.^.. ^. %^.. -rv; IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TA'«GET (MT-3) // ^o 1.0 I.I 11.25 ISO *^^ MsB ■it Bi 12.2 E Hi *" ; 1^ 112.0 1.4 iiy& iU4 Photographic Sciences Corporation as WIST MAIN STRUT WMSTH.N.Y. 14SI0 (716)l7a-4S03 %^ \ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Instituta for Historical IVAicroraproductions / Institut Canadian da microraproductions historiquaa Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the Isest original cooy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D D D D D D D □ Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagAe Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^ et/ou pellicuMe I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes g6ographiques en couleur Coloured init (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other matf^rijl/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr6e peut causer de i'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whehever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutAes lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, male, lorsque cela 4tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas AtA filmAes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmentaires; L'Institut a microfilm* le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a At* possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sent peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique. qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m^thode normale de f ilmage sont indiQ«o 222458 JAM AN! THE 8 TO HIS EXCELLENCY JAMES MACAULAY HIGGINSON, GOVERNOR-GENERAL AND COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF IN AND OVER THE ISLANDS OF ANTIGUA, MONTSERRAT, BARBUDA, SAINT CHRISTOPHER, NEVIS, ANGUILLA, DOMINICA, AND THE VIRGIN ISLANDS, €Yu Wutk, THE RESULT OF NOTES COMMENCED WHEN ENJOYING HIS SOCIETY AND HOSPITALITY IN GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ANTIGUA, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HIS OBLIGED FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. \ gene a lit mucJ exce and ingc atter Wes prov then for t urge] in lit duce confi book indu< PREFACE " I'll publish, right or wrong!" — Byron. To be last written, and least read, is the fate of the generality of prefaces. In a chapter which belongs to a literary family, of which such a remark may, with much truth, be made, length were a fault, brevity an excellence. My Preface to the following " Impressions and Experiences" will therefore be very short, consist ing of little more than the acknowledgment that if the attempt to delineate life, manners, and scenery in the West Indies, and in America, should unfortunately prove unworthy of any share of public estimation, there is. no- one responsible or amenable for them, or for their publication, save myself: for although the urgency of friends, and even of friends of some name in literary life, has certainly not been wanting to in- duce me to " see my name in print," I have not such confidence in Byron's attendant dictum, " A book's a book, although there's nothing in't," which would have induced me to publish, however strongly importuned, 1* G PKKFACE. Iiad it not been for the opinion entertained by myself, that I would succeed in making my Work instructive or amusing, or perchance both. So far, therefore, from being entitled to disarm criticism by pleading, in de- fence of publication, a compliance with the solicitation of others, I am bound in truth to declare, that my chief motive for giving this Work to the press, is the hope, that a perusal of my " Impressions and Experi- ences," in the course of a voyage not frequently under- taken, will prove pleasant to many, and profitable to a few — and, more particularly, to those who may, like myself, be advised or induced to visit the West Indian Archipelago under medical advice. Add to this, that I have not been able to find, among more recent publica- tions, one which professes to give anything approaching to what I would call a domestic portraiture of the Islands and Islanders of the West Indian Archipelago, in their present state or condition. No doubt Mr. Coleridge's spirited little volume, published first in 1826, is somewhat of this character; but Mr. Cole- ridge's visit to the Islands of the West Indies was made in 1825, ere steam had wrought its marvels — and, moreover, his visit was confined to a very few of the Islands. Not only so — Mr. Coleridge's narratives, graphic and amusing as they are, have but little appli- cation to the present condition of West Indian society. They were written with exclusive reference to a state of slavery; and they are written in a strain of enthu- siastic description which, eloquent and in the main accurate as they undoubtedly are, has caused them to be regarded in the eyes of many, as extravagant, if not has thinl subj( influj gratij the by a( land, and, creas natio that! whicl and < PREFACE. by myself, instructive [•efore, from ling, in de- solicitation B, that my ress, is the ad Experi- itly under- [•ofitable to ' may, like est Indian :his, that I it publica- •proaching ire of the chipelago, loubt Mr. d first in IMr. Cole- idies was larvels — ry few of irratives, tie appli- i society. o a state )f enthu- le main them to igant, if I not incredible. In such and similar considerations has originated my desire to publish this Work; and 1 think I shall have exhausted my confessions on this subject, when I add, that I am certainly not a little influenced by a desire to repay, in part, a debt of gratitude I owe to my many dear friends, not only in the West Indies and in Canada, but in the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, by adding my tribute to the many beauties of that land, and the aany excellencies of its inhabitants ; and, by simply speaking of both as I found them in- crease, if I can, even by a little, between two great nations, identified in origin, in language, and in duty, that mutual knowledge of each other, the progress of which is doing so much to promote the cause of peace and civilization. !il Pbefaci Explanat Leaving '. Sea— J and tb Leave Bs Porpoii Englisl attachi West Ii West I Orange Antign • 1848—] Leaving j and Sp Nevis- canes ) Tortola St. Thorn mit of Palm-1 cipatioi Future CONTENTS. Pbeface, Page .. 6 CHAPTER I. Explanatory and Introductory, 13 CHAPTER II. Leaving Home— Leaving England— Southampton and Bay— Sea Voyages— At Sea — Fellow -Passengers — Making Land— Porto Santo^Madeira— Tropics and their characteristics — Barbadoes — Tropical Scenery. 15 CHAPTER in. Leave Barbadoes— St. Lucia — Martinique — Volcanic phenomena — A Shoal of Porpoises — Tropical Nights — Island of Dominica — Guadaloupe — Antigua — English Harbour, Antigua — Alone in a Foreign Land — Peculiar interest attaching to Anti^a — Capital of Antigua — Island of Montserrat — Islands of West Indian Archipelago as places of sanitary resort — Comparative view of West Indian annoyances — Fig-tree Hill, Antigua — Sunset at St. John's — Orange Valley — Height of Hills, and clearness of atmosphere — Church in Antigua — Soup House in St. John's — Earthquake of 1848 — Hurricane of 1848— Negroes, and their sayings. CHAPTER rv. Leaving Antigua— St. Chiistopher's- Climate and Scenery — Central Pathway and Spooner's Level — Visit to Nevis — Natural Baths — Lodging House of Nevis — Courts of Law — Trial by Jury — Monkey Hill — Canu Stone — Hurri- canes and Earthquakes — Islands of St. Eustatia, St. Bartholomew, Saba, Tortola, Boriquen or Crab Island— Anrival at St. Thomas, CHAPTER V. St. Thomas— Town of St. Thomas— Appearance from Sea — View from Sum- mit of Mountain — Adaptation for Piracy — Visit to Santa Cruz — Roads and Palm-Trees in Santa Cruz — Christianstadt — Insurrection of 1848, and eman- cipation of Slaves — Reflections on Former Prosperity, Present State, and Future Prospects of Santa Cruz — Return to St. Thomas, -26 55 ■TC 10 I ; '! f CONTENTS. CHAPTER VI. Leaving St. Thomas— Island of Porto Rico— Past Statistics of Population- Saint Domingo — Past History and Present I'osition — Late Transposition in Form of Government — ^Jamaica — Cruelty of Spaniards to Aborigines— Retri- butive Justice — General Characteristics of o'amaica Scenery—Visit to Port Roj .^1 Mountains — Their Scenery — Fire-Fli^s — Coffee-Plantation and Cof- fee-Piant — St. lago de la Vega— Statue to Rodney — Bog Walk — Jamaica as a place of San.tary Resort — Creole Beauty — Port Royal, 81 CHAPTER VII. Leave Jamaica — Sail to Crba — Bay and Town of Havanna — General Aspect of Havanna — Volante or Quitrin — Objects of Interest in Havanna — Grave of Columbus — Slavd Trade of Havanna — Franciscan Church and Anecdote — Judicial System and Laws of Cuba— Captain General — Cuban Statistics — Plsza de Armas — Paseo Isabel — Theatre Tacon — Campo-Santo— Public Baths of Havanna— Beauty of Cuban Ladies— Cafes— Hotels— Public Press in Cuba — Cuartado System — Domestic and Field Labourers, &c. Leave Cuba, CHAPTER VIII. Leavir '* New : k-c I Tow ': Am< |Ameri( f right \ inP iLeave I ist«n .99 |ApP' lenc The British West Indian Colonies — their Claims — Position and Prospects, • • • • 132 CHAPTER IX. Sail from Cuba to Mobile — Mobile — Sail to New Orleans — Fellow-Travellers, and their Habits and Feelings, particularly towards England — American Steam-Ships — New Orleans — fhe Crevasse and the Levee — The Mississip{)i from New Orleans to Cairo — Mouth of the Ohio — Louisville, Kentucky — Sail to Cincinnati, 180 CHAPTER X. State of Ohio — City of Cincinnati — System of Education — Pork Trade of Ohio — Railway to Sandusky — Americ£.n Democracy — Sandusky City — Lake Erie — City of Cleveland — Buffalo — Niagara Village — FaUs of Niagara and their Concomitants, 207 CHAPTER XI. Leave Niagara — Lewistown and Queenstown — Brock's Monument — Lake On- tario — Oswego — Kingston — Ogdensburg and Prescott — St. Lawrence and its Scenery — Thousand Islands — Shoot^^ing the Rapids — Lachine — Lachine Rail- way and Montreal— Quebec and its citadel, &c. — Falls of the Montmorenci . — Return to Montreal — Public Fooling in Canada, and its Causes, 280 CHAPTER XII. Leave Montreal — La Prairie — Railway to St. John's — Stcnmer Burlington — Lake Champlain — Lake George — Whitehall — Rail to Siuatoga — Saratoga and its Springs — Railway to 1 roy and Albany — Albany — Hudson River — Arrival at New York, • • • - 249 CHAPTER X:il. City and Harbour of New York — English Navigation Laws— Papulation and Progress of New York — Comparative Vit'y of New York and Glasgow in Scotland — Omnibusses in New York — Croton Wuter- Works — Opera House Riot in 1849 — Summary of Memorabilia of New York — Routes from New York to Philadelphia — Philadelphia, &c. — Girard College — Routes from Philadelphia to Baltimore— Baltimore — Monument to Washmgton — Railway to Washmgton — Capital, and its Capitol, 25 CONTENTS. II s of Population— i Transposition in Lboriffines — Retri- !ry— Visit to Port mtation and Cof- ; Walk— Jamaica 1» 81 —General Aspect Havanna — Grave ■oh and Anecdote luban Statistics — 30-Santo — Public 3ls — Public Press rers, &c. Leave • 99 CHAPTER XIV. leaving Washington — Return to New York wa Baltimore and Philadelph? i * New York— Route to Boston — New England Railways — The Pilgrim Fathers l\, — City of Boston — Harvard University- -Cemetery of Mount Ai.buiu — ■ Town of Lowell, its Original Foundplion, Rise and Progiess,— Leaving America, 93 CHAPTER XV. lAmericans and their Characteristics — American Slavery — Intei national Copy- I right- Emigration to North America in General, and to the United States « in Particular, - 308 CHAPTER XVI. iLeave Boston and Halifax— Voyage Home— Icebergs — Shoal of Whaias— Ex- I istence of Sea-Serpent — Old England, 341 i |Appendix ••347 id Prospects, •...132 ellow-Travellers, land — American -The Mississippi Kentucky — Sail • 180 k Trade of Ohio ky City— Lake of Niagara and •207 lent— Lake On- awrence and its — Lachine Rail- e Montmorenci auses. •230 T Burlington — oga — Saratoga [udson River — "jpulation and nd Glasgow in -Opera House ites from New —Routes from fton — Railway 25 ■249 It is Bligbtesl receptio Eind nui )ublic/' ?bat th [underta] JThat, in sojourn, any ties medical tlie cliii] Was like diseases And It city dec and rea( at very But, of the b THE WEST INDIES. CHAPTER I. I EXPLANATOIIY AND INTRODUCTORY. " Utinom tam facile vera invenire quam falsa convlncere." TtTTl TOtlY. \ It is not because it is imagined that it is a circumstance of the Islightest consequence in itself, or one likely to afiFect, in any way, the freception which this book may receive at the hands of that august and numerous body whom it is customary to designate " a liberal public," that I set out with the mention of these two facts — Firsfj That the journey ings which have given cause to these notes were undertaken solely on account, or in pursuit of health j and. Second, That, in seUcting the Weg India Islands as my place of temporary sojourn, I was not influenced by any considerations of business or by any ties of connection. To these islands I went solely because, after medical consultations, numerous and erudite, it was supposed that the climate of these " Beautiful islands I where the green Wliich Nature wears was never seen 'Neatli zone of Europe ; where tlie hue Of sea and heaven Is sue h a blue As England dreams not ; where the night Is all irradiate with tlio light Of starlike moons, which, hung on high, Breathe and quiver in the sky,'* was likely to have a salutary and a sanitary effect on the disease or diseases under which my corporeal frame was supposed to labour I And I took the westerly route readily, becuuse, as the resident of a city deeply interested in colonial matters, I had for a long tin > heard and read much of West India distress, without being able to arrive at very definite or tangible notions as to its nature, causes, or extent. But, if the mention of these facts be not important to the success of the book, " Why," the reader may ask, " am I treated or troubled ROUTE TRAVELLED. with these personal:ties at all 1" The question, good reader, is a fair one, and will be honestly answered. I have no interest in recording the facts, but you have an interest in knowing them, and a right to know thcra. You have honoured me so far as to commence the perusal of my work, (whether you intend to finish it or not is another question entirely ;) and, without prying into matters which concern only your bookseller and yourself, 1 take it for granted that you have paid for the privilege of perusal, such as it is. You have therefore a right to know everything that can throw light upon the bias or honesty under or with which my book has been penned. Now, it is well known that the object for which a man sees, or goes to see, will greatly affect the medium through which he sees, and the lights under which he afterwards represents the objects seen. Of no part of the globe does this more truly hold good than of the British colonial possessions in the West Indies. Therefore it is that I ha\e deemed it right thus, in the outset, to chronicle the fact that, in mj voyagings to the West, I went neither as a friend of slavery nor as an emanci- pationist ; I journeyed neither as a Protectionist, nor as a Ministe- rialist, nor as a Free-trader. The route undertaken and accomplished was from England to Bar- badoes, by way of Madeira, and thence, in a north-west direction, through the numerous English, French, Danish and Spanish islands of the West Indian Archipelago. Thereafter from Cuba across the Gulf of Mexico to Mobile and New Orleans, up the Mississippi and the Ohio to Cincinnati, northward to the great American Jakes into Ca- nada — and from Canada, by the Hudson river to New York and the other great cities of the American Union. Any more minute detail of the lines of travel has been rendered unnecessary by the note of contents prefixed to each chapter, for the guidance and convenience of the reader. I have only to add, that, throughout, it has been my main object to vindicate the humble title I have selected for my book, by chroni- cling incidents exactly as they occurred, and things precisely as they are j and, whatever reception my descriptions may meet with, I have received from them much pleasure in the minute record kept by me of my daily experiences, and in the excerpting from these copious though rough notes, such portions of them as I have thought worthy of the honour, and likely to excite attention and create interest in the minds of general readers. In in imn But, w ark to who, ai ails to team s laims 1 on to t ly "in he nob found paid foi feet squ lucendo ship ac( represei colourci perienc lost the ties wh: to thei delusioi announ cloud \ cabin h and CO erronec closet the be^ It w the mc \ those I of Sco the we LEAVING HOME. 15 1 reader, is a fair rest in recording n, and a right to commence the or not is another rs which concern ted that you have u have therefore ipon the bias or ned. Now, it is • goes to see, will 1 the lights under f no part of the British colonial it I ha^e deemed , in my voyagings lor as an emanci- lor as a Ministc- England to Bar- h-west direction, 1 Spanish islands Cuba across the > Mississippi and jan lakes into Ca- }W York and the )re minute detail y by the note of and convenience my main object book, by ehroni- precisely as they eet with, I have cord kept by mc u these copious lought worthy of interest in the CHAPTER II. *' Adieu ! adieu I my native shore ' Fades o'er the waters blue." — BrKOJf. " Ille robur et ods triplex Circa pectus erat, qui fragllom truci Commisit pelago ratem" — IIohacs. In one of the above mottoes, the Augustan poet has chronicled, in immortal verse, the hardihood of the most " ancient mariner." But, whatever the courage of the sailor who first committed a frail jark to any sea j or, whatever the courage of the great Columbus, ivho, anticipating Columbia over the distant wave, first stretched his ails to cross the broad Atlantic in search of a New World ; I fear iteam and its triumphs have destroyed, for the modern traveller, all 5laims to any unwonted degree of courage, when he intrusts his per- on to the tender mercies of the uncertain sea. Such, at least, were ny "impressions and experiences," ere I had been a week on board he noble steam-ship, the Great Western. At first, like all landsmen, [ found myself not merely cabined, (that I had bargained as well as paid for,) but " cabined, cribbed, and confined," in the six or eight feet square, facetiously denominated a " state room." Lucus a non lucendo. Like those of many other persons, my notions of steam- ship accommodation had been somewhat formed from the pictorial representations exhibited in agents' offices, and from the highly coloured pictures of the comforts of a life at sea drawn by ex- perienced voyagers, who, having frequently made the voyage, had lost their sense of the disagreeables in their appreciation of the beau- ties which it opened to their view, and in the health which it imparted to their frame. But it was only at first that the dispelling of the delusion left a feeling of disappointment. Ere Porto Santo was announced to be in sight, (although nothing more than a seeming cloud was at first visible,) I had become perfectly reconciled to ray cabin home, and quite prepared to vindicate its spaciousness, salubrity, and convenience, against the sneers of any Exquisite who might erroneously imagine an extensive bedroom and separate dressing- closet among the essentials of human happiness. But to begin at the beginning. It was on a miserably wet cold morning, in the very beginning of the month of January 1849, that, after bidding a fond farewell to those near and dear to me, I started from the commercial metropolis of Scotland, par rail, to London. My spirits were in keeping with the weather. Indeed, I envy not the man who, whatever his pros- 16 LEAVING ENGLAND. pects of enjoyment may be, can leave his native land and a happj Lome for a far-olF country, ■without deep and painful feelings of re- luctance and regret. When, therefore, I started on my journeyings, I was not much in the vein for " pencillings by the way/' and, ever had it been otherwise, the journey from Glasgow to London is too well known, and (thanks to the excellence of our railways) too rapidly travelled, to require, or indeed to justify, any descriptive re- marks other than those of the Guide Books. The only thing that occurs to me to note, is the rapidity with which the transit is now effected. Eleven o'clock at night found me in London, having travelled the four hundred and twenty miles, or thereby, in twelve and a half hours. Similar remarks apply to the journey from Lon- don to Southampton, performed on the afternoon of the immediately succeeding day. At the end of this trip, I bade farewell, for a time, to English .ail ways, not then knowing, that notwithstanding all the vaunting of our Transatlantic friends, I was not tO see anything of the kind — anything like them, or half so good, so swift, so comfort- able, or so safe — till I should again put foot in old England. At Southampton I sojourned at the Dolphin Hotel; and as I perceive it is the good custom of more experienced tourists to record for the guidance and benefit of their " successors in office," the hostelries in which comforts and condiments are to^be found, I here pledge mj veracity to tlic fact that the Dolphin Hotel in Southampton — albeit that, during my sojourn there, the weather was bitterly cold, and that the house is more adapted for a summer than a winter residence — is a hostelry of exceeding comfort and excellent cooking. In South- ampton and the neighbourhood are to bo seen various objects and institutions of interest and attraction, which will amply repay a visit, but, as they are fully chronicled in Mr. Osborne's book, and in other Guide Books, and as my stay in Southampton was but brief, I will leave those to other pens, and proceed at once on board the good ship Great Western, which was to convey me to Madeira, en route for the West Indies. The Great Western lay out at anchor in the middle of the arm of the sea, termed (on the same lucus a non lucendo principle) Southampton river; and we reached it by a miserable small steamer, which conveyed the passengers, with the small lug- gage of the general body, and the whole luggage of the favoured few, on board The Ship — the heavier luggage of those not in the secret having been sent before, at their expense^ in sailing boats, after they had been again and again told that, on no account whatever, would heavy luggage be permitted on board the Tender steam-boat. But this is not the only instance in which I have found alleged impossibilities give way before favouritism or influence. I was accompanied on board by two good friends, who had kindly resolved not to part from me till the last. The day was cold and wet, [not c( [elude in a forme from the la descri reachi almos dresse all every had I of coi callini I ready which I a hast we W( strain come like a enoug Butl even i were book, ' few w quite abode * some^ To re and ! taken sonali frienc salooi day,: pitch; me ( prept to, tl neceg ! llW LEAVING ENGLAND. 17 land and a happj Fill feelings of re- I my journeyings, ! way;" and, even !;o London is too )ur railways) too ny descriptive re- e only thing that le transit is now London, having hereby, in twelve )urnoy from Lon- the immediately •ewell, for a time, istanding all the see anything of swift, so comfort- Id England. At nd as I perceive to record for the ' the hostelries in here pledge mj hampton — albeit ly cold, and that ;er residence — is ;ing. In South- ious objects and ply repay a visit, 3ok, and in other but brief, I will ird the good ship , en route for the >r in the middle a non lucendo by a miserable the small lug- of the favoured those not in lewse, in sailing that, on no on board the in which I have sm or influence, vho had kindly ly was cold and wet, and the sea rough. The cabin of the small steamboat could not contain the one-fourth of our number. We formed, friends in- cluded, a party greatly exceeding a hundred ; and, being enshrouded in a multifarious variety of pea-jackets, cloaks, and water-proofs, we formed a group so unpicturesque and unattractive, that it is only from a vivid recollection of the superior claims, in these respects, of the larger world we found on board the Great Western, that I waive description of the minor scene, and proceed to the larger one. On reaching the steamship, we encountered a scene of confusion which almost baflies description. Passengers of every variety of tongue, dressed in costume of eve^y variety of colours, with hats of all imaginable shapes, colours, and kinds — running about in ^very direction, and poking their heads into places where they had no business to be, in their attempts to secure preferences of conveniences for themselves, and to vindicate possession of their luggage : to this add the noises of the live stock, the tramplings and callings attending the getting in of the cargo and getting the ship ready for sea, and you may have, reader, some idea of the confusion which attends the getting underweigh for a foreign voyage. After a hasty but handsome luncheon, which was on the saloon table when we went on board, and to which we were invited by the national strain " The roast beef of Old England," our friends said the unwel- come " farewell," and left us to our meditations, as the noble ship, like a thing of life, panted forth upon her voyage. Mine were dull enough, and I am not ashamed to acknowledg 5 that they were so. But I was roused from them by a somewhat ludicrous incident, which, even at the risk of having my wisdom impugned, I shall here record were it only for the warning of such travellers as may peruse my book, and contemplate a similar trip. Like most persons, save the few who prefer ship-board to terra firma, and think " state rooms" quite roomy and airy, I thought the closet, which was to be my abode probably for the next three weeks, or perchance longer, was somewhat dark, and had somewhat of a close and confined odour. To remedy this, I had opened the port-hole ; and having done so, and seen my luggage deposited within, I had locked the door and taken the key with me, to prevent any interference with my " per- sonals," till after the ship should sail. Thereafter, and when my friends had left me, I lay down on a sofa in the afterpart of the saloon. There, exhausted by my feelings, and the turmoil of the day, I fell asleep, and did not waken for some hours, or till the pitching of the vessel, after she had passed the " Needles," roused me effectually. Then I sought my so-called berth, in every way prepared to acknowledge that, in the state I felt myself approaching to, the recumbent position was the most natural, if not the most necessary. But, alas ! the same sea which aroused me from my 2* 18 SHIP COMFORTS. Ill II III! I i; ' slumbers, had washed through the open port of ray state-room, satu- rated my bed and bed-clothes, and had sent the different articles of my apparelling to intricate corners of the confined space. Occurring, as this did, on a wet night, at ten o'clock, and when starting in a somewhat invalided state on a long voyage, it was unpleasant enough. But the necessities of the case roused me from my melancholy mus- ings, better, probably, than more comfortable circumstances would have done j and, notwithstanding the first declaration of the steward- assistant, that, the vessel being full, there were no more spare mat- tresses or bed-clothes to be had that night, I succeeded in a few hours, by the exercise of persuasion and the influence of a somewhat more potent power, in having things put to rights, and retired to rest — agreeably surprised to find that, although the pitching of the ship had increased, my incipient tendency to sea-sickness had nearly disappeared. This, however, is not the only instance in which I have found that over-exertion was the best cure for the malade du mer. While mentioning the stewards of the ship, I deem it not out of place, and likely to be useful, to mention here the fact that, on the occasion of this voyage, formal and written complaint was made by the passengers of the inattention and inefl&ciency of the stewards, particularly at the outset of the voyage ; and this I think a matter peculiarly worthy the attention of this "West Indian Steam-Packet Company. For many and obvious reasons, some of which will appear in the course of my narration, this is a route which is likely to be- come a favourite one for and with invalids. At all events it will probably become so, if proper attention is paid to their comfort and safety during and for the voyage. The ad nntages of sea voyages for the cure of dyspeptics, and the beneficir. - results likely to accrue from such voyages in the incipient stages of pulmonary complaints, arc beginning to attract much more attention than had been given to them formerly; and the advantages of a West Indian voyage, now that steam has made its direction and duration matters of certainty, consists mainly in this — that the medical adviser, who recommends it as a sanitary measure, can calculate on his patient being in the midst of bright skies and balmy breezes within five or six days after leaving England, and this whatever may be the period of the year at which the voyage is adventured on. But the transition from the conveniences and comforts usually possessed by an invalid at home, to the capabilities of the six or eight feet square called a state room on board a ship, is, under any circumstances, a great and a harsh one. So great and so harsh that, unless preventive measures can be taken, there is some chance of the debilitated patient suffering more injury from the confinement, damp, and closeness of the ship, than he or she reaps benefit from the improvement of the climate. This so |hat ai %ue, a] «^e in fiscom ly son ihcse Ind, m fervan fation. ess ai plaint the ser ance ai fet, bei ^lottost ri %ers, il %i this '^tewari bailing Iwere c ^^teame jtion; i |munic£ Jobviou suflBcie several «T1 for 18 Grace 80 far Mr. Ti sailed of the was tl: I an isl \ could I scene I the in \ racter ; melan % On say fo exten the h' :itl AT SEA. 19 state-room, satu- Fcrent articles of ice. Occurring, ben starting in a pleasant enough, nelancholy mus- imstances would I of the steward- more spare mat- cceeded in a few e of a somewhat !, and retired to pitching of the mess had nearly ace in which I ' the malade du em it not out of fact that, on the nt was made by f the stewards, think a matter Q Steam-Packet hich will appear I is likely to be- lli events it will leir comfort and of sea voyages likely to accrue ary complaints, had been given ian voyage, now rs of certainty, ho recommends nt being in the r six days after i of the year at ition from the ivalid at home, Bd a state room b and a harsh leasures can be suflTering more the ship, than climate. This ^ so plainly true, and so oft confirmed by melancholy experience, |hat argument to prove it wore a mere waste of time; and it is alao 'ue, and obviously true, that it is at the outset of a sea voyage that le invalid traveller, and indeed any traveller, is most alive to the liscomforts of a ship, and is consequently most likely to be benefited ly some degree of extra attention. It is however to be feared, that |hese facts sometimes escape the attention of steamboat directors ', *|nd, most assuredly, the written complaints, of the inattention of the Jervants, made on the occasion of this voyage, were not without foun- lation. In every other respect, and particularly as regards the polite- less and consideration evinced by the captain and ofiicers, no com- tlaint could be made, and no complaint was made. But as regards the servants, and particularly at the outset of he voyage, the attend- ance and attention were anything but satisfactory. I say at the out- let, because, while it was then that consideration and attention were iost required, and would have been most appreciated by the passen- ;ers, it was then that the want of it was most displayed : the reason »f this being, as I was afterwards informed, that the majority of the Steward's assistants had been engaged only a few days before the jailing of the ship j so that, at the commencement of the voyage, they Iwere comparatively new to their work, to each other, and to the leteamer. This, however, is plainly an explanation, not a justifica- ftion ; and it is only now mentioned, because it was the excuse com- imunicated to my fellow-passengers and to myself. It is sufficiently lobvious that arrangements might be made for the attendance of a I sufficient corps of stewards to accompany each successive ship on I several voyages. " That man is to be pitied," says Mr. Turner in his annual tour I for 1844, "who has never sailed from Southampton to Havre de Grace;" and although I cannot carry my feelings of commiseration so far as to embrace all mankind, save such as are not included in Mr. Turner's remark, I can safely affirm, that he or she who has not sailed from Southampton on a foreign voyage, has something to see of the beauties of Old England. Comparatively disadvantageous as was the day when I sailed past and away from the Isle of Wight — I an island with much justice called the " Garden of England" — I '■{ could not fail to observe the many elements of beauty which the I scene possesses ; or to perceive that, on a fine clear day, and under I the influence of a summer sun, it must in every way merit the cha- I racter as being a scene calculated to " rejoice the gay, soothe the I melancholy, and even warm the indifierent." I On reaching deck next morning, I faund myself^ I may almost I say for the first time in my life, (a Channel voyage having been the I extent of my previous experience) " at sea." Before, behind, around, the heavens and earth were only separated by the line of the natural 20 FELLOW-PASSENGERS. H^i Lorizon, and tho ship in which I was formed the centre of the visibl- world. It has been often enough remarked, that a sea voyage affords bu few events or incidents to chronicle, for the interest of tho genera, reader; and this one certainly formed no exception to the rule " Sometimes we see a ship, sometimes we ship a sea ;" while occa sionally the announcement of a ship in sight, caused a very unusua. degree of excitement among the passengers who might happen to h on deck — all and each left their perusal of Macaulay's History oj EngJandy (then recently published, and of which, to the credit oi the party, we had at least some dozen copies on board and in mud request,) and their various occupations. Telescopes were had on re quisition, and the utmost anxiety was displayed to ascertain the im portant facts of whether the vessel was the " 3Iaria" or the " Janet,' the "Kuby" or the "Pearl" — was laden with "fruit" or with "tim- ber" was bound for London or Liverpool. Such occasional occur- rences, with the somewhat amusing occupation (to those who, like myself, had overcome the demon of sea-sickness at an early period of the voyage) of observing the gradual increase of the number of pro- menaders on deck, and the gradual improvement in the external ap- pearance of each, generally supply sufficient excitement for tho first few days after the vessel gets to sea. As seen when, or soon after, the ship leaves the port of departure, one's fellow-passengers generally appear under a very monotonous, and perhaps not very inviting aspect ; and literally, as well as figura- tively, it may be said that it is not for some days that the various members cpnstituting the "living freight" appear under their proper coheirs. As regards my fellow-voyagers, on the occasion in question, I am bound to acknowledge that I was peculiarly fortunate. For although their number exceeded a hundred, and although there was among so many as great a variety of minds and of manner as there unquestion- ably, as well as amusingly, was of hats, caps, coats, and mustaches — (strange that so many Englishmen, when going abroad, should think of disfiguring their physiognomies with the unnational mustache) — there were none among their number of peculiarly ill-regulated minds or ofiensive habits j and there were several among them of whose elegance, talents, and general acceptability, I shall ever retain a most grateful recollection. Having always regarded the un- authorised introduction of individual names, and of scenes of private life, into narratives of travel, as an act much to be reprobated, it were a violation of my own views of propriety were I here to men- tion the names of any of my fellow-voyagers. But, without the chance of offending even the most fastidious feelings of any of them, (should this work come under their observation^) I may mention Ithat, and h *Vctire tnthu tor, iture— jtions- Ibvenii voyj four )revei It 'South ;which Iras, loing lavigJ toldb fa part fwas w lAgain Iclearl; I her C( 1 northc tion I were i of the Bu the at ance < sation mast-] pause write uneve movii In a : paddl ingc; hollo' the ti In m iutcri W casili 1 MADERIA. 21 intre of the visibli iroyage affords bu est of the genera tion to the rule lea;" while occa ed a very unusua. ight happen to be ulay's History oj f to the credit ol }ard and in mucli s were had on re ascertain the im ' or the " Janet/ it" or with " tim- occasional occur- 3 those who, like in early period of J number of pro- I the external ap- nent for the fii-st ort of departure, ery monotonous, IS well as figura- that the various ider their proper 1 question, I am e. For although e was among so lere unquestion- od mustaches — id, should think al mustache) — *ly ill-regulated imong them of hall ever retain ;arded the un- ;enes of private s reprobated, it I here to men- it, without the )f any of them, '. may mention %hat, in the persons of a governor going to his scat of government, and his lady — of a British consul and his graceful daughter— of a Retired cavalry officer, now, alas ! no more — of on accomplished and Enthusiastic West Indian planter and proprietor — of a talented doc- tor, of fame as a writer on the important subject of tropical agricul- ture — and of some other gentlemen of varied talents and occupa- ions — ^I found as pleasant a party, for morning promenading and ievening amusements, as I ever expect to find for, or in the course of, voyage across the broad Atlantic. Here, as on all other occasions, found that a desire to please^ and to be pleased, was a valuable reventive of tedium and ennui. It was not till the forenoon of the seventh day after leaving ■Southampton that we came in sight of the island of Porto Santo, iwhich forms the most northerly of the group constituting the Madei- ras. I was peculiarly struck with two circumstances attending our oing so. In the first place, the precision and certainty of steam avigation properly conducted. On the day previous, I had been old by the first officer of the ship that we would see Porto Santo at particular hour of the following day, and the time of first seeing it as within a quarter of an hour of the time he had mentioned. Again, when first seen from the ship, the land of Porto Santo lay so ! clearly in front that it seemed that, had the vessel held straight on fher course, she would have struck nearly about midway on the northern coast of the island. While, on calculating the ship's posi- tion by the different chronometers, and by dead reckoning, there were not above two or three miles of difference between the extremes of the whole. This surely is as singular as it is satisfacfcry. But the next subject of my remark is one more certain to attract i the attention of other travellers by sea — it being the singular appear- i ance of land when first seen, and the refreshing and inspiriting sen- I sations which the sight inspires. When land is announced from the I mast-head, even to the most experienced eye all seems but one ex- panse of sea and sky, bathed, it may be, (as it was in the case I - write of,) in the rays of an almost tropical sun. Shortly a cloud, or ; uneven darkness, gathers on the boundary of the ocean, occasionally 1 moving, or seeming to move, or sometimes disappearing altogether. I In a few minutes the darkness becomes more dense, and after the i paddle-wheels have made a few hundred more revolutions, the seem- f ing cloud settles, and becomes permanent and defined. Heights and i hollows first appear ; then colours develop themselves; and at last j the traveller is voyaging with the first sight of foreign land in view. In my case, this first seen land was the island of Porto Santo, only interesting from its forming one of the Madeiras. Was Madeira known to the ancients ? is a question much more easily asked than answered; and one which, in my case, formed the 22 BARBADOES. Ill ! i II I Bubject of a good deal of amusing discussion among tlie pleasant party assembled on board the Great "Western on the voyage in ques- tion. The discussion, however, was carried on more for the sake of seeing what could be said on the affirmative of the question than for any other reason j for I fear that there is but little direct evidence of any kind tending to encourage the idea that this beautiful group, composed of Madeira, Porto Santo, and the Deserters, (query " de- serted,") however appositely situated for discovery by the Car- thaginians and other voyagers of ancient times, were revealed lo the world until their discovery by a long-named Portuguese in 1419. There is a story of their prior discovery by an Englishman named Mackin, and, were the position defensible, one's amor patrice might dispose him to maintain the truth of this statement. But the now universal conviction is, that it is wholly fabulous, and that Portugal has the honour of giving birth to the discoverer of these balmy islands — this Jlor d'oceanoj as the Portuguese themselves term the chief island of the group. If, however, the island of Madeira did not form the insula foriunata of the ancient world — if that honour is to be given either to one of the Canaries or to one of the Azores— - it surely was because Madeira was unknown. For, if half that has been written of it be true, there is much justice in the remark of the enthusiastic Coleridge, that " if the ancients had known Madeira, it would have been their pJusquam fortunata insula; and the blessed spirits of the Gentiles, afLr a millennium of probationary enjoyment in the Canaries, would have been translated thither to live for ever on nectar and oranges." The existence of a quarantine, on account of the then prevalence of cholera in England, prevented our landing at Madeira. Although, therefore, we lay in the Bay of Funchal for nearly twenty-four hours, I am prevented from saying more of this Island of the Blessed, than that it has a very picturesque as well as a very volcanic appearance; and that its capital, Funchal, although neither so fine nor so large as I was led by descriptive accounts to believe, it had a gay, and, from the roadstead, a clean appearance. On bidding adieu to Madeira, we again emerged into the open sea, and steamed our onward voyage across the broad Atlantic, on the course most probably pursued by the great Columbus and his gallant companions in 1491, towards the island of Barbadoes — the first of the West India group at which these steamers touch — and the one at which (for the present) the mails are interchanged. For at least two days before reaching Madeira, I had felt a sensible and gradual increase in the warmth of the atmosphere; and after leaving that " flower of the ocean," the increase of the temperature was still more sensible. The lines of William Meyrick aptly de- scribe the appearance : — ' i ' linii! )ng tlie pleasant voyage in ques- J for the sake of uestion than for direct evidence beautiful group, rs, (query " de- ry by the Car- revealed lo the uguese in 1419. iishman named or patrice might But the now id that Portugal of these balmy selves term the of Madeira did -if that honour Df the Azores— - f half that has e remark of the 3wn Madeira, it md the blessed nary enjoyment to live for ever hen prevalence 3ira. Although, mty-four hours, le Blessed, than nic appearance; le nor so large ad a gay, and, ; to the open sea, ; itlantic, on the and his gallant !S — the first of -and the one at I felt a sensible I ere; and after le temperature Tick aptly de- BARBADOES. 23 '• See at length tli' indulgent gales Gently fill our swelling sails. Swiftly, through the foamy sea, Shoots our vessel gallantly ; Still approaching, as she ilies, Wanner suns and brighter skies." After the usual experiences of observing such signs of the ap- roaching tropics as the gulf-weed, flying fish, sharks, and dolphins; nd after entering the tropics, and gradually divesting ourselves of ur European garments, and substituting dress of much more suita- Je texture and lightness, we reached Barbadoes on the eleventh day after sailing from Madeira. Land had been announced ere I reached the deck, about seven o'clock in the morning, and the island was darkly visible when I first saw it. A short time, however, sufficed to define its outline ; and in a few hours the ship came to anchor in Carlisle Bay, then filled with a number of vessels, including her Majesty's line-of-battle ship the Wellesley, then carrying the flag of Admiral Lord Dun- donald. This being my introduction to tropical scenery, and the view of the town of Bridgetown from Carlisle Bay being a scene of much picturesque beauty, I was greatly and agreeably struck by the view [which stretched itself before me on reaching the deck of the steam- ship. Carlisle Bay, Barbadoes, forms a curve of two miles or so, and the town of Bridgetown extends along it from point to point ; the white houses of which the town is composed bemg freely inter- mingled with gigantic palm-trees, and other trees of tropical produc- tion ; and the trees, flowers, and shrubs so totally different from, and at this distance so much more efiective and beautiful than those of Europe, made, from mere novelty as well as beauty, a powerful im- pression on my mind. Nor was the feeling lessened on reaching the shore. The luxuriant vigour of the trees and shrubs, many of which I had never previously seen, save as the stunted or sickly exotics of an English conservatory, with the variety of the black and brown faces of the population, kept constantly impressed upon my mind the fact that I was now in a very different region from the realms of the north. BARBADOES, The easternmost of the "Windward Islands, and the scene of Addi- son's touching story of " Inkle and Yarico," lies between 59° 50', and 60° 2', of west longitude, and 12° 56' and 13° 16' of north latitude. The length of the island from north to south is twenty- five miles, and its breadth from east to west is about fifteen or six- teen miles. Its superficial contents are estimated at somewhere 24 BARBADOES. it I lii! ti I ' about a hundred and seven thousand acres, and its present popula- tion at not less than a hundred and forty thousand — a population per acre larger, and more dense, than is to be found in any other portion of th-- known globe, not even excepting China. For reasons which will afterwards appear, this density of population has opera- ted very favourably in, partially at least, protecting Barbadoes from the effects of the depreciating influences under which the rest of the British colonies in the West Indies have of late years been so severely suffering. Although my stay in Barbadoes was short, I was enabled, through the kindness of a fellow-passenger — already referred to, himself a larg*^ proprietor in the island, and one generally known, particularly in connf .iion vvith his writings on the important subject of tropical agriculture — and of other friends, to see much of the island, and to much advantage. Of the many scenes I visited, that from Hackle- stone Cliff is the one which most impressed me, and of which I feel it expedient to make piominent mention here. Although thia cliff, (which is nearly the highest elevation in the island) is not above eleven hundred feet in height, it commands one of the most beau- tiful panoramic views, both landward and seaward, which it is possi- ble for the mind to conceive. Below the cliff, that part of the island denominated Scotland (from a supposed miniature resemblance to the land of mountain and flood) stretches before the eye. On the right is a long line of sea-coast, and immediately in front lies a tro- pical valley of exceeding loveliness. It is possible that it was be- cause my visit to Hacklestone Cliff, and the scene of enchantment that thence opened up to my view, formed my introduction, so to speak, to the more inland scenery of the tropics; and because I visi- ted it in the society of four valued fellow-voyagers, and under the guidance of a kind friend, a resident proprietor of the island, that the loveliness of the view rises upon my mind many months afterwards — " While the breeze of England now Flings rose-scents on my aching brow," with a freshness of pleasurable sensation which does not attend the recall of other scenes, of even greater magnificence and grandeur. Such, however, is the fact ; and therefore it is that I recall and record the scene with a lingering' pleasure, and that I recommend to every visitor to Little England, (as Barbadoes is oft-times called,) not to leave that beauteous island without paying a visit to Hacklestone Cliff. If the day },o as fine as that I enjoyed, and he or she be as fortunate in fellow-voyagers and a cicerone a« I was, the result will bo a harvest of heartfelt pleasure and satis- faction. I The alread friends the ho cies of West : unautl ^and an jtles" itakcn .'record :^descri{ |as I w )| estate i The I genera iaucien las it is tplant 1 Iby Col Jof froi ^thickn( I From 1 canes 1 Jlarly, I i water, IWest] into th cess, tc in copj the sue pan or [these and wl flation ] Iwhcncc istand i passes \ sale. : Sucl |sugar, iwhich seed, b before BARBADOES. 25 jrcsent popula- [ — a population 1 in any other I. For reasons tion has opera- krbadoes from the rest of the seen so severely labled, through i to, himself a vn, particularly ject of tropical I island, and to t from Hackle- of which I feel ough thia cliff, ) is not above the most beau- hich it is possi- ,rt of the island reseinblance to eye. On the Tont lies a tro- ;hat it was be- f enchantment eduction, so to because I visi- and under the the island, that many months not attend the and grandeur. at I recall and fc I recommend 1 is oft-times paying a visit I enjoyed, and cicerone an I urc and siitis- i There too it was, and in the hospitable mansion of the gentleman already referred to, that myself, and the English and Scotch friends who accompanied me, were for the first time introduced to the hospitalities of the West Indies, and to the abundant excellen- cies of a breakfast and dinner, kc, in the mansion of an extensive "West India planter. But as I have rather an abhorrence of the unauthorized introduction of private scenes into incidenls of travel, Jand am compelled to acknowledge that the hospitalities of " But- jtles " and of " Clayberry " were too good and too recherche to bo |taken as fair specimens of West Indian establishments, — I simply |record the fact as above stated, and proceed to give a brief popu In i |description of the processes of sugar-growing and sugar-making, |as I witnessed them for the first time in this island, and on the Restate of Drakeshall. ] The origin of the name, and the history of the sugar cane, is I generally given as follows : The name sugar is derived from its I ancient name of saccharum, which, being corrupted into suci'a, or las it is in Spanish agucar, gives our word sugar. Originally the ]plant was found in Asia, and it was introduced into the West Indies ;by Columbus and his followers. In appearance, it is a jointed reed lof from six to twelve, or even fifteen feet high, and of various thicknesses, of which an average may be said to be two inches. I From the expressed juice of this reed is the sugar derived, the I canes being passed through rollers, placed sometimes perpendicu- ilarly, but more frequently horizontally, and driven either by steam, [water, horse, or mule power, but much more frequently, in the West Indies, by a windmill. The expressed juice being run down into the boiling-house, it is there — after undergoing a certain pro- cess, to temper and cleanse it — subjected to processes of skimming in coppers, or other pans, the heat being gradually increased, in the successive pans, until it reaches the boiling point in the last pan or boiler called in the English colonies, " The Tcache." By [these operations the juice is cleansed, and the water evaporated ; land when the sugar begins to granulate, or rather when the granu- llation has proceeded a sufiicicnt length, it is poured into coolers — jwhence it is removed into hogsheads, in which it is allowed to Istand for at least fourteen days or three weeks, to allow the nio- |lasscs to run out of it : after ad which it is ready for shipment and isale. * Such is a very general view of the process of making Muscovado |sugar, as it is usually proctisjd m the West Indian Islands : To |which I have only to add, tl at th"^ canes are propagated, not from jsecd, but from the top of the old plant, which top is struck off [before cutting down the cane to remove it to the mill; and that 3 2G ST. LUCIA. the whole process is a much simpler, as well as a much cleaner proceeding, than I had anticipated. In Barbadoes, besides the general interest to be found in the really excellent society of the island, there are many objects worthy of a visit, and which will gratify the traveller who has reasonably good introductions, and time to spare. Among these may be men- tioned Codrington College, situated on the confines or borders of the miniature Scotland — a stone building of no great pretensions to architectural beauty, but capable of accommodating nearly one hundred students, although now attended only by a much smaller number; — a burning spring, which emits sulphuretted hydrogen gas, that ignites on being brought into contact with fire ; — and an extraordinary banyan tree. Of the two last, however, I can only speak from the report of others. But I saw enough of Little Eng- land, and of its hospitable inhabitants, during my too brief stay, to make me wish that stay had been longer, and to satisfy me that even a long residence would not exhaust the many sources of interest which the island displays. CHAPTER III. " Bcaiitiful Islands ! brief the time I dwelt beneath your awful clime; Yet oft I see, in noonday dream, Your glorious stars with lunar beam; And oft before my sight arise Y'our sky-lilie seas — uud sea-lilie skies." llEMUY Nelson Coleridge. It was with much regret, and many farewells, that I parted with my friends at Barbadoes, and also with certain of my fellow- voyagers who had jciurneyed with me so far, and joined the steam- ship to proceed onward through the Windward and Leeward islands. But sad would have been the heart, and desponding the disposition, that would not have revelled in the beauty of the scene, or felt many a thrill of ecstasy, on sailing through the sum- mer sea. After leaving Barbadoes, a sail of some ten or eleven hours biings the steamer to the island of ST. LUCIA, Situated in north latitude 30°14', and west longitude 29°, about twenty-three miles long by eleven broad, and containing a popula- tion of about 20,000 inhabitants. TROPICAL NIGHTS. 27 much cleaner 3 found in the objects worthy las reasonably e may be men- 3 or borders of at pretensions ng nearly one much smaller tted hydrogen fire ; — and an rer, I can only of Little Eng- too brief stay, satisfy me that iny sources of ERIDQE. that I parted of my fellow- ned the steam- and Leeward lesponding the beauty of the 'ough the sum- • eleven hours I ide 29°, about ning a popula- The island of St. Lucia is volcanic and mountainous, and, as seen from the sea, the aspect of its craggy summits is exceedingly picturesque. Particularly is it so when viewed under the influences of a tropical moonlight. Would that I were able, without exciting extravagant and ill-defined expectations, to give the reader a sufii- ciently graphic idea of the soft radiance and splendour of a fine night in the tropics. A bright moonlight night is everywhere delightful. Many have been the moon and starlight nights I have witnessed and enjoyed on the hills, amidst the glens, and, more than all, among or on the lakes of our own unrivalled northern land. But a moonlight night within the tropics exceeds, in brilliance and in beauty, a moonlight night anywhere else. There is a soft- ness as well as a splendour about it, which is peculiar to itself; a mellow brilliancy, which almost transcends description. Indeed, as it was in this part of my journeyings that my attention began to be attracted by the loveliness of the tropical nights, this seems the proper place for recording my impressions regarding them. Whether on land or at sea, the scenery of the tropics on a moon- light night is singularly beautiful ; to my taste, infinitely more so than it is by day. On land, the brilliancy of the moon and stars is such that every leaf, and tree, and flower, seems bathed in floods of liquid light : a light so clear, and at the same time so mellow, and so soft, that the outline of the hills and other objects appear to be defined, almost with greater dis'mctness than when they are viewed by day. At sea, particularly with such hill- crowned islands as St. Lucia, Martinique, Dominica, Montserrat, or St. Kitt's, &c., in near view, the scene is one still more lovely. The vast unfathomable sea, fit symbol of eternity, lying around you, either sunk in deep repose, or upheaving its vexed waves — in the one case a mirror for a thousand starry worlds, in the other a sparkling ocean of fire — the summits of the land illuminated and surrounded by a kind of halo : the scene has with it all the beauty of L northern moonlight night, and many beauties besides, pecu- liar to itself. A single fact will best illustrate the clearness of the atmosphere, and the greater pro?iiinencc und brilliancy of the stars consequent thereupon. Oft when in Ai^tigua, and also in the oHici- islands of the West Indian seas, have I observed and called attention to the fact, tliat, in certain positions of the planet Venus, she was seen under a crescent form like a small moon, and emit- ting or transmitting, in the absence of the moon herself, a quantity of light which made her by no means an insufficient substitute. Leaving St. Lucia, after landing and taking on board the mails, the steamer proceeds to the romantic island of 28 MARTINIQUE. 'm ' Ml ■il III! MARTINIQUE, Now, since she has lost Ilispaniola, the chief possession of France in the West Indies, and certainly one of the most beautiful and roman- tic Islands of the West India group. Martinique is situated in about west longitude 61°, and north latitude 14° 20', and contains a population exceeding one hundred thousand inhabitants. The ex- treme length of the island is about forty miles, and its average breadth about ten, embracing a superficies of two hundred and nine- ty-one square miles. The approach to the island from the south is exceedingly striking. Among the first objects seen is the remark- able Diamond Hock, which stands detached from the rest of the land, and is about five hundred and eighty feet high, and of which a very gallant story is told as to the exploit of a Captain Morris, of the English navy, during the last war between England and France, in hoisting to, and mounting on, the summit of this natural fortress, a thirty-two pounder, and therewith doing sad damage to the works of the enemy. The general aspect of Martinique is singularly rugged. The mountains, though nrc so high as those of Dominica, are higher than those of St. Lucia, and they present a remarkably splintered and volcanic appearance. In looking at them, I was not unfrequent- ly reminded of a story I had heard of a member of the British House of Commons, who, wishing to give a graphic idea of the appearance of Martinique, squeezed a sheet of paper strongly up in his huDd, and Laving thus made it all heights and hollows, laid it down on the table, as showing generally to his hearers the thunder- splintered pinnacles and deep glens of this beautiful isle. The town of St. Pierre, the capital of the island, and the place at which the British steamers land their mails, is a pretty, clean- looking place, of which the natives of the island are not a little vain. As contrasted with some other towns in the West India islands, such as Bridgetown in Barbadoes, St. John's in Antigua, or Basseterre in St. Kitt's, St. Pierre in Martinique has certainly a superior appear- ance of permanency, residence and comfort. It boasts too of a thea- tre, and also of sundry restaurants of small dimensions ; and it re- joices for the present in a very beautiful row of tamarind trees, which grace tlie beach ; and in a streamlet of water running down the centre of the principal street, and imparting at least the sem- blance of coolness. On the whole, the visitor will be much pleased with St. Pierre, and its peculiarly French aspect, particularly as he cannot fail, in the course of his visit, to remark the truth of an ob- servation I have somewhere met with, viz. — that the coloured females of this island excel in grace and beauty the ladies of the same com- plexion to bo found in most of the other islands, and particularly DOMINICA. 29 Dn of France in iful and roman- tuated in about and contains a ants. The ex- md its average idred and nine- im the south is is the remark- est of the land, if which a very Morris, of the and France, in tural fortress, a to the works of rugged. The ica, are higher :ably splintered not unfrequent- of the British lie idea of the strongly up in hollows, laid it rs the thunder- Isle. , and the place I pr*.cty, clean- ot a little vain, ia islands, such r Basseterre in uperior appear- s too of a thca- ns ; and it re- ;umarind trees, running down least the sem- 3 much pleased tioularly as he ;ruth of an ob- )loured females the same com- nd particularly those in the possession of England. A similar remark is found to apply to the women of colour in the Spanish and Danish islands; so that it would really seem, as observed by Coleridge, that " the French and Spanish," and I would add the Danish " blood, seems to unite more kindly and perfectly with the negro than does our British stuff." The favourite objects of purchase by tourists at Martinique, are the eau-de*cologne, manufactured in the island, and which is really excellent ; and also sundry liqueurs of varied excellence and varied taste, compounded from native fruits and flowers, and meant to imi- tate the noycau atracoa, &c., of European fame. At the time of the writer's visit in 1849, Martinique was in a very depressed condition. The prospects of the sugar crop were un- favourable, and universal were the complaints of the impossibility of getting the negroes, now free, to work at any reasonable amount or rate of wages. Indeed, great and reasonable fears were entertained i, that half of the present year's crop might be lost, through the diflS- culty of getting it off the ground and forwarded to the mill-house. Nor were the feelings of the planters at that time alleviated by much ; hope of compensation from the home government, on account of the heavy losses they had sustained by the emancipation of their slaves, or to aid them in adventuring on the new course of culture which ithat philanthropic measure had rendered necessary. So far as I 'could judge, the general opinion seemed to be, that, if compensation ^ were awarded at all, it would only be of a nominal kind — a sound of h compensation without the substance of it ; and in the pittance which f j has since been awarded by France to her colonists, in consideration of their loss by the liberation of their slaves, this opinion has been ^1 signally and suflBciently vindicated. I After leaving Martinique and its cloud-capt summits, the steamer I proceeds to the British island of DOMINICA, Situated about north latitude 15° 25', and west longitude Gl° 15'. I This island is twenty-eight miles long by about sixteen broad, and ■ contains a superficial area of 13G,43G acres. The general character of the scenery is extremely mountainous, rugged and broken, and at its highest point it reaches the elevation of no less than five thousand three hundred feet. The approach to Dominica from the south is, like the approach to Martinique, exceedingly interesting and inspi- riting. On the occasion of which this is a narrative — on leaving St. Pierre and while coasting along the shores of Martinique — the day was warm and beautiful, the sea a summer one, and the air tropically . clear. The ship was for a time attended by a shoal of porpoises, 8* so GUADALOUPE. IfHil'l !:i-i!iiii I' ! i : , -i" lilill! IN which, tumbling and rolling along with their pig-like motions, called to the remembrance Horace's description of the sea-god, — '• Omne qiium Prote is pecws egit altos Viscre montcs." Ere you lose sight of Martinique, Dominica becomes clearly visible ; and, on nearer approach, the sides of the mountains which crest and adorn it are seen to be clothed to their very summits with shrubs and trees ; while glens open up to view, (also clothed with shrubs and trees of various hues,) of such depth that the tye is unable to pene- trate to the bottom of their recesses. At first it is impossible to dis- tinguish the different kinds of trees and shrubs, that so numerously and so luxuriantly clothe both the heights and the hollows. But a few more revolutions of the rapidly moving paddles, and a few more heavings of the noble ship as she cleaves the calm but swelling sea in her oiiward course, and the deep green of the cedar or the man- grove, the feathery leaves of the tamarind and the ilex ; the light velvety green of the sugar-cane, and the brilliant hues of the " Bar- badoes pride," become easily distinguishable, and create an impression on the mind that you are now at last approaching the " garden of the tropics." The town of Roseau, at which the steamer lands her mails, is a tolerably well-built town for a West India one ; but, like most of the towns in the English or French possessions in the West Indies, it bears too many marks of desertion and decay. It is, however, proper here to add, as regards Martinique, Dominica, Antigua, St. Kitt's, &c., that such appearances are greatly aided by, and oft-times confounded with, the appearances produced by the earthquake of 1843, or by the hurricane of 1848, which devastated these islands to a truly appalling extent. In the centre of the mountains of Dominica, and about ten miles from Roseau, there is a fresh-water lake of some extent. The island also exhibits traces of volcanoes now extinct, or at least now silent ; and I was assured, by intelligent residents, that these and other ob- jects would amply repay a visit. My time, however, did not admit of the indulgence. So, after trafficking, as well as some of the other passengers, in the monstrosities, such as gigantic frogs stuffed and varnished, mountain pigs stuffed, &c., which formed the staple of trade with the Dominica boatmen, I proceeded onward with the steamer to GUADALOUPE, A French possession, situated at about C2° west longitude, and 16" 20' north latitude — sixty miles long by twenty-four broad. Properly speaking, Guadaloupe consists of two islands close together, of which iiie chi which i division of Gua( (after t cultivat colony The hill, cal height one of t none o: should of then ▼olcani( Lucia, ] A palpa marks c Boilofl powder ginous above s whence Ibr the {roup, 1 as bec( ^ the I lerised r-betw nee. |he Sou: 4-on wl fcieut t ishcs w< 4eck of Barbad( If th fts to thi a very i them — 1 written Geologii From |>lished 'le voyi VOLCANIC PHENOMENA. 31 motions, called d,- clearly visible; ?hich crest and rith shrubs and ith shrubs and mable to pene- ipossible to dis- so numerously oUows. But a md a few more »ut swelling sea lar or the man- ilex; the light s of the " Bar- e an impression " garden of the lands her mails, but, like most lie West Indies, It is, however, a, Antigua, St. r, and oft-times earthquake of these islands to ibout ten miles it. The island ast now silent ; and other ob- did not admit ne of the other )gs stuffed and the staple of ward with the Itude, and 16" road. Properly 3ther, of which ^e chief is the eastern divisioL^ or " Grande Terro," the town of which is called Port-a-Pitre, or St. I ouis ; the town in the western division being called Bassaterre ; — while, in the immediate vicinity of Guadaloupe, there are three very small islands called the Saintes, (after the town of Saintes in France,) all of which are inhabited and cultivated, and regarded as included within the limits of the French colony of Guadaloupe. The chief object of interest in Guadaloupe is its singular volcanic hill, called La Souflfriere, or Sulphur Hill, whose summit reaches a height of five thousand five hundred feet. But, indeed, almost every dne of the Caribbee Islands may boast of its sulphur hill. Although none of them at present have (and God forbid that any of them should ever have) volcanoes in active operation, there are few or none of them that do not bear some traces either of volcanic origin or of volcanic eifects. These appearances are particularly observable in St. Lucia, Martinique, and Guadaloupe. All these three islands are of Ik palpably different formation from Barbadoes. St. Lucia boars aaarks of a volcanic nature in her boiling ponds, &c. ; — the mountain BOil of Martinique is largely composed of pumice, either in lumps or |K)wder ; and this pumice is oft-times found intermixed with a ferru- ginous sand, such as is generally seen about volcanoes ; — while, as above stated, Guadaloupe has its Souffriere, or sulphur hill, from whence large quantities of brimstone are daily brought by the negroes 4)r the purpose of sale. Thus, almost all the islands of the Carib froup, betray evidences of volcanic character. In some, the volcano as become extinct, and is no longer to be traced. But in others, as In the Souffriere of Guadaloupe, there are decided and well-charac- terised craters, which are occasionally active, throwing out, on such iir-between occasions, ashes, scoriae, and lava, to a very great dis- pnce. Thus, there is an authentic account given of an eruption from le Souffriere of the island of St. Vincent, on the 1st of May, 1812 -on which occasion the mountain discharged ashes in quantities suf- Icient to darken the air all around the island ; while some of these ishcs were sent up so high, and blown so fur, that they fell on the 4cck of a vessel three hundred miles to the westward of the island of Barbadoes. If the reader of this book wishes farther to prosecute his inquiry as to these sulphur hills of the West India Archipelago, he will find a very interesting account of one of the most extraordinary among ^em — the one which exists in the romantic island of Montserrat — written by Dr. Nugent, and published in the Transactions of the Geological Society. From Guadaloupe to Antigua, the sail, in a steam vessel, is accom- plished in a few hours. • On the occasion of my visit, this portion of "'lo voyage was the only stormy part of it — a fact which is impressed m ANTIGUA. amusing incident. I J r i ;i; ill , lie,: 11 ,1 .11 111 upon my mind by a somewhr from England, one of my fellow-passengers had been a clergyman o; the Jhurch of England, who, with his wife and family, was proceed ing to enter on his duties as chaplain to one of the embassies. Al though the weather had been exceedingly fine, and the sea by nf means rough, this excellent and reverend gentleman had suflferct most severely from the demon of sea-sickness, from which he wa- then only beginning to recover. At Dominica we had taten ic another gentleman of the cloth — a dignitary of the Church, in the person of the Right lleverend Bishop of Antigua, (the able aii'i excellent Dr. Davis ;) and when about to leave the vessel at Englist Harbour, Antigua, I was — in the midst of my regrets at. parting witl the many kind friends on board — amused by accidentally overhear ing a conversation between two sailors, one of whom ascribed the then boisterous state of the weather to this increase in our comple- ment of parsons ; and, when reminded that it was against his theorj of Neptune's hostility to the Church, that, notwithstanding our havinn had a parson on board all the way from England, the weather hail been peculiarly fine, and the sea quiescent ; the immediate answer was to the effect, that the sea-god had revenged heroclf by personal!} visiting the llev. Mr. P with an unusual amount of sea-sickness, A small matter will often change the current of thought, and I was not sorry to take advantage even of this to divert my mind from the gloomy reflections that were crowding upon it, as on a somewhat darls and cloudy midnight hour, I made my solitary first landing on the island of Antigua. I tried, therefore, to speculate upon the origin of so absurd a superstition ; and I also reflected upon the somewhat singular combination of circumstaaces which in the present instance seemed to give somewhat of countenance to it : and, after shaking hands v/ith the friends who had risen to see me disembark, I landed, in the earliest grey dawn of a stormy tropical morning, at English Harbour in the island of ANTIGUA, Situated in north latitude 17° 3', and west longitude 62° 7'. This island is divided into six parishes, is about eighteen miles long b}' fifteen broad, and contains a population of about forty thousand inhabitants, of whom upwards of thirty thousand are negroes, and above five thousand coloured persons, the rest of the population being white. Antigua enjoys the distinction of being the seat of govern- ment of the Leeward Islands. The capital of the island is the towu of St. John's, but the royal mail steam-packets do not land their mails or passengers there — chiefly, I believe, because there is not Bufficient depth of water on or over the bar which lies at the entrance M thQ^ J|ohn's, ind ma ifide of the tra^ For, whi ilie hopi Ifuch ac( pe. : i drive I Readi fend, wl report, { are surr fver me jorget j^ irevailii I sto( ^ le dim lo the t( Butt Ion, in ine of 1 )und, ] larrow- lowly ii ] Jut wit] i he larg - rithin i I quadroi 1 ntrance ressels 1 [reat B St. J( Country. ^arly mc mfamili In the \ lagnific >art of tarracki ine obje it Engli ittends 1 lud pasi ANTIGUA. 33 uring the voyagf 1 a clergyman o: ily, was proceed embassies. Al d the sea by n( lan had suflFercc m which he wa; re had taken h J Church, in the a, (the able am ressel at Englisl s at, parting witl mtally overhear' )m ascribed the e in our comple- gainst his theorj iding our having the weather had imediate answer elf by personallj t of sea-sickness, >ught, and I was y mind from the 1 somewhat dart landing on the upon the origin >n the somewhat present instance d, after shaking abark, I landed, ling, at English e 62° r. This I miles long b) forty thousand re negroes, and )opulation being seat of govern- and is the town not land their ise there is not i at the entrance ii the very beautiful, admirably protected, and capacious bay of St. John's, to enable these steamships to get safely in. The passengers ipid mails arc accordingly landed at English Harbour, on the east #de of the island, which involves a drive of some twelve miles ere the traveller can reach any comfortable resting-place for the night. For, whatever the Guide Books say, it were only to mislead to induce ^e hope of obtaining, in the existing hostelry at English Harbour, {inch accommodation as an English traveller would consider comfort- ible. But it is impossible to remember with any feeling of regret, f drive so beautiful. I Reader, have you ever felt the sensation of being alone in a foreign fend, where all is new to you, all unknown, save through reading or report, and you yourself unknown to any of the many by whom you are surrounded ? The feeling of isolation which for a moment came fver me, when I found myself so situated, is one I can scarcely ever rget J and if the reader can realise it, he or she will appreciate the irevailing sensation which, for a short time at least, oppressed me, I stood alone in the dockyard at English Harbour, Antigua, in e dim light of earliest dawn, before starting on my solitary drive the town of St. John's. But there were many things to interest, and to occupy the atten- in, in the scene which surrounded me. English Harbour forms |ne of the most compact, commodious, and secure harbours to be und, probably, in the whole world. The entrance is extremely arrow — so narrow that, as the steam-ship Great Western entered lowly in, it seemed as if her bulk filled the neck of the harbour. $ut within, the natural basin is deep and capacious ; so deep that be largest line-of-battle ship of the British navy may be moored rithin it, and so capacious as to afford accommodation for a large quadron. While, being guarded by a chain across the narrow ntrance, and commanded by a fort on the adjacent hill, merchant essels lying in it are protected from the assaults of any enemy that reat Britain could have to fear. The ride from English Harbour St. John's, the capital of the island, is through a very interesting ountry. Seen as I saw it, under the beams of a tropical sun, in larly morning, and with the dew upon the leaves, and the to me yet nfamiliar flowers, I thought it singularly beautiful. At some risings m the way, nearly the whole island is visible at once, and several agnificent panoramic vitws are thus obtained ; while, for the greater art of the ride, the fortifications on the " Bidgc," on which the arracks for the white troops stand, form a frowning as well as a ne object in the view. The traveller is conveyed from the steamer t English Harbour by a phaeton or omnibus, one or other of which ttends the arrival and departure of the steamers to convey the mails nd passengers to and from the town of St. John's. The mode of 34 ANTIGUA. iiii conveyance is comfortable, and the fare of two dollars is not unreason ably high, as are but too many of the charges for the means of pro- gression or locomotion in the West India colonies. It must, I presume, always be with feelings of considerable depression that the traveller, especially when labouring under 2 weakened frame, finds himself entirely alone, without a kno^v^ face within his reach, and in a foreign country. I confess that despite of all efforts to arouse myself, my feelings were of tha: sort, as, after bidding farewell to my kind friends and fellow-pas sengers on board the steamship, and expressing a hope, more thai an expectation, that we might meet again, and watching the vessc. as she renewed her voyage, and, steaming out of the harbour, again careered over the waste of waters, I took tpy solitary seat in tk caliche which was to convey me to the town of St. John's, Antigua The advancing daylight, and the real beauty of the drive, soon, how ever, dissipated such feelings; and I had nearly regained my wonted elasticity of spirits, when I arrived at the inn or lodging-house (tlit latter term most fully describes all the " hotels " — so-called — in the West Indies) which I, at the time, thought was to be my temporan abode for a period of a month or two. But I also confess that it re quired all my fortitude to withstand the reaction caused by nij reception, and the place itself. For duty compels me to record tlu fact, for the benefit of subsequent tourists, particularly of invalic ones, that the ideas of what is included in the English term " com fort " must be limited indeed, if they be gratified by the comforti found in the hotel of St. John's ; and it is with some regret that I record thi° fact, seeing that, during my stay, the desire to contributt to my convenience was manifested in many ways, and only failed in being successful through the inherent deficiencies of the establish ment, for which there is not that encouragement which can alone create or sustain the means of comfort. Fortunately, however, mj stay in the hotel of St. John's was of brief duration. Through the unexpected kindness of the Governor-general of the Leeward Is- lands, whose seat of government is in Antigua, and to whom I had been fortunate enough to bring letters from near and dear friends, I was, after a stay of a week in the hotel, enabled to take up my quar- ters in Government House ; and it was during a sojourn of sever weeks there, and in the country-houses of Antiguan friends, whose kindness will never be forgotten while memory lasts, (and whose names I only refrain from recording for the reason already mention- ed when writing of my fellow-voyagers,) that I saw the scenes, and acquired the infor jaation, in reference to matters connected with this island of Antigua, v^hich I now purpose to record in the immediatclj succeeding pages. But, before leaving the subject of lodging-houses or hotels in the iTest I Itond-bo iCarch lingemc of a fri sroided. liid a fe li comfo] e who rnishe fore )u; an all ca For lost in roup. )olishe( )lonial ptem, I ^hcn tl ^st nigh Anti^ roperty eemen- ren by ith the: endous, lUtigua ighly ii )inion s t' hearii ad hiflu rentices ad no Dncurre( le deep( stead ( iscallec nd expe rill not, hich th jflects g 1st of J early th 1 the ho ANTIGUA. 8(^ ; is not unreason ae means of pro- of considerable )Ouring under a ithout a knovt I confess that gs were of tba; 1 and fellow-pas bope, more that tcbing the vessc! le harbour, again litary seat in tk John's, Antigua drive, soon, ho^ ained my wontd dging-bouse (tlit so-called — in tlit be my temporan jonfess that it r& I caused by raj me to record tk ularly of invalit lish term " com by the comfort; Qe regret that I sire to contribute ad only failed it of the establish- which can alont ly, however, nij Through the the Leeward Is to whom I had I dear friends, I ake up my quar sojourn of sevei ,n friends, whose ists, (and whose already mention' the scenes, and inected with this the immediatclj or hotels in the Vest Indies — and as this work is in some measure designed as a liand-book and guide for European invalids, visiting tiiese islands in iearch of health — it is material to observe that, by a little pre-ar- ningement, which can easily be eifectcd through the instrumentality of a friend in the island, all chance of serious discomfort may be l^eoided. IJy a little preparation on the part' of the hotel-keeper, and a few additions on the part of the visitor, the hotel may be made jI comfortable abode enough, not merely for a casual visitor, but for -^e who meditates a stay of a long duration. Besides, comfortable rnished lodgings can generally be secured by writing to a friend, fore you arrive, to secure them, and have them in readiness for 11 ; and this course I would strongly advise the invalid to adopt, all cases in which it is practicable^for him or her to do so. For many reasons Antigua is, to the philanthropist, one of the ost interesting of the numerous islands forming the West India oup. It was there that slavery may be said to have been first )olished in the British West Indian possessions, inasmuch as the blonial Legislature of Antigua at once rejected the apprenticeship stem, and at once adopted entire emancipation. This was in 1834. hen the clock began to strike the hour of twelve o'clock on the st night in the month of July 1834, the thirty thousand negroes Antigua were all slaves — slaves in every sense of the word — the operty of others. When it had ceased to sound, they were all eemen — freemen under every meaning of that term — unfettered jen by the apprenticeship, and at liberty to do what they chose ith themselves and their powers of labour. Surely this was a stu- endous, and therefore an interesting change. During my stay in lUtigua I had many conversations on the subject, and heard many ighly interesting details regarding it, from men of all shades of )inion as well as of colour. In particular, I enjoyed the privilege f hearing, from his own mouth, the views and opinions of the able ad hifluential gentleman who moved the bill for rejecting the ap- renticeship system, and adopting immediate emancipation : and all, ad no one more emphatically than the talented Dr. himself, 3ncurred in describing the scene as calculated to excite feelings of le deepest interest. That the adoption of immediate emancipation, istead of taking advantage of the intermediate measure, called or liscalled the apprenticeship system, was a matter purely of policy nd expediency, unconnected with feelings of morality or of religion, rill not, it is presumed, be denied by any one. But the manner in rhich the boon was received by the negro population unquestionably jflccts great credit on them, or on their advisers and leaders. The 1st of July 1834 was a Thursday, and the evening of that day saw early the whole grown-up negro population of the island of Antigua 1 the houses of prayer, engaged in religious exercises, chiefly of praise 86 ANTIGUA. and thanksgiving. In the "Wesleyan mooting-houso, in the town of St. John's, when the bell of the cathedral began to toll the hour of midnight — the hour that was to set them free — the whole audience sank on their knees, and continued thus to receive the blessed boon of freedom, until the last note had been tolled ; when they rose to express their gratitude to God, and their rejoicings to each other, Few, whatever may be their views on the general question of eman- cipation, will deny either the interest or the impressiveness of such a scene. The coming day, Friday, was also devoted to religious ex- ercises throughout the greater part of the island ; as also was Satur- August 1834 was the first day on which the negro papulation of any day; and, as a matter of course, Sunday; — so that Monday the 4th of part of the British colonial possessions in the West Indies worked as freemen — entirely and finally emancipated. It argues well for the negroes and their religious instructors, that it is generally conceded by the planters in the island of Antigua, that on no previous occa- sion had the workers on their different estates turned out better than they did, when thus, for the first time, called upon to labour at their occupation without the dread of the lash, in the event of their now refusing so to do. In the numerous discussions in the British legislature and else- where, Antigua is generally represented as better supplied with the means of labour than the rest of our West India colonies — Barba- does alone excepted : and that circumstance is usually referred to in explanation of the fact that this island has suflfered less under, or rather struggled more successfully against, the depressing influences against which the West India planters have of late years had to con- tend. This is, however, only in part correct. That Antigua has not suflfered quite so much as some of the other English colonies have done, from the operation of the Sugar Dnties' Act of 1846, has been as much owing to the fact that the es '*'^s in that island are owned by a body of enlightened proprietors aTid agriculturists, many of whom are resident in the colony, as to any other cause ; and that, even still, there is a deficiency of labour, is shown by many circum- stances, of which the late introduction of a large body of Portuguese labourers is only one. In point of fact, with the single exception of Barbadoes, none of the British Colonies in the West Indies are suffi- ciently supplied with labourers ; and this is a truth which is constantlj? lost sight of by those who, despite the evidence of actual experience, still meet the claims of the West India proprietors with the plea that " free labour is as cheap as slave labour." The eflfect of emancipa- tion obviously and necessarily, though perhaps not quite immediately, was greatly to lessen the number of field labourers. It lessened their number by withdrawing from agriculture and from sugar-mak- ^ iug a number of persons, who, resorting to the towns and villages, s< formed artisan! on the both plantin light w \ sirable, I of the '. facture jurious will ha^ eluding tion to British with so the ope the etfe I very qu tion an( cheap a To r group. I Anti, I West Ii and the most pi island t in the \ plied w: than I ; the veri the Bri know tl have, h none of name o plains, same ef the sea- many s The the we times a the app right ai ANTIGUA. 37 in the town of j oil the hour of whole audience ic blessed boon a they rose to to each other, sstion of eman- iveness of such to religious es- also was Satur- pulation of any mday the 4th of udies worked as les well for the erally conceded previous occa- out better than ) labour at their Qt of their now ilature and else- ipplied with the )lonies — Barba- y referred to in 1 less under, or ssing influences jars had to con- t Antigua has nglish colonies ct of 1846, has that island are iulturists, many ause ; and that, 7 many circum- r of Portuguese jle exception of Indies are suffi- eh is constantly ual experience, h the plea that t of emancipa- e immediately, . It lessened om sugar-mak- \ and villages, fermcd there a kind of intermediate clas? of pmall shopkeepers and artisans or tradesmen. And it also lessened the amount of labourers on the crops, by removing from field labour numbers of the young of both sexes, whose aid had been previously available at times of planting, hoeing, or crop time, and generally for all departments of light work. That such changes were, in certain points of view, de- sirable, is not disputed. But the elect they had on the operations of the British planter, in the rearing of sugar canes, and in the manu- facture of sugar and of rum, must, it is obvious, have been very in- jurious ; and, without" here entering at large into a question which I will have an opportunity of discussing at greater length in the con- cluding chapter of this volume, i would here draw the reader's atten- tion to the consideration, that it would only have been fair to tho British West India planters, that care had been taken to supply them with some substitute for the " po«yer" withdrawn from them under the operation of the Act of Emancipation, he/ore exposing them to the eifects that have arisen from acting on a belief in the truth of tho very questionable dictum that — in so far at least as tropical cultiva- tion and manufactures are concerned — the labour of freemen is as cheap and as eflFective as is the labour of slaves. To return, however, to the metropolitan island of the Leeward group. Antigua, though certainly not one of the most romantic of the West India islands, possesses many scenes of exceedmg loveliness, and the two months I passed within its limits are classed among the most pleasing of my treasures of memory. Subject, as 1 knew the island to be, to long-continued droughts, and reading, as I had done in the works of Coleridge and others, of its being very scantily sup- plied with springs, I bad prepared myself for a much more arid spot than I found it to be. " Healthful withal, but dry and adust," wa.s the verdict of anticipation that I had passed on this the largest of the British Leeward Islands ; and, from conversations with others, I know that this is a very general impression regarding Antigua. I have, however, the pleasing oifico of contradicting it. Although none of the hills of Antigua are high enough to be entitled to the name of mountains, they rise so abruptly from the sea and from the plains, as to give them an appearance of altitude which produces the same efiect as if they were of greater height; and among the hills on the sea-coast, on the south-west of the island, there are to be found many scenes of great beauty, if not of exceeding grandeur. The town of St. John's — the capital of Antigua — is situated on the west or south-west of the island, and contains, I was several times assured, about ten thousand inhabitants, although it has not the appearance of (*o large a population. The streets are broad, and at right angles with each other ; and when the mind of a European gets S8 ANTIGUA. (l! ill familiarised with the caravan-like style of the mansions, there is a good deal of regularity, and somcth'Tig to admire in the appearance of the houses. On all hands I was infoimed that, previous to the terrific earthquake which visited Antigua and her Leeward sisters in 1843, the town of St. John's was much more handsome and regular than it is no^v ; and evidence of the truth of the remark is to be seen in the numerous negro huts, crowded into spaces between more opu- lent-looking mansions ; spaces which had been formerly occupied by houses of greater pr'^tensions and magnitude, but which, in the pre- sent condition of matters, even in Antigua, fheir owners had not found it convenient to rebuild, after they were shaken down by the earthquake itself, or blown down by the tempest by which it was ac- companied. But the situation in which St. John's stands is its chief beauty — on the shore of one of the loveliest bays that the eye can repose upon — a bay shut in by hills on almost every side. From the shore of this bay, the ground on which the town stands rises up in a gradual slope towards the cathedral, which is as it were the Acropolis, and forms a most imposing object in the landscape. There is therefore much to admire in the positioii of the capital of Antigua, and still more in the natural objects by which it is surrounded. One of the most conspicuous objects in or about St. John's is the cathedral, mentioned above as standing on the brow of the acclivity on which the town is built — and which, although not strictly of any particular kind or school of architecture, or distinguished by archi- tectural beauty of any description, is an imposing structure. It occu- pies the site of a former cathedral which was destroyed by the earth- quake of 1843, and of which the inhabitants of the island seem to have a fond and favourable recollection. The present building is large, being capable of containing above two thousand people. The cost of its erection was little short of £4C,000 sterling. It is built of a kind of marl-stone found in the island, and its interior is lined throughout, roof and all, with the same timber of which the seats or pews are fashioned ; and, this wood being as yet unpainted, the whole has a novel effect to the eye of one direct from England. Al- though there is no regulation, or even understanding on the subject, all parts of the church being open to all classes, without distinction of colour, yet in practice the body of the building is usually occupied by the white population — the people of colour and the negroes occu- pying the side aisles and galleries — there being, as it appeared to me, an obvious separation even between the two latter in regard to the portions of the church which they severally tenanted. All this, however, is simply the result of those feelings of caste which, to a certain extent at least, as yet prevail in the West Indies; and of which, notwithstanding the assertions of several writers to the con- trary, the European traveller am^ong the islands of the West Indian Archip perchai made, feeling from tl be the I to say, I in rcga; I parties I sionallji not bee object specula express tion of it were much ti what be more ei as yet { The: of St. J cese, (. Mr. W{ Alius nearly ^ earthqu the islai little idi in the letter c " there levelled distance shock w had stru man wh propriet in all I deaths c and oth number taken ic thai the or overt ANTIGUA. 39 )ns, there is a the appearance )revious to the ward sisters in tie and regular k is to be seen een more opu- ly occupied by ch, in the pre- rners had not n down by the hich it was ac- ; stands is its js that the eye iry side. From stands rises up as it were the idscape. There tal of Antigua, Tounded. John's is the f the acclivity strictly of any shed by archi- ure. It occu- by the earth- sland seem to ut building is people. The It is built iterior is lined h the seats or ,n pain ted, the Ingland. Al- n the subject, »ut distinction lally occupied negroes occu- lt appeared to r in regard to )d. All this, -e which, to a adies; and of s to the con- West Indian Archipelago will, if he attentively observes, find many evidences or perchance remains. Various attempts have from time to time been made, by liberal-minded governors and others, to break down the feeling which isolates the classes, and particularly the coloured people from the whites, but only with very minor effect ; and whatever may be the case in matters of business, assuredly it is but the simple truth to say, that there is little homogcncousness of feeling or of sympathy, in regard to matters of social intercourse. Attempts at mixed dinner parties or mixed balls have been attempted in few places, save occa- sionally at Governmen' Houses ; and even there their success has not been such as to lead to their frequent repetition. My present object is merely to record facts as they impressed myself, not to speculate upon them. Were it otherwise, I might be disposed to express at greater length my sympathies with the coloured popula- tion of many of the West India colonics, and the reason why I think it were most desirable that, as a body containing many persons of much talent, energy, and general acceptability, they sl'ould be some- what better amalgamated with their white fellow-countrymen, by a more entire breaking down of that " middle wall of partition" which as yet separates the two classes in many important respects. The incumbents officiating in the pastoral office in the Cathedral of St. John's, Antigua, in 1849, were the Lord Bishop of the Dio- cese, (Dr. Davis,) the venerable Archdeacon Holberton, the Rev. Mr. Warner, and a fourth reverend gentleman, recently appointed. Allusion has been made to the earthquake of 1843, which levelled nearly with the ground the former cathedral of Antigua. Of this earthquake, the disastrous effects are yet to be seen in every part of the island. Shortly after it occurred, and at a time when I had but little idea of visiting Antigua, I received from a young relative, then in the island with his regiment, an account of it, contained in a letter dated 12th February 1843, in which it is mentioned that " there was not a single stone or brick building which had not been levelled with the grt)und; and that on board a sh'p at sea, at the distance of one hundred and sixty miles from any of the islnuds, the shock was so severely felt that the shipmaster imagined the vessel had struck on a rock." From information received from the gentle- man who fills the position of coroner for the island, and who, as a proprietor himself and also as attorney for others, has a deep interest in all matters relating to Antigua, I learned that the nuuiber of deaths caused by the convulsion through the fall of the buildings, and otherwise, throughout the island, little exceeded twenty — a number small when the extent of the disaster in other respects is taken into consideration, and only to be accounted for by the fact that the negro houses are built of such light materials that their fall or overturn does not involve the destruction of human life. 40 ANTIGUA. i: I The prison of St. John's, Antigua, deserves mention, were it only to denote the vast improvement that must have taken place in its construction and arrangements since the year 1825, when Mr. Cole- ridge visited and described it as being "like most others in the West Indies, that is to say, as bad in every way as possible." However applicable this description may have been to the former place of du- ranee in Antigua, it is only justice to record the fact, that it has no application whatever to the present airy and cleanly erection. It was visited by me in the society of Dr. Nicolson, junior, whose firm exercise the medical and surgical superintendence over it; and for ventilation, cleanliness, and facilities for labour and solitary confine- ment, (when these last are inflicted by judicial appointment,) I ques- lion if it is surpassed by any prison of equal extent, in any part c'' the world. The number of prisoners in custody at the time was about eighty, being within fifty of the entire number the prison is calculated to contain. The daily cost of maintaining each prisoner was about sixpence per day, being a reduction of twopence per day from the former cost — a reduction effected under certain economical arrangements, suggested and prescribed by the present Governor- general (Higginson,) who takes a personal interest in this matter, as ho docs in everything else that affects the well-being of the islands over which he has the honour to preside as the representative of the Crown. That the daily cost or allowance of each prisoner is amply sufficient for his or her comfortable maintenance, may be gathered from the fact, that instances are by no means uncommon in which prisoners in the jail of Antigua have disputed the order for their liberation, on the ground that the period of confinement prescribed by their sentence had not fully expired — preferring the comforts of the prison to those of their own huts. It is to be feared, however, that such cases have only occurred where the confinement was " without labour," and that they have merely proceeded from the indolence of the negro character — an indolence so nearly universal as to lead almost to the conviction that it is constitutional. At the date of my visit to the jail of Antigua, there was only one prisoner in the debtors' ward. This fact, however, did not prove anything either for or against the proportion of the population ex- posed to such execution against the person. It rather arose from the circumstance that, in Antigua, as in all civilised places, it has been discovered to be but a coarse and irrational way of stimulating a man to industry, to place him where his exertions can be of little or no use either to others or to himself : aided, also, no doubt, by the influences of a law which I found in the pages of the statute- book of the local legislature of the island — and which is interesting to a Scotf-man as showing a resemblance to the law which has long been in existence in his native land on this subject — which law com- I pels th( f gent d( '' the \ 'a I where^\ ; Of i Pi sition a tion, I visiting spcctive expositi these r( ably sit fully ev propriel talent, greater except prepare cal cult much ii himself patent numero manufai tural m introdu( well-kn( estate o: tion wai were inl ture of Wilkie' tlie pro formed home, or unsi hopes, 1 measure planters tillation less dep adopt e' Suffi( pearanc is well ANTIGUA. 41 D, were it oaly n place in its hen Mr. Cole- rs in the West e." However er place of du- that it has no Y erection. It Dr, whose firm er it; and for olitary confine- :ment,) I ques- in any part o^ the time was • the prison is each prisoner pence per day [lin economical ent Governor- this matter, as of the islands entative of the soner is amply y be gathered mon in which rdcr for their nt prescribed le comforts of ired, however, ifinement whs jded from the arly universal nal. was only one lid not prove )opulation ex- ir arose from places, it has Df stimulating 1 be of little no doubt, by the statute- is interesting ^ hich has long lich law com- ; s pels the incarcerating creditor to provide for the wants of his indi- gent debtor while in jail, by paying for him one shilling a-day, in the \'ay of aliment, on the debtor making oath that he has not the wherewithal to support himself. Of the general aspect of the island of Antigua, as regards the po- sition and apj. . arance of the estates and the general state of cultiva- tion, I could write at some length, having enjoyed the advantage of visiting the chief works and plantations in the society of their re- spective owners and managers. But to do so would not give a fair exposition of the condition of the British West India colonics in these respects. For although, even in this metropolitan and favour- ably situated island, the appearances of decadence are but too pain- fully evident, it is well known that, owing to the large proportion of proprietors resident in Antigua, there is in it an accumulation of talent, intelligence, and refinement, and consequent enterprise, greater probably than is to be found in any other West India colony, except perhaps Jamaica. If, therefore, any one goes to Antigua prepared to see anything of that inattention to proper and economi- cal cultivation and management, of which one occasionally hears so much in the high places of Parliament and elsewhere, he will find himself mistaken and agreeably surprised. The steam-engines, patent sugar-pans, and other improved apparatus on the island, are numerous, and every efforc has been made to lessen the cost of manufacturing sugar, molasses, and rum ; while, as regards agricul- tural matters, the most improved modes of husbandry have been introduced on almost every estate. And it is a fact told me by the well-known proprietor of one of the finest estates in the island, (the estate of Cedarhill) that in times of prosperity, when sugar cultiva- tion was remunerative, many Scotch ploughmen and Scotch ploughs were introduced at great expense into the island, to improve the cul- ture of the soil. Indeed, it was from seeing Scotch ploughs, of Wilkie's patent, in operation at a ploughing match in Antigua, that the proprietor of an estate, in the county of Chester in England, formed the resolution to introduce their use on his own estates at home. Facts like these are surely better than a thousand theories or unsubstantial statements. Although the destruction of their hopes, under the influences of later legislation, have, in a great measure, destroyed the spirit and lessened the means of the Antiguan planters and proprietors to make improvements in farming and dis- tillation, or sugar-making, it is beyond dispute that they have, in less depressing times, proven both their desire and their ability, to adopt every means of improving the whole three. Sufl&ce it therefore here to say, on tb? subject of the general ap- pearance of the country portion of Antigua, that the whole island is well cultivated — studded over with the buildings of the diflferent 4* 42 MONTSERRAT. estates, thrown together in groups, and consisting of the proprie- tors' and managers' mansions and outhouses, with the negro huts, and the sugar-works, distilleries, and windmill. In general, the mansion-houses are favourably situated — ofttimes with much at- tention to picturesque effect. The cane-fields come up to the road- side, and are without fences of any kind — probably because timber is scarce, and because hedgerows would have a tendency to exhaust the lands of their moisture. The greatest difficulty the cultivator of the soil has to contend with seems to be, the extirpation of what is somewhat t^ppropriately named " Devil's Grass," — a sort of running weed which spreads with great rapidity, and is of very difficult eradication. Besides the works of the proprietors, and their concomitant negro villages, there are sundry " independent villages," inhabited chiefly by negroes, in various parts of the island, which have sprung up since emancipation, and which interfere somewhat with the cultivation of the estates, from the fact that the negroes who dwell in them are ofttimes drawn off to the cultivation of the plots which surround their houses, at times when the want of their labour on the cane-fields and at the sugar-works is severely felt. This evil is experienced by the planters in many other of the colo- nies, and especially in the island of Jamaica. In the vicinity of Antigua stands the small island of il II m4 MONTSERRAT, Situated in west longitude 62° 17', and north latitude 16° 48'. To this island the English steamer proceeds after leaving Anti- gua, and thus it may be reached in a few hours. Indeed, at any time, with the advantage of the trade-wind, Montserrat may be reached fiom Antigua during a forenoon; although the return to Antigua may, in a sailing vessel, be the work of a couple of days, as the trade-wind is of course adverse to a speedy return voyage. The island of Montserrat, as the reader may desire to know, was so named by Columbus from a real or supposed resemblance to the famous mountain of Montserrat in Catalonia in Spain; which in its turn derived its name from the Latin word serra, a saw, because the rugged appearance of its summit gave it some resemblance to that useful instrument. Montserrat, though small — being only about nine miles long by eight or nine broad, and containing not more than from forty thou- sand to fifty thousand acres — is an exceedingly pretty ana also a salubrious island, and will well repay a visit. Like some of the islands in its vicinity, it boasts a Souffriere, of which a very good description is given by Coleridge, in his usual lively, enthusiastic i ■; MONTSERRAT. 43 the proprie- 3 negro huts, general, the ith much at- 3 to the road- jcause timber cy to exhaust as to contend appropriately hich spreads Q. concomitant s," inhabited which have )mewhat with negroes who n of the plots yant of their severely felt. 5r of the colo- of 16° 48'. eaving Anti- deed, at any rrat may be the return to uple of days, urn voyage. ;o know, was jlance to the |in; which in saw, because semblance to ailes long by m forty thou- y ana also a some of tho a very good enthusiastic 1 . strain ; and on the ride to the scene, as well as in other parts of the island, there are many scenes of great beauty and interest. The negro population of the island speak with an Irish accent, probably from a large part of its early trade having at one time been with Ireland, and there being at one time Irish managers and proprietors in the island. In 1770 the value of its exports to Ire- land was above £80,000, while to England the inhabitants of the island only exported to the value of £7400. Mr. Coleridge says of this accent, that it forms the most diverting jargon he ever heard in his life ; but the following anecdote, well known to those who have visited the island, will best illustrate both its nature and its extent. Viewing, as the inhabitants of the Leeward Islands generally do, Antigua as the capital and head-quarters of their number, the negro who has "emigrated" from Antigua to Mont- serrat talks of the length of time he has been " out," just as the Canadian or Australian emigrant does of the length of time that may have elapsed since last he saw the bold mountains of his na- tive Scotland. And it is said that many years ago, when an emi- grant from the Emerald Isle was about to settle in Montserrat, he was surprised to find that the negro who was rowing him from the ship to the shore spoke with as pure a Milesian brogue as he did himself. Taking the negro for an Irishman, though a blackened one, and desirous of ascertaining the length of time that it took so thoroughly to tan the " humaa ace divine," the Patlander ad- dressed his supposed countryman with the question, " I say, Pat, how long time have you been out ?" " Three months," was the astounding answer. " Three months !" ejaculated the astonished and alarmed son of Erin — " three months ! and as black as my hat already. Eow me back to the ship. I wouldn't have my face that hlach for all the rum and sugar in the West Indies." But the reader may well ask whether the writer's experiences as a stranger visiting the West Indies for the first time, were all of the pleasing character recorded in the preceding pages — whether there were not many things offensive — many things which may fairly be placed in the category of West Indian annoyances ? Most certainly there were many such ; and these sketches would be very incomplete did they not contain an attempt, at least, to prepare, and consequently to fortify, the visitor — particularly the invalid visitor — for what he has to encounter in the way of inconvenience or unavoidable annoyance. A few pages shall therefore be now devoted to the recording of some of my own evil experiences, al- though many of the sources of discomfort to be noticed were not felt till I visited the Danish or Spanish islands, in an after part of the journeyings of which this book contains the narrative. Of the general eflfects of the climate of the West Indies on a 44 GENERAL REMARKS Earopean, and particularly on one in delicate health, little need here be said. It is hot, but, at the season of my visit, between February and June, not so hot as I had been led to anticipate from the representations of others. With proper precautions, no one who visits the West Indies solely on account of health (and who is therefore not under the necessity of exposing himself or herself often to the noonday sun) need make the heat any ground of seri- ous objection. There is generally, it' not always, a breeze which tempers the intensity of the sun's rays ; and the only remark the writer deems it necessary to make on this subject is, that, after visiting nearly the whole of the Islands of the West Indian Archi- pelago north of Barbadoes, his experience is, that there is much more chance of injury from disregarding the changes of the cli- mate, and the occasional blasts and chills of evening, than of much discomfort being felt from excessive heat. In Barbadoes, and the islands to the north of it, the thermometer varies very greatly — ranging in the shade from a little above 70° to 110°, and even sometimes higher — the variation being of course dependent on the comparative elevation, and also on the degree of exposure to the breeze from the sea. In Barbadoes there is no ground which can be characterized as mountainous, the highest elevation in that island being little above eleven hundred feet. But there is a sea- breeze generally prevalent, which greatly tempers the heat. In Antigua there are many situations of some elevation, where a de- lightful climate may be had ; and the same remark applies, even more strongly, to Montserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitt's. The genial breezes and verdure of Santa Cruz have recommended it to the Americans and others as a place of sanitary resort ; and in the noble mountains of Dominica, Martinique, and still more of Ja- maica, (the island of springs,) may be found every degree of cli- mate, from sultry to temperate, and even to cold. Everything, therefore, depends on the proper selection by the invalid of his place of retreat. In the course of my remarks, I shall have occa- sion to explain my reasons for affirming that, many as are the invalids, and particularly those labouring under pulmonary com- plaints, who now occasionally visit the West Indies, there is not only far too great ignorance prevalent as to the superior advantages of these islands as places of sanitary retreat, but there is often much ignorance displayed in the selection of the particular island to which the patient goes or is sent. Meantime, however, I shall simply content myself with remarking that, while the subject is an impoi iiant one, involving as it does the hopes of many a household, ani^ the question of recovery or of non-recovery of many a fair faco and lovely form, there is provided hy Providence in the great range of teiivperature to he found in the West Indian islands, 1 i i ON WEST INDIES. 45 1, little need isit, between ticipate from ions, no one Ith (and who ilf or herself onnd of seri- breeze which T remark the Is, that, after ndian Archi- lere is much IS of the cli- than of much iocs, and the ;ry greatly — 0°, and even ndent on the posure to the id which can tion in that bere is a sca- le heat. In , where a de- applies, even The genial ed it to the and in the more of Ja- legree of cli- E very thing, I valid of his II have occa- y as are the nonary corn- there is not r advantages lere is often icular island ever, I shall subject is an a household, many a fair in the great Han islands, climates suitahle for almost every stage and variety of pidmonary complaint. But, even after having made a good selection, as regards the place of residence, the European, and especially the English visitor, should be somewhat prepared for meeting with various experiences which may offend his habits, or militate against his comfort. Some one has before remarked, that comfort is a word which has a pecu- liarly English meaning as well as sound ; and during a temporary residence in the West Indies, the English visitor may be occasion- ally reminded of this fact. Not to speak of the comparatively open, desolate, and unfurnished appearance which some West India houses (and particularly most of the West India lodging-houses) have to an eye straight from the closely fashioned and richly car- peted rooms of England, there are other differences to be enume- rated, which have a tendency to offend, at least, the prejudices of the European traveller. With regard to these, the views and opinions of different writers will of course vary, according either to their home habits and experiences, or according to the nature and extent of the opportunities afforded each for observation : those favoured with introductions to the better society of each of the colonies, seeing little of them, and judging accordingly; and those going to the West Indies without such introductions, having their attention much attracted (query, distracted?) by the bare floors, unglazed windows, and uncushioned seats, occasionally to be encountered in most of the lodging-houses or hotels. But, apart from the question of houses, there are other more general sources of annoyances to be encountered in the dogs and cocks that dis- turb your sleep by night, and in the musquitoes, chigas, and other insects, that war against your equanimity both by night and day. In such things the visitor from the north of Europe should expect to find, for at least the first season of his visit, enough to annoy him not a little. Where all the dogs come from, sometimes puz- zles one to know ; but the interest of the inquiry in no way lessens the discomfort of having one's sleep broken up into fragments by the incessant yellings and yelpings which these curs generally keep up in the towns through the livelong night ; and it were really worth the attention of the island legislatures of Barbadoes and Antigua, &c., to take, even from so humble a book as the present, the hint to put a tax upon dogs — if not for the sake of increasing much the colonial revenues, at least as an act of charity towards such invalids as the search after health may induce to visit their hospitable shores. But the cocks are not one whit behind the dogs in this crusade against sleep. For, whether it be that Creole poultry never sleep at all, or that they sleep through the day, and mistake the bright beams of the chaste moon for the ardent gaze of Ptioe- 4G GENERAL REMARKS bug, and lift up their ing, and up yelping voices heard at h '' 'M night m Barbadoes and Antigua, St. Kitt's during the night — the crowing, bark- the respective capitals of and Santa Cruz, arc amply sufficient to render irate the temper even of a very patient man, and to justify the volley of stones occasionally discharged at the more intrusive disturbers of rest who venture within " fire." To such and suchlike occasional annoyances, may be added the petty warfare of the insect tribes,'which, engendered and fostered by the heat, and unaffected by the frosts to which in northern climes the inhabitants are indebted for their being exterminated or kept within bounds, multiply and swarm in myriads, which it takes some time, for a lady visitor especially, to get accustomed to. Of theso insects the chiga, and better-known musquito, shall here only be mentioned. The chiga, or "jigger," as it is usually called, is a small black or dark-brown fly, which, getting under the nails or under the folds of the skin and other tender parts of the human body, is, if not very soon removed, sure to engender irritation and pain, and some- times even worse consequences. After so inserting itself, the ani- mal lays its eggs ; and if these are allowed to remain, the part some days afterwards begins to swell and inflame, the extent to which this proceeds being only measured by the length of time the animal and its products are suffered to linger in the flesh. But as it always makes its presence known by an itchy or tickling sensa- tion — a sensation, by the way, which the writer has heard many describe as rather pleasurable than otherwise — there is no chance of any injury if the animal is then removed, as it may very easily be. But the negroes and other labourers, such as the Portuguese work-people lately brought into Antigua, and into some of the other West India Islands from Madeira, and especially the latter, are ^ "angely indifferent to the attacks of the chiga and other insei . In the hospitals, and on the roads, persons are often met with, who, by want of attention to cleanliness and disregard of the attacks of the chiga, have been rendered helpless and diseased objects of charity. There is a pretty geneial belief prevalent amongst the negroes and coloured population, that there are two kinds of chigas — one poisonous, the other not so. But there is no proper foundation for such belief, and it has probably arisen from the fact that while the working population, who neglect precautions and cleanliness, often suffer much, the higher 'lasses, who act more prudently, seldom suffer in any way. But the much abused and widely diffused musquito is, in my opinion, if not the most dangerous, at least the most annoying of all the insects which swarm in the beams of a tropical sun. Of these insects I have heard at least five kinds named in different parts tor, juj but th( I most musqu lodging not bei musqui u judging not onl were th those t( period 3 in the quito t First i always of his £ cause r( one, air ining ol referred musquit is a reir been a s produce presses and sen larly to is scarce at any ti rubbing Such may ex] dence i; ones, an objectio view, at all, h perusal my own pation of the d Tore Althc ON WEST INDIEF. 