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Tous les autres exempiaires originaux sont film^s en commen^ant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols -^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols y signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s A des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche dt droits, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 S 6 f. I I The Land of the Muskeg ■# "M ' •— fri^tifis^ifif. ^ir7i<uyv(f?*u/n^r~^ The Land of the Muskeg •liy //. SOMERS SOMERSET With ii Preface hy '4. Hungerford 'Pollen It'll!) Oil, llidiihr,! and 'Ten l/liislijlion.^ jioni Shitil.u!. h\ , I. II. I'olhn ,niJ liht.niLin.viis rih>l,>i;r,ij'h:, and I'oiir Mij'S • :^s9^- -aaa^- LONDON: WILIJAM III'INKMANN ^■J/I I igl'ilS rCUITid IS95 F Edinburgh: T. iinil A. Cunstaiili , Printers to Her Majusly CI ;; t Zo M V I\I O T 1 1 I', K PWri I W<i»l»WIMM<«l I w •:H**M;V CONTENTS l-RIFACI I'Ai.K xiii-xxxi CHAP ri: R I KdM llir, AIMAIIASKA lAM'INC. cnArrHR ii I III. ri.A( r. Kivi.K 24 CHAI'TKU II l)A'':il \N AMI 1 III'. IIKAKS s(> CHAPTHR IV CAMI'INc; IN SWA.Ml' .... 77 CHAl'TKR V l)N niK IKACK ()|- A (;ki//i,y . 99 C Ii A V r i: R V 1 InllN S I'KOI'IIIXV 120 chai'ti:r VI ON IIIK SNOW-I.INK. .... '36 .>^*Mi^ 1 I ii (1 1' VllI THE LAND OF THIi MUSKEG CHAPTER VIII SHORT COMMONS .... CHAPTER IX HUNGKR AND COLD .... I'AGE i6i 178 CHAPTER X THE I'OKTAIRS AND SICCANKES 220 CHAPTER XI DOWN IHK HAIMDS AND AWAY 237 % LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS H. VOMERS SOMERSKT A nOOD TROPHY . . . . ROUGH WORK IN THK ROCKIES , WINTRY WEATHER IN W VOMINO H. li. ROUND SNOWEU-UI' IN CAEIFORN WYOM WINTER CAMP IN I A NO A SriCRN FATHER Wl.; HUNTED WITH FAIR SUCCESS I'ACK-TRAIN IN THE SNOW H. S. SOMERSET .... STEAMER ON Al'HAliASKA . PASSING AN INDIAN CAMP THE STURCEON-HEAI) ON THE LITTI ONE OF THE CREW IHE EAST OF OUR liOAT A NATIVE A HAI.F-IIREED .... STUCK IN A SWAMP . 'HERE AND THERE WE CAME TO SM A TYPE FIRST VIEW OF THE PEACE MONIAS H. l;. ROUND i'AI' DAUKHAN .... JOHN KNOT . SI, A I.I, VE Froniispiccc l'A(,E Preface xiii xiv xvi xvii ., xix „ xxi ., xxii ., xxiv „ \xvii ,, xxxi UAI I VI' lES 4 6 lO 12 i6 17 •9 21 23 24 27 29 32 32 36 ir f!l 'I 8 ' i I X THE LAND OF THE MUSKE(i NISTAMAPU . ALBERT TAIT FORT DUNVEGAN . A FISH SPEAR CHIEF TRAN(JUILLE TWELVEFOOT DAVIS JOHN THE HAl'TIST'S DAUGHTERS ROUND AND POLLEN PACKING . 'THE HORSES WERE HEAVILY LADEN' 'MANY OF THE TREES WERE ROTTING' . 'THE GRASS WAS LONG AND VERY TIRING' 'WE MOVED ON ABOUT FIVE MILES' THE PRAIRIE 'HE HAD ONLY THE SMALL MUZZLE-LOADER' 'THE HUGE ANIMAL ROLLED OVER DEAD' INDIAN ICE SCOOP 'FAR BEYOND WE COULD SEE THE LOW FOOT-HU.LS MOSQUITO NETS . AN EVENING CAMP 'ABOUT MIDDAY WE DESCENDED INTO AN OPEN FLAT' HORSES SWIMMING THE PINE RIVER JOHN AND DAUKHAN IN THE CANOE FISH SPEAR OUR CAMP IN THE VALLEY GETTING READY FOR MOBERLEY'S LAKE TRACK OF A GRIZZLY .... IN OPEN COUNTRY .... BIRCH-BARK ROGGANS .... HARPOON POINTS .... JOHN ALLAH'S MOTHER .... ALLAH'S WIFE PAGE 39 40 42 44 50 5' 53 57 60 61 64 65 68 71 72 76 78 79 83 87 89 92 96 lOI 103 104 109 1 12 119 1 22 125 127 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XI I'AGE 39 40 42 44 50 51 53 57 60 61 64 65 68 71 72 76 78 79 83 87 89 92 96 lOI 103 104 109 1 12 119 1 22 125 127 LODGES CAMPED IN THE M/OODS AFTER A HARD DAY A BEND OF THE PINE THE START AN AMPHITHEATRE ON THE NORTH SPUR THE MOCK SUNSET THE VIRGIN FOREST A WELCOME SK^HT FIRE IJAG TWO OF OUR VISITORS SVMON 'INDIAN LAUGH AIJ, THE TIME' CHARLEY SENIOR HIS SON DEDODOR CIIARI.KV JUNIOR GAMBLING STICKS ...... TOM-TOMS HORSES IN DOWN TIMBER .... WHICH.' THE AXE-MEN HAD TO CLEAR A PATH STONE WAR CLUBS 'THE VALLEY H.\D BECOME VERY NARROW' GOOD-BVE TO IHE PINE 'lAF'.RVWHERE DEEP POOLS AND BEAVER DAM> 'OUR CAMP WAS MISERABLY WET' . 'MARCHING IN MUSKEGS' DEAD I!I:AT 'DARKNESS CAME ON' THE HARD GROUND' A BUILDING LOOMED Ul' BIC. IN THi; DARKNESS' I'OLLEN LOOKED VERY GHASTLY' . I'A(,K 129 '31 ^33 135 136 •38 140 146 14S 159 160 162 •63 164 164 165 155 167 168 170 171 172 177 180 1S2 189 191 192 196 198 199 211 216 4 vll -ti xii THE LAND OF THE MUSKEG JOHN SAYS GOOD-BYK FORT M'^LEOD ROBERT RAMSEY . ON A GOOD TRAIL CARRIER INDIANS A PAIR OF TWEEZERS A PREHISTORIC MICROBE . STONE SPEAR AND ARROW HEADS DREAM NECKLACE CKILCOTIN PIPE .... WOODEN COMB .... ON THE FRAZER IN A DUG-OUT NEARLY A MILE BROAD 'THE RIVER DROPPED OUT OF SIGHT OVER A FALL 'SMOOTH WATER SOME MILES BELOW' BONE MINNOW SPEAR HEAD CASTORUM CASE PAGE 223 225 227 228 230 230 232 236 238 240 241 244 245 246 248 ill ■.t| If MAPS MAP OF BRITISH COLUMBIA, ALBERTA, AND ATHABASKA to face page I EDMONTON '.O DUNVEGAN .... „ 1 4 DUNVEGAN TO FORT M'^LEOD ... „ 5^ FORT APLEOD TO FORT (JEORGE AND QUKSNEI.LE MOUTH .... „ 237 —««-*■• PREFACE '■?<7 It was only about ten clays before we left EnoJand that we decided upon making the expedition de- scribed in this book. Two years before, Somerset and I had made short hunting trips in the moun- tains in the north of the State of Wyoming, and in the more southerly sierras in California. Here we had ; hunted with fair success, and incidentally had learned what roughing it really means. In Wyoming we had struggled with a premature gust of wintry weather, and had been snowed up, and in California too had experienced the pleasures of being lost on snov\ -covered heights. So that, though only nineteen Somerset had had a con- siderable experience of mountain travelling. But so far our adventures had not been anything out of the ordinary lot of the sporting tripper ; and we A GOOD TKOI'IIY XIV THIi: LAND OI- THI- Ml'SKmi were now anxious to break new ij^round, if possibk-, in a country that offered a fair prospect for sport. It was at this point that a recent map of British Columbia and certain mendacious Canadian likie- booUs fell into our hands, and in a moment our plans were laid. ' Unexplored ' fi^^ured so largely and alluringly in one and prodigious ac- counts of bears, moose, w o I V e s, beavers, cariboo, and other animals so se- ductively in the other, that we felt to force our way through this untravelled region promised a certain amount of novelty and adventure, while it seemed impossiole that we could pass through the great fur reserve of the world without getting such an amount of sport as would justify the labour of our undertaking. What Mr. Pike had so courageously done (and so admirably described) in the extreme North, must, it seemed, be a much easier tliinu to do in more K()U(;il WOKK IN IIIK KO(jKIi;s ■U.."^! PRI'I'ACI- XV tem[)eratc and less barren rco;ions ; so \vc dctcriiiinccl to strike off from the hi<rhways of that rej^ion thv rivers— and make an overland journey into the unknown. The first thin^r to do was to gain the support of the Hudson's Bay Company; and let it be said at once, nothing that we asked for in the shape of cither advice or help was ever denied us. l^Vom Lord Lichfield and the officer in charge of the smallest fort we passed, every one who had to do with that great organisation treated us with a real kindness that is not to be explained by any mere consideration of commercial courtes)-. Without the Company, one could hardly travel there at all, but the services one is so happy to remember are those voluntarily given, often at considerable cost of trouble to the giver, and always with a spontaneity and goodwill that made the kindness doubly de- lightful. The farthest point the railway could take us to was the little town of Edmonton, that lies to the north of the Province of Alberta, and there we arrived or June 7th, 1893. We set to work at once to find some one who could give us informa- tion based on personal experience. Judgim^ merely by th e map. the Blue-books, and the fur retu rns we !k 3Ei-rr I > XVI THI' I-ANI) OI- THI- MlSKIlCi m had seen ;it Winnipeg, our original plan hail been to travel by water and wagon to Fort St. John, on the Peace River, and make that our base for a journey to the North. Of course we were reckoning in entire ignorance of the character of the country. We were in Kdmonton a full week, and thouirh most h()S[)itably welcomed in that llourishing sentinel town, it is to be said that our plans were received with derision. What folly to go to certain misery and failure, when by staying where we were we could get the finest wild -fowl shooting in the world ! Then there were any number of black bears and, if I remember rightly, deer, moose, and a whispered rumour of buffalo, and all in a neighbourhood teeming with comfort. It is always so in my experience in a frontier town. One would have thought that, having come so far afield, these pioneers from an overcrowded world would have warmed to the project of fresh adven- ture ; but no, one is invariably warned with circum- stantial (but quite unveracious) anecdote of the perils of the beyond, and gratuitously (and quite UlNTKY WICATIIKK IN \VVu.MIN(; 7i -i (1 .- J t rKi-rAci-: XVI 1 been John, for a voning intry. Lhouijjh entincl 'ccivcd misery en by c were e finest ting in ^n there nber of if 1 , deer, intl all It is town, so far d world adven- circuni- of the id quite incorrectly) advised as to rejj^ions and routes one has no wish or intention of exploring;. But most luckily at Edmonton there was one man who did know the country we were making for, and knew it and its inhabitants well, for he had for years been stationed at ! )unvegan in charge of \ M. the Hudson's Bay Company's fort. This was Mr. H. B. Round, about whom I shall have more to say later. Suffice it at present that he at once cncouracred our making the attempt, and only corrected our plans by suggest- ing that we should start from Dunvegan and work west in- stead of north. The thousand perplexities that threaten every traveller who enters a country new to him were in great degree dissipated by the iniormation and advice that Mr. Round gave us, and after three days' acquaintance we had got to lean on his judgment so completely that we begged b r- — ■ n"'. -^s fc 'flf ■■"' ; *jfe: •--\. •• ;■ '.;■' »^*i§:i II. 1!. KOUNI) w iil Win Till". LAND OI" Till". MI'SKI.C. ^^ i4n'^' -5 1 3 him to acc()in[)any us if he could. Most fortunately for us he was able to do this, and at once threw himself into the business of buying stores and perfecting arrangements with a heartiness that boded well. Our first move must be to get to the Athabaska Landing, a hundred miles north ; here we should find a river steamer that plies on the Athabaska, carrying the Company's fur and stores, and in this we should be taken uj) to meet Mr. Ewen Macdonald from the Little Slave Lake, who was expected at the mouth of the Little Slave River with the fruits of the winter's trading. Mr. ^Lacdonald would see us safe to his headquarters on the bend of the lake, and here we should be left to our own devices. The steamer was due to start on the 2oth, but our arrangements being all made, and we in a hurry to escape into camp-life, we thought we might as well start, and so on the 14th, amid the cheers of the good-hearted folk of Edmonton, and a drench- ing downpour of rain, we left in two wagons heavily loaded with passengers, the more precious baggage, stores for a week, and our camp outfit. Rourd and I drove in one, and a hired driver, who was to bring the teams back, had charge of the other, with Captain Robert Ramsey and Dr. Dudley as H m^ rtunately cc threw )rcs and less that kthabaska vc should thabaska, M.\ in this ilacdonakl cpectcd at I the fruits vvoukl see nd of the n devices. 20th, but in a hurry might as cheers of a drench- 3ns heavily is baggage, tit. Rourd r, who was the other, Dudley as si a O m IT XX THI- LAM) ()!• Tin- MUSKF'C. * ' in f passcntjcrs. I ho Doctor was a young praciilioiur from Chicago, whom wc had cn<;a<f(:d on our way out, a strani^cr to the wilderness, but who never- theless bore the hardships of our expedition with- out complaint. His skill was j^^eatly in request amonij^st the Indians, and the medical stores he had broui^ht with him proved of immense use. Captain Ramsey was an old friend of ours. We had made his acquaintance in California, when a sudden shock of earthquake brou^jht all the five occupants of a tiny hotel tog^ether into a pathway, under an ominously swinging oil-lamp. We were on the point of starting into the mountains, and Ramsey, who had heard of our plan, b(;gged to hv allowed to come. The son of a substantial ship- owner of South Shields, he had been brought up to a sailor's life, and having visited every port in the world, and seen life in a hundred different countries, was an immediate volunteer for anything that pro- mised novelty. In camp he showed a genius for usefulness that made him an indispensable ally, and when we regretfully parted, we readily acceded to his request, that in the event of our making another expedition we should let him know. This 1 had done just before leaving England, and the rendez- vous being made at a distance of 7000 miles, it 1 i I'kl I ACI- \\i iCllllOlUT our Nv:iy () nevcr- on with- 1 request tores h(; use. irs. We ., when a the five pathway, We were ains. and red to be itial ship- loht up to ort in the countries, that pro- eenius for l; ally, and icceded to le another liis 1 had le rcndez- 3 miles, it seems It) he worlii recorilini; that he met us in IvJmonlon within half an hour of our own arrival. Besides the wagons, we had hir(;d a horse to riile, on which .Somerset and I look turns; hut there was IK) romance in ilu; journey. The country, it is true, was i'air to the eye, and I should imaj^inc of jj^reat auricuhural value ; but incessant rain and a poor WISTKK ( AMI' I.N \VVUMIN(; road made travelling the heiLjht of discomfort, so that on the third day we were glad to fmd ourselves, late in the evening, making our way down the hill that leatls to the square mile of territory and half- dozen log-houses and stores that rejoice in the sonorous name of the Athabaska Landing. Here Mr. Wood made us at home in his office, while he sent out to have a small shack cleared for ^!^"^ I' >: 'i xxii THI-: LAND OI' Tin- Ml'SKl'G our reception. It was a tiny log-hut of two small rooms, but there was a stove in it, and we gratefully accepted his offer of its shelter, as the alternative of camping in the mud was not pleasant. The Athabaska Landing is the gate of the great North. It is from here that all the stores go out that supply the Hudson's iJay Company's forts from Hudson's Hope to the mouth of the Mackenzie. A steamer built on the spot plies up the river to the mouth of the Slave River, and down to where the rapids make the Athabaska no longer navigable, where the stores are transhipped to York boats. Beyond the warehouses, offices, and Mr. Wood's residence there are no buildinLrs, although most of the year there is a large Indian encampment near by. It is, too, the last outpost of the Govern- ment, and a couple of the Canadian [)olice were on duty to stop the im[)ortation of strong liquor. But once on the north shore of the river, the constituted authority of the Queen's Government ends. Over all the rest of Northern Canada the land has been taken and settled after A STKKN lATIIKU i^'J mm P« rRI-I'ACI' XX m wo small :jratcfully "native of the great s o-o out orts from ;ickenzie. river to to where baska no he stores k boats. , offices, ice there gh most e Indian t is, too, Govern- ^anadian stop the or. But ^ of the Queen's lorthern ed after treaty with the Indian tribes, the natives ♦giving up their right to range freely, and getting reservations of territory and an annual supply of food in return. Witii the northern Indians no such ticali's have been made, and I believe it is an open question whether they are at all under the jurisdiction of the Canadian Courts. I think it was the day alter our arrival that a weatherbeaten old savage landed in a beautifully made birch-bark canoe while we were loitering at the landing-place, and came and shook hands with us in the friendliest manner. His story was curious, and illustrates what I have just been saying. There was a domestic (juarrel, it seems, one day in his lodge, and his son offering some serious incivility to his mother, he gave him a lesson in good-breeding by chopping off his head with an axe. For this he was taken out to Winnipeg, I think, and tried for murder, found guilty and sen- tenced, his counsel all the while protesting. The sentence was changed to imprisonment, and finally, after a lew weeks' detention, he was released and re- stored to his country — w^hether on the score of health or want of jurisdiction in the Court I am unable to say, but I was told that the first was made an excuse for not deciding the latter (juestion. One thing, however, is certain, and it is that ■»r- XXIV THE LAND OP THE MUSKE.G 1'i ^ north of the Athabaska there is no function of Government that is discharged either by the Dominion of Canada or the Imperial authority ; nor has the original power of the Indian chiefs survived in its integrity, and over far the greater part of the North-West all the machinery of con- trol they know is represented to the uncovenanted Indian by the Hudson's Bay Company and the missionaries of St. Mary Immaculate. These last fill a picturesque place in the story of the country. Ai almost every fort you will find the neat log-houses and church of the Roman Catholic Mission ; and the priests themselves are all highly edu- cated men, while the most of th>.m are of good French or French -Canadian families. Their in- fluence with the Indians is immense. During the last rebellion the Canadian Government owed much to the missionaries' power of restiaining incipient revolt, and every Hudson's Bay Company's officer we met was loua and unqualified in their praise. This VVK IlUNTlOl) WITH FAIR SUCCESS f \>.aU IV PREFACE XXV ction of by the ithority ; n chiefs greater of con- enanted md the story of find the Catholic lid the mselves ily edu- /hile the n are of ich or nadian heir in- th the ebelHon to the : revolt, we met This would hardly be so were not their services to civilisation and good order known beyond dispute, for the officers in question were to a man alien to their race and their creed, and as we had lament- able occasion to remark, the bitterness of religious differences is not a whit softer in that country than in ours. For ourselves, we have a score of services to thank them for, and the fathers at the Little Slave Lake, Smoky River, Dunvegan, and Fort IVFLeod each and all put themselves and all they possessed at our disposal in the friendliest way. It Avas through Fere Husson, at Dunvegan, that we were able to make the arrangements that enabled Daukhan Tustovvits and John Knot — those invaluable men — to leave their families for the summer, secure in the consciousness that they were in good hands : to Fere Morice we owe a debt of thanks for much of the information that we obtained, — and to all a recollection of personal kindliness and consideration that it will be a lasting pleasure to remember. The Hudson's Bay Company itself, however, holds the pride of place in the North. With its long history, its wide ramifications, its vast property, and its huge power, so benevolently used, it seems more like a political institution than a mercantile T' » ' ,♦ XWl THI-: LAND Ol' Till' Ml'SKi:(i concern. To borrow from the name of their ex- cellent tobacco, there is something of an Imperial Mixture about their organisation. At the forts flies the Union Jack, with the Company's mono- gram upon it : amongst the officers there is an esprit de corps and a loyalty to their calling that is almost patriotic. To them rivals, like the smugglers of old, are 'free traders,' and the survival of the old-world phrase is eloquent of the very tale of the Company's history. And yet the stress of modern commercial life is making great, and in a sense devastating, changes in the old order. The system of appointing a new Commissioner every five years disturbed the continuity of the Company's policy as little as the changes in the Viccroyalty of India now dis- connects that Government, so long as that policy was determined by an annual conference of the chief officers. Those were days when great dis- cretion was necessarily left to each officer in the discharge of his duties. Fraud, peculation, and dishonesty were unknown things in the Company's history, and it must be obvious to any one that to secure trustworthy men, and trust them absolutely, would have remained the best security for a con- tinued immunity. But with the new system of I iiv I PRi-:i'Aci<: XXVI 1 heir cx- Impcrial he forts s mono- 'e is an !ng that ike the md the uent of i\ Hfe is changes ntinor a bed the as the )w dis- t poHcy of the sat dis- in the m, and npany's that to olutely, a con- tem of centralisation which improved methods of com- munication have made possible, the system works tlifferently, and the old order is rapidly disap[)ear- ing. Competition and the rapid decay of the fur trade in so many districts contribute much to the change in the character of the officers, and with it the general aspect of the Company as an institution must in a few years' time be altered beyond reco---- nition. It is useless to regret the inevitable, but a casual traveller may be pardoned if he deplores the invasion of the spirit of modern dividend-huntin(r into a domain so romantic and inspiring. For the trail of eco- nomy is over all. Old servants are being dismissed, and their places taken by cheaper men. Forts are abandoned, and Indians forced to move to follow their r-'.arkets, and everywhere there is a consciousness of uncertainty as to the future, and ignorance of what the next move from headquarters may be, that but ill replaces I'ACIv-TKAIN IN TIIK SNOW 1 !^ ' > XXVlll Tlir: I.AND OI' THI' MUSKEC. 1^ l'' * h m u 1 H ^ ;■ « ^' / r ^ '♦ ' 1 u\S > L,!U \ the old self-reliance and security that made such splendid servants of the officers, and endowed them with an authority that the Indians instinctively respected. The change in its least attractive features was brought home to us very vividly from the fact of our havint^ had the great good fortime to secure Mr. Round's company on our journey. He was a man of a good English family, educated in a public school, and bringing to his work all those high ideals of loyalty, perseverance, and devotion that are the distinguishing mark of our public servants. When he joined the Company's service more than twenty years ago that was the universal spirit of its employees, and in that spirit Mr. Round put ;n his score of years of toil. After fourteen years' charge of the fort at Dunvegan he had just reached the point at which he would have been entitled to expect promotion, when, for what was alleged to be an error of judgment, he was summarily dis- missed. At Dunvegan he had the care of a large ranche of cattle. Several died of an obscure disease. It seemed to him that the disease must be contagious, and in the exercise of his discretion he killed the survivors that were afflicted to save the rest. In all, if I remember aright, he only rRI'FACE XXIX killed two or three. These acts were duly reported ; but, owing to the indiscreet anxiety of a friend to discover the action of the disease, the fact of the disease at Dunveoan became public, there was an outcry from Europe, the Company was blamed, and the unfortunate Mr. Round was made; the scapegoat. Now it is hard for me to believe that if the control of the Company had been in the hands of any one who had personal knowledge of Mr. Round's character and service, so cruel a punish- ment would have been inlhcted for so small a fault — if fault indeed it was ; for the inquiry which was promised into the nature of the disease has not, so far as I am aware, ever been made. And that is why I alluded just now to the five years' Com- missionership : the chief of the Company has no knowledge, can have no knowledge, of his officers, and in a moment may part with one of the best the Company has ever had, inflicting a double wrong — one on the organisation that has been so well, so loyally served, another on the man who has given the prime of his life to its service. But to us the incident was all gain, for we enjoyed the companionship and help of a man whose like one could seldom hope; to light on in ^p^ XXX TII1<: LAND OF THI<: Ml'SKF-O t the pioneer [)laces of the earth. Never out of humour nor down-hearted, he did more work than any in an outfit where all were from the first almost driven to work their hardest all the time. And his advice and judgment made us as much his debtors as his exertions, for he knew more of the country and our method of travel, and the character and idiosyncrasies of the Indians, than any one we came across. His complete mastery of the Cree language was an invaluable help, and the fact of the Indians all knowmg and likinijf him personally made a hundred things easy that might well have been impossible. It was during our idle stay at the Athabaska Landing that our final plans were laid. From Round we had learned that the north bank of the Peace River was practically impassable — and moreover, not well stocked with game. The country between Pouce Coupee's prairie and the Pine Pass, on the other hand, was a favourite hunting-ground both of the Beavers and Crees. This route had another attraction for us, as by working through towards the mountains we could get out again to civilisation by M^Leod's Lake and the Frazer River instead of retracing our steps. There was a chance too of finding tolerable trails, Mr. Dawson having come over the Pine h i> m rKI'I'ACI' XXXI Pass and through to Dunvegan some fourteen years before. 'I'his therefore we deLcrminecI to attempt ; but of course all would d(^pend on the <,aiidance and information we should get later from the natives. How far our hopes were realised, and our adventures in carrying out our plan, the reader will learn in the following pages. ARTHUR IIUNCJKRKORI) TOLLKN. II. s. KoMKKsi'rr (From a sK-ctcli nutdc in caiiif< hy A //. /'. ) "• ; lit J » •: $ •/' i k I i' II 'h IM toll., \ ^'f '-^'!^'v W"" "^> ^ \ ¥•*•> J » — ^ mvimLm •<» .•iH ' »uaw.it ''./• '^">.\ I* '\. )'»il< i.m.'i, \ \ VMitatnuuiM ' . . . ■ :.•» 10- '»'<-, ^^ ^ X y J-'h.y,.r X^>., / ';::c o- • L', ,v. , M X tt/ ^-^ fcV'«a*'"' '^^H '''"'"'"'1* '*"'' * "* *"".• I r-. ('3w'' . V '• f ■• ,,1, ,/!'%•< '"■ ^fe"^^-; 3?i& H^^r ^i^^'-> '--?^- f"^v«^'H; I A' , '''.s/;;»':A..... \ )^"i\r" ' -^'^■ '(»,""""■<• / •'■••'I'll .Wi/w,-,,v< ' MAP or ALBERTA AND ATHABASCA " /.!<>' i:to Somerset and Pollen's Route \x^ I.: I I. Ill lOH ,^,iit "' '"«, IV.i ll" ^ ^vi-t^V I 111"' -A^»' ,/ \ h " f.l"' * Y"'"'' t «•■" si,.!.!' ,.V I' '. '\ "r J viv.f> Ai' : "iW/.i, '^^-Z ■% , ivl .' it i, ♦ V" "/v B.iiT (*"''> ,.•' — / " ' ,1 iif*'^ It / V-/' T^ 54 ' IJ I iji> , fS "'ir A T K s I !<'. •/\;; ■"'V''. •■/.«•• r 'n„ii Win~ -.n'^ .» '■ I't mim CHAPTER I FROM THE ATHABASKA LANDING For five days we remained in our cabin at the Athabaska Landing, talking to Mr. Wood, ihe officer in charge, or wandering over to the camp of Cree Indians by the river-bank. For hours together we sat watching the great stream Mow . by on its way to the Arctic, and wondering what our journey would bring forth. The steamer lay moored to the bank— a curious stern-wheeled affair steered by five rudders, and of a somewhat roucrh- and-ready build. All day and all night the mosquitoes hung over us in clouds, but we were told that their numbers would be niultiplied a hundred-fold when we got into the bush country ; and this certainly proved true. Torrents of rain fell perpetually, so that we were forced to sleep under the tables in the cabin if we wished to keep dry beds, and often above the roaring of the rain we heard the beating of the tom-tom through the night, while the Indians gambled or held a tea revel. Our stores had been delayed, and did not arrive until we had nearly exhausted our patience. A ir i i THE LAND OF THE MUSKEG i i f } and, to add to our troubles, the captain of the steamer lay dying, so that she could not start. At last, however, a substitute was found, and with Mr. Livock in charge, on June the 23rd, we got under way, and steamed slowly up the Athabaska to the West. The rapid current impeded the little boat, so that she shook and splashed her single paddle, and made but a poor pace. Reach after reach of that monotonous river came to view -«^MMfcn^ and was left behind with no land- mark to tell of its passage. The banks, high and choked with dense woods of pine and poplar, advanced and receded with the bending of the stream, dark and sombre, like houses in an ill-lit street. And yet they were full of interest to us. We sat on the little deck and watched them, wondering what the woods we should journey through would look like, and whether the underbrush would always be as dense and the trees so thick. Now and then we passed Indians paddling easily with the current, or towing their light canoes against the stream. About mid- day one of the rudders broke loose and swung into the stern paddle, breaking some of the buckets, so that we were obliged to lie up by the bank and effect repairs. The mosquitoes flocked out from STEAMER ON ATHABASKA ^ li '. 1 ;J FROM THE ATHABASKA LANDLXG 3 the bushes in thousands, and brought with them y new tormentor, the bull-dog fly. This insect is about the size of a bumble-bee, and indeed much resembles one in appearance, but has also a suggestion of the horse-fly about it. They flew silently, and alighted so skilfully that one did not notice them until they had already commenced the attack. Then one felt a quick pain, as though some sharp steel instrument had pierced the flesh ; and even after the insect had been d.iven off, the blood would continue to flow for several minutes. During this halt an accident happened to one of our be- longings that will delight any superstitious person who has the endurance to follow our wanderings and note our misfortunes, for we had broken a looking-glass— the only one we had— on the first day of our travels. I would not have mentioned this apparently trivial incident had it not been that several persons have seriously told me we got off extremely easily after so evil an omen. That night the stoamer was again moored to the bank near an i 1 .amping-ground, where the native hands '- ^- •' ''"'ni the writing on the trees that one 'Two accxts' had lately spent some days. On the followmg day the river appeared shal'ower, and about six hundred yards broad. Wo were obliged to proceed with great cauiion r.mongst the islands and sandbanks, so that it was not until past midday that we came to the mouth of the I 11' I i t > 4 THE LAND OF THE MUSKEG Lesser Slave River. There we met Mr. M'^Donakl, the Hudson's Bay Company officer, in charge of the Slave Lake Post. He had come down the Slave River to meet the steamer which was to carry the ' fur-kill ' of his district out to the landing, and which brought him his winter's stores. Of course he had no knowledge of our coming, and was much surprised to see us, for, with the ex- ception of Mr. Pike, we were the first party in his time who had travelled up the country for their own amusement. His crew of Indians joined forces with the steamer hands, and the interchange of baggage was soon effected, our belongings being neatly stored in the bottom of his open boat, while the business of the Company It was pretty to watch the way in which the men moved the fur bales, one half-breed of the name of Brassand handling two- hundred-and-fifty-pound packages with the greatest ease and swiftness. After luncheon we said fare- well to Mr. Livock, thanking him for his kindness, and then the steamer turned down the river again and disappeared round the bend, cutting off all com- PASSING AN INIIIAN CAMl' was being attended to •wr I >^ FROM THH ATHABASKA LAXDIXG 5 munication with the outer world. Now at last wp-felt that we had started, and that, come what might, we had set our faces towards the unknown. The sturgeon-head boat in which we were to travel is one of the features of a country where rivers are the only highways. There are but three kinds of boats in the North-West,— the canoe, the York boat, and the sturgeon-head. A sturgeon- head somewhat resembles a canal barge, but is broader of beam and draws less water, having also a flattened bow, from which it derives its name. This one was about forty feet long and eight feet wide. We embarked and shoved off into the stream, and then proceeded up the little river in most picturesque fashion. The crew of ten stood upon the thwarts and punted with long poles ; the steersman, upon a platform in the stern, guided the boat with an oar or sweep trailing behind ; whilst a man in the bow, balancing a pole after the manner of a tight-rope walker, pointed out the shoals and shallows with either end as they appeared to the right or left. After a time the current ran stronger, and we disembarked the men, who proceeded to tow us. Towing— or tracking, as it is called in the North— brings up before the English mind pictures of well-kept paths and neat white gates fitted with easy springs. But the shores of the Slave River can boast none of these advantages, the country being thickly bushed and very rough ; and nowhere I 4 rv I :■ ill W '. ( •»■• ' \i '1 ■.'.■■ II : ' 'Hi y; 'fr ai > > o a < Id z; O a 3! 3 H 7) ^' > < o < 7-, o u FROM THE ATHAHASKA LANDING 7 for a hundred consecutive yards is there good going. In tracking, two lines are used, three or four men being harnessed to each rope. Behind them walics another, whose duty it is to free the line when it becomes caught in the bushes. These unfortunates stumble along through the underbrush or bruise their moccasined feet against the sharp rocks by the water-side, often up to their waists in the river, always leaning on the rope, and frequently almost losing their balance when it gets entangled in some twisted root. Hour after hour they go steadily forward, only halting for food ; while the white man in the boat smokes his pipe in whatever ci mount of peace the mosquitoes allow him, and, protected from the weather by tarpaulin and macintosh, idly watches their labours. At first sight it seems wonderful that any one can be found willing to endure such slavery, but the men are well fed and well paid, earning far better wages than their more independent brothers who spend their life in fur- hunting, in a country from which the greater part of the game has long since disappeared. We had no sooner started than the rain fell in torrents, so that camp was not made under cheerful auspices. Nevertheless that first supper of bread and bacon tasted good, for we knew that every step carried us farther into the wilds, and this brought back more forcibly the old love for the i ! ,-.= r. ^ I , I I ' 8 THIi: LAND Ol' THE MUSKEG wilderness. The crew shot several owls near camp, and this addition to their regulation meal seemed to afford them immense satisfaction. The routine of the day was as follows : A light and hasty breakfast was taken at five before starting; at 8.30 a halt was made for a more serious meal, and again at 12.30 for dinner. As a rule the men eat again at five, and finally had supper in camp at nine. In this fashion we moved up the little river until the third day, when we reached the lake. As the shore was swampy, we went on a little way and made camp on a small island some miles from the coast. The lake itself is about seventy-five miles long, and from five to fifteen broad. It is a shallow piece of water, lying in a low, swampy country, and it is said that every year the shore encroaches, and that the day is not far distant when the water-way will become impassable for any but extremely small boats. Be this as it may, the enormous expanse of water stretching to the horizon is very impressive in its utter desolation. Mr. McDonald told us that the ice had only broken up about three weeks before our coming, but not a vestige of it remained. As the wind was directly contrary, it seemed that we might have to wait some days before we attempted to cross. However, we kept everything in readiness for a sudden start in the night on the chanct of a lull or a change in the weather. The island where we were encamped swarmed with •" f^ ^ -- FROM THE ATHAI5ASKA LANDING 9 sleigh dogs belonging to the Company and neioh- bouring Indians. These animals will eat almost anything, so we were compelled to hang the greater part of our goods upon the trees, high enough to bt- out of their reach. The lake is full of white fish, which the Indians smoke and dry in native fashion • and very excellent they are. Some were brought to us, and, giving a few handfuls of tea in exchange, we roasted them for supper. The wind was still blowing a gale on the follow- ing morning, so that we did not make a start until well on in the day, and had onlv travelled about tv.elve miles by evening. It was then too late to cross the lake, and so that night we slept upon the southern shore. On Wednesday the weather moder- ated a little, but the waves still ran high, and the rain fell in torrents. The men, however, rowed in splendid style, and we made a late camp upon tlie northern shore. The strength and endurance of these men— both Indians and half-breeds-is quite extraordinary. They are for the most part small spare men, with slender arms and narrow chests, yet they are able to work in the most wonderful way, and to go on for any length of time. Each oar of a sturgeon-head boat weighs about a hun- dred pounds, being of great length and thickness, but suddenly narrowing to the dimensions of an ordinary oar towards the end, so that the men may obtain a firm grasp with the hand. The rowers t I- f t^il) lO THI-: LAND Ol- THE MUSKEG i:; t f'» place a pad under one foot, the \eg being held nearly straight before them, with the other leg beneath the seat, they rise to a standing position, and then throwing their weight on the sweep, and getting a sharp kick off from the pad, they sink back to the bench, thus completing the stroke. As may be imagined, this is no light work, but the men do not seem to mind it, and will go on all day, and sometimes all night, laughing and cheerful, so long as the food is plentiful and to their liking. Towards the south there lay a low table mountain about two thousand feet above the lake ; it was the only hill in the landscape, and, as such, gained a certain dis- tinction. But it appears that it has a far greater claim to reverence than one would be led to suppose. For, according to Indian tradition, this is the home of thunder. They say that upon it there dwell many enormous birds ; now and again they flap their wings with loud noise, and this is what men rail thunder. As these immense creatures never condescend to visit the plain, but remain for ever upon the revered mountain, there is no legend which would lead one to suppose that they have ON'K OK Till-; tm-.w •-'♦*- ■^^H-— •'^" I'ROM THE ATHAHASKA LANDING I I ever appeared to mortals, but for many years the fact of their existence was never doubted. I do not imagine that any up-to-date Indian believes or even considers these traditions. Christianity has long since reached them, and they have lost even the semblance of their former mythology. Yet so strongly does the religion of one generatfon affect the speech of another, that you will often hear a man say, after a stormy night, that 'they have been flapping a good deal.' During the entire voyage the wind remained contrary, and the rain swept down the lake in drenching squalls, so that we were glad to find shelter under a friendly tarpaulin, and there re- mained huddled above the bilge in somewhat dismal mood. On the third day we sighted land towards the west, lying low and unbroken on the horizon, but it was not until late in the afternoon that we drew towards the shore. Once more under the lea of the swamp our lives again became a bur- den to us, for the mosquitoes seemed to scent our approach and came out in unnumbered deputations to welcome us. Until this time we had encountered only the small grey mosquito, but it seemed that its season was over, and that the reign of the large yellow insect had come. This was of a light brown or yellow colour and of immense size. We measured the trunks of several specimens, which we found to be a quarter of an inch long. Neither It -v ( f ! ^ h^ J! f 13 THH LAND OI" TMI-: .MUSKi:r, clothinj; nor thick gloves were any [jrotcction from their attacks, and their boldness and recklessness of life and limb made them almost unendurable. The last part of our journey was along a shallow- channel through the large swamp that lies below the Fort — the haunt of innumerable ducks and wild-fowl— and, turning slightly towards the north, we unloaded the boats on the open shore in front of the Slave Lake Post. This post is the metropolis of the district, being the headquarters of the Com- pany for an immense area and the chief trading - place of the Cree- speaking In- dians in the North-West. The names of the Company's stations make a brave show upon the map, standing out in such clear black type that the stranger expects to find a city at least as large as Man- chester, and might be excused if he expressed some surprise upon seeing the place as it actually is. At the Little Slave Lake Post, for instance, the ' fort ' is a low log building, comfortable enough, but not imposing. Near by are several barn-like THE LAST OK OUK HOAT .•.rt.'...>t ' ■BB IRO.M Till' ATHAHASKA LANDING ^3 Structures where the fur is sorted and stored ; a little to the left stands the Catholic Mission and small chapel ; a few sheds and paddocks, a corral for the horses half hidden by the bush, and a score or so of the roughest Indian shacks complete one of the chief centres of industry in the North- VVest. But small and cheerless as such places are, the hospitable kindness of their inhabitants makes one ever remember these little settlements with pleasure. It is seldom that a stranger visits one of these lonely posts, but when he does, he feels that he has found a second home in a foreign land. We passed a pleasant evening at the post with Mr. M'^Donald's family, and then returned to our ramp to fight off the insects and try to sleep. On the following day we called upon the mis- sionaries, and very pleasant fellows we found them. One of them seemed to be in bad health, so we turned the Doctor on to him and watched with interest his treatment of the sick man. Now the Doctor, although by no means a large man, had a stentorian voice, and of this circumstance he seemed inordinately proud. In all cases of emergency or need he was in the habit of shouting his loudest, and he roared out his questions and medical advice in so savage a tone that the unfortunate priest seemed to think that he had committed some mon- strous crime in being ill, and had hardly the face to describe his symptoms. T 14 THE T,AND OF THE MUSKEG li: i ■ We were still about one hundred and thirty mile': from Dunvegan, and had the following ar- rangements to make : In />rimis, we were told that it would b^ difficult to get pack-horses farther up the country, so that we should be obliged to obtain them at Slave Lake, where we then were. Secondly, we had to get carriage for our goods as far as the Peace River Crossing, by what is known as the Slave Lake Road. But the Company's ox-train was not due to start until tv. o days after our arrival, so that thus far all was simple. Finally, we should have to trust to luck and the missionaries on the Peace River to convey us to Dunvegan, after reaching which we should be independent of the Company, and might set out through the bush with the horses, in whatever direction we chose. Of course, if the missionaries failed us, we could march with the pack-train to Dunvegan, but we knew that we could travel more rapidly with a wagon, Ci iving the horses unpacked before us. Mr. APDonald had given orders that the horses should be brought in from the range for our inspection, so we all adjourned to the corral and there spent the greater part of the day. Finally, we bought nine horses for four hundred and ninety dollars, small hardy-looking animals, and well up to weight. We knew that we should require more for the rough work in the bush, but we had taken all we fancied, and Mr. McDonald told us that e o EH iz; o iz; o Q F • f ,, •iif ? MB I FROM THE ATHARASKA LANDING 15 though we should be certain to get a few animals on the Peace River to carry the extra burdens, we could not count upon finding enough to make a pack-train. And this turned out as he had pre- dicted. But most important of all, we had still to find an Indian who should combine the skill of a hunter with some sort of knowledge of the unexplored country through which we proposed to travel. Round knew the natives well, and said that one Daukhan Tustowits, a famous hunter, was just the man we wanted. He told us that if we could only find this man the success of the expedition would be assured, but that we might have ^rreat difficulty in discovering his whereabouts, as he would certainly be away hunting in the bush. If he were within reach at all, it was probable that he would be somewhere in the Peace River country; and so it was settled that Round and Pollen oukl ride on to the river and send out men to scour the country for him. They were to take food with them upon a pack-horse, and make what haste they could, so that by the time the main party arrived they would know whedier they were likely to get him or not, and thus the expedition would be delayed as short a time as possible. Ramsey, the Doctor, and I were to follow on horseback with the ox-train, driving the pack-horses with the assistance of one John Knot, a half-breed herder and doo-- m i6 THE LAND OI' THE MUSKEC, < t t . ly." '' 1 1 sleigh driver of the Company's, This plan seemed excellent, but we had forgotten one thing. The Doctor was no equestrian, and did not look forward to a riding lesson over nearly one hundred miles of rough road with any pleasure. Of course, travelling with the ox-train, we should not go beyond a foot- pace, but still he showed a very natural distaste for so unwonted an exercise. We were told that the road was at all times atrocious, and at this season of the year in particularly bad condition, and he could hardly be expected to jolt for so long a journey in a springless ox- wagon. Mr. M'^Donald, how- ever, again came to our rescue, saying that he would himself drive the Doctor in his light car^ and thus get us out of our difficulty. To this kind proposal our inimitable medical adviser gave his assent, saying that he did not mind in the least. Having secured the necessary number of gunny sacks to supply deficiencies in the matter of saddle-blankets we were ready to set out. The sturgeon-head and Indian crew were once more requisitioned, and we moved round the last curve of the Lake, and camped amidst the ox-carts at the extreme west end, ready for the march on the morrow. There we visited IMr. Holmes, the A NATIVK FROM THE ATHABASKA LANDING 17 Anglican missionary, and his family, and talked of the old country and of our present surroundings. Of course, all Anglican missionaries in this country are to a certain extent poachers. The country is without doubt Cau.olic— that is, in so far as it may be said to be Christian at all ; and the unnecessary rivalry of sects must do much towards confusino- the smiple-minded native. It may be answered that two good things are better than one, and I do not deny it for a moment. Mr. Holmes is a model missionary, and the pity of the thing is, that they are not all like him. But the fact that in many places the Indians are Pro- testant in the winter when the times are hard, and Ca- ^ tholic when there is nothing to be gained, is somewhat startlinpf. We were up betimes next morning, and Pollen and Round got their kit together for their flying ride. At twelve, after a hasty lunch, they set off at a sharp trot ; and about a couple of hours later the ox-train began to get under v/ay. Each animal drew a two-wheeled cart, and was tied^to the tail of the cart before him, so that one man was able to manage four or five carts, and by leading the foremost ox could direct a small procession. In B A u.