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New York t4K09 ii^ ('16) 482-0300 -Fhore ("6) 268 -5989 - Fo, ^ y /99\ ' - ,:- \ '■ Q DOMINION OF CANADA DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE LOMINION EXPERIMENTAL FARMS DIVISION OF CEREALS THE USE OF COARSE GRAINS FOR HUMAN FOOD BY CHAS. £ SAUNDERS, B.A.. Ph.D., Domixiion Cerealist MM W BULLETIN No. 40 (SECOND SERIES) Published by Authority of The Hon. The Minister of Agricuiture, Ottawa, Ontario 1919. DO.\«INION OF CANADA ' 1^. allWrcmnttrh DEPARTMENT OF AGRICUL ^E ^Ij u' / DOMINION EXPERIMENTAL FARMS ' " DIVISION OF CEREALS THE USE OF COARSE GRAINS FOR HUMAN FOOD BY OHAS. E SAUNDERS, BA, Ph.D., Dominion Cerealist BULLETIN No. 40 (SECOND SERIES) Published br Authority of The Hon. The Minister Ottawa, Ontario 1919. of Agriculture, 64092—1 ^Ul Mtd^M TABLE OF CONTENTS. Tl.c liml ..f (■ni.r^-(• fond in |,,llHi;n illcl. \VI,..Mf Ol,tS Bnrl.v. .... Rye Iiidiitii (.'urn Pens ^^•i.II^ IkWi|HS. , . . Mi])* Pa< them as possible. I have the honour to be, sir. Your obedient se.-vsnt. Diri'ctor, Dorr ' S. ARCHIBALD, w:. Experimental Fartnt. THE USE OF COARSE GRAINS FOR HUMAN FOOD. Hy Cnxs. K. Smm.kus, H.A., I'U.W. Ihnniniou CmnlUt. II »• ..l..U-t nt tliLs l.ulK.tin is two-fold, first to sliow to f„rm,.rs t...„o.-allv, l.ut .-P.-mll> to tho... ,„ n-niot.. settlements, how the.v ean beoonie more nearlv ^elf- MitJi-u-Mt. ..o far ns the lood supply f„r them^-lves and for th..ir families is conoenie.l, Mtu! s,voMd. to ,,,„„t out. for the henetit of other ela,ses of people, some wavs of m.,on„z,ng ,„ ,1,,, ,..,,t „f their food, and of i.uprovinfr at fh.. same tin,,, the whole- somc^iess of their diet. Sueh a puhlieation is partieularly tinielv at the pr.^eut junoture. It i^ (h'sirahie to eneouraure airrieulturist those whose position is rather isolated; and it "^ '' 'iii'mnity t., practise the utmost possihle (vononiv Tn the early history of mankind, food was undoul.tedly often ,.,.nMuned in verv .■oar-e .ond.tion. While e.-rtain disorders of the alimentary traet n,av he oonsiden-d H.'..arn,. ,.r.st.e ot h,K-hly eivili.ed ; I... f.d on .h.inty and earelully prepared P.odu.'ts ,t IS prnhahle that primitive man had other difrestive ditti, ulties to e,.ntend the euar>.-ii.-,-s of !„> ve^retai.le t 1. ;,.ire taken to free tlu'm fn matter, which thev contained. Ii, m..,;..rn tim.- '■'"''■' ''"7 '"'; '"•'•''■'^ ^" »■''.■• »*"'f ""^ l'»v Mt las, reached a sta.^. where most people eon.umc to,) h,r^:e a pr rtnm of refim-d material an.! too little of l ooarse and rdativ.^y indi^r.-stihle suhstances. This fact is partieularlv eonsp.euous when we eonsnler the use. whnd. are n.,w nuele ,.f wheat ami „ther .-ereals. Modern machinery has been so much in.prov.d that it i- p„^i:hle to separate verv aceuratolv he ^roun.i ,.roduc,.. .,. that each por,i„n of the ,.rain is obtained almost entirely tree Iron, any other narts. W c are apt to re;rard thoe carefully separate.! portions as purer than the coarser matermls which our aneesf.rs ate, but the word '• purer •■ a var ed ,l,e . [he natural d.-sire tor t U in a hh^U state of purity and of excellent nu r>fve value t,nally led the „ut.l>c a .n„.d deal astray, both h.vause np,>earance i, not a sal,, ^uide as to ,|uality. and h.-'ause our knowh-.hre of the problems of human nutrition was. .md st.li .s, t.^. i.u.,.mplete t,. ,.md,le us to prom.un, utlior^.aliv..lv Z '.'.' !."l."\l!.?*:".,?'."r "^ "'"'"'"' ,"'"/!'■■'"'-• <■,!:<'"»'■'•. purity was estimated usuaHy >y a more pleasing a,.,M.aranc... ami this i, -urally l,.d to too ^r.-at .Mnphasis beinL- .h„-,.d on the ,-oIonr and r.^hmMiient of .>dihle pro.luets. Xot only was it eonsi,l,.n>d ■ hat th.-se must he fn-e from ,lirt and otli.T ohj,.etion«l,le ,>xtran,.ous matter but lh,.y musi Im attractively pr.-i«ir.Hi an.l put up. and must eonforni to .-erl .in offn v.iy arl.ii -ary. stan.tar.ls as t >lour and other eharacti'risties. Henee foPow'e,' ,)„. pra.-ti.;.; of bh.a.hintf an.i the us,^ on a ratihT lar^,. an.l somi-times .hinKerous s.-nle of artitieial .-.dounnK matters. pr,-servatives and adulterants. Altlu.UKh the an'.oni • of sophistication of foo,| materials was never an>thin« like as ^r-uit a,i the public has \m'n M to beli,-v,>. a iroo,! ,l,.al of i, o,.eurred. I.at.