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 2J WEST MAIN STRi^ET 
 
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 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 S 
 
 6 
 
f. 
 
I 
 
 I 
 
 The Land of the Muskeg 
 
■# 
 
"M ' •— 
 
 fri^tifis^ifif. 
 
 ^ir7i<uyv(f?*u/n^r~^ 
 
The 
 
 Land of the Muskeg 
 
 •liy //. SOMERS SOMERSET 
 
 With ii Preface hy 
 
 '4. Hungerford 'Pollen 
 
 It'll!) Oil, llidiihr,! and 'Ten l/liislijlion.^ jioni Shitil.u!. h\ 
 
 , I. II. I'olhn ,niJ liht.niLin.viis rih>l,>i;r,ij'h:, 
 
 and I'oiir Mij'S 
 
 • :^s9^- 
 
 -aaa^- 
 
 LONDON: WILIJAM III'INKMANN 
 
 ^■J/I I igl'ilS rCUITid 
 
 IS95 
 
F 
 
 Edinburgh: T. iinil A. Cunstaiili , Printers to Her Majusly 
 
 CI 
 
 ;; 
 
 t 
 
Zo 
 
 M V I\I O T 1 1 I', K 
 
 PWri I W<i»l»WIMM<«l 
 
I 
 
 w 
 
 •:H**M;V 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 l-RIFACI 
 
 I'Ai.K 
 
 xiii-xxxi 
 
 CHAP ri: R 
 
 I KdM llir, AIMAIIASKA lAM'INC. 
 
 cnArrHR ii 
 
 I III. ri.A( r. Kivi.K 
 
 24 
 
 CHAI'TKU II 
 
 l)A'':il \N AMI 1 III'. IIKAKS 
 
 s(> 
 
 CHAPTHR IV 
 
 CAMI'INc; IN SWA.Ml' .... 
 
 77 
 
 CHAl'TKR V 
 
 l)N niK IKACK ()|- A (;ki//i,y . 
 
 99 
 
 C Ii A V r i: R V 1 
 
 InllN S I'KOI'IIIXV 
 
 120 
 
 chai'ti:r VI 
 
 ON IIIK SNOW-I.INK. .... 
 
 '36 
 
 .>^*Mi^ 
 
1 
 
 I 
 
 ii 
 (1 
 
 1' 
 
 VllI 
 
 THE LAND OF THIi MUSKEG 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 SHORT COMMONS .... 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 HUNGKR AND COLD .... 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 i6i 
 
 178 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 THE I'OKTAIRS AND SICCANKES 
 
 220 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 DOWN IHK HAIMDS AND AWAY 
 
 237 
 
 % 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 H. VOMERS SOMERSKT 
 
 A nOOD TROPHY . . . . 
 
 ROUGH WORK IN THK ROCKIES , 
 WINTRY WEATHER IN W VOMINO 
 
 H. li. ROUND 
 
 SNOWEU-UI' IN CAEIFORN 
 WYOM 
 
 WINTER CAMP IN 
 
 I A 
 NO 
 
 A SriCRN FATHER 
 
 Wl.; HUNTED WITH FAIR SUCCESS 
 
 I'ACK-TRAIN IN THE SNOW 
 
 H. S. SOMERSET .... 
 
 STEAMER ON Al'HAliASKA . 
 
 PASSING AN INDIAN CAMP 
 
 THE STURCEON-HEAI) ON THE LITTI 
 
 ONE OF THE CREW 
 
 IHE EAST OF OUR liOAT 
 
 A NATIVE 
 
 A HAI.F-IIREED .... 
 
 STUCK IN A SWAMP . 
 
 'HERE AND THERE WE CAME TO SM 
 
 A TYPE 
 
 FIRST VIEW OF THE PEACE 
 
 MONIAS 
 
 H. l;. ROUND 
 
 i'AI' 
 
 DAUKHAN .... 
 JOHN KNOT . 
 
 SI, A 
 
 I.I, 
 
 VE 
 
 Froniispiccc 
 
 l'A(,E 
 
 Preface xiii 
 
 xiv 
 
 xvi 
 
 xvii 
 
 ., xix 
 
 „ xxi 
 
 ., xxii 
 
 ., xxiv 
 
 „ \xvii 
 
 ,, xxxi 
 
 UAI 
 
 I VI' 
 
 lES 
 
 4 
 6 
 
 lO 
 12 
 
 i6 
 
 17 
 •9 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 27 
 
 29 
 32 
 
 32 
 
 36 
 
ir 
 
 f!l 
 
 'I 
 
 8 ' 
 
 i I 
 
 X THE LAND OF THE MUSKE(i 
 
 NISTAMAPU . 
 
 ALBERT TAIT 
 
 FORT DUNVEGAN . 
 
 A FISH SPEAR 
 
 CHIEF TRAN(JUILLE 
 
 TWELVEFOOT DAVIS 
 
 JOHN THE HAl'TIST'S DAUGHTERS 
 
 ROUND AND POLLEN PACKING . 
 
 'THE HORSES WERE HEAVILY LADEN' 
 
 'MANY OF THE TREES WERE ROTTING' . 
 
 'THE GRASS WAS LONG AND VERY TIRING' 
 
 'WE MOVED ON ABOUT FIVE MILES' 
 
 THE PRAIRIE 
 
 'HE HAD ONLY THE SMALL MUZZLE-LOADER' 
 
 'THE HUGE ANIMAL ROLLED OVER DEAD' 
 
 INDIAN ICE SCOOP 
 
 'FAR BEYOND WE COULD SEE THE LOW FOOT-HU.LS 
 
 MOSQUITO NETS . 
 
 AN EVENING CAMP 
 
 'ABOUT MIDDAY WE DESCENDED INTO AN OPEN 
 FLAT' 
 
 HORSES SWIMMING THE PINE RIVER 
 
 JOHN AND DAUKHAN IN THE CANOE 
 
 FISH SPEAR 
 
 OUR CAMP IN THE VALLEY 
 
 GETTING READY FOR MOBERLEY'S LAKE 
 
 TRACK OF A GRIZZLY .... 
 
 IN OPEN COUNTRY .... 
 
 BIRCH-BARK ROGGANS .... 
 
 HARPOON POINTS .... 
 
 JOHN 
 
 ALLAH'S MOTHER .... 
 
 ALLAH'S WIFE 
 
 PAGE 
 
 39 
 
 40 
 
 42 
 44 
 50 
 5' 
 53 
 57 
 60 
 61 
 64 
 
 65 
 68 
 
 71 
 72 
 76 
 78 
 79 
 83 
 
 87 
 89 
 92 
 96 
 
 lOI 
 
 103 
 104 
 109 
 1 12 
 119 
 
 1 22 
 125 
 
 127 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 XI 
 
 I'AGE 
 
 39 
 
 40 
 
 42 
 44 
 50 
 51 
 53 
 57 
 60 
 61 
 64 
 
 65 
 
 68 
 
 71 
 72 
 76 
 
 78 
 79 
 83 
 
 87 
 
 89 
 92 
 
 96 
 
 lOI 
 
 103 
 104 
 109 
 1 12 
 119 
 
 1 22 
 
 125 
 127 
 
 LODGES 
 
 CAMPED IN THE M/OODS 
 
 AFTER A HARD DAY 
 
 A BEND OF THE PINE 
 
 THE START 
 
 AN AMPHITHEATRE 
 
 ON THE NORTH SPUR 
 
 THE MOCK SUNSET 
 
 THE VIRGIN FOREST 
 
 A WELCOME SK^HT 
 
 FIRE IJAG 
 
 TWO OF OUR VISITORS 
 
 SVMON 
 
 'INDIAN LAUGH AIJ, THE TIME' 
 
 CHARLEY SENIOR 
 
 HIS SON DEDODOR 
 
 CIIARI.KV JUNIOR 
 
 GAMBLING STICKS ...... 
 
 TOM-TOMS 
 
 HORSES IN DOWN TIMBER .... 
 
 WHICH.' 
 
 THE AXE-MEN HAD TO CLEAR A PATH 
 
 STONE WAR CLUBS 
 
 'THE VALLEY H.\D BECOME VERY NARROW' 
 
 GOOD-BVE TO IHE PINE 
 
 'lAF'.RVWHERE DEEP POOLS AND BEAVER DAM> 
 'OUR CAMP WAS MISERABLY WET' . 
 
 'MARCHING IN MUSKEGS' 
 
 DEAD I!I:AT 
 
 'DARKNESS CAME ON' 
 
 THE HARD GROUND' 
 
 A BUILDING LOOMED Ul' BIC. IN THi; DARKNESS' 
 I'OLLEN LOOKED VERY GHASTLY' . 
 
 I'A(,K 
 129 
 
 '31 
 ^33 
 135 
 136 
 
 •38 
 140 
 
 146 
 14S 
 
 159 
 160 
 162 
 
 •63 
 164 
 164 
 165 
 155 
 167 
 168 
 170 
 171 
 172 
 
 177 
 
 180 
 
 1S2 
 
 189 
 
 191 
 
 192 
 
 196 
 
 198 
 
 199 
 
 211 
 
 216 
 
4 vll 
 
 -ti 
 
 xii THE LAND OF THE MUSKEG 
 
 JOHN SAYS GOOD-BYK 
 
 FORT M'^LEOD 
 
 ROBERT RAMSEY . 
 
 ON A GOOD TRAIL 
 
 CARRIER INDIANS 
 
 A PAIR OF TWEEZERS 
 
 A PREHISTORIC MICROBE . 
 
 STONE SPEAR AND ARROW HEADS 
 
 DREAM NECKLACE 
 
 CKILCOTIN PIPE .... 
 
 WOODEN COMB .... 
 
 ON THE FRAZER IN A DUG-OUT 
 
 NEARLY A MILE BROAD 
 
 'THE RIVER DROPPED OUT OF SIGHT OVER A FALL 
 
 'SMOOTH WATER SOME MILES BELOW' 
 
 BONE MINNOW 
 
 SPEAR HEAD 
 
 CASTORUM CASE 
 
 PAGE 
 
 223 
 225 
 227 
 228 
 230 
 230 
 232 
 
 236 
 238 
 240 
 241 
 244 
 
 245 
 246 
 
 248 
 
 ill 
 
 ■.t| 
 
 If 
 
 MAPS 
 
 MAP OF BRITISH COLUMBIA, ALBERTA, 
 
 AND ATHABASKA to face page I 
 
 EDMONTON '.O DUNVEGAN .... „ 1 4 
 
 DUNVEGAN TO FORT M'^LEOD ... „ 5^ 
 FORT APLEOD TO FORT (JEORGE AND 
 
 QUKSNEI.LE MOUTH .... „ 237 
 
 —««-*■• 
 
PREFACE 
 
 '■?<7 
 
 It was only about ten clays before we left EnoJand 
 that we decided upon making the expedition de- 
 scribed in this book. Two years before, Somerset 
 and I had made short hunting trips in the moun- 
 tains in the north of the State of Wyoming, and in 
 the more southerly sierras 
 in California. Here we had ; 
 hunted with fair success, and 
 incidentally had learned what 
 roughing it really means. In 
 Wyoming we had struggled 
 with a premature gust of 
 wintry weather, and had been 
 snowed up, and in California 
 too had experienced the 
 pleasures of being lost on 
 snov\ -covered heights. So 
 
 that, though only nineteen Somerset had had a con- 
 siderable experience of mountain travelling. But 
 so far our adventures had not been anything out 
 of the ordinary lot of the sporting tripper ; and we 
 
 A GOOD TKOI'IIY 
 

 XIV 
 
 THIi: LAND OI- THI- Ml'SKmi 
 
 were now anxious to break new ij^round, if possibk-, 
 in a country that offered a fair prospect for sport. 
 
 It was at this point that a recent map of British 
 Columbia and certain mendacious Canadian likie- 
 booUs fell into our hands, and in a moment our 
 plans were laid. ' Unexplored ' fi^^ured so largely 
 
 and alluringly in one 
 and prodigious ac- 
 counts of bears, 
 moose, w o I V e s, 
 beavers, cariboo, and 
 other animals so se- 
 ductively in the other, 
 that we felt to force 
 our way through this 
 untravelled region 
 promised a certain 
 amount of novelty 
 and adventure, while 
 it seemed impossiole 
 that we could pass through the great fur reserve 
 of the world without getting such an amount of 
 sport as would justify the labour of our undertaking. 
 What Mr. Pike had so courageously done (and 
 so admirably described) in the extreme North, must, 
 it seemed, be a much easier tliinu to do in more 
 
 K()U(;il WOKK IN IIIK KO(jKIi;s 
 
■U.."^! 
 
 PRI'I'ACI- 
 
 XV 
 
 tem[)eratc and less barren rco;ions ; so \vc dctcriiiinccl 
 to strike off from the hi<rhways of that rej^ion 
 thv rivers— and make an overland journey into the 
 unknown. 
 
 The first thin^r to do was to gain the support of 
 the Hudson's Bay Company; and let it be said at 
 once, nothing that we asked for in the shape of 
 cither advice or help was ever denied us. l^Vom 
 Lord Lichfield and the officer in charge of the 
 smallest fort we passed, every one who had to do 
 with that great organisation treated us with a real 
 kindness that is not to be explained by any mere 
 consideration of commercial courtes)-. Without the 
 Company, one could hardly travel there at all, but 
 the services one is so happy to remember are those 
 voluntarily given, often at considerable cost of 
 trouble to the giver, and always with a spontaneity 
 and goodwill that made the kindness doubly de- 
 lightful. 
 
 The farthest point the railway could take us to 
 was the little town of Edmonton, that lies to the 
 north of the Province of Alberta, and there we 
 arrived or June 7th, 1893. We set to work at 
 once to find some one who could give us informa- 
 tion based on personal experience. Judgim^ merely 
 
 by th 
 
 e map. the Blue-books, and the fur retu 
 
 rns we 
 
!k 
 
 3Ei-rr 
 
 I > 
 
 XVI 
 
 THI' I-ANI) OI- THI- MlSKIlCi 
 
 m 
 
 had seen ;it Winnipeg, our original plan hail been 
 to travel by water and wagon to Fort St. John, 
 on the Peace River, and make that our base for a 
 journey to the North. Of course we were reckoning 
 in entire ignorance of the character of the country. 
 
 We were in Kdmonton a full week, and thouirh 
 most h()S[)itably welcomed in that llourishing sentinel 
 town, it is to be said that our plans were received 
 with derision. What folly to go to certain misery 
 
 and failure, when by 
 staying where we were 
 we could get the finest 
 wild -fowl shooting in 
 the world ! Then there 
 were any number of 
 black bears and, if I 
 remember rightly, deer, 
 moose, and a whispered rumour of buffalo, and all 
 in a neighbourhood teeming with comfort. It is 
 always so in my experience in a frontier town. 
 One would have thought that, having come so far 
 afield, these pioneers from an overcrowded world 
 would have warmed to the project of fresh adven- 
 ture ; but no, one is invariably warned with circum- 
 stantial (but quite unveracious) anecdote of the 
 perils of the beyond, and gratuitously (and quite 
 
 UlNTKY WICATIIKK IN \VVu.MIN(; 
 
 7i 
 
 -i 
 
 (1 
 
 .- J 
 
 t 
 
rKi-rAci-: 
 
 XVI 1 
 
 been 
 John, 
 for a 
 voning 
 intry. 
 Lhouijjh 
 entincl 
 'ccivcd 
 misery 
 en by 
 c were 
 e finest 
 ting in 
 ^n there 
 nber of 
 if 1 
 , deer, 
 intl all 
 It is 
 town, 
 so far 
 d world 
 adven- 
 circuni- 
 of the 
 id quite 
 
 incorrectly) advised as to rejj^ions and routes one 
 has no wish or intention of exploring;. 
 
 But most luckily at Edmonton there was one 
 man who did know the country we were making 
 for, and knew it and its inhabitants well, for he had 
 for years been stationed at ! )unvegan in charge of 
 \ M. the Hudson's Bay 
 Company's fort. 
 This was Mr. H. B. 
 Round, about whom 
 I shall have more to 
 say later. Suffice it 
 at present that he at 
 once cncouracred our 
 making the attempt, 
 and only corrected 
 our plans by suggest- 
 ing that we should 
 start from Dunvegan 
 and work west in- 
 stead of north. The thousand perplexities that 
 threaten every traveller who enters a country new 
 to him were in great degree dissipated by the 
 iniormation and advice that Mr. Round gave us, 
 and after three days' acquaintance we had got to 
 lean on his judgment so completely that we begged 
 
 b 
 
 r- — ■ 
 
 
 
 n"'. -^s 
 
 fc 
 
 
 'flf ■■"' 
 
 ; *jfe: 
 
 
 •--\. 
 
 •• ;■ '.;■' 
 
 
 
 »^*i§:i 
 
 
 II. 1!. KOUNI) 
 
w 
 
 iil 
 
 Win 
 
 Till". LAND OI" Till". MI'SKI.C. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 i4n'^' 
 
 -5 1 
 
 3 
 
 him to acc()in[)any us if he could. Most fortunately 
 for us he was able to do this, and at once threw 
 himself into the business of buying stores and 
 perfecting arrangements with a heartiness that 
 boded well. 
 
 Our first move must be to get to the Athabaska 
 Landing, a hundred miles north ; here we should 
 find a river steamer that plies on the Athabaska, 
 carrying the Company's fur and stores, and in this 
 we should be taken uj) to meet Mr. Ewen Macdonald 
 from the Little Slave Lake, who was expected at 
 the mouth of the Little Slave River with the fruits 
 of the winter's trading. Mr. ^Lacdonald would see 
 us safe to his headquarters on the bend of the 
 lake, and here we should be left to our own devices. 
 
 The steamer was due to start on the 2oth, but 
 our arrangements being all made, and we in a hurry 
 to escape into camp-life, we thought we might as 
 well start, and so on the 14th, amid the cheers of 
 the good-hearted folk of Edmonton, and a drench- 
 ing downpour of rain, we left in two wagons heavily 
 loaded with passengers, the more precious baggage, 
 stores for a week, and our camp outfit. Rourd 
 and I drove in one, and a hired driver, who was 
 to bring the teams back, had charge of the other, 
 with Captain Robert Ramsey and Dr. Dudley as 
 
 H 
 
m^ 
 
 rtunately 
 cc threw 
 )rcs and 
 less that 
 
 kthabaska 
 vc should 
 thabaska, 
 M.\ in this 
 ilacdonakl 
 cpectcd at 
 I the fruits 
 vvoukl see 
 nd of the 
 n devices. 
 20th, but 
 in a hurry 
 might as 
 cheers of 
 a drench- 
 3ns heavily 
 is baggage, 
 tit. Rourd 
 r, who was 
 the other, 
 Dudley as 
 
 si 
 
 
 a 
 
 O 
 
 m 
 
IT 
 
 XX 
 
 THI- LAM) ()!• Tin- MUSKF'C. 
 
 * ' 
 
 in f 
 
 passcntjcrs. I ho Doctor was a young praciilioiur 
 from Chicago, whom wc had cn<;a<f(:d on our way 
 out, a strani^cr to the wilderness, but who never- 
 theless bore the hardships of our expedition with- 
 out complaint. His skill was j^^eatly in request 
 amonij^st the Indians, and the medical stores he 
 had broui^ht with him proved of immense use. 
 
 Captain Ramsey was an old friend of ours. We 
 had made his acquaintance in California, when a 
 sudden shock of earthquake brou^jht all the five 
 occupants of a tiny hotel tog^ether into a pathway, 
 under an ominously swinging oil-lamp. We were 
 on the point of starting into the mountains, and 
 Ramsey, who had heard of our plan, b(;gged to hv 
 allowed to come. The son of a substantial ship- 
 owner of South Shields, he had been brought up to 
 a sailor's life, and having visited every port in the 
 world, and seen life in a hundred different countries, 
 was an immediate volunteer for anything that pro- 
 mised novelty. In camp he showed a genius for 
 usefulness that made him an indispensable ally, and 
 when we regretfully parted, we readily acceded to 
 his request, that in the event of our making another 
 expedition we should let him know. This 1 had 
 done just before leaving England, and the rendez- 
 vous being made at a distance of 7000 miles, it 
 
1 
 
 i 
 
 I'kl I ACI- 
 
 \\i 
 
 iCllllOlUT 
 
 our Nv:iy 
 () nevcr- 
 on with- 
 1 request 
 tores h(; 
 use. 
 
 irs. We 
 ., when a 
 
 the five 
 pathway, 
 We were 
 ains. and 
 red to be 
 itial ship- 
 loht up to 
 ort in the 
 
 countries, 
 
 that pro- 
 eenius for 
 l; ally, and 
 icceded to 
 le another 
 liis 1 had 
 
 le rcndez- 
 3 miles, it 
 
 seems It) he worlii recorilini; that he met us in 
 IvJmonlon within half an hour of our own arrival. 
 
 Besides the wagons, we had hir(;d a horse to riile, 
 on which .Somerset and I look turns; hut there was 
 IK) romance in ilu; journey. The country, it is true, 
 was i'air to the eye, and I should imaj^inc of jj^reat 
 auricuhural value ; but incessant rain and a poor 
 
 WISTKK ( AMI' I.N \VVUMIN(; 
 
 road made travelling the heiLjht of discomfort, so 
 that on the third day we were glad to fmd ourselves, 
 late in the evening, making our way down the hill 
 that leatls to the square mile of territory and half- 
 dozen log-houses and stores that rejoice in the 
 sonorous name of the Athabaska Landing. 
 
 Here Mr. Wood made us at home in his office, 
 while he sent out to have a small shack cleared for 
 
^!^"^ 
 
 I' >: 
 
 'i 
 
 xxii 
 
 THI-: LAND OI' Tin- Ml'SKl'G 
 
 
 our reception. It was a tiny log-hut of two small 
 rooms, but there was a stove in it, and we gratefully 
 accepted his offer of its shelter, as the alternative of 
 camping in the mud was not pleasant. 
 
 The Athabaska Landing is the gate of the great 
 North. It is from here that all the stores go out 
 that supply the Hudson's iJay Company's forts from 
 Hudson's Hope to the mouth of the Mackenzie. 
 A steamer built on the spot plies up the river to 
 the mouth of the Slave River, and down to where 
 
 the rapids make the Athabaska no 
 longer navigable, where the stores 
 are transhipped to York boats. 
 Beyond the warehouses, offices, 
 and Mr. Wood's residence there 
 are no buildinLrs, although most 
 of the year there is a large Indian 
 encampment near by. It is, too, 
 the last outpost of the Govern- 
 ment, and a couple of the Canadian 
 [)olice were on duty to stop the 
 im[)ortation of strong liquor. But 
 once on the north shore of the 
 river, the constituted authority of the Queen's 
 Government ends. Over all the rest of Northern 
 Canada the land has been taken and settled after 
 
 A STKKN lATIIKU 
 
 i^'J 
 
mm 
 
 P« 
 
 rRI-I'ACI' 
 
 XX m 
 
 wo small 
 :jratcfully 
 "native of 
 
 the great 
 s o-o out 
 orts from 
 ;ickenzie. 
 river to 
 to where 
 baska no 
 he stores 
 k boats. 
 , offices, 
 ice there 
 gh most 
 e Indian 
 t is, too, 
 Govern- 
 ^anadian 
 stop the 
 or. But 
 ^ of the 
 Queen's 
 lorthern 
 ed after 
 
 treaty with the Indian tribes, the natives ♦giving up 
 their right to range freely, and getting reservations 
 of territory and an annual supply of food in return. 
 Witii the northern Indians no such ticali's have 
 been made, and I believe it is an open question 
 whether they are at all under the jurisdiction of the 
 Canadian Courts. I think it was the day alter our 
 arrival that a weatherbeaten old savage landed in a 
 beautifully made birch-bark canoe while we were 
 loitering at the landing-place, and came and shook 
 hands with us in the friendliest manner. His story 
 was curious, and illustrates what I have just been 
 saying. There was a domestic (juarrel, it seems, one 
 day in his lodge, and his son offering some serious 
 incivility to his mother, he gave him a lesson in 
 good-breeding by chopping off his head with an 
 axe. For this he was taken out to Winnipeg, I 
 think, and tried for murder, found guilty and sen- 
 tenced, his counsel all the while protesting. The 
 sentence was changed to imprisonment, and finally, 
 after a lew weeks' detention, he was released and re- 
 stored to his country — w^hether on the score of health 
 or want of jurisdiction in the Court I am unable to 
 say, but I was told that the first was made an excuse 
 for not deciding the latter (juestion. 
 
 One thing, however, is certain, and it is that 
 
■»r- 
 
 XXIV 
 
 THE LAND OP THE MUSKE.G 
 
 1'i ^ 
 
 north of the Athabaska there is no function of 
 Government that is discharged either by the 
 Dominion of Canada or the Imperial authority ; 
 nor has the original power of the Indian chiefs 
 survived in its integrity, and over far the greater 
 part of the North-West all the machinery of con- 
 trol they know is represented to the uncovenanted 
 Indian by the Hudson's Bay Company and the 
 missionaries of St. Mary Immaculate. 
 
 These last fill a picturesque place in the story of 
 the country. Ai almost every fort you will find the 
 neat log-houses and church of the Roman Catholic 
 
 Mission ; and the 
 priests themselves 
 are all highly edu- 
 cated men, while the 
 most of th>.m are of 
 good French or 
 French -Canadian 
 families. Their in- 
 fluence with the 
 Indians is immense. During the last rebellion 
 the Canadian Government owed much to the 
 missionaries' power of restiaining incipient revolt, 
 and every Hudson's Bay Company's officer we met 
 was loua and unqualified in their praise. This 
 
 VVK IlUNTlOl) WITH FAIR SUCCESS 
 
 f 
 
 \>.aU 
 
 IV 
 
PREFACE 
 
 XXV 
 
 ction of 
 by the 
 
 ithority ; 
 
 n chiefs 
 greater 
 of con- 
 
 enanted 
 
 md the 
 
 story of 
 find the 
 Catholic 
 lid the 
 mselves 
 ily edu- 
 /hile the 
 n are of 
 ich or 
 nadian 
 heir in- 
 th the 
 ebelHon 
 to the 
 : revolt, 
 we met 
 This 
 
 would hardly be so were not their services to 
 civilisation and good order known beyond dispute, 
 for the officers in question were to a man alien to 
 their race and their creed, and as we had lament- 
 able occasion to remark, the bitterness of religious 
 differences is not a whit softer in that country 
 than in ours. For ourselves, we have a score 
 of services to thank them for, and the fathers at 
 the Little Slave Lake, Smoky River, Dunvegan, 
 and Fort IVFLeod each and all put themselves and 
 all they possessed at our disposal in the friendliest 
 way. It Avas through Fere Husson, at Dunvegan, 
 that we were able to make the arrangements that 
 enabled Daukhan Tustovvits and John Knot — 
 those invaluable men — to leave their families for 
 the summer, secure in the consciousness that they 
 were in good hands : to Fere Morice we owe a 
 debt of thanks for much of the information that we 
 obtained, — and to all a recollection of personal 
 kindliness and consideration that it will be a lasting 
 pleasure to remember. 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company itself, however, holds 
 the pride of place in the North. With its long 
 history, its wide ramifications, its vast property, 
 and its huge power, so benevolently used, it seems 
 more like a political institution than a mercantile 
 
T' 
 
 » ' ,♦ 
 
 XWl 
 
 THI-: LAND Ol' Till' Ml'SKi:(i 
 
 
 
 concern. To borrow from the name of their ex- 
 cellent tobacco, there is something of an Imperial 
 Mixture about their organisation. At the forts 
 flies the Union Jack, with the Company's mono- 
 gram upon it : amongst the officers there is an 
 esprit de corps and a loyalty to their calling that 
 is almost patriotic. To them rivals, like the 
 smugglers of old, are 'free traders,' and the 
 survival of the old-world phrase is eloquent of 
 the very tale of the Company's history. 
 
 And yet the stress of modern commercial life is 
 making great, and in a sense devastating, changes 
 in the old order. The system of appointing a 
 new Commissioner every five years disturbed the 
 continuity of the Company's policy as little as the 
 changes in the Viccroyalty of India now dis- 
 connects that Government, so long as that policy 
 was determined by an annual conference of the 
 chief officers. Those were days when great dis- 
 cretion was necessarily left to each officer in the 
 discharge of his duties. Fraud, peculation, and 
 dishonesty were unknown things in the Company's 
 history, and it must be obvious to any one that to 
 secure trustworthy men, and trust them absolutely, 
 would have remained the best security for a con- 
 tinued immunity. But with the new system of 
 
 
 I iiv 
 
 I 
 
PRi-:i'Aci<: 
 
 XXVI 1 
 
 heir cx- 
 Impcrial 
 he forts 
 s mono- 
 'e is an 
 !ng that 
 ike the 
 md the 
 uent of 
 
 i\ Hfe is 
 changes 
 ntinor a 
 bed the 
 
 as the 
 )w dis- 
 t poHcy 
 
 of the 
 sat dis- 
 
 in the 
 m, and 
 npany's 
 that to 
 olutely, 
 
 a con- 
 tem of 
 
 centralisation which improved methods of com- 
 munication have made possible, the system works 
 tlifferently, and the old order is rapidly disap[)ear- 
 ing. Competition and the rapid decay of the fur 
 trade in so many districts contribute much to the 
 change in the character of the officers, and with it 
 the general aspect of the Company as an institution 
 must in a few years' time be altered beyond reco---- 
 nition. 
 
 It is useless to regret the inevitable, but a casual 
 traveller may be pardoned if he deplores the 
 invasion of the spirit of modern dividend-huntin(r 
 into a domain 
 so romantic and 
 inspiring. For 
 the trail of eco- 
 nomy is over all. 
 Old servants are 
 being dismissed, 
 and their places 
 taken by cheaper 
 
 men. Forts are abandoned, and Indians forced 
 to move to follow their r-'.arkets, and everywhere 
 there is a consciousness of uncertainty as to the 
 future, and ignorance of what the next move 
 from headquarters may be, that but ill replaces 
 
 I'ACIv-TKAIN IN TIIK SNOW 
 
1 
 
 !^ 
 
 ' > 
 
 XXVlll 
 
 Tlir: I.AND OI' THI' MUSKEC. 
 
 1^ 
 
 l'' * 
 
 h 
 
 m 
 
 u 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 ^ 
 
 ;■ 
 
 « 
 
 
 
 ^' 
 
 / 
 
 
 r 
 
 ^ '♦ 
 
 
 ' 
 
 1 
 
 
 u\S 
 
 > 
 
 L,!U 
 
 \ 
 
 the old self-reliance and security that made such 
 splendid servants of the officers, and endowed them 
 with an authority that the Indians instinctively 
 respected. 
 
 The change in its least attractive features was 
 brought home to us very vividly from the fact of 
 our havint^ had the great good fortime to secure 
 Mr. Round's company on our journey. He was a 
 man of a good English family, educated in a public 
 school, and bringing to his work all those high 
 ideals of loyalty, perseverance, and devotion that 
 are the distinguishing mark of our public servants. 
 When he joined the Company's service more than 
 twenty years ago that was the universal spirit of its 
 employees, and in that spirit Mr. Round put ;n his 
 score of years of toil. After fourteen years' charge 
 of the fort at Dunvegan he had just reached the 
 point at which he would have been entitled to 
 expect promotion, when, for what was alleged to 
 be an error of judgment, he was summarily dis- 
 missed. At Dunvegan he had the care of a large 
 ranche of cattle. Several died of an obscure 
 disease. It seemed to him that the disease must 
 be contagious, and in the exercise of his discretion 
 he killed the survivors that were afflicted to save 
 the rest. In all, if I remember aright, he only 
 
 
rRI'FACE 
 
 XXIX 
 
 killed two or three. These acts were duly reported ; 
 but, owing to the indiscreet anxiety of a friend to 
 discover the action of the disease, the fact of the 
 disease at Dunveoan became public, there was an 
 outcry from Europe, the Company was blamed, 
 and the unfortunate Mr. Round was made; the 
 scapegoat. 
 
 Now it is hard for me to believe that if the 
 control of the Company had been in the hands 
 of any one who had personal knowledge of Mr. 
 Round's character and service, so cruel a punish- 
 ment would have been inlhcted for so small a 
 fault — if fault indeed it was ; for the inquiry which 
 was promised into the nature of the disease has not, 
 so far as I am aware, ever been made. And that 
 is why I alluded just now to the five years' Com- 
 missionership : the chief of the Company has no 
 knowledge, can have no knowledge, of his officers, 
 and in a moment may part with one of the best the 
 Company has ever had, inflicting a double wrong 
 — one on the organisation that has been so well, so 
 loyally served, another on the man who has given 
 the prime of his life to its service. 
 
 But to us the incident was all gain, for we 
 enjoyed the companionship and help of a man 
 whose like one could seldom hope; to light on in 
 
^p^ 
 
 XXX 
 
 TII1<: LAND OF THI<: Ml'SKF-O 
 
 t 
 
 the pioneer [)laces of the earth. Never out of 
 humour nor down-hearted, he did more work than 
 any in an outfit where all were from the first 
 almost driven to work their hardest all the time. 
 And his advice and judgment made us as much 
 his debtors as his exertions, for he knew more 
 of the country and our method of travel, and the 
 character and idiosyncrasies of the Indians, than 
 any one we came across. His complete mastery 
 of the Cree language was an invaluable help, and 
 the fact of the Indians all knowmg and likinijf him 
 personally made a hundred things easy that might 
 well have been impossible. It was during our idle 
 stay at the Athabaska Landing that our final plans 
 were laid. From Round we had learned that the 
 north bank of the Peace River was practically 
 impassable — and moreover, not well stocked with 
 game. The country between Pouce Coupee's 
 prairie and the Pine Pass, on the other hand, was a 
 favourite hunting-ground both of the Beavers and 
 Crees. This route had another attraction for us, 
 as by working through towards the mountains we 
 could get out again to civilisation by M^Leod's 
 Lake and the Frazer River instead of retracing our 
 steps. There was a chance too of finding tolerable 
 trails, Mr. Dawson having come over the Pine 
 
 h i> 
 
m 
 
 rKI'I'ACI' 
 
 XXXI 
 
 Pass and through to Dunvegan some fourteen 
 years before. 'I'his therefore we deLcrminecI to 
 attempt ; but of course all would d(^pend on the 
 <,aiidance and information we should get later from 
 the natives. How far our hopes were realised, and 
 our adventures in carrying out our plan, the reader 
 will learn in the following pages. 
 
 ARTHUR IIUNCJKRKORI) TOLLKN. 
 
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 MAP or 
 
 ALBERTA AND ATHABASCA 
 
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 CHAPTER I 
 
 FROM THE ATHABASKA LANDING 
 
 For five days we remained in our cabin at the 
 Athabaska Landing, talking to Mr. Wood, ihe 
 officer in charge, or wandering over to the camp 
 of Cree Indians by the river-bank. For hours 
 together we sat watching the great stream Mow 
 . by on its way to the Arctic, and wondering what 
 our journey would bring forth. The steamer lay 
 moored to the bank— a curious stern-wheeled affair 
 steered by five rudders, and of a somewhat roucrh- 
 and-ready build. All day and all night the 
 mosquitoes hung over us in clouds, but we were 
 told that their numbers would be niultiplied a 
 hundred-fold when we got into the bush country ; 
 and this certainly proved true. Torrents of rain 
 fell perpetually, so that we were forced to sleep 
 under the tables in the cabin if we wished to keep 
 dry beds, and often above the roaring of the rain 
 we heard the beating of the tom-tom through the 
 night, while the Indians gambled or held a tea 
 revel. Our stores had been delayed, and did not 
 arrive until we had nearly exhausted our patience. 
 
 A 
 
 
ir 
 
 i i 
 
 THE LAND OF THE MUSKEG 
 
 
 i i 
 
 
 f } 
 
 and, to add to our troubles, the captain of the 
 steamer lay dying, so that she could not start. At 
 last, however, a substitute was found, and with 
 Mr. Livock in charge, on June the 23rd, we got 
 under way, and steamed slowly up the Athabaska 
 to the West. The rapid current impeded the 
 little boat, so that she shook and splashed her 
 single paddle, and made but a poor pace. Reach 
 after reach of that monotonous river came to view 
 -«^MMfcn^ and was left behind with no land- 
 mark to tell of its passage. The 
 banks, high and choked with 
 dense woods of pine and poplar, 
 advanced and receded with the 
 bending of the stream, dark and 
 sombre, like houses in an ill-lit 
 street. And yet they were full 
 of interest to us. We sat on the 
 little deck and watched them, 
 wondering what the woods we 
 should journey through would look like, and 
 whether the underbrush would always be as dense 
 and the trees so thick. Now and then we passed 
 Indians paddling easily with the current, or towing 
 their light canoes against the stream. About mid- 
 day one of the rudders broke loose and swung into 
 the stern paddle, breaking some of the buckets, so 
 that we were obliged to lie up by the bank and 
 effect repairs. The mosquitoes flocked out from 
 
 STEAMER ON ATHABASKA 
 
 ^ 
 
 li 
 
'. 1 
 
 ;J 
 
 FROM THE ATHABASKA LANDLXG 3 
 
 the bushes in thousands, and brought with them y 
 new tormentor, the bull-dog fly. This insect is 
 about the size of a bumble-bee, and indeed much 
 resembles one in appearance, but has also a 
 suggestion of the horse-fly about it. They flew 
 silently, and alighted so skilfully that one did not 
 notice them until they had already commenced the 
 attack. Then one felt a quick pain, as though some 
 sharp steel instrument had pierced the flesh ; and 
 even after the insect had been d.iven off, the blood 
 would continue to flow for several minutes. During 
 this halt an accident happened to one of our be- 
 longings that will delight any superstitious person 
 who has the endurance to follow our wanderings 
 and note our misfortunes, for we had broken a 
 looking-glass— the only one we had— on the first 
 day of our travels. I would not have mentioned 
 this apparently trivial incident had it not been that 
 several persons have seriously told me we got off 
 extremely easily after so evil an omen. That night 
 the stoamer was again moored to the bank near 
 an i 1 .amping-ground, where the native hands 
 '- ^- •' ''"'ni the writing on the trees that one 
 'Two accxts' had lately spent some days. On 
 the followmg day the river appeared shal'ower, 
 and about six hundred yards broad. Wo were 
 obliged to proceed with great cauiion r.mongst 
 the islands and sandbanks, so that it was not until 
 past midday that we came to the mouth of the 
 
 I 
 11' 
 
 
 I 
 
i 
 
 t 
 
 > 
 
 4 THE LAND OF THE MUSKEG 
 
 Lesser Slave River. There we met Mr. M'^Donakl, 
 the Hudson's Bay Company officer, in charge of 
 the Slave Lake Post. He had come down the 
 Slave River to meet the steamer which was to 
 carry the ' fur-kill ' of his district out to the landing, 
 and which brought him his winter's stores. Of 
 course he had no knowledge of our coming, and 
 was much surprised to see us, for, with the ex- 
 ception of Mr. Pike, we 
 were the first party in his 
 time who had travelled up 
 the country for their own 
 amusement. His crew of 
 Indians joined forces with 
 the steamer hands, and the 
 interchange of baggage 
 was soon effected, our 
 belongings being neatly 
 stored in the bottom of 
 his open boat, while the 
 business of the Company 
 It was pretty to watch the 
 way in which the men moved the fur bales, one 
 half-breed of the name of Brassand handling two- 
 hundred-and-fifty-pound packages with the greatest 
 ease and swiftness. After luncheon we said fare- 
 well to Mr. Livock, thanking him for his kindness, 
 and then the steamer turned down the river again 
 and disappeared round the bend, cutting off all com- 
 
 PASSING AN INIIIAN CAMl' 
 
 was being attended to 
 
 •wr 
 
 I 
 
 >^ 
 
FROM THH ATHABASKA LAXDIXG 5 
 
 munication with the outer world. Now at last 
 wp-felt that we had started, and that, come what 
 might, we had set our faces towards the unknown. 
 
 The sturgeon-head boat in which we were to 
 travel is one of the features of a country where 
 rivers are the only highways. There are but 
 three kinds of boats in the North-West,— the canoe, 
 the York boat, and the sturgeon-head. A sturgeon- 
 head somewhat resembles a canal barge, but is 
 broader of beam and draws less water, having also 
 a flattened bow, from which it derives its name. 
 This one was about forty feet long and eight feet 
 wide. We embarked and shoved off into the 
 stream, and then proceeded up the little river in 
 most picturesque fashion. The crew of ten stood 
 upon the thwarts and punted with long poles ; the 
 steersman, upon a platform in the stern, guided the 
 boat with an oar or sweep trailing behind ; whilst a 
 man in the bow, balancing a pole after the manner 
 of a tight-rope walker, pointed out the shoals and 
 shallows with either end as they appeared to the 
 right or left. After a time the current ran stronger, 
 and we disembarked the men, who proceeded to 
 tow us. Towing— or tracking, as it is called in the 
 North— brings up before the English mind pictures 
 of well-kept paths and neat white gates fitted with 
 easy springs. But the shores of the Slave River 
 can boast none of these advantages, the country 
 being thickly bushed and very rough ; and nowhere 
 
 I 4 
 
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 I 
 
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 \i 
 
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 7) 
 
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 7-, 
 
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 FROM THE ATHAHASKA LANDING 7 
 
 for a hundred consecutive yards is there good 
 going. 
 
 In tracking, two lines are used, three or four men 
 being harnessed to each rope. Behind them walics 
 another, whose duty it is to free the line when it 
 becomes caught in the bushes. These unfortunates 
 stumble along through the underbrush or bruise 
 their moccasined feet against the sharp rocks by 
 the water-side, often up to their waists in the river, 
 always leaning on the rope, and frequently almost 
 losing their balance when it gets entangled in 
 some twisted root. Hour after hour they go steadily 
 forward, only halting for food ; while the white 
 man in the boat smokes his pipe in whatever ci mount 
 of peace the mosquitoes allow him, and, protected 
 from the weather by tarpaulin and macintosh, idly 
 watches their labours. At first sight it seems 
 wonderful that any one can be found willing to 
 endure such slavery, but the men are well fed and 
 well paid, earning far better wages than their more 
 independent brothers who spend their life in fur- 
 hunting, in a country from which the greater part 
 of the game has long since disappeared. 
 
 We had no sooner started than the rain fell in 
 torrents, so that camp was not made under cheerful 
 auspices. Nevertheless that first supper of bread 
 and bacon tasted good, for we knew that every 
 step carried us farther into the wilds, and this 
 brought back more forcibly the old love for the 
 
 i ! 
 
 ,-.= r. 
 
^ 
 
 I , 
 
 I I ' 
 
 8 
 
 THIi: LAND Ol' THE MUSKEG 
 
 wilderness. The crew shot several owls near camp, 
 and this addition to their regulation meal seemed 
 to afford them immense satisfaction. The routine 
 of the day was as follows : A light and hasty 
 breakfast was taken at five before starting; at 8.30 
 a halt was made for a more serious meal, and again 
 at 12.30 for dinner. As a rule the men eat 
 again at five, and finally had supper in camp at nine. 
 In this fashion we moved up the little river until 
 the third day, when we reached the lake. As the 
 shore was swampy, we went on a little way and 
 made camp on a small island some miles from the 
 coast. The lake itself is about seventy-five miles 
 long, and from five to fifteen broad. It is a shallow 
 piece of water, lying in a low, swampy country, and 
 it is said that every year the shore encroaches, and 
 that the day is not far distant when the water-way 
 will become impassable for any but extremely small 
 boats. Be this as it may, the enormous expanse of 
 water stretching to the horizon is very impressive 
 in its utter desolation. Mr. McDonald told us that 
 the ice had only broken up about three weeks 
 before our coming, but not a vestige of it remained. 
 As the wind was directly contrary, it seemed 
 that we might have to wait some days before we 
 attempted to cross. However, we kept everything 
 in readiness for a sudden start in the night on the 
 chanct of a lull or a change in the weather. The 
 island where we were encamped swarmed with 
 
 
 •" f^ ^ -- 
 
FROM THE ATHAI5ASKA LANDING 9 
 
 sleigh dogs belonging to the Company and neioh- 
 bouring Indians. These animals will eat almost 
 anything, so we were compelled to hang the greater 
 part of our goods upon the trees, high enough to bt- 
 out of their reach. The lake is full of white fish, 
 which the Indians smoke and dry in native fashion • 
 and very excellent they are. Some were brought 
 to us, and, giving a few handfuls of tea in exchange, 
 we roasted them for supper. 
 
 The wind was still blowing a gale on the follow- 
 ing morning, so that we did not make a start until 
 well on in the day, and had onlv travelled about 
 tv.elve miles by evening. It was then too late to 
 cross the lake, and so that night we slept upon the 
 southern shore. On Wednesday the weather moder- 
 ated a little, but the waves still ran high, and the 
 rain fell in torrents. The men, however, rowed in 
 splendid style, and we made a late camp upon tlie 
 northern shore. The strength and endurance of 
 these men— both Indians and half-breeds-is quite 
 extraordinary. They are for the most part small 
 spare men, with slender arms and narrow chests, 
 yet they are able to work in the most wonderful 
 way, and to go on for any length of time. Each 
 oar of a sturgeon-head boat weighs about a hun- 
 dred pounds, being of great length and thickness, 
 but suddenly narrowing to the dimensions of an 
 ordinary oar towards the end, so that the men may 
 obtain a firm grasp with the hand. The rowers 
 
 t I- 
 
f 
 
 t^il) 
 
 lO 
 
 THI-: LAND Ol- THE MUSKEG 
 
 i:; t 
 
 f'» 
 
 place a pad under one foot, the \eg being held 
 nearly straight before them, with the other leg 
 beneath the seat, they rise to a standing position, 
 and then throwing their weight on the sweep, and 
 getting a sharp kick off from the pad, they sink back 
 to the bench, thus completing the stroke. As may 
 be imagined, this is no light work, but the men do 
 not seem to mind it, and will go on all day, and 
 sometimes all night, laughing and cheerful, so long 
 
 as the food is plentiful 
 and to their liking. 
 
 Towards the south 
 there lay a low table 
 mountain about two 
 thousand feet above the 
 lake ; it was the only hill 
 in the landscape, and, as 
 such, gained a certain dis- 
 tinction. But it appears 
 that it has a far greater 
 claim to reverence than one would be led to 
 suppose. For, according to Indian tradition, this 
 is the home of thunder. They say that upon it 
 there dwell many enormous birds ; now and again 
 they flap their wings with loud noise, and this is 
 what men rail thunder. As these immense creatures 
 never condescend to visit the plain, but remain for 
 ever upon the revered mountain, there is no legend 
 which would lead one to suppose that they have 
 
 ON'K OK Till-; tm-.w 
 
 •-'♦*- 
 
 ■^^H-— •'^" 
 
I'ROM THE ATHAHASKA LANDING 
 
 I I 
 
 ever appeared to mortals, but for many years the 
 fact of their existence was never doubted. I do 
 not imagine that any up-to-date Indian believes 
 or even considers these traditions. Christianity 
 has long since reached them, and they have lost 
 even the semblance of their former mythology. 
 Yet so strongly does the religion of one generatfon 
 affect the speech of another, that you will often 
 hear a man say, after a stormy night, that 'they 
 have been flapping a good deal.' 
 
 During the entire voyage the wind remained 
 contrary, and the rain swept down the lake in 
 drenching squalls, so that we were glad to find 
 shelter under a friendly tarpaulin, and there re- 
 mained huddled above the bilge in somewhat 
 dismal mood. On the third day we sighted land 
 towards the west, lying low and unbroken on the 
 horizon, but it was not until late in the afternoon 
 that we drew towards the shore. Once more under 
 the lea of the swamp our lives again became a bur- 
 den to us, for the mosquitoes seemed to scent our 
 approach and came out in unnumbered deputations 
 to welcome us. Until this time we had encountered 
 only the small grey mosquito, but it seemed that 
 its season was over, and that the reign of the 
 large yellow insect had come. This was of a 
 light brown or yellow colour and of immense size. 
 We measured the trunks of several specimens, which 
 we found to be a quarter of an inch long. Neither 
 
 It 
 
 -v 
 
 ( 
 
f 
 
 ! ^ 
 
 h^ 
 
 J! 
 
 f 
 
 13 
 
 THH LAND OI" TMI-: .MUSKi:r, 
 
 clothinj; nor thick gloves were any [jrotcction from 
 their attacks, and their boldness and recklessness 
 of life and limb made them almost unendurable. 
 The last part of our journey was along a shallow- 
 channel through the large swamp that lies below 
 the Fort — the haunt of innumerable ducks and 
 wild-fowl— and, turning slightly towards the north, 
 we unloaded the boats on the open shore in front of 
 the Slave Lake Post. This post is the metropolis 
 
 of the district, 
 being the 
 headquarters 
 of the Com- 
 pany for an 
 immense area 
 and the chief 
 trading - place 
 of the Cree- 
 speaking In- 
 dians in the 
 North-West. The names of the Company's 
 stations make a brave show upon the map, standing 
 out in such clear black type that the stranger 
 expects to find a city at least as large as Man- 
 chester, and might be excused if he expressed some 
 surprise upon seeing the place as it actually is. 
 At the Little Slave Lake Post, for instance, the 
 ' fort ' is a low log building, comfortable enough, 
 but not imposing. Near by are several barn-like 
 
 THE LAST OK OUK HOAT 
 
 .•.rt.'...>t 
 
' 
 
 ■BB 
 
 IRO.M Till' ATHAHASKA LANDING 
 
 ^3 
 
 Structures where the fur is sorted and stored ; a 
 little to the left stands the Catholic Mission and 
 small chapel ; a few sheds and paddocks, a corral 
 for the horses half hidden by the bush, and a 
 score or so of the roughest Indian shacks complete 
 one of the chief centres of industry in the North- 
 VVest. But small and cheerless as such places are, 
 the hospitable kindness of their inhabitants makes 
 one ever remember these little settlements with 
 pleasure. It is seldom that a stranger visits one of 
 these lonely posts, but when he does, he feels that 
 he has found a second home in a foreign land. We 
 passed a pleasant evening at the post with Mr. 
 M'^Donald's family, and then returned to our ramp 
 to fight off the insects and try to sleep. 
 