\LK-iiKi;i;i) ^ i i8 THE LAND OF THIL MUSKI'G ,/ ' I !''. I addition to the fourteen small carts there was a wagon drawn by four oxen, and another to which four horses were harnessed. The wagons moved off first, then came the ox-train, then a single cart in which the whole of John Knot's family travelled, sheltered from the sun by green branches, and finally, Ramsey and I brought up the rear on horseback, driving our newly purchased animals before us. The whole country was covered with a dense forest of poplar and cotton-wood, so that one could see but a few yards to the right d*- left. The branches met overhead, and the road beneath was an oozy swamp of black mud untouched by the sun. Great pits and dykes furrowed its sur- face, and were filled to the brim with the staQ-nant water. Through these the wagons pitched and swam like ships in a heavy sea, now falling on the brink of disaster, then again righting, and again all but overturning on the other side. The loud creaking of the wheels filled the air. Far away in the front of the long line a root or hole w'ould jolt some wagon, making the axles scream ; as we approached we could hear the loud cry coming ever nearer, as cart after cart en- countered the obstacle, and all the while the whole train lumbered along irroaningf. When we passed through the swamp great clouds of mosquitoes llew out upon us. The necks and shoulders of the horses were grey with them, and FROM THE ATHADASKA LANDING 19 ran blood from the bites of the bull-doo; flies. As we marched at a foot-pace, we had not made more than five miles by camping-time. On the following morning we made a very early start, and soon passed the ox-train. Charley, the head of the Hudson Bay Company's transport on this road, an old hand at srUCK IN A SWAMl' the work, drove the horse-wagon and came ahead with us. Here and there we crossed little open meadows, and it was in one of these that the wagon became hopelessly bogged. The team could not draw it out of the mud-hole, so we unhitched the horses and waited for the coming of the oxen. On their arrival we harnessed five oxen fei) 20 THF, LAND OF THI': MUSKEG J:,' f f r 1^ f l'^ •; t f 1 ''M w^sd in front of the four horses, and urgin_Lj them for- ward with whip and voice tried to move the wagon. Charley, erect upon the box, cracked his long stock whip over the struggling animals ; an Indian stood at the head of the leaders trying to keep them to the road, whilst the remainder of the party belaboured the oxen with heavy sticks. But the wagon did not move. The panting teams swerved and slipped in the mud, and finally collapsed in a heap in a shallow pool by the roadside. We tried again and again, till the coats of the eight beasts were white with lather, but did not succeed in drawing the wagon to firm ground for nearly two hours. On the following day Mr. A^Donald and the Doctor overtook us, and we travelled all day to- gether in torrents of rain. The flies nearly drove us mad, so that we were forced to wave green branches round our heads continually as we rode, in a vain attempt to drive them off. On the third day we camped near another outfit — that of a free trader named Riviere, the sworn enemy of the Hudson's Bay Company. He had with him two Belgians, whose conduct was strange in the ex- treme. It appeared that one of them asked the other to fetch a bucket of water. He accordingly started towards the swamp to do so, but returned saying that he would not fetch water in a pail which he considered improperly cleaned. Upon I'ROM THK aTHAIUSKA LANDING 21 this there ensued a fiery discussion on the subject of pails, so that the Bel^nans nearly came to blows. However, they decided to lay their case before La Riviere, and allow him to decide whether the pail was clean or no. Now La Riviere was sitting" in his tent talking- to a venerable Catholic mis sionary, who happened to be goin_(r over the road in his caravan, when they entered, bucket in hand. ' IlliKIi AM) 'lilKKE UK ( AMK Tl) .S.MA1,L I'UAlKll.s' But it was all to no purpose. Before either had stated his case a paroxysm of fury seized both young men, and they began to fight, using the prostrate bodies of the free trader and the mission- ary as their battle-ground. The tent was small, and the view of the interior during the next few moments suggested a human kaleidoscope. Here and there we came to small prairies a mile or so across, where the ground was firm ; but for the most part we continued to travel through i s T hi 22 Till- LAND OI" Tllli Ml'SKI'd ■i: > J,l }■■ I.' <' If ' ' I swampy woods. Now for the first time we made the acciLiaintance of the muskeg swamp, and from this time forward hardly a day passed to the end of the journey when we did not curse this particular abomination. At first sight a muskeg seems no very terrible affair. Green spongy moss covers the ground, whilst here and there lie small pools of clear water. One realises that the moss is soft and wet, and that the travelling may be heavy, but nothing more. But no sooner have you set foot upon its treacherous surface than the thing becomes more serious. The beautiful green moss seems to catch your foot as in a vice, and to rise swiftly towards you. When a man faints he somef.mies imagines that the ground has risen up and struck him ; this is exactly the sensation of him who walks in a muskeg. You feel that you must quickly take another step before it is too late, and so you plod on, and soon you tire. In point of fact there is little danger of being sucked down, but the place has a most melancholy look. Nothing else on earth can be so vividly green and yet so utterly desolate. Several times we saw skunks upon the road, and indeed John Knot contrived to kill one — a most difficult job, as no one dares come to close quarters with these small and inoffensive-looking animals on account of the fearful stench which they are capable of emitting when provoked. The it FROM THl- ATHAHASKA LANDIXC 23 distance to which tht;y can throw the stinking- llujtl is remarkable, and their aim unfailing. Any gar- ment which they even sprinkle must immediately be thrown away, and the man who wore it is no welcome guest for many days afterwards. John was a most pleasant companion, and had a mightily quaint way of expressing his ideas. He was also a very hard worker, with a high character for honesty. Besides his other accom- plishments he spoke Cree like a native, and understood the lan- guage of the Beaver Indians, ^ through whose country we were 71 to pass. We were already short- handed for so long an expedition, and so when I met Pollen at the crossing, he needed little per- suasion to agree that it w^ould be best to engage John to join our party. The flies were so troublesome in the evenings that I was often obliged to make a small fire, or smudge, as it is called, and sit in the smoke when writing up my journal ; but even when so uncom- fortably situated, and with gloved hands, I could hardly write two words without stopping to crush some bold insect which had found the seams in the gloves, and had already commenced his meal. A TYl'K I f,l I i n L^i '' * I, * H , ! \i ' CHAPTER II THE PEACE RIVER On the seventh day after leaving the Lake we sighted the great Peace River. We had been travelling on a plateau sloping gently towards the north-west ; but now the land sank down rapidly to the river at a sharp angle, and we stood upon bold bluffs overlook ing the plain. Be- low us lay the mighty river, winding ma- j e s t i c a 1 1 y amongst the little hills and prairies. Mile after mile of thickly timbered rolling country stretched out before us in great sweeping lines of hill and valley. Towards the south-west, where the Smoky River joined the Peace, a great curtain of blue haze shut out the view. No white man, and but few Indians, 2-t FIRST VIKW OF TIIK I'liAClC ^ fe- I I ) ' M I J THE Pi'Aci-: ri\i:r 25 liavc ever penetrated this country, or solved the mystery of this perpetual smoke ; but it is tiiou-^ht that a burning coal-mine must exist upon the river- bank, as no sign of volcanic action has ever been observed in the surrounding district. The Indians give the place a very wide berth, but one more bold than his fellows once confessed to me that he had explored the region, and gave a picturesque if not entirely scientific account of v.hat he saw. He .'.lid that the ground was hot and scorched, but that he could perceive no noise or subterranean rumbling. Upon drawing near to the centre of activity, the smoke, he said, jumped up at him 'like a man from his bed.' We moved down the slope, and presently came to the river-bank, where we found Round and Pollen settled in a small log cabin, ihn property of the Company. They were full of tales of the road, and gave us graphic descriptions of their forced march. On the first half-day they had covered twenty miles, and had done the remaining eighty in the two following days. What with the flies and the incessant rain they had had a pretty hard time. They had taken no tent with them, but contented themselves with the laro-e piece of canvas or tent-fly, and so had been but scantily sheltered from the rain. Whilst in Edmon- ton we had purchased square coffin-like mosquito- nets ; but, as we always slept in the tent, we had only used them to block the door the more effec- , I 1 'I II 26 THIL LAND OI- Till-: MUSKI'(} ■tl f. i- •' !' 1 1, i I ( tually. Round and Pollen, however, had been tentless, and therefore pitched the nets each night. and were loud in their praise. Every man in the country, Indian or white, uses these com 'ivances if he is rleeping- in the open, for the alternative of lying between fires of damp logs is by no means attractive. When the Indian is pitchmg with his tepe he is safe from t!ie attacks of insects, as a fire is always kept burning in the centre of the lodge. But when he rests in the open he uses die pro- tective net, even if it costs him a half c ^ his worldly wealth. We found that our advanced guard had been by no means idle. They had ^ent out a man named Akinum to look for Daukhan Tustowits, and bv threat u'ood fortune he had found him. Vkinmn himself had already returned, and Daukhan had promise'! to be with us in a few days. They had also visited the Smoky River Mission, on the far nide of the Peace, and \\ A secured a wagon and th*^ services of a lay brother for the journey to Dunvegan. The brother had promised to call for us at the house r!" a half-breed named Pat, or: the other side of the river, and it had been arranged that Ramsey, the Doctor, and I should take our possessions up to the ?>Iission, whilst Pollen and Round were t) take the horses cross the river with whatever native help the'^ coukl muster. The Peace River is here about thirteen hundred i '**>'W '• ^^^^mmf^mm ■Mm mmmmmmmsm^mimm f *i rHK pi<:ace iuwim 27 feet \v;de, with an eioht-mile current, and Is said to be very deep, Tlie water is so muddy that one can hear the sand hiss in the stream, and even a bucketful will make a sHght noise when freshly drawn. Our first move was 10 take tlxe goods across. 'J^he only available scow, a punt-like boat, leaked alarmingly, and it seemed hardly safe to load it with the whole of our possessions, which weiglied nearly twenty- five hundred pounds. However, we knew that it was getting late, and that we should only be able to make one trip before nightfall, so we piled our stores and goods into the ferry, and hunted the neighbourhood for Indian help. Akanan, an Indian called Piddlicks (the native rendering of Frederick), and a half-witted man named Monias, were pressed into our service, and soon we were ready to start. After many adieus to Charley, and expres- sions of gratitude to Mr. M'Donald, we set out for the farther shore. On account of the swiftness of the river we were forced to go up the stream for more than a mile before we le^t the bank, and very arduous work it was; but finally we decided that we might safely turn acros.s, and in a moment were whirlino- in the swift current. A man who has nev(.'- rowed in rapid waters can have no idea of the teeling of utter helplessness which comes over one at such a ^!oMAS 1 '#.'\r m- 28 Till'. LAM) OI- Till' MLSKllC, ft?' • ' ■ t time. Tho whole landscape seemed to spin by us at an alarmint^ rate, and row as we might, we could make no headway against the current. Here and there we saw huge pine-trees floating down the river. Now and again some undercurrent would catch them, and they would rear sixty feet of their length clear out of the water, as though upheld by some giant hand, and then fall without warning, making a mighty splash. The least touch of one of these would have sent our frail craft to the bottom, and our own chances of safety or rescue would have been slioht indeed. At last, after a fearful struggle, we came to calmer water, and landed opposite Pat's cabin in a very exhausted condition. Pat, who was a mild-faced half-breed, did not seem the least disturbed at see- ing us, and when we told him that we intended to spend the night in his cabin, expressed no surprise, but simply sat on his door-stef) whilst we made our- selves comfortable in his mansion. I do not think he had any objections to our coming, but I am bound to say that we calmly took possession without ask- ing his leave. He would have been astonished if we had done so. He sal on the door-step while we cooketl our supper on his stove, until \\\t felt obliged to entreat him to come in and share it, as if W(j had been the hosts and he the guest. The three men who had lu:lped us across the river now came up for payment, st* \vc wrote cheques nil': I'luvcr: ri\'i:k 29 on the Hudson's Bay Company for so m my 'skins' apiece, and then remain^xl talking to thjm for some 1 1 ill we irc St. vcr ACS J 4*" -aBfe!: imim*- t ^vt™r •■■-- ~ t9"v^^ ^i: M. II. KnlM) time. Poor liaif-witted Monias told us stories of his unfortunate and almost sui)ernatural powers, which, though e.xtraordinary, are quite unprintable. I^i-i! 30 THI': LAND Ol- THIi MLSKF.G That night we slept on Pat's floor under our mos- quito-nets, which gave the little room the appear- ance of a laundress's drying-yard. On the following morning the lay brother came down with the wagon, into which we packed our goods, and then Ramsey, the Doctor, and I started towards the Mission, leaving Pollen and Round to cross and the horses to follow next morning. Our driver, who was a Frenchman, and an exceedingly pleasant fellow, told us all he l;new of the land and the climate, and made the journey very agreeable for us. Never have I seen such a glorious country as we now travelled over. On our left we could see the mighty river flowing between the dark pine-trees, wooded hills and sweeps of green prairie extending on all sides, covered with countless flowers, and acres of blood-red lilies ; while thickets of saska- toon, raspberry and gooseberry bushes, were banked up against the timber. After a while we descended into the river-bottom again, and stopped at the house of one Mackenzie, where the Doctor attended a patient. Then we went forward a little way and made our camp near the Mission. The priests and Mackenzie have cultivated a considerable portion of the valley, which is exceptionally fertile. But it is said that it is very difiicult to grow anything upon the beautiful plain above on account of the early frosts. The notes to be found on the maps of the country are emphatic in their praise of the THI-: pi:aci-: ri\hk 31 ! soil, which is undoubtedly fine ; but if the experi- ence of the inhabitants is to be relied upon, the whole area fit for cultivation only comprises a few small river-side Hats in many thousands of square miles. There has lately been a great 'boom' about the Peace River. Mr. Pike'' has already done his best to prick the bubble, but I have heard so many ignorant people aver that this IS a great farming country, that I think these facts cannot be too often repeated. It is a dreadful thing to think of the wretched emigrants who toil to this promised land only to find a useless country, and who are often unable to return to civilisation! but are forced to endure all the severities of the winter in a lattitude where the temperature has often fallen to si.xty degrees below zero. The missionaries, Peres Xerc. Husson. and La Treste. were kindness itself, making us presents of milk and butter, and allowing us to camp before their door by the banks of the Peace. The news that we had a great medicine-man in the outfit -spread fast, and soon our camp became a sort of hospital. Ghastly old hags hung round our fire, whilst maimed men and sick children stood silently watching us, waiting to be cured. The natives pu'i great faith in the 'medicine' of the white man. and believe that every Hudson's Bay Company's officer is a past master of the art. So great is their faith, that when the medicine-chest is exhausted they are m .1 M 32 THI:: LAND OF THE MUSKEG s ' w .>. If v*. / PAT often completely cured of minor ailments after taking a tumbler of dissolved tooth-powder or some such harmless compound. I very much doubt if the doctor's remedies were as successful, for they were made up in small tablets and globules, very convenient for travel- ling indeed, but then they lacked the unpleasant taste and bulk which the sick of the district believed to be indispensable to a complete cure. On Sunday Pollen and Round came up from ' The Crossing ' with the pack-horses, having had hard work on the previous evening ferrying them across the river. They told us that Daukhan Tustowits was already at the river-bank, and he rode up in the morning, accompanied by John Knot. Daukhan was a small wiry man about forty years of age, with thin black hair upon his chin. The pure Indian grows little or no hair on his face ; but Daukhan had white blood, and indeed somewhat resembled the ideal French cavalry officer in appearance. His manners were perfect, and the neatness of his speeches, which Round interpreted, was beyond liAUlvHAN THi: I'KACi-: ri\i:r 33 praise. Of course he had no English, but spoke in the soft and beautiful Cree lani^uage, and with the assistance of Round we carried on a long conversa- tion with him. Daukhan said that bears were very plentiful, and that he thought it would be a good hunting year, as the saskatoon bushes would bear a large crop of berries. He approved of our plan of march, saying that he knew the greater part of the country which we proposed to explore, and that although he had never crossed the Rockies by the Pine Pass he had no doubt he could find the way. During the afternoon Mr. Gunn,the Hudson's Bay Company's officer at Fort St. John, rode into camp. He had been paying a visit to Mr. Brick, the Anglican missionary, close at hand, and he proposed that we should go and call upon him. The Mission lay near the river, within three or four miles of the Catholic church ; and so, as the day was Sunday, we thought it best to ride without our rifies, in case we might break in upon some open-air service and seem too mundane to His Reverence. The trail was open and smooth, and the leaves of the young poplar-trees glittered wonderfully in the sunshine. Away up the valley we could see the fences and ploughed fields of the Anglican Mission, but the house was still hidden from us by the bush. Suddenly we heard a loud crash in the under- growth. The most inexperienced 'tender-foot' could c i J" A' I ill. i 4 » I I 'I' 34 THI' LAND or THE MUSKEG have told in an instant what was the cause of the commotion. When a horse or a cow is stampeded, it rushes headlong- forward, but to a certain extent it avoids small trees and dead branches ; a bear, however, crashes throusfh the bush without a moment's hesitation. We had hardly reined in our horses when the animal appeared. It was a black bear of immense size, standing nearly twelve hands high at the shoulder. He swung along at a lumber- ing canter within a few yards of us, but through our silly desire to please the missionary we had left our rifles behind and could do nothing. The shiny coat of the huge brute was wringing wet, and he seemed much exhausted, so th..it we made sure that he had only just crossed the river. Shouting to Mr. Gunn to ride forward and try and head off the bear, we turned our horses and raced back to camp for our rifles, but when we returned the bear had disappeared. Mr. Gunn said that the animal had been so exhausted that it could hardly move, and that he had ridden alongside of it for a con- siderable distance. But finally it had escaped him in some thick undergrowth, and had made for the hill. Half-way up it had b- jn obliged to rest, hanging out its tongue and panting like a dog, but finally it had recovered sufficiently to proceed, and had made off towards the timber on the upland. We knew that it would be useless to attempt to follow it, as the ground was hard, and it would have " V THli PKACF- UIVKR 35 left no tracks. Before long, however, we discovered the place where it had landed after crossing the river, and found the great foot-marks of the huge animal in the mud. The Peace was particularly broad and fast at this spot, so that it was no wonder that the bear was exhausted ; and we turned our horses towards the Mission again, feeling very cheap, and sorry for ourselves, John Gough Brick was standing at the door of his house when we rode up. He wore a large pair of moccasins on his feet, blue overalls covered his legs, surmounted by a long black frockcoat, a grey flannel shirt and a celluloid collar, Mr, Brick was kindness itself, entertaining us with a jovial hospitality that was past praise, and with a fund of Rabelaisian anecdote marvellous in its steady volume. I have heard that he has gained for himself quite a reputation as a raconteur in this particular line. And there can be no doubt that few ministers of the Church of England have so full and varied a vocabulary of purely secular language. He has a large farm near the river, which, as he told me, had been started as a school of Agricul- ture for the Indians. The game is fast disappear- ing from the country, and unless the natives are taught to raise crops and till the land, they will undoubtedly starve. But as Mr. Brick boisterously observed, ' I don't allow any of those damned Jh Ih I U'. m^'i' 'V'^l I w 36 I III". LAND OI" rill' MISKMG Indians round wi' place' He lias not even a rudimentary Unowledsj^c of the lan<;ua_<,re of his con<'rciration, and so would be (luite unable to preach in the native tonoue, ev(;n if he hatl a mind to. But he has resided at the Mission for some years, and he told me quite seriously that ' he knew the Cn:e for bread.' The Mission is, I believe, not financed by the Church of F. upland Missionary Society, although the liishop of Athabaska retains his hold over the place, which will return to the Society upon the death or retirement of the present occupant. Mr. Brick is, without doubt, a most capable and enerp^etic farmer, but he has, of course, no market for his produce, and so, althouL^h he can almost make a living' by his own industry, he cannot make sufficient to carry on the good work amongst the heathen {/.c. Catholic). Ac- cordingly, from time to time he makes pilgrimages to England, and there collects funds. If this gentleman appeared in the old country saying : ' I am an ex- cellent farmer ; I am a pioneer in a savage land ; I am an honest man, who works to support a wife and family. My life is hard, but I am opening up a JOHN KNOT nil'. I'i'Aci': ri\i:r 9-7 new centre for iniinii^n'ation,' no one could luuc^ anything- to say against the proceedini;-, althoiiL;h Mr. Hrick nii^ht not ac(iuire as mucli money as he tlocs .it present. lUit when on(? thinks of the needy people, who with many a stru<;Lile have subscribed their pittance that poor savay^es may gain knowledge and hear the gos[)el, the case alters consideral)ly. I<"or my own part, I beli(;ve that more ffood miuht be done nearer home bv the outlay of the same money ; and to me it seems particularly absurd to ket;p ministers of religion in a foreign land simply to convert the renmants of a dying race to Protestantism, when the Catholics have already made th<'m about as Christian as they are capable of being. However, it was impossible to know Mr. F>rick and be angry with the man; he was so plausible and so amusing that one forgot his faults in laughing at his sallies and highly seasoned humour. As there were many pigs and cattle round the place, we agreed to buy a calf from him. in order that we might lean as lightly as possible ui)on our provisions on the road to Dunvegan. Then we said ' Good-bye ' and returned to our camp. We had already hired another wagon from Mackenzie, so that we were ready to start, which we did upon th(; following morning. We rode, driving our pack-horses, whilst the Doctor drove beside the lay brother, and Mackenzie's m .< I /•I ■A H 38 Till-: LAND 01- Till-: MlSKia. boy brouj^ht on his own vvae^on behind. Round and Pollen went down to Brick's with one pack- horse to fetch away the calf which Mr. Brick had promised to kill for us, arrangint^ to meet us at luncheon-time upon the trail. They arrived at the Mission, and were shown the carcass of the calf han'nntr in the slau<ducr-house. Now this buildinfj stood within a log palisade, fourteen feet high and wonderfully solid. We had com[)limented Mr. Brick upon his meat-safe on the previous evening, and had examined the structure, being much struck with its strength and careful construction. Pollen was not up in the details of the butcher's trade, but Round had had much experience during his long residence in the country, and therefore did not fail to remark that the liver, brains, and sweet- bread were absent from their accustomed places, which fact he pointed out to Mr. Brick. This gentleman was loud in his apologies, saying that he was more sorry than words could express, but that a dog must have jumped over the palisade during the night and carried off these portions. The thing was of no importance to us, but I give it as an example of the high intelligence and great activity of the Indian dog. The trail was good, and we marched on at a rapid pace until lunch time. But we had hardly commenced to cook the veal when we were joined by an Indian, named Nistamapu, who seemed ■ ■ THIv PI- AC!' RIVl'R 39 passionately devoted to calf. After the meal he came and rode with us, discoursing loudly ui)on the country and the chances of game by the roadside. He was by profession an orator, and made his living by attaching himself to camps where there was plenty of food. He would eat his fill and then deliver speeches, and would remain with his en- tertainers until their stock of provisions (or forbear- ance) was exhausted, when he would suddenly make up his mind to depart. He had been born on the plains, and so could tell the wood- land Indians many stories of blood and adventure and of the departed glories of his race. When a band of Indians from the plains comes to the camp of a different tribe, they halt, and send one of their number forward, who sits down by the lire, and is in fact a sort of pledge of good faith. Our friend had been born just as such a herald had entered the lodge, and so had been called Nistamapu — the first to sit down. That night we camped by a marshy pool, named Old Wives' Lake, where the water was almost too nasty to drink. Nistamapu evidendy intended to clear us out of food as quickly NISTAMArf r l'\ ■m i(SHH" MvaiB T 40 rni' I AM) oi' Tiir: Mrs'«:i':(; t n I' ■'* a:; po;isii)le, for he ate enormously. In this he was joinijd by Mackenzie's relative, who drove our second waL^on. and whom we named the Gluttonous Bov. The da\ s were w'arm, but the nitrhts ver\'^ chilly ; the most[uitoes, however, did nol appear to feel the cold, and hummed round our nets in hundreds. On the second dav out from the Mission we met Mr. Tait, the Hudson's Bay Company officer at Dunvci^an, and bought two more horses. Torrents of rain fell all tlie afternoon, hut we pushed forward and arrived at Dunveiian about ten on the foUov/- ■■'■ \.-^h^'»^' ■I ing morning. We had imagined A ^^ 7- -w Al.HEKT TAir that it was about twelve o'clock, but found that we had mistaken the hour, and started at three in the morning by accident. Mr. Tait lent us a room in his house, where we slept, and very glad we were of this friendly shelter, for the rain fell contmuously. Fort Dunvegan is a charming little place, lying cloje to the river between high bluffs. Round had i'ved there for fourteen \ears as a Hudson's Bay Comptny officer in charge, and was quite devoted to the place, which he had never thought to see again. Here, as a young man, he had captured a fuiiitive white murderer, and had jrained the name of 'Shymaganis' — the soldier. Every Indian in the camp beyond the fort knew him well, and greeted i '1 wmmmm 1 i« '<\- i' THi: I'l-Aci' Ri\i:k 41 him with respect and enthusiasm as a master and a friend. One night as we sat round the warm stove in the fort we heard hurried whisperings at the door and a wild figure rushed into t!ie room, apparently im- ploring our aid in the native tongue, It seemed that his wife had been chopping w'ood and had cut her leg off — or c,o at least he said The Doctor brought out his instruments and medicines, and we started for the encampment with the anxious husband. Seven or eight lodges w^ere pitched in the little prairie, and shone white and brown in the firelight. Our guide led us towards one of these, and showed us the unfortunate patient. The sight was wild beyond description. On the right rose the huge smoke-blackened lodge. Just before the door a shelter of green branches had been erected, and under this lay the woman, moaning with pain, and wrapped in a many-coloured blanket. Around her sat a score of her friends, chanting slowly and solemnly a wordless song, and beating time upon a tom-tom. Their wild faces and long straight hair stood out sharp in the firelight, whilst their rairued bodies were faint and indistinct In the uloom. As their song rose louder and louder the woman's moan rose with it and then died away with the lower notes of the tune. The Doctor examined the wound, and found that it was not so serious as we had been led to suppose. The bone was not broken, but the leg \^' ■¥• ,,. 'if ','1 \t ^ i i (V 42 THE LAND Ol THE MUSKEG was badly cut and bruised, and caused th*- patient considerable pain. He began to dress the injured limb — a few grains of morphia were adminis- tered, and the woman C(^ased moaning. This im- pressed her friends enormously, and they gathered round, wondering at the power of the great white medicine-man, which had accomplished more than all their chanting and bandaging. Then they boiled a kettle for us, and we syringed the wound. If you would cure an Indian you must impress him with the difficulty of the proceeding, and so, instead of tjoing about the business in an ordinary loiM lUNVK.iAN fashion, we squirted water throu'di a loner india-rubbc. tube, and watched the terrified pleasure on the face of the sufferer. There was no more chantiniT now, for a feeling of awe had come over the group of savages as they watched the mysterious doings of the great white man. But our Doctor did not rise to the occasion, and so we had to act the bedside manner for him. When we left the camp the woman was asleep ami her friends silent. But we had hardly got beyond the circle of firelight when they fell to chanting again, and so continued throu^jfh the entire night. Till' liCACI' RIXIiR 43 Ever since we left the Athabaska Landing- we had been in the country of the Crees. I was told that they are not really natives of the soil, but simply an offshoot of the Crees who inhabit the plains, and that they had driven the original inhabitants out of the district. At all events no other Indians live in the country, although there is nothing to prevent their doing so if they have a mind to. The Crees themselves, however, wander all over the district, which by rights belongs to the Beaver Indians. The two tribes are entirely dissimilar, both in ap- pearance and language, and retain to a certain extent a hostile feeling towards each other. Pnit as ill tribal authority is at an end there is no open -:'.rife or fixed territorial boundary between them. And so the Crees trespass upon the hunting-ground of their neighbour with impunity, thinking that the Beavers are not worth noticing — and, as they say, 'scarcely human.' If the tribal feeling had been retained, and the whole nation moved under the direction of a chief and council of elders (as it did until recently), this state cf affairs would be impos- sible. But as it is. the missionaries and Hudson's Bay officers are the only chiefs, and the) very naturally wish for nothing but [)eace. At present each member of a tribe is socially as good as any other, except in so far as the one excels the other in hunting, and therefore in the number of his horses and the length of his credit with the Company. II p- m .. I. m, \ ... -.— ^'-"W J M .M.MiJ ^^T h 't! i: t L .^'* 11 1'^ «» "i' •i il 44 rill' LAND ()!■ THI- MISKMO And though the Crees despise the Beavers as an inferior race, this feeling is more personal than tribal. The Cree Indians are, for the most part, dark, spare men, showing many of the usual characteristics of the aborigines of the continent, but of peaceful disposition and great charm of manner. They speak an exceedingly beautiful language, and converse with ease and iluency, pro- nouncing their words with wonderful distinctness, and showing their meanini'- with many well-considered gestures. Their chief topic of conversation is naturally hunting, for by this they gain their living, but they seem also to be very fond of tale-telling, and now and again one may hear legends and fables from the older men, which speak of the times when the game was more plentiful in the country, and consequenth men had more time for talk. I have set down two such tales" here, as I think they may be of interest The first recalls the Welsh story of Gelert, and one would be curious to know if it is current amongst other peoples. Thus runs the tale : — A 1 ISll SI'F.AR THii piiAci-: ki\i<:r 45 There was once a young man who was \'ery poor ; his father and mother and all his relations had been killed in a raid, and he was left alone in the world with no friend but his faithful doL^. So he journeyed for many days, picking up a living as best he could. One day he came to the lodf^e of an ' Oukimow,' or big chief. Now this chief had everything that he could possibly want — fine clothes, many wuves, and the most beautiful cooking-pots. But above all he had a lovely daughter. This lucky man had a bow which was enchanted. Whatever he shot at with his arrows died, so he had always plenty of meat hanging in his camp, and no one dared quarrel with him, for if they did, they were sure to be killed. The mystery of the bow was a secret, but the great man's daughter had learned it from her father, and now she told it to this young man who had become her lover. But the chief found this out, so he drove him away, and again he wandered, thinking of the lovely girl, and full of rage at her father's treatment. One day when he was asleep under a birch-tree he was avv'akened by the Old Wanderer '—the cunning one— who asked him what service he could render him. So he told his story, saying that he was very an.xious to kill the big Chief of the Bow, in order that he might marryhisdaughter, ' This ' Wamlorer' .inpeais many times in Indian legend. He seems to he an evil spirit, with a strong tendency towards good. Thus he will henetit some unlucky person and yet he called 'the evil and cunning one' hy the narrator. Wii f |!'J ' » 46 THE LAND OF THE MUSKE(; M but that he knew he could not prevail aijainst the magic weapon, and therefore h*" had not tried. Now the Wanderer knew all things, and he told him that the spell was broken since the tale of the bow had been told, and that he might safely go and kill his enemy. However, he said that he would make the matter certain, and provide the young man with another magic bow. So he told him to ' cut down the birch-tree and make fiom it a Low and arrow, and make a bow-string from the fibres of the bark, and when you have done this,' he said, 'call me.' The young man made the weapon and the string, and called. And the Wanderer came and spoke the magic word, and gave the bow to the young man, telling him that the arrow would hit whatever he lired i'.t, but that he was only to use it once, against his enemy. So the young man went and slew the ' Oukimow,' and became chief of the tribe, and married the girl, and owned the fine clothes and beautiful cooking-pots. In his new greatness he became very haughty. So the ' Wanderer ' appeared and told him to go and do honour to the birch-tree ; but he was proud, and did not do it, saying that no harm would come. After a while a son was born to him. And the whole tribe feasted, and he said to his people. ' Let us so and honour the birch-tree.' And thev all went. But instead of doing it honour he took a whip and lashed it, making the marks which Tin- I'liAci-: ri\-i-:r 47 may be seen upon the bark to this clay. Tlien came the 'Wanderer' a third time, and told him that his son was dead because of his sin. He hasten( > home and saw his dog standing over the cradle covered with blood. Then he was wild with rage and shot at the dog with the magic bow ; and the arrow flew and killed the dog, but pierced his son as well, and he came and saw many dead wolves around the cradle, and realised that his faithful dog had protected the child, and that he had lost his son through disobedience to the laws of the ' Cunnincr One.' The second tale is the Cree version of the Flood, in which the ' Wanderer ' appears again, this time as Noah. The main oudine of the story closely re- sembles the Biblical account, but it will be observed that the dove has been changed into the beaver to suit the local taste, and also that their habit of dam- building is accounted for. Once the whole earth was covered with water, but the ' Wanderer ' was in a big canoe with many kinds of animals ; and after he had been on the water for many days without seeing land, he de- termined to send an animal to dive down to see if the water \v^as still deep, or if the flood were abat- ing ; so he sent down a young beaver. But the little animal was afraid to dive too deep, and re- turned, saying that he saw nothing but water and no land. Then the ' Wanderer ' was verv an<rrv •1 f I Li'ilf \ 48 riii-: i.ANi) ()!• ini' miskix; I I'l; ."1 ♦ I,- for he knew all things, and knew that ihc little beaver had not done his b'3st, therefore he cursed him, saying, ' Cursed shalt thou be ; thou shalt never grow, nor thy tail grow, but thou shalt only imitate the beavers.' And this was the first musk-rat. Then he sent a big beaver, and he swam and reached the bottom, and brought a little earth up with him to the side of the canoe, and there he died. So the 'Wanderer' took the grains of earth and blew upon them, and the world arose and was dry. And he blessed the beavers, and said that they should always try to dam the streams and stop them running, lest they might again flood the whole earth. This tale has not been inspired by the mission- aries, as one might be led to suppose ; but is a part of the original folklore of the people them- selves. It is diflicult to say what their religion originally was, but it may be presumed that it was a sort of nature-worship combined with great superstition and fear of ghosts, whicli, of course, was fostered by the tribal medicine-men. The Beaver or Tsuten IndicUis inhabit the districts between Fort Dunvegan and the Rocky Mountains. They are allied to the great Dene family of aborigines, which occupies the entire contiiiC'A'J. between the Saskatchewan and the Arctic Ocean (with the exception of the country of the Crees). This vastly scattered nation has not Tin; I'l'ACK klVl.R 49 » completely retained its characteristics durinq- its various wanderin-s, so that the different tribes chvellinc. in far-distant places speak separate lan.nruaoes. lUit for all that they are of the same stock. The Beavers themselves are but a very iiisio-nificant branch, numberin- not more tlian c:i<iht hundred. They are for the most part small, angular men, and most repulsively uqdy. They are far behind the Crees in their n"anners and habits, which are ^•ery disoustino-. Their lancruai^e IS made u], of guttural cluckings and hesitatioiL They are most unhealthy, suffering much from indigestion, consumption, and scrofula-in fact, they are by no means a charming people. It is said moreover, that they are rapidly becoming extinct' Like the Crees. they have lost all tribal organisa- tion, and recognise no superior but the white man Their old chief (who is chief only in name) is however, still living at Dunvegan, and is a' sufficiently remarkable old man. His name appears on the records as a fort-hunter in 1826. Now it has always been the custom in the Company to employ experienced men as hunters, and it may ■safely be presumed that no exception is made in this mans favour. All the other hunters at Dunvegan at the time appear to have been about thirty years of age, and even if ' 'i^ranquille ' was younger he would by now be ninety years old. He had earned his name through his endeavours I) 1' i 50 Till' LAM) 01 llir: Ml SKl-Ci •flt ; <■ to pacify his tribe duriiiL; the Cireat Rebellion in the South. In this he had been entirely successful. That was during the days of his power. But when he began to grow old his son had usurped his place as chief, and when he died the old man was too feeble to take up the reins of govern- ment again, and soauthorit)had died out in the tribe, and the great man had fallen upon the charity of the Hudson's Bay C o m p a n )-. When we saw him he was entirely blind, and quite awful to look upon. He was in his wheel-barrow going up to his meal at the fort. His shirt was open, and the poor withered old chest and skeleton arm were a pitiful sight. He had married again a short time before we arrived, and suspecting that his wife was not so dutiful as she CIIIKI' TkANyLlLLK I nil. ri;.\CM ki\i:r 5' ind, :ful sht mii,4u be, he had d(;tcrmined to iiuinU.'r her. So lie sat ilowii ill his lotli^e with a knife in his hand and lunged round into the darkness. Hut fortun- ately for her, heinij^ ([uitc blind, he did no harm, and the offendiiiL^ spouse did not come to the untimely death he had intended for h(;r, but I fancy her nerves were a o'ood deal shaken by the ferocity of her aged husband. At DunveL^an we met another old man of nearly eighty years of age — one T we 1 v <; f o o t Davis — a white ma)\ famous throughout the country. He had been a sj^old miner for many years, and had made a large sum of money on a neglected claim twelve feet square. This had hap[)encd in the old days of the great Cariboo mines, and his fame and nick- name had spread far and wide. When we saw him he was a free trader and a rival to the Hudson's Bay Company, but as he could neither read nor write, it may be inferred that he was not *. t^ » -' .*■- 4^1 ./' ;, -i^' ■ ,' C ■•>. 1 1, r--^ "•- ■^"' V / ' IS^^' twi;lvi-,i-(j()T DAVIS IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) A {/ 1.0 I.I fM IIM i« 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" — ► V] c*m. f ^^ % ^/. y >^ Photograpliic Sciences Corporation s. ip ,\ 4 V \\ ^9> V #> <? ^ 6^ ^ '1? 