. On the north side of the bay is Table Hill, 2569 feet high, from whence the coast trends W.N.W. to Punta de los Reyes. Since coming into the possession of the Americans, this harbour has become of great importance, on account of the great quantities of gold that are found up the country, and now a great trade is carried on with the Sandwich Islands and China. The principal town in the bay is San Francisco, situated at Yerba Buena Cove, on the south side of the entrance, which, although but recently built, boasts of several churches, an exchange, a theatre, and some hotels of the largest size. Some of the houses are built of stone, although many are only of wood and sun-burnt clay ; but these are rapidly giving place to more substantial structures. The streets are said to be well laid out, but there is no drainage; the hasty erection of the town precluding such an arrangement. The popu- lation is represented to amount to over 60,000. In the north-east part of the Bay of San Pablo, is the city of Benicia, situated on the north side of the Straits of Karquines, leading to the Sacramento River. It is a rising place, and said to possess greater com- mercial advantages than San Francisco, as vessels of the largest size can lie close to the shore. Sacramento City is a considerable distance to the north-east of Benicia ; it is situated on the Sacramento River at the junction of the American Fork, and on the first discovery of the gold collected a large population. The houses were erected on piles, but at the time of the floods in 1849, were almost entirely washed away, and we believe have not been rebuilt. The River Sacramento and country adjoining, have been described in the following terms by Commander Sir E. Belcher : — " Throughout the whole extent, from Elk station to the Sacramento mouth, the country is one immense flat, bounded in the distance N.W. by Sierras Diavolo, W. Sierras Bolbones, and E.N.E. to E.S.E. by the Sierras Nievadas, from whence no doubt this river springs, and rises in proportion to the rains and thaws. Our case lay between banks, varying from 20 to 30 feet above the river-level, apparently, from its strata, of differently composed clay and loose earth, produced by some great alluvial deposit. Sand did occur at times, but not a rock or pebble varied the sameness of the banks. II 98 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR These were, for the most part, belted with willow, ash, oak, or plane, (platanus occidentalis,) which latter, of immense size, overhung the stream, without apparently a sufficient hold in the soil to support them, so much had the force of the stream denuded their roots. Within, and at the verge of the banks, oaks of immense size were plentiful. These appeared to form a band on each side, about 300 yards in depth, and within (on the immense park-like extent, which we generally explored when landing for positions) they were to be seen disposed in clumps, which served to relieve the eye, wandering over what might otherwise be described as one level plain or sea of grass. Several of these oaks were examined, and some of the smaller felled. The two most re- markable measured respectively 27 feet and 19 feet in circumference, at 3 feet above ground. The latter rose perpendicularly at a (computed) height of 60 feet before expanding its branches, and was truly a noble sight. All the trees and roots on the banks aiFord unequivocal proofs of the power of the flood-streams, the mud-line on a tree we measured ex- hibiting a rise of 10 feet above the present level, and that of recent date. At the period of our examination, the river was probably at its lowest, and much less than I had anticipated in regard to strength, being at times almost still water; and yst up to our present position, the Sulphur might have been warped or towed by a steamer. During the rainy season, which commences about the middle of November, and terminates about the end of February, the river is said to overflow its banks, when its im- petuosity is such that navigation (for the craft of this country I suppose) is then impossible. The annual rains do not, hov/ever, of necessity inundate these low lands, but in severe seasons, after heavy falls of snow, they produce an immense sea, leaving only the few scattered emi- nences, which art or nature have produced, as so many islets or spots of refuge. " . Upon these spots, the tribes who inhabit these low lands, are frequently compelled to seek shelter, principally, however, on those artificially con- structed — as all were which we examined. They consist merely of a rounded pile, raised about 15 feet at the apex above the surrounding level ; the space from which the earth is removed, forming a ditch to carry off the superfluous water. Our pilot termed them Rancherias, (as they also do any place to which the natives resort,) and assured us that each was the separate property of a distinct tribe. None exceed one hundred yards in diameter, and con- fined within such a compass, it is fearful to contemplate the ravages, which disease must make in an inclement season, or the misery which the survivors must endure, thus pent up with the dead and dying. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 99 ges, lich Lately, fever and ague carried off whole tribes; and the spots they had thus so carefully reared, were but their own tombs ! On one of these I had fixed a station, and on digging to insert the spot (?), the parts of a skeleton, with hair perfect, mixed with ashes, were turned up. It is, theiefore, probable that they burn their dead, to destroy the animal matter, and prevent contagion. This Rancheria was assigned by our pilot (an Indian) to the Onee-shan-d-tee tribe ; but as he appeared to name every tribe below Point Victoria (where they are wallocks) by the same appellation, I am induced to attach little importance to his nomenclature, as I have been since informed that they keep to the left bank. At a position nearer Point Victoria, where no mound was apparent, many entire skeletons were scattered about, above ground ; which pro- bably may have resulted from the mortality before alluded to (a few years since) having cut them off before they could reach their Rancheria. My firsb impression was, that some great battle had been fought, and that their dead had been left. But this is not customary, and they would not have been left so complete by birds or beasts of prey. As these skeletons appeared less disturbed, it is probable that at these seasons of inundation, birds and beasts retire to the mountains or wooded ele stations." On approaching the coast in the neighbo\jrhood of ban Francisco, the country has by no means an inviting aspect. To the north, it rises in a lofty range, whose highest point is known as the Table Hill, and forms an iron-bound coast from Punta de los Reyes to the mouth of the harbour. To the south, there is an extended sandy beach, behind which rise the sand-hills of San Bruno, to a moderate height. There are no symp- toms of cultivation, nor is the land on either side fit for it ; for in the former direction it is mountainous, in the latter sandy, and in both barren. The entrance to the harbour is striking : bold and rocky shores confine the rush of the tide, which, a recent writer observes, bore us on and through a narrow passage into a large estuary; in this, several islands and rocks lie scattered ai'ound : some of the islands are clothed with vegetation to their very tops ; otliers are barren and covered with guano, having an immense number of sea-fowls hovering over, around, and alighting upon them. The distant shores of the bay extend north and south, far beyond the visible horizon, exhibiting one of the most spacious, and at the same time, safest ports in the world. To the east rises a lofty inlaid range, known by the name of La Sierra. Commander Wilkes mentions : — " At the time of our visit, the country in the interior of the bay altogether presented rather a singular appearance, H i> 100 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR owing, as I afterwards observed, to the withered vegetation and the ripened wild oats of the country. Instead of a lively green hue, it had generally a tint of a light straw-colour, showing an extreme want of moisture. The drought had continued for eleven months ; the cattle were dying in the fields ; and the first view of California was not calcu- lated to make a favourable impression either of its beauty or fertility." The bar of San Francisco Bay, as it has been termed, lies about four miles outside the entrance. The least depth of water is 4^ fathoms, but it is at times very dangerous on account of the heavy breakers. It can be avoided by keeping the southern shore aboard, where deeper water is found. At the time of new and full moon, a swell sets in upon this coast, and causes heavy and remarkable breakers. These were experi- enced by Commander Wilkes, in 1841, who says : — " While standing out from San Francisco, the wind died away, and we were obliged to anchor in 7 fathoms ; but a few hours after this a heavy swell arose, apparently without cause, and in a short time we were riding in the midst of breakers, many of which broke over and swept our decks, rendering our situation very precarious for several hours. Vessels, at these times, should avoid leaving the bay of San Francisco without a sufficient breeze to carry them to sea or beyond the influence of the breakers. If becalmed, vessels may anchor in 12 fathoms water with perfect safety." The entrance to the bay is very striking, bold, and rocky ; a mile wide and three miles in length, with deep water and no obstructions. It then expands into an extensive bay, in which lie several islands ; that of San Angelo is the largest and highest, and covered with vegetation to its very top. The next in size are Yerba Buena and Alcantras. The smaller ones are covered with guano, over which an immense number of sea-fowl are seen hovering. The shores of the bay extend north and south beyond the visible horizon ; to the east is the coast range, and beyond rise the lofty Californian mountains, brilliant with all the beautiful tints that the atmosphere in this climate gives. The Bay of San i^ rancisco is 36 miles in length by an average of 6 in width; a large portion of its southern, eastern, and noi'them shores are bordered by extensive and wide mud-flats, preventing the landing, at low water, of even a boat ; so much so that the eastern shore may be said to be inaccessible for a distance of 30 miles ; and this impediment prevents it from ever becoming useful, except by the construction of extensive artificial works. On the north it is bounded by the Straits of San Pablo, which divide it from the bay of that name. The Bay of San Pablo is nearly circular, about ten miles in diameter, the larger segment of which is a mud-flat, with but a few feet of water over it ; this renders its shore on the western side quite inaccessible. On i 4 ■ i ^ THE WEST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. 101 I, the east side is the channel, with a sufficient depth of water for large vessels, leading to the Straits of Karquines, at the mouth of the Sacra- mento River. On the western side of the Bay of San Francisco, from the Straits of San Pablo, for a distance of 15 miles, the country is broken and moun- tainous, and the shores rocky and indented by small bays, which are useless. These obstructions reduce this extensive bay very much in size, and it becomes still more so when the safety and convenience of vessels is taken into consideration ; indeed, with the deep water, cross tides, and exposed situations, there are but two safe anchorages, viz : — Yerba Buena and Sausalito. Yerba Buena lies on the south of the entrance, between the island and town of the same name, and is but of small extent, with mud-flats, bare at low water, to the channel ; it is also very much exposed to the pre- vailing winds, which blow at times with great violence. It is the usual, but by no means the best anchorage, and has but a scanty supply of water, not sufficient for the population of the town, or the vessels that frequent it ; this, added to the rocky point on which the town is situated, will pre- vent it from ever becoming the seat of trade. Sausalito or Whaler's Harbour is on the north side of the entrance, under Table Hill, which protects vessels from the prevailing westerly winds. This anchorage is the principal resort of whalers. Here they can obtain wood and water, and refit. The water in the summer is ob- tained from small springs. The extent of land around this bay is limited to a few acres, the hills rising precipitately, and the high spurs cutting off communication with the country adjoining it. From Yerba Buena the distance to the mouth of the bay of San Pablo is 10 miles, the course N. by W., passing to the right of San Angelos Island, and to the left of Molate. The points San Pedro and San Pablo, which form the mouth of the bay, are two miles asunder. The channel to the Strait of Karquines is on the east side of the bay of San Pablo. It has not less than 4j fathoms water, and is a mile wide. The Strait of Karquines, through which the river Sacramento dis- charges its waters, runs nearly east and west for the distance of 8 miles, and at its narrowest point is hftlf a mile wide, with very deep water from 12 to 17 fathoms. The banks on both sides are high, and composed of sandstone. The Napa Creek empties into the strait from the north, about a mile from the bay of San Pablo. It affords fresh water. Passing through Karquines Strait, the Bay of Sooson is entered. It extends eleven miles to the north-east, and is two miles wide. Sooson Creek flows into it on the west, and on the east it receives the waters 102 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR of the Sacramento and its tributaries. Sooson Bay is not deep, and the greater part of it to the north-east has only sufficient water to float boats. The channels through the delta of the Sacramento are narrow, and pass into each other, forming islands. These cover an area of 25 square miles, which is entirely overgrown with Tula (Scirpus lacustris). The true channel of the river lies through the south branch, its direction being due east. It has suflicient water for vessels not drawing over 12 feet. Eleven miles from Sooson Bay, the course of the river changes to the north for two miles. At this point the left hand channel must be taken, as it is the one leading to the Sacramento proper, the right one leading to Marsh's Landing and the San Joachin. In proceeding up the Sacramento, the river gradually changes its course to the north, with several con- siderable bends ; and at the low stage of water is navigable as far as New Helvetia (Captain Suter's), at the mouth of the American Fork, a distance of 50 miles above where its deltas discharge into Sooson Bay, and, by the water commui:ication, eighty miles from Yerba Buena. Three and a half miles above the American Fork, sand-banks are en- countered. These intercept the navigation during the dry season, and are met with as far as the mouth of the Feather River, across which there is a bar and ford, but it is partly quicksand. Above the Feather River, the Sacramento changes its character, becoming very tortuous. During the annual freshlets, these rivers would afford good opportunities for the transportation of timber from the upper country, where it is found of large dimensions, and in great abundance. The branch leading to the mouth of the San Joachin is 10 miles long, and is navigable for vessels to that place. The San Joachin can only be ascended in boats, and with these but a few miles in the dry season ; in the season of the rains, the country for several miles around its mouth is overflowed, and when not under water, is a large marsh. Captain Wilkes says : — ** The Bay of San Francisco is well adapted for a naval depot, or a place for whalers to recruit at. There is no place where a natural site for a town can be found throughout the whole bay ; and it appears extremely difficult to select one where the locality would pennit of extensive artificial improvements." The following directions are by Captain Beechey, R.N., a copy of whose survey of the harbour is on our chart of the coast, and to which we would refer the reader : — " The harbour of San Francisco, for the perfect security it affords to vessels of any burthen, and the supplies of fresh beef and vegetables, wood, and fresh water, may vie with any port on the north-west coast of America. It is not, however, without its disadvantages, of which the difficulty of landing at low water, and the remoteness of the water- THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 103 I ing-place from the only anchorage whi.h I could recommend, are the greatest. Ships bound to San Francisco from the northward and westward, should endeavour to make Punta de los Reyes, a bold and conspicuous headland, without any danger lying off it sufficiently far to endanger the ship. In clear weather, when running for the land before the latitude is known, or the Punta can be distinguished, its situation may be known by a Table-Hill terminating the range that passes at the back of Bodega. This hill in one with the Punta de los Reyes bears E. {mag,) If ships are not too far off, they will see, at the same time, San Bruno, two hills to the southward of San Francisco, having the appearance of islands ; and from the mast-head, if the weather be very clear, the South Farallon will, in all probability, be seen. Punta de los Reyes, when viewed from the W. or S.W., has also the appearance of an island, being connected by low land to the two hills eastward. It is of moderate height, and, as it stands at the angle formed by the coast-line, cannot be mistaken. Sound- ings may be had off this coast, in depths varying with the latitude. In the parallel of the Farallones they extend a greater distance from the main land, in consequence of these islands lying beyond the general outline of the coast. The Farallones are two clusters of rocks, which, in consequence of the shoals about them, are extremely dangerous to vessels approaching San Francisco in foggy weather. The southern cluster, of which in clear weather one of the islands may be seen from the ma«>t-head eight or nine leagues, is the largest and highest, and lies exactly S. 3° E. true, 18 miles from Punta de los Reyes. The small cluster of rocks lies to the N.W., and still further in that direction there are breakers ; but I do not know how far they extend from the rocks above water. In a thick foggy night, we struck soundings in 25 fathoms, stiff clay, near them ; and on standing off, carried regular soundings to 32 fathoms, after which they deepened rapidly.* Coming from the southward, or when inside the Farallones, the position of the entrance to San Francisco may be known by the land receding considerably between the table-hill already mentioned, and San Bruno to * According to Vancouver there is also a cluster of rocks, scarcely above the surface of the water, at the distance of 12i miles S. 36" W. from Punta de los Reyes. There may also be sunken rocks to the south-eastward of the Farallones, as the following paragraph appeared in the New York Cars^^e, in August, 1850 : — "The brigantine Kalama struck upon a sunken rock on the 10th of April, off the harbour of San Francisco, not laid down in any chart At the time, the south-east Farallon bore N.W., distant about 12 miles. Hove about, sounded, and cruised about for two hours, but could find no soundings. The Kalama drew 13 feet water at the time of leaving Son Francisco." . . .." v 104 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR Hill, which, at a distance, appears to terminate the ridge extending from Santa Cruz to the northward. The land to the northward or southward of these two hills has nothing remarkable about it to a stranger ; it is, generally speaking, sufficiently high to be seen 13 to 15 leagues, and inland is covered with wood. About 81 miles from the fort, at the entrance of San Francisco, there is a bar of sand extending in a S. by £. direction across the mouth of the harbour. The soundings, on approaching it, gradually decrease to 44 and 6 fathoms low water, spring tide, depending upon the situation of the ship ; and as regularly increase on the opposite side to no bottom with the hand-leads. In crossing the bar, it is well to give the northern shore a good berth, and bring the small white island, Alcatrasses, in one with the fort or south bluff, if it can be conveniently done, as they may then ensure six fathoms ; but if ships get to the northward, so as to bring the south bluff in one with the Island of Yerba Buena, they will find but 44 ; which is little enough with the heavy sea that sometimes rolls over tiie bar ; besides, the sea will sometimes break heavily in that depth, and endanger small vessels : to the northward of this bearing the water is more shallow. Approaching the entrance, the Island of Alcatrasses may be opened with the fort ; and the best directions are to keep mid-channel, or on the weather side. On the south shore the dangers are above water ; and it is only necessary to avoid being set into the bay, between the fort and Poirt Lobos. If necessary, ships may pass inside, or to the south- ward of the One Mile Mock ; but it is advisable to avoid doing so, if possible. On approaching it, guard against the tide, which sets strong from the outer point toward it, and in a line for the fort. Off Punta Boneta there is a dangerous reef, on which the sea breaks very heavy : it lies S.W. from the point, and no ship should approach it nearer than to bring the fort in one with Yerba Buena Island. In the entrance it is particularly necessary to attend to the sails, in consequence of the eddy tides and the flaws of wind that come off the land. The boats should also be ready for lowering down on the instant, as the entrance is very narrow, and the tides, running strong and in eddies, are apt to sweep a ship over upon one side or the other, and the water is in general too deep for anchorage ; besides, the wind may fail when most required. The strongest tides and the deepest water lie over on the north shore. Should a ship be swept into the sandy bay west of the fort, she will find good anchorage on a sandy bottom in 10 and 15 fathoms out of the tide ; or in the event of meeting the ebb at the entrance, she might haul in, and there await the change. There is no danger off the fort at a greater distance than 100 yards. As soon as a ship passes the fort, she enters a large sheet of water in which are several islands, two rocks above water, and one under, THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 105 exceedingly dangerous to shipping, of which 1 shall speak hereafter. One branch of the harbour extends in a S.E. by S. direction, exactly 30 miles, between two ridges of hills, one of which extends along the coast towards the Bay of Monterey, and the other from San Pablo, close at the back of San Jose to San Juan Baptista, where it unites with the former. This arm terminates in several little winding creeks, leading up to the missions of Santa Clara and San Jos6. The other great branch takes a northerly direction ; passes the Puntas San Pablo and San Pedro, opens out into a spacious basin, ten miles in width, and then converging to a second strait, again expands, and is connected with three rivers, one of which is said to take its rise in the rocky mountains near the source of the Columbia. As a general rule in San Francisco, the deepest water will be found where the tide is the strongest; and out of the current there is always a difficulty in landing at low water. All the bays, except such as are swept by the tide, have a muddy flat extending nearly from point to point, great part of which is dry at low water, and occasions the before- mentioned difficulty of landing; and the north-eastern shore, from Punta San Pablo to the Rio Calaveros, beyond San Jose, is so flat that light boats only can approach it at high water. In low tides it dries some hundred yards off shore, and has only one fathom water at an average distance of 1 g mile. The northern side of the great basin beyond San Pablo is of the same nature. After passing the fort a ship may work up for the anchorage without apprehension, attending to the lead and the tides.* The only hidden danger is a rock, with one fathom on it at low water, spring tides, which lies between Alcatrasses and Yerba Buena Islands. It has seven fathoms alongside it : the lead, therefore, gives no warning. The marks when on it are, the north end of Yerba Buena Island in one with two trees (nearly the last of the straggling ones) south of Palos Colorados, a wood of pines situated on the top of the hill, over San Antonio, too conspicu- ous to be overlooked; the left hand or S.E. corner of the Presidio just open with the first cape to the westward of it; Sausalito Point open J point with the north end of Alcatrasses ; and the Island of Molate in one with Punta de San Pedro. When to the eastward of Alcatrasses, and working to the S.E., or, indeed, to the westward, it is better not to stand towards this rock nearer than to bring tiio table-peak in one with the north end of Alcatrasses Island, or to shut in Sausalito Point with the south extreme of it. The position of the rock may generally be known by a ripple ; but this is not always the case. There are no other directions necessary in working for Yerba Buena Cove, which I recommend as an anchorage to all vessels intending to remain at San Francisco. • 106 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR In the navigation of the harbour much advantage may be derived from a knowledge of the tides. It must be remembered that there are two separate extensive branches of water lying nearly at right angles with each other. The ebbs from these unite in the centre of the bay, and occasion ripplings and eddies, and other irregularities of the stream, sometimes dangerous to boats. The anchorage at Yerba Buena Cove is free from these annoyances, and the passage up to it is nearly so after passing the Presidio. The ebb begins to make first from the Santa Clara arm, and runs down the south shore a full hour before the flood has done about Yerba Buena and Angel Island ; and the flood, in its return, makes also first along the same shore, forcing the ebb over the Yerba Buena side, where it unites with the ebb from the north arm. The flood first strikes over the Lime Rock,* and passing the Island of Alcatrasses, where it diverges, one part goes quietly to Santa Clara, the other sweeping over the sunken rock, and round the east end of Angel Island, unites with a rapid stream through the narrow channel formed by Angel Island and the main, and both rush to the northward through the Estrecho de San Pablo to restore the equilibrium of the basin beyond, the small rocks of Pedro Blanco and the Alcatrasses Island lying in the strength of the stream. The mean of 80 observations gave • the time of high water (full and change) at Yerba Buena an- chorage lOh. The tide at the springs rises . . Neap Average rate of ebb at spring tide Flood .... Duration of Flood At Sausalito the mean of 17 obser- vations gave the time of high water, on the days of full and change, as Kise (full and change) . . . Duration of Flood 7ft. 1ft. 2k. Ik. 52m. 10 in. sometimes 8ft. 8 in. 10 in. at neap Ik. Of. Ok. 6f. Of. Of. >» 5h. 25m. 9h. 51m. 6ft. Oin. 2ft. 6in. 4h. 43m. On quitting San Francisco, the direction of the wind in the ofling should be considered. If it blow from the S.W. there would be some difficulty in getting out of the bay to the southward of Punta de los Reyes. The residents assert that an easterly wind in the harbour does not extend far beyond the entrance, and that a ship would, in consequence, be becalmed on the bar and perhaps exposed to a heavy swell, or she might be swept back again, and be obliged to anchor in an exposed * See the plan in the Chart. