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" Non ego sum vates, sed prisci conscius sevl." LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. ^ttWia^er in ©rtinate to l^cr iWajcBtij. 1846. [Price Half-a-Crown.] T 1 LONDON: Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street. » INTRODUCTION. In the autumn of 1839, being then an officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, I made the descent of the Columbia, or Oregon River, from a northern defile of the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific. 1 spent some months of the year 1 840 in the Oregon country, and made visits during the same year to the Sandwich Islands, and to Montery, the capital town, and San Francisco, the best harbour of California. Circumstances placed me, in the year 1842, in the position of political agent for Great Britain at the Sandwich Islands. I had, early, become convinced of the vital importance to British interests in the Pacific, of the sovereignty of that interesting group, and of its intrinsic value for the purpose of coloni- zation. I felt confident of the right of England to this sovereignty : a right grounded on priority ri • • ^4 /, fs INTRODUCTION. of discovery, and repeated cession by the native chiefs. Its virtual subjection to American rulers was self-evident ; and the danger of its being seized upon by the naval squadrons of France imminent. Thus influenced, I, unhesitatingly, took a prominent part in the bloodless coup de main by which the sovereignty of the group was, in February 1843, placed at the command of Her Britannic Majesty.* Immediately after its consummation, I took my departure for Britain,! charged with the self- imposed mission of personally representing to the Members of Her Majesty's Government, the importance of the acquisition thus made to Her Majesty's dominions. Unknown, unfriended, utterly unacquainted * Of the circumstances connected with this affair, I have given a full detail in a pamphlet, " The Sandwich Islands," published by Smith and Elder, in October 1843. t My first progress was in a very small schooner, com- manded by a very young midshipman of the Carysfort frigate, to Mazattan on the west coast of Mexico. I traversed the Republic to Vera Cruz. There I was much disposed to have taken passage vid the United States, but luckily found a Spanish coaster which landed me at Cuba. I say luckily, because the intense feeling excited in the States, by the receipt of intelligence of the measure in which I had been concerned, would have ensured me at least much insult, per- chance in the Southern districts drawn upon me the tender mercies of Judge Lynch. INTRODUCTION. with politics and with politicians, my represen- tations, though received with every courtesy, I may say kindness, by Lord Aberdeen and his colleagues in the Cabinet, were without effect. A recognition of the Sandwich Islands as an independent kingdom (!) was the decision arrived at. " That decision was taken," to use the words of the organ of the Foreign Office, " not from any want either of right {of sovereignty) or power to defend that right ; but simply because it was held to be inexpedient to found a colonial establishment, and to awaken the jealousy of other countries for no purpose that cannot be equally secured by the maintenance of the inde- pendence of the country." I considered then — still stronger reasons have I for considering now — that this was a most "untoward" decision. It was, as we have seen, formed avow^edly on the ground oi expediency ; and was, I have the strongest reasons to believe, the result of interference in the matter by the Govern- ment of the United States. There the value to Great Britain of this acquisition of territory was at once appreciated. A naval station in the Pacific which should completely command the northern part of that ocean, including the western route to China, and the shores of the coveted r 6 INTRODUCTION. ,1 ** Oregon" could not, quietly, be permitted to come into the possession of ** grasping England." The usual machinery of American diplomacy — lengthy Presidential Messages to Congress, excited discussions thereon, bellicose commu- nications from the American Ambassador to Downing Street — was brought into operation to defeat my project — and with entire success. Freed from the restraints of an official position, I published my views in relation to affairs in the Pacific. That these bore much reference to the Oregon (then, indeed, but a very " small cloud in the West") will be rendered apparent by the followinp: fcY. and Vancouver's voyage* was equally unknown d unthought of. In 1824, Russia seems to have determined to obtain a clear definition and acknowledgment of her American territory ; for she concluded in April of that year a Convention with the United States, and in February following, one with England, defining the Boundary of that territory. Both Conventions are essentially to the same purport. A line drawn from the Arctic Ocean (which, by the w^ay, had not then been explored) along the parallel of 141° W., was declared the limit in the interior. This continued would have struck the Pacific Coast in latitude 60° N. : but a special reservation was made that the Russian territory on the coast should comprehend Prince of Wales' Archipelago, extending to latitude .54° 40' ; and that from latitude 56° northward, Russia should have possession of a tract along the coast of ten marine leagues in breadth. I think a fair inference might be drawn i THE OREGON QUESTION. 