47 rowing, bark- 5 capitals of i, arc amply patient man, argecl at the "fire." To ed the petty stored by the n climes the ir kept within 2S some time, 1. Of theso here only be I small black ider the folds idy, is, if not in, and some- tself, the ani- ain, the part he extent to ;h of time the esh. But as ;kling sensa- heard many is no chance .y very easily 5 Portuguese some of the ly the latter, a and other ,ro often met regard of the md diseased ef prevalent lere are two t there is no arisen from precautions irho act more ;o is, in my annoying of al sun. Of in different parts of the "West Indian Archipelago — the coraci, zuncudo, redac- tor, juguey, and lancetero. These are names peculiar to Cuba ; but they describe species of the insect which are to be found in most of the islands. My first acquaintance with the West Indian musquito was made during a week's residence in an indifferent lodging-house in St. John's, Antigua, where, in consequence of my not being protected from their attacks by the almost indispensable musquito net, I was peculiarly exposed to their assaults; and, judging from my experience at that time, I would have supposed, not only that they were a legion in point of number, but that they were the worst of the many species into which the Cubans divide those to be found in their island. Indeed, it was not till an after period of my journeyings, when in the Spanish colonies, and also in the sfuthern states of America, that I found any of the mus- quito ti uc more annoying than those encountered ir utigua. First impressions are, however, always the most a ^o, if not always the most lasting ; and it is therefore during the first weeks of his sojourn that the invalid will feel most annoyance from the cause referred to. Moreover, and the assertion will seem a strange one, almost as much discomfort is produced by the Mizz or hum- ming of the insect as by its bite. Like that class of grumblers referred to in a well-known Scottish adage, it may be said of the musquito that his buzz or " bark" is " waur than his bite." This is a remark which is almost universally made by visitors who have been a short time in any of these colonies. The humming sound, produced by the motion of the wings of the insect, and which im- presses the mind with the conviction that it is only selecting a soft and sensitive point of attack, often proves very annoying, particu- larly to one debilitated by illness. Indeed, the bite of the insect is scarcely felt at the tiuie ; nor is it productive of much annoyance at any time, provided only the party operated upon can refrain from rubbing the part that may be affected. Such are some of the sources of discomfort which the visitor may expect to encounter during the first few months of his resi- dence in the West Indies. At the utmost they are but trifling ones, and such as ought not to be considered by any as a serious objection to undertaking the voyage, particularly when health is in view. Indeed, I would not have thought ^.hem worthy of mention at all, had it not been that my remarks are intended chiefly for the perusal and preparation of the invalid, and had it not been that my own personal experience leads me to think that a little antici- pation of what may actually be felt, would have prevented much of the discomfort to which I have alluded. To return, however, to Antigua and its scenery. Although, as already mentioned, no part of the inland is so high 48 ANTIGUA. as to bo entitled to the character of mountainous, the highest hill in it scarcely reaching the height of twelve hundred feet, yet the fact that the hills, particularly on the southern side of the island, spring directly from the sea on the one side, and from the plain on the other, gives to them an appearance of majesty which one would not anticipate from a knowledge of their actual height. This cir- cumstance often reminded me of a statement I had heard in a neighbouring and therefore a rival island, that "there was a metro- politan air about Antigua and its inhabitants, and that even the very hills lifted up their heads and tried to look like mountains." Amongst these hills there are many scenes of rich and rare beauty. The summits called the Ridge and Monks-hill, on which the English Government have erected their garrison and fortifica- tions, are very fine objects in the landscape, and will amply repay a visit. Indeed, the whole of the scenery in the southern parts of the island, and in the vicinity of English Harbour, is replete with beauty ; although, perhaps, the only scene in it which can be fairly characterized as magnificent, is that known by the name of Fig- Tree Hill. The tortuous descent of this hill, clothed as the sides of it are with every description of tropical forest-trees, intermixed with shrubs of every variety of kind and colour, aflFords a scene of very unique grandeur, and fully justifies Mr. Coleridge's observa- tion regarding it, that it is " a landscape so exquisitely beautiful, that no poet or painter who had once seen it could ever forget the eight I" Indeed, and without professing any title to painting or to poetry, I shall exer regard the ride which opened up to me the remarkable beauties and tropical grandeur of Fig-Tree Hill, Antigua; as entitled to a place among what Dr. Browning calls — . " Memory's gems of thought." It is in the descent of this hill that the visitor is reminded, by his attention being directed to the wayside spring as an object of interest or remark, that Antigua is dependent on the rains that fall for the supply of water. For, although it is not quite correct to say, as is often done, that there are no springs in this island, still there are very few, and those that are to be found are very incon- siderable. Indeed, this very clear one, to be found on the left- hand side of the road, before entering the dark descent of Fig-Tree Hill, is the only one which is not brackish, from the interference of water from the sea. But it is only those who entertain northern notions of what is called "rain water," who would regard this fact as an objection to a residence in the island. Whether it be that the absence of smoke causes the rain to reach the earth in a state of greater purity, or that more attention is paid to its purification and safe keeping ing, ANTIGUA. 49 e liigbest hill 1 feet, yet the of the island, n the plain on rich one would ht. This cir- ad heard in a e was a metro- that even the mountains." rich and rare ■hill, on which a and fortifica- I amply repay ithern parts of is replete with 1 can be fairly name of Fig- ed as the sides es, intermixed •rds a scene of dge's observa- tely beautiful, ver forget the to painting or I up to me the ig-Tree Hill, jwning calls — reminded, by is an object of rains that fall uite correct to lis island, still re very incon- d on the Icft- nt of Fig-Trce 10 interference ons of what is ,n objection to le absence of greater purity, safe keeping after it is gathered into tanks, I know not ; but this I know, that I felt the want of good pure water while I sojourned in I i never Antigua, and that I would probably not have known whence the water I got to drink had been derived, had I not made inquiry upon the subject. The want of spring water in Antigua is, there- fore, not felt to be a want even by those who do not belong to the class of the West Indian, who, when applied to decide a dispute as to the salubrity of water in an island in which he had resided for seventeen years, answered — " Water, gentlemen ! — water ! I really don't recollect ever having tasted the water." But among the very beautiful scenes which I had the pleasure and privilege of witnessing in this, the metropolitan island of the Leeward group, there was none that struck me with more plea- surable feelings than the beautiful appearance of a tropical sunset, as witnessed from the acropolis of the town of St. John's, or from any of the neighbouring hills. It is a scene which may be wit- nessed nearly every evening, and particularly if the return to St. John's, from an afternoon excursion, is timed so as to command it. The mountains of Montserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitt's, on the right and left of the picture, the broad ocean lying between, generally in a state of calm repose, with the golden sun occasionally seen on the verge of the horizon, as he appears to burst through or part asunder the dark clustering clouds that attend his setting — look- ing, as I have somewhere read, like faithful courtiers in waiting oi: the deathbed of their monarch at the close of a glorious reign j the richly coloured and fantastically grouped masses of the clouds themselves, with their broken splintered summits, " bathed in floods of liquid fire ;" the beautiful bay of St. John's with Goat Island Hill and sundry other summits in the foreground, or rather a little to the right of the picture — such materials combined, as I have often seen them when returning from an afternoon's ride in Antigua — form a union of scenic beauties, and compose a view of rich and rare excellence, such as no lover of nature could ever forget. There are many other scenes of much beauty to be found in the island of Antigua, to which the attention of the visitor is generally directed ; but none appeared to me to possess such superior excel- lence as to lead me to suppose that a description of them would interest the general reader, however sufficient they proved them- selves to attract, and even to engross agreeably, my own attention at the time. In the memory of such scenes, a visit to Orange Val- ley, and a return to Government House, St. John's, with an eques- trian party of agreeable friends, in the tiright but mellow light of a tropical moon, by the shores of Five Island Bay, and through the appropriately named " Dark Valley," occupies a conspicuous place. It was in the course of this ride that I first favourably remarked 5 50 ANTIGUA. ;;. , ,1;.;' W ^n l)oth tlic appcfiranco of great height given to the hills, from their rising almost immediately from the level of the sea, and the extra- ordinary clearness of the tropical atmosphere. As regards the first of these, a hill of eight hundred or one thousand feet high hag almost the appearance of a mountain ; and after toiling up the acclivity, with a scorching sun nearly vertical, one is almost dis- appointed at being told the real altitude to "which he has attained : while in reference to the second, the purity and clearness of the atmosphere is so great that, looking frem the mansion-house of the estate, which is situated on the hill-side, across the intervening valley, objects of a comparatively small size are seen with a dis- tinctness which renders all their movements, and even their " cut " and character, figure and dress, (such as they have,) discernible to the spectator, although he and the object he looks at be separated by the distance of a mile and more. In a work like the present, and keeping in view the avowed ob- ject of it, as explained in the outset, it were out of place to enter into any lengthened exposition of the condition of Antigua, as regards morals or religion. But 1 feel that I were wanting in common justice, were 1 to refrain from adding my testimony in favour of the fact, that the inhabitants of this island, white, coloured, and black, may and do contrast favourably with that of any city or place that I know of, both as regards morals, and at- tention to religious observances. Nowhere, although a native of a land which claims some distinction in this respect, did I ever see the sanctity of the Sabbath more worthily and more devoutly recog- nized than I did in the island of Antigua; and I know that I record the sentiments of the very highest authority in the island, (a gentleman who has proved the sincerity of his anxiety for the welfare of Antigua and her sister groups,) when I say that many thanks are due as well to the Moravian and Wesleyan ministers of the gospel, as to the zealous clergymen of the Established Church, in this portion of the colonial empire of Great Britain, for the edu- cational and religious position which Antigua at present holds. As regards the religious establishments at present in the island, they may be enumerated in the following order, and as consisting of about the following numbers ; and although I could not lean . that there were any means of ascertaining exactly the numbers In each class, I have confidence in the opinion that the statement I obtained, from some of the heads of the diiFerent bodies themselves, will not prove in any particular materially inaccurate. In connexion with the Established Church there are six parish churches, (including the cathedral at St. John's,) and about as many chapels of ease j and in attendance on these churches and chapels are to be found a very large proportion of the white and coloured popula thousai negroc ANTIGUA. 51 Is, from tlicir nd the extra- l^ards the first feet high has Diling up the is almost dis- has attained : arness of the i-house of the e intervening m with a dis- i their "cut" discernible to be separated e avowed ob- slace to enter Antigua, as e wanting in testimony in dand, white, ' with that of orals, and at- a native of a id I ever see voutly recog- know that I Q the island, xiety for the ly that many ministers of hed Church, for the edu- at holds. n the island, as consisting Id not lean . numbers in statement I themselves. e six parish out as many and chapels nd coloured population, (who are generally estimated at five thousand and two thousand live hundred respectively,) and about five thousand of the negroes. Of the numbers of the Moravians 1 am enabled to write with entire accuracy, having in my possession a manuscript statement with which I was favoured by 3Ir. Westcrby, the excellent and highly esteemed superintendent of that body in the island. The Moravian brethren have in Antigua, at present, nine churches and chapels, under the charge of ten ministers ; while of the eight thousand eight hundred and six members of the population in connexion with the body, six thousand two hindred and ninety-eight are adults, and, of the last-mentioned number, four thousand six hundred and eight arc communicants. Nearly the whole of these persons are negroes, only a few of them being of the coloured population, and still fewer of them white. Following up the principles of their profession, the Moravian body in Antigua have already schools in connexion with the churches. They have at present nine Sunday schools, which are attended by two thousand one hundred and ninety-five scholars, who, of course, are nearly all negroes, and whose education is presided over by no less than one hundred and six female, and one hundred and seven male teachers. But certainly none of the institutions be- longing to this excellent body was visited by me with more pleasure than their Juvenile Training Institution^ at the time of my visit under the charge and management of the lleverend A. Hamilton, a native of Scotland. I enjoyed the advantage of visiting it in the society of the Governor-General, who was desirous of judging for himself of its state and efficiency ; and although at the time I did so the premises were in confusion, from the efiects of the severe hur- ricane of the preceding year, and of the building measures in opera- tion to remedy its disastrous efiects, I saw enough to impress mo with a strong conviction of the utility of such an establishment for supplying the means of illumination in many a dark and desolate corner of the globe, and among many a benighted nation and tribe of the human race. The object of the establishment, which is en- tirely supported by contributions of the United Brethren, and of their friends — payments by the parents of the childrer. being entirely voluntary — is to bring up native boys in every department of know- ledge, at the same time teaching them some manual trade, (in accord- ance with the usual Moravian discipline, which recognizes, in its fullest extent, the dignity as well as the necessity of supporting one's self by one's own labour,) so as to fit and prepare them for being missionaries and clergymen, to proclaim the gospel of Jesus where- ever they may be called, and particularly in tropical regions ; thereby supplying not only more labourers for Moravian missions in every part of the world, but saving the funds of the body, a large portion of which is necessarily expended every year in defraying the travel- 52 ANTIGUA. ling and other expenses of their teachers and their preachers, as they journey from Europe to all parts of the known world, the tropics included. The number of pupils under Mr. Hamilton's charge, in the summer of 1849, was seventeen. Their ages varied from six to fourteen years, and they were of all shades, from the face of the fair- white of the northern clime to the coal-black of the genuine African. But colour made no diflference, either in their aptitude for learning, or in their treatment by their kind preceptor. Black, brown, and fair, answered the somewhat puzzling questions (for children) put to them by the Governor, &c. ; and all were so obviously on an equal footing, that the teacher might fairly have inscribed over the door of his establishment Virgil's celebrated line — " Tros TjTriusvo mihi nuUo discrimine agetur." >. Of the seventeen boys, ten were from various British possessions in the West Indies, -md the rest from the Spanish and Danish colonies ; but all of them claimed for themselves the title of English- man, when asked to what country they belonged. Next to the Moravians, the Wesleyan Methodists are the most nunicrous body of dissenters in Antigua. They have seven chapels, beside preaching-stations, in the island, and the largest of their cha- pels is that in the town of St. John's, which is capable of holding two thousand people, and is generally, if not always, filled. I have a very vivid recollection of this larga meeting-house, from the fact of its being the first place of worshij) filled with a black congregation I had ever in my life seen. I visited it on the evening of the very first day I spent in the island^ and at the time when, as yet, I was entirely unacquainted with any one in it ; and the scene impressed me with all the force of novelty. Besides the derominations already mentioned, there is a small body of Scotch Presbyterians, who rejoice in one of the most singularly ugly specimens of architecture, in the shape of a church, that it has ever been my fortune to see ; and, strangely enough, this unsightly object (which looks like half a church surmounted by a meat safe) occupies the most prominent position about the town — the site of the cathedral not excepted. The stranger visiting St. John's, should certainly visit an institu- tion there, denominated the Soup House — an institution which is, all circumstances considered, one of the most creditable to be found in the West Indies. Like most otne^* establishments in St. John's, having for their beneficent object the relief of human want, and the alleviation of human suffering, or the improvement of human nature, this institution is mainly indebted for its origin and foundation, and subsequent progress^ to liie exertions of the Key. Archdeacon Hol- i ANTIGUA. 53 achcrs, as tbcy Id, the tropics q's charge, iu ed from six to ice of the fair- tiuine African, e for learning, k, brown, and lildren) put to Y on an equal 'er the door of sh possessions and Danish tie of English- are the most seven chapels, of their cha- le of holding lied. I have rora the fact congregation of the very IS yet, I was me impressed e is a small ost singularly h, that it has lis unsightly a meat safe) he site of the t an institu- which is, all be found in I St. John's, rant, and the aman nature, ndation, and deacon Hol- I i berton — a clergyman whose beneficent efforts, in the cause of Chris- tian benevolence, all classes in the island agree in eulogising. The Soup House is so called from its having originated in a humble endeavour to supply soup to the indigent — its origin being so lowly that the first boiling or brewing took place under the shade of a tamarind-tree still in existence. To the soup or kitchen department there has been added an infirmary, a separate sailor's hospital in a different part of the town, and near the sea, and a lazar-house for the reception of patients deformed by that awful species of leprosy which attacks the black population (at least I did not see any white or coloured victims) in these islands. When I visited the institution, there were one hundred and thirty patients in the infirmary and sailors' hospital, and nearly thirty in the lazar-house ; but these are of course in addition to the numerous body receiving outdoor relief. The whole expense at present does not much exceed £100 per month, and the means of expenditure are supplied partly by private subscrip- tion, and partly by grants from the local legislature. In connexion with the history of this institution, there is a cir- cumstance which I think worth recording, as strongly illustrative of the truth that man may iiropose, but that it is the Almighty who diqwses in all matters. The room which forms the place of meeting for the directors or committee of management is a wooden one, and the minutes entered in the minute-book, on the forenoon of the very day on which the great earthquake of 1843 occurred, contains a re- solution to the effect that the timber building should be replaced by a stone one. Tiie earthquake came, however, and confirmed every one in the conviction that wooden erections were safer than stone build- ings in such a country. It is unnecessary to say that the resolution of the minute was never carried into effect. A calm fine day in the tropics is certainly productiv 3 of feelings of extreme delight. Where every day or nearly every day, during the dry season, is clear and fine, it may seen difficult to give a pre- ference to one over another. So thought I, until, in the quietude of a friend's house, in the month of May, in about the centre of the island, I passed a whole forenoon, and nearly a whole day, in con- templating the beautiful calmness and clearness of the scene. Not a cloud in the sky ; not a mist on the earth — " So calm, so pure, it seemod as 'twere The bridal of the earth and sky." Nothing to break the calm silence of the scene, save the occasional chaunt of a negro band, who were engaged, at some distance, putting up the sails of a windmill, and whoso chorus, rude and imperfectly heard as it was, sounded pleasantly on the ear, as the indication of light hearts. Such was one of the days I passed in the country in 1 1 i 54 ANTIGUA. ii. '! 1 1^'^ ' 1 Antigua, and there were many such passed in the enjoyment, of the domestic circle of my friends in that island. But it has been often before remarked, that not unfrequently it is the time most pleasantly spent that presents fewest occurrences to record. I have above referred to the earthquake which visited Antigua, and her sister islands of the Leeward group, in the year 1843. Of this awful convulsion, as well as of the severe hurricane which swept over some of the same islands, traces are still to be found in every part of Antigua. Churches blown down, forest-trees uprooted, houses destroyed, and negro huts upturned, prove how fearful these convulsions must have been. Nor will the evidences of its severity seem less, if gathered from the testimonies of the numerous suf- ferers. Every one you meet with, who was in the island at the time, has something to tell both of the earthquake and of the hur- ricane ; and the details I heard were such that I was surprised that I had not heard more at home upon the subject, and that greater efforts had not been made, by the home Government and the pub- lic, to aid our colonial brethren under these severe dispensations. Sure am I that the treasures of England have been squandered where there was infinitely less of suffering, and infinitely less of claim. In connexion with the earthquake, I heard an anecdote of a negro overseer, which displayed as much coolness, under circum- stances of danger, as any story I ever heard. The earthquake made itself felt by repeated and successive shocks, or shakes, each of some minutes' duration, during which the earth heaved and seemed to reel, so that it was impossible to stand steady ; and many lay down on the ground or floor till the shaking subsided. During one of the lulls, which were marked by a deep stillness, the proprietor of one of the finest estates in the island rose up, and, as he graphically expressed it, " after steadying himself on his feet," went out to see what injury had been done by the antecedent shocks to the buildings of his sugar-works. On passing one of his cane-fields, he was surprised to find a band of negro girls hoeing canes, under the charge of a negro overseer, who accosted him coolly with the observation — " Bad shake that, Massa," and then turned round to one of the girls who (alarmed by the earthquake) was moving off to some place of imagined safety, — " You, Miss Dina, you come here; you no 'top de shake, can you ?" To the person fresh from Europe, there is much information, as well as amusement, to be found in watching the peculiarities of the negro character. At least I found it so ; and, without mean- ing to be a eulogiser of the negro and his capabilities, I must say I saw and heard much to satisfy me that the negro race is capable of advancing to a high position in intelligence and civilisation. SAILS TO ST. KITT'S. 55 rment. of the IS been often }st pleasantly ted Antigua, arl843. Of •icane which ) be found in ses uprooted, fearful these f its severity umerous suf- island at the i of the hur- iirprised that that greater anc' the pub- ifp.^nsations. squandered litely less of lecdote of a ader circum- iquake made jes, each of and seemed id many lay ep stillness, ose up, and, iself on his e antecedent one of his lirls hoeing 1 him coolly then turned iqaake) was Miss Dina, )rmation, as uliarities of ihout mean- I must say e is capable civilisation. Centuries of misrule and injustice may require something like cen- turies of good government and justice to atone for their depreciating and brutalising effects ; but already, in the British West India pos- sessions, the negro has proved that he is quite fitted for the exer- cise of most of the rights of a freeman. In the legislatures of many of the islands there are already sundry negro members, and in most of them there are to be found many gentlemen of colour, having a large supply of negro blood in their veins, who are in no way inferior, and in some cases superior, to some at least of their white brethren, in the discretion and ability with which they dis- I charge their legislative functions ; while, throughout the mass of the negro population, there will be found, if the traveller takes the trouble of investigating for himself, an amount of smartness and intelligence which will in many cases surprise him. Popular sayings in common use among these descendants of the sons of Africa are ofttimes very amusing. "When cattle* lose tail, w^o for brush fly ?" is the common negro form for pointing out how essential one person is to another : " Night no hab eye," is the apology for a negro woman's evening dishabille : and " When cockroach gib dance, him no ask fowl," was the explanation given by a negro to a friend and myself, when charged by us with a breach of contract in not getting us an invitation to a " Dignity ball." CHAPTER IV. ** Be not afear'd, the Isle is full of noises. Sounds, and sweet airs, that give delight and hurt not." SllAKSPEARE. ♦' So freshly fair are everywhere the features of the scene, That earth appears a resting-place where angels might alight, As if sorrow ne'er a visitant in human breast had been, And the verdure of the summer months had never suffered blight." — ^ It was with much regret — a regret which only the conviction that the further progress in my journeyings was bringing me nearer to the time when I should be privileged to turn my face and steps homewards " from wandering on a foreign strand," that, at tho hour or midnight, I embarked on board the small and very dirty sloop licnrietta, to sail from Antigua to St. Kitt's ; and the fact that even at that hour I was accompanied to the boat by sundry kind friends, whose acquaintance had enlivened my stay in tho • Throughout the West Indies yon scklom hear of a bull, an ox, a cow, &c. ; the word is " cattle," used in the singular as •well as in tho plural. 56 ST. KITT'S. I • island of Antigua, and who will ever endear the recollection of it, certainly did not tend to lessen my feelings of depression. Sailing down through the islands — or, in other words, going in the direction of the trade-wind — is a very easy matter ; and it was there- fore, despite the indifferent character of the Henrietta, (which cer- tainly would not have been classed A 1 at Lloyd's,) that early next forenoon, and after running through the "Narrows," between St. Kitt's and Nevis, I came in sight of my destined port of Basseterre, in the truly lovely and romantic little island of St. Kitts. It had blown somewhat strongly during the night ; and, pent up within the very limited accommodation of the little vessel, I had suffered a few hours of considerable discomfort. But as the day dawned, and brightened into sunshine, any feeling of depression was speedily dispelled. Indeed the scene would have gladdened the heart of an anchorite. The island of Nevis, with its lofty cone-like summit lying on the left^ St. Kitt's, with its fertile plains in near view, and the frowning summit of Mount Misery in the background, — a little rocky islet called " Booby Isle" lying between the two, and in the middle of the " Narrows," formed together an inspiriting view, par- ticularly as the sea between was studded over with numerous small tishing-boats under sail, the navigators of which displayed no little skill, as, occasionally racing with the Henrietta, they glided in and out, with easy swan-like motion, from under the high lands on the coasts of both the islands of Nevis and St. Kitt's. It was thus that we approached and arrived at the island of ST. CimiSTOPHER'S, OR ST. KITT'S, Situated sixty miles west of Antigua, in north latitude 17° 15', and west longitude 63° 17', and deriving its name from the circumstance that the devout Colon and his followers saw, or imagined they saw, (which is just the same thing) in the extraordinary shape of the summit of its strangely named principal mountain, " Mount Misery," a resemblance to one man carrying another on his back ; while St. Christopher is generally painted as a giant carrying our Saviour. Of the population of St. Kitt's there has not been any very recent census ; but the general estimate of twenty-five thousand cannot be very far from correct. Its contents are about seventy square miles, and with this population, and within these confined limits, St. Kitt's contains as many of the elements of attraction as probably any other place within the line of the tropics. While, of late years, the attention of invalids, both in Europe and in America, seems to have been more directed than formerly to the West Indian Islands as places of sanitary resort, I observe a some- what prominent place has been assigned to the island of Jamaica. gout, ST. KITT'S. 57 lection of it, don. , going in the it was tbere- i, (which cer- at early next between St. •f Basseterre, ts. and, pent up ressel, I had I as the day 3pression was aed the heart i-like summit jar view, and md, — a little », and in the Dg view, par- merous small fed no little ;lided in and lands on the ras thus that 7° 15', and jircumstance jd they saw, hape of the int Misery," ; while St. Saviour. Of very recent d cannot be :juare miles, ;s, St. Kitt's ly any other Europe and nerly to the Tve a sorae- )f Jamaica. When I come to that part of my journeyings which treats of impres- sions and experiences in that romantic island, I trust, as I believe, it will not be found that I was insensible to the many beautiful and ofltimes awfully grand scenes with which the " Island of Springs" so plenteously abounds. But for the present I have to do with tho fairy island of St. Kitt's ; and truth compels me to say that, tota re perspectdy looking back through the whole vista of my journeyings by land and by water, amid the luxuriant scenery of the tropics, my heart dwells upon St. Kitt's, and its scenery and society, with a peculiar pleasure and a heartfelt satisfaction. The very first view of the island is exceedingly pleasing and inspiriting. Basseterre, the capital, (for of course every island must have its capital,) is in itself but a poor town, or, if my Kittyfonian (for that, it seems, is the generic appellation given to the inhabitants of this isle) friends will forgive the expression, but a poor village ; but the valley in which Basseterre lies—there lies the charm ! Green velvet is the image tbat rises to the mind when I would seek to give an idea of the greenness of the lovely vale, at the bottom of which stands the town of Basseterre. During the occupancy by the French of this part of the island, the town of Basseterre was erected by them, the English capital, " Sandy Point," being at the other end of the island j and the choice of the site of Basseterre, as compared with that of Sandy Point, goes far to justify the Frenchman's sarcasm against my fellow-countrymen, that while nature has given to the children of La Belle France her gout, she has bequeathed to the sons of Albion only her gout. Were I to write of the climate and scenery of St. Kitt's, according to the impressions that arise as they are now recalled — were I even to note down the simple memoranda regarding the island, which I find entered in my journal at the time — I fear I would seem to many to be using the language of eulogistic exaggeration. Warm the climate certainly is ; hot, ofttimes disagreeably so, at least in the town or in the valley. But that the sojourner in the tropics must lay his account with. But during those parts of the months of March and of April when I had the pleasure of sojourning in Govern- ment House in the island of St. Kitt's, I did not, on any occasion that I remember, or have noted, find the heat very oppressive even in the town or valley. While on the coast, or while riding up the gentle, grassy, verdant acclivities of the mountains, the breeze that constantly blows, or rather plays, around the traveller gives a deli- cious coolness to the balmy atmosphere, that must be felt to be appreciated. A better place for tho winter sojourn of the invalid, whose lungs are too delicate, or too much impaired, to stand the bitter colds and rude blasts of northern climes, cannot possibly be conceived. With the American Madeira, Santa Cruz, and the moun- 58 ST. KITT'S. tain salubrities of Jamaica, fresh in my recollection, I give the pre- ference to St. Christopher's ; and I trust, ore I close these descriptive sketches, to give at least some justifying grounds for my preference of this island, or of the immediately adjoining islet of Nevis, (and the two may be considered as one in this respect,) as a place of sani- tary resort. 33ut while I thus write of the climate, I would write in still more enthusiastic terms of the scenery of St. Kitt's; and, reader, if you believe me not, I pray you read the eloquent description of Coleridge, and if you deny credence to us both, then I pray you make some apology for going to judge for yourself; for, rest as- sured that, until you have seen " Nine-turn Gut," in the island of St. Christopher's, and some of the deep and thickly wooded glens of this enchanting island, you have not seen some of the finest portions and most romantic scenes in this fair world of ours. It is not my intention to attempt anything like a detailed de- scription of the scenery which excited these observations. De- scription is not my forte. But there is one part of the island I cannot permit myself to refrain from describing ; and I am the more disposed to note down its memorabilia, from the fact that the writer I have already alluded to, Mr. Henry Nelson Coleridge, expresses his exceeding regret that he had not been able to find time to visit it. The scenery alluded to is that which presents itself in the course of the ride through and across the mountains, near the centre of the island, and which leads the visitor into a very remarkable flat plain, situated in the midst of the hill country, at an elevation of at least two thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. This plain is said by Coleridge (on report) and others, to be simi- lar in its character to the plains between the Cordilleras of Upper Peru. In this place most of the fruits and vegetables of Europe may be and have been grown. The plain referred to rejoices in the cognomen of "Spooner's Level;" and to understand the char- acteristic features of the beautiful and romantic ride which leads you through it, the following short description of the formation of the island is necessary. The interior of St Kitt's may be said to be composed of a moun- tain, or rather of a congeries of mountains, drawing towards a centre and an apex, which latter is formed by the frowning crag and summit of " Mount Misery." Towards this mount of evil name, the wood-crowned summits tend in every direction — split, splintered, and separated by deep fissures, chasms, rents, and glens — some of them with streamlets flowing at their bottoms, deep hid by the foliage from human vision, and only found to be existing by the trickling sound, or by the boy's expedient of throwing ST. KITT'S. 59 give the pre- le descriptive y preference Nevis, (and place of gani- prite in still and, reader, escription of I pray you for, rest as- the island of vooded glens of the finest ■ ours. detailed de- ations. De- the island I d I am the fact that the n Coleridge, able to find n the course he centre of aarkable flat elevation of of the sea. to be simi- as of Upper s of Europe rejoices in nd the char- wliich leads 'ormation of of a moun- towards a >\vning crag unt of evil jtion — split, , and glens IS, deep hid be existing f throwing down a stone and counting the moments ere the splash indicates its arrival at the water. In crossing these ravines, so as to pass right through the island, from the one side of it to the other, by the narrow bridle-path which formed the line of demarcation dur- ing the joint occupation of England and of France, it is necessary to wind by an extremely tortuous course, up and down the sides of these ravines — all parts of these ravines (as indeed is nearly the whole congeries of mountains) being clothed and covered by a great variety of trees of great height, and generally of the most gigantic proportions. The mango, silk cotton-tree, bread-tree, bread-nut tree, palms of various kinds, cacao and cocoa-nut trees, tamarind-tree, red and white cedars, and a host of other tropical forest trees and flowering shrubs, clothe, crest, and adorn the mountain sides almost to their very summits, and the deep dells to their very lowest and innermost recesses — aJordIng ample hiding- places for the various members of the monkey tribe, which are nu- merous in St. Kitt's, and which may occasionally be seen, at dif- ferent points, as they scamper off" on the signal being given by the sentinel or fugleman, who is first seen, being stationed by the gene- ral troop to give timely warning of approaching danger. Apropos of monkeys. It is not easy to disabuse the negro of the convic- tion that the monkey is not endowed with powers of reason, similar, if not equal, to those of man. Sambo may not now carry his views the length of maintaining that the monkey's refusal to make use of the gift of speech, proceeds from the fear that, if he spoke, Massa would set him to work : but on several occasions I have heard the negro and coloured boatmen ascribe to the monkey tribe powers of memory and of reason little short of human. Indeed it is difficult to hear such tales, oft repeated and seemingly authen- ticated, without admitting that this ''caricature on humanity" trenches in some degree on man's " high prerogative " of reason. That the monkeys bury their dead in regularly prepared graves, and that they even attend to^funeral processions and obsequies, as men do, is a statement I have ofttimes heard made, and attempted to be authenticated by the averment that the asscrtor had seen them engaged in the " duty," as well as enforced by the argument that the dead body of a monkey is never seen in the woods. An- other equally prevalent belief is, that if the tribe is ofi'ended in any way by a particular party, they will find out that particular person's ground, and under cloud of night root up his sweet pota- toes, and otherwise despoil his possessions. At all events, one f:ict is well known, and it is this, that the gestures of an irate monkey are very much those of an angry man, and as emphatically, and by the same signs, indicate a hope and an intention of future re- venge. A friend with whom I hrd been staying had some time 60 ST. KITT'S. previously shot a young monkey, and he described the threatening attitudes of the mother, shaking her fist and otherwise plainly pro- mising an hour of retributive justice, as something very like the act ons of a human being. But to return to the scenery of the ride to " Spoone^Vi Level." Mention has been already made of the variety and magnificence of the trees and shrubs. Some of these have been referred to by their names or kinds. It were, however, to leave out one of the characteristics of the scene, not to make special mention of tbo tree or tree-like ferns, although many of my readers may feel some surprise at finding these clabsed among the genus " arbor." Whe- ther the ferns belonged to the vegetable or to the woody kingdom, they formed very striking objects in the scenery under description, and fully and ably sustained the character of forest trees. They were occasionally seen separately, but much more frequently in thick groves standing like palm-trees — " With feathery tufts like plumage rare;"^ their stems of fifteen to eighteen inches thick, and reaching to a height of fifty or sixty feet, with their branching tops covering over the head, like an umbrella. Nor are these trees or tree-like ferns only beautiful ; they are also occasionally applied to useful purposes. The wood, though soft, is durable, and makes tolerable suppoi ' when the weight to be borne is not very great. They are also some- times used for fences. About midway between the two sides of the island, is the place I have already mentioned as " Spooner's Level" — a plain, or rather two plains, each of several hundred acres in extent, covered with ex- cellent pasture, interspersed here and there with patches of " guava bushes," and, being at the elevation before stated, luxuriating in a climate of a cool temperature, the luxury of ' which can only be fully appreciated by those who have been previously broiled by the mid- day heat of the plains below. I was told that, not many years ago, this spot had been chosen by an island resident, as the location where to spend his " honeymoon ;" and, solitary and rather inaccessible as it was, I thought the selection argued no small amount of good taste, either on the part of the lady fair or of the gentleman, or perchance of both. The pathway up to " the level," and again down to the road on the other side, is narrow, and sometimes a little difficult without being dangerous. The hurricane of 1848, the vestiges of which are to be seen in most of the islands forming the Leeward group, had blown down some of the forest trees, and thrown them across the road ; and, to overcome these obstructions, it was on two occasions necessary for myself and friend, Mr. R , to take the saddles olf the horses^ NEVIS. 61 e threatening 3 plainly pro- very like the •ne^-'fi Level." agnillconce of eferred to by at one of the ention of tho nay feel some rbor." Whe- jdy kingdom, sr description, trees. They frequently in reaching to a covering over tree-like ferns eful purposes, able siippoi ' ire also some- d, is the place ain, or rather '^ered with ex- es of " guava suriating in a only be fully by the mid- !en chosen by loneymoon )' the selection rt of the lady the road on (vithout being lich are to be p, had blown le road ; and, necessary for ' the horses^ and cause the animals almost to creep through beneath the trunks of the trees that stretched across the road. On clearing the woods, and at various parts of the ride, there is to be seen one of the most beau- tiful marine views which the mind can conceive. The islands of Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, St. Eustatia, Saba, St. Martin's and St. Bartholomew, all reposing in the bosom of the clear tropic sea; that sea generally in a state of heaving quietude, and the whole enlivened with ships under sail, seen here and there in near view, or on the very verge of the far-off horizon. Having descended from the level on the other side by a tortuous mountain path, a ride of eight miles or so takes the tourist to Bas- seterre; or, turning to the left, he will be well repaid by riding round the island by the shores of Deep Bay, and through the town of Sandy Point ; and thence onwards to Basseterre, passing by and under the romantic rock of Brimstone Hill, on which the fortifica- tions and garrisons are placed. Among the chief recommendations of St. Kitt's, as a place of temporary residence for the invalid, I reckon its vicinity to the island of NEVIS, Situated in north latitude 17° 14', and west longitude 63° 3' ; some- what less than half the size, and containing less than a moiety of the population, of St. Christopher's. The chief town of Nevis, Charlestown, is exactly eleven miles from Basseterre, and the latter is just about the same distance from Sandy Point, the other town in St. Kitt's. Basseterre is therefore fairly situated for being a centre and capital for both islands ; and the fact that two small islands, so situated, should each have its separate machinery of government, does strike the mind of a stranger as something very unnecessary, and unnecessarily expensive, if not absurd. The Go- vernor of Nevis is called the President, while St. Kitt's is worthily presided over by a lieutenant-governor, both being under the gene- ral government of the Leeward island group. But both islands have their respective houses of assembly, with relative staffs ; and, without offence to the inhabitants of Nevis, I trust I may record it as my opinion — as well as an opinion I have heard generally ex- pressed, even in influential quarters — that it were impossible to imagine a more obvious reformation than to merge the assembly and courts of Nevis in those of St. Kitt's, one lieutenant-governor presiding over both. A sail of a couple of hours brings the voyager from Basseterre to Charlestown in Nevis ; and after inspecting the town, (which is certainly a poor affair, and will not occupy much time.) the visitor 62 KEVIS. will probably, if not naturaily, direct his attention to the mineral hot-water baths, and the boarding cstablishtient connected with them. These arc situated about a mile to thvT south of Charles- town; and, before setting out to visit them, the invalid visitor should first, if he can, provide himself with a xiorse — walking ex- ercise in the tropics being but seldom agreeable to the European, or at least to the invalid one. These hot mineral baths are two in number: the largest and hottest being in size about twenty-one feet long by fif'een feet broad, and of a temperature of about 100° Fah- renheit, and the smallest and coldest being somewhat less, and its temperature about 50°. Both are beautifully and transparently clear, and have a singular power of giving a semblance of white- ness, and even beauty, such as is ascribed by Sir Francis Head, in his amusing and able work, entitled Buhhlts from the Brunnens of JSTassuu, io some of the German spas. Being warm, they are nei- ther of them of much density ; and the water, which may be drunk as well as bathed in, has an agreeable flavour, and leaves an im- pression on the palate such as one would expect from drinking Doiled soda-water. These baths are much lauded for the cure or alleviation of rheumatic complaints, and much resorted to for all sorts and descriptions of ailments. I felt, particularly when in the hottest of them, an elevation of spirits which was singularly plea- Bant, and which left an agreeable 'effect — a feeling of hr.ving had strength imparted to my frame for all the rest of the day. After leaving the baths, and paying (if not a resident in the lodg- ing-house mentioned below) the moderate charge of four bits, or Is. 4d. for the very luxurious enjoyment, i! o attention of the visitor, who is here for the first time, will probably be next attracted to the lodging-house erected in the immediate vicinity, and of which the bathing establishment is an appendage. This lodging-house is a large massive stone building, calculated and fitted to accommodate about fifty boarders. It was built when slavery was in existence ; and al- though the fact of slaves being employed in its erection renders it somewhat difficult to ascertain the real amount expended in its con- struction, it is said that at least £30,000 was so spent ; and the state- ment will not appear at all incredible to any one who has visited it and noted its extent. The building has, however, obviously been erected on a scale much too ambitious. It was built, in its present gigantic proportions, by its first proprietor — a Mr. Huggins — proba- bly under the idea that the celebrity of the mineral baths, and the salubrity of the climate of the island, might attract visitors from all parts of the Archipelago — making the island of Nevis wuat it has some pretentions to be considered, the Montpelier of the West In- dies. If such were the hopes of the enterprising founder of the lodging-house and bathing establishment of Nev's, they have been ing NKVIS. G3 to the mineral Dnnected with th of Charles- nvalid visitor — walking ex- the European, ths are two in (venty-one feet )ut 100° Fah- it less, and its transparently nee of white- meis Head, in 3 Brunnens of they are nei- may be drunk leaves an im- Irom drinking or the cure or ted to for all y when in the igularly plca- f hr.ving had day. t in the lodg- ir bits, or Is. f the visitor, tracted to the of which the ouse is a large aiodate about 3nce ; and al- an renders it ed in its con- and the state- has visited it )viou3ly been in its present gins — proba- iths, and the tors from all 3 wuat it has he West In- inder of the y have been grievously disappointed. I could not Icavn that, at any time, tho mammoth lodging-house was a pro.<'perous establishment. In the present almost ruined condition of the island, and under the depress- ing influences which have, especially since 184G, spread their baleful eft'ects over the British West India possessions, I only found the Nevis lodging-house and baths in the condition I ought to have expected, when I found them in a semi-ruinous and nearly deserted state. Still I was not prepared for the scene of desolation they exhibited. W^ith all nature smiling around, and looking to the many attractions for rich invalids which this lovely islet presented, I was deeply impressed with the convict' m that the ruined condition of such an establish- ment furnished a practical commentary on the wisdom of that policy which, in the first place, paid twenty millions sterling, or thereby, to put down slavery in our own colonies, and then encouraged other powers, less scrupulous, to continue to encourage slavery, by allowing productions, so produced and manufactured, to compete in our home markets with commodities produced and manufactured by the hands of freemen. Notwithstanding, however, its present state, the lodging-house of Nevis and its adjacent baths offer a very tempting location for an in- valid or other visitor ; and with the aid of a servant, and the society of a companion, an invalid might here make himself or herself very comfortable, even for a stay of many months' duration. Indeed I was, during my stay in Nevis, much struck with its attractions as a place of sanitary resort ; and most heartily did I agree with an offi- cial friend, of high rank, when he observed, with reference to the temporary residence of her Majesty — the late lamented Queen- dowager of England — in the island of 31adeira, that were those whosfa finances could afford it to devote a few hundreds to introducing the elements of comfort into the lodging-house in Nevis, they would find it a fully more healthful location than the more frequented island of the north. Nor will the remark seem extravagant to any one who has visited Nevis. While the greater length of the voyage gives it an advantage over its more popular rival — inasmuch as it seems now generally conceded that the sea voyage, particularly when the sail is on the summer sea of the West Indian Archipelago at the proper season, and under the benign influence of the tropical breezes, has a most bene- ficial effect in the cure of many complaints, particularly of pulmonary ones — the beauties of Nevis, as an island, are no whit inferior to those of Madeira. Its valleys are as fertile, and its hills as grand ; and it is uniformly verdant and beautiful, even in its present depressed condition. From the smallness of its size, as well as from the height of its hills, it enjoys, for the greater part of the year, a climate comparatively cool, and of acknowledged salubrity. In fine, I feel it is only discharging a duty I owe to others to testify my con- 64 INVALIDS, AND THEIR TREATMENT. Tiction of the fact, that few places on the globe furnish a more ad- vantageous retreat for parties labouring under pulmonary complaints, than does this self-same island of Nevis, with its overgrown lodging- house, and its delightful, invigorating, and transparent mineral hot baths. But it is right that I should add that in no case should the invalid be allowed to come to the West Indies, without previous preparation being made for his, and (especially) for her reception — a caution which I the more readily add, because, according to my own expe- rience, it is but too much neglected in cases where the advice to go abroad is given. There is naturally, in the newness as well as dis- tance of the scene, much that is calculated to depress ; and this de- pression is ofttimes so much aggravated by the feeling of being alone among strangers^ that I have known, within the limits of my own personal knowledge, several cases where I was satisfied that the patient had suflFered more from depression of spirit;:, ^n the tropical climate, than he or she would, in all probability, have done from the disease in the northern one : to which add a fact that truth compels me to men- tion, and the mention of which my West Indian friends will forgive, that at first sight, at least. West Indian mansions — particularly those of the class of domipuhlici — have to an English eye an appearance which is waste and comfortless, and which is calculated to strike a chill into the heart of one debilitated by bodily suffering. In every case where it is practicable, I would therefore recommend, that the patient visiting the West Indies on account of health should be preceded or accompanied by a European servant ; and, at least in the case of a lady, that they should also have a friend with them. The very feel- ing that death might arrive in a foreign land, far from friends and home, often tends to work out the fatal result. With such adjuncts to comfort and happiness as I have mentioned, however, I cannot conceive a better location for the weak, languid sufferer, than this lovely islet of the Caribean Sea, or (for its near vicinity makes them almost one) its somewhat larger neighbour, the island of St. Kitt's. Even Coleridge says, when writing of Nevis, that he would often " run down the trades and winter within the tropics," although he would prefer Madeira for a continued residence, on account of its vicinity to England. He adds, that he " partly engaged to marry a lady in Madeira, when he and she came to the years of discretion." Having no such cogent reason as that last mentioned, to influence my resolve, I may be pardoned for claimirig for Nevis at least an equality of attractions. On leaving the baths, and again mounting his steed, (if he has the good fortune to have one,) the visitor will find himself in excellent condition for a ride round part of or through the island — visiting the Banyan tree described by various travellers, or such other scenes as < his 0^ to do soraev wome baths the attirec Ne' great ORIGIN OF ITS NAME. 65 sh a more ad- 7 complaints, rown lodging- t mineral hot Id the invalid IS preparation >n — a caution ly own expe- advice to go IS well as dis- and this de- »f being alone s of my own lat the patient pical climate, the disease in 3 me to men- 1 forgive, that y those of the arance which ;e a chill into I every case it the patient J preceded or he case of a 'he very feel- friends and uch adjuncts er, I cannot ', than this makes them St. Kitt's. would often although he count of its I to marry a discretion." to influence at least an f he has the in excellent -visiting the 2T scenes as I his own or friends' taste may induce him to visit; before setting out to do which, he may, perchance, have his sense of the proprieties somewhat violated, by observing a number of black and coloured women standing in the stream of hot water, as it escapos from the baths, washing clothes in this caldron of nature's heating : themselves the while, if not exactly in pun's naturaliljus, at least too scantily attired for European notions of decency. Nevis, like her other sister islands, received her name from the great Colon — " Who scanned Columbia through the wave ;" and various are the accounts given of the reasons that induced the choice of such a name. The then existence of a volcano, now ex- tinct, is the supposition of Edwards ; and other accounts equally erudite are given of the matter. One occurred to myself, which, if not the sound one, seems to me to have at least as much probability or plausibility in it as the rest. When first visiting this island, both when going and returning, and again on numberless other occasions, when looking at it as well from the sea as from the neighbouring island of St. Christopher's, I observed a large fleecy white cloud, which, like a canopy, encircled the summit, about the centre of the island of Nevis; and so often did this appearance present itself, and so truly did it merit for the hills on which it rested the " Candidum nive " assigned by Horace as a characteristic of Mount Soracte, that I could not avoid the conviction that such a semblance, seen by Columbus and his fellow voyagers, accounted satisfactorily for their thus nam- ing this island of the tropics by a name suggestive of snow. At all events, there was something of interest in thus throwing the mind back into the past, and attempting to fathom, in any respect, the motives that influenced the great discoverer, and to suppose that the sight which greets you was the same or similar to the one seen " When first his droo[)iiig sails Columbus furl'd, And sweetly rested in another world." When writing of Antigua, I have had occasion to speak of the state of the Church in these islands of the Leeward group; and that in so doing I used terms of unqualified praise, is only due to the high standing for learning, piety, and zeal of the body of reverend gentlemen, who are now to be found discharging the pastoral office in the British West India colonies. But if an anecdote I once heard in Nevis be well founded, there must have been a time when such praise would have been misplaced. There was unquestionably a time when, not only in impetuous Erin, but in most other parts of Great Britain and her possessions, the pistol was supposed to be, at 6i LA.W COURTS. -Hi least for laymen, the most appropriate weapon for deciding questions of right and wrong. That this " code of honour" was ever acted on by the clergy in the mother country, I have never heard j but, if the tale I heard be true, it seems that the impetuousness of the Creole blood had induced some one of their colonial brethren to improve upon the general practice, and, when contradicted by a reverend brother on some questions of Grecian or other antiquities, to ofier to bring the matter to the usual arbitrament of the pistol. The epistle in which the challenge was giv/)n was a simple intimation of the offence, and challenge to meet at or near Brimstone hill. But alas for the " chance of war V The blood of the respondent was either cooler, or his feeling of propriety, common sense, and religion stronger; and, perceiving the absurdity of the whole affair, his answer, endorsed on the belligerent note, was simply, " Reverend Sir, I am sorry I cannot gratify you. In point of fact, I was born a coward, and bred a parson." The date of this deathblow to duel- ling, at least in the church, was not given. No doubt, " 'twas a long time ago j" but I thought the story worth recording, were it only because it is one which, if it ever did happen, will certainly never happen again. In Antigua, and again in St. Kitt's, I had opportunities of seeing on several occasions the courts of law sitting for the discharge of judicial business, both civil and criminal. The barristers who prac- tise in the colonies generally practise also as solicitors or attorneys. Such is likewise the case in the United States of America. In Great Britain, and particularly I think in Scotland, there is a prevalent impression that the ends of justice are promoted by the separation of the legal "profession into its two branches of solicitors and attor- neys, and barristers or advocates, and making the practice of the one branch incompatible with that of the other. That this separation ofttimes makes the obtaining of justice, by means of law, a much more costly affair than it otherwise would be, is very obvious. But if, by such division, a purer legal atmosphere, so to speak, is obtain- ed, it cannot be said that the enhanced cost of the article is money thrown away. I cannot, however, agree in the opinion that the divi- sion all'ided to is essential, or even of importance to the ends of justice. Such had long been my opinion formed on principles ap- plicable to the state of matters in the mother country. For other reiGons, to detail which would be out of place here, I would regard tho breaking down of the division I have referred to as a matter to be regretted. But I certainly cannot see how the division itself in any way tends to purity oi judicial procedure; and my own expe- rience in the West Indian colonies, and in the United States of America, confirmed the opinions I had formed in this respect: while, as regards the solicitor-barristers of the West Indies, I can most is am JURY SYSTEM. 67 ling questions ever acted on d J but, if the of the Creole m to improve y a reverend ies, to offer to The epistle nation of the 11. But alas tit was either and religion le affair, his , " Keverend b, I was born blow to duel- * 'twas a long were it only irtainly never ties of seeing discharge of )rs who prac- or attorneys. sa. In Great a prevalent le separation rs and attor- e of the one s separation aw, a much vious. But k, is obtain- le is money hat the divi- the ends of inciples ap- For other ould regard a matter to on itself in own expe- 1 States of lis respect: dieS; I can most honestly confirm the statement of an earlier writer, that there is among them the same abstinence from irregular interruption, the same urbanity to each other, and the same cheerful obedience to that decision which the constitution of the country makes binding on them, which severe critics have predicated of the junior (he might have also said "and senior") barristers of the mother-land. Were I disposed to be critical, I might add that the only thing I thought objectionable was the number of " counsel" engaged on either side. In a case of ejectment, involving pecuniary value of somewhat incon- siderable amount, I saw no less than four gentlemen of the long robe engaged for the prosecution, while an equal number conducted the defsnce. This must add much to the costliness of the verdict j but this fault is one which is too often committed at home, to justify any severity of criticism towards our colonial brethren. With the exception of the wig, which is dispensed with both by bench and bar in the West Indies, for the very obvious reason that the heat of the climate would render the use of it insupportable, the advocates in these colonies are robed and otherwise dressed like their brethren ut home J and the whole judicial procedure is conducted much in the same way — even to the occasional exhibition either of an unaccount- able amount of credulity, or of incredulity, on the part of the "gen- tlemen of the jury" impannelled to try a civil cause, or to inquire into a crime. Here the English rule, requiring unanimity on the part of the members of the jury, prevails; and the effect is to pro- duce some odd scenes of acquittal, in the face of evidence amounting almost to demonstration. Such results must occasionally be pro- duced by the adoption of a rule like this, particularly in places in- habited by mixed races, and where strong prejudices of colour and otherwise interfere to obscure perception or to warp the judgment. And although the Scottish system to which I had been most accus- tomed has somo disadvantages, I felt that it would be better to allow a majority to rule, rather than permit the common sense but weaker stomachs and powers of endurance of the many, to be overcome by the head-strong prejudices, bull-headed obstinacy, and ability for fasting of the few. There may be some plausible objections to allowing the question of crime or no crime to bo decided by a bare majority of twelve menj but assuredly there are more objections to allowing the conscientious opinions of eleven to be overruled by the dishonesty or bigotry of one, whose powers of endurance enable him to withstand the effects of fasting and confinement for an unusually great length of time. Among the memorabilia of St. Kitt's, I find in my note-book honourable mention made of a somewhat singular stone, which is to bo seen almost on the very summit of a remarkable and singu- larly beautiful hill, called by the more appropriate than euphonious 68 EARTHQUAKES AND HURRICANES. name of Monkey Hill ; which hill may be said to form the southern termination of the range which traverses the island. Monkey Hill is in itself a verdant object, with green, and consequently beau- tiful, cane-fields or brakes, extending to its very base ; and on the summit of it stands the large stone referred to, in form and shape something like a cradle, and having part of the top hollowed < >ut, so as to give countenance to the legend that it was used by the fierce Caribs (who inhabited these islands at and after the date of their discovery by Columbus) for the immolation and burning of their human sacrifices. Brimstone Hill, on which the British Government has erected a very strong and handsome fort, is another object of interest, situ- ated as it is on the sea-shore, detached from the contiguous moun- tains, and precipitous on all sides save that of its approach. And the " salt ponds" to be seen in the southern extremity of the island, and to which the readiest, if not the only, access is by sea, should not be left unvisited. Neither in St. Christopher's nor in Nevis (if I except the lodg- ing-house of the latter) did I observe so many marks of the ravages of the earthquake of 1843, or of the hurricane of 1848, us I had previously done in Antigua. But both sufiered, and suffered greatly — so greatly, that I feel sure that, had the extent of loss thereby occasioned to the already previously depressed planters and proprietors been accurately and generally known in the mother country, some special aid would have been granted to lessen the amount of suffering and repair the damage sustained. It is certainly paying a fearful price and penalty for their love- liness of climate, that the West Indian Islands, and especially the Caribean Islands, should be so frequently visited by these scourges of nature — the hurricane and the earthquake. And after listening to the many interesting details I heard during my temporary so- journ in these islands, I felt more fully able to appreciate the lines of the poet, — " Oft o'er the Eden Islands of the west, In floral pomp and verdant beauty drest, Boll the dark clouds of heaven's awakened ire; Thunder and earthquake, whirlwind, flood and fire, Midst reeling mountains, and departing plains, Tell the pale world ' the God of vengeance reigns.' " Although hurricanes such as have devastated these islands are fortunately of very rare occurrence — so rare as to permit the hope that the visitation of 1848 may prove the last for many years — yet, during the months of July, August, and September, such is the tendency to sudden storms, that these months are characterised as the hurricane months j these hurricanes, it is generally supposed, being caused by a rarefaction of the air produced by the previously- rymfe TORTOLA. 69 the southern Monkey Hill juently beau- ; and on the m and shape bollowed (>ut, used by the r the date of I burning of has erected a interest, situ- iguous moun- roach. And of the island, y sea, should ept the lodg- f the ravages 548, as I had and suffered !ctent of loss planters and the mother lessen the ir their love- specially the lese scourges ter listening mporary so- ate the lines islands are ait the hope any years — ber, such is haracterised ly supposed, previously- existing great heat, and the colder air of the surrounding region rushing in to fill up the vacuum. During my stay in St. Kitt's — where I had the good fortune to enjoy the superior comforts and society of Government House, and the kind hospitality of the Lieutenant-Governor, his Excellency Robert Mackintosh, a gentleman himself distinguished, and the son of the late eminently distinguished jurist and single-minded statesman. Sir James Mackintosh (as well as the editor of his works) — the island was visited by the British naval squadron, car- rying the flag of Lord Dundonald ; and also by an American war frigate, the Germantown, and by a Dutch vessel of war. Taking advantage of such opportunities, or of the opportunities afforded by the numerous small vessels trading among the islands, the visitor may, from St. Kitt's, visit the neighbouring smaller islands of St. Eustatius, St. Bartholomew, and Saba — returning to St. Kitt's and taking the English steamer, or such other opportunity as may occur, to run downwards to St. Thomas and onwards on his route to the north. If as fortunate in point of weather as I was, the sail from St. Kitt's to St. Thomas cannot be otherwise than productive of much gratification. Leaving Saba and St. Bartholo- mew, &c., on the right, the sail is up to and among the Virgin islands, past Virgin Gorda, and into the Bay of Roadtown in the island of Tortola, where the steamer touches and lands her mails. At the time I visited the scene, it was in the bright light of a sum- mer morning — the sea was calm and the wind at rest ; but in a dark night, and in tempestuous weather, I could easily understand that it would require some considerable skill in navigation to guide a vessel safely through such and so many diflSculties. But all dan- ger is now avoided, in so far at least as the steamships are concerned, by timing their arrivals at such places, and by taking the outside passage when the night is dark or the sea rough. Of these numerous islands of the Virgin group — which belong partly to Denmark and partly to England, and of which there are said to be no less than thirty, including small as well as large — the island of TORTOLA is the chief. It belongs to England, and is in length about eighteen miles by about seven in breadth, and contains a population exceed- ing ten thousand inhabitants. Among these Virgin islnnds, but standing a little apart from the rest, between the Danish islands of St. Thomas and Santa Cruz, and in west longitude 04"^ 35', and north latitude 18^, there is to be found a largo island, known in the locality by the cognomen of n ST. THOMAS. Crab Island, but laid down in the maps as the Isle of Boriquen, of which I was destined to hear a good deal, but which I found no opportunity of visiting, although I much desired to do so. This island is nearly as large as Santa Cruz, and is said to be exceed- ingly fertile. In the Gazetteers it is generally laid down as unin- habited } but this is not strictly correct. In former days, when this group of islands formed the headquarters of piracy, Bcr.quen or Crab Island was the abode, from time to time, of different bands of buccaneers or rovers ; and many are the dreadful tales that arc told as to the scenes of which this Crab Island (so called from the large number of land-crabs found in it) was the theatre. Of late years, the mode of its occupation has been scarcely less obnoxious. Even now, it cannot be said to have any fixed population ; and being claimed, or understood to be claimed, by Great Britain, by Spain, and by Denmark, the chief use made of it is by slavers, who occasionally resort to it under the pretence of watering, but in reality to tranship their supplies, dispose of their cargoes of slaves, or elude the vigilance of the British cruisers. Infinitely better were it that it were in the possession and government of England or even of Denmark, now that the latter has followed the example of England in emancipating her slaves. At present it is a comparative wilderness, and misused for the vilest of purposes — the traffic in human flesh. Under proper government, Boriquen or Crab IsLad might support a population nearly as large as that of Santa Cruz, in circumstances of comfort. After leaving Tortola, the next place at which the English steamer touches is the well-known Danish island of St. Thomas. But the approach to a place so " famed in story," and the property of another and a friendly power, deserves, and will from me receive, a separate chapter. tage CHAPTER V. " Vines with climbing branches growinf?, t Plants with goodly burthens bowing." SnAKSPEARE. " To regions where, in spite of sin and woe, Traces of Eden arc still seen below ; Where mountain, river, forest, field and groA o, Kemiud him of his Maker's power and love " Ci WPER. The Danish island of ST. THOMAS Is situated in longitude 65° 26' west, and in latitude 18° north. The capital, indeed the only town in the islana, iy 22' also of Boriquen, of ti I found no io so. This be exceed- own as unin- • days, when cy, Boriquen fterent bands tales that arc lied from the re. Of late 5S obnoxious, ulation; and ; Britain, by 3 by slavers, vatering, but r cargoes of . Infinitely vernment of followed the present it is - purposes — Qt, Boriquen Large as that he English t. Thomas. the property me receive. ITS PROSPERITY. 71 i de 18° 22' ana, iy also called St. Thomas ; and I question if there be, within the West Indian Archipelago, (and those who have visited these islands know how extensive a catalogue of beauty these words comprehend,) a scene more exquisite than is the view of the town and bay of St. Thomas, as seen either from the sea, or as viewed from the summit of the hill rising immediately above the town. The view from seaward was seen by me first, and it certainly was singularly beau- tiful. The bay at the head of which the town lies is almost circu- lar, the entrance being by a neck guarded by two forts. In front of you lies the clean, bright town, situated at the bottom of the bay, on the acclivities, and in ibe ravines, formed by the three limbs of a hill about twelve hundred feet high, which rises imme- diately from the shore. Although in reality built in the form of a square, or rather of a parallelogram, the spectator, in approaching the town of St. Thomas from the sea, has the impression that this exceedingly pretty town is built in that of three triangles — an ap- pearance which arises from the fact that, as you thus approach it, you only see those parts that are built on the three projecting limbs of the hill, those parts lying in the ravines being for a time hid from view. The effect is very pleasing. The hills behind, the numerous^red roofs, the white houses, and the general appear- ance (at some distance) of the cultivation, give St. Thomas* some- thing of the aspect of the town of Funchal, in the island of Madeira ; and if the greater grandeur of the hill, at the bottom of which the capital of the " flor d'oceano" stands, gives it the advan- tage in this respect, St. Thomas' has infinitely the advantage in point of regularity, order, and, above all, in an attention to cleanli- ness. The importance of St. Thomas', as a place of trade and com- merce, is too well known to justify extended reference to it here. It is pre-eminently a mercantile town. Indeed, if the shortness of my residence within it would justify criticism at all, I would say that it is only the fact of its being so, of its inhabitants being too entirely devoted to the crush and turmoil of business, that forms an objection to it as a place of tropical sojourn. St. Thomas' is what is called a free port, nearly every description of goods being admitted at one uniform rate of duty, which is small, being little more than one per cent. Except during the temporary occupation of the island by England, from 1807 till 1814, St. Thomas' has for a long time been in the possession of Denmark. The town possesses a news-room, an ice-house, several churches of imposing structure, and a boarding-house on a somewhat gigantic scale. But, as above mentioned, its distinguishing characteristics are as a place of trade, — a ftict evinced by no circumstance more strongly than by the great number and large extent of the stores of the 72 SEAWARD VIEW. merchants, and the immense piles of valuable merchandize whicli they are seen to jontain. The merchants of St. Thomas' have long enjoyed, and continue to enjoy, a large amount of prosperity ; and their hospitalities are on a scale commensurate with their wealth and importance. In the interior of the island, or even by riding round about as well as through it, there is net much to be seen. The time occu- pied, however, ir so seeing it, is not long, and the visitor should on no account leave the island without having once at least, if not much oftener, enjoyed the very splendid panoramic view which is to be had from the summit of the hill which stands over the town. Through the kindness of his Excellency Von Oxholm,Uhe Lieu- tenant-governor of St. Thomas', to whom I was favoured with an introduction, and whose courtesy and kindness I have sincere plea- sure in thus acknowledging, I was enabled to visit the interior of the island on the back of a good English hunter. I had previously ascended the mountain immediately above the town, and enjoyed the magnificent panoramic view I have before alluded to. Belo\7, and in the immediate foreground, lay the town of St. Thomas, with the numerous shipping in the harbour and at the landing-places, and the clean Danish forts, with the flag of Denmark conspicuous from their flag-stalFs; a little beyond, the calm clear sea, with numerous sails cruising in every direction ; an archipelago of islets lying scattered around, reposing on the bosom of the mighty deep ; and the verdant island of Santa Cruz in the distance ; and the still larger island of Porto Rico, seen dimly and as a cloud on the verge of the horizon, all combined to form one of the finest sea views that it has been my good fortune to witness in any part of the world. During my ten days' stay in St. Thomas', I visited the scene several times, and on each occasion was more and more im- pressed with its beauty. Indeed, when but a short way up the hill, and when enjoying the hospitalities of my kind friends Messrs. M n, senior and junior, Mr. C ie, &c., in their luxurious retreats, perched, almost like nests, a considerable way up the ac- clivity on which part of the town is built — I was daily enchanted with the loveliness of the scene as it exhibited itself from the win- dows, even at that height. But, to see it in full perfection, the summit of the mountain must be attained. One thing struck me forcibly, and now recurs vividly to my recollection ; and it is the remarkable clearness of the water in the creeks or inlets with which the shores of St. Thomas' are indented all around, and which, in days now happily gone by, (and, thanks to the power of steam, never likely to return,) ofiered places of convenient retreat to the numerous pirates who infested these seas and islands. When standing at an elevation of certainly not less than five or six hun- I lency's Althoi alFordii of Sai so. SANTA CRUZ. 73 andizo which as' have long jperity ; and their wealth md about as le time occu- isitor should least, if not iew which is er the town. m,Uhe Lieu- iired with an sincere plea- e interior of id previously and enjoyed to. BelovT, rhomas, with iding-places, conspicuous ar sea, with ago of islets lighty deep j 36 ; and the jloud on the le finest sea any part of '. visited the more im- wray up the Qds Messrs. r luxurious up the ac- enchanted m. the win- ection, the struck me ad it is the inlets with ound, and e power of eut retreat ds. When ►r six hun- dred feet above the level of the sea, I could discern large fish, as they swam about far down in the depths of the lagoon — such was the clearness both of the atmosphere and of the water. On the occasion on which I was politely allowed by th*^ governor the use of his stud, I proceeded, accompanied by one of his Excel- lency's servants, right through and round a great part of the island. Although, on the whole, St. Thomas' is certainly a very arid spot — aifording, in this respect, a strong contrast to the larger Danish island of Santa Cruz, to be immeaiately described — I found much, in the course of this ride, which I would not have wished to leave unvisited. The gigantic cactus and aloe, growing in all the wild freedom of untamed and unchecked nature — the former attaining the height of thirty feet and upwards, and many of the latter having stems of twelve and even fifteen feet high — and the numerous other tropical shrubs and trees, luxuriating as it were in the most fantastic shapes and conformations, constituted a scene of much novelty if not of great interest. Again was I struck with the adaptation of St. Thomas' for the villanies of piracy. In these numerous lagoons, bays, and inlets — most of them clothed thickly to and over the water's edge by the deadly, dark-green mangrove — and in the numerous rocks and reefs which line the shore, the marauder had a ready place of con- cealment before, as well as of retreat after, the attack. The days of piracy in these seas are, however, now numbered among the things that were. At least attempts of a piratical nature are extremely rare. But only a few years ago, some relics or reminiscences of the infamous trade might have been seen in this island, in the skeleton remains of parties, who had been condemned for piracy at St. Thomas', bleaching in the sun, as a warning to others who might be disposed to adopt similar courses. On returning from this ride, I had the pleasure of seeing the scenery I have already described — viz. the view from the brow of the hill at the bottom of v/hich the town is built — under a new phase, namely, under the influence of a tropical sunset. The English mail steam-packet does not call at the other larger and more beautiful, as well as much more productive Danish island of ST. CROIX, OR SANTA CRUZ, But there are opportunities of visiting it to be had from St. Thomas' (from which it is distant about forty miles) at least twice a-week, by excellent sailing packets trading regularly for the conveyance of pas- sengers and goods, at a very moderate charge. Sure am I that the stranger who visits St. Thomas', and leaves the Archipelago without also visiting Santa (^ruz, will have great reason to regret his doing so. Santa Cruz, or St. Croix, as it is more frequently called, lies 7 ITS ROADS AND SCENERY. sOvi about forty miles to the south-east of St. Thomas', in longitude 65° 28' west, and latitude 17° 45' north. The island is about thirty miles long by eight or ten miles broad. It is extremely fertile, and very verdant and beautiful ; so that it has been not inaptly termed the " garden of the West Indies." From the salubrity of the island, and its convenience of access from the shores of the great republic of the Unite i States, it is much visited by the Americans as a place of sanitary resort ; and, in a very comfortable boarding-house at Frede- rickstadt, St. Croix, (Mrs. Rodgers') I found several invalids from the United States of America sojouruing for the benefit of their health. Nor would it be .'asy to point out a location better adapted for the restoratioi o^ t^- ^.almonary patient. The climate is warm, but by no means jiervfiringly so; and, save during the middle of the day — when, of i, ■ • ^ ..< visitor for health and pleasure is under no necessity to expose .uuself ■• herself to the unmitigated influence of the sun's rays — I did not imu the heat at all oppressive or un- pleasant ; while the verdure of the scenery — which, even at the time of my visit, and although the island was then suffering from a three months' drought, had a much fresher appearance than almost any of the islands I had yet visited — was exceedingly remarkable. The great beauty and excellence of the roads ; the superiority and general excellence of the society ; and the salubrity of the sea-breeze, which is almost constantly blowing, are additional circumstances of induce- ment to make Santa Cruz a place of general resort. Indeed the excellence of the roads which coast the island and traverse it in every direction, is perhaps the chief, or at least the most striking of the characteristics of St. Croix. Good roads are not very common in the West Indian Islands. Indeed, as a general rule, the roads are very bad ; and it is therefore with the more pleasure and surprise that the unprepared visitor enjoys the luxury of travelling over the smooth avenue-like roads of this verdant island : particularly as, in so doing, he will find himself in many of his drives overshaded and protected, at least in a measure, from the glowing heat of the sun, by the tall branching palms, growing sometimes in single and oft- times in double rows, on either side of the smoothly gravelled way ; and which seem, as you look forward to them in a straight, vista-like view, like the pillars supporting the approach to some gigantic cathedral. Such rides, particularly when along the sea-coast, and where the soft, balmy, tropical sea-breeze can be felt blowing, or rather breathing, round the frame, are associated with a feeling of luxurious pleasure which must be seen and felt to be appreciated. And, during my too brief stay in this garden-like island, 1 enjoyed, through the kindness of my friends, Messrs. L , K , N , &c., many opportunities for such enjoyment. Although a Danish settlement, and the chief possession of Den- mark lish, al island [ the enl island | and I FKEDERICKSTADT. in longitude s about thirty ly fertile, and laptly termed of the island, at republic of as a place of luse at Frede- invalids from nefit of their >etter adapted nate is warm, ;he middle of isure is under ited influence ressive or un- n at the time from a three almost any of rkable. The y and general breeze, which ?es of induce- Indeed the se it in every iking of the common in le roads are and surprise ing over the ularly as, in irshaded and of the sun, gle and oft- veiled way ; ht, vista-like ne gigantic a- coast, and blowing, or a feeling of ippreciated. 1 enjoyed, -, N . mark in the We'?;i Indies, yet St. Croix has a great number .of Eng- lish, and abu some German residents, and a considerable part of the island belongs to natives of my own country — of Scotland — whom the enlightened policy of Denmark has induced to settle here. The island is presided over by a Governor-general, assisted by a Council; and I had the pleasure of an introduction to the present Governor- general, his Excellency General Hansen, and of receiving much kindness and information from him, and other official gentlemen un- der him in the island. The chief town or capital is Christianstadt. It is so named in honour of Christian IV., King of Denmark, and it is situated on the north coast, about the lower extremity of the island, called Bas-end. It is a substantial, regularly-built town, of about ten thousand inhabitants, containing a large Government house, several excellent churches, and possessing an excellent har- bour which is protected by a fortress — the only objection to the har- bour being that it is a port of difficult departure, when the wind i-? in particular directions. Such is Christianstadt, St. Croix noi". The general statement of the residents in the island was, that it hr. ] fallen off in population and importance since the late emancipatiori * ^ Denmark of the slaves in her colonial possessions. At the other extremity of the island (named West End) strnds the town of Frederickstadt, built more in the style of modern i- coast towns with us — covering fully more ground, and scarcely, ii in any respect, inferior to its companion town of Christianstadt; al- though the latter enjoys the advantage of being the seat of the colonial government. In the British islands of Barbadoes, Antigua, St. Christopher's, Montserrat, &c., of late years a blight has attacked the cocoa-nut trees, and has destroyed, or is destroying, iiiarly the whole of them; to the injury, not only of the trees them.jlves, but of Mr. H. N. Coleridge's fine poetical description of them, wherein they are represented as — •' Palms which never die, but stand Immortal sea-marks on the strand." The first part to suffer and decay is the umbrella-like canopy of leaves; and this graceful finish to the tapering stem being away, the stalk is not only deprived of beauty, but becomes an object of de- formity. This has been the cause of considerable pecuniary loss to the proprietors in some of these islands ; and it has also been pro- ductive of coosid'^rable loss of beauty to many of the scenes the islands exhibit. For myself, I confess I had but little idea of the " Palm tree waving high," on of Dcn- until I saw it in its native region, and relieved against the deep blue 76 SANTA CRUZ. of the iropic sky.* My impression, when in Antigua, was, that the few trees that had survived the eflFects of the blight were beginning to r icover therefrom, and were, in some cases, putting forth new leaves. But at the same time I could not fail to acquiesce in the opinion expressed by an experienced friend, Mr. Martii; of High- point, &c., Antigua, that the true course was to supply the deficien- cies produced by the blight by planting new trees. It was, however, to be regretted, that no eiFort to do this was made in any place or plantation that came under my observation in the English islands ; and I was therefore the more ready to notice the fact, that not only the taller generation of palm-trees new to be seen in Santa Cruz (the number of which was certainly not short of forty or fifty thou- sand) were in full health and vigour, but that numerous young trees had been planted to supply the place of the older denizens, when these latter had met the fate which awaits the trunks of trees as well as the trunks of men. How this desirable end — the obtaining a succession of cocoa-nut trees — is attained, I could no+ authentically ascertain, further than being informed that the Dan'jh Government had made it for a long time imperative, that certain quantities of such trees, for shade and refreshment, should be planted and kept up along all the roads throughout the island. Although no part of Santa Cruz rises to a great elevation, (Pros- perity Hill being the highest land in the island, and that being only about eleven hundred feet above the level of the sea,) yet there are many scenes of exceedingly picturesque beauty to be found in the island, particularly in the northern portions of it, which amply merit a visit, and well repay it. But, at the same time, it is the verdant, fertile character of the island as a whole, and the superiority and comfort of the planters* houses and their concomi- tants, that form the characteristics of this island. Such or such- like properties as those called respectively Canevalley, Paradise, Adventure, Fountain, and Castle estates, and many others that might be named, are seldom to be seen in any other of the West Indian Islands, and their condition bespeaks a high degree either of past or present prosperity on the part of the proprietors. That the past prosperity of Santa Crua has been very great, is well known to all acquainted with this lovely island. Whether such prosperity is to attend the colony for the future, is a question which makes the recent and all-important change in the condition of the negro population — a change from slavery to freedom — one of much interest and importance. Denmark had preceded England in her * I am not ipnorant of the fact, that the cocoa-nut tree (the cocos of botany) is supposed to be indigenous to the East Indies, and thence brought to America and the West Indian Ishinds. But it has now been so long domiciled in the islands of the West Indian Archipelago, that I think it may fairly be considered as eutitled to the name and privileges of a native. SANTA CRUZ. 77 was, that the ire beginning ig forth new liesce in the tii; of High- the deficion- vas, however, any place or vlish islands ; ;hat not only I Santa Cruz or fifty thou- s young trees nizens, when ' trees as well obtaining a authentically Government quantities of and kept up ation, (Pros- d that oeinjj he sea,) yet eauty to be rtions of it, same time, ole, and the eir concomi- uch or such- Paradise, others that of the West egree either tors. That eat, is well hether such stion which ition of the me of much [land in her of botany) is I America and the islands of ed as eutitlcd abolition of the slave trade; but she allowed the "Island Queen" to take the precedence of her in the abolition of slavery itself within her own territorial dominions — and that by no less than sixteen years. She has, however, now followed the noble example. By the very brief statute, a copy and a translation of which will be found in Appendix A, which is dated 3d July 1848, all the " unfrec," or slaves, in the Danish West Indian Islands, were from that date emancipated from their previous state of serfdom. It was the knowledge of this fact that first induced in me the desire to visit the Danish islands of St. Thomas and Santa Cruz, as I was desirous of seeing a population on whom so important a change had so very recently passed, and of judging on the spot for myself of the efl'ects likely to accrue from the transition, and from the manner in which it had been brought about. I say the manner in which it had been accomplished ; for while, in the absence of blood- shed attending the insurrection of the slaves which took place in Santa Cruz, in July 1848, there is much to bo thankful for, it is certainly to be regretted that the Danish slaves received as the fruits of insurrection, and not as a free and generous boon from the Home Government, the inestimable blessing of freedom. In- deed — and after hearing a detail of the whole attendant circum- stances, and witnessing the evidences of the truth which surround one on every side when visiting the island of Santa Cruz — it is im- possible to deny that, although the insurrection preceded and accelerated it, the giving of freedom to her slaves was an act of grace, a free gift, previously resolved upon on the part of the Danish government, and of its ofiicial representative, his Excellency Gene- ral Von Sholton, then Governor-general of the Danish West India possessions. There can be no doubt but that the insurrection might have been put down by the strong arm of power, if the Go- vernment and Governor had so willed ; and I could not refuse my assent to the observation which fell from more than one of the leading men of the island, that it is almost to be regretted that it was not so put down, (the gift of freedom to follow, as a gift, im- mediately on its suppression,) even although the doing so might have been attended with some bloodshed. It is dangerous, always dangerous, to give a people — particularly an ignorant people — an idea of their power, even though the idea be a false one : and that the negro population of Santa Cruz have such an erroneous idea — that they ignorantly suppose that the Danish Government gave them their freedom simply because they could not keep it from them — is, I fear, the conclusion that must be drawn by every one who hears these poor people talk grandiloquently of " the war,^ and the " scenes of the war ;" the "war" being the name they themselves give to that short and bloodless emeute which, commenciDg on or about Sa- 6* 78 SANTA CRUZ. iH turday the Is*, of July 1848, by a ringing of bells and blowing of conch shells, (tho negroes' favourite horn of warning, and a moat effective, far-sounding one,) ended, as has been already stated, on Monday the 3d of July 1848, in the granting of entire emancipa- tion. Even at the outset of the disturbance, and although there were then but few military in the island^ there was only one opinion as to the* ability of those few, aided by very efficient militia and yeo- manry corps, kept up by the European population, to crush the so- called " rebellion," had the Governor chosen to make use of such materials for that purpose. But it is more than suspected, nay, it is openly affirmed and generally believed, that his Excellency favoured the insurrection ; and it is by many even supposed that, in so doing, he was acting not only in accordance with his own personal views and feelings on the question of slavery, but in accordance with in- structions received from the Government at Copenhagen. After the insurrection had broken out, and to guard against any extensive course of license and plunder being had recourse to, the Governor of the island applied for, and obtained the aid of several hundreds of Spanish soldiers, from the neighbouring fertile Spanish colony of Porto Eico. But these auxiliaries were not called into action in any way, so far as I could learn ; although there is not a doubt but that, so reinforced, the Danish troops and island militia might easily have kept or replaced matters in their old position. Apropos of the Danish troops, I was exceedingly pleased with the clean soldierly appearance of those I saw in this island; and also in the neighbouring island of St. Thomas ; and, during my resi- dence in either place, I did not see that which is unfortunately so often to be seen with us — viz. a drunken soldier. Although the Danish Government have thus liberated the slaves in their colonial possessions, they have not yet, at least had not when I visited the island in April, 1849, given any compensation to the proprietors who held these slaves, and cultivated their estates by means of their labour. The claim for compensation had however been mooted, and confident expectations were held out by well-informed parties, that a claim so just would certainly be at- tended to. And now when Republican France has set her the example, in allowing compensation to the planters of Martinique and Guadaloupe, and now that she no longer requires to waste her blood and treasure in the Sleswick-Holstein war, it is to be hoped thc;t Denmark will show herself worthy to be placed alongside of England, by doing all she can to compensate her colonists for at all events a part of the loss they must have sustained by the mea- sure in question. It is only to be hoped that the compensation to be given will be something more than nominal ; and that, while she follows France in the principle, she will not follow her example SANTA CRUZ, 79 d blowing of , and a most dy stated, on re emancipa- though there r one opinion litia and yco- crush the so- use of such ted, nay, it is ncy favoured , in so doing, ersonal views ance with in- t. I against any oursc to, the id of several rtile Spanish )t called into here is not a sland militia old position, sed with the nd; and also ing my resi- >rtunately so d the slaves ast had not Dmpensation ivated their nsation had leld out by ainly be at- set her the Martinique waste her to be hoped ilongside of nists for at )y the mea- >ensation to that, while ler example as to the amount to be given. For surely, at this hour of tlio day, and after the experience afforded by the British West India colonies, it is idle to suy that the being deprived of the services of their slaves as slaves, and compelled to cultivate their lands with them only as freemen, in the face of competition by the Spanish colonies of Port Rico and Cuba, is not a source of loss to the planters. " That free labour is as cheap to the planter as slavo labour," was one of the fallacies which prevailed with many at the time the emancipation of the slaves in the British possessions (in itself a measure most desirable, but most unwisely precipitated) was carried by clamour in this country. Even then, there were found many who lifted up a warning voice, and told us to take care lest the effect of too sudden a change upon the condition of a race whom centuries had nearly brutalised, might not eventually prove injurious, and retard the civilisation of the very parties for whose benefit it was designed. Many able practical men said that, with Porto-Rico, Cuba, and Brazil to compete with, the planter who worked his estates by means of free labourers could not suc- cessfully carry on his operations, without reducing his workmen's wages to such a minimum as would leave them little for clothes, and nothing for education — unless in some way or other he got a very high price for the article he manufactured. Yet the argument ad captandum prevailed ; and it formed at least part of the causes which led to the emancipation of the whole of the slaves of Eng- land in 1834, that it was believed that slave labour was to the full as expensive as was labour by means of freemen, even in the then state of the West Indian Islands. But this fallacy is, I presume, pretty well exploded — at all events, I have not lately heard it ; and stubborn must be the disciple to it whom the effects of the Sugar Duties Bill of 1846 upon the prosperity of the British sugar- growing colonies, has not convinced of his mistake. That eman- cipation, by any government, of slaves previously held as property by its subjects, in virtue of laws which legalised or recognised the existence of what has been called " man's property in man," must be productive of loss to the holders of such property, is therefore a proposition of easy demonstration here, were it not that its dis- cussion would be foreign to the purposes of the work, or at least to the present portion of it. The subject has naturally presented itself in connexion with the recent slave insurrection in the island of Santa Cruz, and the emancipation by the Danish Government whici: f v/ixowed upon it ; and these few remarks have been made upon it in passing, because it were undue concealment to hide the fact that, anxious as I was to see the matter in the most favourable light, I found that the greater number of the most intelligent of the planters and proprietors in Santa Cruz — the gentlemen who 80 SANTA CRUZ. had the largest stake in the matter, and who were best acquainted with all the details — entertained the gloomiest apprehensions on the subject, fearing that the emancipation was an end of the island's prosperity, and that it had been gone about too suddenly, and with too little regard to the unprepared state of the society for the reception of the boon, to render it likely that it would be pro- ductive of anything save a lessening of their comforts even to the negro population themselves, at least for a long time to come. Such certainly were the views I heard most frequently expressed at the tables of the planters, and even at the table of the Governor- general, during my visit to the island; and it is therefore only just that I should say so. There were, however, others who took a more cheering and encouraging view of the matter, and of the future prospects of this charming island ; and most sincerely do I hope that the latter may prove to be sound, and the former false prophets; and that, as regards the opinion of "anticipators of evil," it may be the case in this, as in other instances, that the "fear" and not the wish has been father to the thought. Nor should I omit here to mention the fact, that both parties, the dismal ists as well as the children of hope, unite in giving the present Governor-general (Hansen) credit, not only for the best intentions, but for the adoption of the wisest meafjurcs for the geaeral prosperity of the island : and particularly for the mea- sures he adopted to lessen the rudeness of the transition, and any injurious effects likely to result therefrom. In particular. General Hansen, immediately after entering on his duties as Governor- general, passed an act " to regulate the relations between the pro- prietors of landed estates and the rural population of free labour- ers," which has been found to work very beneficially. This act is known in Santa Cruz as " The Labour Act;" and, as I have heard it much commended by many planters, even in the British colo- nies, as containing numerous provisions of great wisdom, which mighi be advantageously followed by ourselves, I have deemed it advisable to give (for those who may wish to peruse it) a transla- tion of it in the Appendix B. Leaving Santa Cruz and my kind friends there with very great regret, and attended by my countryman, Mr. Lang, to the boat, I sailed again at six A. m. in the West End packet for St. Thomas ; but, after a very rough handling on the part of Neptune, (who had hitherto proved so propitious and quiescent, that I had almost resolved to write a book to vindicate him from the aspersion of faithless, uncertain, and treacherous — ' Varium et mutabilo semper" — with which he is so often assailed by poets and others,) I reached theB lying again in thi joyme hangs I was my jo PORTO RICO. 81 3t acquainted ehensions on . end of the 00 suddenly, 16 society for rould be pro- 3 even to the me to come. ;ly expressed lie Governor- lerefore only ;rs who took , and of the ncerely do I former false ticipators of ics, that the iit. both parties, n giving the or the best ires for the )r the mea- on, and any lar, General ,s Governor- 3en the pro- free labour- This act is have heard Iritish colo- dom, which deemed it ;) a transla- vcry great ho boat, I Thomas ; tune, (who had almost ipersioa of I reached the Bay of St. Thomas about four o'clock a. m. of next morning ; lying in my crib on board the packet till seven A. M. I landed again at St. Thomas, and employed the additional days of my stay in that island to a further exploration of it, and to the daily en- joyment of the superb view from the crest of the hill which over- hangs the town, until the arrival of the steamship Tay, in which I was to proceed, and did, after a few days, proceed onward in my journeyings. CHAPTER VI. — " Not content With every food of life to nourish man, Thou mak'st all nature beauty to his eye And music to his ear." — Milton. " The wild Maroons, imprcpnable and free, Among the mountain-holds of liberty, Sudden as lightning darted on their foe — Seen like the flash, remembered like the blow." Leaving St. Thomas late in the evening, a sail of some twelve hours brought us to the fortified town of Saint Juan's, forming the capital of PORTO RICO, One of the Spanish West Indian possessions, situated between latitude 17° 55' and 18° 30' north, and longitude 65° 40' and 67° 20' west; about one hundred and twenty miles long and sixty broad, and containing a population of three hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants, of whom only about forty-two thousand are slaves, the rest of the population being composed of about one hundred and eighty-nine thousand whites, one hundred thousand mulattoes, and twenty-five thousand free blacks. Indeed, it is this circumstance — the smallness of its slave, and indeed of its negro population, as compared with the number of whites and coloured people — that may be said to form the chief characteristic of the colony of Porto Rico : the circumstance itself being accounted for by the fact that, for centuries, the island formed a penal settle- ment of the mother country. Not having done more than land at Porto Rico, I cannot add my personal testimony to that of the many travellers who have attested the fact, that I'orto Rico, though not so romantic as some of the other larger islands, such as St. Domingo or Jamaica, (being much flatter,) is an island of great, nay, of excessive fertility — diversified with woods, valleys, and plains, watered by numerous rivers and springs, and abund- 82 ST. DOMINGO. ^ antly well stocked with cattle of every kind and description com- mon to these islands. Indeed, the value and extent of her exports in sugar, molasses, coflFee, corn, and even rice, as well as the large revenue she yiel-^s to Spain, sufficiently prove the extreme fertility of this island ; and that the fields of Porto Rico, cultivated as they certainly are chiefly by white men, and under a tropical sun oi as overpowering heat as is to be found in any other part of the West Indies— Guiana alone excepted — are as well cultivated as any other of the tropical possessions. The capital, St. Juan de Porto Rico, with its fine bay and extensive fortifications, looks exceedingly well from the sea ; but, like most Spanish towns, St. Juan's looks best at a distance. On closer inspection, it wants the element of cleanli- ness, so valued in an Englishman's estimate of superiority or of comfort. Leaving St. Juan de Porto Rico after a short stay, and coasting along the shore of the island, the steamer next proceeds by a route of about sixty or seventy miles to the k rge island of ST. DOMINGO, lUSPANlOLA, OR HAYTI, By nature the richest, as well as the largest, of all the islands in the West Indian Archipelago. The island of Hayti is four hundred miles in length by about seventy-five miles in breadth. It was first discovered by Columbus in 1492, and then named Hispaniola, under which name it was retained by Spain for one hundred and twenty years ; and, during ber despotic rule for that period, its population was reduced from nearly a million, to only sixty thousand inhabitants. Thereafter it was jointly occupied by France and Spain till 1795, when the whole of it fell into the hands of the French, who retained it until 1804, when it passed from their hands, and was proclaimed an independent empire under its first emperor, Dessalines, a black chief, who " assumed the imperial purple," under the imposing title of Emperor of Hayti — that being the ancient if not the original name of the island. From 1804 downwards, the history of this unfortunate island has been little or nothing else than the history ot raj)iue — one black rising up to contest the sovereignty with another, and filling the island with scenes of confusion and misery, which go far to prove the theory of those who maintain that the negro race is by natural incapacity unfitted for self-government. Indeed, there is scarcely a page of the history of St. Domingo, *"rom the date of its occupation by Spain (which is now, by a retributive justice, doing in her own person a kind of penance for her gross cruelty to the in- habitants of the West Indian Islands) that can be perused with pleasure by the friend of humanity ; unless, perchance, it bo that page which tells of the heroic struggles for iho liberty of himsel and fa Toussa ST. DOMINGO. 