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 107 and situation. Northerly wind's appear to be most generally approved, as they are more steady and of longer duration than any others : they may, indeed, be said to be the trade-wind on the coast. With them it is advisable to keep the north shore on board, as the strength of the ebb takes that side, and as on the opposite shore, near the One Mile Rock, the tide sets rather upon the land. In case of necessity, a ship can anchor to the eastward of the One Mile Rock ; but to the S.W. of the rock the ground is very uneven. The wind generally fails in the entrance or takes a direction in or out. From the fairway steer S.W. ^ W., and you will carry seven fathoms over the bar, half ebb, spring tide. This 1 judge to be a good course in and out with a fair wind. I would avoid, by every endeavour, the chance of falling into the sandy bay to the southward of Lobos Point, and also closing with the shore to the N.W. of the Punta Boneta." Captain Belcher has said : — " About lOh. we got sight of the land and ran in, the breeze freshening, as it generally does on entering the heads. This is a very common occurrence at this port, requiring small sail to beat out, and suddenly losing the tide and breeze together. It is, there- fore, advisable to keep the fairway marks open until reaching the bar, before hauling to the southward, by which more wind will be procured and unpleasant swells escaped. Considering myself a fair pilot for this port, I would say to those approaching it, after decreasing the depth from 30 to 15 fathoms, mud, if the wind be light it is advisable, or preferable, to anchor and wait for daylight, or fog clearing off, but be prepared to weigh and stand off should the wind freshen ; but do not go beyond 30 fathoms. The breeze always dispels the fog. Do not desert a safe harbour when an hour or two will show the road in. The fort in one with Yerba Buena Island leads over the bar in four fathoms, and no ship should cross farther north on account of the rolling swell ; but the best course is to keep Las Alcatrasses touching the fort." To this may be added the remarks of Captain John Hall : — " In entering this port, which is one of the best and most interesting, from its security and magnitude, in the world, great attention must be paid to the tides, which, during the full and change of the moon, run very rapid, and, I should think, in mid-channel at the rate of six miles per hour. A vessel going in would do well to keep in the middle of the stream, as on both sides there are very strong eddies, in which you are apt to lose the command of the helm, and consequently are obliged to anchor. After getting within the heads, keep Fort Blanco about a point on the starboard bow. Passing the fort, the anchorage is situated in a small bay, immediately abreast of the presidio, where a vessel will find 108 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR \, good holding-ground in five fathoms, about a cable's length from the beach. Provisions are cheap. The harbour also abounds with fish, which can be procured with a net in great quantities." The entrance of the bay has also been surveyed by M. de Tessan, of the French navy, from whose chart we copy the following : — " The currents of ebb and flood, being very strong in the channel (6 knots), occasion, behind the points, very strong rollers, in which it is dangerous for a vessel to be placed. In consequence the channel is very narrow, half a mile, and small vessels only can attempt to tack in it. To enter the channel, it will be necessary to wait until the flood. You can remain under sail when you anchor, should the breeze be slight, until the ebb-tide." The following remarks on entering the harbour of San Francisco will be found useful to masters of ships bound to that place. They are derived chiefly from Mr. Richardson, Captain of the port, and also an experienced pilot for that harbour : — ** Ships coming in 'from the south Farallones should run in on a N.K. by E. \ E. course, and bring Point Lobos on the same bearing, in order to cross the bar in 6.^ fathoms, and to keep as nearly mid-channel as possible, there being a bank of four fathoms on the south shore, outside, which has generally a heavy swell on it. There is a similar bank also on the north shore, extending at least five miles out. Between these two banks there is anchorage in 10, 12, and 15 fathoms, as you draw in. After getting inside, and having passed the fort, you can anchor any where in as far as the Alcatrasses, there being no hidden danger. In going for Sausalito, with a light wind and ebb tide, it will be very advisable to steer directly for Angel Island, as the tide sets strong against Sausalito Bay, and tends to heave the ship into deep water. A ship leaving Sausalito, should avoid being set into Lime Rock Bay, by standing over towards the fort point, and from the fort point stand across to the northern shore to keep out of the eddy current in the S.E. bay, outside the fort. The ebb mr.kes on each shore at least two hours before it sets out in the stream, and, therefore, a ship should not leave the anchorage until the tide had fallen a foot, by the shore. These remarks apply chiefly tCK vessels leaving with a foul wind. If the wind be fair, and of suincient strength to render the ship per- fectly under command, she can then start at the last of the flood. The ebb tide makes from Yerba Buena Bay across towards Lime Rock, thence into Mile Rock Bay (so that ships going out have not unfrequently been set between Mile Rock and the main), and from that bay it runs to the N.W, round Point Lobos. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 109 Outside the fort-point the ebb sets to the N.W. round Point Boneta, and the flood runs to the S.E. ^ If the Farallones are not made, and the position of the harbour not very certain, some difficulty may be experienced in discovering the entrance, particularly fro»n the northward. It may, however, be known by a long sandy stripe of land just to the southward of the entrance, which has much the appearance of a hay field ; and also not far from this shore is a remarkable rock, having an arch in it. To the northward of the entrance are three or four rocks close in-shore, very white on their tops, and at nearly equal distances from each other." The bay is now being re-surveyed by order of the United States Government, and the following buoys have been moored, under the superintendence of Commander Cadwallader Ringgold, U.S.N. Tonquin Point Shoal, making out from North Bay, has been sur- veyed, and a black spar-buoy moored on the N.W. end, in 15 feet at low water. Vessels coming in from sea, are directed to pass the buoy on the starboard bow, at the distance of two cables length. Blossom Rock. — This rock has a large black buoy, terminating in a cone of three feet, moored upon it, in 15 feet water. The point of the rock lies 20 feet north-eastward from the buoy, and has only six feet upon it at low water. The tide sweeps over and across this dangerous rock with irregularity and great velocity. It must, therefore, be ap- proached with great caution, particularly with light winds. Southampton Middle Grounds. — This extensive shoal, extending north and south, lies to the eastward of Angel Island, and has on its south extremity a black spar-buoy in 15 feet, at low water. On its centre there is a red spar buoy, and on its north extremity there is also a black and white spar-buoy, both of which are in a similar depth. The soundings on the west side of this shoal, decrease abruptly from five fathoms blue mud to hard sand, in three fathoms. Invincible Rock is a dangerous shoal near the Straits of San Pablo, and situated about 400 yards to the southward of the Two Brothers. It is marked by a black spar-buoy in 15 feet, at low water. Kincom Point Rocks. — A ledge of rocks lying off this point, with a channel inside, has a black spar buoy moored upon it, in six feet at low water. Pilots are also stated to have been appointed, Dec. 30th, 1850. .On the 1st of November, 1851, the following notice was issued: — " On and after this day, a lantern will be hoisted at dark, at the outer Telegraph Station, showing a blue and yellow light seaward, at an eleva- tion of 3000 feet (?) above tide water. THe position of this station is ^f- no SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR such, that on the centre bar, in six fathoms water, it bears E.N.E. h E., Alcatras and Fort Head being in one." POINT DE LOS REYES.— From the entrance to San Francisco the coast trends to the N. 62° W., a distance of nearly 30 miles, to Point de los Reyes. For a distance of about 12 miles, it consists of abrupt cliffs, with very unequal surfaces, and has a most dreary and barren aspect ; it then falls lower, and forms a low, sandy, projecting point. A few scattered trees grow on the more elevated land, and some patches of dwarf shrubs in the vallies ; but the rest of the country consists of barren rocks, or with a very slight covering of vegetation. Off the low pro- jecting point some breakers extend nearly two miles to the E.S.E. To the westward of this low projecting point, the coast bends a little inwards, and forms with Point de los Reyes an open bay, named, by Vancouver, Port Sir Francis Drake ; because he supposed it to be the place in which that navigator had anchored. The eastern side of the bay is composed of white cliffs, as is also the coast between it and Point de los Reyes, though the latter is lower. In consequence of the exposed state of the anchorage, being open to the S. and S.E. quarters, it is unsafe to anchor here when the wind blows from those directions. It is said that you may occasionally anchor here in May to October. Vancouver remarked in November, 1792: — "According to the Spaniards, this is the bay in which Sir Francis Drake anchored ; but however safe he might then have found it, in this season of the year it promised us little shelter or security. The wind blowing fresh out of the bay from N.N.W. I did not think it proper to lose the opportunity of proceeding with all dispatch to San Francisco ; where there was little doubt of our obtaining a supply of those refreshments which were now much wanted by the whole crew." Captain Beechey has also expressed an unfavourable opinion of this anchorage : — " We passed Point de los Reyes, and awaited the return of day off some white cliffs, which, from being situated so near the parallel of lat. 38° N., are, in all probability, those which induced Sir Francis Drake to bestow upon this country the name of New Albion. They appear on the eastern side of a bay too exposed to authorise the conjecture of Vancouver, that it was the same in which Sir Francis refitted his vessel." Point de los Reyes, in lat. 38° 1' 30'' N. and long. 123° 2' 30" W., is a high, bold, and very prominent headland, visible, in clear weather, 50 miles off. It is one of the most conspicuous promontories on the coast, south of Cape Classet, at Fuca Strait, and cannot easily be mistaken, as when seen from the north or south, at the distance of five or six leagues, it appears insular, owing to its projecting into the sea, and the land behind it being less high than usual near the coast ; but the interior THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. Ill country preserves a more lofty appearance, although these mountains extend in a direction further from the shore than those along the coast to the northward of the point. The point stretches like a peninsula into the ocean, where its highest part terminates in steep cliffs, moderately elevated, and nearly perpendicular to the sea, which beats against them with great violence. Southward of the point the shore is composed of low white cliffs, and forms Sir Francis Drake's Bay. THE FARALLONES are a group of detached islets, or rather rocks off the entrance to San Francisco. They lie in a N.W. and S.E. direc- tion, and form two groups, the north-western and south-eastern j the distance from the extremes of which is about 12 miles. They are apparently of volcanic origin, as most of the rocks have evidently been once in a state of fusion. It is said that there is no fresh water on them, and that they are much resorted to by sea fowl. The south-eastern island is considered a good mark for San Francisco, and it is probable, that after the lapse of a few years, a lighthouse may be erected on it. In the whole group of the Farallones, there are seven which appear above the water. The south-east islet is the largest of the group, and is distant from the fort, at the entrance of San Francisco, 28 miles in a S. 68° W. (true) direction. This islet is about 150 or 200 feet high, and on the south-east side, there is anchorage in 1 1 fathoms water, hard (probably rocky) bottom, which Is tolerably sheltered from the north- west wind and sea. It is said, that the larger of the Farallones has the form of a saddle, when viewed in cert .n directions, in consequence of each extremity rising into a hill. In order to distinguish between the north-west and south-east groups of these islets, it is only necessary to observe, that the former group shows three rocks of nearly the same size, lying nearly east and west of each other, nearly a mile apart, and sending off a reef to ihe eastward, about a mile in extent. About one-third the distance from the south-east Farallones to San Francisco, there are 41 fathoms, sand and mud ; from whence the sound- ings gradually diminish until up with the bar, off the entrance to ti»e harbour. The bottom in the vicinity of the Farallones, appears to be of a very tenacious quality, as Captain Beechey says, ** we stood to the southward from Point de los Reyes, during the night, and about three o'clock in the morning, unexpectedly struck soundings upon a clayey bank, in S5 fathoms, very near the Farallones, a dangerous cluster of rocks, which, until better known, ought to be avoided. The ship was put about immediately ; but the next cast was 25 fathoms, in so stiff a clay, that the line was broken. The weather was very misty, and a long swell rolled towards the reefs, which, had there been less wind, would have obliged us to anchor ; but we increased our distance from them, 112 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR and deepened the water. This cluster of rocks is properly divided into two parts, of which, the south-eastern is the largest and the highest, and may be seen 9 or 10 leagues in clear weather. The most dangerous part is apparently towards the north west." BODEGA BAY is about 40 miles north of San Francisco, and is a small and inconvenient port, inaccessible, except by vessels of a light draught of water. The anchorage outside, is rocky and dangerous. Off Cape Bodega, there is a small rocky islet, having a reef extending off it, about three quarters of a mile to the south-eastward, close to which are 6 and 9 fathoms. It is high water on the days of full and change, at llh. 30 m., with a rise of tide of 7 feet. This port has lately been surveyed by Commander Sir E. Belcher, R.N., who says of it : — " Bodega is an extensive bay, almost joining (by a creek) the port of Sir Francis Drake, at its southern end, which is very shallow. On the northern side of the bay, at a small creek or estuary (nearly dry at low water springs) stand two Russian buildings ; one a store-house, the floor of which was filled with grain and a few marine stores, and the other, the residence of those left in charge, amounting perhaps to three men, their wives, and children. The anchorage is within a rocky islet, with a reef and bank extending about three-quarters of a mile, which is covered thickly by fucus gigan- teus. The bottom is coarse sand, with some patches of clay, but bad holding-ground. Here, however, it is customary for the Russians (who have excellent ground tackle) to ride out the south-west gales, inasmuch as the heavy swell which immediately tumbles in, or generally preceeds, prevents any moderate sailing vessel from making any head, and the sea- room is but scant. I am informed that the Russians have experienced several Josses here, but no lives. At the houses there is excellent water carefully conducted by spouts, for the convenience of hose, which allow of filling without removing the casks ; and although we found the runs small, yet being steady and continuous, they afforded employment for two boats. I am satisfied, also, that it is as good, and more expeditiously obtaine than at Sausalito, San Francisco, where it is necessary to fill from wells, and injure the boats embarking it." This port has also been visited by Captain John Hall, who says: — " To sail into this port, when the winds are from the N.W., (and these are the prevailing winds throughout nearly the whok year, with the excep- tion of the winter months), a vessel coming from the northward, should pass between the point and the rock, as a dangerous shoal lies immediately off the south end of the rock. We anchored with the rock bearing W. by S., distant three-fourths of a mile. The bottom is good holding- ground all throughout, being a mixture of clay and sand. In port, a THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 113 vessel is sheltered from all winds but the South and S.W. The watering- place is situated in the small bay where the Russian storehouse stands, and the water is good and easy of access." In November, 1792, the Port of Bodega was visited by Vancouver, who thus writes : — " Our attention was directed to the appearance of a port to the eastward, for which we immediately steered. By sun-set, we were close in with the shore, which extended from N.W. by W. to S.J&l.E. I E., so that we were considerably embayed. We were now off the northern point of an inner bay that seemed divided into two or three arms, the soundings had been regular from 40 to 28 fathoms, the bottom a bed of coral reck, sand, and shells. Being anxious not to leave any opening on the coast unexamined, and as the evening was serene and pleasant, I was induced to anchor, though on a rocky bottom, off this point for the night, which bore by compass from usN.E. by E., two miles distant, that my design might early in the morning be carried into execution. Our situation here was by no means pleasant; during the night two deep sea lines were cut through by the rocks, and at four in the morning the buoy was seen drifting past ship, and was proved to have been severed in the same way. Lest the cable should share the same fate, no time was lost in weighing the anchor ; fortunately, however, the cable had not received any injury. A light breeze from the land permitted us to stand across the bay, which we soon discovered to be Port Bodega ; its north point is formed of low, steep, cliffs, and when seen from the south, has the appearance of an island, but is firmly connected with the main land. To the east the land retires and forms a small inlet, apparently favourable to anchorage ; it has a flat rock, on which the water broke, in its entrance, and has not any other visible danger excepting that of being much exposed to the South and S.E. winds. Not being able to sail into the bay, we stood towards its south point, which lies from the north point S. 30° E., at the distance of seven miles. Within these limits appeared three small openings in the coast, one already noticed to the eastward of the north point, the other two immediately within the south point ; across these a connected chain of breakers seemed to extend, with three high white rocks, which nearly blockaded the passage. Although very solicitous of gaining more intel- ligence, this was all the information I was able to procure of this place, which required to be minutely surveyed by our boats before the vessel should enter ; the state of the weather was ill-calculated for such service ; it was very dark and gloomy, and the depression of the mercury in the barometer indicated an approaching storm. Our soundings, when under 35 fathoms, were on a locky bottom." About 30 miles to the northward of the Port of Bodega, is the Russia)?, settlement of Ross, which, it is said, is now abandoned. It is situated 1 114. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR on land elevated about 100 feet above the sea, the outline of vhich is cliffy, with alternate rocky and gravelly margin, rendering landing, ex- cepting in very fine weather, nearly impracticable. The anchorage off is bad, by reason of beds of rock above and below water, and the constant liability to fogs, rendering it unsafe to break ground, unless with a fair wind. Tlie hills above it, which command the presidio, are sparingly clothed with fir-trees. The main government establishment, or fort, as such enclosures are termed in these countries, consists of a large square, fenced in with strong planks of 15 feet in height, and furnished with block-houses or watch-towers at two angles ; one commanding the sea, and the other the land sides, or covering the east, south, and west faces. From Port Bodega to Cape Mendocino, the coast consists of high, bold cliffs, with but few indentations ; and what dangers there are, lie close to the shore. The kelp will always indicate foul ground, and it is recommended to avoid it. After running along the coast p distance of 40 miles, you will reach Punta Barra de Arena, in, about lat. 38° 50', which is described by Vancouver, as *' a conspicuous mark on the coast, the shores to the north of it taking a N. 10° W. direction. Its northern side is composed of black rugged rocks, on which the sea breaks with great violence ; to the south of it the coast trends S. 35° E. Its southern side is composed of low, sandy, or clayey cliffs, remarkably white, though interspersed with streaks of a dull green colour. The country above it rises with a gentle ascent, and is chequered with copses of forest trees and clear ground, which gives it the appearance of being in a high state of cultivation. The land, further south, is high, steep to the sea, and presented a rude and barren aspect. As we approached the shove advancing to the southward, the country became nearly destitute of wood and verdure, at least that part of it in the vicinity of the sea shore, which was nearly straight and compact. The more interior hills, rising behind those forming the coast, were tolerably well wooded." From Punta Barra de Arena, the coast runs to the N. by W., a distance of about 55 miles to a slight projection, named Punta Delgada, imme- diately to the eastward of which, the coast ftdls back about two leagues. This part of the coast appeared to Vancouver on his first visit to be very much broken, but a subsequent examination proved it to be compact, the deception having been occasioned by the distance from which it was viewed, and by the irregularity of the surface, which rises abruptly in low sandy cliffs from a connected beach which uniformly composes the sea shore. The interior country appears to be nearly an uninterrupted forest, but towards the sea side, presents a pleasing variety of open spaces. In sailing along the coast from Point Delgada, southward, to Punta Barra de Arena, at the distance of four or five miles, the shore \ THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 115 J will appear compact with two or three small rocky islets near it. As you proceed, a distant view will be obtained of the inland country, which is composed of very lofty rugged mountains, extending in a ridge nearly parallel to the direction of the coast. These are in general destitute of wood, and the more elevated parts are covered with perpetual snow. CAPE MENDOCINO.