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Les diagrammes sulvants illustrent la m6thode. rrata EG pelure, n A ■I □ 32X I 1 2 3 2 y b 6 ■.•-;c.t.ji.»v,*^.AM(>MC*:*aft»--*m!ii^..f,. .■^■. - EMIGRATION, OR NO EMIGRATION; BIINO TMK NARRATivE OF THE AUTHOR, t (an ENGLISH FABMEb) FROM THE YEAR 1924 to 1830; DURING WHICH TIME HE TRAVERSED THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, AND THE UBITISH PROVINCE OF CANADA, A VIEW TO SETTLE AS AN EMIGRANT : CONTAIHINO OBSERVATIONS ON THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OP THE PEOPLE— THE SOIL AND CiKKATE OV THE COUNTRIES; ||teND A COMPARATIVE STATEMENT QF^FRED IN TH: ' OjyEUE A a pnioMS E ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAQES STATES AND CANADA : TBCI BNABLINO PBBIOMS TO VOBM A JUOOHBNT ON THE PROPRIETY OF EMIGRATING. BT JOSEPH PICKERING, LATB OF Fmny Stratford, Buckinghanuhire. : LONDON : PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR ; PUBUSHBI> BY LONGMAN, REES, ORHE, BROWN, AND GREEN ', %, AND TO n HAD OV ALL BOOKSBLLBBI. 1830. mmrmmnm'mmnm^ LONDON : PRINTED BY S, MANNINO AND CO. iMndon-Honae YuMlkPanPs. IB 1 - n iwiii um: don: tlAKNINO AND CO. Y|iMlkPanP9. CONTENTS. '«'■ - , ■ .Sift iNTRODvcnoM. — On the Causes of Emigration CHAPTER I. The Aathor's motives for Emigrating^Pieparation for the VoTaM — Embarkation, and Pasitage out . . . . . CHAPTER n. Arri^ at Baltimore— Descripti^ of the Town, ite luhabitantf, and Customs— Excursions in the Neighbourhood, andconljnuea residence— with a variety of MuKellaneous Remarks CHAPTER UL Jraraey from Baltimore to Buffidoe and Canada, ia the Steam Boat, to Ae Head of the Bw— By land to PhiladeliAia— Pro- duce and CultivaUon of the Country—Further proceedings - CHAPTER IV. Arrival in Ui»per Canada— Comparison of the Sute on each side *T 5 Erie— Introduction to Col. Talbot— Inspection of Lota of Land—Enmgement with him— Hu Establishment— Modes of Cultivation— Natural Produce and various placei noticed CHAPTER V. ^"h T"i*»*'» S™*' ^"den. Md Orchaids described— Journey to Fort &»— The Country, its Produce and Resources . . 45 CHAPTER VI. Departare fifom Colonel Talbot's— Road-making, and a Settler's Estabbshment described — Capabilities of the Country, and Mamma of the Residents noticed— Arrival at Ancaster. and Joura^ to York . . . • . . . . . 68 27 36 ii CONTENTS. MM CHAPTER VII. Opening of the Colonial Session -Various Jouraeys ^om York Ia natural Oil Spring-Canadian AucUon-A ""teh Settle- ment— Amherstburgh, Sandwich, and other Places— A Voyage on Lake Erie, and Detroit River descnbef - - CHAPTER VIII. General Habita, Customs, and Modes of Cultivation nractis^ by original Setters, desoribed-The Value of Canada to Grert BrLn-Thoughts on the original Extent of t^e Lakes -State of the Foresto-Produce of &e Land, and the Outgoings and Profitt of a Farm shevfn 7B IQO CHAPTER IX. Departure from Upper Canada to Quebec, and Return to Engtand 113 APPl'KDIX. 1. General Observations— The Western Lakes - 2. Taxes of Upper Canada - - - - - 3. Religious Institutions 4. Laws and Liberties 5. Roads and Bridges - - ; . ' ' 6. Government Notice for Granto of Land 7. Passage by New York to Canada ' ," 8. Passage by way of Quebec to Upper Canada - 9. a^te of Expenses, and Quantity of Provisions forVoyage ■ 10. Varioua Opinions on the Province of Canada - - 134 127 iV. ib. 138 ib. 130 ib. ib. 132 INTS. FAOB !R VII. - Various Journeys from York an Auction— A Dutch Settlo- , and other Places— A Voyage describeil - - • - 78 :r VIII. des of Cultivation practised by e Value of Canada to Great il Extent of the Lakes— Stote Land, and the Outgoings and „ ■ ' - ■ • *y^ ER IX. luebec, and Retunt to England 113 KDIX. tistem Lakes - I of Land ada ... Upper Canada lantity of Provisions for Voyage ince of Canada - 124 - 127 - i\). . ib. - 138 . ib. . 130 ib. ib. 132 «r PREFACE. Tmr privationa and distreai of tb« manufacturing diatricts, and the embarraaaments of the farming intereata, combined with the attention turned towarda Emigration aa a remedy for the evil, haa induced the Author of thia work, to endea- vour to supply the apparent want of practical and aii;thentia information reapecting the superior advantages of Upper Canada, by detailing his povjonal narrative, from leiviug England to aettling in that province. It will be Ibund to comprise hia paaaage out to the United States, ^ith six months travels and reaidence therein; upwards of four yeara aojourn in Upper Canada, hia travela throngh I^wer Canada, 'and return to England, via Ireland. He has en- deavoured to detail a clear atatement of facts, with remarks on the aoU and climate of America, — the cuatoma and man* . ners — and a pfirticular deacriptioh of the methods of clears ing the aoil and cultivating the lar j, with the prices of stock, grain, &c. He has also given a comptirative statement of the views held out by the United States and Upper Canada* aa the best for British Emigrants ; in which he flatters him- self Uiat the superior advantages of the latter to farmers, farm-laboaiei3: and most nsefiil trad^snten, will be fully s« ir PREFACK. proved ; and as an Appendix, lie has stated many particulars useful to whoever may proceed to either of those places. He would not recommend those that are fsr advanced in years, except with younger branches of their families, or are comfortably situated, with small families, in com- merce, trades, or placemen, and not losing money, (unless persons of enterprise, who could set diflSculties at defiance) to emigrate to any country ; as all emigrants that were com- fortably situated, and particularly those from England, must make some sacrifice to obtain any future success. The disadvantages of all new countries (particularly away from towns), are the want of conveniences, comforts, and society— these have to be made. The advantages are, tiie absence of burdensome imposts and taxes— the great spope for skill and industry in improvements of all kinds — a large field unoccupied lying open for all — a choice of good land and situatiob — a feeling of independence, and an ab- sence of care for the future welfare of their families. He will endeavour to state opinions and impressions, unbiassed by prejudice or partiality, so that Emigration, or No Emi* gra(Um, may be deliberately weighed before decided on. ^ The great mistake of Englishmen in parttcnlar is, that ibej^ng about the sea-ports, in the hopes something lucra- tive may offer, until they spend their little property, or if they settle as fkrmers, they are so fond of their own dpi- nions as to attempt the introduction of English husbandry, and entail a heavy expense upon themselves for their folly. The young and enthusiastic often fortai romantic and ex- travagant notions of distant countries ; this ought to be particularly guarded against, or it will assuredly end in dis- appointment and vexation. There is no perfect Paradise to be seen on earth — there is no country, however fiine attd ' prosperous, without a drawback; nor, on the other band. PRF.FACR. I stated many particulars ither of those places, that are hr adranced nches of their families, imall families, in com- )t losing money, (unless ; diflSculties at defiance) nigrants that were com- lose from England, must iture success, countries (particularly conveniences, comforts, ). The advantages are, 8 and taies— the great ovements of all kinds — for all — a choice of good dependence, and an ab> i of their families. He i impressions, unbiassed ''.miy ration, or No Emi- d before decided on. en in particular is, that hopes something loera" eir little property, or if fond of their own dpi- D of English hnsbandry, tmseWes for their ft>Hy. fortai romantic and ex- ries ; this ought to be rill assuredly end in dis- is no perfect Paradise antry, however fine a*d ' lor, on the other band, «vill there be discovered any country, however forbidding, en- tirely destitute of attraction. Authors of Travels, Sic. are oAen the cause, yet unintentionally, probably, of the forma- tion of such wild fancies. " Countries," as Goldsmith ob- serves, " wear different appearances to travellers of different circumstances. A man who is whirled through Europe, (or any country) in a post-chaise, and the pilgrim that walks the tour on foot, will form very different conclusions." The little incidents and particulars which will be found in this Journal, may appear in themselves but trifling, yet, collec> lively, with the frequent and familiar comparisons made of things in America to similar ones in England, they will give more striking and correct ideas than general observations and diaconnected statements. " Trifles discover characters more than actions of importance. " Perseverance alone can ensure success ; the emigrant to either the United States or Canada must work to prosper, or bring that property with him to purchase land cleared and cr'.tivated, with which he might have enjoyed comfort at home. On having a grant of land that is in a state of nature, much is to be done before he can even find a shel- ter, and he must wait for the seasons for his crops. It is in the New World as in the Old, connections must be formed before prosperity can be ensured ; but the difficulty in doing this is not so great as it is in England, from the rapid increase of population, each seeking mutual assistance and correspondence with thnir establishments, agricultural and commercial ; tberefo'. e, if a person is industrious, and so fortunate as to have a family capable of joining in his labours, and living, in the bonds of affection, there can be no doubt that he will prosper ; that his declining years may be passed in ease ; and his descendants be in possession of ample affluence. mmmmm FMting hU inabilit^r to detail the information acquired by experience in the pleaaing manner he could wiah, ho cravee the indulgence of hie readers; he offere no epeculative theory, clothed in viaione of fancy, to their notice ; hie are the proceedings of a man. who, ueed to move in a respect- able spherw, felt the reverses brought about by political causes, and who, as a true citiaen of the world, sought the reinstatement of his former ciroumstanccs by seeking a place, where his diminished means, his personal labour, and 4he resources of his mind, could be actively employed ; and he truste his information will not be less valued, from being conveyed in a plain unvarnished style. ..axaetas e information acquirwl by he could wiah, he craves he offera no tpeculative r, to th, his personal labour, and IB actively employed ; and be less valued, from being ityle. INTRODUCTION. ON rilE CAUSES or EMIUHATIOK. The first and by far the most prominent one is privation, and its consequent distress. The next, perhaps, is dissatin- faction under real or fancied political grievances. Some few emigrate for a warmer, dryer, or healthier climate, and others for no reason but a love of change. Formerly religious persecution was the chief cause of ei - patriation, but happily that barbarous age is gone by : vot, unfortunately, there is another cause of late years in OjitJia' tion, although not of so violent a character, more dangerous from its insidious and constantly increasing power. That this privation and distress should occur to thousands and tens of thousands, in a country the richest on earth, the most flourishing in arts, manufactures, commerce, and agri- culture, is of so anomalous and glaring a character, that it forces itself on the attention of every one. I have not the ability to exhibit a full elucidation of a cause of such magnitude ; but as it has the effect of driving so many of my countrymen yearly into exile, I may be nl- lowed a few words on the subject of this extraordinary state of things. The chief source of the evils complained of, is the accu- mulating immense wealth into large masses ; virtually mo- nopolizing (since the introduction of steam power and other modern machinery) the means and sources of the middle and lower classes, like large globules of quicksilver swallow- ing up small ones within their sphere of attraction. In the first place, is not this incontrovertibly the case with respect to the soil, the primary and only solid soune s2 \ \l vii! INTRODUCTION.' of wealth of moat countries? For instance, are there one half the number of proprietors and occupiers of land now in England there were 30 or 40 years ago? Is it not a notorious fact that large landed proprietors buy up all the small farms and lots of land they can meet with? I have known parishes that had 40 or more small proprietors and occupiers of land, -where now there is not more than one third of that number; the remainder generally become labourers, nearly their only resource, throwing an extra quantity of the article of labour into a market sufficiently supplied, and, consequently, depreciating its value below a just and equitable price, the landlord and fundholder reap- ing the benefit from the depreciation. But it will be asked, w'.iy will farmers give a greater rent than they can afford ? I answer, because those farmers, that still have a little money left, mvst rent a farm at some price ; they cannot do any thing else ; all other trades and occupations are already overdone. The landlord is enabled to keep up his high rents by throwing three or four farms into one, thereby creating a competition, by reducing the number in the market ; while, as I before said, two or three of these farmers must, probably, go to the parish ; the one that gets the enlarged farm will curtail his expenses to meet the high rent, by reducing the number of labourers kept on the four farms ; thus he impoverishes the farm, and that in return impoverishes him, until perhaps in a short time his resource also is the same degraded station, the parish. 1 by no means intend unqualified censure to any class,— for it is not reasonable to expect land-owners will take low rents while they can get high ones, any more than any other classes will dispose of their property at a less value than it will bring in the market. It is the business of legislators, by wise enactmente, to regulate, either directly or indirectly, those matters, and prevent unjust monopoly. In manufactures, some of the arts, and navigation, this monopolizing system, chiefly through the aid of steam power, is still more apparent. Suppose, for a moment, that, within ten years from the present date, one-third of the human labour now required in Great Britain be t perseded by ma- chinery, in addition to the present amount, there would then be nearly half the population unemployed, or unprofitably employed, the evils of which, if not counteracted, must over- whelm the country in inevitable confusion : in a word, means ■MiiitilOii*"*!^"" ION." or instance, are there one ad occupiers of land now [0 years ago? Is it not proprietors buy up all the y can meet with? I have nore small proprietors and lere is not more than one nainder generally become lource, throwing an extra into a market sufficiently ireciating its value below a llord and fundholder reap- tion. But it will be asked, rent than they can aiford ? rs, that still have a little some price ; they cannot do md occupations are already bled to keep up his high ur farms into one, thereby lucing the number in the lid, two or three of these le parish ; the one that gets 3 expenses to meet the high ' labourers kept on the four ne farm, and that in return in a short time his resource 1, the parish. ified censure to any class, — t land-owners will take low es, any more than any other iperty at a less value than it is the business of legislators, either directly or indirectly, St monopoly. le arts, and navigation, this ough the aid of steam power, J, for a moment, that, withia te, one-third of the human iritain be i perseded by ma- lut amount, there would then unemployed, or unprofitably not counteracted, must over- confusion : in a word, means INTUODUCTION. i.X of living must be found, either without or with labour. Capital, in conjunction with machinery, is rapidly, though silently, creating a greater revolution in the kingdom than was ever done by politics. How can these evils be avoided, it may be asked, or would 1 have machinery destroyed? To destroy machinery, I answer, would be retrograding towards barbarism, and who could say to what extent it should be carried, even if practicable ? In fact its destruction could only be e£fected by the united consent and power of every country ; which I need not add can never be obtained. Nor is its destruction necessary to the happiness and welfare of the world ; but that it may prove a blessing instead of a curse, it must be reduced from a mountain torrent to ferti- lizing streams. How this is to be accomplished is worthy serious attention. I shall not presume to enter deeply into it, but only suggest a few hints. A recurrence might be had to the old system of cottages and small farms. If in each parish every farm that is over 200 acres were divided into two, there would be then, on an average, four or five farms more in each township, requiring as many extra farmers to occupy them. These farms, when divided, would probably employ more labourers in proportion, and the land be kept in better condition than before. In conjunction with this, let a number of neat and convenient cottages be built in each parish, (if there are not enough already) and three or four, to eight or ten, or more acres, of land, be attached to each by the rich land-owner, the parish, or act of parlia- ment, to be let to the most industrious and honest part of the labouring class, allowing at least one-half to bo retained in arable, for potatoes, other vegetables, and g. ain. These, with a little assistance and indulgence at first, would pay as much rent per acre as a farmer. By this means labour would be taken from the present overstocked market, and poor rates proportionably reduced. A stimulus would be given to in- dustry and honesty in the lower classes, from aspiring to those cottage farms, and thence to a higher grade ; from being now degraded nearly as low, and as incapable of emanci- patino; themselves and rising in the scale of society, as the unfortunate African. By the cottage and small farm system, in conjunction with an adequate and permanent abatement of rents, in proportion to the price of grain, all the present population might be beneficially employed. The former would be a Ui^ iss^m'- X INTIIODIXTIOX. kind of reserve of labour, to which recourse could be had by the farmer in busy times, to the mutual benetit of each. To check the monopolixing system in land, and to give effi- cacy to the cottage and small farm system, let a graduated tax be levied on all occupiers who retain in their possession more than 100 acres, to be appropriated to the use of the poor; this would effectually put a stop to the system now in practice, of holding more than can be cultivated to the best advantage to the country, and would, perhaps, keep three or four families, and employ double the number of labourers it now does, if divided and conducted with energy. Numbers of large farms might easily be pointed out at the present moment, capable of keepit.g a great increase of stock, and producing much more grain than they now do. — The want of capital is, perhaps, the chief obstacle that pre- vents large farms being cultivated to the best advantage; nine out of ten of their occupiers have had their capitals reduced by these retrograding times, and, unwilling to lose any of their dignity or appearance in society, continue to occupy them, though at a certain loss. To counteract the growing and pernicious influence of immense monopolizing capitals, and further to relieve the poor and industrious classes, let taxes be taken off every article and commodity of general utility, and the necessaries of life, and put on property and luxury only. Whatever difference in opinion may be held respecting the causes of the frequent embarrassments of the agricultural and manufacturing interests, and the more severe privations of the labouring classes, all must acknowledge its frequent existence, and the paramount necessity of an adequate and speedy remedy. Whether our rulers, or any body of the people, take the case up seriously, before it manifests itself in a more forcibly 'convincing manner, remains to be seen. But if they do not, emigration appears to me the only re- medy in the hands of those who may have' sufficient money to carry them out of the influence of the evil — out of the country. In case such an event be the alternative adopted, the following sheets may be of some service to direct in the choice of a situation. ■-H,^ lOX. Ii recourse could be had by e mutual benetit of each, n in land, and to give cfli- m system, let a graduated ) retain in their possession spriated to the use of the stop to the system now in n be cultivated to the best dd, perhaps, keep three or the number of labourers ed with energy. Numbers 9inted out at the present great increase of stock, than they now do. — The chief obstacle that pre- 3d to the best advantage; -s have had their capitals es, and, unwilling to lose :e in society, continue to 1 loss. To counteract the of immense monopolizing the poor and industrious !ry article and commodity saries of life, and put on nay be held respecting the ments of the agricultural the more severe privations acknowledge its frequent essity of an adequate and ilers, or any body of the , before it manifests itself inner, remains to be seen, ppears to me the only rc- nay have' sufficient money e of the evil — out of the >e the alternative adopted, some service to direct in 1 CHAPTER I. THIi AUTHORS MOTIVES FOR EMIGUATION; PllEPA- BATION FOR THE VOYAGE; EMBARKATION, AND PASSAGE OUT. I SHALL premise the causes of leaving my native country, and reasons for preferring the United States ; in doing which I am only describing the misfortunes and fate of thousands of my countrymen. I took a farm previous to the close of the late war (about 1813), on a seven years' lease, and of course at a high rental. The year following, peace came, and with it ruin to nearly one-fourth of the agriculturists. My landlord compelled me to hold the farm for the term I had taken, with but a small and insufficient abatement of rent. The consequence was, that with strict attention to economy and industry, at the close of my lease I had lost one-half of my little capital, the remains of which not being sufficient to stock the farm, 1 was obliged to give it up, although offered it at one half the former rent. I then took his Majesty's ministers' advice, that " if farming would not answer, farmers must engage in some other business." I engaged in another business, but through the shortness of nvy funds, and a com- bination of untoward circumstances, I lost the remainder of my property. I now determined to leave a country that no longer afforded me a respectable and comfortable subsist- ence, thinking no person with one spark of independent spirit, could hesitate a moment in a choice between honor- able, though even laborious, exertion and dangers, with in- dependence, to a dronish 'tselessness in society, or a mean ignoble dependence on friends. Van Diemen's Island and the United States presented me with a choice of place for my exile. I weighed the in- ducements held out by each, deliberately, and their attrac- tions counterpoised in the balance for some time, until the 1 EMlOKATIOK, on •hortness and cheapness of the passage to the latter pre- ponderated, and decided my choice : I then had not the least intention of going to Canada, a place I had been led to believe was frozen up two-thirds of the year, and scorched up the remainder ; but on arriving in the Unified States, I procured better information, without seeking it. In October, 1824, 1 engaged with an American captain of A brig, lying in the London Docks, bound to Baltimore, for a passage in the steerage, for six guineas, my finances not allowing me to go in the cabin ; and being the only passenger on board (excepting two young American seamen who worked their passage) had the privilege of a small apartment to my- self, digniKed with the name of " state-room." Some days passed in providing provisions, &c. with great trouble in pro- curing the variety of articles wanted, to the best advantage, and on the 18th we sailed with the morning tide and a fair wind, down the river Thames; a frosty morning, but a fine pleasant day ; numbers of vessels going out ; and an- chored off Gravesend for the night. I had paid \l. to a person residing near the entrance of the Docks, for procuring me a "cocket" or clearance, which I am inclined to think was rather an imposition, but he said he would have pro- cured the same for four or five passengers, had there been as many, for the same money ; went on shore to the custom- house at Gravesend, to deliver the above cocket ; was asked my name, and if an Englishman, and for a reference in London. I had nothing to pay, nor was any certificate of my occupation or identity, required, as I had been led to ex- pect; some officers came on board, but did not examine my trunks, merely asking if they contained wearing apparel and jiersonals only. The provisions I took for my passage were laid in for eight weeks' consumption, and I had no restriction in quantity or variety (there are restrictions in some ports respecting quantity, particularly if a considerable number of passengers are going in a ship) ; in the Appendix I have stated particulars at length. We left Gravesend with a fair wind, and pretty g04>4 spirits, my thoughts ranging through the New World I had now fairly embarked for, and then returning again to the land of my nativity, friends, and former home, which, at times, would cause an involuntary sigh ; but the hopes and prospect ever-cheating fancy pre- sented to my mind, dissipated all gloom, and I bade adieu to Old England without much regret. The wind being a-head, i WiifW i giH ii T i B iiii r M fitf iii K, on passage to the latter pre- oice : I then had not the tda, a place I had been led ds of the year, and scorched ing in the Unified States, I lout seeking it. vith an American captain of Ls, bound to Baltimore, for a [ guineas, my finances not nd being the only passenger merican seamen who worked of a small apartment to my- " state-room." Some days c. with great trouble in pro- nted, to the best advantage, the morning tide and a fair ; a frosty morning, but a vessels going out; and an- light. I had paid M. to a ! of the Docks, for procuring hich I am inclined to think le said he would have pro- passengers, had there been rent on shore to the custom- lie above cocket ; was asked an, and for a reference in nor was any certificate of red, as I had been led to ex- rd, but did not examine my [itained wearing apparel and I took for my passage were ion, and I had no restriction 3 restrictions in some ports if a considerable number of I ; in the Appendix I have ^e left Gravesend with a irits, my thoughts ranging ow fairly embarked for, and of my nativity, friends, and would cause an involuntary ct ever-cheating fancy pre- I gloom, and I bade adieu to St. The wind being a-head, T ~f^ - KO EMIGHATION. a we tacked and came to anchor off Margate for the night; in the morning beat up into the Downs, when the pilot left lis ; a New York packet-ship, the Trident, passed in fine Rtile, without tacking once, through her superior powers of sailing, and was in port three weeks bofore us ; this may serve as a hint to emigrants to engage a passage in a good sailing vessel, which may be ascertained generally by in- quiry, or by the sharpness of their bows. I would also re- commend every one, before engaging bis passage in a ship, to inquire her age (from two tu ten years are best), and to nee if her sails, rigging, anchors, and cables are good, nnd also if the captain is steady, respectable, and agreeable ; a middle aged one I would generally prefer. On leaving the Downs, we experienced a rough sea, which produced sickness in the captain as well as myself; the weather was quite warm, the thermometer bei ng at 63 ; the wind increasing, we made considerable head -way, and in two days lost sight of the Lizard Point, and a pigeon passed us fifteen miles from the land ; a packet spoke us from the Straits, bound to Liverpool. There it no regard paid to Sunday, as a sabbath, on board this vessel, indeed, some- times it would be impossible ; on the 26th, a heavy gale came on, and continued throughout the day ; I could hardly get from my berth or help tumbling out ; no life nor power to move — ^just enough to wish myself on some shore ; the wind dropped in the night, but the sea continued to roll its mighty waves — " Oil wonderful thou art, great element, And fearful in thy spleeny humours bent, Vet lovely in repose ! " This was succeeded by a calm (three vessels in sight) ; cat a little gruel and a pancake only ; a good deal of the latter used in the cabin. October f29th, another strong gale during the night, in which we again "lay too:" wind south-west, which drove us in sight of Cape Clear, in Ireland, by the morning, and in the heavy squall which followed, we had near been capsized through the negligence of the mate not taking in the sails soon enoggh; the captain, who was in bed when it came on, was instantly on deck, and gave the mate a deserved reprimand ; one of the sails giving way, and the wind lowering, they were enabled to get all right again ; the weather for several days various, and we felt a warmer EMIGRATION, OR I 1 climate, with longer days, north latitude 44: 29 — longitude, 12 : 30, west — thermometer 63; on the evening of Nov. '2d, a bank of clouds arose north-west, and a breeze sprung up in our favour ; we had now been thirteen days at sea, and its effects were such, that provisions were in some mea- sure useless, tea, gruel, pudding, or a roasted potatoe being all I could take, with soda-water, or a little warm porter for drink ; but at this time the weather became pleasant and warm, with light wind, thermometer 65, and the sea being nearly smooth, partially restored my health, and I made ample amends in eating after my long abstinence ; we now got so far from land that the gulls and other sea birds left us, and experienced a variety of winds, but generally warm weather, and the voyager would have some pleasure in agreeable and decorous company ; whales sported about, and other large fish were occasionally near the vessel. The saline air caused my apparel to become damp and mouldy, and knives, &c. to rust ; attention to these matters, assisted in passing time away, but occasional squalls would interrupt my business ; in the twilight I often amused myself, when there was a gentle breeze fanning the surface of the water, by viewing the ripples it made with their white caps, it looked so much like an extensive fallow-field, with a slight scattering of snow ou its unevennesses ; and fancy, ever busy, conjured up in the distance some well- known familiar spot for the imagination to feast on, till the darkening shades of night, or the approach and noise of sailors, aroused me from my reverie : — ten days thus passed, when we had a heavy breeze all day, and took in the main top-gallant sails. Have seen of late a large brown bird of the gull species, which the sailors call a shear-water, and some small birds like martins they denominate Mother Cary's chickens. The ship's store of potatoes became half rotten through having been dug before they were ripe, and put on board in a wet state. Mine remained quite sound, but began to shoot, through the mild season. Rather disagreeable weather followed this gale, and several seas broke over the vessel : then a dead calm ensued, and the ship rolled much ; but a smart breeae soon sprung up, north by east, which carried us eight knots per hour, and was the first wind the sailors called fair, that is, lying aft, or at the hind part of the vessel. The sea water is quite warm, and sparkles alongside the ship at night like ■im — ujiiyy^ \TIOy, OR >rth latitude 44: 29 — longitude, 63 ; on the evening of Nov. orth-west, and a breeze sprung now been thirteen days at sea, it provisions were in some mea- ling, or a roasted potatoe being uter, or a little warm porter for I weather became pleasant and mometer 65, and the sea being itored my health, and I made r my long abstinence ; we now le gulls and other sea birds left Y of winds, but generally warm vould have some pleasure in any ; whales sported about, and lally near the vessel. The saline ecome damp and mouldy, and on to these matters, assisted in asional squalls would interrupt : I often amused myself, when ! fanning the surface of the pies it made with their white ike an extensive fallow-field, mow ou its unevennesses ; and up in the distance some well- imagination to feast on, till the or the approach and noise of everie: — ten days thus passed, I all day, and took in the main n of late a large brown bird of sailors call a shear-water, and tins they denominate Mother i store of potatoes became half n dug before they were ripe, ; state. Mine remained quite t, through the mild season. followed this gale, and several then a dead calm ensued, and smart breexe soon sprung up, ed us eight knots per hour, le sailors called fair, that is, t of the vessel. The sea water alongside the ship at night like MO EMIORATION. O fire; this appearance is caused, apparently, by the ship's side dashing the salt water into air-bubbles: some assert that this fiery appearance arises from a kind of animalculae, but this opinion is evidently erroneous, for these animalculae are never numerous enough in the water in any one place, and but occasionally to be met with at all, when these sparkles arc everywhere to be seen in the night in salt vt'ater. The air from the waves which break at the ship's side, on leaning over, rises in the face like the stearn from heated water. The vessel now made a good deal of water when thfe sea was rough. The captain swears and storms like a madman; at one time cursing the men (by-the-bye, some of them were a stupid set of fellows), then the ship, and the weather, and almost in the same breath saying, they could not have had a better day for the work they had to do, and that we had been highly favoured throughout: so inconsistent is human nature ! We were often compelled to " lay to," in which there u little danger in any moderate gale, provided you have plenty of sea-room to drift, and the vessel has far less m^btion than if sailing in the same wind, or in a calm, (u one of the late gales the tiller rope broke, when it threw down, and v6ry much cut and bruisc:d, tfie man steering. My butter was all spoiled through the warm weather, not having been potted close, end sufficient salt put in it. Squalls, calms, head winds, &c. continue, and the captain says he never experienced so much bad weather and oppos- ing winds before. A disagreeable life on board in such seasons : perhaps you are pitched head-foremost against one side of the vessel by a " sea-lurch," or a roll, and before you have time to recover your legs, tumbled to tiie other side ; or at dinner, the dishes and plates with their contents are suddenly dashed to the floor, when the potatoes, &c, are rolling about from one side of the vessel to the other, as if playfully amusing themselves ; and, while at- tempting their recovery, you roll after ihain, or tumble headforemost, to the no small amusement of the rest of the company. We continued to experience westerly winds, which retarded our progress greatly, a proof of which was, that we spoke a brig from New Yortc, bound to Buenoe Ay res, out only eight days, and it took us three weeks to get into port ; indeed, c •,* 8 EMIORATlflN, on their prevalonco is a strong reason why the voyage out fihouUl not be undertaken at this season, and that this period, or a little earlier, is often chosen to return to Eng- land. Appearances indicated an approach to the New World, and like similar circumstances to Columbus filled us with hope. Great quantities of sea or gulph-weed floated past us, and on the 4lh December we were in latitude 34 : 35, and southed a degree. Beautiful April-like weather, thermometer 71 in the shade, and 73 in the water; some- times some light showers, with occasionally lightning in the evenings. The air exhibited a curious appearance, being of a yellowish red colour, and the clouds of a cinerous blue, which were in a thousand fantastic and singular forms, the sailors called them snow-clouds. Saw a number of flying fish pursued by a dolphin, and also numerous beautiful coloured niuitilus or " men of war," with their sails ex- panded to the breeze, blown swiftly over the undulating waves. My bottled porter was excellent, and of great ser- vice now I have recovered from the sea^sickness ; saw no more gulph-wecd. We had now crossed the back stream, and were between tlio two ; it runs down the eastern const of Amtrica, across the banks of Newfoundland, round the Western Isles, and along the coast of Africa. Dec. 6. — Squally again of late. Getting near (he gulph- Btrcam, which makes it warm, and great quantities of the gulph, or sea-weed is seen again ; it nearly covers the sur- i'ace of the water in some places, and in others it is extended for miles in parallel lines, north-east and south-west ; I should suppose drifted from the side of the stream, which runs in that direction in this part. Dec. 10. — Getting 'oo far south, through the prevalence of north -weat winds; latitude 33: 30, thermometer 65 in the air, and 72 in the water. A shark ten or twelve feet in length came alongside the vessel, and a number of gram- puses were seen at a distance. Fine weather, and would be delightful if on shore, and not altogether otherwise here. Dec. 12. — Light wind, and smooth sea ; clear, bright, warm day. Two dolphins came swimming about the vessel, one of H-liich the captain struck with a fish-spear, and suc- ceeded in getting it on board ; they all said it was the lai^Gst they had ever seen, six feet seven and a half inches in length, and I should suppose weighed three quarters of % cwt. or morek . . > iOn, on NO EMIORATIOX. reason why the voyage out I this season, and that this ten chosen to return to Eng- I an approach to the New istances to Columbus filled us of sea or gulph-weed floated cember we were in latitude Beautiful April-like weather, and 73 in the water ; some- I occasionally lightning in the I curious appearance, being of he clouds of a cinerous blue, astic and singular forms, the ids. Saw a number of flying md also numerous beautiful f war," with their sails ex- swiftly over the undulating s excellent, and of great ser- ica the sea^sickness ; saw no low crossed the back stream, ; runs down the eastern const of Newfoundland, round the :oast of Africa. ate. Getting near the gulph- , and great quantities of the ain ; it nearly covers the sur- 'B, and in others it is extended ortli-east and south-west ; I lie side of the stream, which >art. south, through the prevalence 33 : 30, thermometer 65 in A shark ten or twelve feet in !8sel, and a number of gram- Fine weather, and would be altogether otherwise here, d smooth sea ; clear, bright, ne swimming about the vessel, :k with a fish-spear, and suc- d ; they all said it was the K feet seven and a half inches ie weighed tbree quarters of a Dec. 13. — Hardly any wind of late, but a breeze sprung, up this morning, and soon rose into a gale, and at noca blew violently from the southward. The foam tluw like tine drifted snow : the wind suddenly full, nnd then chopped round to the north-west, and blew more nioderntc, when th« grandest sight I had ever seen nt-csentcd itself: the tre- mendous billows meeting in all directions formed a thousand fantastical shapes, sometimes running up into high peaks or spires, then suddeuly sinking into vast abysses ; or two large waves meeting, rose into an immense ridge; or meeting with violence, dashed their spray in all directions, as if in a rude, frolicsome play, while the vessel rose up their mountain sides most majestically, receiving now and then n salute from their gambols. Rain came on, and clouds weru seen flying in various directions ; the air remarkably warm. Thermometer in the morning 70, and in the water at noon 74; and before night 79; remaining at 70 in the air. — So we are in the Great Gulph stream at last! Dec. 15 Through the Gulph as it is called, and the air gets colder every hour. Shortened sail lust night, and sounded without finding bottom. Found, by an observation taken at noon, we were in latitude 35: 19. Just north of Cape Hattrass, a dangerous reef of sunken rocks, running forty miles into the sea, on the coast of Carolina. Sounded again in the evening, and found nineteen fathoms water. Tho thermometer had sunk in the air to 45, and in the water to 68. Water on soundings looks green, in the ocean a dark blue ; this is universal, I am told. Dec. 16. — Made land this morning opposite Roanoke Inlet, North Carolina,^ near the borders of Virginia, seventy miles too far south of the Chesapeak Bay ; ranged within five-miles of the shore all day, with a light breeze, and fine dear cold air. Cannot see anything of the country, but clay and sand banks, covered with pines and other trees ; it is apparently a flat land along the sea-board ; vessels sailing in different directions, and numbers of wild ducks seen along the shore. Dec. 17. — As no pilot came on board last evening, a bn- tern was hung up in the night at the mast head, for a sig- nal, and at two o'clock this morning one hove his boat akngside and was taken on board, who proceeded imme- .^lately with the vessel round Cape Henry, into the Chesa- peak Bay ; the wind having got south-east at the same time, o EMIOnATION, 0| with a stiff breeze, wafted us along faster than we had soiled all the time we had been out. Rain and hazy weather came on this evening, which compelled us reluctantly to come to an anchor for fear of the shoals. The Chesapeak is a very fino Bay, from ten or twelve to twenty miles across, and upwards of two hundred long ; its low banks, fringed with trees, are all that is to be seen of the country, excepting here and there a house near the shore, and occa- sionally a small town or village. A great number of small craft, loaded with cord, wood for fuel, country produce, &c. for Baltimore market. Ten thousands of wild ducks, geese, swans, &c., almost covering the Bay, swimming and flying; an English sportsman would be in his Elysium here I Dec. 18.— After a wet, blowing night, it cleared up soon after day-light this morning, when we weighed anchor, and proceeded up the Patapsco River. As beautiful a day as ever shone, with a serene mild air, and pleasant light breeze. Vessels of all sizes sailing in various directions, with well- dressed people on board; and Baltimore, with its white buildings rising to our view on the sides of the hiMs, as w« approached it, had a most exhilarating effect on one whoM vision had been confined to the monotonous rolling of tho unstable waters for sixty five days, which is deemed a very long voyage. CHAPTER II. ARRIVAL AT BALTIMORE — DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWW, ITS INHABITANTS, AND CUSTOMS— EXCURSIOHa IN THE NEIOHBOURHObD, AND CONTINUED RESI- DENCE' -WITH A VARIETY OF MISCELLANEOUS VEMARKS. Mt diary having been kept as a daily journal, I shall no# offer it to the reader in that form, as exhibiting, better thao any other mode, a narrative of my proceedings ; and prd- senting to bim the best means of understanding the occ«io p»tioiw of my time, and tb» space I traversed. TION, OB ilong faster than we had sailed ut. Rain and hazy weather h compelled us reluctantly to r the shoals. The Chesapeak en or twelve to twenty miles hundred long ; its low banks, it is to be seen of the country, >use near the shore, and occa- i;e. A great number of small for fuel, country produce, &c. thousands of wild ducks, geese, he Bay, swimming and flying; be in his Elysium here I wing night, it cleared up soon when we weighed anchor, and River. As beautiful a day as 1 air, and pleasant light breeze, various directions, with well- id Baltimore, with its white )n the sides of the hiMs, as we hilarating effect on one whose the monotonous rolling of the days, which is deemed a very PER II. DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWX, ND CUSTOMS — KXCURSIONS •OD, AND CONTINUED IlESI- ilETY or MISCELLANEOUS B a daily journal, I shall no# >rm, as exhibiting, better than of my proceedings ; and prei> I of understanding the occH- pace I traversed. 