 On the following day we called upon the mis- 
 sionaries, and very pleasant fellows we found them. 
 One of them seemed to be in bad health, so we 
 turned the Doctor on to him and watched with 
 interest his treatment of the sick man. Now the 
 Doctor, although by no means a large man, had a 
 stentorian voice, and of this circumstance he seemed 
 inordinately proud. In all cases of emergency or 
 need he was in the habit of shouting his loudest, 
 and he roared out his questions and medical advice 
 in so savage a tone that the unfortunate priest 
 seemed to think that he had committed some mon- 
 strous crime in being ill, and had hardly the face 
 to describe his symptoms. 
 
T 
 
 14 
 
 THE T,AND OF THE MUSKEG 
 
 li: i 
 
 ■ 
 
 We were still about one hundred and thirty 
 mile': from Dunvegan, and had the following ar- 
 rangements to make : In />rimis, we were told that 
 it would b^ difficult to get pack-horses farther up 
 the country, so that we should be obliged to obtain 
 them at Slave Lake, where we then were. Secondly, 
 we had to get carriage for our goods as far as the 
 Peace River Crossing, by what is known as the 
 Slave Lake Road. But the Company's ox-train 
 was not due to start until tv. o days after our arrival, 
 so that thus far all was simple. Finally, we should 
 have to trust to luck and the missionaries on 
 the Peace River to convey us to Dunvegan, after 
 reaching which we should be independent of the 
 Company, and might set out through the bush with 
 the horses, in whatever direction we chose. Of 
 course, if the missionaries failed us, we could march 
 with the pack-train to Dunvegan, but we knew 
 that we could travel more rapidly with a wagon, 
 Ci iving the horses unpacked before us. 
 
 Mr. APDonald had given orders that the horses 
 should be brought in from the range for our 
 inspection, so we all adjourned to the corral and 
 there spent the greater part of the day. Finally, 
 we bought nine horses for four hundred and ninety 
 dollars, small hardy-looking animals, and well up to 
 weight. We knew that we should require more 
 for the rough work in the bush, but we had taken 
 all we fancied, and Mr. McDonald told us that 
 
 e 
 
 o 
 
 EH 
 
 iz; 
 o 
 
 iz; 
 o 
 
 Q 
 
F • f 
 
 ,, 
 
 •iif ? 
 
MB 
 
 I 
 
 FROM THE ATHARASKA LANDING 
 
 15 
 
 though we should be certain to get a few animals 
 on the Peace River to carry the extra burdens, we 
 could not count upon finding enough to make a 
 pack-train. And this turned out as he had pre- 
 dicted. 
 
 But most important of all, we had still to find an 
 
 Indian who should combine the skill of a hunter 
 
 with some sort of knowledge of the unexplored 
 
 country through which we proposed to travel. 
 
 Round knew the natives well, and said that one 
 
 Daukhan Tustowits, a famous hunter, was just the 
 
 man we wanted. He told us that if we could 
 
 only find this man the success of the expedition 
 
 would be assured, but that we might have ^rreat 
 
 difficulty in discovering his whereabouts, as he 
 
 would certainly be away hunting in the bush. If 
 
 he were within reach at all, it was probable that 
 
 he would be somewhere in the Peace River country; 
 
 and so it was settled that Round and Pollen oukl 
 
 ride on to the river and send out men to scour the 
 
 country for him. They were to take food with 
 
 them upon a pack-horse, and make what haste they 
 
 could, so that by the time the main party arrived 
 
 they would know whedier they were likely to get 
 
 him or not, and thus the expedition would be 
 
 delayed as short a time as possible. Ramsey, the 
 
 Doctor, and I were to follow on horseback with the 
 
 ox-train, driving the pack-horses with the assistance 
 
 of one John Knot, a half-breed herder and doo-- 
 
m 
 
 i6 
 
 THE LAND OI' THE MUSKEC, 
 
 < t 
 
 t . 
 
 ly." '' 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 sleigh driver of the Company's, This plan seemed 
 excellent, but we had forgotten one thing. The 
 Doctor was no equestrian, and did not look forward 
 to a riding lesson over nearly one hundred miles of 
 rough road with any pleasure. Of course, travelling 
 with the ox-train, we should not go beyond a foot- 
 pace, but still he showed a very natural distaste for 
 so unwonted an exercise. We were told that the 
 road was at all times atrocious, and at this season 
 
 of the year in particularly bad 
 condition, and he could hardly 
 be expected to jolt for so long 
 a journey in a springless ox- 
 wagon. Mr. M'^Donald, how- 
 ever, again came to our rescue, 
 saying that he would himself 
 drive the Doctor in his light 
 car^ and thus get us out of 
 our difficulty. To this kind 
 proposal our inimitable medical adviser gave his 
 assent, saying that he did not mind in the least. 
 
 Having secured the necessary number of gunny 
 sacks to supply deficiencies in the matter of 
 saddle-blankets we were ready to set out. The 
 sturgeon-head and Indian crew were once more 
 requisitioned, and we moved round the last curve 
 of the Lake, and camped amidst the ox-carts at 
 the extreme west end, ready for the march on 
 the morrow. There we visited IMr. Holmes, the 
 
 A NATIVK 
 
FROM THE ATHABASKA LANDING 
 
 17 
 
 Anglican missionary, and his family, and talked 
 of the old country and of our present surroundings. 
 Of course, all Anglican missionaries in this country 
 are to a certain extent poachers. The country is 
 without doubt Cau.olic— that is, in so far as it may 
 be said to be Christian at all ; and the unnecessary 
 rivalry of sects must do much towards confusino- the 
 smiple-minded native. It may be answered that 
 two good things are better than one, and I do not 
 deny it for a moment. Mr. 
 Holmes is a model missionary, 
 and the pity of the thing is, 
 that they are not all like him. 
 But the fact that in many 
 places the Indians are Pro- 
 testant in the winter when 
 the times are hard, and Ca- ^ 
 tholic when there is nothing 
 to be gained, is somewhat 
 startlinpf. 
 
 We were up betimes next morning, and Pollen 
 and Round got their kit together for their flying 
 ride. At twelve, after a hasty lunch, they set off at 
 a sharp trot ; and about a couple of hours later the 
 ox-train began to get under v/ay. Each animal 
 drew a two-wheeled cart, and was tied^to the tail of 
 the cart before him, so that one man was able 
 to manage four or five carts, and by leading the 
 foremost ox could direct a small procession. In 
 
 B 
 
 A u.\LK-iiKi;i;i) 
 
^ i 
 
 i8 
 
 THE LAND OF THIL MUSKI'G 
 
 ,/ ' 
 
 I 
 
 !''. 
 
 I 
 
 addition to the fourteen small carts there was a 
 wagon drawn by four oxen, and another to which 
 four horses were harnessed. The wagons moved 
 off first, then came the ox-train, then a single 
 cart in which the whole of John Knot's family 
 travelled, sheltered from the sun by green branches, 
 and finally, Ramsey and I brought up the rear on 
 horseback, driving our newly purchased animals 
 before us. The whole country was covered with 
 a dense forest of poplar and cotton-wood, so that 
 one could see but a few yards to the right d*- left. 
 The branches met overhead, and the road beneath 
 was an oozy swamp of black mud untouched by 
 the sun. Great pits and dykes furrowed its sur- 
 face, and were filled to the brim with the staQ-nant 
 water. Through these the wagons pitched and 
 swam like ships in a heavy sea, now falling 
 on the brink of disaster, then again righting, 
 and again all but overturning on the other side. 
 The loud creaking of the wheels filled the air. 
 Far away in the front of the long line a root or 
 hole w'ould jolt some wagon, making the axles 
 scream ; as we approached we could hear the loud 
 cry coming ever nearer, as cart after cart en- 
 countered the obstacle, and all the while the whole 
 train lumbered along irroaningf. 
 
 When we passed through the swamp great clouds 
 of mosquitoes llew out upon us. The necks and 
 shoulders of the horses were grey with them, and 
 
FROM THE ATHADASKA LANDING 
 
 19 
 
 ran blood from the bites of the bull-doo; flies. As we 
 marched at a foot-pace, we had not made more 
 than five miles by camping-time. On the following 
 morning we made a very early start, and soon passed 
 the ox-train. Charley, the head of the Hudson Bay 
 Company's transport on this road, an old hand at 
 
 srUCK IN A SWAMl' 
 
 the work, drove the horse-wagon and came ahead 
 with us. Here and there we crossed little open 
 meadows, and it was in one of these that the 
 wagon became hopelessly bogged. The team 
 could not draw it out of the mud-hole, so we 
 unhitched the horses and waited for the coming of 
 the oxen. On their arrival we harnessed five oxen 
 
fei) 
 
 20 
 
 THF, LAND OF THI': MUSKEG 
 
 J:,' 
 
 f f 
 
 r 1^ f 
 
 
 l'^ •; 
 
 t f 
 
 1 
 
 ''M 
 
 w^sd 
 
 in front of the four horses, and urgin_Lj them for- 
 ward with whip and voice tried to move the wagon. 
 Charley, erect upon the box, cracked his long stock 
 whip over the struggling animals ; an Indian stood 
 at the head of the leaders trying to keep them 
 to the road, whilst the remainder of the party 
 belaboured the oxen with heavy sticks. But the 
 wagon did not move. The panting teams swerved 
 and slipped in the mud, and finally collapsed in a 
 heap in a shallow pool by the roadside. We tried 
 again and again, till the coats of the eight beasts 
 were white with lather, but did not succeed in 
 drawing the wagon to firm ground for nearly two 
 hours. 
 
 On the following day Mr. A^Donald and the 
 Doctor overtook us, and we travelled all day to- 
 gether in torrents of rain. The flies nearly drove 
 us mad, so that we were forced to wave green 
 branches round our heads continually as we rode, 
 in a vain attempt to drive them off. On the third 
 day we camped near another outfit — that of a free 
 trader named Riviere, the sworn enemy of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company. He had with him two 
 Belgians, whose conduct was strange in the ex- 
 treme. It appeared that one of them asked the 
 other to fetch a bucket of water. He accordingly 
 started towards the swamp to do so, but returned 
 saying that he would not fetch water in a pail 
 which he considered improperly cleaned. Upon 
 
I'ROM THK aTHAIUSKA LANDING 
 
 21 
 
 this there ensued a fiery discussion on the subject 
 of pails, so that the Bel^nans nearly came to blows. 
 However, they decided to lay their case before La 
 Riviere, and allow him to decide whether the pail 
 was clean or no. Now La Riviere was sitting" 
 in his tent talking- to a venerable Catholic mis 
 sionary, who happened to be goin_(r over the road 
 in his caravan, when they entered, bucket in hand. 
 
 ' IlliKIi AM) 'lilKKE UK ( AMK Tl) .S.MA1,L I'UAlKll.s' 
 
 But it was all to no purpose. Before either had 
 stated his case a paroxysm of fury seized both 
 young men, and they began to fight, using the 
 prostrate bodies of the free trader and the mission- 
 ary as their battle-ground. The tent was small, 
 and the view of the interior during the next few 
 moments suggested a human kaleidoscope. 
 
 Here and there we came to small prairies a mile 
 or so across, where the ground was firm ; but 
 for the most part we continued to travel through 
 
 i 
 
 s 
 

 T 
 
 hi 
 
 22 
 
 Till- LAND OI" Tllli Ml'SKI'd 
 
 ■i: > 
 
 J,l 
 
 }■■ 
 
 I.' <' 
 
 If 
 
 ' ' I 
 
 swampy woods. Now for the first time we made 
 the acciLiaintance of the muskeg swamp, and from 
 this time forward hardly a day passed to the end of 
 the journey when we did not curse this particular 
 abomination. At first sight a muskeg seems no 
 very terrible affair. Green spongy moss covers 
 the ground, whilst here and there lie small pools 
 of clear water. One realises that the moss is soft 
 and wet, and that the travelling may be heavy, but 
 nothing more. But no sooner have you set foot 
 upon its treacherous surface than the thing becomes 
 more serious. The beautiful green moss seems 
 to catch your foot as in a vice, and to rise 
 swiftly towards you. When a man faints he 
 somef.mies imagines that the ground has risen up 
 and struck him ; this is exactly the sensation of 
 him who walks in a muskeg. You feel that you 
 must quickly take another step before it is too late, 
 and so you plod on, and soon you tire. In point of 
 fact there is little danger of being sucked down, 
 but the place has a most melancholy look. Nothing 
 else on earth can be so vividly green and yet 
 so utterly desolate. 
 
 Several times we saw skunks upon the road, and 
 indeed John Knot contrived to kill one — a most 
 difficult job, as no one dares come to close 
 quarters with these small and inoffensive-looking 
 animals on account of the fearful stench which they 
 are capable of emitting when provoked. The 
 
 it 
 
FROM THl- ATHAHASKA LANDIXC 
 
 23 
 
 distance to which tht;y can throw the stinking- llujtl 
 is remarkable, and their aim unfailing. Any gar- 
 ment which they even sprinkle must immediately 
 be thrown away, and the man who wore it is no 
 welcome guest for many days afterwards. 
 
 John was a most pleasant companion, and had 
 a mightily quaint way of expressing his ideas. 
 He was also a very hard worker, with a high 
 character for honesty. Besides his other accom- 
 plishments he spoke Cree like a 
 native, and understood the lan- 
 guage of the Beaver Indians, ^ 
 through whose country we were 71 
 to pass. We were already short- 
 handed for so long an expedition, 
 and so when I met Pollen at the 
 crossing, he needed little per- 
 suasion to agree that it w^ould be 
 best to engage John to join our party. 
 
 The flies were so troublesome in the evenings 
 that I was often obliged to make a small fire, or 
 smudge, as it is called, and sit in the smoke when 
 writing up my journal ; but even when so uncom- 
 fortably situated, and with gloved hands, I could 
 hardly write two words without stopping to crush 
 some bold insect which had found the seams in 
 the gloves, and had already commenced his meal. 
 
 A TYl'K 
 
 I f,l 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
n 
 
 L^i '' * 
 
 I, * 
 
 H 
 
 , ! 
 
 \i ' 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 THE PEACE RIVER 
 
 On the seventh day after leaving the Lake we 
 sighted the great Peace River. We had been 
 travelling on a plateau sloping gently towards the 
 north-west ; but now the land sank down rapidly 
 to the river at a sharp angle, and we stood upon 
 
 bold bluffs 
 overlook ing 
 the plain. Be- 
 low us lay the 
 mighty river, 
 winding ma- 
 j e s t i c a 1 1 y 
 amongst the 
 little hills and 
 prairies. Mile 
 after mile of 
 thickly timbered rolling country stretched out 
 before us in great sweeping lines of hill and valley. 
 Towards the south-west, where the Smoky River 
 joined the Peace, a great curtain of blue haze shut 
 out the view. No white man, and but few Indians, 
 
 2-t 
 
 FIRST VIKW OF TIIK I'liAClC 
 
 ^ 
 
 fe- 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ) 
 
 ' 
 
 M 
 
I 
 
 J 
 
 THE Pi'Aci-: ri\i:r 
 
 25 
 
 liavc ever penetrated this country, or solved the 
 mystery of this perpetual smoke ; but it is tiiou-^ht 
 that a burning coal-mine must exist upon the river- 
 bank, as no sign of volcanic action has ever been 
 observed in the surrounding district. The Indians 
 give the place a very wide berth, but one more 
 bold than his fellows once confessed to me that he 
 had explored the region, and gave a picturesque if 
 not entirely scientific account of v.hat he saw. He 
 .'.lid that the ground was hot and scorched, but 
 that he could perceive no noise or subterranean 
 rumbling. Upon drawing near to the centre of 
 activity, the smoke, he said, jumped up at him 'like 
 a man from his bed.' We moved down the slope, 
 and presently came to the river-bank, where we 
 found Round and Pollen settled in a small log cabin, 
 ihn property of the Company. They were full of 
 tales of the road, and gave us graphic descriptions 
 of their forced march. On the first half-day they 
 had covered twenty miles, and had done the 
 remaining eighty in the two following days. What 
 with the flies and the incessant rain they had had a 
 pretty hard time. They had taken no tent with 
 them, but contented themselves with the laro-e 
 piece of canvas or tent-fly, and so had been but 
 scantily sheltered from the rain. Whilst in Edmon- 
 ton we had purchased square coffin-like mosquito- 
 nets ; but, as we always slept in the tent, we had 
 only used them to block the door the more effec- 
 
 , I 
 
 1 'I 
 
II 
 
 26 
 
 THIL LAND OI- Till-: MUSKI'(} 
 
 ■tl 
 
 f. i- 
 
 •' 
 
 !' 
 
 1 1, 
 
 i 
 
 I ( 
 
 tually. Round and Pollen, however, had been 
 tentless, and therefore pitched the nets each night. 
 and were loud in their praise. Every man in the 
 country, Indian or white, uses these com 'ivances 
 if he is rleeping- in the open, for the alternative of 
 lying between fires of damp logs is by no means 
 attractive. When the Indian is pitchmg with his 
 tepe he is safe from t!ie attacks of insects, as a fire 
 is always kept burning in the centre of the lodge. 
 But when he rests in the open he uses die pro- 
 tective net, even if it costs him a half c ^ his worldly 
 wealth. 
 
 We found that our advanced guard had been by 
 no means idle. They had ^ent out a man named 
 Akinum to look for Daukhan Tustowits, and bv 
 threat u'ood fortune he had found him. Vkinmn 
 himself had already returned, and Daukhan had 
 promise'! to be with us in a few days. They had 
 also visited the Smoky River Mission, on the far 
 nide of the Peace, and \\ A secured a wagon and 
 th*^ services of a lay brother for the journey to 
 Dunvegan. The brother had promised to call for 
 us at the house r!" a half-breed named Pat, or: the 
 other side of the river, and it had been arranged 
 that Ramsey, the Doctor, and I should take our 
 possessions up to the ?>Iission, whilst Pollen and 
 Round were t) take the horses cross the river 
 with whatever native help the'^ coukl muster. 
 
 The Peace River is here about thirteen hundred 
 
 i 
 
 '**>'W '• 
 
^^^^mmf^mm 
 
 ■Mm 
 
 mmmmmmmsm^mimm 
 
 
 f 
 
 *i 
 
 rHK pi<:ace iuwim 
 
 27 
 
 feet \v;de, with an eioht-mile current, and Is said to be 
 very deep, Tlie water is so muddy that one can hear 
 the sand hiss in the stream, and even a bucketful 
 will make a sHght noise when freshly drawn. Our 
 first move was 10 take tlxe goods across. 'J^he only 
 available scow, a punt-like boat, leaked alarmingly, 
 and it seemed hardly safe to load it with the whole 
 of our possessions, which weiglied nearly twenty- 
 five hundred pounds. However, we knew that it 
 was getting late, and that we should only be able to 
 make one trip before nightfall, so we 
 piled our stores and goods into the 
 ferry, and hunted the neighbourhood 
 for Indian help. Akanan, an Indian 
 called Piddlicks (the native rendering 
 of Frederick), and a half-witted man 
 named Monias, were pressed into our 
 service, and soon we were ready to 
 start. After many adieus to Charley, and expres- 
 sions of gratitude to Mr. M'Donald, we set out 
 for the farther shore. 
 
 On account of the swiftness of the river we were 
 forced to go up the stream for more than a mile 
 before we le^t the bank, and very arduous work it 
 was; but finally we decided that we might safely 
 turn acros.s, and in a moment were whirlino- in the 
 swift current. A man who has nev(.'- rowed in 
 rapid waters can have no idea of the teeling of 
 utter helplessness which comes over one at such a 
 
 ^!oMAS 
 

 1 
 
 '#.'\r 
 
 m- 
 
 28 
 
 Till'. LAM) OI- Till' MLSKllC, 
 
 ft?' • ' 
 ■ t 
 
 time. Tho whole landscape seemed to spin by us 
 at an alarmint^ rate, and row as we might, we could 
 make no headway against the current. Here and 
 there we saw huge pine-trees floating down the river. 
 Now and again some undercurrent would catch 
 them, and they would rear sixty feet of their length 
 clear out of the water, as though upheld by some 
 giant hand, and then fall without warning, making 
 a mighty splash. The least touch of one of 
 these would have sent our frail craft to the bottom, 
 and our own chances of safety or rescue would 
 have been slioht indeed. 
 
 At last, after a fearful struggle, we came to calmer 
 water, and landed opposite Pat's cabin in a very 
 exhausted condition. Pat, who was a mild-faced 
 half-breed, did not seem the least disturbed at see- 
 ing us, and when we told him that we intended to 
 spend the night in his cabin, expressed no surprise, 
 but simply sat on his door-stef) whilst we made our- 
 selves comfortable in his mansion. I do not think 
 he had any objections to our coming, but I am bound 
 to say that we calmly took possession without ask- 
 ing his leave. He would have been astonished 
 if we had done so. He sal on the door-step 
 while we cooketl our supper on his stove, until \\\t 
 felt obliged to entreat him to come in and share 
 it, as if W(j had been the hosts and he the guest. 
 The three men who had lu:lped us across the river 
 now came up for payment, st* \vc wrote cheques 
 
nil': I'luvcr: ri\'i:k 
 
 29 
 
 on the Hudson's Bay Company for so m my 'skins' 
 apiece, and then remain^xl talking to thjm for some 
 
 1 1 
 
 ill 
 
 we 
 
 irc 
 
 St. 
 
 vcr 
 
 ACS 
 
 J 4*" -aBfe!: 
 
 imim*- t ^vt™r •■■-- ~ t9"v^^ ^i: 
 
 M. II. KnlM) 
 
 time. Poor liaif-witted Monias told us stories of 
 his unfortunate and almost sui)ernatural powers, 
 which, though e.xtraordinary, are quite unprintable. 
 
I^i-i! 
 
 30 
 
 THI': LAND Ol- THIi MLSKF.G 
 
 
 That night we slept on Pat's floor under our mos- 
 quito-nets, which gave the little room the appear- 
 ance of a laundress's drying-yard. On the following 
 morning the lay brother came down with the wagon, 
 into which we packed our goods, and then Ramsey, 
 the Doctor, and I started towards the Mission, 
 leaving Pollen and Round to cross and the horses 
 to follow next morning. Our driver, who was a 
 Frenchman, and an exceedingly pleasant fellow, told 
 us all he l;new of the land and the climate, and 
 made the journey very agreeable for us. 
 
 Never have I seen such a glorious country as we 
 now travelled over. On our left we could see the 
 mighty river flowing between the dark pine-trees, 
 wooded hills and sweeps of green prairie extending 
 on all sides, covered with countless flowers, and 
 acres of blood-red lilies ; while thickets of saska- 
 toon, raspberry and gooseberry bushes, were banked 
 up against the timber. After a while we descended 
 into the river-bottom again, and stopped at the 
 house of one Mackenzie, where the Doctor attended 
 a patient. Then we went forward a little way and 
 made our camp near the Mission. The priests and 
 Mackenzie have cultivated a considerable portion 
 of the valley, which is exceptionally fertile. But it 
 is said that it is very difiicult to grow anything upon 
 the beautiful plain above on account of the early 
 frosts. The notes to be found on the maps of 
 the country are emphatic in their praise of the 
 
THI-: pi:aci-: ri\hk 
 
 31 
 
 ! 
 
 soil, which is undoubtedly fine ; but if the experi- 
 ence of the inhabitants is to be relied upon, the 
 whole area fit for cultivation only comprises a 
 few small river-side Hats in many thousands of 
 square miles. There has lately been a great 
 'boom' about the Peace River. Mr. Pike'' has 
 already done his best to prick the bubble, but I 
 have heard so many ignorant people aver that this 
 IS a great farming country, that I think these facts 
 cannot be too often repeated. It is a dreadful 
 thing to think of the wretched emigrants who toil 
 to this promised land only to find a useless country, 
 and who are often unable to return to civilisation! 
 but are forced to endure all the severities of the 
 winter in a lattitude where the temperature has 
 often fallen to si.xty degrees below zero. 
 
 The missionaries, Peres Xerc. Husson. and La 
 Treste. were kindness itself, making us presents of 
 milk and butter, and allowing us to camp before 
 their door by the banks of the Peace. The news 
 that we had a great medicine-man in the outfit 
 -spread fast, and soon our camp became a sort of 
 hospital. Ghastly old hags hung round our fire, 
 whilst maimed men and sick children stood silently 
 watching us, waiting to be cured. The natives pu'i 
 great faith in the 'medicine' of the white man. and 
 believe that every Hudson's Bay Company's officer 
 is a past master of the art. So great is their faith, 
 that when the medicine-chest is exhausted they are 
 
 m 
 
.1 M 
 
 32 
 
 THI:: LAND OF THE MUSKEG 
 
 s ' 
 
 w 
 
 .>. 
 
 If 
 
 v*. / 
 
 PAT 
 
 often completely cured of minor ailments after 
 taking a tumbler of dissolved tooth-powder or some 
 such harmless compound. I very 
 much doubt if the doctor's remedies 
 were as successful, for they were 
 made up in small tablets and 
 globules, very convenient for travel- 
 ling indeed, but then they lacked the 
 unpleasant taste and bulk which the 
 sick of the district believed to be indispensable to 
 a complete cure. 
 
 On Sunday Pollen and Round came up from 
 ' The Crossing ' with the pack-horses, having had 
 hard work on the previous evening ferrying them 
 across the river. They told us that Daukhan 
 
 Tustowits was already at 
 the river-bank, and he 
 rode up in the morning, 
 accompanied by John 
 Knot. Daukhan was a 
 small wiry man about 
 forty years of age, with 
 thin black hair upon his 
 chin. The pure Indian 
 grows little or no hair on his face ; but Daukhan 
 had white blood, and indeed somewhat resembled 
 the ideal French cavalry officer in appearance. His 
 manners were perfect, and the neatness of his 
 speeches, which Round interpreted, was beyond 
 
 liAUlvHAN 
 
THi: I'KACi-: ri\i:r 
 
 33 
 
 praise. Of course he had no English, but spoke in 
 the soft and beautiful Cree lani^uage, and with the 
 assistance of Round we carried on a long conversa- 
 tion with him. Daukhan said that bears were very 
 plentiful, and that he thought it would be a good 
 hunting year, as the saskatoon bushes would bear 
 a large crop of berries. He approved of our plan 
 of march, saying that he knew the greater part 
 of the country which we proposed to explore, and 
 that although he had never crossed the Rockies by 
 the Pine Pass he had no doubt he could find the 
 way. 
 
 During the afternoon Mr. Gunn,the Hudson's Bay 
 Company's officer at Fort St. John, rode into camp. 
 He had been paying a visit to Mr. Brick, the 
 Anglican missionary, close at hand, and he proposed 
 that we should go and call upon him. The Mission 
 lay near the river, within three or four miles of the 
 Catholic church ; and so, as the day was Sunday, 
 we thought it best to ride without our rifies, in case 
 we might break in upon some open-air service and 
 seem too mundane to His Reverence. The trail was 
 open and smooth, and the leaves of the young 
 poplar-trees glittered wonderfully in the sunshine. 
 Away up the valley we could see the fences and 
 ploughed fields of the Anglican Mission, but the 
 house was still hidden from us by the bush. 
 Suddenly we heard a loud crash in the under- 
 growth. The most inexperienced 'tender-foot' could 
 
 c 
 
 i 
 

 J" 
 
 A' 
 
 I 
 
 ill. 
 
 i 
 
 4 » I 
 
 I 
 
 'I' 
 
 34 
 
 THI' LAND or THE MUSKEG 
 
 have told in an instant what was the cause of the 
 commotion. When a horse or a cow is stampeded, 
 it rushes headlong- forward, but to a certain extent 
 it avoids small trees and dead branches ; a bear, 
 however, crashes throusfh the bush without a 
 moment's hesitation. We had hardly reined in our 
 horses when the animal appeared. It was a black 
 bear of immense size, standing nearly twelve hands 
 high at the shoulder. He swung along at a lumber- 
 ing canter within a few yards of us, but through our 
 silly desire to please the missionary we had left 
 our rifles behind and could do nothing. The shiny 
 coat of the huge brute was wringing wet, and 
 he seemed much exhausted, so th..it we made sure 
 that he had only just crossed the river. Shouting 
 to Mr. Gunn to ride forward and try and head off 
 the bear, we turned our horses and raced back to 
 camp for our rifles, but when we returned the bear 
 had disappeared. Mr. Gunn said that the animal 
 had been so exhausted that it could hardly move, 
 and that he had ridden alongside of it for a con- 
 siderable distance. But finally it had escaped him 
 in some thick undergrowth, and had made for the 
 hill. Half-way up it had b- jn obliged to rest, 
 hanging out its tongue and panting like a dog, but 
 finally it had recovered sufficiently to proceed, and 
 had made off towards the timber on the upland. 
 We knew that it would be useless to attempt to 
 follow it, as the ground was hard, and it would have 
 
 " 
 
V 
 
 THli PKACF- UIVKR 
 
 35 
 
 left no tracks. Before long, however, we discovered 
 the place where it had landed after crossing the 
 river, and found the great foot-marks of the huge 
 animal in the mud. The Peace was particularly 
 broad and fast at this spot, so that it was no wonder 
 that the bear was exhausted ; and we turned our 
 horses towards the Mission again, feeling very cheap, 
 and sorry for ourselves, 
 
 John Gough Brick was standing at the door of 
 his house when we rode up. He wore a large pair 
 of moccasins on his feet, blue overalls covered his 
 legs, surmounted by a long black frockcoat, a 
 grey flannel shirt and a celluloid collar, Mr, Brick 
 was kindness itself, entertaining us with a jovial 
 hospitality that was past praise, and with a fund 
 of Rabelaisian anecdote marvellous in its steady 
 volume. I have heard that he has gained for 
 himself quite a reputation as a raconteur in this 
 particular line. And there can be no doubt that 
 few ministers of the Church of England have so 
 full and varied a vocabulary of purely secular 
 language. 
 
 He has a large farm near the river, which, as 
 he told me, had been started as a school of Agricul- 
 ture for the Indians. The game is fast disappear- 
 ing from the country, and unless the natives are 
 taught to raise crops and till the land, they will 
 undoubtedly starve. But as Mr. Brick boisterously 
 observed, ' I don't allow any of those damned 
 
Jh 
 
 Ih 
 
 
 I 
 
 U'. 
 
 m^'i' 
 
 'V'^l 
 
 
 I 
 
 w 
 
 36 
 
 I III". LAND OI" rill' MISKMG 
 
 Indians round wi' place' He lias not even a 
 rudimentary Unowledsj^c of the lan<;ua_<,re of his 
 con<'rciration, and so would be (luite unable to 
 preach in the native tonoue, ev(;n if he hatl a mind 
 to. But he has resided at the Mission for some 
 years, and he told me quite seriously that ' he knew 
 the Cn:e for bread.' 
 
 The Mission is, I believe, not financed by the 
 Church of F. upland Missionary Society, although 
 the liishop of Athabaska retains his hold over the 
 
 place, which will return to 
 the Society upon the death 
 or retirement of the present 
 occupant. 
 
 Mr. Brick is, without 
 doubt, a most capable and 
 enerp^etic farmer, but he 
 has, of course, no market 
 for his produce, and so, 
 althouL^h he can almost 
 make a living' by his own 
 industry, he cannot make sufficient to carry on the 
 good work amongst the heathen {/.c. Catholic). Ac- 
 cordingly, from time to time he makes pilgrimages to 
 England, and there collects funds. If this gentleman 
 appeared in the old country saying : ' I am an ex- 
 cellent farmer ; I am a pioneer in a savage land ; I 
 am an honest man, who works to support a wife and 
 family. My life is hard, but I am opening up a 
 
 JOHN KNOT 
 
 
nil'. I'i'Aci': ri\i:r 
 
 9-7 
 
 new centre for iniinii^n'ation,' no one could luuc^ 
 anything- to say against the proceedini;-, althoiiL;h 
 Mr. Hrick nii^ht not ac(iuire as mucli money 
 as he tlocs .it present. lUit when on(? thinks 
 of the needy people, who with many a stru<;Lile 
 have subscribed their pittance that poor savay^es 
 may gain knowledge and hear the gos[)el, the case 
 alters consideral)ly. I<"or my own part, I beli(;ve 
 that more ffood miuht be done nearer home bv the 
 outlay of the same money ; and to me it seems 
 particularly absurd to ket;p ministers of religion in 
 a foreign land simply to convert the renmants of a 
 dying race to Protestantism, when the Catholics 
 have already made th<'m about as Christian as they 
 are capable of being. However, it was impossible 
 to know Mr. F>rick and be angry with the man; he 
 was so plausible and so amusing that one forgot 
 his faults in laughing at his sallies and highly 
 seasoned humour. 
 
 As there were many pigs and cattle round the 
 place, we agreed to buy a calf from him. in order 
 that we might lean as lightly as possible ui)on 
 our provisions on the road to Dunvegan. Then 
 we said ' Good-bye ' and returned to our camp. 
 We had already hired another wagon from 
 Mackenzie, so that we were ready to start, 
 which we did upon th(; following morning. We 
 rode, driving our pack-horses, whilst the Doctor 
 drove beside the lay brother, and Mackenzie's 
 

 m 
 
 .< I 
 
 /•I 
 
 ■A 
 
 H 
 
 38 
 
 Till-: LAND 01- Till-: MlSKia. 
 
 boy brouj^ht on his own vvae^on behind. Round 
 and Pollen went down to Brick's with one pack- 
 horse to fetch away the calf which Mr. Brick had 
 promised to kill for us, arrangint^ to meet us at 
 luncheon-time upon the trail. They arrived at the 
 Mission, and were shown the carcass of the calf 
 han'nntr in the slau<ducr-house. Now this buildinfj 
 stood within a log palisade, fourteen feet high and 
 wonderfully solid. We had com[)limented Mr. 
 Brick upon his meat-safe on the previous evening, 
 and had examined the structure, being much struck 
 with its strength and careful construction. Pollen 
 was not up in the details of the butcher's trade, but 
 Round had had much experience during his long 
 residence in the country, and therefore did not 
 fail to remark that the liver, brains, and sweet- 
 bread were absent from their accustomed places, 
 which fact he pointed out to Mr. Brick. This 
 gentleman was loud in his apologies, saying that he 
 was more sorry than words could express, but that 
 a dog must have jumped over the palisade during 
 the night and carried off these portions. The 
 thing was of no importance to us, but I give it 
 as an example of the high intelligence and great 
 activity of the Indian dog. 
 
 The trail was good, and we marched on at a 
 rapid pace until lunch time. But we had hardly 
 commenced to cook the veal when we were joined 
 by an Indian, named Nistamapu, who seemed 
 
 
■ 
 ■ 
 
 THIv PI- AC!' RIVl'R 
 
 39 
 
 passionately devoted to calf. After the meal he 
 came and rode with us, discoursing loudly ui)on the 
 country and the chances of game by the roadside. 
 He was by profession an orator, and made his 
 living by attaching himself to camps where there 
 was plenty of food. He would eat his fill and then 
 deliver speeches, and would remain with his en- 
 tertainers until their stock of provisions (or forbear- 
 ance) was exhausted, when he would suddenly 
 make up his mind to 
 depart. He had been 
 born on the plains, and 
 so could tell the wood- 
 land Indians many 
 stories of blood and 
 adventure and of the 
 departed glories of his 
 race. When a band of 
 Indians from the plains 
 comes to the camp of a 
 different tribe, they halt, and send one of their 
 number forward, who sits down by the lire, and is 
 in fact a sort of pledge of good faith. Our friend 
 had been born just as such a herald had entered 
 the lodge, and so had been called Nistamapu — the 
 first to sit down. That night we camped by a 
 marshy pool, named Old Wives' Lake, where the 
 water was almost too nasty to drink. Nistamapu 
 evidendy intended to clear us out of food as quickly 
 
 
 NISTAMArf 
 
r 
 
 
 l'\ 
 
 ■m 
 
 i(SHH" 
 
 MvaiB 
 
 T 
 
 40 
 
 rni' I AM) oi' Tiir: Mrs'«:i':(; 
 
 
 t 
 
 
 n 
 
 I' ■'* 
 
 
 a:; po;isii)le, for he ate enormously. In this he was 
 joinijd by Mackenzie's relative, who drove our 
 second waL^on. and whom we named the Gluttonous 
 Bov. The da\ s were w'arm, but the nitrhts ver\'^ 
 chilly ; the most[uitoes, however, did nol appear 
 to feel the cold, and hummed round our nets in 
 hundreds. On the second dav out from the Mission 
 we met Mr. Tait, the Hudson's Bay Company officer 
 at Dunvci^an, and bought two more horses. 
 Torrents of rain fell all tlie afternoon, hut we 
 pushed forward and arrived at 
 Dunveiian about ten on the foUov/- 
 
 ■■'■ \.-^h^'»^' 
 
 ■I 
 
 ing morning. We had imagined 
 
 A 
 
 ^^ 
 
 7- 
 
 -w 
 
 Al.HEKT TAir 
 
 that it was about twelve o'clock, 
 but found that we had mistaken 
 the hour, and started at three in 
 the morning by accident. Mr. 
 Tait lent us a room in his house, 
 where we slept, and very glad we were of this 
 friendly shelter, for the rain fell contmuously. 
 
 Fort Dunvegan is a charming little place, lying 
 cloje to the river between high bluffs. Round had 
 i'ved there for fourteen \ears as a Hudson's Bay 
 Comptny officer in charge, and was quite devoted 
 to the place, which he had never thought to see 
 again. Here, as a young man, he had captured a 
 fuiiitive white murderer, and had jrained the name 
 of 'Shymaganis' — the soldier. Every Indian in 
 the camp beyond the fort knew him well, and greeted 
 
 i 
 
 '1 
 
wmmmm 
 
 1 
 
 i« 
 
 '<\- 
 
 i' 
 
 THi: I'l-Aci' Ri\i:k 
 
 41 
 
 him with respect and enthusiasm as a master and 
 a friend. 
 
 One night as we sat round the warm stove in the 
 fort we heard hurried whisperings at the door and 
 a wild figure rushed into t!ie room, apparently im- 
 ploring our aid in the native tongue, It seemed 
 that his wife had been chopping w'ood and had cut 
 her leg off — or c,o at least he said The Doctor 
 brought out his instruments and medicines, and 
 we started for the encampment with the anxious 
 husband. Seven or eight lodges w^ere pitched in 
 the little prairie, and shone white and brown in the 
 firelight. Our guide led us towards one of these, 
 and showed us the unfortunate patient. The sight 
 was wild beyond description. On the right rose 
 the huge smoke-blackened lodge. Just before the 
 door a shelter of green branches had been erected, 
 and under this lay the woman, moaning with pain, 
 and wrapped in a many-coloured blanket. Around 
 her sat a score of her friends, chanting slowly and 
 solemnly a wordless song, and beating time upon 
 a tom-tom. Their wild faces and long straight hair 
 stood out sharp in the firelight, whilst their rairued 
 bodies were faint and indistinct In the uloom. As 
 their song rose louder and louder the woman's moan 
 rose with it and then died away with the lower notes 
 of the tune. The Doctor examined the wound, and 
 found that it was not so serious as we had been led 
 to suppose. The bone was not broken, but the leg 
 
 \^' 
 
■¥• 
 
 ,,. 'if 
 
 ','1 
 
 \t 
 
 ^ i 
 
 i (V 
 
 42 
 
 THE LAND Ol THE MUSKEG 
 
 was badly cut and bruised, and caused th*- patient 
 considerable pain. He began to dress the injured 
 limb — a few grains of morphia were adminis- 
 tered, and the woman C(^ased moaning. This im- 
 pressed her friends enormously, and they gathered 
 round, wondering at the power of the great white 
 medicine-man, which had accomplished more than 
 all their chanting and bandaging. Then they boiled 
 a kettle for us, and we syringed the wound. If you 
 would cure an Indian you must impress him with 
 
 the difficulty of 
 the proceeding, 
 and so, instead 
 of tjoing about 
 the business in 
 an ordinary 
 loiM lUNVK.iAN fashion, we 
 
 squirted water 
 throu'di a loner india-rubbc. tube, and watched 
 the terrified pleasure on the face of the sufferer. 
 There was no more chantiniT now, for a feeling 
 of awe had come over the group of savages as 
 they watched the mysterious doings of the great 
 white man. But our Doctor did not rise to the 
 occasion, and so we had to act the bedside 
 manner for him. When we left the camp the 
 woman was asleep ami her friends silent. But 
 we had hardly got beyond the circle of firelight 
 when they fell to chanting again, and so continued 
 throu^jfh the entire night. 
 
Till' liCACI' RIXIiR 
 
 43 
 
 Ever since we left the Athabaska Landing- we had 
 been in the country of the Crees. I was told that 
 they are not really natives of the soil, but simply an 
 offshoot of the Crees who inhabit the plains, and 
 that they had driven the original inhabitants out 
 of the district. At all events no other Indians live 
 in the country, although there is nothing to prevent 
 their doing so if they have a mind to. The Crees 
 themselves, however, wander all over the district, 
 which by rights belongs to the Beaver Indians. 
 The two tribes are entirely dissimilar, both in ap- 
 pearance and language, and retain to a certain 
 extent a hostile feeling towards each other. Pnit as 
 ill tribal authority is at an end there is no open 
 -:'.rife or fixed territorial boundary between them. 
 And so the Crees trespass upon the hunting-ground 
 of their neighbour with impunity, thinking that the 
 Beavers are not worth noticing — and, as they say, 
 'scarcely human.' If the tribal feeling had been 
 retained, and the whole nation moved under the 
 direction of a chief and council of elders (as it did 
 until recently), this state cf affairs would be impos- 
 sible. But as it is. the missionaries and Hudson's 
 Bay officers are the only chiefs, and the) very 
 naturally wish for nothing but [)eace. At present 
 each member of a tribe is socially as good as any 
 other, except in so far as the one excels the other in 
 hunting, and therefore in the number of his horses 
 and the length of his credit with the Company. 
 
 II 
 
p- 
 
 m 
 
 .. I. m, \ ... 
 
 -.— ^'-"W J M .M.MiJ 
 
 ^^T 
 
 h 't! 
 
 
 i: t L 
 
 .^'* 11 
 
 1'^ 
 
 «» "i' 
 
 •i 
 
 
 il 
 
 44 
 
 rill' LAND ()!■ THI- MISKMO 
 
 And though the Crees despise the Beavers as an 
 inferior race, this feeling is more personal than 
 tribal. The Cree Indians are, for the most part, 
 dark, spare men, showing many of the usual 
 characteristics of the aborigines of the continent, 
 but of peaceful disposition and great charm of 
 manner. They speak an exceedingly beautiful 
 
 language, and converse 
 with ease and iluency, pro- 
 nouncing their words with 
 wonderful distinctness, and 
 showing their meanini'- 
 with many well-considered 
 gestures. Their chief topic 
 of conversation is naturally 
 hunting, for by this they 
 gain their living, but they 
 seem also to be very fond 
 of tale-telling, and now 
 and again one may hear 
 legends and fables from the 
 older men, which speak of 
 the times when the game was more plentiful in the 
 country, and consequenth men had more time for 
 talk. I have set down two such tales" here, as I 
 think they may be of interest The first recalls the 
 Welsh story of Gelert, and one would be curious to 
 know if it is current amongst other peoples. Thus 
 runs the tale : — 
 
 A 1 ISll SI'F.AR 
 
THii piiAci-: ki\i<:r 
 
 45 
 
 There was once a young man who was \'ery 
 poor ; his father and mother and all his relations 
 had been killed in a raid, and he was left alone in 
 the world with no friend but his faithful doL^. So 
 he journeyed for many days, picking up a living as 
 best he could. One day he came to the lodf^e of an 
 ' Oukimow,' or big chief. Now this chief had 
 everything that he could possibly want — fine clothes, 
 many wuves, and the most beautiful cooking-pots. 
 But above all he had a lovely daughter. This lucky 
 man had a bow which was enchanted. Whatever 
 he shot at with his arrows died, so he had always 
 plenty of meat hanging in his camp, and no one 
 dared quarrel with him, for if they did, they were sure 
 to be killed. The mystery of the bow was a secret, 
 but the great man's daughter had learned it from 
 her father, and now she told it to this young man 
 who had become her lover. But the chief found this 
 out, so he drove him away, and again he wandered, 
 thinking of the lovely girl, and full of rage at her 
 father's treatment. One day when he was asleep 
 under a birch-tree he was avv'akened by the Old 
 Wanderer '—the cunning one— who asked him what 
 service he could render him. So he told his story, 
 saying that he was very an.xious to kill the big Chief 
 of the Bow, in order that he might marryhisdaughter, 
 
 ' This ' Wamlorer' .inpeais many times in Indian legend. He seems to 
 he an evil spirit, with a strong tendency towards good. Thus he will henetit 
 some unlucky person and yet he called 'the evil and cunning one' hy the 
 narrator. 
 
Wii 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 |!'J ' » 
 
 46 
 
 THE LAND OF THE MUSKE(; 
 
 M 
 
 but that he knew he could not prevail aijainst the 
 magic weapon, and therefore h*" had not tried. 
 Now the Wanderer knew all things, and he told him 
 that the spell was broken since the tale of the bow 
 had been told, and that he might safely go and kill 
 his enemy. However, he said that he would make 
 the matter certain, and provide the young man 
 with another magic bow. So he told him to ' cut 
 down the birch-tree and make fiom it a Low and 
 arrow, and make a bow-string from the fibres of 
 the bark, and when you have done this,' he said, 
 'call me.' The young man made the weapon and 
 the string, and called. And the Wanderer came 
 and spoke the magic word, and gave the bow 
 to the young man, telling him that the arrow 
 would hit whatever he lired i'.t, but that he was 
 only to use it once, against his enemy. So the 
 young man went and slew the ' Oukimow,' and 
 became chief of the tribe, and married the girl, and 
 owned the fine clothes and beautiful cooking-pots. 
 
 In his new greatness he became very haughty. 
 So the ' Wanderer ' appeared and told him to go 
 and do honour to the birch-tree ; but he was proud, 
 and did not do it, saying that no harm would come. 
 After a while a son was born to him. And the 
 whole tribe feasted, and he said to his people. 
 ' Let us so and honour the birch-tree.' And thev 
 all went. But instead of doing it honour he took 
 a whip and lashed it, making the marks which 
 
Tin- I'liAci-: ri\-i-:r 47 
 
 may be seen upon the bark to this clay. Tlien 
 came the 'Wanderer' a third time, and told him 
 that his son was dead because of his sin. He 
 hasten( > home and saw his dog standing over the 
 cradle covered with blood. Then he was wild with 
 rage and shot at the dog with the magic bow ; and 
 the arrow flew and killed the dog, but pierced his 
 son as well, and he came and saw many dead wolves 
 around the cradle, and realised that his faithful 
 dog had protected the child, and that he had lost 
 his son through disobedience to the laws of the 
 ' Cunnincr One.' 
 
 The second tale is the Cree version of the Flood, 
 in which the ' Wanderer ' appears again, this time as 
 Noah. The main oudine of the story closely re- 
 sembles the Biblical account, but it will be observed 
 that the dove has been changed into the beaver to 
 suit the local taste, and also that their habit of dam- 
 building is accounted for. 
 
 Once the whole earth was covered with water, 
 but the ' Wanderer ' was in a big canoe with many 
 kinds of animals ; and after he had been on the 
 water for many days without seeing land, he de- 
 termined to send an animal to dive down to see if 
 the water \v^as still deep, or if the flood were abat- 
 ing ; so he sent down a young beaver. But the 
 little animal was afraid to dive too deep, and re- 
 turned, saying that he saw nothing but water and 
 no land. Then the ' Wanderer ' was verv an<rrv 
 
•1 
 
 f I 
 
 Li'ilf \ 
 
 48 
 
 riii-: i.ANi) ()!• ini' miskix; 
 
 I 
 
 I'l; 
 
 ."1 
 
 ♦ 
 
 I,- 
 
 for he knew all things, and knew that ihc little 
 beaver had not done his b'3st, therefore he cursed 
 him, saying, ' Cursed shalt thou be ; thou shalt never 
 grow, nor thy tail grow, but thou shalt only imitate 
 the beavers.' And this was the first musk-rat. 
 Then he sent a big beaver, and he swam and 
 reached the bottom, and brought a little earth up 
 with him to the side of the canoe, and there he 
 died. So the 'Wanderer' took the grains of earth 
 and blew upon them, and the world arose and was 
 dry. And he blessed the beavers, and said that 
 they should always try to dam the streams and stop 
 them running, lest they might again flood the whole 
 earth. 
 
 This tale has not been inspired by the mission- 
 aries, as one might be led to suppose ; but is a 
 part of the original folklore of the people them- 
 selves. It is diflicult to say what their religion 
 originally was, but it may be presumed that it was 
 a sort of nature-worship combined with great 
 superstition and fear of ghosts, whicli, of course, 
 was fostered by the tribal medicine-men. 
 
