QNADA NATIONAL LIBRARY BIBLIOTHEQUE NATIONALE Gift of Offert par Estate of Arthur S . Bourinot THE ) DOMINION OF CANADA 11^° 130" ~nK 3^-iy:,rT= :^~ -t^ :°^ /*,. 105" J, ^#*%n lOO" -irf. ^d fc|Mi;'4 *5 ^•^ £«isrr J.W' -^^ ^? '"■Ttanjl. ^ « V^/«yKWi \-.« ■0-"V'T- ''5S' "^^'^o^i-- SM/rrtBlH/i .Vwi< 8^ I i 'i''''''£ •cCf '^'^'i'-^Xk W«5-^ ^^'^ ^ '^^'^'''^ ■-K>^ J'Hv^ '^'^'^-'' ,u- '?*"■ I^i^ 1^^^^.; ><^ tV/o»y ■!_ V M^¥\r''^\ ^"tv^ :'2"Ni *<9^^^.* ^N<:^ :^^,-^ ^-^^ i^^ 'VrV/ij '-^,, ■?y Y7»^ R t tsnn J'VJf^ S«ale 1:10.000.000 ^ » ' ^r^om Winnipeg to Emerson 198 From Winnipeg to West Selkirk 198 From Winnipeg to Stonewall 199 From Winnipeg to Shoal Lake 199 From Winnipeg to Souris 199 43. From Winnipeg to Banff 199 From Portage-la-Prairie to Yorktown 199 From Brandon to Estevan 200 From Brandon to Morris 200 F>om Brandon to Rapid City . 200 Korth-West Territories. Assiniboia . . 200 From Regina to Prince Albert 201 Blissouri Coteau 202 From Dunmore to Lethbridge 203 From Calgary to Edmonton 204 From F]dmonton to the Arctic Ocean 205 F>om Calgary to Fort Macleod 206 Rocky Mountains Park of Canada 208-211 44. From Banir to Vancouver. -211 The Lakes in the Clouds 211 . . Mt. Stephen. Mt. Carnarvon 213 Selkirk Mt3 214-217 Columbia River, Arrow Lakes, and Kootenay District . . 218 From Sicamous to Okanagan Landing 219 From K;iinloops to Nicola Lake and Spence's Bridge . . 220 Cariboo Di.'-trict 220 Eraser River 221 Coast Range 221 New Westminster 222 45. From Vancouver to Victoria 224 From Victoria to Nanaimo and Wellington 227 British Columbia. Vancouver Island 227 46. From Victoria to Sitka 227 Treadwell Gold Mine 234 Mt. St. Elias 237 Voyage to Unalaska 237 xii MAPS AND PLANS. Maps. 1. Rail"Way Map of Southbrn Canada; before the Title. 2. Environs of New Yobk ; p. 6. 3. Province of Quebec, from Quebec to Ottawa ; p. 32. 4. The Saguenay River and Lake St. John 5 p. 33. 5. The Maritime Provinces; p. 82. 0. Province of Ontario, from Ottawa to Parry Sound and Hamil- ton, p. 150. 7. Lake Erik and Environs, from Toronto to Saginaw Bay and Toledo; p. 164. 8. Rocky Mountains Park of Canada ; p. 208. 9. Coast of British Columbia and Alaska ; p. 228. 10. General Map of British North America; aftor the Index. Flans. 1. Halifax (p. 74). — 2. Niagara (p. 173). — 3. Montreal (p. 19). — 4. Ottawa ("p. 143). — o. Quebec (p. 37). — 0. St. John (p. 124). — 7. Toronto (p. 153). Abbreviations. R. = Room; B. = Breakfast; D. = Dinner; L. = Luncheon. — N. = North, Northern, etc.; S. = South, etc.; E. = East, etc.; W. == West, etc. — M. = English [or American) Mile; ft. = Engl. foot; min. = minute; hr. = hour. — Ho. = House; Ave. = Avenue; St. = Street; R.ll. = railroad; Mt. = Mountain. — U. S. s= United States; P. Q. = Province of Quebec; Ont. =r Ontario; N. B. = New Brunswick; N. S. = Nova Scotia; P. E. I. = Prince Edward Island; Man. = Manitoba; N. W. T. = North-West Terri- tories; B. C. = British Columbia. The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place shows its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before the principal places on railway -routes indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation. LNTRODUCTION. I. Money. Expenses. Passports. Custom House. Time. Money. The currency of the Dominion of Canada is arranged on a deciinal system similar to that of the United States, tlie unit being the dollar ($), divided into 100 cents (c. ). Canada has no gold coins of its own, hut the gold coin? of the United States are current at par and British gold coins pass at the rate of U. = $4. 862/3. The silver coins are the half-dollar (50 c,^/, +he quarter-doUar('25c. =: 1«.), and pieces of 20 c, 10 c, and 5 c. The bronze coins are of the value of 1 c. i^/od.') and 2 c. (1 d.). The cent, for purposes of calculation, is divided into 10 mills, but there are no coins of this denomination. The 20 c. piece, the main function of vrhich seems to be the decep- tion of the unwary stranger by its resemblance to a 'quarter' ( the Queen's head, however, has no crown), is no longer coined, and is seldom met with, except in the Maritime Provinces and Newfound- land. The Government Paper Currency consists of notes of the de- nomination of 25 c. (seldom seen and not now issued), $1, $2, and $4. The (chartered and incorporated banks of the Dominion issue notes for $5 and multiples of that sur:i, which are payable at par throughout the whole of Canada. For practical purposes the dollar may be reckoned as 4s. and $ 5 as il.. though, as above stated, the actual rate of exchange for il. is $ 4. 862/3 (or $ 1 = about 45. 2c/.). The European or T"^nited States visitor to Canada will And it convenient to carry his money in the form of letters of credit or circular notes, which are readily procurable at the principal banks. British and American silver coins circulate throughout the Dominion at a depreciation of 20 per cent (is. or 25 c. U.S. currency = 20 c); and travellers should be on their guard against accepting American silver coins at par value. In a few places (comp. p. 92) French gold or silver coins are accepted at the rate of 1 franc = 16 c. Bank of England notes are usually taken at their full value in the larger cities, but United States paper is often refused. Post Office Orders (see p. xxiii) afford a convenient vehicle for the trans- mission of small sums, and similar Money Orders are issued by the large Express Companies (p. xviii), vihich also transmit money Ijy telegraph. Expenses. The expenses of a visit to Canada depend, of course, on the habits and tastes of the traveller, but may be said, roughly speaking, to be much the same as those of European travel ( except in respect of the greater distances to be traversed) and considerably less than those of the United States, The hotels which charge as much as $5 a day can be numbered on one's lingers, and the average hotel expenses will not exceed $ 3 a day, while in some parts of the Dominion [e.g. Nova Scotia) they will be less than that. Persons of moderate requirements, by frequenting boarding-houses instead ol xiv 1. CUSTOM HOUSE. hotels and avoiding carriage-hire a.>j mu<*h as possible, nay travel comfortably (exflusive of long continuous journeys) for $ 4-G a day ; but it would be safer to reckon on a daily expenditure of $7-8 (28- 32«.). An entire day (24 hrs.) spent in the train (i.e. a journey of 400-800 M.) costs, with Pullmau car accommodation and meals, about $ 16-20 ( 3-4i.). The expo ses ol locomotion can often be materially diminished by travelling by water instead of by land. Passports are not necessary in Canada. Custom Honse. The custom-house examination of the luggage of travellers entering Canada is generally conducted courteously but often with considerable minuteness. Nothing is admitted free of duty, except the personal effects of the traveller, and unusually liberal supplies of unworn clothing are apt to be regarded with considerable suspicion. The traveller should be cartful to 'declare' everything he has of a dutiable nature, as otherwise it is liable to confiscation. Time. For the convenience of railways and others a Stdndard of Time for Canada has been agreed upon and a system adopted by "Which the country was divided into four sections, each of 15° of lon- gitude (1 hr.) and corresponding to the similar divisions of the United States. Eastern Time^or that of the 75th Meridian, prevails from the Atlantic Coast to a line running through Fort William (p. 192). Central Time (of Meridian 90), I hr. slower, extends thence to a line running through Brandon (p. 200). Mountain Time (105°lon.) extends hence to Donald (p.213 ). Pacific Time 1^120°) covers the rest of the country. Thus noon at Montreal is 11 a.m. at Winnipeg, 10 a.m. at Calgary, and 9 a.m. at Vancouver or Victoria. True local or mean solar time may be anywhere from 1 min. to 30 min. ahead or behind the stan- dard time; and in some cases, where the ordinary clocks keep local time (as in Halifax) and the railway clocks keep standard time, the results are confusing. n. Voyage from Europe to Canada. The chief routes from Europe to Canada are briefly described in R 1 ; and the steamers of any of the companies there mention- ed afford comfortable accommodation and speedy transit. The fares vary considerably according to the season and the character of the vessel; but the extremes for a saloon-passage may be placed at $50 (10/.") and $ 600 ( 100^. ), the latter sum securing a suite of deck-rooms on the largest, finest, and quickest boats in the service. The average rate for a good stateroom in a good steamer may be reckoned at $75-125 (15-25i.). The intermediate or second cabin costs $30-65 (6-13i.), the steerage $ 20-30 (4-6i.). The slowest steamers, as a general rule, have the lowest fares; and for those who do not object to a prolongation of the voyage they often offer as much comfort as the 'ocean greyhounds.' The average duration of the passage across the Atlantic is 7-10 days. The best time for crossing is in summer. Passengers should pack cloth- ng and other necessaries for the voyage in small flat hoxt-s (not port- III. RAILWAYS. XT manteaus), pucb as can lie easily 'u tbo cahin, as all hulky luggage is stowed away in the hold. State-i.>.'T-i irnnks should not exceed 3 ft. in length, 11/2-'^ ft. in breadth, and IG . lohes in height. Trunks not wanted on board should be marked •Hold'" or 'Ixot Wanted', tne others 'Cabin' or -Wanted'. The steamship companies generally provide labels for this purpose. Dress for the voyage should be of a plain anl serviceable de- scription, and it is advisable, even in midsummer, to be provided with warm clothing. A deck-chair, which may be purchased at the docl: or on t'le steamer before sailing (from 6*. or Is. upwards), is a luxury that may almost be called a necessary. This should be distinctly marked with the owner's name or initials, and may be left in charge of the Steamship Co.'s agents until the return-journey. The Ocean Comfort Co., represented on the wharves at Liverpool and New York, lets chairs at $ 1(4*.) for the voyage, and the International Steamship Co. provides its passengers with the same convenience for 2.<. Seats at table, retained throughout the voyage, are usually assigned by the Saloon Steward immediate'^' af- ter starting-, and those who wish seats at a particular table or beside par- ticular persons should apply to him. It is usual to give a fee of 10*. (21/2 dollars) to the table-steward and to the state- room steward, aid small gratuities are alsc) expected by the boot-cleaner, the bath-steward, etc. On arrival atJIontreal. Halifax, or New York, passengers' luggage is ex- amined in a covered hall adjoining the wharf. After the examination the tra- veller may hire a carriage to take himself and his baggage to his destination, or he may send his trunks by a transfer-agent or express man (see p. xviii) and go himself on foot or by tramway. Telegraph messengers and re- presentatives of hotels also meet the steamers. The traveller should know the exact telegraph -rates (comp. pp. xxiii, 7), as mistakes (not to his advantage) sometimea occur. m. Railways. Steamers. Coaches. Railways. The Dominion of Canada now contains about 16,000M. of railway, or nearly as much as the An stro- Hungarian Empire and one-fourth less than the railway mileage of the United Kingdom. Fully two-thirds of the entire amount are in the hands of the Canad- ian Pacific Railway (5534 M. in 1892), the Grand Trunk Railway (3158 M.l, and the Government ri398 M.). The capital invested in railwaysamountedinl892to$84o,000,000(169,000,000i.), of which about 22 per cent had been contributed by state and municipal aid. In the same year the railways carried 13,533,414 passengers and 22,189,923 tons of freight. The total receipts were $51,b85,768, showing a surplus of 29 per cent over operating expenses. The C.P.R. has the largest number of miles in operation, but the G.T.R., which runs through the most populous portions of the Dominion, has the largest traffic. The standard gauge (4 ft. 8^2 in.) is in use by almost all the railways of Canada. The equipments of the Canadian railways are similar to those of the United States lines, which, as is well known, are very different from those of European railways. Instead of comparatively small coaches, divided into ccmpartmenta holding 6-8 people each, the American railways have long cars (like an enlarged tramway-can, holding 60-70 pers., entered by doors at each end, and having a longitudinal passage down the middle, with the seats on each side of it. Each seat has room for two passengers. All long-distance trains are furnished with drawing-room (parlor) cars by day and sleeping-cars at night, which accommodate about 24-30 people in the same space as the ordinary cars, and are in every way much more comfortable. Second-class carriages are much more often provided in Canada than in the United States, and emigrant carriages are also found wM III. RAILWAYS. on some long-di,«tance trains. The secoml-class car.", however, are not recommended, and certainly do not rank higher than the third-class car- riages of Earop)e. Smoking i3 not permitted, except in the cars ^Smokers') specially provided for the purpose and generally found at the forward end cf the train. Smoking-compartments are also usually found in the parlor- cars. The vexed question of whether the American or the European rail- way-carriage Ih the more comfortable is hard to decide. It may be said generally, hov/ever, that the; small-compartment sy-item would never have done for ihe long journeys of America, while the parlor -cars certainly ofler greater comfort in proportion to their expense than the Euntpean first-class carriages do. In comjiaring the ordinary American or Canadian car with the second-class or the best third-clas!< carriages of Europe, some travellers may be inclined to give the prefe-ence for short journeys to the latter. The seats in the American cars offer very limited room for two persons, and their backs are too low to afford any support to the head; a single crying infant or spoiled child annoys 6U-7U persons instead of the few in one compartment; the passenger has little control over his v>indow, as Someone in the car is sure to object if he opens it; the continual open- ing and shutting of the doors, with the consequent draughts, are annoy- ing; the incessant visitation of the train-boy, with his books, candy, and other articles for sale, renders a quiet nap almost impossible; while, in the event of an accident, there are only two exits for 60 people instead of six or eight. On the other hand, the liberty of moving about the car, <»r, in fact, from end to end of the train, the toilette accommodation, and the amusement of watching one's fellow-passengers greatly mitigate the tedium of a long journey; while the public:'*y jirevents any risk of the railway crimes sometimes perpetrated in the separate compartments of the European system. Rugs, as a rule, are not necesscry, as the cars are apt to be over, rather than under, heated. Little accommodation is provided in the way of luggage-racks . so that travellers should reduce their hand- baggage to the smallest possible dimensions. — In the sleeiang-car, the pas.senger engages a Half-Section, consisting of a so-called 'double berth', which, however, is rarely used by more than one person. If desirous of more air and space, he may engage a whole Section (at double the rate of a half-section), but in many cases a passenger is not allowed to mono- polize a whole section to the exclusion of those not otherwise able to find accommodation. Parties of 2-4 may secure Drawing Rooms, or private compartments. A lower berth is genercally considered preferable to an upper berth, as it is easier to get into and commands the window; but, by what seems a somewhat illiberal regulation, the iipper berth is always let down, whether occupied or not, unless the whole section is paid for. So far nothing has been done towards reserving a special part of the car for ladies, except in the shape of a small toilette and dressing room. The so-called Tourist or Colonist Sleeping Cars, found on some lines, may be used with advantage by those to whom economy is important. — Dining Cars are often attached to long-distance trains, and the meals and service upon them are frequently better than those of the railway restaurants. — Tickets are collected in the train by the Conductor (guard), who some- times gives numbered checks in exchange for them. Separate tickets are issued for the seats in parlor-cars and the berths in sleeping-cars ; and such cars generally have special conductors. Fees are never given, except to the coloured Porters of the parlor-cars, who brush the traveller's clothes and (on overnight journeys) boots , and expect about 25 c. a day. In Canada the traveller is left to rely upon his own common sense still more freely than in England , and no attempt is made to take care of him in the patriarchal fashion of European railways. He should, there- fore, be careful to see that he is in his proper car, etc. The conductor calls 'all aboard', when the train is about to start, and on many lines a warning bell is rung. The names of the places passed are not always shown distinctly (sometimes not at all) at the stations, and the brakeman, whose duty it is to announce each station as the train reaches it, is apt to be entirely unintelligible. A special word of caution may be given as to the frequent necessity for crossing the tracks, as the rails are often flush with the floor III. RAILWAYS. xvii of the station and foot -bridges or funnfls are rarely provide.l, Kacb locomotive carries a large bell, which is tolled as it approaches stations or level ('grade') crossings. — The speed of Canadian trains is eeneriilly lower than that of English trains 5 ana over a large jmrtion of the country it does not exceed 20-25 M. per hour even for through-trains. The average rate of Fare may be stated at abont 3 c. per mile, thonch the rate is lower for season, 'commutation' (good for so many trips), or mileage tickets. The extra rate for the palace -oars (i/2-lc. per mile) is low as compared with the ditVcrence between the first and third class fares in England, and the extra comfort afforded is very great. Return-tickets ('exciirsion' or 'round trip' tickets) are usually issued at ronsiderable reduc- tions. The thousand-mile tickets, from which the conductor collects cou- pons representing the number of miles travelled, are a convenient arrange- ment which European railways might do well to introduce. A distinction is frequently made between 'Limited' and 'Unlimited' tickets, the former and cheaper admitting of continuous passage only, without 'stopovers'; and the latter being available until used and admitting of 'stopovers' at any place on the route. — At the /ailway-stations, the place of the first, second, and third class waiting-rooms of f^nrope is taken by a Ladies'' Boom, to which men are also generally admitted if not smoking, and a Men's Room, in which smoking is usually pi'rmitted. Among the American Railwaii Terms with which the traveller should be familiar (in addition to those already incidentally mentioned) are the following. Railroad is generally used instead of railway (the latter term being more often applied to street railways, i.e. tramways), while the word 'Road' alone is often used to mean railroad. The carriages are called Car$. The Conductor is aided by Brakemen, whose duties include attention to the heating and lighting of the cars. A slow train is called an Accom- modation or Way Train. The Ticket Office is never called booking-ofiice. Luggage is Baggage, and is expedited through the Baggage Master (see below). Depot is very commonly used icstead of station, and in many places the latter word, when used alone, means police statinn. Other terms in common use are: turn-ovt = aiding; bumper = Iniffer; 6ox-c«r = closed goods car; caboose = guard's van ; freight-train = goods train ; cars = train ; to pull ont = to start; way station = small, wayside station; cow-catcher = fender in front of engine ; switch -- shunt ; switches = points. The only general railway guide of Canada i^ the International Railway Guide, pub- lished at Montreal monthly (price 25 c), which includes a useful gazetteer of Canadian towns and villages. Local collections of time-tables are everywhere procurable , and those of each railway company may be obtained gratis at the ticket-offices and in hotels. All the more important railway companies publish a mass of 'folders' and descriptive pamphlets, w^hich are distributed gratis and give a great deal of information about the country traversed. These are often very skilfully prepared and well illustrated. Luggage. Each passenger on a Canadian railway is generally entitled to 150 lbs. of luggage ('baggage") free; but overweirrht, unless exorbitant, is seldom charged for. The so-called Check System makes the icnagement of luggage very simple. On arrival at the station, the traveller shows his railway ticket and hands over his impedimenta to the Baggage Master, who fastens a small metal or cardboard tag to each article and gives the passenger similar 'checks' with corresponding numbers. The railway company then becomes responsible for the luggage and holds it until reclaimed at the pas- senger's destination by the presentation of the duplicate check. As the train approaches the larger cities, a Transfer Agent usually walks through the cars, undertaking the delivery of luggage and giving receipts in exchange for the checks. The ctarg°. for this is usually 25 c. per package, and it is thus more economical (though a composition may sonetimes be effected for a number of articles) to have one large trunk instead of two or three smaller ones. The hotel porters who meet the train will also take the traveller's checks and see t'uat his baggage is delivered at the hotel. In starting, the trunks may be sent to the railway station in the same way, either through a transfer agent or the hotel porter; and if the traveller already has his Baedeker's Canada. b xviii IV. PLAN OF TOUR. railway ticket they may he checked through from the iiouse or hotel to his d« stinatitin. Bajigage, unaccompanied by its owner, may be sent to any part of the country by the Expreu Companiu (cnmp. p. '20), which charge in proportion to weight and distance. The drawl>acks to the trans- fer system are tliat the baggage must usually be ready to be called for before the traveller himself requires to start, and that sometimes a little delay may take place in its delivery ; but this may, of course, be avoided by the more expensive plan of using a carriage between the house and railway-station. Steamers. The extensive sy?tem of lakes, navigable rivers, and canals in Canada atfords many opportunities of exchanging the hot and dnsty railway for the cheaper and cooler method of locomotion by water. The steamers of the C.P.R. on the Great Lakes (see p. 180 ) rank with the finest passenger steamers for inland navigation in the world, and the boats of many other companies ( comp. HH. 12, 16, 40, 40 ) afford fairly comfortable accommodation. An entire day on a steamer, including berth and meals, rarely costs more than $ 10 and often costs much less. — For the oceanic steamboat lines connecting Canada with the United States in summer, see R. 4. Coaches. The ordinary tourist will seldom require to avail him- self of the coach-lines of Canada, for which he may be thankful, as the roads are generally rough, the vehicles uncomfortable, and the time slow. The fares are usually moderate. Some of the coach- ing trips in the Far West (comp. p. 220) may, however, be re- commended to those who do not object to rough it a little. Carriages. Carriage- hire is generally considerably lower in Canada than in the United States, and is sometimes distinctly cheap. Fares vary so much, that it is impossible to give aiiy general ap- proximation, but the data throughout the text will give the trav- eller most of the information he requires on this point. When he drives himself in a 'buggy' or other small carriage, the charges are relatively much lower than when he employs a coachman. IV. Plan and Season of Tour. The Plan of Tour must depeud entirely on the traveller's taste and the time he has at his disposal. It is maiilfestly impossible to cover more than a limited section of so vast a territory in an ordinary travelling-season; but the enormous distances are practically much diminished by the comfortable arrangements for travelling at night (comp. p. xvi). Among the grandest natural features of the country, one or other of which should certainly be visited if in any wise practicable, are Niagara Falls (^R. 38), the Canadian Pacific Railway from Banff to Vancouver ( R. 44), and the Saguenay (R. 12). Less imperative than these, but also of great beauty and interest, are the St. Lawrence from Kingston to Montreal (R. 40), the 'Land of Evangeline' (R. 20), the Muskoka District (R. 34), the Great Lakes (R. 39), Lake St. John (R. 11), the St. John River and Grand Falls (RR. 23, 25), and the Bras d'Or Lakes (R. 16). Among cities the romantic 'ancient capital' of Quebec (R. 9) is first in attraction and IV. PLAN OF TOUR. xix should he included in even the most flying visit to Canada; bnt Montreal (R. 6), Toronto (R. 33), Halifax (R. U), and St. John {K '22) are all interesting in their difl'crcnt ways. Ottawa (R, 30), as the capital of the Dominion, should by all means be included when practicable, and Winnipeg (R. 42), the youthful and prosperous capital of the Great North-West , also deserves a visit. The grand trip to Alaska (R. 46), though taking us beyond Canadian territory, forms a natural sequel to the journey across the continent and may be begun at the charming city of Victoria (p. 225). Season. The best months for travelling in Canada are. speaking generally. May, .Tune, September, and October. The winter months have, however, characteristic attractions of their own and for purposes of sport are often, of course, the best (p. liil. With proper equip- ment the traveller will find winter travelling quite pleasant and easy; and, indeed, the only season that is really uncomfortable for the traveller is the thawing spell of early spring. Where the territory inclu'ied is so vast and tiie possible combinations of tours so endless, it may seem almost aseless to attempt to draw up any specimen tours. The following, however, though not intrinsically better than hundreds of others, may serve to give the traveller some idea of the distances to be traversed and of the average expenses of locomotion. It is, perhaps, needless to say tliat the traveller will enjoy himself better if he content himself with a less rapid rate of progress than that here inflicated. A daily outlay of $8-10 will probably cover all the regular travelling-expenses on the under-noted tours; and this rate may be much diminished by longer halts. a. A Week from Montreal. (Railway and Steamer Expenses about $ 20) MontreariJl. 6) IV2 Montreal to Quebec (KR. 8, 9) 2V2 Quebec to Lake St. John (R. il) -^ 1 Lake St. John back to Quebec via the iiaguenay (R. 12) IV2 Quebec back to Montreal (R. 8) _^ 72 7 b. A Fortnight from' Toronto. (Fares $40-45) Toronto (R. 33) 1 Toronto to Niagara by steamer (RR. 36, 38j 3 Niagara to Toronto via Hamilton (R. 86) I'/z Toronto to Montreal by the St. Lawrence (RR. 4U, 6j 21/2 Montreal to Ottawa (RR. 29, 30) IV2 Ottawa to North Bay (R. 41) V2 North Bay to Toronto , with a side-trip into the Muskoka District (R. 34) ._. 3_ 10 c. A Week in the Maritime Provinces. (Fares $ 16-18) Halifax (R. 14) 1 Halifax via the Brc^ d''Or Lakes to Sydney and back (R. IG) . . . . 3 Halifax through the '■Evangeline Country' to Annapolis (R. 20) . . . 1 Annapolis to St. John (RR. 20, 22) iVz 6Va b» V. HOTELS. [Or, instead of the Cape Breton trip, we may af-cend the River St. John to Frederic ton (R. 23^ 1 day) and return to St. John via Si. Andrew* (pp. 32, 33) and R. 26 ; 2 days.] d. Three Weeks from Montreal. (Fares $50) Days Montreal to Quebec, Lake St. John., the Saguenay. and back as above (RH. 6, 8, 9, 11, 12) 7 Montreal to Ottawa, the Muskoka District, and Toronto as above (RR. 29, 30, 41, 34, 33) 6 Toronto to Niagara and back as above (RR. 3ti, 38) X^j-i Toronto to Montreal by the St. Lawrence as above (R. 40) . . . ._^ IV2 19 ' e. Five or Six Weeks from Montreal. (Fares $220-280) Montreal to Quebec, Lake St. John., the Saguenay. and back as above (RR. 6, 8, 9, 11, 12) 7 Montreal to Ottawa (RR. 29, 80) 2 Ottawa to Winnipeg (RR. 41, 42) 3 Winnipeg to Banf (R. 43) 4 Banff to Field (R. 44) 1 Field to Glacier (R. 41) 2 Glacier to Vancouver (II. 44) 1 Vancouver to Victoria and back (R. 45) 3 Vancouver back to Port Arthur (RR. 44, 43, 41) 5 Port Arthur to Owen Sound and Toronto via the Great Lakes (R. 3t)) 3 Toronto to Niagara and back as above (RR. 36,38) 3Vi Toronto to Montreal by the St. Lawrence (R. 40) _; i}^j 36" [Most travellers will prefer to vary their routes across the continent by returning through the United States (see Baedeker's Handbook to the United States). In this case they are advised to omit the portion of the Canadian Pacific Railway between Ottawa and Port Arthur and to reach the latter point via Toronto and Owen Sound (R, 39) ] The Pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of travellers, but there are few districts of Canada where walking tours can be re- commended. Indeed, the extremes of temperature and the scarcity of well-marked footpaihs often offer considerable obstacles, while in the Far West a stranger on foot might be looked upon with suspicion or even be exposed to danger from the herds of semi-wild cattle. For a short tour a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, the articles of the toilet, a light waterproof, and a stout umbrella will generally be found a sufficient equipment. Strong and well-tried boots are essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided; alight pouch or game-bag is far less irksome, and its position may be shifted at pleasure. A more extensive reserve of clothing should not exceed the limits of a small portmanteau , which may be forwarded from town to town by express. V. Hotels and Eestaurants. Hotels. The qucality of the Canadian hotels varies considerably in diiferent localities. The best hotels of Montreal, Quebec, and Toronto, those under the management of the Canadian Pacific Rail- way (at Banff, Vancouver, etc.), and a few at fashionable watering- places (such as St. Andrews and Cacouna) leave little opening for criticism. There are also fair hotels at Ottawa, Halifax, St. John, and some of the other large cities. The hotels in the smaller towns and in the country districts can seldom be classed as good , while V. HOTELS. xxi sometimes (as in Nova Scotia) they are decidedly bad. A distinct process of improvement is, however, per('eptible. The charges are considerably less than those of the hotels of the United States ; the height of $5 a day is reached only in a few instances, and $21/2-3 will probably be found the average rate on an ordirary tour. The comforts often afforded by the smaller and less pretentious inns of the old country can seldom be looked for from Canadian houses of the second or third class, and the traveller who wishes to econom' .e will find boarding-houses (see p. xxii) preferable. Wlien ladies -e of the party, it is advisable to frequent the best hotels only, j no food is generally abundant, but the cuisine and quality vary greatly (comp. p. xxii ). The service is often excellent, and in this respect Canadian hotels are, perhaps, superior, class for class, to those of •the United States, The hotels of Canada are almost entirely managed on the American Plan, in which a fixed charge is made per day for board and lodging. No separate charge is made for service. The rate varies from about §4 (in a few instances $5) per day in the best houses down to $ 1 per day in the smaller towns and country districts. Many of the hotels vary their rate according to the room, and where two prices are mentioned in the Handbook the traveller should indicate the rate he wishes to pay. 3Iost of the objections to rooms on the upper floor are obviated by the ex- cellent service of 'elevators' (lifts). Very large reductions are made by the week or for two persons occupying the same room; and very much higher prices may be paid for extra accommodation. Throughout the Handbook the insertion of a price behind the name of a hotel ($ 4) means its rate on the American plan ; where the hotel is ou the European plan (exclusively or alternatively) the price of the room is indicated (R. from $ 1). The above rates include all the ordinary requirement of hotel life, and no 'extras' appear in the hill. The custom of giving fees to the ser- vants is by no means so general as in Europe, though it is becoming more common in the larger cities. In hotels on the American system the meals are usually served at regular hours (a latitude of about 2 hrs. being allowed for each). The daily charge is considered as made up of four items (room, breakfast, dinner, and supper), and the visitor should see that his bill begins with the first meal he takes. Thus, :'.t a §4 a day house, if the traveller arrives before shipper and leaves after breakfast the next day, his bill will be $ 3 ^ if he arrives after supper and leaves at the same time, $2; and so on. No allowance is made for absence from meals. Dinner is usually served in the middle of the day, except in large cities. On reaching the hotel, the traveller enters the Office, a large and often comfortably fitted-up apartment, used as a general rendezvous and smok- ing-room, not only by the hotel-guests, but often also by local residents. On one side of it is the desk of the Hotel Clerk, who keeps the keys of the bedrooms, supplies unlimited letter-paper gratis, and is supposed to be more or less omniscient on all points on which the traveller is likely to require information. Here the visitor enters his name in the 'register' kept for the purpose, and has his room assigned to him by the clerk, who details a 'bell-boy' to show him the way to his room and carry up his hand-baggage. If he has not already disposed of his 'baggage-checks' in the way described at p. xvii, he shotild now give them to the clerk and ask to have his trunks fetched from the station and sent up to his room. If he has already parted with his checks, he identifies his baggage in the hall when it arrives and tells the head-porter what room he wishes it sent to. On entering the dining-room the visitor is shown to his seat by the head-waiter, instead of selecting the first vacant seat that suits his fancy. The table-waiter then bands the guest the menu of the day, from xxii VI. POST AND TELEGRAPH. which (in hotels on the American plan) he orders what he chooses. The key of the bedroom should always be left at the office when the visitor goes out. Large hotels generally contain a barber's shop (shave 20-25 c; elsewhere l-80, 40c.; $80- 100, 50c. Foreign Money Orders cost 10c. for each S 10, the limit being $50. In 1892 the number of letters transmitted bv the Post Office was 102,850,000, of post-cards 20.815,000, and of all other packages 100,764,00). Telegraph Offices. The telegraph business of Canada to the W. of (^Miebec is mainly in the hands of the Great North-Western Tele- graph Co. and the Canadian Pacific Railway Co., while the Maritime Provinces are served by the Western Union Telegraph Co. of New York. In 1892 the Dominion contained 30,840 M. of line and 68,900 M. of wire, while the number of despatches was 4.614,944. The rates witliin the Dominion vary from 25 c. to $ 1 per 10 words, and to the United States from 40c. per 10 words upwards. The rate to the United Kingdom is 25c. per word. — The Bell Telephone Co. of Montreal has about 33,000 M. of wire in Ontario, Quebec, and Manitoba; and other companies serve the Maritime Provinces and British Columbia. VII. Chief Dates in Canadian History, i 1492. Columbus discovers the islands of America. 1497. Cabot discovers the mainland. 1517. Cabot visits Hudson Bay. 1534, Jacques Carlier enters the Baie des Chaleurs (p. 67). 1535. Cartier ascends the St. Lawrence (pp. 39). 1541-43. First unsuccessful attempts at settlement (p. 39). 1598. Forty convicts left by the Marquis de la Roche on Sable Island-, only twelve found alive at the end of Ave years. 1603. First visit of Samuel de Champtain (p. 39). 1605. Port Royal (Annapolis) founded by the Baron de Poutrin- court (p. 121). 1608. Second visit of Champlain. Foundation of Quebec, the first permanent settlement of Canada (p. 39). 1613. Foundation of St, John's^ Newfoundland (p. 106). 1622. Jesuits arrive at Quebec. 1629. Quebec taken by the English (p. 39). i This list is largely based on that in the Statistical Year-Book of Canada (1893). xxiv VII. HISTORY. - 1632. Canada and Acadia restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germaia-en-Laye. 1642. Ville Marie (Montreal) founded by Maisonneuve (p. 21). 1654. Acadia taken by the English. 1667. Acadia restored to France. 1670. Hudson Bay Co. fouiided (p. 196). 1672. Frontenac appointed Governor of Canada or New France ("white population about 6700). 1689. Massacre of Lachine (p. 187). 1690. Sir Wm. Phipps captures Port Royal and makes an un- successful attack on Quebe<-. 1713. Acadia (Nova Scotia), Hudson Bay Territory, and New- foundland given to England by the Treaty of Utrecht. 1739. Population of New France 42,700. 1745. Louisbourg taken by the New Englanders. 1748. Louisbourg restored to the French in exchange for Madras by the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle. 1749. Halifax founded (p. 76). 1755. Expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia (p. 119). 1758. Louisbourg captured by the English for the second time. 1759. Fort Niagara taken by Gen. Prideaux (July 26th). — Wolfe wins the Battle of the Plains of Abraham and captures Quebec (pp. 39, 45: Sept. 12-18th). 1760. Canada (pop. 70,000) surrendered to the British. 1763. Formal cession of 'Canada with all its dependencies' to Great Britain, by t.ie Treaty of Paris. 1766. Gen. Sir Guy Carleton (afterwards Lord Dorchester) ap- pointed Governor-General. 1768. Prince Edward Island made a separate province (p. 95). 1774. Passage of the 'Quebec Act\ giving the French Canadians the free exercise of the Roman Catholic religion and the protection of their own civil laws and customs and provid- ing for the administration of the criminal law as used in England and for the appointment of a Legislative Council by the Crown. 1775. Outbreak of the American Revolution and invasion of Canada by the Americans; capture of Montreal (p. 22) and unsuccessful attack on Quebec (p. 39). 1776. Americans driven out of Canada. , 1783. Second Treaty of Paris and delinition of the frontier be- tween Canada and the United States. Foundation of St. John by the United Empire Loyalists (p. 125). The population of Canada at this time, including the Mar- itime Provinces, was about 165,000. It has been estimated that about 40,U00 United Empire Loyalists — i.e. inhabitants of the United States who remained loyal to the British Crown — mi- S grated into Canada within a few years after the second Treaty of Paris (comp. pp. 125, 31, 154). VII. HISTORY. XXV 1784. Xew Brunswick made a separate province (p. 133). 1791. Passage of ^Canadian Act\ Canada or Qiie>>ec divided into the two provinces of Upper and Lower Canada. 1792. First meeting of the parliaments of Upper Canada (at Newark or Niagara^ p. 107 I and Lower Canada (at Quebec), 1793. Slavery abolislied in Upper Canada. 1796. Toronto (York), founded in 1794, is made capital of Upper Canada. 1806. Population of Upper Canada 70,718; of Lower Canada 250,000. 1812. War between Great Britain and the United States. Detroit captured by the Canadians ( Ar.g.llth). — Battle of Queens- ton Heights (Oct. I3th; p. 168). 1813. York (Toronto) captured and burned by the Americans (April 25th ). — Battles of Stony Creek (June 5th ; p. 169), Moraviantown { Sept.), Chateaugay (Oi^t. 26th), and Chrys- ler s Farm (Nov. ll'h). 1814. Americans defeated at Lundy's Lane (July 25th ; p. 178). — War ended by the Treaty of Ghent (Dec. 24th). — Pop. of Upper Canada 95,000, of Lower Canada 335, '^00. 1818. London Convention^ regulating the rights of Americans in the British North American Fislieries. 1831. Pop. of Upper Cr.uada 236.702; of Lower Canada 553,134. 1836. Opening of tlie first railway in Canada (p. 22). 1837-38. Canadian Rebellion (Wm. Lyon Mackenzie; Papineau; comp. pp. 149, 179, 155). 1838. Lord Durham, appointed Governor -General and High- Commissioner of Canada, prepares an important Report on the Canadian situation, recommending, inter alia, a Federal Union of all the Provinces. 1841. Union of Upper and Lower Canada under the name of the Province of Canada, and establishment of responsible government ( comp. p.xxvii). — First jointParliament meets at Kingston (June 13th). — Pop. of Upper Canada 455,000; ot Lower Canada 690,000. 1849. Riots in Montreal over the passage of the Rebellion Losses Bill; Parliament House burned. 1851. Pop. of Upper Canada 952,004; of Lower Canada 890,261; of New Brunswick 193,800; of Nova Scotia 276,854. 1852. Commencement of the Grand Trunk Railway. 1854. Reciprocity Treaty with the United States (to last ten years). 1858. Ottawa made the capital of Canada. — Decimal system of currency adopted. 1861. Pop. of Tapper Canada 1,396,091; of Lower Canada 1,111,566; of New Brunswick 252,147; of Nova Scotia 330,857; of Prince Edward Island 80,857. 1866. Fenian invasion of Canada. ixvi VIII. CONSTITUTION. 1867. The British North America Act passed "by the Imperial Legislature, effecting a union of the provinces of Canada, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick under the name of the Dominion of Canada. The names of Upper and Lower Canada are changed to Ontario and Quebec, Lord Monck is tirst Governor- General of the Dominion 5 Sir John A. Macdonald (d. 1891), first Premier. 1868. North- West Territories acquired by the Dominio;i. 1869-70. lied River Rebellion {^. 196). 1870. Province of Manitoba admitted to the Confederation. 1871. Treaty of Washington (May 8th ). — British Columbia joins the Confederation. — Total population of the Dominion 3.635,000. 1873. Prince Edward Island joins the Confederation. 1876. Intercolonial Railway opened from Quebec to Halifax. 1879, Adoption of a protective tariff. 1881. Pop. of the Dominion 4,324,810. 1885. Second Riel Rebellion (p. 201), — Canadian Pacific Rail- way across the continent completed. 1886, First through-train for the Paciiic leaves Montreal on June 2t stated, was a subsequent creation — and the old colony of British Columbia, on the Pacific Coast) were in the possession of a com- plete system of parliamentary government, in all essential respects a traTiscript of the British system. Each province was governed by a Lieutenant-Governor, a Legislature of two Houses, and ai\ Exe- cutive CouTicil , whose members continueil in office only as long as they possessed the support of the majority in the People's House. They had for ypars possessed complete control of their local and provincial affrars , subject only to the sovereignty of the Imperial State. In all the provinces the criminal law and the judicial system of England prevailed. The common law of England was also the basis of the jurisprudence of all the provinces, except Quebec, where a million and a quarter of French Canadian people were and are still speaking the French language, professing the Roman Catholic religion, and adhering to the Coutume de Paris and the general prin- ciples of the civil law, as they obtained it from their ancestors, who first settled the province of Canada. Accordingly, when the terms of Union came to be arranged in 1864 by delegates from the several provinces of British North America, it was found necessary to estab- lish a federation bearing many analogies to that of the United States, in order to meet the wishes of the people of these provinces, especially of French Canada, and to preserve all those local institu- tions, with whii^h the people had long been familiar, and which they could not be induced, under any circumstances, to hand over to the sole control of one central Parliament. The resolutions of the Quebec conference were embodied in addresses of the several Legislatures of the provinces to the Imperial Parliament. These resulted in the passing of the British North America Act of 1867, now the funda- mental law of the whole Dominion , setting forth the territorial di- visions, defining the nature of the executive authority , regulating the division of powers , directing to what authorities these powers are to be confided , and providing generally for the administration and management of all those matters which fall within the respec- tive jurisdictions of the Dominion and the Provinces. In accordance with this constitution, Canada has now control of the government of the vast territory stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific to the N, of the United States, and is subject only to the sover- eignty of the Queen and the Parliament of Great Britain in such matters as naturally fall under the jurisdiction of the supreme and absolute authority of the soyereign State. xxviii Vlir. CONSTITUTION. If we coQie to recapitulate the various constitutional authorities which now govern the Don»iniun in its external aiul internal rela- tions as a dependency of the Crown , we find that they may be di- vided for ireneral jnirposes as follows: The Queen. The Parliament of Great llritain. The Judicial Comniittee of the Privy Council. The Government of the Dominion. The Governments of the Provinces. The Courts ot Canada. While Canada can legislate practically without limitation in all tliose matters which do not affect Imperial interests, yet sovereign power, in the legal sense of the {)hrase, rests with the government of Great I'ritain. Canada cannot of her own motion negotiatt; trea- ties with a foreign State, as that is a power only to he exercised by the sovereign authority of the Empire. In accordance, however, with the policy pursued for many years towards self-governing dependencies — a jiolicy now practi<:ally among the 'conventions' of the constitution — it is usual for the Imperial Government to give ail the necessary authority to distinguished Canadian statesmen to represent the Dominion interests in any conference or negotia- tions affectiiig its commercial or territorial interests. The control over peace and war still necessarily remains under the direct and absolute direction of tlieQuein and her greatCouncil. The appoint- ment of the Governor-General, without any interference on the part of the Canadian Gnvernment, rests absolutely with the Queen's Govern- ment, l he same sovereign authority may 'disallow' any Act passed by the Parliament of Canada wiiich may be repugnant to any Im- perial legislation on the same subject applying dire<-tly to the Do- minion, or which may touch the relations of Great I'ritain with foreiiin Powers, or otherwise seriously affect the interests of the Imperial State. The Judicial Committee of the Qucsens Privy Council is ti\e Court of last resort for Canada as for all other parts of the British em{)ire, although that jurisdiction is only exercised within certain limitations consistent with the large measure of legal independence granted to the Dominion. As it is from the Parliament of Great Britain that Canada has derived her constitution, so it is only through the agency of the same sovereign authority that any amendment can be made to that instrument. The Preamble of the British North Aujerica Act, 1867, sets forth that the provinces are 'federally united', with a constitution 'similar in principle to that of the United Kingdom'. The model taken by Canadian stattssmen was almost necessarily that of the United States, the most perfect example of federation that the world has yet seen, though they endeavoured to avoid its weaknesses in certain essential respects. At the same time, in addition to the general character of the provincial organizations and distribution of powers, and other Vni. CONSTITUTION. xx\x Important feattires of a federal system, there are the methods of pov- eriiinent. which are copies, exact copies in somt' respects, of the Parliamentary Government of England. We st-e this in the clauses of the British Nortli Ajiierica Act referring to the excnitive authority, the establisliment of a Privy Coiiricil. and the constitution of the two Houses of the Dominion Parliament. More tlian ihat . we have, in conjunction with the legal provisions of the British North America Act, a great body of unwritten h.w ; that is to say, that mass of 'con- ventions', uniierstandings, and usages which havt^ been long in practical operation in F.nglanil and govern tht relations between tlie Crown and its ad ise/s. tlie position of tlsc Ministry and its d( pcn- dence on the Legislature, and otherwise contrcd and modify the conditions of a systt;m of English Parliamentary government. The various authorities uniler which the government of the Pominion is carried on may be defined as follows: — 1. The O'ue^'n, in wh(»m is legally invested the executive author- ity 5 in whose name all comniissiortf to office run; by wliose autlior- ity parliament is called together and dissolved ; and in whose name bills are assented to and reserved. She is represented f(tr all pur- poses of government by a (forernor- General . appointed by Ifer Majesty in Council and holding office during pleasure; responsible to the Imperial (Jovernment as an Imperial Officer; having the right of pardon for all offences, but exercising this and all executive pow- ers under the advice and consent of a responsible ministry. 2. A Ministry composed of thirteen or more mtmbers of a Pr'ny Council; having seats in the two Houses of Parliament; holding office only whilst in a majority in the popular branch ; acting as a council of advice to the Governor-General . responsible to parliament for all legislation and administration. 3. A Senate composed of seventy-eight members appointed by the Crown for life, though removable by the House itself for bank- ruptcy or crime; having co-ordinate powers of legislation with the House of Commons, except in the case of money or tax bills, which it can neither initiate^ nor amend; having no power to try im- peachments ; having the same privileges, immunities, and powers as the English House of Commons when defined by law. 4. A House of Commons of two hundred and fifteen members, elected for five years on a very liberal Dominion Franchise in elec- toral districts fixed by law in each province; liable to be prorogued and dissolved at any time by th(^ Governor-General on the advice of the Council; having alone the right to initiate money or tax bills; having the same privileges, imnmnities and powers as the English House of Commons when defliied by law. 5. A I fominion Judiciary composed of a Supreme Court of a chief justice and five puisne judges, acting as a Court of Appeal f . all the Provincial Courts; subject to have its decisions reviewed on Appeal by the Judicial Committee of the Queen's Privy Council in XXX VIII. CONSTITUTION. Englanfl j its judges being irremovable except for cause, on the ad- dress of the two Houses to the Governor-General. The several authorities of government In the Provinces may be briefly described as follows : — 1. A Lieutenant-Governor appointed by the Governor-General in Council, practically for five years ; removable by the same author- ity for cause ; exercising all the powers and responsibilities of the head of an executive, under a system of parliamentary government ; having no right to reprieve or pardon criminals. 2. An Executive Council in each proNince, composed of certain heads of departments, varying from five to twelve in number ; called to office by the Lieutenant-Governor; having seats in either branch of the local legislature; holding their positions as long as they re- tain vhe confidence of the majority of the people's representatives ; responsible for and directing legislation; conducting generally the adn^Miistration of public affairs in accordance with the law and the conventions of the constitution. 3. A Legishdure composed of two Houses — a Legislative Coun- cil and an Assembly — in two provinces, and of only an Assembly or elected House in the other pro\incts. The Legislative Council- lors are appointed for life, by the Lieutenant-Governor in Council, and are removable for the same reasons as Senators; cannot initiate money or tax bills , but otherwise have all powers of legislation ; cannot sit as Courts of Impeachment. The Legislative Assemblies are elected for four years in all cases, except in Quebec, where the term is five; liable to be dissolved at any time by the Lieutenant- Governor, acting under the advice of his Council; elected on man- hood suffrage in Ontario and Prince Edward Island, and on a scarce- ly less liberal franchise in the other sections. 4. A Judiciary in each of the provinces, appointed by the Gov- ernor-General in Council; removable only on the address of the two Houses of the Dominion Parliament. As regards the territories of the North-West, it is provided by the British North America Act that the Dominion is to exercise complete legislative control. As previously stated, they have been divided into five districts for purposes of government. Keewatin is under the control of the Government of Manitoba, but only until the question of boundaries will be finally settled. The other districts are governed by a Lieutenant-Governor and an Assembly elected by the people in accordance with the statutes passed by the Dominion Parliament. The Lieutenant-Governor is appointed by the Gov- ernor in Council , and holds office on the same tenure as the same officials in the provinces; and while responsible government in the complete sense of the term does not yet exist in the territories, the Lieutenant-Governor has the assistance of an advisory Council selected trom the majority in the assembly. The Territories are represented both in the Senate and House of Commons of Canada. VIIT. CONSTITUTION. xxxi Coming now to the distribution of powers between the Dominion and Provincial authorities, we find that they are enumerated in sections 91, 9*2, 93, and 95 of the fundamental law. The 9ist sec- tion p;ives exclusive jurisdiction to the Parliament of the Dominion over all matters of a general or Dominion character, and section 9'2 sets forth the exclusive powers of the provincial organizations. The classes of subjects to which the exclusive authority of the Do- minion Parliament extends are enumerated as follows in the Act: — The public debt and property. The regulation of trade and commerce. The raising of money by any mode or system of taxa- tion. The borrowing of money on public credit. Postal service. Census and statistics. Militia, military, and naval service and de- fence. The fixing of and providing for the salaries and allowances of civil and other officers of the Government of Canada. r)eacons, buoys, lighthouses, and Sable Island, Navigation and shipping. Quarantine and the establishment and maintenance of marine hospi- tals. Sea-coast and inland fisheries. Ferries between a province .nd a Britisli or foreign country , or between two provinces. Cur- rency and coinage. Banking, incorporation of banks, and the issue of paper-money. Savings-banks. Sv^eights and measures. Pdlls of exchange and promissory notes. Interest. Legal tender. Bank- ruptcy and insolvency. Patents of invention and discovery ; copy- rights. Indians and lands reserved for the Indians. Naturalisation and aliens. Marriage and divorce. The criminal law, except the constitution of the Courts of Criminal jurisdiction , but including the procedure in criminal matters. The establishment, mainte- nance, and management of penitentiaries; and lastly, 'such classes of subjects as are expressly excepted in the enumeration of the subjects assigned by the Act exclusively to the Legislature of the provinces'. On the other hand, the exclusive powers of the provincial legis- latures extend to the followiu- classes of subjects: — The amendment from time to time , notwithstanding anything in the Act, of the constitution of the province , except as regards the office of Lieutenant-Governor. Direct taxation within the pro- vince in order to the raising of a revenue for provincia purposes. The borrowing of money on the sole credit of the province. The establishment and tenure of provincial offices and appointment and payment of provincial officers. The management and sale of the public lands belonging to the province, and of the timber and wood thereon. The establishment, maintenance, and management of public and reformatory prisons in and for the province. The establishment, maintenance, and management of hospitals, asylums, charities, and eleemosynary institutions in and for the provinces other than ma- rine hospitals. Municipal institutions in the province. Shop, sa- loon, tavern, and auctioneer and other licenses , in order to the xxxii VIII. CONSTITUTION. raising of a revenue for provincial , local, or municipal purposes. Local works and undertakings other than such as are of the follow- ing «'laritish Columbia, excellent bituminous coals of the same age are worked on Vancouver Island (output in 1892, 803, 242 tons). Fuels of the same kind occur in the Queen Charlotte Islands, where anthracite is also found, but these have not as yet been utilized. In the inland portions of this province, both bituminous coals and lig- nites are represented, but have so far been worked only in a small way for local uses. The lignites of British Columbia are of Ter- tiary age. It will be observed that both coasts of Canada are well supplied with coal, where it offers itself readily to commercial purposes and facilitates communication by sea. The whole coal- and lignite-bear- ing area of Canada which has already been approximately defined has been estimated at about 97,000 sq. M. Iron Ores are found in abundance and of many different kinds. They are worked to a limited extent in Nova Scotia, Quebec, On- tario, and on the coast of British Columbia. Ores of Copper and Lead are also widely distributed. Gold is worked somewhat exten- sively in British Columbia and in Nova Scotia; in the first-named province at present chiefly by alluvial or 'placer' methods of mining, in the second entirely by the mining and crushing of auriferous quartz veins. Gold workings of local importance also occur in parts of Quebec and Ontario, and along soms of the rivers of the North- West Territory. Silver^ in greater or less quantity, is very generally associated with the ores of lead, but Thunder Bay, on Lake Superior, is the centre of an important silver-mining industry; while during the last few years, many silver deposits of great extent and richness GEOLOGICAL SKETCH. xliii have been discovered in British Columbia, particularly in the Koo- tanie district. Without endeavouring" to enumerate the many mineral products of minor importance, the following, which have already attracted considerable attention commercially, and which in some instances occur in Canada under peculiar conditions, may be specially alluded to: — Nickel. Large deposits of ni< kelifiTOUs pyrrhotite are worked in the Sudbury district, to the N. of Lake Huron, — Asbestos. Ex- tensively worked in the townships of Thetford, Coleraine, and Dan- ville, Quebec. — Apatite (Phosphate) and Mica. Worked particu- larly in the County of Ottawa and its vicinity, to the N. of the river of the same name, in the Province of Quebec. — Plumbago or Gra- phite. W'idely distributed; but the most important known deposits are those found in the region last referred to and in the same rocks of the Laurentian system. — Salt. Obtained from bored wells, in the form of brine, ia the W. part of the Ontario peninsula. — Gyp- sum.. Occurring in great abundance in Nova Scotia and New Brun- swick, and also in parts of the Ontario peninsula. It is worked in all three provinces. — Platinum. Found in alluvial deposits in association with gold in certain districts in I'ritish Columbia. The qtiantity so far obtained amounts to only a few thousand ounces annu- ally, but it is greater than that produced elsewhere on the continent. Structural materials, inrlnding Building Stones of all kinds, Slate.1 Clay suitable for brick-making, etc., are abundant, and their production annually represents an important part of the total mineral product of the country. It is not possible here even to designate the many varieties met with, the purposes to which they are applied, or the particular localities from which they come. Marbles, serpent- ines, granites, and other crystalline rocks afford many ornamental stones suitable for architectural uses. Climate. The climate of Canada as a whole is of the 'Conti- nental' type , with strongly contrasted temperatures between the summer and winter months ; the only notable exception to this being found in a comparatively narrow strip along the Pacific coast, to the W. of the Coast Ranges of British Columbia. That part of Canada which has already been referred to for convenience as the E. division or region, is everywhere characterized by hot summers, with cold winters, during which snow lies upon the ground continu- ously for several months and most of the rivers and lakes are ice- bound. St. Johns (Newfoundland). Halifax (Nova Scotial, and St. John (New Brunswick) are the principal ports on the Atlantic side which remain open to commerce throughout the year. The rainfall of all this region is seasonable and ample from the point of view of agriculture. The moisture-bearing winds come chiefly from the S.E., while in winter, cold dry winds from the N.W. are characteristic. The central region, being furthest from the influence of any sea, presents the greatest range of temperature as between the summer xUv IX. GEOGRAPHICAL AND and winter months, tlie difference between the means of these sea- sons often amounting to about 70° Fahr. As already stated , the rainfall is here (comparatively light, particularly in the S. portion of the great plain. To this central region, the greater part of the Cordilleran belt may, in respect to ••limate, be attached; for though not far distant from tlie Pacific, the humid winds arriving from that ocean are effectively barred out or deprived of their moisture by the continuous elevations of the Coast Ilange. In the Cordilleran country, however, the bold topographical features cause the climate to vary much as butween places not far removed and the conditions do not thus possess the uniformity of those of the great plains, and in the lower valleys the summer is longer and much less severe than is the case on the plains. The territory which borders on the Pacific has, as already indi- cated, an oceanic climate with small range in temperature and very copious precipitation, ^.articularly in the autumn and winter months. At Victoria, situated on the S. end of Vancouver Island, the climate much resembles that of the S, of England. Snow seldom lies upon the ground for more than a few days in winter, while in some sea- sons hardy plants continue to bloom throughout the winter, and the thermometer has scarcely ever been known to touch zero of Fahrenheit. What has been said above of the climate of Canada refers to the S. and inhabited part of the great area of the Dominion. Far to the N., Arctic conditions prevail — a rigorous winter of extreme length with a short but warm summer. A noteworthy difference exists between the E. and W. parts of Canada in corresponding latitudes. Places on the E. or Atlantic coast have much lower mean temperatures than those found in the same degree of latitude in Europe; while on the Pacific coast, the conditions are more nearly like those of Europe and again very dif- ferent from those of the Atlantic coast. The causes of these differ- ences are rather complicated. They depend in part on the direction of the prevailing winds, in part on the circumstance that while the E. coast of North America is chilled by a cold Arctic current, the temperature of the W. sea is maintained above the normal by a warm current, flowing past Japan and making the circuit of the North Pacific. The result of these combined conditions is, however, important, for while in the E. the agriculturally valuable part ot the country is somewhat strictly limited to the N., it becomes ex- tremely wide in the W. ; rendering it pretty evident to the specu- lative geographer, that when the country shall have become fully peopled in accordance with its natural capabilities, the greater part of its population will lie to the W. of its central line. In this re- spect Canada differs from the United States , in which the natural conditions seem to imply that the balance of population will con- tinue to be in favour of that part of the continent to the E. of its central line. GEOLOGICAL SKETCH. %kw From the description given above, it will be obvious that Ca- nada is separable, by physical and climatic rondltlons, into regions v^hich run approximately N. and S., with the general trend of the North American continent. The line of division between Canariti>b Columbia were exceedingly remote from the older and more thi'kly peopled provinces of the East. They were rea'-hed with difficulty, and the means of trans- porting the products of the interior to the markets of the world were primitive or absent. The great area of prairie land, so eminently adapted to the jrrowth of grain and the sustenance of domestic ani- mals, necessarily lay fallow; while, with the exception of gold ob- tained from the superficial deposits and beds of streams and coal adjacent to the coast, the mineral wealth of British Columbia re- mained unknown or unworked. All this is now in process of change. The vast fertile area of the interior of the continent is beinir peo- pled by immigrants from Europe, from the E. provinces of Canada itself, and from the United ^States, the Government and the railway companies offeriuir every inducement to the intending settler. The export of wheat, cattle, and other agricultural products from Mani- toba and the North-West is already large and is yearly growing in importance, and before many years, the last region of North Amerjca where free grants of land suitable for the growth of wheat can be obtained, will be owned and occupied throughout. In the broken countries of British Columbia, the 'prospector' pursues his search for ores even in the farthest recesses of the mountains, and in the vicin- ity of the railway numerous mining- enterprises are already in course of establishment. To the immigrant unskilled in niinins or other special pursuits, but not afraid of hard work, the farming and 'ranching' lands of the North-West are the most attractive. It cannot be denied that many difficulties have to be faced by a newcomer, particularly if ignorant of the methods of farming usually practised in Canada ; but the con- tinued increase of the settled area from year to year affords the best evidence of general success. By those accustomed to agricul- ture and with a certain amount of capital, lands already under cul- tivation may often be purchased in the E. provinces of the Domi- nion at moderate rates, and the difficulties of a first establishment on new land thus obviated. - 4. xlvl IX. GEOGRAPHICAL AND Native Baces. The native races of North America are generally referred to as Indians, a misnomer of early date which it is now impossible to eradicate. Thtse people had, before the date of the discovery of the New World by (civilized man, penetrated to and occupied every part of the continent; but where the natural resources available *o them were small, the population remained exceedingly scanty, and a few families often required a vast tract of country for their support by the rude methods of hunting and fishing which, as a rule, were alone known to them. Within the limits of Canada no architectural monuments are met with resembling those remaining in Mexico, Central America, and Peru , as the result of the labour of the half-civili/.ed races of these regions. A few burial mounds, an occasional surviving outline of some fortified work, with graves and scattered implements of stone or bone, constitute the trace? of all former generations of the aborigines. In parts of the provinces of Ontario and Quebec, some rude agriculture was attempted by tlie natives even in prehistoric times, while on the W. coast sub- stantial wooden lodges were built and a rudimentary form of art was manifested in the design of tools and implements and in carvings in wood. Elsewhere ilc inhabitants were little removed from the plane of savagery. The conditions of life were hard, and the cir- cumstances for the development of a better constituted society were wanting. Wars and midnijrht forays between adjacent tribes make up such legendary history as has survived, and in the absence of any means of <;hronicling events, history even of this kind soon lapsed into mythology. The Indians were divided into almost innumerable tribes, with distinctive names; but by means of a study of their language it becomes possible to unite many of these under wider groups, which the tribal units would not themselves have recognised. Of these groups the Eskimo are the most northern and in many respects the most homogeneous. They held and still hold the whole Ajctic littoral from Labrador to Behring bea, but never spread far inland. To the S. of the Eskimo two great races divided between them the greater part of Canada ; the Algonkin and the Tinneh or Athabascan. The Algonkin peoples occupied a vast tract extending from the Atlantic coast to a line drawn from the mouth of the Churchill River on Hudson Bay in a S.W. direction to the Rocky Mountains. Of this stock were the Micmacs and Malicetes (or Maliseets) of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick , the Abenakis , the Montagnais of the lands to the N. of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Ottawas, the Ojibways to the N. of the Great Lakes, and the Crees, in part in- habiting the great prairies and in part the adjacent woodlands to the N. The Blackfoot tribes of the extreme W. plains are also at- tached by language to the Algonkin race. To the N.W., the Tinneh peopled the entire inland region of the continent, including the GEOL')GICAL SKETCH. xlvii Mackenzie valley and that of the Yukon. Among their numerous tribal divisions may be mentioned the Beavers^ Loucheux, Kutchin, Siccanies, and Takullies. Both the Algonkins and the Tiniieli or Athabascans were hunt- ers and fisherman , often roaming over vast distances in search of 'jod and skins , and they e main home was to the S. of the 49th parallel, spread to the N., with their offshoot the Assi- niboines or Stoneys, over a part of the Canadian great plains. The S. part of British Columbia was chiefly occupied by tribes now classified as belonging to the Salish stock, including the Shus- waps^ LiUooets^ Okanagans, and oi:hers. Theso tribes marched to the N. with the Chilcotins and Takullies of Tinneh affiliation. In the S.E. corner of British Columbia the Kootanies appear to form a distinct linguistic division; while on the Pacific coast several different languages were spoken , and such maritime tribes as the Haida, Tshimsian, Aht, and Kwakiool are found. As progressing settlement and the borders of civilization have encroached on the native tribes, these have been f^-om time to time granted reservations, and arrangements have been come to with them by which they abandoned their claims to their wide hunting-grounds. The compacts thus entered into with the Canadian Indians have been observed, and since the early days of the French occupation there has been scarcely any active hostility between the whites and these people. In the E. part of Canada some bands of the Indians have now settled upon the land, others find a more congenial occupation of a nomadic character as voyageurs. or lead a gipsy-like existence and make a living by manufacturing bark canoes , snow-shoes , mocca- sins, baskets, and such like articlpf:. A certain number still retain their character as hunters and trappers in the N. wilderness; but those which are likely to be seen by the traveller have, by the ad- mixture of white blood , ceased to present in any notable degree their original characteristics. To meet with the Indian more nearly in his native state, one must go to Manitoba, the North- West Ter- ritories, or British Columbia. On the plains of the N.W., the extinction of the buffalo has xlviii IX. GEOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. within a few years deprived the native races of practically their whole means of subsistence, and the Government has been obliged to provide them with food and clothing, though on certain reserv- ations they are already taking to agricnllural pursuits with more suc- cess than might have been argued from their original desultory mode of life. In the S. part of British Columbia the Indians are in some places proving to be industrious and capable of maintaining them- selves in various ways. Upon the coast of the same province, the native flshermen , where the circumstances are favourable, readily adopt any mode of life by which a fair remuneration for their labour can be obtained. They are largely employed in salmon canneries, in saw-mills, and in the fur-seal fishery, though in some of their more remote villages they still remain much in their pristine state. In the far N., the natives generally maintain their old habits , and though supplied with many of the manufactured products of civili- zation, they remain hunters, and depend for the means of purchas- ing commodities which they have now learned to prize upon the sale of peltries. These Indians , with a large part of the Eskimo, may be regarded as dependents on the Hu Ison's Bay Company, which to them represents Providence. It is now known that many of the estimates made at various times of the Indian population have been greatly exaggerated, but it is impossible to state even approximately what their number may have been at the time of tl,e discovery of the continent. In most regions they have undoubtedly diminished very materially, but in some places the enum.erations made in late years show a stationary condition and in a few cases an actual increase. It would thus appear, that though in certain districts the aborigines may lose their identity by blending with the white population, they are not likely in Canada to disappear or become extinct. There are many avocations to which their habits and mode of thought peculiarly adapt them, and Canada includes a great area in which the lore of the Indians is likely to remain for all time the greatest wisdom. The total number of Indians now includeil within the boundaries of the Dominion is estimated at about 125,000. X. Sports and Fastimes. By . . W. H. Fuller and E. T. D. Chambers. Fishing. The Dominion of Canada may be justly regarded as the Paradise of the angler. Landing at the historic city of Quebec in the spring or early summer, the lover of Isaa(; Walton's gentle art will find himself within easy distance of hundreds of limpid lakes, varying from a few acres to miles in extent, set like gems in the midst of forests as yet hardly touched by the axe. and teeming with speckled trout, lake trout, and black bass, of a rapacity and size to X SPORTS AND PASTIMES. xlix tlirill with joy the heart of the angler accustomed only to the shy and puny denizens of English streams. Most of thfese lakes are free to all-comers, but a few of the most easily accessible are in the hands of private parties who have formed tishiiig-clubs, erected club-houses, and make a faint pretence of preserving the waters. The tourist, with any ordinary letters of introdu(;tion, will find no difficulty in obtaining permission to fish these lakes, the hospitality of Canadians in this regard being proverbial. Should, however, the visitor prefer to taste the delights of the wild wood unfettered by the restraints of - vilisation, he m?y en- gage a couple of guides, provide himself with a tent, a bircb-bark canoe, and a few simple cooking-utensils, and in a few hours find himself encamped beneath the shade of the 'forest primjevaV, ap- parently as far removed from the trammels of society as though he were in the interior of the 'Dark Continent'. The cost of snch a trip will, of course, vary according to the requirements of the tour- ist, but it may be kept within very moderate limits. The wages of the guides will be from $l.r)0 to $'2 per day. A birch-bark canoe of the requisite size can be bought for about $20 and should be readily resold .or about half its original cost; but, if preferred, the guides will provide this, as well as a tent, charging a moderate sum for their use during the trip. Cooking-utensils, including the indispensable frying-pan, which plays so important a part in Ca- nadian forest cookery, will cost only a trifle; while for provisions the true woodsman will content himself with a flitch of bacon, a few pieces of fat salt pork, and such a supply of canned vegetables and fruit as his tastes and the length of his stay may call for. These, supplemented by the product of his rod and line, should amply suffice for the needs of a genuine sportsman, and as there will probably be a few scattered settlers in the vicinity of his camping ground from whom eggs, milk, potatoes, and, occasionally, butter may be procured, all the reasonable requirements of the inner man will be fully satisfied. He should, hovewer, be careful to furnish himself with a mosquito net for protection at night against the assaults of these little winged pests, which otherwise would prove a serious drawback to his enjoyment. The fishing for Trout ( Salmo fontinalis; speckled or brook trout) is at its best as soon as the ice is fairly out of the lakes — viz. about the end of May and during the month of June and early part of July, when the fish are found in the shallow water and rise readily to the fly. Later, as the water becomes warm, they seek the deeper parts of the lakes and are only to be captured hy deep trolling and bait-fishing, until towards the middle of September, when instinct impels them to the vicinity of their spawning-grounds. The angler in Canadian lakes need give himself but little concern about the character of the artificial flies he requires for his trip. A dozen varieties of medium size are all he will need, and these can readily Baedekkb's Canada. 