43 from the United States accepting such an absurd Boundary Line as the above, (England's conces- si ^n on such a point is not matter to surprise) that her diplomatists knew well they were con- senting to a partition of what they had no real claim to. Russian America is valuable for its fur- trade ; this is carried on by an imperial Com- pany, of which the Emperor is governor, and a principal capitalist. I have already stated that America's present right of joint trade and settlement with England, extends from latitude 42° to latitude 56° N. That England holds, as regards America, the same rights to the same region : while, as I assert, she holds, as regards Mexico, the same claim to the region lying between latitude 42° and San Francisco (38°). The more moderate politicians of the United States now maintain that the Boundary Line between the two nations eastward of the Rocky Mountains, should be extended to the Pacific along the same parallel of latitude, i. e., 49° N; It was long in discussion between the two governments under what conditions the Columbia River should form the line of demajxation ; and, 44 THB OREGON QUESTION. m I J. : I believe, the proposals of America as late as 1842, adhered to this mode of settlement. In describing the country it will be desirable to consider it in the divisions which these diffe- rent claims and propositions mark out. There are : — 1st. The country between 56" and 49' N., which were the most moderate of the American propositions given effect to, would fall to the share of Great Britain. 2nd. The country between 49° and the Co- lumbia River, which, (yvith. a slight reservation to be adverted to) might some years ago have been secured for England. 3rd. The country between the Columbia River and 42°, the Spanish (now Mexican) boun- dary acknowledged by the United States in 1819. And : — 4th. The country between 42° and San Fran- cisco (38°) in which, under the Nootka Treaty* England possesses the joint right of settlement. The first of the above divisions has a coast hne of about five hundred miles ; its breadth is about three hundred and fifty miles. It thus fdrms a territory of one hundred and seventy- five thousand squares miles, exclusive of the ad- jacent island — Queen Charlotte's — which has an area of upwards of five thousand square miles. THE OREGON QUESTION. 45 This extensive territory is, at present, occu- pied solely by Indians, and by a few officers and servants of the Hudson's Bay Company engaged in the fur trade. This trade is con- ducted at two positions on the coast, and six in the interior country ; the coast trading- houses being supplied by a coasting vessel from Vancouver, while the wants of the establish- ments in the upper country are supplied by land transport from the northern waters of the Colum- bia. The Indians of the coast are numerous, fierce, and treacherous. Their natural intel- ligence is considerable; and, occupying a country in which deer and fish are abundant, they are but little dependant on the traders. In the interior country, the natives are much inferior in character and position. This extensive tract is quite unfit for agri- cultural settlements. It is sterile and rocky ; and its climate, though not cold as that of the eastern side of America under the same lati- tudes, is more than equally objectionable from continual rains during six months of the year, and dense fogs during the other six months. Doubtless as an adjunct to a State peopled by an energetic race, the value of this tract would be great. The fur trade is even now trifling, in a little while it will be exhausted ; but 46 THE OREGON QUESTION. IP) :■•'.■! the numerous inlets and harbours everywhere to be found on this bold coast, would give shelter to hardy fishermen, whose labours would be abundantly recompensed in prosecuting the whale-fishery of the ocean, the white-fisheries of the coast, and the salmon-fisheries of the rivers, — for all of which advantages are here offered, such, as I believe, were never elsewhere found singly, still less united. The shores are covered with forests of pines of peculiar value for ship-building ; and numerous indications have been observed of the existence of strata of coals, and mines of iron. The second division of territory has a coast line Oi two hundred miles, and its breadth (to the northern branch of the Columbia, which here runs parallel to the coast) is about the same, thus forming an area of forty thousand square miles. This district is also, at present, valuable to civilized man only for the few furs traded with its Aborigines. The agricultural settle- ment at Fort Vancouver supplies merely the wants of those engaged in the fur trade, and another attempted on the Cowlitz River, near the straits of Juan de Fuca, has failed of success. The country is not so rugged as that which I before described ; the climate is also better ; THE OREGON QUESTION. 47 and the soil, though not naturally fertile, is capable of successful cultivation. * But where are the cultivators to come from?* — Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Canada, New Zealand, surely one and all present greater advantages to British emigrants ; and the sea-voyage to the most distant of these is two months shorter than that to the Columbia River. To this division the extensive island known as * Vancouver's,' may be considered to belong. This island has an area of nearly twelve thousand square miles, and it possesses far greater advan- tages, in soil and natural configuration for set- tlement, than the adjacent parts of the continent. It is stated, I know not with what truth, that the sect of fanatics called Mormons, who muster several thousands in numbers, tired of the per- secutions to which they have been exposed in the Western States of the Union — project a migration in 1846 to this island. The step would be a bold, but a prudent one. They would, there, have little cause to fear any in- terference with their peculiar social organization. The diplomatists of the United States would, I have learnt from good American authority, until the present excitement arose, have sur- rendered both the above regions to England, with the reservation of the tract bounded by the Columbia River on the south, the Straits 48 THE OREGON QUESTION. of Fuca on the north, the Pacific on the west, and the Cowlitz River on the east. This reser- vation would have given to their country the command of the Columbia River for fifty miles from its mouth. If English honour can be saved, if we can make such terms as will satisfy ourselves and the world, that we have not truckled to America in this matter, let us, by all means, make a lease to the possessors of the southern bank of the Columbia of the northern regions at a pepper- corn rent ; or, better still, a grant thereof, free and unbought. To P'-'aain they will never be of value, while they will continually expose her to difficulties. In describing the third section of country, the most prominent subject is the River Columbia, which forms its principal outlet to the ocean. This river has a course of about one thousand miles (I descended its stream eight hundred and fifty miles) and, though it cannot, in length, in volume, or, in facilities of navigation, compete with the great rivers flowing through the conti- nent into the Atlantic, it is still a mighty stream , having a breadth of two miles at fifty miles fronj its mouth. Its navigation has acquired a bad character, in consequence of there being a diffi- cult and dangerous bar at its mouth, on which several wrecks — the last of an American vessel of THE OREGON QUESTION. 49 war — have taken place. Vessels of large draught of water have, certainly, much difficulty in enter- ing, and Btill greater in getting out to sea, for the passage is intricate and tortuous ; but the land- marks of the embouchure are bold, and easily re- cognized, and a steam tug would obviate all risk and difficulty. The bar once passed, there is good navigation for vessels of four hundred tons up to Fort Vancouver. Above this the navigation becomes broken by descents of the river over ledges of rocks; but these are not frequent, and, though dangerous to a frail boat, the only craft now used, they would but little im- pede a steamer of good power and light draught of water, such as surmount the rapids of the St. Lawrence. With such, I have no hesitation in saying, that at certain seasons the Columbia might be navigated from the ocean to the spurs of the Rocky Mountains. The valley of the Columbia for one hundred and fifty miles from the sea, is to a distance of twenty miles covered by a dense forest of trees of gigantic growth, quite beyond the efforts of puny man to clear away. Open plains do occur, but they are few and far between, and not adapted for settlement, in consequence of the want of water in summer. The cUmate is but £ 50 THE OREGON QUESTION. indifferent. 1 t rainy season extends from No- vember to March, and the quantity of rain poured down upon the earth during that period is very great. Frost and snow are unfrequent. The summer is dry, and the heat intense and long continued, the thermometer for four months frequently attaining 100° in the shade. Great inundations from the river take place in early summer, and the rapid exhalation of these and the wintry rains under a burning sun, make fever and ague of a most severe, frequently dangerous, type very prevalent. The country higher up the river is much in contrast to this. More distant from the wide Pacific, rains are here unfrequent ; the woods give place to plains of immense extent, and health and vigour are enjoyed by the residents, instead of the langour and depression felt by those in the lower valley. Climate would thus make it a desirable country for settlement ; but its soil is indifferent in the extreme : indeed, it is one wide expanse of shivered but yet unde- composed''*' rock, over which a scanty grass is all that grows. The Presbyterian Missionaries found it most difficult to diL-cover spots on * The marks of comparatively recent volcanic formation are apparent over all this region. ▼ THE OREGON QUESTION. 