IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) y. %° 1.0 II I.I 11.25 12.2 us u 2.0 im 1.4 — 6" V] /^ A^ w ^ '/ , !1C Sdeices Corporalion V 4^ §r\ :i>^ <^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14380 (716) 872-4503 '^t'^. '^.<^ ^ ^ Zi 6^ ^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliogrcphic Notes/Notes technique?! et bibliographiquee 1 t The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checited below. D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur n~| Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored und/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^e et/ou peiiicul^e Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes g^ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encra de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ D Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge IntArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certalnes pages blanches ajout6es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont pas M film6es. Additional comments:/ CommentairiM suppl6msntaires: L'Institut a microf ilmi le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les H6tails de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre unigj^iis du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la methods normale de filmage sont indiquto ci-dessous. n D E n Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes , Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur6es et/ou peliicuides Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dteolordes, tachetdes ou piqudes Pages detached/ Pages ditachies Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ Qualiti in^gsle de I'lmpression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel supplimentaire Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellsment obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 filmies ik nouveau de fagon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. 1 P f C b t 8 O fi s o T s T IV di ei hi ri! rs m This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est fiimt au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X / 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here hat been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library of the Public Archives of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract sprcifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or tne symbol y (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire fiimA fut reproduit grAce A la gAn«rokit6 de: La b.oliothdque des Archives publiques du Canada Les images suivantes ont «t« reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet« de l'exemplaire film6. et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimie sont fiim6s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d 'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont fiimis en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d 'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symboie — ► signifie "A SUIVRE", le symboie V signifie "FIN" Les cartes, planches, tabloaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmis d des taux de r6duction diffirents. Lorsque !e document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul ciichA, il est filmA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite. et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iliustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 _# •s: »»■'' VIEWS OF CANADA AND THK »!:-',*K':«j;;'i COLONISTS. ■# X ' We should look to tlmt great area cultivated by our own countrynieii in our colonial possession in North America — a country to which we are united by the closest relationship — a country which finds constant employ- ment for our surplus labourers — a country which still looks to England with feelings of affection — a country which oflFers a market for our manu factured goods — a country subject to no hostile tariff— which supports our shipping — which improves the condition of our fellow-countrjmen ' — a country which we may hold with signal benefit to ourselves, but in , ' which we cannot maintain our supremacy unless we are cemented to -. her by the closest bonds of affection as well as of interest.' Lonv STAyhz\ in the IIuusc 0/ Commons. Hj!' V VIEWS OF CANADA AKD THE COLONISTS: EMBRACING THE EXPERIENCE OF A RESIDENCE ; VIEWS OF THE PRESENT STATE, PROGRESS, AND PROSPECTS OF THE COLONY J WITH DETAILED AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR INTENDING EMIGRANTS. BY A FOUR YEARS' RESIDENT. r ' The finest Country [Uprer Canada] I ever knew*. Lord Sydenham. EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK. LONDON : LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMAN. DUBLIN : JOHN GUMMING. MDCCCXLIV. l-^Hj^ // Printed by A. .^- \n-. ij. w,;,sox, 105 South Biidge, Ediiiburifli. PREFACE. * Because of the uncertainty of information concern- ing our colonies,' remarks the writer* of one of the recent Atlas Prize Essays, * few emigrate till things are well-nigh desperate with them at home. And then they go so thoroughly ill-informed, that there is every reason to fear they will return in disgust.' The absence of sufficiently practical and detailed information regarding our colonies has indeed all along been seriously experienced ; and, by those well informed in the matter, is believed to be the chief cause which prevents a much more extended flow of colonisation. ^ Books of travels, in a great measure composed of hasty observations, generally speaking do not satisfy the keenly practical inquiries of the numbers natu- rally desirous of being acquainted with particular and detailed facts. Another class of works, the compila- tions from those books, are necessarily similarly de- ficient. A third class, being written by persons * The Rev. Joseph Angus, M.A. * PUKFACE. familiar with the facts presented, are the kind of works, which, if moderately comprehensive and faith- ful, may be considered to be the most practically useful ; and, in the absence of other means of infor- mation (as might perhaps be expected to be furnished by either the colonial or imperial Governments, or conjointly, regarding the actual and particular con- dition of our colonies — ^this description of information having now in this country become a matter of in- creasing moment) — such sources must prove among the best aids, as they are believed hitherto to have been, in carrying forward the work of peopling England's * noble openings for enterprise and capital.' The present publication is offered to the public as an humble attempt to add to the stock of general in- formation possessed in relation to one of our finest colonies ; and concerning which, in its various fa- miliar aspects, and progressively changing circum- stances and prospects, it is natural to suppose that every such attempt, in proportion to the variety and value of the facts, and presumed fidelity of the views presented, will be more or less acceptably received. In addition to the gratification likely to be derived by the general reader, there are large classes now in this country whom the subject particularly addresses. The numbers who have already made Canada their home, and have left behind them, among their rela- tions and acquaintances, a share of interest in the colony ; and the growing numbers, besides, naturally \ PREFACE. VU desirous of benefiting their position in life, and who l- Reserves— Free Government Settlements of Owen Sound, Ae.— Improved farms— Clearing Wild Land, .... Pages IM to ICJ. I'UKES OF LIVE STOCK, FARM RUILDINOS, AGRICULTURAL IMPLK- MENT.S, AND HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE, . . . Pages 163 to Ht4. PROFITS OF TILLAGE AND GRAZING. CiMt of Clearing Ten Acres of Timbered Land, and Profits of Farming Ist, 5J<1, and *l Years— Profits upon Grazing— Increase in Value of Stoek, Pages 104 to 1 an. TIIF. SURROUNDING DISTRICTS. The Talbot District— Extent of Population.. Cultivated Burfece.. Character of 8t>il.. Streams, Harbours, Resources, and general improvements .. The District of BrcK-k.. Towns of IngersoU and Woodstock. .Religious Bodies . . Outlets for Pnxluee. . Navigation on the Grand River.. The Huron District.. Fertile Character of Soil.. Town of Gwle- rlch, and River Maitland .. Progress of Colonii'ts in Township of Goderich.. Village of Stratford on River Avon. . Village of St Marj's on the Thames .. Statistics of District and Price of Land, ...... Pages lij8 to 174. NEW NORTHERN TERRITORY. Recent Visit to this part of Canada .. Proposal to open up and Settle the Territory. . Extent of Territory 8,000,000 Acres. .River Saugin.. Importance and general Charac- ter of Country, ...... Pages 175 to 177. THE WESTERN DISTRICT. Amhcrstburgh. .Scenery of the River Detroit. .Produce of Orchards. .Cultivation of To- bacco.. Sandwich and Windsor.. Historical Recollections.. Disturbances of 1837-38-3i> . . Banks of Lake St Clair and River Thames. .Chatham. . Moravian Village. . Banks of RiverSt Clair and Village of Samia, .... Pages 177 to 18n. THE OTHER PARTS OF THE GREAT PENINSULA. The District of Simcoe..The Home District. .City of Toronto. .The Distriet of Welling- ton.. The Gore District.. Towns of Hamilton, Drantford, Paris, Dundas, and Gait. . Review of the Extent and Importance of the Western Peninsula of Canada.. Amount and Pn>gres8 of Population . . Opinion of the late Lord Sydenham on this part of Ca- nada, ....... Pages 1><8 to 198. GENERAL VIEWS OF CANADA. ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE COLONY'S PRESENT CONDITION AND PROSPECTS. EXTENT, GENERAL ASPECT, POPULATION, AND RESOURCES OF THE COLONY. General Appearance of the Country.. River St Lawrence.. Cities of Quebec and Mon- treal. .Ascent of the St Lawrence to Kingston.. Ottawa Country. Kingston.. Lake Ontario and Bay of Quinte.. Niagara River. .Lakes Erie, St Clair, and Huron. .St #•' V XVI CONTENTS. Mary'H Chnnnsl and Ljike Huporirir..Goveminpnt of Canada.. Di viijion* nf Canada.. Progrt'M and ChuracUT of DistrlctJt.. Population and Amount of Cultivated Laml.. AmountH of Laml Oopuplcd and T'niK'Pupied, . U('i»ourcc«of Cniinda. . Wheat and Flour . .Exports of lS44..WorkinK of the Now Tariff. Provision Trade of Canada., Timber Trade.. FUhhiKa and Manufactures.. Employment of Uritl^h ijhlpplng. British and other Imports into Canada. .Uank», and Amount of Circulation, Pages IW to 221. NoTK;— .->tatl»tie» of DrltJsh .Shipping, . . . ... 221 STATEMENT OF THE AFFAIRS OF CANADA. Explanatorj' Remnrks on HUitement of Affairs.. Debt and Public Works of Canada.. Roads and Canals. .Wdland and Erie Canals .. Clergy Reserves.. Jesuits' Estatec, Huiiool, and Trinity Funds. . Public ilospltaltt and Lunatic Asylum, Pages 222 to 2af . INCOME AND EXPENDITURE OF CANADA. Income uf Canada for 1842.. Remarks on Income. Customs, Excise, anUGH THE INTERIOR. Information and Advice at New Y^ork . . Voyage up the Hudson . .Travelling from Al- bany.. Fares by Erie Canal and Railroad .. Travelling from Buflhlo .. Crossing into Cunadaat the Fallsof Ixiagaro, .... Pages 264 to 206. INTKODUCTION. Our country evidently appears to be approaching a period when the colonies are to exercise, more fully than at present, a ma- terially beneficial influence on its condition and prospects. The achievements of steam-navigation may be said to have brought those inviting territories of ours nearer to us by one- half the distance than they were formerly. Though start- ling the statement, it is in effect practically true, that our North American colonies are nearer to us now than Edin- burgh was to London eighty years ago. In 1763 the dis- tance between these cities was a journey of from twelve to sixteen days, performed once a-month in the only stage coach that was then in Scotland, with the exception of other two in Edinburgh, running between that city and Leith. In the present times, steam-ships havu traversed the distance be- tween the American continent and Europe within ten days ; and persons leaving London may reacn Canada now within the time that the monthly stage-coach performed the journey to Edinburgh in 1763. London newspapers, printed on the .3d of July 1844, and sent by the Hibemia steam-ship, which sailed from Liverpool on the following day, were received on the 20th of the same month at the town of Hamilton, Upper Canada, situated at the head of Lake Ontario, 800 miles into the interior of Canada, from the mouth of the St Lawrence, \ INTRODUCTION. And newspapers printed in that town of Canada on the 22d of July, and containing the news brought from England by the Hibemia, reached Liverpool on the 13th, and were received, and read in Edinburgh on the 15th August. One great tendency of this closer intercourse must be to make our colonies more as connected parts of the empire, and the co- lonists to feel less as colonists than fellow-inhabitants, bound by the same ties of common government and laws, modes of thought, and sympathies. The colonies of England — these ' noble openings' — under such influences, cannot long remain so apart as they now do ; but must become, with the more fa- miliar knowledge of them, which growing intercourse brings, and with the flowings of a teeming population naturally follow- ing — the most attractive fields for England's enterprise, occu- pied and cultivated for the most solid advantages, and the strengthening and extension of her power for the purposes of good. But how limited our acquaintance, as yet, with even our nearest and most important colony ! How many are there who entertain little else than certain vague notions respecting Canada, associating the climate, general appear- ance, social condition, towns, houses, and style of comforts of the country, with various degrees of exaggeration, all more or less so removed from exact truth, that the most of persons who proceed from Britain, and experience a residence in Canada, find it very unlike the country in many important respects which it is generally represented to be — being much more comfortable and home-like in its principal settlements and towns than they ever anticipated. The people of this country have had little opportunity of being made familiarly acquainted with the evidences presenting themselves from time to time of the silent steady progress the colony is making — of the settlements which a few years ago were comparative wil- derness becoming changed to busy and smiling scenes of ■ ^ INTRODUCTION. cultivntion — s-pots where only forests* stood hocoming the sites of thriving vilhigos — and viUages becoming chan}.'ed to large and luxurious towns. Within the last ten years particularly, such have been prominent evidences of the progress of Canada. lu IS'.V2 the population of Upper Canada amounted to a little over 276,000, and it now has reached above 500,000, or about a fifth of the population of Scotland ; and in 184"J the extent of its cultivated surface (1,701,000 acres) exceeded a third of the cultivated surface of Scotland. Montreal, the present capital of Canada, and the chief seat of the colony's commerce, from being a town about the size of Perth in Scotland in ! 325, has so increased sinee then as to be now more than double the size of Perth, by above 4000 inhabitants. The population of Montreal in 1825 was 22,000, and by the census of the present year it contained 44,090. Toronto in Upper Canada, which was little more than a village in 1830, has now a population of about 20,000, with spacious and luxurious shops, gas-lighted and paved streets, thirteen churches and chapels, eight or ten newspapers, and returning upon its assessment rolls above 200 four-wheeled open and close carriages, gigs, and pleasure waggons — and it is only the other day that a Scottish Presby- terian congregation in Toronto gave an acceptable call to a comfortably placed clergyman in one of the large towns of Scotland, and guaranteed him an amount of stipend nearly as high as is received by the clergy of the city of Edinburgh, The total revenue of the colony, including Upper and Lower Canada, was in 1834 a little over £265,000, and in 1842 the revenue of the colony, from Customs alone, derived from duties upon manufactured and other goods, imported chiefly from Bri- tain and the United States, amounted just to about the total revenue of 1834, derived from all the various sources, including Excise, Territorial, Public Works, and other departments. The city of Toronto alone, collected in 1843 an amount of Cus- toms duties upon importations from the United States just about double the total amount of such duties collected in the INTr.ODUdlON. whole of Upper Canada in 1834 — and under a tariff impoMinj^ greatly reduced rates of duties. Those facts, and the state and propress of things of which they are an index, the people of this country are but imperfectly ac(juainted with. And it is not more the towns of the colony, as may be believed — which especially, in a country like Ca- nada, are directly dependent upon surrounding general pros- l)erity — than the interior country parts, that the eridences of this progress present themselves. The following pages, to which the reader's notice is invited, are designed to afford some glimpses of the condition of an interior part of the colony, concerning which, although comprising one-half of the occupied, and allowedly the finest portion of Upper Ca- nada, our best sources of information afford but vague contra- dictory general statements. The great Western Peninsula of Canada, upon being first visited by the late Lord Sydenham, in the course of a tour which he performed through the colony in the capacity of Governor-General, in the autumn of 1840, so almost enraptured the practical and expanded mind of that statesman as to cause him to record respecting it:— * I am delighted to have seen this part of the country ; I mean the great district, nearly as large as Ireland, placed be- tween the three lakes — Erie, Ontario, and Huron. You can conceive nothing finer ! The most magnificent soil in the world — four feet of vegetable mould — a climate certainly the ])est in North America — the greater part of it admirably wa- tered. In a word, there is land enough and capabilities enough for some millions of people, and in one of the finest provinces in the world.'* -''^^-"^ This * great district/ however — this one-half of Upper Canada — already having a cultivated surface exceeding a seventh part * Extract from rdvate Letter— Memoir of the Life of Lord Sydenham. London, 1843. " '"''•- -\ INTRODUCTION. 5 of the cultivated siirfiice of Scotland, with ahout a twelfth part of Srotland'rt population — and concerning which it is most natural to suppose that the people of this country should desire to be ac(juainted — is as yet so imperfectly known, that when turn- ing to consult one of the latest and most detailed accounts of Canada, and recognised as an authority, the inquirer reads those hasty chilling remarks :— ' Under the influence of vague and speculative hopes, they (a number of opulent settlers] have made it their ambition to plunge into the extreme west and the heart of the bnsh, and seemed to have imagined that the farther they placed themselves beyond every vestige of culture and civilisation, the greater advantages did they secure. A letter in 18.'i4 states that almost all the emigrants of capital were hasten- ing to the London district, a territory perhaps the most de- cidedly woodland of any in Canada. Settlers in these wilds encounter peculiar and extreme hardships, being deprived of every accommodation to which they had been accustomed, sometimes even in want of common necessaries^ and in danger of starvation.'* ♦ Edinburgh Cabinet Library, Account of British America, vol. iii. p. lOfi. Note.— The grave defects existing in the most popular worlts circu- lating in Britain respecting Canada, are prominently apparent to those acquainted with the colony. Not to speak of the absurd views entertained regarding the social state, climate, and other important particulars, two illustrations of this imperfect knowledge of the colony from matters of fact may be brought forward— not, however, that they should in the least degree reflect discredit upon the parties, who, desirous of diffusing information, circulate such matter unknowing it to be faulty. In a publication upon Canada, forming part of a deservedly popular series, bearing the date of 1S42, it is stated respecting Montreal, the present capital of Canada, that ' There are no wharfs, and the ships and steamboats sail close to the :|l C I NT ROD LCT ION. The district so Jiiectly spoken of happens to he the very ont- Helected, helongin^ to the Western Peninsula of Canada, for the purpose of presenting a specimen or miniature view of tht country, and the Htatements given heinp hased on ortieial sta- tistical information, and the view presented bein^ sketched from the experience of a four years' residence, an opportunity is af- forded to incpiirers satisfying themselves of the truth of the observation, that in this country we know far too little of Canada. The Western Peninsula of Canada, stretching westward from Toronto, near the upper extremityof Lake Ontario, and having Lake Erie forming its southern boundary, and the Rivers De- troit and St Clair, and the Lakes St Clair and Huron its west- ern and northern boundary — comprises of occupied territory nine districts and part of a tenth; in all, 144 townships, of the eighteen districts, and 273 townships into which Upper Canada is at present divided. Those districts of the peninsula, each embracing from six to twenty-six townships, and each townshiji consisting of 61,600 acres, are all more or less separately glanced at in such a manner as to present within limited space much desirable information. Besidee this occupied portion of the region — of about 9,000,000 acres — a large and important bank of the river, where there is deep water.* Now, to lony ayo as 1832, a Ihw. of heauti/ul and substantial stone-tvhar/s was begun to be built along the St Lawrence in front of the town, and the harbour of Montreal is believed to be equal, if not superior, to any in North America ! The same account of Canada, alluding to the fine public edi- fices of the city of Quebec, mentions among the rest the Castle of St Louis being • a prominent object on the summit of the rocl<:.' Now, the Castle of St Louis — this certainly once promineut and celebrated building, long the residence of governors — was wholly burned ^ the ground in the year 1834, and has never been rebuilt! Among the latest travellers in Ca- nada, Mr Buckingham may be mentioned as having fallen into several awkward errors. \ INTIlOliUCTlON. n * •rritory, nmnuntinp; to 2,000,000 acro^, lyinf? alonpf the en«tein tore of Lake Huron, and Mouth of tho (jeorgiun Bay, han pceived what ulij^ht notice the information yet posneHHcd re- tarding it afforded This territory, which in as yet almost rholly unoccupied, has been recently visited, and under.Htood to ^e (Dntemplatcd hy Ciovornment to be Hoon set apart and opened ip by roads for settlement. The abundance «)f room there is, lowever, in the already constituted districtii of the peninsula br the Howings of emij,i[ration, however large, for numherH of rears to come, may be inferred from the fact of there being )nly about 754,000 acres as yet under cultivation, a large nnount, indeed, taking into account the period of settle- iient, and tho circumstances of the settlers ; but small com- )ared to the several millions of acres yet to cultivate, and •very one of which, without exception, perhaps, susceptible )f -cultivation. Before here taking leave of the reader, in order to invite his rthcr attention to the sketch of the interesting district selected for affording fuller and more familiar views respecting the co- onists, and of the ordinary appearances in regard to scenery nd modes of life presented in this part of the colony — it may e as well, injustice to the whole subject of the important por- ion of Canada thus introduced, to refer to an acknowledged igh authority as to the particular character of its soil and limate. M. Bouchette was Surveyor- General of Lower ■anada, and was employed olTicially on aninspecti" tour over he province. * The whole tract,' says Bouchette, in his work on the Bri- isb Dominions* in North America, 'is alluvial in its formation, d chiefly consists of a stratum of black and sometimes yellow loam ; above which is deposited, when in a state of nature, a ich and deep vegetable mould, the substratum beneath the •ed of loam being generally a tenacious grey or blue clay, Ian V '■•■ '!i 8 INTRODUCTION. which in some parts appears at the surface, and, intermixed with sand, con"" -itute** the super-soil.' 'The forests are remarkable for the sturdy growth, the variety, and the rich foliage of their trees. Out of the long list of their different species, the following may be selected as being of most fre- quent occurrence : maple, beech, oak, basswood, ash, elm, hickory, walnut, butternut, chestnut, cherry, birch, cedar, and pine, and their several varieties.' — Regarding climate, the same authority observes, * Situated between the parallels of 42 deg. and 45 deg. 30 min. north latitude, it has the advantage of extending further south than any portion of the British North American possessions, and hence enjoys in an eminent de- gree a superior fertiliity of soil and milder temperature of cli- mate.' 'ill !! y.:^:: - ^ /., ■» SKETCH OF A DISTRICT IN CANADA. ■'RKSENTING A MIMATItrE AND FAMILIAR VIEW OF THE COUNTRY WITH ITS FARMS AND TOWNS. • K' lili f I! SKETCH OF A DISTRICT IN CANADA. FraST LETTER. Extent of the Old and Present Limits of the London District — Progress and Present State of Settlement — The Inhabitants, the Countries of their Origin, and their lleligious Professions — The Coloured (African) Popu- lation, their Condition and Behaviour in Canada — The Indians, Oneidas, Munceys, ar, ' Chippewas in the District — Ilecent Settlement of Onei- das from the Mohawk Valley, United States — State of Civilisation among them~-Occux>ations, Manners, au^ ress. NoTKS : — Oneida Indians, and their * Castle' in the Mohawk Valley — Runaway Slaves — Amherstburgh, their chief refuge in Canada. London^ Canada^ 1843. I WILL now write you something about our London here. This central portion of the great western peninsula of Canada, though universally acknowledged to be the finest part of the province, and mentioned in books treating of the country as being » the garden-land of Canada,' has, as you are aware, been very little visited by travellers ; and I know of no pub- lication to which 1 can refer you for any detailed account of this important and interesting district of country. it X 10 POPULATIOX. ! ! ii!il h ' i 1 The old limits of the London district, which have been altered within the last seven years, embraced three counties, Middle- sex, Oxford, and Norfolk, besides the large block of land known as the Huron tract — the whole comprising fifty townships, covering a surface of 3204 square miles, or about a tenth of the size of all Scotland, including the Orkney, Shetland, and Western Islands, and which now show upon the assessor's rolls upwards of one million and a quarter of occupied acres — being more than five times the number of acres in all Mid-Lothian, cultivated, uncultivated, and uncultivable to- gether. This great extent of land cuts quite through the centre of the rich peninsula formed by the Lakes Ontario, Erie, St. Clair, and Huron, and stretches from the banks of Lake Erie to the southern shore of Lake Huron. The soils are of great variety, from the light and stronger brown sand, with its oak or pine, lying chiefly along the shores of Lake Erie and in spots near the rivers, to the heavier clay and rich black loams, with their maple, beech, and other hard woods in the interior. In 1035 this district, not including the Huron tract, had a population of 39,4G8, possessing 143,061 acres of cultivated land, 4963 horses, and 13,720 milch cows ; and the latest published official returns show that in 1841 there were 62,397 inhabitants, possessing 213,516 cultivated acres, 8609 horses, and 19,831 milch cows — being an increase since 1835 of 12,829 inhabitants, 70,455 cultivated acres, 3646 horses, and 6111 milch cows. Comparing the population in 1832, which was 28,841, with that of 1842, estimated at about 67,000, this part of Canada appears to have doubled its population within ten years. This is the London district, as it is still laid down in books professing to give an account of the country. But a change took place some time since. ' - *' ' The old limits of the London district havi been gradually reduced with the increase of population, as the distance, in instances above 60 miles, for jurors and others attending the .iH \ \ STATE OF SETTLEMENT. 11 mce, ID courts and other business in the district towns, became two inconvenient. The county of Norfolk, having seven townships, lying east and south of London, was the first disjoined, and erected into what is now the Talbot district — with its district-town of Sim- coe, distant about seven miles from P "t Dover on Lake Erie. The county of Oxford, with ten townships lying east of London, was about four years ago erected into the district of Brock, having Woodstock for its district town. More recently (about two years ago), the Huron tract, with eighteen town- ships, and having Goderich for its chief town, which is sixty miles north of London on Lake Huron, was erected into the district of Huron ; and boasts of one of the finest soils to be found perhaps in Canada. What now constitutes the London district is the remaining third county of Middlesex, having fifteen townships, and Lon- don — our London on the Thames — as its district town. The population of these townships in 1835 was 21,158, possessing 70,033 cultivated acres, and the assessed valuation of land and other property was £265,351 currency, or about £212,000 sterling. [Cultivated land is valued at 20s. currency, or about 16s. sterling, and wild land at about 3s. 3d. sterling an acre — considerably under real value.] In 1841 the population was 27,050, possessing 101,686 cultivated acres, the valuation of which and other property exceeded £294,000 sterling — which shows an increase, during the six years, of inhabitants about 6000, cultivated land 31,553 acres, and of assessed property £82,000. I have before me a copy of the 'inpublished official returns of the district for 1842, to be laid before the Provincial Parlia- ment at the ensuing session ; and as this document presents a variety of curious details, some of which, I doubt not, you would feel interested in knowing, 1 will subjoin a few. First, as regards the kind of population composing the district of London, there are — liilihi liill m 12 KIND OF POPULATION. Natives of EDgland, . t , . 2828 .... Scotland, . . 2»7D .... Ireland, . i 3085 .... Canada, 18,200 Do., of French origin, 71 United States, , 2225 .... Continent of Europe, • 2<;<) Total population (1845', The various religious sects number chiefly — 29,657 Church of Englana, . * C320 .... Scotland, . • 41<>9 .... Rome, . • 1222 British Wesleyan Methodists, 1508 Canadian do. do. « 1372 Episcopal do. do. 1475 Presbyterians not in connection with tlie Churcli of Scotland, 1769 Congregationalists, . , . 585 Baptists and Anabaptists, . • 3279 Other sects, . « i » 583 The remainder are made up of other denominations ; as mem- bers of the Dutch Reformed Church, Moravians, Menonists, and Mormons— of which last there are only nine persons resid- ing in one tovrnship. I may, however, remark, that implicit dependence is not always placed on this department of the cenF"8, errors being suspected to occur. The population con- nected with the Churches of England, Scotland, and Rome, and the seceders from the Church of Scotland and other Presbyte- rians, and also the Methodists and Baptists, are pretty fairly divided throughout the district. The other sects chiefly reside together in various localities. Of the African, or coloured population, as they are generally called, who are chiefly, if not altogether, from the United States, and a considerable portion of them liberated or run- away slaves, there are 223 males, and 77 females— a proportion which of itself tells something of the manner of their coming ^"' -■-" S ", I' Al COLOURED rOPULATIOX. 13 here. Having had little or no opportunitiea of paining even the first elements of education or correct moral training, the greater part of these people find only employment of the most inferior kind. Those who have not been able to procure land live about the towns, generally gaining a subsistence by cut- ting wood for fuel. There are, indeed, honourable exceptions, evincing enterprise, intelligence, and respectability -yet much prejudice exists regarding the coloured man even in Canada. But you in Britain, I think, too harshly condemn this preju- dice, both as shown in the United States and here, not under- standing sufficiently the various points of this question of dif- ference. Do not think from this, however, I am one of the prejudiced. I find them generally civil and respectful, and any differences they may have I am more inclined to pal- liate than blame them for, and I wonder only they are not worse. The Indians, of whom there are two distinct settlements in the district about twenty miles from London upon the banks of the Thames, are not, I believe, included in the census. One of these settlements forms part of the tribe of Oneidas, who emigrated about three years ago from the Mohawk Valley in the United Sates, and purchased this large tract they noiv pos- sess on the Thames. Many of them have built comfortable houses, and are beginning to raise around them cultivated fields. A division of this tribe emigrated to Green Bay, on Lake Michigan, in the United States, but I believe the greater number came to Canada. Some part of the tribe yet remaining in the Mohawk Valley are expected, I have heard, to join the party of their brethren on the Thames, on completing the ar- rangements in the disposal of their lands. Then the whole tribe will have parted with their old inheritance there, where they had long grown their maize and smoked their calumet, to be pushed westward by still another sweep of the tide of advancing civilisation. You remember it is one of those Onei- das that Campbell finely brings into his poem of ' Gertrude of i >j^ \ It ONEIDA INDIANS. :! Wyoming,' where the scene is laid in the valley of the Sus- quehanna:— • Antl summer wns tlie tide, and sweet the hour, When siro and daughter saw, with fleet descent, An Indian from liis hark approach their hower. Of husliined linih and swarthy lineament ; The red wild featiiors on his hrow were hlent, And bracelets hound the arm that helped to light A hoy, who seem'd, as he beside him went, Of C hristian vesture and complexion bright, Led by his dusky guide, like morning brought by night.' These Oneidas on the Thames are many of them stately looking men, staid almost to cold haughtiness in their de- meanour, reserved in their manner and conversation, using few vrords, which, with their erect manly hearing, lustrous black eye, and browned complexion, impart to the?e best speci- mens of the tribe a striking dignity. The females are fairer in their complexion — more so than the most of Indian women in Canada — the features less strongly marked — in make lighter yet robust, manners soft and simple to extreme, having anarch- elyness at times, and subdued smile, or light clear luugh, espe- cially when together, and delighting to parry all attempts to lead them into talk. Though few can use English like the men, who mostly have it broken, and also sparingly use it, even those of the women who can, incline rather to their natu- ral shyness and reserve. Their dress is a blanket, or square of blue broad cloth, worn as a shawl ; a printed cotton short- gown of showy pattern, falling loosely a little below the waist ; a petticoat of dark blue or green cloth, reaching only low enough fully to show their pantelets or leggins of like cloth or colour, fitting close upon the ankle, and embroidered down the out-seam upon a stripe of lively green or scarlet silk, with varied coloured beads. They usually have no covering on their heads ; their jetty black hair is simply braided in front, and made to lie evenly down behind, smooth and glossy ; and \:^M INDIAN SETTLEMENTS. 10 their blanket, or cloth shawl, broupjht fully up to the ueck, is wrapped lightly around, and not unfre(|ucntly diMplaying a well-rounded form. You have here a little sketch of an In- dian belle. You may fancy, additionally, rather small hands with lots of silver rings, and small feet tightly fitted with dressed deer-skin moccasins, neatly made by themselves, with showy silk binding and bead embroidery. Some, too, like our own aspiring fair etjuestrians, carry their head beneath a gen- tleman's beaver, and ' all around their hat' rows of light silver ornaments. These specimens of the Oneidas I have alluded to are the more respectable of the tribe ; there are others tawdry and dirty enough, though, I should say that, as a whole, they are amongst the most orderly and comfortable-looking Indians living in the settled parts of Canada. These Oneidas Hve on the south side of the river, where there are sloping and high binks heavily timbered, and a rich soil. Opposite to them, commencing in a gentle valley, then rising on a high steep bank, is the settlement of some other Indian tribes, the Munceys and Chippewas, in their old village of Munceytown. They have here a large tract of the best of land, with several good farms and houses ; their missionary station, with chapel, school, and preacher's residence. Their preacher is himself an Indian, of respectable attainments in knowledge, and of whom, I daresay, you have heard. He is well known as Peter Jones, who, upon one, if not two occa- sions, when he went to England, had the honour of being pre- sented to her Majesty. He delights frequently to revert to this honour, and relates v/ith extreme minuteness and amusing simplicity the details of the ceremony ; the humour with which he does this forming a singular contrast to his general austere and dignified bearing. Mr Jones is esteemed as an excellent man, has done much good among the Indians, and exerts great influence over their conduct and habits. Both tribes, Oneidas and Munceys, though not to be called civilised, are nevertheless wonderfully regular in their habits, perfectly inof- ^1 IG INDIAN HUNTERS. W..I fensive, and arc never known to show the least signs of the savage character formerly attributed to them. At the hunting season some of the more restless, indeed, set off to the most unfrequented parts of the woods, and, during the snow and frost of winter, encamp for weeks till they have gathered their sleigh- load of deer skins and venison — the latter being preserved by the hard frost. "When packing up their slender camp, and driven by their small poorly-fed horses, but as hardy as them- selve", they may be seen moving into London in high spirits to dispose of their capture. The wives and children usually ac- company them, and several shaggy, ugly, and lean, but sharp- looking dogs — all which, with blankets, kettles, and other camp utensils, are bundled together in the sleigh. The venison they often sell exceedingly low ; I have seen it bought for 2d. and even Id. a-pound, and our Canadian London is generally plen- tifully supplied with it during winter. But I must close with the Indians now. Respecting their numbers in the London district, in these two settlements on the Thames, quite off all main roads, and removed from other set- tlers, I can only make a rough estimate, and think there may be somewhere about a thousand — the Oneidas numbering the most. 't Having sketched to you this district, so far as regards its size, extent of cultivation, amount and increase of population and property, the various countries whence the inhabitants come, and the religious beliefs they profess, together with a slight notice of the coloured people and Indians, forming, you per- ceive, a small and isolated proportion, I must now thiiik of clos- ing this letter. In my next I will give you some statements respecting the kinds, qualities, and quantities of the crops raised in the district last year. Also the amounts and kinds of live stock, and of the products of miscellaneous industry, as domes- tic cloth, maple sugar, and the like ; so that with this, and other information of a substantial and accurate description, yourself and friends may be able to form a pretty correct opinion re- N NOTES. 17 specting this district, which may he tftkcn M n specimen of the rnpahilities of Ciuiada, and the condition of the Bettlew. ^^^>s^^^>^r^>^^^»^» ^^^»^^^*^»^ * NOTES. The Ovrida Iivdianb. > The Northern Traveller,' a work published at New York in 1826, in describing the route along the Erie Canal, has the following notice of the tri))e of Oneldaa, and their residence in the valley of the Mohawk. * Oneida Castle,' it may be mentioned, is situated between the towns of Vtica and Hyracuse, 140 miles west of Albany :— • Onkida CA8TLK is a village on the confines of a tract of reserved land belonging to the Indians of the Oneida nation. The principal re- sidences of most of the Indians in this part of the country were for- merly fortified in a manner corresponding with tlieir ideas of warfare, and hence the name of castle attached to this village. ' The Oneidns were one of the original Five Nations, which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of the state of New York. The best and most interesting account of them will be found in Colden's history* to which valuable work the curious reader is referred. They formerly resided, says that author, on the shores of the St Lawrence, near where Montreal now stands ; but, being driven from their country by the Adi- rondacks, a powerful and warlike nation, wandered towards the south- west, and settled along the lakes of New York, where they now live. This occurred before the arrival of any Europeans in this part of the continent, and when the French came to Quebec, in 1G03, they held their present n})0de. On the St Lawrence they had been cultivators of the ground, but, after their expulsion, they turned their attention to warlike deeds witli 80 much success, that they finally triumphed over their enemies the Adiron- dacks, and almost exterminated them. Their power and influence, at the time of the settlement of New York and New England, were extended far and wide. They held the Delawares in subjection in Pennsylvania and Delaware ; the Cherokees in South Carolina sought their friendship ; and all the country between the Hudson and Connecticut rivers was tri- butary to them. They must have been at that time extremely numerous. But since then their decrease has been great ; for, besides the losses they I. ^ '■" lii i|iiH!i 18 NOTES. Ii!i ,:| iMll hnvo liustained in wars, and tho discnscs brought upon tlicni liy civi1iscu' on a hi(jh hill. Many of them were idolaters until within u short time ; but, a few years ago, the nation renounced their ancient superstitious rites, and declared in favour of Christianity. ' Hrothertown and Stoclibridgo are two villages, a few miles south- easterly, situated on part of the Old Oneida reservation, granted to some of their scattered Indian brethren from Pennsylvania and New England, New Stocltbridgo, until recently, was the residence of the Stockbridge tribe, who came by un invitation from the Oneidas some years ago. They had Christian ministers among them long before they removed from Stockbridge in :dn.ssachusetts. Most of them now reside at Green Hay, on land given thciu by the Menominies, a nation with whom they are on the most friendly terms, and are adopting, to a good extent, the arts of civilised lift. They have invited the Oneidos to join them. The Brother- town Indians have been collected from all the remnants of tribes in New England and Long Island, and practise comparatively few of the Indian customs.' Runaway Slaves. * I recognised in one of the waiters of the hotel an active and rather intelligent coloured man, partly white, whom I had met in the summer of 1841 at Amherstburgh — a town famed as the great landing-placo and itfylum for runaway slaves from the ac^acent states. This indiYidual ■-,■.-, NOTES, 10 C^'' WAN then ongn/9;o(l completing liifi tlutiea of ' ttlnvo i>llot' to a bard of four g(*0(l lookingi rtUliur well droxHvtl, young men, who, tlirotigli the iustru* mcntAlity of tlils * pilot,' hatl Just efTuctoil their oscapo from tliclr • pro- pHotor,* a Dr (} , of Marvlaml I think. Tlasc young men hail be«n nniNicians, conipo.ting nn InHtnnnuntal hand, employed In n public teu> girdon belonging to Dr (•. Tho band waH oeonsionally * hired out,' when not reiptlrod In the garden, and it wn.. 1>r (»., it Heems, liad closely pursued • hlH proppity,' as it was only a day or .so after tho touching of our hoa-ited ground which chnngos sUivcit to ttuii, that lio landed on tho Am- hentl)urgh wharf from nn American Nteani-boat, Inconsolable for liis losst which hu eiitimated at ' some thou.sanils of dollars.' The American boat layabout two day.s at Amherstburgh, ready, If l)y any means the run- aways could have been got aboard, to carry thein oft'. So mucli was re- trieved by tbei)ur8uit, that, through persuasive means, the Dr went away will; ono of hi.s « ihnr bot/i,' an he indulged In calling them while iujplor- ing them with tears to return. Some week.s after, another of them was taken Itack, and conveyed to Dr (J. by » extent as would much surprise ycu — I know it would ■" r j ishire far- mers, who pay so commendable attention to the general com- fort, cleanliness, and food of their milch cows. The too common neglect with regard to the shelter and supply of pre- pared food in winter for the cow here, would cause these best of dairy-farmers to inquire how cows kept thus could be worth keeping at all. He would say, I am sure, that his own cows kept in such a manner, instead of a source of profit, would be a dead loss. Nevertheless, we must be cautious where we lay blame, and avoid the sweeping censures the enterprise of the people of Canada have had at the hands of post-haste travrll^ri and superficial observers of the state of things in this cc. jr . We have no market, uch as Ayrshire has, to excite em-ili ;» i and competition among producers to the furthest possible poir.t. Nor have we as yet, in comparison to the United States (so fre- quently put forward), the proportion of populous and wealthy cities, with old-established and completely organised channels of communication and intercourse. This country is young, and imperfectly known ; yet, doubling its population in about half the time of the United States — in course of some litr i time longer, '^ben its capabilities are fuller into notice, auu om- munication and intercourse more developed for its markets, N '< 41 CONriTION OF THE SETTLERS. 23 :anada may give little opportunity for even the most superfi- cial comparisons. E*'en novr, though the people by no means joast of their wealth, let us look, for instance, at the statistics )f this London district. There exists real property to the ex- tent that were every man. woman, and child in the district to lave a fair division, they would have nearly two cattle and ,'o sheep a-piece ; also four acres of cultivated land, and a lorse among every four. Or say, for every family consisting )i four persons, there would be between six and eight cattle, the same number of sheep, one horse, and sixteen cultivated [acres. And let it be kept in mind (and in this, perhaps, con- fsists the main value of the illustration), that this real property [has arisen by manual industry, chiefly within a space of time ] allotted to a single generation. I do not overlook the objec- ition which may be stated to this, that these district share- holders would, as a matter to be expected, become the less fortunate holders of shares of the farmer's debts. As regards this, what of these exists are chiefly owing, I have the con\ic- tion, within the district, and therefore among the inhabitants ; tliCmselves. What is owing to the merchants for British and and other goods, deducting what the merchants themselves i possess in real property, may be met by other property, which, in buildings and other substantial shapes, are excepted from our 'division scheme. Another object for having introduced J this view is, that you may have a familiar idea of the general comfort which you might suppose should exist in this state of a country. Other statistics, which I will give you as we go along, will farther illustrate the existing state of things here. The horses of this country are, I think, better looking and more active, though not so large, as your work-horses in Eng- land or Scotland — more like your carriage -horses in make and spirit, and are besides very tractable and good natured. They are capable of undergoing great fatigue and hardship in longjoumeys and bad roads. The four-wheeled waggons we use instead of carts allow them scope for their active and mettle spirit. "With *;-l ■ish^'l i tW 'i' ;■■','«■ , X i*""- „. K r ^ 'Y <■-' 'f\ >■■- v t: ^'*, ' K e ,. I ' m ill I 24 PRICES OF STOCK NOTES. m ^ il! MP f ! '4 w ;ii! I m '11 ■• regard to sheep, we keep steadily improving the breeds, and can show fair specimens of various sorts, particularly I^eices- lers p-\A Southdowns, the latter of whinh are believed to thrive well in Canada- The price of sheep here is from 49. for common, to IGs., and even as high as L.2, for best breeds. Work-horses, L.8 to L.IO ; milch cows, L.2, 15s. to L.4 ; good oxen may be stated at L.12 a-yoke. But information grows as I proceed faster uian I had thought it would ere I began writing to you ; and, rather than tire you with long letters, I will reserve for my next other items of wealth and domestic industry of the inhabitants of " district. NOTES. Port Stanley. ' Port Stanley is beautifully situated at the mouth of Kettle Creek, which is the outlet of the finest grain country on Lake Erie, and is the port at which are entered all goods for Talbot Street, twenty miles east and west of it, for St Thomas, London, Delaware, and the adjacent coun- tiiae, and wh^n completed as a harbour, with a plank road to London, may be expected to yield three times the revenue it has ever yet produced. The amount of the collections at this port during the last three years is as follows :— In 1840, L.454, 9s. 9d. ; in 1841, L.829, 6s. 8d. ; in 1842, L.505, lis. ; but, under the management of the new collector, Mr Richard Smith, and with an improved harbour, I have no doubt tho amount will b« doubled next year. Mr S. has collected L.834 during the last quarter, nearly double the whole sum in lS^.'-~Cominitsion€r of Cus- toms' Report, Oct. 27, 1843. [The above collections of duties on imports from the United States' are stated in provincial currency, which roughly may be reduced to sterling by deducting a llfth. The guinea is rated m Canada at 248. 4d. currency. The oxact rule to redaoe this eurrency into sterBng, is to mtiltiply by 60 and divide by 73. To convert sterling into comncy add 1-Mh to the sterling amount, and l-12th to the l-5th.] N \ KOTES. 2S Climatb. ' The climate of tipper Canada 13 very changeable, hut certainly pecu- liarly healthy. Out of two regiments now stationed at London, only six men are in hospital.' — Emigration Commissionert' Information, 1842, The subject of climate being of importance, and generally much mis- understood in Britain, the opinions of one or two other authorities, with remarks, are subjoined. Joseph Bouchette, Esq., a native of Canada, who held the post of Sur- veyor General of Lower Canada, and whose elaborate and expensive work on the British dominions in North America, published in two vol- umes, folio, London, 18.31, is considered a chief authority, thus writes regarding the climate of his native country. He may, perhaps, be over- enthusiastic in its favour, for estimating strictly the climate of the greater portion of North Americ;*,, and the estimate may extend in some degree to Canada, its tendency, though it may not be immediate, is considered to impair, in some respects, rather than sustain or improve the race of inhabitants from the British islands. T)ie more equable and moist climate of Britain, preserved, in a great measure, by the surrounding ocean, may be believed to be more conducive to comfort at least, and also both to mental and bodily energy, than the more dry, and in some degree parch- ing climate of America. We do not see so frequently the fresh healthful glow of countenance there ; but, on the other hand, the inhabitants, those of Canada at least, are believed to be more exempt from colds and other diseases, frequently produced by the raw damp atmosphere and keen easterly winds more prevalent in Britain. With this qualification, which we have thought it proper to give, we quote the opinion of Bouchette : — ' In point of salubrity no clim&te in the world can perhaps be found to exceed that of Canada, which is not only a sti-anger naturally to contagious disorders, or fatal epidemics, but extremely conducive to lon- ge\1ty. In the early periods of the settlement of the upper province the fever and ague were indeed prevalent ; but, as the cause of this local af- fection was gradually removed by the draining of marshes in the progress of cultivation, ii has almost entirely disappeared.' A Goverament Report, which was laid before a select committee of the House of C ommons in 1823, thus estimates the climate of Upper Canada :— ' The climate of Upper Canada is considerably milder than that of the lower province, and the winter shorter in the same proportion. In both these respects it improves as you proceed westward, — so much so, that although the frost generally commences in November at its eastern ex- tremity, and continues in that neighbourhood till the middle of April, ll rarely cpmmences on the shores of Lake Erie before Christmai, and r. .',4 ■ ' 1?^% 1} 1 i -i !.: Ml 'ilij III ... N 96 NOTES. usually disappears between the 25th of March and the 1st of April. On n comparison with the climate of Great Britain, the heat in the summer months is somewhat greater, but never oppressive, as it is always accom- panied with light breezes. There is less rain than in England, but it falls at more regular periods, generally in the spring and autumn. The winter cold, though it exceeds that of the British isles, is the less sensibly felt, in consequence of its dryness, and seldom continues intense for more than three days together, owing to the constant fluctuation of the wind between the north-west and south-west points.' [The winters in the vicinity of Lake Erie and westward, as along the Itivcr Detroit, though milder, and not so long as in other parts of Canada, the frosts may yet be said to set in earlier than mentioned in the above offi- cial statement. Snow requisite for sleighing does not generally fall until Christmas, or later ; the average depth of snow, in Upper Canada may be estimated between eighteen inches and two feet. The public reports of the inhabitants of townships bordering on Lake Erie, furnished to Mr Robert (iourlay for his valuable work regarding the early condition of Canada [two volumes, 8vo, London, 1822], generally agree in stating, that cattle are put out to pasture from the first to the middle of April, and stabled, or taken into yard, about the beginning of December. Sleighing lasts ge- nerally about two months, chiefly during January and February. Plough- ing commences about the middle of April, and reaping about the latter end of July, or beginning of August ; winter wheat is usually sown in September.] Canadian Wintkr. The Canadian winter, as the inhabitants in general employ them- selves, is hailed rather as the season of increased enjoyment, than dreaded as the same degree of cold would be in Europe. Agricul- tural labours being at this season suspended, the roads being hardened by the frost, and the rivei's and lakes in general covered with ice, the sleigh or the cariole is got ready all over the country, and now riding abroad upon business or pleasure commences ; visits are paid by friends or neighbours, opening both provinces to each other by a simultaneous movement ; so that the season is, 'jy this agreeable custom, often made to resemble rather a sort of busy jubilee than the period of dreary se- clusion that we should otherr \ \ NOTES. '27 the movement, and the great numbers of equipages and vehicles of all sorts to be met with on the ordinary roads, conveying persons similarly ea;ployed at this time of the year, this kind of pastime is universally re- presented as most agreeable.— TAe Canadat, hy A. Pichen, from Docu- menu furnished by the late John Gait, Eiq. • An Emigrant Farmer of Twenty Years' Experience' [in Lower Cii- iiada] thus records his opinion of the winter in that qnarter, where it is allowedly more severe than in the upper or western portion of the pro- vince : — ' The length and severity of our winters, of which so much f"" said, fonn generally the chief, if not the only argument ever attempted to be used against this part of the country ; and, to look only at the state of the thermometer and the depth of snow, it would appear rather a formi- dable one ; but the thermometer and our feelings do not unfrequently uieasure heat and cold, especially the latter, very differently. — I have actually suffered more from cold in England, while closely shut up in a mail coach, during <^ night in July, when the thermometer could not be so low as the freezing point, than ever I suffered in this country when it has been near zero : and this is easily accounted for by the fact, that, in the one case, the atmosphere was saturated with moisture, while in the other it was dry. From which it would appear that our feelings, as far an the cold is concerned, would correspond more nearly with the range of t)ie hydrometer than with that of the thermometer. As to the snow ; its depth and long continuance on the ground are such a convenience and benefit to tlie farmer, that he is anxious for its coming, and sorry when it leaves him ; it also acts as manure, and pulverises the land, superseding, in a great measure, the necessity of fallowing. Half at least of what is said about this climate, has no other foundation than what is to be found in the imagination and credulity of travellers, according to these, to be frost- bitten is of so frequent occurrence as to become the subject of a necessary and almost daily salutation, ' Sir, your nose is frozen !' I have been a farmer in this very severe climate upwards of twenty years, and have nevtr seen nor heard of a single instanfre of material sufifering from the cold. The length of our winter, too, has been much exaggerated : while now writing, this 29th November, 1827, my cattle are out grazing night and day, not yet having had any snow, and scarcely any frost : I have some times not been obliged to take them in or to feed them till a few day be- fore Christmas, though this is rarely the case : and by the middle of April we commence sowing our grain, so that our winter is, on an average, not of more than four or five months' duration, instead of six or seven, as people have been led to suppose.' — The Emigrant to North America. 'A/ ■4.- 1> I i m 'H ■ I :i| ! ! V tl IB i ii i N 28 NOTES. [In bringing together authorities in order to aid in correcting the verjr false notions prevalent in Urituin with regard to the climate of Canada, ojiportunity is liure tiil^en to recommend to those interested, and who may not have yet perused the really useful book of the emigrant farmer quoted abovo. It is a cheap publication, and will be found useful as sketching the experience of a settler's life in Lower Canada. It shows what may be accomplished by well-directed industry, even in that part of Canada gene- rally considered to be unfavourable for agricultural operations. Some shrewd general remarks respecting Upper Canada, from letters of an Ayrsliire emigrant, have latterly been incorporated with the publication.] Wintering Cattle. i ' The past has been one of the most severe winters ever felt in Canada ; and, from ]>resent appearances, we would suppose but little will be done on tlie land before the first of May, At this period last year [April 17] tlie thi-ush and the robin were delighting us with their melodies — the plough-boy was merrily whistling after his well trained pair of horses— the gardener was preparing his salad beds and transplanting fruit trees — and the markets were even supplied with the early description of vege- tiibles — and, in short, all nature was rejoicing at the return of spring, when she might clothe herself in her rich and variegated costumes. We are told by some of the oldest settlers that, about forty years ngo, the winter was as long and severe as the present, and the snow was fully as deep as at this period ; and yet grain and roots of every description ripened well. This has been unquestionably a severe winter on live stock. The com- mon practice among most of the Canadian farmers is to provide nothing but straw for their cattle and sheep for winter food ; and the cry which we hear so much about at present is only an echo of the old story of hard winters and scarcity of food for stock. At the first of February much stock were dying from the same cause ; up to that period the winter was mild, and the fault must be attached to the owners of such stock. Let the farmers seed down one-half their farms with cultivated grasses, and plan tiieir business so that they will have good fat pastures for their stock through the summer months, and an abundance of excellent hay and roots for winter feed ; and, instead of making ttrate the sole dependence, use it copiously for bedding the stock, to keep them from freezing to death. If farming will not pay in this way it will not in any other. One of the principal errors of the present mode of Canadian husbandry is this ; it requires pretty much all that is raised in the suuuner to winter through a few head of cattle, and to sustain the inmates of the household in com- fort—we may almost say idleness. If a species of employment could be introduced; from which the proceeds of the winter months could be turned \ NOTES. 29 to AS profitable nn account as summer, the business of n fanner might then be made respectable. The dressing of hemp and flux wotihl afford this employment ; and we hope that immediate action will be taken on the subject, and that societies may bo organised for the purpose of :rying the experiment, and introducing the most improved method of prep.'^ring the fibre of these plants for the British market. Much in this way \nny be done the present year, if only men of influence and capital would study the best interests of the province, and lead the von in the introduction of those improvements. — British American Cultivator, Toronto, 184.?. TiLLAOE AND GnAZINO. ' In the present imperfect mode of farming in this province, the griturt being little understood or attended to — and as gra/.ing exclunivcly has not been tried — it may perhaps be difficult to speak with any certainty as to the comparative profits of tillage and grazing. Many farmers, bow- ever, are of opinion that the advantages of the latter arc not sufficiently understood, and recommend its adoption.' — Emigration Commissioners' Information, 1842. [See the Notes to the Third Letter, • Prosperous Dairy Farming,* • Early Dairy Farm in Canada,' also the Appendix, which contains de- tjiiled information respecting profits on tillage and grazing.] ■v/ '■ \^:i 3-t . x V •0 MISCELLANEOUS INDUSTRY. jll THIRD LETTER. Gen«ral Industry of the Inhabitant* —Wool, Domeitie Manufactures, Orchards, Dairy Produce— Dritish Manufactures and Prices— Struggles of early Settlers— Growing Prosperity— Delusions of Emigrants— Defi- ciency of Information — Discoimigements to bo encountered— Gentlemen Farmers— Classes of Inhabitants — Limited Number of Poor — Cases of Public Begging— Flour and other Mills, and Manufactories — Dis- tilleries, Breweries, and Taverns — ^Influence of T mperance Movement. NoTK3 — Fruits of Canada— Maple-sugar Making — Prosperous Dairy Farming— Early Dairy Farm in Canada. !i ' ' I l!i II' i I ! I ;:='• i|i London, Canada, 1843. I NOW lay before you an enumeration of the miscellaneous items of industry, from the official returns for the past year, along with additions and remarks supplied from my own obser- vation: — The produce within the district in 1842 was, of Wool, lbs., ..... 99,484 Fulled woollen cloth, domestic manufacture, yds., 28,999 Linen, cotton, or other thin cloth, do. do., . 10,769 Flannel, or other woollen cloth not fulled, do. do., 69,287 Maple-sugar, lbs., .... 398,463 Hives of bees kept, .... 4314 Under this head of general industry may be added the pro- S ^ ORCHARDS. 