 The Beaver or Tsuten IndicUis inhabit the 
 districts between Fort Dunvegan and the Rocky 
 Mountains. They are allied to the great Dene 
 family of aborigines, which occupies the entire 
 contiiiC'A'J. between the Saskatchewan and the 
 Arctic Ocean (with the exception of the country 
 of the Crees). This vastly scattered nation has not 
 
Tin; I'l'ACK klVl.R 
 
 49 
 
 » 
 
 completely retained its characteristics durinq- its 
 various wanderin-s, so that the different tribes 
 chvellinc. in far-distant places speak separate 
 lan.nruaoes. lUit for all that they are of the same 
 stock. The Beavers themselves are but a very 
 iiisio-nificant branch, numberin- not more tlian 
 c:i<iht hundred. They are for the most part small, 
 angular men, and most repulsively uqdy. They 
 are far behind the Crees in their n"anners and 
 habits, which are ^•ery disoustino-. Their lancruai^e 
 IS made u], of guttural cluckings and hesitatioiL 
 They are most unhealthy, suffering much from 
 indigestion, consumption, and scrofula-in fact, they 
 are by no means a charming people. It is said 
 moreover, that they are rapidly becoming extinct' 
 Like the Crees. they have lost all tribal organisa- 
 tion, and recognise no superior but the white man 
 Their old chief (who is chief only in name) is 
 however, still living at Dunvegan, and is a' 
 sufficiently remarkable old man. His name appears 
 on the records as a fort-hunter in 1826. Now it 
 has always been the custom in the Company to 
 employ experienced men as hunters, and it may 
 ■safely be presumed that no exception is made 
 in this mans favour. All the other hunters at 
 Dunvegan at the time appear to have been about 
 thirty years of age, and even if ' 'i^ranquille ' was 
 younger he would by now be ninety years old. 
 He had earned his name through his endeavours 
 
 I) 
 
1' i 
 
 50 
 
 Till' LAM) 01 llir: Ml SKl-Ci 
 
 
 •flt 
 
 ; <■ 
 
 to pacify his tribe duriiiL; the Cireat Rebellion in 
 the South. In this he had been entirely successful. 
 That was during the days of his power. But when 
 he began to grow old his son had usurped his place 
 
 as chief, and 
 when he died 
 the old man was 
 too feeble to 
 take up the 
 reins of govern- 
 ment again, and 
 soauthorit)had 
 died out in the 
 tribe, and the 
 great man had 
 fallen upon the 
 charity of the 
 Hudson's Bay 
 C o m p a n )-. 
 When we saw 
 him he was 
 entirely blind, 
 and quite awful 
 to look upon. 
 He was in his wheel-barrow going up to his meal at 
 the fort. His shirt was open, and the poor withered 
 old chest and skeleton arm were a pitiful sight. He 
 had married again a short time before we arrived, 
 and suspecting that his wife was not so dutiful as she 
 
 CIIIKI' TkANyLlLLK 
 
 I 
 
nil. ri;.\CM ki\i:r 
 
 5' 
 
 ind, 
 :ful 
 
 sht 
 
 mii,4u be, he had d(;tcrmined to iiuinU.'r her. So 
 lie sat ilowii ill his lotli^e with a knife in his hand 
 and lunged round into the darkness. Hut fortun- 
 ately for her, heinij^ ([uitc blind, he did no harm, and 
 the offendiiiL^ spouse did not come to the untimely 
 death he had intended for h(;r, but I fancy her 
 nerves were a o'ood deal shaken by the ferocity of 
 her aged husband. 
 
 At DunveL^an we met another old man of nearly 
 eighty years of age — 
 one T we 1 v <; f o o t 
 Davis — a white ma)\ 
 famous throughout 
 the country. He had 
 been a sj^old miner for 
 many years, and had 
 made a large sum of 
 money on a neglected 
 claim twelve feet 
 square. This had 
 hap[)encd in the old 
 days of the great 
 Cariboo mines, and 
 his fame and nick- 
 name had spread far 
 and wide. When we 
 
 saw him he was a free trader and a rival to the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, but as he could neither 
 read nor write, it may be inferred that he was not 
 
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 WEBSTER, NY. 14580 
 
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 52 
 
 UN' i-.\M) oi' I HI' MrsKi:(i 
 
 makiiiLj^ niucli by the business. Every year he 
 would travel into the country with his store of t^oocls 
 for barter, and sometimes he would winter upon the 
 banks of the Teace. One winter he was livinir 
 with four other men in a log cabin near a place 
 called Hudson's Mope. An officer of the Com- 
 jjany was livini,^ within ten or twelve miles, and 
 feelincr lonely about Christmas-time, he sent a note 
 to Davis wishin<,^ him the usual compliments of 
 the season and a happy new year for 1892. Davis's 
 friends happened to be away when the note came, 
 so the free trader, thinking that something of 
 importance had occurred, opened the letter and 
 studied it carefully. As he could not read, he 
 was entirely unable to find out its meaning; but, 
 guessing that his correspondent was unwell, sent 
 him the only medicine he thought at all effica- 
 cious — to wit, a couple of liottles from his scant 
 store of whisky. When his friends returned he 
 solemnly told them that the Hudson's Bay officer 
 was ill, and had written for two bottles of whisky, 
 and that he had of course sent them to help the 
 lonely man in his distress. This seemed a some- 
 what sericis matter, so the letter was asked for ; 
 and then the old man was told that the officer was 
 neither ill nor had asked for spirits. ' It was that 
 darned 2 set me wrong,' was Davis's explanation. 
 The joy of the officer at receiving the unexpected 
 present may be imagined, whilst Davis's rage at 
 
 1= 
 
 I ) 
 
 M 
 
■' 
 
 THM I'I'ACI-; Ki\i:u 
 
 )3 
 
 parti ni]^ with so valuable a possession knew no 
 bounds ; and to this day he declares that somehow 
 or other he was cheated out of his whi'^ky, and that 
 no man has a ri^ht to say that he is dyin*,^ when he 
 is quite well. 
 
 At Dunvegan we stayed for some days makings 
 
 JOHN Till; iiAi'Ti'-rs ii.\L(;iii i;ks 
 
 up our packs and arranginq^ our saddles and pro- 
 visions for the great march in the bush. Mr. Tait 
 had helped us in every way. and both he and his 
 wife had entertained us royally, so that again it was 
 with a feeling of regret that we started out on our 
 
 
r 
 
 54 
 
 THI-: LAND OI" THE MUSKl-G 
 
 real expedition. Before everythinii^ else we had to 
 get our horses across the Peace River. Here there 
 was no friendly scow to help us, but only two dug- 
 out^ canoes of moderate size. In these we crossed 
 our goods, making many voyages under the guid- 
 ance of John Knot and Daukhan, who were expert 
 canoe-men. Finally, on July 27th, we set to work 
 to cross the horses. John the Baptist — Daukhan's 
 brother — helped us in this ; in fact we left the whole 
 business in native hands, for it requires much 
 practice to swim horses across so large and rapid 
 a stream, and any mistake of a bungling amateur 
 may mean the loss of a valuable animal. Three or 
 four of our beasts of burden w^ere led down to the 
 river together. A rope was tied round the neck of 
 the steadiest, and he was led into the water. Then 
 the men in the foremost canoe took the rope and 
 started slowly, so that the animal might leave the 
 shallows and begin to swim without being hurried 
 or confused. Meanwhile the other men drove the 
 loose horses into the water after the leader, and 
 followed in a second canoe, shouting and iruidincr 
 the animals as best they could. The poor brutes 
 snorted in the rapid stream, and were often nearly 
 carried away ; but in the end they all reached the 
 farther shore without accident, althouofh somewhat 
 exhausted by their long swim. Round told me 
 that he had seen a horse swim the river at this 
 
 ' Dii^-on( — i.e. hoUoweil from a Iroc-triink. 
 
 HI 
 
 i 
 
■^ 
 
 Till': n-ACi-: hivi:r 
 
 55 
 
 place with its front feet tied and hobbled, which 
 any one can believe who has seen what an old and 
 experienced animal will do on dry land when thus 
 hampered. That night we camped on the southern 
 bank of the river. 
 
LU- 1- 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 DAUKHAN AND THE BEARS 
 
 I 
 
 u ' ' i 
 
 i 
 
 Wk were now really making a start on our ex- 
 pedition. All this time we had been more or less 
 under the wing of the great Comoany, but at last 
 we were ready, and had only to pack the horses and 
 start away into the bush. This put us all into the 
 very highest of spirits, and even Daukhan seemed 
 to feel that he had become a person of great im- 
 portance as the guide and hunter of the party. We 
 had given him a new rifle and a great buffiilo-knife, 
 and with these he was delighted beyond measure. 
 These buffalo-knives are of English manufacture, 
 being made, I believe, by Unwin of Sheffield, and 
 we found them of the greatest use. The blade is 
 about nine inches long, and very thick at the back, 
 the whole knife weighing about three pounds. 
 They are invaluable for chopping under-brush, being 
 far handier than an axe, and yet they are not 
 cumbersome to carry, and can be used for skinning 
 large animals or any such work. Daukhan sat 
 looking at his new possession — his 'amukooman,' 
 as he called it, and discoursed to us upon its many 
 merits. 
 
I 
 
 rheStntiAt Jtirerut report**/ 
 Utrtu-tntf t/utyr unfMi'tunt trikutmnex 
 ^ fronitht^We»t,ahof9t/aMpottti 
 
 i^ M/' tiriutd CoupFlttt. tfte llai-rupi/ie 
 
 ^■^^\* , and thif She*=p» 
 
DUNVEQAN TOJFOR' 
 
 XnglisTi ltUe!> (6. 
 
 mam 
 
 wS^ 
 
WVEQAN TO rOBT M'LEOD. 
 
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p ^ 
 
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 ■s. : 1 
 
 I'M 
 
 1 ; 
 
 1; 
 
DAiKiiw AM) ini: r.i:\Ks 
 
 5: 
 
 On the following mornini; \vc 
 
 bcij^an packini^ 
 the horses. Now packing is an art that may not 
 be learned in a short tinu'. I'ollen and 1 had 
 had a considerable; amount of practice both in 
 the southern Rockies and in California. Round, 
 Daukhan, and John were experts, l^'or my part I 
 confess that I had acquired but a slight knowledge 
 
 KOlMl AMI I'dl.l.l N I'AI MM. 
 
 
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 of the art, as I have never been either strong or 
 heavy erough to get the requisite pull on the lash- 
 rope. Ar.d so it happened that the task of packing 
 fell to the other four, whilst Ramsey, the Doctor 
 and I busied ourselves with the other duties of 
 camp. And there was much to be done. Let me 
 describe the usual routine of a morning's work in 
 
 Ml 
 
 1 
 
58 
 
 TIM' LAND OI- TIM' MUSKHC 
 
 } 
 
 I 
 
 I.. 
 
 camp. First, the fire must be made up and break- 
 fast prepared. Then, whilst the tent is beintj furled 
 and the beds tightly rolled up, two or three of the 
 party go out and bring in the horses, no light work, 
 for the fourteen horses may be very widely scattered. 
 Meanwhile the pack-saddles and saddle-blankets 
 are sorted, and each pack, tightly rolled and roped, 
 is placed near its own saddle ready to be fixed upon 
 the back of the horse to which it belongs. Every- 
 thing having been made ship-shape, the horses are 
 saddled, and then the really hard work commences. 
 A man stands on each side of a horse, and, lifting 
 up a bundle weighing anything from fifty to one 
 hundred pounds, fixes it to the side of the saddle 
 with a small rope called a sling-rope. When both 
 side-packs are secured, the top-pack is placed 
 between the two burdens, and a cloth is thrown 
 over the whole ; round this is thrown the lash- 
 rope, a thick cord about forty feet long. This is 
 passed round the pack in various ways, as the case 
 demands, and runs over the girth under the animal's 
 belly, the men handing the ' loose ' to each other 
 in regular order, and pulling on the rope with one 
 foot braced against the pack or horse's side. When 
 all is made as tight as can be, the animal is turned 
 loose, whilst the attention of the packers is given 
 to the next horse. Meanwhile the knives and 
 plates have been washed and the kitchen-horse 
 packed, and at last the expedition gets under 
 
DAIKHAN AM) Illl. IMIAUS 
 
 59 
 
 
 way. As may be imai^incd, all this talcL-s time, and 
 is besides so laborious that one is in some dejj^rce 
 exhausted before the day's march l)eL,Mns. The 
 great thing to be remembered about all wild travel 
 on the American Cv ntinent is that each man must 
 do his share to the best of his ability, so the work 
 should fall evenly upon all members of an expedition. 
 On the mor ling of our start we had a very hard 
 time. The horses were fresh, and continued to 
 buck off the packs as fast as we rixeu iliem, and we 
 soon saw that we had not nearly enough animals 
 to carry our possesr.ions. Of c*. irse we sh<juld 
 walk, but even then we found that several of the 
 liuises were carrying two hundred and fifty and 
 sometimes three hundred pounds, and we knew that 
 they could not hope to travel over a rough country 
 with such heavy burdens. However, we decided to 
 move on to the plateau above and then to consider 
 what had best be done. We had cut down our 
 baggage as far as possible, but we were afraid to 
 send back any of our stores, as we had a long trip 
 before us, and we did not wish to go hungry, 
 Finally, we got a couple more horses from Mr. 
 Tait, and with this new addition we started gaily 
 enough towards the unknown. 
 
 We were following the Indian pitching trail 
 which led towards Pouce Coupee's Prairie, and we 
 made up our minds to march as fast as our heavily 
 packed horses would allow, and not to rest until we 
 
. 
 
 
 t'fr 
 
 I '/ 
 
 60 
 
 Till': LAM) OI" THI': MISKIU; 
 
 came to this plain, where we meant to make a camp 
 and hunt. The country was open and very lovely, 
 but dotted here and there with clumps and lines of 
 low bush and small poplar. Lon_c^ grass and great 
 patches of red lilies grew in the o[)en meadows 
 across which the little trail ran. A pitching trail is 
 a small path made by the feet of the pack-horses 
 which are always driven across the country in a 
 
 h 
 
 -.,*'^''^./* ■ ^ 
 
 
 .^.S^--'''^^r^^ 
 
 ■ Y' 
 
 w 
 
 ' riiK iiousi'.s \\i:ui; iii.wii.v i.adkn 
 
 11 i 
 
 ll 
 
 'string,' or what is called Indian file. As the 
 natives follow these paths as much as possible, and 
 clear the bush and branches out of the road as they 
 go, the way, where it is frequented, becomes tolerably 
 well marked, and is beaten into a shallow trough by 
 years of use. In several places we saw bear-tracks, 
 and very occasionally the footprints of moose in the 
 deeper woods, but none of these were fresh enough 
 
 (1 
 
w 
 
 DAIKHAN AND TH' 
 
 6i 
 
 to justify a halt, and so we concinu: : - Tnaixi- 
 The nights were cleir and froscv. :t.r. v :; : i:r!r rain 
 held off we slept in the opea umicr i.r rrr-^ -imcf- 
 nets, as we found this much nrrr- :f-;i^->aiz i:.l:; 
 huddlinLT tOLrethcr in a tent. W-; : . . ti x -r^'in 
 fast, as the horses were heavilv: .ui.:u:i- im: c:: of 
 condition, so that it was not untjl die: rniri ^^ mai 
 we crossi 1 the Rat River and ■iZin'^.L rm: lite 
 poplar forest. The trees i^n^w -k^ ifi --- i'«_:tiiiitT 
 
 'MANY OF THK TKE!:? x :;xE iom: 
 
 >y 
 
 :s, 
 le 
 rh 
 
 that the sky was obscured, and aociinv;: ~rSiz ht 
 seen but the ^j;reen leaves overiitt:a5 zit^ iniDt 
 under-brush below, and the grear wtnntr rs.t:r-:- and 
 branches around us. Many of rfn^ -rr— - •: ■-^- 
 rottinjT as they stood, and leaned on* a i:<t'~ - ^ _ : - 
 bours, ready to fall at the least ti:u.cn^ "-nrr .^} 
 a pack-horse brushed against one :f -nt:^ aiad 
 
62 
 
 THi: LAND OI< THI-: MUSKMC. 
 
 ii 
 
 
 I' 
 
 m 
 
 broui,rht it down with a crash. As ill luck would 
 have it, Pollen was walking a little in front. 
 Seeing his danger, I shouted to him to look out. 
 and, ducking his head and hunching his shoulders, 
 he avoided the full force of the blow. But for all 
 that, the tree descended with great violence upon his 
 head, knocking him senseless to the ground. The 
 trunk was some sixty feet long, and of considerable 
 thickness, and it seemed a marvel that he was not 
 killed. If it had fallen fairly upon him he must 
 have been. We made camp at once, and did what 
 we could for him, but he was suffering a good deal 
 of pain, and thought that he was about to have 
 concussion of the brain. The whole of that night 
 the rain beat down in torrents, and the thunder 
 rolled in the forest with appalling violence. We 
 fully expected to find that Pollen, unable to continue 
 the march, would be forced to return to Dunvegan. 
 On the next day, however, he revived a little, and 
 on the third day expressed his readiness to march. 
 So we moved a short distance over a very swampy 
 trail — he was too seedy to go far, — and again we 
 camped near some most: unpleasant swamps. All 
 through the country the water was very nasty, and 
 in some places almost undrinkable. 
 
 Pollen's accident cost us a day in camp, and one 
 or two half-marches ; but luckily he soon mended, 
 and in a week was quite well again. And so for 
 ten days we marched in the forest, often sleeping 
 
 i 
 
IMIKHAX AND Tin; DliAKS 
 
 63 
 
 
 in swamps and muske-s. and generally drenched 
 durmg the greater part of the day. The mosquitoes 
 and bull-dog flies still followed us in clouds and 
 covered the horses. Once we came to a place 
 where a great forest fire had raged. It seemed 
 as though a strong wind had been blowino- at 
 the time, or since, for the charred trunks lay piled 
 upon the ground in such wild confusion that we 
 were forced to make a long detour. The awful 
 effect of these fires is a wonderful thing to see 
 Huge tracts and districts have been burnt out in 
 the North-West, and present a melancholy appear- 
 ance. In most cases the trees remain standin<r for 
 many years, whilst wild raspberry and such^'like 
 bushes choke the ground. Sometimes, however 
 the wmd fells the wreckage, and the black logs and 
 twisted branches make the country wellnigh im- 
 passable. We found that we were using our pro- 
 visions too rapidly, so we set a limit to our meals 
 giving three slices of bacon to each man per meal' 
 with unlimited bread. In this way we lived very 
 vyell, and on the tenth day after leaving Dunveoan 
 sighted a raised and open plateau, which Daukhan 
 declared to be Pouce Coupee's Prairie. 
 
 After fording two small riv^ers. we climbed the 
 hiH and marched along the ridge for about ten 
 miles. The grass was long, and very tiring to 
 walk through, so that we were all pretty welf ex- 
 hausted when we made camp. The prairie is a 
 
' ' 
 
 w— ii— p 
 
 M 
 
 in , 
 
 64 
 
 Tin- LAM) Oi- Tin- .MlSKi:(i 
 
 fine piece of open country, dry and fertile. Many 
 years ago, the Beaver Indian chief, Pouce Coupee, 
 settled here with about five hundred followers, who 
 constituted themselves a separate tribe. But a 
 fever broke out amongst them, and when their chief 
 returned from his hunt one winter he found their 
 lodges empty and their bodies lying round the 
 ashes of the camp-fires, half-eaten by the wolves 
 and cayotes. Of the flourishing colony not one 
 
 f 
 I 
 
 ""i 
 
 'Tin-; GKASS WAS I.ONi; AMI VI-.HV TIKISC;' 
 
 fl 
 
 remained but the old man, its founder, who is said 
 to have returned to Dunvegan, and to have died 
 there many years afterwards. 
 
 We found that our camping-ground was not a 
 good one, as the water was tepid, and so nasty that 
 the tea was almost undrinkable. However, we had 
 some cocoa (pig's blood, the Indians call it), and so 
 managed very well. On the following day we moved 
 on about five miles, and camped near a small swamp, 
 where we succeeded in p':king up some ducks, 
 
DAIKHAN AM) THI-: HHARS 
 
 65 
 
 Many 
 )upee, 
 i, who 
 But a 
 r chief 
 I their 
 id the 
 wolves 
 ot one 
 
 which came as a welcome change after our diet of 
 bacon. Daukhan had been exploring the neighbour- 
 hood in search of bear-tracks, and killed a small 
 beaver, which we ate. We found the meat fairly 
 good, but a tritle strong. On the following day, 
 Daukhan, Round, Pollen, and I rode over a con- 
 siderable area of country looking for bear-tracks, 
 but found none. Daukhan, however, said that he 
 had seen the track of a yearling moose, and so it 
 was arranged that he should go after it on the 
 
 3 is sa 
 
 id 
 
 :e died 
 
 IV 
 
 s not a 
 isty that 
 we had 
 and so 
 e moved 
 swamp, 
 ducks. 
 
 ^ 
 
 3 
 
 ■ wi: move;) on ahoi"t iivk milks' 
 
 morrow, whilst we continued to search for bear- 
 tracks in the opposite direction. Moose-stalking is 
 the most difficult operation in a bushed country, 
 and it is practically useless for a white man to 
 ■'ttempt it. Indeed, there are but few Indians who 
 can be sure of killing this animal, which is without 
 doubt the most wary of the deer tribe. Of course, in 
 an easy country, the moose may be shot by any 
 moderate hunter ; but when the ground is com- 
 
 E 
 
66 
 
 THI-: LAND OF THIi MUSKF.G 
 
 \ 
 
 il >'* 
 
 J! 
 
 ! 
 
 plctely covered with dry twigs, and when there is 
 much hush, the difficulty is increased many-fold. 
 In the winter the Indians follow the moose upon 
 snow-shoes, thus gaining some advantage in pace. 
 There is a popular superstition abroad, to the effect 
 that a man can go more rapidly over the snow on 
 snow-shoes than upon open ground on his feet. 
 This of course is not the case, at least when the 
 netted American shoe is used. It is true that an 
 expert can run, and even jump, when wearing them, 
 but they are worn simply to prevent a man's sink- 
 ing into the snow. As the moose sinks belly-deep 
 at every step, he tires comparatively soon, and an 
 Indian who is a good traveller is able to overtake 
 it, although he is sometimes obliged to follow the 
 animal for seven or eight days in succession. The 
 hardships which the Indians endure on these expedi- 
 tions are very remarkable. They can carry but little 
 food with them, and have no covering except their 
 walking clothes ; they sleep for a few hours by a fire 
 at night, and resume before daybieak the march, 
 which they had prolonged far into the previous 
 evening. Sometimes, when they are close upon 
 the moose, they are unable to light a fire for 
 fear of alarming him, and then they will curl 
 themselves up under a bush and sleep with the 
 thermometer at fifty and sixty degrees below zero, 
 or keep moving to avoid being frozen. When 
 they have killed the animal, they bring their 
 
 I 
 
 1. I 
 
1 there is 
 nany-fold. 
 )ose upon 
 J in pace, 
 the effect 
 : snow on 
 
 his feet, 
 when the 
 le that an 
 •ing them, 
 an's sink- 
 Delly-deep 
 n, and an 
 
 overtake 
 follow the 
 Ion. The 
 se expedi- 
 y but little 
 :cept their 
 s by a fire 
 le march, 
 
 previous 
 lose upon 
 a fire for 
 
 will curl 
 
 with the 
 elow zero, 
 I. When 
 ring their 
 
 DAUKHAX AM) thJ.: IHIARS 
 
 67 
 
 edges and fl.milies and camp near the carcass 
 feascng and hving in idleness until the meat is 
 l^^one, when hunger again obliges then, to seek f<,r 
 
 rcsh game. This alternate feasting and starving 
 soon undermn.cs their constitutions, and many o'f 
 them become the victims of dyspepsia and sin.ilar 
 con.^un.. wh.h. with scrofula, are extermina^ 
 
 mg the Beaver tribe. As thov -iro ..^f i • 
 • 1 • ^s uicy are utterly minro- 
 
 vKlent, many of them die of starvation, which mLh t 
 be prevented by a little care even in ,his desohte 
 
 Daukhan followed his moose, but found that it 
 was travjelhng, and so left the trail and returned to 
 camp. Meanwhile Pollen and I had discovered a 
 1^' «;-'y/-k, and had left our horses nd 
 followed ,t for some distance, but lost it in a 
 swamp. We returned to camp and told Daukhan 
 nd on the ne.t day started out again with h m 
 
 s.de of a small stream to the north of the prairie 
 The grass was long, and the bear had left I broTd 
 
 ^wmdi^ up the slopes and amongst Ih:^ 
 Several ttmes we came upon other tracks, but 
 
 Daukhan pronounced these old, although to our 
 unpracfsed eyes they looked exactly siniHar to tl e 
 f-sh one. Daukhan did some verv pretty sta ki I 
 and seemed ciuite confident that he'cot.ld fm I' 
 bear. IJ ,t ,t ,vas all to no purpose. The anin,a^ 
 had wandered in circle.: =„A u : animal 
 
 circles, and had crossed his own 
 
1 
 
 1' 
 
 'f 
 
 1 
 
 i^^Vi 
 
 mm 
 
 
 ^M 
 
 68 
 
 Tin- LAND OI' Till' MlSKl'C. 
 
 track so often that the whole hillside was lined and 
 much of the grass beaten down. Finally, it became 
 evident that the bear was moving himself, so we 
 remounted, and beat a large piece of bush, galloping 
 for about a mile through the underbrush as fast as 
 we could, in ho[)es that we should cut him off and 
 come to quarters ; but we saw nothing, and only got 
 very much scratched by the thorns. Round indeed 
 declared that he had heard the bear movinir. but 
 
 rill. I'KAii;!!-: 
 
 I . 
 
 we could find no trace of him, so we returned 
 to camp, feeling rather low. Daukhan had done 
 some wonderful stalking, and it was only by chance 
 that we had missed the animal. He was, however, 
 very disconsolate at his failure. 
 
 It seems a curious thing that no definite conclu- 
 sion has yet been arrived at concerning the number 
 of different kinds of bear to be found in North 
 America. Men talk of roach-backs and cinnamons. 
 
 I 
 
liAl KUAN AM) Tin; luvVKS 
 
 69 
 
 incd and 
 ; became 
 f, so we 
 ^allopinrr 
 
 LS fast as 
 off and 
 only got 
 .1 indeed 
 'ini::, but 
 
 returned 
 ad done 
 y' chance 
 lowever, 
 
 conclu- 
 
 n umber 
 
 1 North 
 
 namons, 
 
 I 
 
 silver-tips, and black and brown and grizzly bears, 
 as though they were separate breeds ; and indeecl 
 many thnik so. I think that the real reason of this 
 IS that m each place the animals are called by 
 diHerent names. Thus in Wyoming the griz/Iy is 
 known as silver-tip, and so on. In the north, 
 at all events, there an- only three kinds of bear. 
 In the far north there is the polar bear. Next 
 comes the grizzly bear, which does not differ from 
 the grizzly of California or the silver-tip of Wyoming. 
 'I hen there is the common black bear, which ?s 
 sometimes brown. Daukhan told me that he had 
 absolute proof of this, as he had found a black bear 
 with a black and a brown cub, just as the silver and 
 cross foxes, and indeed red foxes, are all found 
 together in the same litter. It has been suggested 
 that there is sometimes a cross between the'^grizzly 
 and the black bear; but Daukhan said he thought 
 that this was out of the question, as the urir/ly 
 persecutes the smaller animal. He declared that 
 this was the reason why the black bear keeps so 
 nuich to the wood, as it is able to escape from its 
 enemy by climbing. He also said that more than 
 once he had come upon the scene of one of the 
 encounters, and had found the black bear literally 
 torn to pieces, so that its skin was not worth dress- 
 ing or curing ; and in such cases the black bear was 
 not necessarily a male. 
 
 Daukhan himself is a noted bear-hunter, havin-r 
 
fTossBBm&mwmm 
 
 i 
 
 t 
 
 
 \l I 
 
 \l 
 
 70 
 
 nil' l-AM) OI- IIII' Ml SKI'C; 
 
 killed a wonderful number of these animals — j)ro- 
 bably not less than 1 20 grizzlies alone, as may 
 be proved by the entries in the fort journal at 
 Dunvegan. He told us the story of one of his 
 early adventures, which must certainly have been 
 sufficiently exciting. A cousin of his. one Thomas, 
 had been badly mauled by a particularly ferocious 
 grizzly, and had been carried to his father's lodge 
 in an almost dying condition. Daukhan no sooner 
 learned this than, as he put it, he knew he 
 must kill that bear. But he was only nineteen, 
 the bear was evidently a very ' bad ' one, and his 
 father flatly forbade his going after it. It seems 
 that in the 'i'ustowitz family parental authority was 
 supreme. It was therefore useless to attempt to 
 gainsay his father, more especially as the stern 
 parent had taken away his only rifle. So now he 
 did not dare to tell his family that he was going 
 after this one, but quietly took an old single-barrelled 
 muzzle-loading shot-gun and a few caps, and told 
 his father that he would shoot a few rabbits for 
 supper. Then he started out and reached the 
 place where his cousin had been found. Arrived 
 there, he found a little open space, and on the 
 farther side, amongst the bushes, he could hear the 
 grizzly feeding. It was too thick to try to get 
 at him. His only chance was to draw the bear 
 into the open. He therefore stood out, and 
 snapped a dead stick with his fingers. The grizzly 
 
 f 
 
DAIKIIAN AM) llll- lU'ARS 
 
 71 
 
 Is— pro- 
 as may 
 irnal at 
 l: of his 
 vc been 
 riiomas, 
 crocious 
 •'s lodge 
 sooner 
 new he 
 lineteen, 
 and his 
 [t seems 
 )rity was 
 ;empt to 
 le stern 
 now he 
 is ^lo'inix 
 barrelled 
 ind told 
 jbits for 
 led the 
 Arrived 
 on the 
 lear the 
 to get 
 le bear 
 )ut, and 
 grizzly 
 
 was on its hind-legs in an instant, and, looking 
 round, saw him. Without a moment's hesitation 
 the grizzly {iiiysia/iia) had rushed out upon him 
 'roaring like a bull. Me had only the small 
 muzzle-loader, and his caps were cracked and wet, 
 so that if he did not kill at the first shot he was done 
 for. Daukhan waited until the bear was almost 
 upon him, and then fired and jumped cpiickly aside, 
 
 ■ III, HAD ONI.V Till. ^MAI.l. MlV./l.i;-I.().\lil.lJ 
 
 grasping at his side for his hunting-knife. Then he 
 remembered that his father had taken this from 
 him with the rifle. Hut his suspense was soon 
 over, for the huge animal rolled over dead at his 
 feet. I had been told the story of this youthful 
 escapade before, so that I had no doubt of the 
 truth of the tale ; and I have always thought it 
 one of the pluckiest things I have ever heard. 
 
72 
 
 Tin- i.ANi) ()!• rm- MrsKi-c 
 
 Daukhan lcllin,Lj a bear story was porfiiclly spU.'iuIid. 
 All Crc.'c Indians ust; i^cstiires in conversation, but 
 DauUhan had a little French blood in his veins, 
 and this, I suppose, i^ave him his extraordinary 
 j^racc and ex|)ressiveness of motion. 
 
 I lis father had been a cattle-herder to the Com- 
 
 I < 
 
 tf\ » 
 
 (M 
 
 "nil. IIL(ii; AM.MAI, KOI.I.I'.U OVIK DIAI) 
 
 [)any at Fort Etlmonton in the old days, and was 
 famous as a stron^f and darinqf man. He had once 
 killed a grizzly unassisted, with a bow and arrow. 
 It seems that a lari^^e party of Indians were attempt- 
 ing to kill a very large bear which was hibernating 
 during the winter. The bear, however, had sud- 
 denly wakened up, and made a rush for the entrance 
 
DAIKII W AM) nil III AkS 
 
 73 
 
 Com- 
 
 ic! was 
 once 
 
 ;u'row. 
 
 [cmpt- 
 
 nating 
 sud- 
 
 trancc 
 
 of ihc cave, and liad so alarmed the men thai they 
 had all turned and lied, leaving Daiikh;'n's father to 
 face the bear alone. lie had to shoot with great 
 rapidity, and in his haste made a had shot, so ih.it 
 tiu' first arrow did not kill. It was a critical moment, 
 and the bear was almost on him b(Tore Ik; hatl let 
 lly tlu; second, 'Ihis fortunately pierceil its heart, 
 and Daukhan toi us that to his ilying day tlu; old 
 man's constant advice was never to fire a shot that 
 was not the best that the shooter could do. It is 
 curious that although the bow has disappeared 
 from amongst them, the Iiulians never speak of 
 shooting without str(;tching out the left hand and 
 nicking the right near the ear, as if in the act of 
 
 Icjttmg go an arrow. 
 
 It seems that wherexcr nun have hunted much 
 the animals have learnt to tlread them. And so in 
 the more southerly portion of the Rockies a grizzly 
 will seldom attack a man unprovoked. lUit in the 
 North-West they have been known to attack men 
 in the open country, and come some distance out 
 of the bush to meet them ; and once or twice they 
 have rushed upon a pack-train on the; march, and 
 even entered a camp in spite of the fire. As a rule, 
 however, even in the most unfrecpiented districts, 
 the grizzlv, in common with most other animals, 
 will seldom attack a human being unless driven to 
 it or wounded ; although they will often attack 
 cattle and horses on the ranee. I )aukhan said that 
 
f 
 
 
 
 :ivr 
 
 m i 
 
 'h -H 
 
 I ,». 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 74 
 
 THl-: LAND ()!• THI- MUSKKG 
 
 they generally stand upright and take a look at the 
 intruder before they do anything. And this is the 
 time to shoot. But when once they have made 
 up their minds to charge they come with fear- 
 ful swiftness and ferocity, and either club with 
 their paws, smashing in the hunter's ribs, or, as 
 has sometimes happened, hold him down and tear 
 out his entrails. The number of times in which 
 a bear has first knocked the gun out of a man's 
 hand before attacking him is quite remarkable. 
 The grizzly, of course, does not /i7/j^, but they have 
 been known to hold a man with their feet and crush 
 in his skull with their teeth. On the whole, bear- 
 hunting is not a safe profession, and few of the 
 Indians seek encounters with a grizzly. The 
 Beavers, indeed, will go any distance to avoid one. 
 Still, I fancy that the casual hunter runs no greater 
 risk than he does with other big game, and, at all 
 events, the odds are always on the side of a man 
 who has a rille and knows how to use it. The 
 black bear — Musqwah, as the Indians call him — is 
 as a rule a timid animal, although at times he will 
 turn and be exceedingly nasty. It seems that they 
 grow to a far larger size in the North-West than in 
 the more southerly districts, for Round told me that 
 he had seen several skins larger than that of any 
 grizzly that he had ever heard of An Indian 
 named Louisan Thomas, a brother of the Thomas 
 mentioned above, had a very nasty time with one 
 
DAIKH AN AND THR B£Jia&> 
 
 ^O 
 
 V :ng 
 
 The 
 
 one, 
 
 eater 
 
 tall 
 
 man 
 
 The 
 
 1 — is 
 
 will 
 
 thev 
 
 m in 
 
 that 
 
 any 
 
 dian 
 
 mas 
 
 one 
 
 of these monsters. It seems dnin it-t vu- : 
 the tracks, and suddenlv coine nu: : i f.^::^ -R-hii 
 the bear. Before he had dn'i d:^ iir n:- ri-iV^ lif 
 animal was upon him. and thevr ilt- : uth -c-_._j-rd 
 upon the (ground together. Ldciiilvi le: v^f alue 
 to reach his knife and killed, t&tr i'miii-.L- - . .' .-nal. 
 but in the struijole the be^ir hiu: i;r: '.-^^- ^.. ibe 
 skin off his head — had. in hict. icalrei i'm.. Tins 
 encounter Louisan told us himsoiri ■_: - :.:5 i.car5 
 were eloquent of the tmth ot his- ^:r-r. ]i is a 
 curious thiuLi' that amonijst ail die :e;ir -r.:ri-r i: L»e 
 heard in Western America one s. • . irr . umt:* 
 across a case of a man who has ai:n.a..'_ :rr-j: ,. ^-i. 
 Of course there are such cases, bur a: iT--rr::f -r;^ 
 the animal is e^enerallv Siitisiied wici tt... :: • _ i^ 
 enemy and then retirin;^- from the neii: — ii=u_i-- -'^liu 
 never eats its food fresh, but .iIw:lvs- i--( v-? t: lo ^;;;iet 
 high, and this may account ior d:e v _ : -ariki 
 it leaves what it believes is ceu.c. i ''S. ! ^^-r^-x 
 th.it it very seldom kills a man Xy:>r rT:r«:. ii^ 
 charges in self-protection, or to durenu -- •. 
 
 The griz;.ly is omnivorous, eadnc • •- " 
 vegetables, but it seems ^eneru^v ^ :-- 
 latier, and subsists mainly on berries. Li^m. i^^i. in 
 the spring, when there is no wild tiriui. ir ^ceirr* 
 to devour many insects, attackinir am— JiiLs ^oid 
 beating up the rotten logs widi tcs ^ii-WJi- in seardh 
 of food. The force of its blow >- -rv'.'-L-^ ■^•'~r-j- 
 ordinary, so that it will pulverise wiu .t^u.. v ...._ iLijd 
 
 ■?y 
 
wr^ 
 
 \i^ 
 
 76 
 
 Till-: LAND Ol' THI-: MUSKIIG 
 
 scatter the fragments far and wide. When enraged, 
 the grizzly will often stand upon its hind-legs and 
 break down young trees with its fore-paws, roaring 
 loudly the while. The female gives birth to two 
 cubs every alternate year, and defends them until 
 they are about twelve months old. The cubs often 
 hibernate by themselves whilst the mother remains 
 in retreat close at hand. There is a theory that 
 the bear nourishes itself during its long sleep by 
 sucking it? paws, and it is said that the under 
 surface of the foot is sore and inflamed in the early 
 spring. At all events it is certain that the bear is 
 fat and in good condition when it emerges from its 
 hole, but becomes thin and emaciated after it has 
 been abroad for a few days. 
 
 INDIAN l( 1; SCOOI' 
 
 •I ! 
 
" 
 
 «!■ 
 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 CAMPING IN SWAMP 
 
 Daukpian declared that there were not many bears 
 in the neighbourhood of the prairie at the time 
 when we visi;:ed it. Our hunts at anyrate were 
 fruitless, and so we moved the camp and made 
 a short march on 3rd of August. On the march 
 Pollen ran a bramble into his eye, causing him much 
 pain, and we camped early on the edge of the 
 prairie. During the afternoon, Daukhan, John, 
 and I, ascended a low mountain to the west of the 
 camp and obtained a magnificent view of the sur- 
 rounding country. Before us stretched mile after 
 mile of forest-covered plain, showing great black- 
 ened patches where fires had raged through the 
 trees ; here and there the bend of a river shone in 
 the sunlight ; and the wind rippled the long grass 
 below us. Far beyond we could see the low foot- 
 hills of the Rockies, and here and there a peak rose 
 white and indistinct in the blue haze of distance. 
 On the way back to camp we came across an old 
 grizzly track of great size. As a rule we marched 
 and hunted in the native moccasin, but I happened 
 
 77 
 
 ? 
 
 J 
 
^•■Wi^^i^^PI 
 
 78 
 
 THI' LAND Ol' Tlir, MUSKFG 
 
 n 
 
 
 to be wearing shooting-boots on this particular 
 occasion, and I found that my two feet, side by 
 side, fitted easily in the footprint of the bear. On 
 returning to camp we found that Pollen's eye had 
 become very much inflamed, and that he was in 
 great pain. The Doctor had mixed some cocaine 
 for him, which afforded him some relief; but he 
 could hardly bear the light, and so had pitched his 
 
 MAR ui:voNi) \vi: coui.n si:i-: Tin--, i.uw loor-mi.i.s 
 
 mosquito-net under a shelter. He was entirely 
 without sleep during the night, but continued to 
 bathe his eye with the cocaine, which he kept in a 
 saucer amongst his blankets. On the followinir 
 morning, however, he was much worse, and the 
 affair had become very serious. On examination 
 we found that his saucer was full of ants and other 
 insects which had crawled into his bed and fallen 
 
 ' 
 
CAMPIXC. I\ SWAMP 
 
 79 
 
 into the medicine durinc: the nii^ht. and that in short 
 he had been bathing his eye in a solution of formic 
 acid. No wonder it liad set up a violent inllam- 
 mation. V/herever we camped we were always much 
 annoyed by ants, which swarm throughout the whole 
 country, so that even when protected by a net from 
 mosquitoes and other Hying insects, one's bed was 
 always invaded by hosts of creeping things. With- 
 out mosquito-nets life would be unendurable, and 
 
 
 MOSQUITO M:rs 
 
 dy 
 
 to 
 
 a 
 
 he 
 on 
 ler 
 en 
 
 a man once stricken down by illness would most 
 likely be worried to death. Even the moose and 
 deer in the country are often killed by bull-dog (lies 
 and mosquitoes, their blood being sucked away 
 until they succumb through exhaustion. Pollen 
 remained in the tent during the whole day in great 
 pain. On the following day, however, he was much 
 better, and with his eye bound up we put him on a 
 
■'■p,".>ni«ju>i»i 1^1^41, 
 
 m '1 
 
 
 80 
 
 Tin-: Ly\ND OF THR MUSKI-.C. 
 
 ■ , i 
 
 i f' 
 
 horse and continued our way, travelling over a fairly 
 open country. 
 
 A forest fire had felled the timber and made the 
 ground very fertile, so that we found an abundance 
 of wild strawberries, and raspberries which were 
 excellent. Towards evening we came to a river 
 known to the Indians as Escapesscow Sepe, or 
 the Sharp Stone Creek, where we camped and 
 lay for the night in a thunderstorm. It had not 
 rained for nine days, and this was the longest period 
 of fine weather we experienced during the entire 
 journey. On the morrow we crossed the river and 
 marched on through much muskeg until we came to 
 a small lake, where we camped. Ramsey now be- 
 came very ill, suffering agonies of pain f'-om rheu- 
 matism, so that we remained in the same place for 
 several days hunting and exploring the country. 
 The number of wild geese on the river was quite 
 extraordinary. They would fly past in flocks for 
 more than half an hour at a time, and even when 
 th'^se were gone off, the next bend would disclose 
 hundreds more. 
 
 It was wdiile we were camped here that we first 
 saw that most wonderful of all the beauties of 
 nature — the aurora borealis. The sun had set with 
 unusual splendour, the light and vaporous clouds 
 holding for long a thousand shades of scarlet, 
 orange, and gold. But no sooner was the last ray 
 gone than pale streaks of green shot horizontally 
 
 
 1 
 
CAMI'IXc; IX SWAMP 
 
 8i 
 
 down the sky and then quivered and passed from 
 side to side like luminous hanginrrs in the wind 
 First one, then another, of these would appear, and 
 then a score ; the intensity of h^ht chani,vincr from 
 one ^nd to the other of the streak, and all passing 
 and repassmg each other with endless and entranc- 
 ing activity. It was a most striking and glorious 
 sight to see half of the dome of heaven abla/e with 
 the shifting dancing fires, the more so as the colour 
 a pale apple-green, seemed so unusual in the sky 
 ; When Ramsey was better we continued our march 
 in the same manner as before. In many places we 
 came across bear-tracks, but they were condemned 
 by Daukhan as old, and not worth followin<r Once 
 however, he found a trail which he declared was 
 fresh, and I immediately started to follow it with 
 him. Pollen s eye being still troublesome. Daukhan 
 said that a female black bear and three cubs had 
 gone into the timber, and that they had not passed 
 more than half an hour before our coming. We 
 accordingly took up the trail while the others made 
 camp as quietly as possible. The bush was thick 
 and the ground in many places hard and dry ; but 
 Daukhan seemed to follow the animal by a kind of 
 instinct, leaping swiftly from log to log and only 
 following the actual footmarks where the earth was 
 soft or the grass long. It seemed as thouoh he 
 hunted by scent. Presentlv wp came 
 
 muskeg, where the trees lay thickly piled 
 
 o a large 
 one upon 
 
82 
 
 Till' LAND Ol' Tin: MUSKIKi 
 
 •JJ 
 
 another. 1 Icrc it was easy to see the footmarks 
 of the bears in the soft moss. Suddenly we sighted 
 a small cub, and Daukhan raced after it, leaping 
 over the fallen timber with wonderful agility, whilst 
 I vainly attempted to keep up with him. The cub 
 promptly ran up a tree, where I shot it. Mean- 
 while Daukhan had discovered another cub, and 
 was already some distance away doing his best to 
 tree it. This one was killed in the same way as 
 the first, but still the old bear did not appear. We 
 searched the surrounding country, but only found 
 a broad path in the underbrush which she had made 
 in her rapid f!ight. At this we were greatly dis- 
 appointed, as we knew from her tracks that she 
 was of considerable size. However, we returned 
 to the camp with the bodies of the unfortunate cubs, 
 and, I am bound to say, were mightily pleased with 
 them, for, although, small, they were the first bears 
 we had killed on the trip. Daukhan dried the 
 skins in Indian fashion, making a hoop of willow 
 branches, and stretchinu' the hide as tiirht as a drum. 
 When the skin was dry, he scraped the gristle from 
 the under side with a bone implement, and in a 
 wonderfully short time the fur became quite sweet, 
 and could be rolled and packed upon the horses. 
 We were now marching towards the .South Forks 
 of the Pine, and intended to follow up the main river 
 in the direction of the Rocky Mountains. Daukhan 
 declared that we had betttT move forward as rapidly 
 
CAMriN'C, I\ SWAMP 
 
 83 
 
 footmarks 
 ve sighted 
 it, Icapiiijr 
 ity, whilst 
 The cub 
 t. Mean- 
 cub, and 
 is best to 
 le way as 
 ear. We 
 nly found 
 had made 
 'eatly dis- 
 that she 
 returned 
 late cubs, 
 ised with 
 st bears 
 ried the 
 f willow 
 a drum, 
 stle from 
 md in a 
 te sweet, 
 l; horses. 
 \ Forks 
 ain river 
 )aukhan 
 rapidly 
 
 I 
 
 as possible and halt amon^^st the foot-hills for some 
 days, as he said tliat we should fmd abundance of 
 bear and other y;ame in that district. 
 
 The pitching trail by which for the lirst few days 
 after leaving- Dunvegan we had travelled- did not 
 take us far. Beyond the prairie there was little 
 trace of it, and now all evidence that the country 
 had ever been travelled over hatl long since dis- 
 ai)peared. so that we had only a vague knowledge 
 
 ^ \ 
 
 AN I.VKNIM. CAMP 
 
 of our position, but marched across the country 
 entirely under Daukhan's guidance. He said that 
 we were approaching a muskeg which covered an 
 immense area of country, and that he was uncertain 
 which direction we had better take. He had never 
 crossed this great swamp, although he had hunted 
 in the outskirts, but he said that he thought that we 
 should be able to fmd a ridge of firm ground run- 
 
r. 
 
 ^ 
 
 li* 
 
 84 
 
 THI': LAM) Ol' Tllli MUSKIXi 
 
 ft t 
 
 fl 
 
 
 ning through it, and thus save a lonq; detour. For 
 some days past the country had been bccominL,^ 
 more swamp)-, and more thickly timbered, until at 
 last we left the poplar woods behind and entered 
 a dense forest of small pines. The soft moss and 
 deep muddy pools of the muskeg impeded the 
 horses, and we were obliged to cut a path through 
 the trees, so that we made but slow progress. It 
 was impossible to see more than a few yards in any 
 direction ; but Daukhan led us straight forward 
 without a moment's hesitalion. Now and again 
 we halted, whilst he climbed a tree and scanned 
 the horizon, looking for some mountain by which 
 he miirht steer our course ; but he could see nothing 
 but trees and swamp for miles in every direction. 
 At every step we sank deep in the cold ooze, so 
 that we were chilled to the bone, even whilst chop- 
 ping the trees and driving the refractory pack 
 animals. 
 
 One evening, just as we were about to camp, 
 we came upon a deep ravine, and camped be- 
 tween high bluffs near a small stream. On refer- 
 ring to the map, we noticed a river marked Coal 
 Brook, which had been discovered by Mr. Dawson ; 
 but we were uncertain whether this was the rioht 
 stream, and were inclined to think that we had 
 already reached the south branch of the Pine River. 
 Even if it was Coal Brook, we had no notion where 
 we were upon the map, and we imagined that we 
 
CAMri\(; IN- SWASIP 
 
 85 
 
 our. For 
 becoming 
 .1, until at 
 i\ entered 
 moss and 
 tded the 
 1 til roil o-h 
 ^ress. It 
 tls in any 
 
 forward 
 nd again 
 
 scanned 
 jy which 
 I nothing 
 iirection. 
 ooze, so 
 1st chop- 
 ry pack 
 
 3 camj), 
 ped be- 
 'n refer- 
 cd Coal 
 )awson ; 
 le right 
 we had 
 i River. 
 1 where 
 that we 
 
 iiad come upon the rixer iiigher up stream than we 
 had intended. And so, on the following day. 
 Daukhan and John went out to look for the Fine 
 River; for we thought it useless to move the pack- 
 train thrcHigh so difficult a country if there was any 
 doubt about our position, as we might march far 
 out of the line and be compelled to return, and 
 thus lose much time and do unnecessary work. 
 