-ly. Ii,)wev,r. |HK)ple bav,- lK...,,m,. alarmed, som.. ste,». bav,' l>e,.ii lak. o t,. safeguard th,- welfare of the eommunitv and a d.cided reaction bus hejfuii .i>rain«t what may In- fairly ••ailed the ovor-purifiVitiun i»f foods. 8 The pui>lic must necessarily judge food very largely by th"* eye. Green coloured apples are difficult to sell, even when of fine quality, but a briRht red apple will usually fetch a goed price because it loolts superior, even though the actual flavour may bo but little better than that of a turnip. Almonds in the shell are bleaeh«f further information has been obtained, the only sane and safe policy is to eat a grcnt variety of foods, some of which (though not necessarily the cereals), should be uncooked, and to be careful to take a large enough amount of rather crude niiit.iiiil to k«;p the body in good order. In an economical and wholesome dietary, vegit:ililc8 and fruits both raw and cooked should certainly occupy a rather larger place than t'l.y ii.sually do at present, but there is also great need, especially when the question of cost IS being considered, to use a certain proportion of coarse grains such as oats, barlc.v. r.ve, peas and beans, besides perhaps utilizing more of the coarser parts of the wlic:it kernel than are generally consumed at the present time. The writer has no sympiithv with the ridiculous tirades which have been indulged in against higlily purifi.-d wlieat flour which is certainly one of the very best, purest, clieapest, and most whol.sonie of all food products, notwithstanding anything that has been said against it. It is. howeven not an ide^il food, as it d.ics not contain all that is neoiled for the human" body. But there is no object in seeking an ideal food, for it is both more nntur.i! ami more pleasant to eat a variety of foods and thus to make up for the dcficicM.-ics ..f each by the special good qualities of some other. It is no argument i-rainst an article in our diet to say that it will not by itself support life vry long. Nor. in comparing two articles, should one conclude that that one is best which would alone support life the longest. We do n.it require the best single food, but the l)est combination of foods. There is no rea.son whatever to set up the claim that the whole of the wheat kernel should be eaten. Xo one would insist on the eating of a whole jieach, including the skin and stone, or a whole fish, including the bones and entrails. We have as much right to select the parts of a wheat kernel which we wish to eat as to select the parts of a peach or a fish; but in the case of the wheat kcincl. the selection is not so easy or obvious and should be mad<> only after careful c.\|)erinient.s have shown what is the best course. In a diet consisting .-hiofly of fruits, coarse vegetables and bread, the latter would rirobably (almost certainly) prove most satisfactory if it were made from highly purified wheat flour,— as concentratinl nourishment as possible. But with ,i diet consisting almost exclusively of eggs, milk, butter, cheese and meat, it would probably be btist to use only very coars.' bread, containing nearly as much bran as is naturally present in the wheat kernel. Every article of diet must be consid.Tcd as pr.vt oi a system, and the quantity of each xhuh should be taken will depend on the ii.iture and on the quantities of the other foods consumed. While wheat is not usually includoa in the term " coar.se grains ", some references to It will be made in this bulletin, although the prime object here is to call attention to some cheap, economical and particularly whoh'^ome foods which have hitherto received very little attention. In the ordinary household the coarser part of wheat are seldom usod. oats are almost unknown except in the form of oatmeal, which is not made from whole oats, and which is eaten iw a rule in small quantities once a dav or .ess olten. Barley when used at all is in the f,.rm of pc arl or pot barley, from wiiieli the outer coatings have been removed. Hvc i> scarcely ever eaten, and corn, peas and licans arc much less cniploye<| than they should be. There is alt(gcthcr too much conservatism in the attitude of most people to- wards new foods. .Many .if ns never i.ass tiic childhood stag.' where we refer to onr own ordinary diet as " proper meat " and think that other people have "curious things to cat ". Indeed it is not uncommon to c.uisidcr that those whose diet differs from ours are not altogether sane in the choice of their food; hence ridicule is often thrown ..n the Chinese for eating rice, the English en account of their roast beef, the .