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Les diagrammes suivants illustrert la mAthode. rrata :o pelure, id □ 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 472 THE SHIP COLUMBIA A AD As for Sfjuire Chapman, it a])pcareci uncertain whether he knew that Abner was gone. He appeared to consider his place just as emjjty before he went as it was afterwards. What he himself had set up, he alone could pull down. That axiom was unquestioned in his own mind. He took it for granted that the graven image, which he himself had set up and pulled down, was broken to pieces in the fall, and did not trouble himself as to what became of the fragments. ■ » » • » » THE SHIP COLUMBIA AND THE DISCOVERY OF OREGON. By Edwani G. Porter. I. The First V(jvaue. EW ships, if any, in our merchant marine, since the organization of the Republic, have acquired such distinc- tion as the Columbia, By two noteworthy achievements, a hun- dred years ago, she attracted the at- tention of the commercial world and rendered a service to the United States unparalleled in our history. She was the first American vessel to carry the stars and stripes around the globe ; and, by her discovery of " the great river of the West,'' to which her name was given, she furnished us with the title to our posses- sion of that magnificent domain, which to-day is represented by the flourishing young states of Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. The famous ship was well known and much talked about at th'^ time, but her records have mostly disappeared, and there is very little knowledge at present concerning her. The committee for the centennial ol)- servance, at Astoria, of the Columhia's exploit having applied to the writer for information upon the subject, in which they are naturally so much interested, he gladly responds by giving an outline of the facts, gathered mainly from i)rivate sources, and illustrated by original draw- ings made at the time on board the ship, and hitherto not known to the public. The publication, in 1784, of Captain Cook's journal of his third voyage awak- ened a widespread interest in the possi- bility of an important trade on the north- west coast. In Boston there were a few gentlemen who took up the matter seri- ously, and determined to embark in the enterprise on their own account. The leading spirit among them was Joseph Barrell, a merchant of distinction, whose financial ability, cultivated tastes, and wide acquaintance with afl^airs gave him a position of acknowledged influence in business and social circles. Associated with him in close compan- ionship was Charles Bulfinch, a recent graduate of Harvard, who had just re- turned from pursuing special tudies in Europe. His father, Dr. Thomas Bul- finch, lived on Bowdoin Square, and often entertained at his house the friends who were inclined to favor the new pro- ject. They read together Cook's report of an abundant supply of valuable furs offered by the natives in exchange for beads, knives, and other trifles. These sea-otter skins, he said, were sold by the Russians to the Chinese at from ^,"16 to ^20 each. " Here is a rich harvest," said Mr. Barrell, " to be reaped by those who go in first." Accordingly, in the year 1787, they made all the necessary arrangements for fitting out an expedition. The other partners were Samuel Ikown, a prosper- ous merchant ; John Derby, a shipmaster THE DISCOVF.RV OF OREGON. 473 mind. graven I up and in the as to OF of Salem ; Captain Crowell Hatch, a resi- dent of Cambridge ; and John Marden I'intard, of the well-known New York house of Lewis Pintard & Co. These six gentlemen subscribed over $50,000, dividing the stock into fourteen '■k shares, and purchased the ship Coluinbia ; or, as it was afte: this often called, the Coliimhia Reoiviva. She was built in 1773 by James IJriggs at Hobart's Land- I ing, on the once busy little stream known as North River, the natural boundary between Scituate and Marshfield. One who sees it to-day peacefully meandering through quiet meadows and around fer- tile slopes would hardly believe that over a thousand sea-going vessels have been built upon its banks. The Columbia was a full-rigged ship, 83 feet long, and measured 2 1 2 tons. She had two decks, a figure-head, and a square stern, and was mounted with ten gims. A consort was provided for her in the Washington — or Lady Washington as she was afterward called — a sloop of 90 tons, designed especially to collect furs by cruising among the islands and inlets of the coast in the expected trade with the Indians. These vessels seem ridicu- lously small to us of the present day, but they were stanchly built and manned by skilful navigators. As master of the Columbia, the owners selected Captain John Kendrick, an ex- perienced officer of about forty-five years of age, who