51 which there was soil enough to raise the vege- tables they required for their families. Such is the character of the wide region, covering upwards of two hundred and fifty thou- sand square miles, between the northern branch of the Columbia River and the Mexican boun- dary (a narrow slip in the vicinity of the coast excepted). It is tenanted by many, but not numerous tribes of Indians, all pacific in their character, some of whom possess large bands of horses which roam at large among the scanty pastures. This region, notwithstanding the dis- advantages which I have described, will even- tually become of immense value to the adjacent agricultural district. Its adaptation for sheep raising, is in every respect greater than that of our Australian possessions. Who would attempt to estimate the flocks that in a quarter of a cen- tury hence will be fed in its inimitable pastures ? The agricultural district I refer to in the last paragraph is the valley of the Wallamatte, which I have already stated to be in process of occupa- tion and settlement. For nearly twenty miles before joining the Co- lumbia, the Wallamatte flows through a region of dreary forest ; and, before the traveller emerges into the beautiful and fertile plains bordering E 2 52 THE OREGON QUESTION. I'' :i * il its upper waters, he has to pass a point where the stream makes a fall over a ledge of rocks of upwards of twenty feet in height.* The country above this barrier assumes a new and interesting character. The soil is a rich diluvial mould, the land is unencumbered with forest, but agreeably variegated by scattered clumps of oak and other useful woods. The country undulates pleasingly ; and at the distance of a few miles from the river there are ranges of green hills, behind which plains again appear. The river has a swift but not impetuous descent, and is, during several months, navigable for fifty miles above the Falls. The climate improves as we recede from the Columbia : the rains are less continuous, and the summer's heat less oppres- sive. I do not estimate the valley of the Walla- matte at less than two thousand square miles, almost all adapted for cultivation. To the south of it lies a country even finer— the valley of the Umqua — a river flowing direct into the Pacific in latitude 43°. * Mr. M'Loughlin, the principal British authority in the disputed territory, has already obtained from the self-consti- tuted Legislature ot the Oregon, a grant, for a series of years, of tollage on craft at a small canal which he purposes to make past this obstruction. THE OREGON QUESTION. 53 In fact, the whole region adjacent to (that is within one hundred and fifty miles ot) the Pacific coast, southward from the mouth of the Co- lumbia to the Mexican boundary, presents great advantages for colonization. The Wallamatte River yields an entry into this fertile region from the Columbia, while the Umqua and Clamet Rivers flowing direct to the Pacific, give more direct means of communication, although their entrances are also encumbered with troublesome barriers. This is a true but meagre sketch of the " Oregon," that El Dorado to reach which the citizens of the United States have, in surprising numbers, for the last two years, braved a long and toilsome journey across the continent. And who will say that their toils will not be repaid ? That such a country, occupied by such a people, is destined to become nothing else than an appendage to the Atlantic States I am unwill- ing to believe. Free and independent, it would have a high destiny before it : and I recall with pleasure a very sagacious remark made to me on this subject by Lord Palmerston. I had repre- sented to his Lordship (as I had previously done to Lord Aberdeen at the Foreign Office) the advantages of this region, had stated the rapid emigration of American citizens to it and ex- 1 54 THE OREGON QUESTION. pressed my apprehension of the undue influence in the Pacific, which its admission into the Union would give to the United States. He replied: — ** There is no danger of that ; it will become a second Texas." {Texas had not then been annexed,) It requires no prophet to foretel that the nor- thern part of California, (which I have classed as the fourth division of undefined territory) if not the whole of that Province, will fall into the same hands as the Wallamatte and the Umqua. Indeed, there are good reasons for anticipating that, without any extraneous assistance, the American residents in that Province will soon have the power, as they already have the incli- nation, to cast off the sway of the feeble and inert Mexicans. In fact, Mexican supremacy here is more in name than in reality. The few military supported, the civil and revenue officers, are all native Californians : to the general re- venues of the Republic the province makes no remittances, and from them receives no supplies ; and it has not, for several years, even taken the trouble to send members to the Mexican con- gress. In fact, the native Californians hate the Mexicans : and the system of government, weak and inefficient as it is, has been supported so long solely by the personal energies of a f^'v officials, who, under covert of administering THE OREGON QUESTION. 55 Mexican laws, (particularly those of revenue) minister much to their own interests. In fact, Mexico might justly boast, if she so Usted, of having (what England has not yet been able to organize) a strictly self-supporting colony. Having had considerable intercourse with the civil and military authorities of this province, I can speak with confidence of their shameless venality, and of the oppressive system which they administer. The revenue laws are nomi- nally all but prohibitive of the importation of any other than Mexican manufactures ; subjects of other States are liable to expulsion unless they take the oath of Mexican citizenship ; the mar- riage of such with the fascinating daughters of the country, is still prohibited, unless in addition, they abjure protestantism and submit to baptism at the hands ol a catholic priest, the rites of the Protestant Church are prohibited — (an almost unnecessary prohibition, for