 As soon as our scouts had left camp Pollen and 
 1 set off down the river in search of game. Here 
 and th(;re in the sand by the waterside we found 
 tracks of black-tailed deer, but none of these were 
 very fresh. There are but few of these deer in 
 the country ; but they are more plentiful than the 
 cariboo, which is very seldom seen, although it is 
 to be found in the foot-hills. The wapiti Ts (piite 
 extinct throughout the entire district. It i:^ said 
 that forty or fifty years ago these deer were very 
 plentiful; but the Indians have waged so deadly a 
 war upon them that a few stray antlers whitening 
 amongst the hills alone remain to tell of their exist"^ 
 ence. It is curious to notice that when they became 
 scarce the bulls ceased to whistle, as though fearful 
 of attracting attention. We followed up the black- 
 tail tracks for some distance, and then returned to 
 the river bottom. The canon was deep and pre- 
 cipitous, and in many places very narrow, so that 
 we were obliged to cross the river many times on 
 the way. Here and there we noticed great lumps 
 
 I 
 
 
86 
 
 nil' LAM) ()!• I III'. MlSKI'd 
 
 1 1 
 
 • I 
 
 J. 
 
 ) 
 
 of coal in tlic rivt;r-bccl, and this led us to suppose 
 that this was Coal Hrook, as wc had imai^iiicd. 
 '{"he stream was str()lll^^ and the water vcr)' cold, 
 hut it did not reach ahovc; our knees, and so diil 
 not inconvenience us much. On the return jourm;)-, 
 however, wc. found that the river had risen con- 
 siderably , and now rushed in a roarinij torrent, 
 often risiiifj^ nearly to our armpits. The; stren<4th of 
 the stream was extraordinary, so that we had much 
 ado to keep our feet, and were often carried down 
 a Ioul;- distance; over the slippery rocks. Several 
 times I thought that we should certainly have been 
 drowned, for if a man wert: once swept away he 
 would stand but a poor chance; in such a swirling 
 mass of wat(;r. The roar of the torrent beat back 
 upon us frcMii the rock)' sides of the chasm with a 
 deafenino; sountl that was calculated to shake one's 
 nerves when one felt the tug- of the water. At last, 
 however, wc; came to camp very wet and exhausted, 
 having crossed the stream no less than forty times 
 during the afternoon. Late that evening John and 
 Daukhan returned, saying that they had found the 
 forks of the Pine River, and so we made haste to 
 march there the following morning. On the way 
 we came across iiio grave of an Indian in a little 
 open space amongst the trees. A small wooden 
 cross stood close at hand, whilst the body was pro- 
 tected from the attacks of wolverines and coyottes 
 by a stout wooden frame fdled with stones. The 
 
 ii 
 
CAMIMNl. IN SWAMl* 
 
 87 
 
 I) siij)|)()se 
 
 iina^iiicd. 
 
 ^cry cold, 
 
 nd so did 
 
 1 journey, 
 
 iscn con- 
 
 ; torrent, 
 
 :ren_nth of 
 
 liiul much 
 
 ied down 
 
 Several 
 
 lave been 
 
 away he 
 
 a swirlino- 
 
 beat back 
 
 ;m with a 
 
 ak(i one's 
 
 At last, 
 
 hausted, 
 
 ty times 
 
 ohn and 
 
 3und the 
 
 haste to 
 
 the way 
 
 n a little 
 
 wooden 
 
 was pro- 
 
 coyottes 
 
 Is. The 
 
 man had csideiuK di».'d as he had lived, upon the 
 luiiitinL;- trail, ami had been buried in his deep 
 forests, far from the (Kv(;llin!4s of men. The j;rave 
 seemed pitiful in its lontdiness, but 1 suppose that 
 it was as he would have wished. 
 
 About midday we descended into an open flat, 
 and, skirting- the climii)s of low bush, came to the 
 jincture of the South I'ine and the main river. We. 
 should nf)w b(; forced to cross to the; northern shore. 
 
 'Alion MIDIiW WE l)liS( KNDi;!) 1N10_.\\ OI'KN ir.Al' 
 
 and we thought it best to take the rivers in detail, 
 crossimj- the south river first, and then turnino; our 
 attention to the main stream, which was smaller 
 and less ra[)id abov(; the conlluence, although still 
 about six hundred feet broad. \\'(^ soon foimd, 
 however, that the horses would be obliged to swim 
 in any case, and as we had no wish to spoil our 
 provisions and ammunition, or lose any of the pack 
 animals, we determined to make a dug-out canoe, 
 
 I" 
 
 *7' 
 
M 
 
 
 II 
 
 ' ;v, 
 
 !i 
 
 
 I 
 
 I I: 
 
 'i \ 
 
 1 S ' 
 
 I 
 
 88 
 
 Till' LAND OF Till' MUSKF.G 
 
 and thus save our stores and cross more safely our- 
 selves. We had already chosen a tree suitable for 
 our purpose, when we discovered a very oood canoe 
 hidden amongst the branches, and shortly after- 
 wards another less perfect one a litde lower down. 
 This stroke of s^ood fortune cheered us consider- 
 ably, as we should have lost much valuable time 
 if we had been compelled to make our own boat. 
 
 We had wasted many days through illness or 
 misadventure, and travelled far more nlowly than 
 we had anticipated. It was already the 15th of 
 August, and a month since we left Dunvegan ; but 
 we had killed no game worth speaking of, and had 
 not even got to our huntinir-grounds. The len<rth 
 of time which remained would, of course, be limited 
 by the coming of winter, and we knew that if the 
 snow came whilst we were still in the mountains, 
 we should be obliged to remain in the country 
 until spring. Already the nights were cold ; and 
 plthough the sun still shone brightly by day, we 
 felt that the height of the summer was past, and 
 that we must make a better pace if we were to get 
 any hunting, and cross the mountains before the 
 long northern winter set in. The frost had, how- 
 ever, done us one good turn, for the mos([uitoes 
 and bull-dog Hies had disappeared. It is true that 
 the sand-ily had taken their place; but this insect 
 was not nearly so ferocious as its predecessors, 
 and always retired at sundown, so that we could 
 
 ii 
 
 L 
 
II . 
 
 REiBI 
 
 c.\:\nMNc. IN ^\\ \" 
 
 now sleep uiulisturl)eel. and live tree ^'vr — 
 tortus; ami worry. 
 
 Tht: L;rt:at thini,;^ now was ro hurrv -' --v 
 so we made what haste we coulii u: 
 horses across the two ri\rrs. whiiiifi L Oi^^i, 
 
 -■-•:-dl 
 
 the 
 
 we 
 and 
 <^et 
 the 
 ow- 
 :oes 
 ;hat 
 >ect 
 :)rs, 
 nld 
 
 
 i 
 
 iH)k>iN s\\iM\ti\i; iHK lUNt- aivT-:a 
 
 %l 
 
 John ferricHl oin- ^ooils to the nortiienr -fiiiccit <a lie 
 Pine in the canoe. naiikh.m was- i wcmjtriu] 
 canoe-man, and John was ver\" hanLiynr ^rn^ luiaCL i» 
 that by evenini;- we were all SiUeiy oinr-js** ani Lad 
 made our camj) on the furtlier ifeucfci. Wr: iiiid 
 discovered a small parcel oi tea ini- miLii:: : — : " 
 
 : 
 
I 
 
 .1 1 
 
 ! r 
 
 h I 
 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 ii 
 
 
 ll 
 
 90 
 
 THI-. LAND OF TUR Ml'SKl'd 
 
 Indian's greatest luxury— near the canoe, so we 
 made sure that the boat had been left for the use 
 of some other party, and felt bound to leave it 
 in the place where we found it. We accordingly 
 took it back, and having contributed a small present 
 to the 'cache,'' we returned to camp in the warped 
 canoe which we had discovered upon the beach. 
 
 Now at last we were sure of our position, and 
 every day took our bearings by the mountains near 
 the forks. We marched up the valley for some 
 distance, and then ascended to the hicrher ii^rounds. 
 The hill was very steep, and one of our pack 
 animals, a small horse known by the extravagant 
 title of Duke, slipped on the short grass, and rolled 
 down the mountain-side with his burden. After 
 bouncing amongst rocks and stumps, now on the 
 flat of his back, now sliding, with despairing up- 
 turned face, upon his side, he came to a sudden 
 stop against the trunk of a pine-tree two hundred 
 and fifty feet below us. Every one imagined that 
 the luckless ani nal had broken his neck, or at least 
 done himself some fearful injury. And our surprise 
 may be imagined when we saw him get upon his 
 feet, shake himself, and then quietly trot away from 
 us, dragging a mass of bundles and pack-ropes 
 behind him. 
 
 No one who has not tried it can have any idea 
 
 ' /.(■, a tiling hidilen or stores left protected fr.,.ii animals for fiituip wff. 
 Thus a man will 'cache' m.-at and rcUiin to his 'rnche.' 
 
 r 
 
^1^ 
 
 wa^mmmmmmmimi^mmmm 
 
 'mgamr^^ssp^esi 
 
 CAMPING IX SWAMP 
 
 91 
 
 of the trials of pack-train driving. Horses linock 
 off their packs a<4ainst rocks, or rush incontinently 
 under low boughs, sweeping away their valuable 
 burdens. In an agony of fr\^r one watches one's 
 precious kodak rocking on the back of some loose 
 animal that has a mind to roll in a soft muddy 
 place, or stands vacantly in a river, whilst his 
 brother, who is perhaps carrying the bacon, slips 
 on the soft bank ai^^l goes wallowing down upon 
 his head in the deep water. At every moment of 
 the long marching day some refractory brute leaves 
 the line and goes exploring in the bush or browsing 
 in tlie swamps. A clever horse will so hide himself 
 as to be invisible from his driver's trail, and often 
 one has to return and search the forest, only to 
 find him rolling contentedly upon a burst fl jur-bag, 
 and whitening himself with its priceless contents. 
 No lover of animals should march with a pack-train 
 if he wishes to keep his self-respect. 
 
 Duke was one of those annoying horses, and 
 made himself objectionable on every possible occa- 
 sion. After his roll he trotted down the hill, and 
 ■j.id not stop until he found a place where the grass 
 suited his taste, and there we found him enjoying 
 his ease. Even after i:e had bcv^n brought back 
 and packed, and set upon the trail, he evinced 
 a decided inclination to roll down to the rich crass 
 again, although any ordinary horse would un- 
 doubtedly have died at the first attempt. But he 
 
i.l 
 
 m 
 
 \ 
 
 \^i 
 
 V.l'- 
 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 92 
 
 Till' LAM) oi' Tin: muskI':g 
 
 was to be of much use to us afterwards in a 
 maimer we did not drenm of at this time. 
 
 And thus, with m^ny strugL;les and pantings, we 
 reached the higher ground, and pushed forward 
 through a fairly open country. Once during the 
 
 day we came upon a deserted 
 Indian camp. From the condi- 
 tion of the ashes and other signs 
 we judged that it was not more 
 than two weeks old. There had 
 evidently been a sick 'nan in 
 the party, for the remains of a 
 sweating-house were still stand- 
 ing. It is made after this 
 manner : Many small branches 
 are stuck in the ground in a 
 circle, and the extremities and 
 twigs are plaited together so as 
 to form a kind of roof. Blankets 
 are then thrown over the whole, 
 and the patient creeps in and 
 sits down upon the floor. Mean- 
 while large stones have been 
 heated in a fire, and these are passed into the 
 hut by the man's friends, whilst he pours water 
 upon them, and so makes a steam under the 
 blanket. After a while the heat must become 
 almost unendurable, but the process is continued 
 until the unfortunate patient can stand it no longer, 
 
 JOHN AND DAUKIIAN IN 
 
 rii:-; canoi-: 
 
 hv 
 
■P" 
 
 ■■Ml 
 
 CAMl'IXG 1\ SWAMP 
 
 93 
 
 and is forced through sheer exhaustion to emero-e 
 from his Turkish bath. Whether this cure Is 
 beneficial in the treatment of the various diseases 
 to which Indians are subject. I am unable to say, 
 but they all place great faith in its healing powers. ' 
 To our great sorrow Daukhan himself, two days 
 after we left the Pine River, became an invalid, 
 suftering great pain from lumbago. It seems 
 curious that a savage should feel the injurious 
 effects of a climate and a mode of life to which 
 he has been used since childhood, but such is 
 nevertheless the case. It is the greatest mistake 
 to suppose that savage man enjoys uninterrupted 
 health. In the North-West. every man, whether 
 white or Indian, is sure sooner or later to become 
 a martyr to rheumatism and like complaints. And 
 no wonder. 
 
 I am afraid that I have entirely failed to give 
 any idea of the real nature of the country thro^ugh 
 which we had passed, all of which would apply 
 equally to the region through which we were 
 destined to go. Unless an actual day-by-day diary 
 were given, it is almost impossible to show the 
 extraordinary amount of damp to which we were 
 subject. To begin with, it rained almost every 
 day, and even when the sky was unclouded the 
 bush was nearly always very wet, so that one be- 
 came thoroughly soaked from top to toe before the 
 morning's work was over. For many days to- 
 
■w< 
 
 / 
 
 'M i<<' 
 
 
 n 
 
 94 
 
 Tin-: I,A\D OF THE MUSKF.C. 
 
 gether one walked continually in swamp or muskeg 
 to the ankle, and often for hours at a time in water 
 reaching well above the knee. But all this was of 
 small consequence. A warm fire would always dry 
 out one's clothes as one stood, so that one went to 
 bed moderately dry. But it w^as during the night 
 that the damp worked its worst upon us. We had 
 small waterproof sheets under our blankets, and 
 these were of great service to us, but one piece 
 of waterproof will do little against an acre of water. 
 It must be understood that on many occasions 
 one could plunge one's hand out of bed to the 
 wrist, or even to the elbow, if one had a mind to, in 
 slushy water or sodden moss and mud. Of course 
 now and again we found hard pieces of ground, and 
 even made dry camp ; but the country as a whole 
 was nothing but a vast morass, and in this sodden 
 condition we marched and worked and slept. I 
 have heard people who ought to know say that 
 England is a damp climate to camp in, but England 
 at its wettest would be child's-play to this rain- 
 haunted land, and not to be compared with it for 
 a moment. Looking back on the expedition now I 
 do not wonder that we were delayed a little by 
 sickness, but I always marvel that we all got out of 
 that country alive, or at least without some serious 
 illness. And the most amusing part of the whole 
 thing was, that one of the party had gone there 
 under doctor's orders. But of course, neither this 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
■^ 
 
 CAMl'IXc; I\ SWA^IP 
 
 95 
 
 :r 
 
 medical adviser, nor any one else for that matter 
 liad any idea of the nature of the country. 
 
 There is a conspiracy of silence about worthless 
 British possessions. One remarks with wonder 
 the notes of Mine soil ' and 'open rollincr country' 
 on the maps of a territory wiiere the casual 
 traveller can hnd nothino- but muske- and sludcry 
 ■swamp. Now and again, hidden away in ''a 
 corner, one may hnd a tiny 'marshN.' and a few 
 infinitesimal tufts of grass marked upon a Govern- 
 ment map. as though the conscience of the map- 
 maker had pricked him, and driven him to fill up 
 some neglected corner. But of the miles of worth- 
 less country, of the useless rotting timber and the 
 bare, barren mountain, there is never a word or a 
 sign. Of course no one can expect to find definite 
 information about unexplored country, and it were 
 folly to condemn a district because so many others 
 are bad, but if the maker of maps were honest he 
 would use the dotted line in many places where he 
 now fills in with a bold stroke, as though he knew 
 the surface of the country and the lay of the land 
 It IS natural that he who makes a map or writes a 
 book about the land of his birth should smooth 
 over many little deficiencies, and should draw a 
 little on his imagination In depicting advantao-es 
 which may have accidentally been omitted in the 
 creation. The vanity seems a harmless one, and 
 to judge from present evidence, it has been freely 
 
'VfTK 
 
 I I 1 1- ■ mfv^mirmmm^mmrww 
 
 I- 
 
 w. 
 
 \ , 
 
 It . 
 
 
 96 
 
 rUl': LAND OI- TIM' MlSKl-C. 
 
 indul!:,fecl. But when one considers that men 
 wlio know the true state of affairs actually pass 
 it over, thus consciously enticing the unwary emi- 
 grant to strike out from the borders of civilisation 
 and starve in a hard and cruel country, the vanity 
 becomes a crime, and a crime of no mean magnitude. 
 
 For the unfortunate settler 
 cannot know if the land be 
 good or worthless when the 
 maps say that all the land 
 is good. But happily, as a 
 matter of fact, few emigrants 
 have as yet pushed beyond 
 the fertile plains of the Sas- 
 katchewan and the lulmonton 
 district, for the truth about the 
 North is leaking out, and men 
 are beginning to realise that 
 the vast territory from the 
 Athabaska to the Barren 
 Grounds and on to the Arctic 
 Ocean is practically worthless 
 for agricultural purposes. 
 There is, however, a little gold in the rivers, which, 
 with improved machinery, might be worked to 
 some small profit in spite of the short summer 
 season. Gold will draw men into any country ; 
 and so it has ha])pened that, from time to time, 
 a few, more adventurous or more foolish than 
 
 FlSIl Sl'KAK 
 
 t 
 
 
CAMPINc; IX SWAMP g^ 
 
 their fellows, have penetrated to the Peace River 
 country. -^uLr 
 
 Some years ago a man arrived at Dunvegan 
 prospectmg for precious metals, and set out up the' 
 nver m the early spring. Months went by and 
 st.l he d,d not return, and at last, in the latter 
 part of August, a search party was organised. One 
 day '>e Indians found him. He was lying under 
 a bush feebly clawing at a few berries. The skin 
 had shrunken from his face, and his lips, 'like two 
 ■nes of gnstle,' were drawn back, showing his 
 tee h, wh,bt his eyes seemed bursting from their 
 sockets H,s reason had left him, so that he tried 
 to crawl away from his captors, and even to fi.ht 
 them off with his teeth when they came up\o 
 where he was lying. It .seems that through some 
 accKfan he had lost his provisions, and had lived 
 tor three months on roots and berries 
 
 Another man had started nearer the mountains 
 and had gone up one of the rivers. He was a 
 mus,c,a„ and had taken his banjo with him. Some 
 months later a boat coming down the river was 
 rowed qu.ckly past a point because of the fearful 
 stench ,n that place. When the men got a little 
 lower down some of them returned and found 
 ilanjo Chariey,'as the unfortunate had been called 
 corrupted almost beyond recognition, and lying 
 with his banjo beside him. 
 
 The Indians themselves suffer fearful periods of 
 
 G 
 
i 
 
 If 
 
 I 
 
 if 
 
 I 
 
 '(M ■ . 
 
 ill 
 
 h 
 
 lilt 
 
 r ' 
 
 I'll'' , 
 
 IP 
 
 98 
 
 THIC LAND Ol- Till.: MlSKia; 
 
 Starvation, and I have even heard of cases where 
 men have been driven to devour each other. In a 
 land where the native starves, what chance is there 
 for the white man ? 
 
 But let me return to our expedition. 
 
^vhere 
 
 In a 
 
 tlu-'i't; 
 
 > 
 
 C 1 1 A V T \i R V 
 
 ON Till'; TRACK OK A Ckl/./.W 
 
 Daukhan, for all his hardiness and strenj^th, was 
 utterly broken down from the continued damp, and 
 had fallen a victim to excruciating |)ains of rheuma- 
 tism. This was a pretty serious matter— for without 
 him we should be hopelessly lost in this trackless 
 wilderr'jss. However, the Doctor did the best he 
 could for him, dosing him with salicylate of soda, 
 and finally building up a plaster of Paris support 
 round his waist and back, which delighted Daukhan 
 beyond measure, and I believe he kept the plaster in 
 its place for weeks after he had entirely recovered. 
 As the country became worse, our progress had 
 grown daily slower, and now that Daukhan was 
 /wrs dc combat we cast about for some remedy or 
 help. About thirty miles from wlu;re we were 
 there was a large sheet of water, known as 
 Moberley's Lake. Daukhan said that many Ben- cr 
 Indians hunted round its shores, and that we should 
 be almost certain to find them in that district at 
 that particular time, as the berry season was comin'>- 
 on and they w^ould be collected together picking 
 
 'JU 
 
 1 
 
 A 
 
100 
 
 Tin- l-AND Ol' THi: .MlSKlil. 
 
 ■i 
 
 t\ « 
 
 if 
 
 i'lvi 
 
 berries upon the hillsides. After much discussion 
 it seemitd the wisest thini;- to send some of our 
 party to this lake to try and tjet an Indian to join 
 our expedition in the capacity of axe-man, to help 
 to clear a path for the horses. We were also badly 
 in want of moccasins, for wc had used these com- 
 fortable shoes too freely on the march, and wc knew 
 that it woukl be quite hopeless to attempt to hunt 
 in ordinary boots. 
 
 A moccasin is to all intents and purposes a 
 leather sock, so that the foot has full l)lay, and can 
 bend and ,<4ras[) as nature intended. At the lirst 
 attempt the pains of walking practically barefooted 
 amongst sticks and sharp stones are of cour.*- 
 severe. Hut after a few days the foot becon 
 hardened, and can stand much knocking about, and 
 then it is that one begins to appreciate what Mr. 
 Pike happily names ' the moccasin of freedom,' and 
 to despise the boot of civilisation ; for you soon find 
 that you can walk easily, swiftly, and silently for 
 long distances without becoming tired, that your 
 foot docs not stick in deep mud, that you can move 
 with ease upon slippery logs, and, most important 
 of all, that you do not break every twig that you 
 may chance to step on. It would be utterly 
 hopeless to attempt to stalk in boots in a North 
 Western forest. You would see more <rame in 
 Piccadilly. And now we realised that we had 
 not enough moccasins, and thought that we might 
 
 
ON IIIl". I RACK Ol A i.RlZ/A.Y 
 
 lOI 
 
 be able to net some from tlie Inclians round the 
 lake at the saiiK! time that we i^ot our axc-man. 
 Daukhan said that there was a trail kom the river 
 to the lake, and that if only he could fnul the place 
 where five years before he had killetl two youn^- 
 moose, he would be able to set us on it. l-'or two 
 
 OIK (AMI' IN 'rill. \\i.i.i;v 
 
 days Daukhan was unable to move, but on the 
 third, after a very hard daj's work amongst fallen 
 timber and swamps, we descended into a little 
 valley and found the whitened poles of an old camp. 
 Daukhan said that this was the place where he ' ate 
 the moose,' and very soon we found a blade-bone 
 and other relics of this long-past meal. When one 
 comes to think that he had only visited the district 
 once, and that five years ago, one realises the 
 
l\ > 
 
 1 02 
 
 rin-: land oI' ihI': miskiic. 
 
 ,j 
 
 »' 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 <!■ 
 
 f 
 
 
 i'l' 
 
 extraordinary memory for places wliich the Indians 
 possess ; but it is more than a higiily developed 
 bi^mp of locality — it is a special instinct. Daukhan, 
 for instance, had brought us from Dunvegan to the 
 Pine River, a distance of close upon i 50 miles, with- 
 out the aid of a trail for more than half the way, and 
 with hardly any idea of the meaning of a maj\ And 
 now he brought us in a straight line to a place where 
 he had only campeJ for a few days live years before. 
 
 So now, as soon as we had camped, Pollen got 
 ready to go to Moberley's Lake, taking John Knot 
 as an interpreter, whilst Daukhan, who knew most 
 of the Indians, though he did not speak the Heaver 
 tongue, said he was well enough to accompany 
 them on horseback as guide. Round, Ramsey, the 
 Doctor, and I were to remain in the camp to mind 
 the horses and goods, and to do what hunting we 
 could. I^arly in the afternoon th(^ expedition 
 started on horseback to the lake, taking a pack- 
 horse with them, and one other animal for the use 
 of the Indian whom they proposed to firing back. 
 
 After they were gone, I set out to e.\[)lore the 
 countr)- by myself, and found it simply alive with 
 game. The ground was covered with lon^- orass 
 and wild pea plant, which the bears are \ery fond 
 of, and everywhere there were long lines where 
 some animal had roamed, feeding as he went. Here 
 and there one could see where a bear had rolle,J in 
 the grass, whilst the soft mud by the river-sides 
 
ans 
 
 the 
 ith- 
 
 Lnd 
 
 icrc 
 
 )re. 
 
 lot 
 xst 
 
 er 
 
 ind 
 
 ion 
 
 ISC 
 
 iie 
 
 ith 
 
 ISS 
 
 .'re 
 
I ^. 
 
 
 u 
 
 )k 
 
 ill* .» 
 
 104 
 
 THI<: LAM) OI- TH1<: .MUSKliC. 
 
 and in the muskegs was covered with the tracks of 
 black bear and grizzly. In every open space I ex- 
 pected to find a huge beast sunning himself, or at 
 least to hear the crack of branches in the underbrush. 
 Just as I was mounting a small hill, I came upon 
 the perfectly fresh track of a grizzly of great size. 
 The wind was light and favourable, so I followed 
 
 rapidly, and 
 as silently as 
 possible, until 
 I came to a 
 patch of bush. 
 The tracks 
 led 
 into 
 
 undergrowth, 
 and soon I 
 could hear 
 the bear snap- 
 ping twigs at 
 the further 
 end of the 
 clump, about 
 eighty yards 
 away. I was standing on a little hill, and could 
 see over a portion of the clump, and I noticed 
 that in the centre there was an open space amongst 
 the bushes. Creeping quietly on hands and 
 knees through the undergrowth, I came to the 
 
 straight 
 the 
 
 rUACK Ol- A (JKIZ/LV 
 
 L. ^ 
 
ON THI-: TRACK OJ" A (.Rl///A.\ 
 
 '^ 
 
 to5 
 
 opening- and waited. The cl 
 
 the 
 
 d; 
 
 car space was not 
 
 more uiaii len yards across, 
 could liear the griz>:ly amongst the bushes. He 
 appeared to be eating ants, for lie grunted and 
 coughed quietly, and his scent came down the wind 
 to me like the smell of a kennel of dogs. I dared 
 not move forward, for though the animal rould not 
 have been thirty yards ;ava)'. he was completely 
 hidden in the bush, and every moment he was 
 coming a little nearer, so I remained quietly waiting 
 till he should move from behind the thick bushes and 
 step into the little space where I sat. When once 
 he showed himself, I trusted that the hea\-y rifle 
 which I carried woiild finish him off; at all events, 
 I hoped to take him completely by surprise, and so 
 waited anxiously for the encounter. The bear drew 
 nearer and nearer, and every m'unent the smell 
 grew stronger, so that I was just j-i naring to meet 
 him when I heard the wind coming uj- th- valley 
 behind me. All day the air had been- liglv and 
 shifting, but from the sound in the trees /^judged 
 that a strong breeze had come up and would soon 
 be upon me. My position now became very serious, 
 for I saw at once that m>- scent would be carried 
 straight towards the bear, and one of two things 
 was sure to happen,— either he would run away, or 
 charge me on the moment, and neither was exactly 
 what I wished. There is a vast difference between 
 shooting a bear as he emerges from the bush, 
 
 i 
 
ra ^ 
 
 1 06 
 
 THM LAM) OF THK MUSKEG 
 
 Iff^t J 
 
 
 ! 
 
 ^ 
 
 I 
 
 > 
 
 however close at hand, and standing the charge 
 of a huge and infuriated griz/ly in dense under- 
 brush. But before I had time to move the wind 
 was upon me. and, with a gre^t crashing of boughs, 
 the bear made his charge, coming, as it seemed, 
 straiglit at me. All I could do was to stand with 
 my heart in my mouth and wait for him. But 
 instead of rushing at me as I had expected, he bore 
 off to the right and made for a little hill. All this 
 time I never once caught a glimpse of him, and 
 could only judge of his movements by the breaking 
 of branches and crashin<>: in the bush. But as soon 
 as I realised that he was not coming towards me I 
 retreated into the open and ran round the clump, 
 hoping to get a sight of him. I could not under- 
 stand why he had charged the hill, but I afterwards 
 discovered that nr. scent would have blown that way, 
 and doubtless the bear had caught it when the wind 
 sw'ipt back towards him from the rising ground. 
 
 To my great disappointment I never saw the 
 beast at all, for he had apparently made off across 
 the open as soon as he found that he had charged 
 in the wrong direction. The adventure had been 
 an exciting one, and I should without doubt have 
 had a very unpleasant time if, in the event of the 
 bear showing himself, my bullet had not taken 
 inmiediate effect. But as it was, I felt that fate 
 had been very hard on me, more especially when I 
 heard the wind drop a few moments after the bear 
 
 «t 
 
''- 
 
 ON THIi TRACK OV A C.IUZZLY loy 
 
 had gone. However, I continued to hunt for the 
 next few days, but although I came across number- 
 ess tracks I never sighted a bear. Once a black 
 bear roamed round the camp in the night, but he 
 was soon scared away by the stampeding of the 
 horses. On the third day, Pollen, Daukhan, and 
 John returned from the lake. They had been 
 unable to find any Indians, and so we should be 
 obliged to go without the extra axe-man and with- 
 out the moccasins. They had, however, met with 
 several adventures on tlie wa)-. I append Pollen's 
 own account. 
 
 ' Two hours- careful riding had taken us clear of 
 the muskeg that stretched across the valley, and 
 once on the firm ground on the other side we made 
 good progress. The country was beautiful-sphi. y 
 grass under foot, and a great diversity of trets 
 scattered on the rolling hills. I suppose we had 
 gone some twelve or fifteen miles before we struck 
 the hills that cut into the top of the valley, and 
 found the Indian trail that leads from the North 
 Pine to Moberley s Lake. But look as we would 
 there was never a trace of its having been used 
 this >ear. A regular camping-ground of the Beavers 
 lay some three miles beyond us, and Daukhan said 
 there would be another trail converging there. So 
 on we went, and soon came upon a' series of Hats 
 that rise by steps some hundred feet at a time 
 towards the dividing mountains at the head and 
 
 
 4 
 
f 
 
 !^ 
 
 m'l 
 
 t 
 
 1 08 
 
 THl-: LAND OI' THF, MUSKI-C. 
 
 north side of the valley. These Hats cover a ,ijreat 
 s[)ace of ground, and are bounded on their lower 
 level by a series of long lakes, varying from one- 
 to three-quarters of a mile in length, and about a 
 couple of hundred yards across. I believe I was 
 the first European to explore them ; and they cer- 
 tainly were well worth seeing. 
 
 ' It was as we topped the second rise that a little 
 way ahead of us we saw a tall wooden cross rising 
 amonLTSt the trees. Nothing- could be more eJo- 
 quent of the faith and nationality of the missionaries 
 who had visited these tribes ; and for a moment one 
 could have imagined oneself on the outskirts of a 
 French village in the mountain foot-hills of the Jura. 
 The cross showed that one of the tribe had been 
 buried then,' ; and a little beyond we found some 
 half-dozen sets of lodge poles, a sweating- house, 
 fireplaces, and frames for stretching moose-skins. 
 There was no doubt about its being the camping- 
 place, but had it been used this year.'' It was with 
 anxious eyes that we hunted round ; for on some 
 evidence of recent use of at least the trail depended 
 the success of our ex[)edition. Hut an hour's search 
 ended in no discovery of what we wanted ; and so, 
 dispirited and tired- for it was getting near evening 
 — we turned back and made a camp on the lower 
 fiat over the last of the semicircle of lakes. 
 
 ' Daukhan was in the lowest of spirits : he was a 
 man who hated failure, and to come all this wav, to 
 
 h\ 
 
ON THI- TRACK Ol' A GRIZZLY 
 
 109 
 
 Je 
 
 have wasted two valuable days, for it was a lont^' 
 march home, and all for nothing, depressed him. I 
 fancy, too, that the exertion of the morning's march 
 and the long ride 
 had set his rheuma- ,// ' 
 
 tism at work again. 
 We made our fire 
 for supper in 
 silence ; and while 
 John boiled the 
 kettle and made 
 bread, I toiled down 
 the steep bank to 
 the lake, some hun- 
 dred feet below us, 
 to bathe. On my 
 return I found 
 supper ready, and 
 with food our spirits 
 revived, and in 
 a rather better 
 humour we lit our 
 pipes and sat on the 
 crest of the hill to 
 watch the fading 
 irlories of the sunset, 
 
 ' Before us stretched the long valley we hatl 
 travelled over during the day, the black shadows 
 of the knoll at the further side of the lake cuttinL"" 
 
 
 ■^••^ ■"-*;» - '^-f. 
 
 IS oi'KN (orNTin- 
 
tn 
 
 '.■ V 
 
 I lO 
 
 Till-: LAND OF THE MUSKFXi 
 
 off the mountains on our right ; but on the left they 
 spread in uninterrupted series until they touched 
 the soft turquoise of the evening sky, range on range 
 of pale blue mountains, sometimes tree-covered, 
 sometimes gaunt and rocky, but all their asperity 
 softened by the haze of distance and the glamour 
 of the setting- sun. In the air was the still silence 
 that only comes in the wilderness, and was unbroken, 
 save for the occasional cry of a loon that circled 
 overhead. Below us the lake lay like a gigantic 
 mirror, every leaf and branch o( the reflected trees 
 showing clear and sharp. 
 
 'As John took his place at my side, he accidentally 
 moved a large stone at his feet, and in a second it 
 was rolling and then leaping down the hill. A 
 moment's stillness, and then a deep "splosh" told 
 of the end of its course. The thinij set us lausjfhine 
 like a lot of schoolboys ; the game became general, 
 and soon we were up and scouring the land for 
 more stones to throw. I have been told that grave 
 professors have been known to indulge in this 
 entertainment in the Alps, to the fatal detriment 
 of village cattle below them, and indeed I can 
 understand any one being bitten by so fascinating 
 an amusement. For us the discovery was a god- 
 send ; and before we had wearied of it I )aukhan 
 was himself again, and ready to discuss plans. 
 
 ' Was it worth while to spend another day going 
 to Moberley's Lake? It was difficult to get at the 
 
 i A ' 
 
mm^ 
 
 O.N TIIM TRACK Ol' A (iRIZZLN' 
 
 I I I 
 
 probabilities. Daukhan's half-wild mind worked in 
 obscure paths; and although John was a tactful 
 interpreter, it was a long job before I was able to 
 get at any sort of judgment on the matter. How- 
 ever, it finally appeared that there was still a trail 
 from our side that led to the lake ; and there was 
 always a chance that from the other side some part 
 of the tribe had made their way to the-quasi-settle- 
 ment for the summer. One thing appeared certain : 
 poor as this chance seemed, it was our only one. 
 It is true, it meant another day, but our need of 
 moccasins Avas great, and if we could get old Cayahn, 
 a splendid axe-man, our time and labour would be 
 well laid out. And so we went to bed, resolved to 
 be up with the dawn, and to get to the lake and back 
 to our camp before evening. 
 
 'Our plan was carried out to the letter. It was 
 a long and a wearisome march, many awkward 
 passages of rock, and with long interval of fallen 
 timber to puzzle the horses, and a fair allowance of 
 muskeg and marsh as we neared the lake. Hut. 
 except for the splendour of the view, there was 
 nothing to repay our trouble. No one had been 
 there since the previous year. The fishing-nets 
 were carefully cached in birch-bark roggans high 
 in the trees ; ketdes and other luxuries of permanent 
 camp were also safely bestowed ; every t! lil was 
 heavily overgrown with brambles and flocks. Evi- 
 dently what we had already half expected had 
 
i 
 
 u 
 
 .-J 
 
 '■' 
 
 1 
 i 
 
 
 I 12 
 
 THi' i,\\i) oi" rin- MrsKi'C. 
 
 happened — the Indians had moved down in a body 
 to Fort St. John. Perhaps it was a selfish consola- 
 tion, but in spite of the loss of three days to the 
 expedition, I could not, as I looked on Moberley's 
 Lake, reijret tiiat I had come. The expanse of 
 water seemed enormous, hemmed in as it was by 
 
 i;iKi ii-ii.\i(K i;o(;(;.\Ns 
 
 hit^h mountains on either side, and between the 
 converging slopes at the further end the two peaks 
 of the Bull's IU;ad and the Porcupine glistened in 
 the noonday sun. Every turn and contour of the 
 shores — at one point steep and bristling with rugged 
 pines, at another shelving away in arable prairie — 
 was invested with a strange charm of harmonious 
 shape and hue. The water itself was of a colour I 
 had never seen before ; and as we waded on horse- 
 
ox Tin- TRACK ()I A (;ri/ziA- 
 
 buck 
 
 of the lake, it 
 
 '13 
 
 across tlie rapid stream that for 
 seemed as if we were 
 
 of a h'ciuid opal in which the sun! 
 
 Ills the oudet 
 in the midst 
 
 IL' 
 
 ht was kindiino- 
 
 ever-shiftin.<,r sparks of lire 
 
 ' There was nothing for it but to go back, and it 
 was ah-eady dusk as we rode down to the flat where 
 we had camped overnight. I should have said that 
 HI the low ground at the end of the first lake 
 through which we came before mounting to the 
 level of our camp, we had seen several bear-tracks 
 and Daukhan thought it might be worth while in 
 the early morning to watch this track on the chance 
 of a bear crossing, more especially as the place was 
 all overgrown with pea-vine, of which " mysthah- 
 ayah •• IS specially fond. So to-night we made our 
 hre out of sight of this, some thousand yards further 
 along the lake, where the land was lower. The lake 
 Itself here was lost in thick rushes, already crisp 
 and dead, and one had to get water by wadincMxit 
 through mud. When we had got some, it tested 
 rank and sour from the rush-seeds that had been 
 rotting in it all the summer, and completely spoiled 
 the cocoa to which we were looking forward. So we 
 fell on tobacco early to forget the disappointment, 
 and for the first time I got on fairly intimate terms 
 with Daukhan. 
 
 ' It seemed that ever since the stai t it had weicrhed 
 on his spirit that he had so many masters ; it'was 
 not part of his bargain that he should be ordered 
 
 II 
 
■^ 
 
 I 
 
 114 
 
 'ini-: LAND ()i- TMi-: mtskicc; 
 
 \i I' 
 
 i I 
 
 11 
 
 » 
 
 IF 
 
 about by every one. and the disrespect was painlul. 
 Now, I was sure that neitlier Round nor Ramsey 
 nor the Doctor had ever ordered him about at all, 
 nor yet Somerset or I ; but if that was his i^rievance, 
 it liad to be set at rest. So I explained that all 
 ordering about was uninter.tional, and that the 
 mistake must have arisen from our poor acquaint- 
 ance with the language, that .Somerset and I alone 
 were the Oukimovvs, and that, coming to a strange 
 country, had asked him, another Oukimow, to guide 
 us through ; we were entirely innocent of wishing 
 to order him ; thac, situated as we were, all had to 
 do what work they could, and he, being so much 
 stronger and hanlier than any of us, no doubt much 
 fell upon his shoulders, but that we appreciated 
 his good-will and energy immensely. As for the 
 march, the matter was entirely in his hands. We 
 knew w^e could trust him, because we had heard 
 such good accounts of him before we came, and, 
 moreover, had found everything we had hoped 
 verified by our experience ; that without him we 
 could do nothing, and were entirely relying on his 
 perseverance and skill to get to our journey's end. 
 This long speech entirely reassured his suspicious 
 nature, and we fell to talking of other things, Dau- 
 khan being particularly delighted with various details 
 of English life. A city, he thought, must be a very 
 perplexing place to live in, and very dangerous. 
 The Queen, too, for whom prayers were offered 
 
<'\ Tin; IK.\(Koi.-.\(,klZ/I,V ,,^ 
 
 after every niass on Sundajs at tlie Mission, in- 
 ~cl I.m . neatly. I )icl si.e rule th. Huelson's 
 i^ay Ccnpany. or did tlu: lludsons liay Company 
 -'<^Her? ^Vhat was slu. ]iI<o. and how did sh 
 j,^ovcrn? Conld slic do uhat she liked ? I fear 
 i^^- was d.sappoiiued at learnin^r that the Ouecn 
 .^■racous and dearly beloved as she was by he.- 
 subjects, was yet not their .absolute ruler No 
 doubt. I explained, did she choose, there were 
 many thmgs she could do that she refrained fro.n. 
 \\ hy . asked Daukhan. It was rather a problem 
 cxpoundmo- a theory of constitutional monarchy to 
 a primitive man ; but the following,, was the best 
 attempt I could make :— 
 
 'The Queen had more subjects than any one 
 could ima^^ine. AH the inhabitants of any coun^ry 
 )aukhan had seen would not fill a single street of 
 London, and London had thousands of streets, and 
 there were thousands of cities almost as lanre as 
 London. I hese people, too, were scattered alUver 
 the world. How could one person know what was 
 best for all of them? and so the Queen, anxious 
 that her people should be happy, allowed them in 
 each country to choose chiefs and send them to 
 large councils, so that each chief could speak for 
 the needs of the people that sent him. and then 
 advise the Queen what to do. However much she 
 might disagree with her chiefs, still she always ch'd 
 what they advised, because she would rather oo 
 
ii6 
 
 IHl'. LAM) Ol" THE .MISKI'C 
 
 P f 
 
 t 
 
 at^ainst her own judgment than let her people sup- 
 pose she was not anxious for iheir good. This 
 explanation pleased, for it reminded Daukhan of the 
 stories his father had told him of the j;''Overnment of 
 his nation in the days wh^^ni the Crees were a great 
 uniced tribe ; but I had misgivings that neither 
 history nor lav- would bear me out in my account 
 of it! 
 
 ' It was in the midst of this conversation tha'i \ 
 low long-drawn note came to u from the mountain 
 where the Moberley's Lake trail lay. Daukhan v as 
 up in an instant, and putting his clasped hands 
 to his mouth emitted a reply exactly similar. 
 This was again answered, and Daukhan resumed 
 his seat, saying — as John translated it — "It is a 
 person.' It appears this was the regular call of 
 the Indians, and doubtless some Beaver had seen 
 our camp, and was calling out to us to keep up 
 the fire and have ^he kettle ready for a welcome. 
 Here was lixk ! The very thing we thought we 
 had mis'-';f!. So the talk resumed, now on one 
 topic, now on another, until an hour had gone 
 by, when, no one having come, Daukhan called 
 again. This time there was no answer. Another 
 call w^as as fruitless, and after a w:ilk round to a 
 spot where a full view of the mountain could be 
 obtained, and no fire was se^-n, I^aukhan sat down, 
 saying it was a " chepi or ghost that we had heard. 
 I was a little incredulous. " What else could it be ?" 
 
 
 .^ 
 
ON TlUl TRACK OF A ( rEMZZILT 
 
 II 
 
 he asked; "it is not an owl. nor l :. . : c a 
 wolverine; we heard the loons yefCirizT h v -^^ 
 not a younLj- bear. Nc. it was i .::i.t;: — ^: 1 hr 
 went on to explain how before die Ie:i— --- wtre 
 civilised (this was the word \ohri. ^^--l - H5 
 translation) they had killed zjad tm t-- ---' tiziih 
 other recklessly; that the shoce.^ .:c ' T .-—;.-: js 
 Lake were full of I'hosts : how di*; : ., : ibv- 
 inexplicable noises tliat were coasdn^^ : t._-i '.\-^e 
 be explained ? It certainly wlls .1 u^eri — -_ 1 i^ 
 
 human cry out of the darkness, and r^ ~^- >- 
 
 to explain it ; for, as Daukhan said, i Z- .-. - - -.^-^ ^s 
 well at night as by day, and s<ieinc .~: lie 
 
 would surely have come to it. Xocir . __ rr^sd 
 the riddle, and with this real gh- .^^r-^nrr - .ui 
 minds we made our beds and Dn;..,_r-" " - -,".---^, 
 by the glow of the dying hre. Eiiu l ~.,„: -:- 
 startling scare was awaiting us. 
 
 ' I had just packed my cartridge-b.:-:i ~ -.o-rafSTHi. 
 and heavier clothes under my pillow vi.-: : h-.--^' 
 a heavy step in the dead rushes ;U: die 1^ :' ir^ 
 hke, not twenty yards from where x- vi-- In 
 anctiier second came another sfc;:. x-l,. il^-u 
 anot.ier. I did not need to lo(^k ii: I>r.iiui.._r. v- 
 gue:>s what it was, but when [ die. jr wi:^ : ^t-t 
 him crouching on one knee, with tiis ct:>--: - -'- - 
 h's hand and the gun shedth ly.i '^ at L- - -. :.:, 
 
 made a silent dash for my ritle, but i^^ -... ^- _„v 
 got its case off; and reassuring mvs-; —^ .: v-^s 
 
IT 
 
 III 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 'i 
 
 w f 
 
 ■I 
 
 
 
 ir 
 
 ^' ; 
 
 ii8 
 
 riii' LAND oi- rm: MrsKico 
 
 loaded, pushed the safety-bolt u]), and knelt with it 
 ready to fire as soon as 1 could see. " Mysthah- 
 ayah," whispered Uaukhan, and John got to the 
 other side of the fire with the axe in his hand. 
 Slowly the footsteps came towards us, as if tlie 
 grizzly was uncertain to come or no ; and the minute 
 or so seemed a veritable aije. The nioht was 
 pitchy dark. The Hre had died down so low that 
 it threw but a pale and uncertain light over the 
 bushes that rose only ten \ards from us. and shut 
 out the rushes from our view. The st'tps came 
 nearer, so near that I was sure h j must by now be 
 clear of the reeds and already in the little screen of 
 bush that lay between us and him. It was a trying 
 and exciting moment, but I felt pretty confident in 
 my 500-exi)ress, and was getting impatient to have 
 the thing over. But once clear of the reeds the 
 footsteps ceased. Evidently he was waiting to 
 decide which he would charge, and Daukhan and I, 
 like two statues, knelt in motionless expectation. 
 The tension was becoming unendurable, for at such 
 close quarters, and in the dark, the encounter would 
 be a pretty uncertain matter, and I was watching 
 the bushes with such strainin<>' eves for the least 
 sign of motion that more than once they all seemed 
 to dance and vanish to my aching sight, 
 
 ' A full two minutes must ha\'c; passed in this 
 anxious silence when our ears were saluted with a 
 chuckling chirrup, so pert, so sudden, so completely 
 
f 
 
 ox THI' TRACK Ol' A C.RV/.ZLY 
 
 119 
 
 (T 
 
 absurd, that for a moment I could make nothino- of 
 it. But a little shake of boughs and another volley 
 of chatterino- explained It all. To use a slan_ 
 phrase, the squirrel had got the lau_«;h on us! I 
 could not help bein"- rather olad, as we o-ot 
 back lau-^hino- to bed, that Daukhan had been as 
 much fooled as I was. Certainly nothino- more 
 like the tread of a heavy, slow-movinj^ beast can 
 be imagined than the series of leaps with which 
 this alarming little animal had made its way 
 through the dense forest of rushes.' 
 
 
 IIAKI'OON I'OIN'IS 
 
1^, 
 
 I 
 
 ^\ 
 
 f 
 
 A 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 
 JOHN'S PROPHECY 
 
 So now Wit had to hurry on again, for we had lost 
 valuable time, and Daukhan said that tlie bears 
 were moving up to the foot-hills, where the berries 
 were now^ ripening. In one place we discovered 
 another deserted camp of the Beaver Indians. 
 They had apparently been hunting in the country, 
 but had made a raft and gone down the Pine 
 River. Unfortunately they had had several dogs 
 with them, and these had ranged the whole valley 
 hunting. I should imagine that there were at least 
 five of them, for we found footprints in many soft 
 places. A bear will travel any distance to avoid a 
 dog, and so we saw no fresh signs for some time. 
 This was most unlucky for us, as the country was 
 full of raspberries and a sweet berry called the 
 saskatoon, which the bears are very fond of. In 
 fact, we had intended to make some stay at this 
 point and hunt, for Daukhan had said that two 
 Indians had once killed thirty black bears and two 
 grizzlies in two days amongst the berry bushes 
 upon the hillsides near that part of the river. 
 
 120 
 
 ' ,1 
 
 •> 
 
 1 ii 
 
4' 
 
 John's pRoi'Hiicv 121 
 
 But the dogs had driven the game out of the 
 district. 
 
 Our stock of bacon was getting alarmingly low 
 so we decided to knock off meat altogether. We 
 had still a considerable amount of grease, so we 
 fried the bread for our meals. Besides the bacon 
 and flour we had some dried fruits, which we took 
 twice a week to counteract the unwholesome effects 
 of too salt a diet. This fruit now stood us in -ood 
 stead, and we ate it every other day as a second 
 course after the bread and fat. But every day it 
 became more imperatively necessary for us to find 
 game, and lean less heavily on our scanty stock of 
 provisions. It will be remembered that we had 
 bought all the available pack-horses in the countrv 
 and had loaded them as heavily as we dared ; bui 
 although we had eaten the two small bear cubs and 
 the beaver, we had been too busy travelling to 
 keep the camp in meat with our rifles. Now\nd 
 again we had added a grouse or a duck to our 
 supper, and at times had chanced upon a feu- 
 rabbits ; but so paltry an addition did not suffice to 
 feed seven hungry men even for one meal. A 
 single man travelling through the country would 
 probably be able to snare enough rabbits to keep 
 off starvation, but a large party is more difficult to 
 feed. 
 
