^ - IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) A ^/ # ^ ^ % « 1.0 ^Ui Ki S Bi 12.2 1.1 lit Its U 140 |Z0 1^ 11^4 J .^ ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STMIT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) •72-4503 \ 4^ <^ ■<» ,^ « ? CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductlons / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiq ues Technical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notot tachniquaa at bibliographiquaa Th to Tha Instituta has attamptad to obtain tha bast original copy availabia for filming. Featuras of this copy which may ba bibliographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagas in tha raproduction. or which may significantly changa tha usual mathod of filming, ara chackad balow. D D D D D D Colourad covars/ Couvartura da coulaur I I Covars dumagad/ Couvartura andommagte Covars restorad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura rastaurte at/ou pallicul4a I I Covar titia missing/ La titra da couvartura manqua Colourad maps/ Cartes g6ographiquas an coulaur Colourad inic (i.a. othar than blua or biaclc)/ Encra da coulaur (i.a. autra qua blaua ou noira) r~~1 Colourad plataa and/or illustrations/ Planches at/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autrea documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serrde peut cauaar da I'ombra ou de la distortion le long de la marge intArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches aJoutAea lore d'una restauration apparaiasant dans le texte, mais, lorsqua cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas M filmtes. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 4tA possible de re procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sort peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mAthode normale de filmage sont indiquds ci-dessous. n D D D D D Coloured pages/ Pagea da couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagAas Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurdas at/ou pellicultes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages ddcolortes, tachetAea ou piqutes Pages detached/ Pages ditachtes Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ Quality InAgala de I'impreaaion Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du material suppKmentaire Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been ref limed to ensure the best possible image/ Las pages totalament ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., bnt M filmtes A nouveau da fapon A obtenir la meilleure image possible. Th pa of fill Or be th si( ot fir si( or Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmantairaa; irregular pagination: [I]- XII, (I)- VIII, [13] • [280] p. Th sh Til wl Mi dif en bei rig re< m( This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmA au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 1 t >/ 12X 16X 20X 24X 28>: 32X ire details les du modifier ler una filmage to* The copy fiimed here has been reproduced thanlcs to the generosity of: National Library of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in iceeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated Impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or Illustrated Impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or Illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol -h^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. L'exempiaire filmA fut reproduit grflce A la gin^rositA de: Bibliothdque nationaie du Canada Les images suivantes ont 6t4 reproduites avec le plus grand soin. compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet« de l'exempiaire filmi. et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimte sont filmAs en commen9ant par ie premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'lllustration. soit par ie second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont fllmte en commengant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'lllustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboies suivants apparaitra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, seion le cas: le symbols — *• signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be fiimed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams Illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent 6tre fiimfo d des taux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque ie document est trop grand pour 6tre reproduit en un seul clichi, 11 est fiimA d partir de Tangle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iiiustrent la m^thode. errata J to B pelure, on A n 32X \ * t 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7)io Toth ♦•UBLIS UPPER CHASM 01< FALL RIVER. cr r u PEDESTRIAN (■•'■■j •li OF T^ro 2%0M5anrf 7%rec Hundred Mih^, IN NORTH AMERICA. ',< ■ Vj To Mc Lakes, — 7%e CanadaSy — And the New-England States. PERFORMED IN THE AUTUMN OF 1821. Embellished with Views. BY P. STAIVSBURY. NEW- YORK: I'UBLISHED AND SOLD BY J. D. MYERS & W. SMITH, NO. 59 FULTON STREET. 1822. ■:t.- *; H ^1 s T /? IV iT B '-/ ^f y P •' fev f 'i : .,'j [^ ii V » I A HTiF* 5o«tA«m Dittrict qfJYeuhYork^ S8» rC§\ "OE IT REMEMBERED, that on (he &ixth day of December i.^-^ j3in the forty-siith year of the Independence of the United States of America, J. D. Myen & W. Smith, of the said District, hare deposited in this oflice the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the wordi and figures following, to wit : •(A Pedestrian Tour of Two Thousand Three Hundred Miles, in "North America. To the Lakes,— The Canadas,— and the New* *' England States. Performed in the Autumn of 1821. Embellished " iritti Views. By P. Stansburv." In conformity to the Act of the Congreu of die United States, en> titled ** An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and boMcs, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the time therein mentioned.** And also to an act, entitled ** An act, supplementary to an act, entitled an act for the encouragement of leaminr^ by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned, and eKtendin|; the benefits thereof to the arts uf dciigiiing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.** JAMES DILL. Clerk of fAs Southern District of JSTew-York* J\tycrt 4r Smith, Printers. 'if . ■•' t t* ri PRELIMINARY ADDRESS. ■M ' . 1 ', ?i _the in of act, the |arU, tiM arts The people of America have always borne in their character, a prominent warlike feature. Before ships of discovery had ever ventured across the Atlantic, the savage tribes had been fighting their battles in routine, and (.very Indian carried his war-club, his rude bow and flint-headed arrows ready for combat. The battles, skirmishes and bloodshed of every des- cription, which took place when the country be- gan to be colonised, are too many to be reckon- ed. Spaniards, French and English, with the savages, either as their allies, or as their enemies, were prostrated in death together. The colonies protected the lands which they had siezed or ac- quired, with their arms, and silenced the demands of the old possesors, with their swords and mus- kets. And at this day, in North America, where the natives are not so completely subjected as in South America, wars and murders are constantly progressing. Armed troops were the first to penetrate the forests and desart wilds of this country, in pur- suit of some remote fortress, or upon some haz- ardeus expedition, traversed and explored exten- sive tracts, which till then were entirely unknown< ' i ; H i1 '. i.i t •■ U" \i ■ Tf IV PRELIMINARY ADDRK8S. In an attempt of this kind it was, that Brad- dock lost his life, as he marched through an unknown wood, in the expedition against Fort du Quesne ; and Arnold, like the leader of the Israelites in the wilderness, conducted his men many hundred miles over dismal swamps and barren mountains, to the attack upon Quebec. Discoveries are now made, not by soli- tary travellers trudging as in other countries, with their horses, instruments, and papers, for their companions; but by Officers at the head of their troops, sent by government to ex- plore the riches of their acquired territories. Such are the travels which excite the interest, and particularly attract the attention of the public. Who ever undertakes a journey in North Ame- rica, especially in the more northern latitudes, must pass over ground, rendered ever memorable for many important battles. The conquest of Canada in 1759, its invasion during the revolu- tionary struggle, and the numerous incursions against that country in the late American war, have been the occasion of very fierce engagements on all the frontier line from Detroit to Quebec ; and have caused the erection of fortresses at every important post in that direction. The wars with the Indians in the New England States, the patriotic exertions for independence in Massachusetts, and the disasterous expedition of General Burgoyne at Saratoga in New-York, have also laid the scene of memorable actioni^ at The VR£LIM1MARY ADDRESS. . tf Most of these battle-grounds will be traversed, and every American who loves his country, will view them with interest, and either glory in the successes of his countrymen, or feel for the mis- fortunes, which none but the worst of circum- stances could have adduced. The desire of visit- ing them, not only to A mericans, but to foreigners also, is one incentive for undertaking what is sometimes denominated, the Grand Northern Tour ; which embraces the Springs, the Lakes, the Canadas, and the New England States. ■ A Tour of this kind does not indeed ofter so many new and extraordinary sights, as a journey among the Indian nations in the central parts of our continent, where the mind is continually arrested by unusual scenes, and by the singular manners of the native inhabitants ; what is to be seen is strange, but there is much less to be spoken of, upon returning, than the northern rout alluded to, affords. In this w discover the man- ners of our citizens, and their improvements in arts, learning, and agriculture. Reports con- cerning the great beauty of the country, and vast increase of the population, which we may have deemed inconsistent, will be found to be true. The greatest cataracts in the world, will gratify our curiosity in some parts of the journey, and we shall enjoy, in a certain degree, the pleasure of a western expedition, by passing through the lands of sereral tribes of Indians. One advantage par- tknilatij resulting from such a Tour, is visiting a countiyy differing verylittle from one in Europe, 1* ^ H h i. A m . ii[ VI PUELIMINARY ADOR£ftS. J ■\ and becoming, by Ibat means, acquainted witli tlie opinions, which its inhabitants the French and English Canadians entertain towards the Unitetl States, and thus be enabled to contrast the de- fects of that subjected nation, with the excellen- cies of our republican form of government. Not only the wonderful operations of nature, her caverns, her mineral springs, her lofty pre- cipices, her deep gulfs, but the stupendous performances of man also, are here and there to be seen, equal if not superior to similar works so much extolled in the elder countries. These and many more, arc inducements, in addition to the sites of famous battles, which are certainly not to be considered as insignificant. It must be owned that accounts of travels' in Europe, are greedily perused, in preference to these in our own country. Yet the difference between them is very considerable ; the one is a dull monotomy of town after town, edifices, states- men, and literati ; the other, a constant and agree- able change from flourishing villages to gloomy desarts, from mountains to wide inland oceans, from wigwams to dashing water-falls, and then again to splendid cities and state-houses, with all their patriotic meetings, assemblies, and conventions. There is this difference in par- ticular, that the slightest error will be detected in the latter, whilst in the former, all the flowery additions, tinsel ornaments and absurdities, wiUi which foreign travellers frequently decorate their accounts, give additional entertainment; because f i t fRCLlMlNAUY AI>DR£S.S. S II ^-c see through a mist, antl cannot easily deter- mine, what is correct, and what is false or exaggeralcil. Long accustomed to pore over English roman- ces, which it must be confessed, arc in general, better written than our American novels, wo read with admiration the descriptions of places, which imagination has already dressed in so many beautiful colours. Yonder seems to be the land of heroes. We see kings, thrones, and iioblcmen : but America has no kings to boast of: it has only plain dressed governors. Treaties that have decided the fate of lords and princes, have been held in that place, and in other places, oppressed men who have spurned the yoke of tyranny, or assaulted the monarch's ears with blasphemous words, have yielded their lives' upon the scaifold. Here treaties have only been held with wild wandering savages, and those merely to settle the claims of states and territo- ries, not above three hundred miles square ; and as to beheading, hanging, and imprisoning, all we have is now and then a solitary example of a pirate, a mail robber, or some foreign rogue, who has emigrated here, and seeks for riches and notoriety. Here are no palaces, no dungeons, no monasteries, no relics, no chains, and no hobgoblins. Instead of castles we have only forts, and instead of thunderbolts, panic struck squires tfot^! lovers ; we have only tornadoes, and dis- BUiyed j^rmers, viewing their bams flying in the ttr* Such may be the reasoning of those people;, f ! 1 y Un H: ytit preliminahv address. i! [U who despise every thing their own country produces. To unprejudiced minds, travels in Europe, like European deeds, are in fact not half so in* teresting, as the same in their own country. Because their numberless historians have thrown over the slightest mattery of record, an appear- ance of dignity, and because poets and trage- dians have applauded to the skies, even the foU lies of their rulers ; their accounts like painted images, which look remarkably natural at a dis- tance, are upon close inspection found to be coarsely executed, and pass very readily in the remote districts which we inhabit, whilst pro- ductions of our own, are very frequently neg- lected. When the United States of America shall have stood for ages, and increasing as it does now, becomes one of the most powerful nationis of the globe; historians, poets, and orators, will speak of its smallest movements, in their most flowery language ; and then travels through the civilized parts of the states, may be thought more worthy the attention of its citizens, than they can pos- sibly be at the present day. The volume here obtruded into public notice, claims no advantages of diction. Its only ex- cellency if it has any, lies in the remarkable scene'', whicli it endeavours to describe. It is offered with a feeling of national pride, that our country can be travelled, and present at alnioBt every step, prospects of the grandest kind te greet the sight, and objects of nature and art. F tAELIMlNARY ADDRESS. ax art. lron<1erful and magnificent, to reward the toil of the adventurer. Although geology is a science of the first im- portance in America, more than in any other country ; and as such, deserves that attention from all classes of the community, and from the ruling authorities, which it actually docs receive ; yet, 1 acknowledge, little obser- vation has been given by me, to the physical structure of the land, over which I passed, and very little respecting that useful branch of know- ledge, will be found in the subsequent pages* Wkat geological notices are introduced, have arisen from transitory and perhaps mistaken views, and from a small portion of mineralogical iRformation, received under the erudite lectures of Dr. Mitchell of this city. In all that is said, I have considered the reader to be as unacquainted with the places and sub- jects mentioned, at myself, when 1 first < P. bTANSBURT. New'York, December 5th, 1821. I FAOM Palis: Passa Relig High High West Montj Shaws Nevei Vale< Alban Sittini FROM I Cahoe Stillwi *■ i ' # eontent0« PRELIMINARY ADDRESS* CHAPTER I. FROM NEW-YORK, BY A CIRCUITOUS ROUTE, TO ALBANY < I Palisadoes on Hudson river Passaic river - - - Religious Meeting in the woods High Torn of Harvestraw Highlands of the Hudson West Point - - - Montgomery on the Wallkill Shawangunk (Sbongo) mountain Neversink - - - - Vale of Warsink Albany Sitting of the State Convention CHAPTER n. 13 1$ 17 18 21 sa «7 27 28 30 32 FROM ALBANY, THROUGH SARATOGA AND BALLSTON SPA, TO UTICA. Cahoes of the Mohawk - - - 34 Stillwater ------ 35 ^BATTLE OF BEEMIS* HEIGHTS Slwajred fortifications . . - - 37 2t j ^. < * 11 .► CONTENTS. Burgoyne's approach ^ - - ^- ""- ^37 Massacre of Miss M'Crea - - - - 40 LadyAckland ..... 43 The house where Frazer died - - - 44 Saratoga - - - - - - . 45 Baroness Reidesell .... 45 Saratoga Springs - - • • - 48 Ballston Spa ..... 50 Schenectady ----- 53 Beautiful valley » » » - * 55 CAVERN OF CANAJOHARIE. Descent into the cavern - - - 57 Difficulty of the descent - . . Qo Numberof rooms or expansions - - 61 Q4oomy magnificence - - - - 61 Little-Falls - - - - - - 62 ^reat Western Canal - - - - 68 CHAPTER III. PROM VTICA TO TBE BEAD OF LAin CAITVG^. Appeai^nce of the Country - - - 65 Utica 66 Passage on the Great Canal . - - 67 Eitensive Swamps • « . - 69 Banks of Lake Cayugik^ - - - 72 Pleasant sail to Ithaca - - - - 7d FALLS OF ITHACA. ^ Surpnmfli^ beauty of the falls - - % jLeaps of Fall-River - - - - * '^ Tremendous crags • - - ^ '^ The Natu Cases Tottc Contc PBOM ; TheP Geneva Roches Higher Batmen Lower- Great B Indian ^ The gre Chasm View frj J^antastiJ Rapids Goat or Bottom JDifficuh Orcadfui TaUe CONTENTS. Ill I ;'■ 48 60 53 65 67 60 61 61 OS 65 66 67 69 n 73 The Cascadilla > Natural amphitheatre - Cascade of Goodwin's Point - Tottering cliffs . - - Contemplated college at Ithaca CHAPTER IV. 81 81 83 85 85 FBOM ITHACA, TO THE OEMESSEE, AND STRAIORTS OF NIAGARA. 1** The Parallel lakes .... 88 Geneva — Canandaigua - - - 90 THE GENESSEE. Rochester-ville - - - . - Higher-Falls cf the GsPt^SeG Bntments of the «* flying bridge." Lower-Falls ..... Great Ridge road .... Indian village on Lewiston mountain - The great Northern Slope • . . Chasm of Niagara - ... FALLS OF NIAGARA. Exaggerated accounts • m View from a distance - l^antastic forms of the spray ^,,^:.- Rapids above the falls ... Goat or Iris Island .... Bottom of the Falls .... DiiBcult entrance behind the Horseshoe-fall 109 Prcadful situation - - . . no Table rock ----- l^S ■ A- 91 99 93 94 j)4 96 100 101 108 104 105 106 106 107 i 'Pi ! t I It 1 t.^tHi''}-t..,^".ff i I ' II r ' ' \ i • XV CONTENTS. Prospect from Ontario hotel - « 113 The Whirlpool ----- 113 Black-Rock - - - - . 115 Grand council of Indians at Buifaloe - 116 Six Nations - . - . . 1)7 CHAPTER V. # UPPER CANADA. Fields of famous Battles - . . 120 Canadian bank of the Straights of Niagara 121 Queenston -----. 123 Newark and Fort George - - -. 125 FRONTIER BATTLES. Visit to the Heights of Queenston - liK7 Bloody battle of Queenston - - 130 Explosion of the magazine at York - 133 Capture of Fort George - - - 134 Newark reduced to ashes ... 136 American Frontier laid waste - - 137 Battle of Chippewa ... - 138 Great battle at Niagara Falls - - 139 Indian mode of warfare -p - • 142 Fort Niagara - - - - - 143 CHAPTER VI. ^ THROUGH UPPER CANADA, TO MONTREAL. ^^ Lake Ontario - . . . - Ml Passage to Kingston . - ^ - IW Lake of the Thousand Islands - - 11^ Opini Coun Lake Frenc Ottaw Caugl Genen Public Cathed Prospe FROM MO Passage History Descrip Operatic Engagei Death o Heights Walls oil Citadel Diamonc F Chai ivit> nish CONTENTS. 1^7 lao 133 134 136 137 138 139 142 143 146 148 Opinions of the Canadians - - 152 Country bail 156 Lake St. Francis .... 155 French Canadians - - - - 159 Ottawa or Grand River ... 16O Caughnawaga (Indian village) . - - 162 ^ , MONTREAL. General view of the city - - - 165 Public edifices - - - - - 166 Cathedral of Notre dame - - - 167 Prospect from the Mountain of Montreal 168 CHAPTER VIL FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, THE FALLS OF CHAUDIERE, AND MONTMORENCI. ; Passage down the St Lawrence - - 17C FORTRESS OF QUEBEC. History ------ 173 Description of the site of Quebec - - 176 Operations of General Wolfe - - 178 Engagement between the French & English 181 Death of Wolfe - - - - 182 Heights of Abraham - - - - 182 Walls of the City - . . . i85 Citadel - - - - - . iso Diamond rock - - - - - 188 FALLS OF MONTMORENCL $^|X!harles* river - - - - 189 ^iqlivity of Beauport ... igo mishing height and grandeur of the Falls ipl I : I.j i3' '<: u H I; i ^ I i .;. ■1 The inner cove - • - • - ige Death of Montgomery • . • ]9> Excursion to the Chaudiere - » 190 Singular beauty of the cataract • • 900 Catholic churches - - - * 308 CHAPTER VIII. ,^^ „ - » LOWER CANADA. Contemplated road to Boston « - f09 Desert ^voods --..•.• fi04 St. Lawrence and the great chain of Lakes 1K)4 First settlers of Canada ... 208 Present inhabitants - . . . 2OB Economy *««..• 30^ Industry . ^ . • . . 2IO Superstition and Ignorance - • 213 Deportment - - - • - 215 May-poles ----- 2IT Political condition - - . . 217 CANADA GENERA LL Y. Emigrants - - - • • 210 Timber trade ----- 290 Fur trade --.-.. 221 Smuggling 222 , : ^ CHAPTER IX. <. ROUTE FROM QUEBEC TO BOSTON. Rafts _ - J _ _ ^ - 9tf Sorel river ----- ili^ Basin of Chambly . - . - tS§> Great swamp - - . - - 230 RHui Contr Hiils Onion Oreen Montf Longc Wilds Dartmc Singula Shaking Concorc Stage ti Countei Political Witcbci Approac FAOM bos: Capital Excursic BA BHilish £0 l^lttrepi Sfecdnd '.I CONTBdfTft. t09 904 1K)4 208 SOS sod 210 213 215 217 Y19 890 221 222 29t 9pP~^ 9ao tt*.?^ VERMONT. R^urn into the United Statei Contrast ------ Htils of Vermont . . * - Onion River - - - - - €hneen Mountains . • • * Montpelier - - ^ - - Long declivities - -. - Wild scenery of Vermont - - - NEW-HAMPSHIRE. Dartmouth College . - - . Singular appearances in NM-Hampshire Shaking Quakers - - - . Concord • • ^ - Stage travelling . - . • Counterfeiting - - - - MASSACHUSETTS. Political standing of Massachusetts Witchcraft « • • • Approach to Boston • CHAPTER X. «r Til 939 233 234 236 236 237 239 941 242 244 245 247 248 950 ,i 950 951 254 FROM BOSTON, THROUGH THE STATE OF RBODE-ISLulirO, TO NEW-YOfUE« Capital of Massachusetts - .-^ « 956 Excursion to the heights of Charleston 257 BATTLE OF BUNKER'S HILL. Irilish forces in Boston ... 258 iMiirican forces . • - « 259 ^^ repulse , . . . . 2(^ ^cond repulse ... . 26i .i .i,i. t I 1 ^ ' r ( ■ :i) ■} 1 lit. ▼Ill CONTBITTS. Retreat from Charleston Road to Providence ... RHODE-ISLAND. Narraganset harbour Newport - - - - - New-England in general Approach to the City of New- York Conclusion .... 302 264 368 371 373 374 ' 1 1 M ; •■•<». t, ' ; ' • I- I. ENGRAVINGS. Upper Chasm of Fall-River 1 Scene in the Highlands/rom West Point, ... 24 Scene in the Valley of Canajoharie 55 Great or Lower Fall of Fall-River 76 fiutments of the Grenessee Bridge 94 Fort Niagara 143 , Falls of Montmorenci 193 .Falls of the Chaudiere .300 Basin and Fort of Chambly .32iB The 1 fiom N mencerr more th shore ol rliffs, ar 's precil northeri Cause-wj not the ^^lurnnal hexagoni four hi hundred river, of the cii Qi^abJj ii.I 1 !•' , 302 964 366 368 371 373 374 • •• * .. 34 ,. 65 .. 76 .. 94 ..143 ...ig3 ...300 ...33& • 4* CHAPTER 1. , >noM \i:w-vonK, by a circvitovs n^^ii ^«< ^ -' ,'*» * TO ALBANY. ^!i:r ;.«.>' )i^ 'Monday, August 20, 18i I. I** • t I 'It' m iitu . • • !. ■ •li, The rocky bluff above Wehawk (four mi\&i fi'om New- York) on the Hudson, is the com- mencement of the pallisado ridge, which extends more than thirty miles northward on the west shore of the river. The form of these upright cliffs, and the slope beneath them to the water, is precisely similar to the high shores of the northern coast of Ireland, adjoining the Giants' Cause-way ; the quality of the stone, however is not the same. It is a coarse basalt or trap, in columnar masses, some of which are regular hexagons. The general height of the ridge is four hundred feet. Here it is only one hundred and seventy-five* above the level of the river. From this place I took a farewell glance of the city of New- York. The afternoon was re- midrkably pleasant, and a beautiful prospect of the ' K* detenained by Captain ^tridge of Wmt-Point; . '^^^ « ^ 2 * '■ I f 1 M •Ml ^M' if •.I I : .'. I ."t u PEDEiirRIAN TOUH. 'liT ti-: I: river and opposite country, appeared from (his elevated and picturesque situation. De- sirous of visiting the place, where General Hamilton fell, I was conducted hy a lad, and descending a long path, rocky and dangerous, I approached the spot, over which, not only the death of Hamilton but of many others, who have been emulous of risking their lives at his tomb, has thrown a deep shade of solemnity. The boy pointed to a level space of ground \vhere the combatants had stood, and in his own manner, related the story of Price, the last duellist here, who was shot by an Eng- lish officer. The blood ran streaming from his head, covering the sand and stones with human gore, as he was carried on board of one of the numerous boats which crowded the beach. A number of spectators viewed this transaction, from the neighbouring rocks ; and a more horrible sight could not possibly have been imagined. The monument that was erected here to the memory of General Hamilton, is now taken to pieces by the proprietor of the soil, and conveyed to his house, under pretence of its having been too much resorted to, for purposes of duelling. Leaving this melancholly spot, a viper two feet in length, laid coiled in the path leading through the woods to BuU's-ferry, upon which I was just ready to tread before I perceived it. Snakes are very numerous in this pait of New-Jersey, The land here makes a gradual descent west- ward from the high banks of the Hudson, until It u whii Con thoi in 8 vene 1 an heavj a/)prc On the Pi iast w some] gon d out ai greatly growth! ties scj The n from a spacioi prietori The itself, i but the cant, es| scarcelj gained, two nan The rivi the falls I ^ilis for^ It, PEDESTRIAN TOUR. lb it unites With those extensive meadows through which the ITackensack river urges its course. Consiclc'ring cvenhig to be the most comfortable though the least instructive time for travelling in sultry weather, I proceeded as fur as the venerable Dutch village of Hackensack, where 1 arrived at ton o'clock, in time to escape a heavy thunder storm, which was then rapidly approaching. On my rout to Patterson, 1 found the bridge over the Passaic river, broken down by the floods of last winter, and I was upon the point of seeking some method of fording the stream, when a wag- gon drove up, which enabled me to cross with- out any difficulty. Patterson has increased greatly within a few years, and is of srotliers upon th< ^Od both ■i: hold- straw, way lies, I Ithin a lecting •om «i rived. Lot far [ehigh view* PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 17 There were fifty large and elegant tents, sonne of which might contain upwards of one hundred persons, ffr ji )i' 'i-: • The people were already convened to seats in the middle of the encampment, by the sound of trunfpets, from whence an excellent dis- course Avas delivered : after which they arose and adjourned to the tents. A friend offered to entertain me till next day, and I gladly ac- cepted his invitation. At noon, crowds were formed over different parts of the ground, and divine worship was con- ducted in them, with a degree of-unexampled piety. The utmost decorum was observed in all their proceedings. Some unusual actions of a religious nature did indeed transpire, which to some persons no doubt, seemed most unaccounta- ble and ridiculous. The consequence was a deal of shrugs and tittering from the most impolite, who had either forgot, or disregarded the solemnity of the place. The behaviour of this religious sect is most praise-worthy. Throwing otf the shackles of the world, they show the undisguised emana- tions of a soul, wrapt in the goodness, the glory «f the Omnipotent, and express with holy zeal, their gratitude for innumerable mercies, and for the great blessing of a Redeemer. Upon these oc- casion, all distinctions are levelled. They are all brothers : the rich merchant humbles himself upon the same seat with the poor tradesman, and both unite as one in the worship of God. :■ 1 '■lU 1 i - I' 'I II ' '1 < i ' -. / M i' '. ■■ i A J m VEDESTRTAK TOUR. ,1, I' u One instance deserves notice ; an African, whose coal-black features glistened with religious ar- dour, addressed an aged matron, and asked, " Sister, are you happy ?" She raised berwithered bands in the air, and whilst her palid counte- nance received a flu«h of heavenly delight, she eried, " Yes, bless the Lord, I am happy." How inestimable must those doctrines be, that can make man ha|>py in this painful transitory life. In the meantime I went to Harvestraw, and by inquiry, found the path which leads to the top of the lofty mountain, back of that village. Following the path for some time, I lost it ; and climbing in my own direction, peak above peak, up cliffs almost perpendicular, at length reached the smooth round rock, which crowns the summit of the High Torn. The prospect is truly grand and almost indiscribable. Here, we look upon all the surrounding country as a map, and the head grows dizzy with the height. Elevated eight hun- dred and (iftj-two feet above the surface of the Hudson, we trace the windings of that spacious fiver, from the Piillisadoes, to the middle of the Highland?, through which it passes. From this situation, we discover that our nicest maps of the river, are very incorrect. Ptomontc- ries are seen jutting into the bays of Harvestraw and Tappan ; here the river l>ends, there it ex- pands, and then becomes constricCed into '• a narrow straight. To the south and westward, tlie hinds are flat and well cultivated, continuing 80^ ufltil they are suddenly interrupted by the ridge oft] thee ton, twee; ward very ] camp and 1 mead( Des side, ] valuab peak. , the mo cross ir iii V, m\ VEUESTRIAN TOUR. W [lOSC i ar- iked, lered unte- :, she How t can life. r, and [O the illage. ;; and eakjup led the imit of nd and all the J head ht hun- of the »acious die of passes. |r nicest ontc- estraw |e it ex- inta a ardjthe uing »o^ of the Blue Mountains. I recognized a part of the chain, called the Gap, twenty miles above Fas- ton, where the Delaware river finds its passage be- tween immense overhanging clifl's. To the cast- ward, in the state of New-York, the country is veiy hilly. Beneath my feet, the white tents of the camp, were perceptible in the little woody copse, and the creek was seen winding through the meadows like a serpent. Descending the mountain upon the opposite side, I found upon reaching the foot, that a valuable pocket spy-glass had been left upon the peak. Again I commenced the toil of clambering the mountain, which, however, I had intended to cross in a low part, and by an easy path. Believing I had gained the peak, to my great vexation, I found myself upon a bluff a great distance to the north, with the High Torn, lifting its shaggy craigs on the right, in the lofty grandeur of a superior mountain. I proceeded with difficulty along the ridge to the Torn, and regained my los^t article. I was now resolved to go directly down to the village, without following the circuitous rout, by which I had ascended. The attempt looked possible. There were two old rotten trees, on the very verge of the columnar cliffs, around which I crept to a place on the precipice, where, by using the greatest care, holding fast of twigs and roots, and fixing my feet upon firm founda- tions, I thought proper to venture. About one third of the way down, the descent became so di- ; t' ; -I ■1 i'U >ii.i t 11 l^ f? *■ i i ' ji 20 PEDESTIllAN TOUR. rect, that it was impossible even to lean back against the rocks. Here I was suddenly stopped by a great chasm, which appeared beyond hu- man power to descend. To think of getting back was absurd. I was completely fixed. Comforting myself with the old adage, " man must die at one time or other,' I made a desperate sally, caught the root of a sturdy shrub, and with i^reat risk, got to the bottom of the chasm : thence with more safety I reached the plain. When I looked up, next morning, as the sun shone against the peak, and reddened with its beams, the angry face of the clifls, 1 perceived the rotten trees and the place of my descent. A descent there appeared utterly impossible. I pointed the place to my friend, who gazed and exclaimed " did you so!" with an expression oil his countenance which indicated — I half be- lieve you I At night the camp was brilliantly illuminated, und a sermon was delivered to an immense con- course of people. The trumpets sounded early in the morning, to give notice lor family prayer in the tents. Soon after, columns of smoke rose from the several fires ; the kettles were carried about; and the long tables were spread with abundant meats, over wliich the face of every in- dividual, smiled with gratitude and content- ment. About ten, I set off by a lonely rout, overthe ridges of the Allegany and Blue mountains, com- monly called the Highlands. These mouotains. denor Unite Georg consis Blue, I linctiv ^ecoa and inl from tl alluvial »ea-8hoi compos JSiome oi exhibit, ances ol iron-ore will not highest New- Be peaks ari of the fi A scai woods aij I mistoc the way,! fhe mouf Fort Moij perceptil times, an| the warr delivered| and chaij PEULSTRIAN TOUR. f arche walls, so seem to 1 soldiers, place in holes faci from the looms. T of brick ; by the cur mason- w( hind the within, by remains o upon the of feldspj or tourmi of the riv The wo sage of the «uid most i PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 23 ny 8 little pro- ^ sat and de in :oun- ntrast She jwith arties ig up occu- The more large adets, ton to mesB- uten- leCa- louses of the superb Lieut. Irie in lonsist- e, is to pon it, ulars. ;ire in a ruinous condition, and stand as a dis- grace to the neatness and regularity of this great military establishment. On the mountain above West-Point are the remains of Fort Putnam. The mouldering bat- tlements still show an appearance of warlike magnificence, overtoping the craggy rocks, the thick bushes, and encroaching vines, which hang about the basis. Fort Putnam was the strongest fortress on the river. Its walls were thirty feet in height, and the same in thickness. A number ©f arched rooms or vaults, were made in the walls, some of which have not yet caved in, and seem to have been capable of holding each forty soldiers, in the greatest security. There is a fire- place in the end of each vault, and two square holes facing the river. It is eight feet and a half from the outside of the fort, to the inside of the rooms. The arches are thirty inches through, and of brick ; parts of which are often conveyed away by the curious, as relics of inestimable value. The mason-work of the walls, towards the land be- hind the fort, is six feet in thickness, supported within, by embankments. In the middle are the remains of the magazines. Fort Putnam stands upon the irregular surface of a rock, composed of feldspar and large crystals of black shorl or tourmaline, six hundred feet above the level of the river. ; The works of West-Point command the pas- sage of the Hudson, in a part, the most contracted and most difficult of navigation. The situa- n a f-: ■ ■ ; ) ' i 1 .' 1 ■"/:l' .,>*i r«i I' u u PEDESTRIAN TOVA. . 11 I I, i f if ' \ e ! ■' f f I ! f \ I 1 ■ h; lion is extremely romantic, .ind the surrounding scenery picturesque and astonishingly sublime. It was this important post, which General Ar- nold attempted to put into the possession of Sir Henry Clinton in 1780. Though a brilliant ofii- rcr, Arnold through his extravagance, defrauded the public, to satisfy the demands of his credi- tors. Disgusted with the just reproaches which he received, he resolved to go over to the British, and that advantageously. Overtures were made, and Major John Andre, Adjutant-general to the British army, was sent by Sir Henry, to nego- tiate with the treacherous Arnold. He was rowed ashore under cover of night, from a sloop of war in the river, and was met by General Arnold, who delivered into his hands, plans of the fortifications, and accounts of the number of men, ordinance and artillery, necessary for their defence. The conference continued so long, that Andre, who could not retreat in day-light, was obliged to conceal himself in company with Arnold, until the ensuing evening. The men who rowed him ashore, now refused to venture with him back to the sloop of war, on account of the danger from the American cannon. Major Andre, was in consequence, compelled to as- sume a fictitious name, and in a disguised habit, return by land. Upon the boun- daries of the American lines, on his way to New- York, three men sprang from the woods and arrested ijim for a spy. In vain, he offered money and promised rewards, if they would let im|5 me. Ar- Sir offi- ided redi- rhicU itish, nade, o the nego- was sloop eneral ins of ber of their long, -light, with men nture untof Major to as- lauised boun- iay to ids and fered let PI ,55 •«. f. i- If I him pi pass ii Point, concea He wai as a sp; Major . detecti< his terr drove t( before c ceived li in New The northen day, wi spread in The dus in the h( hailed tl villages, Nothing a cow-be dren spoi ing abov< women, } broken f continual beginning The rO( Canterbui PEDESTRIAN TOUIl. t^ him proceed. Taken in the night, with ArnoldTi pass in his pocket book, and plans of West- Point, with accounts of its situation and strength, concealed in his boots, he could not dissimulate. He was seized, tried by martial law, and hung as a spy. Such was the fate of the unfortunate Major Andre. A mold, as soon as he heard of his detection, was struck with astonishment, and in his terror and agitation, he called for a horse, and drove to the beach, down a craggy steep, never before explored on horseback, where a barge re- ceived him and conveyed him, to the British army in New- York. The sun shone clear, as I descended the northern slope of the Highlands, on the ensuing day, with the fertile plains of Orange county, spreading to an extensive distance before me. The dusky range of the Kaatskill mountains rose in the horizon: and with pleasing sensations, I hailed the perspicuous spires of the numerous villages, which were scattered in the prospect. Nothing but rocks and woods, with here and there a CO w-beii jingling among the trees, ragged chil- dren sporting in the dirt, a few blades of corn ris- ing above half burnt stumps of trees, men and women, haggard and tawny, peeping through the broken panes of their only window, formed a continual scene in the mountains, of which I was beginning to grow weary. The road passes through the little villages of Canterbury and New-Windsor, to Newburgh, afery large and important market-town, through f.i A \i it ' ,'■ i 1 ':Mm 36' FEOeSTRlAX TOUK* • I i ' r 4! ;(, I'n ; I which, a considerable trade is carried on, between the western tracts and the city of New-York- The turnpike leading from this to Ithaca, is one of the finest in the state. Montgomery is a village twelve miles from Newburgh, situated on the turnpike at the river Wallkill, where it is remarka- ble, what attempts the enterprising inhabitants have made, towards improvement and grandeur in the style of their buildingn. Some of the houses are large and fashionable ; but, unluckily, paint was scarce, and glaziers were nowhere to be pro- cured ; so that the line mouldings and window- shutters remain in their pristine hues, stained with iron rust fi'om bolts and heads of nails ; and the sashes, as fast as the panes are broken, are carefully fastened up with shingles and pine boards, giving the whole edifice a very admirable variety in its appearance. One in particular, three stories high, having six windows in front of each gtory, was found by the occupants rather too ex- pensive to be kept in repair, and therefore had been suffered to go into decay ; after all the win- dows had been closed with boards, except in one corner of the building, where the lords of the mansion discovered, that light sufficient could be admitted through five solitary remaining panes. I continued until late at night, travelling very speedily on a narrow road towards the Never- sink, (a river which falls into the Delaware,) about thirty-six miles from Newburgh, where a particu- lar friend of mine resided, whom, I was desirou* of visii (ain, t^ that tl about but oti formati tale to ginatioi without bushes, catamoi into the I arrive< where ] formed i thers ha but that that nig cleared elevatior ^'"iij grai I was tality, at banks of together, blast or fc rect line, taking ac ture, was which it h OftMoi a. forest o wafl b^ii f are win- one If the :ouUl lining verj I ever- ibout Irticu- irou* PEDESTRIAN TOUB. 2| of Tisiting. A rriving at the foot of Shongo moun- lain, two men stopped me, and inforaicd me. that there was a panther prowling soujewhcrc about the mountain, and that not only they, but other persons had heard its yell. This in- formation a little startled me ; but believing tiic tale to be a fiction, or at most the efl'ect of ima- gination, I proceeded onward ; not however, without metamorphosing, through the gloom, bushes, stumps and stones, into wide-inout!\ed catamounts, and construeing every distant sound into the dismal scream of tliat voracious animal. I arrived at an Inn upon the top of the mountam, where I concluded to stop. The lamllord in- formed me, that it was several years since pan^ thers had visited the woody regions of Shongo, but that he had actually heard the screams of one that night. Fires were glowing from the new cleared lands upon the plains, which from this elevation, in the dead silence of night, looked aw- fully grand. I was received by my friend with great hospi- tality, at his farm situated upon the luxuriant banks of the Neversink. We made an excursion together, to a part of the forest, where a sudden blast or tornado had ripped up the trees in a di- rect line, for a very great distance ; and the owner, taking advantage of this terrible operation of na- ture, was milking an excellent road, on the course which it had taken, with scarcely any diificulty. OftMonday, I walked to Rochester, traversing a, forest of thirty-three miles, where agriculture wa^ beginning to re;^r the standard of plenty i %■: (. 