^icotch lor their oatmeal, the Irish for their potatoes, the New Englnndcrs for their so-gv 10 i;i-wn l,roml and tl.- Frenoh Cuia.ii.u.s for thoir p.-^s. Tnstoad of ridiculing tlip hivo.r.t.. foods of other ra.-ps, it would l.o much wiser to adopt thcni as fur as po,- ^il.lc, and we should be Letter off in many instances if wc ate some of the " curiou. rhinjrs often enough not to regard as odd at all. Jt is the hope of the writer that this bulletin will serve a useful purix.se in callins attention to some particularly whol.^on... and e<'onomieal cereal foods which should be tound on our tables, and which can nearly all be obtainc.i without nmch ditfi.'ultv, ev.n though some ot them are not at present offered for sale by ordinary dealers. WHEAT. This cereal has certain advantages over all the others which make it particularly iittractive. ai.d on that account it has won a deserved popularity and is even used to c.xc.'ss. It rc.|uires less care and initiative to produce good foods from wheat than it d..e> to employ a variety of cereals, even though the latter plan be much better for lie:iltli. Some of the most valuable constituents of wheat are situated in the outer laver* ■ t the kernel just under the bran proiier, and it is a very interesting question how iiiuch ,.t the wlu-at kernel should be included in the ordinary diet of human beiu". I he ^ubje.-t IS not appropriate for discussion in this bulletin and it mav tln>refore suthcc to remark that the whole wheat grain when ground in a hand mi'll produces (nenl of rather too coarse quality f,,r regular use (except in small amounts) and that i certain degree of separation of the bran is essential if one desires to make ordinarv bicad. Such separation is inipracti.'able when a small mill is used. In regular flour- iMiiking the entire elimination of the bran is commonly aimed at, although a limited quantity of this substance may advantageously be eaten by many people who-e diet 13 o: very restricted range. Bran is, howeve.. rather indigestible and rather irritating in Its ordinary tl.iked condition and should not be taken in excess. The so-called ••wh(de wheat" tlour does not contain the whole of the wheat and ordinary rolled wheat IS also a partial wheat product, as some of the bran is removed before the urain is rolled. ShrcMlded wlieat, however, contains the whole of the wheat and proves that when bran is finely enough ground it makes good food. Coarsely ground or finely ground whole wheat can be used instead of any other gram meptioned in the ie,-ipes given in the next section of this bulletin, but it would be more desirable as a rule, from the point of view of diet, not to use wheat in the ways there described. .Most of us take t.io large a proportion of this cereal in our daily food, so that it is advisable to devise methods for using less of this and more of other grain.s, rather than to jioint out new (xissibilities in the use of wheat. It would be a pity to lose white bread out of our diet end there is no rea.son why we should do so if we aie careful not to eat it to the exclusion of proper amounts of coarser foods. However, if we were at any time .leprived altogether of wheat flour it would be worth while, if any kind of hand or power grinder were available, to use a certain amount nt ground wli,at for porridge, and also to n:ake tea bis.