— From Point Delgada to Cape Mendocino the distance is about 40 miles. Cape Mendocino is in latitude 40° 27' N., and is formed by two high promontories, about 10 miles apart ; the southernmost, which is the highest, is situated in latitude 40° 23' N. Off the cape are some rocky islets and sunken rocks, at near a league from the shore. The southernmost of these from the northernmost promontory lies S. 61° W., about a league distant; and within it are two rocky islets, in shape much resembling hay -cocks. The northern- most of them lies N. 3° W. distant five or six miles, and is nearly of the same shape and size as the other, to which it is apparently connected by a ledge of rocks, whose outermost part lies from the above promon- tory, N. 38° W., about two leagues distant, having a smaller islet, about midway between them. On some parts of this ledge, the sea constantly breaks with great violence ; on others, at intervals only. The broken water appeared to Vancouver from the mast-head to extend along the coast as far north as could be discerned, which, however, was at no great distance, owing to the weather being thick and hazy. The whole of this cape, though by no means a t ery projecting headland, is very remarkable, from being the highest on the sea-shore of this part of the coast. The mountains at its back are considerably elevated, and form altogether a high steep mass which does not break into perpendicular cliffs, but is composed of various hills that rise abruptly and are divided by many deep chasms. In some of these, as well a? on some of the ridges of the hills, are a few dwarf trees. The general surface is covered with vegetation of a dull green colour, interspersed in some places with perpendicular strata of red earth or clay. South of the cape, the coast is nearly straight, forming only a trifling bend. Its elevation is regular, it may be considered as high land, and is apparently steep-to, as Vancouver sounded without gaining bottom with 120 fathoms of line, at distances of from two to five leagues from the shore. ^ A sunken rock, on which the sea breaks occasionally, has lately been discovered by Lieut. Knox, U.S. Navy, at about eight miles N.W. by W. from the rocks off Cape Mendojino. Vessels passing the cape should give it a berth of about nine miles, although a vessel may pass inside the reef ; but the ground is foul. To the northward of Cape Mendocino, the country is not so high beyond the rocky islets, where it is of a moderate height. With the 1 o 116 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR iil south promontory of Cape Mendocino, bearing S. G0° E., distant 1 1 miles, it is stated, that there is no bottom with a line 120 fathoms long. Vancouver says, ** From Cape Mendocino, the coast takes a direction N. 13° E. After passing the above islets, the shores become straight and compact, not affording tlie smallest shelter; and, although rising gradually from the water's edge to a moderate height only, yet the distant interior country was composed of hills of great elevation ; before which, were presented a great variety of hills and dales, agreeably inter- spersed with wood-land and clear spots. The coast we passed this after- noon seemed to be generally defended by a sandy beach ; but the evening brought us to a country of a very different description, whose shores were composed of rocky precipices, with numberless small rocks and rocky islets, extending about a mile into the sea ; the most pro- jecting part, which is situated in lat. 41° 8', obtained the name of Rocky Point, (Trinidad Head, of the recent surveyors). When abreast of Rocky Point, the colour of the sea suddenly changes from the oceanic hue, to a very light river-coloured water, extending as far a-liead as could be discerned, A detached rocky islet, about half a mile in circuit, lies from Rocky Point N. 11° W., distant 13 miles, and about half a league from the shore. A passage may be obtained in 35 to 50 fathoms water, black sandy bottom, within this rocky islet." At about 15 miles north of Cape Mendocino, is the entrance of the Eel River, a small stream, having nine feet water on the bar. The entrance is represented to be very narrow, and the swell so high, generally, as to render it difficult and dangerous for sailing vessels, although steamers might enter and depart without difficulty. HUMBOLDT BAY.— The entrance of this bay is about 25 miles to the northward of Cape Mendocino. It is about half a mile wide between the breakers, but when within, it widens considerably, the whole extent of the bay being 16 miles long, and from four to five miles wide. The entrance between the breakers is nearly straight, and its direction is rather along the coast ; it is about a mile long, and is said to have a depth of 18 to 21 feet at low water on the bar. This bay is perfectly accessible, except in very heavy weather, when the sea breaks ^tirely across the entrance. The surveyor, Lieut. Alden, U.S. Navy, at the period of the examination, had no trouble in getting in, and was able to beat out against a very light breeze, with little or no tide in his favour. He thus describes it (1851) : — " This body of water partakes more of the character of a lagoon, than an ordinary bay. It is 16 miles long, and from one to five broad. It is broadest at either extremity, where it is but a great grassy flat, washed with about one foot of water, (when the tide is out) and broken here and there by navigable sluices. The THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 11' entrance is practicable, except in very bad weather, when the sea breaks entirely across it. There are 21 feet on the bar at low water, and the ordinary strength of the tide does not exceed two knots. Under unfavourable circumstances, at low water, and with a very liglit breeze blowing directly in the channel, the schooner went to sea without difficulty. The two sea walls, or narrow necks of land, which so nearly shut out the sea, are covered with sand-hills, ranging from 10 to 40 and 50 feet in height. On the North Spit, I have marked the place where, I think, the lighthouse should be located. It is the nearest point to the entrance, and is therefore less liable to be obscured by fog ; and with a beacon father back, the two would form the best range to pass between the north and south breakers — not that it should be attempted at night, unless under the most favourable circumstances. The country is hilly, almost mountainous, in the vincinity of Humboldt. The fir and the red wood predominate in the forests, and I am informed that the land possesses every requisite for farming purposes. The cattle luxuriate the year round, in green grass, and the tallest grass I ever saw. The temperature is very equable ; they have a slight frost in the fall, and the winter only differs from the summer by being more pleasant. Elk and deer are found in abundance, and many varieties of wild fowl frequent the bay. There are no less than four villages or settlements on the bay. Humboldt, at the entrance, has 13 houses ; Eureka as many ; Bucksport is just taking a start, and its location is thought to be superior to all the others, from the fact, that it has better water, and more room for commercial purposes. Union Town is the largest, having about one hundred houses. It is located in the North end of the bay. Its prox- imity to the mine is only the advantage it has over the others, while the difficulty of transporting supplies from the depot at Eureka seems to be almost an insurmountable objection to its ever becoming a place of much importance. Everything has to be carried in small boats up a very narrow sluice, and that only at high water, while the nearest point of water communication is a mile from the town. A road can be cut from either of the other towns to communicate with the one from Union to the mines, with but little expense or trouble." TRINIDAD BAY.— This bay it 42 miles to the northward of Cape Mendocino, and lies immediately under Trinidad Head, or Rocky Point of Vancouver. On the west side of this point are some rocky islets, named the Turtles. This bay is not very extensive, but it is a very convenient and safe anchorage during six months of the year, and will be found by vessels that have suffered from the strong head winds, (northerly) that prevail along this coast, a comfortable harbour of refuge. It is said, that in the vicinity of Trinidad Bay there are some valuable mines, so that, after the lapse of a few years, it is likely to become a ; 118 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR place of importance. There are about 100 houses in the village (1851), and the land in the vicinity, for agricultural purposes, is so rich that it cannot be surpassed. The gigantic red-wood abounds here in all its magnificence, always aflEbrding to the hardy settler the readiest and most lasting material for neat and appropriate buildings. The fibre of this wood is so straight, and so easily separated, that it is split, with com- paratively little trouble, into all the different forms required for an unpretending dwelling in a new country. Trinidad Bay was visited on the 2nd of May, 1793, by Vancouver, who thus writes : — " About 6 o'clock in the evening, we anchored in eight fathoms water, dark sandy bottom, in Porto de la Trinidad. Our station here was in a small open bay or cove, very much exposed, and bounded by detached rocks, lying at a little distance from the shore. When moored, the bearings from the ship were, a high, steep, rounding, rocky headland, projecting a small distance from the general line of the shore into the ocean, forming, by that means, the bay. This was the northernmost land in sight, and bore by compass N. 75° W., distant about three-quarters of a mile ; a high, round, barren rock, made white by the dung of sea fowl, between which, and the above headland, we had entered the bay, S. 50° W. at the like distance ; the high distant land of Cape Mendocino, the southernmost land in sight. South ; a rugged rocky point forming the South-east point of the bay, S. 62° E. distant one mile and a half ; and the nearest shore. North-east, about half a mile from us. The next morning, I went on shore with a guard of marines, and a working party, in search of wood and water ; these were found con- veniently situated, a little to the southward of a small Indian village. The landing was tolerably good, being within several rocks, which lie a little way from the shore, and greatly protect the beach from the violence of the surf caused by the north-west swell that breaks with great force on all parts of this coast. How far the place is deserving the denomination of a port, I shall not take upon me exactly to determine ; but in the language of mariners, it can in no respect be considered as a safe retreat for ships ; not even the station occupied by the Spaniards, which I conceived to be close up in the N.N.W. part of the bay, between the main and a detached rock lying from the headland, which forms the north-west point of the bay, N. 72° E., about half a mile distant. There, two or three vessels moored head and stem, may lie in six and seven fathoms water, sandy bottom. The point above-mentioned will then bear by compass S.W. ; and the rocks lying off the south-east point of the bay, S. 50° E. Between these points of the compass it is still exposed to the whole fury and violence of those winds which, on our return to the southward, the preceding THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 119 autumn, blew incessantly in storms ; and when we approached the shores, were always observed to take the direction of the particular part of the coast we were near. Under these circumstances, even that anchorage, though the most sheltered one the place affords, will be found to be greatly exposed to the violence of these southern blasts, which not only prevail during the most part of the winter seasons, but continued to blow very hard in the course of the preceding summer. Should a vessel part cables, or be driven from this anchorage, she must instantly be thrown on the rocks lying close under her stem, where little else than inevitable destruction is to be expected. The points of Trinidad Bay lie from each other S. 52° E., and N. 52° W., about two miles asunder. From this line of direction, the rocks that line the shore are nowhere more than half a mile distant. The round barren rocky islet lies from the north-west point of the bay, S. by W., distant three quarters of a mile ; this is steep-to, and has eight or nine fathoms water all round it, and admits of a clear channel from nine to six fathoms deep, close to the above point ; from thence to Rocky Point, the shores of the coast are bounded by innumerable rocky islets, and several sunken rocks lying a little without those that appear above water ; but I know of no danger but what is sufficiently conspicuous. The soundings of the bay are regular, from nine to five fathoms, the bottom clear and sandy ; but as our anchors were weighed with great ease, and came up quite clean, we had reason to consider it to be not very good holding-ground." This place was also visited by Commander Wilkes, who discovered a small sunken rock between two islets. Plenty of good water may be procured in the bay, but during strong westerly winds the anchorage is unprotected. At about 30 miles to the northward of Trinidad Head, is the entrance to the Klamath, or Smith's River, on the bar of which there are about 17 feet at mean low water. The land on the north side of the river is high and abrupt, but on the south side, a narrow neck of dry sand projects, with a perpendicular rock on the extreme point. The current sweeps out of the river with great velocity, causing heavy breakers on the bar, which, at most times, prevent vessels from entering. The soundings out^ side the entrance are regular, and there are three sunken rocks about a mile distant from the sandy point. The channel into the river is so narrow, and the current so strong, that it is deemed unsafe for sailing vessels to attempt to run in. In the interior, along this portion of coast, there is a range of very high mountains running in a direction parallel to the shore, the summits of which can be seen in clear weather, above the hills which form this iron- bound coast. One of these mountains, named Mount Shaste, is covered with perpetual snow, and appears as though composed of large blocks of 120 SAILINO DIRECTIONS I'UR rock ; its conical shape indicates its volcanic character, although no crater is visible. The position of this mountain is about lat. 41° 20' N., and long. 121° 45' W. The party under Captain Wilkes had a fine oppor- tunity of observing this mountain, when travelling overland in 1841. "It presented a magnificent sight, rising as it does to a lofty height, its steep sides emerging from the mists which envelope its base, and seem to throw it off to an immense distance ; its cleft summit gave proof of its former active state as a volcano. The snow lies in patches on the sides and part of the peak of this mountain; but there is a great difference in the position of its snow-line from that of Mount Wood, or St. Helen's. Its height is said to be 14,390 feet, but Lieutenant Emmons thinks it not so high." PORT ST. GEORGE.— In sailing along the coast to the northward of Trinidad Bay, towards Port St. George, it will be observed to be com- posed of steep rocky precipices, broken by deep gullies, which, at a distance, would lead one to suppose that there were harbours or breaks in the land. The country is mountainous, and does not present so pleasing an aspect as that to the southward of Trinidad Bay. In lat. 41° 47' N., you will reach Point St. George, which is composed of a cluster of remarkable rocky hummocks, having low land behind them, which gives them the appearance of an island, when seen from a distance. Off the point there are a number of rocky islets and breakers. Point St. George forms a bay on each side ; the northern of which is named Pelican Bay, and the southern, St. George's Bay. Pelican Bay is very spacious and secure during north-westerly gales; but there are several rocks close to the shore which must be avoided. Near these rocks a stream discharges itself, from whence water can be procured by boats. In St. George's Bay there is good anchorage during north-west gales, under shelter of the rocky islets ; but no fresh water can be pro- cured here. Vancouver visited Port St. George in April, 1792, and thus writes : — " Off Point St. George, there extends a very dangerous cluster of rocks, named the Dragon Rocks, The outermost of these lies from Point St. George, N. 52° W., three leagues distant. The rocks above water are four in number, with many smaller ones, and numerous breakers stretching from the outermost. Point St. George forms a bay on each side ; that into which we stood from the north side is perfectly open to the N.W., yet apparently sheltered from the W.S.W., and southwardly winds by the Dragon Rocks ; the soundings we found regularly from 35 to 45 fathoms, black sand and muddy bottom ; when at the former depth, Point St. George bore by compass S. 33° E., lOmiles; the northernmost of the Dragon Rocks S. 7° W. four miles ; and the north point of the bay, which I named St. George's Bay, N. 24° W., six or seven miles distant. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMSRICA. 121 The surf broke with great violence all round the bay ; and although we were again in whitish water, there was not any opening on this side of the point : the shores of the northernmost part of the bay, like the coast of the bay on the south side of Point St. George, rise very abruptly from the sea, forming numberless gullies and chasms, which were covered with a dull brownish herbage, and produced little or no wood. North of the bay, the shores were again bounded with numberless small rocks and rocky islets, similar to those already mentioned ; but the low land of Point St. George terminates in a sandy beach, from whence the coast takes a direction N. 15° W." From Point St. George, the coast to the northward is composed of high steep precipices and deep chasms, falling very abruptly into the sea. The inland mountains are very lofty, and appear to be tolerably well covered with trees, apparently pines, although there are some spreading trees of considerable magnitude. Some of the mountains are barren. Along the coast are a number of rocky islets. In lat. 42° N. is the boundary between Oregon and California. I I 122 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR .1' THE COAST OF OREGON. I By a convention with Spain in 1817, the southern boundary of Oregon was fixed at the latitude of 42° N., and until 1847, the whole territory so far south as the Spanish frontier, was claimed by both Great Britain and the United States, and the subjects of both proceeded to colonize it; but in that year negociations were concluded between the two powers, by which the mutual boundary was fixed at the 49° of latitude. The whole territory extends from 42° to 54° 40' N. latitude, and contains about 480,000 square miles, of which, about 7-i2ths belong to the United States. Nearly the whole region is drained by the river Columbia, with its tributaries, which takes its name from the ship of Captain Gray, of Boston, who was the first to ascend the stream, in 1792. The name Oregon, as applied to both the river and the country, has arisen solely from the statement of the traveller Carver, that, when on the Upper Mississippi, he heard of a great river in the interior, flowing westward, and which he called the Oregon or Oregan, or River of the West. The principal establishments of the whites are the Hudson's Bay Company's posts and settlements, and the Missionary Stations of the American Board of Foreign Missions ; the country generally being still in posses- sion of the native tribes. Population not known. Fort Vancouver, the Company's principal depot for Columbia district, stands on the northern bank of the river, 100 miles from its mouth, in the midst of beautiful and lerLile prairies. The fort is merely a stockade inclosing the Company's buildings, and outside are about 50 huts, occupied by the mechanics and labourers, with their Indian wives and slaves. There are several other forts of the same kind scattered over the country. A Company's ship arrives every year in the Columbia, in spring, with goods for the Indian trade, and returns in the autumn, after having made a trip to the Sandwich Islands with furs. A Company's ship, brig, schooner, sloop, and steam-boat, remain on the coast to traffic and bring in the furs ; and every spring, numerous parties leave Fort Vancouver in boats loaded with goods for the Indian trade, at the different inland posts. The whole number of persons connected with the establishment is THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 123 about 800, who are mostly Canadians, half-breeds, and Indians. The Mission Board has two stations, and employs several missionaries and teachers. RIVER TOUTONNIS, or Rogue's River.— This is the first river met with after passing the boundary line of Oregon and California, when sailing northward. It has a very narrow entrance, with a low shingle beach on each side, by which it may be recognised ; but in con- sequence of the narrowness of the channel, it is scarcely available for shipping, there being hardly room to turn. The passage of this river is between high mountainous land ; and in consequence of the deep inclina- tion of its bed, the stream is very rapid. There are from 10 to 12 feet water on the bar, which dvpens to four or five fathoms within the dis- tance of a quarter of a mile inside ; the flats then begin. The overfalls extend several miles. The tide rises about six feet. It is said that wood and water can be procured in any quantity. This river is named by Wilkes, the Klamet or Tootootutna River. At about 18 miles north of the Klamath River, is a small open cove, named Ewing Harbour, in which safe anchorage may be obtained during the summer months. It is said that there is no surf in the landing cove. CAPE ORFORD, OR BLANCO is at the extremity of a low pro- jecting tract of land, and forms a very conspicuous point, which bears the same appearance, whether approached from the north or the south. It is covered with wood as low down as the surf will permit it to grow. The space between the woods and the wash of the sea appears to be composed of black craggy rocks, which can be seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. Off the cape, there is a group of rocky islets, four in number, surrounded with dangerous sunken rocks, on which the sea breaks with considerable force. The outermost of these bears from the cape S. 38° W., distant four miles, and has outside it, at a short distance, 45 fathoms, black sandy bottom. From Cape Orford, the coast runs to the northward, and until about a league from the cape is lined with rocky islets, which are succeeded by an almost straight sandy beach, with land behind rising gradually to a moderate height ; but the interior is considerably elevated, and much diversified both by its eminences and productions, being generally well wooded, though frequently there are clear spots, which give the country an appearance of being well cultivated. CAPE GREGORY, OR ARAGO, about 30 miles to the northward of Cape Orford, is very conspicuous, especially when viewed from the northward, being formed by a round hill on high perpendicular cliflfs, some of which are white, and rise to a considerable height above the level of the sea : above these cliffs the land is pretty well wooded. About a 124 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR league northward of the pitch of the cape, the rocky cliffs composing it terminate, and a compact white sandy bearh commences, wliich extends along the coast eight leagues, without forming any visible projecting point or headland. Vancouver, after observing the impropriety of the term " bianco " being applied to Cape Orford, und, are uns with at times are com- leir base, ■ueans for of when ast, com- vering an area of 1 5 square miles, the only entrance to which is through the Nar- rows, which, if strongly fortified, would bid defiance to any attack, and guard its entrance against any force. The inlets, in the order in which they come from the entrance, have received the names of Carr's, Case's, Hammersley's, Totten's, Eld's, Budd's, and Henderson's ; they are united by passages which form seve- ral islands and peninsulas. All these inlets are safe, commodious, and capacious harbours, well supplied with water, and the land around them is fertile. On many of the islands and peninsulas are to be found slate and sandstone, which, though soft and friable in some places where it has been exposed on the surface, will be found suitable for building purposes. Nothing can exceed the beauty of these waters, and their safety. Not a shoal exists within the Strait of Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sound, or Hood's Canal, that can in any way interrupt their navigation by a seventy-four gun ship. The shores of all the inlets and bays are remarkably bold, so much more so, that in many places a ship's side would strike the shore before the keel would touch the ground. Some few of them have creeks run- ning into them with water sufficient to turn mills. These creeks all have extensive mud-flats at their mouths, with fertile prairies at their heads and along their banks. The spring tides rise 18 feet, those of the neap 12 feet, affording every facility for the construction of dry-docks, &c. The country on all these salt-water inlets is thought to be remarkably healthy ; the winter is represented to be mild, and but of short duration, and the channels and harbours are never obstructed by ice. ADMIRALTY INLET.