83 oription cora- f her exports I as the large reme fertility vated as they cal sun 01 as of the West as any other Porto Rico, eedingly well looks best at nt of cleanli- riority or of and coasting is by a route ■I, le islands in four hundred It was first niola, under and twenty population inhabitants, till 1795, ^ho retained proclaimed I, a black iposing title le original ory of this le history ot th another, y, which go egro race is led, there is date of its 3e, doing in to the in- fused with it bo that of himsel les and fellows, on the part of the African slave, and subser . i:^^ to drive the Jamaica cofFee-plrnters out of the trade. This, how- abo^ ever, is but one of the many injurious eflFects which have arisen eleg from the Ministry of the day having included the West Indian colonies within the application of their category of free trade, (as regards their exports,) unmindful or regardless of the fact that, by previous legislation, the inhabitants of these colonies had been de- piived of the power to cultivate their estates by means of slaves — their competitors in the populous and rich colonial possessions of Spain and Portugal having it still in their power so to do; forget- ful, in short, of the circumstances which render the case of the British West Indian planter an exceptional one. Returning to Kingston from a visit to the coflFee plantations among the Port Royal mountains, the visitor may vary the scene by taking a somewhat different route than that by which he went. I did so, and returned by a road which led me across the summit at a different point, and by a gorge or cleft, which is so totally unseen until the traveller is just in it, that you are actually rounding the bluff corner or point ere you can persuade yourself that there can be a means of exit in that direction. The road, or bridle-path in question, pursues its way down the mountains, passing the barracks at Newcastle, which lie a little at the right. This garrison at Newcastle stands very beautifully among the mountain scenery, at an elevation, little, if anything, short of three thousand feet. To describe the scenery of this day's ride, were almost to repeat what has been already written of the ascent. Though different, it was still the same — sufficiently varied to give renewed delight to the wanderer in search of the picturesque or grand, but not sufficiently different to enable one — or at least one not an adept at describing scenery — to record its peculiar characteristics, in such a way as to make the details interesting to the general reader. Indeed, the same remark may be made respecting the whole of the mountain scenery of Jamaica. It is unquestionably very grand — ofttimes surprisingly and sublimely so ; and many of its scenes of enchantment are en- shrined among my most valued recollections of the kind : but they are so marked by the same general features, that they may be often described in nearly the same general way. At all events, and un- less the writer had the descriptive talent of a Scott or of «v Dickens, it were not easy to give such variety to the written portraiture as to render it interesting to a reader. Very different, however, is it in the inspection. Then there is the perception of an unceasing variety, which prevents the possibility of & feeling of sameness. : — Something has already been written of the exceeding beauty, or ZT^. rather grace, of the bamboo-tree. It was in a visit to a scene in the island of Jamaica^ of a different description from the mountain suenes This, how- have arisen West Indian ee trade, (as fact that, by lad been de- 3 of slaves — tossessions of ) do ; forget- case of the ations among me by taking I did so, and at a different len until the 3 bluff corner )e a means of ition, pursues t Newcastle, rcastle stands vation, little, ost to repeat different, it elight to the sufl&ciently it describing a way as to ed, the same tain scenery surprisingly nent are en- but they lay be often its, and un- «v Dickens, *aiture as to 5ver, is it in ling variety, beauty, or cene in the utain suenes JAMAICA. above delineated, that my attention was most directed to the peculiar elegance of this tree, with " Its feathery tufts, like plumage rare ; Its stem BO high, so strange, so fair." And the view I refer to was one which the traveller in the Island of Springs should on no account leave unvisited. It rejoices in the somewhat strange cognomen of the " Bog Walk," but might much more fittingly be denominated the Mountain Glen or the Dark Val- ley. I visited it when en route to visit one of the most, if not the most, beautiful and fertile sugar-plantations in the island of Jamaica, (in compliance with the invitation of its enthusiastic, enterprising, and talented owner, who had been my fellow-voyager from England to Barbadoes, and who, if ever these lines meet his eye, will, I trust, remember the meeting with the same pleasure that I do;) and an account of the whole ride will, I hope, not prove unacceptable to the reader who is desirous of knowing something of a European's feel- ings and experiences in the island of Jamaica. As far as Spanish Town — or (as I would prefer calling it, for the sake of euphony, by its Spanish name) as far as St. lago de la Vega — the route is by railway, a distance of thirteen miles, performed in about half an hour, travelled by locomotives, passing through a low, flat country, now almost completely grown over with bush, (a species of prickly acacia,) but which, I was assured, was some years ago qlear, a large part of it being excellent pasture land. Spanish Town, though the seat of the government and the capital, does not afford many objects of interest. The Government-house is a spacious building, and the square in which it Etands is neat, and neatly planted. In this square there is a marble statue, executed by Bacon, erected to the memory of Lord Rodney, in acknowledgment of the services rendered by him to his country on the occasion of the signal victory obtained by him and Hood in the West Indies, on the 12th April 1782, over the combined fleets of France and Spain, when they threatened an attack upon Jamaicr,. This victory was ob- tained at a time when Great Britain was contending with her re- volted American colonies — which opportunity had been seized by France, assisted by Spain, for inflicting a blow against her island rival. I confess that, although the efforts of Jonathan to assert and to maintain his independence, and even his success in doing so, never moved my bile — although, indeed, I regard such struggles and such success, in, a strife for liberty, as part of the Anglo-Saxon character — as something that Jonathan has inherited from his father, John Bull — I cannot forgive Franco the part she has so often played in the unnatural wars between Britain and the States. That without the aid of Franco^ America could not have succeeded — at least^ could ! f m JAMAICA. not have so soon succeeded — in vindicating her independence, will be acknowledged by every candid student of American history, on whichever side of the Atlantic he has been born or " raised." But, however desirable it was, or might be, that America should assert her independence, there was much that was unworthy in the motives which led France to throw her weight into the scale ; and I cannot help regarding the growth of democratic and republican principles in France, and the destruction of her monarchy and monarchical insti- tutions, with the uncertain tenure on which all things seem at pre- sent held in that country, as a kind of retributive justice towards her and her rulers for their ungenerous conduct towards England on the occasion of the wars with the revolted provinces in North America. Be this, however, as it may, it was when England was so engaged, single-handed, and against many enemies, that the naval might of France and Spain was humbled by the victory of Rodney and Hood, thus commemorated in the llotle square of the little town which re- joices in the euphonious Spanish name of St. lago de la Vega. The road from Spanish Town to the village of Ewarton passes through the scenery I have already referred to as known by the ex- traordinary cognomen of the " Bog Walk." As far as Ewarton the road is good. A few miles after leaving Spanish Town, you enter upon the glen, and, for a distance of about four or five miles, the eye is delighted by a succession of romantic scenes of singular for- mation and exceedingly picturesque beauty. The translucent stream, alongside of which the road winds, has forced for itself a passage through the opposing barrier of rock, which is occasionally fully four hundred feet high, as it rises overhead on either side. The lux- uriant vegetation of the tropics has clothed the sides of this ravine closely, and to the very summits, with a host of flowering shrubs, and even with gigantic forest-trees, which throw their dark shadows down upon the pathway ; while, overhead, are seen glimpses of the deep blue of the tropic sky — of a dark blue, and of a liquid clear- ness altogether unknown and undreamt of in our less genial but more bracing climate of the north. The whole forms one of the most pleasing scenes it has ever been my good fortune to witness. Further on, in the same ride, are to be seen the gigantic clusters of the bamboo, already mentioned, whose feathery foliage, when gently stirred by the breeze, moves and bends with all the grace of the plumes of the ostrich, and is indeed " beautiful exceedingly." These bamboo trees, as they may with propriety be called, are ofttimes seen of fully one hundred feet high, each stem being of six or eight, or even ten inches in diameter, and growing in tufts or clusters of fifty or sixty together, their nodding plumes hanging over your head and waving in the wind, as the traveller passes on under their grate- ful shade. seen ton JAMAICA. m lendence, will Q history, on lised." But, should assert 1 the motives and I cannot principles in sirchical insti- seem at pre- ) towards her gland on the rth America. 3 so engaged, (ral might of ly and Hood, ivn which re- . Vega, 'arton passes n by the ex- Ewarton the n, you enter re miles, the singular for- cent stream, !lf a passage ionally fully e. The lux- ' this ravine ring shrubs, ark shadows apses of the iquid clear- genial but one of the to witness, clusters of Nhen gently ;race of the ;ly." These ire ofttimes iix or eight, r clusters of your head their grate- Beyond that part of the journey entitled the Bog "\7alk, the scenery of the ride from St. lago de la Vega to the village of Ewar- ton is pleasing and often fine; and after leaving Ewarton the scenery-lover progresses into a mountainous district of much gran- deur, revealing at almost every turn mountain glades where sun- shine and shade repose almost side by side — forming precipices and abysses whose depth the eye is prevented from penetrating, by the deep, close fringe of foliage that covers their sides, and gigantic mountain-peaks rearing their magnificent, cloud-wreathed heads at almost every opening in the forest. I have, since my return from the voyage of which these volumes contain a brief record, observed a growing tendency in the public mind in this country to regard Jamaica as a place of sanitary resort, and as likely, if not to supersede, at least greatly to interfere with the island of Madeira in that respect : and certainly truth compels me to admit that there are few places to which an invalid from Europe could go with better hope of benefit, than to the salubrious island of Jamaica. The voyage which — particularly when adven- tured on at the proper season of the year — is ofttimes the most bene- ficial part of the change, is no longer than that to the more fre- quented island of wine-growing celebrity; and Jamaica being much larger than Madeira, there is greater variety to occupy the attention of the invalid, and to prevent the approach of that ennui which is apt to steal over the exhausted frame. In the plains and in the towns of the Island of Springs, particularly in Kingston, it is warm, no doubt — hot; and perhaps to most persons very unpleasantly so, being but seldom under 100° of Fahrenheit in the shade. But by going a little way into the country, and up into the mountains, the visitor may literally secure for himself or herself a climate almost of any temperature, from the merely temperate heat of a spring or a summer's morning, to the noonday heat already mentioned. Add to this that the change of scene (which is always, I should think, of much importance, when the object is to draw ofiF the invalid's atten- tion from himself and his own feelings,) in going direct from Europe to Jamaica, is very great, much greater than it can be by limiting- the voyage to the temperate zone. The skies, grains, shrubs, flowers, birds, fish, and above all the trees, are nearly all diflFerenfc and in diflferent forms and combinations. So that the first novel, and no doubt often painful, impressions worn ofi", there is abundance to attract and occupy the attention, to the exclusion of depressing or other thoughts of self, even during a very extended stay. For the British visitor Jamaica has this further advantage, that the language, the forms and the arrangements of domestic life, and the public or- dinances of religious worship, are all nearly the same as those of the mother country. I can, therefore, with great truth and satisfaction, JAMAICA. ^' .1 add my humble testimony to that of others vrho have preceded me, as to the salubrity of Jamaica, and the inducements it holds out as a place of sanitary resort for the invalid — particularly of the invalid whose lungs are affected, or suspected of being so. But, at the same time, similar remarks may be made of some others of the British West India possessions. So far as my own personal feelings are concerned, I should prefer a temporary location in the smaller island of St. Kitt's, with the advantage such residence affords of an occa- sional two hours* sail to the romantic isle of Nevis. No doubt the island of St. Christopher's is not so large as is Jamaica ; nor are the mountains of the former so lofty as those of the latter. But, if these circumstances prevent the variety of climate, they render it more equal f and I have often heard residents in the West Indies complain of injurious effects resulting from a sudden transition from the temperate region of the hill-top, or of the hill-side, to the torrid zone of the plain below. Again, the visitor will not find, in the island of saintly name, so great variety either of society or of scenery as in its larger sister island of spring celebrity. But St. Christo- pher's is surrounded by a number of islands, particularly by those of the British Leeward group, to most of which there is easy and frequent access; and, by a two hours' sail to Nevis, or b'y a sail of a few hours longer to Montserrat or Antigua, or a day's sail in the steamer to St. Thomas, the visitor who makes St. Kitt's his head- quarters may easily vary the scene almost ad infinitum. This, how- ever, is a mere comparison of physical advantages. If the invalid has friends and relations in either place, he or she will of course be influenced by that consideration; and I would be very far from making an attempt to dissuade from such a course, although it would be displaying base ingratitude, and doing gross injustice to West Indian hospitality, were I not here to add, that there is no part of the world where the person entirely a stranger can go, with more certainty of receiving kindness and considerate attention, than to the British colonial possessions in the West Indies. To the native-born subjects of Great Britain this tribute is due. But they will, I trust, forgive me when I add, that I feel almost as if it were doubly due to the colonial-born subjects of our noble country. There seemed to me to be something in the Creole blood that en- gendered a graceful courtesy and disinterestedness of conduct — some generous peculiarity of mind, derived from the fact that a tropical birthplace had dissolved something of the natural caution of the northern race to which they belonged, and warmed them into a more generous sympathy. The observation applies to my Creole friends of both sexes. As regards the ladies, I may be permitted to add — and I make the addition with heartfelt sincerity — that to a natural kindness (if I may so speak) of manner, there is added an ease, a grac of preceded me, holds out as »f the invalid , at the same the British feelings are mailer island 3 of an occa- [o doubt the ; nor are the ter. But, if ley render it West Indies Einsition from to the torrid t find, in the or of scenery St. Christo- rly by those i is easy and by a sail of a 3 sail in the it's his head- This, how- P the invalid of course be iry far from although it injustice to there is no lean go, with ention, than es. To the But they as if it were )le country. )od that en- iduct — some it a tropical ition of the into a more reole friends ed to add — a natural d an case, a JAMAICA. 97 grace, and a beauty, which at least proves that they have lost none of the charms of the race from which they have sprung, by their parents being transplanted into a warmer clime. I had heard some- thing of the beauty of the Creole ladies ere I visited the West In- dies. But I was not a week there ere I felt surprise that I had not heard much more. And, did not my feeling of what is due to pro- priety and the duties of private life prevent me from even partially lifting the veil which ought to preserve from publicity whatever the traveller may have seen, through his having been admitted into the circles of domestic life, I could name ladies, married as well as sin- gle, in Barbadoes, Antigua, St. Kitt's, Santa Cruz, and Jamaica, (particularly I confess in Antigua,) who, in personal charms, as well as accomplishments, would advantageously compare or contrast with any of the fairer part of creation it had ever been my own good for- tune to meet. To the fullness and dignity derived from their Nor- man blood or Anglo-Saxon origin, they add an easy grace and elegance of motion, probably derived in some way from the circum- stance of their birthplace being within the tropics. And, albeit their complexion is generally pale, this very circumstance supplies an additional iaterest; while the soft languor of their dark eyes, with their long eye-lashes, give many of these Creole ladies a very peculiar charm. Add to this, that it were difficult to find, in any part of the world, north or south, east or west, any ladies who better discharge their relative duties as daughters, wives, and mothers, than do our fellow-countrywomen in the British islands in the West Indian Archipelago. From Kingston the traveller may, if he pleases, have an opportu- nity of visiting Port Royal, where the chief of the Government works are situated. The sail is by excellent wherries, which perform the voyage with great regularity ; and the fare, (up or down,) which is fixed and determined by the Kingston authorities, is one shilling, which, for a distance of six or seven miles, is certainly moderate. This voyage is generally taken by the visitor to Kingston ; but it is not one I would advise the invalid to adventure on. In addition to the desire to see the Government works at Port Royal, I had this other inducement, that I anxiously wished to visit the spot where lie the remains of one of the best and earliest friends of my youth — the remains of the excellent and able Dr. Archibald Lang, M. D., for several years surgeon of the naval hospital at Port Royal j of whom it is truly said on the beautiful tablet erected to his memory by the naval and military officers then on the West Indian station, in Port Royal church, that — *' He was the good Samaritan, tho sick man's Comforter, and tho poor man's IViond." By one of those contingencies which strike tho mind from their 98 JAMAICA. ^t infrequency, I had, without any pre-arrangement, visited Lang's grave on the anniversary of his death. That day twenty years he had been called by his Maker to give an account of his stewardship, having died in consequence of a wound received in the discharge of his duty as hospital surgeon ; and now, twenty years afterwards, I, who had in early life enjoyed much of his favour and well-remem- bered kindness, stood by his gravestone for the first time. Good, worthy, excellent Dr. Lang ! it required not the anecdotes still told in this far-off place of your labours and repose ; nor the flattering tribute to your worth and memory in the Naval Reminiscences of Captain Scott ) nor even the handsome testimonial which your brother ofl&cers, of both services, have inscribed on your tombstone within the hospital gates, and again on the marble tablet on the walls of the church ; to inform me of the fact that you were indeed one of the Pilgrims of Mercy, or that — " Of first-rate talent in the healing art, Unwearied zeal, benevolence of heart; For rich, for poor, alike for high and low, Your philanthropic heart felt pity's glow. But it was delightful to know that your character was so justly estimated by those who had the means of knowing, and the capacity for appreciating, your many and varied excellences of head and heart. The church at Port Royal, in which is placed the beautiful tablet to the memory of my friend and relative, which I have above referred to, is worthy of a visit, were it only to observe the many tablets on its walls, inscribed with evidences of the destructiveness of yellow fever, which so often visits this part of the island. Port Royal, as some of my readers may be aware, stands on the extremity of a long, low, projecting, sandy point of land, which runs out from the side of the bay opposite Kingston, and which, by running across, (so as only to leave a neck as an entrance,) forms the bay or harbour of King- ston. Outside, the entrance to the harbour is obstructed, and in part protected, by a number of low sandy islets, which make the navigation somewhat difficult for sailing vessels, or during the dark- ness of night. And it is to this part of the island — Port Royal and its neighbourhood — that the reader may safely ascribe all that he may have read or heard of the unhealthiness of the climate of Jamaica. To talk of the island generally as unhealthy, is nothing short of a villainous scandal. It is quite the reverse. And I question if there are, in the whole limits of this fair world, more healthy loca- tions than are to be found among the lovely velvety vales, or amidst the mountain ranges and i ugged crags of Jamaica's fair isle. And were there only this one island in the whole surrounding sea, the sited Lang's Dty years he stewardship, I discharge of ifterwards, I, well-remem- iiroe. Good, otes still told the flattering niniscences of your brother bstone within le walls of the ed one of the (ras so justly 1 the capacity of head and }autiful tablet above referred my tablets on ess of yellow ort Royal, as lity of a long, >m the side of 3S, (so as only >our of King- 'ucted, and in ch make the ing the dark- )rt Royal and ) all that he Le climate of ly, is nothing ad I question healthy loca- les, or amidst ir isle. And ding sea; the CUBA. poet would have been only just when ho described the West Indies as being a place where " The breath of ocean wanders through their vales, In morning breezes and in evening gales. Earth from her lap perennial verdure pours, Ambrosial fruits and amaranthine flowers. Over wild mountains and luxuriant plains, Nature in all the pomp of beauty reigns." But the island is not all equally healthy ; and that Port Royal must be understood as excepted from the general character of salu- brity which the island deserves, most persons will be satisfied, in visiting the interior of the parish church in that place, and having his attention directed to the many tablets on its walls, commemo- rative of the ravages of yellow fever, and remembering it is the few who are thus chronicled, while the many lie in unmarked and unro- membered graves. I was particularly struck by one neat simple tablet, erected (as it bears) " by their sorrowing commander," to tho memory of three youths, of the respective ages of thirteen, fifteen, and sixteen years — all of them midshipmen belonging to tho same ship, and all of whom had fallen victims to yellow fever at Port Royal at about the same time. Poor boys ! they had chosen a gal- lant but a dangerous profession ; and had they fallen in the strife of contending ships, or midst the storms of elemental war, there would have been something so natural in their mode of erit from .d scene, that the mind might not have been so impresKvid with the hearing of it. But " They fell not in the battle's tug, or while their hopes wore high ; They sunk beneath the withering power of a scorching tropic sky." ^ CHAPTER VII. «' The Negro, spoiled of all that nature gave To free-bora man, thus sunk into a slave ; His passive limbs, to measured tasks confined, Obey the impulse of another mind — A silent, secret, terrible control, That rules his sinews and restrains his soul. Where'er their grasping arms the spoilers spread, The Negro's joys, the Negro's virtues fled." " Still, slavery ! thou art a bitter draught, Though thousands have been made to drink of thee." STHunt. A SAIL in the steamer, of somewhat less than four days, takes the traveller from Jamaica to the town of Havanna, in the island of Cuba, situated between north latitude 19° and 23°, and west longi- tude 74° and 85°. Cuba is the largest of the West Indian Islands, 100 CUBA. ml being not less than seven hundred miles in length, by about eighty miles of average breadth, covering an area of about thirty-six thou- sand square miles, and at present containing a population of nearly a million and a half. It was discovered by Columbus on 28th Oc- tober 1492, and enjoys the unfortunate distinction of having been the scene of the greatest of the cruelties perpetrated by his follow- ers on the unresisting natives. Columbus named it Ferdinando, or, as some say, " Juana," but it speedily regained its ancient Indian name of " Cuba." It is now, and has all along (with the exception of the occupation of it by Great Britain for about a year) been in the possession of Spain, and it is now the chief of her slave colonies. For this, and for other substantial reasons, to be immediately no- ticed, Cuba is at present a place to which much interest attaches, and towards which a good deal of public attention is drawn. ' The sail from Kingston, Jamaica, to the town of Havanna, in the island of Cuba, is along the south side of the first-named island — thence by the Grand Cayman, (a low sandy islet of considers .e extent, famous for the turtle that frequent it, and dangerous to mariners,) on the east end of which we could see a vessel stranded, and on her beam ends, the sea breaking over her at every return of the waves. On passing the Cayman, the sail lay along the coast of Cuba, round Point Antonio, and past the ledge of rocks called the CoUo- radoes, on which the very steamship in which I sailed — the Tay— had gone ashore and been very nearly lost only a very few years before. Enlivened as the scene on board the steamer was by a very varied and miscellaneous freight of passengers, many of them destined for California, and with so many objects in sight, from time to time, to interest and amuse and call telescopes into requisition, the pro- gress of time was scarcely remarked ; and it was with agreeable sur- prise that, about six o'clock of a very fine morning, on reaching the deck of the steamship, I found her entering the noble harbour of Havanna. Never will I forget the inspiriting nature of the beautiful scene. In point of formation, the harbour of Havanna has been justly described as being in shape like a trefoil, or shamrock— of which the entrance represents the stalk. This entrance is guarded by two seemingly very strong forts, named respectively the Punta and the Moro, standing on the right and left. Besides these two fortresses for protection, the harbour of Havanna is guarded by three other protective citadels, named respectively Cabanas, Principe, and Atares. At the time of my visit the harbour was crowded with shipping ; and so numerous and so various were the flags that were flying, that one might have supposed there were here marine repre- sentatives from all the nations of the world. I believe a similar scene presents itself here nearly at all times; and some idea of the num- HAVANNA. 101 ' about eighty lirtj-six thou- ion of nearly on 28th Oc- ■ having been by hia foUow- erdinando, or, icient Indian the exception year) been in slave colonies, mediately no- rest attaches, •awn. ivanna, in the med island — f considers .e dangerous to !ssel stranded, ery return of aast of Cuba, ed the Collo- — the Tay— ery few years was by a very them destined time to time, tion, the pro- igreeable sur- reaching the e harbour of the beautiful ma has been ihamrock — of 30 is guarded y the Punta es these two rded by three Principe, and srowded with gs that were narine repre- similar scene of the num- ber of ships frequenting the port of Havanna, (which is of course by far the largest sea-port in Cuba) may be gathered from the fact that the American tonnage alone, now employed in the trade with Cuba, is 476,773 tons. This is exclusive of the very large amount of British tonnage similarly engaged, and exclusive also of the tonnage of all the vessels from every other part of the globe. Indeed the study of the flags from the deck of the steamer was often a very amusing one. The British ensign, and the star and stripes of the United States of America, floated conspicuous and from many a mast-head. There were also many other well-known insignia of the " battle and the breeze ;" but there were also many which it passed my naval reminiscences to discover the country of, without inquiry or assistance — and sometimes despite of both. Landing at Havanna — or to give it the more sonorous name with which Spain has dignified it — landing on the quay of " La Siempre Fidelissima Ciudad de San Cristobal de la Habanna" — the first things to strike the stranger — at least if his landing be in the morning, previous to ten o'clock — will be the extreme noise, bustle, and acti- vity of the scene into which he is suddenly plunged. Noises of every description assa*^ his ears, sights of various kinds accost his eyes, and (last not least) odours of multifarious characters salute his olfactories ; and for these it is best he should be prepared. There- after, and after having called on such officials or other residents as he may have letters to, or has resolved to pay his respects to, (among the latter of whom will generally be the gentleman who now holds, so honourably and so usefully, the important office of Consul-general for Great Britain in the island of Cuba, and to whose personal kind- ness I rejoice to have this opportunity of paying a passing tribute;) the first act of the stranger should be to hire a volante or quitrin, and take a drive in and about the town of Havanna, getting, if possible, a friend acquainted with the locality to accompany him in his ride. These vehicles are numerous, and are to be obtained at and after the rate of something less than a dollar (from three to four " pesetas") an hour. The distinction between the volante and the quitrin consists simply in this, that while the hood of the former is immovable, the hood of the latter shifts up and down, so that it can be thrown back when the heat of the sun is not too intense. They constitute almost the only kind of carriage used in Cuba, and their use is nearly universal. So universal, that I question whether there is any one article a young Spaniard or Creole of Cuba would sooner name as one of the indispensables of gay life in Havanna. It is not easy to give in writ- ing a description of this unique but singularly graceful and pictu- resque vehicle, which will convey a graphic idea of its appearance to a reader ; and the aid of a draughtsman has accordingly been called in to assist the following attempt. It is hoped that the two 102 HAVANNA— THE VOLANTE, ETC. combined will give the reader a grapbic idea of the most appropriate and useful national yebicles to be found in any country in the world. The volante or quitrin of Havanna has the head of a phaeton, and is placed upon two wheels of at least six feet in diameter. These wheels again are situated far back^ at the very extremity of the shafts, the body of the carriage being suspended by leathern straps or springs, and placed so low, that the head of the traveller is never above, and is generally below, tho level of the upper section of the wheels. The shafts of the volante are very long, and the horse or mule (the latter species of animal being in most general use) is attached to the vehicle by traces ; the back band being fixed to rings placed at tho outer extremity of the shaft ; so that there is no portion of the shaft before the horse's shoulder — or, indeed, nearer thereto than the back part of the saddle, on which the driver rides en postillion. The shafts being very long, there is thus necessarily a long space between the croupe of the horse and the splash-board of the carriage. The object gained by this, as well as that secured by the universal prac- tice of plaiting and tying up the tail of the horse or mule, is protec- tion from mud in event of the roads being dirty. The volante, or quitrin, is generally drawn by one horse or mule j and, from the narrowness of the streets intra muros, it would be in- convenient to have more than one in very general use. This fact has given rise to the statement that, by police regulation, it is pro- hibited to drive more than one horse abreast in a volante within the walls of Havanna — a statement, however, for which there is no other foundation. Without the walls, and in the interior of the island, volantes are frequently seen with two and even three horses or mules abreast ; the second and third, if there be so many, being harnessed and attached to the carriage, outside the shafts, and much after the fashion known in Scotland under the term " outrigger." The con- ductor, called il calesero, is generally, if not always, a negro slave, and he rides on the horse or mule ; and, where more than one is used, the outrigger, or one of the outriggers, is the one selected for that purpose. At first sight, and looking to the size and position of the wheels, the extreme length of the carriage, the distance of the horse from his draught, and the top-weight of heavy silver-mounted harness, and of the rider, which the animal carries, the impression is that the volante, or quitrin, is a carriage which must be very heavy to draw. But the smallness of the mules and horses in gene- ral use, the distances travelled, and the speed at which they move, lead to the conclusion that this is a mistake. At all events, this carriage is certainly a kind of conveyance remarkably well suited to a country like Cuba, where the streets of the towns are ill-paved, ill- kept, and uneven, and the country roads in general miserably bad. The wheels being very wide apart, it is next to impossible to over- :'i HAVANNA— THE VOLANTE, ETC. 103 )st appropriate f in the world. 9, phaeton, and meter. These y of the shafts, raps or springs, ver above, and (f the wheels. 3 or mule (the attached to the } placed at the m of the shaft than the back )stillion. The space between sarriage. The miversal prac- lule, is protec- lorse or mule j t would be in- :se. This fact ition, it is pro- ite within the ere is no other of the island, orses or mules ing harnessed luch after the " The con- % negro slave, Q than one is le selected for id position of stance of the Iver-mounted le impression oust be very Drses in gene- h they move, 1 events, this veil suited to ill-paved, ill- iserably bad. 3ible to over- t i turn a volante ; and, being very high, the ruts and stones upon tho '■" do not much incommode the traveller. A he private quitrin is usually a very handsome affair — glittering in silver ornaments, as does also the harness and other accoutrements of the horse and rider. 3Iy London friend and fellow-traveller, Mr. D , formed a desire to transport one of them from tho Paseo Isabel in Cuba, to Hyde Park, London ; and; partly from curiosity, and partly to know what the experiment might cost, I inr^uired at various parties the price of such a vehicle, and found it to be some- where between £90 and £120, according to the amount of ornament. But, without the blacH calesew, and his rich but outre dress, the volante would lose half of its attractions. He seems as if he were " to the manner born j" and the inability of transporting him with the carriage^ " As slaves cannot breathe in England," ' was in itself a preventive to my enthusiastic friend carrying his intention into effect. Indeed, the private calesero is a very unique object. In dress a cross between an ofl&cer of the Haytian army and a French postilion, he is usually garbed in a very handsome livery, richly embroidered with gold or silver lace, and a black hat with gold or silver band. The dress consisting of a jacket made of scarlet, green, or purple cloth or velvet, with white knee-breeches, and black leather greaves, boots or gaiters, highly polished, orna- mented with silver, and coming nearly to a union with the shoe, but leaving at the front part of the foot a bare space, through which the black skin of the calesero displays itself. I did not observe a single instance in which the driver had stockings, but the black skin of the African had much the appearance of black silk ones. Such is the private quitrin or volante ; and it being considered a mark of wealth to change the vehicle and livery almost every year, while the old ones are sold for public conveyances, the volantes to be had on hire are just the tarnished dittos of those above described. For short distances the rate of hire is from three pesetas (sixty cents) to a dollar per hour. For longer distances, or where the vehicle is to be kept for several hours, a bargain should be made . I could not ascertain that there were any means of finding out the exact number of sach carriages at present in Havanna. They must, however, be very numerous. Almost every family of any note or means has its indispensable volante standing in the arched gateway, which thus forms at once the coach-house and the entrance to the dwellings, and ofttimes also the servants* hall ; and I find it stated in public returns that, at the census in 1827, the carriages, private as well as public, amounted to 2651. In -that year, the number of houses, taking those without as well as those within the .A in 104 VIEWS OF HAVANNA. I m^. Mi walls, was 11,639, (of which no less than 7968 were extra-mural.) Since that time the number of houses has increased very greatly, and (^particularly/ since the passing of the English Sugar Duties Bill in 1846) ihat of carriages has increased in a still greater ratio; so that, at preiient, it would be quits safe to estimate their number at considerably above three thousand. Nor will the estimate appear extravagant to any one who has seen the display of vehicles on the Paseo Isabel or Paseo Tacon, on a festive occasion. Besides the forts or citadels, to which reference has already been made, and into which it is very difl&cult for £i stranger to obtain ac- cess — so jealous is Spain in all things relating to her power — there are many objects of interest in the town of Havanna. But the first thing the visitor ought to do, should be to obtain one or two of the best general views to be had of the very unique but villainously odo- riferous city in which he finds himself for the first time. In the approach by sea, he has already had one of the finest views of it. There is another very favourite view to be had from a hill, named to me " Indio," which stands on the road between Kegla and Guana- tugo, on the side of the harbour opposite the town; and another looking back on the town from the road to Cerro, which is about three miles from Havanna. These views are all very fine, but they are all too distant for giving the visitor, on Ms immediate arrival, a bird's-eye view of the place. For this latter purpose, I advise a visit to the top of the hill on which stands the Cabanas fortress, which overlooks the town and harbour, and from which a very beau- tiful and very accessible general view of Havanna is to be had. To one who has never visited the tropics, it is difficult vo giv(3 a clear enough idea of the bright vividness with which each distinctive building and characteristic of a tropical town stands out in the clear liquid light, without any haze or smoke to interrupt the view. After obtaining a general view of the whole, the next thing should be to visit, in detail, the various objects of interest which the town con- tains : such as — the church in which mass was first performed in the island by Columbus and Lis followers in 1492; the cathedral; and the tomb therein where repose the ashes of the great Colon ; the Dominican church; the TMaza de Armas, in which is the residence of the Captain-general, as the governor of the island is called ; the Tacfyn theatre and the Paseo Tacon ; the Tacon prison ; the Campo Santo, or publio cemetery of Havanna; the Caza Beneticencia; the Valla do Gallos or cock-pits, &c., — devoting to each of them such a measure of time and attention as the tastes, professions and habits of the visitor maj/ dispose him to bestow. In the cathedral mass is performed every morning about seven or eight o'clock, and this is, therefore a favourable, as well as a favour- ite hour of the day for visiting it. It is an ancient building, with TOMB OF COLUMBUS. 105 extra-mnral.) 1 very greatly, Sugar Duties greater ratio; their number stiraate appear ehicles on the 3 already been r to obtain ac- power — there But the first or two of the llainously odo- time. In the t views of it. hill; named to a and Guana- ; and another vhich is about fine, but they late arrival, a ie, I advise a anas fortress, I a very beau- » be had. To ;o givo a clear ;h distinctive it in the clear 5 view. After should be to le town con- brmed in the iathedral; and Colon; the the residence s called ; the the Campo ficencia; the them such a QS and habits )out seven or as a favour- lilding, with nothing very striking or remarkable either in its style or construc- tion ; but it is at the same time a handsome and elegantly finished edifice. There are some pictures of merit on its walls ; in particu- lar, one pinall picture near the principal altar, and which has below it an inscription on a brp^s plate, descriptive of its claims on acount of its great antiquity, j.s well as of its excellence. On the right of the principal altar there is the marble tablet on the wall above the spot where lies what was mortal of him " Who scant-'d Columbia through the wave," This tablet is about six or ^ight feet square, and contains a highly relieved bust of the great Colon, bearing the image usually given as his likeness. Beneath the image is an inscription, which, of course, says nothing of the chains and imprisonments with which the grati- tude of Spain rewarded this man — the greatest of her benefactors, and the discoverer of a new world. The inscription is in these words — " O restos c imagen del grande rdon ! Mi siglos durad guard idos en la uma Y eu remombranza de nuestra uacion." Translation. " remains an imago of the great Columbus ! For a thousand ages continue preserved in this urn And in the remembrance of our nation." Columbus died in Spain, and his body rested for some time there; first in a convent at Yalladolid, and afterwards in a magnificent monument in the Carthusian monastery at Seville, erected to the memory of Columbus by King Ferdinand, and on which is recorded the fact that— - " To Castillo and to Leon A new world Columbus gave." In the year 1636 the justly venerated remains were, with great pomp and circumstance, removed from Seville, and transported to His- paniola or St. Domingo, then the chief possession of Spain in tho West Indian Archipelago ; but on the island of St. Domingo, or Hispaniola, being ceded to the French, the honoured remains were again, with pomp and array greater even than before, removed to the place where they now lir , in the cathedral of the city of Havanna. This last transition was completed on the 15th of January, 1796 ; and since then, the bones of the greatest of discoverers have remained undisturbed. Whether the last is to be their final migration, remains yet to be seen. Whether Spain is to retain Cuba, and Whether, in the event of her being induced or compelled to cede her possessioi of the island, these venerated relics of the discoverer of the New World will be allowed to rest iu the cathedral of Ilavanua; ore ii i 106 CUBA— SLAVE TRADE. questions which remain yet to be determined, but which will, in all probability, not remain much longer unresolved. I shall not here attempt to discuss the question of whether any justifiable effort could be made by the United States of America to possess herself of Cuba, by purchase or otherwise j or whether the American government would be acting wisely were it to make such an attempt ; or whether the debt, owing by Spain to Great Britain, would entitle the latter to forbid and prevent any such contract : but 1 am inclined to be- lieve, that Cuba would be a much better customer of England in the hands of our enterprising brethren of the New World, than she is at present in the hands of Spain ; and I will without hesitation affirm, that the loss of Cuba would only be a just retribution — an act of retributive justice — suffered by Spain, not only for her cruelties to the aborigines, but also for the dishonourable manner in which she has made use of her possession of this island to evade the perform- ance of her obligations contracted to and with England in the matter of the slave-trade. There can be no doubt of the fact, that during the last year the importation of slaves into the island of Cuba has been carried on in full vigour — so vigorously and extensively, that the price of slaves had fallen, in consequence of the plentiful supply, from four hundred and fifty or five hundred, to from two hundred and fifty to three hundred dollars. This fact is notorious, and I heard it authenticated by official authority. It is equally notorious in the island itself, that the agent of the Queen Mother of Spain was and is extensively engaged in the infamous traffic ; and it is more than suspected that, directly or indirectly, his royal mistress is a large participator in the heavy gains her agent realizes from this trade in human flesh. Indeed, the traffic is little short of being a legalized one : the amount of dollars payable to the governor or to the Government (for there is much difference between these two) being, if not fixed by law or order, at least as well understood as if it were so. All this is, of course, in direct and manifest violation of the engagements and treaties made by Spain with England ; and it is an ascertained fact that fully one-half of the slaves in Cuba are there held in abject bondage in violation of these solemn treaties and engagements. Indeed, were it otherwise, it were nearly impos- sible that the Spanish colonists of Cuba could find slaves to cultivate their fields. Every one who knows Cuba, and the brutal manner in which the great mass of the agricultural slaves are treated there, will laugh at the idea of the slave population of Cuba being self- Biipporting. Thanks to the lesson our Sugar Duties Bill of 1846 has taught them, the Cubans know well not only that slave labour is cheaper than free labour — so much cheaper that they can actually make, for seven or eight shillings per hundredweight, the sugar that costs the British^ Danish^ or French colonistS; at the very least, ten iinpor intere I adopti count] CUBA— SLAVE TRADE. 107 icb will, in all shall not here ble effort could erself of Cuba, Ln government )t ; or whether ititle the latter nclinod to be- England in the d, than she is isitation affirm, on — an act of ber cruelties to ' in which she le the perform- i in the matter st, that during [ of Cuba has tensively, that entiful supply, I two hundred IS, and I heard )torious in the Spain was and is more than ess is a large this trade in Qg a legalized nor or to the 30 two) being, stood as if it !t violation of gland ; and it in Cuba are )lemn treaties nearly impos- es to cultivate tal manner in treated there, pa being self- Bill of 1846 t slave labour ^ can actually he sugar that ery least, ten to twelve or fourteen shillings per hundredweight. But their know- ledge of the statistics of the trade does not stop here ; they also know that it is much cheaper to import slaves than to breed them. The planter in Cuba found this to be the case, even when the vigi- lance of the British and French cruisers had made si; ves so scarce in Cuba, that the price of an able-bodied one was fully five hundred dollare. Of course, now that such vigilance has been, for a time, at least, relaxed, and the price of slaves has fallen to from two hun- dred and fifty to three hundred dollars, the greater economy of keeping up the breed by importation is too plain to be overlooked. Hence it is that the idea of a self-supporting system saems to be quite out of the Cuban's calculations, and that in the barracoons on his estates there are often to be found numerous bands of males and but a very few females- or oftimes none at all. It has been said, and it is generally credited by intelligent parties resident in Cuba, that the average duration of the life of a Cuban slave, after his arrival in the island, doeo not exceed seven or eight years. In short, that he is worked out in that time. His bodily frame cannot stand the excessive toil for a longer period ) and, after that average period, his immortal spirit escapes from the tortured tenement of clay. Ye ex- tenuators of slavery and of the slave trade, ponder this ascertained fact. Is it not enough to make the flesh creep, and to unite all civilized mankind to put an end at least to the traffic in slaves ? Civilized men may reasonably differ in opinion as to how this is best to be accomplished — whether by treaties, commissions and blockad- ing squadrons, or by legislative measures having for their object the diminishing the heavy seductive profits now realizing from the pro- duce of slave cultivation and manufacture, or by a wise union Oi both. But surely one and cU must agree in the position, that *>. nobler work never was adventured on by any nation than the de- struction of the slave trade. For the present, Englai.! and France have the honour of standing almost alone in the furtherance of this great cause. It is to be hoped that neither of them will abandon their philanthropic labours, even although they may find it expedient to change the direction of iliam — to alter the modus operandi. It is the rather to bo hoped that their example will dispose the other great powers, who have themselves already wiped off tho stain of a participation in the slave trade from their national escutcheons, to follow the example, and join in the crusade. The United States of America, though they have not yet put an encl to slavery on their own soil, have, at all events, prohibited the importation of slaves into their ^Tnion, and have, therefore, every interest to move them to aid in compelling Spain and Brazil to tho adoption of the same course. Denmark not only preceded other countries in declaring the slave trade to bo piracy, but she has 108 CUBA— SLAVE TRADE. lately manumitted the slaves in her own colonics. And when, if ever, the standards of England and of France, the "stars and stripes" of the United States of America (do not " the stripes" sound ominously ?) and the national ensigns of Denmark and of Holland, are found zealously co-operating in this sacred cause of humanity, who can doubt but that this trade in humanfflesh, this gross violation of all natural right and law, would speedily be sup- pressed ? But even should England and France stand alone, it is to be hoped that they will not desert the cause. The absence of co-operation, may render expedient a change in the mode of carry- ing on the operations ; but there can be no cause either for deser- tion or for despair. Nature, and the God of Nature, are manifestly fighting on the same side ; and no one who has read the signs of human progress for the last century, but must see that slavery and the slave trade are among the things that are doomed to give way before the advancing light of the sun of civilization. As to the mode and time for putting an eno. to slavery, where it is interwoven with the institutions of the country, as is the case in the southern states of America, there may be some, there is much, diflGiculty j and I confess I am of those who think that some of the emancipa- tionistd of the United States, and of their brethren in England, have acted and are acting injudiciously, in the conduct by which they have attempted and are attempting to precipitate events in that country. But slavery in those countries into which the im- portation of slaves is not permitted, or secretly connived at, is but a modified slavery, compared with that which exists in countries into which there is such importation. Assuredly, then, the first step is to put an end to the traffic — to dry up the source of the supplies from without — ere we can expect either much to amelio- rate the condition of, or to strike the shackles from those who are within. Nor is it only by treaties that Spain and Brazil are bound to cease their illegal traffic in human flesh. England has paid them large sums of money as the condition of their doing so ; and these sums they have received and accepted, under the annexed and expressed condition. It has been unjustly said by some writers on the other side of the Atlantic — writers evidently in the pay of those who think it for their interest to prevent their country from sharing in the glory Great Britain has acquired and will acquire, by her efforts for suppressing and putting an end to the horrors of the slave trade — that Great Britain has no right to interfere with Spain and Ikazil, as regards this trade in their own colonies ; that slavery is a domestic institution, with which foreign nations have nothing whatever i.» do; and that, in debarring Spain and Brazil from the conduct of this traffic, the 13ritish lion is doing little more than acting the bully. Such writers forget the contract part of the 1 \ pro cole not CUBA— SLAVE TRADE. 109 And when, if be "stars and " the stripes" inmark and of icred cause of tnanlflesh, this peedily be sup- ind alone, it is 'he absence of mode of carry- ther for deser- are manifestly d the signs of lat slavery and id to give way n. As to the t is interwoven n the southern iich, diflBiculty; the emancipa- Q in England, duct by which itate events in which the im- lived at, is but iS in countries then, the first source of the ich to amelio- those who are azil are bound has paid them so ; and these annexed and ome writers on in the pay of country from will acquire, the horrors of interfere with colonies; that nations have in and Brazil ing little more let part of the matter. "Were England seeking, by threat or force of arms, to promote the emancipation of slaves within any country or any colony, large or small, there might be some foundation for the argument. As it is, there is none. She is only demanding and requiring that Spain and Brazil should do what they have promised and engaged to do, what they have been paid for doing, but what they have hitherto failed to perform. Happy is it for England that, in enforcing these claims, she is fighting in the sacred cause of humanity ; and happy will it be for the other powerful nations already referred to, if their rulers see it their duty, or their interest, to give their zealous co-operation in the same great and noble cause. Another argument 'against enforcing our slave treaties, which is not unfrequently used, particularly at home, is, that the effectual suppression of the slave trade is simply an impossibility. In other words that the profit acquired by the importation of a slave is just in proportion to the difficulty of importing him; and that human cupidity is such, that any amount of risk will be run, where there is the prospect of a proportionate gain. The corollary from this, of course, is, that the effect of sending out cruisers to put down the trade, is but to increase to the slaves the awful horrors of what is called the middle passage, by causing the slavors to be built small and low, and solely with a view to their sailing powers and capaci- ties, and without any regard to the health and comfort of the unfor- tunate slaves themselves. This argument is not unfrequently heard even in England. But (apart from the fact that it only touches one mode of suppressing the slave trade), its importance diminishes on investigation, and that for this simple reason, that there is a limit beyond which the price of a slave cannot go even in Cuba or Brazil. The slave-owner cannot aflford any price for a slave, or more than the prices he himself gets for his slave-grown produce enable him to give. This, then, fixes a maximum of the price to be received for the article to be imported. The cost of importation, on the other hand, just depends on the ex- tent of difficulty in the way. And in point of fact — and this is the practical answer — when the slave treaties were a few years ago better enforced, when the English and French preventive cruisers on the coast of Africa were more numerous and more vigilant, and conse- quently more successful, the price of slaves so rose in Cuba, that the demand for them greatly abated — seeing that at the price of impor- tation the planters could scarce afford to buy. This fact is indis- putable, and speaks volumes, and furnishes the best argument in favour of the position with which I conclude these remarks — intro- duced hero par jmrcnthhe — that justice, duty, interest, and humanity, call upon Great Britain to enforce the shave treaties, and that it were 10 110 HAVANNA— FRANCISCAN CHURCH. just and noble, and a wise policy in the United States, as well as in the governments of France, Denmark, and Holland, to unite with England in the sacred cause. Besides, it is not only, or even chiefly, by means of preventive squadrons that the Spanish and Brazillian slave trade is to be eflFectually suppressed. Great Britain and France have other effective measures within their reach ; and of these some mention will be made in an after part of this book. But to return to the celebrities of Havanna. The church in which Columbus first had mass performed, when he landed at Cuba in 1492, is not interesting in any way, save because it enjoys the distinction referred to. In the Dominican church, the only object that struck me was one common enough in churches in Catholic countries, being an altar-piece where the scene of the " Marys at the crucifixion" is represented by highly-relieved, tawdrily-dressed female figures, one of them having a crown on, and both exhibiting all the appearances or signs of the deepest agony and woe. At the time of my first visit to this fashionable place of Roman Catholic worship in Havanna, there were a number of devotees performing their devotions around the shrine or altar-piece in question, which, an inscription tells the visitor, was erected by special authority from a Pope Pius. In the dim cathedral light the eyes of the waxen figures seemed to be liquid with real tears, and their bosoms to swell and heave beneath the yellow satin, with real heart-rending sighs ; while on the cheeks of some of the worshippers who knelt around, there were the evidences of sincerity and of genuine sorrow. I confess I cannot view a scene like this without emotion ; and while my calmer reason docs deeply deplore the fact that such devotion should be elicited by the exhibi- tion of a mere semblance of human woe, I cannot refuse my respect, where the sincerity of the act is so apparent, much less could I "curse the shrine" where so many devout worshippers kneel to heaven. There is another church, or at least a building which was once a church, in Havanna, which I deem worthy of notice, as it affords me an opportunity of recording a characteristic anecdote. On passing through one of the narrow streets of this town of strange scenes, handsome buildings, but unsavoury smells, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the British Consulate, I observed an inscription over the door of a large building, which ran thus — " La Commissaria de obras de Fortificacion." Struck with the church-like appearance of the edifice, (despite its built-up windows,) and surprised that a consecrated building should, by so pricst-riddan a people, be made a storehouse for warlike commodities, I made some inquiry on the subject; and, learning that the building was called the " Church of the Fran- ciscans;" my previous knowledge of some passages of Cuban his- Cat the HAVANNA-FRANCISCAN CHURCH. Ill f as well as in to unite with r even chiefly, and Brazillian in and France of these some lurch in which Cuha in 1492, he distinction }t that struck mntries, being crucifixion" is ;e figures, one le appearances f my first visit p in Havanna, motions around ption tells the Pius. In the 3d to be liquid re beneath the the cheeks of the evidences t view a scene n does deeply >y the exhibi- le my respect, 30uld I "curse heaven, ch was once , as it affords 3te. this town of mells, and in e, I observed 1 ran thus — ice, (despite ted building orehouse for abject; and, f the Fran- ■ Cuban his- tory enabled me to understand the nature and cause of the transi- tion from a Roman Catholic church to a military storehouse. The state religion in Cuba is, of course, that of the Roman Catholic church ; and, true to its natural policy, that church has there succeeded in getting liberty of public worship denied to all creeds save its own. But after the storming of the town and for- tress of Havanna, by the British expedition under Lord Albe- marle, in 1762, his lordship, as governor, demanded of the Roman Catholic bishop that he should set aside one of the churches for the Protestants to worship in ; and a somewhat amusing corres- pondence ensued between Lord Albemarle and the reverend bishop 01 the subject. The bishop, if he did not explicitly refuse, at least diplomatized and evaded the demand, till brought to the point by the intimation from Lord Albemarle that, if a church was not assigned, " I shall take that which seems to be most suitable." This produced a reply, that since he, Lord Albemarle, " had so resolved, he might take whatever church he chose ;" and it would be only prejudice to deny that, in this reply, there was much both of dignity and simplicity. The British governor took the bishop at his word. He chose the Church of the Franciscans ; and during the one year's occupation of the island by Britain, and till the restitution of it to Spain in 1763, public worship, according to the forms of the Protestant Church of England, was regularly per- formed in the Franciscan church of Havanna. Then, of course, it was restored to Spain with the rest of the island, in accordance with that extra liberal and lavish policy which has so often guided British councils, leading at one time to the expenditure of great amounts of blood and treasure in the acquisition of territory, (wit- ness in these seas Martinique, Guadaloupe, St. Thomas', and Cuba,) and the almost free surrender, or gift of them, back to the powers whence they were taken. Since that restitution of the island to Spain, the church of the Franciscans has ceased to be used as a church. Is its disuse to be ascribed to its supposed contamination by the heretics ? One is almost irresistibly tempted to apply the post hoc propter 7ioc style of argument to such a case j and no one who has personally witnessed the light-obstructing spirit evinced by the Romish church, in such a dark spot as the isle of Cuba, where she is alone and triumphant in her domination, and is allowed the most ample scope for her pasos* and other ceremonials, will think the deduction an extravagant or an unjust one. At all events, the fact is as I have described it. The church selected by • A paso is tlio name given in Spain to the idol figures bonio along in the reli- gious processions. The paso, however, strictly speaking, means only the figure of our Savioiu', during his Tassion. Such processions and pasos aio numerous in Cuba. ' I: 112 CUBA— JUDICIAL SYSTEM, ETC. Lord Albemarle as a place for Protestant worship, is now used by Spain as a government storehouse — " La commissaria do obras de fortificacion." It may seem a contradiction to the character above assigned by me to the island of Cuba, as the seat both of a civil and a religious despotism, that there should be a considerable number of newspa- pers published in Ilavanna. But such is the fact. Indeed, it is a somewhat anomalous circumstance connected with the history and present state even of the mother-country of Spain, that, notwith- standing her literary deficiencies and state of ignorance, of which so much has been written, newspapers appear to flourish greatly both in Spain and her colonies. In Madrid there are no fewer than thirteen daily papers — being nearly as great a number as is published even in London ; and some of these, such as the Hcraldo, Clamor Publico, &c., have a very large circulation. But the news- papers of Havanna are most of them of small size, and much filled with advertisements ; amongst which those ofiering negroes, some- times female negroes with infant children, to be sold " with or without the child," will strike the mind of an Englishman with anything but an agreeable feeling. These papers are likewise all under a very strict and rigorous censorship — so strict that the wonder is that there should be so many, and that they are so good as they are. The island of Cuba sends deputies to the Spanish Cortes at Ma- drid — Spain, like republican France, having in this respect adopted a course which many think, and the writer amongst the number, might be very advantageously followed in regard to the colonies of Great Britain. Besides the advantage of having colonial interests represented at h le by parties nominated by the colonists them- selves, and in wuose fairness of representation the colonists repose confidence, there could not surely be a better mode of making our colonial brethren practically aware that they are, as they are en- titled to be, regarded as an integral part of the empire. Much might be written on this subject; but it were out of place to con- tinue it here — and therefore to return to Cuba. The Governor or Captain-general of Cuba may be said to enjoy nearly despotic power. Indeed I was assured by a very accomplished travelling Spaniard, whom I had the pleasure of meeting in Cuba, and whose society I afterwards enjoyed during my voyage thence to America, that the present Governor (Roncali, Count of Alcoy) exer- cised his power here in a way more completely despotic than the head of the monarchy of Spain could, or at least does do, in the mother country. This gentleman, himself a member of the legal profession, assured me that he was by numbers of his own body in- formed that Koncali had^ since his arrival in the island, constituted CUBA— JUDICIAL SYSTEM, ETC. 113 I now used by ia do obras de '^e assigned by nd a religious ler of newspa- Indeed, it is a be history and that, notwith- nce, of which aurish greatly ! are no fewer I number as is s the Hcraldo, But the news- ad much filled Degrees, some- sold " with or glishman with re likewise all trict that the ey are so good Cortes at Ma- espect adopted ; the number, the colonies of onial interests Zionists them- )lonists repose making our they are en- npire. Much place to con- said to enjoy accomplished Bting in Cuba, jrage thence to f Alcoy) exer- otic than the oes do, in the : of the legal own body in- d, constituted I j ! himself as a supreme tribunal, having jurisdiction exclusive of, or co-ordinate with, that of all the other courts in the island, and com- petent to the adjudication of all kinds of cases. I had not the op- portunity of witnessing his Excellency's freaks in this so-called sum- mary court of justice ; but if half what I heard of it were true, it must be a strange sight, in a civilised country, to see a comparatively illiterate soldier professing to decide, of his own knowledge and judg- ment, and after a few minutes, chiefly occupied by his own laying down of the law, questions involving intricate facts, disputed rights, and important principles. The defendant is summoned to the Go« vernor's presence by a small writ, which contains no explanation save that a claim is made upon him by a party named ; and it is said that — as indeed in some courts in more civilised, or at least freer countries — le plaintiff, the person who first applies for Count Roncali's aid, has always the best chance. Such is an account of the " private courts of the Captain-general of Cuba," as it was com- municated to me on the spot. It is, however, only fair to add, that previous governors did something of the same kind, and also that other writers seem not to have regarded this secret tribunal, and its summary mode of procedure, in the same objectionable light as is here done. A late writer on Spain, when treating incidentally of her colonies, remarks, with reference to Cuba, that " the Go- vernor gives audiences to the inhabitants in private disputes — a patriarchal procedure, by which much litigation is avoided" ! I In the ordinary courts of the island, the judicial proceedings are conducted in writing, viva voce pleading being almost, if not wholly, unheard-of. The fees of the lawyers depend upon the length of the written pleadings, and the judges are also paid by fees. The law in use is, of course, that of the mother country of Spain, based, like that of Scotland, on the Code Justinian. The law of bankruptcy also seemed to me, from what I could learn of it, to be not very dissimilar, in principle at least, to that of Scotland. Tho affairs of a bankrupt are arranged, generally, under a concurso voluntario y preventivo, which seems a kind of trust-deed, by which the bankrupt is deprived of all power of alienating, or making away with his estate and effects to favoured creditors, or confident parties, to the prejudice of the general body. Another mode of winding up a bankrupt estate is by what is called a " cession de biennes," which seemed in reality, as well as in name, to be some- thing like the Scotch deed of cessio bonorum, whereby a debtor yields up everything to a trustee for the general behrof of his cre- ditors, on condition of getting a discharge, which discharge emanates from the court. Such is the nature of the ordinary tribunals of justice in the island of Cuba: but, of course, Count Roncali's "patriarchal" 10* lU CUBA— SLAVERY. jurisdiction, as it is exclusive of these, so it sets itself above the principles which restrain the regularly trained judges. It is also said, and universally credited, that the present Captain- general views the slave trade with an indulgent eye. At all events, it is indisputable that the importation of slaves into the island, •which fell off greatly under the influence of England, and the ac- tivity of the English cruisers, during the latter years of the dynasty of the late governor, (Count O'Donnel,) has of late years, and since the Count of Alcoy assumed the reins of government, received a fresh impetus, and is now flourishing in fullest vigour. How far the Governor is personally concerned in the production of this result, it were next to Impossible to ascertain exactly ; but assured- ly his correspondence with the representative of Britain in the island, as to the landing of slaves, in the course of which the Bri- tish Consul-general offered to give his Excellency ocular evidence of the truth of his informant's story — that slaves had been lately landed from a slaver, and were then in course of sale — does not indicate any desire either to suppress the traflGic or to keep faith with Britain. Indeed, it is publicly affirmed that a regularly fixed fee (some fifty dollars a-head) is exacted by the Governor on each slave that is brought in, besides sundry other fees to the captain of the port or harbour-master, and other officials, who have the power of prevention more or less in their hands. In short, the system is a complete one, and completely inoculated into the principles of Cuban government. No doubt, a semblance of respect for the solemn treaties made with Britain, and for the entering into which Spain has been paid, is kept up in the island. The barbarian victims of the inhuman slave trade are exposed to sale not as slaves, but as "goods" or "merchandise," (bultos,) and some such farce is occasionally exhibited a^ this : — A few of the imported slaves — such of them as are sick, disabled, infirm, or likely to die, and of course are of little or no value — are taken possession of by Govern- ment authority, and an attempt is made to " throw dust in the eyes of the English," by making a noise about the matter, and formally delivering up the miserable wretches, thus " seized," as slaves imported into Cuba, in violation of the solemn treaties made by Spain with England — much being vaunted, at the time, of Spanish honour and national good faith. If anything could make mat1>ers worse than the real disregard of the treaties, it would be conduct such as this — hypocrisy added to dishonesty, and the whole veiled in high-sounding words. And yet such pretended seizures and deliveries are often taking place. One had occurred only a few days before I reached Cuba, the number then seized b3iug under twenty; while the known number of slaves actually introduced into the island, during that and the previous month, < CUBA— SLAVKRY. 115 tself above the es. resent Captain- At all events, nto the island, od, and the ac- i of the dynasty rears, and since ent, received a ;our. How far iuction of this )r ; but assured. Britain in the which the Bri- ocular evidence bad been lately sale — does not • to keep faith regularly fixed )vernor on each the captain of have the power t, the system is [e principles of •espect for the ring into which The barbarian le not as slaves, ne such farce is )orted slaves — to die, and of of by Govern- ow dust in the le matter, and " seized,** as n treaties made the time, of ng could make es, it would be lesty, and the uch pretended had occurred er then seized laves actually evious month, .s I % had not been less than four thousand, and while the average rate of present import is not under two thousand per month. Oould any one, who has personally ascertained the truth of trans- actions and occurrences such as those before recorded, feel much regret were Cuba to pass out of the hands of Spain into those of the United States Government, or of any other civilized country which would keep better faith. If Cuba is to be ceded or bought at a cheap rate, Gr6at Britain has unquestionably a much better right to her than any other power; and it were perhaps unjust, and, therefore, a thing England would not permit, were Spain to treat with any other country for the sale of Cuba, without first making payment of, or provision for, a large part of her debt to Great Britain. But the possession of Cuba by England were a matter more to be hoped for than to be expected. England had Cuba once, and generously (per- haps Quixotically) gave it back again to Spain. And to reacquire the possession, either by purchase or otherwise, would seem to be contrary to the general course of that policy which is now, and which has for a long time been pursued by our noble country ; for certainly, and particularly after the experience of late events in India, no one can justly accuse England of an undue thirst for territorial acquisi- tion. But I could not personally hear the grandiloquence of Spanish authorities in Cuba, or their contemptuous indifierence to the treaties made with Great Britain, without almost wishing that some other power would step in, and obtain possession of the ioland. Were the United States of America to do so — and there is little doubt but the late secret expedition showed that the leaning of the popular mind was such that " the people," at least, would not be very scrupulous about the modus acquirendi — it would look something like retribu- tive justice, inasmuch as it would be the descendants, at least, of the country with which Spain has not kept faith, who would then be the instruments of avenging the deception. Without professing any extravagance of afiection for America or Americans, or thinking them, as a nation, either so far advanced or so great as they think themselves, I confess I do regard them as infinitely nearer to our- selves by blood, and tongue, and tie of every kind, than any other nation on the face of the earth. No doubt, there are serious objections to the acquisition of Cuba by the United States of America. In the first place, there is the important want of a causa belli to justify anything like a forcible seizure. In not making with Spain such treaties as England has done, and covenanting with her for the suppression of the slave trade, and paying her money as the price of her consent, America has deprived herself of a justifying cause for warlike proceedings against Cuba, which she might now have turned to very good account. In the second place, a successful arrangement for the sale of Cuba from 116 CUBA— SLAVERY. Ml i'iJI Spain to America, not only labours under the little less than certainty of the powerful veto of England and France, but presumes that the cautious Yankee would pay Spain a much larger price for the posses- sion than the island would be worth to himself. Spanish writers on Cuba call it the brightest jewel in the Spanish crown. Whether it be a jewel or not, (and it may be so, were the fable true which makes each toad the possessor of a jewel,) Cuba is at least Spain's richest colonial possession, and a source of a great part of her reve- nue. The value of Cuba to Spain is but little known to those who deem the acquisition of it by the United States, by a transaction of sale and purchase, a matter of probability. Cuba contains a super- ficies of thirty-seven thousand square miles ; and a better idea of the extent of it will be formed by the Englishman, when he is reminded of the fact, that England (exclusive of Scotland) does not contain above 58,335 square miles. The present population of Cuba is esti- mated at 1,400,000— consisting of 610,000 whites, 190,000 free people of colour, and 600,000 slaves. Each of these slaves is worth from three hundred to three hundred and fifty dollars — making the gross value of the whole between one hundred and eighty and two hundred and ten millions of dollars, or (estimating the dollar at four shillings) between £36,000,000 and £42,000,000 sterling. Again, the value of exports from Cuba during 1848 was within a trifle of twenty-eight million of dollars, or £5,600,000 sterling ; its imports during same year being 32,389,119 dollars. In the same year, the '.umber of arrivals of ships at Cuban ports was 3740, and of depart ures 3310. Already there are nearly two hundred miles of railroad finished in the island, and above fifty miles more in course of being n\ade. Indeed, the first railway laid down in the West Indies was laid down in Cuba. This railroad was originally formed to connect the capital Havanna, with the town of Guines, which is distant about twenty-five miles, through a smooth and fertile country. This rail- way is now connected with San Carlos de Matanzas, one of the prin- cipal seaports of the island, and a prosperous, though as yet but small town. Other branches connect the same railway with other parts of the coast ; and thus the whole length of railway already open is about one hundred and ninety-five miles. The engineer of the original line from Havanna to Guines was a Mr. Alfred Cruger, of America, but the capital was English, being negotiated for in Lon- don by Mr. Alexander Robertson. The nominal capital was about half a million, but, being negotiated for at a high percentage, it did not produce more than about £340,000. There are also several steamers plying between the diflFerent ports of the island, and, in particular, steamers from Havanna to Matanzas, (a sail of about fifty miles ;) and also steamers to Cardenas and St. Juan de Eemedios, calling at intermediate places; 'besides a ferry steamer between Iian certainty imcs that the 'or the posses- ish writers on Whether it ie true which least Spain's \, of her reve- to those who transaction of itains a super- :er idea of the e is reminded s not contain f Cuba is esti- 190,000 free ilaves is worth — making the ghty and two dollar at four rling. Again, thin a trifle of f ) its imports ame year, the md of depart es of railroad urse of being st Indies was 3d to connect distant about r. This rail- e of the prin- h as yet but ay with other r already open gineer of the ed Cruger, of for in Lon- tal was about mtage, it did also several land, and, in of about fifty le Remedios, mer between \ CUBAN STATISTICS. 117 Ilavanna and Rcgla, on the opposite side of the harbour of Havanna. To this add that, while the island is very fertile, and yields largely, even at present, and under deficient culture, there is not above two- fifths of it cultivated j and not only is there a very large tract of fertile country uncultivated, but even many of those parts which are incapable of culture are covered with forests of mahogany, cedars, and a great variety of tropical and other woods of the most valuable kind. Cuba also contains valuable copper mines, which are now worked, and which are capable of being worked to much greater advantage and extent. These details may be useful to the party who wishes to form an opinion as to the probability of a compact between Jonathan and Don Hidalgo of Spain, for the sale and purchase of the island of Cuba, about which so much is said. It also explains, in some mea- sure, how it happens that Cuba is able to supply so liberally the Royal Exchequer of Spain, as to acquire for herself the more appro- priate than elegant title of " The milch-cow of Spain." Of course it is the fact that, by permitting the importation of slaves, a sufficient supply of good cheap labour is obtained, that makes Cuba so valuable a possession to Spain ; and equally of course, were America to acquire Cuba, the nefarious source of gain must cease. For although the United States of America have not yet followed the example of Great Britain, by the emancipation of the slaves within her territory — and it must in candour be admiitted that there still exist great difficulties in the way of her doing so — yet she has long ago blotted out participation in the slave trade from among her national delinquencies ; and it is not to be thought of, that she would go back upon her onward course so far as to permit the importation of slaves into any part of her dominions or pos- sessions. Indeed, an attempt so to do would cost that which a true American most dreads — would cost the Union itself. A legalising of slave traffic by America, in any way, would inevitably lead to the dismemberment of the Union. The free States unqi::ostionably would not endure it. Even were she to get Cuba, America would get it under implied pledges, destructive of its value as a place of production. But while, for the above reasons, I neither think it likely Ame- rica will buy Cuba, nor have the same horror that some express at the idea of her taking it, I also differ from those who think that the possession of Cuba by the United States would strengthen the hands of the supporters of the slave system in America itself, and procrastinate or prevent the settlement of that question — the great national question of the American continent. If it did, the pos' session would he to America herself a curse instead of a blessing. But my conviction is, that it would just leave the slave question 118 CUBAN STATISTICS. ^f" where it is ; while, at the same time, it would eiFectually put an end to the traffic iu slaves — at least in so far as Cuba was concerned — and thereby prevent and put an end to much of the injurious com- petition to which the produce of our own colonists (which is suppled by means of free labour) is exposed, by the nefarious conduct of the Spanish c jlonist in supplying himself with the cheapest of all labour, and that by means of the violation of the treaties made by his country with Great Britain. That slave labour — at least when there is a mart out of which the ravages made by excessive toil may be supplied — is much cheaper than free labour, is now an as- certained fact — ascertained in the best of all ways — by actual expe- rience of the consequences.* So long as the Spanish colonist finds it cheaper to steal slaves or to buy them, knowing them to have been stolen, (which is nearly the same thing,) he will never breed them. It is idle to expect that he will. It is quite notorious that the slave population of Cuba is almost entirely supported by im- portation of slaves from the coast of Africa ; and that the average duration of the life of a slave, after he arrives in che island of bondage, does not exceed seven or eight years : while it is equally well known that his cheap labour has been supplied to the Span- ish colonist (at the expense of the British colonist whose produce is depreciated by it,) since the year 1820 — and in manifest, open outrage and defiance of the treaty made in 1817 between the governments of Great Britain and of Spain, whereby his Catholic Majesty engaged that the slave trade should be abolished through- out the entire dominions of Spain, on the 30th of May 1820; and that from that period it " should noi be lawful for any of the sub- jects of the crown of Spain to purchase slaves, or to carry on the slave trade on the coast of Africa vpon any pretext or in any man- ner whatever." The sixth article of this treaty is as follows; — " His Catholic Majesty will adopt, in conformity to the spirit of this treaty, the measures which are best calculated to give full and complete effect to the laudable objects which the high contracting parties have in view." How this treaty has been kept the historic muse will tell, to the immortal honour of that England which has been so long foremost in every work of humanity, and to the eter- nal disgrace of Spain : recording, as she must do, the signal, and at one time nearly successful efforts of England to suppress the traffic, and her expenditure of blood and treasure in her persever- ing endeavours so to do ; and the base deceptive conduct of Spain in violating her solemn engagement, by permitting above thirty thousand Africans, (on a general average,) ♦crn from their homns, to be annually imported into Cuba and Porto llico alone, and there sold as slaves. It is not easy for one but lately come from visiting such scenes, and from viewing their disastrous effects on mgs w CUBA— AMERICAN AJQUISITION. 119 illy put an end as concerned — injurious com- hich is suppled ous conduct of cheapest of all reaties made by —at least when y excessive toil r, is now an as- -by actual expe- ih colonist finds g them to have n\\ never breed ) notorious that ipported by im- hat the average n the island of lile it is equally ed to the Span- b whose produce manifest, open 7 between the sby his Catholic dished through- May 1820 ; and any of the sub- to carry on (lie or in any man- as follo^Ns; — to the spirit of to giycfuU and gh contracting ept the historic and which has ind to the eter- the signal, and ,0 suppress the n her persevcr- nduct of Spain g above thirty m their homes, lico alone, and tely come from ■ous effects on the condition of the hon«.st, upright^ and intelligent British planter in our own colonial possessions in the West Indies, to write with temper of such matters. And again, I sul)mit it to the public of my native country, that were Spain's debt lo England, and for re- payment of which Cuba may be considered as part of the security, duly provided for and secured, there is little or no interest which could or should prevent England from viewing the occupation of Cuba by our brethren of the United States of America with feel- ings of complacency. For the honour of America herself, such occupation, if it is to be gone about, should be gone about only on some justifying cause, or by a legitimate transaction of sale ; and any gross violation of justice or tae hw of nations in the matter might justify or require the intervention of England, or the other powers of Europe in alliance with Spain, to forbid the bans be- tween the United States and Cuba. But so far as interest is con- cerned, and apart from the question that Cuba forms part of the security for Spain's debt to Great Britain, interest to prevent American annexation England has none. * I am aware that other writers have expressed themselves differently, but I cannot see the grounds of their opinions j and I know that there are in England persons who entertain an unworthy jealousy towards America, just as there are in the United States a great number of illiterate pre- judiced persons, chiefly composed of renegade sons of Great Bri- tain herself, who entertain unworthy and jealous feelings towards England. But such parties should be excluded from the consider- ation of the good, the true, and the well-informed, on both sides of the Atlantic ; and while I have long known that the body of intelligent men in Great Britain look with extreme interest on the rapid advancement in knowledge, in art, and in science, of the young republic of America — remembering the source whence they sprang, and feeling anything but regret that, actuated by the feel- ings which animated their sires, they effectually resisted the tyranny of the government of the nipther country — I ah^o know that there arc a vast number of intelligent, enlightened Ameri- cans, who look with friendly feelings towards England, and rcgrtrd with pride and pleasure, not only their descent from her, and their common origin with her, but also the many matchless institutions which England possesses, and iier noble efforts in the great cause of humanity. An American friend of my own, an officer of the Aiuerican navy, whom I met with when at St. Kitt's and again at Santa Cruz, expressed the same feeling strongly to me in conver- sation when he said, " You are going to my country, sir ; and, wbep travelling, you may hear much nonsense talked of England aid An erica, and their feelinjis and position as rejrards each other; l)ut, tak»> my word for it, if America would ever like to see the 120 CUBA— AMERICAN ACQUISITION. Old Country embroiled in a war with all the rest of Europe, it would only be because it would afford her an opportunity of step- ping in to her relief, and fighting upon England's side." On an- other occasion, an intelligent Bostonian remarked to me at Niagara, that certainly the States were more jealous of insult from England than from any other country in the world. I asked why, assuring him that no intelligent man in England reciprocated this feeling ; and his candid answer was, " Because, I suspect, we respect Great Britain more than "we do any other country, and next to our- selves." Sincerely do I trust that my naval friend will never have the opportunity of. showing his or his country's aflFection for Great Britain in the manner he so characteristically indicated. But I think there is much truth in the Bostonian's courteous ex- planation ; and I deem it simply an act of justice, and of grati- tude for the many kindnesses I received when in the United States of America, to record whatever fact is likely to tend to promote friendly relations between two countries which stand almost in the relationship of parent and child. And most sincerely honest am I in stating it to be a conviction formed, even after travelling through the length and breadth of the United States, that there is among the intelligence of America a much kindlier feeling towards Great Britain than is generally believed in this country. Even if America gets Cuba, the possession may not be very valuable to herself (whatever it is under the present system to Spain ;) but her doing so will, at all events, put an end to the slave trade, in so far at least as the importation of slaves into Cuba is concerned. And who doubts but that the system of slavery itself runs a chance of much more speedy abolishment at the hands of free and enlightened America, than at the hands of bigoted and ensiaved Spain ? Even the Southern planter, who most dreads emancipation — even the champion of that party which most opposed emancipation — even Colonel Hayne himself, who has in Congress most loudly, and I confess I think with some justice, complained against the conduct of the apostles of the Emancipationist party, who — " Fire in each eye, and paper m each hand Declaim and preach throughout the land," scattering firebrands among a people ready to be excited to vio- lence — even parties such as these carry their arguments against emancipation no fiirther than this, that the proper time for it has not yet come. None of them, that I ever heard, say that the time is never to come. All they contend for is delay to prepare the country, the institutions, and the people for the change; and that in some sort of way it should be a gradual one In short, all parties in P^ngland and America seem to agree in this, that slavery as a system CUBAN LADIES. 121 }t of Europe, it rtunity of step- side." On an- I me at Niagara, t from England i why, assuring ed this feeling ; '^e respect Great d next to our- iend will never y's affection for cally indicated. ,'s courteous ex- e, and of grati- le United States ;end to promote id almost in the erely honest am after travelling ;es, that there is ■ feeling towards untry. ay not be very Bsent system to end to the slave ves into Cuba is of slavery itself le hands of free ed and enslaved emancipation — emancipation — lost loudly, and inst the conduct excited to vio- uments against time for it has ly that the time to prepare the ge; and that in rt, all parties in ,'ery as a system has received its death-blow, although it is not yet extinct in the United States; and confident do I feel, from personally witnessing the feeling, both of the northern and southern States ; hearing in- fluential senators and others talk of it, and reading the local papers on both sides when on the spot, that a distinct, emphatic denial of this truth, on the part of the South, would lead to the mooting of the question of a "Repeal of the American Union." But to return to Cuba, and to the scenes of this unique town of Havanna, with its narrow streets, and gay promenades, drives, and inhabitants. The Plaza de Armas is a public square near the quays, in which is situated the town mansion of the Captain-general or Governor of the island. Though not large, it is very pretty and effective, being planted with trees, paved in the centre and towards the outside with broad flags, ar*^. surrounded with benches. Nearly every evening, and especially on Sunday evenings and holidays, and other days of special commemoration, there is a large concourse of the inhabitants assembled here, to listen to the magnificent music which is poured forth by the military bands, which attend for the purpose in front of the Captain-general's house. During my stay, there happened the anniversary of the birthday of the Queen-mother of Spain, and the public gaieties and rejoicings were on a scale of commemorative splendour proportionate to the importance of the event, or the Spaniard's notion of it. I therefore not only saw the Plaza de Armas, and also the Paseo Isabella Secunda, and other places of public resort, in their usual, but likewise in their holiday attire; and the scene was certainly a very gay and brilliant one. In the forenoon there was a levee at the house of the Captain-general, in which uniforms of scarlet, green, purple, and nearly every shade of colour, enriched with as much gold and silver as could be stuck upon them, contended for the mastery. I confess, however, that it struck me that the uniforms were much more gorgeous than tasteful, and that some of the grandees who figured in them looked much more like " flunkies" than senators or general officers. Add to this the unusual number of men of small stature, and that (as not unfre- quently happens) the most insignificant in point of size were gene- rally the most ledizcned with uniform and orders, and the reader will see that the drawing-room of the Governor-general of Cuba did not impress me with very high notions eitht. o*' Spanish stature or Spanish taste. But the remark only applies to the lordly portion of Cuban creation. It were the grossest injustice to apply it to the ladies. Indeed, it is only the simple truth to say that I was wholly unprepared for the beautiful forms and noble countenances of tho Cuban ladies. For dark eyes, liquid in their lustrous light, and those long eyelashes which give so soft a radiance to the glance of a 122 HOUSES OF HAVANNA. ill li; fair Italienne, and for raven tresses, I was somewhat prepared ; but certainly not for the full forms and handsome countenances these Creole ladies of Cuba so generally display. No doubt they want that freshness of complexion to be found in more northern climes ; but they have full figures, well-developed busts, noble countenances, and eyes of the most brilliant softness. Indeed there is about the ladies of Cuba an appearance of health which is somewhat at vari- ance with the ascertained fact that they seldom, if ever, take any amount or degree of exercise, farther than a drive to the Paseo or to the shops and stores, or cafes, (where they are served, sitting in their carriages,) in the indispensaole volante. Yet, with all this indo- lence — with us so certain an inducer of bad health — the ladies of Cuba have a breadth of shoulder and a fullness of bust which rival even those of the Norman beauty of England, and which the travel- ler will look for in vain among the fairy forms to be seen in the United States of America. In part explanation of this acknow- ledged fact, I have heard or read a reference made to the open nature of the houses in Havanna, and to the fact that thus the in- habitants may be said to live almost always in the open air — or at least to have always a free circulation of air around them ; and I am satisfied there is much in this. Indeed, were it not for this, living in Havanna would scarcely be endurable. It would be rendered in- supportable by the combined influence of the heat and of the odours. The streets are narrow, particularly those within the walls. Nor is the town in any degree entitled to a character for cleanliness ; so that the olfactory nerves are often, as you go along the streets, oflcnded with odours of the most villainous character, of which the smell of garlic seems always to form a part. When to this you add the occasional smells of tobacco, dried fish, rancid butter, damp bales, and the exhalations from the moist, and not particularly clean, skins of the negro slaves, and remember that the whole is to be encountered with the thermometer standing, in the shade, at or about 90 or 100° of Fahrenheit, it will be admitted that a free cir- culation of air is most desirable. And admirably are the Havanna houses adapted for receiving that free circulation. The ceilings are in general extremely lofty. The windows are also wide, and so high that they extend from the ceiling to the floor; and, being unglazed, and only closed by blinds which do not exclude the air, there is at all times a free circulation, without which the climate would be ab- solutely insupportable. Those blinds are but seldom drawn, even in the evening ; and it has a singular cftect to a European or Ameri- can eye, to observe that, as you walk along the narrow troUoirs of the narrow streets, you occasionally brush clothes with the hand- somely dressed signoras and signers, as they lounge at their evening reunions, ' ; ing, parties; or family leaning against prepared; but itenances these j ubt they want )rthern climes; e countenances, re is about the lewhat at vari- ever, take any the Paseo or to , sitting in their tk all this indo- I — the ladies of ust which rival hich the travel- be seen in the f this acknow- ie to the open lat thus the in- jpen air — or at hem; and I am for this, living be rendered in- d of the odours, walls. Nor is cleanliness; so »ng the streets, 3r, of which the to this you add ter, damp bales, ticularly clean, whole is to be le shade, at or that a free cir- 'e the Havanna he ceilings are de, and so high )eing unglazed, air, there is at would be ab- m drawn, even pcan or Ameri- ow trottoirs of ith the hand- t their evening bars which run i COSTUME, ETC., IN HAVANNA. 123 V from the top to the bottom of their lofty windows, dividing them from the street. The same circumstance — the openness of the win- dows, and the unfrequency of drawn blinds — enables, nay almost compels the passenger, as he walks along the street, to see the do- mestic operations and attitudes of the persons (generally the smaller class of shop and storekeepers) who occupy the houses fronting the narrower streets. But it is only fair to add that the privilege is one which is seldom abused, and one an abuse of which would meet with an immediate and indignant check, by the offender being at once given into charge for punishment. During the time I was in Cuba, I only saw one tipsy man, and he was either an Englishman or an American ; and on no occasion did I hear or see any quarrel on the street, arising from the ladies or other persons at the windows being addressed by the passers-by who rubbed clothes with them, or from any other cause. It is also a simple act of justice to pay a tribute to the manner — the excellent, tasteful, and cleanly manner — in which both the ladies and the gentlemen of Havanna dress themselves. In the manner in which they dress their children, they not unfrequeetly carry this ' : a ludicrous length. At the Tacon theatre, and when driving on lae Paseo, I have ofttimes seen a couple, compoged evidently of father and son, the latter an urchin of four, five, or six years of age, and both dressed precisely alike, even to the jewelled cane, the gold watch, the diamond ring. This surely is " ridiculous excess." But, as a general rule, the Cubans dress tastefully and well, both men and women. It seemed to me that the male part of the community had a great preference for black coats, with white waistcoats and continua- tions ; and, if the coat be light in texture, this is a dress most admirably adapted for the climate. These Cuban gentlemen do also, as it ap- peared to me, endeavour to eschew hair on the sides of the cheek, and to promote its production on every other part of the face — a habit, I certainly think, filthy and unbecoming : but de gustibus nil est disputandum. The English traveller in these regions will find no persons who excel his own countrymen in extraordinary attempts at the growth of hair on the human face divine. The ladies, save when occasions of a religious ceremony or family observance compel the use of black, do unquestionably prefer white dresses — that most effective of all dress for the young and fair, a white muslin dress. In these flowing muslins, and without bonnets or other head-dress, to hide the magnificent hair which nature has given them, they come put to the afternoon drive in the Paseo, or to the evening lounge on the Plaza de Armas ; and, gracefully reclin- ing, in easy indolence, in their volantes, which form a cordon around the whole square, they converse or flirt with their numerous beaus during the intervals between the music — the ample folds of their 124 HAVANNA— THE DOMINICA. dresses flowing over on eact side of the steps of the carriage, but clear of contamination from the mud on the wheels, from the circum- stance of the latter being placed so far back, in the manner before explained, when describing the vehicle. In short, I recollect of no instance in which I have seen anything of the kind more beautiful than a well-appointed Cuba volante, with two or three fair Creole ladies of Cuba sitting on it, their heads uncovered, and their white dresses flowing in graceful folds around them. Inside the volantes at the Plaza de Armas, there are rows of forms and chairs placed for those who prefer to sit ; and within the whole is a place for prome- nading, the bands (for there are generally two, if not three,) being stationed around the statue in the centre. The square is lit with gas when occasion requires; and a more agreeable place for an evening promenade it were difficult to imagine. The Paseo Isabel, which lies between the walls of Havanna and the streets of the new town, is another place of public resort, being the chief place to which the citizens repair with their volantes, to drive up and down on festival occasions — enjoying, at the same time, the luxury of seeing and of being seen, and the exquisite music dis- coursed by the military bands provided by the Government for the amusement of the people. I witnessed the scene on the occasion be- fore mentioned — namely, on the anniversary of the birthday of the Queen-mothe^ Christina— as well as at' other times i and a very gay, cheerful scene it is. If I were to venture a conjecture as to the number of volantes I saw, at one time, driving up and down the Paseo, I fear I would scarcely be credited. It seemed as if all Ha- vanna had turned out in honour of the occasion. The hour of drive in the Paseo is generally early in the afternoon, about five o'clock ; that of the promenade in the Plaza de Armas, considerably later — about eight o'clock. Indeed, it seemed to me that the fair Cubans just loitered at the one till it was time to go to the other ; and many a voluptuous form, whom I had seen sitting in her volante as it drove along the Paseo, did I afterwards recognise reclining, with easy elegance, in the same vehicle at the Plaza. On leaving the Plaza de Armas, the places of resort are the Thea- tre Tacon, (in wbi.ch there is, generally, an operatic company of con- siderable merit,) when it is open ; or the splendid cafes, of which there are, at least, two very large ones in the immediate vicinity of the Plaza. I can only speak from personal experience of one of these cafes — that called the Dominica — than which there is not a better appointed establishment of the kind in any part of the world. Indeed, all the English and Americans, as well as Cubans, I met with in Havanna, were loud in their praises of the Dominica. It was made by us our constant place of meeting and of call, whether we intended to patronise its tempting delicacies or not; and it is h t( HAVANNA— TACON THEATRE. 125 le carriage, but rom the circum- } manner before ; recollect of no more beautiful hree fair Creole and their white ide the volantes ihairs placed for place for prome- at three,) being •e is lit with gas for an evening I \] »f Havanna and lie resort, being beir volantes, to ,t the same time, uisite music dis- ernment for the the occasion be- „ birthday of the ] and a very gay, lecture as to the ip and down the d as if all Ha- a the afternoon, !*laza de Armas, ; seemed to me as time to go to 1 seen sitting in wards recognise he Plaza. t are the Thea- lompany of con- cafes, of which iate vicinity of ence of one of there is not a t of the world. Cubans, I met Dominica. It f call, whether not; and it is simply an act of justice to record the fact, that nothing could exceed • '\e attention and civility we received, whatever was the nature or puri:ose of the call. It is a very large establishment, capable of con- taining some hundreds of visitors at the same time. In the centre of it there is a large, open, paved court, with a fountain in the mid- dle, in which court the visitors are also accommodated, being pro- tected by a sail overhead, which can be drawn back or across, so as to form a roof, as occasion may require or render expedient. To describe the variety of articles falling under the generic names " preserves" or " confectionaries," to be seen and tasted at the Domi- nica, were a tedious task to any one — an impossible one to such as have had their culinary education somewhat r*iglected, as has been my lot — but the flavour of some of them linger on my palate still. The spirited proprietor carries on a very large foreign as well as home trade ; and I was not at all surprised when I was informed of the fact, and saw the statement verified, by witnessing the huge boxes of pine-apple jelly, guava jelly, preserved fruits of every description, and liquors of every possible name and colour, which came from " La Dominica" to the steamship Severn — Captain Vincent commander— to be conveyed to different parts of the world, to minister to the gratification of the rising generation and others. In short, the pro- prietor of the Dominica has a large home and foreign business ; and he deserves to have it, were it only for his civility to strangers, and for the gallantry with which his numerous helps attend to the com- mands of the fair signorittas as they stop for refreshment of some kind, without alighting from the volante, after they leave the Plaza de Armas. The Tacon theatre mentioned above is a very splendid building, very spacious — being indeed one of the largest in the world. When I first went to Havana, it was occupied as a place for the exhibi- tion of feats of legerdemain and " digital dexterity," by a gentle- man rejoicing in the somewhat mixed name of Signer McAllister, and his lady, who were delighting the Cubans with their magical performances. The surname smacked strongly of Scotland j and the answer I received, on inquiring of a Scotch gentleman, resi- dent in the island, was, that he knew Mr. McAllister, and that he WPS a native of the land of mountain and of flood, having been born in the manufacturing village of Kirkintilloch, in the west of Scotland, Having no great taste for such exhibitions, and having already seen several in my time — the court-performing " Wizard of the North" inclusive — it was not my countryman, or his " 7ieuva y variada funclon,'* that attracted me to the Cuban theatre; although it is but fair to add, that never had I before seen such perform- ances more skilfully executed than they were por los esposes M^ Al- ii* 126 HAVANNA— CAMPO SANTO. lister J who contrived to keep a large, gay, and varied audience in a state of interested delight for a period, I should suppose — for I left ere it was finished — of about three hours. My object, however, was to see the house, about the beauty of which I had previously heard much — and that much was certainly justified by the fact. It is indeed a superb, tasteful house, painted white, with gilded mouldings. There is a pit capable of contain- ing fully a thousand people, each person being accommodated with a seat or stall separate from the rest, and these seats or stalls being numbered. Of the boxes there are three tiers or rows, and of the galleries there are two. The open formation of the boxes, with their movable jalousies behind, and, generally, the formation of the house, is not only beautiful and effective, but admirably adapted to promote coolness — which is, of course, the main object in a climate where the thermometer is rarely below ninety in the shade. I visited the Tacon Theatre also in the forenoon, to correct any too favorable ideas I might have formed from having seen it when lit up by the splendid gas-lights which illume and adorn it, and graced by the numerous fairy forms, and brilliant or languishing eyes of the ladies who occupied the boxes. But day-light confirmed my opinion of its fine proportions j and, from having tried my own voice in it, and heard others speak in it, I would say, that it is as well adapted for speaking in as it is for seeing and for hearing. This theatre is chiefly used for operatic purposes ; and ere I left the island, Madame Anna Bishop, with Bochsa and Valtalli, had arrived, and were gratifying the Cubans with their musical powers. The Cuba Beneficencia I did not inspect, and the only thing con- nected with the exterior of it was a scene which is to be seen in Cuba in front of almost every place which is at all of a public character — and that is, soldiers on guard. Soldiers, soldiers, in every direction. On the Paseo, at the promenade, guarding the theatre, at the cemetery, and even in front of the hospitals. The number of troops in Cuba must be very great for the size of the island. There were not, at the time in question, less than twelve thousand in the town of Havanna alone. A little apart from the city, and after passing through that gate in the town wall which is nearest the sea, you come to the public cemetery of Havanna, called the Campo Santo — a place of no beauty, but interesting as the spot which receives at last, and in rapid succession, the bodies of rich and poor in this town of bus- tling trade, after the lease of life held by each comes to an end. This graveyard is surrounded by a very thick wall, with an interior brick-work, in which are niches or openings in tiers, one above another, in numerous succession. These niches or recesses are decp; and look like large pigeon-holes ; and they form the tombs y I of the so t dea can i HAV ANNA— VALLA DE GALLOS. 127 1 audience in uppose — for I the beauty of was certainly louse, painted )le of contain- imodated with or stalls being ws, and of the le boxes, with formation of irably adapted in object in a J in the shade. to correct any I seen it when adorn it, and )r languishing ight confirmed 5 tried my own fy that it is as i for hearing, ind ere I left I Valtalli, had usical powers, nly thing con- to be seen in II of a public 'S, soldiers, in guarding the )spitals. The le size of the than twelve ugh that gate to the public place of no last, and in town of bus- 3S to an end. th an interior rs, one above recesses are m the tombs .1 i of the richer inhabitants of Havanna, the coffin being thrust into the niche, and the end built up or covered by a tablet, to remain BO till it is opened for the next member of the family for whom death calls. In the yard within the walls, the poor are thrust, generally without coffins, into shallow graves — the process of decomposition being hastened by the use of quick-lime. If the visit is paid in the cool of the evening, the period of the day at which funerals usually take place, the visitor will have an oppor- tunity of judging for himself of the manner in which funerals are conducted in Cuba, as scarcely an evening passes without numerous interments taking place. There is no funeral service at the grave, and ofttimes the corpse is brought for burial dressed in the clothes of every-day life. It was, on the whole, a sickening sight ; and the vicinity of a lunatic establishment, at the windows of which some of the inmates were seen, helped to add to its disheartening effect. It were to omit one of the pleasantest of Cuban reminiscences, not to mention the Baiios Publicos, or public bathing-houses, to be found in and about Havanna. There are numerous establishments in the town, where hot and cold fresh-water baths may be had at a cost of from a quarter of a dollar to half a dollar ; and it is only in a climate like Cuba that the luxury of such establishments is fully felt. But the baths worthy of special mention are the sea- baths along the coast, several of which you pass on the way to the Campo Santo. The coast of Cuba is formed or composed of a kind of honey-comb rock, and this is cut or hollowed out into baths, in lengths of about twenty feet square, or thereby, and of a depth varying from three to six, or even eight feet — the outer wall, be- tween the bath and the sea, being perforated with holes, which admit the free flow of the water in and out, while they do not per- mit of the ingress of anything that can injure or annoy. In none of the other islands of the West Indian Archipelago are there sea- baths at all to compare with those of Havanna ; and they only who have felt the luxury of a bath in sea water in the tropics, and know the danger of swimming in the open sen among these islands, can appreciate fully the advantage the Cubans enjoy in having such places for performing their ablutions. There are, of course, separate baths for the females ; and there are larger baths into Tvhich several persons may go, while the visitor, who prefers it, can have one entirely to himself or herself. These baths are covered in by a wooden erection, and the charge for the bath and the use of towels is generally a peseta for the bath, and a real for the towels — about thirty cents, or Is. 3c?. The Valla de Gallos, or public cockpits of Havanna, cannot be excluded from its characteristics and sights. They arc situated in a 128 HOUSES ETC., IN HAVANNA. large enclosure outside the walls, and are composed of two amphi- theatres, having benches round the sides, and a roof overhead with a circular area in the middle. These places are generally crowded, and the shouting of " Mata, mata," (kill, kill,) and other sounds, baffles description ; while the quantity of money that changes hands, as each combat is brought to a conclusion by the one or other of the com- batants in this inhuman and brutalising sport being killed or dis- abled, shows how deeply the practice and spirit of gambling gene- rally have worked themselves into the national character. A cock- pit, and a game at Monte, (which is a chance game at cards,) can, I believe, easily be seen in any part of Cuba, as well as in most parts either of Spain or of any of her colonies. The stranger in Ilavanna is at once struck with the want of trees, particularly in the promenades. This in a tropical climate, is un- questionably a great want. The trees in the Paseo are young, scarce- ly more than shrubs ; and throughout the whole town and suburbs there is the same want of shade from trees — a fact which is mainly to be attributed to the effects of a hurricane which visited the island in 1844, and produced much suffering and distress. Within the walls, the streets of Havanna are both narrow and crooked — so narrow, that in some streets two Volantes can scarce pass each other. Outside the walls they are wider ; and both " intra" and "extra muros" the buildings are large, having in general a courtyard in the centre, which is ofttimes paved with marble, around which courtyard are the entrances to the rooms, and the whole has altogether a very Moorish aspect. In the bote's or bording-houses, such as Madame d'Almy's or Miss Chambers's — both of which are excellent, well-conducted establishments, where everything may be had at public tables at a charge of about two dollars per day — the public rooms are good, and (which is the thing chiefly wanted in such a climate) airy and spacious, as well as tolerably well furnished. But the bedrorms are generally the worst rooms in the house ; and altogether there is a great want of those domestic conveniences com- prehended under the truly English term " comfort." In some of the private houses I had the pleasure of visiting, the rooms — the public ones especially — are very handsome ; and I enjoyed the hos- pitalities of one friend, who, while his public rooms were good, had judiciously turned the two best rooms of his mansion into his own bedroom, and a nursery for his children ; but he was an Englishman, at least a Scotchman. Rents in Havanna are very high, and alto- gether it is a very dear place to live in. The coins in general use are Spanish and Mexican dollars, half and quarter dollars, pesetas, or twenty-cent pieces, reals de plata, about the eighth of a dollar, and doubloons, of which there are two kinds — the one doubloon be- ing Mexican, Columbian, or of some other South American state, TREATMENT OF SLAVES. 