-uits and .'ookies from very tine meal, if the othe necessary ingredients could be obtained. For suitable recipes >ee the next section of this bulletin. OATS. Next .o wheat, Canadians undoubtedly use as food more oats than any other grain although the quantity consumed is not large; for scarcely any one, ex.ept a small nuiiilx-r of iieople of Scotch origin, employs this cereal in any other form than ax porrblge. While ordinary rolleii oats and oatmeal make excellent ix.rridge, tlie writer has found that the liulless or naked oat, such ua the variety called Liberty, Ottawa 11 4*^0, which he has recoiitly iiitrodm-fd. iiiiiii-ln- ^i prnrluct of di^riiK-rly hiiilici- iImvcjui than anything obtainable coniiiuTciall.v. Tlu' riiisnn ,if this |iiiil>iil)ly is tliat wiitii the hull is removed from th« ordinaiy ,mt tin' skin is also taken off, and lliat in .>r near the skin the best of the flavour is Im'aicd. Tliis is a suppiKiticui only, hut stcui? a |)lausible way of explaining the suiH'rior od Viiiiet> as tije {.iLcriy will stimulate the growing of this valuable cereal. Farmers in outlyiny districts arc strongly recommended to secure some of the seed ami to (;,■,,«• t.iis oiit both for family use and for feeding to young animals. There is probai)ly no cereal product which can lie produiMil entirels .in the farm without tlie aid of complicated machinery, which is inon- de^,irable or valuabh- than the ground, huUess oat. Xot only dues it make porridife of the finest i|uality, but it is also excellent when baked in the form of otiteakc ,>r coolies. BAKKKY. Extremely little barley is used in Canada as human food, mid there is no reason why the quantity should not be largely increased. Barley is sold almost .xelnsively as pot or pearl lu.rlcy, which gives the purdiaser the itiiier part only of (he barley kernel, the hull, skin and outer parts having bi'en worn off by imicbinery. Tlw pro- cess of preparation is lengthy and re(|uires a good deal of jKiwer, and hence the est of the pearl barley is rather high, cs|K'cially as the amount manufactured is small. Doubtless if it were prod' .'d on a larger scale it could !«• made somewhat more cheaply. It is rather surprising that in a country wiicre so much rice, certainly one of the naist tasteless of foods, is cati'ii, so little jiearl barley shoulil be consumed, as this can be emplo.ved for every purixisc for which rice is used and, in the opinion »( the writer at least, produces far more tasty dishes. I'ot or jH'arl barley can, of course, be ground in a hand mill, and will thus furnish good material for i«)rridge or other purimses, but this would Ik- neither a cheap nor a coarse food and could not be classed in tilt same gnmp with hulless barley, (iround barley under the name "Cream of Barley" has lately come into notice. This is vi>ry good, but k-ing a |)uritier naked barley, like the hulless oat, gives up its hull ii. tin' threshing inachim' and with very little difficulty can be prepared for grinding. It is not so easy to grind as the oat, but can be mamiged in almost any hand mill. To obtain fine meal the material mav have to be put .hrough the mill threi' times. Coarsely ground hulless barley iinikes excellent porridge. The skin is distinctly more conspicuous than that of oats, but it does not appear to be in the least degree irritating to the human system. The writer has repeateork (and molasses if desired) make a good supper dish. Almost any grain, finely gi .und, can be made into cookies or tea biscuits, though the addition of a certain proportion of wheat flour is almost essential. GRAINS COOKED WHOLE. Peas, beans and jHJt or pearl barley are very good when boiled whole and served with a meat course. Pearl barley is also excellent for puddings. Ilulless barley is less satisfactory. Oats, rye, etc., can also be cooked whole, but they should usually be ground before cooking. 14 No special directions are newled for the ordinary boiling of tluve grains. The following is a good recipe for baked beans (a famous New England dish) :— Boil the beans, with some salt, fat pork, until they begin to crack; then put them into a covered baking pan or crock and place some of the pork in the mass. -Most people prefer to add a little sugar or molasses at this stage. Bake at a n:o(lorate heat for two hours or more, taking care that the beans do not become too dry. SOUP. Any coarsely ground grain makes a useful article to add to soup. Peas and beans iire jieriiiips l>est adapted to this puriwse, esi:)eeially because, when they are of good ••ookjn^ 'luality, t'ney do not