1 "i| i I I I. f : ' \ i ,1 :; i.! 1. '! r itiit: ^ 28 PEDESTftlAN TOUR. above the logs, in a few detached acres of cleared land. An eclipse of the sun took place in the morning, but the clouds prevented its being seen. The dwellings of the inhabitants are mere log hut»; they appeared so rejoiced at seeing a new face among them, that they almost stopped me, to converse, and show me the great improvements they had made, and were making in the wil- derness. Millet is sown here in considerable quantities. \ . . • ' . i At Warsink was one of the most delightful val- lies, I had ever descended: the hills rose in graceful sublimity, crowned with the lofty hem- lock and fir ; creeks and rivulets foamed among the rocks at the bottom of obscure glens ; whilst the broad side of the highest ridge of Shongo mountain, appeared in front, like a great screen to oppose the rays of a morning sun. The in- habitants of the luxuriant and highly cultivated vale, which extends north-easterly at the foot of the mountain, towards Kingston or Esopus, are descendants of the Dutch ; they are old pos- sessors, and have chosen, as they were the original settlers of the State of New- York, the very richest districts of the country. Here are no half-burnt trees to disfigure the fields, and no log- houses, (though sufficiently comfortable inside) to impress the beholder with disgust, at their wretched, and uncouth exterior. Approaching from the west, we find ourselves, upon a sudden surrounded with farms, which have been brduj^t to the greatest perfection. Broad meaddwe ar^ seen stocked with fine cattle ; the ruddy frttit drop! trees, are f] In bletov minin cesafu in suf] millsti ^'actux4 Esopu quarry has be< receive manufa Henry with se Esop taste, which t Genera Clinton iug dev; fine vill <^ommar The and bir to west face Qf int^resti Jnte^ald :< ^f PEIXESTRIAN TOUR. 29 ired the een. iut»; face s to »ents wil- rable ' f ■■-■■ ^ I*- ■ L. IvaU se in hem- mong wrhilst tiongo icreen le in- ivated 5ot of s, are pos- iginal very re no lolog- nside) : their aching udden ough g a: friiit s drops from overloaded boughs of pear £^nd ap^plQ trees, whilst peaches and plums, and other fruitt, are flourishing in exuberant plenty. *. vr In the neighbourhood of Rochester and Mar^ bletown, many attempts have hem made at mining ; most of which, however, were unsuc- cessful, as lead-ore and sulphur were not procured in sufficient quantities ta defray the costs. But millstone is obtained from the bills, and manu*- lactured advantageously. Within three miles of £sopus, through which I passed the next day,. a quarry of very beautiful l^eterogeneous marble has been discovered, which contains shells and receives a very high and elegant polish. A manufactory of this marble is carried on by Mr. Henry Darley, at Esopus, who presented me with several specimens. Esopus is a large village, built in the Dutch taste, and having a capacious court-house, iu which the court was at thia time sitting. When General Vaughan, acting under the orders of Clinton, in 1777, sailed up the Hudson, spread- ing devastation on both sides of the river, this fme village, among o&er settlements, was by his < km -f. j^ I M % . . i' ! h !fi;i n I'll 30 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. around their summits, they showed their higl^ and rugged peaks, in a clear defmeabie outline. On my right, the waters of the Hudson, were pleasingly ruffled, and the dark umbrage of trees wavertd upon its banks. Nearer by, the blast shrilly whistled among the pine trees and cedars. All portended a storm. I had not proceeded far beyond Kaatskill, which is a splendid and very busy village, when it began to rain exces- sively fast. Well provided against such changes, I kept on my journey, walking, in some parts, where the rain had rendered the soil extremely tenacious, and made travelling very diiiicult Passing successively through Athens or Lower Purchase, Lunenburgh or Upper Purdiase, Cox- sackie, and New-Baltimore, I at length stopped at an Inn, within twelve miles of Albany ; and next day (Thursday) at eleven, I entered with no small degree of pleasure, the capital of the State of New- York, and the scene of very many important transactions. ' • - v^ • . > : .: ^ Albany is compactly built. There is one wide street, however, which runs directly up the hill, upon the side of which the city is situated, and is terminated at the top by a noble edifice, called the Capitol : this is State-street. I as- cended to the Capitol, and obtained from the summit of the roof, an extensive view of the town, the country, adjacent villages, and the Hudson river, with its woody banks and beau* tiful islands. . Officers were here busily engaged^ in conveying bills, documents, and other »tete_ papers of the Conve mence month, which leisure, These stood i] dent's 8 ratus fo] portrait hung in adorned plant . was allot also assi^ for ladies For th( into the moral pic exhibiting and execi but alleg satisfactio as are m( room in th In the Cook's rea jroe of ( ibmry, its supply of ^4i ila8t lars. jded and tces- ngesr jarts, jmely icult. ^ower ,Cox- opped ; and ithno f the many PEDESTRIAN TOUH. dt slate papers, in large baskets, from the great chamber of the assembly, to an adjoining apartment. The Convention of New- York, which had com- menced sitting in Albany on the 29th of this month, had adjourned a few hours previous, which gave me an opportunity of examining at leisure, the decorations of the assembly room. These were superb. Rows of mahogany desks stood in circular phalanges, around the Presi- dent's seat, each provided with paper and appa^- ratus for writing. On the wall, was a full length portrait of General Washington. Maps were hung in different parts, and the \ ! • '■'. ■i li- ft.'!:, I "ii; ••It 1 ft ?!■ 1% i '■: i iiS ;;•] CHAPTER II. I ROiM ALBANV, THROUGH SARATOGA AND liALLSTON SPA; TOUTICA. Saturday September Ist. 1821. Notwithstanding the rain, which fell in showers on Saturday morning, I' left Albany, and walking over a meadow, extending along the west side of the Hudson river, northward, I came within sight of the large commercial village of Troy, which has been so lately devas- tated by fire, but which has now nearly recovered its former splendour. A miserable line of houses, dignified, however, by a large and magnificent state armoury, lies opposite Troy, and is called Watervlit : I passed through it, and twelve miles from Albany, approached the mouth of the Mohawk river. Here are two islands, at the confluence of the Hudson and Mohawk, upon which General Schuyler, encamped the American troops in 1777, in their retreat from the British army un- der General Burgoyne. From a very lengthy covered bridge, which '•rosses the Mohawk, near the mouth, a fine view is obtained of the great f&lis, the Cahoes. The dryness of the season had made the volume seldom this nat The st] which e] where i\ scent is a slope i feet snov ver, whi< and so is pletely c may walk below the stand in ff ' ( place whe Not fa which is ] stores witl great hois of the roof navigable, current is ( are not so passing ov( river, at W Continui grounds at son rolling, thescattere scene of one revolutiona .'t I PEDESTKIAN TOUR. 3j BATTLE OF BEEMIS* HEIGHTS. ?*,♦ .: Hi I i • ;;; 40 PEDESTRIAN roua seen riding over the plain : the Generals met him, and immediately all were in arms, forming into companies, or marching in order of battle. Yonder a troop of wounded dragoons were coming from the engagement towards the hos^ pital : death sat upon their countenances: blood ran from their bodies; and as the mournful train, slowly advanced, some one of them, at every short distance, fell from his horse, and ex- pired on the ground." The period between the 19th. of September, and the second engagement, on the 7 th. of Oc- tober, was full of painful anxiety on the part of the British. Not a day passed, without the death of some soldier or oificer, shot by the American scouts and marksmen. And at tliis moment tlie Indians, when their assistance was most needed, deserted from the cause, under which they had enlisted. Their defection was occasioned by the disappointment of their hopes of plunder, and by the notice which Gene- ral Burgoyne was in honour obliged to take of the cruel massacre of Miss IM'Crea. This beautiful young lady, dressed in her bridal habiliments, in order to be married the same evening to an oflicer of character in Burgoyne's own regiment, while her heart glowed in expec- tation of a speedy union with the beloved object of her affections, was induced to leave a house, near Fort Edward, with the idea of being escorted * Hislorj of America, page 457. to th( fathei but it humai cent, i Two ( of gua betwec the pri the bit of inn< their fi seal pec On observe design rican ll from th of Lak in read gageme fire ens Was dre sanguin afternoc favour c leaving mand, ^ several Gipitatel sued, ai their car PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 41 ibfer, ;Oc- irt of ; the the t tliis i was mder was opes iene- take This ridal same yne's xpec- hject ouse, orted to the residence of her intended husband. Iler father had uniformly been a zealous loyalist; but it was not always in the power of the most humane of the British otficera, to protect the inno- cent, from the barbarity of their savage adherents. Two of the principal warriors, under pretence of guarding her person, had, in a mad quarrel between themselves, which was best entitled to the prize, or to the honour of the escort, made the blooming beauty, shivering in the distress of innocence, youth and despair, the victim of their fury. The helpless maid was butchered and scalped, and 1^ r bleeding corpse left in the woods. On the 7th of October, the royal army was observed advancing, prepared for action. Their design was to force a passage through the Ame- rican lines ; or if they failed, to dislodge them from their entrenchments, and retreat by the way of Lake George. The American troops were in readiness to repulse the attack, and the en- gagement soon became general. A tremendous fire ensued. The thunder of the British cannon was dreadful. After a contest of the the most sanguinary kind, which lasted a great part of the afternoon, the victory was at length decided in favour of the American army, and the enemy, leaving many of their officers highest in com- mand, wounded or slain, upon the field, and several pieces of their brass artillery, fled pre- cipitately into their lines. The Americans pur- sued, and commenced a furious assault upon their camp ; which was in part carried, when 4 ♦ m,h ■it ■ ii i,- 1 - 42 night scene. PEDESTRIAN TOUR. once more closed upon the bloody This defeat was signal. General Burgoyne, in the darkness oi night, after leaving fires kindled and some tents standing, led back his weak dispirited army on the road they had be- fore travelled, as far as Saratoga ; where he re- mained until the articles of surrender were sign- ed on the I7th of October, 1777. The British, who not long before had advanced in such over- whelming numbers, and with such a formidable array of strength and equipments, were now conducted, mournful captives, between two files of victorious troops, into the very city of Alba- ny, in which they had thought with the greatest certainty of spending a happy winter. A trench and rampart, overgrown with bushes and crowned with a rail-fence, runs from the foot of Beemis' heights, across the meadow, to the bank of Hudson river. It formed a part of the American line of entrenchments. Where it is terminated at the edge of the river, a sen- tinel was walking late in the night, after the bat- tle of the 7th, when a boat appeared rowing down the stream, which he hailed. The boat put ashore, under a flag of truce, and a beautiful lady, it is said, with her attendants, ascended the bank. This was Lady Harriet Ackland.* Her husband was wounded and a prisoner in the j^merican camp. With a heroism seldom to •t" * Genera! Wilkinson^a Memoira. be met stormy out knc in orde respecti upon hi wounds. guard, c where an and sup morning, due to he cao camp The ho hospital, where I ha * Lady Ack I Burgoyne, who lines upon a W( read the .supers I fer in the origin I Historical Soci« Sir, Ladjr Harriet land persona] vir land, her husbar refuse her requei Whatever gen jjour situation an pre-eminence in ( Y} and her ver |o her will lay ml Oct. 9, 1777, W. G. Gates. ^y PEDESTRIAN TOUH. 43 be met with, she had thus ventured, on a cold stormy night, in the midst of her enemies, with- out knowing whose hands she might fall into, in order to quiet her dreadful apprehensions respecting the fate of her husband, and to attend upon him, till he should be recovered of his wounds. Major Dearborn, who commanded the guard, conducted her into a cabin of his own, where an apartment was cleared, a fire kindled,- and supper prepared. She remained until morning, and was then escorted with the honours due to her rank and condition, into the Ameri- cau camp.* The house which the British army made their hospital, is about three miles from the tavern where I had stopped, and is colloquially termed. i'i * Lady Ackland brought a letter (o General Gates from General Burgoyne, who, in the confusion of the defeat, could only write a few I lines upon a wet and soiled piece of paper. The guard could not read the superscription, which occasioned some detention. This let- ter in the original, haS^been deposited in the archives of the New-York I Historical Society. , ^ ;^u;i; ' -. 1^' ^ /cfTjii' -f g. Gtrural Burgoyne's Letter. vrj. Lady Harriet Ackland, a lady of the first distinction by family, rank, bad personal virtues, is under such concern on account of Major Ack- land, her husband, wounded, a prisoner in your hands, that I cannot |refuse her request to commit her to your protection. Whatever general impropriety there may be, in persona acting in pur situation and mine, to solicit favours, T cannot see the uncommon pre-eminence in every female grace, and exaltation of character of this lady, and her very hard fortune, without testifying, that your attentions |o her will lay me under obligations. I am, Sir, Oc<. 9, 1777, •' v; your obedient servant, M. G. Gates. ' • '"^ -r'.*r;7 n '- j. BURGOYNE. !■! 1^' ) t t'-^i 44 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. Ui M '/; ' h.J JHgly a then cc dust, land. rectly b bushes ( The 1 uneven j Nervals, i among t] creek TalJ church, ( revolutioi ing been ill the neigbbourheod, The house where Frazer died* It is now Smith's Tavern. There is a wide tneadOw between it, and the high grounds under which it formerly stood. It has since been removed half a mile to the banks of the river. Its form is atitique, the rooms are large, and not in the iea^t ruinous. The Baroness de Reidesel with her three infant children, who had accompanied her husband, Major-General the Baron Reidesel, commander of the German troops, from Canada, through all the horrors of the war, here occupied a room, whilst the re- joining apartments were filled with the wouk d' I and the djring. In the afternoon of the second bat- tle, she expected the Generals to dine with her, at I ^^s decaye four o'clock ; when instead of the guests. General I '^^e Nortl Frazer was brought in, carried on a litter, mor-l Champjai tally wounded. The table was instantly removed.! ®"e side, ; By some, indeed, it is related, that the dishe^J '"^ad. On and every article on the table were swept upon! ^^nds, upc the floor, and General Frazer was laid upon itj ^^'dy of instead of a bed. This brave and gallant sol-|P"''^u»ng dier died the next day, and according to his re-l^^scendan quest, his corpse was borne, without parade, to "^«inded a^ the top of a hill behind the house, where a re- "P^n a poi doubt had been built, and is still visible. The streams, procession, accompanied by General Burgoyn( ^'Hs. ?p ^,w and the principal officers, slowly ascended th( Saratoga hill in sight of both armies, and under a con- ^be situat tinual fire from the Americans. The funera Hudson be service was performed in the usual manner ; bu ^^ Baten-k the solemnity of interment was rendered strik "^d the high ai m\i ',V PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 45 razer is a mnds since •f the large, 3S9 '■■•'« OUi »1' ■ >nd bat- \i her, at ingly awful, by the cannon bails, which now and then covered the mournful train with clouds of dust. His remains are removed to Eng- land. The hill is known by its standing di- rectly back of the house, and having the trees and bushes cleared away from its sides. • . .£ ^^ The road leading to the village of Saratoga, is uneven and recedes from the river ; which, at in- tervals, may be seen rolling its diminished current among the trees and meadows. Near Fishkill, a creek falling into the Hudson, the ruins of an old church, celebrated in the bloody scenes of the revolution, were laying at the road side ; hav- ing been very lately pulled down, on account of its decayed condition. The unfmished bed of p' 2^1 1 the Northern canal,, which is to connect Lake 1 jjior-l Champlainwith the Hudson, runs sometimes on pmoved.1 °"^ side, and sometimes on the other side of the dishe3 1 ^^^^' ^w the left, the high bank of the creek ex- nt upon! ^^"^s, upon which General Gates, with the main ^ j^lbody of the American army was posted, after lant 8ol-|P"^^"*"S ^® t^is place, the retreating enemy. A ohis re-l'^^^^^'^^^"^ of General Schuyler, who first com- rade tol"^*^"^^^ against Burgoyne, has a seat, situated jjupon a point, formed by the junction of the two \\ rn))Jstreams, and adjacent, a large establishment of iurgoyne ded thJ Saratoga consists of a few scattered houses. conP^^ situation, however, is pleasant, with the funeraP"^^^" below, divided by two romantic islands, ' _. \)ufce Baten-kill pouring its waters from the east, led strikf '^^^ ^^® ^^S^ mountains of Vermont rising in sight : .11. ij v.-iJ 4b >E]»£STRIAN TOUir. ; •! I '! faaving passed remaiiii to the ( vhen th man, in exhibitii to fetch tremelyrf tured to i ^ respec ness, she Strange s all which is enhanced by the recollection of the glory, which the American arms tliere acquired. The royal army occupied the heights, where they were completely surrounded by the American battalions, and compelled (Oct. 17th) to sur« render, prisoners of war. The American soldiers lined the opposite banks of the river, and poured continual vollies into the British encampment. A large farm- house stands upon a hill, not far from the village, against which they kept up a terrible cannona- ding, under the mistaken idea, that in it, all the Generals were assembled. But it contained 00I7 Wounded soldiers and the officers wives, who! which no had taken shelter from their destructive fire.lAoor, hut * The Baroness Reidesel, with her infant children, I from si&hi heing in the house, was obliged to seek refuge in I At $^ri the cellar; where she remained during a whole I are disce night, her children sleeping on the cold earth I conducted with their heads on her lap. Irow piece This house was shown to me ; it is calledlearth and Bushee^s house, and remains still in a very goodlevidence 01 condition. The hill upon which it stands, acJbeen then cords exactly with thatj engraved on the map inkround we Smith's History of the American war. The preJsame level • Sent tenants received me politely, and pointedlfFort Hard out the several rooms, rendered famous for thJihe river h remarkable occurrences which transpired betweemury, untou their walls. In one room, an unfortunate sollhick bMshei dier was lying on a table, for the purpose of binding * KarratireoftheBai^essReides^. I^rcuit.^f f fiDEST&lAN TQUa. « having his leg amputated, when a canpon h^)l passed through the house and carried away his remaining leg : his attendants had s^hsconded to the cellar and other plaices of security, and when they returned, they foynd the iniserable man, in a corner where he haid crept, scarcely exhibiting any signs of Ufe. As no person d^red to fetch water from the river, it sooi> became ex- tremely sc9>rce ; until a soldier's wife boldly ven- tured to the shore, a^t lyhom, the Americans, out- of respect, did not j^re. For this disinterested- ness, she was afterwards handsomely rewarded. Strange stories are told about spots of blood, which no washings could ever erase from the floor, but which, it appears, are at last hiddep. from sight by several coverings of paint. At Saratoga, few inarks of the encampments are discernible. My host, towards evening eartb| conducted me to a large field, divided by a nar- row piece of woods, over which a few risings of calledlearth and scarcely perceptible excavations, gave ry goodlevidence of the parapets and ncioats which had nds, at'lbeen there, and which the cultivators of the e map itiground wer« endeavouring to reduce all to the The prelsame level ; whilstan insignificant French redoubt, pointeAPort Hardy,) situated on a fertile meadow near for ihJihe river, has been suffered to remain near a cenr betweeilury, untouched by the plough, and defended by ate solihick bushes from the attacks of nature. rpose o| Winding among by-roads, 8Lnd making a large ircuit 9f Qje^r M^n mitm, thcou^ a d^iKMt and the ired. they riean I sur- posite jollies farm- illage, onona- all the 3d ooly j8, who tve fire, hildren, efuge in whole B *^^^' . ^,m ■ H ! N J' ^■■11 48 PEDESTRIAN TOVR. m if'!' ■'..5 m '! » I!-; ■ I m ' I 1 , ^i: I h f. r.l ^ uncleared tract, I came in sight of the extensive village o( Saratoga SpringSy so much resorted to, for its excellent waters. It stands elevated upon the side of a little valley, formed hy a brook which joins the river Kayadarossoras. The ad- jacent lands are level and uninteresting. The banks of the hollow formed by the brook, are about forty feet high on each side, and make, as they recede apart, a wide bottom of meadow ground, and as they appror^^'h together, a narrow and somewhat romantic glen. In this, are situa- ted the several fountains, all of them, though spouting here and there, for two miles along the swampy ravine, evidently springing from the same source. ■' ^"^-^ ..?:?f.;ii.(j,!i ■>•$ ..r -.^rie* A mile from the northern extremity of the vil- lage, which is itself a mile in length, was formerly a mill-pond, which has been drained, and in the bog which it left, ten good fountains were latelyl ^'idercra discovered. They call this the Ten Springs! beyond a Proceeding southwest, toward the source of thel *^ater, no brook, the next we reach is Red Spring, deriving! Whilst its name from the accumulation of iron rust, and! tains, a n consisting of five fountains ; one of which, col-l fenced, lected like the rest in a square wooden boxjof the su spouts immediately from the middle of the runJ abounds, i'ug brook. On the hill adjacent are a number olmagnifice buarding-houses and stores. Ihalls with It is a considerable distance hence, lo thJas Saratov; Great-rock Spring. After passing Barrel Sprina^oih pubii we enter the commencement of the street, wherJand capaci the houses are old and ruinous, and descen three ^vhcr h is I iive /; eight 1 circulj down J taiuing rising ( ^inual J l>een foi J'l^nning jecture. ^ts annuj ^<^ginnini ^^'hich su ^^ the sai ^"8 the t( .' » I'EDESTRIAN TOUU. 49 three tlights of steps, to the bottom of the glen, where tliis singular natural curiosity is situated. It is a liard light-coloured rock, jutting four or five feet above the ground, of a conical figure, eight feet in diameter at the basis, and haying a circular hole, ten inches across, running directly down from the top into .i I How chamber, con- taining the mineral water. Bubbles of fixed air rising to the surface of the water, keep it in con- tinual agitation. How this rock should have been formed with the regular cylindrical hole running into it, can only be determined by con- jecture. The most remarkable circumstance is its annual discharge, which takes place about the beginning of summer.* In the same paling which surrounds the Great-rock, is another rock of the same whitish calcareous description, haiv- T . ^^'gi ing the top even with the ground and a much latehl ^'^^^ crater, of twenty inches diameter, in which j;, -^p.^ I beyond arm's length, is a cistern of impure green of thel ^^ter, not lit to be tasted. deriving! Whilst I was examining these singular foun- _i,jj^(^^| tains, a most tremendous shower of rain com- ch col-|"^^^^^^^» ^"^ compelled me to retreat into one en box! ^^ the superb hotels with which the village the runl^^^*^^^^'** ^^ place in America possesses such umber ol*^^g"i^*<^6nt boarding-houses and sumptuous halls with their piazzas, cupolas, and pavilions, to thi^^ Saratoga Springs. Indeed, all the buildings, el Springf^^^^ public and private, are extremely splendid t wheif'^^ capacious. * '•- - - ■ i. ., , deSCeni * Winterbo> vji')! t':l :i ■II •;s" .1 ■• ■' '-'r Si- k 1 I .; 4 m i ■ ; 1 , i-' if : 60 PEDESTRIAN TOCH. There are many other fountains, such as Fiat" rock, Hamilton, Washington, and Columbia ; but none are so much esteemed as Congress Spring, from v.aich the waters are taken for expoiiation, and thence are commonly known by the appella-* tion of Congress Water. There is no very sensible difterence between the taste of the several springs : there is however, i» great ditference between the conveniences for drinking, the glasses for dipping up the water, and the bath-houses, which occa- sions one spout to be frequented ? Teat deal more than another, a .(>►:»■• » u The composition of these waters is chiefly sa- line, impregnated strongly with carbonic acid gas. It is extraordinary in what manner such a vast quantity of air is produced, as rises from the earth and bubbles on the top of the fountains, causing a simmering noise, similar to that of a glass of fresh drawn champaigne, to be heard on all their surfaces. Ballston Springs are six miles hence in a south-westerly direction, between which and Sa- ratoga Springs the land is one sandy uninterest- ing plain. At the village of Ballston Spa, the landscape assumes a more pleasing variety ; a branch of the Kayadarosseras rolls through a little valley, washing the basements of the lower bouses, and winding until its course is lost among] high hills which 4ay in the vicinity. Hotels, acade- mies, and churches, rise magnificent above the! tops of extensive ranges of wool and cottonl manufactories, and stamp upon the features! 1 \ji PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 51 fly sa- c acid such a J from ntains, it of a ardon of the place a character of great wealth and grandeur. r ^> ,, » . , i , The fountains are situated in different parts of the village. A convenient footwalk leads over the j; i.v)u,it;>:v • ; ;.,;,. i ■i-.^ih' ^i In the middle of the village, an iron railing surrounds a hollow area, wiih steps descending to the bottom, in which the fountain principally resorted to, gushes over the top of a spout two feet high and runs off in a regular stream. Air bubbles continually swell from below, and burst upon the surface of the water. The taste is agreeable and becomes more so by the practice of drinking. It is in general use among the '3 Ml >i PEDESTRIAN TOUR. Si! I {'■:•■ M villagers, who admire its gently stimulating pro- perties, and even prefer it to the costly spi- rituous and fermented liquors of the shops. Persons were sitting upon the steps, within the railing, contemplating the buhbling tluid and considering the wonderful effects of Nature's secret operations, and ** ever and anon** some pallid invalid, some hearty farmer, some delicate female, some blustering fashionable youth, de- scended to the fountain, and applied the sim- mering cup to their lips. The day was gloomy. Mingling with the murmurs of the adjacent creek, the sweet strains of a well-played violin, floated from the windows of the nearest boarding-house, and agreeably corresponded with emotions, which the place excited. I looked with admiration upon the scene, and, like many others, contem- plated the air-bubbles of the fountain with real satisfaction. Early the next morning (Sept. 4th) I left the springs, not a little regretting to part with the so- cial company of the hotel where I lodged. Whether it is to be ascribed to the beneficial ef- fects of the water, or to a fixed resolution of spending the time merrily, that good humour, merry-makings, and sports constantly prevail here, and brighten the countenances of both strangers and inhabitants, is a question of some doubt. The springs are assuredly places of gay resort, notwithstanding the uninteresting features of the barren district in which they are situated. The hot season was now closing, and copse quentl dimin Firu which I as I ad >ne one I was n liad sud ^V- TI striLiiify live Mel formerly '^anks w ineniberc '^le tribe, nour to means of ♦'Xterniin? Be/ore line of the stakes, wh westward, the souths The bui ''ubsfLntial '•'ge, is a k'hurches a jtecture am Jangles. Its! lion, may bl But the s Union PEDESTRIAN TOUR. Ml left the the 80- |lodged. Ticial ef- ition of quently the polite companies were beginning to diminish in theirnumbers. ' Fifteen miles of a sandy, pine and cedar plain, which gradually increased in fertility and beauty as I advanced in sight of Schenectady, brought me once more to the banks of the Mohawk river. I was rowed across the stream, which late rains had suddenly swelled and rendered dark and mud- dy. The appearance of the current and the oars striking upon its surface, reminded me of the na- tive Mohawk Indian, with his canoe and paddles, formerly darting from side to side of these verdant banks where his wigwam flourished. I re- membered with sorrow the downfall of that no- ble tribe, and thought it reflected but little ho- nour to the people who could find no other means of inhabiting a country, without entirely exterminating its original possessors. "> Before entering Schenectady, I observed the line of the great Western Canal, marked out by stakes, which here, and a great part of its course westward, is to be formed by embankments on the southern shore of the IVIohawk. -' -^^f > - ' The buildings of Schenectady are antique and substantial ; the court-house, formerly Union Col- lege, is a stone edifice of great capacity : the churches are finished in an elegant style of archi- tecture and the streets are airy and cross at right angles. Its inhabitants, chiefly of Dutch extrac- ion, may be computed at thirty-five hundred. But the most perspicuous object in this town, s Union College, displaying its two separate |:|** 6 * li-i \ ■J. i^.\ s'. I, ■ !. 1 54 P£DESTRIAN TOL'K. f .'{;t ^ ir ;i It. { i 't I : Ir Jl 1 ' ^inpfs, upon a rising grouml, observable at a great distance, and tUlbrdingrrom the roof one of the finest coup Htceifs imaginable. Without stopping to adjust my dusty attire, I went up to the college, where a professor and the librarian, kindly showed me the library and philosophical aparatus, both of which are objects of real cu- riosity ; especially a powerful electrical ma- chine, among the latter. The prospect from the top of the building was so alluring, that I remain- ed near an hour with my conversant conduc- tors, surveying the beauties of nature, the river winding east and west, the rugged hills of the northern counties, and the mountain which rises near Utica, whither my journey was directed. Dr. Mitchell, in a discourse, which he lately de- livered in this college, expressed an opinion, that the flat regions, stretching in the neighbourhood of Schenectady, and so completely surrounded by hills, has been the bed of a wide lake, which, us its outlet wore away, has dwindled into the comparatively little Mohawk river. Union Col- lege was incorporated in 1794; it is in a flourish- ing condition; and is to have more buildings, and a large botanical garden shortly annexed. Witli a quick pace, I recrossed the river on, Burfs singular bridge, which has a roof over each abutment only ; and bent my course due west through a delightful vale, which all the impassion- ed attempts of the poet would fail properly to describe, or the delicate touch of the pencil,. t€>| delineate with justice.-r — U'-'v/ ;/i ;.♦»«' i at. X hi. I hi . . .'if ihi i '•i i ir I ' 1 >ts> I f 1 ii PEDtSTRIAN TOUR. 55 "J. <.{! \W ^;'M «:• t » .Mallet. .<1 b6 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. i'\^ iff of rain. The shower passed ; and behind me, a perfect rainbow of the most vivid colours, sublimely stretched across the heavens, with one extremity resting on the hills, and the other on the agitated waters of the Mohawk. At Amsterdam, which is a considerable vil- lage fifteen miles from Schenectady, labourers were coming over the river, by whom I learned that the current had, that afternoon, risen four feet, and in consequence, the walling of the canal, for preventing the earthen mound from being washed away, was for the present discon- tinued. Through Tripes-Hill, an elevated village near the mouth of Schoharie creek, and Caughnawaga, which is compactly built, and pleasantly situa- ted, I passed, next day, towards Canajoharie ; proceeding, in the midst of huge clitTs, shoot- iuii four and live hundred feet, direct from the road side, with successive scenes of the finest combination, of islands, meadows, hills, and lofty precipices. Three miles east of Canajoha- rie village, 1 crossed the Mohawk, for the fourth time, in a small ferry-boat, to Spraker's tavern, with an intention of descending into the newly explored,, and wonderful cavern in the Nose, a high mountain in that neighbourhood. ' THE CAVERN OF CANAJOHARIE. Having procured a sufficiency of lights and ropes, the latter of which are especially necessary, and a person to act as guide, with two others who v( hajfa iiere ci the m, narrow eultivai close W( the tree: 'egular , ®f the o trance oi across or ning perj were ace to the ro niouth. aj The th ^een ince tlie water niud and We seiz ^ ''ght, fo lowered o |o^ a knot called) of h"fl gloc Istone rocli p one part [row water ^nown an * Represents h waters effjro. PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 67 Ihts and tcessary, o others who volunteered to accompany us ; we proceeded Haifa mile eastward, alon*;^ the canal, which is here cut with incredible labour, at the foot of the mountain,* and ascending by a steep and narrow path, went a mile farther, across some cultivated fields upon the top, to the skirt& of a close woods : penetrating a little distance among the trees, our conductor pointed to a small ir- regular hole at the bottom of a slight depression ©f the ground, intimating that it was the en- trance of the cavern. It was about twenty inches across one way, and three feet the other, run- ning perpendicularly downwards. Our candles were accordingly lighted, a rope was fastened to the root of a young tree, growing near the mouth, and we prepared to descend. The three or four preceding days, there had been incessant showers about these districts, and the water pouring down the hollow, had carried mud and rubbish along with it into the cavern. We seized the rope, and one by one, each with a light, forced a passage through the hole, and lowered ourselves twenty-five feet, with the help of a knotty pole, to the floor (if it could be so called) of the first room ; which was a large, black and gloomy expansion, in secondary lime- |stone rock, of no regular form, with projections jiii one part, dismal hollows in another, and nar- |row water-worn crevices leading to more un- known and impenetrable caverns. The floor, ♦ Represented rising on the U*ft of the.cng'aviiijj with tjic c£\nal at Ibe waters efljro. mi m 1 1 lii I >*m > Ml I! li '1 1,1/ ■$ if r •* '■ ■ («!■!' I it! W. ill m I! !< *-\*., 58 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. far from being horizontal, descended so vertically that we were obliged to creep upon our hands and feet : it was also covered with clay, wet, and as slippery as ice. The arching roof of the room was at first hung with beautiful pendant stalactites, curling in various forms of glittering icicles and sparry chandaliers, reflecting the light of torches with astonishing splendour: but these, not only in this chamber, but in the whole list ol twenty-one rooms, from the entrance to the bottom, were swept away by the late intruders, who rejoiced in bringing into open daylight, memorials of their adventure. On the right, a very contracted aperture opened into a lateral chamber, which we had no mind to explore : near it the ripling of a clear fountain of the purest and coldest water, sounded musically among the gloomy crevices and expansions. With some difficulty for want of a firm footing, we crept to the lower end of the room, where several passages ran off into dismal blackness ; one of which, was nearly round, of a crooked and downward descent, and large enough to admit a man. Our rope was fastened to a stick, laid across the opening, and with great toil, and in one part depending entirely by the rope, we bent and forced ourselves, notwithstanding wet clay and sharp points, forty feet with the assis'tance of a pole here also, to the floor of the second room. Part way down this second passage, was a smaller one, branching probably to unat luinabli more ni there w the roof liety of the watc ^ened in The f steep to ^"ound lit correct i< impossibj or a Joaf ( can be de water dri and point! -md thougl culty of r of the air. only by so we cannot ing anion demons. Carefull; trated into was impec blesome pa of our guid palpitation oards discovi ncss ; I coverec man be room, i ^ perso glitterin with ma "p as a was perf §ing up 1 ^eet with( This V America and to J gloom, than any in the cen rock or jacent gri and the c| whole fiel^ of which, colour, I Hence, ^ walked s( PEDESTRIAN TOUU. 61 the le of own indle rviil hold e was upon IS and ctites, :ialect, ; lower artlier ; et, too ly per- n, were Icovered wound )ugh the le vvar- tbe pas- 1 wenty-live feet perpendicular, below the level of the entrance. One of the rooms, is remarka- ble for the resemblance of its walls to new pine boards upon the side of a house ; another has no discoverable top, running oft' into endless dark- ness ; and another, the thirteenth, has the floor covered knee deep with water. Figures of hu- man beings are traced upon the sides of the lowest room, from which, a small crevice will admit a person's head, into a most superb chamber, glittering and spangling from pillars and arches with most astonishing beauty. A person brought up as a trophy, part of a sparry column, which was perfectly straight and cylindrical : in drag- ging up his load, he sustained a heavy fall of eight feet without material injury. This was the first cavern I had visited in America ; and it appeared much more intricate, and to possess much more of that horrible gloom, which strikes with awe the intruder, than any of those which I had formerly explored erbeuigl j„ ^j^g central parts of England. Abundance of legaineul pQ^I^ or quartz-crystals are found upon the ad- atinos-| jacent grounds. A noil was fresh ploughed, and the crystals being exposed to the sun, the whole field glittered with the dazzling minerals, of which, (those most remarkable for size and colour, I gathered a number. ^h 1 wasi \vever, 1' lower- range isi laving iti- [the ap- Hence, crossing the new bridge of Canajoharie, [died an(l|lwalked some distance by moonlight, and put up 6 < ( I 1 s ,1 ;\i.-; ' '.] ^■'^i{ ■ m m s H I; i I illll f k rn oie rEDESTUlAN TOLH. in the vilTage of Palatine upon Garoga creek. The valley becomes more contracted between high granitical ridges, as v/e proceed towards Little Falls. PVagments piled upon fragments in wild irregularity, now surround us, and we find the Mohawk calmly flowing among the hidden depths of chasms, which earthquakes seem to have opened, which dashing waters have stove asunder, or which the silent stream has slowly worn, draining the once great lakes to the west- ward. As we wind our toilsome way to the top of the clifls,and survey the rugged glen, which is here too narrow for the road, a deep roar draws the attention, which is disturbed every moment by the labourers of the Great Canal, exploding rocks, and tilling the air with flying splinters. All at once the descending current, white, sur- <>-ing, dashing and roaring, opens t^'on our eager gaze, and adds tenfold interest to the horrific scenery, above, below and around us. Tall hickories and sugar-maples, proudly shake their branches upon airy heights ; and from every fissure among the immense blocks, heaped high and imminent about the falls, luxuriant shrubs I heard ft and bushes depend, and scatter their innumerable I train ma flowers upon the surface of the Mohawk. I corner o Not only the works of Nature are at thisl halted, place surprisingly grand, but the works of man! air, and also, are wonderful and well worth particular! mountain notice. Nature trembles on her throne, as manlscended t undermines her empire, and penetrates through! parade w her adamantine barriers. A dam is thrown ovellwere abo thev rapi( work when cient propo and th n\\\ tc Little ] stone e( Proc alluvial sinking not a lit swiftly ^ the rive sively b( cultivate by low a nouses Oj middle oj by the m PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 93 at this of man particular! as maul tbTOUgb] the river, forming a capacious bay above tbc rapids ; and the course of tbe Canal is now worked through the rocky mountains, in a part, where many of the great projectors of the an- cient and modern worlds, would have siniled at proposals for the undertaking. A large r/ry- hridge leads the turnpike over a broad ravine ; and the old locks, for navigating the river, are still to be seen in the vicinity of the village of Little Falls ; which does itself, in some of its fine stone edifices, exhibit bold specimens of building. Proceeding in view of German Flats, a rich alluvial district, I plodded my way, rising and sinking along pleasant undulating banks, and not a little amused by the square sails of boats, swiftly glidinff thrCU^n the bushy margins of the river ; until Herkimer Flats spread exten- sively before me, in one perfect level, highly cultivated and bounded as with a wall of defence, by low and woody circumjacent hills. The vi^hite houses of Herkimer were seen collected near tlie middle of the plain. Martial music accompanied by the beat of the drum, could be distinctly heard from the village ; and soon after a long train marched in glittering array, around the corner of the street to a spacious green, and halted. The blast of a bugle floated shrill in the air, and resounded back from the neighbouring mountains. All again was silent ; and as I de- scended to the spot, I contemplated the military Iparade with pleasure and enthusiasm. There were about a hundred strong hardy men, whose .'ft ' !l '3 \\ I ■! * ■ 'Si I , 04 PEDESTRIAN TOUK« features, though not very delicate, declared with what SHhsfactiou they suffered the fatigues of the day — for the glorious purpose of sustaining the liberties of a country, of which they inhabited so remote, and unattainable a portion. ♦"*" Fourteen miles over a level country, brought me late at night, to the far-fajiied town of Utica. - ,. i»iatefii. • .., i.|( ,0^. "^jr!,-.- *' •' ■ '^ ^>■)l)il^^u.m■ r '•■ ' >■ <,, ^4 • ! : > t . •.»;j » > <• vi*'i i! ji r^ib Jy!- *' I t ««v rT , - * , -t i ,.' .dl .1 r t , f" i t. r * iC< r rno .', \t : un '.. The V isonegr produce passes tc foreign ^ to the in of its be with sue them at half mile Fine air) santly ei grape-vi Thusfl country '^^as awai Mbitants with .1 « . J ' 1 - 1 ,■ ■ ■ -' ' ' ftht r ■ 1 : r ^ . 1 _ ' , C the •li' . r^ if<>^.l'■>^i, .:, ' ■ ■ , *• • . 5 bited i. --^ • •ffji.', ; . '* ■ ''■-* . \' ought 1 ,< ' •;;) "i- vn 0. ./M^.- CHAPTER in .-,-.-•■ „uv#f f- .'■ '. 'n.iw^i) 'i: ' • ;:* . . tUi^ ' ^ iJ-i ) i; .h rnOM UTICA, TO THE lltAD OF I AKE CVYlC/*. ... --1.' ^ .^, I 1 Friday, Seplcmbti- 7, 1S2I. ■Wt'i %.i'A,^ «r. . i .. 'i/» The western turnpike from Albany to Utica, is one great channel, through which, the abundant produce of the remote counties of the State passes to the eastern markets, and through which foreign goods of all kinds are brought in return to the inhabitants of the country : and on account of its being so well frequented, it is supplied with such a number of inns, that we will 'meet them at least every mile, and sometimes every half mile without any intervening private houses. Pine airy farm-houses are also numerous, plea- santly embosomed amidst orchards and wild grape-vines. Thus far the condition and cultivation of the country accorded with my expectations : for I was aware, that, wherever the old German in- habitants were situated, useless woods would be 6 ♦ ■I' V' jtii 1' ! 