129 d of two amphi- overhead with a lly crowded, and er sounds, baffles es bands, as each ther of the com< Qg killed or dis- gambling gene- racter. A cock- at cards,) can, I as in most parts he want of trees, 1 climate, is un- ,re young, scarce- Dwn and suburbs which is mainly irisited the island both narrow and antes can scarce ud both " intra" ing in general a p marble, around id the whole has bording-houses, >th of which are rything may be rs per day — the hiefly wanted in y well furnished. the house ; and Dnveniences com- '' In some of the rooms — the enjoyed the hos- were good, had on into his own an Englishman, high, and alto- in general use dollars, pesetas, hth of a dollar, le doubloon be- Amcrican state, U and being of the value of £S. 6s. 8d., and a legal tender for sixteen dollars; and the other, the old Spanish doubloon, or onza d'oro, value about £S. 10s. lOd., and a legal tender for seventeen silver dollars. Of the silver dollars, the Spanish pillar dollar is preferred. When on the subject of coins, I would strongly recommend the traveller in these parts, before starting on his voyage, or as soon thereafter as possible, to possess himself of a book or pamphlet con- taining drawings of most coins in use, with a statement of their relative worth and value. Such pamphlets are published in Ameri- ca, by Taylor and others. I am not aware whether there are any works of a similar nature published in England ; but, at all events, the American publication can easily be procured in this country, from any bookseller who deals in transatlantic publications. These pamphlets are issued in the States once a-month, and are there of especial use, as they contain descriptions of the numerous notes (paper money) of inferior value, or of no value at all, which are there in constant circulation, and with which the designing and dis- honest often cheat the unwary traveller. They also give drawings and descriptions of most coins, with the relative value of each in cents. Before leaving Cuba, I did my utmost to get as accurate informa- tion as possible, as to the general condition of the slave population ; but the details differed so much, that it was next to impossible to lay down any statement of general application. The system is so very a despotism, and masters differ so widely, that what is true of one is untrue of another, and the shades of difference in the treat- ment of their slaves are just as numerous as the men. A few par- ticulars, however, I ascertained as facts beyond dispute. In the first place, the domestic slaves, those employed in the per- formance of menial offices in the families of their owners, are in general very well treated. Nor are they indiscriminately selected from the general body. The office is as it were hereditary ; the chil- dren, if there are any, being brought up to the performance of domestic work as the parents die. It is plain that ties will thus be formed between the master and mistress, and their families, and their domestic servants, which will go far to soften the hardships of slavery, and to secure the comparative good treatment of the slaves. So it is in Cuba. The best-informed parties in Havanna assured me, and my own observation led me to the same conclusion, that, on the whole, the household slaves were a favoured race compared with their fellows in the field, and that instances in which domestics were ill treated were the exceptions, and not the rule. Among the slaves, and particularly among the domestic slaves, it occasionally happens that a slave works out his or her freedom, un Jer the operation of a law known as giving rise to what is called the 130 TREATMENT OF SLAVES. Cuartado system. By this system a slave can purchase his freedom if 80 incliDcd. If he has been purchased by bis master, the price so paid is held also as the price which he must pay for his liberation ; while, if he has been born in slavery to his master, he is entitled by law to have a price put upon himself by valuation, at which price he has the right to redeem himself from bondage. After this valuation, on paying one-sixth of the price, the slave becomes master of his own time, becomes free, as it were, for one day in the week j another sixth, two days, and so on j so that the capacity for acquiring free- dom, as well as the desire so to do — like Virgil's impersonation of fame — vires acquint eundo. If I remember aright, some such plan was once proposed by the British statesman Canning, for the gradual emancipation of the slaves in the British colonial possessions. Wheji once adventured on, and to some length successfully prosecuted, the path to freedom by the Cuartado system is not a difficult one. But to commence, — hie labor hoc opus est : few even of the strongest and best-behaved can find the means of beginning to work out their liberty, and hence it is that there are but few Cuartados to be found in Cuba. But there are a few, and it is generally conceded — indeed, it may be readily supposed — that persons who have so adventured on a course of welldoing for the purchase of the dearest earthly right, will make the best and most faithful domestic servants, and are ac- cordingly generally selected for that purpose. The field-labourers are however, as a body, in a very diflFerent situa- tion. As a general rule, their labour is very severe, and their treatment very harsh — during the process of sugar-making, especially so. When once the grinding or pressing the cane — the first step in sugar-making — is begun, it proceeds day and night, with the excep- tion of Sundays and other holidays, (and ofttimes without even these exceptions,) till the whole is completed. The slaves work in gangs, and for six hours or — at a time — being kept closely at their work by the fear of the lash, and by its frequent application. In some estates there are no women — in others there are very few ; and the men are, during the hours devoted to sleep, penned up in barracoons like so many cattle. No doubt the treatment varies on diflferent estates. On some it is much more humane than on others, but as a general rule it is the very reverse of humane ; and I could not, al- though I diligently inquired, hear of any estate on which the number of labourers was kept up by births on the estate itself. Indeed, the idea of making the slave population supply itself is the last thing that seems to enter a Cuban's mind ; and it will be so long as, by violating the contract made with, and paid for by England in 1817, and by encouraging the disgusting slave trade, he can buy much cheaper than he can breed. To breed slaves is bad enough, but it is an evil unquestionably second to the stealing and selling of them ; TREATMENT OF SLAVES. 131 ise hia freedom aster, the price his liberation ; e is entitled by vrbich price he this valuation, master of his \ week ; another I f acquiring free- | ipersonation of some such plan for the gradual essions. Wheji prosecuted, the cult one. But ■ the strongest work out their lo3 to be found ceded — indeed, adventured on t earthly right, kts, and are ac- difFerent situa- ere, and their cing, especially he first step in v'lth the excep- lout even these ;vork in gangs, f at their work ion. In some i few; and the in barracoons i on different thers, but as a could not, al- ch the number . Indeed, the he last thing io lor.g as, by land in 1817, ;an buy much nough, but it ling of them ; and thus It is, it should bo remembered, that to end slavery we must begin at the beginning : we must first put an end to the slave traflSc. That is unquestionably the natural way. Indeed, as to the condition and treatment of agricultural slaves ia the island of Cuba, these two well-ascertained facts speak volumes, and render further inquiry almost unnecessary. In the first place, the Negro population is far, very far from supporting itself The number of victims annually robbed from Africa and taken as slaves to Cuba, Porto Rico, and Brazil, are estimated at seventy-eight thou- sand. Of these the Spanish colonies get one-half But whatever number may be landed at Porto Kico in the first instance, few are allowed to remain there, for the reason already pointed out when writing of the labouring population of that productive island. It is therefore within the truth to estimate the numbers annually taken to Cuba at thirty thousand ; and that this amount of importation is required to make good the ravages by death, is proved by the fact, that whenever, through the vigilance of British cruisers or otherwise, there has her a a failure in the number imported, the price has im- mediately and rapidly risen. It is a fact well known and universally admitted in Havanna, that when, in the spring or summer of 1847, intelligence reached Cuba that the British Government had actually passed the Sugar Duties Bill of 1846, (admitting slave-grown sugar into our markets,) the price of slaves immediately rose greatly ; and such was the demand occasioned by the increase of sugar cultivation in the island, that slaves formerly considered so old, infirm, and superannuated, as to be exempted from working were again put to work ; and some were drafted from the lighter work of the caflFetal, or coffee plantations, on to the heavier labour of the sugar estates : and these consequences arose solely from the fact that the slavers were unable to supply the demand with sufficient rapidity, being prevented by the vigilance of the British and French cruising squadrons. In the second place, it is now but too well known that the average life of a slave, after he reaches Cuba, does not exceed seven or eight years. This acknowledged fact requires no com- ment. It contains in itself at once the evidence and the explana- tion of the inhuman treatment which these unfortunates receive at the hands of their oppressors. There are surely none, who can appreciate the horrors of such a a state of things, who would not gladly aid in and towards their suppression. That the issue is rapidly approaching seems very evident ; but how it is to be brought about is not so plain. If to any I may seem to contemplate too liberally the possibility of the American Republic acquiring Cuba by purchase or otherwise, it is possible that my feelings thereto are somewhat influenced by the 132 BRITISH WEST INDIAN COLONIES. !i #"' conviction that such acquisition of the isle of Cuba would accele- rate, instead of (as some think) retarding the glorious day of the abolition, not only of the slave trade, but of slavery, even in the American Union itself. Apart however from tb's, and even should Great Britain and France be left alone, as they may be said to have hitherto been, in their holy crusade against the system of slavery ; and apart even from the vexed question of whether the African squadron is either a judicious or an efiicient weapon for slave trade suppression, England and France have other, more powerful, and more universally applicable means at their com- mand, for the accomplishment of their beneficent designs towa.ds the swarthy sons of Africa. It will form part of the object of the next chapter to explain what these means are, and how they should be employed. fc CHAPTER VIII. "Great was the boon, my country, when you gave To man his birthright, freedom to the slave." The concluding remarks of the last chapter have brought me to the date at which I left the West Indian Archipelago — never, in all probability, to return thereto. Thereafter crossing the Gulf of Mexico from Havanna to Mobile, I found myself for the first time, and with highly raised hopes, on the great continent of America. But, before finally leaving the subject of the British colonial possessions in the West Indies, I am irresistibly impelled, nay, I feel it almost a duty, to record, in as few words as I can, the views and impressions, formed upon the scene, as to the claims, position and future prospects of these noble colonies of England. No doubt the subject is nearly threadbare. So much has been said and written upon it already, that it were perhaps scarcely to be hoped that any new fact should be here stated, any new view eli- cited, or the general subject discussed with greater clearness and force of argument than have been already brought to bear upon it by otL .r and by abler writers. Still I am satisfied that much igno- rance and misconception yet prevails, even regarding the facts on which the question at issue between England and her West In- dian colonies depends ; and perchance these remarks upon it may fall into hands which have not yet had access to other more ex- tended and elaborate treatises or statements, and may induce some, who would not otherwise have done so, to investigate the matter for themselves. At all events, I have resolved to put in writing I BRITISH WEST INDIES. 133 rould accele- 9 day of the even in the even should y be said to le system of whether the ■j weapon for other, more t their com- igns towaids object of the r they should rought me to ro — never, in ^ the Gulf of le first time, America. tish colonial )elled, nay, I an, the views ims, position ngland. No as been said larcely to be lew view eli- earness and )ear upon it tmuch igno- the facts on ler West In- upon it may er more ex- nduce some, the matter t in writing J my views of the present unfortunate, depressed state and condition of West Indian affairs, and of the remedies that might be applied to them ; and if the subject seems too old, or too irksome, for the perusal of any who have gone with me thus far, I can only re- spectfully suggest that they turn over a few leaves, and join me at the commencement of the next volume. The pages on which are inscribed the part that England has acted in the suppression of slavery, and in the emancipation of the slave, are unquestionably among the brightest pages of her na- tional history. They shed a halo round tht name of England which is imperishable, and beyond the reach oi national mutation. That " Slaves cannot breathe in England ; if their lungs Keceive our air, that momcut they are free," had become credited, almost as an axiom, even before the famous decision of Lord Mansfield, pronounced in the case of the slave Somerset, in June, 1772. Indeed — and this is a fact which is not generally known — the same point as that tried and decided in Somerset's case, had been brought solemnly before, and fully dis- cussed in, the Supreme Court of Scotland, no less than fifteen years previously ; and it is nothing less than certain, that a judg- ment similar in efiect to that pronounced by Lord Mansfield would then have been given in Scotland, had the final decision of the case not been prevented by the unfortunate death of the negro, pending the discussion. Under date 4th July 1757, the following case is reported in the records of the Court of Session. " Hearing in presence — Robert Sheddan against a Negro. A Negro who had been bought in Virginia, and brought to Britain to be taught a trade, and who had been baptized in Britain, having claimed his liberty against his master, Robert Sheddan, who had put him on board a ship to carry him back to Virginia ; the Lords ap- pointed counsel for the Negro, and ordered memorials, and after- wards a hearing in presence, upon the respective claims of liberty and servitude, by the mastei and the negro. But, during the hear- ing in presence, the negro died — so the point was not decided.'* But, although the question had thus been previously mooted in Scotland, the glory yet remains to the great Mansfield, of having pronounced the decision which first promulgated the noble truth that England and slavery are incompatible terms — a decision which may be said to have roused into active exertion, in 1772, that spirit which animated a succession of men, such as Clarkson, Wilberforcc, Brougham, Jeffrey, and Mackintosh, and of which the Emancipa- tion Act of 1834: was only one of the later results. The circum- stances of Somerset's case have often been recorded; but they deserve to be borne in mind, and they form a fitting introduction to 12 11 134 BRITISH WEST INDIES. the consideration of what Great Britain has yet to do, if she would do justice to all parties in this great cause. Somerset the slave had, after his arrival ir» England, become incapacitated for working. It was said that this was through the cruel treatment of his master ; hut it seems equally probable that it was through disease. His condition was made known i.. Mr. Wil- liam Sharpe, then a surgeon in London, by whose philanthropic and skilful services the poor slave was healed. His master finding that he was so, again claimed his services as a slave ; but, the circum- stance coming to the ears of Granville Sharpe (the brother of the surgeon who had healed the man,) who had previously buckled on his mental armour in this great struggle for the rights of man, he brought the case before Lord Mansfie'd, who, on 22d June 1772, pronounced the memorable judgment, which is in these terms : "Immemorial usage preserves the memory of positive law, long after the traces of the occasion, reason, authority, or time of its introduction are lost ; and, in a case so odious as the condition of slaves, must be taken strictly. Tracing the subject of natural prin- ciples, the claim of slavery never can be supported. The power claimed by this return never was in use here. We cannot say the cause set forth by this return is allowed or approved of by the laws of this kingdom ; and therefore the man must be discharged.'^ The spirit of opposition to slavery as a system, being thus awak- ened and encouraged — public attention being directed to the matter — the cause proceeded and prevailed, gathering strength as it ad- vanced, until, after repeated defeats, Mr. Wilberforce, on the 25th of March 1807, carried his bill which pronounced the slave trade abolished forever, and the stain it had inflicted wiped oflF from the national escutcheon of England. Nor should the fact be overlooked, when noticing the subject, that it was in the very same year that America abolished the slave trafl&c, in po far as she was concerned, declaring it to be illegal for her subjects to carry it on — Denmark having preceded both England and America ir this sacred cause. But, the slave trade abolished, another gv'A only second to it still remained. Slavery still existed in the British colonial possessions. The supply from without was cut ofl^, and thereby, no doubt, a great boon was conferred on those slaves already within — inasmuch as even the most inhuman master had now an inducement to treat his slaves with a kindness he had never exhibited to them before — the same inducement that the possessor of a horse has to treat him well, if he does not know how to replace him should he be lost. But the nation was not satisfied. The excitement and agitation proceeded, led on by Wilberforce and other well-known names, and, it cannot be denied, aided not a little by the well-authenticated cases of cruelty 'i BRITISH WEST INDIES. 135 if she would iand, become through the Dbable that it I I. Mr. Wil- mthropic and r finding that ;, the circum- ►rother of the y buckled on ts of man, he 1 June 1772, 3 terms : tive law, long )r time of its e condition of ' natural prin- . The power annot say the if by the laws larged." ig thus awak- to the matter gth as it ad- on the 25th e slave trade off from the overlooked, ,me year that ,s concerned, m — Denmark Ired cause, lond to it still A possessions, oubt, a great •inasmuch as it to treat his before — the |cat him well, ist. But the |n proceeded, ,nd, it cannot Ises of cruelty perpetrated on slaves by individual, masters in the West Indies,* until, in the year 1833, the Emancipation Act — which put an end, not merely to the trafl&c in slaves, but to slavery itself, throughout the dominions of Great Britain — passed the British Parliament. It is a coincidence, in connexion with the passing of this important sta- tute, which is worthy of being recorded whenever mention of the subject is made, that, on the very night in which the Hviuse of Com- mons agreed to, and passed, the emancipating clause of the bill, the death of Wilberforce took place. It seemed almost as if the spirit of this great and good man had lingered in its tenement of clay, until it should be privileged to see the triumph of that cause to which his life had been devoted, and had then been itself emancipated from the sufferings of the flesh. Before and at the time the Emancipation Bill was passed, the country was literally inundated with treatises and pamphlets, on both sides of the question ; and there are some who even now affirm, that the bill was carried more by clamour, than in consequence of a gene- ral perception of the wisdom, justice, and prudence of the measure. Be this, however, as it may, there are few or none who now refuse to admit that the time had come when the abolition of slavery could not much longer be refused ; and, throughout the length and breadth of the West Indies, never did I hear even the most complaining, in- dignant, or ruined planter declare either the possibility or the wisdom of a return to the enslaved state. But let us consider, in a few sentences, the condition in which the passing of the Emancipation Act of 1833 placed the British colonist in the West Indies. If, to the date of that act, slavery had been a legalized thing in the British West Indies, the sin was not simply a colonial, it was a national one. England not merely permitted, but compelled the possessors of colonial estates to work their estates by means of slave labour. They had, indeed, no other labour to work them with — but that is not all. In most Df the colonies, there was a law which required the maintenance of a cer- tain proportion between the extent of the estate and the number of the slaves The West Indian proprietor must either keep slaves or give up his property. Let this not be forgotten. But Eng- land, in 1833, said, This shall cease ; m future, you (the colonist) must work your estates by free labourers : and in so doing, she said that which was as consistent with wisdom, as it certainly was with justice and mercy. But the colonist replied, I cannot work my estate as cheaply by means of free men as by means of slaves. * It were foreign to the object of this sketch to dwell on details; but th3 reader disposed .o doubt this, or desirous of farther information, may consult the J£din- burnh Eeview, and ni particular the details connected with the trial and conviction of Hodge (one of the counc'l of tlio Virgin Islands) for the murder of his slave iii 1811; aud the trial of Iluggins, for excessive cruelty to his slaves, &c. I;:i 136 BRITISH WEST INDIES. Now, what was tuc answer to this ? The fact was denied; but, at the same time, it so far prevailed that compensation was given. Twenty millions sterling were agreed to be given; and it is cer- tainly this twenty millions that blinds most persons in Great Britain so far as to prevent them from taking even a fair view of the present claims and position of the West Indian planter. Twenty millions were voted, and it was a handsome sum. There is no wish to deny that it was so ; and I certainly am not one of those who would disparage this munificent act on England's part — an act which places her conduct in bright relief against the con- duct of other countries, which have either refused their colonists compensation altogether, or have given a mere pittance in seeming compliance with the claim. But truth should be heard. What was this compensation for ? Why was it fixed at twenty millions ? It was given in consideration of the additional expense to be en- tailed on the planter from . being compelled to hire labourers to work his fields and manufactories, instead of cultivating the one and carrying on the other by means of slaves — in consideration, in short, of the mother country having tied him up to one mode of culture, while he previously had an option of two. And it wab fixed at twenty millions sterling, not because it was for a moment supposed that that sum would fairly represent the value of the slaves to be liberated, much less of the estates and works on and in which they were employed — but because it was, at the time, thought, that the injury would only bo a temporary one, and that, as the planters would all he on the same footing^ the result, in a few years, would be to make the profit from working sugar, coffee, and cotton estates, by free labour, as great as it had been during the time when Britain countenanced slavery. The soundness of this view may be maintained from the terms of the Emancipation Act itself. In the rubric these words occur, " For compensating the persons hitherto entitled to the services of such slaves." In the preamble, it is said that a reasonable compensation should be given " to the persons hitherto entitled to the services of the slaves, for the loss which they may incur by being deprived of such services." And by section twenty-fourth, the twenty millions are granted " towards compensating the persons hitherto entitled to the services of the slaves to be manumitted." Indeed, the statistics of the matter prove that this was the principle of the calculation. The value of the whole slaves in the British West Indian colonies was, by the Government commissioners, estimated and taken to be forty-three millions sterling ; while the value of the estates, works, and machinery in and on which they were employed, was nearly twice that sum — making a formidable total of nearly one hundred and twenty-nine millions sterling. It is therefore out of the ques- I i tion be pos( int nati him BRITISH WEST INDIES. 137 nied; but, at n was given. and it is cer- )ns in Great a fair view of dian planter. sum. There m not one of ngland's part ainst the con- iheii' colonists ee in seeming leard. What nty millions ? 3nse to be en- I labourers to iting the one consideration, 3 one mode of And it wab for a moment value of the works on and , at the time, nc, and that, ssult, in a few ir, coffee, and in during the dness of this icipation Act )ensating the es." In the ould be given le slaves, for ch services." are granted the services istics of the ation. The olonies was, taken to be tates, works, was nearly one hundred of the ques- tion to talk of the twenty millions as being voted or intended to be given as representing anything more than the amount of sup- posed temporary loss the planter might sustain through the change in the condition of the labourer, and the consequent change in tho nature of the relationship subsisting between that labourer and himself. Still the sum was a handsome one ; and, if even the dis- appointed West Indian will fairly face the subject, he must admit that, at the time, and with the information which existed at the time, (whereby a glimpse into the probable consequences might have been obtained,) it was a munificent act of national justice, or at least intended to be so. Indeed, had means been adopted for gradually procuring a sufficiency of free labourers — and had the measure of emancipation been left to itself and to worh out only its own effects, unaided and uninjured by subsequent legislation of a dif- ferent and of a backward tendency — the amounC given would have been found to have been a reasonable, if not a fidl, compensation. In short, the transaction was this — and no reasonable man, either on the one side or the other, will deny that it was so : Britain said to her colonists. — " We have both been to blame — I in permitting, and even in legalizing slavery in my possessions ; you, in taking advantage of that permission, to engage and continue in a traffic and trade which violates one of the first rights and principles of humanity. But a change of system is an experiment, although a ju ,1 nd a necessary one, and it will probably, if not certainly, be attended at first with loss. Now you, the colonist, ought to bear most of that loss, inasmuch as you have been actually engaged in the trade, and you or your predecessors on the estates have reaped such profit as has been derived from this objectionable and sinful mode of working your estates. Looking therefore to the whole matter — tota re perspecta — I will compound my share of the de- linquency by giving you the handsome sum of twenty millions sterling, besides aiding you to get free labourers for your estates, and any further loss arising from the natural effects of the measure must be borne by yourselves." Here then lies the whole question, and in my humble opinion here lies the strength and justice of the claims of the British colonist. For, be it observed, the Emanci- pation Act was not an isolated measure ; it formed part of a great whole. In 1807 Great Britain had abolished the traffic in slaves by her own subjects. In 1817, she had entered into a treaty with Spain for the abolition of the slave trade by the subjects of his Catholic Majesty, paying the latter £400,000 as the price of his assent. In 1820, she had entered into a similar treaty with the Emperor of Brazil, whereby the latter renewed, recognized, and adopted the treaties that had previously been entered into, and were then subsisting between Great Britain and Portugal, for the 12* 138 BRITISH WEST INDIES. "•'• ''I entire suppression of the slave trade. And now, in 1833, she de- clared her resolution to pay £20,000,000 to her own subjects, for the emancipation of the slaves in her own colonial possessions. In all this, the spirit which animated the counsels of England, and impelled her to these successive acts, was an intense, and seem- ingly a growing, permanent dislike to slavery in every shape and form, and a resolution to discount 3nance it in every possible way, even though the doing so involved pecuniary sacrifice and consider- able loss. Such were undoubtedly the circumstances under which the Emanc:patiou Bill — a bill the preamble of which indicated, that it was intended to ameliorate the condition of the planter as well as of the slave — was carried. No one who remembers the ex- citement that prevailed in Great Britain, and the numerous public meetings held in almost every city, town, village^ hamlet, and in- stitution, in every part of the country, to strengthen the hands of the Emancipationists, will be disposed to deny that the facts were as I have stated them. Now, such being the circumstances attending the passing of the emancipation statute, were or were not the West Indian planters en- titled to regard it as part of their compensation or protection against loss, that they would never have, in the home market at least, to compete with produce grown and manufactured by slaves ? I con- fess I think they were. I am aware that there are those who deny this, maintaining that, as no Government is entitled to bind its suc- cessor, so no party treating with a Government is entitled to rely on its successor following out the same line of policy. But this is surely a very latitudinarian view of state morality. Suppose that the Go- vernment of the day had only paid one-fourth or one-half of the compensation-money, and that the Government that succeeded it, while it adhered to the statute as a law, yet refused to make payment of the remainder of the sum due, — would any one have attempted to justify such a course ? And if not, what is the diflference between refusing a part of the promised vnoney compensation, and a part of the implied protective compensation ? Moreover, whatever view the greatest advocate for the principle that one Government cannot bind a succeeding one, may take of this matter, he will not surely deny that it is a most extraordinary position of matters, when we see a Government professing to approve of the general policy of their pre- decessors in oflfice; and yet going back from that same policy and act- ing in opposition to it in part. Nothing surely could be further from the thought of the most desponding West Indian planter than the idea that, while England voted so large a sum in 1833 towards put- ting an end to slavery in her own colonies, she would, in 1846, pass an act which would have the direct eifect of encouraging and increas- ing slavery in the possessions of other countries. And yet that such wa 181 evj BRITISH WEST INDIES. 139 I 1833, she de- u subjects, for ossessions. In England, and nse, and seem- rery shape and r possible way, e and consider- 3S under which lich indicated, the planter as lembers the ex- imerous public lamlet, and in- sn the hands of i the facts were passing of the ian planters en- otcction against ket at least, to slaves ? I con- ihose who deny to bind its sue- itled to rely on lit this is surely }e that the Go- me-half of the succeeded it, make payment e attempted to rence between and a part of Itever view the t cannot bind surely deny hen we see a of their pre- olicy and act- further from ter than the towards put- in 1846, pass and increas- I yet that such was the tendency, and that such has been the effect of the act of 1846, I will immediately show by the most conclusive of all evidence. Before, however, leaving the subject of the twenty millions, and although the circumstance does not enter into the general argument, it may, for the sake of accuracy, and to prevent cavil, be proper to notice the fact, that, while the twenty millions were voted, the whole of that sum was not paid. The sum actually awarded was £18,669,- 401 10s. Id. ; while, even of this last-mentioned sum, the West Indian colonists only received £16,461,000. These facts do not enter into the principle of my argument, although they tend to show still further that full compensation never was contemplated. But as there is a very general tendency to throw this twenty millions in the teeth of our West Indian friends, and many still believe that sum to have been actually paid, it is but right that the misconception should be removed by a statement of the truth. The argument, however, is independent of this fact. Who could have thought that England would tax herself to the extent of some £800,000 per annum to prevent her own colonists supplying her with cheap sugar by means of slave labour, and yet that, in a few years later, she would pass an act which admitted slave-grown sugar the produce of foreign possessions ? That there was a distinct bargain or contract between the colonists and the mother country, to the effect that slave- grown sugar never was to be admitted into the markets of this country to compete on equal terms with British colonial free-grown sugar, and that the fact that they were to be protected against the competi- tion of slaveholders was an argument used to make our colonists con- tented with the Emancipation Act, I am ready to prove — ready to prove it by a mass of testimony, and to the satisfaction of the most incredulous jury that ever were impannelled in a jury-box. Nay, more, I am ready to show that British Ministers have again and again admitted that such was the fact ; that Lord Stanley, when, by mistake, he had used the words " slave-grown" for " foreign-grown," when speaking of a differential duty between foreign and British colo- nial sugar, and when the mistake was noticed, replied by admitting the mistake, adding that every one must have seei that it was a mis- take, inasmuch as no one could ever think that Britain would admit slave-grown sugar into her markets, after her costly sacrifice to pre- vent sugar being made in her own colonies by means of slave labour. And Lord Glenelg, at a later date, made a well-known statement to the effect that they who were so foolish as to believe that Parliament would break its faith with the planters of the West Indies, by ad- mitting slave-grown sugar into equal competition with that produced by them, displayed, by so believing, an " incapacity for conducting the ordinary afiairs of life and business.'' 140 BRITISH WEST INDIES. Uut apart from the question of contract, which is one of evidence, there is the natural, the necessary conclusion to be drawn — the con- clusion which no one could avoid drawing — from the act itself. If at such cost England tied the hands of her own colonists as to the kind of labour by which they should make sugar, would any sane person have believed that she would buy her sugar from foreigners who made it in the very way she had so seriously and emphatically objected to and protested against ? The idea could not have been entertained for a moment. I maintain J then, that part of the compensation to he given the British colonists was, protection from competition with the slaveholder of Cuba, Porto Rico, and Brazil; end that the same principle of justice was violated by depriving him of this, as would have been vio- lated in depriiing him of a portion of the £20,000,000 which was the comjyensation in money. Another subject of complaint, on the part of the West Indian colonist, against the conduct of the mother country, has reference to the abolition of the apprenticeship system in 1838. It was, say they, our bargain that we should have our full share of the £20,000,000 in money, the home market for our free-grown sugar, and an apprenticeship of seven years. But the mother country broke the bargain as to the last, by putting an end to the appren- ticeship three years before the legal term of its expiry. There is much truth in this complaint, and I know of individual cases of great hardship which occurred in connexion with it. In particular, I know of a gentleman of British Guiana who was thereby utterly and unexpectedly stripped of the great bulk of a very handsome for- tune. But still, with better arguments at my disposal, I am not inclined to press this one. There is an answer to it, which, if it does not meet the complaint, at least complicates the case. The planters of Antigua, from causes peculiar to that metropolitan island, declined the apprenticeship ; and this fact, combined with authen- ticated cases in which the apprenticeship was abused, gave the Government of the country at least a plausible excuse for bringing the apprenticeship system to a summary termination. Before leaving the subject of the price paid by England in token of her horror of slavery, and her resolution to put down production by means of slave labour, it is proper to refer to the annual cost of the squadron, and of the mixed conlmission, to prevent the slave trade from being carried on by the subjects of Spain and of Brazil. Enough has been sa d on this subject in a former part of this book; but the argument would not be complete were this part of the price paid by us, in the cause of humanity, to be kept out of view. And now, to what end has all this anti-slavery policy been gone back upon, if not stultified, by the legislation of 1846 and subse- BRITISH WEST INDIES. 141 le of evidence, awn — the con- act itself. If lists as to the 'ould any sane rom foreigners d emphatically not have been ) be given the the slaveholder le principle of ' have been vio- 000 which was e West Indian las reference to . It was, say share of the 3e-grown sugar, Qother country to the appren- ►iry. There is ridual cases of In particular, hereby utterly handsome for- )Osal, I am not it, which, if it e case. The politan island, with authen- [sed, gave the for bringing |;land in token m production Innual cost of 3nt the slave Ind of Brazil. )f this book; of the price view. been gone and Bubsc- ! quent thereto ? That it has been so — that the act of 1846, altered, amended and extended as it was by the act of 1848, has operated as a direct encouragement to slavery and to the slave trade, and inflict- ed a heavy blow upon our own free colonies, already nearly prostra- ted — J8 now conceded by almost every one who has visited the West Indies. But lest there should be any who would desire some proof on the subject, let me briefly record a few of the leading facts. Of the value of the slave trade — of the permission and means to cultivate their estates by slave labour, to the inhabitants of tho island of Cuba — some graphic idea may be obtained from reflecting on the fact stated by Lord Castlereagh, when delivering, in the British House of Commons, his speech upon the bill for concluding with Spain the treaty of 1817 for the suppression of the slave trade, (by which treaty Great Briton covenanted to pay Spain £400,000 as the price of her assent His Lordship mentions a well-known fact — viz. that the merchuuts of Havanna had offered the Spanish Government many times the amount of the payment to have nothing to do with the treaty. " So far," says Lord Castlereagh, " from our money being the only motive which Spain has for acceding to this treaty, the Spanish merchants at Havanna had ofiiered five times the amount (two millions sterling,) for the privilege of continuing tho slave trade !" It is a somewhat humbling commentary on this state- ment of Lord Castlereagh, and oi^ our own capacity, as a nation, to trade, to know that, although our French neighbours call us a nation of shopkeepers, we have allowed ourselves to be so far overreached in this bargain, that Spain has got the mor.ey from both. Tho £400,000 she got in cash from lavish England; the £2,000,000 she has got from Cuba, chiefly by the tax of fifty dollars a-head on all slaves imported into it, in direct evasion of tlie aforesaid slave treaty. As above mentioned, Cuba has been somewhere called the milch-cow of Spain ; and well does she merit the appellation, yielding, as sho docs, not less than fifty millions of reals, or about half a million sterling, of direct annual revenue to the Spanish crown. That it is her slave trade, and her consequent ability to cultivate her fields with slave labour, that enables her to yield this large amount from taxation, is abi;ndantly well known to all who have made the sub- ject their study No doubt Cuba is favoured as a place of produc- tion by the great fertility of her soil, its adaptation for the growth of tobacco as well as of sugar, and also by many other circumstances ; but the cheapness and other advantages of her slave labour, consti- tute undoubtedly the main reason why she is able so to undersell the British West Indian colonist. That the effect of the Sugar Act of 1846 was to give an in- creased impetus to the slave trade, and to advance tho prosperity of the slave- owner of Spain and Brazil, has often been shown 142 BRITISH WEST INDIES. iStf't The statement has indeed been denied, and attention has, in the way of answer, been directed to the fact that, in 1846, before the act passed the British legislature, or at least before intelligence of its having passed could have reached Brazil, or the colonies of Spain, the slave trade was in active and increased operation. But this is a mere evasion of the argument. If the general rumour, that such an act was in preparation, and likely to be carried, was not sufl&cient to account for such activity by anticipation, as I think it was, there remains the well known fact, that after the news of the act having passed reached Cuba, land in that island rose in value full thirty per cent., and that, in the summer of 1847, the demand for slaves was greater than the slavers could supply. While, of the effect of the passing of the act on the trade in slaves, it is ascertained that while in 1834 and 1835 the trade was nearly extinct, at least in Cuba, in 184G the number of slaves imported was sixty-four thousand, and in 1847 sixty-three thousand. It is no doubt true, that the diminished number of the slaves imported into Cuba in the years first above mentioned, (1834 and 1835,) was in some measure owing to the better faith kept, at that time, with the British Government by the Spanish authorities at Madrid, and their colonial representative, General Valdez, the then Captain-general of the island of Cuba. But still, the coincidence between the passing of the act of 1846 and the vast increase in the activity of the slave trade, coupled with the acknowledged im- provement which, at the same time, developed itself in the sugar cultivation in this island, is pregnant with evidence of the most important character. It is a favourite argument with those who are disposed to defend the legislation which has, of late years, so injuriously affected the interests of the British West Indian plant- ers, that their necessities will compel these gentlemen to more eco- nomical management, and to the adoption of modern improve- ments on cane cultivation and in sugar making. No doubt it is a truism that what a man has not, he cannot, of his own, spend, either in lavish management or otherwise. But without here going further into the general argument, or doing more than affirming that the British colonial planters have retrenched their expenses of management in every possible way, (pared them down to one half of what they formerly were,) and also that they have been most liberal in their introduction of steam-engines, improved ploughs, and patent pans, et hoc genus omne, it may be here asked, whether this fact — that it was an increase in the demand, aud in their profits, and not a falling off, that induced the planters of Cuba and of Porto llico to improve their estates and sugar-works — does not practically irUitate against the above application of the theory of " necessity the mother of invention.'* BRITISH WEST INDIES. 143 m has, in tlio 16, before the 3 intelligence be colonies of eration. But leral rumour, 3 carried, was lipation, as I hat after the n that island amer of 1847, could supply, 'ade in slaves, de was nearly ives imported usand. of the slaves ;d, (1834 and I kept, at that authorities at Idez, the then le coincidence 3t increase in lowledged im- in the sugar of the most th those who ate years, so Indian plant- i to more eco- ern improve- doubt it is a own, spend, ut here going han affirming heir expenses down to one ey have been es, improved ■e here asked, nand, aud in planters of 1 sugar-works ication of the But while such was the effect of the Sugar Duties Bill of 1846, and subsequent legislation of 1848, in enhancing the value of pro- perty in slaveholding and sugar-producing countries, and in increas- ing the activity of the slave trade, what has been their effects on the ■ property of our own colonists in the West Indies ? That is a matter 1 of too great notoriety to justify or require lengthened statement or illustration. That the British West Indian colonists have been loudly complaining that they are ruined, is a fact so gene-ally acknow- ledged, that the very loudness and frequency of the complaint has been made a reason for disregarding or undervaluing the grounds of it. That the West Indians are always grumbling is an observation often heard j and, no doubt, it is very true that they are so. But let any one who thinks that the extent and clamour of the complaint exceeds the magnitude of the distress which has called it forth, go to the West Indies, and judge for himself. Let him see with his own eyes the neglected and abandoned estates — the uncultivated fields fast hurrying back into a state of nature, with all the speed of tropical luxuriance — the dismantled and silent machinery, the crum- bling walls and deserted mansions, which are familiar sights in most of the British West Indian colonies. Let him then transport him- self to the Spanish Islands of Porto Rico and Cuba, and witness the life and activity which in these slave colonies prevail. Let him observe for himself the activity of the slavers — the improvements daily making in the cultivation of the helds, and in the processes carried on at the Ingenios or sugar-mills, and the general indescrib- able air of thriving and prosperity which surrounds the whole — and then let him come back to England and say, if he honestly can, that the British West Indian planters and proprietors are grumblers who complain without adequate cause. Take Jamaica, the chief of the British islands, as a sample of the present condition of the British possessions in these seas, and ex uno dlsce omnes. It appears from the report of the committee of the House of Assembly in that island, appointed in 1847 to inquire into the cause and extent of the agricultural distress, that, of the 653 sugar estates in cultivation in Jamaica in the year 1834, (the year of emancipation) only 503 were cultivated in 1847, the remaining 150 estates, containing 168,032 acres of land, and employing upwards of 23,000 labourers, having been abandoned. This was in 1847 : the downward 'endency has certainly not been checked since then — matters are now a great deal worse than they were in 1847 as regards the growth of the sugar-cane in Jamaica. Were we to take into view the coffee cultivation, the detail would be still more distressing. To the one fact above stated a thousand might be added, and all to the same disheartening effect j but the one fact will be easiest remem- bered, and it speaks volumes. The same observation as to the deser- 144 BRITISH WEST INDIES. , ) tion of estates may be made with regard to all the other colcnics, (Barbadoes alone excepted,) though not to the same extent or in the same proportion. In particular, British Guiana has suffered much from the abandonment of estates ; and even while I write, I have before me ^supplied me by the kindness of an intelligent friend in that colony) a list of fifty-six cotton, coffee, but chiefly sugar estates, deserted and abandoned in that productive and vast possession of late years, because wholly unprofitable. Indeed, this colony has suffered very severely and peculiarly from this cause ; which arises no doubt from the great extent of territory embraced within its limits, and the paucity of the negro population wherewith to carry on the cultivation. No doubt, it has been said that much of the unprofitable results of sugar cultivation in the British West Indies is due to the profuse habits of the planters and proprietors, and the expensive system of agriculture and manufacture which they pursued ; and it has been further said, that if they introduced machinery — steam-engines, and patent processes for preparing their sugar — they would so cheapen the prod actions as at once to put themselves in a position success- fully to compete with the slaveholder. In so far as this charge of profuse management applies to sugar cultivation in the British West Indies, up to the passing of the Emancipation Act, or even for some time subsequent thereto, I might, as the result of my inquiries into the past condition of the colonies, be prepared to admit that there was some truth in it. Large profits will generally, and in all coun- tries, lead to undue profusion both of living and of management; and it were idle to deny that, for many years, the profits from West Indian cultivation were great — were occasionally very great when compared with the remuneration from other sources of investment. So late even as the year 1846, the British colonists were getting in the markets of this country so high a price for their sugar as from £38 to £40 for a hogshead, weighing from seventeen or eighteen hundredweight; and, when it is kept in view that an acre of planted canes would produce two-and-a-half or three of such hogsheads; and that, excessively various as certainly are the estimates of the cost of sugar-making in the different colonies, or even on different estates in the same colony, few would (stimate that expense in 1846 at more than from 18s. to 20s. a hundredweight, exclusive of freight and shipping charges, it cannot be denied, even by the colonist of most extravagant hopes, that the above-stated remuneration was at a very handsome rate. This extreme remuneration, however, was only for a short time, and in very peculiar circumstances. But if the charge of profusion of living, expensiveness of manage- ment, or neglect of modern improvements, is intended to apply to to the state of all or of any of the islands of Barbadoes, Antigua, St. Kitt' BRITISH WEST INDIES. 145 Dthcr colonios, ctcnt or in the mffered much write, I have ;ent friend in sugar estates, ssession of late \y has suffered rises no doubt its limits, and carry on the fitable results to the profuse sive system of d it has been a-engines, and Id so cheapen sition success- this charge of British West even for some inquiries into ait that there d in all coun- management ; ts from Weat jT great when f investment. ire getting in ugar as from or eighteen re of planted hogsheads; mates of the on different lense in 1846 ive of freight e colonist of 'ation was at lowever, was )S. s of manage- to apply to Antigua, St. Kitt's, Nevis, Montscrrat, or Jamaica, in the year 1849, 1 give it ad- visedly and deliberately the most emphatic, decided, and unqualified contradiction. As regards improvements in modes of cultivation, and the introduction of steam-engines and other machinery, the won- der only is, that, with such a backgoing trade, the West Indian plan- ters have had the courage so to lay out their own funds or come under obligations to others. Hope, however, delights to brighten the prospects of the future j and thus it is that the British West In- dian planter goes on from year to year, struggling against his down- ward progress, and still hoping that something may yet turn up, to retrieve his ruined fortunes. But all do not struggle on. Many have given in, and many more can and will confirm the statement of a venerable friend of my own — a gentleman high in office in one of the islands above-mentioned — who, when showing me his own estate and sugar-works, assured me, that for above a quarter of a century they had yielded him nearly £2000 per annum j and that now, de- spite all his efforts and improvements, (which were many,) he could scarcely manage to make the cultivation pay itself. Instances of this kind might be multiplied till the reader was tired, and even heart- sick, of such details. But what need of such ? Is it not notorious ? Has it not been proved by the numerous failures that have taken place of late ^ ears, among our most extensive West Indian merchants ? Are not the reports of almost all the governors of our colonial posses- sions filled with statements to the effect, that great depreciation of property has taken place in all and each of our West Indian colonies, and that great has been the distress consequent thereupon ? These governors are, of course, all of them imbued, to some extent, with the Ministerial policy — at least it is reasonable to assume that they are so. At all events, whether they are so or not, their position almost necessitates their doing their utmost to carry out, with suc- cess, the Ministerial views and general policy. To embody the sub- stance of the answer given by a talented Lieutenant-governor, in my own hearing, to an address which set forth, somewhat strongly, the ruined prospects and wasted fortunes of the colonists under his go- vernment, — " It mup.c, or it ought to be, the object and the desire of every Governor or Lieutenant-governor, in the British West Indian islands, to disappoint and stultify, if he can, the prognostications of coming ruin with which the addresses he receives from time to time are continually charged." Yet what say these Governors ? Do not the reports of one and all of them confirm the above statement as to the deplorable state of distress to which the West Indian planters, in the British colonies, are now reduced ? No doubt, (and the pages of any popular review since 1807 bear testimony to the fact,) we have had a long continuance of complaint — nay, even of the cry of distress — from the West Indian proprietors. Since the abolition of 13 146 BRITISH WEST INDIES. M- the slave trade, we have never wanted the party watchword of "jus- tice to the colonies." But let us take care that we do not apply the philosophy of the fable of the boy and the wolf. Whatever may have been the amount of cause for complaint in days gone by, there is no doubt of the fact that now the British West Indian planters have been brought, actually and literally, to the verge of ruin ; and I know not what that minister or statesman would deserve of this country, who would devise and carry out the measure that would lead to a restoration to a self-supporting or moderately prosperous condition. Often, while witnessing those evidences of decadence, which were so constantly obtruding themselves, did I wish that the vote could have been taken over again on the Sugar Duties Bill of 1846 — each member of the House of Commons having, previous to voting, prepared himself by a trip through the West Indian islands. How different would have been the result ! It is one thing to hear a matter discussed, particularly where there is only a half or a halt- ing account given of its truth, but it is quite another thing to con- template the facts of the case for one's self; and thoroughly confident am I that, as " seeing is believing," if our legislators saw the actual condition of our West Indian colonies, there would not be perseve- rance in the present system of legislation regarding them — or, if there was, some counteracting nnd remedial measures at least would be devised and carried out. In the colonial speech of the Premier of Great Britain, in the early part of the present session of Parliament, he distinctly and emphatica^y enunciated these positions, — "That England must retain her colonies ; and that, while it was her duty as well as her interest so to do, she could not, consistently with the discharge of thaJ; duty or with her general policy, permit the native or imported races in any portion of these possessions to relapse into barbarism." These are noble principles and professions. How they are all to be carried out as regards the West Indian colonies, consistently with perseverance in free trade in sugar — slave as well as free grown — it passes my comprehension to know. And where is all this downward tendency — this facilis descensus — to end ? The object in view in passing the statutes of 1846 and 1848 was cheap sugar, and to carry out the principles of free trade in all their integrity and purity. It was and is said, (and truly said,) that sugar has become, not an article of luxury, but of necessity; and also that the consumption of it is increasing and will incr^nse; and that it is unjust to tax the home consumer for the benefit of the colonial producer. And it is farther said, that, having adventured on a great experiment of free trade, it behoved the Government to carry it out in all its integrity ; that it would not have done to have stopped short in its application, from a BRITISH WEST INDIES. 147 rord of "jus- Qot apply the hatever may one by, there idian planters of ruin; and jserve of this e that would ly prosperous 3f decadence, wish that the duties Bill of g, previous to ndian islands, thing to hear lalf or a halt- thing to con- ghly confident iaw the actual ot be perseve- them — or, if at least would ritain, in the listinctly and ngland must well as her discharge of 3 or imported ) barbarism." ey are all to consistently well as free 'ills descensus of 1846 and of free trade , (and truly ury, but of reusing and onsumer for r said, that, , it behoved at it would tion, from a regard to any one particular interest. Now these arguments may, to a certain extent, and as postulates, be conceded, without justify- ing the Ministerial policy in reference to the Sugar Duties Bill, and the subsequent legislation. I say to a certain extent ; for I do not mean to carry the admission the length of holding that cheap sugar is a matter of so much necessity as to justify the Govern- ment in promoting a reduction of its price in the home market, /as aut nefas — by unlawful as well as by lawful means — by breach of agreement as well as by more legitimate courses. Nor do I mean to admit that " free trade" is so desirable ; or that, onco adventured on, even as an experiment, it is so necessary to apply it to everything — to cairy it out in all its integrity — foi that is the clap-trap phrase — that everything must give way to such conside- rations, so as to leave no room for exceptional cases. But, short of carrying the admission this insane length, it may be conceded that sugar is an article, not merely of luxury to the rich, but of necessity to the poor, so that the Government are bound to do everything lawful to cheapen the sugar market ; and further, that free trade, once adventured on, should not be abandoned till fairly tried, and until the results, being tested by experience, are found to be unjust and injurious. But mark the answers that remain, even after such admissions have been made. The measure of 1846 will not, in the end, tend to the cheapening of the sugar market in this country. It will necessarily leati to the withdrawal of tlio British colonists from the competion — if not to the lapsing of the British "West Indian islands into a state of Haytian semi-barbarism and unproductiveness — if they do not, in the hands of some other power, and when abandoned by England, return to an enslaved condition. Again, and with reference to the second branch of tlio argument under answer, the principles of free trade can never bo properly applied, if the effect of the application be to place in one and the same category the man who is unfettered in his mode of working, and the man who is fettered. Not to weary my readers, I shall content myself with a very few simple remarks, in illustra- tion of my meaning as regards both of these positions. Sugar has fallen in price since the passing of the act in 1846. Every old lady knows the fact in the saving of her twopence or threepence a-week, and many, no doubt, rejoice in it. But why has it fallen ? Because slave-grown sugar was then admitted to compete with and keep down the price of free-grown sugar. The first and immediate effect was to produce a great diminution in the importation of sugar from the British possessions in the West In- dies — only 107,368 tons being thence brought in 1846, while 142,700 tons were imported in 1845. No doubt, the statute retained an advantage in favour of free- grown sugar, in the shape of a gradually lessening protective duty 148 BRITISH WEST INDIES. — (although, it may be remarked in passing, that it will be found, on a comparison of the scales of duty for the diflFerent kinds of sugar, that this advantage is not quite so great as at first sight appears.) But I have written to little purpose if I have not already shown that sugar produced by the labour of slaves can aiford to give " free-grown sugar" even a greater advantage than the statute concedes to it. In a circular of Messrs. Drake, Brothers, & Co., of Havanna, for the year 1844 (the writers being then, and I pre- sume now, among the leading merchants of that town of gay life and unsavoury smells,) it is openly announced to the world, " That they (Messrs. D. B. & Co.) had no expectation of the price of sugar (i. €. Cuban sugar) being improved, except by having the English market opened to the produce of the island ;" adding, " if this were effected, at a rate even of Ji/t^ per cent, above the duty on English colonial sugar, still they should obtain for their produce double the amount they can obtain at present." This is surely sufl&ciently cool and conclusive. These long-headed, enterprising Havanna merchants quietly tell *heir equally knowing customers, that fifty per cent, of a differencial duty, in favour of the British planter, would virtually be bui. little of a protection ; or, at least, that the slave-owner of Cuba could easily afford him so much. When we find practical men addressing practical men in such terms as these, it is surely not to be wondered at that our West Indian suffering friends should display some degree of impatience when they hear it urged in the high places of Parliament, and elsewhere, that with economy of management, and improvements in cultivation, they ought to be able to contend successfully in a competition with sugar which is the produce of slave-labour. To the same effect, and in strict consistency, we find the intel- ligent foreign merchants above referred to — Messrs. Drake, Bro- thers, and Co. of Havanna — on the 8th of January, 1848, address- ing their constituents in these terms — the intelligent reader will mark the contrast, — "The production of 1847 has far exceeded that of any previous year, and the prices obtained by planters have been so highly remunerative, that they are enabled to adopt every means for the further extension of their crops." And that the cause of such unprecedented prosperity of the slave-owner, and of his highly remunerative prices, which so enabled him to carry out the most extensive improvements on his cane cultivation, might not be disputed or unappreciated by himself or others, another circular says — " During the past year the prices of sugar in our markets wore supported at high rates, with but slight and tempo- rary fluctuations, notwithstanding the large crop. This was mainly owing to the unprecedentcdly heavy shipments to the United States and to Great Britain ^ aided by a well-sustained inquiry from Spain, BRITISH WEST INDIES. 149 ill be found, ent kinds of Eit first sight B not already 5an afford to n the statute ;hers, & Co., a, and I pre- i of gay life ToAd, " That rice of sugar the English ttg, "if this the duty on heir produce [lis is surely enterprising g customers, the British or, at least, im so much, nen in such at our West f impatience liament, and iprovements jssfully in a ibour. d the intel- Drake, Bro- 48, address- reader will ar exceeded anters have adopt every id that the ner, and of carry out tion, might rs, another igar in our and tempo- waa mainly lited States rom Spain, with a fair demand from other parts." To show that the writers of these circulars were quite correct, in ascribing the increase in the Cuban production of 1847 over that of 1846 to the opening of the British markets, and the supporting of the prices to the " un- precedentedly heavy shipments to Great Britain," it may be pro- per to mention the fact, that the quantity of foreign sugar (a large portion of it being from Cuba) imported into Great Britain in 1847, was nearly double that of 1846 ; the respective quantities being 63,211 tons of foreign sugar imported in 1846, and 123,762 tons of foreign sugar imported in 1847. It was a free-trade argument used by Mr. Bright, in 1848, that the statute of 1846 could not be said to have increased the slave trade — or, in other words, the prosperity of the slave countries and colonies — seeing that the number of slaves imported into Cuba in 1846 exceeded (which they did by about a thousand) the number imported in 1847. And it has often, in the British House of Com- mons and elsewhere, been said, that the evidence adduced on the subject of West India distress is to be regarded with distrust and suspicion, being the evidence of interested parties. But without going into this oft-agitated question, or attempting any auswer to this very convenient way of disposing of the concurrent statements of a host of persons, all otherwise most credible, what is to be said of this evidence from the slaveholders themselves ? We have here a statement on the part of the Cubans, that they were able, even before the passing of the act of 1846, to undersell the British colo- nist, were he protected in the home market by a differential duty of fifty per cent ; and further, we have the same parties consistently accounting for the large crop and highly remunerating prices of 1847, by attributing both to the encouragement given, and demand created, by the large exportation to Great Britain consequent on the passing of that act. Nor can it be said that it is anything connected with his climate, soil, or mode of cultivation, that gives the slaveholder so great an advantage. It cannot be said that he has surpassed, or even come up to the British colonist, in regard to the improved modes of cul- ture or of manufacturing j that has not, and cannot be said. The existence of slavery, the liberty to work his fields and manufacture his crop by means of slaves, is the alone cause which creates the difference in the expense. But if the Cuban or other slaveholder can undersell, or compete with, the British colonist, even when the latter is protected by a differential duty, what is to bo the result when the parties shall be placed on an entire equality, as they will now, under the operation of the Sugar Duties Bill, be at no very distant date ? It is this consideration I would earnestly desire to draw attention to j and, in 13* 150 BRITISH WEST INDIES. particular I would desire to draw to it the attention of tlie numerous friends of the Negro race. I make no pretensions to the spirit of prophecy, and I confess myself very much at sea as to the future prospects of these beautiful islands of the Western Archipelago, in which I passed so many pleasant days. But, without pretending to see far into the future, there are one or two things that may safely be predicated as to the ulterior results. Should the downward, ruinous tendency continue — if it be not arrested by the legislative measures of England, or by some other contin- gency — one of two things will certainly follow : either the British West Indian Islands will cease to be cultivated for the growth of sugar, and the estates, at present so occupied, will be devoted to the culture of other things; or, ceasing to be cultivated at all for purposes of exportation, these estates will be deserted entirely by their European proprietors, and either allowed to become overgrown with " bush," or be taken possession of for Negro gardens and inde- pendent villages. In either case, what becomes of our cheap sugar ? The price is now kept down chiefly by the competition between the free-grown sugar of the British possessions and the slave-grown sugar of Brazil, Cuba, and Porto Kico There is a supply from the colonial possessions of other countries, &c., but that supply is not so considerable as to aflFect the present argument. Now, what would be thp effect of the supply of sugar from the British colonial pos- sessions, in the western seas, being destroyed, or even materially lessened ? What consequ mces might naturally be expected to ensue from a serious diminution in the sugar productions of the British West Indies ?* The first most obvious answer to these questions is, — That such a falling off in the supply would of necessity produce * In reference to this part of the subject, it was in view to have given the reader a tabular statistical statement, showing the proportion which the production of, and the amount of importations /?wrt, the British West Indian possessions bears to the sugar productions of the whole world, and to the total importation of sugar into Great Britain ; and also the proportion which the British West Indian sugar re- tained for consumption, boars to tlio whole sugar consumed in this country — as well as some additional particulars on these subjects. Indeed I had possessed my- self of many materials to enable me to do this with accuracy; and, in the collection of these, had availed myself of the information and intelligence of several gentle- men practically and minutely acquainted with the sugar trade, among wliom I would respectfully name Messrs. Oonnal & Co., of Glasgow. But the details and particulars being collected, I have found the total sugar production of the whole world so variously stated, and subject to so many explanations ; the annual impor- tation of sugar linto Great Britain so tluctuating, and its consumption therein so various, (depending mainly on the rate of wages;) and the proportion between foreign sugar and molasses, and colonial sugar and molasses used in this country liable to so many qualifying explanations, that to carry out the task I thus con- templated, would liavo led mo far beyond the limits to which this Chapter ought to extend. Besides, I also found, that for all the purposes of my argument, and without in the least attecting the soundness of the conclusions arrived at, the statistical premises may be set forth in a general way, and in round numbers. Of this the reader will of courso judge for himself, when lie has completed hia perusal of my remarks. an el enhs merd Witl menl BRITISH WEST INDIES. 151 the numerous the spirit of to the future Archipelago, ►ut pretending ings that may IShould the t arrested by other contin- r the British the growth of be devoted to ited at all for d entirely by oae overgrown ens and iude- cheap sugar ? between the i slave-grown pply from the ipply is not so f, what would colonial pos- m materially cted to ensue f the British questions is, ssity produce iven the reader production of, essions bears to on of sugar into iclian sugar re- lis country — as possessed my- i the collection several gcntle- mong wliom I the details and n of the whole annual impor- :ion therein so rtion between n this country 3k I thus con- Uhapter ought irgument, and irrived at, the numbers. Of Bd his perusal an enhancing of the price. On this all are agreed. But, would this enhancement of the price be temporary or permanent ? and, if merely the former, would it endure for a great length of time ? Without, at least for the present, considering the value of the argu- ment which arises from supposing that the proper answer to this question is, that any advancement of price so created would not be of long duration — I am solicitous of considering the soundness of the opinion such an answer embodies ; and that chiefly because I have found the opinion one generally prevalent among some men whose views are entitled to the highest respect. Now, the most care- ful consideration I have been able to give the subject, leads me to the conclusion that any considerable diminution in the cultivation— and consequently in the sugar production — of the British West Indies, would to a certainty lead to such a permanent, or at least long continued, enhancement of the price of sugar in this country, as would seriously interfere with its consumption, enrich the slave- holders of Brazil and of Spain, and their respective governments, encourage slavery, and procrastinate the period of its endurance; and prove that the English sugar legislation of 1846 and 1848 had been at least but a short-sighted policy. Let the soundness of this opinion be tested by the consideration of the following facts. The production of, and the demand for, sugar throughout the world is nearly balanced ; so that any derangement in the sources of supply only leads to an enhancing of the price in all the markets j and any additional demand in one country can only be supplied by a proportionate withdrawal from the others. Nay, more : if the sup- ply of sugar has increased, the consumption has increased in even more than an equal ratio. Up to 1842, the quantity of sugar made for exportation by the whole sugar-making countries and colonies of the world, was estimated at about 670,000 tons ; in 1849, (according to the circular of Messrs Trueman & Rouse, dated Ist June of that year,) about 970,000 tons. Both these estimates are exclusive of the ibeetroot-sugar of France, Prussia, and Belgium, &c., which may safely be taken at 100,000 tons in 1842, and 90,000 tons in 1849; the production of sugar from beet having unquestionably fallen off during later years. The total sugar production of 1842 was thus under 800,000 tons, and that of 1849 above 1,050,000 tons. Now, while such was the production for the supply of this necessary of life for the whole world, what was the quantity, or about the average quantity, consumed in Great Britain ? And what was and is the proportion of that consumption supplied by those noble West Indian possessions, whose possible abandonment we are now contemplating ? Here, too, the statistics might be given in round numbers, without affecting the argument. The numbers stated will, h(>wever, be found to be as nearly as possible correct. It appears, from the valuable pMw' 152 BRITISH WEST INDIES. tables of 3Ir. Porter, that the quantity of sugar (including molasses, equivalent to sugar) retained in thic country for consumption for each of the ten years between, and inclusive of, the years 1830 and 1840, was about 200,000 tons (the numbers ranging between 190,000 tons and 220 000 tons, nearly, according to the rise and fall in the rate of wages). We have seen that, up to 1840, the total produc- tion (beetroot-sugar inclusive) was considerably short of 800,000 tons. But by 1849 both numbers had greatly increased j that which indicates the consumption of this country having, however, increased in the greater ratio. As above stated, the whole sugar (beet in- cluded) produced in 1849, may be estimated at about 1,050,000 tons. But the consumption of sugar in Great Britain for 1849 was 299,880 tons, and of molasses 40,620 tons; and, reducing the mo- lasses to sugar, the total consumption of Great Britain for 1849 may safely be stated at upwards of 317,000 tons. With the above-stated facts before hira, it is quite unnecessary to say to any one that a serious diminution in the sugar production of the British West Indian colonies would operate very injuriously on the comforts as well as on the pockets of the people of Great Britain. But we are brought even still more conclusively, to the same result, when we consider the proportion which the importation from the British possessions in the West Indies bears to the whole importa- tion of sugar into this country. If not from time immemorial, at least ever since sugar became the necessary of life it is now regarded, the sugar consumed in Great Britain has been mainly supplied from her own colonial empire. As a matter of course, this remark is made without reference to the earlier introduction of sugar into Eng- land in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, when, according to Mr. M'Oulloch, it was brought over to this country by the Venetians and Genoese in small quantities, and as an article of high luxury. Indeed, it was not till about the beginning of the eighteenth century that the consumption of sugar in Great Britain reached an amount to call for special notice. Even during the first year of that century, the total consumption was only 10,000 tons ; while up to the year 1786 the increase had raised it to 81,000 tons, or thereby. Its sub- sequent rapid increase may be understood from remarks which have been previously made ; and had it not been made so very much a subject of taxation and of revenue, there can be no doubt but that the consumption would have extended itself with much greater ra- pidity, to the increase of the population, the extension of the culti- vation, and the advancement of the general prosperity of the British West Indies. Now, till within the last few years, nearly the whole of the sugar thus supplied for home consumption has been drawn from the dependencies of Great Britain — the duty on the importa- tion on foreign sugar being so high as to amount to a prohibition, or BRITISH WEST INDIES. 153 ig molasses, imption for •s 1830 and sen 190,000 1 fall in the »tal produc- of 800,000 that which r, increased ir (beet in- ; 1,050,000 r 1849 was ing the mo- : 1849 may accessary to oduction of ariously on eat Britain, iame result, n from the le importa- emorial, at w regarded, pplied from remark is ,r into Eng- cording to ) Venetians gh luxury, ith century an amount lat century, the year Its sub- livhich have ry much a )t but that greater ra- ' the culti- the British the whole een drawn le importa- jibition, or ^ nearly so. Nay more, up to about the year 1820, almost the whole of the sugar used in this country was brought from our tropical pos- sessions in the West Indian seas. Up to the year named, the impor- tation of East Indian sugar was very trifling ; and it was not till 1825, when the sugar of the Mauritius was placed on an equal foot- ing with that imported from the British colonies in the West Indies, that the importation of sugar from the Mauritius became consider- able in its amount. Even yet, and notwithstanding the great change which has come over the spirit of our commercial policy j leaving out of view that system under which, if not in consequence of which. Great Britain attained a position of commercial greatness unrivalled in ancient, and without paralled in modem times; and notwithstanding, also, that by the philanthropic abolition of slavery in our own colonies, while it yet continued in the colonies which surrounded them, and in which produce similar to *heirs is manufactured, we have made the sugar question a special and exceptional case; notwithstanding that, in disregard of these and other considerations, the duor has been opened to a competition between foreign slave-grown and colonial free-grown sugar in the markets of this country — still, a very largs proportion of the whole sugar consumed in Great Britain is supplied from our own colonial possessions in the West Indian Archipelago. By les- sening the number of labourers for conducting the operations in the fields, or at the boiling-house and distillery, one of the effects of the Emancipation Act was to inflict a heavy blow upon the production of the British West Indies. It fell off very greatly. In 1834 it was 192,098 tons; in 1841 it had fallen to 107,500 tons; thereafter it revived in consequence of the introduction of machinery, and the adoption of improved modes of husbandry and manufacture, till 1846 when it again fell oflF to 107,368 tons. It has since somewhat improved, and in 1849 the quantity of sugar imported into this country from the British West Indies was 142,240 tons; while 120,870 tons were brought from the Mauritius and the East Indies, and 98,045 tons from foreign parts — all exclusive of the importation of molasses. It is thus seen that, even yet, the sugar imported from her own possessions in the West Indies forms a large proportion of the whole sugar imported into Great Britain ; so that any serious diminution in the amount of that import, (or, in other words, in the extent of the sugar cultivation of the British West Indies,) would have a very serious eflFect on the price of sugar in this country. But the most important consideration is yet to come. Nothing more conclusively appears, from a comparison of the statistical tables relative to the sugar trade, then does the fact that while, on a comparison of years, the importation of foreign sugar is increasing, that of British colo- 154 BRITISH WEST INDIES. nial is diminishing. The relative proportions may vary in different years, but the general result is as i have stated it. The supply of foreign sugar and molasses is increasing; and if matters progress even just as they have been doing, the gradual increase in the amount required will be supplied by importntions ^'rom foreign, and almost entirely from slaveholding countries and colonies, to the great en- couragement of slavery and of the slave trade, if not to the ruin of the free sugar-growing colonies of Great Britain. But will not a continuance of the pres3nt tystem eventuate in the ruin of the British West Indian colonies, al least as sugar-producing countries ? To my mind it appears that it must do so. Already the present competition in the home market, between free and slave grown sugar, has had the eflfect of throwing out of cultivation many of the sugar estates in the British possessions. If such is the case even now, when there exists a protective or differential duty of about 5s. 9d. per cwt., what is to be the effect in 1854, when the opera- tion of this principle of competition has been pushed to its climax 'i Must not that effect be the sure, though gradual, withdrawal of the British West Indian colonists altogether from the competition ? And if so, must not the price of sugar then rise, and rise very greatly ? No doubt it has been and may be said, that even were such a deplo- rable result to be the legitimate issue of a continuance of our free- trade policy as regards the article of sugar yet £he effect would not be the permanent enhancement of the pn e of this now necessary commodity, inasmuch as any serious falling off in the production in the British colonies would stimulate production in foreign countries, and the extent of territory in which sugar might be grown being very great, the consequence of that stimulated production would bo the maintenance of present prices. Now, apart from the answer to this argument, that it resolves the whole question into one of cheap- ness of price, I more than question its soundness j nay, I deny that ?t id sound. We have seen that, even with the production of the tropical possessions of England in the West Indies, the production of the sugar produced in all parts of the globe has not increased in a greater ratio than the demand for it has done ; and we have also seen how large a proportion of that total production is the sugar made in the British West Indian possessions. I cannot, therefore, suppose that even the most enthusiastic advocate for the integrity of free-trade principles, or the most credulous believer in the suffi- ciency of such principles to maintain and preserve a due equilibrium between the demand and the supply, can imagine that, should the time ever come when the competition of Brazilian, Cuban, and other slave-grown sugar shall have driven the British planter out of the market, the former will not have a virtual monopoly of the sugar market^ and the advantage of the enhanced prices which such mono- I ■ y in different riie supply of itters progress in the amount 1, and almost the great en- to the ruin of entuate in the igar-producing Already the Vee and slave tivation many ih is the case duty of about en the opera- te its climax 't bdrawal of the )etition? And very greatly ? such a deplo- e of our free- bet would not aow necessary production in ign countries, grown being tion would be he answer to one of cheap- ', I deny that uction of the le production t increased in we have also 1 is the sugar ot, therefore, the integrity in the suffi- equilibrium t, should the an, and other !r out of the of the sugar 1 such mono- BRITISII WEST INDIEiS. 155 poly will of necessity create. Is there any one, who knows anything of the statistics of the sugar trade, who supposes for a moment that the supply of sugar to be had from the British possessions in the East, the Mauritius, the free colonies of other countries, or any other place, would suffice to prevent the production of such a result ? Tho sugar annually made by means of slaves in Brazil, and in the colo- nies of Spain, at present amounts to nearly a third more than the whole quantity made in the British West Indian colonies, British India, and the Mauritius. Were the first of the three last-mentioned sources of supply cut off, (as my argument supposes,) the production from the two last-mentioned would not amount to much more than the quantity at present exported from Brazil alone. It is not, then, to be supposed that even the party most desirous of the continuance of the present system of colonial policy, and most prepared to go the whole length of meeting all the consequences that may or can result from its application, rather than go back upon any part of this favour- ite theory of free trade, will be disposed to conduct the argument upon the assumption or admission, that probably, or even possibly, a continuance of the present system cf placing slave-grown and free- grown sugar on an equality, in the home market, may eventuate in driving the British colonist out of the market altogether. Such per- son will rather be disposed to deny the probability, or even the pos- sibility, of such a result. Indeed, it is plainly^ the only course which there is left for him to pursue. It would never do to suppose tho possibility of our West Indian colonies ceasing entirely to export sugar to the mother country. Not only is the very idea one that, if seriously entertained, would rouse the feelings and excite the ener- gies of the whole nation ; not only would it involve the supposition, that all oft-quot2d £20,000,000 of compensation money had been thrown away; not only would it be to assume that all Britain's efforts to ameliorate the condition of the unfortunate sous of Ham in the West Indies had only terminated in leaving them in a worse condition that that in which they were, when first, in 1807, our course of legislative philanthropy was adventured on j not only would the idea of the British West Indian colonists abandoning the culti- vation of the sugar-cane involve all this and more : it would likewise involve the admission that the policy of the sugar duties, statutes of 1846 and 1848 had failed; that, while the object aimed at by our new legislative acts was to cheapen sugar to the British consumer, that object had not been eventually attained — nay, the result had been the other way. After a few years of cheapness, caused by un- equal competition between slave and free grown sugar, the produc- tion of the latter had been given up as unprofitable ; and the manu- facturer of the former, having it all his own way, or nearly so, had advanced prices to a higher point than they had ever attained before 156 iiHITTSH WEST INDIES. the ititrotluction of tlnj meaffuro wliich had thus driven the British planter from the field cf competition. l!:upposing the Cuban or lirazilian to be actuated by the ordinary principles of human nature, such a result may be predicated, with certainty, as the issue of the British West Indies being driven out of the sugar market. But even supposing these parties to be so negligent to their own interests, or so enamoured of the principles of free trade, as to allow prices to remain at the minimum to which competition had reduced them, there is still the little less than cer- tainty of the Spanish and Brazilian governments imposing export duties, or additional export duties, so soon as they found that their doing so would not prevent the consumption of their sugar by Eng- land and her possessions. Now, if there be any probability in the views above stated — if there be any grounds even, for supposing that the result contemplated is within the immense cycle of possible things — is this not a subject which is well worthy of the serious consideration, not only of the statesmen and legislators of this great country, but of the whole thinking portion of the nation ? And if it be the fact, as many do no\ aver, and offer to prove it to be, (by a host of witnesses too prac- tical to be themselves deceived, too honest to desire to deceive others, cad too consistent and concurrent in their testimony to be easily gainsayed), that the anticipated issue is, even now, in operation ; that the resultts of that legislation which will in 1854 place colonial, free, and foreign slave-grown sugar on an equal footing, — in respect of duties, for, relative value considered, they are already on an equality — has been to lessen, and will be to destroy, the production of the former kind altogether, — surely it is high time for all who feel an interest in the welfare of England, or of her West India colonies, or even a desire for permanent cheapness, of sugar, to exert themselves, if they may, by so doing, discover a means whereby so great an evil may be prevented or avoided. Here the question is only considered as it is likely to affect the interests of the sugar con- sumers of Great Britain. We have, for the present, nothing to do with the eiFects of the possible or probable lessening or abandonment of sugar cultivation of the West Indies by the British colonist, on the condition and destinies of these colonies, or of the Negro race which at present inhabit them — that is a separate question j and it is a wide and an important one, for which we may, or may not, have room to treat in this work. The subject here in hand is the interest the whole inhabitants of Great Britain have in the consideration of the question of whether a continuance of that legislation, which will eventually place slave and free productions on an equal footing in the markets of England, is, or is not, likely to lead to the abandon- ment or serious diminution of sugar cultivation in the West Indies en the British y the ordinary edicated, with Ing driven out irties to be so e principles of mm to which less than cer- posing export ind that their sugar by Eng- •ovQ stated — if b contemplated ) not a subject lot only of the of the whole 3t, as many do lesses too prac- deceive others, r to be easily peration ; that place colonial, », — in respect ilready on an ;he production e for all who er West India mgar, to exert IS whereby so he question is the sugar con- lothing to do abandonment colonist, on Negro race estion; and it may not, have is the interest Qsideration of m, which will lal footing in the abandon- 3 West Indies BRITISH WEST INDIES. 157 — and this question will be found to bo a sufficiently important one. To treat of it at the length it would justify, if dot require, were beyond the limits of a work like this; but a few facts and considera- tions will, it is conceived, be sufficient to place the subject in a light which will show that it at least deserves, and loudly calls for, the most serious attention. Were the subject not encircled with elements of painful reflection to most persons who have personally witnessed the blighted hopes and ruined fortunes of our fellow-subjects in the West Indies, it would be simply amusing to see the manner in which the topic of West Indian distress is generally treated, by specimens of every class of politicians in this country. It is not confined to one class, it seems to pervade all — Tory, Conservative, Whig, Radical, and Chartist- all seem to adopt something of the same style of getting over or away from the consideration of the subject. All the parties here referred to profess to admit the existence of West Indian distress, and all of them seem also to admit that the West Indians have not had justice done to them, and to deplore that such is the fact ; but all of them, at the same time, decline i;o commit themselves to any practical remedy, or at least decline to admit that any such remedy can possibly be looked for in an interference with their own peculiar and favourite political nostrums. The Tory or Conservative will shake his head, and, while he admits that the West Indies are nearly ruined, he will point, at the same time, to the fact that the landed in- terests of England have also had much of depressing influence to con- tend against — as if there were any proper or legitimate bond of con- nexion between the two j or as if, even though there were, the repe- tition of an injustice were an extenuation, fnstead of an aggravation, of an ofl'ence. The Radical and Chartist, also, will complacently admit the fact of West Indian depression ', but they will, at the same time, declaim loudly of sugar being now a necessary of the poor man's life — of the advantages of cheap sugar — and of its being expe- dient, in all cases, that a nation should buy in the cheapest as well as sell in the dearest markets : as if it were a settled thing that the present free-trade policy, as regards this commodity, were the one most calculated to produce a permanent lowering of the price ; or as if there were nothing either in national faith, or in national consist- ency, where self-interest, or what was supposed to be so, stood in the way. Now it is only right that all this evasion of the real argument should be put aside, and that this truly great West Indian question should be viewed apart from all political views, either of one kind or of another. The question is one of interest as well as of justice, and the sooner the nation views it in this light, the better for all par- ties. It is the interest as well as the bargain of this country, that she should protect her colonists from the competition of slave-grown 14 158 BRITISH WEST INDIES. produce. It is her bargain, because, when she tied the hands of these colonists, by precluding them from the employment of slaves in the cultivation and management of their estates, she conditioned, OS well expressly as by implication, that at no future period would they ever find her so far and so decidedly encouraging slavery as to expose them to competition from the slave-grown produce of for- eigners, at least in the home market. It is her interest, because, it having been to demonstration and by experience proven, that, in the present state of the West Indies, culture or labour by freemen can never be so remunerative (in other words, can never compete with) the labour of slaves, the necessary effect of placing the two on equal footing must be to drive the free produce out of the market ; and, consequently, to lead eventually to the abandonment of the sugar plantations, boiling-houses, and distilleries, at present in cultivation and operation in the free colonies of England. The word advisedly used here is "eventually" — not because there is, even now, any doubt of the fact that the cultivation of a sugar estate, in most of the British colonies in the West Indies, cannot be profitably con- ducted in the face of a competition on equal terms (as will soon be the case) with the slave-grown sugar of Cuba, Porto Rico, or the Brazils — no ; the qualifying word is employed, simply because the writer has had many opportunities of observing the " hope against hope" which animates the great body of West Indian planters in the British colonies. With their all perilled on the venture, and know- ing personally and full well how important to England is the preser- vation of her colonies, as accessories and aids to her mercantile and naval supremacy, and strong in an ardent attachment to the consti- tution and institutions of their native land, these West Indian pro- prietors cannot permit themselves to believe that the present system of misgovernment is to last for ever. They cannot think that it will be allowed to work out its dire results ; they hope and trust that the eyes of those in power at home will be opened to the real exist- ing state of things ; and that the voices of the many, and the really interested, are not to be silenced or disregarded for ever, because of the mis-statements of the few, who find it to be their interests to echo — no matter at what expense of consistency or of truth — the opinions of those to whom their statements are addressed. Thus it is that the great body of West Indian planters and proprietors have gone on, year after yei^r, struggling against the difiiculties with which they have had to contend. But it were a curious inquiry — one both painful and profitable — to inquire into the sacrifices at which the struggle has been kept up. It formed one of the arguments in favour of the Emancipation Bill of 1833, that it would improve the con- dition as well of the planter as of the slave. How has this promise been kept ? No doubt, the emancipation money went to relieve the 1 BRITISFI WEST INDIES. 159 ho hands of ent of slaves ! conditioned, period would slavery as to jduce of for- itj because, it I, that, in the freemen can ompete with) two on equal uarket; and, of the sugar in cultivation Drd advisedly ^en now, any te, in most of rofitably con- i will soon be Rico, or the jT because the ' hope against ilanters in the •e, and know- is the preser- ercantile and to the consti- t Indian pro- esent system k that it will id trust that he real exist- nd the really ir, because of interests to f truth — the sed. Thus it )rietors have s with which y — one both it which the Qts in favour )ve the con- bhis promise relieve the estates that had been previously burdened with debt, and to relieve also the anxieties of many mortgages, who were previously some- what doubtful about the security on which their advances had been made. Nay, even the fact that their estates were relieved in this way from their former debts, operated injuriously as regards many of the proprietors of West Indian properties. At the time the emancipation money was paid, many of these es- tates were burdened so helplessly, and under such circumstances, that, for a present and immediate payment of two-thirds of the amount of the mortgage, the creditor who held it would have been glad to have given up his security altogether. Nay, in many cases creditors would have been well paid to have got settlement on these terras. An estate nominally valued at £ 50,000 was burdened with debt to the extent of £35,000; but the real selling value of the property was probably not much more than the amount of che mort- gage, and the holder of the security very probably would gladly have given some deduction from the amount of his bond, to have been put into possession of hard cash for the balance of it — at least he would have been so, had he foreseen the result of subsequent legis- lation. But the Emancipation Act, with its attendant compensation, came j and it being the principle of the statute that the compensation money should go, in the first place, to the wiping oflF the real debt on the burdened estates ; the mortgagee found himself in possession of a present payment of one-half of his debt, with still the security of the whole estate for the payment of the other moiety. The eflfect of this partial payment of mortgages on estates, under the operation of the emancipation statute, coupled with the depreciation in the value of West Indian properties, consequent upon the actual working of that act, has thus led to a very strange state of things, aud of feeling, in some of our West Indian possessions. I cannot better illustrate this than by giving the substance of an argument I once heard maintained by a professional friend, whose acquaintance I made in one of the Leeward Islands. Speaking of an actual case, in which he had been consulted, he told me that it was his intention to urge in court the plea that the mortgagee, seeking to foreclose, had no right to do so, for recovery of the amount or balance stated in the face of his mortgage. His reasoning, or that he purposed making use of, was this — ^You, the mortgagee, lent your £35,000, on my client's estate, at a time when you and he both believed it to be worth £ 50,000 ; and, in doing so, you acted on, and were solely influenced by that belief. But the Emancipation Act came ; and while, under its operation, you received some £ 10,000 or £ 15,000 of your debt, the other eflfect of it was to reduce the value of the whole estate to a sum not more than adequate for the payment of your balance. Seeing, then, that we both adventured on a principle or valuation 160 BRITISH WEST INDIES. ■ili' ■•m. which has turned out fallacious — seeing that the estate we mutually supposed to be worth £ 50,000 has, through the eflfects of legislative interference, turned out to be worth not more than £ 20,000, why should I, the owner, be the sole loser, while you the mortgagee, should lose nothing at all ? The fallacy in such an argument is, of course, very obvious; and I doubt not but that my sharp-witted friend himself also saw it. But the fact, that such an argument was made use of by a professional man of ability, and that it met with acceptance from the party at a governor's table who heard it, affords an element for consideration, in endeavouring to arrive at a correct estimate of the sentiments generally prevalent in the colonies them- selves, on the subject of the treatment they have received under the legislative measures of the mother country. While, however, in their hope of better things, the vast majority of the British planters in the West Indies have gone on struggling against the depreciating influences to which they have been exposed — and while I doubt not but that they, or the major niimber of them, will continue still to do so for perhaps many years to come, even though no legislative attempt should be made to arrest their down- ward progress — nay more, while even this very depression may, in illustration of the principle that " sweet are the uses of adversity," teach some of these planters an economy or frugality of living and of management they would not otherwise have practised — yet sure am I of two things, and these two things I would desire to impress on the minds of all who unite with me in the opinion that, without her colonies, England would be but a skeleton of her present self; and who, consequently, like me, desire that the prosperity of these colonies should be looked after, just as if they formed an integral part of the empire of Great Britain. The facts referred to are these : — In the first place, the evils predicated as likely to arise from ex- posing colonial sugar to an equal competition with foreif;n slava- grown sugar, have been felt in part already. In several of the colo- nies, estates formerly flourishing are now deserted, and are hastening back to a state of nature with all the luxuriant rankness of tropical vegetation. Free labour may possibly, in other circumstances, com- pete wich slave labour, even in sugar making ; but it certainly cannot do so with the means of labour at present to be had in the British West Indies — the colony of Barbadoes alone excepted. In the other colonies it has never been afforded a fair chance. In the second place, the same thing Is now going on, and is evidencing its operation by the withdrawal of capital from the cultivation of the soil and from the manufacture of the juices produced from the cut cane. The inevitable result must be — if no interposing cause prevent — that in some ten, or it may perchance be twenty years, although I cannot think it can bo so long, the sugar produutioL of thu British West BRITISH WEST INDIES. 161 5 we mutually s of legislative ; 20,000, Mvhj be mortgagee, gument is, of f sharp-witted argument was at it met with jard it, affords e at a correct colonies them- ved under the I vast majority on struggling been exposed mber of them, to come, even st their down- ssion may, in of adversity," of living and sed — yet sure ire to impress that, without present self; )erity of these ed an integral to are these : rise from ex- brei[;n slava- il of the colo- are hastening ss of tropical istances, com- rtainly cannot u the British In the other n the second its operation the soil and ut cane. The ^ent — that in igh I cannot British West i Indian colonies will form no barrier in the way of a rise of price? for the benefit of Brazil, or of the slave-employing colonies of Spain. This opinion will lo some seem extravagant; but I would that the question presently at issue between the British West Indian plant- ers and the home government could be brought to this arbitrament —could be determined by the former being brought to an assize, and challenged to the proof of the two specific positions. The desertion of estates, and the causes of such desertion, could be established by the evidence of their unfortunate owners — the only objection to their examination being the great amount of time that would be con- sumed in hearing the dispiriting statements of so many witnesses, speaking each from his own personal and dear-bought experience ; — while the continued operation of the same cause in the production of the same result, and the annual lessening of the number of acres devoted to cane cultivation, might be established — not only by the united testimonies of the West Indian planters and proprietors, but by the evidence of nearly every Governor who has held the reins of power in the West Indian colonies for the last four years. It has been already remarked that it was to be expected that these gentle- men, if not themselves thoroughly iinpressed with the wisdom of the present colonial policy, would at least do their utmost to contradict or controvert the tales of decadence and ruin which the West Indians have of late years been annually pouring forth. No doubt, neither governors nor governed could deny the extensive failures that have of late years been so common among West Indian merchants in this country, and which, it is notorious, have arisen from no other cause than the unexpected introduction of slave-grown produce to compete with the produce of those who are neither allowed to work their estates by means of slaves, nor provided with a sufficient supply of freemen wherewith to cultivate them, although the latter was un- questionably promised them. Neither could any candid man deny the evidence of back-going afforded by abandoned estates and desert- ed sugar-works — the former becoming overgrown with brushwood, with that rapidity which is characteristic of growth within the tro- pics, and the latter fast crumbling into ruin and decay. Such real evidence is not to be gainsayed. But what cannot be denied may sometimes be extenuated; and, instead of leaving the dry details to tell their own tale of blighted hopes and ruined expectations, any one, desirous of giving only a favourable account of matters, could point to grounds of hope — to collateral causes that may have aided in the production of unfortunate results — and to the removal of these minor causes as likely to lead to an amended state of matters. And, to some extent at least, this has been done by the governors of our West Indian possessions. So far as truth could justify, or as a ground of hope for the future exists, these gentlemen have been U* 162 BRITISH WEST INDIES. i i most assiduous in pointing out sources of consolation and of im- provement; and certainly the most cheering description of West Indian positions and prospects that can, without violation of truth, be given, are those contained in the able despatches and reports from such governors as Lord Harris, Colonel Reid, Mr. Higginson, or Sir Charles Grey, &c., to be found in the pages of the Blue Books. And yet what do these reports bear? Do not one and all of them bear out the assertions I have advanced- -that the consequence of the Sugar Duties Bill of 1846 has been to throw land out of culti- vation in the British colonies; and that this result is still progress- ing, and, if unchecked, must end in the serious diminution of the sugar production of the British West Indies? In a despatch of Lord Harris, of 18th September 1847, after alluding to the decrease in production, and to the abandonment of estates, his Lordship gays — " I do not hesitate to express to your Lordship my conviction, that if this colony (Trinidad) is not to be left to subside into a state of comparative barbarism, which would result from the ruin of its larger proprietors, some more than ordinary relief is necessary to support it in the contest which it, in common with the other British West Indian colonies, is now engaged in. Circumstanced as it is, / believe it incapable of successfully competing in the British market with the produce of countries in which slavery is still permitted." Colonel Reid, in 1848, thus records his sentiments — "My opinion is, that sugar cultivation, by free labour, cannot yet withstand com- petition on equal terms, with slave labour, and that freedom should be nursed by protection for a considerable time to come." And again — " If there be no protection, the cultivation of sugar will be further given up in Granada, and it will dwindle in all the Wind- ward islands, excepting Barbadoes." It will be kept in view that Colonel Reid is only reporting as to the islands composing the Wind- ward group, and that his somewhat questionable exception, even, of Little England, (Barbadoes,) is on account of its excessive popula- tion making labour cheap, and thus enabling the planters in that island to hold head against the competition of the slaveholder. It is important that this be kept in view, as it bea;^ upon the question of remedy, to be, in conclusion of this chapter, very briefly noticed. To the same effect. Governor-general Higginson, writing from, and mainly of, the populous and, as I have already shown, com- paratively prosperous island of Antigua, says, — " It must be con- ceded that, for obvious reasons, free-growu sugar can never yield so lucrative a return as that produced by foreign slaves." While with equal definiteness writes Sir Charles C. Grey from Jamaica, on 2l8t September, 1847, (and in various other despatches,) — ** There is a sincere apprehension amongst the persons most thoroughly acquainted with the subject, that, at the present Lon- BRITISH WEST INDIES. 163 n and of im- )tion of West ition of truth, d reports from Higginson, or Blue Books, id all of them onsequence of I out of culti- still progress- inution of the a despatch of to the decrease his Lordship my conviction, de into a state \ie ruin of its iS necessary to ) other British iced as it is, / British market II permitted." -" My opinion withstand com- eedom should come." And • sugar will be all the Wind- t in view that ling the Wind- )tion, even, of essive popula- mters in that lolder. It is le question of fly noticed, writing from, shown, corn- must be con- never yield so ^es." While om Jamaica, cspatches,) — 3ersons most present Lon- don of West Indian prices of West Indian sugar, and the presr-nt rate of duties, it will be impossible to carry on here^ without loss and ruin, the cultiva- tion of sugar for exportation." Sufficient as they are for the case I undertook to prove — abund- ant as they are to show, to the satisfaction of every unbiassed mind, that the ablest of the representatives of the crown of England, resi- dent in the West Indies, admit both the present desertion of estates, and its probable continuance and extension, unless some- thing be done to arrest its progress : — the passages I have quoted are far from being all that is contained, even in the despatches quoted from, to the same eflfect. Neither have these despatches been selected (any more than are the passages from them excerpted) with any degree of care ; both are taken almost at random. Nearly all the despatches from these governors to the Colonial Office, since 1840, have borne evidence to the fact of West Indian decadence, and of the impossibility of the British West Indian planter, with the means of labour at present at his command, competing with the slave-owner of Brazil, Cuba, or Porto Rico. Does not such evi- dence establish the assertion that, unless the British planter be aided or protected in some way, the result must eventually be the withdrawal of the British colonies from the competition of the sugar market ? And when such result has been produced, what then becomes of the argument of "cheap sugar"? — that argument by the use of which the people of England were reconciled to the adoption of a measure which has depressed the value of land in the British West Indian colonies far more than one half and in- creased the value of real estate in Cuba and Porto Bico fulli/ one third. If any one doubts this, let him consult any capitalist acquainted with the subject, or let him inquire if, and on what terms, money can be raised on the security of a sugar estate, boil- ing-works, and distillery in Trinidad or Jamaica, and on a sugar plantation and an inyenio in Cuba. The result will more than confirm my assertion, and startle the incredulous inquirer not a little. But the passages above quoted from some of the despatches of the Governors of the British West Indian possessions, remind me that there is yet another branch of this subject which ought not to be wholly overlooked, however shortly it may require to be noticed. We have hitherto been considering the subject exclusively in its application to the sugar consumers in this country, — solely in a selfish light, and in its relation to the question of cheap or dear sugar to the people of England. But Lord Harris is of opinion, that the lapsing of the fertile island of Trinidad into a state of bar- barism may be regarded as a not improbablo event, if the present system bo persevered in ; and Jolonel lieid feels convinced " that, 164 BRITISH WEST INDIES. Mil ( ■ III without protection, the most serious result would not be the loss of sugar ; but the consummatioir of the greatest act of human legisla- tion — ^the abolition of slavery— will be retarded, and perhaps en- dangered." Analogous passages, from the despatches of other governors, might be quoted j and surely the fact that such men, so situated and so experienced, have deemed it not merely their province, but their duty, to lift up their warning — their almost prophetic voices — to that Government of whom their appointments were held, in the way of caution against a continued perseverance in the Ministerial policy, is in itself one of the strongest facts that go to prove the existence of the danger which is here referred to. Will any man of sense and reason permit himself to doubt that, were the governors who penned these admirable and truth-telling despatches to be now appointed a commission, with power to legis- late for the West Indian colonies in their relationship to the mother country, their very first act would bo to make a very serious inroad upon the principles of that legislation which influenced the Sugar Duties Bills of 1846 and 1848 ? It is impossible to doubt but that such would be the case ? And again, does not this in itself prove the necessity for the immediate adoption of remedial measures ? That a body of enlightened men — chosen because fit to govern in tropical climes — after residing for years in the society and midst the scenes of which they write, have (many of them, in the face of preconceived opinions, which retarded conviction) arrived at the conclusions, 1st. That slave-grown produce will drive free-grown produce out of the market altogether j and 2d. That, if this be the issue, the British colonies will lapse into barbarism — appears to me to be the strongest of all possible reasons for urging the adop- tion of some measures of relief If it be said that the statements of these governors is but testimony — evidence capable of being rebutted by contrary proof; I answer — Be it so. But it is at least testimony omni eocceptione major — the evidence of persons entitled to the very fullest belief — at all events, until an equal amount of unexceptionable testimony has been adduced on the other side of the question. Let it also be observed, that this testimony to West Indian decadence, thus drawn from despatches sent to the Govern- ment, is altogether apart from, und independent of, the testimony of the British West Indian planters themselves — men who have been so often and so undeservedly accused of making a parade of their distress. And why should it bo doubted, either that the non-profitable cultivation of a sugar estate and the unrcmunerativc working of a boiling-house and distillery, should lead to their abandonment? or that the abandonment of tha cultivation should lead to the laps- ing of the colonies into a utate of worse than pristine barbarism ? BRITISH WEST INDIES. 