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Mapa. piatae. charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction ratioa. Thoaa too large to be entirely Included in one axpoaure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand comer, left to right and top to bonom. aa many framae aa required. Ttie following diagrama iiiuatrate the method: Lea cartee, planchea. tableeux. etc.. pauvent itre flimie i dee taux de rMuetion diffArents. Loraque la document eat' trap grand pour 4tra raproduit it un saul ciieh*. il aat filmA A partir da Tangle sup4rieur gauche, de gauche k droite. et da haut an baa. an pranant la nombre d'Imagae n4ceaaaire. Lea diagrammea suivants illuatrant la m4thoda. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 €f)utcb in tbe (ITolonies. No. XXX. 'v^N^S^^^ ^.^y^^^. JOURNAL OF THE BISHOP OF NEWFOUNDLAND'S VOTAGE OF VISITATION ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR AND THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF NEWFOUNDLAND, IN THE CHURCH SHIP, "HAWK," IN THE YEAR 1853. Oi/TOi avev Qeov eTTTaro de^ioi iipvtt KIPK02. Odyss. O. 530. LONDON: THE SOCIETY FOR THE PROPAGATION OF Tilt tiOSPEL; AND SOI,U BY THf: SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS ; 4, ROYAL exchange; and 16, HANOVER STREET, HANOVER SQUARE; RIVINGTONS, BELL, HATCH ARCS, AND ALL BOOKSELLERS. 1854. 7. 54. w I 'i.l I I ! i i I My journal now submitted contains little more than my movements, and my personal services at each place. I had little time for reflections or sug- gestions, which might in some cases be expected, and made both interesting and instructive. I am enabled to add some embellishments, in the shape of a few drawings, by the Rev. Mr. Freer, who accompanied me. E. N. JOUENAL, d^c. The repairs and refittings necessary to make the good Church Ship safe and suitable for a summer's voyage oc- cupied upwards of a month, and were hardly completed on this (15th of June) the latest day I had named for my departure. ^Notwithstanding the extensive and expensive repairs of last year, (which cost between three and four hundred pounds,) it was found that the two principal sails and two spars must be replaced, and that several new ropes &c. were required ; with the usual amount of painting and cleansing both within and without. The time and expense of making these minor repairs and restoratic.:' were both considerably increased by the scarcity of mecaanics and sailors, &c. At the very moment of embarkation, I was obliged to increase the wages of my steward, and the sailors' wages were all large in proportion. This rise of wages is of course due to the increased demand for all artizans and labourers, and especially for sailors. Many have obtained double the pay of former years. Having determined if possible to sail on this day, after the departure of the English mail, (an event whicli regu- lates or affects many engagements in the Colonies,) I celebrated as usual the Lord's Supper in the CathedraT, as the surest and meetest method of strengthening my friends and brethren, and being myself strengthened for our separa- 4 ST. JOHN S CATHEDRAL. — EMBARCATION. [juke tion, and of comforting and being comforted in my long absence. I was assisted»in the distribution by the Archdeacon, tlie Precentor, and Curate. Several other Clergy with the Students of the College, and some kind and valued friends received with us ; and to all I trust and believe this Holy Communion was a source of encouragement and comfort. Many of my friends accompanied me to the wharf, and I embarked with the companions of my voyage between three and four o'clock p.m., but finding that matters on board were still in much confusion, we returned to the Evening Prayers in the Cathedral at five o'clock. Soon after six we re-embarked, and at seven o'clock were sailing out of the harbour, oar friends still attending on the shore, and saluting us with hands and handkerchiefs, which we knew were tokens of praying and well-wishing hearts. These were to be seen, and were seen till we reached the mouth of the Narrows, when just on losing sight of these we passed a large vessel at anchor, the name of which painted both on the sides and stern was •* Blessing." The word caught every eye, and I believe spoke to every heart. We seemed to depart with a "blessing" from the shore and on the sea, and if so surely we might fondly hope also from heaven above — "Blessed" we surely were in our going out ! I am looking forward to a third visit to the Labrador coast, and to all the settlements on the North and Eastern side of Newfoundland. In this visit I expect to celebrate the first consecration of a Church, and the first confirma- tions on the Labrador, and I trust to mark many otiier signs and proofs of the Cliurch's progress on that wild and desolate shore. In Newfoundland I shall have many similar services to perform, and expect to be afloat, God permitting and preserving me, nearly four months. My companions on this occasion are : (1.) the Rev. G. Hutchinson, who has left his picturesque and quiet parish at the foot of Malvern Hills in Worcestershire, with tke 18JS3.] PLANS. — GREENSPOND. view of ministering to the poor fishermen, English and Esquimaux, on the coast of Labrador, should his health appear to justify his continuance among them: (2.) the Rev. C. Walsb, whose labours in his extensive Mission (with four separate congregations) in Conception Bay, have seriously affected his health, and who requires change and rest : and (3.) Rev. J. B. Freer, ordained Deacon at St. John's on Trinity Sunday. Expecting to leave Mr. Hutchinson on the Labrador, I shall require all the services that the other two can render me, in visiting the Settlements, where there is no Clergy- man. We started with a fair breeze, which during the night increased to half a gale. I went on deck about three o'clock, and found the mate preparing to shorten sail, and assisted him in doing so, there being no other person on deck but the man at the wheel. There was still too much canvass on, and when the Captain came up with the watch he ordered reefs in both the foresail and topsail. It was a good seasoning for the Church Ship and the passengers at the first commencement, and thank God, neither seemed to suffer. Thursday^ June 1 6M. At sea. — The wind had moderated this morning, but was still high enough to make a sea which put all my companions hors de combat. At noon the wind which before had been fair came ahead, and the Captain advised that we should put into Greenspond then on our lee, as there was every prospect of the breeze freshening and continuing easterly all night, in which case we should make no progress, or less than none. I was more than willing to accept this advice for the pleasure I should both give and receive by paying a visit to my faithful brother and fellow-helper the Rev. Julian Moreton, and for the relief which a quiet night in harbour would afford my companions on board, who had not yet ventured upon deck. We stood on, however, a couple of hours, not choosing to make delay without sufficient cause ; and then, B£N£WAL OF INTEBCOURSE. [JVMB seeing no prospect of a change of wind, the Church Ship was put about, and before six o'clock was safely anchored in the little harbour, equally to the surprise and satisfaction of my companions, who had not been informed of our change of purpose, and were looking forward to another night of tossing and trouble. Mr. Moreton was on board almost before our anchor was down, with what feelings of joy may be supposed when it is remembered that for six months and upwards he had been cut off from all inter- course, and almost all communication with his distant brethren, and now saw unexpectedly his Bishop and three Clergymen bringing of course recent news of or from several dear friends in St. John's^ His lot, however, during the past winter, has been comparatively, in reference to hfe own condition in former years, or to that of many of his hrethreriy a very comfortable one. His own brother and brother's wife have been his companions, and inmates of his house, and he has received much, both of comfort and assistance, from the highly esteemed Deacon Schoolmaster/^ resident in the Settlement. As the people on shore were scattered, and very busy, Mr. Moreton said the " Evening Prayer " on board, and we then resorted to his Parsonage, much improved since my last visit. It was an evening full of comfort and pleasure, brightened by being so entirely new and unexpected; and we returned with thankfulness to the Churcli Ship with the sure prospect of a quiet night's rest. The joys of such a break in a voyage can hardly be understood by any ex- cept those, and they are but few, who have experienced them. Friday^ June Ylth. — We were not sorry this morning to find that no wind was stirring, as we had thereby an op- portunity of attending morning prayers in the Church at half-past nine o'clock. We vrere equally rejoiced to learn immediately after service, that the wind was fair, and before noon the Church Ship had again spread her wings, and was holding her course for Labrador. The wind con- tinued fair the whole day. 1853.] QUIRPOK. — LABaADOB IN SIGHT. Saturday^ June 18M. — Tlie wind altogether failed us to- day, and we made but "very small progress. We saw several small bergs or pans of ice ; one of which really quite flat, as we first beheld it, surprised us by assuming or ex- hibiting the appearance of a town or large lofty mass, when seen through the fog or haze. It was difficult to believe that the appearance could be so greatly altered, but we noticed the changes taking place, and could not be mistaken as to the identity of the piece. Towards evening the fog became thick, and the wind ahead, and I was somewhat anxious on account of these low pans of ice, which under such circumstances are not easily seen, or avoided at night. Sunday^ June 19M. — I was very thankful to learn at seven o'clock, that we had just passed Quirpon Head, the most northerly point of Newfoundland, and were favoured with a fair fresh wind, and going rapidly before it. This was the next best state of things to being actually at Forteau, (no doubt it was really the very best state of things for us,) and I was glad and thankful. ' We had seventy miles to run, but with the wind and tide, or rather the God of winds and tides, favouring and helping us, we ventured to hope that we might reach Forteau, and faithful Mr. Giiford, to our mutual joy, before six o'clock. In two hours after passing Quirpon, the bleak shores of Labrador came in sight, well sprinkled with their own crop of cold snow, and nothing else. A line of bleak barren dark rock only relieved by patches of snow will not be supposed to present an inviting appearance, and the bold abrupt manner in which they rise out of the sea, seems to forbid approach, but all these terrors notwith- standing, more than one of our company I believe, looked on them with interest, and was thankful for the sight. We found our warmest great-coats very useful, the temperature being sensibly affected by the snow and ice. The wind, though strong, was so fair that we were enabled without difficulty to celebrate divine service morning and evening, with a sermon or address at each. All the crew were thus enabled to attend one service, and all being 8 ENGLISH POINT. — A LABUADOR PAESONAGE. [JUNE Protestants, readily availed themselves of the opportunity. It was throughout as pleasant and liappy a Sunday as I remember to have spent at sea, and was most pleasant and happy at the conclusion when according to the good promise of the morning we found ourselves just before six o'clock at anchor off English Point in Porteau Bay, and were welcomed to the Missionary Station of Belle Isle Straits, by the first and only resident Clergyman on the Labrador, the Rev. Algernon Gifford. I was delighted to hear that not only Mr. Gifford, but his wife and sister, who had shared with him the trials and privations of a Labrador winter, were and had been all along in excellent health. Their solitude had been relieved, and their troubles lightened by the birth of a child, who had not suffered in any degree from the severity of the climate, but was lively and lovely as any " happy English child." We gladly accepted an invitation to drink tea in the Mission- house, and saving the wooden walls of the room, and the side of the Canadian stove flush with the wall, (the body of the stove being in the kitchen, and serving for culinary pur- poses as well as warmth,) we might have fancied ourselves in one of the neat parlours of an English parsonage, with all its hospitalities and comforts. And I doubt whether all or many English parsonages would have seen Helmore's "Psalter," and "Hymnal" brought out, and used as was done in the Labrador Mission House on this occasion by nearly the whole party. They did not separate without prayers, and a Bishop's blessing. Monday^ June 20M. At Porteau. — The morning was employed in examining the Mission premises, and fixing on the best site for the Church, the sills of which are prepared to be laid with all due reverence during our stay. The room which is now set apart for Divine Service, (with a stone font, and holy table, and other necessary furniture,) Mr. Gifford hopes to devote to the purposes of a school ; if ever his great wish can be gratified, in other words, if the means of establishing a school for the children of his immense charge 1853.] REV. A. GIFFORD S PLANS. « can be provided. His wish is to form an establishment, at which tiie children can be boarded as well as instructed : inasmuch as where the families are scattered at intervals of ten, twenty, and thirty miles, and on opposite sides of a strait covered with ice nearly half the year, it is manifestly impossible to collect them for instruction in any other way. His wishes indeed extend to schools at Anchor Point on the Newfoundland shore, and at Red Bay on the Labrador, thirty miles from Forteau, as well as at Forteau ; but we should be trulv thankful if a commencement could be made, as is every way most fitting and desirable, under his im- mediate direction and superintendence. Our chief hindrance in forwarding this, as every other work or project for the benefit of these scattered sheep, is the want of means ; but in this not less than the higher ecclesiastical department, means would avail but little without the man ; the man who will undertake the responsible and important duty of teaching and training the rising generation on the Labrador; with higher views and aims than his worldly advancement or profit. Under a teacher so qualified and competent it is almost certain a large number of children would be collected for entire education, (i.e. to be lodged and boarded as well as instructed at school,) from various parts of the straits ; and there is no other method available. I had the pleasure to-day of entertaining Mrs. and Miss Gifford with the Clergy at dinner on board the Church Ship. In the afternoon we visited in our be at the settle- ment, or station of L'anse Amour, or Aux Morts, and its excellent owner Mr. Davis, by whom Mr. Giiford had been most hospitably and generously entertained the whole of his first winter ; and similarly Mr. Gifford with his lady and sister for a considerable time after their arrival last summer, until the Mission House at English Point was made habit- able. We found Mr. Davis in the midst of the seal fishery, which is here managed by means of strong nets in the meshes of which the seals are strangled, or rather suffocated I .! 10 SEAL PISHING. — ME. DAVIS. [jVDfE £01* want of air. The strange unwieldy carcases formed (we might almost say) to carry the largest possible amount of fat, were strewed on the fishing stage — and persons were busily engaged in separating the pelt, i.e. the skin with the fat from the bodies. It is a hideous spectacle ; but the profits in a successful season are very large, and the pursuit is fol- lowed perhaps with more eagerness on account of the uncertain and precarious results. The seals killed at this season of the year are full grown, and are supposed to be returning from the southward, and to enter the bays in their journey in the pursuit of fish. Mr. Davis met us at the stage-head, and accompanied us to his house, and entertained our whole party with his usual kind hospitality. I was most gratified, however, by the planner in which he acknowledged the services of bis Clergyman, and spoke of the blessings which had been con- veyed to himself and others by Mr. GifiFord's ministrations. The value of such an acquisition may be imagined to a pious Christian and faithful son of the Church, who for thirty years had lived on this wild and dreary coast, and brought up a family, without once meeting with a Clergyman of his own Church, or partaking of any public means of grace. We chose to return along the shore to English Point, about four miles. Tuesday, June 'ilst — ^To-day we commenced in the Church Ship, the circuit of Mr. Gifford's extensive mission, — stretching nearly eighty miles in a direct line, which may be doubled in a sea voyage. The stations also are in opposite sides of the Belle-Isle Straits, which implies the necessity of much delay, and too frequently of much danger also. Mr. Gifford came on board at six o'clock. It was then raining heavily, but we started immediately for Blanc- Sablon, the nearest station to the westward, ten miles from Forteau. This is also the most remote or extreme settle- ment under the Newfoundland government, and con- sequently of the Diocese, to the west on this side of the 1853.] BLANC-SABLON. — ST. CLEKE. n straits. Here is a considerable establishment belonging to the Messrs. De Quettville, of Jersey, and in the summer several other tishing stations. Mr. Gifford went on shore immediately on our arrival to propose to hold the Morning Service in the Merchant's room, as is his custom at every visit. The Agent, as usual, kindly put a room at his disposal, but could hold out no hopes of a congregation in consequence of the short notice, and the full occupation of every person on the establish- ment, and in all the fishing stations. On return of the boat, I then paid a visit with Mr. Gifford and the rest of our paYty to St. Clere, where a re- spectable Jersey settler resides through the year, and where at my previous visit I celebrated Divine Service, and bap« tized several children. The master and all his men-servants were busily employed in hauling seals, but he accompanied us to his house. After inquiring into the welfare of the family with a few words of exhortation, specially with reference to the practice of catching seals on the Sunday, (which through Mr. Gifford's representations has been generally and almost universally discontinued on this coast) we rowed to Blanc-Sablon, all the time in heavy rain, There we held Morning Service, the Agent and servants of the house attending, with one man from the Bay of Islands. In all our congregation did not exceed nine or te^ persons, but under the circumstances we could not expect more. After the Prayers I addressed them in reference to their peculiar trials and temptations separated so long and entirely from the means of grace, and so inces- santly and anxiously occupied in their worldly callings. The old man from the Bay of Islands gave me melancholy accounts of the condition of the inhabitants of that locality both in temporal and spiritual things, and pleaded for a Clergyman to visit them, and their neighbours. When will it ever be ? . Mr. Gifford was anxious that I should visit the establish- ment of Messrs. Jones at Bradore, and some English 12 LONG POINT. — WILD SCENERY. [juke I families in the neighbourhood, to whom, though resident in the Diocese of Quebec, he willingly ministers, as he has opportunity with their Bishop's entire approval, as they are many hundred miles removed from any of their own Clergy. The distance from Blanc-Sablon is about eight miles. We started in our boat at three o'clock, the rain still falling heavily, and with every appearance of stormy weather ; I have seldom observed the barometer so low. We rowed to a settlement called Long Point, about four miles, through a very heavy swell, intending either to obtain a larger boat from thence to Bradore, or to proceed on foot. At this point some respectable English families reside ; and they strongly urged us not to proceed either by boat, on account of the swell, and dirty weather, or by land, on account of the vfery wet state of the ground. Either way they averred we could not return before night. This last statement determined us to relinquish our intended visit to Bradore, and to say the Evening Prayers at Long Point. I suppose it was the first occasion of a Bishop's presence, and though I felt much gratified in ministering to these scattered sheep of another fold, it would have been more satisfactory to all parties, if their own good Bishop could have spoken to them the word of exhortation. After the service I made an address from the second lesson of the Evening Service. Though most of the men of the settlement were absent in search of bait, we had of the few who remained with the women, and our boat's crew a tolerable congregation. It is impossible to imagine any spot more wild, barren, and desolate, than this part of the Labrador, and yet here families from the beautiful downs and coombs of Dorset- shire have settled themselves, and live happily; though hard labour, not without danger, is added to their many other privations. I presume the attractions of such a situation to consist in their entire liberty and independence, with the full supply of all things absolutely necessary for this present life. 1853.] ST. John's island. 