4 I X. -SPORTS AND PASTIMES. be obtained in the local shops. The Canadian trout, unlike their British brethren, are not fastidious. They, however, rank with the finest trout in the world for beauty of form and marking and for excellence of flesh. Specimens of 5-6 lbs. are considered large, but they dometimes reach double that weight. Should the angler seek a nobler quarry, he can betake himself to the beautiful Lake St. John (p. 54), the home of the famous Ouananiche ( 'Wah-na-nish' ) , the fresh-water salmon of Canada. This is a true Salmo Salar ^ which has bet-n shut off from access to the sea through some upheaval. It bears a strong resemblance to its projrenitor, whom it excels in rapacity md garaeness, but it rarely exceeds six or seven pounds in weight (comp. p. 50). The tributaries of the St. Lawrence, especially those ou the N. shore of this noble river, have long been famous for their Salmon (Salmo salar) fishing. They are, however, almost entirely held by private owners; and, as the pools are limited in number, it is not easy to obtain leave to capture this monarch of game fish. There are still, however, many fair stream.s where fishing may be hired by the day or for longer periods. The outlets of these rivers abound with -rs on snowshoes can easily overtake the moose, whose great weight causes them to sink in tlie snow. Indian and half-breed guides frequently attratt moose by imitating tiicir cry. The animal crashes passion- ately towards the sound and meets its doom. A repeating rifle is a necessity, for a wounded bull-moose will turu upon his assailant. In no (;ase need the hunter expect to kill this monarch of the forest without the expenditure of mu(;h labour and skill, and a true eye and steady nerve are required for the final shot. Perhaps the moose-hunter cannot do better than make his first essay in Nova Scotia. There are three recognised sporting-districts in this province: the Northern, which comprises the counties of Cumberlatid and Colchester; the Eastern, which includes portions of p]ast Haliburton, Guysboruugh, and Pictou; and the Western, which takes in all the country to the VV. of a line drawn from Hali- fax to Yarmouth. Of these districts the last is probably the best; and moose are reported 'plentiful' and increasing in numbers. The immense extent of wild and un -ultivable land in Quebec and La- brador, stretching N. to Hudson Straits and Hay, is another enormous game preserve in wlucli the moose occurs in large numbers. Moose abounMa{7( Ortyx Virginianns ) abound in this district; but. as is usually the case in the neighbourhood of all populous towns, they are subjected to too much shooting and are likely ere long to become scarce. They afford excellent sport over good dogs. Below Chatham are the famous Lake St. Clair Marshes (p. IGo), where a good shot will frequently kill over a hundred big duck in a single day's shooting. The finest portions of the marshes are strictly preserved, but good mixed bags of woodcock, snipe, quaiL plover, and duck may be made at other points on the lake. Wild geese are plentiful in the spring and are usually shot from 'blinds" erected on the line of flight. Hotel accommodation can be had in the neighbourhood. All the tributaries of the Ottawa River (R. 31, 41) afford good sport for gun and rod and have the advantage of being within easy distance of central points. Ottawa is as good a point as any for the sportsman's headquarters, while further up the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway the thriving town of Pembroke (p. 1881 offers an excellent point d'appui. — Moving to the W. along the Jvi X. SPOKTS AND PA8TIMKS. transcoiitiiiental line, we come to Mattawa | p. 189), a good starting- point for the big game country, Deur abound, as also do black bear, while moose are as plentiful as that noble animal can reasonably be expected to be (conip. p. liii ). (niides, boats, and canoes can readily be obtained here. LakeTemiscamingue (p.lSO), easily reaclied from this point, is surrounded by virgin forests abuundiiifi in game, moose, (-aribou, and bear. — FoUowinir up the main line of the rail- way, we reas according to the character of the game he wishes to pursue. Everything necessary for these excursions can readily be procured at Winnipeg (comp. ])p.l98, 199, 194). Shoal Lake (p. 199) abounds in wild fowl, while in the unsettled country to the N. of the lake are many Black-iail l>eer ( Oervus macroeis ) and a few moose and elk. Whitewater Lake, Lake Winnipeg (p. 194), and Lake Manitoba (p. 196) aftord enor- mous bags of wild ducks, and big game cigi be had in the vicinity. Father to the W., near Maple Creek (p. 202) and Medicine Hat (p. 203), is what is known as the 'Antelope Country'; and to the IS', of Calgary (p. 209) is the 'lled-deer Kegion', a fine one for big game, though as yet seldom visited. Away throvigh the lieart of the liocky Mountains, in the midst of the grandest scenery the world lias to show, the ardent sportsman will tind farther varieties of game. The Wapiti or American Elk ( Cervus Canadensis) , moose, deer, caribou, Mountain Sheep [Osi^ Canadensis), Mountain Ooat (Haploceros), ami even the Grizzly Bear (Ursus horribilis), monarch of the mountains, may fall before his rifle. The construction of the railway through the Rockies has X. SPOKT.S AND PASTIMES. Ivii naturally drivfn back the game some little distanre from the track, but there are numerous places along the line, whence the reports of the big game can easily be reachi d, with the help ot lo- al truideb. The railway officials will always be found ready to give information and facilities to sportsmen. Banff (p. 207) is one good ci ntn-. The >teamers ascending the Columbia from Golden (p. '213) afford access to a fine game country. There is always a fair chance of meeting mountain goat and sheep in the Asulkan district (p. 21G), where the railway company has erected a roomy chalet. On Vancouvir I^;land, within a short distance of Victoria (p.*22o), grous<' and quail are plentiful; while a short journey into the in- terior of the island brings us to the ranges frequented by deer and bear. It should be borne in mind by thf sportsmen who pro]>o?e to hunt the 'big game' of Canada that repeating rifles of the heaviest make will be found the most desirable. In addition to the above article , the sportsman ahould consult the excellent pamphlet, written hy E. W. Sandys and published by the Cana- dian Pacific Hailway Co. under the title of "Fishint; and .'^hooting". See also 'Sportinii Resorts', by Arthur G. Dovghty^ publi>hed by the Grand Trunk Railway Lacrosse is the national game of Canada and takes precedence of all others in the public estimation. It is a modern variation of the 'ball game' as originally played by some of the Indian tribes and described by various writers. It demands great skill, activity, and endurance, and is unquestionably one of the most attractive of all pastimes for tlie onlooker, being full of incident, simple in its nature, and 'easily understandcd of the pi ople'. The National La- crosse Associiition. comitrisiiig representatives of the principal clubs in Ontario and Quebec, regulates the dates and locality, and es- tablishes the rules, of the annual matches for the championship. A cbampionehip matcii usually brings together an immense crowd of spectators. The championship for 1893 is held by the 'Capitals' of Ottawa. The enthusiasm of the spectators for a favourite club is sometimes carried to excess, and some of the i)rincipal matches have lately been disgraced by a rowdyism which, if not put down with a strong hand, cannot fail to bring the game into liisrepute. Another cnuse of dissatis- faction to the spectators is the rule allowing an interval of 10 min. be- tween each game of the match. As it often hajipena that a game is de- cided in 2 or 3 min., or even less, there is sometimes more interval than play. This absurd rule has luen promptly discarded by the English Lacrosse (,'lubs and should certainly be modiiied in Canada also. Cricket. The principal clubs are those of Toronto , Montreal, Ottawa, Winni])eg , Victoria, and St. John; while Halifax turns out a strong team, largely rei'ruited from the British garrison. There is an Association, which selects players to represent All Canada in the annual match with the United States and against other visiting teams. The game, however, excites little general interest. Golf is played at Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa, Kingston, and Iviii X. SPOltTS AND PASTIMES. Toronto. The Quebec Club is the oldest, dating from upwards of 20 years ago (liuks, see p. 45). Montreal ranks next in seniority (p. 20) , ^vhile the other clubs are of comparatively recent origin. Great interest has, of late, been taken in the game; and visiting golfers may be assured of a warm welcome. An Inter-Provincial 'j'ournament promises to be an annual event. The St. Andrews rules are generally followed. Hockey is played in Canada only as a winter-game, and the oxpertness of Canadian skaters makes a well-contested mat«h an extremely graceful and interesting sight. There is much rivalry between the clubs of the different cities, and the present cham- pionship is held by the Montreal Amateur Athletic Association (p.20). Skating can be enjoyed to perfection in Canada from Dec. to March. Almost every city or town has one or more covered skating- rinks (<-om.p. p. 20). which are well attended by both sexes. Most of them are lighted by electricity; and the fancy-dress carnivals held in them afford a unique and very attractive spectacle. Snowshoeing. Every town in Canada has its snowshoe club, and in the cities and larger towns they are numerous. Each club has its distinctive uniform of bright-coloured blanket-coat and 'tuque' (cowl), so that a procession of snowsl oers tramping across the snow on a clear moonlight night, rousing the echoes with their songs and choruses, is a most attractive sight, and one not to be witnessed outside of the Dominion of Canada. The art of walking on suowshoes is not quite as easy as it looks , but can be acquired after a little practice. Tobogganing is an extremely popular winter amusement in Canada with all classes, from the small boy who slides down a steep hill on his *bob-sled' to the elite of society who flock to Rideau Kail on Saturday afternoons to enjoy the facilities afforded by the viceregal slides. A 'toboggan' is constructed of thin pieces of board about 18 inches wide, curved upwards at one end and varying in length from 4 to 8 ft., according to the number of persons it is de- signed to carry. A long cushion is placed on it for the passengers ; and the frail conveyance rushes down the snow-covered declivity at the speed of an express train. The steersman, in the rear, directs its course with hands and feet. The sport is most exhilarat- ing and has a sufficient spice of danger to make it exciting. The toboggan is an invention of the Indians, who use it to drag burdens along the snow. Tachting and Boating. Toronto is the headquarters of those sports, its fine lake-frontage affording special facilities for regattas. A yacht club and several rowing-clubs are located here (comp. pp. 154, 1591. Halifax is another yachting-centre (p. 75), and there are rowing and canoe clubs at Montreal, Ottawa, Lachine (p. 187), and other places. Numerous regattas, open to all amateurs, are held annuallv. X. SPORTS AM) PASTIMES. lix • ^ Curling is seen at its fullest perfei'tioii in Canada. In Quebeo and E. Ontario metal 'stones' are in vogue instead of the granite ones commonly used in Scotland. Nearly all the Canadian rinks are in covered buildings; and, as the ice is very carefully looked after, a nicety of play is attainable that would be a revelation to old-fashioned curlers accustomed to the rough-and-ready style of the open-air game. Montreal has three curling <;lubs (p. 20). each witli a large membership and a commodious club-house. Ottawa has also three, including the 'Governor -Generals Club", with a private rink attached to the viceregal residence (p. 147). Quebec has a club important both tor its size and for its records of past vic- tories. Many of the smaller towns also boast of rinks. Matches be- tween the various clubs are freiiuent throughout the winter. The rules observed are those of the ''Hoyal Caledonian Curling Club'. Football flourishes in Canada, and clubs exist in all the prin- cipal cities. The Rugby Union rules are most generally adoptiMl. Cycling is not so much in vogue as it would be if t'le ., the sixth vol. of which, reaching to 1779, was published in 1893. — Other histories are those of /. if. McMuUen (new edit., 1892). Dent (1883). Miles (1872), F. X. Qameau (4th edit., 1883), the AhU Faillon (1865), the Ahb^ Ferland (2nd ed., 1882), and Riveillaud (1888) — the last four in French. The student should also consult Justin Win»or''s 'Narrative and Critical History of America'. Perhaps the best manual is the 'School XI. BIBMOGHAPHY. Ixi Ilisti^ry of Canada', by Miles. Comp. abo /. G. Bourii)oV$ •Parliament.iry Procediiro and Oovernmcnt In Canada" ('2nd ed.; 18'I2), and the same author's ^Manual of the Constitntinnal History ot' Canada" (1888). — Anion<; other worka that may he mentioned in this cnuaectiun are Oiddwin S/nit/i's 'Canada and tl'C Canadian i^nestion" (1891). Sir Charles Dilke'^s 'Greater Britain' (2nd ed., IH'^S), and Prof. Set'ei/\i 'Expansion of Kn'^land" (1HS3). — F. A. McCord''s 'HandViook of Canadian Dates' (1888) may bo found useful. Aniont; rador (see p. 113)onthe right and the island of Newfoundland (see p. 99) on the left. After we leave the Strait, the Gulf rapidly expands, but in clear weather land Is almost continuously visible to the N. as far as Cape Whittle (see below). Beyond Bradore Bay the N. coast of the Gulf belongs to the Proiince of Quebec (p. 40). Numerous fine salmon - streams flow into the Gulf all the way from Belle Isle to the Saguenay, and many small fishing-stations may be seen along the shore. To the right, about 160 M. from Belle Isle, rises Cape Meccatina^ a bold headland. At Cape Whittle^ 80 M. farther on, our course bends from S.W. to nearly W. The steamer is now out of sight of land for about 7:3 M., until Heath Point, at the E. end of the island of Anticosti, is seen ahead. Anticosti, dividing the St. Lawrence Gulf into two channels, lies at a distance of 25-70 M. from the coast of Quebec. It is 140 M. long and 10-35 M. wide, and has few inhabitants ex- cept the lighthouse-keepers, though frequented in summer by fish- ermen and sportsmen. The Dominion Government maintains Im- portant signal and wrecking stations here. Natashquan, 80 M, from Cape Whittle, lies to the right, at the mouth of the river of the same name, one of the largest on the coast, and celebrated for its salmon. The steamer passes to the S. of Anticosti, between it and the Peninsula of Oaspe (p. 67). Beyond Anticosti the land on both sides, which again fades out of sight for a time, belongs to Quebec. To the left (S.) is Cape Magdalen, at the mouth of the Magdalen River. To the right lie Moisic and the picturesque Bay of Seven Islands, cele- brated in a ballad of Whittier. On Egg Island (right) Admiral Walker's fleet was wrecked in 1711 , 800 men losing their lives (see p. 39). Our course again lies nearly due S. — The St. Anne Mts., culminating in Mt. Baypeld (3973 ft.), are seen to the left as we near the mov.ch of the St. Lawrence. We leave the Gulf and enter the noble St. Lawrejice River (see p. 185) between Cape Chat on the left and the low Pointe de Monts (lighthouse) on the right, about 580 M. from Belle Isle and 130 M. f In May and Jane the steamers enter the Gulf of St, Lawrence round tlic S. side of Newfoundhind. GLASGOW. /. Route. 3 from the W. end of Auticosti. The river is here 32 M. wide. About 25 M. farther on, to the left, rise the Papa of Matane. The village of Matane lies at the mouth of the Matane River. The steamers uot carrying mails take on the pilot at Father Point (p. 65), while the mail-steamers take the pilot on hoard and land the mails and passen- gers for the Maritime Provinces at Rimnuski (&ee p. 65) . 80 M. from the mouth of the river, here 30 M, wide. About 10 M. beyond Rimouski are the little village of Bic (p. 64) and Bic Island. The outline of the S. shore here is picturesque. Farther on are Trois Pistoles (p. C4j an/2-7 days), and the Regllau Mail Steamers riin either via Havre or to New York direct (3505 knots, in 10-11 days). The Express Steamers start from Cit.rhaven, at the mouth of the Elbe, 58 M. from Hamburg, to which passengers are forwarded by special train, while the other boats start from Hamburg (see Baedeker^s Handbook to Northern Germany) itself (wharf at the Grosse Grasbrook). At Cuxhaven and Southampton passengers embark by tenders. Pas-engers are carried between London and Southampton free of charge, generally by special trains. New York time is 4 hrs. 54 min. behind that of Southampton and 5 hrs. 35 min. 1)ehind that of Hamburg. The Hamburfi-American Co. has also a regular line of emigrant steamers (Hansa Line) from Hamburg and Antwerp to Canada. Emigrants fron» Great Britain join the steamer at Antwerp. Leaving Cuxhaven. the steamer steers to the N.W., passing tlie three Elbe Lightships and affording a diitant view of the red rocks of Heligoland to the right. Various other German, Dutch, and Belgian lights are visible. The first English lights are those of the Galloper Lightship and the Goodwin Sands, while the first part of the coast to come in sight is usually near Dover. Farther on we pass through the Straits of Dover, with the English and French coasts visible to the right and left. The steamer of the direct service either keeps on its way through mid-channel or diverges to the left to call at Havre (comp. p. 6), while the express steamer hugs the English coast, passes between the Isle of Wight and the; mainland (with Ports- mouth to the right), and enters Southampton Water (430 knots), where it generally anchors off Calshot Castle, to receive the British mails and passengers from Southampton (see Baedeker s Great Bri- tainy Thence to New York, see R. Ig. 6 Route 1. CHANNEL ISLANDS. i. From Bremen to Few York. The best steamers of the North German Lloi/d (Norddeuttcher Lloyd) run to New York (3560 M., in 8 days) via Southampton, but others run to New York direct. The steamers start from (40 M.) Bremerhaven, at tho mouth of the Weser, to which passengers are forwarded by special train. See Baedeker^s Northern Oermany. New York time is 51/2 hrs. behind that of Bremen. On issuing from the mouth of the Wescr, the steamer steers to the N."W., -with the Jahdehusen opening to the left. A little farther on it passes the East Frisian Islands. The rest of the voyage is sim- ilar to that described in R. 1 g. Southampton is 460 M. from Bremerhaven. j. From Havre to New York. This route is followed by the French steamers of the Compagnie Gene- rate Transatlantique. The distance is 3200 knots and the average time 6V2-772 days. Some of the Hamburg steamers (R. Iht also call here. New York time is 5 hrs. behind that of Havre. Havre., see Baedeker's Handbook of Northern France. The steamer steers out into the English Channel, all'ording distant views (left) of Cape La Hogue, Cape La Hague, and the Channel Islands. The fartlier course of the voyage resembles that of tlie German steamers above described. k. From Antwerp to New York. This is the route of the Red Star Lint (3325 M., in 8 days). New York time is 574 hrs. behind that of Antwerp. Antwerp., see Baedeker s Handbook to Belgium and Holland. The steamer descends the West Schelde. "with the Dutcli province of Zealand on either side, passes Flushing, on tlie island of Walcheren (riglit), and enters the North Sea. Its subseq'ient course is similar to that of the German steamers (see above). 1. From Rotterdam to New York. This is the route of the Netherland - American Steam I^avigcdion Co. (3280 knots, in 9-10 days). Rotterdam, see Baedekers Handbook to Belgium and Holland. Tlie steamer descends the picturesque Maas for 2 hrs. and then crosses tlie North Sea to (10-12 lirs.) Boulogne (see Baedeker's Northern France). In passing through the English Channel, it affords a good view of tlie S. coast of England, including the Isle of Wight, the Lizard, and the Scilly Isles. The rest of the voyage is similar to that of R. Ig. m. From Glasgow to New York. This is the regular route of the Anchor Line (2920 knots, in 10 days; from Moville, 282 ) knots, in 9 days). Passengers may join the steamer at Glasgow, Greenock, or Moville. The ditlerence of time between Glasgow and New York is 47* hrs. From Glasgow to Tory Island, see R. 1 c. The general course followed by the Glasgow steamers is considerably to the N. of that of the Liverpool boats, not joining the latter till the Banks of New- foundland (p, 109). ""^^^^^ UiiJc Kill I :; - -Mr' /lnijr.\ (iKTlgltlWC c FTagteRocJ: ■:5^ /i , — .^ i ,y Ji^goilsUlfPtii CitvHa JSUlsI. Black Tom V GreamU^ ca^cml't Governors 1.^^'^ ■^ / Liberty I. ,^ ^ Tiayoj ^ " " '•vUle BAY Gowaaus^ Liberty I. ^^ UPPER ^^*^^>^:,^,, 0. IV K u ^ ]y ^-'^StCeorpe -J I CorrwrSrafttL. .,j._- ^ ^ ^Shooter l.^ . .\ . . ^4J> ^ lowland Hook Towerlf,,,^sriw ^, ^'^"•i ,. ^ . /.r„..tinn ..^^L^^ ^est .fimgiltoii ■ / fir,, p^rr-t AewRrinht/tn. = '/^ OUiPUrce Elm Park SurnmerviHe GrimiteviHe § fort TompkmsvRle OwlffeaA The Trc(idcv y«,Kiv,. s TAT E K' X^s^ii.:4#ti^^-^^'^^*^ • ir'-^v^A''' cj u\..gi'wSfrriuqrUU. "': . ; '% yfLmdmPark ^^r->i. , ^K. '^ %:.^-^Gfirte(soi^ / Lonpy*'rf< j^, Ql^^.m^-V"^ . Worrnumn Md^e' tprtWat^ton pj IxtandVh'W SUirLn/idiiKf f'rcs/iKUts : • ^__ ^, ^ W'ri'i'i.-rA. I)('l)(>s GcngI F.stiib' Leipzig. P I'rdonrdt Gray "'It. ^^ I XrwDorp r^jrind NortonP! "sialute JVUieT =5 1 : 210.0 ^rJ^niOHt ' CbaUiuiu^ 4.\^'uodUii«liT \ .1 ? 1/ iJ tt ^ "" vv'' jsevratjDr ' ' /W " ^ - Xr .A ffjafsfgiuf^ ^ . \ ^^ ' ' I Fen^ / C\ / '• N y ^IT Brother ^^^^ ^^nassanP' ^ , v O r • -^^ ^ I ^f^¥ ^«"rr W*^ rivioiiport \t ; L o n g 1 s 1 a ii d ,' KtmFoint , € >* -& . •< ."^p"/ KandaOI. s.Hroihrr |.; a ^J .-^- / , i,/ Hikers I. CoOeq^py ^"'^ ^ \ ^:A,.- / Ward's [s.laml Rerrimisl. -^ ; ■->?■'■ / UfllCate , iajiford Pt S -c- / 5^ Asloria v ♦' ? „ ^ ,>eM'town % WhiXestoneP' WULetsP* Whitrslono onpoi't \ Bay 4* ^, .r.ian^ LONG ISL.VND CITY 'Ceiiir.Bpp. .- ■ I oroiia / ^ Crponpoinl I, III I re I Hill -^-iiA > ^v ■•■' V fdspeth, CpluuibasYiQe, *g ilvHcUl '.iiiilfnUiU i**». -^AVilliamsb ^E R O O IC L T X Si"^^'""*^' ' / .^ .- -^ #^^ ''fSSm. V> MMtle Ci-auTf^' k'1»i>>^ timnt i^'j CreoriWood '*-"•] vt\oinet riaCbush O l>fe Kenhnfflon •SIC \FarKriU£ Jg( CanccrsteL South EastJfewTork V *■ -^ 'J ■ .cv- ,. \ FUUlands oni South Gr Bo**** GreavPf- Rulersiar ««^^»^ ^oi^' Bergen ^ ^ JoCos Z>Ka m Ttrecl fr . TioatstCivvf ., island su,.vvCr.reBowB;».- \ ^^^^^' *v >^"'' './< ; - -^ ^ / Marsh Hassodf ''Cw ^ Ri> \ Rock y ^ RiiCfleBai g. ^ \ • Amrvrrtrr ShefpshnadBay ^ "9^ ' LUtleKggM. -s^ -V ^ . c" '^'/?^ KccfUCtfrt^ J, a y tv e a c h ^<^ton^for, B. '^''''*" Beach 2L0.000 9 4^ 2, From New York to Montreal. a. Vift. Albany or Troy , Saratoga, and Lake Champlain. 3S4 M. New Yoi:k Centrai, & Hriis'>\ Riviiu Raii-road to (142 M.) Albany in 2V4-33/4 hrs.; Def-awaue A Hli>-:'.n Kailuoap tlience to (2i'JSI.l Montreal in S-10 lir.^. (tliroujih - express in ll'/a lirs. ; thrtmgh- tare S 10, parlour-car $2. sleeper $2; a^ats to the left). Luggage chLikod tlirfni^ih to Montreal U examined by the cnistom-house officers on arrival. — Thia is tbe shortest and most direc route from New York to Montreal. Those who have not seen the Uudso. should go liy Steamer to Albany. Tlie United States portions of this and the following routes are given In tlie merest outline, and the reader is referred for greater detail to Baedeker^s Handbook to the United States. New York. — Hotels. Below 14th St. : " breroorl House, \\. from $2; "Astor //o., R. from iVjix "Bioadwat/ Ctntral, from S 2'/2, K. from $1; St. Denis, R. from $1: Metrojwlitan' etc. — From l4th St. to 26lh St. find. Union Sq. and 3radi=;nn Sq): "Brnnfwici, \\. from S? 2 ; Fifth Avev tie Hotel., from $5; Hof matin House, R. from $2; 'Everett House, K. from $1V2', *' Weft minster, irom $3; Victoria, from $41/2, II. from $2; Sturterctnt, from $372. K. from S IV2, etc. — Above Madison S bounded by the Hudson or Xortk River on the W. and the Ead R'ver on the E., while it is separated from the mainland on the N. an.i from New York 1o Mont- real in 14-16 brs.). Trains run to Quebec by tbia route in 21-22 hrs. (fare $ 12)- The train starts from the Grand Central Depot (p. 9), crosses the Harlem^ and farther on runs to the N.E., skirting Lor\g Island Sound. 28 M. Greemvicli^ in Connecticut ; 331;) ^,l^ Stamford; 5G M. Bridgeport. — 73 ]\1. New Haven (Xcw Haven House; Rail. Restau- rant), a city of 81,298 inhab., is well known as the seat of Yale Uni- versity. — llOM. Hartford (Align Ho.; Rail. Restaurant), the capital of Connecticut, is a city of 53,230 inhab., with a handsome *Capitol and other public buildings. — 136 M. Springfield (Massasoit Ho.), an active indtistrial city of Massachut^etts, w'itn 44,179 inhab., is best knovNU for the rilles made in the V. S, Armoury liere. Our train now diverges to the left from the line to Boston and ascends the beautiful *Valley of the Connecticut (views mainly to the right). 144 M. Holyoke, with large paper-mills; 153 M. yortk- ampton, the seat of Smith College (for women) and other well-known educational establishments ; 19B M. Brattlehoro. At (220 M.) Bellous Falls (Rail. Restaurant) we cross the Connecticut, recrossing it at (246 m.) Windsor. 260 M. White River Junction is the junction of an alternative route to Montreal via Wells River Junction and Aeir- port (see R. 3 c). Our line (Central Vermont R.R.) ascends the picturesque * Valley of the White River, which tlows through the Green Mts. From (325 M.) Montpelier Junction a short branch-line runs to Montpeiier, the capital of Vermont. — 333 M. Waterhury is a good centre for excursions among the Green Mts. (3/f. Mansfield, Camel's Hump, etc.). 12 Routes. - BOSTON. From Boston Farther on, Lake Champlain I p. 10) comes into sight on the left. — 356 M. Essex Junction^ and thence to — 450 M. Montreal (Roiiaventiire Station), see li. 2b. (I. Vii, Herkimer a a. Malone. 474 M. Xew York Central i!^' Hiboux River IIaii.koai* to (224 M.) Herkviit'r in 6 brs.; ADiitoM>ACK & St. Laurence Railway thviice to (173M.) Malone in G hrs. ; Central Vermont Railroad thence tn (40 M.) Cotemi Junction in 1 hr. ; Grano Trink Railway thence to (37 ?'I.) Montreal in 1 hr. (tliroufth-express in 13 hrs.; throu!:h-fare SlOi. — This new nnite, i»l)ened in I8ij3, crosses the Adiroudacks and forms a convenient approach to many points in that district. TravelK>rs may also approach Montreal during summer by the steamer 'Paul Smith' from Clnrk^s IsUind (Va'.lii- field)^ descendin;i fhe St. Lawrence throuuih the Cottun^ Cedars, >*<]>lit liOck\ Cascade, and Lachine Rapids (comp. H. ?0). From New York to (143 M.) Albany, see K. la. The train now turns to the loft (W.) and leaves the Hudson. 146 M. West Albanti ; 160 M. Schenectady. We ascend the smiling *Mohau'k Valley. 176 M. Amsterdam; 217 M. Little Falls, in a romantic gorire. At (224 M.) Herkimer on line diverges to the right from the Buffalo line and runs to the N.W., across the W. side of the Adi- rondack Wilderness. 244 M. Trenton Falh (Moore's Hotel ), with a series of beautiful ^Waterfalls, having a total descent of 310 ft. 2S2 M. Fulton Chain; 331 M. Chiidwold; 337 M. Tupper Lake Junction; 35272 M. Saranac Inn Station. At (355^2 -^1) ^^'^"'^ Clear a branch-line diverges to (6 .M.) Saranac Lake, connecting there with the new Saranac & Lake Placid U.K. 360 M, Paul Smith's; 372 M. Loon Lake. At (397 M.) Malone we join the Central Vermont R.R. and run to the N. to (436 M.) Valleyfield, where we cross the St. Lawrence to (437 M.) Coteau Junction. Here we join the Grand Trunk Railway, which we follow to the E. Route hence to Montreal, see p. 162. 474 M. Montreal (Bonaventurc Station), see p. 19. 3. From Boston to Montreal, a. Via Rutland and Burlington. 337 M. FrroHBURG Railroad from Boston to (114 M.) Btllows Falls in 31/4 hrs.; Central Vermont Railkoau thence to (196 3L) 't (1636), richest, and most famous of American seats of learning. '^Boston Harbour, with its numerona islands, is alsn well worth seeing. — For details, see Baedeker^s United State.''. On leaving: Boston, the train crosses the Charles, affording a view (right) of Bunker Hill .yonument^ commemorating the battle of June 17th, 1775. — 10 M. Walthatn., with cotton-mills and a large watch- factory; 20 -M, Concord, sacred for its associations with Hawthorne, Emerson, and other men of letters; 50 M. Fitchburg. on the Nashua River. Farther on, Mt. Wackusctt (2108 ft.) rises to the S. Near (62 M.) I'roy (not to he coufonndcd with the city mentioned at p. 10), Mt. Monadnock (318G ft.) is seen^to the right. 114 M. Bellows Falls, and thence to — 337 M. Montreal (Bonaveuture Station), see K. '2c. b. Via Lowell and Concord. 334 M. BoSTt)N & LowKLL Railroad to (144 31.) White Rivir Junction in 4' •2-6'/4 hi'S.; Centkal Vp:kmont Railuoad thence to (190 M.) Montreal in 6-7 hrs. (fares as above.). Boston, see p. 12. We cross the Charles and run towards the N.W. 2Q M. Lowell, the third city of Massachusetts (pop. 77,696) and one of the chief industrial cities of Anierii;a (woollen goods, carpets, etc.); 40 M. ?iashua ; 57 M. Maiichester, a cotton-making city (44,126 inhab.); 75 M. Concord (Kail. Restaurant), the capital of New Hampshire (17.000 inhab.). 144 M. White Ri'-er Junction, and thence to — 834 M. Montreal (Honaventure Station), see R. 2 c. c. Vi& Concord, Plymouth, Wells River, and Newport. 342 31. Boston & Maim. Railkoai* to (233 31.) A^'wport iu 71/2-8 hrs.; Can'ADian Paciiic Rajlwat thence to (109 M.) Mmtreal in 4 hrs. (fares as above). — This route runs via, Z.«Av Wiiinepesavkee and also torms one of the approaches to the White Mts. (views to the riyht.). From Boston to(75M.) Concord, see R. 3 b. Our line now crosses the Merrimac and runs towards the N. 104 M. Lake Village, at the lieuv'. of an inlet of *Lake Winnepesaukee, is the Junction of a line to {il M.) Alton Bay, one of tlie favourite resorts on that lake. Fartlier on we skirt the \V. bays of Lake Winnepesaukee. 100 M. ^^eirs is another popular summering-place. 112 M. Meredith is 5 M. from Centre Harhor. perhaps the pleasantest point on Lake Winnepesaukee, — 125 M. Plymouth ( Pemigejcasset House) is the startinjr-point of the line to (21 M.) \orth Woodstock, at the S. end of the *Fianconia Notch ( White Mts.). Farther on, Mt. Moosilauke (4790 it.) is con- spicuous to the right. — 169 M, Wells River Junction (Rail. Restau- rant), on the Connecticut, for lines to Montpelier (p. 11) and the White Mts. Beyond (178 M.) Barnet we ascend along the Pas- sumpsic. crossing the stream repeatedly. — 188 M. St. .Johnsbury. 233 M. Newport (700ft.; ■'.Memphremagog Ho., $21/2-3; New- 14 Routed. ■ FARNHaM. From Boston port Ho.^ $li/o-2), a village with SOOOinhab.. is prettily sitviaterominent Owl's Head (3270 ft.), which is ascended hence in l'/2-2V2 hrs. The "^'View includes, on a clear day, Montreal and the ('■reon, White, and Adirondack Mts. Farther on, the steamer passes Long Island and calls at some small landings. On the E. shore are the country- houses of several wealthy Montreaiers. and on the W. rises Mt. Elephnntix (Revere Ho.). Oeorgeville (Camperdmvn Hotel), on the E. bank, 20 31. from Newport, is a quiet and inexpensive watering-place. — Magog (f';((o/i House), at the X. end of the lake, at its outlet throuirh the Magog Eiv,)\ affords good fishing quarters and is a station on the C. P. Railwav from Montre-l to St. John, N.B. (see h*. 7l. Mt. Orford (i5Ci0 ft.), b 3I,*to the W.. alTord" a iiood view of the Canadian pine-forests to the "N". and W. Beyond Newport onr line runs towards the N.W., following the valley of the Mlssisquoi and enterimsj; Canada (Quehec) near (250 M.) MansonvUle. Beyond (25() M.) (Hen Sutton we re-enter Vermont. Jay Peak (see above) rises to the left. At (264 M.) Rich ford, the junction of a line to St. Albans, we turn to the .\. and linally leave Vermont. At (270 M.) Sutton Junction we again turn towards the W., the line in a straight direction going on to St. Guillaume ( p. 30). via Drummondville. — 29(S M. Farnham (Rail. Restaurant), on the Yamaslca. is tiie junction of lines to <*^^(>aed, and in 1776-77 it formed one of the chief bases for the troops of Carleton and Hurgoyne. The fort was fuialiy abandoned in 1888. Chambly contains a bronze statue, by L.P. Heticrt (p. 28), of Cvl. de SaUiberry., who, at the head of a body of Canadians, de- feated an American force at Chateangay in 1812. — 25V2 31. St. Lambert., and thence to (32 31.) Montreal., see p. 10. The rest of the route to (312 M.) St. Jolm's and — 342 M. Montreal (Windsor St. Station; p. 19) is the same as tlirit described, in the reverse direction, in R. 7. Montreal is also reached tVom K'ewport (see above) by the Grand Trunk Railway via Stanstead Junction, Massawippi^ Lenno-vville, and Shei'brooke- to Montrenl. PORTSMOUTir. 3. Route. 1 5 tl. Vik Portsmouth and North Conway. 365 M. Boston and Maine Railuoau to (138 -^'.j North Conwau in o^A- 6V2 hi3. \ Maine Ckntrai, Railuoad tuence tu (")1M.) Lunenlyiirg in 2V4 hra. \ St. JoHNsiiLitv w. Lake Champlain RAir.ROi4i> thence fo {22 31.) .SV. Jvhtis- bury in I hr. ; Bosti>n (t Maine Raiekoak tlieuce to (45 M.) Npwport in 13/4 hr. ; Canadian Pacific Raieuav tli-nce to (lOO M.) Monfrtai. in 4hiv«i. (through-fare $10.50). Passengers fir i>ueb>'C (fare Sll) may travel either via Quebec Junction and the L'pper Ccos R.R. or via Sherbrooke, and the Quebec Centri.il R.R. — This lino fiirni?i the siiorte'^* and (piickesr app'-i>ach to the ^Vhite Mis. and is also .me of the ri'gular rnutrs tu Lakr; Winne- ptsaukee. Boston., see p. 12. Tlie line crosses tlie Char'es anil runs to the N., near the sea. 11 M. Lynn; 16 M. Salem, a ([uaint old New Eng- land town, the st,ene of the 'Witelieraft Delusion' of i()9'2; 18 >I. Beverly, the junotion of a line to Manchester, ^'louceStates to the E. of the Rockies and N. of Carolina. 172 M. Zealand, the junction of a narrow-gauge line to Bethlehem and the Profile House. At (179 M.) Quebec Junction the Quebec (Upper Coos) Division of the Maine Central R.H. diverges to the right, conneeting witii the Canadian Pacific and Quebec Ce'itral Railways. FiioM Quebec Jlnction to Qiebec, 224 M., in 10 hrs. — This line passes (12 M.) Lancas^ter, (33,M.) North Stratford, and (46 M.) Colebrcok, and enters Canr.da at (55 M.) Bi:ccher''s fallx (hami-baggajic exantiued). We traverse a heavily-timbered and. aoantily-settled region. At {1^ M.) fit. Mafo we cross Ihe. watershed between the Connecticut and the St. Lawnrce. 84 M. SaivyerviUi:., with a large saw-mill. At (91 M.) Cook:i/tire J'inction we cross the Canadian Pacific Railway, which runs hence to the AV. to Sher- brooke (p. 31) and to the K. to Lakes Meg ontic and Moosehend (comp. ]). 31). Farther on we cross the St. Francis River. — lOA M. Dudsicell Junction is the point of .junction with the Quebec Central R.R. from Sherbrooke to Quebec. 107 M. Marbletoji., with lime-pits and marble quarriea; 116 M. Weedwi; 127 31. Garthhy, on Lake Jy Inter; 137 M. Coleraine; 147 M. Thetford. with f.imous asbestog-mines. Numerous characteristic French villages are passed, with red-roofed houses and prominent churches. From (180 M.) Beaucc Junction (Rail. Restaurant) a short line runs to St. Francis. Uur 16 Route 4. ■ LUREC. From Boston to the line now for a time follows the valley of the Cltaudi'ere^ the rovite by which Benedict Arm.M reached t^ueb.c in 1775 (p. 39). 202 M. St. An^elme. in the Etchemin Vallei/; 218 M. Hnrlaka Junction (p. 63). From (223 M.) Uris passengers are ferried across the tatf- room 3 l-l*/-2. meals 50-75c.). On Mon.,Tuus.. Thurs.. and Frid. in summer the steamers leave Commercial Wharf at 5 p.m. for Eastport and >St. J(jhn direct; on Wed. and Sat. passenjiers leave by the 1 p.m. train of the Boston & Maine A.R. (Western Division) and connect at (110 M.) Portland (p. IS) at 5p.m. with the steamers (throujih-fares as above; time from Portland to Ka-^tport 15 hrs.). No service on Sunday. Baggage is examined by the custom-nouse ofticers on board the steamer, between Eastport and St.John. Geiveral Agent, E. A. Waldron, Commercial Wharf; City Agent. A. J. Simmons., 211 Washington St., Boston. The st-amers are comfortable and well-equipped, — lUiilway Jiouts from Boston to St. John, see p. 142. Boston, see p. 12. The pleasant sail through Boston Harbour is described in Baedeker's Handbook to the United /States, to wliich reference is also made for the route from Portland to Eastport. The direct steamer (see above) soon passes out of sight of land, and it is not till about sunrise next morning that the coast of 3/ame becomes dimly visible to the left. Nearing shore, we see the tine cliffs of the island of Grand Manan (p. 141) to the right. When the tide serves, the steamer rea^'hes Eastport by the Narrows, between Luhec on the left and the island of Campobello (p. 140) on the right. At the en- trance of this channel is Quoddy Head Light (1. ), marking the E. limit of the L'nitcd States. When the tide is unfavourable, we pass outside Campobello aiul approacli Eastport from the E., Avith Deer Island to our right. Lubec {A'emattano : Hillside JIo., $2-3). at which the -teamers call in summer both going and coming, is a pleasant little wa ing-place with the easternmost lighthouse in the I'nited States. The Young JMen's Christian Associations of New England hold encampments here in summer. "760 M. Eastport [Quoddy Ho., $'2-3), the easternmost settle- ment in the United States, with 4908 inhab. and an abandoned fort, Maritime Provinces. HAY OF FUNDY. 4. Tinute. 17 is finely situated on an island in Passamaquoddy Bay. ronne'^ted vitli the mainland by abridge. Passengers for ( ampohello (p. 140), Grand Manan (p. 1411. St. Andreris (p. 138), and points on the St. Croix (p. 139) leave the steamer here. After lying for about '/o hr. at Eastport, the steamer once more heads for thcE., -rosses the neck of Passamaquoddy Bay. and ascends through tlie Bay of Fundy, noted for its strong tides anil currents (('Omp. p. 122). The coast of New Brunswick is in sight to the left all the way to St. John (31 2 hrs.). As we enter St. .Tohn Harbour, Partridge Island, with its lighthouse, fog-whistlo. and quarantine station, lies to the right, while the roofs and spires of Carleton ( p. 128 ) are seen to the left. Our steamer threads its way amid the shipping of the busy lumbering port and lies to at Reed's Point Wharf { Plan of St. John, D, 3). St. John makes a particularly picturesque effect as seen from the water. 320 M. St. Jolm, see p. 124. b. From Boston to Yarmouth. 230 M. Steamers of the Ynvmcnth Steranship Co. in 17 lirs.. loavinti Lewis Wharf. Boafon. tvcry Mon.. Tues., Thurs.. arnl Friil. at noon, and reaching YarmoutJi (Baker's Wharf) the following morning (fare -S5. berth in general cabin included; state-rooms -Sl-B; meals 50-75c.). Through- tiekets sold to all ini]iortant jioints in Xn-a Scotia, etc. Agent. /. F. Spin7ipy. Lewis Wharf, Boston ; (3it,y Agents, T. G. Hall A- Co., b4 Chatham St. The steamers are staunch ami fast Ciyde-buil'; boats. Baggage is examined by the custom-house officers on the wbarf p.t Yarmouth. Boston and Boston Harbour^ see pp. 12, 13. ')u passing Boston Light., the steamer steers in an E. N. E. course and soon loses sight of land. Early risers will obtain a good view of Y^armouth (generally reached about 7 a.m.) while sailing up tii9 harbour. 230 M. Yarmouth, see p. 123. Connection is made here with the Nova Scotia railways, with coa<'hes to various point': \nA access- ible by railway, an^l with steatners to Barrington^ Shelbume^ Lodli- port, Lunenburg, Halifax^ and St. John (cump. p. 85), c. From Boston to Halifax. ;iHC) 3L Steamers of the Canada Atlap.tic d: Plant Steamship Co. in'iShrs., leaving Boston at noon ev,.ry Tues.. Thurs.. and Sat. in summer (June- Sept.) and every Sat. in winter, and roaching Halifax at 4 }).m. next day (fare c?7, including berth: state-room berth ^jl-li/a; meals 50-75c.). Through- tickets sold to all iniportant joints in the 3Iai'itimc Provinces. Baggage is examined on the wharf at Halifax, Agents. Richardsondi' Barnard. Lewis Wharf. Boston. A Steamer of the North Atlanii'- Steamship Co. leaves the Lewis Wharf. Boston, every Sat. at noon for Halifax^ which it reaches about 2 a.m. on Mon. (fare $3). Thence, starting at noon, it goes on to (5'27 M.) Port Ilawkesbiiry (arriving early on Tues. morniug^ through-fare 65). Picton (Tues. noon: $5). and (624 M.) Charlotte tow7i (Tues. afternoon ^ .^5; state- room $2: meals 50-75c.). The service by this route is, perhaps, hardly so good as that of the Canada Atlantic & Plant Co. On leaving Boston Hnrhour (p. 13). the steamer heads to the E.N.E. and soon loses sight of land. The first points of Nova Scotia Baei>kker\s (.'ana.ia. 2 18 Route 5. FUMTLAND. sighted fto the left) arc Seal Island and then Cape Sable. r>eyond tliis point the steamer skirts the ragged S.E. coast of the peninsula, which is generally visible to the left (lomp. I{, 15). After ])assing Cape S(tmbro. we enter Halifax Harbour between the lights of Cfie- bucto Head (1.) and ])evil Island (r. ). A little farther on we pass to the W. (I.) of Macnab's Island fp. 80) ami Georye Island (p. 80) and draw up at the Halifax Wharf I p. 74). The views as we ascend the harbour are very fine (coinp. p. i^O) For the steamboat route from Halifax to Port Iluwkeshiiry. Pictou^ and ChnrlotU'town. see i<. 8"^. 5. From Portland to Montreal and Quebec. a. Via the Grand Trunk Railway. Gkanj> Tjlunk I^.AIL^VAT to (297 M.) Monfrcal in 10-12 lirs. (fares $Vh. drawiiitj-ruiim car 8 1'/a, sleeping-b'Tth 'iS); t'> (317 31.) 'liiebec in 151/2- 18 hrs. (far(>s ."^S'/-.:, ."* 2. J? 21/2). Tiiis route forms a plca-ant approach to Canada, ■jkirtini; the N. margin of the White 3Its. (p. 15; views to tlir left). From Boston to Canada by this route takes 4 hrs. more. Portland (Falmouth Ho.; Prtble llo.). the largest city in Maine, with (1890) 36,425 inhab., is finely situated on a hilly peninsula projecting into Casco Bay. The poet Lonufellow (1807-82) wus a native of Portland, and the house in which he was born and that ii^ which he afterwards lived are among tlie lions of the town. The train crosses the Presumpscot Elver and intersects the Maine Central R,R. at (11 M.) Yarmouth, i'rom (27 M.) Danville coaches run to (5 M.) Poland Springs. Beyond (H2 M.) BryanVs Pond we enter a mountainous tlistrict. 70 M. Bethel. We now obtain views of the \yhite Mts. (p. 15) to the left. — 91 M. Gorham (810 ft.; Alpine Ho.. Eagle Ho.) is the chief gateway to the White Mts. from the N. — We now follow the Androscoggin. Picturesque scenery. 98 M. Berlin Falls; 134 M. ^orth Stratford (p. 15). 149 M. Island Pond is the American frontier-station (hand-baggage examined). At (166 M.) Xorton Mills we enter Canada and begin to descend the Coatico'ke. — 193 M. Lennoxville { see p. 31) is the junction of the Passumpsic Division of the Boston & Lowell U.K., and (196 M.) -S/ier- brooke (]>. 31) is the junction of the Canadian Pacific Railway to Lake Megantic^ Mo'sehead Lake, and St. John (R. 7). — We now follow the St. Francis to (221 i\I.) Riclnnond (p. 34), where our line forks, the lef ■ (main) braneh running to (76 M.) Montreal (see R. 8 b) and the right to (96 M.) Quebec (see R. 8 b.). b. Vi§. the Maine Central Railway. Railway to (2^6 M.) Montreal in 12-161/2 hra. (fare 3TV2, parlour-car $1. berth $2); to (322 31.) Qriehec in Ui/z brs. (.fare §81/2). This line tra- verses the centre of the White 3Its. (seats to the riaht; observation-cars attached to the trains in the mountain-district). Tiirouirli-cars are run from Portland to Montreal, and passengers for <^uebcc may join the through- train froml'oston at N.Conway. Fabynns, Lancaster, Colebrook, or Beecher's MONTREAL. .. .^h • ^.. '^i. '1.-. ^ ^ •-• • 1 1 --ZZ-MM -^^Ay;^ -— ■ ■ / f »• t Vuat, , '^ TT' '►r.-?; •4f. K." ^> \ <' ^/V Sxhibitlun ''- *'% ''V. : «<%.• ■ S" . ^'^^ '^ -v ■ 1 c' -^^ CytaorouuL -^^■^ ^5^ /> '>^ >-- -"^^ \-4v^/ I.:; ■ -> K*Hvii(!eie .5 L4i^ -^-1^^ - <■ y i -^ ^ Trade ;_ ^ \ \ 'i i --ii c ^':?:#^^- -V ^^'"•'iA '*-^„ ,/-^. /**""^-^.;.c,''' ''. j^.-^-^ &^. Co'- A B .%w:^ fz^ refill .5 I ^J f* -.Mpnoprtiib D 5 *• IC ^. ^..i-fTamf-yllirhi-i V.2detli (tmrcti C6i 3 . Xinvnal -Vcfiool 1) 6 | ■V.s^niinjriy'Tf' M ilitjttce F 3 : 'i.(7tatei!ii lie Rranmr(r Eli ^'■"^uiner £-Ueljes G^ci§"' t kt .» b* l.ji- IlrAeli. MONllM. M. 0. Hoiifc !•• Falls, or til' y nny cnncct vi'i North Stpatfoni with th'> (iraml Tniiik Railway (i!. Oa). I'ortland, ><■(' \>. If^. The train start- from tin- I'liinn Statifni. crosses the I'res nix f scot twice, and run- ti'war(l> tin- AV. IT M. >>- hoti't Lake: 4'.' M. l-'rue'drii. GO .M. S'irth < 'jiiu-aii. and tie nir to — '280 .M. Montreal (Windsor St. .•^tatiriii), see I!. 3d. 6. Montreal. Railway Btations. /lc:. f., 0, >t. .Tamo- Si , lui- IraiiK of the Giaii'l Tnuil< Riilnav. (eutral Virnmnt l!.l!.. Canada A At- hintii- Ky.. Id'lawaic & HurU m R.K ,' etc. : M'iridfcr HtntUn I I'l. 0, H), Winii- s ir .St.. tile chief statiiiii ol' Ihc Canadian I'ai'ifi ■ I!ailua> : li'il'ionsi- St'iti'H). (PI. E, F.i), on the li. side of the city, lor the (Jo-l.ec. Ottawa, and X. local traiii.s of the C. I'. R. — Si'aia-r.i. see below. — Cnf'S. -ee lu'low. The oiu- iiibu«e» of the chjel hotels lueel the train* i'nd steamers (fare 2.") c). Hotels, ' WiNi'Soi! ( I'i. a ; C,6), excih iillv -ituat'l in Dominion Square, with 8'J'n.ea.s. ^i^lf'^; St. I.awi:kn< k IIai.i. ("i'l. is D, K. ,'0, St. James St.. well .-poken of, ;j:ooa cui-iro-. S 3-4: 'Q; i- :kn s Hotfl (!■;. c: I>, 6i. cor. of Windsor .^t. rnd .S^.Tanici >t . oppo.site the Bonavenfi^r- Station, S'-"/:; -i'/'j: niciiKLiKf (I'l. il: K, i), St. Vinc.nt St., a French house, .S2' 2 3'/.': lUi.- .MoKAL (I'l. e: 1>. Ui, Notre Dame St., SJ-3: CiTV II.'Ti.i. fPl. fi D. 6). n-\t door to lhi> lis*, $ D -.-S' ,'•.;: Rir.M^KAis (Pi. j: ; i:, 4 1, 5~ J icqin's (.'artier S.] , .S7-21/.. — r.oarditii; ll'.oi-e- i S (i-lo a week i : Mr.<. Keit IHI Jle'calfe St.; Mrs //I'pgood. 40 McGill ('u'leg' Ave.; Mrs l:iiiifiil<. .\venue 11. nsi', IT JIc(m11 C'llleLC Ave. l.odiin:;s are also easily (irociind Restaur.ants. • IVe/jtii ('-/e', tM>one:;ani --^t. ftaih' 'rhoie 40c V. Bc. 3' J). — 2. KivF.R Stkamkks. hel'iuginsl t" the Itiehelieu i dntari'i Xavi^iation Cii. (228 St. Paul St.). the (.Ottawa Co. (ST f'ommon St.). and other lines', ply res-oilarly I'rom Montreal up or down the St. l.awLence ' i Qi/eb''C (see R. 8c). Tkn-e Ricrs (p. .a), th SagnrH'iii (11. 12), Bctcihuni.is (\i. IS7), Cvruicall (\>. 186), Kiu'jfton (R.4il), 'Joronto{f. 153;. and .'Iher ji^rts ; up the Oita wa t > (.'■ )-i7e« (p. 143) and O.'taira (p. Ii3.): to p.irts on the rivers RicheKeu (p. l") and Yainiska (p. 34) etc — 3. Lahoku Stkameiis run to Cli't.-lot'el'fU'u. Piclo/', and at. Jo/ni's (Newfoun Hand), and 1 1 otloT p irt; in (Ja'pe. th'.' Bale .les Cha- leurs. the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Prince Kdward Island, an.i Caiie B:-. ton (lUack Diamond Line, (^aetiec Steamship Line, etc.). — 4. Ocean Stka.mkhs run ti Liverpool (All.'in Line. D 'mini in Line, Reaver Lin;;, etc.: comp. E. la), to (7;(/,t7i'(f (Allati Line; cunp. R. 1 c). Vi Lcn'tmi, to Bristol, to //-crt- b'lrj, t 1 .-i'lltar/'. and t'l o'lier tran-a'lantic ports. Amusements. A.-aUmy of Musi- (PL 2; C, 5), Victoria St., the chief theatre of .>lontreal; Q'it'en''s Theatr,:. St. Catherine St.: Op'ra Frawyds, 1889 St. ("atherine St., with French stock company; T.'^cntre Ro'iril (PJ. D, 5), C ite' St. — Sohmer Part, in Notre Dam > St., on th'; hank i i river. a sort of 'al fresco' music hall, with vanety entertainment' a h 'd hy electric car; aim. lOc. inenaseri ■ lUc. extra). — Cuc:>'rama ; li 4,. St. 20 Route 6. . MONTREAL. Post Office. Catherine St. — Conserts are given by the MendeUsohn Choir and the Phil- harmonic Socitty. — Victoria Skating Rink, Drummond St., with a sheet of ice 200 ft. long and 80 ft. wide (skating carnivals and masquerades in winter; concerts in summer); Crystal Skating Rink (^\.G^1% Dorchester St. ; Dominion Skating Rink (PI. D, 4), St. Dominique St. — Tobogganing is enjoyed in winter at the Fi'rk Slide (PI. A, 6), ou the W. slope of Mt. Royal Park. — Lacrosse, the Canadian national game fcomp. p. Ivii). may bp well seen at the grounds of the Montreal Amnteur Athletic Association (PI. C, 6) or of the S/iamrock Club (matches usually on Sat. in summer and autumn). — Ca- ledonian Curling Rink, Burnside Place ; Thistle Curling Rink, Ste. Monique St. (PI. C, D, 6): Montreal Curling Club. — The Montreal Snow-Shoe Club ('Tuque Bleue'j gives torch-light parades in winter from McGill College Gates to Uutremont (picturesque blanket uniform). Other snowshoe clubs are Le Trappeur (the chief French snowshoe club), St. George'' s (with a goou club-house on the mountain), Argyle, Holly, Emerald, and La Cana- dienfie. — The *Ice Carnival in winter (not held every year) affords a bril- liant and unique spectacle (ice-palace, etc.). — Yachting and Boating are carried on on the St. Lawrence at Longaeuil (p. 30), Ste. Anne (p. 150), Lachine (p. 187), etc. ; and there are also clubs for Cricket, Golf (grounds near the Mountain Elevator, p. 28), Foot-ball, Bicyling, Tennis, etc. — The Montreal Hunt Club claims to be the best in America (meets thrice weekly in Sept. -Dec. ; wild fox). The fine Kennels of the club are at 403 De Lori- mier Ave. — Horse-Racing is carried on, in summer and autumn, at the Blue Bonnets Track and the Bel-Air Racecourse, both reached by railway. Exhibitions of Paintings are held in the Art Gallery (p. 26). Among the best private collections are those of 'Sir Donald Smith, Mr, Van Home, Mr. R. B. Angus, and the Hon. George Drummond. Newspapers. The following are among the chief papers published at Montre>»l. Engli.'h : The Gazette, founded in 1777 and published continuously since 1795, is the oldest still existing paper in Canada (Conservative; 3c.): The Herald (Liberal; 3c.); The Star (Ic); The Witness (Ic); The True Witness (Irish and Home Rule; 5c.). French: La Miner v e (Couaerv,', Ic); La Patrie (Lib. ; ic); La Presse (Con. -. 1 c); Le Monde (Con. ; Ic); L Aurore (French Prot. weekly; 2c.). — Numerous weekly, monthly, and quarterly periodicals are also published in both languages. Clubs. St. Jfime.t (PI. 8; C, 5), 831 Dorchester St.; Metropolitan (PI. 7; D, 5), 57 Beaver Hall Hill; City Club. St. James St. ; SI Denis Club, St. Denis St. ; Club Conadien de Montreal, 350 Lagauchetiere St. ; Cosmopolitan Club, cor. of University and Cathcart Sts. (PI. C, 2); Montreal Press Club, 48 St. James St. — Montreal Amateur Athletic Association , 149-153 Mansfield St. (PL C, 6), with gymnasium , library, etc. (strangers admitted for one week on introduction by amembei'); grounds, with cinder-track and club- house, on St. Catherine St. West (comp. above). United States Consulate, 246 St. James St. Fur Shops. Henderson, Robertnon, St. James St. ; Samuel, St, Catherine St. Photographs of Canadian scenery, etc., may be obtained of William Aot- man <(■ Son, Birks Building, Phillips Square, opposite the English Cathedral. Baths. Turki.'ih Batiks, 140 Ste. Monique 3t (Turkish bath $ i ; plunge or swimming baih 25 c) ; Laurention Baths, 204-210 Craig St. ; plunge baths at the y. M. C A. Building (p. 25), Dominion Sq.; Swimming Baths on St. Hel'jii s Island. Post Office (PL E, 5), St. James St., open 7.30-7 (mails to Great Bri- tain four times weekly, to the United States twice daily; comp. p. xxii). Postage for city letters 2 c. — Telegraph Offices. Great Northwestern Tel- egraph Co., 50 St. Francois Xavier St.; ' tadian Pacific Railway Co.^s Telegraph, 4 Hospital St.', both with man. > .nch-offices. — Bell Telephone Co., 3U St. John St. — • Dominion Expren\Salieros Regiment, with which he did much to break the power of the Indians. By 167'2 the town bad a population of 150U souls, and it soon became the entrepot of the fur-traoe v.ith the West and the starting- point of numerous military and exploring expeditions (La Salle, .loliet, Hennepin, etc), earning a true claim to the title of "Mother of Cities'. In 1685 the city wa« surrounded by a wooden palisade 16 ft. high, which was replaced in 1721-26 by a bastionod wall and ditch; the citadel (p. 24) was also built at this time. [The wall ran from Victoria Sq. (PI. I), 5, 6) to Dalliousie Sq. (PI. E, 4), in the course indicated by the present For- tification Lane (PI. D, 5), and extended down to the river on each side.] Montreal, then containing 400(^ inhab. , was the last place in Canada held by the French, but was surrendered to the English a year after ibe capture of ^'^ebec (Sept., 1760). In 1775-76 the city was occupied by the troops of the Continent;^ .^ ^ - LPhttoiiirnp ■; -1^ / Ml* i.- iL.nla. "^-^ L Konuiiiii •"^ \ V-i l^luOi-up ^^: I. UtteVmoTUje '-^ ' - Sf(^tlmel ode % r rey Y, CadsttesSta O ,b/?^' ■iK oJkWlaine -T^rreb sCamer ■■ ' ^. f rcaiAUekSia (rfi'^'« S*escfioiafti(fue 2)72 0" ^r^'^Mrni/i — . ^„^, ■ I Gten ijobiTrsanTa'uin'uiLfi MurCOe O 'ieUi(/i AppleSE'^' Jkrer'Hsca^it^^ ■. 7 ^ Jtmfitrme ^o^ ^0?^ -i,^'*^ '^ Q^Rtmi 'I- " '' o'' ■ / jMaiopo oua*4^yL, /^aisay r^.^ tpwii >1 K«!l "Wa^iier *• Debes ' iy^-o^ Esiab' Leipzig ■Albaiw" eJ" Statute Viles. i:2) UVbkulin\f kpnke ( fclf Beaiidet 1-4- rf-H^ pf(,;^(itisnm T.ifattiTvitn XJ-ong :; Riiekinac T-'o^ C: ^J fart7icuJJ>fa. rj^f^"^ S^VulitrStiL^ e » J)r'srJuonJjau/t »^ .C^ ^S'Ariselrrii- iMurdes >e^**=^ jra. ieaurivxige "^ \.^ 'A St Silri'.s'lrr JjafMc X y^ jVZ«y,^27UPkt«**^S^ o Sbnierset. '[ f Robe/tsonstaa <^F \ Vl '* I ^> .. V S'.PrihciS" 1 1*Banarr 'srtiertfs | sfEeii'ne SeMagot Tmxftm o ^ OS jro^* ^^JJannOf^ Ill's /^.^..W^^^-Zto^^^; .5^. actnthP J^^S**^ MZbourrw^p^ ffeedark^ 'jdi/,umd Eoffi DudswfH oWindsorJbTls Oy 'amt^Mi^s \ o ■ SPStmxiuLde ^(pring^ i I! sl^tAaire 1 'StJolirisi ( * S<^(J^aire Qrtmbr Waarloo ' I'asinum J'"^*' ---,^^'**^fsau!rl.^okp/ V ^x. Srn7^>(anf'aV.f q ..Aobmsan \ Jco^JifOHT? /iaJWrif^^^ -(^ . .,i^^to^^_^ O^ad ll_-^^^ HAsM r - o '■ ^Si/OwJiitf .OmJiani ^ o ■iitptri JtarisofiT - — •> .J^.Berks7are .K^ L S"fl' )000. L tirTg-^MS a:- E^ Kiloiti^tres. THREE RIVERS. 8. Route. 33 Reach' of the St. John River (I. ; comp. p. 130 ) for some distance, and we finally enter the city by a fine cantilever bridge, crossing the river just above the Suspension Bridge (p. 129), 481 M. St. John, see R. 22. 8. From Montreal to Quebec. a. Vis. the North Shore of the St. Lawrence. 172 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in 6V2-8 brs. (fare $3.50; sleeper $ 1.5U; parlour-car 75c.J. This is the shortest and most direct route be- tween the two cities. The trains start from the Dalhousie Sq. Station, connection in some cases being made from Windsor St. Station. Montreal^ see p. 19. The train passes the suburban station of (1 M.) Hochelaga [p. 21), crosses the 'Back River' at (10 M.) Sault- au-Recollet (p. 30) , and diverges to the right (E.~) from the main transcontinental line at (12M.) a small city of 6669 inhab., lies at the mouth of the Richelieu (pp. 10, 14, 34), 3* 36 Route 8. LAKE ST. PETER. carries on a considerable country tra;le, and possesses sevrral ship- building yards and foundries. It is named from Capt. De Sorel of the Salieres-Carignan Regiment (p. 22) , who built a fort here in 1665. Good fishing and snipe -shooting are obtained in the neigh- bourhood. — Opposite lies Berthier (p. 33). From Sorel a branch of t' . C.P.R. runs to (11 M.) St. Giiilhtume. (p. 14), Farnham (08 M. ^ p. 14), and (&; M.j Staiibridge. Near (10 M.) Yamaska., on this railvvay , are Abenakis Springs (Abcnakis House, $2. bath 30 e.), a summer-resort, also reached by steamer up the St. Francois f.«ee below). Beyond Sorel the St. Lawrence expands into Lake St. Peter, 25 M. long and 9 M. vide. The lake is shallow, but a deep channel has been dredged through it. Huge timber-rafts may be met here. 57 M. (r.) ^t. FranQois. at the mouth of the river of that name. — 65 M. (1.) LouisevitU (p. 33). 76 M. (r.) Nicoletf (Canada Hotel, $ IV2), with 2518inhab. and a large college, lies at the mouth of the river of its own name (p. 34). Nearly opposite is Pointe du Lac, at the upper end of Lake St. Peter. 88 M. (1.) Three Elvers (see p. 33) lies at the mouths of the St. Maurice and at the head of tide-water, about midway between Montreal and Quebec. Opposite lies Doucet's Landing (p. 34 ; ferry). 104 M. (1.) Champlain. ~ 109 M. (I.) Baiiscan (p. 34), with two lighthouses. — 116 M. (1.) Ste. Anne de la Perade, with a large church. — 124 M. (r.) St. Jean des Chaillons. — 129 M. (1.) Gron- dines. — 137 M. (t.) Lotbiniere. — 138 M. (1.) iJeschamhault (p. 34). 143 M. (1.) Portneuf. Opposite is Poin. Platon, near which is the residence of the Hon. H. G. Joly de Lccbiniere. The river bends to the right and forms the Richelieu Rapid. . The scenery improves , the Laurentide Mts. (p. 33) approaching .he river on the left. 153 M. (1.) Les Ecureuila, near the m(tuth of the Jacques Cartier River (p. 34). 160 M. (i.) Pointe aux Trembles^ a small village where many Quebec ladies took refuge during the siege of the city by Wolfe (1759) and were captured by his grenadiers (comp. J. M. Le Maine's 'Tour- ist's Note-book'). 167 M. (1.) St. Augustin. — 173 M. (1.) Cap Rouge (pronounced 'Carouge') lies at the mouth of the river whose valley forms the W. boundary of the Quebec plateau (comp. p. 48). Jacques Cartier wintered here in 1540-41, and Roljerval made an unsuccessful at- tempt to establish a settlement here a few months later (see p. 39). About 1500 of Wolfe's troops descended with the tide from Cap Rouge to Wolfe's Cove on the morning of Sept. 13th, 1759 (p. 39). Nearly opposite is the mouth of the Chaudiere (p. 35). Quebec now soon comes into sight, magnificently situated on a rocky plateau rising perpendicularly from the river. To the left, at Siller J , is Wolfe's Cove (p. 39) , where the famous landing was ef- f The final t is sounded by the French Canadians in proper names of this kind. XautcaJniSt. CfuirJ*vois ■?{. S'MlIe'P^ut St. Brrboeut' St ^ :j <» -t nSemard t'onventoriho Sacrrrt Heart ^"^^ . Bonarer^Um-.n n'ne Si. •yi " 'ill'"' *•' K"' r>\" fi "-< (ieiicrai S ^. o \ - <- e: ?i-J. '^s .rrH J*1!t. v'f /• ^'•^ " '^t ? sA^^K-^^'^-V^ii^f^Xt:^:^^^ ■■'ilSi M ''*''''' .i.i!.\'.itMi';V//,,„, o /^ c * M^ ^«r^L^^^7^^ -^ .J-i sr umiik,,,,::: St. S[ Martello .^ Ln pj. .A Tthur Brewer Tj^inci' vPremfrnt \7l r. n-eniont Zagun/e St. ^ Ton G r 4 71 d eV,ate^4 lie S Race yourse ^^? ^-^f^^-^'\ | ,i|)|i, ,fe i;^"^L^Jg!^^ jV. , . ' Lacrosse ^Cemy , 5« • . • (jrounds Stlkiaget's ^s ^ yjf^: ^•^^-^c^ '^^V'/',,/'' a:.^ r^ "/•/^js Sta. ^' ^^- r^^^^ I & .^ v^ ¥ •k^* ? Motel \\, •'^- ''zrBesnste ,'0) '^ <>« ■oniii:< ">.. v^^ oint a Carey ?*Iiaiidl Sta^e / / 1 rhurcli •yTva ^ ,„„ • :mni... y'"'., •':' fSill^- ^<' ^M^^ .Ai^w- r?. ■■■■% ^^.o-^ (itadel xv,<:,^j .1 ^ > ■. «^w4 ^'. Leii.t Feny rJ'-^.jrXxyr E ^r 's. <>, G , Jt- Hotels. QUEBEC. 9. Route. 37 fected fnl7o9. The cove may be identified from the steamer by the tall chimney standing at its mouth. The N. shore is lined with timber 'booms" and rafts. As we pass Cape Diamond we see, high up on the cliff , a large inscription indicating the spot, on the road below, where Montgomery fell (p. 39). Opposite is Point Levis (p.48). 180 M. Quebec, see below. 9. Quebec. Arrival. Travellers arriving by the Railway of the North Bank (R. 8a) run into the Canadian Pacific Hailway Station (PI. E, 3), on the N. side of the city. Pasflengers by the S. Shore Line (R. 8b) are ferried across from L4vi$ (p. 48) to the Ferrii Wharf (PI. F, 4). The St. Lawrence River Steamers (R. 8c.) lie to at the Champlain Market Wharf (PI. F, 4). These are in the lower part of the town, from which the upper town, with the hotels, etc., is reached by steep streets or flights of steps crossing the lines of fortification. Hotel Omnihvses (25 c.) and Cabs (see below) meet all the chief trains and steamers. Hotels. Chdttan Frontenae (PI. a; F. 4), a palatial structure, on Duffi'rin Terrace, opened in 1893, $3i/2-S; St. Lonit (PI. b ; E, 4), St. Louis St., from $27i; 'Florence (PI. c ^ 1), 3), St. .Tohn St., outside the walls, a pleasant French house, with good cuisine and fine view from the hack-windows, $21/2-31/2; Royal Albion (PI. e; E,3), Palace St., $2; Hencheft (PI. d ; F, 4), St. Anne St.; BlanchariVs (PI. f; F,4), in the Lower Tdw^n. facing Notre Dame des Victoires (p. 46), Sl^a-Si Quebec House, "Bridge St., St. Koch, com- mercial — Boarding Houses ($8-10 a week): Miss Lane., 65 Ste. Anne St. (comp. p. 44); Miss Leonard., 3 St. Louis St.; Mrs. Bickell. 67 Ste. Anne St.; Hill^ opposite the Albion Hotel; Pension Frechette^ near the Academy of Music; and many others. Furnished Lodgings are also obtainable. Kestaurants. At the hotels; Chien d^Or, opposite the Post Office (comp. p. 43); Qufibec Club, Upper Town; Bellevue Club, Ste. Foye Road; Club Venddme, St. Roch; Commercial. St. Peter St. Tramways run from ihQ Champlain Market (PL F, 4), through St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Josepti Streets, to the St. Sauveur Toll (31/2 M.), and from, the Post Office (PI. F, 4) , through Buade. Fabrique, and St. John Streets (Upper Town), to the Ste. Foye Road (fare 5 c). Carriages ('Wagons') with twc horses, within the town, per drive, from one ward to another, 1-2 pers. 50 c, 3-4 pers. 75 c; if one or more inter- vening wards be passed through, 60 c, 75 c. ; per hour $ 1 and $ I1/4. With one horse, 25 c., U)c., 40 c., 60 c, 75 c., $ 1. The Caliche (or calash) is a curio'is high two-wheeled vehicle for two persons, with the driver perched on a narrow ledge in front. For each trunk 10 c. ; smaller articles free. Fare and a half between midnight and 4 a.m. Longer drives according to bargain. The drivers ('carters') urge the horses by the cry 'marche donc\ The best carriages are obtained in the Upper Town, the cheapest in the Lower Town. Ferries ply every 10 min. (wharf, PI. F. 4) to LMs (fare 3 c. in sum- mer, 10 c. in winter) and at frequent intervals to Sillery (p. 46; 10 c), St. Romuald (p. 48), and the Isle of Orleans (p. 48). Steamers run regularly from Quebec to Montreal (daily, at 5 p.m.; R. 8c.); to Qasp4 (p. 67), Charlottetown (p. 96), Summerside (p. 97), and Pictou (p. 85); to the Saguenay (R. 12): to various small ports on the St. Lawrence; to Liverpool and Glasgow (see R. i) ; to London ; to Bermuda and the West Indies, etc. Shops. Furrie s: Renfrew dt Co., Buade St.; Paquet, St. Joseph St. — Booksellers: Holiwell, opposite the Post Office; Dawson dt Co., near the foot of Mountain Hill; Wright, Walsh, Moore, all in St. John St.; Miller, St. Peter St. — Sporting and Fishing Gear: Chinic Hardware Co., foot of Mountain Hill; Bazar dn Vopageur, opposite St. Louis Hotel; Shaw & Co.., St. John and Sous-le-Fort Sts. Places of Amusement Academy of Mmic (PI. E , 4) , next door to the St. Louis Hotel; Jaciue* Cwtier Sail, St. Roch. 38 Route 9. QUEBEC. Situation. An Elevator (3 c. •, PI. F, 4) runs from Champlain St. (Lower Town) to Dufferin Terrace. Post Office (PI. F, 4) , at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. (8-4). The best local guidebook of Quebec is that by E. T. D. Chambers. Quebec, superbly situated on a promontory formed by tlie con- fluence of the St. Lawrence and the St. Ch-rles^ is, perliaps, the most picturesque city in Nortli America, appealing at once to the most blase tourist by the striking boldness of its site, the romance of its history, and the extraordinary contrast of its old-world appearance and population with the new world around it. It consists of a Lower Town., lying on the nariow strips of level land fringing tlie river banks, and of an Ipper Town, perched on the top of a rocky bluil, rising almost vertically on both sides to a height of 200-350 ft. above the water. [Tlie name 'Lower Town", however, does not technically include the large disiricts of St. Roch and St. Sauveur ; comp.pp. 47, 48.] In shape the city is a triangle, bounded by the two rivers and the liains of Abraham (p. 45). The older portion of the Upper Town is still surrounded by a massive wall, but the city has now spread considerably to the W. of the forti- iications. At the S. angle of the wall, on the liighest point of the plateau, is the famous Citadel (p. 41). 'Unexampled for picturesqueness and magnificence of position on the American continent, and for the romance of her historic asaociations, (Quebec sits on her impregnable heights a queen among the cities of the New World. At her feet flows the noble St. Lawrence, the lit highway into a great empire, here narrowed to a couple of miles' breadth (really less than 1 31. — Editor), though lower down the waters widen to a score of miles, and at the gulf to a hundred. From the compression of the great river at this spot the city derives its name, the word signifying, in the native Indian tongue, the Strait. On the east of the city , along a richly fertile valley, flows the beautiful St. Charles, to join its waters with those of the great river. The mingled waters divide to enclasp the fair and fertile Isle of Orleans. Tlie city as seen from a distance rises stately and solemn , like a grand pile of monumental buildings. Clustering houses, tall, irregular, with high - pitched roofs, crowd the long line of shore and climb the rocky heights. Great piles of stone churches, colleges, and public buildings, crowned with gleaming minarets, rise above the mass <>f dwellings. The clear air permits the free use of tin for the roofs and spires, and the dark stone-work is relieved with gleaming light. Above all rise the long dark lines of one of the world's famous citadels, the Gibraltar of America. Then, still below, the shores are lined with warehouses, and quays, and masses of shipping. All the surrounding waters are filled with sails; the scene is one of sunlight and life. Steamers with their lilmy lines of smoke, pass up and down the river, or rapidly across, or tug with much noise and short breath the heavy xafts of wood, acres wide, covered with hut villages , that float down from the inland waters. At Pointe Levy, opposite the citadel, lie stranded or lazily floating incalculable masses of this lumber, waiting for transit to the British Isles, South America, or Australia.' (Charles Marshall.) Quebec is the third city of the Dominion of Canada, containing 63,090 inhab. in 1891. Of these five-sixths were French and Roman Catholic. The chief business of the city is the exportation of timber (comp. p. 47), and large quantities of grain and cattle are History. QUEBEC. 9. Route. 39 also exported. It is the port of entry of the Atlantic steamers in sum- mer, and the landing-place of immigrants. Various manufactures are carried on in St. Roch. The streets, as a rule, are narrow and ir- regular, and the quaint houses resemble those of tlie older French provincial towns. The best sliops are in St. Joseph St. and Crown St., in St. Roch, and in or near St. John St., Fabrique St., and Buade St., in the Upper Town. History. In historic interest Quebec almo<'t rivals 15ost'>n among the cities of the New World, and it excels tlie New England city in the f.-ut that its historic sites are constantly in view and have not been obscured by later alterations. When Jacques Cartier (see n. 21) ascended the St. Lawrence in 1535 he found the Indian town of St'idacona (^narrowin" of the river') occupying part of the present site of Quebec, and spent the winter in huts erected near the Dorchester Bridge (PI. E, 1). On returning to France he carried with him the chief Donnacona, who unfortunately died in Europe. On his second visit, in 1541, Cartier wintered at Cap Rouge (p. 36). An unsuccessful attempt at settlement was made by the Sieur de Roberval in 15i9. The real founder of (Quebec was Champlain (p. 21 ; comp. p. 43), who in i6J8 established a small post here, which gradually added agricultural settlers to the original fur- traders. In 1629 the little set- tlement was captured by Sii' David Kirke (or KerkI), but it was restored to France three years later. In 1663 Quebec contained about 8(X) inhabitants. A little later (1690 and 1711) two unsuccessful attempts were made by English fleets to capture the flourishing little French city. In the lirst case Sir William Phipps, Governor of Massachusetts, was detied by Governot' FroiUenac and retired without doing serious damage. In 1711 the fleet under Sir Hoveden Walker was wrecked at Egg Island (p. 2; comp. p. 92). In 1759, however, (Quebec linally came into the possession of Great Britain through the daring of Guneral Wolfe.. The British lleet, under Adm. Saunders, anchored otf the Island of Orleans (p. 48) on June 26th. The French army under the Marquis de Montcalm., 13.000 strong, Wiis en- camped on the shore at Heaitport (p. 4'J). Gen. Moncton seized the heiifhts of Levis and from them bombarded the city. On July 31st Wolfe landed to the E. of the River Montmorency (p. 50), attacked the French lines, and was repulsed with heavy losses. A long delay then ensued owing to Wolfe's illness, but on the night of Sept. 12-I3th "the English troops stole up the river in boats under cover of the darkness, passed below the guns of the citadel, etlected a landing at Sillery (p. 46), sciled the apparently inaccessible clifl's, surprised and overpowered the French sentinels, and formed their line of battle on the Plains of Abraham (p. 45). Montcalm hastened across the St. Charles, and battle was joined by 10 a.m. (Sept. 13th). Both leaders, as is well known, fell on the tield, Wolfe dying on the spot (p. 46), while Montcalm, mortally wounded, was carried into Quebec (p. 46). T.ie British were successful after a short struggle; the French troops re- treated to Cap Rouge, and the city surrendered on Sept. 18th. According to Kingsford the numbers actually engaged (Indians not included) were S'^OO Bri- tish and 5500 French, the latter partly raw militia. The following spring Gen. Murray.^ who was left in Quebec with a considerable garrison, was defeated on the Plains of Abraham by a French army of 10,000 men under De Livis and was besieged behind the city-walls until relieved by an English fleet on May loth. Comp. Parkman^s 'Wolfe and Montcalm', the Ahhi Cas- grain^s 'Montcalm et Levis', Vol. V. of Kingsford's 'History of Canada', and J. M. Le Moines 'Maple Leaves' (Second Series). In 1775 Gen. Benedict Arnold ni«de his famous march through the Ghaudiere Valley (p. 16) and reached the Heights of Abraham by the way Wolfe had pointed out (Nov. 14th). On Dec. 1st he was joined by Gen. Montgomery ., who took the command; and on Dec. 31st the Americans made a determined but vain attempt to take the city, Montgomery falling before a barricade in Champlain St. (see p. 37). Comp. Vol. VI. of Kings- ford^s 'History of Canada'. Since then the history of Quebec has been comparatively uneventful, 40 Route 9. , QUEBEC. Dufferin Terrace. though it has been visited by many destructive conflagrations and by several severe epidemics of cholera. For some years it wa3 the capital of United Canada fp. xxv), and in the old Parliament House here, in 1864, took place the famous Confederation Debate , following the congress at Charlottetown (p. 96). The progress of Quebec has been by no means so ra- pid as that of other large Canadian and American towns, its population rising slowly from 42,05'2 in 1852 to 62,446 in 1881 , since which it has been practically stationary. The 'Royal William', the first vessel to cross the Atlantic wholly under steam (1833), was built at Quebec in 1831. The Province of Quebec has an area of 228.900 sq. 31. (larger than France or Germany), with an extreme length of 1000 M. and an extreme width of 400 M. lu shape it is roughly triangular, the base abutting to the S.W. on Ontario while the apex extends to the N. to the Strait of Belle Isle. On the E. it is bounded by New England and New Brunswick, while to the N. and N.W. its frontier is somewhat indefinite. The St. Lawrence divides it into two very unequal parts, the portion cut ofl' to the S.E. of the river being only a])Out 50,000 sq. M. in extent. The most fer- tile part of the province is the plain of the St. Lawrence, of which 10.000 sq. M. are within Quebec^ and the ordinary cereals and roots, hay, apples, plums , and various other crops are succe.ssfully cultivated. To the N. extends the huge and rocky Laurentian plateau, with its vast forests and innumerable lakes. To the S.E. of the St. Lawrence is the extension of the Appalachian system known as the Notre Dame Range, presenting an undulating surface and comprising much land suitable for agriculture or cattle-raising. Agriculture is the chief occupation of the population, and the lumber-business is also important. The province contains no coal, hut a'^bestos, phosphates of lime, copper, gold, iron, and other metals are ob- tained in larger or smaller quantities. Fishing is carried on in the Culf and Estuary of St. Lawrence. The manufactures of the province, which are steadily increasing in importance, include leather, cloth, cotton and woollen goods, iron and liardware, sugar, chemicals, soap, etc. In 1891 their tot.O value was $153,195,189. The trade of Quebec, owing to its po- sition on the St. Lawrence, is very important. Other large navigable streams are the Ottawa, ihe Richelieu, the St. Maurice, and the Saguenay. In 1891 Quebec contained 1,488,535 inhab., about four-fifths of whom were French. — Quebec was originally settled by the French (comp. pp. 21, 39, 67), and it was not till after the American Revolution that any large num- ber of British colonists established themselves here (comp, p. 31). At the time of the British conquest (1763) the name of Quebec extended to the whole of Canada or New France, outside of he Acadian provinces; but in 1791 it was divided into the two provinces of Upper and Lower Canada (comp. p. 155). These were re-united, as the Province of Canada, in 1841, and in 1S67, on the establii^hment of Confederation, the province of Quebec assumed its i)resent name and form. Perhaps the most notable fact in the later history of the province has ])een the extraordinary increase of the French Canadians, who did not number more than 70,000 at the cesfiion of Canada. Large numbers of them have migrated to New England. The stranger in Quebec should undoubtedly begin his visit with a wallt round the walls and the view from Dufferin Terrace. *Dufferin Terrace (PI. E, F; 6, 4) consists of a huge wooden plat- form, 1/4 M. long and 50-70 ft. wide, erected on tlie edge of the cliffs on the S.E. side of the city, 185 ft. above the Lower Town and the St. Lawrence. Part ot it occupies the site of the old Chateau of St. Louis^ built by Champlain in 1620 and burned down in 1834. The site was levelled and the first platform was erected by the Earl of Durham, but the Terrace was rebuilt and enlarged in the governor- ship of the Earl of Dufferin and opened to the public in 1879 by the Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise. The N. end, however, Citadel. QVEBEC. 9. Route. 41 is still sometimes called the Durham Terrace. On the Terrace are tlve kiosks and a band-stand (frequent conr^erts). The S. end of the Ter- race is railci' "^ff as dangerous, a disastrous landslide having occurred here '.i 1889. >n the W. Dufferin Terrace is adjoined by the Gover- nor's Garden (PI. E, 4), with the Wolfe and Montcalm Monument. erected in 1827 and bearing the neat epigrammatic Latin inscription : Mortem Virtus Communem Famam Historia Monumentum Posteritas Dedit The **View from Dufferin Terrace is superb. At our feet are the winding streets of the Lower Town, including Champlain St., \vhere Mont- gomery fell (p. 39). Beyond is the noble St. Lawrence, here about 1 M. wide, with its fleets of tr;iding vessels and steamers, its wharves and docks, its timber rafts and 'coves'. On the opposite side rise the heights of Z^ww (p. 48), with three huge forts (that to the right alone distinctly visible) and its conspicuous churches and convents. Looking towards the left (N.E.), we see the confluence of the St. Lawrence and tiie St. Charles and the fertile Isle d'Orleans (p. 48). Several villages are visible along the banks of the St. Lawrence, with Cape Toiirmente (p. 57) looming dimly in the distance (35 M.). A cloud of mist marks the site of the Mont- morency Falls (p. 50). Behind these (to the N.) rise the Laurentide Mtt. (p. 83). Immediately to the N. of the Terrace are the Post Ofjice and Laval Vniversitu. Among the most conspicuous buildings in the Lower Town arf Champlain Market (p. 47) immediately at our feet; the church of Notre Dame des Virtoires (p. 46), just to the N.; and the Custom House (p. 47), at the month of the St. Charles. This view should be seen, not only by daylight, but in the dusk and also after the city lights art', lit. The Elevator mentioned at p. 38 adjoins the N. end of the Terrace. At the S. end of Dnfferin Terrace, ailjoining Cape Diamond., the highest point of the plateau (350 ft.), stands the Citadel (PI. E, 4, 5), a strong fortification, covering 40 acres of ground and dating in its present form from 1828. It is entered by a road diverging from St. Louis St. at St. Louis Gate (see PI.E, 4,5), ascending across the glacis to the Chain Gate, and then leading along the trenches. It may be reached from the S. end of Dufferin Terrace by paths ascending across the green glacis and steps descending to the moat through a redoubt. No order of admission is now required, but at the Dal- housie Gate, leading from the moat to tlie inner works, the visitor is met by a soldier to act as guide (fee discretionary). The present Fortifications of Quebec were constructed in 1820-30, sub- stantially on the lines of the French works of 1620. In the French period there were apparently three City Gates, two of which, the St. John and St. Louis Gates, are now represented by modern structures, while the Palais Gate has been entirely swept away. Tbe Hope and Prescott Gates were added by the Englisli, but no longer exist. Kent Gate, tn which the Queen contributed, is wholly modern. See also below. The Citadel and other fortifications of Quebec are by no means equal to the demands of modern warfare, and a system of detached forts has been planned, of which those at Levis (p. 48) have been completed. Since the withdrawal of the British troops in 1871 the Citadel has been garrisoned by Canadian militiamen. It encloses a large parade and drill ground, 42 acres in extent, surrounded by barracks and magazines under the walls. Numerous heavy guns are mounted on the ramparts. In the centre is a diminutive cannon captured at Bunker Hill (1775). The 42 Route 9. QUEBEC. Anglican Cathedral. large stone building is the Officeri' Quarters^ at the E. end of which, over- looking tlie river, is the Oovernor- General' t Residence, usua''y occupied by him for short visits every year. The W. Rampart f overlook the Plains of Abraham (p. 45), and the **View^ from the Kin(f$ Bastion, at the N.E. angle of the ramparts, rivals that from DutJerin Terrace. We now return to the St. Louis Gate (PI. E, 4), a handsome structure in a medieval style erected on the site of the old gate in 1878-9, ascend the steps, and begin here our rircuit of the *Walls (3 M.). To the right, within the wall?, lies the P^splanade [FL E, 4), with a few mortars and dismounted cannon. To the left rises the large new Parliament Buildiny (p. 45). In about 4 min. we reach the Kent Gate (PI. E, 4), a Norman structure erected in 1879 to relieve the pressure of traffic ( see p. 41). It was named in honour of the Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria, who lived in Quebec from 1791 to 1794. To the left is the Montcalm Market (PI. E, 3), to the right the Church of' the Congregation, one of the oldest in the city. We now obtain a view , in front , of the St. Charles River and the Laurentide Mts. Beyond the *St. John Gate (PI. E, 3), erected in 1867, we have to leave the walls for a space, this angle of the fortifications being occupied for Govern- ment purposes. We regain the line of the walls at Palace St., where we cross the gap left by the removal of the old Palace Gate (Pl.E, 3; see p. 41) and have the huge mass of the Hotel Dieu (p. 44) to the right. As we proceed we overlook the quaint Lower Town, with its narrow streets anil numerous factories. Famille St. marks the site of the old Hope Gate (PI. F, 3; see p. 41). A little farther on (about 1/4 hr.'s walk from ot. John's Gate) we reach the *Grand Battery (PI. F, 4) at the N.E. angle of the walls, on the cliff named Sault-au- Mitelot^ another fine point of view, overlooking the Do<-ks and the confluence of the river?. Behind us. at this point, arc the solid buildings of Laval University (p. 43). Our course now leads towards the S. and soon brings us back to Dufferin Terrace and the Citadel (see p. 41). The Prescott Gate (p. 41) was at Mountain Hill St. (PI. F, 4). At the N. end of the Dufferin Terrace stands the new Chateau Frontenac Hotel (p. 37) , a large and handsome building in the French Baronial style, of light-red brick, with copper roofs. It occupies the approximate site of the old French Chateau of St. Louis (p. 40), a stone from which, bearing a Maltese cross, has been immured above the main entrance. This faces the Pi.ace u'Armks (PI. F. 4) , the parade-ground and fashionable promenade of the French period. On the AV. side of the Place is the Anglican Cathe- dral (PI. F, 4), a plain edifice of 1804, with a spire 150 ft. high. It contains mural memorials to Bishop Mountain , first incumbent of the see, the />ufee of Richmond (d. 1819), Governor-General of Ca- nada (buried below the altar), and others. Adjacent are the Rectory and the Chapel of All Saints. To the S. of the Cathedral, at the cor- ner of St. Louis St., is the handsome new Court House (PI. F, 4). Laval University. QUEBEC. 