165 )e the loss of iman legisla- l perhaps en- lies of other at such men, merely their -their almost appointments perseverance ;est facts that ) referred to. doubt that, 1 truth-telling Dwer to legis- to the mother serious inroad 3ed the Sugar loubt but that in itself prove ial measures? t to govern in ety and midst in the face of rrived at the ve free-grown if this be the 1 — appears to ing the adop- he statements able of being it it is at least rsons entitled lal amount of I other side of Qony to West :> the Govern- he testimony len who have g a parade of aon-profitable ^working of a ~ landonment ? d to the laps- barbarism ? The first is simply the operation of the law of self-preservation. Tropical agriculture, and sugar and rum-making, are not carried on by the British any more than by the Spanish planter as a luxury, or for his own gratification ; nor are these operations con- ducted save at very heavy annual outlay and expense. People will carry on a losing trade so long as previously made profits and capi- tal last, or as there is hope of the dawn of a brighter state of things. But the ceasing of the profits will sooner or later lead to the exhaustion of the capital; and, there being no " star of hope" seen in the horizon of the future,, it is only in accordance with a principle of self-preservation, that the cultivation and the manu- factuie should be eventually given up. And if the cultivation of the sugar-cane, and the manufacture and distillation of its juice be abandoned, what is there to induce the British colonists to remain in the West Indies ? Does any one imagine that it is from the love of a tropical climate, or of tropical scenery, that the Europeiia conducts his operations under the swel- tering heat of an almost vertical sun ? Does any one think that there is anything like a considerable body of the white population in the West Indies, who would remain in them one hour longer than they can help, if all hope of the profitable cultivation of these colonies were at an end ? If so, such person labours under a griev- ous misconception. There are many charming things to be seen and tasted within the tropics. Tropical nights are very lovely ; tropical trees are ofttimes very graceful ; some tropical dishes and fruits- -turtle-soup and pine-apples in particular — are very deli- cious. But these, and all other tropical luxuries besides, would not suffice to detain our enterprising fellow-countrymen or their fair companions within the torrid zone, were it not that they have hitherto found it to be their interest to be there. The fair lady of British birth, whom love or duty has caused to make the beautiful islands of the Western Archipelago her temporary home ; or her equally fair countrywoman of Creole origin, born of British parent- age but within the tropic line, may give an occasional shudder, and draw her shawl or cloak closer around her form, as she listens to or feels tlie blasts of a northern winter. But I am quite sure that I declare the sentiments of the great mass of the European inha- bitants of the British West Indies, when I say, th.at there is not one of them who would consent to exchange for ever the bracing influences and fond associations of Great Britain, for all the bright- ness of that tropic sun — *' Which scorches those it beams upon." Nay, more, I venture to assert, that the vast majority of the par- 166 BRITISH WEST INDIES. till ties I refer to would not consent to remain in the West Indies one year longer than interest, duty, or necessity required. If there be any one who doubts this, let him introduce the topic on board a West Indian steamer, and among a party expatriating themselves from England, and as the steamer slowly progresses in her souih-west course. And if it be imagined that it is the tender recollections of those ties they are leaving behind them, that so moves the whole party to confess their love for England as a place of permanent residence, let the inquirer observe how the eye flashes, and the cheek kindles, among the family circles in the best of the West Indian mansions, when the conversation turns upon the far- off home on English ground. No ! There is not, there cannot be, a doubt of tue fact. So soon as the West Indian colonies cease to be valuable possessions for the culture of the sugar-cane and the manufacture of its juices into sugar and into rum, from that hour we may date the commencement of their abandonment as places of residence or colonization by Europeans. This may be predicated of all the islands in the Western Archipelago, whether they belong to England, France, Spain, Denmark, Holland, or Sweden. But the observation has a peculiar appositeness and propriety, when considered with reference to the feelings usually, and in the West Indies pre-eminently, entertained by British colonists towards the mother country. It has been remarked as frequently as justly chat, great as England has been and is as a colonizing country, the fact of her being so has not proceeded from any dislike entertained by her emigrant children towards the land of their nativity. No colo- nists in the world carry abroad with them a greater love of home, more intense feelings of patriotism, or a larger amount of the amor patriae, than do the colonists that leave her shores for settlement on a distant strand. To prove this fact, examples might be selected almost from every quarter of the globe. As a general rule, the colonists of Great Britain sympathize in every home feeling. Of England they may truly say that — "Each flash of her genius their pathway enlighten?, Every field she explores they are beckoned to tread; Each laurel she. gathers their i^uturo day brightens ; They rejoice with her living, and mourn with her dead." Of this patriotic feeling of our colonial fellow-subjects, towards the " queen of the islands" whence they have sprung, and with which they are connected, the traveller among the islands of the West Indian archipelago will have abundant and frequent evidence. " Home" is the term universally applied to England by the white inhabitants of the British West Indian possessions. And in a periodical, oft-repeated visit to that " home," is to be found the tht BRITISH WEST INDIES. 1C7 st Indies one ace the topic f expatriating progresses in i is the tender | them, that so ' ind as a place ' he eye flashes, le best of the upon the far- ere cannot be, lonies cease to -cane and the Tom that hour iut as places of be predicated er they belong Sweden. But ropriety, when d in the West 3ts towards the as justly chat, untry, the fact entertained by ivity. No colo- love of home, int of the amor for settlement ght be selected acral rule, the feeling. Of i; lead." bjects, towards ■ung, and with islands of the uent evidence, by the white is. And in a be found the most highly prized of all the British colonist's pleasures of memory and of hope. Impressed with these convictions, I cannot suppose that any per- son acquainted either with West Indian climate, culture, and manu- facture, or versant in the feelings of the white and even the coloured population of the British colonies, will contradict my assertion— that the cessation of cane-cultivation in the British West Indies would eventuate in their total abandonment by their present pro- prietors. The change might be very gradual; most probably it T/oul ". oe 60 : but, if there be any soundness in the premises which have guided me thus far in my reasoning, it would certainly be very sure. And if the period so to be anticipated should ever come, in what state would it leave these at present noble possessions ? and what would then become of all that has been done, at such cost of life and treasure, to ameliorate the condition of the Negro race in the British West Indies ? To what state would the colonics them- selves be reduced ? Would any other nation be disposed to take up what England had thus thrown away ? Suppose England to permit this to be done, what people would be inclined to try so Quixotic an experiment — unless indeed under a return to a system, or a modified system, of slavery ? Is the Negro population of the West Indies yet in a fit state for self-government? With St. Domingo experience ringing in his ears, he would be a bold man who would express much confidence in an afl&rmative answer to this question. And even though such answer could be with confidence given, on what principle is it ex- pected that Negroes, under Negro domination, would work with ad- vantage that soil which British energy had given up in despair ? It were bootless, however, to prosecute the subject further ; it is sufii- cient to point attention to the possibility of such events resulting from a continued perseverance in a certain line of policy. If there be any reasonable amount of truth in the statements which governors, planters, professional residents, and occasional visitors have, for the last four years, been pouring forth, as to the practical eftbcts pro- duced by British legislation on the cultivation of the sugar-cane in England's noble colonial possessions in the West Indies, the possi- bility becomes a probability. The conclusion is so manifest that there seems to be no mode of evadinijr it, save by a denial of the premises on which it is based. Whether there are grounds on which ; such a denial can be supported, is a (juestion that will be answered by each one according to his leanings, or to his vie\vs of the evidence. The views recorded iu this chapter are those formed on personal and - dispassionate observation ; and, midst the distrust incident to pro- mulgating opinions on a (juestion involving great interests, and to the expiscation and settlement of which great — the greatest — talents 1i 168 BRITISH WEST INDIES. have been devoted, it certainly gratifies and encourages the writer not a little to observe that, however ingenious, and however ably advocated, may have been the opinions of an opposite nature, the great majority of those men who have visited the West Indies, and who are practically acquainted with West Indian a%ir8, have ex- pressed opinions of a confirmatory nature — have done so whatever may have been the nature of their business, or the objects of their visit. Buo it may be said that all the preceding argument is based upon an assumption. I admit that it is so. It is acknowledged that, throughout the preceding reasoning — or rather, as the foundation of th'r' easoning — it has been assumed that, in the present state of the h ufour market in the British West Indies, the produce of free labour i\ii>M. compete with that of slave labour, as regards the cost of pro- dn'Jioi' In other words, I have reasoned on the assumption that the oft-^.iu ed and much-abused dictum, that free labour is as cheap as slave labour, has been found to be fallacious when applied to sugar-cultivation within the tropics. It is said that this has been taken for granted — and I would deem it a reprehensible waste of my reader's time to occupy it by proving at length a position so clear as is the one thus assumed. It is demonstrated by the experience of the past — particularly by that of the last four years ; and a very brief summary of facts will show that it is so. The duties at present exigible in Great Britain^ on foreign and colonial sugar, are as follows :— FOREIGN. White clayed siif^ar, or equal thereto, Brown clayed sugar, or equal thereto, Muscovado, or not equal to brown clayed, COLONIAL. White clayed or equal thereto, Muscovado, or not equal to white clayed, 193. lOd. per cwt. 18s. 6d. " 17s. Od. " 143. Od. 129. Od. On a general view of this table, it would seem that, at present, there is a protective duty of nearly 6s. per hundredweight in favour of the produce of British colonies. But in operation it is not so; and that not merely because the greater part of the foreign slave-grown sugar, imported into this country, is generally of relatively higher value than the sugar brought from our own colonies, (so much more valuable that, quantity considered, foreign and colonial sugar may even at present be considered to be on an equality,) but also because there are three scales of duty applicable to foreign sugars, while there are only two that apply to colonial. The groat mass of the foreign sugars brought into England for consumption, is of the kind called " brown clayed, or equal thereto," which at present (in March 1850) pays a duty of 18s. 6J. per cwt.; and, if the foreign sugar impoi foreig sugar^ comes duty ( fairly ed, wl tity partici inferic tinuc, the B applic But sugar been a ferenti 1851, per cw sugar gradua until { colonia then b( What < and wh British and on gathere One the sla^ the sug llico. exclude British product duced V, so low year, tl 142,24( average I the incn I the dcm Now, Icipation BRITISH WEST INDIES. 1G9 OS the writer liowever ahVy e nature, the it Indies, and lirs, have ex- 80 whatever bjects of their is based upon wledged that, foundation of ?nt state of the of free labour he cost of pro- jsumption that )ur is as cheap en applied to this has been lie waste of my tion so clear as > experience of and a very rs n foreign and , per cwt. ; present, there n favour of the )t so; and that ve-grown sugar, higher value so much more nial sugar may ut also because sugars, while it nrass of the , is of the kind sent (iu March n foreign sugar imported docs not come quite up to that standard, it is admitted afl foreign muscovado, &c., at a duty of 17s. per cwt. Now this foreign sugar, admitted at 17s. per cwt. (nearly the whole of it slave-grown) comes into competition with the colonial muscovado, which pays a duty of 12s. per cwt. The diflFerential duty, therefore, cannot be fairly called more than 5s. per cwt. — a difference, quality consider- ed, which practically amounts to no protection at all. A large quan- tity of the British colonial sugar imported into Great Britain, and particularly much of that brought from the West Indies, is of an inferior kind j and, even were the present state of things to con- tinue, it seems obvious that it would be an equitable advantage to the British colonist, were there a third and a lower scale of duty, applicable to a third and an inferior description of colonial sugar. But to return to the general argument — While the duties on the sugar imported into Great Britain are for the present as they have been above-stated, they are in a transition stat< ^o far as it is dif- ferential, the duty will in a short time be equa^iic; On 5th July, 1851, the duty on British plantation sugar v 1 be ..sduced to 10s. per cwt., but, at the same time, the duty c^^ ic "''ign brown clayed sugar will be reduced to 15s. 6d. per cwt. j rA thereafter, by a gradually descending scale, this differential duty will annually lessen until 3d July, 1854, when it will disa^ ?r altogether, and the colonial and foreign sugars (slave-grown as well as free-grown) will then be admitted at the uniform and equal rate of 10s. per cwt. What effect an approximation to this state of things has already had, and what effect its complete realization must necessarily have on British interests, on sugar cultivation in the British West Indies, and on the destinies of the African race, enslaved and free, may be gathered from the following facts : — One of the consequences which resulted from the emancipation of the slaves, in the British West Indian possessions, was, to decrease the sugar production in them, and to increase it in Cuba and Porto Rico. This was the case, even while foreign sugars were virtually excluded from the English market. The fact of the decrease in the British colonies appears from statistics already given. In 1834, the production was above 190,000 tons. Next year the quantity pro- duced was less; and it continued to fall off till 1841, when it was so low as 107,500 tons. Since 1841 it has improved ; and last Syear, the quantity exported from the British West Indies was „ 142,240 tons, exclusive of molasses. But it has never reached the \ average production previous to emancipation, notwithstanding that i the increase of the sugar-consuming population has greatly increased 1 the demand. Now, while such has been one of the consequences of the Eman- cipation Act upon the British West Indian colonies, what has been %| 170 BRITISH WEST INDIES. fi its results in the colonics of Spain — that country whose colonial dependencies, aided by Brazil, produce that slave-grown sugar, which is the great competitor of free-grown produce in the markets of Europe ? Here we are presented with a very different state of mat- ters. Since 1843, Cuba and Porto Rico have more than trebled their productions. In 1828, they exported only 93,000 tons of sugar J in 1847 they exported 305,000 tons. But here let me anticipate an objection to the application of the fact last stated, as aiding the argument in hand. It may be seen, that the great increase in the production of sugar in Cuba and Porto Rico, in 1847, was mainly owing to the impetus given to the cultivation in these islands, by the English Sugar Duties Bill of 1846. No doubt such is the fact ; but, instead of militating against it, the fact assists the present reasoning. It shows that slave labour in the tropics is so much cheaper than free labour, that the former can afford to give the latter great seeming advantages, and yet undersell it ; and, apart from this, it points attention to tho true cause why, since Emancipation, sugar production has fallen off in the British colonial possessions — that cause being the felt deficiency in the means of labour. . . . For be it remembered that it is only in its connexion with the pre- sent condition of the labour market in the British West Indies, that it is said that " free labour cannot compete with slave labour." In- deed, it is here that the essence of the great West Indian question may be said to lie. As an abstract proposition, I do not doubt, or rather I should be sorry to doubt, the equality, nay, the superiority of the labour of freemen over the tasked labour of slaves. But it is the circumstance which makes the case of the British West Indian planter an exceptional case — a casus improvisus in free-trade legisla- tion, that, while a largo portion of the '* power" he had, wherewith to conduct his agricultural and manufacturing operations, has been taken from him, no adequate attempt has been made to redeem the promise that a substitute for it would be provided. Nor can this result surprise any one acquainted, even in a slight degree, with slave labour and free labour within the tropic line. The Emancipation Act of 1843 diminished the production of the British colonies, because it lessened the number of the labourers who tilled the fields and conducted the manufacturing operations. And the same statute, coupled with the Sugar Duties Act of 1846, increased the production of Cuba, Porto Rico, &c., because, while they opened up to the planters in these fertile islands an extensive new market for their produce, they had the means of coercing their existing labourers to extra, and, unfortunately, ofttimes to excessive exertion, and also of getting, from without, such additional workmen as it might be their interest to purchase or employ. Both results were the most natural that could be conceived. Before emancipation, BRITISH WEST INDIES. 171 vhose colonial n sugar, which ho markets of it state of mat- e than trebled 13,000 tons of t here let me last stated, as I great increase , in 1847, was 1 these islands, dt such is the ists the present cs is so much give the latter id, apart from Emancipation, possessions — hour. . . . I with the pre- est Indies, that ! labour." In- adian question not doubt, or be superiority avcs. But it ih West Indian e-trade legisla- lad, wherewith ions, has been to redeem the n in a slight opic line. The i of the British ers who tilled ns. And the 846, increased le they opened e new market their existing ssive exertion, jrorkmen as it b results were emancipation, there was no exuberance of supply in the labour market of the British colonies. The slaves were all profitably engaged. But the gradual consequence of that measure was the withdrawal of a por- tion of the labourers to other pursuits and occupations. The produc- tion, therefore, fell off. But the demand for the article produced continued, and was increasing. Whence, then, was that demand to be thereafter supplied, if not from those differently situated proprie- tors whose means of labour continued, and who had opportunity of adding to them to any extent expedient or necessary ? The duty, amounting to a prohibition, was the only obstacle : that removed, the result was plain — and it as plainly was the one that might have been predicted from the beginning. The argument would be incomplete, were notice not taken of the fact that there is, in the very nature of cane cultivation and sugar- making in the tropics, something which places the agriculturist or manufacturer, who is imperfectly supplied with workpeople, or who has an imperfect control over them, at a peculiar disadvan- tage, when he is called on to compete with such proprietors as can command a sufficient amount of labour at the time it is required. The planting season and crop-time are the two periods of the year in which the farmer and sugar-maker, within the tropics, require special aid. It is literally true that, at these seasons, ho can scarcely have too many labourers. At other times he may com- pensate for the want of labour in one point of his operations, by drawing it from another ; but, during the seasons of planting and of sugar-making, he cannot proceed with too great rapidity. Hence it is that, in Cuba and Porto Ilico, when cane-cutting is once commenced, it and the consequent operations in the boiling- house are carried on without intermission, till the whole crop is secured and manufactured into sugar — the slaves working in re- lays or gangs, each for about six hours at a time. Great advan- tages are thu.s secured as regards quantity and quality of production and economy of working. The canes are cut at the proper time. No time is lost in securing all the juice that can be extracted from them by the mill ; and, the latter being kept continuously going, there is not only a plentiful stream of liquor for the operations of the boiling-house, but (and perhaps this is one of the greatest ad- vantages of getting over " crop-time " as speedily as possible) the conduits are not allowed to run dry, and perchance to " sour," to the injury of the whole maLufacturc, or of a considerable part of it. But, from the cause already assigned — from the diminution in the number of the labourers for the cane-field, or for the mill and boiling-house — such desirable rapidity and continuity of operations is not generally practicable in the British plantations. This po; 1- 172 BRITISH WEST INDIES. ; !:::!! tion could be illustrated by the mention of many very strong in- stances of injury aLd expense, resulting from the operations being delayed through the deficiency of labour or the difiiculty of getting the Negroes to work. I prefer, however, narrating an illustrative incident, which occurred under my own observation : it is a case somewhat in point ; and if it wants the power of being an extreme case, it has at least the claim of being fact, meipso teste. When riding in the island of Antigua with my friend Mr. Mar- tin, he observed that the windmill on one of his estates had sud- denly ceased to revolve. On inquiry at the sugar-works, it was ascertained that the cause of cessation was a deficiency in the sup- ply of canes. Aware that, if his arrangements had been duly carried out, this should not have occurred, Mr. Martin immedi- ately proceeded to the cane-field, at which the reapers, or rather " cutters," were at work. There he learned the nature of the ob- stacle which was interrupting the proceedings at the mill j while I was not a little interested, and somewhat amused, by the discussion which ensued between my friend and the Negro overseer, relative to the subject which had brought us to the field. Like the other proprietors on the island, Mr. Martin had succeeded in getting the wages of the field labourers reduced to about three-fourths of what they had been during the preceding year. But, during crop-time of that preceding year. Sambo had been in use to cut four loads of canes each working-day, and his reasoning now was, that, as his wages had been reduced one-fourth, it was right and fair that his work should diminish in an equal ratio — a position to which he stuck with no little pertinacity, and defended with no little inge- nuity. Intimately acquainted with Negro character, the intelli- gent proprietor of the estate gratified the " Negro love for talk with massa," by arguing with his people on the unreasonableness of supposing that, while " slave competition " compelled him to lower wages one-fourth, the reduction would benefit either him or them, if the work done was lessened to an equal extent ; and his argument, (coupled with promise of additional pay fur extra work beyond the four loads,) produced the desired result, and enabled the operations of the mill and of the boiling-house to be immedi- ately resumed. Apart, therefore, from the question of wages, (which is a very obvious one,) the free cultivator of the British possessions in the West Indian Archipelago labours under a disadvantage in conduct- ing his operations, as compared with the slave cultivator of Cuba, Porto Rico, or Brasil. But not to exhaust the patience of the reader, or to allow this Chapter to extend beyond proper and prescribed limits, I must now hasten to a conclusion, by devoting a few pages to the consi- dera towa prev( bran tions cry strong in- erations being ulty of getting an illustrative n : it is a case ng an extreme teste. iend Mr. Mar- tates had sud- -works, it was icy in the sup- ad been duly artin immedi- )ers, or rather urc of the ob- mill ; while I the discussion jrseer, relative jike the other in getting the )urths of what ring crop-time put four loads IS; that, as his fair that his a to which he tto little inge- ir, the intelli- love for talk easonableness )clled him to either him or tent; and his or extra work and enabled io be immedi- lich is a very ssions in the ;e in conduct- itor of Cuba, to allow this mits, I must to the cousi- BRITISII WEST INDIES. 173 deration of the remedies that ought to be, or that m.ay bo, applied towards the alleviation or the removal of West Indian distress. To prevent misconception, the remarks to be made on this important branch of the subject are prefaced with the two following observa- tions : — In the first place, it were only prejudice to deny that the question is one which is attended with many and serious difficul- ties. Audi alteram partem is a principle of wise legislation, as well as of judicial proceedure ; and, amid the conflicting claims created by the multiplied ramifications of British commerce and British interests, it is no easy matt:r for the legislature to deter- mine what course to pursue for the attainment of the desired end — even after the conclusion has been arrived at, that national faith with the West Indian proprietors has not been kept, that great in- justice has been done them, and that they have been unfairly ex- posed to a ruinous competition, the final issue of which is likely to defeat the very object for which it has been permitted. But though the road which leads to it be intricate and difficult, the end, when arrived at, is satisfactory and clear. Though it be t.ue that here, as in most other cases of wrong and rectification, it has been easier to point to the injury than to the means or mode of cure, there are no parts of the observations recorded in this Chapter on this great national question, of the soundness of which a stronger opinion is entertained by the writer, than those in which, in as few words as possible, he will now record the opinions to which his review of the subject has brought him, regarding the course to be pursued in order most efi'ectually and permanently to cheapen tho price of sugar ; to do justice to the West Indian colonists ; to re- suscitate the British possessions in the Western Archipelago ; and to suppress the slave trade and slavery all over the world. In the second place, while the measures to be suggested, and to some extent advocated, are those which appear most obviously requi- site for the realisation of the objects above stated, and while they ad- mittedly involve the abnegation of the policy which dictated the legis- lation of 184G and 1848, on the question of the sugar duties, it is not asserted either that there are no other measures of eflx3ctual and permanent relief, or that some means of alleviation may not be sug- gested, consistently even with the preservation, in its integrity, of the principles of the existing acts. No pretension is made to the pro- mulgation, and much less to the discovery, of a panacea for West Indian distress. The remedial measures to be suggested are advo- cated simply because, of many, they appear to the writer to be the most practicable, the most intermediate between excromes, and the most consistent with the true interests of the homo consumer as ^v-.'ll as of the colonial producer; and even should tho legislature, i'l :ts wisdom, resolve to adhere to the principle of the existing statutes, 15* 174 BRITISH WEST INDIES. f there are yet, in such measures as an extension of the period of their application, and the introduction of a third and lower scale of duty for the importation of a third and lower description of colonial sugar, and the allowing the use of molasses as well as of sugar in distille- ries and breweries, (to the improvement of spirits and malt liquors, and the cheapening of bread,) means whereby much may be done to ward oflf and procrastinate, if they do not prevent, the fatal issue of those measures which have so prostrated the British West Indian colonies. Moreover, there is not merely a possibility, but even a probability, of some event ere long occurring which may bring sud- denly to a termination — perhaps to a bloody ci^e — the existence of slavery in the colonial dependencies of Spain in the West Indian Archipelago. The conspiracy at Matanzas, (in Cuba,) of 1844, is pregnant with important lessons ; and the chances of repetition of some such tragedy, with the important diflference of an opposite re- sult, will not be lost sight of by the student of British West Indian interests, or indeed by any one desirous of taking, on this really mo- mentous question, a view as removed from despondence or despair on the one side, as from ill-founded expectation or credulity on the other. Introduced and qualified by these preliminary observations, the following are advocated as the measures most practicable, and most likely to be available, for the permanent removal of the distress "which now extends its depressing influences over the British posses- sions in the West Indies. If I have been correct in affirming that there is at present, in these colonies, a retrograde movement, as regards prosperity, culture, and civilisation, then assuredly must I also be right in asserting, that the first and the most obvious measure to arrest the back-going, is an immediate resolution to extend the duration of the difierential duties. But if, on the other hand, there be soundness in the view, that the cause of depression and retrogression is one which is remediable, then as certainly may the period of extension be limited to the time necessary for the efiectual carrying out of those means in the use ot which a sufficient cure is to be found. Combining these principles, the result arrived at is, that an extension of the protective duty for ten years longer would, if accompanied by other measures, suffice, not only to alleviate West Indian distress, but to remove the causes of it. That there was justice in, or necessity for, a diffijrential duty in favour of British colonial sugar, was conceded in 1846, by many even of that body in this country who arrogate to themselves the title of " the Free-trade party ;*' and the statutes now in operation arc in part framed in accordance with that admission. But, if this justice or necessity existed in 1846 or 1848, can it be with truth affi BRITISH WEST INDIES. 175 jeriod of their scale of duty jolonial sugar, ^ar in distille- i I malt liquors, lay be done to ) fatal issue of I West Indian y, but even a lay bring sud- e existence of West Indian ,) of 1844, is r repetition of n opposite re- 1 West Indian this really mo- nce or despair Qdulity on the servations, the ible, and most >f the distress British posses- •esent, in these culture, and ting, that the c-going, is an irential duties. view, that the is remediable, ed to the time in the use ot se principles, ctive duty for isurcs, suffice, 3ve the causes ential duty in ^46, by many lemselves the V in operation Kut, if this be with truth affirmed that it does not exist in 1850 ? Matters certainly have not improved in the British colonies in the W estern seas, within the last four years. On the contrary, and in many respects, they h- ve dete- riorated. They have retrograded with a rapidity which is most ap- palling to those best acquainted with West Indian affairs ; nay, this backgoing now threatens to engulf interests which, in 1846, seemed remote from its operations. Nor can matters improve in the British colonies in the Western Archipelago until. In the next place, the amount of the differential duty between slave-grown and free- grown sugar is increased to about 12s. per cwt. This, no doubt, involves a change both in the amount and on the basis of the protective duty. But a change on both seems expedient, if not essential. As regards amownt, it appears plain that, if there is to be any protective duty at all, it canaot wisely be made less than that which will be sufficient — sufficient to stimulate to an increase in colonial production. Now, the result of all the consideration I have been able to give this subject is, that, looking to matters as they are, a smaller differential duty than 12s. would not secure the wished-for result. Any smaller increase would not suffice for protection to British interests, while it might stimulate to increased exertion on the part of foreigners, to retain the vantage ground they now occupy in the British market. The details which go to the formation of this opinion, are to be found in the preceding remarks on the compara- tive cheapness of slave-grown over free-grown commodities, and the relative superiority in value of slave-produced over free-produced sugars : a repetition of these is unnecessary. Aware of the objoc- tions to changing the principle of the differential duty, and altering it as now proposed, the above-stated position is maintained in a full knowledge of the argument, that such change would tend to encou- rage smuggling ; and it is so mainly on the ground that the mainten- ance of a clear distinction, between slave and free produce, is the most powerful weapon philanthropy can wield j and that the risk of occasional, or even of frequent cases of evasion, does not furnish a sufficient reason for departing from that grand line of beneficent policy on which Great Britain first adventured, when in 1807 she passed the world-renowned act of abolition — that statute which struck the first blow for liberating the slave from his fetters, and in further- ance of which our noble c( untry has since made such lavish expendi- ture of treasure and blood. If the grounds upon which an increase of the differential duty is advocated, do not suthciently appear from what has been already written, as to the deficiency of the means of labour in the British West Indies, the consequent comparative cheapness of slave over free labour cultivation, the reasons why these causes are more operative in the tropics than they would be in more northern climes, and the 176 BRITISH WEST INDIES. admissions of the slaveholders themselves as to the nature and extent of the advantages they enjoy, — repetition here would not avail to make them more apparent or convincing. The amount stated is required, and it seems the lowest that would suffice ; while it would not, or at least would not necessarily, (for, in all matters involving a change in the rate of a duty, while necessary results may be calcu- lated, actual ones are beyond our reach,) involve an increase in the price of sugar to the consumer greater than would be caused by a very moderate enhancement of the present price. When it is kept in view that the object of submitting to some such temporary advance is the maintenance of national faith, and the alleviation of West Indian distress, and the preservation of these colonies — not only as colonies, but as sugar-supplying countries — it will surely hot be thought by any one that the object in view is unworthy of the sacri- fice, if a sacrifice it can be called. I have said temporary advance, for it is not contemplated that such diflferential duty should be per- manent : on the principles already at some length adverted to, it is unnecessary that li should be so. If to the meabji'es above indicated there were added a vigorous, well-directed effort to promote immigration of free labourers from the shores of Africa, such immigration would redeem something like a national obligation ; and under its ameliorating influences, the British West Indian possessions would, ere the expiry of the pro- posed protective period, be in a situation to compete with any sugar- producing country in the world. This would be the case even were the abolition of slavery, in the territories of Spain and of Brazil, indefinitely protracted or hopelessly postponed. Let the person who questions the accuracy of this opinion, inquire why it is that tho island of Burbudoes is in so diftercnt a position from that of her sister colonies— why it is that Colonel lieid, in his graphic, truth- telling description, makes special exception of " Little England," when writing of the Windward group 'i It is not said that free labour in the tropics is as cheap as slave labour, in all respects, or as regards every particular ; but it is said that the difference is not so great as to place the slave-owner on an unapproachable vantage ground — pioviucd always the supply of the one kind be as plentiful us that of the uther : and in evidence of this Barbadoes is referred tO; in exclusion of further argument. The (|uostion of African immigration — the modvu. operandi — tho appliances for conducting it — or the national guarantees which ought to form the basis of it — involve questions too important and too extensive to be here discuL;sed. Much has lately been written upon them J and it is not supposed that it will now be disputed, by any one who has given attention to tho subject, that, while Africa is the field to which the West Indians naturally look for a supply of BRITISH WEST INDIES. 177 •e and extent not avail io ant stated is hile it would ers involving lay be calcu- crease in the caused by a len it is kept )rary advance tion of West -not only as iurely hot bo ■f of the sacri- rary advance, ould be per- irted to, it is id a vigorous, bourei's from Diuething like nfluences, the jT of the pro- ith any sugar- ise even were id of Brazil, e person who is that the that of her •aphic, truth- England," id that free cspccts, or as ince is not so able vantage e as plentiful es is referred oerandi — the i which ought Itant and too Iwritten upon luted, by any lAfrica is the a supply of labourers, a system of free immifjration from that vast continent to the British colonies in the Wcsscern Archipelago — conducted under the guarantee of Britain's good faith — would confer a great boon, as well on the Africans so conveyed from the one land to the other, as on the tropical agriculturist who might afterwards employ them. But while my space compels me to omit the evidence * which relates to the practicability, philanthropy, and efl&ciency of emigra- tion from Africa, as a means of cure for the evils affecting the labour market in the British West Indies, I can, as the result of personal observation, vouch for the cordiality of the reception which such emigrants would receive, were they provided with the means of so transporting themselves. Being in one of the Leeward Islands in 1849, when a vessel arrived having a number of African labourers on board, an opportunity was offered me of observing both the anxiety of the planters to secure their services, and the attention given to the promotion of their health and comfort. These people very speedily adapted themselves to the peaceful occupations of their new homes, in a congenial clime. Many months afterwards I was rejoiced to learn, from one of the most influential planters in the island, that these emigrant labourers were amongst the best workpeople which the colony at the time contained. But whence, it may be asked, are the pecuniary means for this emigration to come ? The financial is always the most difl&cult part of every practical question. But while it is very difficult, that very fact makes it very important ; the preceding ^/bservations, therefore, would be defective, were they not fittingly terminated by some remurks on the monetary branch of the present inquiry. There are two sources whence the national part of the expense of African emigration might be provided : these are — the sums now annually expended on the slave squadron, and the balance of the compensation money. Some, even among those who have considered the question, and who may otherwise be favourably disposed to the adoption of the writer's views, will hesitate to acknowledge any acquiescence in this opinion; but it is conceived that a few sen- tences will suffice to prove both its justice and its expediency. The squadron for the prevention of the slave trade, while it is the last remaining, so it is the most emphatic of Great Britain's numer- ous manifestations of her detestation of slavery. It may then be naturally enough asked how, and with what consistency, a writer who advocates a return to measures that tend to repress slave pro- duction, can advocate the abandonment of one to which such an observation applies. Now I apprehend that a sufficient answer to * The reader will find a Judicious exposition of the evidence on this subject in a pamphlet entitled KJj'ccis'of an Alteration in the Sui^nr Duties, cj-c, by my friend Mr. M'Grogor Laird. Loudon : IHi. Llfingham Wilson. 178 BRITISH WEST INDIES. .^. if this argument is to be found in discriminating between measures effectual and measures ineffectual ; and between the slave squadron as an auxiliary measure — whi'^ British legislation was otherwise consistent with its existence — and that squadron as a preventive check, standing by itself, when the scope and policy of English legislation on the sugar question has been entirely changed. So long as England discountenanced production by means of slaves, there was consistency in attempting to prevent other countries get- ting slaves wherewith to cultivate their lands. But consistency and entireness of policy was lost, when the statute of 1846 passed into a law. Thereafter we have been holding out a bonus on slav3 pro- duction, while, by the preventive squadron, we have been trying to counteract the effect of the temptation. To illustrate the argument by a parallel case, there was a time when British legislation pre- vented the emigration of the artisan ; and tltf i, consistently enough, it also prohibited the exportation of certain kinds of machinery which the artisan made. The first branch of this consistent system of unwise law was first abrogated, and ii* a brief space it became evident, that the sooner the second branch o^' it was wiped out of the statute book tije better. So it is with f.be laws relative to slaves and slave produce. As long as wf disoouniv; svaced and refused the latter, so long could we consistently, and witii Lope of success, inter- fere by treaty and preventive squadrons, t3 put a stop to the former; but when the bill of 1840 became a h^^ the consistency of the national policy departed with the svstem a oh it displaced. Again, the argument for or ag< v s^. ihi iLiintcaance of the slave squadron on the African cooso, hangs entirely on the question of efficiency or non-efficiency. An inefficient checl. only aggravates the evil it is in.tr'Tuicu to prevent; and in the case of the slave trade, the agf^'-'^.vation hocona- doubly deplorabl; from the excessive sacri- fice of human iifa v, hioii is one of its ofifects. Before the slave trade was declared to be piracy — when it was a legal thing for the white savage to rob and sell his fellow-men — the mortality of the "middk passage " was greatly less than it has been since that event. At all times the slave trade has been productive of an appalling waste of human life. Anterior to the attempt to suppress it by treaty and by squadron, the mortality was from 10 to 15 per cent of the numbers shipped; it has since risen to 33 per cent — the harrowing increase being caused by the crowding of the miserable cargo on board vessels built small, low, and narrow, and with little regard to anything save their sailing powers. Tlie fact that it has been pro- ductive of this consequence, is in itself sufficient to prove the insuf- ficicDcy of the "blockading chuck." But its insufficiency is a matter of notoriety, and even now it i;^ being brought prominently before the attention of tiie British public and legislature, in the petitions lega'it BRITISH WEST INDIES. 179 een measures lave squadron was otherwise a preventive ;y of English changed. So ans of slaves, countries get- Dnsistency and i6 passed into on slav3 pro- oeen trying to the argument 3gislation pre- tently enough, of machinery isistent system »ace it became I wiped out of lative to slaves Qd refused the ' success, inter- to the former; istency of the ilaced. ;e of the slave le question of ily aggravates he slave trade, ixcessive sacri- ,he slave trade for the white • the " middle at event. At ppalling waste it by treaty er cent of the he harrowing able cargo on ittle regard to has been pro- ove the insuf- icy i8 a matter inently before the petitions I. presented to Parliament by Jamaica, St. Kitt's, and others of oup West Indian Oolonies. But is it possible to make this check an efficacious one ? There are many who maintain that it is not, and, in a word, I confess myself a reluctant convert to that opinion. Looking to the fact that a blockade of the African coast, to be effec- tual for the suppression of the slave trade, must extend for a length of 6000 miles and more, it does seem to be visionary to expect the suppression of the traffic in human flesh simply by the presence, on the African coast, of a naval armament — and that particularly now, when, by our own great demand for slave-produced sugar, molasses, and rum, we are presenting a continuously operative inducement to encounter the hazard of the middle passage, and run the gauntlet through our ships of war. No doubt something — nay much — might be done by giving to the courts of mixed commission greater authority and more extended power; but it seems the teaching of a dear-bought experience that, with all appl'smces, we need no*; hope that, by slave treaties and slave squadrons alone, we will ever suc- ceed in effectually putting an end to the multiplied horrors of tuat greatest production of " Man's inhumanity to man," the accursed slave trade. Such are some of the grounds upon which the withdrawal of the slave squadron, and the appropriation for a few years of its pnnual costs to the promotion of free immigration into the Briiiih VVest Indian colonies from the continent of Africa, is placed promiu.ntly among the measures for the removal of West Indian depression; and distress. Be it remembered, that the withdrawal of this J ifchocto notoriously inefficient preventive measure, is only advocated hi con- nexion with the ro-establishment of a less costly, but infinitely more effectual one; and were the squadron remo >d, there could not surely be a wiser or a more appropriate api ition of the moueyj^ thereby saved, than to the adoption of a nn ire which will retain our own sugar-producing colonies, and eveni uaily tend to that state of things under which it can alone be trub aid, "that fret-labour is as cheap as slave-labour." So soon as that issue is arrived afc, then, and not till then, (unless some unfo soen contingency occur,) will the time arrive when cultivation b^ means of slaves will be abandoned as an unnecessary, because a profitless, violation of the rights of man. But, apart from the above-stated method of providing the mcana for enabling the British colonists successfully to compete with the subjects or colonists of those countries whore slave cultivation is legalised and encouraged, there is the other ourcc of provision — viz., the balance of the compensation mone^. In a former part of 180 CUBA TO MOBILE. this chapter the fact was referred to, that, of the £20,000,000 promised, only £18,669,401 10s. 7d. has been yet paid. The remaining £1,330,598 9s. 5d. yet stands as an unexpended balance. There are difficulties in the way of appropriating this sum, or any part of it, to a purpose dilFerent from — though collateral to — that for which it was originally designed, but there are no such diffi- culties as cannot be overcome by a British statute. Having now detained my reader longer on this subject than I originally either desired or intended, I now take leave of it, with the concluding observation, that if the results, which time only can develop, should go to falsify any or all of the preceding observa- tions, in so far as they are prophetic of evil to the British colonial possessions in the West Indian Archipelago, no one will more heartily rejoice in that issue than will the writer, who has commit- ted such prognostications to the press. A sense of expediency, as well as of justice, has been his guide in making his remarks; and if they do not appear to others so conclusive as they seem to him- self, he can only say, in language before used, by other and abler writers, " What is writ is writ, would it were worthier." CHAPTER IX. •'Hail Columbia!" ' " United States, your banner waves, Two emblems — one of fame." Campbeh. Tne. sail from Cuba down the Gulf of Mexico to Mobile Point, on the great continent of North America, a distance of about five hun- dred and fifty miles, is performed by the steam-ships in somewhere under two days and a half; and when the weather is fine, as it gene- rally is, a more agreeable sea-voyage is almost nowhere to be found. At the time when I performed it, in the 11. M. steam-ship Severn, the English steamers did not proceed further than Mobile Point, whence to the town of Mobile, a distance of some twenty miles, the passengers were conveyed by a small river steamer. At the period referred to, the arrangements of the British West Indian Steam Packet Company, in some of their operations, were in their infancy — the former place of the steamer's call having been New Orleans. But if matters continued as they thou were, (in 1849,) there is much reason, ;js well as room, for improvement. It is certainly not very comf »rtablu for any traveller, and particularly for ladies and invalids, to ha roufcjed from sleep at midnight, and called on to disembark. APPROACW Tfi AMRRICA. 181 £20,000,000 paid. The (led balance, sum, or any jral to — that 10 such diffi- bject than I e of it, with ime only can ling observa- itish colonial ae will more has comniit- tpediency, as emarks; and seem to him- ler and abler )ile Point, on )out five hun- In somewhere ^e, as it gcnc- to be found. [ship Severn, [obile Point, [ty miles, the A the period idian Steam [heir infancy [cw Orleans. Ihcre is much ply not very lud invaiidn, disembark, during a rough night, from the large steam-ship into the small, miserable little screw-propelled steara-boat, into which we were tran- shipped at the mouth of the Mobile river. The charge, too — three dollars a-head for conveying the passengers from Mobile Point to the town of Mobile in the river steam-boat — seems excessive, particularly to those accustomed to the very moderate fares exacted in the steam- ers, or rather steam-ships, of the United States. It was, therefore, not without reason that there was much grumbling at such arrange- ments on the part of my fellow-passengers and myself. Observing that the cabin-lights remained unqueuched beyond the usual hour for " turning in," and also some other prognostications of a coming change, I had a presentiment that we might be called upon to leave the ship (which would then steam onward across the Gulf of Mexico) ere morning dawned. Therefore my preparations were made for such contingency, and with some Spanish fellow-passengers I was " sitting up," waiting the course of events. Several of my com- patriots had, howe /er, made up their minds to remaining on board the steaiii-ship till daybreak at least, and, animated by such vain ex- pectations, had, so soon as the ship passed into smooth water under the " lee of the land," made themselves comfortable for the night in their circumscribed " state rooms." These voyagers were, as might have been supposed, the chief male utents. But the disaffection was general. It was an ill-arranged affair ; and, if the system be not yet amended, it certainly requires very much to be so. The matter might very easily be more comfortably and more economically arranged. There are numerous excellent steamers sailing between Mobile and New Orleans at very moderate fares ; and, by an arrange- ment with the owner or master of one or other of the steamers, or with some other of the Mobile steam-boat proprietors, the English company might very easily secure much greater comfort, at a much more moderate rate, for the numerous voyagers of all countries who patronise their steam-ships, and who, in this age of coiiipotition, can only be expected to continue so to do, if due attention be paid to their convenience and comfort. The approach to that part of the coast of North America where Mobile river debouches, presents no features of attraction ; low, flat, and dreary are its prevailing characteristics. It must also be of very dangerous navigation, and, even as we approached, we saw a lar«Te ship of about 700 tons burthen lying stranded on a sand-bank, and with the sea breaking over her at each return of the wave. She had gone on shore some weeks before, laden with a cargo of salt, and efforts were then making to get her off. The name " Mobile Uiver " is of a nomenclature which is calcu- lated to mislead. Properly speaking, it is the estuary of the Ala- bama, or at least it is formed by tlu> conHuence of that noble stream 182 TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. with the river Tombeckbee. Of the scenery between the bay and the town I can say nothing, (save that report makes little mention of it,) seeing that the four hours spent on it were passed on the small, slow, screw-propelled steam-boat in the darkness of night. In the town of Mobile there is not much to detain the traveller who has no other objects save pleasure and health in view. Al- though now a town of some standing, containing about 14,000 in- habitants, it is only of late years that Mobile has sprung into im- portance. It is a thriving, bustling, and improving place, and carries on a large trade, chiefly in cotton, with many parts of the world, and especially with Great Britain. As a port for the shipment of cotton, it is now second only to New Orleans. From Mobile to New Orleans the sail is by steamers, and along the coast, inside of certain sandy islets, Avhich stretch along the low flat shore for nearly the whole way to the entrance to Lake Pont- chartrain. The distance is about a hundred and seventy miles; and the steamer I journeyed in, rejoiced in the once controversial name of the Oregon. She was a large, excellent, well-appointed boat; and for the moderate cabin fare of five dollars, the voyage is made in her in great comfort. Indeed, I may here, once for all, say, that throughout my journeyings in the United States of America, I found that all I had read or heard regarding the comparative discomfort of American steamers from the jostling of fellow-passengers and intru- siveness of strangers, was either altogether untrue or grossly exag- gerated. There is no doubt that there are in the United States, as there are everywhere else, varieties in the travellers you arc destined to meet with, as well as in the comforts and accommodations of the steam-boats you are induced or compelled to travel in. But he or she to whom such variety is a source of discomfort^ or to whom it is not a source of amusement and of interest, had better not travel at all, being altogether unfitted for doing so. Nor need it be concealed that in America, and particularly in the Western States, where society is in a state of rapid advancement and transition, the travel- ler is more apt to meet with persons of intrusive and oft'eusive man- ners, than when travelling in the older countries of Europe, or at least in England. But cases of offensiveness are the exceptions, and the rare ones. And it is not even always, when the traveller in America meets with a person peculiarly intrusive, that he can justly consider the intrusion as impertinence. Ofttimcs did I find, on a little cross-questioning of die interrogator, who displayed at any time an unusual desire to make himself acquainted with my past life, present objects, and future prospects, that there was no idea in his mind that the detail could be anything save grateful to my feelings; and not unfrequently did I discover that the person whose obtrusive- ness, when on the river or the road, was most marked, if not most TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. 183 the bay and ttle mention sscd on the of night, the traveller , view. Al- b 14,000 in- ing into im- 3, and carries e world, and ?nt of cotton, rs, and along long the low Lake Pont- y miles; and krersial name ointed boat; rage is made all, say, that jrica, I found iiscomfort of irs and intru- grossly exag- id States, as arc destined itious of the But he or whom it is lot travel at be concealed tatcs, where 1, the travcl- ensive mau- urope, or at leptions, and traveller in e can justly find, on a at any time »y past life, idea in his uy feelings; obtrusive- f not most offensive, displyed most anxiety to be useful in focilitating my arrangements at the termination of the voyage or journey. Besides, it should bo remembered that the United States of America are peculiarly a " land of travel," where that party which may there at least be denominated par excellence "the people" move much about, from one part of the country to another ; so that to give the conduct or conversation of such persons as fair specimens of the con- duct and conversation of the more refined circles of Transatlantic society, were to commit an injustice which, however often it has been committed, is most flagrant and unpardonable. I have thought it just to record these remarks, as the result of my personal observation while travelling in America, because of the fre- quency with which, even still, and of late years, one sees attempts made to prove that an offensive familiarity and obstrusiveness are very general characteristics among our American brethren. At the same time I never had the desire, and I certainly have not the intention, to be an indiscriminate panegyrist of the land of " stars and stripes." True to my motto, I will " nothing extenuate," even while I sit down " naught in malice." It is therefore that I add that, at least when travelling in the "Western States of the American Union, the European traveller must expect to hear and to see many things which, there can be no doubt, contrast unfavourably with Eu- ropean, and particularly with English habits and customs ; and which even the educated and intelligent among Americans will themselves admit may be much amended. Only to mention a few of such par- ticulars in evidence of the general truth of this remark : — the habit, I had almost said vice, of boasting, so common in the States, where it is not simply amusing, is certainly offensive. When one finds it deforming the character of a person, otherwise agreeable and intelli- gent, its exhibition is not a little provoking ; but, generally, it is ex- hibited to an offensive extent only by the comparatively ignorant and illiterate, and is based on an almost entire unacquaintance with the advances made in science and art throughout Europe during the last twenty years. Confining their attention, in a great measure, to the transactions of their own continent, many of the persons one meets with in public conveyances in the United States, know little or nothing of P^uropean affairs; or only know of them vaguely, and through the medium of the inferior part of their public press, which, echoing and reflecting the prejudices of " the people," caters for their appetite for praise, by giving only such versions of what passes in Europe as will afford that comparison with things in the llepublio which is most flattering to themselves. Thus it happens that, while all Americans see, as they cannot fail to do, the rapid advances in every department of art and scienee, made in their own country, they are apt to think that such advances are confined to their Union; that, 184 TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. while they have been progressing, Europe generally, and especially England, has been standing still. Of course, it is not worth while to stop to point out the greatness of such a mistake, or the errors in reasoning into which it will necessarily lead. My object is not to laud my native land, but to give a fair exposition of my experience when travelling in the United States of America. But it is only a duty, and a compliance with the principle set out wit' ., to add, that in many, indeed in most of the cases in which I hean ridiculous, ignorant boasting relative to American aflFairs or American resources, or ofiensive remarks and allusions to other countries, and to Great Britain in particular, I found, on inquiry, that the ignorant utterer was not a native-born American, but — I confess it with shame — a native of the land to which his obnoxious remarks were intended to refer. I find it recorded among my ex- periences, when sailing up the Mississippi, that the Englishmen or Irishmen who have left their own country in comparatively early life, and probably from disappointed hopes, and have been located in the United States for some fifteen or twenty years, are, of all classes, the most ofiensive which one meets when travelling the ordinary routes of travel in the United States of America. Al- though, perchance, and not unfrequently, these persons are of those " Who leave their country for their country's good," the idea seems to possess them that the fact of they themselves having been compelled, by want of industry or of success, to leave their native land, gives them a title to abuse her and her institu- tions. The abuse of such parties, however, is of little consequence, if they would not, at the same time, grossly misrepresent and mis- state. But it is not easy for one who feels that the simple know- ledge of the truth would go far to promote international goodwill, and who witnesses the efforts of the great and good, both in Eng- land and America, to foster a right understanding between these two great branches of the Anglo-Saxon family, to hear, without indignation, the cool misstatements regarding matters in Great Britain, palmed by such Anglo or Irish Americans upon the cre- dulity of the native-born Americans to whom they may address themselves. Most natural is it for an American to judge of the land of his forefathers, and of its institutions and customs, from the report and statement of the person in his own rank in life, and whom he personally knows to have been born in it. Nothing can he know of the fact, that the person who thus professes to enlighten him, left his native land in utter ignorance of the nature of its institutions, and without having ever visited the chief seats of lite- rature, of elegance, or of commerce, which that glorious laud con- TRAVELLING IN Af .-miCA. 185 [id especially worth while the errors in ict is not to y experience principle set ises in which jrican aifairs ions to other , on inquiry, •ican, but — I lis obnoxious Qong my ex- nglishmen or -atively early been located 'S, are, of all ravelling the merica. Al- lisons are of ly themselves cess, to leave her institu- consequence, lent and mis- jimple know- lal goodwill, oth in Eng- tween these lear, without rs in Great on the cre- iiay address udge of the stoms, from in life, and othing can to enlighten ature of its beats of lite- ms laud con- tains : and only can he guess how far, since leaving it in early life, such informant has had the means of knowing anything regarding its progress in education, in art, or in general improvement. He takes the coolest and most flagrant assertions for gospel truths, and flatters himself with the conviction that he has his information on the best authority — on the authority of a native-born subject of the land of which he has spoken. And most natural is it that the American should do so. The extent and magnitude of this evil, and the extent to which it operates in the way of preventing that clearer knowledge of each other, which is desired by all those who understand the true inte- rests of the two nations, and have the wellbeing of both warmly at heart, must be seen and felt to be fully appreciated. It extends even into higli places. Even some of those who know better, find it their interest to keep up the delusion ; and it is surely lament- able to sec a newspaper, conducted by a Scotchman, made con- stantly Jind systeaiatically the vehicle of circulating through the United States of America the grossest and most puerile, as well as palpable slanders and misstatements, regarding Great Britain, and the feelings of its inhabitants towards their American brethren. Yet so it is ; and the evil descends to the very lowest rank, and exhibits itself even in the most trivial matters, of which, among many instances that happened under my own observation, I may, for the sake of illustrating my reasoning, mention one which occurred when sailing up the Mississippi in the steam-ship Peytona. A person who was very fond of obtruding his extremely democratic opinions, of making impertinent allusions to English politics, and of making himself otherwise offensive, and whom I found, on a little delicate inquiry, to be a native of Ireland, resident for the last twenty years in the United States of America, and whom suc- cess in trade had elevated to a social position — to adorn which he had not received any adequate education — was asked by a genuine Yankee whether any of " these fixings" — pointing to a dish of miserably cooked artichokes — were grown in the " old country." The cool but unhesitating response was — "No; they have none of these things;" and this valuable piece of statistical information, designed, no doubt, as an illustration of the inferiority of British climate and soil, was of course recorded in the memories of the surrounding Americans (whom education did not prevent from believing it) as something received on the very best authority. The above observations are the result of no afterthought. They were recorded in my Journal at the time I witnessed the scenes that originated them, and it was not till long after this record had been made, that ray attention was directed to the corroborative observation of Mr. Charles Dickens, who remarks, in his Notes on America, that 10* t>. t>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 A y" < :? ^^l.C/ ^;.v 'V * Photographic Sciences Corporation '^>^ 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTIR.N.Y UStC (716)172-4503 186 TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. '* In the coarse of this day's journey we encountered some English- men (small farmers, perhaps, or country publicans at home) who were settled in America. Of all grades and kinds of men that jostle one in the public conveyances of the States, these are often the most intolerable and the mort insuflferable companions. United to every disagreeable characteristic that the worst kind of American travellers possess, these countrymen of ours display an amount of insolent con- ceit, and cool assumption of superiority, quite monstrous to behold. In the coarse familiarity of their approach, and the effrontery of their inquisitiveness, (which they are in great haste to assert, as if they panted to revenge themselves upon the decent old restraints of home,) they surpass any native specimens that came within my range of observation ; and I often grew so patriotic when I saw and heard them, that I would cheerfully have iiubmitted to a reasonable fine, if I could have given any other country in the whole world the honour of claiming them for its children." Other sources of annoyance to the European traveller, on the western rivers of the United States, and in which the Americans have yet much to amend, are to be found in the personal habits and practices of tha general run of travellers with whom yon necessarily come into some measure of contact, when travelling in the public conveyances. In particular, chewing, and its concomitant spitting, are all but univei 'al ; and of this universality the indices are gene- rally to be seen on the decks of the steam-packet when sailing up the mighty Mississippi. Washed and thoroughly cleaned every morning, ere evening they were reduced to a state in every way abominable, and anj'thing but appetising. The habit of chewing I had long known to be much more general in the United States than in any country in Europe, but, till I saw the extent to which it was indulged in the Western States of America, I had no adequate idea of the magnitude of the evil. There is another evil practice which I may be permitted to characterise under the mild name of habit, which is unfortunately but too often heard on board the Mississippi steamers —I mean the habit of profane swearing. The monstrous Mississippi being as it were the great highway from the souih to the north, and its scarcely less noble tributaries the Missouri, Ohio, Arkansas, Ked River, &c., being as it were "branch lines" which intersect the vast valley to the right and to the left, there is a constant flow of travel- lers of every kind, grade, and sort, travelling along ; while the com- parative thinness of the population (there being not more than between eight and nine millions in the whole vast region known as the valley of the Mississippi — a region capable of supporting* in wealth and comfort not less than at least ten times that number) renders the restraints of law and of order somewhat difficult to be enforced. These two causes combine to make the routes of travel by the Missis- TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. 187 ome English- t home) who en that jostle ften the most ited to every can travellers : insolent con- lus to behold. )ntery of their frt, as if they ints of home,) my range of aw and beard Bonable fine, if •Id the honour iveller, on the the Americans nal habits and rot necessarily in the public litant spitting, iices are gene- sailing up the jvery morning, y abominable, ig I had long s than in any t was indulged ;e idea of the 5 which I may tabit, which is sippi steamers lus Mississippi he north, and Arkansas, Red rsecfc the vast low of travel- ?hile the com- than between I as the valley n wealth and •) renders the be enforced, by the Missis- sippi the resort of gangs of gamblers, who travel up and down in the steamers, playing, or professing to play among themselves, but con- stantly on the lookout for the unwary, and ready to combine to " pluck the pigeon," when such falls into their trap. I was happy to be informed that, of late years, the audacity of such persons, as well as their numbers, have greatly decreased. Formerly they were peculiarly insolent and overbearing, confidently trusting in their numbers. But the rapid progress of the Western States in popula- tion and civilization has tended greatly to their discountenance ; and it is to be hoped that travellers in these regions will, in a few years, not have a plentiful supply of blacklegs and gamblers to note as among the characteristics of the route. Were it only among such persons that the profanity of language I have thought it necessary to allude to exhibited itself, such a thing were only what was to be expected. 'Twere unreasonable to expect to " gather grapes of thistles j" and, accordingly, that a cheat and gambler by profession should be a profane swearer, is only what might be predicated. But the habit is more general than that. Many persons, whom I found on inquiry to be persons otherwise intelligent, and moving in respect- able positions in life, were in the habit of interlarding their con- versation with oaths of the most awful description. Than this vice I know not one of a meaner character. Apart from the religious view of the question—which it is surely unnecessary to argue here — it is positively the most contemptible of all vices, the vice of lying perhaps only excepted. The best that can be said in defence of it is, that it is meaningless, inasmuch as the utterer does not really intend what he says ; and what can possibly exhibit the practice in a more degrading light than the fact, that such is the only kind of defence that one ever hears attempted in extenuation of an oath ? When oflfering these records of my personal reminiscences of wanderings in the Southern and Western States of the American Union, it is right to add that the remarks apply to society as it exhibited itself to myself in its outward phase. The slight oppor- tunities I had of judging of the state of society in the domestic * circles would have led me to a different conclusion, and fully pre- pared me for crediting the statements of sundry friends in the Southern States, that, were my stay sufficiently protracted in one place, to enable me to see much of the domestic life of the resi- dent merchants and proprietors, I would be compelled to form a much more favourable opinion than I could form from the habits of the more migratory portion of the community whom I would find in the steamers of the mighty but muddy Mississippi, and of her almost equally great, but generally more limpid, tributaries. Mais revenons a nos moutons. To return to the sail from Mobile to New Orleans. The route I went in the Oregon was to Lake 188 MOBILE TO NEW ORLEANS. U -lain r-tii '■''M Pont-chartrain, (so named during the French proprietorship of Louisiana in honour of a French duke of the name) — and thence by a short line of rail to New Orleans. There is another and a longer loute by the Mississippi; but the one by the lake is, I be- lieve, generally pursued by travellers. The fare in the cabin was five dollars ; and as this was the first of my experiences in travel- ling in an American steamer, I may here record something of the impressions the monster has left upon my mind. It is difl&cult to give a graphic conception of such a nondescript as an American river steamer, without the aid of the draughts- But a sufficiently clear idea of the particulars which distin- man. guish these steam arks of America, from what is understood by the term steamboat in Great Britain, will be obtained by imagining a huge barge, gabert, or hoy, covered all over. On this, which con- stitutes a first deck, are placed the engines, fuel, and cargo. On the top of this, and supported by pillars, is the main or cabin deck, generally with a covered promenade all round, save where an in- terruption is caused by the paddle-boxes. On the top of this is another, or upper deck, part of which is often occupied by small sleeping cabins, and above all stands a house for the pilot. This house is in the front part of the boat, the wheel being connected with the rudder by chains working the whole length of the deck. These steamers vary somewhat in construction, as they do in size and in elegance ; and some of them have even an additional deck or "flat," to those abovementioned. All have a ladies' cabin, generally a very elegant aiFair, and to which only ladies, or gentle- men travelling with ladies, have access ; baggage-rooms — an office where the " clerk of the boat" takes fares and issues tickets ; and a large, long, general cabin, in which the meals are taken, the sides being either occupied by shelves as berths or beds, or small state- rooms entering from the cabin. However much they vary, they have all a general resemblance; and the above brief description will enable the reader to conceive that they must have (the steam and funnels only excepted) a very Noah's-ark sort of appearance. I have certainly heard persons, both Americans and others, say, that they consider these vessels picturesque-looking, it not grace- ful. But, with every desire to see wherein the grace lay, I never could discover it. Gay they certainly are — ofttimes as gay as paint and gilding could make them. Nay, some of them — indeed I may say nearly the whole of the passenger-ships — are very hand- somely fitted up, as well as very commodious ; and the wonder only is, that, at such fares, there should be so much elegance, and so many of the appliances of comfort. But there is no grace or beauty in the general outward appearance of the vessel herself, as she sails; like a huge bellowing monster, upon the water. And, MOBILE TO NEW ORLEANS. 189 •ietorship of —and thence Lother and a ake is, I be- lie cabin was les in travel- thing of the I nondescript lie draughts- which distin- rstood by the imagining a 3, which con- cargo. On r cabin deck, where an in- op of this is )ied by small pilot. This ng connected of the deck, ey do in size ditional deck adies' cabin, es, or gentle- ns — an ofl&co tickets; and cen, the sides small state- j vary, they description e (the steam appearance, others, say, it not grace- lay, I never as gay as lem — indeed e very hand- the wonder egance, and no grace or il herself, as ater. And, to my mind, the eye that would compare one of them to a well modeled ocean steamship, must be signally wanting in a percep- tion of the lines of beauty. None of them have proper masts or sails — at least I never saw a river steamer in America under sail — and nearly all of them have two engines and two boilers, with separate funnels standing in a line across the vessel, and far for- ward toward her bows. But, unsightly as some may think these river steamships of America, no one can doubt their utility. Like most things our transatlantic friends have invented for themselves, they are wonderfully well adapted for the purposes for which they are designed. Being intended for river sailing, and to convey large quantities of produce, and great numbers of people by inland navigation and along great arteries of rivers, in which there is little or nothing of what is technically called " sea'^ to be encoun- tered, Jonathan very soon saw, that to prepare his vessels in the old way, so as to require a lifting up and lowering down of the cargo as it was put on board, and again a lifting up from the hold and letting down on the quay, or into the lighter, of the same cargo as it was to be unladen, was a mere waste of time and of labour. Accordingly, he so constructed his steamships to trade in his magnificent and glorious rivers. The cargo, whether it consist of live-stock or of general bales of merchandise, is put on board, and again unladen in the easiest possible way ; and, there being little sea encountered in the course of the transit, there is no ne- cessity for holds and bulwarks to prevent the cargo from taking damage by the washing of the waves. As before remarked, there are some singular features in the sail from Mobile to New Orleans, inside the screen of low sandy islets which stretch along the coast. The shores of the gulf are very flat, and as might be expected, the water is very shallow, so that skill is required in navigating the ship along. Indeed, in one part, and for a considerable distance, commencing at a place named " Grant's Pass," the channel of the deep water was staked off by long poles, most of them having brooms on the top, after the fashion used with us, and, I believe, also in America, in indicating that a ship is for sale. At the point named Grant's Pass, there was a house standing midst the waste of brown waters which surrounded it on all sides, constituting what appeared to me about as watery and uncomfortable a location as I could have supposed possible—the discomfort being aggravated by the conviction that a very trifling increase of the waters would sweep the inmates into eternity. I thought so when I saw Grant's Pass ; but my after-experience of the log-huts of the Mississippi, when the river was in a state of flood, convinced me that I had much yet to learn of the discomfort to which ail persons will bo disposed to submit in the struggle of life. Entering at 190 NEW ORLKANS. Grant's Pass, the impetuous Oregon proceeded in her course through- out what may be most graphically described as a marine race-course, which continued for considerably upwards of a mile. The sea during the whole way was brown and turbid, and reminded me strongly of Captain Basil Hall's description of the yellowish-brown colour of the sea among the Loo-Choo Islands. Leaving Mobile about mid-day, we reached the point of disembarkation on Lake Pont-chartrain early next morning ; and, after a damp walk to the trains, started, in tolerable railway carriages, along a line of rails five miles in length, and through a tract of country in which the land and water seemed to contend for the mastery. Of the country passed through, as well as of the whole country in and about New Orleans, there may be made the remark which Dickens, in his serial of David Copperjield, makes of the town of Yarmouth. " A mound or so might have improved it ; and, if the land had been a little more separated from the sea, and the town and the tide had not been quite BO much mixed up, it would have been nicer." That it certainly would. At times the characteristic of New Orleans and of the country round it is, that it is one entire swamp. Dig wherever you choose, the hole fills with water, the consequence of which is that— to use an expression common among the inhabitants themselves — the cellars of the houses are of necessity above ground. Another consequence is, that in few parts of New Orleans need the lover of such sport dc^ rive himself of the luxury of a rat nunt. Such is New Orleans and its environs at all times. I entered the town in the midst of an almost deluge of rain, which lasted for two whole days; and, a few days after that, the "Crevasse" broke out, and occupied the attention of the alarmed inhabitants during the rest of my stay. It is not my intention to give either a history or a detailed de- scription of New Orleans. The former is sufficiently well known to most readers ; and, being a matter of history, can be easily learned from more ambitious works, by any one desirous of knowing more about the matter; while the latter can most readily be obtained from any of the numerous guide-books to be found in New Orleans, as well as almost everywhere else. But there are one or two things which it would not be proper to leave unmentioned. The St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans, may almost be said to be the building of the city. It looks, with its lofty dome, like the capitol of the town ; and from the summit of this dome there is to be had about the best view that can be obtained of the whole city and sur- rounding country. Called the " Crescent City", from the fact that it is built along a curve on the left bank of the Mississippi, New Orleans consists, in reality, of two towns, which have a very different aspect the one frorn )urse through- le race-course, 'he sea during ne strongly of I colour of the bout mid-day, Pont-chartrain rains, started, five miles in ind and water issed through, Orleans, there •ial of David mound or so a little more Dot been quite kt it certainly is and of the wherever you hich is that— themselves — id. Another i the lover of I entered the asted for two i" broke out, bs during the detailed de- ^ell known to easily learned nowing more obtained from w Orleans, as or two things said to be the kc the capitol is to be had city and sur- built along a IS consists, in t the one from NEW ORLEANS. 191 the other. The smaller and older part is that laid out and settled by the French, who founded New Orleans in 1717, while the larger and newer portion owes its erection to the energies of the Anglo- Saxon race. The marked difference between the two requires to be seen to be appreciated. Words could give only a vague idea of it. But some notion of its stationary character, under its first masters, and of its rapid progress since Louisiana changed hands, may be gathered from the following facts. In 1717, New Orleans was founded by the French, and continued with them or the Spanish (who had it some forty years) till 1803, when it fell into the hands of the United States as part of Louisiana. At that time it could not have been of much importance, inasmuch as, in 1810, it was found to contain only 17,242 inhabitants. In 1820, it had increased to above 27,000 ; in 1830, to 46,310 ; and in 1840, to 102,193. At present (in 1850) it may be fairly considered as containing above 150,000 inhabitants, and therefore the fourth city in the United States in point of population, while it is the third in point of com- merce. As I have already mentioned, the Crevasse broke out while I was in the Crescent City, and during my stay it formed part of the prin- cipal topics of conversation. And well it might. Imagine, reader a mighty — the mightiest — river in the known world, having broken (not merely overflowed, but broken) its banks for a space of some naif mile or so, and gradually, despite all the efforts of the energetic human inhabitants of the surrounding country, (by sinking of bar- ges, steamboats, and otherwise,) increasing the extent of its debou- chure, and pouring its waters into the loioer level of the conterminous lands. And imagine, too, that in the midst of the scene, or rather at the point most exposed to its ravages, the luxurious inhabitants were making the increase of the waters, in their streets and around their dwellings, the subject of light-hearted chat — that in the morn- ing your drive down the " shell road" was so surrounded with water that you might almost have fished out of the windows of the car- riage as you passed along; and your evening journey, as you drove to the conversationef the dance, or the theatre, was through water, which mounted some inches up the spokes of your carriage-wheels ; and add to all this, that the occasional — I had almost said constant — subject of conversation, was the probability of New Orleans being, some fine, or at least some floating day, washed down bodily into the Gulf of Mexico ! — many sage reasons being given, and many great scientific authorities being quoted, to prove the exceeding probability of such an event : and so imagining, you will have some idea of the characteristics of New Orleans society at the time of my visit, in 1849. It scarcely required the ravages of cholera, which was then visiting the city, to add anything to the dismals of the scene ; but so 192 NEW ORLEANS— THE « LEVEE." it was. In the town of New Oileans, and specially in the neighour- hood, and in the vessels on the river, cholera was raging to a very considerable extent. Certainly, therefore, it cannot be supposed that my visit to the Crescent City was made at a time calculated to leave on my mind a very favourable opinion as to its salubrity ; and it is chiefly on that account that I have troubled the reader with the above details. For notwithstanding the fact that my opinion was formed under circum- stances so disadvantageous to arriving at a favourable one, I maintain and record the fact, that the un healthiness of New Orleans is much exaggerated. No doubt the yellow fever visits it much oftener, and commits in it more fearful ravages, than is at all desirable ; but there are few places secure from the attacks of epidemics — and it is gene- rally conceded that, with the greater attention now paid to sewerage and cleanliness, the deaths from yellow fever have greatly decreased, so that there is every reason to hope that the very circumstance of its being necessary to adopt many precautionary measures against such periodical attacks may, in the course of time, render New Or- leans as healthy a town as almost any in the American Union. In connexion with the subject of the Crevasse, and in the almost hourly speculations as to what part of New Orleans was to be carried down into the Gulf, or whether any part of it was to be spared that fate, I heard such frequent mention of the " Levee," as to lead me to make special inquiry as to its nature, uses, and history. The Levee of which one is doomed to hear much during their stay in New Or- leans, and which occupies so important a position, and discharges so important a duty, as fully to justify such constant and respectful mention of it, is neither more nor less than a simple embankment to prevent the waters of the mighty Mississippi from inundating the fertile though marshy plains which stretch away from either bank. Opposite the city, the Levee is of considerable breadth, and it looks as if it were competent to the task assigned it, of saying to the turgid waters of the " Father of Rivers," thus far shalt thou come but no farther. But farther up the stream — and it extends upwards for a great distance, above a hundred miles — it seems singularly inade- quate, being in many places little more than a comparatively small earthen mound or (Jicottice) " turf dyke." During my stay in New Orleans the Mississippi rose to a greater bight than it had done for many years before ; and the consequence was that a large portion of the Levee, about five miles above the city, and to the extent of above half a mile long, gave way ; and the waters continued for many days to pour through the gap and into the surrounding country, destroy- ing property to a very largo amount, and ruining many planters ; after which it found its way down to the town, many streets of which were covered with water for days. During this overflow large num- - the neigbour- jing to a very Y visit to the on my mind a hicfly on that J details. For under circum- ne, I maintain rieans is much h oftener, and ble ; but there and it is gene- id to sewerage atly decreased, ircumstance of •asures against mder New Or- n Union. I in the almost IS to be carried be spared that as to lead me •y. The Levee ay in New Gr- ind discharges and respectful mbankment to nundating the n either bank, and it looks I to the turgid come but no upwards for a igularly inade- iratively small y stay in New had done for rge portion of xtent of above 'or many days intry, dcstroy- lany planters ; reets of which aw large num- NEW ORLEANS— THE CREVASSE. 193 bers of snakes, and other reptiles from the swamps, found their way into the streets of the Crescent City. Conger snakes — the most venom- ous known in the country — were seen in the water in several parts of the town ; and a little girl in the Faubourg Trien^, while wading in the waters flowing along the street, was, in May 1849, bitten by a snake or some other reptile, and that so severely that she died in a few hours. Such are part of the efiects of a Crevasse in the Levee which protects the town of New Orleans from the waters of the great Mississippi. At the time I write of, great fears were entertained for the safety of a considerable portion of the town itself j but by dint of great exertion, sinking of boats, bales, and rafts — in the course of doing which, many of the Negro slaves employed at the work perished of cholera or of fatigue — the Crevasses were stopped, and, for a time at least, the Crescent City is safe. I confess that it engendered somewhat of a strange feeling to be in the city day after day, while the overflow was progressing, and conscious that it had not been stopped, and that thousands of tons of water were pouring in on the plain in which was youi dwelling — to listen and take part in the conversation which speculated on the chance of the site of New Or- leans being some day or other added to the Gulf of Mexico — or the town at least washed down into the Gulf. There is a very prevalent opinion in New Orleans, that the bed of the Mississippi is annually rising, and most plausible reasons are assigned to prove that such must be the fact. I do not feel warranted, by sufficient acquaintance with the habitudes of this mammoth river, nor have I sufficiently studied the sciences of hydrostatics or hydraulics, to entitle me to pronounce an opinion on the subject; but, without troubling my readers with the pros and cons of the argument, I may be permitted to express a hope that they will concur with me in thinking that, if the bed of Father Mississippi rises from under him, Father Mis- sissippi would be quite entitled to resent the indignity by getting up from his bed. Seriously speaking, however, there does seem some cause for the opinion referred to j and it is to be hoped that some one of the many courses which the science and skill of modern engineers have suggested, may be adopted, and may be found suffi- cient to ward oflF the apprehended danger. That a large emporium will exist on the site of New Orleans, or as near thereto as the waters will permit, till the end of time, or at least so long as American or Anglo-Saxon civilisation lasts, will be abundantly evident to any one who thinks of the matter with a map of the country in his hands, and some slight knowledge of the land to enable him to understand it. Situated at the outlet of the Mississippi, itself navigable for large vessels for nearly three thousend miles — and by it and its giant tribu- taries the Missouri, the Ohio, the Arkansas, the Red River, &c., connected with a plain of unexampled extent, all of it a region of 17 194 NEW ORLEANS— CEMETERIES. great fertility — already partially peopled, and now feat peopling, with the energetic Anglo-Saxon race — it is next to impossible that New Orleans, or whatever the city may be called that takes the place of New Orleans, as being situated at the extremity of this line of inland communication, can ever fail to be a place of enormous trade and exceeding prosperity. New Orleans is pre-eminently a city of trade — and being fio, the most interesting view in or of it is that of the harbour from the river, with the forest of masts stretching almost as far as the eye can reach. Nevertheless, and although trade is written in large characters on almost every building, and on almost every face, the Crescent City makes great pretensions as a city of gaiety and fashion. It contains three theatres^one French, and the other two English. It generally has an operatic company, and dances, masquerades, and fancy-balls, are of very frequent occurrence. That these should be the characteristics of a city so very much given up to the turmoil, bustle, and business of mercantile life — that men whose time during the greater part of the day is devoted to sugar hogsheads, tobacco, and cotton bales, to ships' freights and cargoes, should in the evening feel disposed to an excess of devo- tion to music and to mirth may seem surprising. Yet so it is. New Orleans is a place of great gaiety at certain seasons of the year ; and if the fact that the very devotedness of its inhabitants to trade during the forenoon induces them to relax in the refine- ments of gay life in the evening, be not a sufficient explanation, the only one other that occurs to me is, that, where there is a large migratory and changing population— as there unquestionably is in New Orleans — there are generally found many means provided for public amusement. It is often said, and there is much truth in the remark, that the theatres of London and Paris are mainly sup- ported by the casual visitors to these great cities. The cemeteries of New Orleans may be classed among the nota- bilia of the place. The same causes which compel the inhabitants to make their cellars above ground regulate the nature and forma- tion of their last resting-places. These are likewise built uporij instead of in the land. Both the Catholic and Protestant burial- places are worthy of a visit. The former is the larger of the two, and a description of one will suffice for both. The Roman Catholic cemetery of New Orleans is a very interesting place, and it is ren- dered more so by the flowers and shrubs with which it is tastefully and appropriately adorned. It occupies a large space of ground, and contains various monuments, many of them both appropriate and beautiful. Accustomed to associate undulating grounds, caves, shady walks, and deep groves, with my ideas of a fitting necropolis, I had not conceived that, without such adjuncts, a place of tombs THF MISSISSIPPI. 195 >eopling, with ►le that New the place of line of inland 9US trade and being «o, the our from the ar as the eye itten in large rery face, the f gaiety and tnd the other , and dances, t occurrence. 30 very much cantile life-^ ay is devoted i' freights and cess of devo- Yet so it is. easons of the ,8 inhabitants in the refine- explanation, lere is a large tionably is in provided for luch truth in mainly sup- )ng the nota- e inhabitants '6 and forma- built uporif jstant burial- r of the two, man Catholic and it is ren- is tastefully e of ground, appropriate ounds, caves, g necropolis, ice of tombs could be made so grateful to the feelings of a sorrower as was this cemetery of the city of New Orleans. Like the Campo Santo of Havanna, already described when writing of Cuba, the Roman Catholic graveyard of the Crescent City is surrounded by a high wall, which is of great thickness, and occupied by a succession of recesses, to which access is had from the inside. These recesses form family places of sepulture. The space within the walls is oc- cupied by tombs of marble or of stone, built upon the land, and constructed so as to hold one or more bodies, which are thus lite- rally buried above ground. Some of these sepulchres are of very elegant formation, but none of the inscriptions that caught my eye seemed to warrant transcription. The characteristic of the Protestant cemetery is the number of that most graceful of all graceful trees — the weeping willow. These are planted so as to overhang and overshadow the sepulchres, and they fl*^ rish luxuriantly in a soil so rich, and otherwise so congenial.' Ere the Crevasse had ceased to pour fourth its waters, I em- barked at New Orleans in the steam-sh'p Peytona, to proceed thence direct to Louisville, Kentucky, on the banks of the Ohio. Even now I can recall the singular conflict of feelings with which I took shipping for the voyage up the mighty Mississippi. It was a disappointment, and yet it was not so. Since boyhood had I been in the habit of associating the name of this Father of Rivers with ideas of indefinite greatness, the very vagueness of which formed the chiefest attraction. And now I was at last upon its waters, which, great as I felt them to be, and while they dispelled at once the pictures imagination had formed, certainly did not sup- ply by the reality a scene adequate to fill the place left vacant. Opposite new Orleans the Mississippi is not more than half a mile wide, but it is from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet deep; and certainly one [of the most striking circumstances, if not the most striking circumstance, connected with a sail up this gigantic river, is fouud in the fact that, for such a long distance — a distance of above fourteen hundred miles, (equal to that between England and Madeira,) — and notwithstanding the frequent pouring in of tributaries, almost as gigantic as himself, the Mississippi ap- pears to vary little either in breadth or in depth. Few things could, I think, give a more graphic idea of the magnitude of a great river than the fact that it could receive the volume of waters continuously poured into it by streams almost as large as itself, without the traveller on its " waste of waters" perceiving that any change has taken place. It requires a very graphic pen to make a detailed narrative of river scenery interesting, and it is not my intention to try the 196 THE MISSISSIPPI. I'.^f' patience of my readers in this way. Besides, I doubt not but the scenery exhibited to view during an ascent of the Mississippi has been often described ; and have we not Banvard's panoramic paint- ing, exhibiting at least the main features of the river, almost from its birth in the Ilocky Mountains till its grave in the Gulf of Mexico? But I desire, for the guidance and information of those who may read my book, and afterwards visit the scenes, to record my impres- sions and experience when making this voyage. Some of them may not be found to be much of the nature of allurements to follow my steps ; but, whatever my record may be, I can at least promise my reader that it will be a true and faithful one. And first, then, of the steam-ship Peytona, in herself a very favourable specimen of a Mississippi steam-ship. As a matter of course, (seeing the scene of her exploits was the Mississippi,) her engines were high-pressure, but, notwithstanding this fact, she had been a considerable time sailing the river without having met with a " blow-up," or, indeed, any accident of a serious kind. Apropos of explosions on the Mississippi, there is a very exaggerated notion on this subject prevalent in Europe, and even in the northern states of the American Union, the impression generally being that explosions on the Mississippi are matters of everyday, or at least of very fre- quent occurrence. But I can assure my readers — and I am sure that Captain Browne of the Peytona will readily corroborate my assurance — that whatever tourists may say to give piquancy to their narratives, and whatever painters may delineate to add interest and excitement to their representations, an explosion of a Mississippi steamer is the exception, but not the rule. It is too expensive a trade to be much indulged in. The Peytona — so-called in honour of a famous southern racing mare, the property I believe of a Mr. Peyton — is, or was, a large superior vessel of her kind. Her extreme length was two hundred and sixty feet, of which two hundred and twenty-four were occupied by her principal cabin — oflF which were the state rooms, fifty in num- ber, and containing two berths in each. These state rooms had doors entering from the cabin and again from the gallery outside. The extreme breadth of the ship was seventy-two feet, and the pad- dle-wheels were thirty-three feet in diameter. The vessel was 750 tons burthen, and, notwithstanding all this, the depth of her hold was only eight feet three inches: a fact only to be explained by reference to the great breadth of the framework by which the whole was supported. She was propelled by two somewhat coarsely fashion- ed steam-engines, and had two cylinders of thirty and a half inches diameter, with a ten feet stroke. Take her all in all; the Peytona was — and I hope is — an unques- t not but the ississippi has loramic paint- , almost from the Gulf of lose who may rd my impres- 5 of them may to follow my t promise my lerself a very lS a matter of ssissippi,) her fact, she had ing met with a Apropos of ited notion on hem states of hat explosions it of very fre- ind I am sure jrroborate my lancy to their interest and a Mississippi expensive a luthern racing was, a large two hundred were occupied fifty in num- e rooms had lery outside. and the pad- ssel was 750 1 of her hold explained by ich the whole rsely fashion- i half inches ■—an unques- THE MISSISSIPPI. 197 tionably fine steam-b If she had not the mirrors, mahogany, rosewood, and gilding, on \ is accustomed to see in the steam-ships of the Clyde, she had much roomier cabins, and everything as bright and clean as paint and scrubbing could make them — so bright, so clean, and so uncontaminated in the mommy, that it was truly vex- atious, if not worse, to see the deck, ere evening came, scarcely visible through the defilements of tobacco juice, expectorated by the passengers at a great expenditure of jaw as well as of health. But the Peytona was not only good, but fast ; and in traversing the Mississippi and the Ohio, for fourteen hundred miles or thereby up to Louisville, Kentucky, we overtook and passed nearly all — if not all — the steamers that had sailed from New Orleans for distant ports on our route, within four days of our leaving New Orleans. The Niles we passed without compunction or competition ; the Bride we overtook, but deserted on the river j the Concordia we over- reached and beai, after a struggle which elicited shoutings from the Negro crews of either vessel which were the very reverse of con- cord ; and several other competitors shared the same fate. Most of these vessels were literally filled with steerage passengers, chiefly natives of the Emerald Isle ; and powerfully graphic must be the pen that would give a proper idea of the sufferings these poor peo- ple frequently have to endure in the prosecution of such a voyage in search of a foreign home — sufferings chiefly, if not altogether, caused by their ignorance and inexperience, and consequent inability to make proper arrangements even to the extent of their limited means. I have much to say on this subject, but for the present will forbear, as I shall have an opportunity of recurring to it in some after remarks on emigration to America, which I propose introducing at the close of the book, but which the reader may pass over if he pleases. Meanwhile, I would only record the fact that, at the time of which I write, hundreds of unfortunate emigrants, who had gathered their all and left their native much-loved land, and crossed the broad Atlantic in search of a foreign home, perished in the steamers, and on the shores of the Mississippi, from damp, exposure, and the rava- ges of cholera thereby induced. On board the Peytona we had comparatively few steerage passengers, owin^,, no doubt, to the pas- sage-money being somewhat higher than in most of the ot'-ier steam- ers. In the cabin, the charge was twenty-five dollars from New Orleans to Louisville; and when it is considered that this charge included board at a very excelleut table, and a sleeping berth during a voyage of above fourteen hundred miles, it will not be regarded as anything but exceedingly moderate. For about the same dis- tance — viz., from Southampton to Madeira — in the British West Indian steam-ships, the fare is five times as much. In this, as well as in some other respects, we have surely something to learn from 17* m 198 THE MISSISSIPPI. ^ "^ML-^ our transatlantic brethren ; and if they would improve somewhat on their present system, by seeing that it is no inroad upon the general principle of all men being equal aii regard political rights, to allow those willing to spend five dollars lo have the accommodation pro- portioned to five dollars, without tyrannically compelling them to pay only one dollar, and to be content with the accommodation which it secures; — we at the same time would much improve our present system, if we took greater care that we did not " pay too dear for our whistle." Before leaving New Orleans — ay, before leaving Scotland, or set- ting my foot on the continent of America — my ear had been familiar with extravagant statements as to the extraordinary speed attained by the steamships of the Mississippi. Being somewhat inclined to credit the marvels I heard, my consolation for the more mediocre state of things in my native land of able but considerate engineers, was, that the lightning-like rapidity of the States was attained at a commensuiate risk to life and limb. Even in New Orleans, and while studying the proportions or no-proportions of the marine mon- sters that lay alongside of the wharves, I have heard the bile of many a northern, as well as my own incredulity, excited by statements '.hat the Peytona, and other high-pressure Mississippi steamships, ascended as well as descended the river at the rate of fifteen, eighteen, twenty, and even twenty-five miles an hour, a preference being obviously given to the latter number : and many a wam-hearted southern, whose general veracity it would have been gross injustice to have questioned, being prepared to close the argument with his ready " fact — meipso teste" Twenty or twenty-five miles an hour, and against a current fiowicg at the speed of some three and a half miles — and that attained by a steamship costing not above one-third the sum per ton, that is expended in such vessels in the river Clyde ! Hear this, ye Napiers aud others, who have advanced the name of Scottish engineers all over the globe, and who have, by the steam- ships of your fashioning, to cross the Channel and the broad Atlantic, done more to promote the great cause of civilisation, to bind man to man, and to consolidate peace, than has been done by all the ambas- sadors and plenipoiburig.nes ever sent forth, or all the statutes placed upon the statute-book. Hear it, !ind tremble for your well-earned laurels, if the statement he true, But it is not true : no such speed has ever been attained on the Mississippi, even by the most go-ahead blow-up style of craft that was ever launched upon his turbid waters. The statistics already given might have shown that the Peytona is anything but among the inferior of the steamers navigating this great highway of waters — in fact she is one of the very best, and likely to continue so — and yet, on the voyage in question, she took exactly six days to go from New Orleans to Louisville. The distance is e somewhat on (On the general igbts, to allow imodation pro- slling them to iccommodution b improve our not "pay too Gotland, or set- l been familiar speed attained lat inclined to more mediocre rate engineers, s attained at a N Orleans, and le marine mon- le bile of many statements '^bat ships, ascended ;hteen, twenty, eing obviously irted southern, istice to have ith his ready an hour, and id a half miles one-third the e river Clyde ! d the name of by the steam- ►road Atlantic, bind man to all the arabas- jtatutes placed ur well-earned no such speed most go-ahead turbid waters, he Peytona is ting this great and likely to took exactly 'he distance is THE MISSISSIPPI. 199 slightly more than fourt'jen hundred miles ; so that, making allow- ance for about half a day occupied by the repair of a paddle-wheel, injured by coming in contact with a snag or sa-wyer, her average speed was at the rate of about ten miles an hour. No doubt this was against a somewhat rapid current — a curren t generally, and by those anxious to vaunt the superiority of the Mississippi boats over those of the northern rivers, or of Europe, said tc run at the rate of four miles an hour j and which, after estimating its rapidity by the move- ments of the rafts, logs of wood, travelling sh?ps, &c., which passed while we were stationary, repairing our paddle-wheel on the shore of Arkansas, I deliberately assert does not flow faster than tLree and an half miles an hour. But the reader (particularly if a southerner,) may be ready to exclaim, ten miles an liour against a current run- ning at the rate of three and a half miles is a great speed. No doubt it is — and this is just one of the many instances in which peo- ple would act wisely if they " let well alone." The Mississippi steamers go fast, but they don't go faster than the steamers of Eng- land and Scotland, or of the northern states of the American Union. Again, it may be natural to ask, if such is the speed of the steamers when sailing up and against the stream, what is their speed when moving down, when they are not only relieved from the obstruction of the current, but aided by its flow in the direction thay are sailing in ? I cannot speak from personal experience of this, never having sailed down the ocean rivers of the Western World. But I have made inquiry on the subject when on the spot, and I have tested the vruth of the information I received in answer to my inquiries, by a piece of real evidence which could not deceive me. Having been detained an extra day at New Orleans, waiting the arrival of the Peytona from her downward voyage from Louisville, I had occasion to know, and did know, when she reached New Orleans : and when on board of her going up, I observed and read the notice on the board which contained the announcement of the time at which she had actually left Louisville on her said voyage downwards. The re- sult corroborated the verbal statements made to me in answer to my inquiries on the subject, which was, that a steamer takes about as much time to go down as she does to go up. The fact is so j and the explanation is, that, when going down, vKese steamers are laden, if not overladen, with enormously heavy cargoes of merchandise — cotton in particular. No one who has seen a Mississippi steamer laden with cotton bales, going down the Mississippi, will discredit this statement. They look literally like floating storehouses of cot- ton; and when it is kept in view tliat each of these steamers brings down from one thousand to three thousand bales, the illustration will not seem in any way extravagant. Nor are the numbers of such ships, met with on the voyage upwards, by any means small ; it was 20C THE MISSISSIPPI. S 1 M ^^SlI by no means a rare or an unusual sight : many were encountered be- tween sunrise and sunset, and those that met and passed us in the course of the night, may reasonably be presumed to have been at least as numerous. Such and so numerous are the ste&ui ships of the Mississippi. Of the general character and characteristics of the travellers met with, in traversing its ^ 'aters, I have already written according to my ex- perience of them. Next to these, the inquiry will naturally be as to the scenery opened up to view in passing along these rivers. And here too, I fear, my truthful narrative must be scarcely in accord- ance with those of more enthusiastic voyagers. That there is much to interest in a sail up the Mississippi, is undeniably the truth. The very vastness of the river itself, as it pours its waters along through the wilderness J the deep solitude through which you pass; the solemn gloom, which is the prevailing characteristic of the whole scene ; and the giant rivers, only second to the great Father of Waters himself, which from age to age continue ceaselessly to pour their waters into his mighty and turgid strear^^, but without making any apparent change either in its opaqueness or in its volume, are all circumstances which render the scenery of the Mississippi pe- culiarly striking. But if the landscape is impressive, it is certainly only impressive frcm its loneness and its vastness. There is a dis- mal sameness about it which is most depressing to the spirits; and, during the whole oi the passage from New Orleans to Louisville, I felt a depression most foreign to my nature, and most inimical to anything like jest or amusement ; while, if I might judge from the demeanour of the rest of my white fellow-voyagers, my feelings were participated in by nearly all on board. No doubt, brother Jonathan is not generally either a mirth-loving or a mirth-moving animal — at least, as regards his public appearances, it is but seldom that he per- petrates a joke-— and nothing can be more solemn (I had almost said ridiculously solemn) than the gravity and seriousness with which the travellers on the great routes and highways of the United States set to the business of eating and drinking, at their public tables. No doubt, with all wise men, the business of eating and drinking is quite entitled to be considered as a serious affair ; but theio is certainly neither philosophy in. nor necessity for, the ctreroe solemnity and silence with wh'ob^ at their public tables, (in private it is very dif- ferent,) our republican brethren address themselves to their meals. Dickens, in his Notes, asserts, with reference to such meals in America, that "undertakers on duty would be sprightly beside them ; and a collation of funeral baked meats, in comparison with their mealy, would be a sparkling festivity." The remark is unduly severe, and in it truth is somewhat sacrificed at the shrine of effect. But there is enough of truth in it to make it worthy of consideration •« THE MISSISSIPPI. 201 icountered be- 3sed us in the have been at 'ississippi. Of jrs met with, Dg to my ex- tturally be as 3 rivers. And i\y in accord- there is much le truth. The ilong through ou pass; the of the whole it Father of lessly to pour ;hout making 3 volume, are ississippi pe- lt is certainly ere is a dis- spirits; and, Louisville, I t inimical to ge from the 'eelings were ler Jonathan animal — at that he per- almost said th which the od States set tables. No sing is quite is certainly lemnity and is very dif- their meals, h meals in htly beside larison with k is unduly le of effect. }nsideration on the part of those to whom it relates. A joke (even though a bad one) is a great improver of social intercourse, as well as an import- ant aid to digestion ; and light, cheerful discourse ic unquestionably the very best seasoner of all repasts. It may be said of a joke what the Scotchman affirmed of a dram — a good meal deserves it and a bad one requires it ; so that, whether the viands be good or bad, the general comfort and happiness is improved thereby. But the meals on board the steam-ship Peytona, when voyaging on the Mississippi, were even more melancholy affairs than usual. Even now, I can re- call them only with the feelings with which one recalls the perform- ance of a duty ; and, amidst the whole reminiscences, I can scarcely remember one flitting smile as having passed over the faces of any of my fellow-travellers, (albeit there were several fair ones among them,) while engaged in the discharge of their daily task of eating and drinking. As, therefore, I felt uiiwonted depression under the influences of the scenery, it is fair to Imagine that similar feelings experienced by my fellow- voyagers. On, on we went, by night and day, through a continuity of forest scenery of a perfectly same character — so much so that, when looking out on the bank of the river at night, before going to bed, and again when gazing forth in the same direction next morning, you could have sworn that you saw the same morass and the same trees, although a distance of eighty or ninety miles divided the one spot from tho other. But, dismal in their dreary and pestilential solitudes as the shores of the Mississippi are at all times, they were especially so at the period of which I write. The river was very high — higher than it had been since 1816; and, for several hundred miles above New Orleans, the land along its banks was one flooded as well as wooded swamp. The slimy water was seen far in among the trees, far as the eye could penetrate ; and log huts, and other dwellings of the people who lived along the banks of the river, were so completely surrounded with water, as to render it necessary for their occupants to use boats as their means of entrance and of exit. In point of fact, the only living inmates of such locations that seemed to be at all in circumstances of tolerable comfort, were the ducks or geese, which sailed about the dwellings "rejoicing like boon companions over their liquor;" and even these animals must occasionally have felt the want of a dry nest to repose in, after the fatigue of a day's ploughing in the muddy waters of the great Father of Eivers. In many case« the waters had risen far above the level of the floors of the d-vei'j^ngs; but, not being privileged to see the interiors of the " Edens of the west/* we could not say how far the inhabitants may have succeeded in turning the circumstances to good account, or in resisting its evil influences. With such scenes presented day after day, and hour after hour, ■^« 202 (THE MISSISSIPPI. it was only a fitting tribute to the gifted author of Martin Chuz- zlewit, that the recollection of his description of Martin and Mark Tapley going to and at the site of the projected city of Eden, should have risen frequently to my mind. " By degrees the towns in the route became more thinly scattered, and for many hours together they would see no other habitations than the huts of the woodcutters where the vessel stopped for fuel. Sky, wood, and water all the livelong day, and heat that blistered everything it touched." Another general characteristic of voyaging, or rather steaming, on the Mississippi, is the total absence of sailing craft. For thou- sands of miles on the Mississippi and its tributaries, you will not Bee a single vessel under sail. In this respect it contrasts remark- ably with its lovely rival in American scenic fame, the sprightly, glo- rious Hudson, on steaming upon which you are continually greeted with that loveliest of all lovely objects connected with a river or sea view — a host of vessels under canvas. In lieu of such, but a very poor substitute, the Mississippi has her flat-boats or floating storehouses — her travelling shops and family moving mansions — and occasionally her floating theatres or places of public exhibi- tion. But all these are going down, floating lazily on the down- ward stream, guided, but scarcely impelled, by long poles or sweeps held in the hands of the boatmen ; and if any of them sported anything of the nature of a sail, it was so far remote from a sai- lor's idea of such, that it may without injustice be left out of con- sideration altogether. Previous to the establishment of steamers, the whole trade of the Mississippi was conducted by means of those flat-bottomed boats ; and even yet they form so distinct and so characteristic a feature of the sail, that any description of the river, without pro- minent mention of them, would be incomplete. In such vessels or hollow rafts, the produce is floated down from distances of three thousand miles, and lesser distances, to the town of New Orleans, there to be disposed of by shipment or otherwise. The boats are little more than square boxes, the roof somewhat rounded, and a large space occupied as the hold, containing Indian corn and other farm produce, and a smaller portion being occupied by the human inhabitants of this floating habitation. The boat moves along with the flow of the river, which runs at the rate of about three and a half, and under four miles an hour ; while the boatmen regulate its motions by means of long poles. In piloting themselves along, these boatmen encounter much risk as well from steamers dur- ing the night as from " snags," " planters," and " sawyers," both by night and day, and even still more from the eddies, of which many are to be found in the river. I was told a story of a party on board a flat boat being surprised to hear a continuous strain of pose o for su steamt to rep< in one by hei percei'' selves Martin Clvua- 'tin and Mark city of Eden, rees the towns r many hours le huts of the ood, and water g it touched." her steaming, ft. For thou- !, you will not trasts remark- sprightly, glo- iiually greeted L a river or sea ' such, but a a.ts or floating ig mansions — public exhibi- on the down- oles or sweeps them sported te from a sai- }ft out of eon- hole trade of flat-bottomed laracteristic a , without pro- i such vessels ances of three New Orleans, he boats are unded, and a )rn and other y the human es along with three and a men regulate selves along, teamers dur- wyers," both ies, of which y of a party ous strain of THE MISSISSIPPI. 