 The Indians themselves, who generally hunt in 
 small parties, depend greatly upon rabbits. But 
 
 I 
 
 
 ul 
 
 \y\ 
 
122 
 
 rill': LAND OF riii' mi'ski-c. 
 
 i« 
 
 for some mysterious reason the rabbits in the 
 North- West die out every seven years. Between 
 whiles there; arc; a fair number all through the 
 country ; but every seventh year they disai)pear, 
 so that on(; may travel for months without coming 
 
 across a single; one. 
 The consequence is 
 that at these times 
 many of the Indians 
 starve, and as the 
 game in the district 
 becomes more scarce, 
 the number of deaths 
 amongst the natives 
 becomes greater 
 every seventh year. 
 The vast majority of 
 the Indian tribes, both 
 in Canada and in the 
 United States, are 
 supported by the 
 Government. But it 
 must be borne in 
 mind that these northern Indians are not even 
 British subjects, but are an alien race upon a soil 
 that is British only in name. In a few years 
 the Hudson's Bay Company will be compelled 
 to withdraw its officers, as the fur trade will no 
 longer be of any importance. Then the natives 
 
 JOHN 
 
 
mm^m 
 
 ^mm^gmmm 
 
 wm 
 
 mmm 
 
 M 
 
 the 
 veen 
 
 the 
 Dear, 
 
 •t 
 
 John's pkoi'hixv 
 
 123 
 
 will have no bartering-place for their goods, and 
 indeed would have nothing to barter when the fur- 
 bearing animals are finally killed out. Unable to 
 till the ground, and in a land where all but the 
 carnivora will be extinct, they will undoubtedly 
 starve unless the Government steps in and saves 
 them, and burdens itself with the; feeding and 
 clothing of some 12.000 souls. 
 
 The future of the country is not bright, nor was its 
 present aspect very cheerful about the time of which 
 I_ am writing. We continued to march for some 
 time through a succession of muskegs and patches 
 of fallen timber, whilst a drizzling rain continued to 
 fall during almost every day. Once we had a 
 really fine daj', and made our camp in the evening 
 in high spirits, for the sky was cloudless and the 
 night still. We were so sure of the weather that 
 we did not even unfurl the tent or stretch the fly, 
 but made our beds where we pleased, and turned in 
 under the shelter of some magnificent trees, con- 
 fident of a good rest after our day's work. About 
 one o'clock in the morning, however, it bcQan to 
 rain in torrents, and did not stop until midday, [t 
 had been so dark that we could not find our tent- 
 roll, and therefore we had returned to our blankets 
 and slowly became soaked. I think I have seldom 
 passed a more miserable night. I had a waterproof 
 sheet under my bedding, and on getting up found 
 that it had most inconveniently held the water, 
 
 I I 
 
 1; 
 
 t 
 
 i 
 
 •^ ■?» J 
 
T 
 
 lift 
 
 ir '1 
 
 1 1 
 
 124 
 
 Till' r,AM) ()!• Till' MrsKi:r, 
 
 and that I was surrounded by a pool six inches 
 deep. 
 
 We spent the mornint^ drying our blankets 
 before a huge fire. John, who was helping us in 
 this, and who had been silent for some moments, 
 suddenly turned towards us and said, ' Gentlemen, 
 we shall meet three Beaver Indians to-morrow on 
 the river.' Of course we all imagined that he was 
 joking, but Round told us that whenever John pro- 
 phesied the coming of strangers he was always 
 right. He said he had known him for close upon 
 fourteen )ears, and that he had never made a mis- 
 take about this. The most of us were incredu- 
 lous, thinking that the whole thing was absurd ; 
 but John stuck to it that he was right, and that 
 we should see on the morrow. 
 
 On the following day we scattered through the 
 country in search of meat. Daukhan and I had 
 started towards the river, intending to ford the 
 stream on horseback, and then leave our animals and 
 hunt to the right of the camp, when we were joined 
 by Round and John, who also wished to cross the 
 river and hunt to the left. The river was very 
 rapid, and the stones ■ .ppery, so that the horses 
 stumbled and lurched in the swift water in a manner 
 not very pleasant to the rider. When we reached 
 the southern shore we tethered our horses and were 
 on the point of starting into the bush when we saw 
 something moving on the river some distance 
 
 • I 
 
■■^ 
 
 JOHN S I'ROPHIXV 
 
 125 
 
 further down. We waited, and presently a canoe 
 came round the point. Now it must be remembered 
 that since we left Dunvegan, nearly two months 
 before, we had not seen a single human being-, and 
 this made John's prophecy the more extraordinary, 
 for there had been nothing to show that we should 
 meet these Indians. John 
 himself showed no sur- 
 prise at seeing them, but 
 simply remarked that he 
 knew they were coming 
 and was glad they had 
 arrived. He afterwards 
 told me that he had not 
 always possessed this gift 
 of second-sight, but that 
 he had had it since the 
 death of his infant 
 daughter some fifteen 
 years before. He said 
 that he was upon an 
 island on the Peace River, 
 twenty miles from Dun- 
 vegan, when one afternoon something told him 
 that his child was dead, and that a man was 
 coming to him in a canoe to break the news. 
 After a few hours the man came, and ever since 
 then he had always known when he was going to 
 meet any one, and from which direction they would 
 
 AM. All M MOnil.U 
 
 !' 
 
 i^ 
 
 
 ■I u 
 
 I ' -.'J 
 
i 
 
 T 
 
 'J1 
 
 m 
 
 ' ■■, I 
 
 "•< I 
 
 1 1 
 
 126 
 
 THi'. l.AM) ()!• nil. Ml SKi:(i 
 
 I . 
 
 come. lie added that sometimes people came 
 when he iiad had no presentiment ; but when he 
 had had the presentiment they were sure to come. 
 Whilst he was talkini,^ the canoe had approached, 
 so wc went down to the water's edge and signalled 
 to the Indians to come ashore. They proved to 
 be Beaver Indians, three in numljcr, as John had 
 foreseen, — a young man, his wife and mother, — and 
 more wretched specimens of humanity I have never 
 seen. We made a tire for them, ujx)!! which they 
 produced dried meat and grease, and we all ate. 
 Then we began to talk, John was able to make 
 himself understood, and could interpret, so that we 
 got along fairly well, althou- ' it is always difficult 
 to explain one's meaning to a savage, and to under- 
 stand his ideas in ireneral, for their minds do not 
 work the same way as a white man's, and you can 
 never tell what they really think. 
 
 Fifty years ago the Indians of the North- West 
 were in the stone-hatchet period. Many of the tribes 
 have made extraordinary mental strides in so short 
 a time, but there has been little progress among 
 the Heavers, so that one comes across the anomaly 
 of a man with a jjrimitive, stone-imi^lement-period 
 mind, carrying in his hand that product of centuries 
 of thought — ^the Winchester rille. His ideas and 
 wants are expressed in a series of chucks and grunts, 
 and he is careful to move his lips as little as jDOSsible 
 in speaking. It would be impossible to shout in 
 
 V 
 
 1 *.l^ 
 
JOHN S l'R()I'lli:C\' 
 
 27 
 
 Ills Iaii!^-iiaj4(-. 
 
 
 Ic us(,-s pninitivi: L;e.slLircs, iJoiiuin<,^ 
 to mountains or trees when lie speaks of tluMii, aiitl 
 sigiiilyin^T the cle|)arture of an animal or person hy 
 throwing- out !;is hand before him. 
 
 The three specimens of the iJe.iver trihe who 
 had joined us were u-ly heyond description. They 
 were small, emaciated, and scrofulous. ' Allah.' the 
 youno- man of tlu' party, was especially revoltinn-, 
 and he had a habit of spittino- every few minutes 
 with a horrible recklessness 
 of aim. All Heaver Indians 
 look weakly, and as a fact 
 lew of them are strong. lUit 
 one never knows what a 
 man will do when [nit to it. 
 and thinking- that a little 
 lielp would be better than 
 none at all, we asked him to 
 join our expedition as axe- 
 man. He said that he had 
 
 been to Fort MT.eod through the Pine Pass, and s(^ 
 we thoug-ht that even if he was not strong enough to 
 chop he would be useful as a guide. We told him 
 that we would give him a horse as |)a)-ment if he 
 would join us. He answered that he would visit 
 our camp on the following day, and make up his 
 mind whether he would come, and that if he de- 
 cided to do so his wife and mother could pack their 
 goods to IMoberley's Lake on their Ixacks. 
 
 ' iil 
 
 I 
 
 . i 
 
 I 
 
128 
 
 'nil' I. AM) oi" rill': miski.o 
 
 
 \ 3 
 
 h ■' 
 
 AccordiiiLj^ly he came next clay to the camp with 
 his family, and told iis that he would join us for the 
 pay a<j[rced upon. lUit he said that he would not 
 be able to come at once, as he must wait until his 
 wife and mother had matle him more; moccasins. 
 On hcjarini:^ this we asked thtMii to make some 
 moccasins for our party, for which we paid them in 
 jj^oods. The old lady, Allah's mother, who was of 
 most forbidding aspect, and smoked an exceedingly 
 rank pijje, made us a present of bear-meat and 
 dried moose-meat ; and this civility we returned, as 
 they expected, by a large present of tea and tobacco. 
 They had killed a coui)le of small black bears on 
 the river-bank, and this showed us the more clearly 
 that the only way to move through the country was 
 in canoes. A pack-train is always noisy, and when 
 there is much chopping to be done is calculated to 
 frighten away the game. Also the neighing and 
 tramping of the horses at night would disturb the 
 country for a long distance around the camp. A 
 canoe, on the other hand, moves very silently, so 
 that a man may hunt as he travels, and will find the 
 game unprepared for his coming. Allah himself 
 was extraordinarily dirty and unattractive, and his 
 manner of eating and general behaviour was not 
 pleasant, so that we did not relish the idea of 
 having him for a constant companion. On an 
 expedition of this kind one is compelled to live 
 very close to the other members of the party, often 
 
JOHN S l'R()I'IIi:CV 
 
 129 
 
 slecpiiii^r under the same shelter with them, and 
 always eatinj,^ from the same loaves of breail or dish 
 of meat ; and so wlieii you have a man with you 
 who spits anioni^st the cookinL,^-pots and plates, and 
 who is not even careful to avoid the meat, there is 
 no escape, and you can only warn him not to do so 
 again, and i;rin and bear it as best you can. 
 
 to 
 md 
 the 
 A 
 so 
 the 
 lelf 
 his 
 not 
 of 
 an 
 live 
 ;en 
 
 LODUIS 
 
 However. Allah had brought us fresh meat and 
 moccasins, which were of great service to us. It 
 was very pleasant to return to a more rational diet 
 after our long course of fried bread ; for we had 
 soon found that a man cannot do much hard work 
 without substantial food. The dried moos(> was 
 especially excellent, being crisp and sweet to the 
 taste. The Indians make a mixture of dried meat 
 and grease, which is called pciniuican, and no more 
 sustaining food can be procured. It can be com- 
 pressed into a small space, and so is easily carried. 
 
130 
 
 'rni>: land oi- viu-. .MUSKi-xi 
 
 
 my ; 
 
 it 
 
 
 I 
 
 ly 
 
 riit 
 
 1 >' 
 
 .(I 
 
 fi 
 
 
 li 
 
 A wonderfully smal. quantity is sufficient for a meal, 
 and 1 should advise any one proposing- to travel 
 through the North-West to procure this by send- 
 ing a messacre to one of the Northern forts some 
 time before he arrives in the country, as it may be 
 difficult to get enough meat at short notice. 
 
 When all was ready we started again, and con- 
 tinued to move up the valley of the Pine Riv(;r 
 amongst the foot-hills, huntin<j as we went on both 
 sides of the stream. When we wished to cross, 
 we either made rafts of logs or waded in the 
 shaUower places, and thus we managed to explore 
 the whole v;illev. Now and again we heard the 
 young bears playing amongst the fallen timber, or 
 the older ones coughing as they ate the wild berries; 
 but not once could we get a siijht of them. The 
 bush was thick and rotten, and the ground covered 
 with dead branches and twigs, so that it was 
 almost impossible to move without making a noise. 
 Daukhan, who was one of the best native hunters, 
 could walk quietly enough to get near game 
 when by hinj-elf. But 1 do not believe that any 
 white man could stalk in such a country, and the 
 bush is so diick ihat one must ^ct within a few 
 yards of an animal before one can see it at all. 
 Only a few of the Indians are sufficiently expert to 
 creep up to a bear, and the majority are obliged to 
 kill the greater part of their game in trapr> 
 
 All this we began to realise, and after repeated 
 
JOHN > PRorHECY 
 
 1^1 
 
 The 
 
 any 
 the 
 
 few 
 all. 
 
 -t to 
 d to 
 
 ;itcd 
 
 failure we gave up luintiii;^- in the bcf£i JiS l T-=.^"'---^« 
 wr.3te of time, and nio\ed on towjuri:- "ltt - r^r 
 open mountains, where we hoj^ed " : iriirr.-jr 
 chance of success. Hy this time we z,i^ ' -i 
 all tlu; nieat (in the course of three tii^-^'t i.- _ .-^ _ 
 retLUMied to our diet of hread And tliL irrti - -' '■: 
 using u\) our 
 flour far more 
 quickly than we 
 should. One 
 day Daukhan 
 managc;d to kill 
 two s m a 1 1 
 beavers, but 
 these did not 
 last us long, so 
 he turned his 
 attention to the 
 river again, in 
 the hope of 
 discovering an- 
 other dam. In 
 many places we 
 
 foun^l open |)aths, al)t)ui ih.ree tteH \Ki«i-r. iir zht 
 woods leading down to tlie water. wLiDdi iit~ l»ren 
 made In' l\u: beavers as they dnig:g;<tti rrjt 'tog^ 
 towards the' river. Daukhan said Le butt ■wrkZ'.h^d 
 them many times, antl that they woiiTd ^:t 
 carrv Ioljs more than sixteen feet lon^ ''•^r '- 
 
 ( wirKP 
 
 PHJ-: V. . r- 
 
132 
 
 THI' LAMJ OF IHi: Mi;.SKi:(i 
 
 'I 
 
 1 :f 
 
 I 
 
 along these roads. It seems that when they have 
 used all the suitable trees ne^ir the water, thev cut 
 a road throuirh the underbrush and seek timber on 
 the hillsides. Then they cut down a tree with 
 their teeth, and having gnawed it into lengths, haul 
 it down the path to the water-side, carrying it in 
 their mouths, and turning their heads slightly 
 over their shoulders so that the log may drag 
 behind them. Daukhan said that he had seen 
 them leave a tree half cut when the)' saw that it 
 would not fall clear, but would remain resting upon 
 another. 
 
 The beavers build their dam when the river is 
 low in the autumn, so that they may have a deep pool 
 during the winter months. The shallow water will 
 be frozen solid, but there will always remain a little 
 open water under the ice in the pool in which they 
 can swim. Of course at night, or in time of 
 danger, they retire to the ' lodtje ' b(Mieath the bank. 
 When the river rises in the spring, the dam is 
 washed away ; and then the male and young travc.l 
 about the stream as they choose, but the female 
 remains in the vicinity of the lodge. 
 
 The Indians generally capture the beaver in steel 
 traps set under the water in the shallows. The 
 animal, swimming towards the shore, feels for the 
 bottom with his feet, and so treads uj)on the trap. 
 But a beaver has a very keen sense of smell, and to 
 counteract the scent of the hantl and the steel of the 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^» 1 
 
loiix s l'R()l'^l■:c^■ 
 
 133 
 
 drat,^ 
 
 steel 
 
 The 
 
 )r the 
 
 trap. 
 
 nd to 
 
 )f the 
 
 trap the natives smear the metal with the oil which 
 is extracted from the animal itself, so that it believes 
 that all is safe, and thinks that another beaver has 
 just landed in this place;. 
 
 It is exceedinyh' difficiili to i-et a shot at these 
 animals, as they are extraordinarily wary. I laving 
 found the 'lodge,' the hunter chooses a conxenient 
 spot on the bank, and sits with his riile on his knee 
 waiting for the beaver to appear. Two, and some- 
 times three, hours may pass before the beavers 
 move ; then they come out and .swim near the bank, 
 
 AIM.U A IIAKII II \N 
 
 keeping a sharp look-out. At the least suspicion of 
 a movement on the p;irt of the man they would 
 rush back to their holes, and remain there for the 
 rest of the da\". Suddenl)' the hunter sei/es his 
 rifl«; and shoots as quickly as possible, from either 
 shoulder, as the case may recjuire. Daukhan was 
 

 I 
 
 vr 
 
 « 
 
 ^ 
 
 . i ! ' 
 
 *■ f . 
 
 134 
 
 rill<: LAND Ol' THM MUSKIiCi 
 
 an expert at this kind of shooting, which requires 
 very great patience and a rapid aim. 
 
 In this way ht: killed several animals for the pot. 
 I)iit ;is a rule we had to content ours(;lves with 
 the fried bread. We found a few trout in the river, 
 but they were very hard to catch, and paid little 
 attention to our baits. Once or twice we managed 
 to shoot one, but they were generally small. The 
 country was becoming worse and worse, and was 
 full of muskegs and choked with fallen timber, so 
 that we had to cho[) a path for the pack-train. As 
 an axe-man Allah proved quite useless, as we had 
 feared, and so our progress was but slow. 
 
 At last we left the foot-hills and entered the main 
 range of the Rockies, camping by the river under a 
 large mountain, which, with the customary humility 
 of a traveller, I named Mount Somerset. The 
 weather had, as usual, been abominable, and we 
 had hardly been dry for days, but now the sky had 
 cleared a little, and we made up our minds to leave 
 the horses and camp in the charge of Round, 
 Ramsey, and the 1 )octor, and start out amongst the 
 mountains for a week's hunt with Daukhan. The 
 hill was so steep that we should be unable to take 
 a pack-horse with us, so we settled to pack our 
 provisions on our backs, taking John and Allah, 
 who would leave us upon the hio-hcr ground, and 
 would return with a fresh stock of provisions in 
 a few da)s. After this John was to remain with 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 H\ 
 
John's prophfxy 
 
 ^35 
 
 requires 
 
 the pot. 
 •cs with 
 he river, 
 lid little 
 nanaged 
 11. The 
 ind was 
 iber, .so 
 in. As 
 we had 
 
 he main 
 under a 
 iLimility 
 . The 
 and we 
 sky had 
 to leave 
 Round, 
 igst the 
 !. The 
 to take 
 ick our 
 Allah, 
 id, and 
 ions in 
 in with 
 
 us as interpreter, but Allah might return to the 
 main camp in the valley if he wished to do so. This 
 arrangement suited everybod>-, so we made our 
 preparations as quickly as we could. 
 
 A lll-.M) OF TllE I'.NK 
 
 ii 
 
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 Ell 
 
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 CHAPTER VII 
 
 ON THK SNOW-LIN i; 
 
 Seplcuiber is/. — Early in the morning we made 
 up our packs, and, turning our backs to the river, 
 started towards the mountain. We each carried a 
 bhmket and a few necessaries, besides four loaves 
 of bread and our rilles. The packs weighed about 
 
 thirty pounds each, 
 and with a ten- 
 poimd rille made 
 a sufficiently heavy 
 load for mountain- 
 eerintj:. After strusf- 
 gling through about 
 a quarter of a mile 
 of driftwood and 
 underbrush, we came to the foot of the torrent- 
 bed, which seemed the easiest route up the steep 
 slope. The day was very hot, and the heat beat 
 back from the rocks, making the narrcjw gorge 
 into a sort of nafu^al Turkish bath. The small 
 stream rendered the rocks as slipp(!ry as glass, so 
 that we were obliged to rest every two or three 
 
 IM 
 
 •nil-; .siAKi' 
 
 » 
 
 
i 
 
 II 
 
 ox Tin- SNOW-LINl- 
 
 137 
 
 
 hundred feet to recover our breath. About noon 
 Daukhan discovered some ^^v\zy.\y tracks leading 
 up the mountain to the ritrht. and we immedl^ 
 itely determined to follow them. The side of the 
 hill was littered with fallen trees, and was very 
 steep, so that it was with great difficulty that we 
 made our way. A heavy pack is alwaxs an 
 awkward thing, ;uid very greatly increases the 
 difficulty of climbing a steep and slippery hill. 
 It was quite impossible to follow the signs over the 
 hard ground, so we simply plodded on' at our best 
 pace in the hoi)e that we might catch a sight of 
 the bear before he disappeared over the spur of the 
 mountain, l-'rom the tracks we had seen we judged 
 that the animal was of large size. 
 
 _ After a time we came to a patch of berries of a 
 kmd which we had not seen before. They grew 
 on a small bush like the blueberry, and indeed 
 somewhat resembled them in appearance, but were 
 three times the size, and black in colour. As we 
 found a great abundance we rested and made quite 
 a feast. Presently we came to the ridge, and. 
 sitting down, searched with a glass the amphi- 
 theatre which we had just left, but saw nothing of 
 the bear. We therefore moved down the easrern 
 slope, and cooked a small lunch near a pool of 
 water. Allah, the Beaver, who was a man with a 
 very gross appetite, was ciuite unable to restrain 
 himself at the sight of food, and ate an alarming 
 
 I 
 
 I } 
 
N 
 
 n 
 
 m if 
 
 138 
 
 nil' LAM) oi' riii- MrsKi:(; 
 
 ' I 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 amount of our scanty store. After lunch we re 
 turned to the top of the ridge, and, as we had 
 heard some marmots whisiHng-, sent Allah and 
 John back to the eastern slope to try and get some 
 for dinner, Daukhan, Pollen, and 1 remaining in the 
 amphitheatre to watch for the bear. At some time 
 long past a forest fire had swept over the mountain, 
 leaving the slo[)es covered with dead, whitened 
 logs. The ground was rocky and without cover, 
 
 and the whole 
 country had a 
 melancholy aspect. 
 Towards evening 
 a strong west wind 
 came up, making 
 the air intensely 
 cold, so that it was 
 with a feeling of 
 relief that we left 
 our post and set out to find a camping-place. 
 Water was scarce, but at last we found a small 
 pool lying between two ledges of rock, and there 
 we decided to camj). 
 
 The place did not lov>k promising, but it was 
 the best we could find. We made a fire, and 
 awaited the arrival cf our pot-hunters. y\bout 
 dark they came up with four marmots. A marmot 
 is very like a grey beaver, with a bushy tail. His 
 back is brown, turning to grey (wer the rump. 
 
 AN AMPlUllll.ATUK 
 
 *J i' 
 
ON' Till' SNOW-LIN I-: 
 
 139 
 
 He has two lon<r brown teeth in the front of the 
 upper jaw. which give a strangely comical look 
 to his face. The whistle of these beasts is at 
 first very startling, and one is sometimes inclined 
 to answer, under the impression that some person 
 is anxious to attract one's attention. The sin-le 
 clear note is very loud, and can be heard a long 
 distance off. A marmot is light for its size, only 
 scaling about twelve pounds. We immediately set 
 to work to cook the results of the hunt for our 
 supper. A roasted marmot is not bad food, but as 
 he has about an inch of fat all over him he is 
 inclined to be disagreeably greasy when eaten 
 without a plate. Allah's table manners were too 
 disgusting to mention. 
 
 After supper John made a confession. It seems 
 that shortly after leaving us Allah had turned up 
 the ridge, whilst John had chosen the rough rocks 
 at the foot. Allah had seated himself upon a rock 
 waiting for the reappearance of a marmot, Avhen 
 suddenly a grizzly had turned the corner and come 
 face to face with him. John had immediately 
 shouted to Allah to run back and fetch us, but the 
 Beaver Indian had preferred to remain where he 
 was, and. seated upon the rock, had continued to 
 fire his rifle into the air. even after the bear had 
 long got out of earshot. This was the tale. Of 
 course John had the advantage over Aliali in that 
 he spoke English; but still I daresay that his 
 
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 140 
 
 IIII'. LAND OI' rni'. MCSKI'-.C 
 
 iiccount was tolerably correct. As may in; ima- 
 gined, \V( were not very much pleased, more 
 especially when Daukhan tt)ld us that the bear 
 had probably travelletl a long way. Allah's i)osi- 
 tion had without doubt been a trying one, but it 
 seemed to us that once the bear had turned tail, the 
 necessity for firing had ceased, and that a golden 
 ojjportunit)' had been lost to us, for we were, as 
 
 the\' well knew, onlv half a 
 mile away, and had they told us 
 at once, we could have got 
 to the other slope in a few 
 moments, and very likely would 
 have been able to cut off the 
 bear's retreat. 
 
 The wind had risen with the 
 comine of the niLrht, and now 
 blew a perfect hurricane. We 
 wrapped ourselves in our scanty 
 blankets, and tried to fmd solace 
 for our disappointment in sleep. But all to no 
 purpose. Gusts of wind swept over the ledges of 
 rock, and literally tore the blankets from under 
 us. We tried to remedy this by strapping our 
 beds to us with our portage-straps, but even 
 when thus secured stray ends would be torn 
 away, and would flap noisily about our feet. To 
 add to our discomfort, we had nothing in the 
 shape of a pillow except the two extra pair of 
 
 ON I III: MIKIII si'l K 
 
' 
 
 mmmmmmmmmmBmmmam 
 
 ON THH SNOW-LINI-: 
 
 141 
 
 moccasins wliicli wc (,'acli carried. The colt! was 
 intense at so high an altitude, and the remains of 
 the fire were soon scattered by the wind. Alto- 
 gether our camp was a miserable failure, and I can 
 say that, for my part, I have seldom passed a night 
 in greater discomfort. 
 
 September 2nd. — At the first signs of light we 
 were up and off. marching along the eastern slope 
 of the mountain. We wen: all in very low spirits 
 after our chilly night. The mountain was bare and 
 rocky, and slopetl gently to the east. Far below^ 
 us we could see the timber-line showing dark 
 against the rock ledges and brown scrub. We 
 kept just below the snow-line of the peaks, and 
 were often troubled with soft marshv ravines. 
 John complained much of earache, so we decided 
 that, as we had killed three marmots during the 
 morning, he and Allah should take them down to 
 the camp on the Pine. There had been no fresh 
 meat in the camp for some days, and we knew that 
 the marmots would be a welcome change after the 
 long course of fried bread. John thought that if he 
 could get a night in a warm cami) his ear would 
 allow him to return to us on the following day ; 
 and at all events Allah would be able to come back 
 to us at the same time with some more bread, as 
 had been originally arranged. Allah said he would 
 be perfectly willing to return up the mountain, and 
 that a!iog(ither the arrangement w^ould suit him 
 
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 THF. LAND OF THE MUSKKG 
 
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 very well. Accordinj^ly they left us in the early 
 afternoon, as soon as we had agreed upon a rendez- 
 vous for the next day. 
 
 We were now alone with Daukhan without an 
 interpreter. We had both picked up enough Cree 
 for hunting purposes, but our vocabulary was 
 somewhat limited, and our conversations were 
 sometimes very funny. Daukhan had a great sense 
 of humour, so that our camp would have presented 
 to any one who could have seen it the extraordinary 
 sight of three people gesticulating wildly — using 
 two languages, and now and again interrupting one 
 another with roars of laughter. After lunch we 
 climbed the mountain, and emerging througli a 
 pass, stationed ourselves on three spurs of the 
 western ridge to scan the country. It was arranged 
 that if any of us saw a bear he should signal to the 
 others, v;ho would immediately join forces, and we 
 would then commence the attack in a body. As 
 no game was sighted, we returned through the 
 pass, and, after shooting a marmot, headed to 
 camp. As I have already said, we were a long 
 way above the timber line, but we found a sort of 
 scrub-pine, about two f'^et high, with the roots of 
 which we made a fair fire. 
 
 September ^rd. — The night had been warmer 
 than the first, but a sharp frost drove us round 
 the fire in the early hours of the morning. Im- 
 mediately after breakfast we returned to our watch- 
 
 1; 
 
ON THE SNOW-LI NI<: 
 
 H3 
 
 inu posts of the previous afternoon. The day was 
 absolutely still and clear, and the view incomparable. 
 North and south, as far as the eye could reach, lay 
 the snow-capped peaks of the Rocky Mountains, 
 softenino; into a dim haze of white, hundreds of 
 miles each way. The Rockies here are not of very 
 great height, but have a wonderful ruggedness of 
 outline, so that in the clear air they stood out like 
 fresh-cut cameos against the sky. On the hillside 
 below us some ancient fire had swept over the 
 forest. The rain of years had washed the blackened 
 bark from the dead trees, leaving them gaunt, grey, 
 and barren like a spectral forest in Dore's illustra- 
 tions of The IWmdcring Jew. On the far side of 
 the valley the slopes were clothed with a dark green 
 pine forest, above which rose a rugged mountain 
 with the glimmer of a small lake showing above the 
 timber-line. We had not been at our posts more 
 than an hour when a wolverine— an animal half- 
 bear, half-fox— came stealing up the mountain and 
 passed within a few yards of us. It had a most 
 beautiful skin, but we were afraid to fire, as the 
 morning air was so still that we feared lest we 
 should arouse the whole countrv. 
 
 During the afternoon we had explored the 
 northern part of the mountain, findin<r rnanv small 
 lakes and travelling over a most picturesque country. 
 On the steep slopes the snow was exceedingly hard, 
 and the constant possibility of a swift glissade and 
 
144 
 
 THl- LAND OI- THF. Ml'SKIX. 
 
 If 
 
 an ujrly fall on to jagged rocks lent a spice of 
 novelty to the expedition after the many weary 
 weeks of marching in the swampy bush-country. 
 
 Late that evening Daukhan declared that through 
 the glasses he could discern a bear on the opposite 
 mountain, but it would have taken us a full day of 
 steady marching to reach the spot he indicated, 
 and we were bound to remain in the same camp 
 for that night, as we were expecting the men from 
 the valley to arrive before nightfall, as had been 
 arranged. 
 
 On our way home we fell in with many 
 ptarmigan, whose white plumage indicated the 
 approach of winter. These we brought back 
 to camp with much joy, thinking to share this 
 welcome change of diet with the weary toilers 
 from the valley. Our little hollow was, however, 
 empty, and we ate our supper in momentary ex- 
 pectation of their arrival. After the meal we talked 
 over the morrow's plans, and decided to move 
 across to the place where Daukhan had seen the 
 bear in the morning. Daukhan seemed in low spirits 
 at our failure to find game, so we solemnly pre- 
 sented him with my field-glasses, accompanying the 
 gift with pompous eulogies taken from the grammar 
 at the end of the missionary prayer-book. Cree is 
 a very hard language to read with any fluency, and 
 we spelt out the long words with much difficulty 
 and hesitation. He, however, seemed to grasp our 
 
 
ox Till' SNOW-LINI.: 
 
 145 
 
 meaning-, and was much delighted with the attention, 
 makino- us flattering speeches in return, of which 
 we understood little or nothing. He had at times 
 a most impressive manner, and an easy erace and 
 fluency of speech which would have become a 
 Grand Seignior better than a Cree Indian ! Mean- 
 while the wind had been rising, and now howled 
 through the pass in a deafening manner, scattering 
 our little fire as fast as we built it. And so the 
 night settled down without a sign of either John or 
 Allah. 
 
 After supper Tollen left the camp and walked 
 back over the mountain to the ridge up which the 
 others would have to come in hopes of meeting 
 them. When he came back he gave me an account 
 of a sight that I wish I had seen. From the ridge 
 there is a wonderful view to the south and east over 
 the range, the mountain slopes one behind the other 
 looking like the roofs of streets of houses in .,ome 
 gigantic old-world city. It seemed that to-nic^ht 
 owmg I suppose to some peculiarity of atmospheric 
 conditions, the gorgeous sunset that was at its 
 zenith in the west was almost exactly reproduced in 
 the east, and so there was this extraordinary com- 
 bination.— the mountain-tops Hushed red with the 
 glow of the departing sim. and from behind them 
 wide rays of a vivid pink radiating from the east 
 over the sky, in exact though fainter counterpart to 
 the scenic splendour of the west. Daukhan after- 
 
r* V 
 
 r^ 
 
 146 
 
 Tlir: LAND Ol" THM ML'SKi:C. 
 
 wards told us that ho hud seen the same phenomenon 
 on two previous occasions. iM'om our camp in the 
 hollow it was invisibk;. 
 
 Scptcuibcr i\tli. — The nii^ht had been tree/.ing 
 cold, so that before it was li,L,dit we had huddled 
 round the fire with two pairs of moccasins on our 
 feet in the attempt to keep warm. The wind was 
 still blowinof a uale, and roarinu' as loudlv as on the 
 
 a 
 
 HIE M()( K MNM;r 
 
 previous evening. As no one came by ten o'clock, 
 we decided to mov(,', which we accordingly did, 
 leaving sharpened sticks stuck in the ground to 
 indicate our direction. Having crossed the pass, 
 we went through the forest of gaunt trees, steering 
 for the place where Uaukhan had seen the bear. 
 What could have happened to John and Allah we 
 
 I. 
 
ON Tin: SNOW-LIM. 
 
 147 
 
 I 
 
 could not imagine; for althou(,^h John's car miolit 
 have kept him in the slielicrcd valley, Allah's 
 willingness to rettn-n had been expressed in so many 
 apparently heari-fclt chucks that it seemed almost 
 impossible that he could have; changed his mind at 
 the last moment and left us in the- lurch. We had 
 by this time eaten all our bread, but it seemed that 
 the store of marmots was unending, and as these 
 convenient animals continued to indicate their 
 presence by whistling, shortness of food appc^u-txl 
 to be out of the question. On the other hand, had 
 Allah not relished the klv.ii of the long climb, ii 
 would have been far better if he had said so, as :)y 
 waiting for him we had lost much \aluable time, 
 which might have been spent in travelling towards 
 the mountain upon which we had proof that there 
 were bear. We had not gone far into the woods on 
 the rising ground beyond the valk.-y when we espied 
 two figures moving towards us on the slope we had 
 just left. We accordingly made a fjre and waited 
 for them to come up. They turned out to be John 
 and Ramsey. It appeared that John liad been 
 willing to make the ascent on the previous day as 
 agreed, but that Allah had positively refused, and 
 so much time had been wasted in vain expostulation 
 that no one had come to us at all. Ramsey had, 
 however, volunteered to accompany John, and they 
 had accordingly started in the morning, and by 
 marching the entire day had managed to overtake 
 
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 11: 
 
 fit 
 
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 148 
 
 1 111, I.AM) ()!• nil' Ml SKI.(. 
 
 us. Tin y were both iitU;rly worn-oul with their 
 exertions. They had hr()u.i;ht broad and other 
 eatal)ies with them ; they also brou.^ht news of a 
 parly of Siccanee or Chinook Indians vvlio had 
 camped near lis. 
 
 As it was now well on in the afternoon, we moved 
 
 forward a little way 
 into the timber and 
 there camped. It 
 was the wildest spot 
 I have ever seen 
 — an ideal virgin 
 forest. The ground 
 was very swampy, 
 and covered with 
 a deep carpet of 
 moss. The trees 
 bent one against the 
 other in melancholy 
 decay, covered with 
 long grey lichen and 
 huge fungus. Over- 
 head the matted 
 branches seemed to 
 rot upon the trunks, grey with mould. Huge dead 
 logs strewed the ground, crumbling at the touch of 
 a foot. The place was most melancholy and weird, 
 but a warm fire and a light meal of ptarmigan and 
 bread cheered us and we went to bed in hi<rh 
 
 I III. \ im;iN I DUKM' 
 
ON I HI' S\()\V-L1M-: 
 
 49 
 
 
 spirits, while a couple of martens jumped about 
 in the bouj^hs overhead, evidently consumed with 
 curiosity about their unusual visitors. 
 
 September ^lli, — 'I'he ni_L;ht had been still, but 
 cold, so that lons^' before daybreak we turned out of 
 our blankets and sat round the fire. 'I'herc; was no 
 meat in the camp, but we breakfasted on bread, and 
 then set out for the hi_t,dier f^round. Ik-fore leavinj^' 
 the timber we cut souk; Ioulj sticks upon which to 
 han(( the kettk;, and then made our way over the 
 rocky <j^round towards the lake under the summit. 
 After a heavy climb throuL,di the pine scrub we 
 emer<rcd upon a little green plateau where we 
 decided to camp. The lake lay just above us, 
 overhung- by a steep cliff. The formation of the 
 mountain was similar to that which we had just left, 
 a long backbone running north and south, with 
 steep, narrow spurs on the llanks. Our camp lay 
 between two of these spurs on the eastern slope. 
 
 Daukhan said he thought this was the place where 
 he had seen uhe bear ; so we looked anxiously for 
 tracks. On the other side of the south(;rn spur 
 there was a small swamp, and there we found the 
 tracks we sought. Vwv griz/.lies had been pla\ing, 
 and had stamped the ground hard with their huge 
 feet. There were two old ones, one of which (the 
 female) was a monster, and all the other tracks 
 were of large size. As the country was very open, 
 we ascended the cliff to watch. Daukhan said that 
 
.i 
 
 < 
 
 : „ j 
 
 ' 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 150 
 
 THI' LAND ()!■ TUl". MISKI^C. 
 
 the bears had been upon ihv. ground on the previous 
 eveninsj^, so that had we not been delayed wesliould 
 without doubt have fallen in with them. Thus 
 again had Allah spoilt our hunt. The strength of 
 the wind on the summit of the mountain was im- 
 mense. It was with great difficultv that we were 
 able to walk against it. After spending some time 
 in fruitlessly surveying the country with the glass, 
 we returned to camp and lunched off a marmot, shot 
 at the foot of the cliff near by. 
 
 As we had seen no more bear signs in the 
 southerly ridges, we determined to try our luck 
 towards the north. In many places the bears liad 
 dug great holes in the mountain-side in search of 
 roots and marmot burrows, proving that they had 
 been in the neighbourhood for some time. This 
 led us to hope that they had not moved far, and 
 every moment we expected to sight them. 
 
 On the whole, the party kept together, moving 
 cautiously as we topped the ridges, and exploring 
 t;ach piece of ground, as it was opened to our view, 
 with care. There was a motive in keeping close, as 
 at any moment we might have lighted on the whole 
 band, and it would have needed two or three rifles 
 to have accounted for them all. We were in hopes, 
 there being a female in the part}', that the bears 
 would charge if we met them, autl our keeping 
 together was primarily for protection ; for a grizzly 
 is capable of travelling very fast, and if all five 
 
 ;■ 1 
 
 I 
 
0\ Till- SXOW-I.INK 
 
 151 
 
 were to take it into tlit'ir heads to charL;i' at once, 
 their attack might be siilTiciently formidable. 
 
 On the shores of the little lake we came across 
 the trail again. The bears seemed to be travelling, 
 but in a leisurely manner. This raised our hopes 
 c< nsiderably, and we marched on faster than ever, 
 passing several ridges and over a good number of 
 gullies and open patches, where we often saw very 
 recent traces of the game. At last, coming to the 
 top of a ridge taller than the rest, and with a far 
 larger range of view beyond it, we sat down and 
 again examined the country, but were as unsuccess- 
 ful as on the previous occasion. And here a fresh 
 disappointment awaited us. A white curtain of 
 mist — smoke, John called it — shut off the view of 
 the northern mountains. Daukhan declared that 
 undoubtedly a heavy snowstorm was coming up, 
 and suggested that, as the bears seemed to have 
 worked towards a piece of forest to the north, 
 we should hurry back to camp, and, if we could, 
 move off so that wf^ might make a fresh camp on 
 their trail that night. So we beat a hasty retreat. 
 But the storm was on us as soon as we had reached 
 our bivouac. Moving was out of the question ; so 
 for about an hour we worked collecting pine-roots 
 for fuel, and making an extemporary shelter of bare 
 branches. And then the snow began to fall. The 
 wind came in strong gusts, driving the snow and 
 sleet towards us. We had, as I have before said, 
 
m 
 
 I'' 
 
 f 
 
 »i 
 
 152 
 
 Till- LAND Ol- Till- .ML SKI:G 
 
 only one blanket apiece;, a very insufficient coverinj;- 
 in such \V(!ather ; and these were soon wrinnini^' 
 uet. As the storm ajjpeared to be risincj, we rolled 
 ourselves in our coverings, and. cowc^rinjj; round the 
 fire, determined to make the best of what promised 
 to be a far from comfortable ni^ht. 
 
 September 6ih. — Towards morninj^' the sleet fell 
 less violently, but the wind was still stron.L;". We 
 were of course extremely wet, and chilled through, 
 so that it was a great relief .vhen the light came and 
 enabled us to increase our circulation by moving 
 about the camp. iXway from the fire the air was 
 very cold, so that we rushed back to the fire as soon 
 as we had collected a sufficient quantity of wood. 
 We had eaten the iast of the bread on the previous 
 night, and so had to breakfast on ' straight ' marmot. 
 The greasiness of these animals becomes painfully 
 apparent when eaten without vegetable food, and 
 even to the hungriest man there is something dis- 
 gusting about the sight of one's breakfast spatch- 
 cocked on pine sticks and bathed in yellow melted 
 fat. After breakfast, it was some hours before it 
 was clear enough to see to hunt, and then Daukhan 
 proposed that he should return to the spot which 
 we had left so hurriedly on the coming of the storm, 
 and take another survey of the country. Mean- 
 while, we were to dry out the blankets and try to 
 get some marmots for lunch, as by this time we 
 were completely out of food. During the morning 
 
 in 
 
 ,j 
 
 i 
 
 > 
 
ON THr: SNOW-I.INI' 
 
 •53 
 
 f' 
 
 I'ollcn shot a marmot, hut sprained his ankle, fallin,«r 
 from a steep rock, and so lor that aftcM-noon was 
 incapacitated from huntin-. I made another trip 
 with Dauklian in a nortii-westerly direction, hut saw 
 no sio-ns for sonK; time. The sto.m liad dislod.<,n'd 
 some lar^e njcks ujjon the ch'ff al)ove camp, and 
 avalanches fell at intervals during;- the day with ;i 
 f^reat noise. We were in very low spirits in conse- 
 quence of our failure to find the hear : hut it is 
 probable that they had known of th(; approach of 
 the storm, and had taken refuge in the timber ; and. 
 indeed, from the signs we found before evenin.r, 
 we made certain that they had moved in a body 
 to the forest we yesterday suspected was their 
 destmation. .So we determined to move after them 
 next dav. 
 
 Scptcnihcr -jt/i.-^ Another night of snow and sleet 
 had passed, leaving us wet, cold, and exhausted 
 from want of sleep. The storm had driven the 
 marmots into their holes, and we found to our dis- 
 may that our breakfast no longer whistled to us 
 upon the mountain-side. This is one of the dis- 
 advantages of a hand-to-mouth existence. For 
 some time we discussed our jnxsition, uncertain 
 whether to remain and wait for a change in the 
 weather, which might mean some days almost 
 without food ; or to make up our packs and start 
 straight for the Pine River valley. Daukhan said 
 that he thought the winter had come upon the 
 
154 
 
 Tin-: l.AXI) Ol" Till' Ml'SKI-C. 
 
 I 
 
 mountains, and that he was sure the storm would 
 last a week ; and this decided us to take the latter 
 course. We knew that we had a loni;- march before 
 us, so we looked eagerly about us for something 
 edible. We had thrown the skins of the animals 
 we had eaten in a heap outside camp, and a careful 
 inspection revealed the fact that there remained a 
 li^ht coatiuiT of irristle upon the imder surface. It 
 was of a light bluish colour, and is usually scraped 
 off a hide and thrown away prior to curing. We 
 set to work and scraped this off, procuring from 
 each skin a small wrinkled morsel rather larger 
 than a half crown. This we roasted before the fire 
 and solemnly chewed. It was of course impos- 
 sible to swallow, or even to sever with the teeth, 
 but the process closely resembled eating, ^Yith the 
 added advantage that so small a piece might be 
 chewed for any length of time, and still afford us 
 the same satisfaction. Having made some tea we 
 started for the \alle\ . A fine rain was falling, 
 drenching us to the skin, and the morning was cold 
 and cheerless. By the tinie we reached the timber- 
 line the cold had become intolerable, so we halted 
 and made a fire. Unhappily the tree under which 
 we had taken shelter proved to be very inflammable, 
 and was soon well alight. In a moment every 
 branch was in a blaze, and a column of fire shot up 
 more than a hundred feet hisjh. Fortunatelv this 
 condition of things did not last long, as the fire 
 
U^*-"'.^- T^BP^PP 
 
 ^"•P- 
 
 ON THI-: SNOW-LINE 
 
 155 
 
 I 
 
 burnt itself out quickly. We had lost our shelter, 
 and were much annoyed by the hot ashes which 
 constantly fell upon us ; but we thought ourselves 
 extremely lucky in that we had not started a for(!St 
 fire by our carelessness. 
 
 Daukhannow became very talkative, revertino- to 
 his questions about l-n_i(land, and the world in j^^ene- 
 ral. He was particularly anxious to know if the 
 big Squaw Chief (the Queen) owned the whole 
 earth as her personal property, and seemed griev- 
 ously disappointed that her property was so limited, 
 and that there were other Oukimows as great as 
 she. He then questioned us about the appearance 
 of London, and England in general, being anxious 
 to understand exactly what animals were found 
 there, and what was the method of their capture. 
 We described a day's pheasant-shooting to him, 
 which delighted him beyond measure ; and going 
 on to fox-hunting, said that luigland was cut up 
 into corrals, like the one at Dunvegan, and that 
 across these men rode at a gallop, jumping the 
 obstacles. He said he considered this extremely 
 dangerous. This conversation had, of course, been 
 carried on through John, who was an excellent 
 inter[)reter, thoi-gh I sometimes imagined that more 
 was said in the Cree than ever came to our ears. 
 
 When we wrc sufliciently warmed we continued 
 the descent. By the marks on the trees I judged 
 that the snow l;iy to the depth of about thirty feet 
 
r 
 
 \i 
 
 '. I' 
 
 
 I- (,, ! 
 
 lit 
 
 "M 
 
 ! 
 
 ■56 
 
 Till- LAND Ol- Tin-: MUSKIXi 
 
 in the woods during the winter. Lower down the 
 mountain we came to a tract of burnt timber, and 
 there we again made a fire, and lunched off tea and 
 a few berries. The rain still continued to fall, 
 making the dead logs slippery as glass. Pollen's 
 ankle had not recovered from the injury of the 
 previous day, being still extremely weak. In one 
 particularly bad place it gave way, and he had a 
 nasty fall and sprained his leg most seriously. 
 However, after a rest, he was able to go on, lean- 
 ing upon a stick, having taken off his pack. 
 
 The fog lay thick over the country, but from 
 time to time lifted for a few moments. Uj >)n one 
 such occasion we distinctly made out the shape of 
 a bear moving upon the ridge parallel to the one 
 we were on ; but before we had time even to take 
 aim the fog dropped, shutting out everything. The 
 lower slopes of the mountain were thickly covered 
 with small trees and underbrush. This made our 
 progress very slow, as our packs caught constantly 
 in the undergrowth. But slowly as we went, 
 Pollen's leg forced him to move slower still, and 
 at last he insisted that he could perfectly follow 
 alone, and that it would be better for us to push 
 on, so as to get into camp as soon as possible, and 
 that once there we could send back a horse for him. 
 We were very reluctant to leave him In his crippled 
 condition, but he was so confident that he could 
 find and follow our trail, and that we could do no 
 
ox Tin-: SNOW-LINK 
 
 157 
 
 good by staying with hi 111, that at last we pushed 
 on ahead, leaving him to follow our track at a more 
 leisurely pace. On reaching the valley we were 
 to make a fire, and then to go on to camp, sending 
 back Allah with a horse to bring him in. 
 
 After a time we came to the end of a spur, but 
 found to our disappointment that the land fell off 
 abruptly into a sort of mud-slide, sloping to the edge 
 of a high cliff. This forced us to work up the hill 
 again through the sodden bush ; end it was some 
 time before we reached the valley and set to work 
 to build our fire. 
 
 Suddenly we were startled by the noise of rolling 
 stones. Huge boulders w^ere bounding down the 
 mud-slide above us, and leaping over the edge of the 
 cliff, falling with deafening crashes on the rocks 
 hundreds of feet below. Throui^h the mist we 
 could dimly discern Pollen's figure clinging to a 
 few frail branches, and swinging, as it seemed to 
 us, over the abyss. Every minute we expected 
 the branches to give way, and to see him drop to 
 a certain death. It was a stirring moment, and 
 one I shall not easily forget. Soon the noise of 
 the falling rocks diminished ; the branches still re- 
 mained firm, and it was with infinite relief that we 
 saw him crawl cautiously to a place of vantage, and 
 finally haul himself over the edge of the precipice. 
 
 It appears that he had followed our tracks through 
 the undergrowth until we came to the end of the 
 
 
Vh 
 
 V ■ 
 
 158 
 
 IHI' LAM) OI- THli MUSKI'C. 
 
 i 
 
 tl 
 
 '% 
 
 1 
 
 i\]\. 
 
 'i> 
 
 Spur. His ankle was causing him great pain, so 
 that though with care he could go down-hill, it was 
 almost impossible for him to ascend. 
 
 The reason for our detour was obvious, so instead 
 of following us in our ascent, Pollen tried to make 
 a short cut along the face of the mountain above 
 the slide, thus escaping the necessity of a i)ainful 
 climb up-hill. He had not gone far through the 
 bush, however, before he found that a narrower 
 slide ran into the big one from above, and that he 
 was cut off. There was, therefore, nothinir for it 
 now but to work up the hill till he came to firm 
 
 i^round atjain. 
 