9. Route. 43 The short Du Fort St. leads to the N. from the Place d'Armes to the Post Office (PI. F, 4- p. 38), a substantial stone buililing at the corner of Buade St., erected in 1873. The Post Office (tccupies the site of the old Chien d'Or Building; and a stone from the old building, bearing the carved and gilded ligure of a dog, has been built into the front-wall. Below is the inscription: 'Je suis un chien qui ron^e I'oa En le rongeant je prenda rmm repos. Un temps viendra qui n'cst pas venu Que Je mordrai qui m'aura mordu." The story izoes that the house belonpiod to a rich merchant named Philibert, who had been wronged by Intendant Bigot (see p. 47) and chose this way of expressing his hatred. Philibert was afterwards killed by an officer quartered on the Chien d"Or by Bi?ot, but was revenged by his son, who slew hi'* father's murderer in Pondicherry many years later. Comp. 'The Golden Dog% a historical novel by W. Kirby. At a later date the house was occupied as an inn by Sergeant Miles prentice., whose pretty niece, Miss Simpson., so captivated Commander Horatio A'^elson of H. M. S. 'Albemarle'' in 1782, that the future hero of Trafalgar had to be spirited away l»y his friends to prevent him marrying her. Following Buade St. towards the left, we pass the Archbishop's Pdlace (Card. Taschereax^) and the Basilica (PL F, 4) or Romrni from the second half of tlie 18th century. It occupies in part the site of the Chapelle de la Recouvrnnce, built by Champlain in 1633. The interior is gay with ^vhite paint and gilding. Among the numerous paintings are a *Crucifixion, by Van Diick (on the first pillar on the N. side of the nave, next tlie choir) ^ a St. Paul, by Carlo Maratti (in the choir); and examples oi Restoul, Blanchurd. Vignon., end Plamondon. The high-altar-piece is apparently a copy of Lebrun. The bishops of (^»uebec, including Laval, and four French governors, including Fronteuac, are com- memorated by tablets. The collection of vestments may be seen on appli- cation to the verger. The large empty space opposite the Basilica, on the other side of the square , was formerly occupied by the huge Jesuits' College., founded in 1635, rebuilt after the fire of 1640, long used as barracks by the British troops, and recently demolished. According to the most recent investigations the Chapelle de Champlain., built in 1636 over the tomb of the hero, lay in the C'metitre de la Mon- tag/ie. to the E. of the Basilica, below the site of the old Prescott (-ate. To the N of the Basilica extend the huge buildings of the *Sem- inary of Quebec and *Laval University (PI. F. 4). The Seminary of Quebec wa^ founded in 1663 by Fra7i<;ois de Mont- morency Laval., first Bishop of Quebec, and the picturesque group of build- ings composing it d.ite from 1666 to 18~-0. It is divided into Le Grand Simifi'iire, for the education of priests, and Le Petit S^minaire., for the general education of boys. In 1852 the Seminary founded the University of Laval, which received a royal charter the same year and one from Pope Pius IX, in 1S76. It possesses Faculties of Arts, Theology, Law, and Medi- cine. The Seminary is attended by 400, the University by '2.50 students. The main entrance to the University is at the Grand Battery (j>. 42), but it is also reached from the Seminary through the Theological Hall and Priests'" Dwellings. The Medical Faculty occupies a separate building (comp, p. 29). The University, which contains many objects of interest, is open to visitors dtiily. Sun. and holidays excepted (fee 25 c. ; Thurs., 1-4, free). The *PiCTCRE Gallert (catalogue provided) is the finest in Canada, contain- ing, inter alia, works ascribed to Van Dyck (>'o. 95), Teniers (72, 98, 99), TitUorelto (123), Salvator Rosa (69), Vernet{?>0), Alhani {Q'^), N. Ponssin (103\ Parrocei (14, 15), Romanelli (36), Simon Youet (47), Boucher (55, 56, 58), 44 Route 9. QUEBEC. Morrin College. L. CarracciOO), LeenuttU! [l^- Portrait of Calvin), Poelemberg (iOl), f^chnlcken (109), Molenaer (84), and ocfc,near the N. end of Levis , is almost 600 ft. long and admits vessels drawing "25-26 ft. of water. Some of the Churches and Colleges are large and conspicuous buildings. — Levis is adjoined on the N. by Bienville and St. Joseph, and on the S. by South Quebec and St.Romuald or New Liverpool (3545 inhab.), all sharing in tlie large lumber-trade of Quebec (direct ferry, see p. 37). The *Church of St. Romuald is adorned with good paintings by Lamprecht of Munich. The Chaudiere Falls (see p. 35) are 4 M. to the S.W. of St. Romuald (cab $172) and are well worth visiting. The sail to St. Romuald atTords line views of the bo id shores of the St. Lawrence. About halfway between St. Romuald and the falls we cross the Chaudiere at a point called the 'Basin\ b. Isle of Orleans. Steamers, starting from the Champlain Wharf, ply hourly to (4 M.) Ste. PHronille., on the Isle of Orleans {^/i hr. : fare 10 c.). About 4 M. below Quebec the St. Lawrence is divided into a N. and a S. channel by the Island of Orleans (Jsle d' Orleans), 20 M. long, 5M. wide, and 70 sq. M. in area. The short steamboat voyage to it affords, perhaps, the best *View of the city of Quebec, while to the N. are seen Beauport (p. 49) and the Montmorency Falls (p. 50), backed by the Laurentide Mts. The Indian name of the island was Minego. and it was called Isle de Bacchus by Jacques Cartier (1535) on account of the numerous grape-vines he found on from Quebec. BEAUFORT. 10. Route. 49 it. General Wolfe established his camp liere before his siege of Quebec (p. 39). The island is occupied by about 4400 'habitants', who raise large crops of potatoes, make cheese, and possess fine or- chards of apples and plums. [The plum-crop has, however, suffered greatly in recent y»:ar.s from the "black knot'.] The steamer calls at Ste. Petroniile de Beaulieu. a village of 285 inhab., with a pleasant little hotel (Chateau Bel-Airl, a park, and other attractions, which draw many summer- visitors. On the N. shore of the island lie the hamlets of 5(, Pierre and St. Famille. on the S. shore those of St, Frani^ois. St.Jenn, and St. Laurent. The churches date mainly from the middle of last century; the Sunnery of St. Famille dates from 1691). Fine views are obtained of the Laurentide Mts. from the N. shore. c. Falls of Montmorency and Ste. Anne de Beanpr6. 21 M. QuEBKC, MoNTMOKEseY, &. Charlevoix Eailwat in i hr. (fare to Montmorency 20c., to Ste. Anne 30c.). Thi< railway claims to run •especially for the accommodation of pilyirims and pilgrimasies', anuebec to Ste. Anne two or three times weekly in summer from Champlain Market Wbarf (PI. F, 4). The tourist, howe/er, is advised to make this excursion, a-< far as the Montmorency Falls, by road; and the description below adopts this arrange- ment. The carriage-fare to and from Montmorency should not exceed $ 1 for each person. The pedestrian who understands French will find much to interest him throughout the Cute de Beaupr4. The inns are primitive but clean. — Comp. 'A Chance Acquaintance', by W. D. Hotcellfy and 'The Tourist's Note-book', by J. M. Le Maine. We cross the St. Charles by the Dorchester Bridge (PI. E, 1, 2), erected in 1789 and named after the then Governor-General of Canada. To the left is seen the Marine Hospital fp. 47). The road then turns to the right and runs parallel to the St. Lawrence. It is lined nearly all the way with the cottages of the 'habitants', generally standing askew to the road so as to present their gable-end to the E. wind. The visitor will notice the open-air ovens for baking bread, such as are common throughout French Canada. Behin(' the houses are the long narrow strips of their farm -lands (cod p. p. 33), stretching on the right down to the river. Good views are enjoyed of Quebec, Levis, and the Isle of Orleans. To the right lies Mai- zerets^ a farmhouse belonging to Quebec Seminary and forming the regular holiday resort of the pupils. To the left, farther on, about 2 M . from Dorchester Bridge , is the large Provincial Lunatic Asy- lum, On the same side, V2 M. farther on, is the Temperance Mon- ument^ erected by Abbe Chiniquy, cure of Beauport in 1841, .ind afterwards an energetic Protestant preacher. — 1 M. (r.) Church and Presbytery of Beauport. The church is a large edifice, the handsome towers of which were burned down about 1888. Montcalm had his headquarters in 1759 at the manor-house of Beauport, one of the ruinous buildings seen to the left, and at the De Salaberry Manor, Baedekeb's Canada. 4t 50 Roule 10. FAIJ.S OF MONTMORENCY. Excunions since destroyed. Beauport is a long straggling village with about 1500 inhabit mts. About 31/2 M. beyond Beaiiport Church we cross thf Montmo- rency River and reach Bureau's Inn where ti'kets of admission to the grounds round the falls are obtained ('2oc. eai'h pers. ; entr. op- posite the inn). Thr roail crosses above the falls; the railway crosses below them, affording an excellent view of them to the left. The *Fall8 of Montmorency, known to old French peasants as La Vfuhe^ are f'>rmed by the Montmorency River just before its confluence wiih the St. Lawrence and are 205 ft. high and 150 It. wide. In spring or after heavy rain they are very imposing. The path in the inn-;jcrounds leads to a steep flig'.it of 370 steps, which atTords a good view of the falls from below, but hardly repays the fatit;ue of descent and ascent. A summer- houie on the opposit'.' aide of the river commands a nearer view of the falls from ab(jve; hut this is in the private ^'rounds of Ilaldimnnd Uoutt, now owned by Mr. lArbtrt A. M. Prict (no adm,). Haldimaml House was built by (Governor Haldimaid in 1780 and was cupied by tho Duke of Kent in 17*J1-1. The summer -hoase wa,'^ also built originally by Gen. Haldimand, at the suggestion of the Baroness Riedesel, wife of the com- maider of the Hessian troops in the Revolutionary War (see her 'Letters'). Above the falls are the remains of a suspension bridge, which fell in 1854, carrying with it a peasant and his family who were driving a<'ross it at the time. Two tine ice-cone3 u,sed to be formed at the foot of the falls in winter, affoiding royal sport to Quebec tttboggimers , but there is now so little spray , owing to the fact that great part of the water is withdrawn to generate the electric light with which Quebec is illuminated, that the cones are insignificant. At the mouth of the Montmorency are a large Cotton Mill the Electric Plnnt for li:4hting Quebec, and the remains of the H'dl-Piice Saw-Mills. No visitor to the Falls should omit seeing the *Natural Steps. I1/4 M. farther up the river. These are a series of curious ledges of limestone rock, of sini^ularly regular formation, hemming in the Montmorency, which flows boiling through its narrow channel and over miniature waterfalls. The scene recalls the Strid at Bolton Abbey or the Linn of Dee near Braomur (see Baedeker^s Great BriVtin). To reach the Natural Steps we re-cross the bridge and follow a cart-track ascending along the right bank of the stream. This dwindles 1 1 a path leading along the edge of the trees on the river- bank, and after 15-1^ min. walk from the high-road a well-defined path to the right descends to the Steps. On our way back we should follow janother descending path, about 200 yds. from that just mentioned and not so distinct, which leads to a sombre black pool below the Natural Steps. It was at 31ontmorjncy that Wolfe delivered his unsucces.sful attempt on Montcalm in 1759, the centre of the attack being the end of the road known then and now as the C6te de C&urville (see p. 39). Beyond Montmoreney the Railway affords good views, to the light, of the St, Lawrence and the Isle of Orleans (p. 48). — 91/2 M. (from Quebec) UAnge Gardien, with its old church, prettily situated in a small valley and frequented by sportsmen in search of snipe and partridge. The hills approach more closely. — Near (15^2 M.) Chateau Richer, with its fine apple and plum orchards and good shooting, are the romantic falls of the Sault b la Puce, about 110 ft. high. — 18 V2 ^1. Riviere des Chiens; 201/2 M. Eglise Ste. Anne. 21 M. Ste. Anne de Beaapr^, or La Bonne Ste. Anne (Regina Hotel; also several small inns), a village with about lOOOinhab., is the most famous pla''e of pilgrimage in America to the N. of Mexico and is visited annually by many thousands of pilgrims (124,000 in from Queher. FALLS OF STE. ANNE. 10. Route. 51 1892). The present Church of Ste. Anne, openeil for public, worship in 1876 and created a Basilica by the Pope in 1887, is a large and handsome building, with towers 168 ft. high. It contains some relics of Ste. Anne , numerous ex vote offeringsi and crutches left by those who have undergone miraculous cures, and a good altarpiece by Le Brun. The enthusiasm is at its greatest height on Ste. Anne's Day (.July 26th). The original church of 1658 (the eleventh church built in Canada), threatening to fall into ruin, was taken down in 1878 and re-erected with the same materials on its former site, near the new church. Opposite the Presbytery^ at the E. end of the main church, is the brilliantly decorated Scata Santa Chapel (llnisbed in 1893), the platform in front of which commands a superb *View. The *Fall8 of Ste. Anne, formed by the river of that name, 3-4 M. above the town, consist of a series of picturesque plunges, one of which is 130 ft. high. The path to the falls is not easily found without a guide. The Falls of St. Fired., 4 M. farther on. are also fine. The Ste. Anne Mts.^ a part of the Laurentide range, culminating in a summit 2685 ft. high, rise about 5 M. from the village. Beyond Ste. Anne the railway goes on to (5 M.) St. Joachim; (2 M.) Chateau Bellevue, occupied in summt-r by prie-^ts and students from the Seminary of Quebec (p. 43); and (3 M.) Cape Tourmerite (p. 57; *View). d. Lorette. Charlesbourg. Ch&teau Bigot. Lake Beauport. Lake Charles. Lorette is most quickly reached by railway (see p. 59), but the vi- sitor of leisure is advised to drive, at least one way. Charleshourg and Chateau Bigot may easily be combined in the same drive. The distance to Lorette, via either the Little liiver or tiie Charleshourg road, is about 8 31. The fare to Lorette and back direct should not exceed 75c. to $ 1.50 per head (with a minimum of $ 1.50); and the detour to Chateau Bigot may cost about 50 c. extra. The bridge-toll may be saved liy hiring the carriage on the far side of the St. Charles. The so-called ^Little River Road^ to Lorette begins at the end of the tramway-liae in St. Sauveur, crosses ScotVs Bridge (beyond Pi. A, 1), ai:d follows the E. (N.^ bank of tlie St. Charles. Or we may follow the W. (S.) bank for 2 M. more and then cross the river. The, Charleshourg RoiidnQ&ies,i\\Q Dorchester Bridge (V\. E, 1,2; p. 49) and runs towards the N. W. (the Montmorency road diverging to the right ; see p. 49). To the left, near the confluence of the Lairet with the St. Charles, is the small Jacques Cartier Monument., marking the supposed spot of Cartier s settlement in the winter of 1535-36 (p. 39). 4 M. Charleshourg , see p. 52. Chateau Bigot (p. 52) lies about 2 M. to the E. — Opposite the church the Lorette road turns to the left. 8 M. Lorette, see p. 52. The road running on from Charlesbonrg in the direction hitherto followed leads to (831.) Lake Beauport (Hotel ; 12 31. from Quebec), a sheet of water 1 31. long and Vt'Vz ^^- wide, frequented by fishing and pleasure parties from Quebec. The road to it passes the village of St. Pierre and crosses the 'Brul6% a district devastated by a forest fire. About 4 31. to the N. of Lorette, and 12 M. from Quebec, lies Lake St. Charles, another popular angling-resort, 4 31. long and V» ^f- wide. Beyond Lorette the road to it crosses the Bellevue Mt. (view). Lake St. Charles is the source of Quebec's water-supply. 4* 52 11. From Quebec to Lake St. John and Chicontimi. Quebec & Lake St. John Railway to (190 31.) Roberval in 8Vi hrs. (fare $5.70, parlour-car 75 c., sleeper $1.50)', thence to (6iM.) Chicoutimi in 372 hrs. (through-fare $6). Luncheon is served at Lake Edward (p. 53), reached at 1.30 p.m. This route, crossing the Laurcntian Mts. (p. xxxv) and traversing one of the wildest and least-trodden districts yet reached hy railway, can be con- veniently combined with the Saguenay trip (R. 12), and the traveller is recommended to proceed to Roberval, pass one or more nights there, and then go on to Chicoutimi, where he joins the Saguenay steamer (p. 62). As the through-train to Roberval starts in the morning, while the steamer ascends the Saguenay by night and descends by day, he will thus see all the scenery by daylight. As at present arranged , he leaves Quebec by train at 8.30 a.m., reaching Roberval at 4.45 p.m.; leaves Roberval at8.3Up.m.. reaching Chicoutimi at 12.10 a.m. •, and leaves Chicoutimi early the next morning (comp. p. 62). — For the fishing at Roberval (the famous 'onana- niche'') and other points on the Quebec & Lake St. John Railway, see p. 55. Comp. the well-written pamphlet (by E. T. D. Chambers) published by the Quebec & Lake St. John Railway, Quebec^ see p. 37. The train leaves the station in St. Andrew St. (PI, F, 3) and crosses the St. Charles by an iron bridge 1200 ft. long (retrospect of the city), — From (^ 2 ^^'^ Hedleyville Junction, at the other end of the bridge, the line to Montmorency and Ste. Anne diverges to the right (see p. 49). Our line begins almost at once to mount the slopes of the Lau- rentian or Laurentide Mts. (pp. xxxv, 33). The hills at first are seen mainly to the right. — 3M. Churksbnurg^ a prosperous village with 700 inhab., surrounded by orchards, contains the summer- homes of many Quebeckers. It lies high and commands a fine view. 6 M. Charlesbourg West. About 2 M, to the E. of Charlesbourg are the scanty ruins of Chateau Sigot or the Hermitage, a country-seat of the Intendant Bigot (p. 47). 'The ruin itself is not of impressive size, and it is a chateau through grace of the popular fancy rather than through any right of its own' {Howells). The romantic and probably baseless legend of the Indian maiden Caroline, who is said to have -een murdered here, Rosamond-like, by the jealous Mme. de Pean, auother favourite of Bigot, is given at length in 'The Golden Dog', by W. Kirby. See also 'L'Intendant Bigot', a French romance by J. E. E. Marmette, Assistant Archivist, Ottawa (p. 146). 8 M. Indian or Jeune Lorette (450 ft.), a pretty little village, occupied by about 300 Christianised survivors of the ancient Hurons, so crossed, however, by intermarriage with the French Canadians that there is probably not a single full-blooded Indian in the vil- lage. Comp. Howells^s 'A Chance Acquaintance' (chap, xiii), A visit to Indian Lorette, to which the Hurons were removed in 1697, is one of the favourite short excursions from Quebec (comp. p. 51). The Indians make a living by hunting and trapping, by acting as guides for sportsmen, and by the manufacture of bead-work, baskets, snow-shoes, moccasins, and toboggans. Visitors are usually welcome at the houses of the Head Chief and his colleagues, of whom Tsievei ('Seewee') is the only Protestant. French is the language of the village, though a few of the Indians also speak English. The Church, a reproduction of the Santa Casa of Loretto, was erected 150 years ago and contain.'} a copy of the Loretto figure of the Virgin. ST. RAYMOND. IL Route. 53 The St. Charles Rivev flows past the village, forming the romantic "Falls of Lorette (ca. ICK) ft), a good view of which is obtained from ihe road. A steep and rous^h path also descends to the brink of the luwer jiart of the cataract. — The river separates L( rette from the thriving French village of St. Ambroise, with 875 inhab. and a large church. — Both villages art'ord good 'Views of Quebec. 14 M. Valcartier. largely settlfd by English military men, v,ith about a score of Waterloo veterans in its graveyard. About 4 M. farther on we cross ti.u Jacques Cartier River [i^. 34; *Yiew, best to the right) and reach (18 M. ) St. Gabriel. Snow-breaks are seen here and at intervals farther on. Beyond St. Gabriel we traverse a district overgrown by scrubby forest. 11 M. St Catharine's. — 24 M Lake St. Joseph [Lake View House, 2 M. from the station). The lake, of Tvhi(;h v.e cross the outlet, is S M. lonir and lies to the right. It is navigated by a small steamer and affords good boating, bath- ing, and fishing for black bass, trout, and lake-trout (touladi). — Farther on we skirt the pretty ^Lalct Strqent^x.'). "I M. Bourg Louis. 36 M. St.Eaymond (460ft.; HAelsX a village with 3000 inhab., prettily situated on the Ste. Anne River and surrounded by mountains, is another good angling-centre. The scenery of the N. branch of the Ste. Anne, known as the Little Sayuenay. is wild and picturesque. The district now traversed contains few settlements except the modest little houses of the varioiis Ushing-dubs, which liave ac- quired the fishing-rights of the innumerable lakes and streams with which the country abounds. Caribou and other shooting is also en- joyed here. — 58 M. Riviere a Pierre (710 ft), a lumberinjr settle- ment, is the junction of the Lower Laurentian Railway to St. Tile, Grandes Piles, and Three Rivers, which is intended to form part of a line connecting Quebec with Ottawa and Parry Sound (comp. pp. 34, 1431. We cross the Riviere k Pierre on leaving the station of that name, and about 10 M. farther on we reach the beautiful brown *Bati8can, the left bank of which we now follow for about 30 M. The scetiery is best viewed from the rear-platform of the parlour-oar. The opposite bank of the river is beautifully wooded and often rises in vertical rocky cliffs, hundreds of feet high, while the water flows past in alternate stretches of turmoil and placidity. The railway follows its windings, often rounding abrupt curves. 70 M. Lauren- tides, with an angling-club. Just beyond (76 M.) Miguick, at the mouth of the stream of that name, is a district recently swept over by an extensive forest-fire. Beyond (86 M.) Beaudet we cross and leave the Batiscan. 94 M. Stadacona , with a lake and club-house (left). 102 M. Skroder's Mill is another good angling-station. 113 M. Lake Edward (121 Oft.; Laurentides House, meals 50 c.), or Lac des Grandes Islea, where the train halts for luncheon, is a large and fine body of water, 20 M. long ai\d studded with count- less islands. It is well stocked with fine trout, often 5 lbs. in weight, the fishing for which is free to all patrons of the railway. Excellent fishing is also obtained in the Riviere aux Rats , the Jtanotte (the 54 Route 11. . ROBERVAL. From Qiiehec lakes outlet), etf. Guides and camping-outfits may be obtained at thf" hotel. Small steamers ply on Lake Edward. About 13 m. beyond Lake Edward the railway reaches its higlic t point (loOO ft. above the St. Lawrence) and begins to descend to- wards Lake St. .John. — At (135 M.) Kiskisink (1820 ft,), a fi.ae lake, 9 M. long, lies to the right. Close to the line is the club-house of the Metahetchouan Cluh. 151 M. Lac Gros Visons is a small but picturesque lake to the left. 160 M. *Lake Bouchette (1075 ft."), also to the left, is perhaps the most beautiful sheet of water passed by the railway. It is conuci'ted, on the W,, with the Lac des Com- missaires. and both waters are leased by a club of Connecticut anglers. — 164 M- Dahlon; 170 M. I)e Quen, named after the Jesuit father who discovered Lake St. John In 1647. Lake St. John (see below) now comes in sight on the left front. At (177 M.) Chambord Junction, near the S. bank of Lake St. John, the railway divides into two branches, the one running to the left to (13 M.) Roherral. the other to the right to (ol M. ) Chicou- timi. In the meantime, we follow the former branch, leaving the other to be described at p. 56. Tlie Roberval lino skirts the S.W. shore of Lake St. John, of which it affords fine views to the right. At (184 M.) Ouidtchouan Falls we cross the Ouiatchouan and obtain a good view of its falls, about 1 M. to the left (see p. 55"). — About 6 M. farther on we cross the rapid Ouiatchouaniohe^ or Little Ouiatchouan, and reach — 190 M. Roberval (350 ft. ), a prosperous lumbering settlement, with 2400 inhab. and two or three saw-mills. The most conspicuous building is the rey stone Nunnery. Beyond the ^ illage the train runs on for about 1 M. more to the platform in front of the *Hotel Roberval ($21/2-0; 300 guests), a large and well - equipped summer-resort , with electric lights, billiard-room, bowling-alley, and other conveniences. It commands a fine view of Lake St. John, the opposite end of which, 25 M. distant, can be descried in clear weather only. The steamboat -wharf is about 1 3 M rom the hotel, adjoining the tine steam saw-mill of Mr. JI. J. Beeme {Mr. B. A. Scott, manager), wlufh has an annual capacity of 15.000,0,^0 ft. of lumber. Lake St. John, the Pikouagami or ^Flat Lake' of the Indians, is an almost circular sheet of water, with a diameter of about 25 M., surrounded by low wooded hills. It if. well stocked with fish, in- cluding the ouananiche (seep. 55), pike, dore, and trout. Anumber of rivers flow into the lake, the largest of which are the Peribo;l2, the Mistassini. and the Aahuapmouchouan. It empties at its E. end by the Grand Discharye or Decharge du Lac St. Jean (see p. 55), forming the upper waters of the Saguenay. The Lake St. John Valley, now containing about 40.000 inhab., possesses a fertile clay soil, which of late years has been producing good crops of wheat, oats, and potatoes, and raising considerable quantities of live-stock. The to Lake St. John. LAKP] ST. JOIJN. LI. Route. 55 valley is one of the leading districts In Quebec for cheese anil butter, exporting $ 150,000 worth of these commodities in 1893. The climate is said to be not more severe than that of Montreal, and the snow- fall is rather less. The settlers are almost wholly French Canadians, The Fishing in Lake St. John and its tributary rivors has been leased to the Management of the Hotel Roljerval, and is free to all its jiatrons. The chief sport ' afforded by the Ouar)ani< he (•wahnanecsh'), a kind of fresh-water salr u»n peculiar to this district, wbicli ranks with tront and siilmon in its gamy qualities. The usual weight is 2-4lbs.. and fish above 5-6 lbs. are rare, though they are somt times caupLt wei{ihing !\s much as 81bs. In May and Jmip the nuananiche may be caught in the lake, espe- cially near the Hotel Ku.i rval and at the mouth of the Metabetchouan (p. .%); later the scene of the sport is at the (Jrand Discharge (see below) and v.p the rivers Ashuapmouchouan , Mistassini, and Perilonka. Fishing and camjdng outfits, includin«ini, etc., are often made in this way. The favourite trip from tlie Hotel Itoberval is that by steamer across Lake St. John to the Grand discharge (25 M.. in 2 hrs. ; fare 70 c. re- turn-fare $1). — The general course of the steamer is a little to the N. of E. As we leave we enjoy a good retrospect of Iit>berval and a distant view (r.) of the Ouiatrhouan Falls (see below). The E. end of the lake, at the entrance of the land, whiih is 9 M. long. An excursion by railway or by road (carr. $2-4) should also be made to the "Ouiatchouan Falls (comp. p. 54), which are about 280 ft. liigh and exceedingly pictviresqne. Walkers may follow the railwav, which is well ballasted, to (7 M.) Oniatchouan Falls Station (p. 51) .-ind there tnke to the road. A footpath, leaving the road to the right, just beyond the bridge over the Ouiatchonan ('Weeatchouan'), leads through wood to (1 M.) the foot of the falls. About 31/2 M. to theN. of the Hotel Roberval is the interesting Indian reservation of Pointe Bleue, inhabited by about 500 Montagnais (p. xlvi), who make their living mainly as guides, trappi rs. and canoe-men. They are very dark in c Zrot/^ 5rooi-, but better sport is afforded by the lakes, 12-15 M. distant. 31any Canadian families have pleasant summer-cottages here, and the gaiety of the place centres, perhaps, round these rather than round thf^ hotels. In every way, however, Cacouna i.s much quieter and simpbr than the fashionable resorts of the United States, and the name of the 'Saratoga of Canada', sometimes given to it, is very misleading. — The village contains 6'iO inhab., nearly ail French ; and near it, on the beach, is a small settlement of Indians, of whom sonvenirs of various kinds may be purchased. Tlie steamer now heads across stream (N.W.) for the mouth of tlie Saguenay. A jrood view of Ca'^oiina (see above), 3-4 M. distant, is obtained to the nght. Away to the left are Hare Island (p. 58), the Brandy Pots, and White Island. About halfway across we pass near Red Island (r. ). with its lighthouse and light-ship. 132m. (1.) Tsi6.ovLSB.c{ Tadousac Hotel, $2' 2; boarding-houses), a village of about GOO inhab., picturesquely situated just above the confluence of the St. Lawrence and the Saguenay (see p. 60), and now frequented as a summer-resort, is of special interest as the oldest continuously occupied European settlement in Canada. The Bay of Tadousac, opening towards the St. Lawrence, atfords a safe and commodious little harbour, but the steamboat-wharf is in the Anse <) VEau, a small creek in the Saguenay. opening to the S.W, and separated from the bay by a small and rocky peninsula. On the opposite (S.l side of the Saguenay rises Pointe Noire (400 ft.). Tadousac (accent on the last syllable) derives its name ('nipple') from the 'mamelons' or rounded hills by which it is enclosed. The bathing here is good, though cold, and boating is much in vogue in the sheltered bay on the St. Lawrence. Good fishing is to be had in numerous small lakes. 3-4 M. inland, and sea-trout are caught in the Saguenay. Tadousac was visited in 1535 by .Jacques Cartier, who heard strange stories of the Sa^iuenay from the Indians he found fishing here. A trading- post was established here in 1599 by Pcmtgrave and Chauvin, and < laitnplain visited it in their company in 1602. For scores of years to come this was the chief meeting-place and market of the French fur-traders and the In- dians. The Basque. Norman, and Breton mariners, who bad long frequented the Banks of Newfoundland (p. 101), also found their way to Tadousac in pursuit of whales. In 1628 the little settlement was occupied by Sir David Kirke. and it was thence he sent his brothers to capture Quebec (p. 39). In 1661 the garrison was massacred by the Iroquois, and in 1690 three French frigates found refuge here from Sir William Phipps (p. 39). Later it became a post of the Hudson Bay Co. Tadousac also plays a prominent part in the story of the early efforts of the French missionaries, the first mission being established here in 1615 bv the R^collet Father Dolbeau. The Jesuits had charge of it from 1641 to 1782. Comp. 'In and Aro\ind Tadousac", by J. Edmund Boy (to be had in the chapel-, 50c.). 60 Route 12. THE SAGUENAY. From Quehec The most interesting spot in Tadnusac is, for most visitors, the quaint little "Chnpel of the Jesuit Mittion^ which was built in 1747-50 on the site of a more ancient church and still ]>reserve3 the priinitiveness of its orisiinal aspect. It contains some interestiny; relics anJ also the tomb of Father de la Brosie, the last Jesuit missionary, of whose death a picturesque legend is current. The bell is that of the original chapel and has seen nearly three centuries of service. Close t(» the chapel, which overlooks the Bay of Tadousac, is the large Tadoutac Hotel fp. 59) ; and not far off are the plain hut substantial old buildings of the Hudson Bay Co, The villa which Lord Dufferin built for himself in 1873 also faces the bay. Adjoining the Anse a TEau is a Government Piscirultural Stadon,, with a pool in which numbers of large salmon, kept here for breeding purposes, may be seen. — Oppo- site Tadousac is the small settlement of St. Catharine's Bay (200 inhab.). The ""Saguenay, wliich the steamer now ascends, is one of the (^hief tributaries of the St. Lawrence and unquestionably one of the most remarkable rivers on the American continent. From the point where it takes the name Saguenay, as it issues from Lake St. John, it is about 110 M. long; but its real source is to be found at least 200 M. farther up , in the headwaters of the large rivers flowing into that lake (p. 54). The lower part of the river, a deep and gloomy fjord, bordered by hills and precipices of sombre and im- pressive grandeur, has been aptly described as 'a tremendous chasm cleft in a nearly straight line for some sixty miles', and is doubtless due to seismic action. Its breadth varies from V'2 M. to 21/2 M.; its depth is immense, its bottom being at least 600 ft. below that of the St. Lawrence at their confluence. The striated cliffs of gneiss and syenite are but scantily relieved by vegetation, and, save for an occasional white whale (p. 58), no animal life is visible. The scenery is grand but sombre, and by some travellers it is even found, with the exception of a few points, dull and monotonous. For the first few miles after we leave Tadousac the cliffs on either side are 600-1100 ft. high. 136 M. (r. ; 4 M. from Tadousac) Pointe La Boule (600 ft.). — 139 M. (1.) Passe Pierre Isles. 142 M. (1.) St. Etienne Bay., with Pointe Brise- Culottes as its N. arm, beyond which the river bends to the left (W.). 147 M. (r.) Mouth of the Ste. Marguerite., the chief tributary of the Saguenay and famous for its salmon-fishing. 149 M. (1.) St. Louis Isle., a tree-covered mass of granite. The river is here 1200 ft. deep. To the right, just above, is a group of islets at the mouth of the Riviere a Rouge or Atocas. 153 M. (1.) Mouth of the Little Saguenay River. 167 M. (1.) St. John's Bay (Anse St. Jean), with the mouth of the St. John River, a hamlet, and a small waterfall. 164 M. (1.) **Cape Eternity (1700 ft.) and (165 M.; I.) **Cope Trinity (1500 ft.), with the deep and narrow Eternity Bay between them, form the culmination of the sublime scenery of the Saguenay. The former of the two huge masses of rock slopes gently backward from the stream and is densely clothed with pines, but Cape Trinity rises perfectly sheer from the black water, a naked wall of granite. n , 5 -v^<«* t O- y ; V. h- .-'- > V -^■a"-.. to Chiroutiml. CHICOUTIMI. 12. Route. 61 Its name is derived from the three steps in which it climbs from the river. Near the top are a cross and a gilded statue of the Virgin. The steamer approaches very close to the precipice, the steam-whistle is blown to show the marvellous echo, and passengers try their strength in throwing stones at the apparently easily-reacheri wall. — The front of the cliffs is defaced with the staring advertisement of a Quebec tradesman, whom, it is hoped, all riglit-minded tourists will on this account relig- iously boycott. 1661 2 M. (1.) La Niche, or Statue Point, 'where at about 1000 feet above the water, a huge, rough Gothic arrh gives entrance to a cave, in which, as yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before the entran(;e to this black aperture, a gigantic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and the monstrous statue came crashing down through the ice of the Sagutnay, and left bare to view the entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages' (from the Times). 172 M. (r.l Trinity Bay. 175 M. (1.) Le Tableau, a clifl' 900 ft. high, presenting to the river an immense smooth front like a canvas prepared for painting. 181 M. ( r. I Descente des Femmes, a cove said to owe its name to the story that a party of Indian squaws managed to reach the river through this ravine and so proimred help for their husbands, who were starving in the back-country, 187 M. (r. ) Cape East. The river here is about 2 M. wide, and at ordinary spring-tides the water rises 18 ft. Opposite Cape East opens Ha Ha Bay. 7 M. long and 1-21/2 M. wide. The steamer usually ascends this bay, either in going or com- ing, to ( 195 M.) St. Alphonse ( McLean's Hotel), in the N.W. angle of the bay , near the mouth of the Wabouchba Canadiens'. — 74 M. St. Anne de la Pocatiere [Ouellet Ho., $2) is a flourishing little town on the St. Lawrence, with a college (260-300 students ; mu- seum ; agricultural school and model farm) and a large Convent of the Grey Nuns. — 80 M. Riviere Quelle is the home of the Abbe Casgrain, the historian and antiquarian, and the scene of his romance 'La Jongleuse' , based on the history of Mme. Houel , who was captured here by the Iroquois in the T7th century. — 89 M. St. Paschal is the station for the quiet watering-place of Kamouraska (St. Louis; Le BeVs), whi(;h lies 5 M. to the N.W., on the St. Lawrence, and affords good salt-water bathing. It possesses a large church and convent. Off-shore lie the Kamouraska Islands (p. 58). — 109 M. Old Lake Road is the station for Notre Dame du Portage, so called from the short 'portage' here (ca. 25 M.) between the St. Lawrence and the headwaters of the St. John (p. 130). 115 M. Eiviere dn Loup or Fraserville (320 ft. ; Talbot House, $2; Fraserville, $2; Bellevue, Venise, near the pier, $2) is a town of (1891) 4500 inhab. J picturesquely situated on high ground on the 64 Route 13. . TROIS PISTOLES. From Quebec Riviere du Loup, a little above its confluence with the St. Lawrence (steamboat-wharf, see p. 58). It is a railway-centre of some im- portance (see below) and is also frequented as a summer-resort on account of its facilities for bathing, boating, shooting, and fishing. The name of Riviere du Loup is said to be derived from the seals (loups- 7narins) that used to frequent its shoals, while Fraserville is in honour of the family of Fraser Gong since Gallitised; comp. p. 5S), in wiiom the seigneurial rights have for many years been vested. — The most conspicu- ous building in the town is the Parish Church, a large edifice with a lofty spirt. — A short way above the railway-bridge the Riviere du Loup de- scends about 200 ft. in a series of picturesque *Falls. — Good trout-fishing may be had in many lakes and streams within easy reach of Riviere du Loup. The salmon-fisheries are generally leased to private individuals, but a stranger can often obtain permission to try his hand. The adjacent woods abound in partridges, and water-fowl frequent the St. Lawrence and other rivers in great number. Caribou may be shot at no great distance. In- formation and guides may be obtained at the hotels. From KivifiiRE du Loup to Connors, 113 M. , Temiscouata Railway in 71/2 hrs. (fare $3.80). — This line runs to the S.E., through a district rich in interest for the angler and sportsman. Beyond (43 M.) Fort Ingalls we reach the W. bank of Lake Temiscouata, a narrow sheet of water, about 22 M. long, abounding in large-sized trout and 'tuladi', a heavy fish of the salmon family. Good shooting is obtained m its banks. The Tuladi River, entering the lake from the N.E. , is famed for its trout. - 51 M. Clou- tiers Platform (Cloutiers Hotel) and (52 M.) Notre Dame du Lac (Stone llo.) are favourite sporting-quarters. — Beyond the lake we follow the Alada- waska River (left) and soon enter New Brunswick (p. 1.33). The Madawaska Valley is mainly peopled by descendants of the Acadians, who settled here after their expulsion from Nova Scotia (p. 119). — At (81 M.) EJ- mundston, situated at the confluence of the Madawaska and the St. John, we connect with the C.P.R. foi* Woodstock, Fredericton , and St. John (see p. 138). — Our line now turns to the right (W.) and skirts the N. bank of the St. John, here forming the boundary between New Branswick and Maine. 89 M. St. Hilaire, opposite Frtnchville TMe.); 101 M. Clairs, opposite Fort Kent (Me.). — 113 M. Connors (Hotel Connors) aiTords good headquartei'S for sport in the uiU a fire in the mouth of the cave in which their victims liad taken refuge. In leaving Bic we cross the deep and narrow gorge of a small stream flowing into Bic Harbour. 180 M. Eimouski or St. Germain de Rimouski (80 ft. ; St. Law- rence Hall, Rimouski, $ lV2)i ^ small to\ i with 14'29 inhab. and a trade in Inmber, is best known as the port of call of the ocean steam- ers, where passengers and mails from ( or for) the Maritime Provinces embark or disembark (comp. p. 3). It is the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop and possesses a substantial stone catiiedral , con- vents, a seminary, etc. The long Pier juts out into the water for nearly a mile and is a favourite promenade of the summer-visitors, most of whom are French. The Rimouski River is an important sal- mon-stream, but is under lease. Good trout-fishing and shootin;: are, however, easily obtained. The harbour is protected by St. Barnahe Island, to which attaches a romantic legend. — 185 M. St. Ana- clet is the station for Father Point (p. 3), where outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. — 198 M. Ste. Flavie (^250 ft.). . The line now bends to the right (8. ), crosses the Metis River, and leaves the St. Lawrence, 203 M. St. Octave is the station for Grand Metis, with its mixture of Scottish Presbyterians and French Catholics. — 207 M. Little Metis Station (560 ft.). Little Metis (Seaside, Turriff Hall^ Cascade, Ocean, Ho., $1-2) lies on the St. Lawrence, 6 M. to the N. of the station, and has become a fav- ourite summer-resort, affected, according to 'Picturesque Canada', by 'the scientist, the blue-stocking, and the newly-married'. It has a good sandy beach, on which the salt waves of the St. Lawrence, here nearly 40 M. wide, roll in with something of an oceanic effect. Among the cot- tages is the tasteful lishing-lodge of Lord Mount Stephen (p. 28). The Grand and Little Mitis Rivers contain salmon and trout (the latter free to all- comers), and good trout-fishing is to be had in the ANtis Lakes. Partridge, wild-fowl, and caribou are found in the woods and on the shore. Pleasant drives may be taken to (7 M) the falls of the two rivers above named and to other points. The train now ascends rapidly to the highest point of tlie line, near Lake Malfait (750 ft. ), and then descends to (227 M.) Saya- bec, situated near the N. end of Lake Metapedia (i2 M. long), which we see to the left. 234 M. Cedar HalL at the mouth of the Matane River. • Beyond the lake we follow the beautiful * Valley of the Meta- pedin or Metapediac, hugging the river closely for about 60 M. and crossing it 3 or 4 times. The valley is enclosed by wood-elad hills 500-1000 ft. high, which approach each other so closely at places as barely to leave room for the river, the railway, and the well-built high-road. The river forms innumerable rapids and is one of the most famous salmon-streams in Canada. As usual, the salmon- Baedeker's Canada. 5 66 Route 13. DALHOUSIE. From Quebec fishing is all in private hands and strictly preserved; but good trout- fishing and fair though simple accommodation may be obtained at almost any of the stations along the line. 242 M. Amqui, at the junction of the river of that name with tlie Metapedia: 250 M, Sal.non Ldke. — 2')6 M. Causapscal^ at the mouth of that river , is the chief angling-resort in the valley. Good trout-fishing is ob- tained in various small lakes. The shooting-lodge in whi(;h Lord Mount Stephea used to entertain the Princess Louise has been sold to the Restigout-he Salmon Club. — 262 M. Pleasant Beach; 269 M. Asmmetquaghan ; 281 M. Mill Stream. We now leave the French- Canadian district anil enter an English-s^ >»king country, 290 M. Metapedia (35 ft.), beautifully situated at the confluence of the Metapedia and the Restigouche (see below), with the head- quarters of the Restigouche Salmon Club, is the junction of a railway running along the N. shore of the Baie des Chaleurs (p. 67) to (44 M.) Carleton, (68 M.) New Richmond^ and (79 M. ) Captin. The train now crosses the Restigouche by a bridge 300 yds. long, enters New Brunswick (p. 133), turns to the left, and runs along the widening estuary (*Views to the left). A little farther on we thread the only tunnel on the line (though there are a great many snow-sheds) and reach (303 M.) Campbellton (Royal, Waverley, Queen, and other small hotels, $1-2; U.S. Con. Agent), a town at the head of deep-water navigation , with 2000 inhab., carrying on a trade in fish and lumber. It is visited to some extent as a summer-resort, for which its beautiful situation admiraoly tits it, but still lacks a first-class hotel. The Sugar Loaf (950 ft.), rising behind the town, commands a charming view. At Cross Point or Mission Point, (tpposite Campbellton. on the N. bank of the Restijiouche, is one of the chief villages of the Micmac or Souriqtiois Jndianty with about 500 inhab., few of whom are of pure blood. The Mic- raacs, a nomad tribe of Algonciuin stDck, are scattered throughout the Maritime Provinces, and in the peninsula of Gaspe, to the number of about 7000. They are excellent sportsmen and lishei-men and alibrd ad- mirable service as guides and canoe-men. See 'Lefjends of the Micmacs', by the Rev. Silas T. Rand (Longmans; 1804). 812 M. Dalhousie Junction is the diverging point of a short line to (7 M.) Dalhousie i^Inch Arran^ a large and pleasant house 1 M. from the town, $3-5 ; Murphy Ho., $ 1V2)? ^ V^^^ of entry situated at the point where the estuary of the Restigouche merges in the Baie des Chaleurs, and one of the most popular and attractive marine resorts in the Maritime Provinces. It also carries on a considerable trade in lumber, preserved salmon, and lobsters. Pop. 800. The large and sheltered harbour offers safe facilities for boating, while smooth beaches and water of mild temperature invite the bather. Pleasant walks and drives may be taken amid the adjacent hills, and the fisherman will find no lack of opportunity to test his skill. Aft. Dalhousie (715 ft.), 2 M. from the town, is a good point of view. The Kestigouehe River, at the mouth of which Dalhousie lies, claims to be the best salmon-flshing river in the world, and advances '"'>me to Halifax. BAY CHALEUR. 73. Route. 67 strong evidence in favour of this assertion. The largest salmon known to have been caught in it weighed 54 lbs. , and the average weight is about 22 lbs. All the best reaches of the Restigouche itself and its numer- ous tributaries are leased to individuals and clubs (mostly American), and the ti^tal annual rental for fishing-purposes amounts to about $12,000 (2400/.). When the expenses of living, guides, canoes, keepers, and so on are added to this, it has been estimated that each salmon caught costs $25-35 (5-7/.). Among the chief tributary streams are the Metapedia (see p. Ci6), the Upsalquitch (abounding in trout), the Patapedia, and the Quat- awamkedgeunck (usually known as the 'Tom Kedgewick'). The headwaters of the Restigouche, which is 130 M. in length, are within 15 M. of the St. John River (between Edmundston and Grand Falls), and the latter can, indeed, be reached by canoe with a portage of only 3 M. (comp. p. 137). The estuary of the river, extending from Dalhousie to Metapedia fp. 36), is very picturesque and measures 4 M. aoroj^s its widest part. About 21/2 M. above Campbellton, on the Quebec side of the river, is Point Boiirdo., about 3 M. above which lay the French town of Petit Rocfielk, destroyed by the British fleet under Commodore Byron in 17bO. The Baie des Chaleurs, or Bay Chaleur, was so name(' by Jacques Cartier, who discovered it in the hottest part of the year 1535. Its Indian name is Eketuam Nemaachi ("sea of fish'), a name which it amply justifies by the wealth of its fisheries (cod, herring, mackerel, tunny, etc.). The bay, which is S5 M. long and 15-25 M. wide, is said to be entirely free from shoal or reef dangerous to navigation. The entrance is partly pro- tected by the two large, low, wooded islands of Shippegan and Miscou (see p. 68). The bay was the scene of the crime which forms the subject of Whittier's poem 'Skipper Ireson's Ride'. On the N. the Baie des Chaleurs is bounded by the Peninsula of Gaspe, an elevated plateau (ca. 1500 ft.) forming the N.E. terminus of the Appalachian system of roo-.ntains. Above the general level stand out the Shickshock Mis., running through the centre of the peninsula and attaining a height of 3500-3^00 ft. The peninsula is thinly populated (ca. 35.000), the settlements being confined to the coast. Its industries are lumbering and fishing. Travellers who wish to see something of the peninsula may Eroceed by steamer (Quebec S.8. Co.; see p. 37) from Quebec to Gasp^ (see elow); but those who object to this long voyage can visit the most inter- e::ting points from Dalhousie via the steamer 'Admiral', sailing twice weekly (Wed. & .Sat. in 1893, returning Mon. & Thurs.) through the Baie de£ Chaleurs to Gaspi (ca. 150 M., in 16 hrs. ; fare $3.50). The points called at include Carleton, near the base of Aft. fracadie- gash; Maria and New Richmond^ on Cascapedia Bay. which receives the waters of the Catcapedia River, a famous salmon-stream; Bonaventvre ; New Carlisle; Fatpdbiac, one of the main seats of the great fishing-house of Robin & Co., whose headquarters are in Jersey; Port Daniel, with a fine harbour; Newport; Pabos ; a.ni Grand River. The stearaer then rounds Cape Despair or Cap d^Espoir, calls at Cape Cove, and a few miles farther on passes between the lofty cliffs (400-500 f t ) of Bonaventure Island, on the right, and the Perci Rock (Le Rocher Perci), on the left. The latter, a huge mass of red sandstone, 290 ft. high and 1500 ft. long, is one of the lions of the Gaspe coast and derives its name from the arch or tunnel (ca. 50 ft. high) by which it is pierced. A second arch fell in some years ago. The top of the rock is occupied by swarms of sea-gulls and cormorants. The steamer calls at the cod-fi'^hing village of Perci, behind which rises the conspicuous Mt. St. Anne (1230 ft.). It then crosses Mai Bay to Point St. Peter. This forms the S. extremity of Oaspi Bay , which we now ascend, with the dangerous beach of Orand Oreve to the right, and Doiiglattown, at the mouth of the St. John^ on tlie left. Cape Oaspi, 690 ft. high, is the N. horn of the bay and the E. extremity of the peninsula. To the left, above Douglastown, opens the secure harbour of Oatpi Basin, on which lies the destination of the steamer, Gaspe or Gaspe Basin {Baker Ho., $1.25; Morin Ho., $1), a small port with about 1800 inhab., includ- ing York and Oaspi Sands, and important fisheries of salmon, mackerel, and cod. It is frequented in summer for the excellent angling in the York 6* 68 Route 13. , BATHUKST. From Quehec and Dartmoutli rivers and the p:ood boating in the Basin. Cartier landed here in 15)4, takini^ possession of tlie country in tlie name of the Kinp; of France. In 1627 a French fleet under Adm. de Koquemont was destroyed in Gaspe Basin hy the Kirkes (p. 39). In 1760 daspt- was captured ]>y Commodore Byron, and for a short time it was the capital of the independ- ent province of Qa.rrni)tion of an Irnlian name of unknown meaning:; accent on the last syllaMe), on the estuary of which these towns lie, is second to the Restigouche alone among the salinun-rivers of New Hrun- awick. It is formed by the junction, a little way above Newcastle (see below), of the North- West Miramichi and the Sou>h-^yes> Miramirhi , and each of these has an extensive net-work of tributarie'*, some of which over- lap the tributaries of the St. .Tohn. The best salmon-pool- are on the S. W. Jliramichi fwhich is nally the main river) and its branches, but good fishinijT is obtained throughout the entire system. The district drained by the Miramichi is, perhaps, 6(XiO sq. M. in extent, and much otitis still almost unexplored. It is covered by forests, which harbour larire quanti- ties of game and yield much valual)le spoil to the lumberman. In 1825 it was swept over l»y one of the largest forest-fires on record, which de- vastated 3,0'KJ,(X*0 acres of wood, destroyed property to the value of $1,000,ei:ictox , 117 M., Canada Eastern liailwan in 7 hrs. (fare $3.65). — This line intersects the I.C.R. at (9 M.) Chatham Junction (see below) and ascends the valley of the eyoiid(60l M.j Debert views of Cobe- quid Bay are obtained to the right. 612 M. Truro (55 ft. ; *Prince of Wales, plain but comfortable, $1^/2; Rail, liestaurant), a town of 5102 inhab., with manufactures of hats, hardware, iron and steel castings, machinery, saddlery, boots and shoes, woollen goods, and condensed milk, is situated on the Salmon River, about 2 M. from the head of Cobequid Bay. the eastern- most arm of the Bay of Fundy. It was founded in 1761 as a colony of loyal Irish settlers from New Hampshire. The streets are well laid out and shaded with flue trees; and altogether the little town makes a very pleasant and friendly impression. Among the chief buildings are the Post Office; the NormalSchool (about 200 students), with a statue of Dr. Forester, the founder of the free school system of Nova Scotia, in front of ic; an'avagt's 74 Route 14. HALIFAX. Arrival. Island (with an old Acadian and Indian hurial-^iround) and Old Bams, the sitf of an Acadian settlement. — Penny\s Mt.^ S'/a M. to the Is .p]. , com- mands a delightful *View, including the Cdbequid 3Its. (p. 7^) and North Mt. (p. 121), with Cape Blomidon. — The streams near Truro afford 8'>me fair fishing. Moose occur in the Stewiacke Mts., about 12-15 M. to the E. (Indian guides obtainable at Truro). Partridge, snipe, nnd wild-fowl are plentiful. — From Truro to Stellurton (Pictou) and C'tpe Breton, see R. 16. Beyond Truro the line runs to the S. and S. W.. through a dis- trict of no great interest. 620 M. Brookfield ; 630 M. Stewiacke^ on the Stewiacke River. — At (634 M.) Shubenacadie (accent on ante- penultimate) we cross the river of that name, which we follow for some distance. Stages run hence to (18 M.) Maitland, at the mouth of the river. — Near (646 M.) Enfield are the Oldham and tha Ren- frew Gold Mines., both profitably worked. At (651 M. ) Grand Lake Station the lake, well stocked with whitefish, lies to the riliht. A little farther on, Lorn/ Lake lies to the left. At (660 M.) Windsor Junction we are joined, from the right, by the Windsor & Annapolis Railway (see R. '20). We cross Rocky Lake. — 665 M. Bedford (Bedford, Bellevue, $2), at tiie head of the beautiful Bedford Basin (p. 82), is a favourite summer-resort of the llaligonians. — The train now skirts the shore of Bedford Basin (views to the left). 670 M. Rockingham (Hotel), with a large convent-school for girls. 674 M. Halifax, see below. 14. Halifax. Arrival. The Intercolonial Station (PI. E, 1), at which all trains arrive, lies on the N. side of the city, about 1 M. from the principal hotels. Cabs and hacks meet the train, and the tramway along Luckman St. and Barrington St. passes close to the station and near the hotels. The cabmen assault the arriving passenger with the most disagreeable vociferation, and the arrangements generally might be improved. The fare (50 c. each pers.) is exorbitant when more than one person uses the vehicle. The hotels do not send omnibuses or representatives to meet their guests (as they should), though some of the hackmen bear shields with the names of the diflerent hotels on their hats. — Cabs are also in waiting on the Steamboat Wharves., and the fare is the same. — It should be remembered that Nova Scotia time, as observed at Halifax and throughout the province, is about 1 hr. ahead of railwav {i.e. Eastern Standard; p. xiv) time. Hotels. Halifax Hotkl (PI. a; E, 4), 97-lU3 HoUis St., $2-3; Queen (PI. b; E.4), 114-115 Hollis St., $ 13/4-21/2 ^Wavekley (PI. c; D,5), 174 Pleas- ant St.. a quiet familv hotel, $21/2; Acadiax (PI. d •, E, 4), 88 Granville St. ; Albion (PI. f ; E."4), 20 Sackville St., $ I-IV2; Rotal (PI. g; E, 3), 119 Argyle St. — Restaurants at the hotels: Mitchell (confectioner), 25 George St.; Teas, 151 Hollis St.; Woolnorigh, 32 Salter St. Cabs. For each pers. 1 M. 25 c., IV2 M. 30c., 2 M. 40c., 2V2 M. 45 c., 3 31. 50c.; half-fare in returning; 1/4 hr. waiting free, each addit. 1/4 hr. 15c.; per hr. 75 c. ; with two horses $1. Between midnight and 6 a.m. (7 a. m. in winter) by agreement, not to exceed double fare. From railway- station or wharf to any point in the city, 50c. each pers. , incl. V2 cwt. of luggage. — Tramways traverse the entire city from N. to S.. wnth various branch-lines (fare 5c.; six tickets 25 c.). — Omnibuses run from the Post Office to the (3 M.) Dutch Village (fare 10 c). Steamers ply regularly from Halifax to Prince Edteard Island (p. 94), Sydney (p. 92), Port Mulgrave, (p. 87), Newfoundland (p. 99), Bridgetoater (p. 84), Lunenburg (p. 83), St. Pierre and Miquelon (p. 116), Yarmouth (p. 123), Boston (R. 40), New York (every 10 days), Baltimore, Liverpool 5b i ^ M ifi .7 f/ ( 2(1 vj, ^. ^ e'a. ■s^ v: « U '^ ;§ ** N- •^ ■^ "S TIM* l.'5 ^1^1 '-^^. A'*^ ^v tn ^ Situation. PIALIFAX. 14. Route. 75 (see R. 1 b), London (R. 1 b), Glasgow (R. 1 d), Hamburg., Jamaica. Anttcerp., Ha- vana, and many other ports. — Ferry Steamnfr ti> Dartmouth (p. 82) at frequent intervals. Amusements. Academy of Mii.Hc (PI. 1>. 4). Harrington St.; Orphans Hall (concerts, i tc). (rranvillr St. — Hkatiiig llitik. Tower Road (military concerts): Cvrling Rink. Tower Road: Grtrrison Cricktt Ground, Quinpool St.; Wanderers" Amatinr Athhtic Association^ see j). Si: Stndley Quoit Club. — Numerous Yucliti'xj and Jlowing li'ic^'^ take place in summer, liopal Nora tScotia Yacht Si/tiadron (PI. 1). (i), at the end of Pleasant St.; Wanderers'' Boat Cliib., at the toot of 3Iorris St. (PI. E. 5). Small boats may bf hirt d at tlie North Slip (PI, E. 2). at the Ferry Slip (Fl. E, 4), and at Jake's. P>e.edforacco, soap, and candles. The Province of Nova Scotia, of which Halifax is the capita!, has an extreme length of 360 .^I., with an average breadth of about 65 M. Its area is 20,900 sq. M., ei(ual to more than two-thirds of that of Scotland. The province, which consists of the peninsula of Nova Scotia proper and of the large island of Cape Breton, is almost wholly surrouuiled by water, beii\g connected with the mainland (New Brunswick) by a low isthmus about 15 M. wide. No part of Nova Scotia is more than 3) M. distant from the coast. The surface is considerably varied in cont(Uir but nowht-re exceeds 1200 ft. in height. The chief features are the Cobequid 3Its. (p. 73) and other ridges running parallel with the length of the peninsula. The coast-line towards the Atlantic is very irregular and contains many go(»d harbours. On the W. side, it is more even. The E. or seaward oide of N«jva Scotia is for the most part barren and rocky ; the best lands, such Citadel. HALIFAX. U. Route, tl as tho frnitful Annapolis Valh y (p. I'iO), are on tlio siilc nearest tiif mainland. About ouf-sixth of tlu- tntirc area is in crops or under psstur- a'jj;e. Wheat, oafs, and fruit (especially apples) are ;inion^ the chief products of the soil. Cattle-reariny: and dairy-farming are aNo carried on. I.umberinu: is less important than tornierly, owiiit; to the exhaustion of thr best tinil>er. Manut'ai turis are cnmparatively undevelo]ied. The mineral wealth of the province is jireat, including coal (comp. pp.93, 8."). 73), iron, gyp-nm. and i;old. The characteristic indu.>-try of Nova Scotia is, however, the fisheries, which are verv larLre anil valuable, employing about 14. OLIO boats and 2;%000 men. The value (d' ;he total catch in 1892. cliielly consisting of cod, mackerel, lobsters. herrin<.r, and haddock, was $6,340,724, or one-thinl of that of the total catch of Canada. In 1893 Nova Seotia , 4). a large and handsome building in roil brick. Opposite, and adjoining eacli other, are the extetisivc Iktrrack^ of the Royal Engineers iirxA Artillery (PI. D, 4). Strangers are not now aUowed to enter the cita- del without special permission, which is not easily obtained; but they will obtain some idea of its strength — it ranks as a fortress of the first class — by au external survt-y of its glacis, its deej) mor.r. its heavily-armed bastions, and its massive masonry. On tht; .slope below the entrance to the citadel is a small structure erected as a Town Clock., and now occupied by Goverument. The original defences of Halifax consisted of a wooden palisade and block-houses, the lines e.f which are roughly indicated by the present Salter, Barrington. and Jacob Sts. (comp. PI. D, E, 3. 4). A systematic re- construction of the entire series id fortilications was be_'un at the time of the Revolutionary War. Citadel Hill seems to have been first regularly fortified about 1778, l)ut the nucleus of tlio present fortress is due to the Duke of Kent, who was Commander of the (iarrison in 1794-7, while 78 Route 14. HALIFAX. Parliauienf Bitilrling. almost every snhseqnt nt year bas seen alteraiions and additions. The iiarrison of Halifax usually amounts to about '2lN)(tmen. including one or two regiments of the line, two batteries of artillery, two companies of engineers, and detacliinents of the Coiuiuissariat . Transport, and Hos- pital Corps. Its commander is a general, who acts as Administrator of the Uoniinion of Canada in the absence of the Governor (General. The *View from outside thj S. K. bastion includes the central part of the city, the beautiful harbour, with its shipping and fortilied i-iands tcomp. p. b(t) : the town of Dartmout'i (p. 82). on the opposite side of the harbour, with its large lunatic asylam ; the fortilications at the m(.»ut!i of the harbour; and the distant ocean beyond. Hy walking round the outside of the ramparts, we may survev cverv part of the citv in (urn. backed by the Xorth-Wist Arm (p. S2) towards the W. and by Bedford Hasin (p. 7i) towards the N. At the S. W. base of thu Citadel Hill lie the Pulilic Garr the Glacis or Pavilion Barracks (PI. D, E, 3), at the N. end of the irlaiis. with the quarters for the married men. Follow in;iIIoLLi.s Strk.?;t( PI, 1), E,4,5),with its banks, insurance-oftices. and shops, towards the S. (risiht), we soon reach ( left) the Dominion Building ( PI. 1).4), a substantial jtile of brown freestone on a iiranite basement, with the Post Office and Customs Department on the ground-floor and the Prorincial Museum u])stairs. The museum contains specimens illustrating the /.oology, botany, and mineralogy of Nova Scotia, Indian curios . historical relics, and a few portraits. A tiilt pyiamid represents tlu' amount of iiold jiroduced by the province in \S&2-di (valued at * iO,86U.9 0). Nearly opposite the Dominion IJuildinjr stands the *Provincial Parliament Building (PI. D- 4), a sonibre but somewhat imposinir stone buildinir. linisheil in ISIS and snrroninle(l by a small tree- planted siiuare. The Legislature generally meets in February. At the S. end of the building is the CliambKr of the Le Ci'iiucil. with portraits of George II. and <^ueen Caroline, posite side of the way, in the next bkvk, are the Queen and Halifax Hotels (p. 74). To the right, near Bishop St., are the grounds of Govern- ment House ( PL D, 4), the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor. the front of which faces Pleasant St. The building dates from 1800-1805. About 1/4 M. farther on, Hollis St. ends at the Royal Engineer Yard (PL D, 5), usually known as the Lumber Yard. In the mean- St. Paul's Church. HALIFAX. 14. Route. 79 time we may turn to tlie right and follow Pleasant Street i PI. D. iS) batrk towards tlu' centre of the fity. To the left lie the Presbyterian L(idie.<' College and tht; Waverley Hotel (PI. c, D b- p. 74). A little farther on. to the left, is (lovemment Houie (see p. 78). opposite whi(di is St. Paul's Old Churchyard | PI. 1). 4l. with a monument, surmounted by a carved liun, to the memory of two Nova Scotia offlcer.s killed in the Crimea. St. Mattliew's Presbyterian Church (PI. 1; I), 4). to the riuht. has a lofty spire. It is adjoined by the Brigade Office and the Academy of Mmic ( PI. I). 4; p. 7;')). ()p|iosite tlie l.ist is the Glebe House, the oftlrial residence of the Archbishop of Halifax, ailjoininj: which, in Spring (iarden Road, is *St. Marys Cathedral (PI. 1). 4; R. C. I. the most conspicuous ecclesiastical edifice in Halifax, with an elaborate granite fa<,'ade ;iii (I'l. D. 4), with the County Gnol hehiml it; the oM and iinsiglifly Drill ! the cathedral of llalifa.v , Init the jiresent pro-cathedral is St. Liik<\< (PI. D, 4. fii. .Morris St. At the opposite end of the Parade stands the handsome new City Hall (PI. E. 3, 4 ), occu]>ying the site of the oriL^inal buibiing of Dalhousie College (p. 81 ). — Farther on , Barriim:ton St. becomes Lockman Street (PI. K, 3, 2) and runs out to the RaiUray Station (PI. E, 1), beyond which it makes a final change of name to Cantp- bell Road (PI. E, 1). Granville Street {F\. E, 4), parallel to and between Hollis St. and Barrington St. , is one of the chief business-streets of Halifax and contains some important shops, newspa})er offices, etc. At its intersection with Prince St. stands the substantial building of the Young Men's Christian Association (PI. 3; E,4), with its reading- room and library. 80 Route 14. HALIFAX. Harbour. Loirer Water Street (PI. D, E. 5,4 I, hoi^iniiiii^at tlie Hoyal F.tiginecr Yard (p. 78), and Upper Water Street (PI. E, 8,2) skiit the water- side, with its innumerable (lockf^. wharves, and warehouses. The (ireen Market, held at the corner of George St. on Sat. morning, should be visited. At tlie point where Lower Water Street ends and Upper Water St. besrins extends H. M. Ordnance Yard (PI. E, 3), with its larjre stores of guns, ammunition, and other warlike material. Farther on. opposite the Long or Raihray Wharf (V\. E, 2), is a Grain Elevator, with a capadty of IT)! 1.(100 bushels. — To the right, a little farther on, is the Royal Naval Yard (Pi. E, 2 j strang- ers usually admitted on sending in their cards to the Superintend- ent), 14 acres in extent, founded in IT'iS and surrounded by a hiiili stone wall. It contains extensive storeliouses, machine-shops, and magazines, and all the usual appliances of a tirst-class dockyard. I'he Hospital Yard^ with the Naval Hospital (PI. E, 2), practically forms part of the Dockyard. — Opposite lies tlie Intercolonial Rail- iray Statioji (PI. E, 1). — A little farther to the N. is the huge Ijry Hock, the largest in Canada, being 610 ft. long and 10*2 ft. wide. It cost $l/)00,000. The '•'Harbour (PI. C-E. 1-7), G M. long.with an average width of 1 M., affords excellent deep-water anchorage at all states of the tide and is effectively sludtered by Macnab's ami (ieor^e's Islands. On the N. it communicates with Bedford Basin (p. 74) by a deep ciiaiinel known as the Narrows. The harbour is usually alive with all kinds of shipping, and on a Wright . 82). The S. continuation of Pleasant St. (see p. 79 I leads through the district of Freshirater to *Point Pleasant Park (PI. B, C, 6, ?j tram- way to the foot of Inglis St., PI. D, 5). occupying the extremity of the peninsula on which the city lies and recalling in its location Stanley Park at Vancouver(p. 2'24). The ])ark, which is 160 acres in extent, I)alli'ii., 4). about 14 acres in extent, and somewhat rt'callinir the I'.oston Public Garden ( p. 12), deservedly form one rd" the chief sources of Haligonian pride, aiul present a liighly attractive picture, with their beautiful shade-trees, well- trimmed swanl. pii-tHresipie lake, and gay flower-beds. The show of flowers is espi'cially brilliant in Aug. and the first half of September. A military band plays here in summer on Sat. (4-6 p.m. ), and il- luminated evening-fetes are held from time t^ time. On the N. the Public (rardens arc adjoined by the Athletic (irounds of the Wanderers' Cluh { PI. 1), 3 ), and beyoiid these stretches the Common (PI. D. 2.:)), a piece of Government property on which sham-tights and military reviews are occasionally held. To the S. of the Public Gardens stands the Comment of the Sacred Heart (PI. C,4), beyond whi<-h are tlie grounds containing the large Poor-House (PI. C, 4) and the Victoria deneral Hospital (PI. C, 4). — Spring Garden Road (p. 79). skirting the S. side of the Gardens, ends on the W. at Robie St.. where are a Methodist Church.^ St. Steph- en's or the Bishop's Chapel (PI. C, 8), and a wooden shed covering tlie foundation-stone of the proposed Anglican Cathedral, laid a few- years ago. A little to the S. of this point, in the block euflosi'd by Kobie, Morris , Carlton . and College Sts. . stanin(r thon its endowments have been greatly incnased by the liberality of 3/c. (leorje Munra (of New Yiirl\), Mi: Alexander McLeod., Sir Wiilnuii YoinKj^ and nthi'r generous Nova Sof)- tians. Tlie present charter of tae 1 niversity, which is undenominational, dates from 1863, with subsequt nt moditication?. The President is Dv. John Forrest, The original buildi.ig of the college stood on the site of the City Hall (see p. 79j. The University includes t'aculties of arts, lavv, medicine, and science, and is attended by ab(mt 301> regular and special students. It is well . ^^.jJJaedekeus Canada. (3 82 Roule 1-4. HALIFAX. Environs. appointed in every way and possesses excellent laboratories and a good law library. The ^Collection of Nova Scotia Birds, including a specimen of the rare red duck (Fulizula Labradora), is of great interest. The valu- able Akirs Collection of books and pamphlets i elating to the E. Prov- inces of British Korth America has been temporarily deposited in Dalhousie College. Gottingen Strret (PI. D, 3, 2, 1) leads towards the N. from Citadel Hill. Immediately to the right is the Military Hospital (PI. D, 3), with the Garrison Chai el (PI. E, 3 ; service with military band on Sun. morning) behind it. Farther out are the Old LacVes' Home and the Deaf and Dumb Asylum [V\. D, 2; r.). Still farther on , to the right, in pleasant grounds, lies Admiralty House (PI. D, 1), the resi- dence of the Vice- Admiral in command of the station. .lust beyond this, on the same side, is the entrance to the largo Wellington Bar- racks (PI. D, E, 1), which have ac<-oramodation for about 1200 men (comp. p. 78). About '4 M. farther on is a hill crowned by the small Fort Nefdham. We may \ary our route in returning from this point by following North Street and Brunsvick Street (PI. E, 2, 3). The latter contains the Old Dutch Church (1.), a tiny edifice erected in 1755 for the use of the German Lutheran immigrants (p. 76). Nearer the centre of the town are St. J St. Marg reVs Bay, is the Rocking Stone, a huge mass of granite weigiung 160 tons, which can be easily moved by a small wooden lever. — The Chain Lakes, the source of the water-supply of Halifax, lie 3 M. to the S.W. Dartmouth (Acadian Ho.), a town with 6249 inhab.. on the E. side of Halifax Hp'bour, is reached from Halifax by ferry-steamers plying every 1/4 hr. (I'nrc 4 c. •, wharf at the font of George St., PI. E, 4). (It was formerly also reached by railway, but the bridge across the ^arrows collap=!ed in July, 1893.) It possesses a large sugar-refinery, rope-walks, a marine railway, and a skate-factory. About I'/z M. from the town, on a height overlooking the harbour, is the large Mt. Hope Lunatic Asylum. Below Dartmouth lies Fort Clarence, commanding the entrance to the Eastern Passage, a narrow channel with numerous shoals, supposed to be impassable for large ves'^els until the Confederate steamer 'Tallahassee' proved the contrary by making her escape through it in li-62. A pieaFant drive may be enjoyed among the lakes to the N. of Dartmouth , a favourite skating-resort in winter. About 4 M. to the N. of Datmouth are the Montagu Gold Minet. — Cow Bay, 7 M. to the 8.E, of Dartmouth, has a fine beach and is resorted to for sea-bathing (good surf). Small steamers ply frequently to ifacnob's Island (p. 80), a favourite picnic resort, with a sandy beach, a ligh house, a fort, and a rifle-range. — From Macnab's Island the steamers go on up the *North "West Arm (PI. A, '2-7), formerly called the Sandwich River, a charming sheet of water, about ''''o lu :iu +0 so "^v:^ *»<^. ^. ^K> ^-^^ '!?. j>^>,^:^ °''>'«>-",,^, % ^^ ri .Q>. Oft ''!«--'^. / , is^^"/*** A '^j / "I '"^"l^-^^J^^ ^*l **%- ''^^J Q fiv '^- 'V,^ 'J; ''Vy ^^ < \A V'^J.,. ■'^^P "^-^ ''4. / •'5'-'> V ^ '5^,, UK) 3 Stabile Aiiles 1 : 2.200.000 u u) 40 30 *o jo UP 70 ao !Ki lou im uu lau i-i-o '-''^ c:i.,,„;,i,.,.c , m) _Jpo 1U,_120 t3g__^ _iy Blln,noh-os LUNENBURG. 15. Route, 83 31/2 M. long and i/s M. wide. On its N.E. shore lie many of the most attractive summer-residences of Halifax. At its head lies Mtlville Island, with the military jtrison, in which American prisuners-of-war were con- fined in 1812. The Arm is a favourite boating -resort and alao affords some fishinp. Fn m Halifax to Bridgeicater and Yarmouth, see R. 15; to Wind$oi\ Annapolis, and St. John, see R. 20; to Cape Breton, by railway and steamer, see R. 16; to Pictou (and Prince Edtoard Island), see R. 17-, to Boston by steamer, see R. 4 c. 15. From Halifax to Bridgewater and Yarmonth. A steamer of the Yarmouth Steamship Co. plies weekly to Yarmouth (fare $3), calling at various intermediate points; a steamer of the Coastal Steam Packet Co. plies twice weekly to Bridgewater ($2); and a steamer of the Lunenburg d- Halifax S.S. Co. rung twice weekly to Lunenburg ($2). The above fares do not include meals. The E. coast of Nova Scotia, which these steamers skirt, is indented by numerous bays and inlets and fringed with thousands of rocks and islets. Halifax, see R. 14. The steamer descends the harbour, passing George^s Island {ip. 80) and MacnaVs Island (p. 80). At Htrriny Cove (^r.) is a cairn commemorating George Brown, the oarsman, a native of the place. We then round Cheludo Head and Cape Sam- hro, and steer towards the "VV. Numerous shipwrecks have occurred here. To the right, farther on, opens the wide St. Margaret's Bay. Straight ahead of us is the large Mahone Bay, with the towns of Chester (see below) and Mahone Bay, at which some of the smaller steamers call. Che&ter (Love tt Ho., %\.), also reached daily from Halifax by coach (45 M., in 6-7 hrs.), is prettily situated on a hill overlooking Mahone Bay, and is a favourite Nova Scotian sximmer-resort on account of its scenery, boat- ing, bathing, and fishing fsea and fresh water). The village was founded by New Englanders in 1760 and now contains about 1000 inhabitants. Mt. Aspotogan (.500 ft.) is a fine view-point. The course of the Lunenburg boat is laid for Cross Island Light, to the S. of Mahone Bay, passing which (left) we enter Lunen- burg Bay. 45 M. Lunenburg (A'mp'a Hotel, $2), a thriving little seaport, with 4044 inhab. , settled in 1753 by German immigrants (comp. p. 76) and still largely retaining its German character. It has a good harbour, ship-building yards , and a large fishing-fleet, and exports large quantities of fish. — On the S. side Lunenburg Bay is bounded by the Ovens Peninsula, so called from the curious caverns which penetrate the cliff for hundreds of feet. A consider- able quantity of gold was formerly found on this peninsula, but little mining is now done. — Railway from Lunenburg to Middleton, see p. 121. The Bridgewater steamer now rounds Ovens Head, steers between Rose Head (r.) and Cross Island , passes Point Enrage, and runs between Calf Point (r.) and Ironbound Island (1.), with its light- house. It then ascends the long narrow estuary of the La Have River to — 6* 84 Boute 15.. LIVERPOOL. 67 M. Bri^gewater {Fairview , $1.50), a busy little port of 1500 inhab. , with a lumber-trade and various manufactures. It contains the headquarters of the Nova ScrAia Central Railway (see p. 121). Coaches run hence to ('28M.) Liverpool (see below). Good trout-fishing is to be had in tlie neighbourliood. Rounding Cave La Have, on an island off the mouth of tlie river, the steamer steers to the S.W., passing the mouth of Port Medway. Farther on , Coffin Island , with its lighthouse, marks the entrance to Liverpool Bay, near the head of which, on the river Mersey, lies — 105 M. Liverpool (Grove Mansion., $ 1.50), a small seaport, with 2465 inhab., a trade in lumber and fish, ship-building yards, and several manufactories. The inland portion of the E. half of the peninsula of Xova Scotia is thickly studded with lakes, the largest of which is Lake Rossignol (12 M. hy 8 M.), about 20 M. from Liverpool. These lakes, with their connecting streams, afford excellent fishing, and are easily explored, with competent guides, in canoes or flat-bottomed boats They may also be approached from Annapolis (p. 121) or from some of the intermediate stations on the Nova Scotia Central Railway (comp. p 121). The next bay of any size beyond Liverpool Bay is Port Mouton^ visited by De Monts in 1604 and named to commemorate the loss of one of his scanty supply of sheep. Farther on are Little Hope Is- land {re\o\\mg red light), Port JoU, Lockport (a fishing-centre), Carter's Island (red light), and Gull Rock Ledye (wliite light). We then cross ti^.e wide estuaries of Green Harhour and Jordan River, pass Bony's Point and Government Point, and begin to ascend the sheltered Shtlhurne Harhovr. leaving McNutVs Island, with its two fixed white lights, to the left. 145 M. Shelburne (Atlantic Ho . , $2), a small fishing and ship- building port, with 1200 inhab.. lies at the head of a safe and beau- tiful harbour. About 1785 its population rose to 12,000, through the immigration of United Empire Loyalists , and for a brief space it seemed as if Shelburne were going to leave Halifax far in the rear. Coaches run hence to (39 M.) Liverpool (see above), Barring- ton (23 M. ; see below), and (70 M.) Yarmouth (p. 123). In leaving Shelburne Harbour ihe steamer rounds Cape Roseumy, the S. extremity of McNutt's Island. Farther on we pass Negro Is- land (red and white flashing light), off the mouth of the Clyde ; Blanche Island; and Port Latour, with some relics of the fort of the Sieur de la Tour. Beyond Baccaro Point (red light) we turn to the right and ascend Barrington Bay. To the left lies the sandy Cape Sable Island, supposed by some to be the 'Markland' on which Leif Ericson landed in 994. The Acadian settlement which afterwards occupied th3 island was broken up in 1758, and about 25 years later was replaced by New England Loyalists. Cape Sable itself, the scene of many shipwrecks, is an islet to the S. of the larger island, 173 M. Barrington (Barrington Ho.), at the head of the bay, has 1600 inhab. and considerable fisheries. — The steamer leaves PICTOU. 16. Route. 85 the open sea, and steers towards the N.W. To the left, at some distance, lies Seal Island, the 'Elbow of the 15ay of Fiindy', with its fixed white light. To the N. open Pubnico and Abuptic Harbours. We now cross the estuary of the Tusket River and thread the singular and beautiful archipelago of the * Tusket Islands. A little later the steamer passes Jebogue Point and enters Yarmouth Sound. To the left is Cape Fourchu. with its powerful light. 