203 music and mirth for some six or eight hours, which fell on their ears, as they imagined themselves to be floating onwards at the rate of four miles per hour. But when morning broke, they found that they had been merely sailing round and round in an eddy, in one of the bends of the river — the said eddy being caused by one of those sudden changes which are so frequent in the Mississippi, and the music being the strains from the fiddle of a man, whose solitary house they had passed and repassed in the course of their gyrations. Some of these flat boats are of a smaller size, and are occupied as floating shops, containing and retailing supplies of tea, tobacco, candles, groceries, and other articles, for the use of the inhabitants along the banks. In some others, the trades of tin- kers, smiths, &c., are carried on, as they journey down the river, making fast to the river-side at every place where the circum- stances make it expedient. All at last reach New Orleans, where, as it is impossible to sail up again against the current, they dis- pose of their temporary floating-house, (or abandon it, if the market for such articles be glutted,) and return by one or other of the steamers to the place whence they had originally set out, probably to repeat the same thing again and again. Sometimes the interest, in one of these flat boats and its motley inhabitants, is increased by hearing from it the strains of a fiddle, or of a banjo, or by perceiving that the Negroes or others on board, are amusing them- selves by dancing. When formerly writing of the apparent de- pression of spirits exhibited by the party on board the Peytona, I used advisedly the term " white " fellow-passengers, for assuredly the remark does not apply to the Negro. Sambo is generally in good spirits, and boisterous in his mirth, as any one will admit who has heard the shouting, laughing, jibing, and singing, be- tween the Negroes on board two Mississippi steamships, as they struggle for precedence during one of those too common and very dangerous races up or down the river. As a matter of course, wood is the fuel used in the Mississippi and Ohio steam-ships, although, after ascending a considerable dis- tance, some coals may be had, and are often taken on board. But wood is the principal fuel, and the mode of wooding is a very simple In going down, the steamer requires to stop and come to, to one. get the wood put on board from the floats on which it is lying heaped up in what is called " cords," or piles of a certain specific length and depth, because the floats could not be brought back if allowed to float to any distance down the current. But in going up, this detention is avoided. The steamer goes close to the bank — the woodman and his assistants having been previously hailed, and being ready to put off" his float or floats ; and, one or more of the boats or rafts being attached by the hawsers of the steamer to the pant- 204 THE MISSISSIPPI. ing monster, the latter then proceeds on her upward course, drag- ging the wood boats with her, and only slightly retarded, and panting a little more by the additional weight which she has thus to drag through the waters. This being done, the clerk of the steam-ship, or his assistant, proceeds on board the raft or rafts, and measures the wood, and the price being then adjusted, (if it has not been so before,) parties from the steamer then proceed to aid the boatmen to empty the floats of their cargoes, by throwing the large billets ^four feet long) on to the deck of the steamer. " Many hands make light work ; " and it being a matter of importance to both parties concerned, that, on the one hand, the steamer should not be retarded by the wood boats longer than is absolutely neces- sary, and that, on the other hand, the woodmen should have as short a retur voyage as possible, it is striking the rapidity with which large floats are emptied of their contents. At first I was surprised at the numbers of workmen that poured from the steamer to the raft, as soon as the moorings were fastened — or even before — and erroneously imagined that the Mississippi steamers must have an unusually large complement of hands. But on inquiring at the master (and I believe owner) of the ship, I found that the many hands who thus make light work of the wooding were most of them Mississippi boatmej, who, having sailed down the river with their rafts and merchandise, and having disposed of both the latter at New Orleans, were now returning to their homes, and thus " work- ing their passage" upwards, in a very praiseworthy spirit, saving their pockets by aiding in putting the fuel on board the steam-ship. In sailing up the Mississippi, from New Orleans to its junction with the Ohio, and again up the Ohio as far as the town of Louis- ville, in the state of Kentucky, and of Cincinnati in the state of Ohio, you pass in succession, either on the right or left hand, along the shores of the states of Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas, Ten- nessee, Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky, Indiana, and Ohio. You thus have a fair opportunity of contrasting at least the general outward aspect of some of the slaveholding states, with that of states where slavery is unknown, or has been abolished ; and, truth to say, the contrast is very great — so great as to be in itself a powerful sermon in favour of abolition. But the " sermon " here is not " in trees," but ir the want of them. The white labourer, with his arm of freedom, seems alone capable of struggling successfully against the giants of the forest ; and, wherever you see a tract of ground more than usually clear, and of more than common fertility, as you sail up the mighty stream of the Mississippi, and gaze on the vast soli- tudes which are to be seen on its banks, rest assured that the party you are so gazing on belongs to a free state, and not to a slavehold- ing one. . w QgU Once the over shade a lar^ hours the [ course, drag- retarded, and i she has thus I clerk of the t or rafbS; and ted, (if it has proceed to aid throwing the imer. " Many importance to teamer should solutely necee- have as short ty with which was surprised fceamer to the 1 before— and must have an [uiring at the bat the many most of them ver with their the latter at thus "work- spirit, saving le steam-ship. > its junction )wn of Louis- the state of 't hand, along rkansas, Ten- 0. You thus leral outward states where h to say, the erful sermon "in trees,'* his arm of r against the ground more as you sail he vast soli- lat the party a slavehold- THE MISSISSIPPI. 205 When mentioning the process of clearing, I am reminded of the singular effect produced by the mode in which this is gone about. Once or oftener, in the course of a day, there is to be seen, from the upper deck of the steamer, a largo tract of still wooded country, over which it would seem as if the angel of death had cast his shade. A bligbt has passed over all the gigantic forest trees within a large circumference, and the viridity of their still flourishing neigh- bours, by whom the plague-struck spot is surrounded, only renders the blasted and brown appearance of the stricken trees the more remarkable. And truly they are stricken — literally stricken — and that by the axe wielded by the stalworth arm of the backwoodsman. The process which engenders the appearance described is shortly this : When it has been resolved to clear any portion of land of the timber growing on it, the first step taken by the woodcutter is, to cut a notch some inches deep into and through the bark, at the bot- tom of the trees. This prevents the ascent of the sap ; the trees wither and decay, and of course speedily assume the blighted ap- pearance already referred to — and thus they stand until, being suf- ficiently decayed, the next powerful storm of wind comes in aid of the woodcutter's operations, by levelling them with the ground. Ere this consummation is attained, the trees have the blasted appear- ance to which allusion has been above made. Who is there who has heard of the navigation of the Father of Rivers, without hearing of the "snags" and "sawyers," which form impediments and dangers to be encountered in navigating his stream ? The vast volume of waters moving through the great alluvial plain, and ofttimes overflowing large portions of it, frequently changes their course and direction. The bank on one side is undermined for a considerable distance, and then disappears in the mighty, muddy stream, carrying down to the bottom with it the trees grow- ing upon its surface ; which trees ofttimes get stopped by some shoal, and are then embedded in the bottom of the river by gradual accumulations of sand. On the other or opposite bank, in most cases, there is a proportionate part of the former bed of the river left exposed and comparatively dry, and the part from which the I water has thus receded is speedily — indeed ere the season closes — covered with a luxuriant crop of young cotton-wood trees. The trees overwhelmed and sunk in the new channel the river has formed for itself, are known by the terms "snags" or "sawyers," according to their powers of doing mischief. When the submerged tree stands upright and fixed, it is less objectionable, and is called a "snag," or occasionally a "planter;" while, when the end which rises abovo the water points in a slanting direction, and dips up and down as it is moved by the current, its characteristically descriptive name is a " sawyer." 18 206 THE OHIO. ft, ;:§,( Thunder-storms are of very frequent occurrence about the shores of the Mississippi ; and what has been already said of the loneness of the scene, will prepare the reader for the statement, that there is much that is very imposing and impressive in the rolling and rever- berating of the thunder, and the flashing of the lightning on this gigantic river, and among these vast sylvan solitudes. It seems as if it were the only artillery proportionate to the scene. Another feature of the Mississippi, already noticed when writing of the steamboats, is the total absence of vessels under sail. During a ten days' sail on the broad deep stream, I did not perceive any nearer approach to a white sail than was to be seen in the square dirty rag of some bargeman, who was thus endeavouring to aid the power of the downward current, by seeking a little assistance from a favouring breeze. About three hundred miles up the river from New Orleans stands the town of Natchez — containing some five or six thousand inhabit- ants^-divided into Natchez on the hill, and Natchez under the hill, and having a short time back a very villainous reputation, as the place of harbourage of various bands of gamblers and other disreputables, but now enjoying a somewhat better and an improving character. About two hundred miles beyond Natchez, the steamer touches at the very picturesque little town of Vicksburg, (famous for the summary justice some years ago executed on the persons of a band of these very same gamblers, already mentioned) j and steaming on- wards for some five hundred miles farther, and passing various small stations, including Helena, a town of ab^ut five hundred inhabitants, (lately the scene of a diabolical tragedy *n the burning of a slave,) you arrive at the town of Memphis, a town which— despite the an- cient name that has been given to it — ^bears as many of the marks of modem movement as any upon the route. One or two days' far- ther steaming brings you to the mouth of the Ohio, into which I passed, with anything save a feeling of regret that I was exchanging the dull oppressive sameness of the Mississippi, for the somewhat bolder and more varied scenery of the Ohio. Up the latter river we proceeded through a succession of views, which, although certainly a great improvement on that of the larger stream of which it is a gigantic tributary, did not, in my opinion, exhibit any peculiarities to induce me to add to the descriptions of previous writers. We proceeded, in the first place to the town of Louisville, in Ken- tucky, (a very improving town of some 40,000 inhabitants,) and thereafter to Cincinnati — now the largest city in the Western States of the American Union. STATE OF OHIO. 207 ut the shores the loncncss that there is ig and rever- ning on this It seems as when writing sail. During perceive any n the square ng to aid the sistance from )rleans stands isand inhabit- nder the hill, 1, as the place disreputables, character, amer touches mous for the ms of a band steaming on- various small d inhabitants, g of a slave,) spite the an- of the marks wo days' far- into which I is exchanging le somewhat itter river we ugh certainly vhich it is a peculiarities ers. dlle, in Ken- )itants,) and estern States CHAPTER X. , « The fall of waters and the song of birds, And hills that echo to the distant herds, Are luxuries excelling all the glare , The world can boost, and bor chief fav'rites share." COWPEE. Dickens and others have called Cincinnati a " beautiful city" ; and, while I am not prepared to admit the entire appropriateness of the appellation, I certainly think it a ery handsome town. The ex- traordinary rapidity of its progress is, however, the most important circumstance connected with its history. Even Mrs. TroUope would now scarcely recognise Cincinnati, so much has it changed and in- creased during 'the few years that have elapsed since it was made by her the chosen spot of her temporary sojourn ; and, judging of for- mer manners by her portraiture of them, those of the inhabitants of Cincinnati must have made equal progress with the buildings of the city. " Fifty years ago," said General Harrison, in a discourse delivered by him before the historical society of Ohio, " there was not a Chris- tian inhabitant within the bounds which now comprise the state of Ohio," (an extent of territory of nearly forty-four thousand square miles j) " and if, a few years anterior to that period, a traveller had been passing down the magnificent river which forms our southern boundary, he might not have seen in its whole course of eleven hun- dred miles a single human being — certainly not a habitation, nor the vestige of one calculated for the residence of man." And now what a change ! In 1790, the whole population of the state of Ohio did not exceed three thousand; in 1840 it had reached 1,519,467; and now, in the close of 1849, it cannot be much less than two millions. But the contrast between the past and present is best illustrated by confining attention to the town of Cincinnati. In 1796, Cincinnati was simply a small village of log cabins, consisting of some dozen wooden huts or houses ; and I saw, in the possession of an intelligent citizen, a sketch of it, representing it as it was in this condition. Now, within little more than half a century, it is a city of nearly 120,000 inhabitants ; and it is still, by births and emigration, in- creasing (as I was informed by professional gentlemen of influence and intelligence) at a rate of about ten thousand annually. The streets of Cincinnati are wide, regular, and at right angles with each other ; and were they somewhat better paved, it would be a great improvement. This is, however, a charge which may be generally advanced against the transatlantic cities. In some of thcm^ indeed. 208 CINCINNATI. good paving is not to be expected. Although named by the ambi- tious term city — of which term our American brethren seem much enamoured, (witness the city of Cleveland on the banks of Lake Erie, Sandusky city, &c.) — their right to the title is yet in embryo. To entitle them to the name of towns, much less of cities, they want these very necessary elements, houses and inhabitants ; and, inasmuch as there are few, if any, among them, so favourably situated as Cin- cinnati, centuries will probably elapse ere many of them have ex- panded beyond what would be denominated villages in the " Old Country." In such " cities to bo," it were unreasonable to expect wcU-paved streets ; but even in the generality of the larger towns, the paving is anything but good. If I except Boston and Philadel- phia, I did not find well-paved well-kept streets in any of the large towns in the American Union. I had thought, before leaving Scot- land, that my native city of Glasgow — which, in the extraordinary rapidity of its progress in size, beauty, and wealth, displays more of American growth than any city in Europe — enjoyed a somewhat un- enviable distinction in having the carriage-ways of many of its streets in great dis-repair. But Glasgow contrasts favourably in this respect with any of the large cities of the American Union ; and had the Cincinnati Jarvey who attempted to extort six dollars from myself and friend, for a two hours' drive to the Cincinnati Observatory, at- tempted to justify his extortion by an appeal to the badness of the streets and deepness of the ruts, he might have succeeded in making out something of a good special case. Cincinnati contains some good public buildings, such as the Ob- servatory, already casually noticed, which is built on a hill called Mount Adams, that rises immediately above the town, and which contains a telescope of large size and power imported from the conti- nent of Europe — the new Catholic Cathedral, of which the spire and portico are really fine, although the spire is perhaps somewhat too high — the College — and some others. But none of them are of such beauty or dimensions as to attract much of the attention of a traveller, who has seen the architectural beauties of Great Britain. But there has been very recently erected at Cincinnati a building which deserves that honourable and prominent mention should be made of it, were it only because it is intended to be, and will be, till some vaster scheme outrivals it, the largest hotel in that country, where monster hotels are the rule, and not the exception. When I visited Cincinnati in 1849, there was in course of erection a hotel, which, I was informed, would contain the almost incredible number of above five hundred separate bedrooms, besides eating and other rooms, proportionate to the extent of the sleeping accommodation. But hotel-keeping in America is on a very large scale, and the prac- tice among the merchants and traders of boarding at the hotels — CINCINNATI. 209 by the ambi- k seem much 3f Lake Erie, jmbryo. To 33, they want nd, inasmuch iiated as Cin- >em have ex- in the "Old ible to expect larger towns, and Philadel- of the large leaving Scot- extraordinary plays more of somewhat un- y of its streets in this respect ; and had the from myself )servatory, at- adness of the led in making as the Ob- a hill called n, and which om the conti- the spire and lomewhat too them are of ittention of a Treat Britain, iti a building on should be d will be, till that country, on. When I ition a hotel, iible number ig and other iommodation. and the prac- the hotels — ofttimes with their wives and families — and merely sleeping in their own houses, gives great encouragement to these mammoth estab- lishments. But my American friends must excuse my preferring the more secluded English system. No doubt, the hotels in tho United States are generally not only large^ but handsome, and hand- somely furnished, (although certainly neither superior in these re- spects to the ordinary hotels of England and Scotland, nor equal to what may be termed the first-class hotels of London, and some other of the principal towns of Britain;) and, the very reasonable amount of the charges considered, the supply of viands is usually unexcep- tionable in all the particulars of quantity, quality, and cooking. But, prejudice or no prejudice, I prefer the English system, where men are not so gregarious in their eating : and thus it was that, on my first visit to New York, I was attracted to the very superior hotel called " Delmonicos," simply by the remark of a friend that the matters of the table were there conducted more after the Eng- lish fashion — the cuisine being decidedly and excellently/ French. But to return to Cincinnati. There is perhaps nothing connected with the present position of the city, or the present development of the energies of its inhabitants, more creditable, or more worthy of remark, than the attention paid to the cause of education. The sys- tem of national education in the United States of America has much in it that calls for consideration from all who have the real well-be- ing of the great family of man truly at heart ; and great things may be expected from the effects it is calculated to produce on the rising generation. Actuated by a wise and an enlightened policy, the States of the American Union have recognised the necessity of com- bining mental improvement with material progress ; of making edu- cation keep pace with national wealth, and increase in civilisation at home go hand in hand with increase of power abroad: thus it is that there is a larger proportion of the population of the United States engaged in attendance on a course of instruction than is to be found in any other country on the face of the whole globe. All honour to them that such is the fact. This, however, is a subject too ambitious, and too extensive, to be discussed at length in a work like the present j but having had my attention prominently directed, while in Cincinnati, to the zealous and highly liberal manner in which the system is wrought out in that city, I cannot deny myself the satisfaction of here introducing a few remarks upon it. In the majority of the instances in which error is committed, in reasoning on matters connected with the United States of America, the mistake arises from confounding, or at least from not discrimi- nating, between the powers and constitution of the Federal Govern- ment, and the powers which the separate States have severally reserved to themselves. No doubt, the constitution and laws of the 18* 210 CINCINNATI. fr^ <'■ United States are declared to be suprcrae — so supreme, that no State law is valid which comes in competition with the constitution, or with any law of the United States ; and it has been well remarked by that distinguished American statesman, the Hon. Daniel Webster, that it is this very principle which makes the united laws of the General Government supreme, that constitutes the American consti- tution. Without this, the Union would be merely a confederacy. As a general theoretic constitutional principle, then, it may be affirmed of the constitution of the American republic, that the law of no state of the Union can be valid where it conflicts and is at variance with any law of the General Government ; and that, if at any time any question of interference should arise, the power of decision between the individual State and the Union is placed in the hands of the Supreme Court at Washington, which also has power to decide questions that may arise between one state and another. It will be at once seen how important is the existence both of this principle and of this power, and also that both are essentially neces- sary to the integrity, and indeed to the very existence, of the Union itself. But while the line of demarcation is in some cases not very well defined, and in others not much respected, there are, at the same time, matters and powers which the individual states have reserved to themselves, and with which the General Government has nothing to do. Of this the education of the people is one. There is, properly speaking, no general State education. Each state is at liberty to legislate on this subject as it pleases, and each state has legislated regarding it ; and, to the credit of our American brethren, let it be remembered that there is now no country in the world where the secular education of the people is better attended to than it is in the United States. I say secular, not because I can, of my own knowledge, say that the religious education of the people is neglected, but because that is left to each religious denomination it- self. In America, where there is no State church, all that the state governments do, in connexion with the public education of the people, is to provide schools, in which the children receive a secular educa- tion at the public expense, a portion of the local taxes being appro- priated for that purpose. Every state in the Union has some provision of that nature, although, as has been already mentioned, no one state has the power of controlling another, through the medium of the General Government or otherwise, in relation to this matter. In every state of the Union there is an ample provision for thie support of schools for the education of white children j and, while I of course cannot vouch for the truth of the statement of myself, I had it from several influential gentlemen of Louisiana, that in that, as well as in some other slave states, provision would have been made for the education of the children of the slaveS; had not CINCINNATI. 211 that no Stato nstitution, or rell remarked oiel Webster, laws of the erican consti- , confederacy. I, it may be that the law icts and is at id that, if at the power of placed in the so has power and another. I both of this intially neces- of the Union jascs not very re are, at the d states have ivemment has } one. There ich state is at ;ach state has lean brethren, in the world ended to than I can, of my the people is lomination it- that the state of the people, secular educa- } being appro- ion has some ly mentioned, , through the elation to this I provision for lildren; and, statement of iouisiana, that Q would have aveS; bad not so violent a spirit of opposition been excited, of late years, in tho south, by tho proceedings of the abolitionists of the north. It may seem a strange thing to say that the movements of northern states to abolish slavery should have operated as a preventive to the southern ones educating, in some degree, their black population ; but it is easy for one who ban personally witnessed the keenness of feeling that has been excited on this question of abolition, to see that such is likely to be the case. To judge from the language of some parties in the New England states, one would suppose that they considered all arguments and stratagems fair, provided only they tended to further the '^ abolition ticket.'^ Fas aut nefas seems the motto. In May or June, 1840, an instance occurred of the seizure of a box, despatched per rail from one of the slave states, (Kentucky,) directed to Philadelphia, which, when opened, was found to contain two live slaves, whom it was thus intended to remove from slavery to free- dom ; while the extreme among the anti-abolition parties of the south are as unscrupulous, and fully more extravagant, in their doings or language. To judge from the language of some of them, no punish- ment is too bad for the conduct of their opponents ; and to form an opinion from the remarks of nearly all of them, whether in public or in private, it would seem as if they would rather dismember the Federal Union than give way to the abolition movement — at least for some time to come. Even in Congress, such language is occa- sionally used, and the scenes to which its introduction leads are occasionally very strange ones for a legislative assembly. The follow- ing, taken from a report of proceedings in the United States* House of Representatives, on 13th December, 1849, will suffice for a speci- men. The scene occurred on the discussion of a resolution of Mr. Brown, of Mississippi, that the Hon. H. Cobb should be elected to the highly important office of speaker : — Mr. D r said that the resolution of Mr. Brown, in effect, called upon the Whigs to make an unconditional surrender. He would vote for anybody but a disumomst to occupy the chair. A VOICE. — There is no such person in the house. Mr. D R. — I think so. Voices. — Where is he? Mr. D R pointed to Mr. M . Mr. M DE. — If the gentleman charges me with being a dis- unionist, it is false ? Mr. J) R. — You are a liar. Immediately Mr. M de left his seat on the opposite side of the house, and rushed towards Mr. D r. The parties were not more than four feet apart, when members rushed between. There were cries of " Fight \" The sergeant-at-arms hurried down, with the mace of office in his hand. There were loud cries of " Order." 212 CINCINNATI. Lobby members mounted the side scenes. Mr. M- oned Mr. D r to follow him to the Kotunda. -do beck- There were motions of adjournment, midst a scene of the greatest possible Uirforder. But such scenes are very rare, and when they do occur, the words used cannot be regarded otherwise than as the dictations of temper and of haste. But the feelings which they display have been evinced even in the Upper House of the American Legisla- ture ; and that they were there enunciated and argued on with greuH decorum, dignity, and ability, only proves that they are deeper seated than some parties in America or in England are will- ing to admit Of this any one may satisfy himself, by perusing the : abiic'hed speeches of Messrs. Hayne and Webster, delivered in the United States* Senate in January, 1830. There the osten- sible subject of discussion was what is known in America as the '* nullification" question, or the right of an individual state to declare a law of tho General Government null and of no eiFect within that state's own particular limits or territory — a doctrine which Mr. Webster justly characterized as one which would reduce the Constitution to a mcxe confederacy. But although that was the ostensible subject, the whole tenor of the argument goes to prove the extreme dissonance that exists between the north and the south on the question of slavery. That this dissonance ever will lead to a dismemberment of ^he American Union, however, I am far from thinking. If there be one thing of a national cha- racter which an American values more than another, it is that he is a member of the Union. It is not that he is a citizen of New York or of Massachusetts, of Carolina or of Alabama, of Ken- tucky or of Ohio, but it is that, being such, he is a member of the Great American Union or Eepublic j and, without going the length of saying that a separation of the north from the south could not be made without in any way interfering with the peaceful relations between the two, I certainly would, were I an American, regard a dismemberment of the Union as the greatest misfortune that could befall my great and rising country. But of such an event I have little fear. The northern and southern states of the American Republic stuck together even at a time when the latter had the greatest and most obvious of all possible interests to secede from the cause of the former ; and it were well that the northern party should now remember this fact, when urging their southern brethren on this tender subject of slave emancipation. This, however, is a digressio.i. To return to the question of state education. In each of the states there is a provision for the secular education of the children of freemen, at the expense of the Btate itself. In some states the allowance is greater than in others, CLNCINNATI. 213 — do beck- There were ;est possible occur, the dictations of iisplay have Ban Legisla- iied on with at they are and are will- by perusing 3r, delivered •e the osten- erica as the ual state to of no effect —a doctrine rould reduce gh that was lent goes to =1 north and ionance ever I, howover, I aticucil cha- is that he izen of New ma, of Ken- 3mber of the g the length could not ful relations an, regard a e that could vent I have ) American ter had the secede from rthern party 3rn brethren question of sion for the pense of the n in others^ even taken in proportion to the population. The state of Connec- ticut has the honour of standing at the head of that list that would enumerate the states of the American Union according to their respective public provisions for the education of the people. With a population not exceeding 400,000, the sum annually devoted by the state to the support of the public schools is about £26,000 sterling ; and it is a fact worthy of record, were it only as a some- what singular coincidence, that while Connecticut is thus distin- guished above all the other states of the American Union for the large amount of its public school fund in proportion to the ] copula- tion, it is also the only one in the republic in which theatrical representations are prohibited by law. Diflerent parties will inter- pret these facts, and connect or separate them, according to their prepossessions for or against the theatre, and its uses or abuses. But the circumstance, that these two things should co-exist in the same state, is one which is worthy of being made prominent men- tion of. In 1849, an attempt was made in the local legislature of Connecticut to repeal the law prohibiting theatrical performances within its own territorial limits ; but the bill introduced for this purpose met with the most determined opposition — an opposition based not so much on objections to such amusements themselves, as on objections to that class of persons by whom they are usually supported, and whose increase in the state might be reasonably expected to follow an alteration in the law. The opposition pre- vailed, and the bill was almost unanimously rejected. But to return to the state provisions in the United States of America; for the education of the people. Maine, with a population of about 600,000 inhabitants, has per- manent school funds yielding an income of about 60,000 dollars, or above £12,000 sterling. Massachusetts, with a population con- siderably under a million, has public schools in which fully 80,000 children are annually educated at the public expense ; and the state of New York, with a population approaching closely to 3,000,000, (in 1845 it was 2,604,495,) has a common school fund, the aggre- gate capital of which amounts to about half a million atcrling ; while, from the general statistics of education in the state, it appears that, of the whole population, about four out of every thirteen were under in..truction during some part of the year, in the elementary and more advanced branches of English education, and in the claosical departments of the academies. Similar details might be given in reference to others of the states in the Union, ail going tc show that the education of the people has occupied, and continues' to occupy, that attention in America, to which it is so well entitled. But it is not my intention either to compare the provisions in the diflfercnt states, or to enter into 214 CINCINNATI. details with reference to any of them. My limits preclude, for the present, the possibility of my doing so. The object now is to illustrate, by the mention of a few indisputable facts, the general truth of the remark, that the state governments of the American Union have shown themselves most wisely provident, and alive to the best interests of their great republic, in the ample provisions they have made for placing a sound elementary education within the reach of every free inhabitant they contain. The words "wisely provident" are here used advisedly, for, if there be a country in the world in which national provisions for education are more necessary, or more likely to be productive of beneficial re- sults, than another, it is in the American Union. The Constitu- tion of the American confederation appeals to the understanding. It is in the conviction of the thinking and intelligent mass, that it is the constitution best adapted for the country, and for the promotion of the general good, that its stability and permanence depend. And beside this, the American Union is yearly receiving into its bosom vast masses from the old countries of Europe, more particularly from England, Scotland, and Ireland. Many of these emigrants, no doubt, add to the intelligence, as they do to the population and wealth of the far off land of their adoption ; but it is also true, and lamentably so, that many of them carry to America little save their poverty and their ignorance. If qmi- grants of this class are to add much to the real strength and pros- perity of the nation, they, or at least their children, must be educated. To use the words of an esteemed professional friend in Cincinnati, (himself one of the truest and best friends of educa- tion to be found in any land,) whose letter on the subject is before me, this class of emigrants require not only to be Americanized, but to be in a great measure enlightened, civilized, and educated, ere they can be of much real benefit in assisting towards the on- w:.rd progress of the land to which they have emigrated. While the general attention paid to the education of the people has thus been creditably great in almost the whole of the states, the state of Ohio, notwithstanding its comparitavcly recent occu- pation and rapid growth, has not been behind in the race, as the following few statistics, with reference to the common schools of the town of Cincinnati, will sufiiciently prove. In reference to the educational system pursued in its common schools, Cincinnati is divided into twelve districts. In each of these districts there is a school-house, having a male and also a female department, with a principal and assistant teachers presid- ing over each. The principal teachers over the male department have fifty dollars a month of salary, the assistants somewhat less. Tho principal teachers of the female departments have twenty- preclude, for ect now is to , the general he American and alive to le provisions cation within The words f there be a sducation are beneficial re- Che Constitu- iderstanding. it mass, that , and for the [ permanence irly receiving Europe, more lany of these ey do to the doptionj but tiem carry to ice. If qmi- gth and pros- must be onal friend in ids of educa- ect is before Lmericanized, md educated, ^ards the on- ited. Df the people of the stutcs, recent occu- race, as the on schools of its common In each of and also a chcrs presid- dcpartmcnt me what less. Iiavc twcnty- e CINCINNATI. 215 eight dollars a month, the assistants from sixteen to twenty dol- lars. In some of these district schools German is taught in con- nection with English ; and as a large proportion of the population of Cincinnati is German, (a fact evinced by the numerous Ger- sign-boards and inscriptions you see as yon go along the streets in certain parts of the town,) these schools are certainly a peculiarly interesting feature in the Cincinnati school system, and strongly illustrate the liberal and enlightened spirit under which they are conducted. Bf^sides the twelve district schools, there is a central school, established in November 1848, for the farther education of such children above ten years of age as are found on examination to have a " competent knowledge of reading, writing, spelling, Eng- lish grammar, modern geography, mental and practical arithmetic, history of the United States, mental algebra or written algebra, to equations of the second degree." In the common schools the usual branches of an elementary education are taught, while in the central school the education is of a more advanced character, and includes Latin and Greek. As an adjunct to the whole, there is an orphan asylum school. The total number of pupils who attended the district schools of Cincinnati between October 1847 and October 1848 was 27,316, being an increase of above five thousand on the year previous. The above details, which are mainly taken from the nineteenth annual report of the trustees and visitors of the common schools of the city council of Cincinnati for the year ending June SO, 1848, prepaicd under the authority of the board, by my able and excellent friend Bellamy Storer, Esq., (some time corresponding secretary, and last year the president of the board of trustees and visitors,) will sufliciently show that the general commendation of the school system of Cincinnati, with which I set out, was not without ample and sufficient foundation. That the efforts thus making, throughout nearly the whole of the American Union, to increase the knowledge of the general body of the people, may continue tv prove eminently successful, must be the anxious and ardent prayer of every well-wisher of +ho great family of man. One of the greatest businesses carried on in Cincinnati is the killing, curing, and packing of hogs. More than 400,000 hogs were packed in Cincinnati up to January 1848, for the season 1847-8 ; and for about two months of each year, the herds of these aaimals driven along certain of the streets leading from the river are almost continuous. Indeed, the statistics of the pork trade of the Western States, Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana, are so extraordinary as to be scarcely credible to those who have not seen 210 CINCINNATI. the evidence of its extent. In 1847, the number of hogs brought to market from these three states was fully seven millions. But the fact is, that the states above mentioned are peculiarly adapted for the culture of Indian corn, (called in America " corn " par ex- cellence;) and this food supplies not only the cheapest, but the best means for fattening these useful animals. Of the price paid for hogs in Cincinnati and its neighbourhood, I have no note taken when on the spot. But the price cannot, for very obvious reasons, be materially different from what it is in the immediately adjoining state of Kentucky; and in or about Louisville, the largest city of that state, and itself a great market for the killing or curing of hogs, the prices varies from one dollar and a half (about 6s. 6d.) to two dollars and a half, (10s. 6d.,) according to the weight — animals weighing 1751b. bringing the smaller sum, and those weighing above 2501b. the larger. The circumstances thus alluded to have led to the settlement at Cincinnati, and also in the town of Louisville, of sundry emigrants from the Emerald Isle, who, in these towns and their neighbour- hoods, exercise the trade and calling with which they were most familiar in " their own green isle." But it is not only Paddy who indulges in the hog-curing calling in these parts ; a large proportion of the German settlers are engaged in the same trade ; and it must have been in this portion of the Union that the following case oc- curred. A German settler lost several valuable hogs, and, finding some animals exactly answering their general description in the pos- session of an American or English neighbour, he claimed them as his lost favourites, and went to law in vindication of his right to them, on his claim being disallowed. The proofs on both sides were balanced and conflicting, and the lawyers were at tLeir wits' end, when it occurred to the advocate of the German claimant to demand the recall of his client's son, who had been one of the witnesses. On his recall, the counsel asked him if he was in the habit of calling his pokers, and how he called them. The answer was afl&rmative, and that he called them in German, and they answered to his call. Thereon the judge and jury adjourned to the defendant's hog-yard ; and on the German vociferating his war-cry, thepig3 he had claimed, and only those out of a very large flock, responded to his call. It is scarcely necessary to say that this piece of real evidence decided the question at issue. It is said of a certain great king that he charac- terised German as the language most adapted to horses, but this pro- bably was the first instance of its over being supposed to be best suited to the capacity of pigs. The extensive trade in the rearing and killing of pigs, is generally supposed to be somewhat adverse to a spirit of cleanliness, and per- haps it may be partly owing to this that Cincinnati suffered so greatly RAIL TO SANDUSKY. 217 logs brought illions. But iarly adapted )} orn par ex- pest, but the ;hbourhood, I 56 cannot, for b it is in the >ut Louisville, 'or the killing a half (about to the weight n, and those settlement at dry emigrants eir neighbour- ley were most ily Paddy who rge proportion I ) and it must )wing case oc- s, and, finding on in the pos- dmed them as his right to oth sides were eir wits' end, int to demand itnesses. On of calling his firmative, and to his call. t's hog-yard; had claimed, lis call. It is decided the lat ho charac- but this pro- icd to bo best 3, is generally ncss, and pcr- rcd so greatly from cholera about the time of the visit in question in 1849. The epidemic had begun to be felt, but had not reached its height when I was in the city ; but there is now before me a letter, dated 80th July 1849, written to me by an influential professional gentleman in Cincinnati — one who interests himself constantly and warmly in everything that conduces to the well-being of his fellows, in which he says — " Since you left us, our city has been terribly scourged j we have lost nearly five thousand of our people by the pestilence that has everywhere prevailed." He adds, that the ravages of cholera were even then prevalent, although " present indications are decidedly favourable to the rapid decline;" while I find it stated in a Cincin- nati newspaper of a subsequent date, that above 6000 had perished, and that there were fully 2500 houses in the city then unoccupied and to let. It appears that the greatest mortality was for the thirty- one days ending 16th July 1849, and that the daily average of deaths during that time was one hundred and seventeen. The largest proportion of deaths was among the foreign population, the compara- tive numbers being, of emigrants 70.1 — Americans, 22.6 — the dif- ference being no doubt caused mainly by the fact of the new-comers being as yet unaccustomed to the climate, and ignorant what food to take and what to avoid. Leaving Cincinnati at the somewhat inconvenient hour of five o'clock in the morning, a ride of about sixteen hours in railway cars brings you to the city of Sandusky, on the shores of Lake Erie. The distance travelled is only 217 miles; and if the time occupied in the transit would seem to indicate an unusually slow speed for railway travelling, it must be remembered that this line (for it is literally one line) of rails, runs through a comparatively unpeopled country : and although one of its termini is at the populous improving town of Cincinnati, the other is at Sandusky, which, although specially re- joicing in the ambitious title of Sandusky city, is nevertheless only a a sparsedly built village, containing a population which does not ex- ceed 2500 inhabitants. In making this journey I heard sundry sneers, on the part not merely of Old but of New Englanders, on the subject of Western railways, particularly when the career of the train was stopped, and the steam-whistle was loudly sounded, until intru- sive cattle or hogs were frightened off the line. I could not, how- ever, sympathise to any extent in the severity of my English or Yankee friends on the subject of ^Vcstern railways. Surely it is better to have one line of railway, and cars travelling on it at the rate of fifteen miles an hour, than no line of railway at all ; and if the profits of working the railway from Cincinnati to Sandusky only suffice, in the course of a few years, to the accumulation of wealth sufficient to lay down a railway of more English-like capabilities and 218 SANDUSKY CITY. pretensions, the parties who own the present works will be entitled to have the laugh quite the other way. An American railway car has been too frequently described, to render description on my part either necessary or likely to be inter- esting. The main feature is the absence of diiFerent classes of car- riages, it being seemingly assumed by the directors, that in a coun- try of republican equality, every one must be ready to adopt the game mode, and be content with the same accommodation, when travelling. For myself, I do not complain much of the arrangement, although it appeared to me then, as it docs now, that it was nothing short of downright tyranny. Because A cannot, or will not, pay two dollars for his seat in a car, why should B be compelled (for it amounts to compulsion when there is no other mode of transit, or none equally good,) to be content with the comforts and accommo- dation that can be purchased for one dollar ? This, however, is but one of the many developments of that tyranny of the many, which unquestionably prevails to a very large extent in the United States of America. For the present the government is in the hands of the Whigs, and I should think that every true friend of the land of stars and stripes would wish that it were long to continue so. The grand policy of that government is decidedly, and almost necessarily, conservativ^e; accordingly, in private, some of the most intelligent men belonging to the Whig party, hesitate not to acknowledge that the real danger which the federal constitution has to dread, arises from the too rapid growth of the democratic principle — from the tendency everywhere observable of referring all power to the mass of the people — of taking every opportunity of appealing to " the people,'' and flattering their prejudices by making them the source of all power. For an illustration of the operation of this democra- tic tendency, I was indebted to an intelligent military officer of tlio United States — a gentleman who had held the rank of general in the Mexican army, up to the time the United States declared war against that feeble sister republic, and who now holds a high place in one of the military colleges in the United States. He mentioned that, in one of the Western States — Louisiana, I think — much ex- citement prevailed at the time, in consequence of its having been mooted, as a weapon of popularity, to have the local judges annually elected, and by the voice of the general body of citizens. The ques- tion had been debated in the local legislature, and the resolution there come to was to leave the question of a change to bo determined by the majority of the electors themselves. Once mooted, tlio representatives of the people would not face the odium and unpopu- larity of deciding it in such a way as excluded the people from power. Could anything more strongly show the tyranny of the vox as 11 be entitled described, to jT to be inter- lasses of car- at in a coun- to adopt the iation, when arrangement, was nothing will not, pay pelled (for it 3f transit, or ad accomrao- wever, is but many, which Jnited States 1 hands of the f the land of nue so. The 3t necessarily, >st intelligent lowledge that dread, arises le — from the to the mass ding to " the n the source this deraocra- officcr of the of general in declared war a high place le mentioned k — much ex- having been igcs annually The qucs- ho resolution )c doterminod mooted, the and unpopu- people from ny of the vox AMERICAN DEMOCRACY. 219 populi, when all consideratious are made to give way to it? If there be one question in government better settled than another by the wisdom of ages, it is that the judges who are to administer the laws, who are to hold the balance of justice, should be elected for life, without consideration of party or of party politics, and made as independent as possible of all considerations of a political character. But the above is only one of many illustrations of the manner in which the really judicious statesmen in America seem trammelled and gagged by considerations of policy and popularity. Again and again, and in every quarter, was I struck with the different tone of sentiment which pervaded the remarks of my intelligent Whig friends in private, as compared with what they said in public. It would seem that, in private, they universally spoke their own thoughts, while in public the one ruling consideration was what might or would be thought by the mass of the people. This is surely to be deeply regretted as fraught with evil tendencies, particularly in a country which is annually receiving into its bosom vast numbers of European emigrants, most if not all of whom are drawn from the most democratic portions of European society. It were well, I think, that the wise and good of the United States were to reflect more on this important fact, — viz. that the elements of society, drawn by them annually from the old countries, have many of them a strong leaning in favour of levelling principles, even before they set their feet on the shores of the great republic. It may be — it is — no doubt true, as stated in the annual report of the Cincinnati schools for 1848, now before me, that America must, " for many years to come, be the home of thousands who will have left Europe to escape oppression." But it is also true, that the thousands whom such causes have moved to emigrate to America are outnumbered by the advocates for license, the pretended victims of an imaginary oppression. Judging from the foolish paragraphs relative to European affairs, which so often deform the pages of the newspaper press in the United States, there seems to be a great appetite for the intelligence regarding the " tyrannical governments of Europe." No absurdity, on this subject, seems too gross or too extravagant for the popular taste. The rhapsodies of some of the American newspapers on the subject of the late outbreak in Ireland, exceeded in violence and absurdity of falsehood even the most lying effusions of The Nation. The ravings of such men as Smith O'Brien, Mitchell, Meagher, et hoc genus omne, were lauded as the height of political wisdom, and the utterers themselves held forth to the public as patriots and martyrs, instead of being simply and truly characterized as charlatans, impostors, or political empirics. This may be all very well as regards the sale of a newspaper, and the mass of the United States' public may be forgiven many widely erro- neous notions regarding England and Euglishmen, and English free- 220 CLEVELAND. doni, when they have to gather their opinions from such impuro sources, or from the equally inaccurato statements of the renegade sons of Great Britain whc take refuge on thair shores. But the wiso and dispassionate of the republic will do well to remember, that while they are a republic — and while a large element in a republican form of government is the democratic principle — there are foreign ingre- dients annually mixed with the native mass, which have all a ten- dency to strengthen the principle referred to. Washington — the truly great Washington — although a republican, was very far from being a democrat; no one saw more clearly, or inculcated more strongly than he did, the necessity of discipline and subordination, to insure the continued prosperity of that Union which he was so in- strumental in forming. Mais revenons a nos moutons — to return to Sandusky City, which affords a fair specimen of the village cities of the United States of America. Standing on a bay which opens into Lake Erie — and communicating with New York, on the one hand, by means of the lakes, canals, and railways, and with New Orleans on the other, by means of the Cincinnati railway, the Ohio, and the Mississippi, Sandusky seems destined, at ono period or another, to assume the magnitude which is presupposed in the term " city f but for the present it is but a village, and not a very large village either, con- taining about 2500 inhabitants, and having only a few streets, or rather roads, which are destined to be streets when the interstices or vacant spaces have been occupied by buildings. Leaving Sandusky early in the morning by the steamer for Buffalo, you arrive early nest morning at the latter place On going down the lake, the steamer touches at Cleveland ; and I took advantage of the two hours occupied by " coaling" at that place, to visit the town, and was very much pleased that I had done so : for although there is, in the broad road-like streets and sparsedly- sprinkled buildings of Cleveland, much to include it in the same category with Sandusky, there is unquestionably great taste dis- played in the general laying-out of the town. The streets are very broad ; they are also at right angles one with another, and well planted with trees for shade. The present population of Cleveland numbers about twelve thousand. It boasts a medical college, which, although a recent establishment, is represented as being in a very flourishing condition ; and, like most of the small towns of America, Cleveland rejoices in a number of churches — above twenty ; a number which seems unusually great, considering the comparative smallness of the population. Cleveland also enjoys the advantage of a very fine harbour on Lake Erie, which harbour is protected by two piers jutting out into the inland sea. It also communicates with the Ohio, on the other side of the state, by mch impure the renegade But the wise jr, that while iblican form )reign ingre- ive all a ten- iingtpQ — the ery far from ilcated more irdination, to le was so in- City, which led States of Erie — and neans of the 1 the other, Mississippi, ) assume the but for the either, con- V streets, or Qterstices or steamer for place On and I took that place, ad done so : i sparsedly- in the same t taste dis- lets are very er, and well f Cleveland 3al college, as being in all towns of lies — above lering the also enjoys Lch harbour . It also le state, by THE LAKES. 221 moans of a canal ; and being thus connected, by direct lines of water communication, with the Mississippi on the one side, and with New York and Canada on the other, and situated in the midst of a great wheat-producing country, there is everything to justify the expectation that Cleveland in Ohio, will, in course of time, attain the position of a very important, and the appearance of a very handsome, city. Lake Erie, although standidg only fourth amongst the American lakes in point of magnitude, is fully entitled to the appellation I have above given it — namely, that of an inland sea. Its extreme length is 240 miles, and its average Tidth is nearly 40 miles. The larger lakes are — Lake Superior, which is 420 miles long, and of an average breadth of about 100 miles ; Lake Michigan, which is 340 miles long, by about 60 miles broad ; and Lake Huron, which is 270 miles long, with an average width of about 70 miles. These gigantic fresh-water lakes are connected together throughout their whole extent ; and the reflection that the river Niagara, to whose stupendous falls I was now rapidly approaching, formed the only natural outlet for the vast body of water (about one half the fresh water on the whole surface of the globe) which is contained within the areas of Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie, deepened the imprcssiveness of the feelings with which I now approached a scene that had ofttlmes been present to my imagination from the days of my boyhood, floating among the ideas of my mind in a sort of misty, dreamy indistinctness. The impression that I now stood within a few miles of the great fall was paramount to every other ; and only stopping for a few hours in the bustling, busy, town of Bufi'alo, (which is situated in the state of New York, and forms, as it were, the very centre of the canal and lake navigation, and railroad communication,) so as to enable me to take a rapid drive through it — thereby seeing enough to justify the afl&rmation, that the town of Bufiiilo is a rising, rapidly improving city, plea- santly situated on the borders of Lake Erie, at the head of the river Niagara — I proceeded by rail to the village and Falls of Niagara. The distance is only about eleven miles, and may be traversed either by railway, along the banks of the river Niagara, or down the river itself by means of the steamer. I chose the former mode, but a comparison of notes with intelligent sccTicry- loving friends satisfied me that the latter was the best ; and when I next approach Niagara from the side of Lake Erie, it is my in- tention to do so by means of the steamboat. On arrival at the village, or place of debarkation, the first visit will naturally be to the world-renowned . 19* 222 FALLS OF NIAGARA. ■;.| FALLS OF NIAGARA ; and, strange as tlie remark may at first sight appear, I would add, that the sooner this first visit is paid, and over, the better. Those who have visited the scene will understand the observation. The first few minutes of the contemplation was to me positively pain- ful, and left an oppressiveness on my spirits for all the rest of the day. It was not that I was disappointed — that I could not say ; and yet the cataracts were something very different from what i had conceived them to be. But the preconception and the reality were so totally unlike, that comparison of the one with the other was completely out of the question ; and that reality was so great, that disappointment was equally precluded from my feelings. I felt oppressed, however, by the first view ; and the companion who accompanied me acknowledged, as we sat together in the evening listening to the roar, that such also was his experience. It was with a feeling of relief that I turned away from the scene ; and it was not till I had been at Niagara for some days, and had visited these glorious Falls at all hours, and for hours together, that I felt from the contemplation of them that sotisfaction (I cannot think of a better world) which I had anticipated. Oniawgara, or the Thunder of Waters, is the expressive Indian name for hese cataracts. Before visiting them, I had seen many views, and read many descriptions of them, and attempted to form some adequate idea of their dimensions and appearance by studying their statistics. But although I thereby acquired some knowledge of the feelings with which the view had inspired others, and ascer- tained the enormous number of tons of water that continually pour over this precipice of 160 feet high, and that have continued cease- lessly so to do, probably, since creation first began, and while gene- ration after generation of men have been disappearing from the face of the globe ; I cannot say that such studies in any measure pre- pared me for the scene I actually witnessed. For this reason I will not attempt any detailed description of the Falls, or of their con- comitant rapids and whirlpool, but content myself with noting down such suggestions, as to the mode of seeing them, as may spare somo after visitor a little of the unnecessary trouble I encountered myself, and aid him in making the best use of his time; to which I will add on or two remarks as to those points which appeared to me to form the distinctive characteristics of the magnificent scene. These, the most stupendous cataracts in the world, lie partly in the state of New York and partly in the British possessions of Ca- nada. Near the middle of the river, but rather on the American side of it; stands Goat Island — or^ as it ought to be called^ Iris Is- FALLS OF NIAGARA. 223 would add, ter. Those ition. The tivcly pain- rcst of the Id not say ; om what i the reality ;h the other as so great, feelings, I panion who the evening 36. It was me; and it had visited , that I felt lot think of 3sivo Indian seen many )ted to form by studying knowledge and ascer- nually pour Qued cease- while genc- om the face easure pre- jason I will ■ their con- oting down spare some 3red myself, h I will add me to form e partly in ions of Ca- e American led; Iris Is- land, that being the name assigned to it by its proprietor, and to which it is well entitled, ,by the numerous spray-created rainbows that play in the vicinity of it. This island contains about seventy acres of land, and by it the river is divided at the Fall, and for a considerable space above it — the main body of the stream passing down on the south-western side, and being precipitated over what is called the Canadian, or (in allusion to its shape) " The Crescent or Horse-shoe Fall"; and the lesser portion passing on the north-eastern side of Iris Island, and falling over the American Fall. But the waters falling over the American Fall are divided previous to, and at the point of their descent. After passing the upper end of Iris Island, they are divided by what is called Bath Island, and by some smaller ones ; and at the point where they are precipitated over the cliff, they are separated by a very small island, called in the guide- books Prospect Island, but named by my informant by the more euphonious name of Luna Island. The comparatively small portion of waters which falls over between Goat Island and Prospect Island is known as the " Centre Cascade" ; and this fall is from the highest point of the precipice, the height of the descent here being 162 feet, while the height of the American Fall, which lies between Prospect Island and the state of New York, is 160 feet — the Horse-shoe Fall being of lesser altitude by a few feet. The above general description will be suflScient to show that these falls, to be properly seen, must be viewed not only from below as well as above, but from both sides of the river ; and, as there is ample accommodation for the reception of travellers on both sides, much is said and written as to which is the best side whence to view the falls. The guide-books being chiefly manufactured in the United States, of course, and with a natural enough preference, generally say all they can to induce the traveller to take up his abode at Nia- gara village, on the New York side. I did so, and 1 certainly have every reason to write, with unqualified eulogy, of the comfort and attention felt and experienced in the Cataract Hotel. But the fact is indisputable, that by far the finest view of the falls is that obtained from the other side of the river. From the door or from the win- dows of Clifton House, which is the name of the principal hotel on the Canada side, the view is grand in the extreme — infinitely more so than any other general view that can be taken of these stupen- dous cataracts. In front lies the great Horse-shoe Fall, with its sea of waters continuously pouring over the precipice into a caldron of scarcely known depth, whence a constant cloud of spray springs up, encircling, and sometimes obscuring, the fall itself. On the left is the scarcely less magnificent American Fall, hurrying onward — the W'it'^rs discharging themselves over the precipice they have to encoun- ter, as if impatient to join the kindred waters from which they have 224 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 1 been so lately separated, and regardless of the obstacles which in- terpose to resist their doing so j while between the two there sparkles in the sunbeams the noble Centre Cascade — a full which would bo in itself an object of attraction and gratification in any other prc< eence than that of its monster brethren. For this reason — namely, because it places constantly before h'r, observation the most imposing general view of the falls, and also because the more, and the oftcner, and the longer, these falls are viewed, the more will they fill the mind of the contemplative visitor —I advise the traveller not to follow my example, by taking up his abode exclusively on the American side, but, after living two or three days on that side, (whence Goat Island, &c., is alone approachable,) to cross over and take up his residence for at least two or three days longer on the Canadian side. 1 have already said that, despite the fact that the Falls of Niagara had been the subject of my dreams almost from boyhood, and not- withstanding my having read at least half-a-dozen attempts at de- scription of them, I found, when I stood in view of these cataracts, that I really had not hod any preconception of them whatever. Thus I feel it will ever be. The only thing that struck me on this sub- ject was, that whereas, in my preconceptions, I had surrounded the Falls of Niagara with many elements of grandeur, separate and in- dependent of the mere waterfall itself; when I stood on the spot, when expectation and imagination had been swallowed up in the reality, it was the falls — the falls alone — that occupied my attention and filled up the view. Above the falls, and at the point where the sea tumbles over the precipice, there is no mountainously grand scenery to attract or distract the attention. The broad and deep, but clear and rapid river flows smoothly along . oni the waters of Lake Erie, with a hasty but unbroken current, until it begins to be divided by the islands above the falls, as it approaches the brow, as it were, of the mountain ridge on which it is flowing. Before being so di- vided, the river is nearly two miles broad. After being divided, and as it approaches the upper end of Goat Island, the channel contracts, and the waters accelerate their course. Down the rapids they hasten, boiling and agitated, as with a consciousness of the fearful plunge that lies before them ; but still preserving enough of their calmness and continuity, as to sweep over the verge of the precipice in one unbroken and continuous stream. The great depth of water, at the point where it commences its fearful perpendicular descent, ere it breaks into crisping foam — which it does not do until it has fallen some twenty or thirty yards — is powerfully exhibited in the sea-green colour of the water about the centre of the Horse-shoe Fall. Indeed this sea-like colour, and the continuity (so to speak) of the wrtca themselves, at the point where the descent commences, form two of FALLS OF NIAGARA. 225 jlcs which in- thero sparkles ich would bo iny other pre- tly before h'r, 'alls, and also bese falls are plativo visitor taking up Lis g two or three ipproaeliablc,) or three days ,11s of Niagara lood, and not- tempts at dc- lese cataracts, liatcvcr. Thus on this sub- irroundcd the parate and in- on the spot, cd up in the I my attention ►int where the nously grand and deep, but iters of Lake to be divided w, as it were, being so di- ; divided, and uel contracts, s they hasten, earful plunge heir calmness ccipice in one water, at iho escent, ere it it has fallen the sea-green Fall. Indeed )f the wrtca form two of the facts connected with the Falls of the Niagara that now present themselves most vividly to my recollection. Shortly below the falls, the depth of the water is about 250 feet ; but there, and for some miles, and down as far as Lewistown or Queenstown, the river is greatly pent in. I could not learn that any attempt had ever been made, or could be made, for ascertaining the exact depth of the river at or about the centre of the Crescent Fall, ere it throws itself from the top of the precipice, but the green colour alluded to shows that it must be very great. The Indians had a superstition that the genius who presided over the Falls of Niagara required the annual sacrifice, at this his shrine, of at least two human victims. Ere the Eed man lost this part of his once broad but now contracted possessions, the supposed merciless Spirit of the Cataract was scarcely ever disappointed or defrauded of his victims. At least two human beings have annually passed into eternity, by disappearing over the falls, for as far back as any annals of these cataracts exist. Since the white man succeeded to the proprietorship, the number of such victims has certainly not dimin- ished. His habitual enterprize and daring have multiplied them greatly ; and many are the harrowing accounts of such fearful acci- dents to be found in the guide-books, or to be heard from the narra- tives of the guides, who here, as in all such pLces of general resort, haunt and occasionally annoy you. Even about the time of my visit, and within a few days of it, an accident occurred, second in point of lamentable, harrowing incident to none of those which have pre- ceded it. Having stood on the very point whence the victims were precipitated, and that immediately before the accident took place, and having the whole of terrific event graphically present to my mental vision, the scene has often since recurred to my recollection — par- ticularly during the hours of midnight — with a startling vividness and personality which is excessively painful. The lamentable cir- cumstance to which I refer was shortly as follows. Names are re- pressed in the narrative, because, unlikely though it be that this book shall fall into the hands of any one connected with the victims, it is still a possible thing that it should do so; and I would run the hazard of giving pain where I could avoid the possibility of doing so. Besides, names are not necessary to give touching effect to such an incident, which is one of recent occurrence and well known, at least in the localities where it occurred, or which it affected. A party of pleasure, composed chiefly of the members of two fami- lies about to be more closely united by intermarriage, had visited the Falls of Niagara from the New York side, and were enjoying the superb view of them to be witnessed from Iris Island and the neighbouring little Prospect Island. One of the party, a little girl 226 FALLS OF NIAGARA. of about twelve years old, with the giddiness natural to her years, had gone too near the water and the precipice, and had been repeat- edly called back. On repeating the inconsiderateness, a young gen- tleman, the affianced of the sister of the child, followed her to bring her back, and having caught her by the dress, playfully attempted to frighten her, by holding her forwards towards the water, as if he would drop her into the river. Fearful to narrate, the part of the dress by which he held the child gave way in his grasp, the child fell into the hurrying, eddying, tossing waters. In a vain hope of saving her, or maddened to desperation by the scene, the youth sprang after her, and both were instantly launched into eternity, by being thrown with great force over the precipice into the boiling caldron below. It is scarcely necessary to add that the dead bodies were not found for some days afterwards, and then at or about the whirlpool, a considerable distance down the river. Many such incidents have occurred through the temerity of visitors at Niagara. Some years ago a young lady lost her life by going too near, and falling over the precipice on the other side of the river ; and the unfortunate event is chronicled, on a board exhibited by one of those persons who earn a precarious livelihood in the vicinity of the falls, in lines strongly suggestive of the fact of how nearly, in this world, that which is ludicrous approaches, if it be not allied to, that which is sublime. The doggrel inscription sets out with a compliment to the whole race of womankind^ and is in these words — " Woman, most beauteous of the human race, Be cautious of a dangevous place, For here Miss at tioenty-three . Was kunched into e opportunity } appearance, THE ST. LAWRENCE. 233 so that my report may be summed up in this : — That, although I had the same fault to advance against the general paving that I have stated against some of its republican neighbours, and to complain that some of the trottoirs or side-walks were of wood, I thought King- ston, on the whole, a pleasantly situated, handsome-looking place, having somewhat more of a finished town-like appearance than American towns of the same size generally exhibit. The Town Hall, in connexion with which is the Post Ofl&ce, a massive building, and the French cathedral, the English church, and some other public buildings, have some pretensions to architectural beauty. Kingston stands at the commencement of the river St. Lawrence, which forms the outlet of Lake Ontario. As therefore the Niagara forms the feeder, and the St. Lawrence, as it were, the waste-pipe, of the same lake, it would have been more natural, and it might have been as well, had the two rivers, or rather the two parts of the same river, been called by the same name, distinguishing their position by the terms upper and lower. But it were too late to try to change this now. It were difficult to name any two rivers in the world, naturally connected with each other, with which such an experiment could not more easily be made. The Falls of the Niagara, and the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence, have conferred upon each of the streams in which these celebrities arc to be seen, a reputation which precludes the possibility of a change of name as regards either of them. Beautiful St. Lawrence ! others have expressed themselves disap- pointed with thee; but writing only as I found and felt, and without reference to the impressions even of more gifted travellers, I am constrained to confess that, in no part of my wanderings by sea or by land — the unapproachable Niagara alone excepted — did I feel more interest and excitement than I did when sailing, often shooting, down the waters of thine arrowy steam. The variety of the islands, which,^ although named The Thousand, are said to be in reality of much larger number; the racing speed at which the river runs, with the occasional boiling and blustering of the rapids, and the also oc- casional transition from narrows to lakes, and from lakes to narrows again, give an interest and a variety to the sail, which is exceedingly pleasing. True, the islands are none of them high, and some of them are covered only with stunted brushwood. But then they are in constant succession, and most of them are clothed with trees of very graceful foliage. True, also, thp, river has lost the green clear- ness it possessed when it passed under the world-renowned name of the Niagara, or while its waters formed part of the waters of Lake Ontario, and it has now assumed a browned and compai-atively tur- gid aspect. But then it is still full of activity : it toils, tosses, and tumbles like a thing of life. Often it is difficult to understand what 20» 2U TUK ST. LAWRENCE. all the toil, trouble, and turmoil is about. Like a numerous class of would-be politicians, whose characteristic features are graphically touched off by Wordsworth in the line — " Hurried and hun'yiiig, volatile and loud," the St. Lawrence seems resolved to make the most of everything — to make a vast noise and bluster as well without as when there is occasion, and to keep up the excitement even long after all apparent cause for it has ceased. Shooting the rapids I Who has not heard of the Rapids of the St. Lawrence, or read in the days of boyhood, when the taste for the marvellous is keen, of the danger and excitement of "shooting" them ? But the danger may fairly be considered as one of the things passed away. The excitement, however, still remains. And it was exciting and interesting enough to feel the gigantic steamer steadying herself, as it were, before entering the tossing turbulent waters of the Long Sault Rapids ; aud then hurrying along and down through their boiling billows with the speed of a sea-bird. In shooting these rapids on this occasion, the steamer had to pass a sailing vessel bound for 3Iontreal or Quebec, which was going down at the same time, and for a while it seemed as if a collision was almost inevitable. Both vessels required to keep a particular channel, where the rocks were covered by the greatest depth of water, which channel was indi- cated by the particular appearance of the boiling of the water. But the sailing-vessel did not seem to " answer her helm" readily ; and, had not the steamer done so very sharply, a fearful collision must have taken place. Indeed, it is only from insufficiency of steering that accidents are likely to occur, and the very rapidity of the r' amer's motion gives her what is, I believe, technically called good b erage-way. At all events, the Indian pilot who steered the steamer Lady of the Lake down the rapids of the St. Lawrence, did not seem to think there was anything of danger in his occupation j and if he was not one of the best judges of the amouui of the danger, he cer- tainly ought to have been so. The jgroup called the Thousand Islands commences about ten miles below Kingston, and extends for a distance of upwards of fifty miles ; and the wanderings of the steamer among the various channels seemed sometimes strange enough — creating ofter much of what may be termed lake scenery; as it was not till wc seemed to be almost run- ning on shore, that the channel through which we were to pass opened to our view. An hour or so after leaving the islands, the Lady of the Lake shot into the mouth of the river Oswegatchie, and moored at the harbour of the town of Ogdensburg, which stands at the mouth of this dark-coloured stream of unpronounceable name. As the American steamer British Empire, which was to convey me "Oh, 1 wants '. "Bi taste." "Y( rally tl this coi of the tobaccc He ous class of graphically irerytlnng— hen there is all apparent ipids 01 tho taste for the " shooting" »f the things And it was er steadying nt waters of )wn through ooting these vessel bound 3 same time, b inevitable, re the rocks ael was indi- tvatcr. But tadily; and, llision must of steering iity of the called good the steamer id not seem and if he ger, he cer- )ut ten miles fifty miles ; tnels seemed hat may be almost run- ere to pass islands, tho ^atchie, and sh stands at sable name, convey me OGDENSBURG. 235 onward to the capital of Canada, had not arrived, and waa not ex- pected for some hours, I devoted the time so gained to landing, cross- ing the long wooden bridge, (on which I observed the notice so usual on such structures in the States, prohibiting carriages from passing quicker than at a walking pace, under a penalty of some ten or twenty dollars,) and traversing the length and breadth of the town of Ogdensburg. But, although I think it is by such wayside visits to comparatively unvisited places, that one can best form proper no- tions of ihe general progress of a nation, at least as regards their in- ternal trade, such rambles do not aflFcid many incidents or particulars for description ; and the only note of Ogdensburg I find in my daily mrmoranda, is to the effect that it is of the same rough business cha- r oter with some of the other minor American tr-^ ^ places I have already described ; that a large trade in grain, aL lu grinding grain, is carried on in it ; and that it bears many indications of increasing Fealth and importance. At the same time, and although there are some neat-looking villas to be seen from the bridge, cresting the lofty banks of the stream of the Indian name, Ogdensburg does not as yet boast much beauty of an architectural nature. When describing my voyage on the Mississippi, I had occasion to mention the prevalence of the habit of chewing and its many un- pleasantnesses. When in a shop in Ogdensburg, I had an illustra- tion of the extent to which it is carried, and the manner in which it is acquired, by the juvenile portion of the community. I had made a small purchase, more with the view of getting into conversation with the intelligent looking proprietor, than from any desire for the thing bought; and finding the party I addressed very obliging, and (on my at once, and in accordance with my custom, asking him to excuse my questions, on the ground of my being an entire stranger,) very communicative, I continued my conversation with him as to tho trade of the town, which he represented as in a flourishing condition. Whilo I was talking, two or three well-dressed boys came into the shop asking for some sort of gum, adding to it a name I had not be- fore heard ; and on my asking the 1 ttle purchaser what he wanted, and ofiering to get some of it for him, the owner of the shop said, " Oh, never mind, sir, he wants what I have not to give him — ho wants Burgundy pitch to chew." " Burgundy pitch to chew I" said I — " that taste. is ap°uredly a strange " Yes it is," said my friend tho storekeeper, "but that is gene- rally the way in which the habit of chewing is at first acquired in this country. They begin with something which promotes the flow of the saliva, and then gradually come on to the weaker kinds of tobacco, and then to the more pungent." He added that even some of the fairer part of creation; in the 23G MONTREAL. United States, occasionally tried the first part of the process. But this last statement was, I trust, a scandal, as I also hope is Captain Marryat's story of the American young ladies carrying packages of pig-tail ornamented with ribbons for the use of their swains, and to promote their eloquence when they flag for want of a quid — of which practice, however, I certainly never saw anything, although I was iu the most chewing districts of America. Indeed, I agree with an American gentleman I lately travelled with in England, that it is to the ladies of thj United States that we must look for the banishment of this filthy habit of chewing ; and I also cordially concur in his re- mark, that I cannot conceive of one of the fairy, beauteous girls, of whom I saw so many in the United States of America, permitting a lover disfigured by chewing to approach, much less — time and place convenient — to kiss her. There is here surely a kind of quid pro quo, which is anything but flattering to the good taste of the ladies of the United States. Opposite Ogdensburg, and on the other side of the St. Lawrence, stands the Canadian town of Prcscott — a steam ferry-boat plying between the two. Leaving Ogdensburg in the very superior steamer called the British Empire, we touched at Prescott, and then resumed our voyage down the spirited waters of the dancing St. Lawrence : a mill near Prcscott being pointed out to us, in passing, as the scene of a rencontre between some of the then rebels to the British gov- ernment, and the then Canadian loyalists, in 1837 or 1838, when the former were defeated, and their leader slain on the spot — or taken and executed, I forget which — and a few hours thereafter we approached and passed down the great Sault Rapid, of which I have already written. At six o'clock P. M. of the same day, the steamer reached Lachline, nine miles from Montreal, where, like most of my fellow-travellers, I took the railway for the metropolis of Canada — not deeming the advantage of shooting the rapid of Lachline sufficient inducement to lead me to spend a night on board the steamer, or in the village on shore. Arriving at Montreal, I took up my temporary abode at the very excellent hotel of Donnegana, now unfortunately among the things that have been, having been burnt down during one of the late unseemly riots ("for it were folly to call them more) of which Mon- treal has been tne theatre. The destruction of the houses of parliament at Montreal, by fire, had occurred only a short time before my arrival ; and the popular riots at New York, said to have originated in the disputes between Mr. Macready and Mr. Forrest, were also ef Tecent happening, and the two divided the general conversation by rail, by steam-boat, and by stage. I shall have a little to say on both subjects; but I MONTREAL. 237 >roccss. But pe is Captain g packages of wains, and to lid — of which mgh I was in agree with an I, that it is to te banishment icur in his re- teous girls, of , permitting a ime and place of quid pro I of the ladies 3t. Lawrence, y^-boat plying er called the resumed our Lawrence : a , as the scene 3 British gov- p 1838, when the spot — or thereafter we d, of which I amc day, the 1, where, like he metropolis the rapid of ight on board de at the very ng the things ae of the late f which Mon- itreal, by fire, 1 the popular ")utes between t happening, >y steam-boat, bjectS; but I shall reserve what I have to say on the first till my return to Mon- treal from Quebec, and of the latter till I shall have reached New York. Montreal disappointed, while it pleased and surprised me. Tt disappointed me as a whole, but some parts of it gratified while they surprised me. I expected to find a finer town, taking it alto- gether ; but I was unprepared for the breadth of some of the streets, and the symmetry of many of the lines of buildings occupied by shops and counting-houses in the new town. The Koman Catholic Cathedral of Montreal is generally pointed out to the visitor as, in an architectural point of view, the most important building in the city ; and I observe that a late writer has said that, " with the exception of that in Mexico, it is the finest ecclesiastical edifice on the (American) continent." But, without professing to see beauties where I did not see them, I can- not acquiesce in this praise. The Catholic Cathedral of Montreal is a large building — so large as to be capable of containing about seven thousand worshippers ; it is also a handsome structure, and has a noble and imposing front ; but the towers or turrets which surmount it destroy much of the effect it would otherwise produce. They are much too thin and narrow for the size of the building. Indeed, there is in the immediate vicinity of the cathedral, a build- ing of far more modest pretensions, which I would venture to pre- fer to it, in so far as symmetry, proportion, and keeping are concerned. I mean the building occupied as the Montreal Bank, which I admired very greatly, and which, recording my own im- pressions, and uninfluenced by those of any one else, I characterize as the chastest of all the architectural beauties of the capital of the Canadas. The building at present used as a market-place, but which there was some talk of having converted into Houses of Assembly for the Legislature, in room of those destroyed by fire, (which do not seem to have been either handsome or favourably situated,) is also a handsome massive stone building, end beauti- fully situated, facing the river. The best general view of Montreal is to be obtained from the hill above the town, and by taking a drive r: und it. It is termed par excellence the Mountain, and it affords, i was told, a very ex- tensive and delightful view. Bu j I can only speak of it, and recommend it, on the report of others, as the weather and other causes of interruption disappointed my oft-formed expectations of being able to visit it. Leaving Montreal at night, a sail of about twelve hours brings you to Quebec, although the distance is nearly two hundred miles. Quebec has been called the Gibraltar of the new world. Never having seen the latter, I cannot say anything, pro or con, as to the 238 QUEBEC. sufficiency of the resemblance ; but most undoubteclly Quebec cita- del is a very strong place, and, defended by a British force, I should think it impregnable. It reminded me somewhat of the castle of Stirling in Scotland, near which some of the years of my boyhood were t.pent : for although Quebec is stronger, and is washed on one side by the broad deep waters of the St. Lawrence, and thus differs from Sterling, there is a general resemblance in the rocks on which the two citadels are built, and also in the neighbouring heights by which they are severally surrounded. The lions of Quebec and its neighbourhood are, the citadel, to which access is to be had by ticket on application — the Heights of Abraham, and the spot where the gallant Wolfe fell — the plains of Abraham — the monument to Wolfe and Montcalm, (a monument in its design, if not in its execution, one of the most pleasing ever reared to departed worth ; for what can be more noble, or more proper, than that the differences and contests of this world should not overleap the grave ?) and, in the neighbourhood, the Falls of the Montmorenci — the Indian lorcttc or village, and three lakes (Cal- vaire, St. Charles, and Beaupori) at some distance. Of these the reader will here only be troubled with some account of the Falls of the Montmorenci, and the natural steps on that river. With Niagara fresh in my recollection, and treasuring the memory of it as a never-dying reminiscence, I confess that it was with some surprise even to myself that I so much enjoyed the Falls of the Montmorenci. I will not attempt to analyse, much less to justify the feeling, farther than by saying that I always doubt the capability truly to enjoy fine scenery of that man who, even when in the midst of a scene which possesses any of the elements of beauty or of grand- cur, can find heart to compare it, in a critical way, with any other scene of which he may have been an observer. Nature is free, and rich as free. She derides the critic's narrow view. She revels in variety — ever varied, ever new. Thus it is that every scene of nature's forming has beauties peculiar to itself — beauties which other scenes may rival and exceed, but which they cannot exactly parallel ; and I confess it always raises my bile to have my feelings, on being privileged to witness a really grand and picturesque view, outraged by overhearing some such remarks as this — "It is very beiutiful, but nothing to the Falls of ." On one occasion, and when viewing the Falls of Niagara, there was obtruded on me, and by a fellow-countryman too, the remark — " What do you think of the Falls of Clyde now ? " I had a personal friendship for the man, but I could have knocked him down at the time, for the total absence of scenic perception which his observation displayed ; while I simply THE MONTMORENCI. 239 Quebec cita- )rco, I should the castle of my boyhood ashed on one d thus differs (cks on which ig heights by :he citadel, to le Heights of -the plains of (a monument pleasing ever ble, or more world should e Fulls of the e lakes (Cal- Of these the F the Falls of 5 the memory fas with some 5 Falls of the to justify the he capability L iu the midst y or of grand- ith any other I is free, and She revels iu rery scene of IS which other ictly parallel; ngs, on being iew, outraged ery beautiful, n, and when me, and by a think of the the man, but total absence rhile I simply responded, " As much or more than I ever did," — at the same time increasing the disfauce between us, so that I might not be further interrupted by any of his intrusions. The Fall of the Montmorenci is into a bay, at which it joins the river St. Lawrence, and over an almost perpendicular rock of above two hundred and fifty feet high. In falling over such a precipice, it is needless to say that the waters of the river are driven into flakes of foam J or that these flakes, again rising, partially in the shape of spray, form clouds which, assuming the prismatic colours, give great beauty to the scenci. The river, at the point whence it is precipitated into the abyss belo'v, is fully a hundred feet broad ; and the basin into which the agitated, convulsed waters are received, is bounded by steep cliffs of upwards of three hundred feet in perpendicular height. It is a scene of rich and rare magnificence, and, like all such, mere description is tame to give an adequate idea of the emo- tions it excites. Leaving the ftills, a walk of some two miles through the fields, and in a direction upwards, along the course of the river Montmo- renci, brings you to what is called " the Natural Steps," or, as they might be more appropriately termed, the Rapids of the Montmorenci. Here, for about three hundred yards, the pent-up river rolls in foam ; and, dashing itself against opposi g barriers of sandstone rock, through the main body of which it has, in course of ages, worked its way, (so as to create that appearance of steps which has given a name to the scene,) spouts up, when the opposing obstacle has proved insurmountable, at least for the time, in flukes of foam, only to fall back again, and to take another direction for its exit. The term picturesque is, beyond question, the epithet that may be most cor- rectly applied to such a scene. The banks of the river are through- out thickly clothed with trees ; and their effect, combined with the foaming current and the scattered masses of sandstone rock, com- pose a scene to which the words wild and picturesque with much propriety apply. lleturning from the Falls of the Montmorenci, after paying a visit to the Indian village, I was much struck with the view thus to bo had of Quebec, with the tin roofs of many of the houses sparkling in the beams of a summer sun ; and the pleasure of the return was enhanced by the accidental meeting with a reverend friend from Scot- land, whom I had last seen in my native country, at a distance of some three thousand miles. Having bade a long farewell to Quebec and its many beauties and celebrities, I returned, by the same route by which I had come, to the city of Montreal, and spent other two days in an endeavour to appreciate its scenic peculiarities, as well as in an attempt to ascer- tain the feelings which animated the mass of its sixty thousand 240 CANADIAN AFFAIRS. inhabitants in regard to recent events. This, therefore, seems the proper place for introducing the few notes I made of my observations on the latter subject, which is at present an important one in relation to this extensive and valuable colonial possession of Great Britain. CANADA, AND CANADIAN AFFAIRS. That the Canadians, from being the most loyal among the loyal, should become so disturbed and disloyal, apparently all of a sudden j and that the dissatisfaction should chiefly, if not solely, prevail amongst that party who, in 1837 and 1838, displayed so energeti- cally their attachment to Great Britain, in vigorously putting down the insurrection then attcmped, are two facts which, at first sight at least, struck me as eeemingly anomalous. Nevertheless, they are facts which are capable of being easily explained : the union of the two provinces of Upper and Lower Canada furnishes the explanation of the whole. That union was carried through, in accordance with tlie report published under the signature of Lord Durham. Into the vexed question of whether it was entitled, in very truth, to i^e regarded as a fair exposition of the views of the talented nobleman whose name it bore, or whether the proposition for a union of the provinces was one that would have received his continued support, had he lived, in unimpaired mental vigour, to see the experiment tried, it wo'e idle now to inquire. The union was carried, and it has worked very ill. As to that^ all parties are agreed. But why so ? Simply because that, whatever were the relative proportions of the two parties, as actively engaged in the disturbances of 1837 and 1838, the party with wLr'ch the then disloyal were connected, and by whom they were politically supported, was numerically stronger than the party of the loyal. Hence the former acquired in the united legislrture a political majority, which enabled them to do whatever the possession of such a majority entitled them to do. Nor were they slow to take advantage of the power, the constitutional power, of which they thus found themselves in the possession. Not to occupy time, by detailing matters familiar to most readers, the result of the union of the two Canadas into one province, was to place the disaffected party of 1837 and 1838 in power, and to oust therefrom the party by which the British rule and government had then been supported. While Messrs. Papineau, Lafoutaine, and their friends, (who in 1837 had incited the people to appear with artillery and muskets at meetings called for the real, if not tho avowed, object of overturning the British rule,) stepped or were hoisted into power, — Sir Allan M'Nab and the rest of the royalists, who had so couragfously suppressed the would-be rebellion at much risk, inconvenience, and pecuniary sacrifice, found themselves dis- CANADIAN AFFAIRS. 241 re, seems the J observations »ne in relation eat Britain. ang the loyal, of a sudden ; lolely, prevail d so energeti- putting down t first sight at less, they are 5 union of the le explanation icordance with lam. Into the truth, to K.e ted nobleman I union of the nued support, le experiment carried, and it ed. But why proportions of 3 of 1837 and onnected, and ically stronger iquired in the I them to do sm to do. Nor constitutional sscssion. Not 5t readers, the •ovince, was to er, and to oust )vcrnment had afoutaino, and to appear with 2al, if not the eppcd or were ' the royalists, cllion at much icmselves dis- placed and in a minority. Such a state of matters was in itself calculated to excite feelings of the strongest discontent in the minds of the British party in Canada, and they were not allowed to calm down even into a sort of acquiescence. They were kept fully alive by the successful attempt of M. Papineau to claim his salary as speaker of the Lower House, for the period during which he was absent from the colony, if not for the purpose, at least to the effect, of avoiding being brought to trial for his participation in the disturbances of 1837 and 1838 ; and by other measures of a similar character, (in- cluding all the public appointments,) until the matter was brought to a climax by the passing of the bill for the indemnification of parties who had suffered loss through, or in the course of, the disturbances which had been so successfully suppressed. So far as the letter of that act goes, it certainly might be so read as not necessarily to lead to the consequences anticipated by the British party in their opposi- tion to it. But they well knew what was meant, and what it would unavoidably lead toj and, despite the express declaration of the speaker of the legislative council, and of other officials of the colonial ministry, the view universally taken of the Indemnity Bill was and is, that its purpose is to pay the rebels who were in arms against the British government in 1837 and 1838 for their alleged losses in the course of the insurrection. It is this, or rather the Governor's giving the royal assent to that bill, that has brought to a climax the ft3lings of the party who supported and maintained the British connexion in 1837 and 1838. They think themselves trampled upon, and that their feelings have been outraged ; and prejudice itself must admit that they have some grounds for so thinking. No doubt the British Government, having ventured on a scheme of conciliation, might be expected to give it a faiv trial. No doubt also, a union of the provinces having been carried, it was to be ex- pected that, as a general rule, the home government would be pre- pared to sanction whatever measures might be approved of by the majority of the colonial legislature of the united provinces. But this was an extreme application of these principles. To make no provi- sion for the reward of those by whom, and through whose loyal ef- forts, the insurrection of 1837 and 1838 had been so easily repressed^ and yet to sanction a bill for the indemnification of those whoso suf- ferings, if they did suffer," were caused by their rising in arms against the British rule — it is to be questioned whether a more extraordi- nary piece of legislation is to be found in the whole history of the past. Our friends and kindred in the American republic boast of the liberality of their government, and government measures ; they would find it difficult to parallel this conduct of Great Britain, in thus " heaping coals of fire" on the heads of its most determined enemies. The object, no doubt, was to turn these parties into friends, 21 242 CANADIAN AFFAIRS. and, to appearance at least, it succeeded. The rebels of 1837 and 1838 are the loyalists of 1849 and 1850. But is this attachment to British rule more than seeming ? Bought loyalty is generally but lip loyalty ; and were it not that the party in Canada who at present have a majority in its legislative assemblies, possess the strongest of all interests to maintain the connection with England, and resist an- nexation to the United States, I confess I would fear much for the permanency of its devotion. But the party referred to have the very strongest of all possible interests to prefer the English to the repub- lican connection ; for, if a visitor to the states of the Union and to Canada sees one thing more clearly in the whole matter than another, it is this, that the preponderance, if not the very existence of the present dominant party, depends on the exclusion from Canada of the Anglo-Saxon race and Anglo-Saxon principles that prevail in the neighbouring republic. Assuredly, if it should ever happen that Canada is annexed to the United States, the hour that dates the con- nection dates also the downfall of the party that prer'-ntly have the rule in the Canadian provinces. Whatever Messrs. Jjafontaine and others may be, or may think themselves to be, whci: under the pro- tection of the heavy power and outstretched wings of England, they will find their glory departed if ever England permits them to fall into the iron grip of Brother Jonathan. It was the fashion in 1849, and it is probably the fashion still, to speak there, as here, of there being a war of races at present going on in Canada. This mode of speaking is scarcely correct. The dominance of British power, and its principles of Tros Tyriusve — of giving equal protection to all — prevents any such conflict; nay, had the two Canadas only been kept asunder — had they not been brought into political, in addition to topical juxtaposition, it is the opinion of many persons intimately acquainted with their history, that the two races which inhabit them would have gradually blended into each other, so as to leave little trace of their separate existence. But should British connection be exchanged for the rule and domination of the American republic, there will then be no doubt of the propriety of the phrase " conflict of races," as applicable to the state of things that will then exhibit themselves ; while there will be as little doubt as to the manner in which such conflict will eventuate. If, as a professional gentleman in Montreal, who was taking a very active part in the annexation movement, expressed himself when I was discussing the matter with him — if, unfortunately, the afixiir should ever come to the arbitra- ment of the musket, the French party in Canada will raise it in de- fence of the British connection j but it will be the interest of self- preservation, and not a real love of England, that will influence theui in so doing. No doubt strong efforts are now making by the repeal party, in ,f 1837 and attachment ;enerally but 10 at present strongest of nd resist an- ttuch for the lave the very to the repub- Jnion and to ihan another, tence of the ;anada of the reyail in the happen that lates the con- ntly have the tfontaine and ■ider the pro- ilnglond, they } them to fall hioninl849, lere, of there This mode of sh power, and 3tion to all — as only been 1, in addition ns intimately inhabit them to leave little connection be lean republic, rase " conflict then exhibit le manner in al gentleman e annexation ) matter with the arbitra- ■aise it in de- icrest of self- afluenco them )eal party, in CANADIAN AFFAIRS. 243 their vain attempt to promote what is called " peaceful annexation," to win over French Canadians to the cause. But their success, hith- erto, has been but slight. At an annexation meeting, organized and " got up" at Stanstead Plain, close to the United States' line, and in a neighbourhood where there are many parties born in, or connected with the republic of North America, only some twenty or thirty responded to the call. The parties who arranged the aflFair afterwards resorted to the common expedient of concocting a paper of grievances, with a suggestion of " peaceful annexation" as the cure. This paper was hawked about for signature, and it is said that, by " hook or crook," some six hundred were induced to subscribe their names to it. So say the Canadian papers on both sides ; and it will give the reader some notion of how far he can safely trust to the accuracy of the statements of some portions of the republican press on this, to them, tempting subject of Canadian disturbances, to be informed that, several of the New York papers, in commenting on this docu- ment, asserted that the signatures appended to it amounted to twelve thousand ! ! The fact to which I have thus referred is, indeed, the main distinc- tion between the discontents of 1837 and those of 1849. The former took up arms against the British government in 1837, because they disliked England and English connection, influence, and rule ; they defend it in 1849, because it is their interest and their safety so to do. The latter complain bitterly, and they made their complaints visible by disturbance and riot in 1849, because they found their loyalty unrequited, their attachment spurned, and the disloyal whom they had overcome, preferred to influence, power, and emolument. True it is, that the force brought out in 1849 to quell the riot at which the houses of parliament in Montreal were burned down, saw among the individuals they were required to disperse or to ap- prehend, men who fought by their side in 1837, and this without a change of service on the one side, or of sentiment on the other. Surely the existence of such things prove that there is something wrong in the mode of governing Canada. Surely such things ought not to be. Inquiries when in Canada, and attention paid to Canadian af- fairs since my return to this country, lead me to the conclusion, that the state of the public mind in Canada, although very un- settled, is yet so undetermined as to any particular line of conduct, that everything now depends upon the course that may be pursued by the legislature of England. My visit to Montreal was made immediately after the burning of the building in which the two houses of parliament held their sittings, and which, unfortunately, included the valuable libraries and archives of the province. As a matter of course, both parties 244 CANADIAN AFFAIRS. deplored the Vandal-like act, while they ascribed it to diflferent causes : one party alleging accident, the other incendiarism. But all agreed in this, that the riot had been greatly exaggerated, both in American and in European newspapers. Judging from details heard on the spot, the opera-house riot of New York in 1849 was infinitely more serious than the so-called Montreal insurrection of the same year. Indeed, the latter seems, in its origin and nature, to have been more liLa the disgraceful, but fortunately short-lived, riots in Glasgow and Edinburgh in 1848. The consequences, however, of the Montreal disturbance were more serious. The library of the legislative assemblies, containing a numerous and valuable collection of books and the archives of the province, was totally destroyed ; and by this heathenish act an irreparable loss was sustained, not by Canada or Great Britain alone, but by the whole civilized world. Of all destructive actions the wanton de- struction of literary proyerty is the most indefensible. I think I never felt ashamed of my countrymen but once, and that was when, at the Capitol of Washington, an American friend drew my attention to the tokens which yet remain of the burning of the iibrsry there, by some British troops under General Ross in 1814. There is no proper excuse for such acts, even in warfare. The only apology is the expression of a hope that it was more the result of accident than of design ; and that the person in command cannot be fairly made responsible for the indivi lual acts of his sol- diers, when out of the sight of himself and his subordinate offi- cers, and excited by opposition, or by the license engendered by success. But to return to Canada. It seemed strange that, neither on one side of the boundary line nor on the other, did one hear half so much about American annexation as we do daily in Great Britain. Neither in the States nor in Canada was it much spoken of in May and June 1849. In the States, so little was said about it, that it appeared either as if the recent questionable annexation of Texas, and acquisition of California, from the weaker sister republic of Mexico, had satisfied the American thirst for territorial aggrandise- ment; or that American statesmen had learned the lesson that a smaller territory, well cemented and more united, were better than a vaster union of more heterogeneous materials. It was, therefore, with some surprise that I shortly afterwards perused the Vermont manifesto in favour of peaceable annexation. The resolutions of the Vermont legislature, on this subject of the annexation of Canada to the United States, are interesting, solely because they aid at least in arriving at a right estimate of the feelings prevailing on the subject in that part of the republic which marches with and borders on the British possessions. These resolutions proceed on the narrative, that CANADIAN AFFAIRS. 245 to diflferent arism. But rerated, both from details in 1849 was surrection of L and nature, 57^ short-lived, onsequences, erious. The amerous and province, was eparable loss e, but by the e wanton de- e. I think I md that was end drew my irning of the [loss in 1814. warfare. The ras more the I in command cts of his sol- )ordinate offi- igendered by leither on one hear half so ilreat Britain. en of in May )ut it, that it ion of Texas, ir republic of d aggrandise- lesson that a better than a as, therefore, tbe Vermont lutions of the of Canada to lid at least in n the subject irders on the larrative, that the original articles of the American Confederation contemplated the admission of Canada into the Uniun ; that the state of feeling in Canada indicates a desire for such union, and " therefore" the State of Vermont resolve that it is desirable to effect such union, " with- out a violation, on the part of the United States, of the amicable relations existing with the British Government, or the law of na- tions." The second " resolution" is in accordance with this general principle, being in these terms, — " Resolved, That the peaceful annex- ation of Canada to the United States, with the consent of the British Government and of the people of Canada, and upon just and honourable terms, is an object in the highest degree desirable to the people of the United States." These words are all fair enough ; what they really mean — whether the profession of a desire for peace- ful annexation be not a mere tribute at present paid to British power, and whether there be any probability of annexation taking place with "the consent of the British Government and of the people of Canada, and upon just and honourable terms" — time will show. For the present, the speech of the British minister must have somewhat staggered the believers in the possibility of such an event. However, the State of Vermont — and also the State of New York, which has since followed the example Vermont set her — have an interest in the matter peculiar to themselves — an interest sepa- rate and independent from that of the other states of the American Union, (save perhaps Maine and New Hampshire,) and one in which these other states, or at all events the Southern States, are not at all likely to sympathise. Their immediate juxta-position to Canada East, and their division therefrom by a little more than imaginary boundary, creates the interest, and renders it very natural that they at least should desire that their fertile neighbour should become a member of the same confederation with themselves. But the advan- tage to the states removed from the Canadian border it is more diffi- cult to see. Indeed, it would be easy to show that, while the inte- rest of the Southern States — Virginia, the Carolinas, Georgia, Ala- bama, Mississippi, Louisiana, &c. — is decidedly adverse, none of the states, save those which touch on the Canadian border, have any interest at all in the matter which is favourable to annexation. But my business here is more properly with Canadian than with United States' affairs. Contenting myself, therefore, with the remark that, whatever other effects Canadian annexation might possibly have on American destinies, it would give the non-slaveholding interest such an overwhelming majority in the United States Congress as would greatly hasten, if it did not precipitate, the overthrow of the system of slavery throughout the whole of the continent of North America ; I proceed to say, that while, from this absence of much general ac- knowledgment of the likelihood of annexation with the States, one is 21* 246 CANADIAN AFFAIRS. apt to consider the chance of such an event as one beyond the limits of reasonable calculation : still, on more minute inquiry, you are led to consider it not so very impossible, only the British Government persist in their present system of colonial mismanagement. It was an observation made to myself by a professional gentleman in Mon- treal, who had been my school-fellow in Scotland, and who has, since the conversation referred to, taken an active part in the move- ment, that he never contemplated any measure with more reluctance than he did a separation between England and Canada, and that he would only advocate it from a conviction that the Canadians, and their wants and wishes, never would be properly understood or legis- lated on in the mother country, or at least at the Colonial Office. Such views are general amongst men of influence, education, and talent in Canada; and the men who entertain them are men not to be put down by the sic volo sicjuheo of a Colonial Secretary. These parties unite in acknowledging that the Canadas have been very grossly mismanaged, and that some radical change is necessary. They no doubt differ in regard to what the change is to be. A sepa- ration of Upper and Lower Canada, accompanied by a new territo- rial division between the two — a Federal Union of the British North American provinces, under the nominal dominant authority and pro- tection of Great Britain, with one of the royal family of England as the executive head — a union of the same provinces into a separate and independent republic, but in amity and connexion, and under the protection of Great Britain — or a peaceful separation of the Canadas from England, and their annexation with, and incorporation into, the family of the great federal union of the United States of America. All these schemes and measures have their several sup- porters, the only bond of union among them being the universal admission that some change is imperiously required. It is not in- tended to discuss the relative value of these several panaceas, pro- pounded for Canadian disaffection and distress ; but it may be re- marked on them generally, that either of the first two would suffice to put an end to the present clamour ; that the second seems infi- nitely preferable to the third ; and that, without British consent, it seems to be conceded on all hands, that the last is not to be thought of, and that it neither could nor would be accomplished. The Montreal Herald seems to be the mouthpiece of the annexa- tion party; and if the reader in Great Britain judges from tV, he will form a very exaggerated notion of the feeling of the party it professes to represent. But, indeed, this paper labours under a charge of inconsistency, which greatly militates against, and detracts from, the effect of the statements and arguments which it now puts forth. So late as March 1849, we had it full of loyalty, patriotism, and devotion to English connexion. Comparing the then state of CANADIAN AFFAIRS. 