50 EMKillATIOV; 9 On the 18th Dec , at two o'clock, tho pilot hiul the vessel alongside the wharf, when, in an instant ita deck was covered with people of nil sorts, lookinji; about and asking questions After packing my luggage, I went into the Invii fo procure something to eat, lodgings, \c., when I felt myself n stranger, on a foreign, although a kindred strand. After dining heartily on some oxcollent sausages, with somo pleasant mild ale, I took a ramble through the city ; but I hardly know how to walk, tho pavement seemed to have tho motion of tho vessel. Baltimore is a largo town, with somo handsome publio and private buildings ; the streets aro spacious, airy, and clean; 'tho centres pitched with rock stone, and the sido walks paved with red brick, of which also houses are mostly built. Pratt Street, along the water sido, was all in a bustle, nfid apparently full of business, but the method of floing it evidently difleis considerably from the manner in England. Dec. 19. Sunday. — At one church, and two meeting- houses (no chapels here) ; some of them elegant buildings, with very respectable-looking congregations. Dined with tiic captain, whoso treatment was hospitable. The manners of the Americans appear widely different to the English, particularly of the females, who aro more easy and un- embarrassed, yet reserved, in their address, than the retiring diilidenco of tlio latter. Took lodgings at a respectable ship carpenter's, at three dollars, or \3s. Lid. sterling, per week, board, washing, and mending irieluding. Dec. 20 A clear, bright, frosty air this morning. Ther- mometer in my sleeping room 43, Went to the custom- house, with the captain, to clear my laggngo. Paid half a dollar to a notary (a very polite, agreeable person) for draw- ing up an inventory and certificate of my luggage, and 20 cents (onc-Gfth of n dollar, or about i\d. sterling) on pre- senting it, when the only question asked was. Will you swear this is a correct statement, and that the articles aro for your own private use ? I merely answered in the affirmative. Had a ramble through tho town and its en- virons. Like tho appearance of the Americans generally^ and think the place prosperous, as tho people appear to be all employed and busy, and have the air oi' ease and content in their countenances, with but littlo superciliousness. Tho markets are well supplied with meat as ta quantity, but tha C 2, -~ I ■HM f 10 tMtORATION, OX qutlity not quite to good ns in England, excepting the pork, which is fine; eome little good bet-f, but vi.al and mutton rery indifferent, nor is trouble taken to act it off to the best advantage. The vegetables brought to market now are chiefly potatoes, beets, and cabbages, great quan* titles of the latter, and mostly drumheads ; some few carrots, turnips, onions, sweet potatoes, &c. at moderate prices. A great many negroes about the markets and wharfr, w>, but are treated by Jie latter as inferior beings ; will i ' >at at the same table, or walk in their company, and iivo separate places of worship. There are fire market houses in B'ltimo' ome of them large, and all conveniently built, vety ..i r to the old Fleet Market in London. The centres, wh.ch are spa- cious, are occupied on each side by me butchers ; on the outside of the butchers' stalls is ali»o a pat«age on each side, with stalls on either band, where \ egetables, country pro- duce, flour, meal, &c., ready-made clothes, shoes, tin- ware, <&c. are exposed. The fish markeU are at the ends of the others, and generally well supplied. To d.iy are their Christmas markets, at which there is great plenty of every thing — some good beef, pork excellent, mutton thin and small, veal (calf) hardly fit to eat, killed too young. Beef, '2d. to 3|d. per pound; the best cuts, ij^d. (I have stated liie prices in rterling money, being far more conveniently understood by the British reader) ; pork generally sold by thft carcass, brought in by the farmers from the country, from 2d. to 3\d. per pound, and sometimes even lower ; veal and mutton by the quarter, at \$. 2d. to 2s. 3d. each; turkeys, Is. 2d. to 2s. 3e;. each ; fowls, 6{d. to 9d. ditto ; cabbages, (drumheads) I d. to 2(/. each ; potatoes and turnips, lOd. to \B.2d. per bushel, &c. I was asked in the market 51. fors cow and calf, worth in England 8/. or 10/., only five or six cows in the market ; no fairs fur cattle here, and but few sold in the markets ; there are some farmers that deal in them, and supply those who want, and I am told do pretty well by it ; wholesale butchers buy up the droves of cattle that are driven from Ol :^ and tlie west, slaughter and sell them to the retail outs3. 1 )ti legulations renpuuting t! . markets in this warm climati '4 n 'icious;* ughtering allowed in the town- ' ' . uie ^ shops opened anywhere; the cattle are killed oui ui town, and the meat taken to tlM mjmmmm ION, OX England, excepting the pork, I b«vf, but vviil and mutton lie taken to set it off to jetables brought to market , and cabbage*, great qunn* rumheads ; tome few carrota, 8, &c. at moderate prices. ie markets and wharff , w'o independent aa the wli'eL inferior beings ; will i ' >at ft their company, and iivo ses in B 'Itimo' ome of ily built, very ..u r to the The centres, wh.ch are spa- de by liie butcherb ; on the ali^o a package on each side, ire vegetables, country pro- lade clothes, shoes, tin- ware, trkets are at the shops opened any where ; and the meat taken to the MO t^MIGRATIOM. II market houses early in the niumfng, where the inhat''tants flnck at break of day with their boiikctM, ns everyone caifixs home their purchases. The marketn close in summer ni eleven o'clock, in winter at one. Great numbers of country waggons at the market every day through the fall, ; tumn] winter, and spring, with country produce. Large 41. .titles ' f water winter; wild ducks, a great variety, from 3{d. io '"/. . ; the canvas-back is large, and considered a delit ':tcy, :. Id. to Is. 6d. each ; partridges, 4d, to 7d. each ; quiils, I /. to 2id. ditto; hares and rabbits, small, from 6d. to Is. each. The land round the city is hilly, commanding fine views down the bay, and over the country. The soil in the vicinity is a mixture of dirty yellow clay, with sand and gravel, but the bottoms or small valleys which lie to the east and north-west are gcod, and here are the gardens that supply the markets. On the little hills and risings are situated some country seats, that the wealthy inhabitants retire to in summer; their whiteness, enlivened with the brightness of the sun, on opening to the view in different directions, from behind the slips of woods, reminds mo of some spots in the neighbourhood of London, but on ap- proaching them, many are in a dilapidated state, and the gardens and fences in a slovenly, neglected condition. Dec. 2.5. — Christmas Diiy: instead of ringing bolls, &c, as in England (there are but few bells here to ring) it was ushered in by firing guns, squibs, and crackers all last night, and continues with intervals through the day. The moment I arose this morning, I was presented with a glass of " egg- mogg," as they termed it, a compound of rum, oggs, milk, and sugar, also with ginger-cake, and a cako with raisins in it, which is their " Christmas cake ;" all for merry- making and " parties." I was pressed to one in the evening with the captain and his wife, a number of fiiie females and their beaus present ; the time was spent with a variety of plays, singing songs, playing on the piano, eating cake, drinking toddy, peach brandy, &c., quite a sociable party, the female part easy and apparently unaffected ; broke up early by the request of our host, the next day being Sun- day. Americans use very little or no ceremony, except the introduction by shaking hands, &c. ; each leaves table at meal-time aa soon as done enting, and they are generally H. W^P" 12 EMIORATIOJf, OB quick : no bidding good night, or otlier ceremonj', on going to bed. Dec. 26, Sunday. — The day as fine as the preceding, thermometer 47, with a clear bright air; the sun rises twenty-five minutes after seven o't-locii on the shortest day, and sets thirty-five minutes past four. At the Roman Catholic cathedral this morning ; it is just finis'^ccl, and is a large elegant place, far superior to the one in Moorfields, London ; there is another church here also of that persuasion, and a grand Unitarian one, but the latter has but a small con- gregation ; there are besides, Episcopalians [church of Eng- land], Presbyterians, Congregationalists, Baptists, Quakers, and Methodists ; the latter appear to bo the most numerous, they having four or five large meetings, and all well at- tended. At one of them this evening the male part of the audience on one side of the meeting, and the female on the other; the preacher respectable, but rather too noisy, yet he had to beg the attention of the congregation more than once ; no pews, but long enclosed seats from one end to the other of the gallery, and below, from the aisles to the sides, and across between them ; every one appeared to sit where he thought proper ; the floors most disgustingly dirty from the efifects of tobacco; more than half the males of the age of fourteen chew tobacco : and boys of ten or twelve years may often be seen smoking a cigar. Dec, 27. — A thick fog this morning, wind east, and no fiost; sun broke through the mist at noon, when it was quite warm. I took my gun into tlio woods, but found no game; on my return, by the race-ground, a number of people had a bull tied to a stake for the purpose of baiting; I stopped to see a " spt-to," as I had never seen one before ; the bull was a fine, well-bred, gentle creature; seven or eight dogs were turned loose at him at once ! They soon tore his ears off, and shockingly lacerated his head, which made the poor thing bellow hideously, and run about in every direc- tion to the length of his chain, maddened with pain ; in ten minutes he had killed one dog, and lamed others, when I turned away with disgust at the cruel sport ; I was after- wards informed, tho animal's head was literally torn to pieces ! One might be led to suppose, by this spectacle, the Baltimoreans are a depraved set of beings, but I must say to their credit, I saw not more than ten or twelve of xcspectable looking people there, tho others, about one hup- , ..^^^£;^i,-tWMe« ^1.^ . ~.»^ - X, OR r other ceremon)', on going as fine as the preceding, bright air ; the sun rises o'flocii on the shortest day, ast four. At the Roman ; ; it is just finis'^cd, and is or to the ono in Moorfields, 1 here also of that persuasion, le latter has but a small con* •iscopalians [church of Eng- ionalists, Baptists, Quakers, ar to bo the most numerous, meetings, and all well at- vening the male part of the sting, and the female on the but rather too noisy, yet he he congregation more than ed scats from one end to the from the aisles to the sides, y one appeared to sit where most disgustingly dirty from an half the males of the age boys of ten or twelve years gar. morning, wind east, and no mist at noon, when it was nto tlio woods, but found no race-ground, n number of e for the purpose of baiting; I had never seen cue before ; intle creature; seven or eight It once ! They soon tore his ed his head, which made the id run about in every direc- maddened with pain ; in tea :, and lamed others, when I lie cruel sport ; I was after- head was literally torn to 3 suppose, by this spectacle, ed set of beings, but I must more than tou or twelve of e, tbo others, about one hufi- NO EMIGRATIOH. 13 dred, consisted of the refuse of the place, and a number of them job butchers. Bull-baiting is not allowed in the libera ties of the city, and means are about to be taken to put a stop to it altogether. I hare been looking out for some little business, or a situ* ation as superintendent, or overseer of a farm, but have not yet succeeded ; I find I am not prepared for the latter, be- cause / do not understand the management of Blacks, I have been introduced to some Englishmen, bat they, gene* rally, have treated me with far more reserve and coolness than the Americans. One from the Isle of Wight, a Mr. S.., says he was an extensive farmer and butcher there : he has been here about two years, and is doing pretty well as a batcher, having nothing much wheo he came, and has some ungracious feelings towards his native country. Another from Hampshire lias been here fifty-six years, and is sevent]^- eight years of age. He shouldered his musket in the late war, he tells me, to defend his home. Sunday, Jan. 2, 1825. — Some snaw in the night, with rail, and afterwards frost, which makes the streets all ice ; some few sleighs about to day, with bells, which I am told they are compelled to have by law, that they may not run foul of each other in the night. Heard a rather cele- brated orator (a Methodist preacher from the back woods.) hold forth in a meeting belonging to another denomination, in aid of a subscription for building an asylum for orphaa females; a fluent speaker, but manner too theatrical, and language bombastic. Jan. 10.— Frosty of late, when there were plenty of people to be seen skaiting. Been to ask the price of land to rent ; one lot of fifty acres, only half cleared, four miles from town, 18s. per acre per annum: another of rich bot- tom land, or meadow, several miles off, near the river, I was asked 12 dollars, or 2/. 1 4s. per acre, rent. Great num- bers of waggons from distant parts of the country every day, with barrels of flour for the merchants, and fat hogs, dead, for the market ; some come four hundred miles, the driver* Bleeping in the waggons at night, and carry with them 4he horses' feed; the waggons are excellent, strong, and lights narrow wheels, narrow in the body, with tilts, seven or eight bows bent over, and removeabic at pleasure, these covered by a light-coloured fine canvas, drawn tog iher at each end like a pursp : the. horses go doable, with a pole, like a IJ u ZMIORATION, on coach, generally four or six in each, sometimes five, tlie driver riding the near hind horse, with reins in one hand and whip in the other, and mostly go a trot. Smaller and very light waggons, drawn by one horse, called carry-alls, or carioles, are used to bring in milk, butter, eggs, fowls, &c. Vendues [auctions] of books, and almost every descrip- tion of merchandize, are held every few days, and others at night. Sometimes things are sold very low, — I saw some British goods nearly as cheap as in London ; American books much lower, but they are not quite so well printed, and paper generally inferior. Sunday, Jan. 16. — Dull foggy day; frost out of the ground again. Witnessed a military funeral procession, (General Harper, who died suddenly on Fridny last) ; an early burial, we should think, yet here, I am told, it is the custom to inter a corpse the nex^, and often the same day of its decease. A grand parade of near 2000 soldiers, vo- lunteers, there are no regulars in the city ; there were three bands of music with muffled drums ; each company having a peculiar dress made their appearance quite novel ; two com- panies with different coloured plaid dresses; they all had frock jackets, I believe. The procession began with some officers, then some companies, and music playing various solemn airs ; three or four more companies and music ; . then two brass field pieces, and company of artillery-men ; more music, and companies ; then the hearse, (a small one, open on the side, as they all appear to be here) ; the Ge- neral s horse, with sword, boots, &c. ; mourning coaches ; rifllemen in companies, and closed with a great number of hackney conches, and thousands of pedestrians. Some of the above companies are composed of respectable tradesmen, who have expensive dresses, with ostrich feathers on their caps, which gives them much the appearance of the ancient Spanish dress. General Harper was a Federalist, and like the whole of that party was looked upon with a kind of suspicion, as they are thought to have too great an attach- ment to the English constitution. Jan. 23, Sunday. — At a Methodist meeting to-day ; a woman cried out " mercy," and some others shouted " glory," and clapped hands, mostly women, and generally by the same persons; a common thing here I am told, which appears evident, as it excited little or no surprise, i^Yta amongst the most thoughtless; the preacher encou- i^MgM— Bill tfi i«ittiaiWiiiM"i smjinr i ION, OR ich, sometimes five, the driver vith reins in one hand and go a trot. Smaller and very horse, called carry-alls, or lilk, butter, eggs, fowls, &c. , and almost every descrip- 3very few days, and others at sold very low, — I saw some s in London; American books lite so well printed, and paper bggy day ; frost out of the military funeral procession, luddenly on Friday last) ; an yet here, I am told, it is the \ext, and often the same day kde of near 2000 soldiers, vo- I in the city ; there were three rums ; each company having a earance quite novel ; two cora- 1 plaid dresses; they all had 3 procession began with some 8, and music playing various more companies and music ; id company of artillery-men ; then the hearse, (a small one, appear to be here) ; the Ge- ots, &c. ; mourning coaches ; closed with a great number of inds of pedestrians. Some of )oaed of respectable tradesmen, with ostrich feathers on their the appearance of the ancient rper was a Federalist, and like I looked upon with a kind of bt to have too great an attach- :ion. Methodist meeting to-day ; a " and some others shouted mostly women, and generally >mmon thing here I am told, t excited little or no surprise, ughtless; the preacher encou- 1^0 EMIGRATION. u raged it, by preaching, or rather exclaiming louder as the women cried the more, till at last it amounted to almost raving ; and, because he could not make any apparent im- pression on the rest of the congregation, he accused them of hardness of heart, &c. I fear there is more weakness and enthusiasm than true devotion in such scenes as these ; still custom makes it sufferable, and the Methodists have been rapidly increasing the last few years, and have evi- dently done much good ; in most of the meetings here, of every denomination, they have another disgusting practice in the middle of the service, by holding a green bag at the end of a pole, in >our face, along every seat, for money to purchase wood for the stoves, candles, &c. Here I will say a word or two on the excessive fondness of Ame- ricans for stoves: every church and meeting has from two to four in each : hardly a poor family in Baltimore but has one or more, at which the cooking is all done in winter, which makes their rooms like ovens, and many people look as if half starved. Lotteries are continually drawing here, and I believe have a bad tendency on the morals of the middle and lower classes. Almost every tavern keeps a bowling-alley, where the idle resort to play at ten pins (nine pins having been prohibited by law ! ) and various other games. Luxury and licentiousness appear to be usual in the lower part of the community, through the latitude and ability given by the republican institutions — as monarchial governments tend to the same effect in the upper classes of their subjects. Jan. 27. — There has been little frost through the win- ter, and finer weather I never saw; the people say they never knew so mild a season, the winters being sometimes rather severe. Walked into the country, by a small stream full of falls, en which twelve or fourteen mills are erected within three or four miles, a most beautiful romantic place ; the water coming from high ground, has washed a channel of one hundred feet deep, aud laid bare, in places, rocks and loose stones of an enormous size, some of thirty or forty tons ; trees grow out of the steep banks, fifty feet ovei- head, and many from the top of the banks, entwined with the slender vino; saw a fine field of cock's-foot (here termed orchard-grass) pasture, which they were manur- ing, rather an uncommon practice it would seem ; the farmers are either too idle to draw out manure, or do not vt M SMICRATIOM, OR know its value, nr eke it will not pay for the trouble, as such large quantities are seen lying about the town, treading to waste, it is said the machinery of several mills about Baltimore, is some of the finest in the world ; a large steam mill, at one of the wharfs, takes the wheat out of the holds of vessels by a screw, grinds it, dresses it, and barrels it, with hardly the least intervention of human labour. In- quired the price of some rich land that was advertised to let, belonging to a prudent Scotchman, and was ask«id 3/. 3«. per acre, a-year; he said it would produce from 1000 to 1400 bushels of potatoes per acre; it was rather singular, I replied, inasmuch as at a late agricultural meeting, a crop of only 250 bushels obtained a premium. In Market Street there are the remains of two triumphal arches erected in honour of General Lafayette, on his visit to this city. The people where I lodge, had what they call a " quilting frolic," where a number of neighbours came to quilt, by invitation. A South American brig just refitted here, commanded by a Baltimore captain, who is considered but little better than a pirate. A frigate is just lying un the stocks, to be built for the sam* power, which causes a considerable demand for ship carpenters, and rise in wages — now giving from 7s. to 9s. per day, without board, the trade having been very flat before; Baltimore ships are allowed to be the fastest sailers in the United States, and perhaps in the world ; they are built very sharp, as it is termed, and aro called clippers, Feb. 1 4. Valentine's day,— in which Cupid holds court Jiere as well as in England. There was some sharp weather tit the beginning of the n'onth, but the harbour has not been frozen over through the winter so as to stop trade, which is rather singular, I am tokl. I'he air continues cool, but the sun at times is very warm ; the thermometer 50, in the house ; dirty unsettled weather of late; ducking parties often made, when four or five, or more persons, with three or four days' provision, get a small vessel and some skiffs, and go down the bay to the islands, where they place them* selves, and perhaps bag a hundred or two hundred in a day. March!. — General M'Donald, an old revolutionary officer, having advertised for a superintendaut over his farm's, I made application, with an anxious and palpitating heart, for the humble situation ; and yet (as I feared) 1 was rejected ; I did not suit, not having a wife to look after the dairy, nor having been acquainted with the American methods of farm* )N, OR not pay for the trouble, as ing about the town, treading nery of several mills about in the world ; a large tteam the wheat out of the holds , dresses it, and barrels it, on of human labour. In- id that was advertised to let, man, and was asktd 3/. 3«. ould produce from 1000 to ere ; it was rather singular, agricultural meeting, a crop )remium. In Market Street triumphal arches erected in a his visit to this city. The they call a " quilting frolic," came to quilt, by invitation, fitted here, commanded by a iered but little better than a ; un the stocks, to be built !8 a considerable demand for ^es — now giving from 7$. to I trade having been very flat twed to be the fastest sailers laps in the world ; they are 1, and aro called clippers, which Cupid holds court here was some sharp weather tit tut the harbour has not been ' so as to stop trade, which I'he air continues cool, but m ; the thermometer 50, in ther of late; ducking parties or more persons, with three small vessel and some skiffs, inds, where they place them* red or two hundred in a day. d, an old revolutionary officer, ■intendaut over his farm's, I ous and palpitating heart, for (as I feared) 1 was rejected ; fe to look after the dairy, nor e American methods of farm* KO EMICnATIOV. 17 Ing, nor the management of blacks (slaves). I begin to feel in rather an unpleasant situation; disappointed in all my endeavours, and my finances getting low ; but I am schooled to dis..ppointments and misfortunes, they seem my unalio'iabie property. I now turned my attention towards home, from whence I expected a letter, and some little money. No one that has not been placed in similar circumstances can tell my feelings at this time : no friend near to console or assist me, and I had neglected to bring letters ofrecommendation, which, when I left Kngland, I sup- posed would ha useless ; the lowest station seemed to await me, but I summoned courage to wait with patience, and rely on Providence. General M'Donald is upwards of eighty years of age, yet is very active, and hiis been robust ; he is an in- stance, by no means uncommon here, of the longevity of Europeans. It would seem, the climate is congenial to the robust and over-luxuriant constitutions bred in Britain. The dryness of the air, perhaps, dosicates the super- abundant moisture generated by the dampness of an English climate. A young man, a ship carpenter from the Cinada frontiers, has come to board where I am, he was compelled to leave that neighbourhood, having been detected in smug- gling merchaudiae into that province in a fictitious or forged name : he gives a flattering account of the above country, near Detroit, and says the climate is .'ine and healthy. Sunday, March 13.— Heard a woman preach, and the meeting was crowded to excess. Siie had a strong, and not unpleasant voice, except when strained abo\-e iu natural key ; she prayed fervently and rather eloquently, but her , discourse not sufficiently explanatory. This was the first woman I have hoard preach ; and it* appears to me, that a woman assuming the sacred and dignified office of a preacher, must sacrifice some of that modesty aud delicacy of feeling, indispensable to the character of an amiable and virtuous female. March 17. St. Patrick's Day.- The sons of H.bernia, after going in procession, and attending the Roman Catholic church, exhibit a little of the overflowings of their natural ivarm-heartedness, excited by a drop of the " cratur." Weather getting as hot as May in England, with occasional thunder showers, and the thermometer 65 this morning «t tonrlse. I have heard no birds singing in the fields, \t m EMIOnATIOM, OR except a smaU blue bird, warbling like the lowest notes of the blackbird, and the chirping of robins— a bird of the size of field-fares, and like them in colour, vith a reddish breast. Not one fourth so many email birds here as in England- Trogs are croaking, and a small sort whistling. Passed over Delvidere Bridge on the stream before-mentioned ; it is a large and ingenious piece of wooden workmanship, of one arch, one hundred and ninety feet span; with two cart ways, twelve feet epch, and two foot ways six feet each, and is coverfd over with a shingled roof, to keep it dry ; horses are not allowed to be trotted over it, under a penalty; a considerable cotton factory near it (with one hundred and forty windows) worked by water. Passed through several •' burying-grounds" at the back of the town, on the common, slightly railed in ; on the tombs and head-stones in the Roman Catholic one, I found Irish names generally. Bal- timore consists, 1 believe, of more than half Irish and their descendants. Tlie bye-roads, and some of the turnpike ones, are now in a bad state through the thaws and heavy rains; but it soon dries up by the heat of the sun. It is said, there is more rain falls here than in England, which I think is probable, arising from its vicinity to the gnlph-stream, as, whenever the wind is from that quarter, rain or heavy foga generally follow. Turnips sprouting, and grass beginnitjg to grow ; saw some snow-drops, crocuse*, &e. blowing, in the "Columbian Garden," a poor place, belonging to a tavern, and made public in summer, to drink in, &c. But few private gardens in and about the town, although so much ground lying waste in every back street. Houses here mostly full of windows ; a small room, in which 1 am BOW writing, has four ; I have seen six in one room, yet still more singular, often two-thirds of them closed by shut- ters and blinds. Some few of the bouses are built narrow, with the roofs inclining only one way. like half a large house split down the middle into two. Roofs are univer- sally formed of shingles, which have some appearance of tiles, but handsomer, and far preferable to either slates or tiles, as non-conductors of heat in this hot climate, yet of course more dangerous to fire. One evening, at the request of a respectable young man, I accompnied him to a for- Aine-teKer ; she was a respectable-looking woman, with a family, in a well -furnished house; the latter, probabl|, the fruits of disgusting culpability. Captains of vessels m||^e it fliin i i N, Oft ig like the lowest notes of )f robins — a bird of the size olour, vith a reddish breast. birds here as in England- ill sort whistling. Passed tream before-mentioned; it >f wooden workmanship, of inety feet span ; with two two foot ways six feet each, ngled roof, to keep it dry ; ted over it, under a penalty ; ar it (with one hundred and r. Passed through several of the town, on the common, lbs and head-stones in th9 lish names generally. Bal- )re than half Irish and their d some of the turnpike ones, tiie thaws and heavy rains; of the sun. It is said, there I England, which I think is lity to the gnlph-streani, as, ; quarter, rain or heavy foga outing, and grass beginning 8, crocusei*, &e. blowing, in poor place, belonging to a imer, to drink in, &c. But lout the town, although so every back street. Houses small room, in which 1 am seen six in one room, yet lirds of them closed by shut- the bouses are built narrow, one way. like half a large nto two. Roofs are univer- ;h have some appearance of preferable to either slates or at in this hot climate, yet of One evening, at the request I accompanied him to a for- able-looking woman, with a ise ; the latter, probab^, the Captains of vessels m^a it KO EMICR.ATIOK. # a practice to go to one of these oracles before embarking, to know their success! Even strict professors of religion do not scruple to avow their bblief, that they can give the desired information, past, present, and to come. I have been as near highly offending some of them as prudence would dic- tate, by laughing at tlieir credulity. Sunday, March 21.— Heard an English Missionary preach ; two of them just arrived from the West Indies on their way home. The Captain with whom they ca^ne tvould not take any thing for their passage. The difference in manner and countenance of an Englishman and n;hained with old custonns and prejudices; they likewise think their " mingled descent from various nations has a benign influence on genius, something like the improving effects of an analogous state upon vege- t^ibleSj and other inferior animals." Been to see some fat n s, on en years of nge. have ths naloB then enter the niRtri* nt the earliest of the above e iB iindeitervediy punished pithtt of " confirmed old lot entirely escape it. The lodge was married at four- just note by the way there this country, except for nisses, married as well as unmarried female has her ven " name added to Mist, ales. rm weather, thermometer le English April. Had a and wheat begin to shew t trees budding; weeping- g of fish tied in bunches, ; the air. When the fisher- them before being spoiled, water. Shad season just herring kind, but ten time* s. 6d. a pair, weighing firom )ne fisherman, the Unt day, n the spot at 11. 2s. 6d. per ice. The fisheries for shad ligh rents. Great plenty of turnip-tope, turnips, beets, ry, &e. and herbs, shrub*, able into the country; the leter 64. Saw a mar break- stiff, with a pair of horses, ihort lands, with one horse : neatly made, better adapted seen in general use in Eng- '.o adopt things to circum- lined with old customs and heir " mingled descent from uence on genius, something analogous state upon vege- ils." Been to see some fat MO KMICRATIOS-. 21 shew-beef at the Marsh Market, that was advertised ; it was what would be called pretty good in EngUud ; the butciier had the American flag stuck over his stall. April 4. — Took a walk to the race-ground, a new cleared piece of land, with a tavern erected on it, kept by the pro- prietor, who gave a silver cup to be run for, tu attract customers ; six horses started, some pretty good ones ; a great number of men and boys of the working classes, aud apprentices, throwing quoits, bowling, shooting at marks, pitch and hustle, &c. and gambling in the booths ; but ouly five or six femakes on the course. April 12. — ^There are English thorn hedges on two farms near, which are badly taken care of. and are just coming on the leaf. Apple and other trees out, and cherries in blossom ; saw some green peas fit to stick. The mocking birds begin to sing, Uiey are about the size of a t'.irush, with notes very similar ; 1 cannot distinguish the imitative powers which gave them their name. I have seen a number of black and other snakes, the former as nimble as weasels. Coughs and colds are not half so usual as in England; I have not felt one until now ; had a bad one on leaving Lon- don, as likewise had several of the ship's crew, but they left us the first day we got to sea, as the sailors had foretold. April 20.— Changeable weather; thermometer sometimes at 45, then again up to near 701 House flies get busy, and dance their merry meanders near the ceiling. Cockchaffers bus around you by thousands when walking out of town in an evening. Trees getting into full leaf; rye will soon be in the ear ; the people ploughing, sowing, &c. busily ; oats coming up and grass growing. Martins and swallows here some days, the former much larger than those in England, and of the colour of a starling, with a note not diasimilar. April 22.— Guns firing at Fort M'Henry; saw some field pieces and artillery-men ranged round, by beat of drum, the monument erected in memory of those who fell at the battle of Northpoint, in the late war. The Americans, when in company with Englishmen, are fond of introducing the last war into conversation, as if it was over but yesterday, it being also a continual theme in their newspapers ; the women are particularly warm on the subjoct, and will recount the plun- dering and burnings of th«ir coasts, by the British, with great animatioa and indignation; and if yoa answer them it wad in d8 mmm.» mmmm S2 XUIORATIOR, OR retaliation for plundering! ond burnings in Canada, they will positively deny it; so prejudiced and ignorant are they kept of the true circumstances of the case by an interested public press. The Baltimoreans prido themselves on the determined and successful defence of their city, when attacked bombarded by the British, yet acknowledge it was p«r> feet madness in the latter to make the attempt with only 7,000 mea, while the place was defended by 30,000, and its neighbourhood well fortified. There are two monuments built of marble; the one I have mentioned elegantly adorned with emblems, and the other a large one, nearly finished, to the memory of General Washington. Marble is plentiful ; some of the best houses have steps to their doora and win- dow-sills made of it ; I am informed It is brought down the Susquehanna river. The evenings ^re very short; it is, )tfter sunset, almost immediately c%tk, and the further south, uf course, the more so, as (ho jun rises and sets more vertical and perpendicular, and tonsequently, is sooner from the horizon. April 28.— Thermometer 72. Walked up Federal Hill— a high hill opposite the wharfs, on a neck of land (on the point of which Fort M'Henry is built) where signals are given of vessels coming up the Bay, v.'hich can be seen more than twenty miles. k ke the attempt with ontjr defended by 30,000, and There are two monument* entioned elegantly adorned ■ge one, nearly finished, to ;ton. Marble is plentiful ; ps to their doors and win- ned It is brought down tho tgs ^re very short; it is, y (.;n a neck of land (on the is built) where signals are ly, which can be seen more tar ; cloTer and grass grow- ^Ids green ah the second, to board ly of Upper Canada as to ad hoepitality of its inhabi- IS of land, with little or no years as a potash manufao* m account of the low price rket, and has been ramblbg through the States since. On a farm occupied by an Eng* iishnian, 1 Niiw itome Indian corn planted in coutlnued rows, which looked ii the straw anrt eart but plump and thick on the ground ; and some rye whoM ears were very long. Maryliiiid has the character of growing wheat of the best quality in the Union, and Balti- more for manufacturing the best flour. Great quantities of fine linen shirts made up in Baltimoro fur the SoutJ) American market: women getting only Is. each fur their making. The South American trade benefits the States much, and the enterprising inhabitants promptly nvnil themselves of its advantages. June 4. — Rather cold day, thermometer 67. In England it would be thought warm, such a difference does use and comparison make. On reading the papers at 'Change, I se* in England, that nothing but forming companies and specu- lations is the order of the day, some to work gold and silver mines, &c. in South America, cut a canal across the Isthmus of Darien, and join the Pacific with the Atlantic, &c. &c. Here they are also, everywhere, cutting canals and forming companies ; going to commence one from the rivet Ohio to Lake Erie. A company is also forming to cut one from the Cheeapeak to that river. The different States appear a little jealous of each other's prosperity, which acts as a stimulant to outdo the rest in all improvements to ottract trade, &c. June 7. — Fine and very hot, thermometer 87. I am told it is sometimes 100. Received the long wished for letter, and the news of more adverse fortune ; therefore it is time to bo doing something. 1 immediatoly determined to go to New York, and should nothing offer there, to Albany, or perhaps onward to Upper Canada, to which latter place I had turned my attention of late, in oonse* quence of the information I had received from the two young men before-mentioned, viz. that Canada was healthyt the climate good, and the people hospitable and friendly-; and, on the other hand, I had been informed Ohio, and the western States, were too hot and unhealthy, and the produce of land, &c. too low in price. But to me there is another and by far stronger motive for preferring Upper Canada to the States. In the former I shall enjoy, as a British subject, every privilege and advantage of the British consti" MM 26 EMIGRATION', OR tution, without ito burdens, and harassini^ and restrictive imposts. In the States if I become not a citizen, and talio the oath of allegiance, I cannot hold a heritable property ; in fact, I should, as an alien, be treated with suspicion, if not insult; and to abjure allei^iance to all other govern- ments, and particularly to the British (as their oath runs), I think no person with any feeling or spirit could, under any Circumstances, submit to, while the same advantages could be had without it. June 8. — Very fine and very warm, thermometer 90 in my sleeping room. I never recollect its being so hot ip England, still there is a pleasant breeze near the water. Have been disposing of part of my luggage, intending to go by the steam boat to Philadelphia in a few days. The dis- cipline of the common schools here appears to be very had, but I believe it is the parents' fault in not allowing the tptor to correct their children, or at least very little; indeed they appear to be under too little control, even to their parents, through the principles of democracy perhaps. ■ June 10.— Still hot, thermometer 92, but a brisk wind. Vinegar and water, sweetened with molasses, is much drank in this hot weather, and called switchel, or " Yankee beverage." A Yankee is a native of New England, and is synonimous to a Yorkshire bite in England. Drank a glass of lemonade at market, cooled with ice, \d, ; smaller glasses, id. When walking in the heat of the day without an umbrella to keep off the sun, I perspire excessively,- which affects my head, and otherwise makes me uncomfort- able. Stepped into Peale's Museum, the proprietor an Englishman : there were a great number of stuffed animals and dried birds, but all of them in a rapid state of decay through insects, for the want of proper knowledge how to preserve them, I suspect. Mr. P.'s loquacity informed me how he had duped the natives, by the introduction of a tune intoh is organ called the Berkshire fencibles, as a new tun9 by the name of the Baltimore volunteers, which gave him a great run. June 1 1 and 12. — Very hot, thermometer 82 at sun rise, and 99 in the afternoon. June 13.— Cloudy and cooler, thermometer 88> . 'Jsws'; ™ r injJi i ii;i,. ' j,....JJS" ' '^ iJ ox, OR id harassini^ and restrictive come not a citizen, and take >t hol(] a heritable property ; be treated with suspicion, if if^iance to all other govern- British (as their oath runs), leling or spirit could, under while the same advantages y warm, thermometer 90 in recollect its being so hot asant breeze near the water, my luggage, intending to go hia in a few days. The dis- here appears to be very had, b' fault in not allowing the or at least very little ; indeed little control, even to their of democracy perhaps, •meter 92, but a brisk wind, trith molasses, is much drank illed switchel, or '* Yankee tive of New England, and is >ite in England. Drank a cooled with ice, \d.; smaller 1 the heat of the day without sun, I perspire excessively, lerwise makes me uncomfort- Museum, the proprietor an at number of stuffed animals \m in a rapid state of decay of proper knowledge how to '. P.'s loquacity informed me by the introduction of a tune ihire fencibles, as a new tun9 volunteers, which gave him thermometer 82 at sun rise, ler, thermometer 88. mMmiismtmmmms^' KG EMlORATtON. S7 ii u*i- CHAPTER III. I.* jouusEY rnoM Baltimore to bvffalo and Ca- nada, IN TilR STEAM BOAT, TO THE HEAD OV THE BAY — BY tAND TO PHILADELPHIA — MAN- NERS, PRODUCE, AND CULTIVATION OF THE COUN- TRY — FURTHER PROCEEDINGS. June 14. — At five in the afternoon I started with my luggage, and after a pleasant run, arrived at French Town, at one o'clock this morn ; till dark it was pleasant, being covered from the sun by an awning, and hardly a rufiSe on the water. After eating a cracker or two (biscuits), and drinking some iced water, we turned in till we came ti^ shore, where we found the stages waiting, into which we hurried after fixing our trunks behind. Coaches in America are like strong gentlemen's carriages, or hackney coaches, carrying no outside passengers. I'he road being quite still, and the sides of the coach open, (they are of leather, and can be opened or shut at pleasure), I amused myself by observing the motions of the numerous " fire bobs" (flies) flashing in the air like candles. Arrived at Newcastle on the Delaware, at day break, eighteen miles from our disem- barkation. A canal is now cutting across, near here, froiu the Chesapeak Bay. Saw some kind of hedges, like thorn, on our route, and some poor land and poor crops. Arrived at Philadelphia between nine and ten o'clock ; took breakfast on board, charge 2s. 3d. — dear but excellent living. The Americans, I believe, live rather luxuriantly as to va- riety, in towns, and generally. In Baltimore, the ship car- penter with whom I boarded, had a roast turkey once or t« ice a week, fowls, beef steaks, ham, sausages, and a kind of " pudding," similar to the latter ; pies, soup, fish, &c. A variety of the above formed every meal, and generally at least three kinds of vegetables, with coffee or tea at breakfast and supper. Breakfast at eight, dine at twelve, and sup at sunset in summer, and cix o'clock in winter. Bread baked less, and meat generally cooked more, than in customary in England. Too many of the Americans (and also emigrants) are whiskey drinkers to excess ; and though they are seldom seen drunk, when on a "scale," or drink- ing frolic, are often seen near half-and-half, as it is termed mtm .