had done considerable priva- teering in the Revolution, and had since been in charge of several vessels in the merchant service. His home was at Wareham, where he had built a substan- tial house and reared a family of six children. The venerable homestead may still be seen, shaded by trees which the captain planted. For the command of the sloop, a man was chosen who had been already in the service of two of the owners, Messrs. Brown and Hatch, as mas- ter of their ship Pacific in the South Carolina trade. This was Captain Robert Cray, an able seaman, who had also been an officer in the Revolutionary navy, and who was a personal friend of Captain Kendrick. Cray was a native of Tivei- ton, R. L, and a descendant of ore of the early settlers at Plymouth. Alter his marriage, in 1 794, his home was in Boston, on Salem Street, where he had a family of five children. His great grandson, Mr. Clifford Cray Twombly, of Newton, has inherited one of the silver cups in- scribed with the initials *' R. C." which the captain carried with him around the world. His sea-chest is also in good condition, and is now presented by his granddaughter. Miss Mary E. Bancroft, of Boston, to the Oregon Pioneer and His- torical Society for preservation among its relics. Sea Letters were issued by the federal and state governments for the use of the expedition, and a medal was struck to commemorate its departure. Hu dreds of these medals — in bronze and pewter — were put on board for distribution among the people whom the voyagers might meet, together with a much larger num- ber of the new cents and half-cents which the State of Massachusetts had coined that year. Several of these medals and coins have since been found on the track of the vessels, among Indians, Spaniards, and Hawaiians. A few in silver and bronze are preserved in the families of some of the owners. Neither pains nor expense were spared to give these vessels a complete outfit. The cargo consisted chiefly of the neces- 4^a/ 'MC./M^ sary stores and a good supply of hard- ware — useful tools and utensils — to be exchanged for furs on the coast. There were also numerous trinkets to please the fancy of the natives, such as buttons, toys, beads, and necklaces, jew's-harps, 474 THE SHIP COLUMBIA AND combs, earrings, looking-glasses, snuff, and snuff-boxes. The writer has full lists of the officers and crew. Kendrick's first mate was Simeon ^Voodruff, who had been one of (.look's officer., in his last voyage to the Pacific. The second mate was Josejjh Ingraham, who was destined, later on, to compensation in trade. The skins, when collected, were to be taken to Canton and exchanged for teas, which were to form the bulk of the cargo back to Hoston. They had a good run to the Ca]ie Verde Islands, where they remained nearly two months for some unexplained cause. The delay occasioned much discontent be a conspicuous figure m the trade among the officers, and Woodruff and Hobart's Landing, North River, Scituate, where the "Columbia" was built. which he helped to inaugurate. The third officer was Robert Haswell, the son of a lieutenant in the British Navy who for some years had lived at Nantasket (now Hull). Haswell was an accomplished young officer and kept a careful record of the expedition, from which much of our most accurate information is derived. He was also a clever artist and made some of the sketches of the vessels which are here reproduced for the first time. Next to him was John 15. Cordis of Charles- town. Richard S. Howe was the clerk ; ])r. Roberts, the surgeon ; and J. Nutting, the astronomer — or schoolmaster as he was sometimes called. Mr. Treat ship- ped as furrier, and Davis Coolidge as first mate on the slooj). On the 30th of September, 1787, the two vessels started on their long voyage. i\lany friends accompanied them down the harbor and bade thtm farewell. The owners had given each com- mander minute instructions as to the route and the manner of conducting their business. They were to avoid the Span- iards, if ])ossible, and always treat the In- dians with respect, giving them a fiiir Roberts left the ship. At the P'alkland Islands there was no wood to be had, but l)lenty of geese and ducks, snipe antl plover. They lingered here too long, and Kendrick was inclined to wait for another season before attempting the pas- sage around Cape Horn, but he was in- duced to proceed, and on the 28th of February, 1788, they resumed their voy- age, Haswell having been transferred to the sloop as second mate. They soon ran into heavy seas, and for nearly a month they encountered severe westerly gales, during which the Co/iim/na was thrown upon her beam ends, and the little J I 'iis/i/fi!;^/(>f/ was so com])letely swept by the waves that all the beds and cloth- ing on board were coni])letely drenched, with no opportunity to dry them. Early on the morning of April i, the vessels lost sight of each other in latitude 57° 57' south and longitude 92° 40' west. It was intensely cold, and a hur- ricane wi^s raging. The crews were utterly exhausted, and hardly a man was able to go aloft. At last on the 14th, the skies brightened, and tney had their first welcome to the Pacific : but they could no longer see any- THE DISCOVERY OF OREGON. 