1 ■' ^1 1* !!3- 1= li 1 1? I*f 06 PEDLSIHIAN TOUU. ■I l 1 4 •: cleared away, and agriculture would be I'ouiiJ flourishing in its greatest pcrfeclion. But like most travellers from the populous seaboard of our states, I began now to expect, in proportion as I receded from the vale of the Mohawk, to meet with less cultivation — to traverse a hideous wilderncfis, where a few log huts might have in- truded themselves upon the domains of savages and wild beasts, and where stones, stumps, swamps, ravines, creeks and all the formidable oppositions on bad roads, would resist each step as I advanced. The sequel will show how much I was disappointed. What appeared to be swelled accounts of interested travellers, de- lighting to boast in hyperbolical terms of the scenes they had passed over, proved to be not only just statements, but even to fall short of accurate descriptions, •..^...rrir t > •li^,-'] Utica is not one of those common villages con- sisting of only two rows of houses, situated on the sides of a main road ; but is one of those plea- sant towns, like Schenectady or Newburgh, which have an agreeable variety oi' streets. Stand- ing atthe bifurcation ofthe two principal ones, we have a prospect scarcely equalled by any in our most sumptuous capital cities. On one hand, high stores and ware-houses are perceived, full oif commotion, and the doors and walks flowing with purchasers ; on the other, capacious mansions decorated with front gardens and trees ; and above them both, ime steeples and towering meet- ing-houses and academies, that evince the rising power bridges P^y up J pedimer through portance sect it fr The C complete west and ' "pied, w pared to i number oi I painted. The St iViontezum yo calj upo J when a chs prs and pa b^' Two f Jem to a n '*r equal U d smooth] anks ofthe orough. Or iilages, as w 'g closed, a ^"^ly erect e place last 'Rome is on th 'cominaQded il '&«'•» with a pai PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 67 power and magnificence of the town. Two bridges cross the Mohawk at Utica, and boats ply up and down the river for miles, without im- pediment. The Great Western Canal passes, through the outskirts, and adds greatly to its im- portance, whilst the chief roads of the State inter- sect it from all quarters. • - The Canal at this time, was finished and completely navigable, ninety-six miles to the west and several miles to the eastward. Boats oc-' oupied, what appeared like artificial quays, com- pared to natural ; and over the Canal spanned a number of little bridges, very neatly made and painted. • •• '■ ^^ ' The stage-boat Oneida-Chief, started for I Montezuma, at eight ; but having some persons to call upon, I delayed proceeding until noon, Iwhen a chance boat, intended partly for passen- jgers and partly for goods, set off for Canasera- ;a. Two stout black horses were attached tan- lem to a rope from the prow, and with a velo- city equal to that of some stage-coaches, we dart- |d smoothly between the straight and regular janks of the canal. We passed through Whites- )rough, Oriskaay, Rome, and other increasing lillages, as well as new settlements, before even- jig closed, and at night, stopped at a large and Bwly erected Inn, five or six miles beyond |e place last mentioned.* .a,,' Rome is on the site of the celebrated Fort Stanwiz. This foft icommaQded in 1777 bjr Colonel Gansevoort, when Colonel St. Ilger, with a part of Burgoyne's arm^f and a great many ladianir, li ■' .K i\ <' \yu ,'i i ;i! If 11) ■ jii IK ' y ■ li j» f • » t- ■ t 6B PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 01 hose gowns whimsi deeply delay o of one, J under \ over. ; from ( ^oot, alor what I w Of the whole rout of this great canal from Al- bany to Lake Erie, the middle section, between CTtica and Montezuma, is the most level, marshy and disagreeable for passengers. Its course winds for the greater part, through pestilential swamps, which have been chosen as least expen- sive to the government, and which disease claims for its own, bv leveling to a bed of sick- ness every hardy agriculturist that attempts a settlement. This however, and another disad- vantage in having too many low cross bridges, I l • i~' from \)ngest in i sides of a hollow, through which the outlet oitates, stretc Owasco Lake flows. Many of its houses arfs, over the ^ of brick. Ipposite ba Approaching towards Cayuga, we enter fJ Having a the first upon those level plains, of which iw Ithaca, I whole country for several hundred miles wesi7 way to t ward, entirjly consists. The farms, howeveprds; an m PEDESTRIAN lOUR. n It ov tage- lorns. Ashed ice of stake, nigbt, liantly r was illumi- ion. ses are uneven look rich ; orchards abound, and peach-trees, which to the eastward, scarcely produce a dozen good fruit in the season, are here hanging to the ground with their loads of ripe peaches. The nearer we come to the lake, the more attention we perceive given to horticulture. Few /arm- houses are destitute of their flower as well as kitchen-gardens, and one fine mansion, where we stopped on the way, is remarkable for the beautiful walks and tasteful arrangements of its pleasure grounds. The broad white wa*;ers of Cayuga Lake, salu- ted our eyes all of a sudden, with its refreshing \uburi:i I expanse spreading north and south till lost > to thelamong dim and dusky hills. Pleasingly agi- ;mity oiltated by a cool southerly breeze, it appeared of theldoubly welcome to me, especially after being he ne^lso long immured amongst fbrrists. Ripe fieHs [xtensivelof corn and stuccoed cottaj.:es were scattered in theppon the farther shores , ie[;tiar nd ibing head ithaca ►le and n life, small . They ck suU ow and but not ould not 5 abound At night the moon rose in full splendour, and reflected its uncertain beams from the glittering waves, as I strolled under a long and natural vista of Linden trees upon the beach, and thought of the dispossessed Cayugas, a val- liant tribe of the Iroquois, who once inhab- ited the surrounding territories, and still lay claim to the Lake, and its borders. "^Fhe oars of a skin* splashed in the water near the opposite shore ; a whipperwill whistled his melancholy notes in the branches of a neiirhbourinti; oak. In the passage to the head of the lake, wc topped at a number of places on each side, the ii of tneB principal of which were Union-springs and Au- sulphatel roYa, both handsome villages; and in the evening ty, yet sol ^.g landed two miles from Ithaca. Cayuga lake reference! ,g thirty-five miles and a half in length, and hat geti-i generally three miles in breadth. The banks and boats! ^,.p gteep and wood^' ; and the depth of the water outlet a^lsuch, that in soiie parts a sounding line has not anal '^vei!,.^^^ljg(^l ^[^g bottom. My friend in Ithaca would y not bWiiot permit me upon any consideration to remain betwee!!;^j. ^]^^ hotel, but obliged me to make his '.ouse a ' alluvionBj^^^^-jg . r^^^ pressed me to stay a numl)er of days. various»,^^j.^gj, ^^y^, to examine the surprising grandeur nimal leinfl beauty of the scenery in that vicinity, and tbf THE FALLS OF ITHACA.'^ The state oi New- York, in the variety of ii> :enes, the great number of its lakes, and the * By particular request, the substance of thjs description of the Fall? f(hn.c{>, was published iii a New-York paper as' soon n« the Tom n t ive all t'i I chasms )ot so de Le Cayu^ .'1 r » . k 'I' 1 , 1 •iii: «'■■ /\' .W lit . 'i rl3 ImmJ -■51 t ^i-, \ » :■>' lit In * ' 1 \:W\ I ;■ f, I J' l\^ ' \ !:1' 74 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. beauty of its mountains, rivers, and water-falls, stands unrivalled above every other state in the Union. Many of its copious mineral fountains and its lofty cascades have attracted travellers from distant quarters of the globe — and many others as extraordinary, are still embosomed amidst the impenetrable forests of the western regions, unseen by man — or if newly exposed by the hand of cultivation, still viewed with careless indifterence by the passing rustic, with the sound alone of crashing rocks and prowling beasts, to disi urb their uniform tranquility. Even 0*7 the well frequented rout to the Grand Falls ol Niagara !;^ud the larger Lakes, are places, in which Nature wields her sceptre with unbounded beau- tv and sublimity: the tourist, uninformed of the scene, or else indifferent about a place as yet little known, hurries onward, contenting himself with the cursory description ^f some neighbour- ing inn-keeper. Ithaca is a place of this description. As th( outlet o»' Cayuga lake has, in process of time, worn away the rocky bed over which its waters ilescend to the Oswego river, the surface of tin La ie has h>vvered, and left at its head, an allu- vial plain, and at its northern extremity, the wide| jnarshes of Cayuga and Montezuma. In ever} other part, ihe hanks rise loftily to the height oi| ihree or four luuuhed feet, impressing the mim with the idea of a great cleft in the earth, halil vras cocrjyj'eled. I trust it will not be esteemed a plagiarism of in I .>wn, in ■•■!;.S£rv!ng'n*tir!y ill'" .»!«nie lai\gMJjg*;. iiiled ^ fy-iive •>ack-^ populc every s 'jy the great w die hea( with th bids fai fion, an ornamer bottom c the moi ed, runs ^nd maki che Laki tumbles «^ast of t ^n tlie ro inouutaii dismal gi the shag^ ^ive leaps and thirty i'his is ti iiave had ^emarkabl them, in t a.Ford ful ibe freque '^'hich was iUi I hf' PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ?^> jstern edby reless h the )wling Even rails ol I which i beau- l of the as yet himseh rhhouv- As tht f time, waters I i of the m allu-l he wide! 11 ever} I eight oil Ihe inivvj I'th, hall l,i«m of 111 iilled with water. Upon the plain where, twen- ty-(ive years ago, only a few huts of solitary i)ack-vvoods-men was to be seen, now stands the populous village of Ithaca. Enclosed on almost every side by beautiful mountains, surrounded by the most fertile lands, situated on one of the ijreat western turnpikes from New burgh, and at ihe head of a navigable lake, which communicates tvith the Grand Canal, this flourishing village bids fair to become, in manufactures, popula- tion, and extensive buildings, one of the first ornaments of the inland country. From the bottom of a deep valley or ravine, worn between the mountains, Nine-mile-Creek, as it is term- ed, runs west of the village through the plain, and makes a navigable channel for two miles to the Lake. The Cascadilla, a romantic brook, tumbles from a hollow chasm, and continues «^ast of the village till it unites with Fall River, [n the rocky substance of the highest part of the mountain, half a mile east of the Cascadilla, a dismal gulf gaps dark and wide, and far within the shaggy clifts steep after steep, in six succes- sive leaps. Fall River rolls it current four hundred and thirty-eight i'eet downwards to the plain. Fhis is the tremendous scene, which those who have had opportunities of comparing with other remarkable places, assert to be superior to all of them, in the sublimest touches of nature, and to a.Ford full as much pleasure to the beholder as the frequented Falls of Niagara: an assertion vhich was confirnaed in my opinion, when I ar- i i ', tft i f 11 ■' ■-) 'I HI '•! I ■• i). ; ^1 r; t t • ) t ? r • 'X ' ■ 7G rEDLSifSIAN TOUR. rived at Niagara a few days after, and saw that rataract with little more admiration than this re- markable place excited. My obliging entertainer, whose acquaintance with the way, enable him to skip from rock to rock without any risk, and whom I with diffi- culty followed, lead me first to a mill-dam, belov> the lowermost leap of the river : here the sides o\ (he mountain rise abruptly on the left, parti}' concealing with trees and bushes the horizontal layers of slate rock which form the basis. The river falls directly before us, over an even ledge, 116 feet in one broad unbroken sheet, and aftei foaming at the bottom and sending up volumes of spray, expands into a smooth limpid pond. The gloomy sides of the chasm are seen at a dib- tance above. Ailixed against the over-hanging rock on our right, which rears its ragged bro\\ more than two hundred feet perpendicular ; the raceway or water-course of the mills, winds around at an immense elevation, till it is hidden from view behind a projecting craig. Scanty bushes cover the face of the precipice, and Uk mills arranged one beneath another, stand on the descending slope of the mountain. An old man of an enterprising cl>aracter, hav- ing circumspectly exammed the suitableness ot Fall River for mill-seats, purchased the right and immediately commenced his operations by taking a rope, which he fastened to the stump ol a tree above the precipice, and lowering himself down about seventy feet from the top ; where z I. that s re- tanci ck to diffi- belov> (ies 01 parti}' zontal The ledgt-N id aftci olume> pond. i a di^- langing d brow ar; the winds hidden Scant)' nd the on the |er, hav- ;ness ot ^e right [;ions b} :unnp o\ IhimseU where 'i * 1 .i: /\'.: 'I k ? • i\ ^'-i'i * ! ^M - ' t \\\ ' S'jl rj; ff!" Ui' lU m mi \ Hi^ laboui ance, i a dam around mills. fie whil oarefull ^vay, ni 'lewas s since be <'ut into 'tbove, a i'here w; betneen 'Jsings of A small f art way u[ jiooseill-suj jirtificial Gle ^(i dir€GtIy I '^ first falU 'Pon this gi, PCOeSTRIAN TOUR. i7 swinging in the air, he made with the greatest labour and perieverance, and with little assist- ance, the raceway which conveyed the water from a dam of his construction, back of the lower falls, around the rocks, to the wheels of five different mills. It is humourously related, that every lit- tle while, he would quickly pull hrniself up, and carefully look arouiu' ^^i any body passing that way, niiErht thougliH y cut the rope by which he was suspended. The water to the mills has- since been turned from the old race, into a canal < ut into the mountain, seven feet wide, open iibove, and fifty or sixty feet below the surface, riiere was an obnoxious swamp on the plain, between which and this place, as forming the first lisings of the mountain, were high gravelly hills. A small stream of water was conducted from the .anal to the hills, which in the course of two weeks had such large portions swept away, that ihe unwholesome swamp was soon after trans- ibrmed into healthy fields of corn. Unless ropes are used it is impossible to enter lo the second falls of Fall River, by any other means than the canal and raceway. Even this method is so dangerous that very few attempt it. We made a circuit around the mills, ascended part way up the hill, and poising ourselves upon a I loose ill-supported line 6f boards, penetrated the sirtificial cleft, when turning suddenly, we emerg- Vi\ directly over the pond, a few yards in front of lie first falls. Scarcely able to balance ourselves I ipon this giddy height, we look down with tcr- i t 111 t i ii IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // /q ^ 5.^% 1.0 1.1 £ Itt 12.0 IL25 ffl 1.4 I 1.6 '/ V^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WiST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SM (716) S72-4503 ^\ V '^ 4s '^**- '4^%^ '^ A 78 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. a- il fij,; ill n h«' ■• j1 ; ji,, . il.i •: ?. I [• I. : u ■ I'M- f J ror, whilst the foaming falls of the stream sound in our ears, and the rugged cliffs hang threaten- ing over our heads. Continuing along the race- way, here clambering under the rocks, and here hanging by the roots of trees, we drop ourselves at last at the water's edge, where it is necessary to take off sboesand stockings and wade with the greatest care along the slippery brink of the stream, where a wrong step might immerge a solitary adventurer in a watery grave. There is a piece of ground in the gulf which the river does not cover. Square fragments are scattered over it in heaps, as if some antique edi- fice had lately fallen to the dust, and Walure, pleased with its demolition, had strewed among the stones, her sweetest flowering shrubs to con- ceal it wholly from the world. From this place is obtained the noblest view of the dreadful ob- jects by which the spectator is enveloped.* Liko the mouldering walls and pilasters of some loft} palace of ancient Greece, upon the projecting Cornishes of which, the face of magnificence still smiles through crumbling stones and adven- titious weeds; so the vast c raises of the chasm mount stupendous on the right and on the left : their nodding heads stoop to viev/ their broken foundations : their bush-crowned summits lift on high the half rooted-hemlocks : with pile upon pile, which the industrious hand of man seems to have heaped, stretches from end to end of the long vist't interesting place at th ' emarkable for the oartr^J , . "'''^' »° 'ess "'«f• (• t ' in the course of time, part of their foundations, lean from side to side, till their leafy tops almost meet above the centre. A solemn gloom per- vades the whole of tlie capacious Hall. Scarce- ly a ray of the scorching midsummer sun obtrudes into this cool retreat. With a hollow murmur, the water ripples around the floor, leaving the tjrcater part dry ; while plants, whicb sprout from the crannies, load the air with a delicious fragrance. As imagination figures the uncan- opied theatres of Rome and Greece with their galleries, their actors, their curtains, their masks, the transitory wish passes over the mind, that, one day, the bare rock of this temple of Nature may be concealed by the brilliant countenances of spectators, and the voice of a modern Phile- mon roil in musical accents around the wall.— Polite assemblies have indeed already convened here. About two months previous, tea was serv- 1 the wale ed in rural style, to a large concourse of ladie^lagjiity q/ and gentlemen, in which the tables were coni the fallen structed of large slabs of slate Another party oil "'pacious the Misses of the village assembled soon after. ItlCascadiilj must have been a novel and interesting sight, toland tlfty > fmd so gay a company in a place so unusal; whilst.! rather sir as in the feasts of the golden age, the voice oicircle is '^jocund mirth" would rise at times and minglJHanting b with the murmurs of the falling brook. '**" f 'ternate s The broad ravine of Nine-mile Creek, extend§lifferent s half a mile to the ledge of rocks over which itwibbons arc water dashes about fifty feet. Many beautiful" front, £q and romantic walks are afforded among the (•le cascade. '"'"■°" '" ""« ^<=n.arka- We left the chaise at Goodwin'. P-ece of groun.l, which ;" ctlfc ?°'"'' " '^^•'" very extremity, and whirh "^*''.'''^"''^« to th<. '"^e the ,and 'bonuh: o , /nf *;'|-^ ':--^ "ver, by the ,»r-„l...t . " 'Mississippi "- ravin'e o. b'dt" hi" ""'" °'' ^=""' °« '• Arough an immense ...ili- P^^.*^^<* ""e mile 'he water, anT leU los"! """ "'"''"' "■ ^'gi'ity of squirrel, "^'"'"^^''^'PP'ng with th.- '•>« fallen rr'fX'st.?/"'''"''-- ■ , spacious amphitheatrr ; J I *"^"' ""*"^'-^ " •'»d «% yards in dian.e,;: Lh °"" '"""'^"' '"her sinks, above h.l,:"*"'"*«*8''f.o. h'>cle is nearly coVpl! l;'""*" "^'- l^"* wonting by whichTf ':l:r x-'^ "'^' P*" alternate strata of eZh, ^^' "'« '"p. Kent shades. X'riTbr^'''^''- V'bbons around the brim wk' k u '"*' '•"' *" " 'fro„t,forthepX"'rftt"\''^P''°''-'' ^"P-it.eatre. Over aLl^ X:.!^ >^ , ^1 '\ I if ' ■ * I 'I . i "I ■, if Ml- f ijii. ■ III ■ 1; it , t4 PKDKSTRIAN TOUR. shelf, projecting beyond the uniform surface ot the rock, the slream pours down, like water from a tea-pot spout, more than two hundred feet. <^ushin^ over twelve or tifteen feet, and leaving the wall behind the cascade quite dry. Beforr it has fallen halfway, it becomes rain and spray, and creates such a strong bree/e, that we feel the mist blowing into o»ir faces, at the distance of a hundred yards. It makes a hissing sound ap- proaching the noise of a heavy shower ot" rain fal- ling upon the smooth surface of a river. Vapours roll in thin aerial clouds for a considerable dis- tance around ; and only by approaching within them, can the surprising height of the wonderful water-Adl he properly conceived. The bare faced rock scOwls awful, tremendous, and gloomy, adorned with a rough edge on the summit ot cedars and scathed pine trees. With little cost to the imagination, pilasters, arches, nitches, en- lablatures, are figured upon the face of the walls, in airthe proud magnilicence of old ivy crowned Gothic ruins. So diminutive do objects appear beneath the tremendous precipices, that a heap of fragments which have fallen from the shelf to the bottom of the cascade, of which one piecr alone would require the efforts of twenty oxen and as many men to remove, appears, at a smal! distance off, no more than a light waggon load of building stone. Large trees, which grow witliin the amphitheatre are but bushes. Thel cascade itself, on account of the terrific height of the surrounding cliffs, appears not only lesc situj A node fail, ill siJ the V Jisof at th >ough Some totteri weath< appiyi gantic into Ic valley. Ithac liouses. timelsj like son person I'ocks, k and case rers of n whilst th and grati tive obse] ^tisfacto] The CO <>f a hu l^Uh lurface ot ater from I red feet. J leaving . Beforr nd spray, ^e feel the J nee of a Dund ap- f rain fal- V a pours rable dis- ng within vonderful >are faced glconiy, unimit of litlle cost tches, en- tile walls. ^ crowned ts appear It a heap ie shelf to 3ne piecT entv oxen at a sniai! 5gon load lich grow ^es. The fic height only lesc ^ I^BDESTRIAN TOUH. ^ situation. " '° ••« "» ^"y other Astonished with the height nf .k nodding cliffs anH A ?"' ™ ""« ""mbling. fall, we^tj^; ,0' iV'"^"'*' "^""^ °f the '" -ience. one o/^ t f ™ « 'orT '''"'"^ the works or nature. The rfTf •'*"' ""°"« "S of the lapse of t^. ^ho dechn.ng sun warned »' the botfroThriiTar^''^^^^^^^ >ought airain tho P . ^ J^'^^"'*'^ %ss; and we w oSSrhicLTfa'; ';f '-' — ^- totterincr as w^ no Ji , argillaceous, were -ther^in o one'r oft ^-^ V"' """' "^ ">« applying the slS ; ' trS'a'r *'''^'"* gantic masses slowly L^7„r /J^"^'' ^^ g'" into loose earthXtfrZ •'::''' ''"'''■^" valley. P ' *t ""c bottom of the ho«r2:„^:tx^^ "•»el spent there rema n^ r J'^''"^''- "^he «hort hke some of thSe Tn " ?!^ "P"" "^ '"'■"ory person looks back ^T ''"''' *° "^hich eve,^ ^ocks, leaping crevteslt T\ ^'''""'^"■'g and cascades is IZlLe f 1 *'°"«'' """«'» rers of nature can duK,^ ^'^"""^ ■"" ''^"'^'^ , 'hilst the renew^ scen« "^'T"^' «nd which. »nd gratifying I!^47,^\e've P'^'^-'e ever fresh «;e obserLfXr^ tter.t"?r- hatisfactory inferences. , —^'"S truths and The contemplated college is tl L .. -. 8 ' t ♦ :* tt .11 1- %i i!Ht ! iS ■I rit 1 * Li ' t| . . ^ ■ • i i» ill ; h r^ ' ' .Iff -IH- I I ,1 •.« '^ ^;;i! fl fHi: !l;t 80 P£D£STRIAM TOL'U. and four stories high ; and is to sland up- on he highest knoll of the hill adjacent to the village: separate wings upon the same elera- lioii, are to be appropriated as academies. For the site of the college, no spot could be chosen more eligible than this. Inexhaustible stores for the study of natural history will al- ways be at hand, and for all other sciences, the scholar will be secluded in a romantic retirement, which will give additional zest to his researches in their various branches. From the windows oi' the institution, the wide surface of lake Cayuga will be extended in the view : the distant moun- tains will be seen, fading into an indistinguishable mixture of clouds, water and land. ' " Some large literary establishment has long been wanting in the western part of our State ; and as the inhabitants are becoming more and more numerous; and populous towns fast rising; the wealthy land-owners require for the education of their children a more convenient institution than either that of Hamilton or Schenectady. Ithaca will be the place, wherein all those minor academies and institutions, at pre- sent spread over the fertile and well inhabited I countries beyond thQ first of the parallel lakes to. Erie, will be centred into one greatj tlourishincr temple of science. '^ » **• Ithaca may be considered in two parts : thel main portion situated on the plain, consisting! of handsome houses, a bank, a masonic hall, court lK>use and tbiee churches: and tt - ih I • :■ •I r. . >l PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 87 up- o 1^ elcta- emies. aid be ustiblc irill al- ;e», the rement, icarches dows ot Cayuga t moun- uishabk lesser village, at the mills of Fall River, where a small collection of dwelling houses has buen formed by the millers and their families. Both parts have a gay and extensive appearance from the circumjacent heights. The inhabitants arc rich, enterprizing, and great lovers of bustle and commotion, (a striking feature throughout all the towns of the newly settled countries.) Drums were beating in the streets, bugles sounding, and the hotels loud with public meetings, during my stay at the head of Lake Cayuga. n ••i). I - < ,1 r • § ♦ ■ . 1 r. ' ii'v P ■' < i 1' . ,! i:.- irts: the! :oQBistiDg| lie ball, and tt - 1 / , 1 't «.^ ' •'-■'•j' > - » \i ■. '^ .' .! I I Hi- .' *\ i!i i W ■i "• ( V 1. 1^ if ■, ,» ' i' ! i ;. _ '. 1 • '■ r, : . r i 1 ^ -'. r.- r • i '. if • f '^ { > f: / ' 1 r C i ■ t ^f 1 ^ ' i :' 1 1 i i 1 llif* 8S PKDESTRIAN TOUR CHAPTER IV. FR©M ITUACA, TO THE 0ENE8SEE, AND STRAieilXS OF NIAGARA. Tbunday, September 13, 1821 That piece of land belonging to Tompkins and Seneca counties, and included between the two lakes of Seneca and Cayuga, is the most beautiful and most valuable of all that fertile country west of the Skeneateles, of which it forms nearly the central portion. Otisco, Ske- neateles, Owasco, Cayuga, Seneca, Crooked, and Canandaigua lakes, all flowing from south to north, and some of them either communicating or about to communicate with the Great Canal, irrigate the luxuriant banks of lands seldom to be found more productive, and cast a feature over the tract through which they are so thickly inter- spersed, such as no other part of North America can present. Gypsum abounds on all sides ; salt gushes in strong solution from never failing foun- tains : fish swarm in the lakes and streanvs, andj innumerable flocks of game occupy the woodsi the whole year round. But the favoured space of land between Cayuga and Seneca lakes, can lot (O Bro Modern as to o*€rl PEDESTRIAN TOUR. gg <"e banner and p^e^ ' f "r -" """8 I'U.e '.e pleases, and .hentlr"'" '° '"•'^•'' Oswego River will . . *'^"*''* °""«' and "section,. pitch:;"'d :„ rs rv" """•■ though there ar*» nf ^^^^ ''^"^» J and, ■'Picuous edifices upTn S ^^''"'''"S ''* Per- "•e name of the to^^hil ^u"' "' """^ ""d %«es. reminded mfo? '" "'"'' " ''^'"'»' ^-• fering a J^ZZtZ''^'''''^'''' P^los— , JNeptune on the shore of i-^^o.er„ iCzriirtTr- • Ih^. - 8 * ^«^*'f' y 79. > .; ,> I Hi 'I I I li' 1 I 8,1 >> >s SD pedestrijCn tour. and those founded upon the nearest eminences, enjoy a commanding prospect of the waters of Cayuga. - A mile beyond Ovid, the road strikes Seneca Lake, which is thirty-three and a half miles long, and about four miles wide. Advancing some- times upon the beach, and sometimes upon the precipitous banks, I came in sight of Geneva, distinguishable at a very great distance, on ac- count of its elevated situation. The court-house and churches, stand high and towering, whilst the stores and dwellings stretch down the decli- vity to the water. Geneva has several moral and literary institutions. Altering my course, I advanced over a fine variegated district of sixteen miles, to Canan- daigua. This large and important village, stands near the outlet of Canandaigua Lake, and ascends two miles in length, in one wide street to the top of a hill, from which is to be seen its adjoining lake, like part of a broad and extremely picturesque 'river. The principal buildings, both public and private, are at the upper end of the street. Law- yers, judges, and wealthy merchants have their commodious and fashionable houses here, distinct from one another, surrounded by elegant gardens, and each with an office standing separate and advanced nearer to the pavf^ment. A personi will scarcely believe himself two hundred and twelve miles from Albany, when he walks througli| this newly grown town,. and witnesses the ap- pearance of wealth and nobility exhibitedl es Roch passes parts c( continu whole ^eet, wh 'ialf,an( cipice cataract mendoui Carthage Wionume 1^ PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 91 Seneca s long, some- on the ieneva, on ac- t-house , whilst le decli- oral and around him, in the princely halls of the inhahi« tants. I left Canandaigua, and proceeding over a country rather more rugged than usual, of a loose sandy texture, I passed through Victor, a mere hamlet, and shortly after struck upon the Great Canal again, near Pittsford. The works are here upon a large scale. The chan- nel of the canal is elevated upon a high earthen mound which the labourers were busily finishing; At a great depth beneath the mound, the river Iron- dequoit is conveyed through along and very large aqueduct or funnel, of most excellent workman- shi p. Inconcievable quantities of earth are trans- ported from a distance, in raising this difficult portion of the canal: the whole section to the Tonnewanta is now nearly completed. THE GENESSEE. The bell tolled from a Gothic spire, as I enter- ed the populous and fast increasing town of Rochester-ville, upon the Genessee. That river passes through the to'vrn, dividing it into two parts connected by two lengthy bridges ; and continuing a little farther, suddenly rolls its whole volume down a precipice of ninety-six feet, when it expands, gently flows a mile and a half, and again dashes headlong down another pre- cipice of seventy-six feet. Near this latter cataract, perched upon the edge of a most tre- mendous gulf, stands the forsaken village of Carthage, which, like Carthage of old, remains a monument of fallen grandeur, a mournful con- ■ • I t I I i i ^1 K. > * f 92 pedesthian tour. trast to the Tunis of the Genessee, that already assumes the commerce of the great inland sea of Ontario. Substantial stone mills and manufactories are seen in great numbers, arranged upon the banks of the never-failing stream. Viewed from tlie hill, Rochester presents a gay picture of some important commercial city ; its stone, brick and wooden houses, the Great Canal running across thejiver upon a strong and costly aqueduct, the spires, the meeting houses, the hotels, in short all we behold, causes the mind to recur to the iscenes of Babel, erecting an establishment which shall defy the rage of time. From one spot, I counted eighteen houses in the act of building. The custom is to have the gable ends facing the streets; and here we find the singular mode of raising the peaks, square, like the battlements of a castle. Sunday, After attending service in the forenoon, I procured a man to show me the way, down a rugged and slippery path to the foot of the Higher Falls. It commenced raining exces- sively; yet the view of these beautiful falls, was a gratification, which richly paid for the in< >n- venience of wet apparel. The ledge or preci- pice extends obliquely, half a mile across the channel of the river, and looses itself in the oppo- site perpendicular banks. Nearest the east side, where the angle is acute, falls the broadest sheet of water, pitching over with astonishing velocity ft* I »^ ->.i ',1 -f:.'i\ J 'I ' 1 J • and n ered i the to tatari Fro the G< a decl .?ulf, ii river d obtain! observ( ful "fly ants of ing arc! The bi Archim When 1 pected bf ston beams o close up rickety what son dir castle from the been airy gentlema that a sue lifted the carrying i in the hot rent of th( es are banks (in Uie some ck and across ict, the 1 short to the shment jm one act of )le ends lingular ike the in the he way, foot o{ exces- |U8, was in< m- Ir preci- oss the le oppo- LSt side, it sheet elocity PEDESTRIAN TOVB. 03 and noise. The exposed bed of the stream, cov- ered with shrubby trees, intercepts its course on tne top of the ledge, and forms another smaller cataract at the farther extremity. From this place 1 went along the west bank of the Genessee as far as Carthage, and descending a declivity to the verge of the broad and deep gulf, in the bottom of which could be seen the river dwindled in appearance to a little brook, I obtained a partial view of the Lower Fall, and' observed the remaining hutments of that wonder- ful "flying bridge," which the enterprising inhabit- ants of Carthage long since threw in one astonish- ing arch, from the summit of one bank to the other. The building of this bridge is one of the great Archimidean undertakings of the modern age. When told of these remaining butments, I ex- pected to find them substantially constructed t)f stone, properly fitted to receive Ibe bulky beams of the arch ; instead of which, there stood close upon the crumbling brink, on either side, a rickety frame-work, more like the skeleton of what some people call a yankee meeting-house or air castle, than the support of a bridge. Judging from the butments, the undertaking must have been airy indeed : and in confirmation of this, a gentleman informed me, (creditably perhaps,) that a sudden gust of wind on a blustering day, lifted the bridge from its two extremes, and carrying it through the air, laid it upside down, in the bottom of the gulf, where the spring cur- rent of the Genessee soon bore it in triumph into .. ■ ; ,-.:' \ ■«. i ■ ' t h •», ! :. s * I i ^ir <. i ; f1. I- h U ill? » •i' « ; 1,^' it; y4 PEDESTUIAN TOUR. lake Ontario! The toll-gate, closed, and the toll- keeper's house are still standing, and looks as it lately built ; which might prove that the bridge did not fall through age. From the surface of the river to the arch, was one hundred and ninety- eight feet. During its erection, an overseer fell from the top and dashed himst-lf to pieces. Down a gulley which rains have worn in the bank, a patl» winus to the boUom, where a line view is to !)e had of the Lower Fall. The water with a loud roar and considerable spray, rolls down a broken and contracted part of a ledge, si- milar in some degree to that of the upper fails, with the exception of its bcin^ much more une- ven. High over our heads the stupendous sides of the chasm rise to a terrifying elevation, and the distant butments rear their outstretched arms to the skies, tottering aloft upon the wind-shaken brows of each precipice. Alternate layeTs of earth and bright blue clay, with intermediate strata of slate, curl in beautiful parti-coloured stripes around the banks, rendered more striking by a pleasing admixture of ragged evergreens and overhanging bushes. Adjoining the falls a spa- cious arched grotto is deeply scoo|ied, under which the water so lately turbulent, finds rest in a deep, silent, revolving pool, ; : hf From Carthage on the Gennesee, to Lewistoii on the Straights of Niagara, a distance of nearly eighty miles, that wonderful curiosity the Great | Ridge road is traced, running in a straight line 11 1^ 1^^ 'I 2 toU- \ as it ariiigfc =ice of linety- ier fell in the 3 a tine e water ly, rolls idge, si- er fails, ore une- )U8 sides ion, and led arms [l-shaken [iiyeTS of mediate ;oloured striking |eens and |ls a spa- , under s rest in .ewistoii )f nearly Ihe Great | ight line' !( ■•; h ' a »- <\ •' r I Iff fi li .! *' n it. •! « i 1 1 IS ii; i? !»^' ir m .■| H H^»l ueaj isar feet /brdj road, to a enlig some >obe nriJl L tion !£ gravel a kirn swamf course, ibout 1 hy cree ancro;„"/'7„ " -PPo«e '' ""II be imraediately exnl^!^" f ""' °P'"i<>n "0" - taken intocons dmt 0^''':''!' ^"-"P"- Sravel intermixed with .! ' *'"''• ''* a fine ^ kind aitoge^hl ir„rr'r'"''^'^'>' »an,ps and marshes 1 ,""" "^' «^ the ^bout twenty yards ^il T f'?^' *'«» ' '' i» "y creeks and rivulets t'aro" ""'"^"^ '« naturalists, he"e covet"' ,«»'«""• "'^^"''''''g «tend generally tweJvIll I P'""* """ "o^ '« fe foot of Lthtghe;!'''''' °[ '"^ ''^-«' ,;'»ch is called the Lewto/i""'' *''"*'<'P« <"• CataraquiorStLawrenll «.»"n'am; and the ;« through the Ssand'lS^r'"^^^""'- »ke until it was bounded fori ' '"'""^ '^^ '"nd in the course ofZ S ' "T '''"'^' "-^ "'« hn t,me cast up this va-t Lh f* "^^'^ ''" "a'^" kinion is objictioLS fo^f T"'- ^^"' ""'^ hase. expect to find arou'nll l""'** '" «"«<> » ■ mm ;^ii: 'I- it' n •ti . U r i 1^' 'i> / ^i^ 4,; V !?^ d(j PEDESTRIAN TOUR. Ridgeway, the first day ; and in company with a young gentleman from Batavia, who was making a pedestrian excursion to his relations in Canada, ( reached, on the second, a tavern two miles from Lewiston. I observed the woods along the Ridge road, to be of a diiTerent character from those forests of cedar and tamarack, which here and there shaded my way before; now mostly tall and beautiful oak trees occupied the road and neighbouring grounds. After Ridgeway on Oak Orchard creek, there is one continu- ed forest of thirty miles, with only a few solitary log-houses planted upon some leased acres of ground, the miserable appearance of which, in- stead of diminishing, rather adds to the disagree- able looks of the low swamps and marshes, where the Great Ridge sometimes penetrates. The Hol- land Company's purchase embraces all this tract, and contains further southward, a number of populous villages. Hand-bills were circula- 1 curtsiec ting at this time, signed by Paul Busti, Esq. agent I bie, and for the Holland Company, in which lands were I adjoin in offered for sale or upon lease, upon terms ex-lthedirec tremely advantageous to new settlers. I^ociety. The Great northern Slope, or Lewistonllo the ba Mountain, rises not above two furlongs distantUndian in from the inn where I stopped; f nl upon the top,llers. pjj lies the village of the Tuscarora Indians, w tenants w< form one of the six confederated tribes, denomi'lcconjpan nated the Iroquese or Iroquois nation. Thef he siJver tribes are, the Mohawks, now a scattered rem^lut coveri nant in Canada, the Cayugas, who also emigratedlccording t to Ser Jate Six F cenc theii ripe tered same ^'omc comp Amer to a a moti niascul would steppec i'ed for iny with a as making in Canada, niles from along the icter from vbich here 3W mostly i the road Ridgeway ; continu- 5w solitary d acres of ivhich, in- 3 disagree- ihes, where The Hol- s all this a number re circula '^^ESTRIAK T017H. 07 *o Canada, thp On^- 1 Senecas. .nith^r'u^ *" ''"°"''''«'"' ""^ ""e'r been admitted t"'''' ' ''"'* °"'^ Si* Aations. '" *•"« confederacy of the -"'"=<' » -InJV'Ce'r/'"^ '-.,ord, ras- '"eir own plantat^s o exct "T "« ''■^""S'' "Pe corn, and at Jen.Lh '^""' "■««» «"<« 'ered house,, built oM„ """^ '° '"^^"" ««''»- ^ame manner as those of if! T '°°'"^ '» "><= "•omen, ,vhom I beS at r / ^ ''"''"• '^'^o •complexion to be twf I ''' '^'°"' "-^'^ ''gh' American farmers ,1 ^ '^°'" ''""ffhtera pf '» => '-ge Z^orZ^^T'^^S -«• pails » motion to approach th P°" "'^ "naking masculine air a^d'^ ';,"'• "'^ '«"^«t. '^hose 7"W have done honourtl "r'"'''' '''"''^^ Stepped forward and me '! " f;"' ^«« Pugilist, ^'^'i for the missio„rrv t m ""'• ^ '■"}"■- -" ■"'"''^'•'^a'dsomeS^u '"'""^et-clad lady Esq. agent I We, and pointedto a hf f""^^"'^' unintelli/ :a„as wereladjoini„/a church ^'Ct'""" '^'"'"^ "»- . terms ex-l he direction of tkeVuLT '""""'S "»''«; - . ISocety. Atfhismomenr *"■*'«" ^^'^'ionary Lew.stonio (he back of her co^n '"''"'^''^^d attached ' ,gs distantlndian i,.fo„t, pend.wTv 7"' " P*"^"^ «m £ ,n the top.le«. p^,,; ^ "'j^^'^/'^^P^ ^om her shou f l.ans. »-.olenants were still asleep r °\ '°« ''"'«' '-hose B. denomiJccompanied by a !•!..*'*" ^n^^'^nt squaw ion ThlhesilverlocJof \belf °"V^'^''' ^-rs'olT teredremlut coverin,. or ornamlt"" t""^ ^°-n -ith- i 1/ < t i) : I* Jl ^ . x^ ii8 PEDESTRIAN TOUK. in one hand. Bidding her good morning, she laughed and shook her head, signifying that she did not understand ; and the little squaw drew closer ahout her, the remnant of a blanket, the tatters of which served for a fringe. , . »• n ' . A Tu&carora Indian, who had lately received his education in New- York, conducted me round tlie village, and politely introduced me to their venerable chief Sacaresa, to the Interpreter, and to one David Cusick, celebrated for his ingenuity in the art of painting. This David Cusick hr in his possession, a variety of relics of their fc. nier implements anH arms, such as stone axes, flint arrows, war-clubs, belts of wampum, and some curious ornaments ; and his drawings, though the materials were coarse, exhibited in a striking and clear manner, the council meetings, the rites of worship, and the modes of dancing practised by their forefathers. ui «. I was informed that the Tuscaroras, one hun- dred and fifty years ago, inhabited a large district in North Carolina, at which time they could boast of six thousand strong iighting-men : that, in a war with a neighbouring tribe, one thousand of their choicest warriors were destroyed : and that they emigrated twice to the state of New-] York ; and the last time, about fifty-one years ago,| after distinguishing themselves in many blood; battles against the encroaching Europeans, wen adopted in the Iroquois confederacy. They poi sess 6133 acres of land ; of which it appears^ 641 were a grant from the Seneca tribe, 1280 Sel( young consid -Asi now he out of in wa^ ^Jeprive distingi was ami gorgeou bons an. "Pon thi f-ewisi ''"medja ^^OESTRlj^s TOUR. ^^^ 'abour. n,o.tdi,igeni;;'e; t, 7' T """ portion of the gains Thl " greater pro- -%in:„T:rXirL"^^'''-^ ; number of Indians for^d „ ' r^r'T' '^ oowmenced with these lines wl^hh ?'^ 'or me upon a piece of pa^k """"'"'' *>ni • qoa • I. quaj-,b Sa w. , „, ,„ ,^ijlj l^^„ SeM6m was 1 better pleased win. • • young 8quaws with thefr -Ser ""^y '^^ considerably to the harlny! ' '*'' "'^'^^^ As the grand council of th« c- »r »ow holding at flufta'oe L , " ^'"'**°«' ""^^ out of the Ullage rm?'nnT'''"' '^"^'^ ^^^^'^S •» wagons, fo^'thrpir^c'-f '"''-«'' •leprivedthemofmuchoffh!; Civilization has di'.tinguisl.es the wild hu^ttT' '"'"'• '^'"oh -"s amusing to see he» TrrLn "' ''"'''*• ^' gorgeous dresses allX ^ '" "'*''• "'ost "^n- and me^c orni "^ "'" '^'"•'«". "b- '•7«thi.i„,p„«;-— . profuse,, added I "»e Great northern SJope. "r-i ]00 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ni' I » i '1.. ! k 1 "• ■ ■ » |i* 1 ■■1- i ■t i. '• '1 ■*■ r ■■■■]> It is a large scattered place, raised entirely upou the ashes of the old village, which was destroyed with many circumstances of cruelty, in the late contest with Great Britain. Without making any stay here, I ascended the mountain, broke through the bushes, and saw — not indeed the grand Falls of Niagara, whose distant roar was drowned in the noise of the rapids under my feet ; hut a vast inland ocean spreading in the prospect without any perceptible bounds; the confines of a new country, with ite villages and farm-houses, separated only by anarrowchasm over which one might suppose he could casta stone; and, scattered upon both the rival fron- tiers, frowning fortifications,and the fields of some of the moat bloody battles ever recorded in the annals of history. I looked around the* grassy brow of the precipice upon which I was sittiiig, with my feet literally hanging in the air, in order, if possible, to discover some remaining evidences of the fiery contest between this and the opposite height of Queenston, where Colonel Scott so well directed his artillery from this commanding eminence in 1812. No vestige re- mained ; tVie bullets were rolled away, and thefal- len heros were mouldering beneath the sod. A correct idea of the lands around this con- tracted pass, the celebrated Straights of Niagara, which it is hardly necessary to say, conveys the waters of Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, is readily acquired from the summit, of Lewiston Moun- plains. have re pendict sitiori ol ciiiefly ( formed j pact stra at the bo ^^oods, li JVotwi pout this rant-'e, si. 