* r 28 EMlORATlOy, 0,R in England; yet rarely exhibit the boisterous hilarity and noisy mirth, by singing, Ac, which is so Tamiliar to Johnny Bull in that state. Good rye whiskey 1 s. to I «. 2rf. per gallon, corn ditto less. There are brewers in every town that sell mild new beer; aud some old strong beer, brought from. Albany, to be had at the taverns, which is sold as dear as in England. The Delaware, up which we have been sailing, is a noble large river, and as 6ne scenery on its banks as I have yet.seen in America. Through the heat of the weather the witSr is steaming, milk warm. Arrive in Philadelphia, a place the more interesting for the generous and noble character of its worthy founder ; one may easily discern the sound judgment of Penn, in his choice ot a site for building the city. Far enough up the river to be out of danger of surprise from an enemy's fleet ; on ground sufficiently high and dry for health, with an easy slope to the water for convenience of trade, &c., and the country round rich and fertile. There are several English families leaving hereabouts, I am informed, for the province of Upper Canada, to procure land of government. Took a walk into the country; the soil in the vicinity of the town is a strong sandy loam ; saw some excellent crops of wheat, barley, and rye, partly lodged or laired. Wheat will be twelve or four- teen days before ripe, and rye eight or ten. People busy with their hay and clover, which are pretty good crops, but they have stood till they are too old before cutting, which appears to be a too general practice where I have been; but the heat of the climate, and, consequently, qi.ick growth and ripening of the grass, necessarily prevent the whole being cut down in proper order. Engaged board and lodging at the New England Hotel at 2s. 3d. per day. No- thing particularly striking in the town ; no elegant public springs or monuments, &c., that I could see, as at Balti- more : streets not so spi.cious, but more regular and compact than the latter. The country too fiat for shexv, the finest object being the river and its opposite shore, about half mile across, with a little island in the middle of it. Ca •■■maw wvBWHw^^ Steam and team boats continually crossing aud re-crossing. 1 hey are double boats, or two placed side by side, the pad- dles working biitween, with a. deck across both, to take wag- gons, carriages, &c. Yuu may drive into them sealed in any vehicle, and out on the ophite side on coming to Ihore, without the least danger. A large bell is rang every >«MHMn ^"P* bit the boisterous hilarity c, which is so familiar to d rye whiskey 1 s. to i s. id. here are brewers in every aud some old strong beer, at the taverns, which is sold )elaware, up which we have n, and as 6ne scenery on its erica. Through the heat of ing, milk warm. Arrive in interesting for the generous liy founder ; one may easily )f Penn, In his choice of r enough up the river to be in enemy's fleet ; on ground salth, with an easy slope to rade, &c., and the country are several English families id, for the province of Upper irnment. Took a walk into inity of the town is a strong crops of wheat, barley, and '^heat will be twelve or four- eight or ten. People busy h are pretty good crops, but 10 old before cutting, which :tice where I have been; but consequently, qi>ick growth :essarily prevent the whole rder. Engaged board and tel at 2s. 3d. per day. No- lle town ; no elegant public at I could see, as at Balli- jt more regular and compact too fiat for shew, the Hnest opposite shore, about half iland in the middle of it. illy crossing aud re-crossing, placed side by side, the pad- ck across both, to take wag- y drive into them seated in ophite side on coming to A large bell is rang every KO EMIGRATION. 29 time they make the shore, stop about ten minutes. rin» again and off. " June 15.— Fine and moderately hot, thermometer 8.3, some few clouds occaaionully give relief by interrupting the rays of the sun. Wlalst walking into the country and about the city saw some fine orchards and large gardens, which are kept in much better order, and also the farms, than they are generally in Maryland. Orchards appear to bear well every where, even on the poor thin soils, although the trees on such are, of course, not large. The markets are well supplied with meat of a good quality generally. Beef and pork good, veal excellent and white. Kidney be. ns Is. Hd. per peck. Plenty of young potatoes, but hardly large enough yet. I have not seen any Dutch turnips. Great quantities of strawberries and cherries, the last rather dear but good, 2|d. per lb. I recognise more of the English features here than at Baltimore. A considerable number of Quakers, whose clothing is less formal than their brethren in England. Have been introduced to some English fa- milies, of which there are a considerable number in this place. ^ June 16.— Started atsix o'clock this morning, in a steam- boat, for New York ; landed at Bristol ; then twenty-six miles by stage, nine passengers in each, the luggage behind, jolted along a rough road, smothered with dust, through Trenton, Princeton, Queev.'ston, and Kingston (in the state of New Jersey); the last three towns the only relics of mo- narchy left. Stage horses pretty good ; they change them quick. Taverns slovenly conducted, like most other common ones in the country. Took steam at Brunswick again, down a small river; dined on board, charge high, 3s. 4Jrf. ; to be sure we lived well were the meals not so hurried (bell rings,— a rush— eat— o£f in a few minutes), fish, flesh, and fowl, puddings, pies and tarts, brandy, &c. &c. ; tho fare was %-ery low, through opposition, 196 miles, (26 of them by stage), luggage included, for lis. 3d. only. A gentleman on board, from Carolina, who had a number of pieces of native gold from that state, where so much has of late been found on the surface of the soil, and in water courses ; one of the pieces, he said, was worth twenty- eight dollars, very fine, and in a shape it might be supposed to form, on being dropped into sand in a melted state. There is something striking in the views of this county, arising *r«illi 30 eSiioratiov, oil 1 probably from the glowing biigbtnesfe and warmth of tlie atmosphere, aided by a wide expanse of water, surrounded by woodland scenery. I was led to this observation by the beautiful prospects presented on approaching New York. A bright serene air, and cloudless sky— a gentle breeze- ships sailing, others at quarantine — fishing-boats here, steam-boats there. Houses rising every mmute, as we ap- proach, on each hand, on the eminences and slopes, inter- sected with woodland scenery, and enclosures, with cattle and sheep grazing in them. In front the city, with its spires— the masts of the numerous bhippuig along the wharfs, all presented to the sense of vision nearly at once, caused a most pleasing sensation. An American passes such a scene and the dullest objects with equal indit- ference. Indifference and shrewdness are the most striking features in the character of an American. They are never intoxicated with joy at success, nor depressed to despon- dency; defeated in one object, they are planning and cal- culating on the success of another ; never at a loss for an expedient; generally content, if not cheerful; never lose their confidence, or are thrown off their guard by passion ; this nonchalance arises probably from equality in circum- stances and much intercourse by travelling. But to return, —we landed, and after some uearch for lodgings, took my trunks to a tavern in Albany Street; GJrf. for lodging, and \s.\d. for each meal; five beds in the room I sleep in, occupied by civil and respectable decent- looking young men, who gave me not the least molestation. No suspicion was attached to going to and from the bed-room at any time ot the day, which I think speaks very favourably of the ho- nesty of the Americana. June 17.— Fine pleasant day, thermometer 78. On see- ing un advertisement in a newspaper, for an overseer to superintend a plantation in a southern state, ! made appli- cation, but found several applicants before me— "Still I think I shall succeed, But still am disappointed." Had a. walk through tho town and vicinity : it is situated on the south-east end of Mahatten Island, which is apparently about two miles across, and several in length. North or Hudson River runs on one side, and East River on the other, at tho end of which they join. A very great num- HMM ■ V, oil litnesfe and warmth of the anse of water, surrounded to this observation by the 1 approaching New York. !8s sky — a gentle breeze — tine — fishing-boats here, ig every minnte, as we ap- ninences and slopes, inter- ind enclosures, with cattle a front the city, with its erous bhipping along the jense of vision nearly at sensation. An American est objects with equal indif- dness are the most striking \merican. They are never , nor depressed to despon- ;hey are planning and cal- ;her ; never at a loss for an r not cheerful ; never lose oS their guard by passion ; y from equality in circum- ' travelling. But to retuin, (arch for lodgings, took my reel ; 6Jrf. for lodging, and 8 in the room I sleep in, decent- looking young- men, station. No suspicion was ;he bed-room at any time of very favourably of the ho- thermometer 78. On see- irspaper, for an overseer to uthern state, ! made appH- fints before me — hall succeed, appointed." nd vicinity: it is situated on Island, which is apparently jveral in length. North or Je, and East River on the join. A very great num- NO EMIGRATIOV. sr ber of vossek, of all kinds and sizes, lying at the wharfs on both sides of the town, and a great deal of business going forward, more like London than any other place I have seen. Broadway is a fine street, as nre alsn some others. Markets are well supplied, but appear to be much crowded. At the back of the town there are evideiU marks of an overwhelming flood. On the highest piirts of the island the soil is washed off the rocks, and huge stones laid bare, or tumbled together in the ravines. Another such a place near Trenton, on high land. Almost all the roads leading to a town in America are full of houses on tiicir sides, called " taverns," or " liquor," " beer and cake," or " grocery" stores. My notice was attracted to-day by one with a small kitchen garden before it, with a few benches for seats, with Watf.rloo Gaudexs in printed capitals over the gate! ns a magnet, I suppose, to attract the contents of Johnny Bull's purse. New York is a place of great trade, and will still increase, it is so well situated. Open at all times to the sea — at the confluence of several fine rivers, and the canal from Albany to Lake Erie greatly augments it. The state of New York is the richest in the Union, and the cli- mate the most genial and moderate for Europeans. The pi-ices of wheat, flour, &c. here, at Baltimore and PhiladeN phia, are nearly the same. As building in summer is always going on, house-carpenters, brick-makers, and bricklayers, generally find employment almost anywhere, except in the depth of winter, at 4s. (id. to 7s. or 8s. per day ; also shoemakers, tailors, and persons well acquainted with any useful common trade, may meet with employ in some place or other. I determined to proceed to Albany, and thence, if nothing offers, to Upper Canada, by canal. A farmer would cut a sorry figure in a store amongst the Yankees, and there appears to be but few other situa- tions vacant, and that occupation uncertain. June 18.— On board the steam tug- boat (a boat tugged along by a steam-boat) for Albany ; the fare was one dollar, or 4s 6d. one trunk included, Is. lid. for the other; in the steam-boat the fare is highci-. I'he passengers con- sist principally of farmers, farmers' wives, and trades-people, two or three of the fori..er are " squires," as they are termed (justices of the peace). With this company I pass as a Yankee! Like the rest of the passengers I carry provisions for twenty-four hours, and half a pint m 1 'ft* EMIGRATION, OR of rye whisky (2d. only), a little of which, I find, with water, agrees with me better this hct weather than water alone, or even beer. June 19, Sunday.— Vfarm Iwt .light and pleasant to-day. The Hudson river, up which we are travelling, is a noble stream running between high romantic hills and mountains on each hand. The Kaatskill mountains are the most con- spicuous, making a grand appearance with the clouds flying far below their tops along their sides. The Chancellor Li- vingstone, and another noble steam-boat, two-deckers, past us down; they are really floating palaces. The steam- boats are larger, and more elegantly fitted up, than any I have seen in the Thames ; indeed they are carried to ex- cess, more fitted for voluptuaries than for cuol calculating Republicans. Arrive in Albany, and stop at a tavern kept by an Hibernian, for the night. June 20.— Finding I am not likely to procure any situa- tion hereabouts, I have determined to continue westward by the canal (here pronounced canol), in company with an itino' rant bookselling merchant, who is going to Canada. He put his books, and I my trunks, on board a trading boat, and walked on a nearer way, to see the country and save ex- pense, till the boat should overtake us. Fare something less than Id, a mile for myself and oue trunk, and 3s. 4ia. for the other, 761b., to Lockport, near 300 miles. The boats have relays of horses, and go night and day. Albany is an old, large, and improving place, with but indifferent land about it, yet the trade by the Erie and east canals en- sures great prosperity in trade. Travelled twenty-five miles to-day, and stopped for the night at a plain Dutch farmer's tavern, seven miles above Schenectada, on the flats of the Mohawk river, on which, to nearly the whtfle extent, the Dutch are settled. Flats are what would be termed meadows in England; but there is this difference, in England the meadows in general are subject to floods, but here in Ame-^ rica there are but few rivers that overflow their banks, their banks being mostly high, and till the land is generally cleared, the woods and swamps preserve the heavy rains from running off in torrents. The flats of the Mohawk river in many places are bounded on each side by high barren hills and mountains, covered with scrub timber, v&'l brush-wood. The Mohawk flats are considered some of the very richest land in the Union j they are settled nearly, if IN, OR tie of which, I find, with is hct weather than water t .light and pleasant to-dajr. e are travelling, is a noble Dmantic hills and mountains nountains are the most con- rance with the clouds flying sides. The Chancellor Li- mm-boat, two-deckers, past ating palaces. The steam- gantly fitted up, than any eed they are carried to ex- es than for cuol calculating y, and stop at a tarem kept likely to procure any situa- led to continue westward by 1), in compa'iy with an itine- 9 is going to Canada. He s, on board a trading boat, see the country and sare ex- irtake us. Fare something and due trunk, and 3s. 4|a. lort, near 300 miles. The 1 go night and day. Albany place, with but indifferent the Erie and east canals en- Travelled twenty-five miles It at a plain Dutch farmer's enectada, on the flats of the learly the whtfle extent, the at would be termed meadows difference, in Enghmd the to floods, but here in Ame^ it overflow their banks, their d till the land is generally » preserve the heavy rains The flaU of the Mohawk nded on each side by high ered with scrub timber, as^ (s are considered some of the a; they are settled nearly, If MO EMIGRATION. 33 not entirely, by Dutch. It is a fact rather singular, that the Dutch (as farmers, which most of them are) thrive best of all settlers; the reason is obvious; thoy are a close-living, hard-working, frugal people, and, what most ensures success, they always settle in companies, and generally on the richest land. Corn, grain, &c. looking pretty well, and the farms in tolerable good order. Green peas just coming in; they, and other crops, are three weeks lat "r than in Maryland. Heird the first whip-poor-will and the first bull frog, the latt'jr I at first took to be the bellowing of a bull at a' distance. June 21,— Very warm to-day, the people gay hot: the high hills keep off the cold breezes from these low confined grounds. Walked thirty-two miles to-day in company with the merchant, a curious old bachelor of furty-fivo, and dis- ciple of Malthus. The canal, which runs all up the flats near the river, has a good deal of traffic on it. The boat- men, in general, civil, and even respectable, a contrast to some of that class in England ; but a good number of them are farmers, who carry their own produce to market, or leave their farms at the least busy time and go as captains and mates to the trading boats. Some elegantly fitted up packet boats, drawn by three horses on a trot, pass us to- day, full of fine ladies and gentlemen. There is the same easy indifference, or nonchalance, in the American females as I before remarked in the males. Some of them are fine figures, with handsome features, and pretty good colour, yet but little of the play of the soul. You may ad- mire their handsome forms, and enjoy their company unem- barrassed and r'ith corresponding indifference, without bsing in any great danger of having a more tender passion excited. Should much disagreement arise between husband and wife, they generally separate, and a newspaper is seldom seen withou^ advertisements respecting them, warning not to (rust, &c. June 22.— Passed through what are called the German flats ; a pretty well settled country and good land, where the'' boat overtook us in which we had left our luggage, into which we got, where there were twelve or fourteen passen- gers already, several of them women, who occupy all the beds and fore cabin, so we are forced to be content with the body of the boat, and spread the blankets (which are plen- tiiul) on the packages of merchandize to sleep, which is e2 34 tMIORATIOIf, OR 1 not very diiagreeable this warm weather. It ha» been re- narked that Englishmen generalty are the most particular and fastidious about such trifles on travelling in this country. The boats are one-third wider than those used on canals in England, and covered their whole length, leaving suflScient room for standing erect in them. Though so fcr lack io the woods, the people are very similar in their manners and behaviour to those in and near towns; generally civil, soms polite and intelligent ; no awkward rudeness or embarrass- ment in their behaviour ; no provincialisms, and but few peculiarities in their Innguage. All speak the English lan- guage plaiuly, and mostly correct, with some few exceptions, chiefly in pronunciation, which they have generally adopted, as improvements or corrections of Walker— thus, in engine, acorn, excellent, and some others, the accent is placed on the second syllable. Thames is by them pronounced Thaymes. June 23.— The canal appears about three-fourths the* size of the Grand Junction in Enjfland. The bridges an nearly all of wood, and too low, net allowing a person to sit upright on a boat passing them. The canal b shut up in winter by frost. The water is let through the locks by a much quicker and easier method than what I have seen in England, by merely turning a lever about one-third of ^ circle. There are several companies that run " lines " of boats regularly, the «• packet line" fitted up chiefly for passengers, drawn by three horses, a boy riding one of them and keeping them on a trot; charge 24 per mile, board, &c. included. " Pilot line," " merchant line," and others, carry both passengers and merchandize, drawn by two horses each, go night and day, (60 or 70 miles in 24 hours.) and charge Irf. per mile, and board yourself, and 4«. 6d. per 100 lb. weight of luggage and merchandize from Albany to Bufl'aloe, 296 miles. Towns are much called after Greek, Roman, and other ancient names — as Rome, Troy, Camillns, Maulines, Galen, Utica, Syracuse, &c. At Salina, near the latter place, are extensive salt works. A great many buildings made to evaporate the salt water by the sun, with slidini; roofs, and others for evaporation by boiling. The salt sells for about Is. 2d. per bushel, and 2». 4d. per cwt. very good quality of fine and coarse sorts. Houses springing up like mushrooms; here and there a young Tillage or town. Vbe canal crosses the skirt* of =92Se OB 'catlier. It has been re> (Iand. The bridges «r« net allowing a person to sit The canal b shut up in let through the locks by a i than what I hare seen in lever about one-third of ;^ lanies that run " lines" of line" fitted up chiefly for arses, a boy riding one of trot; charge 24 per mile, ne," " merchant line," and nd merchandize, drawn by I day, (60 or 70 miles in tile, and board yourself, and ;gage and merchandize from . Towns are much called ancient names — as Rome, lien, Utica, Syracuse, &c. e, are extensive salt works, to evaporate the salt water nd others fur evaporation by rat Is. 2d. per bushel, and ity of fine and coarse sorts, shrooms; here and there a canal crosses the skirts of NO EMIGR\TION. 35 some small lakes, and extensive open marshes, and through some smart towns. Utica, one of the largest and prettiest, has two or three churches, and other places of worship, with large and neat houses, some few of brick, but the greater part of frame, and painted in various shades of yellow and stone colouring, which gives them a gay and lively appear* ance. In some of these new towns, the streets are as yet only ridged, or " tumpiked," in the centre; others are gra- velled, but none, I believe, yet paved. Land worth from 6 to 25 or 30 dollars per acre, or from 30s. to 71. 10s. Cows from 21. 4s. to 4/, 10s. each; sheep 4s. 6d. to 9s; horses from 4/. 10s. to 16 or 17/. June 24. — A cloudy pleasant day. An agreeable way of travelling, by boat ; you can sit and view the varied scenes of the country through which you pass, write or read, lie down at your ease, or get out and walk for exercise when you please. Passed by a small plot of ground planted with hope, which looked pretty well. People busy ploughing between their corn, or maize, (wheat, rye, barley, &c. are here universally called grain). The people ever since I left Baltimore are all " guessers " and •• calculators," and on asking a question, and it be not understood, they say—" how, sir?" or " how is that, sir?" or " which ?" or " which is it?" June 25. — Passed through Rochester, situated on the Genessee river, near some largo falls of water, which work a number of flour mills and other machinery. This place is well situated for trade, and has thriven remarkably. There are no locks between Rochester and Lockport, a distance of 65 miles ; nor is the country much settled, being too wet and flat. Lockport is a place of some business ; five of the locks rise 60 or 80 feet up a rock of blackish hard stone ; they are finished off in a neat, not to say elegpnt style. People in some parts of this western country appear to act under little restraint with regard to the duties of a Christian Sabbath ; for although no stores (shops) are open, I saw along the canal, in several places, people loading boats, carting, &c., and a woman in the boat knitting all day with- out exciting any notice or remark. June 26. — ^Walked the five miles portp.ge, and gave Is. \id. for the carria^o of my trunks. A number ef peo- ple, chiefly Irish, blasting the rocks, and clearing out the bottom of '.he canal. Slept at r log-taverrs to-night for Ibe fiiat of the kind, in the bar room, wh'ch had a hole through ; 1 '») 36 EMlOnATION, OR the roof as a substitute for a chimney! Paid 31rf. for my bed, which is the general price in the western country if two sleep in a bed, but mostly double that if alone. June 27— Arrived at Black-Rock, a large and smart village on the Niagara River, 24 miles from Lockport, and two from Buffaloe, and nearly opposite Fort Erie, in Canada, at the head of the Niagara river. After seeing my trunks safe, I walked to Buffaloe, a great shipping port for the western States, situate on or near the Upper Lakes. Buf- faloe was burnt in the war, and some other places, by the British, in retaliation for the burning and plundering the Canada side by the Americans. It is now rebuilt, and is a thriving place. The wind being brisk and westward, drives down the lake the big rolling waves, which break on the pier and beech with a thundering noise. Returned to Black- Rock, where the ferry is kept, to cross into Canada, it being the narrowest part of the river, (near a mile across) and rather rapid, and which is made more so by a pier run into it on the American side. The water is clear, and is gene- rally used by those who live on the banks. The charge at the ferry is Is. lid. There is no town on the Canada side, only two or three stores or shops, (" stores " may be distin- guished by— dry goods, stores, hardware, or general, the last keep an assortment of every thing), a mill, a small church, a few private houses, three taverns or inns, all having good accommodation, to one of which I went for the night. CHAPTER IV. ARUIVAL IN UPPER CANADA COMPAniSON OY THE STATE OF EACH SIDE OF LAKE ER IR — INTRODUC- TION TO COL. TALBOT— INSPECTION OF LOTS OF LAND — ENGAGEMENT WITH HIM — HIS ESTABLISH- MENT — MODES OF CULTIVATION — NATURAL VHOr DUCE, AND VARIOUS PLACES, NOTICED. June 28. — I am once again under the jurisdiction of the British government and laws, and therefore feel myself no longer un alien. Though the Americans, in general, are civil and friendly, still on Englishman, himself as a stranger amongst Ihem, is annoyed and disgusted by mBSBk OH :himneyl Paid 31rf. for I in the western country it' ible thnt if alone, lock, a largo and smart miles from Lockport, and >site Fort Erie, in Canada, After seeing my trunks eat shipping port for the r the Upper Lakes. Buf- some other places, by the rning and plundering the It is now rebuilt, and is a )risk and westward, drives aves, which break on the noise. Returned to Black- cross into Canada, it being (near a mile across) and more so by a pier run into iter is clear, and is geoe- le banks. The charge at ) town on the Canada side, (" stores " may be distin- hardware, or general, the y thing), a mill, a small three taverns or inns, all me of which I went for tho IV. COMPAUISON or THE LAKE ERIE — INTRODUC- INSPECTION OF LOTS OF II HIM — ms ESTABLISH- VATION — NATURAL PROr CE9, NOTICED. ider the jurisdiction of the and therefore feel myself he Americans, in general. Englishman, himself as a niioyed and disgusted by KO EMIORATIOK. 37 their vaunted prowess in the late puny war, and luperi- ority over all other nations. They assume it as a wlf- evident fact, that " the Americans surpass all others in virtue, wisdom, valour, liberty, government, and every other excellence!" Yet much as the Americans deserve ridicule for this foible, still I admire the energy and en« terprize every where exhibited, and regret the apathy of the British government with regard to the improvement of this province. A single glance down the banks of the Niagara tells on which side the most cfiicjent government has resided. On the United States side large towns springing up; the numerous shipping, with \,',srs to protect them in harbour, coaches rattling along the road, and trade evidenced by waggons, carts and horses, and people on foot, in various directions. Ou the Canadian side, although in the immediate vicinity, an older aeltlement, and apparently better land, there are only two or three •tores, a tavern or two, a natural harbour without piers, but few vessels, and two temporary landing places. Farm houses there are all over the district, nearly one on each farm, and probably the far.-ner&, &c. doing very well. A town cannot be built, as government retain the land for f-rtifications. Trade ther» annot be much till the upper part of the province is more settled. Inquired of two Englishmen, who had considerable farms, if they wanted a jterson to superintend them, or knew of any person who did ; but no, every person looks after his own business in this country. The land is a stiffish black earth, on a rock Mveral feet under the surface : it is excellent for wheat, clover, and grass, and is chiefly settled and owned by Dutch from the States. Left my trunks and travelled down the level banks of the wide Niagara river; the roaring sound of the Great Falls broke on my ear at twelve or fourteen miles distance. This wonder of the world, although it dots not come up to the idea I had formed of it by reading travellers' de- scriptions, is yet truly grand ; the immense body of water which accumulates in the Great Lakes above, from a thousand creeks and rivers, is here concentrated. From Chippawa it rushes down a sharp rapid, dashing over huge stones and broken rock (which^ for a moment, appear to arrest its impetuous course), near a mile before it cones to the precipice, where it is converged to a cora- ls*- ;fP EMIGRATION, OR paratively narrow space, when It pours down over llio rock in a sheet, with great force and nfiise, amongst the masaea of broken rock in the gulph boiow, forcing up the apray to a great height, at a distance looking like stonm rising from an enormous boiling cauldron tixed in thu bowels of the earth ; sometimes, in clear wcnther it con- denses into a thick cloud, and is suon more than sixty miles. The sun shining on the misty spray, forms beautiful rainbows. The water, on rolling from the abyss below, down the comparotively narrow but deep chnsm it has formed, is white with air bubbles, similar to the cftervcsconco of soda water. There is a similar Fail on the A'Mcrican side, running round a piice of land called Goat Island. There are occasional instances of people in boats crossing the river above the rapids, venturing too near them ; and, unable to stem the rapidity of the current, are consequently forced over the Falls. There are three large and elegant hotels, one on the American and two on the Canada side; the latter standing on a small rise of ground, on the bank of the river, 150 or 200 feet above the top of the falls, commanding a fine view of the rapids and river above. Met some Indians to day on horseback; saw numbers of them at Buffaloe yesterday, some in almost every store, and sitting and loitering about the doors; numbers of them wear large ear-rin^. Saw one with a wooden leg, and another with one arm : many of them at a little distance hare the appearance of gypsies; their colour and hair being nearly the same, but features and dress different. The features of the Indians rather more broad, and have stronger expression, more grave in their manner, and less fire in their eyes, both equally straight in their persons and active, which arises probably through intermitting exertions and absence of hard labour. Walked on towards Lake (In tario, along c nearly level country, for seven miles, through two BvaoW villages, and came to the edge of a mountain three or four hundred feet high, overlooking a considerable extent of country on both sides the river, and the Lake Ontario. THe village of Quecnston is situated at the foot of this moiMStain or ridge, where the Falls evidently have been, seve« miles from the present one ; the river here is amazingly deep at the foot of the mountain. This village is situated at the head of the Ontario navigation, and though small has been a thriving place, but now in a state N, OR It pouM down owft tlio and noisp, amongst the Iph bulow, foTc'inf; up the [stance looking like Btoam g cnuldron fixed in the in rlear wcnthcr it con- is scon more thnn sixty listy sprny, forms bonutil'ul rem the aby»8 bulow, down !p chnsm it hns formed, is ) the efl'ervcscenco of soda 1 on tlio A'Mcrican side, mlled Goat Island. There I in boats crossing the river near them ; and, unable nt, are consequently forced e large and elegant hotels, on the Canada side ; the ) of ground, on the bank above the top of the falls, p rapids and river above, [urscback ; saw numbers of e in almost every store, and doors; numbers of them with a wooden leg, and if them at a little distance !8; their colour and hair es and dress different. The >re broad, and have stronger r manner, and less fire in in their persons and active, intermitting exertions and ced on towards Lake (In y, for seven miles, through the edge of a mountain , overlooking a considerable 8 the river, and the Lake ston is situated at the foot re the Falls evidently have lent one ; the river here is be mountain. This village le Ontario navigation, and ig place, but i\ovr in a state NO EMIOUATIOV. 39 of dfcny ; the town of Niagara, seven miles below, at the mouth of tlio Niagara river, having engrossed all the trade, excepting the forwarding of merchandise up, and produce down from the upper part of the province. Queenston is in a ploanant and very healthy situation, and the country pretty well cleared back ; the houses are in a state of dila- pidation. There is the small but neat and healthy village of St. David's, two miles back of honce. A steam boat lay at the wharf, which runs to various parts of Lake Ontario. June 30.- Returned again through Chippawa to the Ferry. People busy getting up their hay ; crops are light through the unusual drought : great plenty of cherries along the road side, in the orchards, of which every passer by takes what ho can eat without let or hindrance, or it being thought a trespass. Two or three stages run between the Falls and tho Ferry during the summer months. Juhj 1.- Stopping with a farmer, a native of Canada, till I can look about for a situation. Cherries are abundant this year, as also line largo red currants, some of which they preserve, and dry others. Wild gooseberries and currants near tho woods, but not very tempting. Wild raspberries plenty, and tolerably good. Plenty of grapes also, but nut yet ripe. Saw a number of dead fish along the beach, one upwards of twenty pounds r'r>ight, killed against tho rocks by tho violence of the waves in a storri. Also a few of tho only species of a duck that breeds here, called shell-duck, they live on fish, and are not very good eating ; one of them had thirty-five young ones. July 4. — Fine and warm, or rather hot. The Americans celebrating their indepenilciud' l>v firing guns, cannon, &c. Grass ratiier alight f"'i , 'hrough tho uncommon dryness of the season, not hnvut. h^cn any rain of consequence for seven or ciglit wi .* -til the pastures are not burnt up, nor is the groun- /.il ,iarter so much cracked as it would have been in T'i^imx with tho same drought. The dryness of the groiiftv. oi sos the atmosphere to bo more heated than usual, yet there has been only two or three daj-s I thought ^oo hot, and in these I was helping the farmer and his son get up somo hay without being much incon- venienced, »$ there is often a fine cool breeze from the lake in bot weather. July H. — Left the above farmer, who had treated me friendly, and wished me to call on him, and make his house i M •«' 4 V ..4.^3i: ^ ^ -^ ^r^ ^ ^^ : • I in ■\\f. 40 EMIGRATION, OR ray home, whenever convenient. Travelled up the Lake beach, in company with a man from the Talbot settlement, whither I am proceeding to take up a lot of government land. Good walking along the white sandy beach, except in a few places round points of land where it is rocky (some of it lime stone), or rough with coarse gravel. Tra- velled thirty-o^e miles to day, and stopped at a miserable log tavern to sleep ; my companion having remained behind at a farmer's to make some shoes. This part of the province is settled chiefly by Dutch, most of them a sturdy, old fashioned, and honest race of people; high sand banks back the beach, covered with pines, juniper, and other evergreen trees and shrubs. Behind these sand banks are marshes and swamps in some places; in others, and behind the swamps, is a rich black soil on a lime-stone rock, and in places, a considerable quanlity of loose stones are scattered over the surface. It has evidently been overflown, at some remote period, by the lake. Saw a woman washing on the beach, her family of small children playing around, and rolling on the sand; her husband looking after the yoke of oxen, that had drawn down on a sled the washing tub and pot to boil the clothes in, &c. This is a common way in dry seasons, when good soft water is not to be had near homei I passed a remarkably peaked hill to day, in the form of a sugar loaf, which name it bears ; it is covered with timber to its very top. It is a good sea-mark for sailors on the lake. Some of the people about here have a half Indian appearance ; dirty habits, sallow thm visages, and meanly dressed ; living in the woods, sur- rounded by swamps, they are half hunter and half farmer. July 25. — Walked on for Grand River or Ouse— " Remote, unfriended, melancholy, glow, Or on the woody banks or beech below, Or onward where the free Canadian boor. Welcomes the houseless stranger to his door." A heavy shower coming on, I took shelter in the Naval Depot. Several old vessels of war lie sunk in the mouth of the river rotting, and a number of cannon and cannon-balls 8tre>ved about the beech. This depot consists apparently of one well furnished, low, but rather large, house, for the ofiicers, and ttvolve or fourteen small log-huts as bar- racks, for about eighteen or twenty soldiers and sailors. J g|ar.: )N, OR it. Travelled up the Lake from the Talbot settlement, ke up a lot of government > white sandy beach, except of land where it is rocky ;h with coarse gravel. Tra- and stopped at a miserable lion having remained behind shoes. This part of the [Itch, most of them a sturdy, ice of people; high sand id with pines, juniper, and >s. Behind these sand banks lome places; in others, and ack soil on a lime-stone rock, quantity of loose stones are has evidently been overflown, lake. Saw a woman washing lall children playing around, r husband looking after the down on a sled the washing I in, &c. This is a common }od soft water is not to be markably peaked hill to day, which name it bears; it is top. It is a good sea-mark le of the people about here dirty habits, sallow thin living in the woods, sur- lalf hunter and half farmer. rand River or Ouse — ncholy, slow, or beech below, Canadian boor, stranger to his door." _ took shelter in the Naval war lie sunk in the mouth of r of cannon and cannon-balls - depot consists apparently of rather large, house, for the ;en small log-huts as bar- twenty soldiers and sailors. NO EMIGRATIOM. 41 There is a small island near called Gull Island, under which is one of the few places on this Lake shipping can run into in safety for anchorage in bad weather. A large tract of rich land on the river is still in possession of the Mohawk Indians; saw a party of them to-day at camp under the shade of some trees, making baskets ; they had plenty of fish in their canoe, which they had speared. After leaving Grand River, I passed through eight miles of Indian wood- land without a house, and came to Evans' Tavern, one of the best on the Lake banks I am told, though but indif- ferent; it is kept by an Irishman, a captain of militia, where I stopped for the night. July 26. — Arrive at Paterson's Creek, (small rivers and brooks are in America improperly called creeks), the begin- ning of the Long Point Settlement. It is a dry sandy soil, thinly wooded with low white oaks, and is what is here termed plains. The land is not very rich, but will bear good crops for several years, and if manured, and plaster (gypsum) applied, of which there is great plenty at Grand River, and is now beginning to be used, and a proper rota- tion of crops introduced, it would be some of the most use- ful and valuable land in the province : it is well watered with constant spring streams. On the greater part of these " plains" the settler has only to cut up here and there a little under-brush or shrubs, and girdle the trees (chop a ring round them through the bark to stop the rising of the sap, when they die), when he may put in the plough ; it will require a strong team to break it up the first time, but afterwards can be ploughed with one yoke of oxen, or a " span" of horses. The (evi trees, which stand twenty or thirty or more yards apart, when killed by girdling, do not in the leu^t injure the crop, nor much inconvenience the plougbin(( There are some rather extensive farms here- abouts, which raise (grow) large quantities of rye, corn, and buck-wheat, chiefly for distilling, :ind also wheat, since clover, which it bears lemarkably well, and gypsum have been introduced. But it is evident their system of manage- ment is too deteriorating for this or any other soil. Rye, corn, wheat, and oats continually, with only a few peas, and a little clover intervening, and then but seldom ; *hen clo- ver is sown, it is too often on th«i ground in a bad state, lying two or three years and becoming full of grass and rubbish, in which state it is, perhaps, ploughed up for wheat, &e. > '' lljl j' -J 42 EMIORATIQ^^OR But little fallowing of land, nor indeed is it neceMft.y under a proper system. Land, if ever so foul, can be easily cleaned with a corn crop. There are no tares, t«™{P8». <» cabbages, to pulverise and ameliorate the soil, which 1 think might be introduced in a small way to advantage ; and although the two latter will not stand all through the win- ter, (except Swedish turnips), yet there is seldom any frost to hurt them till after the middle of December, when they might be put into cellars made in the ground for the pur- pose. Rape or cole-seed (a small patch of which I have seen looking tolerably veil, but evidently sown too late) I believe would answer well on this soil, and some others, for its seed, as oil mills are introduced into the province ; I be- lieve it would grow to perfection on new, or rich old land : in the latter case it might be sown after wheat, rye, barley, or peas, as they are o£f the ground generally early enough. Sunflowers also have been sown for their seeds for poultry and oil, and I think are deserving notice, as they grow re- markably luxuriant, evidently produce a large quantity of seed per acre, and require little trouble in their cultivation. Every person busy getting the harvest in; good hands for cradling the grain in request, 3s. 4d. in cash, or 4s. 6d. in trade, with board, per day; there is but little advance of wages given in harvest from other times. Up to the present time almost every payment has been made in trade— that is an exchange of articles of grain, cattle, or goods from the store (shop). . , , , July 29.— Stopped a day or two with an agreeabie, re- spectable working farmer (as they all are in this country) from Nova Scotia, who wanted to engage me to stop and help him twelve months for the share of one-third of the produce of his farm, and treated as one of the taaa\j. He was going to put in (sow) forty acres of wheat this »» (au- tumn), and calculated they would produce 1000 bushels, besides other grain and corn ; but I declined. Farmers, captains, and esquires, rich and poor, none think it a dis- jrrace to work, even for each other; yet, except m hay- time and harvest, there is but little steady work from morn to night It has been said, that, " in America, if you want any thing done, you must d»it yourself," which, generally, is true, as you cannot always hire others; this is peculiarly the case in new settled parte, where every one can get land to himself. This is one reason customs differ from those in _L *^0R indeed is it neceMttiy ever so foul, can be easily are no tares, turnips, or ate the soil, which 1 thinie way to advantage; and itand all through the win- t there is seldom any frost of December, when they I the ground for the pur- all patch of which I have evidently sown too late) I soil, and some others, for d into the provime ; I be- on new, or rich old land ; n after wheat, rye, barley, nd generally early enough. for their seeds for poultry t notice, as they grow re- iroduce a large quantity of trouble in their cultivation, larvest in; good hands for , 4d. in cash, or 4s. 6d. in re is but little advance of it times. Up to the present leen made in trade — that is I, cattle, or goods from the two with an agreeable, re- jy all are in this country) to engage me to stop and share of one-third of the [ as one of che family. He teres of wheat this fall (au- uld produce 1000 bushels, but I declined. Farmers, i poor, none think it a dis- other; yet, except in hay- ttle steady work from morn t, " in America, if you want yourself," which, generally, ire others; this is peculiarly here every one can get land customs differ from those in T iiSsm&HMcs sm^ssr VO EMIGRATION. 