31 ducc of orchards. Large quantities of apples, plums, and some pears, alno peaches from the shores of Lake Erie, all make up a considerable share in the receipts of those farmers who have good orchards. It is right pleasant, as you may fancy, in rid- ing through any ordinarily industrious and thriving settlement, to see these goodly-looking orchards, adding so much to the appearance, as they must do to the comforts, of the adjoininif fann-house. One would almost suppose, too, that a row, at least of the trees, of these pleasant orchards had been set apart, in the kindly spirit which some good people have had in dig- ging wells, and planting shady trees along the highways,— to refresh and cheer the traveller. The tempting apples reach their laden branches quite over the slight wooden rail fence of five feet or so, and wc.e it not — (alas for the marring of our pleasant fancyings !) — that fort^ard stage-drivers, teamsters, and rascally boys, plunder wholesale, instead of contentedly pulling their passing apple, and so have thus brought the practice into scandal, I might have had it to note, as some travellers have done, that fruits were so plenty in America that people need never disturb their pockets, but only use the free-will gifts of the road-side. The unsuspecting early settlers seem never to have dreamed in their primitive times, when all had land for the asking, and orchards for the planting, of forward teamsters and rascally boys. But we digress from our enumeration of the items of rural industry. After orchards may be mentioned poultry, which forms another item. Turkeys, geese, and espe- cially the common domestic fowls, are much more generally used than at home, and a considerable number are sold in the towns. Cheese, butter, and eggs, ought to show fully as con- spicuously as any of the unenumerated articles in the returns, yet not much cheese is made hereabouts — comparatively little in Canada — and the quality, generally speaking, though I would not say indiflTerent, 1 never really could well boast of; still I have seen some very fair samples indeed. A good deal is consumed) which is brought from the United States. From > J) I I r ■m I 'U ft I r ll'!' M V DOMKSTIC AND BRITISH MANUFACTURES. Ohio we havp it very fair. English cheese is also used to a little extent. The butter, though Home of it is really as pood as you could wish, as a whole, however, it does not approach the quality it might he, from not having as yet received the ne- cessary share of attention in ('anada; pasturage here being, I suppose, too rank and new, and the cows allowed to feed bo much in the biisii among various sorts of weeds. There has not, it is true, been any encouraging market for its exportation un- til the recent favourable alterations in the tariff, and which go€8, in some measure, to explain the rather general inatten- tion there has existed in the preparation of this important item of farm produce. There has been in some seasons a good deal bought by the store-keepers, but the lowness of price only tempting them to buy — at times as low as 3d. a-pound, paid in store goods— and this the store-keeper salted and packed for the Montreal market. Wool, you will observe, forms rather an im;^ .it item for this country, there being nearly 100,000 lbs. produced in this district. It is chiefly used in the manufacture of coarse cloth for men's wear, stutf for women's gowns, men's socks or half hose, women's stockings, and flannels, besides yarn and worsted for various purposes. The cloth for the farmers, and their sons' everyday wear, is isuch as was once very generally used in Scotland, and is sometimes yet, but more so about the time the Ayrshire bard ' went whistling at the plough.' The prevalent colours are blue, dark brown, and sheep's grey. The stuff for women's coarse gowns is a kind of linsey-woolsey of cotton warp and woollen weft, and is of a darkish and not unbecoming colour and appearance. Though not anything like generally used, owing to the low price of British printed cottons now, yet being very durable, it is still frequently to be seen worn by the thrifty housewives of the backwoods. Regarding the low price of British goods here, I may remark, that both in men and women's apparel prices are almost as reasonable as in Britain — I mean in the towns, at such stores where the trade is car- \ :''. -\ •'^ EAKLY ^TRL" OGI.F.S. 33 rit'd on entirely, or chiefly, for cash, and the lowest cash pricci charged. You can buy good hroadelothn from 18m. to 20h. ; oHHsiimeres, 8h. to 10s. ; nioleskins, In. (id. to Hh, a-yard ; pood jirinted rottonn for ladicH* dresses, 7d. to .Od. ; bleached shirtinpn, Ad. to 8d. ; good plain g.os de Naples, 2s. (3d. to 38. Gd. ; 6-4th British merinoes, 2s. 3d. to 3s., and so on. Strangers almost invariably are pleasingly disappointed at bei.ig enabled to purchase clothing and other goods in the /esternniost parts of Canada at a very moderate advance upon the 8ame prices which they used to pay at home; and i.,n^.^ who have trusted to their old-fashioned ' guide be its. nnd locked up some share of their much-needed money in a year or two's stock of gowns, coats, linens, &c.,are, as may be fancied, not a little annoyed. A pleasant consequence of these mode- rate prices is the generally fr« consumption of British fabrics among all classes, especially among the female portion of fami- lies ; and it is also worthy of note, that every succeeding year nhows a demand in the shops tor still better fabrics, and an in- creasing consumption of such. Those merchants and ship- pers in Britain, who have profitably practised upon a current opinion, that lots or ' jobs' of cast-aside and inferior goods were well enough, and just what were suited, for the colony, must have already found, in many cases to their loss, that such can no longer be a thriving trade, carried out in the wholesale man- ner it once was. "When there were scarcely any roads to the towns, and towns themselves had but feeble existence, and little or no money in the country, people then were glad to get anything. Is it not hard to believe with you, what I have over and over again been told by numbers of respectable old settlers, that many a bushel of wheat they have exchanged for the single yard of plain factory cotton ! And think you what the toils of the bush -farmers must then have been for even the first necessary, food, when, almost shoeless, not unfrequently, thongs of bark alone holding the sole and body of the shoe to- gether, these Bobiuson Crusoes of Canada would have had to '^l V l!!''; 'Hi GROWING PRQSPERITY. fight their way thus through the bush-tracks, some twenty miles or more, with what grain they could carry on their backs to the distant mill to get ground, or to exchaiige part of it for some positive necessary. This is no imagining like De Foe's Crusoe, but scrupulous fact, which has been told to me by those whose word I could trust, and who had themselves experienced exactly as stated. As an instance of the changing state of things, even within the period of the last few years, When I first knew this town here, four years ago, there was only one store, I think, where carpeting could be had, «nd then you would have had indif- ferent choice ; now, there are seven or eight principal shops, all keeping a stock of carpeting, and you would have no need to complain of want of variety in kind, quality, or pattern, from common, which can be had at 2s. 6d. a-yard, to that usually sold as best Brussels, which is to be had at 5s. When such change has been in a place of only sixteen years' growth, what further more cheering improvement may wt not expect in an- other sixteen years or so ? All was forest where this town stands, so lately as the year 1827 ; and the whole township, composed of a square of about twelve mil'js, contained only two families in 1817. It is, indeed, true, that the influence of the military stationed here since 1838, and the circulation of their pay, have in a good measure occasioned these improved appear- ances, but only in measure, as in other towns of Western Ca- nada, such as Hamilton, eighty milciS east of this, at the head of Lake Ontario, where this influence was, absent, the agreeable change I have alluded to, indicating the progress of the coun- try, in being able to increase the comforts of its population, is also strikingly observable. The great bulk of our farming po- pylation, however, who are hardy, frugal, plain-living people, I would have you to bear in mind, do not aspire to such pleasant home conveniences as those just mentioned. The growing taste is limited as yet among the few, and it is chiefly among tbo more prosperous of the town population that the impro ve- il^!: ,i \ DELUSIONS OF EMIGRANTS. 35 ment has most shown itself. Still, you know how town-folks are easier led to show their improved circumstances than their less ambitious and more plain-sailing country neighbours, who will rather lay out thei.; odd savings for the purpose of hiring labour to add to or improve their cultivated fields, or to buy an hundred acres more land to set down a son upon, or to give away, as dowry, with a daughter. Here, again, you must not be led to entertain the idea that, even in Canada, though favoured greatly in many^ material respects, it ir easy, and a matter of course, for farmers thus to set agoing in life their sons or daughters. Only so far true it is, that such fatherly generosity is not an uncommon occurrence. And with people, too, who never at home, among your press of population, could have hoped to enjoy anything like such gratification, dear to parents' heart. Persons proposing coming to this country, in whatever line of life, must prepare themselves for many unpleasant realities that seldom find their way into friendly letters, and which are either altogether amissing or very exaggerateuiy displayed in travellers' books. Many of these annoyances, it is true, are of a nature not easily told, and among so many solid comforts too they are 800Q forgotten. Numbers of sensible enough people, who, of course, must be aware — if they may rot have experienced the fact, seem yet to overlook it, that every change in life is found to bring a state of things always a good deal different from what we had expected. We find the change much better or else much worse than our minds, with false hopes or fears, had caused us to look upon it. If vroi ..e, the state of things often receive the blame due to our own delusions ; and hence our colonies have been so sadly sinned against ; and they have fared, too, it is true, about as ill from the opposite delusion. People have looked upon them (and all too Icng this has been the case among a large class) as a kind of out-of-the-world wild-fields of banishment — their going there as gloomy expatri- ation, to suffer from dismally chilling snows or scorching suns — m li] ■iii'! m 3'!;, '■ 1 l! N i: in' 'i' ill li !^i: ii I-' ih. i M 1 III ij iij i '■' ■ ■ ii::;.. ill; wj 111'! ' '< 1 Si 36 % DEFICIENCY OF INFORMATION. among dreary forests, bears, rattle-sntikes, and such like — all ■o much fudge-talk, which receives so forcible chastisement end ' most marked light treatment, when people see the real exist- ences with their own eyes, that it has caused this opposite ex- treme to be run into, of painting the pleasing disappointment most glowingly— all indeed too much so. And so you see how, chiefly from want of dispassionate and properly-based informa- tion, serious errors have been bred, and confusion and disap- pointments, and grievous drawbacks inflicted upon the prosperity of the colonieSj'and the wholesome and good work of colo lisation ; and, as a matter of course, your home population and the resour- ces of the empire have not escaped a share of the consequences. I do indeed hope, most sincerely, that this imperfect state of things will not long continue now. The people — especially the prudent, calculating, cautious, and not least valuable por- tion of them — require more minute particulars than the well- meant, but too general information of the presently constituted Emigration Board afford. Such indeed is acceptable so far as it goes ; yet to effect larger good more detail is wanted. But to the main course of my letter, again, which has been somewhat interrupted, though I daresay that you pardon, and may even perhaps not unacceptably receive, such digres- sions as I have ventured upon. I am anxious that these le ters should give you no false views of this country, but rather dispel such ; and they may perhaps suggest, at least, to your mind what sort of a real existence Canada is, and how colonists fare in it. In writing you of the comforts of our farmers here— with their own free farms, light taxes, and plenty of beef, bread, and wool — there is a part of their life which cannot, consistently with truth, be left out of view, and which may serve as a hint to many who, simply enough, fre- quently are led to overlook such. When I allude chiefly to the train of annoyances from which no calling nor station, nor people of any country are exempt, and which ihs Canadian farmer has, as he best knows himself, his full enough share, DISCOL il.' r.KMENTS. 37 vou will at once allow I have approached ground which, whether or no can he truthfully imagined, cannot at all be ea^iily described. There are other things not so easily to be borne by niany as these common annoyances, and persona would do well to think how they can bear them, or aiford to cast them aside : there is that partial and comparative breaking- up of old associations and forming others anew in a new world, as in a sense this is called. And yet, after all, everything con- sidered (and there always are weighty considerations, calling to be balanced with such things as associations, though these oftentimes are nothinglight)— in choosing a home in the coloniea we but go to settle ourselves amid communities composed of our countrymen, perhaps countymen,and it m.ay be, as it not unfre- quently is, townsfolks; and so it is, you may conceive, at worst, but merely a partial and comparative breaking of associations Families will sometimes experience more of this, in removing from the Lothians to Perth or Aberdeenshires, not to speak of from Scotland to any part of England, or from either to the so- uiuch bepraised and fashionable countries of the European con- tinent, amid strange laws and strange languages. But I will now allude specifically to some our drawbacks here, these annoyances I hinted at. There in the farmer's scrapings, and often sickening and wearisome tiiough scrapings, for money, in a country where money is scuice, though, as I have told you, money is to be had almost always for wht-at, and some times for other things, even here so far w est. It is not easy for those who have not been used to the like, or indeed for any one, to have a day's life worried out, as, for instance, by bringing in a load of hay to market, and have all ^ its of prices bid you for it, except that at which you belie you can aflFord it, and sometimes, it may be, no price at all ; and when night approaches, reminding you to move homewards, it is hard, don't you think, to take your old load back ?^gain, or be forced to sell to the man who had only offered you little more than lialf price, and whom, you have thought, watched you bm prey m i ■ M ■lit 1 ir w \s sl^i 38 GENTIEMEN FARMERS. !l III. < U. Si »i:';;l as night began to fall— all too-knowing, that you would prefer yielding rather than take your load home again through sorry roads. This is a vexing, but a true picture of a state of things to be classed among our drawbacks here ; and all who think they could not make up their minds to such, and other rough things, which gentlemen-farmers at home know little or nothing of, would do well to pause before th iy tl;:nk of roughing it in Canada. Captain , who bartered bis half-pay for a settlement in Canada, I have frequently heard bitterly complain ; and, being all unused to the like, it was indeed painful to hear him tell how his hands and neck would be blistered while toiling in the field during very hot days, neither able to afford aban- doning the work nor to hire labour ; the manner in which farm- ing is carried on, the general price of produce, and scarcity of money not allowing such, it is conceived. This class of settlers, were I to venture my opinion. However much they may have secured a kind of independence for themselves and families, have not, I would think, added to what they were wont to call < comforts,' and as the world with them would interpret the phrase. Hardier an i more venturesome spirits of the class who have laid aside the finer spun notions of the changling phrase, ' comfort,' do assure themselves, I know, that they have more of genuine comfort than ever beforo they enjoyed. Some even may fancy themselves, I daresay, and perhaps they are not farthest from the right, to be full happy and truly dignified in likening themselves, for want of exacter parallel, to those ancient heroes of i^oman story, Cincinatus, Curius Dentatus, and others of like fame, with their patches of farms of mere seven acres. You remember the experience of that delightful writer, the authoress of the ' Backwoods of Canada,' herself ac- customed to the refinements of home life : — * I must freely con- fess to you,' writes this lady from Canada, ' that I do prize and enjoy my present liberty in this country exceedingly ; in thi we possess an advantage over you, and over those that inhabit the towns and villages in this *'Ountry, where I see a ridiculous \ DOMESTIC TRAFFIC. 39 attempt to keep up an appearance that is quite foreign to the situation of those that practise it. It is foolish,' continues she, ' to launch out in a style of life that every one knows cannot be maintained ; rather ought such persons to rejoice in the consciousness that they can, if they please, live according to their circumstances, without being the less regarded for the practice of prudence, economy, and industry. Now, we btish- tettUrs aro more independent : we do what we like ; we dress AS we find most suitable and most convenient ; we are totally without the fear of any Mr or Mrs Grundy ; and having shaken off the trammels of Grundyism, we laugh at the absurdity of those who voluntarily forge afresh and hug their chains.' Leaving for the present, now, these pros and cons of Ca- nada life, let us revert to our task of inspecting the picture of domestic industry of the inhabitants of this district, selected for our useful matter-of-fa,v ; purpose. Continuing, then, the su!:ject of the domestic manufactures of the inhabitants. Many of these home-made articles, woollen hose, flannel, and men's coarse cloth, are not only made use of by the farmers' families themselves, but a considerable surplus is exchanged by the family at the iito*'4'«) for other goods, as prints, silks, muslins, shirtings, and the like. The storekeeper has a demand every winter for much of these raanufactures, particularly for the cloth, both by those farmers who may not have not made any, and by trades- men and people of good means who wear this frequently for trousers and over-coats. It usually sells from 4s. to 58. and (Js., and I have seen some of fine wool, having had more than ordinary care at the hands of the domestic spinner and weaver, and being well dressed, bringing, in an instance, I remember, Ts. a yard; though warm British tweed cloths, fully better looking, can be had from 4s. to 5s. The home-made is preferred for its greater warmth and durability. And there may be something, too, of that laudable pride for one's own manufacture to ac- count for this preference, which, until the people can readily sell their wool, will continue to be indulged, even should P. -I !V:i; 40 DOMESTIC INDUSTRY. ! ! British fabrics become much lower. The domestic flrinnel, rather rough to the feel and appearance, its wearing quality being chietly the object, is much used for men's working shirts, and is both made of all wool and of half cotton. Large quan- tities of knitted woollen socks are made in the farmer's fami- lies, which are exchanged in the stores for other goods. There is usually a good demand for the socks in the stores, they being generally preferred by all classes to the imported ones. They are superior both in 6nenev«s and quantity of wool to the Aber- deen knitted hose usually imported here; their price is from 3i. to Is. 6d. a pair. Besides the occupations of spinning and knitting their wool, and sometimes weaving, which engage the leisure of the industrious farmer's wives and their daughters' •traw-hat making is another branch of domestic industry car- ried on to some extent. Several thousands are broug"ht into the stores every summer ; the straw is taken from the farmer's own fields, and is used both split and whole, and much of it is very well prepared and neatly plaited. These home-made straws, with low crown and broad brim, you may see sported with very becoming grace, having their black, green, or straw, inch and half ribbon band, by our old men and young men, misses and children. The price of these varies from Is. to 2s. 6d. Plain and bronzed Leghorn hats are also imported from New York, and are sold from 5s. to 10s. That you may not think our heat so oppressive as so force this light wear, many of our gents never dofif their black beaver ; and numbers of people, during summer and winter, through the whole year round con- tinue wearing the same ordinary clothing, just as you may see numbers of people do at home — though a considerably greater proportion, indeed, change their dress here, preferring comfort and convenience more, and fashion and appearance less, than you do in your less active and more closely packed commu- nities. And the climate, besides, it is true, gives a fair enough excuse. You may have heard that in Canada the farmers believe \ LIMITED NUMBER OF POOR. 41 they cannot afford to hire agricultural labour regularly as you do at home. You will regret with me that such is generally the case. The number of male farm servants shown to be employed in the district in 1842 is only G5; of other male ficrvants in private families, 111. These last I would believe chiefly to be employed in the care of horses, collecting and cutting wood for fuel, and the general work of a family. The Dumber of female servants in private families is 210; persons engaged in trade or commerce, 311. I will now give you an important statement, more illustrative of what we are than anything I have as yet perhaps told you — that is, the number of persons subsisting on alms, which is ten ! Ten persons only in a population of 30,000— one pauper only for every 3000 I And even this amount of pauperism not real perhaps ; at least, I should say, of a different nature, arising from other causes, than yours — chiefly from four causes, I should suppose : first, extreme intemperate habits ; old age distant from relations ; physical disability in like circumstances ; and lastly, it may be a depraved choice, attended sometimes by some one or more of the three other causes. But this is a good deal con- jecture, owing to the subject engaging so little attention, and ill the iiumiliating forms in which you have it, being almost excluded from observation. During the fcur years I have been in Western Canada, I have scarcely met a case of the low beggary which is so pitifully prominent with you. Of cases which I can call to mind, I will tell you two which occurred this last winter. One cold morning, a woman poorly clad, with u sickly-looking child in her arms, entered a shop and begged assistance. She had lost her husband, she said, and was travelling in search of him, and her child was ill and in want of food. The shopkeeper on the instant told the case to a few of the neighbours, and the result was a contribution of a little money, an article or two of clothing, and a supply of food. In about an hour or so after this, the woman was ob- •erved in the open street, half-sitting half-lying upon the \r ('. . i § IP 48 S CHARITABLE EXERTIONS. It! ih . m . If" l,M jlIIilMl k ,;; Urn- i "ill! I ii ground, in a state of intoxication, and with her poor sick babe uncared for, and the loaves of bread she had received scattered on the road. The other case was that of a man who represented himself as a w^eaver from Paisley, who had come to Canada the previous season with his family, and had been unable to procure employment ; and that his wife, whom he had lodged sonis miles distant, was confined, and in want of several necessaries. The man's appearance and story being trusted, he received on the spot some few articles necessary in the circumstances he had represented ; and, by being recommended for further assistance, a trifle of money was collected for him. Perhaps you have anticipated the result — it was afterwards believed to have been 80 — a case of deception. In this country, you perceive, there is this so different from you, we are apt to be more liberal and doubt less when assistance is asked— indications certainly fa- vourable of the state of society. There are instances of subscription papers being presented by the neighbours of some family or individuals who have met with a calamity, as fire or long sickness ; and these are ever attended to with prompt liberality. The socitaes so general throughout Canada, under the names of St George's, St An- drew's, and St Patrick's, composed of individuals immediately or remotely connected with the three kingdoms, have done much good by relieving accidental suffering, or assisting the emigrant whose means may have become exhausted in the search for employment. There is another class of cases where assistance is required, and which occurs in the towns during: long and severe winters among the families of labourers out of work, with means run short, and many, from being sti'angers, wanting also credit, or confidence to ask it. A supply of la- bour greater than the demand collecting at a certain place, would easily account for this were other as likely causes awanting, as sickness, accidents, or unfrugal or worse habits. Generally throughout Western Canada these cases prevail to no great extent, and are usually promptly and liberally re- ^^w MILLS, MANUFACTORIES, TAVKRNS, itc. 43 lieved. At Quebec and Montreal, the first landin;^ points of enii^'ration, and where the winters are so much lonfrer and severer, the case is very different, and attention to such detti- tution becomes a subject of considerable public importance. I must now draw this rather lengthened letter to a conclu- sion, by presenting you with the remaining more prominent statistics of the district. Of the mills and other manufactories, there are grist or flour mills, 31 — being always one, and incases three or four, in each township, with from one to two run of stone each. To these mills the farmers take their wheat to be ground into Hour — little wheat comparatively being converted into flour here for exportation— the wheat being generally shipped from Port Sta^iley for Montreal direct, or for St Catherine's on the Wel- land Canal to be floured. Besides these mills there are— 2 oat- meal mills, 1 barley mill, 25 thrashing mills, 59 saw mills, 5 oil II. ills, 7 fulling mills, 11 carding mills, 2 paper mills, 2 iron works, 11 tanneries, 1 pot and pearl ash manufactory, 9 other manufactories. So much for this enumeration of busy in- dustry ; what follows partakes of a doubtful nature — I allude to distilleries, breweries, and taverns. There are 6 distil- leries, 7 breweries, 100 fciverns or houses of public entertain- ment, and 45 stores where spirituous liquors are sold. The consumption of spirituous liquors in Canada — which, owing to the low price and the easy means of the people, was formerly large — has been, within these few years, greatly reduced by the action of Temperance Societies, which have had greiit influence here among all classes except the wealthier circles, where, as at home, I suppose, though not to the extent for- merly, drinking usages are still generally count- nanced. The number of 100 taverns ;ibove stated, as existing within this district- of London in Upper Canada, may be partly accounted for by explaining, that owing to the great deal of travelling in waggons and on horseback in Canada, taverns are situated every seven or eight miles, perhaps throughout the IJ '1. € I I'!! '.'( V? ' is:! i'f 'i, i *| ■If ' 4 ' 111 ' Li !■. ^i, |i '' liiii .k i ! I' 1 ■ li ' i* 1 i 1 ill ''< > -- ^^Sfl ti M r i 44 V TREVALENCE OF TAVERNS. country (generally on an average of every hix miles or so, alonf? tliO ro.ids for the accoinniodation of feeding and ;vateringhorHe8, and rest and food for the traveller. Not unfre(iuently, however, many of thero are the resort of the least industrious individuals residing in the vicinity, who, in hours through the day, as well as during the evenings, seek the grosser excitements which intoxicating liquors, party po- litics, and gaming, all too temptingly furnish. Yet these roadside taverns may he said to he harmless compared with those 80 prevalent in many of the villages and towns, the number of which, one is constrained to observe, is noways •complimentary to the discretion, to say the least, of the ma- jority of the bench of magistracy licensing them. Appointed for the peace and happiness of their respective communities, one would suppose that the generally respectable and intelli- gent members of this body might so far moderately aid exer- tions employed so unquestionably for the benefit of society,— for tne discouragement of indolent and other vicious habits, and promoting comfort among a population. I can fancy I hear you say, ' How is it that in a coantry 8uch as Canada is represented to be, all classes of the popula- tion so comparatively easy in their circumstances, the vice of indulging in intoxicating liquors has been carried to the ex- tent as to require such efforts for its suppression ? One may readily conceive how in the case of over-crowded Britain — rife with well-directed aims and hopes struck down and ruthlessly blasted, amid keen competitions and uptumings of over-done trades and over-stocked professions, and the cold closed doors presenting themselves to hapless despairing poverty — the tempt- ing cup which drowns, though but for the moment, the mind's rankling and withering cares, may be so all too frequently and disregardingly, as it is despairingly seized upon !' True what you say — and besides, your population have not had stretched out to them freely enough the blessings of a well-based educa- tion, and the other lesser, yet in a sense as necess^iryy means qf ISOLATION OF KAllLIKIl fOLONISTS. cheerful recreation, for tbcir physical ivs well as mental health and cnjoyniont. Canada, though provided from an early period with some kind of national schools, yet with a widely scattered and coin- jiaratively poor population, thoufijh ulmudantly possessed of the material necessaries of life, has never been completely able to extend a beneficial, solid education over its fur-stretched nnd thinly-peopled territory. And the mass of the population were thus left to seek from other Hources the gratification natu- rally required to lighten and relieve their monotonous round of toil,andtheirisuiated dwellings in the bush. "With well regulated minds, the happy results of either well self-taught or good school education, such lives as colonists here have had, no people might be supposed freer from temptations. Yet chietty has it been for want of a good education, the difficulty, not to Ray the almost impossibility, of obtaining liberally either the means of self-acquiring elementary, or gratifying acquired knowledge, through the medium of really useful and substan- tial hooks or other ways ; and the circumstances of the coun- try, besides, presenting no -.trong necessity calling for instruc- tion to preserve any keen competition among the bulk of the population— such sources of gratificotion as were within easy reach too readily supplied a place among a people, as the native class of Canadian farmers are here, being naturally social, kindly disposed, and hospitable. But perhaps not among the least numerous portion of the population who have had immoderate recourse to drinking usages, and from partly similar circumstances, were a class of colonists chiefly from among the middle classes of home society, who, entering this country with a little money, though in many cases with an assumption of no little consequence in their niJin- ncrs and intercourse, affecting superiority among a people unused to allow such to mere assumption or rank — these people, finding their position so altered in this country, too frequently and readily seek, among a restricted circle, the gratification of vm: ■ n 'i . \ * 1^ hi • Hi , f 40 IMI'IlOVINf; STATK OP CAVADA. the over-Hnc\n\ board. IiulividunlM, too, from among every class, may bo found to whom tho above applies, who, from tontmcted noticms of some fancied superiority to most people around them, prejudices of country, and such like, make their settlement in any new country necessarily disaj?reeahle to themselves, as it is offensive to others and comparatively useless, if not prejudicial, to the social and general well-being of their adopted abode. All who may think of coming to thin country would do well to weigh the considerations suggested by these ftlight allusions to the state of society most prevalent in the newer portions at least of Canada, and in some rcspecls the application extends to the entire country. You must not allow your imagination, however, to colour things more than I have perhaps fully enough suggt^jted them to you. Canada is every year vastly improving ; so that the Canada of ten years' ago is quite another country than the Canada of this present 1843; and every year almost bring with it its improvements or cheering promises. Society, with he gradually bettering circumstances of the population, and the flow of emigration from Britain, these several years past, has conspicuously improved ; the state of education begins to receive increasing attention ; agricultural associations are springing up in every part ; the resources of the country and details of improvement are more attended to by the Govern- ment Executive, which has confessedly become more efficient since the civil outbreak directed the attention of the Home Government to remedy a confused state of things, and to extend to the colony — what the colonists gratefully acknowledge (more particularly in the recent tariff measures for their benefit) — tokens of a decidedly friendly and honourable desire to cement closer the ties which connect for common well-being Colonies and Empire. The Montreal Temperance Society, which may be termed the parent of temperance societies in Ccinada, has been sur- prisingly successful, owing in great measure to the unwearied ■ N ■: } : 1 11, TKMrKUANLli MOVKMENT. 47 zi'iil of its philanthropic leaderfi in awakening pui)lic attention, and extendinf? ItH influence over the entire province. From the annual report ot this society for IJM.'i, the numher of per- sons in Canada who have pledj^ed themselves to abstain from, and generally discountenance, intoxicating liquors, is estimated at 100,000. One of the Society's secreUiries, Mr R. D. Wads- worth, while on a tour through the country last year, travelled about 1500 miles, and delivered nearly 100 addresses, and added over lOOO names to the pledge ; and the immediate re- sult of all the Society's agencies during a period of eighteen months, up to February last, is reported to be above 800 meet- ings held, and 17,000 members enrolled. There are ai, least seven or eight of the clergymen of Montreal connected with this extensively useful and philanthropic society, among whom are the Presbyterian ministers, the Revs. Henry Esson and William Taylor, and the Theological Professor of the Congre- gational body, the Rev. J. J. Carruthers. The President of the Society is John Dougall, Esq., an enterprising and wealthy merchant of Montreal, who, from the early movements of tem- perance in Canada, has been distinguished for his zealous efforts, which have largely contributed towards the successes achieved by the Montreal and other societies throughout the province. The most successful and influential society in Western Canada, and second, perhaps, only to the Montreal one, is in operation at Toronto. One of the most pleasing facts connected with the movements of temperance during the past year in Canada is the progress made among the Irish and French Roman Catholics, under the direction of a number of their priests. The Trish Roman Catholic Society in Montreal numbers between 5000 and 6000, nearly 3000 of whom have pledged themseUes to the principle of total abstinence. A society lately formed by the Roman Catholic Bishop numbers 1400 of total abstinence members. The influence of such movements, in a country where intoxicating liquor is so tempt- ingly low priced, as in the instance of native whisky, which ^ I f." 1 & >i 48 N^OTES. '!■';: «,[: M ; h 1 :, 1 ; .^ '• m ^ h" 11 sells in parts of Canada at one shilling a gallon, and among a people who, by reason of the generally depressed state of educa- tion, have not as yet acquired suflicient taste for the more refined enjoyments — may readily be believed by you to be of no doght importance to the moral well-being of our rapidly in- creasing communities. To give you one specific instance of the good effects of this temperance movement, I will select the case of Quebec— from the extent and nature of its trade and population, the least moral of the towns of Canada. The police department of Quebec had on record, for 1042, between 300 and 400 fewer cases of public drunkenness than occurred during the previous year 1841 ; and the keeper of the public jail reported that the committjds had diminished nearly fifty per cent. In my next letter I will tell you something of the state of education — and speak of the townships, the villages, and the town of London— and such topics which may suggest them- selves OS likely to interest you. NOTES. Fruits of Canada. ' In my garden [at Toronto, on Lake Ontario, writes Sir Richard RonriT castle in 1841] I had the following varieties of fruit, from which the cus- tomary gifts of Pomona, in Upper Canada, in favourable situations, may be inferred : — Of apples, the golden pippin, not so good as in England, but healthier ; the pommede-neige, a ruddy-streaked apple, with white flesh, and very sweet and j.'. asant, but which will not keep long, and hence its name ; the snow-apple, keeping sound only until winter snows ; the bou- rossou, a russet and highly flavoured keeping apple ; the pomme-gris, or grey apple, also excellent ; with many other varieties of inferior kinds, such as codlings, little red-streaks, &c. I f'M ^m:^ NOTES. 49 The peara were of two kinds, one the little early yellow, and the other ft small hard one, but neither good. Of plums, there were the greengage, and egg plum, the bullacc. the common blue and the common yellow plum, but none of them po8sos<;ing the taste of those in France or England, and more fit for preserv'es than for the table. Of grapes I had only the Isabella, and these were not productive, re- quiring in this climate great care and management. Of cherries, the Kentish and the Morello ; the sour Kentish is, how- ever, the common fruit of the country, and very little pains has been taken to improve the stock. Raspberries, red and white; gooseberries, large and small, rough and smooth-skinned ; the red, t*«e white, and the block currant, were in i)ro- fusion, and yielded abundantly. Of atrawb'jrries, there were several of the European varieties, butthoy have not the rich flavour of their originals ; in fact, the wild Canadian strawberry, though smaller, is better, and makes a richer preserve.' — Tht CuMdas in 1841. Maplk-Suoar Making. The writer of the * Backwoods of Canada,' a lady, who emigrated with her husband to Canada about ten years ago, thus describes the process of sugar-making from the stately and ornamental, as well as useful, maple- tree, which, in clumps or groves, called a * maple bush,' is found grow- ing as part of the forest on almost every farm in Canada. The tree, com- monly known as the plane-tree in this country, being of tho same species, closely resembles in appearance the sugar maple-tree. ' But I must now tell you of our sugar-making, in which I take rather an active part. Our experiment was on a very limited scale, having but one kettle, besides two iron tripods ; but it was sufficient to initiate us in the art and mystery of boiling the sap into molasses, and finally the molasses down to sugar. The first thing to be done in tapping the maples, is to provide little troughs to catch the sap as it flows : these are merely pieces of pine-tree, hollowed with the axe. The tapi ng the tree is done by cutting a gash in the bark, or boring a hole with an auger. The former i)lan, as being most readily performed, is that most usually practised. A slightly hol- lowed piece of cedar or elder is then inserted, so as to slant downwards and direct the sap into the trough ; I have even seen a flat chip made the ronductor. Ours were managed according to rule, jou may be sure. The sap runs most freely after a frosty night, followed by a bright warm day ; it should be collected during the day in a barrel or large trough, capable |"V„ A-- i^j i f^! jl ,(■' ^ $] . ■ f' ■ I iW M I :r; iiii ^.r' It- : If' i yiiiiil! 1^^ lit : N, .^0 NOTES. of holding ftll tluit can be boiled down the same evtring ; it should not stand more than twenty-four liours, as it is apt to ferment, and will not grain well unless fresh. My husband, with an Irish lad, began collecting the sap the last week in March. A pole was fixed across two forked stakes, strong enough to bear the weight of the big kettle. Their employment during the day was emptying the troughs, and chopping wood to supply the fires. In the evening they lit the fires and began boiling down the sap. It was a pretty and picturesque sight to see the sugar-boilers, witli their bright log fire among the trees, now stirring up the blazing pile, now throwing in the liquid, and stirring it down with a big ladle. When the fire grow fierce, it boiled and foamed up in the kettle, and they had to throw in fresh sap to keep it from running over. When the sap begins to thicken into molasses, it is then brought to tiiu sugar-boiler to be finished. The process is simple ; it only requires attention to skimming und keeping the mass from boiling over, till it has arrived at the sugaring point, which is ascertained by dropping a little into cold water. When it is near the proper consistency, the kettle or pot becomes full of yellow froth, that dimples and rises in large bubbles from beneath. These throw out puff's of styam, and when the molasses is in this stage, it is nearly converted into sugar. Those who pay great at- tention to .ceeping the liquid free from scum, and understand the precise sugaring point, will produce an article little if at all inferior to muscadavo. In general you see the maple-sugar in large cakes, like bees' wax, close and compact, without showing the crystallisation ; but it looks more beautiful wlien the grain is coarse and sparkling, and the sugar is broken in rough masses like sugar-candy. Tlie sugar is rolled or scraped down with a knife for use, as it takes long to dissolve in the tea without this preparation. I superintended the last part of the process, that of boiling the molasseS down to sugar ; and, considering it was a first attempt, and without any experienced person to direct me, otherwise than the information I obtained from , I succeeded tolerably well, and produced some sugar of a fine sparkling grain and good colour. 13esides the sugar, I made about three gallons of molasses, which proved a great comfort to us, forming a nice ingredient in cakes, and an excellent sauce for puddings.' — Backwoods of Canada. [The accomplished writer of this instructive and interesting book, who settled in Canada, as will be remembered, in 1832, still resides, which may give pleasure to many readers to know, amid the scenery she has so attractively described, near Rice Lake in the Newcastle district, situated between Lakes Ontario and Iluron, and occasionally delights with her ■t NOTES. j1 elegant and facile pen a large circle of readers in Canada, by contributing to a tasteful Canadian Monthly, the * Literary Garland' of Montreal.] PnosPERora Dairy Farmino. The subjoined is extracted from the May number for 1843 of the ' Bri- tish American Cultivator,' a highly-respectable monthly periodical, pub- lished at Toronto, T'^pper Canada, and, until very recently, edited by Mr W. Evans of Montreal, a gentleman whose well-known services to the agriculture of Canada can hardly be estimated too highly. Mr Evans' treatises on Canadian agriculture are acknowledged authorities in Britain, nni are quoted in the volumes of the ' Edinburgh Cabinet Lil)niry' upon llritish America, by Hugh Murray, Esq., and in the publications of the (iovemment Board of Emigration Commissioners. The British Ame- rican Cultivator was, in 1843, the only periodical published in Canada lievoted exclusively to the interests of agriculture, and came into existence 80 recently as January 1842. Previous to that period the farmers of Ca- nada were indebted to United States' publications. Since the commence- ment of 1844, a secow^ agricultural periodical has appeared in Canada, and, under the management of Mr Evans, is published at Montreal, and addressed more directly, it is understood, to the interests of liower Ca- nada. The • Canada Temperance Advocate,' under the superintendence of a body of gentlemen, zealously interosted in the welfare of Canada, be- sides the primary object of its advocacy, also devotes a regular portion of its extensively circulated pages in the promotion of agriculture and edu- cation. And, for the better effecting its praiseworthy objects, it extends its means in awarding premiums for the production of essays on particu- lar subjects; among the latest of these prize essaj's, is one on the best method of Managing a Bush Farm, which appeared in July 1843. The ' Cultivator' published at Toronto, numbers among its contri- butors the best known and most spirited agriculturists in Canada, one of whom is the Honourable Adam Ferguson, late of Woodhill, Scotland ; and among its correspondents in England are Mr P. L. Simmonds, Lon- don, and Mr John llannam of North Deighton, Yorkshire, who gained the premium of fifty sovereigns, awarded by the Highland Society of (Scotland for the • Report of Experimr»nts on the Effects of Special Man- ures,* published in the Society's Transactions, March 1844. The Culti- vator is now edited by its proprietor, Mr W. G. Edmundson, an intelli- gent and respectable practical agriculturist. ' The most profitable business for Canadian farmers,' Sfiys the Culti- A'ator, ' is the making of butter and cheese. But little has been done in the production of these articles, and consequently there will be much room for improvement. In ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, the pro- I- 4 ,. Ft ; fc-^433ft T I •I M 1 '1 i \ i i' ill: HI 52 NOTES. coeds from the small surplus which the Canadian farmers have to sell of the above articles, go as a perquisite to the fanner's wife. It is not our business to And fault with such an arrangement, but we would just re- mind our brother- farmers of a fact which came under our notice a few weeks since. A Yorlishire farmer, wlio rents a farm seven miles north of this city [Toronto], and pays an annual rent of fifty pounds, infonned us that he only Iteeps ten cowa, nnd the profits from wliich, together with tlie sale of calves, pays the whole of his rent, and leaves a balance in the bar- gain. We examined his stocl<, wnd found them in comfortable winter- quarters, with an abundance of good hay, and cut oats, sheaf and brnn before them, and a good supply of clean straw under their feet for bed- ding. This farmer comes to town once a week regularly, with butter and other produce from his well-cultivated farm ; he also supplies a number of families with butter, cheese, &c., and sends his bill once a twelvo month — and by furnishing a good article, and observing strict punctuality, he always obtains the top price. This same individual came to this coun- try twelve years since, without any means, and by dint of perseverance and superior skill, he can now boast of having thousiiighain is situated upon the shore of Lake Krie, near the lower part of that lake, and joins the present Lou- don district at its most easterly townshij), liayham. It fonns part of a track commonly called in Canada, tlie Long Point Country, possessing a soil chiefly of a lightish sandy loam, intermixed with clay, and accounted among the most pleasant parts of Canada, it having been one of the first spots chosen by the body of United Empire Loyalists, who went into Canada, and received grants of land, under the protection of the British crown, at the period of the American Uevolutiou. Mr Backhouse, in his letter of 1817, thus wrote : — • I arrived at Niagara the 28th of July 1794, and was kindly received by the governor ; by this time I had spent the principal part of the money I had brought with me ; for out of 6(K>, I had left upwards of 300 guineas iu notes, to be collected by a relation who was in business, but was sht rtly b.aiiknipt after I left England, and I never received a shilling. By this time I became acquainted with the late Hon. Robert Hamilton, to v/hom I made my situation known, who instantly became my warm friend and Bujjporter. From him I rented a farm for seven years, for which I paid Lim 100 dollars per annum, lie lent me money to buy 20 cows, which cost 500 dollars. I had but one dollar left when I began farming ; my meat, grain for bread, seed for the land, farming utensils, &c. were all procured by me on a promise of payment in September, which amounted to about 500 dollars. 1 began making cheese the first of May 1795, which Euccecded beyond my expectation ; I seldom had in my dairy room any cheese that was more than three months old ; sold all I made for seven years, at \ dol. per lb., except one ton, which I sold, in 1802, for i dol. per lb. The field is still open : the price and market as good as ever. A dairy of 20 cows, well attended, will make the following amount, via. :— -.^1 • u I'-'i r>i NOTKS. Cheese throngli the summer season, Loose butter throughout tlie yeur, Twenty calves reared to the last November, Fifteen pigs fed with whey. Total profit one year. Dollars. 12 100 100 150 1550 (irass-fed beef here far exceeds our expectation the first sight we have of this country ; cattle will fat as well, and tallow better than in many parts of England. On being first assured of this by some of my countrymen. I did not credit the report, and, detenuined to linow by experience, I turned two lean oxen intoa small field, two acres and a half, the 10th day of April ; they had no other pasture nor feed of any kind ; and were killed the last day of November : — the four quarters of the first weighed 820 lb. and had 125 lb. tallow, the four quarters of the second weighed 785 lb. and had 115 lb. tallow. I then winter fatted four wethers, which were worth in the fall four dols. per head ; and they made me 18^ dols. per head. Winter feeding of cattle or sheep may be practised here with success, and will leave large profits ; but the principal objection to winter feeding is the want of labour ; yet turnips can be raised here without any manure, or even ploughing. Clear off new land, sow the seed the latter part of Juno, or beginning of July, and you get a crop of turnips without hoeing or any more trouble, and of as good quality as I ever saw.' [The price of dairy, as also other produce, at the period of the early settlement of Canada (as it is yet not unfrequently in the early stages of isolated new settlements), has been usually materially higher than the general average price now, and these many years back. The market price of butter in the towns of Western Canada may be stated to be usually about from 5d. to 8d. per lb. fresh, and salted at slightly lower prices — that exported having averaged in Britain in 1843 about from 4^d. to 6d., and the small quantity of cheese exported rated about from M. to 5d. The finer sorts of American cheese bringing good prices in Britain, holds out encouragement to Canada dairy farmers.] ^ STATE 01' EDUCATION'. 65 FOURTH LETTER. state of Education throughout Western Canada— Causes of its generally Depressed State — Act of Legislature for the Support of Schools — Pro- vision of the Act to obviate Religious Scruples — Schools and Attend- ance in the London District — Collegiate Institutions in Western Cana- da—University of King's College, Toronto — University of Queen's Col- lege, Kingston — Victoria College, Cobourg— Courses of Instruction, Fees, and Remarks — Condition of Canada favourably changed in re- gard to Means of Education within the last few Years — No I'rovision for Agricultural Education, a great Want in Canada — Particular l)e- scr'^tion of the London District continued — General Appearance of the I ountry — Cultivated Settlement — Scene in the Bush — The Laiie- Sliore Townships, Farms, Houses, Gardens — Harbours, Ports Stanley, nmwell, Talbot — Colonel Talbot's Residence and Settlement — Heau- tiful Scenery — Talbot Anniversary — Town of St Thomas. Notes :— New School Act— l^niversity Rill— American Doolvsaud Teachers in Canada — The Lake-Shore Townships. London, Canada, 1«43. Education, notwithstanding legislative efforts which have existed from an early period in the settlement of Western Canada to the present time, continues still in a very unsatisfac- tory state. This is no doubt much owing to the great stretch of country, thinly populated, and without sufficient means to plant and support the large number of schools required in a country so situated during its early stages of existence. Among a great proportion of the population, too, comprising chiefly a class of the older settlers, and the humbler class of emigrants ^ i r 0^: :':.^4 M f 'U 1 !■ III ■■ if. Hi i.ij ' 1- ■ iJ:' ifr , ' i''' ' h 1 1 1 i I 'iri ' :||i' * 11 ''''' 1 St'i i li i AH STATE OF EDUCATION. from Britain, the benefits of education arc but indifferently appreciated ; and where there is found, as is the case in the coun- try rarts, joined with this apathy, some foundation for indulging it, on account of long and bad roads for the children, and also the early value of their services in the work of the farm, it is not much matter of surprise to see the roadside school-house thinly attended and the schoolmaster not at all an individual the beat qualified for his duties. I do not remember an instance of having journeyed through the country without witnessing evidences of this depressed state of education. A school-house is approached entirely closed for want of encouragement to support even the most ordinary sort of teacher ; another is found, supporting, by a scanty allowance, some pains-living industrious woman, an imperfectly self-educated youth, or a worn-out bu;. well-disposed old man. Exceptions, I know there are, of men in their vigour, and possessing qualifications, devoting their lives tn the ill-re- quited task of schoolmaster. The respectability ever attaching in some degree, even in the least encouraging circumstances, to the ofiice, and the exemption its duties afford from the rougher forms of toil, which usually attract individuals to the occupation more than the mere reward of money wages, have perhaps contributed less in Canada than in most countries to advance education. Here, in almost every other kind of occupation, wages are moderately high, and the ultimate reward to per- severing industry a degree of independence, a consequence of which state of things is, that a comparatively limited competi- tion, and of an indifferent kind, is presented for the all too poorly remunerated and dependent office of teacher. Our older set- tled neighbours on the frontier, the Americans, having a fuller share of the class, whose inclinations prefer the office, provided it can afford tolerable livelihood, Canada has mostly all along had from this source a large supply of teachers. So far as the merest rudiments of education, reading, writing, and so forth, are con- cerned, the country may be said to be indebted to American teach- ers ; but when you come to reflect that Americans naturally LEGISLATIVE SllTOUT OF SCHOOLS. 57 pivjugh brought with thein dctnocratic priiu'lples, joiiit'd with virulunt dislikes of the monarchial principles of governmrjif, and being many of them inen not always scrupulous of the use they madv of their inlluenee, it is not too much to say that, in a political view, the employment of such teachers in a British colony must be productive of harm. It is most likely, however, that the greater number of such appointments have been le^s a niatter of choice than of necessity with the people, and to whom the political view, when it was at all considered, gave little if any uneasiness. Having spoken thus generally of the most pro- minent circumstances affecting the progress of education throughout the country parts, I will merely now remark with respect to the towns, that the state of things, as might be ex- pected, is there more favourable. I will now present to you some outline of details. I mentioned that the Government have all along employed means to support education, but Canada being a young colony, possessed of only partial ability in the form of money to extend educational benefits over a large surface of thinly-peopled coun- try, the results of these efforts have as yet been correspondingly partial. The law which at present supports public instruction throughout Canada was passed in the legislative session of 1841. It provides that the proceeds of land, already, or which may here- after be granted by the Legislature or other authority, should be created into a permanent fund for the support of common schools, to be known as the common-school fund. It sets aside the sum of X50,000 currency a-year to be apportioned among the municipal districts of the country, the number of which districts in Western Canada being, as you know, seventeen. The District Councils— those popularly elected municipal bodies, whi<;h were estab- lished by Lord Sydenham, and may be likened to your town councils, only presiding over the interests of more extended territories — these bodies are for the purposes of this School Act, constituted Boards of Education, and are directed to di vide the lesser divisions of their districts, the townships or m T^V ; -r 5U LEGiSLA'lIVE SLi>rOKT OF SCHOOLS. il'- !-i!^ parishes, into more minute divisions, to be called Hcliool districts, and to apportion umon^ these the district share of fl.r school fund, allowiuf;!: to each, township or parish a sum not ex- ceeding £10 for the purchase of hooks, and alao to assess tin- iiihabitantjj for building a school house, and to make an annua' report of their proceedings. Besides the district councils there are subsidiary bodies, called common-school conunissiontT'^, elected by the township« or jtarishes, for the purpose of carry- ing on the more local machinery of the Act. These commis- sioners are from five to seven in number, and (he duties aj)- pointed them are various and minute. They select a site for a Kchool house, estimate the expense of building, appoint and remove teachers, regulate the course of study and the books to be used, and establish general rules for the conduct of the schools, and communi'^' them in writing to the teachers. Two or more of them arc o visit each school in their township or j-arish once a month at least ; and they are directed to re- pori annually to the district council respecting the state of the school, number and proficiency of scholars, and the character and ability of the teachers, and other matters of interest. Besides these two bodies, the district councils and the com- missioners, there is a chief superintendent appointed by tlu- governor, whose duty is to apportion the general funds amoufz the municipal districts, according to the number of children, from five to sixteen years of age, to visit the districts annually, and examine the condition of the schools, to prepare forms for reports, to address suggestions which may introduce uniformity into the system, and to receive the several distri(rt reports, and to submit an annual report of his own to the governor, re- presenting the general condition and working of the system. Such is a kind of skeleton view of the most prominent machinery of our common school system of education in Canada. Those warring grounds, which mostly in every country are found to throw impediments in the way of almost every conciev- able system of popular instruction— the religious scruples of the \ URMGlorS SCRirLFS OEVIATKI). r>9 various sects — nre thus disposed of hero: — Whenever the iii- haliitants of any township or parish, professing a religious faith dirt'erent from that of the majority of the inhabitants, shall dis- tient from the arrangement of the eommis-^iont'rs, with reft rence to any nehool, the dittsentientt* signifying such to the diiitrict eouncil, with names of persons elected by them a.s trustees, such trustees, conforming to the duties of commissioners, are allowed to establish and maintain schools, and to receive a share of the general funds. The value of a provision of this kind is no less liberal than important in a country inhabited such as Canada is by people from many various countries, and professing every variety of creed ; indeed, it is not possible to expect a system of public instruction to be successfully carried (in without liberal concessions to opinions and creeds, provided always that the leading objects and design of education re- cof/nised by all be steadily kept in view. Besides the commis- sioners and trustees for the country, there are, for incorporattd towns and cities, from six to fourteen per-ons appointed by the governor as Boards of Examiners, who shall exercise a check u[»()n the powers of the local incorporations in the election of teachers. These boards consist of an equal number of Catholics and Protestants, and dividing themselves into two departments, one over the schools attended by Catholic children, the other over the Protestant schools, they exercise the privileges of re- gulating the schools and courses of study in the same manner as the commissioners and trustees do in the country schools. '1 he total amount of fees paid by children attending the common schools is Is. 3d. currency, or Is. sterling a-month ; and 10 jioor children in each school district are allowed exetnptinti troni this sum. You perceive, now, that we have a recognised basis of public instruction, which, if imperfect in some of its cit'tails, as allowedly it is at present, and insufficient to confer all the benefits desired, may yet in time be the means of bestowing advantages solid and lasting, of which Canada may have reason to be proud. M eo STATISTICS OF EDUCATION. lit • I i i In MVM) — the population of Western Canada at whieh period wa.s 4."i(),0()() — tiiere were over HOO common schools, and the number of children receiving instruction in these was esti- mated at 21,000, which shows 1 pupil for every IM inhabitants receiving public instruction. In Scotland the proportion, as you are aware, was, in H).'J4, 1 in 10 ; in Switzerland, 1 in A ; and in Prussia, 1 in 6. Of Kiiroixjan countries, France and Ireland come nearest to the proportion in Canada — the former having 1 pupil in 17 inhabitants, and the latter I in 18. Hl'lJl, however, was a disturbed year in Canada by reason of the civil outbreaks, which then, and for sometime after, unhinged the tone and action of society. Statistics since that time would present a more fa- vourable account. The present School Act of 1841, however, owing to imperfections in its details, still keeps matters behind. It was a piece of well-meant but hasty legislation — the bill ap- parently having been hastily drawn up, and it is known to have been hastily passed amid the bustle at the close of a session. This district of London, containing over 9000 children be- tween the ages of five and sixteen years, receives about £1000 sterling of the common-school fund. To make up an equal sum, the district council assess the inhabitants to the amount of three-fourths of a penny upon every pound value of their property, besides the fee of Is. a-quarter required from each scholar. Owing to the misapprehension caused by the imperfect detail of the Act, out of 1/7 school districts in the municipal district of London, above 50 of these have their schools closed, and the attendance in the remaining 120 amounts to about 4000 scholars. The common branches of reading, writing, and arithmetic, are chiefly taught in the common schools of the country. The towns supply chiefly the higher branches. The district or high school in the town of London is conducted by a lead master and assistant. There are, besides, in the towns, young ladies' boarding and day schools, conducted by respect- able and aconiplished families, where the usual solid and orna- mental branches are taught as with yourselves in Britain. \ COLLFlfilATK INSTITITIONS. (11 l^oard nntl tuition in these scHooIh nrefre(iuently charged about i'r> a-(|uurfer, or IVuui X'2() to i.'2.5 a year. Having ])re«ented you with this outline of the ineann of f.rene- riil education, I will now only very hiiefly all.ide to the colU- j^iate education within the western division of liie colony. In Western Canada, there are already established — the Uni- versity at 'I'oronto, which includes King's College and Upjier Canada College, the University of Queen's College situated at Kingston, and Victoria College at Cobourg. The first of these, the Toronto University, is liberally endowed from public lands ; the value of its asset-s in 1 JISD amounting to above £'A 1 .'