'aiis of A L'iose upon phich the sly upou estroyecJ I the late making 1, broke, deed the roar was Is under prea ^•EDESTRIAN TOUR. j^. '3.1 scarcely rises to the top. The Hnr«. u "^ fa I creatps •» ^o^*. ^ k- i ne Horse-shoe air, illtsTemtt; "T' ' """""""^ '"^^ '"'° the Fantastic Toe "'"t ""'*" blonds above. ;i' "ead strikes the S ?:d "STo" ''? ' from the body Now fho • ^ separates and become the bouTh'Z'X""'"^^'''^"* -nd and be„di„, f^^ tZTeLTTj, ''' 'he mist rolls in thick foM. ( t' ^"''denly »& them, feebly V: 106 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. *r *-' * f '■ ' '^ \i 1 ((' ; It.:' J' : « 2 » \'''' * ^ t It; I' endeavouring to stop the irresistable violence ot the rapid. The straight or river of Niagara, after re-uniting at the-extrennity of Grand-'Isle, continues three miles in a westerly course, and then suddenly bends north-east. Before it reaches the bend, the stream contracts from a mile and a half in width, to about three quarters, and dashing furi- ously, like a turbulent sea, for half a mile over a gradual though rocky descent, leaps into the gulf at the very point of the angle. From a collection of mills and factories arranged along the American side of the rapids, denominated Grand Niagara or Manchester, spreads in view tile expansive bay, bounded by champaigne lands. Chippewa appears at a distance, scattered about the mouth of Chippewa river : Navy island and the woody shores of the Grand isle, lie at a great I ^^m of distance on the left, and opposite, upon a highltlurabjj bushy bank, Ontario Hotel rear* its white colol^i*om t[ nades. Midway, firm among the roaring brea-pre mac kers, is Goat or Iris-Island, to the romanticr^rasup walks of which, a bridge, lately rebuilt by Judgel^'ie Cha Porter, after passing over an intermediate islandP^eps, y^.^ leads from the American shore. It was nof ^ draws without terror that I saw the violent surges beatpatience ing against the slender props of this bridge, anil perceiv< within a stone*s throw of the river leaping into thfentJemai yawning gulf and involving the objects beneath ifcanfuJJy dense vapours. The small island across whiJearing oi the bridge passes, is called Bath-Island, and hit iength \ upon it the toll-keeper** dwelling and a cor^mfcived the di< Tei 8tr( froi the turn The step ofiaj ofna cs, ar conte iittle 1 pandii quadri the ru8 Fori d'ous bathing house. Parses in refreshmg themselves at th. , """"""■' "fter ;tro]U«oogthe retiX*:;»^/««diate island, fro™ a precipice of two h t." """"''• "^here y^Wing on the nghtS l:^!^' ''°'" «''-^" There IS a beautiful seel.,.; f'^' '* "Stained. :'7 '•" '-CI b, paths. al'°l ^""^ "- foot.- «f 'arge forest trees, ^ne ^f L ^'""""^ "-"nks of nature shows.at tn.es. Jh ! t"^'"' ""^cts «^. and with its solemn rol "'~"«'' "•«> bush. ':0;;templatio„ and awe 'T:."»P«'» "'e mind to ''Wj islands, with tleir tl^'^J-'"'' 'Mother U in view I panding over banks uZ T '""'"«*' «« ex- .igne lands. I quadruped has ever CeTd "?.'"' '^'''''^">an or ered about I *e rustic elegance of natu e " ""''■ '"'^ Reform island and I f^°' the convenience ofT eat a greatl om of the falk. permarent?.*'^"'^'"^ '° *« bot- pon a highl durably fixed ail^tt /''"'''>''' ''^'e been .hite coKvlFrom the foot oftb" stit 'f ' "'" '^^ P^ecipfce «ring bre a-are made of rough Zls Z" *^ ''"P^. 'tep e romantiJforasupport. leading to a ferT/""^" ''^ni'^ter ,lt by Judgf he Charon of the ftll -^l"*'"" 'he shore liate islandfteps. was standing at TZ'rJ^r '''"='"'at.ence the approach oflT ! ' ""'*"'"? "-ith bridge, anl perceived him push „fh7"''""°"'' P^-^ngers ,ing into gentleman, into fhe 'rfen" '*' ""^ " '""/and '''"'tr"^ against the'st.^am's"wT\""'' '"^"^^ cross wh Jeanng on the surface 1?.! "''' P^™ ''•"vn! .nd. and hi length he landed hi! Tr "" "''""^ ' ""'i * « co*4'-d the hard earned prSf bislS; -'^ "' ll<*'^"' -< !\ I' ' " ■' ?^ : U ■■ ■ ■ U^ \\ •■."vr % ■ f i 108 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. Various kinds of trees have fixed their roots beneath the impending ciift's, at a distance below the falls. Nearer and occasionally receiving the sprinklings of the mist, shrubs and flowering plants, in the highest perfection, lift their bright luxuriant heads ahove the broken stones. Each crevice, and each spot of earth, on this fertile though rugged part of the slope, is a garden of the sweetest, gayest flowers of the forest. Under the continually showering spray, vast rhomboidal rocks which earthquakes have shaken from the summit, are covered with long bending grass, and the watery interstices among them are filled with aquatic weeds. Here from the top of a huge block of lime- stone, I viewed with dumb amazement the falls overhead : thundering tumult shakes the basis of the clift's ; a powerful breeze assaults the face, blowing at times rolling clouds of sj^ray. White and foaming, the cataract is just perceived pitch- ing over and breaking apart ere it is half way to the bottom : dazzling mist envelopes the sight, and nothing more is to be seen. Turning around, as the spray showers from above, the thin form of the rainbow, like some etherial spirit, sweeps its radiant circles through the air. -^ ^ -> « * Although the current below the falls is ex- tremely rapid, a passage over it, on accti'ni of its depth and smoothness, can be effected with- out any danger. Having crossed over, I ad- vanced immediately to the part where we can agaii show slabs are s scent, spring ocre ( ble ga Ne.\ wind. univers scene. the drei of cann the very behind t where ti dash us ffightene I ^he rock. ^leir roots nee below eiving the flowering eir bright es. Each his fertile garden of t. Under omboidal from the ng grass, are filled of lime- : the falls le basis of the face, . White ed pitch- If way to he sight, f around, hin form t, sweeps penetrate behind the falls • »i.- .. •nan^- accounts receivll./, ^^''' ^^""'"O- to ordinary kind. "'^ " *" undertaking of no W"e are first obIi<»«l .„ from the foot of ital ZT"" ''''^' ^ ""e ,^nea«. the impendi^? k 'l^''"' °» «""» «de, 'he sharp angle, of rocks int' "^''^"^ "P°» o'hera, dashing th-ou.* .k T" '"'"='^' '"d in ^ oo.e ouf oft^etewL'S"^ '''-«». S'abs of slate are comiZ » ^^ P'^cipice. 6"'ng f«,« aboTe. ir "^ ".'"""^ "^ «nd »««' of the distance, plobablv' ■ "^"'"•<=«' aga,nst the stones. S, ^ '"•'"""^ o"' feet shower. f„,n, abovj. and ."kin??'"'* '" *« ^'abs of slate, a seri;us blo» ^' ^^ *« '"''"'ng "■■e suddenly assault^ C^ '"^ ''^H -e ■^ent. issuing from thrVe suL, "'^' '"^"'^^Wc springs, which give all the I'^t"'"""^ °' '"'™mg oc^ colour. aL li I «~""^ '^^'"an We gas. '"*"' *« ="' '^'th i„flan„„,. Next we are assaulted by f„ri„ «"nd. Every things looks L "' «^"''« »' universal veil of rZ aS to LT'' '''"■''' ^" ;cene. The minbows still J^*?^? "' *<' the dreadful thunder of AeSl t J"'' "^' ^^ of cannon between conTenS"' '^' *^ """^ he very earth beneath our feeT ' *^«» hehind the falls, over the ", ptt Z "' Z^''^^'"* -here the slightest mis-s^HotM °''"■°^'■'" ^--.anddieundertrS:--;;- ^ i. ' -^ fk is? I: no rEDCSTRIAN TOUR. The air is so loaded with fine particles of the fluid, that it is scarcely possible to breathe. In a moment our clothes are drenched through ; and for a moment only, we dare turn up our eyes to the white obscure sheet in front, the looks of which, the roar, the danger, is enough to appal the stoutest heart. — What a situation for human beings ! imprisoned between impenetrable walls of rock and descending water ; enveloped by a wild chaos of mixed air and water, whirled about in horrible confusion. It occupies time in describing this, but the impression is momen- tary, and never to be effaced. Down drop the brimful oceans, crash upon crash ; loud peal the hollow rattling thunders. Asa thousand crags rifted at once by lightning from the top of a lofty mountain, dart headlong, crumbling, to the dis- tant valley, and reiterating with deafening loud- ness, stupify the dismayed inhabitant over whose head they rebounded ; so flies Niagara over us desperately swift ; and madly bellowing as it recoils high above the trembling earth, astounds the aflrighted senses of the presump- tuous mortals, who thus dare to break into this worse than Tartarean dungeon. An awful I plunge! Dreadful uproar echos round the I deep abyss, whilst the never-ceasing war of jar- ring elements, break, quiver, burst, and roHj around — ,. ..^ ... .• -. , ■. ^-'>..::i.- ,m ''^■r>'/ As if the phrcnziM demons of the air, '^ "' LoosM from their chaioa of adamant bad met ^>^^^f i>/o In fierce encounter- • ihroujh t 8 of the he. In a igh; and reyes to looks of to appal >r human ible walls ped by a whirled )ies time i momen- drop the 1 peal the and crags of a lofty the dis- ling loud- ;ant over i Niagara bellowing ng earth, presump- into this ^n awful ound the rar of jar- and roll ,^'"'g"ng jell, and »roans of . mute with the class of ZkL^"""'' ''^^"'' 'he angry spirits of the tor^^l,.* '"■'"°"'' "'"" -^^averns. seem to exliml ' °'""'"'^'^»'"> begone .-We obe^ th" ul """' "'""'-"'f P'-eoipitately avva/ rel " T " "'"' ""'•'•^"•S •comfortable station. ^ """'^ ««^"'-e and A' a little distance fmm fi •nense rock has fallen .n ' '"'"'^'' ■'"' "n- ancl formed by chanr. T"" '"'""''■ '"^S-ents » spacious gfotir o^'""''' ''^ '^"•''/-eigh : ■ '' ^">- behindthe Falls of Nial/, ''''.?*'• ^^"'"red '•""dreds." They S a ,. 1^*" ^■"'1 "e" over their faces, for intf" """ '"•"dkerchief -ter. stop their eU afd?^ 'h* Particles of '^-^-/hedeln^eof^p:;^--^^^^^^^^^^^ ii n n ». M •' <. i ■' '., •J I li'2 PEDESTRIAN YOUU. changing their dress prevent any danger of injur- ing their health. The path leads along the browof the precipice, from any part of which is obtained the best and most comprehensive view possible, of the Grand Falls. A capacious prospect, of them, is afforded from the well known Table-rock, the cliffs near which, and a part of that huge projection itself, fell three or four years since, with a tremendous crash, and exposed the i;>ter- nal structure of the fetid-limestone, which has numerou small cavities mostly filled with a soft calcareous mineral, aptly denominated from its appearance, petrified foam. Heaps of fragments of rock lay at the bottom of the American falls* presenting from this side a very saigular appear* ance. The water dashesupon them, and rolling in different channels which have worn deep among the stones, causes by the friction, a mist to rise from the whole surface of the descending streams ; resembling, in agreat degree, rivers of smoking lava rolling down the sidesof a burning mountain. ' .. . , Logs of wood, curiously smoothed and round- ed at each end, are always floating at the edge of the river, which, originally rough trunks of trees, have been a long while rubbing against each other under the cataract, and have at last been extricated in that regular form. Whatever comes over the falls is destroyed and broken to pieces. Fishes without life, parts of animals, and the limbs of human beings, it is said, are sometimes Pi;nEST„,.,x roi-K. found washed on tl.<, u.„ . ^ver.arenotas U-eauentT''^'"'^''"''' ''O"-- ""'s-'C. as we,lo srel" '""t' '' "^''--' = '"ghb- elevated, and from ft "*' '''"'^ «'»nds grandeur. The hmo i '" ^^tent and '«ous scene which mt^, "'"^'' '" ">« bo«- - ^oon, and to the ritu r'. '" ''"""""''^ «o°n to be precipitated if « l"'" '^'"«'' '' '»'o Wosingrocks; and then Lf " ^^^'"'^f^om ''°"nds franticiy o,t hi 7 """ '"^"''"'"'^e. again recoils-a^ain hi. , ,''*=*^«°ding ledge_ '•«= foaming hiCinL t r"'' "' '"""^ hard through the narist '"::"; "" '' '"^"'^S'^^ once more, and at lalt aun^h 'i'""'''^*' ''"""ds "•« glor, of its own ., '^"''"^^"'-""•ngin "mdeedawonder.thu toS'l^,"' '^'^P'ar- It waters of a chain of la^es an n '^""'""'""^'l 'ending two thousand .i/es '" "''''' «" western territories her. ^^ "'^ "°rth. strait, falling „ J'; ^^ « i„ a „»„,, "«y-two feet, and de5„c^L "' ''?"''''*^ «»" - Between t.eM;:Sri3 ' 10 • *^^^** ""•«« miles "i ;i ' If F. * mi i*.^> r.^ iV *.i k i ' t 114 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. below the falls. It is occasioned at a point, where the course of the river is abruptly changed. The irresistible violence of the de- scending current, appears to have excavated a spacious cove into the facing bank, which rises perpendicular to the height of three hundred feet The water keeps constantly turning around, carrying along with it floating logs and rubbish, all of which, however bulky, suddenly disappear in one part, and emerge again at a considerable distance. After stated intervals, the whirlpool, which swells with the collection of water, all at once disgorges itself, and subsides to its former level. i From the Falls of Niagara to Black-Rock, near the commencement of the straights, the distance on the American side is about twenty-one miles, and Buflaloe is two miles and a half farther. A thick forest extends a considerable number of miles towards the east, without any inhabitants; and here and there only, along the shore, a cleared field is scooped out of the close entangled um- brage, like earth out of the side of a high bank. The road is not above mediocrity ; and runs mostly through the woods. Beyond the Tonne- wanta, over which there is a ferry, the shore sinks into low fertile flats and marshes, and the channel of the river is divided by a line of islands of the same description. Upon the dead branches of wide spots of girdled trees, I saw inconceivable quantities of the smaller specie? I \\ li •»-ou,. a. the le.v"l of ':h;r.K'""'*' " ""- '•«"ed on had been deprived ' ^ "'" *«/ Mqjor . an officer of .V!r """'"*« "^ "rned in the evening -.A Vr . «*"• He re- "cquaintance Jf,^ T*,?^""^''***' ">«. from hie ■""ch valuable informati,/ %^'""'^!'^ "-e. orator, of the Six Nation, k I^ **'«'"» «»«» ■»»«» is greatly resp^S / ^ '"""" ""» ««»"e- house: and the E^' ^'j^;!"!!^ ""^^ « "- affection for hin, in the laL '^^^ '° e«>« «" Britain, .ha. they adopted h"'''' '"'* «««' 'hieft, and gave him th! "" ** °"« »' ">eir Red-Jacket had been Zt\ dal '""'""«• ceding. But. what I shaM n . ^ °' "'^ P'e- " the superb assortment "/""'?'"'^ «=°"ect. «'». of which, he aTa ° r °'''''-*^'«'-'' •»'»«- «^«> in the oppc^Ue in ^"""^ ^°'^'' ^^o "nd beautiful XL ' "' ^""'^^^'' '^ ^ast -^^^^Zl^:^-'^ -'^ Indians. Buffaloe isa wellSS *" *^*'">' ''''"^'ion "Pon 'heshorel^'i Si^Yr""^' -'%e ™- " has no harbour. If;: •^wfl it I ..?• :^^ ■ if: ' ''-: ■ .( t: I; P ic ■ -1 I •'A ■': I- 116 PEDESTRIAN TOUH. i although a strong mole which has been projected, will supply that deficiency. The principal hotel is Pomeroy*s, from whicli Governor Cass, of the Michigan Territory, and suit, had just departed. My host politely intro- duced me to Captains Jones and Parish, agents of the Six Nations, who had been taken when boys, and educated among the savage tribes. The grand council had already met on Sunday, and were to meet again on the Sunday following. Lesser meetings were held in the rooms, in which I saw several forcible and energetic speeches de- livered by the Indians to the agents. Obeil or Cornplanter, is one of the principal Senecas; and Red- Jacket, the noted warrior and counsel- lor, who was now at the village of the Senecas, three miles off, sways all the proceedings of the tribes with his powerful eloquence. Yet this personage frequently reels from the tavern, in that despicable state from which all savages sel- dom care to escape. The head chief (Grangula) of the six tribes, I understood to be a very old and venerable man, to whom a long white beard attaches an appearance of great dignity. When we survey the national character and history of the confederated Mohawks, Cayugas, Senecas, Oneidas, Onondagas, and (of late) Tus- caroras, we find an importance and strength in their councils and proceedings, which no other savage tribe of North America has exhi- bited in an equal degree, and which almost. 1% 'ands are „o^ restricted ton '"»"« of their <^er: and the ont ol°h r'""'''""'''^''*" O-ed to cope .Th r^tt':f ?"'^' '""' ■nvade her provinces, are dZdlJ^ . f'" '"^ »ne thousand five hundrL Zh^ ° '"'' """> 'OSS of ,heir comfortable^ «1?;"""-* '^''« destructive liquors Jhfi^' ^ *"""'• ^n** *« »-come«jri:!rLdi'''^"'r'°'*« the haggard troon nf . !^ untimeljr death and f"' vifTgi'Sh „r ot"' '"'"' *"•' 1-- assault: and diminbhilfh ^T""^ '''"■^'' ^ te'ingtheirterritorie? "If ''7-'"' ""' ''^W- 'easing their ia^r^hl'^tK^"^';? *'*^'^ then,, orof ivholly ,.; „aL^° T '=*"«^'«« ofEuropean armsf uZ 1?? "■*« V force «■»-. --eaccodiL7fv!rf-/'*''^*'^"' a'-a-ities. to the Brihsh ^,f'^ '^' "^ain ftemselves upon the 11.^ '' ""'*' f'''<^^ -Wchthey obtained eailo'*""''/'""* "'«> "">etj/-uine years.' A^tn 1 """ *'""^''*'' ^""^ 'heir small Lrvatio^, blfh ' T°''"'"''^ "^ harrassed by theirT^' t * ""* ^^P'*' ""d concealed insults. therhat'T""' *''"»'' ^^i' , ^"stoms. and dispeZ. r/"'"^*" *«' "-cient »»">« dignity; nave"'''''"°*''=P"<'-''» ^"^ at ^^1 """ T'le villages of (he I -^^ '"'«'an-I684. * iiacic.— CAomp/fl,„. " *"« second story According to Pafhp.. w *■<»" Of olher «*" "™7'"' "» ''«)"<.« h.d c„. off .b„ v\ fir I •1-I-. x' -■•k ■|.= ,- f. 120 PBDESTRIAN TOUR. f . m I 4 ''■■< '4 , r; w N'^H I' , '. (« Is'' li! CHAPTER V. - UPPER CANADA. Friday, September 21, 1821. , v.. ■ "t «•' Hoary looks produce respect to the worst and poorest men : so the lapse of ages excites admi- ration even of ill-fought battles. In the early days of Grecian prosperity, when the clumsy art of war, spent its efforts in scaling walls and sapping towers, and the whizzing of the arrow marked the limits of engagement, their fiercest contests, were not accompanied with half the horrors, with which deafening cannon, smoke and roaring musketry involve the combatants in mod- ern warfare ; and yet their feats are accounted extraordinary, and the siege of a small town i$ celebrated in poems and histories without num- ber. Those battles, then, which have transpired i within a few years, must indeed be worthy of renown, if with all their accompanying errors J seen still perspicuous, men take pleasure in repeatedly describing them, poets, in singing the! praise of the gallant leaders, and of which, thel honoured soldier, whilst his friends stand lookingj on, bares his breast, and exclaims with conscic applause. "There I received this wound." Suclj ^ "re the late battles, of what h,. k ' ^''»?ara, are grounds It ,•^"^ """^ foft d-stant quarters. "'^'''«'' visitors from After I had crossed over th» «f • .. Rock, every step I advanced ^'''"^'''^«'«'aok- «''ere armies had ma "Hj '^"^ "P"" a tract pitched, and feats Trail '"""' '""^ "'^^» Here savages had mingled deTth'^r'""^''-- '>e'r enemies the French and C /' ' °^ ^ercely engaged with their felln^'"' "'^^'^ England met the forces „fp "^ '^^'^^^ ' here -d ere Q„ehec cZZ^Z^'Z T" '"^ «^'^- «dded to the diade; of The Zfi ""'"'^ '^'^ =>» will The Canadian side of th» «»_• 1, ^f thickly inhabited Zil^^'^l'^ ^^'^S^ra, 'he water. The roaH „ku/ ''"""'*t«d near ,J-tifu,,y„p„:-;;;-h.e.^^^^ Chippewa. Enelish l,.^^*'* ""ebankquiteto among the peop,fj^™*;7« -'■^ Perceived '"•ign-ted from th; SL ^ '""' ''°"^^«'' ^ave |»P'ivatea„dini^,^«-^ li;iM ,, ( i: J ;'• hi il .-i I' I' M^'*^ If:-! ■!' 1 1. 12)2 PEDESTRIAN TOUli. are no longer within the boundaries of a republi- can country ; and the crown is seen waving in the wind over the doors of the numerous taverns. At Chippewa, the field of battle (July oth, 1814) is a cleared levd piece of grouml, upon which the parties must have met upop equal terms. Fort Chippewa at the mouth of the creek or river, together with the magazines, is kept in good preservation. The remains of the bridge, which the Americans burnt, are standing and a new one is erected, fartlier from the mouth and nearer the centre of the town, i . ^ p . ... ,,, . The falls, as I approached them the second time, looked strange and beautiful. The cur- rent appeared to sink among woody trees, which form the background of the scene ; and over Iris island, with its little cottage and corn-field at this end, a white mist was rising, and as it swelled^ elegantly decorated with the prismatic hues ot the rainbovv, as quickly seemed to evaporate. The chasm which the falls continue, thoujjh slowly, to excavate, will evidently be in the middle of the Horse-shop Fall, where the hea- viest body of water plunges down : and by the time the chasm reaches the extremity of Iri» island. Fort Schlosher Fall wiU have its weak jjupply entirely turned into th^ riea;iest pass^ Jind will disappear. v " . ?, ;, Almost within sight of the Grand Cataract, is I the spot upon which the battle of Bridgewater or Lundy*s Lane, was fought, (July 35th, 18HJ V*". fc'<;iii:l A H-:fvl i^i -JiZfl -s.^W^ awisti eventi conne so mai them £ the exf ^erdisl ^evolut jfele par he fougl and fror ^y the c esteem, tain S-^ most im| ' ^erprizes. kuties,wi republi- ng in the ems. At 1814) ib hich ttic IS. Fort or river, in good ;e, which d a new )uth and i second The cur- es, which over Iris lid at this snrelletl, jhues ol vaporate. , though )e in th« I the hea- d by the ^ pi Iris its wealc pass, and rEBESTRUN TOL-S. ■•'iKl which may be rero»„- jv ^ "ence, fiom which tl^l'T''" «■»»" ^mi- enemy. ■.,,!!!!; """ '"^'•"'c Miller drove the -'^t:^rsr "7"^"'"- woodi ;i'fflculty alon/tL i '' !"" P^°'^^eding with A fnend and relative, Mr S . u *»«•" a member of th^ pf i ' "''"' ''^ 'onfi "f Upper Canada a„dhr"'T'" '"•Assembly • I'Ortance and resporsfbfli "^^ °"'''' """'^^^ °<" ™- •nain a few days'^att' f ' .'"'"^ '"^ *" '"«- Reflections Of t^^' „!.;''"■ "«"'• Q»eensto„. «P'aMe to people ori"''T'''^'^^^»»»'^- "-ej are imp ^^ ^"1 "'"'"*"»«'J«g. as '«»'-3ted in turning thT^t "TT " ™» "''« "vents, his private history! I^' °' P°"«<^«' connected with his DuhK ''" "separably '» -any great ch rac^'thT? ^"^""'•^ ""^ «>«•» all : and Americll?. ^''1 '''""°' »°«« *e exploits of he^nemil ""'t'^ '" ""»'-''« terdistinguished re^rdT Th ^'"'''""^ P''^ '» revolutionary war Drov!'^ T' ^f ""«■»««, in the We parti».„'of the B S r' '^ '™ '"««- he fought dauntlessly n ali ,h '^ >'°"nff man. »nd from his knowledge of Am """""=" ''=«H hy the commanders. Iho hefdt"''' T '''°'«" .f'eem. and were alwavs„l J .'?*' '"«''"* ;'n;^ under their 7^1^ to '"'"« ''''^■ t) ■ '^ if, If' ■ }^ i<. :nj .N V. 1 I 124 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. i the reward which Washington offered for hishead, he underwent adventures, of which we can only find their equal in the pages of a romance. Indeed, his life if written, with above fifty battles in which he has fought, would form a most interesting work. Concealed in the hollow trunk of a tree, or under a low bridge, dragoons often trampled over his head, balked of their prize. More than once he was actually taken, put in fetters, and f losely watched ; yet, by means of friends, (and it is to be regretted, there are always in the United States too many hostile spirits well con- cealed,) he accomplished his escape. The most difficult undertaking was a journey for some special purpose, from Quebec to New- York, disguised and on foot, at a time when few roads or settlements had been made far from the principal bays and rivers. Having been ordered by the British commander to take his station fvith a company in a private place, with express orders to sieze the mail, without attempting any thing besides : whilst anxiously waiting at the head of his men with his pistols ready, General Washington himself, accompanied by some officers, pas^id along, at the distance of two or three yards : one aim would have taken the life of their great enemy ; but he repressed his troop, and with the strictest obedience of n soldier, accomplished that design only, upon which he had been sent. After the peace, he dined with General Washington, when that truly great man, recognising him, asked, ** Are • The ml hishead, :an only Indeed, in which teresting if a tree, rampled ore than ;ers, and ds, (and I in the rell con- 'he most or some w-York, hen few rom the ordered > station i express empting waiting 8 ready, nied bj itance of ire taken ^pressed nee of % U upon PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ! 'I ,i fj 126 you not the Dersnn u ^^^^Pon a certl\ '"'^^^ '^«ve taken my plied « T occasion ? " *« y^r " k ^ ^'"^^ I am that S^p fn. u * ^® ''^ ^^ » poor appea^nee "^I'j '"'^*' ^'cJ" of -U commerce to theTo'rh • '""^ ** *""""'«'' fffe at the embouchure ofN "^ '"'"" °^^'^- ''ouses are i„ ruins and th^*^"'''- ^""^ °f «»e ^•^ge are left totteri i'^'J^^t "'"^ '^'«^^'« bank. The precede '■"''*'"'««'••« the remarkable over tte'l, ''""«••. ''hid. ^a, coldness, (roze tte wt^'' '"""""^ '"o' e^'reme -'hadamantiaoTrin":^.''!" ^1" '"- Straights "!ff from the fall? '^:r ''"'^*^«««««d- P'eces, accumulated' to 1 m '"'^ ""^^ "» huWdrngs on either side^th 1 '^ "•"* "'hw- ^he affluent circu,««° ^ ^''^"«'' "=' abled h™ " '^"'^"'nstances of Mr o ,." '"■»• to spend his t,m« *• «n- '"cLnations; he therefore "V''f'''"« '^ «« Md «e rode to ForrGeoL^'f.'^'"'^ ''« <*aise, f-'^ of the coul5°'^!Vr"'''»"^°'''- '"een Queenston and * v .*"''''^"^ B^ '^^re thrown up i^f ^'?"^' fortificatio« *« Americans. ^urTn^thT'^' "' P''^'^ ^ B"«* peninsula. Ei'"- P°^-'on of thi '"•^^edi* buthas risen lot "^ ^""'"^'^^ ^e- -as before. The ZrZT"'"'"'' "«"' " •Th.i„,K. ■"•■"■'' ""-^^^jr rich. «<' j ' >ll V26 PEDESTRIAN TOUH. ^M^^ r y- V\ H: ■ lit yf !•» About a mile from the town and almoBt among the woods, is the court-house and prison, a spacious and very magnificent brick edifice. Gourlay, who created so much disturbance throughout Canada in 1818, was tried here, for inciting insurrection among the inhabitants, and received sentence of banishment from the country. In this year the radical reformers of Great Britain were holding their meetings in the fields; and at one of their largest meetings in Scotland, where I was at that time, I heard a list of resolutions read from the hustings, which in- timated among other things, that it would be expedient to bring the British subjects in Ame- rica, into the same views with themselves, and that a proper understanding should be established between the distance countries. My friend, "Who was the prosecutor of Gourlay, pointed to a strong beam of a gallery in the spacious and ele- gant court room, which, he said, bent downwards with the weight of spectators. The doleful voice of a poor debtor sounded through a little hole of ione of the dungeons, as we passed the prison rooms, and Mr. 5>— -e agreed to assist in extrica- ing him out of his unfortunate situation. The barracks at Newark are extensive. A re- giment of troops are garrisoned here, who ^xer- troyed. A recent paragraph in a New York paper, shows that their | request has been granted. December 17, 1821. *' Ten thousand pounds sterling have tately been distributed, by the! British Government, among individuals, on the Canadian frontier, fori loss in buildings and stores during the late war, at Niagara, Queeit| «ton, Chippewa &c." ^ Itafl grounds bought. ^^•e shoi "ies of t *"'g.ing t the gJittc coming i iong scati iives fron > \ . among rison, a ediiice. urbance lere, for ibitants, i'om the rmers of !;s in the tings in rda list ^hich in- ouid be in Ame- ves, and abiished ' friend, nted to a and ele- wnwards ful voice le hole of e prison \ extrica* I. ;^ ' B. A re- rho ^xer- ^^^^^LniAS TOUR. J . B'-iti-l. troops, is reallv . . , "PP-^sfan^e of •"•••'very equaMbeS.;;'''^1'^'= ''""'^"'"'>- -'•-of„o other ni;^^^^^^^^ ''"'P'-^' 'he hem. Those we saw unon ,h """P"'"^'! "'''h I'-"'' regiment habUeTJaH' """"'' ^''««» ^eproceededtoc, ;;';J*^7"""on„. posed visiting the rrn j T ^^'""'ay. and pro- through Queenston, oLerr^ . ""'^- f'^'-'g « 'hey passed sho;ed tt "'^ "'"^ P^'^^'on ;f' e -'e«ainerr:po:rh::rh'^'°r'^ -- "-•^an old dog in avi^H^e '"'^' " ' »>» ''""•^^ -ne." There wa 1 1, T^ ''""^ '" i, fx-ouliarly interesting; a Joun<""' '''•• «--> h'h-ted a stern and pinL^ ,""'" "'"' ^x- '"'•'d -inkles of an h'o„::rf„f '"'=•' >*"" 'he character that blended Itf "''^"'"•a'e. and a '''"'ntless courage of a dal^L ''""'""^ -•"> the V . ...r * """"g commander. rntut^^t;i^^^^ 'i'ught. At every ste.7 » ? '""^* have been 'he shouts of the viSious "^i '". ''"''^"'ation! "■es of the conque;:J^^Te :e?t, ''' '^'"^ ''^°- '"•Rmg their welried ti^ol?* "'*^'"»"ande« 'he glittering files of S2 TT" ''"''^'^«. In : liill '^ I ■ ri li; i 1*1 . ■- 128 PEDESTRIAN TOun. > kl The thouofht intrudes itself, that the very spot wr arc standing on, may have drank the crimson streams ot* some unfortunate husband or of some hapless son, dying upon a distant field, far from home, unknown and perhaps unpitied. My friend, accompanied me on Monday, as he had proposed, to the redoubts and breastworks, remaining on Queenston Mountain. His know- ledge of the events of the late war, his acquaint- ance with officers on both sides, and his bearing an active part in the engagements at this quarter in 1812 and 1813, enabled him to give me very particular information concerning the frontier Irf.usactioiisof tlie several campaigns. He sprang with the aj^ility of a youth, over the ditches and upon the bulwarks of the fortifications, although advanced age had silvered his locks, and his breatt and arms gave proofs of the numerous ^wounds he had received. As he described each successive battle, he paced the decayed parapet with apparent satisfaction, adding occasionally, appropriate and energetic actions. Captain S — e was a stout loyalist ; and a man who would fight for the land in which he lived. He allowed, there- fore, very little in favour of the Americans. The commencement of hostilities between Oreat Britain and the United States, appears to have been upon the frontiers of Canada ; where the inhabitants, especially of tlie Upper Province of Canada, were ready, both to resist and to com- mit depredations, upon the first intimation ot{ ihe war. Van enable to ^''oops, g spot we crimson of some far from jy, as he stworks, s know- cquaint- bearing I quarter me very frontier e sprang ches and although and his umeroufi bed each parapet sionally, ain S — e uld fight d, there- icans. between »pears to i; where Province 1 to com- lation of I Tlio /iist nlTiiif ,.!■ . ^'■"•; «|.e„,,.e thl' ZZ T ''^ ^"^^ Michi- '''«> lakes, rivers and bounrr '^'""^ °*-^'- "» "> Cha,„p|ai,, Where «^ '"'' '■'"°'° «"'<"' """'" not „,cet each oL ' ';"'"''"'""& Powers "- 'and. floating 2t;",^^- -"A-t up„„ '"«'^t each other ,17 .! t "'^^ '^"'""^^ '» '-fore theconc,::: ^ r^^rh!"!' ""• «''""" ' "•e amount of twenty wthtr tt *" ''°°P* '» '^Pulse at these parts «L I ^, °"" ''<* ""^n. «<> ■eturned to Fort Detroft k ' " '^"'"^^^ «'«"'/ ^"-•rendered abovft^o L""! '"^ "^ '''"'"'^d h^ »"« Americans, to Mf Lr ^''^''''''''''l^^al- ^'nd Indians : and I, T'^^'' "^ Canadians *"%an. a BritS fix ^^"'^ '''-'--<• '"vasion of Canada. .'^''''*^' *"• » second *^an Rensselear ih^ ;»able to restrain 'the rash'^"?'"'''-'"-^'''-'' 'fops, gave orders for cL'^T">' ^^ '"'' "' N-gara. The nigh ar„"'/.'' ^'«''8'"« ""gnt appointed (October *■; 1. ' . ^'11-? '' h'k t "I II 11 ! I.i/I y < 1- K ¥fi- 1^ f :4. ■ 1. * -it ? ■'* 4 .; ' ■'*^ !»■ • , r ■si;:; •J HIT i.30 TEDESTRIAN TOUIt, 1 1th) was dark and stormy; and the enterprize owing to the difficulties of the pass, and the treachery of guides, failed. Preparations for embarkation, said the cap- tain, were observed, making among the Americans on Tuesday morning, from our battery upon this height ; soon after a constant volley of balls whizzed harmless over our heads from the opposite mountain: the countenances of my men turned pale as death. Whirling about, in the swift eddies of the river, their boats filled with soldiers tardily approached, whilst a dread- ful Cannonading was opened against them. Even to a soldier and an enemy it was appaling, to view their perilous condition, with a blazing fire in front, shells and bullets dashing up the water on all sides, and many ofthem sinkifig and carried down on the stream. Having effected a landing with the loss of nearly halfj who irere killed, or who, rais- ing the point of landing, surrendered ; the di- minished battalion ran up the mountain with loud shouts and the British troops, overcome by their still superior numbers, retreated down the steep to Qneenston. ^ '■ '^^^ - **'<— ^ '■' With less difficulty, the Americans con- tinued to pass over, when General Brock arri- ved from Fort George, with a large detach- ment, and in his turn made an attack upon the heights. But a random shot took the life of this brave commander and turned the fortune of that hour. It was no rifle shot, said the aged of ; wee] bodj ihe a Tl upon h^id ] and d f>urit] Rear \ siiocki cent c< was, c ^heir ni ^y rout against *^ie sam ihe opp I America I proachin how we Medians p^aze of f^W pre * i ■ i iterprize and the the cap- mericans .ry upon olley of rom the s of my bout, in its filled a dread- t them, ippaling, I blazing g up the kifig and e loss of ho, mis- ; the di- tain with >vercome ted down mang,ed^ount;;„"'/ :'';,^«»"''A fo^d '^ "-ound the disfigufedbodv """"^ ''«»«-- »f "^ the perpetrators "l^ [-"^^ ve„g,,„^^ he same « k . "^"^ lenewed r ; I , wosite banks of ths ,• i'liiing American soldiers stL 1 ''^'■' " ">°"sand P-achi„gftteof the t;^*'''''""^ '"« «P- ^l ^^ yelled; we scrS'"' ' "^""^ ^~^. l/ndians whooped ,, ""^^ '^"^e than eve, "«==«= of roarh,.' r,""'' ''""^ ^"-'^-ed i„ ' b^ -* drove s sr'T-7'' "«= «"««; fW precipice of I '' '^'S'"^''^''. over "4* h^'«<'-'-rL^--t^ The earth ,. "^^-na^.fl account of, he ,fl^;, Hi '^ t. .J, '.i;r; !> f ■ I ■ •■?■■■ ,.M 1 j^ i;^,-;i* V'^ r 132 PEDESTitlAN TOUK. our king and country! we shouted, and the painted Indians rushed onward flourishing the bloody tomahawks.* The Americans knew the unmerciful nature of the savages, and therefore, rather than fall into their hands, they ran with the blindest fury, and precipitated themselves upon the bushes, or dashed upon the rocks at the bottom of the cliffs, which form one side of the chasm of Niagara. We lead on to this spot, said he, moving a little ways down the declivity under which there was an awful precipice ; and hallooing to the battery on Lewiston mountain, which w^as pouring its shot upon us, cried, " Fools ! dont you perceive that the Indians will step firing upon your men, as soon as you stop your own fire?" They stopped accordingly and so did the Indians. By a foot path, down to the bottom of the steep, we proceeded to the conquered Americans. Some had endeavoured to swim across the rapid stream, and were drowned in (he attempt. Many were killed in the fall from the brow of the rocky cliffs. One unfortunate man fell and died in the limbs of a tree, which we were obliged to cut down in order to bury | him. Only four hundred prisoners survived. After the battle of Queenston, the respective] armies retired into winter-quarters. First, how- ever. General Smyth who superceded Van] Rensselear, made a feeble attempt to enter Cana* da near Black-Rock; but was repulsed with] PEDESTRIAN TOVE. lai oving ii ' which 3oing to lich was )lsl dont cp firing our own lo did the bottom ,nquered to swim >wned in fall from ifortunate |ee, which ir to bury vived. •espective lirst, hovr- Led Van] tterCana- ised yfM disgrace. The British troops under Procter aiwl the Indian warrior Tecumseh, gained a victory in the middle of the winter, at the bead of Lake Erie. ' - ^ The campaign of eighteen hundred and thirteen^ opened with an attack upon the capital of Upper Canada. Chauncey conveyed the army from Sack*> ett*s Harbour under general Pike. It appeared to be the policy of Sheaffe, who commanded at York, 10 use stratagems in war, and to destroy an enemy in the safest and most expeditous manner. The Americans advanced in good order towards the ^^arrison, in ^ hich he had retreated, and halted in expectati . rf a capitulation. In an instant the earth was convulsed with the explosion of a large magazine, near the barracks, and the air was blackened with immense masses of rocks and timber, which showered death upon the unsuspecting column. Remote districts felt the tremendous shock; and several Englishmen tliemselves fell victims to the explosion. Two hundred Americans, with the brave and gener- ous Pike, were levelled beneath the descending ruins. The rest of the column pushed onward ;md took the town. It was a dear bought victory, land may be called the third unfortunate onset of the Americans, towards the conquest of [Canada. York was soon after evacuated. - « Now the invasion of Canada, was undertaken it Niagara with some degree of vigour. Ameri- ca could centre her whole force at a spot, 12 1 1 .,» ■ %t ■f; '^' i ) " i.i- ■ ^'i »* \m 134 F£D£STRIAJi TOUA. where England could with difHculty send her 3oldiers. It must he considered highly honoura- ble to us, said captain S— e, that we defended the frontier for so long a time. I was upon my old redoubt upon the mountain, the very ram- part upon which I now stand, from day-break to sunset, watching with my spy-glass the transac- tions at Fort George and Niagara. Yonder Chauncey*s gallant vessels scudded the borders of that great fresh- water ocean. There his boats pushed eagerly around Fort Niagara across the mouth of the river, and boldly advanced towards Fort George. There Scott, — ^whom friends and enemies admire, lead his men to the charge, and leaped upon that high and per- spicuous parapet. This way the arms of our troops under general Vincent, gleamed among the trees, as they wisely retired after colonel Myers had been wounded, from the overwhelm- ing numbers of their assailants, Fort George was taken on the twenty -seventh of May ; and the day ensuing the British yielded the possession of the Straights toDearbon's army. They continued to retreat along the shore of Or^^ario, followed by a part of the American forces, for fifty miles, when they turned upon their pursuers in the dead of night, and took the two generals. Winder and Chandler, pri^ soYiers. Some time after, a small body of British sol- diers were posted at the Beaver-dams, a place I I-EDESTIIIAN TOUR. j^. Bi^^rastrr ^^'"^' -'"- -o-I •nent. His pr^rL 'thro jni.**"'''''''' ^^'^'^^ suddenly stopp^ bv ,nn^ . ^ "'°°^''' ^as »"perior number a„T?^ .""'"' «"''-«''derto •vhen the large armvn '"• *'"'^'' ""* »™* • Indians and f4u,r Ztl^" '' " ^""P^^ ^^ ^Ives by a favourable ' , ""'^"'«^'» t^em. and bushes. "' P""""" """ong the trees During the possession of Fort r»„ - Americans. Sir George Prev^ ?r^" ''J' *« J^d advanced to the Stfaigh s a'n ^?'"""'' '*es ensued in the couS th^ '""" *''*'"- Parties of the British in ?.i """*''• S""*" •rere forced to returl !l"" *'"* B'^^k-Rocfc, The Six^ation: Sil *:l?":''»S any thing! at war with Canada, Srfrili?""' *^''»'*'^«» SorgT tThorint -~ - Fo": American'comie it 2'""'°" "«» "-e a momentous e.pedi«;„ ^^ ^n" ""/^"'*^' K.ngston at the outlet of The iS^^""*' '^'"« in the mean while. Perry's vi^r Ene produced respect and ^^ ' f "''•^ °" ^""^e can naval fo..es. a^d prrvtt7s 1° t' ^'"^"- from risking a final ;„"'«'' ^ir James Yeo "o. Harrison ^iTfr.r'"°"^'^« 0»'a- Wned British and IndlnV.'^ "'""'■"•« ^om- 1:1 §:$] A '['¥. ■',^ U ■'.i ''';;^ 4; ■f '•• ^!. .6 :. 136! PEDESTRIAN TOUR. St. Clair,) in which the great Tecumseh was killed. On the second of October, Wilkinson departed )ipon the expedition to Kingston and Montreal, leaving behind a garrison of militia under ilie command of M*Clure ; who concluded, in December, to evacuate Fort George. The British were rapidly approaching, when an explo- sion was heard, and the beautiful village of Newark was soon aftei seen |in flames. Notice had been given by M*Clure, to the inhabitants for removing their effects, only a few hours previ- ous to this wanton and unjustifiable act. Similar outrages had indeed been committed on the sea- uoard of the United States, by English squadrons : but the system of retaliation is unwarrantable even in war, and reciprocal injuries are always of a growing nature. The approaching army met the innocent sufferers flying in all directions. Each handsome house was soon reduced to a heap of ashes, whilst the cloud of smoke hover- ed over the Americans as they escaped across the river. Here was the commencement of the devastations of the Niagara frontier.* I "'■t> * The difference of the principles on which the war was carried on by the Americans and by the ^.- -H_ is rery s*triking;: the first uniformly disavowed the system of r< Nation for the outrages commit* ted by the British officers, consf Bring them unauthorized until expressly acknowledged by the Bi ish government : on the contrary the British proceeded at once to rr .aliate, without waiting to inquire, whether the violation of the laws o^ > tiy to a great eTt»nf ^*'^*- "he whole coun- Jorced to aban/on^irhr^sliV^"'^''''"^' hideous wilds to Batavia TZa l""'*''^ ""<* '"•nter. The suffered 1^ \ ^^'^ ""^ " ^"^ f iated. and thf^Zr o^T ,7"' '' '^"^^ declared himself wfarie™: " sX' ^""'^ "on. I addressed persons k„! ^ . ° ****"- --eagerly pressinjari £ Te "a^w* k""* ged them to curb the^relentwr' "** ''^- *e feelings of industrL^ u«T„l t T' *o reserve their violence for re^^^rt? '"*' j^ ^r regular engagements 'li \ 4i ■^i 1 • > , 1 <■< ! , ;' .'• ll ! ; f h *! ■ < v-^ r, I i ■J ■ ■■! ■-''ill 4:? 138 VfiDi:81JJlIAN TOUK. on the field, and not to exert their skill in the de- struction of the husbandman*s property. But such is the fortune of war ; much of my own property suffered afterwi -ds, by an incursion of the very people whose misfortunes I had deplored. The middle of the summer of 1314, found Fort Niagara still in the possession of the British ; general Brown, now the commandec-in-chief, was still collecting and disciplining his forces upon the frontier, and general Orummond awaiting with the veteran regiipents, which were fast trans* porting from England, his expected attempts upon the Canadian shore. Captain Buck com- manded Fort Erie, which was suddenly sur- rounded by the Americans, on the third of July, and completely taken by surprise* The Ameri- cans were thus in possession of a strong British fort, at one end of the Straights of Niagara, whilst the British were in possession of a power- ful American fortress at the other extremity. The second day after this event, (July 5th, 1814,) the camp of general Riall, near Chip- pewa, was put in commotion by the approach of general Scott, and after him, general Brown with the remainder of the American army. Without waiting for the attack, Riall assembled his forces and met them upon the plain of Chippewa. His Dumber was four thousand ; the American troops were fewer, but they w^re resolute enterprizing freemen. The engagement became general about five o'clpck in the afternoon, With the utmost '.%{ i^ PEDESTRIAN TdUR. ^3^ rieMea to j::'Zz::z:^'::''^- body, however, advanced, and wuhH "" valour, closed with their adverLl i„ "P"""^ sanguinarv conflict Th« i, ..1 " * "">st bloody, an'd or:;::; dintiorrti "^^^^ ""«• o'-e hour, eight hundred men lav b.^!."""'