475 |kins, when .anton and re to form |5oston. the Cape lined nearly Ined cause. I discontent )druff and ? Falkland >e hod, but snipe and too long, o wait for »g the pas- le was in- e 28th of their voy- sferred to rhey soon nearly a e westerly inbia was , and the tely swept :ind cloth- drenched, 1. Til I, the n latitude 92° 40' nd a hur- ;\vs were man was ightened, le to the see any- thing of each other, and so each vessel ])roceedef' independently the rest of the way. The sloop lay to off the island of Masafuero, but the surf was so heavy that they could not land. At Ambrose Island '/pn^^ayy^4^ they sent a boat ashore, and found plenty of fish and seals, but no fresh water, so they were obliged to put themselves on a short allowance. Almost every day they saw dolphins, whales, sea-lions, and grampuses. In June, they caught the northeast trade-wind, and on the second of August, to their inexpressible joy, they saw the coast of New .Albion in latitude 41^, near Cape Mendocino. \ canoe came off with ten natives, making signs of friendship. They were mostly clad in deerskins. Captain Cray gave them some presents. .\nd now for a time our mariners en- joyed a little, well-earned rest, and feasted their eyes upon the green hills and forests as they cruised leisurely along the coast. The large Indian population was revealed by the camp-fires at night, and by the columns of smoke by day. Many of them came paddling after the slooi), waving skins and showing the greatest eagerness to get aboard. Others were evidently frightened and fled to the woods. In latitude 44° 20', they found a harbor which they took to ])e " the entrance of a very large river, where great commercial advantages r.iight be reaped." This was ])robably the Alseya River in Oregon, which is not as large as they thought. The natives here were warlike, and shook long si)ears at them, with hideous shouts and an air of defiance. Near Cape Lookout, they " made a toler- ably commodious harbor," and, anchored half a mile off. Canoes brought out to them delicious berries and crabs, ready- bo'led, which the poor seamen gladly bought for buttons, as they were already suffering from scurvy. The next day, seven of these men were sent ashore in the boat with Coolidge and Haswell to get some grass and shrubs for their sto( k. The captain's boy, Mar- cos, a black fellow who had shijiped at St. lago, accompanied thi.-ni ; and, while he was carrying grass down to the boat, a native seized his cutlass which he had carelessly stuck in the sand, and ran off with it toward the village Marcos gave chase, shouting at the top of his voice. The officers at once saw the ])eril, and hastened to his assistance ; but it was too late. Marcos had the thief by the neck ; but the savages crowded around, and soon drenched their knives in the blood of the unfortunate youth. He relaxed his hold, stumbled, rose again, and stag- gered toward his friends, but received a flight of arrows in his back, and fell in mortal agony. The officers were i.ow assailei' on all sides, and made for the boat as fiist as possible, shooting the most daring of the ringleaders with their j)istols, and ordering the men in the boat to fire and cover their retreat. One of the sailors who stood near l)y to help them was totally disabled by a barbed arraw, Captain Gray's Cup. which caused great loss of blood. 'I'hey managed, however, to get into the boat and i)ush off, followed by a swarm of canoes. A brisk fire was kept up till they neared the sloop, which discharged several swivel shot, and soon scattered i 47»; THE S/IJP COLUMBIA AND the enemy. It was ;i narrow escape. Captain (iray had but three men left aboard, anil, if the natives had captur, J the boat's crew, as they came so near doing, they could easily have made a prize of the sloop. Murderers' Harbor was the approjjriate name given to the place. Haswell thought it must be " the entrance of the river of the West," though it was by no means, he said, " a safe i)lace for any but a very small vessel to enter." This was probably near Tillamook Hay. Some of the mai)s of that time had vague suggestions of a supposed great river, whose mouth they placetl almost anywhere between the Straits of Fuca and Califor- nia. When dray was actually near the river which he afterward discovered, he had so good a breeze that he " passed a considerable length of coast " without standing in — otherwise the centennial of Oregon might have been celebrated in 1888 instead of 1892. How slight a cause may affect the whole history of a nation ! Farther north, they saw " exceeding high mountains, covered with snow " sheltered anchorage, which they named Hancock's Harbor, for the governor under whose patronage they had sailed. This was in ( layocpiot Sound, where, on their next voyage, they spent a winter. .At last, on the i6th of .August, 178S. the sloo]) reached its destineil haven in Nootka Sound. Two l^nglish snows from Macao, under Portuguese colors, were lying there — the Ju/iic and the J/>/ii- ,i(t'/i/rnadez seven- teen days, the Coluinhia continued her voyage without further incident to Nootka. Cai)tain Kendrick now resumed the command of the expedition. In a few days occurred the anniversary of their departure from Boston, and they all ob- served it heartily. The officers of all the vessels were invited to dine on board the Columbia, and the evening was spent in festive cheer — a welcome change to those homesick exiles on that dreary shore. It was decided to spend the winter in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, and a house was built large enough for the en- tire crew. 'I'hey shot an abundance of J^^^C/- Q^^t^^A^ A'9'i^ game, prepared charcoal for their smiths, and worked their iron into chisels which were in good demand among the natives. To their surprise one morning they found that the Indians had landed and carried off fifteen water-casks, and 'iwK' small can- non which Captain Douglas had given them. This was a heavy loss, ami as the i miscreants could not be found, the coopers had to go to work and make a new set of casks. In March, 1789, the ll'as/tiiii:;fon was painted and sent on a short cruise, while the Coluwhiix was removed a few miles up the Sound to a ])lace which they named Kendrick's Cove, where a house was built with a forge and battery. In May the sloop started out again for furs and met the Spanish corvette Piiucesa, whose commander, Martinez, showed great kindness to tiray, giving him sup- l)lies of brandy, wine, hams, and sugar ; 478 THE SJIIP COLUMBIA A.\D FKOM AN OKiaiNAL MINIATURE. but he said he should make a prize of Douglas, if he found him. At one plate a largt.' Ileet of canoes came off in great ])arade and offered their sea -otter skins for one chisel each. Our men readily bought the lot — two h u n d r e d in number — worth from six to eight thousand dollars ! This was the best bargain they ever made, as they could seldom get a good skin for less than six or ten chisels. An average price was one skin for a blanket ; four for a pistol ; and six for a musket. (Iray then stood south- ward and went into Hope Hay, and later into a place called by the natives C ' ' '3set, where t' vas every ap- peal ;. ice of a good harbor. He then visited the islands " of the north and gave names to Cape Ingraham, I'intard Sound, Hatch's Island, Derby Sound, Bar- ren's Inlet, and Washington's Islands (now known as Queen Charlotte's) whose mountain tops were covered with snow, even in summer. It is a pity that most of the names given by our explorers in that region have been changed, so that it is not easy to identify all the places mentioned by them. Returning to Nootka they found the Spaniards claiming sovereignty over all that region, detaining the English vessels and sending the Argonaut with her offi- cers and crew as prisoners, to San Bias. The schooner Northwest America, which Meares had built, was seized and sent on a cruise under the command of Coolidge, and her crew and stores were put on the Columbia to be taken to China. Serious complications between England and Spain grew out of these high-handed proceed- /^^^ ings, resulting in the " Nootka Conven- tion," as it was called — the famous treaty of October, 1790, by which war was averted and a new basis of agret-ment established between the two powers. Another impor- tant change now took place. Captain Kendrick conclud- ed to put the ship's ])roperly on board the slooj), and go on a cruise in licr himself, with a crew of twenty men, while Cray should take the Columbia, reinforced by the crew of the prize- schooner, to the Sandwich Islands, and get provisions for the voyage to China, and there dispose of the skins. Ingraham ami Haswell decid- ed to go with (iray, while Cordis re- mained with Ken- drick. And so the two vessels parted company. The Columbia left Clayocjuot July 30, 1789, and spent three weeks at the Hawaiian Islands, laying in a store of fruits, yams, potatoes, and hogs. They were kindly received there, and a young chief, Attoo (sometimes called the crown- prince), was consigned to Captain Gray's care for the journey to Boston, under the promise that he should have an early opportunity to return. They had a good run to china and reached W'hampoa Roads on the i6th of November. Their agents at Canton were the newly-estab- lished Boston firm of Shaw & Randall, who also attended to consular duties. It was an unfavorable season for trade, and their thousand sea-otter skins had to be sold at a sacrifice. The ship was repaired at great expense and made ready for a cargo of teas. The following bill of lading should have a place here : 'i» % THE DISCOVERY OE OREdON. 