 A little way up, however, he saw projecting from 
 the centre of the narrow slide a great piece of stone, 
 so large that he made certaui it was the bed lock of 
 the mountain. To reach this only involved a jump 
 of seven or eight feet, and from the rock to the 
 other side was no further. So, balancing himself on 
 iiis stick, he jun^ped, alighting with both feet on the 
 rock. To his horror the whole thing began slowly 
 to move down. At fh'st his on'y chance lay in 
 keeping his balance, and in a second or two he saw 
 that the rock, moving faster and faster, would soon 
 be clear of the bushes, and crashing down the slide 
 to the precipice. 
 
 So, as a last desperate chance, he leapt, catching 
 at the bushes at the other side, and by the luckiest 
 good fortune got hold of the end twigs 01 a stout 
 
ON rni- sNow-LiM-: 
 
 '59 
 
 alder, and swung hcadloiiL^ on to the slide with this 
 frail support in his hand. 
 
 It was at this moment that we saw him danuliu''- 
 over the edge, whilst the rocks leaped down the 
 slide from the clilV in a roaring torrent, falling a clear 
 three hundred feot into the creek bed below. 
 
 An experience of this kiml may be interesting 
 
 A w i.ij oMi: sicii r 
 
 enough to remember, but 1 do not think that many 
 people who have witnessed it have any keen desire 
 to attempt gymnastic feats again under the same 
 conditi ; for it is by no means a pleasant thing 
 to think that one's life depends upon the strength 
 of a moimt^'in aldc^r. 
 
 We left Pollen, a good deal shaken by his adven- 
 ture, by the fire, and set off up the valley towards 
 
■ ' l" 
 
 
 Us 
 If 
 
 'n r 
 
 f 
 
 A. 
 
 'M' ' 
 
 1 ! 
 
 1 , , 
 
 t 
 
 
 I 60 
 
 nil' LAND OI' TIM' MrSKI'lC, 
 
 camp, Wc had not eaten since the previous clay. 
 The rain was still falling, and our sodden packs 
 were: as heavy as lead. The way seemed in- 
 terminably long- : I could have sworn it was fifty 
 miles, and yet I found afterwards that a tenth of 
 that exaggerated measurement was more like the 
 truth. A hopeless gloom settled down upon us as 
 
 we stumbled alono: 
 under our burdens 
 over the rouirh 
 country. It seemed 
 that we should never 
 reach the camp, but 
 were doomed to 
 march eternally for- 
 ward throu'di the 
 drizzle and over the 
 swamp. The sight 
 of one of our horses 
 feeding came to us 
 with all the shock of 
 a revelation ; and the 
 appearance of smoke between the trees seemed like 
 :> glimpse of heaven. A horse was sent back with 
 Allah, who brought Pollen in, and food was prepared 
 while we sat and gloated over the process, and so 
 as the darkness came on we broke our fast and 
 turned into our blankets under the comfortable 
 shelter, feeling that no luxury could compare with 
 a dry bed and an untroubled repose. 
 
 I IRK l.Ai, 
 
 
CHAP T E R VIII 
 
 I 
 
 SHORT CO.ArMON'S 
 
 A LA/v consciousness of ease and well-being-, of 
 infinite leisure and freedom from trouble, were my 
 first sensations on awakenin.<r. Yesterday's storm 
 continued without any sign of abatement ; so there 
 was nothing of the usual hurry of an early start- 
 nothing of the dread of a long weary march, and 
 the day lay before us full of hope and interest. It 
 is true we had f^iiled in our expedition : our chances 
 of bear were practically gone, and this at another 
 time would have depressed us ; but on the other 
 hand the failure had been an honest one, had come 
 about through no fault of ours, but rather, as it were, 
 through the hand of a pursuing fate, or. as Daukhan 
 said, ' because some one on the mountain was work- 
 ing medicine against us.' 
 
 A few days of fast marching would undoubt- 
 edly bring us to Fort M' Leod. when we should 
 have accomplished our second aspiration, and have 
 walked across the Rockies through an almost un- 
 known pass. A steady cold rain was falling, 
 driving us under the shelter whilst we ate our lare 
 
 L 
 
 m 
 
'■f 
 
 162 
 
 Till-: LAND iH' nil' MISKIX. 
 
 ^:-, I ''■! 
 
 c. !f 
 
 breakfast. There was much to be discussed, and 
 each half of the expedition had its own tales to tell. 
 When Ramsey joined us upon the mountain he 
 had told us of the Chinook Indians who had 
 camped near our outfit, it seemed that they had 
 remained in the same place waiting' for our return. 
 Some small exchange of goods had taken place, so 
 that we found that our breakfast, bear-meat, by the 
 
 wa\, had been bought 
 from them for a shirt. 
 They had kept our 
 party in meat for 
 some days, always 
 getting something in 
 exchange ; they had 
 also been very 
 anxious to sell furs, 
 wishing to obtain 
 tobacco, soap, and 
 tea, but had been told that the big Oukimows 
 were up the moimtain, and that, as these things 
 belonged to them, no bartering could be done 
 until their return. 
 
 Before we had finished our meal they came into 
 camp and saluted us. They were, with one excep- 
 tion, all young men. The Siccanee Indians — that 
 is, those who live on the western slope of the 
 mountains — are as a rule better educated and more 
 civilised than the more easterly natives. This at 
 
 TWO Ol' (IL l{ Msnous 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 ■ 
 
 i 
 
r 
 
 done 
 
 
 
 SHORT COMMONS 163 
 
 least is true of the district in which we then wi:re. 
 Farther north the inhabitants of the western slope 
 
 are said to be much the same as their nei(rhbours. 
 
 but there is no doubt that the Stewart's Lake, or 
 
 Carrier Indians, have reached a far higher level 
 
 than the Beavers, or even the Crces. 
 
 Our visitors spoke English fluently, not with any 
 
 grammatical accuracy, which was hardly to be ex- 
 pected, but in a sort of pigeon dialect very droll to 
 
 listen to. They sat down under 
 
 the shelter with us, and soon 
 
 became very much at home, 
 
 laughing immoderately at the 
 
 slightest provocation ; as one of 
 
 them truly remarked, ' Damned 
 
 Indian laugh all de time.' 
 Among the Crees, as I have 
 already mentioned, it is not 
 considered good form to ask 
 about the results of a hunt. The 
 hunter is supposed either to have killed or to wish 
 to drop the subject. But no false modesty of this 
 kind hindered our friends' utterance. We were 
 asked a string of questions about our luck, and 
 when we confessed to failure, were sweetly smiled 
 upon, and told of their success with a brutality 
 usually found only in the more cultured races. 
 
 They had come from Fort A^Leod across the 
 mountains, packing their blankets on their backs ; 
 
 
 ■» 'i / 
 
 / " -' 
 
 s^ Ml )N 
 
■• a 
 
 ft. 
 
 I 
 
 IE 
 
 f!! 
 
 *'''^' 
 
 If 
 
 I, 
 .is 
 
 •if 
 
 '- ' i 
 
 k 
 
 i 
 
 i/ln 
 
 64 
 
 IHI' LAND or Tlir. MlSKl'C. 
 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 INDIAN I \l (111 All, 
 IIIK TIMK ' 
 
 or ratlicr, to hti strictly accurate, on the backs of 
 their wives. On the way they had killed two 
 black bear, a few beaver, and many marmots, which 
 
 they hatl dried. We asked 
 
 them about our journey to 
 
 M' Leod, but could ^et no 
 
 information of any value. 
 
 They had come by the moun 
 
 tains, and had never been 
 
 through the pass, nor had they 
 
 heard of Indians doinL»' so. 
 
 This did not trouble us much, 
 
 as wt: knew that Mr. Dawson had crossed the 
 
 divide by that route, and were confident that we 
 
 could do the .same. On being questioned about 
 
 time they gave curiously 
 
 varied answers. Charley said 
 
 that we might reach the fort 
 
 in fifteen sleeps ; he said that 
 
 the country was bad until the 
 
 summit lake was reached, but 
 
 that we could easilv iret there 
 
 in four or five days. After 
 
 that he thought the country 
 
 v/as open, and that we should 
 
 find an Indian pitching-trail, 
 
 which would allow us to make what pace we liked 
 
 without difficulty. His brother Symon said ten 
 
 sleeps ; whilst the old man, their father, began by 
 
 .^,r:m. 
 
 ;^3V j^'-'Z'y' 
 
 i 
 
 $ 
 
 i\\\M.\:\ .si;m()K 
 
T 
 
 ■■ 
 
 SIIORI COMMONS 
 
 '65 
 
 ^ 
 
 UN Sd.s i)i,ii(iiM]i< 
 
 ■sayin.tr a month of long mnrchos. hut came down to 
 
 nght sleeps on bein.i,^ (luestionech Wo already saw 
 
 that w(.' should not reach Oues- 
 
 nelle by the time on which wi 
 
 had calculated, so that these 
 
 various reports set us specu- 
 
 latin<,r, and with the natural 
 
 hopefulness bred of a full diet, 
 
 we chose to believe that \\v 
 
 were already well within reach 
 
 of civilisation. The Chinooks 
 seemed p^reatly amused by our 
 camp, and we pleased them 
 much by showincrthem our revolvers, express rhles. 
 and whatever came to hand which was new or 
 strano;e. A larcre pocket-knife, filled with a multi- 
 plicity of tools, especially 
 excited their wonder ; but not 
 their envy. for. as Cha/les 
 very truly said, it wvas 'too 
 much plenty.' We had. how- 
 ever, to keep a sharp look- 
 out on our belongint^-s, as the 
 tribe has a rei)utation for a 
 certain deftness of touch which 
 
 mi<> 
 
 ( II \KI l.\ II Nil 'K 
 
 ht be called stealinL,^ by 
 one not interested in their 
 spiritual welfare. I am bound to say that they made 
 secret of this failing-, for they had not been with 
 
 no 
 
1 66 
 
 riii' LAM) oi' nil' Ml SKiu; 
 
 i'/ ; 
 
 'hi : 
 
 us half an hour before Charley informed us, with an 
 expression of deep regret, that our tobacco-case was 
 too heavy to steal. 
 
 Our stock of Hour was becoming painfully low, 
 so that wc thought it advisable again to cut down 
 the allowance of bread, and to serve out a quarter 
 of a cake^ to each per meal. The allowance was 
 short, but we had to make the best of it, and to live 
 as far as possible on the half-dried marmots which 
 we bought from the Indians. The meat was very 
 high— in fact, almost putrid ; but we had no choice, 
 and necessity at times almost made it palatable. 
 Among other books in the camp there was Thomas 
 V{:iV(\y''^ Far from f/ic Maddino- Croivd. We had 
 little or nothing to do, and I spent hours in reading 
 it. In the book are many references to the food of 
 the English labourer. Men sit upon gates and eat 
 ham and bread, or feast in barns upon cheese and 
 cider. I had to put the book back into the packs 
 and try to forget its existence. The contrast to 
 our rotten marmot was too tantalising, and it was 
 not until I was once more surrounded with the 
 necessaries of life that I finished the interesting 
 tale. 
 
 When a man is working on short commons he 
 becomes hungry, but he has not quite the same long- 
 ing for a full meal that comes to him when idle. The 
 Chinooks waxed eloquent upon the food we should 
 
 ' About three ounces. 
 
 I 
 
le 
 
 SHokr COMMONS 
 
 ct at MLcod. 'Yes,' they would say, 
 
 \6'J 
 
 kinds of muck- 
 bisciiits— yes. ev'yth 
 
 yes, al 
 
 plenty 
 
 ;i-muck at M'Leod; jam. cak 
 you see by-'n-by; plenty 
 
 Ml!' — 
 
 muck-a-muck, you s(!e.' Charl 
 
 have a <rreat love for ( juesnelle and the 
 
 district ; this h 
 
 c explained to us. 
 
 coimtry Quesnelle-much whisk 
 
 ey s(;emed to 
 surroundiniL;- 
 ' Y(.'s, < >ood 
 
 y, .i^ood.' We asked 
 
 m<)- with 
 
 some tradi 
 some very fair beavet 
 
 ow stringent the laws 
 ians. ' Me 
 
 em— 
 
 -good 
 th 
 
 him how he oot it, knowinn- h 
 were against .^ivin^- anythini^- to Ind 
 .L^ittum.' lie would answer, 'Sywash' 
 ,t;ittum all the time— me steal 
 man at Ouesnelle dam fool- 
 country.' We did 
 them, obtainin; 
 
 skins in exchange for shirts, or orders 
 drawn upon the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany. 
 
 All Indians are ^jrcat gamblers. 
 We had heard the boats' crews beat- 
 ing the tom-tom and shouting round 
 their fire at the Athabaska Landing, but had nevcn- 
 until now had a chance to watch their game. 
 The process is simple. They squat in two lines 
 opposite each other, each man facing his adver- 
 sary. The players have two sticks of equal length, 
 one of which has a small notch in the middle. 
 Taking the sticks in the palms of their hands, they 
 wave them about, changing them with wonderful 
 
 ' liiili;ui, from the i rciicli sutivart: 
 
 IJAMHI.INi; 
 
 sir( Ks 
 
 Ci 
 

 m ;^ 
 
 I; 
 
 r. e 
 
 I 
 
 M 
 
 m 
 
 ! , 
 
 ! ■ i 
 
 
 1 68 
 
 THE LAND OF THI<: MISKF-G 
 
 quickness from hand to hand in the attempt to 
 deceive the opposite hne. These watch the pro- 
 ceedings as carefully as possible, waving their oj^en 
 palms. Suddenly they clap their hands and point 
 with one fmger in the direction in which they 
 
 imagine the 
 marked stick 
 to be. Hands 
 are promptly 
 opened, and, 
 should the 
 guess prove to 
 be correct, the 
 loser takes a 
 small peg out 
 of the ground 
 and passes it 
 over to the 
 luckv fjuesser, 
 the exact value 
 of these coun- 
 ters having, of 
 coiu'se, been 
 arranged before the game begins. Then the notched 
 sticks are passed over, and so the game goes on. 
 Throughout the whole performance the men repeat 
 the same wordless chatter, which is almost a chant, 
 whilst time is marked upon a tom-tom or the top of 
 a kettle. Neither party is ever still for a moment, 
 
 IDM-IOMs 
 
 i 
 
 m^- 
 
•G 
 
 : attempt to 
 Itch the pro- 
 l;" their open 
 Is and point 
 which they 
 laoine the 
 ;irkecl stick 
 be. Hands 
 s promptly 
 ^ncd, and, 
 ould the 
 ess prove to 
 correct, the 
 cr takes a 
 all peg- out 
 the ground 
 
 I passes it 
 ^r to the 
 ky guesser, 
 exact value 
 these coun- 
 > having, of 
 rse, been 
 he notched 
 e goes on. 
 men repeat 
 )st a chant, 
 
 ■ the top of 
 
 II moment. 
 
 
 , 
 
 SHORT COMMONS 
 
 169 
 
 but both shout and wave their arms, and keep time 
 to the music by jerking their bodic. c.p , ,ul down. 
 When any number of Indians join in this ganie the 
 din may be heard for miles. It appears iliat they 
 gambled long before the advent of the whites, and 
 certainly to this day men will lose everything, to 
 the very clothes on their backs, in a single Q;amc. 
 
 On the evening of the ihirtl day after ou^- return 
 from the mountains the rain stopped, and we de- 
 termined to move on the following day. The only 
 drawback to moving was Pollen's sprained leo- 
 which threatened at hrst to be a serious affain 
 But three days' rest had done a good deal, and the 
 time had given him considerable skill in bandaging 
 It. When the time came to move, he founc? he 
 was perfectly able to do his share of the packino-. 
 though compelled to ride on the march. Tl^e 
 horses gave us much trouble, being very fresh after 
 their long rest, so that it was late before we were 
 ready to start. We said good-bye to the Chinooks, 
 wishing them a successful hunt, and receixing ,nany 
 expressions of goodwill in return. 
 
 The country was fair])- open, and we had gone 
 (luite a long distance, when, hve hours after leaving 
 camp, we canu; to a dense forest of small pine.^ 
 rhis gave- us much work, as it was quhv impossible 
 to get the horses through without chopping a path 
 About dark we came to a small open space, and 
 there camped. Aftc-r supper we sat round the i]vc 
 
lyo 
 
 THI' LAM) Ol- Till' .MISKIX; 
 
 •;; ' } 
 
 i^ i 
 
 IH 1 
 
 1 
 
 kr t. 
 
 and discussed the food question. We had bought 
 all the marmots we could get from the Chinooks. 
 The fat on the meat was quite putrid, but we 
 thought it best to eat whatever part of the lean 
 we could find in a better condition. Besides the 
 marmots, we had only a very little bacon, a few 
 [)ounds of grease, and a little flour left. We had 
 expected to find a country abounding in game. A 
 
 deer or two would have 
 gone a long way to make 
 our provisions last. At 
 least, we had expected 
 to get a bear. But none 
 
 lldKSKS IN IlilWN riMUKl; 
 
 of these things had 
 happened. Two small 
 black bear, a few beaver, 
 and one or two /ouse, 
 were all we had got 
 during the whole trip. 
 We talked a Ljood deal, but came to no con- 
 elusion. All wv. could do was to hope that we 
 mi^ht have a little luck, and fall in with some 
 animal soon. On th\: following day we marched 
 steadily forward up the valley ; the weather was 
 cold and dull, and the country very bad indeed. 
 The bush was so thick that, working our hardest, 
 we could njver make more than a mile and a half 
 an hour. Rotten logs strewed the ground, covered 
 with thick moss. Here and there we came to 
 
 ) i 
 
' 
 
 "T 
 
 ROt 
 
 n 
 
 i 
 
 11 
 
 {f 
 
T.I ■! 
 
 !3 
 ■ r 
 
 172 
 
 rui' i,A\n oi' vwv. miski-c. 
 
 large patches of ' devil's clubs ' {Fatsia horrida). 
 The [)lant grew to the height of about two feet ; 
 the leaves are very large, and have a mildly innocent 
 appearance. But the stalk under the big leaves is 
 covered with long and intensely sharp thorns, 
 which pierce the llesh and break off, causing a 
 painful sore. 
 
 The order of our march was as follows : — Daukhan 
 walked first, selecting the best road, and clearing 
 
 the more impene- 
 trable thickets with 
 a hatchet or hunting- 
 knife. Next came 
 John, with an a.^e, 
 with which he 
 chopped off the 
 thicker branches, 
 and generally did 
 the heavy work, 
 under the guidance 
 of Daukhan. Then followed Allah, mooning along 
 with his toes turned in, without an axe and without 
 having any share in the work ; in fact simply taking 
 gentle and beneficial exercise at our expense. It 
 must be remembered that we had brought him with 
 us for two reasons — firstly, because we wanted an 
 axe-man ; and secondly, because he said he knew 
 the route to APLeod through the pass. I think he 
 had been there, but, as the event proved, any babe 
 
 rillC AXK-MKN HAD To CMIAR A I'ATIl 
 
 
wimmmmmm 
 
 wm 
 
 wmm 
 
 SHORT COMMONS 
 
 173 
 
 would have been more useful. Neither promises 
 of gifts nor threats of punishment could induce him 
 to work. He would help to bring in the horses in 
 the morninnr, but then considered that he had done 
 sufficient, and would take no part in the packing, 
 but for decency's sake would move an empty flour- 
 sack, or lounge about with a piece of rope in his 
 hand. In fact, he was an extra mouth to (ced, but 
 never an extra hand to help. So we waited and 
 watched for the time when he might be of use to 
 us, or when we could find something which would 
 move him. If a man is not stirred by promises of 
 presents there is nothing to be done. It is almost 
 impossible to find a punishment for small offences 
 in camp. 
 
 The axe-men generally kept about fifty >-ards 
 ahead of the rest of the party, so as to allow them 
 a little time to look for firm ground. As a rule I 
 led the foremost horse, a skewbald named John. 
 It was troublesome work, as the old brute was 
 constantly jumi)ing over fallen trees, and closely 
 missing me in alighting. lie also had a habit of 
 planting his legs firmly in the mud and refusing to 
 budge, which was very thing. Hehind John came 
 four horses, followed by Round ; then four more 
 horses and the Doctor ; finally Pollen, who was 
 obliged to ride on account of tlu; injury to his 
 ankle, brought up the rear with Ramsey and the 
 remaining animals. 
 
 
 M 
 
 
f^ -v.lf 
 
 174 
 
 THI«: LAND Ol- Tin- Ml'SKIvC; 
 
 D ?' 
 
 :. I*- 
 
 it i 
 
 t'. 
 
 The pace, as I have said, was very slow, and 
 very often tlie whole line would be brought to a 
 halt whilst the axe-man cleared a path. In fact, 
 these halts were rather the rule than the exception. 
 At first we had shouted to the men behind to stop 
 driving the horses ; but had found that this method 
 was altogether too noisy, and was calculated to drive 
 game out of the countr)-. We therefore arranged 
 a code of signals by whistling, and thus commands 
 and pieces of information could be passed along the 
 line. P)Ut even after this decision human nature 
 could not be su[)pressed. and a refractory horse 
 would call forth loud shouts and somewhat unholy 
 abuse. The plunging of the animals amongst the 
 rotten logs sometimes had the effect of looseninu' 
 the pack-ropes, and repacking caused occasional 
 delays. But I am bound to say that, although I 
 have travelled many hundreds of miles with a pack- 
 train, I have never seen packs stay on better than 
 ours, and considering the ground we travelled over, 
 the trees, thick brush, and generally wet ropes, our 
 packers deserve a good deal of credit. 
 
 The w^oods were full of many kinds of berries, 
 some nasty, but edible, but many pronounced to be 
 poisonous by Daukhan. Ramsey, who was always a 
 man of an adventurous disposition, and with a keen 
 desire for practical knowledge, made some experi- 
 ments with these, with the result that by the time 
 we came to our second camj)ing-ground he was 
 
 if 
 
 ■i:M 
 
»; * 
 
 x: 
 
 y slow, and 
 Drought to a 
 :h. In fact, 
 a exception, 
 lind to stop 
 this method 
 ited to drive 
 re arranged 
 s commands 
 xl along the 
 man nature 
 ctory horse 
 k^hat unholy 
 UTiongst the 
 )f loosenino- 
 
 occasional 
 althou<jh I 
 lith a pack- 
 better than 
 v^elled over, 
 ; ropes, our 
 
 of berries, 
 meed to be 
 as always a 
 vith a keen 
 me experi- 
 •y the time 
 id he was 
 
 SHORT COMMONS 
 
 ^75 
 
 extremely ill. A sick man was a source of delicdu 
 to the Doctor. He had a great love for the healhig 
 art; m fact, I might say without any ill-nature 
 that there was not nearly enough illness in the 
 party to please him. 
 
 There was no fresh meat in camp, but Daukhan 
 said that, as there were still some hours of day- 
 light left, he would explore the next reach of the 
 river, and try and find a beaver-dam. He was 
 away about two hours, and returned with a fine 
 beaver. The animal was very fat, and in c-ood 
 condition, so we had quite a feast, and went to bed 
 •n high spirits. It is wonderful how a good meal 
 restores the temper of a camp. 
 
 The march the next day was as bad as before. 
 I he valley was narrowing up, so that we were 
 obliged to cross the rix'er waist-deep manv times • 
 the water was very cold, and the wet rocks slippery 
 as glass. In the afternoon Daukhan went on ahead 
 to hunt, but killed nothing ; still we had been care- 
 ful of the beaver, so that we managed to net a 
 supper. '^ 
 
 We were somewhat uncertain of cnir position. 
 and so looked anxiously for some landmark which 
 was indicated on the map. There was a small 
 tributary coming in from the north, and dignified 
 by the name of North Forks of the Pine River 
 We did not know whether we had already passed 
 It or not. This we came to on the next day, the 
 
 -i 
 
 1 4 
 
 (I 
 
176 
 
 Tllli LAND Ol' THE Ml'SKl'd 
 
 !, 
 
 ■1'' ■; 
 
 ■ ■ I 
 ■ '- 1 ■ 
 
 i ■ 
 
 13th of September. .As it was Pollen's birthday, we 
 celebrated the occasion by making a little cake, 
 and cooking a few handfuls of the dried fruit. No 
 one can have any idea of the pleasure this gave us. 
 To begin with, it was some time in preparing. We 
 took oood care to make it last a long lime in 
 eating, and afterwards we gravely discussed it over 
 our pipes. Daukhan had again made an unsuccess- 
 ful hunt, and we decided that the moment our 
 food gave out we would kill one of the horses. 
 This had been talked of for some days ; in fact, the 
 unsusi^ecting animal had already been fixed upon 
 in the person of a horse named Duke, a small 
 beast, and the most obstinate in the pack-train. 
 Some of the party had proposed to kill him at an 
 earlier date, but we thought that it would be time 
 enough when necessity drove us to it. At break- 
 fast the next day we ate the !ast of the bacon, one 
 slice being served out to each man, with a small 
 piece of bread. The country was similar to that 
 through which we had been travelling for the last 
 three or four days ; but we noticed that the river 
 was becoming much smaller. At lunch-time we 
 halted, and made a camp, where we lay all night, 
 havine sent out Daukhan to hunt beaver whilst 
 Allah and John went up in the opposite direction. 
 Towards dark John came back in triumph with a 
 grouse, and Daukhan with a young beaver, so that 
 we had a light supper. 
 
■i* 
 
 SHORT COMMON'S 
 
 177 
 
 I 
 
 All this time Pollen had been obliged to ride, as 
 he was still very lame. Riding throucrh such dense 
 bush was most unpleasant, as one's face gets torn 
 with brambles, and it is almost impossible to duck 
 quickly enough to avoid the branches. But al- 
 though he was unable to march he still continued 
 to pack the horses. 
 
 STUNE WAK-CI.UHS 
 
 ! m 
 
 
 n 
 
 M 
 
r 
 
 ii ' 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 HUNGER AND COLD 
 
 On the morning of the 1 5th we came to a more ojK'n 
 country. Here and there upon the trees 've found 
 the blazings of Mr. Dawson's party. There was, 
 however, no trail. The map of the district marks a 
 beautiful trail crossing this country ; but when one 
 remembers that it is fourteen years since any one 
 had been through it, it seems wonderful that any 
 mark of their passing remains. We marched 
 pretty well up till midday, when we lunched. A 
 "Touse had been killed durinor the morning, and 
 with this and the feet, tail, and entrails of the 
 beaver we managed to get something to eat. 
 During the afternoon two of our horses became 
 frightened whilst walking on a steep bank, and 
 rolled over into the river, wetting some of the 
 bedding and giving us much trouble, as we had 
 to cut the pack-rope and haul them out. As the 
 blankets were very wet we decided to camp early. 
 There was little or nothing to eat, so we made up 
 our minds to kill the doomed horse. The un- 
 
 178 
 
Hr\(;i:F^ and cold 
 
 179 
 
 fortunate Duke was led out and tied up to a tree. 
 Then we gathered round, each trying to shirk the 
 unpleasant duty of shooting an animal which, with 
 ail his fauhs, we had grown to look upon as a 
 iriend. The whole business had the dismal air of 
 an execution, and the fact that the first shot did not 
 kill the poor brute did not make it any pleasanter. 
 Somehow one does not associate a horse with 
 butcher's meat, and it seems a sort of treachery to 
 kill so faithful a servant for food. Once dead, 
 however, it did not take long to skin and cut him 
 up, and it was with a sigh of relief that we saw his 
 identity lost in joints and ribs. 
 
 That night we made broth, as we thought the 
 meat would be tough, and on the following n^orning 
 we set to work to dry the meat. We" erected a 
 stage, and, cutting the llesh into thin slices, hung it 
 over a slow fire. A light snow was falling, so we 
 spent the day under the shelter of the tent fiy. 
 speculating upon the distance to the Summit Lake, 
 and coming to the conclusion that we should, in all 
 probability, arrive there on the morrow. We ate 
 a considerable quantity of horse, finding the liver, 
 heart, and kidneys very good indeed ; in fact, far 
 beyond our expectations. The process of drying 
 is a long one, and we were greatly handicapped by 
 the absence of sunshine, so that it was only half- 
 finished when we moved off on the morning of 
 the 1 6th. 
 
 ) ': 
 
 { 
 
 ■ ■ti 
 

 i8o 
 
 I III' l.AM) ul I III'. MlSKI'd 
 
 J ' I . ; 
 '111 '' 
 
 I. K 
 
 
 f! 
 
 1 'I 
 
 Tin- valley luul l)y this time become: very narrow, 
 and lay between walls of almost perpendicular rock. 
 IIi<Th above; us was the deep forest, similar to that 
 through which we had marched for so long. I he 
 e.xtraordinary denseness of these sub-Arctic forests 
 
 '•riii: vAi.i.i.v HAD liuoMi-: \i;uy nakkow 
 
 makes them appear abnost impenetrable. In the 
 river bottom where we were, willows, alder, and 
 dogwood covered the ground, making it almost 
 impossible for us to force a passage. The Pine 
 River had shrunken to a deep, narrow creek, often 
 blocked with fallen timber, whilst much of the 
 
in\(;i:k and coi.d 
 
 i8i 
 
 country was suhmcrired by ilu- h.ickwatcrs caused 
 by old hcavcr-dams. Now at last Allah was of use- 
 to us. The canon vas bocomino; very narrow, and 
 the sides, as I have said, were rocky and precipitous. 
 It seemed almost as if wc wen- in a en/ dc sac. 
 Allah, however, knew better, and directed us 
 towards the eastern wall of the canon. The cliff 
 rose before us hi<rh and ru-ged. and it seemed 
 unpossible for the horses to a'^cend. Here and 
 there were ledges of rock, and Allah pointed out 
 the aict that these joined, so that a sort of zigza- 
 l^ath led to the summit He said that when he 
 went to iM Leod he climbed the cliff in this place, 
 and that he thought it quite possible to take the 
 horses up. In fact, he asserted that Mr. Dawson's 
 party must have descended into the valley here. 
 We had noticed upon their map that they marked a 
 cliff, and so came to the conclusion that we had 
 found the right place. For the next hour the 
 horses struggled and panted on the face of the 
 rock. We forced them to ascend a little dis- 
 tance, allowed them to halt for breath, and then 
 urged them on again. Man>' of them fell more 
 than once, and two or three packs had to be taken 
 off and carried up by hand to relieve the less 
 skilful horses, but at last, wea y and exhausted, we 
 reached the summit without serious accident. 
 
 We now thought that we had said a last farewell 
 to the Pine River, and were consequently much 
 
 ii 
 
 ) ,: 
 
 \ 
 
 
I 82 
 
 THI-: LAND ()!• Till-: .MlSKl-C. 
 
 I ']i 
 
 disappointed when we came across it again at 
 luncii-time. I should imaLrine that there must be 
 a waterfall in the bend of" the river which we had 
 cut off, as certainly the little plateau we were on 
 was several hundred feet higher than the caiion we 
 had just left. The country around us was more 
 open, rising into sharp rocky ridges on each side, 
 whilst the valley was full of grassy meadows alter- 
 nating with clumps of dog- 
 wood and willow. We had 
 dried h o r s e- m e a t for 
 luncheon, and very disgust- 
 ing it was. I can't recom- 
 mend horse as a diet. The 
 hardness of the food hurt the 
 teeth and inflamed the gums, 
 causing us some pain. We 
 found that we could not eat 
 much at a time, but always 
 marched with small morsels 
 in our pockets, which we 
 chewed whenever we felt hungry. It is remark- 
 able that this meat, when dried, h.is very litlle 
 sustaining power. We would eat as much as we 
 could manage, and yet become faint from want of 
 food in a couple of hours. 
 
 Soon after lunch John declared that he could 
 see water through the trees, so we marched on as 
 quickly as possible, hoping to come to the lake 
 
 GOOU-HYt; TO TIIK I'lNK 
 
 i?* 
 
igain at 
 must be 
 we had 
 were on 
 liion we 
 IS more 
 ch side, 
 's alter- 
 of dOiT- 
 /Ve liad 
 at for 
 lisgust- 
 recom- 
 The 
 mrt the 
 ; gums, 
 1. We 
 lot eat 
 always 
 norsels 
 ch we 
 ::mark- 
 • htLle 
 as we 
 ant of 
 
 could 
 on as 
 i lake 
 
 hlx(;i-:r and cold 183 
 
 before evening. A little later we left the open 
 country and again entered the dense brush, and 
 going forward a little way came to a large beaver- 
 dam, which was the water John had seen. Here at 
 last we said good-bye to the Pine River. For the 
 next half-mile the willows were very dense, and we 
 moved but slowly. Suddenly coming over a little 
 rise we found ourselves on the shore of the lake. 
 The bush was thick, and the work of chopping 
 very heavy, so that the night nad alrcuady fallen 
 when we pitched our tents at the far end. 
 
 It was a wild spot. Sombre cliffs rose abruptly 
 from the water on the northern shore. On our 
 side lay the dense forest, matted and ilecaying, and 
 fraught with all the melancholy of the North. The 
 sky was dull, and cast a sombre hue over the lake. 
 No scene could have been more cheerless. The 
 divide we had crossed was the low ridge that lies 
 between the watershed of the Pine and Parsnip 
 rivers, both of which ultimately flow into the Peace. 
 Perhaps a few words on the geography of this 
 district may not be out of place here. To begin 
 with, the Rocky Mountains, which form the back- 
 bone of the North American continent, run north 
 and south. The Pine River, as may be remem- 
 bered, is a tributary of the Peace River, which lies 
 upon the eastern slope. This wide stream runs 
 into the Great Slave Lake, which empties into the 
 MTvenzie, and so into the Arctic Ocean. We had 
 
 ,M' 
 
 t- 
 
S «.J 
 
 t .. ! 
 
 m-' 
 
 It 
 
 4 " 
 
 1 84 
 
 THH LAND OF THIC MUSKI<:(; 
 
 therefore been upon what is called the Arctic slope 
 since we came to the Athabaska Landing. The 
 Summit Lake, however, empties towards the west, 
 where its waters become a part of the Missenchinea, 
 which ir. turn is a tributary of the Parsnip River. 
 
 Now this stream lies upon the western side of 
 the Rocky Mountains, and in the ordinary course 
 of nature should fall into the Pacific Ocean. But 
 this is not the case. The river flows to the north, 
 getting ever nearer the mountains, till it is joined 
 by the Findlay River, which runs towards the 
 south. Turn'ug sharply to the wesi, it flows in a 
 deep gorge right through the heart of the range, 
 and emerges upon the western slope urder the 
 name of Peace River, which, as I have said, empties 
 into the Arctic. I do not suppose that there is 
 another case in the world of a river returning and 
 flowing through the mountains from which it has 
 risen. As far as I could learn, there is no pass 
 or valley to account for this, but simply a deep 
 caiion. It would be au interesting point for 
 geologists to look into, as it seems hardly likely 
 that a river would deliberately fight its way through 
 so enormous a wall of rock. There are many 
 glaciers still extant in the Northern Rockies, and 
 these would doubtless have done much to excavate 
 any chasm or crack formed by the cooling of the 
 rock. Also the fact that the Peace carries a huoe 
 burden of ice in the spring would help lo deepen 
 
 '.,' 
 

 
 HUXGKR AND COLD 
 
 l8> 
 
 the canon when once the river had found a bed. 
 Still, the fact remains, and is sufficiently remarkable. 
 Mr. Warburton Pike, in his excellent book, The 
 Barren Grounds of N'orthern Canada, has given a 
 full description of this place. And certainly he had 
 very good cause to remember it, for it was there 
 that he suffered a period of starvation, which, from 
 the account he gives, must have nearly cost him his 
 life. I think that what I have stated will be under- 
 stood upon reference to the map which is given. 
 
 From what the Siccanee Indians had told us, 
 we imagined that our difficulties were now over, 
 and we might soon expect to find the pitching-trail 
 of which they spoke. We calculated that it would 
 take us about half a day to reach the point where 
 the stream from the lake, called the Attunatche, 
 joined the Missenchinea. After this we mtended 
 to follow the Missenchinea down to the confluence 
 of the Parsnip, which we imagined would take us 
 about four days ; and finally, we allowed one day 
 in wb.jcii to march from the Parsnip to Fort IVFLeod. 
 This i:'':e a total of five days and a half. 
 
 A! hb. .,h we knew that ve should travel in some 
 discomton is regards food, we were much cheered 
 by the apparent proximity of civilisa<-ion, uid a 
 reinforced commissariat. Our meals had become 
 very simple. Upon the shores of the Summit 
 Lake we turned our attention to horse-ribs. The 
 rruilt was extremely comical. I do not think that 
 
 f 
 
 1',.^ 
 
 m 
 
 r 
 I' 
 
 i 
 
 II 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
1 86 
 
 THI-: LAND OI' THI-: MUSKI-C 
 
 U ': 
 
 K 'ii ' ' 
 
 |l '; 
 
 \ 
 
 ■, ' 
 
 M 
 
 U 
 
 I ever saw a fuimier sight than we presented sitting 
 round the camp-fire, each gnawing a huge rib, and 
 holding the (Mids in our hands. The regulation 
 three cups of tea were always allowed to each man, 
 after which the meal was at an end. Then we 
 would smoke our pipes by the light of the fire, and 
 enjoy the most pleasant hour of the day in camp. 
 Tobacco is a great comfort after a hard day's work 
 in the open air, '] ""-/er superfluous a luxury in 
 civilisation ; and ti: are few pleasures in life 
 which come up to an after-dinner smoke in the 
 woods. Before you the great logs hiss and crackle 
 cheerfully, casting a ruddy glow upon the trees. 
 A curtain of darkness shuts off the forest behind 
 you ; around you are men with the same tastes 
 and interests as yourself. Every day brings much 
 that is new and of interest, and the little incidents 
 and jok js of the hour assume an importance hitherto 
 unknown. The talk veers round from tales of 
 sport — hunting lies they are called in the West — 
 to reminiscences of the old country, and again back 
 to the expectations of the morrow ; and so, as the 
 night draws on, one by one you retire to your 
 blankets and sleep the healthy sleep that is bred 
 of an outdoor life. It is a quaint existence, which 
 has many humorous sides to set off the periods of 
 discomfort, I might almost say misery, which are 
 certain to come to all those who attempt an expedi- 
 tion in the North-West. The pipe following in 
 
. i'..M...JI>J. T^»fi«H^^5SS" 
 
 Hrx(;i-:R and cold 187 
 
 the evening, after the only peaceful meal of the day, 
 gathers round it associations of comfort, repletion, 
 and rest that stood us in good stead when our times 
 were hard ; and often when the cravings of an empty 
 belly were making inroads on our spirits, and weak- 
 ness was generating depression, tobacco, with its 
 soothing memories, would drive the haunting spirit 
 for a season away. In the hard schooling of ad- 
 versity one learnt the truth of the poet's words — 
 
 'Thou who, when cares attack, 
 Jiidd'st them avaunt 1 and black 
 Care at the horseman's back 
 Perching, unseatest ! ' 
 
 The morning of the i8th broke cold and cheer- 
 less, and before we had begun breakfast the snow- 
 was falling fast. Packing the horses in a snowstorm 
 is most unpleasant. The ropes, hard and ice-covered, 
 hurt the hands, and being almost too stiff to mould 
 over the packs, the labour is greatly increased ; and 
 what was ordinarily a two and a half hours' job 
 lengthened itself by a painful hour. We had gone 
 but a few rods, when Bishon, an animal of very 
 strong character, bucked his pack off, and strolled 
 away into the timber. No sooner had we brought 
 him to reason, than one by one the horses com- 
 menced to roll and ease themselves of their burdens. 
 There had been very little food for some days, and 
 the poor brutes were in a miserable condition. The 
 cold was intense, and we ."-truggled in the thick 
 
 
 
 r ' 
 
 I h ■ 
 
 • 1 ■ r 
 
mr' 
 
 fi 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 1 88 
 
 lui': I.AM) ()!• riii: .\irsKi;(. 
 
 
 i 
 
 i I 
 
 
 ^, 
 
 i*. 
 
 M 
 
 f'i 
 
 &*■ . 1 !' V 
 
 i -I 
 
 I ■! 
 
 -^4. 
 
 underbrush in melancholy mood. By lunch-time 
 we came to the Missenchineu River, a shallow rapid 
 stream, not more than one hundred feet across. 
 The water was icy cold, and the rocks slip^jery to 
 our moccasined feet, hut we manaLfed to reach the 
 farther shore without wetting our knees. We now 
 proceeded to follow the river down, marching upon 
 the left-hand side. I had imagined that the trail 
 ran by the right bank, but Daukhan would not listen 
 to any word of change. The underbrush gave us 
 the usual amount of chopping, so that we had not 
 made more than a mile and a half by camping-time. 
 The ground was swampy and low ; but we found 
 that the valley was too broad to allow us to reach 
 the higher lands, and, indeed, what we could see 
 of them was not enticing. We accordingly drew 
 towards the river, everywhere deep pools and 
 beaver-dams blockinLr our wav, whilst the fjround 
 was covered with water to the depth of about six 
 inches, and in places had a thin crust of ice. 
 Several times we used the dams themselves as 
 bridges, and the extraordinary way in »»hich these 
 frail structures bore the weight of the horses testi- 
 fied to the skill of the builders. At last we found 
 a small dry [jatch, and there camjied for the night. 
 
 September \c)//i. — The bush seemed almost im- 
 penetrable, and the long line wound slowly through 
 the swamps under a cold and cheerless sky. The 
 meagre diet was telling upon us all, so that the icy 
 
tmm 
 
 wv^a^ 
 
 lir\(ii:K AM) COLD 
 
 189 
 
 water chilled us U) the bone, and our sopping 
 moccasins seemed like lumps of lead. There was 
 
 ;ii 
 
 'i 
 
 »■ / i 
 
 ■:l 
 
 The 
 
 ' K\ i;Hv\Mii;ki-; iii;i;i' I'om.^ and i;i.a\i.u dams 
 
 but one thino' to cheer us — the idea of the uood 
 trail ahead. \\\.' were forced to cross the river 
 
fri 
 
 .%; 
 
 ' P 
 
 
 I ' 
 
 
 i 
 
 ( 
 
 i 
 
 •^*:1 
 
 
 > ^ 
 
 I 
 
 190 
 
 Till': LAM) ()!• nil' MlSKI'd 
 
 twenty or thirty times in tiie day. Tiie backwaters 
 were frozen solid, and even in the centre of the 
 stream great lumps of ic(^ hung to the driftwood. 
 By lunch-time I had lost all feeling in my feet, and 
 tottered down to the fire in a helpless fashion. All 
 the afternoon, still crossing the stream, and often 
 wading waist-deep, we struggled forward. Evening 
 found us on the right bank of the river, crawling at 
 snail's pace in a muskeg, the horses stumbling 
 amongst the roots of the trees, and lurching- on to 
 their knees in the swampy pools. The old skew- 
 bald who led the train seemed to think that he had 
 had enough of marching, and often he would plant 
 his feet deep into the mud and refuse to budge. 
 Towards dark, after much shouting, swearing, and 
 chopping, we emerged into an open space. It had 
 seemed from a distance like a meadow of firm 
 ground ; but no sooner had we set foot upon it 
 than we discovered that it was simply a smooth 
 muskeg. The bush was for the most part under 
 water. It was getting dark, so that to go on was 
 misery, and here at least there was in places a little 
 feed for the horses ; so we decided to camp in the 
 open. The horses wallowed in the wet moss, sink- 
 ing in up to their knees at every step, and the water 
 gurgled round our ankles and beneath our moccasins. 
 How^ever, we unpacked, and, having made a fire, 
 set to L ^on the horsedesh supper. After the meal 
 we set up the tent fly, covering the floor with pine 
 
hi\(;i:r .and coi.d 
 
 ten 
 
 191 
 
 branches in a vain attempt to keep dry. There 
 was much discussion as to our position. We found 
 upon Mr. Dawson's map a small river mark, called 
 Fall Creek. During the morninj^- we had remarked 
 a waterfall in a tributary of the Missenchinea coniinn 
 in from the south. From this we conjectured that 
 we had already marched a considerable distance. 
 A little below our camp the river showed deep and 
 
 'ULK CAMl' WAS MI.'-IOKAIJI.V WIIT 
 
 Still, and seemed altogether far larger than when we 
 first joined it. Allah, however, said that we had 
 still a longer way to go. He pointed out a moun- 
 tain at a great distance, and said that the ' hard 
 ground ' began there. Our camp was miserably 
 wet and uncomfortable, and there Avas every appear- 
 ance of snow. 
 
 September 20th. — Everything we possessed was 
 dripping after lying all night in the muskeg. The 
 
 'J 
 
 (.! 
 
 \V 
 
n 
 
 192 
 
 I III' I. AM) ()!• nil': MISKIIC. 
 
 II' m 1 
 
 K I 
 
 i- 
 
 morning was as usual cold, and the surface of die 
 nioss was crisp with frost, so that packing was an 
 actual aL^'ony. The whole party looked rather 
 miserable ; but we cheered one another with a 
 formula which had grown to mean much to us ; 'it 
 can't be far to M' Leod.' I still retained my post 
 as leader of the train after the axe-men, and, though 
 the work was hard, I was extremely glad of it, for 
 this kind of life does not improve the temper, and 
 
 MAKCIIING IN Ml'M<KG.S 
 
 the moral trials of pack-train driving are apt to 
 exhaust one's fund of forbearance. The horses 
 were constantly falling, and even the bridges 
 of branches and bush which the axe-men made 
 over the worst places did not seem to help them 
 much. We had moved off at about eight o'clock, 
 and it was not till one that we halted for lunch. 
 In looking back we found that we had made 
 about half a mile as the crow fiies. A mile in 
 ten hours would be considered a slow rate in 
 
IIUNOI'k AM) COLD 
 
 •93 
 
 J 
 
 ; of the 
 
 was an 
 
 rather 
 
 with a 
 
 us : 'It 
 
 my post 
 
 , thou'^h 
 
 )f it, for 
 
 per, and 
 
 apt to 
 
 horses 
 
 bridges 
 
 m made 
 
 ip them 
 
 |o'cloci<, 
 
 lunch. 
 
 made 
 
 piile in 
 
 rate in 
 
 most places, but we knew that we had made the 
 best time possible. Lunch was a lu<^ubrious 
 meal : the food nasty and scant, and no sooner 
 had wc bolted what we could, than we had to be 
 I up and packing again. Till then we had always 
 
 roasted our meat. We now discovered that we 
 could put it to a double use by boiling it. In this 
 way wc added a thin soup to our meat diet. This 
 we prized as a great delicacy, being scru[)ulously 
 careful that each should get his exact portion, neither 
 more nor less. During the afternoon we were again 
 much troubled by devil's clubs, so that the blood 
 oozed out of our knees and shins, causing us much 
 pain. Towards e^'cning, to our great disappoint- 
 ment, we passed Fall Creek, and then we realised 
 that wc had not travelled so far as wc had imagined. 
 Soon after thi:-., word was passed to camp at the 
 first place where we found food for the horses, and 
 before long we came to a halt. Pollen seemed very 
 ill. He had been obliged to ride on account of his 
 ankle ; and it appeared that Charley, his horse, had 
 slipped among the roots and fallen, crushing his 
 foot against a rock. The Doctor made a rapid 
 examination, and said that he believed that one of 
 the bones of the foot was broken, but that he would 
 not be able to make certain until the followinqf 
 morning, by which time he seemed to think the 
 inflammation would have gone down. This was 
 awful. We had a small flask of spirits in the camp ; 
 
 N 
 

 ^ i!f 
 
 
 :<>! 
 
 ^ > 
 
 I 
 
 if, 
 
 t1 
 
 f 
 
 1 
 i 
 1 
 
 i. 
 
 
 194 
 
 III I'. LAND or II II'. MISKI'-.C; 
 
 but, besides this, had [)racticaily nothinjj^ with which 
 to revive: an invahd. It seemed a farce to ask a 
 man who was ahnost faintin<^^ with pain to share the 
 disi^ustin_L,r frarjments of l)oiled horse which were 
 beini;- prepared for supper, so we sat and stared 
 into the fire in silence. The Doctor was a man 
 with ureat confidence in his own skill ; and as 
 usual shouted when he was required to show 
 his knowledge of the healing art. And so now, 
 whilst we all sat in silence, brooding over our 
 misfortunes, he, with his mouth full of meat, 
 yelled out long tales of his student-days, and 
 histories of knife-work amongst the entrails of 
 what he called 'cadavers.' Listening to these 
 cheering reminiscences, we rolled ourselves in our 
 blankets and lay around the fire, feeling too 
 helpless even to put up the tent. In the morning 
 Pollen's foot was again examined, and it was found 
 that no bone was broken, but that it was badly 
 inllamed and bruised. We proposed to remain in 
 camp to allow him to rest, as he seemed much 
 exhausted by a sleepless night and the pain he had 
 suffered ; but he would not hear of it, saying that 
 it would be many days before he was well again, 
 and that the great thing was to push forward to the 
 fort, where we could spend some days in peace. 
 