218 M. Yarmouth, see p. i'23. 16. From Halifax to Sydney. Cape Breton. Bras d'Or Lakes. Louisbourg. a. By Railway. 277 M. Intercolonial Railway in id hrs. (fare $6.10; parlour-car $1). rassengers for Pictou and Prince Edward Island (II. 17) diverge s.i SMlarton (see below). The trains connect at Mulgrave (p. 87j with the steamers running to Sydney through the Bras dOr Lakes, and travellers are strongly recommended to make this part of the trip by water, either in going or returning (comp. p. 88). — The meals provided at Grand Narrows (p. 88) are good, but the resources of the buffet-car are preferable to those of the other railway eating-houses. From Halifax to (G2 M.) Truro, .ve R. 13, The Cape Breton branch here diverges to the right (N.E.j from the main line and ascends the valley of the Salmon River, which flows to the left be- tween picturesque banks of red sandstone. Beyond (76 M.) Rivers- dale we quit the river. 90 M. Glengarry; 97 M. Hopewell (Hopewell Hotel), with a small spool-factory and a woollen mill. A little farther on we reach the East River (right), which we follow to (103 M.) Stellarton, a prosperous mining village with about 3000 inhab., depending mainly on the Albion Codl Mines^ the production of which averages 80,000 tons per annum. It is the junction of the branch to Pictou (see below). FsoM Stellakton to Pictou, 14 M., railway in 3/4 hrs. (fare 42c.)- — This line runs at first towards the W., passing (3 M.) Westville (Dufferin), with its coal-mines, and near (8 M.) Sylvester crosses the Middle River, affording a distant view of Pictou to the right. It then turns to the right (N.), skirting the 3Iiddle River, crosses Pictou Harbour by a long bridge (*View), and reaches — 14 M. Pictou (New Revere Ho., $11/2: U. S. Consul), a picturesquely situated little town of 2998 inhab., with a large trade in coal and several manufactories. Of late years, however, it has been rather at a standstill, having been supplanted +0 some extent by I^Tew Glasgow (p. 86). Its excellent harbour opens above the town into three arms, receiving the waters of the East. Middle, and West Rivers (comp. p. 88, and above). Immediately opposite lie the coal-wharves of Pictou Landing (p. 86). The principal building of th^; tovvn is the Pictou Academy, founded in 1818 on the model of Edinburgh University and now attended by 160 students. It stands near the highest part of the town and commands a line view. Among the graduates are Sir William Dawson (p. 27) and Principal < Jrant (p. 184). Pictou, which occupies the site of an ancient Indian village, was settled in il&i by a colony of Philadelphians, but made no great progress till 10 years later, when the first of several bands of Scottish Highlanders arrived. It is one of the chief centres of the legends of the Micmac demigod Glooscap (comp. p. 120). — The Pictou Coal Field covers an area of about 86 Route 16. NEW GLASGOW. From Halifax 35 sq. M. and is noted for the unusual development of some of its beds. The 16 seams known vary in thickness from 3 ft. to 34 ft. Steamers from Pictou to Charlottetow\ P. E.I., see R. 17. — Steamers also ply from Pictou to the Magdalen ' .andt (p. 98), calling at Georgetown (p. 98) and Souris (^. 93), and to Chet' j,mp^ in Cape Breton, calling otT Port Hood, Mabou Mouthy Margaree (p. i- j, and Pleas'tnt Bay. — In winter the iron steamer 'Stanley' plies from Pictou to Georgetotcn (comp. p. 95). 105 M. New Glasgow (30 ft.; Norfolk^ Windsor, Vendome, $ 1 V2-2, all unpretending; railway-meals at the last 50c., but see p. 85), a new and thriving little town of 4100 inhab., on the East River, with coal-mines, iron ami steel works, ship-building yards, glass- works, and various other substantial indications of a prosperous future. Iron, coal, and lime al' occur in the district in convenient proximity. A short railway, mainly for shipping coal, runs from New Glasgow to (8 M.) Pictou Landing (p. 8o). About 2 M. from New Glasgow (station on the railway to Pictou Land- ing) are the interesting works of the ^ova Scotia Steel and Forge Co., the only steel-works in Canada, with open-hearth converters, fine rolling-mills, large steam-hammers, etc. including those in its iron works, coal-mines, and glass-works, the company employs about i4(:0 men. In 1893 the first steel steamer of Nova Scotia was constructed and equipped at New Glasgow, these works supplying her shaft and other castings. — Among the coal- mines of the neighbnurhood may be mentioned the Brummond Pit , near Westville, which is 4200 ft. deep, employs 500 men, and produced 240,000 tons of coal in 1893. Its winding-engine (500 horse-power) will interest experts. — The rusty line running to the Albion Mines (p. 85) is the oldest railway in America. — An excellent *View of the town and district, ex- tending to Prince Edv/ard Island, is obtained from Fraser's Mt., the top of which is about P/z M. from the town by road. — A small steamer plies down the Fast River (which is tidal io a point some distance above New Glasgow) to (10 M.) Pictou (p. 85), affording a very pleasant trip. Beyond New Gl;\sgow we traverse a somewhat uninteresting dis- trict. We cross the Sutherland River and the French River before reaching (118 M.) Merigomish, where we have a view to the left of Merigomish Harbour. Tlie line then ascends to the top of a ridge, affording a view of Piedmont Valley (left), with retrospects (also to the left) of Northumhtrland Strait. Beyond the highest point (ilO ft,), near (127 M.) Avondale, we descend rapidly to (129 M.) Barney's River J (133 M.) Marshy Hope, and (141 M.) Brierlzy's Brook. A little farther on we come in sight (r.) of the attractive little town of (146 M.) Antigouisli (accent on the last syllable; Central Ho., Cunningham Ho., $1^,2-2), with the large and handsome Koman Catholic Cathe- dral of St. Ninian, the College of St. Francis Xavier, and an Academy for Girls. The town lies at the head of a picturesque but not very useful little harbour and contains about 2600 inhab., mostly of High- land blood, many of whom speak Gaelic- only. It carries on a trade with Newfoundland and is the distributing centre of a fine farming and dairy district. Many plea.int drives and walks may be taken in the neighbourhood. The Antigonish Mts.., in the Arisaig Penimnla, to the N.W. of Anti- gonish, reach a height of 1000 ft. and afford good views. The coast-village of Arisaig, with its long wooden pier, is a genuinely Highlaml colony. Cape St. George, forming the extremity of the peninsula, bears a powerful to Sydney. MULGRAVE. 16, Route. 87 lighthouse. — About 5 >I. to the S.W. of Anti!ioni;-e early in the 16th cent., while there is no record of the date of its extension to tije island. Cape Breton was included in a general way in the 'Acadia' of French Canada, but, save in connection with settlements mf de by Nicholas 88 Route 16, GRAND NARROWS. From Halifax Denys^ fiienr de Fronsac (seo p. 90), its name scarcely appearj^ in the history (if the 17th century. The peace of I'trecht (1713). however, called it into new importance. A few Acadians, from the parts of New France that had been ceded to England, took refuge in Cape Breton, which the French renamed /.oro (p. 87), and twicf weekly to Fort Hood (connecting l)y coach vith Mahci, Mdrgaree^ and Cheticamp). — Th;.' Ht. PieiTe and M^qudon SUanu-rs (sec li. 19) run throuL'h the liras I'Or Laki'S, call in;.' at Badd<;ck av;d Svdaev. The above were the arrangements for the summer of 1S93, but are liable to alteration. The traveller is, therefore, advised to consult the Halifax daily papers or apply at the offices of the stoamboat companies for the latest information. The voyage from Halifax to Port Hwckeshtiry is hardly recommended except to tho*e who are specially fond of the sea; hut no one should fail to make the trip between Mulgi-ave and Sydney through the quiet waters of the Bras d'Or Lakes, one way at lea^L For a general descrirti jn of Cape Bretou, see p. 87. Leaving Halifax Harbour, tlie steamer round? Hartland Pointy passes the entrances of Cow Bay (p. 82) and Cole Harbour, and runs to the E., along the coast. Like that to the W, of Halifa:* (R. 15") this shore is frayed by innumerable small inlets and lined with mon- ads islands: but few points on it come within the purview of the ordinary tourist. Our steamer passes most of it at night and makes no stops before reaching the Strait of Canso. Beyond Cape Canso, the easternmost point of Nova Scotia proper, we turn to the \V. and cross the broad waters of Chedabucto Bay. The small sea- port of Canso^ at the point, has about loOO inhab. and is tlie W. terminus of some of the Atlantic cables. To the N., as we cross the bay, is the island of Arichat (p. 90). Beyond Cape Argos and Eddy Point (both to the left) we enter the Gut or Strait of Canso or Can- seau, a narrow cut deep channel, 15 M. long and about 1 M. wide, separating peninsular Nova Scotia from the island of Cape Breton (p. 87). It is much used by sailing-vessels, which thereby avoid the long and sometimes dangerous voyajre round the E. extremity of the province. The banks of the channel, which was -excavated by the currents of the drift period', ave hilly, covered with trees, and dotted with villages. To the left, 5 M. below Mulgrave, is the site of Terminal City, where an American syndicate has blocked out a large city, intended — some day — to be the terminus of a line of swift steamers to Europe (comp. p. 68). Beyond Fort Hawkesbury (p. 88) , on the E. side of the strait, the steamer goes on through St. Georges Bay and Northumberland Strait to Charlottetorcn (p. 96). Passengers bouiul for Cape Breton by water, however, leave the steamer at Port Hawkesbury (p. 88), cross the Strait of Canso to Mulgrave (p. 87), and there join the steamer of the Bras d'Or Navigation Co. This boat retraces part of the route we have just traversed, but, instead of crossing Chedabuc- to Bay. steers tc the left, and threads the narrow Lennox Passage, between Cape Breton on the left and the islands of J^miTin and Arichat to the right. The steamer generally calls at Grandiyue, to land passengeit; for Arichat. 90 Route 16.. BRAS D'OR LAKES. From Halifax The island of Arichat or Isle Mad'ime^ 15 M. long and OM. wide, con- tains about 25U0 inhab., mainly Acadians. The chief place is the little fishing-town of Arichat (Sea View Ho. , 1000 inhab.), on the S. side of the island. The island is frequented by a few summer-visitors in search of good boating and fishing. Leaving Lennox Passage, the steamer ascends St. Peter's Bay, which is separated from St. Peter s Inlet^ part of the Great Bras d'Or Lake, only by a small isthmus about Vg M. across. Through this has been cut a short canal, 26 ft. wide and 13 ft. deep, which has practically divided Cape Breton into two large islands (comp. p. 87 ). Adjoining the canal is the small village of St. Peter's (Inns), founded originally by the French in 1636 but now occupied by Scottish Highlanders, Travellers going towards Halifax generally pass the night here on board the steamer (see p. 88). A steamer runs hence to East Bay (see below) twice a week, in summer. At the mouth of the narrow St. Peter's Inlet are a number of islands, on the largest of whi(;h (seen at some distance to the right) is a Roman Catholic chapel. Here, on St. Anne's Day (July 28th), the Micmacs (p. 66) of Cape Breton hold a grand festival, attended by various singular celebrations, which it will repay the curious visitor to attend. The Great Bras d'Or Lake, which we now traverse, has an ex- treme length, from the head of West Bay to the head of East Bay, of about 45 M., and an extreme width of about 20 M. Its depth variej from 90 ft. to 350 ft. The name is said to be, not French, but a corrupt form of an Indian or Spanish word (possibly from the same root as Labrador, sec p. 113), sometimes locally pronounced 'Bradoore'. It is surrounded by agreeably diversified and wooded hills (5-600 ft. high), and Charles Dudley Warner describes it as more beautiful tlian he had imagined a salt-water lake could be. The combination of its sheltered inland position with the ozone of its salt-laden breezes makes the summer climate very delightful. The course of the steamer lies almost due N. across the lake. To the left (S. W.) opens the West Bay, with its numerous is- lands. To the right (N. E.) is the long East Bay, with the Micmac village of Escasoni near its head. To the W. (1,), beyond the West Bay , are Malagawatch Harbour and the estuary of the Denys River (comp. p. 88), the latter named for its discoverer Nicholas Denys, Sieur de Fronsac, who was afterwards appointed Governor of Cape Breton (1654). The only stop made by the steamer on the Great Bras d'Or is at the Grand Narrows (see p. 88) , just before leaving it. It then passes through the 'draw' of the fine seven-spanned railway-bridge (p. 88) and enters the — Little Bras d'Or Lake, the body of which, excluding the long narrow arms connected with it, is about 10 M= long and 5-6 M. wide. Its greatest depth is nearly 700 ft. Its attractions are simi- lar to those of the Great Bras d'Or, but the smaller scale makes them even more fascinating. It 'offers many a charming vista of to Sydney. BADDECK. J 6. Route. 91 cliff where the gypsum mingles its white with the dark green of the overhanging spruce, and where the land rise? into lofty hills, witli their slopes dotted by cottages on little patches of meadow' (Boitri- not). The steamer continues its northward course, crosses the mouth of St. Patrick's Channel { 1. ; see below), and calls at — Baddeck (Telegraph Ho., Bras d'Or Tin., both unpretending, $11/2-2), a village with about 900 Higlilai\d inhab., situated on rising ground at the mouth of a pretty little bay. The name, accent- ed on the second syllable, is a corruption of the French form Be- deque, from an Indian word Ebedek. The fame of tliis little village was made by Charle.. Dudley Warner in his amusing booklet 'Bad- deck ; and that Sort of Tiling', and it is now frequented by quite a number of summer- visitors , in spite of whom it retains much of its native unsophistication. George Kennan, the Siberian traveller, has a cottage liere; and A. G. Bell (of the 'Bell Telephone') has built himself a beautiful summer-home on Red Point, immediately opposite the village, the red roof of whicli is conspicuous to the right as we approach tlie wharf, Mai.y pleasant walks and drives may be taken from Baddeck, and the facilities for boating trips are unex- celled. Fair fishing for brook-trout, sea-trout, aiid salmon is with- in reach. As at present arranged, the steamer reaches Baddeck at 10 p.m.. and loaves about 5 a.m., so that there is scarcely oppor- tunity to land, except fcr those who mean to wait for tlie steamer's return. One of the pleasantest drives is vhat round the head of Baddeck Bay to (7 31.) Mr. BeWs Hcuse (see above). On the outskirts of the village we pass Mr. Kennans House (1.). — Another pleasant round of about 10 M. may be made through Baddeck River Valley (falls). — A visit should also be made to *St. Anne's Bay, which lies about 10 M. to the N. of Baddeck and has been highly praised by Mr. 0. D. Warper. — A splendid drive of about 20 m. leads to Whycdcomagh, which is, ptrhaps, better reached by steamer (see below). About 6 51. to the ?f. of Wliycocomagh i" Lake AinsUe. the source of the Margaree. — Another picturesque road (carr. •, 25M.) leads to the Margaree River, famous for its trout and salmon fishing. Margaree Harbour, at its mouth, is one of the fishing-stations of the great •lersey firm, Robin &. Co. (comp. p. 67). — About 12 M. above Baddeck is a Micmac Reservation; and in summer there are generally a few lodges of these Indians close to the village, where their peculiarities may be studied and their baskets and bead-work purchased. — The indefatigable traveller may also roach Mabou and Port Hood frtm Baddeck by a stage- drive of 9-10 hrs. f50 M.). A small steamer makes daily trips from Baddeck to the Grand Nar- rows (p. 8S) and back , connecting with the express-trains in both direc- tions. — Steamer excursions are also made up the beautiful St. Patrick'* Chanml and Whycdcomagh Bay to (20 M.) Whycocomagh (Inn), a small village near the foot of the double-peaked >SaZ/ .ff«7? (720ft.). Opposite rises Indian Head (930 ft.). — A steamer also plies twice weekly in summer via Grand Narrowt to East Bay (p. 90). calling at Irish Cove and Big Pond. Leaving Baddeck Harbour, the steamer rounds Red Point (with Mr. Bell's house) and steers to the N. E. through the channel known as the Great Bras d^O:, which is about 2*2 M. long and ab- out 1 M. wide. To the righ^ lies Boularderie Island, 28 M. long and 2-3 M. broad, on the other side of which is the Liitle'Bras d^Or or 92 Route 16, SYDNEY. St. Andrew^s ChanneL which is 25 M, long and throughout a great part of its length 3 M. wide, the epithet 'little' apparently applying only to its narrow and tide-swept outlet on the Atlantic. The hills on the Peninsula of Ste. Anne, to tlie left of the Great Bras d"Or, attain a height of about 1000 ft. The steamer issues from the chan- nel and reaches the Atlantic Ocean between Cape Dauphin on the left and Table Head on the right. To the N. lie the Ciboux Islands. We now have about 20 M. of open ocean, rounding Point Aconi, the N. extremity of Bouhirderle Island, before entering the mouth of Sydney Harbour J wliich we reach beyond Cranberry Point. As we ascend the harbour we see coal-mines on both sides of us. North Sydney ( see below ) lies to the right, up the N. W arm. We, however, keep to the left and ascend the S. arm to Sydney. Sydney. — Hotels. Sydney Hotel, to be ready in 18i)4; McKenzie Ho., perhaps the least bad of the present hotels, $11/2-2; boarding-houses of Mrs. King., near the rail'vay-station, and Miss Hearn, on the shore, well spoken of. — French Vice-Constd; German Consul. — French gold and silver Cidna are sometimes met with in Sydney (comp. p. xiii). Sydney, a small seaport with 24'26 inhab,, is finely situated on the S. W. arm of one of the best harbours on the Atlantic coast, wliich, however, is ice-bound for several months each year, its chief trade is in coal, large quantities of which are produced in the district, but it also carries on a considerable general trade. From 1784 to 1820 Sydney was capital of the separate province of Cape , Breton (comp. p. 76 ). It is one of the cliief resorts of the French North Atlantic Squadron, and there is generally a French man-of- , war in the harbour in summer. Near the water's edge is the large / white Bourinot Mansion, long the home of Senator Bourinot, [ French Vice-Consul, and containing numerous interesting memen- \ toes of Sydney's intercourse with ,the French navy. The town is poorly built and presents few attractions to the visitor, unless he is specially interested in coal-mines. It is, however, the starting- point for a visit to Louisboury (see p. 93). At the end of the peninsula are some earthworks and the remains of the barracks of i the garrison formerly maintained here. From Sydney a steam-fe'^ry plies across the harbour four times daily to (5 M.J North Sydney (2513 inhab.; no good inns), another coa? -shipping port. 3ydney Harbour was originally named Upanish Bay., and has been knovn to British navigators since the i6th century. Le Moyne d'lber- ville, founder of Louisiana, sailed hen e in 1692 on his expedition to the Bay ot Tundy and the coast of Maine. Adm Walker took refuge here after his pusillanimous withdrawal from the expedition against Quebec in 1711 (p. 39) and asserted the British claim to Cape Breton by erecting a wooden cross, with an inscription, on the shore. A naval contest otl' the mouth of the harbour in 1781 resulted in the defeat of four small Brit- ish vessels by two French frigates. The town of Sydney was founded in 1784. One of the pleasantest Dkives from Sydney is that along the low cliffs overhanging the harboii.r to (12 M.) Victoria Mines (p. 93} and Low Point Lighthouse, Another may be taken along the S.W. Arm. Short steamer- rips can be made to the Little Bras d^Or. >St. Anne, etc. (pp. 90, 91). LOUISBOUKG. 16. Route. 93 The Sydney Coal Fields cover an area of about 300 sq. M., beside which the deposits are known to extend for a bmg distance under the sea. The coal, the first cargo of which is said to have been shipped tn Martinique in 1735 and which has been more or less regularly worked since i7o4, is of an excellent bituminous quality, and is readily sold at a remunerative price. In 1892 the total yield of the Sydney district was about 1.000,000 tons. Nearly 4000 men are employed in the mines. The Dominion Coal Co.. a syndicate of Canadian nnd United States capitalists, with its headquarters in Boston, has recently acquired or holds options over all the working mir es in the district. The oldest of these is the coal-pit of the General Mining Association, on the X. side of Sydney Harbour, the workings of which extend a long way under the sea, the vessels which enter the harbour passing over them. The pit. which yields 180.000 tons of coal annually, is the deepest in the neighbourhood and will repay a visit. On the S. shore of the harbour are the Victoria Mines. The other mines now actually worked by the Dominion Coal Co.. all to the S.E. of Sydney, are the Gardner (7M.); the Old Bridgeport (11 M); the International, at Bridgeport (13 M.)- the Glace Bay {i^^l.)\ and the Gowrie^ at Cow Bay (22 M. •, output 150,000 tons). All of these mines are connected by coal-railways with Sydney, and the Dominion Coal Co. is constructing a line all the way to (37 M.) Louisbourg (see below). Louisbourg. In the summer of 1893 Loiiisbourg could not be reached from Syd- ney except by a drive of 26 M. over a not very good road. The com- pletion of the railway of the Dominion Coal Co. (see above) will, however, make it easily accessible. This railway will follow the coast line pretty closely, passing near Glace Bay and Cow Bay. Farther on it crosses the Mira River., between Mtra Lake., on the right, and Mira Bay., on the left. Beyond this is Catalogne Lake. To the S. E. of the last lies Cape Breton. from which the island takes its nam-^ (see p. 87) ; and offshore lies the island of Scatari, the easternmost part of the Maritime Provinces. The present village of Louisbourg {MissO^Eanley''s Inn, with an inter- esting collection of relics) lies near the middle of Louisbourg Harbour, a safe and deep haven, 2 M. long and V2 ^I- wide, lying about 6 M. to the S. of Cape Breton. Close by are the remains of the so-called Grand Battery, while the remains of the fortified city of the French era are on the S. W. arm of the bay. Its inhabitants, about 1000 in number, are main- ly engaged in the cod-fisheries of the Banks of Newfoundland, but the new railway (see above) will undoubtedly make the place of consider^ able importance as a coal-shipping port. History. By the Treaty of Vtrecht (1713) France was left in possess- ion of the island of Cape Breton, the importance of which, as the key to Canada, the French determined to emjihasise by the construction of a fortress of the first rank. The bay then known as the Havre-aux-Anglais was chosen as the site of the new city, and over $ 10,(X)0,0(K) were ex- pended in gigantic fortifications. The population grew rapidly, mainly by the concourse of the French from Newfoundland and the Acadians from Nova Scotia, and Louisbourg soon became a name and place of great significance. It was the American rendezvous of the Frencli navy and the headquarters of a fishing-fleet employing large numbers of men. On the outbreak of the war of 1744 the New England settlements de- termined to attack this 'Dunkirk of America', a standing menace to their trade and fisheries; and an expedition of 4300 men, under William Pepper- rell, a merchant of Kittery, was fitted out in 1745 for the purpose. To the amazement of the world '"his force of Colonial militia, with the co- operation of the British West Indian Squadron under Commodore Warren, succeeded in capturing the .supposed impregnable fortress after a siege of seven weeks — one of the roost extraordinary feats in the annals of warfare. Pepperrell was created a baronet for his services. Louisbourg was. however, giveji back to France by the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle (1749). War broke out again in 1756 j and in 1758 an army of 1L6(X) men and a powerful fleet 94 Route 16. LOUISBOURG. were sent out from England to operate a^tiinstthe Frencli in Canada. This expedition entered Gohurtu Bay^ to the S. of Louishourg, where Pepperrell bad also landed, in .lune; and two months later, in spite of all that had been done to strengthen It against such an emergency, the city was surren- dered once more, with 5600 pri'oners-of-war and a large quantity of naval and military stores. Wolfe cciinmandod one of the divisions of the Britisli army and greatly distinguished himself in the siege. As Halifax had been selected as the British military headquax-ters for the Acadian provinces, the works of Louisbourg were entirely destroyed and its site deserted. The ruins of the French city and fortress lie on Point Rochefort, on the S. W. side of the harbour. The destruction by man and time has been .'^o complete that comparatively little now remains to outward view. 'Oreen mounds and embankments of earth enclose the whole space, and beneath the highest of them yawn arches and caverns of ancient mastnry. This grassy solitude was once the 'Dunkirk of America' ; the vaulted <■ j,verns where the sheep lind shelter from the rain were case- mates where terrified women sought refuge from storms of shot and shell, and the shapeless green mounds were citadel, bastion, rampart, and glacis. Here stood Louisbourg; and not all the efforts of its con- querors, nor all tue havoc t f succeeding times, have availed to efface it. Men in hundreds toiled for months with lever, spade, and gunpowder in the work of destruction, and for more than a century it has served as a stone quarry ; but the remains t)f its vast defences still tell their tale of human valor and human woe" (Parkman). 'If we take a position on the site of the King's bastion, the moht pro- minent point of the ruins, we see to the southwest the waters of the spacious bay of Oabams. Immediately below us are the remains of the casemates where the women and children found a refuge during the last siege .... It is quite easy to follow the contour of the fortifications unti' they come to the old burying-grounds near Rochefort and Eli^ck Points, where hundreds of New Englanders and of French and EnglisI soldi rs found their last resting-place in 1745 and 1758. No tombstone or cairn or cross has been raised ^ the ground has never been blessed by priest; the names of the dead are all forgotten; Frenchmen, Englishmen, and Colonists, Catholics and Puritans, now sleep in close proximity to each other, regardless of the war of creeds, beneath the green sward' (Bonrinot). The British lines in 1758 formed a semicircle round the city on the W. ; the Biirying Oround, above referred to, lies to the E. of the city, near the extreme point. One of the strongest works was on the island in the mouth of the harbour, but it was silenced by Wolfe with a battery, of which the remains may still be seen on Lighthouse Pointy the N.E. arm of the harbour. It is much to be desired that the Dominion Government should buy the site of this historic fortress, preserve ir as a public park, and erect a monument to both conquerors and conquered. Visitors to Louisbourg should be familiar with Parkmau^s account of the two sieges, given in 'A Half-Century of Conflicf (chaps, xviii-xx) and 'Montcalm & Wolfe' (chap. xix). See also Bourinot (Op. cit., p. 88) and Kings/ord^s 'History df Canada' (vols, iii and iv). Perhaps the fullest account of the second siege is in the Abi4 Casgrain's 'Levis et Montcalm' ■. .d over here. In 1760, when it was formally ceded to the English, ;t contained over 4000 inhabitants. The island was at first annexed to Nova Scotia, and granted to 100 English and Scottish gentlemen, whose efforts at colonizing were not very effica- cious. In 1770 it was made a separate province, but its name was not changed to its present form, assumed in compliment to the Duke of Kent, till 17:^ In 1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highland colonist", and 96 Route 17. CHARLOTTETOWN. Prince Edward from then till 1850 the immigration was considerable. The province joined the Dominion of Canada in 1873. Charlottetown ('Queen, unpretending, but clean and well spoken of, $1^2-2; Davies Ho., the largest, but not recommended, $2; Rocklin Ho.), the capital of Prince Edward Island, is pleasantly situ- ated on the S. side of the island, on an excellent harbour formed by the confluence of the Hillaborough or East, the York or North, and the Elliott or West Rivers. In 1891 it contained 11,374 inhab., almost exactly the same number as in 1881. It is regularly laid out, and the width of the main streets (^100 ft.) give it a spacious and invit- ing air. Most of the buildings are of wood, but there are also many substantial structures of brick and stone. Charlottetown is the chief port of the island and carries on a large export trade in farm pro- duce and fish. It also has some woollen mills. Port la Joie, as the Frenclf called Chai'lottetown, appears about 1750 as the seat of the executive of the island, w^ith a fort and a small garrison; but no houses seem to have been erected on the site of the present city till 1768, Tinder British rule. In 1775 the small capital was taken and plundered by two American cruisers, but Washington rebuked the officious privateers and sent back the captives and their property. In 1864 Char- lottetown was the seat of the conference at which the project of Canadian confederation first took definite shape. The focus of Charlottetown life and activity is Quebn Square, in which stand theprincipal public buildings, surrounded by grounds adorned with tasteful flower-beds. In the centre is the Provincial Bailding, a substantial stone structure, containing the halls of the Legislative Council and the House of Assembly (2nd floor), with portraits of P.E.I, statesmen, and the Colonial Library, with a good collection of books relating to Canada. To the right (E.) rises the Court House , from the flat roof of which , as from the cupola of the Provincial Building , an excellent *View is obtained of Charlottetown and its surroundings. To the W. of the Provin- cial Building are the Post Office and the Market House (market-days, Tues. & Frid.). Round the square, especially on the S. and W. sides, are the best shops of Charlottetown. Band-concerts are fre- quently given in Queen Square on summer evenings. In Great George St., a little to the S. of Queen Sq. , rises the large wooden Cathedral of St. Dunsto:!, (R.C.). To the E. of Queen Sqaare is Hillsborough Square, with the large Convent of Notre Dame. Adjacent, in AVeymouth St., are the Normal School and the Pri'>^ce of Wales College. — On a projecting point to the \N'. are the /' ^^s. with cricket and lawn-tennis grounds, and t^ie Government Hou<,^, overlooking the harbour. On the heights on the N. outskirts of the city is the College of St. I>un8tan, a large school for boys. The large Lunatic Asylum occupies a point projecting into the East River, and near it is the Trotting Park. The roads in the vicinity of Charlottetown are good and afford opportuni- ty for pleasant if not especially picturesque drives (livery rates very moder- Island. SUMMERSIDE. 17. Route. 97 ate). — The water-trips are more inviting. A small ferry-steamer crosses to Southport, on the opposite side of the Hillsborough River fview from Tea Hill). Near Southport is the new summer-hotel Langley Beach., to be opened in 1895. — A steamer running to fl8 M.) Orwell gives a good view of ffills- lorougfi Bay. — Steamers also af^cend the Hillsborough River (to Mt. Stewart; a very pleasant trip) and the West River. — A somewhat longer excursion skirts the shore to the W. to Crapaud. — Booting and Sailing can be en- joyed in tb^ harbour, rivers, and bay. — Shaw's Hotel, on Brackley Point., 14 M. to the X. of Charlottetown, is a favourite resDrt, reached by carriage. Railway E.vcursirns, see belov/. The narrow-gauge Prince Edward Island Railway runs from one end of the island to the other, with a winding f^onrse of nearly 170 M.. and sends off various branches. Charlottetown itself is 5 M. to the S. of the main line, but through-trains run from it to each of the termini. From Charlottetown to Tignish, 117 M., in 6 hrs. (fare $ 3.50) ; to (49 M. ) SuMMKBsiDE in 2^/4 hrs. ('$ 1.45"). — Leaving the station, at the E. end of the city, the train turns to the left (N. ), quits the Hillsborough River., passes St. Dunstaris f p. 961 and ('d M.) Cemetery Station, and joins the main line at (5 M.) Royalty Junction. Here it turns to the left and vuns towards the W. through a fertile agri- cultural district of no marked features. Numerous comfortable farm- houses are seen, seldom clustering into villages. AtflO M.l Milton we cross the headwaters of the York River. 17 M. North Wiltshire. Several snow-fences are passed here ano at other parts of the line. — 21 M. Hunter River is the station for (7 M. ; stage) the Seaside Hotel at Rustico, on the N. shore, one of the most popular bathing, boating, and fishing resorts in the island, with a good sandy beach. Farther on, the Hunter River flows to the left of the railway. — From (32 M. ) Emerald Junction a branch-line runs to the left to (12 M.) Cape Traverse (Lansdowne Hotel), where it connects with the winter mail-service to Cape Tormentine (see p. 71). — From (41 M.^ Kensington, a thriving village with 1000 inhab,, coaches run to (7M.) Malpeque, at the mouth of Richmond Bay, with the popular North Shore Hotel ($2). Ine head of Grenville Bay is about 4 M, to the N.E. — Beyond Kensington the line runs to the S.W. and near (45 M.) New Annan reaches the narrowest part of the island, where the inroads of Richmond Bay on the N. and Bedeque Bay (p. 97) on the S. reduce its width to S^'2 ^^• AQM.S\imm.eTBide( Clifton Ho., $2; RussHotel), a thriving little seaport of 2883 inhab., with an export-trade in farm-produce and the well-known Malpeque oysters, is the terminus of the best steamboat- service between Prince Edward Island and the mainland (comp. p. 94). The train runs on to the wharf, alongside the steamer. The large summer-hotel on an island in the harbour has long been closed. The line beyond Summerside calls for little remark. 54 M. Miscouche, with its two-spired church, to the right ; 61 M. Wellington; 71 M. Port Hill Station, about 3 M. from the ship-building village Baedekee's Canada. 7 98 Route 17. TIGNTSH. on Richmond Bay. At ( 80 M.') Portage the island is only 4 M. wide. The N. end of the island, which we now reach, is largely inhabited by Acadians (p. 77). — 104 M. Alberton (Albion), on Cascumpec Bay, seen to the right as we approach, is a prosperous ship-building and fishing village (800 inhab.). The train backs out of this station, which is one of the N. termini of tlio line, and runs towards the N. 117 M. Tignisli {Capt. Frank GallanVs Boarding House^ plain but comfortable ), the terminus of the railway, is a small village (450 inhab. j but of importance for its fisheries. The inhabitants, who are French and Highland Roman Catholics, support a large church and convent. Tignish is about 8 M. from North Cape^ tbo northernmost extremity of the island (lighthouse-, 47° 3' N. lat). From Charlottktown to Souris, 60 M., railway in 3-41/0 hrs. (fare $ 1.80) ; to Georgetown (46 M. ) in 2\ 3-81/2 hrs. (fare $ 1.40). — From Charlottetown to (6M,) Royalty Junction^ see p. 97. Here we turn to the right (N.E.) and ascend the fertile valley of the Hills- borough River (not visible at first). — 14 M. Bedford is the station for th'3 '-'Acadia Hotel (good cuisine; $2), situated 41/2 M. to the N., on Trncadie Bay, tlie site of an early Acadian colony (carriages to meet the trains during the season). The attractions of this resort include a good sandy beach and macli.erel fishing in the bay. — Beyond (17 M.) Trncadie we see the Hillsborough to the right. — 22 M, Mount Stewart^ a ship-building village with 600 inhab., near the head of the Hillsborough River, is the jumition of the branch-line to Georgetown (see below). From Moixt Stewart to Georgetown, 24 M., railway in IV4-IV2 ^^- — This line crosses the Hillsborough and runs towards the S.E. The chief intermediate station is (18 M.) Cardigan, at the head of navigation on the Cardigan River. — 24 M. Georgetown (Commercial Hotel) ^ a small seaport with about 1500 inhab., situated on a peninsula between the rivers Car- digan and Brudenell. It carries on a brisk trade in agricultural produce. Steamers ply hence to Chariot tetotcn (p. 96), Pictou (p. 85), the Magdalen Islands (see below), and various P.E.I, ports. The Souris train keeps to the N. of the Hillsborough River and runs towards the E. Beyond (31 V2 ^0 ^iorell^ on the Morell River, we skirt St. Peter's Bay (leii). 881/2 M. St. Peter's (Prairie Hotel), a village with 500 inhab., at the head of the bay, has important sal- mon-fisheries, while the sea-trout in the bay afford good sport. 60 M. Souris (Sea View, $ 11/2)5 a village with 1000 inhab., lies on Colville Harbour. It carries on a trade with the French island of St. Pierre [p. 116), and steamers ply hence to Pictou (p. 80), the Magdalen Islands (see below), and various P.E.I, ports. It is about 14 M. from East Point, the end of the island in this direction. About 50 M. to the N. of East Point, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, are the Magdalen Islands, reached in about 16 hrs. by a weekly steamer sail- ing from Pictou (p. 85) and calling at Georgetown (see above) and Souris (see above). They are sometimes visited for the sake of the sea-trout fishing; but the accommodation for tourists is of the most primitive de- scription. Of the thirteen islands, which have a total population of about 3000 hurdy Acadian fishermen, the largest is Coffin Jtland, and the most NEWFOUNDLAND. 7.9. Route. 99 important Amherst. During the cod and mackerel flsliing seasons the is- lands are frequented by hundreds of Canadian and American boats. The industries of loh-ter fishing and canning are also important, and in winter large quantities ot seals are capturod on tlie floating ice. The Bird Isles are haunted by immense numbers nf sea-birds of various kinds. Deadman's Jsle, besung by Tom Moore, lies about 8 M. to the W. of Amherst. 18. Newfoundland. By the Rev. Moses Harvey^ LL.D.^ F.iJ.S.C, Author of 'Newfoundland ; the Oldest British Colony.'' Approaches. St. John's (p. 105) is reached from Halifax (p. 74; 490 M.) in about 2 days by the steam ts of the Red Cross Line, sailing every 10 days (saloon fare $18). and of the nadian ,{• Newfoundland Steamship Co., sail- ing fortnightly (fare $15). Steamers of the Allan Steamship Co. call at St. John's fortnightly on their way from Liverpool to Halifax and Philadel- phia, but do not call at Halifax on their eastward trip (fare from St. John's to Halifax $20). The vessels of all three lines are reported to be safe and comfortable. — From Montreal (p. 19: ItTO M.) St. John's is reached in 4 days by steamers of the Black Diamond Line "^fare $30), and of the Dobell Line (fare $25), sailing every 10 days. — Fnuu New York (p. 7; i2(X) M.j St. John's is reached l)y steamers of the Red Cross Line in 5-5'/'j days, including a 'stopover' of 1/2-I day at Halifax (comp. above; fare $34). — From Liverpool (1930 M.) St. John's is reached in 7 days by steamers of the Allan Lite and the Canadian d- Newfoundland Line (see above), each sailing fortnightly (fare about $50). General Sketch. The large island of Newfoundland t occupies a pe- culiarly commanding position off the shores of the Dominion of Canada. Stretching right across the entrance of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, it affords access to its waters both at the N. and S. extremities. The S.W. shore, at one point, approaches within 70 M. of Cape Breton, while its N. ex- tremity is within 12 M. of the coast of Labrador, from which it is separ- ated by the Straits of Belle Isle (p. 2). It might be compared to a huge bastion, thrown out into the N. Atlantic, which, if duly fortified and armed, could be made the Gibraltar of the surrounding seas. Cape Spear, its easternmost projection, is but 1640 M. from the coast of Ireland, so that it forms as it were a stepping-stone between the Old and "New Worlds. In regard to size, it ranks tenth among the islands of Ihe globe. Its greatest length, from Cape Ray to Cape Norman, is 317 M.; its greatest breadth, from Cape Spear to Cape Anguille is almost the same. It lies between 46° 36' 50" and 51° J9' N. lat. and between 52° 37' and 59° 24' 50" W. 'on. Its area is 42,000 sq. M.. or about one-sixth larger than Ireland and almost equal to the State of New York. Its circumference, measur- ing from healiand to headland, is about 10 K) M.. but so de-^ply indented is it by bays and arms of the sea, that its coast-line is almost double that extent. In shape it is roughly triangular. A glance at the map shows that it is almost cut in two by the large bays o. Placentia and Trinity. The S. peninsula thu.s formed is called Avalon .nd is joined to the main body of the island by an isthmus which at its narrowest point is but 3 M. in width. A long narrow peninstila, called Petit Nord, stretches northerly to the Straits of Belle Isle, The S. peninsula, having an extensive frontage on the Atlantic and many tine har- bours and bays in proximity to the best inshore fishing-grounds and the Great Banks, is by far the most thickly populated and commercially im- portant part of the island (comp. p. 106). The coasts of Newfoundland are guarded by ramjiarts of rock, rising in bold cliffs and headlands to a height of 300-400 ft. At frequent inter- t The natives usually accent the word on the last syllable, the English on the second, the Americans on the first. The first pronunciation is pre- ferable, the second allowable, the third execrable. 7* \00 Route 18. NEWFOUNDLAND. Minerals, vals, however, this repellant wall is cleft by deep fjords, often 30-50 M. wide at their mouths and running 50-90 M. into the land, while smaller branches diverge on either side. These splendid bays are not only of immense economical importance, as bringing the fish, so to speak, up to the very doors of the fishermen, but are also possessed of such grand- eur of scenery as will rank them , when better known and more acces- sible, as the equals of the best that Norway has to show. On leaving the rugged coast-line we find the outer interior of the island to be a hilly country with eminences of no great elevation. Around the heads of nearly all the bays are large tracts of good land, covered with fine timber and fit tor agricultural and grazing purposes. The inner interior is an elevated undulating plateau traversed here and there by ranges of low hills, the surface being diversified by valleys, woods, countless lake;^ and ponds , and numerous marshes , which are generally shallow and could easily be drained. Fully a third of the surface of the island is covered with these lakes and lakelets, which abound in trout and other fish. All the great hill-ranges havL' a N.E and S.W. direction, and all the other physical features, such as bays, lakes, and rivers, have a simi- lar trend, the cause of this conformation being doubtless glacial action. The principal mountain- ranges are the Long Range, the C«pe Anguille Range, and the Bloinidoris, on the W. coast, and the Black River. N. Harlock, Sawyers, and Chissel IlillSt on the E. side of the island ^ while a set of re- markable isolated, sharply peaked summits, known a.s ''Tolts\ are distrib- uted over the interior, rising abruptly at intervals out of the great central plateau, and forming admirable landmarks for the Indian or the sportsman. The three largest rivers are the Exploits, the Humbe)', and the Oan- der. There are numerous smaller streams fairly entitled to rank as rivers. It is along the valleys traversed by the various rivers that the greatest extent of fertile lands and the heavy forest-growth are found ; and when these valleys are made accessible by the new railway across the island, it may be expected that they will become the seats of a large agricultural population. At present, agriculture is carried on upon a com- paratively small scale, the attention of the people being mainly devoted to the fisheries. The area of land at present under culture does not exceed 60,000 acres. The reports of the Geological Survey show that in the great valleys alone there are nearly 3,000,000 acres fit for settlement and capable of sustaining a large population ^ while the aggregate of areas elsewhere of arable and grazing land is 2,000,000 acres. There are, how- ever, vast areas which are hopelessly barren, while the interior proper is yet but partially explored. Grand Lake, the largest in the island, is 5631. in length and lS'2sq. M. in area. Red Iiid'an Lake is 37 M. long, with an average width of 2 M. Gander Lake, through which a river of the same name Hows, is 33 M. in length. The scenery around these lakes is generally very fine. Minerals. Among the copper-producing countries of the world New- foundland takes a high place. Iron -pyrites of the best quality is found in many localities ; and from a mine in Pilley's Island, in Jfotre Dame Bay^ this ore is now shipped in large quantities. Rich deposits of lead, hold- ing a large percentage of silver, are found in Placentia and Port-ii-Port. The carboniferous rocks are largely developed in St. Georges Bay., where there is a coal - area 25 M. wide by 10 M. in breadth. Recently the re- ports of the Geological Survey announce the discovery of extensive coal- seams near the sho'-es of Giand Lake. Gypsum, marbles, roofing -slate, and buil'iing-stune are abundant in several localities. Fisheries. The cod -fishery of Newfoundland is the most extensive of the kind in the world, and its average annual value (about $6,000,000) amounts to three-fourths of the entire fishery products. The export of dried cod per annum averages 1,250,(00 (juintals or cwts. The seal-fishery is next in value. The number of seals taken in recent years varies from 250,000 to 365,000, the average value being $750,000. The value of canned lobsters exported annually is about $380,000. The centre.^ of the herring fishery are Labrador, St. George''a Bay, Fortune Bay, Plac6ntia Bay. and the Bay of Itlandt. The value of the salmon-fishery is about $ 100,000 Climate. NEWFOUNDLAND. 18. Route. 101 per annum. The numher o*^ persons engaged in catching and curing fish is about 55,(XX). The richcN of the encompassing seas are seemingly inex- liaustible. At a day's sail from the E. shore are the Great Banks (p. 109), 600 M. long, with their swarming fish-life, while the whole Atlantic coast of Labrador , 1100 M. in length, is under the jurisdiction of Newfound- land and us a fishing-ground is of incalculable value. Imports, Exports, and Revenue. In 1891 the total Aalue of the ex- ports was 5 7,437.158; of the imports $6,869,458. The revenue for the same year was $1.820,2C'6, and the public debt $5,223,361 Climate. The climate of Newfoundland, being insular, is variable and subject to sudden changes. The intense summer heats of the United States and Canada and the fierce colds of their winters are alike unknown. It is but rarely, and then only for a few hours, that the thermometer sinks below zero (Fahr.) in winter; and in summer it is bat seldom that 80° are reached. That the climate is salubrious is evidenced by the ro- bust healthy appearance of the people, and the great age to which num- bers of them live. The Arctic current, washing the K. shores, shortens the summer. Fogs are confined to the Great Banks and to the S. and S.E. shores. The weather in W. Newfoundland is very fine and the vegetation generally a month ia advance of that on the E. coast. The summer, though short, is generally delightful. The heat is never oppressive, the nightti are cool ; days bright and balmy often succeed each other for weeks together. Those who wish to escape from the relaxing and op- pressive heats of the continent will find an agreeable refuge here. September and October are generally pleasant months, ir which the sportsman can enjoy himself in pursuit of ptarmigan, snipe, curlew, etc. Tornadoes and cyclones are imknown, and thunder-storms are rare. Usually the autumn is prolonged into November, and the snow seldom covers the ground permanently till near Christmas. Population. According to the census of 1891, the population is 202,040. In this are included 4000 white residents in Labrador and 1400 Eskimo. The people are entirely derived from Saxon and Celtic stocks. The representatives of the former number 129,454, of the latter 72,696. They are a vigorous, hardy, energetic people. The great bulk of them lead a heabhy open-air life , engaged in the fisheries. They are kindly, simple in their manners, quick and intelligent, law-abiding, and noted for their friendliness towards strangers. Their fishing-settlements, villages, ard hamlets are sprinkled all around the shores, often in the most curious and picturesque s^ituations among the clefts of the rocks. Their fishing-stages and 'flakes" for drying codtish constitute a special feature at all the fishing-centres. — The Beothiks or Beoth'ikt, ihe abo- rigines of Newfoundland, were a branch of the Algonquin race "(comp. pp. xlvi, xlvii). Though once numerous and powerful, they have gradu- ally disappeared before the advance of the white man, and no living Beothik has been seen since 1823 (comp. p. 107). History. Newfoundland was discovered by John Cabot in 1497. There is little doubt, however, that it had been known 500 years previously to the Norsemen, who named it Helluland ^ or the 'land of naked rocks'. When Cabot made his discovery he was in the service of Henry VII. of England, from whom he had obtained a patent authorizing his search for new lands; and his ship was manned by Englishmen. He was the first discoverer of the continent of North America. Thus by right of discov- ery , Newfoundland belonged to England:^ but it was not formally taken possession of till 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert ^ half-brother to Sir Walter Raleigh, landed on its shores. Gilbert was authorized by letters patent from Queen Elizabeth to colonize the island and exercise juris- diction over all the neighbouring lands within 200 leagues in every di- rectic. He was, however, lost at sea on his return voyage, so that noth- ing came of this attempt at colonization. Soon after Cabot's di-scovery , the news of the abundance of fish in Newfoundland waters reached the French fishermen of Normandy and Brittany, and these hardy mariners were soon busily employed in taking cod on the Great Banks and near the shore. They were speedily followed 102 Route IS. NEWFOUNDLAND. History. by the Bi.sque fishermen, who gave the name of Baccalaos ('cod-lands'") to Newfoundland and the neighbouring coasts. Portuguese and Spanish fishing-vessels arrived not long after to share in the same profitable industry. In 1578 no fewer than 400 tishing-vessels were employed, of which 15C were French and only 50 Kuglish — so slow were the latter in recognizing the value of these fishing-grounds. Thor^ih late in com- mencing, however, the English speedily gained on their rivals. In 1600 there were '2(HJ English vessels at work, which employed 10.000 men and boys, as catchers on board and curers on shore; and the Newfoundland fisheries became the stay and .support of the W. counties of England, being worth 100,000 /. annually — an immense sum in those days. Thus the at- traction which first led Englishmen to these W. seas and first induced them to col jnize the new lands was the immense fish-wealth in the waters around Newfoundland. The same impulse brought the French to the St. Lawrence and led to the long struggle between the two nations. The fisheries laid the foundation of the empire won by England in the New World. After the days of Cabot, various attempts were made to colonize the island, but none proved successful. The most conspicuous of the attempts were made by Sir George Calvert^ afterwards Lord Baltimore, and at a later date by Sir David Kirke in 1638. Previously, however, in 1615, Captain Richard Whitbourne , mariner, of Exmouth, Devonshire, was sent out by the British Admiralty to regulate matters among the fishing pop- ulation, which had greatly increased. He wrote the first book on Newfound- land ("Westward Ho I for Avalon'). which is now rare and valuable. In carrying out their plans for founding an empire in the New World, the French statesmen were eager to obtain possession of Newfoundland. They knew that holding it. they could control the fisheries and also command the narrow entrance to the St. Lawrence and their possessions in Canada. They obtained a footing, at length, on the S. shore and founded Placentia (see p. 114). During the long wars between the two nations, the French sent out several expeditions for the conquest of the island, bxit without success. Their presence and encroachments, however, were a constant source of loss and annoyance to the settlers. At length the Treaty of Utrecht (1713) ended the struggle. By one of the articles of that treaty France agreed to surrender all her possessions in Newfoundland and to evacuate Placentia. The sovereignty of the whole island was thus secured to England, and the French renounced all terri- torial rights. Unfortunately, however, the treaty gave them certain privi- leges that led to a long series of disputes which are not settled to this day (see p. 104). Meantime, however, the hardy industrious fishermen were forming settlements around the shores of the island, increasing in num- bers and trying to make homes for themselves. But the difficulties they had to contend with in doing so were of a very formidable character. The fisheries had all along been carried on by merchants, ship-owners, and traders, who resided in the W. of England. For their own prclt and ad- vantage they wished to establish a monopoly and to retain the harbours and shores for their own servants , whom they sent out to carry on the fishery each summer and to return before winter. Hence their aim was to prevent settlement, the building of houses, and the cultivation of the soil. Being wealthy and influential men, they had the ear of successive English governments, whom they induced to pass laws to enable these 'Slerchant Adventurers', as they were called, to accomplish the end they had in view. They were successful, too, in misleading the nation by false statements about the barrenness of the soil and the necessity of preserving the fisheries as a nursery of seamen for the Royal Navy. Hence laws were passed prohibiting masters of vessels from carrying out any settlers, and binding them to bring back at the close of each fishing-sea- son the fishermen who went out in spring. When it was found that settle- ment went on in spite of these restrictions, an order was issued to burn down all the houses — an edict which the humanity of the English Com- missioner happUy made him hesitate to put in execution and which, on strong remonstrances to the King, was revoked. The tyrannical rule of the merchants continued for over a century and a half. Their servants, Constitution. NEWFOUNDLAND. 18. Route. 103 the 'Fishery Admirals" as they were called, long oppressed and robbed the people, taking possession of the best fishing-grounds and driving the in- habitants from their own fields and gardens. At length a better day dawned. England found out her mistake and the deception that had been practised on her. The country ceased to be a mere lishing-station and was at last recognized a.^ a colony of the British Empire. A governor was appointed in 1729, when the resident population was 6000. Some sem- blance of civil government was gradually introduced. Improvements came very slowly. In 1750 a court for the trial of criminal cases was established. Till then all criminals had been sent to Kn;j:land for trial. It was not till 1793 that a Supreme Court for the whole island was appointed . with power to try all offenders and determine suits of a civil nature ; and its jurisdiction, moreover, was not completely established till 182B. It was not till 1820 that houses could be erected without the written permission of the governor or that grants of land could be made. No other British colony was ever dealt with so harshly. Not without reason did Lord .Sal- isbury recently describe the colony as having been throughout its career 'the sport of historic misfortunes'. The French, on the one sifle, holding half the island, and the settlement of the country, on the other, being prohibited by law for 150 years, were enough to prevent all advance. Still, the sturdy fishermen held their ground, contended for their liber- ties, and continued to increase in numbers. In 1763 the population num- bered 13,000, in 1804 it reached 20,00 •. An agitation fur a local govern- ment commenced, and in 1S32 'representative government' was granted. The first local Legislature was opened in 1833. In 1854 the privilege of self- government was completed by the concession of 'responsible government'. The progress of the colony during the last fifty years has been steady and substantial. Civilizing influences have been at work. An educatifnal system has been established and, of late, considerably improved. Agri- culture has been encouraged, and manufactures of various kinds com- menced. In 1858 the first Atlantic cable was landed on the shore of Tri- nity Bay (p. 112). In 1884 the first railway from St. .John's to Harbour Grace was opened (p. 114). In 1893 a contract was entered into for the extension of the line across the island to Bay of Islands and St. George's Bay, having its W. terminus at Port-au-Basque, 70 M. from Cape Breton. Relation to Canada. Judging by the geographical position of the is- land, it wovild seem that by 'manifest destiny' it belongs to the Dominion of Canada, and should long since have become a member of that great confederacy of British provinces. The bulk of its people, however, seem to think ditferently, and have hitherto declined to iinite with Canada. An attempt was made in 1869 to bring about a union, but proved to be a signal failure. Since that date Confederation has not been made a polit- ical issue. Of late years, however, there has been among the people a growing sentiment in favour of union with the Dominion, and those best able to make a forecast consider that the hour is at hand when 'Britain's Oldest Colony' will throw in its fortunes with those of Canada. To both countries such a consummation seems natural and - esirable. The senti- ment of loyalty to the flag of England is strong, anu no proposal of an- nexation to the United States has ever yet taken shape. The position of the island, as holding the key of the St. Lawrence, and thus being essen- tial to the rounding off of the Dominion, as well as to its safety, precludes the idea that it would ever be allowed to pass from under the flag of England. Constitution. The form of government which now regulates the afFairs of the Colony, and which is working on the whole satisfactorily, is that known as 'Responsible Government'. It consists of a Governor, who is nominated by the Crown, his salary of $ 12,00<3 a year ])cing paid by the Colony; an Executive Council, chosen by the party commanding a majority in the Legislature, and consisting of seven members, the Governor being President or Chairman; a Legislative Council of fifteen members, nominat- ed by the Governor in Council ; and a House of Assembly, at present con- sisting of 86 members, elected every four years by the votes of the people. There are 18 electoral districts. The members of the House of Assembly 104 Route W. NEWFOUNDLAND. are elected by ballot. All males on reaching the age of tw3nty-one are entitled to vote. The members of both branches of the Legislature are paid. The Legislature meets once a year. Acts become law after passing both chambers and receiving the assent of the Governor. The French Treaty Rights in Newfeundland. The sovereignty of the island, as has been stated, belongs wholly to Great Britain, but, in virtue of certain ancient treaties, the French have the privilege of taking and drying fish on that portion of the coast which extends from Cape Rau, round the W. and N., to Cape St. John on the K.E. shore. They have no right to occupy permanently, or to settle on any portion of the coast, or to erect any buildings, except such huts and scatlulds as may be ne- cessary for drying their lish. French fishermen are not permitted to winter on the island. The treaties in which these concessions were made to the French are those of Utrecht (1713j, Paris (1763j, Versailles (1783), and the second treaty of Paris (1815). A serious difference of opinion has existed for more than a century between England and France as to the proper interpretation of these treaties, the language of which is often obscure. The French contend that the treaties give them the exclush'e right to the fisheries, and also to the use of the shore, so that British subjects cannot lawfully fish within those limits, or occupy the land for any purpose. Were this contention well founded, it would entirely close up the best half of Newfoundland against its use by British subjects, in order that along a coast 450 M. in length a few French lishermen might, during three or four months of the year, catch and dry codtish. Such a dog-in-the- manger policy would prevent either party from cultivating the land, or carrying on mining or lumbering operations. England and her subjects in the colony have always repudiated this interpretation and maintained that they huve a concurrent right of lishing wherever they do not interfere with the operations of French fishermen; and also that they have aright to st-ttle on the land and develop its resources. In point of fact, over 11,000 British subjects are now settled on the Treaty Shore. Custom-houses have been erected, magistrates appointed, and law-courts established on this coast; and two members elected by the inhabitants represent them in the local legislature. This, of course, adds considerably to the complic- ations of this vexed question. Meantime , the French stubbornly insist on their rights, and constunt complaints arise regarding their interference with the residents. It is a most undesirable condition of things, and one that constantly imperils the peace of the two nations. The French refuse to submit the interpretation of the treaties to arbitration, and all attempts at an arrangement of these difficulties have hitherto proved abortive. The colonists are naturally restive under these grievances, and vexatious quar- rels with the French are constantly cropping up. What Newfoundland asks — and it seems nut unreasonable — is that Great Britain, who entered into these treaty engagements which have beconae antiquated and unsuited to the present day, should free her oldest colony from this ruinous in- cubus and in some way — by exchange of territory or purchase — wipe out these French claims and give the colony the control of its own territory. Sport. The chief objects of the chase in Newfoundland are the Cari- bou (Rangi/er Tarandus) and the Partridge or Willow Grouse {Lagopus alius). The season for the former lasts from Sept. 15th to Feb. 15th, that for the latter from Sept. 15th to Jan. 12th. No Moose or Elk may be shot before 189a. Owing to the wanton slaughter of caribou by strangers in past years , a law has been passed forbidding non-residents of the Colony to shoot these animals without a license, the fee for which is $100 (penalty for violation of this law $4C0). Not more than five stags and three does may be killed by one sportsman in the same season. Money. The monetary system of Newfoundland is similar to that of Canada, and Canadian coins pass at full value (see p. xiii). British gold and silver coins pass current at the rate of i /. = $4.80, while U. S. gold coins are taken at or a little below their face value ($ 10 = $ 9.85). Postal Information. The letter rate of postage within Newfoandland and to Canada is 3 c. per oz. ; to Great Britain and other countries of the Postal Union 5c. per V2OZ.5 letters for delivery within the city 1 c. per oz. ST. JOHN'S. 18. Route. 105 Parcels to Canada cost 15c. per lb., to the United Kingdom 18c. for the lirst lb. and I'ic. for each additional lb. The other regulations are similar to those of Canada (p. xxii). — The Telegraph Rate from St. Johns to places in Newfoundland varies from 25 c. for 10 words and 2c. for each additional word to 50c. per ten words and 4c. per additional word. The rate to the nearest parts of Canada and the United States are S l-l'A P*^^ ^^ words and 9-11 c. for each additional word. To Great Britain the rate is 25 c. per word. Bibliography. The best and most comprehensive general account of Newfoundland is given in 'Newfoundland; the Oldest British Colony', by Joseph Hatton and Rev. Motet Hnrvey (1883). See also M. Harveift 'Text Book of Newfoundland History' (181)0). The reports of the Ntwfoundlund Qeological Survey and the official 'Year Book and Almanac of Newfound- land' will also be found useful. Among other works that may be men- tioned are the histories of Reeves (1793), Ampuch (1826), and Pedleu (1863), and Prof. J. B. Jukes'' -Excursions in and about Newfoundland' (18i2). a. St. John's. Tlie approai'li to St. John's t by sea excites the admiration of even the most blase traveller. As the steamer skirts the iron-bound coast, it suddenly turns towards the shore and appears as if about to dash itself against the rocks. Presently, however, a narrow opening ap- pears in the wall, and as the vessel glides through this, we see above us huge cliffs of dark-red sandstone piled in broKen masses on a foundation of gray slate rock. On the right towers an almost per- pendicular precipice, 300 ft. high, above which rises the crest of Signal Hill (520 ft.}, with the station for signalling vessels as they approach the harbour. On the left the rugged hill attains a height of 600 ft., and from its base juts out a rocky promontory bearing the Fori Amherst Lighthouse. The *Narrows, or channel leading to the harbour, is ^2^^* long, and at the narrowest point, between Pancafee and Chair Rocks — across which in olden days a chain could be drawn to shut out hostile cruisers — it is only 600 ft. wide. It is not till near the end of the Narrows that the city becomes visible. Beyond the channel the harbour trends suddenly to the W., so that it is com- pletely land-locked and safely sheltered from the waves of the At- lantic. Vessels of the largest tonnage can enter at all periods of the tide, the rise of which does not exceed 4 ft. The harbour is fully 1 M. long and nearly 1/2 M- wide. St. John's. — Arrival. Custom- House 0/jicers ineei tlni steamer to ex- amine and pass the passengers' luggage. — Cabs also meet the steamers (fare to hotel, incl. ordinary luggage, 40-50c.). Hotels. New Atlantic Hotel, rebuilding since the fire of 1892, $ iVa- 2V2; Tremont House, Central. Citt, unpretending, 31-172. — Board and Private Lodgings can be easily obtained. Gabs: S0-50c. per drive within the city; 80c. per hr.; $4 per day. — Mail- Waggons run to Portugal Cove., Petty Harbour., Femjland., Torbay., etc. — Steamers ply to various points on the Newfoundland coast (comp. pp. 110, 111), to Labrador (see p. Ill), to Halifax (see p. 9^), to Montreal (see p. 9*^), to New York (see p. 99), to Liverpool (see p. 99), and other ports. t This is the recognised official spelling, though the weight of the older authorities is in favour of St. John* (without the apostrophe), follow- ing the analogy of St. Ivea, St. Kitts, and similar names. 106 Route 18. ST. JOHN'S. Newfoundland. Post Office, in the Market House, Water St. (open 8-7.30). — Telegraph Office, in the Post Offlce, till the new bnildinK is ready (open8.30 a.m. to 9 p.m.). Banks. Union; Commercial; Savings Bank (open iO-3). — Three daily evening papers are published: the Herald^ Telegram^ and Tribune (Ic. each). Consuls. United States, T. N. Molloy ; Germany, R. JJ. Prowu; Italy, W. J. Fisher. St. John's, the capital of Newfoundland, is situated on the E. side of the peninsula of Avalon (p. 99), in AT^^''d" N. lat. and 52« 45' 10" W. Ion. , 60 M. to the N. of Cupe Race (p. 109), 600 M. from Halifax, 1070 M. from Montreal. 1*200 M. from New York, and 1700 M. from Queenstowu (about 1000 M. nearer than New York). The ground on which it lies rises from the N. side of the harbour, and in picturesqueness of site it is unexcelled by any city on the American continent. The three chief streets, of which Water Street Is the most important , run parallel with the harbour. On the S. side of the harbour the hill springs so abruptly from the water's edge as to leave room only for a few warehouses and oil-factories. The shops and houses of Water Street are of brick or stone, but in other parts of the city most of the buildings are of wood, presenting a very dingy and unattractive aspect. The population of St. John's in 1891 was 29,007, or nearly one-sixth of the entire population of the island. The Roman Catholics numbered 16,690, the Protestants 12,417. St. John's, founded about 1580. gradually grew from a hamlet of fishermen's huts, clustering round the harbour, to a town stretching up the slope to the N. and along its crest. By 1836 its population was 15,000. In 1846 P great fire destroyed about two-thirds of the city, which was rebuilt on a much improved plan. On July 8th, 1892, St. John's was visited by another terrible conflagration , which swept away fully half the city, including such substantial buildings as the Church of England Cathedral, St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church, and the massive warehouses of Water St. About 11,000 persons were left homeless , and property to the value of $ 12-16,U00,0(X) was destroyed. This terrible calamity awoke a lively sympathy in other lands, and contributions poured in from Canada, England, and the United States. The people of St. John's have set themselves with great energy to the task of re-erecting their burned city, and probably by the time this sees the light nearly all traces of the fire will have been removed and St. John's rebuilt in an improved manner. The chief business interests of St. John's are, of coarse, its fisheries and its seal-oil refineries , but of recent years it has made fair progress in manufactures, and it now contains iron foundries, machine shops, shoe, furniture, tobacco, and soap factories, breweries, tanneries, and a large and well-equipped rope-walk. The most conspicuous building in St. John's Is the *Boman Catholic Cathedral (St. John the Baptist), which occupies a com- manding site on the summit of the hill on which the city is built. It is in the form of a Latin cross, 2B7 ft. long and 180 ft. wide across the transepts, with two towers, 138 ft. in height. It is richly or- namented with statuary and paintings and presents an impressive appearance. Adjacent to it are the Bishop's Palace, St. Bonaven- ture College, and a Convent, the whole group of buildings having cost about $500,000. — The *Churcli of England Cathedral, about halfway up the slope, will, when completed, be one of the finest "ecclesiastical edifices in British America. It was designed by Sir Newfoundland. ST. JOHN'S. 18. Route. 107 Gilbert Scott in an Early English style, and is also dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Unfortunately it was greatly injured in the great Are of 1892, but it is now in course of restoration. On the Military Road, runnin°; alonir the crest of the ridge, stands the Colonial Building or House of Parliament, containing chambers for the two branches of the Legislature, and most of the Government offices. It is 110 ft. long and 85 ft. wide, and was built in 1847 at a cost of 100,000f. Its Ionic portico is borne by six massive columns, 30 ft. high. — To the E. of it is Government House, a plain, substantial, and comfortable residence, erected by the Imperial Government in 1828, at a cost of 8O,000f. It is sur- rounded by well-kept grounds. The Post Office, near the middle of Water St. (see above), is a very creditable building, completed in 1887. The upper portion is devoted to the purposes of a ^Public Museum. The museum, which is well worthy of a visit, contains interesting relics of the Beot/iiks , the extinct aboriginal inhabitants of Newfound- land (comp. p. 101); stuffed specimens of tlip, caribou, bears, seals, birds, and fishes of the island; and a collection illustrative of its mineral wealth and geological formation. At the E. end of Water St. stands the Custom;, House, now- being rebuilt after the fire of 1892. — Near the Union Bank stood the Athenaeum , a handsome building which was unfortunately destroyed by the fire of 1892 but will probably soon be restored. Its library and reading-room have found temporary quarters in Duckworth St. (open to strangers on introduction by a member). The Penitentiarij^ a solid granite building, and the Hospital are on the outskirts of the city. The large Fish Stores, in Water St., and the Oil Factories, on the S. side of the harbour, will well repay an examination. The Dry Dock, at the head of the harbour, built, of wood, in 1884, at a cost of $550,000, is 600 ft. long and 130 ft. wide, with a depth of 25 ft. on its sill at low water. It is thus able to accommo- date all but the very largest ocean steamers afloat. Walks and Drives in the Neighbourhood of St. John's. 1. Signal Hill. The top of ""Signal Hill (520 ft), overlooking ths Narrows (comp. p. 105), is reached in a walk of 1/2 hr., or by a carriage drive. At the height of 350 ft. two small and deep lakes are passed. On a clear day the *View from the summit is very fine. On the one side is the broad Atlantic. Looking to the N. we see Sugar Loaf, Red Head (700 ft.), Logie\Bay, Torbay Head, and the serrated range of hills on the S. side of Conception Bay. The dark perpendicular sea-wall, with numer- ous indentations, runs up to Ciipe Si. Francis. A fine sweep of country, dotted with numerous glittering lakelets and farm-houses and fringed with sombre groves of flr, stretches away to the N. W. The great chasm which forms the entrance to the harbour is seen below, guarded by precipitous rock-masses. The remains of the batteries which once commanded the narrow entrance are visible on their rocky platforms. Fort Amhevst and Cape Spear Lighthouses and Fresh Water Bay, with its fisherman's cottages, are seen to the S. A bird's-eye-view is presented of the harbour, with 108 Route 18. TORBAY. Newfoundland. the whole city lying along the N. slope and crowned by tlie Roman Cath- olic cathedral. A lower peak called Oallowx Hill stands out prominently. Here in the olden time criminals were executed in 8iy[ht of the whole city. — In 1762 Signal Hill was the scene of a brief but bloody struggle. For the third time the French had then got possession of St. John's. Lord Colvillo was sent from Halifax with a squadron to drive them out. Colonel Amher.et landed a force from the fleet at Torbay and marched overland to St. John's. Up the rugged heights from Quidi Vidi (see below) the Eng- lish soldiers charged to capture Signal Hill, the key of the position. The French fought desperately, and having a great advantage from their position succeeded several times in repulsing their foes. At length a company of Highlanders with fixed bayonets dashed up the heights and swept all before them. Signal Hill being won, the French saw that all was lost, and their lleet crept out of the harbour in a fog and escaped. St. John's never again fell into the hands of the French. — The red .«andstone which caps the hill belongs to the Huronian system of rocks, corresponding to the English Cambrian, which is developed all over the peninsula of Avalon. The hill itself is strewed with large boulders holding jasper and other water-worn pebbles, showing that they once formed the margin of an old Silu.'ian sea and that by foldings and various earth- movements the sea-bottom has become a hill 520 feet above the level of the water. Here, too, are seen striations on the rock-surfaces showing that at a later period they were under glacier action. Geologists tell ns that the whole island was once in the same condition in which Greenland now is — under a great ice-cap many hundreds of feet in thickness. 2. Quidi Vidi. Close to St. John's lies the pretty *Q,uidi Vidi Lake, V2 M. in length, on which an annual regatta is held. The village of Quidi Vidi is a typical fishing-village, where can be seen in perfection the stages projecting over the water of the little harbour, at which the Jishermen land their fish, and the 'Hakes' on which the cod are dried. During the fishing- season the whole process of ''splitting', 'heading', and "salting' can be seen. The small harbour is connected with the ocean by a narrow gut, only deep enough for fiahing-boats. All around rise steep red cliffs in fantastic shapes. These, with the fishing-boats, stages, and flakes, make a strikingly characteristic picture. Artists find this the most attractive spot about the city. A little river flowing through the lake forms a pretty cascade as it tumbles over the rocks into the harbonr. Visitors will enjoy a chat with the sturdy fishermen and their wives. Their insular peculiarities, linguistic oddities, and quaint views of things form an interesting study. 3. LoGiE Bay and Torbat. The road runs to the N. to (2 M.) Virginia Water, a pretty little lake embosomed in woods, and (4 M.) Logie Bay, with its striking coast scenery. Outer and Middle Coves, 2 M. farther on, are scarcely less remarkable. The thriving village of Torbay, 8 M. from St. John's, is one of the most picturesque spots on the coast, with a handsome Roman Catholic church, a convent, excellent school-houses, and a large public hall. Along this K. coast there are no pebbly beaches on which the waves gently break, but the massive grandeur of perpendicular cliflTs, often sculptured into forms of stern beauty. 4. PoRTDGAL Cove, 9 31. The road winds towards the N., along the shore of Windsor Lake^ which supplies the city with water, and then through a little valley of rare beauty with a brook flowing at the foot of its encompassing rocks. At the end of the valley the bright waters of 'Conception Bay, with Belle Isle (6 M. long), come into view. On the S. shore of the bay lies the lishing-village of ''Portugal Cove, perched amid the clefts of the rocks, a little waterfall tumbling over the cliffs into the sea. Cortereal discovered this bay in 1501 and named the roadstead after his country. The return to St. John's may be made via Broad Cove and the Thorbum Road (a charming drive). — Good trout-fishing may be ob- tained in ponds along all of the above routes. Newfoundland. PETTY HARBOUR. 18. Route. 109 b. From St. Johr's to Benews. Cape Eace. 64 M. A BIail Waggon plies twice a week from St. John's to Renetcs (see below) in 24 hrs. (fare $4), b.ut visitors will find it much men! comfortahle to hire a carriage (fare about $4 a day). The road is good and the views are often superb. The hotel-accommodation is , however, very primitive, and it is advisable to start with a well-fllied luncheon- basket. The 'Barrens' along this route are famous for their 'partridge' (willow grouse) shooting, the season for which begins on Sept. 15th. The first part of the road is excellent and affords many beautiful views. 