13 We returned to the Church Ship just before sun down, fully satisfied that the advice not to proceed further, had been judicious and kind. This was our first day of Mis- sionary duty. Wednesday, June 22d. — I had 'given directions to sail; this morning, as the wind should serve, either to Anchor Point (thirteen miles), or to St. John's Island (forty miles), both on the Newfoundland shore ; with an intimation that I was anxious, if possible to reach the more distant settle- ment, which is the most remote station to the '.westward in the Mission. During his four years' residence, Mr. Giflford has been able to visit this settlement only once, and though he had made arrangements for a second visit if possible this year, yet I was aware that sailing with me in the Church Ship, he would be spared much trouble and incon- venience, and save some expense. The only other means of reaching it, was in a fisherman's boat, exposed to all kinds of delay and discomfort. I was glad to find on coming on deck, that the Captain had rightly interpreted my wishes, and was standing across the Straits for St. John's Island, but when in the middle of tl)e day a strong wind came nearly a-head, and I found that " Mr. Gilford did not know the proper run among the islands, and indeed he was too sea-sick to render any assistance, my faithless heart began to fail, and to anticipate the troubles and trials of a night in the Straits. However, making bold to pass inside some islands, we were favoured by the wind, and seeing a crew of fishermen, (who proved to be inhabitants of the place,) we took one of them on board to direct us, and by five o'clock p.m., were safe in a very snug little harbour of St. John's Island. Mr. Gifford went immediately on shore to make arrange- ments for Evening Service. Notice was given to the Captain and crew of a Nova-Scotian fishing vessel, who appeared thankful for the offer and with these our con- gregation amounted to upwards of fifty persons. Five children were baptized and admitted into the Church. It Ji 14 A HEBMIT. — HOLT COMMUNION. [JVNB appeared that a Eoman Catholic Clergyman had called here last summer, and had baptized two children of one family, but the rest had declined his^ services. After the Evening Prayers I made as usual an address, and offered to administer the Lord's Supper at an early hour to-morrow, if any were prepared and desirous to receive. One old man (an Englishman) expressed his wisli to avail himself of the opportunity, and although he had not seen a Clergyman for many years, he was so well informed on the subject, and was apparently so well prepared in other respects, that I could not hesitate to gratify his desire. This person had lived for several years as a hermit, quite alone, and five miles from any neighbours. He had lost, he informed us, four children, and his eldest son was drowiied ; and he had since felt no pleasure in society ; and had chosen to dwell alone, with his Bible and a few other books as his companions. The other inhabitants expressed the usual dread of unworthy receiving ; and in the sad, though unavoidable, ignorance of their manner of life and state of feeling, Mr. Gifford felt reluctant to urge or recommend them to partake. Our service did not conclude till ten o'clock. Thursday^ June 23fi?. — ^We went on shore at seven o'clock to perfor^i the Morning Service with the Holy Communion. The congregation was nearly the same as yesterday with the exception of the young children ; and the Nova Scotians who had left the harbour. It was, I presume, the first time the Holy Communion had been administered in the Island, and certainly the first time by a Bishop of the English Church. And very probably it will be the last, for the English settlers are liable to be removed or made to retire from this part of Newfoundland by the Erench, or to be prevented fishing, which is equivalent to an ejectment: and considerable apprehensions are ex- pressed, that this power will be exercised. The fishery also threatens to be a failure, and nothing but the bountiful supply of wood induces the people to remain. 1853.] BAT ST. BABBE. — CONFIRMATION. W Directly after the service we took our departure, and arrived at Anchor Point, (Bay St. Barbe,) before the time of Evening Service ; having been unable to accomplish an endeavour to call on an English family at Seal Cove in the way, in consequence of the wind blowing so strongly on the shore. We approached quite as near as we could with prudence. I was anxious to accomplish this call, because I had learnt that the kind-hearted Mrs. Genge, who had greeted me so warmly and entertained us so hospitably on the occasion of my first visit to Anchor Point, was now staying in this cove with a sick daughter. Mr. Giffbrd was equally anxious with myself to land, having been sent for, or requested to visit the sick person the first opportunity, but it was impossible. Going into Bay St. Barbe, we met a boat with some of Mr. Gifrord*s flock, who took us to the proper anchorage, and we in return invited them on board to an Evening Service. Mr. Gifford then went with these persons on shore, accompanied by Mr. Hutchinson to make arrange- ments and preparations for Divine Service to-morrow ; and I took my boat on the other side of the Bay to inform the inhabitants in that locality of our purpose. On each side Mr. Gifford had several candidates for Confirmation, and a few he hoped prepared and desirous to proceed to the Holy Communion. Who would have ventured five years ago to hold out the promise, or prospect to these people of such blessings and privileges ? Friday, St. John Baptist's Bay^ June Mth. — At Anchor Point in Bay St. Barbe. Mr. Gifford had been able to send several miles along the shore last night to inform some of his candidates for Confirmation, who were busily employed with their sealing nets, of the Bishop's presence. Those also whom I had visited last nighf came across the Bay, the weather being fine, and at ten o'clock we had the service for this day in a store at Anchor Point. After the Morning Prayer I gave Confirmation to six Candidates; among whom were a father and two sons, the youngest 16 TIMBER POR THE CHURCH. [JVKE • twenty-t\¥0 ; I also celebrated the Holy Coinmunion and preached, and had aa attentive audience. It is a proof of some earnestness, when men leave their sealiug-nets, which require continual watching and attendance. I had the satisfaction of finding the grave-yard, which I consecrated at my first visit, very neatly fenced and decently kept. In the afternoon I again held service on board the Church Ship, and eight or nine of our Morning Congregation, ex- , elusive of my companions, attended it. Our hospitable friends at Anchor Point brought on board besides other presents five salmon, just taken from the net, a tub full of the large eggs of the turs and tinkers, (sea-fowl which breed upon the neighbouring islands) with an unlimited supply of lobsters, &c. Saturday ^ June 2Bth. — Along the shore were several pieces of timber which the owners were ready and desirous to give for the projected Church at English Point, but the difficulty was to get them across the straits. I proposed to make the Church Ship serviceable for the purpose by towing or lashing them to the sides. Towing was thought too hazardous, and liberty to cause great delay should the wind be light and the tide strong, but two pieces, one on each side, were lifted out of the water and lashed, much to Mr. Gifford*s satisfaction and mine ; and we only regretted that time, or the want of time would not allow us to pro- cure some larger pieces on a different part of the shore. Another opportunity of transporting them across may never occur, soon enough, that is, to make them available for the projected Church. We had a slow but very pleasant passage across the Straits, reaching Forteau, and coming to our former anchorage off English Point, about two o'clock. We had Evening Prayers in the little Church, and I had an opportunity of calling at the three fishing establish- ments, and the two or three settlers on the opposite (called the Jersey) side of the Bay. I doubt whether any part of the world could have witnessed a more bright and beautiful Midsummerday*s evening, or a party more rejoicing in it, 1858.] ENGLISH POINT. 17 and for it, than ours at English Point, in Forteau Bay, on the Labrador. I had further cause of joy and thankfuhiess in tlie success which had attended my movements during the week, as I had not on any occasion been hindered by fogs or contrary winds, or any other casualty or difficulty, and had accomplished visits and duties which, under dif- ferent circumstances, might have occupied two or three weeks, or have proved impracticable. I have personally been somewhat hindered and tormented by a swelling on my face, which, though never so bad as to prevent my attendance at the different services on shore, has inter- fered with my Journal, giving me no leisure at night for composition. But this is a small matter, so long as my more impor^t duties are not interrupted. EVENING AT ENGLISH POINT, FORTEAU, LABRADOR. The weather has been very cold, hut (since Tuesday) fine and bright, with wind from the north-west. The Church Ship has behaved admirably : though her speed is 18 IIBST CONFIRMATION. [jrNX not great, she has proved very manageable. The people generally have appeared much rejoiced by and grateful for our visits, and I trust that some have been more than pleased. Sunday, June 26M. — The first Sunday on the Labrador happily was fine, though the wind had changed to the southward, and blew strongly from the south-west, which may have prevented the attendance of some few on the opposite side of the Bay. The Morning Service was celebrated in the little chapel before mentioned. At this service, after the Morning Prayer, Confirmation was celebrated — I presume for the first time on the coast of Labrador ; and I had the satisfac- tion of being assured that some of the candidates more advanced in years*were truly thankful that now at length an' opportunity had been afforded them of profiting by this Holy Ordinance. The Holy Communion was administered, and tliirteen persons, including the clergy, partook. All tiiese, however, had previously communicated, having, in the case of those not confirmed, availed themselves of the licence given by our Church to persons desirous of being confirmed. Most of those this day confirmed wished to wait for further instruction and preparation before coming to the Lord's Table. We had some difficulty in returning to our vessel, in consequence of the great swell which had arisen on the sea during the Morning Service. This cause with some other unexpected hindrances made us late in reaching L'Anse A'Loup, at which place I had engaged to hold Evening Service in a store, in the esta- blishment of Messrs. Stabb of Torquay. The distance from English Point to L'Anse A'Loup is nearly eight miles, half or nearly half by sea, and the remainder to be walked. We did not reach our destination till nearly six o'clock, and but just in time to prevent the party dispersing, several of whom had come from a con- siderable distance. Upwards of one hundred men are employed in fishing on this establishment during the 1853.] CHURCH AT ENGLISH POINT. 19 summer, but the large majority are Roman Catliolics from St. John's. All the Protestants of the establishment, I believe, and of the neighbouring settlements, were present, and after tiie Pravers I ^addressed them. The Service was performed in the upper loft of a store, prepared and furnished for the occasion with desk and seats, &c. I recognised the seats as having been used in the School- room at St. John's, when fitted up for Divine Service during the erection of the cathedral. They had arrived here on their way to Forteau, to which place I had sent them for the projected churcli. After service we were entertained at tea by Mr. Crockwell, the manager of the establishment during the summer or fishing months, who, arriving here from England via St. John's, at the be- ginning of June, returns to England in the month of September. We left a little before eight o'clock, and accomplished our walk to L'Anse Amour in little more than an hour. There we found a second entertainment provided by Mr. Gifford's former host and most kind friend, Mr. Davies. The wind had sufficiently abated to allow of our performing the remainder of our journey by boat, and we reached the Church Ship, after a day of some fatigue but much more gratification, soon after ten o'clock. Evening Prayer had been said at English Point by Mr. Walsh, whom I had left behind for that purpose, and as being unable to bear the fatigue of the journey to L'Anse A'Loup. Monday y June 11 th. — At English Point — Forteau Bay. After Prayers in the little chapel at nine o'clock, I con- secrated a grave-yard, fenced for the present with old seal nets, until the inhabitants can find leisure, which is quite out of the question during the fishing season, to erect the wooden fence, for which they provided the materials last winter; and immediately after that service, I placed the first or foundation-block of the church, with (prayers, and psalms, and other customary formalities, in such simple way as the circumstances and situation seemed to require. It is surely begun in faith; for both our means of completing the building, small and simple as it will be, have in great 90 BOMANISTS AT LABRADOR. [JVHB measure to be provided, and the flock and congregation to be gathered and brought in. I had been much grieved, though hardly surprised, to observe that, with the exception of the captains or masters of the fishing-rooms, scarcely any of the three crews, amounting together to upwards of two hundred men, came across tlie Bay to our Service yesterday. Many could not be expected, as half tlie whole number, I believe, are French Canadians and Komanists, and of tiie Jersey men many understand English but imperfectly. Still it may be feared the habits of the majority, and custom of the place, liave rendered them indifferent to, if not averse from, holy Services on the Lord's day. Of the residents in the neigh- bourhood, the majority attend with thankfulness, and stribigers frequently avail themselves of the opportunities of instruction and refreshment which the Church affords. During last Lent, a party of nine or ten mountaineer Indians came down to the coast to exchange furs and skins for provisions, and gladly attended the Daily Service during tlieir stay in tlie neighbourhood. Some Esquimaux Indians (male and female) came in like manner, and the wife of the leader, or head of the party, was baptized. But the residents and natives of English extraction have generally, in default of other choice, married women brought from St. John's as servants to the fishing crew, who are uneducated Romanists, and, in proportion to their ignorance, are zealous and persevering in trying to bring over their husbands to, or at least to have their children baptized in, the Romish Church. Last summer two children of a Protestant resident in this Bay, who it was notorious had both been baptized by Mr. Gifford, were presented by the mother to the Roman Catholic Priest, and by him re- baptized. Such cases cause division andhinder the progress and prosperity of the Mission, and are a source of great discomfort to the Clergyman. Very different is the state of things where men have been joined together in holy matrimony with females of their own Church, or have reason and religion enough to know and feel that it is their 1859.] TTEALTnT CLIMATE. 21 I bounden duty to rule and direct their families, as in other/ things, so chiefly m natters of faith. ^^ A very good example in a contrary direction was lately given by a respectable Engiisliinan, who went home fortiie purpose of finding an help-meet for him, and was fortunate enough to persuade an excellent young woman to exchauffe London for the Labrador, and return with him as his wife in the same vessel which brought out Mr. and Mrs. Gilford. She was very delicate in England, and suffered greatly duruig the voyage; but she is now in robust health, \nd the motlier of a healthy child, which she brought iwelve miles over the snow within a month after the birth, to be baptized by Mr. Gifford at Forteau. I saw both mother and babe, pictures of health and cheerfulness. This may appear a trifling circumstance to dwell on, but it is one chief source of comfort to a Missionary on the Labrador ; and it is a proof that even persons, delicately brought up and sickly in England, may not only live, but thrive on the coast of Labrador, while no country or climate can agree better Mith children. After the ceremony of laying the first block of the new church, I had finished all my work at English Point and Forteau, and made preparations to sail to the northern and eastern portions of the Mission. As, however, Mr. Gifford could not expect to return in less than a fortnight, he had many orders to give and arrangements to make; and he was very anxious, as we had succeeded so well in transporting the baulk across the Straits, that I should carry a deck-load of lumber to Red Bay, the last of his stations to the north- .ward on the Labrador side of the Straits, about thirty miles from Forteau. These circumstances induced me to countermand the order to sail, though we had made all preparations on board, and the wind was fair. The difficulty of removing the wood to Red Bay, though only thirty miles, was as great as that of transporting the timber across the Straits ; and it was much needed for the Chapel School-room, which we hoped to find commenced. PRUITS AND MUSQUITOES. [JUNE St. and for which this lumber had been purchased in John's. It was accordingly piled on the deck of the Church Ship during the evening of this day ; and Mr. Gifford made use of the respite in giving directions about the work to be done at the church, and various other matters, missionary and domestic. In the evening, after again uniting in prayer and praise in the little chapel, we mounted the lofty hills at the back of English Point, from which we commanded a view of four noble ponds or lakes, stretching twelve miles into the interior, with a beautiful cascade. We passed by numerous fine currant-bushes, and other fruit-bearing plants, which though close almost to the house, and easily accessible at this season, cannot be approached or profited by ^hen the fruit is ripe, for a reason which will hardly be credited or understood by strangers — viz. the swarms of musquitoes and other flies. Among the trees and bushes where the wind is not much felt, they hold undisputed pos- session. On returning to the shore, we found it strowed with caplin, and the codfish often throwing themselves on shore in their eager pursuit of the smaller fry. The fishermen were surrounding both with the seine. Several boat-loads are secured at one haul. Such is nature's abundant market. We wished MiS. and Miss Gifford a second farewell after their family prayer, which our whole party had joined in every evening when on shore, and had proved by happy experience, that Christ's legacy of peace was not withheld from English Point, on the coast of the Labrador. Tuesday, June 28M. — We sailed this morning at six o'clock in a fog, and, therefore, I may say in faith; for the prospect is never promising under such circumstances — and as little in Belle Isle Straits, I presume, as in any part of the world. Eor two hours, though close to the land, we could scarcely see it ; but about eight o'clock the fog suddenly cleared off, and we found ourselves running along the shore with a fair pleasant breeze, and soon after nine o'clock had 1853.] CAPSTAN ISLAND— HOSPITALITY. 