9) w> 73 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 .^ <' WJ>. JP & '> I [it Itl I"!-:' f<t : t l^ 52 UN' i-.\M) oi' I HI' MrsKi:(i makiiiLj^ niucli by the business. Every year he would travel into the country with his store of t^oocls for barter, and sometimes he would winter upon the banks of the Teace. One winter he was livinir with four other men in a log cabin near a place called Hudson's Mope. An officer of the Com- jjany was livini,^ within ten or twelve miles, and feelincr lonely about Christmas-time, he sent a note to Davis wishin<,^ him the usual compliments of the season and a happy new year for 1892. Davis's friends happened to be away when the note came, so the free trader, thinking that something of importance had occurred, opened the letter and studied it carefully. As he could not read, he was entirely unable to find out its meaning; but, guessing that his correspondent was unwell, sent him the only medicine he thought at all effica- cious — to wit, a couple of liottles from his scant store of whisky. When his friends returned he solemnly told them that the Hudson's Bay officer was ill, and had written for two bottles of whisky, and that he had of course sent them to help the lonely man in his distress. This seemed a some- what sericis matter, so the letter was asked for ; and then the old man was told that the officer was neither ill nor had asked for spirits. ' It was that darned 2 set me wrong,' was Davis's explanation. The joy of the officer at receiving the unexpected present may be imagined, whilst Davis's rage at 1= I ) M ■' THM I'I'ACI-; Ki\i:u )3 parti ni]^ with so valuable a possession knew no bounds ; and to this day he declares that somehow or other he was cheated out of his whi'^ky, and that no man has a ri^ht to say that he is dyin*,^ when he is quite well. At Dunvegan we stayed for some days makings JOHN Till; iiAi'Ti'-rs ii.\L(;iii i;ks up our packs and arranginq^ our saddles and pro- visions for the great march in the bush. Mr. Tait had helped us in every way. and both he and his wife had entertained us royally, so that again it was with a feeling of regret that we started out on our r 54 THI-: LAND OI" THE MUSKl-G real expedition. Before everythinii^ else we had to get our horses across the Peace River. Here there was no friendly scow to help us, but only two dug- out^ canoes of moderate size. In these we crossed our goods, making many voyages under the guid- ance of John Knot and Daukhan, who were expert canoe-men. Finally, on July 27th, we set to work to cross the horses. John the Baptist — Daukhan's brother — helped us in this ; in fact we left the whole business in native hands, for it requires much practice to swim horses across so large and rapid a stream, and any mistake of a bungling amateur may mean the loss of a valuable animal. Three or four of our beasts of burden w^ere led down to the river together. A rope was tied round the neck of the steadiest, and he was led into the water. Then the men in the foremost canoe took the rope and started slowly, so that the animal might leave the shallows and begin to swim without being hurried or confused. Meanwhile the other men drove the loose horses into the water after the leader, and followed in a second canoe, shouting and iruidincr the animals as best they could. The poor brutes snorted in the rapid stream, and were often nearly carried away ; but in the end they all reached the farther shore without accident, althouofh somewhat exhausted by their long swim. Round told me that he had seen a horse swim the river at this ' Dii^-on( — i.e. hoUoweil from a Iroc-triink. HI i ■^ Till': n-ACi-: hivi:r 55 place with its front feet tied and hobbled, which any one can believe who has seen what an old and experienced animal will do on dry land when thus hampered. That night we camped on the southern bank of the river. LU- 1- CHAPTER III DAUKHAN AND THE BEARS I u ' ' i i Wk were now really making a start on our ex- pedition. All this time we had been more or less under the wing of the great Comoany, but at last we were ready, and had only to pack the horses and start away into the bush. This put us all into the very highest of spirits, and even Daukhan seemed to feel that he had become a person of great im- portance as the guide and hunter of the party. We had given him a new rifle and a great buffiilo-knife, and with these he was delighted beyond measure. These buffalo-knives are of English manufacture, being made, I believe, by Unwin of Sheffield, and we found them of the greatest use. The blade is about nine inches long, and very thick at the back, the whole knife weighing about three pounds. They are invaluable for chopping under-brush, being far handier than an axe, and yet they are not cumbersome to carry, and can be used for skinning large animals or any such work. Daukhan sat looking at his new possession — his 'amukooman,' as he called it, and discoursed to us upon its many merits. I rheStntiAt Jtirerut report**/ Utrtu-tntf t/utyr unfMi'tunt trikutmnex ^ fronitht^We»t,ahof9t/aMpottti i^ M/' tiriutd CoupFlttt. tfte llai-rupi/ie ^■^^\* , and thif She*=p» DUNVEQAN TOJFOR' XnglisTi ltUe!> (6. mam wS^ WVEQAN TO rOBT M'LEOD. JBnghsTi MiUs ffiSMl'J p ^ \f\ 'I r ■s. : 1 I'M 1 ; 1; DAiKiiw AM) ini: r.i:\Ks 5: On the following mornini; \vc bcij^an packini^ the horses. Now packing is an art that may not be learned in a short tinu'. I'ollen and 1 had had a considerable; amount of practice both in the southern Rockies and in California. Round, Daukhan, and John were experts, l^'or my part I confess that I had acquired but a slight knowledge KOlMl AMI I'dl.l.l N I'AI MM. ■ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^m^^ft % -•*■■" X . ., '-' ' • 1 \s % ' t ■ »■ . » .■ t of the art, as I have never been either strong or heavy erough to get the requisite pull on the lash- rope. Ar.d so it happened that the task of packing fell to the other four, whilst Ramsey, the Doctor and I busied ourselves with the other duties of camp. And there was much to be done. Let me describe the usual routine of a morning's work in Ml 1 58 TIM' LAND OI- TIM' MUSKHC } I I.. camp. First, the fire must be made up and break- fast prepared. Then, whilst the tent is beintj furled and the beds tightly rolled up, two or three of the party go out and bring in the horses, no light work, for the fourteen horses may be very widely scattered. Meanwhile the pack-saddles and saddle-blankets are sorted, and each pack, tightly rolled and roped, is placed near its own saddle ready to be fixed upon the back of the horse to which it belongs. Every- thing having been made ship-shape, the horses are saddled, and then the really hard work commences. A man stands on each side of a horse, and, lifting up a bundle weighing anything from fifty to one hundred pounds, fixes it to the side of the saddle with a small rope called a sling-rope. When both side-packs are secured, the top-pack is placed between the two burdens, and a cloth is thrown over the whole ; round this is thrown the lash- rope, a thick cord about forty feet long. This is passed round the pack in various ways, as the case demands, and runs over the girth under the animal's belly, the men handing the ' loose ' to each other in regular order, and pulling on the rope with one foot braced against the pack or horse's side. When all is made as tight as can be, the animal is turned loose, whilst the attention of the packers is given to the next horse. Meanwhile the knives and plates have been washed and the kitchen-horse packed, and at last the expedition gets under DAIKHAN AM) Illl. IMIAUS 59 way. As may be imai^incd, all this talcL-s time, and is besides so laborious that one is in some dejj^rce exhausted before the day's march l)eL,Mns. The great thing to be remembered about all wild travel on the American Cv ntinent is that each man must do his share to the best of his ability, so the work should fall evenly upon all members of an expedition. On the mor ling of our start we had a very hard time. The horses were fresh, and continued to buck off the packs as fast as we rixeu iliem, and we soon saw that we had not nearly enough animals to carry our possesr.ions. Of c*. irse we sh<juld walk, but even then we found that several of the liuises were carrying two hundred and fifty and sometimes three hundred pounds, and we knew that they could not hope to travel over a rough country with such heavy burdens. However, we decided to move on to the plateau above and then to consider what had best be done. We had cut down our baggage as far as possible, but we were afraid to send back any of our stores, as we had a long trip before us, and we did not wish to go hungry, Finally, we got a couple more horses from Mr. Tait, and with this new addition we started gaily enough towards the unknown. We were following the Indian pitching trail which led towards Pouce Coupee's Prairie, and we made up our minds to march as fast as our heavily packed horses would allow, and not to rest until we . t'fr I '/ 60 Till': LAM) OI" THI': MISKIU; came to this plain, where we meant to make a camp and hunt. The country was open and very lovely, but dotted here and there with clumps and lines of low bush and small poplar. Lon_c^ grass and great patches of red lilies grew in the o[)en meadows across which the little trail ran. A pitching trail is a small path made by the feet of the pack-horses which are always driven across the country in a h -.,*'^''^./* ■ ^ .^.S^--'''^^r^^ ■ Y' w ' riiK iiousi'.s \\i:ui; iii.wii.v i.adkn 11 i ll 'string,' or what is called Indian file. As the natives follow these paths as much as possible, and clear the bush and branches out of the road as they go, the way, where it is frequented, becomes tolerably well marked, and is beaten into a shallow trough by years of use. In several places we saw bear-tracks, and very occasionally the footprints of moose in the deeper woods, but none of these were fresh enough (1 w DAIKHAN AND TH' 6i to justify a halt, and so we concinu: : - Tnaixi- The nights were cleir and froscv. :t.r. v :; : i:r!r rain held off we slept in the opea umicr i.r rrr-^ -imcf- nets, as we found this much nrrr- :f-;i^->aiz i:.l:; huddlinLT tOLrethcr in a tent. W-; : . . ti x -r^'in fast, as the horses were heavilv: .ui.:u:i- im: c:: of condition, so that it was not untjl die: rniri ^^ mai we crossi 1 the Rat River and ■iZin'^.L rm: lite poplar forest. The trees i^n^w -k^ ifi --- i'«_:tiiiitT 'MANY OF THK TKE!:? x :;xE iom: >y :s, le rh that the sky was obscured, and aociinv;: ~rSiz ht seen but the ^j;reen leaves overiitt:a5 zit^ iniDt under-brush below, and the grear wtnntr rs.t:r-:- and branches around us. Many of rfn^ -rr— - •: ■-^- rottinjT as they stood, and leaned on* a i:<t'~ - ^ _ : - bours, ready to fall at the least ti:u.cn^ "-nrr .^} a pack-horse brushed against one :f -nt:^ aiad 62 THi: LAND OI< THI-: MUSKMC. ii I' m broui,rht it down with a crash. As ill luck would have it, Pollen was walking a little in front. Seeing his danger, I shouted to him to look out. and, ducking his head and hunching his shoulders, he avoided the full force of the blow. But for all that, the tree descended with great violence upon his head, knocking him senseless to the ground. The trunk was some sixty feet long, and of considerable thickness, and it seemed a marvel that he was not killed. If it had fallen fairly upon him he must have been. We made camp at once, and did what we could for him, but he was suffering a good deal of pain, and thought that he was about to have concussion of the brain. The whole of that night the rain beat down in torrents, and the thunder rolled in the forest with appalling violence. We fully expected to find that Pollen, unable to continue the march, would be forced to return to Dunvegan. On the next day, however, he revived a little, and on the third day expressed his readiness to march. So we moved a short distance over a very swampy trail — he was too seedy to go far, — and again we camped near some most: unpleasant swamps. All through the country the water was very nasty, and in some places almost undrinkable. Pollen's accident cost us a day in camp, and one or two half-marches ; but luckily he soon mended, and in a week was quite well again. And so for ten days we marched in the forest, often sleeping i IMIKHAX AND Tin; DliAKS 63 in swamps and muske-s. and generally drenched durmg the greater part of the day. The mosquitoes and bull-dog flies still followed us in clouds and covered the horses. Once we came to a place where a great forest fire had raged. It seemed as though a strong wind had been blowino- at the time, or since, for the charred trunks lay piled upon the ground in such wild confusion that we were forced to make a long detour. The awful effect of these fires is a wonderful thing to see Huge tracts and districts have been burnt out in the North-West, and present a melancholy appear- ance. In most cases the trees remain standin<r for many years, whilst wild raspberry and such^'like bushes choke the ground. Sometimes, however the wmd fells the wreckage, and the black logs and twisted branches make the country wellnigh im- passable. We found that we were using our pro- visions too rapidly, so we set a limit to our meals giving three slices of bacon to each man per meal' with unlimited bread. In this way we lived very vyell, and on the tenth day after leaving Dunveoan sighted a raised and open plateau, which Daukhan declared to be Pouce Coupee's Prairie. After fording two small riv^ers. we climbed the hiH and marched along the ridge for about ten miles. The grass was long, and very tiring to walk through, so that we were all pretty welf ex- hausted when we made camp. The prairie is a ' ' w— ii— p M in , 64 Tin- LAM) Oi- Tin- .MlSKi:(i fine piece of open country, dry and fertile. Many years ago, the Beaver Indian chief, Pouce Coupee, settled here with about five hundred followers, who constituted themselves a separate tribe. But a fever broke out amongst them, and when their chief returned from his hunt one winter he found their lodges empty and their bodies lying round the ashes of the camp-fires, half-eaten by the wolves and cayotes. Of the flourishing colony not one f I ""i 'Tin-; GKASS WAS I.ONi; AMI VI-.HV TIKISC;' fl remained but the old man, its founder, who is said to have returned to Dunvegan, and to have died there many years afterwards. We found that our camping-ground was not a good one, as the water was tepid, and so nasty that the tea was almost undrinkable. However, we had some cocoa (pig's blood, the Indians call it), and so managed very well. On the following day we moved on about five miles, and camped near a small swamp, where we succeeded in p':king up some ducks, DAIKHAN AM) THI-: HHARS 65 Many )upee, i, who But a r chief I their id the wolves ot one which came as a welcome change after our diet of bacon. Daukhan had been exploring the neighbour- hood in search of bear-tracks, and killed a small beaver, which we ate. We found the meat fairly good, but a tritle strong. On the following day, Daukhan, Round, Pollen, and I rode over a con- siderable area of country looking for bear-tracks, but found none. Daukhan, however, said that he had seen the track of a yearling moose, and so it was arranged that he should go after it on the 3 is sa id :e died IV s not a isty that we had and so e moved swamp, ducks. ^ 3 ■ wi: move;) on ahoi"t iivk milks' morrow, whilst we continued to search for bear- tracks in the opposite direction. Moose-stalking is the most difficult operation in a bushed country, and it is practically useless for a white man to ■'ttempt it. Indeed, there are but few Indians who can be sure of killing this animal, which is without doubt the most wary of the deer tribe. Of course, in an easy country, the moose may be shot by any moderate hunter ; but when the ground is com- E 66 THI-: LAND OF THIi MUSKF.G \ il >'* J! ! plctely covered with dry twigs, and when there is much hush, the difficulty is increased many-fold. In the winter the Indians follow the moose upon snow-shoes, thus gaining some advantage in pace. There is a popular superstition abroad, to the effect that a man can go more rapidly over the snow on snow-shoes than upon open ground on his feet. This of course is not the case, at least when the netted American shoe is used. It is true that an expert can run, and even jump, when wearing them, but they are worn simply to prevent a man's sink- ing into the snow. As the moose sinks belly-deep at every step, he tires comparatively soon, and an Indian who is a good traveller is able to overtake it, although he is sometimes obliged to follow the animal for seven or eight days in succession. The hardships which the Indians endure on these expedi- tions are very remarkable. They can carry but little food with them, and have no covering except their walking clothes ; they sleep for a few hours by a fire at night, and resume before daybieak the march, which they had prolonged far into the previous evening. Sometimes, when they are close upon the moose, they are unable to light a fire for fear of alarming him, and then they will curl themselves up under a bush and sleep with the thermometer at fifty and sixty degrees below zero, or keep moving to avoid being frozen. When they have killed the animal, they bring their I 1. I 1 there is nany-fold. )ose upon J in pace, the effect : snow on his feet, when the le that an •ing them, an's sink- Delly-deep n, and an overtake follow the Ion. The se expedi- y but little :cept their s by a fire le march, previous lose upon a fire for will curl with the elow zero, I. When ring their DAUKHAX AM) thJ.: IHIARS 67 edges and fl.milies and camp near the carcass feascng and hving in idleness until the meat is l^^one, when hunger again obliges then, to seek f<,r rcsh game. This alternate feasting and starving soon undermn.cs their constitutions, and many o'f them become the victims of dyspepsia and sin.ilar con.^un.. wh.h. with scrofula, are extermina^ mg the Beaver tribe. As thov -iro ..^f i • • 1 • ^s uicy are utterly minro- vKlent, many of them die of starvation, which mLh t be prevented by a little care even in ,his desohte Daukhan followed his moose, but found that it was travjelhng, and so left the trail and returned to camp. Meanwhile Pollen and I had discovered a 1^' «;-'y/-k, and had left our horses nd followed ,t for some distance, but lost it in a swamp. We returned to camp and told Daukhan nd on the ne.t day started out again with h m s.de of a small stream to the north of the prairie The grass was long, and the bear had left I broTd ^wmdi^ up the slopes and amongst Ih:^ Several ttmes we came upon other tracks, but Daukhan pronounced these old, although to our unpracfsed eyes they looked exactly siniHar to tl e f-sh one. Daukhan did some verv pretty sta ki I and seemed ciuite confident that he'cot.ld fm I' bear. IJ ,t ,t ,vas all to no purpose. The anin,a^ had wandered in circle.: =„A u : animal circles, and had crossed his own 1 1' 'f 1 i^^Vi mm ^M 68 Tin- LAND OI' Till' MlSKl'C. track so often that the whole hillside was lined and much of the grass beaten down. Finally, it became evident that the bear was moving himself, so we remounted, and beat a large piece of bush, galloping for about a mile through the underbrush as fast as we could, in ho[)es that we should cut him off and come to quarters ; but we saw nothing, and only got very much scratched by the thorns. Round indeed declared that he had heard the bear movinir. but rill. I'KAii;!!-: I . we could find no trace of him, so we returned to camp, feeling rather low. Daukhan had done some wonderful stalking, and it was only by chance that we had missed the animal. He was, however, very disconsolate at his failure. It seems a curious thing that no definite conclu- sion has yet been arrived at concerning the number of different kinds of bear to be found in North America. Men talk of roach-backs and cinnamons. I liAl KUAN AM) Tin; luvVKS 69 incd and ; became f, so we ^allopinrr LS fast as off and only got .1 indeed 'ini::, but returned ad done y' chance lowever, conclu- n umber 1 North namons, I silver-tips, and black and brown and grizzly bears, as though they were separate breeds ; and indeecl many thnik so. I think that the real reason of this IS that m each place the animals are called by diHerent names. Thus in Wyoming the griz/Iy is known as silver-tip, and so on. In the north, at all events, there an- only three kinds of bear. In the far north there is the polar bear. Next comes the grizzly bear, which does not differ from the grizzly of California or the silver-tip of Wyoming. 'I hen there is the common black bear, which ?s sometimes brown. Daukhan told me that he had absolute proof of this, as he had found a black bear with a black and a brown cub, just as the silver and cross foxes, and indeed red foxes, are all found together in the same litter. It has been suggested that there is sometimes a cross between the'^grizzly and the black bear; but Daukhan said he thought that this was out of the question, as the urir/ly persecutes the smaller animal. He declared that this was the reason why the black bear keeps so nuich to the wood, as it is able to escape from its enemy by climbing. He also said that more than once he had come upon the scene of one of the encounters, and had found the black bear literally torn to pieces, so that its skin was not worth dress- ing or curing ; and in such cases the black bear was not necessarily a male. Daukhan himself is a noted bear-hunter, havin-r fTossBBm&mwmm i t \l I \l 70 nil' l-AM) OI- IIII' Ml SKI'C; killed a wonderful number of these animals — j)ro- bably not less than 1 20 grizzlies alone, as may be proved by the entries in the fort journal at Dunvegan. He told us the story of one of his early adventures, which must certainly have been sufficiently exciting. A cousin of his. one Thomas, had been badly mauled by a particularly ferocious grizzly, and had been carried to his father's lodge in an almost dying condition. Daukhan no sooner learned this than, as he put it, he knew he must kill that bear. But he was only nineteen, the bear was evidently a very ' bad ' one, and his father flatly forbade his going after it. It seems that in the 'i'ustowitz family parental authority was supreme. It was therefore useless to attempt to gainsay his father, more especially as the stern parent had taken away his only rifle. So now he did not dare to tell his family that he was going after this one, but quietly took an old single-barrelled muzzle-loading shot-gun and a few caps, and told his father that he would shoot a few rabbits for supper. Then he started out and reached the place where his cousin had been found. Arrived there, he found a little open space, and on the farther side, amongst the bushes, he could hear the grizzly feeding. It was too thick to try to get at him. His only chance was to draw the bear into the open. He therefore stood out, and snapped a dead stick with his fingers. The grizzly f DAIKIIAN AM) llll- lU'ARS 71 Is— pro- as may irnal at l: of his vc been riiomas, crocious •'s lodge sooner new he lineteen, and his [t seems )rity was ;empt to le stern now he is ^lo'inix barrelled ind told jbits for led the Arrived on the lear the to get le bear )ut, and grizzly was on its hind-legs in an instant, and, looking round, saw him. Without a moment's hesitation the grizzly {iiiysia/iia) had rushed out upon him 'roaring like a bull. Me had only the small muzzle-loader, and his caps were cracked and wet, so that if he did not kill at the first shot he was done for. Daukhan waited until the bear was almost upon him, and then fired and jumped cpiickly aside, ■ III, HAD ONI.V Till. ^MAI.l. MlV./l.i;-I.().\lil.lJ grasping at his side for his hunting-knife. Then he remembered that his father had taken this from him with the rifle. Hut his suspense was soon over, for the huge animal rolled over dead at his feet. I had been told the story of this youthful escapade before, so that I had no doubt of the truth of the tale ; and I have always thought it one of the pluckiest things I have ever heard. 72 Tin- i.ANi) ()!• rm- MrsKi-c Daukhan lcllin,Lj a bear story was porfiiclly spU.'iuIid. All Crc.'c Indians ust; i^cstiires in conversation, but DauUhan had a little French blood in his veins, and this, I suppose, i^ave him his extraordinary j^racc and ex|)ressiveness of motion. I lis father had been a cattle-herder to the Com- I < tf\ » (M "nil. IIL(ii; AM.MAI, KOI.I.I'.U OVIK DIAI) [)any at Fort Etlmonton in the old days, and was famous as a stron^f and darinqf man. He had once killed a grizzly unassisted, with a bow and arrow. It seems that a lari^^e party of Indians were attempt- ing to kill a very large bear which was hibernating during the winter. The bear, however, had sud- denly wakened up, and made a rush for the entrance DAIKII W AM) nil III AkS 73 Com- ic! was once ;u'row. [cmpt- nating sud- trancc of ihc cave, and liad so alarmed the men thai they had all turned and lied, leaving Daiikh;'n's father to face the bear alone. lie had to shoot with great rapidity, and in his haste made a had shot, so ih.it tiu' first arrow did not kill. It was a critical moment, and the bear was almost on him b(Tore Ik; hatl let lly tlu; second, 'Ihis fortunately pierceil its heart, and Daukhan toi us that to his ilying day tlu; old man's constant advice was never to fire a shot that was not the best that the shooter could do. It is curious that although the bow has disappeared from amongst them, the Iiulians never speak of shooting without str(;tching out the left hand and nicking the right near the ear, as if in the act of Icjttmg go an arrow. It seems that wherexcr nun have hunted much the animals have learnt to tlread them. And so in the more southerly portion of the Rockies a grizzly will seldom attack a man unprovoked. lUit in the North-West they have been known to attack men in the open country, and come some distance out of the bush to meet them ; and once or twice they have rushed upon a pack-train on the; march, and even entered a camp in spite of the fire. As a rule, however, even in the most unfrecpiented districts, the grizzlv, in common with most other animals, will seldom attack a human being unless driven to it or wounded ; although they will often attack cattle and horses on the ranee. I )aukhan said that f :ivr m i 'h -H I ,». f I 74 THl-: LAND ()!• THI- MUSKKG they generally stand upright and take a look at the intruder before they do anything. And this is the time to shoot. But when once they have made up their minds to charge they come with fear- ful swiftness and ferocity, and either club with their paws, smashing in the hunter's ribs, or, as has sometimes happened, hold him down and tear out his entrails. The number of times in which a bear has first knocked the gun out of a man's hand before attacking him is quite remarkable. The grizzly, of course, does not /i7/j^, but they have been known to hold a man with their feet and crush in his skull with their teeth. On the whole, bear- hunting is not a safe profession, and few of the Indians seek encounters with a grizzly. The Beavers, indeed, will go any distance to avoid one. Still, I fancy that the casual hunter runs no greater risk than he does with other big game, and, at all events, the odds are always on the side of a man who has a rille and knows how to use it. The black bear — Musqwah, as the Indians call him — is as a rule a timid animal, although at times he will turn and be exceedingly nasty. It seems that they grow to a far larger size in the North-West than in the more southerly districts, for Round told me that he had seen several skins larger than that of any grizzly that he had ever heard of An Indian named Louisan Thomas, a brother of the Thomas mentioned above, had a very nasty time with one DAIKH AN AND THR B£Jia&> ^O V :ng The one, eater tall man The 1 — is will thev m in that any dian mas one of these monsters. It seems dnin it-t vu- : the tracks, and suddenlv coine nu: : i f.^::^ -R-hii the bear. Before he had dn'i d:^ iir n:- ri-iV^ lif animal was upon him. and thevr ilt- : uth -c-_._j-rd upon the (ground together. Ldciiilvi le: v^f alue to reach his knife and killed, t&tr i'miii-.L- - . .' .-nal. but in the struijole the be^ir hiu: i;r: '.-^^- ^.. ibe skin off his head — had. in hict. icalrei i'm.. Tins encounter Louisan told us himsoiri ■_: - :.:5 i.car5 were eloquent of the tmth ot his- ^:r-r. ]i is a curious thiuLi' that amonijst ail die :e;ir -r.:ri-r i: L»e heard in Western America one s. • . irr . umt:* across a case of a man who has ai:n.a..'_ :rr-j: ,. ^-i. Of course there are such cases, bur a: iT--rr::f -r;^ the animal is e^enerallv Siitisiied wici tt... :: • _ i^ enemy and then retirin;^- from the neii: — ii=u_i-- -'^liu never eats its food fresh, but .iIw:lvs- i--( v-? t: lo ^;;;iet high, and this may account ior d:e v _ : -ariki it leaves what it believes is ceu.c. i ''S. ! ^^-r^-x th.it it very seldom kills a man Xy:>r rT:r«:. ii^ charges in self-protection, or to durenu -- •. The griz;.ly is omnivorous, eadnc • •- " vegetables, but it seems ^eneru^v ^ :-- latier, and subsists mainly on berries. Li^m. i^^i. in the spring, when there is no wild tiriui. ir ^ceirr* to devour many insects, attackinir am— JiiLs ^oid beating up the rotten logs widi tcs ^ii-WJi- in seardh of food. The force of its blow >- -rv'.'-L-^ ■^•'~r-j- ordinary, so that it will pulverise wiu .t^u.. v ...._ iLijd ■?y wr^ \i^ 76 Till-: LAND Ol' THI-: MUSKIIG scatter the fragments far and wide. When enraged, the grizzly will often stand upon its hind-legs and break down young trees with its fore-paws, roaring loudly the while. The female gives birth to two cubs every alternate year, and defends them until they are about twelve months old. The cubs often hibernate by themselves whilst the mother remains in retreat close at hand. There is a theory that the bear nourishes itself during its long sleep by sucking it? paws, and it is said that the under surface of the foot is sore and inflamed in the early spring. At all events it is certain that the bear is fat and in good condition when it emerges from its hole, but becomes thin and emaciated after it has been abroad for a few days. INDIAN l( 1; SCOOI' •I ! " «!■ CHAPTER IV CAMPING IN SWAMP Daukpian declared that there were not many bears in the neighbourhood of the prairie at the time when we visi;:ed it. Our hunts at anyrate were fruitless, and so we moved the camp and made a short march on 3rd of August. On the march Pollen ran a bramble into his eye, causing him much pain, and we camped early on the edge of the prairie. During the afternoon, Daukhan, John, and I, ascended a low mountain to the west of the camp and obtained a magnificent view of the sur- rounding country. Before us stretched mile after mile of forest-covered plain, showing great black- ened patches where fires had raged through the trees ; here and there the bend of a river shone in the sunlight ; and the wind rippled the long grass below us. Far beyond we could see the low foot- hills of the Rockies, and here and there a peak rose white and indistinct in the blue haze of distance. On the way back to camp we came across an old grizzly track of great size. As a rule we marched and hunted in the native moccasin, but I happened 77 ? J ^•■Wi^^i^^PI 78 THI' LAND Ol' Tlir, MUSKFG n to be wearing shooting-boots on this particular occasion, and I found that my two feet, side by side, fitted easily in the footprint of the bear. On returning to camp we found that Pollen's eye had become very much inflamed, and that he was in great pain. The Doctor had mixed some cocaine for him, which afforded him some relief; but he could hardly bear the light, and so had pitched his MAR ui:voNi) \vi: coui.n si:i-: Tin--, i.uw loor-mi.i.s mosquito-net under a shelter. He was entirely without sleep during the night, but continued to bathe his eye with the cocaine, which he kept in a saucer amongst his blankets. On the followinir morning, however, he was much worse, and the affair had become very serious. On examination we found that his saucer was full of ants and other insects which had crawled into his bed and fallen ' CAMPIXC. I\ SWAMP 79 into the medicine durinc: the nii^ht. and that in short he had been bathing his eye in a solution of formic acid. No wonder it liad set up a violent inllam- mation. V/herever we camped we were always much annoyed by ants, which swarm throughout the whole country, so that even when protected by a net from mosquitoes and other Hying insects, one's bed was always invaded by hosts of creeping things. With- out mosquito-nets life would be unendurable, and MOSQUITO M:rs dy to a he on ler en a man once stricken down by illness would most likely be worried to death. Even the moose and deer in the country are often killed by bull-dog (lies and mosquitoes, their blood being sucked away until they succumb through exhaustion. Pollen remained in the tent during the whole day in great pain. On the following day, however, he was much better, and with his eye bound up we put him on a ■'■p,".>ni«ju>i»i 1^1^41, m '1 80 Tin-: Ly\ND OF THR MUSKI-.C. ■ , i i f' horse and continued our way, travelling over a fairly open country. A forest fire had felled the timber and made the ground very fertile, so that we found an abundance of wild strawberries, and raspberries which were excellent. Towards evening we came to a river known to the Indians as Escapesscow Sepe, or the Sharp Stone Creek, where we camped and lay for the night in a thunderstorm. It had not rained for nine days, and this was the longest period of fine weather we experienced during the entire journey. On the morrow we crossed the river and marched on through much muskeg until we came to a small lake, where we camped. Ramsey now be- came very ill, suffering agonies of pain f'-om rheu- matism, so that we remained in the same place for several days hunting and exploring the country. The number of wild geese on the river was quite extraordinary. They would fly past in flocks for more than half an hour at a time, and even when th'^se were gone off, the next bend would disclose hundreds more. It was wdiile we were camped here that we first saw that most wonderful of all the beauties of nature — the aurora borealis. The sun had set with unusual splendour, the light and vaporous clouds holding for long a thousand shades of scarlet, orange, and gold. But no sooner was the last ray gone than pale streaks of green shot horizontally 1 CAMI'IXc; IX SWAMP 8i down the sky and then quivered and passed from side to side like luminous hanginrrs in the wind First one, then another, of these would appear, and then a score ; the intensity of h^ht chani,vincr from one ^nd to the other of the streak, and all passing and repassmg each other with endless and entranc- ing activity. It was a most striking and glorious sight to see half of the dome of heaven abla/e with the shifting dancing fires, the more so as the colour a pale apple-green, seemed so unusual in the sky ; When Ramsey was better we continued our march in the same manner as before. In many places we came across bear-tracks, but they were condemned by Daukhan as old, and not worth followin<r Once however, he found a trail which he declared was fresh, and I immediately started to follow it with him. Pollen s eye being still troublesome. Daukhan said that a female black bear and three cubs had gone into the timber, and that they had not passed more than half an hour before our coming. We accordingly took up the trail while the others made camp as quietly as possible. The bush was thick and the ground in many places hard and dry ; but Daukhan seemed to follow the animal by a kind of instinct, leaping swiftly from log to log and only following the actual footmarks where the earth was soft or the grass long. It seemed as thouoh he hunted by scent. Presentlv wp came muskeg, where the trees lay thickly piled o a large one upon 82 Till' LAND Ol' Tin: MUSKIKi •JJ another. 1 Icrc it was easy to see the footmarks of the bears in the soft moss. Suddenly we sighted a small cub, and Daukhan raced after it, leaping over the fallen timber with wonderful agility, whilst I vainly attempted to keep up with him. The cub promptly ran up a tree, where I shot it. Mean- while Daukhan had discovered another cub, and was already some distance away doing his best to tree it. This one was killed in the same way as the first, but still the old bear did not appear. We searched the surrounding country, but only found a broad path in the underbrush which she had made in her rapid f!ight. At this we were greatly dis- appointed, as we knew from her tracks that she was of considerable size. However, we returned to the camp with the bodies of the unfortunate cubs, and, I am bound to say, were mightily pleased with them, for, although, small, they were the first bears we had killed on the trip. Daukhan dried the skins in Indian fashion, making a hoop of willow branches, and stretchinu' the hide as tiirht as a drum. When the skin was dry, he scraped the gristle from the under side with a bone implement, and in a wonderfully short time the fur became quite sweet, and could be rolled and packed upon the horses. We were now marching towards the .South Forks of the Pine, and intended to follow up the main river in the direction of the Rocky Mountains. Daukhan declared that we had betttT move forward as rapidly CAMriN'C, I\ SWAMP 83 footmarks ve sighted it, Icapiiijr ity, whilst The cub t. Mean- cub, and is best to le way as ear. We nly found had made 'eatly dis- that she returned late cubs, ised with st bears ried the f willow a drum, stle from md in a te sweet, l; horses. \ Forks ain river )aukhan rapidly I as possible and halt amon^^st the foot-hills for some days, as he said tliat we should fmd abundance of bear and other y;ame in that district. The pitching trail by which for the lirst few days after leaving- Dunvegan we had travelled- did not take us far. Beyond the prairie there was little trace of it, and now all evidence that the country had ever been travelled over hatl long since dis- ai)peared. so that we had only a vague knowledge ^ \ AN I.VKNIM. CAMP of our position, but marched across the country entirely under Daukhan's guidance. He said that we were approaching a muskeg which covered an immense area of country, and that he was uncertain which direction we had better take. He had never crossed this great swamp, although he had hunted in the outskirts, but he said that he thought that we should be able to fmd a ridge of firm ground run- r. ^ li* 84 THI': LAM) Ol' Tllli MUSKIXi ft t fl ning through it, and thus save a lonq; detour. For some days past the country had been bccominL,^ more swamp)-, and more thickly timbered, until at last we left the poplar woods behind and entered a dense forest of small pines. The soft moss and deep muddy pools of the muskeg impeded the horses, and we were obliged to cut a path through the trees, so that we made but slow progress. It was impossible to see more than a few yards in any direction ; but Daukhan led us straight forward without a moment's hesitalion. Now and again we halted, whilst he climbed a tree and scanned the horizon, looking for some mountain by which he miirht steer our course ; but he could see nothing but trees and swamp for miles in every direction. At every step we sank deep in the cold ooze, so that we were chilled to the bone, even whilst chop- ping the trees and driving the refractory pack animals. One evening, just as we were about to camp, we came upon a deep ravine, and camped be- tween high bluffs near a small stream. On refer- ring to the map, we noticed a river marked Coal Brook, which had been discovered by Mr. Dawson ; but we were uncertain whether this was the rioht stream, and were inclined to think that we had already reached the south branch of the Pine River. Even if it was Coal Brook, we had no notion where we were upon the map, and we imagined that we CAMri\(; IN- SWASIP 85 our. For becoming .1, until at i\ entered moss and tded the 1 til roil o-h ^ress. It tls in any forward nd again scanned jy which I nothing iirection. ooze, so 1st chop- ry pack 3 camj), ped be- 'n refer- cd Coal )awson ; le right we had i River. 1 where that we iiad come upon the rixer iiigher up stream than we had intended. And so, on the following day. Daukhan and John went out to look for the Fine River; for we thought it useless to move the pack- train thrcHigh so difficult a country if there was any doubt about our position, as we might march far out of the line and be compelled to return, and thus lose much time and do unnecessary work. As soon as our scouts had left camp Pollen and 1 set off down the river in search of game. Here and th(;re in the sand by the waterside we found tracks of black-tailed deer, but none of these were very fresh. There are but few of these deer in the country ; but they are more plentiful than the cariboo, which is very seldom seen, although it is to be found in the foot-hills. The wapiti Ts (piite extinct throughout the entire district. It i:^ said that forty or fifty years ago these deer were very plentiful; but the Indians have waged so deadly a war upon them that a few stray antlers whitening amongst the hills alone remain to tell of their exist"^ ence. It is curious to notice that when they became scarce the bulls ceased to whistle, as though fearful of attracting attention. We followed up the black- tail tracks for some distance, and then returned to the river bottom. The canon was deep and pre- cipitous, and in many places very narrow, so that we were obliged to cross the river many times on the way. Here and there we noticed great lumps I 86 nil' LAM) ()!• I III'. MlSKI'd 1 1 • I J. ) of coal in tlic rivt;r-bccl, and this led us to suppose that this was Coal Hrook, as wc had imai^iiicd. '{"he stream was str()lll^^ and the water vcr)' cold, hut it did not reach ahovc; our knees, and so diil not inconvenience us much. On the return jourm;)-, however, wc. found that the river had risen con- siderably , and now rushed in a roarinij torrent, often risiiifj^ nearly to our armpits. The; stren<4th of the stream was extraordinary, so that we had much ado to keep our feet, and were often carried down a Ioul;- distance; over the slippery rocks. Several times I thought that we should certainly have been drowned, for if a man wert: once swept away he would stand but a poor chance; in such a swirling mass of wat(;r. The roar of the torrent beat back upon us frcMii the rock)' sides of the chasm with a deafenino; sountl that was calculated to shake one's nerves when one felt the tug- of the water. At last, however, wc; came to camp very wet and exhausted, having crossed the stream no less than forty times during the afternoon. Late that evening John and Daukhan returned, saying that they had found the forks of the Pine River, and so we made haste to march there the following morning. On the way we came across iiio grave of an Indian in a little open space amongst the trees. A small wooden cross stood close at hand, whilst the body was pro- tected from the attacks of wolverines and coyottes by a stout wooden frame fdled with stones. The ii CAMIMNl. IN SWAMl* 87 I) siij)|)()se iina^iiicd. ^cry cold, nd so did 1 journey, iscn con- ; torrent, :ren_nth of liiul much ied down Several lave been away he a swirlino- beat back ;m with a ak(i one's At last, hausted, ty times ohn and 3und the haste to the way n a little wooden was pro- coyottes Is. The man had csideiuK di».'d as he had lived, upon the luiiitinL;- trail, ami had been buried in his deep forests, far from the (Kv(;llin!4s of men. The j;rave seemed pitiful in its lontdiness, but 1 suppose that it was as he would have wished. About midday we descended into an open flat, and, skirting- the climii)s of low bush, came to the jincture of the South I'ine and the main river. We. should nf)w b(; forced to cross to the; northern shore. 'Alion MIDIiW WE l)liS( KNDi;!) 1N10_.\\ OI'KN ir.Al' and we thought it best to take the rivers in detail, crossimj- the south river first, and then turnino; our attention to the main stream, which was smaller and less ra[)id abov(; the conlluence, although still about six hundred feet broad. \\'(^ soon foimd, however, that the horses would be obliged to swim in any case, and as we had no wish to spoil our provisions and ammunition, or lose any of the pack animals, we determined to make a dug-out canoe, I" *7' M II ' ;v, !i I I I: 'i \ 1 S ' I 88 Till' LAND OF Till' MUSKF.G and thus save our stores and cross more safely our- selves. We had already chosen a tree suitable for our purpose, when we discovered a very oood canoe hidden amongst the branches, and shortly after- wards another less perfect one a litde lower down. This stroke of s^ood fortune cheered us consider- ably, as we should have lost much valuable time if we had been compelled to make our own boat. We had wasted many days through illness or misadventure, and travelled far more nlowly than we had anticipated. It was already the 15th of August, and a month since we left Dunvegan ; but we had killed no game worth speaking of, and had not even got to our huntinir-grounds. The len<rth of time which remained would, of course, be limited by the coming of winter, and we knew that if the snow came whilst we were still in the mountains, we should be obliged to remain in the country until spring. Already the nights were cold ; and plthough the sun still shone brightly by day, we felt that the height of the summer was past, and that we must make a better pace if we were to get any hunting, and cross the mountains before the long northern winter set in. The frost had, how- ever, done us one good turn, for the mos([uitoes and bull-dog Hies had disappeared. It is true that the sand-ily had taken their place; but this insect was not nearly so ferocious as its predecessors, and always retired at sundown, so that we could ii L II . REiBI c.