479 a Conven- lous treaty war \v;is iKrc'Liiicnt powers, cr iinpor- mgc now e. Captain condiid- the ship's on hoard , and jro isc in lit-r kvith a crew nty men, ay shouhl Coluinhia, d hy the the prize- er, to the \ Islands, ])rovisions voyage to and there i of the Ingrahani well decid- with (Iray, ordis re- with Ken- And so the els parted Dt July 30, ks at the a store of igs. They d a young the crown- :ain Gray's under the an early lad a good Whampoa er. Their !wly-estab- : Randall, lar duties, for trade, skins had ! ship was md made ig should " Sliippi'il l>y the ( iraco nC (mkI, in j»ihii| uriliT and ciiiiiliiiiii), liV >lia\v ano di'liv- iTi'd unto Sanuu'l I'arUinan l''.si|uirc, or ti) liis assi^;ns and so ( iod siinl the ^md .Shi]) tw liiT desired I'orl in Safity — Amen. Dated in < anti)ii leli. 3, I 7^1 > (si^Mied ) l\<)|ii:i%i ( iK.W." Kendrii k rea( heion w.is formed, and (aptain (iray walkid arm in arm with the Ha- waiian ( hief — the first of his race ever seen in Pioston. He was a fine-looking yoiiUi and wore a helmet tif gay feathers, which glittered in the sunlight, and an ex(iuisiti' < loak of the same yidlow and scarlet pluinai:e. The governor enter tained the com])any with litting hospi talily, and many were the congr.itiil.ilions extended on all sides to the men who had planned and to those who had execu ted this memorable voyage. It must be said that, financially, the enterprise was not of miu h profit to the owners, two of whom sold out their in- terest to the others ; but, nevertiicless, it was an achievi'inent to be ])roud of, and FROM AN OLD PRAWING BY HA^WFIl. f The Ship "Columbia" ami thu Sloop "Washington," but a gale of wind prevented her seeing it j)rei)ared the way for a very large and her old consort. remunerative trade in sul)seivd;t;r Del VifXt' ,jfe-??? AFTER ONE OF DAVIF-SON'S OLD DRAWINGS In WinttT Quarters at Clayoquot CAITAIN (iKAV lilVINCi DKDEHS TO Mli. YF.NUELL CONCEHNING THE ULILDING OF THE SI.OOI' "ADVENTURE." ands. later news they found id gave him n that after Lt Macao, he into a brig, t he lost the ed at Lark's en he sailed 1 touched at to unfurl the He sought lered off, as might have been expected had he known the rigidly exclusive policy of the Japan of that time. Kendrick had called at Nootka where, he said, the Spaniards treated him kindly, and sent him daily supplies of "greens and salads." He had come down to Clayoquot to haul up the LiTiiy Washington — now a brigantine — to grave at a place which he had fortified and named Fort Washington. During this sojourn, Kendrick pur- chased of the principal chiefs several large tracts of land, for whi<:h he paid mostly in arms and ammunition. The lands were taken possession of with much ceremony, the United States flag hoisted, and a bottle sunk in the ground. Ken- drick sailed for China, September 29, tfiking with him the deeds which were duly registered, it was said, at the consulate in Canton. I duplicate copies were prepared, one of which was sent to Jefferson and filed in the State I^epart- ment at Washington. The originals were signed by the chiefs (as documents are signed by people who can only make their "mark"), and witnessed by several of the officers and crew of the vessel. These deeds ran somewhat as follows : " In consideration of six muskets, a boat's sail, a (|uantity of powder, and an American Hag (they heinj; articles whicli we at present stand in need of, and are of great value) we do bargain, grant, and sell unto John Kendrick of ISoston, a certain harbor in said .\hasset, in which the brig Wash- /;/;■•/('// lay at anchor on the 5th of August, 1791, Latitude 49'-' 50 ' .... with all the lands, mines, minerals, rivers, bays, harbors, sounds, creeks, and all islands .... with all the produce of land and sea .... being a territorial distance of eighteen miles square .... to have and to hold," etc. The names of some of the signing chiefs were Maquinna, Wicananish, Narry Yonk, and Tarrasone. It was Captain Cray's intention to go •m /tt/J into v/inter quarters at Naspatee, in Bul- finch Sound, and he hastened that way, but, being thwarted by contrary winds, they put in at Clayoquot, and finding ex- cellent timber for the construction of the proposed sloop, he decided to remain 484 THE SHIP COLUMBIA AND AFTER AN OLD DRAWING BY DAVIDSON. The Ship "Columbia" surprised by the Natives of Chickleset. there. The ship