^ "' the ground. At length the Bri^ k ^"^ "P"" P'^lled to fall back Tfc ' '"" "^■'^ <^0"n- ^ be town, wtn thef^^^rc'^'r'^ '°"°''^<' entre„chments.andthe^Serica7h'r' '"""*' -tory upon the plain of C Swa " "'''^'' R' «>f ^ffl^ The desperate a„H^ °' ** »'"'«'« esperate and unequal contest was I : ■I • • ff '''*•' i; t; ■ ■■ ^ i./f-| 1^' wm. 140 PBDBSTRIAN TOUR. about to terminate in the overthrow of this bri- gade, when Brown advanced, giving orders for the second brigade and the volunteers to follow. The firing ceased. Rial! waited for the approach of reinforcements, before he renewed the attack. The shades of evening descended, whilst the hollow roar of Niagara was again distinguishable above the tremendous tumult of the engagement. The greatest battle of the whole frontier was now about to be fought, and terrible indeed was the onset As the moon looked down with dim splendour upon the fight, and as the earth trem- bled with the weight of ithe adjacent cataract, which displayed its horrors with more frightful aspect than ever, the two armies met and min- gled in the midst of smoke, fire, and whistling bullets, upon the lofty brow of the Niagara. Thrice the impetuous ranks recoiled from each other, and thrice they rushed with increased fury, into the deadly conflict Another pause en- sued, which was disturbed only by the groans of wounded soldiers. Adjacent to a place called Lundy's Lane, was a commanding eminence, unon which the Bri- tish had stationed nine pieces of brass artillery. Against this colonel Miller had advanced, un- daunted by the fiery torrent that opposed him, and suddenly rushing up the eminence, had borne down the dismayed possessors, and made the battery his own. When the British advanced a third time to the contest, this battery scattered destruction among their ranks. They met the extended lines of the X*£DESTR1.VN TOUR. 141 \ for How. 'oach tack, the hable ment. r was d was 1 dim trem- taract, ightful d min- listling iagar^* each dfury, se en- groans le, was le Bri- ^tiUe^y. fd, un- him, bad made to the I among of the Americans with extraordinary firmness, inspired with the desire of retrieving the lost honour of the preceding onsets, and of recovering their can- non. The right and left wing of the Americans, repeatedly fell back from such cool intrepif > shall pecu- scade, tfrom should ers in I assis- ged to erwhel- i bloody \ey will vherever rill rush ing with res, and rret, that nder the the civ- ed them- ng, from of our cumseh, ightened wn that would force of numbers I Hi • ;l •• ' |.S*' i»-i/ and du- different pa loi ■i' !• PfiBESTRiAN TOim. cursions on foot to theliitu u '' '*''"^' «*■ »^ note, on both sides ^ ^^ kI^ """ agara. ^"® straights of Nj, •--tX'^^i;?"^ "''-*« American or Fort :«a J aThi h T'!.'"'^ "^"^ -»*" ^^.p-entLt'^l^tr^-r-'^ received of late considp«.I. * ^''"'^rk. have ?»'•«• Its streng? si"!/^'''"<>"« and re- feacher^ could ^change ."M;"' "'""'"S ""^ »<"•« the appea„.nce .^ a Itron '?T '' "^^ i* common modern fort Th ^ ?"^- """n of valuable fortress, was ^ilf K !u ^^'^''""^ »nd *e year ,725. lIiS ^""= ^'•^"<='' a^out English, and delivered bvth ""'/"''" ""^ *e States in 1796. Durb. th I !? *° *« United (J8.2) a heavy c"nZll "'" ^^ Q-^ension "from the ol^Si'V-T''"'''^'''"^ "'h such intent that 1 k '"' ""^ ^"^'"rned 7amo,eth,„„„*«'/ houses in N,.,,, fc day. two thousand red hot . ?,* '•"'^«°'" ^"ndred and eightv «h»M "''"'*"« and one fort Niaga,. b/S Sh ""''! '"^"-n upon """Wings about^he ^;r' ' '"'"' °^ *e ^-^--he. Of sjtJt-rs '^k^i > 'T / l!->' r 144 B£DESTRIAN TOUlt. '*:h'^ 'V * * * ' . •■'••A- • .*,:', ■• ♦?■',•'•■.**' ' t 'J ■■»^^ ♦^' J ■. ■ ■ ■^- f CHAPTER VI. •r THROUGH UPPER CANADA TO MONTREAL. Thursday, September 27, 1821. -(, i>V ■^^(^' *■ H< I . Sir Peregrine Maitland, Governor of Uppei Canada, arrived at Niagara on Wednesday (Sept. 26th,) from York the capital of the province, for the purpose of reviewing the garrison of Fort George. Taking leave of my courteous friend at Queenston, and his hospitable family, I re- paired to Newark, and engaged a passage for Kingston in the British steam-boat Frontenac* The troops were assembled in beautiful array on Thursday, upon the vast plain mentioned in the former chapter, and after performing all their military evolutions, firing vollies, skirmishing and retreating, were dismissed ; and the Gover- nor and suit embarked. Our passage along the American shore of Lake Ontario, was remarka- bly pleasant. The white bulwarks of Fort Niagara died gradually away, and left the ap- pearance of a low unvariegated coast. Night !i|"i« * Frontenac, now Kingston, was one of the earliest French forU upon Lake Ontario.— Ontario has been called JLake Frontenac. The length of Lake n„/ • •'"d seventy. one „ ; ."^^^ ^"'='"<' '" one hund^d «%-nineanda half .%r ?'*"'*'" '"««'& f^" into it, are the G J ''"""P'" "^^^ '^Wch Black Ri^er, ol t£ "oX' *? ^-^^o. and "iver Trent ;„ the „oX " ^'''^■' ""^ 'he "« ="' at the eastern e«'nV°''- '** '"""^s '°^ in some partea^dn'^' "'* ^''"'•^ are "f ersa.,, re,'.l.1 X^^^^^^ »"'-. "nt are il'e medium depth of th! ^°'"' '•arbours. " ft«>o»s; but i„'^o„:' t ;7'.- - eight,-two J-ate events, as well as fL .! '* ""'athomable. '"e French and Troiuoifna? '°"*"*^ "^'^^'^ """'t of iU bordeiTb, ?"*• '^''° occupied -d Its shoreHndil'^^^^ ^"^^ OntarS ''^ viewed without somet^T '''''''' ^•'«»« Tl>e Governor , °" «'"^t. '»-. appeared Xirand"" ''"'"*^'-»*«» "'"«"-«• That AauT^ ^^ '""^ "«■*'"« « ''i* i'^nglish, and that lofty fam if "''"l''^^^ ^^ *« "<""'i'r. exist no morf T' ^.'""^'r °°^ ">«'• J"% requisite to a pel,^"' ,'^''" ''''«' ''^ ' ''onourable station. "' '"" ^h and Nothing but the sky anrl , of water was to be seen ill *""'°""dichbrighfe„e?mtt^»„,r' «l-«nguishabt -e»ed intogreenTo^;";,nrr'''''"^*''''^' "'<'entations, and discovS^ r'°"*'' ■""* »c». , ° *^'"*«'''«tobethe 13 i'i'J ' -''■! J" ' .... 1 * ■ I f i^'whi ; ii i4() PEDEslRIAN TOUK. ■ i'!;.'^ 4' . |i'^ :li^^' " ■I f I \¥%S 1 south-east coast of Prince Edward's and the n u- merous islands in the straights or outlet of On- tario. Prince Edward's bay, and the commence- ment of the bay of Quinty,* the wealthiest and best inhabited parts of Upper Canada, expanded broad on one hand, with their banks covered with farm houses, and sail boats scudding across their waters ; Galus Island, at the entrance of Sackett's Harbour, Grenadier Island, the ren- dezvous of the American army under general Wilkinson, in the expedition of October 1813. and the Grand Isle occupying the entrance of the Cataraqui or St. Lawrence's receded slowly on our right, with the wild native Indians in canoes, fishing for subsistence about their shores; whilst the beacon to which our prow was directed, the populous streets and extensive barracks of Kingston, spread with extraordinary splendour upon both sides of an inlet, notable at a great distance, by the weather worn skele- tons of two mammoth ships of the line, rising pre- eminent above the highest buildings of the town. There is an appearance of military strength always about a British town of importance, that casts over it an aspect of stern grandeur, which we will look for in vain, in a town of the United States. The east side of Kingston harbour^ consists of fortifications ; and perspicuously situated upon the top of the hill, a row of superb buildings capable of accomodating many thou- gand |roops. The two great ships of the line, * Pronouncf/d Cantee. mmence- upon the same sirlo _ . . -daio„.„„J:t-:-efti^*e.>„„r.„i.Hed ""e peace was conclu^^A ^"^' ^ *°°n «« opposite side are ZVoul '"r ?''• ^P"" *e -<« 'he high warn rt'Sj^r'^^-d boats! fr^'-niDg with archways and tl^" ^"'^ "^^ ««» of soldiers glittering Tn th^ '"• ^ ''»*'««on playing, were standi:^" un T ""'' ""»«<=«« F'-ontenac entered the^ft" *' '""'^'" >»» «•« passenger, the docks we- "i '"'* ''«' "obfe '-eager to see t^ gl^^^^S "^ "^""P"' . Kingston, once the caDhTi f rr ^" ''""'''noe- f'"»ded upon a rockyEk h,'*'^'' ^'"""''•' « %erof earth upon the s«i ^"^ " ^^""^ "^in ""0 ^n,e tin,ea soHd foundt''' '"" """'"'"e at »»d excellent stone for build °" '" *" '«"'»«'. "evertheless compoS^'S^ '': /"^'^--i^ structures. The streets^. . '"" ''"oden ^^'ing handsome. and1i?re^iy'*'"»«'»'<^- 'arge European village xt" IT!" P*"°» ^^ • computed at about four f h '"'^'"tants may be %1'sh. Both the c, '*'"''' *"*• •'•« •»<«% -^e-Vork. and tte hIIT' "' "•« ^tate of *gstoadolla7.lSf"; '"""^^ °' «ve Instead of emh- . " ""^"e. , -<« -«ParaSyT/proLbr ' "''«'''«-. «cending the St. £aw S ' i^, '"^'''od of de. h^ded on footalonrrr^°"'«a'. I pro- fi«t t^versed a rockf t "'"^""' *''°^«' and ""Wctof twentyS'mtif ""'""'"'''«' ; i«;i . ♦( .: k;-;;; f'^*f- :1 \'' '■ ■»., % -4 Iw 1^ •it:'! „;: '^ ^ 148 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. lettlement, designated by a block house and de- nominated Gananoque. From this place, spreads in full view the Lake of the Thousand Islands. The St. Lawrence is here four miles wide, deep and without rapids. 3 A ridge of irregular land about twenty miles in breadth, appears to have intersected the St. Lawrence at the Thousand Islands ; as the land through which I passed on the Canadian side, was convulsed in all the wildness of nature ; huge cliffs and disjointed fragments exposing their ba^re bush-topped faces, in the liveliest rose-red and almost scarlet colours. Through this disjointed and broken ridge, the outlet of Ontario has worn its course, amongst chasms, clefts and fissures, and left projecting above its surface innumerable high rugged rocks, and ex- tremely solitary and romantic islands. Some of them are large, elevated, and covered with pine trees ; the most are lofty masses of rock, through the intricate mazes of which, vessels with diffi- culty wind their devious course. I receded again from the shore, and penetra-f ted another hideous and exceedingly rugged wil- derness, in which I met a great many Indians who still inhabit occasionally the untenantable,.] wood between the St. Lawrence and the great river Ottawa. I endeavoured to converse with some by signs: but the state of affairs were, changed; the red warriors shook their heads, and hurried quickly away from the presence! of the white man. Within fifteen miles of Brock* ty-eig] paddJi now ti coachc feasts biies. Broci ated vi on both this as fi ^nd maj |Xake th had left I ^he help ;i^ .; 5 ''•"e, the soil K ^^* ;»«on begins to eS 'T T'^' "'"» -'«- fort* of civilized iffe ' •"' ''^'""'■^» ''"d con,- smoothly by, .naJ^ZhS "*'"*"•" «°-» ='«»red spot, and capacL ^r "P""'"" ^^"^^ ";«« 'he presence of Ar''"'-''°"*«* «»«'> American shore is no tZT^,""^''^ The B"f«h. Our attentl i, '""" »'"'«d "s the d'^ricts, and the^ilf ^» '<"«ore i„,a„d . •^tt'ed over the cZ^'T "'" "«'^« «Jually f o. stretching therntiL " ** ^"""'l''-"* '"« "Vers, ieafe the rT hlt"^ ""' '«""'* "f --occupied. Emi ' "f i'""'' grounds entirel^r «:«-•. are rapidly ex "'nV'". ^"'"P^' ^oj. *e -ore remVpoSJ »f tt""^'''^"' ^^ *'« compa„,tivei/pop°,ous ; '**"""y' *»<> ^-e'ght years ago- hi, ?'^.""'' "'h'ch thir- poddies of the fur tr^de™ °"'^ ""^ 'P'^hing "o- trembles under the" rT""^"* «'-«»»3! -aches, and resou'dXl't T"^ ''''^«- jr,-ndga.esandth::xt:f7Jt;LLr BrockviJie is a wpFI k i. a'ed village. The Ik «"";?• P!^'«*»%«t«- on both sides of the St I ^'^'^ ""d '^uiar *'« a« far as PresTot -,!;?"?• ^'"'^'' ^elo" , ?»* -ay be conS^'T ' ''^'' ""•* "''^"^ fafc^ than a river. The sT'* t" '"'"' "^ »»« had left at JCinminn J steamboat which I '''-'■e.pofSrnTwTrS''''""^''^'''* ^ IK >s I: i ]■ > t » ; T t . 1 *'' \ |;i[: \ li 150 PEDESTRIAN TOUK* 1t k I t I! IP' 1* ■ , it i''l surface; and here and there woody islands made the channel double, which I per- ceived obscurely through the fog and incessant showers of rain. Prostrate upon the road where it transected a solitary woods towards Prescot, a soldier lay extended, and the favourite companion of many a toilsome^lay, of many a woeful night, the well stocked canteen of whiskey was fallen bottom upwards at a distance, with the precious liquor filtering through the spout in a manner pitiful to relate. I took the liberty of dragging the fallen hero out of the path, and of emptying his canteen of whiskey in a peculiar and expe- ditious style. Prescot is a thriving place. The taverns were extremely crowded ; and here it happened for the first time, that accommodations were refused me, at a crowded paltry tavern, which in the darkness of the night, I had entered : this I as- cribed to the little benevolence, British subjects of the lower orders, evince towards pedestrians. The steamboat Hotel, which has a beautiful terrace towards the water, offered me every- thing that was comfortable and accommo- dating. Opposite this village at the outlet of Black Lake, lies Ogdensburgh, its rival in bu- siness and population. Both are villages of I sudden growth, and both are filled with large [ stores, were, to use the language of my infor- mant, cash is received as fast as it can^be drop* ped into the money drawers. Fort Prevost atn a fr^t. and three ^LV^k """"*"=« »«« «"e.l Johnston, whic" L f"*" '^ " -'"age a" Indian cas.le. UisZ^, """^ "■« «««« of 7' demolished. It !« , "! " ""'• "='""« of'ogs and earth raised to I """"""""». a fabric haWngoneach side of V """"^^'^We height, resembling a wolf terr.hiJ^ *"'"""=« "n imaee 'r constructed on Z too '""^' ""l ^""O"- >vatch.tower. *°P' " ">« of beacon or ■n«^tn S3S "f P~e;as such, as to ^-"hin the jurisdictLorr^ '" "'"^'^^ «ven I«as not surprised r,/^' """« "^ 'Vew-York, f-dom. here! in 1: dollirr "'"^"^'^ SO to extremes both in n T "P^^'P'e who Situated however so nel^thf '"' '" "•""'"t^- of •'.em originali; fXh ,^'"""'' *"'*'»'"J ■nanners are somewhTtTilct ;''** ^'^''''' '"eir ^q-lit, and contemjrird :'*^'"^''-° * respectable looki„g,a„/'f "If' "ctions. A P«'ence of his figird^mon [*! ^''■'■<''»'''«^^°'-- '"ocess of his an1.ual crops r'' T"""-'^ '^- converse, was so very inZ "^ *^'''P°^ to 'hedoor of hismansTo "ti;"'^ '° "''•'' ^'"O'" »cendi„g smile. ,o bid me J^t ""^' ^°'"'«- fecord this as one of fh? ^^ """•''O"'- I tri Wal. which are Lnl ^\'^'='"^'"^. although -d opinions pi^^rrar::^*^"'-^^' •I'ans. Retumins his .»7?f- ^PP*"" ^ana- -i'houtpreamble Jtrr't?' '^ '"•"'-<• - was going, and re- I!-: -^ 111. i ^ >' H ■' li 152 VEDfiSTBIAN TOUR. marked on the fatigue of travelling on foot " You are looking out for land, I should rather guess, sir; if you are, you will find very good and cheap land about here. — Ar*nt you from thr other side ?" • Yes, from the Slates. " So, so ; a man, that lives 'n the house back yonder, came over amongst us, only a few years ago, bought a good farm for only five shillings an acre, married one S — n*s eldest daughter, and now lives as well as any man ; and says he would'nt travel as much again as he did then, not for a township." Are you an Englishman ? " No, I came from Pennsylvania ; why there's nothing but Americans round this part ; and I will tell you how this happened. As soon as Eng- land, to keep up appearances,, had pretended long enough to keep down the rebels, and agreed to let them have what they called independence — (there is no harm you know, to speak one's mind.)—" €ro on. " Well, as soon as England, caring only for the trade of the United States, got them completely | off their hands, there was no longer any possibil- ity of living under the poor ill-made constitu- tion, which was immediately bundled up there,] and so came the loyalists, and I along with themi to Canada, and procured as fine ground as you| could wish to see, for the mere asking it of the governor." - ; "7"W "and .bour, Sl"V "^r '"^^ •• -he '"'^ °' on that, when th. °; "•""»« °» this r:,' ••« e'ven Z7y ^'' '"" y^"' Profits f-l-d'y a trifle to give L^k **■ ^* "aV„t S'^'^P' '""^ no d ;;?'""'* P'^"'^ «f *ve7 '"«S:r altho': S^X r^ '■«'« ana have ters. ^ 'i"^^,"'« not their own was. " ''How?" . :" what is vnii, ^--n of goveC„tT""'"'"»» "^ o- republican ^ne constitution is I thrnt/- from that of England ;t '^'" "'^'P^". copied absurdities along ^JhTt p" ^'''' '»'"^ ft>oliA -e ' as men of proper^ ' d^^'^""^ ^»'« « *«Peopie to the southward T/"'' '"'^''^^ «>' , "S to the number of tS'>'' ""'^ accord- , ° hear shortly of bl^^^''- ^e expect ?over„o„. One cannot^t r^' """""^ "»<» '« /should hold out si llr r "'°"^''' "■«' J»nglmgs, factions and pLt ^' ''''^'« 'continual ^«• of interested pennyless 1' ''V"''^ "" by a "■en another, and illn' ""'""^ "P. »nd •'one by the former th.K "''" "" 'hat was K-inst itself can^sta^,^'•7« ""**•' '^'-'^^ ^ h'e: they will have their t ^ '"" ««« sepa- I/heU„itedStaeX'"^«°on,Iamsure^ B^he'r forces «« fe J ^;'"^ '''•« and compact. -''r'^e th.ne of yourtn^^it: ''''''-' [I I r1 II. ) I 1 1 11 ' ' h,. if '■ I' ■ I' »- 164 PEDESTRIAN TOVK. it A ridiculous war thai ! They began to'attuck Canada at Detroit, like the bear that comes down a tree backwards without knowing of traps at the bottom. And if they should take Canada, a deal of good it would do them ; ha !'* As much service as it does your politic mas- ters beyond the ocean, who send six thousand of their best troops to protect and keep it in sub- jectioD. : .^ " Yes, yes ; but you know the trade the British carry on, would be of no value to the States. But the Americans have some reason to look out along the frontiers ; for it will be no bard matter for us to conquer them all, in another war. We could have done it last war; but just then Na- poleon Bonaparte was strongest against us, whom the Americans meanly and cowardly joined to try if both together could get Old Eng- land under. Good lack ! they wanted peace, quick enough when Bonaparte was down." . But did you not say the United States were an encumbrance before the Revolution ? " Yes, at that time, sartain ; many times we let your army escape and seem to get the better, when we might " -4 It grows late ; I wish you a good morning sir : you are more than a staunch loyal subject, I perceive sir ; and came from the States with the good will of the republicans, there is not the least doubt. This is a correct view of the strong dislike j which hundreds, and especially those renegade w^ere sc istic fea nients f seen, f distinct] Proce [battle gr America Jtion of J hfuiiboats J turned i (of three ] '^"gageme t>»nedimj poops for Americans rag n, ^^ Thi'o *'*'*"'»«'» ^''"'""='«'• of our ^eiocuy upon the n^UtcZl'J "^ "'"' ««« '»P Wands; and of ..»? ' ""°"S "'" Ga/. ^«« India prodl" «!„ 7" '^^" «"«<» "iA Pf«nch Canadians. Ifl r^ft /"'"' °'" «»« -t'ousi, descending tS:,"'^^:;^ ''""'' -^-^ ">e roads were fil|ed%vit,?f u' '""P''''' ""d '"S raAs«e„, both on fZL7r °^ '^'"^n- f families of Scotch a^d r . ^°"*'"'^''' ""d «d attained this d a^fi^V'"*'^"'''^' '^h" ■''^^- Neat and sometiml '^ P°" °^ Q"e- -ere scattered upoHIe bll.'"'^"'"'^''"' ^'^'<^^. '»"^ feature of a Brit Sf c„ f' '""' "* '^'•"'•aoter- ™«"' for brewing e ^ ''^ ''"'•" '^""""h- «en- Hamilton an L "^^^^asiooall^ to be He ground! ::SciLfs rr: "^^ "°"=<' American forces, i„ th? ^'''' *'""•<' "'e "»■' of ,8,3. ,„„ rbefoTT''"' '"P^"'^- f ""boats and artillery of 7' '"'"^^ed by ,he I'wned upon them anH Ir. ^"^"'y- "t last [fa.re«hoursupon'thei'V^''-P conflict ^ hsagement,theVmerica"''r''- ^" ""is Hed impetuosity andbra"^"^^ *^'" ''«"«- rP» for a mile before th2* ''"^'^' '^^ ^"'"h «ore them, over the Wines .^1 4- >' (I f » , 1 U .:. (|, !■ , ' 1 , . «. i , .?! ; i-^^ i i- ' I'f ?' ^' .', , f: i* 5 hi ,* ' r ) 160 PEDESTRIAN iOUK. and fences of the field of battle, until their uui munition being expended, Covington appeared conspicuous at the head of his brigade, advanc- ing to their support; when a sharp shooter leveled his piece from a window of Chrystler's house, and the brave general fell dead from his horse. Without further molestation, the army embarked and proceeded down the river. At Williamsburgh people of the most adverse national characters appear to be collected. Dia- lects of Scotch, Irish, English, Low and High Datch, and the language of Indians, may be heard sometimes from one station. It is a curi- ous picture of a new settled country. - * : At night, understanding there was a country ball or dance in the neighbourhood, I obtained the interest of a person at the inn, to get admit- tance. The room was large, in a respectable farm-house, and the company brilliant. The scene was interesting to me, on account of its novelty. A venerable grey-headed fiddler " the bard of olden times'* kept up the never-ceasing screaks and saws, and beat time with his riglii foot, his head nodding in unison, so forcibly, that the glasses of the sideboard, may be said to have answered the place of a cymbal. The ladies, not at all deficient in beauty, and their faces glowing beneath graceful straw-hats instead of head-dresses, and the gentlemen, not a whit the more disliked for their lofty persons audi heroic broad shoulders,, acted their parts witl engaging ease^ simplicity and good humour. l-MESTHlAw TOUR. , Water mills are *>i»i. 'r^/r^en. eZ2;':Z'!'f yarded, or «<■ old wind-mi,!,, as well a« """ '""""'"« operation, are to be seen , ^ °"'' '" «""al of the St. Lawrence pr^*''* Canadian shore 'engthy rapid, tl>e fmm^„H "' 'f"^ ^""S ^aut, a ^••eaten, des truct o„ !, S"' '"''''"' °' -''''='' '"-"ffh it. piers o dam, e' r*" '"=" -"'-e beach, part of .he currm ..? n""''''^ '"'""» ">« -"r. the Wheels of "aw a^d : ' r''*^' "'"^ '" '"is «>. Even here they are 1 ^ ""'"' "'"^ '""'- ' *« 'argest, I counted 1 1! ' f' "°""'' ^^ "^ o-^^, with bags of l^J'T V "^ ''^«''"' ^"'J i"n. to be served, or dri Wn '"^ "'^'■'- ''^-"ar .The miller's hous . which ^fs'T ^''appointed. '•>S with wines rnL * " ''"«' brick build ~ch, and he aiaST 1 '"'"^ ?<>'«»" 'bO'^e countrymen inTr** '° "^^ -""rted by "^ere attending i„ their eouin'^""'' "' ''^ """^'^^ r».neariy:;;:sT::r'"''^'----s. f'T '-ne of the vlZ^,"' '^'""■<^*e bound ,,J'a'^>-ence.a„d^hereSt r1 ""'"^^ "^e St- P'^^d Indians, is situated o^";: "'""?« "^civi- Hd of a small boy thf" '■°'''' ^ '"q"'- K ' -hen he infi":,? °'r ^ ""j-'* '" ^^ pointing to a glfml""', J'"* ^^^a* earnest- f--" an illu,tr,ti„„ of^h? "^T"'' '"'" '"'^'■ K-'-ted in themi„d3of hect ^.rP^^^^'O"" ot the Canadian ch/Wren V'l: ml k '( . > . ilHIi I 1 I 158 PEDESTRIAN TOtriE. i<:- I :1.: M^ i. !A M " ■ f _. * i ^ 1 ■ 7 ,11,! •■ :?■ 11: Mt toward Americans. An Indian from St. Regis, clad in a doublet and pantaloons coarsely manu- factured out of a blanket, was paddling along in his canoe, as I advanced on the bank of this large and extraordinary river : the tin covered spire of that village glittered over the hills, bright and dazzling in the rays of the sun. The new horse- boat was seen descending the current ; but my plans would not permit me to enter on board of her, as she stopped at a point to put some passengers on shore. ' ''~^ Foaming and surging downwards with great velocity, the impetuous river, after making the Kapid Plat and Long Saut, suddenly expands in- to the smooth lake St. Francis, twenty miles long, and six broad. Lancaster, a scattered hamlet of Scotch emigrants, lies in sight of the lake. Here the road discontinues, and a miry foot track leads through the woods and marshes around St. Francis, to the commencement of the French -settlements. I met the native lords of the forest, shooting water-fowl on the meadows with great adroitness, and endeavoured in vain to converse with them by gesticulations. Two families were busily employed in the skirt of the woods, near the water, in preparing maize, dressing skins, and manufacturing useful articles from flexible wood and barks. They had turned two beautiful birch- bark canoes bottom upwards upon the beach, in order to dry them by the heat of the sun. The squaws were at work, but the men were lolling prostrate upon the ground, which tothem,[ H * The te Canada. __^-i2l!?^ ^ --.."»■ 159 tobe haystacks ; until 1?^ V""^'' t^em found them to be Freth ^T'^' •"'"•^' ^"'d one story elevated high 1w.?k ""'"' °^ ""'^ *«" peaks, a,) of Thet '^^■-''""d. with ^"■anged at equal distan'^ '' "'"'"' «»<» -ir. tran.po^s the rteK;„'- t^'^^^'^P* ous'y into a new region I ""^ "istantane- f-lc:::xtfheTasrf^'-^^^^^^^ En^land. OnTuni:: st ^ ^^^ ''-'^- ^v,.. one universal mode of ac^h^^ T ""'^"''' °'*=*. sal character, prevail f 't """""' °°^-""va--. vinceisente^d iaZ """"^"^ '"-^"-o- ;een within half a mile JaLTleTto th '*"'"'' '' ^° "« ""margin of which, the road i^ "'■■■ "'""S •■"cted and the hou es ' f ^-n^on'-V con- "eatness and care ml ^L'""'""^'^- Extreme rectangular fields. anT hV? """'""''' *« '""g -<» -piements/^Des^S;" "'"'''^'"^^ stamped a feature of r . '^'"^ *° have I Plodding, unambitious IZs^^'^'T "P°" "■« ,/■".. fe™ c.„.di.„ ,. ^'^"''''y' ""lose ,nind. 'nI:!^* ■I i'^' ■ '-, ■ • '1 \m i 160 PEDESTRIAN TOVS* }■ ■ R 'I ■:, f. are, moreover, awed into superstition, by the displayed crucifix of their Catholic priests ; — and as the American journies onward, he cannot refrain from exclaiming, when he recollects the freedom and joyous enterprize of his own coun- try. How different is this from the United States ! At the Coteau du Lac, where there are strong fortifications and some spacious buildings, I was entertained for the first time, in a French inn. Or- der and the greatest cleanliness are observed about the rooms and decorations, and the stranger is immediately considered as an inmate of the family, whose agreeable ease and pleasing deport- ment would indeed make him so, let him be ever so distant and overbearing. ■ , . ,. The Cedres is a place of considerable com- pactness and size ; and contains a very magnificent Cathedral. The houses are stone, and the streets, of which it has more than one, are extremely narrow. Like a trans-Atlantic village, it bears a venerable cast of antiquity. On account of a violent breeze from the north, it was impossible to obtain a passage at this place, to the opposite shore of the St. Lawrence. Many violent rapids interrupt the stream! between lake St. Francis and its confluence with one of the mouths of Ottawa or Grand river; buti at the Cascades, where several inns rather thaD| private dwellings, are collected on the banks the Ottawa, I procured a Canadian, for doubly price, (67 cents) to ferry me in a mere pine tre ^^"ESTRUK TOP,. leg, hollowed and sh,n.-i • ^^'-.h one oAtt^dCerr""' ^'"^"^ St Lawrence. Over the GrL ' ''P"''"'f'he of MontreaJ. it is ^^ f^^J'^*"'' ^er to the Isle Lawrence is a ™i,e ^jj/^'' .7 .;•"=. and the St. '"to the lake of St T . ' '! ^^P'^n'J' again -Pi''^ the ascendt ta. ''^ '"^ ^"•°»'-" «hort canals, and descend ''^^^rawn through ;'.-- forced to J::iT!r T'' "^ ^'"»- '"^'"••e. The fur-traders » / ^^ '=""« =°nve- north-western Indians that ar! ^'"" """"-ers of ' '» Montreal, instead of ntTr'"'"""^ «°«k'ng ="''' St Lawrence on St"'^''"^^^'"' ''''^- """nt the outlet of Lake Ni„'^ '° "''" ^''r. 7°«« a few miles over Taj r^' ''~°' H"ron ;^^»cending that great ri "'\««''-a, and I'et'veen the upper anrl I "'^ boundary -arl, one hai? of t.^ 1 ^r P"--'--. cut off have followed. Comm ' -^ '^°"''^ °^''erwise -n the forma. J:ra'^S"r- '"'^ '^"^«^^" "'"age nine mil... fr„' ,] ' '^'°'" ^a Chine, a ™'^^. one mue from teitr'"'''"'*'^-'''^- I % hoary Charon with h'L' I'erson to assis,. tu^eed k ''""^' '"'' """""-^ Kjapid. .heLKioCfr"'''^'"''''''-^ dashmg against rocks 8^/1 '"'"^^^ "<■ "-e river hy of the wind, rend ' : '"'"""' "^^ 'he Kt perilous. I apnea !h "'"''"°» ^"'"e- fnere hollowed log shouir^ '^'"'"•'^'""e> 'hat a ["ous water. Gel nrauit'' """^ '"^^ '"'»"'- kos-te side, and accent „: tl"* I ""^^"^ ''^ *"« - t^e sake of expert "n! h^ tT °'" ^■«'"''' 14 * "S the nature of this ijl ^1; f1 ■ !-,i?i ^ Idi PEDESTRIAN TOUR. r' *■ •*•■ G M M ' :' ^ Canadian vehicle, rode to Chataugay, among houses of a grander appearance than common : they are stone, white-washed, and have the threshold of the door elevated seven or eight feet above the ground. -n^..^ Chataugay is a populous village, scattered on both sides of the Chataugay river near its disem- boguement. By the name however, of a place like this, in Canada, is properly understood a seigniory or certain district, in which the chapel and principal inn form a sort of nucleui. A fme stone bridge spans across the stream, and numbers of vessels float about the small harbour. Brisk life and industry,is shown conspicuous by rolling charrettes and calashes, labouring me- chanics, trafficing Indians, and busily occu- pied matrons and children, who seem to take a pleasure in displaying openly their domestic employments. A small romantic island closely blocks up the mouth of the river, and among the tall trees that waved heavily above its banks, I Sf-w wash-women spreading the clothes they had washed in the river, upon the common bleaching plats, or hanging them on the branches of the | pleasant grove. By moonlight I proceeded six miles hence,! through a lonely woods, to Caughnawaga, a very considerable village of Indians upon the banks ofj the St. Lawrence. Their dwellings are similar! to those of the Canadians; large and closely comj pacted in several narrow streets. There are two Catholic chapels. Among them, arq 'li In thi ^0 Moni ^'Jrcumsi Pieasanti 163 some French ag well „ Fn I ,. Englishman keepa the fn? "„ '■'''''^°"" "n fnd traffic with the whitL " *^ '^"cuKure ''ave accumulated IaT« for*"' °'*'*^ ^'""'"'^ unusual to see themdfLl .""?; '"'' '' " ■">' -th great pompor/j^S lonfrT ' '" ««*' vmgbehind, pendant in T .°''?'''a^k hair wa- 'a'e.I met n'merou bov/nr'"'- "^"-^O ** -a* <"^n in thestreets and ^ '^"^'"^S^'nes of their dark, talking i„ ,„, 'v^^t ^"'-''^ ^ '" "'" glass casements, observedlh "* "''°"«'' th« "'■'^'es enjoying all thl ,' '""'^""^ «»»"/ civilization/ AlahttXr'r °^ ^"-P'^'e "'aga.I went out of a "ft "^^ '" ^*"^'"«'- marked their limits of th» / °^ ^^^' which '''"g'lom,andagri„:te;eJTr^'''^^'''''««°ct or five miles ; if the m wi T^ '''^ ''^ ^^'^ c'ouds obscured the mool °'"'''^''' «« ™ing »avage tribe passed me ru,tr ^ ^""''^^"^ <"'"'e »»d 'vrapt in i^^ge whl M J ""°"« *^ ""ees "idnight. when 'l T.^ le^'lf '" '' -» -- rm-houses, in^uj,, ^J^^ a' «»•»« Canadian em still awake! k„ifti;!;j'^ '""•. -»" ^und rersmgwith the men J^^ f f "'"'§' "•■ con- Gallic landlady Zs\,Z, '^^'' Ares. My appearance at soS JT ^"'P'-°- of m^ "^-Planation soon o„ci ° "d "' '^ "" "^''^ In this description of^h ^' S°°^ '^'"• '" Montreal, I llj^" '•°'" f'""'" Kingston K-«stances n>ar r 'de7" "rr"''''''' *"«» pleasantness of thp ,„ Justifiable. The *''' journey, and its being a * ,: • <*i ;. 3 i i f !?i i ■ 164 PEDBSTRIAN T017A. \\ ■I 1 1 -"Mi favourite course to American pedestrians, as I found traces on the way of students from our colleges having walked over the same ground, are reasons for such particular details. The most interesting method of travelling this dis- tance, is by taking the steamboat to Prescot, the stage-coach to Cornwall, the horseboat to the Coteau, a calash to the Cedres, the steamboat again to La Chine, and a coach thence to the place of destination. A line of stages also run at a!l seasons without interruption. ' La Prairie lies nine miles obliquely across the river from Montreal, which is seen beyond the expansive surface of water, glittering from its me- tal ic roofs and steeples with great magnificiencc. Immediately behind the city, rises suddenly above the level country a lofty mountain, that adds greatly to its beauty. , • The village of La Prairie is populous, exten- sive, substantially built, and remarkable for the collection of inns. In its vicinity are capacious barracks and breweries. The delay of the ferry- boat here, caused rae to proceed two leagues fur- ther, in front of another regular file of Canadian houses, which were awkwardly contructed with a door only in the rear. Every seigniory or par- ish seems to have its fashion, by deviating in some little particular with respect to the style of building. Fashion is the bauble of the French; and notwithstanding the uniform sameness of| dre^s and manners of the peasantry, we may dis-j €0ver some small distinguishing mark, of a red I peai iarg< houfi stanci ships have miles conce novej streets Hotel ^igated the wh< Jentatic Mon< to the s ' hollo w- wountai led the t lare still pts Jengtf [tion, twei Je inhab ^ans, the ire equally '^d and m i lap perhaps instead of. h. '"'h instead of one dL," * T*' °'" °'» yelW ^-%characteri.e:o:rd'2:t"S* '^'•■^'•^- .V ""^^ "^^^ni another. "■•ge city, is eir tV^" '^''' '"> ">« ''<'"^«. as strong aToasf,^*''^7- '^''' ^'^^- f «d pre-eminem upo„ tt T^"" "^''^'•"''le. f'P^. brigs, steamboau I ^ '^'' ''''"'^' '-Wch '»;« *us PenetJed 1' th ""i "'^*- "x'' «»'« froM the Gulf 7s. ^ '^^^ """"dred conceal. Nor is the JJ ^""""^"'^e. Partiy -vel „he„ its interior's'SaT' ?'.""'"«« '-« 'treats tn.versed. and t, r^.K*!!"^' ''* '=°°«n« « ^««- I on. twenty-five thou«„d 1""'* ''^ P^P"'"' r -nhabitants are Ensl.J, f? ^'■^''* P"*'' «><" K *e two languZ p'*"^ ^'""^ Ameri- h equally used. TbHuM '"'' ^»»''*. .Ji-fei/ ,* I 166 PEDESTRIAK TOUR. i . ♦! i m i !' are, like the dwellings, permanently constructed of a hard grey lime-stone. As a commercial mart, this city rrmks high. Situated at the confluence of the Ottawa, and St. Lawrence, it transmits most of the commerce of the lakes and of the north-western tracts. From the Great Canal in the State of New- York, its commerce will, however, suffer considerable deterioration. Fur-traders have long attempted in vain, to transport their goods expeditiously by means of small rivers and creeks, to the Hudson, which is at once accomplished by the canal from Erie to Albany. The streets of Montreal, are excessively thronged with a busy populace, and we can scarcely move through St. Paul's, without jostling against merchants, Canadian voyageurs, and troops of north-western Indians, who, gorgeously arrayed in fine blacic blankets, wear, both men and women, little Euroily.t pean hats oddly put upon their heads, and stroll about the shops and market-places, with deer and] moose skin mockasins for sale. A range of public edifices of the noblest sty lei of architecture, occupies the highest ground o(| the city, and from their windows is obtained a fine view of the environs. Behind them, is a publiclumt green, in which, among the vistas of poplars, thJew- ; citizens find a delightful recreation ; and beforfiudi them, at the head of a market, stands to the mefod ^ •I mory of Nelson, alarge pediment and column, witinids appropriate figures and inscriptions, and the herfcble himself represented on the summit. Continuiifmsej n tl ar \m roi mo IB. itly constructed city ranks high, he Ottawa, and jf the commerce -western tracts, teof New- York, Per considerable long attempted is expeditiously creeks, to the npiished by the The streets of ^ed with a busy 1G7 along Kotre Dame strf^Pf^r extcns vebujidina .« .. '^^^^an^e. This is an ""'"■ng attending uDon "' "" '^'" '» ">« -y. the Grey Sister, ofl.^;;'' '"'°"'- "- »«^'r the Recollet Convent I ' "T '^'•'■''^- a barracks. *^"'' ""^ cl-...4,'ed to ,'' .'' °"'r the alteration here anH .1. , 'el'g'ous institution intoT r ^'^°'^*°n'e f "t, that reminds "soHh! T ""^ *'"^'"'«''- ,. „„„., .ti„s place has underJnV w^"^^ °^ '"^^'ers r move through land gloomy cathedrals 7 ""^ <^«nvents linst merchants, Imonks and priests passin t *^^" "^'"^ *™'"'d. ofnoith-westernlrobes. and scholars of ,1 ''^''' '""S black id in fine black lalong habited in a Dec. r^ 'fmmaries running nen. little Euro.l;,believe it any buVtZT "T"'"^' '*«c«n hard- heads, and strolliic city it ,vas formerly '*" ''^"''""y Catho- !8. with deer and! The Cathedral of Notr„ n fVmes, though rouj^arH ''' '^^ ^'""^^ the noblest stylefce outside, is ma 16$ PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ' • 1* ' lf i . ::f> ^ 1 ' ': hf 1 \ pious feelings, which the empty glaring walls oiu protestant fabric, can seldom excite. Contrasted with this, is the English church, a lofty pile, which is but lately fmished. Whilst in Montreal, I was hospitably enter- tained in the house of a friend, in the Hay Mar- ket. Having visited tliis city once before, I merely made some excursions, about its vicinity, and in the afternoon of Saturd^, ascended to the top of the mountain, (Mont Real, or Mount Royal) from which it receives its name. The path is circuitous and difficult. On the sum- mit is a flag sLatr and a rope swing for pedes- trian parties on holidays. But no prospect is obtained, on account of under-brush without climbing up one of the tallest of the trees. From the leafless top of a venerable oak, where I found remaining, the initials I amongst others had cut, and recollected my having shaken acorns from the boughs, and carrying them with me to New-York, spreads a wide prospect, limited only by— ^ ** ' •' •• —the eternal vault, That bounds tbi hoary oceao.** The Chamhly, or Boleil mountains, are seen prominent in one direction ; the hills of Vermont i and New- York in another; the course of the St Lawrence, sweeping past the resplendent city immediately below, with its beautiful islands, and es[)ecially St. Helena: the large island of| Montreal, isle of Jesus and Bizarre, are em- braced at once in >k «ve«I mouth, of Z X'""" ''*"• «»<' *e R-ie.* des Pmiries a„d^; r; "'T'^'^'y '" •re distinctly traced winV'* *** ^*- •'«'"'. ndgy hill after hill fad^ ? °**'" ''"•ection, green into blue, fro^tuf?!?"^ "'"'' '•~"> dusky to the pa fe hTe of / .''""^^* '""^ ^om On the slope of th! "' ^''P*"'"- '"g the i^gulartr^ps if f °"*"'' ^'' '^''-^- g'»ndandi„tere,t3;°X'''"'''''''° '"'''«'' Sherr;riit\^r:T ■''-'' ''nhel.ady fan.boats. which naSe S'l ""' "•^""'"""e 'he St. Lawrence anlf ^ / '""'" P^^'on of <>{ Montreal '' '""'" '''^''«" '» ">e city Ji J: if- • ;/f * f >u- - -,i 15 I , ii; in » i ' 1 1 n.r . i 170 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. CHAPTER VIL (BOM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, THE FALLS OF CUAVOIERL AND MONTMORENCI. Saturday, October 7th, 1821. if the passage (rotn Montreal to the city ot Quebec, could be accomplished altogether in day- light, one would hardly wish to perform a more agreeable and attractive voyage. But circum- stances render more than twelve hours during the customary passage, for viewing the well in- habited and highly cultivated banks of the St. Lawrence, not often to be expected. Although we sailed above half the distance in the dark, it may not be thought improper to mention cursorily the principal places we passed even in this way, of a river so important and so cele- brated. Longueil is a village not far below Montreal, through which immense droves of cattle pass from the State of Vermont to that city. The ferry boat over the river is worked by ten horses. Boucherville, Verechercs Repantegny, St. Sul.| pice, la Valtr6, la Noraye, Dautre, are beautiful villages or seigriiories, scattered in succession u| on the banks, which are low and champaign ; eacl » «• >2« •id are u (iiree /buj tr6toH„ ^ • govei for beaver St. Latirrei I *>»«:•« eel 171 ^ CUAVDIERL the city ol ;her in day- rm a more at circum- urs during tie well in- of the St. Although the dark, 3 mention assed even ind so cele- r Montreal, cattle pass city. Thel ten horses. Y, St. SuH re beautiful xession u| paigni eaci nasitsheaestonechurrK ^ .- polished siJver in Ihe . ^'''^'"^^''^'"P"'-^ ^arm houses arXSv".V'^^^^^ '^umbers as to reseml th? "'^ "^ ^"^'^ ^i-n of a scattered X^^^^ '""^'""^^ ^*^^^n«^«- SoreJ or William He^i., P^jition upon the outlet Tf T?'' "'"^ ^ '^^ ^nd its fort and ^rnson . ^ " ^»^aniplafn, ^ome importance"^ C T '" '' ^ ^^-" <^ ^omes ten miles fernn^' ''"^ ^^ '^"gth b^. ^ J^^ Of the gSt AnS* "'"'^ ""^^ ^^ -^m ^»rshy shok p,i">"^^ 'f ^'ounded by n^ght through the L^IoJ'^^'^f^'^ «afl it the ^v^r v^„tu>,d. and in the Sn ''' ^"" ''^^- Jed With a ^iglitof mr""'^'^^^^^^^^^^^ ^stefei^edthfe third lai^to"^,^'^^^' ^^'"'«^nfy rie6 riVi^r* fiear Vfcjch H ' fJackatSt. Maii. o<^c^ions th, natne bf te and •^'ir& --^"^«» sxt: 'r ' ■•" ^"". .i * ' n i'; » . ( ; t»' lU 172 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. Montreal and Quebec. The houses stretch three fourths of a mile along the shore. There are no wharves, though vessels in great numbers con- stantly stop before the town. The beach is crowd- ed with canoes and bateaux, and frequently the people are observed rowing in unison and accompanying their oars with the Canadian boat song : one stands at the stern of the ho9t and and brandishing a paddle in the air, strikes the water twice on one side and then twice on the other : it is probably an Indian custom. The banks become bolder, and covered with houses and villages too numerous to be men- tioned,* as we advance towards the rapids of Richelieu, where the river is contracted and the current, especially at ebb tide, dashes tumultu- ously over the rocks. Richelieu rapids are about forty miles from Quebec. The length of nine miles or three leagues, is remarkable in all the divisions of the Canadians. The churches along the river are said to be generally nine miles apart. La Chine is nine miles from Mon- treal : Caughnawaga, nine miles from La Prarie, and La Prarie nine miles from Longueil, as many from the city, and twice nine from St. Johns. It is five times nine, (forty five miles,) from Mon- treal to Sorel ; forty five thence to Three Rivers, about the same to Richelieu rapids, and nearly as many to Quebec; thus dividing the whole • "All along from Quebec to Sorel, the river abounds with islands and the banks on both sides are so populous that they lotA like twoj continued villages of fifty leagues long," AteouiU qf JVw Frs tretch three here are no mbers con- :h is crowd- frequently jnison and ladian boat le bo9t and strikes the ^ice on the n. , ►vered with be men- 1 rapids of bed and the !8 tumultu- rapids are i length of kable in all e churches trally nine From Mon- La Prarie, iil, as many St. Johns, from Mon- ree Rivers, and nearly the whole 'fe*>tmtAk iobh. «J^I mtm,. "* **'^ ^h'^f citiei fiitb fo„, -^^ ^^T,X^^f^ evening «, »g up the rock byZtZ "'^ ^*^"ca. wf„7 "•edim beams of the n.l' , "'' '°''«'y. whilst "^-ve bulwark, ,;,h:r f •"'^"^'"-ed tt ^Wements. I parsed thZ'ht '^"^ '"^'n "■* Crossing the pja^e d'arl ^ "** "Oclosed ^te -en the monasTarv oTth T' P^^^-dinrbt '-"y Hotei, where T r^^ • , * ^ ^^^^ to ----ofattentioVth^t^it^-ateJ '•<*'«) *atHudIr„T*'''°"'"'^»«'"eti«e ^a"his„a.e"'Tn rre^r^-'^i FH'nee. commanded by Pont? ' ''•""PPedin ^"•npany Samuel de Phf ^""'^' '"'^">c in his pamplain commenced a 2/'"'' "f'^'' '^at K of an Indian viil'; a' cTT' "P"" «»« ^^e «Outh of S, ChaTes rS ?"'"°"'' "»' j^,«'ver: a spot, chosen (■■• ; |; t!i i I ■' M t I'* I il <• ! 4 H.T-^ i 174 VEDESTRIAN TOUR. on account of its natural advantages, and as a proper station for a fortress against the savages, and a capital city to a new and extensive em- pire. At first the French settlers were harassed greatly by the Indians, with whom, however, they found means of ingratiating themselves in such a manner as to make them their attached friends. When Quebec after eighty years, became a place of some consideration, the British, in the war between England and France, sent a great armament against it from Boston, and six hun- dred troops and Indians under Colonel Schuyler from New- York:* they were repulsed with great loss and obliged to retreat. Count de Frontenac returned the assault, and marching into New- York, fought against the Onondagas, ravaged the country, and was at last compelled to retire before the allied British and Iroquois. A powerful English fleet sailed in 1711 to at- tempt once more the reduction of this place. Through the temerity of Sir Hovendon Walker, the Cadmiral, in approaching too near the Seven Isles in the St. Lawrence,-many of the largest ships were cast away and three thousand men were lost; and the army, which was descending from Mon- treal retired in consequence of the disaster. About the year 1754, the French inhabitants! generally of North America, became so barefaced * About this time (1690) the French lurpriscd and burnt the towol •f ^chenecttdy in the state ef New-York, end murdered most ^lb(| injhabilMits. }, and as a he savages, insive em- re harassed , however, mselves in iir attached became a tish, in the mi a great d six hun- el Schuyler ulsed with Count de marching Dnondagas, compelled [roquois. 1711 toat- this place, on Walker, r the Seven irgest ships [1 were lost; from Mon- ister. inhabitants [) barefaced ^KDESTRiAN TOUR '■-.irxsrsir ""^ ^''^^^ »--- ^'^^ his flee, to he S. 7"- '""''""«" where he captured .Jit ^ ^«''fo"ndla„d ••^'-'ities were coll:: Jr;'' "'^'' "^ -«- generated between EnS . " "«'' '^"'^as '008 were carried on wfc ?" ^"'"'^«- OP*"- In America, though the rf 7 J'^''"'"' ^"^Pe- '" ""e or two int nee, S ff'""^ a de£ their arms. ^^ '^*'' ™ostijr attended *e ferocious Indian t^^^''^.