— At the entrance of Admiralty Inlet, on the western side, is Port Townsend, a fine sheet of water, three and a quar- ter miles in length, by one and three-quarters in width. Near the head of the bay, on the western side, is an extensive table-land, free from wood, which would afford a good site for a town. The eastern side of the bay is formed by two islands, so that when within you lie nearly land-locked. This bay is free from dangers, there being all over it a depth of 10 to 15 fathoms, and it is well protected from the quarters whence stormy winds blow. It has anchorage of a convenient depth, and abundance of fresh water may be obtained. At the extreme west end of the bay there is a lodge of Indians (1841), and here the soil is a light sandy loam, apparently very productive, as it was covered with wild flowers, and strawberry plants in blossom. From this part of the bay Mount Baker is distinctly seen to the north-eastward, and forms a fine sight when its conical peak is illuminated by the setting sun. Vancouver visited Port Townsend in 1792, and remarks: — " It proved to be a very safe and more capacious harbour than Port Discovery, and ren- M 2 161- SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR li ; k: [ i f :l dered more pleasant by the high land being at a greater distance from the water side. Its soundings also give it a further advantage, being very re 'ular from side to side, from 10 to 20 fathoms depth of water, good holding-ground ; but with respect to fresh water, so far as we could deter- mine by our transitory visits, it was very deficient." The north-east point of Port Townsend is a high steep cliff formed of indurated clay, much resembling fuller's earth, and hence, named by Vancouver, Marrow-stone Point ; it is the northern point of the outer- most island on the east side of the buy. East of this cliff, the shore is extended, about a quarter of a mile, by one of the sandy projecting points so peculiar to Fuca Strait. The country on the eastern shore of the bay, as far as the eastern snowy range, presents a very luxuriant appearance ; at its northern extremity is Mount Baker, and Mount Rainier also is clearly visible, bearing about N. 4^° E. At the southern extremity of the islands forming the eastern side of Port Townsend, is a small bay named Oak Cove, or Port Lawrence, in which there is a depth of 8 to 15 fathoms. It is situated just at the junc- tion of Admiralty inlet and Hood's Canal, and is separated from the head of Port Townsend only by a narrow strip of land. This is considered to be a very convenient anchorage. Departing from Oak Cove, and following the western side of Admiralty Inlet, after sailing about five miles, you will reach Foulweather Bluff, a high perpendicular point, forming the western side of Hood's Canal, and separating it from the Inlet. This in some positions has the appearance of an island. Soon after passing Foulweather Bluff you will reach a small cove, named Pilots' Cove ; and soon after, another, named Apple-tree Cove, from the numbers of that tree which were in blossom around its shores at the time of the survey. This latter cove is about 10 miles from Foulweather Bluff, and, although but of small extent, it answers for a temporary anchorage ; in it there are soundings of 3 to 1 ^ fathoms. About two miles south of Apple-tree Cove is Port Madison, a fine harbour, having a depth of 15 to SO fathoms. It is about two miles in extent, and affords every possible convenience for shipping. Between this harbour and Port Orchard is a large island, named Bainbridge Island, which is separated from the shore by a narrow but deep channel, wide and deep enough to allow ships to pass to Port Orchard. It has been remarked by Commander Wilkes that " the scenery of this portion of Admiralty Inlet resembles strongly parts of the Hudson River, particularly those about Poughkeepsie and above that place. The dis- tant highlands, though much more lofty, reminded us of the Kaatskills. There were but few lodges of Indians seen on our way up ; and the whole line of shore had the appearance of never having been disturbed by man. from the eing very ;er, good lid deter- f formed lamed by lie outer- e shore is ng points f the bay, pearance ; er also is rn side of i^rence, in ; the junc- i the head sidered to A.dmiralty r Bluff, a lanal, and ppearance lall cove, e, from >res at the ulweather emporary on, a fine miles in Between ge Island, nel, wide jry of this on River, The dis- Caatskills. the whole by man. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 1G5 Port Orchard. — At about seven miles to the southward of Port Madison is Restoration Point, the south-eastern point of Bainbridge Island, and the northern point of the entrance to Port Orchard. Here Vancouver found that the tides were materially affected by the direction and force of the wind, not only in respect to their rise and fa'l, but as to the time of high water. The former seldom exceeded seven or eight feel, and the latter generally took place fibout 4h. 10m. after the moon had passed the meridian. Port Orchard is one of the most extensive and beautiful of the many fine harbours in these inland waters, and is perfectly protected from the winds. It consists of two inner and an outer harbour. The former, although the entrance is by a strait not more than 200 yards wide, is from a half to one and a half mile in width, and extends for a distance of six miles. The water is deep enough for the largest class of vessels, with a bold shore, and good anchorage. The only danger in Port Orchard is a reef of rocks nearly in the middle of the entrance from Admiralty Inlet. This port is very extensive, and surrounded by a large growth of trees, with here and there a small prairie covered by a verdant greensward, and with its honeysuckles and roses, when in bloom, resembling a well kept lawn. The soil is superior to that of most places around the sound, and is capable of yielding almost any kind of production. The woods are alive with squirrels, while tracks along the shore, and through the forest, show that the larger class of ani- mals also are in the habit of frequenting them. Commander Wilkes says : — " Port Orchard was found to communicate, on the north, with Port Madison, which we had surveyed on our way up the sound. Lieutenant Maury, with the boats, sun eyed this passage, and found that it had a depth of four and a half fathoms at low tide. Near this passage is a place where the Roman Catholic Missionaries have esta- blished a station for teaching the surrounding tribes. A large cross is erecttd, and a building 172 feet long by 72 wide, which was found to contain many rude images. Many of the natives are capable of saying their prayers and telling their beads, and some were met with who could sing some Catholic hymns in their own language." Vancouver writes on May 24th, 1 792 : — " We found the entrance of the opening situated in the western corner of the cove, formed by two in- terlocking points about a quarter of a mile from each other ; these formed a channel about half a mile long, free from rocks or shoals, in which there was not less than five fathoms water. From the west end of this narrow channel the inlet is divided into two branches, one extending to the S.W. about five or six miles, the other to the north about the same distance, con- stituting a most complete and excellent port, to all appearance perfectly free from danger, with regular soundings, from four fathoms near the shores ICG SAILING DIIIECTIONS FOR to nine and 10 fathoms in the middle, good holding-ground. It occupied us the whole day to row round it, in doing which we met a few straggling Indians, whose condition seemed excessively wretched and miserable. The country which surrounds this harbour varies in its elevation ; in some places the shores are low level land, in others of a moderate height, falling in steep low cliffs on the sandy beach which in most places binds the shores. It produces some small rivulets of water, is thickly wooded with trees, mostly of the pine tribe, and with some variety of shrubs. This harbour, after the gentleman who discovered it, obtained the name of Port Orchard. The best passage into it is found by steering from the village point for the south point of the cove, which is easily distinguished, lying from the former S. 62° W., at the distance of about two and a half miles, then hauling to the N.W. into the cove, keeping on the port or S.W. shore, and passing between it and the rocks in the cove ; in this channel the depth of water is from 9 to 15 fathoms, gradually decreasing to five fathoms in the entrance into the port. There is also another passage round to the north of these rocks, in which there are seven fathoms water ; this is narrow, and by no means so commodious to navigate as the southern channel." Immediately opposite the southern entrance of Port Orchard there is a small island ; and beyond this are two islands, named Vashon Islands, which occupy a space of about ten miles, and have soundings of two to nine fatlioms between them. On either side of these islands is deep water of 40 to 60 fathoms ; but the best passage is considered to be the western one. At the bottom of Admiralty Inlet, in the East Channel, there is a small bay, named Commencement Bay, which affords good temporary anchorage, and a supply of wood and water. A rivulet empties into it, named by the Indians, Puyallup, at the entrance to which tliere is a delta, but none of the branches into which it is divided are large enough for a boat. The Indians in the vicinity are described as being very filthy. PUGET SOUND.— At two miles from the south end of Vashon Island is the entrance to the Narrows, a narrow chamul four and a half miles long, connecting Admiralty Inlet with Puget Sound. The banks on either side are very lofty, and have deep water close-to. Puget Sound is very extensive, and contains many islets and inlets. Its shores are very fertile, and, enjoying a fine climate, it is likely in future years to be of considerable importance. Throughout its e?.tent there is deep water, and but few if any dangers besides what show. Puget Sound was visited in 1841 by Commander Wilkes, who thus describes the narrows, when entering the sound : — " We had great difii- culty in getting beyond the reach of the eddy winds occasioned by the high banks. The scenery about this pass becomes very line ; on all sides THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 167 2upied us traggling liserable. in some t, falling )inds the ded with IS. This e of Port le village 3d, lying alf miles, or S.W. i channel ig to five • passage IS water ; southern ;here is a . Islands, )f two to is deep be the lere is a tmporary 3 into it, i a delta, igh for a thy. )n Island If miles >anks on ets. Its n future there is ho thus at difli- 1 by the all sides are high projecting bluffs of sandstone, rising almost perpendicularly from the water, with a great variety of shrubs along their base. The tide which runs through the Narrows with great velocity, causes many eddies and whirlpools, through which a ship is carried with extraordinary rapi- dity, while the danger seems to be inuiiinent. The Porpoise succeeded in entering the Narrows first, and in a few minutes was lost sight of; the Vincennes entered, and seemed at first to be hurrying to destruction, with her sails quite aback. We were carried onward wholly by the force of the tide, and had backed and filled only once before we found ourselves in as spacious a sound as the one we had just left. This narrow pass seem.s as if intended by its natural facilities to afford every means for its perfect defence." NisQUALLY. — This is the station of the Puget Sound Company, a com- pany formed for the purpose of turning to advantage the agricultural capabilities of the southern part of Puget Sound. Althougli not osten- sibly connected with the Hudson's Bay Company, yet it is in reality a branch of it, the shares being held by its officers, and the servants of the latter Company being employed in its service. The capital is about £500,000, divided into shares of £100 each ; the operations of this Company are consequently extensive. They began by making large importations of stock from California, and some of the best breeds of cattle from England, and have now the supplying of all the forts and sta- tions of the Hudson's Bay Company on the west side of the American continent; the Russian ports are also supplied by it with grain, butter, and cheese, in considerable quantities. The country in the vicinity of Nisqually presents an inviting aspect, and, with the exception of some bluffs, is undulating, and covered witli trees of the pine, white-oak, and arbutus kind. The soil of this forest- land is a thin brown stratum of sandy vegetable earth, with a sub-soil of clay and gravel ; the latter having the appearance of being water-worn. These arc succeeded by the tract of prairie-lands in the immediate vici- nity of tli(! station, which are valuable as pasture-lands for flocks of she'r; and dairy-cows. These prairies have a very extensive range in a south- east direction, and are connected with the valley of the Cowlitz, on the south, towards the Cascade Mountains ; over them in various parts are strips of forests. Within this district are numerous ponds or lakes, surrounded by ricli meadow-land, which latter furnishes luxuriant crops of nourishing herbage. No part of Oregon is better adapted for dairy purposes than this ; and wheat, rye, barley, oats, &c., come to per- fection. Nisqually is about nine miles from the Narrows. The anchorage off' it is very contracted, in consequence of the rapid shelving of tlie bank, which soon drops olf into deep water, so that only a few vessels can be acconi- 168 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR modated. The shore rises abruptly to a height of about 200 feet, and on the top of the ascent is an extended plain, covered with pine, oak, and ash trees, scattered here and there, so as to give the plain a park-like appearance. The hill side is mounted by a well-construct<^d road of easy ascent. From the summit of the road the view is beautiful over the sound and its many islands, with Mount Olympus covered with snow for back-ground. Fort Nisqually, with its outbuildings and enclosure, stands back about half a mile from the edge of the table-land. It is con- structed of pickets, enclosing a space of about 200 feet square, with a bastion at each corner. Within this enclosure are the agent's stores, and about half a dozen houses, built of logs and roofed with bark. Its locality is considered to be badly chosen, on account of the difficulty of obtaining water, which has to be brought a distance of nearly a mile. In the garden at Nisqually, on the 12th of May, 18il, peas were a foot high ; strawberries and gooseberries in full bloom, and some of the former nearly ripe, with salad that had gone to seed, three feet high and very thrifty. The hill at Nisqually is an insuperable objection to the place ever be- coming a deposit for merchandize, as it would very much increase the jj labour and expense of transportation. Water, however, can be obtained I for vessels with great ease, from a small stream that flows in abreast of the anchorage. The harbour is also exposed to the south-west winds. Better sites than Nisqually, for the location of a town, are to be found in this neighbourhood. There is one, in particular, just within Kitron Island, about two and a half miles north of Nisqually anchorage, where the shore has a considerable indentation, and, although the water is deep, vessels would be partially protected from the S.W., S.E., and N.W. winds, which blow with great violence, and also from any sea. Water can be obtained with as much facility, and the hill is not so precipitous. Commander Wilkes says : — " The spring tides were found to be 18 feet, those of the neaps 12 feet. High water, on the days of full and change, at Oh. 10m. P.M. During the whole of our stay there was found to be a I, great discrepancy between the day and night tides, the latter not rising t'l as high as the former by two feet. ! The country in the vicinity is thought to be remarkably healthy, and '' on all these salt-water inlets, the winter is represented to be mild, and but of short duration. The mean temperature, six feet under ground, during our stay at the observatory, from the 2()th of May till the 14th of July, was found to be r)8'5°. I was not fully satisfied that this record gave correct results for the mean temperature of the climate, although frosts do not penetrate the ground ; for, by the same manner of trying it, and under almost the same circumstances, at Astoria, we obtained only 51", although the place is a degree to the south of Nisqually. At Nis- I rising THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 169 qually the greatest range of temperature was found to be 55°, the lowest, o7°; and the mean, during the same period, G3'87°: the barometer stand- ing at 29-970 in. Tlie Indians round Nisqually are few in number, and the whole tribe does not amount to 200, including men, women, and children. They be- long to the tribes who flatten their heads, and are represented as vicious, and exceedingly lazy, sleeping all day, and sitting up all night to gamble. So strong is the latter propensity among all these tribes, that it is said, that after parting with all their moveable property, they will go so far as to stake their wives and children, and lastly even themselves for years of slavery. Case Inlet. — In the western part of Puget Sound are a number of inlets, the principal and largest of which is Case Inlet. It has a north- westerly direction, and runs to within two miles of Hood's Canal, a com- munication with which might easily be made. Between the nearest points of junction is a large pond, named Kellini or Kellmsu Lake. In Case Inlet are several large islands. Mount Rainier, &c. — From Puget Sound the high lands in the interior are distinctly visible ; of these, the elevation of Mount Rainier has been determined to be 12,330 feet. The white summits of Mounts St. Helen's and Hood are very conspicuous, and resemble each other closely, appear- ing from some points of view as perfect cones. Mount Rainier is at all times a very striking object from the prairies about Nisqually, rising, as it does, almost imperceptibly from the plain, with a gradual slope, until the snow-line is reached, when the ascent becomes more precipitous. Since 1815 the craters on the tops of Mounts Rainier and St. Helen's have been in a state of activity. It is said that these mountains have never yet been ascended. HOOD'S CANAL. — The entrance to Hood's Canal is on the western side of Foulweather Bluff, the point of land separating it from Admiralty Inlet, and lies in latitute about 47° 50' N. The canal extends for a dis- tance of nearly 40 miles, in a S.S. W. direction, and then turns to the N.E. for 10 miles, approaching Case Inlet in Puget Sound, as before stated. The average width of the canal is two miles, and in it arc the good harbours of Ports Ludlow, Gamble, Suquamish, Scabock, and Daboq, of all which surveys have been made. The banks of Hood's Canal, as far as Tskutska or Hazel Point, do not exceed 100 feet in height, and are formed of stratified clay, with a light gravelly soil above it, thickly covered with a species of" pine. This is the character of the eastern shore lor its whole extent; but the west and north shores above this point become more bold and rocky, with a deeper and richer soil, formed by the alluvial deposits from the Mount Olympus range. 170 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR i Throughout the whole extent of Hood's Canal there is deep water of 40 to 50 and GO fathoms, gradually decreasing in depth towards its extre- mity. It is in general too deep for anchoring ; yet there are a few good harbours. The fust harbour is on the western side, opposite Foulweather Blufl', and is named Port Ludlow ; it is about one and a half mile in extent, and may aiford occasional shelter. At three and a half miles farther up the inlet, on the same side, is what Vancouver at first supposed to be a high round island, but he afterwards found it attached to the main by a low neck which was partly sandy, but principally occupied by a salt-water swamp. Port Gamble lies on the opposite side of the canal, and has a narrow entrance between the kelp, which runs in two and a quarter miles, in a southerly direction. The canal hereabout runs S.W. 2 S., 14 miles, and is generally about one and a half mile wide ; and in a south-westerly direction from the above island is situated Suquamish Harbour, off which lies a dry sand-bank. So scarce is the water in this part of the country, that no streams can be found, with the exception of a few falling into the small harbour formed by the before-mentioned island or peninsula. Commander Wilkes found that Hood's Canal did not termi- nate where Vancouver ended his survey, but ran for about 10 miles in a north and easterly direction, and approached within two and a half miles of Puget Sound, the land in the intermediate space being hilly and rough. Black Creek is a large inlet lying at the south extreme of Hood's Canal, which the Indians use in communicating with the Chickeeles and Colum- bia Rivers. Before reaching the southern end of the Canal, the rocky shore of the west side, near Mount Olympus, gradually slopes into low land, with a thickly-wooded and good soil. At the extreme end of the canal there is also a wide creek, which has an extensive mud-flat at its mouth. This is the case with all the rivers that empty into these waters. In the small harbours in Hood's Canal there is plenty of water, and in some of the streams there is sufficient power to turn mills. Along the banks of the canal there is not a very great extent of country adapted for cultivation. The climate is very similar to that at Nis- qually. The shores in the southern part of the first reach of Hood's Canal exhibit by no means the same luxuriant appearance that prev /l-^ to the northward, being nearly destitute of open verdant spots, ana alternately composed of sandy or rocky cliffs, falling abruptly into the sea, or termi- nating on a beach ; whilst in some places the even land extends from the water side, and with little or no elevation. The low projecting points cause the coast to be somewhat indented with small bays, where, near the shore, are soiuulings of 5 to Itl fathoms. Vancouver observes tliat although the canal is only two miles wide, yet he could obtain no bottom watf?r of ts extre- :ew good Iweather mile in ilf miles supposed the main ied by a e canal, two and )ut runs ide ; and quaniish r in this tion of a h1 island 3t termi- liles in a ilf miles d rough. s Canal, Colum- le rocky nto low d of the at at its b these ter, and Along- country at N?s- Canal ' to the n-iiately r termi- roni the ^ points e, near OS ihat bottom THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 171 with a line 110 fathoms long. In Commander Wilkes's chart, the depth appears nowhere to exceed 62 fathoms, so that Vancouver's inability to reach the ground may perhaps be ascribed to the effects of a strong current. In lat. 47° 41' N. is Hazel Point, so named from the number of ha/el- trees growing on it, which divides the canal into two branches, one taking a direction nearly true North, and the other running to the S.W. That running to the northward has an extent of about nine miles, and contains Dahap and Colseed Inlets ; while the southern inlet is the main body of the canal. Just opposite Hazel Point is Haluimish Harbour, which is formed on the west side by Seabeck Island ; and due North from Seabeck Island, on the west side of the canal, is Sylopish Rock, situated close to the shore. Vancouver observes in sailing up Hood's Canal : — " To the westward and north-westward lay a range of snowy mountains, which gradually descended in a southern direction, whilst the sunnnit of the eastern range now and then appearing seemed to give bounds to this low country on that side. Between the S.E. and S.W. a country of a very moderate height seemed to extend as far as the eye could reach ; and, from its eminences and vallies, there was reason to believe that this inlet continued to meander a very considerable distance, which made me much regret that we were not provided for a longer excursion. Yet, having proceeded thus far, I resolved to continue our researches, though at the expense of a little hunger, until the inlet should either terminate, or so extensively open, as to render it expedient that the vessels should be brought up ; which would be a very tedious and disagreeable opera- tion, in consequence of the narrowness of the channel, and the great depth of the water. Soundings in some places only could be gained close to the shore ; and in the middle no bottom had anywhere been found with 100 fathoms of line, although the shores were in general low, and not half a league asunder." WHIDBEY ISLAND.— This is a long crooked shaped island, lying at the entrance of Admiralty Inlet, and forming for a considerable extent its eastern shore. It is about 'S3 miles long, and so irregular is- its outline, that in some places it is not more than a mile broad. The soil of the island is represented to be good, and the timber to be excel- lent, and it is said that there are also several open plains ready for the plough. On the island there are many small villages, and the inhabi- tants, which are of the Sachet tribe, are more numerous thanin other parts of Fuca Strait or Puget Sound. The channel between Whidbey Island and the main is named Pos- session Sound. In it there are several places of excellent anchorage, of which the principal are Ports Gardner and Susan, and Penn Cove. The 172 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR water throughout is in general deep, a though not so much so as Admiralty Inlet. The western point of Whidbey Island, Partridge Point, is in lat. 48° 13' N. and long. 122° 45' W. It forms the eastern point of entrance to Admiralty Inlet, and is a high white sandy cliff, having a verdant lawn on either side of it. Vancouver says : — " When passing at the distance of about a mile from this point, we very suddenly came on a small space of 10 fathoms water, but immediately increased our depth to 20 and 30 fathoms. After advancing a few miles along the eastern shore of the gulf, we found no effect either from the ebb or flood tide, and the wind being light and variable from the northward, at three o'clock in the afternoon we were obliged to anchor in 20 fathoms water, sandy bottom." On the. west side of Whidbey Island, immediately opposite Port Townsend in Admiralty Inlet, is an open bay, named Admiralty Bay, in which are soundings of 20 to 8 fathoms. It is about two miles in extent, and will occasionally afford shelter from northerly winds. BoNiLLA Island. — This is a small low sandy island, lying nearly seven miles to the north-westward of Partridge Point. At its western end is a low cliff, above which are some dwarf trees. Some rocks lie on its western side, at nearly three-quarters of a. mile from the shore ; and the eastern side of the island is formed by a very narrow low spit of land, nearly level with the water. From this island the remarkable high snow-capped mountains, Mount Baker and Mount Rainier bear, the former N. 63° E., and the latter S. 27° E. To the southward of these are visible two other very lofty round snowy mountains, lying apparently in the same north and south direction, or nearly so. They appear to be covered with perpetual snow as low down as can be seen, and seem as if they rose from an extensive plain of low country. FiDALGO Island. — This is an island about six miles in extent separated from the northern end of Whidbey Island by a narrow and dangerous passage, named Deception Passage. In nearly the centre of the island is a lofty hill, named Mount Erie ; and on the western side of the island are two smaller islands and rocks, named Burrows and Allan Islands. Fidalgo Island is nearly connected to the main by low marshy land. Deception Passage communicates with Possession Sound and is a narrcw intricate channel, wliich, for a considerable distance, is not 40 yards in width, and abounds with rocks above and beneath the surface of the water. These impediments, in addition to the great rapidity and irregularity of the tide, render the passage navigable only for boats or vessels of very small burden. The country about Fidalgo Island presents a very different aspect to that further southward. The shores are composed of steep rugged rocks, THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 173 whose surface varies considerably in respect to height, and exhibits little more than the barren rock, which in some places produces a little herbage of a dull colour, with a few dwarf trees. POSSESSION SOUND.