was made as snug as possible in a well-sheltered harbor which they called Adventure Cove. The sails were unbent, the topgallant, topmasts, and yards were unrigged and stowed below. A space was cleared on shore, and a log-house built, the crew all work- ing with a will. One party went out cut- ting plank ; another to shoot deer and geese. The carpenters soon put up a very substantial building to accommodate a force of ten men, containing a chimney, forge, workshop, storeroom, and sleeping- bunks. It served, also, the purpose of a fort, having two cannon mounted out- side and one inside through a porthole. All around there were loopholes for small arms. This they called Fort Defence, and here they lived like civilized and Chris- tian men. The log rej^orts : '• On Sunday all hands at rest from their labors. Per- formed divine service." The keel of the sloop was soon laid and the work went bravely forward. The sketch of this scene shows Captain Cray conferring with Mr. Yendell about the plan of the sloop. The days grew short and cold, the sun being much obscured by the tall forest trees all around them. Some of the nu were taken ill with colds and rheumat pains, and had to be removed aboard shi; The natives of the adjoining tribe becani quite familiar. The chiefs and the wives visited the fort and the ship alnio- every day, coming across the bay in the: canoes. The common Indians were iii allowed to land, a sentinel being alway on guard, night and day. Captain (Ira was disposed to be very kind to the na- tives. He often visited their village- carrying drugs, rice, bread, and molasst for their sick people. Going one cl with his clerk, Hoskins, they persuade a woman to have her face washed, whe: it appeared that she had quite a fair con. plexion of red and white, and "one e the most delightful countenances," say Hoskins, " that my eyes ever beheli^ She was indeed a perfect beauty ! " Sli got into her canoe and soon after rt turned with her face as dirty as ever. Sli had been laughed at by her companion for having it washed. It was a comnio practice among some of the tribes fi both sexes to slit the under liji and wca in it a plug of bone or wood, fitted wit holes from which they hung beads. On the 1 8th of P'ebruary, several chiei THE DISCOVERY OF OREGON. 4H5 bme of the nu and rheumat: ved aboard shi; ling tribe becan. hiefs and tlu 1 the ship ahiio- ; the bay in the: Indians were ni lel being ahvav . Captain (Ira kind to the nr :1 their village id, and molassi Going one d, they persuade :e washed, who: quite a fair con. ;e, and " one i itenances," sav js ever beheli: beauty ! " Sli soon after rt ty as ever. Sh her companion t was a comnio the tribes fi ler lij:) and wea r-ood, fitted wit: ng beads, ■y, several chief came over as usual, among them Toto- teescosettle. Alas ! for poor human nature, he was detected stealing the boat- swain's jacket. Soon after he had gone, Attoo, the Hawaiian lail, informed the captain of a deep-lafd plot to capture the ship. The natives, he said, had promised to make him a great chief if he would wet the ship's fire-arms and give them a lot of musket balls. They were planning to come through the woods and board the ship from the high bank near by, and kill every man on board except Attoo. dray's excitement can be easily imagined. All his heavy guns were on shore, but he ordered the swivels loaded at once, ;'.-d the ship to be re- moved away from the bank. Haswell pat the fort in a good state of defence, reloaded all the cannon and had the small arms put in order. The ship's people were ordered aboard^ At dead of night the war-whoop was heard in the forest. The savages had stealthily assembled by hundreds, but finding their plan frus- trated, they reluctantly went away. On the 23d of February, the sloop was kunched and taken alongsiile the Co- lumbia. She was named the At/i'i'iititre, and reckoned at 44 tons ; upon receiv- hig her cargo and stores, she was sent northward on a cruise under Haswell. She was the second vessel ever built on the coast and proved to be a good sea- boat and could even outsail the Columbia. (iray soon after took his ship on a cruise which was destined to be the most important of all — one that will be re- membered as Ijng as the United States exist. On the 29th of April, 1792, he fell in with Vancouver who had been sent out from luigland with three vessels of the Royal Navy as commissioner to execute the provisions of the Nootka Treaty, and to explore the coast. Van- couver said he had made no discoveries as yet, and inquired if (iray had made any. The Yankee captain replied that he had; that in latitude 46° 10' he had recently been off the mouth of a river which for nine days he tried to enter, but the outset was so strong as to prevent. He was going to try it again, however. Vancouver said