^^^ -"" «ost all "'^o to invade their territoril " """""y- but »nne, them to the domSl '/"^ '^ P^^'We ^veral expeditions weru^dL? .^'^' ^"'«'». 'he "ame time towards Car. n'"' •^'''^^ed at "'ga and Crown point nCI '"''^ '■ '^'■^""de- Quesne on the river ohi T""' ""^ fort du f '"iam M„rn"w^t\icf °"^'"*"'' •"" «' Jeotm and Lake gIoI 1?;"""' «» ^ova- ft;;^d in taking the J^a^"? ^ '"''er «nt General Braddock w^Tr "'' ""^ ''a ••y the French and Sr.w""'^ *"<* billed -^huscade. as he raX t '" "/ ''''^^- '« J^^ghan unknown forest T"'.'" "-""P' Quesne. Our ffreaf r ' '°'^*'"''» Fort du h B-'»TMtA>, xoui,. trivance. Itg out r • """ ^" -'"•<='-. face the t^o coi^r*'"' *^'» ''^^ of "Pon the verge of the ,5*"' T^"' ""d have and batteries. The p«rl "'"''^ "<>«« wall ^ P'"-.. is « firm Ton"?' ''t''''''^''^™'' """y feet high and fifi'T """' ""'' """Part <^»'te.n8. ,vith a deep moat . '»*«"nediate *<>*«• This forms The i'.""-""'^ "■"' ""'- ^l-ouf one square mile in tv? ""'' «"^'"«e'' ""Whines, barracks *;,"t,r'"'^\''^« -"nUined ■"anr private houses aS """"'^ "'"'^ings ''»». 'be celebrated etoS T" "*' "«''*« ^'^vt '^esolittlekno.nt^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ of the city of Queber J ^"«'«'' ""e name "itb *efortrer„ *:• l^.^^P-hended. togeS rf houses upon the b^VnT"' " "'""P"-' «ne f the point, denomi^attd i'?'"'^''P ^'^'""i kuildings upon the hill I?; ^ '""'" '<>'»''. the , «^;ed St. j1., sub^l°td Vp** ""»^«! collection of small dSj' ^ ^°'=''''. « '^We H of St. Charles rita^or'r? "PO" the pef portion of the Z: u "'"'''' Po^'ess the kehartlj, begun ewem tie '"""' ■"" ''"'oh •''-ns.spefk;:^ *;tr'^ ""^ "'-<' of " the heights of bLZJ'"^ '^^ houses; ^^■•ohthe famous ITCoTm'"' '"" '"'^ «c.p.tated ; and more to L '^^^"""orenci is P' ■ III''/ I 1[ \' it p t li I ';.li ((! 1 h m ! t ^' 178 PBDBSTltrAll TOUR. and ditsky, in the clouds of the horizon. Iti a direction southvrest, are the ptaiira of Abmham, and two miles ot), a stiMll curvature of the bank, which since the important battle originating there, has received the api>ellation of Wolfe's cove. The fleet arrived at the isle of Orleans in June, upon which the troops l^anded and encamped. According to the Geuemrs orders, it was imme- diately made khown to the inhabitants, that their property and privileges should remain unmoles- ted, if they observed a perfect neutrality in the dispute between England and France : but this, although a generous proposal, was asking more than they as good subjects ought to observe, and in consequence of their joining with the Indian parties in annoying the camp, many disorderly acts of the soldiers towards them were passed over without punishment. The firbt operation was to seize pointe Lievi, opposite Quebec, which is a narrow space of ground surmounted by high i shelving l>anks. This was accomplished, and the lower to«wn by the fire from ike battieries, was soon reduced to «ishei». In the night after a{ tiokint storm had scattered th^i^eet and destroy- ed some of the boatft titid transport!^, fire-8hifK| were discovered floati^ig towards th^ isle "Of Or^ lean^, whicih M. de MontdatAi the Frettch ig^e-| ral, h!ad serit down for the purpose of firing the Bluish vessel's, then Itiyii^ Vei^ ntettr *^ch otherj Some boa>ts "Were de^pi^ttied tutntmed with sai( kyr«, who daontliesdly WeVit tm ibblird «f the Ri ship^ and towied them aiihOre, Wheire th6 tifeii ^^^ ^rizon. Iti a >f Abmham, of the bank, mating there, fe'fi cove, aaris in June, i encamped. t tvas imme- ts, that their lin uninoles- trality in the c6: but this, asking more observe, and h the Indian y disorderly (v«re passed Jt oiperation rebec, which nted by high bed, and the ittieries, was ight tider a ttid destroy- 6, fire-ships 5 iale'of Or- 'fetich igfehe-l if fiHtigthi r ^ch oth^fj ed With sai' ^f the fi e th6 Yi6i '•fi»*:»T«iAN TOUH, "*" '0 the greatest in ,k " ^"'«"'^« »nd pice, aroun/ie, f"^" '''^ '«"'''' 'l'i.e preci. "»e to the heirtt o- r^. " '^'"''"i^^ble to»e The We of the S "' ^""'^"^ ""'' «% ^11' ""« cove, and the^'re^rL T"'^-'""^ ''^'' «"» •covered onl^ k„ec deep ^ir"'" "'^ '^"°'» 'tending river. General W . r'*' "'' ""« -le- •"oubt which the vZ2\Z " "^'■^'"P "•« '«• f«:e water, tmnap^rt ^ .' ""^ '•■* ^«« fention of taking itZl ^P" *'"" »" in- '^ommorenci/lJ or '^7""^ '"'^ °^ «"« "OSS the ford ami .«„ * grenadiers to '"«ead of for'ni ^IraTon'''^ ''"*^''- «"' "owly onward. sLaiL"^ ^ ""^''^ "npe«- «emy:'s entrenchn, nt"" n l^T' '"' '""^ '"e. Ihe remaining troops ;„"et *" '"e hill. However, on account ofT? '" ^'^ °'der, f ""y roclcs in landi^l /!? '""""^ «>«*» '".rd. *«« '''« expected aTdTht^r^'^''^'^ '»°»e' ;» **-<'ve. a retit tiet *'^'""'"« '" "«- '70' a great numfTrTs^'*'*'"^'''"*^ ">«■ I'alunble officers. ***'**"^* «»«» several r-/ 1 I *■■ 1 f '■if !:f !, i i h II'" { If < 1' 180 PEDESTRIAN TOVR. i V. •i 1. ■ i! I. r 1 ; '^ ■: r 1^ r-' V ' ,4 sistance of wealth or of friends, to the important command which he now held. The enterprise was of the most hazardous nature ; and many generals situated as he was, encircled by high rocks and mountains, beset by the Indians who seized every opportunity for plunder and blood- shed, assaulted by floating batteries, fireships, and the shells from the enemy's entrenchments, and deputed to storm a fortress long deemed impregnable, would have been discouraged and probably have desisted altogether from the at- tempt. With so little chance of success, he was determined to endeavour the utmost, and accord- ing to the universal opinion of his officers in a council of war, though he himself thought their advice rather too adventursome, he resolved to gain the heights of Abraham and bring on a general engagement. The French had stationed sentinels along all the tops of the bank and at the edge of the river. The fleet sailed up the St. Lawrence, above Quebec, and in the dead of night the transports were allowed to float with the trbops down the current, as far as Wolfe's cove where they were to ascend the heights. At first they mistook the landing place in the dark, and a French sentinel hearing them, came very near descovering the whole plot. He inquired what boats they were ; and was immediately answered by one of the captains, who fortunately talked good French, that they were bateaux of provisions from Lake St. #»' L e important 2 enterprise and many led by high Indians who ' and blood- (, fireships, enchments, )ng deemed u raged and om the at- ess, he was md accord- Hficers in a >ught their resolved to bring on a Wit' s along all f the river, ice, above transports ) down the they were listook the ^h sentinel leering the hey were ; ne of the rench, that Lake St. "aiiKs above WrtJfia'o ?«»««> than any wheZ.u '''""""* ^^ Preci- --.jjic*. though ;i rc;^ "-* ^ «? ^«^««to„^„t„^- ^J^wed to enabled the'. 6CU oy Colonel Bot^J^ , ^ ®®» ^ce di«. Hear «,» . aware. Ti,,. „. ^ them -'«»Mhe troops ascended andl ^^^^ ^>»S Ao soon a, ,be FreZ, ""^ "" ""e ton »''<^e^stood that thel^ f.^"^ de MontcaS J-'ghts of Ah^tham S"^ '■••' 8*«ed Z deemed inaccessibte he J'f,''*' '«'<' confideBwl 'Ofce from R„ ' S:ot together I.:. . ^ on the ^^- ^^"Po« and his -^f ''''°'e ''^-^S^t 1;^'--^ s-rttr '^ *ix thousand, an^ between /Jva , j soldiers T^K ^ consisted of h« ^ ^"*^ uiers. The chame com^ ^'*'^>' veteran trench general «.«« ""^*ng that i^ar Tk - / ^ *"C Wrist rr^ IQ ;'«• He con- i. I ■ ' r ■\ I i !■ 18-2 N PEDESTRIAN TOVR. tinued giving orders and advanced at the head of the grenadiers with their bayonets fixed, when another ball more fatal pierced his breast. He leaned on the shoulder of a soldier and fainted. Hearing a voice cry, " They run !" he revived for a moment and asking who ran, was informed the French. Unable to gaze any longer, he sunk on the soldier's breast, and uttered with his last breath, " I die happy." A stone records the place where he died. No monument is erected to his memory: for his glory needs no such trophy. The rising towers of Quebec are his monument, and whoever views them must think of Wolfe the conquerer of Canada,* . .*!' f n ai A stj re* thii of t/)ai and is n whei timb entir l^poi teries erecte Soon after my arrival in Quebec, an Ameri- can, a stranger like myself, accompanied me on an excursion to the plains of Abraham. It is laid out in com fields, and belongs in part to private persons, and in part to the prerogatives of thel defern governor. Upon the latter portion we saw wholel thai a broadi -They have MVn Each in his field of glory ; one in ams, And one in council. Wolfe upon tl lap Of smiling victory that moment won. -Wolfe wherever he fought Mii \ « 3' v/^ifT-^ Put 80 much of his heart into his act, That his example had a magnet's force And all where swift to follow whom all loved. B ^^^' ^u\ ti '; ■• ■ '-v Cowpiii. Wolfe, to thee a streaming flood of woe, / ' in ' Sighing we pay, and think e*en conquest dear i Quebec in vain shall teach our breast to glow, Whilst thy sad fiite extorts the heart wrung tear. Goldsmith french wood jn of the e ^>ii he y landexcj «coundr, '>oot thi ey pasi 38 nionj to J t the head of fixed, when breast. He and fainted, he revived as informed ;r, he sunk with his last ds the place rected to his uch trophy, monument, ik of Wolfe » an Ameri- anied me on n. It is laid •t to private itives of the e saw whole] •d. detrv ow, ng (ear. OLDSMITH platoons of soldier ». ' ^^ potion of ehegroufd'^'''**^- '^''^ "-o" lev"! '" or three bit. «ected. fortbe p^Jl T""* '*»'«« have bSa Jfendi„gtt,/„7^-°f;«^pi„gthep,ain.a„l' hd«cIt!L''^"='^P'etel/tirL h '•""•'« I " wciaimed, «n_i ,„, , f, "^™, he sat down hundrel. : r), ha^' ^, ^^^ «'. «.e rina^at" t'^'em." TheoC:lrff'«»dna-fa;: N passed by, •• had ^raT,??!""^^ *•'«»«« M^'novaslha'eenkaliy 1'?"'' ^e cried. ^ *» kalUa to I5gh l^/"^- 'here wad be ^ *' ""'«• Fi% heads I lif i ^■. ' 1 yi ^\ ...J -J 184 PEDESTRIAN TOUft. were found upon the field, most of which were suppoiied to have been severed by his hand. After procuring sonae bullets and crystals of quartz, usually called diamonds, which are ploughed up in the field, we returned. Wolfe's stone remains greatly hacked, at the corner of a wheat field near the race course : yet it is said that the real stone upon which he died, was taken away, and was selling in the city at so much for each small piece : and I saw a publication which stated, that travellers might be supplied with pieces of the stone, by applying to someplace in the upper town which I dp not remember. During my stay at Queb.ec, I was made acquain- ted with Colonel M— , of Lake Champlain, who had beeii an OlScer in the revolutionary war, and who, by his frequent visits to this place, was able to give me much satisfactory informa- tion. With this gentleman's assistance I obtained admittance into Castle Lewis, the residence of the governor in chief, the barracks, formerly, a Jesuits* college, the seminary of the priests, and the Bishop's palace, which is appropiated as parliament house of Lower Canada. The earl Dalhousie, present governor of Canada was absent I at Montreal. The castle or chateau projects I plain, beyond the top of the precipice, and has stone I within piers to support it from the side of the slopinglThe goi rock. Its interior decorations are superb. Weltion hoii cannot enter the apartments, without remcmber'l balls, a ing the late unfortunate duke of Richmond, tiielterminat former governor, who received his death fronlaQ anciei i^ the bite of . «■ *^ »on. mounted and ready to Jrf K'^'' "^ ^o- ""rhowile ve«el uptL S^, '*"''P''*'««<»f "••^ other garden. furtheV ftl ITT"*- "^^ere 'Oct. belonging toThe J? ""^ ^""^ »f ""e -^ office«!arLL „ R^ "s! V"'*'"-'^ As the moon «k« ^ a-ouis. ^'ookgreaTS; r :S''"«''t in 'heevening,. «»« » "'e reflected from the ml. ^* '"^^ "'' *« moon *<=-" »nd the sh"iT •^'•^'•'o^'helower "•"I" there is ju t "It 1?^ "^ ">« ^^hurches. "'"'els in theharbouf a„H?r"' '" """'^ *e .«"«• their mortars and their '"•''''^'" '°'-«" 'ng more formidable than. u""" ■"*"* "PPear- "■« ""oughts, arresfei aJ„T"'r"^''"''e'-m; »°"nd3 of martial must '^7'* ''J' ">« distant ..c.„„.u. various instruments of I'h ''"■«*"'"' »' *e opiated atlwedisposedtosoa-.k "P'"''*'' at hand The ear. I ,he rei„s X ^^T' '"''^''"'^ry Jatt' .wasabsenll The ran.parts of tT' ^°^ '""' ""« happv u projecflplain. aJd aV'^J eS"'^:'"'^'' ^»-''e Ihasstonelw.thin is covered »^? ""'"'• The slooe ^e slopmJTbego^eoflS^^XnT "" "'"''" '-^ ?erb. Wei , on houses and incr^t? I '"^"^'^ '""^ am-ni- r^fX""; '•"" oanlo'^'tT"""""'^'"'^"^. hmond,HK!lte,mmatesthew«ii,„ ^' ""« Potasse, which death i^oX. ancient bui^lthrS ?-'-' n-.t I 1(^* *'^^'** convent i ■{! lit! 1 i r i: : ^ [;;rii: f i 1 ! ' 1' ■• ■ 1! ' ■ ( f\ ■,, ■ ? i i',* |!;' r^ 186 PBDESTRlAJr TOVn. under the French, and which has shared the fate of some other religious edifices, in becoming a military school and barracks. The most curious piece of military architecture I observed, was St. John's gate, which is so concealed by the out- works, that a number of turns are to be made in approaching it, and at the end of each turn, are carronades and formidable rows of loop holes, which forbid an enemy the least hope of access. St. Lewis gate is somewhat similar. The ram- parts are not solid, but contain stove-rooms and "secret cells and passages, of which little is known." Every thing is in the neatest order. The greatest strictness and secrecy is observed among the soldiery. They are always upon the alert to detect the slightest tresspass, and stand with their shouldered muskets at almost every comer. I chanced to take a plan of Quebec out of my pocket, whilst walking on the rampart, which Colonel M — bade me instantly to return, as the sight of even that piece of paper, seen by one of the guards, might cause us to be suspect* ed, and perhaps apprehended ! • *- - - f * Repairs and additions are continually making] on various parts of the fortifications. The chiefl design of strengthening this place is to prevent its| (ailing into the hands of Americans, in case another rupture with Great Britain ; and on thatl account they are very cautious how they admilj people, especially from the United States, amoo^ their works. The Citadel which is thestrongc and jnost elevated part, lias been till iatel;| 5*T red the fate becoming a lost curious 7ed, was St >y the out* be made in h turn, are loop holes, i of access. The ram- -rooms and ich little IS satest order, is observed ys upon the » and stand [most every Quebec out he rampart, y to return, jr, seett by be suspect- F£ilJB«TRUK TOVJR. la? «-d vaults of a m Je "Itl ?!","« ""*««'•»*» admittance, and vie^ il:?^ ^"^ '^r gain ftbe Comn.i«ary Ge^S '.' '""'""«' « Pa» ««1 for four hou« ^rJ' "" ""^'''«''lrg«ti. ^et.inexan.inin.'u.t^eHoranr' "^ ** me subterraneous passa.,.. . j j "^ viewing -« •' length laid ojl^^ T r?''""'' '^'''«* """•W- A gentle„,a7i''^^''e'';»»" y°">« gentleman a tvo.T'^""''*'- ^ ^e informed, was 22^7 *"T'^'^' ''^ ^^ sates, for penciling ZfL "^'^ o"' of the -''-h theguardsj^j'";; "^- a P-- of paper. ''« hafld and ton, tof™™!'? ' '"'"^^d from »«er a syllable. A^er T'^"'"'''* «>"W X, 188 PEDESTRIAN TOUR* i !l: ii !*i V: Measurer, with all its mystical geometrical angles, elevations, and paralielopipids. The public as well as the private buildings of Quebec, possess a substantial appearance. They are of a bluish coloured lime and slate stone, obtained from the rock upon which they stand, and which is continually blasted away for the purpose of building. The diamond rock which is crowned by the citadel, consists of contorted strata of slate and limestone with veins of a whitish calcareous spar, and cracks filled in with minute crystals of quartz. The face of diamond rock is very ragged, so that an unfortunate cow, which strayed too near the edge and slipped, as I chanced to be passing under it, came to the bottom, mangled in a most distressing manner. The convent of the Urselines, the Hotel Dieu, the Court-house and prison, have very gloomy looks. I did not care to visit either of them. Not above a week previous, a wretched criminal was hung in front of the Court-house, for murdering a man in a fit of frenzy. As I walked one day through an unfrequented street, by the grated windows of the prison, I was attracted by a little red bag, lowered from a grate in one of the upper stories, which as it descended, was accompanied by the words, " Pour Tamour de Dieu, donnez au prisonnier malheureux un sou. Monsieur!'* Dropping in what was requested, I mounted a little eminence on the opposite side of the way, and perceived through the iron bars, a poor half-starved Cana- :eometrical uiidingg of lice. They slate stoue, they stand, ^ay for the 'ock which r contorted veins of a Ued in with >f diamond inate cow, slipped, as ime to the \g manner, iie Hotel have very : either of wretched »urt-house, izy. As I ted street, 3n, I was ed from a lich as it le words, prisonnier 'opping in eminence perceived ^ed Cana- PfiDESTKlAN TOUR. ^^^ ^'an in his greatcoat and scarlet n.r. ^"«'iy pulling up the hJ I *P' ^^''y thanks by a varietv nf ^' """^ expressing his expressions. ! ^ "^ ^"'"^^^ -"^ energetic 'Alts OP MONTMOREJfCI. ' «'culatiDgi„ereat'L„f""^'^P°rt, with money into it evefy dav V. ^•''"'' """'g««">ro„gi4 the fells of Mon !," '^^^ '^^'' "" ^cureion to *e gentlemen wh„"LTb:r' ''°""^'' '» '^"-h "orthern climate wMi^'r^./! ""'"'•*' '» ""i. '•"tensely cold ire^"^ ^. "^ """* '» rr}; tii ii>a: Crossing over a toll-bridge above the falls, we had the curiosity to creep under the banks, which rise sixty feet on each side, to the verge of the precipice, in order iirst to survey the immense abyss into which the river dashes. The rains had swollen the current of Montmorenci to a great height ; the clay and impurities of the soil being washed down the banks, imparted a deep crim- son tinge to the water, which, breaking into foam against the jocks, presented very pleasing ap- j niF ads thus at- to Montmo* ed street of rranged ex- n the upper ^e village of height upon irds the St. any part of the course 9. it affability hose dwell- lile to peep, neat and celebrated n overcast, oall round ceased in a day, with blow, was le falls, we nks, which ?rge of the i immense i rains had to a great soil being leep crim- into foam casing ap-^ "»«THM„ ,,,,„„ 1. pearances. jn tu^ , . ^^^ Pic^ 'ond ju,t „bove the precj. We descended the hi„i, ^ '"-'r St. Lawrence Jf T^ "''P »«»"' of the -'"■ngon the beacS ^^^ °'«'-'-- > -nd or cove, which the M-, ? ^* P"'"' of the ^.ilf ■^"ng. foaming from it, '.!'"""• ''"shin,, 'he level where "^^^^''^'^^ height down to »orenci exceed m'^,^ T'l f«"« of M^t^ f«et.andarethehighS^ /^ ^^ one hundred --fe/ough faf':? "he °e A-enca. Fal^ '"a straight line from J^^^ "P"^^' "-^ich runs f>«l furiously hoi r f * '° *'^« of the cove f«^n> "•whole confused .^^ •"" '"'^'-eai sprav ^f -th rolling voltetfl -" ""' *"« "3 ct ri?' of the cliffs :: teTl' ^^^ "P"" carries a small portion If lu '* "" «q«educt mountain, to the wZsV' '''""^ »'ong "he »' f-w/ng timbernS.: 2'^« -'ablishLn Oreak into the bank aniv! •"■*' of the roct 2"«d„ct. great forest tree^T' J^'^*'^' ««"' "-e °f«"egulf. appearin^f^rK f"""^ ""' *e verge -•*J.le„t wonder fo^^f^ 'i^. """'n^ scene endeavoured to advance IT T'"^' """^ then 'femendous cataract '*' ""^ '""o' of thi^ I I. r y' : )l I t 1 f ! «v 1J)2 PEHMtRTAN tf>rR. The composition of the rocks around the place where we stood, is a stratified fetid limestone, operated upon by the weather in such a manner, as to crumble into fine scales and dust, which slide continually down, and assume (with the ex- ception of colour which is black) the appearance of soft sandy banks. The wind blew llercely against the crumbled sides of the hills, and carried showers of dust and large pieces of the stone with great velocity directly into our faces. Providing ourselves in the best manner possible against this inconvenience, we rusheii forward to a great black rock, which hides behind it part of the bottom of the falls, and forms the point of what may be called the inner cove. Spray hovers over this rock, and pours constant rains upon its glistening, yet rugged top. The sun was behind us. Our eyes were almost blinded with the bril- liant and transparent rainbows; which were com- plete circles, ourselves the centre, increasing or diminishing in diameter, according to our dis- tance from objects in front. Ascenf which my m the shouU ;h originally through nar- from sight, he heights of late in the , walking to iciBity ; and i i * 1'* Li i 'ikll '•'« of which no h,n '""'^«' not far a.., »oo« to th^ "'"*«'• ""e rays of rK"* ' ""«» Canadians ! '"^ °^ «"«»*/ tL"^'" '""" hour blT ''""'">' P'oughK ,T^ °' ^""d ^i-i^l^-fi ' ?l*s^Vi ftmti^i* *•'■ "»e Unit J%, ^''^'^ * P'ace. whirh " the Da.c **'*'^« <=an WeJ ? "» ctizen - «f frej^ot an? *«">« "nSed t^T" "Pon conquest r T^ '"'^^y hoWi '^''- sudden an,> "'"ost consf«, '^"eoec were j^pp-xsr:;::' ^» ^-SZT '^ «■« Hd. in order to f ** "^«' St. uZ "^^ ""« "human Foice n ! '""''''•ed mil«' \^'^ Nnded. andthel ''*" *« "aJe ^aw'"'*'' ."^ P»»the«.;S "T «"" fero^ous w f"' h '•"'•'•'■hie sZr,y^ '^'' Pa«C th *" M thp ♦!.■ r*'^ ""ountains th. .' ""^er the *'"•"* hrush and ir^e^^fjhe rive« , ! ^« "» dangerous ;i n 196 PEDESTRIAK TOUR. ft J i \U 1 >. V « ! ' 1 . I ; raTines and dismal diasnm, irbich this adVen* turous band, in a manner unexampled in history, daringly penetrated. Montgomery soon after approached, and Quebec was fbrmaUj invested' " jn \i'iiti^->' ^\.--":\-: It has been asserted that the A merican forces in this expedition, were too insigniiicant to have attempted the reduction of a place of such strength : but it is to be recollected that Canada had been conquered but sixteen years by the British; that the Canadians were not quite reconciled to the manners and government of tfieir new masters ; and that some of tile causes which incited the southern districts of America to rise in arms, also created considerable uneasi- ness and disaffection among the inhabitants of this country, who were expected to^ revolt in great numbers, as soon as an American army th to Po co] ice the only that enter i should appear within their borders : besides I Jegg Quebec was at this time deficient in stores, and! come on account of the small number of sofdrers in the! ^g ^ garrison, even sailors were brought from the|]y|Qjj^ vessels in the harbour, and stationed at ^i'liritienf 5**"8- Itered h The panic-struck citizens, who were beforefjo^g- ^ contending in favour of the Am ericans, now raJof ^,„ to the walls, and volunteered in the general tleft oivard fence of the city. In the dead of night on thljQ^, . last day of December, when most of the worhln^j g-. besides were joyfully carousing, an attack fnmg * Utie Americans, although too. well known beforije oq- hand, was plainly signified by the appearance fiatcb HJ: i this adVen* xampled in tgomery soon wvLB fbrma% '»MT«r^^ ,o„. !Tican forces Scant to have iace of stich L that Canada rears by the i not quite vemment of »f tile causes of America rable uneast- habitants of ta revolt in ^rican armj srs : besides n stores, and »!drers in the it from the, oed at their wei'e befon ans, now rai ^ general di night on th( )f the worf attack f] own befon »pearance ^ the besie-" 7 ''^"^ ^l' of s„o» I ' «>« second barrier .^T' '=»"'«' a battel! ! ^ound ■ ,„j Z- • ^^^n he rec.p;„«j "-"ery and Meanwhile Tr^'^^^'r "'"»''««. "'' "•e head of h';!!""" Montgomery „,,, , , ">-^ banks of the sf?' """-"^^'h^hT^re'' '' P""-'* part of he f.: ^'""■*"'^«' to-ards^a?""" "'a„?r'-XX\nV-^^^-^^^^^^ -«e jaater of the^:^^*'' ^t "'! "-ardstrht foCsTiT ""■" """""'-d on the fl '"'"^ P'^"^*' k u I '» h ' ^.'i i «. 1 i 1 ws PED£9TIl£Alf TOTTB. non, and— in a moment, the brave Mont^mery, and eighteen of his dauntless men were no more— 'i'i: .^?«a*j.f^'"i ".suf^ Colonel M— — owho bad examined the bouse from which general Montgomeiy was killed, two or three years after the disaster, cond^ted me to the place and pointed out the precise groond where it happened : which, together with the cir- eumstances of the occurrence itself, is. in Quebec nearly obliterated. This gentleman informed me, that he saw at that time but two or three houses farther than the King's yard in the lower town ; that the street extending nearly a mile to- wards Wolfe's cove, has been formed by cutting away the solid rock, and making an area, then a dillrcult foot path, wide enough for a row of houses ; and that the building in which the guards were stationed, is the one now in ruins situated a few rods beyond a naval store of five hundred pieces of cannon, deposited in a recess of the precipice. -.^^*^v. v. ^. General Montgomery*! remains was buried in Canada with the honours of war. And not long ago (July 8th 1817) his relics werCi brought to the city of Ner* -York, and with a parade and splendour seldom equalled, werej entombed in the front of St Paul's Church. The inhabitants of Quebec appear to take con* iidertbie interest in the transactions of the States; and although they keep a suspicious eye upot their American visitors, yet they are friendl] affable, and hospitable. Their.public advertii mentsand newspapers, as in Montreal, are printt L of so tfa( tid cla sho and »Kac tnou estal with capa< In «elle ( and n canoe, veiocif the ^ shore, she puj and alt ^%tfie ntgotnery, i. were no the house killed, two icted me to ise groond ^ith the cif- in Quebec I informed or three a the lower a mile to- by cutting irea, then a r a row of 1 the guards ns situated ve hundred cess of the ^as buried «rar. And relics were ind with a ailed, were| Church, o take con< fthe States i eye upoi re friendl; ; advertii are printi Eng^-sh 'nhaWtanhJ^f' »'' r ^^ Scotch S ^ Saturday saij;., - ^^ cJa«,!^'r' «"» for the s..^.?'^- The irith . ,.™*'"f. and contiDi.-.« * lumber '"">aJ,neof,Ji.bBjUh„""'^« near the water ^^ neatly attired, se^'"''*^-^ '""^ beautiAU ^inoe, and at my , ' !!' ™ f*"* Paddles of thi snore. Wh.i.. , v oanfes of n^ ' ° she n.,^ y '" ^ »cramWed u„ Tk *''*P'»'te ■^"^ *«er.««^, 'ively L"^ '*""'' "^rik- ^ «»'«y m her Mti^^ I ^1 ^< ftfef;^'^ II -i 200 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. language: the melodious strains of her vo ice floated soft over the water ; she appeared like the gay genius of the stream, thus sporting amidst majestic clifl's and hidden dells: the sweei melody of her voice at length died away in the distance, and an interposing crag took the gliding naiad out of my view. Three miles farther, breaking through the woods and fording a small creek first was, seen white clouds of mist that ascended and evaporated above the trees, accompanied with a loud noise like distant thunder ; and next the broad river falling in tumultuous confusion down a precipice of one hundred and thirty-five feet : a triformed cataract, branching like the necks of triple-headed Cerberus, and mixing their dark stained waters together in one broken agitated pool. This though not the grandest, is one of the most beautiful cataracts in the world. The stream of Montmorenci is but a rivulet com- pared with the Chaudiere, and notwithstanding its surprising height, does not strike the beholder with half the astonishment, nor afford half the pleasure, which a prospect of these falls must create. At the place of descent, the river is about two hundred yards wide, and lower down it is broader, with rocks and angular points pro- jecting from either shore. The bed descends with numerous ledges running evenly across, and occasioning appearances of several water-falls in minature. A charming stillness reigns over all the surrounding hills and groves, which nature possesses uncontrolled and stiU preserved I I ^^C \er vo ice eared like sporting iells: the lied away : took the the woods jeen white ited above noise like )ad river down a ^e feet : a necks of their dark agitated 8 one of •Id. The I let com- istanding ; beholder half the alls must e river is wer down oints pro- descends :ross, and irater-falls iifi^ns over ^'S, which preserved 'I I i \l i ■ k m If! MOMTBIA, TOlr«. *^ *• fire and «eei of K ' "°^ 'ow^, and caat a rli.ii 7^ . ^'^ o*>ove and b*. """k*. Md the Jrli ^ '"''' '^auty of 1^' X** '^ opposite XT V ^J*,'^""".. I foJS £^f^ ««« ^cefuj £,;/P°^ ';''««. among ne larger varieties ,^r ' ""'•fi^* deji. * ^ ""fed (heroad,and«turn?.v*^ *** °"*' • ife.m ^ "**' ""or*. fi02 PEDCflTRIAir TOVK. J1 I- M ri: in^ towards Pointe Levi, entered again the frown- ing baiticnicnts of Quebec. In the afternuon I repaired to the great cathe- dral in the upper town, which has within, very superb gilt decorations and well executed pain- tinqs, but in general, the Catholic chapels of Lower Canada, after viewing their exterior, dis- appoint our expectations when we come to enter their doors. This has a lofty front, and is a venerable pile of buildings, adjoining the seminary of the priests and facing the public market place. The aisles were crowded, and the seats nearly filled ; presenting a mixed con- course of all nations and conditions, kneeling and crossing themselves upon the bare floor. The great altar was occupied by nearly two hundred priests, in their white robes and black cowls, whose voices, as they devoutly bowed and chanted, rose in one universal peal, echoing around the walls and arches, and (prejudice aside) inspiring the most unconcerned auditor with religion and pure devotion. Our Hotel in the Rue St. Jean, had a sociable assemblage during the evening of well informed gentlemen, with whom the hours might have been agreeably beguiled: but taking a candle, I left the company conversing, some of battles and! bloodshed, some of ships and shipwrecks, and some in lower voices, of governors and hydro- phobia, and proceeded to my apartment to prepare for the journey hence, into the states of| New-England. it * i' Ua II the frown- reat cathe- ithin, very ited pain- chapels of terior, dis- i come to >nt, and is >ining the the public vrded, and nixed con- , kneeling >are floor, learly two and black itly bowed il, echoing (prejudice ed auditor a sociable I informed light have I candle, I lattles and recks, and nd hydro- rtment to le states ofi .^l. . PDDESTRIAK TOUJI. 203 /■I: i •-■ i I CHAPTER viir. . /•°^«« CANADA. * f^i.^'^. *'>^--r ^' »■ *ti -t) ' ''^'""^•y CtetoW 15lh, 1821. ■ h .... f l'' :*fi*f I From the parish of St N.V.,., i> h^ *"''»h settle™ on.i, . " ""aly f becomes a rugged f^! ^ ""^'du Loup "d«e of mountain! to ifP*"^ °^« ">e gZ ;« 'he Kennebec ivt'f^'".^"'=«" "-'"enfente Relied, and is part „ " '"'• '' '' »«'C ; turnpike from Que Jto « ""'"""^ '^"^^ of /•"^d proposed enteriurtl^ !r°"°"- ^> ""« route "art^d aarl^. and „^.S"^"«f'«nd States. me of some of the ob8t,!i^ ' '^''o forewarned hl-an undertaki^g^afS "",' ""fi-^-'ties of N year. «' "' *'* ""clement season of . Ferried over ichisavi::^^ I ^''*'^' I proceeded over a ' .' j 1/ m > ( M t i'-ii' S. W \ If 1 11^ 904 PEDESTRIAN TOVSL. country at first hilly and cultivated, but after- wards one desert wilderness, until night ; when I was accommodated with the best a friendly cot- tage could afford. The wind blew fierce and cold ; rain and sleet continually poured ; at each step my feet sank deep in mire and water, and scarcely a house was seen in the whole distance. Perceiving my toil was about to overbalance my pleasure, I returned byway of the falls of Chau- diereand Pointe Levi, and re-entered the capital of Canada, on Tuesday evening. A disagreeable gloom hung around, and shrouded every object : the weather was an uninterrupted storm. Dis- gusted with this unfriendly climate, I engaged a passage in the steamboat Car-of-Commerce, and entering on board an hour past midnight, soon found our floating hotel stemming the current of Itbe jsij the great river St. Lawrence, ^'^z^** V Ispeciefl This vast river or straights, the St. Lawrence, lougcrej through which the accumulated waters of lakes lirhjjft ; Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, Ontario, and Itjoij^jj^ hundreds of smaller lakes are disgorged into Hie tog d^^ Gulf of St» Lawrence, and thence into the At-leaseJs n lantic ocean, may be considered one of thelTlie riy* most interesting rivers in the world. Its lengtblanks arc from the island of Anticosti, where it is sevenimetiteeg miles broftd, to its commencement at Kingsfe isnttstii ton, is seven hundred miles. But if the Straighto^tejYtd i of Niagara, of Detroit, of St. Chtir, (^St. MarieW^^^ and the largest river falling into Lake Supcriorppendici be included tls continuations of the St Lawrencel for xnai and the several lakes ts expansions of thestrea t h G( thi iiai hu] iVo f at a dusJi and advai and i and d selaoi , but after- ght ; when iendly cot- fierce and ^d ; at each water, and e distance. i)alance my s of Chau- the capital isagreeable ery object : torni. Dis- engaged a merce, and night, soon J current of Lawrence, ^rsof k^es ntario, and :ed intatlie ito the At «€ of the Its lengthj ''■en Its length »,ii 804 T^""''^- '"° *»'"'•<' five hundred mil»^ ''"^^« '*'>/«!» '""^ ^"^ ^-ntenng the Sf r ^* ^ grreat distant!' ^'^'^''ce, ^.e /irst n. ■ duskir k- , , *^"ce, on the n^h/ . Perceive uusKjr highJa„^ »,u- . ^^^"^ and Jeff Ko j sels of pf ?' "''^^ «ome of the hi .^'' "'""ns "^'■«> of ^Sir ''*"^'"'' "-« b^t V "'^ ketopouSL'^' "* «•«' fleets of '^P'"*^''- L pouring down from a, J 'Merchant fe i!!^- "^ Canadian. ! '"*"<'"' "uccoed r"»«ine ou,selv«^l? ' ** "•""erous tW tWtenidfo^n *?"**, encompassed bv « . *^ «^; ^ben they /: • i i 206 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. (i . i '-. ' i. " \f: .'■•: ) |! sink into low champaign borders, and the river begins to vary in its width extremely. Appearances would allow us to say, that Lake St. Peter, instead of its present dimensions, covered extensive tracts of prarie land as high as St. Regis,* and was confined on the northeast by the highlands above Quebec, through which its outlet has at length worn the deep channel of the river, and allowed the waters to be mostly drained. Such also are the appearances, as formerly intimated, at the Thousand islands, where the bed of the river becoming clearer, lowered the surface of lake Ontario. There is a circumstance attending the pass at Quebec, at which we have some reason to be sur- prised. The channel is only half a mile wide, and twenty fathoms deep ; and by calculation, less water flows through this, than flows through the mouths of not more than two or three large accessary streams above. Some ascribe this loss I their of water to evaporation, and others, both to eva-l fishini poration and to subterraneous passages andlFrencl caverns at the bottom of the lakes where theylagainsi are unfathomable, and through which the defi-lare sai ciency of fluid is supposed to find its exit. WheDlScotch we survey the river from the top of theDiamondltions i^ rock, the most ready impression we receive, omost ami obse«*ving the pass so contracted and the currenaand Jgj so slow, is that only half ^he stream meets t view, which an island separates, and which uni again somewhere beyond Pointe Levi* n te da pa 0X( up< 9pr( acre airy ! iay s amon ^gh tow * Or. Mitchell. ^f*ijii-t,." Ais.: nd the river • :> say, that : dimensions, id as high as tie northeast ough which p channel of > he mostly earances, as md islands, ling clearer, • g the pass at on to be sur- mile wide, calculation, ows through r three large ribe this loss both to eva- Eissages and where they icli the defi- exit. When heDiamoiii' i receive, oi I the currei n meets t\ which uni /^'«re 'hips and bZ'^f *"' "oats, and .nanl" ^ted fields and pJeasanf "' '*'«nds. cilfi. Mo 'r ^- »S 1;^"''^. see; t Above Montreal ^ ^'^'"ent. tensions where thechan?. •'"'*• *"• ""-oad ex <*"«"'& down ?he tr ""''"'"^'ed- Cdf; ^i^e upwards Xoul'"^ '^^'''' »' S 2"' bateaux are pS, J"""' "' "">-»!? "P*"" the smooth eZ ' ""*' «« ""ey entef 'Preadins th^.v ■ ^'"ensions. fhev »/ acro« fK • *^''» and « wm»; . "* ««en ■^egu/ar hoiwe. of Can../ ^° wo'e do tb^ -O' dwellings of aluS't '"^ ^'^-oho* S *" '^•^ Ontario 21 "^'"^ '"«"'« of ^-"Wewme wav w!^ **eaniboats twist th- "aj'- Without farn. , '*"neir « farther difficulty. I %i i' ^'C k! VI: , U' i h 111 208 PEDESTRIAN TOUH. we proceed upon a deep and very wide stream, to the first of the larger lakes. A voyage, in this manner, stopping at the places of note, will give the passenger a full know- ledge of Canada, which it might be asserted lies almost wholly upon the banks of the St. Lawrence. *' • i^ .. i. The French adventurers, who came to this country two hundred years ago, found it con- tenient to stretch themselves along the sides of this and the principal confluent streams, such as the St. Maurice, the Sorel, the Ottawa, the Chataugay, both because the land was gene- rally found to be most fertile near their margins, and the means of communication was known to be by far the easiest in canoes. Many of thefirst settlers were soldiers, and many people of good condition in France, to whom the grounds were parcelled in lots of four acres in front, and thir- ty or forty acres deep :* and this accounts for the regular line of houses, not only along the rivers but also along the public roads. We believe ourselves in one of the most populousi of th( countries imaginable, in either of these situ-l subsis; ations; whilst, not above half a mile back, wel its tnii will be enclosed by uncleared woodlands. ^«''» I baking Upon these narrow slips of land, which tJ their ta a certain depth are completely deprived of trees! so are t the Canadians are enabled, with the utmost inJ the nob dustry and economy to keep t^hemselves iliabourii ■m'u I bread ai « La Hoatau. land the h r< m cii wa wh par but ved T inaiz extre fruits Th ^ \!y\ fide stream. *'«B«T»MN TODB. I/I ping at the a full know- be asserted of the St. ame to this •und it con- the sides of earns, such he Ottawa, i was gene- sir margins, IS known to y of thefirst pie of good ounds were t, and thir- [^counts for y along the roads. We t populous these situ- e back, we mds. I, which t ed of treea utmost in- Dselves i «»tete of mediocrity u- ** r^ •» excellent, tl,at tlLJl*! "''"«««. (for the '"'' '^Pon the whole TK ,'"**" """> doubtfu X^ Preference ' '^"^''^ «>« 'atter d^ ^ 'Je country admits nr ^ - cmeiy scarce; whiVK \ ^'^ ^''ees are '-^Jhigh.a„da,^'irot" "'^ ""-" »^thr;:it''^'*-°'^^^^^^^^^ subsistence, ^^""""'y- Bread is thl ^"^^ stence. and every fam. i, "*"■ main «» minor building. conZ "*" "^ """exed bakmg. An apple .'^""^"""S a vast oven for '-"J .!««,, Bin '"a,""?™'!' *i.»r „p^ ;•<•: I !i i t'k k M f--" • i . h no PEDESTRIAN TOUR. and thin broth or milk, with evident satisfac- tion. Their dress is another great proof of their economy. Whilst, in the most interior parts of the United States, several hundred miles from any sea-port, the inhabitants, to our great shame and their own disadvantage, array themselves in the far brought cloths of England, the mus- lins of France, the linnens of Ireland, and the silks of India, these frugal people, situated so near to one of the largest sea-ports of America, where the finest cloths are furnished for nearly half the price they are sold for in the States, wear their own coarsely woven and sable coloured coats, and their own stripped homespun gowns ; knit their own woolen caps and hose, and manu* facture their own straw bonnets. In this ob- servation I allude to those only who possess the country parts and villages. They are less frugal in the towns in which British emigrants form a small share of the population, ^ The usual suit of the male peasantry is a pyra- midal cap pending to one ftide, a round jacket, long trowsers, and cowhide shoes : Hiat of the ladies, is a straw hat, differing in the dimen- sions of the brim according to the season, a short gown reaching below their waist, and a garment reaching to their feeit. On holidays, some alterations are made with some addition of fniery ; among which is the parti-coloured sash. . Idleness is a stranger among the Canadians* {iong before the dawn of day w^ will iind men it satisfac- »f of their or parts of niles from 'eat shame themselves ) the mus- J, and the situated so America, nearly half ates, wear i coloured un gowns ; md manu* n this ob» bK> possess y are leite emigrants is a pyra- md jacket, lat of the be * *e hberty to rJL! '^'"S »' hand I -f »t ".e peop,e^eaTi^T:'l''^«»»n'odatio„s 'at ; '«>«« house, and i Tr""' '»''^»." ^ »Pac.ou8 room, contain /'^^'''ed "«» a very from the centre of the ceH." '. "•« ""^ » wi,, "«»' to be lighted upon j! ^'. ""' " ^'"""e sto.^ kof the roon,.L?:;t;;l'"''''^''"P'«<'^' f *««ve8 of brown br^rl*'""^'' "Po"-". *^- Compc«u.* being S^!!'*"^ """tW ''^K'^ statjoa and ' n ; I 212 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. , i '•.•; !l t. fi; |- i i I 1 occupation : the old farmer and his wife with the younger daughters, to trimming several baskets full of leeks : one young woman in a shady corner, to knitting with great assiduity ; another to sew- ing; and two others, more advanced in years, were spinning flaxen thread. The men betook them- selves to smoking and to good humoured con- versation, in which they gave me some amusing accounts of an old avaricious farmer in their neighbourhood, whose barn floor had been broken up, and from a certain recess, dollar bills and cop- per half-pence had been ransacked. ^^ this time one of the sons and his wife, arrived through the storm, who complained bitterly of th^ high rate of ferriage they paid for crossing the Chaudtere in their way, arnd of the trouble with which it was accomplished at an hour so late, and the kind] people made no scruple of uttering ^sacri (an ex- pression of anger) in sympathy with the new-lthem comers, .fa lantut The matr9n lifted the steaming cauldron fromldisdai the stove about nine, and pouring the boilinggubjec broth into the dishes, the company, with hats anJare res caps at all times upon their heads, assembiefmind i round the table* I declined partaking; anJoftheir indeed, there seemed but a poor chance, wherlind hojt more than one person contested around a singlraffic dish. *eexce Supper over, they resumed their, several civnacqua ployn>ent8 which continued till eleven, whenls onjy k left most of them still remaining busy in tlfcat a h large room. Each inmate as he retired, devoutnembers is wife with veral baskets hady corner, •ther to sew- n years, were etook them- moured con- fine amusing ner in their been broken tills and cop- By this time 1 through the th^high rate le Chaudiere kneeled before a litf I • ' 813 another n^^cS • ^"®'r wort a , ^^^" *ey arose. The women 1 ''°„" "'*''• ''"^e, L "nd pleased with th Jf^^ ^ ""* *« oc^currenl .„d the kind! As.^T^'f '"du^ '" ^^"""-mn- ; the boiuXbJectionto'tli':^^^.-^ their'^pS ^.th hats ajare r^^j^^ „f The ht^" '"■'^*»- ThatSev » assembOnmd. „,igt„ ^ suppj^ f ^ qualifications of the •takmg; "4 f'heirbeingsitua^'^^'' '^« the circumsf«,i ou«las.nglraffic and other astjrar""'' ^'* *"«"« by , >««P«onofafeS°"*'«"dreta,^.«,2 several eJ,„acquainted ^rithX E„f,'".'^'*"^»«. ^nCly .ve„. ''••«4 only he«, ami there th^*'.*^ '"*"'*«• «n^2 busy m Aat a house c.