— This is the extensive sound between Whidbey Island and the main, and its principal and indeed only navigable entrance for ships is from Admiralty Inlet, between the south end of the island and the main shore, in lat 47° 54^ N. On the eastern shore, near the entrance, is the outlet of the Sinahormis River; off which is a small high island, lying in the middle of the sound, which has 12 to 20 fathoms close-to all round it. The shores of the sound are in general regular, and of but moderate elevation, and Vancouver observes : — " We found the shores of the inlet to be straight, compact, and about two miles apart. In several places we attempted to land near the upper end, but found ourselves as often repulsed by a flat sandy shoal, which extended directly across. The land there seemed of a swampy nature, was thinly wooded, and through it was the appearance of a shallow rivulet falling into the sea ; farther back it was more elevated, and the surrounding country being covered with timber, made us conclude that it was fertile." At about nine miles within the entrance of Possession Sound is Allan Point, the southern extremity of Camano Island. This island is nearly 14 miles long, and its upper part is joir.ed to the shore by a tract of swampy land, through which a small stream flows ; behind this the country is more elevated, and covered with timber. On the east side of Camano Island is Port Susan, which extends 11 miles to the north- westward, and has deep water soundings all over it, excepting at its head, where is the swampy land just noticed, which is fronted by a quantity of kelp. On the eastern side of the entrance of this port is a small bay, into which flow two excellent streams, but so nearly on a level with the sea, that Vancouver could procure water only at low tide, or at some distance up the brook, which latter was easily effected, as the boats could go up as far as where the fresh water fell from the elevated land. Port Gardner is on the west side of Camano Island, and is merely a reach of Possession Sound ; in it there is deep water of 30 fathoms, and good shelter from all winds. In the western part of the port there is a deep bay, extending into Whidbey Island about five miles, the shores of which appear to be clean, excepting some rocks off the eastern shore, at the entrance. From Port Gardner the trend of the sound is towards the N.W., about eight miles, to Peiui Cove. Penn Cove is an inlet on the east side of Whidbey Island. It is a very excellent and commodious harbour, and has regular soundings of 17i SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR m :h>^ 10 to 20 fathoms, good holding-ground. The extent of the cove is about five miles, and when within there is shelter from all winds. The head of the cove is not more than a mile from Partridge Point, the western extremity of the island, so that the island is here nearly divided. On each point of the harbour Vancouver found, in 1792, a deserted village. From Penn Cove, Possession Sound runs to the northward about eight miles, and has a very contracted channel, although deep enough for vessels. From the eastern shore an extensive flat runs out, nearly over to Whidbcy Island, and narrows the channel to the width of about three-quarters of a mile ; on this flat there are several islets and rocks. In the northern part of the Sound is the entrance to Deception Passage ; and between Fidalgo Island and the main is a narrow tortuous channel over the marshes, leading into Bellingham Bay, which is fit only for boats. Vancouver says of Penn Cove, in 1792: — "The surrounding country, for several miles, in most points of view, presented a delightful pros- pect, consisting chiefly of various meadows, elegantly adorned with clumps of trees; amongst which the oak bore a very considerable pro- portion, in size from four to six feet in circumference. In these beautiful pastures, bordering on an expansive sheet of water, the deer were seen playing about in great numbers. Nature had here provided the well-stocked park, and wanted only the assistance of art to constitute that assemblage of surface which is so much sought in other countries, and only to be acquired by an immoderate expense in manual labour. The soil principally consisted of a rich black vegetable mould, lying on a sandy or clayey substratum ; the grass, of an excellent quality, grew to the height of three feet, and the ferns, which, in the sandy soils, occupied the clear spots, were nearly twice as high. The country in tlie vicinity of this branch of the sea is, according to Mr. Whidbey's representation, the finest we had yet met with, notwithstanding the very pleasing appearance of many others ; its natural productions were luxuriant in the highest degree, and it was, by no means ill supplied with streams of fresh water. The number of its inhabitants he esti- mated at about six hundred, which I suppose would exceed the total of all the natives we had before seen ; the other parts of the sound did not appear by any means so populous, as we had been visited by one small canoe only, ir vhich were five of the natives, who civilly furnished us with some smui 'ish. The character and appearance of their several tribes here seen did not seem to dift'er in any material respect from each other, or from those with which we had already met. In a bay just to the westward of the north point of the entrance to Possession Sound, there is a shoal at a short distance from the shore. V THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. I'm. ii) It shows itself above water, and is easily discovered by the soundings gradually decreasing to 10, 7, and 5 fathoms, so that it cannot be con- sidered as any material impediment to the navigation of the bay. HARO AND ROSARIO STRAITS.— Between the east end of Vancouver's Island and the main, there is an extensive group of islands, the larger of which is named San Juan and Lopez Islands. They have not yet been closely examined, and we have but little information respecting them, but they are known to contain some well sheltered anchorages. The easternmost island, named Lopez Island, is nearly 20 miles in extent, and off its south-east point, which is low and rocky, is a dangerous sunken rock, visible only at low water ; there is also a dangerous cluster of small rocks about two miles further to the north- ward, some of which are always above the water. The strait separating Vancouver's Island from San Juan and Lopez Islands is named Haro Strait. It is about six miles wide, and has deep water in it. Near its northern extremity are a number of small islands. Rosario Strait is between Lopez Island and the shore ; it has also deep water in it, and scattered over its surface are a number of islands. These straits form the communication between Fuca Strait and the Gulf of Georgia, which is an extensive sound separating Vancouver's Island from the main. At about eight miles within the south entrance of Rosario Strait is Cypress Island, an island four miles in extent, so named by Vancouver on account of the number of cypress-trees growing on it. On the west side of the island is Strawberry Bay, a bay of small extent, and not very deep ; but in which there is good anchorage on a sandy bottom. When at anchor in 16 fathoms, fine sand, the south point of the bay bears S. 40° E. ; a small islet forming nearly the north point of the bay, and round which there is a good clear passage, West ; and the bottom of the bay, East, distant three-quarters of a mile. This situation, though very commodious in respect to the shore, is greatly exposed to the wind and sea in a S.S.E. direction. Strawberry Bay was so named by Mr. Broughton, from the quantity of strawberries growing there. The anchorage is good and secure, al- though somewhat exposed ; yet, in fair weather, wood and water may easily be procured. Cypress Island is principally composed of high rocky mountains, and steep perpendicular cliffs, which, in the centre of Straw- berry Bay, fall a little back, and the space between the foot of the moun- tains and the sea-side is occupied by low marshy land, through which are several small runs of most excellent water, that find their way into the bciy by oozing through the beach. The rise and fall of the tide are incon- siderable, though the stream when Vancouver visited the bay was rapid, \ i^A 176 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR jili; i I the ebb coming from the eastward. It is high water at 2h. 37in. after the moon passes the meridian. On the east side of Cypress Island are some islands, the principal of which are Sinclair and Guemes Islands ; these face Bellingham and Pa- dilla Bays on the main land. Bellingham and Padilla Bays. — These bays are situated within Cypress and Guemes Islands, and are separated from each other by a nar- row straggling point, named William Point. There is a communication between Possession Sound and Padilla Bay, but it is too shallow and tor- tuous for anything but boats. Throughout Bellingham Bay there is good and secure anchorage, in a depth of eight to four fathoms. Opposite to its north point of entrance the shores are high and rocky, with some de- tached rocks lying off it ; hereabout is a stream of excellei:!; water. To the north and south of these high and rocky shores, the shores are less elevated, especially to the northward, where some verdant lawns are seen. The bay extends as far north as lat. 48° 40', but the land behind it is in- convenient to communicate with, on account of an extensive flat which runs a considerable distance off, particularly in the southern part of the bay. To the northward of Bellingham Bay is Gaston Bay, which extends as far north as 48#47' N., and is formed to the westward by a long strag- gling peninsula, named Point Francis. It is about five miles in extent, and joins Bellingham Bay. Of its capabilities and advantages we have no information. Birch Bay. — At about 10 miles to the northward of Point Francis is a small bay, named, in consequence of the abundance of black birch found growing there. Birch Bay. The south-east part of this bay is formed by nearly perpendicular rocky cliffs, from whence the higher woodland coun- try retires a considerable distance to the north-eastward, leaving an exten- sive space of low land between it and the sea, separated from the high ground by a rivulet of fresh water, which discharges itself at the bottom, or north extremity of the bay. On the low land very luxuriant grass is produced, with wild roses, gooseberries, and other bushes in abundance. Here Vancouver anchored in June 1792, and, by the mean result of eleven meridional altitudes of the sun, determined the latitude to be 48° 53^' N., and the variation of the compass, by nineteen sets of azimuths, to be 19° 30' E. The tides were found to be very inconsiderable, but were not particularly noticed. Vancouver remarks, when sailing to the northward from Strawberry Bay :— " We directed our course to the N.W., along what appeared to be a continuation of the continental shore, formed by low sandy cliffs, rising from a beach of sand and stones. The country, moderately elevated, in. after ncipal of and Pa- ll within iy a nar- mication and tor- e is good posite to iome de- ter. To s are less are seen. I it is in- iat wliich rt of the t tends as Dg strag- II extent, e have no Francis is :ch found armed by nd coun- in exten- the high bottom, t grass is undance. of eleven f 53^' N., is, to be were not rawberry red to be fs, rising elevated, THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 177 stretched a considerable distance from the N.W. round to the south-east- ward, before it ascended to join the range of rugged snowy mountains. This connected barrier, from the base of ATount Baker, still continued very lofty, and appeared to extend in a direction leading to the westward of north. The soundings along the shore were regular, from 12 to 25 and 30 fathoms as we approaclied or increased our distance from the land, which seldom exceeded two miles : the opposite side of the gulf to the south- westward, composed of numerous islands, was at the distance of about two leagues. In the evening we steered for a bay that presented itself, where, about six o'clock, we anchored in six fathoms water, sandy bottom, at half a mile from the shore." The coast to the northward of Birch Bay forms two open bays, of which tlie southernmost and smallest has two rocks, lying off its south point, and extends in a circular form to the eastward, with a shoal of sand projecting some distance from its shores ; this bay affords good anchorage in from 7 to 10 fathoms water. The other bay is much larger, and extends to the northward. The shoals attached to the shores of each, and particularly to those of the latter bay, prevent a nearer access to their heads than four or five miles. Point Roberts, the western extremit}' of the previously mentioned ba3'S, is a low narrow peninsula, the highest part of which, to the soli th -eastward, is formed by high white sand-cliffs falling perpendicularly into the sea ; from whence a shoal extends to the distance of half a mile round it, joining those of the larger bay. The south-west extremity of the peninsula, at not more than a mile in an east and west direction from the former extremity, is a low projecting sandy point, with 10 to 7 fathoms water within a few yards of it. From Point Roberts the Gulf of Georgia runs to the north-westward, and separates Vancouver Island from the main land. It is but little visited, there being no trade or traffic to occasion vessels to frequent this part, consequently it is not necessary for us to enlarge upon it farther. Suffice it to say, that as you advance northward the shores rise to what may be considered elevated land, and that the forests are composed of a less variety of trees, and tliat their growtli is less luxuriant. The trees most commonly seen are pines of different sorts, the arbor vitrc, the orien- tal arbutus, and, probably, some species of cypress. On the islands a few dwarf oaks are met with, and in the vicinity of Birch Bay, the Weymouth nine, Canadian elder, and black birch are plentiful. N IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V- m ^ z LO 1= 11.25 ■ 30 ■^" ■■■ ^ IM |2.2 •Utak. U 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation ■:i VIST MAIN STRUT WHSTIR, N.Y, MSaO (716) 872-4S03 A^ [V ^ ^^ <^ ^^^ o^ J /. <^ <^ 178 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR iin VANCOUVER ISLAND. 1 hi! !!i N Vancouver, named also Nootka or Quadra Island, is a large island close on the coast of I orth America, to the north of the Columbia River, and crossed by the 50° N. latitude. It is separated from the main land by Queen Charlotte's Sound, the Gulf of Georgia, and the Strait of Fuca. It is about 250 miles long, and 70 broad, at its widest part, and contains 30,000 square miles ; is rocky and elevated, but no part of it attains to any great height. The winter in Vancouver Island is generally very stormy, with heavy rain in the months of November and December, the south«east wind then prevailing* There is some frost and snow about the low land in the be- ginning of January, which is seldom of long duration, and never inter- rupts agricultural operations. Early in February, vegetation begins to advance, and about the commencement of March, everything assumes the beautiful hue of spring. April and May bring in alternate warm showers of rain and sunshine, and the heat becomes extremel}/ oppressive in the months of June and July. In August and the beginning of September, vegetation dries up, from the drought of summer, and is then easily ignited, which is generally done by the natives when passing along the coast in their canoes. The weather being then very foggy, still, and close, the atmosphere becomes so much darkened by the fog and smoke combined, that the sun occasionally appears to us of a deep red colour, even at noon- day. In the month of October the rainy season sets in ; the soil being then moist, and the weather not very cold, the grass grows vigorously. The pasturage for the cattle is then better than daring the two preceding months. The fur-bearing animals generally hunted on the island are beaver, both black and grizzly, raccoon, minks, land-otter, &c., and the sea-otter is hunted about Nitini;t and Scott's Islands. The elk and deer are said to be abundant in the interior of the island. The fish generally taken by the natives in the vicinity are as follows, viz. : — halibut, flounders, skate, THE WEST COAST OF NOBTII AMERICA. 1T9 ge island )ia River, nain land t of Fuca. 1 contains attains to ^ith heavy- wind then in the be- 5ver inter- begins to isumes the m showers sive in the leptember, ily ignited, le coast in close, the combined, jn at noon- soil being vigorously, preceding jBver, both jea- otter is ' said to be ken by the ers, skate. rock cod, sardine, salmon, trout, and several varieties of the herring species. From the month of September to the month of April following is a very favourable time to obtain supplies of vegetables at this place and Nisqually. A ship of war of 500 men could always depend upon receiv- ing supplies of flour, beef, and pork, at this place and Nisqually ; and, during the time specified in the preceding remark, upon receiving supplies of potatoes and other vegetables. Of the interior of Vancouver Island but little is known, no exploring party having as yet penetrated very far into the country. Along the shores there are many excellent harbours, particularly on the western coast, where the shore line is much indented. In the northern part of the island it is said that coal is very abundant, and also of good quality, so that it is probable that it may ultimately become of considerable importance. Along the northern shores salmon is represented to be very plentiful. The principal settlements on Vancouver Island are Victoria Harbour in the south, and Beaver Harbour in the north part of the island ; of these Victoria Harbour is the principal. They are both in the possession of the Hudson's Bay Company, whose charter for the colonisation of this part of the American continent bears date January 13th, 1849. The following, from recent despatches from the island, will be interest- ing : — " The climate is found to be agreeable, and, even in the northern part, considerably milder than that of England. For settlers, the facilities, both as regards the raising of produce and the erection of works and dwel- lings, appear to be greater than had been anticipated. Game is every- where abundant, and is calculated to prove an important item in econo- mising domestic expenditure, while, in addition to wild fowl on the waters, there are many valuable fisheries, besides a great frequency of oyster-beds. Deer are often met, and there are also some black bears, which, however, are considered harmless. One of the most remarkable peculiarities of the island is the great number of inlets, or arms of the sea, which, being deep and narrow, and penetrating a considerable distance inland, furnish in many instances, from the great rush of water in and out, an important and permanent motive power. The natural features of the country are described as being very beautiful, owing to its lakes, hills, woodlands, and occasional patches of prairie. The oak is abundant, frequently growing in glades, with park-like regularity. There is also a cypress which grows to a large size, and is particularly valuable for building purposes. The pines are of three sorts, and are found 160 feet in height, and from 12 to 16 feet in circumference. One description is extremely plentiful, and possesses superior qualities for ship-building purposes. Varieties of maple and other trees are likewise common, and the valuable hemp known as the urtica canahina grows wild and luxuriantly in the woods. Artifi- M 2 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR h' cial grasses, it is believed, might be cultivated with great advantage, and seeds of every description have been sent out. The soil generally is a dark vegetable mould, averaging 18 inches in depth, and unusually fertile. Contrary to what is seen in England, the best lands are mostly ♦hose where ])ine-trees grow. The flora of the island is much the same as that of Great Britain. With regard to its mineral resources, the principal rocks are stated to be all of an excellent kind for building materials, both as respects appearance and durability. It is also considered that the geolo- gical features of the districts thus far surveyed are all such as strongly to favour the anticipation that gold may be found throughout an extensive range. There is an abundance of feltspar and quartz, specimens of which have been transmitted to London for examination. Ironstone is likewise found in several places, but its value has not yet been determined. The quantity of iron is sufficient to affect the compass considerably, and cap- tains of vessels who have visited the island are of opinion that this disturb- ance is unusually great along its shores. The native Indians behave well, and a small party of settlers penetrating into the interior with a canoe met a number of them, by whom they were warmly welcomed. They described a large lake which no white man Iiad ever yet seen, but which the explorers now visited, and found to be about ^0 or 30 miles in length, and from two to three miles in breadth." The southern shore of Vancouver Island having been described in the account of Fuca Strait, it now only remains for us to add the little infor- mation we possess of the western shore. NITINAT SOUND.— The entrance to this sound lies 10 miles to the N.W. of Bonilla Point, the northern point of Fuca Strait. It is an inlet of about 12 miles in extent, filled with islands, and supposed in many parts to contain good anchorage ; but of its capabilities we have no information. The north-western point is named Terron Point, and its south-eastern, Carrasco Point ; under the former is a channel, named on the charts Cayuela Entrance. This sound also bears the name of Berkeley Sound. The land between Nitinat and Clayoquot Sounds, in the vicinity of the coast, may be considered as rattier low, forming alternately rocky cliffs and sandy beaches, with many detached rocks lying at a little distance from the shore, which land, when viewed from a distance, bears the appearance of being well wooded. The surface of this low country is very uneven, and at a short distance from tlie sea meets a compact body of rugged dreary mountains, whose summits are covered with snow, which, says Van- cover, extended on many, though not on all of them, a considerable way down, and impressed us with no great opinion of their fertility. CLAYOQUOT SOUND.