4 M. Blackhead, a village near Cape Spear, the easternmost point of N. America (comp. p. 99). 9 M. Petty Harbour, a village with about 1000 iuhab., situat- ed at the mouth of a deep ravine through which flows a clear stream into the snug little harbour, fringed with fish-flakes and shut in by towering precipices. About 372 M. to the S. of Petty Harbour ii 'T/ie Spotif — a funnel- shaped opening from above into a cavern which the sea has scooped out. In stormy weather, the sea, rushing into the cavern, hurls the spray and foam aloft through the opening, presenting a curious sight, visible at times for miles around. Beyond Petty Harbour the road runs alonir the so-called 'Straight Shore of Avalon' to (20 M.) Bay of Bulls (a corruption of the French Baie de Bois). Mobile (24 M.), and (39 M. ) Cape Broyle. 44 M. Ferryland, a little town with 550 inhab., was founded in 1624 by Sir George Calvert, afterwards Lord Baltimore, who built a fort and a fine mansion in wliich he resided for many years witii his family. Here, too, Sir David Kirke took up his residence in 1638, armed witli the powers of a Count Palatine over the whole island, 51 M. Fermeuse, a village of 640 inhab., with its deep and safe harbour ; 54 M. Renews (540 inhab.). Cape Bace, the S. E. point of the island, where many a gallant ship has met her doom, lies about 10 M. to the S. of Renews, irom which it may be reached by boat or steamer (no road ; comp. p. 110). Round its grim rocks swift conflicting currents circle; dark fogs brood here in summer for weeks together, so that the navigator has to shape his course mainly by the soundings. In recent years the dangers to navigation have been greatly lessened by the erection of a powerful fog- whistle on the Cape. Its lighthouse is 180 ft. above the sea-level and can be seen at a distance of 20 M. About 5() 31. to the E, of Cape Race are the Great Banks of Newfound- land, famous for their cod-fisheries. They are about 600 M. long ami 2'X) M. wide, while the depth of water upon them ranges from 10 to IGO fathoms, with an average of 40 fathoms. Marine life of all kinds is abund- ant on the Banks, and cod and other lish resort to them in immense numbers. The vessels frequenting the Grand Banks are known as 'liankers', and are larger and better fitted out than those of the coast-flaheries. The fishermen on the Banks, who, it is estimated, number 100,000, are of various nations and ply their hard labours shrouded in dense fogs and often in dangerous proximity to icebergs. 1 1 Route 18. PLACENTTA BAY. Xew found [and. c. From St. Jolin's to Bonne Bay by Sea. 651 M. Mail Steamer 'Gkanu Lake' of the Newfoundland Coastal Co. every alternate Sat., reaching Bcnne Baij in 5-6 days (ffire $ lo). Ttie round trip takes about 10 days, and those who prefer may land at one of the 24 intermediate ports and spend a few days in fishing , sketching, or photographing. This, the so-called Weitern Route, and the following, or Northern lionte, will meet the wishes of tho.-e who desire to make the round of the island. The vessels are strongly huiit and well officered; the food and accommodation are fair. The steamer makes its first call at (33 M.) Ferryland (p. 109), then rounds Cape Race (p. 109 ), eiiters the fine harbour of (75 M.) Trepassey (684 inhab. 5 the landing-place for Cape Race), and passes St. ShotVs , the scene of many shipwrecks. We then skirt Cape Pine and ascend St. Mary's Bay, '25 M. wide and 35 M. deep, the first of the great bays which indent tliis coast. The village of St. Mary's, on its E. shore, with 500 inhab., is largely engaged in fishing and has a farming district around it. Leaving St. Mary's I'ay, we steer round Cape St. Mary and enter *Placentia Bay, the largest bay of Newfoundland, with a length of 90 M. and a width (at its mouth) of 55 M. It contains several clusters of islands, one of which, Great Merasheen, is 21 M. long. The scenery of the bay is very fine. The steamer makes five calls in the bay — at (140 M.) Oreat Placentin (see p. 114), Gerat St. Law- rence (7*20 inhab.) , Lamnlinc (650 inhab.), Grand Bank (1170 inhab.), and (190 M.) Burin. The last-named, with 2729 inhab.. is a busy and prosperous place, with a land-locked harbour, exten- sive fisheries, and a large trade with St. Pierre (p. 116). Leaving Burin, we round the end of the peninsula of that name, between Placentia Bay and Fortune Bay. To the left, as we approach the entrance of the latter, lie the French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon (see R. 19). — Fortune Bay, 65 M. long and 35 M. wide, is noted for its extensive herring fishery and is much frequented by American fishing-vessels. It is the centre of the bait-carrying traffic with St. Pierre. The ports called at within the bay are (260 M.) Fortune, Balleoram, St. Jacques, (283 M.) Harbour Briton (484 in- hab.), and (308 M.) Great Jervois. A little farther to the W. the steamer enters ^Hermitage Cove and ^Baie d'£«po«> ( corrupted into Bay Despair), the scenery of which is pronounced by many travellers the finest in the island. From this p iit to Cape Ray extends a straight line of coast, 150 M. in length, indented by numerous small inlets and fringed with islands. Among the latter are the Penguin Islands (seen to the left) and the Burgee Islands, on the largest of which Capt. Cook observed an eclipse of the sun in 1765. — 370 M. Burgeo, a village with 894 inhab., on one of the Burgeo Islands, is one of the most important and picturesque places on the S. coast. In few places can he seen more romantic villages than Burin, Harbour JJriton, Burgeo, and Kose Blanche (see p. 111). The etTect of the pond-like Neu'foim'Uand. BAY OF ST. OEOUGE. 18. Route. 1 1 1 harbours, surrouinlnl liy rngeed hills, is enhanced by the haphazard way in which the cottages are dotted down among the rocks, wherever a foot- hold can be obtained. The whole coast id a paradi.se for artists. 405 M. La Poile ( 50 iiihab.) , the next point stopped at , lies at the head of one of the cliief inlets of tliis coast. — 419 M. Rose Blanche is a liiglily picturesque little viUage on anotlier small bay. 446 M. Fort-au-Basque or Channel, with about lOOU inhab., has a splendid harbour, open all the year round, and is destined to be a place of considerabl' importance as the terminus of the transiu- sular railway now under construction (s'jv p. 115). Rounding Cape Ray, the H.W. point of Newfoundland (p. 99), the steamer now turns to the N. and passe.<» along what is popularly known as the French Shore (p. 104). Opposite Cape Kay, on the Cape Breton shore, is Cape North^ the two capes guarding the en- trance of the Gulf of St. Lawrenc". From Cape Ray to Cape Anguille the <"oast is sitigularly rugged and inhospitable in appearance. The (iredt and Little Codroy Rivers enter the sea between these two points after How ing through a IVrtile valley 40M.in length. The coast is backed here by the Long Range (p. 100), extending with inter- ruptions nearly to the N. extremity uf the island. The fine *Bay of St. George (6G00 inhab. ) is now entered. Its fertile shores are rich in minerals, c>oal-beds, and forests. One day it will be the garden of the colony. The steamer calls at (516 M. ) Sandy Point and then rounds the peninsula of Port-a-Port, noted for its lead deposits. It is a paradise of geologists, who have chiselled from its rocks some of the most gigantic Cephalopoda 'n existence. The (610 M.) *Bay of Islands (1500 inhab. ), with its magni- ficent scenery, now opens to the right. Its three arms nm 20 M. inland, one of them receiving the Number River ^ the second largest river in the island. As its name indicates, it has numerous islands. The Hum])er is noted for its beautiful scenery, the marble beds along its banks, anil its pine forests, many of them now cut down. 661 M. *Bonne Bay, the terminus of our voyage, lies about 40 M. to the N. of the Bay of Islands, and its scenery is considered by some even finer. It has two long arms communicating with lakes at some distan gates, the (10 min.) plain old wooden building of Kings College, with its Ionic portico. This college was chartered by George III. in 1788 and is now attended by 40-50 stu- dents. A good *View is here obtained of the town and its rivers. Close by are the Collegiate Scfiool , for boys , and Edgehill , a church-school for girls (75-100 pupils). — Other good points of view are the cupola of the Coiiri Souse, a conspicuous red building on an adjoining hill, and the grassy ramparts of the abandoned i^ori/i't/warrf (1759). just above the station. Windsor , the Indian name of which was Pisiquid ('junction of the waters') was a thriving Acadian settlement before the expulsion of 1755 (see p. 119). Steamers run from Windsor to Pavrsboro (p. 72), St. John (p. 124), etc. The railway runs through Windsor on the street -level and in quitting it crosses the wide Avon by an iron bridge 1400 ft. long. To the right is the road-bridge. The beauty of the view here depends largely on the state of the tide. At full tide we see a large and powerful river, with waters of a strange reddish hue; at low tide there is little but slimy expanses of red mud — 'an ugly rent in the land' — recalling, though on a larger scale, the similar ef- fects on the English Avon, at Bristol. We now leave the Avon for a little, but regain it near ( 53 M.) Hantsport^ a small but busy little ship-building port. Its shipping is owned almost entirely by the Messrs. Churchill , the wealthiest and largest ship - owners in the Dominion. We now skirt the wide estuary of the Avon, enjoying tine views, on our right front, over the Minas Basin. As we near (58 M.) Avonport, the bold Cape Blomidon (see p. 120) comes into prominence on the W. side of the basin, forming the dominant scenic feature for the next 10 M. to St. John, WOLFYILLE. 20. Route, 119 We now turn to the left (W.), leave the Avon , and cross the mouth of the Gaspereau at (60 M.) Ilorton Landing. "We then tra- verse the Comwnllia Valley, the begin iiin}; of the so-called ^Garden of Noi'Ci Scotia, with its extensive fruit-or<'hards and fertile past- ures. We have also reached the 'Latid of Evangeline' (see below). At (61 M.) Grand Pre we see, to the riglit , a group of old willows marking the site of Kvangeline's village. 64 M. Wolfville {American Ho., Royal, Wolfcille, Village Ho., Hairthom Cottage, all second-rate, $ 1 1/2^ a small town with about 2000 inhab. , engaged in ship-building and farming, is the best centre from whi<'h to visit the 'Evangiliue Distri(;t , though it still lacks a comfortable hotel. It is the seat of Acadia College, a flour- ishing Baptist institution (60 students), situated on a hill at the W. end of the village. The *View from its front-steps (or, still better, from its belfry) includes the Cornwallis Valley, backed by the North Mt. (p. 121), ending in Cape Blomidon, the Minas Basin (p. 72), and the meadows of Grand Pre (see below). The village seen to the N., across an arm of Minas Basin, is Kingsport (p. 120). Near the college are Schools for girls and boys and a Manual Training Hall. Evangeline District. The following round-drive of 10-12 >I. will give a very fair idea (jf the district celoliratod by Liin,ifi.llow in 'Kvangeline' (fare for 1-2 pers. a^oiit $'J, 3-4 pars. S3). — We ascfnd to the top of the ridge behind the town and follow the road alonii it towards the E. Behind this rid ire lies the beautiful *C'^-S M. we descend to the left towards the hamlet of Grand Pre, passing the cross-roads supposed to be the site of 'Hasil's Forge'. The site of the French village, close to the station (see above), is marked by a champ of venerable willows, an old well, and the cellars of a few cottages. From this point wo may drive to the N., across the expanse of fertile dyked meadows that gave name to the village ; and the heart of the agriculturalist will rejoice in the splendid crops of hay with which they are covered. To the right, near Hortan Landing (see above), is the point where the Acadians embarked on their expulsion. Ahead of us we obtain fine views of Cape Blomidon (p. I'iO), across the Minas Basin. On the seaward side of the T.reat Meadow' is Long Island, a fertile ridge occupied by near a score of small farms, but no longer an island since the construction of reclaiming dykes. If desired, we can here drive right down to the beach before returning to Grand Pre Station and so back to Wolfville by the lower road. The reader of 'Evangeline'' must be warned that he need not look for 'the forest primeval — the murmuring pines and the hemlocks'. The Expulsion of the Acadi.ns in 1755 was, as already indicated at p. 77, a simple act of self-preservation on the part of the British; and the pathos of Longfellow's poem must not blind us to this fact. 'Whatever judgement,' says Parkman ("Montcalm & Wolfe', chap, viii), 'may be passed on the cruel measure of wholesale expatriation , it was not put in exe- cution till every resource of patience and persuasion had been tried in vain. The agents of the French Court, civil, military, and ecclesiastical, had made some act of force a necessity'. Perhaps the chief culpability of 120 Boute 20. KENTVTLLE. Ffom Halifax Great Britain was in not occupying the provinces in sucU force as to con- vince the Acadians that they had nothinj; more to hope or fear from France. As it veas , the simple-minded peasants were between two fires, and fell victims to French intrigue. The removal of the Grand Pre Acadians was entrusted to Col. Winslow, at the head of a body of Now England troops; and it seems to have been accomplished with all the consideration that the circumstances allowed. Another historic ashotorical 1$^ Natural History Societies, containing many interesting relics and specimens. — To the E., King Square is adjoined by the Old Graveyard (PI. E, 3), now used as a public garden, with many old tombstones and quaint epitaphs. The wide King Street (PI. D-F, 2, 3), with many of the principal shops, banks, and hotels, descends from King Sq. towards the W., crossing Market Square, where carters congregate with their 'slovens' (curious low-hung cart>), and ending at the Market Slip (PI. D, 2), which was the landing-place of the Loyalists (p. 125). — Prince William Street (PL D, E, 2, 3), running to the S. from Market Sq., passes the Bank of Montreal (PL 2 ; D, 2) ; the Post Office (Pl.D. 2), at the corner of Princess St.; the substantial stone building of the City Hall (PL D, 3), opposite the last; the Bank of New Brunsuick (PL3; D,2,3); and the large and handsome Custom House (Pl.D, 3), with its dome and towers (views from roof). The street ends at Reed's Point Wharf (PL D, 3), the landing-place of most of the sea-going steamers. — We may continue our walk from this point along the waters edge to the Military Grounds, with the Exhibi- tion Buildings (PL D, 4). Returning towards the centre of the city via Charlotte Street (PL D, E, 3, 2), we soon reach Queen Square (PL D, 3), surrounded by many handsome homes, including that of the late Lieut. Governor TrinUy Church. ST. JOHN. 22. Route. 127 Boyd (d. 1898 ; N. side) and the effective and well-proportioned res- idence of Mr. Simeon Jones (N.E. angle). On the N. side is the Queen Square Methodist Church, and on the VV\ side are the Bicycle Academy and the rink of St. Andrew's Curling Cluh. — In Charlotte St., far- ther on, to the left, stands the large *Trinity Church (PI. E, 3), the from of which is turned towards Germain St. This handsome building, with its tall steeple, occupies the site of the church built by the Loyalists in 178.'. per drive within the city; U. S. Consular Agent), the capital of N'ew Brunswick, is a very attractive little city of 6502 inhab., pleas- antly situated on the right bank of the St. John, with wide elm- shaded streets, good shops, and many handsome buildings. Its five main streets, running parallel with the river — Queen, King. Brun- swick, George, and Charlotte — were laid out in 1785 and were named by (lovernor Thomas Carleton in honour of the reigning family of Great Britain. The main rnison d'etre of the city is the presence of the Provincial Government Offices , but it also carries on a few manufactures and a large lumber-trade, while it is the distributing point for the surrounding country. It is an important centre for the sportsman ( see p. 134). Fredericton is the seat of a military school and of a company of active militia. The river, here 3 ^ M. wide, is crossed by a railway-bridge (p. 69) and by another, known as the White Bridge, for carriages and foot-passengers. In 1692 Governor Villebon (p. 131) transferred his headquarters from .lemseg to the month of the jS'a.^f'tctxak (p. 134), opposite Fredericton, in «)rder to be nearer hia Malicete allies, and built here a strong fort and stockade , which successi'ully resisted an attack by the New Englanders FREDERICTON. )>3. Route. 133 in 16'.6. In 1G98, however, the ^rarrison waa removed to the' frtrt at the mouth < t tlif river St. John (p, I'Joj, and in HUlt Fort Nasliwaak wa.s destroyed and al>nndoned. The village at St. Anne''t Point. t>n the opposite l»:ink, was founded ahont 1740 by Father Bnnilo., with st)ine 100 followers, and in 1757 it received many Acadian refntiees from Nova Seotia. When the IJritish took possession of New Brunswick t-ee below), the nanu- of Ste. Anne was changed to Frediiicton l>y Governor C;irleton in 1785, and in 17b7 it was made the capital of the province, partly hecauae St. John was considered too open to attack, but chiefly to encourage the settlemtiit of the lands in the centre of the Province. The Province of New Brunswick, of which Fredericton is the capital, is about 2lX) M. long from N. to 8. and I6u M. wide from E. to W. Its area, 27.500 sq. M.. is a little less than that of Scotland. On the N. it in bounded by the Province of Quebec, on the W. by the State of Maine, on the S. by the Bay of Fundy, and on the E. by the Gulf of St, Lawrence, while at its S.E. angle it connects with Nova Scotia by the narrow Isfhmus of Chignecto (see p. 72). It has a coast-line of about 5()0.M., with nunurous bays and excellent luwbours. The chief rivers are the f^t. John (p. 13(1), the Mirnmichi ^p. 68), and the Restigoucht (p. 6G). The surface consists mainly of undulating plains and hills, with no mountain-ranges properly so called, and much of it is still covered with forest. Perhaps two-thirds of it are available for agriculture, but so far only about one-tenth has been cleared and occupied. All the ordinary British cereals and roots are successfully grown. Along with agriculture, fishing and lumbering are the chief pursuits of the Inhabitants, of whom there were 321.233 in Is81 and 321.203 in 1891. The fisheries employ 10,000 men and are second in value to those of Nova Scotia alone. The mineral resources include coal. iron, gypsum, copper, and manganese. About one-third of the population is (»f English origin, one-third Irish, one-sixth French, nearly one-sixth Scottish. The Indians number about 1400. — New Brunswick was included in the grunt of 'Acadia' made to De Monts in 1603 (comp. p. 77l. but in 1713 the French tried to restrict this name to Nova Scotia, and it was not till 1763 that New^ Brunswick became an undisputed part of the British Empire (coinp. p. 72). 3Iany of the Nova .*^cotia Acadians took refuge in New Bruns- wick in 1755 (see p. 64). New Brunswick was made a separate province in 1784 (p. 77) and joined the Dominion of Canada in 1867. — New Bruns- wick offers some of the best fishing and shooting in Canada (comp. pp. 134, 1). The chief street, with the best shops and most of the public buildings , is Queen Street, running along the water-front for about 11/2 M. Following it to the left ( S.E.^ on coming up from ^he steamboat-wharf, we pass the Queen Hotel ( r. ) and the Court House {].) and soon reach the Parliament Building, a handsome stone structure, with a Corinthian portico, a small dome, and mansard corner-towers. Adjacent is a building of purplish sandstone con- taining the Ministtrial Offices. The Assembly Hall, on the ground-!loor to the right on entering, con- tains portraits of George III. and Queen Charlotte, the Earl of Sheffield, etc. The Legislature, which consists of 41 members, including the Speaker, generally meets in February. — The Supreme Court, to the left, contains portraits of the Chief Justices of New Brunswick. — The Ball of t/it Legis- lative Council., upstairs, has not been used since New Brunswick declared for a one-chamber legislature, — The Library., at the back of the main build- ing, contains a set of the plates of Audubon's 'Birds' and other valuable works. — An excellent *View is obtained from the Dome. In the Crown Land Office .^ in the Ministerial Building, is a copy of the 'Atlantic Neptune', published for the use of the British Navy in 1(70. A little way beyond the Parliament Building, in a pretty wooded 'close', stands *Chri8t-Church Cathedral, a small but beautiful Dec. Gothic building of grey stone, with a spire 180 ft. high. It 134 Route 23. FREDERICTON. was built in 1849, through the exertions and largely at the expense of Bishop Medley (d. 1892 ), who is buried to the E. of the choir. The *Inteiior, with its shallow transepts and spacious choir, is simply hut tastefully adorned and makes a pleasing impression. The Stained- Olatt Window at the E. end was a gift of the Episcopalians of the United States. Behind the organ is a tablet to Major- General Smyth (d. 1823), Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick. — Services on Sun. at 8, 11, and 7; holy-days at 11 a.m.; week-days at 5 p.m.; litany at 9 a.m. on Wed. and Friday. If we turn to the right (N.W.) on reaching Queen St. from the wharf, we pass (right) the Officers^ Square , with Its green lawns, the Officers^ Quarters, the Post Office, the BarracTcs, the Normal School, and the City Hall. Farther on , in the same direction, we pass the wooden Victoria Hospital, an institution due to the activity of Lady Tilley, and reach Government House, the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor. Aoout V2 ^- farther out is the Hermitage^ formerly the residence of the Hon. Thos. Baillie; the mansion was burned down some time ago , and the attractive grounds have been secured as the site of a Roman Catholic institution. Drivers may follow thia pleasant road along the river to (4 M.) the village of Sprirtghill (p. 135). At the back of Fredericton rises a series of wooded heights, on the southernmost of which, IV2M. from the centre of the city, stands the University of New Brunswick, a substantial stone building dating from 1828 (60 students). It should be visited for the sake of the splendid *View from the cupola. It has also a very excellent geological museum. Among the other noticeable buildings of Fredericton may be mentioned the Presbyterian and Methodist Churches and the little Anglican church now known as Christ Church but originally called St. Ann^s. No visitor should omit to cross the river by the White Bridge (p. 132), which begins behind the Post Office and leads to the village of St. Mary's, at the mouth of the iVashwaaksis ('little Nashwaiik'). It is adjoined by a small settlement of Malicete Indians, whose servij^.es as canoe-men and guides are much in demand among sportsmen. To the S. of St. Mary's, at the mouth of the Naslmaak, lies Gibson, a lumbering village with about 1000 inhabitants. A drive hence up the Nashwaak leads to (3 M.) the model village of Marysville, the seat of the large lumber-mills of Mr. Alexander Gibson, the 'Lumber King of New Brunswick', who employs altogether about 1200 men. The points of interest lere include the Saw-Mills, a large Cotton Mill, the rows of neat little rci-brick or wooden houses of the employees, and the somewhat fantastic ^tagonal Church, — Gibson and Marysville are stations on the Canada Eastern Railway (aee p. 69), and Gibson is also on the C P.R. line to Woodstock (see p. 135). A delightful canoe-trip may be taken up the Nathwaaksis (aee above) to (12 M.) its pretty Falls. Fredericton is a good starting-point for caribou-shooting, ihe best season for which is in December, after the first snow. Guides, equipnents, and camp supplies are easily obtainable here. Good fishing of various kinds is also accessible hence. Information may be obtained on applica- tion to Mr. J. Henry Phair, Fishing Commissioner for the Province of New Brunswick. From Fredericton to Chatham (Canada Eastern Railway), see p. 69; to Woodstockt aee R. 24. KESWICK. 24. Route. 135 b. By Railway. 67 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in 2^/4 hrs. (fare $ 2). From St. John to (^46 M.) Frederirton Junction, see pp. 32, 33. Our line here diverges to the right (N.) and runs throujih a wooded district, at some distance to the W. of the River Oromocto (p. 132). None of the intermediate stations are important. 53 M. Rusingomis ; 57 M. Waasis; 61 M. Glasier; 63 M. Doak; 64 M. Victoria, 66 M. Salamanca. 67 M. Fredericton, see p. 132. The Union Railway Station lies at the E. end of the city. 24. From Fredericton to Woodstock. a. By Bailway. 64 M. Canada Pacific Railway in 41/4 lirs. (fare $3). Fredericton, see p. 132. The train crosses the St. John by a fine cantilever steel bridge (view), 84 M. long, to (i M.) Gibson (p. 134). It then turns to the left (W.), passes (2 x\I. ) St. Marys, and crosses the Niishwaaksis (p. 134) at (4 M.) Douglas. Fine views of the St. John are enjoyed to the left; Springhill (p. 134) is visible on the opposite shore. At (13 M.) KesiricTc we turn to the right, quit the St. John, and ascend the left bank of the Keswick. Some pleas- ant bits of scenery are passe ^ at first, but farther up, the valley is dreary and unattractive. The line gradually bends round to the W., crossing and recrossing the stream. 17 M. Cardigan; 20 M. Ztu- land; 29 M. Upper Keswick; 41 M. Woodstock Road ; 44 M. Nac- kawic; 58 M. Uavelock. At ( 57 M. ) Newburg Junction { Rail. Restau- rant) we join the line from Woodstock to Edmundston (see R, 25) and follow it towards the S. , with the St. John River to the right. Beyond (62 M.) Upper Woodstock we cross the St. John by a long wooden bridge and reach — 64 M. Woodstock (see p. 136). b. By Eiver. In spring and autumn , when the water is high enough to permit it, a 'stern-wheer steamer plies up the St. John to Woodstock (64 M. ; fare $1.50). The scenery is attractive. Fredericton, see p. 132. The steamer at first runs towards the W., passing (5 M. ; 1.) Springhill, Sugar Island (r.), and (9 M. ; 1.) Lower French Village, an Acadian settlement opposite the mouth of the Keswick (see above). The river then turns to the S.W. 17 M. Upper Kingsclear. — 20 M. (r.) Lower Queenshury. The river here turns again to the N.W. — 22 M. ( 1.) Lower Prince Wil- liam. — 23 M. Bear Island. — 25 M. (1.) Prince William. 30 M. (r.) Upper Queensbury. The river bends to the right. 40 M. (1.) Poquiock, picturesquely situated at the mouth of the river of that name, the outlet of Lake Oeorge. In descending to 136 Route 24. WOODSTOCK. the St. John this stream forms a fall 40 ft. high and cuts its way through a narrow gor^e ^4 M. long. — The St. Jo. :i once more turns to the W. 44 M. Meductic Rapida, which in low water the steamer ascends with some ditticulty. 45 M. (1.) Lowtr Canterbury^ near the mouth of the Sheoyomoc River. — 47 M. (r. ) Southampton. — 51 M. (1.) Upper Canterbury^ at the mouth of Eet River. About 4 M. farther on, beyond 55 M. (r. ) Northampton^ is the site of the old Meductic fort and Indian village (1. ), wlru'h have existed from time immemorial and are described by English and French writers more than two centuries ago. The river here flows almost N. and S. 57 .M. (1.) Lower Woodstock. 64 M. (1.) Woodstock ( Wilbur, Exchange. Victoria, $112; ^"•'^• Commercial Agent J. a town of 3290 inhab., pleasantly situated on a high blulf, at the confluence of the St. John and the Medumekeag., is the centre of a thriving agricultural district. It also possesses several saw-mills, foundries, and factories, but the iron-mines in the vicinity are no longer worked. Tiie drives in the vicinity of the town are picturesque and the roads excellent. A handsome iron bridge with stone piers spans the river to Grafton^ on the E. side. Froiii Woodstock to McAdam Junction, soe p. 32; to Grand Falls and Edmunditon^ see R. 25. 25. From Woodstock to Grand Falls and Edmundston. 88 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in G-/3 hrs. (fare $3.50). This line runs through a picturesque district, and the Grand F'alls are well worth seeing. From Woodstock to (5 M.) JSewburg Junction, see p. 135. Our line now runs to the N., hugging the E. bank of the St. John (views to the left). 12 M. Hartland; 16 M. Peel. — 23 M. Vlorenceville ; the prettily situated village is on the opposite side of the river. About 6 M. to the S. W, rises Mars Hill (1200 it.). — The scenery improves. 26 M. Bristol is oidy 15 M. by road from the upper waters of the main arm of the Miramichi (see p. 68). At (40 M.) Muniac we cross the stream of that name. — From (48 M.) Perth the Tobique Valley Ruilnay , opened in 1893, runs to (28 M.) Plaster Rock, with its rich deposits of gypsum. — The train now crosses the St. John to (49 M.) Andover (Perleys Inn), a village of 300 inhab. , form- ing the headquarters of the anglers of the Tobique district. About 1 M. above Andovor, on the opposite side of the St. John, is the mouth of the *Tobique, a famous stream fur salmon, trout, and scenery. Guides ($ l-l'/s per day) and canoes may be obtainei in the Maiicete Till- age at the mouth of the river. The enthusiatic angior may push his way up to A't'cfor Lake, at the headwaters of the Tobiqtie (a week's journey), whence a portage of 3 M. will bring him to the headwaters of the Nepi- siguit (p. 68). Thence he may paddle in 5-6 days to the Great Fallt of the Nepisiguit.20 M. from Bathurst (comp. p. 68). Near Nictor Lake is Bald Mt. (2000 ft.), the highest point in New Brunswick. GRAND FALLS. 25. Route. 137 From (54 M.) Aroostook Junction a branch -line runs up the valley of the .\roostcok to (7 M. I Fort Fairfield, (19 M. I Ctrihou. and (34 M. ) Presque Isle, three small towns; in Maine ( 2-^000 inhab. I. The so-callt'd ^Aroostook War', in IS39, arose from dispnte-s about the boundary between New Brunswick and 31a ine l)Ut did not pass beyond be stage of '•mobilisation of forces" on both sides. As a result of the '.nsuing diplomacy, the Aroostook Valley, which had been largely «ettled by New Brunswickers. was adjudged to the United States. The valJuv affords e.xcellent fishing and also bear, moose, caribou, deer, and duck shooting. The name will be familiar to all admirers of IloxcelVn 'Lady of the A ostouk'. The line crosses the Aroostook aiul continues to follow the St. .John, which now flows to our right. — T'2 M. Grand Falls (Grand Falls Hotel, a large summer-hotel: American Ho. ; (Uasier's), a small town with about 600 inhab., attracts a number of summer-visitors by its line scenery and cool climate. The town, through which runs a wide grassy avenue named Broadway, occupies a high plateau sur- rounded on three sides by the river and on the fourth by a ravine. Partridge and duck shooting are popular in autumn. Opposite the town are the "Grand Falls of the St. John, where the river suddenly contracts and pUinges into a rocky gorge from a height of 74 ft. These falls rank with the finest on the continent in everything bnt size, and their environment is very impressive. A good distant view of them is obtained from the Suspensi07i Bridge, which crosses the river aboiit 200 yds. below, w^hile a nearer view is (d)tained from the old mill or by descending the steep steps to the bottom of the ravine. — The ravine is about 3/4 M. long and 2oU ft. wide, while its sides of dark calcareous slate rise precipitously to a height of 100-250 ft. It contains several lesser falls and rapids, with a total descent of 50 ft. more. Among the subordinate points of interest in it are the Crtie, the Coff>e Mill, and the Wills. The visitor should try to see the falls when lumber is passing over them. — A romantic Indian tradition (not. however, by any means confined to this district) narrates that an invading party of Mohawks captured two Malicete squaws, whom they forced to act as their pilots down the river. The women assured them that the stream was free from falls or rapids and that the noise they heard was that of a tributary stream. The Mohawks consequently did not realise tneir danger till too late, and their canoes were all swept over the falls — the heroines losing their own lives but saving their village from destruction. The railway crosses to the left (E.)bank of the river a little above the falls and continues its course towards the N.AV. (views to the left). The river now forms the boundary between New Brunswick and Maine , and we soon reach the Acadiau district mentioned at p. 64. — 85 M. St. Leonard's. — 89 M. Grand River lies at the mouth of the river of that name. This forms the beginning of a canoe and jxirtage route to the head- waters of the Restigoucfie (p. 66). which are within about 16 M. of this part of the St. John. Guides and canoes are generally brought from the Malicete settlements at the mouth of the Tobique fp. 136) but may also be obtained at one of the Acadian villages. 101 M. Green River: 106 M. St. Basil, with a large Roman Catho- lic church and convent. — The train continues to hug the river, which here sweeps round to the W., and soon reaches — 111 M. Edmundston (see p. 641. Route hence via Lake Temis- couitta to Riviere du Loup, see p. 64. 138 26. From St. John to St. Stephen and St. Andrews. a. By Bailway. St. Stephen is reached by the Shobk Line Railway (82 M.) in 41/2 hrs. (fare $ 2.60j or by the Canadian Pacific Railway via 3IcAdam Junction in 5 hrs. St. Andrews is reached by the C. P. R. via McAdam Junction (comp. pp. 32, 33) in 53/4 hrs. (fare §2.60). In fine weather the steamboat voyage (R. 26b) is preferable to the slow and imperfectly equipped service of the Shore Line Railway. St. John., see p. 1*24. The train of the Shore Line starts from Carleton Ferry (p. 128). on the W. side of the harbour, and runs to the W., following the general line of the coast hut affording com- paratively few views of the Bay of Fundy (p. 122). — 8 M. Spruce Lake (p. 129); 17 M. Musquash, a village with 150 inhab., at the head of a small harbour; 24 M. Lepreaux, at the head of Mace's Bay. Point Lepreaux, 7M. to the S., is provided with a lighthouse. 38 M. Pennfield. — 47 M. St. George (Kelman Ho.., $1; JJ. S. Consular Agent), a small seaport, with 1000 inhab., at the mouth of the Magaguadavic (locally pronounced '^^agadavy'), which is here com- pressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide and plunges into the harbour from a height of 50 ft. St. George exp?'•^5 lumber and fine red granite, quarried in the neighbourhood. Good trout -fishing is obtained in Lake Utopia. 1 M. to the N. — 53 M. Bonney River; 62 M. Dyer's. At (68 M.) St. Andrews Crossing we intersect the C.P.R. line from McAdam Junction to St. Andrews. The distance to the latter place, which is described below, is 17 M. We now pass (77 M.) Oak Bay, at the head of the inlet of the St. Croix River so called (see p. 139), and soon reach — 82 M. St. Stephen (see p. 139 ). b. By Steamer. A steamer of the International S.S. Co. plies daily in summer from St. John to Edstpovt , where it connects with steamers for St. Andrews (through-fare $1.50) and St. Stephen ($1.75; 10 hrs. in all). See daily papers or enquire at the steamboat office. St. John, see p. 124. On leaving the harbour, the steamer runs well out into the Bay of Fundy (p. 122) and steers a little to the S. of W. Beyond Split Rock Point opens Musquash Harbour ( see above), and farther on is Point Lepreaux (see above), with its double light and steam foghorn. We then cross the wide entrance of Mace's Bay (see above), leaving Deer Island (p. 16) to the right. At Eastport (see p. 16) we change to another steamer . which steers to the N., passing between Moose Island and Deer Island (see above), and beyond Pleasant Point (1.), the chief settlement of the Passamaq noddy Indians, enters Passamaquoddy Bay. Beyond Nany Island we enter the St. Croix River. St. Andrews (*Algonquin, a large summer-hotel, $3-5; Central Exchange, $ 3 ; U. S. Con. Agent), a seaport and summer-resort, ST. STEPHEN. 26. Route. 139 •with about 1400 inhab., is finely sitnatetl on a peninsula between Passamaquoddy Bay and the St. Croix River, here 2 M. wide aiul separating New Brunswick from Maine. The town lies on a gentle slope, rising to a height of 150 ft., while a little farther back the hills are 100 ft. higher. The attractions of the place include good sea-bathing and boating, a summer climate cool and comparativtly free from fog, sea and fresh-water fishing, lobster spearing, and excellentroads for riding or driving. It is frequentedby many visitors from both Canada and the United States. St. Andrews, which was founded aboiit 1783, has a good harbour and formerly carried on a brisk trade with the West Indies, This, however, has now been absorbed by St. Stephen and St. John, and the wharves of St. Andrews are desolate and decayed. One of the chief points of interest near St. Andrews is the Chamcook Aft.. 4 M. to the N., the base of which may be reached by road or railway. The top commands a fine *View of Passamaquoddy Bay. — Excursions may also be made to Doucet's Island (see below) and t(» the little American village of Robbitiston, on the opposite side of the St. Croix. — Longer trips may be made to Eastport (steamer daily in summer). C'impohello (p. 140), and Grand Manan. — From St. Andrews to McAdam Junction, see p. 138. The sail up the St. Croix Elver from St. Andrews to St. Stephen fl7M.) is interesting and picturesque. To the left is seen the village of Robbinston { see above) ; to the right rises Chamcook Mt. (see above). About 51/2 M. above St. Andrews we pass (left) Doucet's Island, the site of the first settlement in Acadia. In 1604 the Sieur de Monts. to whom Henry IV. had made a grant of Acadia, arrived in the St. Croix River at the head of an expedition which included Champlain among its members and fixed upon the grassy Jsle St. Croix (now Doucet's Island) as tlie site of his settlement. A group of wooden dwellings, defended by two batteries, was erected, and grain and vegetables were planted. The crops, however, failed to ripen, and the extreme cold of the winter was more than the ill-fed and ill-housed French- men could stand. Scurvy broke out and carried ofT nearly half of the ^0 settlers. When a supply-ship arrived in June, 1605, the island was aban- doned, and the unfortunate colonists took refuge in Port Koyjil (p. 121). The only present inhabitants of the island are the keepers of the lighthouse. In 1763, when it was agreed that the St. Croix should be the boundary between New Brunswick and the United States, the latter country claimed that the Magaguadavic (p. 138) was the stream in question. The discovery of some remains of the settlement of De Monts. however, settled the matter beyond dispute. About 4*2 M. farther up, the river bends to the left (W.), while Oak Bay opens out to the N., in the direction we have been moving. It has been supposed that the arrangement of the river and its arms here suggested the name 'Croix'. To the left rises the promontory of the DeviVs Head (properly D'Orville's). In 2^2 M. more we pass the flshing-villae lamed The Ledge., and 4 M. beyond this lies — St. Stephen f H'mdfsor, $2; Queen.i $1^2; ^' ^- Consul), a busy little town with (1891) 2680 inhab., at the head of navigation on the St. Croix. Its chief activity is in shipping lumber, but it also carries on a general trade and has a few manufactories. About 2 M. above St. Stephen is the sister-town of MUltown (^2146 inhab.), and on the opposite shore of the river is the American town of Calais 140 Route 27. CAMPOBELLO. (American Ho. , Border City. St. Croix Exchange, $2), with 7000 inhab. atid similar interests to those of St. Stephen. From St. St( pbeu to McAdam Junction, see p. 32. — Sleamera ply regularly in summer from St. Stephen to .*>■<. Aiidreics and Eattport (p. 16). 27. Campobello and Grand Manan. These two islands are conveniently treated of together, as they are both reached via Eastport (p. 16), the routes to which are in- dicated at pp. 16, 138. a. Campobello. Small steamers ply from Eastpurt to (2'/2 M.) Caiapohdlo at frequent intervals ('/^ lir- ; f^ire 25c.). Tickets are issued to Campobello trom all important points, and baggage may be cheeked through. The ferry-steamers connect with all passenger-steamers calling at Kastport. Campobello {The Owen; '*Tyn-y-Coed Hotel, with its umex the Tyn-y~Maes, $3^.2-'^)), an island 9-10 M. long and 2-3 M. wide, lies between Passdmaquoddy Bay and the Bay of Fundy, just on the Canadian (New Brtinswick) side of the international boundary. It is irregular in shape, and its shores abound in picturesque clitfs, chasms, fjords, and beaches. The interior is covered with a dense growth of firs and larches, affording a pleasant shade for the numer- ous walks and drives that have been made through it in all direct- ions. The climate is cool in summer, ranging from bO'^ to 75" Fahr. From 1767 to 1880 the island belonged to Adm. WiUiim Oven and his descendants, but in the latter year it was purchased by a syn- dicate of New Yorkers and Bostonians, who have spent large sums on its development, and it has lately become a favourite summer- resort. In 1891 the number of resident inhabitants was about 1200. Excursions. To Herring Cove Beach, 13/4 ^I- The shady road crosses L(tke (Hen Severn by a bridge t>UOft. long. The crescent-shaped beach is 3 M. long. We may return from its fartlier end by the Herring Cove road, or by a l)ridle-path diverging to the left from that road and travers- ing the wood. — To "Head Harbor, 10 M. The road leads partly along the coast and partly through the well-wooded interior. It passes the famous Cold Spring, with a uniform temperature of 44^, and Bunker Hill (3U0 ft.), the top of which, reached by a bridle-path, atl'ords a *View of Grand Manan, the Wolves., and (on very clear days, with a telescope) Nova Scotia. A detour may be made from this road to (2 M.) * Schooner Core, whence a path (good ioT ^ji M., when the Head comes in sight; difficult trail thence) leads to (2 M.) Nancif Head, a fine clilf, 210 ft. high, with a pretty beach at its foot. Following the Head Harbor road a little farther, we may diverge to the right to Mill Cove. (If we include this point, it is wise to oring luncheon and devote the whole day to the ex- cursion.) — Nine Mile Drive (3 hrs.). We follow the (Hen Severn road for 1 M. and then the Raccoon Beach road to the (IV2 51.) Raccoon Beach, whence we may visit the wild Southern Head on foot (5 min.). Return- ing to the road, we follow it to the right for 5 M. and return by either the Fitzicilliam Road or the Yarrows Road. — To 'Man -of- War Head (31/4 M.; fine views). We proceed through Welchpool. the largest hamlet on the island, and then bear to the right over the North Road. The head is a high rocky bluff at the entrarce of Harbor de Lute, commanding a good view. ~ Eastern Head. From the end of the Herring Cove road we descend rapidly to the left and cross a beach. A few minutes farther GRAND MANAN. 27. Route. 141 nil we follow a path to the right which leads to (20 min.J the summit (300 ft.: *View). — Other points of interest are 'Friar's Head, Robinson's Jlarine, Jacob's LatUlrr, Meadow Brook Corf, ete. KxLi Ksiuxs By Watek niny bo niade to Dennj/tville , Calais (p. 139). St. Andrews (p. 138j, iiji the Magaijuadavic liirxr to >St. Oeorga (p. 138), iirand Moat Co. runs twice or thricf weekly from Fastport (p. 16i to(l2M.i .Vorifi Hmd. on the island ( if Grand Manan (2 hn.: fare $1). Grand Manan (a cent on second syllable), an island belonging to New Brunswick hut lying about 8 M. from the coast of Maine, near the entrance to Passamaquoddy Bay (p. 17). is 22 M. long and 3-8 M. Avide and in 1891 contained '2400 inhabitants. It pos- sesses somo of the linest clitl scenery in America, while its cool (though somewhat foggy) climate, its fishing and shooting, and its inexpensiveness are additional attractions to summer visitors. The roads tiiroughout the island are excellent. The main occupation of the people is the cod, haddo'-k . pollock, halibut, and herring fisheries. North Head, now the chief village on the island, lies on Flayy's Cove, near the N. end of the K. side. In the vicinity is the Marble liidge Hou^e ($li-.2-2), the only 'hotel* on the island, (rood roads lead hence both to the N. and S. Following: the former, we pass the village of Sprague's Core or Fettes's Cove, below Swallow-tail Head, and (27-_> M.) Whale Cove, with a beach where porphyry, agates, and jasper may be picked up ( fine view s). A little farther on is the Old Bishop or Bishops Head, the N. extremity of the island. The finest clilfs are at the S. end of the island. The road to them from llagg's Cove follows the shore more or less closely to Castnlia. Woodirard's Core, and ( f) M.) Grand Harbor, formerly the chief village on the island. It then leaves the sea for a time, but regains it at ( 0V2 ^1- ) Seal Cove, whence it is continued to (4 M. ) Deep Cove. From this point roads lead to (IV'2 ^-^ *South West Head (lighthouse), where the cliffs rise to a i.oight of 300-400 ft., and to (2 M.) the Southern Cross. The W. coast of the island consists of an almost unbroken range of cliffs, 200-400 ft. high. A road crosses the island from Castalia (see above) to *Dark Harbor, near which is Money Cove, where Capt. Kidd is fabled to have deposited some of his treasure. A little to the N. is Indian Beach, where a number of Qiioddy Indians pass the summer engaged in the porpoise-fishery. A number of small islands fringe the E. coast of Grand Manan, while a little to the 8. of it are Gannet Rock and the Seal Islands^ each with a lighthouse. 142 28. From St. John to Bangor and Portland. 34U M. Canadian Pacific Railv.'ay to (89 M.) Vav^cet'oro in 31/2 hr?.; Maine Central Railwat tbence to (203 M.) Bangor in S'/s-A'A li". and to (340M.) PortlandiaQ^/2-S^/2 hrs. (through-exprcssin 10-11 lir9.;fare 3T; sleeper $2V2'> parlour-car $1.75). Through -sleeping-car^ run by this route to (450 M.) Boston in 13-14 hrs. (fare $8.50; sleeper $3, parlour-car $2), For details of the United States portion of this route, see Baedeker's Handbook to the United States. From St. John to (145 M.) Mattawamkeag , see R. 7. The M. C. R. here diverges to the left from the C. P. R. route to Montreal and runs towards the S.W. 173 M. Passadunikeag \ 191 M. Oldtown. 203 M. Bangor (Bangor Ho., $2^2; Bangor Exchange, Penob- scot Exchange, $2; Rail. Restaurant), an important lumber-trading town, with 19,103 inhab., at the head of navigation of the Penob- scot River J is more fully described in Baedekers United States. It is the junction of a branch-railway to (50 M.) Mt. Desert (see Bae- deker's United States). — 230 M. Newport is the junction of a rail- way to Dexter, Dover, and Moosehead Lake (p. 32). Near (258 M.) Waterville we reach the Kennebec, wliich we follow for some distance. 277 M. Augusta [Augusta Ho., Cony Ho., $2'/2), the capital of Maine, with 10,527 inhab. and a line State House, lies on both banks of the Kennebec. — 289 M. Iceboro, with huge ice- houses. 310 M. Brunswick (Tontine, $2-21/2 5 ^«i^- Restaurant), a town of 6012 inhab., at the head of the tidal waters of the Androscoggin, is the seat of Bowdoin College (200-300 students^. 340 M. Portland, see p. 18. For the continuation of the route from Portland to Boston, sec Bae- deker''s Handbook to the United States, — Steamer from Portland to Boston and to St. John, see R. 4 a. 29. From Montreal to Ottawa. a. ViH Canadian Pacific Bailway. 120 M. Railway in 3V2-5V2 hrs. (fare $3.50; parlour-car 50 c.; sleeper 5,2). This line forms part of the transcontinental through-route described in KR. 41-44. Some of the trains start from Dalhousie Square Station (p. 19), but connecting trains generally run also from Windsor Street Station (p. 19), starting somewhat earlier. Montreal, see p. 19. The train traverses Hochelaga, joins the Windsor Street train (see above) at (5 M.) Mile End, passes the Convent of the Sacred Heart (on the hills to the right), crosses a branch of the Ottawa at (10 M.) Sault-au-Recollet (p. 30), and diverges to the left from the line to Quebec at (12 M.) St. Martin's Junction (p. 33). At (17 M.) Ste. Rose, a French village, frequented as a summer-resort, we cross the northernmost branch of the Ottawa. The valley of the Ottawa, which we now follow, is occupied mainly by long narrow French farms. We cross numerous streams. From (20 M.) Ste. Therese, with a large R. C. college, branch-lines diverge to St, Lin. Ste. AgathCj and St. Eustache. I#fe' B (* v^ '"17 in '7^^'^~^' '^'^'^7'^'^ 7 1 ~r '.f , '■^. -U^ ^ * -J- -.* . > V^ . <^^^A- „_ «?*V ^ '^-^ >^. K LadiK Collfge Rcaz-Ji. -_J VJ"5!^^, Bull.!? H>,ona St Y jj "^ Court I „ , •= a ^ . ' Drpartmim STAtdreVs Hideau r /; u r A .»• \ — #-4— Tkdj 1 ^ninrton I 1-1 c ""^^°^ BxhibTtidn ^y , qpnrzu Bo. ■tt. ^"•i&tui 'tfri rose i- '^ t '^ •' jSL u r- i a G J o u f e s t e r- I J e p (• a 71 I y .. 7 'Jit- • ^ - ^ '^' I J? ,J St. J u in 'c s T I o r r 71 {• ^ 2fr^ Leo d ~ F I'^o T a St " Av ch i3& ail a St i s a B Cat'^er'H " K Ritli-aii / 'pi-an r' (iorl Printing Biin-aa Cu.thcu.rt ^*^ St. firey TT a t e r I SrArLdre St. v.n^C. Ch.jc r c h <|Cath*'dral ^ t^ S^ Tatyi-i:-k-:^-tr^ r 7 air e n c e .i' t. '^^'^'^^^Frailli^ St Sq. .| \ -R-r-dr-c—w—u^ St ICOMXt > £0. 1^ ("artier ; v^ Jnst. ~ afOttitwa\^ j w < r ft e Si . -^ ~ ■ N ^ '» ,. h S L. y e. lS..)16.98o. The value «rf its exports and im- ports in 1892 was .$5.683.2.50. See the excellent account of Ottawa by F. A. Diron in -Picturesque Canada'. The most conspicuous single feature in Ottawa is the magnificent group of *Government Buildings (PI. I), 3). commandinirly situated on a bluff overlooking the Ottawa, and coveritig an ar^'a of four acres. Tliey were erected in 1^59-65, at a cost of over $5,000,000 (1,000.000 L), and are in a 'style of architecture based on the Gothic of the '12th cent., combining the elements of grace and simplicity which the climate of the country seems to require. A cream-coloured sandstone from the neighbouring district, to which age is fast adding fresh beauty of colour, with arches over the doors and windows of a warm red sandstone from Potsdam and dressings of Ohio freestone, has been happily employed — the effect of colour, apart from form, being most grateful to the eye' (Dixon). The archite<-ts were Fuller >S' Jones (Parliament Building") and Stent if Laver (Departmental Build- ings). The buildings are surroundedby beautifully kept lawns, diver- sified with flower-beds. The central building, with its flue tower (220 ft. high), is 470 ft. in length and is occupied by the Houses of Parliament; the two wings harbour the various Ministerial Offices. Behind the main building is the *IAhrarxi of Parliament . a beautiful polygonal structure. with a dome supported by graceful flying buttresses. 'As regards purity of art and manliness of co'iception, their {i.e. the architects') joint work is entitled to the very hiuhest praise. ... I know no modern Gothic purer of its kind or less sullied with fictitious ornamenta- tion. ... I know no site for such a set of buildings so happy as regards both beauty and grandeur' (Antfio v TroUopc)- The Interior is neat and plain in its appointments, but there are good stone carvings at various points of the halls and corridors of the Parliament Building. The Stmafe Chamber., to the right of the entrance, and the Hovsn of Commons^ to the left, are commodious and business-like apartments. During the sitting of Parliament visitors are admitted to the public galleries by a Member's order, which strangers can generally procure on application to one of the messengers; admission to the Speaker's gallery requires a Spenk- er's order. The corridor of the Senate has portraits of ex-Speakers, while the Commons Reading Room contains portraits of ex-Speakers of the House. 'Few of the speeches delivered in the Ifou^^e can be called iusiiiriiig. In fact, when not personal, they are prosaic. This can hardly be helped, for a Canadian Parliament, like Congress in the United States, deals, as a rule, with matters from which only genius could draw inspiration. The French-CanadiaM members, in consequence, pr bably of the classical train- ing that is the basis of their education, are far superior to their English- speaking confi'h'ei in accuracy of expression and grace of style. Even Baedeker's Canada. 10 146 Route 30. OTTAWA. Basilica. when they speak in English these qualities are noticeable* (Dixon). — The building to the right (E.) contains the departments of State, Finance, the Interior, Justice, and the Auditor General; alfotheOf/iceo/the Governor- General. The left wing is devoted to the departments of Public Works, Bailtoays, M'lrine and Fisheries. Militia^ Inland Revenue, Trade and Commerce, and Customs. The Government Archives, a valuable and interesting series of which has been edited, calendared, and published by the archivist, Mr. Brymner. are also housed in the W. buildinL'. The Post-Master Gtmeral, the Minister of Agriculture, and the Department of Indian Affairs have their quarters in the ' Langevin Block or New Departmental Biiilding (PI. l>, 3), a handsome and sub- stantial structure at the corner of Wellington St. and EluinSt., constructed in 1883 at a cost of $787,000. — The only part of the interior of the Do- minion Buildings on which ad( nment has been lavished is the *Library (A.D.DeCelles and Martin Grifjui, joint lilirarians), which is certainly one of the most beautiful and convenient structures for its purpose in America. It now contains 160,000 vols., including many on Canada, and is open to the public as a free reference library (9-4). The book-cases and panelling are of Canadian pine, adorned with excellent carving and the arms of the Dominion and provinces. The library also contains a statue of Queen Victoria (by Marshall Wood) and busts of the Prince and Princess of Wales, The Tower of the main building afforda an excellent "View of Ottawa, the river, the Chaudiere Falls, etc. — Good views are alsf> obtained from the walks bid out in the Parliament Hill grounds, especially from the so-called * Lovers'" Walk, skirting the outside of the blutfs , and from the arbour behind the library. In the W. part of the jzroundo is a Statue of Sir George Etienm Cartier (1814-73). The modest little building at the S.W. corner of Parliament Hill is oc- cupied at present by the SupremeCourt of Canada (PI. C, 3), until more worthy permanent ([uarters are preiiared f(jr it. Parliament Square is separated from Wellington Street (PI. B-D, 3), with its handsome hanks and offices, by a low stone wall with fine iron-work railings and ffates. The pretty little ^Major's Hill Parle (PI. D, 2), to the E. of Par- liament Hill, commands good views of tlie river. It contains a monu- ment to two Ottawans who fell in the Kiel Rebellion (p. 196). On Nepean Point, at the end of Major's Hill Park, is the Saluting Battery (.q;uns of 1797). It is proposed to construct a new railway-bridge across the Ottawa here. At the S. end of Major's Hill Park the Rideau Canal (p. 144) is crossed by the Dufferin Bridge and the Sappers Bridge (PI. D, 3), forming an acute angle with each other. From the former a striking view is obtained of the six locks by which the canal makes its final descent to the Ottawa Kiver. Following Sussex Street (PI. D, 2, 3) to the left (N.) from the end of the Sappers Bridge, we soon reacli the office of the Geological Survey of Canada (PI. 1^3), containing a very interesting and unusually well-arranged *Museuni (open, free, 9-4). Farther out, in the same street, in the midst of a French popula- tion, is theBoman Catholic Cathedral of Notre Dame, or the Basilica (PI. D,E, 2), with its twin towers, 200 ft. in height. It contains a paint- ing ascribed to Murillo. In front of it is a Status of Bishop (iuigues, first Bishop of Ottawa ( 1848-74). — Nearly opposite is the Printing Bureau., a large brick building in which all the Government printing is done (Queen's Printer. Dr. S. E, Dawsonl. Art Gallery, OTTAWA. 30. Route. 147 Continuing to follow Sussex St. (tramway), which bends to the right a little farther on, we reach the point where the Eideau forms rh« pretty little 'curtain-like' Eideau Falls (30 P liisrh : PL F, 1) as it joins the Ottawa. [To see them we have to pass through a lumber- yard; they are best seen from a boat on the Ottawa.] — Crossing the bridge and following the proloniration of Sussex St., we soon reach the entrance to the grounds of *Eideau Hall (PI. G. 1), the residence of the Governor-General of Canaila. Eidoau Hall is a lartie. rambling;, anfl plain but comfortabl*- edifice. The prounns are pretty, but not so fine as those of Spenoer Wo*.d (j». 46). They contain & Skatini/ J'otul and Toho(jyun Slide, whicli T)re8ent a very pay and lively sceno in winter. Tho Princess Vi^ta, cut through the woods at the instance of the Princess Louise, a fiords % charmin;.'; view of the Ottawa and the mountains beyond it. From Rideau Rail we may go direct by tramway (p. 144) to the CHAuniKREBniDOE (PI. B. 2), just above which are the line *Cliau- diere Falls, where the Oitawa, narrowed to about 200 ft., descends 50 ft. over ragged ledges of rock. The water-power here ia used by countless '^aw Milh^ a visit to one of which will be of sireat interest to the visitor unacnuainted with the marvelloua perfection and delicacy of the machinery for converting, rough forest-trees into trim yellow planks and shlnirlcs. Thousands of logs are floating in the adjacent 'booms"-, and tiie surface of the smoother parts of the river is covered with saw-dust shinincr like gold in the sunliglit. It is estinL-^'ed that there are usually 125,000,000 ft. of lumber on the Chaudiere 'piling grounds'. Near the falls are the Timber Slides, b> which the lumber from the upper river descends to the navigable water below. The squared logs are made up into 'cribs' just fitting into the slides; and it ia one of the re- cognized items of a visit to Ottawa to 'run the slides'' as a pasaengei on one cf these rafts. This is an exciting experience, unattended by danger, and permission to go down is easily obtained from tjiose in charge. On the opposite side of the river here (in the province of Quebec), is the suburban town of Ifnll, with 11,265 inhab., most of whom are connected in one form or another with the lumber industry or with tii'j large Eddy Pulp and Paper Mills. At the corner of Queen St. and O'Connor St. stands the building (PI. C, D, 3) which is occupied, in somewhat curious juxtaposition, by the National Art Gallery and the Fisheries Exhibit (open, free, 9 to dusk). The Fisheries Exhibit occupies the ground-floor and the basement, the process of breeding and hatching fish being shov/n in the latter. The National Art Gallery is small and contains ;;hiefly Canadian works. Among its contents are a large picture, by G. Harris^ of the statesmen who brought about the Confederation of the Dominion in 1867, with por- traits of Sir John Maedonald, Sir Charles Tnppei, Sir Alexander Gait, Hon. George Brown fp. 157). Sir Alex. Campbell, Hon. Thos. D'Arcy McGee. Sir George E. Cartier (p. 146), TTon. Joseph Hcwe (p. 73), Sir S. Leonard Tilley, Hon. "\Vm. McDougall. and others; Time, Dea) . and Judgmeut, by G. Watts, R. A. ; a small painting by Maratfn ; a portrait of Miss Montalba, lihe artiat, by the Princess Louise; portrails of Sir John Maidonald (hy Patterson) and the Marquis of Lome (bv Millais^^ Mortgaging the Homestead, bv G. A. Beid; Cape Trinity (p. 60), by L. R. O'Brien ; a copy of West's Death of Wolfe ; A Wreath of Wild Flowers, by Wvi. Brymwr; Beacon Light in the Harbour of St. John's, by H. Sandham; Teacher 'talking over' the Trusters of a Back Settlement School, by R, Harris; and landscapes by John A. Froaer, 10* 148 Route 30. OTTAWA. Environs. 0. R. Jacobi, Mower Martin, Melbye, Homer ^Vaison, Wm. Raphael, F. M. Bell Smith, and Forshaw Day. Among the other principal buildings of Ottawa not yet mention- ed are Ottawa University (PI. E, 4), a Roman Catholic, institution with 600 students ; the Normal School, the Brill Hall (with a museum of military relics^ and the CoUeyiate Institute, all in Cartier Square (PI. I), 4) ; the City Hall (PI. D, 3) ; the Court House and Gaol (PI. E, 3) ; the Lady Stanley Institute (PL 0. 3); and vaiious Hospitals and Nunneries. Adjoining Cartier Sq. are the pleasant grounds of tht^ Ottawa Lawn Tennis Club. The Rideau Rifle Range is the scene of the annual meeting of the Dominion Rifle Association . where the crack shots are chosen for the team that represents Canada at the international shooting-contest at Bisley (see Baer/efcer's Great Britain). — The Water-Works (PI. B, 3) are interesting. — '^'Rockcliffe Park, 11/2 M. to tlie N. E. of the city limits, is reached by a charming road leading from the entrance to Rideau Hall tlirough green fields and shady groves (tramway 5 c.). It affords beautiful views of the Ottawa. — Lnnsdowne Park, at the opposite end of the city, reached by tramway (5c.l or by canal-steamers ( 10 c), is the scene of the Central Canada Annual Exhibition, the chief lacrosse matches, etc. About 1 M. to the S.W. of the city lies the *Governmenf Eaperimental Farm, where information can be obtained as to the soil and vogetal)le productions of the various parts of the Bonnnion. — Among other points of interest in the environs are the Sulphur S]>rings. 5 M. from the city, on the road to Montreal; the Cascades of /he Gufineaii River (10 M.), rca''hed by road or railway; Kettle Island Park 2 M. distant (steamer at frequent i itervals); Britannia (see below); and Aiilmer (see below). — Good shooting and tishingcan bo obtain-il within ea'^yacc\'^s of Ottawa (comp. pp. li. liv,lv). From Ottawa to Mc/itreal, see R. 31; to Winnipeg and the West, sec RR. 4144. IiioM Ottawa to Prkscott, 52 M., Canadian Pacific Railway in 2 brs. At (31 M.) Kemptville Junction fp. 151) wc intersect the C. V. R. line from Jlontreal ic Toronto (see R. 32a). — 52 M. Prescott, see p. 186. Fkom Ottawa to Fort Coulonge, 6SM., Can. Pacific Railway (to Ayl- mer) and Pontiac Pacific Junction Railway in 33/4 hrs. — This line follows the y. bank of the Ottawa above the capital. 9 M. Aylmer (Brotcn Ho., Kennedy Cen'ral, $ l'/2), on Lake Des Chines, with 2167 inhab., is a favourite resort of the Ottawans. — ^TA. Fort Cmtlonge Ues nearly opposite Pembroke (p. 188). From Ottawa to Kazaha7i:a, 47 M., Ottawa . We now begin the 'locking down" process. Tlie scenery is particiilary attractive at Jone$' Falhy wlion- tlure are t'nnr deep lo •k'! and a fine horseshoo-shaped duni . SlNJ ft. lonj: and lUO ft. high, constructed at a cost of 80,000/. — 120 M. Kingston, sec p. ISi. 31. From Ottawa to Montreal by Steamer. 130 M. Ste.^mer ok the Ottawa Steam Navigation Co. daily in summer, starting about 7. .SO a.m., in 11 hrs. (fare ;>2.T5; return fare ^4-, round trip, allowing one way l>y railway, $5.15). In the reverse direction pa3sen;j;ers join the boat at Lachine (p. 187), and the trip thence to Dttawa takes about 10 Iirs. The trip downstream is, however, preferable, as it includes the exciting passage of the Lachini; Rapirls (see p. lS7j. The steamers are comfortable and contain fair restaurants. The Ottawa, the Grand River of the early voyagenrs, is the largest tributary of the St. Lawrence, being Gl5 31. long and draining an area of 80,000 .sq. M. It rises in the W. part of the province of t^uebec, about 200 M. in a direct line to the N. of Ottawa, and flows first for 180 31. tfiwards the W., then to the S., S.K., and E., tbus ma' i^»g«»>qLU«> Park: Wcsf of jja" C.r^-pnwirh Auans oJ^Keliar * T oKmsdaJf smoi^d^. ▼■:■ If..; , _ _^ - _^,- -4o^„„„^ Ragged L. [...ur.t ^ "^ f^'.^^ -^ mnd SfiifHlnTaU.s- L.Vemon'- . . ^BiinttfitUp {1 •■--.-^ ■ f^ Jtosxpait. >■ ^ ^irvl..; I KntLurerffrihfli'^vaciuniot \'Z' t'ifUling f^- lif'.y.tt-uti- ' ^, luiiLwuomofinvnpaniot ^r Htmirxlake v / ICtminM Boskdur. -/aitiburtonl.. MA/^j, Lonii I,. ' ° <■ li>mfrxo \/ if ji Defr/.aJce o ^PA'iux'Ji , Ki/imou/il Coc Hill .Vine, o. . "1 Kq^l.. ^Aftsby \ « |,^# »„r,.. ?^^tW. *?fi/,,,,,.„,^,.-- 4fe---^-d 1- ..( ^-, ' ' J Oj^Vz-H-.W/r/v/- ^ A>rt.P,frv BtirketonSta. ^ Harwood \ o. I I % ^v o / '^\.. V^^^--::^--? 3U «- .— w VainertUebes'Geofe^EstaD'^Leipzie „ . .« „ ,„ ,. . . „ I ^V4. Warner tDeb e s ' Geog? Estal)*- Leip zi g f I r y y V y statute mies l : iPenUiroK' VV^/„v^^>--^ ■^ Davis MlP^ ' ( ■ ■^■^Mi> K(irl tpiilorce Irfik* I,, t- shamrock 1 -\ o SruftftifU o .Inui/ior' (MA IsBC Bockintfhatn Ba^--^ ^'y^ : ^ J "fir' TroMi L V -r t'lowrr'i yui . nS^„.,. ^'■'^'"i^' '-n^^o _ '^ .%:''aJL„ ^^^ V'-v^"*^:*:.^ - .^ V V^ (hnpahSi i/i/we^: V>J^--«'-V ■«l Bariiiilf/ if I?"'^'^^^ J**^""*"^^ <^ "-■^-•^^^■^ io(< ■ LoonX.o./-'^ ><" Iv - -; r\MeiTi(.'ay7lc y/roi.v ^^^^ \ |^/^*» ff Ogdeiuslnirg I iOStoeo frmJioe Prince /Ut. k?/^nl/jM^ ^ .fe^/W/^/^^^^i ^artlttiy^, W 'on yeuiipt \ Sondrci-'- ^KUis^iinili Hooker o ^eyri f/'^S^H o^ ^ Lvonxtlah .0 ^_ i. , Minn m/MrviT/'-/ *q, ^i P^torai^o^,^^.^i:BignMarifet Gf, .'y^^-^y-' UMO Eliaira Cwndert fmntftOCk "raiometrrs. SMITH'S FALLS. 32. Route. 151 tion (p. 30) the line to Boston diverges to the loft (see p. 14). A little farther on we see Lachine (p. iS7j and tlie St. Lawrence Bridge of the C. P. R. to the left. At (17 M.) Sle. Anne s (p. 15'2) we cross one of the arms of the (Htawa and leave the Isltnd of Mont- real, and at ('24 M.) VaudreuU { Central Ilotil) we cross another mouth of the Ottawa. The line now leaves the river and runs towards the S.W. through the fertile district between the St. Lawrence and tiie Ottawa. Many orchards and tracts of woodland are passed. At (40 M.) St. Polxjcarpt Junction we cross the Canada Atlantic Railway (p. 14;-5). Near (46 M.) Dalhouaie Mills we enter Ontario (p. 155). 03 M. Apple Hill] 87 M. Chesterville. At (108 M.) Kemptvdle Junction we inter- sect the C.P.R. line from Ottawa to Pre^cott (see p. 148), and at (119 M.) Merrickville we cross the Rideau River by a long iron bridge. 128 M. Smith's Falls ( Wardrobe Ho.; Rail. Restaurant), a brick- raaking and manufacturing town of 38G4 inhab., on the Rideau Canal (see p. 148), is the junction of lines to the S. to Brockville (p. 18G) and to the N. toCaWefonK«ccJanc*" important railway-centre and industrial city, with 9717 inhab.. lies on the Otonahee, which here descends 150 ft. within a few miles and affords the motive power for numer- ous mills and manufactories. The country of which this is the focus is full of pretty lakes and rivers, offering much to attract both tourist and sportsman. The so-called 'Rice Lake" or 'Peterborough' canoe originated here. Rice Lake, with its maskinonge audj^bass fishing, lies about 10 M. to the S.E. This district was the headquarters of the Mississaga Indians, a branch of the Ojibbeways. From Petekborougu to Haliburton, 78 M., Grand Tnmk Railway in 5 hrs. This line diverges to the right at (23 M.) Lindsay from another line g'dng on to Lake Simcoe (p. 160). aud runs to the N. to (78 M.) Hal- ibnrton, a favourite shooting and fishing resort. The district now traversed is fertile and highly cultivated. Near (280 M.) Manvers we cross a branch of the G.T.R. 301 M. Myrtle, near Lake Scugog, is the junction of lines to Whithy (p. 153), Port Perry., Manilla, etc. 318 M. Locust Hill; 333 M. Leaside Junction. 338 M. Toronto, see R. 33. 1 52 Route 32. BELLEVILr.E. b. Vift, Grand Trunk Kailway. 333 31. Railway in lU'^-l"? lirs. (fares as above). Tlii.s line skirts the St. Lwrrence an. 146 M. Lansdoime. Eeyond (loo M.) Gananoque Junction, for a short line to (4 M.) (janano^ue (p. 185), we cross a stream, and at (169 M.) liideau we cross the mouth of the Rideau Canal (see p. 148) A little farther on we see Kingston (p. 184), 2-3 M. to the left, with its churrh-spires, martello tower, college, fort, etc. 172 M. Kingston Junction, for a short line to (3 M.) Kingston. Farther on , the line again bends inland. We cross a pretty little river in entering (198 M.) Napanee, a grain-trading town with 3434 inhab., embosomed in trees. 203 M. Deseronto Junction, for a short line to (6 M.) Deseronto, a flour and lumber trading town (3338 inhab.), at the end of the beautiful *Bay of Quinte, an arm of Lake Ontario (comp. p. 184). 213 M. Shannonville. — 220 M. Belleville (^Queen's, $2; Kyle Ho.; Anglo-American, $11/2)? a busy industrial city of 9914 inhab., on the N. shore of the Bay of Quinte, of which we have views to the left farther on. It is the junction of a line running to the^. Xq Ivanhoe (p. 151), Madoc (27 M.), etc. — 232 M. Trenton {St. Lawrence Hall, $2), at the mouth of the wide and picturesque Trent, the outlet of Rice Lake (p. 151), and near the W. end of the Bay of Quinte', is a town of 4364 inhab. and the junction of the Central Ontario Railway, running to the left to (30 M.) Picton and to the right to (7i M.) Coe Hill and other mining stations. Picton {Royal, $2; Queeirt, $ I'/a-Sj, a town of 3287 inhab., lies at the W. end of the Prince Edward Feninstila, which encloses the above-mentioned Bay of Quinte. The picturesque and varied shores of the peninsula may be visited by steamer. In the highest part of it is the 'Lake of the Mountain, with no known affluent. At Big Sandy Bay are curious white Sand-Banks, which are encroaching on the land at the rate of 150 ft. every winter. 'The B __^^ I ) / Le.nrto .1: 1 kS"; Purtuair ^^'^ St. \^ <^ - I e^ 1 B e rr i^ i ! ; .vAv. i -Hail. 1' , = 1- V5 r I a t\ c r ^^V-M?--« Shiaaum "•^•^ ft I ^t^ V, k^ >: V '^ ^ v> t^. ■«: = ti - -. ^. J « "^ V •^''- — Ji. -*j — f^ — 1 i-^ 5 *» I Ord St. ^ r- -, X .. 1' n; "^ w i, h^ lu iffTH-W ^ ^ y t. .^^ ^ N ^ i^ ft. <5 r' '^ »- •> (7r.?Jl ■•~S-(Ls i-uu ■'''I . I ^ 6 ^ m' •acker hTn,fa7.7^-'=.VtN t- ^^f^ v ^ -('(illi'ir'> CjxiarJi: 1. Academy ijf Mujiic. D.3 'l.Jiu-ol><:\t>t4i ■Sp^''>.*^t. rT if^'tf^ •4. ^^.'■m' SfMSt- n7wtt,v:u;r^'it'^f-^y^'^^ ff.l Inst. -TrttrjlOTS ,vf .yprirp '\.f(. V*"*^» b^r e«- a "^ tfnr I CaUiedj-kXcrf 1^ v 1 W ^ '-Wilt HTl^ ~<"anaJ'.""fusrr ewa i.Tf, TTU I F r o n ^,^-L»T^c,^J^Hfi-5iojm-eal j^ niVYLpTr^ ^.r//; '■'/- H A R B U R -^ Royal Caiiadi.iii Yarit Chih . 151 ), Lindsay (j^. 151), and other points; and a >teamerpliesdaily to iioc/ieijfer (see Baedeker's United States). — 280 M. Newcastle; 290 M. Boirmanville ('d'Hl inhab.); 299 M, Oshawa (4006 inhab.). — 303 M. Whitby {276G inhab.) is the junction of a line to (IO72 M. ) Myrtle (p. 151) and (33 M.) Manilla (for Lindsay and Haliburton). — 310 M. Pickering, on a small lake; 310 M. Port Union; 324 M. Scarborough Junction; 3-8 M. York; 331 M. iJon. within the city limits of Toronto. 333 M. Toronto, see ii, 33. 33. Toronto. Arrival. The Union Railitay Station (PI. D, 3), which is inconveniently small ft)r the fi:rowing traffic and urgently requires to he superseded by a more commodious building, lies on the lake-front, within a stone's throw of the I'jading hotels. The Steamloat Wharves are at the foot of Ytmge St. (PI. E, 4l. — Hetel Omnibuses (2.jc.) and Cabs (see below) meet the trains and steamers, but are L irdly necess iry for unencumbered tourists. Baggage mav be sent to the hotels by the transfer agents or the hotel poriei'S. "Hotels. 'Queen's (I'l. a; D, 3), Front St., $3-4; Kossvn House (PMs D, 3), York St.. well spoken of $ 01/2-31/2; Palmkr House (P1. c; I), 3), cor. of York St. and King St., $2-2V2; Walkek House (Pl. d; D, 3j, cor. of Vork St. and Front St., $ 2-21/2; Aklixgtun (Pi. e; 1>, 3j, cor. of King St. and John St., $2i;2-3; .Metrocole (Pl.f; D, 3), cor. of King St. and York St., $2; Kensington (Pl. g; L>, 3), cor. of King St. and York St., R. 5Uc. to $ ii/.-. Restaurants. 'H>66, cor. of Yonge and Melinda Sts. ; ■ McConkei/, 27 King St. West; Tovonto Coffee Ilofise ^ 78 King St. East; English Chop House, 3U King St. We.^t; Coleman ■, Hi King St. West; Nusinith's Lunch Shoj)S^ 51 King St. E., 51 King St. W., 152 Yonge St.. and 68 .Jarvis St. Cabs. For cab-hiring purposes the city is divided into three districts, the first bounded by Bathtirst.^ Bloor^ and Sumach Sts., the second by Dnf- ferin St., the N. City Limits, and Pape Avenue, the third by the Municipal Limits. Cab within Division I, with one or two horses. oUc. for 1-2 pers., each pers. addit. 25 c.; within Div. II, 75 e. and 25 c.; within l)iv. Ill, $1, 2oc. Per hour, with two horses, 1-4 pers $1; with one horse, 1-3 pers., 75c. Fares fifty per cent higher in winter (Nov. -AprilJ from 9 p.m. to 6 a.m. and in summer from midnight to 6 a.m. Ordinary baggage free. Tramways (horse and electric) traverse the principal .streets and reach various suburban points (fare 5c.), carrying 80,000 or 90,0(X) passengers daily. — Small Steamers ply at frequent intervals to the Island (p. 15S), the ffum- ber (p. 159), Long Branch and Lor7ie Park, Victoria Park (p. 159), etc. Larger boats ply to Havtilton (p. 16S), to Niajara-on-tJie-Lake and Lewiston (comp. p. 167), to Port Dalhousie (p. 170) and St. Catharine's (p. 169), etc. The steamer for Kingston, the St. Lawrence, and Montreal (see B. 40) leaves Geddes Wharf (Pl. E, 4) every afternoon about 2 o'clock. — Some of the suburbs and out-lying di-^tricts are conveniently reached by the frequent trains of the Beit-Line liailway. 1 54 Route 33. TORONTO. Situation. Places of Amusement. Grand Opera House (PI. E. 3), Toronto Opera House (Pl.D, E, 3), Adelaide St. West; Jacobs d- Sparrow^s Opera House (PI, 2; l-:,3), Adelaide St. West; Academy of Music (PI. 1; D, 3), 165 King St. West; ifoores Musee (Vi. E,o), 93 Yonge St. ; Massey Music Hall., see p. 15() ; Pavilion, in the Horticultural Gardens (PI. K, 2; good concerts), cor. Gerrard ;ind Sherbourne St?.; Cycloramu (PI. D. 3), Front St. West. — Lacrosse Grounds, at Rosedale (p. 159); Baseball Grounds (PI. 0,3), (^^iieen St. East; liacecourae at Victoria Park, to the E. of the city; Cricket Ground, on Uni- versity Lawn. — Rowing and Sailing are carried on with great ardour in Toronto Bay and the Humber. Among the chief clubs are the Royal Ca- nadian Yacht Club, the Toronto, Argonaut , Bayside , and Leslieville Rowing Clubs, and the Cance Club. In winter Ice-Boating is practised. Clubs. National (PI. D, 3), 98 Bay St. ; Toronto (PI. D, 3), 107 Welling- ton St. West; Albany (PI. 5; E, 3). 34 Colborne St. ; Ontario Reform Club (PI. 6; E, 3), 8 Adelaide St. East; Lieder-Kranz- Halle ((merman Club), 255 Richmond St. . with summer-premisea on the Island (p. 15S) ; Athenaeum , near the Metropolitan Methodist Church (p. 156). — Art Exhibitions at the rooms of the Ontario Society of Artists. 173 King St. West, and at the Normal School (p. 156). Post Office (PI. E, 3), Adelaide .Street East (open 7-7). United States Consul, /. W. Cojypinger, Mail Building, 106 Bay St. — German Consul-General, Samuel Nordheimer, lo King St. East. — French Vice-Consul, A. Fulton, 18 Court St. Toronto (250-350 ft. above sea-level), the 'Queen City", the capital of Ontario and the second city of Canada, lies on the N. shore of Lake Ontario, in a large and sheltered bay between the rivers Don and Humher. The bay is formed by a narrow sandy island (see p. 158), about 6 M. long, enclosing a fine harbour 31/2 sq. M. in extent, with a narrow entrance at the W. end and a cut on the S.E. side. The city extends along the lake-front for about 8 M., and its site slopes grad- ually upwards to an ancient lake-margin 3 M. inland. The streets are laid out at right angles to each other, and the buildings are generally substantial and often handsome. Yonge Street, running to the N. from the water's edge and extending under the same name to Lake Simcoe (p. 160), 40 m. distant, divides the city into an E. and W. half. The chief business-streets are Yonge St., King Street, Wellington Street, and Front Street, the last three running parallel with the lake-front. The fashionable residence-streets are Jarvis Street (pretty lawns and gardens) and Sherbourne Street, to the E., and St. George Street, to the W. Rosedale (p. 159) is rapidly becoming a line residential quarter, &nd Bloor Street contains some handsome dwellings. In 1891 Toronto contained 181,220 inhab., mainly Protestants of British stock. History. The name Toronto ('place of meeting') is flrst heard of as applied in the 17lh cent, to the countij- of the Hurons, between Lake Simcoe and Lake Huron, but was afterwards naturally enough tr^'nsferred to Fort Rouille, a small French trading-post erected about 17 ) at the starting-point of the river and portage route from Lake Ontario to the Toronto district (site marked V»y a pillar in , commerci;iily. relig- iously, and educationally as well as poliiically, and has substcTiitial grounus for the claim it sometimes makes of being the 'Boston of (Janada\ To- ronto contains about one church lor every lUOU inhab. and Sunday is very strictly observed, the tramways c^>asing to run, cabs beiuf^ withdrawn from the streets, and saloons closing. — Comp. 'Toronto of Old", by Dr. froducts, stoves, leather, tlour, whiskey, and beer, and have a total annual value of about $ 45,(JtXJ,' W. The agricultural machinery works of Mmsey d- Harris and the distillery of Gooderham & Worts are widely known. The assessed value of taxable property in Toronto is $151,000,000. Ontario, the province of which Toronto is the capital, is the richest and most populous in the Dominion, containing (ib91) 2,114,321 inhab. or about 44 per cent of the total population of Canada. lu size it ranks next to Quebec , with an extreme length of fully lOOO M., a breadth of 700 M., and an area of 222,UOO sq. M. It is bounded by Hudson Bay on the N., X.E. Territory and t^uebec on the >^.E. and E., the St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes on the S.E., S., and 8.W., and Manitoba and Keewatin on the W. and N.W. Its surface and soil display a great variety of con- figuration and quality, but a large propcjrtion of tiie province is suitable for agriculture, which forms the chief occupation of its people. The richest, most thickly peopled, and most highly cultivated part of the pro- vince is the so-called Peninsula of Ontario (p. 164). The chief crops are wheat, barley, oats, Indian corn, turnips, and potatoes, while fruit-grow- ing, stock-raising, and dairy-farming are also successfully prosecuted. The huge and valuable forests make lumbering one of the chief industries. The minerals include silver, copper, iron, nickel (see p. 190), gypsum, phosphates, marble, salt, natural gas, and petroleum (p. 166). Tiie long coast-line of the Great Lakes (ca. 1700 31.) allords excellent shipping facil- ities and has fostered an important trade. Many manufactures are also carried on, and the lake-hsheries are by no means inconsiderable. — On- tario was largely founded by the United Empire Loyalists after 1776 (comp. p. 154). It became a separate province, under the name of Upper Canada, in 1791; was re-united with Quebec in 1841; and once more be- came an independent province, with its present name, in 1867. Taking the Union Station (PI. D, 3) as the starting-point for our tour of the city, we may first follow Front .Street (PI. C-G, 3), with its substantial warehouses and the Queen^s Hotel (p. lo3), to the K. to its junction with Yongk Strket, where stand the .Banfc of Montreal (PI. E, 3) and the Board of Tradt (PI. 4; E, 3), both to the left. To the right rises the Custom House (Pl.E, 3). in an Italian style, and behind this, at the lake-end of Yonge St., is the (iistoms Warehouse. Following Youge St. to the left, we cross Wellington St., with the Bank of British North America (rigltt) , ]»ass the Office of the Globe (PI. E, 3}, one of the chief organs of Canadian Liberalism (1.; at the corner of Melinda St. ), and >soon reach King Street (PI. A-G, 3), the crossing of these two busy thoroughfares forming the practical centre of the city. In King St., a little to the right (E.) of iu junction with i^6 Route 33. TORONTO. St. James's Cathedral. Yonge St., stanflf^ St. James's Cathedial (Fl. E. 3), a large Farly Jliiglish building, uith some iiionimients and good stained-glass windows (Sun. services at 1 1 and 7; Wed., 8 p.m.). The spire, 316 ft. high, contains a chime of bells and an elaborate clock (view; adm. to tower 10 c.) and was for some time the highest in America. From VoKge St., a little to the N. nf King St., the Vonge St. Arcade (!