>,()()() cur- rency, jC24G,000of which belonged to King's College, and the re- mainder, of above £72,000, to Upuer Canada College. The esti- mate of the annual income of the University for 1039 amounted to above X'HOOO. This University was founded in the province when the Church of England was considered to be the established colonial church ; and its aflairs have been chiefly under the control of that Church, but the large proportion of IVinby- terians, Wesleyan Methodists, and other respectable bodies, increasing in numbers and influence, and gaining ascendency in the popular Legislature, this restricted control has been modi- tied since the original charter was granted, and it is probable that recent efforts to throw aside remaining restrictions will be suc- cessful. The building of King's College is at present in opera- tion, situated within pleasantly laid out grounds, and promises to l>e a fine structure of hewn stone, and to prove a chief ornament to the fast growing, and comparatively wealthy city of Toronto. Upper Canada College has been some years in operation ; be- sides the Principal, the Rev. John M'Caul, L.L.D., there are lour professors for the mathematics and classics, and six masters for the preparatory school, for French and for geo- metrical and ornamental drawing. The fees for day pupils at the preparatory school are £6 currency a-year ; at the college, £9; and boarders pay in all £30 currency, or about £25 ster- ing; ornamental drawing, being an optional branch, is charged extra, about 16s, a-quarter. About two years ago there were hi "•V X 6'i ( OLLEGIATE INSriTLTIONS. it: it! lit 4 «!1 •A ' I' ^ KiO pu})ils in attendance at Upper Canada College. The Ciii- versity of Queen's College, situated at Kingston, received it> rharter in 1H41 , as an institution in connection with the Church of Scotland, and to be conducted as nearly after the model of the Scottish Universities as the circumstances of the country would permit. The principal is the Rev. Dr Liddell, late of Edinburj^^h, who teaches Theology, Church History, and He- hrt'w, and there are to be four other professors. Those at pre- sent are the Ilev. P. C. Campbell, M.A., Edinburgh, Pro- fessor of Classical Literature, and the Rev. James William- son, M.A., Edinburgh, Professor of Mathematics and Natural Philosophy. The matriculation fee is £1 currency, or about 16s. sterling, and the fees for each of the classes £2 currency. The students may either board out, or they are received into the families of the professors. The funds for the support of this Scottish University in Canada, as we may term it, were chiefly pro- cured by subscription. The subscriptions in Canada amounted to £1.5,000, with donations in lands equal in value to £1200; in Britain there were subscribed £1500, and the Colonial Committee of the Church of Scotland engaged to provide £i'>000 towards the payment of the salary of the principal, the nomination of the principal being vested in this committee. Besides the above resources the University has a claim upon Kings College to the amount of £1000 a-year, and it is ex- pected that a liberal grant or endowment will be allowed by the Legislature of Canada. The buildings of Queen's Col- lege are designed to cost £15,000. The institution, which opened its first session in 1840, is at present provided with tem|iorary accommodation. Victoria College, founded at Co- bouig, in connection with the Wesieyan Methodist Confer- ence, was opened two years ago. It is under the superinten- dence of five professors, and includes both a preparatory school and college. In this institution are taught the elementary branches, the Classics, French, Algebra, Mathematics, Conic Sections, Rhetoric, Natural History, Natural Theology ; and IMPROVING CONDITIOX OF CANADA. fi;{ courses of lectures are delivered on Chemistry, Natural Philoso- phy, Classical ar d Biblical Literature. There is a commercial (hpartment, intended for boys and young men, who have made some progress in elementary studies, but who are not to engage in the Classical course — avery commendable feature in an insti- tution of this kind, as it is so well adapted to the circumstances of a country like Canada. The pupils of this department have a thorough preparation imparted to them for active busi- ness, either as merchants, engineers, or mechanics. The charges of tuition at Victoria ColUge are for the term of 11 weeks — regular division, £2 currency ; junior division, £1, 10s. ; pre- paratory school, £1 ;>ommercial department, £1 , 5s. Board is charged separately, £22, 6s. currency a-year. This institu- tion, previous to its incorporation as a college, was invested with a corporate character as an academy in 1036, and its history is remarkable as being ' the first institution of the kind established by Royal Charter, unconnected with the Church of England, throughout the British Colonies.' The college is assisted by votes of the Colonial Leglislature. The principal is the Rev. Egerton Ryerson, D.D. Such is a sketch of the means of education in Western Canada, and I hope the particulars may not have tired you. I might have been fuller, I '^ xt at the risk of being all too lengthy and tedious, and more brief, but that might have been comparatively us-.cles and unintelligible. The rise of these collegiate institu- tions, which we have glanced at, all within the period of a v3ry few years, is an index of the growing condition of this country, and of a stage in its advancement which very many at home ;ire not aware, I dare say, of its having reached. All along the ■chores of Lake Ontario, where these advanced educational institutions are now in active operation, t'aere appeared, within living remembrance, an unbroken line to the waters' edge of drear silent forest. The gay city of Toronto — with its wealthy shops, stately and crowded churches, paved and gas-lightep streets, public walks, societies, clubs, charitable institutions, v- - h ii'' r i 1 u ] ■ : lit;' iir' «4 SINGULAR WANT OF AGRICULTURAL EDUCATION. and its 20,000 inhabitants, entitling it to the name of * Queen City of the Lake' — was, but some ten years ago, the small town of York, with 4000 or .5000— < dirty little York' as it was called — so you perceive what was Canada in your Geographies ij« very different from Canada as now existing. In leaving the subject of education, one is led to make the remark, how singular it is, that, in a country so purely agri- cultural as Canada, which may fitly enough be compared to one great farm, the trades and professions being but the employed agents of the farmers, there is not in one of its educational in- stitutions means provided for any instruction either in the theor}' or practice of agriculture. The obvious consequence is, that this important art suffers — and it is indeed far behind in Canada— and being more carried on at hap-Uazard than otherwise, its le- gitimate dignity is greatly lost in mere drudgery, uninformed and ])rejudiced. People, whose circumstances will at all allow it, are led to give their sons what is termed a liberal education, which most frequently means, spending some yoai^ upon Latin and Greek, and their being able, in most cases, in after-life, to decline pe/uta, and conjugate afnc, instead of much mon^ honourably, as well as interestingly, employing those mosr precious years to investigate the properties of the hidd '' 'f ■ 1 \\\ A ■^- ||r| 11". f gj ' f ^ .9 'I ' «- f Vl^'l 111 CyC, IMfTURF. OF A SEITLKMENT. self in a large long opening, or ' clearance,' of about a mile in width, bounded on each side as far as the eye reaches by the tall dark forest, serving as a kind of bold magnificent fringe to the more tame, cultivated, yet somewhat rough-like scene between, with its fields, some of them dotted with 'stumps' like so many dark stone boulders scattered over, at distances from 10 to 20 feet apart, and there is the temporary zig-zag rail-fences of these square fields ; and then almost close upon each side of the wide road of about 60 feet, and placed at intervals of every quarter mile or less, rise the settlers' farm-houses, with their huge wooden bams in which they house all their grain ; and there is the primitive, rather rough, unmade road itself, on which you are travelling through this all so novel scene, choos- ing betimes a more leve. grassy bit of this broad road for more easy travel, now wearying your eyes on the long strange vista of the rude forest fringed scene — now admiring a neat white painted cottage of an enterprising settler, with its shrubbery and flowers — again vexed, meeting a slo^enly-looking log- house of some equally indolent people, with the we-^^her- beaten straw-hats mending, with their way, the brok«.'ii win- dows, and neglected children sprawling about the doors. Next you pass the humble little school-house, and the unpretending plain religious meeting-house. Here the eye falls on one slight but touchingly interesting object, a solitary grave-slab (of wood, not stone), meekly rising from the lowly grave-mound near an old established looking settler's homestead, its simple lettered story upon the white painted board telling of one or more breaches in the family since it came there ; and further o)iwar(i, again, in a quiet hollow nook by a clear running streani, you come upon a neatly-fenced square plot, waving with long grass, and the plain and humble monuments, all new-like and of late date, and, but as yet, thinly sprinkled over it. Such is the kind of scene which you often meet in this young New World country. Should it be a newer "r more backward settlement vou visit, SCENE I\ THE BL'SII. 67 instead of the wide-cultivated opening and comfortable farn\- limises liereand there, this changed scene, of rougher forest road, with the trees, tall and close, upon each side of you, will only pro-ient now and then, at long intervals, the sign of any sort of dwelling. You come all of a sudden upon .some little log- hoiiJie or shanty, and around it the small plot of an acre or so (if a 'clearance.' The settler has but commenced to fight his way in this wild 'bush.' As you pass, you are all eyes to survey the curious scene,— the pent-up little beginning of a farm, scarce having enough of the breath and light of day amid that over-hanging and surrounding dense forest. Yet, again, looking closer, you do not think, after all, the hermit-place either so lonely or so gloomy as you might suppose. The light smoke rurling up from the humble wooden house, the laugh of the children playing about, the chimes or rather sweet clinking ^A' tho oow-bell, and, uppermost sound and lightsomest sight of nil, the doughty vigorous strokes of the settler's axe making the ^voods all around to ring, or quake, as you would think, in affright of their impending fate. This little ' clearance,' a« they call it, what a very medley of confusion it is ! Stately trees, of beech and elm, that have fallen, with their great green branches broken, spreading their unwieldy lengths across the plot, amid freshly-topped ' stumps,' and lopped branches, and masses of trunks, lying about in all directions, and of all sizes. One would think that the bushman, ere he made a ' clearance' of this yet, would have enough to do. But he has encourage- ments cheerfully to persevere. You observe among the fallen trees, and confusion of branches, and remains of trunks, the vigorous fresh appearance of the grass, the scatterings of hjxuriant wild-flowers, and even the weeds — all which tell, along with the great growth of those beeches, eVnns, and maples, of the fertility of the soil did even the small patches of torn surface not show you the rich black mould itself. So fheered with all this and more, the stout-hearted axeman will < 'It up, and collect into hvMips, and burn thi* confusion of wood, ■t i - Hi ! r illii 1.1- ; Ij n; !'• ■ 1 i' ' ' ; ■ ■ \: ■ .' 8, ... .... 'I \* es TRAVELLING Til ROUGH THK BUSH. and in no longtime, too, will make a thorough ' clearance ;' and thus enlarging his plot, and fighting his way into the woods, his hopes will be kept up respecting the future farm, and its reward to him in after years, for his own toilsome beginnings, and the family's privations and hermitage in the *bush.' Having so noted the more prominent features of the secluded scene, pursuing your journey, you find yourself once more between the boundary of forest close upon each side. And when, amid other thoughts, you have at length allowed to pass from your mind the clearance of the bold and hardy bush- settler, yon have suddenly your attention arrested to listen to a slow rustling noise, in the distance backward, as if among the leaves high over-head in the forest — it is one of the trees falling beneath our settler's axe : the rustling among the leaves and lesser branches continues on the ear, and becomes more rapid and distinct, and next a crash-crash-ing among the larger branches as it goes, making way for itself through al! obstacles, till — resounding through the whole forest — the giant thundering falls, awakening all the echoes. Advancing onw\ards again between the solitary woods, your observation is restricted to note the lesser, yet not always unpleasing detail, which the forest-road furnishes. Having got into a tract of 'pine woods,' we may continue for miles without seeing a house, there being little in the light sandy soil, which pine trees ever indicate to invite settlers, and, besides, the resinous roots of the pine remain so many years in the ground until they decay, to the great annoyance of the farmer. A border of scrubby brushwood, and younger trees of several sorts, stretch along each side of the road, and give relief to the dark tou ering pines, rising with their straight and massy trunks to the height of from 100 to 150 feet ! Some o' them you may perceive by the numerous tapped |holes froin the bill of the wood-pecker, like riddlings of buck-shot against tl r forest giants, which tell of long age and the decay going on within the great trunks. And hear, the hollow tap-tap of the strong-bille i ;':ti. TRAVELLING THKOUGII THE BUSH. CD bird, himself hopping pertly round and round the trees, in the pride of his pay coat of purple and white, and glossy hlack. Among the slender trees of the bush-road border — which has been formed on each side of the road by there having been a line of pines removed to admit the free circulation of air — there is a clusrcrinp of the wild May cherry, with its small white flowers ill full blossom ; and young shnibby pines, larches and cedars interspersed, appearing above the long grass ; clumps of light poplar, the tiny leaves fresh blown, and fluttering in the gentle, almost still, air ; the more robust balsam poplar, called here the balm of Gilead tree for the repute of its buds, an infusion of which being esteemed as a bitter ; and, scattering among all, are various sorts of bushes, brambles, and raspberries ; and a little off the edge of the road, free from the intrusion of tramp- ling feet, there is the wild-bush lily in its pure white, and now and then, more or less, tinted with delicate peach hue ; and nearer to the road and shielding itself, close by the stump of an old pine, that brave little flower, showing itself early and near to trodden paths, the wild violet, or heart's case. Such is a specimen of the kind of road-side objects with which, in the new interior parts of Canada., you have to gratify your observation in the manner you best can as you journey along. You may meet at times laden waggons with merchandise for the country stores onwards in the interior, or returning with loads of wheat or other produce, to one of the Lake harbours. Or the object you meet maybe an antiquated lumbering stage- coach, lurching amid the deep ruts, or wending slowly through the heavy sand of the roads, or thump thumping over the suc- cession of round logs, laid crossways, forming the ' corduroy- road,' or, it may be, winding up the side of a deep ravine, the chief of the passengers out walking, to ease the horses, and to stretch themselves ; or the mail-stage, for such it is with its four fine animals of horses, may be scudding along upon some smooth even surfcice, the young driver-lad whistling and talking to his horses, calling each by its name, aud smacking about, and 1 1 \S. '< I !'! ;o FAKMEUS IIOIJSKS. m mi ^ m i Hi ! ^ III I A 1 curving, in the pride of his art, his long-lash whip. \ au will meet with few foot passengers, possibly a Scotch plouj^hnian or tradesman, with knapsack or bundle upon his stiifF, and slung over his shoulder, travelling in search of employment. Or you may meet a Highland family from Argyleshire (there being many art of Canada) now supplies the inhabifcmts with the most appiv^ved varieties of fruit-trees, shrubs, and flower-:. ',t 72 UARBOUKS OF LAKK KUIH. The lake-shore townships we were spciking of, are favourt i with as good natural harbours ati there are along the wholo north shore of Lake Erie — the best, perhaps, if we except thf Grand River near the foot, and the Rondeau towards the head of the lake. Port Stanley, in the township of Southwold, is the chief harbour of the district. Its distance from the town of London, you will remember I mentioned, was twenty-fivo miles. It is situated at the mouth of a narrow but rather full and deep stream, where it approaches the lake, and cuts the high sand-banks. Substantial stone piers are now being com- pleted at the expense of the province; and the present little village, with its half-dozen shops, church, and mills, bids fair — should it not be cramped by the narrow policy of those holding the land on its site — to be at no distant time a place of considerable importance. The revenue from duties on im- ports from the United States, collected here in 1839, ranked the fourth largest in the Upper Province, having amounted to £1163 currency, or upwards of £900 sterling. Toronto, which collected nearly £5000 sterling, was the highest, and next, Kingston and Hamilton. A steam-boat runs regularly between Port Stanley and the opposite A merican port of Buffalo, thus affording a good means of conveyance for the numbers of persons who take the New York route forCanadn, proceeding up the Hudson river to Albany, and thence to Buffalo by canal or railroad. Having started from New York in a morning by steam-boat to Albany, and choosing the rail- road to Buffalo, persons may find themselves on the third day in the London district in Canada. The other harbours of the district are Port Burwell in Bay- ham township, and Port Talbot in Dunwich ; the first situated down and the other up the lake from Port Stanley. Port Bur- well is an agreeably situated village upon the elevated banks of the lake, with a full deep stream, having prettily wooded banks, flowing past it. This stream, called the Big Otter Creek, is navigable, with a depth of twelve feet, for about two miles \ RESIDENTr: OF COLONKL TALBOT. m up, where there is the siiuill viU;ij;c of Vienna, silnatnl in a wiiiiling and pleasant valley. There are several mills here, and a liinihcrin'j; business is carried on with the United States by means of scliooners, which take their earf^oes of j>ine boardH t) t'le opposite port of Cleveland, in the state of Ohio. Port Talbot, as you may know, is in the vicinity of the residence of the eelebrated and eccentric Colonel Talbot, to whose exer- tions and example, since he settled in a wilderness here about f )rty years ago, considerable merit is due for the change the set lu' has undergone into clusterings of farms and villages. Tlli^ spot of the Colonel's residence is romantic and beautifully nituii'ed— one possessing greater natural beauties, and more rciiiinding me of the sites of the linest seats at home, than any I liad seen in Canada. It was a delightful summer day on which 1 visited it; and entering by a prepossessing gateway leading otf the good main road, I found myself in a spacious, noble- looking avenue. As far as I could see, there was the wide road wiih its grassy margin, and overhanging and bordering each eidewas the luxuriant and shady recesses of the tall, deep, old ftrost. I dn "d th* reins on my pony's neck, and the ex(]uisite iiungery of e of those rich portions of Spencer's Fai-ry Queen flowing on Hi recollect on, translated this far western spot of vijung Canada luto a scene of hallowed old English ground: — • A shady grove * * * AN'hose lofty trees, 'yclad with summer's pride, Did spread so broad, that hoMven's light did hide.' Here, methouj^lit, might have been the fair Una, when * One day, tii'h Vtiary of t! irksome wjiy, From liev unlmsty beast she did aliglit ; And on the gm^s her dainty limbs did lay, In oecret shadow, far from all men's sight ; I'roin her fair hair her fillet she imdight, And laid her stole a^-ido : her angel's face. As the great eye of Heaven, shined bright. And made a sunshine in the slndy place ; Did never mortal eye behold such heavenly grace. f Mm i 1 .V*:,. j^.r^; IMAGE EVALUATflON TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 1.25 |50 "^"l itt liii 12.2 2f 1^ ■■■ lit 140 ■ 2.0 1.8 U 11.6 %' /2 '"^j^ /: ^r /A Photograpiuc Sdences Corporation ,-\ 4^ fv :\ \ ^^^ 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 ■«v' [/. %0 o^ !V '\ id 74 THE FUTURE OF CANADA. Having reached a winding of the avenue, I was led by a gentle ascent and crescent-sweep to a view of the open grounds, where sheep and horned cattle were grazing in numbers. Descending into a flat grassy vale through which a stream flowed, I crossed a bridge ; and on gaining the top of the opposite bank, a range of a fine park presented it^self, and at its extremity^ overlooking the lake, I perceived the dwelling of the old Colonel. I was struck by the grand view of the lake here ; in a little I found myself standing on the edge of the lofty and steep bank overlooking the expanse of waters, with- out speck or ruffle, as they were thiit day, and a light haze bounding the farthest view. The slight motion of the lake laving the foot of the bank was all — as I stood some moments entranced by the scene, with its calm stillness — that fell upon the ear. While turning towards the humble hermit-dwelling of the man with bold heart and nerve, who had subdued a mighty wilderness, and saw growing up around him the begin- nings of a new country he had aided so to plant — the flitting fani 'es of an imagination winging into the far future, pre- sented, instead of the homely cottage, a magnificent mansion, and all detail in keeping with the noble-looking grounds, and the grandeur of the expanded lake. I thought I could con- ceive, too, looking along its shores, the distant rising of smoke as if from a mighty city. But the views vanished, and the regret came instead — who has not had such a regret ? — that one could not live to see the full growth of those beginnings, he could only, when having to part with them for ever, witness the early healthful promises. I directed my steps towards the exceedingly plain dwelling of the Colonel, who, with his man JaflFrey, I found at home. You have heard, I daresay, something of Colonel Talbot's gruff manners and eccentric habits, and you have had the kindly- hearted Mrs Jameson represent him more lavourably. I dis- like being the retailer of gossip where it serves no worth pur- pose, but in its spirit and tendency causing imperfect details ling TOWN OK ST THOMAS. to to take the place of fuller and healthier views. This I knovr best of Colonel Talbot, that the two chief towns of the district, London and St Thomas, vie vith each other which shall most worthily celebrate the anniversary of his birth. In London this past winter we had a gay ball in honour of the event^ at which townspeople and country folks of all parties, joined by the officers of two regiments comprising the garrison, kept it mer- rily up, and the old man himself — I daresay over seventy now — tripped about as lightly as any. The good people of St Thomas Jind around it, which is more in the neighbourhood of the Colonel, never miss ' The Talbot Anniversary ' a single year, but keep the day as one specially marked out. I trust that you forgive me this long digression, and I assure you the subject is one which a sketch of the London district ought well to bear, and would be imperfect without. Indeed the name, beside the Talbot, is one much connected with the earliest histories of the district. It was a Talbot, and of Irish birth too, who first settled London township. With a passing notice now of St Thomas, the chief town of the Lake-shore townships, I will have to close this rather lengthy letter. St Thomas, in Southvvold township, occupies an elevated platform, formed by the steep banks of the Kettle Creek, and is distant eight miles from Port Stanley, and seventeen from London. The population may be about a thousand. There are several churches, numbers of good shops, and the agencies of two banks are established. There was a disastrous fire occurred in it the winter before last, which destroyed a portion of the most valuable quarter of the town, in the chief street where business is carried on ; but it will be the means, most likely, of substituting brick buildings for wooden. One very large brick building has been erected for a store by Mr John M'Kay, who came from Scotland a number of years ago, and settled here. Mr M'Kay 's store, which is completed in the most substantial manner, with stone-built cellars, firc-proof m 4. V;j:. ^:^:J <•» • i:J IW liU *v 76 hCTKS. sat'fs, and in general appearance much like your own town hhops, is the largest, I believe, in the district ,and affords somo token of the growth and enterprise of this quarter of Western Canada. Having not overtaken the town:^hips of the interior, I shall have to defer some notice of them to my next ktier. if is II NOTES. 7 >;■■ ' ■ New School Act. A new Act for the support of common school eilucation in Westeru Cuiiiula, which passed during the last session of the Colonial Legislature, remedies the more obvious defects of the measure of 1S41. This Act, besides, contemiilates the establishment of a provincial normal ,and county model schools, for the training of teachers, and for the diffusion of a uniform system of teaching throughout the country. It also provides fc>r the appointment of a superintendent of education in each county and town, besides continuing the office of Chief Superintemdent for Western ('anada. The duties of these county and town superintendents cliitHy consist in exercising a general supervision of the schools within thtir jurisdiction, and acting as a check upon school trustees in the appointment of teachers. Having a reference to the employment of United States citi- Bens as teachers in Canada, which prevailed to a considerable extent in the province, the local superintendents arc not allowed ' to grant any certificate to any person as a teacher of a common school, who shall not be a na- tural born or naturalised subject of her Majesty.' A result of this new net will be a general improvement in the state of education throughout C'ai?!i}ule travelling between the towns of Cobourg, situated on Lake '>n- tiuio, and Belleville, at tlie head of the Bay of Quinte, I had an oppor- tunity of coming in contact with a young man, who, in the course of con- versation, became known to me as a citizen of the State of New Yorii, and a teacher of one of our Government common schools in Canada. It was a pleasant May morning, when, having started from the neat, quiet- looking town of Cobourg, in the light open mail waggon, with a pair of horses, I found the only companion of my journey, besides the driver, was a young man, who, from his appearance, might be from 18 to 22. years of age. After having busily occupied myself observing with satis- faction the substantial and respectable stone-built houses and pretty church, which adorn the eastern end of the town we were passing througli. .and the well- cultivated country beyond, with its ornamental scattering of trees, so unlike this new country, and so like home, I was recalled from my busy train of obsen'ations by an animated conversation between the driver and my fellow passenger. The topic was the Toronto races, which had just taken place, and irom which my fellow passenger was now returning, after having, as it appeared, taken particularly minute inte- rest in them. He was describing to the driver the various horses which ran, vrith their respective successes or failures, and ail with such easy mi- liuteaess, and use of the phraseology common to the turf and the stable. V . '^ ^- '4 Ml ■♦ ' 1 m '^ I I't 7^ soiEy, tliat I was tempted to speculate within myself as to wha; prcfession or cmiiloymont my companion belonged to. lie had in his tall\ and general itumner that i)ert vivacity which uneducated Americans sho.v, and wa« jutiier resi)ectably dressed, somewliat between the style of a farmer's son in his best suit, and a town's youth in easy circumstances. My curiosity was soon set at rest, f'^r my fellow traveller proved to be a communicative \oung American, and, lilie the generality of his countrymen, conversed respecting his own affairs in a very free manner, and became rather an agreeable road-companion. He belonged, as he mentioned, to the State of Now Yorlt, and had come to Canada uppn a visit to his friends ; and f.irtlier on in conversation, it appeared that, by the advice of his friends, he had consented to become a teacher in Canada, in which capacity, in one of the Government common schools of a neighbouring township, he bad l)een for some time acting. Making inquiries respecting the result of his experience and observation, which his occupation might have af- forded, I was very particular to watch (from what 1 frequently before heard rumoured regarding the matter) what this young man would tell me of the nature of the books used in his school. The result proved what . indeed, I had feared it would — they were all pure American publications in print and authorship ; most probably the same kind of works which had been used by the youth himself at the Government schools of the neigh- bouring Republic, in the State of New York ; — American spelling-books, American grammars, American dictionaries, American histories,— some one's History of the United States, from the discovery of Columbus to the conclusion of the last tear with Great Britain in 1S15, with continuation , fSfC, to the Presidency of , Sfc. ^e. While this catalogue of the course of instruction for some portion of the youth of our British provinces was being gone over, I could not help, as one naturally might, being led into a train of unpleasant feelings and curious speculation. I felt relieved, however, by considering that the case was now-a-days not so bad as it once ?vas, and that the growing spirit and intelligence, shown in various forms of improvement in the country, would most likely soon be able to remedy a state of things which substituted a knowledge, and, in some degree, a regard for political institutions, of a character very opposite to those which slioiild prevail and be cherished in this noble colony. To understand fully the objections to persons from the United States teaching in Canada, and to their books being used, it is to be remem.bered, among other considera- tions, that in the books of geography and maps of the Republic, its own territories, to even its small villages, are minutely described and displayed on a scale of disproportioned advantage to the little known and undescribed stripe of their frontier country, Canada ; that in the histories which the United States people have most in use, there are an undue and peculiarly i V NOTES. :.') strong, though it mnybeanatural enough, bias to Iheirown institutions, ar.d .1 conspicuous illibemlity to our luouarchical principles, which they threw aside, and against whicli their still too popular war party talie frequent op- portunities to rail ;— and that in the mass of their literature there is obser- vable an iuiporfect and a vitiated taste, cornipting, with rashly coined words, tlie vigoui and beauty of the language. The influence to which the schools of our colony have been exposed from all this, and in the absence of otJier books and other teachers than Canada has had all too long, may ver>' easily be conceived. And had it not been that the use of either United .States teachers or books more arose from necessity than any free choice, and has been somewhat counteracted by the very hearty dislikes and preju- dices being not altogether one-sided — as such near neighbours have pretty uninterruptedly kept up their mutual enmity ever since the violent and bloody quarrels of the old revolutionary and last wars— individuals who know Canarev:iilu(l to lay ojten the country for settleuient, and then only partially. 'I ho soil, like that of Aldborough, is doscrihed as being of the lirL.t (luality. Mr Uicharda, a (iovernnient Commissioner, travelling through it in ls;'iO, and writing to Sir George Murray, then Colonial Secre- tary, si)caks thus of it : — ' From Otter Creek [in Jiayhaiu the eastern- most township of the district] to Colonel Talbot's, the lands and croju were as line as possible, and the growth of the woods of the very first quality.' Owing, most probably, however, to the large grant or reserve allowed to Colonel Talbot for his services in settling Uie surrounding country, the population of Dunwich township has not much increased since 1817, when there were computed to be 500 inhabitatts. There art- some quarries of limcstouc, and good earth for brick. SouTun-oLij.— Population a little ahove 2000, stated in tho official re- turns as being composed pretty equally of the various religious bodies. but the census is believed to be imperfect in this respect, a return of the whole not being made. A la,rge proportion of the inhabitants are native Canadians, many of Dutch origin, -.vith a considerable number of Eng- lish and other Europeans. The fine stream of Kettle Creek, upon which Port Stanley and the town of St Thomas is situated, nms tlirough tlii-s township. Soil similar to Dunwich and Aldborough, marly, and diver- sified with sandy loam and clay alternately. Thei-e are above 48,flOU occupied acres, above 14,000 of which are cultivated. Yarmouth. — Population nearly 4000; occupied acres above 57,000, above 10,000 of which are cultivated. A similar remark respecting the origin of the inhabitants applies to this township as to those of South - wold. Soil, black sandy loam ; timbered with beech, maple, black and white walnut, oak, ash, cherry, &c. Well watereu with fine streams. Malahide. — Population a little over 2000, the greater number Metho- dists, Haptists, and members of the Church of England. Above IHO are returned as Quakera ; a considerable proportion are Americans, Occu- pied acres above 43,000, above 9000 of which are cultivated. Soil, loam and clay, and well watered. Cattish Creek, a deep full stream, for some distance from its mouth, runs through this township ; and the village of Jamestown is situated near it in a very pretty hollow, where there used to be many mills employed. There are within the township four flour and eleven saw mills. There is a great deal of uncultivated or forest land belonging to absentee proprietors in Malahide, and this circumstance has retarded its settlement and cultivation. A considerable proportion of tU<» ' ■ 's ' - 5 NOTES. 81 inhftl)itaiits .iro Aniericani, Dngaged iu t!»e timber trade, wliicli trmle chit'Hy employs the saw mills. H.vYiiAM. — Population about the same as Malahide, being a littlo ftbovo 2(MM), the greater proportion of whom are returned as belonging to the Church of Hngland, Methodists and Haptists, with about 200 Tresby- teriiins, and several Quakers. Occupied acres above IJ«i,0()(>, (KlOO of which are cultivated. Soil not quite so good in parts as iu the other townships, yet a good deal of loam and clay. Of the timber grown there are largo quantities of pine, but also maple, ash, black waliu:t, diH'erent kinds of oak, chestnut, and cherry. The fine streams of the Little and (Ireat Otter nm through Hayham, and the agreeably situated village of Port Bur- well is [ilaced at the mouth of the latter, upon the high banks of the Like. The situation of Port Hurwell is allowed to be much more plea- sant for a town than any otlicr i)lacG on Lake Erie ; and from the fulness of the stream, a finer harbour, it is believed, could be formed than even at Port Stanley. IJut it is said that a short-sighted, illiberal policy with the proprietors of land at Port Hurwell and its vicinity lias hindered the qrowth of the locality ; the Indifferent cpiality of much of the land would no doubt too greatly opemte. A hirge trade in pine timber, sawu into boards, is capable of being carried on here, for the supply of the oppo- site State of Ohio, about (JO or 70 miles across tho lake. The total number of occupied acres in these townships is 2.*?0,000, 52,000 of which, it has been stated, arc under cultivation. Calculating each township to contain the average quantity of Gl,f>00 acres, these townships will contain in all about 370, (MM) acres ; so that there yet re- mains to be occupied between 100,000 and 200,000 acres. The amount of the official valuation of property within the townships is about £ 190,000 currency, or upwards of £ 15.'>,000 sterling. Tlie real value will probably amount to at least between £200,000 and £.300,000 sterling, and the whole amount of assessed taxes paid by these eleven or twelve thousand inhabitants does not reach to £1000, or is only about Is. 6d. a-year to each inhabitant ; and the greater part of this is expended for local pur- poses within the district by the popularly elected body of the District ( ouiicil. Tho Government of Canada is chiefly supported by a customs' duty of 5 per cent, levied upon British goods imported, and also a mode- rate duty upon imports from the United States. ;! i If- l, i, If. » ,.i ■ r 82 lOWNSMIPS OF Tin: INTKUIOR. SI . FIFTH LETTER. Townsliips of the Interior — Scotch Settlement in Westminster — Delaware, the I'irst Settled Township of the District— Story of its Early Settle- n»eut — First Settlement of Canada — Niagara, Ancaster, Long Point Country — Expedition of Adventurers dow the River Thames — Scenery and Soil along the Banks — The Travellers halt for rest — A Forest Scene — Illustration of the Land-granting System of Canada in the History of Delaware — Remedy recently adopted of Taxing Unoccupied Lands — Township of London — Its First Settlement and Progress— Present Comfortable Condition of the Settlers. Notes: — Niagara — Long Point Country — Townships of the Interior. London, Canada, 1843. I GAVE you some account in my last of the six townships of this district which stretch along the shore of Lake Erie. These we called the lake-shore townships— the remaining nine, the district being composed of fifteen, we will, for the sake of greater distinctness, name the townships of the interior. Of these I will now proceed to give some slight notices, for I fear lest I stray too much into detail, and should weary you even on a subject so interesting as that of this new country. Immediately back from the six lake townships, and com- mencing at the westeramost, are Mosa, Ekfrid, Carradoc, SCOTCH SKTTLKMKNT. 0.1 Delaware, Westminster, and Dorchester ; and the rrniaininf^ three, back of these again, are Adelaide, Loho, and London. The most popuhms of these first six, which compose the middle ranj^e of the district, and possessing, perhaps, the richest soil, is Westminster. This township received its first inhabitants in IMU ; in 1817 there were 107 houses and 42IJ people. The last published official returns for 1H41 show a population of 2GH0, possessing 12,059 cultivated acres, 800 oxen and horned cattle from two to four years old, 1117 milch cows, and 444 horses, besides four grist mills, two saw mills, three distilleries, and two stores ; but in giving these two last, the distilleries and stores, the vicinity of the town of London is to be taken into account, the south branch of the River Thames flowing past the town, being the northern boundary of Westminster. The assessed valuation of pro- perty within the township (a valuation much under the real one, as you remember I formerly stated) is about £30,000 sterling. The soil for the most part is of a marly loam, the surface undulating, in places gradually rising to upwards of 100 feet, I would say, above the level of the Thames. One part of this township is settled wholly by inhabitants from Scotland, and receives the name of the Scotch settlement. This settlement forms the greater part of a respectable con- gregation in connection with the United Associate Synod of Scotland, who meet in the town of London under the pastoral charge of the Rev. William Proudfoot, who formerly held a mi- nisterial charge in the Carse of Gowrie in Perthshire, and has resided in this quarter with his large family these many years. The next in the middle range of townships inviting atten- tion is Delaware. This is the oldest township in the district, the first settlers having entered it in 1 795. The village of Delaware is one of the prettiest spots in all Canada. It is situated on the great provincial road, fourteen miles south-west of London, and has been the scene of many a merry pic-nic party made up from the families of the garrison and the town. I • I..- 84 STORY 01' THK DAHLY SKTTLERS. i' ( 'oinu'ctfd vvitli the first settlemoiit of Deluwau', there is a driMh of romantic novflty which will sotnewhat interest you, who, like myself, delight to preserve those characteristic cir- cumstances in the settlement of a new country. Ujiper (Ca- nada, you know, first hej^an to he peopled in 17JI4 — the whole of it then was one vast forest. Niagara, situated on that finely salubrious neck of land between the head of Lake On- tario p.nd the foot of J^ake Eric, was one of the first settlements, as was also a similarly favoured tract of country some little way up Lake Erie, included now in the Talbot district, and familiarly called Long Point country. These two places wen* among the first foot-holds of the early settlers. The next Bteppings forth into the interior were directed to the spot where now stands the pleasantly situated village of Ancaster, seven miles west of Hamilton, at the head of Lake Ontario. Soon after this first settlement of Ancaster, some members of the families who had removed there, pushing young men, con- ceived an expedition still farther into the country. The love of adventure, and the novelty of exploring a new country, would readily favour the idea of a trading speculation with the Indians ; and off on this errand set the party westward, with some stores of tobacco, whiskey, calicoes, knives, and trinkets. Having reached so far as Oxford, on one of the branches of the River Thames, east of London, they determined proceeding' down the river in a canoe ; and so loosening their well-laden little bark to the current, away went the adventurers adown the winding and rapid Thames, beautifully wooded along its banks, the tangling brushwood and graceful sweeping willow overhanging its many bends and pleasant nooks. Steering around many a lengthened curve, and by the small, low, wooded islands — some like clumps of trees alone rising from the water -now between banks, with their bold steeps of rich black and clayey loam, crowned by the luxuriant forest; next would open the fertile flats of meadow-land, more thinly wooded with the stately and widely branching sycamore, and hero and '\ t , FOIUIST AND lUVr:il StENlUY. (\!i there willows nnd bushos of aider, with the wild vino twin- in*,' about tlu'Mi, tluMi l)fndijifj: o\t'r and diiipiiif: into tin* niarjzia of the clear lively stream. Tired »)f the watchful steering,' and fending of thi'ir course down a raj)id stream, without opportu- iiitv sutVicient to mark the wild and statelv luxuriance of the neenery, telling them of a wondrnusly rich soil, the adveiiturem naturally thought ol' halting for rest. So fastening their canoe by the bank, the next moment they stood upon the threshold uf the Htatelv and shady olden woods — the towering forest — its far aomhre and stilly depths, vaulted by the thick inter- twining branches high above, seeining like some mighty tt'ini»le, the rays of sun-light here and there flickering on tho lower leaves of the less and bushier trees, or shooting in nar- row streams down some massy trunk. Our tired adventurer* seated themselves most likely upon one of the many old fallen trees, scattered like benches about, as if inviting to rest and con- templation within the shady temple — some newly fallen, other* mouldering, so that touching them, like a friable clod, they scatter into powder: others again — and those the forest wan- derer loves much — with their thick elastic coatings of dry green moss, offering an easy scat across u clear cool spring — sometimes so small as nearly to be hidden — gurgling and play- ing lively through its miniature course of fallen leaves, and at times having even sand and pebbles for its diminutive bed. Upon one of these old mossy trunks our wanderers may have rested, the wild flowers around them appearing from amid the thickly-strewn leaves and long thin grass. Who would not ba'c delighted to rest in such a place .^^ The pillared, vaulted, and sombre forest, with its streaks of light and masses of shade —its car])et of leaves, and grass, and varied wild flowers — iti mossy scats, and pursing streams — a scene awakening sensa- tions at once pleasing and grand. You are charmed by the attractive novelty — you love the flowers, the streams, and the grandeur .^f the whole rising around you, and far over head, iu its vast and cabn solitariness, imposes the mind with pro- ( \ h i aG VILLAr.E OF DELAWARE. I'i ' foundest awe. Our wanderers, accustomed to such scenes, were most likely simply to experience (besides impressions of of the richness of the soil) a grateful rest, and, it might be also, sensations of their solitariness in such a place, where for miles and miles around them all was forest — deep solitary forest — without a white footstep. Continuing their course, they would pass many a spot tiow enlivened by dwellings and cleared farms, and the din of mill-machinery ; among others, the ris- ing table land on which now stands the town of London, unthinking, it might be, as they loooked upon the high banks, crowned and covered all backward by heavy forest — that here some of them would live to see, as they did, this spot, the site of churches, shops, and a thousand or two busy in- habitants. Having reached the Forks (as the locality was long called, before a house of the town was built, and even since, by old settlers, from the two branches of the river join- ing under the high west bank), they would then glide more smoothly upon the fuller stream, and keeping on their way, till fifteen or twenty miles further down, they made a halt. It was at one of the loveliest river nooks one could wish to linger by. It was the site of the present village of Delaware, admired by all for the beauty of its situation. The traveller along the main road from London westward, all at once meets the river in a curving open valley ; the opposite side high and wooded, and spreading from the foot of this rising bank arc flats of meadow land, w ith scatterings of willows, poplars, an J thorns ; then the river in the midst, almost close beneath the village on the near side, flowing gently, full, and clear, wiHi its shining, unbroken, glassy surface. Such was the spot the adventurers chose as a sort of head-quarters in their Indian traffic. Finding it convenient for profitable trade in disposing of manufactured stores in exchange for furs, and doubtless influenced, too, by the natural attr«c iuns of the place for a tettlement, the result was an invifation to their friends, the S SYSTEM OF LAND GRANTING IN CANADA. H7 older folks, at Ancaster, who soon joined them, .nnd so com- menced the settlement of Delaware. This you may call the story of the foundation-laying of the present London district. I had the facts from a respectable worthy old settler, whose family were among those very first settlers of Upper Canada at Niagara, and were also among the first in the London district. The widow of one of these f.rst settlers of Delaware, one of our adventurous explorers, still lives near or within the village. I have before me n printed report of the proceedings of a meeting of the inhabit- ants of this and adjoining townships in 1817, at which the widow S 's husband, * ♦^he Squire,' as he was called, wiis chairman. This document affords a very striking illustration of the great evil committed in the early settlement of this country by the profuse mode of granting lands. From what we have said of Delaware being still nothing more than a small village, there being in 1JJ41 not 400 inhabitants in the whole township, and from what has been incidentally noticed of the thriving progress of London and the township of West- minster, it is instructive to note, from the proceedings of these primitive settlers, how well they foresaw the eflfect of this laud granting, which has since, in so marked a manner, retarded the settlement and general prosperity of the province. The calm and courteous temper with which the evil is pointed out, and a remedy proposed, attract admiration ; and though it were for nothing else than to aflFord this commentary upon the character of these first settlers of Canada, I may be excused giving you this brief extract of their proceedings : — 'The greater part of the lands which constitute the town- ship of Delaware were granted many years ago to persons not resident in this part of the province; or are crown and clergy reserves, which have been, and still continue to be, an insur- mountable obstacle to the formation of a compact settlement in it. In the township of Westminster, no lands lave as yet V' I F8 NKW TAX UPON UNOCCUPIED LANDS. m ^4^# t 11 been frraated but to actual settlers. And if that system is pur- sued by the Government, it will, no doubt, soon form a most delightful, populous, and wealthy settlement. * The principal part of the township of Dorchester, which la not composed of clergy reserves, has been granted to persons not resident in this part of the province; and there does not appear to be any probability that it will be settled soon, unless men of capital purchase. ' If his Majesty's Government should grant or dispose of the frown and clergy reserves to actual settlers, and the Colonial I^egislature should lay a tax upon the lands of absentees, so as to induce them to sell or contribute to the improvement of roadu, &c., we are of opinion that the province in general would be more prosperous and happy.' Dorchester, here alluded to, has bad the same fate as Dela- ware — the returns of 1841 showing that township not to have 3000 cultivated acres, and only 620 inhabitants. [Townships on an average contain over 60,000 acres.] Dorchester is the township on the east as Delaware is on the west of West- minster. I am glad to perceive that MrBuller's recent speech in the House of Commons attracts so much attention in Ca- nada, and hope that it may be the means of producing some decided good in relieving the country from this pressure upon its industry and general prosperity, and increasing its attrac- tiveness to British enterprise and capital. The new authori- ties of District Municipal Councils, you are aware, have had powers to tax wild lands to a certain amount, which will aave the effect of forcing, in a measure, a speedier distribution of these lands among persons who will cultivate them. Should the powers of the District Councils be found not full enough, it is likely that these powers may be extended. The township of London — the most prominent, though among the latest settled, in the district — next claims our at- tention. In 1817, there were only two families living in thii A TOWNSHIP OF LONDON. 89 township, and now the population may be stated at nearly 7000 — having 90,000 acres of land, 17,000 of which are cultivated. The first regular settlement commenced in 1818, under IVIr Talbot, a gentleman from Ireland, accompanied by se eral of his countrymen, for whom he obtained from Government free grants of land, and a free passage to Montreal. In 1829, seven years after settlement, the township contained a popula- tion of 2416, with 5941 acres of cleared land; in 1834, it had increased to 5051, with 12,841 cleared acres; and in 1841, it was 6257. These two last-mentioned periods include the town ; but in 1841 the township alone had a population of over 4000. A son of the founder, writing in 1834 respecting this township, gave this account of the colonists who emigrated with his father : — ' Scarcely an individual who accompanied Mr Talbot to this country was possessed of more than £100, and many on their arrival in this township had not more than £50 ; yet of all those persons there is scarcely one that is not now wholly independent, in the possession of fine farms, of an abundance of stock, and in the enjoyment of all the comforts and many of the luxuries of life.' The surface of this town- ship is agreeably undulating, being broken into table lands by the branches of the Thames and smaller streams coursing their rapid and clear waters through it, and by a succession of gentle wave-like rollings. The soil may generally be characterised as a rich loam; hundreds of acres particularly so, occurring along the lower banks or flats of the river, these flats to all appearance having been a former and wider channel ; there are again other exceptions, such as one part of the high land on which London is built, where sand prevails, and where pine and the straggling scrubby oak have grown. London town- ship, on the whole, I would say, is both agreeable in irs fea- tures and fertile. Although not having overtaken the town of London, I will not lengthen this letter, but will reserve the subject for my next, which will form th^ concluding letter of the series, 00 NOTES. NOTES. ¥:t mi Niagara. The tovm of Niagara, formerly named Newark, was the first capital o^ Upper Canada, it having been there that General Simcoe, the first Lieu- tenant-governor of the province, opened the first Parliament, on the 18tli September 1792. The district of Niagara, in shape nearly an oblong square, is situated between the two lakes, Erie and Ontai-io, and its eastern boundary is watered by the Niagara River, whicii, from its en- trance into Lake Dntario, at the town of Niagara, to the outlet of Lake Erie, at Fort Erie, is a distance of 33 miles. The famous Falls, which have given their name to the district, are 13 miles distant from the town. The strait or river of Niagara, not to speak of the one stupendous feature, presents much both of grandeur and picturesque beauty. At the commencement of the river, receiving into its channel a body of waters from Erie and tlie other great lakes, to the extent of 700,000 tons a minute, the breadth is about two miles, and contracting and expanding betimes, now closing to one mile, now bending out to three, and then, at nearly half- way to the Falls, it divides its course, encircling a body of land of about 17,000 acres, forms 'OwanuKgah, 'or, asitis commonly called, Grand Island, where the breadth, measuring across this island, is eight miles. Below this it measures again three miles, and having a smooth glassy surface, lilve to the peacefullest lalce — then it narrows to less than a mile, expands again toa mile and half, and, at the next narrowing, of three quarters of a mile, the mass of collected waters, here broken and rapid, opposed and divided by islands, and tossing on a bed of rough ledging rocks — ha\'ing now assumed their mightiest enargy and fury — thundering roll, roaring and enwrapt in foam, over the cragged cliffs, and down the hundred and sixty feet and more, whitening the vast broad sheet of stupendous precipice. It is as if the bed of great waters had cracked beneath their weight, and the waters above, in frightful unconsciousness of their fate in following, continued ever hoarsely roaring as they hurled tumbling down to the dread abyss. The circling white clouds of foam and spray, denser around the depths and lighter as they rise, veiling and serving an unceasing in- cense amid the deep muffled murmuring roar, impart completeness to the grandeur. Closer observation presents features of the scene displaying the most perfect and pleasing repose. The light showers of ever-continued Bpray — wetting the rocks, the grass, bushes, and trees — acted on by the NOTES. 91 rays of the bright sun, fonn over the chnsm tlie spnn of the rainbow : and the green fresh fulinge is crowning and clustering nbout the rocky cliffs ; and, the eye falling on tlie depths below, there, removed but slightly from the boiling foaming surge, part of the waters have ex- pended their roar and their turmoil, and, in their deep and beautiful blue, in eddies around the rocky edges of the shore, they lave playfully and in quiet, murujuring softly as they ever again kiss the foot of the bank, and the tips of long grass hanging over as if to woo the greeting ;— all this to the observant eye makes Niagara not more a scene of striking gran- deur than of calm softest beauty. The banks above the Falls vary in character as the stream does in breadth — now low, grassy, and lawn- like — now bold, high, and steep. Beyond the Falls, and for six miles down the river, they are bolder, loftier, more rugged, and uneven. When emerging from their restrained course of these six miles, between over- lianging rocks and a rough bed, the waters make their api)earance at the village of Queenston, with alight and peculiar blue; and now broad, mtyestic, and even in their course, for thirteen miles, between banks slop- ing, reguhir, and smooth, and a country smiling and cultivated, they join Lake Ontario at the town of Niagara. It was most natural that a district of country with features so remarkable, and inviting also in its climate and soil, should be among the first chosen by the early settlers of Canada. In 1784, the year following the mtificu- tton of the peace, which concluded the unnatural war between Great liritain and her old colonies, and established the present United States, the first colonists of Upper Canada, who had remained stead- fast in their attachment to, and fought under, tho Crown, entered this new colony, and settled in the district of Niagara. That noted corps, the theme of many an incident in the Revolutionary contest, ancl well known as ' Butler's Rangers,' are said to have been the first settlers in Niagara ; and in the succeeding year of 1783, they were followed by emigrants from the States of New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and New York. The Niagara district is composed of two counties, having twenty three townships, and a population of a little over 38,000, and 150,0(K) acres of land under cultivation. In 1842, the district produced 249,000 bushelo of wheat, 42,000 bushels of barley, 289,000 bushels of oats, 9000 bushels of rye, 9(i,,000, 2500 of which are cultivated. Soil loamy, and timbered with maple and oak. Carradoc. — Population 5)30, chiefly Methodists and belonging to tha Church of England. 2.3,000 occupied acres, ."JSOO of which are cultivated. Soil loamy, and timbered with oak. Delaw'Ark. — Population 400, chiefly Methodists and belonging to the Church of England. Not quite 000 occupied acres, and about 1300 under cultivation. Soil loam and clay, with rich flats along the banks of the Thames. Portions are light and sandy J icing timbered with pine and oak. Wkstminstkr. — Population 2080, 480 of whom are in connection with the Church of England, 400 Church of Scotland, 5')0 Free Pres- byterian' . chiefly in connection with the United Associate Synod of Scot- land, (>70 Methodists, and above 200 Baptists. Occupied acres nearly (S0,000, above 12,000 of which are under cultivation. Soil rich black loam, sand, and clay ; finely timbered with beech, maple, elm, and basswood. DoRCHRSTER. — Population 62'^, of whom above 200 are returned as Methodists, but this part of the census appears incomplete. This town- ship is usually divided into North and South Dorchester — the former, watered by the south branch of the Thames, has a loamy soil, well tim- bered with pine — the latter sandy, and timbered in front with scrubby pine. The pine of Dorchester has a good market in London, and is floated down the Thames during the spring and autumn floods. North Dorchester has 5500 acres occupied, (?00 of which are cultivated ; and South Dorches- ter nearly 15,000 acres occupied, and above 200 of which are cultivated. This completes the middle range of townships of the district, all of which are watered along the southern border by the Thames ; and the three first noticed — Mosa, Ekfrid,and Carradoc — are also watered on the north by the Kiver Sydenham. The main road, leading south-westwBrd from London to Chatham, runs through the whole of them, with the exception of Dorchester and part of Westminster. Adblaidb — In the rear or north border of Ekrid and Carradoc, and having the main road north-westward from London to Samia, on the Hi NOTES. 9ft River St Clair, passing through It— has a population of 1100, clilefly individuals retired frcm the aruiy, who settled in this township ahout eight years ago. Occupied acres ahout 33,(MK), of which li^WO are under cultivation. Soil chiefly clay; timhered with nmple, heech, and elm— I>arts of it rather wet, but otherwise good lond. LoBo. — Population 1170; settled about twenty years ogo chiefly by Highland Scotch. Occupied land above 2y,000 acres, 3800 of which are under cultivation. Soil black loam ; timbered with luaple, be«ch, and elm. Has also the Samia road passing through it. London.— Population 6257 [in 1841], above 2000 of which are inhabit- ants of the town. The census returns 1800 as belonging to the Churca of England, 1100 as Presbyterians, 300 of whom in connection, and the remaining 800 not in connection, with the Church of Scotland, about 1300 Methodists, 350 baptists, and 300 of the Church of Rome, besides smaller numbers of other sects. Land occupied nearly 32,000 acres, which includes the site of the town, measuring between 700 and 800 acres ; of this amount there is under cultivation above 17,000 acres. Soil rich blaclc loam and clay; timbered with beech, maple, elm, and basswood. A great proportion of the site of the town of London is sandy ; timbered with oak aad pine. Along the baiiks of the Thames are fertile flats. 