\:\nMNc. IN ^\\ \" now sleep uiulisturl)eel. and live tree ^'vr — tortus; ami worry. Tht: L;rt:at thini,;^ now was ro hurrv -' --v so we made what haste we coulii u: horses across the two ri\rrs. whiiiifi L Oi^^i, -■-•:-dl the we and <^et the ow- :oes ;hat >ect :)rs, nld i iH)k>iN s\\iM\ti\i; iHK lUNt- aivT-:a %l John ferricHl oin- ^ooils to the nortiienr -fiiiccit <a lie Pine in the canoe. naiikh.m was- i wcmjtriu] canoe-man, and John was ver\" hanLiynr ^rn^ luiaCL i» that by evenini;- we were all SiUeiy oinr-js** ani Lad made our camj) on the furtlier ifeucfci. Wr: iiiid discovered a small parcel oi tea ini- miLii:: : — : " : I .1 1 ! r h I r ii ll 90 THI-. LAND OF TUR Ml'SKl'd Indian's greatest luxury— near the canoe, so we made sure that the boat had been left for the use of some other party, and felt bound to leave it in the place where we found it. We accordingly took it back, and having contributed a small present to the 'cache,'' we returned to camp in the warped canoe which we had discovered upon the beach. Now at last we were sure of our position, and every day took our bearings by the mountains near the forks. We marched up the valley for some distance, and then ascended to the hicrher ii^rounds. The hill was very steep, and one of our pack animals, a small horse known by the extravagant title of Duke, slipped on the short grass, and rolled down the mountain-side with his burden. After bouncing amongst rocks and stumps, now on the flat of his back, now sliding, with despairing up- turned face, upon his side, he came to a sudden stop against the trunk of a pine-tree two hundred and fifty feet below us. Every one imagined that the luckless ani nal had broken his neck, or at least done himself some fearful injury. And our surprise may be imagined when we saw him get upon his feet, shake himself, and then quietly trot away from us, dragging a mass of bundles and pack-ropes behind him. No one who has not tried it can have any idea ' /.(■, a tiling hidilen or stores left protected fr.,.ii animals for fiituip wff. Thus a man will 'cache' m.-at and rcUiin to his 'rnche.' r ^1^ wa^mmmmmmmimi^mmmm 'mgamr^^ssp^esi CAMPING IX SWAMP 91 of the trials of pack-train driving. Horses linock off their packs a<4ainst rocks, or rush incontinently under low boughs, sweeping away their valuable burdens. In an agony of fr\^r one watches one's precious kodak rocking on the back of some loose animal that has a mind to roll in a soft muddy place, or stands vacantly in a river, whilst his brother, who is perhaps carrying the bacon, slips on the soft bank ai^^l goes wallowing down upon his head in the deep water. At every moment of the long marching day some refractory brute leaves the line and goes exploring in the bush or browsing in tlie swamps. A clever horse will so hide himself as to be invisible from his driver's trail, and often one has to return and search the forest, only to find him rolling contentedly upon a burst fl jur-bag, and whitening himself with its priceless contents. No lover of animals should march with a pack-train if he wishes to keep his self-respect. Duke was one of those annoying horses, and made himself objectionable on every possible occa- sion. After his roll he trotted down the hill, and ■j.id not stop until he found a place where the grass suited his taste, and there we found him enjoying his ease. Even after i:e had bcv^n brought back and packed, and set upon the trail, he evinced a decided inclination to roll down to the rich crass again, although any ordinary horse would un- doubtedly have died at the first attempt. But he i.l m \ \^i V.l'- f I 92 Till' LAM) oi' Tin: muskI':g was to be of much use to us afterwards in a maimer we did not drenm of at this time. And thus, with m^ny strugL;les and pantings, we reached the higher ground, and pushed forward through a fairly open country. Once during the day we came upon a deserted Indian camp. From the condi- tion of the ashes and other signs we judged that it was not more than two weeks old. There had evidently been a sick 'nan in the party, for the remains of a sweating-house were still stand- ing. It is made after this manner : Many small branches are stuck in the ground in a circle, and the extremities and twigs are plaited together so as to form a kind of roof. Blankets are then thrown over the whole, and the patient creeps in and sits down upon the floor. Mean- while large stones have been heated in a fire, and these are passed into the hut by the man's friends, whilst he pours water upon them, and so makes a steam under the blanket. After a while the heat must become almost unendurable, but the process is continued until the unfortunate patient can stand it no longer, JOHN AND DAUKIIAN IN rii:-; canoi-: hv ■P" ■■Ml CAMl'IXG 1\ SWAMP 93 and is forced through sheer exhaustion to emero-e from his Turkish bath. Whether this cure Is beneficial in the treatment of the various diseases to which Indians are subject. I am unable to say, but they all place great faith in its healing powers. ' To our great sorrow Daukhan himself, two days after we left the Pine River, became an invalid, suftering great pain from lumbago. It seems curious that a savage should feel the injurious effects of a climate and a mode of life to which he has been used since childhood, but such is nevertheless the case. It is the greatest mistake to suppose that savage man enjoys uninterrupted health. In the North-West. every man, whether white or Indian, is sure sooner or later to become a martyr to rheumatism and like complaints. And no wonder. I am afraid that I have entirely failed to give any idea of the real nature of the country thro^ugh which we had passed, all of which would apply equally to the region through which we were destined to go. Unless an actual day-by-day diary were given, it is almost impossible to show the extraordinary amount of damp to which we were subject. To begin with, it rained almost every day, and even when the sky was unclouded the bush was nearly always very wet, so that one be- came thoroughly soaked from top to toe before the morning's work was over. For many days to- ■w< / 'M i<<' n 94 Tin-: I,A\D OF THE MUSKF.C. gether one walked continually in swamp or muskeg to the ankle, and often for hours at a time in water reaching well above the knee. But all this was of small consequence. A warm fire would always dry out one's clothes as one stood, so that one went to bed moderately dry. But it w^as during the night that the damp worked its worst upon us. We had small waterproof sheets under our blankets, and these were of great service to us, but one piece of waterproof will do little against an acre of water. It must be understood that on many occasions one could plunge one's hand out of bed to the wrist, or even to the elbow, if one had a mind to, in slushy water or sodden moss and mud. Of course now and again we found hard pieces of ground, and even made dry camp ; but the country as a whole was nothing but a vast morass, and in this sodden condition we marched and worked and slept. I have heard people who ought to know say that England is a damp climate to camp in, but England at its wettest would be child's-play to this rain- haunted land, and not to be compared with it for a moment. Looking back on the expedition now I do not wonder that we were delayed a little by sickness, but I always marvel that we all got out of that country alive, or at least without some serious illness. And the most amusing part of the whole thing was, that one of the party had gone there under doctor's orders. But of course, neither this 11 8 ■^ CAMl'IXc; I\ SWA^IP 95 :r medical adviser, nor any one else for that matter liad any idea of the nature of the country. There is a conspiracy of silence about worthless British possessions. One remarks with wonder the notes of Mine soil ' and 'open rollincr country' on the maps of a territory wiiere the casual traveller can hnd nothino- but muske- and sludcry ■swamp. Now and again, hidden away in ''a corner, one may hnd a tiny 'marshN.' and a few infinitesimal tufts of grass marked upon a Govern- ment map. as though the conscience of the map- maker had pricked him, and driven him to fill up some neglected corner. But of the miles of worth- less country, of the useless rotting timber and the bare, barren mountain, there is never a word or a sign. Of course no one can expect to find definite information about unexplored country, and it were folly to condemn a district because so many others are bad, but if the maker of maps were honest he would use the dotted line in many places where he now fills in with a bold stroke, as though he knew the surface of the country and the lay of the land It IS natural that he who makes a map or writes a book about the land of his birth should smooth over many little deficiencies, and should draw a little on his imagination In depicting advantao-es which may have accidentally been omitted in the creation. The vanity seems a harmless one, and to judge from present evidence, it has been freely 'VfTK I I 1 1- ■ mfv^mirmmm^mmrww I- w. \ , It . 96 rUl': LAND OI- TIM' MlSKl-C. indul!:,fecl. But when one considers that men wlio know the true state of affairs actually pass it over, thus consciously enticing the unwary emi- grant to strike out from the borders of civilisation and starve in a hard and cruel country, the vanity becomes a crime, and a crime of no mean magnitude. For the unfortunate settler cannot know if the land be good or worthless when the maps say that all the land is good. But happily, as a matter of fact, few emigrants have as yet pushed beyond the fertile plains of the Sas- katchewan and the lulmonton district, for the truth about the North is leaking out, and men are beginning to realise that the vast territory from the Athabaska to the Barren Grounds and on to the Arctic Ocean is practically worthless for agricultural purposes. There is, however, a little gold in the rivers, which, with improved machinery, might be worked to some small profit in spite of the short summer season. Gold will draw men into any country ; and so it has ha])pened that, from time to time, a few, more adventurous or more foolish than FlSIl Sl'KAK t CAMPINc; IX SWAMP g^ their fellows, have penetrated to the Peace River country. -^uLr Some years ago a man arrived at Dunvegan prospectmg for precious metals, and set out up the' nver m the early spring. Months went by and st.l he d,d not return, and at last, in the latter part of August, a search party was organised. One day '>e Indians found him. He was lying under a bush feebly clawing at a few berries. The skin had shrunken from his face, and his lips, 'like two ■nes of gnstle,' were drawn back, showing his tee h, wh,bt his eyes seemed bursting from their sockets H,s reason had left him, so that he tried to crawl away from his captors, and even to fi.ht them off with his teeth when they came up\o where he was lying. It .seems that through some accKfan he had lost his provisions, and had lived tor three months on roots and berries Another man had started nearer the mountains and had gone up one of the rivers. He was a mus,c,a„ and had taken his banjo with him. Some months later a boat coming down the river was rowed qu.ckly past a point because of the fearful stench ,n that place. When the men got a little lower down some of them returned and found ilanjo Chariey,'as the unfortunate had been called corrupted almost beyond recognition, and lying with his banjo beside him. The Indians themselves suffer fearful periods of G i If I if I '(M ■ . ill h lilt r ' I'll'' , IP 98 THIC LAND Ol- Till.: MlSKia; Starvation, and I have even heard of cases where men have been driven to devour each other. In a land where the native starves, what chance is there for the white man ? But let me return to our expedition. ^vhere In a tlu-'i't; > C 1 1 A V T \i R V ON Till'; TRACK OK A Ckl/./.W Daukhan, for all his hardiness and strenj^th, was utterly broken down from the continued damp, and had fallen a victim to excruciating |)ains of rheuma- tism. This was a pretty serious matter— for without him we should be hopelessly lost in this trackless wilderr'jss. However, the Doctor did the best he could for him, dosing him with salicylate of soda, and finally building up a plaster of Paris support round his waist and back, which delighted Daukhan beyond measure, and I believe he kept the plaster in its place for weeks after he had entirely recovered. As the country became worse, our progress had grown daily slower, and now that Daukhan was /wrs dc combat we cast about for some remedy or help. About thirty miles from wlu;re we were there was a large sheet of water, known as Moberley's Lake. Daukhan said that many Ben- cr Indians hunted round its shores, and that we should be almost certain to find them in that district at that particular time, as the berry season was comin'>- on and they w^ould be collected together picking 'JU 1 A 100 Tin- l-AND Ol' THi: .MlSKlil. ■i t\ « if i'lvi berries upon the hillsides. After much discussion it seemitd the wisest thini;- to send some of our party to this lake to try and tjet an Indian to join our expedition in the capacity of axe-man, to help to clear a path for the horses. We were also badly in want of moccasins, for wc had used these com- fortable shoes too freely on the march, and wc knew that it woukl be quite hopeless to attempt to hunt in ordinary boots. A moccasin is to all intents and purposes a leather sock, so that the foot has full l)lay, and can bend and ,<4ras[) as nature intended. At the lirst attempt the pains of walking practically barefooted amongst sticks and sharp stones are of cour.*- severe. Hut after a few days the foot becon hardened, and can stand much knocking about, and then it is that one begins to appreciate what Mr. Pike happily names ' the moccasin of freedom,' and to despise the boot of civilisation ; for you soon find that you can walk easily, swiftly, and silently for long distances without becoming tired, that your foot docs not stick in deep mud, that you can move with ease upon slippery logs, and, most important of all, that you do not break every twig that you may chance to step on. It would be utterly hopeless to attempt to stalk in boots in a North Western forest. You would see more <rame in Piccadilly. And now we realised that we had not enough moccasins, and thought that we might ON IIIl". I RACK Ol A i.RlZ/A.Y lOI be able to net some from tlie Inclians round the lake at the saiiK! time that we i^ot our axc-man. Daukhan said that there was a trail kom the river to the lake, and that if only he could fnul the place where five years before he had killetl two youn^- moose, he would be able to set us on it. l-'or two OIK (AMI' IN 'rill. \\i.i.i;v days Daukhan was unable to move, but on the third, after a very hard daj's work amongst fallen timber and swamps, we descended into a little valley and found the whitened poles of an old camp. Daukhan said that this was the place where he ' ate the moose,' and very soon we found a blade-bone and other relics of this long-past meal. When one comes to think that he had only visited the district once, and that five years ago, one realises the l\ > 1 02 rin-: land oI' ihI': miskiic. ,j »' n <!■ f i'l' extraordinary memory for places wliich the Indians possess ; but it is more than a higiily developed bi^mp of locality — it is a special instinct. Daukhan, for instance, had brought us from Dunvegan to the Pine River, a distance of close upon i 50 miles, with- out the aid of a trail for more than half the way, and with hardly any idea of the meaning of a maj\ And now he brought us in a straight line to a place where he had only campeJ for a few days live years before. So now, as soon as we had camped, Pollen got ready to go to Moberley's Lake, taking John Knot as an interpreter, whilst Daukhan, who knew most of the Indians, though he did not speak the Heaver tongue, said he was well enough to accompany them on horseback as guide. Round, Ramsey, the Doctor, and I were to remain in the camp to mind the horses and goods, and to do what hunting we could. I^arly in the afternoon th(^ expedition started on horseback to the lake, taking a pack- horse with them, and one other animal for the use of the Indian whom they proposed to firing back. After they were gone, I set out to e.\[)lore the countr)- by myself, and found it simply alive with game. The ground was covered with lon^- orass and wild pea plant, which the bears are \ery fond of, and everywhere there were long lines where some animal had roamed, feeding as he went. Here and there one could see where a bear had rolle,J in the grass, whilst the soft mud by the river-sides ans the ith- Lnd icrc )re. lot xst er ind ion ISC iie ith ISS .'re I ^. u )k ill* .» 104 THI<: LAM) OI- TH1<: .MUSKliC. and in the muskegs was covered with the tracks of black bear and grizzly. In every open space I ex- pected to find a huge beast sunning himself, or at least to hear the crack of branches in the underbrush. Just as I was mounting a small hill, I came upon the perfectly fresh track of a grizzly of great size. The wind was light and favourable, so I followed rapidly, and as silently as possible, until I came to a patch of bush. The tracks led into undergrowth, and soon I could hear the bear snap- ping twigs at the further end of the clump, about eighty yards away. I was standing on a little hill, and could see over a portion of the clump, and I noticed that in the centre there was an open space amongst the bushes. Creeping quietly on hands and knees through the undergrowth, I came to the straight the rUACK Ol- A (JKIZ/LV L. ^ ON THI-: TRACK OJ" A (.Rl///A.\ '^ to5 opening- and waited. The cl the d; car space was not more uiaii len yards across, could liear the griz>:ly amongst the bushes. He appeared to be eating ants, for lie grunted and coughed quietly, and his scent came down the wind to me like the smell of a kennel of dogs. I dared not move forward, for though the animal rould not have been thirty yards ;ava)'. he was completely hidden in the bush, and every moment he was coming a little nearer, so I remained quietly waiting till he should move from behind the thick bushes and step into the little space where I sat. When once he showed himself, I trusted that the hea\-y rifle which I carried woiild finish him off; at all events, I hoped to take him completely by surprise, and so waited anxiously for the encounter. The bear drew nearer and nearer, and every m'unent the smell grew stronger, so that I was just j-i naring to meet him when I heard the wind coming uj- th- valley behind me. All day the air had been- liglv and shifting, but from the sound in the trees /^judged that a strong breeze had come up and would soon be upon me. My position now became very serious, for I saw at once that m>- scent would be carried straight towards the bear, and one of two things was sure to happen,— either he would run away, or charge me on the moment, and neither was exactly what I wished. There is a vast difference between shooting a bear as he emerges from the bush, i ra ^ 1 06 THM LAM) OF THK MUSKEG Iff^t J ! ^ I > however close at hand, and standing the charge of a huge and infuriated griz/ly in dense under- brush. But before I had time to move the wind was upon me. and, with a gre^t crashing of boughs, the bear made his charge, coming, as it seemed, straiglit at me. All I could do was to stand with my heart in my mouth and wait for him. But instead of rushing at me as I had expected, he bore off to the right and made for a little hill. All this time I never once caught a glimpse of him, and could only judge of his movements by the breaking of branches and crashin<>: in the bush. But as soon as I realised that he was not coming towards me I retreated into the open and ran round the clump, hoping to get a sight of him. I could not under- stand why he had charged the hill, but I afterwards discovered that nr. scent would have blown that way, and doubtless the bear had caught it when the wind sw'ipt back towards him from the rising ground. To my great disappointment I never saw the beast at all, for he had apparently made off across the open as soon as he found that he had charged in the wrong direction. The adventure had been an exciting one, and I should without doubt have had a very unpleasant time if, in the event of the bear showing himself, my bullet had not taken inmiediate effect. But as it was, I felt that fate had been very hard on me, more especially when I heard the wind drop a few moments after the bear «t ''- ON THIi TRACK OV A C.IUZZLY loy had gone. However, I continued to hunt for the next few days, but although I came across number- ess tracks I never sighted a bear. Once a black bear roamed round the camp in the night, but he was soon scared away by the stampeding of the horses. On the third day, Pollen, Daukhan, and John returned from the lake. They had been unable to find any Indians, and so we should be obliged to go without the extra axe-man and with- out the moccasins. They had, however, met with several adventures on tlie wa)-. I append Pollen's own account. ' Two hours- careful riding had taken us clear of the muskeg that stretched across the valley, and once on the firm ground on the other side we made good progress. The country was beautiful-sphi. y grass under foot, and a great diversity of trets scattered on the rolling hills. I suppose we had gone some twelve or fifteen miles before we struck the hills that cut into the top of the valley, and found the Indian trail that leads from the North Pine to Moberley s Lake. But look as we would there was never a trace of its having been used this >ear. A regular camping-ground of the Beavers lay some three miles beyond us, and Daukhan said there would be another trail converging there. So on we went, and soon came upon a' series of Hats that rise by steps some hundred feet at a time towards the dividing mountains at the head and 4 f !^ m'l t 1 08 THl-: LAND OI' THF, MUSKI-C. north side of the valley. These Hats cover a ,ijreat s[)ace of ground, and are bounded on their lower level by a series of long lakes, varying from one- to three-quarters of a mile in length, and about a couple of hundred yards across. I believe I was the first European to explore them ; and they cer- tainly were well worth seeing. ' It was as we topped the second rise that a little way ahead of us we saw a tall wooden cross rising amonLTSt the trees. Nothing- could be more eJo- quent of the faith and nationality of the missionaries who had visited these tribes ; and for a moment one could have imagined oneself on the outskirts of a French village in the mountain foot-hills of the Jura. The cross showed that one of the tribe had been buried then,' ; and a little beyond we found some half-dozen sets of lodge poles, a sweating- house, fireplaces, and frames for stretching moose-skins. There was no doubt about its being the camping- place, but had it been used this year.'' It was with anxious eyes that we hunted round ; for on some evidence of recent use of at least the trail depended the success of our ex[)edition. Hut an hour's search ended in no discovery of what we wanted ; and so, dispirited and tired- for it was getting near evening — we turned back and made a camp on the lower fiat over the last of the semicircle of lakes. ' Daukhan was in the lowest of spirits : he was a man who hated failure, and to come all this wav, to h\ ON THI- TRACK Ol' A GRIZZLY 109 Je have wasted two valuable days, for it was a lont^' march home, and all for nothing, depressed him. I fancy, too, that the exertion of the morning's march and the long ride had set his rheuma- ,// ' tism at work again. We made our fire for supper in silence ; and while John boiled the kettle and made bread, I toiled down the steep bank to the lake, some hun- dred feet below us, to bathe. On my return I found supper ready, and with food our spirits revived, and in a rather better humour we lit our pipes and sat on the crest of the hill to watch the fading irlories of the sunset, ' Before us stretched the long valley we hatl travelled over during the day, the black shadows of the knoll at the further side of the lake cuttinL"" ■^••^ ■"-*;» - '^-f. IS oi'KN (orNTin- tn '.■ V I lO Till-: LAND OF THE MUSKFXi off the mountains on our right ; but on the left they spread in uninterrupted series until they touched the soft turquoise of the evening sky, range on range of pale blue mountains, sometimes tree-covered, sometimes gaunt and rocky, but all their asperity softened by the haze of distance and the glamour of the setting- sun. In the air was the still silence that only comes in the wilderness, and was unbroken, save for the occasional cry of a loon that circled overhead. Below us the lake lay like a gigantic mirror, every leaf and branch o( the reflected trees showing clear and sharp. 'As John took his place at my side, he accidentally moved a large stone at his feet, and in a second it was rolling and then leaping down the hill. A moment's stillness, and then a deep "splosh" told of the end of its course. The thinij set us lausjfhine like a lot of schoolboys ; the game became general, and soon we were up and scouring the land for more stones to throw. I have been told that grave professors have been known to indulge in this entertainment in the Alps, to the fatal detriment of village cattle below them, and indeed I can understand any one being bitten by so fascinating an amusement. For us the discovery was a god- send ; and before we had wearied of it I )aukhan was himself again, and ready to discuss plans. ' Was it worth while to spend another day going to Moberley's Lake? It was difficult to get at the i A ' mm^ O.N TIIM TRACK Ol' A (iRIZZLN' I I I probabilities. Daukhan's half-wild mind worked in obscure paths; and although John was a tactful interpreter, it was a long job before I was able to get at any sort of judgment on the matter. How- ever, it finally appeared that there was still a trail from our side that led to the lake ; and there was always a chance that from the other side some part of the tribe had made their way to the-quasi-settle- ment for the summer. One thing appeared certain : poor as this chance seemed, it was our only one. It is true, it meant another day, but our need of moccasins Avas great, and if we could get old Cayahn, a splendid axe-man, our time and labour would be well laid out. And so we went to bed, resolved to be up with the dawn, and to get to the lake and back to our camp before evening. 'Our plan was carried out to the letter. It was a long and a wearisome march, many awkward passages of rock, and with long interval of fallen timber to puzzle the horses, and a fair allowance of muskeg and marsh as we neared the lake. Hut. except for the splendour of the view, there was nothing to repay our trouble. No one had been there since the previous year. The fishing-nets were carefully cached in birch-bark roggans high in the trees ; ketdes and other luxuries of permanent camp were also safely bestowed ; every t! lil was heavily overgrown with brambles and flocks. Evi- dently what we had already half expected had i u .-J '■' 1 i I 12 THi' i,\\i) oi" rin- MrsKi'C. happened — the Indians had moved down in a body to Fort St. John. Perhaps it was a selfish consola- tion, but in spite of the loss of three days to the expedition, I could not, as I looked on Moberley's Lake, reijret tiiat I had come. The expanse of water seemed enormous, hemmed in as it was by i;iKi ii-ii.\i(K i;o(;(;.\Ns hit^h mountains on either side, and between the converging slopes at the further end the two peaks of the Bull's IU;ad and the Porcupine glistened in the noonday sun. Every turn and contour of the shores — at one point steep and bristling with rugged pines, at another shelving away in arable prairie — was invested with a strange charm of harmonious shape and hue. The water itself was of a colour I had never seen before ; and as we waded on horse- ox Tin- TRACK ()I A (;ri/ziA- buck of the lake, it '13 across tlie rapid stream that for seemed as if we were of a h'ciuid opal in which the sun! Ills the oudet in the midst IL' ht was kindiino- ever-shiftin.<,r sparks of lire ' There was nothing for it but to go back, and it was ah-eady dusk as we rode down to the flat where we had camped overnight. I should have said that HI the low ground at the end of the first lake through which we came before mounting to the level of our camp, we had seen several bear-tracks and Daukhan thought it might be worth while in the early morning to watch this track on the chance of a bear crossing, more especially as the place was all overgrown with pea-vine, of which " mysthah- ayah •• IS specially fond. So to-night we made our hre out of sight of this, some thousand yards further along the lake, where the land was lower. The lake Itself here was lost in thick rushes, already crisp and dead, and one had to get water by wadincMxit through mud. When we had got some, it tested rank and sour from the rush-seeds that had been rotting in it all the summer, and completely spoiled the cocoa to which we were looking forward. So we fell on tobacco early to forget the disappointment, and for the first time I got on fairly intimate terms with Daukhan. ' It seemed that ever since the stai t it had weicrhed on his spirit that he had so many masters ; it'was not part of his bargain that he should be ordered II ■^ I 114 'ini-: LAND ()i- TMi-: mtskicc; \i I' i I 11 » IF about by every one. and the disrespect was painlul. Now, I was sure that neitlier Round nor Ramsey nor the Doctor had ever ordered him about at all, nor yet Somerset or I ; but if that was his i^rievance, it liad to be set at rest. So I explained that all ordering about was uninter.tional, and that the mistake must have arisen from our poor acquaint- ance with the language, that .Somerset and I alone were the Oukimovvs, and that, coming to a strange country, had asked him, another Oukimow, to guide us through ; we were entirely innocent of wishing to order him ; thac, situated as we were, all had to do what work they could, and he, being so much stronger and hanlier than any of us, no doubt much fell upon his shoulders, but that we appreciated his good-will and energy immensely. As for the march, the matter was entirely in his hands. We knew w^e could trust him, because we had heard such good accounts of him before we came, and, moreover, had found everything we had hoped verified by our experience ; that without him we could do nothing, and were entirely relying on his perseverance and skill to get to our journey's end. This long speech entirely reassured his suspicious nature, and we fell to talking of other things, Dau- khan being particularly delighted with various details of English life. A city, he thought, must be a very perplexing place to live in, and very dangerous. The Queen, too, for whom prayers were offered <'\ Tin; IK.\(Koi.-.\(,klZ/I,V ,,^ after every niass on Sundajs at tlie Mission, in- ~cl I.m . neatly. I )icl si.e rule th. Huelson's i^ay Ccnpany. or did tlu: lludsons liay Company -'<^Her? ^Vhat was slu. ]iI<o. and how did sh j,^ovcrn? Conld slic do uhat she liked ? I fear i^^- was d.sappoiiued at learnin^r that the Ouecn .^■racous and dearly beloved as she was by he.- subjects, was yet not their .absolute ruler No doubt. I explained, did she choose, there were many thmgs she could do that she refrained fro.n. \\ hy . asked Daukhan. It was rather a problem cxpoundmo- a theory of constitutional monarchy to a primitive man ; but the following,, was the best attempt I could make :— 'The Queen had more subjects than any one could ima^^ine. AH the inhabitants of any coun^ry )aukhan had seen would not fill a single street of London, and London had thousands of streets, and there were thousands of cities almost as lanre as London. I hese people, too, were scattered alUver the world. How could one person know what was best for all of them? and so the Queen, anxious that her people should be happy, allowed them in each country to choose chiefs and send them to large councils, so that each chief could speak for the needs of the people that sent him. and then advise the Queen what to do. However much she might disagree with her chiefs, still she always ch'd what they advised, because she would rather oo ii6 IHl'. LAM) Ol" THE .MISKI'C P f t at^ainst her own judgment than let her people sup- pose she was not anxious for iheir good. This explanation pleased, for it reminded Daukhan of the stories his father had told him of the j;''Overnment of his nation in the days wh^^ni the Crees were a great uniced tribe ; but I had misgivings that neither history nor lav- would bear me out in my account of it! ' It was in the midst of this conversation tha'i \ low long-drawn note came to u from the mountain where the Moberley's Lake trail lay. Daukhan v as up in an instant, and putting his clasped hands to his mouth emitted a reply exactly similar. This was again answered, and Daukhan resumed his seat, saying — as John translated it — "It is a person.' It appears this was the regular call of the Indians, and doubtless some Beaver had seen our camp, and was calling out to us to keep up the fire and have ^he kettle ready for a welcome. Here was lixk ! The very thing we thought we had mis'-';f!. So the talk resumed, now on one topic, now on another, until an hour had gone by, when, no one having come, Daukhan called again. This time there was no answer. Another call w^as as fruitless, and after a w:ilk round to a spot where a full view of the mountain could be obtained, and no fire was se^-n, I^aukhan sat down, saying it was a " chepi or ghost that we had heard. I was a little incredulous. " What else could it be ?" .^ ON TlUl TRACK OF A ( rEMZZILT II he asked; "it is not an owl. nor l :. . : c a wolverine; we heard the loons yefCirizT h v -^^ not a younLj- bear. Nc. it was i .::i.t;: — ^: 1 hr went on to explain how before die Ie:i— --- wtre civilised (this was the word \ohri. ^^--l - H5 translation) they had killed zjad tm t-- ---' tiziih other recklessly; that the shoce.^ .:c ' T .-—;.-: js Lake were full of I'hosts : how di*; : ., : ibv- inexplicable noises tliat were coasdn^^ : t._-i '.\-^e be explained ? It certainly wlls .1 u^eri — -_ 1 i^ human cry out of the darkness, and r^ ~^- >- to explain it ; for, as Daukhan said, i Z- .-. - - -.^-^ ^s well at night as by day, and s<ieinc .~: lie would surely have come to it. Xocir . __ rr^sd the riddle, and with this real gh- .^^r-^nrr - .ui minds we made our beds and Dn;..,_r-" " - -,".---^, by the glow of the dying hre. Eiiu l ~.,„: -:- startling scare was awaiting us. ' I had just packed my cartridge-b.:-:i ~ -.o-rafSTHi. and heavier clothes under my pillow vi.-: : h-.--^' a heavy step in the dead rushes ;U: die 1^ :' ir^ hke, not twenty yards from where x- vi-- In anctiier second came another sfc;:. x-l,. il^-u anot.ier. I did not need to lo(^k ii: I>r.iiui.._r. v- gue:>s what it was, but when [ die. jr wi:^ : ^t-t him crouching on one knee, with tiis ct:>--: - -'- - h's hand and the gun shedth ly.i '^ at L- - -. :.:, made a silent dash for my ritle, but i^^ -... ^- _„v got its case off; and reassuring mvs-; —^ .: v-^s IT III i i 'i w f ■I ir ^' ; ii8 riii' LAND oi- rm: MrsKico loaded, pushed the safety-bolt u]), and knelt with it ready to fire as soon as 1 could see. " Mysthah- ayah," whispered Uaukhan, and John got to the other side of the fire with the axe in his hand. Slowly the footsteps came towards us, as if tlie grizzly was uncertain to come or no ; and the minute or so seemed a veritable aije. The nioht was pitchy dark. The Hre had died down so low that it threw but a pale and uncertain light over the bushes that rose only ten \ards from us. and shut out the rushes from our view. The st'tps came nearer, so near that I was sure h j must by now be clear of the reeds and already in the little screen of bush that lay between us and him. It was a trying and exciting moment, but I felt pretty confident in my 500-exi)ress, and was getting impatient to have the thing over. But once clear of the reeds the footsteps ceased. Evidently he was waiting to decide which he would charge, and Daukhan and I, like two statues, knelt in motionless expectation. The tension was becoming unendurable, for at such close quarters, and in the dark, the encounter would be a pretty uncertain matter, and I was watching the bushes with such strainin<>' eves for the least sign of motion that more than once they all seemed to dance and vanish to my aching sight, ' A full two minutes must ha\'c; passed in this anxious silence when our ears were saluted with a chuckling chirrup, so pert, so sudden, so completely f ox THI' TRACK Ol' A C.RV/.ZLY 119 (T absurd, that for a moment I could make nothino- of it. But a little shake of boughs and another volley of chatterino- explained It all. To use a slan_ phrase, the squirrel had got the lau_«;h on us! I could not help bein"- rather olad, as we o-ot back lau-^hino- to bed, that Daukhan had been as much fooled as I was. Certainly nothino- more like the tread of a heavy, slow-movinj^ beast can be imagined than the series of leaps with which this alarming little animal had made its way through the dense forest of rushes.' IIAKI'OON I'OIN'IS 1^, I ^\ f A CHAPTER VI JOHN'S PROPHECY So now Wit had to hurry on again, for we had lost valuable time, and Daukhan said that tlie bears were moving up to the foot-hills, where the berries were now^ ripening. In one place we discovered another deserted camp of the Beaver Indians. They had apparently been hunting in the country, but had made a raft and gone down the Pine River. Unfortunately they had had several dogs with them, and these had ranged the whole valley hunting. I should imagine that there were at least five of them, for we found footprints in many soft places. A bear will travel any distance to avoid a dog, and so we saw no fresh signs for some time. This was most unlucky for us, as the country was full of raspberries and a sweet berry called the saskatoon, which the bears are very fond of. In fact, we had intended to make some stay at this point and hunt, for Daukhan had said that two Indians had once killed thirty black bears and two grizzlies in two days amongst the berry bushes upon the hillsides near that part of the river. 120 ' ,1 •> 1 ii 4' John's pRoi'Hiicv 121 But the dogs had driven the game out of the district. Our stock of bacon was getting alarmingly low so we decided to knock off meat altogether. We had still a considerable amount of grease, so we fried the bread for our meals. Besides the bacon and flour we had some dried fruits, which we took twice a week to counteract the unwholesome effects of too salt a diet. This fruit now stood us in -ood stead, and we ate it every other day as a second course after the bread and fat. But every day it became more imperatively necessary for us to find game, and lean less heavily on our scanty stock of provisions. It will be remembered that we had bought all the available pack-horses in the countrv and had loaded them as heavily as we dared ; bui although we had eaten the two small bear cubs and the beaver, we had been too busy travelling to keep the camp in meat with our rifles. Now\nd again we had added a grouse or a duck to our supper, and at times had chanced upon a feu- rabbits ; but so paltry an addition did not suffice to feed seven hungry men even for one meal. A single man travelling through the country would probably be able to snare enough rabbits to keep off starvation, but a large party is more difficult to feed. The Indians themselves, who generally hunt in small parties, depend greatly upon rabbits. But I ul \y\ 122 rill': LAND OF riii' mi'ski-c. i« for some mysterious reason the rabbits in the North- West die out every seven years. Between whiles there; arc; a fair number all through the country ; but every seventh year they disai)pear, so that on(; may travel for months without coming across a single; one. The consequence is that at these times many of the Indians starve, and as the game in the district becomes more scarce, the number of deaths amongst the natives becomes greater every seventh year. The vast majority of the Indian tribes, both in Canada and in the United States, are supported by the Government. But it must be borne in mind that these northern Indians are not even British subjects, but are an alien race upon a soil that is British only in name. In a few years the Hudson's Bay Company will be compelled to withdraw its officers, as the fur trade will no longer be of any importance. Then the natives JOHN mm^m ^mm^gmmm wm mmm M the veen the Dear, •t John's pkoi'hixv 123 will have no bartering-place for their goods, and indeed would have nothing to barter when the fur- bearing animals are finally killed out. Unable to till the ground, and in a land where all but the carnivora will be extinct, they will undoubtedly starve unless the Government steps in and saves them, and burdens itself with the; feeding and clothing of some 12.000 souls. The future of the country is not bright, nor was its present aspect very cheerful about the time of which I_ am writing. We continued to march for some time through a succession of muskegs and patches of fallen timber, whilst a drizzling rain continued to fall during almost every day. Once we had a really fine daj', and made our camp in the evening in high spirits, for the sky was cloudless and the night still. We were so sure of the weather that we did not even unfurl the tent or stretch the fly, but made our beds where we pleased, and turned in under the shelter of some magnificent trees, con- fident of a good rest after our day's work. About one o'clock in the morning, however, it bcQan to rain in torrents, and did not stop until midday, [t had been so dark that we could not find our tent- roll, and therefore we had returned to our blankets and slowly became soaked. I think I have seldom passed a more miserable night. I had a waterproof sheet under my bedding, and on getting up found that it had most inconveniently held the water, I I 1; t i •^ ■?» J T lift ir '1 1 1 124 Till' r,AM) ()!• Till' MrsKi:r, and that I was surrounded by a pool six inches deep. We spent the mornint^ drying our blankets before a huge fire. John, who was helping us in this, and who had been silent for some moments, suddenly turned towards us and said, ' Gentlemen, we shall meet three Beaver Indians to-morrow on the river.' Of course we all imagined that he was joking, but Round told us that whenever John pro- phesied the coming of strangers he was always right. He said he had known him for close upon fourteen )ears, and that he had never made a mis- take about this. The most of us were incredu- lous, thinking that the whole thing was absurd ; but John stuck to it that he was right, and that we should see on the morrow. On the following day we scattered through the country in search of meat. Daukhan and I had started towards the river, intending to ford the stream on horseback, and then leave our animals and hunt to the right of the camp, when we were joined by Round and John, who also wished to cross the river and hunt to the left. The river was very rapid, and the stones ■ .ppery, so that the horses stumbled and lurched in the swift water in a manner not very pleasant to the rider. When we reached the southern shore we tethered our horses and were on the point of starting into the bush when we saw something moving on the river some distance • I ■■^ JOHN S I'ROPHIXV 125 further down. We waited, and presently a canoe came round the point. Now it must be remembered that since we left Dunvegan, nearly two months before, we had not seen a single human being-, and this made John's prophecy the more extraordinary, for there had been nothing to show that we should meet these Indians. John himself showed no sur- prise at seeing them, but simply remarked that he knew they were coming and was glad they had arrived. He afterwards told me that he had not always possessed this gift of second-sight, but that he had had it since the death of his infant daughter some fifteen years before. He said that he was upon an island on the Peace River, twenty miles from Dun- vegan, when one afternoon something told him that his child was dead, and that a man was coming to him in a canoe to break the news. After a few hours the man came, and ever since then he had always known when he was going to meet any one, and from which direction they would AM. All M MOnil.U !' i^ ■I u I ' -.'J i T 'J1 m ' ■■, I "•< I 1 1 126 THi'. l.AM) ()!• nil. Ml SKi:(i I . come. lie added that sometimes people came when he iiad had no presentiment ; but when he had had the presentiment they were sure to come. Whilst he was talkini,^ the canoe had approached, so wc went down to the water's edge and signalled to the Indians to come ashore. They proved to be Beaver Indians, three in numljcr, as John had foreseen, — a young man, his wife and mother, — and more wretched specimens of humanity I have never seen. We made a tire for them, ujx)!! which they produced dried meat and grease, and we all ate. Then we began to talk, John was able to make himself understood, and could interpret, so that we got along fairly well, althou- ' it is always difficult to explain one's meaning to a savage, and to under- stand his ideas in ireneral, for their minds do not work the same way as a white man's, and you can never tell what they really think. Fifty years ago the Indians of the North- West were in the stone-hatchet period. Many of the tribes have made extraordinary mental strides in so short a time, but there has been little progress among the Heavers, so that one comes across the anomaly of a man with a jjrimitive, stone-imi^lement-period mind, carrying in his hand that product of centuries of thought — ^the Winchester rille. His ideas and wants are expressed in a series of chucks and grunts, and he is careful to move his lips as little as jDOSsible in speaking. It would be impossible to shout in V 1 *.l^ JOHN S l'R()I'lli:C\' 27 Ills Iaii!