247 id tlie limits , you are led Government 3nt. It was nan in Mon- id who has, in the move- re reluctance and that he nadianS) and ;ood or legis- lonial Offixie. iucation, and I men not to stary. These re been very is necessary, be. A sepa- new territo- {ritish North rity and pro- ' England as ^ a separate and under ation of the ncorporation ed States of several sup- he universal ;t is not in- maceas, pro- may be re- svould suffice d seems infi- h consent, it » be thought the annexa- from ity ho the party it lirs under a and detracts it now puts , patriotism, ien state of Canada to the condition of the Italian Exarchates of the tenth cen- tury, and quoting the eloquent passage in Gibbon, where he say& "f these that " they shared in all the eclat which belonged to the most mighty monarchy in the world, and enjoyed all the military and na- val proiection which that condition could afford," &c. — these obser- vations of the Koman historian, on the Italian Exarchaies of the tenth century, the Montreal Herald, in March 1849, applied to the Canadas in their connexion with England. But, alas for newspaper inconsistency ! In the close of the same year we have the same pa- per, under the same management, declaring that nothing can remove the evils under which, in their phraseology, Canada now groans, save a separation from Great Britain, and her incorporation into the great family of the North American Republic. But, many as are the in- telligent men in Canada who are to be found on the side of a radical change, I have misread the general mina in t'uat country, if this par- ticular change would be considered as the best one, or as anything save a choice of evils. Most Canadians are disposed to count the cost of American annexation. While they admit that it might pro- hably raise the value of fixed property in Canada, and possibly create somewhat greater activity, from an influx of Anglo-Saxon spirit and enterprise, they at the same time see clearly that it would destroy the importance of the leading towns in Canada, deprive it of the whole expenditure of the British military, naval, commissariat, and ordnance departments — introduce the American tariflf on imported goods, which is, in very many particulars, much higher than the ex- isting one — remove much capital from Canada to the more central districts of the States — and involve Canada in whatever odium at- taches to the participation of the American Federal Eepublic in the sin or misfortune of slavery. My impression therefore is, that annexation principles in Canada have not progressed so far as some parties in this country, or in the States, would represent them to have done. The question has been mooted ; many persons are interested in pressing it on the Canadian public — and the most unscrupulous mis-statements have been an'^ will be put forth to urge its forward movement ; yet still it is any- thing but palatable to the great body of the Canadian people : than whom there are none constitutionally more loyal, within the limits of the wide dominions of Queen Victoria. But, at the same time, there is danger in delay. Such principles exist j and if Great Britain would keep these North American colonies, justice as well as sound policy requires the instant adoption of some legislative measures which icill satisfy the British party in Canada, and appease the prevailing discontent, even though that should involve the going back in some measure upon our free-trade policy. The indications by the Government of America, of tncir intention to draw tighter their 248 CANADIAN AFFAIRS. ii;i! tariflF protection to the native industry of the United States, furnish Great Britain both with a reason and a justification for reconsideriDg the position that free trade must, of necessity, be fair trade, it were desirable that our leading Free-traders were more plain asd explicit than they have yet been on the great question of the British colonial empire. It is difficult to know from Cobden, et hoc genun omne, on what grounds they defend the present system of legislatiug for the colonies : whether it be because the colonies are not worth keej ing, at least at the price we have been paying for them, or can keep them at J or whether they think the course they advocate is the best means for promoting colonial regeneration and improvement. If the latter be their view, I would oppose facts — stubborn facts — to their theories. If the former, the answer is an entire diflference of opinion. Many wise and some great men have thought, as I do, that, without her colonies, Great Britain, instead of being the greatest of powers, would sink into the position of a third or fourth rate one ; and that not only are our noble colonies worth paying a heavy price to redeem, but that, properly legislated for, and relieved from charges and expenses they have no right to bear, they hav^ been, and they are destined to be, great sources of wealth to the parent state. In their proper time and place, these are positions I am prepared to discuss to the best of my humble ability. Meanwhile I draw to a close my re- marks on the subject of the importance of the Ganadas to the mother country, by observing that there is the soundest political philosophy in the sentiment of Sam Slick, when — likeniug the part that the Canadian trade bears in the general trade of Great Britain to the contribution the Ohio makes to the mighty waters of the Mississippi — he says that, although to all appearance it does not make it broader or higher, it makes it an " everlasting sight deeper". Just so with the colony trade : though you can't see it in the ocean of English trade, yet it is still there — there, to the effect of giving much greater depth to the general business of the mother country. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 249 States, furnish )r reconsidering trade, it were in and explicit liritish colonial t/enuff omnCf on ;islatii:g for the worth keejing, r can keep them the best means . If the latter their theories, pinion. Many it, without her F powers, would id that not only to redeem, but 3S and expenses are destined to n their proper discuss to the a close my re- ,s to the iother ical philosophy part that the Britain to the the Mississippi [nake it broader Just so with an of English g much greater CHAPTER XII. "To sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell, To slowly trace the forest's shady scene; This is not solitude, His but to hold Conyerse with nature's charms, and view her stores unrolled." Btkon. Crossing the St. Lawrence from Montreal to La Prairie, (a dis- tance of eight miles,) in a steamer called the Iron Duke, I pro- ceeded onwards through an uninteresting country to the village of St. John's where I took the steamer Burlington, (so called after the town of the same name, the capital of the state of Vermont,) en route for Whitehall, situated at the upper end of Lake Cham- plain. I have since observed that it was in a steamer of the same name that Mr. Dickens travelled over the same route, and he de- scribes the vessel as a " perfectly exquisite achievement of neat- ness, elegance, and order." The distance of time scarcely admits of the belief that the two vessels were the same, or to be identified on any known principle of marine architecture, save on the supposi- tion that, like the Highlandman's gun, there had been a gradual but total renewal of the whole " stock, lock, and barrel," the name and general identity remaining nevertheless. But if not the same, they were certainly similar, for a more elegant or a more orderly steamship than the Burlington, in which I passed through Lake Champlain, could scarcely be imagined. The chief characteristic of Lake Champlain is its great length, as compared with its limited breadth. It is 108 miles long, while its greatest breadth is only 12, and its average width only 8 miles ; and being dotted over with numerous picturesque islands, reposing as it were on its bosom, the sail from the one end to the other is very varying : so that, although no part of the scenery is entitled to be denominated grand, or to be compared, as it has by some been, to the much more majestic scenery of the lakes of Scotland, a sail on Lake Champlain is exceedingly agreeable and interesting — and that independent even of the historic associations connected with the many conflicts of which its waters, islets, and banks, were the arenas, during the war between England and her revolted colonies or their French allies. That war is but a relic of barba- rism, and that it is ever to be deplored and avoided by all honour- able means, is no doubt true, and all reflecting minds will subscribe to this opinion in the abstract But there are cases where force or resistance becomes a duty ; and, whether the victims may have 250 LAKE GEORGE. died in defence of the right, or in vindication of the wrong, there ever will be felt a generous sympathy for 'hose who have fallen in the battle-field, or when contending navies uav;rteen miles in length, with an average breadth of about i !\iVi f»nd contains not less than 14,000 acres of land. This islauti. fojiuo by the confluence of a strait called the East River, with the iiudt: , or north river, is generally level, and well adapted for building ; though this very flatness is an obstacle to the picturesque beauty of the town. The position of New York on the map of the world points it out as a place of trade ; and of its past success and present progression, in this respect, the stranger needs no further evidence than a glance at its noble harbour and crowded wharves, or a visit to its splendid customhouse — the latter a building of the Doric order of architecture, covering a large space of ground, and built at an expense of 1,175,000 dollars, (nearly £240,000 sterling,) including in this sum the price paid for the furniture and the ground. This fact of the costliness of the New York customhouse reminds me, however, of the propriety or qualifying the above observations, by remarking that, although Glasgow may stand a comparison with the American em- porium in some respects, the elegance or expense of her customhouse is certainly not among them. A building more disproportioned or inadequate to the wants of the community, or to the extent of busi- ness conducted in it, than ia the customhouse at Glasgow, it were difiicuit to find in any town in the world. In 1811, when the total amount of the duties of customs collected at Glasgow were only £3124 2s. 4Jd., or even up to 1843 (in which year the amount had increased to the sum of £497,7281 Os. 2d., and when Glasgow was advanced from a second class to a first class port) there might have been some apology for refusing or at least for delaying, to make the customhouse a handsome building. But now, when the duties of customs annually collected exceed the very large sum of £650,000 sterling, (much more than the whole revenue the island of Cuba yields to Spain,) it were surely not too much to expect that the pub- lic building in which business of this nature, and of this magnitude, is transacted, should be something, at least, of an ornament to the city in which it is placed. The chief object in view, in thus drawing a comparison between NF-W YORK. 263 rly since tlie 3 the era of a now enables , there being as yet built, »f .Manhattan ntually fill up ) anticipation BW York will it Manhattan an average ,000 acres of lit called the lly level, and an obstacle to [ points it out t progression, than a glance » its splendid ■ architecture, n expense of ig in this sum s fact of the I, however, of marking that, Lraerican em- customhouse )portioned or tent of busi- igow, it were hen the total »w were only ) amount had Glasgow was might have to make the the duties of )f £650,000 nd of Cuba hat the pub- magnitude, mcnt to the son between the advancement respectively made by the cities of New York and Glasgow, was not only to illustrate the bond of connexion which so far exists between the two that the one may be almost said to reflect the prosperity of the other ; but also to point the attention of our American friends: to a fact which, it appeared to me, some of them are disposed to overlook — viz., to the fact that progression has not been all on their side of the Atlantic : while they have been going forward, the mother country has certainly not been standing still. But having thus alluded to the subject, it may neither be out of place nor uninteresting (particularly now that a direct line of steam communication is about to be opened between Glasgow and New York) to give the following tabular statement, made up from official documents, to which I have had access through the kindness of the gentleman in charge of them, showing at one view, and for diflfer' t years, the porportions existing between the numbers which reprt;:. nt the population, and those which express the respective amour H of the duties of custom, and of revenue, of the river connected wi'.u He city of Glasgow. Date. Population. Customhouse Duties. Revenue of cr 1811 11,046 £ 8. d. £ 8. d. 1S16 12C,000 3,124 2 41 4,755 3 8 1821 147,043 8,890 18 1 5,843 7 8 1831 202,426 16,147 17 7 8,070 2 2 1841 282,134 68,741 6 9 18,932 7 1849 about 850,000 526,100 11 50,666 19 2 640,668 17 10 59,034 14 1* The above facts will be sufficient to test the soundness of my posi- tion, that there is much ground for a comparison between New York and Glasgow, in their progress and advancement in commercial wealth and greatness, as well as to satisfy any transatlantic reader that the Old Country is very far from losing ground in the social or commercial race. But to return to the mercantile metropolis of the great republic. It is very far from my intention to give a detailed account of what may be called the memorabilia of the commercial metropolis of Ame- rica; at the same time the notice of a few of the more prominent of them may prove not uninteresting or unacceptable ; and their descrip- tion will at all events show, even to those who may be disposed ♦ In 1847, the Customhouse duties collected at Glasgow, amounted to the still larger sum of .£667,834, Itis. 6d. The experience of tlie opening months of the current year leads to flie conclusion, that the amount of the revenue for 1850 will not be less than £700,000, being more than the whole revenue of England in the reign of Henry ^^ 2G4 NEW YORK. I!! to regard my American impressions as somewhat too favourable and eulogistic, that it was at least my endeavour to judge for myself — to form my own opinions from what I saw, in so far as opportunity was afforded me for so doing. Whether the opportualties afforded justify the opinions expressed, it is for the reader to determine. Some writert, have drawn, or attempted to draw, a parallel between London and New York. This may be done, but it is scarcely fair. Farther than in their being severally and respectively the two largest cities in Great Britain and in America, there is no proper parallelism between them. To talk of the sighi3 and scenes in New York as equally interesting, and fully as extraordinary, as are the sights and scenes of daily exhibition in that great world of a city the modern Babylon, is simply nonsense — ^pure nonsense. Such statements, describing New York as displaying many of the characteristics of London, generally originate in a desire to bepraise the former city. They usually emanate from a class from whose exag/: 3rations America and American society have suffered, and are likel;y to suffer, more in European estimation than they have ever done from unjust criticism of the many fault-finders, who (adopting old Weller's advice to Pick- wick) visit the United States only to come back and write a book about the " Merrikins as '11 pay their expenses and more, if they only blows 'em up enough." The gentlemen referred to usually visit the United States for a purpose; they go out to pick up facts to square with some precon- ceived theory of politics or of trade, which they or their patrons are previously pledged to support. Everything is seen, or at least reported, under the influence of a spirit of exaggeration. On the one hand, merely trifling defects become abominable deformities ; while, on the other, those things which are simply mentionable as worthy of being recorded, are dignified into marvels to be commented on with admiration. Thus it is that an attempt has been made to describe the Whirl of Life exhibited in New York as like the extra- ordinary scene daily witnessed in that largest and most wonderful of all large cities — the city of London : but the comparison is extra- vagant. No doubt, there are some points of accordance and similarity between New York and London. Of these the number of omni- buses is one. On application to official authority, I find that there are fully one thousand licensed omnibuses now plying in the streets of the modern Babylon. In summer and winter, the prrticular description of omnibus, as well as the routes of travel, varies a little, there being in spring and summer more of what are considered country vehicles, (omnibuses going to a distance,) and, in winter, more of those which confine themselves to the streets of the town. But as a general rule, the total number travelling NEW YORK. 205 vourable and for myself-— I opportunity ilties afforded termine. rallel between scarcely fair, [le two largest er parallelism New York as he sights and r the modern li statements, racteristics of e former city, tions America luffcr, more in njust criticism idvico to Pick- write a book more, if they d States for a I some precon- iir patrons are , or at least 1. On the one mitiesj while, ble as worthy iommented on een made to Jke the extra- lost wonderful rison is extra- |nd similarity iber of omni- I find that low plying in id winter, the [tes of travel, [e of what are istance,) and, [o the streets jer travelling the streets of London is about a thousand. Almost all these ve- hicles are licensed to carry thirteen passengers inside, and nino out ; and (as may bo gathered from their success and increase) they receive a very large amount of public patronage. Now, re- gard being had to the size of New York, the number of such vehi- cles in it is fully as great. In a number of the New York Post of November 1849, it is stated by a correspondent, (who described himself as an " old driver of a New York omnibus in one of the oldest routes of that city, for a term of seven years,") that the entire number then plying in the streets of New York, was 376; and, large as the number is, I fully credit the statement. Stand- ing at the door of Delmonico's hotel in Broadway, past which most of the omnibuses drive, I have noted the passing of eighteen crowded omnibuses within the period of five minutes. It did not, however, appear to me that the number of street carriages for oc- casional hire were as great in New York as might have been ex- pected in a city of the size, and this possibly may, in some mea- sure, account for the unusually large proportion of omnibuses. In London, the number of carriages for hire is very great — so great that in this present year (1850) there are already no less than 2864 coaches and cabs licensed for public accommodation. Among the notabilia of New York I would include the hotels — the hotels as a class. It is not my intention to enumerate them j but if the European traveller visiting New York has an extra day or two to spend in sight-seeing, I recommend him to devote it or them to a ramble through the public rooms, and to a general in- spection of the hotels. I venture to predict that the result will repay the trouble, and give him some new notions of the people he has crossed the Atlantic to see. Who has not heard of the water-works of New York ? — those works which, in Yankee phrase, are said to be capable of supply- ing water to drown all creation. An account of a visit to the chief emporium of the New World would certainly be incomplete, were it not to contain some account of this extensive and extremely useful undertaking. The Croton water-works of New York — so called from the name of the river whence they take their rise — commence at a distance of nearly 40 miles from the city. At this place the waters are collected by a dam of 250 teet long, 40 feet high, 70 feet wide at the bottom, and 7 feet wide at the top. Thence, tunneling and embanking bring the waters to the Haar- lem river, over which it is carried by an aqueduct bridge of 1400 feet long, at an elevation of 114 feet above tide-mark. From the bridge the water is conveyed (still by a covered archway) to what is called the receiving reservoir, which is situated in Eighty-sixth street, 38 miles distant from the Croton dam. This reservoir is 23 200 NEW YORK. #^ divided into two compartments or ponds, and is said (and the ap- pearance seems to justify the statement) to contain 150,000,000 gallons of water, and to cover 35 acres of land. From the re- cei\Ing reservoir, the waters are conveyed to the distributing reservoir at Fortieth street. The distributing reservoir covers four acres, and is said to contain 20,000,000 gallons of water. The whole undertaking is on the gravitation principle, the descent being at the average rate of about 13^ inches per mile. The water is good, though it seemed to me somewhat brownish ; and it is said that the supply is equivalent to about 60,000,000 gallons in the twenty-four hours ! The whole cost of the work was nearly 14,000,000 dollars — greatly more than double the amount of the original estimate. The above general description will enable the reader to judge of the magnitude of this noble undertaking. The bridge over Haar- lem river is a great achievement of architectural and mechanical skill — even in these days of engineering wonders. But it is the enlightened policy which dictated such a work tha^ is the most commendable part of the aifair. An ample supply of water is of the very first consequence to the increase of a large town ; and, in so far anticipating the growth of the city and the wants of the inhabitants, the promoters of the Croton water-works showed a far-sighted wisdom, which is worthy of all praise and imitation. The undertaking was a public one, and the expense defrayed from the city charter-chest, and it is probably a fortunate circumstance that the actual cost was not foreseen. Even as it was, the citizens were by no means unanimous in wishing it undertaken. Out of the 17,330 who voted on the subject, nearly 6000 votes were against the incurring of the expense. At first, the undertaking was not a remunerating one ; now, there is a very fair revenue for the amount expended. When passing the dismantled Opera House of New York, I was reminded of the very disgraceful riot of which it was the scene, and in part the cause, and which had its origin in disputes between Mr. Macready and Mr. Forrest, or rather in the attack of the lat- ter upon the former. This popular disturbance occurred but a very short time before my arrival in the city ; and, together with the Canadian disturbances, and the running down of the steamer Empire City, in the North River, (by which upwards of one hun- dred and twenty persons were drowned,) it formed the prevailing topic of general conversation in New York. But it is not to in- troduce any opinion of my own that I have made mention of this matter of the riot at the New York Opera House in May 1849. It is to pay what I feel to be a deserved tribute to the New York press that I have done so. With one unworthy exception, I did NEW YORK. 2G7 (and the ap- i 150,000,000 From the re- 5 distributing )ir covers four ' water. The !, the descent 3r mile. The rownish ; and [)0,000 gallons )rk was nearly imount of the ler to judge of Ige over Haar- ad mechanical But it is the la^i is the most of w^ater is of town ; and, in i wants of the )rks showed a and imitation, defrayed from circumstance as, the citizens akcn. Out of votes were e undertaking lir revenue for w York, I was iras the scene, jputes between ick of the lat- )ccurred but a together with f the steamer Is of one hun- the prevailing 1 is not to iu- ention of this in May 1849. he New York ception, I did not hit upon a single paper that took anything save a very dispas- sionate view of the affair, or that unworthily attempted to make the subject a pretext for inflaming party or national jealousy. Several of them professed the view that the disturbance in ques- tion had a deeper seat, and a more hidden origin, than the mere quarrel or difference in opinion between or about the two votaries of Thespis ; but, with the exception I have alluded to, I did not observe that any of the newspapers sought to make an unworthy use of the supposed cause of the disturbance ; while many of them ridiculed the attempt made by the excepted print to give to the quarrel the air of a national dispute. And well they might ; for surely, and on whatever side the justice of the quarrel may be supposed to lie, it would be as reasonable to make a quarrel be- tween any two men in any rank of life, however humble, the one an Englishman and the other an American, a cause of national jealousy, as it would be so to dignify a dispute between two actors, however eminent in their calling they be. But it was not only in this way that the generality qf the American pr^ss displayed their candour in relation to this affair. Having, on other subjects, seen in some papers such a truckling to mobocracy, and such an echo- ing of the mere prejudices of the people in favour of anything connected with their own side of the Atlantic, as did not give me a very high opinion of the newspaper press of America, I confess I was agreeably pleased to find that so many of them came forth so decidedly and at once, in vindication of Mr. Macready, and in reprobation of their own countryman — ^pleased, not, I trust, be- cause Mr. Forrest was condemned, but because the defence of Macready argued a love of fair play, which I would fain believe animates Jonathan the son, in America, as much as it does, and always has done, John Bull the father, in Old England. The fol- lowing passage from the Neiv York Police Gazette of 19 th May 1849, which might be paralleled by quotations from sundry other New York papers, will explain my meaning : — " The question," says the editor of that print, when investigat- ing the causes which led to the riot,* and consequent destruction of the Opera House, ' is : who bred the mischief, and who set its malevolent spirit on the face of the waters ? These were the evil- doerj ; and to these, wherever we may find them, and whoever they • The dil division of I of artillery, - - . „ the danger of a mobocracy in a republic. Beginning from an apparently trivial cause, the riot lasted for about six hours, and it was not quelled until twenty-two persons were killed and above thirty wounded — many of the latter mortally. The trial of the rioters lasted thi*ee weeks; and the principal ringleader was condemuetl to one year's imprisonment, in addition to a fine of 250 dollars — a most inadequate punishment, surely, for buch au oftence. 268 NEW YORK. may be, are we to turn with the complaints that strive within us, and to look to for ultimate satisfaction. " We are no public accuser, but we do not hesitate to involve ourself so fai with contradiction, as to charge this mischief upon Mr. Forrest, and Mr. Forrest only, and to hold him answerable, in our resentments as a citizen, for all the evil that has taken place. " It is he who, having, in his conceit, attributed to a brother actor an opposition which was the caprice of undirected public taste, projected a quarrel, or rather a system of assault, tha* xjv> has maintained with vicious pertinacity for years, and to which, for the purpose of subsidizing prejudice, he has sought to give the colour of a national dispute. " The public, however, fully understood his aim ; and, despite Mr. Forrest's coarse inflammatory letters, were determined to take no notice of the matter. It was plainly a private quarrel. Mr. Macready was unaccused of a single word derogatory to American institutions or American character, and every community in which the fivals had appeared, until their arrival in New York, very sen- sibly seemed to think Forrest was big enough and rude enough to fight his own battles for himself, and more particularly as Mr. Macready, after a single explanation, had made Jiim no reply." I would prosecute my description of the celebrities or memorabilia of New York, were it not that personal experience teaches me that such details are not in general very interesting in the perusal. Con- tenting myself, therefore, with the following remarks — viz., that I did not find Broadway either so broad a way, or so straight a way, or so shady a way, or so well paved a way, as the glowing accounts of others had led me to anticipate — that a hurried visit to New York University, with my friend Mr. Kimball, delighted me very greatly — that, of all the architectural beauties of New York, the tower and spire of the old Trinity Church (situated in Broadway, and the successor of the original structure of the same name founded in 1696, during the reign of William and Mary) has left a most pleas- ing and abiding impression on my mind of its exceedingly chaste architectural beauty — and that the City Hall, though, on the whole, (combining situation with extent and ornament,) the finest erection in the city, did not please my eye half so much as some other buildings of lesser pretension and note, I shall proceed with my narrative by observing, that it was on a very lovely afternoon, at four o'clock, that I started from New York for Philadelphia. There are two routes, either of which the traveller may pursue, in going to rniladelphia ; and while I went the one way, and re- turned by the other, I cannot say that I saw any ground for a preference of the one over the other. The one (that by which I went) is by steamer, through Statcn Island Sound and llaritau PHILADELPHIA. 269 e within us, B to involve ischief upon iswerable, in aken place. , to a brother ected public ault, tha* xiO to which, for ive the colour and, despite lined to take uarrel. Mr. to American aity in which )rk, very son- de enough to ilarly as Mr. no reply." • memorabilia Lches me that 3erusal. Con- — viz., that I ight a way, or g accounts of to New York 3 very greatly he tower and jv^ay, and the B founded in a most plcas- iingly chaste on the whole, inest erection some other leed with my afternoon, at elphia. may pursue, way, and re- ground for a by which I and llaritau Bay, and onwards by the Camden and Amboy Railway ; the other is by steam ferry to Jersey city, and thence by railway, crossing the Delaware to Philadelphia by means of a ferry. Both routes are cheap, good, and comfortable. The sail through Staten Island Sound and Raritan Bay is pleasing, although the banks are gene- rally low, and consequently tame. The country on either side is well cultivated, and sundry small towns or villages are from time to time seen. There are also a variety of neat villas, or gentle- men's seats. Some of these are of course handsomer than the rest, and several of them display much taste and elegance, both as regards situation and construction. But comparing such places with those to be seen in nearly every part of Great Britain, it were certainly not inaccurate to describe them as being, in general, of a medium character. Indeed, I would say, as regards the whole of the American Union, that its prevailing characteristic is a hand- some mediocrity — ^nothing either very high or very low ; so that if, on the one hand, you are but very seldom disheartened and dis- tressed by those exhibitions of poverty so frequently to be seen in the large cities of older and more thickly-peopled countries, you miss also, as ornaments in the landscape, those noble mansions, palaces, castles, and baronial halls, which give such a finish to an English scene — adorning the view, and at the same time carrying the mind back into the past with a flood of historic reminiscences. The comparative merits and advantages of the two states of things will be judged of by each reader according to his or her peculiar prepossessions. But the contrast between the two countries might be carried out in the same way, and to the same result, in reference to many other matters besides the country-seats of their wealthier classes. Arrived at South Amboy, a distance of twenty-eight miles from New York, you proceed at once by railway to Ca-niden, a distance of sixty-one miles, and then, crossing the Delaware by steamboat, you at once find yourself in the Quaker and Quaker-like city of PHILADELPHIA, built on the space of ground lying between the rivers Delaware and Schuylkill, and at the confluence of the latter stream with the former. Philadelphia, albeit mainly built of brick, is nevertheless a very fine city. The white marble steps and facings to the base- ment stories of the private houses, give to the whole town an air of peculiar elegance. It is clean to a degree, and it is regular almost to a fault — so methodical, that the rude sketch of it con- tained in the common road-book looks like a multiplication-table. The streets are in straight lines, those running north and south . 23* 270 PHILADELPHIA. being at right angles with those running east and west. There is even a precision and a regularity in the manner in which they are numbered or Lu,med — those streets whose direction is north and south being numbered as first, second, third, &c., while those run- ning at right angles to them are named after trees, as Walnut, Chestnut, &c. Philadelphia seemed to me as if it had been laid down by a professor of mnemonics, in an endeavor to ascertain how far it was practicable so to lay out a great city, as to render it utterly impossible for the most obtuse stranger to lose his way in it. There is a large, broad street, called Matket Street — so named, from the purpose to which the central space in it is de- voted ; and instead of feeling the presence of such a name an incongruity amidst the other numerical and botanical ones, you feel it to be a relief, as breaking, to a small extent, the unvarying sameness and uniformity. Some of the principal streets in Thiladelphia are shaded with trees ; and I observed at least one sq lare which was all planted, over and throughout, with a view to shade — a hint that might be advan- tageously acted on, as regards some of the s(|uares in the towns of the West Indian Islands. This tree-planted square in Philadelphia was a genuine square, although some of the framers of the city seem to have entertained somewhat heterodox notions of what constitutes a square ; and the only occasion on which I was at any loss to find a locality in this distractingly regular city, was when I proceeded to deliver to a lady resident, a letter of introduction I had been honour- ed with from her son, a highly intelligent merchant, carrying on business both in London and in New York. The letter was ad- dressed Portico Square; and it was only by diligent inquiry that I found that Portico Square was nothing more than one side of a very handsome street of private dwelling-houses, the square being con- stituted by the buildings as they fronted to each side of four dif- ferent streets. No town in the United States offers more objects to interest the stranger than does the Quaker City. The Fairmount Water-works, and, adjoining, the wire suspension-bridge; the State House, which contains a very good loooden statue of Washington, and in which the visitor is shown the room where the Declaration of Independence was signed; the Exchange, a very handsome, imposing edifice, but with only a very smull portion of it applied to the purposes of a news-room; the beautiful cemetery at Laurel-hill, and the institution called Girard College, besides various other buildings, objects, and places, of scarcely less attraction, are well worthy of being visited, and will very amply repay the trouble required by visiting them. Leaving, however, most of these objects of attraction to the very general, and, of course, solely laudatory description of them contained PHILADELPHIA. 271 ;t. There is lich they are is north and lie those run- i, as Walnut, ad been laid to ascertain as to render lose his way jt Street — so in it is de- h. a name an ;al ones, you he unvarying shaded with planted, over ght be advan- the towns of Philadelphia the city seem at constitutes loss to find a proceeded to been honour- , carrying on etter was ad- nquiry that I side of a very re being con- e of four dif- interest the Water-works, House, which in which the Independence edifice, but )urpo8cs of a he institution objects, and being visited, visiting them. to the very lem contained in the guide-books, I shall here content myself "^r'-ch a few obser- vations on the Laurel-hill Cemetery and the Girard College, both because they are among the most recent of the additions to the Quaker City, and because they attracted most of my own attention during the time I spent in it. The cemetery at Laurel-hill, Philadelphia, stands at a little dis- tance from the city, and on the banks of the river Schuylkill. Even in America, a country certainly distinguished by the exceeding beauty of the last resting-places for the remains of the departed, it is one of the most singularly beautiful and appropriately quiet spots that fancy can conceive. It covers a large space of ground, very tastefully laid off and planted ; and, without containing any monuments of great or eclipsing excellence, it has some of exceeding beauty and touching pathos. On entering, the visitor from Scotland is gratified by meet- ing with Them's stone statues of Sir Walter Scott, and of Old Mor- tality with his pony, which have here found a resting-place on the other side of the Atlantic. The monuments are generally, if not exclusively, (for I remember not a single exception,) composed of the white marble which abounds in the neighbourhood, and which is exceedingly beautiful, although it does not seem to take on a very high polish. Among these monuments there are, as the reader may probably anticipate, the usual proportion of broken pitchers, shattered columns, quenched torches, sleeping lambs, weeping willows, and doves about to stretch their wings in flight, to be found in "uch places. Two tombs, erected to the memory of children, are beauti- ful in their simplicity. The one contains the simple inscription " Our Mary ;" while the other consists of a column on a basement with the Christian names of the three children to whose memory it is erected (as " Jane," " Charles," " Frederick,") engraven on it, each name within a wreath of sculptured flowers. On the top was the oft-repeated emblem of a sleeping lamb, and below was the quo- tation from Holy writ — " Of such is the kingdom of Heaven." The visitor to Philadelphia who omits to visit the cemetery at Laurel-hill will have cause to regret his omission. The institution called Girard College deserves separate mention, not only for the two reasons above assigned, but also on another and a different ground — viz., because of the controversy of which it has been made the text, as well in this country as in America. The Girard College, Philadelphia, is situated about a mile from the centre of the town. It is a handsome building of the Grecian character, consisting of a centre and two separate compartments on either side; the whole being surrounded by a wall, enclosing a apace of ground little short of fifty acres. The centre building is the one 272 PHILADELPHIA. which peculiarly constitutes the College, being devoted to the pur- poses of education. It is, indeed, a very magnificent pile, having a front of about two hundred and twenty feet in length, and being surrounded by thirty-four white marble pillars, supporting an entab- lature. The roof is of the same material as the walls of the build- ing. The erections on each side — in all four in number — are intended for the residence of the scholars, the teachers, and professors. The whole is a very handsome affair j but were I disposed to be critical, I would say that there appears to be an undue striving after an extra degree of plainness and stoical simplicity in some parts, which is not quite in keeping with the general unity of the design. On inquiring particularly into the history of this institution, chiefly with the view of comparing it with the many institutions similar in their general character which are to be found in my native comttry of Scotland, and particularly in Edinburgh, I had a copy of the will of " Stephen Girard, Esquire," put into my hands, accompanied by certain information, of which the following statements embodj the import : — Mr. Girard, who in his will describes himself as " mariner ^i* merchant," was born at Bordeaux, iu France, whency, in voiv e *r v life, ho proceeded first to the West Indies, and thereafter to iVew York, where he arrived somewhere about the year 1775,. Tr> the capacity of mate to a trading vessel. From New York, anu after passing through various scenes, and engaging in di Terent occup. ons, all of a very humble kind, Mr. Girard proceeded, in 1' ' ':', to j'h'ia- delphia, and commenced trade there, by keeping a kind of -' old curiosity shop" — dealing in old ir i and old rigging. It were foreign to the object of this book to folicnv h" ; creer minutely, nor would the doing so repay the labour : suflTuo it fo ? ly that, by industry and frugality, allied no doubt to iiigh intigvi^.y nad a far-seeing policy as a merchant, Mr. Girard rose to the position of one of the very first merchants and most opulent bankers in the country of his adoption^ or indeed in the world ; and accumulated so large a fortune that, at the time of his death, on 2Gth December, 1831, the pecuniary amount he left behind him was estimated at the sum of from twelve to thir- teen millions of dollars, or from about £2,500,000 to £2,708,333 sterling. To the end of his earthly career (and, although the dai'e of his birth is involved in some obscurity, his age, at the time of his death, could not have been much less than the patriarchal one of r.'"nef the build- are intended I professors, posed to be triving after some parts, the design, ition, chiefly IS similar in ,tive couKiry ^ of the will nnpanied by embodj the 'mariner sji* n voi'V eur'v ite-f to Fdw ; t,i. :•' T.uu c, ami after occiip. ons, 1?^ to j'ii,' la- nd of ■■' old were foreign r, nor would ndustry and ng policy as ho very first lis adoption y une that, at liary amo\mt elve to thir- £2,708,333 gh the date time of his chal one of I, that it is statistics of as business, servatiou is lecting men been Mr. Girard's fate to have been involved in business and engrossed with the affairs of time up to the last, the all-important hour, when the " golden bowl was broken and the silver cord loosed," and his spirit took its flight to the God that gave it, to render an account of the deeds done in the body ; and the fact that so it was may not, and should not, render any one a whit less sensible to Mr. Girard's services to the great cause of education, or to the many claims he has upon the gratitude of the inhabitants of his adopted country. But it is to my mind a strange circumstance to chronicle, as one that tends to increase the halo that attaches to a man's name, that to the eid of life he continued so much engrossed with the every- day business of a passing world — from which he was himself soon to pass away and " be no more for ever" — that he died with the harness of business on his back. Infinitely more to be desired would it have been for Mr. Girard, and would it be for all mankind, if, ere ^:oing hence, time were afforded, and were taken, to get quit of the " har- ness," and to consider the destiny of the unclothed spirit without distraction, and in the light of the future. This, however, is a digression. By his will, made in 1830, and after leaving sundry very splendid legacies and special bequests, Mr. Girard, after narrating that he had " been for a long time impressed with the importance of educating the poor, and of placing them, by the early cultivation of their minds and the development of their moral principles, above the many temp- tations 4o which through poverty and ignorance they are exposed j" and that he was " particularly desirous to provide, for such a number of poor male white children as can be trained in one institution, a better education, as well as a more comfortable maintenance, than they usually receive from the application of the public funds," be- queathed the entire residue of his princely estates to the may^r, aldermen, and citizens of Philadelphia, directing them, with o millions of dollars out of said residue, to erect and furnish an in^ u- tion or permanent college, with suitable out-buildings; and with instructions, after " the college and appurtenances shall have cen constructed and furnished," to apply " the income, issue, and profits of so much of said two millions of dollars as shall remain une> ended, in maintaining the college according to the testator's directions." By another section of the will, the free remainder of the residue of the estate is likewise bequeathed to form a permanent fund for certain expressed purposes, among which is " the further improve- ment and maintenance of the aforesaid college." Minute directions are given in the will regarding the male white orphans to be admitted into the institution— pi iority of claim being dependent on the lo I'ity of birth, in the order of (I) Philadelphia, (2) other parts of Penn- sylvania, (3) New York, uud (4) New Orleans ', and also particular 274 PHILADELPHIA. I and minute instructions are set forth, regarding the nature and style of the building or erection contemplated by the testator as the college to be built. As regards the latter, the general direction is, that in erecting it the trustees are to "avoid needless ornament, and to attend chiefly to the strength, convenience, and neatness of the whole/' It would require, I fear, considerable liberality and latitude of construction, to say that the building actually reared is in accord- ance either with the letter or the spirit of the instructions last quoted. The amount expended for building the college, (which, begun in May, 1833, was not completed till 13th November, 1847) was 1,933,878 dollars, (nearly £390,000 sterling y) so that there was very little of residue of the 2,000,000 of dollars to be applied in terms of the will. It appears from the will (which also judiciously provides that the boys are to wear no distinctive dress) that Mr. Girard contemplated affording accommodation and education for at least three hundred orphan boys, as he directs that " the building shall be suflBciently spacious for the residence and accommodation of at least three hun- dred scholars, and the requisite teachers and other persons ne- cessary in such an institution." When I visited it, about eighteen months a.fiei the completion of the building, the number of pupils enrolled was about one hundred. On looking over a list of them, I was soncwhat struck with the nv^nber of names of German origin. Such is a general account of the nature L..1 objects of tfce insti- tution called Girard College, Philadelphia, of which the traveller will hear much among tho^e who take a deep interest in the cause of education, (and ifc is simple justice to say that this party is a very numerous, a:i«"' a very powerful and operative one, in the Unit- ed States of America,) in the city itself, as well as in other parts of the Union. The mention of it will, in general, be either highly laudatory, or very much the reverse, just in accordance with the views of the speaker or of the society, on the much agitated question of the propriety or impropriety of separating or associating secular and religious instruction. But the sketch iti^elf would not be com- plex i were I not to notice another peculiarity of JNIr. Girard's will, the reason of which will best explain the cause of the difference of opinion to which I have thus alluded. My attention was somewhat rudely drawn to the peculiarity referred to, from finding that the word " lieverend'' on the card of a compaynon Jo clergyman of any denomination can get within the walls. By Mr. (jirarJs will it is provided, — "Secondly, I enjoin and reijuire that no ecclesiastic, missionary, or minister, of any sect whatsoever, shall evvr hold or cxcrci&o any station or duty PHILADELPHIA. 275 iture and style • as the college ion is, that in anient, and to jatness of the ;y and latitude id is in accord- ns last quoted, liich, begun in jr, 1847) was that there was be applied in )vides that the I contemplated three hundred be suflSciently jast three hun- ir persons ne- ibout eighteen nber of pupils I list of them, ps of German ts of tfce insti- the traveller st in the cause bis party is a 3, in the Unit- other parts of either highly anco with the tated question nating secular d not be com- Girard's will, 3 difference of was somewhat ding that the '(Kje, was suffi- )yny me on a ation can get — "Secondly, r minister, of tation or duty wbatever in the said college, nor shall any parson ever be admitted for any purpose, or as a visitor, within the premises appropriated to the said college." There can be no mistake about the sweeping nature of this exclusion, but it is only fair to say that Mr. Girard adds immediately — " In making this restriction, I do not mean to cast any reflection upon any sect or person whatever ; but, as there is such a multitude of sects, and such a diversity of opinion amongst them, I desire to keep the tender minds of the orphans who are to derive advantage from this bequest free from the excitement which clashing doctrines and sectarian controversy are so apt to produce. My desire is that all the instructors and teachers in the college shall take pains to instil into the minds of the scholars the purest princi- ples of morality; so that, on their entrance into active life, they may, from inclination and habit, evince benevolence towards their fellow creatures, and a love of truth, sobriety, and industry, adopt- ing, at the same time, such religious teiets as their matured reason may enable them to prefer." That such an exclusion, adopted and vindicated on such views, and when taken in connexion with the great national institute of which their author was the founder, should have excited some attention, and led to much discussion, is only what was natural, and what might have been predicted. And it is also, perhaps, only whai, was to be expected, that, in the controversy they elicited, the real intenti(,tns of the benevolent testator have been as much understated on the one side as overstated on the other. At all events, so it is. Those among what mar be termed the religious classes, who defend the before-quoted provisions of Mr. Girard's will, aflBrm that it was any- thing but his wish or intention to exclude religion — the religion of the Bible and Christianity — from its proper and prominent place in the curriculum of education, (and certainly the practice in the insti- tution favours this view;) and that his intention merely was to pro- tect the educational establishment he had left behind him from all chance of being made an arena for discussing the conflicting tenets of mere sectarians and controversialists, who, with little of real reli- gion to recommend them, are fond of parading their dogmas on all points of an ecclesiastical nature. While those on the other hand among the same classes, who unqualifiedly condemn Mr. Girard, both for the exclusion and the reason assigned in defence of it, as unqualifiedly maintain that the spirit, if not the letter, of his will, is to exclude religion altogether from his estimate of that education which was in his opinion to fit the recipients of his bounty, " on their entrance into active life, from inclination and habit, to prac- tise benevolence towards their fellow creatures, and a love of truth, sobriety, and industry." 276 PHILADELPHIA. As usual, the truth will be found to lie somewhere between the two extremes. On the one hand, there is nothing certainly in Mr. Girard's will to lead necessarily to the conclusion that he meant to exclude the Bible, and the religion of the Bible, from the curri- culum of education which he contemplated his orphans receiving. On the contrary, it might be reasoned that his expressing it to be his desire, that the education given should be such as would instil into the minds of the scholars the purest principles of morality^ amounted to a recognition of the Scriptures as a text-book — inas- much as it is the testimony even of infidels, that nowhere are there to be found nobler principles of morality inculcated on motives so disinterested or so lofty. And the practice of the institution, both as to the use of the Bible and the use of prayers, seems to corrobo- rate this view of the matter. But there is surely much to be said on the other side of the ques- tion, and with greater effect. If Mr. Girard's will permits the use of the Bible as a text-book, it permits also its utter exclusion. It repudiates altogether the principle of the Divine injunction, commu- nicated to his chosen people through the instrumentality of the He- brew lawgiver, which immediately follows the covenant made in Horeb, and the enumeration of the precepts of the moral law, as there given, and which is in these words — " Thou shalt teach them diligently unto thy children, and shall talk of them when thou sit- test in thine house, and when thou walkest by the way, and when thou liest down, and when thou risest up." Again, if the provision in question admits of the charitable con- struction, that its author meant not to question the necessity of an early u . luaintance with the religion of the Bible, or even to deny that there was such a unity of doctrinal faith and of agreement, in all great and essential points, among the truly evangelical churches, as permitted tlie teaching of Christianity, and of the theology of Christianity, as part of the curriculum of education, without its necessarily involving mere sectarianism; yet certainly the con- struction is only permissible and not imperative. Nay, there is much in the words used to discountenance it. The purest princi- ples of morality are best taught in the revealed word of God. The best way of imparting habits of benevolence, truth, sobriety, and industry, is to inculcate from early life the pure precepts of that gospel which declares the law to be, to lov^e G od with all our heart, and our neighbour as ourselves. And, moreover, Mr. Girard's tJieory labours under this obvious and important imperfection, that, while it contemplates the formation of religious tenets only after the party shall have arrived at mature reason, it fails either to provide for those who die ere that undefined and undefinable period PHILADELPHIA. 277 ere between the ing certainly in }Q that he meant I, from the eurri- rphans receiving, pressing it to be I as would instil les of morality f text-book — inas- where are there id on motives so institution, both eems to corrobo- side of the ques- permits the use r exclusion. It mction, commu- ality of the He- 'enant made in le moral law, as halt teach them when thou sit- way, and when charitable con- necessity of an r even to deny "agreement, in ilical churches, he theology of on, without its ainly the con- Nay, there is ) purest princi- l of God. The , sobriety, and ■ecepts of that L all our heart, Mr. Girard's 3rfection, that, lets only after fiiils either to efiuable period of life is arrived at, or to take advantage of the flexibility and im- pressibility of the youthful mind to lead it in paths, or to impress it with ideas, that have a religious direction and tendency. I have been induced to make these remarks on this somewhat singular feature of Mr. Girard's will, because of the great amount of controversy which the subject seemed to excite among a certain class in America, and also because I have heard it commented on, even by Americans, in this country, in such a way as was calcu- lated to give an unjust, because too unfavourable a view of it. That clergymen should not like either the exclusion, or the grounds of it, is natural enough ; and, apart from all religious considera- tions, I am free to confess that I so much prefer the moderate in- troduction of men of clerical calling into secular affairs, to their total exclusion therefrom, that I would rather choose that two or three of different persuasions had formed members of tlie board of direction of Girard College, than that they had been each and all of them totally excluded. But the exclusion of ecclesiastics does not necessarily amount to the exclusion of religion Neither does the expression ',of a resolution that the objects of bis bounty should be kept free from the contamination of sectarian controversy, on the subject of religion, extend to a resolution to extrude Christian theology from the curriculum, or the Bible from the school-room ; and therefore do I conclude as I set out, by expressing it to be my opinion, that the truth as regards this vexed question of the infidel tendency of Mr. Girard's bequest, lies between the extremes of the parties by whom he is lauded and condemned. There is another and a minor peculiarity in Mr. Girard's bequest, in the indifference he shows towards the claims of the classical literature of Greece and of Rome. While he makes the tuition of the French and Spanish languages imperative, he says, in a pa- renthesis, of the tongues in which Homer and Virgil sang, and Demosthenes and Cicero spoke, <' I do not forbid, but I do not recommend, the Greek and Latin languages." Whether, in other respects, the Girard College, as at present constituted, in terms of the will, is destined to produce the bene- ficial effects its benevolent author intended, and his sanguine ad- mirers expect, is another and a different question. On expressing to an intelligent friend in Philadelphia, who takes a deep interest in the cause of education generally, and of this educational insti- tute in particular, my idea that there was an opinion gathering strength in my native country of Scotland, that this class of insti- tutions had not been so very successful in producing even the pro- portion of well-educated men that might have been anticipated, and that the fact that they had been so was to be ascribed to the sepa- ration of the boys from the general community, the severance of 24 278 BALTIMORE. everything like domestic ties, and consequently the somewhat monkish feelings of seclusion formed in the course of education, I observed that there was on his lips a smile of incredulity, as per- ceptible as politeness would permit it to be, and I accordingly went no farther into the argument. Time, however, will show whether Mr. Girard's benevolent intentions are to be realized ; meanwhile, it is only a fitting tribute to pay to his memory to say, that the idea and its realization reflect honour on his name, prove him to have been in heart a philanthropist, and entitle him to be regarded as among the benefactors of the human race. As from New York to Philadelphia, so from Philadelphia to Baltimore, there are two routes of travel, the one along the Dela- ware to Newcastle, thence by railway to French Town, (on Elk river,) through Elk river and Chesapeake Bay, past the mouth of the Susquehanna, and up the river Patapsco to Baltimore ; the other direct by the Wilmington and Baltimore railway, which crosses the Susquehanna. There is little ground for choice between the two, though perhaps the steamboat route is the one which will afibrd a stranger the greatest gratification, particularly as it afi"ords an opportunity for seeing the entrance to the harbour of Baltimore, which is very fine. BALTIMORE. The visitor, for the first time, cannot fail to be much and agree- ably struck with the position and appearance of the town of Balti- more. As is generally known, the territory forming the state of Maryland, of which Baltimore is the capital, was so named in honour of the Queen of England, Henrietta Maria, daughter of Henry IV. of France, and wife of Charles I. of England. The district was constituted a palatinate under a charter granted to Lord Baltimore, (from whom, of course, the town derives its name,) and was first colonised in 1633 by about two hundred English emigrants. At present the state of Maryland contains about half a million, and the town about one hundred and fifty thousand, inhabitants. The latter stands imposingly on a rising ground on the bank of the river Pa- tapsco, not many miles from the head of Chesap-jake Bay; and whether I recall its position, its public buildings, the general cleanly appearance of itr< streets, or the many fair faces and graceful forms I was privileged to see during my brief stay in it, Baltimore rises to my recollection with a very favourable impression. Unquestion- ably the town of Baltimore is finely situated, and the ladies of Bal- timore are very beautiful. The public buildings and other erections visited by me were — (1) the Roman Catholic Cathedral, a large granite building in the Ionic style, containing two good paintings of the somewhat f education, I dulity, as per- jordingly went show whether I; meanwhile, say, that the , prove him to to be regarded hiladelphia to long the Dela- ?own, (on Elk the mouth of laltimore ; the ailway, which ;hoice between me which will ly as it affords r of Baltimore, jch and agree- town of Balti- y the state of med in honour of Henry IV. e district was ird Baltimore, and was first [111 grants. At illion, and the is. The latter the river Pa- ke Bay; and eneral cleanly graceful forms altimore rises Unquestion- ladies of Bal- »ther erections edral, a large d paintings of BALTIMORE. 279 royal gift — one the Descent from the Cross, by Puelin Guelin, pre- sented to the cathedral by Louis XVI., of France, and the other representing St. Louis burying his officers and soldiers who were slain before Tunis, presented by Charles X., likewise also of France ; and containing also the largest organ in the United States — an organ which has six thousand stops and fifty-six pipes : (2) the Merchants' Exchange, of which the colonnades at the extremities struck me as being in good taste : (3) the Baltimore Museum : (4) the Battle Monument, erected in honour of the men who fell in defence of Baltimore in 1811, which appeared to me a work too elaborate in its design, wanting in simplicity, and displaying but little taste : and (5) the monument erected by the State to the memory of the illustrious "Washington. But, following the example I have already set myself, it is not my intention to say more than has been already done of any of them except the last; and truly the Washington monument of Baltimore deserves a special consideration. From the number of mcnuments it contains, Baltimore has been called the Monumental City, and, in so far as America at least is concerned, it would be entitled to the distinction were it only because it contains this noble structure to the greatest of America's sons and statesmen. The monument itself, together with the colossal statue on the summit of it, is composed of white marble. It stands on an eminence, and is therefore well exposed to view in every direction, and it consists of a square base surmounted by a round column of twenty feet in diameter. The base is fifty feet square by twenty-four feet high, and the column (statue mcluded) is one hun- dred and eighty feet in height. Appropriate and neat short inscrip- tions, descriptive of the principal incidents in Washington's eventful life, are inscribed on the sides of the basement. The column is hollow, and there is a stair inside, by means of which the visitor may ascend to the summit, and obtain by so doing a superb view of Baltimore and its environs. Altogether the monument to Washing- ton, at Baltimore, is worthy of the state that reared it, and of the great man whose patriotic services it is designed to commemorate. I have a great veneration for the name of Washington; and sure I am that, were his principles more paramount in the republic of his creation, there would not be so large a display of that intensely self- ish democratic feeling of which European travellers often, and it is to be feared ofttimes justly, complain. Washington was a republican, but he was no democrat. Indeed, few men of eminence have ex- pressed themselves more strongly on the dangers of democracy. Similar circumstances produce similar results, and human nature, amidst all its varieties, is ever the same. Thus it is that the Wash- ington monument of Baltimore, like the better known London Monument of the modern Babylon, has found favour as a place IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7. 1.0 I.I 1.25 l^|2B |2.5 "t li£ 12.0 12.2 U 11.6 — 6" I 0% n ^>. ^^•^ .'» Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STHIT WnSTIR.N.Y. I4SM (716)I72-450T 280 WASHINGTON. yrhence to accomplish their mad desires, or end their worldly sorrows, by the insane and the wretched. Of late years, several instances have occurred of persons throwing themselves from the top of the Washington Monument at Baltimore. In the majority of instances, these victims of madness or of misery have been females. The dis ance from Baltimore to Washington, the inadequate capi- tal of the United States of America, is only forty miles, and it is now traversed by a railroad. On the occasion when I travelled it, the journey occupied three hours ; but nearly one-third of that time Tas lost, through the circumstance of the tender carriage attached to the steam-engine having gone ofT the rails, dragging the two sue* ceeding passenger carriages along with it. The passengers made a very narrow escape ; for, moderate as the speed was, it is little less than miraculous that none of the carriages were overturned. As it was, no personal injury was sustained ; and the only real consequence was, our arriving somewhat luter than we were expected at the metropolitan city of WASHINGTON, the capital of the United States of America. And how unlike a capital city! Previous descriptions had prepared me for finding Waphington anything but a fine town. Mr. Dickens' humorous portraiture of it, as " a city of magnificent intentions," had amused me, and I thought I was somewhat prepared for the scene itself. But the preparation was insufficient : after all, I was disappointed — exceedingly disappointed. It was not that Washington was smaller than I expected : on the contrary, it covered more ground than my preconception had led me to expect. It was not that the public buildings were inferior to wh»t I had calculated on : on the contrary, they were finer — the noble Capitol infinitely finer — than I had visioned in my mind's eye. Indeed, it is difficult to say exactly why I was so disappointed at the first sight of the city of Washing- t(>u. Describing my feelings as graphically as I can, I would say it was at the general village-like appearance of the whole place. And yet even this remark requires much qualification. It was like a large village, and yet it was not. It was like a village in the wide- ncss of its road-like badly-paved streets, and in the contrariety in the styles of the difiierent buildings of which it was composed. But it was very unlike a village, as well in the size and stateliness of most of these buildings, as in the style of the persons and vehicles which were moving along its avenues ; and assuredly, when, from whatever point of view, the eye rested on the stately Capitol, the village idea received a check which melted it into thin air. But it is only when attention is confined to Washington as a WASHINGTON. 281 worldly sorrows, everal instances I the top of the ity of instances, males. inadequate capi- mile's, and it is Q I ti-avelled it, lird of that time arriage attached Ing the two sue* jsengers made a i, it is little less $rturned. As it real consequence szpected at the id how unlike a me for finding kens' humorous IS,'' had amused the scene itself. ras disappointed Washington was ed more ground ras not that the ited on : on the ly finer — than I t to say exactly ity of Washing- I would say it 3le place. And It was like a ge in the wide- e contrariety in somposod. But d stateliness of ns and vehicles ly, when, from jly Capitol, the n air. ishingtoQ as a town, that disappointment is, or can be, fairly felt; and after all, is there not something unreasonable, as well as unphilosophical, in the idea which necessarily connects a seat of government with a large city ? That capitals are generally large towns is very true, and thus natural it is that, when proceeding to visit the capital of a great nation, like the United States of America, the mind is made up for finding it an extensive, as well as an important place. But is it necessary, or even expedient, that largeness of extent, or of population, should be one of its characteristics ? and is it not simply because, in this respect, Washington disappoints expecta- tions raised on insufficient bases, that one feels the dissatisfaction with its general appearance which has been already described ? In 1800, when Washington was made the seat of the United States' Government, there were several large cities in the American Union, any of which might have been selected for capital honours. The town of Baltimore itself is distant not more than forty miles from the site selected ; but the approvers of Washington as a cen- tral and separate, though new point, whence to issue the acts of national legislation, made choice of none of these large towns; and the opinions of such men as Washington, Madison, and Lee, particularly on such a question, must surely be admitted to out- weigh all other evidence, and be considered decisive as to the fit- ness of the spot, (city or no city,) for the end to which it was intended. Moreover, it was in part the fear of dangers incidental to large towns that influenced many of the friends of the new site. In 1783, the United States' Congress were grossly insulted by a mutinous and riotous mob at Philadelphia, which the state autho- rities and forces were unable to quell ; and were compelled, for the prosecution of their deliberations, to adjourn to the halls of the college at Princetown. This circumstance must hare powerfully impressed the then American statesmen with a sense of the danger to their institutions which might arise from the dominant influence of the mob, particularly in a country tending to democi-acy, and in which the national military force was but small. It must also have tended in no inconsiderable degree to facilitate the carrying, in 1790, of the resolution under which the district of Columbia, on the banks of the Potomac, was laid ofi" — surrendered by Maryland and Virginia — and ceded to the general government for the pur- poses of the Union. Originally this district was ten miles square, but it is now much smaller, in consequence of the portion of land ceded by the state of Virginia having been returned to that state again, by the wish, or with the consent, as I believe, of the inhabi tants of the ceded portion, who found that the honour of belonging to the metropolitan district but ill compensated for having their local affairs and interests neglected, while their rulers were looking 24* 282 WASHINGTON. after the more commanding and pressing interests of the whole Union, and conducting the business of the general government. With the exception of the Capitol, the only public buildings in Washington which seemed to mo likely to attract attention, from their possession of any amount of architectural beauty, are the President's house, ("attractive not so much either on account of its size or beauty, but oecause it is the state residence of the head of the Republic,) the Patent Ofl&ce, and the Treasury. The town man- sion of the President of the United States — the White House, as it is most frequentl}'^, and from its colour, culled — is a plain neat building, not unlike the seat of a rfch English country gentleman, beautifully situated on the banks of the river Potomac, and sur- rounded by indiflFerently kept grounds, extending to about twenty The Patent Office is a handsome, extensive, but unfinished acres. edifice with a Doric portico ; and the Treasury is a very striking as well as an exceedingly handsome erection, having a Grecian front with a colonnade of about 460 feet in length. And now for a few sentences on the capital of the capital. In the opinion of many Americans, this erection is considered not merely the finest building in the United States of America, but not inferior to any senate-house in the world ; and although I can- not subscribe to so sweeping a eulogium — and it is impossible for any British subject to do so — ^I certainly do think, and unhesitat- ingly say, that the Capitol of Washington is a very imposing as well as a very beautiful piece of architecture. Covering as it does an area of an acre and a half, with a frontage (wings included) of 352 feet, of the height (to the top of the dome) of 120 feet, and standing on a site of considerable elevation above the level of the surrounding country, the Capitol is a very magnificent object from whatever side it is viewed. And it returns the compliment ; for the finest and most perfect view, not only of the city of Washing- ton, but of the whole circumjacent country, is to be obtained from the dome of the Capitol. This view is really superb, and it is only from this view that one can get anything like a definite idea of the magnificent intentions of the aspiring Frenchman by whom the city of Washington was originally designed. Walking along the road-like streets, it is impossible to get any such graphic idea. They are not like streets : they are unlike, from the insufficiency of the paving. Indeed, with the exception of Pennsylvania Avenue, few of them are paved in any way. They are also unlike from their excessive breadth. With roads which are too broad for streets, and too narrow for squares, there is a singular want of con- nexion among the streets and houses of the city of Washington. The interior of the Capitol is plain, but still in harmony with the nobility of the exterior. The Chamber of Representatives is a semi- m WASHINGTON. 283 of the whole jovernment. B buildings in ttention, from eauty, are the account of its of the head of rhe town man- lite House, as is a plain neat bry gentleman, >mac, and sur- about twenty but unfinished ery striking as Grecian front le capital. In considered not ■ America, but ilthough I can- impossible for and unhesitat- •y imposing as iring as it does ;s included) of 120 feet, and le level of the nt object from mpliment; for y of Washing- obtained from and it is only ite idea of the by whom the ing along the graphic idea, insufficiency Pennsylvania ire also unlike too broad for r want of con- \^ashington. nony with the ives is a semi- circular room, spacious and lofty, and lighted from above ; and the Senate Chamber, on the opposite side of the building, is a somewhat smaller room of the same shape. Both are fine as well as imposing in their proportions, and both seem to me excellently adapted for the purposes to which they are devoted. In a different part of the build- ing is the library of Congress, a neat comfortable room of no great size, said to contain some thirty thousand volumes — a handsome number indeed, all circumstances considered, but scarcely worth being chronicled, and communicated as a distinction, when it is re- membered that there are nearly thirty libraries in Europe each con- taining fully a hundred thousand volumes, or more ; while the library of the British Museum at London, though only the fourth in Europe in point of extent, contains the extraordinary number of 435,000 volumes. It is, however, not a bad sign of the intelligence of a na- tion to find them boasting of the extent of their libraries ; and, when in the United States, I have often heard what has been called Jona- than's national sin (a habit of boasting) developing itself in a much less defensible and a much more offensive way, though certainly not from the lips of any of the intelligent of America's sons. In the lower part of the building, and near the United States' Court Hall, my attention was much struck by what I find I have noted as the American School of Architecture. If the invention of an American, it may fairly be so called. The objects alluded to are several columns or pillars, fashioned to represent bundles of Indian corn stalks, and having capitals representing the grain partially strip- ped, ripe, and open. The effect is fine, and I should like much to see the design carried out in the erection of a building. The chief attraction of the interior of the Capitol of Washington, is the Botunda, or entrance-hall, situated under the dome in the cen- tre of the building. This Botunda is ninety-five feet in diameter as well as in height, and on the walls of it are six pictures of large size — twelve feet by eighteen. These large paintings severally represent The Declaration of Independence, The Surrender of Burgoyne, The Surrender of Comwallis, Washington resigning his Commission, The Baptism of Pochahontas, and The Embarkation of the Pilgrim Fa- thers at Plymouth in England, in the little Mayflower. When I vi- sited the scene, there was also a likeness of the President, General Taylor, exbibited in this hall. Of the accuracy and excellence of this painting, not only as a picture but as a good likeness, I had an after as rell as an excellent opportunity of judging. With reference to the second and third of the pictures thus enu- merated as ornamenting the Botunda of the United States' Capitol, I may, as a British subject, be permitted to question the excellence of the taste which selected for such a purpose two scenes from one side of a war, that afforded so many incidents of a conflicting cha- «nl 'i;; ;i 284 WASHINGTON. racter. Looking to the fact that, in this very War of Independence, there were so many instances which might bo made the subject of pictorial representation to the effect of exciting feelings of a different kind, and also to the fact that so large a party in Great Britain, in- cluding the best and most independent of British statesmen, espoused and advocated the cause of American Independence, even in the Brit- ish Senate itself, (a fact so well recognised in the States, that I find the following to be one of the printed questions put to the students in history in the common schools in Cincinnati, at the examination for the year ending 80th June 1848, " What British Statesman was conspicuous in espousing the cause of the colonies in Parliament ?") more truthful as well as more tasteful embellishments might have been selected. But let not my American friends misunderstand me. I make no complaint of their commemorating, in every possible way, their struggle for independence, and the issue of it. That is not only natural, but noble ; and the well-known fact that the war which led to that issue was the most unpopular in Great Britain of any that the British Government ever engaged in, should enhance, instead of detracting from, the pleasure of the commemoration. What I alone complain of is, the selecting, for such national commemoration, indi- vidual scenes of personal humiliation out of the numberless incidents of a checkered warfare, conducted against British colonists by the British Government, contrary to the wishes of a large body (if not the majority) of the nation, and notwithstanding the opinions, the re onstrances, and the vaticinations of the illustrious and venerable Lord Chatham, and of a long list of British statesmen of world-re- nowned eminence. But having resolved so to commemorate the war in question, nothing can be said against the choice of the subjects, particularly by a nation whose places of public resort, and even the streets and squares of whose towns, are filled with mementos, in names, in paintings, and in memorials, commemorative of the many victories by land and by sea which go to make what has been so long considered the national laurels of England. Although the act of Burgoyne (in delivering up the force under his charge) was compelled by circumstances, and accompanied by a condition of safe conduct that entitle it to be regarded rather as a " capitulation" than as a " surrender", there can be no objection to the use of the latter term if its employment gratifies our American friends. Nor can it be objected that they should make choice of this event, and of the sub- sequent one of Lord Cornwallis's surrender of his array of six thou- sand men, to the combined forces of France and of America, in pre- ferenc3 to choosing a subject for representation from such scenes as the taking of New York, the battle of Germantown, the siege of Ticonderago, the battle of Briars Creek, or even the less decisive affair of Bunker's Hill, or, indeed, any of the varied scenes of the WASHINGTON. ' Independence, the subject of ;8 of a different eat Britain, in- smen, espoused ven in the Brit- ites, that I find to the students he examination Statesman was Parliament?") its might have lunderstand me. ry possible way. That is not only 3 war which led lin of any that ance, instead of , What I alone emoration, indi- berless incidents solonists by the re body (if not le opinions, the s and venerable en of world-re- morate the war f the subjects, and even the mementos, in re of the many ^as been so long igh the act of was compelled ^f safe conduct lion" than as a I the latter term I Nor can it be land of the sub- ly of six thou- Imerica, in pre- Isuch scenes as In, the siege of le less decisive scenes of the 285 unfortunate and unnatural contest in which the tide of success be- tween the Royalists and the Independents so often fluctuated. When upon the subject of the extent of the desire shown by some of our American brethren to over-estimate the doings and daring of their ancestors in the War of Independence, or to obtrude unnecessa- rily, and with but little taste, the topic in the presence of a British subject, I may be permitted to make a remark which has often oc- curred to me in reference to the American Declaration of Indepen- dence. Few documents are so vaunted by our transatlantic brethren, and few documents deserve to be so lauded, if it be regarded simply as the crowning act of a nation's struggle for liberty. But viewed with reference to the contents of the document itself, I have said, and I do say, that it is very far from containing either an accurate or a dignified statement of the causes which led to the violent separa- tion of the American colonies from the parent state. In particular, it charges upon the King of Great Britain, as an individual, griev- ances and complaints, and a refusal to give redress, which the framer of the act himself knew well were the results of the doings, not of the king, but of the ministry. Not only so, the Declaration of American Independenc3 charge the King of Great Britain with crimes and with conduct, with acts of cruelty and of perfidy, of which there is not even the shadow of a pretence for alleging him to have been guilty. In adhoring to and supporting a ministry who persisted in carrying on a war with our then colonies, notwithstanding one of the most powerful and talented oppositions that any ministry ever had to encounter in the British senate, and even after that war had been shown to be unpopular, and distasteful to the great mass of the nation, George III. did undoubtedly act unwisely. But the act of carrying on the war was that of his ministers, not of himself: and the framer and approvers of the American Declaration themselves knew well, as statesmen, that in a constitutional country like Eng- land such was necessarily the fact. Why, then, was not the state- ment framed in accordance with the fact ? I fear the alone answer is, because, in the then state of the public mind, both in America and in Great Britain, it secured more sympathy to affect to represent the contest as invoked, caused, and consummated in the manner it had been, through the headstrong tyranny of a wayward and unfeel- ing despot. But George III. was no despot ; and, whatever his other faults or failings, cruelty and perfidy cannot with truth be classed among them. The matters and scenes above referred to, however, are now long bygone, with the generation in whose time they were transacted. The incidents connected with them have become matters of history, on which future generations will pass their verdict ; and whoever was to blame— either in the beginning, in the conduct, or in regard to the 286 WASHINGTON. issue — the wise of both countries seem to be agreed in this, that it is fortunate, both for the parent state and the severed colony, that the separation took place at the time, if not in the manner in which it did. In the immediate vicinity of the Capitol of Washington stands a gigantic statue to the memory of him who has given his name to the city. The inscription on this monument is dignified and simple. On the one side " First in war," on the other, " First in peace." The statute is colossal, and the attitude striking. Measures are like« wise now in progress for erecting in the capital a national testimonial, on a very extensive scale, to commemorate the services and virtues of this the greatest of the framerc and defenders of the American confederation. A transition from the description of the capital of a nation, to the consideration of the form of government, is so natural, that explana- tion of motives for the introduction of the latter subject were unne- cessary, did not the obvious importance of the topic justify the men- tion of the fact, that the views to be now recorded are the results, not merely of impressions formed when in America, and from what I saw there, but of a study of the republican constitution of the United States, years before I put my foot on their shores. Before visiting the great republic, I enjoyed some acquaintance with the writings of its distinguished jurists. I had read myself into the belief that the constitution of the Federal Union of America ranked very high among the achievements of modern wisdom. A close inspection of the machinery in actual operation has not dispelled this opinion, although it has modified it on all points, and corrected it in some. When, in the year 1787, twelve years after their Declaration of Independence, the deputies of the then United States of America finally agreed to and subscribed the Deed of Constitution, a course was adventured on, and a form of government ratified, for which there was no favourable prestige in the history of the past. Confederated republics have never yet reached an old age of national existence. Not to occupy time and space by more than a passing allusion to federal unions obscurely mentioned in the pages of more ancient his- tory, it suffices here to refer to that of the Grecian republics, whose early dissolution arose more from the corroding influences of internal jea- lousy, and from conflicting interests, than from the violent tiSsaultg of foreign aggression ; or to the confederation of the United Provinces of Holland in later days, which only found an end to domestic dis- sension by taking refuge in a monarchical form of government. It was not, therefore, in the light of the past that the fathers and framers of the American constitution could gather their hope of per- manency for their young republic. They adhered, however, to their resolution to form a united confedeiation ; and prejudice itself cannot deny that nobly was that resolve carried into execution. Nay more, UNITED STATES' CONSTITUTION. 287 in this, that it is colony, that the * in which it did. tington stands a his name to the led and simple. First in peace." Measures are like- onal testimonial, dees and virtues )f the American a nation, to the i\, that explana- )ject were unne- jastify the men- are the results, ind from what I m of the United Before visiting 1 the writings of le belief that the nked very high »se inspection of )d this opinion, 3d it in some, r Declaration of ites of America tution, a course for which there Confederated ional existence, sing allusion to lore ancient his- ics, whose early of internal jea- violent assaults nited Provinces domestic dis- )vernment. the fathers and eir hope of per- owever, to their ice itself cannot »n. Nay more, if ever a republican form of government was to succeed, it was surely in such circumstances as were here combined. Never, in the annals of the world, was the experiment made under happier auspices, or with brighter and better founded hopes. One solitary cloud dimmed the azure brightness of the horizon of *the young republic. The ex- istence of slavery, in about one moiety of the States, was the only source whence there could be dread of danger to the constitution ; and, " small as a man's hand'' as that cloud was, it could only be the far-seeing who could from it derive the presentiment, that something might yet occur to raise a conflict of interests and of views sufficient to put an end to the close union and entire harmony that, in 1787, bound together the confederated states. Otherwise, all bade fair for future domestic peace and weal. The authors of the constitutional articles were men of cool heads and patriot hearts ; and the tender republic was to be tried on a clear stage, in a new world, and afar from those conflicting elements of kingly or of oligarchical growth, which might have impeded its development had the formation of a confederated republic been attempted in any part of Europe. Nay more — the success of the experiment has, up to the present hour, justified the anticipations of the authors of the American constitu- tion ; and I entertain a strong opinion that, if from any source serious danger menaces the confederacy of the United States, and threatens to disturb its integrity, this fact arises more from the efiect of inroads which have from time to time been made on the principles of ;he constitution, than from any defect inherent in that document itse!f. I have said that, from a somewhat early period of my life, I had been a student of the constitution of the United States, and that, although not an advocate for republican forms of government in the abstract, I had, ere I visited the Union, formed a high opinion of its wisdom. Indeed, it would be difiicult to frame a more complete form of re- publican government than that of the American Federal Union ; or to point out a case of difficulty which is not comprehended, and provided for, in some part or other of the seven articles of the con- stitution of the United States, or of the amendments thereon. In republican theory, it is perfect. But has it been as perfect in its operation or execution ? It certainly has not j and the reason it has not been so is, in the opinion of the writer, to be found, not in any defects in the constitution itself, but in the manner in which its work- ing has been interfered with by conflicting claims, set up by indi- vidual states, on the general plea and principle that, in joining the Union, they had reserved their independency. In particular, the nullification doctrine strangely but ably advocated by Mr. Calhoun, as the organ and mouthpiece of the Southern States, and, since his declaration of it, resorted to on every occasion of a difference between the general government and an individual state — ofttimes for the 288 UNITED STATES' CONSTITUTION. most unworthy of party purposes — strikes at the very vitals of the constitution of the United States of America. By that doctrine it is maintained that, when the federal government^ sitting in Congress, shall pass a law which, in the opinion of any individual state, exceeds the powers conferred by the' constitution, it is the province, and within the power, of the legislature of that state to stay the progress of the law, by declaring it to bo of no eflfect — by nullifying its opera- tion within such state's own particular territories. It is true that the existence of this alleged state right has never been formally re- cognised; indeed, to some extent it has been repudiated by the gene- ral government. One of the most brilliant efforts of the truly great Webster has been devoted to illustrating its incompatibility with the very existence of the general government. But the snake is scotched, not killed. From time to time it is constantly recurring and rearing up its head, impeding the action of the legislature, and destroying the supremacy of the constitution. Great Britain treated with the United States' Government relative to the amicable settlement of a question of boundary, of little value to the Kepublic, and still less to England. A reference of the dispute was made between the two high contracting parties. But the negotiations were almost marred, and the two countries nearly involved in warfare about some miles of mountain land, because of the interposition of a third party or negotiant in the independent state of Maine ! Again, the federal government of the United States established a tariff; but the terms of it pleased not the State of South Carolina, and that independent member of the ill-cemented body politic disapproved of, and conse- quently nullified the law. The consequence was an alteration of the general tariff, to conciliate one recusant or refractory state, and (for at the time it seemed a probable thing, from the attitude assumed by the powerful State of South Carolina) prevent the possibility of an internecine war. Instances to the same effect might be multiplied, but these two suffice to illustrate the general position which is at present the alone object in view. But it is no defect in the " constitution of the United States" that gives rise to these and to other difficulties in its practical working. All the consideration I can give the subject leads to the conclusion that, apart from the general question of slavery, which is one per se, the only source of embarrassment is, that while, by the letter of the constitution, sufficient powers have been conferred on the general government, that spirit of party which is the bane of any country, and especially of America — in which there is always so numerous an army of placemen, hangers-on, and expect- ants — has led to the putting forth, on the part of individual states, of claims to a degree of "independence" and "reserved right," which is absolutely incompatible with the full, free exercise of the sry vitals of the lat doctriDO it is ing in Congress, lal state, exceeds e province, and }tay the progress lifying its opera- It is true that jeen formally re- ited by the gene- )f the truly great atibility with the snake is scotched, rring and rearing I, and destroying treated with the e settlement of a blic, and still less ) between the two ■e almost marred, about some miles ' a third party or ^.gain, the federal flfj but the terms that independent jed of, and conse- 1 alteration of the try state, and (for titude assumed by possibility of an ht be multiplied, ition which is at ! United States" s in its practical bject leads to the of slavery, which is, that while, by 70 been conferred rhich is the bane which there is s-ou, and expect- individual states, reserved right," ee exercise of the UNITED STATES' CONSTITUTION. 289 powers conferred %y the constitution upon the central government. To give power to arrange all matters of " duties, imposts, and ex- cises," is of no great use, provided those to be most affected by their operations are to be entitled to declare the arrangements null after they have been made. To be authorized to make treaties, and " regulate commerce with foreign nations," is of little avail, if the individual member of the confederation whose territory may be most affected by the treaty or regulation is entitled to interpose its veto, or equally effective refusal of accession or acquiescence. And authority " to establish post-offices, and make post-roads," is but an empty permission, if the general government are not per- mitted to assess for the formation and maintenance of such utilities, save under the risk of having the law nullified by some individual state, which may be unwilling to bear its share of the expense. In a word, it may be too much to say that the doctrine of nullifi- ''ation and the democratic theory of reserved state rights is destruc- tive of the American union ; but it is certainly not too much to affirm that they contain elements of dissension ; and that, carried to their legitimate extent, they may prove utterly inconsistent with all vigour of government. A general governing power, fettered by such a restrictive principle, can scarcely expect to continue " power- ful at home and respected abroad." That these effects have not been more clearly manifested in the past history of the great repub- lic of America, I attribute to these causes — that, wedded together in love and mutual forbearance by the trying ordeal of the Revolu- tionary War, the original states of the confederation were long ere they permitted the agitation of any question that would disturb their consociation or repose ; that it has been the good destiny of the United States to have had at the head of their affairs, with but few exceptions, men of patriotic hearts, sound heads, and tried business habits ; and that, whenever conflict has been likely to arise between the general government and a refractory state, some judicious means have been found for reconciling the recusants, or evading the diffi- culty without bringing the question to a decisive issue or arbitrament. Even while I write, the monster republic is assailed with a greater difficulty, and a stronger chance of disunion, than it has had to en- counter in any of the darkest years of its by past history ; and sure am I that there is no one with a heart to feel, and a capacity to understand, who fails to admire the efforts of American statesmen of all creeds and classes to allay the storm, and to find out, if they can, some standing ground of honest and honourable compromise and mutual concession. But the preceding observations on the constitution of the United States are not intended to convey the impression that, in the wri- 25 290 UNITED STATES' CONSTITUTIOX. tcr's opinion, the American Republic is in imminent danger of being dismembered and disunited. No doubt the day of separation may come — anticipating the future destinies of the land of " stars and stripes'' by the analogies of the past, it would seem almost a certainty that the time when it will be divided must arrive. Look- ing to the already vast extent of the United States* territory, and to the great additions lately made thereto, tL«^- conclusioi is scarcely to be resisted that, at some period or other, it will form the abode of more than one of the nations of the earth. Reflecting on the entire separation and severance of the pecuniary interests, and the difference in the personal habits of the northern from those of the southern states, it would seem a strange event that such materials could be permanently wedded into an enduring eniireness ; and, considering the firm stand assumed by the respective champions of the two great parties that now contend for dominance, it would seem hopeless to expect that the day of disunion among the hetero- geneous materials comprised within the great union of North America can be indefinitely postponed. But, despite these admissions, I am not one of those who anti- cipate an early secession of one part of the confederacy from the other — nay more, (and while I by no means think that a peaceful separation would materially interfere with the rapid advancement, either of the north or of the south, of the east or of the far west, or lead to those anarchical results generally predicated as likely to follow the dismemberment of the American confederation,) I would, were I an American as I am a Briton, regard a severance of the Federative Union, albeit an amicable or at least a peaceful one, as the greatest calamity that could possibly befall my great and rising country. I cannot conceive that there is an American to be found who is not more or less imbued with this feeling. What heart does not respond to the thrilling sentiments beautifully expressed by Mr. Webster, when he says, " Who is there among us that, if he should find himself on any spot of the earth where human beings exist, and where the existence of other nations is known, would not be proud to say, < 1 am an American, I am a countryman of Washington, I am a citizen of that republic which, although it has suddenly sprung up, yet there are none on the globe who have ears to hear and have not heard of it, who know anything and yet do not know of its existence and its glory.' And, gentlemen," adds he, " let me reverse the picture ; let me ask who is there among us that, if he were to be found to-morrow in one of the civilised countries of Europe, and was there to learn that this goodly form of government had been overthrown — that the United States were no longer united, that a death-blow had been struck upon the bond of union, that they themselves had destroyed their chief good and UNITED STATES' CONSTITUTION. 291 lent danger of y of Beparation land of " stars seem almost a t arrive. Look- ' territory, and sioi is scarcely form the abode lecting on the terests, and the )m those of the such materials itireness; and, e champions of nance, it would ong the hetero- nion of North ;hose who anti- leracy from the that a peaceful i advancement, of the far west, ,ted as likely to ation,) I would, jverance of the )eaceful one, as 'reat and rising jan to be found V^hat heart does y expressed by us that, if he human beings known, would countryman of although it has who have ears ing and yet do itlemen," adds there among the civilised is goodly form cd States were upon the bond chief good and their chief honour — who is there whose heart would not sink within him ? W^-^ is there who would not cover his face for very shame ?" There Wi no doubt about the beauty of the passage I have thus quoted, and there can be as little doubt of its truth. Through- out this record of my impressions, I have endeavoured to avoid saying anything as to the peculiarities of mind and manners exhi- bited by the Americans as a people — not deeming the time spent by me among them sufficient to justify prominent allusions to such matters. But I have already elsewhere remarked, that there are few privileges an American citizen views with such complaceny, as his membership of the Union — the privilege of calling himself a citizen of the American confederacy. This fact lies too much on the surface to escape the notice of the most casual observer. The Englishman, the Scotchman, or the Irist man have each their sepa- rate subject of glorification connected with their several lands of the rose, the thistle, and the shamrock, even while they unite in the anthem of " Rule Britannia." But the national boast of the genuine American is, not that he belongs to New York, Massachu- setts, Kentucky, or Ohio ; it is that he is an American — a citizen of the United States' confederation — a native of the country which gave birth and fame to Washington, and a denizen of that land whose standard is " the star-spangled banner." This feeling is the chord so beautifully and effectively touched by Mr. Webster ; it is one very generally prevalent throughout the United States, and the extent to which it prevails is one of the causes to which I look for a greater permanency to the Federal Union of America than has been by some thought probable. Even slavery itself — even the restlessness of the North under this blot on the national escutcheon, and its anxiety to wipe it off, conflicting with the de- termination of the South to stand by and to support it — will not suffice to countervail against the principle to which I have referred. In the last war with Grreat Britain, the States stood together at a time when their union was most severely tried, through the fact of the .war being adverse to the most obvious interests of at least one section of the confederation ; and, dark as is the cloud which at present menaces the integrity of the American Union, I do not doubt but that, under the auspices of such men as Clay and Web- ster, some measure of compromise and conciliation will yet be found, consistent alike with the principles ol the North, the honour of the South, and the safety of both. No doubt, this question of slavery is the difficulty of the American Union. It is the " Irish question" of the American Legislature. Nay, more, it has diffi- culties connected with it, or arising from it, separate and indepen- dent of the question of the integrity of the central power, which has been already shortly considered. The very manner in which 292 UNITED STATES' CONSTITUTION. SO very keen a discussion upon the American slave question has been grafted on the consideration of a motion for the admission of California as a member of the Republican Union, proves how im- portant and how intense the feeling which pervades the States upon this subject undoubtedly is. California having herself resolved on a constitution which excluded slavery, there was no absolute ne- f'essity for mixing up the question of her admission into the family of states with the general topic which divides cbe North from the South. It might be natural, but it was not necessary so to do. It might, have been avoided, had the South and its Congressional leaders so Willed. If there be, in the form of California's applica- tion to be admitted to the privileges of brotherhood, anything irre- gular and at variance with the constitution (as Mr. Calhoun alleges,) it was easy to have discussed the motion or resolution on that ground alone ; and precedents are to be found in the admission of earlier states of the confederation, which might have been held authoritative on the subject. But that the fact was not so, and that the application of the American El Dorado^ or golden region, has been made the signal for sounding the tocsin on the question of slavery throughout the Union, powerfully and eloquently evidences the strength of the feelings entertained upon the subject, by the two great parties who divide between them the influence of the confederation. That such has been the case is to be attributed mainly to the South, and, in part at least, it is charged against them as a fault. I have elsewhere expressed a sympathy with the position in which the inhabitants of cbe Southern States (many of them privately and on principle opposed to slavery,) feel themselves to be placed. But, at the same time, they are chiefly accountable for the excitement which at present agitates the Union ; and, inas- much as the question which has created it is one which seems to have been at present raised without adequate cause or imperious necessity, the originating of it may be regarded as a political mis- take, and consequently a fault. But whatever its destinies for the future, 'prejudice itself cannot deny that the past history of the American Federal Union has been one of scarcely paralleled prosperity. For above sixty years it has been found compatible with, if not conducive to, the most rapid ad- vancement 1q wealth and in population that was ever recorded in the historic annals of any people. Since its constitution was subscribed by the Deputies in 1787, the Republic of North America has acted with a closeness of union, and a rapidity of increase, which contrasts most strikingly with the internal wars and back-going tendencies which have been at work to retard the advancement of the numerous republics to be seen in the southern portion of the same great con- tinent. That such has been the good destiny of the North American 3 question has le admission of roves how im- lie States upon elf resolved on 10 absolute ne- into the family '^orth from the ry so to do. It Congressional jrnia's applica- , anything irre- ilhoun alleges,) lution on that le admission of ave been held lot so, and that ien region, has he question of ently evidences subject, by the ifluence of the p be attributed barged against pathy with the tates (many of feel themselves ly accountable on; and, inas- ^hich seems to or imperious political mis- itself cannot nion has been y years it has most rapid ad- recorded in the was subscribed erica has acted Fhich contrasts ng tendencies the numerous ime great con- >rth American UNITED STATES' CONSTITUUION. 293 Union is, I apprehend, mainly to be attributed to the wisdom of the articles of i^.s constitution of 1787, and to the strength and solidity of the central power thereby created. Of that constitution it was remarked by Franklin, at the time he signed it, " I consent to this constitution because I expect no better, and because I am not sure it is not the best;'' and by Washington himself, the chairman of the Convention, that, " In the aggregate, it is the best constitution that can be obtained at this epoch." The words in which these great men thus couched their eulogy of thv3 production they were themselves mainly instrumental in fashioning, may seem to argue something like moderate expections of well-working and permanency. It is therefore all the more satisfactory to know that, tested by the expe- rience of nearly two generations of men, the federal constitution thus ushered into the world — aft^^r a few months' sederunt of the deputies who formed it — has been, if not productive of, at least entirely con- sistent with, an unusually large amount of national prosperity and advancement in all that adorns or dignifies a national career. With these few observations on the sources whence alone danger may be anticipated to the integrity of the constitution of the United States, I again declare myself an admirer of that constitution ; and it is because I am so, and that I desire its stability and continuance, that I bring my notes upon it to a termination, by remarking, by way of moral— That he who would conserve the permanency of the federal union of the American States, must strengthen the hands of the General Government. For reasons greatly too numerous to permit of their consideration being adventured on here, there are no grounds for fear of the central power proving too strong for that of the indi- vidual states of which it is the keystone ; but there ai'e at least some reasons for supposing that the centrifugal forces of the independent members of the body politic may prove too powerful for the centri- petal attraction which directs their energies toTfards a common centre. CHAPTER XIV. " But midst the crowd, the hum, the shock of men, To hear, to see, to feel and to possess. And roam along, tho Vk ^Id's tired denizen." Byron. " May Goyernment never degenerate into a mob, nor mobs grow strong enough to become goTeruments." — Sam Suck's Toast. Leaving Washington, after an inspection of its environs suflBcient to satisfy me of the fact that, although the site of tho city is well chosen, the land by which it is surrounded is poor, and incapable of high cultivation, I returned to Baltimore, thence to Philadelphia, 25" NS 294 NEW YORK. and thence to New York, adopting, as I have already said, a return route from Philadelphia different from the one I had taken in my way up to the capital. I have however already said, regarding both the " monumental " and the " Quaker " city, all that I think likely to interest the general reader, and my return journey was not marked by any peculiar incidents, o^ by the sight of any particular novelty. The return to New York afforded me an opportunity of visiting such scenes in it as had been omitted (through want of invitation or suggestion) on the occasion of my first visit. Amongst these was the place of resort known to the New York populace under the cognomen of " the Castle Garden," a place of public enter- tainment erected on a mole, and connected with the " Battery " by a bridge. This mole was formerly occupied as a fortress, to aid in protecting the harbour ; but it is now made use of as a place of amusement j the area of it being chiefly occupied as the site of a great amphitheatre, capable, the guide-books say, of containing ten thousand persons, and certainly calculated to give sitting or standing room to a multitude little short of that number. At- tracted thither by the announcement of an Oratorio, and the seductive promise of tlie melodious strains of a brass band of sur- passing excellence, I wandered to the place, alone and unknown. Farther, however, than hearing the beautiful anthem of "Old Hundred" very creditably played, and enjoying its performance much, ('albeit the sound of the instruments was somewhat inter- fered with by the noise from the eating and drinking of the nu- merous parties who were engaged refreshing nature within the gigantic erection,) there was nothing seen or heard within the Castle Garden of New York that would justify or require more prominent notice. The inquiring visitor to the commercial emporium of America may be induced to direct his investigations to the state of crime and pauperism in that city ; and if he does so, he will be some- what startled on the subject of the latter, particularly if he has left the Old Country under the idea that, in coming to a new one, he has left destitution behind him. In a report to the municipal authorities of New York by Mr. Matsell, (the chief of the New York police,) in 1849, it is stated thai:, in eleven police districts, there existed 2955 children without the visible means of support — homeless, houseless wanderers, who are forced, either by their pa- rents, or by poverty and want of protection, to the perpetration of crime for their subsistence. Mr. Matsell further states that, of these, two-thirds are girls of from eleven to sixteen years of age. The free coloured population of New York, in particular, is a class that largely contributes to fill the ranks of mendicity. The condition of these poor people is indeed, and in many respects, NEW YORK TO BOSTON. 