„^ 1' 'l\*''« «"ntry ^1," I ^*"*>«'«"^r the place 2U PEDESTRIAN TOUR. irt V( i,> I l< of an interpreter. Inn-keepers themselves some- times, can but say, sit downsair; twentte cuopare monsieur ; "^ankec. BooRs have no place upon their shelves. Science, tfTstory, and the affairs of nations, are regarded with indifference. As to what some people term their superstition, so far as it does not retard the progress of learning, it is of the most praiseworthy nature. Often the Canadian whose vocation causes him to mix with people of other religions, will, in despite of the rebuffs and insults of the less polite and far less pious bystanders that are carousing about him, drop upon his knees at the stated hour, and repeat his adorations with real unaffected sincerity. In the aisles of the churches persons at all periods of the day, are bowing before the shrines, and raising their voices with holy reverence to the adorable Trinity. As in other Catholic countries, the cross, the crucifix, the virgin, and statues of saints, emblems of their worship and proper objects to remind the passenger of his faith, are exposed in all perspicuous places. It must be owned, I perceived very little notice taken of these exposed figures. Proceeding past a high wooden cross, planted in a solitary part of the road, elegantly painted { and having the representation of a ladder, a spear, I a reed and sponge, a crown of thorns, a hammer, a wine cup, a human hand, and other articles! appertaining to the crucifixion, all handsomely [ affixed, or swinging from the transverse beam, I •topped awhile, waiting for a passing Canadian inl ,'i- selves some- mtte cuopare place upon the affairs of ice. supersHtion, J of learning, . Often the i to mix with ipite of the ) and far less ; about him, r, and repeat ncerity. In lU periods of ,and raising :he adorable ;s, the cross, s of saints, ' objects to ) exposed in e owned, I ese exposed l^l^DESTR,^^ TOUH. >ss, planted tly painted ier, aspear, a hammer, ^er articles andsomel/ rse beam, I Canadian inl order to.ee what won WK . "^ 5'"™'?. and humminfl f "'f* "''"' ^is cart consecrated spot 3f '""*' ^^^ <^r^ed the object upon his left'! b"?V"*^ '"'»*'»'>at „o,ay • "ackward nod. touch!t 1°'T'"» ■»«. "e gS •n his way with » i '"* ^rehead and f ;^'ou. tenets, their ri^'d o,' '''■T'^'' '° "•«'> «- Jhich ,s not always eSr^'"'"' "^ «'o»on,y serve f« • *•" '■esemblancp »„ .^ ' "'"«'' l„„ *' '" "•""', some annl "npression. 'ower orders, such as 1 '^'^'^'"•« amone th^ ^- '««. Of their ZZJtsi:^''' '^"o '«*e J^a«. 'vho are adepts^*'? ''"^''^' '^'* 'ess dis- t ««e 3i(i rKDEBTRIAN TOVK. afTectionate both to their own people nnd tt) foreigners, who too frequently misinterpret their words and actions. Their politeness of demeanour is undisputed : yet the mere outward shows are oilen mistaken by them, for the genuine art of pleasing. The very meanest peasant will draw his bow, and conduct himself upon the parlour floor, with a grace equal to that of the best educated. Bon jour is the common salutation, and wherever two meet, whether acquaintances or strangers, their hands are respectfully applied to their hats or caps, and the friendly bonjour pleasingly uttered as they pass. This among themselves is some- times accompanied by a kiss, and I have had oc- casion more than once to smile at seeing the bristly mustachios of an old savage looking Frenchman, applied thus to the blooming lips of a delicate Canadian mademoiselle. By reason of the abundance and low price of wines and spirits, many otherwise excellent Canadians, are while under their influence, ill natured and hostile. Even in such a temper of, mind, they conduct themselves with a suavity of { manners, entirely different from the boisterous intoxication of their Anglo-neighbours. The glass circulates freely at their convivial meetings, and adds zest to the dancing, the songs, and music of violins, to which they are peculiarly! attached. There was a wedding in a respectable near the place where I stayed at Montreal, wbi< ump red, oftht moui The«< H^boJe atone to the The pear to ded int Pable >le nnd to rpret their ndisputed : I mistaken ting. The bow, and >or, with a ited. Bon lerever two igers, their eir hats or gly uttered » is some- ive had oc- seeing the re looking ning lips of m price of \ excellent luence, ill . temper of I suavity of I boisterous >urs. The il meetings, songs, andl peculiarljj ^va» kept un f ^' "ffBT: for the windo^, wt " '° ''°"=««' 'he "'ted frieml. were ZL °'^"' """^ "^e *». J"« 'adie.. i„ w^^; j^;^^'- parsing pop„,.^^ <'••««»«*, and the eentlmr f"*^ ««"'*>' head- «-he,.„oco„.pa^ S' ;"-•;; r-'h frock coau and "O'ce. in rotation. '"»'""nenu with their Great feasts and r^- ■ ■ " 'he first da, of M.y/ZX^V^"'' "*'" <"• Peasant, assemble near the k?" ""* ''"PPJ' '% most esteem, or then r "^'^^ "^ "^ man °' ■»■'*«». and ^ect t?'''"''^*«>compar -" colours, a loftvMl I" '"*'"'" '^^Sy- Re-nage receivXt'^S V ''^ """"S '"">«. whilst the TaTM ''"'"''"" '"tr^h. ""Phantl,. supported 'fK*':***"" '' """^l ti -d. blue. .nd,X^pt:!;ta''°"''':' "^ 'P'^-Oid »f'hecompass.nearthrmddr^'^*'°'''P<>««» ™0"nted by a bush of tK !"'"1."'^ ">ps sur- These poles may be oblerv w "' "^"'"^ '««• -hole country .'some thTnl Tl""' "^^ «'« ^' one end. and some planted i„t °'"^' """^ 'o^he pe«on's „,nk to whom th "'' '"""''^'''e The militia regulation?ofr ^ ""' ^""^^^ pear to fee well observed ru""" ^'"""'»' «P- • *fioucheUe. 19 !i'!. i. f I' f, 1 J ■ •I I I fi- ll '1 'II 318 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. In each division there are about one thousand mi- litia; and out of them all, a body of two thousand men who hare no families are chosen, denomi- nated the incorporated militia, are handsomely equipped by government, and kept in a state of discipline that warrants great reliance upon their exertions in the defence of the country. ^ *" It is doubtful whether the Canadians would not fight as resolutely for their present privileges and mild government, (if a certain idea could be exce))ted) as the Americans were formerly compelled to do, in resisting the oppressive edicts and aggravations of the very same rulers. Should we judge from their contented and unambitious modes of living, and the little concern they give themselves about their trans-Atlantic masters, we might conclude that they are as happy a peo- ple as any the earth contains. Allowed the full exercise of their religion, protected in the pos- session of their property and their rights, and re- quired to pay scarcely any tax, except the trifle given to the seigneurs, and the twenty-sixth part of the grain to their priests, which encourages agriculture rather than oppresses them, they seem neither to wish the power of altering their situa- tions, nor scarcely to desire the liberty of fram- ing their own laws and government. The con- quest of Canada by the United States, is a cir- cumstance not very desirable on our own part, nor is it so very readily to be accomplished. Experience has shown that the inhabitants would rather assemble under the banners of their old »"; V »and Rii- housand denomi- dsomely I state of )on their s would rivileges !a could formerly ve edicts . Should mbitious hey give masters, >y a peo- i the full the pos- I, and re- the trifle lixth part courages bey seem eir situa- of fram- rhe con- is a cir- wn pant, nplished. ;tts would their old ^^^ESTIIMN TOUR. -«««« TOUR ^onquerers, than uni,^ ' "* *f»'»"r reminded bv thl Z *' ""^ are con- "y babiiimentsof B^r !''"" ^"^'^ and d^ PeriZ I '""°»e *em to Wt r* "•"««»«»e <>'^-na«o„3„/r,,S.S™';f''<^a'^'^" * ne provinces of FTw. ^' "1!"' '« « ^-yj^ar:'""' ^"--'Canada « ^f «'eat Britain^ ^^', ^^'^"«« *» the trea,'' ' a country, where the t»\ ^ ^ '"aintained in ^oje of nations, that the wl^^^^^^^ ??^'P^e in the 's the wealth of fK^ health of theindiv ,i . tensive tru^ ! ^ ^O'nmunitv • ^Z ^^^^^^ "ive trade between th "^ * ^^^* as the ^v *ose of Great R ! ^ P^*^* of Can«^ loads of ®"*a"i and Ir«i \. ^'^^ a«d ^^n^r^r '''''^'' '"*o the hands 'r"^' """^^ <^««t to^neral income nr«r^ * ^'^ "nerchanf. *u and in fK. ^®^^''nnientm„«fK ^**'»e " "» this manner f h« ^ ^ *^ 'ncreaser» ^'lis country is th« T^^^a^as? If, \i ^ I] h' t 11 : ff i 220 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ^^ It 18 surprising what hosts of emigrants land every year at Quebec, and spread from that port over the broad territories of America. Ships proceed to Europe with their cargoes of lumber, pearl-ashes, dye-stuffs, furs, and -skins, and re- tu.n in ballast, but with decks swarming with the poorer, and indeed the most substantial classes of those kingdoms. They are seen as- cending in the steamboats, the wheels of which turn laboriously up the current, and the St Law- rence groans beneath the weight of accunftulated numbers. Then they are to be met with, walking in groups or riding like caravans, upon all the roads which diverge from Montreal, dther to Albany, or up the great Ottawa, or along the shores of Erie, and almost to the banks of the Mississippi river. -v'^,^^^-^ Two prominent objects of cotisideration in Canada, are the fur and timber trade. The timber trade is acknowledged by many, to be a detriment to the true interests of the country ; as the ablest men who might be advantageously engaged in tilling or clearing land, are employed part of the year upon rafts, and during the win- ter, are carousing upon the money which they can so quickly earn. If it is an injury to Canada, it must also since there are, or rather have been almost an equal number of Americans engi^ed, act as an injury io the greater prosperity of the Stateof .New- York; and ^erefore Uie late bill against American lumber, which has been pas- sed by ' their government, is not so great a cause I lik! ^57IT' rants land that port :a. Ships of lumber, i, and' re- ming with lubstantial I seen as- B of which B St Law- ::untulated [1, walking n all the efither to along the [iks of the oration in ide. The y, to be a country ; ntageously employed ; the win- bich they o Canada, have been » engaged, rity of the \ late l>ill been pas- iat a cause i • J he fur trade, wh.Vh ■ wiporated comMni« • "• ""S'os'ed by ,„ 2 V Fre„chre^"^-« 'ndiv.dua,„ IZ y> unlike the hauRht^L, '""''«-* '^^'nean. «;"'» the affections^ ftt^!""«^ «>' £nglish„en. *;•»«» Peneti^te tho.1 ,IT' *"•* ^^We;. .,"« Sreat I^kj^/^T^*^. extended o"ef *e nver St. Louis or mL "'""*'' '^^^'-ed by °n 'he Atlantic sirl- *»'««'ss.ppi, and excem.v. f;'«sh coion::s:''^CeW-^"--ss ^°«n,erce With the I„dr„!l'*^ *"* P«>fi««l.le *°on settled and forf, ' *^'* territories w*.- -<«. '•«" -ere f/Sr,-;ablished.t "S *« ™'»«fiatevicini fo?,^ ** '«««ve8. from '«««* the animals b^om *' ''"'^'"«"'« = till a^ peltry. They were snm T- ^^ ^<^''ect the ^y Frenchmen, .,1 ^2; "" ''^-'"Pani^ ;°»g voyages of fifteen „„„{• *«'»«eires. made ''- *o the husiness/aXilTr''""'^ *eir •"•"■•bm „,„,., "**'V Hot their for. »•*- "»pr«„, 1.**' *"•> '«•'* w,lf S? f «^ "»'•<• S..,.^ ft» ' V '■( SS2 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ■I I I i li: k \: I mer cirUized manners: this gftve rise to the Coureurs de bois, or voyageurs, who are at pre- sent BO instrumental in operating under the clerks and agents of the Northwest! Company, and by whose means those vast extents of country have been explored, which would otherwise have re- mained unknown. The plans and arrangements of the Hudson's Bay and the Northwest Com- panies have, through the ambition of Lord Selkirk, clashed with each other, and lives have been lost in many severe contests in remote quarters. The dif- ferences are now nearly adjusted. Mr. MacGil- livray,' who resides at Montreal, is the principal of the Northwest Company.* Another important species of trade exists in Canada, or more properly between that coun- try and the United States; and this is the contraband trade, in which the illicit actors enrich themselves in the face of the laws and constitution of both . Amongst other blessings enjoyed by Canadians, they are furnished as other subjects are, with certain goods at a very low rate, and like fellow subjects, are obliged to pay extraordinary prices for East India produce, which in the United States is comparatively cheap. Upon such an extent of border as exists upon the Canadian line, it would be impossible to * ** The NorthwestfCompany employs about 2000 vojageun. The rctuniB amount annually to about 106,000 beaver tkinii, 2100 bear skins, 5500 fox, 4600 otter, It^OOO mosquasb, 32,000 marten, 1800 minx, 6000 linx, 600 wolverine, 1600 fiiber, 100 rackoon, 3800 wolf, 700 elks, and 2000 deer skins. '' rifle to the are at pre- r the clerks ny, and by mntry have sehave re- rangements iwest Com- >rd Selkirk, been lost in s. Thedif. r. Mac Gil- e principal exists in hat coun« his is the icit actors laws and r blessings nished as at a very obliged to L produce, paratively ists upon ^ssible to "*'="«M»r row, .feep a strict ,ratcb„ ««3 **'e P'^eceedinff -mk * ^^ ®«PeciaJiv ^ ^ « the^r'p '"' ""^ nook oel!?'""'*^ L c* , .'"P'«'n. across fh» k *"* '•ead P St. John's. Herp ffc •'oimdarr. ,. &, h*ed their boaU^^'t '^'"'''' *»' *« ^^1 Pr^ kre secretjj. landS .i^'''^'*^''»S- The cbLt itrr *Vsi2sr *« "eip Oft:; ^""ff the night to the basfn rA'^*"^ '"«« tea was safely ,t ■I ? \- 234 PEBESTRIAN TOITR* t ' ' )■": 'i. Ml !,= S V I t i- r ll and a cargo of potatoes carefully strewed above them. The custom-house officers however, were upon the look out, and before they had rowed many miles, they were hailed from the shore, and an examination of their cargo demanded. Not dismayed with the demand, they continued forward with' the aid of the current, pursued on the banks by the angry questioners, till evening, when they ran the boat ashore, and quickly trans- ported the boxes to the solitary house of an old acquaintance. But the officers crossed the river, and instantly demanded admittance into the house. Whilst they were waiting for rein- forcements to stave the door; those within let the tea-boxes down through the floor, and escap- ing by the same apperture, conveyed them out of a broken cellar window, to the woods back of the hous^, whilst the officers overhead were dili- gently engaged in searching every room and closet, for smuggled articles. They departed, leaving a man to reconnoitre : but this person had certain reasons for looking another way, and appearing a little deaf, as noises accompa< nted by low voices sounded from the wood, and a boat T . heard to push from the shore. The{ smugglers . ached Montreal the next night, am dividing nemselves into parties, carried theii goods to 1 house in the centre of the town. Ai oneo*clcjk they were aroused by a loud uproai and looking out, found the house surrounded b] soldiers. Admittance was demanded instant); The master of the tea-chests, opened his window 5wed abore 8 however, e they had m the shore, demanded. ^ continued pursued on till evening, lickly trans- se of an oid crossed the ittance into ng for rein- >e within let , and escap- d them out )0d8 back of d were diii- room and y departed, ; this person lother way, I es accompa- e wood, and! shore. Thel :t night, an( carried theii ■i town. A( loud uproar rrounded hi ed instantly his windoi and the voice of a ^*^^ '"'« from the street. '"'''^'""'^^"^^ <>^icer saluted Officer. «Ah» Mp p ^nformed you have 'beeT'tr'' "^'^ ^^" ' ^ ^^ ^^«n upon a sweepi„r '7 '*^' '^^ »>"s,ne88 ^^nttoseewhatyouCbro L'"'"'' ^^"^-' I «^e you: but really as III' ' T '^J^^'^^d to f^«^^^ ^hat your SUSP don r '?^'^""^' ' -«" ^^««- My quiet as tsZllJ '"''^'"'^^ ^^^""d- ;"^ertainer. cannot be Tsturb' ^l' '''' '' -y ^;on at this hour. Ifyouhl ^^ ''^^^"^ intru- ''' <^«'i We at ei.h and ''r^ ''^" ^^'^ ^^^irin^ occasioned my visit 'ere'' ^:'''''- ^^^t has ^eofficersentthea^dJ " ' ?e«t attention was of . ' ^^^^^ ' ««d dili. Ki i 226 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ^•t tj ,:k\f. V M n if 'a *. JIs, i Mt ,^1 : iiu 1.^3: ill 'Ml f:: ' ■ f Hi.'. i, 3 V. uv AH CHAFfERIX. ^IjTV'ji' 'i. »-: t"^m0 ROUTE FROM QUEBEC TO BOSTON. ' ' r ; fU. Tf i /^?ti .' Wednesday Ocl'>ber 17th, 1821. *..^4 ^,H v Our vessel continued to advance speedily I tages, against the opposition both of wind and current. Ijojfu J] The dawn opened with a few scattered clouds, Igrassj' whose resplendant hues increased the loveliness |the eyt of a fair morning. The river banks, bespan-ping tii . gled with villages, chapels, and files of whitevoes a houses, reflected the sloping sunbeams inlns; an superior beauties, and served in part to dispeve wai the gloomy impressions the foregoing stornivoored had created. We met rafts of the largest size! i^assin slowly floating with their unwieldly weighp^ son down the stream, well furnished with cabinJ^t in t] flres, cooks, and crowds of men regularly splashf^bic st ing their oars in the water. Most of the rafi came are from the bay of Quinty, and are several inn m months in descending to Quebec. fi^adian . Two hours after midnight, we stopped at Wipented liam Henry. The fort was built in 1665. TPcifixes houses, which are spread over a sandy level, al^ instil numerous and uniform. There are two churchf^evotion and in one of them I saw^ in the momiDg,F>e dem< »EBE«TR,A^ TOUR. model of a shin r •»^« if ie wa,7chaT;eLr h'*' ''"•" ">« --'- S"--*' or Richelieu river « It. '"^ ""««'' ">« sccount of the ^^t "* """"f*. whirl. «„ ;'n!»., and rigged vLels of con^H "" "^ ^'""di. ,art to d.spA« wafted up and down TIT'' ''""^^^ !0,ng stonn*oored at the wharves. ^" '"^^^ "^ iyhg largest sizel i^assing in succ ildly weigl*.. someof the 0^1* ""!?"'"' "'""mall vill, with cabinAst in the countl ", M °' '^'"'='' are the i'" alarlysplasAhic style. wiS^a'l doTt,'^"'"'""'''^ bui/tt of tbe ra|c.„e in the eve^ ^tf 4' ''""^ 'P'- are sever* inn might be call J Antoine, wher* Jnadian^«4,,^,SXr=^kablygo;,,;-; pped at Wfnented with tinsel ,.n*''^'^curiouslv or n 1665. TJ-cifixe, ,nd ^^^''ZTT'""" "^ ^^^ dy level. J mstil i„ «, „»^; -J-h however, co^ *och»rch*evotio„. After bwt"™[ °'^'»ar, de„.ree ' ' 'norn.ng,pedemoi«,,ieg „f j^jJS ""* the candle, one I »e. as was custom- t' .'ll '•J -f ■ f 'll 1 1* I f^'1 hi 928 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ary peshaps, came in for the fine silver, or ai any rate, plated candlestick, which by the light of the nnoon, she at length found. Our north- ern fair sex, it must be asserted, notwithstan- ding their sweetness of demeanour, can pride themselves upon a very small share of feminine modesty. From St. Antoine, I passed through more small collections of stores and dwellings, to the foot of the high and rugged mountains of Boleil, which jut so suddenly above the level plains of these parts, and attract the notice of people at an extreme distance. After receding a little from the river, and crossing a rapid creek, I advanced within sight of the beautiful basin of Chambly ; a large cir* cular expansion of the Sorel, about two miles I over, and having its borders fmely cultivated and] decked with white farm-houses. Nearly oppo- site, stood the antique towers of the Fort or Cas- tle of Chambly, and adjacent the barracks and! the spire of the English church, in the village o( Chambly. On the left of the Fort, the water of Cham plain were dashing precipitately down the rocky c hannel, and furiously foaming when they disembouge, of a sudden mingle gentlj with the deep undisturbed waters of the basii The wild outline of Scotch Mountain, toward St. Johns, abruptly rose above the unvariegate woods of the baek-grounds. . •, p, tn.^^ The steamboat De-Salibury, which, comme^ ced this season running from Quebec to I il^ silver, or ai by the light Our north- notwithstan- r, can pride of feminine rough more lings, to the ins of Boleil, el plains of of people at e river, and [ within sight ; a large cir- it two miles ultivated and >Jearly oppo- I Fort or Cas- barracks and the village o ;, the wate ►itately dow aming wher lingle gentl of the basi tain, towar unvariegat ch commeq ebec to .15 '/ ^ m fr u I' I I. ir iM ■i ^' I i?^ V^ •«««>»« '"""on. A broad ar^rr ' '"' *^"''' "e« of °»e -de. was guarded byT""". P-'-"'"* o^ Jd me to enter and .ur^XTnt """ P^""''- m'ddle .. an uncovered re^ZT'"'' ^" »*« "-^ about tbirty.five feet 7m ''''' '^''^ ^a". ^ooms. ami windows, like Van '' '""' ^«""». I found the open area .7 *^' °^ build, ' raenU. which Cwl'"^'''* ""'diersX I" 1775 MontgoLeT; :' T" """"'r '.ashf^ l«Pid.nd„oisy torS r;''"'""«^'°*« to th« fc'" Mt totn o7 St T''^ "»* ■»P0rta« **e during the niij ?" '' /""' ^'mained j IfroB Lake Cba«pJr^„*;j;'"«' *''»' -««el. '«nd. .round it a^ a d2 "l'^r'^*«- The B^ead unproductive level. f 'f. »• i.,H f ;• I 1 ' J "I ^iti=* If. M I 111 k 230 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. Most of the business is carried on by Americans, who are as numerous here as French Cana- dians. Haifa mile farther, upon the bank, is an old earthen fort with a garrison, which like that of Chambly, has experienced the fate of being taken and retaken, by French, English and Americans. Acquainted with the remainder of the Sorel and the scenes of Lake Champlain, 1 concluded not to wait the two days previous to the departure of a boat for Burlington, and accordingly crossed about nine, to the opposite side of St. John's. Whilst in the middle of the stream, the Congress, which runs between this and Whitehall, swiftly and majestically approached, and I bade the ferryman to await her arrival. With the martial notes of a horn sounding among the woods, she came splashing forward, and displayed on her flying colours the well known stars and stripes. The sight was gratify- ing after so long a separation from the United States. - . _ • ■■ •• -ff Between the ferry and the village of Philips- burgh on Missisquoi or Michiscoui Bay, (23 miles) extends a horrid irremediable morass, and the road, although considerably travelled, is at this time of the year, the v^ry worst that can be conceived. At first, a few cottages line the sides; but through the remainder, only two or three hovels, for taverns, are to be found. Ad- vancing part of the way, and percieving myselfl sinking more and more at every step, withoutf the possibility qfvbiieaking throug^h the woods,! for' and ropi dree advj owrit one the o piteo towh gait of trayed spare i '^o crc *he sar ^ce, so :k ■ HI \merican», inch Cana- bank, is an ;h like thai e of being [iglish and mainder of Ghampjain, previous to ngton, and \ie opposite idle of the ;en this and pproached, her arrival. 1 sounding [ig forward, rs the well was gratify- the United of Philips- i Bay, (23 3le morass, travelled, is rst that can ;es line the only two or )und. Ad- ding myselfl ep, without the woods, f»:nESTRUK T0t7«. =»«J in danger of k • ^^ *-"ed backf a ol,' /"f„ ''-"ghted i„ the™. I ^•""S a canoe "^d ^ ' T'"" ""= design '„f r » "-e lake :' Z ^S''"^ '"'o the Z^ "^"'•kled cheeks were ZshJ ' r''^''''' ''hose ""•ough the mire, and LJ 1'""' ""^ ^^^ions ashamed of beine J^ ' ""^ """es, I ^.f '««'•. and again timed?"' '^ *« <"d genUe '«"' fo-ght under "he ^v"'"'^'-*''"'^ that he •j^volutionary war tht . '"' '^'»'«'s in the J«, "»«/« gri^^md ^r ?;; ^--dence was", ;'"" he had been s^tS f '" ^^'^"'''"'•fc.and ftrmontheottawa, wh "h b jr'"""- "Pon a 'eward of his former se„f ''"^'''^•' <>« the ^--7" "Pon the road S l",. "^^ ^'^''^-^ed • •'nd almost as slow as ft. ' '"" ^ ""uch caro Sorwire^whelw^emrt^r '^""-^S dred oxen for the mart JT °^ ^^^^ hu„. advancing, a gentJem! ^°"''«»'. «lo^Iv °"'»e'-ofthedro4 whot", '" "•=" »«'>«. The ?f "'■''" men, and ^asnfl^'''" '"' ''O'se o 'he opposite side. 6x2;^!,"^''''' ^""'^ealonl P'teous tone. "(Ct^^Zl ""'*"^ '»» ve^ '-^^•^ on his" lir 1: '!;^ -'-Se r: fPare little sorrow X' r""*^ P'«'n'/ he could s 232 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ,' ' ' If'.' s 2 , I' ^ Hi . I Ml I ■■* m , I: .«;, '■ifi 1 ■ m J" ; If' continued rains, destroyed it. The oxen sank to their middle. ..- :<^vHh^ The head of Missisquoi Bay, which is a bifur- cation of Lake Champlain, is a gravelly beach, to which the waves are always throwing up addi- tions and forming new lands. Over a small creek, which puts in at the head, is a ferry, and the ferry 'boat is a raft of timber, half as long as the stream is wide, which goes over with a shove : the chaise accordingly to law, is five sous for each person^ Philipsburgh contains about fifty German and American families. During Sun- day I stopped at this place, making in the mean time an excursion to some quarries of valuable black and clouded marbles in the vicinity. Within two miles, runs the imaginary line, which separates this country from the United States. '-•jy ■ t VERMONT. Jit , The sensations of that man are enviiibie, who I scene has long been a stranger from his home, and! Jife who at last beholds the blue hills of his native! every country, fast rising to his eager footsteps. Thisl eight is the case even when the language and mannerJ season of the people, with whom he has been associaJ There ting, are not very dissimilar from those he is aboulselves : to meet. How much more exquisite must bJhere, m his sensations, when he leaves behind him projects nation, entirely different from his own ; and of Iges an sudden, enters the fields, sees the attire, anlrast: b henni the delightful accents, to which his earihe respc 1^1 oxen sank ;h ig a bifur- lUy beach, to ing upaddi- ver a small a ferry, and IS long as the th a shove: five ^oz^for s about fifty during Sun- in the mean \ of valuable lie vicinity, iginary line, 1 the United 'MESTWAN roPR. -.--* nviable, who home, and of his native steps. This] and mannei )een associa- seheisaboul lite must ehind him nrn ; and of 3 attire, ai ich hisea J'ea« have alivays been .. ' "^ «°" onl^can have an i/ea JT'""'- ^'«" P«- ^^ a .vanderer from S^^ *'"' ^ '"'"^elf '"-"'al'r "Claimed" ker"„'^' ""' •"■« <"-»en . '^''^"anne^oftbecr;""*""-* ' '"congenial .ith those of Lr'' "■' "°* *" ''^^^e '» he reproached ' ^""^ri^ns. as to y«t. there is sonfetE J '1"'""''«' l*^ »"«« complacency, that ie°t "'"""« "" 'he^r gfad to escape out Ti^ """^ 'n American ; gh'r to his patriotic no 'f°^'r. *at adds Pteasure of his return Thl ""'* '"^""'"e* the ^f^re we have resell. ^''^ ^""trast is piai„ peasants: he^.piain":^^^"?'^. "■""""Lus' farmers-There ^^ ^"le "^ '"""'"'■^-'"'^'ng ^nd grinding economy, hir , '^""riou^nesf ff" -ous profusion-The?' :" '""""^''»<=« and »cene revolves from centuTv . ""'"o'onou. '■fe. busy movements D.K^ " ^^""">-- here «''ery New-year-nere'^t "l- «•*'•"*. '''■'"'''g"«h l^'Sht icy months of ;L! I."""* ^''«'»^ by ,;faso„s equally ballancX/ "^f f «' " """'^ of f here, habitations encfn. ^ "^ """^ warmth- Kes.andall their ^^1^ ""'"^ '"«»- ke. mansions. walls.gi!^ricol? " ""•* """""e: projects, rivalling ihST^T"'^'^' *"'' "'ghty ^ ,«« and nations. We mS^'""««»''gbteU [««« .-but these are facte Tl """"" ""^ ^on. Y ••e'Pective Merits offte co/n'r' '° *"'"'^""- 20 * ' Sd4 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ^i -> i^V ; ll)'M' m ir. it N'P \ ii * 1 1 the form of goyernnnent, which it is well known, must instil into every individual peculiar princi- ples of life and honour. .■ ? ^, nr ..-- !»>t* A boy accompanied me in the morning, to point out the present station of the boundary line. I ascended the first hill since leaving Quebec. The style of agriculture, already betokened a change of inhabitants. ** Here is the mark," said the boy, showing me a huge disjointed rock of lime- stone upon the right ; and I immediately sprang to the top, to take an elevated survey of Canada, and to welcome the joyful land of Yankies and of freedom. The air was bland : the landscape was bright and beautiful ; and nature herself smiled upon our happy country. It seemed as if clouds, cold and storms, had been left with Canada, whose horrible hemlock swamps spread in wide pros- pect to the north. I turned to the green and finely cultivated hills of Vermont, and saluting with a sort of extasy, the odoriferous breeze that gently wafted hither the fragrance of the south, hurried with bounding steps over hill and valley, towards the middle of the State. I traversed a variegated district, to the village of Swanton-falls, and pas- sed in the way, a spot remarkable for the sudden change of its geology: jutting into the lake was a promontory of lime-stone ; next were banks of sand sione ; and farther on, a stream was dashing over ledges of slate rock. Swanton-falls is j- norning, to indary line, luebec. The ed a change ," said the »ck of lime* tely sprang of Canada, ikies and of dscape was 'self smiled 18 if clouds, nada, whose wide pros- n and finely iting with a ! that gently ith, hurried ley, towards 1 variegated lis, and pas- * the sudden he lake was ;re banks of ivas dashing i-faiis is (rf{ 1 upon the precipice o igh a coUec tion of houses oc ^ ' ^^^ «'«a'- called here^'cal':^"'^''me„. or a. they tbe'r customary m^^"lf'^'"' ""o. retaining from their o.„ a„d other 1?"?' ""' ''°'ated «;arfare ^ith the VermoL '"' '"'^^ "P " Pettr *« village. whic„«,Sr:; " "* •'"''^^^"d of consequences. Abolt elr'"'""""' "'^"^'^^u. »" old Frenchman. returS T """'''''^^ ''-''ore. f ""»g with insulte both K ^ ""^ '"'« »' n->ht i«f;-a.„ec,.pe;ce- dhtr„?"?'^ ^-t ■ ^f' a sturdy American roLr r"^' "^"«e''ng come off victor No^ J . ' """^ ^''"s liket to c'-a-d .ith the fumro^s? ''^"^ '"-^"sed. and "'o ""e house, seted a I'T r"'"^"°'' *« ran contents i„ the body „? 7 "\""^ '•"'^ed the «an. Conscious o/h """^"""ate vou„" 'o the lake C.'iS'"^' "« «ed d^J ^«»ada. the re^rt,iTeZ"'T'^''°-^ -no Cheriot and the Tv^Jdlr t . ''^'"'* between P"«ued plunderer or •ttl''^' ""^^^eants aTd «-"ffle originated 7rol t ""^'^ ^''"«- The attacked the 8tn,„<,;; , " '^""""t dog wh cI •he Canadian's son, emertain" '" '^'"^ ^^P"'^? »en generally do, great aff"'."^' """^ count,.: J-.bly resented itftJaS °" ?' '^^ '--I ;"age. the you„g Amen>r" ^* ^ entered the 'ast. and the per^t ator '?" '"" '''*''*«? 4 , baen s^,^,,, ,„ V^^-- under^eood toU l«toW.ahmen,sof Mr. Hof LjJ^ '"''S- Garble I--- - i-rj-t^in«. « Ml- i*'ii I ♦ 5 1^ im 236 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. ;l- I If ■■ "f If ! J M:' il • ^ i- : entrusted me ; and continuing over a charming region, with the waters of Champlain on one hand, extending at intervals to the opposite mountains of New- York, and the vast peaks of the Green Mountains darting into the sky on the other, I passed through Georgia and Milton, to the township of Essex. The hills on every side become more irregular, and the transition gneiss and slate rocks, project from them in threatening cliffs: yet the declivities and bottoms, afford excellent farms and pastures. . • ^ .^>, Without proceeding to Burlington, I made a cross cut among narrow by-roads, to Water- berry on Onion River, and following the course of that meandering stream, entered the centre of the Green Mountains. Here is a scene, which alone might claim the visits of foreigners to these parts. The river flows through a gap between the mountains, where some violent convulsion has rent them asunder, and after dashing down ledges of rocks, rolls past our feet, black ^nd deep, and spreads away upon the left amongst islands and flowery meadows. Directly from the I y^f u opposite side of the confined torrent, abruptly I j^. rises, rough with blasted trees, contorted rain gul- 1 the ri leys, and exposed crags of glistening mica stone, I „^j.j. a lofty mountain, which we are obliged to leanl 5^^. - backwards to survey, and which has its toplyj^ . surmounted by one still grander, still more terJuinip rifle, that looses its proud summit in the cloudilj^ .. of the sky. This is the Camel's Rump : thJinten perpendicular height is four thousand feet :♦ J*l|iffk* * Captain Partridge. ] t h V fi wi thi wc bet she tair the sen< sidei the8< dusk tendc that< as if a charming lin on one le opposite st peaks of ; sky on the Milton, to I every side ition gneiss threatening )ms, afford ^^^^STRU^ To^^ ih' '■if; n, I made to Water- the course tie centre of rene, which lers to these ip between convulsion shing down black ^nd ih amongst kly from the t, abruptly ed rain gul mica stone, ged to lean iias its topi I more ter-i the clouds lUmp : the ^•on-cal peak looks g,ey with,. ^ •I'er hot the season' he^e ^ ""'''''''">■ ^oZ. h's seat for ever Th !'" '*''«er cli„„s I behind us for reJief r """ *° ^he /andscaoj -'; or flat j4":ih'hiroA^^"''^"' -ter! '"'figuresare seen. cleft h'\ ""* ""o" fanci. "^hose white or a u e ' '^^"'''""'"^^"•"•ned 'he.rplatformstbenow'^ ft'P'^^^ '^'''P'V upon -ooda." and upon Xse sfo? ""'"^ '^°'°''^«d hest catcle of America^L P'* ""*' '^vels, the ;heepareg,^„„g, l^^'^^ numerous flock. If 'a'neer with his axe l et J ^"■"°'" moun- "'^"'ft. or. as he '^alT"""^ ''«''«' «n,ong sending his voiceat W ^,"P' "P ""e sod i^ r- of the Sn^ef rI'" ""^ •"-"-ding ""^. and bounding the 1 **; ^^^^oPPing <«"% ridges of the ,«ft- '"'*S'"«^«t prospecf J»M and their tUtrcrr^f" ''-^- ««t cast a Jight tinge over thT'' ""''^ '"^^s. « >f the last feeble^Ls „; f f '^'^^ed scene y^l '"f '•«g«ponthrdti„:r"L'«.^''» -^^e In the evenino. r ""''"guished brows "arrowfi^^^^n the rocks through two M of mills and factorie? t ''^'"'* "'" " »"■«- 'herto Montpelier h • ' "^^^ »« miles far .-•de^tandinglT;**"^"'*'' «'»'- ut K the atmipherto , ^"^' "'"» ohserv- K»«e'r dark, r wen° """*"'*'^'' ^ough h<'^»''esta;,a:dV:he'^-;^''-'^''.tS ■ the Aurora Borealis, ,■* ,»'/ ( f f 238 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. »|J iir ti: ^ |i i. >! ; m: '•' 1 -■V..i •'■■t 1 1 which, like a moon ahout to rise, threw a broad unsteady zone across the northern horizon. The darkness and dead silence of the night was soon dispelled, as I entered the main street of splen- did Montpelier, whilst the air rang with halloos of boys sporting around the illuminated State- house. The streets were handsomely lighted, the shops were all in commotion, the hotels shone bright from their windows, and all had the semblance of the middle of a populous city. Montpelier, as I perceived next day, lies upon a pleasant bottom encompassed by mountains. The dwelling houses are not more than a hundred and fifty. Its State-house and church, has the steep side of a hill for the back ground, which blends the rural and the artificial in an agreea- ble manner. As the Legislature of the state were at this time convened, its four superl ho- tels were excessively crowded. The members were a correct specimen of the people they represented ; men of large limbs, tall, genteel, and notwithstanding some little peculiarity of dialect, which must be ascribed to their secluded situa- tion among the mount ains, very well versed in the I^^^Jse, art of oratory. From a venerable member, I p'^'iin^ learned that the bill respecting the judicial regu- l^^eise lations of their community, was under considera- ^^1" ' I tion, which, he guessed, would be passed by a '^^ ^^ large majority. ^^^ _ The country continues extremely irregular to the villages of Upper and Lower Barrel ; the one, with its meeting house and cupolas, seemingly the goo comfon ^or my >ld fan •ew a broad ►rizon. The \\t was soon ;et of splen- rith halloos lated State- ely lighted, the hotels I all had the •us city, y, lies upon mountains. 1 a hundred :h, has the und, which an agreea- " the state superl ho- e members eople they jenteel, and ^ of dialect, '"MT„,^^ ,„^^ perching upon the clifli. . ' ^^^ 'he glen belo»r %/'"'• '""^ *e other /„„„ • ""d pitches. sTl? '"' '^P^^'^-^ed on c.^ P^ture,^ Droves no oXtfl"' '""'''^ '" » 7'^-°:? tt\rr '"-- po"'nr::"i:f ^^rom Barrel to r% / "«s flat tumble towaM. n, ^^^s of the ' oi aiaiect, ■ In consequence of »i ided situa- l-'as under the necess.tv ^ ^"^^'''^y o'" mns T .sed in the ll-ouse. near the top o '^ °'''°PP'n? at a pri ' .emher. I a«a,„ed h, ^.nlslTtT"' -^'<=^lC licial regu- l^oelsea. The si>..o^- ^^"some mih^ r considfn.. COW: hut n,;^- -« ^'ea.. anTth Xm pgood people, servant, f ' *''°'"'d 'rhicb : ,11 M| ?! ■A '•) ." Iji i! k li' ill,, V ■ 240 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. earliest settlers of these parts, whicl* were, forty years ago, an entire wiidtrness ; and that a brother of his, had fought bravely at the battles of Chippewa, and Lundy*s Lane. Another uninicrrupted descent of six miles brought uie to Stafford, a fine village also embo- somed by mo ntains. A drove of one hundred and tvrenty cattle passed through, whilst I was taking break fiist. Around this place, I observed men splitting with iron wedges, detached masses of a fine white granite, and forming them into steps for doors, window-cills and other purposes, which they did with extraordinary skill and exactness. We bid farewell to the Green Mountains at Norwich: their obscure ridges lay behind us, whilst the valley of Connecticut river spreads before our eyes, in a luxuriant prospect, where I ^ert Hanover with its churches and ranges of coUe-l ^^^e gial buildings, adds an interest to the undulatoryl ^^^ii hills of New-Hampshire. Norwich may bep^arJ called a town of country-seats; each being disJ ^^utj tinct and adorned with gardens. The new militarjJ ^^ B academy, a brick edifice four stories higbj**^*ti occupies the middle of a wide lawn, upon whicll^^*'i the dull rattatoo was sounding as 1 passed, an(p^co»J the Cadets, about one hundred in number, weJ*^'^^^ t collecting for the double purpose of exercise anJ^'^^>** health. , , I for With the greatest delight, I surveyed the darf ^^''^pc and silent waters of the Connecticut, and stoof ^'"^i**! awhile conteroplating the stream from its over "^'"mi < c V C as of th( io\ hy ged U were, forty and that a at the battles of six miles gealso em bo- one hundred whilst I was ce, I observed Lached masses ing them into ther purposes, iry skill and i he most excellent lands rboS'"'-'^'""H'irc. of the Connecticut: and the n. ^'^ '" '"^ ^"'^ communication from the ea "lTf'"^^'^''blc. °4ttr^ ^""^' - 5hr;tr.rr co-it tdt'te't?'; '^-^ "^ ^^'^'^ - -'"> the Conneci J" ;;"•"-' '^. - .ell of the celebrated Green J^ I *^ '°'^"^»' "dge ^"■^ "ight^ ocean Si^':t'"«««'«nds. uL """^'dB the regions of «1 ""^ ^"^^ ^llow Jar scattered around nIT -^u " '^"^'" "%es f d aspect of these .e.S'"''""''''"? *« --"g- -5 andairord^.hrthri!?!.. - 4 li Mountains at ly behind us, river spreads ■ gea aspect of these «/.r^o'""""'""'^'"^ *^e rug. ospect, wherel feHile, and afford, wherfr^'^ '^'^ ^'^ ^ery iges of colle-l steep for the plough II '^''^^'"''^''^«^^e too he undulatoryl ishing herds which ',"'^. ^"^ ^" ^^""'^ aston- rich may bel markets, and which arp "^'"^"^ ^^' *^^^ ^o'-eign .ch being disJ south, and east, either to m'''^^ ^">'ng, north, B new militai^ or Boston. My lantn ^^^'^^''^a'. A'ew-York ,. /I*i,„x. ^'^■^ 'andJord in Cfo/v_ , ^'^'k. .ch being dis-l south, and east, either to M^"l^^ ^"^ing, north, B new militaol or Boston. My land. ° **ontreal. New-York stories highJthat more cattle had mlZ Z ^T^°'^' "^^^ted , ..^^r, »K:«iIthan h« i..j ••"Passed hisdoor th». o s new railitaijl or aoston. My landl ^ ."'^'> JNew-Yorfc stories highJthat more cattle had mlZ Z ^T^°'^' "^^^ted ,,upo„ whicjthan he had ever b^e tunfV""' '''^''' I passed, anJ«ccounts in the public dL7. Tf ' """^ 'ate number, weJand thousands passing ovlr ^l n ^""^"^^ f exercise anJf'er. confirm the assertion Connecticut I For real romantic scenerv h c reyed the daifowpetitors. The M 7' "''' ^tate has few- :ut, and stoJuWime. With beautiful ;:S.es";;tr °i *^ from it. ovef harming, renderit a desirable spotX'^cr"'* /•I If lit ii4C P£D£ST>trAN TOUIl. I! , ■! I 1-1 j y « It 'U - I 7. *■!-!!: ^ live excursions. It is, however, too deficieut in lakes and lofty peaks, to make it a Northum- berland or a Switzerland. Until the year 1791, Vermont remained a separate and independent community : and although it had not enlisted with the other provinces, in the war against Great Britain ; it stoutly repulsed every aggression of that nation, into its territories. The people bear the charac- ter of being remarkably hardy, and capable of suffering the greatest excesses of heat and cold. They are robust, hospitable, and not very inqui- sitive : and we are under no small obligations, for the respectability of the American character in general, to the assistance of the Green-Moun- tain-Boys. Most of the tavern floors, in my way through the country, were occupied by venerable citizens, discussing at these convenient meeting places, the affairs of governors, states and nations. if* H. NEW-HAMPSHIRE. i • ''v't m •J ■» Near the banks of the Connecticut, is situatedlfoo^ ^ the town of Hanover. Its magnificent housesl their 1 to the number of about eighty, are dispersedloftbos about a quadrangular green, and upon one sideJapt ce Dartmouth college and an adjoining chapel|B_,. . with poplar trees growing in front, occupies wioots' ^ perspicuous station. This fanious college wipcheiiie founded under the British dynasty ( 1769J iJearned i • Br, Eleazev Wheelock, aiid prospered t^rowglbejllun Mii! too deficieut a Northum- ^^« TOL'll. ! ; remained a unity : and li the other t Britain; it f that nation, r the charac- d capable of Bat and cold, tvery inqui- i obligations, ;an character Jreen-Moun- •8, in my way by venerable ent meeting states and it, is situatedi icent houses re dispersed ion one side, ning chapeli t, occupies college wi ' (1769,) ; red throui ,1 --«« *OL'll. ^'^« patronage of fK r^ 2^J. '»<^cM withll tu" ^''^ ^^ I^artmouth r tTntlr '""^'•^' '^ctures 1 '^?' ^'^"^ ^^^o, V^ter pupils; and also a "^'^'"''^^ ^o the Resigned roreornmons but r^' of buildings f'^iy board in the pub/ie i" ^' ''"^'^»^« Prince ^; institution are'^exiil nr^'- ^'^ ^""^s o f.^«^ds of nearly twTh.T' ''°"«'«f'ng in the ' ^^J annual incoLZ'^^^^^ »7"^ern parts of this L. " ^''''''''^ '« o e irt^' ^"''^ ^" ^be green r ''^ ^«"^*'er. Windows ^r .1-^ ^'^e green Tk *^'^'®®a, P'-'P't^'ith great eZlir "'''""' '^^'^ "he ,*:"• hats gloriously n,h "P" ''°°'-. wavj g^gen'us loudly exclai It tr"' ""^^ «» f-'. good Dick B-r» . '^®" ''one Diet '*'^°^«nw President; e » 'I 1 Ill !^i *i 1 ; V .; ■ k ■}] i;i.: fii Ik ■' I i- l» ■ ■ ■ ' i X4 ,1 '4 .>.;■ |;l I « 244 PEDESTRIAN TOUll. which the trustees had been three days discussing. The interior of Dartmouth college appeared, by the lights, to be neither well finished nor kept in die very best order. My road from Hanover to Concord, capital of the State, a distance of fifty-five miles, was chiefly over an uneven and sterile tract. Through the sides of the hills, limestone rocks projected, and only here and there, upon spots thinly covered with earth, the husbandman attempted to scatter the seed. The White Mountains, which lay in the north of New-Hampshire, and rise to the height of ten thousand feet perp»;ndicular, exhibi- ted their bold summits from this remote quarter : all othar parts of the view were one wide ocean of swelling hills. Rushing down with many a bold leap, streams, receiving numerous accessary brooks as tliey tumbled between the stony ravines, reached the bottoms of the intervales, and spread, with clouds of birds hovering above them, into well stocked fishing ponds. Upon the half cleared grounds, weather worn fragments of rock lay strangely detached, and from their tops, immense pines and walnuts shot into the air, whilst their pliant roots, curling down the faces of the stones, dipped into the soil, and at once supported the trees upon their tottering stations, and afford- ed them a sufficiency of nourishment. The smaller fragments were enclosed by roots like! network, and the points of others were firmly grasped in the trunks. Mast pines are known t< grow here, to the height of one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet^ th th Tl iio anc san upc sion and ^heii W field. a few mate, rays \ style ( iiabita aspect ever t\ 8ee.r,ie6 around ieganc Uisab k-' n 3 discussing. ppeareU, by nor kept in d, capital ol , was chiefly lirough the ojected, and inly covered id to scatter ^hich lay in rise to the ular, exhibi- ote quarter : ide ocean of [xiany a bold ssary brooks ny ravines, and spread, 3 them, into ►n the half ents of rock their tops, le air, whilst iaces of the e supported and aftbrd- nent. The roots likei were firmly re known to 2d and fifty "^^BSTHl^S TOD„. Enfield fsivt- ^'^^ Mascomy, a„d consistsT/tw? '" "^^ ^«te J V, lages. The Cerm! X^^'"'"' ^^'^"^ singular sect have chosen 'P°'' '^Wch this ;»«"- Enfield the enn of ""' '' '"' ''^"^y. Armer. Secluded here J^ T''-' »«'g'"'ouring h'« band of hermits, paslT r "''' "'"'"'"'kind! fr""« of ,he earth, gX' ' '" ''J'' '" ^'^•^S the • Jf-". and in be:t!Z:iV''^b'^ by the sal o ">« neatness of their bJy ^'^'^'' ^"'^ "Pon J^^ village has mor^^the ^"^' •'•"'' -"^osures "°; °f public academ e! T'^T'" "^ » -olle^' ^nd women. The sT^Tt " '''^ "'^"-l^ of men -"^ coarse dre s td C'^^"" '""''"' -"^" "Ponthe/r heads, of thl n /'*' ""^ '>onnetI ■ ^^;7 The, ar;n;tXi"'""'°"^^''»-- and seem to take a pleal .rt V^' ^^'y arable their works anH ; '^'^^^"^^ '" shoving stra.,„ ^''b a hurrild'''"^*'"^"'^- ' f f • From the freSg atmrK °" '"^ ^^P"»ff- a kwmes had transporld"! '' '' °^^^«4 "'ate, where the autunlls- '"'° ' ""'^ ^l!