this must have been the opening passed by him two days before, which he thought might be " a small river," inaccessible on account of the breakers extending across it, the land behind not indicating it to be of any great extent. " Not considering this opening worthy of more attention," wrote Vancouver in his journal, " I continued our pursuit to the northwest." What a turn in the tide of events was that ! Had the British navigator really seen the river, it would certainly have had another name and another history. Oray continued his " pursuit " to the southeast, whither the star of his destiny was directing him. On the 7th of May, he saw an entrance in latitude 46° 58' "which had a very good a])pearance of a harbor," and observing from the mast- head a passage between the sand bars he bore away and ran in. This he called Bulfinch Harbor, though it was very soon after called, as a deserved compliment to him, Oray's Harbor — the name which it still bears. Here he was attacked by the natives, and obliged in self-defence to fir-e upon them with serious results. David- son's drawing gives a weird view of the scene. On the eveni'ig of May loth, dray resumed his course to the south, and at daybreak, on the 1 1 th, he saw " the en- trance of his desired port " a long way off. As he drew near about eight o'clock he bore away with all sails set and ran in between the breakers. To his great delight he found himself in a large river of fresh water, up which he steered ten miles. There were Indian villages at intervals along the banks, and many canoes canie out to inspect the strange visitor. The ship came to anchor at one o'clock in ten fathoms of water, half a mile from the northern shore, and two miles and a half from the southern, the riser being three or four miles wide all the way along. Here they remained three days busily trading and taking in water. On the 14th, he stood \\\) ihe river some fifteen miles farther, " and doubted not it was navigable ujiwards of a hun- dred." He found the channel on that side, however, so very narrow and crooked that the shij) grounded on the sandy bottom, but they backed off without '^Sm' 480 THE SHIP COLUMBIA AND difficulty. The jolly-boat was sent out to sound the channel, but finding it still shallow, Gray decided to return, and. on the 15 th, he dropped down with the tide, going ashore with his clerk " to take a short view of the country." On the 1 6th, he anchored off the village of Chenook, whose population turned out in great numbers. The next day the ship Cape Disappointment and Deception Bay. But none of these can be properly said to have discovered the river. Cer- tainly, Meares, whose claim England maintained so long, showed, by the very names he gave to the cape and the "bay," that he was after all deceived about it. And he gives no suggestion of the river ou his map. D'Aguilar was AFTER AN OLO DRAWING BV OAVUDSON. In the Straits of Juan dp Fuca CAITAIN C, ;AV (illUCED TO FIRE I'I'ON THE NATIVES WHO niSREGARDED HIS ORDERS TO KEEP OFF. was painted anc all I.ands were busily at work. On the 1 9th, they landed near the mouth of the river and formally named it, after the ship, the COLUMBIA, raising the American flag and planting coins under a large pine tree, thus taking possession in the name of the United States. The conspicuous headland was named Cape Hancock and the low sandspit opposite, Point Adams. The writer is well aware that the word discovery may be taken in different senses. When it is claimed that Cap- tain Gray discovered this river, the mean- ing is that he was the first white man to cross its bar and sail up its broad expanse and give it a name. Undoubtedly, Car- ver — to whom the word Oregon is traced — may have heard of the river in 1707 from the Indians in the Rocky Mountains; and Heceta, i.i 1775, was near enough to its mouth to believe in its existence; and Meares, in 1788, named credited with finding a great river as far back as 1603, but, according to his lati- tude, it was not this river ; and even, if it was, there is no evidence that he en- tered it. The honor of discovery must practically rest with Gray. His was the first ship to cleave its waters ; his, the first chart ever made of its shores ; his, the first landing ever effected there by a civilized man ; and the name he gave it has been uni- versally accejited. The flag which he there threw to the breeze was the first en- sign of any nation that ever waved over iHose unexplored banks. And the cere- mony of occupation, under such circum- stances, was something more than a holi- day pastime. It was a serious act, per- formed in sober earnest, and reported to the world as soon as possible. And when we remember that as a re- sult of this came the Lewis and Clarke Expedition of 1804-5, ^nd the settle- THE DISCOVERY OF OREGON. 