^-iiaj4(-. Ic us(,-s pninitivi: L;e.slLircs, iJoiiuin<,^ to mountains or trees when lie speaks of tluMii, aiitl sigiiilyin^T the cle|)arture of an animal or person hy throwing- out !;is hand before him. The three specimens of the iJe.iver trihe who had joined us were u-ly heyond description. They were small, emaciated, and scrofulous. ' Allah.' the youno- man of tlu' party, was especially revoltinn-, and he had a habit of spittino- every few minutes with a horrible recklessness of aim. All Heaver Indians look weakly, and as a fact lew of them are strong. lUit one never knows what a man will do when [nit to it. and thinking- that a little lielp would be better than none at all, we asked him to join our expedition as axe- man. He said that he had been to Fort MT.eod through the Pine Pass, and s(^ we thoug-ht that even if he was not strong enough to chop he would be useful as a guide. We told him that we would give him a horse as |)a)-ment if he would join us. He answered that he would visit our camp on the following day, and make up his mind whether he would come, and that if he de- cided to do so his wife and mother could pack their goods to IMoberley's Lake on their Ixacks. ' iil I . i I 128 'nil' I. AM) oi" rill': miski.o \ 3 h ■' AccordiiiLj^ly he came next clay to the camp with his family, and told iis that he would join us for the pay a<j[rced upon. lUit he said that he would not be able to come at once, as he must wait until his wife and mother had matle him more; moccasins. On hcjarini:^ this we asked thtMii to make some moccasins for our party, for which we paid them in jj^oods. The old lady, Allah's mother, who was of most forbidding aspect, and smoked an exceedingly rank pijje, made us a present of bear-meat and dried moose-meat ; and this civility we returned, as they expected, by a large present of tea and tobacco. They had killed a coui)le of small black bears on the river-bank, and this showed us the more clearly that the only way to move through the country was in canoes. A pack-train is always noisy, and when there is much chopping to be done is calculated to frighten away the game. Also the neighing and tramping of the horses at night would disturb the country for a long distance around the camp. A canoe, on the other hand, moves very silently, so that a man may hunt as he travels, and will find the game unprepared for his coming. Allah himself was extraordinarily dirty and unattractive, and his manner of eating and general behaviour was not pleasant, so that we did not relish the idea of having him for a constant companion. On an expedition of this kind one is compelled to live very close to the other members of the party, often JOHN S l'R()I'IIi:CV 129 slecpiiii^r under the same shelter with them, and always eatinj,^ from the same loaves of breail or dish of meat ; and so wlieii you have a man with you who spits anioni^st the cookinL,^-pots and plates, and who is not even careful to avoid the meat, there is no escape, and you can only warn him not to do so again, and i;rin and bear it as best you can. to md the A so the lelf his not of an live ;en LODUIS However. Allah had brought us fresh meat and moccasins, which were of great service to us. It was very pleasant to return to a more rational diet after our long course of fried bread ; for we had soon found that a man cannot do much hard work without substantial food. The dried moos(> was especially excellent, being crisp and sweet to the taste. The Indians make a mixture of dried meat and grease, which is called pciniuican, and no more sustaining food can be procured. It can be com- pressed into a small space, and so is easily carried. 130 'rni>: land oi- viu-. .MUSKi-xi my ; it I ly riit 1 >' .(I fi li A wonderfully smal. quantity is sufficient for a meal, and 1 should advise any one proposing- to travel through the North-West to procure this by send- ing a messacre to one of the Northern forts some time before he arrives in the country, as it may be difficult to get enough meat at short notice. When all was ready we started again, and con- tinued to move up the valley of the Pine Riv(;r amongst the foot-hills, huntin<j as we went on both sides of the stream. When we wished to cross, we either made rafts of logs or waded in the shaUower places, and thus we managed to explore the whole v;illev. Now and again we heard the young bears playing amongst the fallen timber, or the older ones coughing as they ate the wild berries; but not once could we get a siijht of them. The bush was thick and rotten, and the ground covered with dead branches and twigs, so that it was almost impossible to move without making a noise. Daukhan, who was one of the best native hunters, could walk quietly enough to get near game when by hinj-elf. But 1 do not believe that any white man could stalk in such a country, and the bush is so diick ihat one must ^ct within a few yards of an animal before one can see it at all. Only a few of the Indians are sufficiently expert to creep up to a bear, and the majority are obliged to kill the greater part of their game in trapr> All this we began to realise, and after repeated JOHN > PRorHECY 1^1 The any the few all. -t to d to ;itcd failure we gave up luintiii;^- in the bcf£i JiS l T-=.^"'---^« wr.3te of time, and nio\ed on towjuri:- "ltt - r^r open mountains, where we hoj^ed " : iriirr.-jr chance of success. Hy this time we z,i^ ' -i all tlu; nieat (in the course of three tii^-^'t i.- _ .-^ _ retLUMied to our diet of hread And tliL irrti - -' '■: using u\) our flour far more quickly than we should. One day Daukhan managc;d to kill two s m a 1 1 beavers, but these did not last us long, so he turned his attention to the river again, in the hope of discovering an- other dam. In many places we foun^l open |)aths, al)t)ui ih.ree tteH \Ki«i-r. iir zht woods leading down to tlie water. wLiDdi iit~ l»ren made In' l\u: beavers as they dnig:g;<tti rrjt 'tog^ towards the' river. Daukhan said Le butt ■wrkZ'.h^d them many times, antl that they woiiTd ^:t carrv Ioljs more than sixteen feet lon^ ''•^r '- ( wirKP PHJ-: V. . r- 132 THI' LAMJ OF IHi: Mi;.SKi:(i 'I 1 :f I along these roads. It seems that when they have used all the suitable trees ne^ir the water, thev cut a road throuirh the underbrush and seek timber on the hillsides. Then they cut down a tree with their teeth, and having gnawed it into lengths, haul it down the path to the water-side, carrying it in their mouths, and turning their heads slightly over their shoulders so that the log may drag behind them. Daukhan said that he had seen them leave a tree half cut when the)' saw that it would not fall clear, but would remain resting upon another. The beavers build their dam when the river is low in the autumn, so that they may have a deep pool during the winter months. The shallow water will be frozen solid, but there will always remain a little open water under the ice in the pool in which they can swim. Of course at night, or in time of danger, they retire to the ' lodtje ' b(Mieath the bank. When the river rises in the spring, the dam is washed away ; and then the male and young travc.l about the stream as they choose, but the female remains in the vicinity of the lodge. The Indians generally capture the beaver in steel traps set under the water in the shallows. The animal, swimming towards the shore, feels for the bottom with his feet, and so treads uj)on the trap. But a beaver has a very keen sense of smell, and to counteract the scent of the hantl and the steel of the ^ ^» 1 loiix s l'R()l'^l■:c^■ 133 drat,^ steel The )r the trap. nd to )f the trap the natives smear the metal with the oil which is extracted from the animal itself, so that it believes that all is safe, and thinks that another beaver has just landed in this place;. It is exceedinyh' difficiili to i-et a shot at these animals, as they are extraordinarily wary. I laving found the 'lodge,' the hunter chooses a conxenient spot on the bank, and sits with his riile on his knee waiting for the beaver to appear. Two, and some- times three, hours may pass before the beavers move ; then they come out and .swim near the bank, AIM.U A IIAKII II \N keeping a sharp look-out. At the least suspicion of a movement on the p;irt of the man they would rush back to their holes, and remain there for the rest of the da\". Suddenl)' the hunter sei/es his rifl«; and shoots as quickly as possible, from either shoulder, as the case may recjuire. Daukhan was I vr « ^ . i ! ' *■ f . 134 rill<: LAND Ol' THM MUSKIiCi an expert at this kind of shooting, which requires very great patience and a rapid aim. In this way ht: killed several animals for the pot. I)iit ;is a rule we had to content ours(;lves with the fried bread. We found a few trout in the river, but they were very hard to catch, and paid little attention to our baits. Once or twice we managed to shoot one, but they were generally small. The country was becoming worse and worse, and was full of muskegs and choked with fallen timber, so that we had to cho[) a path for the pack-train. As an axe-man Allah proved quite useless, as we had feared, and so our progress was but slow. At last we left the foot-hills and entered the main range of the Rockies, camping by the river under a large mountain, which, with the customary humility of a traveller, I named Mount Somerset. The weather had, as usual, been abominable, and we had hardly been dry for days, but now the sky had cleared a little, and we made up our minds to leave the horses and camp in the charge of Round, Ramsey, and the 1 )octor, and start out amongst the mountains for a week's hunt with Daukhan. The hill was so steep that we should be unable to take a pack-horse with us, so we settled to pack our provisions on our backs, taking John and Allah, who would leave us upon the hio-hcr ground, and would return with a fresh stock of provisions in a few da)s. After this John was to remain with i i I H\ John's prophfxy ^35 requires the pot. •cs with he river, lid little nanaged 11. The ind was iber, .so in. As we had he main under a iLimility . The and we sky had to leave Round, igst the !. The to take ick our Allah, id, and ions in in with us as interpreter, but Allah might return to the main camp in the valley if he wished to do so. This arrangement suited everybod>-, so we made our preparations as quickly as we could. A lll-.M) OF TllE I'.NK ii i '<■ ' fl Ell i '■■ f ^ |y;i «f .j CHAPTER VII ON THK SNOW-LIN i; Seplcuiber is/. — Early in the morning we made up our packs, and, turning our backs to the river, started towards the mountain. We each carried a bhmket and a few necessaries, besides four loaves of bread and our rilles. The packs weighed about thirty pounds each, and with a ten- poimd rille made a sufficiently heavy load for mountain- eerintj:. After strusf- gling through about a quarter of a mile of driftwood and underbrush, we came to the foot of the torrent- bed, which seemed the easiest route up the steep slope. The day was very hot, and the heat beat back from the rocks, making the narrcjw gorge into a sort of nafu^al Turkish bath. The small stream rendered the rocks as slipp(!ry as glass, so that we were obliged to rest every two or three IM •nil-; .siAKi' » i II ox Tin- SNOW-LINl- 137 hundred feet to recover our breath. About noon Daukhan discovered some ^^v\zy.\y tracks leading up the mountain to the ritrht. and we immedl^ itely determined to follow them. The side of the hill was littered with fallen trees, and was very steep, so that it was with great difficulty that we made our way. A heavy pack is alwaxs an awkward thing, ;uid very greatly increases the difficulty of climbing a steep and slippery hill. It was quite impossible to follow the signs over the hard ground, so we simply plodded on' at our best pace in the hoi)e that we might catch a sight of the bear before he disappeared over the spur of the mountain, l-'rom the tracks we had seen we judged that the animal was of large size. _ After a time we came to a patch of berries of a kmd which we had not seen before. They grew on a small bush like the blueberry, and indeed somewhat resembled them in appearance, but were three times the size, and black in colour. As we found a great abundance we rested and made quite a feast. Presently we came to the ridge, and. sitting down, searched with a glass the amphi- theatre which we had just left, but saw nothing of the bear. We therefore moved down the easrern slope, and cooked a small lunch near a pool of water. Allah, the Beaver, who was a man with a very gross appetite, was ciuite unable to restrain himself at the sight of food, and ate an alarming I I } N n m if 138 nil' LAM) oi' riii- MrsKi:(; ' I 1 amount of our scanty store. After lunch we re turned to the top of the ridge, and, as we had heard some marmots whisiHng-, sent Allah and John back to the eastern slope to try and get some for dinner, Daukhan, Pollen, and 1 remaining in the amphitheatre to watch for the bear. At some time long past a forest fire had swept over the mountain, leaving the slo[)es covered with dead, whitened logs. The ground was rocky and without cover, and the whole country had a melancholy aspect. Towards evening a strong west wind came up, making the air intensely cold, so that it was with a feeling of relief that we left our post and set out to find a camping-place. Water was scarce, but at last we found a small pool lying between two ledges of rock, and there we decided to camj). The place did not lov>k promising, but it was the best we could find. We made a fire, and awaited the arrival cf our pot-hunters. y\bout dark they came up with four marmots. A marmot is very like a grey beaver, with a bushy tail. His back is brown, turning to grey (wer the rump. AN AMPlUllll.ATUK *J i' ON' Till' SNOW-LIN I-: 139 He has two lon<r brown teeth in the front of the upper jaw. which give a strangely comical look to his face. The whistle of these beasts is at first very startling, and one is sometimes inclined to answer, under the impression that some person is anxious to attract one's attention. The sin-le clear note is very loud, and can be heard a long distance off. A marmot is light for its size, only scaling about twelve pounds. We immediately set to work to cook the results of the hunt for our supper. A roasted marmot is not bad food, but as he has about an inch of fat all over him he is inclined to be disagreeably greasy when eaten without a plate. Allah's table manners were too disgusting to mention. After supper John made a confession. It seems that shortly after leaving us Allah had turned up the ridge, whilst John had chosen the rough rocks at the foot. Allah had seated himself upon a rock waiting for the reappearance of a marmot, Avhen suddenly a grizzly had turned the corner and come face to face with him. John had immediately shouted to Allah to run back and fetch us, but the Beaver Indian had preferred to remain where he was, and. seated upon the rock, had continued to fire his rifle into the air. even after the bear had long got out of earshot. This was the tale. Of course John had the advantage over Aliali in that he spoke English; but still I daresay that his * '1 I 1 >' M ,1 [ \i n ifp ■ 1/ J ^t 140 IIII'. LAND OI' rni'. MCSKI'-.C iiccount was tolerably correct. As may in; ima- gined, \V( were not very much pleased, more especially when Daukhan tt)ld us that the bear had probably travelletl a long way. Allah's i)osi- tion had without doubt been a trying one, but it seemed to us that once the bear had turned tail, the necessity for firing had ceased, and that a golden ojjportunit)' had been lost to us, for we were, as the\' well knew, onlv half a mile away, and had they told us at once, we could have got to the other slope in a few moments, and very likely would have been able to cut off the bear's retreat. The wind had risen with the comine of the niLrht, and now blew a perfect hurricane. We wrapped ourselves in our scanty blankets, and tried to fmd solace for our disappointment in sleep. But all to no purpose. Gusts of wind swept over the ledges of rock, and literally tore the blankets from under us. We tried to remedy this by strapping our beds to us with our portage-straps, but even when thus secured stray ends would be torn away, and would flap noisily about our feet. To add to our discomfort, we had nothing in the shape of a pillow except the two extra pair of ON I III: MIKIII si'l K ' mmmmmmmmmmBmmmam ON THH SNOW-LINI-: 141 moccasins wliicli wc (,'acli carried. The colt! was intense at so high an altitude, and the remains of the fire were soon scattered by the wind. Alto- gether our camp was a miserable failure, and I can say that, for my part, I have seldom passed a night in greater discomfort. September 2nd. — At the first signs of light we were up and off. marching along the eastern slope of the mountain. We wen: all in very low spirits after our chilly night. The mountain was bare and rocky, and slopetl gently to the east. Far below^ us we could see the timber-line showing dark against the rock ledges and brown scrub. We kept just below the snow-line of the peaks, and were often troubled with soft marshv ravines. John complained much of earache, so we decided that, as we had killed three marmots during the morning, he and Allah should take them down to the camp on the Pine. There had been no fresh meat in the camp for some days, and we knew that the marmots would be a welcome change after the long course of fried bread. John thought that if he could get a night in a warm cami) his ear would allow him to return to us on the following day ; and at all events Allah would be able to come back to us at the same time with some more bread, as had been originally arranged. Allah said he would be perfectly willing to return up the mountain, and that a!iog(ither the arrangement w^ould suit him . : \>v\ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 ;-IIIM IIM '" lU |||||Z2 |36 lllll^ v° Hill 2 IIIW 14 IIIIII.6 6' v] %^^ >^ w ^"^ ■f^/. >. '> /A ■n- '/W om m Photographic Sciences Corporation 4k 4^ o ^^ ^./v ''v\^ "^*> ''^(S^ ^ V <> ^9,'- 23 WCsT MVN SiREET WEBSTER, NY 14580 (716) 872-4503 I I Q- f/i FV §' 142 THF. LAND OF THE MUSKKG I, !' IP '^1 very well. Accordinj^ly they left us in the early afternoon, as soon as we had agreed upon a rendez- vous for the next day. We were now alone with Daukhan without an interpreter. We had both picked up enough Cree for hunting purposes, but our vocabulary was somewhat limited, and our conversations were sometimes very funny. Daukhan had a great sense of humour, so that our camp would have presented to any one who could have seen it the extraordinary sight of three people gesticulating wildly — using two languages, and now and again interrupting one another with roars of laughter. After lunch we climbed the mountain, and emerging througli a pass, stationed ourselves on three spurs of the western ridge to scan the country. It was arranged that if any of us saw a bear he should signal to the others, v;ho would immediately join forces, and we would then commence the attack in a body. As no game was sighted, we returned through the pass, and, after shooting a marmot, headed to camp. As I have already said, we were a long way above the timber line, but we found a sort of scrub-pine, about two f'^et high, with the roots of which we made a fair fire. September ^rd. — The night had been warmer than the first, but a sharp frost drove us round the fire in the early hours of the morning. Im- mediately after breakfast we returned to our watch- 1; ON THE SNOW-LI NI<: H3 inu posts of the previous afternoon. The day was absolutely still and clear, and the view incomparable. North and south, as far as the eye could reach, lay the snow-capped peaks of the Rocky Mountains, softenino; into a dim haze of white, hundreds of miles each way. The Rockies here are not of very great height, but have a wonderful ruggedness of outline, so that in the clear air they stood out like fresh-cut cameos against the sky. On the hillside below us some ancient fire had swept over the forest. The rain of years had washed the blackened bark from the dead trees, leaving them gaunt, grey, and barren like a spectral forest in Dore's illustra- tions of The IWmdcring Jew. On the far side of the valley the slopes were clothed with a dark green pine forest, above which rose a rugged mountain with the glimmer of a small lake showing above the timber-line. We had not been at our posts more than an hour when a wolverine— an animal half- bear, half-fox— came stealing up the mountain and passed within a few yards of us. It had a most beautiful skin, but we were afraid to fire, as the morning air was so still that we feared lest we should arouse the whole countrv. During the afternoon we had explored the northern part of the mountain, findin<r rnanv small lakes and travelling over a most picturesque country. On the steep slopes the snow was exceedingly hard, and the constant possibility of a swift glissade and 144 THl- LAND OI- THF. Ml'SKIX. If an ujrly fall on to jagged rocks lent a spice of novelty to the expedition after the many weary weeks of marching in the swampy bush-country. Late that evening Daukhan declared that through the glasses he could discern a bear on the opposite mountain, but it would have taken us a full day of steady marching to reach the spot he indicated, and we were bound to remain in the same camp for that night, as we were expecting the men from the valley to arrive before nightfall, as had been arranged. On our way home we fell in with many ptarmigan, whose white plumage indicated the approach of winter. These we brought back to camp with much joy, thinking to share this welcome change of diet with the weary toilers from the valley. Our little hollow was, however, empty, and we ate our supper in momentary ex- pectation of their arrival. After the meal we talked over the morrow's plans, and decided to move across to the place where Daukhan had seen the bear in the morning. Daukhan seemed in low spirits at our failure to find game, so we solemnly pre- sented him with my field-glasses, accompanying the gift with pompous eulogies taken from the grammar at the end of the missionary prayer-book. Cree is a very hard language to read with any fluency, and we spelt out the long words with much difficulty and hesitation. He, however, seemed to grasp our ox Till' SNOW-LINI.: 145 meaning-, and was much delighted with the attention, makino- us flattering speeches in return, of which we understood little or nothing. He had at times a most impressive manner, and an easy erace and fluency of speech which would have become a Grand Seignior better than a Cree Indian ! Mean- while the wind had been rising, and now howled through the pass in a deafening manner, scattering our little fire as fast as we built it. And so the night settled down without a sign of either John or Allah. After supper Tollen left the camp and walked back over the mountain to the ridge up which the others would have to come in hopes of meeting them. When he came back he gave me an account of a sight that I wish I had seen. From the ridge there is a wonderful view to the south and east over the range, the mountain slopes one behind the other looking like the roofs of streets of houses in .,ome gigantic old-world city. It seemed that to-nic^ht owmg I suppose to some peculiarity of atmospheric conditions, the gorgeous sunset that was at its zenith in the west was almost exactly reproduced in the east, and so there was this extraordinary com- bination.— the mountain-tops Hushed red with the glow of the departing sim. and from behind them wide rays of a vivid pink radiating from the east over the sky, in exact though fainter counterpart to the scenic splendour of the west. Daukhan after- r* V r^ 146 Tlir: LAND Ol" THM ML'SKi:C. wards told us that ho hud seen the same phenomenon on two previous occasions. iM'om our camp in the hollow it was invisibk;. Scptcuibcr i\tli. — The nii^ht had been tree/.ing cold, so that before it was li,L,dit we had huddled round the fire with two pairs of moccasins on our feet in the attempt to keep warm. The wind was still blowinof a uale, and roarinu' as loudlv as on the a HIE M()( K MNM;r previous evening. As no one came by ten o'clock, we decided to mov(,', which we accordingly did, leaving sharpened sticks stuck in the ground to indicate our direction. Having crossed the pass, we went through the forest of gaunt trees, steering for the place where Uaukhan had seen the bear. What could have happened to John and Allah we I. ON Tin: SNOW-LIM. 147 I could not imagine; for althou(,^h John's car miolit have kept him in the slielicrcd valley, Allah's willingness to rettn-n had been expressed in so many apparently heari-fclt chucks that it seemed almost impossible that he could have; changed his mind at the last moment and left us in the- lurch. We had by this time eaten all our bread, but it seemed that the store of marmots was unending, and as these convenient animals continued to indicate their presence by whistling, shortness of food appc^u-txl to be out of the question. On the other hand, had Allah not relished the klv.ii of the long climb, ii would have been far better if he had said so, as :)y waiting for him we had lost much \aluable time, which might have been spent in travelling towards the mountain upon which we had proof that there were bear. We had not gone far into the woods on the rising ground beyond the valk.-y when we espied two figures moving towards us on the slope we had just left. We accordingly made a fjre and waited for them to come up. They turned out to be John and Ramsey. It appeared that John liad been willing to make the ascent on the previous day as agreed, but that Allah had positively refused, and so much time had been wasted in vain expostulation that no one had come to us at all. Ramsey had, however, volunteered to accompany John, and they had accordingly started in the morning, and by marching the entire day had managed to overtake n r / ,f 1 I '»■ 1 r I 11: fit i I ) 148 1 111, I.AM) ()!• nil' Ml SKI.(. us. Tin y were both iitU;rly worn-oul with their exertions. They had hr()u.i;ht broad and other eatal)ies with them ; they also brou.^ht news of a parly of Siccanee or Chinook Indians vvlio had camped near lis. As it was now well on in the afternoon, we moved forward a little way into the timber and there camped. It was the wildest spot I have ever seen — an ideal virgin forest. The ground was very swampy, and covered with a deep carpet of moss. The trees bent one against the other in melancholy decay, covered with long grey lichen and huge fungus. Over- head the matted branches seemed to rot upon the trunks, grey with mould. Huge dead logs strewed the ground, crumbling at the touch of a foot. The place was most melancholy and weird, but a warm fire and a light meal of ptarmigan and bread cheered us and we went to bed in hi<rh I III. \ im;iN I DUKM' ON I HI' S\()\V-L1M-: 49 spirits, while a couple of martens jumped about in the bouj^hs overhead, evidently consumed with curiosity about their unusual visitors. September ^lli, — 'I'he ni_L;ht had been still, but cold, so that lons^' before daybreak we turned out of our blankets and sat round the fire. 'I'herc; was no meat in the camp, but we breakfasted on bread, and then set out for the hi_t,dier f^round. Ik-fore leavinj^' the timber we cut souk; Ioulj sticks upon which to han(( the kettk;, and then made our way over the rocky <j^round towards the lake under the summit. After a heavy climb throuL,di the pine scrub we emer<rcd upon a little green plateau where we decided to camp. The lake lay just above us, overhung- by a steep cliff. The formation of the mountain was similar to that which we had just left, a long backbone running north and south, with steep, narrow spurs on the llanks. Our camp lay between two of these spurs on the eastern slope. Daukhan said he thought this was the place where he had seen uhe bear ; so we looked anxiously for tracks. On the other side of the south(;rn spur there was a small swamp, and there we found the tracks we sought. Vwv griz/.lies had been pla\ing, and had stamped the ground hard with their huge feet. There were two old ones, one of which (the female) was a monster, and all the other tracks were of large size. As the country was very open, we ascended the cliff to watch. Daukhan said that .i < : „ j ' I f 150 THI' LAND ()!■ TUl". MISKI^C. the bears had been upon ihv. ground on the previous eveninsj^, so that had we not been delayed wesliould without doubt have fallen in with them. Thus again had Allah spoilt our hunt. The strength of the wind on the summit of the mountain was im- mense. It was with great difficultv that we were able to walk against it. After spending some time in fruitlessly surveying the country with the glass, we returned to camp and lunched off a marmot, shot at the foot of the cliff near by. As we had seen no more bear signs in the southerly ridges, we determined to try our luck towards the north. In many places the bears liad dug great holes in the mountain-side in search of roots and marmot burrows, proving that they had been in the neighbourhood for some time. This led us to hope that they had not moved far, and every moment we expected to sight them. On the whole, the party kept together, moving cautiously as we topped the ridges, and exploring t;ach piece of ground, as it was opened to our view, with care. There was a motive in keeping close, as at any moment we might have lighted on the whole band, and it would have needed two or three rifles to have accounted for them all. We were in hopes, there being a female in the part}', that the bears would charge if we met them, autl our keeping together was primarily for protection ; for a grizzly is capable of travelling very fast, and if all five ;■ 1 I 0\ Till- SXOW-I.INK 151 were to take it into tlit'ir heads to charL;i' at once, their attack might be siilTiciently formidable. On the shores of the little lake we came across the trail again. The bears seemed to be travelling, but in a leisurely manner. This raised our hopes c< nsiderably, and we marched on faster than ever, passing several ridges and over a good number of gullies and open patches, where we often saw very recent traces of the game. At last, coming to the top of a ridge taller than the rest, and with a far larger range of view beyond it, we sat down and again examined the country, but were as unsuccess- ful as on the previous occasion. And here a fresh disappointment awaited us. A white curtain of mist — smoke, John called it — shut off the view of the northern mountains. Daukhan declared that undoubtedly a heavy snowstorm was coming up, and suggested that, as the bears seemed to have worked towards a piece of forest to the north, we should hurry back to camp, and, if we could, move off so that wf^ might make a fresh camp on their trail that night. So we beat a hasty retreat. But the storm was on us as soon as we had reached our bivouac. Moving was out of the question ; so for about an hour we worked collecting pine-roots for fuel, and making an extemporary shelter of bare branches. And then the snow began to fall. The wind came in strong gusts, driving the snow and sleet towards us. We had, as I have before said, m I'' f »i 152 Till- LAND Ol- Till- .ML SKI:G only one blanket apiece;, a very insufficient coverinj;- in such \V(!ather ; and these were soon wrinnini^' uet. As the storm ajjpeared to be risincj, we rolled ourselves in our coverings, and. cowc^rinjj; round the fire, determined to make the best of what promised to be a far from comfortable ni^ht. September 6ih. — Towards morninj^' the sleet fell less violently, but the wind was still stron.L;". We were of course extremely wet, and chilled through, so that it was a great relief .vhen the light came and enabled us to increase our circulation by moving about the camp. iXway from the fire the air was very cold, so that we rushed back to the fire as soon as we had collected a sufficient quantity of wood. We had eaten the iast of the bread on the previous night, and so had to breakfast on ' straight ' marmot. The greasiness of these animals becomes painfully apparent when eaten without vegetable food, and even to the hungriest man there is something dis- gusting about the sight of one's breakfast spatch- cocked on pine sticks and bathed in yellow melted fat. After breakfast, it was some hours before it was clear enough to see to hunt, and then Daukhan proposed that he should return to the spot which we had left so hurriedly on the coming of the storm, and take another survey of the country. Mean- while, we were to dry out the blankets and try to get some marmots for lunch, as by this time we were completely out of food. During the morning in ,j i > ON THr: SNOW-I.INI' •53 f' I'ollcn shot a marmot, hut sprained his ankle, fallin,«r from a steep rock, and so lor that aftcM-noon was incapacitated from huntin-. I made another trip with Dauklian in a nortii-westerly direction, hut saw no sio-ns for sonK; time. The sto.m liad dislod.<,n'd some lar^e njcks ujjon the ch'ff al)ove camp, and avalanches fell at intervals during;- the day with ;i f^reat noise. We were in very low spirits in conse- quence of our failure to find the hear : hut it is probable that they had known of th(; approach of the storm, and had taken refuge in the timber ; and. indeed, from the signs we found before evenin.r, we made certain that they had moved in a body to the forest we yesterday suspected was their destmation. .So we determined to move after them next dav. Scptcnihcr -jt/i.-^ Another night of snow and sleet had passed, leaving us wet, cold, and exhausted from want of sleep. The storm had driven the marmots into their holes, and we found to our dis- may that our breakfast no longer whistled to us upon the mountain-side. This is one of the dis- advantages of a hand-to-mouth existence. For some time we discussed our jnxsition, uncertain whether to remain and wait for a change in the weather, which might mean some days almost without food ; or to make up our packs and start straight for the Pine River valley. Daukhan said that he thought the winter had come upon the 154 Tin-: l.AXI) Ol" Till' Ml'SKI-C. I mountains, and that he was sure the storm would last a week ; and this decided us to take the latter course. We knew that we had a loni;- march before us, so we looked eagerly about us for something edible. We had thrown the skins of the animals we had eaten in a heap outside camp, and a careful inspection revealed the fact that there remained a li^ht coatiuiT of irristle upon the imder surface. It was of a light bluish colour, and is usually scraped off a hide and thrown away prior to curing. We set to work and scraped this off, procuring from each skin a small wrinkled morsel rather larger than a half crown. This we roasted before the fire and solemnly chewed. It was of course impos- sible to swallow, or even to sever with the teeth, but the process closely resembled eating, ^Yith the added advantage that so small a piece might be chewed for any length of time, and still afford us the same satisfaction. Having made some tea we started for the \alle\ . A fine rain was falling, drenching us to the skin, and the morning was cold and cheerless. By the tinie we reached the timber- line the cold had become intolerable, so we halted and made a fire. Unhappily the tree under which we had taken shelter proved to be very inflammable, and was soon well alight. In a moment every branch was in a blaze, and a column of fire shot up more than a hundred feet hisjh. Fortunatelv this condition of things did not last long, as the fire U^*-"'.^- T^BP^PP ^"•P- ON THI-: SNOW-LINE 155 I burnt itself out quickly. We had lost our shelter, and were much annoyed by the hot ashes which constantly fell upon us ; but we thought ourselves extremely lucky in that we had not started a for(!St fire by our carelessness. Daukhannow became very talkative, revertino- to his questions about l-n_i(land, and the world in j^^ene- ral. He was particularly anxious to know if the big Squaw Chief (the Queen) owned the whole earth as her personal property, and seemed griev- ously disappointed that her property was so limited, and that there were other Oukimows as great as she. He then questioned us about the appearance of London, and England in general, being anxious to understand exactly what animals were found there, and what was the method of their capture. We described a day's pheasant-shooting to him, which delighted him beyond measure ; and going on to fox-hunting, said that luigland was cut up into corrals, like the one at Dunvegan, and that across these men rode at a gallop, jumping the obstacles. He said he considered this extremely dangerous. This conversation had, of course, been carried on through John, who was an excellent inter[)reter, thoi-gh I sometimes imagined that more was said in the Cree than ever came to our ears. When we wrc sufliciently warmed we continued the descent. By the marks on the trees I judged that the snow l;iy to the depth of about thirty feet r \i '. I' I- (,, ! lit "M ! ■56 Till- LAND Ol- Tin-: MUSKIXi in the woods during the winter. Lower down the mountain we came to a tract of burnt timber, and there we again made a fire, and lunched off tea and a few berries. The rain still continued to fall, making the dead logs slippery as glass. Pollen's ankle had not recovered from the injury of the previous day, being still extremely weak. In one particularly bad place it gave way, and he had a nasty fall and sprained his leg most seriously. However, after a rest, he was able to go on, lean- ing upon a stick, having taken off his pack. The fog lay thick over the country, but from time to time lifted for a few moments. Uj >)n one such occasion we distinctly made out the shape of a bear moving upon the ridge parallel to the one we were on ; but before we had time even to take aim the fog dropped, shutting out everything. The lower slopes of the mountain were thickly covered with small trees and underbrush. This made our progress very slow, as our packs caught constantly in the undergrowth. But slowly as we went, Pollen's leg forced him to move slower still, and at last he insisted that he could perfectly follow alone, and that it would be better for us to push on, so as to get into camp as soon as possible, and that once there we could send back a horse for him. We were very reluctant to leave him In his crippled condition, but he was so confident that he could find and follow our trail, and that we could do no ox Tin-: SNOW-LINK 157 good by staying with hi 111, that at last we pushed on ahead, leaving him to follow our track at a more leisurely pace. On reaching the valley we were to make a fire, and then to go on to camp, sending back Allah with a horse to bring him in. After a time we came to the end of a spur, but found to our disappointment that the land fell off abruptly into a sort of mud-slide, sloping to the edge of a high cliff. This forced us to work up the hill again through the sodden bush ; end it was some time before we reached the valley and set to work to build our fire. Suddenly we were startled by the noise of rolling stones. Huge boulders w^ere bounding down the mud-slide above us, and leaping over the edge of the cliff, falling with deafening crashes on the rocks hundreds of feet below. Throui^h the mist we could dimly discern Pollen's figure clinging to a few frail branches, and swinging, as it seemed to us, over the abyss. Every minute we expected the branches to give way, and to see him drop to a certain death. It was a stirring moment, and one I shall not easily forget. Soon the noise of the falling rocks diminished ; the branches still re- mained firm, and it was with infinite relief that we saw him crawl cautiously to a place of vantage, and finally haul himself over the edge of the precipice. It appears that he had followed our tracks through the undergrowth until we came to the end of the Vh V ■ 158 IHI' LAM) OI- THli MUSKI'C. i tl '% 1 i\]\. 'i> Spur. His ankle was causing him great pain, so that though with care he could go down-hill, it was almost impossible for him to ascend. The reason for our detour was obvious, so instead of following us in our ascent, Pollen tried to make a short cut along the face of the mountain above the slide, thus escaping the necessity of a i)ainful climb up-hill. He had not gone far through the bush, however, before he found that a narrower slide ran into the big one from above, and that he was cut off. There was, therefore, nothinir for it now but to work up the hill till he came to firm i^round atjain. A little way up, however, he saw projecting from the centre of the narrow slide a great piece of stone, so large that he made certaui it was the bed lock of the mountain. To reach this only involved a jump of seven or eight feet, and from the rock to the other side was no further. So, balancing himself on iiis stick, he jun^ped, alighting with both feet on the rock. To his horror the whole thing began slowly to move down. At fh'st his on'y chance lay in keeping his balance, and in a second or two he saw that the rock, moving faster and faster, would soon be clear of the bushes, and crashing down the slide to the precipice. So, as a last desperate chance, he leapt, catching at the bushes at the other side, and by the luckiest good fortune got hold of the end twigs 01 a stout ON rni- sNow-LiM-: '59 alder, and swung hcadloiiL^ on to the slide with this frail support in his hand. It was at this moment that we saw him danuliu''- over the edge, whilst the rocks leaped down the slide from the clilV in a roaring torrent, falling a clear three hundred feot into the creek bed below. An experience of this kiml may be interesting A w i.ij oMi: sicii r enough to remember, but 1 do not think that many people who have witnessed it have any keen desire to attempt gymnastic feats again under the same conditi ; for it is by no means a pleasant thing to think that one's life depends upon the strength of a moimt^'in aldc^r. We left Pollen, a good deal shaken by his adven- ture, by the fire, and set off up the valley towards ■ ' l" Us If 'n r f A. 'M' ' 1 ! 1 , , t I 60 nil' LAND OI' TIM' MrSKI'lC, camp, Wc had not eaten since the previous clay. The rain was still falling, and our sodden packs were: as heavy as lead. The way seemed in- terminably long- : I could have sworn it was fifty miles, and yet I found afterwards that a tenth of that exaggerated measurement was more like the truth. A hopeless gloom settled down upon us as we stumbled alono: under our burdens over the rouirh country. It seemed that we should never reach the camp, but were doomed to march eternally for- ward throu'di the drizzle and over the swamp. The sight of one of our horses feeding came to us with all the shock of a revelation ; and the appearance of smoke between the trees seemed like :> glimpse of heaven. A horse was sent back with Allah, who brought Pollen in, and food was prepared while we sat and gloated over the process, and so as the darkness came on we broke our fast and turned into our blankets under the comfortable shelter, feeling that no luxury could compare with a dry bed and an untroubled repose. I IRK l.Ai, CHAP T E R VIII I SHORT CO.ArMON'S A LA/v consciousness of ease and well-being-, of infinite leisure and freedom from trouble, were my first sensations on awakenin.