^ •ars with unusual warmth , """'"^ '^°^'' b-s ,f yle of building, the vUJ ""^ 'P'""^""'"- The fK'tants them^',;^; I'j^^; -'d even the i'! aspect from any r had IT "'^'" ^ different K man bad^^d h f rd'^'^'"- ^O-- K.ed already to have 1'? w'""'' '""'•J-t^ Pce.^-^— st-f,-2th4 j .« : i (h i',r Hu 1 ;' f 'l:' tt; 24a PEDESTRIAN TOUR. account of the rugged wearisome road, I accepted the friendly ofter of a person, of whom I was inquiring the distance to the next inn, and entered a very large country mansion. Wealth smiled upon the exterior, and the apartments as I entered, gave tokens of superior magnificence. The social group sat promiscuously around the blazing fuel, in one large room, upon the walls of which,no signs of Canadian superstition,nor empty proofs of British parsimony, appeared; but clocks, mirrors, and cupboards groaning under their weight, stood forth as plain evidences of exube- rance anil ease. A long table occupied the floor, and, as if some lord was about to regale his faith- ful vassals with a feast, luxuries, in other parts of the world extremely costly, lay piled in pyramids upon the crowded dishes, and tanl^ards brim- ming full (not however with wine) obtained a scanty station, between massive silver tea and sugar vessels. Yet this was the abode of a plainl dwe hard-working farmer. He had been a captain ai Joca sea, and with some of his maritime gains, had beenl stru( induced to come into this place, to experiencJ arch like thouijands around him, that a man can buj abort choose and he will be happy. A beloved consori the c two- worthy sons and three blooming d«iughter J it wii were the joy of his advanced age. With a feicount friends, as well as the maids and hired men, wntbfs f were not excluded from this truly affable, alutfof the leould add, this real republican family circtey^tfche sta evening rapidly fled in the most . iBteviftiii^nted manner: the jests went round: ihe inug^ jjonjiu^ cider circulated : and the rosy apple brighte: 1 I g h fi so cc thi jou ton ricl 1,1 accepted whom I was , ami entered ;alth smiled tments as I lagnificence. around the n the walls of on, nor empty i; but clocks, under their ;es of exube- 3ied the floor, gale his faith- other parts of d in pyramids nl^ards brim- e) obtained a ilver tea and, ode of a plaini in a captain a ains, hadbee to experienci man can buj jloved conson ing d«iughter( I. With a fe ired men, w J affable, ttt nily circtey >st . iitteisifti| : ihe mug^ pie brightei **E'>ESTi.,A^ TOU«. gentien,an becaix^e 0X0^,7^ •^'''"'^'•' ''^^ old ^"^e manual ^'micTZ'T^^ ''''' '"'^^Pted 2' of his r.en who t's Ta '.''"^"^ ^^-'w "Pon a wash-basin, i„s7ead TfT""'' ^" '''' ^own Jad siientiy removed! ,'' !^\^^^'> which ho regret _^ '^' ' ^^^^ ^^ is house with ^Salisbury consists of a n„ u ^^^es. buiit chie% of IT"" '^ ^'""^'^^^ ' f^yiy painted, it l^ ^^^^ ^"d remar^.abT J"''. -d presents f cm ^^^^^^ the rid.e Tl f^enee. Hence to CoLo!dT''" ^'> <^^'nagnf! «^'' begins toassume a 2 ^""'""" "^ilesfthc countenance. ' "^^^'^ ^^eu and pJeasi„ ' Anxious to Vf^nh D o;n «te„ds a mile^ le^'^*'""' '^-'^'. This »ch d,sp,«^ of hotels i^^t ;,"^ f-' 'en,s a d«'eJi,„g,s, aod above all fh cf ^**"*- ' '"Perb «tructed of white gn,„ft/ °""^' ""^ '> con. ">« commencement of rh! ^ "r'^^"*'* ^'^'^ *o ;' '^''h Boston barbou? IT :."''"'' '^''"'-^'^ "•"ntiyaretransported'to 1^''''""°"* ''<' "'e "*w flourish;,, . "**' «ea-port thr- l I nourishing town. UnlnrHi '^°"' ""rough ^' theear/^.,our tixed '«.^ '^' "" ^<=oount f;;^-in„, wbi:1':;t!:;'--.' ''topped a '*n*«i by any thing I L"!;*^ ■"«««. ""Preee. ^-'^ country to;;:';,';'"l^'>^fo-m» ^ Presented itself tijj 3"! ■l/i I > 348 PEDESTRIAN TOt/R. I : i i li'. m i l> ! it midnight. Supper was three times spread, for at least twenty people ; and as the chambers were not very numerous, we were under the necessity of agreeing amongst ourselves for bed-fellows. My partner was a merchant, with yhose conversation I had been pleased during the evening, and we were shown along the passa- ges to a remote room. The driver roused us at four ; the coach was tightly closed to exclude the cold air; and six of us, being shut in utter darkness, felt ourselves whirling upon the south- ern turnpike. Even the slowest method of passing over a country, is too fast to aftbrd a complete know- ledge of it; much more so must be the rapid progress of a stagecoach, by which the disposi- tion of the inhabitants is only to be learned at the relays, and by which, woods, hills and valleys, receding like clouds, leave but a vague impres- sion of the beauties and qualities of the land, or the peculiar style of cultivating it. For many miles, we had not even this last consolation, of peeping through the curtains. The crimson dawn of day at length appeared : the sun rose of uncommon bigness, above the surface of a lake in which it was reflected with double brightness : and an elderly lady broke the ice of conversation, by remarking that the pond stretched in view was very beautiful. Her observation was noticed by the nods of two persons who rode backwards^ together with a side glance from them, through i the window, to the pond under consideration* I 5 i n n: a be Th S;er ma to The carc: fula ^^och iarm varie is alj Most l^egior tnarke '« itse alluvia spread, for e chambers ! under the irselves for chant, with ised during g the passa- oused us at to exclude lut in utter n the south- ssing over a )lete know - e the rapid the disposi- i learned at and valleys, Lgue impres- of the land, t. For many isolation, of he crimson i sun rose of ce of a lake brightness : onversation, :hed in view i was noticed ; backwards^ 2m, through msideration* '"' » signal, commencfdT ^ "'''° '^'""^ 'hi. 'he-r to^n, such and such 1 ^^ '"""' ««» <>( "e-^'.bourhood.and,,,,?/^"''^-^^''''-^ "t their -«^'-nins l^orse dea " ' T' ^"^^'^d remarks ™<"-"«ses, and vendin. ,7^'"^' P"^chasing metropolis.^ . "e lady, a squire of the 'W '-« '"o^s a,,J. ^i-erexvas that same ecr„nT °^ ^"Sland. 7^^ m the disposai of the S '" ^•'•*''»^ ^'"e , '^"lartof blending theu ef„ ,: """ "'""= '««- ; ^ocharacteristic of the oM LT k^ ""^ o™amenta/. — inff. Although ti' :f '1 '"^"'-' ol "aries considerablyln d 1 , ^^ °'^ "'^ State f all Primitive, fro.n vf "" ^'''''' "--geoloj Most of Ne^JE^^Z °V° "'^ «^" »'>of kion, and on tha TccoJ^f f^' t" ''""-'^ Narked clissimilarifv r,7 ' "'''""°" '» 'he Mluvial states of the south! "" ^'°™ ">'^ ;t I 0' (1 rft-#*s- 'fii,7i^:f' ...f -m> I W 11 fl •ZJO PEDESTRIAN tOUIl* It . m Our vehicle rolled speedily through Bedford, Nashford and Tungsborough, each a splendid place without one small or ill looking house about it; and in the way , we received four more pas- sengers, one of whom mounted next to the driver. Our discourse turned upon the counterfeiting of bank notes, and several interesting accounts of fraud and detection were related. It appears that the laws against counterfeiters in the New -Eng- land states, are not over severe : and men in Can- ada, by striking oif false bills as a trade, whicfe they sell by the wholesale for a moderate profit, occasion the immense How of spurious notes, for whic)>. the country has at times been remark- able. This counterfeiting traffic, which, as with honest mercantile business, has all its branches, and descends from the wholesale to the retail venders, and generally ends in the hands of the poorest and most simple individuals, is a kind of check upon the great and useless increase of banking companies. Almost every little town boasts, next to its church or court-house, of its bank. It is much to be wished that the various currencies* and numerous small banks, could g ve place to one currency, and one great na- tional bank uuough the whole United States. MASSACHUSETTS. Casting a perspective glance over America, the figures of three or four communities appear] H^ * Currency of New-England Ji? 6s. Qd. to a dollar. u to up Ti (ho tby hur whi coos they bJacJ times their Teat gittU ther ough Bedford, ach a splendid ing house about four more pas- :xt to the driver, junterfeiting of ng accounts of It appears that the New-Eng- lid men in Can- a trade, whicfe 1 ode rate profit, jpurious notes, 58 been remark- which, as with U its branches, e to the retail e hands of the uals, is a kind ess increase of wciore our imo • . -Qi Others ^ru " ^'^^'r asoecf ^k ^^^^ ^.'"g"lar history if ""^--^'i-e and extre J , ^eiebrity. An .. ''^^ngtb, have ffivpn if (-onsidering at the, "*«"«. "'^ cannot avoi.l f basing trait, the vet Z"', " f ^-P'«ou a„U '« aborigines fro„ri "'''''" -^'^Wearance j ^';ange doctrines of rl ''""°"'^'' and thos/ winch were -.r-r.^ '^'igion and of „;. ,. ^ P-ecutiolr""'''"-'' ''"■^ "- -Tt'wS "f»» 'heir bodio,,;;™' 7'""°"». »" h IT" '^ '"^^ hat the various I^lr"" •*« « M t"/ '""■•■^' --« «: J™!' """"»»'» 1 hanks, could ^-rr::s.£i:t--;.;^^^^ one great - :r4Xe™..^-"S-.r:tr^^^^^^^^^ iited states. i ,<„,^„j w ''«» >o ,/g„ „, ,„,,"'""■'"' (woii/s a boot '"«" "and, .V. ; i:,"^,^;"' """"ho b& j;^::,. °*«.-and«„,. i over America, 1 unities appeal in ( ji. :;;■ 1 #) il* i ! i ii I • 3^2 P£»£STRIAN' TOUK. ' i. IT i-^^ We passed through Dunstahle, Chelmsfora, Biilerica, Burlington and Woburn, without stop- ping more than ten minutes at either place. Burlington has becam/e famous for its extensivQ theological institutions, which are brick build- ings of extraordinary elegance as well as simpli- city. Not wishing upon any account to loose thefirst sight of a great commercial town, I agreed with the gentleman, next the driver, for an ex- change of places, and accordingly took the elevated station which he willingly left. The weather was clear and warm. Leaving the level country, we began to glide with undulatory speed through the picturesque wilds about the environs of Bos- ton, where nature, bold, rocky, hideous, with here and there a merchant*s seat perched upon the heights, envelopes the dusty vehicle, and pre- pares the beholder for a change of scenery, dou- bly striking from the contrast. At length cloudy domes and spires, rear their peaks above the hills. The toll of some bell dies in the distance. Increased life and popu- 11: though carefully locked up, it was com'eyetl away by the demons to del further mischief. Another vroman was teased by a spectre m a white [ sheet, which no body saw but herself, till she tore off a corner of it, and] then it became visible A:c. &c." Mather's Magnolia. In book VlJ Chapter Vll. {Thaumatographia Pneumatica) of this curious worM hoflQ is related a long list of preternatural occurrences of a different spe-l cies ; and the learned author says, in preface to the account of a watl r 'I'M with Sagamore Philip, '* that the people were alarmed with prodigtcJ %hich denoting their approaching troubles, i'he report of great and mftll ^ f^ g^ns, and the sound of drums and troops of horses riding to and frl ^^ were heard in the air by a number of incontestible witnesses." Bool ^'OStor VII. Chapter. Vf. CArma virosque Canc.J ^ P^hich i.-. Chelmsfora, rithout stop- ither place. its extensIvQ brick build- 11 as simpli- int to loose wn, I agreed , for an ex- : the elevated rhe weather ivel country, eed through rons of Bos- 18, with here ed upon the le, and pre- ;enery, dou- is, rear their f some bell } and popu- )r the demons to del inorire in a while I jauGu begins to .»;. grounds. ^=r. "^ '''' ^^O""^* the adjacent ^^ow openinjr beVnmi n ""'•• Farther off. spr 'L ufT °"' "^ ">« "a- ^-•>rce.^diseing„i,,Pbr . r'''"'' "'ores. %. and between t^o Vo I " ''•■"•='■' «'" "'« ffa'lant ships are .-..^r "* P°""s of Jn„d To the person wh. . ^"""''c ocean. '■';-ea-pVa:th-ra"'"'"'°'''''-^^«- 0/ those majestic and ef ''"'"" '' ''^P"ved "■-^^a coast a,vva,sl]r";"- ^'^"^' ^''Wd, ''fP'hs of forests and S ' '"'=""•" ^'°'" tho P'^ce that bears even a ^1 ""'"'"'' "> ^°'«e °"e which he has left 'f' ^^'^""Wance to the ''gl'tful rambles which S" ""'"'"• ^he de- !''-''«=' of beloved Sn'sr T °"^'' -Jo,ed. ''»de adieu, (he conscious^ m ^'" ■"« ''^^ 'ono. ^en of a to,v„ St W ^'''''^of his bei„. „ ci " :-^^efore h/nl' Z S::". "'"^ -^"'S " of ;ts strength, its policy if7'"S ^*"^o"ections «,"eut ruiers-all croT;] ' r'°'?^'"="^' ''^ <>- m •acornerofit,ans cx- aa. In book VI .pire to involve him T "f''" '''^^' ^»d con i».8cur.ou8wori^l hails the S3I^ ^ ^ P^easino-revpr- , fa different spe- 1 . "'^ Salt Waves wifh «\l .^^^^^^^C; ^q accountofawaJ«P'r«ntheodourof«,i.,. . ^'^^"^'^S'^, and ...' .iscnou. word hails the "sjir" ''"" *" " p'eas.n::;;;:';" "t fa different spe- 1 . "'^ Salt Waves wifh «\l .^^^^^^^C; ije account of a waJ «P'r«nthe odour of sal^ J ,^"^^"sjasm, and vp ' ledwithprodigieKhichthevn^ '"^'^'^^S, with a snhor " great aid «»«il ^^^^ "ever could fornier v hn '^^'''" ' 52 "'^'Se vessels, and J '! !:?* ^ [^ U It;,.. .,' H-' 'm 254 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. has many of them built upon its banks. The ca- nal from the Merimack, continues parallel to the west side of the Mystic, an(i^ ^hat forms an un- exampled concurrence, the narrow space between them, like an intermediate step, is filled up by the great turnpike : so that vessels are sailing in the river, or dipping the ends of syphons into the canal, and receiving, for their outward voya- ges, their supply of water, originally from the Merimack : heavy laden canal boats are slowly moving above them : whilst carriages of all kinds are rattling upon the intervening road. Passing through Charleston, which may be considered as a detached portion of Boston, we crossed one of those numerous and very long bridge's, that connect the peninsula occupied en- tirely by the town, with the nearest points of land ; and proceeding through narrow streets, reached the sign of the Rising-sun. I ; i . li-'! , The ca- illel to the ms an un- e between led up by sailing in )hons into ard voya- from the re slowly fall kinds i- ■ t\ ' I may be Joston, we very long :upied en- itsofland; s, reached i'EDESTRIAN TOUR. 25A CHAPTER X. >I^OM BOSTON, THROUGH THE ST.. "THE STATE OP nHODE-rsf A vn TONEW-YonK. Monday, Oct -'J(h 1)121. <=«» listen to daV ec tl !«"'"'°"' »"' "ho »"d prosperity of anTc t ' „ ?r'"''"«' '^^ '^0'«' ^"her from occas'ona IT t°"' '"''^''vouring. journals, or fromTe 1 ^^f "« '" ,""« P-..ed ,<='"=en8. to form some ,11 ;°' ''^ '"'^■" »"! perused in hisloryTbr^T°^'^'^'^'°''''^ns P°"«« o„t immediat^,,tl """''• '=""°«''y obtaining particular itX"'"'"""^ ""^^ of potential town. J, '' «»'trerning their "The appearance of Bo' ^'^^nings? "P;n a bridge. ^t^Tl^T'^f'"''''^' ^''-^ ^•'"e been a mile and a ZT, , '''""*'^''^ ""av °"r rambles to the oldtnT ''^' '"' ^'"^'^^^ ^"Y and to the well k'r """ "^^ Cam- Charleston. Here m.J""'"' P«nin««la of ."•« "Park of independenciV^^ ""' '^ ^Wch ''resistable flame ^"^.1'"' ''■""^^ '»*« an *at the arms of AmpH *" P^n'nsuia it was Bunker's hill. fe„ mode"„ e„I ? *" "««"« of ^l^thy of being celeb«S!2^f .'"^"'" ^"^ mo« Throughout the most r^J^ "' " '" "'''''^^■ mentioned by the peoDU !/ r*' ''^t'^rit acquainted with £ nt • ,'"'°'»' ««»»« «« "'•^'r know, that in^P^"'^"'*''. "nd other^ -^-eneounterhapAnTa^l^-jr- 8j , '^"^''e « mewcw^ I Ill oj; 'i68 PEDESTRIAN TOUR. had already sent ten thousand troops to Boston, over whom general Gage, the governor of Massa- chusetts, was commander-in-chief. The Ameri- cans as quickly collected in great numbers about Cambridge, two or three miles from the town, under their commander-in-chief, general Ward. Entrenchments were ordered to be thrown up at Cambridge, and the hardy provincials became eager for the combat. < , . - ; « Charleston peninsula presents a very hilly sur- face of ground. The village stood upon the point nearest the town : not far behind was the principal eminence ; and other eminences stood farther from the point, among which was Bunker's hill, from which the battle receives its appella- tion. In a council of war, the Americans resolved upon entering Charleston and fortifying the heights. Prescot, an aged officer, was dispatched in the night, and with great exertions and secrecy, he cast up a redoubt upon the principal emi- jience, and a breastwork down to Mystic river. Daylight opened (June 17th 1775) and exposed to the astonished Englishmen, those bulwarks, which the power of enchantment alone seemed able to have raised, so near their own ships andl the floating batteries. Their vessels commenced! bJa firing, and the town was soon thrown into the! bos greatest tumult. Three thousand troops weri sent over under general Howe, to displace thi jbold intruders ; and part of them having landed were so secure of conquest, that they ukifoldec Fin ofh inst Jiebc [)s to Boston, nor of Massa- The Ameri- umbers about om the town, eneral Ward, thrown up at iciais became irery hilly sur- od upon the ehind was the linences stood I wasBunker*s es its appella- icans resolved fortifying the /as dispatched IS and secrecy, >rincipal emi- Mystic river. ) and exposed I lose bulwarks, alone seemed own ships and commenced «heii- knapsacks, and as .l,» '"'' Of |"e deta.ch«'e„, t /etlrvT '" '"^ '*'' C-eneral Warren and pT ^ ^'""'^"'• reinforcements to the hill Jh? '"'''^'"^ '^''h breastwork of rails and W*;"" """'her slight Jom the redoubt towards ^ar' '""""^ ''^'^'''^ the surrounding hills of/J. "'"• ^^Pon tants. interested on eil T'^''^' "'^ '"''abi- ho'd the spectacle a! a r T^^' '" "°^'^^'i to he- ««t important stuSre^'S'tr" ^""''^ '"'« pies of Boston were no,; fiila • T*"' "»♦' ''<^^- =«ns. or devoted wivesoTn '1 '"f. ''"^''"«' ^'ti- p-i"g upon the 11° „r""*"^"'''««»-"ely Jike numerous spectators "T"^"'"^ *«"or! -;« "rilliant toElmem ""^ '^^ "-' ^^ "Ke the interrupted opal. „<• i "*' "itervals, "•odiDg a storm the artin *""" thunder fore- -«d. tl>e pol,shed arX fefl ?';' ''"^ '•''^«"- 7« of a scorching sur fiTn"^ '"^ ^^rtical ed, and waved exultinl; .""^""^^re display. royal battalions S^ilf"'"' "'^''^'>'"' of tYe -f «hot flew from the ei^, ''''"''^''- ^<'' thousand five hundred Z " "'^"^ ' but one black -iphurousm :t'",^2.t r'"''' ">-' ho^om of a Briton. 1 few ° , '""P''»"»^ Fire cri»^.k . '^^ rods intei-„»__ f . ™ :''"'P"'""ou« muzzles earh/«.r™ "'e'r irown mtothf bosom of a Briton ? r""^ P^'Pitatin^ 1 troops we« Fire! cried the venen.blt i^."?''^ '"'^-ned!' 1 troops wen i'lre! cried the venerable p ''°'" '"tervened to displace 4, •fbis voice was tie al„;:r''«nd the echo having lamled instruments of death fh^^ '°'"' "^ helcbinc tl.ey unfold^a abounding voice t'heavlf'"^;; °^ -'th : Z «aveii. Dowji reeled the I 1:1 I. i| ;l ill< '■{ ' -i I: ^■-'1 m' i\ !', V k soo PEDESTRIAN TOUB. dismayed soldiers: backwards the broken lines fled precipitately. The waving banners now shook tremulously, whilst many a gushing wound, dyed the parched slope of the contested emi- nence. , ,. But Englishmen are soldiers of honour : they are cool, resolute, courageous ; are every thing, but Americans. An unexpected shock will dis- may the bravest. The shame of being repulsed so quickly, and the expostulations of their officers, induced them to return again to the charge and renew the fiery contest. From the village of Charleston, which was even at that time large and populous, a thick column of smoke was observed, gradually rising like a triumphal arch towards the Americans, and melt- ing above their heads. The flames then burst forth, and every house of the town disappeared in a red envelope of fire. What a sight to the distant spectators ! Now, the British troops, by whom the village was fired, had reached nearer to the entrenchments than before, without having a shot directed towards them. Again the dreadful voices of Putnam, Warren, Pomeroy, Stark and Prescot, resounded at once with the fatal word-^Fire!— and horrible tumult winged its malignant course throughout the amazed ranks: they recoiled and fled — They fled from shouts of Victory, victory, this day is our^ Rage took possession of the British comtnanders* iCUntoD sprang intda boat, and appeared atndngst •roken lines anners now ling wound, I tested emi- •nour: they jvery thing, >ck will dis- ng repulsed leir officers, charge and ch was even lick column sing like a s, and melt- then burst lisappeared sight to the ish troops^ id reached ►re, without Again the , Pomeroy, e with the ult winged he amazed y fled from our^ tmtnandeii^ "'e defeated soldiVr, ■ ^-m hfs present *;"n;;''°.r'"'^"^'^ --g^ '^as formed. ' "** " '''"'^'•en' Plan of attack The Americans had Pvn^., 1 J """"unitiou; their n.usketr^.'"*''''^''" ">eir »"«^ and reinforcement J '"'"""'« "'■bay- reaching them, by thel"!':^ '"•"■^"tecl from "'f batteries across the ^^1!,!' "= ^""^ ""e float- ■*"'«. As the rova art ,J '^"""°^"'epe„i„. P°f ■■"•on for rakin Jthe ea h2; f "'' ' '^''"'-"b'' 7''ants, desperat: at beS '"■T'"'°*' "'e as- ^'o"'" their cumbrous k2 7' ''"■'="^''' "■«- coats, and furiously dashTi/ ' ""•^^"'"e 'heir opposition. TheyCped „ ""'7'' ''«'""'' ^'ver/ "«n todies made by tSfr"" "" '"°"'"' of hu^ he. current of whilt LTfcr"''"^'' '"^^^ ^»h'cb poured against them If^ '^ '•""'-g atones counter with thedestructl^'h "'' T '" "'°»« ^n- fet«- The fire from 1^21^^'''"^ '"''^ 'oose ramparts, and re' LTl'^'V'"""'' °Pc" 'he Americans became absouTel!! "'' P"' "'^ 'he en,an,ed, dealing dearw^, "'''"■>' •^''"'hey Wo^r. til, the ditch ZmZ T"^ descending «' length retired fZ . "''"'"'««'«'•». They Kk. in good order Id St'''"*"" """^ •'^«-'- ^hose who defended Z mifl"!"" ''^^ ^^'^^''cd. N" wing retreating, at the 2*' '''''''^'"S the hpectation of overcomi .t .r """"'^^ "^cre i„ hder the necesshy 7f .^t ' "'''"^' '^^'"c also ';'«*. broken, and xbaLtedb:^ """^ ^^''^b! toy. stopped upon be wn^^ ""^ ''*" of the •"quishedthanLco uer s ' 7" '"^ '^ I ^ ^^^^' ^^^ were unwil. If ' n',^ 262 PEDESTRIAN TOVI. iS" ling to advance any farther. The retiring army, through the persuasions of Putnam, were about to return to the charge, when a vciley was poured down upon them, which occasioned greater loss than they had before suffered. Superiority of num- bers, a better supply of arms, and well directed artillery, forbade them any hopes of a rally : and they marched through a thick raking tire over the isthmus, to the fortifications at Cambridge and upon the neighbouring hills. Many brave men fell on this memorable day^ The loss of the Americans was not half that of the English : but the fonner have ever to deplore the death of Warren, the illustrious President of the Congress. The hills of the peninsula of Charleston, are at present considerably displaced by commercial houses. Part of the celebrated eminence remains, overtopped by church steeples and edifices; and on the summit, is a level green containing a monument to Warren. We continued our rambles around the spot, where American freedom recieved its birth. Half levelled by the hand of time, some remaining fortifications stand on a hill, as evidences of former deeds of patriotism. I mounted the highest parapet : my companion took a volume from his pocket, and sat upon the counterscarp of a grassy moat Like the actor who personates a king on his throne, I could almost believe myself esmltecl in reality above the people that were trudgiiigl alon^ the road below me^ and, as I^thought of th^ tiring army, fere about to ^as poured greater loss >rityofnum- rell directed a rally: and fire over the nbridge and ; '.I norable day^ df that of the > deplore the sident of the eston, are at commercial nee remains, difices; and containing a id the spot, i birth. Half 3 remaining ?es of former the highest me from his ) of a grassy es a king on self exalte4 ire trudgiii^l jughtofthfc 'BDESliiiAN TOUR fad the good forC ; Je XlZ '." ^'"^^ ' '«« not sat around the arm!d T ^'"''"^'^n relative, and listened Ji?h I'u"- "^ "" "Sed «lowi.« descriptionr of ?""'«''«'"> to his h's tales of p^t eveWs ,L ?V ''^'^ °»er I'J'ere is a fecliL ^ "'^ '^™er virtue. -pecti„gVrda:f„~.'^, '^'"' "»« -itafs casts over thp i^ "^ ^"^^ remembered P'easingt^in fdrS'^tr™''"' ^ 'h«t we may pace the "1 7'*''°'^"'''«»'>''"' 4 ? ' 'iO'i PEDESTRIAN TOLK* t • J I •r ii my former method of travelling, that I lIiosc oiki more the peripatetic style. Harvard University, it is scarcely necessary to mention, stands first in reputation on the American continent. The college buildings are numerous, are of brick, and stand upon a lawn handsomely enclosed. Besides the lectures which are here delivered to a great concourse of students from every quarter, there arc other distinct courses, delivered by physicians in the town. Many elegant seats are situated in the vicinity of this place. At Dedham, which is a large village, I found the hotel occupied by a convivial, party of country lads, who, with musical instruments, displayed their several talents and kept the whole house in a tumult. Leaving them, I went on three or four miles towards the next inn; but missing the way in the dark, advanced a considerable distance upon a wrong road, until I met a suspicious looking fellow in the woods, who wished me a good evening. IIo had a stout cudgel in his hand, and appeared to manouvre a little. When I set out on my tour, a friend had given me a walking stick, which proved to be hollow; and knowing the emergencies which wandering strangers sometimes encounter, I had still retained it. At this moment, the end b}' mere chance, fastening in the clayey soil, the handle separated and exposed to the eyes of the vagrant, the glittering appearance of steel. He moved to the side of the road, said he lived across the lots, thpt I must turn back (o recover my way, 1 1 those OIK I d University, stands iirBt in itincnt. The of brick, and ised. Besides ed to a great uarter, there !))' physicians re situated in am, which is :cupied by a with musical talents and caving them, irds the next rk, advanced g road, until 1 the woods, 2 had a stout > manouvre a a friend had roved to be ncies which unter, I had , the end b}* ey soil, the eyes of the steel. He lived across ver my way, '■""'"'AH ,o„. . _ I '•'"•get through whiT*^'"* "« the odIv ^^-Ifl. the dm. Jo7,^ ''r*''* «ft^ feet ^f »» a circumstance «Ti. *^"°*'«»W'niitr '» the midtt of dweK, • *'"''*' ''« '""'wn^ nver supplier "'^''e' »urface of the "»» preparing to aet « f ; ^ ""^ Jfe^-Yorir '"«»"•. The inte^T o^ *' '^'^ "f X' «o« Aowy edificeT.IdT''*^ '■" '"'«''/ttI top of the hilj. „p^' ^'"''jr^i'V fiom fte "^'■'iM »Iei» of N^^ eJT"' towo. « ^•ri*^ peninsula, "anffi^?* "*'»* •" »«« as alluvia-is*'*' '^f^ 23 ''P°"**' and a««r 11 I 'I " ,> •'••i r i\' ih u'^ W ■; I » \n : if f ,' 360 PeD£STRIAN TOCB. disposed as to form what might truly be called, fantastic harbours : such is Penobscot bay ; such is Boston-harbour; and such in a peculiar man- ner is Narraganset bay of Rhode-Island. It is a quadrangular inlet of the sea, nearly filled with the most fertile islands, and branching off like horns at the two corners, into Taunton river, and into the confluent Patuxet, (not the Patucket) Wanasquatucket, and Seakonk river. Provi- dence lies on both sides of the Wanasquatucket, near its junction with the Seakonk. A lofty hill rises on the east side, at the foot of which, where space enough for two parallel streets a mile and a half in length was allowed, the chief commercial part of the town is closely crowded. But it looks as if the head of the northwest arm or horn of the bay, had once reached a mile or two past the town, and a level piece of land projecting abruptly from the opposite side, had created a wide cove, that now lays detached from the inlet, in a most singular manner. Across the. part thus constricted like the neck in the middle of an hour-glass, is thrown the Central bridge, and the finest buildings are spread a mile west- ward upon the level promonto*^. Vessels of every description come quite up to the bridge, and are consequently encompassed by the ware- houses which they furnish with goods, and from whichithey are loaded: masts with their yajt4$Mrinia, and jacks, vie with church-steeples aikl ||j||^ wtatbercocks^ v^^sifa 'rF f < 1f*|j ly be calleil, [>t bay; such ^culiar man- and. It is a Y filled with iiing off like Dn river, and le Patucket) rer. Provi- isquatucket, k. A lofty »t of which, llel streets a d, the chief jly crowded, rthwest arm id a mile or ece of land te side, had tached from Across the. \ the middle itral bridge, I mile west- Vessels of the bridge^ ly the ware- s, and from iiryajr4|Mri^l^ *r •^"""•ches (and there a!i '^"'- **<»' "f the "'he Epieeopa,. wh ch L^' "" ^ """'■'« them ••wpe. and purity of ?' ^^^ elegance of it. -^. a„ oV^^^: , V2 e Of architectn;: ^ot many yean. ,„„ j ^^ *'*'es. P'f «"" «.n.ilar ,0 the r °'^ ^""^'"''" "• the «me month of tL T "•« happened ?u.t drove the accuLi ' 7'°"' *« '"ri""* f» ««' bay up the ?„r r n"""'" °^ Narra- f^d "^ept the U^e^ J^^,^" ''^ "•<"« .float. '"/<> the cove, where ^h» "^"'"^ ">« brid- es' a monument of :: tzTr': '°"« '-««'- We had a deli^hV^ "^adful calamity. ^''•e Shores .erf;£; ;;"/-" "/harbour. Ijouaes appeared persSu';:' n""'""'^ '-■» •'OOP", and schooners a" ?hi i, '^"' °' ''"g». *o "»e a common simile 1 '' '^"1 e^e^ hound both for forS^' hK '^''""«' around ^'«'e ports in the b^ :«""'"'"■<"•-'='•' Greenwich, and WickforW ?!'"°'' ^amick. 'he irind freshened aid ^""«g «he nigh P'-'Jeuce island ' We T ^'""""=''°' "«£ »«t«orning, when U,' s^^"^ ^^'^Port ,be **«"»e degree, we were !•? *"f««"»S 'o an *We the whole day 'compelled to stop ill y 208 FEITESTRIAN TOUR. BM ■'U' f^ ^ ¥ -I ij. ..>.^f ' This town, the second in consideration, is situ- ated on the large island from which the «tatc receives its name. Thirty years Lus made little alteration with regard to the population, trade, and appearance of Newport. It stretches a mile along the shore, has a beautiful State-house» no small number of meeting houses, a very long pier, and a fine harbour. The concourse of shipping is considerable ; and many fine mer- chantmen are here fitted out for the European trade. Upon the whole, Newport is an ill* looking place, and almostdevoid of the rural ele- gancies of surrounding trees and gardens. They have a curious style of mason work, which con- sists in laying broken stones of all sizes and shades so completely together, that the fissures, with- out mortar, are evenly joined, and the whole in perspective resembles the polished breccia of the Capitol pillars of Washington. We embraced the opportunity of making an excursion, over the neck which defends the town from the ocean, to a terrible chasm in the bed of rocks, which has been appropriately named. Purgatory. One morning the people near this place were sur- prised by a ship in full sail, slowly approaching directly towards the strand. She was hailed, but no aiiswer was returned. She struck and fas- tened, and was immediately boarded by the inhabitants, when to their astonishment mot a soul was to be discovered on board, v^Mfil|r thing was in order; the breakfast table^imi spread in the cabin, and a kitten played upon the floor. It was never learned whence she I-EDESTIIIAN TOUR. 369 came, or what ever becamp nf i. Phasing a quantity offish fo, k?:' ^"•- "famoujesto-^outfor'sea On ^^^P"" -hichaids in forming tthTrto" *""*' '/''"•'J. •nations and a garrifon nl ' "''* '^''"'- promontories, havTSes upt'trt '"'^ protection of the entmn?! k f J **'" '°'' "'e difficulty and e/iTe :; m!l '^ T"" °' '^^ <=omplete.thepS„fr ? ""* ''«''«'«« here, was abanj^ed "^ '"' "''^'" "«?<" TuKs^er™ Yet this flourishfnl '^ *' "■"* Population. t-«.e.y fr^m ?dLTaSs T "''^'^ - pear to have given ^St*; a7' ?"" ""- ^o-^t. and prevented Z'rea/in ■"'"'''' commerce and rich -a fn,.«Ji ^ 'ncrease of William, was pop;^^^^^^^^ 'T'^'^ «°8«r « 1635. with a TfJ r .. '"^^'■- *^« <='«>« opinion^L eLStiemr^K ".''"' ^*"s-- %n.outhand MSatCs : ^7''^' ''''- establishing a fri^ndlv in,„ Fox-pouU. and «achems. bL„ the fo" k"?"''' '"^^'"1""' his escape from n °'"''.'''"^'' in gratitude /or fe la^e Isl/nZ t ^^.^tr » -tt.ed h|«^ittosoflourishi„\rond -XT ^wwMUed the name of thp I^a^^ c a ^* »««*°t this island is ctfefl^devoH "■'"''' " •6«- Mines and valulhi ^ '° P»*'"- and valuable quarries have bew -yif ■' I i: V I ■■It ^ ■ » • 270 PEDESTRIAN TOun. IS 4 ii opened in the interior parts of the country, and from these resources, it has obtained considerable note for its stone-lime and hardware exports. Cotton is brought from the south, is manufactured in its mills, and returned with advantage in the form of shawls, stripes, muslins, or handker- chiefs. I ■' There is no marked difference between the people of Rhode-Island, and those of other New- England states. But there is a distinguishable difterence between them, together with the other New-Englanders, and the inhabitants of the south. Amongst ourselves we call the former Yankies ; but foreigners have dubbed us all with that title. The latter according to their respec- tive states are denominated, Virginians, Ken- tuckians, or Georgians. The New-Englanders, considered as one body represented in an in- dividual, are a sanctimonious, sober, good-look- ing, and withal an enterprizing neighbour, full of excellent thoughts and new inventions. The southern people, considered in the same manner, are a hospitable, complaisant, as well as a profane, slave driving and swarthy looking personage, who, however, keeps a ^harp eye to his own aggran- dizement and that of his country. The middle States, among which New- York stands pre-em- inent, hold that just medium, which cannot fail to produce respect and veneration. A rapid journey through Vermpb<^ Hampshire, Massachusetts, and Rhode-Iiiliii||^ exclusive of Maine and Connecticut, coald ii(^ >» > -'^ Mi'^-k: •l country, and considerable arc exports, nanufactured intage in the or haudker- between the f other New- tinguishable ith the other mts of the the former I us ail with heir respec- lians, Ken- Englanders, l in an in- , good-look- :hbotir, full tions. The me manner, » a profane, 3nage, who, ¥n aggran- rhe middle ids pre-em- cannot fail '^^ xie-»liM|^ coald ni *e expected to give a n»„ . England. nXL\ZToV"" ''"^ ''' ""'- various parts, with occasioL? * ««idence in U reasons of the ^r Z ''"""''''"'"^""''e knowledge of the coumW ^'"^ ""^ '^ '^""^ct «Iter,notwitb8tandiDgtbe«nH r*"""' *« '™v- «;"« observe throughout thr^''"P'°«'ess. ^orth America, a Sal '"'Se portion o ^'de».ofthee.c;ii:n:e„nlr''? "'"'" °'' "" an equality in the sharL!'*-!*"!' "'"' •^'•'•"ate. "on^. that provesTjrL ^'""""■'"P'<^"c- condiUonofthe people 1h *''*">' "ffl"*"' ease and fi^dom^condu^ ' ""*' ^''^'aWe the slightest murmur S-n?; ''"^""'J^nied by the geneniJ constitutiorwhib ^^ ""*'' °'^" °^ ernment founded on t^. """^ hwagov- iherty could exhib!" ^ tbe""^' P""-Plef of rbo British boast orZrlT'^^"^' "'"^W- h"twhyisthe,^ .ucbTdif «"'""' ^''^^om:^ '"fiorgntdes of ^i' ''It'^r """""^ *« a« i I > < I II 'i 27a PEDESTRIAN TOUR* .« r um 1' I i> 1 ■ ?! f i at may be heard often sung to the listening and pleased multitudes^ *' Merrily everjr bosom boundeth, Where the song' of frte Jom soundeth.~" '•M{ It would appear, that the smallest shade of monarchical gloom, or of aristocratical fear, was entirely dispelled, and the glory of perfect independence had shed, honour, concord, ente- prise and religion upon the hearts of the people. And shall the rest of the United States be exclu- ded from this moderate eu login m ? " If," said a statesman of France in 1791, " from the incon- stancy so natural to her, Liberty has stolen from her European adorers, and has decieved them by leaving licentiousness in their room, let us traverse the vast extent of the Atlantic to inquire whether she has not established her throne amidst a people, more likely from their manners to render her the worship in which she delights. There at least we shall contemplate her faithful image; and from that we shall be able to know her, if on our return we shall discover her at home, triumphant over all opposing obstacles, disengaged from the dark anxieties which threw a gloom over her approach, and ballanced in the midst of public tranquillity, as the sun in a cloud- less heaven seems to float in an ocean of light.'\* We bade welcome to the outskirts pf 5f?ir- York on the fourth day of November. JJli • Tno»l«tioD of D« U Croix. ^ PEDESTRIAN TOUR. 273 listening .t>.\ JA' n t ;8t shade Ltical fear, of perfect :ord, ente- Lhe people. B be exclu- If," said a \ the iiicon- stolen from ieved them pom, let us c to inquire her throne eir manners he delights, her faithful ,e able to iscover her ig obstacles, hich threw need in the in a cloud- of light."* is pf N[«w- jmber. ..^ towering edifices rose more and more distinct as we approached the WallahouU With throb- bing exultation, I pointed out the several places, to my attentive and wondering fellow-passengers — There is che Navy- Yard, crowded with bulky ships of war — There are our steam and team vessels, going and coming incessantly — ^The gothic spire which is now chiming, is the Trinity - church — and there is St. Pauls — and there is St. Georges, which you might imagine to be a Chinese observatory — and there is the top of the City-Hall, a superb building of white marble. As to lower objects, and especially the fine ran- ges of store bouses, little can be seen of them, through those entangled meshes of ropes, shrouds, und yardarms. We became enclosed among the vessels at Crane-wharf, and springing upon the quay, had a new subject of congratulation, in the rising columns of an extensive market, which had been reared upon the ashes of a late conflagration. Like the poor pilgrim who toiled in ancient days to Jerusalem, or the Mussulman who at length returns from Mecca, the tourist cannot \l but think himself remarkably clear in con- science, when he has accomplished the end of his journey. Persons abroad and widely sepa- rated from their friends, if they have any, are swimmers in a great ocean, who cannot find one firm rock to found their confidence upon, who catch here and there at the unstaple «tfaws that float about like themselves, and who, '{Ct^ l> ll W 1 2^4 PEDESTRIAN TOUB. «f-^ unless they are adepts and in a customary ele- ment, begin to feel like drowning men, until their feet are once more upon the terra-firma of a HOME. — But our remarks are now more than sutricienily protracted. With a " simple tale" we have made an effort, for the honour of the nation, and not altogether as maliciousness might whisper, for the advantage of ourselves, to un- fold some of the natural beauties, and artificial magnificence of North American scenery ; and until that voice, which bids the lover to clamber down the precipice to pluck for his mistress a flower, or the patriot to behold unmoved the shafts of hatred and malice aimed at his breast, again speaks, we will throw down the pen. U\ M- 1:- i ,-^M. ,{;5.-:¥y- v;;; TUE EVD^ .4V. t f Myet'$ 4 ^nith, priDten, No. 70, Fimnkfbrt'Street. New-Torit. •,¥ \?' i .U;'V^<-iu ^-iv^ffci J-l.*-i- •'■M^^^^. stomary elc- men, until ^ra-firma of w more than pie tale" we f the nation, >nes8 might elves, to un- lud artificial enery ; and rto clamber s mistress a imoved the t his breast, le pen» ■i- ^*W'^ r . New-Toriit. 1 ^.a^'iiL' •*"lim' »wk Wtntina. MYERS & SMITH .tii ^e"er-p.s. Print J^ tiT'"" '° "''^ ""* »«*% and expeditio!,,,, .L . ' """^"'""'^• «ten,ive fonts of „e. f ' ' ""^ P^'^"'-«' ''teot and best invention '^''""' °^ ** a»'::w;::i;::::^-^~rp,e.„«„, ""aii be accomodated .othX'rr"' ''^''^• and «t the West prices '*""'''"^'°»' Correct estimates of the cost nf . --e, Win be given jr^ '"*'''"•*- Cards. Blanks. PampWet,. Bills Cat». C-rculars. Military and Society S" '^"''' *c.*c. neatly executed ""^ ^°"<=^' labels. e-uted, this'fr r;::;::^''"^'^''-'"^ onhelargestsizecanbesSrptrr"*' cop.es of detached pieces &c i ' '^"'^ •noderate chaise. *"' P""**'' «' a ., "S*T- * !! . -4 ^^ ¥ r •? i M To Paptr Muhers W' i'\ W- Mvers & Smith being in some degree en-^ gagea in the business of selling Paper on Commission, and their stand in Kulton-$treet ^being well calculated for that pui^ose s inibrm ^ose who may^ in future entrust paper to their disposal, that they will make use of erery method to the advantageous sale of it. For sale, a constant supply of Binders boards also Bonnet4)oard8, Writing, Lettefi Dra\i^it%; jUid Printing Taper, &Cv &c. '-W? ■:W';-'::- f$^ *-<*'^ V '-"^^^ Constantly For Sale, hy • MvEHs & Smith. MODERN PUBLICATIOxVS. NEW EDITIONS. ' ' ' VALUABLE StIndaRD WORKs! JlMONO WHICH ARE . ^'"''^'■ton-s Voyages and Travel, a ', •^'"g a general collection „f'f °''- ''""rt"' •nost interesting VoZlZ„d T ^' '*"'' parts of the world. travels, i„ all Calmet's Dk-tionaru of the »;*/ ■ ■ toncal. critical, gec^raohiV,! . ' "'^'"^ ^is- '-herein areex^CdTl h ' '"'' ^'^'""'"gical; Old and Ne. 'llr^t'^r''" "'''"" '" '"e countries, rivers, moun a ms r ' "'T''"' ^''"-«. of natural productions iT'^'' """"'" •■'^'^"■'nt emis. stones, gem &;""''• ''^g''f»''les,„,i„. H^s:rLtD'"---A£-"--- co^o/^lSit^;--^ -h an ae- P'^e- By Wil,ia„.R„«,„'";°' Je Roman em. merous engravings. ^ ' '''"'"° '^'* "«- 24 1 'i I ^ fci' i^'s ] 1 ' ffc]'-'''*! I • » ^ 'JjP'])-! , ' ^W',H' f M Hk-!* ' 1 iH^;.. I -^ j^nR^ il^^aft 'A*-:^ 3sH|| PUBLICATIONS. Magnalia Christi Amerknna, or the Ecclesiasticai History New'Engiandf in 2 vol:, price S 5.00. By the Rev Cotton Mather, D. D. F. R. S. Propagation of Christianity, By the Rev, Wm. Brown, M. D. Essays, political, economical, and philosophi- cal. By Benjamin Count of Rumford. * Life of the Rev, Thomas Coke, L.L. D. In- cluding in detail, his various Travels and extra- ordinary exertions, with an account of his death. By Samuel Drew. j ' Letters on England, comprising scenes, with remarks on the state of Society, domestic econ- omy, habits of the people, and condition of the manufacturing classes generally. By Joshua £. White. 'v Checks to Antinomianism, By Rev. John Fletcher in 4 vols. JosephuSy translated by Wm. Whiston A. M. in 6 vols, price S 7. 50. The Youth Instructor and Guardiany in 4 vols. Book of Martyrs, being a brief Collection of most remarkable passages, and living testimo- nies of the Church of God, and faithful martyrs in all ages. Theological Dictionary, containing defmitions of all Religious terms, and a comprehensive view of every article in the system of divinity : with an accurate statement of the most remarkable transactions and events. By the late Rev. Charles Buck. Pope*s Work*s, 2 vols. r testimo- PUBLICATIONS ^^;'^ ^'P'c'ator. in X2 .ols. price 8 aoo. .i... liaffles. • ^^^"'^ '^/'^«^^''. By T. B;'o:fpr£.t.^- """" "-• ^^ '" ^^-"- hi« public and i'e 1""''''°''' "'"^"•""•^^ "f »"d useful kuoiZfl- , '"""""■^ »*' ft«« -J do„.estic i: r;;''^"L7^'''''* '-"-' E^q- M- D. i„ 3 vols octavo ' ^"""""'•Co-Per wJioie VTorJd. ^ ^•>^'^'" of the ^"in^IW^^^^^^ -^^ -tes, "-mes. price Sl'.;' '^^'^"^^'^ ^' Proper ^o?nan Antiquities, ■ L" /' '''^ lexicon of the H^^h,,. i Moore. "^ ««*'•«'' /a«„-«a^e. By C. C. ^J Adventures rl,» T»ii Par M. Fenelon '°'^*»"'?«'. «■« ). Bluomfield's Poems. .^ , > - * «.. Thompsons Seasons, - ^r J The Works of Mrs. Chapone in 2 vols. • Edgexoortk's Moral Tales. . > Odefrede, the outcast, a dramatic poem. By Samuel B. H. J udah. ^ ,