'yiXl 1 i - 1 1 * iLi V • '< 9C JOURNEYING TO A NEW TOWN. W I ;v I ■J* CONCLUDING LETTER. Introduction to a View of the Town of London— The First "View— Next Day's Impressions — Scene around the Inn nnd in the Street — A Walk, and Glance at general Features of tlie Town — Growth of London — First House built — Site and Position — Plan of General Simcoe, nnd his Opinion respecting tlie Place and surrounding Country — Tra- vellers from the • North-West* — Indian Letter Writing — Particular Description of London — Streets and Public Buildings — Mechanics' Institute, Reading Room, and Library — American and English Boolts — Marlcet-house — Fish and the Fishings of the great Laltes — Shops, Living, nnd Prices of Provisions — Rents of Houses, and Cost of Building — Wages of Tradesmen, Labourers, and Farm-ser- vants — Concluding Remnrlis — Canada imperfectly known in Britain- Necessity of correct nnd minute Informntion concerning the Colonies- Present General Condition and Prospects of Canada — Persons who ought to Emigrate. Notes ; — General Simcoe's Opinion and Plans — American and English Books in Canada — Imperfect Information concerning our Colonies- Lord Sydenham's Estimate of Canada — Improved Prospects of the Country — Impressions of a recent Traveller. London, Canada, 1843. After one has travelled some little distance through a line of farms, roadside taverns, and a patch of woods now and then, there is an awakened curiosity as you approach the town, how- ever small, at which your journey ends, and the place heing one which you have never visited before. This curiosity is heightened should the traveller be an emigrant froni the ' old country,' and FIRST SIfJTIT ON A RAINY DAY. 97 on one of his journeyings in * the New World.' The town which he is approaching may have been uppermost in all his thoughts — the centre of his hopes— from the day on which a new home in America was first determined upon ; and as his far journey- ing is now being ended, he is doubly busy fancying to himself the kind of place in which, or its vicinity, his intentions are to settle. Circumstances, accidental and frecjuently of little mo- ment, the disposition of mind, or the state of the weather — a sunny or a rainy day — are well known to influence people in forming an opinion at first sight of localities, or even coun- tries, the very opposite to that which they would under other influencing circumstances have formed. As an instance, one of our new towns in this country, for the first time seen in a heavy wet day in early spring, cannot be said to have at all an inviting look. You may imagine, as I am now about to intro- duce to you this Canadian town of London, that you are for the first time entering it under such circumstances. Approach- ing it from the east, after having journey ed for above eighty miles from the head of Lake Ontario, the entrance is a somewhat level road through a little piece of wood upon each side. Within this, and on looking around you, the scene presented is a cir- cuit of several miles of ' cleared ' ground, bounded all round with a fence of thick forest. A confused-like assemblage of wooden houses of all sizes and shapes fills up the centre. The pelting rain, making every thing look heavy and wet, hopeful anticipations are taken aback as the eye falls upon the dreary looking ugly * stumps,' and the low-roofed rude * shanties' of the squatters ; and while you are yet engaged ruminating on all sorts of wild and unhospitable notions, the mail-stiige, with its four stout steeds, has rattled you up to the door of the chief inn ; and not even the bright blazing log-fire, and a substantial and cheerful looking meal, can make you feel sufficiently at ease re- specting the result of all your joumeyings and anxious thoughts ; and when you retire for the night, ten chances to one, but you go to dream of this wild wooden place in the wilderness. t, . NEXT 1)A\ S SCKNE. 9- ' M n The morning in sunny and l)riKht, a dear liluo Hky with tufth of light cloudH calmly reposing ; our fellow-truvellerH and th»' hoarders of the inn are up, quietly enjoying the grateful air, |)romenading the Hhaded balcony, resting Ihemi^elveH on the NeatH, or some of them may he dispersing from the early breakfast table, to resume the active duties of the day. The street— the main street of the town, which you are all eyes «'agerly to look upon — is quite au animated scene in its way. Shops — large shops of two and three storeys— lettered all in front, and vsith gay windows, crowded with varieties of tempting wares, are just much like other shops in your own ' old country.' The shopkeepers are busy arranging and dressing up their shops, displaying their printed cambrics and mus- lins, and webs of bright handkerchiefs around their doors, and even over their upper windows, for the purpose of increased attraction to the farmers, and farmers' wives and daughters, whom you may see already dropping into the town from the suriounding country, and beginning to give an appearance of stir to the wood-paved, wide, and regular street. "Well-dressed, respectable-looking people bustle about, and exchange the plea- sant * good morning' with each other, so much the custom here ; and all doing it so happy like, you cannot avoid the thought within yourself that there must be sometliing vastly comfortable and agreeable about the place which can present such a scene, and that it may be possible to find your anticipations of the New World realized after all. You take a walk out, and you see neat painted cottages, inhabited by the most industriou? and successful tradesmen ; and passing the western end of the street, you suddenly find yourself overlooking, from a high bank, the winding course of the River Thames — the junction of two branches which flow, the one along the south, tht other the north boundary of the town. A still higher bank, on the other side of the south branch, invites you to continue your walk, and that you may have a full view of this New Lon- don. Crossing * Westminster Bridge,' a little w^ay on your M • tj -» U4 t RATID GROWTH OF LONDON'. 59 « 1 ,bU> ne, t\\i' ou ou? the igh II of her the our left, you find youFHelf in the township of the game nnmo, nnd con- tt'inplatinp with a plea-^in^ curio.sity the Hcene which wtretcheH out before you, a crowded collection of houaen — yet the Htreets :ill in perfectly Mtrai^ht lin. h, eaut and west, and others at right unifies, Home of the housen mean, others passable, many neat and comfortable, a few i«tately — nil, however, fresh and new like, as if they had but come from the carpenter's hands yesterday, or had by ma^io arisen out of the woods, and made that ample circuit of 'clearance' in which they stand for themselves. Seventeen years a^o only, there was not one bit of clearance there — all was wood, dense forest — yet you now see all those houses, stately churches, popular institute, and castellated court-house; and several individuals during that time, inhabit- ants of the town, have made respectable competencies, and many more, finding exercise for their industry, comfortably and agreeably settled for life. The town of London, the first house of which was built in 1H27, now contains A population of nearly 3000. The rapid growth of London, especially within the laat five years or so, ha« been matter of surprise even in Canada. It is very agreeably situated upon an elevated platform, formed by two branches, the north and south, of the River Thames, which meet in an open valley or flat, directly beneath the high western point of the town. A rather pleasant view is had from this point of the clear and rapid river, winding its course through partip'''^ wooded banks, till we lose sight of it curving into the bush^ forest. But speaking of views, I must own one cannot boast here of such as you have in that dear land of mountain and of Hood. Still I like Canada; and there is no need to be always thinking of Scotland. General Siracoe, the first Governor of Upper Canada, in a tour he made to this place during his ad- ministration in 1793, was much pleased with the situation and surrounding country, and affirmed that it would become a place of magnitude and importance. The Governor, indeed, ij '..^ ,! i^l 100 POSITION OF THE TOWN. ii! mi was so favourably mpressed as to have contemplated New London as the future capital of Western Canada. The ex- posed situation of Niagara, where the seat of government then was, 80 close upon the American frontier, no doubt suggested this to him, while contemplating the more secure, as well as naturally attracti"^e position of London, in the heart of a large and richly fertile peninsula. To give you some distinct idea of the position of London in this peninsula between the great lakes, I may mention that it is situated about 85 miles west of Hamilton, at the head of Lake Ontario, about the same distance north-east of Chatham, which town is 15 miles from the mouth of the Thames, where it enters into Lake St Clair ; 72 miles cast of Sarnia, head of the River St Clair, and foot of Lake Huron ; GO miles south of Gode- rich, on the eastern shore of Lake Huron, and 25 miles north of Port Stanley on Lake Erie, which, as I have before stated, is the chief shipping port of the district. There are regular mail stages between the whole of these places, and the emi- grant from Europe may approach the centre of this peninsula by any of these five points, and, if he chooses, without having had more than one day's land journey from the hour in which he stepped on board the vessel at Liverpool or the Clyde. This forcibly illustrates the advantages Canada enjoys from its ex- tent of internal navigation. Think you now — here we are, peven hundred miles from our chief pert, nearest our sea-board, and and yet that port, Quebec, two hundred miles more from the mouth of the river, whose waters so wonderfully stretch into seas, at the distance of a thousand miles and more, into the in- terior of a continent. Yet, with all our seeming distance here (steam having so changed all our ideas of distance), I have had letters from Scotland within the three weeks. Talking of en- tering this district from Europe, I once met an old lady, who still lives in the district, and who came to Canada about twenty years ago ; and as she had neither entered it by the St Lawrence nor the Hudson, had t'^uched no part of the United TRAVELLERS FROM < THE NORTH-WEST.* 101 States, nor had seen anything of Lower Canada — think you how she came here? The old lady came into the country in a way, I am sure, few would think of. She left the Atlantic at Hudson Bay, and came down Lake Superior. The gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company, on their visits down the country, sometimes come this way. The other winter I had the pleasure of meeting Mr Gr., from a v hief post in the North- west (Norway House at Lake Winnepeg), in company with Captain M., whom I had met at Sault Ste Marie, at the foot of the Queen Lake (Superior) the preceding summer. Mr G. had left the post in July, and this was in October I saw him ; a pretty long time on a journey. He had brought one of his sons with him, to place him in one of the academies of the province. I was greatly gratified to hear an account from this gentleman of an ingenious and simple method, introduced by the Rev. James Evans, a zealous and talented missionary (stationed at Norway House), with distinguished success, to enable the Cree Indians there to write their own language. I think it would amuse and perhaps interest you, were I to show you a copy of the singular alphabet adopted by Mr E. Mr G. was the bearer, part of his route, of letters from two Cree Indians to Mr E., who was absent on an excursion through the Com- pany's posts west of Lake Winnepeg. Mr G. informed me of a very novel use to which these ^.ndians had put their newly- acquired knowledge (by the way, very speedily acquired by them too), and which gave a curious illustration, besides, of how willing they are to indulge their characteristic taciturnity. They wen? in the practice, when gathered round the hearth of an eveni jg, to ' make a talky without the neccjsity of opening their lips; putting each his stick in the fire until the charred end could be used as a pencil, with this each wrote his thought on the floor or boards, and thus they kept up, to one another's wonder and amusement no doubt, this novel conversational game. '■:..• . -i - - - -^ -^ ■ But to our town of London again, as this is the last letter I }; •. ii 102 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Mi. II shall have an opportunity of sending to you. The town, as you will have already known, from the general glance which we took, is laid out on the plan of several main streets running parallel with each other, east and west, and cross ones inter- secting at right angles. There are five of what we call the main, and four of the cross streets, which have as yet been much built upon ; and on the west point of the town, overlook- ing the river, an open space in the form of a square is left, on which the district court-house and jail is built, and which from this receives the name of Court-house Square. This public building has a rather striking appearance from its castellated style, and being built of brick coated with mortar to resemble stone. The internal accommodations, however, have been found too inconvenient and limited for the increasing population of the district, and a considerable addition is contemplated dur- ing this summer. On one of the corners of this square is the district school, a respectable-looking two storey wooden frame building. Next to the school is another two-storey building, but much larger, with pediment and portico, and intended to be finished with columns. This is the hall of the Me- chanics' Institute. A stranger may well be astonished at the evidence in this stately-looking and capacious building of the zeal for knowledge and enterprise in a town like thin, which had no existence seventeen years ago. London, I be- lieve, in the spirit with which this institute is supported, is an example to the whole province. I am not aware of another instance in Canada, not even in the comparatively polished and most English-like town, Toronto, where a building has been erected for a popular institute. The hall of the London Institute was opened last winter, and contains on the ground- floor rooms for a day and evening school, for a drawing and modelling class, a library, museum, a room for chemical and other apparatus, and apartments for a teacher or keeper, and the whole of the floor above is occupied as a spacious lecture - hall. During the winter evenings, the inhabitants are enliv- ened by lectures upon scientific and general topics, delivered s: MECHANICS INSTITUTE. 103 by ordinary and honorary members resident in the town and neighbourhood. One of the best lectures delivered last winter was by the warden of the district, John Wilson, Esq., a bar- rister of talent and eminence, who is greatly respected here. The subject was optics, and was so ably handled and illustrated by drawings and apparatus, that altogether I do not think, even had the lecture been in your own Modern Athens, you could have desired to have been more gratified. James Corbett, E?q., a gentleman connected wita the department of Rcyal Engineers, also delivered before the institute lectures on geo- logy ; and several others, including members of the clergy, contributed their services : such is generally the good feeling and understanding among all classes. The lectiares are re- markably well attended, aided much by the enlivening presence of the ladies. Tliere is a tolerably good library, rapidly in- creasing, in connection with the institution ; the fees of mem- bership are 3s. a-quarter, and 4s. at entry ; and members are restricted to no class of the community. You may perceive from this that, with a circulating library, and reading room besides, kept by one of fV'* three booksellers in town, we are not quite in the wild woods here shut out from r'' knowledge. Two-thirds and more of our books are supplied through the United States, by means of the astonishingly cheap reprints, of which you will have heard. Think of Allison's Europe for 16s., and Blackwood's Magazine for9d. ! Besides Blackwood, we have the Dublin University, Bentley, the New Monthly, and all the Quarterlies, reprinted regularly with wonderful rapidity by one publishing house in New York soon after ar- rival, and the whole of them speedily circulated at low rates all over Canada. The Penny Magazine and Chambers's Journal have also large circulations — the former, however, is Charles Knight's own genuine London edition, and both it and the Journal well sustain their reputation. I think it is lOs. a-year we pay for the Penny Magazine, besides postage, from New York. There is a complaint being made by British publishers about I I '¥ '■ I SI »;.[^ i : K'^^ 1 W^ "*lv V %f^ 'M H '" W^^'m P ' a' f'f ,"flH El i' p^J ||; jz ft thI ■ f 1 •'•f /'^ K ^' '1 104 AMERICAN AND ENGLISH BOOKS. our getting books so cheap in Canada. A remedy, as regards copyright works, would be in international legislation — a law to which the United States and Great Britain alike consent. A result to Canada would of course be, the less desirable books of American writers would be more purchased, and the tastes ot the colony run the risk of becoming formed on the Unitetl States' periodical literature of magazines and newspapers ; not to speak of the political influence constantly liaple to operate where a continued large and cheap circulation of such litera- ture is going on, in a country peculiarly situated as this is, to the exclusion of literature through more legitimate channelif, and this exclusion the result of an unfortunately high-priced sys- tem of book-publishing. The case of Canada, when these cheap issues of British works are repressed, as is now threatened, will afford a subject of some consideration to all who wish well to the permanency of this colony's institutions, and who have a regard to the social and intellectual advantages of the co- lonists. But to the survey of our town. In the Court-house Square, besides the public buildings, is the Market-house, a long one-storey plain wooden build- ing, containing stalls for butcher meat, poultry, vegetables, and dairy produce. Potatoes, fruit, grain, hay, straw, &c., which are brought in waggons from the country, are ranged outside in the square, as well as horses, sheep, or cattle for sale. This market is always abundantly, and, I need scarcely remark, cheaply supplied. Fish, generally, also we do not want throughout the year, both summer and winter ; some we get from the Thames at our doors, but mostly from Sarnia, on the St Clair, and from Lake Huroi. In winter they are caught in cart-loads by the hardy Highlanders on the banks of Lake Huron, near Goderich, and sent round by Guelph to Hamilton, and towns in that direction, and large quantities are brought to London. The fish are caught through holes cut in the ice at some distance from the shore, and having been attracted to the spot by lights, or by a decoy fish let down FISHINGS OF THE GREAT LAKES. lO.' into the water. "White fish and salmon trout are the kinds most abundant and generally used ; the former, as near as I could describe, is between your haddock and salmon, some- what richer than the haddock, but less so than the salmon. I have seen these fish selling in winter at 3d. p^" lb, ; but generally, I would say, they are cheaper. They u.^ to be liad salted in half-barrels of 100 lbs. from 10s. to 14s. The fish- mgs on our lakes- promise to be of vast importiince. Already, I have been informed by a respectable enterprising gentleman largely engaged in the trade, that there are cured annually on Lake Erie and westward, by the United States people alone, above 30,000 barrels, chiefly white fish, trout, and pickerel. Three American companies have five vessels, and the British Hudson's Bay Company employ one, on Lake Superior, all en- gaged less or more in the fishing. The principal fishing stations on the lower waters are on the islands and shore of the Detroit River, which connects Lakes Erie and St Clair. I am very strongly impressed, that in Britain you know little of the grow- ing trade upon these great waters. In 1841, the American people had more than fifty steamers upon Lake Erie and the lakes westward, several of these vessels being from six to eight hundred tons. The estimated value of these was between two and three millions of dollars; and the capital invested in their sail-vessels was estimated at one and a quarter million of dol- lars; and the joint earnings of steam and sail-vessels that year, for freight and passengers, were calculated to be nearly one and three-quarter millions of dollars. This state nent is no vague hearsay, but from accurate sources. Reflect be-ides, that the vast bosom of Lake Superior is yet untouched by steam power, and that there are only upon that lake six sail-vessels, and you can conceive that this Far "West is only beginning to develope its importance. But let us keep in mind we are examining this new town of the west. Entering the streets, one is most struck by the irre- gular appearance of the wooden buildings, each owner of a lot or site having built in such a manner as suited his couve- u !> i . ff S M IT ii.^ i' Bi Iw li bR ll^H ;, I^H «'' 1 l«^B n ^^B B ' ■H li ^^■fii) ' lOG SHOPS AND PRICES, iiience, and according to his taste or fancy. There are several large three-storey buildings, one or two of brick, a number of two storey, and the greater proportion of dwelling-houses ar^ neat and comfortable looking cottages, though there are a good many, too, of small cheap temporary houses scattered throughout chiefly in parts farthest off the main streets. The breadth of the streets strikes one neither as spacious nor narrow, being about sixty feet, though in an extension of the boun Js of the town the width is considerably increased. The principal street, towards the west end near the square, is occupied by the shops, of which there are no want, for the supply of every comfort and luxury usually to be had in most of your own pro- vincial towns. Tliere is the respectable grocer's, where you may have good coffee fresh ground every morning at Is. per pound, young hyson tea from 3s. to 4s. ^ and black cheaper, good brown sugar at 5d., loaf at 7d. ; then there are dried fruits, oranges, and lemons ; and the good housewives need not fear for starch, blues. Day and Martin's and Warren's blacking, Bath brick, and all such et ceteras. In short, these shops are just much like your own, and in the prices of the staple articles, as I have shown you above, much more mode- rate than those you get so highly taxed at home. The pro- vince imports tea, coffee, sugar, and other groceries, at mode- rate duties, from whatever country it can cheapest ; we get a great part from the United States and the West Indies. Such articles as London porter and Edinburgh ale, Lochfine her- rings, Glo'ster cheese, Elizabeth Lazenby's pickles, and Har- vey's sauce, which are all commonly to be had, you do, indeed, pay a good deal higher for than in England. The drapers' shops, called here dry-good stores, are decked out about as gaily with silks, velvets, costly shawls, ribbons, laces, &c., as your own shops, and contain, as the rival advertisements say, which we have here, too, large and varied stocks. With the keen competition which exists generally over Canada among the merchants and storekeepers, all descriptions of British ^. TRADKS AND PUBLIC WORKS. 107 manufactures are sold exceedingly low. You may renienibtr the prices I gave you in a former letter. Crockery and the heavier kinds of hardware are a little higher ; stoves, tire- grates, pots, and such hollow ware, also coarse earthenware, are made in the country. To give you some rough idea how an' inland town in Ca- nada is supported, I may mention that there are in London a well conducted foundry for the manufacture of stoves, plough castings, and mill machinery ; two tanneries, one of the firms carrying on at the same time saddlery, the other shoemaking : two breweries, where a kind of ale resembling your table beer, 1 believe, is made. The largest work in the town is a carriage and waggon manufactory, where there are somewhere at tinus about eighty hands employed iu all the various branches, a<* carriage-makers, wheelwrights, smiths, painters, finishtTs, ^:c. And you may here be supplied with an ox-sledge at £2, a cart £7 to £9, a waggon £12 to £25, and pleasure carriages and fieighs of all descriptions from £20 to £100. I have seen a specimen of a carriage about the latter price, made at Mr Holmes' work, very highly finished, owned by a wealthy resi- dent who has lived in the district since its first settlement. The roads, except some short time before winter sets in and at its breaking up again, are lolerably good iu the town and im- mediate neighbourhood. The whole of the main road, however, from the head of Lake Ontario through London westward, and to Port Stanley on Lake Erie, is about to undergo a great im- provement by being laid with strong planks twelve feet long by three inches thick, laid lengthways — a plan which, from ex- periments in other parts of the province, is preferred to maca- damizing. The side paths in the town of Loudon are chiefly laid with planks. Among the other trades in the town, and which it is not per- haps material to number, are the following: — Carpenters, joiners, and cabinet-makers — these the most numerous ; then blacksmiths, plasterers, bricklayers, shoemakers, tailors- chair- !;l I, 10» CnURCIIKS AND NEWSrAPERS. Spll makers, coopers, painters, bakers, a confectioner, an uphol- Hterer, a plumber and brassfoun(k'r, two hatters, several sad- dlers, and a dyer and scourer. There are three w atchinakers' shops, three apothecary shops, three book shops, three principal hotels or taverns, besides a lar^e rmmber of smaller taverns. Of churches, there are an En^^lish church, two Scotch churches (a Dissenting and Church of Scotland), two Weslcyan Metho- dist chapels (one in connection with the British, and the other the Canadian Conference), one Episcopal Methodist chapel, a Congregational one, and a Roman Catholic. These buildings are all of wood ; they are plain and comfortably fitted up in the interior, and in winter well warmed with stoves. The building for the members of the Kirk is not yet completed; it will con- tain 800 to 1000 sittings, and cost about £600. It would be hard in a young country, where wealth is only growing and rare, and among a scattered population, to build churches without support from public funds, were not Government to give free grants of sites, and the various sects in the immediate neighbourhood contribute their mite in aid of their brethren engaged in building. In instances, too, assistance is received from home. There are five or six medical gentlemen, and about the same number of attorneys and barristers. Also two news- papers — a Conservative and a Liberal — the ' Herald,' and the ' Inquirer,* and a monthly periodical called the * Presbyterian Magazine,' edited by the Rev. Mr Proudfoot. And there are two bank offices. The nearest town to London is St. Thomas, whicli is seventeen miles distant; but London is the chief place of resort for the whole district, and also fcr parts of the other districts situated around it, so that with the district's own population of about 30,000 with over 100,000 acres of culti- vated soil, and the Government having chosen it as head-quar- ters lor the western division of the troops, the degree of comfort and luxury enjoyed in this London of Western Canada is not 80 much to be wondered at after all. Indeed, the quartering pf the troops, since the time of the outbreak in 1837-8, when ■I ■V LIVING AND PRICES OF PROVISIONS. 1()<) barnioks were built here for two regiments of toot and a bat- tery of artillery, has been a main stimulus, if not support, to the place. The I4th Regiment and 1st Royals are here at present, besides Artillery ; but it is rumoured that there will be a considerable reduction, if not a total withdrawal. (One regiment has since been withdrawn.] The military, both officers and men, like Canada very well, and prefer it to any other station abroad. Living is cheap, and good health maintained, and amusements are not wanting. Be- sides pleasure-riding, carriage and sleigh-driving, hunting and fishing, there are the pic-nic and evening parties, balls, oc- casionally a concert, such as Brahara gave us this past season ; and during the winter, the garrison open a public theatre, of- ficers being the chief players, assisted by the men, and * the houses' display a pretty lively and gay appearance, with inha- bitants and military together. There is choice of respectable and pleasant society, both in the town and neighbourhood. The current prices of the staple provisions in this quarter I may state here. The barrel of superfine flour, containing 196 lbs., may be stated at 16s. to 18s. ; at this rate, were the bakers allowing weight for weight, a pound of bread for every pound of flour, it would give the price of the 4-lb. loaf at 4d., or Id. per pound. This, I should say, is an ordinary price ; flour be- ing sometimes lower, sometimes higher. (You will bear in mind I write all in sterling currency to you, except when otherwise stated.) Beef, mutton, pork, or veal, say from 2d. to 3^d. Families very usually, before winter commences, lay in their stock of beef and pork by the quantity. Beef in this way m^y be had from r2s. to 14s. per 100 lbs., and pork 7s. to 8s., which would make the cost of beef per lb. about l^d, and pork less than Id. One could have purchased any quantity of fresh pork here last winter at 7s. per 100 lbs. F'amilies also usually buy flour by the quantity, and bake it themselves into loaves and various sorts of cakes. Potatoes may be stated at Is. or less to Is. 6d. a bushel ; butter, .S^d. to 6d. ; eggs, 3i^d. to i no RENTS AND WAGES. fri r^ \g 6d.; fowls, Gd. to lOd. a couple ; pecsc, In. to 2s. each; tur- keys, "is. Gd. to 3s. Gd. Vegetables are in abundance ; as cab- bages, turnips, cnrrots, onions, spinage, celery, asparagus, tomatoes. The fruits most common are apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches ; also raspberries, currants, and some othtr small varieties; gooseberries as yet are rare. Apples are to be had for 6d. to Is. a-bushel ; and I have seen peaches at the latter price upon tl:e lake and main river banks, where alone they grow «ucccssfully. All these fruits, especially apples and plums, are preserved in large quantitiei^ ; and in most fa- milies, to the very poorest, preserves of some kind almost in- variably appear at table, at least once n ('ay. Rents may be said to be nearly about what they are in the third or fourth-rate streets of the New Town of Edinburgh, de- ducting the taxes there. A respectable looking house for a small family, with parlour and kitchen on the ground floor, and three or four bed-rooms above, with cellar and back-green, may be stated at £12 a-year. Commoner and smaller houses are of course to be had much less ; say for one room about perhaps 7s. or 8s. a-month. And you may have the convenient and elegant cottage, with dining and drawing-room, parlour, and several bed-rooms, and kitchen, with a garden in the rear, and shrubbery and flowers in front, from £30 to £40 or upwards. Frugal people in most cases, when they settle in a new town, manage to buy their half or quarter acre lot of ground perhaps for £7 or £8, and build their own house. £100 to £150, I would say, would put the respectable tradesmen in possession of a convenient and neat house, with his half acre for green and garden, unburdened by feu-duty or vexing window-tax. In the business part of main streets, where ground is high, rents of the ordinary sized shops, having about 20 feet front, with one or two floors or flats above, are from £40 to about £100. The wages of the bulk of the trades — as joiners, plasterers, painters — may be stated at from 4s. to 6s. a-day. Board and lodging are to be had from 7s. to lOs. a-week. The wages of CANADA IMPERFECTLY KNOWN IN BRITAIN. Ill liil)ourers on the public works and farm-Horvants may In* ntated at from 28h. to 32h. a-month and board. And in Hummer the wages of farm-labourers are ordinarily about 408. a-month with board. I have now jjfiven you what I conceive to be a «light view of this part of Canada. I might, perhaps, have been briefer upon ^ome things, and fuller on others, but I could not think of send- ing you mere dry detail, and information grew so as I wrote, that I really feel somewhat uneasy at the length and number of my letters. Two subjects, the state and prospects of educa- tion and agriculture, I could have wished, indeed, to have dwelt longer upon. In these two lie the future well-being of Ca- nada as a prosperous and happy country. Great and good minds to arouse and direct have, as a lamented Governor said, nowhere a finer field for exertion than in Canada. The coun- try is very imperfectly known in Britain ; vague exaggerated accounts, and more vague and prejudiced ill reports of it have alike done harm. I could wish to see Government authorise minutely correct accounts of all our colonies, that the poorest might lay their hands upon, and all could say, * Here is infor- mation we may depend on ; we may choose our colony without fear of disappointment, which we cannot so safely from vague, prejudiced, interested accounts.' This charge against the cha- racter of the current accounts would be too sweeping, were there not honourable exceptions ; but speaking of the mass of accounts regarding the colonies, it is too true. Government alone being most likely and best able to correct this, would, i conceive, be not so much conferring a benefit as doing a matter of justice to its colonies, the home population, and to the main- stay of the empire— manufactures. I must now close, and having afforded you glimpses of the comparative comforts Canada offers, it is well to couple these with drawbacks, here as everywhere else, to be experienced and not so easily described. Accounts are sometimes blamed when the writer is not so much at fault as the mind of the '• ; -I m 'MiW^BWB^B^ } ^' ^ u^ . .jm \\2 PROSPECTS OF CANADA. render. Einijjfr.'iiits generally ought tn make up tlitir mindx to receive some dix-ouragementH in exchange for an additictn of material comforts. Am regards the prospects for any general emigration to Canada, I do not think they are encouraging at present. (Since this was written the prospects of Canmhi have very much improved.— Sec Note.) London, like all other towns in Canada for a year or two back, has* outgrown the demandu of the surrounding country and other means of support ; and as this state will take a little time to remedy itself, I trust, for the sake of parties themselves as well as the country, that there will be few emigrants this sea- son, except such as intend to settle upon farms. This country has not escaped the general commercial depression which has almost everywhere been felt; and a good deal of suffering a»\d loss in the towns has been the consequence. But the worse seems to have passed over, and things begin to look better ; a good harvest thi:^ coming season will much assist. [There was a good harvest in Canada in 1843, and the latest advices men- tion activity and cheerfulnesp having returned to commerce.) Few countries have afforded to their population so even a How of full comforts, and a steady course of tolerable prosperity, sls Canada. Its population, more thoughtful and calculating, have avoided the rash speculations of the neighbouring republic ; and, whatever may have been their occasional embarrassments, they have had the fortune as yet to preserve their credit and honour. ' , To the man with a Httle f apital, willing and able to under- take the necessary labour of cultivating the soil, and to brave some difficulties at his outset in a new country — whether or not he has been accustomed to farm, it will not materially matter — be he nerved with industry and perseverance, in Canada he may almost unhesitatingly calculate on his reward, in a gra- dual growth of comforts and ultimate independence. As re- spects other classes, I would very decidedly, unless matters greatly and speedily change^ give no encouragement for them GKNKUAL REM %HKS CONTLUSIOV. 113 :!i to emij?ratt» to Ciumdn at promMit. Next spring may hr'\n\i a more invitinK Htato of thiii>?s ; but people would do well to lie thorouKhly informed of the prospect.s before venturing with Home vague notions about a change bettering their circum- RtunceH. Canada, at all times, however, in my opinion, offeru inducementM to individuals with a little means willing to Kettle upon land ; and, to those who can afford it, the ndvantage8 in various ways of purchasing partly cleared farms upon good roads are very material. Many suc.i farms, at moderate prices, are to he had in the London district as well as elsewhere. Far- ther dow n the country, nearer the main navigation at Montreal, speaking generally, the soils are not so good, and land not to be had ho cheap, as it is here further west ; and no part of Ca- nada is more healthy, and the climate more temperate and equable, than about the centre of this great peninsula. You remember what a recent writer, and one well acquainted with Canada, from having been a resident. Sir Richard lionny- castle, lieutenant-colonel. Royal Engineers, has said respecting this part of it. As the opinion of such an authority carries a particular weight, I shall take the li'v rty of concluding the se- ries of letters with it, which, at your request, I have had great pleasure in writing. I like Canada; and for its sake, and for the good of those at home who would be benefited by removing there, I should wish to see you in Britain have a closer and more familiar acquaintance with it in all its aspect"). In voluTOie first, page 270, of ' The Canadas in 1841' (a work containing a good deal of interesting information, but like almost all that have yet been written by those who have visited Canada, rather general in its observations, and in- tended less to satisfy minute and practical inquirers than suited to the prevailing tastes of general readers), Sir Richard observes : — * This part of Upper Canada, from Kettle Creek or Port Stanley, an artificial harbour, round to Sarnia and Go- derich is the garden of the province, being less affected by the weather and climate than other parts, and capable of 114 NC ^S. [4 • If ! '1' producing all the cereal p aminr. in abundance. European fruits of every description flourish ; and tobacco is grown in abundance. The country is diversified by rivers and undulating lands, and covered, where man has not openeu it, with the most luxuriant forests of beech, birch, elm, maple, chestnut, walnut, cherry, black, red, and white oak, hickory, cedar, fir, spruce, and pin'- -nth the wild vine, gooseberries, currants, strawberries, raspberries, and a profusion of flowers. I know of no country more smiling, or of a more generous soil, than this, aid it is rapidly filling up.' — Adieu ! Yours, &c., ^ ' A FOUB^YEARS' RESIDENT. NOTES. rXAIffl OF GsifERAL SiMCOB. ^ Canida having been divided in 1791 into two provinces, Upper and Lower, and General Simcoe the first Lieut-Governor, having established his Government at Newark, now Niagara, in the year following, the ac tivity of mind and energy of the new governor, durii. ^ his short adminis- tration, found full employment in the various means to be used ir. strength- ening the infant colony, by arrangements *o encourage the growth of a po- pulation, as well as by plans for the pccurity of its military position. The Dul£e de It* Rochefoucault Liancourt, in the course of his travels through North America, having crossed the Niagara River into Canada in the fummer of 1795, had an opportunity of becoming closely acqujiinted with Governor Simcoe, who appear* to have imparted to the Duke a full ac- count of his various plans, for the settlement and defence of the country. The choice of a seat of government was chen, as it has continued to b" to the present time, a subject on which opinions o-"3*itly differed. The seat first chosen, at the entrance of Niagara River into Lake Ontario, was naturally enough considered insecure, when in accordance with the treaty of 1794, the fort situated en the opposite bank of the river was I NOTES. 115 -.vith others along the ^outh shore of the lakes, delivered up to the Ameri- cans. Governor Simco upon this cent, first thought of York, now Tor- r onto, situated about niiaway up the north shore of Lake Ontario, and where the gov ;rnnient was afterwards, and continued to be estnblighed, until the recent imperial measure again united the provinces, and liord Sydenham assembled the United Parliament at Kingston, situated at the lower end of Lake Ontario, and head of the River Bt. Law^-ence. An(^ at present the capital of the province of Canada is the city of Montreal. At the early period referred to, the Duko de la Ilochefoncault writes, that ' Governor Simcoe seems to have relinquished the idea of establishing his residence and the seat of government at York. lie intends to remove them to the bank of a river, which is to be found ir. all maps under the name of De la Trenche, and which he has named the Thames. This river, which rises between Lake Huron and Ontario, but is yet not sufficiently explored, is supposed not to be far distant from the Miami or Great (Grand) River. It flows forty or fifty miles in a south-west direction, and empties itself into Lake St Clair, it is the Governor's intention to build hischief town, to which he has given the name of London, about 200mile8 distant from this lake This intended capital is surrounded by all possible means of defence, and is so situated that it may speedily give succour wherever it may be wanted.' The natural advantages which are supposed to have influenced Governor Simcoe, in proposing to plant the future rapital in this spot, are slated in Mr Gourlay's account of Upper Canada, to have been < the central position between the Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Hurou, its fortunate sitimtion on the Thames, the fertility of the country, the mildness and salubrity of its climate, the abundance and purity of its wrter, its means of naval and n ilitary protection, and the facility of com- munication with the above mentioned surrounding lakes.' American and English Books in Canada. It has been stated that two-thirds and more of the books sold >n Ca- nada are United States publications ; and this, notwithstanding a cus- toms' duty of 33 per cent, upon all books imported from the United St tes. This law there is little doubt, however, was more hono''.red in the breach, and a much lower duty is now imposed. London being a gar- rison town, and a large proportion of the inhabitants English, it might be supposed that a taste for works of British publication, with their superior printing and paper, wouli! prevail fully as much as in any other quarter of Canada. Yet a respectable bookseller of the town, Mr Craig, informed the writer, th'xt he usually sold from three to four American publications for one British ; and that there were certain works, the bigh -priced English editions of which not one copy would sell ; but ',( 116 NOTES. whenerer the cheap American one, 1 ^wever inferior, was introduced, he has sold in Instances from 100 to 200 copies. Of Mr Diclions's Notes on America he had sold 150 copies, and had not nearly supplied the demand. This American edition was sold in New Yorlt for 12^ cents, or 6d. ster- ling, and when American and Canada postages were added (1 cent per sheet American, and Id. per sheet Canada postage), and other expenses, the hook was sold in London, Canada, at Is. sterling. Of the English edi- tions of English novels the high prices prevented one copy being sold ; but whenever an American edition was produced the sale usually ave- raged from 40 to 50 copies. Of one American edition of Blackwood's Ma- giizine Mr C. would sell about .30 copies, and nearly the same number of the Edinburgh Review. This edition of the Review sold in New York at Is. ster- ling, and in Canada at Is. 6d. A result of this cheap literature, in the greatly increased circulation, appeared to be somewhat similar to the result of the experiment in Rritain of cheap postage. Individuals who, in Rritu would have only seen the leading magazines and reviews at the publi.. reading-room, or had them a night from the circulating library, in Ca- nada would order one, two, or more, direct from New York, for the period of six months or a year, which they could regularly receive on republica- tion, and have bound and added to their library. Liebig's works of Agri- cultural and An'.mal Chemistry, published in Britain at 10s. 6d., may belaid upon the shelves of the cottager here for Is. oris. 6d. each. And probably the publishers of the^e American editions would dispose of 60,000 copies I From observation and inquiries in other parts of Canada, Toronto, Kingston, and Montreal, the same fact presented itself of a very limited number of copies of British editions of books being sold in these places, as well as westward. Since the introduction of American editions i)f Encrlish copyright works into Canada has been repressed, it is sa' "^factory to observe, that the im- portance of the colonial market has induced two or three respectable Bri- tish publishers to issue publications adapted in price for the colonies. Murray's Colonial Library is one instance, and more i*ecently there is Knight's Weekly Volume, still cheaper. Chambers's People's Edi- tions have for years had considerable sale in Canada, and about two years ago the writer was much gratified to observe a large package of the school-books of these enterprising publishers find their way to supply the principal school of the London district. The proprietors of most of the English magazines have seen it their interest latterly to enter into arrangements with booksellers of Canada to supply their periodicals at reduced rates to the colony. Messrs Armour and Ramsay, Montreal, and Mr Scobie, Toronto, two of the most respectable bookselling houses in Canada, advertise the original editions of mostly all the Britisti maga- ^i ar^^-t' NOTES. 117 lines nnd reviews at prices fully ' lo'ver than those formerly charged for the now prohibited United States reprints.' This is supposed not to refer to the cheapest sort of reprints, but to editions longer and more gene- rally known in Canada. iMPKRFErT Information Conckrnino oi.'R Colonies. It was gratifying to the writer a month or two after the remarks at page 111, had been first i)ublished — (on the present iinnprfect information poss^ jsed at home concerning our co'onies, and the earnest wish expressed that more complete, authoritative, and easily accessible accounts might be circulated, for the benefit alike of the home population, and the colonies) — to And in one of the recent Atlas Prize Essays, similar views and wishes more forcibly expressed. The essay referred to Is by the Itev. Joseph Angus, M.A., and the passage occurs in (,'hapter V : — ' So again of our colonies. In some of them, as in Canada, and Southern Africa, there are noble openings for enterprise and capital. Yet, be- cause of the uncertainty of information concerning them, few emigrate till things are well nigh desperate with them at liome. And then they go 80 thoroughly ill-informed, that there is every reason to fear they will return in disgust. . • IIow truly parental would a Government be, in obtaining and publish- ing, for the guidance of all her children, correct statistical information on the various br*» .iches of home-industry, and the condition of her colonial possessions ; and then, in facilitating (by wise parish regulations at home, wise emigration legulations abroad) the removal of local excess- population to thinly-peopled districts.' Tht further remarks which the same clear- sighted and forcible writer ap- ■; li .'. to districts of the home country, is fully as applicable, if not more so, .: On> colonies. We have certain round rates of wages which have stood 1 • !o(-ped these ten years and more, for this and that colony, with the rt rt .1 'hat such and such descriptions of trades are ' in great request,' witiioji* reflecting that a redundant supply one season, or deticiency the next, must be ever changing both the description and extent o/ demand, and also rates of wages. And again, in a part of the colony where a particular description ol labour is in demand at high rates, in another locaMty the disappointed emigrant is hopelessly wandering, and cannot find employment at any wages whatever. lie is thus apt to reiurn (should his means allow this) heaitless and in disgust, and by his statements in- jure the colony ; while, on the other hand, letters are received from the more t^ourishing locality, and each account being taken within their re- spective circles as applying to the whole colony, conflicting statements, most !i)juriou8 in every way, and disastrous to all regular and healthy colonisation, is the consequence. During the smnmer of 1843, the writer 'L^lrl Hi ■■■ h u , 118 NOTES. ii>l;J, n.| -v.; f-t-' m '»•. '' t^. accidentally met travelling through Canada a respectable and intelligeni individual who had just »• turned from New South Wales, after haviun found it not the kind of place it had been described to him, and who had come to Canada to ascertain from personal observation if it teas a country in which \c was likely to be successful in his 2>articular line of life. What an expenditure of energy and means which the few, very few only, could accomplish or afford ? And yet this, by correct mid Ktatistical information, might have been all saved, and thousands of in dividuals besides, repining in hopeless circumstances at home, might have had a home and the means of hopeful support accurately nnd miuately poir*»d out to them in a country to whose wealth, as well as to their own usel< » • nd happiness, they would have greatly added. How truthful the obse. ns of the essayist I — ' Labour has beei , ^dundant in one district [or country"], and dejiciinl in another ; and no one has found it his business to accommodate both dix- tricts [or countries] by effecting a change. The condition of trade in one locality is often totally unknown in another; and workmen often trnvel through the kingdom in search of what accurate statistical information would have told them that they could have found only in one district, or in greatest abundance, at home. What an immense saving of anxiety, and disappointment, and expense, if Government could publish periodi- cally accurate information on the trade of each district, the average value of labour, and the average supply.' The present emigration machinery of a Board at London, and agent:* at the chief sea-ports at home and in the colonies, may be pointed to on the part of the Government. This machinery, so far as it goes, is of much service ; and the writer even can, with much pleasure, tender liis humble testimony in instances, to the courtesy, care, and ability which these public officers display in performing their respective limits of duties. But machinery more efficient is required. Lord Sydenham 's Esttmatk op Canada. The memory of Lord Sydenham will continue long to live in the affections of the people of Canada, for the true earnestness with which he devoted his whole soul to what he conceived to be for the good of the country. Towards tho close of the Parliamentary Session of 1839, the British Ministry presented their colleagu3 Mr Thomson, then President of the Board of Trade, with a choice of the two more distinguished offices, the Chancellorship of the Exchequer, and the Governor-Generalship of Canada. This office of the Exchequer — • once the object of my greatest ambition' — now within his reach, and along with it his seat in the Cabi- net, and place in Parliament, he gave up, and left to be occupied by hu NOTES. II!) friend Mr Baring. ' Ilia decision was chit-% influenced 1>y the feeling of where he could make bis abilities and energies most useful.* The terms of cordial intimacy on which he lived with Lord Althorp had power- ful weight, in determining his decision. In his diary is this passage : — ' Lord A. said, he thought Canada ' the finest field for exertion for any one, as aflFording (he greatcgt power 0/ doing the greatest good to one't felloto-creaturet.' I agree with him. ' Having arrived at his chosen destination, he writes at Toronto — ' It is the finest country I ever knew, even what I have seen of it in a circle of thirty or forty miles from here ; and by the accounts I receive tlie upper part is even superior. Lower Canada is not to be named in comparison. The climate, the soil, the water power, and facilities of transport finer than any thing in North America.' y -n Improved Prospbcts of thb Country. The accounts received by the steam-ship Acadia in the middle of July last, rei)re8ent the commercial and general industrial affairs of Ca- nada in a very gratifying light. The country appears to experience the benefit of the impulse given by the Government bill, which allows Ca- nada wheat and wheat-flour to enter Britain at an almost nominal duty. The late revisal of the tariff, greatly reducing the duty ui)on other de- scriptions of the colony's produce, has also, as might be expected, mate- rially assisted in bringing about the present favourable prospects. From the opening of the canals, about the latter part of April, to the 25th June, 303,624 barrels of Canada, and 46,408 of American flour, and 111 ,021 tiushels of Canada, and 95,227, of American wheat, had been received at Montreal. This is reported to be more than three times the quantity received in that port to the same date of the previous year, when it was not more than 111,801 barrels of flour, and 48,211 bushels of wheat. The quantity of flour shipped to Britain from Montreal and Quebec to 25th June last, was 140,600 barrels, and of wheat 136,248 bushels. The • Montreal Gazette,' one of the most respectable and intelligent newspapers of the colony, remavks, under date of June 27th : — « We be- lieve at no preceding period was the business of the province in a more sound and healthy condition. There have been seasons of heavier im- ports, of much higher prices of produce, rrising from speculative action ; but we believe there never was one in which a moderate and quiet busi- ness was done on a sounder basis, and with a mori} fair and equable dis- tribution of profits on the general current of exports and imports. * * * * All the accounts represent the breadth of land laid down in both provinces with wheat as unprecedented, and the crops aa looking remarkably healthy.' i ...: tl-: 1-20 NOTES. Imprkssions of a Hbcknt Traveller. The * London (Canada) Inquirer' newspaper, of September 8th 1843, contains an account of a public meeting of the inhabitants of the town, for the purpose of mailing preparations to recieve a visit of the Oovernor- Oeneral, Sir Charles Metcalfe. The Hon. O. J. Goodhue, a member of the Legislative Council, and an inhabitant of London, introduced, in the course of the proceedings, a gentleman, who had resided in Jamaica during the latter part of Sir Charles Metcalfe's administration there, and who, in a tour he was making through Canada, had just arrived in the town. Tlie remarks of this stranger possess much interest. Adverting to the success, which rewarded the exertions of the present Governor- General of Canada, in his administration of Jamaica, Mr O 'Keith took occasion to congratulate the meeting upon the selection of Sir Charles Metcalfe as her Majesty's representative for Canada : — ' I rejoice at it also for the Governor's sake, for it has been truly said of Canada (not the Canadas, for there is now but one) that it presents the largest field for bestowing the greatest amount of human happiness, and how earnestly do I pray that this blessing may fall to your present Gover- uor's lot. His government of Jamaica is a guanintee, and his unbounded public charities, exceeded only by those of a private character, which to my knowledge required a princely fortune to indulge in, speak volumes. • The time is not far distant when this country will be better known than it now is — the time is at hand when our people at home will not consider that coming to Canada is coming to the back woods of a wilderness. Thev will find, as I have found to my great astonishment, good roads, good modes of conveyance, and as good towns as in F^urope, with shops w^U stored, not only with the necessaries but the luxuries of life. They will learn that this town, which now consists of handsome buildings (the one in which we are now assembled, the Mechanics* Institute, giving a stamp of respectability, intelligence, and a taste for the fine arts, of which you may be justly proud), contained but four cottages 14 years ago. These facts will speak trumpet tongued, and render this noble country under British dominion and your unanimity the noblest appendage to her Majesty's dominions. It is the natural and the fittest outlet for the sui)er- abundant capital, people, and enterprise of the mother country, present- ing as it does an opening for the investment not only of thousands, but of millioiis of capital, abounding in all the elements of wealth, navigable rivers, a luxuriant soil, and a congenial climate, and undoubted security on real estiite at high rates of interest, and to an unlimited extent.' \ \ m. m ] -- .,. . .•^nf 7. r 1 : >« V ......'"-^ ,:y?t. .-^;:i^iCS_13W»*«MA» . r -il-J, - ' .^Ji:^,> :^jj: / iVJB— *jaBg!iaaaiai ; > «'4 ■ • UK III) 7■/.,«•.,/,„„.„,, ['/W>IM.„/,„/"" \ I 1 . .ilhnitmii I,. ■^ '■ '' ' I I 'l. I, ^ /il.»), ». ''''>.„*, sr / -5^ ■i>' ■■* y fiv/,- r ^- 141 Mini -a' y ■!(>: ci «:» K2 8J HO 78 77 7« 74l..iii.^iliiili>\\Vsl 7 : I n^os nasi . l.s t'lti •VE^ .11.(1 *t" '' --,(" ,,,1. >^-^' • / - v- l"""""y- ^'/, ,. "^ \ /, J("«<''/'"" UOuiIk-ii ' . I t^' 1..), LJJtuuMiuyimiifit ■in J .V^ -?*i, ■■l» f .''^r. .»V. ^ \. I •* ._ . ~% ^ /y*' Sl' Mill X. r • ;i III I- o Si <*\tV'-).'* 4'iJ , lrt»* NE/JJ* <#i4}< //,ai/bMI i r-v Mjy...:..;... '. li'C- .(Vi_ .".n ,-/«- r-j^ji..!,! I. ;,a1»,„i'!m— ^ '.I'VC^ St-"'"" ,.^ *.»'""i ~V ~-v ^'.'' w."' r"-Jt ill""" i). ^■'5*#^^>."'^^X '''^'*^ '^'^' 'i rnN-nyr.rrios of (i:i It;! ■ II.U.I'. uv M: ' f,!.....,.sl."i ■^>'X' ^: R,'r. It ti^ & J "■ 11 « I Mti»iaiiiM»tiwa ( ! r^ 'fe., i ' i - * H i.w m H to ' ft t>ii"'* " * '' '*' « w#*wh MNiM«MMM«#M ^^ggm^' APPENDIX T() THE LETTERS CONTAINING MORE PARTICULAR AND DETAILED INFORMATION, Vti ■il^ <■' :;iv^' f ■; <;;■ .!i'^ .1.' ■,< ' UKI (,!• w '/■*' m' \tM' i K ' *t " . W^' ' ■m w* Ff 11' < APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. STATk riCAL AND SUMMARY VIEW OF THE POPULATION AND RESOURCES OF THE LONDON DISTRICT. Township. Population. OrcuiMK Land. l[un.SU.S AND Cattlk. 1 TOTAI, AdSKHSED PllOPKnTY. S a> 1 §1 ill S "3 rt £ ^ > % .1? JAhlborough,. . jDunwich, South wold, . . . VaiTOouth,. ... Malahide Bayhani Mosa, Ekfrid Carradoc Delaware, Westminster,.. Dorcliester, \ Jf.andS...; Adfciaide, |Lobo, London London, Town, Total, Lon-\ ^onDistrict, J ,337 356 1,064 1,992 1,116 1,147 598 5(59 489 208 1,440 330 682 575 2,141 1,082 348 346 1,034 1,070 1,071 1,049 548 528 439 190 1,240 290 526 594 2,038 99(5 685 702 2,098 3,762 2,187 2,196 1,146 1,097 928 .3,98 2,680 620 1,108 1,169 4,179 2,078 12,.372 25,742 34,0(50 40,7(50 33,986 30,593 19,217 22,563 19,950 4,642 38,678 17,480 30,877 25,284 64,300 677 3,143 2,7.34 14,188 16,.394 9,6(54 6,090 3,1.')1 2,531 3,.365 1,285 12,059 2,796 3,3.38 3,833 16,950 62 609 744 2,088 2,557 1,643 1,480 809 810 736 255 1,908 743 978 1,091 2,912 232 92 12.S 471 63;^ 446 334 126 9(i 97 62 44r) 106 71 139 688 161 £7,024 11,373 31,660 46,909 26,7.31 23,688 10,160 9,414 9,(535 5,618 29,934 9,581 11,767 12,162 41,499 16,251 14,126 13,004 27,033 421,186 101,283 19,495 4,087 £302,306 • ' '■,!■■ 122 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. fcpy ■u MODE OF TAKING THE CENSUS AND LEVYING TAXES. The contents of the preceding table are collected from the official census for the year 1841. This census is taken an- nually in Canada by individuals named assessors, chosen in each township, for the nurpose chiefly of ascertaining the amount of property liable to be assessed for taxes. These taxes, limited by law to a certain amount, are imposed by the popularly elected body, the District Council, and applied for purposes within the district, such as the making and repairing of roads and bridges, the maintenance of the public buildings of Court-house and Jail, of the public offices of Sheriff, Treasurer, Clerk of the Peace, and others, and the support of education. The value of each description of property is fixed by law, and is uniform over the whole colony ; cultivated land is valued for the purposes of being thus assessed at 20s. currency, or lO's. sterling per acre ; and uncultivated, at 4s. currency, or 3s. 3d. sterling. Common wooden houses of one storey are valued at £1C brick or stone houses of one storey at £32 ; horses at LO', 10s., cind milch cows at X2, 9s. sterling. These rates are all under real value. The returns of these assessors are htmded over to township collectors, who gather the fix id amount of taxes within the township, and transmit the amount, with the returns of the assessors, to the treasurer of the district. Copies of these returns again, consolidated into district returns or tab]ef% are transmitted by the district to a department of the Colonial Govertiment, along with a copy of the treapurer's accounts for the year in detail. These documents are thereafter printed, and laid before the Colonial Legislature. At the end of each session, thc^y are bound up with the journals and statements of other public accounts and transactions, and a limited num- ber of copies distributed throughout the country. This is a simple and satisfactory mode of procedure in levying taxes, and of ma-iing known the manner in which they are applied ; DESCRIPTION OF PROrERTY ASSESSED. 123 while recording from year to year the progress of the country, it serves as a check at the same time upon public offices. A chief design in detiiiling this just now, however, is to show, that the statements oi value of the assessed property of these colonists in the London district of Canada may be depended upon as correct, and may therefore serve as data in estimating the amount of such property. Besides returns of the amount of assessed property, the census is now designed to include the quantities of the several kinds of crops produced, and parti- culars of other branches of industry and popular statistics. DESCRIPTION OF PROPERTY ASSESSED, AND ESTIMATE OF REAL VALUE. Property liable to assessment is limited to lands, dwelling- houses, flour and saw mills, distilleries, merchants' shops and store-houses, horses and cattle, and farmers' wag^-^ns and pleasure carriages. The amount of this property, according to the assessed value within the district of London, appears to be, in round numbers, £302,000, which, divided among the population of 27,000, would allow %e amount of £11, 3s. ster- ling to each inhabitant, man and child ; or to each family, taking five individuals as the average, an amount slightly ex- ceeding £60. Rating the assessed value a? about one-half the real value (=1 vuoderate estimate, since both cleared and un- cleared lands are worth more than triple the assessed rates), the assessed property within the district will amount to between luilf a million and three quarters of a million sterling, and the individual and family shares, divided among the population of 27,000, would be respectively £24, 6s. , and £120, and over. This, no doubt, is dividing the property of a community in a rather rough unauthorised manner, when it is considered, moreover, that no two members have contributed alike to the general amount. There being number^, of course, of these 27,000 in the London district belonging to the class of working tradesmen and labourers, who have no property in- I '■! •; .■ i 124 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. 1:1' -, ■^:'•k■.v,■^ i:'M; ■■■; -'i' eluded in the assessor's returns. These deducted from the class of farmers, including a limited number of tradesmen, shop-keepers, and a few professional and private individuals, a larger amount of property would be shown to be in possession of the mass of settled colonists. Among these established colo- nists there are very few individuals possessed of very much larger means than their neighbours. This, generally speaking, may be taken to be the condition of the colony. Exceptions of a kind of distinct class of colonists there may be said to be in the merchant capitalists in the cities of Quebec, Montreal, and Toronto. m !i' !% ,> IK. I, THE BEGINNINGS AND PRESENT CONDITION OF THE COLONISTS. The colonists of Upper Canada may be divided into two chief classes — the one composed of those individuals, and their im- mediate descendants, who, in their steadfast allegiance to Bri- i? n, removed into the province on the occasion of the old co- lonies ieclaring their independence ; and the other, that por- tion of the population, and their families, who emigrated di- rectly from Britain. Several of the first named of these classes of colonists settled in the London district towards the close of last century, and others during the early part of the pre- sent, about 1812 or so. These old settlers, commonly known as U.E.'s {United Empire Loyalists), received their allotments of 200 acres each of forest land. And besides this, and their axe, and one or two of the most fortunate having, perhaps, a horse, a cow, and a pair of oxen, these hardy and brave men maybe said to have commenced their life of colonists in Cannda in posses- sion only of their own indomitable perseverance and industry. At their early settlement encountering the attacks of plunder- ing marauders during the continuance of the last war, and be- ing subject to military service, as well as contending to fub- due the forest under many disadvantages, they did not, i^s might be conceived, make much progress in prosperity for some PROGRESS OF THE COLONISTS. 