•]. K, 3j luus thrmj^^h \o VictDria St. — In Temperance St., leading to the left from Yunge St., is the Ontario Veterinary College (PI. 3; ii.^ o), largely attended by students from all parts of Canada and the United States. In King St., a little farther on, is the St. Lawrence Ilall or Market (PI. E, 8), to the 8. of which, in Front St., is the Old City Hull (PI. E, 3). In the section of King St. between Vonge St. and Bay St. are thi JHwiuiiig Arcade and the handsome new building of the Canad i Life Assuvan.:e Co. (PI. 8^ l>!ii5J5 while at the corner of King 8t. and Cay St. stands the Offic of the Toronto Mail (PI. 1), 3j. The Bank of Commerce is at the corner of King St. aid Jordan St. We now follow Church Strket (PI. K. 1-3) to the N., crossing Adelaide St. J'^ast, at the corner of wliich (right) i> the excellent Free Fuhlic Library (PI. E, 3), wich 8U,U00 vols, and an excellent reference department Connected with it are four Branch Libraries. In Adelaide St., a little to tlie W., stands the Post Office (Pi. E, 3). — In Richmond St., between Yonge St. and Churcli St., are the huge red Confederation Life Ass^ociation Building and tlie Canadi'>n InUittite (PI. E, 3), with a scientific library and reading-room and ' Archieological Collections of great value and interest. lu the square enclosed by Church, Adelaide, Bond, and Shuter Sts. stands the Metropolitan Methodist Churcli (PI. E, 3) , with its square tower and numerous pinna des. It contains a huge organ with 53 stops and 3315 pipes. On the opposite side of Shuter St. is the K. C. Catliedral of St. Michael (1*1. E,2), with its graceful spire, stained-glass windows, and interior polychrome decoration. To the W. , at the corner of Shuter and Victoria Sts. , is the large Massey Music Hall (PI. E, 2), for which Mr. H. A. Massey presented the city with S 100,000. Farther out. Church St. passes the large *N<»rmal and Model Schools (PI. E, 2), which stand in pleasant grounds and inciude a library, an edu- cational museum, a lecture-hull, and a gallery of art, with copies of the old masters, sculptures, engravings, models of Egyptian and Assyrian antiquities, views illustrating Canadian history, etc. (open, free, 9-5; cata- logue '25c.). Tliey are attended by about 6U0 students. In front is a bronze Statue of Dr. JRyerson (bS(.'3-82j. the founder of the educational system of Ontario, by H. MacCarthy. The buildings also cont-iiii the offices ol the Provincial Department of Education. Ill the meantime we follow Queen Street (PI. x\-G,3) towards the W. To the right, facing the end of Bay St., stands the new City Hall and Court House (PI. D, E,3), a huge, unfinished pile in a modern Romanesque ('Kichardsonian) style, by Lennox, with a lofty tower. Farther on, on the same side, between Chestnut St. and College Ave., is *Osgoode Hall (PI. I), 3), the seat of the Superior Courts of On- tario, a bull ling in the Italian lienaissance style, erected ataco^tof $300,000 and named after the flr>t Chief Justice of Upper Canada. It contains an extensive legal library and is the ^eat of the Law School. ♦CobLEGE Avenue (PI. D, 2, 3), with its double row of elms and chestnuts, leads hence to (2/3 M.) *Queen'8 Park (PI. D, 1), a wooded Vniveraity. TORONTO. 33, Route. 157 tract 40 acres in extent, originally belonsing to the Toronto Univer- sity but now reserved as apublicpleasure-pround. The large red build- ings to the rifrht, in College Avenue, are the Armouries fPl. D, 2\ erected by the Domii'ion Government for the Toronto militia. At the S. end of the park stand the massive new buildiniiis of the Provincial Parliament (PI. D, 1). erected in 1888-92 at a cost of about $1,500,000. They are in a 'neo-Gre. 155\ — To the W, of the park aie the extensive buildings of the *University of Toronto (PI. D. 1), forming, perhaps, the finest ensemble of college architecture in the W. hemisphere. The main building, or L'niversity College, in the Norman style, with a massive central tower, was finished in 1859. at a cost of $500,000 (architects. Cumberland is- cojudion College. London (Ont.). McMaster Hall (PI. r». 1). a tasteful 1 uildiug in 1 rick :nd stone, to the K. of the p irk. facing B'toor St.. belongs to an independent Baptist univer- sity, with f; cultics of arts fnd theology. I Making a fresh sta?.'t from the Union Station (PI. I), 31 and ascend- ing SiMcoK Street (F1. P, 2, 8), we see to the left (entr. from Front St.) the Old Parliament Building (PI. 1>, 3). On the same side, beyond Wellington St., is Government Bouse (Pl.D, 3), the residence 158 Route 33. TORONTO. High Park. of the Lieutenant-Governor, situated in pleasant *Grounds (admis- sion on written application to the A. D. C. in waiting). To the right, at the corner of King St. , is the Presbyterian *Church of St. Andreir (PI. D, 3), in a modified Norman style. To the left, beyond King St., in shady grounds, staml the oM buildings of Upper Canada College {Vl. I), 3; see belowl. On reaching Queen Street West (PI. C, 3), we may turn to the left and in a few minutes come to John Street, which leads to tlie right to The Grange (PI. D, 2), an old Colonial mansion occupied by Professor (rolduun Smith. — About 1' 4M. farther along Queen St., to the right, is Trinity College (PI. B, 3), an Anglican university founded by Bishop Strachan in 1851 , when University College was secularized, with faculties of arts, medicine, law, and theology ( 300 students"). The building is in the late-Gothic style and stands in pleasant grounds. — A little farther on , to the left, is the hug.' Provincial Lunatic Asylnm ( PI. A, 3) , with 40 acres of ground and accommodation for 700 patients. Queen St. ends, ll/o M. farther on, at High Park, a well-wooded tract of 350 acres, much frequented by holiday-makers. The mauso- leum of the donor, Mr. J. G. Howard (d. 1890), is enclosed by part of the old railing that formerly surrounded St. Paul's Cathe- dral, London. The park is bounded on the W. by the Humher Rive? (p. 1541, from the mouth of which a ferry-steamer plies to Yonge St. Wharf (Pi. K, 4). At no ^re;it distance from the Lnnntic Asj^lum .ire tbe Mercer Reform- atory (PI. A, S). the Central Prison (Pi. A, 3j, and tiie Exhihiticn Grounds (PI. A, 4: fair in Sept.). By the waters edL^e. to the S.E. of the last, is tbe New Fort (PI. A, 4), connected by a road with the Old Fort (PI. B, 4), netrcr the centre of the town. In tlie cupture of the latter in 1813 the American leader, Oen. Pike, was ki'ied. The Horticultural Gardens (PI. E, 2 ; open till dark), a littie to the N. E. of the Normal School (p. 156), contain large con- servatories and the Paviuon Music Hall (p. 154), a favourite resort for bails and high-class concerts (3000 seats). To the W. lies the Toronto Collegiate Insiitute (PI. E, 2), the oldest of the secondary schocls of Ontario. [There are two other schools of siniilar rank in the city, one in Harbord St. and one in Jameson Ave.]. Among the other places of greater or less interest in Toronto may be mentioned the imposing new buildings of the XTpper Canada College (beyond PI. D, 1), a higii-class school for boys (^Yiew from the tower) , the General Hospital (PI. F, 2) ; the Home for Incurables (beyond PI. A, 3; good view ft'om tower); and the new St. Alhan's Cathedral (bey. PI. C, 11, of which the chancel only has been completed. The Island (PI. C-F, f\). which shelters the li. r1 our (see p. ir'4"), is the Marpate or Conev Isl; nd of Toronto and is frequented in summer by large crowds (ferries from Church St., Yoiige St., York St., and Brock St., plying to Hanlan's Point, : t the W. end, i nd to Island Pork, in the centre ; return f; re 10 c). I. ike Coney Island, it is r.oihiri^ but a large sand-bank, frinj:ed with flimtiy summei-cottayis and studded withi.merry-go-iounds, bi.nd- ALLANDALE. :i4. Route. 159 stands, dancinf^i-pavilions, and the other paraphernalia of a Cockney Par- adise. At the S.W. corner is a Lighthouse, and at the E. end are the Wiman Baths. In the middle is one of the cliib-houses of the Royal Can- adian Yocht Club. Thf lioiel at Ilnnlan's Point is owned by Edward Hanlan, at one time champion sculler of the world. Perhaps the pleasautest short drive from Toront(t is that across the bridge ovor the ' Ravitte of th,t Don {Riverdale Park; PI. F, G, 1), on the X.E. side of the town, to tlie pretty suburb of Rosedale. where a lac- rosse match is szoncr. lly goin;: en on Sat. in s'lmmer (comp. p. 154). In the vicinity are three i)ictiires(iue Cemcttrieg. — Excursions may also be made by steamer to Lome Park :ind Long Branch, lying beyond the Humber ip. loi), and to Victoria I'nrk (p. laiJ). From Toronto to namilton , Niagara. ,ind Buffalo., see K. 36; to Montreal., see KR. 3'^, iO-, to Detroit., see R. 35. 34. From Toronto to North Bay. Muskoka District. 227 M. Grand Tklnk Railway in S"/- hrs. (fare $ GSo: sleeper $2). This line affords the only access to the beautiful Muskoka Lake District (see p. 162). Throutrh-carriages run to J/msAoAt'^; WTjar/ (p. 161 ; f;. re $3.40, sleeper S2, parlour-car o() c); and return-tickets are issued at reduced rates to all the principal points on the lakes (to Beaumaris and back S 5.5(>, all round the Muskoka Lakes $ 7.50, etc.). Similar tickets are issued at Hamil- ton, London, Niagara, Port Huron, and Detroit, Toronto, see R. 33. The line runs to^vards the \V. (view of the Lunatic A.sylum to the right and Home for Incurables to tlie left), then turns to the N. and quits the city precincts at (4^ >j M.) Daven- port. To the left is the valley of the Humber (p. 154). About 3 M. beyond (23 M.) King we cross the watershed between Lake " Ontario and. Huron (1000 ft. obove sea-level). The Vale of Aurora., through which we now pass, recalls an P^nglish landscape. 30 M. Aurora (1743 inhab.) ; 34' 3 M. Newmarket, A\ath 2143 inhab. and some niaiiufactories. To the right, a little farther on, are the headwaters of the Holland River, part of the old canoe and portage route from Toronto to Lake Simcoe (comp. p. 154). — 38 M. Holland Landing., a place of some importance in the pre-railway days. On the village- green (not visible from the train) is a large anchor, brought from England and destined for service on the Great Lakes , but stranded here owing to the declaration of peace uetween Great Britain and the United States (1815). — We cross the Holland River at (42 M.) Bradford (Hotel), frequented by sportsmen and anglers (maskinonge, etc.). — At (52 M.) Lefroy we have our first view (right) of Lake Simcoe (jp. 160). Roach's Point, seen across the narrow S. arm of the lake (ferry), is a favourite summer and fishing resort. 63 M. Allandale (Rail. Restaurant), situated at the end of Kem- penfeldt Bay, the narrow W. arm of Lake Simcoe, is the junction of lines to (95 M.) Hamilton (p. 168). Penetang (30 M.), and (52 M.) Meaford. The monument in the station-garden commemorates Col, Cixmlerland, long General Manager of the N. & N.W. Railway. The line to Jleafonl (I aul's Hotel, ^V/2; 19£9 inhab.), i-n Nottawasaya Bay, the 8. comp; limtnt ot Geergiin lay (p. 181), passts (32V'j M) Colling- ■wood (Cintral, Glebe, $ I'/a), mother Nourishing lake-port, with 4940 in- hab., whence steamers ply to points of injptrliince on Georgian Bay, Lake Huron,^t!nd Lake Superior." 160 Route 34. BARRIE. From Toronto Fenetang or Pmetanguithent {"The Peiietangtiishene, $2), with 2110 in- hab., lies at th^ head of an inlet of Georgian Bay, 2Vj M. from Midland (see below). It W!i3 formerly the Canndian nav;il station on the Great Lakes but was dianumtled on the convention of mutual digtumament with the United States. It is now frequented :is a summer-resort. The Jesuit establishment here dates from lC3i. Steamers ply hence to points in the I'arry Arc/iipelajo^ etc. 64 M. Barrie (Queen's. $2; Barrle Ho.. ^Vo-^}, a tlonriphing little city and suinnier-re?ori . \^ ith r)5oO iiiliab. . is prettily situated on the N. side of Kempeiifeldt Bay. It is the starting-point of the Lake Simcoe steamer (see below). Lake Simcoe is a beautiful sheet of water, .bout 30 M. lonu ;ind 2G M. wide (if we measure up to the bends of the long narrow b-iys on the S. ;ind W.). It affords good boating ;ind fishing and has several pleasant summer-resorts and private residences on its banks. In this neighbourhood took place the chief events of the greit war between the Hurons and Iroquois, in which the former barely escaped extermination. A few Hurons still inhabit Serpent Island, near the S. end of the lake. At a later date the Mississaugas drove the Iroquois out of the district (comp. below). The steamer from Barrie calls at (9 M.) Big Bay Point (Hotel), at the junction of Kempenfeldt Bay with the main body of the lake, and then proceeds to the X., passing through the Narrows, to Orillia (see below). Beyond Barrie the railway skirts the W. shore of Lake Siracoe (views to the riirht) and reaches (86 M.) nrilUa (1000 ft.; Orillia Ho.. Russel Ho., $li/2-*2), a pleasant little town and summer-resort, with 4752 inhab. , situated at the head of Lake Couchiching (see below). It contains a small Town Park, in the grounds of the old Lunatic Asylum, while 2 M. off, on a point stretching out into the lake, is the attractive Couchiching Park. ^Lake Couchiching ('Lake of Many Winds'), about 14 M. long and 2-3 M. wide, is connected with Lake Simcoe by a narrow strait, crossed by the railway (see below). Stean)ers ply regularly from Orillia to Washago (see below). The lake atlbrds good fishing for bass, salmon-trout, and pickerel. From Orillia a branch-line runs to the N.W. to (32 M.) Midland, near Penetang, on Georgian Bay (steamers). — In the other direction this line runs to Beaverton, Lindsay, Peterborough, and Port Hope, and to Toronto via Scarborough Junction. As we leave Orillia, we see the large District Lmnatic Asylum to the right. The train crosses a swing-bridge over the 'Narrows' connecting Lakes Simcoe and Couchiching, passes (SSl/oM.) Atherley Junction, and runs along the E. side of Lake Couchiching. 92 M. Bama is ^he reservation of the last of the Ojibbeway Indians, the remnant of the tens of thousands that once occupied this district. To the E. of (94 M.) Longford lies Lake St. John. — 99 M. Washago (steamer, see above) lies at the foot of Lake Couchiching. The Severn, which here Issues from the lake and drains into Georgian Bay, is famous for its fishing and for the game on its banks. From (100 M.) Severn the canoeist can reach Gravenhurst (see p. 161) via the Severn, Sparrow Lake, etc. (canoes and guides, obtained at Rama or Orillia, $2 a day). — Beyond this point the limestone formations tlirough which we have been passing give place to red granite. Beyond to North Bay. GRAVENHURST. 34. Route. 161 (10(3 M.) Kilworthy we pass through the Granite Notch ami reach the Muskoka District (see p. 162). 1 1 1 M. Gravenhurst ( Wiridsor^ Alhion^ Caledonian^ $ 1 ['2), a vil- lage with 1848 iiihab., prettily situated at tlio foot of Muskoka Lake, is the chief gateway to the beautiful district described at pp. 16'2- 164. All neeiiful camp-supplies can be obtained here. — A short branch-line runs to the left to (^4 M.) Muskoka Wharf (comp. pp. 162, 159). — Beyond Gravenhurst the North Ray line diverges somewhat from Muskoka Lake, of which the railway traveller obtains no other Niew. — 121 M. Bracebridge [British Lion, Dominion, Queen'!*, $l-n 9), where we cro.-s the Muskoka River, is another gate- way to the Muskoka Region, the steamers ascending the river to this point (comp. p. 164). The fine '^South Falls of the Muskoka, abimt 3 M. from Bracobridge, descend 13() ft. in two leips. — Tlie Bigh Falls, 4 M. distant, are jilso wortli visiting. — The North Branch Falls, near the town, have been spoiled by lumber-mills. Farther on, the river flows to our right. Good roads lead from (135 M.) Utterson to (ca. 5 M.) Skeleton Lake and Three Mile Lake (p. 163). Mary Lake lies 2i/o M. to the E. — Passing the tiny Round Lake (1.), we reach (146 M.) HuntsviUe (Lake View IIo. . Dominion, $1^/2-^)., situated between Lake Vernon (1.) and Fairy Lake (v.), two of the chain of lakes on the Muskoka River. Canoeists can make pleasant trips in each direction. — Near (150 M.) Melissa we cross the N. brancli of the Muskoka. 155 M. Novar. In approaching (166 M.) Katrine, another pleasant centre, we cross the -S'. Maganeta- wan River. 171 M. Burk'sFaUs {Burk Ho.,%1', Cataract Ho., %i^k). a small village on the N. bank of the Maganetawan, a little way below the junction of its N. and S. branches, is the starting-point of the interesting trip down the Maganetawan , which sportsmen will find especially remunerative. A small steamer descends the Maganetawan to (15 M.) Maganetawan (Fitzer's, Osborn's, $1), on Lalce Cf^cefce (1050 ft.), and "to Port Huron (Hotel) and (40 M.) Ahmic Harbor (Cliffbour-ie Ho., $1). on Lake Ahmic (return- ticket from Toronto to this point $ ),90). The canoeist may go on (with gnide ; numerous portages) all the w. y to Port Byng , 55 M. farther on, on Georgi m Bay, or he may explore thb various affluents and ramifications of the Maganetawan. The scenery is pictui'esque, and the opportunities for fishing and shooting (deer, etc.) are excellent. The canoeist should, of course, be prepared to camp out at night, though he may occasionally find quarters in a farm-house. From Byng Inlet steamers ply to Parry Sound, Penetang (p. 1{)0), etc. About 23 M. to the E. of Burk's Falls lies Algonquin Park, a pictur- esque tract of rock, forest, and water set apart by the Government of Ontario in 1893 for the preservation of game and forests and as a public pleasure and health resort. It lies on the watershed between the Ottawa and Georgian Bay and conaprises an area of 1466 sq. 31., with an average length (from N. to S.) of 40 M. and an average breadth of 36 M. Its fine timber includes white and red pine, black birch, maple, hemlock, iron- wood, beech, black ash, basswood, cedar, spruce, tamarack, and alder, while animated nature is represented by the moose (rare) , deer, beaver, bear, wolf, mink, otter, martin, musk-rat, partridge, duck, bass, whitefish, Baedekee's Canada. 11 162 Route 34. BEAUMARIS. From Toronto I»ike, chuli, etc. The park is r,t present a little oat of the track of the ordinary tourist, but. when tlie railway mentioned at \>. 143 is completed, it will probably become a popular resort. Our line cortirmes to run towards the N. 183 M. Sundridye (1115 ft.), on Stony Lake (r.). Beyond (188 M.) South River (1180 ft.; Hotel), the highest point on the railway, we cross that stream , which . in spite of its name . flows toward the N. to Lake Nipissiiiff. 199 M. Trout Creek. 13 M. from the N.W. corner of Al- gonquin Park (see aliovfi) ; 207 M. Powassrm; 219^/2 M. Callander (Hotels), on the S.E. bay of Lake Mpi^isiny (p. 189). At (223 M.) Nipissiny Junction wo join the C.P.U. (IJ. 41). 227 M. North Bay, see p. 189. The so-called *Muskoka Lake Region, in the highlands of On- tario, o^'cnpies, in its widest sense, an area of about 10,000 sq. M., between Georgian Bay (Lake Huron) on the W., Lake Nipissing on the N., and Lake Simcoe on the S., with a somewhat indefinite boundary-line on the E. Within this district, which has a mean altitude above the sea of about 800 ft. (200 ft. above Lake Huron), there are, perhaps, 800-1000 lakes and ponds, connected by in- numerable streams. The Muskoka District proper includes the three connected lakes described below: Muskoka, Rosseau. and Joseph. The scenery of Lakes Muskoka, Rosseau. and Joseph is full of variety and charm , and the air is pure and bracini;. About 4U0 islets are scat- tered ihroughout the three lakes. Excellent fishing for bass, pickerel, maskinonge, and salmon-trout is enjoyed in the lakes themselves or in adjacent waters, while the forests on their banks cont.iin deer, grouse, and many other kinds of game (game-laws, see p. lix). The facilities for boating, canoeing, and bathing are ample. Kumerous small hotels and boarding-houses afford fair accommodation at moderate prices (see belo^"). They are often crowded in summer, so that it is advisable to secure rooms in advance. The services of a good guide for fishing or sporting expeditions cost about $2 a day ; a man or boy to row may be obtained for $ I-IV2. Steamers ply regularly in summer from Muskoka }Vhai'/ (p. 161) to the ends of Lakes Kosseau and Joseph, calling at intermediate points; another runs from BracebrkJge to Bala (p. 164: comp. below). Only the regular landings are mentioned below. L From Muskoka Wharf to Rosseau, at the head of Lake Rosseau, 33 \I., Steamer in 43/4 hrs. (fare $1 ; D. 40c.). — Mus- koka Wharf (ji. 161) lies at the end of the narrow S. bay of *Mus- koka Lake (800 ft. ), the southernmost and largest ( 20 M. long, 2-8 M. wide) of the three lakes. The steamer starts at present at about 2.45 p.m., on the arrival of the express from Toronto (comp. p. 160), and steers along the E. side of the lake, passing between two large islands and the mouth of the Muskoka River (p.l61). Numer- ous summer cottages and camps sprinkle both mainland and islands. 13 m. (r.) Beaumaris (Hotel, $1V2"2), on Tondem Island, separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. Opposite , on the mainland, at Milford Bay, is Stroud's Hotel ($1.50). The steamer now steers into Indian River, connecting Lake Muskoka to North Bay. POUT rorKBURN. Si.Bnvte. 163 with Lake Kosseau. On the loft lies (21 M.) PortCarling (Stratton Ho.^ Interltken Ho., $l-/2-'2), the most central village on the three lakt's and called at by all the steamers. It has three churches and stores where all kinds of supplies may be obtained. We now pass throngh the looks connetting: the two lakes and enter *Lake Ros- seau (806 ft.), which is 12 M. long and 1-6 M. wide. Like its companions, it is dotted with innumerable islands. Our first call is at (24 M.) Winderwere (Windermere Ho., Fife Ho., $1" 4-IV.2), on the E. bank, with a church, a mechanic institute, a library, and a group of cottages erected by the Windermere Club. A little fartlier on Wf pass the moutli of the Dee (r.), which canoeists may ascend to (2 M.) Three Mile Lake (p. Ifil). We then thread tlie narrow strait between Tobin Island and the mainland and pass Juddha'-en (1. ; Morinns Ho., $1). Opposite (r.) opens SkelePn Bay, into tlie head of which flows the Skeleton R'ver, the outlet of (4 M. 1 Skeleton Lake (p. 161). .Fust before reaching Rossiau tlie sti-am^r stops at the *Maj'lehurst Hotel ($2), on the left bank, affording the best quarters for summer-visitors at this end of the lake. — - 33 M. Rosseau (Monteith Uo., commercial, $11/2-2), a small village, much resorted to by summer visitors and anglers. A charming excursion may be made up the *Shndoir Rv er , which enters the bay here and is so called from its magical reflections (best in autumn). The Bridal Veil Falls, on an affluent of the Shadow River, are picturesque. Coaches run from Rosseau to (7 M. ) Port Cockburn (see below) and (25 M. ) Parry Sound (p. 164). II. From Muskoka Wharf to Port Cockburx, at the head of Lake Joseph, 48 M., Steamer in 51/4 hrs. (fare $ 1.25; D. 40 c.). As far as (21 M.) Port Carting this route coincides with that above described. On leaving the Indian liiver, the Lake Joseph steamer turns to the left and steers through Venetia, the island-dotted S. part of Lake Rosseau. 23 M. Ferndale Home ($1-1 VV), on an inlet to the left. We then cross to (26 M.) Cleveland's (Cleveland's, Paign- ton Ho., $1-1*2), on the opposite shore, whence we turn to the S. again to (28 M.) Gregory, at the mouth of the Joseph River, one of the channels leading to Lake Joseph. The steamer, however, crosses to (30 M.) PortSandfield {Prospect Ho., $ IV-j-'^); on a short canal made to improve the navigation between Lake Muskoka and *Lake Joseph (80U ft.l, 14 M. long and V2-3^'2 M. wide. The tlrst stops made here are (33 M.^ Redwood and (36 M.) HammiCs Point (HammiFs Hotel, $1-1' 2) 1 ^^^ latter dividing the main lake from Foot's Bay and Bass J^ake. The steamer then steers up the middle of the lake to (39 M.l the island of Yoho , beyond which it calls at the (43m.) Stanley House ($ 11/9-2), on the E. bank. [To the N.E. of Yoho lies Portage Lake, connected with Lake Joseph and leading by easy portage to Crane Lake.] — 48 M. Port Cockburn (Summit Ho., $2), at the head of Lake Joseph, is an excellent centre for anglers, being within easy reach of innumerablt small lakes and 11* 1 64 Route 35. GUELPH. From Toronto streams. A stage-coach runs hence daily in summer to (18 M.) Perry Sound (Belvilere Hotel, $1V2"'2V2)? connecting therewith the North Shore Navigation Co.'s steamers on Georgian Bay (see p. 180). A stage also rims hence to (7 M.) Rosseau (p. 163). Another charming point on Lake Joseph, c illed at occasion.illy by the regular steamers, is Craigie Lea (Hotel, ^i^J2-2). on the E. bank, at the entrance to the pretty Little T,ake Joseph. III. From Bracebridge to Bala, 21 M., steamer twice daily In 2 hrs. (fare 61' c). From Bracebridge (see p. 161) the steamer de- scends the Muskoka River^ passing Alport (r.), to (6 M. ) Maskoka Lake. Here it turns to the N. and calls at f 12M.) Beaumaris (p. 162), where it connects with the Lake Joseph and Lake Rosseau boats. We tlien cross the lake towards theW.. calling at (16 M.) Mortimer's Point. ~ 21 M. Bala (^Curries Hotel, Board's Hotel, $ I-IV2; Brigh- ton Beach Hotel, im the opposite side of the bay, $11/2)5 ^^^ termin- us of this route, lies on the E. bank of Lake Muskoka, at the out- flow of the Musquash River, which carries the waters of the Muskoka lakes to Georgian Bay. Just after leaving the lake the river forms a fall 20-25 ft. liigh, below which it divides into two branches, that to the right taking the name of Moon RiKcr. Good fishing is obtained in both branches and in many small lal;ps near Bala. 35. From Toronto to Detroit. a. Via. Grand Trunk Railway. 230 M. Railway in 6-S hrs. (fare §6.60; sleeper $2, parlour-car $1). From Montreal to Detroit by this route in 20 hrs. (fare $ 15; sleeper $3.50). Through-cars also run by this route from Montreal (24 hrs.) and from Toronto (15 hrs.) to Chicago (fares $18, $ 12.45; sleeper $5, $3). Tickets by this line are also available via Hamiltor (comp. B. 37 b). — Trunks checked through to points in the United States are examined by the custom-house officers on arrival or departure; hand-baggage is examined in crossing the St. Clair River. This line traverses the Peninsula of Ontario, between Lake Erie and Lake Huron, a district of great fertility but of little interest to the tourist. Toronto, see R. 33. The train traverses the S.W. part of the town, passing the suburban stations of (2 M.) North Parkdale (p. 165) and (5 M.) Carlton, and for s ;me time runs parallel with the C.P.R. Beyond (8 M.) Weston we cross a stream. 21 M. Brampton (3252 in- hab.). We cross the Credit River before reaching (26 M.) Georgetotcn (1500 inhab.), wliere we cross the line running to the N. from Hamilton to Beeton Junction (see p. 169). Orchards and hop-fields are passed. At (41 M.) Rocku^ood we bend to the left (S.W.). — 48 M. Guelph [Royal, Wellington, $ IV'2)? a flourishing little city with 10,339 inhab., manufactures organs, pianos, sewing-machines, and carriage gear. It is well known for its Agricultural College, the 'Cirencester of Cai.ada' (left; 115 students). Attached to the college is an experimental farm of about 650 acres. Guelph is the junction of lines to Gait (p. 166) and Harrisburg (p. 172) and to Wiarton (on Georgian Bay), South- amptoUj and Kincardine (2631. inhab.), three small ports on Lake - — ^la I ^- ^ ^j -, ?Jt'— Tvi VKt of &re¥nwTEir 'W^~ ■Bncardine. *r V 'cmd Beach o >ijtriionvrU( 5 I » I r; c l^WiujtofM—^^ Palm Sta. \ POH Albert ^Win^ft^ftO ^^ Du/iffii/tnnn »;?>* ^'^ Goderi£hXi i\ ^^^^ ' oairdon Vkron ^- , (rosxmu/i;^' Ifa oui'fon afo tmni. * W[ "iDechefviUe I Zurich DuPff-i h'l /.■>•]• — <^ r ■■ TL -J . 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I ]pt, 'Pelee iPfflntePelpe Island Md/him^ Pf •*"■' ^fiell^L \^ - jUF* ^r-*)1e y^.yo„,^r^.^ f 1^""" : /fJorP* ff«'fli^i -tft ■''^^.. '^<<^;>--^oo j^^'^" /,jor>uH- « -^«* Vi'mh(T\-i:ie ■»■* Sandusky '(^"^ -i,C^ '*!iyr»^ «„^ ' "t j?k'^wY//^ o Pct/Ur an J- Pins % ^•c O/. ■•^. "^^-., *^>2: '*'>, •••■ft.. ^^*7^ ''^ '''' J Vainer VDfbPs' Cptiiil Kslab' Liipzig 4°,- -fe-Vjo, 4^^^y Statute Milps 1 : 2i\^ llirford O . iQwfTi Soundt' .1, r r I e Oran^eviUe ^^^'non ^^^^^^^ 9Cal(twel/ ,fta ^ O -- ^tstowel y salmom-iile'' ^ramqmi '^ PiiliMTTh: J:imi>ar? Sm-M^vorlo ^^^L Hverl(in O < ^ * /? '*". St ouft\Tl l e_^»?tngTVTOtigt«», Lind»a y— M •^-Sani ;■© iur\ ^HieorffHown Vt'fston- Mil h ■ fonPMogq^ # • >'Vr't41CSl«'V 'Mitcfii-a ,' , , ^ :,o Klr^l^orti fl? Cuelpli o \Uiteriooo ;i\ Respeler Batltri Berlin "^ o^' \-ew Hamburg s °r - i ™ Tjonawaiu [waiida ^Corinth mlev Mlnta-y^sl Ixitcdovh jwf' JV,, «//// :J^/r>r/a^^ ""^or,. y '' -0,^-5 ^^'us? I Juter Bay of jn" ifflTi iti9 m ^*6, o >> J&ft 'v^^'^"'"''^ Blasdell '^^<'^j.* 9O ^7 'Vi'/j. o Xfo/livs o "^H 'ipjri *^, a 6'heriditn j,^ ^*^rt ^Rroctan o I Collins\ •<">{! 'W '^«f>^. ^S^* <5?^, «Ji. '^ o '='''"''^7^^^'^''^';;f;^T>4/«/v«//M O I I '-^jv f^; ("W o : ^ \ _.r_..i-i-....;..„.^ 1 * Ir ^--^""^A JO ; 1£^-^ — --. X— i— hm 'aiuiua ^ oManteSprings , 1^ Ldkf'woodfi " • ui'yiiH ■tdolph Ashfabula Pcnnsule M\:\tir la °Rlo/)m/'/i-M o o* a .>> : K > o , , o Xmhrnok ! Ptaaier ,. . P.*: , /•„,i,...xnir Garland ia R * .V^a River :-^ * i|//^ fkialevdh ...sV'"' Trvoii- \Sarron \ TlioUipxon '' 'i"-; p>'"1e: n n s Y""l V «a n I a Andnvi^j \ \^ /<^iloa xilusviUe ,.- ,, o . ^ '; ~*, 1 ' ^■'Sllickorjt,,, , ,0 Home „ 1 Jpnvstown ,ii^„ Oil CilV Ji^ _ - ^ t, , / / 1 ' Ilo (7arksMids * - -i'lt < , ' ' 1 *,, i^ ___J _ .8C2- •*" f 12 qTim^yttt Pigeon 01 /g inr/rr-i.-ti -x o To csr '^"'^' Marifinvil/fi \ ©, South Side Stn o I ,x''-' Pitts (jurg ■.i___e*7B' to Detroit. DETROIT. 35. Route. 165 Huron. — From (62 M.) Berlin (American Ho.. Sl^/o: 7425 inhab.), in a district largely settled by Germans, short lines run to Waterloo and Gait (p. 16(3).' 82 M. Shakspe streets and bridges (Piccadilly, Pall Mall, Regent St., Oxiord St., Blackfriars. Westminster). The city is well built and contains handsome churches (St. Pauls, etc.), public buildings, colleges, and an opera-house. It is the junction of lines to St. Thomas, St. Mary's, Goderich, Sarnia, Hamilton, etc. Pleasant excursions may be made in the environs. Beyond London the line bends round to the left (S.W.), running parallel with the G.T.R,, which follows almost the same route from this point to Windsor. Between (135 M.) Lcngicood and (139 M.) Appin Junction we cross a branch of the Michigan Central K.R. — 178 M. Chatham (Garner Ho., $2; Rankin Ho., Globe, $1';2), also a station on the G.T.R. and the Erie & Huron R.R., is a flourishiTig agricidtural centre with 9052 inhabitants. Our line crosses tlie Thames and the G.T.R. here and henceforth runs to the S. of them. Farther on we skirt the S.bank of Lake St. Clair. 208 M. Belle Rirer. At (2'23 M.) Walkerville Junction we cross the Lake Erie M. Waterdown. The fertile fruit-growing country we are now traversing is known as the 'Garden of Canada". 39 M. Hamilton. — Hotels. Royal, 79 James St. Xorth, $21/2-4; St, Nicholas, 53 James St. Xorth, $2; Dominion, American, King St., $1V-.'. — Railway Restaurant, Tramways traverse the chief streets (5 c.). — C«65 25c. per drive within the city for each pers. ; per hour, 1-4 pers., $1. — Post Office, 2 John St. South (7-6). — Grand Opera House, James St. North. — Hamilton Club, James St. Hamilton (255 ft.), the fourth city of Canada, with (1891) 48,980 inhab., was founded about 1810 and is pleasantly situated on Hamil- ton Bay, at the W. end of Lake Ontario, on one of the steps or ter- to Niagara, HAMILTON. 30. Route. 169 races which surround the lake and seem to have at one time forrced its shore. It carries on a very considerable commerce by land and water and hc-s some claim to the title of the 'Birmingham of Canada' in virtue of its numerous industries (value of products in 1892, $ 13,980,000; hands employed, 14,000). Its harbour is formed by Burlington Beach, a sand-spit M. long, resembling the island at Toronto (see p. 168), through which a short canal has been dug. Behind the town rises the so-called Mountain (250 ft.), part of the 'Niagara Escarpment' (*View ; inclined railway to the top. .") c). Ham- ilton is well laid out and contains many substantial public and private buildings. It is the centre of the fruit distri^.t of \V. Canada and tlie seat of bishops of the Anglican and Roman Cavholic churches. Near the centre of the city lies the pretty triangular park named the *Gore, formed by the convergence of York, James, aiid King Sts. Round it are grouped many of the principal buildings of the city, including the Post Office^ the Bank of Hamilton, the Custom House^ the Bank of British ^'orth America, and the offices of the Cunada Life Assurance Co. and the Hamilton Provident 4" Loan Society. The School Buildings are unusually handsome and substantial, and many of the Churches are also fine. Other important edifices are the City Hall, the Court House, and the tree Public Lilrary. On the top of the Mountain stands the large Government Lunatic Asylum. Many of the handsomest private residences are near the base of the Moun- tain ; one of the finest is Wesanford, the home of the Hon.W.E. Sanford, with good art-collections. — Dundurn Park affords pretty walks. Hamilton contains, perhaps, the best Racecourse in America. Burlington Beach (Ocean House; see ab«»ve), is, like the Island at Tn- ronto, a favourite summer-resort of the townspeople. It is called at regularly by the steamer between Hamilton and Toronto (comp. p. 167); the steamboat wharf is 1 M. from the centre of the town (tr?vmway 5 c, cab for 1-2 pers. 50 c). Another pleasant short excursion may be made to (6 M.) Diindas (p. 172). From Hamilton to Allanoale, 95 31., Grand Trunk Railway in 4V2 hrs, (fare $1.90). — This Im&cvos^e^ Burlington Beach, and diverges to the ieft at (11 M.) Burlington Crossing (p. 168) fr<'ni the ahove-described line to Toronto. At (25 M.) Miltoit (p. 166) we intersect the C.P.R. from Toronto to Detroit; at (36 31.) Georgetown, (p. 16i) we intersect the G.T.R. line from Toronto to Port Huron; and at (5'2 31.) Cardwell Junction we connect with the C.P.R. branch to Owen Sound (R. 39). — At (71 31.) Beeton, famous for its honey, the line forks, the left branch leading to (41 M.) GolUngwood {]). 180), while the right branch runs to (95 31.) AUandale, where it unites with the line to the Muskoka District dtscribed at p. 162. FiioM Hamilton to Port Dover, 40 31., Grand Trunk Railway in 2V2 hrs. (fare $ 1.25i. — Port Dover is a small harbour on Lake Erie. From Hamilton to Detroit, see R. 37 b. Beyond Hamilton tlie train runs towards the E., parallel with the S. shore of Lake Ontario, frequent views of which ar^ obtained to the left. 45 M. Stoney Creek; 50 M. Winona; 55 M. Grimshy; 57 M. Grimsby Park, a summer-resort with a large Methodist camp-meeting ground. The district we are now traversing is one vast orchard, pro- ducing large quantities of peaclies and other fruit. 65 M. Jordan. — 71 M. St. Catharine's (Stephenson Ho., $ 3 ; Welland, Grand Cen- 170 Route 36. MEKHITTON. tral, $'2), a prettily situated little city with 9170 inhab., lies to the left (N.) of the railway, on tlie Wetland Canal (see below ). It carries on ship-building and other Industries, and its mineral springs attract numerous visitors. The Bishop Ridley Colleue is a Church of Eng- land iiistitntion with accommodation for 200 boys. The Welland Ship Canal, constructed about 1824, runs from Port Dal- hoiitie, on Lake Ontario, to Fort Colborne. on Lake Erie, a distance of 26^/4 M., and affords an outlet from the Upper Lakes to the St. Lawrence and the sea for vessels of 1500 tons. The difference of level between the lakes (326^/4 ft.) is overcome by 25 locks. The canal is 14 ft. deep and luO ft. wide at the bottom. About 1,000,000 tons of goods are annually carried through the Welland Canal. St. Catharine's is als" connected hv railway with (3 M.) Port Dalhousie aud (22 M.) Port Colborne. At (73 M.) Merritton (1813 inliab.) the train passes through a tunnel below the Welland Canal (see above), the ships in which Bi^pear as if sailing in the air above our heads. Nt.ar Merritton is the battlefield of Beaver Dams (June 24th, 1813), marked t)y a, small monument, where Ensign Fitzgibbon, with 40 British soldiers and 200 Indians, captured an American f ^rce of 650 men. The British outpost here was warned of the American a9proach by the heroism of Mrs. Laura Secord., who traversed 20 M. of Indian-haunted forest alone and on foot. The Canadian town of (82 ^ 2 M.j Niagara Falls (Victoria Hall, Wcaley Park. Park Side Inn, Robinson House, $2). with 4500 inhab. (including Clifton)^ lies at the W. end of the Railway Suspension Bridge (p. 178). It is a manufacturing place (value of products in 1891, $444,435), and is not very conveniently situated for visitors to the Falls (see, however, the note on the electric railway at p, 173). The new Colleghite Institute is a handsome building. The train moves slowly across the bridge to the (83 M.) Sus- pension Bridge Station (hand-baggage examined, see p. 168), where passengers sometimes change carriages for the N. Y. line to (2 M.) the American town of Niagara Falls (see p. 173). 37. From Detroit to Buffalo. Detroit and Buffalo are both in the United States , but the direct routes between them pass almost wholly through Canadian territory. a. Vi& Michigan Central Kailroad. 251 >I. Railway (North Shore Line or ^Niagara Falh Route') in 7-8 hrs. (fare $7, sleeper $2, parlour-car $ IV2). This line runs abmg the N. shore of Lake Erie, through Ontario, and affords .'' good view of Niagara Falls (see p. 171). It forms part of one of the great through-routes between New York and Chicago (see Baedeker s United States). Luggage checked through to United States points is not examined 5 small packages are examined in crossing the Cantilever Bridge (p. 178), From Detroit (p. 1 65) we cross the Detroit River to (1 M.) Windsor. as described at p. 167. The line runs at first towards the S.W., but turns abruptly to the left at (16 M.) Essex Centre^ the junction of a branch-line to (16 M.) Amherstburg (American Hotel, Park Ho., $11/21 2279 inhab.) and Toledo (see Baedeker's United States^ The ST. THOMAS. 37. Route. 171 country traversed is flat and fertile, without jireat scenic attractions. From (29 M.) Comber a branch-line runs to (14 M.) Letminijton (p. 166). At (55 M.) Fargo we intersect the Erie & Huron K.H. 66 M. Ridyetoivn (Benton Ho., $ [^ ■>., '2254 iubab.); 91 M. JJutton. 110 M. St. Thomas {(irand Central. $'2-2V2; Hutchinson Ho., Queen's, $ 11/.2-2; Globe^ $ i^/)), a thriving city of 10,370 inhab., >vith various industries and a trade in agricu-ltural produce, is the junction of lines to Glencoe, London (p. 166; 15 M.) , Toronto (p. 153), etc. A short branch-line runs to the S. to (8 M.). Port Stanley (Kraser's Hotel, $li/2-^'/2)? ^ harbour and summer-resort on Lake Erie, with a fine sandy beach. — Farther en we cross two branches of the G.T.R. From (157 M.) Waterford a line runs to (17 M. ) Brantford {Ktrhy Ho., $2; Commercial. $1.5(J), a city of 12,753 inhab., with manu- factures of agricultural implements, stoves, waggons, and bicycles. It is named after the famous Mohawk chief Brant, who remained loyal to England at the American Revolution and migrated hither. with part of his tribe, after the close of the war. A tine monument to him has been erected in Victoria S»iuaro. Brantford, which is known for its high-class scliools, is the headquarters of the amalgamated tribes of the Six Nations. Brant is buried in the old Mohawk Church. 2M. from the city, where services are still held in the Mohawk dialect. The BrAc Park Farm, with its famous thoroughbred stock, lies 3 M. from the city. — At (169 M.) Hagersville we cross the G.T.R. line from Hamilton to Port Dover (see p. 169) and at (185 M.) Canfield the G. T. R. line from Buffalo to Goderich (p. 165). — 211 M. Welland (Dexter Ho., Eraser Ho. , $ 1-1 ^o); "^i^h 2035 inhab., is one of the prosperous little settlements that have sprung up along the W'ellaiid Canal (p. 170). From this point a short line runs direct to (23 M.) Buffalo^ \ik Fort Erie and the International Bridge .^ but our line turns to the left (N.E.) and reaches the 'Niagara River at (223 M.) FalU V'ieiy, where all trains stop five minutes to allow passengers to enjoy the splendid *View of Niagara Falls (p. 174). The train then runs to the N. to ('^24 M.) Niagara Falls, Ont. (p. 170), and (225 M.) Clifton. whence it crosses the Niagara by the Cantilever Bridge (p. 178 ; *View of the rapids) to (226 M.) Suspension Bridge (p. 178). Thence to (228 M.) Niagara Falls, N. F., and (251 M.) Buffalo, see pp. 170, 168. Beyond Clifton the Michigan Central R.K. runs to the N. to (6 31.) Queenston (p. 168) and (13 M.) Niagara-on-ihe-Lake (p. 167). b. T;* Grand Trunk Railway. 255 M. Raiz^wat in » hrs. (fares, etc., as above). This line runs via London, Hamilton, S'asp i ion Bridge, and Niagara Fallt, (N. Y.), From Detroit {v :' ,) we cross to (1 M.) ^Vindsor (p. 166) as above. From Winosor to (110 M.) London (p. 166) the route is substantially the same as that followed by the C.P.R. (R. 36 b). The chief intermediate station is (46 M.) Chatham (p. 166). Beyond London the line continues to follov/ a general N.E. di- 172 Route 37. LAKE ERIE. rection. 130 M. Ingersoll. At (138 M.) Woodstock (p. 161)) we touch the C.P.Ii. line to Toronto and cross the G.T.R. line to Goderich (p. 16o). 157 M. Paris-, 167M. Harrisburg (Rail. Restaurant), a rail- way-junction of some importance (comp. p. 164'. 180 M. Dundas (Riley Ho., $lV27i ^ town with 3546 inhab., is older than Hamilton and was at one time a rival. The scenery here is very attractive. — 186 M. Hamilton (Rnil. Restaurant)^ see p. 168. From Hamilton to (230 M.) Niagara Falls (N.Y.) and (255 M.) Buffalo, see pp. 169, 170, 108. c. By Steamer. Steamers of the Erie & Western Transportation Co. ply from Detroit to Cleveland (fare $3) and Buffalo ($6V2) every Mon. and every second Sat., taking about (me day to the JourDey. The sti'amers are reasonably com- fortable, and the above fares include meals and berths. Warm wraps should be taken even in midsummer. For an account of the voyage all the way belween Buffalo and Chirac/o, seeBaedtkers IJandbook to (he United States. Detroit, pee p. 165. The steamer first descends the Detroit River, which varies in \vidth from 4 M. at its mouth to '2 M. opposite De- troit. It generally presents a very animated sight; and some idea of the traffic on the Great Lakes may be gathered from the fact that the aggregate tonnage of the ships passing Detroit in the seven months during which navigation is open (36,000,000 tons in 1890) nearly equals that of the vessels annually entering and clearing at London and Liverpool (37,500,000 tons in 1890). Lake Erie (573 ft. above the sea), which we reach about 18 M. from Detroit, the second (counted from the E.) of the Great Lakes between Canada atid the United States, is 250 M. long and 40-65 M. wide, with ai\ area of 9900 sq. M. It is by far the shallowest of all, having an average depth of 85 ft. and a maximum depth of 210 ft. It communicates with Lake Huron by the Detroit River (see above) and pours its waters into Lake Ontario by the Ningara River (see p. 174). It is the scene of a very busy navigation. The first vessel to navigate the lake was built on the Niagara Kiver by La Salle in 1679, and the first steamboat was launched in 1818. The steamer passes the *Put-in-Bay Islands, a favourite summer- resort (several hotels), about 20 M. from the mouth of the Detroit ; the largest is Pelee Island, 8 M. from Point Pelee (p. 166) and belong- ing to Canada. We then steei for the S. (U.S.) shore. 65 M. (from Detroit) Sandusky ( West Ho., Sloane Ho., $2-3), with 18,471 inhab., a good harbour, and a trade in fish and fruit, is pasu: fi nthout a stop. The coast farther on is varied and picturesque. 1^: M. Cleveland (580 ft; Hollenden, $3-5, R. from $1; Stillman, $372-5; Forest City, $2V2-'^), t^e second city jf Ohio, with 261,353 inhab. and large iron and steel works, is fully described in Baedeker's United States. It is one of the most beautiful cities on the Great Lakes, and is seen to advantage from the steamer. The Garfield Memorial, over the grave of President Garfield, is conspicu- I J.i Wkgncr iDPlies" Cpog' Kstab'. Lrip/.ig NIAGARA FALLS. 38. Route. 173 ous to the E. of the city. Beyond Clevelaml the steamer runs near the well-woo'led shore. 210 M. Erie (Reed Ho. , $2-3; Moore, $2), a shipping-port of Pennsylvania, with 40,464 inhab. and a sjood harbour, sheltered by Presque Isle , was the headquarters of Commodore Perry when he defeated the Anglo-Canadian fleet in 1813. Thisisusually the last point touched at by the steamer, Dunkirk ana other jtlaces being passed over. 290 M. Buffalo {Iroquois, $4-5, R. from $ 11/2; Niagara, $4-5; Genesee Ho., $21,2-4), see Baedekers United States. 38. Niagara Falls. Hotels. 'Cataract Hotel, close to the river, with good cuisine, $4; iNTERNATioNi. HoTEL. $4; KAf.TENBACH. Well spokcn of, with view of thc river, S3^ Prospect House, $3V.i-5V2. The tirst two are open in summer only. These are all on the American side, in the city of Niagara Falls. — Clifton House, on the Canadian side, near the end of the Suspension Bridge, with distant view of thc Falls, frum $4 or $5 upwards (open in summer cnly: liijih charges complained of). Railway Stations. New I'ork Central, cor. of Falls St. and Second St., also usfd by the Michigan Central and the R. W. and the dock of the 'Maid of the Mist' (see below). At the end of Falls '"^t. and Canal St., at the N.E. entrance to Pros- pect Park, stands the Niagara Falls Tower, a steei structure 300 ft. high, erected in 1893. The top, reached by an elevator (25 c), commands a splendid *View of the falls and their surroundings. The building at the foot is to be fitted up as a hotel. Following the parkway to the left (W.) from Prospect Point, we reach (3 min.) the Goat Island Bridge (360 ft. long) , crossing the right arm of the river, a little above the American Fall. It commands a tine view of the ^Vpper Rapids. To the right are several little rocky islets, including Avery s Rock, where an unfortunate man found foothold for 18 hrs. before being swept over the fall by the impact of a boat let out with ropes in an attempt to save him. The bridge ends at Bath Island., whence another short bridge crosses to *Goat Island (80 acres in extent). Here we follow the path to the right to (4 mill.) *Ltma Island, a rocky islet between the main American Fall and the '^Centre Fall^ named from the lunar rainbows seen here at full moon. The continuation of the path along the W. side of Goat Island leads in a minute or two more to the Biddle Stairs (free) and the office where a guide and dres3 are obtained for a descent to the *Cave of the "Winds (fee $ 1 ; small gratuities expected by the guide and the boy who helps you to dress). Everyone should descend the stairs and follow the path along the foot of the cliffs towards the base of the Horseshoe Falls ^ but only those of strong nerves should attempt the trip through the Cave of the Winds, which, however, is said to be safe and is often made by ladies. For those who can stand it the experience is of the most exciting and pleasurable de- scription. After passing over the gangways and bridges amid the rocks and spray in front of the Centre Fall, we are conducted through the 'Cave of the Winds' behind it. where the choking, blinding, and deafen- ing tumult of wind and water defies description. The visitors grasp each other by the hand and sidle through on a narrow ledge, with a perpen- dicular wall of rock within an inch of their noses and the mighty volume of the fall at their backs. Beyond the Biddle Stairs the path on Goat Island leads to (4 min.) Porter's Bluff , overlooking the Horseshoe Fall, the Cana- dian Rapids, and the ravine below the Falls. A staircase and bridge descend hence to **Terrapin Rock , on the edge of the Horseshoe Falls , affording the best view of these from this side. The tower which used to be here has been removed as unsafe. 'The river here is evidently much deeper than the American braneh, and instead of bursting into foam where it quits the ledge , it bends sol- idly over and falls in a continuous layer of the most vivid green. The tint is not uniform, but varied, long strips of deeper hue alternating with bands of brighter colour . . . From all this it is evident that beauty is not absent from the Horseshoe Fall, but majesty is its chief attribute. NIAGARA FALLS. 38. Eoutc. 177 The plunge of the water is not wild, but deliberate, vast, and fascinating' (Tyndall). — A condemned warship sent over the Fall in 1829 drew 18ft. of water, but passed without touching the ledge. Our path next leads along the 8. sMi^ of Goat Island to (7-8iniii.) the series of bridges leading to the *Three Sister Jslimls, whlh atford the best view of the imposing ^Canadian Rapids , running at the rate of 30 M. an hour. The Third Sister is adjoined by a smaller rock known as the Little Brother. ■ We may now return through the centre of Goat Islanro- moter. Splendid general views are obtained as we proceed of the Falls and the gorge, especially from the (3 min,) ^Ramblers Rest and (4 min.) *Inspiration Point. To the right, 3-4 min. farther on, are ^cnic Grounds and a Restaurant; and in 3 min. more we reach the Table Rock House and **Table Kock , which affords an indescrib- ably grand view of the Horseshoe Falls. Beautiful rainbows are seen on the spray in the afternoon. The roar of the water is deafening. The name of Table Rock still adheres to this point, though the last portion of the overhanging ledge that gave rise to it fell into the abyss in 1850. — An elevator here affords an opportunity to those who wish to Baeoekkk's Canada. 12 1 78 Route 38. NIAGARA FALLS. go under the Falls f25c., with dress 50c.), This trip does not necessitate the removal of clothing, but only the protection of oil-skin suits. It has lately been improved by the construction o( a tunnel (200 ft. long) and novv affords most imposing ''Views of the Falls from behind and l»elow. — Adjacent is the Potct-r House of the Electric Railway (p. 173). Visitors with time to spare may extend their walk through the Park above the Falls to (3-4 min.) Cedar Island and (1 M.) •Dufferin Islands, enjoying good views of the Canadian Rapida (p. 177). On the mainland, just beyoud the Dufferin Islands, ia the interesting Burning Spriwj (adm. 50c.), highly charged with sulphuretted hydro;icn gas, which burns with a pale blue llame. — Falls View Station of the Michigan Central R. R. (see p. 171), lies just outside the Park, opposite the lower end of Cedar Island. — A road diverging near Table Rock leads to the battlefield ol Lundy''s Lane., where the Anglo-Canadian forces defeated the Americans after a bloody struggle on July 25th, 1814. A steel tower, 110 ft. high and 450 it. above Lake Ontario, has recently been erected on the site of the battle and com- mands a splendid "View (fee 50 c., incl. adm. to a mn. . um of war-relics). No one should omit to take the **Trip in tht^ little steamer tlie Maid of the Mist, which starts near the foot of the 1 icliiied IJailway descending from the Library (see p. 176), steams up the river nearly to the foot of the Horseshoe Fall , and touches at a wharf on the Canadian side (fee 50c., incl. water-proof dress). The ** View it affords of the Falls is one of the best to be had; and the trip is perfectly safe. Passengers may disembark on the Canadian side (where a steep path ascends to the National Park) and return by any later trip of the steamer the same day. The river and its banks below the New Suspension Bridge offer many points of great interest. The Lower Rapids and the Whirlpool (see p. 179) are both seen to greatest advantage from the Canadian side. From the N. end of the bridge we follow the road descending along the edge of the clitT to (2 M.) the *Cantilever Bridge of the Michigan Central Railroad, one of the first examples of this method of construction , completed in 1883. It is entirely of steel and has a total length of 900 ft. The two cantilever arms, 395ft. and 375 ft. long, are connected in the centre by a fixed span of 125 ft. It is 245 ft. above the water. About 100 yds. below this bridge is the *Railway Suspension Bridge , finished in 1855 , with a roadway below the railroad track (toll 10 c. for each pers., ind. return). It is 825 ft. long and 245 ft. high, and is used by the Grand Trunk and Erie Railroads. It commands a fine view of the Whirlpool Rapids, but the view of the Falls is obstructed by the Cantilever Bridge. A little below the Suspension Bridge is the entrance to the so- called Rapids Park, where we descend an Inclined Railway (50 c.) to view the *Wliirlpool Bapids, which in their own way are as wonderful as the Falls. The immense volume of water is here forced to flow through so narrow a channel (300 ft.) that it actually as- sumes a convex form, the centre of the river being 20-30 ft. higher than the edges. Three other elevators (each 50 c.) descend to the Rapids on the American side. The impreasion of force is overwhelming. 'The surges did not look like the gigantic ripples on a rivers course, as they were, but like a NIAGARA FALLS. 3^. Route. 179 procession of ocean billows ; they rose far aloft in vast bulks of clear green, and broke heavily into foam at the cresf (Howellt). It was in an effort to swim down these Rapids that Capt. Webb lost his life in 1883, but since then several persons havo passed through them safely in barrels. The old 'Maid of the Misi'' was successfully piloted through the Rapids to Lewiston in 1861. Blondin and others have crossed the gorge above the Rapids on ropes of hemp or wire. We may now cross the railway Suspeusioii Bridge and return along the American side (tramway, see p. 173). About 1 M. below the Railway Suspension Bridge is the *Whirl- pool, of wliich we get a good distant view from the top of the cliff, while we may descend to its margin by an inclined railway (oOc). The river here bends suddenly at right angles to its former course, and the "Whirlpool is occasioned by the full force of the current impinging against the ciififs of the left bank. 'Here within the compass of a mile, those inland soas of the North, Superior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, and the multitudes of smaller lakes, all pour their Hoods, where they swirl in dreadful vortices, with resistless undercurrents boiling beneath the surface of that mighty eddy. Abruptly from this scene of secret power, so different from the thunderous splen- dours of the cataract itself, rise lofty clilTs on every side, to a height of two hundred feet, clothed from the water's edge almost to their crests with dark cedars. Ncdselessly, so far as your senses perceive, the lakes steal out of the whirlpool, then, drunk and wild, with brawling rapids, roar away to Ontario through the narrow channel of ibe river. Awful as the scene is, you stand so far above it that you do not know the half of its terribleness ; for those waters that look so smooth are great ridges and rings, forced, by the impulse of the currents, twelve feet higher in the centre than at the margin. Nothing can live there, and with what is caught in its hold, the maelstrom plays for days, and whirls and tosses round and round in its toils, with a sad maniacal patience'' (Uowells). The RiVEJt Road ascends along the American side of the river from Goat Island Bridge to (1 M.j the Old French Landing., where La Salle and Father Hennepin are said to have embarked in 1678 after their portage from Lewiston. Nearly opposite, on the Canadian shore, is the village of Chippewa^ where the Americans defeated the English in 1814. This is the terminas of the Electric Ilailvvay (p. 173). Abr.ut 1 M. farther up is the Schloster Landing., fortified by the French in 1750 and by the English in 1761. Navy Islandy near the Canadian shore, gave shelter to the insurgents of the 'Mackenzie War' (1837-38^ corap. p. 155). Just above is Grand Is- land (26 sq. M. in area), which obtained some notoriety in 1820, when Major Noah proposed to found here the city of Ararat, as a universal refuge for the Jews. Opposite Grand Island, on the American shore, 5 M. above the Falls, is the mouth of the Cayuga., where La Salle launched the 'Griffon', the lirst vessel to navigate the Great Lakes (1679). About 8 M. to the N.E. of Niagara Falls is the Reiervaiion of the Tnscarora Indians (baskets, etc., for sale). From Niagara to Buffalo., see p. 168: to Lewiston, Niagara-on-the-Lah\ and Toronto, see R. 36 a j to Hamilton, see R. 36 b j to Queenston, see p. 16S^ to Detroit, see R. 37. 39. From Toronto to Owen Sound and Fort William. 677 M. Canadian Pacific Railway to (122 M.) Owen Sound in 5-5V2 hrs. (fare $3.65; parlour-car 5U c); Steamer thence to (555 M.) Fort William in 45hrs. (fare $17.50, incl. meals and stateroom; through-fare from Toronto to Fort William $20.35, from Montreal $30.30). This forms part of the so-called 'Lake Route' of the Canadian Pacific Eailway^ and tickets from Eastern points to Fort William or points farther 12* ISO Route 39. OWEN SOUND. From Toronto to tlie W. are available either l>y this route or by railway (R, 41). Tra- vellers who are not pressed for time are strongly advised to prefer the 'Lake Route', as they miss comparatively little of interest on the rail- way between Montreal anu Fort William and gain an (tpportunity t<» see something of the scenery of the Great Lakes, the SauU-Ste-Marie Canal, etc. The C. P. R. steamers are amoni; the Mnest vessels for inland navigation in the world, atlording excellent accommodation, service, and cuisine. The season of navigation lasts from about May Ist to Nov. 15th ^ and in summer the water of the hikes is generally smooth, ToroTito, see p. 153. The train (boat-express at 7.50a.m.) passes ('2 M.) Parkdale (p. 1C4) and (5 M.j Toronto Junction (p. 165) and runs towards the N.W. xVt (9 M.) Wedon (430 ft.) the G. T. R. line to Port Huron diverges to the left (R. 35 a), and at (35 M.) Cardweil Junction we inte^^ect the ] Rail. Restaurant), a town of 2962 inhab., with mills, factoriis, and a grain and timber trade, is tlie junction of branch-lines to (73 M.) Wingham (2167 inhab.). Tees- water (74 M,), Elora (34 M.), etc. Elora (Commercial Hotel. ^V/-z), a village with about 1200 inhab., lies on the Grand Rivtr^ which here cuts its way through a picturesque lime- stone ravine, with walls 100 ft. hij^h. Elora contains a small Museum illus- trating the natural history and geology of the district. This was the land of the Atliwandarouk or Xeutral Jndiuiis, interposed between the liurons and the Iroquois. Beyond Orangeville the train crosses a fertile and well-tilled plateau (1600-1700 ft. above the sea). Numerous lakes are passed, often affording good trout-fishing. At (76 M.) Dundalk (1700 ft.) we reach the highest point of the line and begin to descend. Near (86 M.) Flesherton (1560 ft.) are the *Eugenia Falls. 93 M. Mark- dale (1360 ft.) ; 109 M. Chatsworth (945 ft). Beyond (114 M.) Rock- ford (910 ft.) we come in sight of Georgian Bay, to which we de- scend rapidly. 122 M. Owen Sound (585 ft.; Patterson Ho., Albion^ American, Coulson, $1^/2-2; Rail. Restaurant) , a rising little lake-port with 7497 inhab. and a well-sheltered harbour, lies at the mouth of the Sydenham River , at the head of Owen Sound , an inlet on the S. shore of Georgian Bay, It enjoys some reputation as a summer- resort owing to its pretty scenery {^Inglis and other waterfalls, etc.) and its facilities for boating, bathing, fishing, and shooting. Good quarries and brick-fields occur in the neighbourhood, and various in- dustries are successfully carried on. Among the principal buildings are the High School, the Town Hall, and the Court House. Fkom Owen Sound to Sault-Ste-Makie by the North Channel, 485 31. Steamers of the Great Northern Transit Co., starting from Collingwood (p. 159), leave Owen Sound about 10.30 p.m., on the arrival of the afternoon express from Toronto, and run to the N. through Georgian Bay and the 'North Ghanner (between the mainland and Manitoulin Island), calling at many points on the N. shore of Lake Huron. The voyage takes about 21/2 days, and ample time is generally allowed for landing at the various portis. The steamers and their accommodation are good, and the trip is healthful Wd enjoyable in summer (fare $ 8, return-fare $ 14). — Among iixQ points to Fort William. LAKE HURON. 39. Route. 181 called at are Wiarfon (see p. 164; 96 M. from Collingwood, 40 M. from Owen Sound); Killarney (196 M, from Collingwood), at the foot of the La Cloche MU. (755-11^0 ft.), on the N. shore of Georgian Bay, at the he- ginning of the North Channel; Mnintownning (226 M.). nearly opposite, on Grand Mnmioitlin If land f^ee helow), where Indian souvenirs, etc. ni;iy he i>urcha8ed ffrood tront-fishinfz); Little CtJrrrnt ('2^G M.), on Manitoulin ; Gorfi Bav (294 M.), also on the island: F^panish River (314 M.), on the main- land (see p. IW); Serpent Eiver (3U M.); Algoma Afills fp. 190; 319 M.); Bliiid River (357 M.); Thessalon (p. 190; 413 M.); and Bruce iff net (p. 190; 425 51.). The steamer calls at the Cmadian village of Sault-Sfe-ifarie before crossing to its terminus on the American siile (p. 182). In .Ttily and Aug. the steamers go on from the Soo to Afackinac (p. 182; $10 round trip, in G days, S 14). Steamers of the snme company ply from Collingwood and Midland (p. 182), through the 'Inside Channe", to Parry Sotmd, French Rirer, Byng Inlet., etc (corap. pp. 161. 164). Lake Huron (580 ft. above the sea) , across the waters of which the next part of our mute leads, is 250 M. long and 50-200 M. wide, with an area of 23,800 sq. M. Its greatest depth is 700 ft. The Sangeen Peninsula, jutting out from the S. . and the Grand Mani- toulin Island, on the N., approach within 20 M. of each other and divide the lake into two portions , of which that to the E. is known as Oeorgian Bay (130 M. long and 50 M. wide). The W, shore of Lake Huron is low and little varied in outline (with the exception of the deep t'^'aginaw Bay) , hut the N. and E. coasts are rocky and indented, often showing bold limestone cliffs. The lake contains an enormous number of islands (estimated as high as 36,000) , espe- cially along the E. shore of Georgian Bay (Parry Archipelago) and in the 'North Channel', between Manitoulin and the mainland. The E. and N. shores of the lake belong to Canada, the "W. to Michigan. The name Huron is derived from hure (wild boar), a term applied by the French to the Wyandotte Indians on account of their manner of dressing their hair. 'Huronian', as applied to a series of primary or crystalline rocks , was originally used to describe the beds of this series overlying the Laurentian formations on the N. shore of Lakes Huron and Superior. On leaving Owen Sound, the C. P. R. steamer runs along the W. side of Georgian Bay (see above) . steering a little to the W. of N. To the left lies the Saugeen Peninsula , jutting out into the lake for about 50 M. and forming geologically the termination of the so-called ^Niagara Escarpment\ running from Niagara Falls to Cape Hurd. When clear of the peninsula, the steamer turns to the left (W.) and enters Lake Huron proper by the channel mentioned above, between Ca-pe Hurd, the extremity of the Saugeen Peninsula, on the left, and the Grand Manitoulin on the right, t The Grand Manitoulin Island, which lies to the N. of our course as we cross Lake Huron, is 80 M. long and 30 M. wide across its widest part. It is inhabited by a number of Ojibway Indians, and i The channel is actually narrowed down to about 5 M# by the ialeta lying off Cape Hurd and 'he S. end of Manitoulin. iS2 Roxite 39, SAULT-STE-MARIE. From Toronto along its N. coast are several villages frequented as summer-resorts (comp. above). Our steamer passes it in the night, and we conse- quently see little of it. Early next morning the steamer threads the narrow Detour Pas- sage , between Michigan on the left and Drummond Island on the right, and enters the beautiful *St. Mary's liicer (Go M.), connecting Lake Huron with Lake Superior. Farther on St. Joseph Island lies to the right, with first the mainland and then Encampment Island to the left. We next pass the rapids between Sugar Island (1,) and the mainland (r.) , traverse the expansion of tho river called Bear Lake or Lake George (9 M. long and 3-4 M. wide), and finally turn to the left (W.) round the N. end of Sugar Island and enter the Sault-Ste- Marie Canal, by which we avoid the St. Mary Rapids (r.). 397 M. ('275 M. irom Owen Sound) Sault-Ste-Marie (615 ft.; Iroquois, $2-3; Chippewa, $2^2-3; MicJiigan Exchange , $21-2), a thriving little city with 5760 inhab., originated in a French mission established here in 1641. Its position on the Soo Canal and at the convergence of several railways gives it a considerable commercial importance. To the P^. lies Fort Brady, a U. S. military post. Fre- quent steam-ferries cross to the Canadian Sault-Ste-Marie (Inter- national Hotel, $3-4), a village with about 1200 inhabitants. One of the things to 'do' at the Soo is to shoot the Rapids in a canoe guided by an Indian , an exciting but reasonably safe experience (enquire at hotels). There is good trout-tishing above the Rapids and in the neigh- houring streams, and Ihe Indians catch whitefish with scoop nets below the Rapids. — The island of Mackinac (p. 181) is easily reached from the Soo. — From Sault-Ste-Marie to Dnluth by railway rnd by steamer along the S. shore of Lake Superior, see Baedeker's United States. The old *St. Mary's or Soo Ship Canal was constructed by the State of Michigan in 1853-5 and was 1800 yds. long, 100 ft. wide, and 12 ft. deep, with two locks, each 350 ft. long. The present canal, constructed by the U. S. Governmeni, is 2380 yds. long. 108 ft. wide at its narrowest part (the movable dam), and 16 ft. deep. The lock is 515 ft. long, 80 ft. wide, and 391/2 ft. deep. It has a lift of 18 ft., can hold two larg'" lake-steamers, and takes 11 min. to lill. Two minutes are required to open or close the lock- gates. The total cost of the canal enlargement was $2,150,000 (430,000 M. A new lock now in construction on the site of the two old locks of 1855 will be still larger than the present one, having a length of 800 ft., a breadth of 100 ft., and a depth of 21 ft. of water on the sills. The estim- ated cost of this new lock and the accomiianying enlargement of the canal is $4,740,000 (958,(X)0^). — A Ship Canal is now also being constructed on the Canadian side of the river, to avoid the discriminating tolls levied on vessels bound fi)r Canadian ports. This canal, which will, it is expected, be completed in July, 1894, is about 2/3 M. long and will include a lock 9(X) ft. long. Its total cost is estimated at $ 3,0tJ0.0(X). The annual tonnage of the vessels passing through the Soo Canal is about the same as that passing through the Suez Canal. In 1892 the canal was passed by 19,580 vssels, with an aggregate tonnage of nearly 11.000,000 (Suez Canal in the same year, 10,8(i(),401 tons). The value of the freight carried was $135,117,267 (27,023,450/.), as compared with upwards of $ 300,(J00,000 on the Suez Canal. The proportiim of the freight tonnage carried l)y Canadian vessels is 4 or 5 per cent. The passage of the locks at Sault-Ste-Marie takes fully an hour, which passer-gers may spend in visiting the town. In emerging from the canal we pass under the flue railway-bridge of the C. P. R. line to Fort WiUiam. LAKE SUPERIOR. 39. Route. 183 from Sudbury to Sault-Ste-Marie (see p. 190) and a movable dam forming a read-bridge, A little farther on, between Point Iroquois to the left (U. S.) and Gros Gap to the right (Canada), we leave the St. Mary's River and enter Whitefish Bay, forming the S.E. end of Lake Superior. Lake Superior (600 ft. above the sea), the highest of tlie Great Lakes, is the largest body of fresh water on the globe, being 380 M. long and IGO M. in extreme width, with an area of 31,600 sq. M, The greatest depth known is 1008 ft. The lake receives the waters of 200 streams and contains numerous islands, chiefly near its E. and W. ends. Its coast-line (ca. 1500 M.) is irregular and generally rock-bound, some of its diffs and hills being very picturesque. The water is singularly clear and bitterly cold even at midsummer. Lake Superior whitefish (Coregonus clupeiformls) are excellent eating, and the traveller should not miss the opportunity to ta>te them furnished by the steamers bill-of-fare. Other varieties of flsii are also abundant. Whitefish Point, to the left, with its liglitliouse, marks the end of "Whitefish Bay and the beginning of the lake proper, across which we now hold a N.W. course for over 200 M., soon passing out of sight of land. The first land we comi^ in sight of next morning is Isle Royale. a rugged, rock-bound island, oO M. long, lying near the N.W. shore of the lake. Our course bends to the left (W.) and passes between tliis island and the mainland. To the right rises the fine promontory of *Thunder Point, a huge volcanic mass rising 1300 ft. above the lake. Near its foot is tlie tiny Silver Islet, which has yielded between three and four nnllion dollars worth of the precious metal whose name it bears. Passing Thunder Point, w'e enter Thun- dei* Bay, the moutli of which, to the S. (1.), is closed by Pie Island. The steamer generally calls at Port Arthur (p. 192), if the state of the water allows, before entering the Kaministiquia River and reach- ing its terminus at — 556 M. (280 M. from Sault-Ste-Marie) Fort WilUam (see p. 192), where we join the C. P. R. for Manitoba, the N.W. Territories, and British Columbia. The K. shore of Lake Superior, of which we see so little from the steamer, is very picturesque at places hut is not accossilile except hy small boat. Almost the only settlement on it between Sault-Ste-Marie and "Nepijion is Michipicokn ., a post of the Hudson Bay Co. MicMpicokn Island lies ahout 35 M. farther to the W. Com p. p. 191. Steamers ply regularly from Fort William to Dulnth (see Baedeker's United States), skirting the N.W. coast of Lake Superior. 40. From Toronto to Montreal by Steamer. The St. Lawrence Biver and the Thousand Islands. 370 M. Steamkr of the Richelie^i d- Ontario Navigation Co. daily, leaving Toronto at 2 p. in. and reaching 3Iontreal at 6. 30 p. m. on the following day (fare $ 10; meals extra). As the sail through Ltke Ontario otTers no special attraction, many travellers prefer to leave Toronto hy the eveninfi; train of the G.T.R. (about 8.40 p.m.) and join the steamer at (ITB M.) Kingston, 184 Route 40. KINGSTON. From Toronto which the hoat leaves ahont 5.15 a. to. (through-fare as above; fare from Kingston to Montreal $5.25). This, however, involves leaving the ."leeping- car at a very early hour; and it is much to be desired that the arrange- ments for travellers from Toronto to Montreal by this route .should be im- proved. Passengers who make the J^t. Lawrence trip from American soil usually join the steamer at Clayton (.''ee below, and corap. Baedelcr^s Unitttd St'iii's). — In the reverse direction the steamers leave Montreal at 10 a.m. and Kingston at 3 p.m., reaching Toronto at 6.30 a.m. Leaving Toronto (p. 153), the steamer skirts the N. shore of Lake Ontario (p. 167) and makes its first ^top at — 44 M. (5.20 p. ra.) Durlingion^ tlie port o\' Bovrnanrille (p. 1'^-^), which lies 4i/o M. inland. — 64 M. (6.50 p.m.) Port Hope (p. 163). — 70 M. (7.20 p. m.) Cohourg (p. 153). Tlie steamer then bends to the S.E. and passes round the end of Prince Edward Peninsula (p. 152), making no other stop until King- ston is reached. In the reverse direction the steamers take the inside route through the Bap of Quints and the Murray Canal, calling at JJeseronto, Belleville, and Trenton (see p. 152). 178 M. (5.15 a.m.) Kingston (275 ft. ; Brithh American Hotel, Frontenac^ $2-3; CityHotel, $1^ 2"'A the 'Limestone City', a prosperous place with 19,264 inhab., is finely situated on the Cataraqui River, at the point where the St. Lawrence leaves Lake Ontario, and makes a brave and imposing show with its grey stone batteries and Martello towers. It contains locomotive works and other manufactories, and much of the produce brought down from the L^pper Lakes is here transshipped to barges for carriage to Montreal. It is also the outlet for the traffic of the Rideau Canal (see p. 148). Kingston play3 a role of .simie importance in the history of Canada. Count de Frontenac, Governor of Canada, established Fort Frontenac at this jian Pacific Railavay to (998 H.) Fort William iu 43- 44 hrs. (fare $33.20: sleeper $6) and to (1424 M.) Winnipeg in 61 hrs. (fare $41.25; sleeper $S). This line forms part of the great Transeontinental Railway rojite of the Canadian Pacific Railway, the only railway corporation which crosses the entire American Continent from E. to W., a distance, from Halifax (p. 74) to Vancouver (p. 223), of 36G2 M. (6 days; fare $90, or, for p.a«8- encers hooked through from Europe. $70.50: sleeper $24). The distance, from Montroa? to Vancouver is 2^(X5 M., accomplished in less than 5 days (fare $77.30 or $60; slci^tcr $20). Tlu; trains leave Montreal every eveninjj; (at present at 8.20p.iu.), and sleeping-cars run through to Vancouver without change. Holders of through sleeping-car tickets to Vancouver or Mission Junction (p. 222) from any point to the E. of Winnipeg will he furnished, on application to the porter, with checks for 'stop-over' at Winnipeg. BanfF, Laggan, Field, Glacier, Revelstoke, or North Bend. Good meals are provided on dining-cars at 75c. each person. In excellency of rolling- stock and road-bed, in punctuality of service, in the comfort of its sleep- ing-car.s, and in the courtesy of its employees, the C.P.R. stands very high among .American railways. Travellers for pleasure, who lia^'e plenty of time at their dispf'Sal, are advised to go from Montreal to Winnipeg via Ottawa, Toronto, and the, steamer-route descrih^.d in R. 39, as there is comparatively little of interest on the direct rfiiiway Journey. C.P.R. tickets from Montreal^to Winnipeg and all points to the W. of it are available by either route. From Win- nipeg to Banff the railway runo through a prairie-region of wheai-fields and cattle-ranches (comp. p. 199); while the 1 ist 600 M., from Baail to Van- 188 Route 41. PEMBROKE. From Montreal couver. display a gjrandenr and variety of pccnery such as is seen, on so ample a scale, on no other railway in the wnrld (corap. RR. 43, 41). The 'Annotated Time Tahle' of tlie C.P.R., supplied gratis to passen- gers on application (interlcavf^d, if i>referrcd). is the handiest and most practical puhlication of the kind known to the Editor. For tlie C. P. R. •steamship line to Japan^ see p. 222. From Montreal (Wiiidsor 8t. Station) to (120 M.) Ottawa, .<;ee U. 20 a. The train then runs at first towards tlie S.W., soon leavlnfr the Ottavm^ with its lojr-lejrions. At (148 M.) Carleton Place Junction (Station Hotel, willi rest" :rant, $ 1' o), on the Mississippi River, our line turns to tlio rijrht (N.W.) , wliile tlie line to BmckviUe (see p. 148) (liveries to thi- left (S.E.). The \'illa{re of Carleton Place has lar^e saw-mills and railway-workshops. Lake Mississippi, ^y/o M. to the S.AV., contains bass and pike. loS M. ^Umonf^, with 3071 inhah. and thriving; woollen mills ; IGl M. Pakenham. At (172 M.) Arnprior {Charleston, DevinHo., $1' 2; 3B41 inhab.), with its marble quarries, we a^ain reach the Ottawa, near the expansion of the river known *"as tlie Lac des Chats. Good bass-fishin{r is enjoyed here. Below the lake the river forms the fine * Falls or Rapids of the Chats. For the next 150 M. we follow the S. (right) bank of the Ottawa, which forms the boundary between Quebec (N. bank) and Ontario all the way from Lake Temiscamimiue (p. 180) to a point near its mouth. This part of the valley is inhabited by Highland, English, and Ger- man settlers, who gain a liveliliood by farming and the timber-in- dustry. Good fishing, for maskinonge, trout, and bass, is afTorded by the Ottawa itself and by its tributaries. 173 M. Sand Pointy a sum- mer-resort. 100 M. Renfreu' (2611 inhab.) is the junction of lines to (23 M.) Eganrille and to Sharhot Lake (p. 151) and (104 M.) Kingston (p. 184). We now cut off a bend of the river, enclosing the little Musk-Rat Lakes between it and the railway. 224 M. Pembroke (Copeland House, $2), an industrious little town of 4400 inhab., with saw-mills and factories, is the chief place in the upper Ottawa Valley. It lies on the expansion of the river called Allumette Lake, opposite the Isle des Allumettes. A little lower down are Lake Coulonge, with Fort Coulonge on its N. bank, Calumet Island, and the *Calumet Falls. Samuel dt' Champlain, the 'Father of New France', succeeded in ascending the Ottawa Valley as far as the Isle des Allumettes in 1G13. Here he discovered that his guide Vignan was an impostor, who had never been farther up the river than this point. The Algonquin (Ottawa) Indians whom he found here were friendly, hut he was unable to secure their help in pushing his way westwards to Lake Nipissing (p. 189). Tomp. Parkman's 'Pioneers of France'. The river is navigable for some distance above and helow Pembroke, which is an excellent centre for tmnt-fishers. The scenery of the *Nar- 7'otrx. at the head of Lake Allumette, and of the so-called "^Deep Fiver, higher up, is very fine. Beyond Pembroke the valley contracts and hills rise on either side. Tlie district has been but recently cleared and is still very thinly settled. The railway cuttings for many miles to the W. of this point show excellent sections of the Laurentian formations. to Winnipeg. MATTAWA. 41. Route. 189 The rocks shown 'are for the most p^rt highly characteristic red, gray, and dark-banded ^^neisses- felspathic, and hornblendic, and frequently gariietiferous and mi»;aceous. There arc also some large bands of isrra'y'and wiiiie crystalline linic>tone' (Seliryn). — 246 M. Chalk Hirer (Uail. Restaurant), a railway divisional station; '2"»5 M. Bass Lake; 274 M. RjckU/fe. 284 M. Bissett and (297 M.) Deux Rivieres arc excellent points for trout-tishing. The lattiT is 10 M. from the N.E. corner of Algonquin Park (p. 161 ). Picturesque scenery. 