 The country w^as as bad as ever, always swampy 
 and choked with fallen trees and underbrush. 
 Occasionally we came across Mr. Dawson's blaz- 
 
h 
 
 mmmmm 
 
 m 
 
 nrxc,i:k wd coi.t) 
 
 195 
 
 th which 
 to ;isk a 
 iharc the 
 ich were 
 d stared 
 s a man 
 and as 
 to show 
 
 so now, 
 Dver our 
 of meat, 
 ays, and 
 itrails of 
 to these 
 js in our 
 lin^ too 
 
 mornint^ 
 ^as found 
 as badly 
 emain in 
 ed much 
 m he had 
 ying that 
 2II a<jfain, 
 ird to the 
 leace. 
 ; swampy 
 derbrush. 
 )n's blaz- 
 
 ni.t,^s. hut iliis was no cheering sight to us, for it only 
 pr.)ved, what we had already feared-namely. that 
 all traces of their trail had long since disappeared, 
 and that the road which was to lead us quickly out 
 of the country no longer existed. The hard work, 
 the wet, and the short commons were telling upon' 
 lis all. and very weary and exhausted we "looked 
 when we stopped for luncheon. Suddenly we made 
 a discovery. We had lighted our hre close to a big 
 I)ine-tree marked with one of Mr. Dawson's blaze.^ 
 Chancing to examine the tree more closely, we 
 discovered a second blaze, with these words painted 
 upon it, 'Survey, 21st July 1879. G. INI, D.'' 
 
 It seemed an extraordinary thing that we should 
 have chanced to rest upon the site of this camp, 
 but we did not wait to talk of coincidences. The 
 writing might mean much to us. We knew that 
 Mr. Dawson had left Fort AFLcod on the i jih 
 July, but had spent a whole day crossing the 
 Parsnip. The cjuestion was, Had he made this 
 writing in the morning or the evening ? In march- 
 ing through a country a man uses two camps per 
 day ; he gets up in one and goes to bed in another 
 —on the same day. Now it might chance that the 
 blaze had been made in the morning— that is to say, 
 
 ' It seems won.lorful that written words shouUI remain lemhle after so 
 
 Ions: exposure to the weather, hut the explanation is sin.pie. A hl.z i 
 
 made ,n a pme-tree. and the writing, is painted upon the fresh-cut wood '• 
 
 hen the re>n.>us sap .lowin, from the tree gla.es over the paint an re^ 
 
 It almost impenshahle. «>.uucrs 
 
 
 "I 
 
 i' ' 
 
 
 ;(,: 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 

 ^'' ... 
 
 ■1 
 
 
 i; 
 
 if'i ' 
 
 ■■v,i:'';tf 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 iM 
 It 
 
 I 
 
 196 
 
 I'm". i-.WD 01 mi". MrsKi'.c. 
 
 i'.fUT the ihinl cl;i\'s march iVoin the fori : or a>;aiii, 
 it inii;ht ha\-c hccr. niatlc in the cvcniii";- of thi' same 
 day after the fourlh marcli. We lotiked at it 
 from ever)' point of vii'W, 'nit, of eonrse, etniUl come 
 to no conchision. A wliole da.v of miser\' hunj;' in 
 the balance. We were h\' this time in a sorry 
 condition. I was forced through sheer exhaustion 
 
 
 
 .rti»v'* 
 
 
 V'T ■'If 
 
 ni;.\n i;r.\i- 
 
 to L;i\e u[) m\- place iii ihi" fore part of dn- ti-ain, and 
 took ni)- turn at ch-i\ ins; the |)ack-horses in the 
 better trodden path at the rear. 'Idle evi-r-reail_\- 
 Roinul — the hardest worker auu)ns;st the wiiitt-s — 
 was compelled to ride. Ramsey walked hea\ily, 
 leaniui; upon a stick, and even the Doctor's \-oice 
 was hushed with fatigue. 1 )aukhan"s spirits were 
 at their lowest, and both he and John were hardly 
 
Mi 
 
 in \(ii.-R .\\i) coi.i) 
 
 '97 
 
 <it lor the labour of rli„p,,[no- the trail. I-^m- the 
 iT.st two clays of the liorse period, Allah, the 
 Heaver, had been practically starving. He had 
 declared that he could not eat horse/ savino- that 
 once he made himself very ill upon this niearai an 
 Indian feast after a Ion- period of fa.nine. Before 
 Io.lL>;. however, he fell upon it. greedily pushino- for 
 the fattest morsels with unseemly haste. Our stock 
 oi me::t was becomino- alarminoly low. and as our 
 meals became, more aiul .nore meaorc-. our minds 
 seemed to oet beyond control and to run continually 
 on lood. Cookery became the one topic of con- 
 versation. !t .ippeared tb.at no oiu- could speak 
 without some hint of the dinner-table. komul the 
 '•mip-lu-e in the evc-nin-s w(« would discuss our 
 favourite di hes in a way which was hardlv human, 
 and certainly was far from decent. One would 
 hanker after steak, another for potatoes; for my 
 part I had but one vision of happiness in this world 
 raspberry jam an<i bread-and-buiter. I would 
 '■ -i.U' to be in a civilised country a-ain. .so that 
 1 niioht -•() In stealth and purchase^ pots of preserves, 
 and then, lockin- myself n my room, attack them 
 with ;. spoon. I cannot imagine why this particI1^M• 
 mania sei/ovl me; I luve at times had -limmerfnos 
 above jam, as I believe and trust the' others had 
 al)()ve stiMk and potatoes; but the dis-ustin- fact 
 remains. 
 
 Towards exening we < ntered a oreat muskco-. 
 
 tf 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ilt 
 
 I 
 
.^W ;, 
 
 ■^ 
 
 m^^mi 
 
 P, .\\ 
 
 ■i ) 
 
 f 
 
 f; 
 
 f^ ' 
 
 )^ 
 
 I :|: 
 
 198 
 
 THE LAND OF TIIF. MUSKFX, 
 
 i' ,' 
 
 We had already passed the point where Allah had 
 said the ' hard i^^round ' commenced ; but as yet we 
 saw no sign of it. Darkness came on, and we 
 camped in the swamp between the trees, rolling 
 ourselves in our blankets on the wet ground, and 
 spreading the tent over us as we lay, for there w^as 
 every appearance of snow, and a light rain was 
 already falling. 
 
 September 22nd. — We awoke feeling weak and 
 ill. The valley appeared to be broadening out, and 
 
 the niuskeg seemed 
 to cover all the lower 
 ground so we were 
 forced to return to- 
 wards the mountains, 
 almost retracing our 
 steps. John, the half- 
 breed, complained 
 much oi pains in his body, ana seemed to be 
 suffering from the effects of the damp. Daukhan 
 was more haofgard and worn than we. We had not 
 gone far when the faithful Pinto became hopelessly 
 bogged. The poor old horse struggled and jjlunged, 
 but every movement sent him deeper into the mud, 
 until at la^'t he lost heart, and neidier kindness nor 
 brutality would move him. We were forced to cut 
 i)ranches and place them under him, but the com- 
 bined efforts of the whole party did not succeed in 
 extricating him until he had been a prisoner for 
 
 ' UAUK.NKSS CAMK O.N 
 
 \ 
 
lah had 
 yet we 
 and we 
 rolling 
 ind, and 
 lere was 
 ain was 
 
 eak and 
 out, and 
 seemed 
 he low^er 
 we were 
 :turn to- 
 ountains, 
 :ing our 
 the half- 
 1 plained 
 d to be 
 3aukhan 
 had not 
 Dpelessly 
 plunged, 
 the mud, 
 ness nor 
 d to cut 
 ;he com- 
 icceed in 
 oner for 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 huxgi:r and cold 
 
 199 
 
 close upon two hours. By the time we halted for 
 lunch every one was worn-out. Many of us walked 
 leaning upon two sticks, utterly exhausted. The 
 repacking of the horses seemed almost impossible, 
 and the lighbi;^st duty a superhuman effort. For 
 some distance the muskeg continued ; dark pines 
 overhead shut out the licjht of the leaden sun ; 
 
 'THK HARD GUOUM) 
 
 tangled branches caught our feet ; deep slushy mud 
 impeded our weary steps. 
 
 Suddenly from the front of the train there came a 
 cry of ' The hard ground ! the hard ground ! ' and in 
 a few moments we emerged from the thick swampy 
 forest in which we had been travelling for so man)- 
 days, into open country and a firm soil. The ground 
 sloped gently away from us in a rolling plain, 
 
 »( 
 
 r 
 
 ' 
 
' 
 
 200 
 
 Tni<: LAND ()!• THr^ MUSKF-Ci 
 
 tj. ■■ 
 
 '!•. 
 
 i I 
 
 dotted here and there with chimps of pine-trees. 
 Light healthy breezes blew across the open space, 
 cheerinu- and invis^oratincr. But above all — there, 
 on our rioht — lay a broad Indian trail skirtini^ the 
 hillocks and winding- through the trees. 
 
 Never have I seen such a change. A minute 
 before we had been poor wrecks hobbling wearily 
 along, supporting ourselves with sticks. Now in a 
 moment the crutches were cast aside, and with a 
 shout of joy we rushed forward, actually dancing 
 with pleasure. The horses were driven towards 
 the trail, and we quickened our pace. At first we 
 seemed ashamed of our folly, but soon throwing 
 aside all disguise we commenced to run, and with 
 knocking knees and panting breath pounded down 
 the trail like children. I think it was in the minds 
 of all that we might reach the Parsnij) River that 
 night, but no one liked lo say so. The thing 
 seemed too good to be true. 
 
 We were in no condition for running, and now- 
 one, now another, would lag behind, when it became 
 the duty of the whole expedition to shout and 
 encourau'e them. About th(; middle of the after- 
 noon it commenced to rain, ;ind so continued until 
 dark. Several times we were obliged to halt to fix 
 the packs, and it was during one of these halts that 
 we held a council. 
 
 According to Mr. Dawson's map the trail we 
 were on led to the forks of the Missenchinea and 
 
ine-trccs. 
 :n space, 
 1 — there, 
 rting the 
 
 L minute 
 ;■ wer'irily 
 lOw in a 
 
 1 with a 
 clancino- 
 
 towards 
 first we 
 Sirowino- 
 k\ witli 
 d down 
 
 2 minds 
 'cr that 
 1 thino- 
 
 id now 
 became 
 Lit and 
 I after- 
 d until 
 t to fix 
 ts that 
 
 uii we • 
 .'a and 
 
 HUNGIiK AND COLD 
 
 the Parsnip. Now Allah declared th, 
 
 20I 
 
 It it was quite 
 unnecessary to make so long a detour, and that he 
 knew of a trail which would take us straight to the 
 fort. He said that he was perfectly certahi that he 
 could find the. way, and that by following his ad^•ice 
 we could save a whole day. Daukhan joined Allah 
 in this, saying that he also had heard of this trail, 
 and that if it existed at all he could without doubt 
 find it. 
 
 It must be remembered that all this time we had 
 
 absolutelydcpended upon Daukhan for our guidance. 
 Without him we could not possibly have crossed 
 the moLuitains, for a compass is no guide in so 
 difficult a district-as one might spend a whole 
 year in exploring the eastern slope without finding 
 a pass suitable for horses. Daukhan himself had 
 never crossed by the Pine l^iss before, but he 
 had all the information possible from his friends 
 at Dunvcgan. In an Indian camp there are only 
 a kw topics of conversation, so that they spend 
 much of their time in describing places they 
 have visited, entering minutely into' the details oV 
 the landmarks, and these tilings mean more to an 
 Indian than to a white man. So now. after ha\ in- 
 witnessed with astonishment the way in which he 
 led us through an unknown country, we did not 
 doubt but that he must be right in this instance, 
 even though he was telling us to leave our firm trail 
 and again take to the woods. The ground was still 
 
 4 
 
 ii'fl 
 
 1 1 
 
 fi 
 
 •1 1 
 I ''1 
 
 'J 
 
 1 
 
 t 
 
 I i[- 
 
, ' 
 
 •\ 
 
 
 V I 
 
 t ■ 
 
 i! 
 
 I 
 
 ?!■ ..■ 
 
 •i 
 
 I'iJf 
 
 T 
 
 ■m 
 
 I 
 
 't 
 
 ,)■ \ 
 
 V 
 
 )'■ .h 
 
 1^ } 
 
 202 
 
 Tin-: LAND OF Till-: .Ml'SKF.r. 
 
 fairly open, so that wc continued to run even after 
 leaving the trail ; but our pace was not rapid, and, 
 weak and exhausted, wc stumbled on. Darkness 
 was coming on fast, and still we saw nothing of our 
 short cut. We stopped the horses and sent 1 )aukhan, 
 Allah, and John out as scouts, whilst we remained 
 behind to mind the animals. In this place we 
 found some frost-bitten blueberries, which we ate 
 ravenously. They were our first taste of vege- 
 tables for many days, and though frozen to a dry 
 pulp, they seemed wonderfully good. Soon John 
 and Daukhan returned, saying that they could find 
 neither a trail nor any water. Shortness of water 
 was a hardship we had never looked for in that 
 swampy country. We were already a long way 
 from the IMissenchinea, and we came to the con- 
 clusion that we would rather make a ' dry ' camp 
 than retrace one step of our toilsome journey. It 
 seemed better to continue our march towards the 
 imaginary trail, and chance, if possible, upon some 
 creek, or even upon the Parsnip, By this time it was 
 quite dark, so that we had the utmost difticulty in 
 driving the horses through the bush. A pack-train 
 is hard enough to manage by day, but by night, 
 through a trackless waste, it is wellnigh impossible. 
 John had gone ahead again, and before long w^e 
 came upon him sitting by a small fire. He shouted 
 to us that we had better camp, and proceeded to 
 undo one of the packs, from which we concluded 
 
 .' 
 
 f I 
 
 i 
 
HUNGF.R AND COLD 
 
 'cn after 
 pid, and, 
 darkness 
 ig of our 
 )aukhan, 
 emained 
 ilace wc 
 
 we ate 
 3f vcg-c- 
 to a dry 
 311 John 
 uld find 
 of water 
 
 in that 
 ng way 
 he con- 
 ■ ' camp 
 ley. It 
 rds the 
 n some 
 e it was 
 culty in 
 ck-train 
 y nioht, 
 ossible. 
 3 no- ^ve 
 shouted 
 :ded to 
 icluded 
 
 203 
 
 , 
 
 that all was right. On being asked if lie had found 
 any water he was very mysterious, as was his way, 
 but soon confessed that he had found nothin<r. I 
 thnik we should have camped had it not been for 
 Daukhan, who declared that he would push on, even 
 if he went by himself. Accordingly, wc moved on 
 in the darkness, and luckily we had not far to go. 
 for we soon found a muskeg. The rain was 
 still falling fast, and our hands were so numb that 
 wc could hardly undo the ropes. The supper was 
 prepared, but by this time the party were in too low 
 a state to care much for their food. Nevertheless, 
 the wolfish rush which was always made for the 
 pan in which the portions were laid out was one of 
 the most disgusting features of this wretched time. 
 Drenching w^et, and faint with weakness, we huddled 
 into the tent and tried to rest. 
 
 Scptcmbo' 23?'^/.— Torrents of rain were foiling 
 when we awoke, so we decided to remain in camp 
 for a short time on the chance of a change in the 
 weather. The tattered map was again produced, 
 and again and again we scanned its familiar face, in 
 the attempt to fmd out liow far we might be fi jni 
 the Parsnip. W^e had that map by heart, and knew 
 every line and every curve ujion it ; yet we always 
 crowded round it as though we imagined that the 
 I)osition of the fort might have changed in the 
 
 nio-ht. 
 
 I 
 
 \ 
 
 (• 
 
 Presently the rain lightened, but a heavy fog hid 
 
 im 
 
 '1 
 
 I 
 
204 
 
 THI- LAND OF TU\l MUSKIiG 
 
 • I I 
 
 
 r r 
 
 ft 
 
 i 
 
 I- 
 
 V 
 
 f 
 t 
 
 M' 
 
 the landscape. Daukhan had now altered liis Hne of 
 march, and was leading towards the forks of the 
 Missenchinea and the Parsnip, as though he had 
 already seen the folly of his plan. The country 
 was open, but the ground was strewn with small 
 pine-trees blackened by a forest fire. These 
 hindered the horses considerably, and our march 
 was slow. Towards midday the fog lifted, and dis- 
 closed the Parsnip about a mile to our left. We 
 raised a cheer and hurried down the valley at our 
 best pace. After crossing a small muskeg, we cut 
 our way through a line of willows and stood upon 
 the river-bank. The Parsnip was not so big a 
 stream as I had supposed — not more than five 
 hundred feet broad. It appeared to be shallow, 
 but rapid. The Siccanees had told us that we 
 should be oblio;ed to swim the horses, as the river 
 was too deep to ford. They said that we should 
 find a canoe at the end of the trail, in which we 
 might ferry our goods ; but we had left the trail and 
 so missed the canoe. Daukhan, however, pointed 
 out that the river was very low, and said that he 
 believed that it could be forded. He made the 
 attempt, and proved that he was right. Accordingly 
 we unpacked a few of the horses, and riding these, 
 drove the pack-train across, then, returning, 
 transported the remainder of our goods, and finally 
 crossed ourselves. The stream was strong, but did 
 not rise above the horses' girths, so that we re- 
 
 \ '' 
 
 Itr 
 
HUNGI'k AM) COLD 
 
 205 
 
 biV a 
 
 •y 
 
 manu=d dry. Ridin.- in rapid water is always very 
 unpleasant, for should a horse make a mistake the 
 result to the rider is likely to he serious. Arrived 
 upon the western bank, we made camp. Allah now 
 told us that he knew of another trail to the fort 
 But our faith in him had left us, and we smiled 
 scornfully when we saw him leave camp to search 
 for It. In less than an hour he returned, and re- 
 ported that he had found it. He said it passed 
 quite close to our camp, but that at first it was poor 
 and overgrown. 
 
 Farther on he believed that it improved, and 
 that by followinq; it we could without doubt arrive 
 at AM.cod on the following- evening. T^ort M^Leod 
 hcs at the northern extremity of M'Lcod's Lake 
 at the point where the Pack River leaves the 
 ake. Parther down, the Pack broadens out into a 
 big pool known as Trout Lake. Below this aoain 
 the nver flows into the Parsnip. We calculated 
 that we should be able to reach Trout Lake by 
 lunch-time on the following day, and that we could 
 ccu^.ly make the fort from there in the afternoon. 
 All this tmie Allah solemnly declared that he knew 
 for a fact that the trail ran the whole distance to 
 INLLeod. We had practically finished our supr.ly 
 of food. Nothing remained of the unfortunate 
 Uuke but a few bones and some lumps of oristle 
 bonie one suggested that we should kill thl do-. 
 Boxer. I think that we had often looked at hin^ 
 
 \f 
 
 tn 
 
 I ^ ;! 
 
 f^ 'UJ- 
 
 W 
 
 'i 
 
•i 
 
 Pi .. L ' I 
 
 206 
 
 I III-: LAND OI< Till- MUSKI'G 
 
 ■• f 
 
 \ I' ' . ♦ 
 
 > 
 
 Ij. M S' 
 
 1^ „• 
 
 tVoin the point of view of the butcher ; in fact, 1 have 
 a vivid recollection of hearing the probable colour 
 of his meat discussed. Ikit now that it came to the 
 point we disliked the idea. 'I'o begin with, the 
 poor brute was very mani^y ; and attain, it seemed 
 disoustinti: to kill him when we were so sure of 
 reaching the fort on the morrow. So we boiled our 
 bones and gristle, and drank the thin greasy water 
 which was the result, at the same time being ex- 
 tremely careful to keep our stock for another meal. 
 
 At the first glimmerings of light we were up and 
 about, but our condition was wretched in the 
 extreme. John and Round were too weak to pack 
 at all, and the Doctor, Ramsey, and I could do 
 no more than get the packs made up. So the 
 getting them on the horses was left to Daukhan 
 and Pollen, who, though very lame, was much the 
 stronoest of us all, as he had been ridino; throuuh 
 all the hard time. But, short-handed as we were, 
 the packing was got through as quickly as possible, 
 and we started with high hopes and the vision of 
 supper at the fort before our eyes — supper with 
 bread and bacon and coffee! The Indians said 
 that we should find all these. The idea of Fort 
 M'^Leod loomed up before us great and gorgeous 
 — a haven of rest and a palace of delight. 
 
 Meanwhile our work was cut out for us. The 
 hill was steep, and the trail, as the Beaver had 
 said, bad. Before long, however, we reached the 
 
HUNr.I.:R AM) COLD 
 
 ct, I have 
 ble colour 
 mc to tlic 
 with, the 
 t secinccl 
 ) sure of 
 loilcd our 
 isy water 
 DeitiL,^ ex- 
 ler meal, 
 e up and 
 
 in the 
 ; to pack 
 :ould do 
 
 So the 
 Daukhan 
 nuch the 
 through 
 we were, 
 l^ossible, 
 /ision of 
 3er with 
 ins said 
 of Fort 
 
 orgeous 
 
 s. The 
 ver had 
 :hed the 
 
 207 
 
 upland and moved faster. We could not run as 
 we had done before, for we uere far too weak, but 
 still we made our best pace. At twelve o'clock we 
 caucrht sight of 'I-rout Lake gleaming below us. 
 and, going forward to the shore, rested the horses. 
 1-or some time we hunted in vain amongst the 
 kitchen utensils for something lor luncheon.'and at 
 last produced two or three scraps of fat about as 
 big as a dollar; these we fried and solemnly 
 divided amongst us. Without tea and tobacco I 
 don't know how we should have pulled through. 
 We had not unpacked the horses, as was our usual 
 custom, for we felt doubtful if we should have the 
 strength left to repack them if we did so. 
 
 And so. after a short halt, we marched on again, 
 with the lake on our right hand. The country" was 
 very bad, but we still hoped to reach Allah's 
 ' excellent trail.' In this we were, as usual, doomed 
 to disappointment. The way became worse and 
 worse, until we came to the borders of a burnt track ; 
 then we gave up all hope of reaching the fort, and 
 crawled forward over the charred logs in abject 
 misery. Hour after hour the train moved forward 
 at a funereal gait ; it seemed as if we should never 
 reach our destination. Ahead of us we saw mile after 
 mile of blackened trees standing gaunt and bare ; 
 thick masses of pea- vine and wild raspberry hid the 
 earth under our feet. At last we reached the thick 
 standing woods. But even then our case was not 
 
i 
 
 \: 
 
 It' i .' 
 
 V 
 
 h 
 
 'H 
 
 ,)■ 
 
 
 l\H\ I 
 
 i r 
 
 208 
 
 llll' I.AXI) OI- IIII' MlSKI'Ci 
 
 iini)rovccl ; fiillcn timber impeded our passage, so 
 tliat ol'teii we were oblii^^ed to retrace our steps to 
 circumvent some insurmountable barricade. I'^ach 
 log seemed like a mountain ; we could hardly lift 
 our tired legs ; our arms hung heavy and useless 
 from much chopping. Several times we came close 
 to the Pack River, running deep and still between 
 the trees. Darkness came on, and still we moved 
 forward. Daukhan had left us the last time we 
 neared the river, saying he would try and find the 
 trail, and John now led the train. The horses had 
 been saddled since early morning, and the packs 
 were loosening and recjuired attention. With the 
 coming of night a madness seemed to seize the 
 tired animals, and we wasted the last remnant of 
 our strength in driving then. ; the strain became 
 almost too great, and it seemed that we must give 
 up in despair. Presently a pack came off, and we 
 left it lying. 
 
 But at last our endurance gave out, and we un- 
 saddled the horses in a little open space. Some one 
 made a fire, round which we sat in silence. Daukhan 
 had not returned, so we fired off a rifle to let him 
 know our whereabouts. Soon he came in, saying 
 that he had already given up, and had made a fire 
 for himself, intending to remain where he was, but, 
 finding us so close at hand, he had come up the hill 
 to be with us. We unrolled our beds, and then 
 returned to the fire to see if there was anything 
 
 I 
 
nr\(;i.;R and coi.i; 
 
 assagc, so 
 r steps to 
 Ic. Kach 
 hardly lift 
 id useless 
 amc close 
 1 between 
 ^e moved 
 
 time we 
 I find the 
 orses had 
 he packs 
 With the 
 ^eize the 
 mnant of 
 
 became 
 uist give 
 ', and we 
 
 ^1 we II n- 
 ome one 
 -)aukhan 
 let him 
 1, saying 
 le a fire 
 vas, but, 
 • the hill 
 nd then 
 nything 
 
 209 
 
 |'> ^--at. Again and again we searched the cook- 
 box, but found absolutely nothing. Then we sat 
 down agam. 
 
 Some one sup-oested fI^n^ ,.< 1 j 1 
 ,. , .^,>^LsiLci mat \\v. sliould trv the 
 
 n,ecl,cal stores The Doctor brouglu then, ou, a,ul 
 we hunted <hl,,en.l;. ; in che botton, of , Mask we 
 found a couple of spoonfuls of |an,aica ^dn.er' 
 wli.ch we tnixed with stron^ tea. This sec^ned" to 
 |- K-er us up a little, and, to son,e e.Ntent. to stay 
 ic^ l'an«s of hunj,,, fro,,, „|,i,|, „.^ ^^,^,_.^ ^^^^^^^.J 
 
 Once more we looked at the „,an,.y dog. and th™ 
 se to work to talk over our position. We knew 
 "'■"tic fort could not be ,ery far away-how far 
 "■<-l.a not know. Daukhan thought it n,ight be 
 ju.st below us on the river, but seemed too ex- 
 haust,.d to take much interest in the conversation, 
 Alk:-. a,d ,t was further t,p the stream. It was 
 clear that unless we had foo.l we shotdd not have 
 he strength to pack the horses, and exen then we 
 dotibted whether one meal would do us an^• .oo.l 
 1 wo co.,rses l,ay open to us : either w.- mu.st kill 
 one o the animals, or wo mtist leave the can,p 
 behtnd and .set out by ot.rselves that „igl„ and fini 
 l>e fort^ 1 h,s latter cot.rse seemed best. If we 
 found the fort all would be well ; on the other 
 •and, ,f we d,d not succeed in doing so. we should 
 be compelled to spend the night without either 
 shelter or coverings a trying thing for men in our 
 turn and weakened condition. 
 
 'iii 
 
 Jl 
 
 i 
 
 \- 
 
 o 
 
'Vf: 
 
 
 I I! 
 
 '8 
 
 ^ 
 
 l^i- 
 
 I ■■ 
 
 ,11 
 
 1 . 
 
 y t 
 
 '■f 
 
 ii ' 
 
 i I 
 
 I. II 
 
 2IO 
 
 TlilC LAND Ol' THl' Ml'SKILC. 
 
 Pollen now asked Allah if he would be willing to 
 i'uide us. He said that he would not, as he had 
 only one suit of clothes, and as we should be 
 obliecd to cross the river to reach the fort these 
 would !(et wet. He said that if he remained for 
 the night in wet clothes he would undoubtedly be 
 ill. Poiien told him that if he brought us to the 
 fort he would imrredlately purchase a new suit 
 for him, and after this he said he would come. 
 Volunteers were now called, and the question put 
 to all. Daukhan said he could noi ^o any farther 
 that night ; Ramsey and the Doctor said the same ; 
 John, Round, Pollen, and I resolved to make the 
 attempt. 
 
 It must he remembered that we had been up, 
 and either packing or marching, since half-past three 
 in the morning. We practical!)- had no food but a 
 little v.'atery soup and tea since the previous day, 
 'ind in our condition it may he. im.igined that 
 si.xteen hours' work h./l left us absolutelv ex- 
 hausted. I^ik hope is a wonderful reviver, and 
 the idea of getting in reality to the fort that night 
 put such spirit into us that I felt as it we couKl 
 have gone on almost for ever. So ne each wrap])ed 
 our shoulders in a piece of blanket, and leaving the 
 camp-fire started out into the c^arkncss. It was 
 now about eight o'clock in thi evening. Rain 
 had been falling during the dav, but had ceased. 
 Allah led the wav, and we tollowed in single file. 
 
 l!^ 
 
lilHi 
 
 'Ai 
 
 /illing to 
 ; he had 
 lould be 
 )rt these 
 lined for 
 jtedly be 
 IS to the 
 new suit 
 Id come, 
 "ition put 
 ly farther 
 he same ; 
 iicike tlie 
 
 been up, 
 past three 
 )d but a 
 lous day. 
 ed that 
 itelv ex- 
 ver, and 
 at night 
 e could 
 wrapped 
 iving the 
 It was 
 Rain 
 ceased, 
 nj^le file. 
 
 ' 1 
 
 * 
 
 1 1 
 
Itfe ■In 
 
 212 
 
 THI<: LAND OI« THIi MUSKIiCi 
 
 <«i ■ 
 
 '■ t 
 
 /. i , 1 
 
 Soon our eyes became more accustomed to the 
 gloom, and falls became less numerous. We were 
 moving across an open prairie covered with long 
 grass, which hid the logs, thus impeding our pro- 
 gress. Presently we came to the river — still and 
 deep. There was not a sound to be heard. 
 Through the thin places in the shifting clouds we 
 could see that the moon was up, and once, the light 
 being a little stronger, we saw, far away upon the 
 .sky-line, a low range of mountains. They might 
 have been five or fifty miles away. Allah said that 
 he thought the fort lay close to this range ; but as 
 he had no standard measure of distance, it was 
 useless to ask him whether they were far off 
 
 Every moment, however, we became more and 
 more convinced that we should not reach M^'Leod 
 that night, and as the certainty of failure grew, our 
 spirits went down, and we felt how tired we really 
 were. After a while we entered the thick timber. 
 There the logs lay piled one above the other to the 
 height of a man's chest ; they were slippery as 
 glass. Not a breath of wind stirred the leaves. It 
 was the weirdest scene I have ever looked upon, 
 and the strange rugged figure of the Beaver Indian 
 now and then standing clear against the sky 
 did not make it any more commonplace. A fate 
 seemed to follow Pollen ; he had been walking very 
 lame, and now he again slipped on one of the wet 
 logs, and fell, once more injuring his foot. So we 
 
led to the 
 
 We were 
 
 with long 
 
 I our pro- 
 
 — still and 
 
 be heard. 
 
 clouds we 
 
 i, the light 
 
 upon the 
 
 hey might 
 
 h said that 
 
 ^e ; but as 
 
 ce, it was 
 
 off. 
 
 more and 
 
 h M'-Leod 
 
 grew, our 
 
 we really 
 
 ck timber. 
 
 ther to the 
 
 lippery as 
 
 eaves. 1 1 
 
 ked upon. 
 
 ver Indian 
 
 the sky 
 
 t. A fate 
 
 Iking very 
 
 of the wet 
 
 t. So we 
 
 HUNGER AND COLD o]^ 
 
 halted whilst he bound up his hurt. Suddenly, far 
 away up the valley we heard the faint tinkle of 
 a cattle-bell. We listened, holding our breath ; the 
 woods were as silent as the tomb ; then again the 
 clear note rang out, reviving our hopes. Of course, 
 the animal might have wan^lered ten miles from the 
 homestead, but at least we were on the right track. 
 Allah climbed up a tree, looking for any signs of 
 a fire, but saw nothino-. 
 
 Then for another hour we plodded forward. Sud- 
 denly we heard the sound of rushing water. We 
 had been told that the river was fordable in front of 
 the fort : was this the ford ? We could see the 
 water gleaming ahead of us through the trees. As 
 we approached the gleam grew broader and broader. 
 It was the lake! W^e rushed down to the sliore. 
 As we did so, the friendly clouds passed for a 
 moment from before the moon, and there in the 
 moonlight, on the opi^osite side of the river, a 
 building loomed up big in the darkness. It was 
 the fort ! 
 
 We stood in a group on the bank and stared out 
 across the stream ; for fully a minute not a word 
 was spoken ; then some one said, ' By Jove!' and 
 we relapsed into silence. After a little while 
 another suggested that this was M^Leod. but 
 his words carried no conviction. We watched that 
 buildmg as though we expected to see it melt 
 away like a figure in a dream. Still the fort 
 
 !»!• 
 
 (1 
 
f 
 
 I 
 
 ;■ i i 
 
 I if' 
 
 b -U 
 
 
 :^i. 
 
 Mr 9 
 
 »J 
 
 214 
 
 TII1<: LAM) OI' THI' "\Ii:SKI":{i 
 
 remained solid, and we observed it, wondering. 
 Slowlv the couraire of the truth came to us, and 
 we reaHsed that whilst we stood, cold, weary, 
 ragged, and starving on this side, just beyond that 
 narrow strait was warmth, rest, and plenty. And 
 yet we did not move, for we saw that the river 
 was deep, and feared to find that we could not 
 cross. 
 
 F'ew i)eople who have not suffered it know what 
 it feels like to be hungry, really hungry, within 
 sight of tood. Perhaps it is better that they should 
 not know, for it is not a pleasant schooling. Some- 
 times when a crisis comes in our lives we watch 
 it quietly, as though we had already rehearsed the 
 complications and seen the issue. Hunger and 
 exhaustion had brought us low — how low we had 
 not understood ; and now at last, when our work 
 was done, and the end stood revealed before us. 
 our minds could not grasp the idea, and we only 
 muttered little banale ])hrases as we stared into the 
 darkness. 
 
 Round was the first to break the spell. We 
 knew that the name of the Hudson's Hay officer 
 in charo-e of the fort was Alexander. Our onlv 
 chance of supper lay in attracting his attention ; so 
 Round shouted, 'Ho. Alexander!' Then we all 
 shouted. An echo took up the word, and far away 
 across the lake we heard, ' Alexander ! Alexander ! ' 
 Then silence. Not a lis^ht showed from the fort. 
 
mmm^mmmt 
 
 mmmmmmm 
 
 Hr.\(ii:R AM) COLD 
 
 215 
 
 vonderinor. 
 ;o US, and 
 d, weary, 
 -'yond that 
 ity. And 
 the river 
 could not 
 
 now what 
 y, within 
 ey should 
 ^ Some- 
 ve watch 
 arsed the 
 iger and 
 ^ we had 
 Dur work 
 'eforc us, 
 we only 
 ' into the 
 
 ^11. We 
 y officer 
 )ur only 
 ition ; so 
 1 we all 
 far away 
 zander ! " 
 the fort. 
 
 Then again we shouted, 'Ho, Hudson's Bay!' 
 The echo answered mysteriously. ' Hay ! Bay ! ' 
 
 For a moment a sickening fear took hold of us 
 that Alexander was away, or the fort deserted. 
 So we shouted again and again, and I fired my 
 revolver repeatedly. Then we listened. There 
 was a sound of a creaking door and a muffled 
 ' Halloo ' reached our ears. This at least was no 
 echo. I fired my revolver into the air once more, 
 and again we heard the voice, ' Who are )ou .^ ' 
 Then Pollen: 'We are English gentlemen, come 
 across the mountains from Dunvegan, and we are 
 starving ; could you send a boat and fetch us 
 across } ' For a few moments we waited, and then 
 a canoe with two men in her came out of the dark- 
 ness. Allah rushed down to the shore, but we 
 could not allow Alexander's first impressions of the 
 ' English gentlemen ' to be quite so startling, so we 
 moved in front of him. Twenty paces from where 
 we stood the canoe halted, and again we were 
 questioned. Then she came to land. ' My name 
 is Alexander,' said one of the men, 'and this is 
 my brother.' We introduced ourselves, and asked 
 him if he would take us across in the canoe. He 
 seemed only half-awake, and did not ai)pear to 
 understand what we were, or where we had come 
 from, but I think that he was almost too drowsy to 
 be surprised at anything. He landed us upon the 
 beach, and we walked in silence towards the fort. 
 
 I 
 
 ,:-t', j_., 
 
 % w 
 
 i^ 
 
'^ [■ t 
 
 
 J t 1 
 
 I 
 1 
 
 I' 
 
 II 
 
 '! 
 
 I* 
 
 H 
 
 L 
 
 k 
 
 I 
 
 1» 
 
 IV^l' * 
 
 H 
 
 :*.' ' 
 
 2l6 
 
 THi: LAM) ()!• I IIM .MlSKl'Ci 
 
 The ground was l(jvcl, and here and there were 
 charred logs, the remnants of old camp-fires. 
 Alexander told us that we had better collect these 
 and make; our (ire at once, as there was no other 
 wood about the place and no room in the house. 
 We declared that we would do whatever suited him 
 best, but that what we wanted was footl ; and we 
 implored him not to keep us w^aiting. By this time 
 we had reached the fort. It was a small log cabin, 
 
 similar to those used by miners 
 all over Western America, but 
 more than usually squalid and 
 out of re[)air. I am bound to 
 say that I did not remark this 
 until after we had eaten. Alex- 
 ander made a fire in the sleeping- 
 room, and then had a good look 
 at us. Certainly our appearance 
 was strange. We were thin 
 beyond descri[)tion, our faces 
 pinched and hollow, our bodies emaciated and clothed 
 in rags, long, ill-kempt hair hung almost to our 
 shoulders, and the bones upon the backs of our hands 
 stood out sharp as knives. Pollen looked very 
 ghastly, with a shaggy beard and pinched cheeks. 1 
 found that I was no longer hungry, but had a curious 
 feeling of extreme emi)tiness. Whilst Alexander 
 was gone in search of supper we sat upon the floor 
 round the fire and talked of the past day ; we had 
 
 I'liI.l.liN l.doKl.l) \\.\<\ 
 
 l;ll.\^^•n.v ■ 
 
ni\GI-:R AM) COLD 
 
 217 
 
 ere were 
 
 .mp-fires. 
 jct these 
 no other 
 e house, 
 lited him 
 
 and we 
 this time 
 3g cabin, 
 y miners 
 rica, but 
 ah'd and 
 lound to 
 lark this 
 Alex- 
 ileeping'- 
 Dod look 
 Dearance 
 ire thin 
 ir faces 
 1 clothed 
 : to our 
 -ir hands 
 i^d very 
 ^eks. 1 
 
 curious 
 exander 
 he floor 
 we had 
 
 marched for nearly sixteen hours with the pack-train, 
 and now nearly three more without food, and this 
 seemed to delio^ht us childishly, so that we said it 
 over and over ayain, and boasted about it amongst 
 ourselves. It must be remembered in our favour 
 that we had had a very hard time : we had not tasted 
 food since the thin soup at breakfast ; for days we 
 had not seen veg;;etables, but had lived entirely 
 upon so much dried meat as a rigid economy 
 would permit ; and even before we killed the horse 
 we had worked hard for a long time on very short 
 commons, living principally on fried bread and occa- 
 sional beavers. And so perhaps it may not seem 
 strange that now, when the work was done, we were 
 not quite so reasonable as we might be. Alexander 
 now returned heavily laden with ship's biscuits, 
 canned beef, canned milk, a pot of jam, and some 
 coflee. We hung over the food and watched the 
 opening of the cans with delight. How good it 
 seemed to eat! Beef and biscuits disappearetl 
 rapidly. 'I'hen we held off a little, frightened lest 
 we might weaken ourselves by a too hasty meal ; but 
 we could not stop so soon, it seemed such a waste 
 to leave good food untouched, so we set to upon the 
 jam — and what a curious place in which to fintl 
 Cross and Blackwell's jam! Alexander produced 
 some rancid butter ; never did anything taste better. 
 At last we finished and sat down to smoke our pipes 
 and tell our adventures. We talked, and Alexander 
 
 , 4 
 
 I 31 
 
 ■ li 
 
 I ' w 
 
 ;ap 
 
 !! 
 
 i 
 
r*'!( 
 
 ,.' t 
 
 r ■ 1' 
 
 2l8 
 
 THIi LAM) 01" Till' ML SKI'G 
 
 iU 1 
 
 listtMied, lying back upon his blanket on the floor. 
 Once more we ran over the incidents of the last 
 two months, and told ajj^ain how the thought of 
 M'Leod's I'^ort had cheered us on many weary 
 marches ; and each time we spoke of it we realised 
 more and more that we had reached our goal, and 
 found a place Avhich seemed more precious than 
 home. Our host was a young man, and a cheerful 
 one, and soon there was no more talk of the fire 
 outside on the flat, but we were told to consider 
 the house our own, and to make ourselves com- 
 fortable as best we could. Alexander said that 
 he had been asleep when we began to shout, 
 and that, even when he understood that we 
 were white men who were speaking to him, he 
 could not realise what had happened. He saw 
 that we had no boats, and had not come by the 
 river — the only highway of the country ; but it 
 never struck him that we had come over the 
 mountains, for he had not been in the district 
 when Mr. Dawson came through fourteen years 
 before, and so had only heard faint rumours of the 
 possibility of a crossing. We sat round the bla/.ing 
 log-fire till late into the nii>ht, f Vuw too elated to 
 rest. It was arranged that Alexander should take 
 some Indians and go up the river to our camp on 
 the morrow. He said that he w^ould get the Indians 
 to pack the horses, and would bring our unfortunate 
 friends in camp back to the fort by water. It was 
 
 , i in 
 
■ 
 
 """""^"■'"■■"■■viivniiSiHiQKn 
 
 the floor. 
 r the last 
 loug^ht of 
 U' weary 
 J reaHsed 
 ^oal, and 
 OLis than 
 cheerful 
 
 the fire 
 consider 
 /es corn- 
 aid that 
 3 shout, 
 tiiat we 
 him, he 
 He saw 
 
 by the 
 ; but it 
 i^er the 
 
 district 
 n years 
 > of the 
 blazintr 
 ated to 
 Id take 
 imj) on 
 Indians 
 rtunate 
 It was 
 
 HU\GI:R AM) COLD 
 
 219 
 
 growincr late, so we turned into the warm dry 
 blankets, and, still trying to talk and smoke, dropped 
 off to sleep, whilst the firelight danced upon the 
 beams. But our rest was not unbroken ; ever)- few 
 minutes John got up and made himself a cup of 
 coffee, till it seemed impossible that he could hold 
 more, and we were obliged to remonstrate. At 
 last, as the first grey light of the morning showed 
 Iliint on the window-pane, we fell asleep, utterly 
 worn-out and exhausted. 
 
 JOHN .SAYS GUOlMIVi; 
 
 It 
 
 a 
 
 ^f 
 
 ■* 
 t 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 
m" 
 
 i 1 :i 
 
 
 ti »'; 
 
 UJ ' 
 
 If. 
 
 /! 
 
 
 C H A V T I-: R X 
 
 TlIK PORTA IRS AND SICCANEES 
 
 On the followiiiL;' inorniiin- Alexander went down 
 to our camp, taking an abundance of provisions 
 with liim for the rest of our company, and I belie\'e 
 that they fell upon them as voraciously as we had 
 done upon our arrival at the fort. At all events they 
 
 cme in about 
 midday with the 
 pack-train, and 
 then we all set 
 down to a seri- 
 ous meal. We 
 cooked bacon 
 and potatoes, 
 and ate our fill 
 in the usual and idiotic way in which half-starved 
 men always btihave. And so it hapi)ens that my 
 recollections of our daily life at M'^Leod are not very 
 distinct, but 1 remember spending- some days on my 
 back upon the grass, surrounded by the rest of the 
 party, also on their backs, and comparing the details 
 of my sufferings with those of my companions. 
 
 iiiirr NM.Koi) 
 
 ■J-JO 
 
B33^ 
 
 iiii': roRiAiRs .\\i) sicc.\\i:r:s 
 
 221 
 
 nt down 
 •ovisions 
 [ believe 
 
 we had 
 nts they 
 n about 
 with the 
 lin, and 
 .' all set 
 D a seri- 
 al. We 
 bacon 
 totatoes, 
 
 our fill 
 ■starved 
 :hat my 
 lot very 
 s on my 
 it of the 
 2 details 
 
 IS. 
 
 One day an old blind Indian and his wife came 
 up the lake in a canoe, and crept to us beguincr for 
 food, and sayin^ that they were starving;-. W'e were 
 naturally very sympathetic to all who were in this 
 condition, for we liad exijcrienced the trouble our- 
 selves, so we o-ave them food in abundance. The 
 wretched old man was evidently very much afraid 
 of his wife, and feared that she would steal his 
 portion, so he shielded his plate from her, and con- 
 stantly fm_o(;red the outlines of the meat to see that 
 none was missino". The)- we-re dressed in ragged 
 marmot robes, and were a miserable-looking- cou[)l(.'. 
 There can be but little comfort in old ai-e amon^r.st 
 a savage people, and in so barren a country it is a 
 wonder that any one attains to it. For once a man's 
 strength is gone he can no longer hunt, and so 
 must die like a beast. He may have been the 
 greatest hunter of his tribe, but when he becomes 
 weak there is no pity, and he must slowly starve: or 
 depend for his life on chance morsels which the 
 young men may throw to him. However, the 
 Company is very charitable, and feeds many of the 
 aged and infirm who have brought fur to them in 
 former days. As the old man, Xytsidone, was 
 blind, his wife had to do the work for both, but in 
 spite of her care for her husband, (juite unlike the 
 •old Dutch,' she not only 'jawed ' and 'made him 
 smart,' but sometimes emphasised the sting of her 
 tongue with the help of the canoe paddle. 
 
 1 « 
 
 4 
 
 I' 
 
 ' 
 
 i. If 
 II- 
 
 1 '■ ■ 
 
;'-' 
 
 1 (" 
 
 ^ 1( 
 
 
 l^ 
 
 
 % 
 
 '•Jt 
 
 ' > 
 
 
 ■f 
 
 i' ' 
 
 ■ij 
 
 u 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 1 "J 
 
 
 1 l^? 
 
 ' i 
 
 ' I / 
 
 Itl ' 
 
 )'il < ';( 
 
 P- 
 
 1», 
 
 
 i:i 
 
 If 
 
 ^1 
 
 )J ; i 
 
 1 1 
 
 222 
 
 Till': LAM) t)I- TIIIC MLSKICC. 
 
 I'hc weather was uann and the fort conifort- 
 al)lc, so that after a few dajs of pain wc beL;an 
 to rcjcovcr and to think about our future plans. 
 The expedition was practically over, for we had 
 crossed the mountains and passed throu^li our 
 huntinj^-i^roiuuls. It only remained for us now to 
 march out to the railway as (juickly as possible. 
 r>ut it was evident that neither John, Daukhan, 
 nor Allah would be able; to accompany us, for it was 
 already late in the year, and they must turn back 
 towards the I )unve<j^an district if they wished to 
 reach home ])efor(^ the comint^ of winlc:r. Of course 
 they could not cross the mountains a^^^ain, for this 
 would take them far too lonLT ; but thev mi<dit 
 builil a raft and lloat down the Parsnip and the 
 Peace. On the eastern side of the mountains the 
 Peac(; enters a canon which is absolutely impassable 
 in boats, and so they would hv forced to make a 
 twelve-mile portage and construct another raft on 
 the river l)elow. We had hoped that they would 
 be able to march some part of the journey towards 
 civilisation with us, antl then r(;turn to the river, 
 but we now saw that this was impossible, and 
 that we must travel without them. Even as it 
 was, we doubted if they would get home before the 
 ice began to run on the Peace, We could only 
 pay them their due, and get provisions for their 
 long journey. In addition to a full sup[)ly of 
 food, we presented John and Daukhan with a 
 
im 
 
 
 ]f 
 
 iiir: I'oRiAiks wi) si(c.\mi:s 
 
 223 
 
 :omfort- 
 
 .' lKL;an 
 
 J plans. 
 
 wc had 
 
 ijjjh our 
 
 now to 
 
 possible. 
 
 'aukhaii, 
 
 )r it was 
 
 ni back 
 
 ishcd to 
 
 f course 
 
 for this 
 
 y mii^ht 
 
 [lud th(; 
 
 ains tlu; 
 
 )assabk' 
 
 make a 
 
 aft on 
 
 wouUl 
 
 towards 
 
 river, 
 
 and 
 
 as it 
 
 "ore the 
 
 I only 
 
 r their 
 
 [)ly of 
 
 with a 
 
 couple of horses apiece in recoi^nition of their 
 services. Allah hail already received his hors(; in 
 
 l;Olil N I KAM^I V 
 
 |)ayment, and they would be; obliged to build 
 their raft of s^reat size to accommodate the five 
 
 .1' 
 
 ) 
 
 \\\ 
 
 \H 
 
mm^f^^ 
 
 ■^ 
 
 I*."' 
 
 i|'!;: 
 
 :i- ' 
 
 i: 
 
 I ; 
 
 V 
 
 I !) :^ 
 
 224 
 
 'illl'. LAM) ()!■ rill-: ML'SKI'C; 
 
 animals. Daukhan made us many speeches, and 
 thanked us in his most courtly manner, sayins^ that 
 as long as he lived he would never part with the 
 horses which we had y^iven him, but that he hoped 
 to live to see their children and children's children 
 grow up under his care. Vov my part, I thought 
 that the thanks should have been as much on our 
 side, for nothing could ever repay the untiring 
 labours and wonderful sagacity which had brought 
 us to the end of our journey, and through so in- 
 tricate a maze of swamps and mountains. And 
 then they went, and we were very sorry to see 
 the last of then-i, for more faithful men could 
 not be found than John Knot and Daukhan Tus- 
 torwits. Allah, the lieaver, who went with them, 
 was evidently no judge of horse-flesh, lov iie chose 
 for himself the worst and weakest horse in the 
 tr li'i. sayinij; that he was ' tall and frood-lookincr.' 
 When tliev were all gone we felt that the strongest 
 link with our wild life of uncertainty and adven- 
 ture had already been broken, and that we must 
 at once push for\\;u-d and complete our journey. 
 Our first move would be to the Hudson's Ba)- 
 tb;t at Stewart's Lake, about a hundred miles 
 away. From there we thought we could get 
 canoes and go down the Stewart, Nechacoo, and 
 Frazer rivers to Ouesnelle, from v'hich pkce we 
 meant to travel by coach on th(! Cariboo road to 
 Ashcroft. We had originally intended to go I'.j) 
 

 ■^ 
 
 ■VOWIi 
 
 THE PORTAIRS AND STCCAXEHS 
 
 225 
 
 eches, and 
 iayins^ that 
 •t with the 
 
 he hoped 
 I's children 
 
 I thought 
 ich on our 
 he untiring- 
 ad brought 
 3ugh so in- 
 ains. And 
 •rry to see 
 men could 
 ikhan Tus- 
 with them, 
 ur he chose 
 3rse in the 
 )d-looking.' 
 le strongest 
 and adven- 
 
 t Ave must 
 
 jr journey. 
 Idson's Ba\- 
 Id red miles 
 
 could get 
 Ihacoo, and 
 
 1 pk'ce we 
 
 loo road to 
 to go I'.p 
 
 
 the Crocked River to the Frazer, but this would 
 entail a long portage, and we heard that the river 
 was very low, so that a man who had travelled by 
 this route some time before had been oblioed to 
 construct dams in order to float his boat at all, and 
 so had taken some months over a few miles. There 
 was then nothing for it Ijut to go to Stewart's 
 l.ake instead of taking the shorter rout>- and from 
 there must travel some; 
 250 miles by water and a 
 like distance by road be- 
 fore reaching the railwa)'. 
 Alexander said that the 
 trail to Stewart's Lake was 
 open and the ground good, 
 and that we mioht march 
 fast ; but we were still 
 weak and did not relish 
 the idea, and were very 
 much pleased when he 
 voIimtec;red to accompany 
 
 us, brinuinij some horses of his own in order that we 
 mi<rht ride. As soon as we had <jot a sufficient 
 quantity of pro\ isions we left the fort, and iravell'; 1 
 gaily along the trail, driving the pack-hor.ses. We 
 were still very unwell, so that riding was by no means 
 a pleasure for the first thr(;e days, and the poor 
 Doctor suffered tortures, and l.)umi)ed breathless 
 upon an air-cushion. Hut after ;i while we rv.- 
 
 r 
 
 ON A licMII) 1 K.MI. 
 