125 :i^- considerable time. After the war haa ceased to aanoy in a direct manner, the want of roads, markets, and other conveni- ences, still interrupted their progress. As C anada became better known, and emigration commenced somewhat steadily to liow into the country, their prospects brightened. And the most industrious and enterprising of these colonists now, are in com- paratively independent and easy circumstances. Having set- tled chiefly along the banks of Lake Erie, in the lake-shore townships, and a few in Delaware and Westminster, the re- turns for these settlements affoid evidence of this. The other class of colonists, the emigrants irom Britain, have chiefly set- tled in this district of London within the last twenty years, or little more ; and the great mass of these were persons of humble means. It has been chiefly during these late years that indi- viduals of small capital, from the middle classes of Britain, have become settlers in the district. The whole of the colo- nists of Western Canada may be said to have acquired their lands chiefly in threeways,— either directly from Government, from private holders, or from the Canada Company. The early colonists received their lands for the most part from Govern- ment as free grants, or upon the payment of fees, varying from about £8 to £10. Colonel Talbot, , the part of the Govern- ment, settled a considerable number in this manner. The first settlers in the township of London, under the auspices of Mr Talbot in 1818, all of them persons of very limited means, also received grants of Government land. Such were the cir- cumstances of the mass of the earliest settlers. Those who have settled latterly have chiefly purchased their lands from private hands, and from the Canada Company. The class who pur- chased in the former manner have mostly been persons with some little capital, who have settled upon partly cultivated farms. I'he Canada Company — whose known respectability and fair and li- beral dealings have done much to encourage settlement in Ca- nada, and to whom the colony is greatly indebted— recently pub- lished a series of statistical returns, showing the success of their ' '■ ' .1 », ,_ 1 t ■.' ■■' ' -■■; f i- 4 , . m W,,'J. fx ]26 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. Iff-" n, ■ ' '.'4 I? ' 'if*"- settlers in various parts of Canada. As this publication lias rel'erence to the London district, it will prove serviceable in illustrating our present subject. It may be proper to premise that the settlers of the Canada Company, whose prosperous circumstances are here statistically stated, are likely all to have commenced their career since 182G, the year in which the Company, by its incorporation, became connected with Canada. Of eight persons in the township of Aldborou^'h^ who settled on the Company's lands, four commenced with capitals of £20 and under, and four with capitals over £20. The first named four, whose average capitals at commencement amounted to £13 each, were in possession, in 1840, of property, amounting on an average to £337 each. Tb'* other four, whose average ca- pitals at commencement amounted to £37, 10s., possessed in 1840 properties averaging £437, 10s. each. Of 24 settlers in Malahide, two commenced without capital, two with capitals of £20, and 20 with capitals of £175 each. These last were in possession of property in 1840 to the amount of £552 each, the settlers of £20 capitals had properties of £100 each, and the two without capitals lad properties of £300 each. Of 15 settlers in Lobo five had no capital, one had £20, and nine £161 each. These last, in 1840, had more than doubled their capitals, the one with £20 had a property of £260, and the five, who had no capital, had properties averaging a little over £400 each. The townships of London and Westminster present similar results. An analysis of returns showing the average state of 164 settlers at < * inmencement in various parts of Canada, and their condition in 1840, presents 310, who ar- rived in Canada with no capital, possessing collectively pro- perty to the amount of £95,787, being an average for each of about £309 ; 113 with sums of £20 and under, collectively possessing property to the amount of £36,548, being an average for each of £323; 217, averagi g capitals of £12.5 each, possessing properties to the collective amount of £91, 69G, being an average for each of £422. Sucli results prove very CROPS AND VALUE OF WHEAT. 127 distinctly the encouragement which Canada offers to her far- mer coloniN't!?^ nnd show how moderate the means have been with which the greater number have commenced their career. CROPS PRODUCED. The census returns which, in 1841, showed a population of 27,033, possessing 101,283 cultivated acres within the district, presented in 1842 a population of 29,657, with 109,706 acres under cultivation. The crops of the various grains raised for that year, namely wheat, barley, rye, oats, pease, Indian corn or maize, and buck wheat, amounted to above 713,000 bushels, 246,000 of which were of wheat; and of potatoes there were raised nearly 270,000 bushels. The respective quantities are stated in the Second Letter, page 26. Besides those crops in- cluded in the statistical leturns, all the various grasses and turnips are grown; and both silk and tobacco in instances have been produced jn small quantities. PRICE OF WHLAT, AND COST OF TRANSPORT TO ENGLAND. Wheat is the great staple in Canada, and generally com- mands a CL ' . market. The price per bushel, upon an average of seven years, has been calculated to be 3s. 6d., fluctuating usually between 2s. P 1. and 4s. 6d. The rate of agricultural labour, varying in particular districts and seasons, may be stated to be from 2s. to 3s. a-day ; and the average produce of wheat, per acre, 25 bushels. The cost of transporting a bushel of wheat from the shores of Lake Erie to England is esti- mated at 2s. 6d., covering all charges. The imperial quarter, which, as stated by Mr M'Culloch, averages in England 57s., contains 9 bushels and 20 lb. wheat, at 60 lb. to the bushel. It fippears then that the average price of wheat in Canada is 32s. Hd., say on the shores if Lake Ontario. On Lake Erie it will be about 30s., and, adding the cost of transport to England of 23s. 4d., the result will be that Canada wheat, exclusive of duty, could have been presented in the English market on the averag(^ I ;i|i 5'> J 28 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. of the last seven years at 53s. 4d. a-quarter. The cost of tran- sporting a bushel of wheat 20 to 30 miles from the interior to Lake Erie is at present about 6d. a-bushel on indifferent roads ; but as the roads are improved, which is now being the case, this cost will be lessened. And as the interior navigation of the canals is also now being perfected, the cost of transport to England will be likewise lessened. The present improving state of agriculture, and the tendency of labour to become cheaper with the increase of population, are also other circum- stances favourable to the colony ; and the general result in no long time m^y be expected to show itself in a gratifying and marked manner. The average produce of the wheat crop in Canada, as has been stated, is believed at present to be about 25 bushels. It varies, however, from year to year, owing to the late and early frosts, and other circumstances. I« :'i>' it. -1 ,^ 1^-i^frv^ i MISCELLANEOUS PRODUCE. The settler's time during winter is usually employed in fell- ing and cutting up trees for burning in the spring, in taking care of his cattle, and in bringing what produce he may have to market. The ground when covered even with several inches of snow, smoothing the roads greatly facilitate travelling, and the far back bush-settler is eager then to make use of his rude sledge and pair of oxen to bring his stores of produce to the towns. The farmer's family, besides visiting and other amuse- ments, usually employ themselves in spinning, knitting, and such female occupations. The census of 1842 showed nearly 100,000 lbs. of wool produced that year, and 110,000 yards of domestic cloths, all mostly of woollen material, and the opera- tions of carding, spinning, weaving, dyeing, and dressing which, were performed within the district. The domestic in- dustry of the inhabitants is further shown by the quantity ol" sugar made during the year from the sap of the maple tree, amounting to nearly one hundred and eighty tons (177 tons, 17 cwt., 2 qrs., 12 lb.). Maple-sugar making takes place, and oc- MISCELLANEOUS PRODUCE. 12{) cupies some short time during early spring. Besides the above leading branches of domestic industry, and the knitting of wool- len socks, stockings, mitts, and gloves, for the winter season and straw-hats and bonnets for summer, not only for family use, but for sale in the shops, economical and industrious families frequently make their own soap, candles, blacking, ink, and nnegar. Soap is made very simply from the ley of wood- ashes and kitchen grease, and vinegar from the sap of the maple tree. The varieties of bread baked by the settlers, and upon which, in the exercise of their unaffected hospitality, they somewhat pride themselves, are quite innumerable almost — from the sub- stantial cone of the common wheaten cottage loaf to the wafers of warm buck- wheat pancakes, seasoned with a very agreeable kind of molasses from the serviceable maple tree. A farmer's table hospitably displayed to the passing friend, although with no preparations from the perhaps distant town, is quite a pic- ture of comfortable primitive content. His own housewife's bread from the grain of his own fields, the beef, mutton, and poultry from his barn-yard, trouts from the stream at the foot of his farm or the near river, with butter, cheese, and cream in abundance, sr^ar from his own ' maple-grove,' apple, plum, peach, and other preserves from the orchard sheltering and beautifying his own dwelling, beneath whose roof-tree he sits, unburdened by either rent or tithe, and scarcely knowing any- thing deserving the name of taxes — his cleanly and cheerful log-fire blazing from the supplies of his own forest — and it may be— more to enliven the scene, and as the good laird of Wood- hill has described it — a group of * olive plants' are growing up around him, without having to bestow one anxious thought re- f/arding their future welfare, in a country which provides so amply, comfortably, and easily for all. True, the farmer has his cares, his toils, his anxieties— and who in life has not ? — md it might be, that without such, comforts would not be so much enjoyed. ■-1 {'.. rW'& sm m f I 1 i II m !i! pil m Iff A 130 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. MILLS AND MANUFACTOIIIES. The following h a tabular view of the number of flour and other mills, and public works in the district : — Paper do. , . .2 Iron Works, • . 2 Tanneries, . .11 Pot & Pearl Ash Manufactory, 1 Other Manufactories, . 9 Total Mills and Manufac- tories in the District, 166 Flour or Grist Mills, . 31 Oatmeal do., . 2 Barley do.. 1 Thrashing do. , . . 25 Saw do., . • 59 Oil do., . 5 Fulling do., 7 Carding do., . 11 ;i- .V^ ■ t.; \ ;•■ i DESCRIPTION OF POPULATION. The description of population in the district, the countries to which they originally belong, and the numbers composing the various religious sects, are already tabularly stated in the First Letter, page 12. This official statement shows the proportion of colonists directly from England, Scotland, and Ireland, to be nearly equal — those from England, being 2800, numbering least, from Scotland nearly 3000, and those from Ireland some- what over 3000. The proportion bom in Canada are about three-fifths of the entire population, there being above 18,000. Those from the United States amount to 2200, and the re- maining 300 are composed of natives of the continent of Europe, and French Canadians, Of the various religious bodies the Church of England presents the largest number of adher- ents, there being in the district over 6000 in connection with that Church. The Church of Scotland (in 1842) shows the next largest number, there being over 4000 connected with it. The three several classes of Methodists are also nu- merous, and, taken collectively, outnumber the Church of Scotland adherents. Baptists and Anabaptists number over 3000. [It may be here stated, in connection with this subject, that the building belonging to the Church of England body, ■i. TAXES ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICK. 131 uliicli was a conspicuous structure in the town of London, was lately destroyed by fire, but in likely soon to be replaced by a larger as well as handsomer edifice.] TAXES. A great change has talcen place with regard to the internal government of Canada, in the recent institution of District Councils. These councils are composed of a Warden, ap- pointed by the Governor, and two Councillors returned from every township having above 300 householders. Every house- holder is entitled to a vote in the election of these Councillors. The District Councils have the sole power to impose taxes within a limited amount, and these taxes are expended for purposes of local improvement, and the administration of jus- tice within the district. The usual amount of taxes levied is l^d. on the pound of assessed property. Upon unoccupied and uncultivated lands the District Councils have the power to im- pose a tax of l^d, on the pound of assessed value. This tax is found to be beneficial in discountenancing large proprietors holding back their lands from settlement. A statute-labour lax for making and repairing roads is levied in the London district at the rate of 2s. 6d. for every single man, and 2s. 6d. tor every £50 of rateable property. Individuals in the country- parts usually perform this labour personally or by deputy. The Government of the colony is chiefly supported from a cus- toms duty of five per cent, upon imports of British goods, a moderate duty upon imports from the United States, an excise, and a territorial revenue from Government lands. ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. The laws and forms of administrating them are based upon those of England, so far as applicable to the circumstances of the country. The administration of justice within each dis- ;.'''i^ .li. :m. 139 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. ■"/•"fi' I '% ■ \-li- trict is entrusted to Justices of the Peace, wlio meet in Quarter Sessions, to a District Judge, whose jurisdiction extends to simple contracts above £10 and under £40, and to questions of personiil property and trespass ; tliere is also a Sheriff for each district, a Clerk of the Peace, and Treasurer. There is a Court-house and Jail in each district town, at which the Quarter Sessions and District Judge hold their sittings. The Court of Queen's Bench for the province, composed of a Chief Justice and four other judges, holds two regular terms or circuits at each district town. The duties are analogous to the Scottish Courts of Justiciary and Session. There are six small debt, called Division Courts, established in separate localities, in each district, and held every two months in each division, and presided over by the District Judge. The District Council is an incorporated municipal body, charged with a general super- intendence of the affairs of the district, and holds its sessions, presided over by the Warden, four times a-year. Towns in Canada having a certain number of inhabitants, say about 2000, may receive a legislative act of incorporation entitling the inhabitant householders, possessing freeholds of the assessed value of £40, to vote in the election of members to compose a municipal board, for the superintendence of the affairs of the town. There is such a body for the town of London, under the designation of the President and Board of Police, having powers to assess the inhabitants within a limited amount for the general improvement and regulation of the town. A population increasing to about 10,000 may be incorporated as a city, possessing the privilege to elect a Mayor, Aldermen, and Com mon Councilmen. PUBLIC OFFICES LIABLE TO BE SERVED BY COLONISTS. There are annual meetings held in the month of January in each township for the election of office-bearers, charged with the regu- lation and management of certain local matters within the town- PUBLIC OFFICES SERVED BY COLONISTS. 1 :\ti hhip. Every houHeholder is liable to serve theae ofiices, which are AssesHor, Collector, Township Clerk, School Commissioner, Road Master, Pound Keeper, and Fence Viewer. The Iload Master has a general superintendence of the roads, and directs the application of the statute labour; the Pound Keeper takes intokeepinir or *pound' strayed cattle, and advertises for owners ; the Fence Viewer has a superintendence of the fences of the township, to ensure their being kept in a proper condition, so that cattle may not encroach upon and destroy property. Two Dis- f.rict Councillors, besides, are elected from each township, hav- ing 300 householders, and one when the township has fewer. These Councillors require to possess freehold property of the value of £300 currency. Members of the Provincial Parlia- ment require to be possessed of freehold property of the value of £000 currency. Freeholders only are allowed to vote in the election of members of the Legislature. Freeholds in Ca- nada, however, are easily obtained. The district of London, or rather the county of Middlesex, which now composes the present district, returns one member to the Provincial Parlia- ment, and the town returns one. The member for Middlesex is the present much respected Surveyor-General of Canada, Thomas Parke, Esq. The member for the town is Lawrence Lawrason, Esq., a successful merchant in London. Mr Parke is liberal in his politics, yet moderate ; and L^r Lawrason, who only recently succeeded the President of the Board of Works, H. H. Killaly, Esq. (that gentleman having resigned his seat to enable him to devote his time exclusively to the duties of his office) is understood to be conservative in his opinions, yet also moderate, and personally much respected. ROADS AND GENERAL IMPROVEMENTS. It is satisfactory to be able to state that the people of Ca- nada have never at any former period been more fully impressed than they are at present with the vital importance of good roads. This state of feeling is in a great measure the result (k;;; l l.r J ]3i APPKNniX TO TIIK LKTTKRS. FA allw ','■»» E7 ■■■■ J>>.«t. i, It I*"* of tho stimulus imparted by the late loan of a million and a- half of money, guaranteed hy the HomeGovcrnnK'nt for carry- ing on public worlvH in the colony. And Sir Charles Metcalfe, having introduced the subject prominently in his speech on tia occasion of opening the last session of the Legislature, materi- ally assisted in further arousing public attention. The western parts of the province have been greatly benefited by the vny seasonable loan. A sum of above £200,000 provincial cur- rency, or nearly £170,000 sterling, was set apart for public- improvements westward of Lake Ontario. These consist in the repair and new formation of harbours, light-houses, roads and bridges, but chiefly roads and bridges. The main pro- vincial road, leading from Hamilton at the head of Lake On- tario, westward, through the town of London, when completed, as it is intended to be this year, will be one of the best roads that could be wished in any country. Part of it, for some disfance west of Hamilton, has for many years been an excel- lent macadamized road ; the rest of the distance, througli London and south-westward to Chatham, is to be laid witli planking three inches thick, and 12 and 16 feet long, laid cross- ways upon a succession of ' sleepers.' The entire breadth of the road is 6G feet, 30 feet of which, along the crown or centre, is thoroughly levelled, and properly sloped towards drains, upon each side ; and it is upon this prepared 30 feet of breadth that the planking is laid to a width of 12 feet, and near towns, where there is increased trafilc, the width is IG feet. The cost of this description of road, which is comparatively new in Canada, is £850 provincial, or nearly £700 sterling currency, per mile. The exact distance from Hamilton to London is 86 miles, thence to Chatham Gdh miles, forming an entire dis- tance of 150 miles, extending through the length and culti- vated centre of the peninsula. The road is intended to be continued from Chatham along the south shore of Lake St Clair, and onwards, following the course of the Detroit llivcr to the town of Amherstburgh, situated near the mouth of that ROADS AND GEXKRAL IMrUoVKMKNTS. 13.) river, wliere it joins Lake Erie. Another pljuikcd road is one k'luliiipf I'roni the town of liondon southward to Port Stanley upon Lake Erie, a distance of 2ii^ miles. A hranch of the main western road from tlie head of Lake Ontario — if it may nut he called the main ctmtimiation — extends from London nearly due west to the agreeahly situaied village of Sarnia, head of the River St Clair, and foot of Lake Huron. The old j)()st-road to Sarnia was a distaui-e of 7'2 miles, hut this new ;u)d improved line is some miles shorter. The Sarnia road, which for 40 miles is entirely new, opening a stretch of fertile tountry where only thick forest existed, is not at present to be planked. For general evenness and breadth, and forming for many miles a perfectly straight line, this road is held to be unetpialled in Canada. The road of GO miles northward from London to the town of G ode rich, at the mouth of the lliver Maitland on Lake Huron, though not as yet, is likely soon to lie, planked. This road, cutting quite through the township of London, and extending onwards through the richly fertile Ais- triot of Huron, is one the improvement in planking which will confer great advantages upon many rapidly growing settlements, and also much benefit the town of London. The general result, indeed, of these new improvements in the roads of the country will undoubtedly, in the course of a few years, be of a most marked and gratifying nature. The old Kinds along the bed of soft natural soil are great drawbacks ; ior whenever the weather becomes wet they are rendered so very bad as to be almost impassable, except with a very light load drawn by a pair of oxen or horses. On the planked roads double the old loads is likely to be drawn with less expenditure of animal pov.'cr, and in less time, and always with complete f ertainty, whatever may be the state of the weather. The farmers, thus encouraged, will be stimulated to produce more than they now do, and the good effects to the market towns, :!s well as to the producers themselves, and therefore, of course, to the whole country, must soon become very apparent. 136 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS, hi ' '' 11: I': 1 ■ An iir.madiate and highly beneficial result is already experi- enced in the excellent drainage adopted throughout the whok- of these roads having dried long stretches of land along the lines that stood much in need of such an operation. The success of this, 'n Ae way of example to the farmers, who may thus be induced more to practice draining, is an addifional benefit. The scientific and improved practical modes in which the general formation of the roads, under the superin- tendence of experienced engineers, are being conducted, have already, it is said, been the means of introducing material im- provements in the management of the lesser roads through the country, dependent upon the common statute labour, which used to be generally performed in a slovenly and imper- fect manner. To the establishment of the new depart- ment in Canada of a Board of Works, the country alto- gether already affords evidence of being very greatly in- debted. The completion of the St Lawrence canals, these plank roads, Port Stanley and other harbours, bridges, and other works, have all been simultaneously carried on with an efficiency, economy, and promptitude, which, while it proves the immeasurable superiority of this over the old sys- tem 0^ local commissioner or trusteeship, notorious for reckless expenuiture and general inefficiency, reflects great credit upon the gentleman entrusted with the presiding control of the de- partment. Mr Killaly's scientific acquirements, as well as thoroughly practical and active business talents, have, along with other qualities, won for him general respect in the pro- vince. From the clear and business-like report presented by him to the Legislature during the last session, it appears that not one of the many provincial works had even during their early stages of progress cost over 12^ per cent., and the great bulk of them only about 7, 5, 1, and 3 per cent, for cost of su- perintendence. "When completed, it is estimated this cost of superintendence will be reduced, in many cases, to one-half these rates, and for the canals the per centage for superinten- dence will be about 2 to 1^ upon the gross expenditure. GENERAL IMPROVEMENTS. 137 Besides the plank roads mentioned, the other public works in progress, orrecently completed, in this western section of Cana- da are— P'^rt Stanley harbour, estimated to cost about £120,000 sterling, and repairs on Port Burwell harbour and road above £0000 ; a light-house and light-ship at Long Point, and harbour at Port Dover, Talbot District, and road thence to Hamilton, crossing the Grand River by abridge at the village of Caledonia ; a light-house and harbour at Rondeau, Western District, and road thence to Chatham, connecting Lake Erie with that town, upon the River Thames — the breadth of the neck of land being only about 15 miles. It was once proposed to cut a canal here, which would have saved to a large :i,nd productive portion of country about 100 miles of lake and river navigation ; but oV)- stacles in the nature of the country to be intersected, caused the design for the present to be abandoned. Another projected work in this great western peninsula, but which will, it is ex- pected, yet be carried out, is a railway running westward from the head of Lake Ontario to the towns of Sandwich, Chatham, or Sarnia. The merchants from the far Western States of Wisconsin, Illinois, and Michigan, on their periodical jour- no to the eastern cities of New York, Boston, &c. to pur- chase, very frequently, especially in winter, make use of the route through Canada as being more direct than the cir- cuitous line around their own south shore of Lake Erie. The present plank roads may for some time, however, super- 'de the necessity for this work. And the country probably vill be more generally benefited by undivided attention iieing still further directed in prosecuting improvements upon tlie common roads. Besides these main plank roads, ti ere are numerous of tiers intersecting the country. The number of these other roads may be understood from the manner of laying out or dividing ii t<,vvnship. Townships are twelve miles square, and are tlivided into sixteen strips of territory, which strips are called voncessions. These concessions run from east to west, and se -. * '4-. 'i m. &'■ if vi-'V',,' i:»J APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. eueh division line is a good broad road of S6 feet. The con- cessions are again subdivided into lots or farms by lines cross- ing north and south, and roads also intersect in the same direc- tion at convenient distances. It may be stated as a somewhat singular circumstance in connection with travelling in this part of Canada, that hun- dreds of miles may be traversed without the sight of a single toll-house or gate. With the exception of one or two upon the macadamized roads in the vicinity of Hamilton, tolls mav be said to be unknown in this part of the country. "With the introduction of the new plank roads, there will be for the firM time the novelty of toll-gates, m WAGES, REJNTS, AND PRICES OF PROVISIONS. ^i mm Wages. Much inconvenience to individuals has been the conse- (juence of the indiscriminate information circulated with re- spect to the demand and remuneration for different kinds of labour in Canada. Persons frequently arrive in the colony buoyed with high hopes of their services being in great re- (|uest at certain high rates, which they found invariably quoted in the emigration guide books they had read. Did they know that in most instances this sort of information has been handetl down in stereotype from one writer to another year after year, while the state of things within the colony all the while con- tinued more or less changing, much less dependence would of course be placed upon it; and they would not, on arriving in the colony, refuse, in their false expectations, the offer of moderate wages, and have painfully to experience this error when both their patience and means for further travelling ore exhausted. Another prevalent mistake is, that inferior de- scriptions of tradesmen suit and find employment almost as V-eil as the best in C'.mada— the colony, as individuals reasor., STATE OF THE TRADES IN CANADA. 1 ;]9 being young, and therefore inacunparatively rude state, gooi workmanship is not in request. This may apply to small vil- lages or country settlements; but the case in regard to the towns is for the most part quite the reverse. In the principal towns of Canada, labour being usually well remunerated, the worlanauship required is not inferior to that in the best towns in Britain. Inferior hands experience difficulty in getting employment, while superior tradesmen in most branches are highly prized. Certain trades, again, it would be well for many would they reflect, have little or no encouragement at all in Canada — such as those engaged in the finer descriptions i»f manufactures which the colony import from Britain or the United States. Others must also have to take into account how the seasons may affect their particular branch, as the long frost in winter materially lessens the wages of the plasterer, bricklayer, and stone-mason on the average of the year. And again, the rates of the generality of trades vary in diiferent jjarts of the country, and in the same parts at particular periods. With regard to the hours of labour it may be stated generally, that they are somewhat longer, and the application closer, than in Britain. Tradesmen who have been long in any part of North America usually get accustomed to put work aiore speedily through their hands, and are generally more in- ventive in the variety of their modes of doing work, than ' old country ' tradesmen. Minute periodical statistics from the seve - ral districts, specifying, for instance, the numbers engaged in the various trades, with the rates of wages, and remarks regarding the probable demand, would be of great benefit as a guidance to the home population as well as to the general interests of rhe colony. The respective districts might, assisted by the pro- vincial Government, collect and publish this information as part of an yearly census ; and the parent Government might >uperintend its cheap periodical distribution at home. From personal observation and inquiries in the London district, and 'tthcr parts of Canada, which are stated, in 1843, a few particu- lars regarding several of the trades are here subjoined :— w Jp " w JV :. Wi ,: ., jfl ' .. I 1 1 -*!? 1- '( », , .'" •p 140 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. HOUSE CARPENTERS AND JOINERS. Both these trades, from the number of buildings, chiefly ot wood, which are required, do well in Canada. Indifferent hands, however, need not expect much encouragement, as there are a great many of these already in the country frt - quently unemployed. The rate of wages may be quoted to he from 4s. to 5s. a-day sterling (and it may be here mentioned that in this currency all rates, when not otherwise stated, v\ill be understood to be quoted). Master tradesmen usually charge 20 per cent, upon their journeymen's wages. The price of yellow pine boards is usually from 32s. to 40s. per thousand feet, for common quality, inch thick ; and the best clean boaidy vary from 40s. to 60s., generally about 48s. These boards are usually cut into lengths from 10 to 12 feet, and vary from three- fourth inch to two inches thick. BRICKLAYERS. A more limited number of this trade is required, and chiefly in settlements that ha\e some progress, where the in- habitants have acquired the means and leisure to substinitc more substantial and durable materials for wood. Tornntfi and Hamilton are towns which build a good deal of brick. Montreal and Kingston are now building chiefly of stent'. The rate of wages of bricklayers in the London district, in 18'i^, was from 6s. to 7s. a-day. The winter season is much against this trade, as only eight months' work in the year can be calculated upon. The brick work for the new Jail and Court-house erected last year in the town of London, was esti- mated at Hid. per cubic foot. Respecting this price, how- ever, the Board of Works, in exercising their power of control, remarked that such was fully double the usual price, where materials are convenient. Good bricks, the price of which may be calculated about 12s. per thousand, are made in se- veral places in the vicinity of the town, and generally through- out the district. '■e.?'^"-^ WAGES AND STATE OF TRADES. 141 tiy ut ferent it, as y fre. I to l)e tioned d,Mill charge rice of ousaiid boards irds are 1 three- ed, and the in- ibstitute Torontd )f hriek. )f stOTU.'. strict, in is macVi year can Jail aiui was esti- ice, how- )f control, je, where of which ,de in se- - throngh- STONE-MASONS. Very few of this trade have as yet found encouragement, west of Hamilton. In that town several substantial stone huildings have been erected from a neighbouring quarry. Stone, however, is now being found in various parts westward. The public Court-house in the town of Goderich, district of Huron, 60 miles north of London, is built of stone. Since the preceding letters were written, a quarry of limestone, very suit- ahle for building, has been discovered, and considered to be al- most inexhaustible, four miles from the town of London. The new Jail has been partly built with it. Before the discovery was made known, the estimate for ruble stone work in foundations, dwarf walls, cess pools, &c., was ll^d. per cubic foot, and after the quarry was made known, it lessened the same de- scription of work about one-half, it being then estimated at 6d. per foot. Stone from this quarry has been charged to the London district 6s. 2d. per cord of 128 cubic feet, and the quarrying cost besides 4s. Id. per cord, and the carting for the four miles into London was 22s., making a total cost delivered in the town of 32s. 3d. Lime and sand are had in abundance, both near the town and throughout the district. The best towns for masons are Kingston and Montreal; in the latter city, now the seat of Government, a good demand for hands, I would say, may be expected. During the season of 1843, the wages of masons in Montreal were from 4s. to 6s. a-day. The working season may be estimated to be from 1st May to 1.5th November. PLASTERERS. This trade is much required in Canada, as houses of every description, except the very poorest, are lathed and plastered the same as in Britain. Wages about the same as bricklayers; and the same drawback of a long season of frost applies also to this trade. 4 'I IS"' .■ it ; % h ? \^: APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. PAINTEUS. This is a good trade in Canada, and all the individuals i iiave known engaged in it have had opportunities of prosper- ing. Wooden houses, besides inside painting, usually receive two or more coats of white or stone colour, on every part out- side, excepting the roof. The paintershereabouts work mostly upon their own account, and charge by the job. Carriage paint- ters, of which a limited number are required, receive about 4s. a-day with board, or about 32s. a-week without board. BLACKSMITHS. This trade is one which will always employ many hands in Canada, chiefly owing to the quantity of waggons, carriages, and agricultural implements in demand, and the number of horses requiring to be shod. Wages may be stated to be £4 a-month with board, and 4s. to 6s. a-day without board. Iron work is charged by blacksmiths fromCd. to lOd. per lb., and horse-shoe- ing 6s. a set. English iron was selling in the western parts of Canada in 1841 at from 16s. to 18s., and Swedish at 28s. per cwt. Three Rivers iron, manufactured in Lower Canada, and used much for horse-shoeing, has a character equal to Swedish, and sells about the same price. CARRIAGE-MAKERS. A few required in the towns. Wages, £3 to £3, 10s. a- month with board, 4s. to 5s. a-day without board. WHEEL-WRIGHTS. Usually paid by the piece, £l, 4s. a set of four wheels. Average hands can make two set a-week, and some good hands more. TINSMITHS. Wages, 20s. to 35s. a-week with board ; average good hands 30a. a-week with board. This trade is carried on in the westtrn AVAGFS AND STATE OF TRADES. 141) parts of Canada chiefly by means of barter. Travellinrf wajr- goiis are kept by master tradesmen, and sent loaded with wares throupfh the country, which are bartered for furs, feathers, ike. The furs are sold in the New York or Montreal market for shipment to England. A great many of ingenious American machines are used in working the tin, such as for turning locks, putting tire together, grooving, preparing tire for wire and putting it in, turning out and setting down bottoms, all which much abridges labour. The description of tin known as IC is chiefly used, and IX to a limited extent. The former costs about from 48s. to 60s. a box ; the latter about 56s. Pint measures of common tin are sold at 6d., and iiuarts at lOd. BAKERS. Although in the country parts people usually bake their own bread, in the towns a considerable quantity of bakers' loaves and fancy bread are used, and the trade is one which prospers well. Not so much capital is thought requisite to begin business as in Britain, many in this country just pur- chasing a barrel or two of flour as required. In some of the towns, as Toronto, an assize regulates the price of bread, and 8s., I am informed, is allowed for baking a barrel of flour con- taining 196 lb. The Government contract for the troops at London in 1 843 bound the baker to give equal weight of bread for weight of flour, the Government supplying the flour. The public bakers usually take more profit than this. When flour sells at I4s. to 18s. per barrel of 1961b., the 41b. loaf sells in the shops in towns from 4d. to 6d. sterling. Journeymen receive 40s. to 48s. a-month with board. The hours of labour are equally long, and as unseasonable, as in Britain. The average price of a barrel of flour in Canada is stated to be 18s. Gd., and the cost of transport from the Welland Canal, between Lakes On- tario and Erie, which may be said to form the centre of pro- duction, is estimated at I4s. 6d. to any part of Britain, mak- ing the cost of Canada flour in Britain, exclusive of duty, 33s. J- t It . m 144 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. The completion of the great canals of Canada, which will pro- hably he this season, is expected to make a reduction of 2s. 6d. on the cost of transport. SHOEMAKEUS. Notwithstanding a considerable quantity of cheap shoes im- ported from the United States, shoemaking is a prosperous trade in most parts of Canada. Journeymen are, as in this country, paid hy the piece. Bootmakers have 10s, a pair for tht- best, 8s. for common, and 6s. for ^ pegged' boots. For men's dress shoes 4s. 2d. is paid, and for ladies' dress do. 2s. to 2s. Cd. (rood hands do not usually experience much difficulty in pro- curing employment. The earnings of journeymen may be said to range from 24s. to 48a. a-week. Masters' prices are 24s. to 28.S. for best Wellington boots, and for coarse boots, 14s. t; J6s. ; gentlemen's dress shoes, 10s. to lis.; ladies' walkina; shoes, 10s, ; children's shoes, 4s. to 6s. Leather, which is not so good as in Britain, owing to less care and time being be- stowed in the preparation, sells usually as follows : — Sole leather, Is. per lb. ; calf uppers, 4s. per lb. ; kip uppers, 3s. per lb, TAILORS. First-rate workmen may not iind much difficulty in procur- ing employment, but of inferior hands I would say that Ca- nada is fully stocked. Journeymen's wages are 19s, for mak- ing a dress-coat, trousers 4s., vest 4s. The work that is paid thus is of the best description, and quite as good as is required in the first towns in Britain. The master tradesmen's prices are generally 24s. to 28s. for making a dress-coat, and 6s. tor trousers, and the same for vest. Clothes, however, by second and third class tradesmen, are much cheaper ; and both women and inferior class tradesmen make a good deal for the shops at very low rates ; and much of this description of work is sold in Canada. PRINTERS. The demand for printers in Canada has usually been very WAGES AND STATE OF TR\DES. 1^5 limited, the trade being chiefly confined to newspaper and job work. Wages vary from 288 to 40s. a-week. The news- papers, generally speaking, with exceptions in the chief towns, do not appear to meet with encouragement sufficient to cause either good workmanship, or much editorial care being em- l)loyed upon them. The sheet is usually smaller than the ordi- nary sized papers in Britain, the paper inferior, and a conside- rable portion is occupied with advertisements, and the greater number of these ^ standing' ones — say for two, three, six months, or longer, the advertisers having contracted for ' a square.' a half, or a whole column at so much a-year. Advertisements of from six to ten lines are charged from about 2s. to 3s. for a first insertion, and for each subsequent insertion the charge is only one-fourth of these rates, namely from 6d. to 9d. Longer iidvertisements are charged 3|d. a line for first insertion, and |d. euch subsequent one. There are no stamp-duty upon adver- tisements, no duty upon paper, and no stamp, nor any sort of restriction whatever upon the publicationof newspapers. Papers sent through the Post-Office were until lately charged Id. each, payable by the printer before they could be forwarded; now only ^d. is charged upon each to the party receiving it. The price of weekly newspapers in Canada is about 12s. a-year; and of the most respectable twice-a-week papers from 18s. to 20s. In Toronto and Montreal some very good work is per- formed, consisting of jobbing, periodicals, pamphlets, and a book occasionally. The progress of the press in the colony, liisplaying, in some measure, both cause and effect of the gene- ral condition of the country, is at present unusually active and encouraging, Within the last twelve months, besides several newspapers throughout the province, both an agricultural and a n edical periodical have been commenced at Montreal, and a medical and philosophical journal has been proposed to be established at Toronto— the Montreal publications monthly, and the other quarterly. Paper for the pui-poses of printing is chiefly manufactured in Canada, and a ream of the ordinary news- paper size and quality costs from about 16s. to 24s. A Print- I I. C':-„ ■ "I i ■ 14G APPENDIX TO THK LETTKRS. iriif press of the devscription called Imperial, siniiU, No. 1, oV United States make, can be purchased for from £40 to £G(l. The description or ' fount' of type called ^ Long Primer,' ot United States manufacture, costs about Is. 7d. per Ih. Wooden hlock letters for posting hills are made by machinery within the colony. Mr Ruthven, son of Hie ingenious and well known printing-p. .as maker of Edinburgh, recently commenced tlu- manufacture of these types in Canada, at the spirited and rapidly-growing town of Hamilton. I have seen several neat sjjecimens of the letters ; and their manufacture by machinery is the first attempt of the kind, I am informed, in the colony. Seamen. The trade upon the great lakes bei^^*]; rapidly on the increase, good seamen are commonly in dema, I, and have fair prospects if sober and .ihgent. Wages ot men are £3, 4s. to £'i, 12!«'., a-month; mates, £4 to £5, 12s. ; and masters, .£10 to £12 a- month. Lads able to cook for six or eight men have frequently from £J, 12s. to £2 a-month. Seamen upon the American lakes are both better treated and better fed than either our coasting or foreign-going vessels at home ; but in noting the wages, it is to be mentioned, that there is no sailing during winter, the lakes during that season being usually frozen. The period during which navigation is carried on, may be stated to be seven to seven-and-a-half months, namely, from the be- ginning of April or May, according as the ice clears away, till the end of October, or it may be somewhat later. About two- thirds of the seamen on these lakes are supplied from amonti the hardy west Highlanders, chiefly Argyleshire fishermen. They go to the lakes during summer, and work usually upon a farm in the winter season. The industrious and sober have all greatly bettered their circumstances, and many who came out with no money a few years ago are in possession of good farms. The vessels upon the lakes are chiefly owned by mer- chants, and sometimes the captains have a share. WAGES AND STATE OF TRADES. 147 APPRRNTICEfl. Speakinf? generally of apprentices in all trades, they usually in.'t as niueh during their apprenticeship as provides for their support. They most frequently board with their employers, iind have a sulTicient sum allowed for clothing. The ordinary piriods of apprenticeships are from three to five years. FEMALE EMPLOYMENTS. Such descriptions of female employment, as dressmaking, millinery, plain sewing and washing, appear to be well stocked, and the remuneration moderate. Washing is usually charged 2s. a-dozen pieces, and families and others contracting by the month have it for much less. Coloured shirts, full breasted, are made from 9d. to Is. 6d. each, and white ones. Is. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Maid-servants' wages may be calculated as nearly about double what they are in Scotland, and vary from £6 to £15 a-year for common servants. Young girls on first going to service get about 4s. to 8s. a month, and good cooks about .£12, and in cases £\!) a-year. Good Scotch and English servants are much prized, and are generally scarce. FARM-SERVANTS AND LABOURERS. The rate of wages for common labourers is liable to great fluctuations in Canada, depending naturally upon the extent of public works carried on at particular seasons, and the supply of hands in the country. The great number of Irish labourers that have been forced into Canada from the suspended public works of the United States, have not only kept the rate of wages moderate, while the present public works are being car- ried on, but have occasioned much annoyance and inconve- nience from the over-supply both to contractors and quietly dis- posed labourers. The wages varying upon the public works of canals, harbours, and roads, may be quoted to be from Is. b\l. to 3s., generally about 2s., a-day. Farm-servants usually get in the western parts of Canada from 32s. to 48s. a-month, -tt: *'r^T^ UH APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. V. I' y I ;m' 1 *i J jind board; in certain parts of the country, and at certain seasons when the price of produce is low, and hiboururs iioi much in demand, they are to be had at the rate of from 'JOh. to 82h. a-month. Scotch farm-servants command readiest em- ployment, and at the best rate of wages. 1 know many of them who have prospered remarkably well in Canada. One from Forfarshire, who had 12 guineas a-year, and oatmeal and milk, in a ' bothy,' at home, came to Canada in 1041, and now receives in the London district 40s. a-month, and board. Ht' can save, he said, from £16 to £17 a-year, and has all his plans laid out for the disposal of his savings. He intends in five or six years to purchase land for himself; to go upon it in the ' Fair (latter part of Autumn), cut down the sappling timl)er, and chop the trees during winter, and in spring he will hire oxen to ' log' and * clear,' and prepare the ground for crop. And then when he has raised st*aw, &c., from his crops, he will purchase his own pair of oxen and cow, or whatever stock he may require. This Forfarshire ploughman first landed at New York, and worked some time in the United States, but shortly afterwards removed into Canada, which country he likes well. He wears the same kind of clothing . 'is he did in Scotland, and, as far as his knowledge goes, he thinks it about the same price. He gets the best moleskin for trousers and waistcoat that ho could wish for 2s. 6d. to 3s. a-yard. He has better food in (his country, although he would not say but with his brose and * bothy' he was tolerably contented in Scotland. There were some drawbacks to Canada, he thought ; he had less leisure, such as at meal times, and the work he considered more ' fag ging.' He did not relish the men having to work about the cows so much, milking them, and attending to the dairy, put- ting on the fires in the morning, and preparing wood for fuel, which duties, for the most part, he had the notion belonged of right to the women. But, taking all in all, he would not ex- change Canada now for Britain by a great deal. He had now cheering prospects of comfortable independence. Having stated these current rates of wages, it may be as well WAGES AND STATK OK TUADKS. 149 t(i muntion that, in parts of Canada, the workman cannot lU'- pond, in many instancen, upon always receiving reguhirly his wages in money. Barter prevailing to a considerable extent, and ni.)ney comparatively scarcej the master tradesman has fre(iuently not ready cash to pay his men when re(|uired. lUit should clothes, shoes, or the like be wanted by a worknutn, his employer will give him an order for the articles upon the shop- keeper, or the shoemaker, with whom he does business, and the l)ulance of wages in cash is paid as the tradesman can spare it, :ind when otherwise needed by the workman. This state of things is not nearly so prevalent, however, as it was formerly, and, with the improving condition of the country, the system i)f ready money in all transactions is more adopted, and lor all parties, of course, is found to be most convenient and pro- fitable. BOARD AND LODOINci. Boa-d and lodging of a very comfortable description is to be liad in the towns from 8s. to 12s. a-week. It is dilTicult, most frequently impossible, for single men to have a separate room, or jiorlour and bed-room for themselves, and their meals prepared to their order, as in Scotland. This is a great drawback in al- most every part of America to the quiet comfort of those who have been used to the old country plan. Certain families take in boarders, and spread usually one table at stated hours — say seven or eight in the morning for breakfast ; twelve, one, or tw'o for dinner ; and six or seven for tea, or supper, as it is here called. Breakfast commonly consists, at even the most indifferent tables, of fried meat, as steaks, chops, ham and e%^. ic M?'! ^■■1.: RENTS. Rents in Canada, as is generally known, are somewhat hightJi than they are in most places in Britain, because then- boih labour and money bring better returns. One large room, with one or two bed-closets (the kind of accommodation which workmen with small families generally shift with at first), may he had in towns in Canada from 10s, to 12s. a-month, or from about £G to £7, 5s. a-year. For further particulars, see pHge no. PRICES OF PIIOVISIONS. 1 will here quote the prices of provisions in iiie London mar- ket last summer. It may be premised that economical families, who have the means, usually lay in a stock of flour, beef, pork, .Sec, by the barrel or 100 lb, before the wiiUer commences, and ilso their fire-wood, which foresight saves them paying higher prices. A cord of wood, containing 128 cubic feet, sufficient to i.,ake a comfortable daily (ire for a family having to use it in corking, for about the space of a fortnight to three weeks, cost^ in the towns from 5s. to 8s. The pieces or billets of beech, maple, ash, and hickory timber, used fo ■ lUel, are about four feet lonj.^, and from 9 to 18 inches in circumference, and when used for stoves of three feet length or less, these pieces are cut and split to the most convenient size. We have in this couDlry in the |)resent day our prejudices for coal, but wood, by experience, is found to make a cheerful, cleanly, warm, and nuu ii inor*' PRICES or PROVISIONS LANDS, &c. 151 lasting fire than is generally supposed. The following were the prices of provisions in the public market at London, Ca- nada, May 24, 1844— quoted from the 'Inquirer' newspaper of same date : — Wheat, per bushel of 60 lb., 3s. to 3s. 4d. — Barley, per bushel of 48 lb., 2s.— Oats, per bushel of 34 lb., lOd. to Is. — Potatoes, per bushel. Is. Gd.— Hay, per ton, 24s. Cd. — Straw, per loud, 8s. 2d. to 10s. 3d. — Beef, per cwt., 20s. 6d. — Mutton, per cwt.-, 20s. 5d. — Veal, per cwt., 20s. 6d. — Pork, 14s. 3d. to 1()S. 4d. — Ham, per lb., 4d. — Butter, per lb., 7^d. — Eggs, per dozen, 3id. — Maple sugar, per lb., 3^d. — Fowls, per couple, Is. to Is. 3d. — Turkeys, each 2s. to '.jii. 6d.— Geese, each Is. {)(\. to 2s. Id. In the same market, the week ending June 14th, the price of wheat was 3s. 3d. to 3s. Gel. a bushel, and beef IGs. 4d. a cwt. ; butter, which during the previous month was 7h^.j was then selling at 6d. per lb. At Toronto, July 1st, wheat was selling at 2s. lOd. to 3s. .')d. a bushel, and flour 16s. 4d. to 18s. per barrel of 196 lb. Oat- meal, per barrel of 19G lb., 10s. Gd. to lis. 3d. Eggs, 4d. to .h1., and butter 4d. to od. For the prices of groceries, see page 106, and for clothing, p;ige 33. ITvICES OF LANDS AND COST OF CLEARING WILD LAND. Lands in Canada may be purchased either from Govern- ment, incorporated companies, or private individuals. The lands under the control of the Government are classified into Crown Lands, Clergy Reserves, School Reserves, and Indian Reserves, and are scattered over every district ot the colony. The incorporated land companies in Canada are two: the if: ':t,' .V-' I-'"' ];y2 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. British American Land Company, and the Canada Company, The lands possessed by the former are situated in Lower Ca- nada ; and the Canada Company's lands in the upper or western division of the province. This latter company, which was in- corporated in 1826, possesses scattered lands in every district, and almost every township of Upper Canada, besides lar|jfe territories or tracts in the "Wellington and Huron districts, the latter consisting of a million of acres. The lands held by pri- vate individuals for sale are situated in every part of thp colony, and consist of tracts and scattered lots which have been purchased for speculation, or acquired in payment of debts, chiefly by merchants, and lots of from 100 to 1000 acre?; ill the occupation of the proprietors, and partly cultivated. Dividing the description of lands in Canada into the two classe.s of waste or wild lands, and lands partly cultivated or cleareil. some information respecting them is subjoined. '- :■ ■ If: At WILD LANDS. The Crown lands, by an act of the Colonial Legislatiirt . are to be sold at a price to be from time to time fixed by the Governor in Council. The present fixed price fo.v such lands in Upper Canada 'in 8s. currency, or 6s. 7d. sterling per acre. This price does not apply ' to lauds reserved by Government for non- payment of the conditions of settlement on whirh they were granted under a former system now abolished, nor to laii Is called Indian Jiesfrves and Clergy Reserves, which thric classes are, as well m town and village lots, subject in special valuation.' The Government Gazetf^^ publishes ri- specting the Crown iatuU^ whicli are to be had for 8s. cur- rency, that the lots are to be taken at the contents in acrt.- marked in thepu])lic d(tri< merits, without guarantee as to the actual quantity ; that no purchase-money will be received bv instalments, but that the whole, either in money or ^ lanti scrip,' must be paid at the tiiiio of sale. On the payment ot the purchase-money, the purchase^ will receive a receipt wiiicli CROWN LANDS. 163 will entitle him to enter upon the land purchased, and ar- rangements will be made for issuing to him the patent deed without delay. [The ' land scrip' mentioned al)ove is paper issued by the Colonial Government in satisfaction of U. E., or other claims for lands adjusted by this means, and which paper, bearing a certain value attached by Government, and taken as payment for lands, is frequently to be purchased much under the nominal value from the holders for ready cash.] For public convenience, Government agents are appointed in each municipal district, ' with full powers to sell to the first applicant any of the advertised lands, which, by the returns open to public inspection, maybe vacant within the district.' In addition to the Crown lands offered for sale at 6s. 7d. sterling per acre, the Colonial Government have set apart settlements in both Upper and Lower Canada, in which indi- viduals of 21 years of age and upwards, who have never ob- tained a grant of land from Government, may receive a farm lot of 50 acres without purchase, upon certain conditions. The settlements in Lower Canada are upon the Lambton and Ken- nebec Roads, the former leading from the village of St Francis, through Tring, to the townships of Forsythe and Lambton, and the latter being a continuation of the Kennebec Road from Aubert De Lisle to the Province Line. The settlement in Upf>er Canada is upon a road, which commenced opening in IU'2 at the expense of Govemment, through the Crown land from the north-west angle of the township of Garrafraxa, in the Wellington district, to Owen Sound upon Lake Huron. The road which opens up this important new territory termi- nates at Lake Ontario, from which Owen Sound is distant somewhat over a hundred miles. The chief conditions to be ol)served by settlers are — ' They are to make application to the Commissioner of Crown lands, or to the agent on the ground, whenever they shall be ready to become resident on the tract to be granted. — Upon giving a satisfactory account of their means of providing for i^ 154 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. g%^'h h themselves, until a crop can be raised from the ground, thej will receive a ticket from the Commissioner at the Crown Lands' Office, entitling them to locate the land. — Upon appli- cation to the agent in the first place, he will forward a state- ment to the Crown Lands' Office, of the applicant's age, family, and means of settlement, upon which, if approved, authority for location will issue. — Settlers will be required to clear, and place once under crop, one-third of the land located, and to reside on the land until this settlement duty is performed, and after one-third of the grant shall have been cleared and under crop, the settler shall be entitled to bis patent free of expense. The settlement duty is required to be done within four yearsJ from the date of the ticket.' The class of lands known as Clergy Reserves are subject to the disposal of the Commissioner for Crown Lands and hU agents in each district. The amount of these lands to be dis- posed of in any one year in Canada, is limited to one hundred thousand acres, except with the written approbation of one of her Majesty's principal Secretaries of State. The lands are reported upon and valued by inspectors appointed by the Crown Lands' Commissioner, and returns upon oath are made by the inspectors of the extent, nature, and other particulars, including the value of such lands, and upon the returns being approved of by the Governor in Council, ^ the same shall be comnumi- cated to the Commissioner of Crown Lands, and the lands contained in such returns shall be considered open for ,^ale, and the price stated in such returns as confirmed, including the value of improvements, to the first person who shall apply for, and pay for the same.' The sale of Clergy Reserves are subject to the following terms : — ' Two-sixths of the purchase-money to be paid in hand, and the remaining four-sixths in four equal annual instalments, pay- able on the first day of January in each year, with interest, at the rate of six per cent, per annum — the first of the instalments to fall due, and be payable, on the first day of January next en- suing after any such sale.' 1* LANDS OF INCORPORATED COMPANIES. 155 The lands of the British American Land Company in Ca- nada are situated in a district of country in Lower Canada, known ai^ the Eastern Townships, and amount to about 700,000 acres. The price of the new or wild land of this Company, ac- cording to their published papers, is 6s. to 8s., and near towns 12s. an acre. Their terms are one-fifth of the price at entry, and the rest in six annual instalments with interest. The Eastern Townships are situated inland, on the south side of the River St Lawrence, between Quebec and Montreal. Sher- brooke, the principal town, is 83 miles distant from Fort St Francis on the St Lawrence, 90 miles above Quebec. The Company have a Commissioner at Sherbrooke, and agents at Quebec, Montreal, St Francis, and other places. The Canada Company, in addition to the formerly usual modes of selling for payments in ready money and by instalments, have lately adopted a new system in the disposal of their lands, which appears to be highly advantageous to a numerous class, who may not have means to acquire lands by immediate pur- chase. The enterprising spirit, and honourable dealings of this Company, and their kind and liberal treatment towards their settlers, have exercised a material influence in forward- ing the interests of Canada, especially of late years, and in a manner highly gratifying to all who have disinterestedly at heart the welfare of the colony. During my residence in Ca- nada, 1 had many opportunities of becoming acquainted with j)ersons who had dealings with the Company, and 1 heard them invariably spoken of with respect and esteem. In the exercise of their honourable and liberal course, the Canada Company are no doubt in part influenced by, and experience the benefits of, the great maxim now being every day more generally recognised — thatprivate interests and those of the public are inseparably one; so that in forwarding the interests of Canada in the promotion of its colonisation, this Company most efteetually promote their own. In reference to their new system of leasing lands, the fol- lowing passages are extracted from one of the published papers of .1- f Iv ■ i' ^^^ ■ It r-. fl:' i m ilk ]:,6 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. the Company, dated from their oflice, 'Frederick Street, To- ronto, May 1844:— ' The Canada Company have for disposal about one million iand a-half acres of land, mentioned in the printed lists of this date. They consist of lots of from 100 to 200 acres each, scattered throughout the country, and most of them surroundtcJ hy old settlements ; of blocks containing from 1000 to 10,000 acres, situated in the Western district ; and of an extensive and important territory, of 800,000 acres, in the Huron district, situated 90 miles south of Owen Sound, ' The lands are offered on the most liberal terms, and are highly beneficial to the settlers. By this arrangement, the Com- pany dispose of their lands by way of lease, for a term of ten years— no money being required down — and the rents payable 1st February in each year, being less than the interest upon the price. Thus, for example, suppose the purchase-money for 100 acres to be 12s. 6d. per acre, which is £52, 10s., the rent required thereon is £3 — full power being secured to the settler to purchase the land he occupies at any time during the term upon payment of the price stated in the lease. The Com- pany will make a liberal allowance upon the price, according to the period when the settler pays, by anticipation, the amount. and thereby saves himself from further rent. '• These lands, and others not included in the leasing list, are also to be disposed of upon the Company's former plan, viz., for cash down, or by one-fifth cash, and the balance in five equal annual instalments with interest. ' Fn order to afford every assistance to industrious and pro- vident settlers, the Canada Company will receive any sum, no matter how small the amount may be, for which their lessee settlers may not have immediate want, on deposit, allowing interest at the rate of six per cent, per annum for the same ; bur it is clearly understood, that the full amount with interest ac- crued, shall at all times be at the disposal of the settler with- out notice. For this purpose the Company have opened a". £\m CANADA COMPANY S LANDS. lo7 account, which is tcrnicd ' Settlers' Provident or Savings.- Tinnk Account,' thus aifording to the provident settler every facility for accumulating sutlicient money to purchase the freehold of the land which he leases, whenever he chooses to do so, within the terra of ten years ; but should bad harvests, or any unfore- seen misfortunes visit him, he has always the amount deposited, with interest accrued, at his disposal to meet them. 