318 M. Mattawa (Western Hotel), a town with 1438 inhab., at the continence of the Ottawa and the Mattaira, was formerly a fur- trading post of the Hudson's Bay Co. and is now a distributing point for a large lumbering district and a favourite resort of sportsmen and anglers (comp. p. Ivi). T!ie name means 'The Forks'. Guides, cannos. fishing-tackle, amumnition, and supplies may be ob- tained here by tliuse who wish to shoot or lish in the vicinity. The game includes black, bear, deer, wolves, lynx, wild-cat, wolverine, and wood grouse. Moose and caribou also <»ccur, but may not be killed before 1895. Excellent fishing tor bass and trout may be obtained in the Mattawa River and the innumerable other small streams and lakes in which the district abounds. Comp. "tiporting Notes', by Edwin W. Sumlys. Mattawa is about 40 M. from the fool (S. end) of Lake Tt:inisc(i//iiit(/ue (p. loat and by narrovv-^augc railway. The C.P.R. is now converting this railway to the standard gau^e and prolong- ing it all the way to the lake. The head of the lake may be reached by small steamer in another day. The lake is about 50 M. long and 1-5 Jl. wide. The scenery alon^ this route is very picturesque. Its head may be made, by the enthusiastic sportsman, the starting-point of a canoe-trip among the little-known head- waters of the Ottawa. 8ome account of the wild district between Lake Temiscamingue and Hudson Bay, with its forests, lakes, and streams, still known to few but Indians, is given by Mr. William Ofjilvie in the An- nual Report of the Department ot the Interior for ISJO. About 35 .M. to the \V. of Lake Temiscamingue lies Lake Tuinayamingue^ and about 80 M. to the N. is Lake Abitibbi. The nearest point of Algonquin Park (p. 161) is about 12 M. to the S. of Mattawa. Beyond Mattawa the train leaves the Ottawa and runs to the W. through a wild district of lakes and streams. 344 M. Callander was the point originally tixed on as the E. terminus of the transconti- nental railway, but on the work being transferred from the Govern- ment to the Canadian Pacitic Co. Montreal was selected instead. 360 M. Nipissing Junction (see p. 162). 364 M. North Bay ( Pacific Hotel, $2; Rail. Restaurant), a hn^ht little town with 2900 inhab., lies on the N.E. bank of Lake Nipissing (see below). It is the terminus of the G.T.R. line to the Muskoka District and Toronto described in K. 34. Lake Nipissing (640 ft. above the sea), 55 M. long and 10-20 M. wide, is very irregular in shape, with numerous promontories and islands. The first white man to see it was the Recollet friar Le Caron in 1(314, and Champlain reached it on his second Ottawa expedition in the following year. Steamers ply regularly on the lake, and boats for rowing and sailing can be hired. Its waters abound in maskinonge, pike, bass, and pickerel ; and good shooting and fishing may be obtained in the surrounding country. Korth Bay has thus acquired some reputation as a centre for 190 RouU 41. SUDBURY. From Montreal sportsmen. A small 'summer hotel (closed at present) 'haa been built on Manitou Island, 8 M. from North Bay. The Nipissings, a tribe of Algon- quin Indians encountered on this lake, were known by tlit; French as the 'Sorcerers', on account of their reputed intercourse with demons and th«.T skill in the black art. About 3 M. to the E. of North Bay (good road) lies Trout Lake, 11 11. long and 1 M. wide, the headwater of the JMattawa. It is a favourite resort, well stocked with bass, grey trout, and speckled trout. The lake also possesses a wonderful echo. Lake Kipissing is drained by the French River ^ which' issues from it on the S.W., and flows into Lake Huron after a course of about 55 M. The name commemorates the tact that this was the route by which the early French explorers tirst reached Luke Huron (see p. 181), being debarred by thej hostility of the Indians from crossing Lake Ontario. This route, via the Ottawa, Lake Nipissing, and the French Eiver, formed the regular ap- proach to the Upper Lakes for 150 years. The scenery of the French River is highly picturesque. Lake Tamagamiugue (see p. lS9j lies about 30 31. to the N, of Lake Ni- pissing. The train skirts the N. shore of Lake Nipissing, passing a reser- vation of Nipissing Indians at (^378 M.) Meadowside and crossing the Sturgeon at (387 M.) Sturgeon Falls. 422 M. Hill Crest; 431 M. Wahnapitae (775ft. j ; 436 M. Romford. — 443 M. Sudbury ( 840 ft.; Hotel; Rail. Restaurant), with its smelting-works and 1700 inhab., lies in the midst of rich deposits of nickeliferous pyrrhotite, contain- ing on an average about 2^ 4 per cent of nickel. The value of the ore produced in 1892 was $3,513,339; and, with the increased demand for nickel owing to its new usfj as an alloy for steel, it seems likely that this industry will grow in importance. Copper, cobalt, and a little platinum also occur. Comp. 'The Nickel Ores of Sud- bury', by J. D. Fro?sard (London; 1894). Sudbury is the starting- point of a line to Sault-Ste-Marie (see below). From Sudbubt to Sault-Ste-Makie, 182 M., in 6 hrs. Through-car- riages run by this route from E. points to St. Paul, Minneapolis, and Duluth. — Most of the intermediate stations are unimportant. 72 M. Spanish is the station for (3 M.) Spanish River, a lumbering port on the K. bank of Lake Huron. Our line reaches Lake Huron at (95 M.) Algoma, another timber- trading place. The long island of Manitoulin is seen on the other side of the North Passage. 4-6 M. distant (comp. p. 181). 133 M. 'ihfSialcn; 143 M. Bruce Mines, with deserted copper-mines; 155 M. Echo B(,y. — 17() M. Scjiili-Ste- Marie, Ontario, a quiet little place, with the large International Hotel (comp. p. 182). The train then crosses the Sault River and Canal by a fine bridge, 1 M. long, and reaches — 182 M. Sault-Ste-Marie, Michigan (see p. 182). Beyond Sudbury our train runs towards the N.W., through a sparsely-peopled forest-clad region, seamed with small rivers and dotted with innumerable lakes. For about 70 M. the rocks passed (»ver belong to the lluronian system- To the right, about 3 M. from Sudbury, is the Murray Nickel and Copper Mine. At (461 M.) Larchwood (860 ft.) we cross the Vermilion River. The oval de- pressions visible in the surface of the sandstone rock here are locally known as 'Nanabozhoo's Snowshoe Tracks'. As we near (467 M.) Onnping (1050 ft.) a glimpse of the high falls (160 ft.) of the Ona- ping River is obtained to the right. To the left, beyond Onaping, to WivPipeg. SCHREIBER. 41. Route. 191 Ut^ IVindy Lake or Lake Makoping. 478 M. Cartier ( 1355 ft.) is a divisional station. Keyond (498 M.) Pogamasbig (1145 ft.) we cross Wid Spanish Ri^er (see dbove), vhich here runs between cliffs of red liornblende-granitc, 300 ft. high. 53'2 M. Biscotasing liis on a lake of the same ?iaine. The '..ne iiow follows the heiorht of land", or watershed, between Hudson's l'.ay and the (Jreat Lakes. At (564 M.) Woman River we cross the stream of that name, and beyond (581 M.) Ridout the Apislikauyama. 615 M. Chapleau (Hail. Restaurant), a divisional station, on Lake Kahi^hquashing. to the N, of the water- shed; 644 M. Windermefe. with iron-mines. — At (()T5 M.) Missa- nabie^ where wo cross Dog Lake \ very short portage euunects the streams flowing towards the N. with those descending to Lake Superior. This was an important point for the fur-trade long before the railway was constructed, the Michipicoten Fivt-r, connecting it with Lake Su- perior, and the Moosti River, running N. to James Bay, forming a natural highway between the Great Lakes and Hudson's Bay (conip. p. i6S). Large tiuantities of furs are still brought hither from the N. by the Moose River. The Michipicoten atVords good fi'^Ling. — Gold mines have lately been discovered a little to the S. of 31issanal)ie. Beyond Missaiiabie the construction of the line was atten^led with considerable difticulties, overcome by skilful engineering. Numerous rock-cuttings are passed. The extensive yards at (747 M.) White River (Kail. Restaurant) are for resting cattle on their way to the E. We then follow the White IMver (left) for some distance, and cross it beyond (763 M.) Bremner. To the right lies Round Lake. Farther on we cross the Big Pic River by a lofty iron bridge and reach (802 M.) Heron Bay. at the Ts\E. corner of Lake Superior (see p. 183). For the next 200 M. the railway follows the N. bank of Lake Superior more or less closely. The scenery is rery striking, and the traveller should rise early in order to enjoy it. At many points the line runs on ledges cut out in the side of the fine granite cliffs, which border the shore and often rise to a height of hundreds of feet. Numerous tunnels and bridges are necessary, and the hardness of these ancient and flnely coloured rocks immensely increased the en- gineering difticulties of this part of the railway. The lake is not al- ways in sight, but numerous views of its vast blue expanse are en- joyed. Innumerable streams flovf into its waters frcm the N., nearly all of them affording good sport to the angler. — 811 M. Peninsula; 822 M. Port ColdwelL Farther on we cross the Little Pic River and reach (830 M.) Middleton. — 847 M. Jackfish, at the mouth of the river of the same name and on a fine sweeping bay, is an excellent fishing-station, both for river-trout and for the whiteflsh (p. 183), sturgeon, and lake-trout of Lake Superior itself. A little farther on rises Ogilvie's Butte, one of the most striking of the numerous basaltic protuberances which interrupt the granite formations of the shore. — At (866 M.) Schreiber (Rail. Restaurant) information as to Ashing and guides may be obtained from the Divisional Superintendent (Mr. Hay) or the Divisional Engineer (Mr. Wetmore"). At (880 M.) Rossport we reach the beautiful *Nepigon Bay^ cut off from the main 192 Route 41. FORT WILLIAM. From Montreal body of the lake by a chain of islands. 896 M. Gravel River is another good angliiifr-resort. Trails to these rivers, see p. li. 1)29 M. Sepigon (Taylor's Hotel, $2) lies at the mouth of the Nepiyon Rher^ the largest river tlowiiig into Lake Suptrior and one of tin; most famous trouting streams in Canada. Adjacent lies Red Rock^ a post of the Hudson Bay Co. The railway crosses the river here by a bridge 760 ft. long and 85 ft. high. The Nepigon issues from Lake Nepigori (see below), to the X. of Lake Superior, and in its cour?e of about 40 M. descends 300 ft. and forms throe small lakes. It abounds in speckled trout, which not unfrequently reach a size of 5-8 lbs. One of the favourite resorts of fishermen is Camp Alexander, about 12 M. from Nepigon Station, with which it is connected in the fishing-sea'^on (June 15th-Sept. 30th) by a steam-launch. *Lake Nepigon (685 ft. above the sea), measuring about 70 M. by 50 M. in its longest diameters, is very irregular in shape and contains numerous islands. It is well stocked with whitelish and trout and is a veritable paradise for anglers. The scenery is very fine. Anglers who mean to fish in the Nepigon region are advised to apply beforehand to the Hudson Bay Co.'s agent at Red Rock and inform him of the size of the party and of what is wanted in the shape of guides, canoes, camp-outfit, and the like. The guides are generally Indians (fee $ IV2-2 per ciy). One canoe and two Indians will suffice for two anglers, and the total expeni^e for each person need not exceed $4 per day. Black flies and mosuuitoes are troublesome, especially in the early part of the season, and protections against their bites are indispensable. Comp. 'Sport- ing Notes', bv £. W. Sandys, and ■^'epigon Trout", by W. F. Whitcher (No. 2 of the C. P. "R. Primers i Montreal, 1887). About 3Y2 ^' beyond Nepigon the train rounds the cliff known from its colour as Red Rock. To the left we enjoy a good view across the bay , with the islands of La Grange, lies Verte, and St. Ignace. We then intersect the neck of the promontory jutting out between Nepigon Bay and Black Bay, skirt the latter, and strike direct for Port Arthur, crossing the Black Sturgeon River. Black Bay is bounded on the W, by the bold Thunder Head (p. 183), sheltering Thunder Bay, of which we obtain pleasant glimpses. The intermediate sta- tions are (946 M.) Wolf River, (961 M.) Pearl River, (970 M.) Loon River, and (979 M.) Mackenzie. 993 M. Port Arthur (620 ft. ; Northern Hotel, $3; Algoma, $2; Rail. Restaurant) , a small lake-port, with 2698 inhab. , lies on the W. shore of Thunder Bay in a district rich in gold and silver. Steam- ers run hence to Duluth (see Baedeker s United States). Boating and fishing are obtained in the bay, which, however, is subject to squalls. 998 M. Fort William (600 ft. ; * Kaministiquia Hotel, $ 3 ; Mani- toba Ho., $ 2), the lake-port of the W. section of the C. P. 11. and the terminus of the E. division, lies on the wide and deep Kami- nistiquia, just above its mouth in Lake Superior. Pop. (1891) 3000. This is the point at which passengers who have crossed Lakes Huron and Superior, by steamer (see R. 39) rejoin the railway. The wharf is connected with the railway-station by a lofty foot- bridge. Adjacent are three immense Grain Elevators, with a joint capacity of nearly 33/4 million bushels. Large quantities of grain from Manitoba aud the North-West are shipped here for carriage to Winnipeg. RAT PORTAGE. 41. Route. 193 on the Great Lakes. The picturesque situation of Fort Williams in conjunction with Its boating, fishing, and shooting facilities, attracts many summer-visitors. Adjacent rises the abrupt Mckaxfs Mt. A small post waa established here by Du Luth towards the close of the 17th century, but waa afterwards abandoned. In 1801 it became a port of the Hudson Bay Co., and the old fort is still preserved as an en- gine-house. The Kaministiquia and its connecting waters formed u canoe- route by which the Indians of the North-West brought their furs to the traders. It was by this route that Col. Wolselev transported his forces to Fort Garry in 1870 (see p. 196). Either Port Arthur or Fort William forms good geological head- quarters for the exploration of the Nepigou (Cambrian), Animike (copper- bearing Cambrian), and Huronian rock.s. At Fort William we change from Eastern to Central Time (I hr. slower; comp. p. xiv). To the W. of this point the C. P. R. uses the 24-honr system in its time-tables, counting 1 p.m. as 13 o'clock. Passing West Fort William, the train leaves Lake Superior and enters a desolate rock-strewn region, overgrown with rather scrubby timber. Few settlements or attempts at cultivation are seen, but there is said to be better land at some distance from the railway. Many lakes and rivers are passed. — About 4 M. from (1011 M.) Murillo (945 ft. ) are the fine *Kakaheka Falls, 130 ft. high and 450ft. wide, formed by the Kaministiquia. Murillo is also the station for the Rabbit Mountain silver -mining district. Beyond (1022 M.) Kaministiquia (1010 ft.) we leave the river of that name and ascend along the Mattawan. Names such as (1031 M.) Finmark and (1059 M.) Linkooping (1530 ft.) indioate the presence of a Scandinavian element among the scanty settlers. To the left, at (1075 M.) Savanne (Rail. Restaurant), may be seen some barges abandoned here by Wolseley on his march to Fort Garry (Winnipeg; comp. above). Much difficulty was experienced in making this part of the line from the 'muskegs', or morasses covered over with soil and vegetation, that required to be filled in. — 1080 M. Vpsala; 1088 M. Carlstad; 1110 M. English River; 1128 M. Bonheur; 1146 M. Ignace (1450 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant), a divisional point. We now follow the Wabigoon River, which, with its chain of lakes, affords good fishing. 1196 M. Wabigoon. At (1226 M.) Eagle River are two pretty waterfalls, one on each side of the railway. The whole district is characterised by wild rocky scenery and numerous deep lakes. Beyond (1267 M.) Hawk Lake the large Lake of the Woods (see p. 194) lies to the left. 1291 M. Rat Portage (1085 ft.; Hilliard House, $2; Queen's; Russell Ho., all third-rate), a town with 2000 inhab., is finely situ- ated on the Lake of the Woods, at the point where its waters pour .over a rocky le ige into the Winnipeg, forming a picturesque * Water- fall 20 ft. high. At present Rat Portage is merely a saw and flour milling place and quite in the rough; but with the erection of a good hotel and a few other improvements it might be made a charming summer-resort. To see the Falls, we follow the railway to the bridge and then turn to the right. Baedeker's Canada. 13 194 Routed!. LAKE WINNIPEG. The *Lake of the Woods is a beautiful sheet of water, 65 M. long and 10-60 M. wide, studded with islands and surrnunded by green fortsts risintr at places in hills of considerable size. It was discovered by the French explorers in 16tO, and plays a prominent part in the Ftory of the early voyageurs and coureurs de bou. The 'porta'^'c', named from the colonies of musk-rats, connected the lake with the Winnipeg River. A fteam-ferry plies several times daily from Hat Portage (round trip 2oc.) to Norman and Keewatin (see below), on the other side of the river; and a steamer runs once or twice weekly to Rainy River, at the S. end of the lake. Small steamers and steam-launches make numerous other excursions in summer and small boats may be hired. The Rainy River connects the Lake of the' Woods with Rainy Laie, a smaller body of water (50 M. long), which is said also to be very picturesque. This whole region abounds in excellent fishing and shooting, full particulars of which may be learned at Rat Portage. The titnber cut by the mills on the Lake of the Woods amounts annually to nearly 100,0;jO,000 ft. The train crosses the Winnipeg hy a lofty open-work bridge (falls to the right). 1*295 M. Keewatin (see above), with a hnge flour-mill (capacity 1800 barrels per day) and numerous saw-mills. Between this point and (1303 M.) Ostersund we have two good opportunities of noticing the junction of the Laurentian and Huronian systems. Farther on little of interest is passed. Beyond (1314 M.) Kalmar and (1322 M) Ingolf we leave On- tario and enter Manitoba (p. 196). 1343 M. Rennie; 1363 M. White- mouth, with lumber-mills. The comitry becomes more and more level and the trees more sparse, until we fairly leave the forest region of the East and emerge on the great prairies of the West. Beyond (1389 M.) Bcausejoiir the underlying rocks are concealed by alluvial deposits. 1403 M. Selkirk or East Selkirk, with about 900 inhab., a new Government flsh-hatchery, and quarries of Galena limestone, lies about 18 M. from the S. end of Lake Winnipea, which may be reached hence by stage-coach. Lake "Winnipeg (710 ft. above the sea) is 260 M. long and varies in width from 5 M. to nearly 60 M. Like its companions, Winnipegosis and Manitoba, it is rather shallow, being nowhere more than 70ft. deep. It receives the waters of the Red River and the Saskatchewan, and drains into Hudson Bay through the Nelson River. There are few settlements on its banks except some Icelandic colonies near its 3. en< and some scattered posts of the Hudson Bs.y Co. Steamers ply upon the lake at irregular intervals, but there is little to tempt the ordinary tourist to visit it, though the sportsman might find his account in a properly guided exploration of its banks. The train now turns to the S., following the Red River, which it crosses at (1423 U.) St. Boniface (p. 197). 1424 M. Winnipeg, see B. 42. 42. Winnipeg.^ Arrival. Canadian Pacific Railway Station , Main St. , cor. 11th ive. North (Point Douglas Ave.); Northern Pacific Station, Main St., cor. Water St. Hotels. *The Manitoba, a handsome new structure at the N. P. R. Sta- t The streets of Winnipeg were officially renamed on a numerical system in 1890, but as the old names are still lu general use, they are added in the text (within brackets). Hittory. WINNIPEG. 42. Route. 195 i'on, $3-4; Clarendon t cor. Portage Ave. and 4th St. South (Donald St.), $lV2-3V2i ^»crior to Hudson Kay and the Pacific. This mono- poly, which practically included all the rights of government, was un- disturbed for nearly 2(X) years. The c(mipany divided i'he whole territory into 4 departments, 33 districts, and 152 posts, employing at one time 3000 traders, agents, and voyageurs, besides many thousands of Indians. In bartering with the Indians the unit of account was the beaver-skin, which was the equivalent of two martens or twenty musk-rats, while the pelt of a silver fox was five times as valuable as a beaver. The rule of the company was on the whole beneficial to the Indians, who were not allowed to buy spirits. In 17834 the North-WeH Fur Co. was Parliament House. WINNIPEG. 42. Route. 197 formed at. Montreal, and for & timo it carried on a bitter rivitlry with the H. H. Co. In 1H21, hi>wever, the two c<)inpariii»3 coalesced, retaining the name of the older corporation. Ah population increased in the terri- tory, the [iroprietary tennre (»f the company was felt to be an iinendnr- able anomaly, and in 1.S69 its rights wen* transferred by act of parliament to the Crown, while its territories were incornoraled with the Dominion of Canada in return for a compensation of ;3(lO,(XlO/. The company still retains its postfl and its trade and a ri',;ht to a ct-rtain ]>roj>ortion of lands surveyed for settlement. Nearly opposite the Hudson Hay Co. is the Cromn Timher Office. About Y,'j M. farther on Main St. reaches the Assiiiiboiiie Kiver. In the meantime, liowcvcr, wo turn to th(! rljs-ht and follow Ninth AvKNUE South or Broadway, which leads to ( 72^) the Parliament Buildings, a large and haiidsonui pil«', with wings, mansard roofs, and a low central tower. Visitors art- freely admitted to all parts of the bulMing and to the galleries of the Leyidative ('harnbrr (Manitoba has one chamber only) when the Legislature is in session. — To the left (S.) of thi' Parliament Buildings stands the Lieutennnt-dorernor it Residence, in a similar styhi of architecture; and behind lies Fort fhhome, the military headquarters, with its drill-shed and barracks. To the right (N.) of the Parliament Building, also facing on 8th St. South (Kennedy St.), is the Court House, yet another e,difl('e, with the Inevitable mansard roofs-, and behind the Court House lies the Provincitil (rdol. A little farther alon-^ Broadway, faciiit; the end of Osborne St. , is the Church of All Saints. Following Kennedy St. from the Court House towards the N., we reac;h ( '/;{M. ; 1.) Manitoba College, a large Presbyterian Institution, attended by about 175 students and forming one member of the Vnirersitij of Manitoba. Them^e wi^ may return towards the centre of the town through Ellice St., passing h'nox Church and Orace Church. Among the other buildings of importance in Winnipeg propiT arc the extensive City Hospital in 2nd Ave. North (Baiinatyne St.); St. Johris Episcopal College; the Manitoba Medical College (these two alflliated to the University of Mariitoba); the Provincial Deaf and Dumb Institute, in Portage Avenue; the C. P. R. Land Offices, in the C. P. R, Station (p. 194); St. Mary's Church, in 7th Ave. South (St. Mary's St.), cor. 5th St. South (^llargrave St.); Trinity Church, 4th St. South (Donald St.), cor. Gth Ave. South (Graham St.); and the Manitoba Club, in 2nd St. South (Garry St.). There are several large Flour Mills near the Red River. The finest Private Residences am in the quarters adjoining the Assiniboine, especially in River Avenue, to the S. of that stream. Dufferin Park and Elm Park are two small but pretty pleasure-grounds; and other parks are being acquired and laid out by the city atithorities. St. Boniface, on the opposite side of the Red River, Is a sep- arate municipality with 1553 inhab. , most of whom are French. It was founded in 1818 and is now the Roman Catholic headquartcfrs of N.W. Canada, containing a Roman Catholic Cathedral, an Archi- 1 98 Route 42. WINNIPEG. Environs. episcopal Palace (Abp. Tach^, a Convent^ and an Hospital, all ■ nr the river. A small monument to Louis Riel (p. 196) has boen placed in front of the Palace, and he is buried in the French Cemetery here. About ^3 M. from the river stands St. Boniface College, the Roman Catholic member of Manitoba University, with about 20 students. The Environs of Winnipeg ofler little to detain the lover of pictur- esque scenery, but the sportsman will find good prairie-chicken shooting within a few miles of the town , and by goin'i a little farther afield (e. ff. to Lake Winnipeg or Lake Manitoba) he may get a shot at big game. Information as to equipment, guides, etc. may be obtained at the hotels. — Steamers ply on the Jied River and Assiniboine , but at irregular inter- vals. — A pleasant short excursion may be made to Silver fft.ghts, the model farm of Sir l>onald Smith, situated on the N. bank of the Assini- boine, 41/2 M. from the city. From Winnipeg to St. Paul by the Northern Pacific Railway, 482 M., in I8V2 hrs. (fare $14.20, sleeper S3). This line runs to the S., along the W. bank of the Red River, the valley of which is one of the chief wheat- growing regions of the world, producing in a good year 30-40 million bushels. From (3 M.) Portage Junction a branch-line diverges to the right for (52 31.) Portage-la- Prairie (p. 199), and from (4UM.) Morris another runs to (145 M.) Brandon (p. 200). At 055 M.) Emerson we reach the frontier. 63 M. Pembina (670 inhab.), in N. Dakota, is the first station in the United States (small articles of luggage examined). We here cross the Pendiina River, and continue to follow the Red Kiver Valley. 112 M. Grafton. At (162 M.) Grand Forks (830 ft.; Dacotah Hotel, $2V2 3V2), a railway-centre with 4079 inhab. and manufactures of carpet-sweepers, etc., we turn to the left (E.), cr-ss the Eed River, and enter Minriesota. 189 M. Crookston (Commercial, $2), a city of 5029 inhab., with various industries. — At (257 M.) Winnipeg Junction we reach the main line of the Northern Pacific Railwaii, which we follow to the S. E. to (471 M.) Minneapolis and (482 M.) St. Paul (see Baedeker''s United States). From Winnipeg to St. Pali, by the Great Northern Railicay, 478 M., railway in 20 hrs. (fares as above). This line also ascends the Red River Valley. — The train starts from the C. P. R. Station and runs over the C. P. R. tracks as far as the frontier. At (42 M.) Morris we touch the line abov. described. From (56 M.) Rosen/eld Junction a branch-line runs to the W. to (165 31.) Napinka (through-fare from Winnipeg $8.75). This branch traverses a district largely settled by Mennonites from Russia. — 69 M. Gretna is the last Canadian station, and (71 M.) Neche, on the ■i9th par- allel of N. lat. , is the first in the United States (North Dakota; custom- house examination). We then cross the Pembina. At (108 M.) Grafton we intersect the line described above. From (147 M.) Grand Forks (see above) the G. N. R. has two routes to St. Paul, one on each side of the Red River. Our line remains on the W. side, traversing fine fields of wheat, and at (225 M.) Fargo (900 ft.) intersects the Northern Pacific R. R. Hence to (474 M.) Minneapolis and (485 M.) St. Paul, see Baedeker'"* Handbook to the United States. From Winnipeg to Emerson, 66 M. , Canadian Pacific Railway in 3^2 hrs. (fare $ 2.(j0). — This line ascends the E. bank of the Red River. 3 M. St. Boniface (p. 197); 12 M. St. Norbert; 23 M. Nivertnlle; 31 M. Otter- ()urne; 48 M. Arnaud; 56 M. Dominion City. At (66 M.) Emerson (see above) this line connects with the Minnesota Division of the G.N.R., but the through-trains now run, as above indicated, via Gretna. From Winnipeg to West Selkirk, 23 M., C. P. R. in IVahr. (fare 90 c.). This line runs towards the N. E. , on the W. bank of the Red River. — 8 M. Kildonan, the site of Lord Selkirk's unfortunate colony (p. 193), is a setlement with about 500 inhabitants. 12 M. Pnrkdale; 16 M. Victoria Park; 19 M. Lower Fort Garry., a post of the H. B. Co. — 23 M. West Selk-irk, opposite Selkirk (p. 194), is the nearest station to Lake Winnipeg, the S. end of which lies about 16 M. to the N. and may be reached hence by coach (comp. p. 194). PORTAGE-LA-PRAIRIE. 43. Route. 199 Feom Winnipeg to Stonewall, 20 M., C. P. R. in IV* br. (fare 80c.). This line runs to the N. — Stonewall is a small lumbering village with 500 inhabitants. Feom Winnipeg to Shoal Lake, 40 M., Hudson Bay Railway in 1^/4 hr. This line is the first section of a railway intended to run to the N.. between Lake Winnipeg and Lake Maiiitoha and down the Nelson River ^ to Port Nelson on Hudson^s Bay (about 700 M.). Shoal Lake is a narrow sheet of water, 30 31. long, lyin^ 8-12 M. to the E. of the S. end of Lake Mani- toba. The district is mainly settled by Icelanders and Norwegians. The shooting here is good (moose, elk, deer, prairie chicken, water fowl; conip. p. Ivi). From Winnii'kg to Sockis. 150 M., C. P. R. (S. W. Branch) in 7«/3 hrs. (fare $ 5). — This line traverses a fertile farming district, passing a number of small stations. From Souris (see p. 200) lines run to Reston^ Brandon (p. 200), and Estevan (p. 200). 43. From Winnipeg to Banff. 922M. Canadian Pacific Railway in39-40hrs. (fare $3^.10 ; sleeper $6). From Winnipeg to (1484 M.) Vancouver in 2V2 davs (fare $50; sleeper $ 12). From Montreal to (2346 M.) Banff in 4V2 days (fare $76.50; sleeper § 14). From Halifax and from Montreal to Vancouver^ see p. I'^T. Winni'peg ., see p. 194. The train runs to the W. over a flat and limitless prairie. As far as (40 M.) Poplar Point few settlements or signs of cultivation are visible . most of the land heing held by speculators. Farther on. however, the prairie is covered with vast crops of wheat, offering a singularly imposing sight in harvest. The L^a of trees visible to the left (S.) marks the course of the Assiniboine River. 56 m. Portage - la - Prairie (800 ft. j Grand Pacific, Lelond, Bellevue, $2), a grain-market of some importance, with 4200 inhab., flour-mills, grain - elevators with a capacity of 320,000 bushels, and various manufactures. It lies 15 M. to the S. of Lake Manitoba (see below). From Portage-la-Prairte to Yokktown, 225 M., Manitoha and North- western Railway in 10 hrs. (fare $ 8. 95). — This line runs to the N.W., through a prosperous farming district. 17 M. Wt'sihonrne is only 8 M. from the 8. end of Lake Manitoba, the irregularly shaped lake, 120 M. long, which gives name to the province (comp. p. 196). 35 M. Gladstone. 79 M. Minnedosa. a flourishing little town of .500 inhab., on the Little Saskatchewan. Good shooting mav be obtained in the district. — A branch-line runs to the S. from Minnedosa to (15 M.) Rapid City (see p. 200). — At (138 M.) Birile we enter the upper valley of the Assiniboine. From (155 M.) Binscarth a branch- line runs to (11 M.) Russell, in the Shell River district. — We cross the Assiniboine. 168 M. Harrowby ,189 31. Churcfibridge; 205 M. Saltcoats (200 inhab.), a settlement of Highland crofters. — 225 M. Yorktown. The Manitoba branch of the Northern Pacific Railway runs from Portage- la-Prairie to (53 M.) Portage Junction, where it connects with the N. P. R. line between Winnipeg and St. Paul (see p. IBS). The line now traverses a rough bush-grown district, but beyond (85 M.) Austin reaches the 'Second Prairie Steppe' (seep, xxxviii), another fine wheat-growing region, with an area of 105,000 sq. M. and an average '^titude of 1600 ft. 106 M. Carberry, the chief grain- market for the district. Beyond (114 M.) Sewall we descend towards the valley of the Assiniboine. 127 M. Chater is the junction of the 200 Route 43. BRANDON. From Winnipeg North- West Central Railway to (22 M.) Rapid City (see below). To the S.W. rise the Brandon Hills. We now cross the Assiniboiue and reach — 133 M. Brandon (1190 ft.; Langham, $2-3; Grand View, $2), a substantial-looking little town of 5400inhab., pleasantly situated on high ground. It is the chief grain-market of Manitoba, and its elevators, here, as in most towns of Manitoba, a «;onspicuous feature, have a capacity of 310,000 bushels. The Government has an experi- mental farm here. Central time now gives place to 'Mountain' time, 1 hr. slower (p. xiv). Fkom Brandon to Estevan, 164 M., Can. Pac. Railway in 27 hrs. (night spent at Napinka). — This Hue taps the fertile district of the Souris or Mouse River, which also yields much coal. 24 M. isonris (R?til. Restau- rant) is the junction of a line to Winnipeg (see p. 199), and (58 M.) Na- pijika (see p. 19S) of one to Rosen/eld, on th' line from Winnipeg to Gretna (comp. p. 198). Beyond Napinka the line runs nearly due W. 66 M. Mdita (Rail. Restaurant); 123 M. Oxbow. — 164 M, Estevan. Fkom Brandon to Morris, 145 M., Northern Pacific Railway in 6V4 hrs. — Intermediate stations unimportant. Morris^ see p. IBS. From Brandon to Rapid Citt, 22 M., North-West CVntral Railway in 1 hr. — This line diverges from the G. P. R. at (6 M.) Chater (see above) and meets the Manitoba and N.W. Railway at (22 31.) Rapid City (p. 199). From Rapid City the railway runs to the W. to (60 M.) Beiilah. Beyond Brandon we continue to traverse a well-cultivated and fairly populous district. For about 300 M. we pass through glacial drift overlying cretaceous formations. The Souris branch (see above) diverges to the left at (141 M.) Kemnay. Beyond (165 M.) Oak Lake we leave the Assiniboine valley and ascend somewhat. 180 M. Virden; 197 M. EUcnorn. About 1 M. before reaching (211 M.) Fleming we enter the District of Amnihoia, the first of the North-West Territories. The region known as the North-West Territories of Canada embraces the whole of the vast territory bounded by the I'nited States (49th parallel of N. lat.) on the S., British Columbia and Alaska on the W. , the Arctic Regions on the N., and Hudson's Bay, the 'Unorganized Territory' and Manitoba on the E. (see Map at the end of the Handbook). Its total area is about 1,800,000 sq. M., or larger than all Europe outside of Russia. The Ive 'Provisional Districts' of Astiniboia^ Saskatchewan, Alberta^ Athabasca, and Keewatin have been formed out of the S. and E. portions of the region, but the greater part of it, lying mainly to the N. of 60' N. lat., ha^'s no provincial organisation and has been only half-explored. The N.W. Territories are administered by a Lieutenant-Governor, appointed by the Governor-General of Canada and aided by an Executive Council. These have their seat at Regina (p. 201), whither delegates are sent annually by the above-mentioned provisional districts. The district of Assiniboia has »n area of about 88,500 sq. M. and in- cludes the fertile valleys of the Qti'Appelle and the South Saskatchewan. Several colonies of Highland crofters and others have been established in this district and are doing well, and many towns and villages have sprung up along the railway. Its totrJ white population in 1891 was 30,372. From (219 M.) Moosomin stages run regularly to the N. to (4 M. ) Fort Ellice and to the S. to the (50-60 M.) Moose Mountain District. 235 M. Wabella-, 249 M. Whitewood; 256 M. Perceval. — 264 M. Broadview (1950 ft.; Rail. Hotel, $2), a divisional station at the head of Weed Lake. A number of Cree Indiaris may usually be seen here, from their reserve, extending to the N. from the railway to to Banff. RKGINA. 43. Route. 201 the Qu'Appelle River, — For some distance beyond this point there are few farms near the railway. 280 M. Grenfell; 295 M. Wotseley. — Beyond (^304 M.) Sintaluta we enter the celebrated Beil Farm ( see below), the headquarters of which are at (314 M.) Indian Head. The Bell Farm occupies an area of 100 sq. M.. and the furrows ploughed on it are usually 4 M. long. Wheat-growing has been carried on here with great success. The farm originally belonged to one company, but has now been divided into several holdings. At harvest-time the regular statl" of labourers is largely increased by Sioux and other Indians. From (324M.) Qu' Appelle (2060 U.) a stage runs daily to (17 M.) Fort Qu^Appelle (Hotel), on the QuAppelle River. Good fishing is obtained in the Fishing Lakes into which the t^^'Appelle River expands here, and the shooting of the district is also good. Farther to the N. lie the Touchwood Hills and the Bearer Hills. Beyond Ou'Appelle we traverse a small wooded district. 332 M. McLean (2250 ft.); 341 M. Balgonie; 348 M. Pilot Butte. 357 M. Regina (1875 ft.; Windsor Hotel, from $2), the capital of Assiniboia and the seat of gj ->rnment for the N.W. Territories (p. 200), is a brisk little town of 2300 inhab., with a considerable distributing trade for the country to the N. and S. The Public Build' ings lie to the N. Regina is also tlie headquarters of the North- West Mounted Police, a body of about 1000 picked men, under strict mili- tary discipline, formed to look after the Indians and maintain law and order in the N.W. Territories. The success with which this handful of men, dispersed over so vast an area, performs its func- tions, and the respect with which it is regarded by white men and red men alike, are almost incredible. Many of the force are 'gentle- men' by birth, including a few scions of English nobility. Fkom Begina to Prince Albekt, 247 M., Canadian Pacific Railway in 14 hrs. (fare $ 12.05). — This line runs to the N.W.' through a thinly peopled country, crossing the Qu' Appelle beyond (20 M.) Lumsden. 56 M. Chamberlain; 88 M. Finsbury ; Hi M. Bennington; 136 M. Dtmdurn. At (160 M.) Saskatoon (Rail. Restaurant) it crosses the South Saskatchewan and then runs towards the X. and N.E., through the fertile farming district between this stream ou the E. and the North Saskatchewan on the W. — 178 M. Osier; 189 M. Hague; 200 M. Rosthern; 211 M. Dtick Lake; 229 M. Mac- dowall. — 247 M. Prince Albert, a small farming town with 1360 inhab., situated on the North Saskatchewan, about 30 M. above its junction with the S. branch. The above-mentioned district, between the isjo branches of the Sas- katchewan, was the scene of the Kiel Rebellion of 18S5. The district was largely settled by French half-breeds, who, dissatislied with their treatment by the Dominion Government, rose iu rebellion, induced the neighbouring Indians to join them, and summoned Zouis iZtel (p. 1%) from Montana to be their leader. General MiddUton was dispatched with a body of militiamen and volunteers to put down the rebels, and defeated them at Fish Creek, not far from Hague (see above), and again at Batoche (3Iay 9th, 1885), on the South Saskatchewan, 7 M. from Duck Lake (see above). Riel was taken prisoner three days later, and was hanged, with eight of his Indian followers, at Regina. To the right, about 1 M. beyond Regina station, we see the Lieutenant-Governor's House, and a little farther on, on the same side, are the Headquarters of the North-West Mounted Police (see above). Large wheat-fields are passed. 390 M. Pasqua is tho junction of the 202 Route 43. DUNMORE. From Winnipeg new C.P.R. and Soo-Paciflc line to Minneapolis and St. Paul (see Baedekers United States). 39S M. Moose Jaw (1725 ft.; Rail. Re- staurant), a divisional station, with about 1500 inhabitants. Its Indian name is said to mean 'the creek where the white man mended the cart with a moose-jawbone'. — Along the S.W. horizon extends the Missouri Cdienu (see below). The line ascends steadily and at (433 M.) Parkbeg reaches tlie third of the (treat Prairie Steppes into which the N.W. Territories are divided (p. xxxviii). This steppe ex- tends hence to the base of the Rocky Mts. and has an average alti- tude of 3000 ft. It is, as a whole, more suitable for grazing and stock- rearing than for arable farming. — At (444 M.) Secretan the drift hills of the Missouri Coteau are well displayed. In Dakota aud the >.'.W. Territoriea the so-called 'Continental Moraine' is represented by the Missouri Cdteau, one of the most remarkable results of glacial action in the Dominion. The Coteau des Prairies in Minnesota (see Baedeker's United States) is part of ihe same great natural feature, which may be described as a mass of debris and travelled rocks, 800 M. long, 30-40 wide, and 1000-200l> ft. above sea. Dr. G. M. Dawson, who was the first to recognize the glacial origin of the Missouri Coteau, thinks that, while it may represent a Continental moraine, it is more probably due to a deposit of material from floating ice along the sloping front of the third prairie steppe. 452 M. Chaplin lies on the northernmost of the Old Wives Lakes, two large sheets of water, whicli have no outlet and are somewhat alkaline. Numerous other smaller lakes are passed. The district we are now traversing was the home par excellence of the buffalo, and marks of their trails and wallows may be seen in all directions. Large piles of their skulls are seen at the stations, collected for export as bone manure. Antelopes, coyotes, and prairie dogs are sometimes visible from the car-windows. 'Snow-breaks' are seen at intervals. — 472 M. Morse lies on a salt lake, and (489 M.) Rush Lake lies on a lake of its own name frequented by swarms of geese, ducks, and other waterfowl. There, too, to the right, is one of the large farms of the Canadian Agricultural Co., each of which contains 18-20 sq. M. of land. — 511 M. Swift Current (2400 ft.; Rail. Restaurant) is a divi- sional point. To the left are seen a Government Meteorological Station and the buildings of a sheep-farm of the Canadian Agricultural Co. Stages run hence to the N. to Battleford and other points. Beyond this point the Cypress Hills, a remarkable plateau of cre- taceous rocks capped by miocene gravels, rise to the S. (left) of the line, they are not very prominent in the view, though, towards their W. extremity, they reach a height cf nearly 5000 ft. The district between the railway and the hills is well-watered and excellently adapted for grazing. 546 M. Gull Lake, with a stock-farm of the above-mentioned company ; 597 M. Maple Creek, with large cattle- yards and a station of the Mounted Police ; 616 M. Forres, with an experimental farm of the 0. P. R. — 653 M. Dunmore, with a large 'mixed' farm of the Can. Agric. Co., is the junction of a railway to Lethbridge (see next page). to Banff. MEDICINE HAT. 43. Route. 203 From Dunmoek to Lethbridge, 109 M., Alberta Railteay in 7-8 brs. (fare $5.45). This line runs nearly due W., the C.P.R. here bending to the N.W, At (18 M.) Seven Persons we cross the stream of that name. 32 31. Winifred. At (45 M.) Cherry Coulee we are within 5 M. of the S. Saskatchewan, which flows to the N. of the railway. A little farther up this stream is joined by the Belly River, the valley of which our line ascends. Between (69 M.) Purple Springs and (32 M.) Woodpecker we approach to within 2 M. of the river. — 109 M. Lethbridge {LetUbridge Ho.. Clark s, !?2), a thrivint; town with 21i)0 inhab., pleasantly situated on the Belly River, owes its pro- sperity to the fact that it is the centre of an important coal region, sup- plying a large part of the consumption of coal in the d'untry between Winnipeg' and Lako Superior. About 131,000 tons of coal were raised in 1892, and about half of this was exported t(t Montana (comp. below). Leth- bridge is also one of the outlets of the Machod Ranching District. Fort Macleod (see p. 206) lies 26 M. ti) the W. To the S. of Lethbridge lies the large Reserve of the Blood Indians, a branch of the Blackfeet. From Lethbridge the Great Falls and Canada Railway runs to the S. into Montana, crossing the frontier at (67 M.) Coutts (Rail. Restaurant) and intersecting the new Pacitic line of the Great Northern Railway at (1()4M.) Shelby Junction (comp. Baedektr''s United States). — 199 M. Great Falls., see Baedeker''s United States. From Dunmore the train descends into the valley of the South Saskatchewan, which we cross by a fine steel bridge, 1010 ft. long, at — 660 m. Medicine Hat (2150 ft.: American Hotel., Cosmopolitan Hotel. $2), a thriving little divisional station, with 1000 inhabitants. The train halts here for */2 l^r., and picturesque Indians haunt the station, selling buffalo horns and other curiosities. A den with a large grizzly bear is another attraction. Coal is rained to some extent in this vicinity. Small steamers can descend the Saskatchewan all the way from Medicine Hat to (800 M.) Lake Winnipeg (p. 194). — Beyond Medicine Ilat the train ascends again from the local depression of the river-valley to the prairie-plateau. Between (675 M.) Bowell and (687 M.) Suffield there is a descent, but beyond the latter point we rise steadily. At (695 M.) Lanyevin wells of natural-gas have been simk, and the gas is used in pumping water for the railway. The higher summits of the Rocky Mts., 150 M. distant, are said to be visible in clear weather. Just beyond Langevin we enter the 'provisional district' (see p. 200) of Alberta, which has an area of 105,355 sq. M. and contained 25,277 inhab. in 1891. The endless green prairie is mainly used for cattle-ranches, though a few farms are also passed. From (758 M.) Bassano to Calgary the Laramie sandstone is seen overlying the Cretaceous rocks. The trees outlin- ing the Bow River are visible to the S. (left), and at (766 M.) Cro\r~ foot, named after a famous Blackfoot chief, we reach its bank. This part of the railway is bordered on the S., for about 40 M., by the large Reserve of the Blackfeet Indians, formerly one of the most war- like tribes but now living as peaceable farmers. They number about 4000. Their picturesque forms may often be seen at the railway- stations. Beyond (785 M.) Gleichen (2900 ft.) the snowy peaks of the Rocky Mts. come into full view towards the W. and S.W. As we approach Calgary the Bow River is seen to the left. 204 Route 43. . CALGARY. From Winnipeg 840 M. Calgary (3390 ft. ; Alberta Hotel, $ 3 ; RoyaL Windsor, $2), a thriving little prairie town of 4600 inhab., provided with elec- tric light and other modern conveniences, is largely built of a fine light-grey building-stone found in the neighbourhood, which gives it a handsome and substantial appearance. It lies on the S. bank of the Bow River, at its confluence with the Elbow. Calgary is the trading centre of an immense stock-raising region, and the chief supply- station for the mining districts in the mountains. It is also an im- portant station of the North-West Mounted Police and of the Hudson Bay Co. The population contains a large proportion of a good class of English settlers, and offers more of the refinements of life than most Western cities of so recent origin. A little to the S.W. of the town is the large Reserve of the Sarcee Indians. The possibility of successfully raising horses, cattle, and sheep on the elevated plateau of which Calgary is the centre is largely due to the fact that the winter temperature is considerahly higher than that of Manitoba and other points to the K. This is mainly owning to the intloence of the warm Chinook Wind (resembling the Alpine Fohn)^ which blows down from the mountains. 'The bunch-grass'' of the prairie cures itself as it stands and forms excellent foraj:e in winter. 'The prevailing winds (on the Pacific Coast) are from the West and in striking the coast range they are deflected upwards 5 the expansion of the air resulting from the decrease of atmospheric pressure causes a dimi- nution of temperature. As soon as the point of saturation or dew point is reached, the moisture is precipitated in the form of rain. After passing over the coast range, the air comes down into the slightly lower region around Kamloops, and, being heated by the compression consequent upon increased atmospheric pressure, it is much above dew point, so that it is always dry. Pursuing its course eastwards, it soon strikes the western slope of the Selkirks, the highest range of the Rocky Mountains; the air is again forced upwards ; and on coming to the altitude of the summit of the coast range, dew point is reached and rain precipitated. It con- tinues to fall as long as the air ascends, that is until it has passed over the summit. This explains whv there is more rain on the western than on the eastern sides of the Coast and Selkirk ranges. Still pmceeding eastwards the wind passes the summit of the Rocky Mountains, the air descends into the plains of the North-West 7i.'erritories and is heated by the compression due to greater atmospheric pressure, but having previously absorbed the latent heat given up by the moisture which fell as rain on the Coast range and the Selkirks, it is now at a much higher temperature than it was when at the same altitude on the western side of the moun- tains^ it is also much above dew point. This is the explanation of the dry climate of the western plains and of the paradoxical Chinook winds, which appear as if warmed by passing over numberless fields of snow and ice' (E. Deville). Fbom Calgakt to Edmonton, 192 M., Can. Pac. RailvBoy in 11 hrs. (fare $0.70). — This line runs nearly due N. from Calgary into the valley of the North Saskatcheican. A view of the peaks of the National Park (p. 2(^8) is obtained to the left as we leave Calgary, 20 M. Airdrie; 48 M. Didsbvry; .58 M. Olds; 67 M. Botcden^ on a small lake. Farther on we descend the valley of the Red Dm' River (left), crossing it near (99 M.) Red Deer Station. Beyond (130 M.) Fonoka, to the W. of which is the Reserve of the Sharp Head Indians, we cross the Battle River and traverse the reserve of the Sampson, Ermine Skin, a,nd Bob- Tail Indians. To the left rise the Bear Hills. 152 M. Wetaskiwin; 174 M. Leduc. We then cross the Papas Chase Indian Reserve. — 192 M. Edmonton (Hotel), a thriving little settlement on the N. bank of the yorth SaskatcJietcan.. is the centre of a prosperous farming district and an important focus of the fur-trade. On a bold bluff above the town stands to Banff. FORT McPHKRSON. 43. Route. 205 a picturesque stockaded Fort of the Hiidson Bay Co. The l>i$irict of Ed- monton contained 6875 inhab. in 1891. Alluvial gold, with i). 44. From BanflF to Vancouver. 560 M. Canadian Pacific Railway in 27 hrs. (fare 328.95; sleeper ?6). Through-trains and fares from Halifax and Mf^ntreal, see p. 1S7. This sectiiin of the Canadian Pacific Railway has prdbably grander and more varied scenery to show than any equal length of railway in the world. There is not a dull or uninteresting minute all the way from B;(iilT to Vancouver, while ihe daily service of trains in each direction is so ar- ranged <".s to pass the least beautiful part at night. In the long days of summer, however, the early riser need not miss very much. In the se.ison the wild flowers add greatly to the attractions. Observation cars are attached to the trains. The traveller is strongly recommended to break this journey by stopping at least one niglit at Glacier (p. 214) ;ind one at Field (p. 212). Banff ^ see p. '207. The train runs at first towards the W., with the winding Bow to the left and the Vermilion Lakes (p. 210) to the right. Fine retrospects. Ahead rise, Mt. Massive and the other moun- tains enclosing Simpsons Pass. We then turn to the right, and the ledge of Pilot Mt. (9130 ft.) becomes conspicuous in front (left). To the right is Hole-in- ihe- Wall Mt. (ToOG ft.), showing an enormous cave roofed by a i erf ect arch. At (6 M.) Cascade (4475 ft.) we quit the Rocky Mt?. Park and obtain a fine view of Castle Mt. (see below) on the right front. 17 M. Castle Mountain Station (4570 ft.), a half- deserted mining settlement, lies at the foot of Castle Mt. (8iS50 ft.), which towers to the right. To the left we now obtain, where oj enings in the woods allow, fine ^iews of the grand Bow Bange, including Pilot Mt. (see above), Copper Mt. (8500 ft.; these two behind us), Mt. Temple (beyond the gap of the Vermilion Pass), and the imposing peak of *Mt. Lefrny (11,060 ft.). Near ('24 M.) FMon (4720 ft.) the whole range is in sight. To the right, beyond Castle Mt., are the Slate Mts., a fore-post of the Sawhack Range. '27 M. Silver City. — 34 M. Laggan (4930 ft), finely situated at the foot of Mt. Lefroy. To the rij:ht opens the Upper Valley of the Bow, between Mt. Hector and Coat Mt. on the right and the Waputtehk Mts. to the left ; and by looking up this gap, we see the first of the great glaciers visible from the railway, about 12 M. off and 1300 ft. above us. Laggan is the station for a visit to the three Lakes in the Clouds, in the Bow Valley. A road (stage there and back $ 2), and also a (shorter) bridle-path, lead to (23/4 M.) 'Lake Louise ('800 ft.), 2'/2 M. long and 3/4 M. wide, magnificently situa'ed at the base of the stupendous glacier- clad Mt. Victoria. There is a small C/ialet ($ 21/2-3, meals 75 c.) on the banki where fly-l shcrs and o'.her visitors may obtaia accouimodatioa and 14* 212 Route 44. FIELD. From Banff camping outfits. One of its striking beauties is the various tints of green it shows in diflferent lights and from different points of view. A visit should be paid to the face of the stupendous ^Glacier of Mt. Lefroy^ 3 M. from the chalet and 650 ft. above it. The greater part of the discharge of the glacier enters the lake under the debris of tlif moraine. A bridle- trail has been cut from the chalet round Great Mt., on the left side of Lake Louise, to (6 M.) the liase of Mt. Lefroy. From Lake Louise we may walk or ride (1 hr.) to Mirror Lake (so called from its wonderful reflec- tions) or ShndotD Lake (6itiO ft.), and thence we may walk to Agnes Lake (ca. 6700 ft. ; shelter-hut, rfmts. in summer). These lakes lie on the side of Mt. Whyte, to the N.W. of Lake Louise. A tine cascade falls from Agnes Lake to Mirror Lake. The most prominent of the peaks round Agnes Lake are the Beehive OtXiA the Devil's Thumb, a spur of Mt. Whyte. All three lakes are often visited from Banff (p. 207). Lake Louise abounds in small trout, but there are no (ish in the other lakes. Full information may be obtained from. W. J. Astley, Laggan. At Laggan we cross and leave the Bow and ascend to the left along a tributary named Noo'es Creek. The train pants slowly up the steep incline, aided by an extra engine in the rear. The summit, marked by a rustic arch inscribed 'The Great Divide' and by a small lake (both to the left), is reached at (41 M.) Stephen (5'295 ft.). We here enter British Columbia (see p. 227). We then at once begin the abrupt descent, passing (48 M.) Hector (5190 ft.) and the Wapta Lake, just beyond which, to the right, at riirht angles to the line, is a long, sharp, brown ridge, whicli the railway men very appro- priately call the Broadaxe. To the left, at Hector, tumbles down the well-named Cataract Stream, about 10 min. up which is a curiously perched boulder, forming a sort of loophole through which part of the stream foams. The wild and beautiful *Kicking-Horse or Hector Pass , which we now enter , is traversed by the white and foaming Wapta or Kicking- Horse , dashing far below us to the right, while to the left tower the rocky walls of the Cathedral (10,285 ft.) and *Mt. Stephen (10,425 ft.; named after the first President of the C.P.H.), the latter one of the noblest summits in the Rocky Mts. To the right opens a magnificent *View of the N. branch of the Wapta. with a huge gla- cier, 9 M. long, amid the mountains to its left (W.). [A pack-trail leads through this wonderful valley to Hoicse Pass.^ As we proceed, a fine green glacier, 500 ft. thick, is seen to the left, high up on the shoulder of Mt, Stephen. The works of a silver mine are also seen on the side of Mt. Stephen, several hundred feet above us. We pass through a short tunnel. The gradient between Stephen and Field is so steep (1 :22), that three large and powerful locomotives are some- times required to take an ordinary passenger train up the incline. 51 M. Field (4050 ft. ; *Mt. Stephen House, $ 3, meals 75 c), a tiny hamlet on the left bank of the Wapta, closely hemmed in by lofty and imposing mountains. On the one side is Mt. Stephen (see above), on the other rises the massive Mt. Field (8565 ft.). Looking down the pass, towards the S.W., we see the Van Home Range to the right and the Ottertail Mts. to the left. The little hotel is well kept, and good fly-flshing may be had in the neighbourhood. to Vancouver. DONALD. 44. Route. 213 Mt. Stephen (10.425 ft.) may be aacended from Field in one long day, liut it is better to take two days for it, camping fur the night at tlie timber line. The "View is superb, with the Selkirk 3Its. (see below) to the S.W. and the immense snow-field marking the summit of the Rockies to the N. (across the North Fork Canon), — Mt. Carnarvon (9350 ft.), one of the highest of the Van Home Range (see below), also commands a splendid view. The ascents of these and other adjacent mountains are diflicult and should nut be 'Attempted except by experts, and never alone. Among the easier excuraions from Field are the walks to the Crysial Cave., the ^Natural Bridge across the Kicking Horse, and (7 31.) Emerald Lake (trout-lishing; grouse and partriilge shooting). The line continues to descend through the valley of the AV'apta, crossing the Ottertail (*Vie\v). 58 M. OtteriaU (:5700 ft.). The most prominent summits of the Van Home Mts. (r.) are Mt. DeviUe anil Mt. King. To the left are the Otttrtail Mts.^ culminating in the gla- cier-scarred Mt. Vaux (10,340 ft.). Fine retrospects. At (04 M.) LeanrhoU (3750 ft.), near the junction of the Beaver foot with the Wapta, the line turns abruptly to the right (N'.) round Mt. Hunter, and descends the *Lower Canon of the Wapta, which also turns to the N. To the S. extends the Beavcrfoot Range. The train passes repeatedly back and forward over the whirling torrent and at places breaks through the angles of the lofty hemming cliffs by short tunnels. The finest part of this wonderful echoing canon is the lower end, near the mining town of (85 M.) Golden ('22r)0 ft.; Kootenay Ho.; Queen's), with 600 inhab., situated at the point where the Wapta enters the broad Columbia River. Steamers ascend from Golden to (2(X) M.) the headwaters of the Co- lumbia, whence roads and trails lead into the Kootenay Dittrv-t (p. 218). Gold and silver are mined at Golden and at several points farther up the rivtr. Good shooting may be enjoyed in autumn. Our line turns abruptly to the right (N.) and descends the open valley of the Columbia, here dividing the Rocky Mts., on the right, from the *Selkirk Mts., which now rise in all their grandeur to the left. The light-green stripes mark the paths of avalanches (comp. p. 2;i0). 91 M. Moherley (2540 ft). Several saw-mills are passed. 102 M. Donald (2530 ft.; Forrest Ho., Selkirk Ho., $2; Rail. Hotel and Restaurant), the terminus of the Western Division and the beginning of the Pacific Division of the railway, consists mainly of a group of railway offices and official residences. It is finely situated at the base of the Dogtooth Mts., a spur of the Selkirk Range, and offers good headquarters for the sportsman. We change here from 'Mountain' to 'Pacific' time (1 hr. slower; romp. p. xiv). Beyond Donald we cross the Columbia and thread a narrow rocky *Gorge, with the river flowing furiously to our right. Emerging from this ravine at (^113 M.) Ucai-ermouf/i {2500 ft. ), we turn abruptly to the left (S.), quit the Columbia, pass through the ^Beaver (j/ate. and ascend rapidly on the left bank of the impetuous Beaver Creek. The hills on the opposite bank are clothed with timber, including gigantic spruces, cedars, and Douglas firs. At (119 M.j Six-Mite Creek (2900 ft.}, at the bridge over the Mountain Creek, 2^2 M^« beyond , 214 Route 44. GLACIER HOUSE. . From Banff and from a lofty bridge over a foaming cascade still farther on, we have good views of six or eiglit peaks of the Selkirk Range, dominated by the Matterhorn-like Sir Donald (p. 216). Numerous side-torrents are crossed, including the (126 M. ) Stony Creek, spanned by a bridge 295 ft. high. At (128 M.) Bear Creek (3500 ft.) we leave tlie Beaver, here nearly 1000 ft. below us, and ase followed along to the S. The *View from the top of Mt. Abbott (7804 ft.) is a complete panorama of the surrounding peaks, including Mt. 216 Route 44. ASULKAN GLACIER. From Banff Bonney, risinp; from its glacior to the S. W., Sir Donald to the E., and the peaks of the Dawson Range, showing over the nearer glacier-clad ranges to the S. To the N. the deep ravine, 4(X)U ft. below the spectator, through which the Illecillewaet river winds along, completes the scene. In ascend- ing or descending, the little tarn named Marion Lake should be visited. Its placid surface mirrors the forest and mountain-peaks to perfection. 2. Great Snow-Field of the Illecillewaet Glaciek. This expedition should not be undertaken by those (juite unacquainted with the dangers of glacier travel unless under projier guidance. The ascent is made along the path leading to the glacier and continued up the steep moraine on the right bank of the ice-fall. As we approach the mountain-spur coming down from the direction of Sir Donald some few steps may have to be cut if the snow is not in good order for walking, but in 4-5 hrs. from the hotel the upper snow is reached at Perley Bock^ and by avoiding the crevasses which exist we muy cross its undulating surface and from any of the small eminences which bound it on the E. obtain a magnificent *View of the Datoson Range and the Prairie Hills beyond Beaver Creek. Ample time should be nllowed for the return -journey , as the snow- slopes may require more care in the afternoon than in the morning, and it would not do to get benighted amongst the boulders of the moraine. 3. The Asulkan Pass. The valley leading to this pass is one of the gems of the district and is reached by a good path from the inn. The path, after traversing a forest-clad ravine and crossing the river more than once, enters a wide amphitheatre, where grassy levels, sombre forests, and precipices down which innumerable sparkling cascades plunge from the snow-slopes and glaciers above, combine to form a per- fect fairy - land of beauty. At the upper end of the valley the track climbs a steep mountain spur, and leaving the forest the traveller is confronted by the high moraine of the "^Asulkan Glacier. Marmots abound, and their shrill cries of alarm may be heard on all sides. Flowers such as the bright red Cattelia Miniata give brilliance to the scant vege- tation, which disappears altogether ere the ice is reached. The glacier must now be crossed, dangerous crevasses avoided, and the ascent con- tinued to the *A8ulkan Pass (7794 ft,). The Dawson Bange, with Alts. Fox and Donkin as outliers, is immediately in front. The Geikie Gla- cier, the main source of a large river (probably the Lardo)^ fills the deep ravine below. Mountain goats may be met with on the slopes on the 8. side of the pass. To advance farther than this point will involve an immediate descent of near 3000 ft. to the glacier, and as this cannot be accomplished in the day, the return-journey must be commenced. It will probably take an hour less than the outward journey, so that 10-12 hrs. is ample time for the whole of the expedition. The higher mountain peaks of this range must be attempted only by those who have had considerable experience in mountain-climbing. Mt. Sir Donald. On July 26th, 1890, the first ascent of *Mt. Sir Donald (10,662 ft.) was accomplished by Messrs. Huher and Sulzer. of the Swiss Alpine Club, accompanied by a packer from Donald named Cooper. They started from a camp below the cliffs of the mountain facing Glacier House, and, ascending by the small glacier to the S. W. of the peak, crossed over to the S. E. ridge of the mountain, by which they reached the summit in 7 hrs. from their camp. The descent took much longer than the ascent, and they describe the expedition as one of great difficulty. Comp. account by 3Ir. lluber (see p. 214, note). Mt. Bonnet. This mountain was climbed for the first time on Aug. 9th, 1888, by the Bev. Win. S. Green and the Rev. Henry Swamy. After a preliminary reconnaissance on the 7th, the ascent was made from the valley opening at 'The Loop'' by the first small glacier descending from the ridge connecting Mt. Bonney with Eoss Peak. The chief difficulty in the ascent was climbing a sharp peak to the N.W. of the main summit, which had to be traversed ere the summit of Mt. Bonney (10,622 ft.) could be reached. From a camp near the head of the valley the ascent and descent occu- pied abont lo hrs., including an hour spent on the summit. Mt. Purity and Mt. Sugar Loaf are the farthest peaks from Glacier to Vancouver. REVELSTOKE. 44. Route. 217 House, which have as yot been reached. They were liscondcd. as wore also Mts. Deville, Fox, and Donkin, \>y Mmrs. Tvphain and Forsttr in 189<>. This region was reached by foUowin-.' the Prairie Hills to the E. of Bearer Creek and striking into the main ranjre far to the S. A peak in the Roger$ Raiige was also reached by the Swiss party named above, from the station at Rogers Pass, ond was in their opinion of equal heipht with Mt. Sir Donald. In any of these more extended expeditions just described the traveller should bring his tent, blankets, cooking-utensils, and main store of pro- visions from Calgary or some town farther to the E,, or, if he is coming in the opposite direction, from Vancouver. Besides the expeditions which may be made in the section of country through which the railway runs, other portions of the Selkirk range m:iy be entered by ascending the Columbia by the steamer from Golden (see p. 213) and working up any of the valleys which drain towards the head- waters of the Columbia or Kootenay. For hunting-purposes these routes will probably be the best, but the difficulty in the way of reaching the higher portions of the range will be much greater, except in the Spili- michene Vallty fp. 219>, up which a bridle-trail now leads to a mine. Continuing the descent from tlie Glacier House, we soon reach tlie *Loop, 'where the line makes several startling turns and twists, first crossing a valley leading down from tlie Koss Peak glacier, touching for a moment on the base of Koss Peak, then doubling back to the right a mile or more upon itself to within a biscuit's-toss \ then sweeping around to the left, touching Mt. Clieops, on the other side of tlie Illecillewaet, crossing again to the left, and at last shoot- ing down the valley parallel with its former course and along the base of Cougar Peak. Looking back, the railway is seen cutting two long gashes, one above the other, on tlie mountain-slope, and far- ther to the left, and high above the long snow-shed, the summit range, near Rogers Pass, is yet visible, with Sir Donald overlooking air. — The Illecillewaet is a slender mountain-torrent, foaming over its rocky bed , first on one side and then on the other. The water is at first a dull green from the glacial luud, but it becomes much clearer as it descends. Beyond (144 M.) Boss Peak Siding (3600 ft.) we reach a long tunnel-like snow-shed. At (153 M.) Illecillewaet (3595 ft.) are several silver-mines. About 5 M. farther on, the train halts for a few minutes at a small platform, to enable •passengers to look down into the depths of the * Albert Canon, where the Illecillewaet boils and foams through a 'flume' 2U ft. wide and .300 ft. below the railway. At (159 M.) Albert Canon Station (2845 ft.) an extra-engine is put on to push eastward-bound trains up the ascent. 169 M. Twin Butte takes its name from the huge double summit to the left, now named Mt. Mackenzie (7930 tt.) and Mt. Tilley. The line has here gained the level of the river. To the right towers the fine peak of Clach-na-Cudden. named after the fa- mous 'stone of the tubs' at Inverness (see Baedeker^s Great Britain). The valley contracts once more to a narrow gorge, through which there is barely room for the river and railway to pass side by side, and expands again as the Illecillewaet nears its end in the Columbia. 18iM.Eevel8toke(1475ft.; Victoria, $21/2-3; Union, $lV2-'2; 218 Route 44. GOLD KANGK. From Banff Central, Odumhia . $1-1V2)» a (divisional station, lies on the left bank of the Columbia, whi. below), and has a large smelter. A Steamku, !ied by farmers and ranchiiieu and al-^o affords excellent deer-shooting. 46 M. Fernon (Kalenikala Ho.; Coldslreani) is tlie chief distributing centre. Tlie present terminus ol the railway i.s at Okanagan LaiuHny, at the head of Okanagan Lake (1200 ft.), a narruw sheet of water 70 M. long and about 3 M. wide. Steamers ply to various points on the lake. To the S. of the lake, beyond Penticton^ are several mining-camps. Beyond Sicamous the railway winds round various arms of Lake Shuswap, tlie scenery of which recalls the Scottish lochs. Beyond the Salmon Arm we leave the lake, to cross the intervening ridge of Notch Hill (1710 ft.), but regain it at (276 M.) Shuswap, on the so- called Little Shuswap Lake. From the W. end of the lake issues the South Thompson River^ a wide and deep stream, the S. bank of whicli we skirt. The valley widens, and signs of settlement and cultivation reappear, forming a pleasant contrast to the mountain-wilds we have been traversing. The villages of the Shuswap Indians are on the farther bank (comp. above). 292 M. Ducks. 309 M. Kamloops (1500 ft.; Dominion; Grand Pacific; Cosmo- politan)^ a town of about 1500 inhab., is a railway divisional station, the centre of supply for an extensive mining and grazing district, and the seat of carriage-works, a soda-water factory, '^aw-mills, and a tannery. It derives its name, meaning 'confluence', from its posi- tion at the junction of the N. and S. branches of the Thompso]i. Opposite, in the angle formed by the two rivers, lies an Indian village, at the base of PauVs Peak (3570 ft.). Kamloops was founded by the H. B. Co. Those who stop at Kamloops should visit Duferin Hill (3200.ft.), 3V'.' M. to the W., which commands a splendid 'View. The summit may he reached on horseback, but drivers have several hundred feet to climb from the road. 220 Route 44. A8 M.) Drynoch (700 ft.) we pass tlirongh tlie *Thompson Canon, perhaps the most wonderful part of tlie river. The Coast or Cascade Mis. now rise ahead of us. At (404 M.) Lijiton ((i75 ft.) the Thompson joins the Fraser River ^ its pure green stream long refusing to mix with the turbid yellow water of the latter. The Froser, the chief river of British Columbia, rises on the E. slope of till Rocky Mtf?., in about 53" N. lat., not far from the source of the Athabasca (p, 205j. It flows at first towards the N.W., then turns sharply upon itself and mns nearly due S. for about 300 M., finally bending to the W., cutting throujih the S. part of the Coast Range, and entering the Strait of Georgia (p. 224) after a course of over 600 M. It was reached in 1793 by Alex. Mackenzie, who took it for part (if the Columbia, but is named from Simcu Fraser, of the N.W. Fur Co., who explored it to its mouth in 1808, in the facc of enormous difficulties from natural causes and hostile Indians. Above Lillooet (p. 220) the river is navigable: and steamevs ascend thence to the Cariboo District (p. 220). The Coast Range, which we reach at the Fraser River, is often im- properly regarded as a continuation of the Cascade Range of Oregon and Washington, from which it is both orographically and geologically distinct. It really begins almost exactly on the S. boundary of British Columbia and rung thence to the N.W. for 900 M., with an average width of 100 M. Many of its summits are 7-SOOO ft. high, while some exceed 9000 ft. The rocks composing it are chiefly granite. Slost of the range is densely wooded. The largest of its numerous glaciers are those descending to the sea on the Alaska coast (comp. p. 235). We now descend the *Grand Canon of the Fraser, by whicli the river pierces the Coast Range (see above). The river is com- pressed into a narrow bed far below the railway and rushes with tremendous rapidity. The cliffs on either side rise for hundreds of feet. The line follows the E. bank for about 6 M., then crosses the gorge by a lofty cantilever bridge, and threads a tunnel. High up on the E. side of the river runs the old Government Road to Cariboo (p. 220), which, about 6 M. below (411 M.) Cisco, is 1000 ft. above the surface of the water. The canon grows narrower and deeper as we proceed. Among the objects seen from the car-windows are Chinamen washing for gold, Indians spearing or fishing for sal .ion, bright red split-salmon drying on frames, Chinese cabins, and Indian villages with their beflagged graveyards. Lower down, the river con- tains large sturgeon as well as salmon. 420 M. Keefer^s. 431 M. North Bend (425 ft.; '^Fraser Canon House, $3, meals 75 c), a railway divisional point, where the train halts for supper (or breakfast), lies at a point where the walls of the canon recede a little. The sportsman or angler will find comfortable quarters here. — About 4 M. farther on, at Boston Bar, with a deserted town on the E. bank, begiiis the wildest part of the canon, the river rush-' 222 Route 44. NEW WESTMINSTER. From Banff iiig tuDiultuously through its narrow rock-cribbed bed 200 ft. below the railway. Numerous short rock-tunnels are passed in rapid suc- cession ; and names like HeUgate Rapids and Black Canon mark the character of the scenery. At (446 M.) Spuzzum the gorge is crossed by the graceful suspension-bridge of the old 'tote' road (see above), which now runs alongside the railway. It is in a very dilapidated condition and is hardly used except as an Indian trail. At the foot of the canon, just beyond a longish tunnel, lies (457 M.) Yale (200 ft.; Hotel), an old trading-town, finely situated on a bench at the foot of the mountains, at the head of the navigation of the Lower Eraser. The valley now loses its canon-like character, and the river becomes wider and more placid. To the left the silver-bearing Hope Peaks rise above the village of (471 M. ) Hope, which lies on the E, bank of the river. Excellent trout-fishlng is obtaiued in the Nicolume River, which joins the Fra-er here. — A picturesque trail, crossing u rugged watershed at a height of 5800 ft., leads from Hope to the Similkameen Country (p. 220). The railway and river here turn to the right (W.), completing the passage of the main ridge of the Coast Range. The valley con- tinues to expand, and signs of civilized cultivation become more and more frequent. 478 M. Ruby Creek is named from the garnets found near it. Fine views are enjoyed of various spurs of the Coast Range. 489 M. Agassiz (50 ft.), with a Government experimental farm, is the station for Harrison Hot Springs (St. Alice Ilotel) , at the foot of ^Harrison Lake, 5 M. to the N. (stage $ 1 ). On the oppo- site bank of the Eraser rises Cheam Peak. A small steamer plies on Harrison Lake. — Near (498 M.) Harrison (40 ft.) we cross the glacial-green Harrison River , here expanded to a lake, just above its confluence with the Eraser. This offered the only practicable approach to the Cariboo region before the opening of the Eraser route in 1864. — Beyond (507 M.) Nicomen we obtain a distant view of the isolated white cone of Mt. Baker. 517 M. Mission Junction is the starting-point of a line crossing the Eraser and running to (10 M.) Sumas City, on the International frontier, where connection is made with railways to New Whatcom, Everett, Seattle, and other points in the United vStates. Return-tickets are issued at Montreal, New York, Chicago, etc., allowing travellers to travel one way through the United States via this route. — Other fine views of Mt. Baker (left) are obtained as we proceed. 526 M. Wharnock; 535 M. Hammond, with brick-yards. — 542 M. West- minster Junction (Hotel), for a short line to (8 M.) New Westminster. New Westminster {Queen's, $2-3; Colonial Ho., $2; cab from railway or ferry to hotel 50 c), a city with 8000 inhab., pleasantly situated on the right hank of the Fraser River, about 15 M. from its mouth, is the oldest settlement in this region, dating from 1853, and carries on a large business in salmon-canning and the sawing and shipping of lumber. Its industrial establishments include iron works, foundries, machine-shops, carriage works, a woollen mill, etc.; and the total value of their output in 1891 was $ 1,408,452. New Westminster was the capital of British Columbia for several years, and contains the Provincial Fenitentiary and Insane Asylum, to Vancouver. VANCOUVKH. 44. Route. 223 the Royal Hospital^ and other public institutions. Queeiis Park, 80 acres in area, contains athletic ground.'^ and exhibition buildings. The Public Library is we31 equipped. Small steamers ply hence to Victoria (p. 225), Vancouver (p. 223), Nanaimo (p. 228), and points on the Fraser River. A visit should be paid to one of the canning-factories, of which there are fifteen on the Fraser, between the city and the Strait of Georgia. Longer excursions may be m- de to (6 M.) Burrard Inlet (see below), Pitt Lake (20 M.), and Boundary - /y (21 M.). Our line now bends to the riglit ann of a corps of I'oyal Artillery and Engineers. It is the head- quarter? of the Canadian fur-'^caling fleet, which consists of about 70 vessels and caught 46,302 seals in 1892. The *Government Buildings, built in a Swiss style, lie in a square adjoining James /iay, an arm of the harbour, and are passed on the way from the steamboat- wharf to the centre of the town (tramway, see above). They include the Parliament House, the Pro- vincial Museum^ and the Government Offices. In front stands a monument commemorating Sir James iJouylas^ the first governor of the colony. The Museum (open 9-12 and 1-4 ; Sat., 9-1) contains specimens illustrat- ing the geob gy and natural history of the cobmy. — Admission to the sittings of Parliament (one chamber only) is easily obtained (comp. p. 45), Kew Parliament Buildings an). The scenery on this line is bold and impressive. The work of construction was attended by con- siderable difficulty, and numerous high bridu'es and trestles were ne- cessary. [This is at present the only railway on Vancouver Island, but another one is in progress from Victoria to Sydney.) — The first station is (4 M.) Esquimau (p. 227). 11 M. Goldstream' {CjoVlsireum Ho,). — 28 M. Hhawnigan Lake (Hotel, with boats, etc.). The lake, 17 M. long, is a favourite resort for boat-races. — At (40 M.) Duncan's (Quamichan Hotel) stages are in waitini; to take passengers to (21 M.) Lake Cowichan (Hotel), a famous salmon - fishing resort. The lake is 25 M. long (steamer). — 52 M. Chemainus (Louisville Hotel). — 73 M. Nanaimo, see p. 228. — 78 M. Wellington (Summerset Ho., 2 M. from the village; Wellington Bo.) is a village with important coal-mines (R. Dunsmuir & Sons; p. 225), the pro- ducts of which are shipped at Departure Buy (comp. p. 229). British Columbia, of which Victoria is the capital, includes the whole of (,'anada to the N. of tbe United States, between the Rocky Mts. on the E. and the Pacific Ocean and Alaska on the W. Its extreme length is 1250 M., its greatest width 650 M. , and its area 383,300 sq. 31. (exceeding that of any other province in the Dominion and about equal to the combined area of France. Prussia, Bavaria, and Belgium). Pop. (1891) 98, 173. It is essentially a mountainous district, though including large tracts of good arable land. The chief river of British Columbia is the Eraser (p. 221), but parts of the province belong to the hydrogra- phic basins of the Mackenzie (p. 205) and the Yukon. Its resources have so far been developed only to a slight extent. The staple industries of the province are lumbering, fishing, and mining. The vast forests contain some of the finest timber in the world, the most important tre^ being the Douglas fir, which, on the coast, often attains a height of 200-300ft. The red cedar, the Oregon pine, and the spruce are also important varieties. Many of the rivers abound in salmon, while herring, halibut, and other fish are taken on the coast. The salmon 'pack' in 1893 amounted to over 20 million lib. tins. The mineral resources include gold (of which at least $55,000,000 has* been produced), coal, silver, and iron. British Co- lumbia contains about 24,0(J0 Indians, the annu;tl value of whose industries amounts to $ 70Lt.O0O. — Vancouver Island (see below) was made a Cr»»wn colony in 1849. the mainlan' 3v' .<.^ ^-- «J o E T H V])^"^ ^ _z :^ /■^ ... ,. Ai SUUiilo Mik'S 1 J / N : ^ ^' r / / /:?*sfr i«w ,^>v .'^^ '>3 r ' S^.JT^?' \ - .<* / o^ .0^ ^°^ .N?^ / ^7 I "? I (C (D K J3 ^ :d^ r_ •^t- ,., ry '-^i;. ■\ 'i^ 7 JK' "^ I] E^A-^ y QUEfex CHAaiiOTTE l^»^. / <- .