 ■I 
 
m'i 
 
 I • 
 
 fife , 
 
 
 '1 ' 
 
 (■■ ■ 
 
 ' ' I 
 
 I; :l 
 
 I'i ■ !; 
 
 4 fU 
 
 'i ! 
 
 ^ ' . 
 
 226 
 
 rill' LAND OI- TIIF. MiUSi:i:(i 
 
 covered and beg^an to enjoy ourseTves. and aj)prc- 
 ciatc the firm orroLind and dry camping-jjlaccs. 
 
 The country was lovely, the trees were already 
 tinted by tlie autumn frosts, and we were really 
 sorry when we reached the like on the fifth day. 
 
 The Portair Indians, who live round its shores, 
 build houses and live principally by fishinj^. so that 
 Stewart's Lake is a small hamlet, and indeed looked 
 a town to us as we rode up. 
 
 The fort is large, and has many out-buildin<rs 
 and corrals by the water-side, where we unpacked 
 our animals, Mr. Murray, the officer in charcje, 
 was away in a schooner on the lake, but his wife 
 and friends welcomed us into the house with the 
 kindness we had learned to expect; and there we 
 lived for some days, and read up back numbers of 
 old illustrated papers, or lounged on the porch, 
 watching the storms upon the lovely lake. lUit on 
 the day of our departure; we hatl much to disturb 
 us, for we found, on getting our packs together, 
 that our smaller kodak was missing. It must have 
 dro[)ped off the pack upon the march, and might be 
 twenty miles away by the side of the trail. The 
 only thing to do was to offc;r a reward, aiul s(;nd 
 the nativ(;s out to s(;arch for it. We told Father 
 Morice of our difficult)-, and enlisted Iiis help, for 
 his inlliienc(! with the Indians is [)r()digious. I'"ather 
 Morice is \\\v. Catholic missionary, and we had 
 made his ac(iuaintance almost as soon as we 
 
 ' I ( 
 
■**',i^J;'>s^3v^rt»JitT<i«.,ir5*-ix*«-iw:-*™»^=*'*« 
 
 Till' I'ORTAIKS AM) STCCANKRS 
 
 227 
 
 nd a|)pr(;- 
 iccs. 
 
 re already 
 •ere really 
 fth day. 
 its shores, 
 ig, so that 
 eed looked 
 
 l-l)uildings 
 : unpacked 
 in charge, 
 lit his wife 
 e with the 
 d there we 
 [lumbers of 
 the porch, 
 l)iit on 
 to disturb 
 together, 
 must have 
 might be 
 ail.* The 
 and send 
 Id Father 
 s help, for 
 IS. I'ather 
 we had 
 )n as we 
 
 arrived, and thus came in contact with one of the 
 most remarkabU; men in North-\Vest(;rn America. 
 
 Pere Moric(; was, of course, a I'renchman, but 
 his Hnglish was irre[)r()achable. it is something of 
 a surprise to fmd a savant and a man of learning 
 working amongst the Indians in a lonely Northern 
 mission. l)Ut, judging by his congregation, it was 
 evident that his talents were not thrown away. 
 The Carrier Indians are 
 immeasurably superior to 
 their relations th(; Heavers. 
 They buikl logdiouses, and 
 many sjjcak I'Lnglish, and 
 read books and a nionthl)- 
 !'■.■■ .vv in the nati\'(; tongue;, 
 printed in the syllabary 
 whicli th(M*r [)ri(;st lias in- 
 vented for them. This is 
 one of th(i many extra- 
 ordinary achie\'ements of 
 
 this prince of missicjnaries, who not only is his 
 own editor, compositor, and printer, but has in- 
 ventctl a most inirenious s\llabar\', which is easiK 
 learnt — so that Indians wlio have no idci what 
 writing is, ha\e been known U) Karn to read and 
 write this language with perfect corrcclness after 
 two or three days' instruction. ( )f course, their 
 maimer of lir<' is not that of the civilised man., for 
 (heir employmeiu n-uiains unchanged, and they 
 
 ' AKiaiCK IMJIANS 
 
 
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 228 
 
 THI': LAND OI" Tlir: MrSKI'C. 
 
 still hunt and fish like other Indians; but they 
 iiave been given many of the advantages of civili- 
 sation, and none of its evils. 
 
 Pere Morice himself is the greatest authority 
 upon their history and customs, and has written 
 much concerning them. All that I shall say about 
 these people I learned from him, and much that is 
 written here is cjuoted from his writings. 
 
 It seems that the Portairshave a far keener desire 
 for civilisation and knowledge than the rest of the 
 Dene family. And thus, while they 
 received the missionaries and wel- 
 comed their teaching, many of the 
 other tribes refused to do so. When 
 first tliscovered these Indians were 
 much the same as their neighbours, 
 living ill t(;nts of skin, and dressing 
 in marmot and beaver robes. They 
 w(M-e not apparently a warlike people, 
 but occasionally the neighbouring tribes would fall 
 upon each other, or one family would wipe out 
 some long-standing feud. In such cases the men 
 went into battle in a kind of armour made of sticks 
 placed close together, or j)repared moose-hides, 
 and attacked their enemies with spears or Hint- 
 headed arrows. Metal-working was almost unknown 
 to them, but lhe\ j)rocur(Kl copper from the Coast 
 Indians, with which they made ornaments and the 
 small tweezers that the men carried, and used to 
 
 A I'AIK (II- 
 rWKIV.I'.KS 
 
'I 
 
 {'. 
 
 Till': I'ORTAIRS AM) SICCAXIU'S 
 
 229 
 
 i ; but they 
 Lies of civili- 
 
 st authority 
 has written 
 ill say about 
 nuch that is 
 
 eener desire 
 rest of the 
 , while they 
 ;s and ^\•el- 
 lany of the 
 so. When 
 idians were 
 neighbours, 
 nd dressing- 
 bes. They 
 •like people, 
 s would fall 
 d wipe out 
 es the men 
 ide of sticks 
 loose-hides, 
 irs or llint- 
 •st unknown 
 1 the Coast 
 Us and ihf 
 md used to 
 
 pluck with o-re;it care the few hairs from their chins, 
 accordinsr to their custom. 
 
 Pere IMorice mentions a legend about thib copper 
 which I think is worth repeating- : — 
 
 'Many years ago all the Indians conm-co;ated 
 at a certain point on the sea-coast around a tower- 
 like mountain of copper standing in the midst of 
 the water. Their object was to decide which tribe 
 should get possession of this mountain. They all 
 commenced to shout, and the mountain after a time 
 began to totter, so that the Kaidahs, who had big 
 heads and strong voices, caused it to fall on their 
 side. "And thus it was," say the Carriers, "that 
 those men own the copper mountain, and c\'\r 
 since we must get from them the metal when we 
 want to adorn our wives and daufrhters." ' 
 
 The Fortairs do not appear to have had any 
 distinct religion or form of worship, although they 
 feared a kind of impersonal Nature-god, who was 
 believe 1 to cause wind and snow, and to regulate the 
 movements of the heavenly bodies. They therefore 
 employed the medicine-man to propitiate this god 
 and his dependent spirits. The medicine-man was, 
 m consequence, a ))erson of great Importance in the 
 tribe, and it was believed that he could kill any one 
 who offended him by tlu; mere force of his will. 
 His aid was always called for in cases of sickness, 
 which they imagined were caused by some foreign 
 presence or materialised evil spirit not unlike the 
 
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 ft 
 
wrr 
 
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 i ■ 
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 it 1^1 
 
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 230 
 
 rill'. LAND ()!• I III': MISKI'.C 
 
 A i'i;i.iiisi'()i;ii 
 
 MM RnUi: 
 
 modern microbe of science. Maviiii;, through his 
 violent (exertions and loud cbantin^, worked him- 
 self into a iVen/y, ami almost into a trance, the 
 metlicine-man would commc;nce to suck 
 the alllicted part of the sick man, and 
 after a while; would produce from his 
 mouth, either a thorn, an insect, a toad, 
 or a small hlack stone ball. These he 
 vvouKl exhibit as tlu; cause; of the illness, 
 and after a few more passes and chant- 
 iiiij^s, the patiem, according- to the natives, im- 
 mediately recov(;red. In serious illness, when death 
 
 was likely to over- 
 take; the sick, the 
 m (; d i c i n e - m a n 
 would throw him- 
 self into a trance 
 and visit the other 
 world, begging the; 
 shade of the dyini;' 
 man to return to 
 his body. Some- 
 times the shade de- 
 clined, but often 
 the medicine-man 
 would awake, and, 
 takinn; the spirit in the [)alm of his hand, would restore 
 it to the head of the sick man, upon wliich he; im- 
 mediat{;ly recovered. Father Morice declared that 
 
 STONI-; SI'I.Ai; AND AUNoW lli:Ali.S 
 
 n 
 
rm* 
 
 iBH^I^B"!!" 
 
 i^^i^!^ 
 
 lirouoh Ills 
 orked hiin- 
 trancc, the 
 ICC to suck 
 V man, and 
 c. from liis 
 cct, a toad, 
 These; he 
 the ilhiess, 
 and chant- 
 itives, im- 
 vhen deatli 
 ly to over- 
 sick, the 
 ne -ma n 
 irow him- 
 > a trance 
 the other 
 -g.Li'ng the 
 the dyino- 
 return tc^ 
 Some- 
 shade de- 
 nit often 
 Heine-man 
 /ake, and, 
 lid restore 
 ich he im- 
 kired that 
 
 rill': I'oRi.MRS AM) siccam;i:s 231 
 
 many of the okler men had witnessed this perform- 
 ance, and had ^-reat faitli in the power of the 
 medicine-man. The Portairs believe in the immor- 
 tahty ol cue soul, but also that souls in times of 
 sickness may wander, even during the life of ii man. 
 When he is in a healthy state this soul-shade is in- 
 visible, but when iie falls ill the shade will wander, 
 and his friends must do their best to make it 
 return to his body. In order to accomplish this, 
 tliey will hang up the patient's moccasins stuffed 
 with feather-down. Should the feathers become 
 warm, it is a symptom that the wandering soul 
 is present, and with great care and silence they 
 put them on the feet of the sick man, being 
 careful not to let the shade escape out of the 
 shoe. 
 
 Before the Christian religion disturbed their 
 ancient customs the ideas of these Indians con- 
 cerning a future state were far from pleasant, for 
 they believed that dried toads would be their only 
 food. 1 quote the following myth from b'aiher 
 Morice's writings, as it will give some idea of the 
 religion and belief of the Portairs : — 
 
 'A long time ago two young men got lost in a 
 wood, and in the course of their wanderings came 
 upon a decayc;d and hollow tree which was lying 
 on the ground. Out of curiosity they crawlctl in 
 to see where it led, as only one end was visible. 
 They went for a long time on their han>ds and 
 
 4\ 
 
 
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 M 
 
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 232 
 
 I III'. Ly\Ni) or rill': miski.c, 
 
 kn(i(;.s in ;i dark sul)lf;rr;mcaii passajj^c;, till tin;)' 
 caiiK; to a |)la((: full (,\ snakes, loads, and li/ards. 
 They were terrified l)y this dreadhil |)lace, and 
 tried to L(() back, hut could not ; so they rushed 
 forward, and after a time tlie way hroadeiiecl and 
 it became hL;ht. Su(Kh,-nly they found themselves 
 on the toj) ol a hill, commanding the \iew of a 
 broad river, on iIk; other side of whii h stood a 
 
 \illaL;c. It consist(Ml 
 of many red and black 
 houses builtol boards, 
 where the shades 
 dwelt ; and they saw 
 the shades enjo)inL; 
 thems(;lves on a lawn. 
 I'herc: were immcMise 
 numbers of them, and 
 th(;y to(;k i^q-eat in- 
 terest in a i^ame, 
 shoutiiv'- and makin<»- 
 a deafenin,!^ noise. 
 Now, one of the 
 
 Dl-.AM M.( KI,.\< IC 
 
 I' 
 
 younsj^ men was very 
 much fri.L^ditcned b) all this, and hit! himself, but 
 the; other called out to the shades lo send some 
 out; with a canoe to fetch him across; but so 
 iiTf-al was tlu; tumult that they could not hear 
 hii'm. '\ftcr a while he ^^ot tired of shouting, and 
 chanced to yawn. One of the spirits heard the 
 
■^ 
 
 » 
 
 , till tll(.'y 
 
 nd li/ards. 
 
 )lac(;, and 
 
 (;y ruslicd 
 
 l<'ncd and 
 
 li<:iiis(:lv(.-.s 
 
 view of a 
 
 li stood ;i 
 
 consisted 
 
 and black 
 
 <j| l^jards, 
 
 shades 
 
 they saw 
 
 enjo) in_M 
 
 )n a lawn, 
 immense 
 hem, and 
 
 L^Tc-at m- 
 
 a .!-;anie, 
 1 makinor 
 J!; noise. 
 
 of the 
 was very 
 self, hut 
 nd some 
 
 hut so 
 lot hear 
 in^, and 
 
 I III'. I'OkTAIks AM) SIC(\.\i.:|.;s 233 
 
 movin-olhis jaws,' and sent some on<: across the 
 river to lUch him. liut Ik; had no soonc^r stepped 
 into the hlack canoe than iiis foot sank down as 
 thou-h the bottom of the boat was elastic. Then 
 the ferryman smelt him, and shouted that he did 
 not smell hre and had not been burnt.^^ Th<'refore 
 they s(u-xed him in their ll<:shl(.-ss arms, and tossed 
 I^'ini in the air like a ball, imtil nothin- remained 
 hut his empty skin. This they ihn.-w into the river, 
 when; a hu-<: hsh devoured it. All this time the 
 other youiiL; man had remained in hidin- ; but as 
 soon as he -oi u chance he hast(;ned back to the 
 dark passa-'e and passed throu-h the chamber of 
 snakes and toads without fear, for his sojourn in 
 the world of shades had made another man of him. 
 just as he was crawlin,<r out of the hollow tr(;(; he 
 heard a terrific v(;ice callino- "(irandson, orand- 
 son!" and soon he met a -iant, who adojitc'd him ; 
 and after livincr f,,,- a Ion- time with his n(;w orand- 
 (atlu.'r, and havino- many wonderful adventures, he 
 hnally went up to the moon, where he remains 
 visible to this day.' 
 
 t < 
 
 As bather M 
 
 oriC(; 
 
 I'oints out, the similarity be- 
 
 tween the .Siyx of the ancients and tl 
 Portair Indian 
 
 le nv(;r o 
 
 ftl 
 
 le 
 
 s IS verv curious. 
 
 rom the same 
 
 source I iia\c taken the I 
 
 oMowniij m\ til of 
 
 Tlir i'orl; 
 
 liis K'i'anI 
 
 llu 
 
 y call bacjv Ihr ilc|.:irlc | spiiiis i,, ,.,-irili 
 '' TIlO illlticiil (;ii>,linii 
 .■|iiilliiie. 
 
 yawnin^r as ominous, and hrJirM ijiai hy m, il,,ini. 
 
 1)1 cicniatKai iiiii.,t ac 
 
 i I 
 
 li 
 
 OHiipaiiy the lionoii 
 
.1 
 
 234 
 
 IIII' I.AM) ()!• I III'; MISKI'C. 
 
 ' T IF. (RKATION OK I.KillT. 
 
 it 
 
 ' A \o\v^ time a_L;() (hirkness rci^iuxl all u\ cr tlui 
 curtli, (;.\cc[)t in tlie U)d>;c of one old man, a noble, 
 who alone possessed lii^ht, fire;, and water. Now, 
 all men were very miserable, and continually sighed 
 after liyht, entreating- the old man to share it with 
 tluMii ; but he. would not. Finally, they Leathered 
 together, and (k;cided to _n"{;t what they wanted by 
 force, so they went with all the animals to the lodj^e 
 of the old man, and started a sonj^ which shoukl 
 win the h\;ht from him by continual chanting- antl 
 beatino- of the tom-tom. E:\d\ of the crowd had 
 his own sonL(, and the ^'ouul; fox ^Khaih-pa-lsLh 
 "he cries for daylis^dit ") chanted Kliaili, Kliaili, 
 Kliaili, expcctint^ to ^ct the light ; but still the old 
 man was inflexible. However, the assembly pleaded 
 for light so often that, after a while, it began to steal 
 slowly up the heavens, as it now does every morn- 
 ing. Then the old man shouted and it disap[)cared 
 again. Yet the young fox would not tire of repeat- 
 ing his chant, and both men and animals vied with 
 one another in turbulent singing, hoping to weary 
 the old man. And now again the light began to 
 show upon the horizon, and the old man got con- 
 fused, and exclaimed, "Let there be light!" and 
 immediately there was light ; and so it has been to 
 this day.' 
 
 i 1 ' ;"! 
 
I III' I'ORTAIKS AXI) SICCAM-ICS 235 
 
 I over the 
 1, a noble, 
 ^r. Now, 
 lily sighed 
 ire it with 
 
 ,!4atliered 
 ^'anted by 
 the l()d_L;e 
 :h should 
 itiiiL;- and 
 'owd had 
 ih-pa-iso, 
 ', K/iai/i, 
 
 II the old 
 { pleaded 
 n to steal 
 ry morn- 
 ai)[)cared 
 if repeat- 
 aed with 
 to weary 
 )eoan to 
 i,^ot con- 
 t!" and 
 
 i been to 
 
 ' TIIK CkKATION OF KIRK.' 
 
 ' Hitherio tlK-re had i)een no fn-c. and all were 
 iK-numbed with the cold, except tlu; same old man, 
 who had (Ire in his lodoe, which he jealously -uarded.' 
 An-ain they wished to have fire, as they had already 
 .L;ot th(^ li^hl ; but they decided that they must -ain 
 it by stealth. And so they en.<,ra.<rcd the services 
 <)t a yearling- cariboo and of a musk-rat. I favinn- 
 made for the former a ceremonial head-dress (} 
 resinous pine shavinos, and presented the latter 
 with a ceremonial apron of marmot 
 skin, they entered the old man's lodge 
 and sang. The cariboo danced and 
 the musk-rat sangO.^ Skcltc.^ The 
 cariboo swung his head to right and 
 left as he dancc;d, hoping to catch 
 some of the fire with his head-dress. 
 But whenever the lire appeared the 
 old man extinguished it. At last, however, the 
 musk-rat carried a live coal through a burrow in 
 the ground and set fire to the forest. And thus 
 men gained fire.' 
 
 I he creation of water was somewhat different. 
 The spirit, Ivstas, changed himself into a pine 
 needle, which the daughter of the old man, who 
 alone possessed water, drank by accident. Not 
 
 ( I1N.( (i||\ 
 
 rii'i'; 
 
 'f 
 
 % 
 
 It is curious tliat I 
 
 go to prove that the legcn 
 
 lis word is uuinlelligible to the I'ortairs, which wouk 
 
 native to tiie nci 
 
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 loiiLi^ afterwards she had a son, who was Estas, 
 though she did not know it. The child grew at 
 a great pace, and as soon as he was able to walk 
 commenced to move the vessel in which his grand- 
 father kept the water. At last, when he was a 
 grown man, he rushed out of the lodge with the 
 water and gave it to men, sprinkling it over the 
 earth, and making lakes, rivers, and seas. 
 
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MOUTH. i\ 
 
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 C H A P T !• R X I 
 
 DOWN I'HE RAPIDS AND AWAY 
 
 Wk had now been at Stewart's Lake for several 
 clays, and, ^vith the help of the priest and our 
 friends at the fort, had procured the services of 
 four Indians, who would take us and our belongincrs 
 down to Ouesnelle in two canoes. Alexander had 
 already returned to Fort M^Leod. and we had got 
 rid of our faithful pack-train. The search for the 
 smaller kodak had proved useless, but we felt that 
 we could not afford to waste any more time, ami 
 so were forced to go without it.' 
 
 All the canoes on the lake are 'dug-o-it.' and 
 we found two of this variety waiting for us on 
 the morning of our departure. We loaded in our 
 baggage and shoved off from the shore, with an 
 Indian in the bow and another in the stern. Ramsey 
 and the Doctor were in the smaller boat with two 
 
 ' This kodak was f.miul l,y the natives s.unc days afu-r .iiir (IciKutiire aiul 
 was kept at Stewart's Lake until the following spiini,'. when it went ,iowi, the 
 r.ver to (,)uesnelle, and so out to tlie railway. Thus, heM.lcs being constantly 
 wet upon the hack of a i)ackliorse f,,r months on the expedition itself, it 
 travelle.l nearly two hundred miles in canoes in charge of Indians, nearly 
 three hundred miles on a stage-coach, and fnially from Aslicroft to I.onilon 
 by tram and ocean. Many of the illustrations in this l.nrL- were taken with 
 this camera. 
 
 237 
 
 III 
 

 238 
 
 Tin- T,A\I) ()!• Tin- Ml'SKI'G 
 
 
 
 Indians; whilst Round, Pollen, and I took the 
 larger boat with the other pair of boatmen.' 
 
 Thus we started away, waving our adieus to our 
 friends on the shore, who had entertained us so 
 well. After paddling a few miles we came to the 
 Stewart River, and passed many native fishint-traps 
 and drying-stages, where the crows sat in hundreds. 
 
 ON illi; l-KA/.KU IN A l)L(i-(iLT 
 
 Then we went on down the stream. Now and 
 again we came to small rapids — a foretaste of the 
 great cascades ahead ; in such places we could feel 
 the pull of the water as it rushed ever more swiftly 
 towards the narrow passage. Then there would 
 be a soft gliding movement, and then the crest of 
 
 ' The l'int:\ii- liulians originally used only llic liiicli-hark canoe ; Init some 
 sixty years n_t;o a party of Irocpiois Indians came into their country with ' diit,'- 
 ouis,' and so ihe l.'orlairs killed them, and look their boats as niotlels. 
 
 
 'VU. 
 
i^^Vi 
 
 took the 
 ;n.> 
 
 ieus to our 
 ined us so 
 inie to the 
 ihing-traps 
 hundreds. 
 
 Now and 
 3te of the 
 could feel 
 re swiftly 
 re would 
 2 crest of 
 
 lie ; hut sdim; 
 try with 'diit,'- 
 lodels. 
 
 nowx Tin.: rapids and away 239 
 
 a wave would sweep over the side of the canoe 
 and drench us to the skin, whilst the little boat 
 leaped and twisted amon.crst the rocks and currents. 
 In this way we travelled many miles, sometimes 
 in deep, still water, where the boat ran easy, and 
 the Indians would sway in time, and chant their 
 boatinn-sono-. or stop rowino-, and fire wildly at a 
 flock of o-eese, or at a coyote or fisher on the bank. 
 They never hit anythin- for an Indian cannot shoot 
 in company ; he must be alone to kill c^ramc ; but 
 they were very cntertainingr, and spoke a little 
 En_L;;-lish. 
 
 In camp at ni.crht they would chant their prayers 
 until the small hours of the morning very melodi- 
 ously. On the second day we joined the Nechaco 
 River, and now the rapids became more serious. 
 Many times we came to eight or ten miles of fast 
 water, where the canoe would race by the bank 
 at an extraordinary pace. Large boulders blocked 
 the river in these places, against which the water 
 beat and swirled. If a canoe attempted to pass 
 one of these at a short distance, the wash would 
 probably overturn it, so that one has to run the 
 boat directly at the rock, and allow the water to 
 deflect the bow just before the canoe strikes. As 
 may be imagined, all this is most exciting, and now 
 and then we had some very narrow escapes. Of 
 course, if once the boat capsized, a man would stand 
 no chance in this kind of rapid water. 
 
 1:1 
 
 r.i. 
 
" ^,t 
 
 \l 
 
 < ■ 1 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 ,■ ; 
 
 il. 
 
 I 
 
 240 
 
 Tin: LAND OI- TIIIv MlSKI-d 
 
 We passed tlic I'ort George Canon in safety, and 
 arrived about nii^lufall at the fort itself on the 
 Frazer River, where we slept. The Hudson's Bay 
 Company's officer in change proved to be a most 
 delightful man, and told us many stories of his 
 adventures in the country, and Indian tales that he 
 had heard. 
 
 Some years before, a party of Indians, who 
 were huntin*' in the bush in the Fort (ieorue 
 
 NKAKI.Y A Mll.l'. IIKOAD 
 
 district, ran short of food. For many days they 
 starved, until their reason left them. At last 
 another Indian came across them, and found them 
 pickin*;' the bones of one of their comrades. When 
 he approached the camp they fired upon him, so 
 he went away and came back some days later with 
 a j^arty. On returning- to the camp, however, they 
 found that the wretched men had decided to kill 
 another of their number, but had fallen out as to 
 the choice, and by the time th(Mr rescuers arrived 
 
safety, and 
 icif on the 
 idson's liay 
 
 be a most 
 •rics of his 
 lies that he 
 
 dians, who 
 jrt (ieoi'Lie 
 
 ^^ 
 
 T 
 
 days they 
 At last 
 found them 
 es. When 
 on him, so 
 'y later with 
 vever, the)' 
 ded to kill 
 I out as to 
 ers arrived 
 
 DOWN nUl RAPIDS AND AWA^' 
 
 241 
 
 they were all dead, and the wolves and coyotes had 
 devoured the .[.Greater part of their bodies. 
 
 On the morning of our departure from the fort 
 we found our canoe men in high spirits, for they 
 had been gambling the greater part of the night, 
 and had won heavily. The unfortunate natives of 
 the place came down to see us off. and told sadly 
 how one had lost a fiddle, another a shirt, another 
 a frying-pan, and so on. Towards afternoon we 
 
 'THK KIVKR OKOPPF-D OUT OK SIGHT OVKR A KAI.I, ' 
 
 reached the great Cottonwood Canon, and halted 
 by the bank to inspect it. I have passed over the 
 details of the shooting of the Fort George Rapids, 
 but the Cottonwood made so deep an impression on 
 me that I must attempt to describe it. 
 
 To begin with, the Frazer River, which is in 
 many places nearly a mile broad, narrows as one 
 approaches the rapids. Far ahead you can hear a 
 low muffled roar, and already the water beeins to 
 
 V 
 
 I , 
 
.'• !• 
 
 242 
 
 Till- LAND Ol" Till' Ml'SKI-Ci 
 
 m:* > 
 
 )'v 
 
 . ' I 1 
 
 ■1 > * 
 
 pull at the canoe. It seems as thou<jjh the water 
 itself had become thicker and denser. This is one's 
 first sensation. As you approach, the roar becomes 
 louder and more ominous, and it seems as though 
 the river dropped out of slight over a fall. Now 
 and again you can see white breakers surgini,^ for a 
 mOiUent above this miniature horizon. Meanwhile 
 the stream runs faster and faster, but you paddle to 
 the shore and get out upon the rocks. Now comes 
 the most unpleasant time of all, for there is no 
 action or movement to distract your thoughts, and 
 the more you look at the rushing water the less you 
 like it. Below you the river dashes madly between 
 high walls of rock, humming and roaring as the 
 immense volume crushes into the narrow space. We 
 stood and watched it, planning out our road ; how 
 we would go the right here and the left there, and 
 where we would pass the high rock which stood in 
 the middle of the passage. On the farther shore 
 were two wooden crosses which the pious natives 
 had 'greeted to some unfortunates who had been 
 drowned in the rapid. Our head canoe-man cut 
 some tobacco from a plug, whilst his hand shook 
 with excitement. He had a little English, but his 
 remarks were not cheerful. ' Damn bad caiion,' 
 he would say. ' awful bad ' ; ' Drown 'em all-the- 
 time ; yes, Sywash drown 'em, six white men, drown 
 'em, — awful bad, — 'fraid I lose de whole damn lot 
 of you.' Then we returned to the canoes and took 
 
DOWN TIIIC RAPIDS AM) \\\ A\ 
 
 243 
 
 the water 
 Ill's is one's 
 ar becomes 
 
 as thout^h 
 fall. Now 
 'gin.L,^ for a 
 Meanwhile 
 1 paddle to 
 Jovv comes 
 lere is no 
 Li<,^hts, and 
 le less you 
 y between 
 ng as the 
 pace. We 
 oad ; how 
 there, and 
 li stood in 
 her shore 
 IS natives 
 had been 
 i-man cut 
 nd shook 
 li, but his 
 d caiion,' 
 n all-the- 
 2n, drown 
 damn lot 
 and took 
 
 our places, stowing our baggage as low as we could 
 in the boat ; our steersman stood in the stern, and 
 we all paddled out into the stream. The first rule 
 in shooting rapids is always to keep the canoe 
 movmg faster than the water, otherwise you can 
 get no steerage way and will soon be swamped, 
 therefore we paddled forward to the white line of 
 spray as fast as we could. Suddenly the canoe 
 shot away down the stream as it touched the head 
 of the rapid, and in a moment we were tearing 
 along in the roar of the waters. The steersman, 
 standing up, threw himself from side to side and 
 strained on his paddle, whilst the boat leaped to 
 right and left as the currents altered. Never have 
 I seen anything so wildly exciting ; we toiled and 
 struggled, bent over our paddles whilst the waters 
 seemed to leap and yell, and the steersman shouted 
 his orders between his gasps for breath. The rocks 
 flew past us and the water eddied back from the 
 cliffs, so that we were thrown half-across the river 
 at every turn. Then slowly the roar grew less, 
 and after a while we came to a sort of whirlpool 
 where the water slung round in still oily curls, and 
 sucked in the middle like a half-emptied basin. 
 Here and there the current ran swiftly across the 
 bed of the river from shore to shore, and even met 
 us as we came down the stream. In some places 
 the river was many feet higher than in others, and 
 so, silent and treacherous, the rapids at last calmed 
 
 ii 
 
 fi'i 
 
IH 
 
 "11 
 
 
 Hi . 1 
 
 ' li 
 
 a ' 
 
 
 I ! 
 
 
 i 
 
 (! 
 
 
 I.! V 
 
 244 
 
 Till- LAM) ()!■ I HI- MISKI-G 
 
 down, and we lloatcd in smooth water some miles 
 IjcIow. The Indians launched th'j short lauj^h 
 which they always indiiij^c in after danijer, and 
 then we rested from paddling and watched the 
 other boat jiitching and struggling in the foam 
 behind us. 
 
 lielow the rapid the river ran sluggishly, but here 
 and there large boulders lay just beneath the water, 
 and the stream rippled over them with a quiet 
 
 'SMOOTH WATER SOMK MII.KS HIXOW 
 
 £1' 
 
 
 ► I 
 
 ;» 
 
 ♦ In 
 
 splash. That night we camped near the house of 
 a Chinaman, built after the manner of his country, 
 and indeed we saw many of these people upon the 
 river-bank digging for gold. A white man can 
 hardly make a living from the gold in this part of 
 the Frazer. but a Chinaman, who has few wants, 
 lives cheap and makes money. As we passed these 
 industrious people our boatman yelled out choice 
 and entertaining insults both in English and in 
 their own tongue. All the next day we paddled 
 
'^<i^ 
 
 DOWN Till': KAI'IDS AND AWAV 
 
 245 
 
 lOmc miles 
 lort lauLjh 
 Linger, and 
 Itched the 
 the foam 
 
 y, but here 
 the water, 
 h a quiet 
 
 ■ 
 
 ^9ht« ■• 
 
 ^ I 
 
 house of 
 3 country, 
 upon the 
 man can 
 is part of 
 vv wants, 
 ised these 
 Jt choice 
 1 and in 
 
 paddled 
 
 
 forward |)l(;asantly down the great river, whilst the 
 loons cried on the hank, and hawks and such like 
 birds hung JuVli ovcrheatl. Night came, but we 
 were anxious to reach Ouesnclle, and did not camp, 
 but went on in the darkness. We could hardly see 
 the other boat, much less the rocks in the river, so 
 we would backwater and listen for the rush of the 
 stream over a rock and then shoot forward a'-'ain 
 into the stillness. At last we saw a few IJ^Iits 
 ahead, and came down the river singing into tho 
 little village of Ouesnelle. 
 
 Quesnelle is the wreck of a once prosperous 
 mining cur 4'. and is sufficiently 
 desclnte. We put up at the hotel 
 and sat in the bar-room, very 
 ragged-looking specimens of hu- 
 manity, as the new clerk just ou. 
 from London seemed to think, for 
 he took pleasure in staring at us, and then caress- 
 ing his own collar-button with his fingers or looking 
 at his irreproachable cuffs. Quesnelle received us 
 kindly, as every one else had done in this land of 
 hospitality, and with the assistance of Mr. Mac- 
 naughton the Hudson's Bay Company officer, we 
 soon had a wagon and started on our long drive 
 to the railway. The old Cariboo road was once 
 famous as the great gold-carrying highway of the 
 country, and is marked in many places with white 
 stones, where some unfortunate had been ' held up ' 
 
 
 liONK MINNOW 
 
 '/•M 
 
246 
 
 Till' LAM) ()!■ THl- MlSKIXi 
 
 I, ; 
 
 M 
 
 'H ' 
 
 ' )\) 
 
 ;■ i;i 
 
 lli 
 
 and shot in the old troublous times. Hut all that is far 
 away now, and tiie land is settled with ranchers and 
 farmers. We pitched and heaved over our two 
 hundred and fifty miles' drive after the usual manner 
 of a Western staqe, tearinj^ down hills and round 
 precipitous corners, or crawling' up steep 
 inclines at a foot-pace. Once we met 
 the weekly stage, and noticed the won- 
 derful skill of its driver, tested whilst he 
 started a bucking team at a gallop with 
 a wheeler's leg entangled with the pole. 
 But beyond this nothing remarkable 
 occurred. On the hills above Ash- 
 croft we saw the faint white smoke of 
 the train, and then we really knew 
 that our expedition was over and gone. 
 Coming into the little town we met 
 many Chilkotin Indians dressed in 
 brightly coloured clothes, who smiled 
 upon us and said 'Clehya' in a very 
 friendly way. It seems that there 
 was once a Hudson's Bay C()mj)any 
 officer called Clark, and men would 
 come to his place and say, ' Clark, how are 
 you .-^ ' This the Indians pronounced 'Clehya,' 
 which answers to the Iinglish ' Ciood-morning,' 
 and means about as much. These Chilkotins wer(.' 
 coming into the town to a fair, and we found 
 
 bl'KAK IIV.M) 
 
DOWN rili': R AI'IDS AND AWAV 247 
 
 Ashcroft decked in her Sunday best. Mr. Foster 
 the principal citizen, took charge of us. and tiirouc^h' 
 his knulness we were able to leave by train tli^at 
 night. After dinner ue -athered on the plat- 
 form of the little station and talked. Ramsey 
 and Round were ooino- out to the coast, whilst 
 Pollen and I w. ,Id take the train east. There 
 was so much to be said, that we said nothin^r. h 
 did not seem possible that it was all over, and 
 that henceforth Nve should be obhVed to sleep in 
 houses and conform to the customs of civilisation 
 bor months we had talked of Indians, bears, 
 rapids, horses, weather, and the chances of food.' 
 until we had made a world for ourselves. Now 
 ue beo-an to realise that all this must 1,^0. and 
 was of no account ; that no one would care about 
 our topics of conversation, and that we should 
 talk to ears that did not understand our meanim.. 
 Then the train came in. and we separated without 
 many words, and the expedition was over. And 
 we returned to civilisation, and were bored or 
 amused, as it mioht chance, and ate and lived 
 as others do ; and at first it was novel, and we 
 enjoyed it. 
 
 Civilisation has many tliin<,rs to offer— comforts, 
 knowledge, pleasures. -but when one has fc-It the' 
 joy of the wilds, one knows what life is. and what 
 it is to live. Cold and rain, hunger and storm, we 
 
 !.l 
 
k t 
 
 .' .1 
 
 248 
 
 TUK LAND OF Till-: MUSKEG 
 
 had endured, and we knew that they were not 
 pleasant ; but they pass, and this knowledge re- 
 mains unchanged in the wilderness — That it is 
 good to be alive and free. 
 
 1 ; I 
 
 .i ' 
 
 hi 
 
 •| 
 
 TUK END 
 
 I, vi 
 
 Printed by T. ami A. Consiaiue. Printers to Her Majesty 
 at tile ICilinliiirgli Urnversity Press 
 
Cclcjianbic B^&l■c38, 
 
 Suiilucks, l.oiiilun. 
 
 il REU-ORI) SfKRET, W.C. 
 Muixh iSgj 
 
 A LIST OF 
 
 Mr WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S 
 
 ^i: 
 
 P 
 
 UBLICATIONS 
 
 Th, fl, 
 
 'C-.j iiiciil'.nie,/ in 'his List enn 
 
 bt ohiiuiu.i 10 iirilcr hy any Hook- 
 itller if not in stixk, 
 by thf f'ubiii/i, 
 
 or Willie sent 
 ey on >t<eift of tht 
 
 fnKiihed pri^e anJ ('O.ta^t. 
 
 \& 
 
3n^c^: of But bore. 
 
 II ! 
 
 !.il|'!' 
 
 , ! ' 
 
 it '■■' 
 
 
 I'ARR 
 
 PAGF 
 
 TAI-.V 
 
 Alctanrlcr 
 
 . 22 ' Grav (Maxwell) 
 
 . 17 : Oliphant . 
 
 |0 
 
 Anstey 
 
 . 10 Gririlths . 
 
 . 14 1 Onida 
 
 17 
 
 Arbuthnot 
 
 : 4 Hall . . . 
 
 1 
 
 
 Atherton , 
 
 . 14 ! I'alacio.Valdi's . 
 
 21 
 
 
 Hanin 
 
 . 15! I'earce 
 
 iS 
 
 Badcieley . 
 
 . S, 14 ' Harland . . 
 
 '16, 24 U'TT"'* 
 
 . 24 Rendered . 
 
 16 
 
 Balestier . 
 
 • '^ 
 
 fennell 
 
 9 
 
 Barrett 
 
 1^ 2T H.iu]>tn)ann 
 
 . I-! 
 
 Phelps 
 
 23 
 
 Battershall 
 
 ^ ' ,1 Heine 
 
 7. S, 
 
 Philips . 
 
 24 
 
 Kelirs 
 
 _ Htnilerson 
 
 . 24 1 
 
 l^inero . • 
 
 i.i 
 
 r.endall . 
 
 ,. Hens-^ev . 
 
 20, 21 !l ";'','-■"■■ : 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 I'ngh 
 
 IC 
 
 Bjijriison . 
 Bovven , . 
 Boyesen . 
 Briscoe 
 Brown 
 
 • '^ 
 
 , . , 
 
 
 ,, , Hdiilsworlh 
 \ g Howard . 
 
 ,^ . H ughes . 
 \ ,2 Hun.;crford 
 
 to 
 . 11 ' 
 
 . J5 ' 
 
 iS, ... ' 
 
 Kaunond . 
 Kawnsley . • 
 Kenthrandt • 
 Kenan 
 Richter . 
 Kiddell . 
 
 '9 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 Brown and Griffit 
 
 is'. 14 i Hyne 
 
 . u; 
 
 10 
 23 
 
 Buchanan. 9, 13,23.24' jbsen 
 
 • '3! 
 
 Ki'.'es 
 
 Butler 
 
 ■ '' j Ingersoll . 
 
 . 12' 
 
 Koberts (\. von) 
 
 21 
 
 
 Irving , , 
 
 • '3 
 
 Roberts (C. G. D.) 
 
 U 
 
 Caine (Hall, 12, 17, 22 
 
 
 Robinson . 
 
 if) 
 
 Caine(K.). 
 
 . 14 J.eger 
 
 • 7I 
 
 Salritsburv 
 
 
 Cambridge 
 
 ■ 22 ,. 
 
 
 5 
 
 Chester . 
 
 . 10 ■ ^t-'i-y 
 
 1 1 
 
 Salaman (J. S.) 
 
 ') 
 
 Clarke . . 
 
 j^ KeelniL; 
 
 • '7 
 
 Salanian { NL C.) 
 
 10 
 
 Coltnore . 
 
 2-^ K'-nnedy , 
 
 • 2,1 
 
 .Sareey 
 
 7 
 
 Colomb 
 
 (J Kiinb.di 
 
 • • 'Jl 
 
 Scidniore . 
 
 12 
 
 Compayre 
 
 ^- Kij)ling 
 
 . 18 
 
 ScuiJarnore 
 Serao 
 
 1) 
 
 Copp<?e 
 
 . 10 
 
 21 
 
 Couperns . 
 
 21 Kras/e\vski 
 
 . 21 
 
 Sergeant . 
 
 2.! 
 
 Crack-nnthorpe . 
 
 24 Kroeker . 
 
 . '4 
 
 Sl..el . 
 Mevenson, • 
 
 '7 
 
 17 
 
 Davidson . 
 
 ,j l.jiidor 
 
 • 5 
 
 Street 
 
 24 
 
 Dawson 
 
 [ ,^ Le Canm . 
 
 • l\ 
 
 T.idcma . 
 Tallentyre • 
 
 
 De Goncoiirt . 
 
 g L'.e (Vernon) 
 
 . iS' 
 
 '9 
 
 De Joinville 
 
 (3 I.eland 
 
 . 8! 
 
 . 10 
 
 De Quincey 
 
 .* 8 '■i'^ • 
 
 . 21 
 
 '^.l^lna . . 
 Thompson 
 
 ?2 
 
 Dixon . • 
 
 ,- I.inton 
 
 . I'' 
 
 12 
 
 Dowson 
 
 ; ,; Locke . 
 
 • "7 
 
 'Thurston . 
 'Tuelnick . 
 
 M 
 
 
 . Uowe 
 
 7, 9 
 
 Id 
 
 Eeden 
 
 ,, 1 Lowry 
 
 . 24 
 
 Tolstoy . 7, 10, 1 
 
 3. 21 
 
 Ellwanper. 
 
 I, , Lynch 
 
 . .22 1 ree . • 
 j 'rnrgenev . 
 
 • '3 
 
 Ely . . . 
 
 • 9 
 
 Ma.^rtens . 
 
 . 20 
 
 • f 3 1 Valera . 
 
 
 
 Macnab . 
 
 " Maeterlinck 
 
 ■ \l .Malot . 
 
 • " .Masv.n . 
 
 • 9 .Maude . 
 
 ; ^^ Man,.a..ant 
 Maiinre . 
 ^ .Merrun.in . 
 
 • 3 .Mi^^^h^-l . 
 
 . 21 
 
 Farrar 
 Fitch 
 FleminR . 
 
 Forbes * • 
 FolherRill . 
 Franzos 
 Frederic . 
 
 : : ;'3 vazoff . . 
 
 • "■' Wagner . 
 
 6 W^ili^zewski 
 
 • 9 Wanl 
 
 • 21 W.mlen . 
 
 • " Waugh . 
 
 . 21 
 
 • 9 
 6 
 
 • 23 
 ■ 24 
 
 . 8 
 
 Furtwangler . 
 
 • * I '-> - - - • 
 4 
 
 W i-uemeyer 
 West 
 
 . 12 
 • '5 
 
 
 Milford . 
 
 22 
 
 Whistler . 
 
 II 
 
 Garmo 
 
 • '5 Monk 
 
 . 1 1 ) 
 
 Whue 
 
 • 23 
 12 
 
 Garner 
 
 • 91 .Moore 
 
 • '7 
 
 Whitman . 
 
 Gaulot 
 
 7 Murray 
 
 • 9 
 
 W.lli.iins . 
 
 1 1 
 
 Gilchrist . 
 
 . 18! _ 
 
 
 Wood 
 
 . iB 
 
 GontcharolT 
 
 . 21 Nordau , 
 
 5 
 
 Gore 
 
 14 ' Norris 
 
 . It 
 
 ZangwiU . 10, 
 
 6, i3 
 
 Gosse . 10, 1 
 
 3. "4. ">, 
 
 
 Zola . 
 
 I, 24 
 
 Grand 
 
 . 17 1 Ogilvie . 
 
 ■ <3 
 
 Z Z. . . 
 
 . 16 
 
 I: ^ ■ 
 
 M I 
 
■MM 
 
 ■■■■ 
 
 ^^^- ^VILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST. • 
 
 MASTERPIECES OF GREEK 
 SCULPTURE. 
 
 A SERIES OF ESSAYS ON THE HISTORY OF ART. 
 
 BY ADOLF FURTWANGLER. 
 
 Authorised Transhition. Edited by EuGf:NiE Sf.„t.f.rs. 
 
 With 19 full -page an.l 200 text Illustrations.. In One Volume. 
 
 4to, cloth, £^ 3s. net. 
 
 •«• Also an Mi/!o„ dr luxe nn Japanese vrlhim, limited to w 
 numbered copies. In Two Volume., price ^,0 ros. net. 
 
 The Tr/HES.-"ln very m.nny w.ivs the tr.inslaiion is an im- 
 provement o„ the original. We sincerelv hope it will be read by 
 English students in the Universities and elsewhere." ^ 
 
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 archeology, but art.sts, and collectors of choice books will revel hi 
 this sumptuous volume. The fine series of masterpieces of Greek 
 tn'^lurZJ'"'^ faultlessly reproduced is unequaired, whether In 
 
 The^l I'trT"'^"""" r '" P"^^,*^""" "f 'he mechanical process. 
 Ihe Illustrations .are, almost without exception, photographically 
 
 cS ",n? ^'T ""; ^'"'"f themselves (^uher' [he origma o^ 
 casts), and we thus obtain the maximum of exact fidelity. 
 
 .'! ^"' "^|s is much more than a hook of beautiful picture •: it is a 
 critical study ,>f the chief schools of Greek sculpture- in its highest 
 development by a scholar of acknowledged authority. No more 
 suggestive or. to students, fascinating essays on Greek art have 
 appeared for m..ny years ; nothing so comprehensive and at ?he 
 saine time so stnctly./f../.Whas been achieved since the days of 
 SoM'r"'°-r' '""'! ^^- ^- ^'""'^^' though it is obvious ^that 
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 Urunn no such minute critical study would have been possible. 
 
 ori'Ii^n^nfr ^"^''' "!,'''•''" '%'"'^^«'-y ^^^y a real improvement upon the 
 original German edition of a year or two as^^o. She has rea rai,ge<l 
 the materials, and thus achiced a lucidity and continuity of ar -u- 
 which were much less conspicuous in the German." 
 
 The DAILY CHRONICLE.-" Th, fame of these masterly 
 essays has grown in Germany since their first appearance to such I 
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 to be a paramount authority in their own sphere." 
 
.! 
 
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 'I I- 
 
 4 MR. WILLIAM IIEINEMANN'S LIST. 
 
 REMBRANDT: 
 
 SEVENTEEN OF HIS MASTERPIECES 
 
 FROM THE COLLECTION OF HIS PICTURES IN THE 
 
 CASSEL GALLERY. 
 
 Reproduced in Photogravure by tlie Ficrlin Photographic Company. 
 
 With an Kssav 
 
 By FREDERICK WEDMORE. 
 
 In large portfolio 27J inches x 20 inches. 
 
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 REMBRANDT: 
 
 HIS LIFE, HIS WORK, AND HIS TIME. 
 
 BY 
 
 EMILE MICHEL, 
 
 MPMBEK OF THE INSTITUTP. OF FRASCB. 
 TRANSLATED BY 
 
 FLORENCE SIMMONDS. 
 
 EDITED AND PREFACED BY 
 
 FREDERICK WEDMORE, 
 
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 enough to explain the passionate eagerness with which modern 
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 the great prices which are paid for them." 
 
MR. WILLIAM HEINEMANN-S LIST. 
 
 COREA, OR CHO-SEN, 
 
 THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM. 
 By a. henry SAVAGE-LANDOR. 
 
 Willi 38 Illustrations from Drawings by the Author, and a Portrait. 
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 ESSAYS ON VICTORIAN WRITERS. 
 By GEORGE SAINTSBURY. 
 
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14 
 
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MR. WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST. 
 
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 iERTRUDE Franki 
 
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