— This sound lies in hit. 49° 10' N., and is very extensive. Over its surface are many large islands, particularly one named Flores, which is nearly 15 miles long ; and in tlie eastern part of the THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 181 Lage, and ' is a dark y fertile. ose wliere IS that of ipal rocks s, both as the geolo- trongly to extensive 3 of which IS likewise led. The , and cap- is disturb- ihave well, h a canoe ed. They but which I in length, ibed in the ittle infor- liles to the an inlet of many parts iformation. ith-eastern, the charts ey Sound. Inity of the rocky cliffs stance from appearance neven, and [ged dreary says Van- lerable way • N., and is icularly one I part of the sound is au extensive arm of the sea running into the land in a northerly direction about 25 miles, which is named Brazo de Tofino. Of the advantages of this sound we have no information, but in its southern part, a little within the entrance, there is said to be a moderately good harboui , named Port Cox. Cape Estevan, in lat. 49° 25' N. is the southern point of entrance to Nootka Sound. Off it a great many sunken rocks extend some distance. In sailing to the southward from this, Vancouver had soundings of 90 and 40 fathoms at the distance of 8 to 10 miles from the land. NOOTKA SOUND is an extensive inlet, formed, on the western side, by the large island of Nootka, which is 12 miles in extent, and separated from the shore by a narrow channel, named Tasis Canal. Through this canal it is probable that ships may pass, and so, leaving Nootka Sound, gain access to the ocean by Esperanza Inlet. This sound was formerly of consid> '•able importance, but of late years has much declined. The only account we have of Nootka Sound is that of Captain Cook, who visited it in 1778. "On my arrival in this inlet, I had honoured it with the name of King George's Sound ; but I afterwards found that it is called Nootka by the natives. The entrance is situated in the east comer of Hope Bay, in the latitude of 49° 33' N., and in the longitude of 126°t3G'E. The east coast of that bay, all the way from Breaker's Point to the entrance of the sound, is covered with a chain of sunken rocks, that seemed to extend some distance from the shore ; and, near the sound are some islands and rocks above water. We entered this sound between two rocky points that lie E.S.E. and W.N. W. from each other, distant between three and four miles. Within these points the sound widens considerably, and extends into the north- ward four leagues at least, exclusive of the several branches towards its bottom, the termination of which we had not an opportunity to ascertain. But, from the circumstance of finding that the water freshened when our boats crossed their entrance, it is probable that they had almost reached its utmost limits. And this prubability is increased by the hills that bounded it towards the land being covered with thick snow, when those towards the sea, or where we lay, had nut a speck remaining on them, though in gene- ral they were much higher. In the middle of the sound are a number o. islands of various sizes The depth of water in the middle of the sound, and even close home to some parts of the shore, is from 47 to 90 fathoms, and perhaps more. Tlie harbours and anchoring-places within its circuit are numerous ; but we had no time to survey them. The cove in which our ships lay is on the east side of the sound, and on the east side of the largest of the islands. It is covered from the sea, but has liltle else to recommend it, being exposed to the S.E. winds, which wo 18^ SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR found to blow with great violence ; and the devastation they make some- times was apparent in many places. The land bordering upon the sea-coast is of middling height and level, but within the sound, it rises almost everywhere into steep hills, which agree in their general formation, ending in round or blunted tops, with some sharp, though not very prominent ridges on their sides. Some of these hills may be reckoned high, while others of them are of very moderate height; but even the highest are entirely covered to their tops with the thick woods, as well as every flat part toward the sea. Tliere are some- times spots upon the sides of some of the hills which ai e bare ; but they are few in comparison of the whole, though they sufficiently point out the general rocky disposition of the hills. Properly speaking, they have no soil upon them, except a kind of compost, produced from rotten mosses and trees, of the depth of two feet or more. Their formations are there- fore to be considered as nothing more than stupendous rocks of a whitish or gray cast when they have been exposed to the weather ; but, being broken, they appeared to be of a bluish-gray colour, like that universal sort which was found at Kerguelen's Land. The rocky shores are a con- tinued mass of this ; and the little coves in the sound have beaches com- posed of fragments of it, with a few other pebbles. All these coves are furnished with a great quantity of fallen wood lying on them, which is carried in by the tide, and with rills of fresh-water sufficient for the use of a ship, which seem to be supplied entirely from the rains and fogs that hover about the tops of the hills ; for few springs can be expected in so rocky a country, and the fresh water found farther up the sound most probably arose from the melting of the snow, there being no reason to suspect that any large river falls into the sound, either from strangers coming down it, or from any other circumstance. The water of these lills is perfectly clear, and dissolves soap easily. The weather during our stay (March 29th to April 26th, 1778) corresponded pretty nearly with that which we had experienced off the coast. That is, when the wind was anywhere between North and West the weather was fine and clear; but, if to the southward of West, hazy with rain. The climate, as far as we had any experience of it. is infinitely milder than that on the east coast of America under the same parallel of latitude. The mercury in the thermometer never, even in the night, fell lower than 42° ; and very often in the day it rose to 60°. " Friendly Cove. — This small cove lies on the north-western side of Nootka Sound, just within the entrance, and is situated at the southern ^ extremity of Nootka Island. It is not more than three cables' length in extent, and the depth shoals gradually from six to two and a half fathoms. When inside, anchorage in six fathoms is afforded under shelter of the ke some- level, but ich agree irith some ) of these moderate with the are some- but they at out the y have no «n mosses are there- ' a whitish but, being universal are a con- lehes com- 3 coves are , which is jr the use i fogs that icted in so 9und most reason to strangers r of these during our learly with 3 wind was :lear; but, s far as we ) east coast ury in the ; and very em side of le southern s' length in If fathoms. (Iter of the THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AM P.RICA. 183 islands on ;he south side of the bay, which protect the cove from all quarters but the east. This place was visited in 1837 by Sir £. Belcher, who places the prin- cipal island at the entrance in lat. 49° 34' 5l>" N., and long. 126° 35' W. He has observed : — " We anchored in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, the very interesting point of Cook and Vancouver's operations. At first I doubted my senses, that so small a space could have occupied so much type, and until I had examined it myself in my boat, did liot think that it could afford shelter to two vessels. However, by placing one anchor outside, one well in, and the stream cable to the rocks, the Sulphur be- came well secure, with the Starling within us. The greatest distance between any two points does not exceed a quarter of a mile, and mostly rocky." At about four or five miles to the northward of Friendly Cove is an anchoring place, named Mowenna or Marvinas Bay, which is in con- siderable repute. Although further from the. sea than Friendly Cove, it yet possesses over it several advantages in point of security and accom- modation. The land in its vicinity continues to be low to a greater distance than about Friendly Cove, and seems to be composed of less rocky materials. The extent of this harbour is but small, but being well protected against all winds, and its distance from the ocean pre- venting it being much affected by the swell, several vessels might ride here in perfect security ; and as it has a fair navigable channel out of it in a southerly direction, vessels can sail from this harbour whenever the land wind prevails to push them clear of the sound, with infinitely more ease than from Friendly Cove ; out of which they are first obliged to warp a considerable distance, and to anchor not only in an inconvenient depth of water, but on an uneven rocky bottom, in addition to which, in the event of the wind suddenly setting strongly in from the sea, their situation becomes by no means pleasant. The departure from Friendly Cove, although not difficult in the summer season, yet is said to be subject in winter to great inconvenience, and indeed danger, from the heavy sea that rolls in stormy weather into the sound, especially during the S.E. gales, against which, from its vicinity to the ocean, it is not sufficiently protected. As a military establishment, however, Friendly Cove is greatly to be preferred to Mowenna, as nothing can pass or re- pass into the sound unobserved from it. At about four miles to the E.N.E of Friendly Cove is the entrance to an extensive inlet of Nootka Sound, named Zuciarte Arm, which is formed on the north side by a large island. Immediately within the entrance of this inlet, on the north side, is Resolution Cove, a small place in which Cook anchored in 1778, and refitted his vessel. Its advantages are unknown, but as he stayed here some time, it must have been found SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR a suitable place. The time of high water on the days of full and change is 12h. 2(hn., with a rise of tide of about 8ft. 9in. in the day time, and in the night time of two feet more. Proceeding northwards from Nootka Sound, 8 shoal is marked on the charts as existing two and a half miles from the land, with Mocuina Point, the northern point of the sound, bearing East, distant nine miles. At 15 miles nc>rth-west of the entrance of the sound is Ferrer Cove ; and beyond this about five miles is Esperanza Inlet, the inlet separating Nootka Island from the main, which has an island, named Catala, at its mouth, besides several rocks. Woody Point. — From Esperanza Inlet the coast trends round to the aorth-westward to Woody Point, in lat. 50° 6' N., and long. 127°52' W., and is but little known. Vancouver, v/hen sailing down the coast from Woody Point to Nootka, intended examining it, but was prevented by adverse winds. It appeared from a distance of three or four miles to contain several openings, apparently coves or harbours. Innumerable rocky islets and rocks lined the shores, whiih, on advancing, became low, but the country behind rose into hillj of considerable height, divided by many valleys ; beyond these it rose to mountains so elevated that at that season of the year, August, 1792, many patches of snow were still undissolved. Woody Point is an extensive projecting promontory, and of con- siderable height. About half a league westward of it is a small rocky islet, and another larger one lies N. 28° W., about a league from the north part of the point. Immediately to the northward of Woody Point is an extensive inlet, named Port Brookes, in which are some islets and rocks. From hence to Cape Scott, the coast, when viewed from a distance of three or four leagues, appears to be much broken, and to form many inlets, coves, and harbours. Under Cape Scott is an extensive inlet, named Josef Bay, which probably affords good anchorage. It appears to consist properly of two bays, but has not yet undergone an examination. Off its north point of entrance are two small islets. CAPE SCOTT, the north-west point of Vancouver Island, is in lat. 60° 47' N., and long. 128° 27' W. It is a low hummock, joined to the main land by a narrow isthmus, and off it about three and a half miles are sorr.? islands, the channel between being clear. There are also a few breakers at a small distance from the cape, in a direction of S. 27° E., about seven miles. In the vicinity of the cape the land is composed of hills of moderate height, although to the south-eastward it soon becomes very mountainous. The islands off Cape Scott consist of a group of three small and almost barren islets, with many rocks and breakers about them. West THE W£ST COAST OP NORTH AMERICA. 185 change le, and on the locuina e miles. ve ; and parating a, at its id to the °52'W., last from snted by miles to imerable , became 5 height, elevated of snow of con- lall rocky from the iive inlet, ora hence J or four , coves, led Josef :o consist mination. from the westernmost of them, a ledge of rocks extends about two miles, and south of it is another, about a league distant. The westernmost islands and rocks are named Scott's Islets, the middle, Lanz Islets, and the islet nearest Cape Scott, Cox Island. The outermost of the group, the Scott's Islets, are in lat. 50° 52' N., and long. 129° 5' W. Vancouver says of the soundings in this part : — " We saw Scott's Islets bearing S. 22° E., about seven leagues distant. The wind during the day was light end variable, though attended with fair weather ; in the evening it seemed fixed at S.S.W. j when, not being able to pass to windward of Scott's Islets, our course was directed to the north of them, towards Cape Scott, having soundings and a soft bottom at the depth of 80 and 90 fathoms, until about nine in the evening, when the water suddenly shoaled from 60 to 17 fathoms, and the bottom became rocky. On this we instantly stood back to the westward, lest we should approach some dangler, but we did not perceive either breakers or shoals, although the nigiit was still and clear. These soundings were from the western- most of Scott's Islets, N. 18° E., about five leagues; from this circum- stance, and from the distant rocks and shoals we saw extending from the shores of Calvert's Island, it is highly necessary that the space between Calvert's and Scott's Islands should be navigated with great caution." In the northern part of Vancouver Island, within Queen Charlotte Sound, is Beaver Harbour, in the vicinity of which, coal of an excellent quality has recently been discovered. It is represented to afford moderately good anchorage, but further than this we have no infor- mation. Since the diiscovery of the coal, many ships have touched at it. is in lat. ed to the lalf miles also a few 5. 27° E., nposed of 1 becomes small and West n. 186 SAILING DlRECTIOrtS FOR it ISLANDS AND ROCKS OFF TUE COASTS 07 CENTRAL AMERICA AND CALIFORNIA. k it' lii ! COCOS ISLAND. — This is an island about four miles in extent, the northe t of which, Chatham Bay, lies in lat. 5° S2' 57" N., and long. 86" 58' W., according to the determination of Sir Edward Belcher in 1838. It is of considerable height, particularly the western part, and when viewed from a distance of six or seven leagues, on a bearing of N. 73° E. to N. 81°E., its south-west extremity appears to rise abruptly from the sea, in steep rugged cliffs, to a considerable height, and then in a more moderate ascent to its most elevated part, which is a hill of no great size, from whence it descends more uniformly to its northern extremity, which appears like a detached islet. When viewed from the northward, opposite the bays, the shores appear to be composed of broken, perpendicular, rocky precipices, beyond which the surface rises unevenly to the summit of the island, the whole covered with a thicket of small trees near the shore, but on the more elevated land in the interior, with large spreading trees. This island can be seen more than 20 leagues off; but of its interior little is known, except that it is rocky and mountainous, and probably contains a large lake or sheet of water, such having been seen by some of the party under Sir E. Belcher. Its shores have only partially been examined, and principally at the northern part of the island, where there are two bays containing moderately good anchorage. Off the coasts are several detached islets and rocks, which extend some distance, and particularly from the S.W. part of the island, where they run off fully two miles, and would be dangerous, if it were not that they are sufficiently high to be seen THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 187 lA. extent, the ., and long, rd Belcher n part, and bearing of 36 abruptly , and then is a hill of ;s northern ewed from imposed of irface rises 1 a thicket ind in the more than that it is or sheet of I. Belcher, ally at the containing died islets h the S.W. would be be seen and avoided. The lower parts of these detached islets consist of a belt of white barren rock to the water's edge, and their tops are generally covered with trees. The coasts of the island are generally steep perpen- dicular cliffs, against which the sea breaks with so much violence as to preclude an attempt to land in any part except in the bays on its northern side. In many parts of these clifls are falls of excellent water, a supply of which, it is said, can easily be procured, as well as cocoa- nuts, and plenty of wood for fuel.* Captain Colnett, who visited the island in 1793, says: — " The western side of the island is the highest, and presents itself in the form of a round hill. The eastern side appears to be much broken, the land sloping in most parts abruptly to the sea, but in others presenting bold and perpendicular cliffs. The island does not appear to possess a spot where trees can grow that is not covered with them, or some kind of bushy plant, which, when blended with the barrenness of intervening rocks, pro- duces a picturesque effect ; while the streams pouring down from their various fountains to the sea greatly heighten the beauty of the scene. It is Otaheite on a small scale, but without the advantage of its climate, or the hospitality of its inhabitants." Vancouver appears not to have had so favourable an impression of the island, as Captain Colnett. ** This island cannot be considered as having a pleasant appearance in any one point of view, for although its inland surface is much diversified by hills and valleys, yet the only low land of any extent that we were certain it possesses is in the bottoms of the two bays, each of which forms the extremity of one of these valleys, bounded by craggy precipices, from the foot of which extends a narrow strip of low flat land that terminates in a beach at the water side, resembling more the dreary prospect exhibited at the heads of the several branches of sea we had so recently explored on the coast of North West America, than anything else I could compare them to. Every other part of the shore seemed to be composed of steep, broken precipices of rock, of which substance the interior of the island was apparently composed, as the naked cliffs were frequently seen protruding their barren sides through the thicket, which otherwise covered the surface of the island. This thicket, so far as we were able to ascertain, was chiefly composed of a great variety of trees of a moderate size, with an impenetrable underwood of the vine or supplejack kind, which op- posed any excursion into the country ; some attempts were, I believe, made to penetrate there by the water course, but this, from rocky * This is according to Vancouver ; but recent visitors to the island have stated that all the trees have been cut down. 188 SAILINO DIRECTIONS FOR precipices and other obstructions, was found to be equally impracticable; our knowledge of its productions must consequently be confined to our observations on the small margin between the woods and the sea shore, the only part that was accessible to us." The primary advantage of Cocos Island is the abundant supply of water which it affords. This abounds in every part, and is to be easily procured at the stations to which vessels can resort. From its purity and limpid appearance, and from its being destitute of any colour or unpleasant taste, either from dead leaves or other decayed matter, Vancouver was led to infer, although heavy rains had fallen during his stay in January, 1795, that the larger streams of water have a more remote and permanent source than accidental showers. The soil in the immediate vicinity of the streams falling into the bays is of a poor, loose, sandy nature ; but at a little distance behind the beach, and in the fissures of the rocks, there is a rich black mould, apparently of great fertility, and this is probably the case in other parts of the island. A I' the vegetable productions of the island grow luxuriantly. On the rock; cliffs near the sea, where the uneven surface will permit anything to grow, there is a coarse kind of grass, v;hich affords an excellent retreat for the sea-fowl, and also a particular kind of tree, something like the cloth plant of the South Sea Islands, but much larger. Some of these trees grow to the height of 30 feet, and have a brightish coloured bark, free from branches to the top, where the leaves fall over, giving the trees the appearance of umbrellas. Besides these trees there are others in the interior, occasionally of a considerable size, Chatham Bay. — The north-easternmost anchorage of the island is named Chatham Bay, from the armed tender accompanying Vancouver. It is not very large, and off its east and west points are two islets, the western and larger named Nuez, and the eastern Conic Islet ; these afford protection from the sea, especially the western islet. The width of the bay from point to point of the islets is about a mile, in a direction of S. 52° E., and N. 52° W. ; and from this line of direction its extent to the bottom of the bay is also about a mile. The soundings are regular, of from 12 to 50 fathoms, and vessels may ride very snugly within less than half a mile of the beach, in about 20 fathoms water, but in a less depth the bottom does not appear to be so free from rocks. Here Vancouver anchored, in January, 1794, in 33 fathoms, on a sandy and gravelly bottom, apparently good holding-ground and free from rocks. The east point of the bay, which is a small conical islet lying close to the north-east extremity of the island, bore S. 51° E., half a mile ; the west point of the bay S. 75° W. ; a steep rocky islet lying off it, from S. 87° W. to N. 66° W. ; and the watering place at the mouth of a v. .y fine ^ THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 189 icticable ; d to our iea shore, supply of be easily ts purity colour or i matter, uring his e a more 5oil in the )f a poor, ch, and in y of great and. AV the rock' ything to tnt retreat ig like the 3 of these iired bark, » the trees 5 others in e island is Vancouver, islets, the ilet ; these The width a direction , its extent re regular, ivithin less t in a less ;ks. Here sandy and rom rocks. ;lose to the ' ; the west rom S. 87° a v. .y fine stream, empying itself over a sandy beach S. 13° W., about three- quarters of a mile. Within this the Chatham also anchored, in 26 fathoms, similar bottom. Sir Edward Belcher says, that in Chatham Bay a vessel may anchor in six fathoms, within a quarter of a mile of the beach, but the best anchorage is in 12 fathoms. There a constant draught will be experi- enced between the openings of the islets, and a vessel can generally enjoy the refreshing sea-breezes, and fetch out at once, clear of the dangers, which are but few. From the depth of 20 fathoms, the soundings outside of Chatham Bay soon deepen to 40 and 50 fathoms, the latter at only one and a quarter mile from the shore. Both this and Wafer Bay afford good protection from the winds prevailing during the early months of the year ; and from the abundance of the vegetation growing riose to high water mark, it would seem that neither of them are subject to violent storms, or heavy seas. Wafer Bay, — At about a mile to the westward of Chatham Bay is Wafer Bay, which is more extensive and exposed than it, and its soundings are neither so regular, nor is the bottom so good. Into this bay a large stream of fresh water flows, and the sea breaks heavily. Captain Colnett appears to have preferred this bay to Cliatham Bay ; he says: — " It may be easily known by a small rugged barren rock, about the size of a large boat, bearing west of the body of the bay about five or six miles. It lies east and west, and its greatest depth is not two miles, nor is it one in breadth ; but I would not venture into it in a vessel of more than 200 tons. Its anchorage is in from 7 to 50 fathoms, and is nearly sheltered from all winds. This bay is also preferable to that at the North point, because the shore of the first is steep ; while that of the latter consists of a beautiful valley and sandy beach, where cocoa trees appear in greater numbers than I have seen in any other place. There is also a rivulet of water 18 or 20 feet in breadth, which is supplied from a basin one mile inland, in which our crew, to avoid the sharks, went and bathed. Although this bay is so small, it is very convenient, and as secure as the anchoring places generally are which are not entirely sheltered. Its principal inconvenience arises from the constant rains ; as out of the four days we were beating off it, it rained during three of them, and sometimes with heavy storms of lightning and thunder. Those on shore experienced an equal amount of wet weather ; and so thick was the rain, that, for eight hours together, we were not able to see twice the length of the ship ; but this may not be the case at all seasons." •*^ Of Wafer Bay it may bs said that one of its principal inconveniences is the heavy rollers, particularly at low water, at which time the flat VJO SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR extends out a considerable distance. It is also more subject to calms than Chatham Bay, and consequently not so easy of ingress and egress ; and being expose*^ to westerly winds, watering at all times is difficult, and at low tide quite impracticable. The climate was considered by Vancouver to be temperate and salubrious. The thermometer, in January, 1 795, was usually between 78° and 80°, yet the heat was not so oppressive as was experienced further to the northward, and no inconvenience was experienced from the heavy rains. The rise and fall of the tides by the shore are very considerable and regular, twice in the 24 hours, without any apparent stream, and are not influenced by the currents. The night tides appear to be the highest, and probably rise 10 feet perpendicularly; but at the time of the observations, the surf was too high to permit a very correct measure- ment. The time of high water is about 2h. 10m. after the moon passes the meridian. Cocos Island appears to be well provided with sea-fowls ; pigs, also, were left there by Captain Colnett, which appear to have increased and multiplied considerably. Fish are abundant, but difficult to catch ; eels are large and numerous, as also are the turtles, but they appear shy of coming to the land. It is said that there are a large number of rats of the white and brown kinds on the island, also land crabs of a prodigious size, and that goats are in the interior, but keep to the heights. MALPELO ISLAND. — The correct position of this island has not yet been ascertained, but lat. 4° N. and long. 81° 32' W., will not be far from it. Captain Colnett places it in lat. 4° 20' N., and long. 80° 45' W. It is a high, barren, and perpendicular rock, visible about 20 leagues. A small quantity of green moss, and a few dwarf bushes grow in its cracks or gullies, and are the only signs of vegetation it pos- sesses. It is surrounded with islets, and the whole may extend about 9 or 10 miles in a north and south direction. The centre of the island bears a resemblance from several points of view to the crown of a head; and its being barren accounts naturally enough for the name Malpelo, which the Spaniards have bestowed on it, and which signifies baid head. In the vicinity of this island the currents are strong, and have much the appearance of breakers ; the set appears probably to be to the N.E, by E., at the rate of two and a half miles an hour. Gallego Island, &c. — Between longitudes 104° and 106° "W., and latitudes 2° and 6° N, there are said to be two islands, bearing the n. >C8 of Gallego and Duncan, but their existence requires confirmation ; as also does one named Passion Island, reported to be in lat. 16° 54' N., THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 191 to calms 1 egress ; difficult, rate and between >erienced ced from ■able and and are ) be the e time of measure- on passes ligs, also, increased to catch ; ■y appear 3 number ,nd crabs ;p to the 1 has not ill not be ind long, ble about rf bushes on it pos- nd about 3 of the rown of a he name signifies ave much the N.E. W., and ;he n. ics ation; as '° 54' N., and long. 109° W. A writer in the Nautical Magazine for 1848, states the correct position of the latter to be lat. 17° IT N., and long. 100° 2V W., and that it appears from aloft to be high, and peaked in several places. CLIPPERTON ROCK.