43 England. If you want grist ground, you must take it in your waggon or sleigh to the mill, and even into the mill, and out again when ground; the same at the distilleries and stores; goods are seldom delivered even to the door; every person in business acts as if conferring a favour. I had been directed to Colonel Talbot, who has a grant of two townships from the government, with a vinw to havine a " lot," and in proceeding to his residence passed through several miles of pine wood to Big Creek, ind twelve miles further of wood before coming into " Talbot Street,'' as it ia called, having houses on each side, at about one-i'ourth of a mile distance from each other, or about eight in a mile, one on each lot of 200 acres. This lower part of Talbot Street is on a bank of sand, or pine ridge, of barren soil. Thera is some good land on each side of this ridge, but rather flat and swampy. Three parts of the houses are empty, the iuhabitants having " c;oared out" for better land, I " ^ess ;" — but those that remain say in consequence of " » t wn, and also the Colonel's Ats" below. The Colonel rived, but soon retumt8 are laid out in parallelo- or 200 acrea each, having et, with small posts bearing I next procee<'ed towards larwich, to view some va- was hospitably entertoiued kithough he was indigent; MO EMIORATIOM. 45 but learning that the land I was goi**^ lu was swampy, re- turned to Clear Creek. I found musquitoes in this trip, but not so troublesome as I had supposed they would be, and there were also a variety of snakes, all harmless, except the copper-head and rattle sm^ke ; but it is seldom that persons are bit by these, and old residents do not dread them, as many vegetable antidotes are well known in the woods ; in fact, they are acquainted with the name and virtues of every plant, while new comers are years learning the names of trees only. CHAPTER V. ENGAGEMENT WITH COLONEL TALBOT — IIIS FARM, GAR- DEN, AND ORCHARDS DESCRrBED — JOURNEY TO FORT ERIE — THE COUNTRY, ITS PRODUCE, AND RESOURCES NOTICED. Aug. 9. — Returned to Colonel Talbot's, who recommended my waiting until the survey of the new township of Orford should return from the land office at York, where it had been sent for inspection, and the reserves marked out, I could have an early choice, to which I assented : and as the Colonel's foreman, or overseer of his farm, soon after left his situation, I engaged to succeed him. The harvest this sea- son is earlier than usual, through the long continued drought and hot weather. A Canada summer is much like the finest and hottest we have in England : but I am told the heat ik.creases at a distance from the lakes. The Colonel's wheat and oat crops fair, the peas good ; but too dry for potatoes and corn. Aug. 14.—" Hauling" peas, (that is, drawing them on waggons to the stack). Aug. 16. — Rain all day, with the wheat and oats in the field yet for want of hands, the harvest in th» neighbour- hood being nearly all finished for the year. I'he Colonel has about 150 sheep shut up in a pen at night to preserve them f ^om the wolves, (this is not done in old settlements) j they arp of various breeds, some with and some without horns. Twenty-five milch cows ; four yoke of oxen broken in, besides one yoke killed this fall ; fifty or sixty head of young cattle, which run in the woods all the summer; F 2 .»■ iKi ^6 BMIORATION, OR il 1 I twentr-three weaning calves; four horses of the nag kind, with uncut long tails, the only sort in this country, and are generally pretty good, but want a little more blood ; four sows and a number of store pigs, who also get their living in the woods through the summer, and during the v-inter. When there are plenty of nuts and acorns. Fattened forty- two hogs this fall in an open pen, with peas given them on the ground, and water in troughs, in about eight weeks. Filled thirty-five barrels of 200 lbs. each with them; worth about 3/. 3s. per barrel. There are some good hogs a ff" miles from the Colonel's, yet the Berkshire breed would be an acquisition, as also Leicester sheep. Cows appear to bu suited to the woods, with a middle-sized carcass, and horns not very long. All their stock might be improved by proper selections. A few good blood stidlions, and two or "Hrec large cart horses would probably pay for importing. Colonel Talbot has a garden pretty well stocked with shrubs, fruit- trees, &c. in better order than most in America, yet not like a common one in England. There are cherries, plums, apri- cots, peaches, nectarines, gooseberries, currants, &c. also water, or musk melons, and cucumbers fine and plenty--cab- bages and other vegetables thrive very well. A patch of Swed- ish turnips (or ruta-baga) of a good sixe, notwithstanding the dry season. A few hUls of hops »t one corner of the gar- den look remarkably well; they are gathered at the beginning ef September. Thece is also a few 'uches of English cow- slips, but none wild in the woods. There is a species of the viuet in the fields, with less fragrance than the English ones. The Colonel has likewise extensive orchards ; some of the fiuit fine, yet the great proportion raised from apple- kernels, and remain ungrafted; although they bear well, their fruit is small and inferior to those grafted, except for eider. A great portion were suffered to bang too long on the trees, until the frosts came and spoiled them. The beautiful little humming-birds are numerous this season. Sowed wheat from the beginning to the end of September, Mid a little in October. A large flock of wild turkeys seen near the woods, and came to the farm-yard, where the men shot several of them ; one weighed 1 6lb. after being picked. There are plenty in the woods, of the same breed as the tame black turkey, and excellent eaUng. Cut the " corn" about the 20th September, which was much eaten by the racoons and black squirrels, who are extraordinarily r, OR r horses of the nag fund, rt in this country, and are a little more blood; four viio also get their living in , and during the \<-inter, J acorns. Fattened forty- I, with peas given them on ;h8, in about eight weeks. M. each with them ; worth are some good hogs a fi" I Berkshire breed would be heep. Cows appear to be le-sized carcass, and horns ight be improved by proper ttdlions, and two or "^rec pay for importing. Colonel stocked with shrubs, fruit- )8t in America, yet not like e are cherries, plums, apri- berries, currants, &c. tdso nbers fine and plenty-^cab- rerywell. A patch of Swed- id sixe, notwithstanding the at one corner of the gar- ra gathered at the beginning V -aches of English cow- There is a species of the ragrance than the English extensive orchards ; some gportion raised from apple- although they bear well, those grafted, except for ffered to bang too long on 3 and spoiled them. The ire numerous this season. : to the end of September, 1 flock of wild turkeys seen the farm-yard, where the weighed l£lb. after being I woods, of the same breed excellent eating. Cut the )r, which was much eaten lis, who are extraordinarily "'Wf^^ NO EMIOnATIOK. 0- numerous, troublesome, and destructive, from the scarcity of nuts and mast in the woods this season. Dec. 10.— The summer and fall has been remarkably dry and still continues. Many mill:, cannot griud for want of water. November was mild tisd pleasant, sometimes too warm, and the weather is yet mild. Been ploughing for peas and spring wheat, on the furrows of which they are to be sown next spring without more ploughing. The person with whom I left my trunks at Fort Erie, through a misun- derstanding, neglected to forward them, which caused me a journey ou foot about 140 miles, and back in a schooner as fa. as Long Point Bay, where I landed on the 1 8th of De- cember, on which day there came a heavy fall of snow and sharp frost. Long Point Bay, like most other bays on these Lakes, is formed by a sand bank, having a slight bend thirty or more miles down the Lake. This peninsula varies in width from a few rods to a mile or two ; much covered with fine timber, scrub pines and cedar only. There is a river (Big Creek) empties within the bay, rv ning through a considerable tract of sandy plains am ine woods. The frosts generally close the navigation of the takes earlier than this time, and the vessels are laid up in harbour. After leaving the schooner, passed through marshes half-leg deep in water and snow, with a Yankee who came in the schooner, with whom I left my trunks to be forwarded with his own. He was just returning from the States, with his mother and her family, to settle in Canada. Nearly one- half of the inhabitants of this province are from the States, or their descendants. All the Dutch came from there, and numbers are coming in yearly, on account of the cheapness and goodness of the land, and general healthiness of the climate. Stepped at a Dutchman's for the night, who hai a large frame house not entirely finished (houses in new settlements are often two or three years before completed). This industrious man has 200 acres of good land, which he says he paid 800 dollars for, by the skins of musk rats he killed in the marshes, and sold for their fine fu^s, at 2s. 3d. each ; they are getting much less numerous, through being continually hunted ; they are killed by thrusting a spear in their hills, which are like mole-hills. My host also keeps a seine, with which he takes a considerable quantity of white fish, and others, in the spring and all. White fish are much larger and finer eating than herrings, and sell at « 'J ! im 48 EMlOnATIOK, OR I about 27?. to 32s. per barrel of 200 pounds. In the marshes about the Bay grows a long coarse grass, which the settlers cut for hay at the fall of the year.when the water is low. Dec. 19. — Proceeded to Otter Creek, eighteen miles, chiefly through woods and by occasional beginnings of set- tlements. This will be a fine country, not only for ito dry and good soil, and consequent healthiness, but for iu excel- lent pines for lumber, and the fine streams for machinery to cut it up. Many saw mills are erected in the neighbour- hood, and in operation ; and several schooners employed transporting the lumber to Buffaloe, Cleaveland, and De- troit in the United States, where it generally fetches good prices, as there are but few good pineries on the American side of the Lake ; it is worth from 15s. to 35s. per thousand feet at the mill, and from 35s. to 3/. 10s. in the States after paying the duties (4s. 6d. per thousand feet, I believe). Dec. 20.— Left the Lakes, and pass through' the woods to Talbot Street again, passing a few solitary houses and a mill or two in my way. Stopped for the night at Wheeler's tavern (one of the first frame ones in the street). An Indian, from a neighbouring camp, came in with two " hams," (haunches) of venison, and a deer skin, having killed two deer and wounded three others that day, and killed nearly forty this season. The tavern keeper gave him one pint of whisky for each ham, and two pints for the skin, only ; and that nearly half water ; but liquors are their bane. On the Cat-fish Creek, between the Otter and Kettle Creek, a little back from the street, is a settlement of Quakers; there are several others about the province, one at the back of Fort Erie ; they are mostly from the State of Pensyl- vania. Dec. 21. — Arrived at Port Talbot again : snow here not half an inch deep, but sharpish frost. Salt selling at five dollars per barrel, or 22$. 6d. ; at Bu£faloe only 9s. Tea in the latter place 4s., here 6s. or more. Salt nearly all comes from the States, and as there is so much used by the universal practice and necessity of giving cattle, sheep, and horses, some every week or two, it, with tea and leather/ ' * Tea is non imported into Canada, direct from China, in an East India ship yearly, and is as cheap as in the States, which ha* stopped the smuggling from thence, and, in some instances, it is te- 200 pounds. la the ng coarse grass, which of the 7ear,when the Creek, eighteen miles, ional beginnings of set- :ry, not only for its dry lincss, but for its excei- treams for machinery to jcted in tlie neighbour- ral schooners employed e, Cleaveland, and De- : generally fetches good Ineries on the American 5s. to 35s. per thousand . 10s. in the States after and feet, I believe). iss through' the woods to slitary houses and a mill the night at Wheeler's 1 the street). An Indian, in with two " hams," skin, having killed two t day, and killed nearly )cr gave him one pint of nts for the skin, only ; lors are their bane. On iter and Kettle Creek, a settlement of Quakers; rovince, one at the back n the State of Pensyl- t again : snow here not )8t. Salt selling at five t Buffaloe only 9s. Tea more. Salt nearly all 3 is so much used by the giving catt'e, sheep, and t, with tea and leather/ a, direct from China, in an as in the States, which ha* , in some instances, it is le- , HO EMtOnATlO.V. 4fk, drains all the cash from this part of the province : there are importation duties on each, but they arc often evaded. There are salt springs in various parts of the province, but not worked for want of capital, and more for want of energy and encouragement. As yet there have been but few, very few, people of capital, settled in this country; certainly, I think, for want of knowing its superior advan- tages. If individuals will not, or are not able, to establish works of this kind, which are beneficial to the community at large, government would do well to offer premiums fbr the purpose. A premium was offered for the first paper mill, and one was soon erected, to the advantage of the proprietor as well as the public ; another, or two, have been erected since. The practice of giving salt to cattle is attri- buted to the freshness of the air, on account of the great distance of the ocean ; cattle and sheep are all fond of it, and will take it from the hand ; deer will go miles to the salt spring, or'" licks," as they are called. What seems to confirm the opinion of the freshness of the air is, that iron will hardly rust, as scythes, &c. are often hung in the open air from one year's end to another without receiving injury, merely tarnishing a little. Jan. 1, 1826. — Been a few very sharp frosty days, with a little snow, which has put the people all in motion, sleighing, cuttering, &c. A sleigh is drawn by two horses abreast, here called a " span;'' a cutter is drawn by one horse: ihey are both made alike as to shape; the box, or frame, is made light, and painted green r blue mostly, and some fancifully ; they are something in k...e form of a chariot, fixed on two runners in the shape of skates, made of wood, and shod with steel or cast iron. With the com- mencement of this year terminated the original regulations for granting land to settlers, and by an Order in Council new rules were set forth, to be continued for two years, which are noticed in the Appendix. The winters of Ca- nada arc a terror to Englishmen ; but though colder, they versed. With regard to leather, the province in a few years will be able to supply itself, as the country gets full of cattle ; and it Is be^ coming a practice for the farmers to kill one or more each, at the beginning of the winter, for their own use, besides others they sell. No new settlement can raise sufficient at first, as cows are then pre- served for breeders until old. Sole leather selling in Buffaloe at l3)r{. per pound, in York \Sld., and up in the West 22)(1. 3i-. lis if 50 EMIORATIOir, OK are more pleasant, and the inhabitants do not suffer so much from their severity ; their dryness has less effect on the human constitution, and even cattle, than a raw damp air several degrees warmer. Cattle require less fodder, and are much fed upon wheat and oat straw, which they eat up clean, and do well, if they get enough of it. The winter is the most lively part of the year; when there is about four inches snow with a frost, sleighing is universal, for business or pleasure, from one end of the province to the other. A span of good horses conveys two or three persons in a sleigh forty or fifty miles a day with case, and they often go sixty or seventy. With warm clothing, a fur cap, and a bear or buffalo skin over the back and feet, it is a pleasant and very easy way of travelling, enlivened by the numerous sleighs and the jingling of bells, which the horses are required to wear; in this season many of the Canadians have quite a military appearance. During the winter I took a journey to the Mill, at St. Thomas's, and to have tha horses shod, which will last the year, aa the roads do not wear them out quick. The days in length are more equal at all seasons, and the sun has more power. Some wolves made their appearance about the pre- mises, during the foggy nights, after a dead hog; the dogs retreated to the house much frightened, but they very rarely attack the human species. > Feb. 12. — It has been a steady frost the laat three or four weeks, so that the farmers have got their hauling pretty well done./ Last winter there was no sleighing, no soow, and hariHy any frost in the western part of the province. Feb. 26. — It has been quite moderate weather of late, and yesterday and to-day mild and thawing. March 5, — Foggy open weather, thermometer 48 ; snow nearly all gone, and ice breaking up along the lake shore. The noise caused by its breaking, when driven by a south wind on the shore, is like the various noises arising from the rattling of carriages, and the bustle of a large town on approaching it. In the depth of winter, in the sharpest weather, the trees, on the sun rising on them, snap and crack like the report of pistols in all directions, though there are no cracks to be seen. Grass and wheat begin to ahoot, hens lay, &c. Been sowing some Timothy grass seed, and the ground very tender, it being flat and not properly drained ; the water stands as long as there is any oil NO EMIOnATION. m labitantfl do not suffer so dryness has less effect on 1 cattle, than a raw damp !attle require less fodder, nd oat straw, which they y get enough of it. The ' the year; when there is ost, sleighing is universal, one end of the province i horses conveys two or or fifty miles a day with or seventy. With warm buffalo skin over the back ry easy way of travelling, 8 and the jingling of bells, wear ; in this season many litary appearance. During the Mill, at St. Thomas's, which will last the year, out quick. The days in ons, and the sun has more appearance about the pre- ifter a dead hog ; the dogs rightened, but they very frost the last three or four got their hauling pretty as no sleighing, no snow, irn part of the province, moderate weather of late, id thawing. er, thermometer 48 ; snow ig up along the lake shore. ;, when driven by a south arious noises arising from bustle of a large town on if winter, in the sharpest rising on them, snap and in all directions, though Grass and wheat begin to wing some Timothy grass der, it being flat and not ads as long as there is any frost to prevent it sinking into the sub soil. The frost lia« penetrated from three to five inches in open places, but in the woods hardly through the dead leaves. March 12. — Frost nearly out of the ground, and ice off the lake ; a good deal of rain ; foggy weather of late, the latter of which is not unusual. The sugar harvest now commences ; parties take large kettles and go out into the " sugar bush," (those parts of the wood which consist chiefly of the sugar maple tree). A notch is cut or a hole bored into each tree, and a small wooden trough placed to catch the sap, when it is carried in paib or drawn in barrels placed on an ox sled, to the " Camp," and evaporated by boiling down to the proper consistence, when it is run into various fanciful shapes in moulds, or stirred while coolings to make it into powder, like muscovado, for sale, or use in the family, selling from 4d. to 6}d. per pound, or 6d. to I5. New York currency (in which trade is generally done in the western part of the province), while in the eastern, it is in Halifax currency, 18s. sterling to the pound, or 5$. to the dollar. When it is a good season (sharp frosts at night and sun warm in the day), on an average each tree will yield twelve gallons or more of sap, producing, on evapo- ration, near three pounds of sugar ; some families making from 1000 to 3000 pounds in the season, if it be a good one, which lasts three or four weeks generally. Maple sugar is considered wholesome, and if well drained from molasses, is nearly equal in grain and taste to the West India Muscovado. March 19. — Been three nevere cold days this last week, and a snow storm, which made a little sleighing, but it is gone again, with rain and thunder. Employed in mending the seine for fishiifg, making ladders, drag-rakes, and a roller ; the two loiter are novelties, people ask if the last is to thresh grain. March 26. — Some frosty and cold, and some wet and mild days, and thunder, of late ; thermometer has been as high as temperate, and down below the freezing point. April 2. — Fine pleasant day, and has been pretty much so all the week, yet some frosty nights. Went to the village for whiskey, and for two new cast-iron ploughs (cist at Long Point Furnace, their price 21. each), and have the wrought-iron ploughshares laid, which are done only once a year, the ground oeing so free from stones and gravel the ^•H EMtORATION, OR I i irons wear but little. A new iron furnace, and forgo, esta- blUhing on Otter Creek, forty miikt below here, where good hands get thirteen dollars wages per month and board now, and fifteen dollars offered for the summer, payable ohielly in their casting ware.* The Colonel has his thrash- ing alt done by the flsil, but a great deal of the grain in (he province is trodden out by either horses or oxen. A man with four horses will tread out thirty bushels, or more, in a day, which does very well for grain that is used in the distillery, but is too dirty, though often done, for flour for the merchant, and baking in the family. When flail thrashing is hired, the thrasher gets one-tenth and his board ; and as the dryness of the climate makes it thrash well, one man often thrashes from eight to twelve, or even fifteen bushels in a day. Millers are allowed by law, for grinding, one-twelfth, it has been one-tenth I am told ; but some wise-acres, who thought it was not enough, petitioned for one-twelfth I April 8. — This week has been partly wet and cold, and partly fine and pleasant. Sowing spring wheat, with clover, and Timothy grass, on land that was ploughed last fall ; it harrowed pretty well considering the wet undrained state it was in. Ploughed with two yoke of oxen at each plough, yet most people use only one, except in brtinking up new land. Sheep began lambing. Pigeons, in great flocks, going out daily northward ; some people, with nets and decoy pigeons, will catch several hundreds in a day, when they sometimes take only their breasts, and salt them down in barrels, and make beds of their feathers. Turned the calves out of the yard to grass. The one, two, and three year old cattle go to the woods, and do very well on the wild leeks and onions, &c. Only the milch cows and hprses have any hay now, and the sheep a few oats ih the sheaf in a morning. April 15. — ^Two or three rather severe frosty days at the • Iron ore plentiful and good in various parts of the province, chiefly found in swamps, on sandy landj^and forges and furnaces are now so common that iron and cast ware Is plentiful, and moderately cheap. Wrought iron, which, if well made, is veiy tough and good, fetches its price, and mill machinery cast it about 2}ci. per pound. Stoves, pou, kettles, &c., at an advance in proportion to extra work- manship, &c. 7, OR 1 furnace, and forgo, csta- niiik.» bolow here, where ages per month and board for the summer, payable he Colonel has his thrash- great deal of the grain in cither horses or oxen. A >ut thirty bushels, or more, )r grain that is used in the ;h often done, for flour for the family. When flail r gets one-tenth and his le climate makes it thrash m eight to twelve, or even rs are allowed by law, for I one-tenth I am told ; but was not enough, petitioned n partly wet and cold, and ; spring wheat, with clover, ; was ploughed last fall ; it ; the wet undrained state it Le of oxen at each plough, xcept in breaking up new Pigeons, in great flocks, me people, with nets and 1 hundreds in a day, when ireasts, and salt them down heir feathers. Turned the The one, two, and three , and do very well on the )nly the milch cows uul lie sheep a few oats ib the 3r severe frosty days at the various parts of the province, id i s._and furies and furnaces arc m Is plentiful, and moderately made, is veiy tough and good, cast is about 2}t<. per pound, tee in proportion to extra work- no F.MIGnATIOW. 63 beginning of the week : one morning seventeen degrees, the next at thirteen only above zero, when the next it was as high as fifty-three ; these fluctuations arise by the change of the wind from north-west to south-west. I'ho severity of two nights killed several lambs, but have yet as many as ewes. Wolvta Inst night bit a calf's tail of}", and otherwise lacerated it behind, and would have killed it, had not the oxen been with them. Oxen will drive any number of wolves, and even throw down the strongest fence, with a strange noise to get at them, when a calf or a cow is attacked. Began sowing peas (a white sort) 2i bushels per acre, many people sow much less : the early mapl« and grey peas, I think, would answer much better here, as peas are mostly grown fur hogs only. There \i a kind of dwarf kidney beans (white) sown in the fields, and eaten in winter, which are very good, better than peas, and I think would thrive well in England. Pigeons very troublesome, both on the peas and spring wheat ; two br s employed to keep them off. Used the new roller on the wlieat and meadow, made entirely of wood, which answers well. Sowed a little Swedish turnip seed in the orchard. Cows troubled with the hollow horn, never heard of it in England. But the most destructive complaint incident to cows and oxen is the murrain : the attack being sudden they are often dead before found. There are two species of this disease, the bloody and the dry murrain. It appears to be an affection of the liver, or rather the blood, which is abstracted from the heart and blood vessels to the liver and bladder, and evacuated, while the animal lives, through the latter; and in the dry murrain the blood is nearly or quite dried up. When the complaint comes on, they have a dull sleepy appearance, and great pains and trembling as it proceeds. I thought it might be caused by the want of sufficient salt, as some cattle appear more subject to it than others; yet I am told there are numbers of cases, where cattle have as much salt os they will take. It is supposed to be caused by the sharp frosts : the remedy is to bore a hole with a gimblet into the horns, about th'oe inches from the head, when wind, and sometimes blood. vht'T ; out. April 22. — "Efak last week has been cold, anu u ' spring is later than usueu^; fields hardly look green yet. Spring wheat just coming np, only three weeks in the ground. Sowed oats, and moi-e ekiftr and Timothy g: <:>s, and pecked o I 54 EMIGRATION, on and levelled tlie land (a very common tiling in America); sowtd tbiee bushels of cats to the acre (more than is sown in general), with four or five pounds of clover, aiid as much Timothy grass. Timothy, or cat's-tail, as it is called in England, is not a good grass to sow with clover, as it is not tit to cut so scon by a fortnight, and throws up no latter or nftcrmath. Some of the better sorts of ryo grass, cocksfoot, or sweet scented vernal grass, I think, would be much better ; but they are not introduced into use here .It present, and little attention is paid to improvements. Clover, even by itself, answers admirably on a ckar tilth, and will Inst well in the ground for six or seven or more years, yet it is not sown by one farmer in half a dozen in this western part of the province ; even Colonel Talbot I am told never bad any but once before, which was suf- fered to staad till dead ripe (like all grass here) before cutting, when the cattle would not eat the hay, and it therefore was condemned. It is getting into general use at Long Point, and the seed sells from seven to eight dollars per bushel, or about 35$. per cwt. Ploughing up new land for the first time, that was chopped and cleared several years ago ; rough work, amongst roots, &c. Have sixty lambs dropped, which are strong aud thriving. Two sheep and lambs left out of the pen last night, by mistake, when either a dog or wolf killed one of the sheep. Many dogs I believe kill sheep hereabouts, through their being used to hunt n.coons and deer. Hauled the seiue yesterday in the lake, and caught nine roadkinonge (a large fish, very like a pike) from five to thirty pounds each. April 29. — There has been several days heavy rain, which is not uncommon, as, with the exception of thunder showers, it generally laBts for a longer time than in England. The fruits, wheat, and grass begin to bud ; and on hauling the seine every day or two, ve take a variety of fine fish in great numbers. Ma^ 6.— rThis has been a stormy week and mostly cold ; but one very warm day, thermometer 71 in my sleeping- yoom at noon ; generally from 48 to 62. Peas up, and pigeons done coming. Ploughing prevented by the water standing on the land, in what are termed cradle-holes, formed by trees being blown up by the roots, and are found only on a wet, or a loose soil. The spring later by three weeks than the last. Whitethorflf^ust budding ; grass grows N, on immoii thing in America); he acre (more thnn is sown nds of clover, aiid as ittuch at's-tail, as it is called in sow with clover, as it is not t, and throws up no latter letter sorts of ryo grass, al grass, I think, would be t introduced into use here 13 paid to improvements, admirably on a ckar tilth, 1 for six or seven or more 3 farmer in half a dozen in nee ; even Colonel Talbot tnce before, which was suf- like all grass here) before 1 not eat the hay, and it getting into general use at from seven to eight dollars t. Ploughing up new land lopped and cleared several ^8t roots, &c. Have sixty ^ and thriving. Two sheep )t night, by mistake, when of the sheep. Many dogs through their being used to '. the seine yesterday in the ge (a large fish, very like a iach. several days heavy rain, h the exception of thunder mger time than in England, pn to bud ; and on hauling akc a variety of fine fish in rniy week and mostly cold ; lomcter 71 in my sleeping- 48 to 62. Peas up, and ng prevented by the water t are termed cradle-holes, by the roots, and are found The spring later by three n^st budding ; grass grows MO EMIGRATION. 55 but little ; cattle live hard ; working oxen eat much corn ; sheep done lambing ; heard the wolves howl last night in the woods for the first time. May 13. — A warm growing week ; thermometer 05 this morning, at noon 81. Vegetation grovs fust, and the woods begin to assume the livery of spring. Tue v.ind has taken its fine weather summer courses, blowing oft' land at nights, and oflF the lake at days, which tempers and purifier the atmosphere. Sent 200 bushels of wheat to thu " still," to have seven quarts of whisky per bushel for it ; three, to three and a half gallons are made from a busliel of wheat, corn, or rye. Potatoes and pumpkins can bo distilled, but are seldom used. May 20.— A warm and dry week, except a thunder storm, which. cooled the air. Finished sowing oats, and been ploughing for corn. There is little peach and apple b'ossoin this season, but other fruits set well ; and a bed of asparagus in Colonel Talbot's garden is very good. The woods abound with the notes of the well-known bird " whip-poar-will," and many others which, though not harmonious, aie ciieer- ful; the muskitoes are numerous in and about the woods, but none in the houses, or on the clearings. May 27. — Dry, warm weather ; vegetation wants rain ; thermometer has varied from 60 to 75. Planted the corn ; which is done thus : after ploughing and well harrowing the ground, parallel furrows are run by the plough three or four feet asunder, straight across the field, and sometimes inter- sected ; when the planter, with a little bag of corn before him, (something like bean-setters in England), and a hoe, proceeds along these furrows, and drops, at from three to four feet apart, two, three, or four grains of the corn in one place, and slightly covers them with the hoe ; some prefer ' planting in the furrows, others between them, according to the dryness of the soil, or the season. The quantity of seed required is only about one peck per acre ; corn is sometimes planted on the furrow (or sod, as it is here called) of new ploughed grass land, and does very well. Washed lb) sheep in the creek, and ploughed ground for potatoes. Tl 1 Colonel has been to the village of St. Thomas, to the Anni- versary Dinner held in honour of himself in establishing the " Talbot Settlement :" it is generally well attended by store- keepers, and people of various trades and callings, as well as the wore respectable farmers. Milk will now hardly keep tmsaffgiKaticaasm 56 VMlOnAttOV, OR ^IH sweet some dajs from morning to night, iirou^^h having a bad " milk- house" (dairy) situated abovo ground and with- out shade. June 4. — The last two days foggy, but no rain, which is wanted. This is " training day," when the militia meei at appointed stations near home, throughout the province, to be trained, some with guns and some without. I need not say they learn but little, when the reader is informed this is the only day in the year they meet, and then not half of ^hem, perhaps ; and nearly one half their officers know as little of military exercise as themselves : it is merely a '* frolic" for the youngsters ; nor is it necessaiy to train, except in prospect of a war speedily coming on. All males between the ages of eighteen and sixty, with few exceptions, are subject to the militia duties. Those between the ages of eighteen and forty-five only are called out in ordinary cases. Some Indian corn coming up, and some yet dry in the ground for want of rain ; oats up, and grow apace ; peas on the bottom or meadow land look well ; those on the uplands too dry. Finished planting potatoes, and hoed the first set ones: they are planted thus; being cut as in England; three or four of these cuttings are dropped together in one place, then the soil hoed over them into a " hill," 2 J feet apart each way. This is the only method that can be used on new cleared land among the stumps, and before it is ploughed ; but this method is adhered to when there are no stumps, or necessity for it, which I think an injudioibus practice. June 5. — Sheared the sheep to-day ; the Canadiaitf^ear the belly and neck, and then tie the sheeps' legs, ah^^ear along them, or rather any, or every way, and are not nice about their appearance when finished. One Canadian sheared near fifty. The Canadians are generally active, or smart as they term it, in which they pride themselves, and generally at work strive to outdo each other in expertness ; but they do not like long, and steady hard work, yet at times submit it, and in general are able to endure it. Castrated the ale lambs, and cut all their tails at the time of shearing. June 6. — The thermometer to-day 81: it has been as high here once before this season ; but by a Montreal paper I see it has been at 88 there some time ago. Clover get- ting on the head. I have found some bunches of vernal* grass, 9nd some of cocksfoot (tfa« latter here termed orchard- Off NO EMIGRATION. 57 > night, iiroui^h having a [1 abovo ground and with- jgy, but no rain, which is when the militia meet at ughout the province, to be without. I need not say der is informod this is the nd then not half of them, sir officers know as little !S : it is merely a '• frolic" essaiy to train, except in : on. AH males between with few exceptions, are hose between the ages of illed out in ordinary cases, and some yet dry in the and grow apace ; peas on veil ; those on the uplands les, and hoed the first set eing cut as in England ; •e dropped together in one hem into a " hill," 2| feet y method that can be used i stumps, and before it is lered to when there are no :h I think an injudioibus -day ; the CanadmiMN#ear he sheeps' legs, an'^^ear 'ery way, and are not nice led. One Canadian sheared jnerally active, or smart as themselves, and generally !r in expertness ; but they work, yet at times submit endure it. Castrated the I at the time of shearing. >-day 8 1 : it has been as ; but by a Montreal paper ne time ago. Clover get- some bunches of vernaU latter here termed orchard- j^rass), the seed of which was brought from England some years ago, and scattered in tlio fivlds ; both of which look well, particularly the former. The Colonel has also a bunch or two of good sainfoin in his garden. Some vessels of late seen sailing up the Lake for the first time this season. June 10. — ^I'he last has proved a very hot week ; but a thunder storm last night has cooled the air : thernio- lueter to-day 68, but has been 75 and ujjwards all the week. Not quite enough rain for potatoes and corn, but it has done all other things good: winter wheat looks well, and is coming on the ear. Began cutting clover to-day j a fair crop, but sown rather too thin on the ground (only two or three pounds per acre). The blossoms of the wild grapes, growing about the fences, perfume the air with their pleasant odour ; something like mignionette. Have twenty cow? calved, and milk plenty. June io. — Some rain and a cool week : thermometer h'i to 67. Finished mowing the clover ; some of it laid or lodged — about 25 cwt. per acre : got it up and stacked it ; in which we mixed salt, as nn experiment. Hay and grain are carried together, on waggons or sleds (the latter without wheels), which is properly called hauling. Waggon wheels are strong and light, the tire being an entire ring, which strengthens the wheel ; the body (or box, as it is called, and properly, as it is nothing but four Iwnrds fastened together by hooks or pins, in a long square form) can be put on or taken oiF at pleasure : a kind of frame, not much unlike an open sheep crib, is put on for carrying. Two young men, just arrived from England, came and hired themselves to the Colonel at twenty shillings per month, to live in the house and to work on the farm. June 24. — Been plenty of rain of late. Yesterday a thunder storm hung nearly the v>hoIe day in one position, about two miles off; it thundered nnd rained all the timej yet no ruin with us. July 1. — The weather fine and temperate, with little rain. Fruit and vegetables ripen well, and are plentify As the month advanced, some hot days in successiif during which the harvest was got in j the Timothy gra? pretty good, but the Indian, or wild grass of the pea species, a poor crop to mow. In foddering cattle in winter no hay knives are used, generally ; but the top of the stuck thrown off until all used; being but litde or no rain " g2 .% 58 EVtORATION, OK if in winter, it does not take any dumage. Col. Talbot has just received a sample of long wool from Lincolnshire, and intends procuring some of tiiat breed of sheep, as he says government hnve removed all restrictions respecting the exportation of sheep. I think the Leicester sheep' better adapted to this county in every respect, they are not so liable to get entangled in the woods with their wool, or to get cast on their backs, requiring less food and a shorter pasture, and being more active to leap logs, &c. and yet a sufficient length of wool ; but southdowns, with regard to subsistence, would do better than either, ai.'' perhaps in some other respect (a few at least), as finer wool is getting more in request. Wool is from Is. Hd. to 3s. 3d. per pound, if sold; but the seitlers either send it to B carding machine (one or more of which are to be found in every district of the county) to be carded, for which twopence or threepence per pound is charged, and then spun at home by the families, and perhaps wove, as many farmers keep a loom in the house ; or else it is sent to tbe little factors to be made into cloth, for coats, trowsers, &c. ; one half of the cloth produced from the wool is re- tained for making, the other is returned, which part is ge- nerally in rather n greater proportion than one yard of cloth to two pounds of wool. Is it not singular and pecu- liar to this county, that sheep never have the scab, or the maggot } nor have I heard of any rutting ! Still it is not properly a sheep country, till more cleared, except on the plains, and there but few are kept. Generally, through the new settled parts of the province, each farmer has from five or six to twenty or thirty, and in some instance to fifty or sixty, but rarely more. July 2'Z. — Cradling the wheat, and reaping that which has b^n knocked down with the rains. Peas, oats, and spring wheat nearly ripe. July 29. — A cool week : thermometer about 70 — morn- ings rather cold ; winds north-west at night, and south ily in the days. Finished cutting and getting up the winter leat } some of i^ a large crop, thirty or more bushels per acre. Cradling the oats. The Canadians aW^xpert at cradling, and will do, for a short time, from tvMU> three, or even four acres per day, according to the weigK of the crop, one person tying up into sheaves after them. August 5.— 'Aaoihtt mild week; yesterday and to-day OR imnge. Col. Talbot has wool from Lincolnshire, lat breed of sheep, as he II restrictions respecting ink the Leicester sheep' ?ery respect, they are not roods with their wool, or |uiring less food and a active to leap logs, &c. il ; but southdowns, with better than either, ai.^' a few at least), as finer Wool is from Is. Ijrf. to ! settlers cither send it to )f which are to be found to be carded, for which id is charged, and then I perhaps wove, as many Be ; or else it is sent to :loth, for coats, trowsers, ced from the wool is re- turned, which part is ge- irtion than one yard of it not singular and pecu- ver have the scab, or the r rutting ! Still it is not e cleared, except on the ;pt. Generally, through ice, each farmer has from in some instance to fifty and reaping that which ! rains. Peas, oats, and ometer about 70 — morn- est at night, and south and getting up the winter , thirty or more bushels : Canadians aS^xpert at time, from tvMJU) three, ling to the weiflk of the Slaves after them. (; yesterday and to-day MO BMIOHATtOV. 