^^^ :2:A »)00OO °.. =? . '5?..-^^ '!P., 'P°^ir "K.I».M>.nM's to Sitka. JOHNSTONE STRAIT. 46. Route. 229 1893. — From Nanaimo to (73 M.") Victoria and to (5 M.) Welliny- ton by railway , see p. 227. Wdlington may also be reached by a pretty road through luxuriant wooils, or by water via (3 M.) Depart- ure Bay (p. 227). Vancouver Ip. 223) lies on the mainland, di- rectly opposite Nanaimo (steamer, $ 2). Farther on we see few settlements or signs of life. The shores are low and heavily wooded , but lofty mountains rise behind them on both sides, those on the mainland covered with snow. Long, deep, and narrow fjords, flanked vrith lofty mountains, run up into the land. To the right lie Lesqueti Island and the large Texada Island, covering the entrance to Jervis Inlet, one of the just-mentioned fjords, on the banks of whic^h are quarries of fine slate. Some of the steamers now stop for their coal supply at the Union Coal Mine, on Van- couver Island , opposite Texada, 60 M. to the N. of Nanaimo and a few miles to the S. of Como (weekly steamer to Victoria, Vancouver, and Nanaimo). About bO M. beyond Nanaimo we leave the Gulf of Georgia and enter *Discovery Passage, a river-like channel, 25 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, which separates Vancouver Island from Val- des Island and is flanked by mountains 3-6000 ft. high. Valdes Is- land, ending on the S. in Cape Mudge, occupies nearly the whole channel, and a scheme is now in consideration for running a rail- way from the mainland to Vancouver Island by budges constructed over the narrow waterways here. Behind Valdes Island opens the narrow *Bute Inlet , 40 M. long, flanked by precipitous mountains 4-8000 ft. in height. About the middle of Discovery Passage are the famous ^Seymour Narrows, 2M. long and V'i^- wide, through which the water rushes with great velocity (sometimes as high as 12 knots per hour). Discovery Passage is succeeded by '''Jolinstoiie Strait, another similar channel, 55 M. long and 1-3 M. wide, between Vancouver Island on the left and the mainland itself, or islands hardly distin- guishable from it. on the right. The Prince of Wales Mts., on Van- couver Island , reach a height of about 4600 ft.; and the white summits of the Cascade Range rise to the right beyond the lower Intervening hills. The varied beauty of the scenery cannot easily be indicated in words ; but few travellers will be weary of the pano- rama unfolded before them as the steamer advances. — Beyond Johnstone Strait we thread the shorter Broughton Strait (15 M. long), between Vancouver and Cormorajnt and Malcolm Islands. On Cormor- ant Island lies the Indian village of Alert Bay, with a salmon-can- nery, a native graveyard, and a totem pole (see p. 232). The coni- cal summit to the left is Mt. Holdsworth (3040 ft.). On emerging from Broughton Strait, we enter Qtxeen Charlotte's Sound, which is 10-30 M. wide and contains many islands, mostly adjoining the mainland. On the shore of Vancouver lies Fort Rupert, an old post of the Hudson Bay Co., with an Indian village. A little later we pass through Goletas Channel and then say farewell to Van- 230 Rnute in. G1:i:NVILLE CHANNEL. From Victoria couver Island, the N. point of which. Cape Commerell, we leave to the left. For a short time (40 M.) we are now exposed to the swell of the Pafiflc Ocean, but this is seldom enough in summer to cause uneasiness even to bad sailors. To the N.W., in the distance, loom the large Queen ( harlotte Islands, the cliief home of the Haidas, the cleverest of the native-tribes ot this coast (t'omp. p. 232). A full account of the islands is given by Dr. George M. Dawson in the Report of the Canadian (Geological Survey for 1879. Our course now hugs the mainland and leads at first through Titzhuyh Sound, a deep and narrow channel, the W. shore of which is formed by a continuous series of islands. The sharp peak of Mt. Buxton (^3430 ft.) rises on Calvert Island. As we near the N. end of the Sound the scenery becomes very grand, huge snowy peaks towering above the pine-clad hills that line th&' channel. Beyond the large Hunter s Island we turn sharply to the left and enter the ex- tremely narrow and winding *Lama Passage, between it and Denny Island. On Campbell Island, to the left, is the Indian village of Bella Bella, opposite which is a graveyard, with totem-poles ( comp. p. 232 ). Farther on we pass through the wider Seaforth Channel and reach Millbank Sound, the only other point on the voyage where we are exposed for a brief interval to the waves of tlie open sea. Beyond this sound we enter Finlay,-on Channel, 24M. long and 2M. wide, between the IsiTge Princess Royal Island (ASM. long and 25 M. wide^ and the mainland. Numerous fjords, short and long, run into the mainland, and several high waterfalls descend from the cliffs. Fin- layson Channel is continued by Tolmie Channel, Graham Reach, and Frazer Reach, beyond which we pass through McKay Reach, between theN. end of Princess Royal Island and Gribb el's Island, into Wright's Sound. Behind Gribbels Island are the channels leading to *Gard- ner Canal, one of the grandest and gloomiest fjords on this coast. From Wright's Sound we enter *Grenville Channel, which runs for 50 M. in an almost perfectly straight line between Pitt Island and the mainland. It is flanked on both sides with steep mountains 1500- 3500 ft. high, while still higher mountains rise in the background to the right. At places the channel is only a few hundred feet wide. Signs of glacier action are seen on the more distant mountains, while the courses of long bye-gone avalanches may be traced by the light- green streaks of the yoimger growth of trees. Crossing an expansion of Grenville Channel , we next enter the short Arthur Passage, be- tween Porcher Island (1.) and Kennedy Island [r.'}, which leads to Malacca Passage and the wide Chatham Sound. To the right is the mouth of the Skeena River, along which are scattered innumerable salmon-canneries. The E. side of the Sound is bounded by the large Chim-sy- an or Tsimpsean Peninsula , which is connected with the mainland by a very narrow neck of land. On this lies Old Metlakatla, the scene of Mr. Wm. Duncan's interesting experiences in educat- ing the natives (see p. 232) and now a missionary station of the to Sitka. ALASKA. 46. Route. 231 Episcopal Church of Canada. Iliirhor up is Pitt Simpson, a station of the Hudson Bay Co., established in 1831. On the small island, opposite the Fort, is an interesting villa;re of Tsinipsean Indians, who have attained a high measure of <-ivilisation and prosperity. The Nasse River, a little to the N. of the Tsinipsean Peninsula, is the chief scene | in sprinir) of the catch of the oulichan' or candle-tish (Thiileichthys pacificus). which furnishes the natives with the means of artificial liiiht. It is so full of oil that, when dry and furnished with a wick, it burns like a candle. To the left lie the Dundas Is- lands^ opposite the northernmost of which opens Portland Inlet. Just here we cross the boundary-line between the British and American possessions (54^40'N. lat. ; the famous 'fifty-four forty or fight' of 1843) and enter Alaska. To the left opens Dixon Entrance, between Graham Island (S.) and Prince of Wales Island (N.). The territory of Alaska received its name from Charles Sumner in a speech addressed to the Senate in favour of the purcliase of the terri- tory. It is a corruption of an Aleut word referring to the continent as dlstin'fiuished from the Aleutian island.s. The boundaries of the territory comprise the continent and islands adjacent, to the W. of 141' W. Ion., and also a strip to the VV. of a line drawn parallel to the coasl from the vicinity of 3It. St. Ellas in a S.E, direction to the N. extreme of I'ortland Canal , through the canal in niid-channel, and westward to the ocean on the parallel of 54-10' N. lat. The W. limits of the territory, to the N. of the Pacific Ocean, include the Aleutian chain, 'the islands of Bering Sea, and the eastern of the two Diomede Islands in Bering Strait. The terr'tory is divisible by its physical characteristics into several diverse regions. The Sitk-au Btgion. including the coast and islands to Cook's Inlet on the N. and the Kadiak group on the W., has a rough and mountainous topography with many glacier> , a bold sea coast, nunier(»us fjords and island'', a moist, cool, and equable climate, and a dense covering of chiefly coniferous forests. — The Akufian Region includes the peninsula of Aliaska, the Aleutian chain, and the Pribilolf or Fur seal Islands. It also has a cool and equable climate, with much fog and wind but less rain than in the Sitkan region. It consists of broad level areas with nu- merous clusters of mountains, few glaciers , many volcanic cone.^ , many harbours and anchorages-, and, while totally destitute of trees, nourishes luxuriant crops of grass, herbage, and wild flowers. The Aleutian chain represents an old line of fracture in the earth's crust ^ and, contrary to the usual idea, a large proportion of the islands arc not volcanic but com- posed of crystalline or sedimentary rocks. — The fnkon Region includes the mass of the continent to the N. of the great peninsula, which has on its N. border true Arctic conditions, on its W. shores a mild summer and an Arctic winter, and in the interior a hot short sumnuer and a dry cold winter, much like that of 3Iinnesota. It is a region of Tundra: low, un- dulating ranges of grassy mountains, and extensive, level, more or less wooded river valleys. The products of the Sitkan region arc timber, precious metals, salmon, halibut, and other sea-fish. Li^^nitic coal and extensive beus of marble exist in many places. The Aleutian region produces chiefly fox and sea otter fur, the fur-seal pelts, and a certain amount of coal. Extensive cod- fisheries are prosecuted along its shores. The Yukon region, except for a little placer-mining, produces nothing but furs and salmon. A remarkable characteristic of the Territory is that, though bordering on the Arctic Ocean and in the S. teeming with glaciers, it has still never been subjected to the action of a continental ice-sheet, such as have ground down the coasts of the analogous fjord-regicns of New England and Norway. The native inhabitants of Alaska belong to four ethnologic stock-races : the Eskimo or Iimuit , with their special oSshoot the Aleutian people; the 232 Route 46. CLARENCE STRAIT. From Victoria Haida Indians of Alaska; the Tlinkit stock of the Sitkan region; and the Tinneh or Athabascan IrAians of the great interior region. In all there are between twenty and thirty housand of theae natives, independent, self- sustaining, and mostly well disposed. They are in no direct way related to any of the present Asiatic races as is so often assumed, but, from the evidences of the prehistoric shell-heaps, have occupied the region for many centuries. They live by fishing and hunting; the moose, the caribou, and the salmon, in the interior, and the hair-seal, *he beluga, the cod and other sea-fishes, the salmon, and wild fowl, on the coasts, furnish their chief supplies. The fjords and rivers are their roads; with hardly an exception they are canoe-men everywhere , and throughout the N. drivers of dogs and sledges. Among the Tlinkit and Haida people one custom is forced on the attention of all who visit their villages. It is that of erecting what are called Totem Poles, which have various significations, the most common being that of a 'genealogical tree'. A man erects one of their large com- munal houses, and, in memory of this achievement , puts up in front of it a cedar pole carved with figures emblematic of the totems of himself and his ancestors, one above another. The door of the house is frequently cut through the base of the pole under the totem of the builder; while, above, the successive totems (which by their social laws must change with every generation) appear in the order of remoteness. The estimated area of the territory is 580,000 sq. M. (thrice that of France) ; its total population about 35,000, of which one-seventh are accounted civilized; its chief archipelago, in the Sitkan region, is said to contain 11,000 islands; its total shore-line amounts to some 18.200 M. ; its principal com- mercial port is in about the same latitude as Liverpool ; its southernmost islands lie on the parallel of Brussels; its westernmost village is as far W. from the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon, as Eastport, Maine, is E. from that point; it includes within its boundaries the highest mountains, the most superb glaciers and volcanos in America to the N. of Mexico ; and presents the anomaly of a territory with only about one inhabitant to 17 sq. M, which in 20 years has paid more than eight million dollars in taxes. It was transferred by Russia to the United States in 1867 for the sum of $7,250,0U0. The most authoritative and complete work on Alaska is 'Alaska and its Resources", by Dr. Wm. H. Dull., who kindlj drew up the above ])ari- graphs for this Handbook, A good popular account is given in Miss E. R. Scid- more's 'Alaska and the Sitkan Archipelago'. See also Miss Scidmore's excellent 'Guidebook to Alaska' (Appleton; 1893). To the right, as we proceed, juts out Ca-pe Fox, with the small station oiFort Tongas on an adjacent islet. The steamer now steers towards the N. and enters Clarence Strait, which is 100 M. long and 4-12 M. wide and is hounded on the W. by Prince of Wales Island (130 M. long and 30 M. wide). This is one of the seats of the Haidas (comp. p. 230) and contains the best totem-poles, but the ordinary tourist has no opportunity of landing here. Annette Is- land, the largest of the Gravina group, is the seat of Port Chester, with the new Metlakatla. founded by Mr. Duncan on leaving his original station (see p. 230). To the right, opposite Annette Island, lies the large island of Bevillagigedo, the chief place on which is Loring, tvith an important salmon-cannery. We are now within what is known as the Alexander Archipelago, about 1100 of the is- lands of which appear on the U. S. charts, while innumerable small islets are disregarded. The mountains on eaoh side of the strait are fine in size, proportions, and colouring. Near the head of Clarence Strait we steer to*the right (E.), between Etolin Island (r.) and Za- to Sitka. FORT WRANGELL. 46. Route. 233 rembo Island (1.) and run into Fort Wrangell, usually the first stopping-place of the steamer 'Queen' after leaving Victoria. 090 M. (from Victoria) Fort Wrangell , situated on tlie N. end of the island of the same name , opposite the mouth of the Stikine River, was formerly a place of some importance, as the outlet of the Cassiar Mines, but is now a dirty and dilapidated settlement inhabited by about 250 Tlinkits (p. 231) and a few whites. It was named from Baron Wrangell, Russian Governor of Alaska at the time of its settlement (1834). To the tourist Fort Wrangell is of interest as containing the boat col- lection of Totem Poles he is likely to see, though their execution is by no means so fine as that of the Eaidaa (see p. 232). The totems here are 20-40 ft. high. One is surmounted by a bear, another by a head with a 'Tyhee' hat, the badge of a Shaman or "Medicine Man'. A specimen of such a hat, said to be 400 years old, is shown in one of the houses. The old Graveyard is so overgrown with vegetation as to be difficult of access and now contains little of typical interest. The carved ligure of a bear (or wolf) which surmounted one of the graves now lies on the ground near two of the totem-poles. The Tlinkits themselves will interest the visitors, who will at once notice such customs as the blackening of the faces of the girls (said to have for its object the preservation of the complexion) and the wearing of labrets, or small plugs of silver, ivory, wood, or bone, in the lower lip. Curiosities of various kinds, including labrets, silver bracelets, carved horn and wooden spoons, reed baskets, halibut hooks, gaily painted canoe-paddles, the carved rattles of the Shamans, and fine carvings in slate may be purchased from the natives ; and the inquisitive may visit the imperfectly ventilated interior of one of the huts. At the end of the village farthest from that with the totem-poles are the Court House and a Mission School for Girls, the teacher of which is glad to jive information to interested visitors. The Stikine River is said to receive 300 glaciers , and its scenery is very fine. Soon after leaving Fort "Wrangell we thread our way through tlie devious * Wrangell Narrows, where the channel is marked by stakes and buoys. The shores here are well-wooded, and at places stretches of grass border the water like the lawns of an English country-house. Farther on, in Soukhoi Channel, the scenery is of a more majestic character. The mountains on either side , though apparently of no very great height, are covered with snow to within 1000 ft., or less, of the water; and their shapes are very varied and beautiful. One of the most striking is the DeviVs Thumb (ca. 8500 ft.), a peaked monolith recalling the Dolomites of Tyrol. We here see the first glaciers of the voyage (all to the right) : the Le Conte Glacier, high up on the mountain-side; the larger Patterson Glacier; and the Baircl Glacier, in Thomas Bay. About this part of the trip, too, we may meet our first piece of floating ice ; while the indescribably beautiful effects of the late sunsets (9-10 p.m.) will rouse even the most sluggish enthusiasm. The huge slopes of neve, or hardened snow, are very fine. Soukhoi Channel widens into Frederick Sound, with Cape Fan- shawe to the right and Kupreano*f Island to the left ; but our course soon leaves this sound and carries us to the N. through the long 234 Route 46. JUNEAU. From Victoria Stephens Passage, bounded on tlie W. by tbe large Admirdlty Island. IIoLkam or Sum Bum Buy, to the riglit, was at one time the scene of some placer-mining. Near the head of the passage, to the right, opens *Taku Inlet, with its fine glaciers, one of which has a sea- face 1 2 ^- long and 100-200 ft. high. The muddy grey water of the inlet is filled with ice-floes and bergs, Tlie surrounding moun- tains are of a fantastic, Dolomitic appearance. The chief settlement of Aamiralty Island is Killisnoo , on its W. coast. Here resides •Saginaw .Take', chief of tlie Kootznahoos. a well-known character. — Just beyond the mouth of the Taku Inlet we enter the pretty Gastinenu Channel, between Douglas Island and the mainland. 890 m. Juneau, the largest town in Alaska, with(1890) 1253 in- liab., about equally divided between whites and natives or half-breeds, is situated on the mainland, on a narrow strip of comparatively level ground between the sea and a precipitous, snow-seamed mountain ( 3300 ft.). Settled in 1880 and named after a nephew of the founder of Milwaukee, it is occupied mainly by miners. It has a mission- school and publishes a weekly paper, the Alaska Free Press. The attractions of the town itself are limited, but it contains perhaps the best shops for the sale of Alaskan furs (sea-otter, seal, otter, beaver, bear, musk-rat, fox, etc.) and the famous Chilkat Blankets. The last are made of the hair of mountain-goats and coloured with native dyes, but genuine examples, worth $60-100, are now rare, and most of those offered for sale are of wool and stained with aniline dyes. About '/2 M. to the N. of Juneau is a village of the Aiik Indians, a curious and primitive, but very dirty settlement, which will repay a visit. The traveller may bargain here for a trip in an Indian canoe. Kehind the village is a native Cemetery, with curious little huts containing the cremated remains and personal effects of the deceased. Juneau possesses a few hordes and carts and one of the only two roads in Alaska. This leads through the highly picturesque ^Canon of the Gold Creek, with its waterfalls and small glacier, to (S'/sM.) Silver Bow Mines, and oilers a trip well worth making if lime allows. The Silver Bow Basin contains gold mines of great promise, and both quartz and placer mining are successfully prosecuted. On Douglas Island, nearly opposite Juneau, is the famous *Treadwell Gold Mine, at which the steamers generally call. The mine, which is close to the wharf and easily visited, has the largest quartz-crushing mill in the world, employing 240 stamps. The quartz does not produce more thuu $4-(J of metal per ton, but is so easily and economically worked that the profits are said to be enormous. It is credibly stated that the company that owns it refused $ 16,000,0(X) for the mine,' and the gold actually in sight is estimated to be worth 4-5 times as much as the price paid for the entire district of Alaska (p. 232). Many of the best workers in the mine are natives, who earn 3 2'/2 per day. As Gastineau Channel has not been charted above Juneau , the steamer now returns to its S. end and then proceeds to the N. through Saginaw Channel, on the W. side of Douglas Island. This debouches on *Lynn Canal, a fine fjord extending for (30 M. towards the N. It is flanked with snow-mountains, rising abruptly from the very edge of the water to a height of 6000 ft., and presents , per- haps, the grandest scenic features we have yet encountered. About to Sitka. GLACIER 15AY. 4f!. Route. 235 a score of glaciers . large and sir all , descend from the ravines towards the fjord, among which the Auk. Eayle (r.), and Davidson Glaciers are conspicuous. The last-mentioned, near the head of the fjord and on its W. side , spreads out to a width of 3 M. as it reaches the water-level, its front heing partly masked by a tree- grown moraine. Lynn Canal ends in two prongs, named the Cltil- koot and Chilkat Inlets. The steamer usually ascends to Pyramid Harbor, on the latter (the W. arm ) , and here we reach the highest latitude of tlie trip (59'^ 10' 36" N. ; about that of the Orkney Is- lands, Christiania, and St. Petersburg). At midsummer there are not more than 3-4 hrs. of partial darkness here. Visitors who choose may land by one of the ships boats and visit the small Chilkat villcge (80-100 inhab.), which possesses a prosperous salmon- cannery. There are also other settlements on tlie inlet. This is the district in which the line Chilkat blankets (p. 284) are made. Good echoes may be wakened off the glaciers. Passes lead from the Chil- koot and Chilkat inlets to the headwaters of the Yukon (p. '231 ). We now rtturn to the S. end of Lynn Canal and then bend to the right (N.W.) into ley Strait. Opening olf this to the right is *Glacier Bay, which extends to the N. W. for about 45 M., with a width contracting from 12 M. to 3 M. The mountains immediately abut- ting on the bay ,ire comparatively low (4000-7000 ft.) , but as we ascend it we enjoy a magniticent **View to the left of the Fair- veather Bange, including (named from left to right) Mt. La Pe- rou«e (11,300 ft.), Mt. CWf^on (15,900 ft.), Mt. Lituj/a (10,000 ft. ), and Mt. Fairu-eather [io^bOO ft.). The surface of the bay is full of small icebergs and floes detached from the large glaciers which descend into it , and the most careful navigation cannot avoid an occasional bump. As we advance up the bay we have an excellent view of the wonderful **Muir Glacier, the grandest single feature of our Alaskan, expedition {^1170 M. from Victoria by the course described). To thi^ right is seen the small hut in which Prof. John Muir, who first visited the glacier in 1879, lived when making his explorations of it in 1890. The steamer anchors as near the face of the glacier as prudence permits. This stupendous glacier, throwing the lary;e ice-fields of Svvit/erlund entirely into the shade, enters the sea with a front IJ/a M. wide and I'jO- 'iLKJ ft. hiiih, probably extending 700 ft. below the water. From this won- derful wall of blue and white ice, which forms a striking contrast to the dirty terminal moraines of European glaciers, huge masses of ice, often weighing many hundreds of tons, detach themselves at frequent interval" and fall into the bay with a reverberating roar, throwing up the water in clouds of spray and creating waves that rock the huge steamer like a cock-boat. Nine main streams of ice unite to form the trunk of the glacier, which occupies a large valley, 30-40 M. long. Seventeen smaller arms join the main stream. The width of the glacier when it breaks through the mountains {Pyramid Peak to the W., Mt. Wright and Mt. Case to the E.) to descend to the sea is about 3 M. The superlicial area of the glacier is 350 sq. M., or about the same as that of Huntingdonshire. Prof. G. F. Wright, who explored the glacior in 1886, estimated its rate of movement at 70 ft. per day in the centre and 10 ft. at the sides (an average 236 Route 46. SITKA. From Victoria of 40ft.), as compared with U,2-S ft. at tbe Jler de Glace; but Prof. H. F. Eeid,' of the Case School of Applied Science (Cleveland, Ohio), who spent the summers of 1890 and 1892 here . f«mnd the most rapid move- ment not more than 7 ft. per day. In August about 200,000,000 cubic feet of ice fall into the inlet daily. Though the glacier thus moves forward at a comparatively rapid rate , investigation shows that it loses more ice in summer than it gains in winter and that its front is retrograding steadily from year to year. It is evident from the 'j;enernl appearance of the enclosing hills that the ice-stream once occupied the whole of Glacier Bay; and numerous features of the moraines and adjacent rocks give proof of more recent retrocession. Vancouver found the bay blocked by a wall of ice in 1794. See the very interesting reports (with maps, etc.) of Prof. H. F. Reids two expeditions. Visitors are landed in small boats on one of the lateral moraines, and by following this back for about ^/t M. reach the surface of the main glacier, which they may follow as far as time allows. The seaward end of the glacier is ao corrugated and seamed by vast crevasses as ;o be quite inaccessible. The surface of tLe glacier commands a splendid view of Glacier Bay and the adjacent mountains: and those who are good climbers may obtain a still better view by ascending the stony conical mountain (ca. 3000 ft.) on the left CN.W.) side of th^ glacier, about 2 M. from the bay. Walking on the smooth surface of the glacier is generally easy in summer; but the feet should be well protected against dampness, as the strong summer-sun (which makes too warm clothing undesirable), has con- siderable eCTect on the surface-ice. The steamboat C(»mpany provides alpen- stocks for the use of passengers, and has constructed a plank-walk, with guirie-posts, leading up to the glacier. Those who make longer explor- ations should keep a good lookout for snow-covered fissures and avoid wandering off alone. Mirages are of common occurrence at the Muir Glacier, and have given rise to the so-called 'Pliantom City', of which fanciful illustrations are given in some books describing this region. Above Muir Inlet several other huge glaciers enter Glacier Bay, but as this part of the bay has not yet been charted, an approach to them is less easy. Among them are the Geikie, Hugh Miller, and Grand Pacific Glaciers. The nearest way from Glacier Bay to Sitka would be tlirough Cross Sound and down the W. side of Chichagoff Island, but to avoid the unpleasantness of an outside passage the steamer returns through Icy Strait (p. 236) and Chatham Sound (p. 230). About one-third of the way down the latter we diverge to the right through *Peril Strait, between the islands of Chichagoff(N.^ and iJara7io/f(S.). This strait is broad at first but ultimately contracts to a width of 1/2 ^^-j where its wooded hills and islets recall the scenery of Loch Lomond. As we approach Sii^ka we have a fine view, to the right, of Mt. Edge- cumhe (see below), with its crater half ' lied with snow. 1320 m. Sitka, the capital of AUslia and seat of the governo,-, is very beautifully situated on the W. side of Baranoff Island, with a fine bay dotted with green islands in front and a grand range of snow-mountains behind. The bay is sheltered by K'.-uzoff Island, with the extinct volcano Mt. Edgecumbe (3780 ft.), while immed- iately to the E. of the town towers Mt. Verstovaia (3210 ft.). In 1890 Sitka contained 1190 inhab., of whom 29i were white, 31 Chi- nese, and 865 natives. The town was founded in 1804 by Alex. Baranoff, the first Russian governor of Alaska (i^ee W. Irving' s 'Astoria'). Sitka lies in 57° N. lat. (about the same as that of Aber- to Sitka. MT. ST. ELIAS. 40. Route. 237 deen or Riga) and, owing to the Kuro Siwo, or Japanese current, has a milder winter than Boston , in spite of the propinquity of eternal snow (mean summer temp. 54°, winter 32°). The temp rature seldom falls to zero. The rainfall is very high (ca. 110 inches). On a height to the right of the dock stands Baranoff Castle, the resid- ence of the Ru«8ian governors, a plain but aomewhal quaint old wooden building, now in a very neglected condition, though some repairs were made in 1893. The roof commands a beautiful *Vievv. — Near the head of the main street, leading from the wharf into the town, is the Russo- Greek Church, with its green roof and bulbous spire, which contains some interes'ing paintings and vestments. 3Iany of the natives and halt-breeds are members of the Greek churcli and are still ministered to by a Russian pope. Several of the substantial old Log Houses of the Russians are still in use. ~ Turning to the right at the head of the main street and following the road along the beach, we reach the buildings of the Presbyterian Mission, where visitors are welcome. The '^Sitka Museum, a highly in- teresting collection of Alaskan products, is installed in a building in the mission-grounds, fitted up like the dwellinr of a native chief, with a totem- pole at the entrance- — By pas3ing up between these buildings we reach the *Indian River Walk (a round of about 2 M.), where the visitor with pre-conceived ideas of Sitka's arctic climate will be surprised to find luxuriant vegetation, fine trees, and a brawling brook, not unlike such typ- ical British walks as the Torrent Walk at Dolgelley. One of the character- istic plants is the 'Devil's Club' ( Echinopanax horrida). By turning to the right beyond the largest bridge we may see a specially line group of cedars. The Native Village, or Rancherie, lies to the left of the wharf and is occupied by 80>t-l(X0 Sitkans , including many interesting specimens such as 'Princess Tom' and -Sitka Jack', who are always at home to steamboat- visitors. Tourists occasionally get up canoe races among the natives, and exhibitions of native dancing are often arranged for their benefit. Behind the village is the native and Russian cemetery. Native curiosities may be bought at Sitka comparatively cheap, but furs are, perhaps, better obtained at Juneau (p. 234). A Russian samovar may still occasionally be picked up here. Travellers should also visit the office of the Alaskan (10 c), a weekly paper. Sitka is the turning-point of our voyage, and we now retrace the way we have come (via Icy Strait, Chatham Sound, Frederick Sound, etc.). The distance to Victoria is about 1100 M., taking 5 days. Ag a rule few stops are made on the homeward journey ; but much fine scenery, previously passed at night, is now seen by daylight. Mt. St. Elias, the loftiest m(mntain in the United States (approximate height, ace. to the most recent calculations, 18,200 ft.) and vying with 3It. Orizaba for the position of culminating point of the N. American Continent, is situated ia Alaska, to the N. of 60' N. lat. and about 30 M, from the coast. It is nearly 3i.>0 M. to the W.N.W. of Glacier Bay (p. 235) c d is not visible on any part of the trip above described. Tourists who wi.h to go farther to the N. may avail themselves of the steamer of the North American Commercial Co.^ which leaves Sitka for Unalaska about the middle of each month while navigation is open (round trip of 2500 JI., taking about a month; fare $ 120). This excursion all'ords splendid views of the St. Elias Alps and the enormous glaciers of the Alaska mainland. The sea is generally smooth in summer. Holders of return-tickets of the Pacific Coast Steamship Co. are entitled to stop over at Sitka and return by a later steamer. INDEX. Abl.ott, 3It. 215. 214. Abenakis Springs 36. Abitibbi, Lake 189. Abraham, Plains* of 45. 39. Abuptlc Harbour 85. Acadia 77. 72. 119. etc. — Iron Works 73. Actonvale 34. Adamsville 7U. Adirondack Mts. 10. V2. 186. Admiralty Island 234. Afton 87. Agassiz (K. C.) 222. — , Lake IdQ. Agnes Lake 212. Ahmic Harbour 161. Ainslie, Lake 91. 90. Ainsworth 218. Airdrie 204. Alaski; 231. Albany (N. S.) 121. — (N. Y.) 9. 12. Albert 7U. — Canon 217. — Mines 70. Alberta 200. 203. xxvii. Alberton 98. Alert Bay 229. Aleutian 'islands 231. Alexander Archipelago 232. Alexandria (Nfd.) 115. — (Ont.-> 143. — Bay 185. Alsoma 181. 190. Aliionquin Park 161. 189. Alison's 220. Allandale 159. 169. Allen's 131. Allumette Lake 188. Almonte 188. Alport 164. Alton Bay 13. Amherst 72. Amherstburg 170. Amqui 66. Amsterdam 12. Anncortes 227. Andover 136. Androscoggin, the 18. 142. Ange Gardien 49. Anglesey 4. Anguille, Cape 99. 111. Annapolis 121. 123. — , the 120. 121. — Bav 121. 123. — Valley 120. 121. Annette Islands 232. Anse a I'Eau 59. Anticosti 2. 68. .'\ntignnisli 86. Antwerp 6, Apishkaugama, the 191. Apohaqui 70. Appin .Tunction 166. .\pple Hill 151. Ardoise. 31 1. 117. Aricbat 90. 89. Arisaig 86. Arnaud 198. Arnolds Cove 115. Arnprior 188. Aroostook, the_ 137. 130. — .Junction 13^. Arranmore 2. Arrow Lakes 218. Arthabaska 34. Arthur Passage 230. Ashcroft 220. Ashtnoulou Mts. 220, Ashuapmouchouan , the 54. 55. Aspotogan, 31t. 83. AssanietquMghan 66, Assiniboia 200. xxxii. Assiniboine, the 195. 198. Asulkan (Glacier 216. — Pass 216. — Valley 215. Athabasca 200. x.xvii. — , the 205. — Lake 205. — Landing 205. Atherley .1 unction 160. Atocas, the 60. Augusta 142. Auk Glacier 235. Aulac 72. Aurora 159. Ausable Chasm 10. Austin 199. Avalanche, Jit. 214. Avalon 99. 106. 109. Avon, the 118. Avondale 86. Avonport 118. Aylesford 120. — Lakes 12u. Aylmer 148. Baccalieu Island 111. Baccaro Point 84. Baddeck 91. Bale d'Espoir 110. — 8t. Paul 57. Baird Glacier 233. Baker, Mt. 224. 2'26. Bala 164. Bald 31t. 138. Baldwin 10. Balgonie 201. Balleoram 110. Banff 207. Bangor 142. Baranoff 236. Barkerville 220. Barnet 13. Barney's Liver 86. Barra 'strait 88. Barrie 160. Harrington 84. 124. RjirtibogUv 68. Bassano ?'J3. » Bassett 189. Bass Lake 1S9. Bathurst 68. 137. — Harbour 68. Batiscan 34. 36. — , the 53. 34. Batoche 201. Battle, the 204. — Harbour 113. — Island 113. Battleford 202. Bauld, Cape 112. Bi.yfield, Mt. 2. Bay of Islands 111. 116. — St. George 111. — Shore 128. INDEX, 239 Beach Street 71. Bear Creek 214. — Hills 204. — Island 135. — Lake 182. Beaubair 6'.*. Beauce Junction 15. Beaiidet 53. Beauharnois 187. Heanmaris 162. 1G4. Beaumont 57. i?ea iport 49. — Lake 51. Heausejour 194. — Fort 7:2. Beaver Brook G8. — Creek 217. — Dams 170. — Gate 213. — Hills 205. 201. — Lake 205. Beaverfoot 213. Beavermoutli 213. Becancovir. the 34. Bedford (N.S.) 74. 82. — (P. E. L) 98. — Basin 82. 74. Bederacebridge 161. 164. Brackley Point 97. Bradford 159. Bradore Bay 2. Brampton 164. Brandon 198. 199. 200. — Hills 200. Brantford 171. Bras dOr Lakes 90. 88 Brattleboro U. Bremen 6. Bremerhaven 6. Bremner 191. Breton, Cape 93. Bridgeport 11. Bridgetown 121. Bridgewater S4. 121. Brigham Jucction 31. Briev I^'- i 123. Brierk s Brock 36. Brighton 152. Brigus 114. Brise-Culottea, Point 60. Bristol 130. E itannia 148. Bn'tish Columbia 227. 112. xxvi. x.Kxix. etc. Brittain's Point 130. Broadaxe 212. Broad Cove (Cape Bre- ton) 90. (Nfd.) 108. Broadview 200. Brocl^ville 186. 148. 152. Brookfield 74. Broughtou Strait 229. Brou-aeau's .lunction 10. Browns Flat 130. Brownville 32. Broyle, Cape 109. Bruce Mines 181. 190. Brudenell, the 98. Brunswick 142. Erundage's Point 130. Bryant's Pond 18. Burkingham 149. 143. Buctouche 70. Butlalo 173. 108. 172. Bulls, Bay of ICO. Burgeo 110. Burin 110. Burk's Falls 161. Burlington (Ont.) 168. — (Vt.) 11. — Beacli 169. 168. Burrard Inlet 223. 22i. Burton 132. Bute Inlet 229. Buxton, .Mt. 230. Cacouna 59. 64. 3. Cadboro Bay 226. Calais 139. Caldwell 9. Caledon 3Its, 180. Caledonia Springs 149. 143. Calf Point 83. Calgary 204. Callander 189. 162. Calshot Castle 5. Calumet (isl. and falls) Campbell Island 230. Campbellton 66. Campobello 140. 16. Canaan 70. Canal de Haro 228. Canmore 207. Canning 120. Canso 89. 240 INDEX. Canso, Strait of 39. Canterbury 32. 136. Cantyre, Mull of 3. Cape Breton Island 87. — Clear Ifrland 4. — Cove 67. — Porcupine 87. — Sable Island 84. — St. Ignace 63. Caplin 66. Cap Rouge 36. Caraquet 6S. Carberry 199. Carbonear 114. Cardigan (N.B.) ia5. -- (P.E.I.) 98. Cardwell Junction 169. 180. Cariboo District 220. Caribou 13*. Carillon 143. 149. 150 Carleton (Baie des Cha- ieurs) 6B. 67, — (St. John) 128. 125. 122. 17. — Ferry 138. — Place 188. 148. Carlton 164. Carnarvon, Mt. 213. Carnsore Point 4. Cartier 191. Carlstad 193. Cascade 211. — Mt. (Rocky N.) 211, 208. — Mts. 221. •.i'.J;. 224. — Rapids 186. — River 210. Cascapedia, the 67. Casco Bay 18. Cascumpec Bay 98. Case Mt. 235. Casselman 143. Castalia (Gr. Manan) 141 Castle Mountain 211. Catalina 112. Catalogue Lake 93. Citaraqui. tbe 184. Cathedral, the 212. Caughnawaga 30. 187. Causapscal 66^ Cayuga, the 179. Cecebe, Lake 161. Cedar Hall 65. — Rapids 186. Cemetery Station 97. Central Ontario Junction 151. Centre Harbour 13. Chain Lakes 82. Chaleur, Bay 67. Chalk River 189. Chamberlain 201. Chambly 14. — Basin 14. — Canton 14. Chambord Junction 54. Chamcook Mt. 139. Champlain (P. Q.) 34. 36. — , Hotel 10. — , Lake 10. 11. 12. Channel 111. — Islands 6. Chapleau 191. Chaplin 202. Charles, the 15. Charlesbourg 52. 51. Charlo 68. Charlottetown 96. 95. Chat, Cape 2. Chateau Richer 50. Chater 199. 200. Chatham (N. E.1 69. — (Ont.) 166. 171. — Junction 69. — Sound 230. Chats, Lac des 188. Chatsworth 180. Chaudiere 35. — , the 35. 16. — Falls (P. q^ 35. 48. — Falls (Ottawa) 147. Cheum Peak 222. Chebucto Head 18. 83. Chedabucto Bav 89. 87. Chelsea 148. Chemainus 227. Cheops, Mt. 214. Cherry Coulee 203. Chester (N. B.) 32. (N. S.) 83. 120. Chesterville 151. Cheticamp 86. Chichagoff 236. Chicoutimi 61. 56. -, the 62. 56. Chignecto Peninsula 72 Childwold 12. Chilkat Inlet 235. Chilkoot Inlet 236. Chimney Island 186. Chim-sy-an Peninsula 230. Chipman 70. Chippewa 179. 173. Churchbridge 199. Ciboux Islands 92. Cisco 221. Clach-na-Cudden 217. Clairs 64. Clanwilliam 218. Clare 123. Clarence Strait 232. Clarenville 115. Clayton 185. Clearwater, the 205. Clement«port 123. Cleveland 172. Clifton 170. 171. Clinton 220. Clouds, Lakes in the 211. Cloutiers 64. Clyde, the (N. S.) 84. (Scotland) 3. Coachman's Cove 112. Coal Branch 70. Coast Mts. (B. C.) 221. xxxix. xl. xli. Coaticooke 18. Cobequid Hills 73. 1*20. Cobourg 153. 184. Cochrane 206. Codroy Rivers 111. Coe Hill 152. Coffin Island (N. S.) 84. Coldbrook 71. 15. Coleraine 15. Coles' Island 131. CoUingwood 159. 180. Columbia, the 214. 218. 213. xli. — Mts. 218. Comber 171. Come-by-Chance 115. Commerell, Cape 230. Commissaires, Lac des 54. Como (B. C.) 229. — (Ont.) 150. Conception Bay 108. 112. Conche 112. Concord (N. H.) 13. 12. Connors 64. Coutrecoeur 35. Conway Junction 15. Cookshire Junction 15. 31. Copper Mt. 211. Coquitlan lii, Corbeau, Cap 57. Cordova Bay 226. Cork 4. Cormorant Island 229. Cornwall 186. 152. Cornwallis Vallev 119. — , the 120. Coteau Junction 152. 143. 12. — Lauding 186. — Rapids 186. Couchiching, Lake 160. Coudres, Isle aux 57. Coulonge (lake and fort) 188. Courtenay Bay 129. Coutts 203. Cow Bay 82. 89. Cowichan, Lake 227. Craigie Lea 164. Crane Island 57. — Lake 163. INDEX. 241 Crapaud 97. Cruwfurd House 1'). — Notch 15. Credit River 16 i. Crillon, 3It. 235. Crook ston 198. Cross Creek 69. — Point 66. — Sound 2;36. Crowfoot 2U3. Crown Mis. 229. Cumberland 149. — Basin 72. Cuxhaven 5. Cypress Hills 202. Dablon 54. Dalhou3ie 66. — Mills 151. Danville (Me.) 18. — (P. Q.) 34. Dark Harbor (Gr. Manau) 141. Darlington 134. Dartmonth 82. — , the 68. Davenport 159. Davidson Glacier 235. Debfcc 32. Debert 73. Deep Cove (Gr. Manan) 141. Deer Island 16. 138. Denny Island 230. Dennysville 141. Denvs River 90. 88. Departure Bay 227. 229. De Quen 54. Derby Junction 69. Descente des Femmes 61. Deschambault 34. 36. Des Chenes. Lake 148. Deseronto 152. 184. Despair, Cape 67. Detour Passage 182. Detroit 165. 167. ITQ. 171. 172. — River 165. 172. 185. Deux Rivieres 189. Devil Island 18. Deville, Mt. 213. Devil's Head 139. — Lake 210. — Thumb (Agnes Lake) 212. ^'(Ala.) 233. Dexter 142. Diamond, Cape 37, 41. Dickinson's 186. Didsbury 204. Digby 122. 123. — Gut 122. — Neck 123. Baedeker's Canada. Dildo Island 112. Dingle S2. Discovery Passage 229. Dixon Entrance 231. Duak 135. Doaktown 69. Dog Lake 191. Dogtooth Mts. 213. Dominion Citv 198. Don, the 154. "l50. Donald 213. Dorchester 71. Dorval Pass 56. D'Orville's Head 139. Doucet's Island 139. — Landing 36. 34. Douglas 135. — Island 234. Douglastown 67. Dover (England) 5. — (Me.) 142. Down 1. Drumbo 166. Drummondvillc 14. Drvnoch 221. Duck Lake 201. Ducks 21i). Dudswell Junction - J. Dufferin Hill 219. Duluth 192. l)uncan''s 227. Dundalk 180. Dundas 172. — Islands 2. 31. Dundurn 21. Dunmore 202. Dunsinane 200. Duthil 2a7. Dutton 177. Dyer's 138. Eagle Glacier 235. — Pass 21S. — Peak 215. 214. — River 219. 193. East, Cape 61. Eastern Townships 31.34. Eastman's Springs 143. Eastport 16. 13^. 14(\ 141, East River (Pictou) 85. 86. — Templeton 149. Eboulement, Mt. 57. Echo Bay 190. Eddystone Lighthouse 5. Edgecumbe. Mt. 236. Edmonton 204. Edmundston 64, 137. Eel River 32. 136. Eganville 188. Egg Island 2. F'lbe, the 5. Elbow, the 204. Eldon 211. Elephantis. 3rt. 14. Elgin 70. Klkhorn 2U0. Ellershouse 117. Elliot, the 95. 96. Elora 180. Emerald Junction 97. Emerson 198. Enfleld 74. English Channel 6. - River 193. Erie 173. — , Lake 172. xxxvii. Escasoni W. Ksquimalt 225. 226. 227. Essex Centre 170. — Junction 11 12. Estevan 199. 200. Eternity, Cape 60. Ftolin Island 2.32. Eugenia Falls 180. Evangeline District 119. Everett 222. Exploits 112. 115. — , the 115. 112. 100. Fabyan's 15. Fairholme Mts. 206. 210. Fairweather Range 235. Falls View 171. Fanshawe, Cape 233. Fargo 171. Farnham 14. 31. Farran's Point 162. Farrellton 148. Fastnet Rock 4. Father Point 3. 65. Fermeuse 109. Ferrvland l09. 110. Field 212. — , Mt. 212. Finlayson Channel 230. Finsbury 201. Fire Island 4. Fish Creek 201. Fishkill 9. Fitchburg 12. Fitzhugh 230. Five Island Lake 117. - Islands 73. 120. Flagg's Cove 141. Fleming 200. Flesherton 180. Florenceville 136. Flushinii 6. Fogo 112. Folleigh Lake 73. Forres 202. Fort Coulogne 148. — Edward 9. — Ellice 200. — Fairfield 137. — Good Hope 205. 16 242 INDEX. Fort Kent 61. — Lawrence 72. — Macleod 2C3. 1206. — Mc Murray 205. — 3IcPuers(m 205. — Ni)rniaa 205. — P. evidence 205. — Resolution 205. — Rupert 220. — Siuip.'son 205. — .*^mitU 205. — Tongas 2;J2. — William 192. la^. — Wrangell 2:3:1 — Wrigley 205. Fortune 110. — P.av 110. 116. Forty'Mile Creek 210. Fo-^ter li. 31. Fourchu, Cape 85. Fox. Cape 232. Foyle, Lough 2. Franconia Notch (White Mts.) 13. Fraser (Mich.) 165. — (Nfd.) 115. —,the221. 220.227. xl. etc. — Canoi 221. Fraserville 63. Frazer Reach 230. Fredericton 132. 69. — Junction 32. i:J5. Frederick Sound 2:53. French River, the 190. 86. — Shore (Nfd.) 104. 111. 116. Frenchville 64. Friar's Head 141. Frisian Islands 6. Fryeburg 19. Fulton Chain 12. Fundy, Bay of 122 17. etc. Gaharu-s Bay 94. Oagetown 131. Galonps Rapid.s 186. Oalt 166. Gambo 115. Gananoque 185. 152. Gander, the 115. Gannet Rock 141. Gap Station 207. Gardner Canal 230. Garthby 15. Gasp^ 67. — (bay) 67. — ' rpe) 67. — (peninsula) 67. 2. Gaspereaa 119. — Lake 120. Gastineau Channel 234. Gatineau. the 148. 149. 143. rieorge I.'^land 1*^. — Lake (\. H.) 135. (U. S.) 9. 10. Geor;j:e\s River b^S. (ioor^etown (Ont.) 104. 169. — (P. E. I.) 93. hibiiion Building 81. Fortifications 77. 80.82. Freshwater 80. Gaol 79. Garrison Chapel 82. Glebe House 79. Government House 78. Granville Street 79. Green Market 80. Halifax Club 78. 75. Harbour 80. History 76. HoUia Street 75. 78. Holy Cross Cer eterv 81. Hotels 74. Industry 76. Lockman Street 79. Lumber Yard 78. Macnab's Island 80. 82. 83. Market 80. Masonic Hall 79. Methodist Churches 82. Military Hospital 82. Naval Hospital 80. ' — Yard 89. Xorth-West Arm 82. Ordnance Yard 80. Parliament Building 78. Penitentiary 81. Point Pleasant Park 80. Poor House 81. Post Office 75. 78. Presbyterian College79. Provincial Museum 78. Halifax : Public Gardens 81. Railway Stations 74. 79. 80. Restaurants 74. Sackville Street 77. Sacred Heart Convent 81. St. George 82. — John S2. — l.uke 82. — Mary s Cathedral 79. Hall 79. — Matthew 79. — Patrick 82. — Paul 79. Churchyard 70. — Stephen 81. Spring Garden Road 79. Steamers 74. Tramways 74. Universalist Church 82. Victoria Hospital 81. Wanderers' Club 81. 75. Water Street 79. Wellington Barracks 82. Young Men's Christ. Assoc. 79. Halls Bay 116. Hamburg 5. Hamilton 168. 172. HammiFs Point 103. Hammond 222. — River 130. llampstead 131. Hampion (N. B.) 70. — (N. H.) 15. — Beach 15. Hantaport 118. 73. Harbour au Bouche 87. — Briiain 110. — Grace 114. Harcourt 70. Harb'ka 16. 63. Harlem 11. — River 8. 9. Haro, Canal de 224. Harrisbure 172. 164. Harrison 222. — Hot Springs 222. — Lake 222. Harrowby 199. Hartford 11. Hartiand 136. Harvey CS.B.) 32. — (N.S.) 70. Harwood 153. Hastings (B.C.) 223. Havelock (N.B.) 135. ■ (N.S.) [0. — (Ont.) 151. Havre 5. 6. Hawk Lake 193. Hawkesbury (N.S.) 88. 87. 89. — (Ont.) 143. 1.50. Head Harbour (Campo- bello) 140. Heart's Content 114. 112. Heath Point 2. Heatherton (Nfd.) 115. — (N.^.) 87. Hebertville 66. Hect.r 212. — , Mt. 211. — Pass 212. Heilleyville Junction 52, Heligoland 5. Hen.lryx 218. Herkimer 12. Hermit, the 21 L Hermitage, the 52. — Cove 110. Heron Bay 191. Herring Cove 83. Highgate Springs H. High Point 61. — liiver 206. Hill Crest 190. Hillsborough (N.S.) 70. — , the (P.E.I.) 96, 95. 97. 98. Hochelaga 33. 142. Holdsworth, Mt. 229. Holland Landing 159. — River 159. Hole-in-the-Wall Mt. 211. Holkam Bay 234. Holvoke 11. Hope (B.C.) 222. Hopedale (Labrador) 113. Hopewell 85. — Hill 70. Ilorton Landing 119. Hot Springs (Banff) 209. Houlton 32. Howae Pass 212. Hudson (N.Y.) 9. — (Ont.) 1.50. — , the 9. 8. 12. Hull 147. 143. 148. number 168. -. the (Nfd.) 111. 100. 115, 116, (Ont.) 154. 159. Hunter River 97. Hunter's Island 230. Iluntsville 161. Kurd, Cape 181. Huron, Lake 181. 190. XXXV ii. Iceboro J 42. Icy Strait 235. 16* 244 INDEX. Tgnace 193. lUecillewaet 217. — , the 21&. 217. — r,lacier 215. Inilian Beach (Or. Manan) 141. — Brook 116. — Head 2(il. — River 162. — Pon.l 116. Indiantown (Northum- berland, N.B.) 69. — (St. John, N.B.) 130. 129. 124.^ Ingersnll 172. Inglismaldie, Mt. 210. 211. lugolf 194. lona S8. Irnnbound Island 83. Lsland Pond 18. Isle Madame 90. — Vertc 64. Ivanhoe 151. .Tackfish 191. Jackson 15. Jacques Cartier River 53. 34. Jacquet River 68. Jahdebusen 6. Janvrin 89. Jeanotte, the 53, Jebogue Point 85. Jemseg River 131. Jervis Inlet 229. Jesus Island 150. Joggins 72. — Shore 72. Johnson, Mt. 14. 28. Johnstone Strait 229. Joliette 33. Jones' Falls 149. Jonquiere 56. Jordan 169. — , the (N.S.) 84. Jc^eph, Lake 163. Juddhaven 163. Juneau 284. Kabishquashing, the 191. Kakabeka Falls 193. Kalmar 194. Kiiministiquia 190. 183. 193. Kamloops 219. — Lake 220. Kamouraska 63. Kananaskis 206. Kaslo 218. Katrine 161. Kearsarge, Mt. 15. Keefer's 22i. Keewatin (district) 200. xxvii. XXX. — (Ont.) 194. Keith 206. Komn;iy 200. Kempenfeldt B;\y 159. Kemptville Junction 151. 148. Kennebec, the 142. Kennt'becasis, the 70. 71. 130 — Bay 130. 71. — Inland 1.30. Kennedy Island 230. Kenogami, Lake 62. 56. Kensington 97. Kent Junction 69. Kentville 120. Keswick 135. Kicking-Horre Pass 212. Kildonan 198. 193. Killarney 181. Killisnoo 234. Kiiworthy 161. Kincardine 164. Kineo, Mt. 32. King 159. — 3it. 213. Kingsclear 135. King's Cove 112. Kingsport 120. 73. 119. Kingston 184. 149. 152. — Junction 152. — Wh»rf 131. Kingsville 166. Kiskiaink 54. Kootenay. the 218. 213. 214. xli. — Lake 218. Kruzoff Island 236. Kupreanolf Island 283. Labrador 113. 2. 101. XXXV. Lacadie 10. Lac k la Tortue 34. Lachevrotiere 34. Lachine 187. 30. 150. 151, 152. — Rapids 187. 30. 150. Lachute 143. La Cloche Mts. 181. Laggan 211. La Hache, Lac 220. — Hague, Cape 6. — Have River 83. — Hogue, Cap^^; 6. Lairet, the 51. Lake Clear 12. — Edward 53. — of the Woods 194. 193 - River 220. — View 32. Lake Village 13. Lamaline 110. La Manche 115. Lama Passage 230. Lancaster (Out.) 1^6. 152. — (US.) 15. Langivin 203. La Niche 61. Lanoraie 35. Lansdowne 152. La Perouse Mt. 235. — Poile 111. Laprairie 30. Larchwood 190. Laskeys Landing 130. Laurentian orLaurentide Mts. 52. 31 36. 48. Laurentides 53. L.tvaltrie 85. Lawrencetown 121. Leamington 166. 171. Leanchoil 213. Leaside Junction l.')l. Le Conte Glacier 283. Ledge, the 139. Leduc 204. Lee, the 4. Lefroy 159. — , Mt. 211. 212. Leitche's Creek 88. Lennox Passage 89. Lennoxville 31. 18 Lerox 165. Lepreaux 138. Les Eboulements 57. — Ecureuils 86. Lesqueti Isla-id 229. Lethbridge 208. 206. Le:vis 48. Lewiston 168. Liard, the 205. xl. Lievre, the 143. 149. Liilooet 220. Lily Lake 129. Lindsay 151. L'Islet 63. Little Bay 112. 116. — Current 181. — Dalles 218. — Falls 12. - Slave Lake 205. Lituya Mt. 235. Liverpool (Eng.) 1. 8. 4. — (N.S.) 84. Livingstone Range 203. Lizard, the 6. Lockport 84. Locust Hill 151. Logie Bay 108. Lomond, Loch 129. London 166. 171. Londonderry (Ire.) 2. .- (N.S.) 73. INDEX. 245 Longford 160. Long Harbour 115. — Island (near Digby) 123. ' (near Wolfville) 119. (St. John Riv.) 131. — — Sound 11. — Lake 74. — Range (Kfd.) HI. 100. — .^ault Rapids (Ottawaj River) 149. (St. Lawrence) 186. Longue Pointe 35. Longueuil 30. 35. Longwood 166. Loon Lake 12. — River 192. Loop.i, the (C.P. R.)217. 215. Lorette, Anoienne 34. — . Indian 52. 51. — , Jeune .52. 51. — Falls 53. L'Orignnl 149. Loring 232. Lolbiniere 36. Louisbourg 93- Louise, Lake 211. Louise ville 31 36. Louisville 136. Lowell 13. Lower Fort Ga^rry 19S. — French Village 135. Lubec 16. Lucan Crossing 165. Ludlow 69. Lum=den 201. Lunenburg (N.S.) 83. 121. — (U.S.) IH. Lyn 152. Lynn 15. — Canal 234. Lyster 34. Lytton 221. Maas, the 6. 3Iabou 91. — Mouth 86. McAdam Junction 32. McAlpine's 131. Maccun 72. Macdonald, Mt. 214. Macdowali 201. Mace's Bay 138. McKav Reach 230. JIcKay's Mt. 193. Mackenzie (Ont.) 192. — , the 205. 227. etc. — , Mt. 217. 218. Mackinac 182. 181. McLean 201. Macnab'3 Island 18. 80, 82. McNutt^ Island 84. Vadawaska, the 64. 130. Maiagiiadavic 32. 13S. liO. JIaganetawan, the 161. Magdalen (cape) 2. — (river) 2. — Islands 98. Mago- 14. 31. — , the 31. li. Mahone Bay 83. Maillard, Cap 57. .Maitland 74. Mai/.erets 49. Makoping, Lake 101. Malacca Passage 230. Malbaie 58. .Mai Bay 67. Malcolm Island 229. Malfait, Lake 65. Malln Head 2. Ma lone 12. Malpeque i)7. JK'in, Isle of 1. Manchester 15. 13. Manlinttan Island 8. Manilla 151. 153. Manitoba 196. 195. 194. xxvi, — Lake 19?. 199. Manitoulin 181. 190. Manitowaning 181. Man-of-War Head (Cam- vobello) 140. Blansonville 14. -M.-nvers 151. Maple Creek 202. 3Iaplehurst 103. .Marbelton 15. Margaree 91. 86. Maria 67. Marieville 14. Markdale 1^0. Mars Hill 136. 3Iarsliv Hope 86. Marv Lake 161. Marysville 134. 69. Maskinonge 33. Massacre, Tlslet du 65. Massena Springs 186. Massive. Mt^ 211. Matane 3. 65. Mattawa 189. Mattawamkeag 32. 142. Mattawan, the 193. Maugerville 132. Maxville 143. Mayne Island 227. Meadowside 190. Meaford 159. Meccatina, Cape 2. Mechanicsville 9. Medicine Hat 203. Meductic Rapids 136. .Medu.xnekeag, the 136. Mcgantic, Lake 31. M.lissa 161. Melita 2U0. Melville Island 82. — Junction 180. Memphremagng, Lake 11. 31. Memramcook 71. Merasheen Island 110. .Meredith 13. Merigomish 86. Merriniac, the 13. Merrickville 151. Merritton 170. .Mersey, the (Eng.) 1, 4. — , the (N.S.) 84. Metabetchouan, the 56. Metapedi i 66. — , Lake 65. ■ or Metaoediac, the 65. Metchosin 226. Meteghan 123. Me'tis. Grand 65. — , Little 65. — . the 65. Metlakatla 232.^ iliehipicoten 183. 191. Middle Hiver (Pictou) 85. Middleton (N.S.) 120. — (Ont.) 191. Midland 160. 181. Mi'zuick 53. Mile End 142. Milford Bav 162. Millbank Sound 23U. 31 ill Stream 6G. Milltown 139. Milton (Ont.) 166. 169. — (P.E.I.) 97. Milwaukee Junction 165. Minas, Bay of 118. Minneapolis 198 Mirinedosa 199. Minnewanka, Lake 210. Miquelon 116. Mira, the 93. Jliramichi 68. — . the 69. 68. 133. Mirror Lake 212. Miscou G7. 68. Miscouche 97. Mispeck 129. 122. Missanabie 191. Missiguash, the 72. Mission Junction 222. — Point 66. Missisquoi, the 14. Mississippi 188. Missouri Coteau 202. 246 INDEX. Jliatassini, Lake 56. -, the 54. Moat Mt. 15. Bloberley 213. Mobile 109. Mobawk Valley 12. Moira 151. Moisic 2. Jlonadnock, 3It. 13. Moncton 70. 71. Monnoir, Mt. 14. 28. Montarvillc 30. Mtmtebello 1 '\ Montmagny i^ii. Montmorenej Falls 50. Montpelier 11. 13. — Junction 11. Montreal 19. Amusements 19. Archbishop's Palace25. Armoury 2G. Art Gallerv 26. Bank of M'ontreal 23. Baths 20. Blind Asylum 26. Board of Trade 29. Bonsecoura Church 24. — Market 21. Cabs 19. Cathedral, Engl. 26. — , R.C. 25. Cemeteries 23. Champ de Mars 2't:. Christchurch 26. City Hall 24. Clubs 2 K College de Montreal 27, Commerce 22. Commissioners Street 24. Congregational College 27. Consulates 20. Convents 29. Court House 24. Custom House 24 Cyclorama 26. Dalhousie Square 24. Dominion Square 25. Ch. 25. Environs 30. Erskine Ch. 27. Examining Warehouse 24. Exhibition Grounds 29. Exhibitions 20. 26. Eraser Institute 26. Gesu, Ch. of 26. Grey Nunnery 27. Harbour 24. — Office 24. History 21. Hospitals 29. Montreal: Hotel Dieu 28. Hotels 19. House of llefuge 26. Industry 22. Jacques CartierSch. 29- Sq. 24. Jesuit College 26. Lacroix House 24. Laval Univei'sitj 29. McGill Street 2o. — Normal School 27. — University 27. Medical Colleges 27. 28. 29. Messiah, Ch. of the 25. Monklands 29. Mount Royal Park 28. Natural History 3Iu- seum 26. Newspapers 20. New York Insurance Bldg. 23. Notre Dame Church 23. Street 21. 2i. de Lourdes 26. Orphan Asylum 26. Place d'Armes 23. Post Office 20. 23. Presbyterian College 27. Private Houses 29. Railwav Stations 19. 24. 25. 26. ^ Ramezay, Chat, de 2i. Redpath Library 27. Reformatory 27. Reservoir 27. Restaurants 19. St. Andrew 25. — Bartholomew 25. — Catherine St. 21. 26. — Gabriel 24. — George 25. — Helen's .Island 28. — James Ch. 27. St. 21. — Louis Sq. 29. — Patrick 25. — Peter 25. — Sulpice, Seminary 23. Sherbrooke St. 27. Shops 20. Skating Rinks 25. 20. Statue of Bishop Ful- ;ord 26. — — Macdonald 25. MaiaonLSuve 23. Nelson 24. Queen Victoria 26. Steamers 19. Synagogue 29. Montreal : Tele-j;rai>h Offices 20. Theatres 19. Tramways 19. Victoria Bridge 28. — Hospital 28. — Square 25. Viger Square 24. Villa Maria 29. Wesleyan College 27. Windsor Hall 26. — Hotel 25. 19. Young Men's Christian A.ssociation 25. Montreal Junction 30. 150. — Island 30. 19. 150. Monts, Pointe de 2. Moodyville 223. Moon River 164. Moose, the 123. — Creek 143. Moosehead Lake 32. 142. Jloose Island 138. — Jaw 202. - Jlountain District 200. — River 191. Moosilauke, Mt. 13. Moosomin 200. Morell 98. Morley 203. Morris 193. 200. Morrisburg 186. 152. Morristown 186. Morse 202. Mortimer's Point 164. Jlountain Creek 213. Mount Clemens 165. — Desert 142. -- Stewart 93. 97. Mouse, the 200. Moville 2. Muir Glacier 235. IMulgrave 87. 80. Miiniac 136. Murillo, Mt. 193. Murray Bay 58. — Canal 184. Muskoka Lake 162. 164. ■ River 161. 162. 164. — Wharf 161. 162. Musquash River 164. 138. Musk-Rat Lakes 188. Jyrtle 151. Nackawic 135. Nain {Labrador) 113. Nakusp 218. Nanaimo 228. 227. Nancy Head(Campobeiio) 140. Napanee 152. 151. Napinka_200. 198. Nappan 72. INDEX. 247 Nass IMver 231. Nashua 12. 13. Nashwaak, the 69. 130. Nashwaaksis, the 134. Natashqnan 2. Nation, the 143. 140. Natural Steps 56. Navesink Highlands 4. Navv Island (Nia-.) 179. Neche 1'. 8. Needles, the 5. Negro Island 84. Neguac 69. Nelson 218. — , the 199. Nepigon 192. — (lake) 192. — (river) 192. Nepisiguit, the 08. 136. — Bay 68. — Falls 137. New \anan 97. — Bai don 68. — Brighton 1. — Brunswick 133. xxvi. Newburg Junction 135. 136. Newburyport 15. New Carlisle 67. Newcastle (X. B.) 68. — (Ont.) 153. Newfoundland 99. 2. — , Banks of 109. 4. 6. New Germany 121. — Glasgow 86. — Haven 11. — Liverpool 48. Newmarket 159. Newport ()Ie.) 142. — (X. H.) 13. — (N. S.) 117. — (P- Q.l 67. New Richmond 66. 67. — Westminster 222. — Whatcom 222. — York 7. 4. 5. 6. Niagara (N. Y.) 175. 168. etc. — (Ont.) 170. 171. — Escarpment 181. — Falls 173. — , Fort 167. — on-the-Lake 167. — IJiverl74. 167. 185. etc. Nicola Lake 220. — River 220- 221. Nicolet 36. —, the 34. Nicolume, the 222. Nicomen 222. Nictaux 121. Nictor Lake 136. Nigadou 68. Nipissing Junction 162. — , Lake 189. 162. Niverville 198. Noore's Creek 212. Norman 194. — , Cape 99. North, Cape (N. S.) HI. Northampton (N. B.) 136. — (U.S.) 11. North Bay 189. 162. — Bend 221. — Cape (P. E. I.) 98. — Channel 181. 190. — Conway 19. 15. Northern 115 North Hampton 15. — Head (Gr. Manan) 141. — Mills 143. — Mr. 120. 121. 122. Northport 218. North Sea 6. — Shore (.Mass.) 15. — Stratford 15. 18. Northumberland Strait 95. North -West Arm 82. Territories 200. XXVI North Woodstock 13. Norton 70. — 3Iill3 18. Norwood 151. Notch Hill 219. Notre Dame Bay (Nfd.) 112. du Lac 64. du Portage 63. Nottawasaga Bay 159. Novar 161. Nova Scotia 76. xxvi. xx.xvi. Oak Bay (B. C.) 226. (N. B.) 138. — Lake 200. — Point 131. Oakville 168. Ogdensburg 186. Ogilvie's Butte 191. Oka 150. Okanagan Lake 219. Old Barns 74. — Lake Road 63. — Man River 206. — Perlican 112. Olds 20i. Oldtown 142. Old Wives Lakes 202. Olympic Mts. 225. 224. Onaping 190. Onawa 32. Ontario (lake) 167. 184. xxxvi XXXV ii. Ontario (province) 155. xxvi. xxxvi. Orangedale 88. Orangeville (Ont.) 180. Orford, Mt. 14. Orillia 1(30. Orimocto 32. Orleans, Isle of 48. 63. 56. OrmeVs Ilend 4. Ororaocto 132. 130, Orwell 97. Oshawa 153. Osier 201. Ossipee 3Its. 15. Ostersund 194. Oswegitchie, the 18G. Otuabog 131. Otonabee, the 151. Ottawa l43. Art Gallery 147. Basilica 14G. Bridges 146. Cabs 144. Cartier Statue 140, Oathedral 146. Chaudiere Falls 147, City Hall 148. Clubs 144. Collegiate Institute 148. ronsuls 144. Court House 14S. Courts, Supreme Law 146. Drill Hall 148. Environs 118. Kxperimental F;irm 148. Fisheries Exhibit 147. (laol 148. Geological Maaeum 146. Government Buildings 145. Guigues Statue 146. Hotels 143, Kettle Isld.id 148.^ ^ Langevin Block 146. Lansdowne Park 148. Lawn Tennis Club 148, Librai-v of Parliament 145.' Maior\s Hill Park 146. Ministerial Offices 145. 140. Nepean Point 146. Normal School 148. Opera House 144. Parliament, Houses of 145. Post Office 144. Printing Bureau 146. Restaurants 144. Rideao Falls 147. — Hall 117. 248 INDEX, Ottawa : Rifle Range 148. Rockcliffe Park 148. Sparks Street 144. Stanley Institute 148. Steamers 144. Sussex Street 146. Tramways 144. University 148. Water -Works 148. Wellington Street 140. Ottawa, the 140. 142. 187. 21. 35. etc. Otterburne 198. Ottertail 213. — Mts. 212. 213. Ouiatchouan, the 5'l. — Falls 55. 54. Ovens Peninsula 83. Owen Sound ISU. Owl's Head 14. )xbow 200. Oxford 73. Pabineau Falls 68. Pabos 67. Painsec Junction 71. Pakenham 188. Palliser Mts. 210. Palmer's Point 131. Paradise 121. Paris 172. Parkbeg 202. Parkdale (Mafl.) 108. — (Ont.) 164. 165. 108. Parkhill 1U5. Parrs borough 72. 120. Parrv Sound 164. 160. IGl, 18i. Partridge Island (N.B.)17. (N. S.) 73. 122. Paspebiac 67. Pasqua 201. Passaaamkeag 142. Passamaqaoddy Bav 17, 141. 138. Passe Pierre Islets 60. Passumpsic, the 13. Patapedia, the 67. Patterson Glacier 233. Paul Smith's 12. Paul's Peak 219. '^avilion Mt. 220. Peace Rivt^r 205. xl. Pearl River 192. Peechce, Mt. 211. 207. 20S Peekskill 9. Peel 136. Pelee Island 172. — , Point 186. 172. Pembina, the 198. Pembroke 1S8. Penguin Islands 110. Penetang 160. Peninsula (C. P. R.) 191 Pennfield 138. Penny's Mt. 74. Penobscot, the 32. Perec 67. — Rock 67. Perceval 200. Peribonka, tlie 54. Peril Strait 236. Perrot (isl.) 150. 187. Perth 151. 13(i. Peterborough 151. Petitcodiac 70. — , the 70. Petite Roche 68. Petit ^'ord 99. Pett\ Harbour 109. Pic River, the 191. Pickering 153. Piclon 152. Pictou 85. — Landing 86. Piedmont Valley 86. Pigeon Mt. 207. Piles Junction 34. Pilgrim Islands 58. Pilley's Island 112. 100 Pilot Butte 201. — . Mt. 211. Pine, Caite 110. Pitt Island 230. — Lake 223. Pitfs Landing 130. Placentia Bav llO. 99. , Great 114. 110. Plaster Rock 136. Plattsburg 10. Pleasant B.iy 86. — Be ich 66. — Point 138. Plvmouth 13. -'Bay 5. Pogamasing 191. Point a Beaulieu 58. — Bourdo 67. — du Chene 71. — Enrag^ 83. — Levis 48. — Platon 36. — St. Charles 10. - Tapper 87. — Verde 115. Pointe a Pic 58. — aux Anglais (Ottawa Riv.) 150. - aux Trembles (Isl. of Montreal) 35. (near Quebec) 36. — Bleue 55. - du Lac 33. 36. — La Boule 60. — Roches 61. Poland Springs 18, Pol let River 70. Pomquet 87. Ponoka 204. Pont Rouge 34. Poplar Point 199. Poquiock 135. Porcher Island 230. Porcupine Hills 206. Portage 98. Junction 198. 199. — Lake 163. — -la-Prairie 198. 199. Port-a-Port 111. Port Arthur 192. 183. au-Basque 111. — Blanford 115, — Byng IGl. — Carling 163. — Chester 232. — Cockburn 163. — Colborne 170. — Coldwell 191. — Dalbousie 170. -- Daniel 67. — Dover 169. — Hastiiiiis 87. — Hawkesburv 88. 87. 89. — Henrv 10. — Hill 97. — Hood 86. 91. — Hope 153. 184. — Huron 161. 165. — Joli 84. - Kent 10. — Latour 84. — Louis 186. — Medwav 84, — Moody '223. — Mouton 84. — Mulgrave 87, — Nelson 199. — Perry 151. — Sand field 163. — Simpson 227. 231. — Stanley 171. — Townsend 227. — Union 153. — Williams 120. Portland (Me.) 16. 18. 142. — (N. B.) 124. 127. — (Ore.) 227. ~ Inlet 231. Povtneuf 34. 36. Portsmouth 15. Portugal Cove 108. Poughkeepsie 9. Powassan 162. Prescott 186. 148. 152. Presque Isle 137. Presumpscot, the 18. 19. Prince Albert 201. INDEX. 249 Prince Edward Island 94. 95. xxvi. xsxvi. Peninsula 152. 184. - of Wales Island 232. 231. 3j^g 229 Prince.^.s Royal I'^land230. Prince Vv'illiani 135. Profile Honsc 15. Prospect, Mt. (B.C.) 215. Piibnico Harbour 85. Puo;sley''s Island 131. Pugwash 73. Purity, Mt. 216. Purple Springs 203. Put-in-Bay Islands 172. Pyramid Harbour 235. - Peak 235. Q,uaco 71. Q.u^ Appelle 200. -, the 201. Quatawamkedgewick, the 67. Quebec 37. Abraham, Plains of 45. 38. ' All Saints Chapel 42. Amusements 37. Archbishop's Palace 43 Basilica 43. Boswell's Brewery 47, Cabs 37. Cathedral, Anglican 42. — . R. C. 43. Cemeteries 46. Champlain Market 47, — ^Steps 46. — btreet 47. Chateau Frontenac Ho- tel 42. 37. Chien d'Or 43. Citadel 41. 38. City Hall 44. Congregation, Ch. of the 42. Convents 44. Cote de la Montagne 46. Court House 42. Cove Field 45. Custom Hous» 47. Departmental Build- ings 45. Drill Shed 45. Dufferin Terrace 40. Durham Terrace 41. Elevator 38. 47. Environs 48. - Esplanade 42. Ferries 37. Fortification.'^ 41. Caol 45. Gates 41. 42. Quebec 37. Garrison Club 44. Governor's Garden 41, Grand Battery 42. Grande Alle'e 45. Historical Society 44. History 39. Hospitals 47. Hotel Dieu 44. Hotels 37. Immigration Office 47. Lacrosse Grounds 45. Laval University 43. Library -14. Louise Basin 47. Lower Town 38. 46. Markets 42. 47. Martello Towers 45. Methodist Church 44. Montcalm Market 42. — Monument 41. Morrin College 44. Mountain Hiil St. 46. Notre Dame des Vic- toires 46. Observatory 45. Pari lament Building 45, Picture Gallery 43. Place d'Armes 42. Plains of Abraham 45. 38. Post Office 3.8. 43. Railway Stations 37. 47. Restaurants 37. St. Joseph St. 47. — Louis St. 44. — ?aul St. 47. — Peter St. 47. — Roch 38. 47. — Sauveur aS. 4S. Ste. Foys Blon. 46. Sault-au-Matelot 42. Seminary of Quebec 43. Shops 37. Short andWallick Mon. 45. Sillery 46. Skating Rink 45. Sou3-le-Fort St. 47. Spencer Grange 46. — Wood 46. Steamers 37. Tramways 37. Union Club 44. Upper Town 38. Ursuline Convent 44. Walls 42. Wharfs 37. Wolfe Monuments 45. 41. 44. Quebec (province) 40. xxvi. Quebec Junction 15. Queen Charlotte Islands 230. Sound 229. Queensbory 135. Queenston 168. Queensfown 4. Quesnelle 220. Quidi Vidi 1(>8. Quilchenna 220. Quinte, Bay of 152. 184. Quoddy Head 16. Rabbit 3It. 193. Race, Cape 109. 106. 110. 3. Radnor 206. Rainy River 194. — Lake 194. Rantem 115. Rapid City 200. 199. R..pide Plat 186. Rathlin 1. Rat Portage 193. Ray. Cape 111. 99. Reaux Island 57. Red Deer 204. , the 204. — Island 59. — Pine 08. — River 198. 194. 195. Regina 201. Renews 109. RenlVew 180. Renuie 194. Repentigny 35. Restigouche, the 66. 133. 137. Reston 199. Rt -elstoke 217. Revillagigedo 232. Rice Lake 151. 152. Richelieu, the 35. 31. 10. 14. 34. 11. Richford 14. Richibucto 69. Richmond 34. 18. — Bay 97. Rideau, the 151. 143. — Canal 148. — Lakes 148. 149. 151, Ridgetown 171. Ridout 191. Ri lud 1.50. Rigolet (Labrador) 113. Rimouski 65. 3. -, the 65. River Denvs 88. — John 73. Riversdale (Lunenburg, N.S.) 121. — (near Truro, N.S.) 85. Riverside 70. 71. 250 INDEX. Riviere a Pierre 53. — a Rouge 60. — au Rats 53. — aux Sables 56. — des Chiens 50. — du Loup 63. — Ouelie 63. Roach's Point 159. Robbinatoa 139. Roberval 54. Robson 218. Rochester (N.H.) 15. — (N.Y.) 15:3. Rockcliffe 1-^9. Rockford ISO. Rockland 149. Rockwood 164, Ruckv Lake 74. — Mts. 203. 207. 213. xxiiviii. xli. etc. Park 20S. Rogers Pass 214. 215. — Range 217. Romford 190. Rosados lies 3. Rose Blanche 111. — Head 83. Rosenfeld 198. 200. Rosseau 163. — , Lake 163. Rossignol, Lake 84. Ross Peak Siding 217. Rossport 191. Rosthern 201. Rothesay 71. Rotterdam 6. Rougemont Mt. 11. 14. Roundhill 121. Round Island (St. Law- rence) 185. Rouse's Point 10. RoyaL Mt. 21. Royalty .1 unction 97. 98. Ruby Creek 222 Rundle, Mt. 211. 209. Rush Lake 202^ Rusiagornis 135. Russell 199. Rustico 97. Ryp Beach 15. Sable, Cape 18. Sackville 71. Saginaw Channel 234. Saguenay, the 60. 55. 3, — , the Little 58. St. Agapit 34. — Albans 11. Head 5. — Alexif 61. — Alphonse 31. — Ambroii^e 53. — Aaadet 65. St. Andrews 138. 32. Channel !»2. Crossing 138. — Anne 67. Mt •. 2. — Anne's Bay 91. — Anselme 16. ~ Anthony 112. — Augustin 36. — Basil 137. — Bernard's 123. — Boniface 194. 197.198. — Brigide Road 14. — Catharine's ((Jnt.)169. (PAD 53. Bay 60. — Charles 63. , the 38^ 51. 49. , Lake 51. — Cesaire 14. — Clair Lake 165. 166. River 16o. 166. 185. Tunnel 165. — Croix,thel39. 32. 1J7. — Dunstan's 97. — Elias Mt. 237. — Eustache 142. — Etienne Bay 60. — Fabien 64. — Famine 49. — Felix de Valois 33. — Fereol, Falls of 5L — Francis 15. , the 15. 18.31.130. , Cape 111. , Lake 186. — Francois 36. 49. 63. 57. , Cap 61. Xavier 57. — Gabriel 53. — — de Brandon 33. — Geddon 56.. — George 138. , Cape 86. — George's Bay (N.S.) 87. 89. — — Channel 4. — Germain de Rimouski 65. — Guillaume 14, 86. — Henri 10. 152, ~ Hilaire 64. , Mt. 30. 34. — Hyacinthe 34. — Iremie 58. — Jacques (Nfd.) 110. — Jean 49. 57. des Chaiilons 36 Port Joli. 63. — Jerome 56, — Joachim 51. St. John (N.E.) 124. Amusementti 124. 12:. John 128. 128. 128. 125. 127. St. John: Banks 124. Baptist Churches 127, Bishop's Palace 127. Cabs 124. Cantilever Bridge 129. Cathedral 127. Charlotte Street 126. City Hall 126. — Hospital 127. Consuls 124. Courtenay Bay 12S. Court House 126 Custom House '' * 1 Exhibition Buiiuiugs I 126. FpI^ of St. Ferries 1 Fort Howe (Jaol 126. (Jermain Street 125. Harbour 128. Historical Society 126, History 125. Hotels 124. Jenny's Spring 128. King Sauare 126. — Stree't 126. 125. Jdbravv 127. Lily Lake 128. Lunatic Asylum 129. Madras School 127. Marino Ho,-pital 127. Market 126. — Slip 126. — Square 126. Marsh Bridge 127. MiTtello Tower 128. Masonic Temple 127. Mechanics Institute 127, Methodist Churches 127. Militarv Grounds 126. Mt. Pleasant 127. 125. Museums 126. Natural Hidtory Socie- ty 126 Navy Island 128. 125. Old Graveyard 126. Orphan A-vIum 127. Post Oftie.3'124. 126 Prince William Street 12s. Public Library 127. Queen Square 125. 126 Raihviy Stations 124, 127. Reed's Poini Wharf 126. 124. — Tower 128. INDEX. 251 St. John: Sarrod Heart C.invent 128. St. Andrew" =» 127. — David's i?T. — Jamos\s 127. — .Tohn\s 127. — ,Tohn Bapfst's 1.27. — Stephen^ 127. Skali-ng Rink 1'27. Steanie'-s 124. 8tone Chni .h 127. Susper.sion Bridge i2S. Tramways 124. Trinity Ctiurch 127. Victoria Scbcol 127. Wiggins f>rphana'.;e 127. Young Men's Christ. Association 127. St. John, the 13(1. 125). , Cape (Nfd.) 112. . Lake M. 16it. — John^sCP.Q.) 10. 11.31. fNld.) 105. Bav 60. — Johnsbnry 13. 10. — Josepli 48, , Lake 53. — ' Lambert 10. i'u — Laurent 49. 57. — Lawrence (Gulf) (river) 185. 2 35. 48. xxxvi. etc. — Leouard's 137. — Leon Springs 33. — Lin 142. — Louis 70. G9. , the 185. Lsle 60. , Lake 150. 187. — Male 15. -- Margaret's Bav 82. 83. — Martin'."? 71. Junction 33. 142. — Maurice, the 33. -- Mary's (N.B.) 134. 135. fOnt.) 165. Bay 110. 123. River (Lake Hur- on) 182. 185. (lf..b.) 87. — Michel de Kellechasse 57. 63. •— Norbert 198. — Octave 65. — Paschal 63. — Patrick's Channel (Ire.) 1. (N.S.) 91. — Panl 198. — PauV;) Bay 57. — Pete.'*, Lake 36. 9 149. Gt. Peter's (C. B. L ( 90. (P. I-;. T.) 98. Bay 98. — Pierre (Montmaguy, P. Q.) 63. — - (Nicolet, P. Q.)5I. (Isle d'Orldansj — — , i.'iland 116. — Polyearpe 151. 143. — Prime ,55. — Havmond 53. Regis 186. — Borauald 4S. v^-.^ott's 110. Simon 64. — .Stephen 139. liiS. 32. Sulpice 35. — Tboma'' (Ont.) 171. (P. Q.) 63. — Tite 34. ~ Valier 57. 63. Ste. Agathe 142. — Anne, the 53. de Eeaxipr(5 50. — — de la Perade 34. 36. — — de la Pocaticre 63. — — de Sagdenay 62. 55. — — du Bout de risle 150. 151. 152. 187. Falls 51. Mts. 51. Peninsula 92. — Cecile dn Bic 64. — Flavie 65. — Julie 34. — Justine 143. — Marguerite, the (X). — Pelronille de Boaulieu 49. — Scholastiaue 143. — The're.«e 142. Salamanca 135. Salem 15. Salisbury 70. Salmon Lake 66. — River, the 85. 73. 74. 130. Saltcoats 199.^ ■Salt Springs 73. Sambro, Cape 18. 83. Sand Point 188. Sandusky 172. Sandwich Mts. 15. Saudv Hook 4. — Point (Nfd.) 111. San Juan Islands 225. 22S. — — de Fuca , Strait of 225. 226. Saranac Inn 12. — Lake 12. Saratoga Springs 9. Sarnia 165. Saskatchewan 200. xxvii. Sa^kateheuan. the 199. 20<> 201. Siiskatoon 2'Jl. viugeen Peninsula 181.' SauIt-au-RecolIet 30. 3 142. — -Ste-Marie (Can.) 183. 181. IW. (I . S.) 182. ir-o. ^lavage's Island 73. Savr»me l!tr>. Siivon;> 220. Sawba(k .Mts. 211. Sawyerville 15. Sayabec 65. Scarborough Junctionl53. Scatari 93. S-heMe, the 6. Schenectady 12. Schlosser Landing 179 Schooner Head (Cam]»o- bello) 150. >^chreiJ>er 191. Scilly Isles 5. 6. Scottstowu .31. ■^cott J\inction 16. Scugog. liake 1-51. Seaforth Channel 2^30. Seal Cove (Gr. Manan) 141. — Island (Bay of Fundy) 85. (N. S.) 18. Islands 141. Seattle 222. Sebu^o Lake 19. Seboois 32. Secretan 202. Selkirk 194. 198. -, East 194. — , West 198. — Mts. 213. 214. xli. — Summit 214. 215. Senneville (chat.) 1.50. Sergent, Lake 53. St ■pentlsland(L.Simcoe) 160. — River 181. Seven Islands (bay) 2. — Persons 203. Severn IdO. Sewall 199. Scymoar "Narrows 229. Shadow Lake 212. — River 163. Shakspeare 165. Shannonville 152. vSharbot Lake 151. Junction 151. Sharp, Cape 120. Shawanegan Falls 34. Shawnigan Lake 227. Shediac 71. — Bay 71. 252 INDEX. Sheffield 131. Shefford Mt. 14. 28. Shelbourne 124. Shelburne 84. Shelby Junction 203. Shcogomac, the 136. SUepody Bav 70. 71. Sherbrooke '(N. S. ) 87. — (P. q.) 31. 18. 14. ShickshockMts. 67. xxsv. Shippegan 67. 68. Shoal Harbour 115. — Lake 1H9. Shubenacadio 74. — , the 74. Shusv/ap 219. — Lakes 219. xli. Sicamous 219. Signal Hill (Nfd.) 107. 105. Sillerv 36. 46. Silver Bow Mines 234, — City 211. — Islet 183. Sinacoe, Lake 160. 159. Similkameen 220. 222. Simpson's Pass 211. Sing Sing 9. Sintaluta 201. Sir Donald, Mt. 216. 214. Sissibou 123. Sitka 236. Six-Mile Creek 213. Skeena, the 230. Skeleton Lake 161. 163. Skerries, the 4. Skiff Lake 32. Skroder's Mill 53. Slate Mts. 211. Slocan 218. Smith's Falls 151. 148. Snowdon 4. Soda Creek 220. Solent, the 5. Somerset 34. Sorel 35. Soukhoi Channel 233. Souris (Man.) 199. 200. — (P. E. I.) 98. Southampton (Eng.) 5. 6. — (N. B.) 136. — (Ont.) 1(1! South Durham 34. Southern Head (Campo- bello) 140. South Indian 143. — Mountain 121. 122. Southport 97. youth Eivei (Ont.) 162. South -West Head (Gr. Manan) 141. Spallumsheen District 219. 217. Spanish River 181. 190. 191. Sparrow Lake 160. Spear, Cape 99. 109. Spencer, Cape 122. Spence'3 Bridge ,21. 220. Spider Lake 31. Spilimicbene, see Spal lumsheen. Split, Cape 120. — Fock Rapids 186. Spokane 218. Spoon Island 131. Sprague's Cove (Gr. Ma- nan) 141. Spray, the 2a8. Springfield (Mass.) 11. — (N. S.) 121. Springhill(N.B.)135.134. — (N. S.) 72. 73. Spruce Lake 138. Spuyten Duyvil 9. 8. Spuzzum 222. Stadacona 53. Stamford 11. Stanbridge 11. 14. 36. Stanfold 34. Statue Point 61. Stellarton 85. Stephen 212. — , 3It. 212. 213. Stephens Passage 234. Sterritt\s 131. Stewiaeke 74. — , the 74. Stikine, the 233. Stonewall 199. Stonev Creek (Ont.) 169. Stony Creek (B. C.) 214. — Lake 162. — Squaw Mt. 20S. Stratford 165. Streetsville 166. Stui-geon, the 190. Sudbury 190. xliii. Suffleld 203. Sugar Loaf (Antigonish) S7 — ~ (Campbellton) 66. , 3It. (B. C.) 216. — Island 135. Sulphur Springs (Ottawa) 148. — Mts. 211. 208. Sumas City 222. Sum Dum Bay 234. Summerside 97. 71. 94. Summit Lake 218. Peak 214. Sundance Canon 210. Sundridge J62. Superior, Lake 183. 191. xxxvii. Suspoiision Bridge Station 170. Sussex 70. Sutherland River S6. Sutton .Junction 14. Swift Current 202. Sydenham, the 180. Sydney 92. 88. — Coal Fields 93. — , North 92. 88. Sylvester 85. Tableau, Le 61. Tabusintac 69. Tacoma 227. Tadousac 59, Taku Inlet 234. Tamagamingue, Lakei89. 190. Taniramar, the 72. — Marshes 71. Tarrytown 9. Tatamagouche 73. Teeswater 180. Temiscamingue,Lakel89. Temiscouta, I-ake 64, 138. Temple, Mt. 211. Terminal City (N. S.) 89. Terra Nova 115. Tete-a-Gauche, the 68. Texada Island 229. Thames, the 165. 166. Thamesford 166. Thessalon 181. i'JO. Thetford 15. Thomas Bay 233. Thompson, the 219. 220. 221. Thorburn Lake 115. Thousand Islands (St. Lawrence) 185. (Saguenav) 55. Three Mile Lake 161. 163. — Rivers 33. 36. 34. — Sisters 207. — Valleys Lake 218. Thunder Bay 183. 192. — Point 183. 192. Thurso 149, Ticonderoga 10. Tignish 98. Tillev, Mt. 217. Tilt Cove 112. Tintamarre Marshes 71. Tobique, the im. 136. 187. Toledo 170. Tolmie Channel 230. — , Mt. 226. Tonawanda 1G8. Torbay 108. Torbrook Mines 120. Tormentine, Cape 71. Toronto 153. INDEX. 253 Toronto : Amusement =i 154. Arcades 156. Armouries 157. Art Exhibitions 154. Athletic Club 157. Banks 155. 156. Kloor Street 154. Board of Trade 155. Brown Statue 157. Cabs 153. Canada Lite Assur. Co. 15G, Canadian Institute 156. — Yacht Club 159. 154. Cathedrals 1.56. Cemeteries 159. Church Street 156. City Hall 156. , Old 156. Clubs 154. College Avenue 156. Collegiate Institute 15S. Confederation Life As- soc. Bldg. 156. Consuls 154. Court House 156. Custom House 155. Dental College 157. Don, Ravine of the 159. Environs 159. ExhibitionGroundslSS. Exhib:Hons 154. Forts 158. Front Streei 154. 15-^^. • Globe Office 155. Government House 157. Grange, the 158. • High Park 158. History 154. Horticultural Gardens 158. Hospital 158, Hotels 153. Incurables , Home for 158. Industry 155. Island, the 158. Jarvis Street 154. King Street 155. 154. Knox College 157. Law School 156. Library 156. Long Branch 159. 153. Lome Park 159. 153. Lunatic Asylum 158. Mail Office 156. McMaster University 157. Metropolitan Meth. Ch. 156. Modpl School 156. MusxC, College of 157. Toronto ; — Halls 1,56. 1,58. 15i. Normal School 156. Osgood e Hall 156. Parliament Building 157. , Old 157. Pharmacv. Coll. of 157. Po^t Offlo' 15i. 156. Prison 158. Public Library 156. Queen's Hotel 155. 153. — Park 156. Queen Street 1.56. Railway Stations 153. 155. Reformatory 15S. Restaurants 153. Riverdale Park 159. Rosedale 153. 151. Ryerson Statue 156. St. Alban'3 Cath. 158. — George Street 154. — James's Cathedral 156. — Lawrence Hall 15B. — Jlichaers Cathedral 156. College 157. Sherhourne Street 154. Simcoe Street 157. Steamers 153. Theatres 154. Trade 155. Tramways 153. Trinity College 158. — ileulcl School 157. University of Toronto 157. Upper Can. Coll. 158. , Old 158. Veterinary College 156. Victoria College 1,57. — Park 159. 153. Volunteer Mon. 157. Wellington Street 154. Wycliffe College 157. Yonge Street 154. 155. Toronto Junction 165. Tory Island 2. 3. 6. Touchwood Hills 201. Tourmente, Cape 57. 51. Tracadie (N. S.) 87. — (P. Q.) 69. — Bay 98, Traeadiegash, Mt. 67. Traverse, Cape 97. 71. Tread well Gold Mines234. Trent, the 152. Trenton 152. 184. — Falls 12. Trepassey 110. Trinity (Nfd.) 112. ''rinityBay(Xfd.)9n. 112. 114. (P. Q.) 61. — , Cape 60. Trois Pit^oles 64, 3. — Rivieres 33. 34. 36. Trout Creek 162. Trov (N. H.) 12. — (N. Y.) 10. Truro 73. 85. Tsimpsean Peninsula 230. Tuladi. the 64. Tunnel Mt. 209, Tupper Lake Junction 12. — Mt. 214, Tuskst, the 124, 85. — Islands S5. — Lake 124. Tweed 151. Twilllngate 112. Twin Butte 21 7, Two Mts,, Lake ot the 150, Unalaska 237. Uniacke, Mt, 117. Upsala 193, Upsalquitch, the 67. Upton 34. Utica 185. Utopia. Lake 138. Utterson 161. Valcartier 53. VaMes Island 229. ' Valleyfield 12. Vanceboro 32, Vancouver 223. — Island 227. Van He me Mts. 212. 213. Vankl^ak Hills 143. Vanwart's 131, Va'-ennes 35. Vaucluse 33. Vaudreuil 151. 152. Vaux, Mt. 213. Vercheres 35, Vermilion Forks 220. — Lakes 210. 211. — Pass 211. — River 190. Vernon 219. Verstovaia, Mt. 236. Victoria (B, C.) 225. 228, xliv. — (N. B.) 135. -. Mt. 211. Park 19S. — Peak (Van. lel.) 229. Victor Lake 218. Ville Marie 114. Virden 200. Virginia Water 106. 254 INDEX. Waasis 135. Wabella 200. Wabigoon 193. Wubouchbagama, the 61. Wachusett, Mt. 12. Wahnapitfe 190. Wakefield 148. Walcheren 6. Walkerville 166. Wallace 73. — Valley 73. Waltham 12. Waptii Lake 212. — , the 212. 213. Waputtehk Mts. 211. Washademoak. the 130. — Lake 131. Washago 160. Washington. Mt. 15. Waterbury 11. W^aterdown 168. Waterford 171. Waterville 142. Watt Junction 31^. Weed Lake 200. Weedon 15. Weirs 13. Welchpool (Campobello) 140. Welland Canal 170. Wellington (B.C.) 227.223. — (P. E. I.) 97. Wells River Junction 11. 13. Wentworth 73. Weser, the 6. West, Cape 61. — Bay Road 88. — Chazy 10. Westbourne 199. Westfield 130. West Fort William 193. Westminster Junction 222. Westminster Park 186. Weston 164. 180. Westport (N. Y.) 10. — (Ont.) 152. West River (P. E. I.) 97, (Pictou) 85. Westville 85. Wetaskiwin 204. Wexford 4. Weymouth 123. Whale Cove 141. Wliarnock 222. Whitbourne Junction 114. Whitby 153. Whitetish Ray 183. Whitehall 10. White Hills 116. — Man Pass Trail 207. — Mts. 18. 15. Whitemouth 194. White River lOl. Junction 11. 13. Whitewe y 115. Whitewood 200. Whittle, Cape 2. Whvcocomagh 91. Wiarton 164. 181. Wii£ht, Isle of 5. 6. Williams Creek 220. Wilmot 120. — Spa Springs 120. Wind Mt. 207. Windermere (C. P.R.) 191. — (Lake Rosseau) 163. Windsor (N. S.) 118. — (Ont.) 166. 170. 171. — (Vt.) 11. — Junction 74. 117. — Lake 108. Windv Lake 191. Wingham 180. Winifred 203. Winnepesaukee, Lake 13. 15. Winnipeg 194. 199. — Junction 198. — Lake li)4. Winona 169. Wolfeborouirh 15. Wolfe Island 167. 185. Wolfe's Cove 36. 45. 46. Wolf River 132. Wolfville 119. Wolseley 201. Wolves, the 140. Woman River 191. Woodpecker 203. Woods, Lake of the 194. 193. Woodstock (N. li.) 136. 135. 32. — (Ont.) 166. 172. — Road 135. Wrangell Narrows 233. Wright's Sound 230. — Mt. 235. Yale (B, C.) 222. Yamachiche 33. Yam ask a 36. — , the 34. 14. — Mt. 14. 28. Yarmouth (Me.) 18. — (N. S.) 123. 85. 17. Yoho 163. Yonkers 9. York (Ont.) 153. — , the (Gaspe) 67. (P. E. I.) 05. 96. 97. Yorktown 199. _ Youngstown 16 ^ Yukon, the 231. 235. 227. xxxix. Zarembo Island 232. Zealand (N. B.) 135. I- (N. H.)15. 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