~This rock is in lat. 10° IT N., and long. 109° 10' W., and may be seen four or five leagues off. When seen from a distance of 10 or 12 miles, it is not unlike a sail, but as you approach it, it has more the appearance of an immense castle. The colour is very dark, in fact nearly black. This most dangerous rock and shoal is but little known, and thought by many not to exist, it becomes, therefore, the more important to avoid it, and give it as wide a berth as possible. Its vicinity is generally indicated by the presence of numerous sea-birds — the white gannet, wide awake, and booby, which are often found as much as 50 or 60 miles from the rock. The above position of Clipperton Rock is from the determination of Sir Edward Belcher, but it has recently been stated that its more correct position is lat. 10° 13' 2V N., and long. 109° T 30" W. The island is between seven and eight miles long, and is almost an even height from one end to the other, being only six or eight feet above the sea- level. The rock in its highest point is about 150 or 170 feet ; and the width of the island is about 1700 or 1800 yards. The island is composed of the whitest sand, and the only appearance of vegetation is one continous fine brown line, supposed to be of grass or rushes. The rock is conical, un- equal, and jagged, and at the northern end has a circular hole right through, about 50 feet from the top. The sea breaks over the whole extent of the island to windward, and at the north-east and south-west ends, at different distances from the sand- bank. It has been observed that, "as llie calms are sudden in these latitudes, and the winds variable (Clipperton being on the edge of the south-east trade-wind), if a ship is anxious to sight the lock, she should pass to the eastward of it, as the western side is evidently the windward side ; if it becomes calm when they are in the neighbourhood, there is less danger when they are to leeward, the swell will throw them off. CHpperton is the most naked, solitary danger that imagination can picture, situated as it is in the midst of the ocean, 600 miles from Acapulco, and 500 miles from Socorro and Gallego. The sand bank seems ill able to support the weight of the huge rock, and the rock itself appears to be sinking from its treacherous foundation. The sight of this tremendous and distressing danger, and the reflection it calls up of the awful calamities it ^as been the cause of, reminds one of the sublime truth of M. de Lamartine's remark, when he was surveying some of the ruins of the Hill of Baalbec, that * Silence is the only language of man, when what he feels outstrips the ordinary measure of his impressions.' 192 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR is There is an association with the ruins in the midst of a desert, and this solitary rock standing in the midst of the pathless ocean." In May, 1839, Clipperton Rock was visited by Sir Edward Belcher, and after mentioning that from a distance of about 15 miles, it presented the appearance of a brig close hauled, owing to the sun's rays playing on its nearest face, he proceeds to say : — " The name, Clipperton Rock, certainly misled us, and had we made the point at night, with a fair wind, would, almost inevitably, have severely damaged or destroyed both vessels. I certainly should have steered to pass it to the northward ; merely assuming it to be a solitary rock. Nothing in this name would lead a seaman to imagine a high rock, placed on the southern edge of a coral lagoon island, three miles long north and south, by the same east and west. Its description shoula stand thus : — A very dangerous low lagoon island, destitute of trees, with a high rock on its southern edge, which may be mistaken for a sail. This rock can be seen 15 miles. In thick weather the low coral belt, which appears like sand, will not be distinguished until close to it. The breakers on the eastern side of it do not afford sufficient warning for a vessel to trim or change course. On the northern part of the belt, the land is a little raised, and appears to be clad with something like grass. There are two entrances, which at high water may be safe ; but at the moment we passed, the surf was too heavy, and the reflux showed the rocks bare. The dangers from the rock, northerly, extend two miles easterly, and the same north-westerly. On the beach several la)^e trees were observed, and an object which was thought to be part of a vessel, near the western opening. In the centre of the lagoon, as viewed from the mast-head, there is one large hole of blue water, and a second belt is connected with rock, attaching it to the eastern side of the island. This literally constitutes two islands, formed by its two openings ; both are on the weather side of the island. No living trees were seen, but the whole island was covered with gannett, boobies, frigate pelicans, and several kinds of tern, which had also been noticed in great numbers during the previous week, at least 600 miles to the eastward. From this, an easterly current may be inferred, as these birds generally keep in its stream or tail course.* No bottom was obtained by the Sulphur, with 100 fathoms of line, but * It does not therefore follow, as a matter of course, as noticed by some writers, that the appearance of birds denotes land to windward ; they are more likely guided by tide. THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 193 and this cher, and ;nted the ng on its n Rock, fair wind, fed both irthward ; ligh rock, niles long IV lagoon ge, which :oral belt, )it. The ling for a the belt, ;hing like but at the lowed the two miles a)^e trees ■ a vessel, ere is one ith rock, onstitutes er side of ered with vhich had , at least t may be se.* f line, but me writers, if^ly guided the Starling had soundings with less than 100, on the northern side of the island. Sharks, porpoises, and turtle were observed together. The former annoyed us much by biting at our patent logs, for which one was taken, and made an example of. They were very large, and literally swarmed. In all probability, they were attracted by a shoal of file (balistes) and other small fish which had been feeding off our copper since quitting the Island of Cocos." REVILLAGIGEDO ISLANDS.— This is a group of islands in lat. 18° 43' N., the largest of which, Socorro, is stated to be nearly 30 miles in extent. They are evidently of volcanic origin, and are said to supply neither wood nor water. The name Rivella Gigeda, or Revillagigedo as the islands are more generally called, was given by Colnett in 1793, in compliment to the Viceroy of Mexico, from whom he had received much kiridness and civility. Socorro. — This island is lofty, making in several peaks, the highest of which is probably 2000 feet above the sea level. Its northern and western shores have, as yet, only partially been examined, the principal anchoring-places being on the south-eastern coast, which is represented to have a dreary and forbidding aspect. The general direcion of the island is W.N.W. and E.S.E., and its average breadth is about three leagues. It may be said to consist of one mountain, which can be seen at the distance of about SO leagues in clear weather, falling in a gradual descent on the south side. It is in a great measure covered with brush- wood, intermixed with the low prickly pear-trees, A occasionally shaded with other trees of a larger growth. Some few patches of the soil are black and barren, as if fire had lately issued near it ; and the top of the high land has the appearance, from a distance, of being an extinct volcano : the surface is of a whitish colour, like that of pumice-stone. Although Socorro has not recently given evidence of volcanic action, yet there is little doubt that the whole of this group of islets originated from that source. Off the north and west coasts of Socorro there are some detached rocks ; and some rocks extend also olf the south shore, which is a high bold coast. On this side of the island are two bays, Cornwallis * and Braithwaite Bays, in which there is moderately good anchorage, under shelter of the land. Captain Colnett says : — " The seasons of the year being considered, I think the safest anchorage, from June to December, is between the south and south-west points, opposite to two white coral • In this bay there are soundings of 30 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom. Colnett anchored herein 1703, in 26 fathoms, at about two miles from the shore, with the extremes of the island bearing from W.N.W. to E.S.E. ; and two small sandy beaches N. by F N.N.E. o 194 SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR ml beaches, which are the first two in succession from the south point of the island towards the west. It is the place where we first anchored, and remarkable from the pinnacle rocks which lay close off the west point of the baj . I prefer ♦his place in the bad season, as the wind seldom blows more than two points to the southward of East. In the good season, however, that is from the latter end of December to the beginning of June, I prefer the south-east bay, being better anchorage and nearer to the cove, which was the only good landing-place we discovered, and is easily known, being a stony beach at the first inlet in the shore to the eastward of the south point : all other parts of the coast on the south sid« of the island are iron-bound, which makes it extremely difficult, if not impossible, to land, except in very fine weather." Braithwaite Bay is an open roadstead, exposed to the eastward and southward; in it the soundings are 17 to 10 fathoms, sand and coral. Its position is lat. 18° 43' \4f' N. and long. 110° 54' 15" W., according to Sir Edward Belcher, who observes : — *' The landing is rocky, with shores of lava coule, and nothing like a beach. Neither wood nor water was visible, although from the constant clouds which hang over the high peaks, there must be a supply in some other point. Lieut. Wood was despatched to examine the westward bay for wood or water. His report (not having landed) was, * that goats were observed, the bay spacious, but no indications of wood or water visible.* It is probable that the goats find water. I found it difficult to penetrate into the interior of the island, even for a few hundred feet, owing to the prevalence of the cactus opuntia; all who attempted to do so suffered for their curiosity. One of my boat's crew made himself ill by eating a large bean which grew abundantly ; but as I partook of them cooked without injury, I suspect him to have indulged too freely." Some of Captain Colnett's people also suffered severely from the same cause. St. Benedict© Island. — This island is to the north-eastward of Socorro, in lat. 19° 20' N. and long. 110° 45' W., and when viewed from the southward, has a barren appearance, with little or no vegetation. It is about six miles long, in a N.E. and S.E. direction, and two or three in breadth, and has a few rocks, just above the water, off several parts of it. Its surface is uneven, and its aspect is described as romantic, it having the appearance of two distinct islets, when seen from a distance of nine or ten miles. On its western side is a small bay, which has not been examined. RocA Partida. — This is a dangerous barren rock, 50 or 60 fathoms long, in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, lying in lat. 19° 9' N. and long. 1 12° 2' W. Its breadth is only 25 or 30 fathoms, and both ends are 100 or 120 feet in height, the north-west end appearing forked, and the THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA. 195 t of the ed, and point of m blows season, [ining of Barer to i, and is } to the te south It, if not 'axd and id coral, ccording ky, with or water the high ood was r. His the bay probable nd, even opuntia; ny boat's ndantly ; to have suffered tward of viewed getation. two or ff several romantic, distance hich has fathoms and long. s are 100 , and the south-east end like a ragged hay-cock. The two heights are separated by a ragged saddle, which rises 18 or 20 feet above the surface of the sea, and is nearly perpendicular. At a boat's length from the rock there are 35 fathoms ; and at half a mile off, 50 fathoms ; and afterwards no bottom with 100 fathoms of line. The rock appears from every direction like a sail under a jury-mast. CLARION ISLAND.— To the westward of Revillagigedo Islands is Clarion Island, a small island of considerable height, and very similar in its natural features to Socorro Island. The hills are lofty, the highest peak being estimated to be 1500 feet high, and when bearing to the N.E. they make in three hummocks, which give the island, from a distance, the appearance of three distinct islets. It is probable that it contains but little fresh water, although there must be a great deal precipitated from the clouds, which almost constantly hang over the high land. Neither wood nor other necessaries can be obtained, still a vessel in great distress might have her wants to some extent relieved. The island is about five and three-quarter miles long, and two miles broad, and has been but little examined, particularly the north shore. On its southern side is a small bay named Sulphur Bay, the east side of which is in lat. 18° 20' 36" N. and long. 114° 40' 19" W. ; in this Sir Edward Belcher attempted to moor, but was prevented by the breaking of his anchor. The east end of the island appears to be steep and pre- cipitous. In the vicinity of Clarion, several islands have been reported, and Sir Edward Belcher sought for them for a considerable time, without success. It may therefore be concluded that as the position of the island was not till lately very accurately ascertained, it has been seen by various parties, and reported by each as a distinct discovery. ALIJOS ROCKS.— This is a veiy dangerous group of rocks, lying off the coast of California, in lat. 24° 57' 25" N. and long. 115° 45' 20" W. ALIJOS ROCKS, bearing about S. U° E., diitant t«ro miles. The southernmost and largest rock is about 110 feet high, and there are many above and under water close to it. See view of them in the chart of the coast of California, published by the proprietor of this work. GUADALOUPE ISLAND.— This island is to the northward of the Alijos Rocks, and its north point is represented to be in lat. 29° 10' 50" N., o2 196 SAILINU DIRECTIONS FOR, ETC. and long. 118° 18' 30" W. It is about 15 miles long by five miles broad, and is very lofty in the interior, a chain of hills extending through the whole length of the island. The highest of these hills is over 2000 feet high, and one near the north point of the island is estimated to be even 34<12 feet in elevation. The island can be seen a distance of about 60 miles, and will appear, when bearing either east or west, lower at its southern extremity than at its northern. GUADALOUPE ISLAND, the Norih Point bearing S. 46o E., five and a half miles. Ofif the south end of the island are two rocky islets at some distance from the shore, the outermost of which is 500 feet high. The shores are in general bo;.d, but have not been closely examined ; although it is said that a small cove exists on the south-east shore, which is formed by some rocky islets, and contains the only anchorage in the island, the riding being in seven fathoms, and the shelter from all winds except those between S.E. and E.N.E. But few supplies of any description can be obtained here, the island being quite barren and rocky, and affording very little sustenance for any thing except goats. It is said that wood and water may be obtained from a cove on the north-east side of the island. Vancouver says that the Spaniards were accustomed to make this island when bound to the southward from Monterey, or from their other northern settlements ; in which route they passed to the westward, out of sight of thtt islands forming the canal of Sta. Barbara, for the advan- tage of continuing in the strength of the N.W. winds; and thus they reached this island, and afterwards steered a course for Cape San Lucas. e miles tending hills is sland is ! seen a east or /-, APPENDIX. ^■7*^5 SliPw^ distance hores are it is said I by some he riding ept those the island nance for may be nake this leir other ;ward, out he advan- hus they in Lucas. GULF OF TEHUANTEPEC. During the period that this work has been going through the press, the elaborate report of the engineers engaged in the survey of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, with a view to the construction of a railroad from the Gulf of Mexico to the shores of the Pacific, has appeared ; which supplies some additional information to that by Captain Masters, contained in the body of the work, pp. 34 — 41. LA VENTOSA. — The bay selected as the place of junction for the railroad with the Pacific is that of La Ventosa, situated in latitude 16° IV N. and longitude 95° 14' W., according to the determination of the surveyors; which position is about 12 miles to the south-eastward of the Town of Tehuantepec. It is not very extensive, being only two or three miles across ; but it presents some advantages which the other bays on this coast do not possess. Although open to the South and East, vessels may safely ride at anchor in it, as the holding-ground is excellent, and the depth of six and seven fathoms almost all over the bay, very con- venient. The soundings are gradual from three fathoms at the distance of 100 yards from the beach, to seven and eight fathoms at the distance of 1000 yards ; and the anchorage is on a muddy bottom extending E.N.E. from the Point of the Morro. Mr. Temple says of La Ventosa : — " I am of opinion that La Ventosa is not only the best, but the point for a harbour on the Pacific coast of the Isthmus. It is a far better and safer port than either Valparaiso in Chili, or Monterey in California ; ports in constant use the year through- out. I speak from personal observation, as well as from an examination of the several charts, and the similarity of outline has suggested the com- parison ; for, although the indentation of the coast is possibly a little deeper at each of these places than at La Ventosa, yet they are both open to the northward, and as the general trend of the coast is nearly north and south, the prevailing gales blow directly along shore n d into these har- bours, creating a heavy swell, and often forcing vessels to slip and go to sea for safety : whereas, at La Ventosa the trend of the coast is east and west, so that the Northers blow directly oflf-shore, and create no swell 198 APPENDIX. \^ i .? Ml whatever. The danger being from the sudden strain brought upon a cable by the surging of a vessel in a sea-way, and not from the steady strain caused by the wind, it follows that northers may be disregarded in an estimate of the safety of this anchorage, as was satisfactorily shown in the case of the Gold Hunter, But Northers, although frequent during the winter, and seldom occurring at other seasons, are the only gales that blow in this region. The southerly winds, characteristic of the summer and autumn, are said to be nothing more than thunder squalls of short duration, and incapable of raising a sea. Even the fresh and steady sea- breezes that prevailed during the latter portion of our stay at La Ventosa were unaccompanied by any increase of swell." The following is an extract from the Report on La Ventosa by the engineer, P. E. Trastour, Esq. : — " The western extremity of the bay is formed by the Cerro Morro, an isolated rock of oblong shape, rounded at the summit, about 150 feet high and 2600 in circumference ; and a little more to the south by a pointed rock, separated from the former by an interval filled in with sand, and forming an angular projection into the sea, known under the name of the Point of the Morro. On the west, the Point of the Morro is contiguous, by its base, to an uninterrupted series of rocky hills, lining the beach and covering an ex- tent of 6000 feet. They cut perpendicularly the flank and rear of an agglomeration of moderate heights, somewhat rugged and precipitous at their summits, and forming together a thick cluster of granitoidal struc- ture, disposed in strata wherein feldspath and amphibole are predo- minant. It is the last link of that chain which, detaching itself at the north-west from the Cordillera of Oaxaca, descends by an irregular series of decreasinir^ heights, passes to the north of Huamelula, turning it at the south-east, and terminates at the Pacific Ocean, where it separates the Bay of La Ventosa from the Bay of Salina Cruz. The sandy strand of La Ventosa commences at the foot of the lateral portion of the Cerro Morro, facing the east, and describes from the south to the north-east an arc nearly two and a half miles in length ; then takes an easterly and almost rectilinear direction, but drawing a little towards the south, extends on about six miles further, where it runs into the sea: after which it turns back again abruptly and inclines toward.: the north, though * trending ' all the while in an easterly direction. From the summit of the Cerro Morro looking toward the east, the beach loses itself in a distant horizon, and unfolds to the eye a long belt of white sand from two to three hundred feet wide, terminating inland by a vast plain, scarcely broken upon by the isolated hillocks of Huazontlan. This plain, of a slightly undulating nature, is composed of sand, clay, and vege- table earth. It is covered with trees of middling size, which grow both • APPENDIX. 199 \ a cable ly strain d in an n in the ring the lies that summer of short lady sea- Ventosa a by the lorro, an 150 feet uth by a ith sand, I name of ,se, to an ig an ex- 3ar of an pitous at lal struc- re predo- elf at the liar series I it at the Eirates the he lateral the south hen takes towards o the sea : ;he north, the beach It of white by a vast an. This and vege- :row both thinner and smaller, as one advances towa^-ds the east. But in the direc- tion of the Cordillera which separates the Isthmus into two parts, north and south, this alluvial country is generally flat, presenting at rare inter- vals detached heights, easily avoided in the planning of a road of any character whatever, offering to the view fields of com, indigo, sugar- cane, palm-trees, nopals, bananas, orange-trees, cocoanut-trees, and plants of which the vigour and variety bear witness to the great fertility of the soil. The sandy beach of La Ventosa itself is cut by lagoons of little depth, having several outlets into the sea, and by the bed of the Tehuantepec River. At the time of the periodical overflow, this current flows over a low country before reaching the Pacific Ocean, in which it then empties itself, not only by its mouth, situated 16° 2(y 40" N. latitude and 95° 15' 25" W. longitude, but also by means of those lagoons, its t-iie outlets during the dry season. The volume of the water of the river is subject to very great variations in the course of the year. In the rainy season it reaches 12 feet depth, in years of an extraordinary character. The rainy season usually commences in the month of June and finishes in the beginning of October. The Isthmus, in general, offers as many different climates as localities, differing from one another by their situa- tion, the nature of their soil, the atmospheric phenomena, and the posi- tion of their mountains in respect to the cardinal points. Advantages. — The immense basin of La Ventosa presents a safe and commodious harbour to vessels of all sizes. Closed at the west by the heights of the Morro, it is open at the south and east. This configura- tion of the bay allows vessels to have ingress and egress, irrespective of the quarter from which the wind blows. Throughout its great extent, and on entering it from the sea, no shoals are to, be met with; everywhere a good anchorage is to be found. The bottom is of compact sand, and a great proportion of it is mixed with clay. The depth is almost regularly graduated : it presents at from 350 to 8000 feet distance from the shore, a progressive running from 17 to 53 feet, and averaging, for the first thousand feet, two feet increase per hundred feet, and about six inches per hundred feet for the following thousand feet. The greatest difference that has been observed in the level of the water was six and a half feet. Winds. — Besides the variable winds, which are rather light, and the land and sea breezes of the morning and evening, two prevalent winds, the north-north-east and south-south-west winds, reign during a great portion of the year on the southern coast of the Isthmus. The first of these two atmospheric currents is not felt at GO miles east of La Ventosa, •9L m M! 200 APPENDIX. beyond the Barra de Tonala ; nor at 62 miles west, beyond the moun^ tain of Chahuhe, which bounds on the west the lagoon of Tengu- lunda. The north-north-east wind usually begins to blow about the 15th of October and ceases in the fore part of April. In the month of November it blows without interruption, and at that time it reaches its maximum. Towards the middle of December it ceases during intervals of from 10 to 12 days, and then begins anew to blow one or two weeks. These altera- tions or interruptions and renewals are reproduced at short and unequal periods. But the length of the period of discontinuance goes on gra- dually increasing till the wind only blows one day, and finally ceases completely. The Indians of Santa Maria del Mar are familiar with the indications announcing the coming of the north-north-east winds. In the evening at about sun-down, if the summits of the mountains of Guichicovi and San Miguel Chimalapa (seen from the coast) are concealed from the view by quantities of slate-coloured vapour, it is indicative that the northers will blow the day following, and will last as many days as the summits of those Cordilleras continue to be covered with similar clouds. Vapour of a corresponding hue, seen at the same hour, at the horizon of the Pacific Ocean, announces that the south-south-west wind will blow on the day following. The south-south-west wind, which in winter succeeds the north wind, during one or two days at most, is the only general wind prevailing dur- ing the months of June, July, and August. After some gales of more or less intensity, which may be compared to the violence of the north wind, and not exceeding one and a half or two hours' duration, the southerly wind is definitely fixed. Towards evening its intensity decreases till the next morning, when the same phenomenon is renewed. Still, this wind is subject to more interruption than the north wind, and the intervals of repose last longer. The south-south-west wind, passing over the ocean, reaches the coast of the Isthmus laden with vapours, which at certain hours of the day resolve themselves into abundant showers. In winter and in summer, during the prevalence of the southerly and northerly winds, the current of the sea is from east to west ; its greatest velocity is about one and a half mile per hour. This continual move- ment in the waters of the Pacific is only discernible at a distance of about 6000 feet from the shores of La Ventosa. The bay of La Ventosa is much safer than the harbour of Vera Cruz. Violent tempests frequently render the latter inaccessible during several days, and even when the north wind blows, the communication between the town and the vessels in the harbour is interrupted. During our • • APPENDIX. 