487 ment at Astoria in 1811 — to say nothing of our diplomatic acquisition of the old Spanish rights — then we may safely say that the title of the United States to the Columbia River and its tributaries be- comes incontestible. Such was the out come of the " Oregon Question " in 1846. On leaving the river, May 20, the Columbia sailed up to Naspatee where she was obliged to use her guns to check a hostile demonstration of the savages. And soon after, in going up Pintard's Sound, she was again formidably attacked by war canoes, and obliged to open fire upon them with sericus results. In a cruise soon after, the ship struck on a rock and was so badly injured that she returned to Naspatee and underwent some repairs and then sailed for Nootka, and on July 23 reported her condition to the governor, Don Quadra, who generously offered every assistance, allowed them his storehouses for their cargo, gave up the second-best house in the settlement for the use of Captain Ciray and his clerk, and insisted upon having their company at his own sumptuous table at every meal. Such politeness was, of course, very agree- able to the weary voyagers, and was held in such grateful remembrance in sub- sequent years, that Captain Cray named his first-born child, Robert Dftn Quadra Gray, for the governor as well as himself. It was during this visit that Gray and Ingraham wrote their joint letter to the governor, which was often quoted in the course of the Anglo-Spanish negotiations. In September; Ciray sold the little sloop Adventure to Quadra for seventy -five sea-otter skins of the best quality, and transferred her officers and crew to the Columbia. As he sailed away, he saluted the Spanish flag with thirteen guns, and shaped his course for China. As the sea- son was late and the winds unfavorable, he abandoned the project of visiting Japan, which the owners had recommended. Great was the joy of the crew when they found themselves homeward bound. They had an easy run to the Sandwich Islands where they took in a supply of provisions and fruits, sailing again November 3, and reaching Macao Roads December 7, in a somewhat leaky condi- '-^.^J^^ / /!>^ tion. The skins were se .t up to Canton and the ship was repaired near Whampoa, and duly freighted with tea, sugar, china- ware, and curios. On the 3d of February, the Columbia set sail for Boston. While at anchor, near Bocca Tigris, her cable was cut by the Chinese, and she drifted slowly ashore, almost unobserved by the officer of the watch. This proved to be the last of her tribulations, as it was also one of the least. In the Straits of Sunda they met a British fleet, escorting L^^rd Macartney, the Ambassador, to Pekin, for whom Captain Gray took despatches as far as St. Helena. At last, after all her wanderings, the good ship reached Boston, July 29, 1793, and received another hearty welcome. Although the expectations of the owners were not realized, one of them wrote " she has made a saving voyage and some profit." But in the popular mind the discovery of the great river was sufficient " profit " for any vessel, and this alone will immortalize the owners as well as the ship and her ^captain, far more, indeed, than furs or teas or gold could have done. It remains only to add that in a few years the ship was worn out and taken to 1 o ^f? r N 488 THE SHIP COLUMBIA. X pieces, and soon her chief officers all Rover in the Pacific. Haswell sailed for passed away. Kendrick never returned the last time in 1 80 1, and was also lost to America. After opening a trade in on the return voyage. AFTER AN OLD DRAWING RY DAVIDSON. At Whampoa " CAPTAIN GRAY, FAClNd THE SHU'S, CONVERSES WITH A KKIESU ll'DS THE DISCOVERY OF OREGON." sandalwood, he was accidentally killed at the Hawaiian Islands, and the Lady Washington was soon after lost in the Straits of Malacca. His Nootka lands never brought anything to the captain or his descendants, or to the owners of the ship. In fact, the title was never con- firmed. Gray commanded several ves- sels after this, but died, in 1806, at Charleston, S. C. Ingraham became an officer in our navy, but went down with the ill-fated \)X\g Pickering in 1800. The same year Davidson was lost on the Their names, however, will always be associated^ with the ship they served so well ; and as long as the broad " river of the West" flows on in its course, so long will the Columbia be gratefully remem- bered by the people of America. This is the year of Oregon's first Centennial, and the enthusiasm it has awakened clearly shows that the highest honor on that coast will hereafter be given to the heroic discoverers who prepared the way for the pioneers and settlers, and thus added a fine group of States to our federal Union. d for ) lost ^'s be sd so •er of ) long mem- 'his is I, and learly that leroic Dr the led a Inion.