'Every kind of information upon Canada, and directions that can possibly be useful to intending emigrants to Canada, will be readily furnished, free of all charge, by applying personally, or by letter, to the Company's Ofike in England, Canada House, St Helen'? Place, Bishopsgate Street, London. ' The new printed lists of land (which may be seen in every Post-OlTice and store in Canada West), and any particulars, may be obtained, free of charge, upon application, if by letter post paid, to the Company's Office at Goderich, as regards the Huron lands; at Frederick Street, Toronto, as to all other lands and remittances of money.' The remittances of money here mentioned refer to arrange- ments whereby the Company, ' anxious to assist settlers and others desirous of sending monies to their friends, engage to j)lace the amounts in the hands of the parties for whom they are destined, free of all cost and expense, thus saving the "Settlers all care and trouble in the business.' The next sentence is one speaking more plainly and unequi- vocally regarding the colony than any other similar amount of words and figures could possibly do. Well may every one wish that Canada may long so prosper that her colonists can thus have means to prove so forcibly its advantages, and promote so eiFectually its colonisation. '■ The Company last year remitted to the United Kingdom and Germany nearly £3000 in 329 sums, averaging about £.') each : by this means, and during the last four months, they ■ > if. I !.;•■ »... 6' :,: ■■ ', '.' l?^^ iil •'■ .1 PI f ■ 158 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. have already sent home a similar amount.' The transactions of the last year [1043] alluded to, consisted in detail of £1438 3 7 in 185 Remittances to Ireland, 1076 12 2 in 85 do. to England and Wales, 441 14 5 in 58 do. to Scotland, 35 3 2 in 1 do. to Germany, £2990 13 4 in 329 Remittances. IMPROVED FARMS. It is, as will be conceived, difficult to state the precise prices at which improved farms can be purchased, the locality, amount of improvements, and particular circumstances of persons wish- ing to sell, having all to be taken into account. It may be generally remarked, however, that such farms, say usually about 200 acres, with 40 acres, or less or more, under cultiva- tion, and having dwelling house, farm buildings, and sometimes implements and stock, are frequently to be bought under real va- lue. The number of farms in the market of this description arises, in many cases, from the possessor wishing to purchase a large extent of wild or waste land for the purpose of sharing such with his grown-up family. In the greater number of instauces, perhaps, farms partly cultivated are to be had for about £3, 10s. to £5 an acre. Good bargains are frequently to be had when purchasers are able to pay ready money. An instance I am able to mention of an Englishman who arrived in the London district in the spring of 1843, and who purchased a farm of 100 acres, one half cleared, with a dwelling house upon it, though not very good, a frame barn, and also some stock, for £350 currency, or about £286 sterling, ready money. This farm is about four or five miles from the town of London, and was considered to be a cheap purchase. Another instance I know of is of a farm about the same distance from the town, and the same size as the above, but understood to possess a better soil, IMPROVKD FARMS. i:).o I 1 1 r 1 Jtions having had an offer of a purchaser for £G00 currency, or £-lV:i .sterling, and the bargain, though not concluded when I heard of it, was expected to be. Like the other farm purchased for £350 currency, this one had also 50 acres cleared, with a frame bam and dwelling house, though the latter of a rather poor de- scription. There are mostly always advertisements of farms for sale to be found in the various newspapers throughout the country, and many bargains are had in this way ; but it is ever a great drawback that, with few exceptions, thf price is not stated. The high charge of postages in Canada, and the delay which must take place before replies to communications are received, naturally frequently operate as barriers in the business of effecting sales, which might not have been the case had the important item of rrice been mentioned along with other particulars of the advertisement. For the purpose of presenting a specimen of an advertisement of a farm in Canada, and the better to illustrate the description and price of farms to be had, I would willingly have selected any property so offered for sale within our district of London ; but on account of prices being omitted, I select one suitable in this respect acciden- tally met with, referring to a different part of the province, and which is extracted from the columns of the ' British Colonist newspaper, published at Toronto. ' Important to Small Ca- pitalists' is the heading of the advertisement— ' For Sale, on very advantageous terms, a most desirable Property, in the Township of Haldimand, District of Newcastle, C. W. It is delightfully situated, having a beautiful view of Lake Ontario. A Saw and Grist Mill adjoins the Property, and being adjacent to Grafton and Cobourg, a good market is secured for all kinds of Produce. The Farm consists of 1 00 Acres, 80 of which are cleared and under cultivation ; the other portion consists of u splendid Maple Bush, which, for its productive qualities, is not to be excelled in any part of Canada. There is a very excellent Frame-built Cottage on the Premises, consisting of two Bed- rooms, Parlour, Kitchen, and Store-room ; also another larger . 'a- ■•■ ■' II ',' ," y ^ •■ " i«o APPEXDIX TO THE LETTERS'. Frame Dwelling, 42 by 32, in a atiito of completion ; a good Frame Barn, Stable, ami ()ut-hoii.seH; and a fine Orchard ot Young Trees. It is worthy the attention of anv re.spectablf person, and the Land U of the fir8t quality — the present Pro- prietor leaving in consequence of its interference with his Pro- fession. Price £400 [provincial currency, being £,*J2n ster- ling.] The payment to suit the Purchaser, and immediate p()><- session may be had. For further particulars, inquire of l)r Sa- bine, Chemist and Druggist, 54 Yonge Street. — Toronto, Au- gust 20, 1«43.' Wild or waste lands near towns frequently bring a ])rice ap- parently disproportionate to their value, compared with the low price of cleared farms. This is chiefly owing to the tim- ber in such situations being valuable for fuel, A lot of 1.50 acres of wood land, within two and a-half miles of London, was lately sold for £500 currency, or about £411 sterling, jind shortly afterwards easily resold for the same amount. The least quantity of farm land sold by Government is 50 acres ; and the least quantity disposed of by the Canada Company is 100 acres. The usual size of farms in Canada is 200 acres ; 100 acres, however, is considered a fair size for persons of mode- rate means. With respect to the important matter of ascer- taining the validity of titles in cases of purchases from privat'> individuals, it may be mentioned that each county has a Re- gister-Office in which titles to lands are recorded. The charge for a search is Is. 6d. CLEARING WILD LAND. The * clearing' of wild land is usually understood as cutting down and removing all the trees to the two or three feet only of the * stumps' of the larger trees left standing, and fencing, and leaving the field ready for crop. These stumps are usually from 10 feet to 20 feet apart, and do not impede, so much as is generally supposed, the operations of ploughing or harrowing. CLKARIN'G WILD LAND. nil The cost of clearing thus may bu stated to be from £2^ loa, to i!3, 5m. per acre. An ecoiiomic.il plan, from theexperiiMice of nn early and suc- cessful colonist, may he here stated. Thesettler of limited means having got upon his land about the middle of May, and erected a temporary summer dwelling, as described at page 1(J2, may se- lect a space of two acres or so near his hoii^e, and a man and hoy proceeding to clear in a rough manner may have the lot ready to plant potatoes in about three weeks. The trees are felled, out into lengths, the branches chopped olT, and the light brush- wood cut, and then the whole collected, along with fallen leaves, into heaps, and burned. The logs, if not burned, are iillowed to lie for the present. Good land is found to be free and easy like rich garden ground, and with only a hoe the set- tler may commence planting the plot with potatoes. By this time, say that the season is advanced to the middle of June, or even a little further on, another acre may be similarly cleared, and planted with turnips. Towards the end of July or so, the winter house may engage attention, so that it may be ready by the end uf September, or beginning of October. After the house !;< finished, or while engaged on it, the potatoes and turnips will require to be taken up, an as thr settler has as yet no cellar, the roots may be pre^erx in bings upon the ground. After this has '-en done, the wi. le of th. three acres, from which a first croj rias been had, may be more fully cleared by collect- ing the scattered logs together, an i burning them up. The ashes may either be preserved for the purpose of being manu- factured into the useful asjhes of commerce, or they may be scattered over the land further to fertilise it. The land may- then he raked, and all sown in wheat ; theu«iual quantity sown at this season being one bushel to the acre. After the seed is sown, the rake, "^ ng, or hoe, ) nay he employed. It will now be about the end ol (ictober, and th^ settler may turn his atten- tion to more e\>('vii-'\ve clearing operations through the winter. The spring following, spring wheat may be planted, besides IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I ■» Hi 12.2 2.0 1.8 1.25 ||U 1.6 ^ ^ 6" ► m •v^ A? # ^,> .^ ^>> ^J^ /A ;)iiic Sdaices Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ .^v ^\ [v C> if o PI f 1 162 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. potatoes, oats, pease, turnips, and Indian corn or maize, a id also some garden vegetables. The settler having probably now procured cattle, say a cow aad a yoke of oxen, he may look forward with prospects of being able sufficiently to provide for them, and also to add to his own comforts* I . • PRICES OF LIVE STOCK, FARM BUILDINGS, AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS, AND HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE. i1 m LIVE STOCK. The price of a good yoke of oxen may be quoted to be from £10 to jei2 sterling. Milch cows, £2, 15s. to £4. Farm horses, £8 to £10. Sheep, 4s. to IGs. Young breeding sow, 8s. to 12s. FARM BUILDINGS. A comfortable log dwelling house, 16 feet by 24 feet, two floors with shingled roof, is estimated at about from £12 to £14 ; a frame house, 24 feet by 40 feet, about £50 ; a log barn, 24 feet by 40 feet, about £10 ; a frame bam, same dimensions, about £20. The description of dwelling erected by many of the hardy settlers with small means is very simple, and costs little. Having selected land in the commencement of summer, and anxious to get as much done with the least loss of time, pitch- ing their tent for the summer months in the woods gives them little thought. A number of small round logs, or poles, of beech, maple, or elm, 8 inches to 1 foot diameter, are cut in lengths of about 16 feet, and selecting a site 16 feet square, these light logs or poles are laid one upon another, and knotched together with PRICES OF IMPLEMENTS AND FURNITURE. 163 the axe at the corners of the square, the sides of the shanty are thus reared. Lighter poles are then laid across the whole to form a roof, and the strong bark striped from the stately elm trees, cover these poles again. An opening for a door having been left in building, a thick mat or quilt is hung over the entrance, and completes this description of forest hut. A man and boy will erect a dwelling of this sort in three or four days, or, with three or four active neighbours, the whole can be done in a day ; and the settler having previously purchased a small stock of provisions, pork, flour, salt, milk, and whatever else he may be enabled to purchase, commences the work of chopping, and burning, and preparing the ground roughly for some little crop ; and before winter approaches, he has time to turn his attention to have a more substantial dwelling erected. *^:' m. ■ AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. Ploughs may be quoted from £1, 10s. to £3, 5s. ; and a pair of drags or small harrows, £l, 5s. to £l, 10s. ; an ox-sledge, £2, and a four-wheeled w^aggon for a pair of horses, £12 to £20 ; carts for single horses, which are, however, little used in Ca- nada, may be had for £2 ; double harness, £6 to £6 ; common saddle and bridle, £3 ; thrashing machines, about from £12 to to £26, fixed or portable ; winnowing or fanning machines, £5. HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE. The following are specimens of prices of the description of furniture suited to the means of the working tradesman or small farmer : — Common deal table, 8s. to 12s. ; turned and painted chairs, 3s. to 4s. ; French bed-stead of cherry wood, from 23s. to 30s. ; feathers for bedding, Is. 3d. to Is. 6d. per lb. ; chest of black walnut drawers, £2, 15s. ; cast-iron stove, from £2, 10s. to £4 ; cooking stove, £5 to £8. Furniture of the best descrip- tion, made of mahogany, and also of the native woods, black 1 'J ' 1 . ■') Wi APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. walnut, maple, and cherry, are to be had of superior design and workmanship in almost every neighbourhood, and at rea- sonable prices. 4 «# ft'' > » i>»i I PROFITS OF TILLAGE AND GRAZING. The Colonial Land and Emigration Commissioners trans- mitted to the authorities of the British provinces in North America, a series of questions, embracing a variety of im- portant points, to which, through the assistance of Government officers, public bodies, and private iiidividuals, the colonial authorities returned answers. This information, with other useful matter, the Government Commissioners published in 1842. To question 16, page 20 — ' Are there parts in which grazing is chiefly used? and if so, name the districts, and the advantages for that pursuit ?' And to question 17 — ' What are the comparative gains of grazing and tillage ?' The following, in substance, were the answers received from Canada, as of- ficially published : — ' Mr Widder, one of the Commissioners of the Canada Com- pany [resident at Toronto, Canada], has furnished the following statements ; the first, with reference to tillage, he states he pro- cured from a very intelligent and respectable yeoman, settled in the London district : — ' Cost of clearing 10 acres of heavy timbered land, in the usual Canadian fashion, with an estimate of the crops to be produced therefrom during the first three years after clearing. [The rates are understood to be stated in colonial currency, which roughly is reduced to sterling by deducting a fifth, or, to perform the operation exactly, by multiplying by 60, and dividing by 73.] PROFITS OF FARMING IN CANADA. 16^ First Year. Chopping, clearing, and fencing 10 acres, with a sub- stantial fence, 7 rails and riders, .it least 8 feet high, so as to leave it fit for the drag, and sowing, at £4 per acre, . . . Seed, IJ bush, wheat to the acre, say 15 bush, at 5s., Sowing and dragging at 53. per acre, Jfarvesting at 7s. 6d. per acre, The value of the straw tailing, wheat hulls, &c. on the farm, are supposed to be equal to the thrash- ing and cartage to the barn, . . Cr. by 20 bushels wheat per acre--200 bushels at 3s. 9d., . • • • Second Year. To timothy and clover seed, at 2s. 6d. per acre, Mowing and taking off hay, at 7s. 6d. per acre, Cr. by IJton per acre of hay, at 6 dollars per ton. Dr. £ s, d. Cr. £ s. 40 3 15 2 10 3 15 37 10 15 3 15 22 10 Third Year. To mowing and taking off the hay, at 7s. 6d. per acre, 3 15 Cr. by 1^ ton hay per acre, at 6 dollars per ton, 22 10 Balance, . . 23 15 £82 10 82 10 Cr. by balance brought down, £23 15 ' In this case the value of the after-grass is not taken into consideration, although it is of great value to the farmer, it being the object of this statement to make every allowance for extra expensesj and as it might possibly be thought that the prices of labour were stated at too low a rate, the value of the after-grass is thrown into the scale to compensate for any de- ficiency in the statement of expenses. ' It will be observed, that in this statement no mention is made of tlie profit to be derived from the feeding of cattle ; this is left out purposely, in order to show that the actual produce ^^^^Ka <« ^^^HI \1J PWkfi; 'M. urif^mf -'* :1( r^lB- ■••1 pi;: 'i 1 *S^^'' :'ri iri SMa" •■; M^^k ■: S WW •1 IR' '^iS w m ' ' «l£f' i ^S' I' J ■'<■ ;?:? JG6 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS, in wheat and hay, taking it under every common disadvantage, would, in three years, pay for the clearing, &c. * It also appears that the clearing of wild land, and thus forming what is called in this province a fallow for wheat, is not more expensive than for preparing a fallow for wheat in the old country. ' The farmer who furnished the data upon, which this state- ment is made, went into the different items, and satisfactoi'ily proved that three or four ploughings, marling, chalking, or both, manuring and otherwise preparing an acre of land in England so as to make a good summer fallow of it, and ensure a profitable crop of wheat, was, without taking rent, poor rates, and taxes into consideration, fully equal to the price of clear- ing (not taking into account the fencing) an acre of land in Canada. ' In both instances the crop is nearly the same ; if any dif- ference, the advantage is in favour of Canada, as the average of the wheat crop throughout Canada is considerably greater than the average of the wheat crop in England ; and, although in Canada the price is much less for the produce, yet there is neither rent, rates, nor taxes to pay. ' It must be borne in mind, in making a comparison between Canada and Britain, that, in the case of the latter, a fallow Is prepared for the crop, or at most the crop and the succeeding one, while in Canada, when once an acre of land is cleared, it ranks in the farmer's lists of assets for ever at the value of its cost in clearing, as it is in fact so much reclaimed from the forest, which for eight or ten years at least will require scarcely any expense in the way of manure or fencing. * The preceding account shows that the farmer would have 10 acres of cleared land, substantially fenced, the fence of which will last without repair from 12 to 15 years, and with repair, for 20 years at least ; and it must also be borne in mind, that in case the farmer does the labour with his oini hands and the assistance of his fatmly^ the whole amount of the tage, L thus at, is jat in state- 3tovily ng, or ind in ensure r rates, f clear- land in tny dif- iverage greater Ithough there is etween allow is ceeding cleared, vralue of om the scarcely lid have fence of ind with )orne in lis oini rit of the PROFITS OF STOCK FARMS. 1C7 debit side, with the exception of the cost of seed, is swept off, leaving the clear profit £77, 10s. ; and, at the end of the time before mentioned, the land is actually better than it was when it was first cleared, and every year afterwards it goes on im- proving until the stumps rot out, when it should he gradually levelled, and then it will be advisable to adopt the usual course of good English farming. * As to profits upon grazing ^ they are very considerable. The demands for cattle for the use of the colony cannot be supplied, except by importation from the United States, where consider- able numbers of sheep are raised for the wool. In the Huron tract, and Wilmot [district of Wellington, east of the Huron tract], the pasture afforded to cattle in the woods is so excel- lent that, without any assistance, they get remarkably fat ard fit for slaying. In Wilmot, the Huron, and Waterloo [another township of Wellington] , the number of sheep is much on the increase, and large flocks are seen. * PROFITS UPON GRAZING. * From the statement of a respectable and intelligent indivi- dual, residing in Zorra [district of Brock], whose veracity I have no reason for doubting, the value of stock in that town- ship is as follows : — < Sheep (store), after shearing, 10s. a-piece. ' Working cattle, per yoke, 60 to 60 dollars. ' Year old hogs, 12s. 6d. to 15s. each. ' Horses, from £30 to £40 the span (the pair). *■ Cows, 16 to 20 dollars each. *• It appears that stock farms are much more profitable than merely grain farms, on account of the great increase in the value of cattle in the first three or four years. The following is a fair statement of what may be done "fith them : — * In the fall of the year ox calves', calved in the spring, may be purchased for 20s. currency per head, generally at some- ^m w '1 1 ffi. i "^TJ '■ li 'I <*!!&■/ t\ >•' ''fc> •) [ ; ' i'™^ '1 y'*'^' ■if ^' '-'ISc'' $ ! I 168 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. thing less. The next autumn, when two years and a-half old, they are worth 80s. each ; and the spring following are fit to break in, and then are worth £5 each or £10 per yoke. The stock farmer should not keep them longer, as they will not con- tinue to increase in the same proportion. Heifer calves are equally profitable to keep. ' The western parts of Upper Canada, on account of the win- ters there being shorter and milder, would no doubt answer far better for rearing stock of all kinds than the eastern districts.' ^''^ lished by nieann of lockage, a steamboat plys between the town and the village of Dunville, near the mouth of the river, two or three times a-week. r ! 1 |:i = THE HURON DISTUICT. The Huron district, situated directly north of the district of London, and stretching along part of the south-eastern shore of Lake Huron, contains twenty-one townshijis. The soil of this district, which is rnpidly growing in importance, is believed to be without exception the most fertile in Canada. The greater part consists of a rich black sandy loam, finely timbered with beech, maple, black walnut, and elm. Spring wheat hitherto has chiefly been grown, and the produce of crops varying, ac- cording to seasons and other circumstances, is known to range from 15 to 60 bushels an acre. Goderieh, the district town, is 60 miles north of London, and is situated upon the elevated banks of Lake Huron, at the mouth of the Iliver Maitland. The Canada Company, to whom nearly the whole of the district belongs, have laid out large sums in improving the natural har- bour formed by the mouth of the Maitland ; two piers have been built, and, in 1843, vessels drawing nine feet water had access. A steamboat usually plys between Goderieh and Detroit, in connection with the steamers from BuflFalo, and the Canada ports on Lake Erie, and a mail stage runs twice a-week to and from London, and a stage also runs regularly on another good turnpike road, intersecting the north-east portion of the dis- trict, and passing through the Wellington and Gore districts to the town of Hamilton. The site of Goderieh was quite a wilderness so late as 1830, and in 1040 it contained a popula- tion of 700. The position of the town overlooking Lake Huron .s commanding (perhaps rather much so, as being too exposed in winter), and the scenery upon the River Maitland is very at- THE HURON DISTRICT. 17:{ tractive. A youii'j; nobleman, tlui Baron du Tuyll, has eit'ctrd a residence on the Maitlund opposite Cioderioh, and the well known Dr Dunlop, author of * The Baek-woodsinan', has hero liin finely cultivated farm of (Jairhraid. The town is re|j;ularly laid out, with a market place in the centre, and the Court- house is substantially built of stone. As bein;^ the shipping' port and market of an extensive and fertile country, Godcrich is likely to become an important place. The fishings of Lake Huron may yet employ a great deal of labour arul capital. In the season of UI40 the result of the enterprise of a single indi- vidual in the fisheries, round the Saugin Islands, was COO bar- rels of salmon, herrings, and white fish. The township of Cioderich, exclusive of the town, had a population in 1}I40 of above 1100, in possession of between 5000 and (JOOO acres of land under cultivation, above 140 yoke of oxen, nearly ■'SOO cows, 130 horses, 1000 young cattle, (500 sheep, and 'JliOO pigs. The aggregate means of these colonists on arriving in Canada, according to returns, was estimated at c£lU,700; their means, on goingupon theirlands, at £19,400 ; and, in 1 lUO, the value of their stock and improvements amounted to £45,200. Of the population who have shown such progre:JS in prosperity, ll;{ of the families were destitute of means before they went on land ; 17 families had an amount of means under £10, and 4(5 families had, on the average, means under £50. The settle- ment of the Huron district was commenced by the Canada Company in 1820. Among the rising villages of the district is one named Stratford, situated on the banks of the River Avon. This village is situated at a point where four townships meet —those of North and South Easthope, Ellice, and Downie ; and the main road leading irom Goderich, through Wilmot, Waterloo, and Dundas, to Hamilton, passes through it. Al- though -an years ago all was waste forest here, there are now well-finished houses, a church, two inns, a Hour and saw mill, a brewery, tannery, and numerous mechanics, and around are well cultivpted farms. In the surrounding townships, besides pi M Ul^^ il? "s' am- iwr" h '. ' III i V 174 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. the British settlers, who are the most numerous, there are many illustrious and prosperous Dutch, possessing well im- proved farms, stocked with sheep, cows, &c. The village of St Marys, township of Blanchard, about 18 miles from the town of London, is a settlement which, al- though newly sprung up, having only commenced in 1840, is now considerably advanced, and likely to become a very thriv- ing place. It is situated very agreeably upon the north branch of the River Thames ; the soil is of the best description, and finely timbered along the undulating banks. There is abundance of limestone, suitable fur building, upon the site of the village, and flour and saw mills of the stone are erected, and an inn, shops, and other buildings. The settlers around St Marys are chiefly Scotch. The statistics of the Huron district for 1843 were as fol- lows : — Population — Males, 4994 ; females, 4184; making a total of 9178 ; of these 3200 belong to the Church of England, 2400 to the Church of Scotland, 1000 to the Church of Rome, Seceders from the Church of Scotland and other Presbyterians 800, Methodists 500, Baptists 200. The amount of land oc- cupied by this population was above 240,000 acres, nearly 25,000 acres of which was under cultivation. They possessed, besides the above, 9600 neat cattle (about 3000 of which were cows), and about 700 horses, above 5000 sheep, and 6500 hogs. Among the products of 1843 were 65,500 bushels of wheat, 54,000 bushels of oats, 7700 bushels barley, 12,700 bushels of pease, and 117,900 bushels of potatoes. The quantity of maple sugar produced amounted to 58,300 pounds, the wool to 10,100 pounds, pnd the domestic fabrics manufactured to 10,900 yds. The average price of land in this district is about 12s. an acre ; and settlers, not only from Britain, but numbers almost from every part of Canada are attracted to it, more especially since the new system of leasing the lands has been adopted. NEW NORTHERN TERRITORY. ir.'i ■■-■r- ',1 NEW NOKTHERN TERRITORY. Directly north of the great Huron Tract, and stretchinj;^ along the eastern shore of Lake Huron, until hounded on the north by Owen Sound, and other parts of the south shore of the great Georgian Bay, and on the east bounded by the new districts of Simcoe and Wellington is situate an extensive territory, to which considerable attention has recently been di- rected in Canada. The new government setilement upon the road opened from G arrafraxa to Owen Sound, which is mentioned at page 153, as being laid out in farm lots of 60 acres, for the pur- pose of free grants to settlers passes along the eastern boun- dary of this new and important territory. Two enterprising mer- chants, who, for these number of years, have been honourably connected with the interests of Canada, are believed to have lately, in the course of one of their business journeys, visited this territory, and the interesting account which appeared re- garding it during the early part of the present year, in the columns of the British Colonist newspaper, published at To- ronto (Hugh Scobie, Esq., Editor), is supposed to have been chiefly derived from the information of those gentlemen. The Governor-General, Sir Charles Metcalfe, whose atten- tion, it is well known, is earnestly directed towards improving the resources of Canada by means of good roads, is believed to be favourable to a plan of judiciously opening up and settling this part of the country in such a manner as will most benefit the home population emigrating to Canada, and improve the gene- ral prosperity of the colony. Besides the road from Garra- fraxa, other roads, having their commencement at Lake Ontario, are proposed in various directions to intersect the extensive tract, which is stated to consist of two millions of acres. A ^i' W '' mi ') it $ Bjs ,..tl 1' ^■' 1^ '^ m i'1 I'l ■^ '^ u 'ii !6> ,1 Mi W ':?! M i- '-'fc! ■■'ftti; »i, •'! .i;;-'i I?:. M':^ ■I ■«!. ^; ■•■■ i' .', .•■::■'• i t 170 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. great part of this territory, as may be seen by the map, is not farther north than the well known Bay of Quinte, where some of the best wheat in Canada is raised, and Owen Sound, in the Great Georgian Bay of Lake Huron, is described as a magnificent inlet. From this inlet, and another, 60 or 80 miles north of Goderich, known as the Saugin, the distance from Toronto and Hamilton is estimated to be from 105 to 115 miles. The Sangin, which promises to uecome an important harbour of Lake Huron, is thus described in the report of a Surveyor examining this part of the country:— * In viewing the mouth of the Saugin, I think it the most beautiful part of all I have yet seen. There is a small island about three quarters of a mile from shore, in front of the mouth, which serves as a natural breakwater, affording safety to fish- ing vessels and others, which are often there, and take protec- tion under the lee of the island, veering round as the wind changes. — Immediately on the bar, in the mouth of the river, the current is rather heavy to admit vessels without a hard pressing wind. After passing these rapids, vessels of heavy burden might sail up to the distance of twenty miles, and wide enough to admit the passing of three steam- vessels.' * The distance from the mouth to the Owen Sound road is about thirty miles; but to follow the river it may be 100 miles, as the river forms a great bend. I came down the river from the Owen Sound road on a raft of dry cedar, and had often to renew the raft, as I could not haul it over the several jambs of drift timber that I met with. After passing the junction of the several Saugins, about seven miles below the Owen Sound road, I met with but few other obstacles, as the river was deep and wide enough for steamboats. After passing the junction, we bore off in a south-east direction for, say forty miles, and after passing the Great Bend, which is about half way, being near the Burwell line, we then sailed north to within about twenty miles of the mouth, when the river then took a westerly course to the lake,* f (■■ WESTERN DISTRICT. 177 Respecting the vast tract of land in this quarter, the report in the * Colonist' proposes, that this public (and at present waste) territory should be formed into a public-road fund for the use of the whole province. A plan of this nature, the same authority mentions, is intended to be submitted to the Provincial Parliament during next session. ' But even if no general system like this be adopted,' ob- serves the Colonist, ' we have no doubt that part of the large tractof land lying on Lake Huron will be applied at least to the openinp- up of that vast country itself. It will assuredly prove one of the greatest wheat-fields in Upper Canada, and we venture to say, that the Huron tract and this new territory will, within 15 or 20 years, send as much produce through the Welland Canal, as now passes it, of surplus produce grown on the whole Canadian side of Lake Erie. The lands of this new territory are now lying as valueless as so many acres of Lake Huron, while, if opened up by plank roads, every acre would be made immediately marketable, and preferred to any part of the pro- vince. The country is described as most beautifully rolling, and finely watered with springs, which the winter never freezes.' THE WESTERN DISTRICT. The Western District, lying to the south and west of the districts of Huron and London, comprises the extreme south- western portion of Canada, and also of British America. Bordering, too, for a stretch of between one and two hundred miles along the shores of Lake Erie, the Detroit River, Lake St Clair, the River St Clair, and the most southern part of Lake Huron, this large district possesses a climate, compared with 178 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. m'^^ f'm m-'') i ¥ 1' 1 it $ ^< ■,il 1 f » P^ other parts of Canada and British America, peculiarly mild and equable. Every description of fruit grown in Canada is produced here in fuller perfection ; and in the older and better inhabited settlements along the banks of the Detroit River, where are situated the towns of Amhevstburgh and Sandwich, and along the River Thames towards Chatham, the country is remarkable for numbers of luxuriant orchards, producing some of the finest apples known in North America ; also pears, peaches, plums, cherries, and, in instances, several varieties of grapes of good ordinary size and flavour. Abun- dance of melons are produced, excellent in quality ; and the tomato, a greatly prized vegetable, is much cultivated. But, indeed, generally along the banks of the above-named lakes and rivers, especially along the Detroit River, connecting Lake Erie with Lake St Clair, the country presents, during summer and autumn, the most luxuriant and smiling aspect. The scenery of the Detroit is really charming, and I shall ever preserve the memory of many pleasant days I spent upon its banks. In parts, as in the vicinity of Amherstburghj those banks are slightly elevated ; and, though much worn away by the action of storn\s and other causes, they still display slopes or small rugged steeps, covered to the water's edge with treey, flowers, and shrubs, and the wild vine luxuriantly clus- tering and twining around the trunks, and overtopping and bending into sorts of fanciful bowers the bushy branches of the trees. The broad expanded river here, at the meeting of its deep full waters with Lake Erie, is studded with verdant wooded islands, varied in character and size. This— one of those lovely scenes which so enchanted the early French voyagers, particularly the accomplished Charlevoix, who, ad- dressing the Duchess de Lesdiguieres, describes glowingly this very spot — has now exchanged the unbroken calm and still beauty which surrounded it then, a century and more ago, for the very different, though not to say less pleasing busy life- stirrings of crowding sails and stately steam-vessels passing AMIIERSTBURGII. 170 '■-;iJ I.J ' x\ ly mild anada is der and Detroit rgli and Jhatham, irchards, iinerica ; !, several Abun- and the d. But, led lakes mnecting ts, during ig aspect, i I shall jent upon gh those away by ay slopes dge with ntly clus- jping and anches of leeting of 1 verdant s— one of French who, ad- ingly this and still I ago, for )usy life- s passing and repassing, laden with the riches of this West, and with its eager bustling population. The vicinity of Amherstburgh, however, though presenting most agreeable features, has the great drawback of a large portion of its lands lying low and flat, and instead of lively running streams, most of the waters are dull and rather stag- nant, which circumstance is considered to be unfavourable to health, and this character extends to other situations along the stretch of frontier waters of the Western District. Fair health seems, notwithstanding, with ordinary care, to be pre- served by the inhabitants; and I know many highly respect- able English and Scotch families who have long resided here, and always enjoyed good health. The night and early morn- ing air of spring and autumn, when miasma most abounds, requires to be as much avoided as possible ; and, with light nourishing diet, regularity, and moderate exercise, good health may be considered pretty safe, even in the situations of this western country most exposed to the annoying and debilitating, yet not fatal complaints of fever and ague. Amherstburgh, one of the oldest towns in Upper Canada, a number of French having settled at an early period all along the shores of the Detroit, Lake St Clair, and the lower part of the River Thames (long from that circumstance known by the name of De La Trenche), has, up to the present time, made rather slow progress, having only somewhere about 1500 inhabitants. A considerable portion of the population consists of French, and coloured African people who have escaped from the slave States of America. There is an English Church, Presbyterian Church, and Roman Catholic Chapel in the town ; the coloured African people have also a small church, and the Wesleyan Methodists maintain a preacher here, whose duties extend to the surrounding country. An agreeable fea- ture in this interesting small place, is a public reading-room, where not only British, Canada, and United States newspapers and other periodicals used to be received, but journals printed *" ■ lu ili 4 ' 'V. II 180 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. in French and German, and all of which were read and appre- ciated among the variety of residents. There is also a li- brary attached to the reading-room. Another pleasing social feature of this neighbourhood is the " Western District Lite- rary, Philosophical, and Agricultural Association," estab- lished, in 1842, for the purposes of the mutual instruction of its members, and co-operating in promoting the more general diflFusion of education, and agricultural, and general improve- ment in the district. Its members number the most respec- table and intelligent inhabitants ; and its first transactions, in- cluding the opening discourse of its first president. Major R. Lachlan, published, in pamphlet form, is now before me. A Temperance Society has been some years in operation, and exerts a very beneficial influence. Several vessels belong to the port of Amherstburgh, which are employed in the commerce of the lakes, carrying produce down Lakes Erie and Ontario for Montreal, and bringing up merchandise. The size of vessels are chiefly from 100 to 160 tons burden, usually schooner-rigged, carrying about half-a- dozen hands, and are commonly actively employed in transport- ing cargoes of wheat, flour, salted provisions, and oak-sta\es and tobacco, down the lakes. The vessels proceed through Lake Erie, the Welland Canal, and Lake Ontario, a dis- tance of above 400 miles, to Kingston, at the lower ex- tremity of Lake Ontario, and head of the River St Lawrence, where the cargoes are at present unloaded, and sent the re- maining distance of about 200 miles down the river, or through the canals, in smaller craft, to Montreal. The completion and enlargement of all the great carals of Canada now about to take place, will allow larger vessels to trade, and also to pro- ceed the whole way direct to Montreal, or even to ^^ngland. The tract of country stretching along Lake Erie below Amherstburgh for a distance of about 80 or 90 miles, con- sists of ten townships, extending to Aldborough, the eastern- most township of the London district. Much of the land of II ! CULTIVATION OF HEMP AND TOBACCO. 181 ippre- I a li- social t Lite- estab- tion of general iprove- respec- ms, in- ajor B. ire me. on, and J which produce ging up 3 to 160 ; half-a- ansport- -sta\es through a dis- ver ex- Iwrence, the re- |through ipletion about to pro- band. below !S, con- leastem- land of these townships is situated upon high banks of the lake, and is of the first quality, producing excellent crops both of wheat anr* tobacco. The slaves, who from time to time have effected their escape frcm the southern States of America, se- lected, from an early period, this quarter of Canada as a place of refuge, and are believed to have introduced the culture oi tobacco into these lake-townships, where it is now grown in large quantities, and is estimated equal to the second quality of Virginian tobacco. Eighteen hundred and twenty- one is stated to have been the first year in which it was sent in bulk to Montreal market, yet so rapidly did the trade grow, considering the limited means and numbers of the settlers, in 1827, six years afterwards, there were shipped for the same market 500 hogsheads, weighing each from 1000 to 1100 lbs. The culture is still carried on, though of late years it has apneared to flag owing to the low prices obtained, and the farmers experiencing it to be a crop which greatly impoverishes the soil. Concerning price, it maybe stated, that a quantity of Amherstburgh tobacco, grown in the lake settle- ments, and manufactured into phtg (known as negrohead in this country), was sold, wholesale, in 150 lb. casks, in other parts of Canada, in the winter of 1843, so low as 4d. sterling per lb. In August last (1844) Canada leaf tobacco was selling in Montreal at 2^d. Hemp used many years ago to be cultivated in large quantities in the lake-townships and also on the River Thames. In 1812 the price procured in Canada was £50 sterling per ton. The Western District is believed to be favourable to the culture both of flax and hemp ; and attention is being re-directed to this sometime neglected branch of products. The manufacture of oak-staves for the West India market has engaged a considerable share of attention these many years throughout the Western District, and em- ploys many hands during winter, cutting down the trees and preparing the staves for shipment ; and this trade affords a good deal of employment to the vessels transporting them to King- ■:k m 'i 182 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. 1} 3«V>, .: ston. Standard oak-staves, 1^ inches thick, and 5^ feet long, were purchased on the lliver Thames and Lake Erie shore for from £4 to £G sterling per thousand, and shipped on board the vessel they were £6 to £7, and the vessel's charge for freight to Kingston was £8 to £10 per thousand. The usual rate of freight for merchandise and luggage from Kingston to the head of Lake Erie is 2s. a cwt. ; from Montreal to Kingston, also 2s., — 4s. in all, a distance by land of 700 miles. The time taken, say by steam-propellers, up the St Lawrence, and schooners up the lakes, from 8 to 10 or 12 days. That beautiful native wood, black walnut, is found in large quantities in the Western District, and quantities are shipped down the lakes. A magnificent specimen of this richly ornamental wood of Canada is exhibited in the Museum, at Edinburgh, of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scot- land. The specimen is from the River S*" Clair, and was sent from Canada by Mr Sutherland, a native of Edinburgh, who has a very pleasant residence upon one of the most agreeable spots of that fine river. Proceeding above Amherstburgh, along the River Detroit, through a richly fertile part of country, some of it gently elevated above the river, and dry and well drained, but much of it disagreeably low, level, and wet, the district town of Sandwich is approached, 16 miles distant. It is a neat quiet- looking town, rather smaller than Amherstburgh, with many respectable inhabitants. There is an English Church, Baptist Chapel, and Roman Catholic Chapel, in Sandwich. On ac- count of Sandwich being now not sufficiently central for the increase of population westward, Chatham is spoken of as being made the district seat. Probably soon, however, as some further increase of population takes place, the large district will be divided, and both may then be district seats. Among those enterprising individuals who, in every country, but more especially in new countries such as Canada, are found, in particular neighbourhoods, imparting a stimulus AMHERSTBURGII SANDWICH WINDSOR. 183 ; long, ore for ird the ight to rate of liead of Iso 2s., taken, looners n large shipped , richly eiira, at of Scot- vas sent gh, who greeahle Detroit, t gently ut much town of t quiet- h many Baptist On ac- for the n of as as some district [country , ida, are Istiraulus around them, two brothers, natives of the west of Scotland, may be mentioned in connection with this Western District. Tlie Messrs Dougall, carrying on a large trade as merchants at Amherstburgh and "Windsor, and through the means of branch stores throughout the district, have two or more of the largest class of colonial vessels upon the lakes, which they freight down the country with cargoes of wheat, salted provisions, and other produce, chietly purchased for ready cash in the neigh- bourhood cf their stores, and which produce is either disposed of in Montreal by one of the brothers resident there, o. shipped on their own account to England. The residence of Mr James Dougall, the resident partner in Upper Canada, is situated about two miles above Amherstburgh, upon the banks of the Detroit, and is conspicuous to the traveller as one of the most pleasant seats in this part of Canada. The house is sub- stantially built, principally of brick, with some parts stone, and is two storeys in height. The farm is stocked with the best breeds of Ayrshire cattle, imported direct from Scotland, and both the farm and fine garden are placed under the su- perintendence of Scotchmen brought out for the purpose. Two miles above Sandwich, continuing the route along the river, is the small village of "Windsor, situated immediately opposite the American city Detroit, the capital of the State of Michigan. The river here is about three quarters of a mile wide, and a ferry is maintained by a steamboat which crosses every half hour, encouraging considerable intercourse between the frontier countries. All the three places w^hich we have glanced at along the Canada shore of the River Detroit — Amherstburgh, Sandwich, and "Windsor, are conspicuously associated with particular events in the history of the colony . Amherstburgh, with its military post. Fort Maiden (at present occupied by a detachment of the new corps of Royal Canadian Rifles, charged with the protection of the frontier), was head- quarters for the western parts of Canada, naval and military, at 184 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. i^-liflS the period of the breaking out of the last war with the United States. Here soldiers, militia, and Indians, sailors and ma- rines, were on that occasion hastily collected to endeavour to repel the invasion of the colony. Sandwich is associated with the eventof the American General Hull, having here crossed the Detroit, and invaded Canada, in the summer of 1812, with upwards of 2000 men, and sometime after having issued his proclamation of invasion, and dis- persed part of his forces, retired into his own territory. Gene- ral Brock, in command of the Canada militia and a few regu- lars, and a number of Indians — in all a force of between 1300 and 1400 — crossed the Detroit at the same point soon after- wards, and overawed the garrison of Detroit, under the com- mand of General Hull, into terms of capitulation. Between Sandwich and Amherstburgh, on the small river Canard, the first blood of an unnatural war was shed. Windsor was the scene of a most bloody and unfortunate affray, only so lately as 1038, when a band of men, styling themselves * patriots,' crossed the River Detroit early of a morn- ing in winter, under the delusion that the inhabitants of Ca- nada would receive them warmly, and with open arms join with them to overturn the government of the colony. But those among them who lived to return had reason to regret the rash marauding invasion they made, and to mourn that the * arms' with which the inhabitants of Canada received them, had caused the bodies of several of their comrades to be left disrespected corpses, exposed for hours on the public streets. Though some of those unfortunate men may be allowed to have been actuated by motives of wild adventure and plunder, all, it is believed, were grossly deceived as to the general state of pub- lic feeling in the colony at that disturbed period, by the re- presentations of reckless individuals among the colonists them- selves. Among the effects of the war of thirty years ago, there still lingers among the inhabitants of both countries along the fron- RECENT PROGRESS OF CANADA. 18j tier, the remains of the hitter hatred and unjust depreciation of each other which that odious conflict of brutal force engendered, where in instances brothers were known to have been fightin^ against brothers, and sons against fathers. The display of these old bad feelings give annoj ance and pain to the unprejudiced traveller, and many of the frontier troubles some years ago were chiefly ebullitions of those rankling sores which appear to take long time in healing. Among the most prominent results of the more recent dis- turbances of 1837-38-39 have been, that the serious attention of the Home Government having been directed by those events to the state of matters, substantial causes of disaffection have been removed, and closer attention now appears to be shown to the interests of the colony ; and general confidence having been thus won, Canada has displayed a greater degree of industrious and enterprising spirit, and, as a consequence, made more progress as a country these last five years than any former fifteen, perhaps, or even more. The late political rupture between the Governor-General and the Ministry may be looked upon in the light of the as yet unfamiliar detail of new machinery falling temporarily out of order, more than in any premeditated bad intentions of the workers, or inherent faults in the machinery itself. Time, and a better knowledge of each other's best interests and feelings, between the Home Government and colony, will most probably not only prove this to have been the case, but may develope a fuller acknow- ledgement on both sides of the advantages to be derived from cultivating, by enlarged views and a liberal spirit, the intimacy and perpetuation of the colonial connection. After having passed the rather high banks on which Wind- sor is situated, and the pleasant cottage residences, and or- chards, and green slopes, along the river, a few miles farther onward the low-lying banks of Lake St Clair show themselves, and the uninviting level aspect continues to the mouth of the N ■U 1 , r ■i t ! ■ km 186 APPENDIX TO THE LETTEIIS. River Thames, and some distance further. The land around the mouth of the Thames, and some way up the river, presents an extent of hundreds of acres of low Ihit prairie appearance, without a tree, the resort of ducks and other wild fowl ; and, during the dry months of summer, cattle may he seen grazing half hid among the rank vegetation. Towards Chatham, which is 15 miles up the deep full river, the banks become higher and are richly fertile ; but poorly managed, slovenly-looking farms appear. The settlers all along here, below Chatham, are chietly unambitious French. The town of Chatham, perhaps rather low lying to be very healthy, is a spirited place of about 1500 inhabitants, in which a good deal of business is done. The lands around it are of the very best description, the soil being a richly fertile black loam, producing heavy crops of wheat, pease, barley, and Indian corn. Some of the land close to the town is apparently low and flat, but up the river the banks are high, and the land finely lying. Chatham is indebted for much of its prosperity to a family of brothers, named Eberts, who are the principal owners of two steamboats, and one or two sail-vessels engaged in the trade of the town. The Messrs Eberts commenced many years ago to open a market for the produce of this locality, by sail- ing a small craft between the town and Detroit, and gra- dually increased their means until tiioy were enabled to place the Brothers steamboat upon the route, and now, besides their other vessels, they are proprietors of a large and comfortably fitted up hotel and other buildings in Chatham. Between Amherstburgh and Chatham, a distance of about 50 miles by land, a new road which is opening some miles oflF the shores, through the back country, will be an important improvement to this part. • Several miles up the Thames from Chatham is the small village of Louisville, to which schooners find sufficient depth of water to proceed and load their cargoes of wheat or staves. ttmm \ TIIK RIVKRS THAMES AND ST CLAIR. if^J lund the iunts an larance, r\ ; and) grazing 1, which ;her and ig farms am, are perhaps of about is done, the soil crops of the land he river a family \rs of two e trade ly years )y sail- Eind gra- to place es their ifortably of about le miles nportant He small nt depth staves. Farther upwards, the scenery of the Thames incroascn i;* beauty, and the lands are finely sitiiatcd, and preserve the fertile character they have all around here generally the whole way up the river, except some light spots at a few places. Moravian village, un Indian settlement about 20 miles above Chatham, near the main road to London, is an exceedingly delightful situation — one of the loveliest and most fertile spots one could wish to look upon in any country. It stands upon a plot of table land, formed by a full bend of the river, which the spectator would suppose almost encircles it. The houses and gardens are regularly laid out, and the spire of the church is a picturesque as well as otherwise gratifying feature of the scene. The grounds around appear to be well cultivated, and are all agreeably interspersed with fine trees, imparting a pleasing effect too seldom experienced in Canada. Farther along, upon the road to London, the land is of a rolling charac- ter, and the greater part of it good, though somewhat wet in parts, which, however, the improved drainage introduced upon the new plank-road in this direction may be expected greatly to remedv. Among the desirable spots for settlement in the Western District may be mentioned the banks of the River St Clair, from the commencement of the river, at the village of Sar- nia, to about half way down, including the township of Moore. The lands have an easy slope to the water, and the river scenery is very fine. Sarnia promises to be a thriving village, and, being situated on a high bank, is ver> Mthy. American villages arc scattered all along the opposite baiik of the St Clair. The new road between London and Sarnia will have a good effect in drying some portions of wet but most fertile land through this part. The Western District, consisting of two counties, Kent and Essex, and twenty-six townships, had, in 1841, a population of a little over 23,000, possessing 58,600 acres under pasture and cultivation, and 358,700 acres uncultivated. This extent V' ( i V,' if. 188 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. of occupied land, though indeed large, only amounts to be- tween a third and fourth part 2 the surface of this district ; as estimating e.- ch township to consist of the average of 61,600 acres, the entire surface of the Western District will con- sist of 1,601,600 acres, or more than double the extent of all Fifeshire and the three Lothians together— their surface being 776,320 acres— and as yet this richly fertile territory has only son ?where about a fourteenth part of the popula- tion of these counties, which, as we see, do not extend to half its size. THE OTHER PARTS OF THE GREAT PENINSULA. f I .' \ ■V' li id The remaining parts of the great "Western Peninsula of Canada, which, had this publication not already exceeded its prescribed limits, would have been a source of pleasure to have fully described, are the districts of Niagara, Gore, Wellington, and Simcoe, and the part of the Home district westward of the North or Yonge Street road, which, connecting Lake Ontario with Lake Simcoe, by a land communication of 36 miles, forms the neck of the peninsula. Lake Simcoe, as may be observed from the map, is connected with Lake Huron by a passage or strait named the River Severn, which is understood to re- quire improvements in parts to make it a good navigable chan- nel. Lake Simcoe, around whose shores front either nine or ten townships, has at present two or more steamboats plying upon it. THE DISTRICT OF SIMCOK. The newly erected district of Simcoe, consists of eighteen townships, the population of which, in 1841, was estimated at THE HOME DISTRICT, AND CITY OF TORONTO. 18<) cbout 12,000, and, although some oi the townships had then scarcely begun to be settled (one township having had only 22 acres under cultivation), the tota cultivated land amounted to 40,200 acres. Of this amount, one township, West Gwil- limbury, situated at the extreme south-western point of Lake Simcoe, possessed 12,300 acres. The township next best cul- tivated is the one immediately west of Gwillimbury, named Tecuraseh, which had under cultivation 9000 acres. THE HOME DISTRICT. The Home district, as now limited to the county of York, con- sisting of 24 townships, had, in 1841,nicludingthecity of Toron- to, a population of above 67,000, and the lands cultivated at that period amounted to 253,900 acres, or more than the cultivated surface of Dumfries-shire by above 50,000 acres, and only about 17,300 less than the cultivated portion of Lanarkshire, which is stated to be 271 ,296, and Dumfries-shire 232,557 acres. The four townships west of the Yonge Street road, connecting Lakes Ontario and Simcoe, and forming the eastern com- mencement of the great peninsula, contained a population, in 1841, exclusive of the city of Toronto, of above 17,000; and Toronto, which had then a population of above 14,000, is now, in A844, stated to have increased to about 20,000, and those townships now, 'ncluding the city, will probably con- tain somewhere about 40,000 souls. It has been already men- tioned in the Note to the Third Letter, * Prosperous Dairy Farming,' that the Home district is understood to be the most iniproved and best cultivated part of Canada, and a large pro- portion of the farmers a highly resp 3ctable, comfortable, and intelligent clios. The townsh'p of Markliam, which is believed to be among the first in point of improvement, had in 1841, 26,700 acres under cultivation, with a population of 5400, and who also possessed nearly 300 of the comfortable description of 'lf GA.lt and DUNDAS CONCLUDING REMARKS. 195 Home district, back of Toronto. From the Grand River, quan- tities finely ground and packed in barrels are shipped across Lake Erie to the American city of Buflfalo. The price at the Paris quarries is Is. a-bushel. Gait, the district town of the prosperous township of Dum- fries, is situated still farther up the Grand River, and is distant about 19 miles from Hamilton. Dundas is a small village, romantically situated in a finely wooded nook immediately beneath the Burlington ridge, four miles north-west of Hamilton. There is a lively stream running through it, upon which are large flour mills, carrying on a con- siderable business, and shipping the produce almost close from the village by means of a canal communicating with Bur- lington Bay, Lake Ontario. There is a good macadamised road between Dundas and Hamilton. Having thus completed a hasty view of this important and in- teresting portion of Canada, it were best, perhaps, that I take leave with a request, that the courteous reader would, if suffi- ciently interested, do both the subject and the writer the jus- tice of consulting acknowledged authorities or favourite writers upon Canada, as may be conveniently within reach, such as Bouchette, Gourlay, Macgregor, Montgomery Martin, Fer- guson, Buckingham, Murray's British America in the Edin- burgh Cabinet Library, Chambers's Information, and others, in whose publications, though not in the somewhat detailed form here imperfectly attempted, the reader will nevertheless find, it is believed, sufficient general evidence to satisfy him that the favourable opinions expressed in the foregoing pages respecting the greater part of this extensive peninsula, are not the result of mere partiality, but rather, as upon the whole they indeed are, well-weighed, candid, and most 196 APPENDIX TO THE LtXTERS. *."*■'■■ '. ■*, t?« m it fil II !S ! thoroughly disinterested expressions of the best judgment of the writer, who, in giving publicity to his views, desires to put forward no other pretensions than the simple one of aiming humbly to contribute, within his sphere, something which may prove of practical utility to a portion of his fellow country- men. Having much liked the country himself, and having had full opportunities of observing how comfortably it sustained its population, and possessed, in such over-abundance, room and resources, temptingly inviting occupation — the writer, with no other motives than arose from such reflections, conceived he might usefully employ the leisure which a short respite from ordinary duties, chiefly for the benefit of health, allowed him to have. This Western Peninsula of Canada is estimated to exceed in extent one half of the whole occupied territory of Upper Canada, which at present consists of 18 districts, subdivided into 273 townships and each township, upon an average, con- sisting of 61,600 acres. The peninsula, consisting of nine districts, and part of a tenth, comprising in all 144 townships, besides special tracts, is thu' shown to exceed, by many thou- sand acres, the half of the most important division of the finest province of all the British American dominions, and is, there- fore, more than worthy of the very brief notice here bestowed upon it. Although exceeding, however, in extent the occupied portion of Upper Canada, this important peninsula does not quite contain one half of the population — Upper Canada at preset t containing nearly about a fifth of the population of Scotland, or about 540,000. In 1841 Upper Canada contained about 450,000. This peninsula contained, in 1841, a population of above 214,000, or about a twelfth part of the population of Scotland ; and the extent of its surface is estimated to exceed 10,000,000 acres, or about double the extent of the whole culti- vated portion of Scotland, and almost every acre of these mil- lions in "Western Canada is capable of the highest degree of cultivation. In 1841 the cultivated lands in this portion of Ca- PROXIMITY OF CANADA RECENT GROWTH. 