23> run up our distance, about twelve miles to West St. Modeste. There we came to anchor for the purpose of visiting a few families between that island and L'Anse A'Loup. We Imd the Morning Prayers at or near Capstan Ishind, where reside three Protestant families ; and the Evening Prayers at a place, about two miles and a half further to the west, of an ill name—little I think deserved, if the face of the country or of the inhabitants be any cause or criterion. It has been named by the Prench, L'Anse au Diable, which is corrupted or rather changed to " Nancy- Jobble " by the natives. We were most kindly received by two families, who dwell there in a double house under one reof, for mutual society, help, and comfort. One of these consist of the young man and woman (with their child) who were before mentioned as having accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Gifford from England. Alter each of the Services, I addressed the little congregation. Some of those who had been present on the morning, followed us to have the benefit of the second Service. We walked back to Capstan Island, where we found our boat waiting to convey us to the Church Ship, which we reached about six o'clock. After a hasty meal, we again started in the boat, to convey Messrs. Gifford and Hutchinson part of the way to Little or Eastern Modeste, about five or six miles, where I wished them to spend the night, to make prepara- tions for an early Service and the consecration of a grave- yard, on the morrow. If the parties had not been adver- tised of an arrival this evening, every male person of the settlement would have been engaged in fishing by daylight. We landed them two miles and a half from the island, to which they proceeded with knapsack, &c., on foot, intending to ask a " shakedown " on the planter's floor, though with some reluctance, on account of the number of the family, children, and servants, lodged under one roof. They were very kindly welcomed, and after two suppers, the first for them, and the other for the family and servants, a bed was placed for them on the kitchen floor, with the luxury— .fif 24 EASTERN MODESTE — GRAVEYARD. [^UNE by no means a common one in a planter's house on the Labrador — of a pair of sheets. In consequence of the suppers and other preparations, tliey could not *' turn in " till twelve o'clock. Wednesday^ SL Pete/s Bay. — The wind had changed last night, and blew so fiercely into our little harbour this morning, and with such a heavy swell, that it M'as not without much difficulty and some danger that we made our departure, and stood over in the teeth of wind and sea to Eastern Modeste, which occupied us fully two hours. Messrs. GiETord and Hutchinson, with the chief planter and his sons, met us in a boat to guide us between some reefs to a safe anchorage. We found that one chief object of our visit, to consecrate the grave-yard, was defeated by a common Labrador difficulty, the want of nails. The schooner expected to bring them had been looked for all the spring, and was not yet arrived. All the other materials for the fence were provided and prepared, and being in daily expectation of these nails, no temporary pro- tection had been thought of. The Consecration, therefore, was necessarily deferred. The Service for the day was per- formed in the Church Ship, at the request of the people, the house on shore not being considered sufficiently com- modious or suitable. The Evening Prayers were said in like manner, and a child brought and presented to be admitted into the Church after the Second Lesson. Nearly all the Protestant inhabitants attended each Service. We were compelled by the strong head-wind to remain all night. Messrs. Giflford and Hutchinson returned to their berths on board the Church Ship with much satisfaction. Thursday^ June 30M. — We sailed early for Red Bay, the most remote to the eastward of Mr. Gilford's stations or settlements on the Labrador, and about thirty miles from Forteau, and seventy-five from St. John's Island. We reached the harbour early enough to give notice of our Morning Service. Nearly all the men were on their fishing grounds. A few, however, had returned, and for or with 1853.] HED BAY— DISSENT. 25 j» these, and some females, we liad Divine Service on board. In the afternoon we had rather a larger congregation, and I addressed tliem chiefly on the subject of Confirmation, having learnt from Mr. Gifford that there would be several candidates in or at this place. An unhappy cause of dis- union exists here in the annual visit of som» Methodists from Carboneur, who, of course, practise and would pro- pagate their own mode of worship and rules of faith. I find the inhabitants have already differed among themselves on two points, in reference to the Chapel and Schoolroom : (1) as to the site, a point happily of no great importance, as either of the two spots contended for would be suf- ficiently convenient ; and (2) as to its use, whether it shall be open to Methodist and other preachers and teachers, or, as the phrase is, " to any good man that comes along.'^ The first question, had been already set at rest by the majority, who had laid the sills and sleepers of the building in the place of their own choice ; and with regard to the second question, the wish of the majority, which is opposed to the indiscriminate use, will I presume prevail ; but in each case some ill feeling, and refusal to co-operate, will too probably result from the difference. The same leaven, which had caused the difference of opinion as to the use of the chapel, operated as might be expected on the subject of Confirma- tion ; and some young persons taking, as they truly said, the line of Dissent, chose to determine for themselves that it would be too great a charge. , Friday^ July \st. — The morning was fine, though very cold. The Morning Service was celebrated on board, and eight persons were confirmed, all, with a single excep- tion, well advanced in years. When this Service was concluded, the whole congregation went in boats to the shore, for the consecration of the grave-yard, which was performed with the usual prayers and ceremonies. The lumoer for building the church, brought in the Church Ship, was safely deposited on the ground ; and I congratu- lated the people, as I did myself, on the very different 26 MISSIONARY RESULTS. [JULT aspect of their spiritual state and circumstances from that of my former visit. I had then left a single Minister in Deacon's orders, a stranger and strange among them. By the blessing of God upon him and iiis labours, he had not only purchased for himself a higher degree in the ministry, butthad united so far at least their hands that they had decently fenced their grave-yard, and petitioned for its consecration ; had laid the foundations of a Chapel, with a good prospect of carrying it on to completion ; their children had been duly baptized, and the heads of the families been confirmed by the Bishop. I earnestly be- sought them to remember, with devout gratitude, not only the great Source from which all these blessings had origi- nated, and descended to them and theirs, but the Church and the Ministers also, by or through which they had been conveyed and received ; and forgetting dissension and differ- ence, to unite heart and hand in carrying forward the good work for their oVn edification, the comfort of their Minister, the honour of the Church, and that end of all ends, the glory of God. Being very anxious to reach Battle Harbour before next Sunday, I had directed preparations for our departure to be made while we were consecrating the grave-yard ; and on my return on board I found the sails unfurled, and the anchor heaved short, but the wind was ahead, and the appearances altogether so unpromising, that I could not hesitate to accept the Captain's advice to remain another night. I was glad of the opportunity of gratifying Mr. Gifford's host, (a fisherman, and formerly a working black- smith in Jersey,) by drinking tea at his house with all my party. This is the person who kindly divided his little sleeping room with a partition for Mr. Gifford's accommo- dation on his first arrival ; and at his every subsequent visit has lodged and entertained him, and has shown great zeal in forwarding the collections for the Church and Church Society. He provided us with an excellent repast of Labrador delicacies, fried salmon and cod's tongues, and 1853.] UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPT TO SAlL. n nothing was wanting but milk, which is unknown in this part of the Labrador, and to which we were become in- different. Every thing was clean and sweet, and the best of its kind, and was doubly recommended by our liost's general hospitality. On r^/ with some books and tracts. Mr. Hutchinson was anxious to entertain his Bishop and companions in the Church Ship, and we were equally anxious to be entertained at the new Parsonage ; but, upon overhauling the crockery, it appeared there were only two teacups, and both those cracked. This deficiency, however, was easily supplied from the Church Ship ; and the first entertainment at the Battle Harbour Parsonage came oif after Evening Service. It was late before we sat down to tea, which gave us an opportunity of discovering that there were no candles in the house; and, when some dips had been procured from the store, there were no snuffers. It was partly with the view of discovering these deficiencies that 1853.] MR. Hutchinson's mission. 47 I desired the entertainment on shore ; they did not, how- ever, prevent our enjoyment of the cocoa and preserves kindly sent from Jersey for Mr. Disney by some friends, who show the same considerate attention to Mr. Gifford's comforts. We had indeed a most agreeable, happy evening ; and did not depart without praising the Lord for His good- ness, and sanctifying His gift with the Word of God and with prayer. To make the induction and occupation more complete, Mr. Hutchinson remained on shore foi 'benight, and took possession of Mr. Disney's ottoman bed. The rest of the party returned to the Church Ship. Thursday, July 'i\&t. — Mr. Hutchinson returned on board soon altdr six o'clock, when we started for Cape Charles and Camp Islands. For some hours the wind was very light, and when at length it blew strongly was a-head. Arrived among the Camp Islands, we were piloted by a fisherman, one of the residents,' to the anchorage at a place called Chimney Tickle. In the afternoon I went with Mr. Hutchinson across the Bay, two miles, to Shoal Cove, and then walked overland the same distance, or rather more, to Cape Charles Harbour. At each place we met with resident families, members of the Church, and were kindly welcomed. At Shoal Cove Mr. Hutchinson's services were immediately required to baptize an infant. I > egretted that I had not taken the Church Ship to Charles Harbour, where the number of families in the immediate vicinity would have enabled me to have Public Service with advantage. I called with Mr. Hutchinson at several of the cottages, and introduced him as Mr. Disney's successor. Mr. Walsh, whom I left on board, called in our absence on several of the families on the Camp Islands ; they are chiefly from Conception Bay, Two families only reside here in the winter, two also at Shoal Cove, and several at Cape Charles. • Friday^ July 22c?. — There was no wind this morning, but the Captain, expecting a breeze, and that it would be a-head, made his men tow the Church Ship out of the ''11 .(ill m m 48 TEMPLE BAY. — CHANGE OP TEMPERATURE. [JCLT Chimney Tickle, as I was anxious, if possible, to reach Henley Harbour to-day. It soon came on to blow heavily, and, as we expected, right a-head, so that we had to beat with reefs in the mainsail and fore-topsail. It became also very foggy, and we narrowly escaped running foul of a low portion of an iceberg. The Church Ship all but touched it, and we were obliged to tack suddenly to avoid the other and larger portion. We came, however, through the fog into Chateau Bay, and ran through Temple Pass into Temple Bay, within three miles of Henley Harbour. The change of temperature, on passing from the fog and ice-chilled air on the sea to the land-locked bay, was re- markable. The mercury rose from 58° to 75° in a quarter 0^ an hour. "We came to anchor about three o'clock, after the severest trial of the Hawk's wings in this voyage. The number of fishing-stages and houses is increased since 1849. We counted sixteen or seventeen stages. Most of the occupiers are from Carbonear. Four or five Protestant families and a few Roman-catholics remain all the winter. A man soon came on board to ask advice for liis wife, making grateful mention of the benefit she had received from some remedies prescribed at my last visit. We went on shore in the evening, and called on most of the Pro- testant families, that Mr. Hutchinson might make himself known. Mr. Disney had been only able to visit this place once during the last season. Many of the people expressed a wish to have a School built, and thought their claim stronger than that of their neighbours at Henley Harbour, on the ground (1) of being more numerous, and (2) of having the burying-ground common to all the neighbourhood in this Harbour. Some also proposed to fence their graveyard, as the Roman- catholics, by the direction of their Priest, had taken a separate portion. We found a good deal of sickness, caused, no doubt, by their labour among the fish, and the constant repetition of the same food, without any herb, meat, or vegetables. IMS.] f HENLEY HARBOUa AND ISLAND. 4» We informed them of our intention of removing to- morrow, if God will, to Henley Harbour, and holding our services there on Sunday. Saturday y July 23rf. — The morning, like that of the two preceding days, was quite still, without any wind till about nine o'clock, when it began to blow from the south- ward. We took advantage of the first of the breeze (after Mr. Hutchinson had visited the sick in Temple Bay) to cross to Henley Harbour. On coming to anchor, a midshipman from the steamer Aryus left at Henley with a boat and crew of four men, came on board. Mr. Hutchin- son went on shore, and called at several houses to give in- formation of our intention to remain here over Sunday. A BASALTIC ROCKS. Roman Catholic priest has been detained several days in the Harbour, waiting for a wind to carry him to the southward. In the evening we walked round the wonderful basaltic Castle on Henley Island, the most remarkable rock on the E i 1; . IF:! I'v 50 A RESIDENT AT HENLEY. [JULT shore. The hills are very lofty and large iu all this neigh- bourhood, but those on the north side of this harbour are of a material and character quite different from the rest, and from all we have seen on the Labrador. Sunday y July %^th. — Morning service commenced at eleven o'clock. Only one family, I believe, came from Chateau Bay. We had, however, a good congregation of the visitors and residents in this harbour. The midshipman of the Argus steamer attended the service, and dined with us, and took tea. I embraced the opportunity to give him some books, of whicb, as of other things, his supply on shore is very scanty. I discovered that he is the son of a clergyman in Somersetshire. He aippears amiable and well principled ; and he had need to be specially so, left at such an age so entirely to himself, with nothing whatever to do, and no society — placed also in a cabin, with his four men, in which it is almost impossible to have privacy, or to do anything for self-improvement. Tiie case is the same of course with the men, except that they are together, and are not lowered by being associated with the fishermen and their families. Our afternoon service at four o'clock was well attended. One infant was brought to be received into the Church. I preached in the morning, and Mr. Hutchinson in the afternoon. After much anxious deliberation, I determined not to depart on the morrow, both (1) because it is (St. James's day) a festival on which I should wish to have public service, and (2) because I have some further arrangements to make with and for Mr. Hutchinson, before I turn him adrift "alone, unfriended," iu this most un- promising part of his wide mission. Monday, St. James's day. — It turned out that there was no necessity for me to have determined to remain here this morning, for a head wind with fog, which ushered in iSt.> James's day, would have put it out of our power to leave. I could not but be thankful that all doubts and questions as to the propriety of delay were thereby removed. 1«53.] ST. JAMES S DAT AT HENLEY. 51 The service for the day was said on board at ten o'clock. I preached ; and, expecting that we should separate this evening, or to-morrow morning, we were thankful of tlie opportunity of partaking together of the Holy Communion. It is singular that Mr. Hutchinson's church in England is dedicated to the saint of this day, and that the festival was always observed in his parish by feasting the children of his schools, &c. How changed the scene, from the verdant richly culti- vated base of Malvern Hills, with the sheep and oxen, and H£NLBY HAHBOVR. children sitting and rolling on the turf and green grass, to the sea agitated by fierce winds and covered with fog; and a barren island with stages and flakes, and women and childi'en busily employed, some in washing fish, others in spreading it on the stones of the beach; not a tree or hedge now to be seen, and not an animal but a few howling dogs. The only objects to vary the scene were some vast icebergs bearing their snowy peaks and pinnacles above the fog. i 5Jf lOG AND HEAD-WIND. [jvtr Yet in these two scenes, so distant, so different, the same holy services were celebrated, the same God and Saviour honoured and worshipped, the same Sacraments, and means of grace given and received, and in and by them all distance and difference for the moment done away or forgotten. Why did my friend and brother rejoice to enter upon his new scene of ministry on this day, but because he was assured that on this day he should be remembered in the good wishes of his former flock ; and that they would help together in their prayers to God for him ? The head-wind and fog continued all day, and we had a second service at six o'clock in the afternoon. At each of the services a few people from the shore attended. Mr. Hutchinson visited some of his flock ; the rest of us remained on board all day, and found abundant employment in letter writing. A vessel arrived to-day from Newfound- land, but brought us no communications from, or intelligence of, our friends. Tmsdaify July 26M. — The fog and strong head-wind con- tinued, and there was consequently no possibility of crossing the Straits. I visited, with Mr. Hutchinson, nearly all the Protestant families on the island; all of them from Carbonear, in Newfoundland, and all, I believe, Methodists. In the evening an attempt was made to reach Temple Bay in a large boat, with our captain and one of onr crew, the midshipman and two sailors ; but it was found impossible to pass through the gut or strait between the two Bays, on account of the violence of the flaws from the hills, which at last nearly drove the boat on shore. After remaining some time at anchor among the rocks, the boat returned, and had considerable difficulty in dis- covering the entrance to the harbour, through the thick fog. Wednesday, July 27tk. — The morning broke, or rather could not break, through fog and wind as yesterday, and there appeared no prospect of our being released. We 1853.] DIET — HETURN TO NE-WPOUNDLAND. 