5ft the hottest : thermometer at noon 82, when a short but sharp thunder gust came on, and the thermometer sunk immediately. Cut spring wheat and housed it j not good, too thick on the ground — two bushels and a half per acre sown. I believe the Talavera wheat would he an excellent spring wheat, as it generally answers best in warm seasons in England. Thnusamh of ?ong large flies, similar to the English dragon fly, but a little smaller, are flying about the fields ; they arc called rousquito hawks, on account of their killing and living on those insects. August 12. — Very hot, and no wind: thermometer 83} two hot days preceding. At the beginning of the week, the thermometer was at 5? only. Hooked and stacked the peas ; those growing on the bottoms or Hats, a very heavy crop, some of the straw from six to nine feet long, and well podded. Cutting a second crop of clover, about 23 cwt. per acre ; it would have been an excellent crop for seed, it was so well headed. Millions of flies (called May flies in England, but heVe June flies) along the lake shore, and to half a mile distance, smothering every thing, they are so numerous : it is said thay only live one day, when they settle on something in the evening and die ; the next morning a young one bursts out of tii^ old one's skin. August 19. — Il has been a hot week : thermometer ranging from 7^ to 85 ; no rain, but showeis flying about. Stacked the second crop of clover. Clover only wants once turning- in the swati), if the crop is large, to make into hay; and if light, and grass, none at all, only laying a day or two, and then got together into rows and stacked. The beavere havt eat down fcveral small trees, some inches diameter, in the last year.nlong lh<" side of the Cole Creek: they are a small sort, and but few of tiiem left now. August 26. — From this date to the second week in Sep- tember was remarkably fine weather, the thermometer ranging between 58 and 76, and all agricultural business went on as well as could be desired. Near the creeks and woody swamps the cattle are annoyed by large flies, which^ sting them so severely as to draw blood. Pigeons agaltf? made their appearance in large flocks, as also wild turkeys ; partridges, larger than the English breed, and quails, less than those of Europe, are also numerous. The Canadian farmers, ia general, never thatch their grain ; all kinds are tied up into sheaves, and made into small stacks, with the :&■ Ui 60 EMIORATtOV, OR middle kept full, the butts out and iuc.'ining dov r: ,vards, to shoot the rain; but I scircely ••evd ndd, it ia infSlctual to keep it dry and from sproU'ng ; /ui it ie 'jut oi" lifle con- sequence while they use it tliamiselves, or in tit it ' -llery ; but the Wciiland Cunal will iiJuce rsv.n i<> . use v .'; ' wheat for c iporttifion, uud tiieu it vill bo csstatially t.iiOo.sary to thatch a»' i preserve the grair in the best possible order. Septsmhei- 9. — Started on ;oot westward 'o Bear Creek, thirty snili ;, to look at a lot of land, in company with a neighbour who is going there to .settle. On our ro ,1 some settlers were clearing the f'reet throug's a <,v,-c mile ;wamp. This is not u s;ood systt^ai, to give out lauds fo;- tho settlors to clear the public 'oads, as the p'vamp.^ 'xrk nov?r tiken up; therefore the roat^^. rtmain uuipened. >, the ot!i<>r settlors near must go and clear tUam, as v ell as their oua ; and as nine out of ten of the lir^t i^cttlors in the woods have only their own bodily exertions to depend on, they find enough to do the first year or two to build a house and barn, and clear a few acres to grow something to live on, without cut- ting and clearing public roads. Crossed from Talbot Street to the " Big-bend" of the river Thames, eight miles through an. entire wilderness, [laving only a slight track, owned by Colonel Talbot : there aie numerous such blockades of wild uncultivated land in the }'rovince, which have been like fet- ters to the country's prosperity. A most judicious tax has since been laid on such ivild lands, although violently op- posed by the pretended friends of the people. This tax ought to be high enough on those wild lands that are situated in townships partially settled, to 2ompel their own- ers to either improve, or c-iM them to those who would, which is nothing but just. The settlor, as he improves his own land, has the more taxes to pay, at the same time he is enhancing the valuo of this wild land, without any cost or trouble to the owners. The river Thames is a fine stream, about thirty or forty yards wide, never overflowing, confined in lanks ten or fifteen feet high, out of which, every little way, issue numerous fiue springs. It is navigable for schooners for twenty or thirty miles from its mouth, and as far again for boats, in the spring. The flats, which in some places are extensive, are the richest land in the province ; the soil in some parts a loamy fat clay, covered by a rich black mould, very similar to the fertile Vale of Aylesbury in BuckinghaiQf^ire ; in other places a sandy or gravelly loam, (OR 1 ineiin'tig dov r; .vards, to I'd >)dd, it is irif ii'uctual to ut it IB ?)ut of liifle con- pjves, or in tl.t it ' "llery ; irv.a i:< . dse v , ; ' wheat so csstatiall}' t.coo.sary to he best possible order. westward *o Bear Creek, land, in company with a !tlle. On our ro I some roug'f a ivic mile ;wamp. out iauda foi- the settlors amp.' 'xrh nevir tiken up; sned. >, the ot!i(>r settlors ell as their ouu ; and as r3 in the woods have only nd on, they find enough lild a house and barn, and ig to live on, without cut- rossed from Talbot Street ames, eight miles through a slight track, owned by us such blockades of wild which have been like fut- A most judicious tax has ds, although violently op- of the people. This tax lose wild lands that are led, to 2ompel their own- sm to those who would, uttlor, as he improves his >y, at the same time he is land, without any cost or rharoes is a fine stream, ever overflowing, confined mt of which, every little gs. It is navigable for 33 from itB mouth, and as The flats, which in some est land in the province ; t clay, covered by a rich rrtile Vale of Aylesbury in a sandy or gravelly loam, KO RMIGBATIOy. 61 dry, rich, and well watered with springs. In passing through a new settlement in the woods, the traveller is wel- comed in every house ; but perhaps he may have occa- sionally to sleep on a straw bed, on the floor before the fire, with a blanket or two over him, and in the same room the whole of the family live and sleep, perhaps the only one in the house ; fur eating, he has bread, or cake, and butter and potatoes, or " muBi-dnu-milk," if for supper (ground Indian corn boiled in water to the consistence of hasty pud- ding, then eaten with cold milk). It is the favourite dish, and most people are fond of it, from its wholesomeness and lightness, as a supper meal. Indian meal is also sometimes made into cakes, which are called Johnny cakes, — and per- haps some meat; this is the living generally of the first settling for a year or two, by those who bring little other property into the woods Y it their own hands, with health and strength ; and with these they appear the most independent and contented people in the world, as " \o contiguous palace rears its head. To shame the meanness of their humble shed ; At night returning, eveiy labour sped, They sit them down the monarchs of the shed." At this time of the year the water in the river is mostly low, and may be crossed at the rapids with high boots. Pass down the river along the road leading from the head of Lake Ontario, through Oxford, Westminster, and Dela- ware, to Sandwich, above the head of Lake Erie ; also over the site and ruins of the late Moravian Indian village, and got some apples from one of their small orchards ; some In- dian boys there, one of whom shewed his dexterity by shooting single apples from the trees with his bow and arrows. The Moravian village was destroyed in the war by the» American Indians, and has since been built on t\m opposite side of the river. It is said Indians never bttiMwon the spot where one has been destroyed, thinking it would be opposing the Great Spirit, as he, they suy, would not have suffered it to have been destroyed if in the right place. These Moravian Indians are civilized, live in houses, and cultivate as much land and raise as much stock as the white settlors. Speak pretty good English, and assume, in part at least, the dress and manners of the l||Hte settlors/ PR mA , ■ 62 EMIORATION, OR and by whom many are much trusted and esteemed. A minister of the Moravian persuasion is settled among them. September 10. — Cross over from the river at Cornwall Mill, where we slept last night, to Hear Creek, five miles, mostly dry good land, yet some swamps. The llatneus of this western part of the province is the cause of the swamps : a greater part of them ara made by tlic beavers forming dams across narrow water courses, between two little risings of the ground, thereby backing the water over large pieces of level land alwve them, which in many places has destroyed the trees, and left un open prarie, or wet meadow, which, generally, would be eaiiily drained by merely cutting through these beaver dams. There is a string of swamps on each sidf of the river Thames in many places, between the Hats and the rising ground, where the water springs out. To drain these, some general plan ought to be adopted, not only to recover the rich land now covered with stagnant water, but to destroy the chief, if not the only cause of agues, so prevalent in this neigli- bourhood. Bear Creek is a fine stream of clear water, running parallel with, and about six or eight miles from the Thames, and about two-thirds of its size, and is navi- gable nearly as far up as that stream from Lake St. Clair, into which they both empty. The land on .Bear Creek in the township of Zon, or Zone, are now settling j and, ge- iierally, is of an excellent quality and dry, not so ckyey as on the river flats. There is in the bottom of the creek, in many |)laces, a hard slaty rock, some of whiti will burn, and is supposed to cover u bed of coal. There is some lime stone also. In one of the shallow rapids, I saw two large stones of the size of millstonts, cnabedded in the bot- tom of the creek, perfectly round, and flat on the upper surface j but I believe rounded ou he other side, with a 'gproovew^|Jhe upper sides u/ each, within an incli of the rim aUMpW, about the breadth and depth of those made in the mnistones; but no others. It is evident tliey huve been formed by human hands ; but for what purpose I cannot tell, except for grinding grain. The Indians camp much on the creek, and say it is the best iishing and hunting place they lately had, and are sorry they have sold it. There is ■< tail of water in this creek in the township of Zone, oi^.. or seven feet. Jt is an excellent plat for m. f, OR rusted and esteemed. A uasion is settled among oin the river at CornwftU o Hear Creek, (ive miles, iwamps. Tlie llatiieus of nee is the cause of the are made hy tlic beavers er courses, between two ereby backing the water ove them, which in many id left an open prarie, or k'ould be easily drained by eaver dams. There is a the river Thames in many rising ground, where the these, some general plan recover the rich land now It to destroy the chief, if prevalent in this neigh- e stream of clear water, t six or eight miles from Is of its size, and is navi- eam from Lake St. Clair, 'he land on .Bear Creek in re now settling j and, ge- and dry, not so clayey as lie bottom of the creek, in some of whicl will burn, . of coal. There is some shallow rapids, I saw two nes, embedded in the bot> nd, and fiat on the upper ou he other side, with a icb, within un incli of the and depth of those made It is evident they have but for what purpose I ;ruin. The Indians camp is the best iishing and i are sorry they have sold this creek in the township t is an excellent plat for SO EMIGRATION. 63 tiiiils, but its neighbourhood is as yet unsettled. The Indians are just returned from Sandwich, whither they had been to receive their annual gifts or presents from govern- ment, of blankets, guns, knives, tomohav .,&c. &c. which are generally bartered immediately for a little whisky, &c. The timber on the flats of the Creeks is very tall and straight, with little underbrush, indicating the richness of the land. Two kinds of ash timber here I had not seen before, called blue and hoop-ash ; both very tough, and the latter well adapted for making hoops, whence it derives its name. I am told there are very fine large hops growing hereabouts. As beer is coming into use hops can be culti- vated to advantage, as they thrive remarkably well ; and Jome raised in the province sell from lOd. to 2s. per pound. Corn is seven or eight feet high, and pumpkins (Americans call them punkins) : o very large, nearly as much as a man can carry. Pumpk.us are cut in ehces, and dried, for making pics in winter; they are also excellent for fattening cattle and milch cows in winter, superior I think to any turnips, and give beef a fine golden colour; they must be preserved in cellars from the frost. They are generally sown among the Indian corn, and answer very well, as they do not injure, nor are injured by it. Saw six acres of new cleared ground, with its first crop on ; viz. corn, oats, peas, kidney beans, turnips, cabbages, cucumbers, melons, and tobacco, and all very fine. The owner said this first crop would pay for clearing the land, and all other expenses attending the crop. Tobacco is becoming quite a staple ar- ticle of produce in these western parts of the province. I am told there are several hundred acres of land in tobacco towards Amherstburgh this season : while it continues to be used so generally, and I fear excessively, it will pay the cultivator much better than any grain crop. Land here adapted for it (rich sand or loam; producing from eieht bo^ fifteen cwt. per acre, and selling to the raerchaiirfa^froni 1/. to 1/. 12s. or II. 15s. per cwt. according to ^S^ and detnand at home. Black slaves, who have run away from their masters in Kentucky, arrive in Canada almost weekly (where they are free), and work at raising tobacco; I believe they introduced the practice. One person will attend, and manage the whole process of four acres, planting,' hoeing, budding, &c. during the summer. Called on a re- spectable family from Hertfordshire ; I mean in orderly, m i'.MIOR.'tTIOH, Oa honest, decent, industrious, and therefore an improving family. They had resided several years in the States, from whonco they came to this place. Crossed the Thames again, and passed down it a few miles ; some (ino cleared farms hereabouts, with the stumps of the trees rooted out, but are, apparently, managed in a slovenly manner. They t^long chieSy to merchants in Sandwich, and elsewhere, sod are let avt in shares; the owners getting one-third, and the tenant two-thirds of the grain " raised" (grown) thereon: the hcusos and barns are also in a dilapidated state. Some good apple and peach orchards, which bear the finest fruit in the couitry ; ungrafted apples finer than hair the grafted ones in England. Cider from 4s. 6d. to 9s. per barrel ; or take two empty barrels at the time of cider making, you have one of them back full. An English farmer of property has been about here lately, looking out a cleared farm to purchase. Old cleared farms, with houses Hud barns, on the flats, worth from 36«, to 21. per acre. A lot of uncleared land on Bear Creek Flats was lately sold for 9s. per acre, and generally can be bought for ready money at 4s. or 5s. per acre. Passed a man digging a mill race at the side of a rapid in the river, and a large quantity of timber cut out just by for the mill; he is doing it all himself, having no money to hire with, and his neighlionrs lardy in helping him ; as he told me he had expected tburteen or fifteen the day before. It is a very general-practice for sett!o's in the new parts help- ing, and oven in some instances doing the whole of the work, in making mill dams, for something to eat and drink only while doing it. Although the land is rich enough for any- thing, yet there ia nothing sown but wheat, corn, and oats, and a few peas : no clover, or very iitdo at least, which I am confident would grow in the greatest luxuriance ; wheat gften several years successively, then without sowing iiny g|if«8S BMkd^i it remains in its rough state, when up comes the wild gpMMtnd lies a few years, when it is again ploughed for the tafna deteriorating rotation. There appears no energy in the people for improvement ; a small couch or twitch grass spreads in these ill-managed farms, which might with little trouble be eradicated. Some of the great wheat farmers half starve their cattle in winter, as they are too idle to gat any bay ; and although government have offered a premium cf 3d/. to thfliB who may grow the mofet hemp on not less than , oa KO EMIOUATIOX. 65 theroforo an improving rai yenrs in the States, ice. Crosscil the Thames miles ; some tino cleared ig of the trees rooted out, I slovenly manner. They Sandwich, and elsewhere, iwners getting one-third, grain " raised" (grown) are also in a dilapidated Bch orchards, which bear ngrafled apples finer than 1. Cider from 4j. 6d. to )ty barrels at the time of )f them back full. An J been about here lately, ■chase. Old cleared farms, e flats, worth from 35s. lar'^d land on Bear Creek acre, and generally can be or 5s. per acre. Passed Lhe side of a rapid in the ibor cut out just by for the having no money to hire n helping him ; as h« told fifteen the day before. It lo's in the new parts hclp- oing the whole of the work, hing to eat and drink only and is rich enough for any- but wheat, corn, and oats, rery little at least, which I greatest luxuriance ; wheat then without sowing any jli state, when up comes the jen it is again ploughed for There appears no energy small couch or twitch grasa ms, which might with little he great wheat farmers half they are too idle to g«t any have offered a premioin of moftt hemp on not lew than live acres, (and it would thrive Hdminibly), no person has hitherto claimed this bounty. But tlin government have been deemed dilatory in their proceedings, and the people Hiipinc, BO that the upper part of the province ha.'* been out ot die reach of trade or commerce ; and what little hns been carried on across the lines, has been mostly done by Indian smugglers, who are not annoyed by the custom-house offi- cers. It is not unlikely that thcWelland Canal may cause a great improvement. September 12. — Crossed the river to Talbot Street, fif- teen miles of wood, o a small settlement on Howard Ilidgc, which is a rich dry oil, well watered and healthy; but n canal or good road is wanted from hen^e to Rondeau, or Round O as it is called, a distance of sixteen miles, which Mould save the present route often times of that distance to n market for produce. Lake Erie has few natural harbours, and as yet but few are made. I have arrived once more at Clear Creek, where there are mills standing many yeais unfinished, one belongs to i\ land-surveyor ; and that class ^'ct possession of the best lands, which they will not part with at any reasonable rate, 'i'here are mills enough, but tiiey are frequently stopped for want of water, and gri»t must then be carried thirty miles to be ground, while there are probably plenty of springs in the immediate neighbour- hood without mills, but they are in many cases on the government reserves for the crown and clergy. Overtook a " nigger" and his boy, just come from Kentucky, where he took French leave of his master, and brought a horse, which he sold near Detroit. There are some hundreds of these people settled at Sandwich and Amherstburg, who are formed into a volunteer militia corps, and trained to arms. Sept. 16. — Warm of late, the two last nights rather cold. This morning the thermometer 5.3, and at noon at 71. Cut the corn and set it up into shocks without being bouMd into shtaves. The method of doing it is thus : with either a sharp short-handled hoe, or a sickle, in one hand, you put the other round one bunch, or what grows on one hill, and chop it off close to the ground, when it is set up into shocks, of two or three armfuls together, and a piece of a stem wrapped round the top to prevent tlieir being blown down ; after having stood a week or two, they are dragged round a centre, and the husks stripped from the ears by people sitting in a circle; the husks are thrown in a hea;< u -**- 6G EMIORATION, OR in the miiMle, nnd iho stalks tied into slieavcs and H3;iiiii set into shocks, to remain till quite dry before beinj; stacked for fodder. The ears are picked up in baskets made fur the purpose, put intm waggons, and drawn to cribs mado of small sapling poles, twelve or fourteen feet long, ami notched and crossed at the ends by short ones, four or fivo feet long, laid alternately to tlio height of six or seven feet, and covered over with slabs rent out of logs, and laid with sufficient inclination one way to shoot off the rain. The corn oars are generally shelled by hand, but a much more expe- ditions way is to thrash them on a barn floor, with a flail ; one person will thrash twenty-five bushels in a day, and a thrashing machine 500 or more. There are no thrashing machines in the western part of tho province, but I have heard of a few at the east. There are dressing-machines (mills they aro hero called) in general use. Should emi- grants bring out thrashing machines, I «vould recommend two-horse portable ones, as more adapted to this country than larger; but perhaps miniature models would be better, as cnstings are easily procured, moderately cheap, and to have the frame-work done on the spot would be a much less expense. I sowed last May about a rood of ground with three pecks of Indian corn as an experiment, to stand for hay, which was cut and carried in July. Cattle are very fond of it, and in seasons when fodder and hay are likely to be scarce, it might be sown to advantage, any timo in June ; but the great quanJity of saccharine juice the stalks contain, requires considerable time to dry it sufficiently for stack- ing, to prevent too much heat, or moulding. The produce would be, on good land, I think, three or four tons per acre : it leaves the ground in excell -nt order for wheat, and ( tliink it might be sown for that purpose to advantage, or for soiling hogs and cattle, in England. Since my return I J^ve seen some corn that has ripened in England, and though it is small in tho ear compared with what it is in America, and evidently will not answer as a seed crop, yet, for the above purpose, and the green ears for boiling, it will answer very well ; boiled green ears, with butter as a sauce, or with meat, are considered a delicacy by some. Corn is a very useful article, both in the family, and for feeding hogs and oxen, and although it requires con- siderable attention and trouble in hoeing, and ploughing between the rows, husking, &c. ; jet these processesleave 1^! <, OR (1 into sitcavc!! and Hs;iiiii quite dry before beiiij; )icked up in baskets niudc , and drawn to cribo inadn ■ fourteen feet long, and by short ones, four or fivo eight of six or seven feet, mt of logs, and laid with cot ofF the rain. The corn I, but a much more expe- t a barn floor, with a flail ; ve bushels in a day, and a There are no thrashing f the province, but I have lero are dressing-machines general use. Should emi- lines, I would recommend e adapted to this country re models would be better, , moderately cheap, and he spot would be a much r about a rood of ground ts an experiment, to stand ; in July. Cattle are very der and hay are likely to be ntago, any timo in June ; ne juice the stalks contain, ' it sufhciently for stack- r moulding. The produce hree or four tons per acre : It order for wheat, and ( urpose to advantage, or for igland. Since my return ripened in England, and mpared with what it is in answer ns a seed crop, the green ears for boiling, i green ears, with butter considered a delicacy by :lo, both in the family, and although it requires con- in hoeing, and ploughing ; ) et these processesleave NO EMIGUATIOX. r,7 the land in excellent condition for wheat, or for oats, to sow clover with ; and the husking may, I have no doubt, be rendered unnecessary, by letting it stand till porfocdy ripe nnd dry, when the car with the husk may bn Htripped from the stalk ; tiie latter may be then cut and tied into shcaveH and shocked, and the former carted directly to cribs till wanted to thrash; it is said they will not keep in the hu.4k, but if carried quite dry, and put into narrow cribs, I am confident they will. September 23. — We had a very smart clap of thunder, with some rain, whicl. improved vegetation ; and by this period, fruits have all ripened, and there are considerable qunniitics of wild grapes, called thorn plumbs, the size of a bullace : the orchard produces about 200 bushels of apples, and the potatoes are plentiful, many being raited for ex- portation. October 1. — A beautiful day, with a serene sky and still air; ami the gullies and ravines covered with flowers the most beautiful ; the shumac, a tender shrub, growing ten feet high. There are also great quantities of nuts, which prevents the corn being devoured by the racoons, squirrels, &c. and keeps the hogs in good order for the winter. October 8. — Very fine week : thermometer this morning 45, at noon 60, about which it has been all the week, with a slight frost one morning. Killing beef for the winter ; ploughing for spring ; digging potatoes, &c. Potatoes, when dug, are thrown into heaps, on the level ground, about ten to thirty bushels in each ; covered first with a coat of straw, and then the dirt is shovelled up all round and thrown upon them, about six inches thick. One of the men while digging found two heads of Indian arrows, made of flint, on the site of an ancient Indian village, where pieces of coarse earthernware, stone tobacco-pipe bowls, &c. are often discovered. 68 EMIGRATION, OR I CHAPTER VF. DEPARTURE FROM tOLONEI, TALBOt's — ROAD MAKING, AWD A SETTLRR's KSTABMSIIMENT DESCRIBED — CAPA- BILITIES OF THE COUNTRY, AND MANNERS OF THE RESIDENTS NOTICED — ARRIVAL AT ANCA8T1 , ANT JOURNEY TO YORK. Oct. 14. — Some rain, but generally fine and pleasant through the week ; thermometer varying from 55 to 63. Grass grows, and looks like spring, but nuts and leaves begin to drop from the trees. Employed husking corn ; the neighbours round used to come for a bushel of apples per day and victuals, but none came this year, as apples are be> come more plentiful and cheaper. Oct. 2 1 . — ^There has been one or two frosty mornings this last week, but days warm ; thermometer 50. Leaves mostly oflf the trees, exccj^t the beech and a few others. By the newspapers I learn that the wheat sent from this couu' try tc England is not in good condition, but very foul, which is in no degree surprising, when the i^lkod of cultivation and stacking I have described is consicflld. I am fully of opinion, that with the same management as is in use i England, or as near as circumstances re«|uire, this province would, generally speaking, produce fully equal, and, I think, superior wheat to the former. Colonel Talbot's wheat is a goc'l sample this year, and I weighed some in the spring, of last year's growth, which weighed 621bs. to the Winchesr ter bushel. Nov. 1. — Been generally mild and pleasant, with some little rain of late ; thermometer 50 to 60. Having given Colonel Talbot notice that I should quit his service, I left him this day to proceed to York, and found it bad walking on account of the late thowers, particularly in places where ihjf road had been recently thrown up. On first making rwds through flat swampy places, logs are cut, about ten or tvftite feet long, laying them crosswise, side by side, through the aboves places, which as theyar« left round, and little or uo dirt upon them, are abominably rough ; but along the "street" they are getting them up, and ploughing the sides, and with a kind of large shovel, having a handle, (called a maper) and a yoke of oxen, the dirt is drawn into the centre an-', rounded, which is called " turnpiking." Four WT;tf.rr»»?m3?*r4ims>w?»-s'?R!fS?was^ S', OB vr. LBOt's — ROAD MAKIKG, UENT DESCRIBED—CAPA- AND MANNERS OF THE AI. AT ANCA8T1 ., AND inerally fine and pleasant varying from 55 to 63. ring, but nuts and leaves iployed husking corn ; tlie 'or a bushel of apples per this year, as apples are be> i or two frosty mornings thermometer 50. Leaves eck and a few others. By »heat sent from this coun' lition, but very foul, which the i^lkod of cultivation consicflld. I am fully of lagement as is in use i ices re«][uire, this province e fully equal, and, I think, ]!ol6nel Talbot's wheat is a ;hed some in the spring, led 621bs. to the Winchesr NO EMIGUATION. 69 and pleasant, with 9ome 50 to 60. Having given uld quit his service, I left and found it bad walking irticularly in places where wn up. On first making logs are cut, about ten or wise, side by side, through r« left round, and little or ibly rough ; but along the 1 up, and ploughing the shovel, having a handle, en, the dirt is drawn into ailed " turnpiking." Four men and two voke of oxen — one yoke and two men to plough, and the other to scrape, will do as much work in this way, where there are no obstructions, as fifteen or twenty men in the same time, by the ordinary way of dig- ging. The bottoms of the canals are often done the same way, and always ploughed, I believe; and in that case sho- velled into carts, or wheelbarrows, seldom or ever dug. In the evening I was overtaken by an elderly man, who pro- cured me a lodging, and I was hospitably received by his family ; they had every thing comfortable in their log-house, and were among the earliest settlers of the State. The settlers in the woods appear to be the most independent and contented people, in their way, I ever met witii ; perhaps with only a log house unplastered, containing two rooms, one above and one below, sometimes only one below, with a large open fire place and a log fire. The chimney back and hearth built of stone, picked up about the farm; a boarded floor unplaned, perhaps hewed only, if too far from a saw mill, one or two small glass sash windows, and some- times, at first, none ; doors and gates with wooden hooks and hinges. A few articles of common household utensils, two spinning wheels — oiie for flax and one for wool, with reaves of spun yarn hung round the inside of the house, on wooden pegs driven into the logs ; an upright churn ; (women always milk the cows and chum) ; a gun, or rifle ; one, two, or more dogs ; an oven out of doors at a little distance from the house, sometimes built of clay only, at others of brick or stones, often placed on the stump of a tree near the house, and a shed covered over with bark of a tree, or slabs to keep it dry; a yoke of oxen, some young steers, two or three cows, eight or toh sheep, perhaps a horse or a " span ;" a sleigh waggon, plough and harrow, the latter, perhaps, with wooden teeth, form all their riches except their land, and they often raise 100 or 200 bushels of wheat, 80^, 100 of corn, some oats, peas, and perhaps buck whea^piita patch of flax, and fatten three or four hogs, and a cwivJir yoke of oxen in a season, besides seven or eight more''mbe pigs, and a sow or two. But those who brought property with them, or were fortunate in having a large family of sons, industrious, and keep from the tavern, perhaps have got a good frame-house, or, at all events, a good frame barn, 80 or 100 acres of land cleared; grow 400 to 600 or m4l» bushels of wheat ; other things in proportion, with two or three yoke m ^\* • f ^m w m i'\\*\\\ mmm 70 EMIGRATION, OR of oxen, eight to ten or more cows, twelve to twenty or tliirty fat hogs, two to four or five horses, (half of them or more brood mares), &c. At the age of 21, the sons gene- rally leave their parents, if not before, and probably marry, and either buy a cleared farm, or go into the bush, or new wild land ; the last they will do without regret or hesitation ; indeed some prefer it on account of cattle doing so well through the summer in the woods, and the great crops new land produces, and as to the trouble of clearing it, a native would any time rather do it than fallow the same quantity of ground. November 2. — Bid my friend good morning, and thanked him for his kindness, as he would not accept of any remu- neration for my supper and bed ; and proceeded on my journey. Called at a respectable tavern to breakfast. Tho landlord was gone to the mill ; the mistress to a neighbour's, gossiping; and no bread in the house nor flour, until the landlord came back. Went on to the next house, a private one, where I procured some fried meat, boiled potatoes, tea, bread and butter, for which they could not be prevailed on to accept any thing! Called on an English farmer from Gloucestershire, who lives on a rented farm near the Catfiah Creek. He had been in good circumstances in England, but was reduced, like thousands of others, and must have felt severely. I was glad to find the old man hearty and cheerful ; he was hauling up some logs for fuel, with a yoke of oxen, dressed in his old country breeches. He has some good cows, and pretty good sheep. He has a small patch of hops planted in his garden, whose bines have run up the poles very high. Overtaken, to day, on the road, by an English gentleman on horseback, from the county of Sussex, now residing in Ancaster, who accosted me, as he said " he supposed I was his countryman." HeMLtaking a circuit round the country, to obtain sub- sclW^pto a weekly newspaper he is going to publish. He spe»i|» very highly of the country for health, &c., and for th« means of procuring a living by almost any kind of business, labour, or employment; — ho has travelled through much of the States. Several Englishmen, hereabouts, — and indeed ail over the provinces, perhaps one-sixth or one- eighth of the whole population. Stopped at Loder's. Some smart lasaca came in during the evening, who live just by, most of whom took a smoke with " the landlord and the , oa twelve to twenty or tliirty >B, (half of them or more of 21, the sons gene- fore, and probably marry, go into the bush, or new hout regret or hesitation ; t of cattle doing so well , and the great crops new e of clearing it, a native lUow the same quantity of >od morning, and thanked not accept of any remu- ; and proceeded on my tavern to breakfast. Tho i mistress to a neighbour's, 3 house nor flour, until on to the next house, a some fried meat, boiled r which they could not be ;! Called on an English ives on a rented farm near n in good circumstances I thousands of others, and glad to find the old man ing up some logs for fuel, [lis old country breeches, ty good sheep. He has a his garden, whose bines Overtaken, to day, on n on horseback, from the n Aucaster, who accosted I was his countryman." e country, to obtain sub- is going to publish. He for health, &c., and for ; by almost any kind of —ho has trareiled through ishmen, hereabouts, — and erhaps one-sixth or one- kopped at Loder's. Some evening, who live just by, ii "the landlord and the '! II NO EMIGftATIOK. 'M landlady, passing ihe short black pipe from one to another! Disgusting as this practice is, it is not so much so as one in <'ommon use in the Eastern part of Maryland, of girls taking a " rwAier " of snuff— that is, taking 'as much snuif as will lie on the end of the foreliuger out of a box, and rub- bing it round the inside of tiie mouth ! Nov. li. — Passed through the Pinewoods again, and breakfasted at Umstead's tavern; as usual, fried beef or pork, pickles and preserves, tea-cakes and butter — charge Is. 6d. New York currency, or about lOirf, which is the general charge in the west ; and 3id. for bed. From this place I travelled over new ground, to Big Creek ; sandy hills and swampy hollows, and apparently but an indifferent soil generally ; but, on asking a man who was letting off some water fronv the road near his house, if the land here- abouts was not poor ? he said, — I have no reason to com- plain ; I get good crops, and if I had had my health I should have done well enough — saying, the place had been very sickly for some years until this, which had been healthy. The many swamps easily account for sickness in the neigh- bourhood. It is rather extraordinary, that I have not met with a single person who complained of having bad land ! and but few that appeared discontented. Some higher and better land on its banks than I have come through of late. Sove- reign's tavern is pleasantly situated on a small eminence a little east of it, at the lower end of Talbot Street, and one of the best in its whole length, kept by a civil, and what is here called a clever, obliging person, son of a Dutchman. It is a good new farm-house, with barns and other outbuild- ings, and a shed to bait travellers' horses under — and all being painted and white-washed, cut a dashing apr^nnce at a distance; but when you approach you may V it is only a Canadian, or I might have said an American tavern, with some of its windows broken, and tho holes jtowed with fragments of old clothes.* There is, too geaei|^f*1n some of the best houses, both here and in the States, #l(ind of genteel shabbiuess and inconvenience r^ <>\ them ; but hero it is quite a new country, and we musf ijf* be fastidious, • Glass of American manufacture is much used, andbefng very thin aod briulc is easily broken, which, perhaps, is a sufficient apology for tb^ Ikbove unsightly objects in a new settlement, wh«in |iri']iaps severp.l in!JEi|t fi:om a store where glass can be procuted. i,i|»lfe.^a^vtj 'i " ' ""' 7-2 EMIGRATION, bn as it is daily improving;, all the way'l have come. Some good barns have been erected, and in various places good houses, within the last two years. Indeed, if we consider the great diiiicuUies the first settlers had to encounter, with- out roads for their communication, and consequently without a market for their produce, and the low, nay, almost des- titute circumstances which nine-tenths of them were in, on their arrival in the woods, it is matter of surprise that so much has been done. The mistress of this house, who is about thirty years of age, is no dissenter to the custom of the neighbourhood — seldom long without a beloved pipe. A girl of eighteen or nineteen, smart and lively, but without stockings,* came for a pound of tobacco (some of the land- lord's own raising), to learu to smoke, she said. The land- lord had been with some neighbours five miles into the woods, to clear out some windfalls, which had blocked up the road. At dark the above lass (who had now her stock- ings on) and her mother, came with a " Jersey waggon," to take the tavern keeper and his wife to a paring " bee," or " be," that is, an assemblage of neighbours invited to one house, to prepare apples for drying. Almost every thing here is done by "hoes" (in the States they are called frolics). They always contrive to have some whiskey at these " bees," which arc a kind of merry-meeting, when sometimes danc- ing and rustic plays are carried on at the close, and occa- sionally, by drinking too much, quarrels will sometimes arise among the men ; and doubtless a sufiicient quantum of scandal, nearly equ-xl to a tea-party in another part ot the world, among the w men. November 4. — Suows and sleets all day ; quite a con- trast to yesterday, which was a beautiful, fine mild day. Passed through ten miles of woods ; pine land and sandy oak plains, some of inferior quality, chiefly belongmg to " ^9^^ Empire Loyalists," or " United Empire" men. Th^Piyalistb who stuck to the British standard in the Re- volution, and their children, both male and female, are so called ; each of whom can, upon application, receive 200 acres of land «f the government in this province, free from all settling and road duties until settled; so the lands are • Stockings are hardly ever won by the settlers in the wt summer, either by males or ttiRiales. In winter the latter wear ings, and th« l^^rmer socks. , OR n'ay'I have come. Some id in various places good Indeed, if we consider "B had to encounter, with- and consequently witliout the low, nay, almost des- nths of them were in, on latter of surprise that so ess of this house, who is issenter to the custom of without a beloved pipe, rt and lively, but without obacco (some of the land- tke, she said. The land- ours five miles into the i, which had blocked up (who had now her stock- ;h a " Jersey waggon," to Fe to a paring " bee" or neighbours invited to one Almost every thing here they are called frolics). 5 whiskey at these " bees," g, when sometimes danc- ti at the close, and occa- quarrels will sometimes ss a sufficient quantum of :y in another part of the ts all day ; quite a con- beautiful, fine mild day. ia ; pine land and sandy ity, chiefly belongmg to " United Empire" men. ritish standard in the Re- [i male and female, are 1 application, receive 200 Q this province, free from settled; so the lands are ' the settlers in the v/t winter the latter wear KO EMIGRATIOW. 73 left in wilderness and the roads uncleared, except tho settlers " turn out" and clear them. It was here the tavern keepers and others had coriie five miles yetterday, to remove trees that had fell acres the track, and which is often occur- ing. This is another instance and proof, I conceive, of the injudicious system adopted by government, in leaving the public roads to be cleared by settlers. Passed some oak plains, with so few trees on them, that if the brushwood was moved off, they would look like immense parks ! There are a few small villages on these plains, scattered at no great distance. Waterford, Simcoe, and Dover, with from fifteen to thirty houses, have more of the rural simplicity and neatness of English villages than any other I have seen in this country. In a few years, when sheep shall be more attended to, a new system of husbandry in- troduced, and farmers of capital emigrate to Upper Canada, these plains will, I think, be some of the most valuable in the province. — Cut down some or all the few trees to rend into rails for fences ; mow off the few bunches of willow and sassafras brush with a strong scythe ; plough up the ground (a sand) in the fall, and either sow winter tares, or peas in the spring, harrowed in on the furrow ; the second year, plant corn and well work it; third year, barley or oats, and with it clover or sanfoin, and with turnips and plenty of sheep, it may be made, I think, vcrj' profitable land, and certainly easy and pleasant working, with healthy situations for building, and generally good water. Breakfasted at " a house of entertainment" (houses that have no tavern license). You eat, and drink whisky if }'ou choose, it i? set before you, they charge only for the former, though not fo'-^Jtting the latter in the charge. Whisky at taverns is three-pence halfpenny per gill, which is more than 500 per cent, profit ; the same quantity, by the gallon, is about a halfpenny. Licenses for taverns and stills in the province are rather high, to prevent their extension to excess * Still? pay ac- cording to their capacity, 4s. 6d. per gallon yearly ; ai 'd as the smallest stills that are in use, I believe, are forty gallons, they of course pay forty dollars, or 10/. currency per year. Taverns pay according to their situation for business, 'vhich is determined yearly by the magistrates, from 25s. to 61, • Stills cost erecting from 60!. to 20*W., which will L i) from thirty to sir.ty or eighty gallons of whisky per diem. iSSSET 74 EMIGRATION, OR and upwards. A " bee " commenced at tlie above house while eating my breakfast; the women quilting and the men husking corn. They had just killed a sheep to enter- tain them with. From this place I entered a country, in some places approaching to hilly, and better settled and open, some pleasant situations and good orchards. A man accident- ally drowned yesterday at a mill, and while I was passing it to-day, people were iSocking from all the countr}', on foot, in waggons, and on horseback, to attend, as is customary, this early funeral, at twelve o'clock. Stopped for the night at the village of Brentford, on the banks of Grand River, over which is a large strong wooden bridge, lately erected. Villages in this country are mostly embryos of townSj, full of trado and bubiuess, and some of them increasing fast. This village is situate well both for trade and health, being on high ground. Indians live on the flat of the river, and still hold six miles width on itii banks ; some of which they lease out for a term of yenrs, at a low rate, to white people. There are some extensive views from the high land over the cultivated rich bottoms. Nov. 5. — Walked forward to Ancaster ; dined at a tavern on the road, where a printed bill was stuck up, to inform the public, that a Yankee show would be exhibited there to- morrow ; and among other things, will be " the glorious victory over the British at New Orleans !" which is a public insult. Stopped at Vanderlip's tavern, three miles from Ancaster : the proprietor a thriving Dutchman, who had, he said, three sons in the battle cf Queenston. The government and some military officers hnre b( u her' and at the " short hills " lately, looking out eligible situutions for the erection of fortifications. Overtook an old Scotch- man from the west, going down the country on a visit to a relation ; has been four years from Scotland, and wishes himself back again, which is rather singular, as generally, it is said, a " Scotchman is never at home but when from home;" inde'^d, this is the first of that country I have met with discontented. But old people from Europe, without, pro- perty, seldom can fall in cordially with the customs and manners of tliis new country. Frost last night, but a thaw to-day, which makes the road bad by the melting of the snow. Cash given for grain, and produce hereabouts, which makes this part more thriving than westward, beiog' nearer a market. Wheat is low just now, 25. 