<r. Yesterday's storm continued without any sign of abatement ; so there was nothing of the usual hurry of an early start- nothing of the dread of a long weary march, and the day lay before us full of hope and interest. It is true we had f^iiled in our expedition : our chances of bear were practically gone, and this at another time would have depressed us ; but on the other hand the failure had been an honest one, had come about through no fault of ours, but rather, as it were, through the hand of a pursuing fate, or. as Daukhan said, ' because some one on the mountain was work- ing medicine against us.' A few days of fast marching would undoubt- edly bring us to Fort M' Leod. when we should have accomplished our second aspiration, and have walked across the Rockies through an almost un- known pass. A steady cold rain was falling, driving us under the shelter whilst we ate our lare L m '■f 162 Till-: LAND iH' nil' MISKIX. ^:-, I ''■! c. !f breakfast. There was much to be discussed, and each half of the expedition had its own tales to tell. When Ramsey joined us upon the mountain he had told us of the Chinook Indians who had camped near our outfit, it seemed that they had remained in the same place waiting' for our return. Some small exchange of goods had taken place, so that we found that our breakfast, bear-meat, by the wa\, had been bought from them for a shirt. They had kept our party in meat for some days, always getting something in exchange ; they had also been very anxious to sell furs, wishing to obtain tobacco, soap, and tea, but had been told that the big Oukimows were up the moimtain, and that, as these things belonged to them, no bartering could be done until their return. Before we had finished our meal they came into camp and saluted us. They were, with one excep- tion, all young men. The Siccanee Indians — that is, those who live on the western slope of the mountains — are as a rule better educated and more civilised than the more easterly natives. This at TWO Ol' (IL l{ Msnous I i ■ i r done SHORT COMMONS 163 least is true of the district in which we then wi:re. Farther north the inhabitants of the western slope are said to be much the same as their nei(rhbours. but there is no doubt that the Stewart's Lake, or Carrier Indians, have reached a far higher level than the Beavers, or even the Crces. Our visitors spoke English fluently, not with any grammatical accuracy, which was hardly to be ex- pected, but in a sort of pigeon dialect very droll to listen to. They sat down under the shelter with us, and soon became very much at home, laughing immoderately at the slightest provocation ; as one of them truly remarked, ' Damned Indian laugh all de time.' Among the Crees, as I have already mentioned, it is not considered good form to ask about the results of a hunt. The hunter is supposed either to have killed or to wish to drop the subject. But no false modesty of this kind hindered our friends' utterance. We were asked a string of questions about our luck, and when we confessed to failure, were sweetly smiled upon, and told of their success with a brutality usually found only in the more cultured races. They had come from Fort A^Leod across the mountains, packing their blankets on their backs ; ■» 'i / / " -' s^ Ml )N ■• a ft. I IE f!! *'''^' If I, .is •if '- ' i k i i/ln 64 IHI' LAND or Tlir. MlSKl'C. I I INDIAN I \l (111 All, IIIK TIMK ' or ratlicr, to hti strictly accurate, on the backs of their wives. On the way they had killed two black bear, a few beaver, and many marmots, which they hatl dried. We asked them about our journey to M' Leod, but could ^et no information of any value. They had come by the moun tains, and had never been through the pass, nor had they heard of Indians doinL»' so. This did not trouble us much, as wt: knew that Mr. Dawson had crossed the divide by that route, and were confident that we could do the .same. On being questioned about time they gave curiously varied answers. Charley said that we might reach the fort in fifteen sleeps ; he said that the country was bad until the summit lake was reached, but that we could easilv iret there in four or five days. After that he thought the country v/as open, and that we should find an Indian pitching-trail, which would allow us to make what pace we liked without difficulty. His brother Symon said ten sleeps ; whilst the old man, their father, began by .^,r:m. ;^3V j^'-'Z'y' i $ i\\\M.\:\ .si;m()K T ■■ SIIORI COMMONS '65 ^ UN Sd.s i)i,ii(iiM]i< ■sayin.tr a month of long mnrchos. hut came down to nght sleeps on bein.i,^ (luestionech Wo already saw that w(.' should not reach Oues- nelle by the time on which wi had calculated, so that these various reports set us specu- latin<,r, and with the natural hopefulness bred of a full diet, we chose to believe that \\v were already well within reach of civilisation. The Chinooks seemed p^reatly amused by our camp, and we pleased them much by showincrthem our revolvers, express rhles. and whatever came to hand which was new or strano;e. A larcre pocket-knife, filled with a multi- plicity of tools, especially excited their wonder ; but not their envy. for. as Cha/les very truly said, it wvas 'too much plenty.' We had. how- ever, to keep a sharp look- out on our belongint^-s, as the tribe has a rei)utation for a certain deftness of touch which mi<> ( II \KI l.\ II Nil 'K ht be called stealinL,^ by one not interested in their spiritual welfare. I am bound to say that they made secret of this failing-, for they had not been with no 1 66 riii' LAM) oi' nil' Ml SKiu; i'/ ; 'hi : us half an hour before Charley informed us, with an expression of deep regret, that our tobacco-case was too heavy to steal. Our stock of Hour was becoming painfully low, so that wc thought it advisable again to cut down the allowance of bread, and to serve out a quarter of a cake^ to each per meal. The allowance was short, but we had to make the best of it, and to live as far as possible on the half-dried marmots which we bought from the Indians. The meat was very high— in fact, almost putrid ; but we had no choice, and necessity at times almost made it palatable. Among other books in the camp there was Thomas V{:iV(\y''^ Far from f/ic Maddino- Croivd. We had little or nothing to do, and I spent hours in reading it. In the book are many references to the food of the English labourer. Men sit upon gates and eat ham and bread, or feast in barns upon cheese and cider. I had to put the book back into the packs and try to forget its existence. The contrast to our rotten marmot was too tantalising, and it was not until I was once more surrounded with the necessaries of life that I finished the interesting tale. When a man is working on short commons he becomes hungry, but he has not quite the same long- ing for a full meal that comes to him when idle. The Chinooks waxed eloquent upon the food we should ' About three ounces. I le SHokr COMMONS ct at MLcod. 'Yes,' they would say, \6'J kinds of muck- bisciiits— yes. ev'yth yes, al plenty ;i-muck at M'Leod; jam. cak you see by-'n-by; plenty Ml!' — muck-a-muck, you s(!e.' Charl have a <rreat love for ( juesnelle and the district ; this h c explained to us. coimtry Quesnelle-much whisk ey s(;emed to surroundiniL;- ' Y(.'s, < >ood y, .i^ood.' We asked m<)- with some tradi some very fair beavet ow stringent the laws ians. ' Me em— -good th him how he oot it, knowinn- h were against .^ivin^- anythini^- to Ind .L^ittum.' lie would answer, 'Sywash' ,t;ittum all the time— me steal man at Ouesnelle dam fool- country.' We did them, obtainin; skins in exchange for shirts, or orders drawn upon the Hudson's Bay Com- pany. All Indians are ^jrcat gamblers. We had heard the boats' crews beat- ing the tom-tom and shouting round their fire at the Athabaska Landing, but had nevcn- until now had a chance to watch their game. The process is simple. They squat in two lines opposite each other, each man facing his adver- sary. The players have two sticks of equal length, one of which has a small notch in the middle. Taking the sticks in the palms of their hands, they wave them about, changing them with wonderful ' liiili;ui, from the i rciicli sutivart: IJAMHI.INi; sir( Ks Ci m ;^ I; r. e I M m ! , ! ■ i 1 68 THE LAND OF THI<: MISKF-G quickness from hand to hand in the attempt to deceive the opposite hne. These watch the pro- ceedings as carefully as possible, waving their oj^en palms. Suddenly they clap their hands and point with one fmger in the direction in which they imagine the marked stick to be. Hands are promptly opened, and, should the guess prove to be correct, the loser takes a small peg out of the ground and passes it over to the luckv fjuesser, the exact value of these coun- ters having, of coiu'se, been arranged before the game begins. Then the notched sticks are passed over, and so the game goes on. Throughout the whole performance the men repeat the same wordless chatter, which is almost a chant, whilst time is marked upon a tom-tom or the top of a kettle. Neither party is ever still for a moment, IDM-IOMs i m^- •G : attempt to Itch the pro- l;" their open Is and point which they laoine the ;irkecl stick be. Hands s promptly ^ncd, and, ould the ess prove to correct, the cr takes a all peg- out the ground I passes it ^r to the ky guesser, exact value these coun- > having, of rse, been he notched e goes on. men repeat )st a chant, ■ the top of II moment. , SHORT COMMONS 169 but both shout and wave their arms, and keep time to the music by jerking their bodic. c.p , ,ul down. When any number of Indians join in this ganie the din may be heard for miles. It appears iliat they gambled long before the advent of the whites, and certainly to this day men will lose everything, to the very clothes on their backs, in a single Q;amc. On the evening of the ihirtl day after ou^- return from the mountains the rain stopped, and we de- termined to move on the following day. The only drawback to moving was Pollen's sprained leo- which threatened at hrst to be a serious affain But three days' rest had done a good deal, and the time had given him considerable skill in bandaging It. When the time came to move, he founc? he was perfectly able to do his share of the packino-. though compelled to ride on the march. Tl^e horses gave us much trouble, being very fresh after their long rest, so that it was late before we were ready to start. We said good-bye to the Chinooks, wishing them a successful hunt, and receixing ,nany expressions of goodwill in return. The country was fair])- open, and we had gone (luite a long distance, when, hve hours after leaving camp, we canu; to a dense forest of small pine.^ rhis gave- us much work, as it was quhv impossible to get the horses through without chopping a path About dark we came to a small open space, and there camped. Aftc-r supper we sat round the i]vc lyo THI' LAM) Ol- Till' .MISKIX; •;; ' } i^ i IH 1 1 kr t. and discussed the food question. We had bought all the marmots we could get from the Chinooks. The fat on the meat was quite putrid, but we thought it best to eat whatever part of the lean we could find in a better condition. Besides the marmots, we had only a very little bacon, a few [)ounds of grease, and a little flour left. We had expected to find a country abounding in game. A deer or two would have gone a long way to make our provisions last. At least, we had expected to get a bear. But none lldKSKS IN IlilWN riMUKl; of these things had happened. Two small black bear, a few beaver, and one or two /ouse, were all we had got during the whole trip. We talked a Ljood deal, but came to no con- elusion. All wv. could do was to hope that we mi^ht have a little luck, and fall in with some animal soon. On th\: following day we marched steadily forward up the valley ; the weather was cold and dull, and the country very bad indeed. The bush was so thick that, working our hardest, we could njver make more than a mile and a half an hour. Rotten logs strewed the ground, covered with thick moss. Here and there we came to ) i ' "T ROt n i 11 {f T.I ■! !3 ■ r 172 rui' i,A\n oi' vwv. miski-c. large patches of ' devil's clubs ' {Fatsia horrida). The [)lant grew to the height of about two feet ; the leaves are very large, and have a mildly innocent appearance. But the stalk under the big leaves is covered with long and intensely sharp thorns, which pierce the llesh and break off, causing a painful sore. The order of our march was as follows : — Daukhan walked first, selecting the best road, and clearing the more impene- trable thickets with a hatchet or hunting- knife. Next came John, with an a.^e, with which he chopped off the thicker branches, and generally did the heavy work, under the guidance of Daukhan. Then followed Allah, mooning along with his toes turned in, without an axe and without having any share in the work ; in fact simply taking gentle and beneficial exercise at our expense. It must be remembered that we had brought him with us for two reasons — firstly, because we wanted an axe-man ; and secondly, because he said he knew the route to APLeod through the pass. I think he had been there, but, as the event proved, any babe rillC AXK-MKN HAD To CMIAR A I'ATIl wimmmmmm wm wmm SHORT COMMONS 173 would have been more useful. Neither promises of gifts nor threats of punishment could induce him to work. He would help to bring in the horses in the morninnr, but then considered that he had done sufficient, and would take no part in the packing, but for decency's sake would move an empty flour- sack, or lounge about with a piece of rope in his hand. In fact, he was an extra mouth to (ced, but never an extra hand to help. So we waited and watched for the time when he might be of use to us, or when we could find something which would move him. If a man is not stirred by promises of presents there is nothing to be done. It is almost impossible to find a punishment for small offences in camp. The axe-men generally kept about fifty >-ards ahead of the rest of the party, so as to allow them a little time to look for firm ground. As a rule I led the foremost horse, a skewbald named John. It was troublesome work, as the old brute was constantly jumi)ing over fallen trees, and closely missing me in alighting. lie also had a habit of planting his legs firmly in the mud and refusing to budge, which was very thing. Hehind John came four horses, followed by Round ; then four more horses and the Doctor ; finally Pollen, who was obliged to ride on account of tlu; injury to his ankle, brought up the rear with Ramsey and the remaining animals. M f^ -v.lf 174 THI«: LAND Ol- Tin- Ml'SKIvC; D ?' :. I*- it i t'. The pace, as I have said, was very slow, and very often tlie whole line would be brought to a halt whilst the axe-man cleared a path. In fact, these halts were rather the rule than the exception. At first we had shouted to the men behind to stop driving the horses ; but had found that this method was altogether too noisy, and was calculated to drive game out of the countr)-. We therefore arranged a code of signals by whistling, and thus commands and pieces of information could be passed along the line. P)Ut even after this decision human nature could not be su[)pressed. and a refractory horse would call forth loud shouts and somewhat unholy abuse. The plunging of the animals amongst the rotten logs sometimes had the effect of looseninu' the pack-ropes, and repacking caused occasional delays. But I am bound to say that, although I have travelled many hundreds of miles with a pack- train, I have never seen packs stay on better than ours, and considering the ground we travelled over, the trees, thick brush, and generally wet ropes, our packers deserve a good deal of credit. The w^oods were full of many kinds of berries, some nasty, but edible, but many pronounced to be poisonous by Daukhan. Ramsey, who was always a man of an adventurous disposition, and with a keen desire for practical knowledge, made some experi- ments with these, with the result that by the time we came to our second camj)ing-ground he was if ■i:M »; * x: y slow, and Drought to a :h. In fact, a exception, lind to stop this method ited to drive re arranged s commands xl along the man nature ctory horse k^hat unholy UTiongst the )f loosenino- occasional althou<jh I lith a pack- better than v^elled over, ; ropes, our of berries, meed to be as always a vith a keen me experi- •y the time id he was SHORT COMMONS ^75 extremely ill. A sick man was a source of delicdu to the Doctor. He had a great love for the healhig art; m fact, I might say without any ill-nature that there was not nearly enough illness in the party to please him. There was no fresh meat in camp, but Daukhan said that, as there were still some hours of day- light left, he would explore the next reach of the river, and try and find a beaver-dam. He was away about two hours, and returned with a fine beaver. The animal was very fat, and in c-ood condition, so we had quite a feast, and went to bed •n high spirits. It is wonderful how a good meal restores the temper of a camp. The march the next day was as bad as before. I he valley was narrowing up, so that we were obliged to cross the rix'er waist-deep manv times • the water was very cold, and the wet rocks slippery as glass. In the afternoon Daukhan went on ahead to hunt, but killed nothing ; still we had been care- ful of the beaver, so that we managed to net a supper. '^ We were somewhat uncertain of cnir position. and so looked anxiously for some landmark which was indicated on the map. There was a small tributary coming in from the north, and dignified by the name of North Forks of the Pine River We did not know whether we had already passed It or not. This we came to on the next day, the -i 1 4 (I 176 Tllli LAND Ol' THE Ml'SKl'd !, ■1'' ■; ■ ■ I ■ '- 1 ■ i ■ 13th of September. .As it was Pollen's birthday, we celebrated the occasion by making a little cake, and cooking a few handfuls of the dried fruit. No one can have any idea of the pleasure this gave us. To begin with, it was some time in preparing. We took oood care to make it last a long lime in eating, and afterwards we gravely discussed it over our pipes. Daukhan had again made an unsuccess- ful hunt, and we decided that the moment our food gave out we would kill one of the horses. This had been talked of for some days ; in fact, the unsusi^ecting animal had already been fixed upon in the person of a horse named Duke, a small beast, and the most obstinate in the pack-train. Some of the party had proposed to kill him at an earlier date, but we thought that it would be time enough when necessity drove us to it. At break- fast the next day we ate the !ast of the bacon, one slice being served out to each man, with a small piece of bread. The country was similar to that through which we had been travelling for the last three or four days ; but we noticed that the river was becoming much smaller. At lunch-time we halted, and made a camp, where we lay all night, havine sent out Daukhan to hunt beaver whilst Allah and John went up in the opposite direction. Towards dark John came back in triumph with a grouse, and Daukhan with a young beaver, so that we had a light supper. ■i* SHORT COMMON'S 177 I All this time Pollen had been obliged to ride, as he was still very lame. Riding throucrh such dense bush was most unpleasant, as one's face gets torn with brambles, and it is almost impossible to duck quickly enough to avoid the branches. But al- though he was unable to march he still continued to pack the horses. STUNE WAK-CI.UHS ! m n M r ii ' CHAPTER IX HUNGER AND COLD On the morning of the 1 5th we came to a more ojK'n country. Here and there upon the trees 've found the blazings of Mr. Dawson's party. There was, however, no trail. The map of the district marks a beautiful trail crossing this country ; but when one remembers that it is fourteen years since any one had been through it, it seems wonderful that any mark of their passing remains. We marched pretty well up till midday, when we lunched. A "Touse had been killed durinor the morning, and with this and the feet, tail, and entrails of the beaver we managed to get something to eat. During the afternoon two of our horses became frightened whilst walking on a steep bank, and rolled over into the river, wetting some of the bedding and giving us much trouble, as we had to cut the pack-rope and haul them out. As the blankets were very wet we decided to camp early. There was little or nothing to eat, so we made up our minds to kill the doomed horse. The un- 178 Hr\(;i:F^ and cold 179 fortunate Duke was led out and tied up to a tree. Then we gathered round, each trying to shirk the unpleasant duty of shooting an animal which, with ail his fauhs, we had grown to look upon as a iriend. The whole business had the dismal air of an execution, and the fact that the first shot did not kill the poor brute did not make it any pleasanter. Somehow one does not associate a horse with butcher's meat, and it seems a sort of treachery to kill so faithful a servant for food. Once dead, however, it did not take long to skin and cut him up, and it was with a sigh of relief that we saw his identity lost in joints and ribs. That night we made broth, as we thought the meat would be tough, and on the following n^orning we set to work to dry the meat. We" erected a stage, and, cutting the llesh into thin slices, hung it over a slow fire. A light snow was falling, so we spent the day under the shelter of the tent fiy. speculating upon the distance to the Summit Lake, and coming to the conclusion that we should, in all probability, arrive there on the morrow. We ate a considerable quantity of horse, finding the liver, heart, and kidneys very good indeed ; in fact, far beyond our expectations. The process of drying is a long one, and we were greatly handicapped by the absence of sunshine, so that it was only half- finished when we moved off on the morning of the 1 6th. ) ': { ■ ■ti i8o I III' l.AM) ul I III'. MlSKI'd J ' I . ; '111 '' I. K f! 1 'I Tin- valley luul l)y this time become: very narrow, and lay between walls of almost perpendicular rock. IIi<Th above; us was the deep forest, similar to that through which we had marched for so long. I he e.xtraordinary denseness of these sub-Arctic forests '•riii: vAi.i.i.v HAD liuoMi-: \i;uy nakkow makes them appear abnost impenetrable. In the river bottom where we were, willows, alder, and dogwood covered the ground, making it almost impossible for us to force a passage. The Pine River had shrunken to a deep, narrow creek, often blocked with fallen timber, whilst much of the in\(;i:k and coi.d i8i country was suhmcrired by ilu- h.ickwatcrs caused by old hcavcr-dams. Now at last Allah was of use- to us. The canon vas bocomino; very narrow, and the sides, as I have said, were rocky and precipitous. It seemed almost as if wc wen- in a en/ dc sac. Allah, however, knew better, and directed us towards the eastern wall of the canon. The cliff rose before us hi<rh and ru-ged. and it seemed unpossible for the horses to a'^cend. Here and there were ledges of rock, and Allah pointed out the aict that these joined, so that a sort of zigza- l^ath led to the summit He said that when he went to iM Leod he climbed the cliff in this place, and that he thought it quite possible to take the horses up. In fact, he asserted that Mr. Dawson's party must have descended into the valley here. We had noticed upon their map that they marked a cliff, and so came to the conclusion that we had found the right place. For the next hour the horses struggled and panted on the face of the rock. We forced them to ascend a little dis- tance, allowed them to halt for breath, and then urged them on again. Man>' of them fell more than once, and two or three packs had to be taken off and carried up by hand to relieve the less skilful horses, but at last, wea y and exhausted, we reached the summit without serious accident. We now thought that we had said a last farewell to the Pine River, and were consequently much ii ) ,: \ I 82 THI-: LAND ()!• Till-: .MlSKl-C. I ']i disappointed when we came across it again at luncii-time. I should imaLrine that there must be a waterfall in the bend of" the river which we had cut off, as certainly the little plateau we were on was several hundred feet higher than the caiion we had just left. The country around us was more open, rising into sharp rocky ridges on each side, whilst the valley was full of grassy meadows alter- nating with clumps of dog- wood and willow. We had dried h o r s e- m e a t for luncheon, and very disgust- ing it was. I can't recom- mend horse as a diet. The hardness of the food hurt the teeth and inflamed the gums, causing us some pain. We found that we could not eat much at a time, but always marched with small morsels in our pockets, which we chewed whenever we felt hungry. It is remark- able that this meat, when dried, h.is very litlle sustaining power. We would eat as much as we could manage, and yet become faint from want of food in a couple of hours. Soon after lunch John declared that he could see water through the trees, so we marched on as quickly as possible, hoping to come to the lake GOOU-HYt; TO TIIK I'lNK i?* igain at must be we had were on liion we IS more ch side, 's alter- of dOiT- /Ve liad at for lisgust- recom- The mrt the ; gums, 1. We lot eat always norsels ch we ::mark- • htLle as we ant of could on as i lake hlx(;i-:r and cold 183 before evening. A little later we left the open country and again entered the dense brush, and going forward a little way came to a large beaver- dam, which was the water John had seen. Here at last we said good-bye to the Pine River. For the next half-mile the willows were very dense, and we moved but slowly. Suddenly coming over a little rise we found ourselves on the shore of the lake. The bush was thick, and the work of chopping very heavy, so that the night nad alrcuady fallen when we pitched our tents at the far end. It was a wild spot. Sombre cliffs rose abruptly from the water on the northern shore. On our side lay the dense forest, matted and ilecaying, and fraught with all the melancholy of the North. The sky was dull, and cast a sombre hue over the lake. No scene could have been more cheerless. The divide we had crossed was the low ridge that lies between the watershed of the Pine and Parsnip rivers, both of which ultimately flow into the Peace. Perhaps a few words on the geography of this district may not be out of place here. To begin with, the Rocky Mountains, which form the back- bone of the North American continent, run north and south. The Pine River, as may be remem- bered, is a tributary of the Peace River, which lies upon the eastern slope. This wide stream runs into the Great Slave Lake, which empties into the MTvenzie, and so into the Arctic Ocean. We had ,M' t- S «.J t .. ! m-' It 4 " 1 84 THH LAND OF THIC MUSKI<:(; therefore been upon what is called the Arctic slope since we came to the Athabaska Landing. The Summit Lake, however, empties towards the west, where its waters become a part of the Missenchinea, which ir. turn is a tributary of the Parsnip River. Now this stream lies upon the western side of the Rocky Mountains, and in the ordinary course of nature should fall into the Pacific Ocean. But this is not the case. The river flows to the north, getting ever nearer the mountains, till it is joined by the Findlay River, which runs towards the south. Turn'ug sharply to the wesi, it flows in a deep gorge right through the heart of the range, and emerges upon the western slope urder the name of Peace River, which, as I have said, empties into the Arctic. I do not suppose that there is another case in the world of a river returning and flowing through the mountains from which it has risen. As far as I could learn, there is no pass or valley to account for this, but simply a deep caiion. It would be au interesting point for geologists to look into, as it seems hardly likely that a river would deliberately fight its way through so enormous a wall of rock. There are many glaciers still extant in the Northern Rockies, and these would doubtless have done much to excavate any chasm or crack formed by the cooling of the rock. Also the fact that the Peace carries a huoe burden of ice in the spring would help lo deepen '.,' HUXGKR AND COLD l8> the canon when once the river had found a bed. Still, the fact remains, and is sufficiently remarkable. Mr. Warburton Pike, in his excellent book, The Barren Grounds of N'orthern Canada, has given a full description of this place. And certainly he had very good cause to remember it, for it was there that he suffered a period of starvation, which, from the account he gives, must have nearly cost him his life. I think that what I have stated will be under- stood upon reference to the map which is given. From what the Siccanee Indians had told us, we imagined that our difficulties were now over, and we might soon expect to find the pitching-trail of which they spoke. We calculated that it would take us about half a day to reach the point where the stream from the lake, called the Attunatche, joined the Missenchinea. After this we mtended to follow the Missenchinea down to the confluence of the Parsnip, which we imagined would take us about four days ; and finally, we allowed one day in wb.jcii to march from the Parsnip to Fort IVFLeod. This i:'':e a total of five days and a half. A! hb. .,h we knew that ve should travel in some discomton is regards food, we were much cheered by the apparent proximity of civilisa<-ion, uid a reinforced commissariat. Our meals had become very simple. Upon the shores of the Summit Lake we turned our attention to horse-ribs. The rruilt was extremely comical. I do not think that f 1',.^ m r I' i II 1 3 1 86 THI-: LAND OI' THI-: MUSKI-C U ': K 'ii ' ' |l '; \ ■, ' M U I ever saw a fuimier sight than we presented sitting round the camp-fire, each gnawing a huge rib, and holding the (Mids in our hands. The regulation three cups of tea were always allowed to each man, after which the meal was at an end. Then we would smoke our pipes by the light of the fire, and enjoy the most pleasant hour of the day in camp. Tobacco is a great comfort after a hard day's work in the open air, '] ""-/er superfluous a luxury in civilisation ; and ti: are few pleasures in life which come up to an after-dinner smoke in the woods. Before you the great logs hiss and crackle cheerfully, casting a ruddy glow upon the trees. A curtain of darkness shuts off the forest behind you ; around you are men with the same tastes and interests as yourself. Every day brings much that is new and of interest, and the little incidents and jok js of the hour assume an importance hitherto unknown. The talk veers round from tales of sport — hunting lies they are called in the West — to reminiscences of the old country, and again back to the expectations of the morrow ; and so, as the night draws on, one by one you retire to your blankets and sleep the healthy sleep that is bred of an outdoor life. It is a quaint existence, which has many humorous sides to set off the periods of discomfort, I might almost say misery, which are certain to come to all those who attempt an expedi- tion in the North-West. The pipe following in . i'..M...JI>J. T^»fi«H^^5SS" Hrx(;i-:R and cold 187 the evening, after the only peaceful meal of the day, gathers round it associations of comfort, repletion, and rest that stood us in good stead when our times were hard ; and often when the cravings of an empty belly were making inroads on our spirits, and weak- ness was generating depression, tobacco, with its soothing memories, would drive the haunting spirit for a season away. In the hard schooling of ad- versity one learnt the truth of the poet's words — 'Thou who, when cares attack, Jiidd'st them avaunt 1 and black Care at the horseman's back Perching, unseatest ! ' The morning of the i8th broke cold and cheer- less, and before we had begun breakfast the snow- was falling fast. Packing the horses in a snowstorm is most unpleasant. The ropes, hard and ice-covered, hurt the hands, and being almost too stiff to mould over the packs, the labour is greatly increased ; and what was ordinarily a two and a half hours' job lengthened itself by a painful hour. We had gone but a few rods, when Bishon, an animal of very strong character, bucked his pack off, and strolled away into the timber. No sooner had we brought him to reason, than one by one the horses com- menced to roll and ease themselves of their burdens. There had been very little food for some days, and the poor brutes were in a miserable condition. The cold was intense, and we ."-truggled in the thick r ' I h ■ • 1 ■ r mr' fi a 1 88 lui': I.AM) ()!• riii: .\irsKi;(. i i I ^, i*. M f'i &*■ . 1 !' V i -I I ■! -^4. underbrush in melancholy mood. By lunch-time we came to the Missenchineu River, a shallow rapid stream, not more than one hundred feet across. The water was icy cold, and the rocks slip^jery to our moccasined feet, hut we manaLfed to reach the farther shore without wetting our knees. We now proceeded to follow the river down, marching upon the left-hand side. I had imagined that the trail ran by the right bank, but Daukhan would not listen to any word of change. The underbrush gave us the usual amount of chopping, so that we had not made more than a mile and a half by camping-time. The ground was swampy and low ; but we found that the valley was too broad to allow us to reach the higher lands, and, indeed, what we could see of them was not enticing. We accordingly drew towards the river, everywhere deep pools and beaver-dams blockinLr our wav, whilst the fjround was covered with water to the depth of about six inches, and in places had a thin crust of ice. Several times we used the dams themselves as bridges, and the extraordinary way in »»hich these frail structures bore the weight of the horses testi- fied to the skill of the builders. At last we found a small dry [jatch, and there camjied for the night. September \c)//i. — The bush seemed almost im- penetrable, and the long line wound slowly through the swamps under a cold and cheerless sky. The meagre diet was telling upon us all, so that the icy tmm wv^a^ lir\(ii:K AM) COLD 189 water chilled us U) the bone, and our sopping moccasins seemed like lumps of lead. There was ;ii 'i »■ / i ■:l The ' K\ i;Hv\Mii;ki-; iii;i;i' I'om.^ and i;i.a\i.u dams but one thino' to cheer us — the idea of the uood trail ahead. \\\.' were forced to cross the river fri .%; ' P I ' i ( i •^*:1 > ^ I 190 Till': LAM) ()!• nil' MlSKI'd twenty or thirty times in tiie day. Tiie backwaters were frozen solid, and even in the centre of the stream great lumps of ic(^ hung to the driftwood. By lunch-time I had lost all feeling in my feet, and tottered down to the fire in a helpless fashion. All the afternoon, still crossing the stream, and often wading waist-deep, we struggled forward. Evening found us on the right bank of the river, crawling at snail's pace in a muskeg, the horses stumbling amongst the roots of the trees, and lurching- on to their knees in the swampy pools. The old skew- bald who led the train seemed to think that he had had enough of marching, and often he would plant his feet deep into the mud and refuse to budge. Towards dark, after much shouting, swearing, and chopping, we emerged into an open space. It had seemed from a distance like a meadow of firm ground ; but no sooner had we set foot upon it than we discovered that it was simply a smooth muskeg. The bush was for the most part under water. It was getting dark, so that to go on was misery, and here at least there was in places a little feed for the horses ; so we decided to camp in the open. The horses wallowed in the wet moss, sink- ing in up to their knees at every step, and the water gurgled round our ankles and beneath our moccasins. How^ever, we unpacked, and, having made a fire, set to L ^on the horsedesh supper. After the meal we set up the tent fly, covering the floor with pine hi\(;i:r .and coi.d ten 191 branches in a vain attempt to keep dry. There was much discussion as to our position. We found upon Mr. Dawson's map a small river mark, called Fall Creek. During the morninj^- we had remarked a waterfall in a tributary of the Missenchinea coniinn in from the south. From this we conjectured that we had already marched a considerable distance. A little below our camp the river showed deep and 'ULK CAMl' WAS MI.'-IOKAIJI.V WIIT Still, and seemed altogether far larger than when we first joined it. Allah, however, said that we had still a longer way to go. He pointed out a moun- tain at a great distance, and said that the ' hard ground ' began there. Our camp was miserably wet and uncomfortable, and there Avas every appear- ance of snow. September 20th. — Everything we possessed was dripping after lying all night in the muskeg. The 'J (.! \V n 192 I III' I. AM) ()!• nil': MISKIIC. II' m 1 K I i- morning was as usual cold, and the surface of die nioss was crisp with frost, so that packing was an actual aL^'ony. The whole party looked rather miserable ; but we cheered one another with a formula which had grown to mean much to us ; 'it can't be far to M' Leod.' I still retained my post as leader of the train after the axe-men, and, though the work was hard, I was extremely glad of it, for this kind of life does not improve the temper, and MAKCIIING IN Ml'M<KG.S the moral trials of pack-train driving are apt to exhaust one's fund of forbearance. The horses were constantly falling, and even the bridges of branches and bush which the axe-men made over the worst places did not seem to help them much. We had moved off at about eight o'clock, and it was not till one that we halted for lunch. In looking back we found that we had made about half a mile as the crow fiies. A mile in ten hours would be considered a slow rate in IIUNOI'k AM) COLD •93 J ; of the was an rather with a us : 'It my post , thou'^h )f it, for per, and apt to horses bridges m made ip them |o'cloci<, lunch. made piile in rate in most places, but we knew that we had made the best time possible. Lunch was a lu<^ubrious meal : the food nasty and scant, and no sooner had wc bolted what we could, than we had to be I up and packing again. Till then we had always roasted our meat. We now discovered that we could put it to a double use by boiling it. In this way wc added a thin soup to our meat diet. This we prized as a great delicacy, being scru[)ulously careful that each should get his exact portion, neither more nor less. During the afternoon we were again much troubled by devil's clubs, so that the blood oozed out of our knees and shins, causing us much pain. Towards e^'cning, to our great disappoint- ment, we passed Fall Creek, and then we realised that wc had not travelled so far as wc had imagined. Soon after thi:-., word was passed to camp at the first place where we found food for the horses, and before long we came to a halt. Pollen seemed very ill. He had been obliged to ride on account of his ankle ; and it appeared that Charley, his horse, had slipped among the roots and fallen, crushing his foot against a rock. The Doctor made a rapid examination, and said that he believed that one of the bones of the foot was broken, but that he would not be able to make certain until the followinqf morning, by which time he seemed to think the inflammation would have gone down. This was awful. We had a small flask of spirits in the camp ; N ^ i!f :<>! ^ > I if, t1 f 1 i 1 i. 194 III I'. LAND or II II'. MISKI'-.C; but, besides this, had [)racticaily nothinjj^ with which to revive: an invahd. It seemed a farce to ask a man who was ahnost faintin<^^ with pain to share the disi^ustin_L,r frarjments of l)oiled horse which were beini;- prepared for supper, so we sat and stared into the fire in silence. The Doctor was a man with ureat confidence in his own skill ; and as usual shouted when he was required to show his knowledge of the healing art. And so now, whilst we all sat in silence, brooding over our misfortunes, he, with his mouth full of meat, yelled out long tales of his student-days, and histories of knife-work amongst the entrails of what he called 'cadavers.' Listening to these cheering reminiscences, we rolled ourselves in our blankets and lay around the fire, feeling too helpless even to put up the tent. In the morning Pollen's foot was again examined, and it was found that no bone was broken, but that it was badly inllamed and bruised. We proposed to remain in camp to allow him to rest, as he seemed much exhausted by a sleepless night and the pain he had suffered ; but he would not hear of it, saying that it would be many days before he was well again, and that the great thing was to push forward to the fort, where we could spend some days in peace. The country w^as as bad as ever, always swampy and choked with fallen trees and underbrush. Occasionally we came across Mr. Dawson's blaz- h mmmmm m nrxc,i:k wd coi.t) 195 th which to ;isk a iharc the ich were d stared s a man and as to show so now, Dver our of meat, ays, and itrails of to these js in our lin^ too mornint^ ^as found as badly emain in ed much m he had ying that 2II a<jfain, ird to the leace. ; swampy derbrush. )n's blaz- ni.t,^s. hut iliis was no cheering sight to us, for it only pr.)ved, what we had already feared-namely. that all traces of their trail had long since disappeared, and that the road which was to lead us quickly out of the country no longer existed. The hard work, the wet, and the short commons were telling upon' lis all. and very weary and exhausted we "looked when we stopped for luncheon. Suddenly we made a discovery. We had lighted our hre close to a big I)ine-tree marked with one of Mr. Dawson's blaze.^ Chancing to examine the tree more closely, we discovered a second blaze, with these words painted upon it, 'Survey, 21st July 1879. G. INI, D.'' It seemed an extraordinary thing that we should have chanced to rest upon the site of this camp, but we did not wait to talk of coincidences. The writing might mean much to us. We knew that Mr. Dawson had left Fort AFLcod on the i jih July, but had spent a whole day crossing the Parsnip. The cjuestion was, Had he made this writing in the morning or the evening ? In march- ing through a country a man uses two camps per day ; he gets up in one and goes to bed in another —on the same day. Now it might chance that the blaze had been made in the morning— that is to say, ' It seems won.lorful that written words shouUI remain lemhle after so Ions: exposure to the weather, hut the explanation is sin.pie. A hl.z i made ,n a pme-tree. and the writing, is painted upon the fresh-cut wood '• hen the re>n.>us sap .lowin, from the tree gla.es over the paint an re^ It almost impenshahle. «>.uucrs "I i' ' ;(,: i I ^'' ... ■1 i; if'i ' ■■v,i:'';tf J iM It I 196 I'm". i-.WD 01 mi". MrsKi'.c. i'.fUT the ihinl cl;i\'s march iVoin the fori : or a>;aiii, it inii;ht ha\-c hccr. niatlc in the cvcniii";- of thi' same day after the fourlh marcli. We lotiked at it from ever)' point of vii'W, 'nit, of eonrse, etniUl come to no conchision. A wliole da.v of miser\' hunj;' in the balance. We were h\' this time in a sorry condition. I was forced through sheer exhaustion .rti»v'* V'T ■'If ni;.\n i;r.\i- to L;i\e u[) m\- place iii ihi" fore part of dn- ti-ain, and took ni)- turn at ch-i\ ins; the |)ack-horses in the better trodden path at the rear. 'Idle evi-r-reail_\- Roinul — the hardest worker auu)ns;st the wiiitt-s — was compelled to ride. Ramsey walked hea\ily, leaniui; upon a stick, and even the Doctor's \-oice was hushed with fatigue. 1 )aukhan"s spirits were at their lowest, and both he and John were hardly Mi in \(ii.-R .\\i) coi.i) '97 <it lor the labour of rli„p,,[no- the trail. I-^m- the iT.st two clays of the liorse period, Allah, the Heaver, had been practically starving. He had declared that he could not eat horse/ savino- that once he made himself very ill upon this niearai an Indian feast after a Ion- period of fa.nine. Before Io.lL>;. however, he fell upon it. greedily pushino- for the fattest morsels with unseemly haste. Our stock oi me::t was becomino- alarminoly low. and as our meals became, more aiul .nore meaorc-. our minds seemed to oet beyond control and to run continually on lood. Cookery became the one topic of con- versation. !t .ippeared tb.at no oiu- could speak without some hint of the dinner-table. komul the '•mip-lu-e in the evc-nin-s w(« would discuss our favourite di hes in a way which was hardlv human, and certainly was far from decent. One would hanker after steak, another for potatoes; for my part I had but one vision of happiness in this world raspberry jam an<i bread-and-buiter. I would '■ -i.U' to be in a civilised country a-ain. .so that 1 niioht -•() In stealth and purchase^ pots of preserves, and then, lockin- myself n my room, attack them with ;. spoon. I cannot imagine why this particI1^M• mania sei/ovl me; I luve at times had -limmerfnos above jam, as I believe and trust the' others had al)()ve stiMk and potatoes; but the dis-ustin- fact remains. Towards exening we < ntered a oreat muskco-. tf I I ilt I .^W ;, ■^ m^^mi P, .\\ ■i ) f f; f^ ' )^ I :|: 198 THE LAND OF TIIF. MUSKFX, i' ,' We had already passed the point where Allah had said the ' hard i^^round ' commenced ; but as yet we saw no sign of it. Darkness came on, and we camped in the swamp between the trees, rolling ourselves in our blankets on the wet ground, and spreading the tent over us as we lay, for there w^as every appearance of snow, and a light rain was already falling. September 22nd. — We awoke feeling weak and ill. The valley appeared to be broadening out, and the niuskeg seemed to cover all the lower ground so we were forced to return to- wards the mountains, almost retracing our steps. John, the half- breed, complained much oi pains in his body, ana seemed to be suffering from the effects of the damp. Daukhan was more haofgard and worn than we. We had not gone far when the faithful Pinto became hopelessly bogged. The poor old horse struggled and jjlunged, but every movement sent him deeper into the mud, until at la^'t he lost heart, and neidier kindness nor brutality would move him. We were forced to cut i)ranches and place them under him, but the com- bined efforts of the whole party did not succeed in extricating him until he had been a prisoner for ' UAUK.NKSS CAMK O.N \ lah had yet we and we rolling ind, and lere was ain was eak and out, and seemed he low^er we were :turn to- ountains, :ing our the half- 1 plained d to be 3aukhan had not Dpelessly plunged, the mud, ness nor d to cut ;he com- icceed in oner for ^ huxgi:r and cold 199 close upon two hours. By the time we halted for lunch every one was worn-out. Many of us walked leaning upon two sticks, utterly exhausted. The repacking of the horses seemed almost impossible, and the lighbi;^st duty a superhuman effort. For some distance the muskeg continued ; dark pines overhead shut out the licjht of the leaden sun ; 'THK HARD GUOUM) tangled branches caught our feet ; deep slushy mud impeded our weary steps. Suddenly from the front of the train there came a cry of ' The hard ground ! the hard ground ! ' and in a few moments we emerged from the thick swampy forest in which we had been travelling for so man)- days, into open country and a firm soil. The ground sloped gently away from us in a rolling plain, »( r ' ' 200 Tni<: LAND ()!• THr^ MUSKF-Ci tj. ■■ '!