58 and waited till noon, and then went on shore, and sent some flour to be baked by one of the fishermen's wives, which is our usual mode of obtaining occasional supplies of soft- bread. We have been more than a week at one time with only biscuit ; and it is now a month since we have tasted fresh meat, and only once in that interval a little (goats') milk. Vegetables have been equally scarce, i.e. we have tasted none at all, of this year's growth, sinee we left Forteau. Fish and bread serve for every kind of food to every kind of creature on the Labrador, at least, in the fishing season. v-uu em^ .u ^a. We had no sooner obtained tlie promise of a "baking," if that is the right name when the bread is made in a pot over the fire, and Mr. Hutchinson had proceeded to make ■'isits at the cottages, than a clear sky with a flaw of wind from the north made us hasten back to our vessel, in hope of a favourable opportunity of escaping from the durance of Henley Harbour. Mr. Hutchinson had happily obtained the promise of a passage to. the northward in the vessel which arrived from Newfoundland. She, we saw, was making preparations for a start. I therefore accompanied him on board and saw him well provided. Mid, I trust and believe, well prepared for his lonely voyage, — and finding the wind setting from the northward, the Church Ship again spread her wings, the anchor was weighed, and we slipped out through the narrow Channel between the two castellated hills of basalt, — and before seven o'clock were entering the Harbour of Quirpon on the Newfoundland shore, conducted through the Channel, as in a former occasion, by a French fishing-boat. So happily ended, as it had happily begun, my third visit to the coast of Labrador. It is six weeks since we sailed from St. John's, and with the exception of the four days' voyt^ from St. John's to Forteau, I have been cruising on the Labrador and in the Straits, and been every day at anchor in some harbour or cove, and have met with no accident of any kind, and, except these two days in Henley Harbour, no delay. I 64 QUIRPON— ^CHILDREN BAPTIZED. [jutr look back with wonder and gratitude, and do desire with all my heart to obey the pious Psalmist's invitation, to praise the Lord for his goodness, and declare the wonders that he doeth for the children of men. Immediately on our arrival, Messrs. Walsh and Freer went round the harbour in a boat to prepare the people for service to-morrow. There are no less than fourteen or fifteen large French vessels now in this harbour waiting for their cargoes of fish. Thursday y July 28^A. — The few people living and remain- ing in this harbour, (for the men generally are fishing on the Labrador,) assembled in the Church Ship before ten o'clock, with most anxious desires and requests that the ybung ones bom since my last visit (four years ago) might be baptized, and received into the Church. These were nine in number, and in consequence of the very small proportion of men remaining in the Harbour, it wafi impossible to provide godfathers for all, without calling in jhe assistance of my companions, Messrs. Walsh and Freer. I therefore baptized or admitted them into the Church myself, and Messrs. Walsh and Freer took the place of god- parents, each for five or six children. There was no other method of complying with the requirements of the Church, and meeting the wishes of the parents. It was a novel and interesting scen% so many little ones presented in such a place to be ** signed with the sign of the Cross," and re- ceived by the Bishop himself, his Clergy acting as god- parents, and all the parties concerned seemed to be properly impressed. The whole Morning Service was said, and I preached as in other like occasions. In order to save the delay of taking the Church Ship into the next Harbour of Griquet, distant about four miles, I determined to walk to a place called Fortune, about half the distance, and proceed from thence, if possible, in a boat. We started immediately after dinner, about two o'clock, and as " Fortune " had it, we found a boat, with a ^ 1893.] WILD-FLOWERS — ADDITIONAL SEK VICES. 55 ^ skipper, which took us over to the Islands, where two Church families reside, wLose children, there bom, I had baptized or admitted into the Church at my last visit. Only one had been since added to the number, which the parents much wished to be admitted into the Church. As \ie godfathers were in Quirpon, the mother immediately expressed her readiness to follow us there, and after Even>- ing Prayers in the house we returned as we came, the woman accompanying us in the boat to Fortune, and from thence over the hills to Quirpon. It was then, however, too late to get the congregation together, and 1 consented, therefore, to remain for an early service to-morrow, and Udore readily as one person had expressed a wish to receive the Holy Communion. We were much struck in our walk over the hills with the great luxuriance of the grasses and herbs, and the variety of wild flowers, so different from the bare rocks of the Labrador. On our return we gathered a bouquet of wild flowers that for size at least would have rivalled those of Covent Garden ; nor was it much inferior in colours and fragrance. Friday, July 29ih. — We dropped down to the southern end of Quirpon Bay, or Harbour, before breakfast, and came to anchor there for the twofold purpose of better ensuring a departure, and of accommodating the parties whom we expected at the Service this morning, all of whom resided or were staying in that neighbourhood. They came on board at the hour appointed, and Ave children were presented for admission into the Church. There was the same necessity as yesterday for requesting Mr. Walsh and Mr. Freer to represent the godfathers, absent on the fishing grounds. The Holy Sacrament was administered to one person, at her request, who had been a communicant in her younger days, but had been cut off from this privilege;, alas ! for many years, during her resi- dence in Quirpon. I took advantage of the occasion to explain to the little congregation the nature and purpose I: ' 66 •WANT or A MISSIONARY AT QVIBFON. [JVIY i iii lit i of the Holy Sacrament, and what is required of those who would be " received as worthy partakers." It was not, however, to be expected, perhaps hardly to be desired, tiiat upon such short notice and with such imperfect in- struction, any should be disposed to present themselves. The leave-taking and parting were taken and made with much apparent concern on both sides. I have not met with any people who have exhibited more interest in our visit, or have been more eager to avail themselves of our services, and of those benefits which the Church, through her ap- pointed ministers, proclaims and oifers. And it was impos- sible for any ministers of the Church, who believe that they have benefits and blessings to proclaim and give, to leave these simple and affectionate and earnest-minded people, ii.s sheep having no shepherd, without feelings of both sorrow and shame. Four years had now elapsed since any clergyman or minister had visited them ; and, after a sojourn among them of barely two days — not two — ^we were leaving them in their ignorance and destitution, without teacher, example, or guide ; " every one to do that which is right in his own eyes.*' Nor is their danger less, but rather greater, in consequence of the presence every sum- mer of numerous PreDch fishermen, (to whom they are in- debted for many favours, and who mix freely and commonly among them,) who, by their utter neglect of the Lord's day, on which they fish and work commonly as on other days, and it is feared by general indifference as to religious observances and duties, and entire unremitting devotion to their worldly pursuits and profits, must exercise a per- nicious influence upon the minds so uninstructed and prin- ciples so unformed, and lives so little regulated or restrained. I could not help thinking what would have been the feelings of poor Suckling ^ under such circumstances, and of wishing that some person of his energy, and devotion, and love of souls, could have had the oversight of these scattered (1) See " Memoir of the Rev. R. A. Suckling." London, 1853. 1868.] SUBSTITUTE FOR A MISSIONAEY. 57 flocks. I was assured, and have no reason whatever to doubt the statement, that many of the French fishermen would not distinguish the Sunday from any other day, or know it at all, if they did not see the English people " knock off," as the expression is,.^or cease from working, and observe it at least by the prescribed and customary rest. They also meet at the house of the only person who can read the service and a sermon, and join him, as they are able, in the prayers of the Church. To him they apply to baptize their children^ and it is not, therefore, to be wondered at that they call him, though but a fisherman like the rest, their Minister. He however is absent during the summer months, fishing on the Labrador, and then all common and united worship is suspended even at Quirpon. In answer to my inquiry whether the inhabitants of Eor- tune and Griquet attended this service, when held at Quirpon, I was told, "scattered times," and "scattered" is the common term, or expression, in Newfoundland, for *' iew and far between." I left many children's and school-books, with others ; but where none, or almost none, can read, it is indeed casting bread upon the waters ! God grant that some of the seed sown this day, watered by dews and showers from above, in answer to the prayers of Christian people, may be found hereafter to have fallen upon good ground, and have been kept in honest and good hearts, and have brought forth fruit. We sailed from Quirpon immediately after the Service, and escaped from the Tickle just before the wind came ahead. We were upwards of eight hours beating to St. Antony against the tide, and a very strong head-wind, and did not reach the harbour till dark, and had then to beat in, a service of some difficulty and danger, as the captain was not " acquainted." Saturday y July 30M. — In the morning I called upon the three families on the south, and in the evening on the two families on the north side of St. Antony's Harbour. I examined the children in one family as to their knowledge i 58 IGNORANCE OP RELIGION — METHOD OF ROWING, [tvtt of the Creed and Lord's Prayer, and was shocked to find that none of them, and they were five or six in number, and the eldest probably twelve or thirteen years of age, could repeat either of them, or any otlier prayers accurately or intelligently. This was the more deplorable as the father is a person of good education, and has plenty of leisure. It was different, I am thankful to say, in all) or at least the other three families, in the harbour. I en- treated the mother, who is also a person respectably brought up, to remember that her duty to her children is the same here, at least in respect of their religious know- ledge and spiritual welfare, as if they had continued with their former and more respectable connexions. Much it may be feared that even the religious education of children is too often for respectability and the world. V After our visits, we watched with some interest the return of the French boats from their fishing grounds; nearly thirty were pressing into the harbour at the same time ; each boat has two lug-sails, and three hands (two men and a boy). When they have occasion to row, they put out two oars on one side of the boat, and with the third oar they scull and steer. When, in the larger boats, there are four hands, three pull on the same side, and the fourth sculls. I could not understand what is the supposed advantage of putting out all the oars on one side. The boats are large and very heavy. There are five rowers, and seven large vessels now in the harbour; one a full-rigged ship, waiting for fish: one has already gone with a cargo. There seemed to be a large quantity of fish packed and dried on the shore; but we were assured that both here, and at Quirpon, and the intermediate harbours, the catch had been unu- sually short; and at the present time fish are exceedingly scarce. The operations of these establishments appear as regular and systematic as those of a manufactory. The men are said to receive very small wages, and all the arrangements 1893.] FRENCH PISHING ESTABLISHMENT. 59 are made and conducted with sufficient regard to economy ; but no necessary expense is spared. Tenth Sunday after Trinity^ July Zlst, — A couple who had been united by some neighbour, came on board the Church Ship, and were duly married. Divine Service on board at half-past ten o'clock. Evening Prayers at half-past three o'clock. Messrs. Walsh and Freer divided the services, and I preached at each. Six children were received into the Church. More Prayer-Books were pur- chased here than at any place we have hitherto visited, and some of a large and expensive kind, with Bibles and other books: and many persons applied for Alphabets and other lessons for children. Mr. Walsh went to minister to a sick person in the evening. I did not go on shore. It seemed, or rather it was, very sad to witness all the operations of the French fishing establishments, the boats sent out, &c. &c., just the same as in other days. There was not the least outward observance, p.iid, it may be feared, as little remembrance, of the Sabbath-day, to keep it holy. And it is the same through the whole season; every day is alike, and every day given to labour and worldly profit. And what is the profit ? or what are they profited if they could catch all the fish in the sea P Should such neglect of the Sabbath be general or common, how is it to he conceived, tiiat the people, as a nation, can be restored to any fixed < principles or rules of life ? I could turn with feelings of more complacency to the condition of my poor scattered sheep, inasmuch as at least their Sabbaths are not yet taken from them, and they may rest from their labour; and by that rest be reminded of their duty and their happiness. But oh ! that they might every Sabbath, (as they have this day,) " hear of heaven, and learn the way 1" Monday, August \st. — ^Having been requested to marry another couple, and baptize the child bom yesterday, and admit some others into the Church, who could not be brought to the Church Ship, I put off my departure for 60 PROTESTANT? AT QUIRPON. [Are. Twillingate; aud immediately after breakfast went across the Bay, in a boat with Messrs. Walsh and Freer, to the house of the sick woman, where we had appointed to hold the services. The parties were first married, and then two of their children, with three others, including the babe born yesterday, were admitted into the Church with the full service, after the second lesson. No previous oppor- tunity nad occurred of either duly marrying the parents or christening the children. In each case lay-agency had been resorted to, and it was pleasing to find that the first oppor- tunity of supplying the defects of such irregular ministra- tions had been gladly embraced. Whilcit was an occasion of rejoicing that the infant just ushered into the world could be baptized by a lawful minister, the parents were ' prevented by the event from following their neighbour's example, and being joined together in holy wedlock. Such is the condition of thirty-three families (Protestant) on this shore, between Cape Norman and Hare Bay, or within a distance not exceeding twenty miles. How I grieve, again to leave them without any provision for ycnng and old, sick and sinful ; and alas ! it may oe living and dying in sin. What cwi I do more, or better, than pray God to send a labourer? We returned to the Church Ship after the services, as we came, and I had the satisfaction of knowing that our de- parture had not been delayed by our visit; for there was no wind and a good deal of fog. The Captain, however, in his anxiety to get forward, began to make preparations for sailing; and to my surprise left soon after one o'clock, in the hope of finding a breeze before or during the night. The fog, however, thickened as soon as we were out of the Bay, and the wind did not come to our succour ; and we had the misery of hearing the waves beating on the shore, which we could not see, for the rest of the evening. Tuesday^ August 2d. — We continued in close proximity to Goose Cape till one o'clock this morning, when a slight air from the land carried us by eight o'clock this morning t tl [Are. 1858.] , GOOSE CAPE — OROAIS — CHANGE ISLANDS. 61 to the Groais Islands, about twenty miles. Here we were again becalmed ; but happily with n clear sky and sea, and, except for the delay, were well content with our place and state. At eight o'clock, p.m., the breeze again stirred, and gave promise of good progress during the night. This is the second, only the second, day since we left St. John's, that we have not had communication with the shore ; and it is somewhat remarkable, that on the former occasion we were becalmed nearly in the same place. Wednesday y August 3 We were fortunate enough to find Mr. Crosse at home, 62 i H «. HERHINO NECK— CONFIRMATION. [kVO. and I made arrangements with him to hold the Confirma- tion in his Mission on Friday, and to send word to-morrow to the Kural Dean at Twillingate. Thursday, August ^th. — Prayers in the morning at ten o'clock, and in the afternoon at half-past three. At the latter service I addressed the candidates. Between the service I called on several of the planters, and one poor woman just left a widow with eleven children ; house and all property will belong to the merchant in St. John's. The messenger sent to Twillingate returned without Mr. Boone, who could not leave home, but brought full occu- pation for the evening in twenty-seven letters, and as many newspapers. The former were devoured eagerly after the famine of news now of seven weeks' duration. We drank tea with Mr. Crosse at his humble residence. Friday, August 5th. — The Service with Confirmation at ten o'clock. Twenty candidates presented and con- firmed. I reduced the number considerably by advising that those under fourteen years should wait for another opportunity. It is hard to fix any precise number of years as the required " competent age." After the Con- firmation, the Lord's Supper, which, alas ! had not been administered since my visit, when the Church was conse- crated, four years ago. The consequences of such Ion disuse are seen, as might be expected, on the one band, in persons of careless mind, in ignorance, and indifference ; and among the serious and thoughtful in superstitious dread: in either case keeping persons away from that sacred feast which Jesus makes, the banquet of His blessed body and blood, appointed and ordered for the strengthen- ing and refreshing of our souls. Returning on board im- mediately after the service, we presently made sail, and had beaten to the mouth of the harbour, when a violent N. E. wind drove us back, and it was thought prudent to come to anchor again in our old quarters. We went on shore to prayers, and after tea, with Mr. Crosse, I returned to write answers to my letters, while my or O 18 1853.] TWILLINOATE — LABGE CONOREOATION. 