even neied to be ground but can be put whole into the .soup. Boiling for an hour or two causes them to disintegrate. Of course, other grains can also be use«l whole in the same way, but they are generally more satisfactory if added in coarsely jiround condition. PORHIIXJK. For this purpose the grain should be ground to a rather coarse meal, unless a very smooth porridge is preferred. The n;pal should be cooked for from one to two hours. A good plan is to boil it for a while the evening before it is wanted, then place the pot in a firelew cooker and fini^h the boiling in the morning. Ground hulless oats make perhaps the best porridge but hulless barley, Indian corn and other grains are iilso very good for this purpose. OAT TAKE. This is a si)eeial kind of flat cake made entirely from ground oats and quite unlike anything I'repared from any other kind of grain. As a rule, oat cake is made by adding salt, a little butter or other fnt. and some water to the fine meal. The dough is rolled out very thin before being put into the baking pan. When using most kinds of meal, it will be found necessary or advantageous to add a certain quantity of ordinary flour to the dough for cookies. The following formula givies good results with almost any kind of fine meal : — n cups of meal. J cup of white flour. i •' 1 egg. Add a little salt the sugar and fat butter and lard or other fat. sugar (brown, white or maple). unless the butter contains a gw)d deal. Max the beaten egg with Mix the flour and meal. Lastly mix all ingredients together. The dough is usually rather difficult to handle but can be rolled out and out into shapes on a board well covered with fine meal or flour. Bake from 10 to 30 minutes, according to the heat of the oven. Whole wheat cookies of good quality <'an lie made from the following reci|)e, with- out the use of any flour at all : — 2 cups of fine wheat meal. A cup butter and lard nii.xed. i| cup sugar. 1 egg. The dough should be stiff but it may perhaps require the cdu'ltion of a very small amount of water in some cases. 15 TEA UISCIITS. Good ten biscuits can be made fioin finely ground wheat, witli-ut the iiddition .,i nny flour but when fine meal made from other grains is used it is desinii.l.. to emplov about equal parts of this meal and of wheat flour. The foliowinK bix nit fonnula i- very satisfactory: — 1 cui) of fine meal. 1 cup of flour. '2 teiisiioonsful of baking i)owder. J cup of butter and lard mixed. Mix t.)gethei the i.ieal, flour and bakin<7 powder and a> Lastly KoH and cut on a (loured boiirri. add enough water to make a rather slack dough. Bake about 1(1 minutes in a very hot oven. If pure wheat tea biscuit.s are desired, two cups of fine wh.-at nu-al can U^ us.-d w-ithout any flour. The resulting biscuits are somewhat c.arse and not verv light, but ot good flavour and <|Uite palatable. BRR.\n. Almost any kind of fine meal can be added to broad to the extent of about one- Muarter of the weight of the flour, without much danger of making the bread too hc-.w k IS the ..pinion of tiie writer, however, that better satisfaction will usually be ..l.taiiied by retaining on our tables the white bread of which most people arc f.md, and using other grains in the form of porridge or boiled whole or put into soups, cookies „r tc-i biscuits. A more pleasant, varied and wholesome diet will thus be obtained than by attempting to include coarse foods among the ingredients of bread MILLS FOR THE GRTXDINCJ OF VARIOUS ORAIXS. Most farmers who are well established have some kind of power mil' which can b, used for the grinding, either coarse or fine, of the different grains discussed in this publication. For ordinary householders or for farmers who have not any larsre inachiiic some form of hand mill is necessary. The writer does not know of any su.-b mill niadj m Canada. The best one he is ac.juainted with is specially manufacturcre effort. For the pi.,- duction of coarse meal, such as would generally be preferred for porridge, one ..peration IS usually sutiicient; but for the finest meal such as is desiral.le if cooki.-s „r tea bis- cuits are to bo made, it will probably be necessary to put the material through the mill three times.