•. i I dotted here and there with chimps of pine-trees. Light healthy breezes blew across the open space, cheerinu- and invis^oratincr. But above all — there, on our rioht — lay a broad Indian trail skirtini^ the hillocks and winding- through the trees. Never have I seen such a change. A minute before we had been poor wrecks hobbling wearily along, supporting ourselves with sticks. Now in a moment the crutches were cast aside, and with a shout of joy we rushed forward, actually dancing with pleasure. The horses were driven towards the trail, and we quickened our pace. At first we seemed ashamed of our folly, but soon throwing aside all disguise we commenced to run, and with knocking knees and panting breath pounded down the trail like children. I think it was in the minds of all that we might reach the Parsnij) River that night, but no one liked lo say so. The thing seemed too good to be true. We were in no condition for running, and now- one, now another, would lag behind, when it became the duty of the whole expedition to shout and encourau'e them. About th(; middle of the after- noon it commenced to rain, ;ind so continued until dark. Several times we were obliged to halt to fix the packs, and it was during one of these halts that we held a council. According to Mr. Dawson's map the trail we were on led to the forks of the Missenchinea and ine-trccs. :n space, 1 — there, rting the L minute ;■ wer'irily lOw in a 1 with a clancino- towards first we Sirowino- k\ witli d down 2 minds 'cr that 1 thino- id now became Lit and I after- d until t to fix ts that uii we • .'a and HUNGIiK AND COLD the Parsnip. Now Allah declared th, 20I It it was quite unnecessary to make so long a detour, and that he knew of a trail which would take us straight to the fort. He said that he was perfectly certahi that he could find the. way, and that by following his ad^•ice we could save a whole day. Daukhan joined Allah in this, saying that he also had heard of this trail, and that if it existed at all he could without doubt find it. It must be remembered that all this time we had absolutelydcpended upon Daukhan for our guidance. Without him we could not possibly have crossed the moLuitains, for a compass is no guide in so difficult a district-as one might spend a whole year in exploring the eastern slope without finding a pass suitable for horses. Daukhan himself had never crossed by the Pine l^iss before, but he had all the information possible from his friends at Dunvcgan. In an Indian camp there are only a kw topics of conversation, so that they spend much of their time in describing places they have visited, entering minutely into' the details oV the landmarks, and these tilings mean more to an Indian than to a white man. So now. after ha\ in- witnessed with astonishment the way in which he led us through an unknown country, we did not doubt but that he must be right in this instance, even though he was telling us to leave our firm trail and again take to the woods. The ground was still 4 ii'fl 1 1 fi •1 1 I ''1 'J 1 t I i[- , ' •\ V I t ■ i! I ?!■ ..■ •i I'iJf T ■m I 't ,)■ \ V )'■ .h 1^ } 202 Tin-: LAND OF Till-: .Ml'SKF.r. fairly open, so that wc continued to run even after leaving the trail ; but our pace was not rapid, and, weak and exhausted, wc stumbled on. Darkness was coming on fast, and still we saw nothing of our short cut. We stopped the horses and sent 1 )aukhan, Allah, and John out as scouts, whilst we remained behind to mind the animals. In this place we found some frost-bitten blueberries, which we ate ravenously. They were our first taste of vege- tables for many days, and though frozen to a dry pulp, they seemed wonderfully good. Soon John and Daukhan returned, saying that they could find neither a trail nor any water. Shortness of water was a hardship we had never looked for in that swampy country. We were already a long way from the IMissenchinea, and we came to the con- clusion that we would rather make a ' dry ' camp than retrace one step of our toilsome journey. It seemed better to continue our march towards the imaginary trail, and chance, if possible, upon some creek, or even upon the Parsnip, By this time it was quite dark, so that we had the utmost difticulty in driving the horses through the bush. A pack-train is hard enough to manage by day, but by night, through a trackless waste, it is wellnigh impossible. John had gone ahead again, and before long w^e came upon him sitting by a small fire. He shouted to us that we had better camp, and proceeded to undo one of the packs, from which we concluded .' f I i HUNGF.R AND COLD 'cn after pid, and, darkness ig of our )aukhan, emained ilace wc we ate 3f vcg-c- to a dry 311 John uld find of water in that ng way he con- ■ ' camp ley. It rds the n some e it was culty in ck-train y nioht, ossible. 3 no- ^ve shouted :ded to icluded 203 , that all was right. On being asked if lie had found any water he was very mysterious, as was his way, but soon confessed that he had found nothin<r. I thnik we should have camped had it not been for Daukhan, who declared that he would push on, even if he went by himself. Accordingly, wc moved on in the darkness, and luckily we had not far to go. for we soon found a muskeg. The rain was still falling fast, and our hands were so numb that wc could hardly undo the ropes. The supper was prepared, but by this time the party were in too low a state to care much for their food. Nevertheless, the wolfish rush which was always made for the pan in which the portions were laid out was one of the most disgusting features of this wretched time. Drenching w^et, and faint with weakness, we huddled into the tent and tried to rest. Scptcmbo' 23?'^/.— Torrents of rain were foiling when we awoke, so we decided to remain in camp for a short time on the chance of a change in the weather. The tattered map was again produced, and again and again we scanned its familiar face, in the attempt to fmd out liow far we might be fi jni the Parsnip. W^e had that map by heart, and knew every line and every curve ujion it ; yet we always crowded round it as though we imagined that the I)osition of the fort might have changed in the nio-ht. I \ (• Presently the rain lightened, but a heavy fog hid im '1 I 204 THI- LAND OF TU\l MUSKIiG • I I r r ft i I- V f t M' the landscape. Daukhan had now altered liis Hne of march, and was leading towards the forks of the Missenchinea and the Parsnip, as though he had already seen the folly of his plan. The country was open, but the ground was strewn with small pine-trees blackened by a forest fire. These hindered the horses considerably, and our march was slow. Towards midday the fog lifted, and dis- closed the Parsnip about a mile to our left. We raised a cheer and hurried down the valley at our best pace. After crossing a small muskeg, we cut our way through a line of willows and stood upon the river-bank. The Parsnip was not so big a stream as I had supposed — not more than five hundred feet broad. It appeared to be shallow, but rapid. The Siccanees had told us that we should be oblio;ed to swim the horses, as the river was too deep to ford. They said that we should find a canoe at the end of the trail, in which we might ferry our goods ; but we had left the trail and so missed the canoe. Daukhan, however, pointed out that the river was very low, and said that he believed that it could be forded. He made the attempt, and proved that he was right. Accordingly we unpacked a few of the horses, and riding these, drove the pack-train across, then, returning, transported the remainder of our goods, and finally crossed ourselves. The stream was strong, but did not rise above the horses' girths, so that we re- \ '' Itr HUNGI'k AM) COLD 205 biV a •y manu=d dry. Ridin.- in rapid water is always very unpleasant, for should a horse make a mistake the result to the rider is likely to he serious. Arrived upon the western bank, we made camp. Allah now told us that he knew of another trail to the fort But our faith in him had left us, and we smiled scornfully when we saw him leave camp to search for It. In less than an hour he returned, and re- ported that he had found it. He said it passed quite close to our camp, but that at first it was poor and overgrown. Farther on he believed that it improved, and that by followinq; it we could without doubt arrive at AM.cod on the following- evening. T^ort M^Leod hcs at the northern extremity of M'Lcod's Lake at the point where the Pack River leaves the ake. Parther down, the Pack broadens out into a big pool known as Trout Lake. Below this aoain the nver flows into the Parsnip. We calculated that we should be able to reach Trout Lake by lunch-time on the following day, and that we could ccu^.ly make the fort from there in the afternoon. All this tmie Allah solemnly declared that he knew for a fact that the trail ran the whole distance to INLLeod. We had practically finished our supr.ly of food. Nothing remained of the unfortunate Uuke but a few bones and some lumps of oristle bonie one suggested that we should kill thl do-. Boxer. I think that we had often looked at hin^ \f tn I ^ ;! f^ 'UJ- W 'i •i Pi .. L ' I 206 I III-: LAND OI< Till- MUSKI'G ■• f \ I' ' . ♦ > Ij. M S' 1^ „• tVoin the point of view of the butcher ; in fact, 1 have a vivid recollection of hearing the probable colour of his meat discussed. Ikit now that it came to the point we disliked the idea. 'I'o begin with, the poor brute was very mani^y ; and attain, it seemed disoustinti: to kill him when we were so sure of reaching the fort on the morrow. So we boiled our bones and gristle, and drank the thin greasy water which was the result, at the same time being ex- tremely careful to keep our stock for another meal. At the first glimmerings of light we were up and about, but our condition was wretched in the extreme. John and Round were too weak to pack at all, and the Doctor, Ramsey, and I could do no more than get the packs made up. So the getting them on the horses was left to Daukhan and Pollen, who, though very lame, was much the stronoest of us all, as he had been ridino; throuuh all the hard time. But, short-handed as we were, the packing was got through as quickly as possible, and we started with high hopes and the vision of supper at the fort before our eyes — supper with bread and bacon and coffee! The Indians said that we should find all these. The idea of Fort M'^Leod loomed up before us great and gorgeous — a haven of rest and a palace of delight. Meanwhile our work was cut out for us. The hill was steep, and the trail, as the Beaver had said, bad. Before long, however, we reached the HUNr.I.:R AM) COLD ct, I have ble colour mc to tlic with, the t secinccl ) sure of loilcd our isy water DeitiL,^ ex- ler meal, e up and in the ; to pack :ould do So the Daukhan nuch the through we were, l^ossible, /ision of 3er with ins said of Fort orgeous s. The ver had :hed the 207 upland and moved faster. We could not run as we had done before, for we uere far too weak, but still we made our best pace. At twelve o'clock we caucrht sight of 'I-rout Lake gleaming below us. and, going forward to the shore, rested the horses. 1-or some time we hunted in vain amongst the kitchen utensils for something lor luncheon.'and at last produced two or three scraps of fat about as big as a dollar; these we fried and solemnly divided amongst us. Without tea and tobacco I don't know how we should have pulled through. We had not unpacked the horses, as was our usual custom, for we felt doubtful if we should have the strength left to repack them if we did so. And so. after a short halt, we marched on again, with the lake on our right hand. The country" was very bad, but we still hoped to reach Allah's ' excellent trail.' In this we were, as usual, doomed to disappointment. The way became worse and worse, until we came to the borders of a burnt track ; then we gave up all hope of reaching the fort, and crawled forward over the charred logs in abject misery. Hour after hour the train moved forward at a funereal gait ; it seemed as if we should never reach our destination. Ahead of us we saw mile after mile of blackened trees standing gaunt and bare ; thick masses of pea- vine and wild raspberry hid the earth under our feet. At last we reached the thick standing woods. But even then our case was not i \: It' i .' V h 'H ,)■ l\H\ I i r 208 llll' I.AXI) OI- IIII' MlSKI'Ci iini)rovccl ; fiillcn timber impeded our passage, so tliat ol'teii we were oblii^^ed to retrace our steps to circumvent some insurmountable barricade. I'^ach log seemed like a mountain ; we could hardly lift our tired legs ; our arms hung heavy and useless from much chopping. Several times we came close to the Pack River, running deep and still between the trees. Darkness came on, and still we moved forward. Daukhan had left us the last time we neared the river, saying he would try and find the trail, and John now led the train. The horses had been saddled since early morning, and the packs were loosening and recjuired attention. With the coming of night a madness seemed to seize the tired animals, and we wasted the last remnant of our strength in driving then. ; the strain became almost too great, and it seemed that we must give up in despair. Presently a pack came off, and we left it lying. But at last our endurance gave out, and we un- saddled the horses in a little open space. Some one made a fire, round which we sat in silence. Daukhan had not returned, so we fired off a rifle to let him know our whereabouts. Soon he came in, saying that he had already given up, and had made a fire for himself, intending to remain where he was, but, finding us so close at hand, he had come up the hill to be with us. We unrolled our beds, and then returned to the fire to see if there was anything I nr\(;i.;R and coi.i; assagc, so r steps to Ic. Kach hardly lift id useless amc close 1 between ^e moved time we I find the orses had he packs With the ^eize the mnant of became uist give ', and we ^1 we II n- ome one -)aukhan let him 1, saying le a fire vas, but, • the hill nd then nything 209 |'> ^--at. Again and again we searched the cook- box, but found absolutely nothing. Then we sat down agam. Some one sup-oested fI^n^ ,.< 1 j 1 ,. , .^,>^LsiLci mat \\v. sliould trv the n,ecl,cal stores The Doctor brouglu then, ou, a,ul we hunted <hl,,en.l;. ; in che botton, of , Mask we found a couple of spoonfuls of |an,aica ^dn.er' wli.ch we tnixed with stron^ tea. This sec^ned" to |- K-er us up a little, and, to son,e e.Ntent. to stay ic^ l'an«s of hunj,,, fro,,, „|,i,|, „.^ ^^,^,_.^ ^^^^^^^.J Once more we looked at the „,an,.y dog. and th™ se to work to talk over our position. We knew "'■"tic fort could not be ,ery far away-how far "■<-l.a not know. Daukhan thought it n,ight be ju.st below us on the river, but seemed too ex- haust,.d to take much interest in the conversation, Alk:-. a,d ,t was further t,p the stream. It was clear that unless we had foo.l we shotdd not have he strength to pack the horses, and exen then we dotibted whether one meal would do us an^• .oo.l 1 wo co.,rses l,ay open to us : either w.- mu.st kill one o the animals, or wo mtist leave the can,p behtnd and .set out by ot.rselves that „igl„ and fini l>e fort^ 1 h,s latter cot.rse seemed best. If we found the fort all would be well ; on the other •and, ,f we d,d not succeed in doing so. we should be compelled to spend the night without either shelter or coverings a trying thing for men in our turn and weakened condition. 'iii Jl i \- o 'Vf: I I! '8 ^ l^i- I ■■ ,11 1 . y t '■f ii ' i I I. II 2IO TlilC LAND Ol' THl' Ml'SKILC. Pollen now asked Allah if he would be willing to i'uide us. He said that he would not, as he had only one suit of clothes, and as we should be obliecd to cross the river to reach the fort these would !(et wet. He said that if he remained for the night in wet clothes he would undoubtedly be ill. Poiien told him that if he brought us to the fort he would imrredlately purchase a new suit for him, and after this he said he would come. Volunteers were now called, and the question put to all. Daukhan said he could noi ^o any farther that night ; Ramsey and the Doctor said the same ; John, Round, Pollen, and I resolved to make the attempt. It must he remembered that we had been up, and either packing or marching, since half-past three in the morning. We practical!)- had no food but a little v.'atery soup and tea since the previous day, 'ind in our condition it may he. im.igined that si.xteen hours' work h./l left us absolutelv ex- hausted. I^ik hope is a wonderful reviver, and the idea of getting in reality to the fort that night put such spirit into us that I felt as it we couKl have gone on almost for ever. So ne each wrap])ed our shoulders in a piece of blanket, and leaving the camp-fire started out into the c^arkncss. It was now about eight o'clock in thi evening. Rain had been falling during the dav, but had ceased. Allah led the wav, and we tollowed in single file. l!^ lilHi 'Ai /illing to ; he had lould be )rt these lined for jtedly be IS to the new suit Id come, "ition put ly farther he same ; iicike tlie been up, past three )d but a lous day. ed that itelv ex- ver, and at night e could wrapped iving the It was Rain ceased, nj^le file. ' 1 * 1 1 Itfe ■In 212 THI<: LAND OI« THIi MUSKIiCi <«i ■ '■ t /. i , 1 Soon our eyes became more accustomed to the gloom, and falls became less numerous. We were moving across an open prairie covered with long grass, which hid the logs, thus impeding our pro- gress. Presently we came to the river — still and deep. There was not a sound to be heard. Through the thin places in the shifting clouds we could see that the moon was up, and once, the light being a little stronger, we saw, far away upon the .sky-line, a low range of mountains. They might have been five or fifty miles away. Allah said that he thought the fort lay close to this range ; but as he had no standard measure of distance, it was useless to ask him whether they were far off Every moment, however, we became more and more convinced that we should not reach M^'Leod that night, and as the certainty of failure grew, our spirits went down, and we felt how tired we really were. After a while we entered the thick timber. There the logs lay piled one above the other to the height of a man's chest ; they were slippery as glass. Not a breath of wind stirred the leaves. It was the weirdest scene I have ever looked upon, and the strange rugged figure of the Beaver Indian now and then standing clear against the sky did not make it any more commonplace. A fate seemed to follow Pollen ; he had been walking very lame, and now he again slipped on one of the wet logs, and fell, once more injuring his foot. So we led to the We were with long I our pro- — still and be heard. clouds we i, the light upon the hey might h said that ^e ; but as ce, it was off. more and h M'-Leod grew, our we really ck timber. ther to the lippery as eaves. 1 1 ked upon. ver Indian the sky t. A fate Iking very of the wet t. So we HUNGER AND COLD o]^ halted whilst he bound up his hurt. Suddenly, far away up the valley we heard the faint tinkle of a cattle-bell. We listened, holding our breath ; the woods were as silent as the tomb ; then again the clear note rang out, reviving our hopes. Of course, the animal might have wan^lered ten miles from the homestead, but at least we were on the right track. Allah climbed up a tree, looking for any signs of a fire, but saw nothino-. Then for another hour we plodded forward. Sud- denly we heard the sound of rushing water. We had been told that the river was fordable in front of the fort : was this the ford ? We could see the water gleaming ahead of us through the trees. As we approached the gleam grew broader and broader. It was the lake! W^e rushed down to the sliore. As we did so, the friendly clouds passed for a moment from before the moon, and there in the moonlight, on the opi^osite side of the river, a building loomed up big in the darkness. It was the fort ! We stood in a group on the bank and stared out across the stream ; for fully a minute not a word was spoken ; then some one said, ' By Jove!' and we relapsed into silence. After a little while another suggested that this was M^Leod. but his words carried no conviction. We watched that buildmg as though we expected to see it melt away like a figure in a dream. Still the fort !»!• (1 f I ;■ i i I if' b -U :^i. Mr 9 »J 214 TII1<: LAM) OI' THI' "\Ii:SKI":{i remained solid, and we observed it, wondering. Slowlv the couraire of the truth came to us, and we reaHsed that whilst we stood, cold, weary, ragged, and starving on this side, just beyond that narrow strait was warmth, rest, and plenty. And yet we did not move, for we saw that the river was deep, and feared to find that we could not cross. F'ew i)eople who have not suffered it know what it feels like to be hungry, really hungry, within sight of tood. Perhaps it is better that they should not know, for it is not a pleasant schooling. Some- times when a crisis comes in our lives we watch it quietly, as though we had already rehearsed the complications and seen the issue. Hunger and exhaustion had brought us low — how low we had not understood ; and now at last, when our work was done, and the end stood revealed before us. our minds could not grasp the idea, and we only muttered little banale ])hrases as we stared into the darkness. Round was the first to break the spell. We knew that the name of the Hudson's Hay officer in charo-e of the fort was Alexander. Our onlv chance of supper lay in attracting his attention ; so Round shouted, 'Ho. Alexander!' Then we all shouted. An echo took up the word, and far away across the lake we heard, ' Alexander ! Alexander ! ' Then silence. Not a lis^ht showed from the fort. mmm^mmmt mmmmmmm Hr.\(ii:R AM) COLD 215 vonderinor. ;o US, and d, weary, -'yond that ity. And the river could not now what y, within ey should ^ Some- ve watch arsed the iger and ^ we had Dur work 'eforc us, we only ' into the ^11. We y officer )ur only ition ; so 1 we all far away zander ! " the fort. Then again we shouted, 'Ho, Hudson's Bay!' The echo answered mysteriously. ' Hay ! Bay ! ' For a moment a sickening fear took hold of us that Alexander was away, or the fort deserted. So we shouted again and again, and I fired my revolver repeatedly. Then we listened. There was a sound of a creaking door and a muffled ' Halloo ' reached our ears. This at least was no echo. I fired my revolver into the air once more, and again we heard the voice, ' Who are )ou .^ ' Then Pollen: 'We are English gentlemen, come across the mountains from Dunvegan, and we are starving ; could you send a boat and fetch us across } ' For a few moments we waited, and then a canoe with two men in her came out of the dark- ness. Allah rushed down to the shore, but we could not allow Alexander's first impressions of the ' English gentlemen ' to be quite so startling, so we moved in front of him. Twenty paces from where we stood the canoe halted, and again we were questioned. Then she came to land. ' My name is Alexander,' said one of the men, 'and this is my brother.' We introduced ourselves, and asked him if he would take us across in the canoe. He seemed only half-awake, and did not ai)pear to understand what we were, or where we had come from, but I think that he was almost too drowsy to be surprised at anything. He landed us upon the beach, and we walked in silence towards the fort. I ,:-t', j_., % w i^ '^ [■ t J t 1 I 1 I' II '! I* H L k I 1» IV^l' * H :*.' ' 2l6 THi: LAM) ()!• I IIM .MlSKl'Ci The ground was l(jvcl, and here and there were charred logs, the remnants of old camp-fires. Alexander told us that we had better collect these and make; our (ire at once, as there was no other wood about the place and no room in the house. We declared that we would do whatever suited him best, but that what we wanted was footl ; and we implored him not to keep us w^aiting. By this time we had reached the fort. It was a small log cabin, similar to those used by miners all over Western America, but more than usually squalid and out of re[)air. I am bound to say that I did not remark this until after we had eaten. Alex- ander made a fire in the sleeping- room, and then had a good look at us. Certainly our appearance was strange. We were thin beyond descri[)tion, our faces pinched and hollow, our bodies emaciated and clothed in rags, long, ill-kempt hair hung almost to our shoulders, and the bones upon the backs of our hands stood out sharp as knives. Pollen looked very ghastly, with a shaggy beard and pinched cheeks. 1 found that I was no longer hungry, but had a curious feeling of extreme emi)tiness. Whilst Alexander was gone in search of supper we sat upon the floor round the fire and talked of the past day ; we had I'liI.l.liN l.doKl.l) \\.\<\ l;ll.\^^•n.v ■ ni\GI-:R AM) COLD 217 ere were .mp-fires. jct these no other e house, lited him and we this time 3g cabin, y miners rica, but ah'd and lound to lark this Alex- ileeping'- Dod look Dearance ire thin ir faces 1 clothed : to our -ir hands i^d very ^eks. 1 curious exander he floor we had marched for nearly sixteen hours with the pack-train, and now nearly three more without food, and this seemed to delio^ht us childishly, so that we said it over and over ayain, and boasted about it amongst ourselves. It must be remembered in our favour that we had had a very hard time : we had not tasted food since the thin soup at breakfast ; for days we had not seen veg;;etables, but had lived entirely upon so much dried meat as a rigid economy would permit ; and even before we killed the horse we had worked hard for a long time on very short commons, living principally on fried bread and occa- sional beavers. And so perhaps it may not seem strange that now, when the work was done, we were not quite so reasonable as we might be. Alexander now returned heavily laden with ship's biscuits, canned beef, canned milk, a pot of jam, and some coflee. We hung over the food and watched the opening of the cans with delight. How good it seemed to eat! Beef and biscuits disappearetl rapidly. 'I'hen we held off a little, frightened lest we might weaken ourselves by a too hasty meal ; but we could not stop so soon, it seemed such a waste to leave good food untouched, so we set to upon the jam — and what a curious place in which to fintl Cross and Blackwell's jam! Alexander produced some rancid butter ; never did anything taste better. At last we finished and sat down to smoke our pipes and tell our adventures. We talked, and Alexander , 4 I 31 ■ li I ' w ;ap !! i r*'!( ,.' t r ■ 1' 2l8 THIi LAM) 01" Till' ML SKI'G iU 1 listtMied, lying back upon his blanket on the floor. Once more we ran over the incidents of the last two months, and told ajj^ain how the thought of M'Leod's I'^ort had cheered us on many weary marches ; and each time we spoke of it we realised more and more that we had reached our goal, and found a place Avhich seemed more precious than home. Our host was a young man, and a cheerful one, and soon there was no more talk of the fire outside on the flat, but we were told to consider the house our own, and to make ourselves com- fortable as best we could. Alexander said that he had been asleep when we began to shout, and that, even when he understood that we were white men who were speaking to him, he could not realise what had happened. He saw that we had no boats, and had not come by the river — the only highway of the country ; but it never struck him that we had come over the mountains, for he had not been in the district when Mr. Dawson came through fourteen years before, and so had only heard faint rumours of the possibility of a crossing. We sat round the bla/.ing log-fire till late into the nii>ht, f Vuw too elated to rest. It was arranged that Alexander should take some Indians and go up the river to our camp on the morrow. He said that he w^ould get the Indians to pack the horses, and would bring our unfortunate friends in camp back to the fort by water. It was , i in ■ """""^"■'"■■"■■viivniiSiHiQKn the floor. r the last loug^ht of U' weary J reaHsed ^oal, and OLis than cheerful the fire consider /es corn- aid that 3 shout, tiiat we him, he He saw by the ; but it i^er the district n years > of the blazintr ated to Id take imj) on Indians rtunate It was HU\GI:R AM) COLD 219 growincr late, so we turned into the warm dry blankets, and, still trying to talk and smoke, dropped off to sleep, whilst the firelight danced upon the beams. But our rest was not unbroken ; ever)- few minutes John got up and made himself a cup of coffee, till it seemed impossible that he could hold more, and we were obliged to remonstrate. At last, as the first grey light of the morning showed Iliint on the window-pane, we fell asleep, utterly worn-out and exhausted. JOHN .SAYS GUOlMIVi; It a ^f ■* t I II m" i 1 :i ti »'; UJ ' If. /! C H A V T I-: R X TlIK PORTA IRS AND SICCANEES On the followiiiL;' inorniiin- Alexander went down to our camp, taking an abundance of provisions with liim for the rest of our company, and I belie\'e that they fell upon them as voraciously as we had done upon our arrival at the fort. At all events they cme in about midday with the pack-train, and then we all set down to a seri- ous meal. We cooked bacon and potatoes, and ate our fill in the usual and idiotic way in which half-starved men always btihave. And so it hapi)ens that my recollections of our daily life at M'^Leod are not very distinct, but 1 remember spending- some days on my back upon the grass, surrounded by the rest of the party, also on their backs, and comparing the details of my sufferings with those of my companions. iiiirr NM.Koi) ■J-JO B33^ iiii': roRiAiRs .\\i) sicc.\\i:r:s 221 nt down •ovisions [ believe we had nts they n about with the lin, and .' all set D a seri- al. We bacon totatoes, our fill ■starved :hat my lot very s on my it of the 2 details IS. One day an old blind Indian and his wife came up the lake in a canoe, and crept to us beguincr for food, and sayin^ that they were starving;-. W'e were naturally very sympathetic to all who were in this condition, for we liad exijcrienced the trouble our- selves, so we o-ave them food in abundance. The wretched old man was evidently very much afraid of his wife, and feared that she would steal his portion, so he shielded his plate from her, and con- stantly fm_o(;red the outlines of the meat to see that none was missino". The)- we-re dressed in ragged marmot robes, and were a miserable-looking- cou[)l(.'. There can be but little comfort in old ai-e amon^r.st a savage people, and in so barren a country it is a wonder that any one attains to it. For once a man's strength is gone he can no longer hunt, and so must die like a beast. He may have been the greatest hunter of his tribe, but when he becomes weak there is no pity, and he must slowly starve: or depend for his life on chance morsels which the young men may throw to him. However, the Company is very charitable, and feeds many of the aged and infirm who have brought fur to them in former days. As the old man, Xytsidone, was blind, his wife had to do the work for both, but in spite of her care for her husband, (juite unlike the •old Dutch,' she not only 'jawed ' and 'made him smart,' but sometimes emphasised the sting of her tongue with the help of the canoe paddle. 1 « 4 I' ' i. If II- 1 '■ ■ ;'-' 1 (" ^ 1( l^ % '•Jt ' > ■f i' ' ■ij u 1 I i 1 "J 1 l^? ' i ' I / Itl ' )'il < ';( P- 1», i:i If ^1 )J ; i 1 1 222 Till': LAM) t)I- TIIIC MLSKICC. I'hc weather was uann and the fort conifort- al)lc, so that after a few dajs of pain wc beL;an to rcjcovcr and to think about our future plans. The expedition was practically over, for we had crossed the mountains and passed throu^li our huntinj^-i^roiuuls. It only remained for us now to march out to the railway as (juickly as possible. r>ut it was evident that neither John, Daukhan, nor Allah would be able; to accompany us, for it was already late in the year, and they must turn back towards the I )unve<j^an district if they wished to reach home ])efor(^ the comint^ of winlc:r. Of course they could not cross the mountains a^^^ain, for this would take them far too lonLT ; but thev mi<dit builil a raft and lloat down the Parsnip and the Peace. On the eastern side of the mountains the Peac(; enters a canon which is absolutely impassable in boats, and so they would hv forced to make a twelve-mile portage and construct another raft on the river l)elow. We had hoped that they would be able to march some part of the journey towards civilisation with us, antl then r(;turn to the river, but we now saw that this was impossible, and that we must travel without them. Even as it was, we doubted if they would get home before the ice began to run on the Peace, We could only pay them their due, and get provisions for their long journey. In addition to a full sup[)ly of food, we presented John and Daukhan with a im ]f iiir: I'oRiAiks wi) si(c.\mi:s 223 :omfort- .' lKL;an J plans. wc had ijjjh our now to possible. 'aukhaii, )r it was ni back ishcd to f course for this y mii^ht [lud th(; ains tlu; )assabk' make a aft on wouUl towards river, and as it "ore the I only r their [)ly of with a couple of horses apiece in recoi^nition of their services. Allah hail already received his hors(; in l;Olil N I KAM^I V |)ayment, and they would be; obliged to build their raft of s^reat size to accommodate the five .1' ) \\\ \H mm^f^^ ■^ I*."' i|'!;: :i- ' i: I ; V I !) :^ 224 'illl'. LAM) ()!■ rill-: ML'SKI'C; animals. Daukhan made us many speeches, and thanked us in his most courtly manner, sayins^ that as long as he lived he would never part with the horses which we had y^iven him, but that he hoped to live to see their children and children's children grow up under his care. Vov my part, I thought that the thanks should have been as much on our side, for nothing could ever repay the untiring labours and wonderful sagacity which had brought us to the end of our journey, and through so in- tricate a maze of swamps and mountains. And then they went, and we were very sorry to see the last of then-i, for more faithful men could not be found than John Knot and Daukhan Tus- torwits. Allah, the lieaver, who went with them, was evidently no judge of horse-flesh, lov iie chose for himself the worst and weakest horse in the tr li'i. sayinij; that he was ' tall and frood-lookincr.' When tliev were all gone we felt that the strongest link with our wild life of uncertainty and adven- ture had already been broken, and that we must at once push for\\;u-d and complete our journey. Our first move would be to the Hudson's Ba)- tb;t at Stewart's Lake, about a hundred miles away. From there we thought we could get canoes and go down the Stewart, Nechacoo, and Frazer rivers to Ouesnelle, from v'hich pkce we meant to travel by coach on th(! Cariboo road to Ashcroft. We had originally intended to go I'.j) ■^ ■VOWIi THE PORTAIRS AND STCCAXEHS 225 eches, and iayins^ that •t with the he hoped I's children I thought ich on our he untiring- ad brought 3ugh so in- ains. And •rry to see men could ikhan Tus- with them, ur he chose 3rse in the )d-looking.' le strongest and adven- t Ave must jr journey. Idson's Ba\- Id red miles could get Ihacoo, and 1 pk'ce we loo road to to go I'.p the Crocked River to the Frazer, but this would entail a long portage, and we heard that the river was very low, so that a man who had travelled by this route some time before had been oblioed to construct dams in order to float his boat at all, and so had taken some months over a few miles. There was then nothing for it Ijut to go to Stewart's l.ake instead of taking the shorter rout>- and from there must travel some; 250 miles by water and a like distance by road be- fore reaching the railwa)'. Alexander said that the trail to Stewart's Lake was open and the ground good, and that we mioht march fast ; but we were still weak and did not relish the idea, and were very much pleased when he voIimtec;red to accompany us, brinuinij some horses of his own in order that we mi<rht ride. As soon as we had <jot a sufficient quantity of pro\ isions we left the fort, and iravell'; 1 gaily along the trail, driving the pack-hor.ses. We were still very unwell, so that riding was by no means a pleasure for the first thr(;e days, and the poor Doctor suffered tortures, and l.)umi)ed breathless upon an air-cushion. Hut after ;i while we rv.- r ON A licMII) 1 K.MI. ■I m'i I • fife , '1 ' (■■ ■ ' ' I I; :l I'i ■ !; 4 fU 'i ! ^ ' . 226 rill' LAND OI- TIIF. MiUSi:i:(i covered and beg^an to enjoy ourseTves. and aj)prc- ciatc the firm orroLind and dry camping-jjlaccs. The country was lovely, the trees were already tinted by tlie autumn frosts, and we were really sorry when we reached the like on the fifth day. The Portair Indians, who live round its shores, build houses and live principally by fishinj^. so that Stewart's Lake is a small hamlet, and indeed looked a town to us as we rode up. The fort is large, and has many out-buildin<rs and corrals by the water-side, where we unpacked our animals, Mr. Murray, the officer in charcje, was away in a schooner on the lake, but his wife and friends welcomed us into the house with the kindness we had learned to expect; and there we lived for some days, and read up back numbers of old illustrated papers, or lounged on the porch, watching the storms upon the lovely lake. lUit on the day of our departure; we hatl much to disturb us, for we found, on getting our packs together, that our smaller kodak was missing. It must have dro[)ped off the pack upon the march, and might be twenty miles away by the side of the trail. The only thing to do was to offc;r a reward, aiul s(;nd the nativ(;s out to s(;arch for it. We told Father Morice of our difficult)-, and enlisted Iiis help, for his inlliienc(! with the Indians is [)r()digious. I'"ather Morice is \\\v. Catholic missionary, and we had made his ac(iuaintance almost as soon as we ' I ( ■**',i^J;'>s^3v^rt»JitT<i«.,ir5*-ix*«-iw:-*™»^=*'*« Till' I'ORTAIKS AM) STCCANKRS 227 nd a|)pr(;- iccs. re already •ere really fth day. its shores, ig, so that eed looked l-l)uildings : unpacked in charge, lit his wife e with the d there we [lumbers of the porch, l)iit on to disturb together, must have might be ail.* The and send Id Father s help, for IS. I'ather we had )n as we arrived, and thus came in contact with one of the most remarkabU; men in North-\Vest(;rn America. Pere Moric(; was, of course, a I'renchman, but his Hnglish was irre[)r()achable. it is something of a surprise to fmd a savant and a man of learning working amongst the Indians in a lonely Northern mission. l)Ut, judging by his congregation, it was evident that his talents were not thrown away. The Carrier Indians are immeasurably superior to their relations th(; Heavers. They buikl logdiouses, and many sjjcak I'Lnglish, and read books and a nionthl)- !'■.■■ .vv in the nati\'(; tongue;, printed in the syllabary whicli th(M*r [)ri(;st lias in- vented for them. This is one of th(i many extra- ordinary achie\'ements of this prince of missicjnaries, who not only is his own editor, compositor, and printer, but has in- ventctl a most inirenious s\llabar\', which is easiK learnt — so that Indians wlio have no idci what writing is, ha\e been known U) Karn to read and write this language with perfect corrcclness after two or three days' instruction. ( )f course, their maimer of lir<' is not that of the civilised man., for (heir employmeiu n-uiains unchanged, and they ' AKiaiCK IMJIANS rt '!}■ 'WT! hi ]' »" ;f' 1 I m t\ ** i I ' I: A '\ 11 '■■' 228 THI': LAND OI" Tlir: MrSKI'C. still hunt and fish like other Indians; but they iiave been given many of the advantages of civili- sation, and none of its evils. Pere Morice himself is the greatest authority upon their history and customs, and has written much concerning them. All that I shall say about these people I learned from him, and much that is written here is cjuoted from his writings. It seems that the Portairshave a far keener desire for civilisation and knowledge than the rest of the Dene family. And thus, while they received the missionaries and wel- comed their teaching, many of the other tribes refused to do so. When first tliscovered these Indians were much the same as their neighbours, living ill t(;nts of skin, and dressing in marmot and beaver robes. They w(M-e not apparently a warlike people, but occasionally the neighbouring tribes would fall upon each other, or one family would wipe out some long-standing feud. In such cases the men went into battle in a kind of armour made of sticks placed close together, or j)repared moose-hides, and attacked their enemies with spears or Hint- headed arrows. Metal-working was almost unknown to them, but lhe\ j)rocur(Kl copper from the Coast Indians, with which they made ornaments and the small tweezers that the men carried, and used to A I'AIK (II- rWKIV.I'.KS 'I {'. Till': I'ORTAIRS AM) SICCAXIU'S 229 i ; but they Lies of civili- st authority has written ill say about nuch that is eener desire rest of the , while they ;s and ^\•el- lany of the so. When idians were neighbours, nd dressing- bes. They •like people, s would fall d wipe out es the men ide of sticks loose-hides, irs or llint- •st unknown 1 the Coast Us and ihf md used to pluck with o-re;it care the few hairs from their chins, accordinsr to their custom. Pere IMorice mentions a legend about thib copper which I think is worth repeating- : — 'Many years ago all the Indians conm-co;ated at a certain point on the sea-coast around a tower- like mountain of copper standing in the midst of the water. Their object was to decide which tribe should get possession of this mountain. They all commenced to shout, and the mountain after a time began to totter, so that the Kaidahs, who had big heads and strong voices, caused it to fall on their side. "And thus it was," say the Carriers, "that those men own the copper mountain, and c\'\r since we must get from them the metal when we want to adorn our wives and daufrhters." ' The Fortairs do not appear to have had any distinct religion or form of worship, although they feared a kind of impersonal Nature-god, who was believe 1 to cause wind and snow, and to regulate the movements of the heavenly bodies. They therefore employed the medicine-man to propitiate this god and his dependent spirits. The medicine-man was, m consequence, a ))erson of great Importance in the tribe, and it was believed that he could kill any one who offended him by tlu; mere force of his will. His aid was always called for in cases of sickness, which they imagined were caused by some foreign presence or materialised evil spirit not unlike the I Jl i , ' ft wrr i» '1 i ■ .i it 1^1 . I,! i I i ' 1 \ i .1 •5 *:i )' t iv ' !)' • ' I ; I r 'V' I ,,l ' 230 rill'. LAND ()!• I III': MISKI'.C A i'i;i.iiisi'()i;ii MM RnUi: modern microbe of science. Maviiii;, through his violent (exertions and loud cbantin^, worked him- self into a iVen/y, ami almost into a trance, the metlicine-man would commc;nce to suck the alllicted part of the sick man, and after a while; would produce from his mouth, either a thorn, an insect, a toad, or a small hlack stone ball. These he vvouKl exhibit as tlu; cause; of the illness, and after a few more passes and chant- iiiij^s, the patiem, according- to the natives, im- mediately recov(;red. In serious illness, when death was likely to over- take; the sick, the m (; d i c i n e - m a n would throw him- self into a trance and visit the other world, begging the; shade of the dyini;' man to return to his body. Some- times the shade de- clined, but often the medicine-man would awake, and, takinn; the spirit in the [)alm of his hand, would restore it to the head of the sick man, upon wliich he; im- mediat{;ly recovered. Father Morice declared that STONI-; SI'I.Ai; AND AUNoW lli:Ali.S n rm* iBH^I^B"!!" i^^i^!^ lirouoh Ills orked hiin- trancc, the ICC to suck V man, and c. from liis cct, a toad, These; he the ilhiess, and chant- itives, im- vhen deatli ly to over- sick, the ne -ma n irow him- > a trance the other -g.Li'ng the the dyino- return tc^ Some- shade de- nit often Heine-man /ake, and, lid restore ich he im- kired that rill': I'oRi.MRS AM) siccam;i:s 231 many of the okler men had witnessed this perform- ance, and had ^-reat faitli in the power of the medicine-man. The Portairs believe in the immor- tahty ol cue soul, but also that souls in times of sickness may wander, even during the life of ii man. When he is in a healthy state this soul-shade is in- visible, but when iie falls ill the shade will wander, and his friends must do their best to make it return to his body. In order to accomplish this, tliey will hang up the patient's moccasins stuffed with feather-down. Should the feathers become warm, it is a symptom that the wandering soul is present, and with great care and silence they put them on the feet of the sick man, being careful not to let the shade escape out of the shoe. Before the Christian religion disturbed their ancient customs the ideas of these Indians con- cerning a future state were far from pleasant, for they believed that dried toads would be their only food. 1 quote the following myth from b'aiher Morice's writings, as it will give some idea of the religion and belief of the Portairs : — 'A long time ago two young men got lost in a wood, and in the course of their wanderings came upon a decayc;d and hollow tree which was lying on the ground. Out of curiosity they crawlctl in to see where it led, as only one end was visible. They went for a long time on their han>ds and 4\ I; M ^ 1-' I .i f i , ) <* ' i^^ ' !, i n t 4 1> 232 I III'. Ly\Ni) or rill': miski.c, kn(i(;.s in ;i dark sul)lf;rr;mcaii passajj^c;, till tin;)' caiiK; to a |)la((: full (,\ snakes, loads, and li/ards. They were terrified l)y this dreadhil |)lace, and tried to L(() back, hut could not ; so they rushed forward, and after a time tlie way hroadeiiecl and it became hL;ht. Su(Kh,-nly they found themselves on the toj) ol a hill, commanding the \iew of a broad river, on iIk; other side of whii h stood a \illaL;c. It consist(Ml of many red and black houses builtol boards, where the shades dwelt ; and they saw the shades enjo)inL; thems(;lves on a lawn. I'herc: were immcMise numbers of them, and th(;y to(;k i^q-eat in- terest in a i^ame, shoutiiv'- and makin<»- a deafenin,!