63 companions remained to give some lessons ia Psalmody to the chief performers in the Village Choir. Saturday, August Qth. — Started for Twillingate at six o'clock, A. M., and did not reach our destination, not nine miles, until almost four o'clock in the afternoon, ten hours. Here I received, by accumulations of two more foreign mails, with numerous letters from clergy, making in all upwards of fifty letters in two days. It may be supposed that I feasteJ, or fed, to repletion, after total abstinence altogether involuntarj of S'^ven weeks. In the evening, after Prayers in the (Jhurch, I addr scd the candidates for Confirmation from the reading-desk Our eyes and noses were much refreshed by tl ^ sight and smell of hay-making in a decently-fence ; i> Id near the Rectory. I was further and more pleased lo tuid the in- habitants all in good health, and prepared to welcome and entertain us with many comforts which we had for several weeks been almost wholly deprived of, as fresh meat, butter, milk, vegetables, soft bread, &c. Eleventh Sunday after Trinity^ August 1th. — At ten o'clock I visited the Sunday-school, and was pleased to find it well attended, and several classes of well-dressed and well-mannered children, many of them candidates for Confirmation. Two or three cl? ; ^-s were brought before me to be examined, and I felt really almost at home again, almost a happy English parson. At the Morning Service in Twillingate church I preached, and administered the Holy Sacrament, assisted by Mr. Boone and my companions, to seventy-nine communicants. In the afternoon, in the same church, seventy-four candi- dates were presented and confirmed. The large church was nearly full, probably between 500 and 600 persons. 7Jhe Service 'was not concluded till nearly six o'clock. At half-past six, Mr. Boone went across the harbour with Mr. Freer to the Southside Schoolroom, where Mr. Preer officiated. u STAT AT TWILLING ATE. [AUG. if' I I i\ ili Mr. Boone has a third full ServiCe every Sunday on this side. At seven o'clock Mr. Walsh officiated at a third Service in the church. It is to be regretted that I cannot make my visit to this settlement considerably earlier or later in the year, as, during the whole summer, the majority of the young men are absent on the Labrador. Indeed, several whole families remove at this season for the fishery, which, of late years, has been very unproductive and unprofitable in this locality. It is supposed that between 200 and 300 persons are now absent from their homes. Monday^ August \^th. — ^Remained at Twillingate with the hope and intention of writing answers to some of my many correspondents ; but in the multitude of persons who desired to see, or to be seen, and to speak and be spoken to, little progress was made in epistolary duties. Mr. Crosse arrived from Herring Neck about eight o'clock, having started from home in his boat at four o'clock this morning, after his two full Services on Sunday. He was desirous to see and consult both with his Bishop and his bodily Physician. He sailed again just before dinner, and I fear without any proper refreshment, at half-past two o'clock, fearing he might not reach home before night. Mr. and Mrs. Boone, with some other friends, dined on board the Church Ship. Prayers in the church morning and evening, and in the evening a good congregation. I regretted that we had not prepared to preach. I believe the congregation expected a sermon, and not unreasonably, when the Bishop and three Clergymen had met them in the church. Disappointment, however, is, in some cases, better than a discourse. Tuesday^ August Yltk. — As I could advance so little yesterday in letter writing, I thought it right to remain another day in Twillingate for that purpose. I had an opportunity of making a few more calls, and of meeting 1853.] JOUENEY ACROSS NEWFOUNDLAND. as on an at the Rectory, in the evening, some of the principal in- habitants, which was pleasant to me, and I trust not un- profitable to any of the party. Shortly before dinner, a stranger was announced on deck^'*'^ and, to my great surprise, proved to be my friend Mr. Ensor / ^ who had just accomplished the arduous task of crossing the ( ^ island from west to east, which has not been attempted, / except by Indians, for many years. He entered at Sandy f \ Point, in St. George's Bay, and came out on the easterm. ^ coast, at Hall's Inlet. He was accompanied by two In- 1 1^, dians as guides. The greater part of the journey wasi" performed on the large lakes, one of them nearly ^orty \ miles in length, for which purpose it was necessary to be \ provided with a canoe, and dragging this overland M'as the / cause of great delay. f The journey occupied thirteen days, two of them Sun- days, on which they did not travel ; and, but for the necessity of dragging the boat, Mr. Ensor believes the whole distance J /• might be traversed in six days. He shot one, and saw many fine deer, but, with that exception, he encountered no animals. Wednesday, August V)th — After Prayers in church, we sailed, at half-past ten o'clock, for Moreton's Harbour, taking the Rural Dean (Rev. T. Boone) on board, and leav- ing Mr. Walsh to supply his place at Twillingate. Dr. Stirling also (the Physician) kindly accompanied us, to give us the benefit of his knowledge of the coast.^ With very light winds, we reached Moreton's Harbour about three o'clock, and at Evening Prayer in the church, I addressed the candidates for Confirmation, and they were directed to attend at church to-morrow, at ten o'clock. We were kindly and hospitably welcomed and enter- tained by Mr. and Mrs. Kingwell, who presented us, among other delieafjies, with the first chicKens of the season. At Twillingate we had received peas and potatoes, the first, I believe, of this year in the settlement. P ;iii [f h ! > V §0 TWILUNGATE— RELIGIOTTS DIVISION. [auoust Tkursday, August 11th. — Service in the church at half- past ten o'clock. The Kev. J. Kingwell, the Missionary, presented the candidates for Confirmation. Seventeen were confirmed, and after that service, twenty-four partook, with myself, of the Holy Communion. This is a lovely, peaceful Harbour; and the natural would be followed and enhanced by social and religious peace, but for the uffual division of the Protestants between the Church and Methodism. When the Methodist preacher cannot visit the place, all the (Protestants) inhabitants attend the services of the Church ; but on his arrival a division or separation is made, and feelings of rivalry or jealousy are engendered or re- vived, which mar the beauty with the peace of the Harbour. The Methodist local preacher residing at Twillingate, with their Superintendent from St. John's, arrived this evening ; and the same people who had attended the services of the Church this morning, hoisted their flag in honour of them and their Mission. I visited, with Mr. Kingwell, several families, and witnessed, unhappily, much sickness and po- verty. One poor woman, lately made a widow, with seven children, was in great distress. Having suffered in the spring from want of food, her husband with two sons (their second and third) had ventured (impelled, I fear, by hunger) to cross the Bay to Twillingate, in the month of May; but, instead of returning with food, in a few hours their empty boat floated on shore, and told all that was erver kn^wn of their melancholy fate. I found the poor widow in the house of her late husband's brother, whose wife was apparently sinking under dropsy, with a daughter in a very feeble, distressing state. I fear it is too certain their sickness and sufferings also are aggravated, if not wholly caused, by want. The fishery has been for several seasons very bad in this Harbour, and these families appear, from some cause or other, to have been peculiarly un- fortunate. 1853.] wahd's harbottr— the chubch-builders. 67 Friday^ August Vith. — We removed to-day to Ward's Harbour, (thirty-five miles,) with a very light breeze, sail- ing at five o'clock, and coming again to anchor at three o'clock in the afternoon. Mr. Kingwell followed in his boat, (this place, with all the Bay to the north of Twillingate being in his Mission,) but could not leave before ten o'clock, and was twelve hours making the jouniey. Mr. Boone went on shore, and found the principal planter, through whose exertions chiefly the little church (a very humble but neatly finished structure) was built, prepared to receive and welcome us. He showed his church with modest satisfaction, which, though only a wooden room, twenty-four feet by eighteen, M'ith five square windows, has cost him some seventy pounds, besides labour; as great a sacrifice or expenditure perhaps for him, as the whole cost of a cathedral would be to some of those "that have riches." He was very desirous to have the building consecrated, and with it the land adjacent, which he and his neighbours had marked out for a grave-yard. I felt little or no difficulty about tlie church, but could not consent to consecrate the grave-yard while it had no fence. He met that difficulty by engaging to put up a temporary fence of stakes and nets to-monow, and a more substantial one of rails and pickets before 4the winter. Feeling sure that his promise, God willing, would be performed, I did not hesitate to grant all his request. He spoke to me with much deep and right feeling of a neighbour who had been his chief associate and assistant in planning and building their church, and whom, after watching over and tending in a long illness, as tlie physician of both body and soul, he had lately consigned to his last resting-place, in the grave-yard of their own choice. " He had been wild," he said, "in his younger days, but for three years he had been an altered character, and before his death he told me all he had done wrong." The poor man, it seems, had recognised the duty, if not the privilege, of the Apostle's injunction 6[8' VISIT TO NIMROD TICKLE. [august t ! ** Confess your faults one to another ;" and that other duty and privilege had not been forgotten by his friend, "to pray one for another." We walked together to some of the lovely harbours or " Arms," as tliey are called, and I was pleased to observe several large patches of land under cultivation, with promising crops of potatoes, &c. I derived milch gratification, and I hope some instruction, from my walk. Saturday^ August \Zth. — While Mr. Kingwell was em- ployed preparing his candidates for Confirmation, and Mr. Freer in measuring and laying down the church, grave-yard, and small portion of land for a glebe, I journeyed with Mr; Boone in a boat t'^ a neighbouring settlement, called Nim- rod Tickle (nine miles). We left at half-past eight, and did not reach our destination till two o'clock. We visited all the families, six or seven, all happily members of the Church, and remarkably clean and tidy in their dwellings, &c. Our stay was unfortunately very short, and it was well we did not remain longer, as we were four hours in returning. We, however, arrived in time to visit the church and grave-yard, and inspect the preparations made for to-morrow's holy services. We found the fence of nets and stakes duly set up. My lectern was carried into the church, to supply both reading-desk and pulpit. A better table also had been placed at the east end, and a stand erected for the "font-basin," that at least, in outward things, the Apostle's injunction might be observed, and all things be done decently and in order. yith Sunday after Trinity, August \^th. — Tlip, little wooden building was duly consecrated and dedicated to the honour of God, and his worship and service only, by the name of Christ's Church — and, I trust and believe, with all due devotion and readiness of mind, if not with all the formality and circumstance of such services, in more favoured or more wealthy localities. A Missionary Bishop, with two Priests and a Deacon, and a few simple-minded and devout fishermen, were perhaps as suitable in setting 1853.] CHURCH AT WA11T)*S HARBOUR CONSECRATED. 65) apart this simple wooden structure, in a remote Harbour of Newfoundland, as tlie more splendid processions of our native country, to testify their zeal of God's House, and of His holy name. The administration of the Lord*s Supper followed, as I suppose it always does if possible, the con- secration of the house, if it does not rather form a part of the service. I was thankful to observe the worthy pro- moter of the church, with all the members of his family who had attained to a proper age (six or seven in number), devoutly attending and partaking together of this heavenly feast. In the afternoon the same parties were all confirmed, as I make no scruple of admitting those persons to the Holy Communion in the morning who are about to be con- firmed in the afternoon, according to the permission of the Rubric, in reference to those who "are ready and desirous to be confirmed." Grandparents and parents with their children took upon themselves, (I hope and believe devoutly and intelligently,) and in the presence of the congregation, those vows and promises which they knew to have been binding upon them, and by which they had been bound in their hearts and lives long before. Two children were baptized after the second Lesson ; and at the conclusion of the service and sermon, the petition for the Consecration having been read in the church, the grave-yard was con- secrated, the people walking the bounds, and repeating the Psalms with myself and the other Clergy. The day was warm and bright, and the air clear and calm, and Ward's Harbour was blessed in a Sabbath with God's richest mer- cies of nature and grace. I invited the worthy planter, with all his family and connexions in the neighbourhood, on board the Church Ship in the evening, to practise Psalmody, in which tliey take much delight, and are very desirous to improve; and they thankfully availed them- selves, men and women, of the opportunity; and I entirely believe we complied with the Apostolic precept, both speak- ing to ourselves and to each other ir psalms, and hymns, 70 NIPPER S HARBOUK. [AUGUST 1i l\ I and spiritual songs, and singing and making melody in our hearts to the Lord. They all agreed it was "the beautifullest house" and " beautifullest church" they had ever seen. y< Monday, August 15th. — We were favoured with a fair but light wind, and reached Nipper's Harbour before twelve o'clock. The title or name is rather an alarming one, particularly to thin-skinned Southerners, as the Nipper is the largest and most formidable of the mos- quitoes; and it might be supposed that the Harbour obtained its affix, or distinguishing title, from the number of these tormentors. Probably, in former times, the Har- bour was full of wood ; but as the wood has diminished , till almost none remains, (as is unhappily the case in nearly every inhabited Harbour,) the flies have become less numerous and troublesome; and they are everywhere fewer than usual this summer. The shore or outward face of the rocks, on this side of the Bay, is most barren and forbidding — not less so than Labrador ; but concealed behind or within this iron-work are beautiful coves and bights, well wooded, and with abundance of wild grass and other vegetation, and, where there are inhabitants, potatoes and other garden produce. Mr. Kingwell, who followed us in his boat, arrived soon enough to accompany Mr. Boone, and to visit the people on shore, and invite them to our Evening Service on board. There are several planters here of apparently considerable opulence and re- spectability, living in decent houses, and with many com- forts. One of the principal is an Englishman, but resident here thirty-three years. His comforts may be in some degree due to four noble-looking sons, the youngest nine- teen, all unmarried, and living and working at home. At the Evening Service, all these four were confirmed on board, with a few others. There were several more candidates, but they were deficient in knowledge, and Mr. Kingwell had not been able to give them the necessary instructions. Those presented were selected as well prepared and 1853.] VALUE OF MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE. 71 seriously disposed. Our cabin was filled with a most respectable aud attentive congregation. I exhorted them, among other things, to proceed with their Church, which, though but a wooden structure like the rest, has been many years in progress, or rather not in progress, but standing still, and not so much for want either of ability or desire on the part of the people to finish it, as for want of some person to direct and order them. Could the Missionary remain but a fortnight in the place, to assign their parts and overlook and encourage them, he might see the good work completed, without his labour or other assistance, by the people themselves. It is obvious, however, that by a knowledge of joiner's and carpenter's work, he might materially assist as well as encourage; and I think it of importance that instruction in such matters should be given, in due place and proportion, at St. Augustine's and other Missionary Colleges. It is of far more importance, however, even in these works purely mechanical, that Clergymen should know how to direct and employ the mind and will of the people. The presiding mind is more necessary than the helping hand ; and there is, of course, some danger of a Clergyman losing his proper place and influence, in descending to manual labour and cooperation. In this Harbour, however, twenty stout and handy men would, I believe, be found, needing no help or direction beyond exhortation and admonition; and a decent church might be completed in a fortnight. I was truly grieved that my stay must necessarily be so short ; and I did what lay in my power to know and be known by the principal people, by receiving and conversing with them in my own cabin afte/ the service. Tuesday, August 16M. — Again we were favoured with a beautiful morning and fair wind, and we ran back across the Bay to the eastern entrance of the Leading Tickles, between twenty-five and thirty miles, before twelve o'clock. Mr. Kingwell followed in his boat as yesterday, and, being (/ It u % 78 LEADING TICKLES — A ZEALOUS PLANTER, [august able to take an inner run among islands, arrived nearly as soon as the Church Ship, though he had been left far behind in crossing the Bay. This Tickle runs behind and among several islands beautifully picturesque, being of all shapes and sizes, and still covered with wood and other verdure. \ 'We came to anchor in the narrowest part, with decent and comfortable dwellings on either side. Among them was that of a respectable planter, who has read the Church Service to his neighbours, and kept Sunday School without fee or recompence for fourteen years — first in his dwelling- house, and subsequently in a little store, which he has ap- propriated for that good purpose. While Mr. Boone and Mr. Kingwell rowed about the Tickle, which is of considerable extent, probably three miles in length, to collect the people, I visited this good Samaritan, and gladdened his heart by supplying him with various little books and lessons for his Sunday School. He expressed a strong desire to receive a licence from me as Header, though I made him understand that he would have to bind himself by certain rules and regulations, whereas hitherto he has been quite free and independent, and that I could promise him no payment or recompence. He took me in his little boat to visit the frame of a church, which has been somt time set up, and which would have been proceeded with but for the same want of direction and superintendence as at Nipper's Harbour, of which indeed some, not so well disposed as their neighbours, take ad- vantage, and decline their share of the work and expense. There are however here, as in the last two Harbours we visited, several well-disposed and earnest-minded planters, only requiring the presence and advice of their Clergyman to be even abundant in tlie good works of charity and de- votion. " It is a pleasant place," said a poor woman in answer to our remarks on its beauty and apparent fruitful- ness, " but my husband is very sick, and there is neither ■doctor nor minister ! " And she left us in tears, carrying Away a Bible (which she gladly purchased and paid for), 1853.] CONTRAST WITH THE GOLD-FIELDS. 