6| a more open, level, and at Sumner's Tavern, at a This appears a tolerably aused by the stimulus of II kinds of produce. Con- fn in this neighbourhood ; Is per acre considerftd a 1 ; the ground appears too )lace to York runs parallel ntario, about two or three in the night, which has tnd some of the dust from creeks (small rivers) over )s, near which are mills, towns and villages. The earn with a strong bottom, &c. in the spring or fall ; pearing and selling them, JOOlb. weight. No nets outh, as they would soon ip them from going up the rsons in a canoe,* w ith a kill eight or ten barrels of imcs none at all, as they } to York there are some 3, &c., and a cedar 8w.imp lo spot ; on one of which riving- young fruit trees. Tom York, (taverns every 3 American, who is just unds of iron ware. L capital of Upper Canada, north, contains between s a fast increasing and im- f good buildings, villa.i, &c. , and built of brick. The ough generally small, are vhat I have seen in some Ihe Assembly sine, t') prevent id in its neighbourlicod and live Other places. The country round the town is rather too flat for show. No distant object strikes the eye except the light- hoxise, the shores of the lake, and the peninsula on the oppo- site side of the bay, which are pleasing. The town has been unhealthy till of late ; a swamp at the back of it was the cause. It is now drained, and the place is healthy. There are two churches, one of the establishment and the other Roman Catholic, and two or three meeting houses. In Canada, as in the States, the Presbyterians, Methodists, and Baptists, appear the most numerous, except in particu'ar places, (but I may be incorrect, as I have no data to guide me), yet the Episcopalians, or Church of England Congrega- tionalists, (Independents), and Roman Catholics, are pretty numerous ; besides others, such as Quakers, Dunkards, (who are Germans) Universalists, Unitarians, and some now aects, " Davidites," and Christians, &c. &c.. On my leav- ing the Province a grand Law-Hall was building, and a new House of Assembly and College to be commenced imme- diately, which makes a demand for stone cutters and masons, and ia a great stimulus to the place ; there is also a talk of a new Episcopal church being shortly erected. Only a few of the We.sloyan Methodists — the greater part being what is termed American Methodists, who have sepa- rated from the other, and ^ro now subject to the American Conference. There is only a small market-house at present, which is well attended every day; and, as the town increases, another will of course be erected — one is now talked of. The main, or King's Street, is the only one as yet gravelled ; the others are thrown up into ridges, and are very dirty just now. The streets in towns and villages in this country are wider and more regular; and the houses being all new <»nd many painted or whitewashed, they have a more light ana airy appearance than those in old countries. There is one bank, called the " York Bank," which is in good repute; there is also one in Montreal which has a banking-house here, besides one or two in Quebec. Any respectable, steady tradesman can procure money by giving a joint note of hand at the banks, which is a won- derful advantage in a new country, where skill and enter- prise have such ample room for its beneficial employment. I think it might be now extended, to very manifest advantage of the province. It is the numerous banks in every part of the States, that have given such a stimulus to enterprise .f m^ limi 78 EMIGRATION, Olt i if (| among the Americans; >iik! thougli it may cause rather wild speculations, and i)*) ^bankruptcies uccaaionaliy, and, consequently, individual losses, the latter soon recover by the same means ; and these speculations are, at all events, public benefits, and cause great undertakings with little or no capital. The notes hero are from one dollar, or 5s. cur- rency, to 1/., 51., 10/., 20/., &c. payable in cash on de- mand. York Harbour is formed by a semicircular strip of land or sandbank, with some trees growing thereon, leaving un outlet to the south-west — the lighthouse being near its point. The bay is about three miles in diameter, having a small river, the Don, emptying into it, where salmon, herrings, eels, &c., are caught; some wild ducks also resort to it in spring and fall. It is a good place, also, for domestic geese, where a considerable number are seen ; and, like the generahty of the geeso kept in the province, appear a smaller breed than the £ngli«ii, though perhaps hardier; at Col. Talbot's, and a few other places, I have seen some of the latter. A few hundred soldiers are sta- tioned here in the barracks, which are situated opposite the lighthouse and entrance of the bay. Building lots of land, within the last year or two, have risen in value very fast, on account, it is said, of the seat of government being decided to remain here for some years to come. CHAPTER VU. OPENING OF THE COLONIAL SESSION VARIOUS JOUR- NEYS FROM YORK A NATURAL OIL SPRING — CANA- DIAN AUCTION A DUTCH SETTLEMENT AMHER8T- BURG, SANDWICH, AND OTHER PLACES, — A VOYAGE ON LAKE ERIF., AND DETROIT RIVER DESCRIBED. Nov. 10. — Took a long walk down the Kingston road, chiefly through pine woods and, of course, sandy land, with occasionally a clearing of a house. There are some very fine townships below, and well settled. Saw some of the tall Eu- ropean thistles for the first time in the Province. Great quaa- tities of staves for barrels, squared timber, and lumber, yearly prepared on the shores of Lake Ontario, and sent to Mon* treal and Quebec markets, where they bring a good pries, generally to be shipped for the West Indies; and various ^ »l W * r . ^j t j . M il nlnm iffli ili L i | ^u i< gq i |fi " ■» y , oil gli it may cause rather uptcies occasionally, and, 6 latter soon recover by lations are, at all events, adertakings with little or )ni one dollar, or 5s. cur- payable in cash on de- by a semicircular strip trees growing thereon, St — the lighthouse being three miles in diameter, emptying into it, where caught ; some wild ducks It is a good place, aUo, lerable number are seen ; cse kept in the province, £ngli«ii, though perhaps few other places, I have liundred soldiers are sta- 1 are situated opposite the I. Building lots of land, isen in value very fast, on overnment being decided sme. VII. SSION VARIOUS JOUR- \L OIL SPRING — CAKA- ETTLEMENT AMHEHST- IR PLACES, — A VOYAGE RIVER UESCKIBED. lown the Kingston road, course, sandy land, with There are some very fine Saw some of the tall £u- be Province. Great quaa* timber, and lumber, yearly Qtario, and sent to Mon- I they bring a good pries, West Indies; and various so EMI6RATI0K. 79 parts of the United Kingdom. Upwards of GOO vu.smIs, with 3,000,000/. worth of timber, loaded yearly, which in a great benefit to the country, as it is full of timber. Cord \s'ood in York sells at 9s. to lUv. 6d. per cord, (a cord is a stack of eight feet long, four feet high, and cleft in lengths liiid across, of four feet); 2s. 6d, per cord is given for chop- ping and splitting it up; an expert chopper will do three corda in a day. Europeans, on their first arrival in this country, are inferior to Americans in the < )" tho axe, but soon will, with attention, get suflicioiit' ml be their equals. Fine large fruit grows a' 'h Luke Erie and Ontario; saw an upplu ,; which weighed 1 802. and there are some 25 <■ Dec. 1. — Engaged board and lodg. pectable tradesman's bouse, at lis. 3en the Session of Parliament, ac- companied by a number ot the military, and a band of music playing national airs. When he was seated on the throne, surrounded by his aid-de-camps, und some members col- lected in front, the Governor delivered a written speech, after which the members retired from the council chamber to 80 KUIORATION, OH proceed to business, and the Governor to hia carriage, to be escorted back to his house by the soldiers, the music playing, cannon flring, &c. Dec. 10. — Left York in n schooner, to cross the Lake to Niagara (or Fort George) for 4s. 6d., about thirty-six miles ; arrived in the evening. Niii^ara is pleasantly situated on apparently a dry healthy soil, at the outlet of the noble river from which it derives its name. This was the first place burnt during the last war by the American General M'Clare. It is a very smart, neat, clean place, with some large stores and good taverns. The air is milder than on the other side of the lake, and the snow never fi.lls so soon nor so deep. Niagara to Quecnston, and indeed round the head of the lake to Dundaa, Hamilton, and Ancaster, is a fine country, genial air, healthy, well watered, and settled. Land from 30t. to 4/. 10s. per acre. Fruit is plentiful, good, and cheap. Apples arc pared, quartered, and cored, then strung on a thread to dry, either by the sun or fire. The peaches have their stones taken out and dried in the same way, and otherwise preserved. The American " Nia- gara Fort," a small village of Young's town, is situated on the opposite side of the river ; and Leweston opposite Queenston, at which I arrived seven miles above Niagara. Gen. Brock's monument is finished, and stands very con- spicuous on the mountain top near the road to th^ Falls. It is to be seen plainly at Niagara, and with a glass, in a ckar day, at York, on the other side of the lake. It is a very neat, strong-built pile ; being Sunday, it has the Bri- tish flag on its top. Passed Lunday's Lane, which is within a short distance of the falls. A sharp and obstinate battle was fought here in the late war, which terminated in favour of the British. At a little distance, but within sight of the road, a few miles nearer Queenston, the present Governor has a country house, in which he resides during the sum- mer ; it is in about the stile of a first-rate farmer's in Eng- land. There is a small village near, with a little neut stone church. Orchards still have some apples hanging on their trees, and great quantities lying under them rotting. The young wheat all along my route looks well. A sn:all steam boat ran this last season on the river between Chip- pawa and Buffaloe, and a horse boat runs across at the Ferry at Blackrock. OR irernor tu hia carriage, to the soldiers, the music iner, to cross the Lake to f., about thirty-six miles ; is pleasantly situated on the outlet of the noble ne. This was the first >y the American General t, clean place, with some he air is milder than on snow never fi.lU so soon on, and indeed round the ikon, and Ancaster, is a rell watered, and settled, icre. Fruit is plentiful, ed, (|uurtered, and cored, either by the sun or fire. Len out and dried in the d. The American " Nia- ng's town, is situated on and Lewestun opposite en miles above Niagara, id, and stands very con- ir the road to the Falls, -a, and with a glass, in a lide of the lake. It is a ; Sunday, it has the Bri- o's Lane, which is within liarp and obstinate battle lich terminated in favour !, but within sight of the n, the present Governor resides during the sum- rst-rate farmer's in Eng- -, with a little neat stone me apples hanging on ing under them rotting, ite looks well. A small the river between Chip- boat runs across at the J f ..i-.»sijSB!£iitL'Baem£xi^si. ther bed, to have it for a covering in lieu of a sheet and blankets, having a straw or chaff one underneath ! \t is certainly a warm, but to me not pleasant, method of lying. Some severe cold nights of late; one night I believe the thermometer was ten or twelve degrees below Zero, but it is milder again and pleasant Feb. 6. — TI.Te has been a greater quantity of snow this winter than was ever known since the settlement of the country. In the west, twelve to eighteen inches d'^ep on a level ; back about London, and down at York, twenty four to twenty-eight inches; and farther down the province, three feet and upwards. The weather has been proportion- ably cold, and frost steady till now, except a small thaw a few days in January, which it is said always happens, little or much, in that month. Feb. 23. — A beautiful and clear warm day ; the snow had been wasting for some days past, which has broken up the excellent sleighing that had lasted steady all winter. The strength of the crust of the snow has this winter enabled the wolves to hunt 'Jown the deer, and great numbers have been destroyed. Attended a vendue, or auction sale of farming-stock lately, for vvhich a credi^^^jf ten months was given, and the payment to be in wheaif vt the market price of the time of payment. The sale was conducted in much the same manner as an English country auction, with this peculiarity, that every time a person gives a bidding, he is offered the bottle of whisky to drink, besides its free and constent. circulation through the whole company. A neigh- bour acts as auctioneer, paying for a license 4s. 6d. for a year. On account of credit being given, things went off much higher than they otherwise would have done. A small aged horse, 1 1/. 7s. 6d. ; cows from 3/. to 51. 5s. ; a yoke of oxen, 16/. 85.; sheep from 6$. 9d. to lis.dd. each, with their wool on ; a wooden clock, 31. 16s. This man's circnmstances and progress may be stated as a criterion of the success of steady industrious settlers in general. He, with several others of the family, came into Canada seven years ago, from the United States, with little or no property besides a bed, and a few other things, of small value. After 96 EMIGRATION, OR working out a while to procure a cow, and some neceasary articles, he drew fifty acres of land of Colonel Talbot, to clear the road, ond settled on it, where he continued to this period, steady and industrious. He has sold his land now at 123/. 15a., and the proceeds of the auction sale, 108/. — together 231/. I5s. sterling. But there are too many that lore idleness and the tavern more than is consistent with much prosperity; still, idlers are despised. I have not chosen this man's experience ns the most successful, but what any may attain with industry and prudence; for those who had a family of boys, and drew 200 acres of land, and worked on it with equal perseverance, have pro- bably doubled the above amount. The sugar harvest now begins, which is not so promising as last year. March 25.— Open weather of late ; some days mild and pleasant. Ice off the Lake, frost out of the ground, and snow all gone, except a small remnant drifted oa the north sides of the ravines. March 30.— Started in an open boat up the Lake for Sandwich and Detroit, about 130 miles, in company with a squire, his son, and another neighbour, farmen ; the former of whom was taking up seven or eight hundred weif,ht of butter and cheese for S'^le. The wind being unfavoul-able, we made but small progruor. and the roughness of the Lake caused sea-sickness for awhile. We stopped at a private- house for the night, on the Luke shore, and were treatea hospitably by its owner, a Scotchman. March 31 — After fitting out a boat belonging to our friend, better adapted for sailing than the one we had, and shifting the cargo, we sailed with a fair but light breeze ; but it soon after hauled round with the sun, and (he Lake got rough, so we were unable to go on shore to dine on account of the surf. At sun-set we made Point Aux-Pins or Rondeau, and about nine o'clock we run our boat into a creek, and made safe for the night. No house being near, we were compelled to " camp out," which is no very strange thing in some parta of America. After making a good fire of wood drifted on the beech, at the side of some bushes^ over which we threw our sails for shelter from the wind, we sat down to supper, and then spread a sail on the ground; on which we lay with our feet to the fire for the night, each of us wrapped in a blanket. The wind gettiog L 3S, OR a cow, and some necesaary ' land of Colonel Talbot, to where he continued to this He has sold his land now at ' the auction sale, 108/. — at there are too many that ore than is consistent with ire despised. I hare not 8 the most successful, but idustry and prudence; for 8, and drew 200 acres of [lal perseverance, have pro- t. The sugar harvest now g as last year, if late ; some days mild and Mt out of the ground, and mnaat drifted on the north ipen boat up the Lake fur 10 miles, in company with a ;hbour, farmers ; the former )r eight hundred weif.ht of le wind being unfavouj.'able, I the roughness of the Lake We stopped at a prirate* tke shore, and were treatea hman. it a boat belonging to our than the one we had, and ith a fair but light breese ; with the sun, and (he Lake to go on shore to dine on t we made Point Aux-Pins ock we run our boat into a ht. No house being near« t," which is no very strange After making a good fire at tiie side of some bushes, for shelter from the wind', then spread a sail on the our feet to the fire for the blanket. The wind gettiog NO RMIORATION. 8? round early in the morning, and being rather cold, it awakened us, and as it was favourable we determined to proceed before daylight. April 1. — Left the outlet at three o'clock this morning, with a light, but fair and pleasant breeze, which continued through the day, with mild air and cloudless sky. Doubled Point Peel, or south foreland, the most southern part of Canada, soon after noon, and rowed round Pigeon Bay, a great fishing place of the Indians, particularly for sturgeon. Cedars grow along the sand banks which surround the point, and enclose large ponds and marshes as at Rondeau, and perhaps a greater place for water-fowl. Stopped near the mouth of Sturgeon Creek, at an American's, for the night. April 2. — A moat beautiful day, and warm, with a fine light breeze from the east. Ranged within a mile or two of the coast of what is called the New Settlement, although it has been settled longer than most other new parts. Saw some fine well-built houses of both frame and brick, with good orchards every little way. Catered the Detroit river about noon, and was soon at the town of Maiden, or Amherst- burgh, three miles from its mouth ; a smart, neat, French- built town, opposite the fine small island of Bois Blanc, and others. "Tliere is good and safe anchorage between the island and main shore, well adapted for wharfs and other conveniences for naval or commercial purposes. The houses have long steep roofs, after the French fashion : some neat gardens round the town, enclosed with paling. The inhabi- tants are the greater part French, the first settlers. This place is well situated for trade, in the very mildest and southernmost part of the province, latitude 42^ ; but it wants some enterprising spirits to make it flourish rapidly, Considerable quantities of tobacco are grown in the neigh- boarhood, which it h evident will soon become quite a staple article. Potatoes %re selling here at 2«. 3d. per bushel, and brought out of the States, like many other articles. We left this place in the evening for Sandwich, my friend not being willing to take Id. per lb. for bis butter, and a little less for his cheese. We camped out again on the beach under the river bank ; being a warm night and mnd still, we were pretty comfortable. About midnight some American smugglers were attracted by our fires to the spot, from the opposite side. One was a pleasant person, It EMIGRATION', OK >nd had brought a patent churn to shew, and of courM to mH if he could. It wos to bo hung up in o room, and put in motion by a string while sitting. He had alio a patent keg, with four heads, to contain as many di£ferent kinda of liquors. April 3. — Started again before daylight up the river, and got lost in the marshy mouth of Duck Rirer, where, if variety of notes could charm, we had an excellent chance of being delighted ; and indeed aa an expression of natural joy excited by the return of spring, in the animal creation, it must bd agreeable to any but a vitiated mind. We rectified our mistake just at daybreak, and continued up the river, with a fine breeze in our favour, by some large islands, some of them entire marshes, whose flaggy grass bad just been burned, for the double purpose of getting at the musk rata, and to destroy all the old grass, and allow the young to shoot up for mowing for hay. This is a fine old settled country ; large orchards, and numerous white houses along the shore, in the French fashion, being first settled by French, and the greater part still held by their descendants. An author has said, " in passing these straits of Detroit, when fruit-trees are in blossom, the prospect is perhaps as delightful as any in the world." The wind rising, we were wafted rapidly along to Sandwich Harbour, where we landed at the only and unfrequented wharf, eighteen miles from Amherstburgh. Sandwich is pleasantly situated on a fine rise of ground, and apparently a good and moderately dry soil ; but the town, on entering it, excites feelings of disap- pointment and disgust. There are some few good houses, surrounded by others that have the appearance of desolation and poverty, occupied apparently by a dilatory, listless set Of beings, and such was the miserable state of the taverns; that we could not procure refreshments, or be accoin^ modated with a room at any one of them. We cdle4 at a house or two to ask 'if any butter was wanted, but were not the least disappointed after the above jwo^tion, and took to our boat again for the htry two miIe^|llOVfll^od opnpsite Detroit, where we fcand t\sr/ good tarorns, with plenty of ^ beer, cider, *&c. Detroit, on the oppowte bank of the river, which is about three quarters of a mile across, has a vorv pretty appearance, with the spires and sieeples of illj^ or three cborches and the capital. Passed over in i&fm ferry-boat ; charge 3id, A number of good large stoi^ft. N, OR to ahew, and of court* to lung up in n room, and put ig. He had also a patent I as many different kinds of ) daylight up the river, and of Duck RiTer, where, if had an excellent chance of m expression of natural joy in the animal creation, it ritiuted mind. We rectified nd continued up the river, ur, by some large islands, vhose flaggy grass had just pose of getting at the musk rass. and allow the young to This is a fine old settled umerous white houses along lion, being first settled by II held by their descendants, ng these straits of Detroit, the prospect is perhaps as The wind rising, we were 1 Harbour, where we landed wharf, eighteen miles from leasantly situated on a fine a good and moderately dry it, excites feelings of disap- are some few good houses, the appearance of desolation r by a dilatory, listless set tff rable state of the tarerns^ freshments, or be acconl-^ one of them. We cAldi butter was wanted, but were le above j i e ei p tion, and took wo mile^MOBffe^^d oprasite ;ood tajrarns, with plemy of I oppome bank of the river, f a mile across, has a Tgr^ rirea and steeples of (|||^ ital. Passed over in uKm raber of good large storti, wo EMIGRATION. |9 to several of which we went. My friend could not meet with a market for his butter and cheese at so high a price as at Aniherstbiirgh, large quantities having already arrived. Detroit, as well as Sandwich, was settled by the Freuch about the same time as Philadelphia. There is a large Roman Catholic church, and a moderate size Presby- terian one. Re-crossed the river, and stopped for the night at one of the ferry-houses. Two or three young men, from the river Thames, are here with twenty barrels of cider in a boat, ready to " run" across to Detroit in the night, to evade the duty. They had sold it at three dollars per barrel. April 4. — My friends return to Amherstburgh, where they will leave their butter and cheese at a store, to be sold on commission, and return home; while I proceed on foot, ou my route up the Detroit, for the river Thames, along the road through Westminster to the head of Lake Ontario. The banks of the river Detroit, near the ferry, and some distance up on the Canada side, are from ten to twenty feet Iiigb, giving a pleasant commanding prospect, with some good and neat French houses, having orchards and gardens at short distances, on the side of the road, which runs along the banks of the river. The land is cleared nearly two miles back, and free from stumps-r-those unsightly objects to " old country " people, on first coming into America, on new-cleared farms. The flower gardens enclosed with pales, though rude, and the old orchards, and green pastures, give it more the appearance of my native country, which is thus brought to my imagination, than any part I have yet seen in the new world. Farms sell here at from 45$. to 3/. 10s. per acre, a house and some buildings included. The French have a neater way of making their zig-zag fences, by strait- ening them a little, and putting a stake on each side of the corners, which are pinned together nearer the top than is in general use. Their houses, that were in good repair, are 'also more neat, by being covered over their sides with bark. Six or seven miles above Detroit is Lake St. Clair ; and justj^n entering it u an island in the river ; this lake is, I beheve, nearly circular, and twenty or thirty miles across. Along ifaa Canada side of it I travelled to the mouth of the Thames. Its biinks are very low, and in places are large ^Jkarshes ; but where there are none it is chiefly settled, and Mostly by French, who speak English barely sufficient to be 'Understood. At the mouth of the river Thames there are ^ emioration, or Inl-^nT r /"''"' '" '°™» ?'»*=»' "°*^<»'"«d Ly water, Ltin 5T J"'* "'"*^' ""»'' "'''ch P«ople have « t ed and keep great number, of cattle and hor.e. to breed for .ale mowing the marsh grau for hay. I .hould have •upposed theM marahe. unhealthy, had I notTen told otherw^e and the looks of the peop'io confirm the a^Jrt'oJ^ «. ^? Z'l^. crossing four mUes of the Bir Man h I came o the Thames, a mile or two from iu moSh id a few miles below Chatham. At Chatham there i. a church and a mill, but no town or village at present. Tifo rive7 is' about fourteen or fifteen rod. or pole, wide, of unXm breadth, and of sufficient depth to admit .choone« up " twenty m. e- or more. There are some rich farTaTonTita is Settled bvF:."°i T^,^?^^-'^' f " "veral 2s S othe« W^hfr^i: •"** ^J«^'i "P "« ^"'«'' ""d some »S tL ■ *"*■ "'"' '°°''' *«"• Jwt covering the ground. There IS a store, and mill, once in ten or fifteen miles Iverrrwi-ndmins"' f"'k '" ^'""' *"'' ^«'™'' "^"" ave •everal windmills. Fish are now coming up the river in shoals to spawn One man told me he h!d Sready cauaS Aprt 6.-Passed over from the river to Talbot Street again along the road or track, which, at be.t. ^0?^ better ban an Indian trail, and now nearly bl^keS up £ trees blown across it: while the late rain, have fiHedthI Tr.Tlh"etl? •' '''"'~f-P'»«'We for either Tan ort«t ihi. IS the only communication to the river where there is a bridge, and is much used when passable. Why do nol government cut these public road., with the fee. JL X money ariamg from the sale of land. ? If n^otlw fund. arrir/*?""/""™*''.'?*""* "8ain. where my friend, had armed the day preceding. Some heavy rdn yesterday Weather warm of late, and hardly the .lightest frMt for* IZni^Z' "**'"' P^t-th^-'o-neter 50 toVoTLdTprfi in all Its beauty appear.. »P"»"8 colf^wblcr?''*' A r" °f '"* •»'">*'' *" *«t and was expected. Wheat on the wet soil. look, but indiffer- enUy on account of it. but on the dry and ««dy o^'tir June l._There baa been a frosty night or two of late. *i »TIO>J,OR ome placos uncovered hy water, Jred, round which people have Msrs of cattle and horse* to breed grass for hay. I should have healthy, had I not been told he people confirm the assert on. four miles of the Big Man h I or two from iu mouth, and a At Chatham there is a church, illage at oresent. TJie river is f the visitors to the Falls go iew the surrounding country [which is 126 feet high, the irt of whom are Americans t mostly from the southern, jed ; Canada is such a fine » not belong to the States," 1 company at a tavern with tie New Yorkers, who spoke ly of two nations so nearly same language, and whose I war, as Great Britain and lable lives were lost on both " asked one of them, and for the invasion of Canada, ! general feeling of the most as. ather, with some rain and women, or children in this t thunder, nor are the latter ! dark, or indeed but seldom Saw the first stage coach in b style, built very strong and About 300 sheep brought £.££>■ NO EMIGRATION. 95 over the river at the ferry from the States, and duties paid, some for the canal and others to be shipped for York. Ame- ricans from the southern States, and others, are often put to some trouble with their '« niggers " while visiting Canada, as some of them take advantage of our just laws, which admit of no slavery. " They touch our country and their shakles fall ! That's noble!" A French officer who was over here had one of these un- fortunates, (a female slave servant), whose skin was a shade darker than his own, take " French leave," when he hired a number of the " sons of liberty" to cross the river and kidnap her back again, in which they too well succeeded under false pretences of pitying her, and procuring her a situation. Having got her near the water, they carried her by force into a boat, and before the inhabitants could arrive to her rescue, she was wafted in triumph across to " the land of the free and the home of the brave," with the hearty execrations of the indignant Canadians. Aug. 2. — Took the steam boat from Niagara to York ; fare on deck 4s. 6rf., in the cabin 9s. ; four hours crossing thirty-six miles ; pleasant day and lake smooth ; large sturgeon springing quite out of the water at play ; people in boats about the mouth of the Niagara river, and in other S laces, for a long time back, dragging for the body of one lorgan, a free-mason, who, it is pretty well ascertained, was murdered in or near Fort Niagara, at the mouth of the river, in the State of New York, and is supposed to have been af- terwards thrown into the lake by a number of brother masons, for the crime of publishing a book professing to explain and expose the whole secrets of that fraternity. Great rewards have been offered for the recovery of the body, but as yet without effect. Aug. 3. — Not much business stirring in York just now ; harvest time keeps people busy at home. A number of emi- grants just arrived in steam boats from below, chiefly Irish, but also a few English. In this country, generally, all trades give premiums, or wages to apprentices, which makes almost ar.y trade easy of attainment to the poorest classes. Some showers of rain every few days, which makes things grow and flourish, and keeps the weather cool and pleasant. There is a singular kind of toad, called a tree toad, on account of 96 BMIORATION, OR its being mostly seen on trees, up which it climbs, where it sits, and in rainy wuather makes a loud noise similar to an English quail ; but its greatest curiosity is its power of changing its colour to that on which it is placed, from nearly white to almost black, and intervening colours ; it is not done instantaneously but gradually, in about ten or fifteen minutes. Had I not witnessed it more than once, I certainly should not have been easily convinced. While standing on the wharf lately, a pleasant behaved American came up to me, and, in the true spirit of his country, was in an instant as inquisitive aud communicative as if he had been parti- cularly acquainted. Taking me for an American, he said he bad just come from Salem, near Boston, New England; after a lot of land some few miles back of York, which had been made over to him for a debt incurred for shoes sent from there to here, (t. e. smuggled, of course). He never bad been much from home Irofore, but said, " I see people are alike all over the world;" and added, he had been taken as much care of, and as civilly treated, in Ca- nada, as he had been in the States, as far as he could see. This person's surprise in finding people in Canada as civi- lized and polite as in the States, is by no means singular among Americans. Gardens in York are generally in good order, better than I have seen elsewhere in America), and the vegetables, &c. in them very thriving, except when too much crowded or under fruit trees. Brewers appear to do well. There are two or three in York thriving, who began with but little. A porter brewer would, I think, succeed well, if he made a good article. Aug. 21. — Sail for Kingston in a schooner made by two farmers, brothers ! farmers are ship-builders, or any, or every thing, as inclination leads, or necessity dictates ! A few good ship-builders are wanted on both Lakes, and like- wise a few steady sailors. The latter get from 14 to 18 or^ 20 dollars per month during summer, and the former 1 J to 2 dollars per day. . Aug. 27. — After experiencing a smart gale, and some head winds and calms, we arrived at Kingston with a fair wind and pleasant weather. As you approach the town by Long Island it looks very fine. Point Frederic in front, on which is situated the navy yard, barracks, offices, and houses of the government officers and others, has a vary similar appearance, in miniature, to New York and vicinity. IT N, OB p which it climbs, where it !8 a loud noise similar to 9t curiosity is its power of ch it is placed, from nearly rvening colours; it iff not ly, in about ten or fifteen more than once, I certainly need. While standing on ived American came up to country, was in an instant as if he had been parti- for an American, he said ear Boston, New England ; uiles back of York, which a debt incurred for shoes (luggled, of course). He ) before, but said, " I see rid;" and added, he had as civilly treated, in Ca- es, as far as he could see. people in Canada as civi- , is by no means singular if ork are generally in good teewhere in America), and )ry thriving, except when it trees. Brewers appear three in York thriving, ■ter brewer would, I think, article. n a schooner made by two ship-builders, or any, or or necessity dictates ! A I on both Lakes, and like- itter get from 14 to 18 or^ ner, and the former IJ to a smart gale, and some I at Kingston with a fair 70a approach the town by *oint Frederic in front, On d, barracks, offices, and ■s and others, has a very to New York and vicinity. NO EMIO RATION. 97 Kingston is an old settled place, situated on the west bank of the Catarauqnui river, opposite the naval depot, over which a large bridge is about to be built of wood. Wooden bridges in this country, generally, are the most proper at present, being more economical, requiring less outlay from the scanty hnances of a new country ; yet, as there is here such im- mense rocks, and good building and lime stone, on the spot, (laid bare by an overflowing of the water over the surround- ing neighbourhood at some early period), I should have sup- posed It would have been nearly as cheap, and if so, car- tainly more desirable for its durability and strength. The harbour is good, and an excellent place for wharfs ; but, with the exception of two or throe, you run the risk of a broken limb in crossing them. The houses are built chiefly of stone, and generally larger than those in York; the streets are also paved with stones, (in rather a rough manner), "Which gives It much the appearance of a small-sized market town in England, about 3000 inhabitants. There are a number of good stores; and three or four large druggists' shops, as elegantly arranged as some in London, in all their neatness of order, much better than the general part I have seen in America. A pretty large and handsome stone-built church, and another small one belonging to the Establish- ment, besides Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, and Methodist places of worship. I like the appearance of Kingston gene- rally, but it is not so thriving^s York ; and here also there w a little of the American feature before noticed. Houses and premises half built and half in ruins, unmeaning, slo- venly arrangements, &c. ; but they are fully counter- balanced by a number of specimens of real neatness and order, in different parU of the town, and particulariy along the banks of the bay. The military establishment in the neighbourhood causes some little business, yet the inhabi- tants complain times are not now as they have been. A band of music from the barracks parades the town occa- sionally at night, playing lively airs. Four steam-boats ply between here and Prescott and up the bay of Quintie (pro- nounced Kanty, or Canty), besides three to Niagara, York, and Queenston, once a week. Three very large ships of war on the stocks, one above 100 guns, where they have remained since the war. Kingston is inhabited chiefly by Europeans, the greater part Irish, I believe, considerable numbers of Scotch, some Americans, and a few English. i 98 EMIGRATION, OR With a little of the downright hearty good-feeling of my conntrymen, I also witnessed some of the haughty super- ciliousness of aristocratic pride, and the impudence of pam- pered menials. The market is well supplied with meat, fruit, and vegetables. PoUtoes very fine, and only lOrf, per bushel now, they have been higher. Apples Is. 6rf. per bushel. Peaches dear, 6«. 9rf. to 9s. ditto, brought from Niagara and the Genessee river. Melons of various prices, from 6d. to 2t. 6d. each. Plums, pines, &e. Beef 4d. per lb. Great quantities of the tall European thistle hereabout, and seed flying in all directions. If there be no means taken to pre- vent them spreading, by mowing them before their seeding time, they will prove a curse to this country in a few years, as they increase surprisingly, and here literally cover the ground in places. Durham boats, with produce, ran from here to Montreal, and large rafts of staves and lumber from the bay of Quintie. The Rideau Canal is commenced a little above Kingston, which it will greatly benefit, particu- larly if reduced to a boat canal only. It at first was in- tended to be made large enough for schooners and steam- boats. It has been unusually sickly hereaboiita : fevers and agues, and what are called dumb agues, which are the worst, and sometimes fatal, have been very prevalent. The work on the above canal has been entirely stopped by them for the present, until the cool weather comes on ; the neigh- bourhood where they are now cutting is swampy, with a number of ponds and small lakes. Aug. 29.— The last two or three nights the aurora bo- realis, or northern lighto, have been remarkably brilliant and grand. The assizes are now holding in the ne# built court-house, which is large and spacious, with a dome in the roof, and is well constracted to convey the sound of the pleaders' voices to the audience. The gaol is contained, under the same roof. Court-houses and gaols in this coon- ' try are mostly large, and well constracted and convenient. A number of Irishmen, Orangemen and Catholics, under trial for rioting. The land in the immediate vitiinily of the town is but inferior, indeed in many places nothing but bare rock, and large loose uncovered stones ; but I am told there are very fine tracts a few miles back. No gardens of any account, for the above reason. Peaches, I am informed, will not thrive here. Sept. 10.— Left Kingston in the steam-boat for York, cabin I, OR hearty good-feeling of my lome of the haughty super- md the impudence of pam- lU supplied with meat, fruit, le, and only lOd. per bushel \pples Is. 6d. per bushel. , brought from Niagara and various prices, from 6d. to . Beef 4d, per lb. Great thistle hereabout, and seed ) be no means taken to pre- them before their seeding this country in a few years, id here literally cover the ts, with produce, run from I of staves and lumber from au Canal is commenced a vill greatly benefit, particu- il only. It at first was in- h for schooners and steam- ;kly hereabouts : fevers and imb agues, which are the I been very prevalent. The n entirely stopped by them lather comes on ; the neigh> cutting is swampy, with a I. three nights the aurora bo- been remarkably brilliant w holding in the aeib built 1 spacious, with a dome in id to convey the sound at ice. The gaol is contained ises and gaols in this coun- anstructed and convenient, men and Catholics, under e immediate vii;inity of the lany places nothing but bare itones ; but I am told there Iwck. No gardens of any Reaches, I am informed, will e steam-boat for York, cabin KO EHIORATION. 99 passage 45s. and boarded, on deck 13s. 6d. and find your- self; the same to Niagara and Queenston. Got up part of the bay of Quinties, and called at the small village of Bath to take in two passengers. This bay is fifty miles long, and quite narrow, formed by a chain of islands along one side, (the isle of Kanti is the largest), and the main land on the other. It is beautifully varied and picturesque, with gentle slopes to the water's edge, and pretty thickly settled and cleared ; farm-houses every little way, strikingly like '.he Delaware river in the State of that name. America can boast of ae noble bays, rivers, and lakes, as the world produces. The weather of late has been fine and pleasant, and generally so through the season ; very few unpleasant hot days, and rather a cool summer. Sept. 12.— Arrived in York. The schooner Michigan, t taken fire, and we towed beach, so that but little of IB just over here in Niagara ly for murdering hii wife, intry as yet, and I trust it y being executed in a more ■eason in a more judicious b England. ) young Americans, training ing the Falls, and the battle ither for (he last fortnight oldish, but no rain of any It of the Canada Land Com- I the Grand River and near and chiefly by old country om South America, whither it dissatisfied. Roads are canal is talked of. A town ceding fast, which is named al Family, that being their VIII. AND MODES OF CULTl- IRIOINAL 8ETTLKR8, DE- CANADA TO GREAT BRI- miOINAL EXTENT OF THE RESTS FRODUCK OF THE ND PROFITS OF A FARM ten and dry, and mills could a wet cold spring folluwbd. ithout a snow covering, hurt the ground (indeed, every in general in this countr> ), made it stool, or tiller, and dry weather caused it to thin in the grain. Hvre spring, in conjonction with NO RMIQIATION. 101 a partner, erecting a saw mill, to saw black walnut-tree fo* furniture. The summer of 1828 various and changeable ; some very hot days, but generally pleasant, with showers. The wheat crop, throughout the two provinces, and the northern and western States, is a very inferior one, and I believe, in some measure, so in England, which has caused it to rise hers to 4«. 