I never could discover any religion at all among the Anglo-Saxons there). The people who are of a mixed Spanish-Indian race, are superstitious, ignorant, and priest-rid- den ; yet their leaders, under covert of Mexican law, have confiscated and seized for themselves, the numerous — and because well-cultivated, valuable — missionary stations, which pious and 56 THE OREGON QUESTION. energetic priests from old Spain liad establislied, and for more than half a century maintained, for the civilization, protection, and employment of the aboriginal Indians. Well, indeed, may it be said of this beautiful country that " here only man is vile." The harbour of San Francisco is unrivalled in the world. A bay of many leagues in cir- cumference, abounding in safe anchorages, is entered from the ocean by a deep strait of less than three miles in breadth. Into this bay several rivers, the Sacramento — (having a course of about four hundred miles) the Buena Ventura, and the St. Joaquin, the principal ones — empty themselves, and afford communication with a wide expanse of interior country of the most fertile description. The climate cannot be surpassed ; it equals that of the finest parts of Europe. Rains are unfrequent ; there is so little cold in winter that no fire-places are to be seen ; and the heat in summer is much more tempered than in the region of the Columbia. The whole tract north of San Francisco is all but uninhabited. A farming establishment belonging to General Vallejo, the military com- mandant of the district, in the interior country, and another occupied (but since abandoned) by the Russian Fur Company at Bodega on THE OREGON QUESTION. 57 the coast, were, when I was there, the sole places inhabited. An enterprizing Swiss gen- tleman has since established himself — more in defiance than by consent of the Government — on the banks of the Sacramento, and following the same method as Vallejo, i. e. employing in agriculture the demi-civiUzed Indians cast adrift by the breaking up of their training schools, the missions — he has, as I learn from a recent visitor, made most rapid progress. Several of his countrymen have started for the purpose of joining him. Did I speak of the amazing crops of every European grain and vegetable grown at these singular establishments, I should, perchance, be considered as romancing. California requires no illusive descriptions, but plain naked truth to recommend its value and importance. F 58 THE OREGON QUESTION. m 1: POSTSCRIPT. The foregoing pages were in the press before the arrival, in this country, of President Polk's Message to the Congress of the United States. That message has been very generally viewed by the English Press as more conciliatory than the inaugural declaration of the same autho- rity. Without being an alarmist, I must con- fess that I regard it in a very different light. I consider its tendency to be of more immi- nently dangerous character than was that of the previous communication. The points of Mr. Polk's address may be summed up thus : 1st. — "His own reiterated opinion of the irrefragable claim of the United States to the whole of the Oregon territory. 2nd. — " A declaration that he, unwillingly, and in deference only to the purposes of his predecessors in office, sanctioned a negociation THE OREGON QUESTION. 59 having in view a compromise, that is — a parti- tion of the country. 3rd. — " An opinion that the progress of the negociation * affords satisfactory evidence that no compromise which the United States ought to accept can be effected.' 4th. — " All propositions heretofore made by the United States for a compromise have been withdrawn. 5th. — " A recommendation to Congress to authorize the Executive to give notice of the termination, at the end of a year, of joint occupancy. 6th.— "This done 'the United States shall have reached a period when the national rights in Oic^ m {i. e. the possession of the whole) must be either abandoned or firmly main- tained.'" I must confess, I can see nothing pacific in the character of such a communication : and its tone, though not overtly belligerent, is ex- pressive of unfaltering decision. The support by Congress of President Polk's course of policy would, of course, occasion a declaration of war on the part of Great Britain ; and the sole hope for the preservation of peace must rest on the rejection of the President's recommendations by the Congress. F 2 60 THE OREOON QUESTION. Cau we hope for such a rejection ? — I think not. The election of Mr. Davis, a thorough- going Polk politician, to the chair of the House of Representatives is a sign of the influence of the party there; and he must be little ac- quainted with the American character, who is not sensible of the deep effect which several declarations in the Message will produce. If ** a cry'* is good in an English election contest, ten-fold is its efficacy in the Western Republic ; and Mr. Polk has suggested some very stirring ones : — " The Oregon — one and undivided," " Justice from Mexico," {i. e. a good slice out of her territory,) '* No European interference or colonization," ** No Old World balance of power," — all these will be powerful arguments with the governing body — i, e, the people ; and will infallibly raise an excitement for Poi*.'s policy, such as Webster, Clay, and Calhoun can, if they willed, do little to temper or subdue. THE END. '^ . L U M) U N : FriuteU by 6cbult« tind Co , i3, Poland btre«(.