73 s good with some books for her cliildren, and medicine. The num- ber of people in this Tickle exceeds one hundred, and we had the largest congregation ever yet assembled on board the Church Ship. There were probably eighty persons, but as the evening was very fine, we put open the large sky- lights, and by that means enabled several who remained on deck both to hear and see. We could not, in any " Underneath the fiery stranger was a beautiful arch qf Northern Lights sending up ever and anon its glittering slial'ts, or rising and falling in a body, if body that can be called, which is but an emanation or effluence. Jupiter was shining gloriously in the south-west, and his moons were distinctly visible through a common ship's telescope. The whole sky was studded with stars, and presently the modest moon slowly raised three-quarters of lier face in the eastern horizon. It was quite a time and l)lface for an astronomer, and I coveted, I confess, the presence of some of my scientific friends, with their means and appliances, to make me better acquainted with " the shining frame," and all its wonders and beauties. In the meantime, the best lesson to be learned from theiii has been taught by an inspired prophet, and taught equally to the scientific and simple, " Lift up your eyes on high, and behold who hath created these things, that bringeth out their host by number: he calleth them all by names by the greatness of His might, for that He is strong in power; not one faileth. Why sayest thou, O Jacob, and speakest, Israel, My way is hid from the Lord?" Wednesday/, Si. Bartholomew'' s Bay. — We were still favoured with lovely weather, and the congregation in the church at nine o'clock this morning v/as nearly as large as those of yesterday. I preached in reference chiefly to the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, which, sad to relate, has only been publicly administered once since my last visit, an interval of four years. Immediately after this Service, Mr. Boone with his little boy, my godson, who had now been with us on board the Church Ship a fortnight, took his departure in the boat for Twillingate, and happily with a fair wind which we hoped would carry them home fifteen miles before night. I had intended to sail for Seldom-come-by, a harbour in Fogo, where several famihes have lately settled, about sixteen miles from our present position, but the wind, fair for Mr, Boone, was against us, Q 1ji ¥> i ik'r r I lit i' I ! I ii : i! ; l! r ^ SELDOM-COME-BY HARBOUH. [AuorsT imd we had no choice but to remain, as the cliann'el is not safe in the dark, being full of rocks, o)i one of which a vessel from England was wrecked this summer. The detention was in itself very agreeable to me, and I think to some otbers also, and I trust not unprofitable. It gave me an opportunity of calling on several of the inhabitants at their own dwellings, and of again meeting them in the house of God, where Mr. Walsh preached a plain and useful sermon. Tliis is the rnly church in which I have been enabled to hold four full services during this whole Visitation, and all have been well attended, and I trust and believe our Lord's gracious promise made good, " Where two or three are gathered together in my name, there will I be in the midst of them." Thursday y August ^5th. — The wind was still ahead, but starting early and with a pilot, we beat to Seldom-come-by by two o'clock. It was my first visit to the place, as the families settled there, if they are settled, are very few. They are chiefly from Conception Bay. The harbour is excelleh; ,.nd easy of approach, and is frequently visited aS a place of rest or refuge, by vessels coasting along this shore ; so that its name of Seldom-come-by seems only justified by its hitherto wanting any or many settled inhabitants. It is not, however, in the track of vessels— and the fishing grounds are not, I believe, convenient or very productive. There is, however, abundance of wood, and the land seems as good as in any part of the Island of Fogo ; which is by no means the least available for cultivation in New- foundland, however unpromising the appearance of the rocky harbour and its shores. These circumstances seem to point to the further occupation of the place, and made me anxious to pay it a visit, and make some provision if possible for tiip, spiritual necessities of the present and future inhabitants. The cottages unfortunately are scat- tered round the Bay at considerable intervals; I called, however, at several of them, and visited the proposed 1833.] MISSION OP GRBENSPOND. 83 burial ground, which I exhorted them to clear and fence. We also chose out a spot for a school-room, to serve for tlie house of prayer, till their circumstances may require the erection of a church, and enable them to attempt it. Notice of our intention to hold service on board was cir- culated, and at six o'clock the little congregation assembled. Several children were received into the church, and after the Prayers, I addressed them, and dismissed them with the first Bishop's blessing pronounced in the place. Friday J August 26^A. — The wind was light at the time of our departure from Seldom-come-by, and when we reached the notorious Wadham Islands {famosos scopulos) about noon, quite died away, and we drifted so near to one of the rocks, that it seemed probable we should be obliged to anchor to prevent our running on shore. But about two o'clock the tide happily carried us off, and a light air sprang up in our favour, which continued to increase till evening, when v/e were advancing so fast as to be in some danger of passing Greenspond as we had done Twillin- gate. The distance to Greenspond from Seldom-come-by is about fif};y-five, or sixty miles. Saturday, August 'ilth. — Off Cape Freels all last night. The night fine and moderate, but as usual with considerable swell near the Cape, enough to keep me awake all night, after so many quiet dozings in harbour. We were obliged to lie to, but happily did not go to leeward, and with the first dawn we found ourselves just off Greenspond, and soon after six we were at anchor. The Bev. Messrs. Moreton and Dyer soon on board. All well. The desired and ex- pected supply of both foreign and Newfoundlanu letters awaited us, *ind occupied the bf st part of time, thoughts, and affections, for the remainder of the day. Service in Church both n orning and evening. Fourteenth ^lunday after Trinity, August 'iJ^th. — Went on shore at ten o'clock to examine the Sunday School super- intended by the Bev. Mr. Dyer. As usual the number of children was very large, more than 20O on the books, if . ■') 84 GRAVE- YARD INCOMPLETE. [auoust and more than 150 present. They appeared to me improved iu dress and behaviour. I examined the first and second class of boys and of girls. Morning Service at eleven o'clock. A large congrega- tion in which the men greatly preponderated in numbers. After the Nicene Creed, I addressed the people on the state of their grave-yard, the fence of which has never been completed, though consecrated four years ago. There is less excuse for" the neglect, inasmuch as the merchant (Mr. Brookhig) has kindly offered to give all the nails required, — so that in fact nothing but labour is de- manded of them. This is an instance, I believe, of what may be the effects of the voluntary system, especially in a large community, and what is everybody's business is nobody's. I could only point out the sin and shame of sucli conduct, and state that I might feel it my duty, if this representation did not avail, to direct the Clergyman not to perform any service in the yard, until the fence was finished and completed. There were sixty-three Communicants, and it was strange and sad to observe the change which then took place, the females now outnumbering the males, as before the males did the females. The Confirmation as usual in the afternoon, thirty-five presented, the proportion of males very small. In the evening at Mr. Moreton's house we had a rich treat of sacred music. • Momc(;//y August 'Hdth. — After a very wet and stormy night, there was a heavy swell and strong wind against us in our proposed course to Pinchard's Island, thirteen miles from Greenspond. We started, however, six in number, with an experienced skipper and two men in a whale-boat, determined, if possible, to keep our engagement. We chose the Tickle a'- the back of Greenspond Island to escape the heavy swell, but the wind was strong against us, and after we had made two or three tacks, the skipper strongly advised us to return. At Mr. Moreton's sngges- [august improved id second jongrega- nuiubers. ie on the ever been ;h as the fe all the xr is de- he effects mmuuitv, sould only and state n did not service in id. There e and sad 3 females s did the ,hirty-five lad a rich d stormy gainst us een miles number, liale-boat, ;nt. We [sland to gainst us, e skipper 3 siigges- 1853.] pinchahd's island— church unfinished. 85 tion, however, I still persevered, thinking we might at least reacli Swain's Island, which is about half way to Pinchard's Island, and which I should have to visit to-morrow. We were rewarded for so persevering, by finding the wind favour us so much j;hat, arrived at Swain's Island, we did not stop, but proceeded and reached Pinchard's Island before two o'clock. I had expected to consecrate a new church here, but the work had been unhappily stopped in consequence of an east window having been inserted of painled glass, with a picture of our Lord's crucifixion. T!ie window had been given by a respectable planter, but the subject was not chosen by him, nor by Mr. Moreton. It was left to some friends in England to select the sub- ject, who chose that of the Crucifixion, as I presume very common in our English churches in the present day. It however gave offence and alarm, and I felt it right on that account to advise its removal, and my advice was cheerfully accepted and acceded to by the donor and by Mr. Moreton. It may be feared that some of the offended parties had "private grief," not likely to be removed by this or any other concession. And when they applied to me to have liberty to remove the window before the service, I did not think it right to comply, being afraid of a party triumph, but I gave permission to cover it over for the occasion, or to hold tlie service in the schoolroom, as at first appointed. They all I believe preferred the cluirch, and were satisfied with the licence given them, and the service proceeded ac- cordingly. The candidates were confirmed, and addressed by me as usual. After the service was concluded I spoke on the subject of the window, and gave assurance that it should be removed, at tiie same time informing the congre- gation that figures of our Saviour and His Apostles are very common in the churches in England, and that the Cruci- fixion is frequently represented in the east window, without offence. I explained also the meaning, and desired use of such pictures in churches. And lastly I exhorted them to proceed and £ ^ish tlieir church, which promises to be one r 86 SWAIN*S ISLiND.— fool's ISLAND. [avoust l^' - 1' !!. tl of the most correct and satifactory (at least internally) of all the churches in Newfoundland. Externally there appears too much roof, which not only holds most wind, but admits the snow under the shingles. I have appropriated 35/. of the Society for the Promotion of Christian Know- ledge grant to this church, and heartily wish, if it were in my power, to devote to it another sum of equal amount. We left the island at half-past five o'clock, and arrived along- side the Church Ship at nine. We were happily provided with a pilot well acquainted with the numerous rocks, which otherwise we should not have sailed between and among with comfort. Xhis is the first day since we left St. John's that we have missed " Morning Prayer," either on shore or at sea — the Prayers have regularly been said, and the lessons read every day. In the boat it was impossible. Tuesda^y August ZOth. — In the same good whale-boat, and with the same kind pilot as yesterday, we sailed first to Swain's Island, where we celebrated morning service. There were not any candidates present for Confirmation. Several made application for tickets this morning, but as they liad neglected to signify their intention, or will, before, they could not, of course, on such short notice, be " examined and approved." It was gratifying to see a large quantity of fish on the fiakes of the two principal planters, whose crews had just returned from the Labrador with good " voyages." v In the afternoon we had service with Confirmation at Pool's, or ^Fool's Island. In each of these islands there is a church, remarkably clean and neat, though quite in the early Newfoundland style, with two pulpits ; one on either side of the communion-table, and each so small that it was with some difficulty I squeezed in. They are a simple and modest race, and chiefly indebted to the lay reader for their public services, as Mr. Moreton, unhappily, cannot visit them on Sundays more frequently than twice or thrice in the year. - - i^T- ■!^-,-«'^ :*A.*i in ^^ .tv.w-.'va- 1«5S.} 600SEBEKBY ISLAND. — ^i.UBOIU. BOBEALIS. 87 be We vere benigUted in returning to our Church Ship, and to save time we landed at the back of tlie Greenspond Island and walked across. After pleasant rest and refresh- ment in the Parsonage we took leave, with prayers and a blessing, ready to sail to-morrow in the Church Ship to Fair Islands. ;;. JTefUesda^f Atigust 2k\»L — I have never been favoured with v^fair wi«d to the Fair Islands, and though we started to-day before nine, we did not make the harbour (a dis« tance of only nine miles) till after one o'clock. We however landed Messrs. Moreton and Dyer on the outer shore of the island soon after twelve, that they might get together the candidates for Confirmation, and inhabitants for the afternoon service. All were duly assembled and prepared on our arrival. Divine Service at four o'clock, when many young persons were confirmed. Being ^irery desirous of getting forward, we left immediately after the service, hoping to reach the Gooseberry Islands, our next harbour, said to be only six miles ojS', before night The wind how- ever died away at sunset, and it became quite dark before we could make the harbour. We crept round the point of the island, and, just as we were feeling for anchorage, the Aurora suddenly and most opportunely shed around us its soft but abundant light; I think, the softest and most beautiful light, in nature. It was nearly ten o'clock, and Messrs. Moreton and Dyer immediately went on shore to advertise the peopL and to procure a lodging for thea^T selves. . */ Tlmrsda^j September \st. — Divine Service in the school- room at Gooseberry Island (there being no chuich) with Confirmation. Several of the candidates, with other in- liabitants, were unfortunately ^one to St. John's, and the congregation consequently was not so large as at my for- mer and first visit four years ago. At twelve 6'clock we started in a large fishing boat with H crew of four volunteers, kind, intelligent, and active men, for Flat Islands i six miles only for a small craft, but more l;i iH 88 PLAT ISLANDS. — EXTENSIVi; MISSION. [•tPT. ft i' I I lU.' I !'■ ?•■ for a larger vessel, and not very safe passage. We per- formed the journey in little more than an hour, and nothing could be more pleasant than sailing b'>; ween and among these most picturesque isl »nds in such lovely weather. In this settlement also the service was, of necessity, in the school-room. It was very fully attended. One very respectable planter, a salmon-catcher, had come from his residence up the bay, twenty miles, to be confirmed, and brought two daughters in his boat, one of whom ^ as con- firmed also. Tie had been much disappointed ai missing me on the occasion of my former,visit. He is av Eiif 'isli- iiian, and although he has resided many years (twenty-mne) in his solitary abode, (enlivened however by six seen r' ildren of his own family,) he appeared to retain a lively recollec- tion of, and interest in, the services and ordinances of his Church. Ha had been generally prosperous, but this sum- mer is the most unsuccessful in all his experience. He was not, however, dispirited, or backward in offering his usual ackiKJwledgment to his Clergyman, which he always remits with punctuality and cheerfulness, though he cannot ex- pect from him more than one visit in the year. In return- ing to Gooseberry Islands we again felt the inconvenience of a largt boat, first with a head-wind, and then with none. By the help of our sweeps we reached our vessel f^bout nine o'clock, after a busy, but very pleasant, n' d, I trust, not unprofitable day. The weather continues most beau- tiful. After tea on board I took leave of my faithful friends and fellow-helpers, Messrs. Moreton and Dyer, having uuw completed the circuit of Mr. Moreton*s extensive Mission, and celebrated Divine Service in five churches and two school-rooms, each in [a different island, and given Con- firmation in six. In these, and in the other little islands in the Mission, are upwards of 2,000 members of our Church. What an awful charge; and how trying and distressing to body and [mind ; how particularly so to a feeble body, and an earnest anxious mind ! I tremble to think of the sad per- 1853.] KING S f'OVE. — CONFIRMATION. 89 consequences of a too probable suspension of ministerial services, even for a brief period. Heaven forfend ' Friday^ September 'id. — At six o'clock we were on our way, M itli a fair wind, for King's Cove, Mr. Smitli's resi- dence, and the chief settlement in his Mission. We arrived abont noon, and had th • gratification of finding the vorthy mi: iionary at liome, and, wilii his lady and family, in good health. Prayers in the church in the afternoon, with a very respnctable con i^- legation. After prayers we drank tea at the parsonage and vV( re most kindly welcomed and ent. rtained. I foi liere some missing letters from St, John's, wiiich cleared up several doubts and difficulties which had arisen from the interruption of correspondence with my friends in ! he capital. Saturday, Sep ember 3d. — Finding a vessel about to sail for St. John's, w* were all busily employed in writing letters, with the usual services on shore at ten and at five o'clock. At each service a respectable congregation. Fifteenth Sunday after Trinity, Sept. Uh. — A cold stormy night was succeeded by a bright warm day, more wel- come from being unexpected. Large congregations, both in the morning and afternoon; many came from the neigh- bouring settlement of Keels, six miles distant. I have not anywhere seen more neatly and modestly dressed, or more nicely behaved candidates, particularly the females. Several of the young men were unfortunately gone to St. John's. It is sad to witness sometimes persons "renouncing" in profession " the pomps and vanities of this wicked world," at the same time making themselves as line as possible, far beyond their circumstances and stations. This evening we practised our psalmody on board, Mr. and Mrs. Smith, with their children, being present, and apparently much gra- tified. Monday, September ^th. — Mr. Smith came on board at six o'clock with a report of threatening weather, and urged us not to delay our departure lest we should be detained or not able to reach our next harbour. We had 1,1 I- i _ -^^ ^ ^^•:^^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ ,>\ 1/ .^^4, 1.0 I.I M IM lit m ... 1^ us US u u ^ ■uuu 14.0 2.0 I III! 1 1.25 III 1.4 \^ ^ 6" - ^ ^> '>> y^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 4^ 90 (»RBN HA^E.. [•nn*, arranged to walk to Keels, (six miles,) and hare Morning Service in the church of that settlement, should the veather be favourable, and then to proceed in oar vessel, which was to take us up in passing : foreseeing) however, the possi- bility, if not probability, of these arrangements being all disturbed by bad weather, Mr. Smith had prudently brought his candidates at Keels to attend at King's Cove yesterday, so that I did not hesitate, in view of the present heavy rain and expected high wind, to change my plans, and to proceed at once in the vessel to Open-Hall, about fourteen miles. The wind, as was expected, became very hi^h before we arrived, but after we had beat round Western Head was nearly fair, and by eleven o'clock we were anchored in the little Harbour Cove of Open Hall, or, as it is mote correctly, and properly, called Open Hole. It is quite ope» to the south-west wind, and we experienccid QQwidieci&bliQ incfH^ve- nienoe from the Iteavy swell. ,.