197 »ent of I to put aiming ch may ountry- ing had stained >om and with no jived he te from ved him ) exceed f Upper bdivided ige, con- of nine ivnships, ay thou- tie finest s, there- )estowed occupied ioes not mada at ation of ontained >pulation lation of exceed ole culti- lese mil- egree of m of Ca- nada amounted to about 764,000 acres, being above a seventh part of the cultivated lands of Scotland. As regards the price of lands, in entire proprietorship such does not nearly amount, upon an average, to the yearly rental of lands in Scotland ; and the public burdens in the shape of taxes are so light in the colony as scarcely to be felt, never at least affording founda- tion for a single murmur — while, at the same time, almost every imaginable comfort and luxury may be procured in the respectable and rapidly growing towns. This favoured terri- tory, too, with respect to distance from home, may be com- puted in the measure of time to be as near Britain as, within eighty years ago, Edinburgh was to London — it having, by the best public conveyance, taken from twelve to sixteen days to accomplish the journey between the Eng- lish and Scottish capitals, which time is now sufficient to accomplish the voyage across the Atlantic. The news brought from England by the Hibernia steam-ship, which sailed from Liverpool on the 4th July 1844, were received in the town of Hamilton, Canada, at the head of Lake Ontario, and published in the newspapers of that town on the 20th July, being within a period of sixteen days from the time the steam-ship left Eng- land. The Hamilton Gazette of July 22d, which published this statement, along with the news brought to America by the Hibernia, was received in this country and read in Edinburgh on the ] 5th August. The growth of population in this part of Canada is every year, especially of late, shown to be remarkably rapid. In 1824, the "Western District contained only 6950 inhabitants; ill 1828, the number was 8330 ; in 1832, 10,600 ; and, in 1841, the population of this district exceeded 23,000. The London district, in 1824, which then comprised the now distinct dis- tricts of Talbot, Brock, and Huron, containing in all only 17,530; in 1828, 19,800; and in 1832, 28,800 ; contained, in- cluding these districts, in 1841, no less a population than 57,500, or nearly three times the number of 1828. The Home ■. .K v., 198 APPENDIX TO THE LETTERS. ■a district, including the recently disjoined district of Simcoe, contained, in 1824, 16,600 ; in 1828, 22,900 ; and, in 1832, 40,600; contained in 1841,65,400; and this exclusive of the city of Toronto, which has now of itself neariy as large a population as the whole district in which it is situated pos- sessed in 1828, 16 years ago. -■'} P ;^1 We close these views with the opinion of the late Lord Sydenham upon this part of Canada, who, after having visited it in the course of a tour he performed through the colony in the capacity of Governor-General, in the autumn of 1840, writes thus concerning it : — ^ I am delighted to have seen this pa^ t of the country : I mean the great district, nearly as large as Ireland, placed be- tween the three Lakes Erie, Ontario, and Huron. You can conceive nothing finer! The most magnificent soil in the world — four feet of vegetable mould — a climate certainly the best in North America — the greater part of it admirably wa- tered. In a word, there is land enough, and capabilities enough, for some millions of people, and in one of the finest provinces in the world.' GENERAL VIEWS OF CANADA. ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE COLONY S PRESENT CONDITION AND PROSPECTS. m 1 1 '! ■ i • wL ! • . 9 ^ GENERAL VIEWS OF CANADA. EXTENT, GENERAL ASPECT, POPULATION, AND RESOURCES OF THE COLONY. The United Province of Canada comprises a long stretch of country : Commencing at its eastern extremity at the Gulf of St Lawrence and extending in a south-westerly direction along both sides of the River St Lawrence for a distance of between 600 and 700 miles, then, for about 100 miles along the north- em shore of the river, and for between 400 and 600 miles along the northern shores of Lakes Ontario and Erie ; and thence following a north-w ester? y course along the northern shores of the Lakes St Clair, Huron, and Superior, wit.i their connecting rivers — the extreme western boundary of this terri- tory is reached beyond Lake Superior, at the sources of the rivers and streams which fall into that lake. The extent of distance here sketched along the shores of this grand course of navigable waters, may he safely stated to exceed two thousand miles. The entire surface of the territory possessed by Canada, exclusive of its great waters, has been estimated hy the best authority, to consist of 190,000,000 acres ; or between two and three times the size of Great Britain and Ireland. This vast country, situated 3000 miles across the Atlantic, and usually reached by steam-ships in from twelve to sixteen days from Britain, and by sailing vessels in from thirty to fifty dayj?, lies between the latitudes of 41° 71' and 52*' north, and the meridians of 67° 50' and 117° west longitude. ^ ' .['■ ■I 'if ;i I 1 : » 1 '^^ H f, !: i^ PS-J^! t 200 APPEARANCE OP THE COUNTRY. The general aspect of Cana over those portions that are partly occupied and cultivated, situated along the hanks of the grand chain of rivers auu lakes mentioned, may he characterised as piesenting vast stretches of plains, rising at intervals slightly ahove each otlier, and forming a series of table lands, until that situated along the banks of Lake Supe- rior is ttvund to stand ab-jut 700 feet above the level of the Atlantic. The surface of these plains, with tho exception of the heights or ridges, whi'-^, besides forming them into table lands, In po,rts run throuj^h the country and divide the streams that have their fall southward into the basin of the St Law- rence, from ihose that have their course in a contrary di- rection—is one gently undulating, and very par*-* ally broken and diversified by innumerable streams of every imaginable dimension, from the slight rivulet to the broad and deep navigable river. Certain portions of the country, besides, are diversified by inland lakes, the niost remarkable of which in the settled parts is Lake Simcoe, situated about 36 miles distant from the north- w^estera shore of Lake Ontario, and which com- iiiunicates by means of the River Severn, with the Georgian Bay of Lake Huron ; and thus, leaving only the neck cf land of 36 miles, forms the eastern commencement of the great Western Peninsula of Canada. The appearance of the country on entering the River St Lawrence is bold, rugged, and even mountainous ; and, gene- rally speaking, for a course of about 500 miles, especially along the northern shore, the banks of this magnificent river preserve this marked character. Such, takeu in connection with the grand expanse of the gulf entrance (200 miles and more in breadth), and the bold width of the nver itself— can hardly fail of striking the imagination of the voyager as having happily bc'jn designed to form the most befitting approach to ihe vast sheets of water that stretch for 2000 miles and more into the interior of the continent. The extreme comLu jncement of the St Lawrence, where it would seem to contract its expanse RIVER ST LAWRENCE AND CITY OF QUEBEC. 201 at are nks of lay be jing at jries of ; Sape- of the jtion of to table streams )t Law- *ary di- broken iginable id deep ies, are ;h in the distant ch com- leorgian cf land e great !,iver St [d, gene- lly aloDg [preserve ith the more in iT dly fail happily Ihe vast linto the It of the expanse from the character of a jfuli intO that of a river, is formed by the easternmost point of Canada, Cape Rosier, a bold headland upon the south si. ore ; and ^.he breadth of en*^rance across here is estimt ted to be 90 miles. Continuing upwards for about 60 miles, this breadth diminishes to about 70 miles ; and 60 miles farther, where the river character indisputably commences— which is between Pointe des Monts on the norib, and Cape Chatte on the south — the breadth is estimated to be 24 miles. Upon the northern shores of the St Lawrence, from its commencement, Canada is bounded by rugged mou.itainous ridges which separate its tributary waters from those coursing in an opposite direction, and falling into Hudson's Bay. Among the most remarkable of the bold heights striking the eye of the voyager is one named Cape Tourment, 25 miles be- low Quebec, which, abruptly approaching the very brink of the river, towers upwards its bare bleak sides and top. and some- what prepares 'he spectator for the bold grandeur of the mag- nificent panorama of the basin- harbour of Quebec, where Cape Diamond, the Gibi'altar of America, as it has been called, ris- ing to a height of about 400 feet, crowned by its citadel and for- tifications of towers anu battlements, and enclosing within its walls the crowded tin-roofed antiquated city, with its convents, cathedrals, and churches — overlooks a scene which, for unit- ing grandeur and picturesque beauty in so striking a manner, is considered to be unsurpassed either in th*^ New or Old World. From the uppermost heights of the citadel, the spec- tator surveys bold ranges of hills fringing the noribern dis- tance, and forming the outposts of almost untracked territories beyond ; and between and tnese fringes of hills a''e the val- leys undulating and sloping to the St Lawrence, enlivened by verdant stripes of cultivation, and villages with their church spires, and patches of green woods, and small lakes, and wind- ing rivers glancing in the sun ; and then turning towards the south-westward, ! l|l m-. ;l^' m,^ i v&Pi 'iii '' aenting throngs of ships, timber rafts, steam-vessels, boats, and canoes, enlivening the mid-river, and clustering around the jetties at the foot of the steep rock — is attracted by the wooded and somewhat bold rocky banks on both sides up the river, here closing to about half-a-mile ; beyond which, to- wards the south, along the stretch of table-land, wide sweeps of plains present, for leagues upon leagues, their dark masses of forest, with sprinklings of houses and fields, until the dim mountains of the States of Maine and Vermont bound the view. Upon the south shore of the St Lawrence, and at the com- mencement of the river, Canada is bounded by New Bruns- wick, and farther upwards by the States above mentioned, and by those also of New Hampshire and New York, until about 60 miles above Montreal, when the remaining part of the riv of above 100 miles, and the centre channels of the lakes and rivers westward, become the southern boundary. The south shore of the river below Quebec, generally less stern in its fea- tures than the northern, presenting along its cultivated slopes, an almost continued stretch of French villages, with their church spires, occurring every six miles, or thereabouts — the Bcene forms one of pleasing contrast to the wild uncultivated appearance, for the most part, of the banks opposite. About 180 miles above Quebec is the city of Montreal, now the capital of Canada, and containing by tho census of the pre- sent year 44,090 inhabitants, bein^ fully double the population of 1 825. The banks of the St Lawrence here stretch out into smiling plains of most luxuriant appearance, in midst of which, and forming a main feature, is the garden-island of Montreal, 32 miles in length, and about 10 in breadth, upon which is situated the city, covering above 1 000 acres, with its quaint mixture of English, American, and French architecture, in its streets, shops, English and Scotch churches, and French cathedral towers and spire?, and ancient convents; and rising from, and forming a sheltering back-ground to the city on the north, is the ' Mountain,' as it is called, thickly wooded ASCENT OP THE ST LAWRENCE TO KINGSTON. 203 lats, and )und the by the 28 up the liich, to- ; sweeps k masses 1 the dim the view, the com- w Bruns- med, and itil about 'the riv lakes and rhe south in its fea- ;ed slopes, vith their touts — the cultivated treal, now of the pre- population ;h out into t of which, Montreal, n which is its quaint ;ecture, in nd French cuts ; and to the city kly wooded % with bushy trees to the summit— an elevation of above 500 feet, ^'ommanding a magnificen' view of the picturesque and luxu- riant country around, the expanse of the St Lawrence, and the bold mountain scenery in the distance. Along the substantially- built stone wharfs skirting the south of the town, and icvards the broadest channel of the river, lie the throng of ships, barges, and steam-vessels, loading and unloading the natural products «^f the interior, and the manufactures, and other merchandise of Britain. Montreal, situated about 600 miles up the St Lawrence, forms the head of the ocean navigation, and the main point at which the produce of the interior arrives in small steamboats, steam-propellers, and barges, for reshipment on board the Atlantic-going vessels. The number of vessels which entered the St Lawrence from the sea for the ports of Quebec and Montreal in 1841, amounted to nearly 1400, above 1000 of which, employing above 15,000 men, were from Great Britain and Ireland ; the remainder were from other North American colonies, the "West Indies, Africa, and fo- reign European ports. The distance between Montreal and the commencement of the great lakes at the town of Kingston, the lower extremity of Lake Ontario, is 180 miles. The navigation of the St Law- rence in this space is greatly impeded by rapids, to overcome 'vhich, a series of canals, long ago contemplated, and for some 'e^rs in operation upon a limited scale, are now being com- ? eted upon so grand a scale, as will allow ocean vessels, should they see fit, to proceed with their cargoes to the inland lakes, so far as Lake Huron, or even to the foot of Lake Superior, about 2000 miles into the interior. The distance between Montreal and Kingston is accomplished, by the speediest conveyances of steamboat and stage-coach, in about 26 hours upwards, and 24 hours down the river. The scenery along the banks, enlivened by cascades, foaming rapids, and innumerable islands, is ex- ceedingly picturesque in parts, and is much visited by travel- '■ lers from the United States in cba course of summer excur- i'l m ■■I u ■ ■4 •X- IvWV A.-: 2C4 OTTAWA COUNTRY KINGSTON LAKE ONTARIO. sions to the cities of Quebec and Montreal, and the Falls of Niagara, Montmorency, Chauderie, and other places of note* The country in the imm liatc vicinity of both the south and north shores is rather tame than otherwise^ and further wants the cultivated appearance it presents around Montreal and Quebec, and along parts of the shores of the lakes westward. But farther into ihe interior, off the broad margin of the north shore, along the course of the groat stream of the Ottawa, which flows into the St Lawrence some distance above Mont- real, £.id betvv'f'n the Ottawa and Lake Ontario, the face of the country is a • 'fed by ridges and bold heights, and also by numerous strei. and inland lakes. The Rideau Canal, a work constructed by the Imperial Government for military purposes, passing ^'arough this part of the interior from a point some distance up the Ottawa to Kingston, is almost one con- tinned chain of inland waters. The chief link of these waters is Rideau Lake, forming the summit level of the canal, and being 280 feet above the Ottawa River, and 150 above Lake Ontario. Having reached Kingston, at the foot of Lake Ontario, after an ascent up the St Lawrence, marked by numerous. rapids, the commencement of the country along the shores of the great lakes is found to be 200 or 300 feet above the level of the Atlantic. The town of Kingston, with a population of about 10,000, is very favourably situated in a spacious bay, and with its strongly-built stone fortress upon the summit of a rocky hill overlooking the town, the river, and the lake — the place altogether strikes the observer as one of much strength as well as beauty of situation, and may be said to form at once a commanding and inviting approach to the gigantic in- land lakes. Lake Ontario, 170 miles long and 60 broad, and about 470 in circumference, presents along its banks one vast stretch of plain, only partially broken by an inconsiderable ridge which runs through it, and which, coursing around the }jead of the lake, forms the commencement of table-land of the T^ .10. alls of f note* ith and ■ wants ;al and stward. e north 3ttawa, 3 Mont- face of and also I Canal, military 1 a point one con- ;e waters mal, and pve Lake Ontario, luinerou?- shores o^ the level Illation of ous bay, mmit of a ake — the strength form at erantic in- road, and one vast insidorahle round the and of the SHORES OF LAKE ONTARIO AND BAY OF QUINTE. 205 Western Peninsula. The north shore of Lake Ontario has nothing very striking in its appearance, being chiefly either composed of agreeable slopes, level flats, and in places some what bolder, of high sandy or clayey banks. One of the most fertile and beautiful portions of this lake is the magnificent inlet of the Bay of Quinte, commencing near Kingston, and forming a spacious indentation of about 70 miles to the mouths of the Riverb Trent and Moira. The towns of Belleville and Picton are situated in this bay, the former at the mouth of the Moira, and the latter is the chief town of the well cultivated and old settled peninsula of Prince Edward, formed by the n€ar approach of the waters of the bay and the main lake, not far from the mouth of the River Trent, near the wesrern point of the bay. The shores of this bay are more diversified and pleasing in their features than those of the lake, and, in the picturesque nook in which Picton is situated, the scenery is agreeably characterised by finely wooded heights. Two or more steamboats regularly ply between the ports of this fine bay and the town of Kingston. The towns situated along Lake Ontario are, Kingston at the foot of the lake, Toronto 3o miles from the head, and Hamilton at the extreme head — with intermediate and smaller towns, the chief of which are Cobourg and Port Hope, both thriving places, the former with a population of between 1500 and 2000. Following the chain of waters westward, the traveller ap- proaches the Niagara River, 33 miles long, and connecting Lake Ontario with Lake Erie. The town of Niagara is situated near the moutb of the river; and the small village of Queenston, at the foot of the table-lant^, which stretches west- ward, and forms the celebrated Falls, is about four miles far- ther up, and nine miles from the Falls, and about 20 miles from Lake Erie. This part of the country, westward to Lake Huron, having been somewhat described in preceding pages, we may pass to the parts situated still farther westward. The ihores of Lake Erie present features very much similar to If 206 LAKE ONTARIO TO ST MARY S CHANNEL. U 11 VS H In * " ■ tf "'i * r - ^a? those of Lake Ontario, the banks of Lake Erie being gene- rally, perhaps, bolder and more elevated, and composed chiefly of clay and sand. The more fertile parts are situated some distance off the banks, throughout the extensive plain of table- land beyond, situated 560 feet above the level of the ocean. The extent of Lake Erie is about 265 miles long, and from 30 to 60 broad, and in circumference between 600 and 700. The chan- nel connecting Lake Erie with Lake St Clair, called the De- troit River, is about 27 miles long, and in places several miles broad, and interspersed with many islands. Lake St Clair, from 20 to 30 miles long, and about the same breadth, and the smallest of all the lakes, leads to the St Clair River, in length about 30 miles, which river opens to the wide expanse of Lake Huron, of about 1000 miles in circumference. The shores of this inland sea, as it may well be named, are as yet imper- fectly known ; although along its eastern banks, which for the most part are agreeably elevated and richly fertile, an in- dustrious and thriving population are fast settling. We may now be said to have arrived at the farthest western point of the occupied portion of Canada. Beyond this extends the northern shores of Lake Huron and Lake Superior, with the connecting river or strait of St Mary, between 30 and 40 miles long. The character of the scenery on entering St Mary's Channel is the most delighful, one is led to suppose, that can possibly be imagined. It was in a calm clear sunny day of August (1841) that the writer, among others, forming a party upon a tour up the lakes, entered this channel, when a gcene so agreeable, in contrast to the seemingly boundless deep blue expanse of Lake Huron, presented itself, as still to leave a vivid and most pleasing impression. A calm bright surface of water without a ripple lay stretched out far- ther than the eye could reach, studded closely with numerous islands, each encircled by a ring of pebbled and sanded beach, and luxuriantly covered with trees and other foliage. The channel throughout, with the exception of several small lakes. I APPROACH TO LAKE SUPERIOR. 207 gene- chiefly d some f table- ,n. The ;0 to 60 e chan- the De- al miles It Clair, and the n length J of Lake shores of it imper- I'hich for le, an in- t western s extends rior, with and 40 tering St suppose, ear sunny brming a when a boundless If, as still A calm id out far- numerous ed beach, ge. The nail lakes. seemed to be almost packed with islands; but, in proportion to its intricacy to the navigator, it was every now and then re- vealing new aad striking beauties of wooded heights and steep banks clothed with verdure, and spots of flat fertile meadows, and, at times, bare, rocky, fantastic crags, yielding delight to the tourist. The sides of the ridges of table-lands that skirted the country around the borders of Lake Superior appeared in the distance clothed with one mass of lively green ; and from the hue and luxuriance of the foliage in parts, there seemed to be hundreds of acres in extent of groves of the maple tree pre- sented foour view. Our vessel, a large steamboat named the Cleveland, about 400 tons, which had sailed from Lake Erie for a fortnight's ex- cursion, approached within about 18 miles of Lake Superior, at the foot of the Falls, or rather, more properly speaking, Kapids of St Mary — whence, divided into numerous small parties, those who were sufficiently tempted to have a sight of Lake Superior, took the further voyage in canoes and batteaux. The region in this direction seemed much less fertile, the trees along the shores of the broad strait appearing to be chiefly of the pine species, and the soil, in parts which we saw, rather light and sandy, and the lands close upon the banks principally low-lying and flat. ••-■,.. '-'■,■ ,. .;- ■ ^, ,,>:._. -.:„■;/. __ ..„ -i'r,^'';. As we approached the great Queen Lake, or inland sea, 640 miles long and 140 in breadth, dark blue masses of hills up- rose, somewhat reminding the voyager of the approaches to the St Lawrence, in the forms of the headlands of Cape Rosier and others, yet being neither so high nor so bold as those. The main entrance to the lake is marked by two such rocky badlands, one upon either shore, several miles apart. From the heights of the one on the northern shore, named Gros Cap, composed of the ropk known as the old red sandstone, the sides of which were partially covered with junipers, blue bells, wild briars, and other vegetation, reminding one of Scottish hills — we overlooked a scene of the most imposing and still grandeur possibly to be imagined. The dim distance into the lake was 1 1 r ■I iiit ? 1 1"- 1 ^ ) i 200 CLIMATE AND SHORES OF LAKE SUPERIOR. >)ounded hy vast islands, and along both shores bold uneven banks uprose, apparently covered with dark dense foliage, and Htretched themselves in irregular course as far as the eye could Mcan along the wide expanse of water that presented no speck of navigation. The light craft of our party alone lay in the small clear crystal bay at the foot of the rock. Between the lake and the rapids we had passed three or fonr vessels engaged in the fur and fishing trade, which were chiefly the whole of the lleet of Lake Superior. The climstte of this region, like that of others comparatively little visited and consequently imper- fectly known, has been greatly exaggerated with respect to its severity in winter. Major J. B. Campbell, an officer in the United States Service, wintering there during 1843-44, and taking the opportunity to correct the erroneaus impression, writes, under date of December 15th 1843,^ from Copper Har- bour, that the weather had been exceedingly mild for the la- titude, the thermometer never having been lower than 16** below freezing, and that the day previous it was, at Y2 o'clock, tempe- rate, in the open air, and that the snow had never exceeded six inches in depth. The shores of Lake Superior, although im- perfectly explored, are believed to be abundant in mineral re- sources ; and besides a large fur trade, prosecuted by the Hud- son Bay and other Companies along its shores, a considerable business in fishing is carried on by the Americans. A short canal, of about three quarters of a mile, is all that is required to extend ship navigation to the remotest part of this last grand link in the chain of great lakes. But as there is still almost ue- limited portions of more favourably-situated territories to be occupied before having recourse here so far westward, the time for such a work on the part of Canada may be said not to have arrived. " Having thus concluded a hasty survey of the lake and river borders of Canada, we will proceed to close these introductory general views of the country by a glance at its constituted divisions, amount of population, and chief resources. GOVERNMENT OF CANADA. 209 uneven ;e, and e could speck f in the he lake aged in B of the ike that imper- nt to its r in the 44, and iression, er Har- ■ the la- 6« below :, tempe* eded six )ugh im- neral re- che Hud- siderable A short qnired to ist grand most UE- ies to be , the time )t to have and river roductory onstituted Canada, formerly divided into two provinces, known an Upper and Lower Canada, with separate legij^latures, was, in 1841, hy an act of the Impi-rial Parliament, constituted one province with one legislature. The (lovernment is desi}2;ned to resemble as closely as possible that of the mother country. A Governor, appointed by the Crown to represent Sovereign interests, a Ministry termed the Executive Council, chosen by the Governor to act as his advisers, and to conduct chief public offices— two Houses of Legislature, one, the Legislative Council, nominated by the Governor ; the other, the Legislative Assembly, elected by the people — these compose the Govern- ment of the colony. Members of the House of Assembly require to be possessed of freehold property of the value of £800 colonial currency ; and electors of freehold property of the value of 40s. Members of Assembly during session have tin allowance of pay for their services, and the body un- dergo-'s a new election every four years. The seat of Govern- ment of United Canada is the city of Montreal. The present Governor is the Right Honourable Sir Charles Theophilua Metcalfe, Bart. K.G.C.B., one of Her Majesty's Privy Coun- cil, and Governor-in-Chief over the Provinces of British North America. Canada, although now united for legislative and other pur- poses, will most probably continue to be viewed and spoken of under its formerly recognised divisions of Upper and Lower Canada. [The terms Eastern and Western introduced at the period of the union, appear to be already getting into disuse, and the more familiar, as well as sufficiently appropriate terms brought back.] Lower Canada is divided into four chief dis- tricts, named Quebec, Three Rivers, Montreal, and Gaspe. Gaspe, commencing at the eastern extremity of Canada, upon the south shore, at the mouth of the St Lawrence, con- tains two counties, comprising one seignory, six fiefs, and ten townships.' The Quebec district, comprising the whole northern shore from the gulf, and the southern, from the western boi^n* ilt. 310 DIVISIONS OF CANADA. EL'UHr "1 ?! >j iw,'fflW > ■ i' Im' V lAi 'i 'I A'^'>v \ i li ''■ :.i J' 51 i) II! )! -A dary of Gaspe to the mouth of the River St Anno, 60 miles above the city of Quebec— is divided into 13 counties, with the subdivisions of 79 seignories, 12 fiefs, and 38 townships. Three Rivers district, conun'ncing at the River St Anne, and continuing up both sides of the St L-awrence towards the upper part of the expanse of Lake St Peter, contains 6 counties subdivided into 25 seignories, 6 fiefs, and 10 town- ships. Montreal district, commencing at the western boun- dary of Three Rivers, and continuing along both sides of the St Lawrence to the division line of Upper Canada at the village of St Regis, 60 miles above the city of Montreal — contains \d counties, subdivided into ^Q seignories, 8 fiefs, and 45 townships. Upper Canada, comprising the remaining territory all along the northern shores of the lakes and rivers westward to the sources of Lake Superior, is divided into 18 districts, sub- divided into 273 townships. These districts and townships are the municipal divisions, a set of oflicers being » inually elected by the townships for purely local purposes, and the bo- dies named District Councils being elected by the districts for the more extended purposes of general improvements, and pro- viding for education, and the administration of justice within the di.-trict. The province is further subdivided into counties and ridings, which divisions are chiefly recognised for legisla- tive purposes — counties, ridings, cities, and towns, returning members to the Provincial Parliament. A district always con- tains one, and in instances two and three counties. Ridings are subdivisions of the larger counties. Counties so vary in size as to contain in instances only six up to above twenty town- ships. The size of a township is ten miles square, which ter- ritory again is subdivided into concessions and lots. A town- *'hip is divided into eleven concessions or ranges, usually running east end west, with roads along the division lines, and each range or concession is further divided by lines at right angles into 28 lots, each lot containing 200 acres, the PROGRESS AND CHARACTER OF DISTRCITS. 211 ordinary size of a farm iti Canada. These concessions, it will be observed, serve the purposes of streets in towns, and, when it is known that the concessions and lots are all regularly numbered, the resemblance between concessions and lots, and houses and streets, becomes more apparent. The address of the most remote inhabitant in Canada may be thus precisely ascertained: Thus, for example, A. B., Lot 10, 1st Concession, Township of Westminster, London District, Canada. The districts of Upper Canada, situated along the north shore of the St Lawrence, from the western boundary of the lower division of the province to the commencement of Lake Ontario, are the Eastern, Ottawa, Johnston, Bathurst, and part of the Midland district. The four entire districts con- tained, in 1823, 42,300; in 1^30, 85,100; and, in 1841, 103,190. The largest and most populous of these districts is Johnston, which contains 2 counties and 1 8 townships, with a population of 35,900 in 1841. It is situated close upon the St Lawrence, immediately above the Eastern district, the lowermost or most easterly district of Upper Canada; and, joining the eastern boundary of the Midland district, ex- tends nearly to Lake Ontario, The towns of Johnston, Pres- cott, Brockville, Gannanoqui are in the Johnston district. This section of country enjoys important advantages in be- ing situated between the two great navigable rivers, the St Lawrence on the south, and the Ottawa on the north ; and possesses abundance of limestone very suitable for building. The soil is chiefly composed of a brown clay and yellow loam ; the drawbacks it is known to have are, that it is wet in some parts and stony in others. The districts situated along Lake Ontario to the eastern commencement of the Western Peninsula, are the Midland, Prince Edward, Victoria, Newcastle, and the greater part of the Home district as now limited. These districts en- tire, consist of 8 counties and 93 townships. In 1823 they contained a population of 53,600 ; in 1836, 144,500 ; and in 'X- I 212 rorULATlON OF CANADA. f: .'J- *y* 1 ' 1^*^^; 1841, 100,G00, beinp; between three and four times the amount of population they possessed in H\'2'.i. This section is under- stood to be the most improved and wealthy part of Cimada. The soil i8 very diversified in its character, varying from light sand to rich black h)arn. The most fertile, and generally ad- vantageous parts, are perhaps in the Prince Edward district, or peninsula, around the shores of the Bay of Quinte~the front part of the Newcastle district, upon the banks of Lake Ontario, and back part of the Home district, along the Yonge Street road leading to L:»ke Simcoe. Limestone for building 1*8 found in most parts. The towns of Kingston, Ik'lk'vllle, at the mouth of the Moira, near the head of the Bay of Quinte, Cobourg, in the district of Newcastle, upon the shore of Lake Ontario, 100 miles above Kingston— are now, to a considerable extent, built of this limestone. There are numbers of good roads tbroujjh ihe greater portion of this section of Canada, several of which are macadamised, and one or two planked, besides others contemplated to be, or now being, subject to thia latter mode of improvement. The remaining occupied portion of Upper Canada, westward to the eastern shore of Lake Huron, embraced in the great Western Peninsula, containing the districts of Gore, Wel- lington, Simcoe, Niagara, Talbot, Brock, London, Huron, and the Western, with their subdivisions of 144 townships, having elsewhere, in preceding pages, been prominently no- ticed—there now only remains to be mentioned, the pre- sent amount of population in Canada, and some of its chief resources. The population of Lower Canada is estimated to amount to about 730,000, and that of Upper Canada, in 1842, was computed to be 506,000. The total population of United Canada at present may be estimated to be somewhere about 1,350,000, which is an amount exceeding half of the popula- tion of Scotland in 1841 by 40,000. In 1759, the period when the colony came into the possession of Britain, Lower Canada rorrL\Tioy and amount ok rur/nvviKD land. 218 was believi'd to contain 6/>,000 inhabitants ; in 1704, the year in which Uj)por Cmala ho«^an to be Hfttied, the popuhition of the lower province had increased to 113,000; in \H-2,'i, the number wai^ 42;M»00; and in la.U, it was 511,900. Upper Canada in J7f)l, when a constitution wan bestowed upon it, and it was formed into a separate f^overnment (it havinp; pre- vious to that oeriod composed part of the province of Que- bec)— wat. supj osed to contain a population not exceeding 10,000; in 1811, the number of inhabitants was computed to be about 77,000; in l{{2i, after emigration from llritain began rapidly to augment the population of the colony, the numy)er of inhabitants had increased to l.'51,000; in 1828, to 185,500; in 1832, to 290,000; and in 1835, to 330,000. These returns show that, from 1824 to 1835, the inhabitants of Upper Canada had much more than d' ihled their numbers within a period of 11 years, and that, IVom 1828 to the pre- sent time, a period of 1(5 years, their numbers have been nearly tripled. The annual number of persons arriving at Quebec within the last 13 years, up to 1841, is officially stated to have been nearly 25,000— their havinir, up to that period, from 1829 inclusive, arrived at that port in all, 321,000 ; Great Britain and Ireland having furnished the whole number, with the exception of between 4000 and 5000. Of the population of Upper Canada in 1842, 247,600 were natives of Canada of British descent, 70,200 were Irish, 40, GOO English, nearly 40,000 Scotch, and nearly 33,000 Americans ; the remainder, of above 20,000 were natives of the Continent of Europe and of Canada, of French descent. The amount of land under cultivation in U}iper Canada was, in U i2, estimated to be 1,751,500 acres, being more than a third of the cultivated portion of Scotland. In Lower Canada there is estimated to be 3,000,000 acres under cultivation, which, added to the amount cultivated in Upper Canada, shows a cultivated surface in United Canada of 4,751,500 acres, which is very nearly the extent of cultivated laud in, I 4 i a1 mk • 1 -t i 214 AMOUNTS OF LAND OCCUPIEr AND UNOCCUPIED. Scotland, it being returned as slightly exceeding 5,000,000 acres. The extent of land occupied, but uncultivated, in Upper Ca- nada, was estimated in the returns of 1842 to be 6,212,700 acres, making, together with the land cultivated, not quite 8,000,000 acres, which amount does not include half the extent of land set apart in the constituted districts and town- ships, and is only about a third of the (available territory within the limits recognised as the occupied, or in the imme- diate vicinity of the strictly occupied jarts. The extent of land laid out into townships in Upper Canada is estimated to be between 17,000,000 and 18,000,000 acres, and, including tracts situated either within, or in the vicinity of the districts, the available extent is computed to exceed 21,000,000 acres. And, with regard to the ur. occupied portions of Lower Canada,it greatly exceeds that of the upper part of the province, but th^ proportion of its surface cultivated is greatly less. Among the most valuable parts of Lower Canada, containing most unoccu- pied land, are perhaps the Eastern Townships, comprising the St FranciS territory, in the district of Three Rivers, and a tract in the vicinity of the River Saguenay, on the north shore of the St Lawrence below Quebec, which is understood to be very fer- tile, and the land low priced. Among the roost fertiJe parts of Upper Canada, containing the greatest extent of unoccupied territory, are believed to be the large tracts of Crown territory, and Canada Company's lands, situated in the north-western portion of the Western Peninsula, and chiefly lying along the eastern shores of Lake Huron. The banks of the magnificent River Ottawa, which empties itself into the St Lawrence at the western boundary of Lower Canada, and extends in a north-westerly direction into almost untracked regions of the interior, offer space for settlement, loosely speaking, nearly unlimited, and a soil, in parts, of the most fertile description. The resources of 'vhich Canada is enabled to export a su'plus, are chiefly the agriculture and dairy proviuce of wheat and lED. RESOURCES OP CANADA WHEAT AND FLOUR 215 )0 acres, per Ca- ,212,700 ot quite half the id town- territory le imrae- (xtent of m?ted to including districts, )D0 acres. [Canada, it e, but the .n'.ong the st unoccu- irising the Hid a tract horc of the e very fer- )e parts of noccupied territory, th-western along the lagnificent avrence at tends in a ions of the mg, nearly iscription. t a su'plus, wheat and wheat-flour, butter and cheese, lard, and salted bsef and pork ; the produce of the forest, which includes timber, pot and pearl ashes, furs and poltries; and the produce of the lake, river, and sea fisheries. Ship-building rnd manufactures are also among the directly profitable resources of the colony. The exports to Great Britain in 1841 of wheat and wheat- flour amounted to 388,400 barrels of flour, and 450,500 mi- nota [Lower Canada measure, 100 minots being about equal to 90 bushels]. To the sister North American colonies, Canada exported the same year 11,300 barrels of flour, and 1000 minots of wheat. In 1843, according to a Parliamentary paper printed by the House of Commons., June 1844, Bri- tain received from the British North American colonies (chiefly if not entirely from Canada), 15,861 quarters of wheat, and 328,186 cwts. of wheat flour. A consideraMe por- tion of this produce is, as is known, directly or indirectly re- ceived by Canada from the United States, a low duty admit- ting United States wheat into the colony, which being there manufactured into flour is exported and received into Britain as Canada produce at the almost nominal colonial duty. Beef, pork, and butter, are also received by Canada from the United States. The average annual quantity of wheat exported by Canada for a period of five years, ending 1831, was 747,200 bushels, and for four years ending 1835, the average annual amount was 780,000 bushels. And during these latter men- tioned four years, Canada, by the United States official returns, is shown to have exported to that country, upon an average, each year, 60,000 bushels of wheat ; and 7100 cv ts. uf flour. The encouragement Britain has extended to Canada in the recent modified tariff" in favour of colonial produce, has, as might be expected, greatly stimulated agriculturists and others in the co- lony ; and an improved emigration, as respects the pre portion of skill and capital during the last two years, ha^-ing been also among the results of the measure, it may, therefore, in all pro- bability, be expected that no inconsiderable supplies of bread ¥ I 216 EXPORTS 1844 WOllKING OF THE NEW TARIFF. Stuffs and provisions will henceforth be received from this quarter by Britain. It has been elsewhere stated [Note * Improved Prospects of the Country,' page 119] that up to 25th June of the present year (1844), and, during aperiod of about two months from the opening of the internal navigation, there had been received at the port of Montreal, from the interior of Canada, 206,248 bushels of wheat, and 350,022 barrels of flour, being 22,097 quarters of wheat, and 610,752 cwts, of hour, an amount much exceeding the total importation into Britain from the whole North American colonies during 1843. Of these amounts of wheat produce, above 46^030 barrels of flour, and 95, 0.)0 bushels of wheat were received by Canada from the United States. While Canada is thus shown to receive from the United States, through the working of the new tariff, a portion of sup- plies of produce for the English market, the agriculturists of Britain, it is believed, need be under no apprehension in regard to an, very marked effect of this measure upon their interests ; since, from estimates which, roughly speaking, may be con- sidered correct (and rather under than overstated), the amount of wheat produce received by Canada across her United States frontier forms but a small proportion of the surplus produce of the wheat-growirg States of America. The shipments from the leading ports of the States of Ohio and Michigan, situated along the south shore of Lake Erie, amounted, by the esti- mates referred to, in 1842, to 2,454,823 bushels of wheat, and 771,443 barrels of flour ; and, in 1843, to 2,142,016 bushels of wheat, and 1,012,849 barrels of flour.* These amounts, com- * TJie United States official returns for 1842 of the crops in the va- rious parts of th'j Union set down 25, 387, 409 bushels of wheat raised in tlie State of Ohio that year, with a population of 1,711,935 ; and 3,952,389 bushels in the State of Michigan, with a population of 2(56,303. The total wheat crop of the United Htutos in 1842 is, in these official returns, est:- luated to have been 102,317,340 bushels, or 11,000,000 of quartera.-- From Report t(j the Congress of the United States hy Commissioner the Hon. W. II. Ellaco) th. 1843. T IFF. PROVISION TRADte OP CANAbA. 217 rom this *ros}pect«i e present 1 from the iceived at , 206,248 ng 22,097 )unt much the whole mounts of ►:)0 bushels ed States, iie United ion of sup- lulturists of n in regard r interests ; I ay be con- the amount lited States 1 produce of ments from an, situated by the esti- wheat, and G bushels of omits, com- op3 in the va- heat raised in and 3,952,389 }03. The total returns, est- of quarters. — nmissioner the pared with the enMr*^ shipments received by Britain from Ca- nada in these years, show small cause for uneasiness on the part of British producers; while the quantity received at present, and likely to be afterwards received, may be believed somewhat to mitigate the restrictions upon foreign importations of grain, and, at the same time, the internal canal, river, and lake carry- ing trade, and milling and other interests of Canada, and also British shipping employed in carryingfromthe St Lawrence, will receive considerable encouragement The fears that have been expressed in quarters, of grain being likely to be clandestinely received across ihe United States frontier into Canada, may be relied upon to be— from acquaintance with the nature of that frontier, and the circumstances affecting such clandestine trade, while the present rate of duty remains — without foundation. Beef, pork, butter, and cheese, at present are exported to Britain by Canada to a limited amount. To the sister North American colonies Canada exported, in 1841, 19,000 barrels of pork, and 1700 barrels of beef, and to the British West Indies 11,400 barrels of pork, and 800 barrels of beef. . • The provision trade of Canada, favoured b\ the recent re- duction of duties, is most likely to beco one of considerable importance to the colony. More and more care is being taken every season to select and prepare articles in the iiiust suitable manner for the British market. The Montreal Board oi Trade, composed of intelligent and influential merchants, circulated over the country detailed directions, setting forth the most a{t- proved modes of preparation ; and, in instances, experienced curers have been brought from England to superintend the ope- rations of houses engaged in the trade. From returns of ar- rivals of produce at Montreal, there had been received at thai port from the interior of Canada during 1844, up to the 10th September, 7037 barrels of pork, 1582 barrels of beef, 8,nd 2766 kegs of butter. Besides these quantities from Canada, 'i.here had been received from the United States an addition to the quan- tity of pork, amounting to above 13,000 barrels. Up to the 'VM 4! I 218 TIMBER TRADE, FISHINGS, AND MANUFACTURES. same period of 1843, there had been received at Montreal in all of United States and Canada produce, less than half the quan- tities of pork and butter received this year, and about three- fourths of the quantity of beef, The amount of these provisions shipped to Britain, during 1844, to 10th September, from Que- bec and Montreal, was reported to be above 5000 barrels of pork, nearly 3000 barrels of beef, and above 1400 Irega of butter, Of timber, Canada exported to Britain and Ireland, in 1841, 31,384 tons of oak, and 373,800 tons of red and white pine, and of staves above 6,000,000 pieces, besides quantities, both of staves and timber, to the other colonies, including the West Indies, and also to the United States, South America, and France. In 1835, the exports of timber to Britain, Ireland, and the colonies together, showed 19,798 tons of oak, and 303,340 tons of pine. In 1842, the exports were not indeed nearly so large as in 184/; it is, however, conjectured, from rough esti- mates, that those of 1843 would be as large, and probably larger. The removal of part of the protective duties upon Baltic in favour of Canada timber, is believed to have had more the effect of introducing greater economy in conducting the details of the trade in the colony, than in T)roducing any material check in the amount exported to Britain. Of the other articles exported — besides ashes (which appear to be rather on the decrease, since substitutes of British manu- facture are being more used ), and. ars and peltries— large quan- tities of salmon, cod-fish, herring., mackerel, lobsters, fish oil, and seal skins, are shipped to the West Indies and other parts, chiefly from the district of Gaspe, near the mouth of the St Lawrence, Among the manufactures of Canada exported by the colony, are soap, candles, leather, nails, moccasin?, whiskey, and ale — which commodities are chiefly shipped >j the sister North American colonies and the West Indies. - ^mong other manufactures not exported may be mentioned fRES. EMPLOYMENT OP BRITISH SHIPPING. 219 .r-i real in all the quan- >ttt three- provisions torn Que- barrels of ) Ijega of cl, in 1841, ) pine, and 3S, both of r the West lerica, and relandjand ,nd 303,340 d nearly so rough esti- jd probably iuties upon o have had conducting oducing any hich appear ritish manu- • large quan- ers, iish oil, other parts, ith of the St y the colony, ;key, and ale sister North be mentioned coarse woollen cloth, flannel and linen, woven chiefly by do- mesdclooms, and also worsted, of which last 1,302,500 lbs. were returned in the census of 1842, as produced in Upper Canada ' alone ; and of all kinds of domestic cloth made that year in the same division of the colony, the returns state the number of yards at 1,327,700. Of maple sugar there were produced the same year in Upper Canada, 3,699,800 lbs. Cordage, starch, blue, paper, iron, stoves, ploughs, hollow ware, and ma- chine castings, and other articles of lesser note, are also among the manufactures of Canada. Besides numbers of large ships built at Quebec for the At- lantic trade, and, farther up the St Lawrence, brigs, schooners, steamboats, and other craft, for the river and lake navigation — a barque, owned and freighted by a company in the colony, arrived last season at Montreal, direct from China, with a cargo of teas, silks, and fancy wares, sHxC this vessel was expected to be the precursor of a regular trade. The number of vessels •'eturned in 1841, as having entered the St Lawrence in the trade of the colony, has been stated in a preceding page to have been between 1300 and 1400, with an amount of men exceeding 18,000. Above 1000 vessels, with 15,000 men, were entered from Britain and Ireland. In the year ending 5th Janupry 1844, according to recent returns to Parliament, 2215 British ships were entered inwards at Bri- tish ports from British North America, being as large a num- ber as all the British and foreign vessels entered inwards during the same period from the West Indies, East Indies, and the United States together.* The total official value of manufactures exported by Britain in 1843 to the North American colonies amounted to £1,751,200 sterling, of which £334,500 value were cotton, and £270,000 ' See Return printed by Ihe House of Commons, June 26, 1844. Other statements here mentioned are upon the authority of the Quebec Cus- torn-House Returns, Legislative Journals of Canada, and other source;;^ believed to be authentic. « ,^ :4 IS'^'^ W ^; f'>^v .' h'!(i lis K' bI 220 BRITISH AND OTHER IMPORTS INTO CANADA. ; woollen manufactures, ancl£336,000 iron and steel, and hardware manufactures. These amounts of exports from Britain may be observed to show a decrease compared with former years, and only a small increase on the average of many years back; but it is not therefore to be concluded that Canada and the other North American colonies are being limited in their resources, and making little or no progress. A very large trade has been growing between Canada and the United States, and especially of late, owing to reduced rates of duties upon foreign imports into the colony. During ten years ending 1841, the exports of the United States to the British American colonies are stated to have amounted to above £40,600,000 colonial currency- each of the years 1840 and 1841 presenting amounts exceeding £6,000,000. Among the articles imported by Canada from the United States are, unbleached cotton shirtings, cotton yarn, low-priced printed cotton cloth, shoes, leather, sugars, teas, rice, raisins, currants, oranges, and lemons ; also tobacco, and certain descriptions of hardware, chiefly edge tools, saws, and axes. Besides these imports from the United States, Canada re- ceives wines, spirits, cordials, sugars, molasses, coflfee, and salt, from France, the British and foreign West Indies, and Spain, Portugal, and Sicily. In 1841 the colony imported from Cuba 1,159,777 lbs. sugar, 7500 gallons of rum, and 4700 gal- lons of molasses. The other North American colonies are also employed by Canada in carrying on an indirect trade witii other countries for the colony, chiefly in wines, spirits, sugars', teas, and co£fee. By this trade, in 1841, Canada received 4700 gallons of wines and spirits (chiefly Spanish and Fayal wines), 1,754,488 lbs. foreign IMuscovado sugar, 16,000 lbs. of the same description from British possessions, 42,000 lbs. fo- reign cofl^ee, and 15,700 lbs. teas. One main design of these statements, here introduced in an imperfect and hasty manner, is, that they might aflbrd to the general reader some materials for judging, that both na- A. BANKS, AND AMOUNT OF CIRCULATION NOTE. 2'2l lardware 1 may be ?ars, and ack; but the other esources, has been especially 1 imports e exports are stated jrrency— exceeding lada from rs, cotton ;r, sugars, tobacco, )ols, saws, !anada rc- joflfee, and indies, and )orted from 1 4700 gal- ies are also trade with its, sugars, la received and Fayal 16,000 lbs. ,000 lbs. fo- luced in an EFord to the t both na- tural resources and personal comforts of no inconsiderable amount must be possessed by the country, when, taking into account its population, such statements can be presented re- specting it. The circulation of paper money in the shape of bank-notes, issued by seven banks in Canada, was, in 1842, £781,614 colonial currency. The paid up capital of three of these banks (the Bank of Upper Canada, the Commercial Bank, Mid- land district, and the Bank of Montreal) amounted to above £976,000. It would have been an interesting subject to have touched upon the prospects of the partially known and undeveloped re- sources of Canada ; but having already exceeded the space originally prescribed, we must now give place to other views of the condition of the colony. • '-'i:./ .;■ ■ . NOTE. Statistics of British Shipping. Return printed by the House of Commons June 26, 1844, showing the number of ships, with amount of tonnage, entered inwards, and cleared outwards, at British ports, to and from the under-mentioned countries, during the year ending 6th January 1844. British Ships. Countries. Entered Inwards. Cleared Outwards. Ships. Tonnage. Ships. Tonnage. British North American Colonies, . West Indies, East Indies, United States, 2,215 758 393 352 771,905 206,290 192,381 200,781 1,996 897 335 419 710,608 253,698 156,368 246,026 Foreign Ships. .• m United States, : 715 396,109 717 396,237 &'■ 222 STATEMENT OF THE Loans to Incorporated Companies and to Commissioners for Turnpike Roads, viz. :— Roads, Cant Ja West, Roads, Canaia East, Erie and Ontario Railroad, . Harbours, Canada West, . Dei^ardins Canal, . Urand River and Tay Navigation, Grantham Academy, Provincial Works : — Welland Canal, Baint Lawrence Canal, Trent Navigation, Inland Waters, Newcastle District Port Stanley Harbour, Bridges, Canada West, . Road, Garafraxa, to Owen Sound, New Brunswick Road, Kingston Penitentiary, Kingston Hospital, Parliament Buildings, Toronto, Toronto Harbour, West Guilliambury Road and Bridge, Saint Anne's Rapids Harbour of Montreal, Chambly Canal Steam Dredge, Montreal, Thos. Wilson and Co., London, for this sum owing the Province, Debts due by Public Accountants : — Collectors of Customs, Commissioner of Crown Lands, Outstanding Bonds, Montreal, Quebec, and St Johns, Receiver-General Dunn, Balance due him for Special Funds, Civil List, Schedule A [of Union Act], Advance for 1842, . . Civil List, Schedule A, Advance for 1841, Territorial Revenue Special Account, being debt due to the Clergy Fund for Land Rights, Board of Works, to be accounted for, £ t' d. 239,701 ^ 1,614 16 11 6,614 1 8 12,011 2 9 22.416 14 3 2,049 17 1 318 2 7 402,856 18 10 440,097 11 23,354 11 7 21,660 7,600 12,600 2,600 2,600 44,198 16 1 3,000 5,000 6,200 Re» 965 3 6 4,308 16 4i 87,175 36,000 i;500 £ t' d. 283,524 14 IH 1,159,306 16 3i 66,040 1 103,204 8 3^ 40,019 5 11 191 15 6i 856 17 6i 15,661 8 11 1,337 2 5 1,670,142 10 iUil ♦ This statement, slightly abridged from the one drawn up by the In- spector-General of Canada, and presented by him to the Legislati^-e Assem- bly during the session of 1842, being the second session of the first Parlia- ment of United Canada — is taken from the journals printed by order of the Assembly. It presents the state of affairs of Canada on 31st Dec. 1841, fl2d AFFAIRS OF CANADA.* £ t. d. ,524 14 IH 9,306 16 3i G,040 1 3,204 8 3^ 0,019 5 11 191 15 6i 856 17 6i 5,661 8 11 1,337 2 5 r0.142 10 ly)k\ ip by the In- ilati"e Assem- } first Parlia- d by order of St Pec. 1841, Public Debt :— £ #. d. £ t. d. Stg.Debentures, int. payable atGlynn, MiU8,IIaUfax&Co., £400,000 dii iii D l'^ Sterling Debentures, in- *k*M*Uf*m*M^ O Av terest payable at Uairing &Co., . £438,850 487,611 2 28/2(51 11 3 Balance due Glynn, Halifax & Co., i Balance due narirg Brothers fie Co., 11,703 8 H Bank of Upper Canada, . 20,000 Gore Bank, 6000 Provincial Debentures, Tip. Canada, 289,544 1 2 Provincial Debentures, Lr. Canada, 123,675 1,411,239 11 10^ Profit on Exchanges, Sold by the Receiver- General, • • • 45,844 19 1 Interest Account, For Int. on Loans "o Public Works, • • 13,008 13 3 Balance due to Public Accountants : — ^ Collectors of Customs, 225 7 51 Inspectors, . . ; 16 9 4 841 16 9} Special Funds : — Clergy Reserve Fund, Canada "West, 18,982 13 11 1 Clergy Reserve Fund, Canada East, 311 9 1 Clergy Revenue Fund, 11,606 19 7 Jesuits' Estate Fund, 23,502 1 5 School Land Fund, 2,0.55 5 8 Trinity Fund, Quebec, . 2,215 16 n Trinity Fund, Montreal, . 645 10 Tonnage Duty Revenue, . 616 2 Lunatic Asylum Fund, . 1,577 6 9 ^k4 ^"M #« *■ t\» Consolidated Revenue Fund, 61,513 6 2t For Balance of that account. • • 73,280 16 2f Civil List,Sched. B, 1841 [of UnionAct], ^ tf>01 1 O 11 For Balance of that account. • 1,621 13 1^ Receiver- General Dunn, Balance per his Account f current, sterling, . £2525 17 ) Warrants issued for the service of 1811, and cre- dited him, but unpaid, 59524 8 11 • • 63,33. 15 4i X56998 11 11 1,670,142 10 lOi The amounts are in colonial currency : one pound of which currency is equal to 16s. 5d. sterling, as at present estimated ; and one pound sterling is equal to 24s. 4d. colonial currency. As has been before stated, the rule to re- duce this currency to sterling is to multiply by 60 and divide by 73 ; and to convert sterling into currency, add l-5th to the sterling amount, and l-12th to the l-5th. 224 DEBT AND PUBLIC WORKS OP CANADA. n ' : hi w ■V I ri». J IH it: EXPLANATORY REMARKS ON STATEMENT OF AFFAIRB. The preceding statement of the affairs of Canada sbowH, that on 3lBt December 1841, the colony stood indebted to sun- dry creditors resident in England and Canada for an amount of £1,411,239 colonial currency, or about £l,15i:,«i90 ster- ling. A In ost the whole amount of this debt has been contracted for executing public works within the co- lony, chiefly canals, harbours, roads, and bridges. The left columns of the statement show the description of works upon which these funds have been employed in executing. The total amount thus expended, as shown by the statement, is £1,442,830 colonial currency, of which £283,524 is invested in the shape of loans for executing and upholding works under the management of Commissioners and Incorporated Compa- nies. The remaining sura of £1,159,306 appears to be ex- pended on * Provincial Works,' a class under the more direct control of the Provincial Government. The well organized department of the Executive recently established, known as the Board of "Works, has the direct control and management of these provincial works, and this new management promises to be of great advantage to Canada. Those public works, such as roads and bridges, which continue under the management of local commissioners, will most likely, in course of time, be transferred to thia public board; their revenues may then be paid directly to the Receiver-General of the colony, and amounts required for maintenance of the works (after the estimates being approved of and ordered by the Executive) be issued by of- ficial warrant. The roads above stated under local commissionership are chiefly either macadamised or planked ; and the revenues are collected by means of toll gates. The rate of tolls upon these roads varies from about Id, to 2d. per mile for a waggon drawn by two horses. Where the road is principally macadamised the tolls seem to be highest, and lowest where plank has been employed as the material instead of stone. A portion of the ROADS AND CANALS. 225 FAIRF. I sbowfl, i to 8un- , amount $90 ster- las been the co- The left orks upon ng. The ement, i» i invested irks under d Compa- to be ex- lore direct organized known as igement of romises to orks, such Igement of f time, be ly then be id amounts lates being ued by of- lership are venues are upon these rgon drawn icadamised ik has been tion of the main province road leading around the shores of Lake Ontario, extending to fourteen and a-quartor miles, which was maca- damised, appears to have cost £30,000 currency, or above £2000 per mile, and an extent of nine miles of the same line of road, whieh was planked, cost only per mile £550. These planked roads, which have been only recently introduced in Ca- nada, are likely to confer great benefits in opening up the resources of the country by affording cheap and good roads, exceedingly easy to travel upon at all times, and in every kind of weather. They are estimated to wear at least ten years with only partial repairs. The investments in these roads, as well as in most of the other public works of Canada, as may naturally be expected from the progress the colony is making in amount of popula- tion and general prosperity, appear to be steadily rising in value. The tolls upon 38 miles of the main road from Toronto eastward to Kingston, realised in 1840 a nett revenue of £1196, and in 1841 £1441. The road northwards from Toronto to Lake Simcoe, a distance of 36 miles, known as the Yonge Street road, yielded a nett revenue in 1839 of £1638 ; in 1840^ £2167 ; and in 1841, £2315. The more extensive works of canals may not appear at pre- sent to realise similar marked results. It is, however, to be kept in view, that these great works are not only, in a manner, yet creating or calling forth the mean? of traffic, hitherto in a mea- sure discouraged, or held in obstruction by the expenses, delay, and difficulty attending the old inland communication with the sea ; but the new grand line of navigation, which will afford a safe passage for sea-going vessels of more than a thousand miles into the interior of Canada, is as yet incompleted, al- though now very nearly so. Both the Lachine and Welland ca- nals, but especially the latter, are striking instances of this call- ing forth of traffic, by improving the means to market, ana con- sequently the resources of the country. Not many years ago, before the "Welland Canal was in existence, the whole of the 226 WELLAND AND ERIE CANALS CLERGY RESERVES. productH of Canada from the fertile shores of Lake Erie and westward, as well as merchandise destined thither, had to be carried over land for a distance of ten miles, between Lake On- tario and Lake Erie, and attended with heavy expense, delay, and dilTiculty. The Falls of Niagara, with their ridge of massy rock crossing the country on each side, seemed to many to have decreed an insurmountable barrier to navigation. Now, such has been the results of the Wulland Canal, that, in 1841, it afforded an easy, expeditious, and comparatively inexpensive transport, to an amount exceeding 17'2,000 tons of agricultural and other pro- duce, and merchandise. Among the items of this vast amount of traffic were 30,400 barrels of beef and pork, 213,400 barrels of flour, 1,579,900 bushels of wheat, besides several millions of feet of timber, and large quantities of merchandise, and other articles. The tolls on this canal, which in 18'J5 amounted to £5807, in 1838 were £6740, in 1839 £11,757, in 1810 £19,175, and in 1841 they were £20,210 ! This canal has been found to compete successfully with the great Erie Canal belonging to the Americans, and it transports a good deal of the produce of their Far "West. As an illustration of how short-sighted many people are respecting the results of great public undertakings, it may be mentioned that the Erie Canal, which was at one time slightingly spoken of as Govenior Morris's, or De Witt's * big ditch,' transported through it, in 1839, nearly a million and a-half of tons [1,435,713] of produce and merchandise, the estimated value of which was 73,399,764 dollars, or above £14,000,000 sterling ! The class termed Special Funds, shown in the right columns of the statement as receipts of the colony, includes, among others, the amount then in the hands of Government of Clergy Reserve Funds. The sum annually distributed among various reli- gious bodies in Canada, now that this long agitated subject has been so settled, is believed to be between £11,000 and £12,000 sterling — £7200 of which is received by the Church of Eng- land, £2800 by the Church of Scotland, and Presbyterian Sy- EIIVES. JESUITS ESTATES, SCHOOL, AND TRINITY FUNDS. 