201 moun^ Tengu- 15th of jvember kximum. )m 10 to e altera- unequal on gra- y ceases Lications evening :ovi and the view northers mmits of apour of e Pacific the day •th wind, [ing dur- ' more or th wind, outherly s till the his wind intervals over the v^hich at jrs. lerly and greatest lal move- of about .^ sojourn at the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, we have never had to record one tempest or hurricane on the Pacific Ocean. In December, 1850, while we were atLaVentosa, the north-north-east wind blew (off shore) with extreme violence from the 7th to the 17th of tliat month, and we remarked, with surprise, that the sea was not- agitated. To enable you to appreciate the condition of the sea at La Ventosa, such as it actually is, it would perhaps be well here to mention that our soundings were effected by means of an open boat, five feet beam by 18 feet long, which we had brought from New Orleans, and which was conveyed across the Cordillera ; with this boat we were able to sail out eight miles into the open sea." BOCA BARRA. — At about 22 miles to the eastward of La Ventosa is the Boca Barra, the entrance to an extensive lagoon. The coast be- tween is low and flat, and has soundings of five and a half to eight fathoms at one and a half to two miles from the shore. The lagoon runs into the land about 12 miles, and is altogether fully 30 miles in extent, but it is of little use to navigation, there being numerous shoals scattered over its surface, and the entrance being too shallow to admit vessels even of a moderate size. On the bar breakers constantly prevail, which add greatly to the difficulty experienced in running in. The soundings immediately outside the entrance of the Boca Barra are two and a half to four fathoms, fine sand. On the 9th of November, 1850, at llh. 45m. a current was found setting out of it at the rate of seven and a half miles an hour. !ra Cruz. g several between iring our # ii n 202 APPENDIX. to ' (t WINDS IN THE PACIFIC. r ■}W ' The following remarks on the winds which prevail in some parts of the Pacific, and on the North-western Coast of America, are by Lieutenant James Wood, late commanding H. M. S. Pandora : — ** The prevailing winds of the Pacific, with the exception of those on the coasts of Chili and Peru, are little known. A few remarks, there- fore, on those that obtain along the western coast of America, from the river Guayaquil to Vancouver Island, as well as on the more regular and extended aerial currents which traverse the vast expanse of the open ocean, condensed from observations and information collected during a four years' cruize over the greater part of it, may not be destitute of interest and utility, especially as the northern portion is but little known, and promises, ere long, to become the theatre of an important trade between the coasts of China and the new and rich countries which American enterprise and energy are now so rapidly peopling and raising from obscurity on the coast of California. The whole of this extensive line may be divided into three portions or zones : — First. — The intertropical, which is more or less affected by the fine and rainy seasons. Secondly.' — The dry and arid portion which extends from 2S° to 32° north, where the winds blow with almost the regularity of a trade wind. Thirdly. — The more variable northern coast, which is subject to greater vicissitudes of climate. Guayaquil Biver to Guascama Point. — The Intertropical. — Along the whole of the coast from the river Guayaquil, in lat. 3° S., to Guascama Point in 2° N., the wind is mostly from south to west all the year round ; the exceptions are few, and generally occur in the fine season. Both in beating up this coast to the southward, and in running down it, the former in the months of May and June, the latter in those of October, November, and January, we had the wind from S.S.E. to W. (by the south,) with a constant current to the north-eastward, the APPENDIX. 203 only difFerence being that the winds were lighter, and the weather finer in May and June as we got to the southward ; whilst the contrary took place in October and Nove'.iber; and in January the weather was generally fine, with moderate breezes. Choco Bay. — After entering the Bay of Choco, of which Point Guas- cama forms the southern horn, the winds become more variable ; but during the time we were in the bay (from the end of January to the middle of March) it never blew very fresh, though the weather was often unsettled and heavy rains frequent. The prevailing wind was from south-west, but north-westerly winds were not uncommon. CiiiRAMBiRA Point to the Gulf of San Miguel. — When past Chirambira Point (the northern horn of Choco Bay) we had the wind nwre from the northward, and in the latter end of March had to beat up to Panama Bay against north-westerly and north-easterly breezes, blowing a fresh breeze at times, especially as we approached the bay. In surveying this last-named part, in January, 184^, we found the winds more variable, heavy rains almost always accompanying a change to south- west, from which quarter we once or twice had a stiff breeze. Gulf of San Miguel to the Gulf of Dulce, including the Bay of Panama. — First, or Intertropical Winds. — Between the southern point of the Gulf of San Miguel and the Gulf of Dulce, including Panama Bay and the coast of Veragua, the winds are regulated by the seasons. Towards the end of December the northers begin to blow. These are fine, dry breezes which generally come on in the afternoon, and blow very fresh from N.N.E. to N.N.W. till near midnight, with a perfectly clear and cloudless sky, and the air so dry and rarified that objects on a level with the horizon are distorted and flattened, and the same efi'ects are caused as are seen during an easterly breeze ofi" our own coast. Though generally a double-reefed topsail breeze, they occasionally blow much harder, especially ofi" the coast of Veragua, where, in the months of January and February, even a close-reefed topsail breeze is not uncommon. During even the strongest of these, a dead calm often prevails 10 or 15 miles off the land, the only evidence of the gale that is blowing within a few hundred yards of you being the agitation of the water, which is raised into short hollow waves, which break on board of and tumble you about awfully. Towards the end of March up to the middle of April, the Northers begin to cease, and are succeeded by calms and light sea and land breezes, with occasional squalls from the south-westward. As April advances the squalls get stronger and more frequent, and by the early part of May the rainy season generally sets in, during the greater part of which south and south-westerly winds prevdl : these are not very violent within the Bay of Panama ; but from Punta Mala, westward, gales from the above 204 APPENDIX. [' :i! i::! ■^ p l\ flh quarters are frequent, and sometimes severe, bringing a very heavy sea ■wi*-h them. Gulf of Dulce to the Gulf of Fonseca. — From the Gulf of Duke, proceeding westward along the shores of Costa Rica, Guatemala, and Mexico, \re find the winds still follow the changes of the seasons, modified, however, by locality. For instance, whenever the northers prevail, we find them blowing off the shore at nearly right angles to the run of the coast ; thus, as soon as the coast of Nicaragua is approached (which takes a more northerly direction than that before mentioned), we find, during the fine season, the northers exchanged for breezes called * Papagayos.' These blow from N.N.E. to E.N.E. or E., and are accompanied by the same clear fine weather as the northers ; the pre- vailing wind, however, during this season (from January to April) is from south-east to north-east. From May to November, which is the rainy season, the weather is mostly bad, gales from the west and south- west with thunder, lightning, &c., being frequent and at times violent. Gulf of Fonseca to the Gulf of Tehuantepec. — After passing the Gulf of Fonseca, where the land again trends nearly due west, the northerly winds are lost, till on reaching the Gulf of Tehuantepec we meet them once more, but under a different name, and assuming a more violent character. Along this portion where the mountains approach, and even in some places form the coast line, the winds during the fine season are the usual tropical land and sea breezes ; the former from N. W., the latter from S. to W.S.W. and W. The remaining months are marked by even worse weather from the same quarters as is found on the Nica- ragua coast. The Gulf of Tehuantepec to Tejupan Point. — First, or Inter- tropical "Winds. — The heavy blasts which blow over the Isthmus of Te- huantepec, derive their source from the country they cross. They seem to be caused by the northers in the Gulf of Mexico, which here find a vent through the opening formed between the Mexican and Guatema- lian mountains. They blow with great force from North to N.N.E., and raise a very high short sea j their force is felt several hundred miles off the coast. During the season when they prevail (December to April) every preparation should be made to meet and carry sail through them : if this can be done they are soon crossed, and 200 to 250 miles of westing (or easting) made ; otherwise, if you are obliged to heave to, 36 to 118 hours of heavy weather may be expected, exposed all the while tc a very high and short sea. In the rainy season these cease ; but the weather here, as along the whole coast of Mexico, is then very bad, gales and strong breezes from S.E. to S.W. constantly occur, whilst squalls accompanied by thunder and lightning, with heavy, and almost inces- APPfilfDIX. 205 eavy sea &ulf of atemala, seasons, northers s to the )roached tied), we es called and are the pre- I is from le rainy I south- ,t times r passing srest, the epec we a more pproaQh, the fine nN.W., marked le Nica- )r Inter- of Te- ey seem e find a uatema- N.N.E., d miles D April) them : westing to 118 c a very weather lies and squalls t inces- sant rain, characterise the season throughout. These gales are at times very severe, rendering the navigation of such a coast very unpleasant, as, with one exception, there is scarcely any shelter from them to be found. During the fine season,' however, nothing can be more regular or quiet than the weather on the Mexican coast ; a regular sea breeze sets in about noon, beginning from S.S.W. to W.S.W., and getting more westerly as the sun goes down, decreasing with ifc, and gradually sinking into a calm as the night closes in. This is succeeded by the land wind off the shore, which is more irregular in its direction and force, but these winds, and the method of making a passage to the westward, along the coast, have been so well, and so truly described by Dampier and Basil Hall, that nothing remains but to add my testimony to the correctness of the accounts they give, as far as their phenomena fell under my own observation. As soon as the coast begins to trend northerly again, which it does about Tejupan Point, we meet the northerly winds which blow down the Gulf of California, and which are found pretty steady during the fine season a few miles off the coast : by taking advantage of these, and the daily variations caused by the land and sea breezes, the passage is made from this point to San Bias and Mazatlan ; but it is always a tedious beat, owing to a contrary current and frequent calms. Cape St. Lucas to San Dieoo. — Second Portion or Division. — From Cape St. Lucas to San Diego, or from 23° to 32° N., the general direction of the wind is from west to north, but during the winter months, or from November U April, this coast is subject to violent gales from the S.E., which, as most of the bays and anchorages are open towards thai quarter, are much dreaded. This is especially the case along the northern portion of this division, as towards Cape San Lucas they are less frequent; however, they always give ample warning of their approach. The only way, therefore, of making a passage up this coast, is by standing off upon the starboard tack ; as you get out,- the wind draws to the eastward, till either the variables are reached, or you can fetch your port on the other tack. In the summer season the only alteration is that the wind is more westerly in the mornings, rnd draws round with the sun as the day advances. From San Diego to San Francisco. — Third Division. — From San Diego to San Francisco the wind prevails from the north-westward nearly all the year round. This coast is subject to the same south-easterly gales as the coast of Lower California, but they are more frequent here, and blow with greater force. All its bays and roadsteads are similarly exposed with the exception of the above named ports, which are perfectly secure and defended from all winds. During the winter, therefore, vessels always anchor in a convenient berth for slipping, with •206 APPENDIX. springs and buoys on their cables, so that on the first appearance of heavy clouds approaching from the south-east, with a swell rolling up from the same quarter (the invariable signs of the coming gale), they may be able to slip and go to sea without loss of time. These gales last from 12 hours to two days, and are accompanied by heavy rain, which lasts ill the wind changes, which it often does very suddenly, and blows as hard for a few hours from the north-west, when the clouds clear off and fine weather again succeeds. Off Conception Point gales and strong breezes are so frequent as to obtain for it the appellation of the Cape Horn of California. They are mostly from north to west, and frequently blow with great force, especially in the winter, when they sometimes last for three days together, without a cloud to be seen, till they begin to moderate. But here one of the most remarkable features of this coast first shows itself, viz., the frequent and dense fogs, which, during more than half the year, render the navigation from San Diego north- ward most unpleasant. In making the land, the only way to deal with them, is to feel your way into the coast with the lead during the day- time, as it frequently happens that a thick fog prevails at sea, while, at the same time, within a mile or two of the land, a beautiful clear bright sky, and open horizon are tc be found : if disappointed in this, you have but to wear, haul off again, and heave to till the desired change does take place. From San Francisco to Vancouver Island. — From San Francisco northward to Fuca Strait, the north-westerly are still the prevailing winds ; in the months of June, September, and October, we found them almost constantly so : hard gales from all points of the compass, however, may be looked for here at all seasons, especially during the winter, and the equinoxial months. These begin generally from S.E. to S.W., bringing thick rainy weather with them. After blowing from these quarters for some hours, they fly rou id to the northward, (by the west,) with little if any warning, except the increased heaviness of the rain, and blow even haruer than before. During the spring, easterly "nd north- westerly breezes are more prevalent than at other seasoi!,a. In the summer months, westerly winds and fine weather prevail, but from the end of July to the end of August the fogs are so frequent that many weeks will sometimes pass without a clear day. From the Southward to Panama Bay. Method of Making Passage within the 1st Division. — From what has been said respecting the winds which prevail within the first division, it will be seen that the passage from the southward to Panama Bay is easily made during the greater part of the year ; but in the fine season, when APPENDIX. 207 ; many within the influence of the northers, the following plan shouiv! he adopted. Make short tacks in-shore, as there is generally a set to the northward found within a few miles of the land, and where that is interrupted, a regular tide is exchanged for a constant current farther off. Between Chirambira Point and Cape Corrientes the land is low and faced with shoals, caused by the mouths of the numerous rivers which have their outlets on this part of the coait, but after passing Cape Corrientes, it may be ap))roached pretty closely, except, off Francisco Solano Point, where some shoal rocky patches extend to seaward, as the coast is in general bold-to. Care, however, should be taken not to run into the calms caused by the high lands, as it is difficult to get off into the breeze again, and the swell sets in-shore where it frequently happens that no anchorage is to be found till close to the rocks. In beating up the Bay of Panama, in the fine season, the eastern pas- sage, or that between the Islas del Rey and the main is to be preferred, as, with one exception, it is free from dangers. The water is smooth, and a regular tide enables you to make more northing than it would be pos- sible to do in nine cases out of ten, against the strong current and short high sea which at this season prevail in the centre or on the western side. During the rainy season a straight course up the bay is preferable to entangling yourself with the islands, the current generally following the direction of the wind. From Panama Bay to the Southward. — But the great difficulty, at all times, consists in getting either to the southward or westward of Panama. The passage to the southward is made in two ways, — either by beating up the coast against a constantly foul wind and contrary current, or by standing off to sea till sufficient southing is made to allow you to fetch your port on the starboard tack. Both plans are very tedious, as it fre_ quently takes twenty days to beat up to Guayaquil, whilst six or seven days are an average passage down. From Panama Bay to the Westward. — If bound to the west- ward during the northers, a great deal of time may be saved by keeping close in-shore, and thus take advantage of them ; they will carry you as far as the Gulf of Nicoya. V/hen past the Morro Hermoso, * Papagayos * may be looked for, and with them a course should be steered for the Gulf of Tehuantepec, when it will depend on the port you are bound to, whether, after crossing the gulf by the aid of one of its gales, you should keep in or off shore. If bound for Acapulco, keep in, and beat up ; but if bound to the westward, you cannot do better than make a west course, as nearly all the winds will allow you : but as the in-shore winds are now under discussion, we will leave the consideration of the best means of reaching the trade-winds for a future occasion. The passage to the westward of Panama, during the rainy season, is a I 208 APPENDIX. most tedious affair, calms, squalls, contrary winds, and currents, accom- panied by a heavy swell, and extreme heat, as well as an atmosphere loaded with moisture and rain, are the daily accompaniments. It often occurs that 20 miles of westing are not made in a week, and it is only by the industrious use of every squall and slant of wind, that the passage can be made at all. Opinions are divided amongst the coasters as to the pro- priety of working to the southward and trying to get rid of the bad weather, or beating up within a moderate distance of the land. My experience would lead me to prefer the latter, as the strong winds and frequent squalls which so often occur near the land, sometimes allow a long leg to be made to the north-westward, while, farther off, this advan- tage is sacrificed for only a shade finer weather. General Observations respecting the Off-shore Winds. — With respect to the winds which prevail in the open ocean, the same general rules obtain in the Pacific, as are recognised throughout the rest of the globe, i. e., a north-eastern trade within the limits of the northern tropic, and a south-eastern within the southern ; also as to the prevalence of westerly winds when either to the northward or southward of those boundaries. There are, however, exceptions to these rules. Within the tropics, wherever large groups of islands are found, the trades are subject to great variations both in direction and force. Also to the northward of the tropic of Cancer, when bound from the Sandwich Islands for the American coast, there are many instances, during the spring and summer, of 45° or even 50° of north latitude being reached, before a westerly wind could be obtained. From the Galapagos Islands to Cape St. Lucas. — I have already alluded to the difficulty of getting to the westward from the Bay of Panama. The trade wind seems to possess no steady influence to the eastward of a line drawn from Cape St. Lucas, in 22° N., to the Gala- pagos Islands on the equator. Amongst these islands the south-eastern trade wind is steady during nine or ten months of the year, and it is only in January and February, and sometimes March, that th«y are interrupted by long calms, and occasional breezes north and north-west, but these are never of any strength. To the northward of them, the eastern limit of the trade seems to depend upon the time of the year. In the early part of April, I have found it between the parallels of 8° and 13° North, 900 to 1000 miles farther to the eastward than at the end of June ; and in the intermediate months, either more or less to the eastward as it was earlier or later in the season, but in no case that I have met with has a steady or regular trade been experienced till the above line has been reached. It is this circumstance, and the prevalence in the iniermediate space of westerly winds, calms, and contrary currents, that makes the passage from Panama to the westward, as far as this line, so tedious. I APPENDIX. 209 accom- )sphere t often )nly by ige can he pro- he bad 1. My ids and allow a advan- NDS. — le same the rest lorthern jvalence )f those ;hin the subject iward of for the summer, westerly already Bay of i to the le Gala- eastern is only irrupted lese are limit of rly part rth, 900 and in it was th has a as been mediate Ices the ious. I have been 40 days beating from the entrance of the bay, in 80° W., to the eastern edge of the trade, in 1 1 1° W., a distance of less than 2000 miles, or, on an average, about 40 miles per day. From the Meridian of Cape St. Lucas, Westward. — When once within the influence of the trades, a passage is easily made ei^mit this ill^ ok he winds ier, it is le north- westward, I coasters ar period BEARINGS AND DISTANCES, WITH THE VARIATION OF THE COMPASS, FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO MONTEREY, AND FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE COLUMBIA RIVER. POINTS. . True Bearings. Variation. Distance in Nautical Miles. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE SOUTH-1 WARD, AS FAR AS MONTEREY. Point Boneta to Point San Pedro Point San Pedro to Point Alio Nuevo .... Alio Nuevo to Santa Cruz Santa Cruz to Monterey FARALLONES DE LOS FRAIIiBS. S. Farallon to Point Boneta S. Farallon to N.W. Farallon S. Farallon to Point Reyes N.W. Farallon to Point Reyes N.W. Farallon to Point Boneta S. Farallon to Point Ano Nuevo FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE NORTHWARD. Point Boneta to Duxbury Reef Point Boneta to N.W, Farallon Point Boneta to S. Farallon Point Boneta to Point de los Reyes Point Reyes to Point Fornales Point Reyes to Bodega Head Point Reyes tx) Port Ross , . . CAFE MENDOCINO TO THE NORTH- WARD. Cape Mendocino to Blunt's Reef Cape Mendocino to False Cape False Mendocino to Eel River False Mendocino to Humboldt Bar False Mendocino to Trinidad Head Humboldt Bar to Trinidad Head S. 3° E. S. 11 E. S. 42 E. S. 30 E. N. 62 E. N. 38 W. N. 3 W. N. 11 E. N. 80 E. S. 62 E. N. 62 W. S. 80 W. S. 62 W. N. 61 w. N. 3 W. N. 5 W. N. 17 W. N. 80 W. N. 8 E. N. 33 E. N. 31 E. N. 20 E. N. 11 E. 15° 30' E. 16^ 30' E. 16 22J 20 22 28 25 17i 31 39 6J 31 28 30 13 17 34 m 4 16 23 38 16 232 BEARINGS AND DISTANCES, 8cc. — Continued. It Time Distance POINTS. Variation. ill Niiutical B earmgs. % Miles. l?eLi(ling's Rock to the Turtles •j. N. ir E. 45 E, 16° 30' E. 13 Reuding's Rock to the Klamath River , . 14 Redding's Rock to Port St. George N. 20 E. 22 Port St. George to Klamath River S. 16 E.- 18° E. 10 Cape St. George to N.W. end of reef .... N. 43 W. ' ■ Rogue's River Reef to Cape St. George Reef, S. W. extremity S 15 E. 38 Ewing Harbour to Rogue's River Reef, S.W, extremity S. 16 W, 17J Ewing Harbour to southern end of Orford Rt ef N. 61 W. 19^ E. 9 Cape Orford to southern extremity of Or- ford Reef S 37 W. "71 '3 Cape Orford to Coquille River N 18 E 20 Cocjuille River to Cape Arago N 3 E 14 Cape Arago to Kowes River E 5 N 20° 40' E. 6 Cape Arago to Umpqua River N 17 E 18 Umpqua Head to Cape Perpetua N. 14 E. 27 Cupe Perpetua (Q. end) to Alseya River . . N. 9 E. 28 / Iseya Uiver to Cape Foulweather N. 5 V. «i Foulweather to Yaquinna N. H fl 21 Yaquinna to Cape Lookout fSnt't'h 17 Cape Lookout to False Killamook N. 5" \^', 26 False Killamook to Killamook North. N. 3" W. n 17 Killamook Head to S. bar of Columbia . . Killamook Head to Cape Hancock (^Disap- pointment) . . . , N. 3 W. 21^ . I FINIS. J". »'. TIIOMS, PBINTEII, I'i, WAIIWICK 8*iUABB, LONDON. Distance ii> Niiiiticul Miles. 13 14 22 10 6 38 17.i y 7i 20 14 5 18 27 28 21 17 25 17 2U