-:^ ---/,, There are three principal settlements in this part of the Mission, wbich I have never before visited, (1,) Open Hall, and (2,) Tickle Cove, about three miles apart, and between them, about one mile from Open Hall, Kedcliff Island* At Hedcliff Island a church was commenced before my arrival in the diocese, and received some assistance from Bishop Spencer, who hoped that it might serve for all tho three settlements. The inhabitants of Tickle Cove, how- ever, the largest of the three, thinkmg it too distant, de- clined to assist, and in consequence nothing has been done beyond the frame, roof, rough-boarding, and first-floor, which was all I believe accomplished in the first year of its commencement. It has not been used. Divine Service is said by a schoolmaster in the school-room at Tickle Cove, and occasionally at Open Hall. They see their Clergyman three or four times in the year. A.<^(*H We walked to Tickle Cove, and bad tiie afternoon Ser- vice in the school-room. Mr. Smith said the prayers, and I made an address. The room was quite full. On leaving the school-room, wo found a plentiful repast provided for 1853.] SALUTBt — ^BEDCUyF ISLASD. 91 US by Mr. Candow, the resideDt merchant, but I had pro- mised to take tea with Mr.^Shears at OpenHalL We therefore ret«umed immediatelji but not so soon as to anti- cipate Uie purpose of the inhabitants, the male portion of whom we found before us in our path, veady, with their sealing-guns, to gif e the customary salute to the Bishop on his first %mt. Several volleys were discharged in rather painful proximity to our ears, and these were followed by three hearty cheers. ^ We arrived at Open Hall just before dark, and drank tea with Mr. Shears, the merehant of this settlement, from Devonshire. He lamented, as indeed he had reason, with several promising sons growing up, that there is no school- master in the settlement, and that the visits of the Clergy man are so few and far between. >vt <>■> Tuesday, September 6M*— *The half-finished church at Redcliff Island seemed, on the whole, the best place for the Confirmation, being between Open Hall and Tickle Cove, and affording more accommodation than any room in either settlement. It was accordingly fitted up with boards and benches for the occasion, and some sheets and cloths nailed round the apse to exclude the wind ; and, liappily, there was no rain, but a fine, bright, blowing day. The Candidates from the three settlements were in attendance, and after i^e Confirmation, with my address, as usual, the Holy Communion was administered. In my address I alluded to the state of the building in which we were eele- brating Divine Service, and exhorted the people to proceed with, and complete it, as for many other reasons, so parti- cularly in consideration of, and as a thankofi'ering for the unexpected and unexampled wealth this snmr er had sent to them, and a few neighbouring settlements, and broi^ht, as it were, to their very doors, by several immense " schools'' or shoals of the large black fish, commonly called ** pot heads,'* (from the size and shape of the head,) which have entered the bay, and been driven by the men on shore, and there kiUed. These fish, which are, I believe, a species of whale, 92 A "school" OP FISH. [SEPT. ¥ I (mammalia,) average from twelve to twenty feet in lengtli/ and tlie oil taken from each is worth from 4/. to 5/. About 1,200, it is supposed, have been killed in the bay, whicii would give nearly 5,000/. to be divided between five or six small settlements. When a " school" is seen in the bay the men get between them and the open sea in their boats, and by shouting and other noises, and throwing stones, drive the fishes to the shore, as easily, it is said, as a flock, of sheep. ' When arrived at the shore a scene of great confusion ensues. The men commence firing and harpooning, and tlie unwieldy monsters tumble one over the other on the shore, and bury themselves in the mud, spouting up water and blood. When all are slaughtered, for* it is seldom that one escapes, the men draw them to land at their leisure, and divide the carcases. I tasted, or rather dined, more than once on the flesh and heart of the young fish, and found them very tender and nice meat, better than the whale I had tasted and relished in Bermuda. Unfortunately the people are prejudiced against the flesh, or much of it might be salted down for winter use, and be of immense benefit. How blessed and seasonable the supply, when the fishery had proved an almost complete failure! ; The two merchants dined with us on board the Church Ship, as the wind would not allow of our departure, and in the afternoon we had service in the school-room at Open Hall, where Mr. Freer preached. After this ser- vice I visited with Mr. Smith a sick person at Kedcliff Island. Wednesday, September 7th. — We left Open Hall for Barrow Harbour at an early hour, and^with a fair but light wind reached our destination by ten o'clock. Our object was to visit the settlement of Salvage, three miles further on the same island ; but the Harbour of Salvage is so veiy diflficult of ingress and egress, that I did not again like to risk the good Church Ship unnecessarily, or run t^he chance of a long detention. Mr. Smith immediately 1863.] BAEEOW HARBOUB. — SALVAGE. 93 on our ariivid, went round in a boat to prepare the people for service, and at two o'clock I with Messrs. Walsh and Freer, walked or rather climbed over the hills and cfogs to Salvage : a rougher or more rocky three miles, to say nothing of marsh and bog, could not easily be found. We were rewarded by some beautiful mountain scenery. The little church was well filled, though the notice was short and many of the men absent ; several were confirmed. It was nearly six o'clock when our service was concluded, and as it would have been impossible to have clambered over the rocks and through the woods in the dark, we were rowed back by six stout fishermen in a cod-seine skiff. The journey by sea was as rough in its way and far more terrifying than that over the rocks and marshes. It was quite dark before we reached our Church Ship, and raining. Our crew came on board; three of them had been con- firmed this evening, and I was glad of the opportunity of giving them, with an additional word of advice, some / useful books and tracts. ^^/ , Thursday y Septumber Sth. — A head wind detained us all day in Barrow Harbour. But few families reside here, and many members of these were absent from home. Several, however, attended our morning service on board, and in the afternoon we went on shore, and called at the different cottages, and visited the place selected and used for a grave-yard, which the owner promised to have fenced, that it may be consecrated. He has with great perseverance cleared several patches of ground among the rocks, which if the soil were as fertile as the situation is picturesque, would yield a large return and recompense, but the land is wretchedly poor. Friday, September 9tk. — ^We crept out of Barrow Hai'bour with a very light but fair wind, which increased gradually to half a gale, and carried us in fine style to Catab'na, forty miles, in little more than five hours. The Rev. Mr. Netten, the Missionary, was quickly on board ; and after prayers in his church, we had the pleasurb of visiting his 94 CATAUNA. — BOKAYISTA. t»rr. new Parsonage, now just completed, after being four years in pr<^ess. It has been built by the people, with the assistance from the Church Sodety to the extent of £50 ; and, considering their limited number and means, is credit" able to them in eyery respect. A very excellent road, of considerable length, was made almost entirely by the women and children, assisted only by a few men, who brought the large stones for the foundation and sides. Saturday^ September lOM. — ^The Re?. Mr. Bayly, from Bonayista, paid us an early visit We all went to church together, and started soon after two o'clock (I, Mr. Bayly, and Mr. Walsh) for Bonavista, a walk of ten miles, but happily along a made and level and tolerably good road the whole way. There is no harbour in which a vessel can ride in safety in Bonavista, except in the summer months. I was therefore obliged to leave the good Church Ship for a couple of days, that I might not have to travel on Sunday. It is the first time I have lost sight of her a whole day for eleven weeks. We reached Bonavista soon after five o'clock, and were received with what is called a Highland welcome. Several respectable inhabitants came Out to meet us on the road, and as we entered the settlement we were saluted with repeated dischai^s of the Sealing guns. We went straight to the church, where many were gathered toge- ther to join us, I trust, in thanking Grod for bringing me once more among them, and asking Him to bless my visit to our mutual edification and the glory of His great name. After prayers I became Mr. Bayly's guest at the Par- sonage. To-dsy our captain obtained his discharge, being anxious to return to St. John's, from which he is about to remove with his family to Australia. I feel not a little uncomfortable at depriving the Church Ship of so careful and skilful a master, and taking in his stead (but there is no choice) the skipper of a sealing vessel. He is, how- ever, highly recommended as sufficient for my purpose. 185S.] CONFIBMATIOH ANB PSALMODY AT BONAYISTA. 9$ by the two most experienced and trustworthy of the inha-. Utants. Sixteenth Sunday after Trinity ^ September Wth. — The chnrch was well filled at the morning service ; Mr. Walsh said the prayers, and Mr. Bayly assisted me at the Holy Com- munion ; abont fifty persons partook of the Sacrament. In the afternoon the dinrch was more crowded than any person remembered to have seen it before. Many persons could not obtain seats ; the stairs of the gallery were occa- pied during the whole service. Nevertheless, great order was observed ; it was really an affecting sight, or at least it seemed, and was so to me. The candidates for confir- mation were the largest number ever presented in this church. One person was rejected on account of what appeared to me light behaviour. It is the only case of the kind, I rejoice to say, that has occurred during the Visitation. We drank tea with Mr. Bajrly's neighbours and kind friends, Dr. Skelton and his family, and were assisted iu our usual practice of psalmody by a piano, the first since we left Ferteau. Monday^ September 12M. — ^We had prayers in the church both morning and afternoon: and at the latter service I preached to a tolerably large congregation. I visited with Mr. Bayly the principal families of the place, and was happy to observe that everywhere he was kindly received. We again passed the evening at Dr. Skelton*s, for the pleasure of their hearty welcome, and for the benefit of some further practice of psalmody, with anthems, &o.; the evening was closed with prayers. Tuesday, September IZth. — I had appoihted prayers in the church at ten o'clock, but I was detained nearly half an hour by being obliged to answer a letter. There was again a fair congregation, and many took very kind leave of me at the churbh door, among othets two blind men, Ts-ho seemed much gratified by shaking hands with a Bishop. 96 ENLARGEMENT OF CUUBCUES. [■XPT. We proceeded straight from the churcli to return to Cata- lina. The House of God was the first we entered, and the last we left in this Mission, and it should be so in every Mission blessed with a church. The day was beauti- fully fine and warm, and I greatly enjoyed the walk. Mr. Bayly accompanied us, and we all (four in number) took by turns a ride on his horse. On our arrival at Catalina, there was sucU a gale of wind, that we had some difficulty, even in the quiet Harbour of Catalina^ in getting off to the Church Ship. I was happy to be again afloat, after my three days and nights on terra firma. Prayers in the church at five o'clock, after which I visited one of Mr. Freer 's patients (many having applied to him for advice and medicine), and we all drank tea with a worthy planter and trader, who has, out of small means and with a large family, assisted most liberally and cheerfully to build the new Parsonage. Wednesday, September 14M. — Confirmation, with an ad- dress as usual, followed by the Holy Communion, was duly celebrated in the church at Cutalina this morning. The church was very full; many were confirmed, and about eighteen partook of the Sacrament. The church in this place, like that of the neighbouring settlement, stands much in need of enlargement, though an enormous gallery overshadows nearly half the floor at the western end. There is great difficulty in knowing how to enlarge these buildings to any good effect. If we lengthen this church ten or twenty feet— and no other way of enlargement is very feasible — we should sacrifice the western gallery, which accommodates nearly eighty persons, and thereby gain a loss. So again in Bonavista church, with the galleries on three sides ; if we lengthen the church it seems necessary to extend the galleries, otherwise little additional accom- modation would be gained; and then the deformity and inconvenience of the pulpit, reading desk, &c. in the centre and just before the Holy Table must be continued. How- 1853.] A NEWFOUNDLAND PARSONAGE. 07 ever it is, 1 fear, but the old story of the Fox and the Grapes, *'Nolo immaturara uvam sumere;" and the sad truth is, "we have no means," and therefore the objections are many, and the difficulties insurmountable. At the Evening Service, Mr. Walsh preached. We then proceeded to inaugurate the new Parsonage, taking tea in it, and concluding the evening with prayer, hymns, and holy Scripture. It was the first time of using it, but within a month or six weeks, it is hoped, the good Mis- sionary may be rewarded for his patient occupation for five years of a very cabin, (affording but one room as "parlour, kitchen, and all," for himself and family,) by removing to this, in comparison, comfortable and commodi- ous, though really small and modest Parsonage. It consists of one sitting room and one kitchen on the ground-floor; and, over these, two good bedrooms, with two good-sized closets. In the roof is space for two sleeping apart- ments, but the cold would be too great to allow of their use in winter. It has cost about 229/., besides the sticks for the frame, and some gratuitous labour. The offices, however, remain to be provided, which should cost from 20/. to 30/. more. Such is a Newfoundland Parsonage, five years in construction, but which might have been compl ni in as many months, with command of sufficient means. Thursday^ September 15M. — We left Catalina this morn- ing for Trinity. The wind was light and ahead ; but we arrived before five o'clock, and just in time for Evening Prayers in the church. We drank tea with the good Kural Dean (Mr. Wood), who with his faithful Deacon (Mr. Crouch) is in good health. I found the Rev. Mr. Boland arrived to present himself as a candidate for Priest's orders. He has travelled from St. George's Bay, about 500 miles, for the purpose. Friday^ September 16/A. — A September gale all day, with very heavy rain. We were thankful to have reached our last Harbour before the equinox and full moon. I have never missed a gale at this season. H 93 CONFIRMATION AT SALMON COVE AND TRINITY, [sept. Saturday y September 17 th. — The gale continued all this day ; but the rain abated towards evening, and we were enabled to make some calls. 17th Sunday after Trinity, September IStk — Mr. Wood went across the Harbour at an early hour with his pony in a ferry-boat, to apprise the inhabitants on the north side generally, and particularly ai Salmon Cove and English Harbour, of ray intention to hold a Confirmation in the church at Salmon Cove this morning. ¥or this purpose he rode to all these settlements. It had been impossible to send them word, either yesterday or the day before, on account of the heavy weather. Nevertheless the people generally, and I believe all the candidates for Confirmation, were assembled at the church by ten o'clock, at which hour I arrived in a boat, accompanied by Mr. Walsh : Mr. IVeer was left at Trinity to take part in the service there. The church at Salmon Cove was full to overflowing. Many well-ordered, and I trust well-prepared candidates, were presented and confirmed. Though we commenced soon after ten o'clock, the service was not concluded till nearly One ; and the wind being ahead, we did not reach the Church Ship till three ; Mr. Wood accompanied us. Anticipating the possibility of such delay, I had appointed the afternoon service at Trinity at half-past three o'clock. Here was a second Confirmation, and Mr. Wood presented many more candidates. This is the first Sunday, during my voyage, in which I have been enabled to hold two Confirmations. The service was concluded at six o'clock. We had the usual refreshment of psalmody in the evening at Mr. Wood's house, assisted by all his family, except only one son residing at Bonavista, who was confirmed at my late visit. Two of the daughters were confirmed to-day. All seem to have a taste for psalmody. The day was happily, like all the preceding Sundays of my Visitation, very fair and favourable, which was the more gratifying after the heavy wind and rain of the preceding Friday and Saturday. Monday , September l^th. — This morning I visited the 1853.] EMPLOYMENT IN NEWPOUNDLAND. 09 settlement and church at English Harbour and had ser- vice, which was very well attended, though the candi- dates for Confirmation had been presented and received yesterday at Salmon Cove. We went in a boat, but the wind being against us for returning, with a considerable swell, it was thouglit more prudent to walk back to Trinity, about six miles. I called with Mr. Wood on some of his parishioners, well and whole, at English Harbour. In pass- ing through Salmon Cove, which lies on the road between English Harbour and Trinity, we were accosted by a fisher- man, son of a respectable planter, who was very anxious to be confirmed; having been on two occasions examined and approved for the purpose, and received his ticket, but each time hindered from attending the service by his avocations. He arrived at Salmon Cove in his boat yesterday afternoon from the upper part of the Bay, just too late for either of the services. He is thirty-one years of age, and has been already admitted, upon his desire to be confirmed, to the Holy Communion. Many such cases occur, and the number of male candidates is in consequence much smaller generally in proportion, than where the people have fixed settlements and employments. In fact the Newfoundlanders, men and lads, are continually on the move, especially now the practice of going to the Labrador in the summer has become so general. In the spring they (perhaps the majority of the young men) are absent in pursuit of seals ; in the summer, they proceed to the Labrador or other favourite fishing banks ; in the months of September and October, they are engaged in procuring wood from the Bays for their fires ; and before Christmas, many of them with their families remove into the woods for their winter residence. They are more commonly and generally at their propisr homes in the early spring, before the seal fishery, or in the latter part of autumn, when preparing for their migration or removal to the winter tilts. We found the walk rather fatiguing, though the road is good, in consequence of the many hills and valleys, and leo PEOPLE OF TEINITY BAY. [lEPT. we did not reach our ship till four o'clock. Service in the church every morning at five. This is the day on which, seven years ago, I and my good ship were preserved from destruction in that fearful hurricane by which so many better men and stouter vessels were overwhelmed. Seven y€ars ! /^ Tuesday/, September ^Qth. — To-day I remained in Trinity, chiefly to receive visitors on board, and to return some of the calls kindly made upon us. I renewed my ac- quaintance with some of the standing inhabitants, and among others a respectable lady ninety years of age, who seemed well to understand and appreciate the purpose of a Bishop's visit. The day was beautifully fine and warm ; and this, at once the most polished and picturesque of all Newfoundland's settlements, showed all its charms, enhanced by the kindness and courtesy of the people. It was very grievous, however, everywhere to hear the same statement and the same cry of " No fish in the Bay." The worst fishery ever known, or at least for the last twenty years, and the potato crop generally a failure. Many men with their families are in great difficulty and distress, from the sudden and unexpected abandonment of the Telegraphic road, on which they had been employed with the promise of large wages ; but the contractor has disappeared, and the men have been dismissed without any payment. The prospect for the coming winter is gloomy indeed, but God can provide. *' Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof." Wednesday, St. Matthew's Day, September 21*A — I had chosen this day, being a festival and the anniversary of the consecration of my Cathedral, for the consecration of a Church at Trouty in this Mission ; which though of course wholly of wood, and of the smallest dimensions, thirty feet by fifteen, has taken three times as long in completing as the Cathedral. The whole cost in money has not probably exceeded sixty pounds, but a considerable part of the materials has been provided, and much of the work done by the fishermen's own hands; and I believe the only car- [■EFT. 1B53.1 CONSECRATION OP TRINITY CHURCH. 