227 Erie nnd I ad to be Lake On- c, delay, of massy ly to have , such has fforded an port, to an )ther pro- 3t amount 00 barrels nillions of and other lounted to 1 £19,176, n found to onging to produce of hted many ertakings, as at one De Witt's y a million jrchandise, s, or above ht columns iong others, jy Reserve urious reli- subjecthas nd £12,000 rch of Eng- yterian Sy- nods of Canada, and £1500 by the Church of Rome. The Clergy Reserve Lands used until lately to be leased ; but as the Go- vernment experienced difficulty in collecting even ho much as a fourth of the rents (either most probably from the want of due caution in the selection of tenants, or from the general incfli- ciency of the superintending local a[j'«.at8 employed) the system of leasing is believed to be abandoned, and a limited annual portion of the lands now sold at a fixed price. [For particulars regarding the present mode of disposing of Clergy Reserve Lands see page 154.] The Jesuits' Estates Fund, which is shown to have had, in 1841, in the hands of Government, the sum of £23,502 cur- rency, it may be known, comprehends the proceeds of the pro- perty of the late celebrated order of the Jesuits in Canada, which property, on the demise of the last of the order in the colony, Father Cascot, in the year 1800, fell into the possessioi of the British Government. The College of the Jesuits, situ- ated in Quebec— a spacious, and, as once it was considered to be, noble edifice, with its shady trees and garden walks, whence issued the devoted missionaries, who over a space of hundreds of leagues, from the St Lawrence to the Mississippi, spread their faith with dauntless spirit, constancy, and patience, amid suflFerings and privations — is now used as a barrack for sol- diers. The nett revenue of the Jesuits' Estates collected in 184 1 by theCommissioner of Management amounted to £4566 sterling. The School Land Fund is the proceeds of lands set aside by Government for the support of education. The sum annually appropriated by the Legislature of Canada from the proceeds of these lands, for the purposes of common school education, is £50,000. Special grants are besides voted for educational pui-poses. The Trinity Funds consist of monies collected by the Trinity Boards of Quebec and Montreal, for the maintenance of light- houses, superintendence of harbours and of pilots, and other- wise regulating and improving the navigation of tne St Law- rence. > fl ■'•. f:>| ', '*' lil • ■ h P 1 f^'- Uj ", ^ ^<- n 228 PUBLIC HOSPITALS, AND LUNATIC ASYLUM. The Tonnage Duty revenue is collected also both at Quebec and Montreal, and is subject to deductions for the support of an hospital at each of the ports for the medical treatment of sick seamen. The amount collected at Quebec in 1840, leas five per cent, for expenses of collection, was £1684 currency ; and the sum paid into the Marine Hospital there that year was above £2000. The Marine Hospital of Quebec was opened in 1834, and contains accommodation for 360 persons. It measures in length, with the wings, 206 feet, and in depth 100 feet, and the area of the whole premises con- sists of six acres ; the cost exceeded £20,000, The Montreal General Hospital receives every description of indigent sick patients, and administers also out-door relief, and is an in- utitution highly useful. The Lunatic Asylum Fund is appropriated to the support of a temporary lunatic asylum at Toronto, which, having been found unsuitable for the purposes, a permanent one is contem- plated to be erected by the colony. The number of patients in the Toronto Asylum has usually averaged about 36. Since it opened in January 1841 to Septeniber 1842, the number of patients admitted had been 1260. Of these 68, or more than one-half, were natives of Ireland, 36 were natives of England, 8 natives of Scotland, and 11 natives of Canada ; and in the medical officers' returns of the causes of disease, 23 cases, or between a fifth and sixth of the whole, are reported as having arisen from intemperance. . . - . . The Consolidated Revenue Fund, constituting the ordinary income or revenue of Canada, is in the above statement of the colony's affairs credited with £73,280, being the balance or surplus of that account for 1841 ; and this amount is carried to the credit of the accounts of the fund in the statement of income and expenditure for 1842. ' • The schedules A and B of the late imperial act reuniting Canada, respectively debited and credited in the statement of aflfairs, include the list of appropriations granted to the Crown !■ INCOME AND EXPENDITURE OF CANADA. 229 .{■■■ Quebec pport of ment of }40, less irrency ; lat year )ec was for 360 106 feet, ises con- yiontreal ^ent pick is an in- upport of ing been 3 contem- atients in Since it umber of lore than England, id in the cases, or as having " I' i ordinary ent of the alance or is carried tement of ; reuniting itement of the Crown for defraying the expenses of the administration of justice, and of the civil government of Canada, and some explanation of which is given in the remarks appended to the accounts of income and expenditure which follow. INCOME AND EXPENDITURE OF CANADA. The amounts of income and expenditure of the United Pro- vince of Canada for one year, ending 31st December 1842, are here subjoined. These amounts, classified, are taken from the statements of the public accounts of Canada laid before the Provincial Parliament during the session of 1843, by the In- spector-General. The amounts, as in the previous statement, are in provincial currency. INCOME OF CANADA FOR 1842. Heads of Income. Gross Amount. Cost of Collection. Nett Amount. £ s. d. £ s. d. £ s. d. Customs, . 278,im 7 H l.'^,543 15 4t 205,386 11 lOJ Kxcise, 33,9.01 6 y^ 2,0()f> G 3t 31,925 55 Territorial, 51,775 8 2 27,202 12 8 24,i372 15 7 Light-houseand Tonnage duty • • • • 500 16 8 Hank Imposts, , , • ■ 10,277 3 1 Itouts and rrofits of the Seig- niory of Lauzon, 1,589 15 10 3(57 7 9 1,222 8 1 Public Works, . 24,232 13 9 7,802 18 7 10,309 15 2 Militia Commissions, Fines, and Exemptions, , , • • 309 8 H Fines, Forfeitures, & Seizures 3,5G4 9 * • • Less Cfovernor's share, . , , 54R 19 2,938 4J Casual Revenue, 2,820 8 10 30.; 17 10 2,454 11 Incidental Sundries, , , ^ , 5,820 11 5J Saving on Schedule A of Union Act (Civil List), 1841, . , , » • 2,077 12 9 Do. on do. for 1842, • • ^ , 1,090 5 lialance of Consolidated Keve - nuo Fund, 1841, • • la for 1842, 73,280 16 2i Total Income or R evenue of Cana( 438.886 1 ^jf 230 CUSTOMS, EXCISE, AND TERRITORIAL REVENUES. y %6M ,<> i I 3r If REMARKS ON INCOME. The greater part of the amount of customs is collected at the ports of Quebec and Montreal, chiefly arising from an import duty of five per cent, upon British merchandise, and other mode- rate ad valorem duties. The nett amount of customs collected at these ports in 1042 was £217,578, of which £149,491 was collected at Montreal. Forty-five other ports, situated chiefly along the shores of the St Lawrence, and the Lakes Erie, On- tario, and Huron, collected the remainder of £47,800. The collections at those ports of the interior are almost wholly con- fined to duties upon imports from the United States, the duties varying from 5 to 20 per cent. The port of St Johns on the River Richelieu, communicating between Lake Champlain and the St Lawrence below Montreal, collected of the above £47,800, £16,800 ; Toronto, on Lake Ontario, the next high- est, collected £8000 ; Hamilton, at the head of Lake Ontario, £7200 ; Kingston, at the foot of the same lake, £6500. The Excise revenue chiefly arises from duties on distillation and sale of spirituous liquors, auctioneer and hawkers' licenses, and sales by auction. The Territorial revenue principally arises from sales and rents of crown lands, and licenses to cut timber. The re- ceipts by the Commissioner of Crown Lands in 1841 amounted to £28,500. The Hudson's Bay Company pay an annual rent for the Queen's Posts of £1200. Bank imposts consist of duties upon bank issues. The cir- culation of seven banks transacting business in Canada, in- cluding the Bank of British North America, amounted in Sep- tember 1842 to £781,614 provincial currency, in promissory notes, not bearing interest, of one dollar and upwards. The highest circulation was that of the Bank of Montreal, amount- ing to £250,736 ; and the lowest, the Quebec Bank, which was £38,603. The principal public works of Canada are mentioned in the statement of afiairs. In 1841 the revenue from public works was between £3000 and £4000 less than the above revenue of UES. PUBLIC WORKS, POST-OFFICE EXPENDITURE. 231 ;d at the 1 import er mode- collected 491 was d chiefly irie, On- )0. The loUy con- he duties IS on the plain and tie above ext high- ! Ontario, 0. istiilation ' licenses, ales and The re- amounted m annual The cir- mada, in- ed in Sep" )romissory rds. The 1, amount- nk, which )Ded in the blic works revenue of 1842. The Lachine Canal, for avoiding rapids in the St Law- rence above Montreal, yielded in 1841, in tolls, £9200. In 1845 it is estimated by the Board of Works that the whole of the great canals of Canada will be completed, so as to allow sea-going vessels to navigate the interior lakes. The funds to complete those canals and other public works were raised by a loan of £1,500,000, guaranteed by the Home Government. Among the items of the income of Canada, it will be observed that no revenue from the Post-Oftice department appears. By an apparently rather singular arrangement, the Post-Office revenue of Canada is transmitted to England. The amount of this for the year 1840, according to the re- turns made by the Deputy-Postmaster-General, was £54,248 gross, and £l9,G93 nett revenue ; and during that year of 1840 £20,500 was remitted by the Canada Post-Office department to England. For the period of eleven years previous, includ- ing 1840, it appears that the amount of £135,076 of this reve- nue has been sent to England. The inter-colonial postage rates of British North America are oppressively high ; in. cases, such as from Halifaj^ to Hamilton, at the head of Lake Onta- rio, the charge for a single letter is 3s. currency, or 2s. CJ. sterling. Recent improvements introduced the system of weight, instead of charging every enclosure as an additional single letter; but the old high rates, with this modification, are continued. EXPENDITURE OF CANADA FOfl, 1842. Interest on Public Debt, Amount of Schedule A of Union Act) for Governor and administration of justice), Amount of Schedule li of do (Executive officers) , Permanent charges, as per Acts of Canada East, Do. do. Canada West, Do. do. Province of Canada, Incidental payments, 1841, per Acts, Sinking Fund, Charges under estimate of 1842, Total Expenditure of Canada for 1842, Balance at credit of Consolidated Revenue Fund, 3l8t December 1842, Total Revenue, £75,833 1 50,000 33,333 6 8 18,807 7 6 11,231 19 4 31,345 9 4 21,430 14 10 47,299 9 1 70,257 4 6 359,538 12 3 79,347 8 lU 438,886 1 2* '4 232 PUBLIC DEBT, AND LOAN FDR PUBLIC WORKS. ■M .1 '^L.l:W REMARKS ON EXPENDITURE. The public debt of Canada existing previous to the loan of £1,500,000, raised under the guarantee of the Home Go- vernment, it was proposed by the Secretary of Stote for the Colonies, and intimated by the Governor-General, Sir Charles Bagot, to the House of Assembly in September 1842, ' should remain a first charge upon the revenue of Canada, and should be paid off, as it became due, from the produce of the current revenue.' It being contemplated by the Home Government that the credit of Canada would be thus strengthened ^ by the continuance of the priority of this debt, and by the prospect of early repayment, at or before the expiration of the existing bonds.' And that the Colonial Legislature ' thus unencumbered with other obligations, would be enabled to enter into negotia- tions with the creditors of the existing debt, and either to con- tinue durirg the terms of their respective engagements the pre- sent rate of interest, or to extinguish the debt by mutual agree- ment before the period stipulated under the present engage- ment.' Great Britain having thus not only lent her credit for the benefit of Canada in order to raise the loan of £1,500,000, at a rate of interest not exceeding four per cent., to be applied directly to execute the public works, further strengthened the colony by sacrificing her priority of claim upon the reve- nue, and allowed the payment of the loan to become a secon- dary charge. In the conditions of the payment of the new loan, provision was made for a sinking fund, at the rate of not less than five per cent per annum of the principal. The total amounts of public debt of United Canada, at 8th September 1842, as reported by the Receiver-General, were £403,589 colonial currency, at a rate of interest payable in Canada, averaging about six per cent., and £869,050 sterling currency, at five per cent., payable in England. The schedules designated A and B of the Imperial Union Act, include an annual and permanent appropriation of cs. EXPENSES OF CIVIL GOVERNMENT. 233 the loan ome Go- for the Charles ' should id should e current vcrnment I ^ by the rospect of ! existing cumbered negotia- er to cen- ts the pre- :ualagree- it engage- r credit for 1,500,000, be applied :engthened 1 the reve- \e a secon- ; new loan, of not less a,da, at 8 th iieral, were payable in 50 sterling ^rial Union priation oT £46,000 sterling of the revenues of Canada for salaries and pensions to the judges, and other expenses of the judicial esta* blishment ; and £30,000 of an annual appropriation during her Majesty's reign, and five years thereafter, to defray a civil list, and certain expenses of the civil government. The people of Canada have, through their representatives, expressed some degree of dissatisfaction with the exact nature of these condi- tions. They seem to desire that the allowedly high salaries upon the civil list should be reduced, and also the general ex- penses in all departments of the civil government, on a scale more corresponding, as they would suppose, to the resources and liabilities of the country. And, upon these desired reduc- tions being made, they would seem not to object to a permanent appropriation for the salaries of the Governor and his private Secretary, with expenses of his office, and for the salaries of judges, and other necessary charges of the administration of justice ; and to an appropriation for a reduced civil list to con- tinue, if not by vote from year to year, during her Majesty's reigny agreeable to the present usage of the Imperial Parlia- ment. As such desires appear reasonable, it is very probable that arrangements may be made for carrying them into effect. The present condition of Canada, under a heavy debt, con- tracted in praiseworthy enterprise in order to develope her re- sources, requires that economy in expenditure be studiously kept in view. Among the items of the present civil list of Canada, a sum above £10,000 is appropriated for the salaries of the Governor and Lieut.-Governor, and the Governor's Secretary, and con- tingencies of their offices. Two Chief Justices and eleven Judges have respectively £1500 and £900 each, and one other Chief Justice has £1 100. The appropriation for Attorneys and Solicitors-General, and for their clerks, is £4620, and for Pro- vincial Secretaries and their offices, £4640. The Executive Council have an appropriation of £3450, and the members com- posing this body have appropriations besides, as heads of de- Q 234 DETAILS OF EXPENDITURE. _ 5* ' -i 'i H '■;.'". J. partments. The Inspector-General of Public Accounts, one of the Executive, has an appropriation, including expenses of his office, of £2598. , Besides the expenses of the Government provided for in sche- dules of the Union Act, there are the other charges mentioned in the statement of expenditure, as being authorised hy acts of the formerly distinct legislatures of Lower and Upper Canada, and the now united legislature of the province of Canada. The details of the estimate of expenditure for 1842 present above £17,000 set aside as salaries of the officers, and other expenses of the legislatures, of which amount £3500 is for the allow- ance of pay to Members of Assembly during session. The pensions to officers and servants of the old legislatures amount to the small sum of £328. The schedules of the Union Act secure above £5000 for pensions to judges and others. The principle of pensions is understood not to be generally approved of in the colony. In the same estimates an amount of £5396 is set aside for the promotion of education, in addition to the ordinary annual grant of £50,000 ; of this £5396 Up- per Canada College is granted £1000, and Queen's and Vic- toria Colleges £450 each. A further sum of nearly £2000 is appropriated to various public institutions and agricultural societies, of which M'Gill College, Montreal, is granted £900. An appropriation of £10,800 is granted to charitable purposes ; among which are the Toronto and Montreal General Hospi- tals, the Lunatic Asylums at Montreal and Toronto, and the Commissioners for the relief of insane persons, foundlings, and indigent sick persons in the districts of Quebec and Montreal. Among the miscellaneous estimates, exceeding £16,000, £1500 is appropriated to the Quarantine establishments at Quebec and Giosse Isle. A very large item under this head of 'miscella- neous' is the charge of £6800 for printing, translating, and pub- lishing the acts and proceedings of the session of 1841, of which sum nearly £5000 is for printing alone. For the year 1842 the estimate of £3000 is set aside for printing public acts, and other matter, and £250 for distributing the same. VI KW OF THE PRESENT STATE OF CANADA. 235 lilts, one jxpenses in sche- icntioned y acts of Canada, da. The mt above expenses he allow- on. The IS amount Jnion Act iTS. The approved of £5396 ddition to 5396 Up- I and Vic- rly £2000 ^ricultural ited£900. purposes ; ral Hospi- 0, and the llings, and Montreal. )00,£1500 Quebec and ' miscella- g, and pub- 1, of which ar 1842 the acts, and The statement of income and expenditure here presented, though sufficient for general purposes, does not, it may be men- tioned, in several respects, show a fair account of ordinary ex- penses and revenue, owing chiefly to the then still unsettled state of affairs, arising from the arrai gement of the union of the provinces. The estimates of expenditure and revenue for 1842, calculated in September that year, presented £332,800 currency, or £299,620 sterling, as the probable expenditure, and £391,661 currency, or £352,494, as the probable revenue of Canada, The expenditure included nearly £12,000 as ex- penses of rural police and stipendiary magistrates in Lower Canada for that year. VIEWS OF THE PRESENT STATE AND PROSPECTS OF CANADA. Estimating in a general manner the present state of Ca- nada, the view presented is very similar in many respects to that which Scotland presented previous to the spread of those improvements in agriculture and internal economy which fol- lowed the union with England, and the establishment of the Highland Society, and the National Board of Agriculture. Conspicuous among the features of similarity are rude modes of agriculture prevailing throughout the colony— defective in- telligence, skill, enterprise, and command of capital among the majority of farmers; the lesser and not unfrequently sub- stantial comforts and conveniences in the construction and care of dwelling-houses and out^houses generally neglected ; social intercourse and communication with markets greatly inter- rupted by the want of proper roads and bridges ; and there are the train of other drawbacks which may be imagined naturally to follow such a state of things, more especially in a country as yet thinly populated, and burdened with high rates of labour and low prices of produce. This general view, however, it is ^'easing to remark, has been during late years gradually uu- I m lis mi 236 IMPROVING PROSPKt'TS OV THE COLONt. dergoing a change to the better. Influences similar to those which wrought improvement in Scotland are now begun to exert themselves in the colony. Among these are improved intercourse with the intelligence and enterprise of the mother- country, the greater diflfusion of general and professional read- ing resulting from this, the establishment of agricultural asso- ciations, the improvements of roads and canals, and the recent fa- cilities afforded to commerce ; and not least, the friendly spirit manifested towards the colony by the home-country in the ex- pressed desire of those at the head of affairs, to cultivate more closely the bond of connection, by extending to the colonists as large a share of advantai^es as is possible, and naturally right to be possessed by brother inhabitants of the same em- pire — separated only from the great centre by space, and for the common welfare. The growing interest shot^rn throughout the mother-country towards its most important and rapidly rising colony — as is proved by the amount of emigration annually flowing to it, and the consequent ties of friendship thereby arising further to ex- tend the interest — would perhaps warrant, even were there no other considerations, some matters of detail affecting the prospects of Canada being glanced at in such a manner as might possibly tend in some measure., however indirectly, to accelerate its progress, or deepen the interest in its prosperity and ultimate destiny. Here, at present, however, as part of this brief chapter, and as followingup the preceding imperfect notices respecting the state of afl'airs of the colony, little more than mere allusion will be made to a few of the more prominent con- siderations afl'ecting its condition and prospects. First, in regard to the management of its affairs : it appears to be of chief importance to the comparatively young colony that the strictest economy in expenditure should be observed. This desire to economise, it is gratifying to know, was gene- rally expressed in the proceedings of the Colonial Legislature during the session of 1843 ; and, from all appearances, itis most likely that arrangements will be effected for reducing the IMPROVEMENT OK ROADS. 237 o those :gun to iproved mother- al read- al asso- ecent fe- ly spirit the ex- ite more colonists aaturally lame em- idfor the r-oountry ly — as is to it, and her to ex- rere there eeting the nanner as lirectly, to jperityand art of this ect notices more than ainent con- : it appears mng colony le observed. , was gene- Legislature 38, it is most 2ducing the amount of the heavy civil list of the colony. Next in import- ance appears to be a steady attention being observed towards judiciously and economically developing the resources of the country, which, since the great canals are now all but com- pleted, would seem to be best accomplished, for some time to come at least, by means of affording good roads. At present large portions of inland territory, comprising the most fertile land of the colony, are in a great measure locked out from markets by the worst description of roads. Here, also, as in the matter of public expenditure, gratifying signs of the future pre- sent themselves. The establishment of the Board of Works, and the comparative success of plank roads, and not least, the degree of attention and lively interest which the present Go- vernor-General bestows on the subject, are all alike prominent and hopeful evidences of something being done in a matter so vitally important to the general prosperity, as are the means of communication through the productive districts of a country. The St Lawrence and other canals have been constructed at great expense, and unless the equally important tributaries of good roads be supplied throughout the country, these grand courses of navigation cannot at all be expected to yield the benefits for which they were designed. Scarcely secondary to good roads seems to be the necessity for active and systematic efiforts being made to improve th^ agriculture of the country. In a country so mainly dependent upon agriculture as Canada is, it must be allowed to be a great drawback that there are no means for its population obtaining any sort of agricultural instruction. No finer field, one might suppose, could be presented to the statesman of enlarged mind and philanthropic desires than the one wherein he could, by the exercise of judgment and energy, plan and put into ope- ration a course of means whereby the productive resources of an important colony might be at least doubled, and it made besides more than doubly inviting to the much wanted and superabundant population and capital of the mother-country. Among the most prominent means for so desirable an end 238 IMPROVKMENT OF AGRICULTURE. ' ■? ■ it • t I m^' V ] b ■ ; i ■' :1m_ ri 1 -■■--.,.=.1 . 1 ■ ,) ^''t ; % ■ r.i A |i r^&^'!i i *!' ':-,'{■ ::-i 11 W lHyi L '^H'l would seem to be — beginning at the foundation — causing in- struction iu the science and art of agriculture to form a branch of education in the common Rchools, the district or higlier Bchools, and in tlie colleges. Model and experimental farms might be established, say in each district or county, where first lessons and principles being fully carried out into the best modes of practice, under proper directors such establishments would be constantly furnishing the country with a supply of skilled agriculturists ; and, besides the consideration of ad- vancing the intelligence and standing of the agricultural body generally, these pupils, either upon their own or the farms of their parents, would be the means of diffusing more or less widely, practically beneficial results throughout their respective neighbourhoods or spheres of influence. Periodical reports by the directors of these model tablishments, setting forth the modes of practice adopted, anu che results obtained, would like- wise materially further the desired objects, not only in a direct manner to the colony, but by circulating in Britain information of the description which these reports might contain, would, by proving what can be accomplished in Canada, be serving the interests of colony and mother-country, in a manner per- haps the most efficient, as being the most practical that could be designed. Such establishments might also further be made to serve the purpose of Normal Schools for the instruction of teachers. Agricultural societies and farmers* clubs form already part of the means of agricultural improvement in Canada; and it is gratifying to observe that such associations have made consi- derable progress, more especially within the last four or five years. A general and central association for the whole pro- vince, upon the model of the Highland Society of Scotland or Royal Agricultural Society of England, would appear to be alone wanting to complete this branch of the course of means. Attention having been directed to this want through the me- dium of the intelligent agricultural writings, which, although recently supplied within the colony, have already been of so much ' POLITICAL AFFAIRS. 239 iig in- )ranch higher farms where le best ihments pply of of ad- al body arms of or less spective ports by orth the uld like- a direct >rmation 1, would, ! serving kner per- lat could be made action of ady part and it is ,de consi- r or five liole pro- jtland or 3ar to be )f means. I the me- although if so much benefit in other respects — it may warrantably be expected, tak- ing into account the growing spirit of inquiry aud enterprise, that this material part of the means at least will not long be wanting. The recent reduction of duties upon the importation into Britain of the chief articles of colonial produce, hnH, as might naturally be supposed, greatly stimulated the desires of the colony for agricultural advancement. And the colonists have already gained much upon which to rest, as encourage- ment and hopeful promise, for continued exertions. Canada of even ten years ago is in many material respects a very different country from Canada as it now is — so much has the tide of British emigration, rapid growth, and other circumstances, tended to make it more home-like, more particularly in the social aspects of its towns and older settlements, and, in many gratifying instances, in the improved modes and spirit introduced in agricultural management. The uneasy aspect which from time to time the colony as- sumes in political matters, may be considered to be not among the least of the drawbacks to its prosperity. The cause of this may perhaps, in a great measure, be traced to the imperfect knowledge possessed by Britain of the actual state, interests, and wants of her colonies, and a proportionate defect of sympathy and understanding, resulting frequently in the jarring of colo- nial with imperial courses of action, are the consequences. The want of more comprehensive and detailed information concern- ing our colonies is one severely experienced by both colony and mother-country, and operates in most important respects to their common disadvantage. The frequeni change of governors, and, in instances, the unsuitableness of appointments, have been chief sources of the political troubles of Canada. Within the eighty years which have passed, since the colony came un- der British government, there have been above thirty governors, being, on an average, not three years to each — a period barely sufficient for the individual, however well endowed, to qualify himself properly, in order to discharge safely — with honour to 1 iBk 1 ! 1 ■ ■■ i ;'V ■ 1 "11 } ^ ] '"^PT > »' ! .1 2. ii- • '^ •1 s. I 240 PLAN OF COLONIAL REPRESENTATION. himself, and with advantage to colony and empire — the import- ant f\inctions with which he is intrusted. The increase of duties, and consequent responsibilities, which have fallen upon the Colonial-Office, with the growth, in number and importance, of our colonics during these past years, would seem to form another chief hindrance to Britain satisfactorily cultivating colonial connection. It would, perhaps, be well, for the pur- pose of relieving the colonial Minister of some share of respon- sibility, as also to secure other important objects — that the colonies, or a particular class of them, should be called upon to send each a limited number of representatives or commis- sioners to Britain, who, as well to the Government as to the people of Britain, would be found greatly serviceable as re- sponsible authorities in communicating information, and by thus serving most important common objects, such a measure appears further to recommend itself by its being calculated to cement closer the bonds of relationship between colony and empire. The better to secure such objects, these colonial representa- tives might be allowed seats in the Imperial Parliament. It would be difficult for misgovemment, or any serious misunder- standing, or conflict between colonial and imperial interests, to exist for any very inconvenient time under such an arrange- ment — not to speak of the other advantages which might be dwelt upon, as most likely to be among the results. Among lesser measures for the common benefit of the colony and the home-country, the management of the Post-Office de- partment, as respects the regulations and charges for the con- veyance of correspondence, is one universally allowed to be of great importance. The improvement introduced within these last five years of conveying the North American mails by means of steam-packets, attended by the reduction of rates, and other facilities, has, it is believed, been of marked benefit to Canada. The increased correspondence between the colony and Britain has very materially furthered emigration. The annual report of the Government Emigrant Agent at Quebec for 1843, re- COLONIAL POST-Ol'FKK DKPARTMENT. 241 iiport- ase of upon Irtance, form ivating e pur- [respon- at the d upon sommis- to the as re- and by measure Llatcd to my and )resenta< lent. It lisunder- srests, to airange- uight be le colony )fficede- the con- . to be of lin these ^y means ,nd other Canada. I Britain al report [843, re- cordt* as a remarkable fact of the emigration of that yonr, that of the number of 21,727 emigrants, wlio arrived at (iueboc from Britain , no fewer tlian three-fourths came out to tlieir relations.* This large proportion, in the greater number of cases, it may be presumed, received invitations, with information and advice from their friends through tiio medium of the Post-Office — a fact fruitful of suggestions in otlier respects, bearing on the im- portant subject of emigration. What I would desire to sug- gest at present is, that the rates of postage upon letters between Canada and Britain undergo further modification. From the success of the experiment of cheap postage in Britain, the sup- position may be hazarded that the present rate of Is. 2d. sterecomd s indif- redomi- readily Ullages, ce, and and the it has truthful so much substan- uite new is essen- erely ex- luld say, IS feeling necessary great evil id mostly, of Scot- t abilities 3 is, with- m the in- 1 are ex- ement the self in the itters has mowledge nies. We ndish and he case is been that, should be li occupied Lvate evils. With the gi-eater diffusion of accurate information respecting Canada, and vv^ith the increase of emigration, we may expect its prospects in this as in other respects materially to brighten. Though such be a general view of the state of churches over the wide stretch of the imperfectly occupied colony, it must not be overlooked that there are numbers of compact settle- ments and prosperous towns presenting a very different pic- ture. There are there settled, in many instances, highly ta- lented and zealous Christian ministers, blessed in flourishing and exemplary congregations. And by choosing such localities the emigrant from home will not experience the drawback he might suppose from want of religious ordinances. Regarding the present state and prospects of education, the reader is referred to the statement and views contained in the Fourth Letter. In now closing these general views of the condition and prospects of this important and rising colony, I would do so with this further remark, suggested by attentive observa- tion, and some degree of personal acquaintance with the wonts, desires, and feelings of the colonists — that Great Bri- tain, in order to perpetuate, for a very lengthened period at least, an honourable, and, all things properly considered, de- sirable connection on both sides, she need only continue to evince still further and closer attention to the interests of the colony — not timorously stinting the colonists in the exercise of political privileges, which cannot affect the bond of connection — extending every practicable facility to their commerce and general intercourse with us at home — doing all that is possible to disseminate con*f><>t information regarding the colony, and thus encourage, by means the most natural and safe, the most so'-.nd and healthy emigration : By such attentions the already undoubted loyalty and affection of the colonists will be still further strengthened ; the colony may be expected to grow up in vigour, with honour and ;jdvantage to the empire, thus extimd- jiig and displaying to tl;e world tlie blessings of her institu- tions, and receiving the affections aud perfect alliance of a people Ki 1^ ml' f^;v. r ai V V 1 rej ; :i 1 iff . i , 1 24G VIEWS ON EMIGRATION. }t ':: destined to become, at no very distant time, powerful and in- jduential. VIEWS ON EMIGRATION. Upon no subject of equal importance, and upon which so much has been written, have views less practical, perhaps, been brought to bear than upon this undoubtedly very important and apparently little understood one of emigration. All that is intended to be ooserved here will be the most practical considerations (to the best of the writer's judgment), and which have been suggested by closest and most practical in- quiries and observations during a residence in tlie colony to which the remarks particularly apply. I would first observe, as a fundamental principle, that colonies appear to be as much, and of necessity, governed by the laws of demand and supply iu regard to the amounts of the various descriptions of popula- tion required, as are individuals, companies, or communities in their ordinary transactions ; and any departure from those laws inflict injury as much in the one case as in the otlier. Grand schemes of emigration, conducted in the present state of our information with regard to our colonies, it is believed, would most probably present similar disheartening results, which grand schemes of otner shipments would, which had not been ' ordered,' or had been sent without full acquaintance with the particular necessities or demands of the country. Tl'c paupers ' shovelled' out from England, and thrown under the rock of Quebec in ignorance or disregard of the wants of the colony, or fitness of the individuals to be proper colonists ; the hand-loom weavers of the west of Scotland, unfitted, the n;.i,- jority of them, to supply the wants of Canada, yet flocking out in ship-loads to Quebec, and forwarded to the upper country at Government expense — in many instances only to experience disappointment, and to be obliged to swell the public factorie?* PLAN TO IMPROVE EMIGRATION. 247 lid iii- ucli so pB, been ant and he most Igment), stical in- olony to observe, as much, supply in [" popula- iinities in om those he other, t state of believed, J results, li had not mce with ;ry. Tl'O jnder the its of the lists ; the , the ni:t- cking out r country xperience : factories of the neighbouring republic : These are cases illustrative of the evils connected with even a very limited emigration, conducted without regard to the principles of demand and supply ; and whicli, if extended as proposed, so as to allow a freer commu- nication with our colonies, would only aggravate evils. The great error lies in supposing that the classes of persons who are overabundant at home, and consequently least wanted, are exactly those most needed by the colony. Broken-spirited pau- pers, hand-loom weavers, and other persons unaccustomed, and frequently quite unfit, lor the kinds of labour in demand by the colony ; as also a description of Irish labourers, who either cannot or will' not work, except upon canals, and who flock out to the United States and to Canada, and are the cause of serious disturbances on account of their large numbers — illus- trate very distinctly that it is more the want of information respecting the exact condition and demands of our colonies that is experienced, than any extension of means to inundate the colonies still more with unsuitable individuals. Were authoritatve, accurate, and minutely exact information extensively and periodically diffused among all classes at home respecting our colonies, this simple plan, it is confidently be- lieved, would, as applied to Canada ut least, answer all the ends desirable in sound colonisation. Nothing is wanted so much as this description of information, and, until this be sup- plied — even should to-morrow see every war-ship placed at the public disposal, in order to ' bridge' the Atlantic, by affording free passages — it will be in vain that we expect a desirable and prosperous emigration. With such information — which, further to carry out the illustration of supply and demand, would appear at home, in the market of supply, much in the light of a particular order or demand from the colony for cer- tain amounts and descriptions of population— we might liope to see the present annual amount of emigration at least doubled, and the individuals composing it more suitable to the exact wants of the colony. And without fiuch attention to meet the exact nature of a colony's dcnuiuds, colonisation can uovev be t'' V' ^ HI ; ':■■■ ^ 4 V 5'^^ 'r 248 SUGGESTIONS OF DETAIL. expected to yield the full advantages it is calculated to do either to individuals or the colonies. The manner in which valuable information could be collected in Canada for use at home, might be suggested to be partly through the means of the present arrangements for taking the annual census, and partly through the means of new arrange- ments to be provided by the several districts. Accurate descrip- tions of the districts mightbe drawn up, somewhat in the manner of the statistical account of Scotland drawn up by the parish clergy, but more detailed in several respects, so as to present, for instance, the numbers of persons employed in agriculture, the various trades, with the rates of remuneration — the probable demand, and general encouragement, or otherwise, for parti- cular descriptions of persons — in short, such information as the various classes of persons would themselves direct their atten- tion to, were they to proceed to the spot for such a purpose. Each district account might be accompanied with a map, which would be all the more useful were it to present the varieties of soils, the lands occupied and unoccupied, cultivated and unculti vated — and those for sale, whether Crown, company, or private lands, with references as to price and terms. Accounts, with il- lustrative maps, such as these of every district might be made, with annual corrections or supplementary reports, circulated extensively throughout England, Scotland, and Ireland — would very greatly promote the interests of the colony, and meet what is so much wanted in Britain, in order to guide the numbers of persons whose circumstances would be improved by emigration, but who, because of the deficiency and uncertainty of informa- tion, will not run any hazard of failure, so long as there is hope at all left of their making shift in their present circumstances. Those accounts or reports might be made more uniform, and more generally useful, were they to be collected and compiled under the direction of a Board of Emigration to be established in the colony, of which the chief Government Emigrant Agents would be membf ra, and the president, perhaps, a member of the Colonial Executive. This Board could have powers to re- ." 1)11' FUSION OF INFORMATION IN BRITAIN. 240 to do oUected |e partly :ing the rrange- descrip- manner e parish sent, for ture, the probable ■or parti- ion as the eir atten- , purpose, ap, which arieties of d unculti- or private ;s, with il- t be made, circulated id — would meet what mmbers of migration, f informa- 3re is hope iimstances. iform, and i compiled established mt Agents member of wers to re- vise, candense, and publish, and also to prepare a summary or genera' report for the whole colony. A member of this Board, or other individual well acvitli some unpleawant sensations of part or complete Hea-sickness — those fears usually turn out rather agreeably to have very little real foundation. The period recommended for sailing to Canada is that dur- ing which the early spring slilps depart ; the greatest number of vessels usually commence the voyage from the 1st to the l.^jtli of April, and the next greatest number during the latter part of that month. The first vessels from sea generally ar- rive at Montreal about the middle of May. With regard to the spare funds, which the intending travel- ler may have available to take with him to Canada, it would be advisable for him to lodge such in mnm safe bank at horiio before he leaves ; and when he arrives in Canada, he can draw for this money as he require> it. This plan combines both safety and convenience, besides some little gain resulting from the difference of exchange, which is always against the colony, and in favour of Britain. Persons desirous of obtaining information upon particular points previous to embarking for Canada, are invited to com- municate with the Colonial Lanmmissioner8, from time to time, to make public any authentic information which they may receive on matters connected with the ettlement of waste lands in the colonies, and ali'ecting the interest of any description of per- sons, who propose to settb' there. They likewise answer all application ^^ from individuals, and afford them, so far as may bo in their power, such information as may be adapted for their particular cases. The office of the Commissioners is at No. .0 i ark Street, Westminster, and all comniunicatiops 'ould bo addressed to the Secretary, Stei)hen Walcott, Es(j.' ^, '^.^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^>* .V4fe 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■ 50 ^^" Li ■ 25 L£ 12.0 1.4 III 1.8 1.6 V] vl W 4W % -^ '/ Sdoices Corporation '^j'^y. ''^:^'^ 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 * 'i' !':■ ' I- « ,\ ' f^] ' . '■'■yf-,' ' J V' ■ \ ; i 1 254 THE PASSAGES BY QUEBEC AND NEW YOUK, CHOICE OF A VESSEL. It will readily be allowed that it is of first importance t«> the voyager to be enabled to select a good sea-worthy vessel, well manned and equipped, and in the charge of a captain on whom reliance can be placed as an experienced seaman, sober in his habits, and of general good character and disposition. It may not be an easy matter frequently to find all these requi- sites combined ; but the want of any of them will be found to diminish, in some degree, the comfort of the voyager, who during several weeks has his home upon the waters. The best vessels sailing, to America are believed to be those from Liverpool, London, and the Clyde. Respecting the choice of the New York or Quebec passage, this nvuch may be said, that the latter is most advisable, when a good vessel is to be had, for persons proceeding to Lower Canada, and to those pro- ceeding to any part of Canada whose funds are limited, or who desire to see as much of Canada as possible, and to obtain use- ful information and advice upon landing from the Government Emigrant Agents. The New York route, on the other hand, is usually preferred by persons proceeding to Upper Canada in more easy circumstances than the poorer class of emigrants, as it is believed to be upon the whole most agreeable, the shortest, and perhaps the safest, and offering greatest choice of first-class vessels. It is attended with little, if any difference of expense, to those choosing the most comfortable description, or even se- cond-class accommodation ; but there is this drawback upon landing at New York, that persons are more liable to be mis- led by false information of designing individuals, and frequently by downright impostors, than guided by the friendly informa- tion afforded at Quebec gratuitously by Government. Should the traveller bound for Cahada. make choice of the New York route, the greatest choice of best vessels will be found at Liverpool. United States vessels are experienced to be good sailers, and generally very well managed. Strict dis- *:r GOVERNMENT PROTECTION TO EMIGRANTS. 355 cipline is observed among the seamen by the captain and offi- cers, and gener£:lly great sobriety. And all these are very ma- terial points ; for it is believed to be established that most of the disasters at sea are to be attributed, not so much to bad vessels or pure accident, as to causes blameable in those hav- ing the management. Among those causes are deficiency of hands, carelessness in the duty of the seamen in not keeping a proper outlook or vratch, especially in hazy or dark weather, and near a coast, and in a great number of instances, and in- deed a leading cause, is intemperance ; and I regret to have in truth to add, that among the shipmasters of our own country this disgusting vice exists to a most lamentable and very un- safe extent. The traveller who intends proceeding to Cana-da by the St Lawrence will find excellent vessels leaving the Clyde among the regular traders to Montreal. The Clyde, being on the west coast, is the best part of Scotland to select for departure for America. Parties, whose nearest ports would be Leith or Aberdeen, cannot always, however, find it convenient to incur the expense and extra trouble of travelling by steam or other conveyance to Glasgow or Greenock with their luggage, for the sake of avoiding the more lengthened sail and tedious passage along the east and around the north coast of Scotland; but wherever it can be easily done, it is desirable on several accounts. Persons sailing from ports at which Government Emigration Agents are established, have the advantages of being guided by the experience of those officers in the choice of a vessel, and of having every description of necessary information gratuitously provided — such as regarding the sea-worthiness of passenger ships, the periods of sailing, and means of accommodation, suf- ficiency of provisions, water, and medicines they have on board. The Passengers' Act, which it is the duty of those officers to enforce, is very particular in protecting passengers from annoy- ance and inconvenience arising from the want of punctuality in the sailing of vessels, the nou-fulfilment of bargains with ship- I:> li -r H li;- Jt, ;; ■I .!•■ 350 PASSENGERS ACT EMIGRATION AGENTS. masters or brokers, and for ensuring the comfort of passengers during the voyage. Its chief provisions consist in limiting the number of passengers to be carried by each ship, three persons being only allowed to every five tons burthen ; and whatever be the tonnage, only one passenger to every ten superficial feet of the space between decks appointed for passengers, and the height of such space to be not less than five feet, and not having more than two tiers of berths, and also regulating the size of each berth ; also requiring that parties contracting to find pas- sages to give written receipts in a prescribed form, and that no person except owner or master of the ship, or brokers regu- larly licensed, and acting under written authority from princi- pals to act as agents, be recognised as empowered to contract with parties for passages; in cases of non-fulfilment of contracts on the part of the shipper, parties to be maintained at the con- tractor's expense, and provided, witliin a reasonable time, with a passage to the place of destination, under a penalty recover- able by summary process before two Justices of the Peace ; pas- sengers during detention of ships to be victualled by the ship, and if detention exceed two working days, except caused by wind or weather, to receive 1 s. per day, unless satisfactorily lodged and maintained. Among other provisions, passengers cannot be landed against their consent at any other place than the one contracted for ; and after their arrival at such place, they are to be maintained for 48 hours on board, un- less the ship in the prosecution of her voyage quits the port sooner. The act extends to foreign as well as to British ships, but not to vessels carrying fewer than 30 passengers, nor to cabin passengers. Two copies of the act require to be kept on board every ship to which it applies, and to be produced to passengers on demand. The Government Emigration Agents stationed in Scotland are Lieut. Forrest, R.N., Glasgow,* and Lieut. Hemans, R.N., Greenock ; those in England, Lieut. Lean, R.N., London 1 ♦ Lieut. Fon'est has only lately been removed from Leith to Glasgow. RATES OF PASSAGliS. 12.^7 sseiigers iting the I persons vhatever Lcial feet and the it having e size of Bnd pas- uid that ;rs regu- Q. princi- contract lontracts the con- me, with recover- ce ; pas- ihe ship, used by actorily ssengers jr place at such ird, un- he port ih ships, nor to kept on uced to Gotland lemans, London isgow. (office, East Smithfield), and Lieut. Henry, R.N., Liverpool (office, 33 Union Street); and those in Ireland, Lieut. lIodder> R.N., Dublin, Lieut. Friend^ R.N., Cork, besides Lieuts. Starke, Shutcleworth, Ramsay, and Mr Lynch, R.N., for the ports re- spectively of Belfast, Sligo, Londonderry, and Limeric^. These Government agents act under the immediate direction of the Emigration Board of Commissioners stationed at London. The rates of steerage passages to Quebec or Montreal vary from £1 to £4 without provisions. The places mentioned in the Government returns as affording passages at the lowest rates, are Liverpool and most of the Irish ports ; in Liverpool the rates are from £1, 10s. to £2, 10s. ; and the rates of the Irish ports are returned as being from £2, 5s. to £3. Greenock, Leith, and London rates are returned as the highest — those at Leith being from £2, 10s. to £3 ; and Greenock, by the best vessels, the regular traders, £3, 10s. ; and by ordinary emigrant ships, less. At London, rates are as high as from £3, 5s. to £4, 5s. Provisions are estimated generally to cost additional, from £1, 10s. to £2, 10s. Intermediate or second-class pas- sages are ordinarily rated to be from 10s. to £2 additional- Cabin passages, with every requisite of bedding and provi- sions, provided in the same style as for the captain, usually range from £10 to £20. The vessels from Leith and the Irish ports are returned as charging lowest for cabin passages, and those of Greenock, Liverpool, and London the highest, the ves- sels from these ports being chiefly of a superior class, and their accommodation and table supphes more comfortable. Children uiider 14 years of age are usually computed at half rates. Regular packet-ships between New York and Liverpool sail on the 1st, 6th, 11th, lGth,21st, and 2Gth of every month from the latter port, and charge about £20 for cabin passage ; and their intermediate and steerage rates are from 5s. to 20s. higher than those of ordinary vessels. American and British vessels sail also occasionally from the Clyde for New York. The rates of passages to New York are much about the same as to Quebec. m w 'M fv' ' !■!• ■»■, 1 1 < ta fr^ Vf '^1 ! ■» • * I (i J • ' V" ' i- ■' K 1 ,■ ) ■ \i . ■5X ' I: I 1 1 ■■^'^, irS- ■II ^av«:i ) pi ■ p:'i ' ^fi^Hi' If: ; A,- |;k 258 GOVERNMENT INFORMATION AT QUEBEC. The Great Westeni steam-ship charges £30 for cabin pas- sage to New York, with £1 additional as steward's fee. This vessel sails from Liverpool usually once a-month, but has no particular days. The line of Royal Mail steam-ships, the Britannia, Caledonia, Hibernia, Acadia, and Cambria, sail- ing between Liverpool and Boston, and touching at Halifax, charge 38 guineas, including provisions, but without wines or liquors, for the passage to Boston or Halifax, and one guinea additional for steward's fee. These vessels sail from April to November inclusive, on the 4th and 10th of every month ; and during the four months, from December to March inclusive, on the 4th only of every month. ARRIVAL AT QUEBEC, AND ROUTES THROUGH THE INTERIOR. The traveller who has made choice of the Quebec passage will experience much satisfaction in having every necessary at- tention shown in affording him information and advice, so far as such may be within the power of the Government Agent. A. C. Buchanan, Esq., son of the highly respected and recently retired British Consul at New York, is appointed by Govern- ment the chief Emigrant Agent for Lower Canada, and stationed at Quebec, for the sole purpose of affording information and advice gratuitously to emigrants. Emigrant ships, upon ar* riving within about 33 miles of Quebec, are boarded by the authorities of the quarantine department. The station is an island of the St Lawrence, named Grosse Isle. A medical officer here examines the ship as to the state of health of those on board, and any persons that may be sick are taken on shore to an hospital. One dollar (say 4s. 2d. sterling) is understood to be at present imposed upon each passenger, the proceeds of which tax is applied for the purpose of affording medical at- I DISEMBARKING, AND JOURNEY ONWARDS. 259 tendance and relief to the sick, and assisting destitute emi- grants to reach the places of their destination. Mr Buchanan being usually apprised of the approach of vessels with emigrants, is in waiting to receive tliem in the river opposite Quebec, and either on board, or at his office. No. 30 Sault-au-]\Iatelot Street, affords all desired information within his power. Emigrants are cautioned against unguard- edly relying upon statements which may be made to them by individuals, who may put themselves in their way for the pnr- pose of taking improper advantage of them. Having Mr Bu- chanan at Quebec, and the other Government agents at the chief towns up the country to consult, the emigrant may have his doubts in cases solved, and all necessary advice tendered to him freqly and gratuitously. One little piece of advice I would here impress upon emigrants is, that they ought not to refuse offers of employment, however low they may suppose the rate of remuneration ; they may suffer inconvenience before they get another offer, and by accepting a short engagement at once, they save their means, and have an opportunity of look- ing about them more at leisure, and getting acquainted with the country. Persons arriving from Britain are apt generally, from vague notions entertained, to place higher value upon their services than they find from after experience they can readily command. The master of the ship is bound to disembark emigrants and their baggage free of expense at the usual landing place, and at reasonable hours. Persons who have contracted for their passage only so far as Quebec, or who may in cases wish rather to proceed onward to Montreal by steam-vessel than wait the slower sailing (perhaps with contrary wind) of their own ship, will usually find steamers ready to take them to Montreal, a distance of 180 miles. When a number of emigrants are going together, the steamer not unfrequently proceeds close alongside the ship, and takes on board the passengers without inconveni- ence. Steamers leave Quebec at least every afternoon at five (' ♦ > ,t . f., ,.t. K i 2G0 JOURNEY FROM MOXTRKAL TO KINGSTON. -■i.l'> o'clock, and call at 'JMivec Rivera), Port St Francis, an The following routes to settlements in Lower Canada are OTHER ROUTES THROUGH CANADA. 2(;3 taken from a circular of Mr Buchanan, chief Emigrant Agent at Quebec : — * The Eastern TowNSiiirs of Lower Canada. — The best route until the new Gosford road is finished, is by Port St Francis, 98 miles above Quebec, by steamboat, passage 28. ()d. ; from thence you proceed to Sherbrooke, by Nicolet, La Baie, Drummondville, and Melbourne. Settlements in the District of Montreal. — Chambly is 1 8 miles from Montreal, on the south side of the St Lawrence ; this route leads also to the eastern townships, via Abbotsford 39 miles, Granby 48 miles, Shefford 62 miles, Georgoville 91 miles, and to Stanstead 104 miles from Montreal, and 34 miles from Sherbrooke. Persons going to Dunham or Stanbridge proceed by steamer and railroad from Montreal to St John's, through Henryville and Bedford, from thence to Stanbridge Mills, Dunham, Nelsonville, and Brome. To the south, from Montreal, by Lachine, are the villages of Chateauguay, 16 miles, and Beauharnois 25 miles, and from thence to Godmanchester and Hinchinbrooke. If going to Shernngton, Hemmingford, Napierville, or Odle Town, you proceed by steamer to La Prairie. To the north of Montreal are the settlements of New Glas- gow, 30 miles ; also Kilkenny, Kildare, and Rawdon, in which are many thriving settlements.* In proceeding from Montreal to Kingston by way of Bytown and the Rideau Canal, ' you pass through Carrillon and Grenville, on the north bank of the Ottawa ; on the south side, opposite Grenville, is the village of Hawkesbury, and six miles ftirthcr up is L'Original, and from thence to the townships of Cale- donia, Plantagenet, and Clarence. Persons proceeding to Hull, Aylmer, Fitzrcy, and to the settlements in Bristol, Clarendon, Litchfield, and MacN oh, stop at By town. Those "proceeding to Perth, Dalhousie, Ramsey, or Lanark, land at Oliver Ferry on the Rideau Canal, 70 miles from Bytown. Persons going to Glengary, Cornwall, Prescott, or Brockvillc, proceed from Montreal by the route of the St Lawrence.' trt.i' M /■jii 2f)i INFOHMATION AM) ADVK K AT NEW YORK. From Kingston, besidon tho Htcamers daily to Toronto and Hamilton, there are others also plyinjj; daily to Victim, Belleville, and other placeH, situated in the Bay of Quintd. Sailing schooners are also usually to be found proceeding from King- ston to Hamilton, St Catherine's on the Welland Canal, and to Port Stanley on Lake Erie, and Amherstburph on the lliver Detroit, and other ports. The rates of passage by those schooners are usually much lower than by the steamboats ; but theirtimes of sailing, and the duration of their voyages, are, of course, subject to much uncertainty. Persons proceeding to Peterborough, or the settlements in the vicinity of lUce Lake, in the Newcastle district, will land at Port Hope. Stages also leave Cobourg for Peterbo- rough and the Kice Lake settlements. From Toronto, steamers leave also daily for Niagara and Queenston, the latter village situated on the Niagara Iliver, being nine miles from the Falls of Niagara. For Dundas, Gait, Guelph, and other places, situated in the Gore and Wellington districts, and north-west of Hamilton, travellers will find regular mail-stages at Hainilton proceeding in this direction, and by way of Wilmot to Goderich, in the Huron district, a distance by this route of 101 milcp. r t *^' m^. ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK, AND ROUTES THROUGH THE INTERIOR. The voyager who has made choice of the New York pas- sage will most likely experience some annoyance from the gangs of unprincipled persons who beset the emigrant upon his arrival V' this port, in order to dupe him out of his money, under the pretence of being authorised to contract for his means of con- veyance up the country, or to provide him with lodgings in the city. Persons who thus beset the traveller ough*^ scrupu- lously to be avoided, and no dependence placed "}>un their TRAVELLING FROM NEW YORK. 205 ito aii(\ levillo, Sailinfj^ iil, anil e llivLT \f those iiboatH ; jes, are, lements ct, will ^eterbo- [ira and I lliver, d in the amilton, ceeding in the :s )rk pa8- e gangs arrival ider the of con- } in the scrupu- ,n their statements. In order to protect strangers arriving from the old world against such impostors, and to aftord necessary informa- tion and advice, an association composed of highly respectable English residents of New York, has recently been established. Steamboats leave New York for Albany, 1(50 miles up the Hudson River, every morning and evening. The fare is usually from one to two dollars. The hours of sailing are usually seven o'clock morning, and five evening. The steamboats which leave New York at seven o'clock morning, reach Albany about six o'clock evening. Travellers proceeding to Rochester or Oswego for the purpose of crossing into Canada at Kingston, Cobourg, Port Hope, Toronto, or Hamilton, by steamers which ply across Lake Ontario between these ports daily ; or those proceeding to DuJQfalo for the purpose of crossing at the Falls of Niagara, or taking a steamboat for the Canada ports of Lake Erie — usually take the railway to Schenectady or Utica, and thence either the canal or railway to Syracuse, Roches- ter, or Buffalo. There is a branch of the Erie Canal lead- ing off at Syracuse to Oswego, and the great canal passes through Rochester. The distance from Albany to Utica by railway is about 9() miles ; but as the train arrives at an in- convenient hour of the morning at Utica, comfort and economy perhaps may be both consulted, by proceeding on the railway no further than Schenectady, about 17 miles from Albany, and here tr«king a canal packet-boat to Utica, or even further, on board of which the traveller may rest for the night, and be at the same time forwarded on his journey. From Utica to Syracuse the distance by the canal is about 63 miles ; from Utica to Rochester, about 160. The length of the branch canal from Syracuse to Oswego on Lake Ontario, is about 38 mili? ■*. The fares from Oswego to Toronto by steam-boat, a distance of 160 miles, are usually six dollars cabin, includ- ing meals, and two dollars steerage. The rate^ by railway in the United States are usually from one penny to twopence, or two to four cents per mile, acco'ding to the class of accommodation. Upon '»'( ' 266 ROUTES FROM BUFFALO— CROSSING INTO CANADA. the Erie Canal the rates are one and a-half to three cents., or say three farthings to three -halfpence per mile, ac- cording as meals are, or are not, provided. From the op- position of the railway, the rates may, however, be found to be less than those stated. The distance between Albany and Buffalo by the canal is 363 miles ; the route taken by the rail- way being more direct, the distance is less. The first-class railway trains accomplish the journey from Albany to Buffalo in 25 hours, and last season the fare was 1 1 dollars by first- class accommodation, and there were emigrant trains in 1843 conveying passengers for 5^ dollars. From Buffalo, steamboats depart daily for Detroit, which is half a mile opposite tha village of "Windsor, in the Western District of Canada. The fares to Detroit from Buffalo are from five to seven dollars cabin, and tw© dollars or less for steerage passage. Steamboats leave Detroit every other day, at least, for Chatham on the River Thames — generally Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday afternoons — and usually daily for Samia on the St Clair ; and for Goderich on the River Maitland, generally two or three times a-week. A steamboat also usually plys between Buffalo and Port Colbome, at the mouth of the Welland Canal, Dunville, near the mouth of the Grand River, and Ports Dover, Rowan, and Stanley, and other places on the Canada side of Lake Erie, generally twice a-week, leaving Buffulo on Monday and Thursday evenings. Steamboats a\so ply from Buffalo to Schlosser on the American, and Chippe'va on the Canada side of the Niagara River. Rail- way trains leave Buffalo for Niagara Falls twice a-day ; the distance is 22 miles, and the fare half a dollar. A very little way below the Falls, and within full sight of the great cata- ract, the River Niagara narrows to a few hundred yards, and a ferry is maintained at the point by a small row boat, which the traveller may make choice o; for the purpose of crossingr into Canada. THE END. 'i.;". ^NADA. to three mile, ac- in the op° aund to be Ibany and )y the rail- first-clasa to BnflFalo rs by first- ins in 1843 t, which is le Western Buffalo are or less for other day, generally id usually L the River L steamboat me, at the i mouth of tanley, and rally twice ' evenings. American, ver. Rail- a-day ; the very little great cata- yards, and 3oat, which of crossingr I'i»f^' .■.••-r--