6d. in the west, and 6«. or 7s. in the east and Lower Canada. Indian corn is excellent, and also all other spring crops, and hay. 7'he scarcity of wheat has caused cash to be given for it by the merchants in all parts of the provinco ; and in the London district, where the crops of wheat are tolerably good, numbers of fresh storekeepers have started, the consequence is, the fall of merchandize full one-third, particularly in dry good*. A general election this summer, which occurs every four years, if ao^ sooner dissolved. At the one for the county of Middlesex, where there was a spirited opposition continued the whole week (which is the extent allowed by law) without any great advantage on either side, no vulgar abuse was used; in other respects it wes carried on similar to ours in England, drinking, occasional fighting, &c. ; the latter of which arose not from political quarrels, but private drunken squabhl«|., I have sometimes read of travsllers in this country being in danger of their lives, through the woods being oo fire all around them ! but I believe they have, fortunately, alwaya been able to escape to tell the wonderful stories. The fact is, it is only the leaves, and rotten logs, that take fire in the woods ; and it is almost needltAs to add, there is no personal risk from them whatever, the smoke only being a little annoying. But if the wind should be brisk in a dry time, feacM, and sometimes buildings, are io danger of these run3in(i; fires. Bees thrive remarkably well, often producing three or four tarn sopietiqies more swarms from one hive ; they gather a good deal of honey from the woods, and there are often, swarms fly into the woods and Uke up their abode in a hollow tree, which the settlers chop down, and take their honey at the proper season. Honey is worth from three penpe half-penny to five pence per pound. Many of the Canadians, Americans, bud settlers are rather improvident and wasteful; this, I think, may be traced to habits, in> duced by the peculiar circumstances in which they were I. I tl 102 EMIORATION, OR unavoidably placed at the first settlement of the country ; and like all other habits, not easily shaken off. i The public prints at this period more than hinted that Great Britain intended giving up this fine province to the i United States for an equivalent ; and although many persons m deemed the apparent inattention of the government to the importance of Canada, a sanction to the rumour, it was too absurd to be seriously thought of by any reflecting person. Daring the late war, the noble stand made by the inhabit tants, shewed the value they placed upon British laws and protection, and proved that they do not want a separation, if treated with justice and liberality ; they quickly fire, if any attack is made on their freedom and privileges, but they are as loyal as any county in England. At the commencement of the late war, the province was invaded by the Americans in great force, who had the choice of points of attack : they burnt several places, and expected an easy conquest, from the un- prepared state of defence ; yet with scarcely 1 000 regular troops, and undisciplined militia, drawn from a population of 50,000 men, (scarcely one to a square mile) they guarded a line of 500 miles, and eventually repelled their assailants. The conduct of the Americans in that war has drawn the bonds of con- nexion closer to England, and the additional population, cultivation, resources, commerce, and revenue of the coun- try, will become of such importance, as to render the pos- sessors of Canada virtually sovereigns of the sea ; therefore to yield this province to " the most restless and ambitious nation on the globe," would be to enable them to become conquerors of lul our other possessions in America and the West Indies, and render it unnecessary for them to sup- plicate a favour from any power in the world. There are ample proofs that the lakes and bodies of water in these extensive countries, have covered a much larger '' space than they now occupy ; for the mountain, as it is generally called, which runs l^ Queenston to Ancaster (and onward north-west) within a few miles of the south of the head of Lake Ontario, approaching it at its extreme point, is evidently an original Imnk of Ontario. The beds of gravel and sand, in courses, the washed muddy clay, and indeed the sub-soil in general, between the mountain and the present boundary of the lake, as well as the off-sets and broken fragments that tumble from the mountain sides, and the level table land above, all coincide to prove the fact. How ht thto ■ |l|l < i H ll ll,« l [ll >« ION, OR t settlement of the country ; asily shaken off. teriod more than hinted that up this fine province to the t ; and although many persons ion of the government to the lion to the rumour, it was too t of by any reflecting person. le stand made by the inhabi- placed upon British laws and ly do not want a separation, if ity ; they quickly fire, if any n and privileges, but they are land. At the commencement IS invaded by the Americans in of points of attack: they burnt 1 easy conquest, from the un- th scarcely 1 000 regular troops, n from a population of 50,000 nile) they guarded a line of 500 their assailants. The conduct has drawn the bonds of con- nd the additional population, rce, and revenue of the coun- tance, as to render the pos- ereigns of the sea ; therefore ) most restless and ambitious be to enable them to become ossessions in America and the unnecessary for them to snp- !r in the world, the lakes and bodies of water have covered a much larger : for the mountain, as it is y Queenston to Ancaster (and Bw miles of the south of the ihing it at its extreme point, Ontario. The beds of gravel ed muddy clay, and indeed the he mountain and the present 1 as the off-sets and broken ) mountain sides, and the level ) prove the fact. How far this XO EMIGRATION. 103 original bank has extended on the States' side, I have not the moans of knowing, — but it is the same at Lockfort, where the locks are situated, on the Erie Canal. It is possible the head of the Mohawk and Hudson River wern within its boundary ; and perhaps the tremendous Kaaukill mountains formed the outline on that side. In Canada it may bo traced a considerable distance with the eye from tho lake. This bank is in some places more than 3U0 feet high. At the back of Kingston, thirty or forty feet, or periiaps more, above the present high water-mark of the lake, tiiero are places where the rock is not only quite bare of soil, but the interstices washed out, and chasms have been also made, evidently by the washing of the water over tliis part, ex- actly similar to the rock at the bottom of the lake, near Fort Erie, which is often laid bare by a strong east wind blowing the water back up the lake. The water in the lakes this winter has fallen to the gene- ral level, or rather lower, which may be attributed to the extraordinary dryness of the fall and winter, and the almost constant westerly winds, which have blown m much of the water down, and consequently out of the lakes. So dry has it been, that now, at the latter end of January, therv has been so little rain or snow that the swamps are as com* pletely dry as they were during the last summer, and mills cannot grind on many of the creeks for want of water : the season, for mildness and pleasant clear weather, was hardly ever known to be equalled, except four years ago. It is generally believed that the seasons are much more temperate of late years than at the first settlement of the province. In December last, a large piece of the rock over which the water pours at the Niagara Falls, g»f« way ; the noise and shock, it is said, were heard and felt at Cbippawa. It has somewhat altered its appearance; the horse-shoe is now deeper and more circular. Ooi. 10. — Sailed again in a schooner for the west, from Fort Erie, late at night ; as high a wind came on as | almost ever witnessed. Our little vessel bounded off the rolling surges, without shipping any seas ; but our sails being old. all gave way, and at day-light we had not a single sail left ! The consequence was, we were fast drifting ashore in a diirect line for a reef of rocks, that run out near a mile from » point of land ; we vmi every exertion to round this point, 1.2 104 Trow, OK M tlMM WM a good liftrbour there (or anchorsg wher* nnmbtra of ■cboenen had 'ready run ,) und thr* .> steam boata ; ooe of the former stuck for a moment on \u point, Imt the iwella washed her over. As we found we couid rt'^t aceoapUah our object, we had no alternative, but to pot the veiMi about, and run ashore on the sand beach, inst above tb« reef, which waa done in a very favourable spi on ap- proaching the shore, the swella were so large and bl •-t. that her stern waa raised, and her bowa driven under wat but on atriking the bottom, she rebounded; knd after at ing AO or three times, waa driven close to the beech ; so that watching the retreat of the waves, we all jumped out without being above our kneea in water. We then instantly turned too at our merchandize, both sailora and paaaengers, the latter being the owners of the goods on board ; nearly half we had accompliahed, when through hunger, and fatigue in the water, we had to deaiat awhile, and procure other help from the neighbouring aettlera ; twenty or thirty of whom can« before night, and we then soon cleared the reasel of the remaining gooda, which were considerably damaged by tbe water breaking over the veaael into the hold, and aa the roUins had aprung some of the planka on her aide. -1 We had to remain a week in the neighbourhood, until ■■•Hiir scbooMr waa procured to take ua off. After clear- ing the vMMit dw waa driven "high and dry" as they term it, being on the lubaiding of the atorm aixteen or eighteen yardb from tbe water; forty or fifty handa were Cieured, and tiMtfcaael raiaedon blocks, to have her planka tened and ai ji l d , ^hich waa done in ten or twelve dnya, and abe waft^upce more launched into her element. Several Bcboonan Ifiii driven aabore from their anchon in vnrioaa parte of ttl lake, and one of them quite into tbe wood, so violent wan the atorm ; but I have heard of no total wrecks. Arrived safe at Port Stanley or Kettle Creek, where there are two piers Juatfiniabed, to keep thesuid from blocking the mouth of the river ; but it ia ao much expoMd> that the entire accomfriishment ia very doabtftil. Lake Erie also baa had a more extreoM boundary than at tbe preaa«t time, which is particularly evident at both ends of it, and aa hifh up aa Long Point, fron the lower end, and naaa-ly or quite acroas to Lake Ontario. I ahoaU anp^ poae, by tbe aandbanka and other evident former boundarifa, mmmmummmi' row. Oft th«r0 for «Boh«r«g where !ady run steam ( for a moment on Mi point, , At we found we could n'X no alternative, but to pat tho 1 the sand beach, inst above rery favourable ipi on ap- were so large and bI. ^t, that owe driven under wai but ibouuded; knd after at in^ 'en cloee to the beech ; so e waves, we all jumped out in water. We then instantly both sailors and passengers, r the goods on board ; nearly 1 through hunger, and fatigue while, and procure other help I ; twenty or thirty of whom en soon cleared the reesel of ere considerably damaged by reasel into the hold, and aa ' the planks on her side, in the neighbourhood, until to take us off. After clear- n "high and dry" as they ing of tho storm sixteen or forty or fifty hands were on blocks, to have her planks was done in ten or twelve launched into her element. ashore from their anchors in one of them quite into the \ ; but I have heard of ao Port Stanley or Kettle Creek, Dished, to keep the sand from but it is ao moeh espoeed, is very doubtAiF. re extreme boundary than at icularly evident at both ends Point, frona the lower end, kke Ontario. I should snp^ ir evident former boundaries, NO EMionATior. 105 m I that the water in Lake Erie has stood thirty or forty feet big than now. The Indians have a tradition, that both lake^ t'ormerly joined. Thih 1 (1S28) has been unusually sickly at the lower part ot > province, particularly near the shores of Lake Ontario, . posed to bo in conaequenco of the very extraor- dinary higli water in tho likes thin season,* being three or four feet higher th n was < ver known before on both tho lakes; but the generally higl. hanks of Erie prevented any ill effects. There haa been a r< uort that the high water was caused by the 'ireakiu^. away ot some j o tion of tho land- barrier in the n i betu ''a Lak< Superior and Huron. A/oy 1, 1829. -Wintc raild.d , and open till the middle of February, wh^n wo I J a hi. ' snow and some sharp frost, but no rain and thi frost nu steady ; indeed, only a few days sleighing togethc -wTisi*! »lly, till the latter end of March, when tho snow "ftt^oly few showers of ain came {\utm the swamps have not been filled c) * tin 7«/y 18.— The month of Mn therm, as high as 86" at timet: very rapidly. June, and up ti sant weather; therm. 10° belo» kinds of crops good, particularly t as the Americans term it, and o There is a great variety of tim sketch of the most valuable, and oiled, is subjoined. It generally ground, from one to six or eight u Ipvt^ — White oak, ood for shipbuilding, staves, and iomnber for expurta- on, wheelwrights, coopers, &c. RnMipl swamp oak, fit for 1 tils and other inferior purposes, bat bad to burn. Pine, tor shingle boards and other luq)))ar, building, &c. Black walnut, cherry and curled mapk, for ( 'inetwork. Young hi< kory, for flails, axe-handles, handspi. . s and horsewhips, hoops, &c. Basswood (lime-tree or linden), used by coach and chair makers, for its lightness, and for bars instead of * It is generally asurted and believed, t]iat the water in the lakes litet annually for seven successive yem*, and th<:n gradually sinks that number, alternately. That it has bien rising the last two years, is a fiut. oared off; and some 8t of April ; but the ■ipring. .tther hot throughout: ich brought on the crops pret nt time, cool, plea- 'lat if was in May. AU ' vheac, which is elegant, ry superior quality. in this (Mqiintory : ashort tiyraich it is ap- f0ej thick on the i t i«mmmii > *!* » '" 106 XHIOIIATIOV, OR gate*,— holes being made Jn the posts to let them Inside, Which are used in the new settlements : basswood bark, for rojjes. Butternut-tree and cedar, for bar-poets, &e. Sngar maple and two other sorts, for firewood. Chestnut and white wood, for boards, and the former, with two •"" '"^ •Wrts of ash and hickory, for rails. Hemlock and oak bark, for tanning. Buttonwood (sycamore), beech, !lf'Vs^'**' *'"' *''** '°''^'' ^"'^^' *^° **"■*•' kjoust, balm or Gilead (very hrge), sassafras, juniper, tamrisk, Ac. ittea here, in general, are not so tough as in England, except those, that stand open and exposed. The method pursued, on going into the woods (or bush, as It 18 termed> to settle, is, to clear a proper site for a house, and cut logs for that purpose into proper lengths. This can be done In a week by one person. He then invites his neighbours to raise it, which they wiU do in a day. He has then to build a chimney ; the bottom of stones, the top wattled with small lathwood, and phtstered with tem- pered clay J the hearth to be laid with stones, if bricks are not DMde in the neighbourhood. [They are made in all me old settled parts, and sold at about from 9S». to 30». f>r thousand.] Boarded floor,— the boards to be procured at a saw-miU, if one be nearj if not. some split and hewed J^ Will answer the purpose.* If the settter arrives on U* hauls the lojn tato heUfM) Mn^eight in each, with a yoke of oxen, •ad •.hiM or two liptlp J he then bums them, as well as the brush heaps, and preserves the ashes, if a potashery be in the neighbourhood, t Observe, when felling the trees. * Saw and griit mUla CMt from 180/. to 600/. in eracting, accoxainir to the expense m making the dam, and the manner in which tley are finished. A single saw, with plenty of wcter, will cut from 800 to 2i)00 feet pet day, according to the water-power and the kind of wood, which sells at the milU at from 20i. to 35i. per 1000 feet superficial mewwK. t Atht, or eariy in the summer, c>nnd for potatoes, and com the trees down about four cuts them into fourteen foelt into bt-uth heap8> hauls (he each, with a yclce of oxen, then bums them, as well as the ashes, if a potashery be ve, when felling the trees. L to 6001. in erecting, «eco).iiiiig nd the manner in which tL«y ate wcter, will cut Cram 800 to 2t)00 wer and the kind of wood, which it 1000 feet raperficial measure, ittle log houses made on U>« ipot 1 the winter, to merehanli, at M. n water, and boil die Ije nntil Ij^lo be iold at from 9i. to let. KO EUIOAATIOV. 107 to bring them down alongside each other as much as posn sible, and their heads where you make the brush heaps ; and he careful they do not fall on yourself, for should one lodge on another that is standing, it is dangerous get- ting it down, to one unacquainted with the business ; be-* sides, the boughs breaking, are often propelled back with great force. There are too often people killed by trees in new settlements, where several are at work together, tiaA all new bc^nners. Plant the com and potatoes withoot ploughing, as before described. Now clear more land in the same way for wheat, to be sown in the fall j and after* wards some for oats, next spring, for tlie cattle — each to be only harrowed in, without any ploughing. Settlers generally sow Timothy grass among the wheat or oats, but red ch>ver is far preferelrie by itself or mixed with the former, or (could it be procured) good rye or vernal grass. White or Dutch clover generally springs up in a year or two, spon- taneously on some land, yet perhaps it would he better to sow it if it could be procured, as it would come immediately^^ and be more uniform. A good chopper will chop an acre or ucnre of moderately heavy timber in a week, and in making a bee for logging, four or five acres can be drawn into heaps in « day, by giving about 4«. or 5s. worth of whiskey and something to eat ; but of course you must assist at the bee$ of others if required. There are generally plenty of villing to go to bees, for the sake of the oompu| 'wbiskey, and frolic at night. They work br ~ beet, and in good humour, striving against oadij To a person who is about to settle on ontire : would recommend the following systew: afta»^ a few acres in the immediate vicinilj^iB isM is intended to be built, and all round, thai ||| i i ii tM i^ standing may be at sufiksient distaaoe to be oot«*llsn||li of falling on it, and a small piece fonoed off for catde to Ha in at night, out of the same danger, in windy weather ; then oat down, on ten or fifteen acres, the small and decayed treat per ewt. Pricei vary acoonlinv to the demand in Engiratd. Whea potadi bring! a good price, and die land to be cleared ha* thoet aorti of timbv grawing on it the moat poper for the pntpose, the aahsa wiQ often pay for clearing the land. If not preserved at all, huid can be Ui«d, to be chopped, logged, liatmd, and fenced, at from 46*. to 63(. peraeie. ^a?™'H!S!S™" «i^ ff 108 ■M,'m J-afc^WiiMHH -Ag.-Mj.;-.-.i, -iJ»i.j^a.^>y~|..y.^^^j i^ -j^ EMIGRATION, OR and underbrush, bum them, and girdle the remainder of the trees ; sow this ground with wheat earlj in the fall, or part with oats in the spring, and with them clover, and a small quantity of grass seeds mixed ; the clover grass to be mowed Ihe first year or two, and grazed afterwards. Do the same the next year with some more, for six or seven yean in succession, and likewise clear a small piece quite o|^ for corn and potatoes, cabbages, &c. in front of the hoaae, and next to the road or street. In about six or seven years the roots of the trees will be rotten, and some of the girdled ones fallen; then begin and chop down ten or fifteen acres of these girdled trees, yearly, in a dry time, felling them across each other to break them into pieces ; put fire into them :n various parts of the field, and it will burn most of them up ; what little may be left unconsumed, must be collected into heaps and burnt. It is necessary to keep a watch over the fences while this is going on, that they do not take fire. After this you may plough and plant what you please, as generally the ground will be in pretty good condition. This system is pursued in some plains, and ought to be more generally adopted, particularly the first few years of entering upon an entire wild farm, on account of the little trouble at a time there is so much else to do. But some object, and say there is too much danger that the cattle will '/be killed by the falling of the girdled trees, and the fence* also broken. To which I answer, cattle need not be near thein, only a little in the fall of the first two years, as the clover and grass will be mown for hay ; and they may be put there oi^lyria still weather afterwards, and in the day time ; and as tollfefe fences, after cutting out the decayed standing trees, and a few of those that stand near, and have an inclination towards them, there will be but few, if any, rails broken by their falling; and if there should be a few, they can soon be replaced, as one man will cut and split five or six rods of fence in a day, and put it up, if the tim- ber be good. In choosing a farm, or lot of wild land, or indeed, any land in this country, it should always be first ascertained if there be plenty of good rail timber growing thereon, such as oak, hickory, ash, cedar, chestnut, pine, butternut, cherry, and black walnut; but good trees of the two latter kind, I would never use for that purpose, aa they now are useful, and will be in a few years very Tslnable, for » ■" w ■i,;;iwr ii ' i i'iM iii -■>S w;ifinfcfiiii'iii'i"ctv' )N, OR nd girdle the remainder of \i wheat early in the fall, or tnd with them clover, and a ixed ; the clover grass to be and grazed afterwards. Do ome more, for six or seven ise clear a small piece quite >bage8, &c. in front of the street. In about six or seven be rotten, and some of the ;in and chop down ten or •ees, yearly, in a dry time, to break them into pieces ; krts of the field, and it will tie may be left unconsumed, d burnt. It is necessary to while this is going on, that is you may plough and plant be ground will be in pretty me plains, and ought to be ularly the first few years of irm, on account of the little luch else to do. But some luch danger that the cattle ' the girdled trees, and the I answer, cattle need not be all of the first two years, as >wn for hay ; and they may ther afterwards, and in the after cutting out the decayed sc that stand near, and hare sre will be but few, if any, id if there should be a few, one man will cut and split r, and put it up, if the tim- rm, or lot of wild land, or y, it should always be first of good rail timber growing ash, cedar, chestnut, pine, Jnut ; but good trees of the iM for that purpose, aa they ftw years very ntlnable, for NO EUIOBATION. 109 furniture, &c,, as there are, comparatively speaking, but few in the country, and none much below the head of Lake Ontario, of walnut. Nor would I recommend wasting fine straight white oak that is growing near any water commu- nication, as it is valuable for staves, &c. And the sugar maple tree, if growing in what is called boshes, that ia a number together, should never be wantonly destroyed, as it ia a useful and valuable appendage to a farm. If the above system be adopted, there will be but very little pkmgh* ing the first few years, and only one yoke of oxen be re> quired. But should it be thought prudent to clear all the timber off the land at once, it should always, as much as possible, be sown the first or second year with clover, or clover and grass seeds, to lay until the stumps are rotten befofB being ploughed ; when fire should be put into each stump, and the greater part will burn up. Near towns and villages, almost all kind of wood is valuable as cord wood for fuel, and when drawn in, sold at from 6s. 9tL to 9s. or 1 05. per cord. Good pine, growing near a lake, or river com- municating with one, is becoming valuable. Near the Ottar Creeks, land can be had cleared for the pinee growing thMiMB. I have sometimes heard it asserted in this ooontty, that a farm cannot be cultivated to a profit in America, if the whole of the labour done on it be hired, which I am con- fident is erroneous. That some are not, in the way they are managed, I readily admit; but that, under judicio^ management, they cannot be, — my little experience coiP' vinees me of the contrary. To make it intelligible, I wfi| state the whole hired expenses, and the value of the pi^ duce of a small farm for i^ year ; and if it can be proved that a profit, however small, may be made on die cnltivatiim of seventy acres only, of cleared land, when the labour is a^ hired, it will appear evident that a worthy fkrmer and two or three sons doing all, or only part of this work, mtut b« improving his circumstances, and that a larger farm may be managed to a proportionate profit. A form of good land can be purchased pa, or about Talbot Street, or almost any where in the westerft part of the province, and. the Iwck setdements ot the middle parts, at from 2i dollars (Il«. 3d.) to 5 dollars (22s. 6d.) per acre, and at bnt a moderate advance, exclusive of buildings, according to situation, &c.f in any part of the province. I hare calculated the state- ment in dollars at 4s. 6d. sterling. ■m 110 EMtORATION, OR h.«J. ^ T""' 'Oc'ewed} «"'!' a good log. or small frame hoUM, or barn, and a voung orchard. &c. ; 200 acres, say at 4 dollars, or 18.. per acre. 800 .follars, or 180/. ;-100 dollars, or 22/. 10.. paid ™M°-!?r" -^5 P>irchase. and 22/. 10.. yearly, and interest until paid, of the remainder. A person with 200/. may settle very comfortably ZZLmZ' filter '" ""'""^ *'"'«""8'' ""'• '^' ^''"'"^'"K A» Stock, 4c., two yoke of oxen, one well broken yoke, 46 doUan, one yoke steers, unbroken, 35 dollars . . Threeoxchains, 1 2 dollars; two yokes, 3 dollars ; sled, 5 dollars A horse (or brood mare) to rule, go to mill, &c., plough between potatoes, corn, &c Light Jersey waggon, second hand (a new one would" be 65 do ars), with spring seat, both for pleasure and profit, 50 dollars ; harness, 10 dollars ; and saddle, 16 dollars . 1 wo ploughs, 18 dollars ; harrows, 6 dollars ; two axes, 6 dol- lars ; hoes, &c. 3 dollars .... Six cows at 15 dollars each, six calves and heifers'at 5 dollars* i wo sows, 6 dollars; thirty store pigs at 1 dollar each Twentysheepatljdollarlach . Geese, fowls, &c., 5 dollars ...''* Household furniture— three beds and bedding, 50 dollars'; tables, 10 dollars ; crockery, 10 dollars ; pots and kettles, 10 dollars ; clock, 13 dollars ; common chairs, J dollar each : painted A\ mdsor ones, one to two dollars each, say 10 dollars 1 17 1 ne nrst deposit, towards payment of farm .... loo 148/. 10.., or 660 ds. 80 20 50 75 36 26 5 One year's outgoings and expenses. Girdling ten acres of woods, clearing out the underbrush and fern, 6 dollars per acre . . Sowing and harrowing of ditto .!!!"' Ten acrea wheat sown after peas, ploughing 2 doUkrs per acre" oeett M above, 9 dollars ; sowing and harrowing 5 dollars . Cradling and binding the 20 acres, at 1 1 dollar per acre Carting and stacking, 23 dollars ... ThrMhing360bu«hela, at one-tenth of a dollar . Sujppoie ten acres of clover sown the year before with oate at 7 lbs. Mr acre (often only three or four lbs. sown) . gWngtogether, 1 dollar (it wanting no making), and haul' ffl^together. If dollar .... . Mowin|[ the second crop for seed, &c. . Thruhmg the seed, two bushels produce per acre, at I'doUa^ per bushel . . . \ . '^ . \ " 1 1 j!!fi' PJ°"K'«^ ^"1 P*"". 2 ^loHars per acre (often done for !f J doffi ^^^r- ^-^"•^P'^^Uy only two). 50 9 6 20 14 30 23 27 8 36 36 20 36 wi ' tf ' uwm ww ww irijiiniii ON, OR witli a good log, or small frame &c. ; 200 acres, say at 4 dollars, . ;— 100 dollars, or 22/. lOi. paid II. lOi. yearly, and interest until 200/. may settle very comfortably uy outgoings ; and the following e well broken yoke, 46 .35 dollars . 3 dollars ; sled, 5 dollars to mill, &c., plough [a new one would be 66 pleasure and profit, 60 iddle, 15 dollars . loUars ; two axes, 5 dol- • • • . . and heifers at 5 dollars at 1 dollar each 1 bedding, 50 dollars; irs ; pots and kettles, 10 B chairs, J dollar each ; lars each, say 10 dollars arm , . , . DoUara. 60 20 60 75 32 120 36 25 5 117 100 148/. 10».. or 660 dg. s and expenses. out the underbrush and per acre), at i dollar • • • • • [hing 2 dollars per acre larrowing 6 doAars . 1 1 dollar per acre • • • • • Fa dollar . rear before with oata at )ur lbs. sown) . »y, I dollar per acre ; no making), and haul- • • • . . • • • • , » per acre, at 1 dollar )er acre (often done for 8 (generally only two). <<)Mui 50 9 6 20 14 30 23 27 8 36 3& 20 36 no EMIGRATION. Brought forward . 311 ds. Sowing and harrowing, 5 dollars; thrashmg 50 bushels, 3 dollars 8 [The remainder, 160, give to hogs in the straw unthrashed, if the straw be not eood for sheep and cattle (t. «. not got well) ; but if good, I would' recommend it being given to the sheep, lightly thrashed, as the very best food to be had here for them, and which they are very fond of J. Four acres of oats for calves, sheep, milch cows and horse, the seed three bushels per acre, at \ dollar per bushel, 3 dollars; ploughing, &c. 10 dollars . . , . . 13 Six acres com, ploughing twice, 18 dollars ; planting and har- rowing, 4 dollars ; two noeings, 9 dollars ; ploughing between . therows, 2 dollars ; husking, &c. 12 dollars ; hauling and thrashing, and seed, 10 dollars 65 Eight acres in Timothy, or other grass, for hay, mowing and stacking, as for clover 24 Twelve acres in sheep pasture Two acres for potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and othur vege- tables for house (chiefly), sheep, calves, &c.; hiring a stout ^ ^ boy at 6 dollars per month, and board for a year, to attend -' * cattle, milk, &c 100 To the above expenses may be added one year's interest of the Surchase money, yet unpaid ; being 6 per cent, on 700 oUars 42 Total 663 Produce of the 70 acres. Twenty acres of wheat, at eighteen bushels per acre (some- times thirty), at | dollar per bushel .... 270 Ten acres of clover seed, at two bushels per acre, atid seven dollars per bushel 140 Six acres of Indian corn, at 26 bushels per acre, 150 buchels, at i dollar . . . . . .76 Thirty store pigs * (for fattening next season) . . 30 Thirty fat hogs, weighing,' at least, 200 lbs. each (or one _ barrel), thirty barrels, at 12 dollars per barrel . . 360 ' "*' Six cows, butter and cheese for summer . . .60 A yoke of fat oxen, 60 dollars (besides u cow or two killed for the house) 60 Twenty lambs 20 dollars, and twenty fleeces of wool 20 dollars 40 . Geese, feathers, eggs, fowls, &c. . . , . . 10 ''^ One year's farm produce . . . 1046 Ditto expenses . . ... . 363 Surplus 482 * Five bushels of Indian corn, or peas, will fatten a fresh store hog, Qi keep one through the wint«r ; they get their living in the woods and pastures during the summer, also during the winter, when nuts are plentiful, which generally happens three years out of five. .# m ff 112 SMIORATIOM, OR With the beef and vegetables allowed abore, 282 dollara will keep a family of four or five persons well darioff the year, leaving a clear profit of 200 dollars, or 45/., be- sides the improvement of the farm ; and if hemp or tobacco were made part of the productions, the profits, probably, would be larger. No one that is well acquainted with Cancida will, I think, say that I have made a partial state- ment Some may think 1 have stated the number of fat hogs on BO small a farm in one season, ^too high, as there are but « very few farmers that fatten so many. I alk>w there are not many; yet as there are some that do, and as I have allowed suiiicient grain for the purpose, if there be any nuts at all in the woods, that objection, of course, falls to the ground. It would be to the interest of the; Canadian farmers, particularly those in back settlements, to pay more attention than they now do, both to the breed- ing and feeding of hogs. There is too little spirit and taste for improvements, for want of a proper stimulus. As there is comparatively but little capital vested in farming pursuits, there are no leading characters to introduce, or excite, a spirit of improvement. For this purpose I would strongly recommend the immediate establishment of agri- cultural societies in each district. They have been esta- blished in lower Canada, Nova Scotia, and New Bruns- wick, as well as in the United States, with very general snccess and benefit to the community ; and as the Upper Canadians have an emulative spirit, I am confident f heir in- troduction would prodi le a spirit of enterprise equal to that of any country. If farms were set apart in each district for the purpose, and conducted by a competent person, the moat approved System of farming introduced, and the im- proved breeds of cattle, sheep, &c., selected and imported, with superior implements of husbandry, and clover, grass, and other seeds cultivated, with an annual exhibition and sale' by auction of the kame, and appropriate premiums given for agricultural improvements, &c. the best effects would cer- tainly result to the whole community, and particularly to the agrisnhural part of it. And if these forms, stock, &c. were judiciously arranged, I think they might be made even a profitable concern. Hemp, tobacco, and clover seed, may be made enri^binf staple articles in the western part of the province, and to the advantage of the trade of Great Britain. The finest riOM, OR les allonred abore, 282 dollars or five persons well daring it of 200 dollars, or 451., be- rarm ; and if hemp or tobacco ictions, the profits, probably, that is well acquainted with I hare made a partial state- we stated the number of fat le season, too high, as there liat fatten so many. I allow lere are some that do, and as in for the purpose, if there Is, that objection, of course, d be to the interest of the; those in back settlements, to now do, both to the breed- here is too little spirit and nt of a proper stimulus. As le capital vested in farming characters to introduce, or t. For this purpose I would jdiate establishment of agri- rict. They hare been esta- ra, Scotia, and New Bruns- i States, with very general nmunity ; and as the Upper lirit, I am confident their in- ■it of enterprise equal to that re set apart in each district by a competent person, the ng introduced, and the Im* , &c., selected and imported, isbandry, and clover, grass, an annual exhibition and sale >ropriate premiums given for the best effects would cer- unity, and particularly to the these forms, stock, &c. were !iey might be made even a s«d, may be made enri«biiiy )art of the province, and to Great Britain. The finest NO BMIORATION. 113 clover seed can be raised, and, by the agency of thrashinir machines, brought to market early enough to be shipped to Europe in the same season. There is a species of wild cotton growing about the fields, which, of an improved kind, perhaps, might be of some service in stuffing mattrasses, *c. or to the manufacturer. Every person must perceive the great advantages of the Fovlnces of Canada over the United States, with regard to a market for the produce of the two countries. Canada can export to Great Britain timber, grain, whiskey, pork, hemp, clover, tobacco, and any other produce at all times, on paying a trifling duty ; while the States often cannot export some of the above articles to Britain at all, except through Canada; and thon, And in every other cese, by paying higher duties than the Canadas. ■' r / o b CHAPTER IX. DRPAUTUBE FROM UPPER CANADA TO QVEBEC, AND RETURN TO ENGLAND. July 22, 1829.— Left the western part of the province with a vessel load of lumber for the lower part, by the way of Fort Erie and the Falls, landed on the 24th, and forwarded the lumber by Durham boaU to Chippawa, eigfatein miles, to be drawn in waggons acrouj the Portage. August 18. — Arrived at Kingston in a stoam boat from Niagara and York, (a considerable ineux of new store- keepers into York this season), and left it on the 20th for Prescott, down what is called the river, having the main land on the left, broken into numerous little bays and inlets. On the right hand, hundreds of islands of all sizes, from eight or ton miles across, to as many rods only. We some- times passed between two of them, so near each, that an active person could almost leap from the steam boat deck on either hand. These islands are still retained in the hands of government, generally ; and are not inhab.-\ed, being in most places too burren, except on the south uCv^, whe^d some squatters have made clearings, and settled, for nwLing rafts. Stopped a few minutes at some places in our passage down. Brockville is a handsome improriqg village, with two M ?=B=! ^^S3SSi 114 EMIGRATION, OR chnrehes, and a number of good stone-built houses. Stone well fence is a new feature, and well cleared fields appear more like England, than this new country. The land is kindly and gjrod, with a fine slope from half a mile back to the river's edge, which is more than a mile across, and nearly uniform banks. The Canada side appears the best cleared and settled, with large fields of twenty acres each, free from stumps, but not from stones ; and tha grass, although the weather is dry and hot, has a freshness not common at this time of year. Very fine situations as far as Prescott, with good substantial farm houses. August 24. — Arrived at Ogdansburgh, nearly opposite Prescott, on the States side the river, a town much larger than Prescott, but not so thriving, from the latter place being the lowest part of the river that lake-vessels and steam boats can run to ; of course, the produce is landed to be put in Durham boats and batteaux for Montreal, and the passengers go by the same or the stages. The latter run every day in the week, except Sunday, during summer ; steam boats also arrive every day from different parts of the lake and bay of CJuintre. The charge 31s. 6d. to Montreal, 140 miles, by stage and steam boats, in one day. Almost all the villages are commercial ones, and thrive or decay according as traffic and trade increase, or are directed into other channels. When the Rideau Canal is finished, this place will cease to thrive. Houses are built of stone chiefly, and some pretty large. Excellent wharft and warehouses both here and at Broekville, also three churches, and a Methodist meeting houHe, very near each other. The English and Scotch churcties are built exactly of the same pattern, one on each side ; the other is Roman Catholic. Some of the land about Prescott is very good red loam on a lime tone rock, some indifforent, and others bad; sandy banks or swampy hollows, and in places covered with fragments of rock ; the wheat crops are all just in, but corn not near ripe, a fortnight later than in the south-western part of the province. Clover and grass grow on thia loamy soil very luxuriantly, but the farms are not well managed, as there is not much of either skill or capital employed io agriculture, moat other trades and branches of industry, being conducted with more advantage. Snow here last winter was four feet; two and a half at York, and ten oi twelve in the west. iTioN, on good Btone-built houses. Stone ), and well cleared fields appear this new country. The land is le slope from half a mile back to sre than a mile across, and nearly ida side appears the best cleared s of twenty acres each, free from es ; and th? grass, although the las a freshness not common at Gne situations as far as Prescott, houses. it Ogdansburgh, nearly opposite le the rirer, a town much larger thriving, from the latter place the rirer that lake-vessels and ' course, the produce is landed to d batteaux for Montreal, and the I or the stages. The latter run xcept Sunday, during summer ; ry day from different parts of the rhe charge 31s. 6d. to Montreal, earn boats, in one day. Almost ercial ones, and thriTe or decay ide increase, or are directed into e Rideau Canal is finished, this Houses are built of stone chiefly, Excellent wharfs and warehouses ille, also three churches, and a , very near each other. The les are built exactly of the same the other is Roman Catholic. ; Prescott is very good red loam me indifferent, and others bad; Uows, and in places covered with eat crops are all just in, but corn later than in the south-western ver and grass grow on this loamy the farms are not well managed, ther skill or capital employed in rades and branches of industry, re advantage. Snow here last and a half at York, and ten or NO EMIGRATION. I Id >#wwj!i4 i «jya!kj* w . ' ' A considerable number of emigrants arriving up from Mon^ treal, in Durham boats ; all of them going to the upper part of the province, chiefly Highland Scotch and Irish ; some of tolerably decent, respectable appearance, others a picture of squalid poverty. Some have no point fixed as their destination; others have, near some friends come before. One party for Talbot Street, were going to Tur- lington at the head of the lake, when they would have ^00 miles of land carriage to haul their luggage j while by Queenston, Cbippawa, and Lake £rie, there are only eight miles by land. August 30. — Left Prescott for Montreal, with several other passengers in a batteau or Canadian boat, in pre- ference to the stage and steam boats, both for cheapness of passage (4(. 6d. only), — and particularly to see the Rapids, which we bad to go down. The country has a fine appearance along the river, and land appears gocKl, except in a few places. On coming to each Rapid, the boatmen (French Canadians) being Roman Catholics, perform slight and quick acts of ceremonial devotion, the captains or conductors particularly, there being danger in some of them, for, should they not keep directly in the proper cban- nela down these sbosJs, or the boatmen not keep the vessel steady mmI bead-foremost, they are indeed almost certain to be upset and lost. These Rapids are very grand, and repay for once what risk there may be in going down them, and in fine weather, with a good boat and experienced meOi I do not conceive there is much danger. The Long Saut, a rapid of nine miles in length. Is very narrow and swifili} this distance, it ia said, with a light loaded boat and wind - fiivouvable, has beea nka in fifteen minutes, but it took us full doable that time. Croaaed two small lakes, in places qake ahaU^w j steam boaH ply across tbem. Botb side* of th« St. Lawrence are in Cftnada. In Lower Canada th« Iwasea ate all built in the French fashion, and oocnpied by Frekcb Gaaadiant. A hoiwe nearly every hondred yardis aking the river banki, chiefly of one story, with k>ng nxtfa, and on* door in ftont ; two windows on one side of the dsor, and one on the other, and two or three at the ends c^ tbe famso } wid garrets. Many stud built and lath pla»r tared, and eAe» t^vti^ cast and white-washed. Their barns are tfaatclMd, but ia a longh manner ; the Americans call it shinglteg with straw I llie Canadians are tolerably neat If ■f 1 -irr"'flflnirir1.ttr *'r*.i.iiii«> 116 KMIORATIOR, OR few of the lowe.t cla..e.. Jn their persons also ; they are of •peak much Enghsh. We have passed several smart vZ i^Z^dl^^r''- =-:C°™-»". '» Upper Canada. Sta-du- lac and Lachlne in Lower Canada, are pleasantly situated Numbers of Uts and batteaux going up. wWch in th- KkT ^t* P""*"" «°'' •'""^^ with'wra'nJ"oxe„ In some places there are locks to go through in eoinru! avo|d the worst par^. It takes fi% or six dLy." aWoZl Entered Lachine Canal, nine miles above Montreal Thm rn? o'we7t o'^n T'' '^' ''"?'"'' ""P'*" ^ the m^t^lLgelt ana lowest on the river, of any importance It i. .m«li admitting only boaU The fir.t'nigh'T rjut aVhoVS"; althon^I fi. r'° ''"P* •'^ " Dutchman, to sleep; and although the boatmen assured us he was a person of som« Sr''; '!,'«'«'«»«"'«>•« accommodations^ m second night, stopped at Cotu-du-lac. at a French tavern! 13 S.".2k ftrther' ^ t'hJ*''" \ ""'''''"' "-" ««^ i^ " Ck » or .' .