101 penter or quasi carpenter employed, is tlio Schoolmaster of the settlement. Tiie result is a very neat, nicely finished and furnished church, with a roof of excellent pitch, and a western tower, surmounted by a trout instead of a cock for the vane. The morning was very unpromising, with every appearance of rain ; but having made a quasi promise and appointment, I chose rather to run the risk of a wet- ting than disappoint the people. We had to row up one of the beautiful arms of the Harbour, about two miles and a half, and then to walk across a neck of land to Cuckold's Cove in the Bay, where we took another boat, and we rowed about three miles further to little Trouty, one of the most picturesque Coves in Newfoundland. I was accompanied by the Rev. Messrs. Wood, Crouch, and Freer. I left Mr. Walsh and Mr. Moreton at Trinity, engaged, together with Mr. Boland, in writing their exer- cises and examination papers for Holy orders. We were received on our arrival at Trouty with a salute. The little church was more than filled ; several persons having come over from Trinity, notwithstanding the un- favourable day. All things, I believe, were done decently and in order, and we ventured to chant the introductory Psalm and the Canticles. 1 preached, and, assisted by Mr. Wood, administered the Holy Communion. The church was of course named after the Apostle of the day, St. Matthew. We took our intermediate refreshment at the house of a worthy planter, who has much interested himself about the church, and, according to his means and oppor- tunities, persevered in carrying on the work in the face of much discouragement and many difficulties. He appeared as pleased with and proud of his little wooden house of prayer, and as thankful for the day of its completion and consecration as many are with the churches which have exhausted the skill of a Scott or Butterfield, and been beautified with all the ornaments and enrichments that wealth can supply. He entertained his Bishop and Clergy with au excellent Newfoundland dinner, viz. tea, 102 CONSECRATION OP 6RAVE-YAKD. [BEVT. hard and soft bread, with butter, eggs, and toasted caplin in abundance. We had a second service chiefly for the sake of the con- secration of the churchyard. It was a thick dripping fog, and fearing it might turn to rain, I for the first time per- formed the Consecration Service before the Evening Prayer. The petition was first read in the church, and then all again left it, and walked the bounds as nearly as the rocky uneven surface permitted, chanting the 115th Psalm. The Prayer and Hymn appointed for the service were duly said and sung, and the Sentence of Consecration read, and a short address made, in the laidst of a fog which it was difficult to distinguish from rain. The whole congregation, how- ever, attended and appeared much interested and seriously impressed. After the Consecration, the Evening Prayers, with appro- priate Psalms and Lessons, and a Sermon, closed the so- lemnities of a day long to be remembered in Trouty Cove. We returned as we came, making two stages, and the latter in the darkness both of night and fog. I found my candidates for orders employed with their papers, having only gone on shore for the Prayers in the church, morning and evening. Intending that they should be similarly employed to- morrow, I obtained for them a lodging on shore, as I purpose to be taken with Messrs. Wood and Crouch in the Church Ship to-morrow, to Bonaventure, and to start at an early hour. Such was St. Matthew's day, 1853 ; a holy and a happy day. — Praise be to God. Thursday^ September 22fi?, — After waiting upwards of an hour for a wind which would not come, at least to us, the Church Ship was towed out of the Harbour ; but the little breeze we found outside was ahead, and that was succeeded by calm and fog, and fog and calm, so that we hardly reached Bonaventure, less than ten miles, in ten hours. We arrived just before dark, and Mr. Wood immediately went on shore to ascertain if the people were waiting for 1853.] NEWFOUNDL^LND ABCUITECTUKE. 103 or expecting us. But they bad reasonably concluded we could not come, and had made no preparations ; and we there- fore arranged for services, God willing, in each of the Bonaventures to-morrow, with the Confirmation in the afternoon. Friday^ September 23«?. — We walked over from Old Bonaventure, where the Church Ship lay, to New Bona- fenture, for Morning Service at ten o'clock. The distance is not more than a mile, but the road or path is very boggy and wet. The congregation assembled at the ap- pointed time, and among them several candidates for Confirmation, who were directed to attend at the other Bonaventure in the afternoon, as the church in course of construction there is far more commodious and convenient than the older one of this settlement, which indeed, in respect of arrangement or want of arrangement, is a good specimen of the early Newfoundland style. The pulpit is against the east wall in the centre; and under the stairs of the pulpit, and between the stairs and the reading-desk, is a small table, but there are no rails or other furniture by which its use might be determined. The pews are brought up close to the east end, and galleries of course on three sides, and so close together that people, I believe, might easily shake hands across the church. The congregation, however, is orderly and attentive; Mr. Wood said the Prayers, Mr. Crouch read the Lessons, and I preached. The Afternoon Service with Confirmation v^as held in the building designed for a church, at Old Bonaventure. It is considerably larger, as well as otherwise more church- like, than its neighbour at the other Bonaventure. There is an apex, which though much too small, will be convenient and comely. Planks and boards were put up for seats, and many brought chairs. The building was well filled, and thirty were confirmed. I preached as usual, and to a well- ordered congregation. It seems to be very unfortunate that these two settlements, so near to each other, could not have been satisfied with one church between them. 104 EXAMINATION YOU ORDERS. [sept. After the service and Confirmation, we made an attempt to sail for Trinity, to wliicli Mr. Wood and myself were very anxious to return. We were towed to the mouth of the Harbour by two crews from the shore ; but finding no wind, it seemed more prudent to return to our Harbour and anchorage for the night. Tiiere was no prospect of reaching Trinity before nightfall, and it seemed likely to be very dark and wet, so that we should have been all night in the Bay, and very uncomfortable if not worse. Saturday, September 2^th. — According to orders I gave last night, we weighed this morning with the first dawn of light. Being a little doubtful about the new captain, and particularly about his authority over his crew, I went on deck at five o'clock, and was thankful to find that we were just moving with a fair and light wind. As, however, we were short-handed, for neither cook nor steward was up, I took the wheel, and steered the good Church Ship out of the Harbour. It was raining apace, but, otherwise, th^ time for going out was very favourable. Outside, the wind was ahead, and we had to make seve- ral tacks, and did not reach Trinity till after ten o'clock. I found Mr. Darrell of the Theological Institution arrived from St. John's to offer himself for Deacon's orders ; he brought letters, both foreign and domestic. I immediately set him the questions I had before given to Mr. Moreton. The Rev. Mr. Smith also had arrived from King's Cove, to be present at the Ordination. After Prayers in the evening, I returned on board with Mr. Wood and Mr. Smith, and we read over together all the answers of the candidates to the questions I had given them in writing, and I then examined them in the presence of Messrs. Wood and Smith, viva-voce. The amount of learning displayed by each appeared to be sufficient, if not satisfactory — sufficient, that is, to justify their being pre- sented respectively for their different orders. Mr. Boland's learning, especially on controversial points, is very consi- derable. Oh that by life and doctrine they may set forth [SEPTi 1833.1 ORDINATION AT TRINITY. 105 rht in tlie glory of God, and set forward the salvation of men through Jesus Christ our Lord ! / Eighteenth Sunday after Trinity, Sept. 2oth. — I regard it as no small proof or part of the goodness and mercy wliich have followed us all through this Voyage of Visitation, that, with scarcely any exception, every Sunday, and every day of a principal and important service, have been fair and favourable. On no occasion have I had more reason to notice this circumstance, and be thankful for it, than on this Sunday, in which the crowning and most solemn service in the whole circuit of a Bishop's duties was to be celebrated, and which, even at the latest hour of yesterday, everybody seemed to expect would be wet and stormy. The morning broke fair and clear, though cold, and the day improved throughout in brightness and warmth till the close of the evening and third service, when, and not before, it again began to rain and blow; but then the Sabbath, and a great Sabbath it was, had passed, and its solemn services ended. After Morning Prayer ended, the Rev. Mr. Wood, the Rural Dean, preached an excellent sermon on 2 Tim. iii. 10, proposing the great Apostle's character, first, for investi- gation, that it might be fully known ; and secondly, for imitation, that it might be diligently followed; happily taking advantage of the twofold acceptation of the verb vaprjKoXovBrjKas, translated in our text, " fully known," but in the margin, " been a diligent follower of." He then, as the Archdeacon's deputy, presented the candidates for orders. Mr. Smith said the Prayers, Mr. Crouchread the Epistle, and Mr. Freer led the singing, which we ventured to conduct, on this occasion, independent of the gallery choir. The Canticles were chanted, and the longer Ordi- nation Hymn vras sung as directed in the service. I was assisted in the laying on of hands on those advanced to the Priesthood by Messrs. Wood and Smith. They also assisted in the distribution of the Sacrament, after I had first com- 106 EVENING SEKVICE AFTER ORDINATION. [sept. si municated the Clergy. The presence of a Bishop with eight Clergymen in the church, all in some way engaged in the Service, and that Service the solemn and important one of Ordination, wherein two were added as Deacons to the ministry of the Church, and two advanced to the. higher order of the Priesthood, is a great event and great advance in the ecclesiastical history and state of the settlement of Trinity, and, I humbly trust, will bring withit a benefit and a blessing, and fill some faithful hearts with joy and thank- fulness. A large number communicated with the Clergy, and I was pleased to observe among them several of my friends from Trouty. To make more profit, with God's blessing, of the pre- sence of so many Clergy, I appointed a third full service for this evening, and gave notice of service with a sermon every day that I should continue in the Harbour. In the afternoon Mr. Crouch said the Prayers, and Mr. Smith preached, and in the evening I closed the services with a sermon on 1 Thess. v. 12, 13, hoping the occasion might be favourable for pressing upon the congregation the earnest and affectionate entreaty and injunction of the Apostle ; for without this conscientious observance of the duties of the people to their Minister, it would seem there is little prospect of their being at peace among themselves. After the third service we all drank tea with Mr. Wood, but whether from our thoughts and feelings being too deeply engaged with the events of the day, or from any less wor- thy cause, for the first time of our so meeting, no psalm or hymn was sung, except the Nunc Dimittis after family prayer. Thus closed a day of deep and solemn interest, and on which, I trust, I may long have reason to congra- tulate myself and the Church in Newfoundland. Monday^ September 2QtL — I determined to remain to-day and to-morrow in the Harbour, (1) to complete the arrange- ments necessary on Mr. Wood's removal from this Mission, and Mr. Smith's promotion to it and the office of Rural 1853.] TWO days' sojourn at TBJNITY. 107 Dean ; and (2) to acknowledge, in the best manner I could, some of the many attentions I and my friends have received in this most polished, if not most prosperous, of Newfound- laud outbarbours, I was engaged on board nearly all the morning with Mr. Wood, and then received visitors and friends. One of the newly made Deacons, Mr. John More- ton, said the Prayers morning and evening, and Mr. Walsh preached in the evening. We drank tea at Mr. Sweetland's, the magistrate, and with his family continued our practice in chanting, with psalms and a few anthems, and the even- ing was spent pleasantly, and I trust profitably. Tuesday^ September 'i'Jth, — Another morning of converse with my faithful Clergy of this Deanery on ecclesiastical matters, succeeded by some visits from and to several of the many kind inhabitants of Trinity. Mr. Darrell said the Prayers, and Mr. Boland preached ; the congregation considerably increased. All the Clergy spent the evening at Mr. Bremner's, the agent of Messrs. Slade, and one of the present Churchwardens. We met several of the chief families, and the ladies joined with much interest and effect our psalmody, which was continued through the whole evening under Mr. Ereer's direction. Some, I hope, were singing and making melody in their hearts, as well as with their voices, and all, I trust, perceived the superiority of good church music, and of chants in particular, over the flowery unmeaning psalm-tunes which too commonly pre- vail in the parish choirs. I have great hopes that we have been instrumental in creating a more correct knowledge and appreciation of both the end and object, and of the way and means of speaking to one another and to God, in psalms and hymns and spiritual songs. Wednesday, September 28M. — Are we to be blessed with fair and favourable weather to the very end of our voyage ? This was the thought that crossed my mind when I heard the Hawk preparing for her last flight, at four o'clock this morning. I rose to give some directions, and was thankful to find every promise of a fine day. The wind too was fair, lOS KETURN TO ST. JOHN's. — THANKSGIVING. [sept. though very light. The Church Ship had now a precious freight — my four lately ordained, two Deacons and two Priests ; all accompanying me to St. John's, to diverge and depart again to tlieir different stations and places of labour; and Mr. Freer, who has not left the Ciiurch Ship a single night since we sailed from St. John's, fifteen weeks this day. The wind continued light and fair, and the weather in every respect beautiful. We did not make a single tack, and at sunset we were off Cape St. Francis, witliin twenty miles of our destination, and of the good ship's resting- place for the winter. At ten o'clock we were off the Nar- rows, when the wind altogether failed us, and we were obliged to put out our boat. At one o'clock the anchor went down, and on going on deck I found that we were once more at our first starting-place, all returned safe aud sound. My companions, indeed, were safe and sound in their berths ; and after congratulating and commending the " skipper " and crew, I had but one other duty to perform before I " turned in," and was at rest. Thursday, Michaelmas-day ^ September 29^A. — The Arch- deacon was first on board, then Mr. Johnson and other friends. I did not go on shore till the hour of Divine Service (11 o'clock). I then went up with my friends to the cathedral, and publicly returned thanks, fully prepared to join in the beautiful Collect for the festival, aud to thank that everlasting God by whose appointment his holy angels had succoured and defended us by land and by sea. The whole service seemed most appropriate to our con- dition and circumstance, and I never entered so fully and gratefully into it. Mr. Tuckwell preached ; I dined with the Archdeacon ; and it was a good day, holy and happy, as Wordsworth sings — '• One of those happy days that never die." Oh that I knew how to be truly and rightly grateful, grateful to God ! that I knew how to prove to him or my- self that 1 am so ! that 1 knew how to serve him, and save [sept. 1853.] CONCLUSION. 109 Nar- my own soul ! Oh that I may redeem the time, even before the evil days come, and the years when I shall say, I have no pleaisure in them ! I returned on board at night with Messrs. Walsh and Freer ; and lo, our steward and all the crew, save skipper and one seaman, had betaken themselves to their houses and friends on shore. We had to make our beds as best we could, of which useful branch of Missionary training two or three of the party had enjoyed considerable ex- perience. I occupied my berth the two following nights, and then removed to a temporary lodging. I have now been fifteen weeks and upwards afloat in my Church Ship, during all which time I have slept only three nights on shore, and then rather of necessity than choice. I have dined on shore, also only the same number of times. I cannot tell how to marvel and be grateful enough for having been again preserved in, and brought back from, this my seventh voyage in the Church Ship, without accident or serious hindrance ; and yet more, for having been so gra- ciously permitted and enabled to carry the blessings of the Church's services and gifts of grace to so many poor and scattered flocks on these wild and desolate shores. I trust the good seed has not fallen on the rocks or on stony hearts, but in many iustaift;es has found honest and good hearts, in which it will by God's blessing be kept, and bring orth fruit with patience. ORDER OF EPISCOPAL SERVICES IN THE VISITATION, 1853. COM8KCRATION OP CHUHCHE8. July 10th. St. Francis Island, La- brador. August 14th. Ward's Harbour, Moreton's Harbour Mission. August 22d. The Barred Islands, Fogo Mission. September 21 St. Trouty, Trinity Mission. CONSECRATION OF ORAVETARD8. June 27th. English Point, Labra- dor. July 1st. Red Bay, Labrador. July 12th. Venison Island, Labra- dor. August 14th. Ward's Harbour. August 22d. The Barred Islands. September 2l8t. Trouty. CONFIRMATIOKS. June 24th. Anchor Point, Labra- dor. June 26th. Forteau, Labrador. July 1st. Red Bay, Labrador. August 5th. Herring Neck. August 7th. nth. 14th. J 6th. 18th, 21st. 22d. 23d. 28th. 29th. 30th. 31st Twillingate. Moreton's Harbour. Ward's Harbour. Nipper's Harbour. Exploits Burnt l8l