^ noise. Now, one of the Dl-.AM M.( KI,.\< IC I' younsj^ men was very much fri.L^ditcned b) all this, and hit! himself, but the; other called out to the shades lo send some out; with a canoe to fetch him across; but so iiTf-al was tlu; tumult that they could not hear hii'm. '\ftcr a while he ^^ot tired of shouting, and chanced to yawn. One of the spirits heard the ■^ » , till tll(.'y nd li/ards. )lac(;, and (;y ruslicd l<'ncd and li<:iiis(:lv(.-.s view of a li stood ;i consisted and black <j| l^jards, shades they saw enjo) in_M )n a lawn, immense hem, and L^Tc-at m- a .!-;anie, 1 makinor J!; noise. of the was very self, hut nd some hut so lot hear in^, and I III'. I'OkTAIks AM) SIC(\.\i.:|.;s 233 movin-olhis jaws,' and sent some on<: across the river to lUch him. liut Ik; had no soonc^r stepped into the hlack canoe than iiis foot sank down as thou-h the bottom of the boat was elastic. Then the ferryman smelt him, and shouted that he did not smell hre and had not been burnt.^^ Th<'refore they s(u-xed him in their ll<:shl(.-ss arms, and tossed I^'ini in the air like a ball, imtil nothin- remained hut his empty skin. This they ihn.-w into the river, when; a hu-<: hsh devoured it. All this time the other youiiL; man had remained in hidin- ; but as soon as he -oi u chance he hast(;ned back to the dark passa-'e and passed throu-h the chamber of snakes and toads without fear, for his sojourn in the world of shades had made another man of him. just as he was crawlin,<r out of the hollow tr(;(; he heard a terrific v(;ice callino- "(irandson, orand- son!" and soon he met a -iant, who adojitc'd him ; and after livincr f,,,- a Ion- time with his n(;w orand- (atlu.'r, and havino- many wonderful adventures, he hnally went up to the moon, where he remains visible to this day.' t < As bather M oriC(; I'oints out, the similarity be- tween the .Siyx of the ancients and tl Portair Indian le nv(;r o ftl le s IS verv curious. rom the same source I iia\c taken the I oMowniij m\ til of Tlir i'orl; liis K'i'anI llu y call bacjv Ihr ilc|.:irlc | spiiiis i,, ,.,-irili '' TIlO illlticiil (;ii>,linii .■|iiilliiie. yawnin^r as ominous, and hrJirM ijiai hy m, il,,ini. 1)1 cicniatKai iiiii.,t ac i I li OHiipaiiy the lionoii .1 234 IIII' I.AM) ()!• I III'; MISKI'C. ' T IF. (RKATION OK I.KillT. it ' A \o\v^ time a_L;() (hirkness rci^iuxl all u\ cr tlui curtli, (;.\cc[)t in tlie U)d>;c of one old man, a noble, who alone possessed lii^ht, fire;, and water. Now, all men were very miserable, and continually sighed after liyht, entreating- the old man to share it with tluMii ; but he. would not. Finally, they Leathered together, and (k;cided to _n"{;t what they wanted by force, so they went with all the animals to the lodj^e of the old man, and started a sonj^ which shoukl win the h\;ht from him by continual chanting- antl beatino- of the tom-tom. E:\d\ of the crowd had his own sonL(, and the ^'ouul; fox ^Khaih-pa-lsLh "he cries for daylis^dit ") chanted Kliaili, Kliaili, Kliaili, expcctint^ to ^ct the light ; but still the old man was inflexible. However, the assembly pleaded for light so often that, after a while, it began to steal slowly up the heavens, as it now does every morn- ing. Then the old man shouted and it disap[)cared again. Yet the young fox would not tire of repeat- ing his chant, and both men and animals vied with one another in turbulent singing, hoping to weary the old man. And now again the light began to show upon the horizon, and the old man got con- fused, and exclaimed, "Let there be light!" and immediately there was light ; and so it has been to this day.' i 1 ' ;"! I III' I'ORTAIKS AXI) SICCAM-ICS 235 I over the 1, a noble, ^r. Now, lily sighed ire it with ,!4atliered ^'anted by the l()d_L;e :h should itiiiL;- and 'owd had ih-pa-iso, ', K/iai/i, II the old { pleaded n to steal ry morn- ai)[)cared if repeat- aed with to weary )eoan to i,^ot con- t!" and i been to ' TIIK CkKATION OF KIRK.' ' Hitherio tlK-re had i)een no fn-c. and all were iK-numbed with the cold, except tlu; same old man, who had (Ire in his lodoe, which he jealously -uarded.' An-ain they wished to have fire, as they had already .L;ot th(^ li^hl ; but they decided that they must -ain it by stealth. And so they en.<,ra.<rcd the services <)t a yearling- cariboo and of a musk-rat. I favinn- made for the former a ceremonial head-dress (} resinous pine shavinos, and presented the latter with a ceremonial apron of marmot skin, they entered the old man's lodge and sang. The cariboo danced and the musk-rat sangO.^ Skcltc.^ The cariboo swung his head to right and left as he dancc;d, hoping to catch some of the fire with his head-dress. But whenever the lire appeared the old man extinguished it. At last, however, the musk-rat carried a live coal through a burrow in the ground and set fire to the forest. And thus men gained fire.' I he creation of water was somewhat different. The spirit, Ivstas, changed himself into a pine needle, which the daughter of the old man, who alone possessed water, drank by accident. Not ( I1N.( (i||\ rii'i'; 'f % It is curious tliat I go to prove that the legcn lis word is uuinlelligible to the I'ortairs, which wouk native to tiie nci IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k 0"- A fc ^ 1.0 I.I i^llliy 12.5 1^ iiai m 12.2 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 M 6" — ► V] ^ /J a / .> •'^ /^ ? Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN S REET WE&JiER M >' I'tSSO (716) 872-4503 # <>> 4C-^ ?V \^ 'i^ <^. <*■ O^ K> ^Y<> '% 17 >. .< c^ i/.A Fi!^ 9 i 'n ''il f n''^ •^'i ^ ^ ■( h IS;- :> »» .( * 2':i6 Tllli Ly\\I) or THI': MUSKI-O loiiLi^ afterwards she had a son, who was Estas, though she did not know it. The child grew at a great pace, and as soon as he was able to walk commenced to move the vessel in which his grand- father kept the water. At last, when he was a grown man, he rushed out of the lodge with the water and gave it to men, sprinkling it over the earth, and making lakes, rivers, and seas. - ' ' ^ WOUDKN < (J.MIi i;i ! I V 1 if .(! !■ I /as Estas, 1 grew at le to walk his grand- he was a with the over the ■^^^^WP» • "l 'w^'^mmmmm^^m^^'^^ I (' 7- 1 ': 1" I 1 ♦' I" ii t U V I; \ ^ I i' ( -^ Hi '!! tr FORT M'LEOD TO FORT GEOROE AND QUESNEL MOUTH. i\ i'ru/d../. ,tfi/f. ,f,'JI6 I MOUTH. i\ -— ■ 1 1 ^ («„,/ j i ^ j "^7 i 1 s. [ 1 '■?'r -^^"^ ■x^"" « I • ■^i^'^^^IW^B^^^pi «*«iP ^"^^^ 'I I y C H A P T !• R X I DOWN I'HE RAPIDS AND AWAY Wk had now been at Stewart's Lake for several clays, and, ^vith the help of the priest and our friends at the fort, had procured the services of four Indians, who would take us and our belongincrs down to Ouesnelle in two canoes. Alexander had already returned to Fort M^Leod. and we had got rid of our faithful pack-train. The search for the smaller kodak had proved useless, but we felt that we could not afford to waste any more time, ami so were forced to go without it.' All the canoes on the lake are 'dug-o-it.' and we found two of this variety waiting for us on the morning of our departure. We loaded in our baggage and shoved off from the shore, with an Indian in the bow and another in the stern. Ramsey and the Doctor were in the smaller boat with two ' This kodak was f.miul l,y the natives s.unc days afu-r .iiir (IciKutiire aiul was kept at Stewart's Lake until the following spiini,'. when it went ,iowi, the r.ver to (,)uesnelle, and so out to tlie railway. Thus, heM.lcs being constantly wet upon the hack of a i)ackliorse f,,r months on the expedition itself, it travelle.l nearly two hundred miles in canoes in charge of Indians, nearly three hundred miles on a stage-coach, and fnially from Aslicroft to I.onilon by tram and ocean. Many of the illustrations in this l.nrL- were taken with this camera. 237 III 238 Tin- T,A\I) ()!• Tin- Ml'SKI'G Indians; whilst Round, Pollen, and I took the larger boat with the other pair of boatmen.' Thus we started away, waving our adieus to our friends on the shore, who had entertained us so well. After paddling a few miles we came to the Stewart River, and passed many native fishint-traps and drying-stages, where the crows sat in hundreds. ON illi; l-KA/.KU IN A l)L(i-(iLT Then we went on down the stream. Now and again we came to small rapids — a foretaste of the great cascades ahead ; in such places we could feel the pull of the water as it rushed ever more swiftly towards the narrow passage. Then there would be a soft gliding movement, and then the crest of ' The l'int:\ii- liulians originally used only llic liiicli-hark canoe ; Init some sixty years n_t;o a party of Irocpiois Indians came into their country with ' diit,'- ouis,' and so ihe l.'orlairs killed them, and look their boats as niotlels. 'VU. i^^Vi took the ;n.> ieus to our ined us so inie to the ihing-traps hundreds. Now and 3te of the could feel re swiftly re would 2 crest of lie ; hut sdim; try with 'diit,'- lodels. nowx Tin.: rapids and away 239 a wave would sweep over the side of the canoe and drench us to the skin, whilst the little boat leaped and twisted amon.crst the rocks and currents. In this way we travelled many miles, sometimes in deep, still water, where the boat ran easy, and the Indians would sway in time, and chant their boatinn-sono-. or stop rowino-, and fire wildly at a flock of o-eese, or at a coyote or fisher on the bank. They never hit anythin- for an Indian cannot shoot in company ; he must be alone to kill c^ramc ; but they were very cntertainingr, and spoke a little En_L;;-lish. In camp at ni.crht they would chant their prayers until the small hours of the morning very melodi- ously. On the second day we joined the Nechaco River, and now the rapids became more serious. Many times we came to eight or ten miles of fast water, where the canoe would race by the bank at an extraordinary pace. Large boulders blocked the river in these places, against which the water beat and swirled. If a canoe attempted to pass one of these at a short distance, the wash would probably overturn it, so that one has to run the boat directly at the rock, and allow the water to deflect the bow just before the canoe strikes. As may be imagined, all this is most exciting, and now and then we had some very narrow escapes. Of course, if once the boat capsized, a man would stand no chance in this kind of rapid water. 1:1 r.i. " ^,t \l < ■ 1 1 r ,■ ; il. I 240 Tin: LAND OI- TIIIv MlSKI-d We passed tlic I'ort George Canon in safety, and arrived about nii^lufall at the fort itself on the Frazer River, where we slept. The Hudson's Bay Company's officer in change proved to be a most delightful man, and told us many stories of his adventures in the country, and Indian tales that he had heard. Some years before, a party of Indians, who were huntin*' in the bush in the Fort (ieorue NKAKI.Y A Mll.l'. IIKOAD district, ran short of food. For many days they starved, until their reason left them. At last another Indian came across them, and found them pickin*;' the bones of one of their comrades. When he approached the camp they fired upon him, so he went away and came back some days later with a j^arty. On returning- to the camp, however, they found that the wretched men had decided to kill another of their number, but had fallen out as to the choice, and by the time th(Mr rescuers arrived safety, and icif on the idson's liay be a most •rics of his lies that he dians, who jrt (ieoi'Lie ^^ T days they At last found them es. When on him, so 'y later with vever, the)' ded to kill I out as to ers arrived DOWN nUl RAPIDS AND AWA^' 241 they were all dead, and the wolves and coyotes had devoured the .[.Greater part of their bodies. On the morning of our departure from the fort we found our canoe men in high spirits, for they had been gambling the greater part of the night, and had won heavily. The unfortunate natives of the place came down to see us off. and told sadly how one had lost a fiddle, another a shirt, another a frying-pan, and so on. Towards afternoon we 'THK KIVKR OKOPPF-D OUT OK SIGHT OVKR A KAI.I, ' reached the great Cottonwood Canon, and halted by the bank to inspect it. I have passed over the details of the shooting of the Fort George Rapids, but the Cottonwood made so deep an impression on me that I must attempt to describe it. To begin with, the Frazer River, which is in many places nearly a mile broad, narrows as one approaches the rapids. Far ahead you can hear a low muffled roar, and already the water beeins to V I , .'• !• 242 Till- LAND Ol" Till' Ml'SKI-Ci m:* > )'v . ' I 1 ■1 > * pull at the canoe. It seems as thou<jjh the water itself had become thicker and denser. This is one's first sensation. As you approach, the roar becomes louder and more ominous, and it seems as though the river dropped out of slight over a fall. Now and again you can see white breakers surgini,^ for a mOiUent above this miniature horizon. Meanwhile the stream runs faster and faster, but you paddle to the shore and get out upon the rocks. Now comes the most unpleasant time of all, for there is no action or movement to distract your thoughts, and the more you look at the rushing water the less you like it. Below you the river dashes madly between high walls of rock, humming and roaring as the immense volume crushes into the narrow space. We stood and watched it, planning out our road ; how we would go the right here and the left there, and where we would pass the high rock which stood in the middle of the passage. On the farther shore were two wooden crosses which the pious natives had 'greeted to some unfortunates who had been drowned in the rapid. Our head canoe-man cut some tobacco from a plug, whilst his hand shook with excitement. He had a little English, but his remarks were not cheerful. ' Damn bad caiion,' he would say. ' awful bad ' ; ' Drown 'em all-the- time ; yes, Sywash drown 'em, six white men, drown 'em, — awful bad, — 'fraid I lose de whole damn lot of you.' Then we returned to the canoes and took DOWN TIIIC RAPIDS AM) \\\ A\ 243 the water Ill's is one's ar becomes as thout^h fall. Now 'gin.L,^ for a Meanwhile 1 paddle to Jovv comes lere is no Li<,^hts, and le less you y between ng as the pace. We oad ; how there, and li stood in her shore IS natives had been i-man cut nd shook li, but his d caiion,' n all-the- 2n, drown damn lot and took our places, stowing our baggage as low as we could in the boat ; our steersman stood in the stern, and we all paddled out into the stream. The first rule in shooting rapids is always to keep the canoe movmg faster than the water, otherwise you can get no steerage way and will soon be swamped, therefore we paddled forward to the white line of spray as fast as we could. Suddenly the canoe shot away down the stream as it touched the head of the rapid, and in a moment we were tearing along in the roar of the waters. The steersman, standing up, threw himself from side to side and strained on his paddle, whilst the boat leaped to right and left as the currents altered. Never have I seen anything so wildly exciting ; we toiled and struggled, bent over our paddles whilst the waters seemed to leap and yell, and the steersman shouted his orders between his gasps for breath. The rocks flew past us and the water eddied back from the cliffs, so that we were thrown half-across the river at every turn. Then slowly the roar grew less, and after a while we came to a sort of whirlpool where the water slung round in still oily curls, and sucked in the middle like a half-emptied basin. Here and there the current ran swiftly across the bed of the river from shore to shore, and even met us as we came down the stream. In some places the river was many feet higher than in others, and so, silent and treacherous, the rapids at last calmed ii fi'i IH "11 Hi . 1 ' li a ' I ! i (! I.! V 244 Till- LAM) ()!■ I HI- MISKI-G down, and we lloatcd in smooth water some miles IjcIow. The Indians launched th'j short lauj^h which they always indiiij^c in after danijer, and then we rested from paddling and watched the other boat jiitching and struggling in the foam behind us. lielow the rapid the river ran sluggishly, but here and there large boulders lay just beneath the water, and the stream rippled over them with a quiet 'SMOOTH WATER SOMK MII.KS HIXOW £1' ► I ;» ♦ In splash. That night we camped near the house of a Chinaman, built after the manner of his country, and indeed we saw many of these people upon the river-bank digging for gold. A white man can hardly make a living from the gold in this part of the Frazer. but a Chinaman, who has few wants, lives cheap and makes money. As we passed these industrious people our boatman yelled out choice and entertaining insults both in English and in their own tongue. All the next day we paddled '^<i^ DOWN Till': KAI'IDS AND AWAV 245 lOmc miles lort lauLjh Linger, and Itched the the foam y, but here the water, h a quiet ■ ^9ht« ■• ^ I house of 3 country, upon the man can is part of vv wants, ised these Jt choice 1 and in paddled forward |)l(;asantly down the great river, whilst the loons cried on the hank, and hawks and such like birds hung JuVli ovcrheatl. Night came, but we were anxious to reach Ouesnclle, and did not camp, but went on in the darkness. We could hardly see the other boat, much less the rocks in the river, so we would backwater and listen for the rush of the stream over a rock and then shoot forward a'-'ain into the stillness. At last we saw a few IJ^Iits ahead, and came down the river singing into tho little village of Ouesnelle. Quesnelle is the wreck of a once prosperous mining cur 4'. and is sufficiently desclnte. We put up at the hotel and sat in the bar-room, very ragged-looking specimens of hu- manity, as the new clerk just ou. from London seemed to think, for he took pleasure in staring at us, and then caress- ing his own collar-button with his fingers or looking at his irreproachable cuffs. Quesnelle received us kindly, as every one else had done in this land of hospitality, and with the assistance of Mr. Mac- naughton the Hudson's Bay Company officer, we soon had a wagon and started on our long drive to the railway. The old Cariboo road was once famous as the great gold-carrying highway of the country, and is marked in many places with white stones, where some unfortunate had been ' held up ' liONK MINNOW '/•M 246 Till' LAM) ()!■ THl- MlSKIXi I, ; M 'H ' ' )\) ;■ i;i lli and shot in the old troublous times. Hut all that is far away now, and tiie land is settled with ranchers and farmers. We pitched and heaved over our two hundred and fifty miles' drive after the usual manner of a Western staqe, tearinj^ down hills and round precipitous corners, or crawling' up steep inclines at a foot-pace. Once we met the weekly stage, and noticed the won- derful skill of its driver, tested whilst he started a bucking team at a gallop with a wheeler's leg entangled with the pole. But beyond this nothing remarkable occurred. On the hills above Ash- croft we saw the faint white smoke of the train, and then we really knew that our expedition was over and gone. Coming into the little town we met many Chilkotin Indians dressed in brightly coloured clothes, who smiled upon us and said 'Clehya' in a very friendly way. It seems that there was once a Hudson's Bay C()mj)any officer called Clark, and men would come to his place and say, ' Clark, how are you .-^ ' This the Indians pronounced 'Clehya,' which answers to the Iinglish ' Ciood-morning,' and means about as much. These Chilkotins wer(.' coming into the town to a fair, and we found bl'KAK IIV.M) DOWN rili': R AI'IDS AND AWAV 247 Ashcroft decked in her Sunday best. Mr. Foster the principal citizen, took charge of us. and tiirouc^h' his knulness we were able to leave by train tli^at night. After dinner ue -athered on the plat- form of the little station and talked. Ramsey and Round were ooino- out to the coast, whilst Pollen and I w. ,Id take the train east. There was so much to be said, that we said nothin^r. h did not seem possible that it was all over, and that henceforth Nve should be obhVed to sleep in houses and conform to the customs of civilisation bor months we had talked of Indians, bears, rapids, horses, weather, and the chances of food.' until we had made a world for ourselves. Now ue beo-an to realise that all this must 1,^0. and was of no account ; that no one would care about our topics of conversation, and that we should talk to ears that did not understand our meanim.. Then the train came in. and we separated without many words, and the expedition was over. And we returned to civilisation, and were bored or amused, as it mioht chance, and ate and lived as others do ; and at first it was novel, and we enjoyed it. Civilisation has many tliin<,rs to offer— comforts, knowledge, pleasures. -but when one has fc-It the' joy of the wilds, one knows what life is. and what it is to live. Cold and rain, hunger and storm, we !.l k t .' .1 248 TUK LAND OF Till-: MUSKEG had endured, and we knew that they were not pleasant ; but they pass, and this knowledge re- mains unchanged in the wilderness — That it is good to be alive and free. 1 ; I .i ' hi •| TUK END I, vi Printed by T. ami A. Consiaiue. Printers to Her Majesty at tile ICilinliiirgli Urnversity Press Cclcjianbic B^&l■c38, Suiilucks, l.oiiilun. il REU-ORI) SfKRET, W.C. Muixh iSgj A LIST OF Mr WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S ^i: P UBLICATIONS Th, fl, 'C-.j iiiciil'.nie,/ in 'his List enn bt ohiiuiu.i 10 iirilcr hy any Hook- itller if not in stixk, by thf f'ubiii/i, or Willie sent ey on >t<eift of tht fnKiihed pri^e anJ ('O.ta^t. \& 3n^c^: of But bore. II ! !.il|'!' , ! ' it '■■' I'ARR PAGF TAI-.V Alctanrlcr . 22 ' Grav (Maxwell) . 17 : Oliphant . |0 Anstey . 10 Gririlths . . 14 1 Onida 17 Arbuthnot : 4 Hall . . . 1 Atherton , . 14 ! I'alacio.Valdi's . 21 Hanin . 15! I'earce iS Badcieley . . S, 14 ' Harland . . '16, 24 U'TT"'* . 24 Rendered . 16 Balestier . • '^ fennell 9 Barrett 1^ 2T H.iu]>tn)ann . I-! Phelps 23 Battershall ^ ' ,1 Heine 7. S, Philips . 24 Kelirs _ Htnilerson . 24 1 l^inero . • i.i r.endall . ,. Hens-^ev . 20, 21 !l ";'','-■"■■ : 7 1 I'ngh IC Bjijriison . Bovven , . Boyesen . Briscoe Brown • '^ , . , ,, , Hdiilsworlh \ g Howard . ,^ . H ughes . \ ,2 Hun.;crford to . 11 ' . J5 ' iS, ... ' Kaunond . Kawnsley . • Kenthrandt • Kenan Richter . Kiddell . '9 12 4 9 Brown and Griffit is'. 14 i Hyne . u; 10 23 Buchanan. 9, 13,23.24' jbsen • '3! Ki'.'es Butler ■ '' j Ingersoll . . 12' Koberts (\. von) 21 Irving , , • '3 Roberts (C. G. D.) U Caine (Hall, 12, 17, 22 Robinson . if) Caine(K.). . 14 J.eger • 7I Salritsburv Cambridge ■ 22 ,. 5 Chester . . 10 ■ ^t-'i-y 1 1 Salaman (J. S.) ') Clarke . . j^ KeelniL; • '7 Salanian { NL C.) 10 Coltnore . 2-^ K'-nnedy , • 2,1 .Sareey 7 Colomb (J Kiinb.di • • 'Jl Scidniore . 12 Compayre ^- Kij)ling . 18 ScuiJarnore Serao 1) Copp<?e . 10 21 Couperns . 21 Kras/e\vski . 21 Sergeant . 2.! Crack-nnthorpe . 24 Kroeker . . '4 Sl..el . Mevenson, • '7 17 Davidson . ,j l.jiidor • 5 Street 24 Dawson [ ,^ Le Canm . • l\ T.idcma . Tallentyre • De Goncoiirt . g L'.e (Vernon) . iS' '9 De Joinville (3 I.eland . 8! . 10 De Quincey .* 8 '■i'^ • . 21 '^.l^lna . . Thompson ?2 Dixon . • ,- I.inton . I'' 12 Dowson ; ,; Locke . • "7 'Thurston . 'Tuelnick . M . Uowe 7, 9 Id Eeden ,, 1 Lowry . 24 Tolstoy . 7, 10, 1 3. 21 Ellwanper. I, , Lynch . .22 1 ree . • j 'rnrgenev . • '3 Ely . . . • 9 Ma.^rtens . . 20 • f 3 1 Valera . Macnab . " Maeterlinck ■ \l .Malot . • " .Masv.n . • 9 .Maude . ; ^^ Man,.a..ant Maiinre . ^ .Merrun.in . • 3 .Mi^^^h^-l . . 21 Farrar Fitch FleminR . Forbes * • FolherRill . Franzos Frederic . : : ;'3 vazoff . . • "■' Wagner . 6 W^ili^zewski • 9 Wanl • 21 W.mlen . • " Waugh . . 21 • 9 6 • 23 ■ 24 . 8 Furtwangler . • * I '-> - - - • 4 W i-uemeyer West . 12 • '5 Milford . 22 Whistler . II Garmo • '5 Monk . 1 1 ) Whue • 23 12 Garner • 91 .Moore • '7 Whitman . Gaulot 7 Murray • 9 W.lli.iins . 1 1 Gilchrist . . 18! _ Wood . iB GontcharolT . 21 Nordau , 5 Gore 14 ' Norris . It ZangwiU . 10, 6, i3 Gosse . 10, 1 3. "4. ">, Zola . I, 24 Grand . 17 1 Ogilvie . ■ <3 Z Z. . . . 16 I: ^ ■ M I ■MM ■■■■ ^^^- ^VILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST. • MASTERPIECES OF GREEK SCULPTURE. A SERIES OF ESSAYS ON THE HISTORY OF ART. BY ADOLF FURTWANGLER. Authorised Transhition. Edited by EuGf:NiE Sf.„t.f.rs. With 19 full -page an.l 200 text Illustrations.. In One Volume. 4to, cloth, £^ 3s. net. •«• Also an Mi/!o„ dr luxe nn Japanese vrlhim, limited to w numbered copies. In Two Volume., price ^,0 ros. net. The Tr/HES.-"ln very m.nny w.ivs the tr.inslaiion is an im- provement o„ the original. We sincerelv hope it will be read by English students in the Universities and elsewhere." ^ nrlJ^'l"^^-,-'"''*^^^''^,^^'^^^^^— "Not alo,e students of archeology, but art.sts, and collectors of choice books will revel hi this sumptuous volume. The fine series of masterpieces of Greek tn'^lurZJ'"'^ faultlessly reproduced is unequaired, whether In The^l I'trT"'^"""" r '" P"^^,*^""" "f 'he mechanical process. Ihe Illustrations .are, almost without exception, photographically cS ",n? ^'T ""; ^'"'"f themselves (^uher' [he origma o^ casts), and we thus obtain the maximum of exact fidelity. .'! ^"' "^|s is much more than a hook of beautiful picture •: it is a critical study ,>f the chief schools of Greek sculpture- in its highest development by a scholar of acknowledged authority. No more suggestive or. to students, fascinating essays on Greek art have appeared for m..ny years ; nothing so comprehensive and at ?he saine time so stnctly./f../.Whas been achieved since the days of SoM'r"'°-r' '""'! ^^- ^- ^'""'^^' though it is obvious ^that ^ nn nn f ■"^' '""•""? °^ "^*^ '^''^ l^ut^ver-to-be lamented Urunn no such minute critical study would have been possible. ori'Ii^n^nfr ^"^''' "!,'''•''" '%'"'^^«'-y ^^^y a real improvement upon the original German edition of a year or two as^^o. She has rea rai,ge<l the materials, and thus achiced a lucidity and continuity of ar -u- which were much less conspicuous in the German." The DAILY CHRONICLE.-" Th, fame of these masterly essays has grown in Germany since their first appearance to such I point that even m that country of learned rivalries they are admitted to be a paramount authority in their own sphere." .! \\'\i V'u 'I I- 4 MR. WILLIAM IIEINEMANN'S LIST. REMBRANDT: SEVENTEEN OF HIS MASTERPIECES FROM THE COLLECTION OF HIS PICTURES IN THE CASSEL GALLERY. Reproduced in Photogravure by tlie Ficrlin Photographic Company. With an Kssav By FREDERICK WEDMORE. In large portfolio 27J inches x 20 inches. Thf first Hvrnty-fiir imfirrssinn^ of each f>httf are numhere/t a»/f st'iptftf, %nd of these nn/y fourteen are/or sale in Eiigl.inii at the net f>rice of Twenty Guineas the set. The frice of the impressions after the first tmenty-fiTe it Twelve CiiiincTi net, fer set. The TIMES. — " The renderings have been made with extreme care, and, iinnted as they nre upon peculiarly soft Japanese paper, they recall in a remarkable way tlie richness and beauty of the originals." REMBRANDT: HIS LIFE, HIS WORK, AND HIS TIME. BY EMILE MICHEL, MPMBEK OF THE INSTITUTP. OF FRASCB. TRANSLATED BY FLORENCE SIMMONDS. EDITED AND PREFACED BY FREDERICK WEDMORE, A re issiio in 16 Monthly Parts, price as. 6d. net, per Part. %• A few copi.s of the FiwsT Edition are slill on sale, price /'a at. net ; also of the liDiru'N dk l.UXE (printed on Japanese vellum with India proof duplicates of the pliotogravures), price ;^I2 I2J. net. The TIMES. — "This very sumptuous and beautiful book has long been exuccted by all students of Rembrandt, for M, Knule Michel, the chief French authority on the Dutch School of Paint- ing, has been known to lie engaged upon it for many years Merely to look through the repmductions in M. Michel's 000k is enough to explain the passionate eagerness with which modern collectors carry on their sea' ch after Rembrandt's drawings, and the great prices which are paid for them." MR. WILLIAM HEINEMANN-S LIST. COREA, OR CHO-SEN, THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM. By a. henry SAVAGE-LANDOR. Willi 38 Illustrations from Drawings by the Author, and a Portrait. Demy 8vo, i8s. 7Ai Realm. — "Mr. Lander's book .... is of extreme value, for he has used his eyes, his pen, and his brush to picture scenes and natural characterisiics, which in all probability will be va,>tly modified by the events of the immediate years." The Alorniiir Post.— '' The book contains a great deal of matter which is entirely new, and cannot fail to attract considerable aitun- tion at the present time, when so little is known about Corea and the Coreans." CORRECTED IMPRESSIONS. ESSAYS ON VICTORIAN WRITERS. By GEORGE SAINTSBURY. Crown 8vo, gilt top, 7s. 6d. The Times. — " He knows that in thirty years the general opinion has had time to clarify itself and to assimilate itself more or less to the more instructed opinion of the wise and the select From this point of view there is not a little to be said for Mr. Saintabury's method; his application of it is .... instructive." DEGENERATION. By max NORDAU. Translated from the Second Edition of the German work. In One Volume, demy 8vo, 17s. net. The Standard. — " A most suggestive, a most learned, and (may we add?) a most entertaming volume." The Daily Chronicle. — "A powerful, trenchant, savage .T.tack on all the leading literary and artistic idols of the time by a man of great intellectual power, immense range of knowledge, and the possessor of a lucid style This remarkable and stirring. book, which is sure to be vehemently attacked, but which cannot be ignored." A 2 t! ( I' iU li ' ♦ t| t, , MR. WILLIAM IIEINEMANN'S LIST. 1?eccnt publicatfond. MY PARIS NOTE-BOOK. By the Author of " An English- nun in Paris." In One Volume, demy 8vo. Price 141. The Daily Ttltsratk.—" One of those excepti. rally deliehirul books th« Banifold fa>cin:itioiis of \thlch it is difTiciilt to exemplify by qiiutati' n." Calignani't Messenger. — "Want of spare frbids us to make further quotations fioni the good things ia which the book abounds." EDMUND AND JULES DE GONCOURT. Letters ami Leaves from their Journals. Selected. In Two Volumes, 8vo. With Eight Portraits, 33s, The Realm.— ^'\\ Is impossible to indirate the immense variety of enter> taining and often pro'oiiiiclly inicresiin;; mailer winch these volumes cnntain," MEMOIRS (VIEUX SOUVENIRS) OF THE PRINCE DE JOINVH.LE. Translated from the French by Lady Mary I.ovd, With 78 Illustrations from drawings by the Author. In One Volume, demy 8vo, 15s. net. The Times. — "'I'hey are written in the breezy style of a sailor." The St James's Gazette.— ^''\V\s is one of the most entertainin;; volumes of memoirs that have appeared wiiliin recent jcars." The Gleugow Herald. — " A very storehouse of anecdotes and incidents th.it carry the reader along, and have all the charm of a brijjht and sparkling con- I I, ^ \ i , 1. n 11 1 /|| IE- ' ; ^. \ X ': i \ ' ■'! mi 1 ■ i W '■' > ii \ ,4 NAPOLEON AND THE FAIR SEX. (Napoleon et les Femmes). From the French of Fri^.d^ric Masson. In One Volum;, demy 8vo. With Ten Portraits, 15-. net. Tht Daily Chronicle.—" The author shows that this side of Napoleon's life must be understood by those who would realize the manner of man he w.is." THE STORY OF A THRONE. C; therine II. of Russi.n, From the French of K. Wai.iszewski, Author of "The Rjmincc of an Empress." With a Portrait. In Two Volumes, demy 8vo, j3>. Tht IVorld. — "No novel that ever was written could compete with this kistorical monograph in absorbing interest." THE ROMANCE OF AN EMPRESS. Catherine II. of Russia. By K. Waliszewski. Translated from the French. Second Edition. In One Volume, 8vo. With Portrait. Price 7*. 6ti. Tht Timts.—" This book is based on the confessions of the Empress hcr- letf; it gives striking pictures of the condition of the contemporary Russia which she did so much to mould as well as to expand. . . . Few stories in history are more romantic than that of Catherine II. of Russia, with its ■lysterious incidents and thrilling episodes ; few characters present more curious proUenu." MR. WILLIAM IlEJNEMANN'S LIST. A FRIEND OF THE QUEEN. Marie Antoinette and Count Fersen. By Paul Gaulot. Translated from the French by Mr.. Cashel Hokv. In Two Volumes, 8vo. With Two Portraits. Price nt. .r.,r,TJ!i \'""''7'^ ^'^ Gaul-'s work tells, with new and authentic details, the .Tr.Th ?^°^,^°u""' f^5r<'"'J«voti(.n to Marie Antoinette, of his share n t unffpTgu^eef ■'s'l.f:.-'^"^'-""" ""^ "" -"V o'"" well-known epis.les of ALEXANDER III. OF RUSSIA. By Chari.es Lowe, M.A., Author of "Prince K.smarcic : an Historical Biography." Crown 8vo, with Portrait in Photogr.ivure, 6f. Tht Athemrum.—"KmK,i\. interesting and valuable volume." J he Acadtmy.— Wruten with great care and strict impartiality." PRINCE BISMARCK. An Historical Biography. By Charles Lowe, M.A. With Portraits. Crown 8vo, 6t. VILLIERS DE L'ISLE ADAM: His Life aiul Works. From the French of Vicomte Robkkt ini Pontavick t)E Hkusskv By Lady Mary Loy^. With Portrait and Facsimile. Crown 8vo. cloth lox. (ni. ' THE LIFE OF HENRIK IBSEN. By Henrik J.i;(;kk. Translated by Clara Be- l. With the Verse done into English from the Norwegian Original by Eu.mund Gosse. Crown 8vo, cloth, 6i. RECOLLECTIONS OF MIDDLE LIFE. By Francisque Sakcev. Translated by E. L. Carey. In One Volume, 8vo. With Portrait, tos td. TWENTY-FIVE YEARS IN THE SECRET SERVICE. The Reco'lections of a Spy. By Major Hknri le Caron. With New Preface. 8vo, boards, price 2s. 6d., or cloth, 3.r. td. •,* Tht Library Edition, with Portraits ami Facsimiles, Zvo. ils. is s'ill OH sale. T t - THE FAMILY LIFE OF HEINRICH HEINE. Illus- trated by one hundred and twenty-two hitherto unpublished letters ad- dressed by him to different members of his family. Edited by his nephew Baron Luuwig vcs Emdue.s, and translated by Charles Godfkev Leland. In One Volume, 8vo, with 4 Portraits. \is. 6d. RECOLLECTIONS OF COUNT LEO TOLSTOY. Together with a Letter to the Women of France on the " Kreutzer Sonata." By C. A. Behk-;. Translated from the Russian by C. E. Turner, English Lecturer in the University of St. Petersburg. In One Volume, 8vo. With Portrait. 101. 6rf. QUEEN JOANNA I. OF NAPLES, SICILY, AND JERUSALEM; Countess of Provence, Forcalquier, and Piedmont. An Essay on her Times. By St. Clair Baddeley. Imperial 8vo. With Numerous Illustrations. i6f. MR. WILLIAM IIEINEMANN'S LIST. f \tt I I 1/il n CHARLES III. OF NAPLES AND URBAN VL; also CECCO DASCOLI, Poet, Astrologer, Physican. Two Historical Kssays. Hy St. Ci.aik Hadhei hy. With Illustrations, 8vo, cloth, loj. &/. DE QUINCEY MEMORIALS. Bein;.,' Letters and other Records here first Published, with Communications from CoLKRiixiK, The WoKDSwoRTiis, Hannah More, ProfkssorWm son, .nnd others. Kdited with Introduction, Notes, and Narrative, by Alkxander H. Japp, LL.U., F.R.S.E. In two volumes, demy 8vo, cloth, with Portraits, 301. net. MEMOIRS. By Charles Godfrey Lei.and (Hans Bkkit- mann). Second Edition. In One Volume, 8vo. With Portrait. Price Ts. 6d, ALFRED, LORD TENNYSON. A Study of His Life and Work. liy AiniiUK Waugh, li.A. Oxon. With Twenty Illustrations from Phoio.^raphs specially taken for this Work. Five Portraits, and F.icsimile of Tennyson's MS. Crown Bvo, cloth, gilt edges, or uncut, 6s. THE PROSE WORKS OF HEINRICH HEINE. Translated by Chaki.es Godfrey Leland, M.A., F.R.L.S. (Hans Bkeitmann). In Eight Volumes. The Library F.dition, in crown 8vo, cloth, at 5X. per volume. £ach volume of this edition is sold separately. The Cabinet Edition, in special binding, boxed, price £3 lot. the set. The Large Paper Edition, limited to too Numbered Copies, price 15J. per volume net, will only be supplied to subscribers for the Complete Work. L FLORENTINE NIGHTS, SCIINABELEWOPSKI, THE KABHI of BACHARACH, and SHAKE- SPEARE'S MAIDENS AND WOMEN. II., III. PICTURES OF TRAVEL. 1823 -1828. IV. THE SALON. Letters on Art, Music, Popular Life. and Politics. v., VI. GERMANY. VIL, VIII. FRENCH AFFAIRS. Letters from Paris 1832, and Liitetia. THE POSTHUMOUS WORKS OF THOMAS DE QUINCEY. Edited with Introduction and Notes from the Author's Original MSS., by Alexander H. Japp, LL.D, F.R.S.E., &c. Crown 8vo, cloth, 61. each. I. SUSPIRIA DE PROFUNDIS. With other E8.says. II. CONVERSATION AND COLERIDGE. With other Essays. 1 i i MR. WILLIAM HEINliMAMN'S LIST. 9 A COMMENTARY ON THE WORKS OF HENRIK IliSEN, Hv ifjALMAK HloKTH UoYKSKN, Aiilhor of "Cuellic ami Schiller," " Eisuys on Geriiiaii Literuiurc," &j. Crown 8vo, cloili, 71. (ki. net, THE JEW AT HOME. Iiii])ressions of a Summer and Aiitimiii Spent with Him in Austria and RuN-ia. By JosKPH PttNNELL. With lUustrations by the Auilior. 410, cloth, ji. THE NEW EXODUS. A Study of Israel in Russia. By Hakolu Fi-BUEKic. Demy 8vo, Illustrated, i6s. THE GREAT W AR OF 189-. A Forecast. By Rear- Admiral Colomb. Col. MAUKrCK, R.A., Captain Maidk, Archiiiai.o Forbes, Ciiaki.ks Lowic, IJ. Chuisiik Mukkav, and F. Sciuamokk, In One Volume, large 8vo. With numerous Illustrations, its. 6J. THE COMING TERROR. And other Essays .tnd Letters. 13y KOBKKT 13UCHANAN. Second Edition. Demy 8vo, cloth, lai. 6J. STUDIES OF RELIGIOUS HISTORY. By Eknicst kiiNAN, late of the Flench Academy. In One Volume, 8vo, js. id. THE ARBITRATOR'S MANUAL. Under the London Ch.amber of Arbitration. BeiiiK a Praclfcal TnMtise on the Power and Duties of an Arbitrator, with the Rules ami Prdcedure of the Court of Arbitration, and the Forms. By Josici H Seymouk Salaman, Author of " Trade Marks," &c. Fcap. Bvo, is. td. MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND OBSERVANCES : Their Origin and Significaiit 1. By Lbofold Wagner. Crown 8vo, fs. ARABIC AUTHORS: A Manual of Arabian History and Literature. By F. F. ARaUTiiNOT, M.R.A.S., Author of " Early Ideas," " Persian Portraits," &c. 8vo, cloth, jt. THE LABOUR MOVEMENT IN AMERICA. By Richard T. Elv, Ph.D., Associate in Political Economy, Jolius Hopkins University. Crown 8vo, cloth, 51. THE SPEECH OF MONKEYS. Gaknek. Crown Bvo, ^s. 6ii. By Professor R. L. THE PASSION PLAY AT OBERAMMERGAU, 1890. By F. W. Farrar, D.D., F.R.S., Archdeacon and Canon of Westminster, &c. &c. 4to, cloth, as. (xi. 10 MR. WILLIAM IIEINEMANN'S LIST. THE WORD OF THE LORD UPON THE WATERS Sermons read by His linparial Majesty the F.mpernr of Germa .y, while at Sea on his Voyaijes to the U^mi of the Midnight Sun. Composed by Dr. KiciiTKK, Army Chaplain, and Translated from the German by John R. McIlkaitii. 4to, cloth, 7t. M. I? ' t ( } 1 1 1 1 1 ;, '■i ■ ii y, THE KINGDOM OF GOD IS WITHIN YOU. Chrl»tianity not as a Mystic Rcll«iou but as a N«w Theory of Life. Ily Count I.bo Toi.siov. Translated from the Russian by Consfanck (jAKNKTT. Library Kdiiion, in two V'llumes, crown 8vo, loi. Also a I'opiilir K.dition in One Volume, cloth, 7t, 6J. MR. PUNCH'S POCKET IBSEN. A Collection of some of the Master's best known Dramas, condensed, revised, and slightly re- arranged for the bcncfii of the Earnest Student. Dy K. Anstev, Author of " Vice Versa," " Voces I'opuli," &c. With Illustrations, reproduced by perraission, from /'»nc/i, and a new Fronti »piece, by Bernard Part- ridge. i6mo, cloth, 3r. 6</. FROM WISDOM COURT. 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MANDEVILLE'S HUSBAND. •"This very clever and terse By C. E. nndnuM^dly't'Trtist"'of7r7at''rower""'H"" T\ ' ' •. ^'^^ '^-'^<'"<1 '' distinctive ^raciousness and?,„"rj;°:":.., "^M".'^.'"'" "?Jf"tands women's type appr 'tru*;,de;:;'aL".t.-"' ""«-^-— - few women of the advanced The Pal! Mall.-" Clever, biting, and irresistible." OF ICARUS. By Laorence Alma THE WINGS Tadema, of modern fiction than the -^^^-S/of^ M^ TaTb^^ THE GREEN CARNATION. By R. S. Hichens ch.,rac.er sketches are admirable and1,repro";tr;dV';w;^^^^^^ ">' fhe Obsener.-" The book is a classic of its kind." AN ALTAR OF EARTH. Ry Thymol Monk. The Steaker.-" It is not merely clever, b»t pathetic and natural." A STREET IN SUBURBIA. By E. W. Pugh. THE NEW MOON. By C. E. Raimond. Other Volumes to/oUo^u. 20 MR. WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST. UillFORAI EDIIION OF THE NOVELS OF BJORNSTJERNE BJORNSON. Edited by Edmund Gosse. Fcap. 8vo, cloth, 33, net each volume. Vol. I.— SYNNOV^ SOLBAKKEN. 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From the Russian of Count LkoTolstov. w »*. r rom me FANTASY. From the Italian of Matilde Serao. ^^°v^a";:.s. '''■°"' "^^ ''^''""'^'' °^ ^^°» Armando Palaco- FOOTSTEPS OF FATE. CourKKus. PEPITA JIMENEZ. F:om the Sp.anish of Tt;AN Vai.kra. THE COMMODORE'S DAUGHTERS. From the Nor- wegi.an uf Jonas Lie. *- ^^""^ THE HERITAGE OF THE KURTS Fr^.^ ti ^ v ofHjoRNSTjEKNElv.KNsoN '^ ^ « ^S. From the NnrweR.an LOU. From the German of Rakon Ai.exandfr von Roberts. DONA LUZ. From the .Spanish of Juan Valkra. THE JEW. From the Polish uf Joseph Ignatius Kraszevvski. UNDER THE YOKE. From the Ih.lgari.an of Ivan Vazoff! FAREWELL LOVE ! From the It.alian of Matilpe Serao. '^'^\^.lt^J^S^^- ^^""^ ^^^ •^I-"-'^ °f Don ARMANDO A COMMON STORY. From the Russian of Gontcharoff. hi fre/'aration. NIOBE. From the Norwegi.in of Jonas Lik, From the Dutch of Louis 39 MR. WILLIAM HEINEMANN'S LIST. ' J Ipopular 3s. 0&. movcls. CAPT'N DAVY'S HONEYMOON, The Blind Mother, ami The Last Coiifcssioii. l!y Hall Caink, Author of " The Uondman," "The Scapegoat," &c. Sixth Thousand. A MARKED MAN: Some Episodes in his Life. By Ada Camiihidok, Author of "A Little Minx," "The Three Miss Kings," " Nut All m Vain," &c. THE THREE MISS KINGS. By Ada Cambridob. A LITTLE MINX. Hy Ada CAMnRlDOB. NOT ALL IN VAIN. By Ada Camhkidoe. A KNIGHT OF THE WHITE FEATHER, By Tasma, Author of " I'lu- F'enance of I'orlia Janics," " lliirl.: Piper of Piper's llill,"&c. UNCLE PIPER OF PIPER'S HILL. By TAsvfA, THE PENANCE OF PORTIA JAMES. By Tasma. THE COPPERHEAD ; and other Stories of the North iliirinK the American War, liy Hak>li) I''khi)KRIC, Author of " The Return of the O Mahony," " In the V.illey," Sic. THE RSTURN OF THE O'MAHONY. By Harold FuKiiEKic, Author of " In the Valley," &c. With Illustrations. IN THE VALLEY. By Harold Frkdrric, Author of "The L.iwton dirl,' " Seth's lirothcr's Wife," Stc, With Illustrations. THE SURRENDER OF MARGARET BELLARMINE. By Adki.ine Sfrgkant, Author of "The Story of a Penitent Soul." THE STORY OF A PENITENT SOUL. Being the Private Papers of Mr. Stephen Dart, late Minister at Lynnbridge, in the County of Lincoln. Hy Adki.ine Sekorant, Author of " No Saint," &c. NOR WIFE, NOR MAID. By Mrs. Hunoerford, Author of" Molly Hawn," iScc. THE HOYDEN. By Mrs. HONGERFORD. MAMMON. A Novel. By Mrs. Ai.e.xander, Author of "The Wooing O't," &c. DAUGHTERS OF MEN. By Hannah Lynch, Author of "The Prince of the Glades," &c. AROMANCEOFTHECAPE FRONTIER. By Bertram MiTFORU, Author of "Through the Zulu Country," &c. •TWEEN SNOW AND FIRE. A Tale of the Kafir War of 1877. By Bektram Mitkord. ORIOLE'S DAUGHTER, By Jessie Fothkrgill, Author of "The First Violin," &c. 1. wmanmsz J^IR. \VILUAM IIEINEMANN'S L/ST. 23 THE MASTER OF THE MAGICIANS. Hy E, .abkth THE HEAD OF THE FIRM n xt „ of t-eorReGcth."" Maxwell Drewett,"&c. -'^•"nor A CONSPIRACY OF SILENCP n n r. A DAUGHTER OF MUSIC. By 0. Co,.mok., Author of A Con.spir.-icy of Silence." junior ot ACCORDING TO ST lOHN u 1 / ^'"'i:;",,^^^"^^ % FK.^K ,UKH.rr, Author of 'The A<lm,rableL.n.lyHHUly Fane," &c. MR. BAILEY-MARTIN. By P.Rry Wh.tr. A QUESTION OF TASTE. By M.aktkv Maartens Amhor of "An Old M.-,id-s Love," &c. lAARTENS, COME LIVE WITH ME AND BE MY LOVE. By ^:z:r'''- """- ^ "■"- --"' --■■• '--conn!: DONALD MARCY. By Fu7xvr,u c A, .^ r...,., ^ '-i.i7.Ai,EiH Stuart Phplp'; Anthorof "The Gates Apr," S:c. "«KLIS, IN THE DWELLINGS OF SILENCE. ofRns.sia. By Walkbr Kennkdv. LOS CERRITOS iERTRUDE Franki * What Dream.s may Come. A R omance r ^ Roin.incc- of the .Modem Time R» 0™oE FRA...,. A.,..R.,..., ,,,„, ,..„^^^^^ 3J™-. . 2 MU. WILLIAM IIEINEMANN'S LIST. ' lit Sboct Stoitca in One Uolunie, Three Sliilliji),'» unil Six|>c-iice cacli. EPISODES. Ijy U. S. Strekt, Auilior of " The Autobioj^raphy of ii Itoy." WRECKAGE, and other Stories. By IUmskri Ckackan- 'IIKIKI'K. SuCdlld lulitloll. MADEMOISELLE MISS, and other Stories, lly Hknkv II AMI. AND, Aiitlior of " Mca Culpa," Sec. THE ATTACK ON THE MILL, and other Sketches ol War. liy I. mi if. Zola. Wilh an l.-isiiy on ihc short sloiies of M. ZuU by lulniiiiul Ciossc. THE AVERAGE WOMAN. Uy Woi-con Balestikr. Willi an liurodiK lion liy IIknkv James. BLESSED ARE THE POOR 15y 1'Kan(.'OIS COPifiE. Wilh an Introiliiclioii by T. H. O'Connok. PERCHANCE TO DREAM, ami other Stories. By Mar- (iAKBr S. Uid^coi:. WRECKERS AND METHODISTS. Cornish Stories. By H. 1). LuWKV. populai Sbilliiio JBooIis. PRETTY MISS SMITH. l)y Fi.okence Warden, Author of "J'lie House on llic M.irsh," "A Witch of the Hills," &c. MADAME VALERIE. By F. C. riiii.iis, Author of "As in a Looiiiny-Gl.iss," Siz THE MOMENT A.^TER: A Tale of the Unseen. By RoDKR-r liUCllANAN. CLUES; or, Leaves from a Chief Constable's Note-Book, By WiLLlA.M Hti.NUKKSON, Chief Coiisi.ii.le of Edinburgh. ' i THE NORTH AMERICAN REVIEW. Edited by Lloyd Uryce. Published monthly. Price 2s. Cd. THE NEW REVIEW. Edited by \V. E. Henley. Publiahed MonM'ly, price 15. LOMJON: WILLIAM II !•: I N E M A N N, 21 liliUi'OKb blKEliT. W.C. HI sr. lie. Vutl)i)i,)M„J,|,y " C'kackan- ^h' IIknry -r Sketches ' stones of AI. I^ALESTIKR. 5IS Coi'lflE. ■ % Mar- Stories. By K?*, Author ur of "As nseen. By ote-Book, tHW.