^.iTt i "T •*[ ""«•»« <="«»«»>» With a fl,^^ « '•"'''' '''""'' "'««P o° a bed laid on the W^r^ w^MK^ uncommon thing for traveller, in America. Warm weather of late, but some rain and thunder ast 2lh d«r hi *'"' r ''"^Lachine in a c£e "o Um. I it fi.^ one horse, to Montreal ; this was the first F«t.rl. k!J^* &^^ ""^ 'P'"» »f 'he little Canadian or F«nch horse. It « astonishing what heavy weigSThey f.? Q*!!**™"^^.**"'"' "°* haud-ome, thick, iSny wd fat. With hairy feUocks. In carting wood, stone ^^Lh^t town, one perwn will manage thrS or morS^Jito v;ith on« aSr The-'fi^tl"'^" *f* ""'• ^"^ «»»•"" "Slow VcL' 4/ 6d i, di 5 **.!1'"; ' •J*?*?''' •* " Montreal. I pSd 4«. 6d. per day for board and lodging ; but after a few JTr. r «»mov^ to another, with veiy^,^ accommUiZ;.''S 2.. 3rf. per day. Montreal is a large and improving n£c« «d of great tnule. MerchanU S>m the uJJi;"*Sf„^ come here once a year for a supply of merchSdtae for !S coming year, and take the money for the laS ywrWaSS TJ^r^ ^ considerable number of them a^i th^"^ at the present Ume. Some of the streets are ^ZnZ .-■Jl-U-l "T i*"i»riiiwi ■low, OR excepting the boatmen, and a neir penona alM> ; they are of many of them in the country vc paased several smart vil- , In Upper Canada. Cota-du. Jada, are pleasantly situated, rade from the Upper Province. IX going up, which, in the hauled with horses and oxen, to go through in going up, tes 6ve or six days, and some- itreal to Prescott, and two and ! miles abore Montreal. This e Rapids ; the most dangerous ny importance. It is small. It night we put a shore after I Dutchman, to sleep; and us he was a person of some ;commodations. The second at a French tarern ; a good i by travellers, and too late le of us to be cuntent with a (sleep on a bed laid on the ig for trarellert in America, ome rain and thunder last ''* Machine in a caleche, or Montreal ; this was the first nt of the little Canadian or ng what heavy weighu they handsome, thick, bony, and rting wood, stone, &c., about three or more carta with one rst, the others follow cloa* ped at in Montreal, I paid "giDg; but after a few days 7 good accommodations, at ' A?* ""^ improriog place, t» froin the upper province pply of merchandise for the y for the last year's produce iber of them are in the town the streets are too narrow. MRAT 117 particularly St. Paul's Street, in which a great deal of the wholesale business is done ; the footways only three or four feet wide. Some of the streets are tolerably well oaved, others roughly; and M^Adamising going forward in some of them. Houses are mostly of stone, neat, strong, and capacious; and if it were not for their high jharp tinned roofs, would have much the appearance of a large town in England. No private warehouses ; goods are landed on a high made bank, and in some places on the beach of the river, and then hauled up to the warehouses. The immense accu* mulation of ice in the winter, has carried away some ware- houses that had been built. Several vessels from Europe, and steam-boats, are continually coming and going to va- rious parU up and down the river, and such is the opposi- tion by the two companies that run them between Montreal and Quebec, that each has one boat that carries passengers between the two places, 180 miles, in the cabin, and board, for 7s. Gd., and the deck passengers for 6d. each only I The most remarkable attraction in the place is the new Roman Catholic Church, the largest in America, Mid not surpassed in size by a great many in Europe, coverirtg, it is said, an acre of land, and accommodating 1 2,000 people. It is truly a grand stone building, elegantly and sabstantially finished. Sunday, Sept. 7.— At the Catholic Church, about six or seven thousand people. The sermon was in French ; con- gregation not large. I ««s also at the Episcopal ehnrcb ; small and neat ; no sermon. ( also stepped kito the Methodist, and one of the Presbyterian nwetinga, ivhfeli were well boilt places, and had considerable congngMtm ; shops all shnt up, and no business going on. "Ilie first settlers were of course French (belonging to France when first settled), and a considerable portion yet remain so; bat most of the merchants and traders are Americans and Buro- peans—chiefiy Scotch. The sides of the C^anal locks, at Montreal, are boilt of bard cut stone (got somewhere in the vicinity); the bottoms are of the same material, and the locks and the masonry excellent. Two large warehooses not far from its ontlet, and three w four windmilb. The fond- neaa of the French Canadians for windmilb k rather re- maVkable, when the river St. Lawrence, for 100 miles up, is full of rapids, and the water could easily be applied to any kind of machinery. A remarkable high mountain at the back of the town (Mount Royal, or Mont-re-all, as it is 1 m lirtB BETi 118 EMroRATioja, oa here pronounced), from which it dcriree its name : it can only be (ucended in a few placea. It !■ broiien into two headi, and an excellent road passes between them, and round the I ackof it, three or four mile* in length. lu top and sidei are covered with brushwood and small trees. In some places it is nearly a perpendicular rock, with broken fragmenu, and large masses lie tumbled and scattered at iU base. It has evidently been overflown with water, and probably was, afterwards, an island in the original large lake, bounded, perhaps, by the New England and Kaaukill mountains, as before supposed. There are pleasant seats, owned by the merchants, be- tween the town and mountain, and round ihe foot of it. If not for the extremes of climate, this might be considered almost a paradise. Along the public road, round, and over part of the mountain, is a beautiful drive, having a fine firspective view of the town and country in every direction, he race-ground is on one side of the mountain, where the horses are daily training. There is a pack of fox- hounds kept m the neighbourhood of Montreal, and a hunting club established. On their first introduction, the Canadians thought the Europeans were all going mad ; and laughed at the ridiculous idea of being pleased by galloping after a fox ! Large auction sales of merchandise every day, the place full of bustle and business, and but few complaint, ; scores of womon are to be seen daily, ^ng the sides of the river, tbove and below the tower, in the water, washing clothes among the huge stones, on which they beat the clothes with a kind of mallet, instead of rubbing them, and appear to use but little soap— an excellent way for the good of trade, as the clothes are soon pounded to pieces. The two markets are better supplied than most marketo on the continent of North America, and goods reasonably cheap, particularly within these fow years since, as there has been come spirit of enterprise excited by emigration. Attended an agricultural show, and was glad to perceive some interest taken in it by the attendance of farmers (or habitftns) 2 end the inhabitants generally; and although but a small show, there were a few good Leicestershire sheep, and one or two good bulls, but the cows rather indifferent ; a few good hogs, and a number of very useful brood mares and foals, some Canadian, and some English half-blcods. These are very useful institutions, and ought to be more extended mm Tiow, on ti it ilerives its nam« ; it can ices. It ii broken into two I passes between them, and four milek in length. Ita top lahwood and small trees. In pendicular rock, with broken lie tumbled and scattered at in overflown with wnter, and island in the original large B New England and Kaaukill wned by the merchants, be- and round ihe foot of it. If te, this might be considered public road, round, and over iautiful drive, having a fine id country in every direction. I of the mountain, where the ere is a pack of fox- hounds ilontreal, and a hunting club introduction, the Canadians 1 going mad ; and laughed at ased by galloping after a fox ! andise every day, the place 1 but few complaint, ; scores «ng the sides of the river, B water, washing clothes ch they beat the clothes with bing them, and appear to use ay for the good of trade, as pieces. The two markets markets on the continent of isonably cheap, particularly , as there has been come r emigration. Attended an td to perceive some interest :e of farmers (or habil(^) j and although but a small iicestershire sheep, and one >'B rather indifferent ; a few ery useful brood marea and English half-blcods. These 1 ought to be more extended NO EMIORATIOS. 119 and patronised in both provinces. On some conspicuous part of almost every large farm hereabouts, thcro is a wooden cross set up, and ridiculously surmounted by a wooden weathercock. Crossing one of these farms, 1 saw a piece of sward land, manured with common farm dung ; the good effect was equal to any thing I had seen in Eng- land, although it was Wdly spread. A few years back, I am told, people hired others to take it out of the way, to either throw it into the river, or lay it in heaps out of town ! The large quantities of dung neccssarilv made in such a place as Montreal, and the apparently little value set upon it oven now, by the heaps thrown into holes and treading to waste, — the goodness and cheapness of old cleared land, free from slumps (about 51. to 6/. only per ace) in the neighbour- hood, — and the comparative pi'*: 'ow f rice of labour * (30s. to 35s. and board per ■ t\\ t place out as an eligible part for enterprioi.i ' \'- . ■ i some capital, for any kind of produce, and , .-. ' think, for the raising of hemp and clover, an thora ah no taxes. Hemp grows very luxuriantly about yards and fences, and the labour required for manufacturing it for sale may be done in the winter, when other work is scarce, and labourers, of course, plenty ; and as government will puicbase any quantity, and premiums are given, I think it would prove a most profitable speculation. A rope walk in connexion, would succeed excellently. Winter wheat is but little sown in Lower Canada as yet ; but a Canadian informs me iie knew a small piece (his season, that answered extremely well, much better than the i^ring wheat, yet farmers are afraid to try much on account of the severity of the winter ; but I think their fears are groundless, as the snow would preserve it. Several days racing, which were numerously attended. Some good horses, and carried on with con- siderable spirit, with a good deal of betting, and it is said, not a little jockeying. An English horse here, and two or three English jockeys. Houses in the city are covered with tin, cut in diamond shapes, and also the churches. It ii very bright and durable, and the dryness of climate keeps it from rusting ; this, with sheet-iron shutters to the windows and doors, in the best streets, is a great preventive of fire. Skpt. 2. — Was sultry, close, and warm, thermometer 30% some little rain came, and wind changed to the north-west ; and the next morning it was chilling cold, then not much " ^AlMjiA^JjT^rTm m t H if i •"" i i ri i il iM MMiiiiiJhiE^-' 1i^iitfi1MftT«'- hourly pa«ing down the nrer to Quebec, from the upper province. nrf'if ^tiilS'l^^*!!*'' ''•"•Q"«»'««. «t eight o'clock at T'S I ?u ^'V ,/°''" ^**'°° steamer, and arrived at three odock the foJIowing day; distance, 180 miles; pa d 1?, noW^. and tb, scenery in many places along its banks is g«nd. Passed some smart villages and towns; and the wads are thickly studded with long-roofed. neat, white houses; and the churches, with their tin-covered roifs aad appearance. Ft is a pity the river has so many obstructionS the most commercial stream in the world. There is only one slight rapid between Montreal and Quebec (th^SSi^n^ Slffi^ul *^' ^'^i "«"''y '<^00 miles, aKus on ; difficult for large rafts in adrenie winds, its course b^hS narrow, but deep. The tide*inning a little aboveU thire « no rapid at high water. AnticoeS is a vertTi^is and dangerous to navigation, lying across the ga7(. TJehot SEo Mo;;;:.r^^-"' ^^^ -p •>?^-tea»erj^^ portoL?* *™^'-t™'»«' Quebec is of great and growing-im- f^ritw 7^"" ^"*°°' "*"'y ^^^ '^ewe'" have .ifeadv armed, and numbers are daily arriving,- too many iS k!f P/f""'«l a great portion of the best timber beinf brought to market. The consequence is a riMTiHrS of from 50 to WO per cent. The best of-the tSSer J^winl near Uie shores of tiio St. Lawrence and lower p Jt Kakf Ontario, has been brought to market; and when the WZJ S3n!f * "■"?'' r' °P*° '^' »•">" *»» he a fine field fKe t?mr. ' Wercr in the immen*, forest, of suJiiJoJ timber, growing on the shores of Idces Erie and SE and even lake Superior, and their trib^ry»?re«nswJS are inexhaustible for centuries to cornel^ ^ ' ^^^^ Ihe time M not for distant when vessels will be built «« the Upper Lakes, 1600 mile, frem the .la and fretoitS Erie watting the completion of the canals. On VproaJj! wifh?h^^£.x^;^5X- -«" - '^ed along rnss. i|i1B(itiriiijii;(i:i^n ION, OR . ober hourly passing down the T province. )r Quebec, at eight o'clock at earner, and arrived at three itance, 180 miles; paid 18». St. Lawrence is truly called ny places along its banks is illages and towns; and the th long-roofed, neat, white li their tin-covered roofs and the sun, bare an enKvenidg rer has so many obstructions ; 88, otherwise, it would be the world. There is only one nd Quebec (the Richelieu), [)00 miles, and that is only Tse winds, its course being oning a little above it, there icoBta is a very large island, across the golf. Vessels of >wed up by steamers from is of great and growing im- 800 vessels have already arriving,— too many, in- Br in the rivers this spring of the best timber being luence is a rise in price of liest of~th« timber growing ace and lower part of Lake rket ; and when the Upper B will be a fine field for (he imeaw forests of superior !>f lakes Erie and Fuit>n, ir tributary streams, which come. en vessek will be built on >m the sea, and freighted t Indies. Indeed, one is id is now plying on Lake ■e canals. On approach- was lined along its sides KO EMIGRATION. 121 Quebec is situated on a point of land (Cape Diamond), on the north-west side of the river, and opposite to Point Lewis, nine miles above the falls of Montmorency, and five or six above the island of Orleans. The old town is a narrow, in- convenient, and dirty place: it is situated under the im- mense rocks of hard black stone, which rise elmost perpen- dicularly in some places, several hundred feet, nearly all round the Cape; ito length is, extending upwards to Wolfe's I Cove (the place where General Wolfe landed on taking Quebec) two miles, and downward to St. Roche, at the mouth of the St. Charles's River, two miles. Near the latter there are many new wharfs built, some ship-yards, steam, and saw mills, &c. The river St. Charies is a fine stream, running through ar extensive vale of good land, open, cleared, and pretty well cultivated, partly by Scotch and Irish. Viewing this vale from the heights of Abraham, in fine weather, awa\j;ens recollections of a former view of one of the beautiful champaign vales of England. — The Upper Towii is much better built, having wider streets, and is altogether more handsome: it is founded upon the above-mentioned rock, overlooking the Lower Town, the shipping, the country north of the Isle of Orleans, and Point Levi, across the river. The Upper Town is walled in, and is amazingly strong both by nature and art, particularly the citadel, on the highest and outermost point of Cape Diamond, and is still improving. Strangers are not allowed ingress to it, without a ticket. It is a second Gibraltar, and the key of theCanadas. There is a good garrison stationed here, who enliven the place daily with two or three bands of music. There is a small race-ground on the plains. Land in the neighbourhood appears very good, and cultivated chiefly by Scotch, I believe. The grass fields are more luxuriant than I expected, having that deep verdure so natural to England. I have noticed that the pasture land had a fresher appear- ance the lower I came down the province, attributable, per- haps, to the greater dampness of climate ; the approxima- tion to the sea has some efiect, for there have been far more misty, foggy days together since I have been in Quebec, than I have ever seen in the Upper Provinces. The hedges about Quebec are of the native thorn, and grow well ; but they are badly managed, not having ditches to protect them ; and it is evident the people know nothing of improving by f 122 EMIGRATION, OR < cutting and plashing. Dogs are much used for drawing trucks, &c. and it is astonishing what weights they will haul up the steep roads to the Upper Town. As the assizes or courts of justice were open both here and at Montreal, I had an opportunity of witnessing the manner of conducting them, which is much the same as in England, with perhaps a little more solemnity. As juiics are generally a mixture of French and Europeans, it is necessary for the evidence to be interpreted in which ever language it be given in. The courts were crowded with spectators, who behaved with more becoming gravity and decorum than I have often seen in courte in England. Canadians on Sunday flock to their churches, with Prayer books in their hand, a decent deportment, and generally clean and neat, if not respectably attired. As Irish Catholics that emigrate, mostly go to the States, would it not be good feeling to settle them liberally in Lower Canada, where their own religious rites are performed ? They would make loyal subjecto, and neutralize the political influence of the French Canadians, without exciting enmity, and probably introduce the English language and customs more generally. Attended an agricultural meeting two milew out of Que- bec, and was highly gratified by the excellent show of cab- bages (drumheads), savoys, &c., carrots, beets, turnips, potatoes, celeiy, onions, &c. and all good. A sample of wheat, pretty good, but shorter than it grows in Upper Canada. Some tolerable samples of barley, and a kind called mountain barley; it is naked, and has some ap> pearance of large rye, but more of common barley, with Its skin taken off; also good English oats. Fine applesi, pears, &c. Ploughing, with cast iron ploughs, two horses abreast, and held without exception by old country people, Irish or Scotch, eight or ten ploughs, and the ploughing good. The Canadians generally use clumsy wheel ploughs, drawn by a yoke of oxen, and a horse for a leader. Some pretty good cattle shewn. The society consists altogether of settlers, or nearly so, and practical farmers. I was sorry to see so few people at it. There has been anot*'er show and ploughing match since, by another agricultural society, cp?n to all competitoife. It was well attended, and the Canadians joined in competition for the premiums. I am informed, the obow of both caUle and vegetables would have been a credit to most coontrles. TION, OR i are much used for drawing ling what weights they will haul )er Town. 9f justice were open both here opportunity of witnesaing the which is much the same as in le more solemnity. As juiics French and Europeans, it is ) be interpreted in which ever lie courts were crowded with h more becoming gravity and Bn in courts in England, to their churches, with Prayer nt deportment, and generally ibly attired. As Irish Catholics the States, would it not be erally in Lower Canada, where erformed ? They would make ' the political influence of the ixciting enmity, and probably e and customs more generally, leeting two mile» out of Que- by the excellent show of cah- &c., carrots, beets, turnips, and all good. A sample of rter than it grows in Upper mples of barley, and a kind is naked, and has some ap- ore of common barley, with 1 English oats. Fine applesi, cast iron ploughs, two horses :eption by old country people, ploughs, and the ploughing lly use clumsy wheel ploughs, 1 a horse for a leader. Some ie society consists altogether "actical farmers. I was sorry w and ploughing match since, , cp?n to all competitoife. It Dadians joined in competition ned, the abow of both cattle n a credit to most coontries. EMIGRATION, OR NO EMIGRATION. 123 To return to the former society, I will copy an extract respecting it from the Star Newspaper : " This is the third exhibition of this small society, which was formed about three years ago by a few of the most eminent practical farmers in the vicinity of Quebec. The constitution of this society requiring that the committee of management should always be composed of practical fanners. The orinnal founders of the society have hitherto had the management of affairs ; and the manner in which it has been con- ducted, will be best appreciated by those who Witnessed the exhibition on Friday last. There was, to be sure, besides the great improvement in ploughing, such samples of farm-stock, vegetables, grain, &c. as are rarely to be met with in this part of the world. Several public-spirited individuals, who are not practical farmers, have from time to time en- rolled themselves as members, which strengthened the funds, and enabled the committee to extend the prizes this year beyond the two preceding oner As ^reat thing' often arise from small beginnings, may this society conunue to prosper, till it shall have raised a spirit of emulation amongst all classes of farmers, so as to have the effect of msing the agri- cultural character of Lower Canada to an equally in respect, with that of any other puit of the world : then will it have fulfilled the wishes and intentions of its founders, and be tm hnnour to their names after they have bade a(Ueu to this world, and a lasting benefit to their offspring in after generations. I have often wondered that the Quebec Agricultural Society, havinc the comma-id of the public money for the enconrage- ment of a^culture, shculd never have thought of givinx any public aid to this society. It appears to me, that a little money laid out in this way would turn to good account. " Signed, A Fabmeb." Great and general complaints are made by shippers and masters of vessels, respecting the port regulations at Quebec, and the want of attention to their interests gene- rally. The want of light-houses in di£ferent parts of the Gulf, and river St. Lawrence in particular, is a great dis- advantage, and an annual loss of property and lives. Oct. 18. — Left Quebec for Old England} just five years from the day I left London for America. 1 go by the way of Limerick, because it is a shorter water passage, some- thing less risk, and at but little more expense, taking my journey across that kingdom into consideration ; as a passage to Ireland is less than to England: I should have had to pay to London or Liverpool, in the cabiu, l'2l., but I pay only 9/. for the same to Ireland, which is rather lower this season than usual, on account of the bcarcity and lowness of freight. We fortunately cleared the Gi^f with a north-west wind, and of ccurse clear weather, in ^ve days, which is rather quick ; and arrived in the Shannon in twenty-six days. <» APPENDIX. l! ■^^'t!. N^ —OBSERVATIONS. Upper Cajtada, ar that part between theereat Lake i* m l-«»*i. ^Snon^nd full r«'r/'»""*o •""•'••" 45.S0T0M WESTERN LAKES. "*!«?■ •, "^r.. ''"^- *'•""''- Ab«vewh..phc.. 180„ule.40„.K>s600reet JJ8 feet Th„« rive« 2S0 inn i2S 566 Albany «0 W Unknown 8»meM Huron 480 109 900 ,048 TideW.ter. u to unite Lake Ontario with Lak^ Erie? t^aS th^SL'^H |eop««d ,n the spring of 1830. It* ouwT.XedlS aSti^ te p^H"?!? to "^"W interruption in caM oV^war i^& N«aie. Ontario Erie Huron Michigan Green Bay Superior i rDix. IVATIONS. Ben thejWCBt Lake, ia in hngOi icasterftom Lower Canada on I west, 600 railes, and its mean square miles, or 45,000,000 to ten districts, and in 1809 a liool m each district, in which taiwht, the teacher to have a tabhshedin 1810, others since- everr township, whose teachers y of fifty dollars from govem- those parents sending diildren ery beneficial A charter and ome government for the ei«c- eduradon of the youth of the mce of procuring as good an q>en8e, than in England, iapted for water .Mrriage tliar nals now ia contemplation be ao county of the «une extent w, in the worid. The &l)ow- inected wiUi the— :«gnifade, to rhe Welland Canal, which l! in case of a war, mkI entna ee^weeka advafitMB «f JBiif. the spring— the &ter plaee asses of floating ice getting at the bottom of the^jake^ APPENDIX. 125 The Rideau Canal,* beB:im two years ago by government, is cutting, to avoid the rapids of the river St. Lawrence, above Montreal, and is expected to be completed in two years. These two canals will give to the river St Lawrence the greater part of the trade of upwards of GOOO miles of coast, by the admission of schooners (and probably steamboats, ultimately), from the ocean through Lakes Ontario, Erie, St. Clair, and Huron, with a trifling expense by locking a short rapid, to Lake Superior and Michigan. A canal is also completed on the States' side from Lake Erie, through Ohio State to Ohio River, which, with, the Canals on the Canada side, will open a water communication betweur. Quebec and New Orleans, through the centre of America. The Welland Canal will unlock the energies of the west, — the granary of America ! The greater part of the improvements in the province have been mack since the war (Canada was hardly known in England before, and not now as it deserves). The influx of money at that period was a great, but short-lived, stimulus to its pros^eritir, as by it, and the derangement of trad« and industry occassioned by the war, idleness and profusion were for a time induced. It is from the want of money (in conjunc- tion with a Uberal emigration tnw home) being introduced in a proper, and of course a profitable manner, that this province is slower in its progress than any other new settled state. Ohio was settled about the same time as Canada, yet that State ccratsins near fiv« times tlie number of inhabitants, with towns of ten to twenty thousand each. Is it better situated for trade, or has it greater water communication ? Not any, and will not be equal to Canada when the canals are completed. * Is it superior in healthiness of climate 1 On the contrary, those who have been at fo^ places Ifflow Canada has the advantage, and its soil fiiliy equal, if not superior for general produce ; and that its markets are much superior I will shew, by an extract of the market prices in Ohio, compared with those of Canada: — /^Weat - - Indim Com - Potatoes Beef - pOTk - s Butter - ■ - Eggs - Wool - Tallow - Whiskey * Faim labottiers. who may emigrate to Upper Canada this summer, and the next, get immediate employment on the lUdeau Canal, as they are more u«ed to digging and shovellLDg, than the Americans. Waflti are micrally from 45i., toSbt. 6rf. per month, with board, and work more lioaerate than on Gngfint Clnals. ! " - N Cents. In Ohio. Cents in Ouada. 38ito37i - - W to 95 per bushel 12i only - - 60 ditto 16J - - - 25i^ to 30 ditto 2 to 3 - - 3 to 6 per lb. - 3} to 6 ditto 2i only - 4 to 5i - - 10 toll ditto 3 - - 6 to 9 per dozen S3ito62« - - 50 (generally) per lb. - 8 to 12 ditto 6i - - 12f to 18} ' - 25 to 50 ditto i it I Ki^'lUKiiiifiit*-'- 126 APPENDIX. I would recommend those that intend to marry, to bring out wives with them, if they can get good ones. Women are wanted • and, although there is no very great scarcity, there are more males than females, which is the reverse of lingland; therefore it would be a pity to increase the number of the latter, already un- avoidably doomed to remain single; and besides, generally speaking, a man will find a woman of his own country more coiigenial to his habits and taste, as a wife, than any other. This is not a bad country for single females to come to as house servants, they will get from 20«. to 30j. a month ; and, if steady, industrious, and deserving, may probably soon (if they choose) l.i'come the mistress of a house of their own. Strong, handy boys will get the same wages per month, and board. The inducements held out by Canada to men of capital, com- bined with skill, are great, and equal to any country. .*^oney can be invested in almost every kind of property to advantage, it done with judgment : — in purchasing land, particularly near towns and villages that must increase; in building houses, mills, &c. ; in establishing breweries on a moderate scale ; in distilleries, fur- naces and forges, and all manufactures. Emigrants, who seek present conveniences, cash markets, and a moderately good soil, with a country in some measure cleared, and generally healthy, would do best to settle either near Port Hope, York, Niagara, or round the head of Lake Ontario; but others, who prefer a more moderate chmate, a richer toil, cheaper land, with the prospect of as good a market when the Welland Canal is in operation," will probably go to the westward. People of most common useful trades will find encouragement both as masters and journeymen ; good blacksmiths and tailors are in request, house-carpenters, plasterers, bricklayers, and brick- makers, shoe-makers, boat-builders, wheelwrights, coopers, &c. will find openings almost everywhere, and with wages equal to any part of the States; t a few good innkeepers, to keep re- spectable houses, I thiiik would succeed; and maltsters and brewers also. It is unnecessary to add more in proof of the great importance of Upper Canada, and other American Possessions, to England ; and the superiority of the former over the United States, for British emg .ants. No. 2.— TAXES OF UPPER CANADA. , The taxes are very trifling in Upper Canada, and, I believe, chiefly expended in the county in which they are collected, for building bridges, court-houses and gaols, and defraying the ex- penses of the latter. A friend of mine, who owns 200 acres, informs me his taxes never exceeded 7«. (id. in any oiie tear. * The Welland Canal has been opened while this work was at press. t An Lishman, a bricklayer, who came out this last spring, has been engaged in building u house this summer, at &. 9d. a day, and board, and a pint of whiskey : most of the above trades in pipportion. TZ^^^^S^^^^^!^ NDIX. It intend to marry, to bring out good ones. Women are wanted ; -•at scarcity, tliere are more males erse of llngiand; therefore it umber of tlie latter, already un- Bingle; and besides, generally mmn of his own country more 9te, as a wife, than any other, igle females to come to as house to 30j. a month ; and, if steady, probably soon (if they choose) of their own. Strong, handy month, and board. Canada to men of capital, com- ual to any country, .'^oney can jf property to advantage, it done and, particularly near towns and building houses, mills, &c.; in erate scale; in distilleries, fur- ;tures. onveniences, cash markets, and untry in some measure cleared, best to settle either near Port the head of Lake Ontario ; but te climate, a richer toil, cheaper od a market 'vhen the Welland l)ly go to the westward, trades will find encouragement ; good blacksmiths and tailors lasterers, bricklayers, and brick- jrs, wheelwrights, coopers, &c. rhere, and with wages equal to good innkeepers, to keep re- succeed; and maltsters and a proof of the great importance rican Possessions, to England; it over the United States, for JPPER CANADA. , Upper Canada, and, I believe, in which they are collected, nd gaols, and defraying the ex- >f mine, who owns 200 acres, .ed 7s. (id. in any oiie tear. aned while this work was at press. :ame out this last spring, has been mer, at &. 9d. a day, and board, )ove trades in pipportion. t APPENDIX. 1-27 These trifling rates are mostly levied on improvements. .\ common log-house pays nothing ; n hewn log-house a trifle, and a frame, or brick house, more in proportion. Two assessors (ire chosen, by vote, in each township, at tlie yearly meeting luld for tlmt purpose and the choice of other town officers, and the making of town laws respecting the liberty of cattle, fences, roads, &c. The other officers are, two collectors, a constable, church- warden, town clerk for keeping accounts, &c. and several road masters, and pound keeper. A fpnner pays according to his number of cattle, &c. which may be termed a property tax. No. 3.— RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. The Church of England is established, churches are build- ing in various parts of the province, and clergymen appointed, who each receive a salary of 200^. per annum, from a society in England, at present, but land is set apart for the purpose in every township, on its first survey, of wliich but little has been brought into cultivation, and consequently unavailable. Meetirij, -houses of various sects are be appouted by him for that ayment of a fee of 2». 6d. ;ovemment respecting grants I s^ame office. aid by four quarterly, or five •lying may desire, but in the able uinually, from the time APPENDIX. of making the agreement. A discount will be allowed for ready money payment 6. On payment of the money, a grant will be made in fee simple to the purchaser at the expense of the Crown, with the usual reservations of " mines and minerals, and white pine timber." 7. The largest quantity of land which will be sold to any ir'i- vidual is 10,000 acres, and when put up to sale, it will be offered in such tracts, not less than 100 acres, as may be directed. Per- sons wishing more extensive purchases, must apply in writing, through the Lieutenant Governor in Council to his Majesty s principal Secretary of State for the colonies, with full explanation of their objects and means. 8. Lands may also be obtained without purchase, but upon (UfTerent conditions. 9. Persons desirous to acquire lands without purchasing, will make their application to government in writing, through the , Surveyor Generars office, in a prescribed form. Copies of which will be furnished by the Surveyor-General upon payment of 2*. 6d, 10. The largest grant that will be made without purchase, is 1200 acres, the smallest 100 acres. 11. No grant wiU be made to any person without purchase, unless the government is satisfied that the grantee has both the power and the intention of expending in the cultivation of the lands, capital equal to half the estimated value, or in case the grant does not exceed 200 acres, that he intends to reside upon and improve the same. 12. A quit rent of 5/. per cent per annum, upon the estimated value, will be fixed on the land granted without purchase. 13. The quit rent will be redeemable within the first twenty- five years next following the grant, on payment of a sum equal to twenty times the annual amount of it 14. Until the expiration of the first seven years next succeed- ing each grant without purchase, no quit rent will become due upon the lands comprised in it. 15. Every grantee without purchase, must, at the expiration of the before-mentioned term of seven years, prove to the satisfaction of the Lieutenant Governor in Council, tliat he has expended in the cultivation and improvement of hir land, a capital equal to half its value, as that value was estimated at the time of his grant, or in case the grant shall not exceed 200 acres, that he has during that time resided on and improved his tend. On failure of sucE EfKti, his claim to th. land shall be fijrfeited, and the same may e granted to another applicant It is to be understood, '.owever, that if at any time within that ptiHod the condition of expendi- ture and cultivation shall have been complied with, the patent may immediately issue. 16. No additional grant of land will be made to any person who has not proved, as last mentioned, the necessary expenditure of capital on the lands already uranted to^im. - il t i 130 APPENDIX. c 17. PerHons receiving; a grant of land without nurchnw will !• become l.uble to pay n .,uit r.-nt upon H.e lau.l comJS n Jc ' •econd pnt immediately upon the date of it. ^ IH. lersouH desirous to receive prai.fs of land without imr- cha^e on terms diflerent from those ahove stated. m,»t £ beC the Lieutenant Governor n Council a full explanation. inlriuL firomthefor"""?" *'t'l ""•>• '""y «^''"«=e've to exempt then irom tlie fair operations of these general rules. ' J». United English loyalists, and other persons entitled to gratuitous grants by the general regul- 'ions of lis S e ,y' Government, are not to be ailected by these rules. ^ ^ The above rules to take effect from the first of .lanuary, 1820. By order of his Excellency, the Lieutenant-Governor. JOHN SMALL, Clerk, Ex-Com. • No. 7.-PASSAGE BY NEW YORK TO CANADA. Passage from Liverpool, in steerage Provisions for nine weeks - . ^7oT '"/Ibany in steam-boat, two runks, and provil pZ '^e'teh" '""t^°«'' 'o «"»•"' > provisions", &c, or i„&, ^^- ""ir"y.P"' "^ "lefcanada shore, W«Li 1 •"'•f ^^i"*"""' 3 ^l"'- provisions 1 do! Waiters, and incidental expenses, four dollars - £4 3 9 6 9 2 6 18 18 11 4 No. 8.-PASSAGE BY QUEBEC TO UPPER CANADA. Passage from HuU to Quebec, in the steerage - £a q Eight weeks provisions (only six in comin?) - 3 4 From Quebec to Montreal in steam-boat, two doilare- to Prescott m Durham toats, two doUars: to Queen- twl'J! «V"™"^^ '■•'".' doUars; and provisions for three weeks, while commg up, four dollars . 2 14 9 18 -~mam DIX. CO Otr 3 runks, and provi- •' ' :, provisions, &c. iiie Canada shore, ., provisions 1 dol. ur dollars £4 3 J) 6 9 2 6 18 18 11 4 TO UPPER CANADA. steerage - £i q coming) - 34 boat, two dollars; loUars; toQueen- »nd provisions for rdoUars . 2 14 9 18 of land without purchase, will !• R pon the land comprised in such I! date of it. I grants of land without pur- e above stated, must loy before il o full explanation, in writing, may conceive to exempt them ■neral rules, lid other persons entitled to regul-'ions of his Majesty's by these rules. m the first of .lanuary, 1820. ncy, the Lieutenant-Governor. SMALL, Clerk, Ex-Com. YORK TO CANADA. AFPENDIX. 131 No. 9.— ESTIMATE OF EXPENSES AND QUANTITY OF PROVISIONS FOR A VOYAGE. The following is a list of the provisions, &c. which I shipped for my passage, and which I calculated at eight weeks' con- sumption. In some vessels, where the number of passengers is great, I believe the quantity is restricted. £ ». d. Biscuit 281bs. (I recommend the best). If half were bread, sliced and baked dry, or toasted, and packed close in a barrel, an agreeable variety - 7 Sufficient: I had some left. I had also two large sweet seed cakes, but they were not used, as sweet things connot be eaten in ser. sickness. A case of preserved beef, 9lb». - - 3 Had been a voyage, or it would have been dearer. Two quart bottles of preserved soup - - 3 lOlbs. ofbeefat 6f/. and lOlbs. ofporkat9rf. - 12 C Useful, because fresh ; but unnecessary if fowls are taken, which are better. Meat nearly half left, on account of continued sickness, but enough if well. A few red herrings should be added, lib. of tea, and ilb. of coffee - - - 8 For want of milk, both disagreeable and little used. I had preserved a glass bottle of milk, but unfortunately broke it. Cream or milk may be preserved by boiling, and adding two pounds of loaf sugar to a quart, and bottled. 71b8. sugar [plenty] - - - - 7lb8. flour [hardly enough — useful for fniit puddings] Slbs. rice [very palatable in pudding — I would recom- mend five or six pounds] . - - .51bs. butter 5.«., Slbs. cheese 2«. 3d. Mustard, pepper, salt, vinegar, ginger, nutmegs, &c. [necessary articles] - - - 1 Two gallons of porter, in bottles (or cider, if more agreeable) - - - - 4 Very palatable and strengthening when sea sick- ness is over, with a little water, nutmeg, and ginger ; but one bottle of port-wine, with half or one-third of the porter, I would recommend in preference. The wine is excellent in sea sick- ness ; and so also is beef-tea, when it can be had. Bottle of brandy 5s., ditto rum 2s. 6d., but both unneces- sary — not palatable in sickness ; I used but little. Half a bushel of apples, and a few oranges - 2 G Very useful. 1 had no preserved lemons, or any fruit, but much wanted them when sea sick. 2 Bushels of potatoes, onions, carrots, &c., with a net to boil the potatoes in - - - 5 3 9 3 6 1 6 2 7 a ; } 132 APPINDIX. No. lO.-VARIOUS OPINIONS ON CANADA. "Such wa. the fertility of Upper Canada, between Lakei Eri« and Ontario, and .o cheap were the lands Rold by the BriUA ffovemment, that the .ettlera there could afford to undenell the fanner of the United Sute., whsM Lind co.t him ten timea aa much. —Mr. Clay't Speech in Omgreu, m 1824. Another Member of Congresi (Mr. Vane, of Ohio State), laid — Upper tnnnda ii now, and will be more so, one of the weat- e«t wheat-growm^ countries in the world." The following is an extract from a book published in the States, during the late war between them end Great Britain. The author, Mr. Smith, schoolmaiter, left the province at the breaking out of the war, and therefore cannot be supposed to be over pai^ tial to any thmg British. He says, " The constitution, laws, and government of Upper Canada, are much better than people in the ' United States, unaquointed with them, expect." • vl^^r"^X '* ?" ''^''» entertained by the States, that the inhabitants of Canada are some of the worst people in the world, made up of romes, and murderers, and tlie like^ characters. However, the idea is entirely false) that there are some bad eharacters, escaped from different parts of the United States to Canada, no one will deny; but these cannot be called the inha- bitnnts only the sojourners. But I may say, whether I am believed or not, that the main body of the people of Canada are peaceable, just, and generous in aU their intercourse with one another, and straneers also. They are benr-olent; beinir once poor themselves, they know how to feel for human wtnt, and human woe. 1 have been acquainted with some of the inha- bitants of almost every neighbourhood." I copied th^ JoUowing from one of the United States newa- papers, at the fime the first Alien Bill was in agitation, which caused considerable sensation at the time. "The people of Upper Canada are blessed with a fine healthy climate, and fruitftil "-nl when the improvements in navigation »>etween the water* « Erie and the St. Lawrence are completed, they will posses c«oimercial advantages superior to any people (having respt. i. Seir population) under heaven. Their im- portationg, hwm (.te.eHy from the mother country, are subjected only to a s>^ tarm\ The support of the provincial government, or such p»r. of w that comes from the people's pockets, is not burthensome. Their taxes are not so many or so heavy as ours, and the expense of the fortification and defei.-se of the country comes *xchi8ively from the parent State; it must, therefore, be a »enou* attempt of aggression, which can induce a people thus favoured to disturb the public tranquillity." THE END. S.Ui>uuiug a: to. frintKri, LundouHoiise Vanl, ftt. I'aul's. *s!i» >i jj; tr >J»\t »t-.^. iNDIX. [NIONS ON CANADA. per Canada, between Lakei Erie ■e the lands Ruld by the Britiih ire could afTord to underaell the DM Lind cost him ten times •• hugreu, in 1824. fMt. Vane, of Ohio State), said rill be more so, one of the inreat- ^e worid." tn a book published in the States, hem snd Great Britain. The left the province at the breaking mot be supposed to be over par- ys, " The constitution, laws, and e much better than people in the ' ;hem, expect." rtained by the States, that the )f the worst people i^ the world, eren, and tlie like characters, ilse; that there are some bad t parts of the United States to hese cannot be colled the inha- Jut I may say, whether I am dy of the people of Canada are all their mtercourse with one ley are benf "olent ; being once to feel for human Wfcit, and ainted with some of the inha- hood." ae of the United States news- ien Bill was in agitation, which he time. are blessed with a fine healthy !ie improvements in navigation lie St. Lawrence are completed, intages superior to any people ion) under heaven. Their im- mother country, are subjected rt of the provincial government, tm the people's pockets, is not t so many or so heavy as ours, on and defei.-^ of the country State ; it must, therefore, be a lich can induce a people thus quiUity." lou-Huiise Vanl, bt. i'aul's. JUL.