295 ' said, a return d taken in my regarding both 1 1 think likely vas not marked ticular novelty, lity of visiting it of invitation \.mongst these )opulace under r public enter- " Battery" by fortress, to aid of as a place of IS the site of a , of containing give sitting or ; number. At- itorio, and the iss band of sur- and unknown, ithem of " Old ts performance omewhat inter- •ing of the nu- ure within the ard within the r require more im of America state of crime will be some- ilarly if he has ^ to a new one, the municipal lef of the New 3olice districts, is of support — ler by their pa- ke perpetration ker states that, Ixteen years of In particular, is lendicity. The [many respects. deeply to be deplored. Looked down upon and despised, as they unquestionably are by the great mass of the white population, they form a kind of Pariah tribe amidst the rest of the commu- nity. Though freemen, they cannot be said to possess, mu( h less to enjoy, the inestimable blessings which the terra "freedom" conveys to the mind of a resident in these isles, where " No slave ever trod." And if one-fourth of the details heard by me, from intelligent, influential residents in the city of New York, were true, the state- ment of Mr. Hayne, (one of the senators of South Carolina) is not very greatly exaggerated, when he said that " there does not exist on the face of the whole earth a population so poor, so wretched, so vile, so loathsome, so utterly destitute of all the com- forts, conveniences, and decencies of life, as the unfortunate Blacks of Philadelphia, and New York, and Boston." In the same speech (delivered in 1830) Mr. Hayne says, " I have seen, in the neigh- bourhood of one of the most moral, religious, and refined cities of the north, a family of free Blacks driven to the caves of the rocks, and there obtaining a precarious subsistence from charity and plunder." Having remained a short time longer in New York, during which I confirmed or corrected opinions formed during my first visit, visited some additional scenes, enjoyed the society of kind and esteemed friends, saw enough of the New York ladies to con- vince me that the reputation they enjoy foi elegance of deport- ment and beauty of countenance is fully warranted, and had some opportunities of satisfying myself as to the handsome, nay, ex- tremely luxurious manner in which the mercantile aristocracy (and it is beyond all question that there is both an aristoei ;3y of birth and an aristocracy of wealth in the great republic) of New York in general live, I proceeded in the steamer Massachusetts to Stonington, en route for the city of Boston, the chief town in Mas- sachusetts, and the capital of Ne„ England. The sail to Stonington is through the once famed and much dreaded strait which lies at the west end of Long Island Sound, about eight miles east of New York, and which is called by the more descriptive than polite name of Hell-gate. The passage is narrow and tortuous j and a bed of rocks below, which extends quite across the river, causes the water to boil and struggle with considerable violence. But Hell-gate, 1 owever useful to terrorists in days gone by, or advantageous to novelists as a weapon of ex- citement in latter days — or of however difficult navigation, even now, to sailing vessels — has to the traveller by steam, and in such A vessel as the good steamer Massachusetts, lost not only its dan- 296 NEW YORK TO BOSTON. ger, but all the romance of its interest. Whether it was my sense of security, or my recent introduction to the whirlpool of Niagara and the rapids of the St. Lawrence, that produced the result, I know not ; but the result certainly was, that, during the passage of the Hell-gate, or Hurl-gate, I felt neither an extraordinary shaking, nor any unusual sensation whatever, as, racing with an- other steamer, (which eventually outstripped us,) our- steamship hurried through the turbulent waters, beating them down with her paddle-wheels, and tossing them aside, as if in her impatience to get into the more open sea. The sail from New York to Stonington — a distance of one hun- dred and twenty-five miles, through the entire length of Long Island Sound, and with Long Island on the one side, and the State of Connecticut on the other — is exceedingly pleasing. It did not, however, in my case at least, afford anything farther to chronicle, either in the way of description or of narrative. From Stonington the traveller proceeds by railway to Boston, the distance being ninety miles. This railway was unquestionably the best, and the best appointed one, I travelled on during my excursion through the United States. I might with truth add, that my good fortune in this part of my journeyings was not confined to the excel- lence of the railway travelled on. It extended to the fellow passen- gers — ladies as well as gentlemen — whom I had the pleasure to meet with as fellow travellers on the Stonington and Long Island Rail- way. This passing tribute is due to one family party in particular, to whose intelligent courtesies I was, as a solitary stranger, indebted in this part of my journeyings, and who considerately and politely offered me much information I might not otherwise have so easily procured. Save that the individual members of the travelling party referred to were residents of Boston, or its neighbourhood, I had no proper means of ascertaining who or what they were. But whoever they were, they embodied much intelligence, as well as much beauty. But it was not only on this occasion that, in the course of my tour, I had been indebted to natives of the good city of Boston. Even before reaching New Orleans, an accidental rencontre had led to an acquaintance with two young fellow travellers, both of them from Boston, and with whom I parted in the crescent city with consider- able regret. Again, at the Springs of Saratoga, I had made the acquaintance of a gentleman of the same town, whom I had after- wards the pleasure of meeting in his native place. So that, although I could not go the length of an English friend — one who, while he carried about with him most of the excellencies, entertained also not a few of the sturdy prejudices of John Bull — when he asserted (even from the few specimens of Bostoniana we had met with when travel- ling together) that the Boston men were decidedly the most gentle- NEW ENGLAND. 297 was my sense ool of Niagara I the result, I ig the passage extraordinary acing with an- our- steamship down with her ' impatience to ice of one hun- ength of Long 5, and the State ig. It did not, er to chronicle, f to Boston, the questionably the ag my excursion 1, that my good aed to the excel- le fellow passen- Ipleasure to meet ng Island llail- ty in particular, ranger, indebted tely and politely e have so easily travelling party rhood, I had no !. But whoever sis much beauty, irso of my tour, Boston. Even had led to an 1 of them from ;y with consider- . had made the lom I had after- \o that, although [e who, while ho jrtained also not ^e asserted (even rith when travel- he most gentle- manlike in person and in manners of any in the Union, I was in every way predisposed for favourable impressions of Boston and its inhabitants. Indeed, so strongly was my temporary companion im- pressed with this idea of the superior republican graces of the Bostonians, that he one day said to me at Niagara, in reference to a somewhat distingue party, consisting of two ladies and two gentle- men, who joined the dinner table — " I feel sure these people are either English or Bostonians." Whatever the citizens of Boston may think of the compliment, I can assure them it was a very high one in the opinion of its author. But while I cannot, in justice to my friends in sundry other cities and towns of the American Union, give the inhabitants of the capital of Massachusetts so exclusive a place in the field of American intelligence or elegance, I can honestly say, that my limited experience of Boston and its society has left a most favourable impression on my mind, and excited in me a strong desire to repeat my visit. But it is not merely on account of the society of Boston, or of personal reminiscences connected with some of its denizens, that I drew near the capital of Massachusetts with more interest than I had approached any other locality in the American Union. In visiting the seaboard of the state of Massachusetts, the English or Scottish traveller must surely feel that he is approaching almost to hallowed ground. The Pilgrim Fathers — ^whcre is there the understanding that can appreciate liberty of conscience, or the heart that can denounce oppression, or feel for the oppressed, that does not sympathise with their struggles, 'and respect their heaven-directed and heaven-sup- ported heroism ? On an autumnal day in the year 1620, one hun- dred and one persons, men, women, and children, all inclusive — themselves the winnowings of a larger body who had previously made the same attempt, but had been obliged to put back owing to the frailty and unseaworthiness of their ships — set sail from the port of Plymouth, in England, to cross the broad Atlantic in the May- flower, a vessel of only one hundred and eighty tons burthen. These emigrants became so for conscience sake ; and that they felt in all their intensity those ties of country and of home which are to be found in nearly every human breast, may well be gathered from the fact, that one of the earliest acts done by them after their arrival at their far-off home across the waters — done even while as yet distracted by the pressing temporal necessities of their position — was to draw up a voluntary declaration, or deed of constitution, in which they acknowledged themselves the subjects of the pedant monarch whose blind adhesion to a fancied prerogative, and whose insane attempt to establish an impossible uniformity, had driven them forth to the then inhospitable wilderness of the New World. In this document, IN i 298 NEW ENGLAND. thei ind( these early English settlers of America expressly set fo rth that their voyage had been undertaken " for the glory of God, the advancement of the Christian name, and the honour of their king and country." The " Pilgrims," by whom this work of Christian colonization was adventured on, are correctly described by the United States' historian, Bancroft, (vol. i. p. 307,) as " Englishmen, Protestants, exiles for religion, men disciplined by misfortune, cultivated by opportunities of extensive observation, equal in rank as in rights, and bound by no code but that which might be imposed by religion, or might be created by the public will." About the middle of November in the same year, the small but resolved band came in sight of the American continent. The land at which they first touched now forms part of the state of Massa- chusetts ; and even here there is something to indicate that the bark which bore them was heaven-directed. When they set out from England their intention had been to proceed southward, at least as far as the mouth of the Hudson river, and there to settle, somewhere, in all probability, about the place where the town of New York now stands. Had they succeeded in this design, it is little less than certain that one and all of them would have fallen victims to the comparatively numerous and warlike Indians who were afterwards found to inhabit Long Island and its vicinity. But no such danger await'id the little band in the more northern haven into which Provi- dence had sent them. The territory about Cape Cod, and for a long distance inwards from the coast, had been sometime previously devastated by a pestilence, under the withering effects of which nearly the whole of its savage occupants and original owners had sunk into the tomb. So much had the country been depopulated that, (to use the graphic but touching phraseology of the journal which describes the proceedings of these colonists during the first winter of their location in America, when narrating the results of an exploring expedition immediately after their arrival,) " after this we digged in sundry like places, but found no more corn — nor anything else but graves." It seems to me that there is something in this worthy of being pondered over. The Pilgrims had left their native land — the land of their forefathers, and of their fondest assoeiations|f the immortal AMERICAN CHARACTERISTICS. 309 ,ve in so far as connexion with i to confine my- ered, during my , and in as few ig to give to my leriences, modi- I have done all rell, I have done ut, nevertheless, the reader may f travels in the not professed to America, either myself justified seology and con- d last, and cer- anything, either future prospects two remarks ou each of these subjects will sufficiently explain at once the cause and the extent of these somewhat singular omissions in a European work which professes to treat of the United States of America. As to the general tone of male and female society in America, in relation to mind and manners, I may have formed — nay, I did form — ray own opinions in the different places I visited ; and it is but fair to say that, from what I saw, these opinions could not be otherwise than highly favourable. But still I have not professed to give the reader any information on the subject. My stay was too short, and my op- portunities for judging too limited, to permit of my arriving at any general conclusions on questions lying so far below the surface of society. As regards the national manners in America, all I feel justified in saying is, that, in so far as I saw, the same principles of action prevail in private life, the same circumstances produce the same results, the same motives give rise to the same actions in America as in England ; p. ud that he or she who would be considered a lady or a gentleman in America, would be considered equally en- titled to the distinction in England, and no more. In reference to the oft-quoted and much-caricatured peculiarities of our transatlantic friends, I would say that I heard nothing of the alledged general use or misuse of words not in an Englishman's vocabulary, or of English words to mean things and ideas different from the things or ideas we would understand them to mean in Great Britain. No doubt there are, in the conversation, and even in the writings of some Americans, occasional uses of words which sound unwonted to the English ear ; but, in most c.'»ses, it would be difficult to prove that the use so made of particular words or phrases was at variance with their etymological meaning and strict significance. Again, among the general travelling public of the United States, one frequently .'lears such words as "fix,'' "settle," "dander," "calculate," "guess," " reckon," &c., applied in a manner that it is of course impossible to justify or defend. But the conversation, in good society, is as little interlarded with expletives, or with solecisms m language, as is the conversation of similar society in Great Britain ; and sure I am that, limited as was my stay in each place, I could point out domestic circles in Boston, and in several of the other cities of the American Union, wher^ the use of the extraordinary words and sen- tences, which many of mj countrymen think to be ordinary character- istics of " Yankee phrase," would be viewed with as much surprise as they would be in the most courtly circles of queeniy England. It is all very desirable to write agreeable, piquant, and readable books, but it is too bad to sacrifice truth at the shrine of effect, for the pur- pose of making them so. Equally lacunic, but for a very different reason, has this book been on the great subject of American slavery. I cannot indeed say that 310 AMERICAN CHARACTERISTICS. .# slavery and the slave trade are subjects which I had not attempted to study — in truth they have occupied my thoughts, and been to me subjects of reflection, before I went, and also when in, as well as af- ter I returned from the United States of America. But I have pur- posely refrained from entering on the large and important topic of American slavery at any length, or from adding to the much that has been written by other writers upon it — and that not only because of its magnitude and importance, but because of some other reasons "\'rhich I shall shortly and honestly mention — even though I do so under the impression, if not the fear, that they may surprise and dis- appoint some of my friends on both sides of the Atlantic, if not on both sides of the question. It may sound strange to say, that too much has already been writ- ten and said on the subject of slavery in the United States of Ame- rica. But, in a certain sense at least, such appears to me to be the fact. At all events, I am prepared to take the responsibility of say- ing that the inconsiderate zeal of abolitionists in this country, and, still more, in the Northern States of America, in writing and speak- ing without due consideration of the peculiar position of their breth- ren who are the owners of the slaves in the Southern States, has raised up a spirit of determination to uphold and continue the system of slavery, which will tend to retard the result it was designed to promote. The spirit so excited may be a fitful one, but no one who has visited the Southern States of the American Union but must ad- mit that is was and is a very determined one. The publicity and violence of this external warfare against slavery has, as it were, roused the pride and excited the energies of the slaveholders, thrown ihera upon the sympathies of each other, and prepared them to act more resolutely, and more unitedly, against what they conceive to be an unjust and an unwise attempt to involve them and their fortunes in sudden and irretrievable ruin. An unwonted energy pervades their speeches and their actions ; and instead of permitting them- selves to consider the comparative advaiitages and disadvantages of the systems of free and of slave labour, they start at once with the assumption that the btter is the one which it is their interest and their privilege to defend. Desirous as I am to see slavery abolished all over the globe, and anxious though I be that such a glorious day should speedily come, I do regard the position of the slave-holders in the Southern States of the great republic of America with much interest and some sympathy. What they are to do with their slaves, or for the proper cultivation of their lands, after emancipation, are questions which have been often put, and never yet satisfactorily an- swered. It surely must be somewhat galling to the men so situated — around and among whom slavery has rooted itself as a domestic institution, intertwining itself with every part of their aflfairs — to AMERICAN CHARACTERISTICS. 311 not attempted and been to me n, as well as af- 3ut I have pur- )ortant topic of the much that Dot only because ae other reasons though I do so surprise and dis- lantic, if not on ready been writ- States of Arae- to me to be the onsibility of say- lis country, and, riting and speak- m of their breth- hern States, has itinue the system was designed to Ibut no one who ion but must ad- le publicity and has, as it were, eholders, thrown tared them to act ,ey conceive to be Qd their fortunes energy pervades )crmitting them- disadvantages of at once with the leir interest and slavery abolished ch a glorious day the slave-holders nerica with much with their slaves, imancipation, are satisfactorily an- men so situated If as a domestic their affairs — to find those of their own confederation, removed from all chance of personal participation in the dangers or the difficulties of a change, or still more those of a distant clime but kindred tongue, coolly pro- mulgating sentiments, and even using more indefensible means, to swamp all their hopes, frustrate all their plans, and destroy their properties, if not their lives. It is difficult for parties situated as the southern planters of the North American Union are, to give their adversaries the credit for a disinterested and a wise philanthropy, in thus continuing to urge on the work of emancipation without regard to consequences, or adequate preparation against unfortunate results j and there is room for, if there be not reason in, the taunt of Colonel Haynes, when he says of the emancipationists of the north, that, while " they do not indeed throw themselves into the flames, they are nevertheless employed in lighting up the torches of discord throughout the country." But I would not have it understood that I am to any extent, or in any degree, a defender of American slavery ; and least of all would I have it supposed that I would desire the day of slave emancipation in America to be indefinitely postponed, or protracted for a single hour beyond what is necessary for the preparation of the community, and of the slaves themselves, for the greatness of the change. I am aware that this view of the matter, that even this style of reasoning, will be distasteful to not a few whom I esteem and respect, and whose motives, at least, I admire ; and I know that I may be told, that this argument of " wait a little longer" is just the very one that has been repeated from the commencement of Grenville Sharpe's crusade against slavery down to the present time. But, conscious that I have no sinister view in using it, and that I am recording opinions formed dispassionately and on the spot, after ocular demon- stration as to the existing state of things in the West Indian colonics of Britain, of France, of Denmark, and of Spain, I repeat it as my conviction that, were there less noise made on both sides of the At- lantic as to the emancipation of the slaves in the United States of America, it would conduce to the present comfort both of the slave and of the planter. Such discreet forbearance, while it would not retard, might probably accelerate the very event which the noise and clamour is intended to bring about. That the period of entire eman- cipation is on the wing, and rapidly approaching, I cannot doubt for a moment. The whole tendency of the social economy of the United States is in that direction. The true interests of the whole country lies that way, and the general spread of light and intelligence must necessarily lead to the same conclusion. Nay, more : the in- creased and increasing influence of the northern or free states, renders the permanence of the present system a matter almost of impossi- ; lility, unless, indeed, the Union itself be made to give way for the 312 AMERICAN CHARACTERISTICS. prevention of the result. Indeed, I question if there be one sensible thinking man, throughout the length and breadth of the American Union, who would venture coolly to say that the time is never to arrive when African slavery will be finally and for ever abolished throughout the length and breadth of the Continent of America. But there are yet difficulties and dangers in the way — difficulties and dangers to the present slave-holders, and difficulties and dangers as regards the slaves themselves : and again I say, that, from what I saw of the determined state of public feeling on this subject gene- rally prevalent in the United States, and in particular in the more southern states, I feel that there is great chance of the time of final emancipation being deferred through the action and reaction of incon- siderate zeal. To those who take an interest in the question of whether this matter of American slavery is likely to be determined by the increasing comparative influence and power of the free states over the slave-holding ones, the following tables, which exhibit the relative political strength of the two, and indicates very distinctly on which side the scale preponderates, will not prove uninteresting : — FREE STATES. States. Electors for President. Whole Number of Votes. Average Vote for each Elector. Maine, . Massachusetts Rhode Island, Vermont, New Hampshi Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, . Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa, re, 9 12 4 6 6 6 30 26 23 12 9 5 4 4 87,000 134,409 11,155 47,907 50,104 62,365 453,431 77,735 367,952 328,489 152,752 125,121 65,106 39,166 24,303 9,666 11,200 2,788 7,984 8,350 10,394 12,595 11,105 14,152 14,282 12,729 13,902 13,003 9,791 6,074 11,994* Total 169 2,027,006 * Average number for each elector. ) he one sensible )f the American lime is never to p ever abolished 3nt of America, way — difl&culties Ities and dangers hat, from what I his subject gene- lular in the more the time of final reaction of incon- the question of to be determined of the free states ?hich exhibit the very distinctly on minteresting : — umber Average Vote for each Elector. ites. )0 9,666 )9 11,200 )5 2,788 )7 7,984 )4 8,350 )5 10,394 31 12,595 35 11,105 52 14,152 89 14,282 52 12,729 21 13,902 OG 13,003 06 9,791 03 6,074 OUO 11,994* AMERICAN CHARACTERISTICS. 313 SLAVE STATES. States. Electors for President Whole number of Votes. Average Vote for each I Elector. Delaware, 3 12,399 4.134 Maryland, 8 72,355 9,042 Virginia, 17 91,719 5,395 North Carolina, 11 78,473 7,133 Georgia, 10 92,346 9,234 Florida, 3 7,777 2,592 Alabama, 9 61,845 C,871 Mississippi, . 6 52,459 8,743 Louisiana, 6 33,588 5,598 Texas, . 4 12,468 3,117 Arkansas. 3 16,888 6,629 Tennessee, 13 123,124 9,471 Kentucky, 12 116,861 9,738 Missouri, 7 72,748 10,392 Total,* 112 315,050 7,545* For the right understanding of the preceding tabular statement, and to enable the reader to deduce from it the conclusions which it warrants, it may be expedient to take a rapid survey of the leading characteristics of the political system of the United States of Ame- rica — particularly as it certainly is not of the simple character gene- rally supposed. In particular, the mode of electing the members constituting the three bodies of the state politic is essentially different — each from both the others. The members of the House of Representatives, the Senators, and the President, are all elected on principles which differ materially. The House of Representatives (which for the present consists of 230 members, and is renewed by election every second year,) is chosen by ballot, and from the whole body of the people — one member or representative being allowed to each state, for every 70,000 inhabitants which it contains j so that the more populous the state the larger its share or voice in the general govern- ment, in so far at least as the lower branch of the legislature is concerned. The members of the Senate, or Upper House, (who hold their seats for six years,) are, however, chosen in a very differ- ent manner, and on a very different principle. They are elected by the local legislatures of the individual states composing the Federal Union ; and two senators being allowed as the representatives for each state, the smaller or less populous states have here as large a * South C:\roliiia electors are oliocen bv the Legislature. '27 314 AMERICAN CHARACTERISTICS. .,i,f share in the government as their more important companions, of denser population or more extended territorial possessions. The mode of appointing the President, again, is a kind of Union between the two systems of election applicable respectively to the " Com- mons" and "Lords" of the United States* Legislature. The Pre- sident of the United States of America (probably the most important oflSce in the world the elevation to which is by election of the people) is chosen every four years ; and while, in strict significance of language, he may be said to be elected by the people, his appoint- ment does not proceed directly from them in the same manner as does the appointment of the members of the House of Represen- tatives, or lower House of Congress. The President is chosen by electoral colleges. Of these colleges there is one for each state; and the number of members composing it is regulated by the joint number of the representatives and senators which the particular state sends to Congress. Thus Maine, having seven representatives and two senators, has an electoral college composed of nine ; Rhode Island, having only two representatives and two senators, has an electoral college of four j while the populous state of New York, having thirty-four members of th'i Lower House of Congress and tlie usual quota of two for the Upper, has thirty-six members in her college for the choice of the President. The effect of such an arrangement, in throwing political power into the hands of the more populous states, is too obvious to require illustration or to justify argument. From this brief explanatory statement, it will be understood that the first figures in the preceding tables show the number com- posing the electOi'al college of each state, the second the number of votes in the state, and the third the proportion subsisting be- tween the two. When it is further mentioned, that the whole votes of each College go one way, and according as the majority sway it, (thus, if New York Electoral College contains twenty Whigs and sixteen Democrats, the whole of her thirty-six votes will go for the Whig candidate,) the value of the table, as an indica- tion of how the scales of power preponderate, will be sufficiently obvious. Nor would the view be complete without noticing the very rapid increase, of late years, in the political importance of the north-wes- tern states of Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Iowa, and Wiscon- sin, all of them slave-repudiating. A few years ago, the political influence of these six states was scarcely either known or felt. Within eight years, they have increased in population in a ratio of 49 per cent. Now, their votes for the President, and their voice in Congress generally, is much more than sufficient to swamp those of the old southern slave-holding states of Virginia, North Carolina, AMERICAN CHARACTERISTICS. 815 i companions, of (ossessions. The »f Union between ly to the " Com- »ture. The Pre- e most important ' election of the strict significance lople, his appoint- same manner as use of Represen- ent is chosen by 3 for each state; iated by the joint jh the particular en representatives I of nine ; Rhode senators, has an ite of New York, of Congress and f-six members iu effect of such an hands of the more tion or to justify •e understood that he number com- cond the number on subsisting be- lt the whole votes he majority sway us twenty Whigs six votes will go lie, as an indica- ill be sufficiently ng the very rapid of the novth-wcs- owa, and Wiscon- ago, the political known or felt, tion in a ratio of and their voice in swamp those of , North Carolina, Georgia, and Louisiana. In 1840, the population of the north- western states was about 2,900,000 ; in 1850, it is certainly not less than 4,500,000. If they progress for the next ten years as they have done for the last eight, their votes for the Presidency will outweigh that of all the slave-holding states together, even should the future increase of the latter be according to the ratio of the past. Do not these simple facts speak volumes on the question of Ame- rican slavery ? Do they not lead irresistibly to the conclusion that, provided only the Republican Confederation of North America con- tinues — if the Anr orican Union only survives the fierce assaults at present making against its integrity, and holds together for ten years longer — the increase in the political power of the northern and western states will have made them so preponderating — so over- whelming — as to enable them to carry triumphantly any measure they may determinedly resolve on ? And is there any one, either in the United States of America or in Great Britain, who seriously doubts that, if these free states of the Union had such transcendant power, it would not be employed, first indirectly to discountenance and suppress, and thereafter, directly to destroy, slavery and slave- dealing, throughout the whole of the republic ? If there be, let him attentively peruse the language of complaint, on the subject of nor- thern and western aggression, and of slave-concealing and removing, even now used, on the part of the southern representatives, in the American Congress. Another plain corollary from the above fact is, that anything that goes to increase the number of the free states, must necessarily tend to precipitate the above anticipated denouement and result. It is only in this view that the southern states of the Union are justified in the strenuous opposition they are now making to the introduction of California into the republican brotherhood, with an anti-slavery manifesto emblazoned on her constitution. Even one state will make a serious difference, particularly as the south can have but little hope of recruiting her ranks by territorial additions. It is scarcely necessary to add that, if ever the " Canadian annexation- ists," aided by republican influence, should succeed in their difficult attempt, the fact of their doing so would very speedily, and for ever, settle in the negative the question of slavery and the slave trade, all over the great continent of North America. Such ard a few of the reasons which have induced me to exclude, in a great measure, from the pages of this work, the so much agitated question of American slavery. Even had I the space, the statistics, and the inclination, for its full discussion, I am satisfied that nothing which my pen, or even more able ones, will now write upon it could accelerate the event so much to be desired, although it might tend to 316 INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. irritation of feeling, or perchance retard the issue, or aid in surround- ing it with disastrous incidents with which it might not otherwise be attended. But, even while I do so, I '•ejoice in the conviction that events are progressing in their natural and necessary course, that must inevitably lead to the wished-for result j and that, provided only the Union be preserved in its integrity, there is every prospect that, ere many years shall have passed away, we may receive intelligence of the passing of some measure of " American abolition and emanci- pation." But there is another question relating to England and America — one which affects and concerns the interests of both nations, or at least the interests of a highly valuable and important class of the communities of both countries, to which I gladly tuvn before closing my remarks — I mean the question of an international copyright law between these two kindred nations of the world. This is a subject to which I profess to have paid some attention, ere I left my native country ; to which I also directed much of my attention while in the United States ; and to the attainment of right views regarding which, I have been aided by information supplied by professional friends on both sides of the Atlantic j so that, if my opinions be unsound, and my arguments inconclusive, I have certainly no proper apology to plead for giving them to the world. In considering the question of an international law of copyright between England and the United States of America, which would have the effect of protecting the works of the authors of the one country from being reprinted verbatim et literatim in the other, and there sold without his (or her) consent or participatioa in the profits in any way, it seems to me that the natural way of treating the sub- ject will be to consider — 1. The reasons which render such an inter- national law, particularly between these two countries, desirable or the reverse; 2. The principles on which the question of the law of copyright depends; and 3. The effects that may be expected to arise to the literary communities of the two nations from the enactment of such a law. Distinct views on these three points will, I apprehend, place the subject in such a light as will enable any one to form for himself at all events an intelligent and a dispassionate opinion on this important question. From the manner in which this topic of an international law of copyright between England and the United States of America is often treated, as well as from the spirit in which it is occasionally d'scussed, it would almost seem as if America stood alone in her re- fusal of reciprocal legislation on this interesting subject, and that such refusal amounted to a denial of that protection which, in point of morality, she was bound to accord. Now, it is only placing the argument on its proper basis to say, that this is an erroneous view of are INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 317 • aid in surround- ; not otherwise be le conviction that ssary course, that lat, provided only jry prospect that, ceive intelligence ition and emanci- d and America — 3th nations, or at rtant class of the iin before closing nal copyright law This is a subject ! I left my native ntion while in the i regarding which, issional friends on J be unsound, and proper apology to law of copyright rica, which would uthors of the one in the other, and itioa in the profits ' treating the sub- ider such an inter- itries, desirable or tion of the law of 5 expected to arise 1 the enactment of will, I apprehend, y one to form for ate opinion on this ternational law of les of America is , it is occasionally )d alone in her re- subject, and that in which, in point is only placing the I erroneous view of 1 the matter. The United States neither stands alone in her refusal to grant to foreign authors, as regards works published abroad, a copy- right protection within her own limits, nor is there any propriety of language in affirming that there is a positive violation of the rules of morality in her refusal of a reciprocity of legislation on this subject. It is the importance of the question, when considered in relation to England and America, that has given rise to this erroneous idea in connection with which it is often viewed, and which I would here in the outset desire to remove. Speaking the same language, sprung from the same ancestry, personally interested or excited by the same his- tories, references, and reminiscences, the work adapted for the one people is, by the necessity of the case, equally accessible as well as intelligible to the other. There is hero no translation required. The book, as published for the one country, addresses itself to the people of the other ; and thus it is that, while Byron, Scott, Macauley, Alison, Dickens, &c., have as ready a sale in America as in England, Longfellow, Cooper, Prescott, Irving and Bancroft, are as well known in Great Britain, as if they had all been born and educated beneath the skies of England. In literature the two nations are, in point of fact, virtually the same ; and hence the magnitude of this question of copyright, considered in relation to them — which very magnitude has excited a keenness of discussion that has led to views and expressions having no proper application to the question. To talk of " piracy" when characterising the act of a publisher, in the one country, in printing and publishing without the consent of the author, a book originally published in the other, and to stigmatise as literary " pirates" the parties so republishing, is to misapply terms, and to do so in a way which is anything but calculated to aid the cause such statements are generally intended to serve. The fact is, that the question here at issue cannot be determined on any abstract princi- ples of morals, right or wrong. No doubt, and under one view of the question, a strong case of hardship towards literary men may be made out ; and, being so, it may be made to form a legitimate argu- ment and an important element in an attempt to arrive at a right determination on the question. But the question itself is surely one of expediency ; and the sooner this is seen and admitted, the sooner are we likely to have it settled on a satisfactory reciprocal basis. As an independent nation, the United States are quite entitled to refuse to concur with England in any measure of international copyright, if they see fit to do so, and if they can do so without injustice to any class of their own subjects, whose interests they are bound to prolecii. Whether it is their policy so to refuse, and whether American states- men can so refuse without trampling on the rights of members of their own confederation, are separate and important questions. But, in so far as Great Britain and her authors and people are concerned, 27^* 318 INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. I cannot see that they can charge America with injustice towards them, whatever view she may continue to take upon this subject. Therefore would I lay it down as the basis on which the question is to be here discussed, that, as an international one, it is only to be properly determined on considerations of expediency j so that they who look here for the hard terms so often applied to our transatlantic brethren, in relation to this matter, will look in vain. If, even view- ing the matter on this basis of expediency, it can be shown that, in reference to their refusal to reciprocate with England, the United States of America are acting inexpediently and unwisely — inasmuch as they are repressing literature throughout their own'border — doing injustice to their own authors — retarding the progress of their own literary shool — and refusing encouragement to that very cla.«s of foreigners whom it were both their dignity and their interest most to encourage — I think I shall have done more for the real advancement of the question than if, contrary to my convictions of international law, I were to endeavour to show that a refusal to reciprocate on this subject were the perpetration of a violation of the comitas gentium. The true doctrine of the jus gentium^ in reference to the length to which one independent state is bound to recognise the laws or rights of the subjects of another in any respect, is, as it is laid down in the third law of Huber,* where he says — " That the rulers of a nation act up to the principles of international law and comity where they admit that the laws of every people, exercised within their own limits, should have everywhere the like force, in so far as tJicy do not preju- dice the power or rights of other states or their own citizens." If anything were wanting to my mind to satisfy me that it is an error to view this question as one involving, on the part of America, (in her refusal of a system of reciprocity,) an absolute negation of a claim for justice towards foreign authors, it would be the fact that the most eminent men in England have taken opposing views, even when the subject has been co-ic>dered with reference to this country alone. Although it may now be considered as a question settled in the negative, it was a question long and ably, as well as anxiously, discussed in the courts of Great Britain, whether there existed a copyright at common law, and irrespective of statute. Indeed, the decisions on the point were at first conflicting. In the case of Mil- ler against Taylor, of which a very copious report is given in Sir John Barrow's " Reports of Cases decided in the King's Bench," (vol. iv. p. 2303,) the question was originally decided in favour of the existence of a common-law right. In that case the question was very elaborately discussed, it being in general maintained for the plaintiff that there is a real property remaining to authors after pub- * Huber, lib. 1, t. 3, De Conflictu Legum, sec. 2. INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 819 injustice towards pon this subject, ih the question is e, it is only to be cy ; so that they ) our transatlantic a. If, even view- bo shown that, in Tland, the United iviscly — inasmuch ^ wrnborder — doing j )rogres8 of their I that very claps of ir interest most to real advancement IS of international reciprocate on this comitas gentium. 3 to the length to the laws or rights s laid down in the rulers of a nation jomity where they D their own limits, they do not preju- I citizens." me that it is an ! part of America, ute negation of a be the fact that )osing views, even ce to this country uestion settled in veil as anxiously, there existed a ute. Indeed, the the case of Mil- J is given in Sir 3 King's Bench," ided iu favour of the question was laintained for the authors after pub- iC. 2. lication of their works; and that thoy only, or those who claim under them, have a right to multiply the copies of such their lite- rary property at their pleasure for sale ; that this is a common-law right which has always existed, and does still exist, independent of, and not taken uway by, the statute of 8 Anne, Cap. 19. While for the defendant the general answer was, " That no such right of pro- perty remained in the author after the publication of his work ; that the pretension of a right at common law was a mere fancy and imagination, for which there was no ground or foundation." In that case the judgment was for the existence of a right at common law — a right founded on the principles of equity. But in the sub- sequent case of Donaldson against Becket, decided 22d Feb. 1774, in which the question came up before the House of Lords, upon an appeal from a decree of the Court, of Chancery, (founded on the judgment in Miller's case,) and after the opinions of the whole judges upon the point had been taken, it was finally settled that, if such common-law right ever existed, it had been taken away by the statute of Queen Anne; and that an author's only remedy was in virtue, and on the condition, of that statute. True, the majority were also of opinion that a right at common law had existed ante- rior to the passing of the act ; but very learned opinions were like- wise expressed on the other side, and very unanswerable arguments were advanced in support of these opinions. Now, if it has thus been held, '^ven in this country, and consider- ing the question solely with reference to British subjects and to British interests, that there is now no remedy for the author whose work has been pirated save under the statute of Queen Anne ; that, on the principles of common law, he cannot now maintain an action either of injunction or interdict, or for damages; and that it is much more than questionable whether such common- law right ever had existence — how can it with justice be said that the American pub- lisher, reprinting iu America the published work of a British author, printed in this country, is, in so doing, guilty of a violation of tho principles of international law ? Without carrying the argument any farther than this, it surely follows that, if there be good grounds for doubting the existence of any right of property competent to an author over his work, after he has given it to the world by publica- tion, on the principle of the common law of England or of Scotland, (and in a late case, decided in the Sheriff Court of Renfrewshire in Scotland, it was held that, in Scotland as in England, copyright, or the right of property in literary compositions, rests not on common law, but on statute alone,) then there can be no ground whatever for maintaining that the term piracy, with any strictness of pro- priety, can apply to the conduct of the foreign republishers of a work brought out in England. At all events, the circumstance that 320 INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. the facts of this matter are as I have shortly detailed them, should modify the severity of the strictures with which the subject of American reprints have been occasionally discussed. I am not ig- norant that, while the law in this country denies and repudiates the principle of copyright save under the statute, there are many inge- nious arguments that might be adduced to show that the law ought not to be as it is. Neither am I unacquainted with many of the able pamphlets written to vindicate the existence of a principle of copyright apart from the statute. In particular I have perused the elegant and eloquent work on the subject, entitled " Present State of the Copyright Question," from the pen of Mr. Sergeant Talfourd, with whose observations it is scarcely possible not to sympathise. But it is not my province or intention to argue the question : what I desired was, to draw attention to the fact that the law in this country is as I have above described it ; and to point attention to it as a reason why, in considering the question of international copy- right with America, I shall not follow the course of characterising a refusal of reciprocal legislation or the subject as a denial of a claim for justice, or a violation of those principles of equity which are as binding upon nations as they are upon men. Let it be granted that, if America chooses, she has a right to continue her present course of supplying the literary appetite of her increasing population mainly by the reprinting of English works, without the consent of the authors who have given them to the world. But her right to do so, and the wisdom of her policy in so doing, are two different things : and I apprehend there will be but few who will be disposed to de- fend the wisdom of that policy, after they have attentively and dis- passionately considered the present effects produced by the want of an international copyright, and contrasted these with the conse- quences which must necessarily ensue from the introduction of such a measure. We have seen that, as regards the question of internal copyright in Great Britain, the first legislative act passed for the regulation of the subject was the excellent statute of Queen Anne, chap. 19, (enacted in 1710,) which gave to the author or proprietor of a then previously printed work a copyright for twenty years, and to the author of a jook not then printed a copyright for fourteen years from the date of publication : while, if the author was still alive at the expiry of that period, his copyright revived and ex- tended for other fourteen years. By another act (54 Geo. III. cap. 156, passed in 1814) the provisions of the statute of Queen Anne, and of other relative acts, were reconsidered, and the terms for unpublished works was extended to twenty-eight years, and if the author survived that term, till his death, and other provisions made. These statutes; with certain acts relative to the drama, and INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 321 cl them, should the subject of I am not ig- repudiates the are many inge- the law ought . many of the a principle of ve perused the Present State ^eant Talfourd, to sympathise, ^luestion: what be law in this attention to it rnational copy- jharacteririing a mial of a claim S^ which are as )c granted that, resent course of )ulation mainly consent of the • right to do so, iflferent things : disposed to de- atively and dis- by the want of Nith. the conse- duction of such ernal copyright the regulation ^inne, chap. 19, proprietor of a ;y years, and to bt for fourteen author was still evived and ex- (54 Geo. III. [itutc of Queen , and the terras ht years, and if )ther provisions the drama, and to public lectures in colleges and universities, comprised what may be called the internal or municipal statutory law of England on the subject of the right of property in literary compositions after pub- lication, up to the year 1842, when the statute 5 and 6 Vic. cap. 45, was passed for the " amendment of the law of copyright.'' By that enactment, which recites and repeals the two acts of 8 Anne, cap. 19, and 54 Geo. Ill-, cap 156, above referred to, the term of continuance of the copyright was somewhat changed. The provi- sions in this respect now are, that the copyright shall exist for the author's lifetime, and for seven years aftyr his death ; while if these two terms — the lifetime and the subsequent seven years — expired before the lapse of forty-two years from the first publica- tion of the work, then the protective period extends to the whole period of forty-two years. Other provisions are made with regard to the publication of posthumous works, and also relative to the conditions upon which the right is to be secured, for which refer- ence must be made to the act itself. Upon this statute now rests the law of copyright in reference to the writings of British authors first published within the limits of Britain's own extensive domi- nions. By the statute 1 and 2 Vic. cap. 59, an attempt was made by this country to establish an international copyright, by providing that her Majesty may, by an order in council, direct that foreign authors, or their " assigns," shall have a copyright in their works within her Majesty's dominions. That statute has since been su- perceded and amended by the late legislative enactment of 7 and 8 Vic. cap. 12. The provisions of this act it is unnecessary to no- tice more in detail here, (particularly as they must be alluded to below,) farther than to say that they carry still farther out the general provision of the 1 and 2 Vic. cap. 59, which the latter act repeals. Thus far of the laws on the statute-book of Great Britain on this subject of copyright, municipal and international ; and I shall have exhaustod the short mention of these required for the argu- ment in hand, when I state that the law which prevents the im- portation into British foreign possessions of the reprints of books first " composed, written, or printed in the United Kingdom," is to be found in a place where it might not readily occur to look for it — viz., in the statute 8 and Vic. cap. 93, intituled " An Act to regulate the Trade of British Possessions abroad," where it forms a solitary clause among a multitude of others relating to everything but authorship, books, or matters of a literary nature. It were out of place to enter here into any elaborate exposition of the judicial decisions by which the true meaning of these legis- lative enactments thus referred to have been illustrated and de- 322 INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. termined. But as the question of the existence of a copyright in foreign publications, irrespective of the international act, has of late years been the subject of much and learned argum^^nt in this country, while the decisions which that discussion have evoked are not at first sight very consistent with each other, perspicuity seems to require a brief notice of the most prominent of the judgment , and of some of the principles which they may be held to have settled. The older cases of Miller v. Taylor, and Donaldson v. Beckett, have been already referred to. These may be regarded as settling the principles of municipal copyright in this country, and as deciding that it now entirely rested on statutory law. As regards copyright in foreign compositions, in Chappell v. Purdey, (^English Juristy vol. ix., p. 495,) it was decided in the Court of Exchequer that where a work was first publisned abroad, and bj a foreign author, such author could not afterwards acquire any copy- right in this country under the statute 8 Anne, cap. '19, and 54 Geo. III. cap. 156. But by a subsequent decision of the Court of Common Pleas, in Cocks v. Purdey, (12 Jurist, 677,) it was ruled that a foreigner the native of a country in amity with Great Bri- tain, the author of a work composed abroad, which was published simultaneously in England and on the Continent, had a copyright in the work. This judgment was afterwards followed by the Court of Queen's Bench in the case of Boosay v. Davidson, (13 Jur. 678,) wherein it was found, on this point, that there is copyright in this country for the works of a foreigner published in this country without having been before published abroad. On the faith of the train of decisions of which those above men- tioned are the leading and the most important ones, it was at one time held that, even under what may be called the municipal copyright acts of Great Britain, a foreigner, the native of a coun- try enjoying peaceful relations with England, (in the language of the law books, an " alien friend,") might, by himself or his Eng- lish assignee, secure the benefit of a copyright in this country, provided always he did not first publish abroad. In this way a very liberal interpretation was given to the copyright law of Eng- land. The obvious efiect was, that if the foreigner was a native of a country which recognised a copyright within its o\\n dominions, he might by simultaneous publication', (i. e. publication in both countries, not at the same hour, but in any part of the same day; for it was found that the legal rule here is de minimis non curat lex,) secure a copyright in both countries. But on an attentive perusal of the whole decisions, ending with the case of Boosay v. Davidson, it will appear that the question of the applicability of the statutes of 8 Anne, cap 19, and 54 Geo. III. cap. 156, to the writings of foreigners, was not fully brought up or discussed. At i INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 323 a copyright in aal act, has of rgumv^nt in this lave evoked are jrspicuity seems the judgmem , B held to have d Donaldson v. lay be regarded 1 in this country, j tutory law. As ppell V. Purdey, in the Court of ibroad, and bj a squire any copy- cap. 19, and 54 1 of the Court of r7,) it was ruled with Great Bri- •h was published had a copyright yed by the Court a, (13 Jur. 678,) copyright in this in this country hose above mon- ies, it was at one i the municipal lative of a coun- the language of iself or his Eng- in this country, In this way a ight law of Eng- ;ner was a native ,s own dominions, jlication in both of the same day; liaimis non curat t on an attentive jase of Boosay v. applicability of cap. 156, to the ■or discussed. At all events, in the subsequent and very recent case of Boosay v. Purdey, (13 Jur. p. 918,) the Court of Exchequer, upon a careful review of the whole authorities, and a very elaborate argument upon all the statutory provisions, determined and decided that " a foreign author or his assigns " are not parties within the meaning, and cannot have the benefit of the statutes 8 Anne, cap. 19, and 54 Geo. III. cap. 156, as those acts were intended for the encour- agement of British talent and industry, by giving to authors who are British subjects, either by birth or residence, or their assigns, a monopoly in their literary works, dating from the period of their first publication here. It is by the writer believed to be the opinion of most lawyers in this country, who have devoted any measure of attention to this important subject, that the decision last above-mentioned is un- doubtedly a sound one, as embodying a correct view of the statutes which it interprets. Further, in the present state of the copy- right law of other countries, and of America in particular, it is satisfactory that our law stands as has thus been held. If the judgment destroys a preconception that the copyright law of Eng- land is based upon principles of extreme liberality towards for- eigners or their assignees, it at all events places the matter on a much clearer, more consistent, and more definite footing, than it seemec'. to rest on under the operation of the decisions by which Boosay's case had been preceded. It may thus be regarded as settled law that, save under the ex- isting international copyright act, 7 and 8 Victoria, cap. 12, (and the statutes made mention of in it,) there can be no copyright in this country for the untranslated writings of a foreign author. But that valuable act is sufficiently liberal ; and, in pointing at a spirit of national reciprocity on this important subject, it does all that can be done, consistently with a due attention on the part of Great Britain to the rights and interests of the numerous and valuable class of men who compose her own literary school. By that statute, the Queen is empowered by an order in council to authorize a copyright in the works of foreigners ; and, after due and full provision as to the conditions of the order and of the grant, an enactment is made in section 19, whica points out both the object and the extent of the whole statute. It is there pro- vided that " neither the author of any book, nor the author or composer of any dramatic piece or musical composition, nor the inventor, designee, or engraver of any print, nor the maker of any article of sculpture or other work of art as aforesaid, which, after the passing of this uct, may be first published out of her Majesty's dominions, shall have any cnpyririht therein, or any exclusive right 324 INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. to the representation or performance thereof, otherwise than such (if any) as he may become entitled to under this act." After this rapid sketch on the present state of the law of copy- right in literary productions in Great Britain, let us now, as shortly, notice the present position of that law among our transatlantic friends in the American republic. In the United States of America, there is no international copy- right law whatever ; and the internal or municipal copyright is regulated by an act of Congress of 3d February 1831, in which the provisions, with regard to works first published in America, are very much the same with the earlier law of this country as embraced in the statute of Queen Anne extended by the subse- quent act of 54 George III. cap. 156, with regard to books brought out in Great Britain. The right is granted to citizens or resi- dents, and is given for twenty-eight years, with an extension of fourteen years if either the author or his wife or children survive the term of the original grant. By section 8 of this act, it is expressly declared "that nothing in this act shall be construed to extend to prohibit the importation or vending, printing or pub- lishing, of any map, chart, book, musical composition, print or en- graving, written, composed, or made by any person not being a citizen of the United States, nor (or) resident within the jurisdic- tion thereof;" and the next section limits the protection of unpub- lished manuscripts in the same manner. Contrasting the two systems, it will be at once seen that the main distinction between them consists in these particulars : that, while in Great Britain it is essential to copyright that there has been no prior publication elsewhere, in the United States of Ame- rica that requisite is not included. But second, while in this country there is provision for giving to a foreign author — the na- tive or inhabitant of a country which recognises a reciprocity of legislation with Great Britain on this subject — a copyright in his work in this country, there is no such provision in United States law. Had the latter country adopted the cosmopolitan policy of England, (which is leading the way in this as in everything else,) the copyright of new works might ue secured to authors in both countries ; but the stipulation of " citii,enship, or residence within the dominions of the United States at the time of publication," is of course a fatal barrier to any such attempt. As a British sub- ject, I am thankful when I say that the barrier is not of English, but of American formation. Thus, at present, stands the law of these two countries in rela- tion to this subject. There is nothing to prevent the works of British authors, printed in f]ngland, being reprinted and sold iu INTERNATIONAL .COPYRIGHT. 325 wise than such ct." he law of copy- now, as shortly, ir transatlantic srnational copy- ►al copyright is 1831, in which led in America, this country as i by the subse- 3 books brought citizens or resi- an extension of 3hildren survive ' this act, it is lU be construed printing or pub- ion, print or en- 5on not being a bin the jurisdic- ;ection of unpub- je seen that the articulars : that, that there has I States of Ame- d, while in this author — the na- a reciprocity of copyright in his in United States politan policy of 3verything else,) authors in both residence within publication," is ls a British sub- I not of English, countries in rela- nt the works of died and sold iu America without their consent ; neither is there anything to pre- vent the works of American authors, published in America, from being reprinted and sold in England, without the consent of such American author being obtained or even asked. An author pub- lishing in either country has no way of securing to himself any benefit from the sale of his work in the other, save by some such ruse as that of bringing out, in addition to his original work, an edition with such notes as may, through the medium of a third party, be the subject of copyright in the other country ; or, by the mode often adopted in the United States by the English mag- azines, of introducing into some of the numbers during the year articles from the pens of American writers, which articles, being previously made the subject of copyright in America, cannot be reprinted by any one there, save with the proprietor's consent.* But while the laws of the two countries thus operate in the same way against the interests of the literary men of both, there is this substantial distinction between the two — one in wh'ch the liberality of the mother country contrasts favourably with the more exclusive policy of her gigantic offshoot — Great Britian offers a reciprocity of privilege, and it is America that refuses it. England says, give my literary children an equal privilege in your territories, and I have already passed an act under which I will give your authors copyright privileges throughout my dominions. But the United States refufi* to listen to the proposal, and by her provision of " citizenship ot residence," limits her copyright to the authors be- longing to, or living on, her own soil. Now, among the effects that would be produced by an interna- tional law of copyright between the two countries — or, to speak more accurately, among the beneficial results that would arise were America agreeing to reciprocate the liberal policy of Great Britain on this subject, the following are palpable and beyond question : — Such reciprocity would secure to the authors of both countries a much larger field for profit, as well as fame ; and, while the wri- ters of both would be thereby benefited, the larger share of the advantage would be to the literary men of America. To them there would be immediately opened up profitable access to a popu- lation of some forty millions of people, exclusive of the whole vast colonial empire of G rcat Britain ; while the similar addition made to the field for the Englishman's operations would be some- * I was told, in Boston, that tlio proprietors o( Blackwood had the merit of striking out this most legitimate mode of countermining the attempts made to deprive them of the profits arising from the very extensive sale of their popular periodical in the United States of America. By sectiring the services of literary men of the Americun Confederation, and resident therein, they have not only added to tlieir stafl", but seciu'ed themselves against reprints in the United States— save with their o\ni consent. '28 826 INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. wbere about one moiety of the number above named. Than the literary men of a nation, there is surely no class of persons -who more deserve that attention should be paid to their interests in the general legislation. They are no doubt a comparatively small body, and therefore it is that their voice is so little heard, even in matters in which they are especially concerned. But let not our American friends forget that it was the rem \rk of one of their own earlier Governors- -an observation of the first Governor of Massa- chusetts (Winthrop) — that "the best part of a community is always the least, and of this least part the wiser is always the less" — a remark which deserves special remembrance, not only in America, but everywhere else. While, however, it would conserve and promote the literary in- terests of both countries that America reciprocated the international policy of Great Britain on this subject, it is most especially for the interest and consequent advancement of her own literary school that she should do so. Compared with that of England, the literary school of the United States is yet in its infancy. No doubt in this, as in other respects, the republic is making rapid pro- gress } and when adorned with such names as Sigourney, Irving, Bancroft, Prescott, Longfellow, Bryant, Story, Kent, Greenleaf, and Hoffman, it were absurd to question the right of America to take a high position in the world of letters. But still, as con- trasted wiih EngL;nd, most of her national literary laurels have yet to be gathered ; and what can more tend to retard her in this career than placing her literary men at a disadvantage as regards the remunerative character of their productions ? Exposed as he is to the competition of another publisher, who reprints an English work of a kindred nature, without paying its author a single six- pence out of the profits derived from its sale, how can the publisher who purchases the manuscript of an American author afford to give a fair or reasonable price for the object of his acquisition ? That authors of distinction do not, in general, write from motives of gain has nothing to do with the question. If it had, it might be worth while to stop, to point out the host of facts that are on record which lead to a somewhat different conclusion ; but this, at all events, must be conceded — that the supply of literary produc- tions, and the number of men who will devote themselves to literary pursuits in any country, will ever be more or less influenced by the value placed on them, as evinced by the remuneration given them for their labours. Most of the nien of distinguished literary name in America follow other professions or callings, or are en- gaged in diplomatic life. The classic and elegant Longfellow is Professor of Modern Literature in Harvard College — Bryant is editor of a newspaper in New York — the United States' historian INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 827 ned. Than the of persons who r interests in the paratively small e heard, even in But let not our one of their own rernor of Massa- a community is always the less" 3e, not only in the literary in- the international especially for the Q literary school )f England, the fancy. No doubt iking rapid pro- gourney, Irving, tCent, Greenleaf, t of America to 3ut still, as con- ary laurels have 3tard her in this intage as regards Exposed as he arints an English hor a single six- 3an the publisher author afford to his acquisition ? rite from motives it had, it might 'acts that are on sion ; but this, at ■ literary produc- te themselves to or less influenced muneration given nguished literary I lings, or are en- mt Longfellow is (liege — Bryant is States' historian Bancroft was sent by the cabinet of the United States to this country — "Washington Irving went as minister of the United States to Spain ; and the same remark may be made with reference to various others of the great names of the literary republic of America. How far this sinking of the literary in the professional and diplomatic character has originated in the non-remunerating nature of literary labour, I do not pretend to say ; but, in saying that it has much to do with it, I only state the opinion I have my- self formed, and one which is very generally entertained in the United States themselves. I find no fault with the fact. Tha. the field of diplomatic life should be open to the ambition of literary men augurs favourably for a nation. Nay, more ; because men are actively engaged in the discharge of the duties of professional or ofl&cial life, it does not therefore necessarily follow that they have the less inclination, or, apparently, the less time for the prosecution of literary pursuits. Of this we have many remarka- ble instances. In addition to the American ones J have before mentioned, we have numerous men in Great Britain who may be referred to by way of illustration. Henry (Lord) Brougham wrote the numerous works, treatises, essays, lives, histories, and disserta- tions, which remain a record of the versatility as well as of the vigour of his powerful mind, while in the discharge of the duties of an arduous profession, and engaged in the turmoil of political life, or after he had commenced the herculean task of disposing of the arrears of business in the Court of Chancery of England ; Francis Jeffrey found time to produce the numerous papers which adorn the pages of the Edinburgh Review, while engaged in the very vortex of his profession as a lawyer — in which profession he occupied the very highest position ; Professor Wilson, the world- renowned Christopher North of Blackwood, wrote his various poems and novels, in addition to all his numerous and noble contributions to the magazine he so long edited, while discharging the duties of the professional chair ; and to add yet another instance, the his- torian of Europe, Alison, has not only found time to write the greater part of his great work, but to write many other works, besides numerous and erudite contributions to the periodical litera- ture of the day, while occupying the situation of judge-ordinary, both in civil and oriminal matters, in the most populous county — in which is the most populous city — in Scotland.* * It will give the reader a more graphic idea of the amount of official and judicial duty, ably and satisfactorily discharged by this eminent and popular author, and the zealous discharge of which has not prevented the production of the many works of ability and research which immortalise his name, to peruse the following quo- tation from a speech of Mi*, (now Lord) Brougham, delivered in the House of Com- mons on the 29tli April 1830, in which he thus makes mention of the amount of judicial business transacted in the civil court, of which Mr. Alison is the judge :•— 328 INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. *i Similar examples might be muUiplied, but they only prove that pro- fessional, official, or even judicial duty does not necessarily debar from literary labour. They furnish no reason why men of letters should be almost compelled to engage in other, and ofttimes uncongenial pur- suits, because of the insufficiency of the remuneration received from their publications. Besides, it is to be questioned whether literature will flourish as a separate profession in any country in great vigour, unless there be in it a body — a large body — of men who make it the principal, if not the exclusive business of their lives; and this can- not be reasonably expected to be the case, if the prosecution of it leads not to competence, if not to something more. If therefore th's United States of America would see literature flourish amongst them with additional vigour, let their Congress at once pass a law, similar in effi^ct to the bill introduced into the United States' Senate in 1837, by that able, venerable, and accomplished statesman, th' Hon. Henry Clay, for extending the privilege of the act of 183^ to the non-resident -subjects of Great Britain and of France in respect of future publications. The result of such a measure would be at once seen in the renewed impetus it would give to American literature itself, whatever might bo its eflFects as regards the literature of Eng- land. Another effect of such a measure on the part of America as that now contended for, would be to improve the character of the Eng- lish woiks which are generally sold at public places — at railway stations — on board steamboats — and in hotels, in and throughout the United States. "Who, that has travelled in the American Union, has not been struck with the inferior, trashy, if not immoral character and tendency of the majority of the cheap publications that are ten- dered for his acceptance at such places as have been indicated? Nearly all of these publications are reprints of books published in England, and the works of our inferior novelists, productions replete with the marvellous, or with details taken wholesale from the crimi- nal records — books which profess to give the minutiae of what is called European fashionable life, for the gratification of a morbid taste or desire to pry into its secret details; but which carry false- hood on the very face of them — reprints of English translations of demoralising books originally brought out in France — and which arc the more calculated to do mischief in that they make a parade of exhibiting the pleasantness of vice, only that they may afterwards show that the end was destruction. I appeal to every candid American if such be no* ■ fair and disinterested description of the " Taking the number of cases, and the value of property involved in them, broud t i 1 tlie cuunty court of Lanarkshire, which includes Glasgow, it will be found tlint h ilf a million's worth is adjudicated on annually by that court." If such was the slate of maters twenty years ago, the amount, as well as the importance of tlio business, has more than doubled since the above date. INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 329 ly prove that pro- isarily debar from letters should be uncongenial pur- ion received from whether literature J in great vigour, L who make it the es ; and this can- prosecution of it If therefore th'j Ish amongst them ass a law, similar States' Senate in tesman, thr^ Hon. b of 1831 to the nee in respect of would be at once nerican literature literature of Eng- America as that acter of the Eng- laces — at railway id throughout the American Union, mmoral character ;ions that are ten- been indicated? )oks published in reductions replete e from the crimi- nutisB of what is tion of a morbid yhich carry false- ;h translations of e — and which arc make a parade of r may afterwards to every candid lescription of the vec] in them, broucl t it will be found tlisit t." If such was the e importance of tlio literary food supplied in public places, and public vehicles of travel, for the use of the general public in the United States of America. When I went over the rivers and railways of America, there was a temporary improvement on the general state of matters in this respect. The two first volumes of Macaulay's History of England had some months before made their appearance from Great Britain, and after a very brief space the work had been reprinted in a very cheap form ; and it is but fair to say, that I saw many of these re- prints, of this great and good work, in the hands of the travelling stationers and others, and many of them sold at the very low price of seventy-five cents, or about three shillings sterling. But they were exposed for sale side by side with such books as The Mysteries of the Criminal Records, Paul de Kock's jPaw? the Profligate, The Great City, et hoc genus omne. Indeed, I refer to this sale of the cheap editions of Mr. Macaulay's book the more readily, not merely because it is only right to state th' jle facts, but because in a conversation I had with an intelligc . statesman in America on this subject of international copyright, he pointed to the rapid and ex- tensive sale of such a book as Mr. Macaulay's History of England, as one of the advantages secured to his country by the non-existence of such a copyright law. Now, even were it so — even did the refusal of reciprocity in protection, by way of copyright, lead to the cheap- ening of English books of an improving character, and consequently to their being more read by the great mass of the people, it were easy to show that the advantage is gained at the too costly price of doing injustice to the great body of American literary men, retarding and repressing America in her literary career, and leading to an in- undation of cheap books of the most demoralising character. But it is not so. Ere I close these few observations on this subject, I will show that the cheapness of books might be secured in America, without involving any denial of the reciprocity for which I contend : meanwhile, the object is to prove that one of the efi'ects of such a denial is the overwhelming number of cheap publications, of an inferior and injurious character, which find their way into the hands of the general body of the people, to the exclusion of the better works. If theft it be, (as some argue,) it is a theft of trash. The reason of this is very obvious. If a publisher could not reprint an English work without iome previous arrangement with the author of it, such publisher weald take care that he did not put himself to the expense of printing and publishing anything that would not stand the test of time and examinat'cn ; and however the taste of the vicious part of the public may throw the tendency at first, the taste of the general body of a people is sure to come right at last. Silly, immoral, impure works may find a degree of popularity for a time, but in a short space they are sure to become unsaleable. But 330 INTERNATIONAL COl'YRIGHT. n as cheapness and novelty are (as matters at present 'stand) the main consideration in the United States, and as the publisher of an Eng- lish reprint pays nothing for the right to do so, all he cares for is to print just so many copies of a work as will take immediately, with- out reference to its inherent merits, or the probable continuance of its popularity, — as many as he can rapidly dir^pose of before a rival can interfere with a reprint, to deprive him of part of his sales. Were the publisher secured in his possession by a copyright, he would be more careful in his selection of the work to be reprinted, and more regardful of the probability of its finding acceptance with the moral and reflecting, who compose, I rejoice to think, a large proportion of the American nation. Another effect of such an international copyright — and the last I will trouble the reader with for the present — would be to equalize the price of standard works in both countries ; and, on the whole, also to cheapen such works in both. Here we touch on the kind of argument which is in general used as a reason for America's refusal to reciprocate with England in an international law. It is supposed, and said, that the effect would be to enhance the prices of English books in America, and thus place them beyond the reach of many of the industrious classes. This is a misconception of the probable effects. Whether, even were the result to be a slight or even a con- siderable enhancement in the price of the works of British authors in the Union, the American statesmen are acting wisely in refusing reciprocity — whether they do right in sustaining a state of things ■which makes Macaulay, Alison, and Tytlcr, Hemans, Wordsworth, and Moore, Dickens, Wilson, and Bulwer, so cheap, that their very cheapness offers an inducement for the American public to read them in preference to Sigourney, Longfellow, and Bryant, Bancroft, Everett, and Prescott, Irving, Cooper, and Dana, admits of very grave questioning. But they do not, by so sustaining the question- able system, get even the supposed advantage. It is not America's denial of international copyright that has cheapened and is cheapen- ing books, but it is America's denial of international copyright that has produced all the injurious consequences to America herself that have been already pointed out. Other causes than the supposed one have contributed to the lessen- ing of the price of literary productions, not only in America, but in England. In both countries they have been coming down in price for some years past, and they are now in general published and sold at prices so low as to place the best works within the reach of the general body of readers. If, as a rule, books are now much lower in price in the United States than they are in Great Britain, the observation applies chiefly, if not alone, to the reprints of British authors — reprints which are ufitimes brought out with a degree of INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 331 t 'stand) the main jlisher of an Eng- l he cares for is to mmediately, with- Ae continuance of e of before a rival part of his sales. )y a copyright, he rk to be reprinted, ig acceptance with I to think, a large ;ht — and the last I )uld be to equalize md, on the whole, uch on the kind of • America's refusal V. It is supposed, prices of English the reach of many on of the probable ight or even a con- ' British authors in wisely in refusing a state of things iians, Wordsworth, ap, that their very ublic to read them Bryant, Bancroft, la, admits of very ning the question- t is not America's ed and is cheapen- nal copyright that lerica herself that uted to the lessen- n America, but in ng down in price )ublished and sold the reach of the now much lower reat Britain, the eprints of British with a degree of inaccuracy of type, inelegance of form and of printing, and insuffi- ciency of binding, which makes them truly dearer, at the cheap price, than editions printed and published with greater care would be at the high one. This is another of the effects of the want of a system of international copyright, between these two kindred nations, of which I would say a few words ere I conclude ; meanwhile the question is as to the legitimate causes which have so much lessened the price of literary productions of late years. Of these it will be sufficient here to mention these two — th? fall- ing in of copyright books by the expiry of the term of protection, and the increase in the numbers of the reading public. The first of these, although important, is of such second-rate influence compared with the last, that it may be passed over without further remark. The main cause of the diminished price of books is the increase in the number of readers, and that authors and publishers have found from experience, that here, as in everything else, an enhanced price produces a diminished demand. Proprietors of copyright books do not now wait the expiry of the term of protection before publishing editions at a price so cheap as to put them within the reach of the general public. Of this the instances are so numerous that the diffi- culty is in selection. To take the latest I have observed, most of the popular novels of Mr. James, and of the equally popular histori- cal romances of Mr. Ainsworth, most of which were within the last few years published at the price of £1 lis. Gd. each, are even now, in the lifetime of the authors, and during the subsistence of the copy- right, publishing in London in volumes each containing a complete novel or romance, printed on good paper, with a good clear type, neatly got up, and not in columns, at the price of one shilling. Simi- lar instances will present themselves to every reader, illustrative of the fact that the effect of a copyright in keeping up the price of books of general acceptability has been greatly over-estimated. In short, the price at which the works of our best authors are now usually published, or republished, seems to be very much regulated by the number of the class of readers to whom they are addressed or adapted, or who may be likely to peruse them. Works on law, medicine, or abstract science, or curious and erudite dissertations on philology and suchlike abstruse subjects, are doar — not from anything in the diffi- culty or expense of publication, but from the limited number of the parties to whom they are more immediately addressed. Works on theology are comparatively cheap, because there is in this country a numerous class by whom they are purchased, if not perused ; and books of fiction and light literature are generally cheapest of all, because such works find numerous readers among all classes of the community. And what, then, might not be expected to arise from the intro- 332 INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. duction of an international reciprocity system on this subject? Were American authors protected in England, Scotland, and Ire- land, and our numerous colonies, and were British authors pro- tected in the United States of America, the number of readers would be vastly increased to both ; the authors would be protected from a most undesirable competition ; the general price would be reduced, because more books would be sold ; and only Better and more accurate editions would find their way before the public. And, let our American friends ponder this, the advantage in all these respects would greatly preponderate on their side. The field opened up to the American author would be increased in a greater ratio than that opened up to the British one. The undesirable competition which exists at present tells far more against him than it does against the literary men of England. It is in America, not in;England, that the great complaint is made of works being thrust before the public with a haste and carelessness which is inconsist- ent with accuracy : a fact which is powerfully illustrated by this, that some of the Irst booksellers of New York, Boston, and Phila- delphia, sell many copies of English editions of English books, in- asmuch as American gentlemen, making additions to their libraries, often prefer paying the English price for the accurately printed and strongly bound imported work, rather than the much smaller price for the hastily got up and loosely put together copy of the reprinted book. In one of the most extensive publishers in the city of Boston, I was assured of this fact ; and it was corroborated by the number of imported books I saw in the premises ; and con- firmed by a sale, in my presence, of an English copy of the two first volumes of Mr. Macaulay's great work, at the English price of 16s. per volume, although an American reprint of the book, of as much apparent neatness and largeness of type, and excellence of paper, lay alongside of it, marked at a price of only one-third the abovenamed sum. The introduction of Mr. Clay's bill of 1837, and the support it received, shows that there is a class of men in America favourable to this literary reciprocity of legislation between the two countries —a class which is both intelligent and influential. It is to be hoped that their numbers and their influen je will increase ; and that, aided by the pens of those to be chiefly benefited, their efforts will eventuate in the production of legislative enactments which will treat authors as they deserve to be treated — not as members of this or of that country, or as citizens of this or of that commu- nity — but as cosmopolitans, as benefactors of their race, and candi- dates for the plaudits of the whole family of mankind. As he peruses the immortal productions of their genius and patient re- search } as he appropriates to himself their observations or their EMIGRATION. 333 this subject? )tland, and Ire- ih authors pro- ber of readers Id be protected price would be only better and ore the public, idvantage in all side. The field sed in a greater The undesirable gainst him than in America, not rks being thrust ich is inconsist- istrated by this, ston, and Phila- glish books, in- their libraries, curately printed e much smaller her copy of the )ublishers in the yas corroborated misesj and con- copy of the two le English price ; of the book, of , and excellence f only one-third 3d the support it lerica favourable he two countries al. It is to be 11 increase; and fited, their efforts aactments which -not as members of that commu- • race, and candi- Qankind. As he 1 and patient re- jrvations or their creations, or as ho proceeds to furnish his mind from their works with thoughts, and to pe.»plc his brain with never-dying and ever- delightful memories and associations, who tiiinks or who cares what country may have given birth to a Shakspoarc, a Byron, a Campbell, or a Scott ? The country whence they sprung is proud of them, and well she may ; but they wrote not alone for her, or scarcely even more for her than for the rest of the world. Their name and their fame is heard over all the earth. Wherever there exists a mind that can appreciate talent, or a heart that can respond to thtt touch of genius, to that spot did they address themselves ; and of that spot, wherever it may be, such men may be considered the adopted children. And as I hope it is with the departed as well as with the living authors of Great Britain in America, so I know it is in Great Britain with the literary men of the Republic. Who cares to consider, as he peruses the works of the American Hemans — Mrs. Sigourney — or of the graceful, elegant, and able Longfellow, or the vigorous and energetic Bryant, whether the authors of such works are English or American — ^whether they were born and educated in Boston in England, or in its greater name-child, Boston in the States ? The only legislation that were fitted for the question of interna- tional copyright, is f ae based upon the above principles — one which recognizes, in all its length and breadth, the cosmopolitan nature of literary claims — one, in short, which acknowledges wis- dom in the motto prefixed to this chapter, and sympathizes with the feelings set forth in its kindred verse, — " Where'er the human heart doth wear Joy's mj-rtle-wreath or sorrow's gyves ; Where'er a human spirit strives After a life more true and fair, There is the true man's birth-place grand, His is the world-wide fatherland." There is one other subject on which I would desire to say a few words, ere bringing to a conclusion this narrative of impressions and experiences connected with a visit to the United States of America, and that subject is the question of EMIGRATION, and the advantages or disadvantages attaching to the great North American continent as a place to which Europeans, and especially my own fellow-countrymen, may convey those thews, sinews, and other appliances, or that knowledge, science, and capital, which have proved insufficient for their comfortable maintenance in the midst of the greater competition and elbowing of their native land. 834 EMIGRATION. WS Emigration from Europe is likely to become one of the leading questions of the day ; and without disputing — nay, on the contrary, admitting — the great claims, capacities, and advantages held out by the vast continent of Australasia, as a field for the able and the enterprising, it is hoped that the following remarks on emigration to America may prove of some use to those persons whom connex- ion, vicinity, or other ground of preference, may induce to go there, rather than to the more distant British dependencies of New South Wales or New Zealand. Never having visited the vast possessions of England in the Indian or South Pacific Ocean, 1 am, as a matter of course, quite incompetent to institute any comparison between them and the American continent, in regard to the inducements they respectively hold out to intending emigrants. In ofiering the following sugges- tions, therefore, it is very far from my intention to persuade any one to prefer North America to Australasia. Neither is it my intention to make any direct comparison between the United States of America and the noble, varied, and extensive colonial posses- sions of Great Britain on the American conti ent, as places of location for parties from this country seeking a home on the other side of the Atlantic. Such tasks are too extensive to be introduced at the close of a work of this nai are. Were I to adventure on such comparative views at all, I fear my feelings of patriotism would give a strong bias to my reasoning. As a general rule, I think it most desirable, and most worthy the attention of the Government ot^ this country, that everything possible should be done to direct the torrent of emigration, which has for many years been going on and increasing, towards the shores of our own valu- able colonies; and, inasmuch as the vast majority of voluntary emigrants are influenced in their choice of the place to which they emigrate, chiefly, if not solely, by ties of a hereditary or family nature, the plain course would be to give direction and impetus, by making public grants t^ aid in conveying bodies of emigrants from particular localities of the mother country, and for settling them in circumstances of sufficient comfort on public lands in the colony. Such an arrangement might be accompanied by provision for the repayment of the loan or grant, or of part of it, by small annual instalments out of the profit of the reclaimed lands. The nu'^leus thus formed, the hereditary and family ties already spoken of might safely be left to work out the rest. Th's is an Interesting and important subject, but it is not my intention to follow it farther for the present, having made mention of it simply to show that in the following remarks I do not profess to enter upon, much less to discuss, the general question of emi- gration. My object is merely to note down a few remarks as the EMIGRATION. 335 ,e of the leading ff on the contrary, antages held out )r the able and the rks on emigration ons whom connex- nduce to go there, cies of New South England in the ;r of course, quite en them and the 3 they respectively following sugges- i to persuade any Neither is it my the United States e colonial posses- ent, as places of dome on the other e to be introduced to adventure on ngs of patriotism a general rule, I attention of the ossible should be as for many years of our own valu- )rity of voluntary ace to which they editary or family n and impetus, by of emigrants from for settling them nds in the colony. provision for the by small annual ds. The nucleus jr spoken of might )ut it is not my ng made mention s I do not profess question of emi- remarks as the results of personal inquiry and observation — remarks which may prove of service to persons who may contemplate emigrating, and who may have determined on America as the scene to which they will remove themselves. Believing that emigration has its origin in natural causey which no legislation can eflFectually control, and believing also that any legislative measures designed to restrain it would be unjust and unwise, even if they could accomplish the object aimed at, I think the wisest course is to direct and not to retard, and that the best direction is to circulate information on the subject of American emigration, both to the colonies and to the States. The intending emigrant to America should, in the first place, make himself well acquainted with the nature of the climate of that portion of the British possessions, or of the Kepublic, to which he may think of directing his steps. On this subject there is great misconception prevalent. The Southern States of the Union, such as Georgia, North and South Carolina, and Virginia, are neither so hot nor so unhealthy as they are generally supposed to be ; neither are the extreme Northern States, or the Canadas, or New Brunswick, or Nova Scotia, so cold as they are usually sup- posed to be. As regards the former, while parts of them are too hot and too unhealthy to be comfortable or desirable locations for a European, yet other parts of them, among the hill-country and villages of the western portions, enjoy a temperate climate, which is not merely consistent with, but also conducive to, comfort and longevity. While as regards the latter, it may be safely laid down as a general truth that, though the winters arc somewhat colder than they are in Great Britain, they are also much drier ; and while they do not exceed, even in Nova Scotia, an average of four months' duration, the spring and summer are characterized by a luxuriance and rapidity of vegetation which adapts the north par- ticularly to agricultural pursuits. Moreover, the chief cities of Canada, New BrunsTvick, Nova Scotia, &c., are all to the south of Great Britain. There are thus, at all events, very great variations of climate in the North American continent, from an almost tropical heat to a great intensity of cold; and these varieties are not to be judged of simply by a knowledge of the latitude and longitude of the parti- cular places : therefore the emigrant should carefully acquaint himself, through channels on which he can rely, regarding the particulars of the climate of his contemplated location, ere he leaves his native country. After climate, the selection of soil is the next matter to be attended to. Here the choice is so great as to be very puzzling. In the United Stat£^s, the price of the Government lands is one 836 EMIGRATION. dollar and a quarter an acre. But these lands lie chiefly in the newly-settled states ; and I found it tr be the generally expressed opinion of intelligent Americans, that the emigrant from Europe would find it more to his advantage to secure lands in some of the older states, even though he should do so by the payment of a considerably enhanced price. If the lands in the new states are lower, there are disadvantages in the thinness of the population, and in the want of roads and markets ; while in the older states, if the price of land be higher, there are great advantages in suffi- ciency of labour and means of transit. Besides, the price of land in the older settlements is not very much higher than it is in the new — at least if favourable opportunities of purchase be watched and taken advantage of. In 1849, while the California mania was in the height of its fervour, and even at a later date, lands were to be had in North America, in localities where the roads were good, the markets accessible, and the institutions of the country, with all the appliances for comfort and even luxury, in a forward state, at very moderate prices — such prices a j two, three, or four dollars per acre, according to the comparative advantages of location. More- over, the purchase of lands in sucu localities makes the change of country less felt than when it is to a remoter, ruder, and newer scene ; and there are always plenty of persons to be found who, from a variety of causes, are disposed to sell their established par- tially-cleared farms, and either depart to the south in search of gold, or go farther onwards to clear for themselves a new home on the outer extremity of civilized life, as the pioneers of advancing civilization. The above remarks on locality have more peculiar application to the United States ; but they apply also to the British possessions in North America. In these colonies also it is true that the emigrant often commits the mistake of choosing a lonely location, in a part of the country comparatively unsettled, when a very little more of original expenditure would secure him better land^ in a settled com- munity, and with ready access to markets. Having formed his resolution regarding climate and soil, let the emigrant look well to the sufficiency of the title he may get to any land he may invest a part of his money in purchasing. In the British possessions this is easy enough; and I have great pleasure in saying, on the information of many professional friends in the United States, that if the matter bo properly gone about, it is there as easy. There is an error generally prevalent on this subject in Great Brtain. Land titles in the American Union are not environed with more diffi- culties than they are in this country. There is no reason they should be so; inasmuch as American lawyers, as a body, are abundantly acute and able^ and, I have much pleasure in adding, liiglily honour- 1 ! EMIGRATION. 337 lie chiefly in the nerally expressed ant from Europe is in some of the he payment of a le new states are )f the population, 1 the older states, ivantages in suffi- the price of land than it is in the chase be watched iifornia mania was late, lands were to J roads were good, e country, with all I forward state, at or four dollars per ' location. More- ikes the change of ruder, and newer to be found who, ir established par- )uth in search of es a new home on eers of advancing iar application to itish possessions ia that the emigrant ation, in a part of ry little more of in a settled com- e and soil, let the le may get to any irchasing. In the great pleasure in ends in the United it is there as easy. 3t in Great Brtain. ed with more diffi- reason they should y, are abundantly iiy;, ljirevious emigrants, ntically stated that settlement of the mount remitted on rpool and different through the house no return,) was in for consideration J yrhether it is expe- at tide of emigra- ncreasing. With ;hat to do so were se lands, already called upon to aid of such of their (se of the lands to onger call, and a deeper interest, in the matter — although this is a view of the ques- tion to which much attention has not yet been directed. If emi- gration, properly conducted, tends to the relief ^ a too thickly- peopled country, immigration properly conducted, will tend to the advancement of a nation whose territory is too extensive for its population. In both these cases there is the same necessity for the adoption of controlling measures. Emigration may weaken and impoverish when it should only relieve. Immigration may demoralize and debase, when it should only supply the means of subjugating the soil. If in either case evil is the issue, the fault lies not in encouraging the one or in promoting the other, but in the absence of proper measures of regulation or control. As na- tives of a land whence numbers of the community are annually removing themselves, it is with emigration that the British public have to do ; and few among them can fail to rejoice at the spirit which has lately manifested itself to adopt measures for the pro- tection and safety of those whom difficulties at homt, or any other causes, may induce to seek a new and distant home in any of Great Britain's numerous and noble colonies, or even in other lands. CHAPTER XVI. "Lives there the man Whose heart hath ne'er within him burned, When home his footsteps he hath turned From wandering on a foreign strand." Scott. Trite as is the above quotation, it accurately describes a feeling which more or less pervades every one of whose composition love of country forms a part. We may talk and write of being cosmo- polites, and it is right and proper that we should often feel, and generally act as if we were so. But there is an * iner shrine for love of country and home ; and strangely constituted must be the heart that can return to the shores of his native land without some feelings of pleasurable emotion. What may be the feelings of the man who has expatriated himself for nearly a lifetime, or oven for a series of years, I cannot pretend to say ; but this I can affirm, that it was with much satisfaction, excitement, and plea- sant sensation that, the pain of the farewell to my kind friends in Boston over, I found myself on the morning after going on beard the steamship Caledonia, Captain Leitch, bounding onwards in the course for the white cliffs of Old England. 29* 342 HALIFAX. A sail of some forty hours brought us to Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, which I was agreeably surprised to find both a larger and a better built town than the descriptions of others had led me to expect. The most favourable view of Halifax iis from the sea — as it stands on the declivity of a hill of about tv7o hundred and fifty feet high — the sides of which are thus seen covered with warehouses, dwelling-houses, and public buildings, rearing their heads in rows, one over the other, up to the summit. These buildings are inter- spersed and enlivened with the spires of the chu .'ches, and of some other erections ; and, amongst the wholC; a rotunda-looking Dutch church ard the signal-posts on Citadel Hill stand conspicuous. To these elements add the different batteries — the variety in the style in which the houses are built, and of the colours with which they are painted ; the rows of trees showing themselves in different parts of the town j the numerous ships moored opposite the dockyard, with the establishments and tall shears of the latter ; the merchant vessels under sail, or at anchor, or moored alongside the wharves; the wooded and rocky scenery of the background, with the island and small town of Dartmouth on the opposite shore — and the reader will see at once that there is much in a view of Halifax, Nova Scotia, which is calculated to gratify a visitor. It fortunately happened that the day of our arrival at Halifax was the centenary of the first establishment of the town, by the British in 1749, in which year it was founded in order o protect the British settlements in Nova Scotia from the attacks of the French and the Indians. Preparations had been made for the celebration of the day by a salute of a hundred guns, ringing of bells, review of troops, and display of fireworks. Brief, therefore, as was our stay in Halifax, we were privileged to see it in full dress, and the two hours* ramble through its streets presented more incidents to interest and amuse than, in other circumstances, could have been anticipated. Silken and satin badges, in commemoration of the event, had been prepared ; and a colonial bard had composed, printed, and published a Song for the Centenary, in lines of great sweetness of versification as well as of considerable poetic power, and commencing with the verse, " Hail to the day! when the Britons came over, And planted their standard with sea-foam all wet ; Above and around us their spirits still hover, Kejoicing to mark how we honour it yet." The public buildings of Halifax are, the Provincial building, which is about 140 feet long, by 70 broad, and has a handsome Ionic colon- nade ; the Government House, a somewhat gloomy-looking but sub- stantial stone edifice ; and Dalhousie College, a fine building, erected of free stone. These, and the very spacious and superior dockyards, ICEBERGS. 343 'ax, the capital of ad both a larger jrs had led me to )m the sea — as it [red and fifty feet with warehouses, ir heads in rows, lildings are inter- ihes, and of some ia-looking Dutch conspicuous. To 3ty in the style in li which they are different parts of le dockyard, with merchant vessels he wharves; the ;h the island and id the reader will ifax, Nova Scotia, al at Halifax was ^n, by the British rotect the British French and the jration of the day lew of troops, and stay in Halifax, wo hours' ramble iterest and amuse icipated. Silken id been prepared ; lished a Song for ication as well as the verse, ivct ; l1 building, which some Ionic colon- -looking but sub- building, erected perior dockyards, I which cover a space of about fourteen acres, may be said to consti- tute the celebrities of the capital of Nova Scotia. Leaving Halifax, we found ourselves once more at sea, steaming onward, at an increased rate, as the vessel gradually rose in the water on the equally gradual consumption of the heavy cargo of coals with which she had started from Boston. The incidents even of the most agreeable sea voyage do not afford much that would interest in the narration ; and if that be the case even in a sailing vessel — where there is always the rise and fall and direction of the wind as a subject for speculation, and not unfre- quently the amusement of fishing for the monsters of the deep, as " slow the ship" is tracking her progress through the waters — far more true must it be when the voyage is performed in a steamship. Still there were one or two occurrences to note even in the voyage in question. We saw numerous icebergs, a multitude of whales, and enjoyed at least the report that something " as long, sir, as a snake" had been seen performing its evolutions in the vicinity of the ship. Within two days after leaving Halifax we came in sight of the icebergs, and, during that and the followiiig day, a great many such sparkling islets were visible from the deck. Not less than eight large ones were within near view at one time. The sun shone brightly during the forenoon of each day, and it were not easy to conceive a more beautiful sight than these masses of ice displayed under the in- fluence of his rays. Like most of my fellow-passengers, my attention was particularly directed to the appearance of two of them. The first, to which we approached within the distance of less than a mile, was generally estimated at from 200 to 250 feet high from the sur- face of the water — although it is a curious study to observe the va- riety of the conclusions as to the size and distance of objects to which different members of the same party will arrive when the eye alone is the guide. The upper part of the " berg" was of the purest white, as if powdered over with snow, while the base was washed smooth, clear, and somewhat hollow j and the dark-blue wave, as it surged upon it, shone green, or sparkled into foam, in a singularly beautiful manner. When first seen, this ocean-wanderer from the northern seas appeared to all on board as bearing an exact resem- blance to a lion couchant ; and this semblance it bore during the whole time it continued within view. Ere it faded into distant view, the other I have alluded to attracted the general notice. It was con- siderably larger in every way than the one already described; and as we approached, neared, passed, and receded from it, the appearances it assumed were ever varying. At one time the exclamation was, How like a perfect fortress of ice ! at another. How strongly it resem- bles a Gothic ruin ! These, and the several appearances of moun- tains, churches, monasteries, Swiss mountain and adjacent goatherds' 844 A SH N*L OF WHALES. cottage, all had their advocales, ani each could appeal to the beau- tiful object itself for some sort of countenance to the similarity which his own imagination had been partly instrumental in forming. The danger of coming into actual contact with such stern wan- derers of the ocean is, of coi.rse, much less in a steamship than in a sailing one ; but, nevertheless, it seems but too probable that such was the mode in which the ill-fated President, and her whole living freight of crew and passengers, were hurried into eternity: and now, when steaming in the very track in which, in all probability, they were at the time proceeding, and in sight of objects of the same species as those which had sunk them to the bottom, most natural was it that the memory of the gallant Roberts, and his ill- fated crew and passeugers, should rise upon the mind with much freshness of recollection. So great a length of time has now elapsed since the event allude i to occurred, without any certain intelligence being obtained on which a competent opinion can be formed as to the exact mode in which the President was lost, that there is no piobability of the truth being known to us, till the day of the reve- lation of all things — that day when " the sea shall give up its dead." But th t the destruction was a violent one, although in open sea, is certain ; and it is little less so that it occurred in the manner I have suppo.'sed, and in the darkness of night, after " The sunless day went down Over the waste of waters like a veil." Even while yet among the icebergs, we saw several whales, but it was nut till the last :f the bergs had faded into thin air that we came to the places where it would seem these monsters " most do congregate." And there they were in number plentiful — ahead, astern, and on every side of us. At some distance they seemed to be reposing on the water — their dark backs alone visible, to an extent of about the size of the back of a horse, or occasionally rolling over in porpoise-like rolls, as if amusing themselves in lazy gambols. As the ship approached nearer — sometimes so near that the bow or paddles were within twenty or thirty yards of the huge animals ere they appeared to observe us — they threw up their tails three or four, or occasionally six feet out of the water, levealed the white^underskin beneath, and plunged into the deep abyss, to rise and " spout" at some considerable distance from the ship. One of them performed such-like evolutions within only a few feet of the paddle-box, on which about half-a-dozen of the passengers were standing watching his motions ; and, on comparing notes with several of my fellow- passengers, I found the prevalent opinion to be, that, in the course of a few hours, we had seen, within near view, fully a hundred of these fish-like beasts. Of >/hat particular species they were, I did 1 i I SEA-SERPENT. 345 »peal to the beau- le similarity which in forming. ii such st^rn wan- steamship than in probable that such 1 her whole living Qto eternity: and in all probability, of objects of the the bottom, most oberts, and his ill- mind with much le has now elapsed ;ertain intelligence n be formed as to ;, that there is no e day of the reve- give up its dead." igh in open sea, is the manner I have era! whales, but it thin air that we tonsters " most do plentiful — ahead, ce they seemed to one visible, to an >ccasionally rolling ;s in lazy gambols. ,r that the bow or huge auimals ere tails three or four, le white_underskin Ise and " spout" at them performed he paddle-box, on standing watching iral of my fellow- that, in the course 'ully a hundred of s they were, I did not inquire ; and as to the nature of the occupations in which they were engaged, they had so much the appearance of enjoying them- selves with their young, in their appropriate ocean-home, that I was reminded of the facetious description of a whale's probable pleasures, put into the mouth of Hogg, in the " Noctes Ambrosianae" of Black- wood, where the Shepherd says — " Let me see — I sud hae nae great objections to bo a whale in the polar seas. Gran' fun to fling a boatful of harpooners into the air, or wi' ae thud o' your tail to drive in the stern-ports of a Greenlandman. But then whales marry but ae wife, and are passionately attached to their offspring. There they and I are congenial speerits. Nae fish that swims enjrys so large a share o' domestic happiness." It was on the morning after we had passed through the longest herd or flock of whales, that the incident occurred regarding the sea- serpent, of which casual mention has already been made. But, inas- much as the first report of a snake having been seen from the deck of the ship, about two o'clock in the morning, degenerated into the fact that, at the hour named, one of the passengers, and the officer on the watch, had observed a motion in the waters which had a strong rcsembbiiCe to the undulating movement in the waves which would be produced by the rapid swimming of a large member of the serpent tribe, the matter would not have been worthy of allusion, had it not been for i;he discussion which resulted from it on this questio vexata, of the piobable existence of some such monster — which is not merely amphibious, as most serpents are, but which is so provided, by natural adaptation, as to be able to make the sea its home, just as is done by the whale and other animals, even of the genus mammalia. To judge from the statements of some of the parties on board, having reference to the personal experience of themselves, or of their own credible acquaintances, there would seem to be little doubt of the existence of some such inhabitant of the " world of waters." And, after the description given of the animal, seen some years ago by a clergyman and others in the Hebridean sea — of the one seen several times, and by different parties, off the coast of North America, and particularly off New York and Boston and the shores of Nova Scotia— of the brute clearly seen and minutely described by Captain M'Qhae of the Daedalus and some of the officers of that ship, when cruising in the South Atlantic Ocean in 1848, (not to say anything of the more ancient, but equally graphic account of Pontoppidan,) — it is surely more probable that some such animal exists, than that these various parties have either been deceived themselves, or are attempting to deceive the rest of mankind. The latter idea is now out of the ques- tion, and the former seems equally excluded by the very minuteness of the description given by the witnesses themselves. That few such animals have been seen makes nothing against the fact of their exist- 346 HOME. ence. They may be few in number, and there may be good and sufficient reason why they are so, or why they are but rarely seen by human eye, although it may be impossible to adopt the theory, that the existing sea-serpent of American fame is " the only ane o' his species noo extant ; and, whether he dees in his bed, or is slain by Jonathan, must incur the pain and opprobrium o' defunckin' an auld batchelor."* The other incidents of the voyage — the sighting and passing Capo Clear, the going up Channel, the arrival at Liverpool, and the return home, I leave to the imagination of my readers, — thanking them for having accompanied me thus far ; and assuring them, that, if they should ever be disposed to take such a voyage, and such a round, it is my fervent hope that they may derive from it as much benefit, and as much pleasure, as it was productive of in the case of THE AUTHOR. ♦ See Blachoood for July 1827. may be good and re but rarely seen adopt the theory, IS " the only ane o' bis bed, or is slain m o' defunckin' an y and passing Capo ool, and the return ■thanking them for )hem, that; if they id such a round, it I much benefit; and ase of THE AUTHOR. APPENDIX. DANISH EMANCIPATION ACT OF 3d JULY, 1848. Jeo Peter Carl Frederik v. Scholten Gior villerligt: 1. AUe Ufrie paa de danske vestindiske Oer ere fra Dags Date frigivne. 2. Negerne paa Plantagerne beholde i 3 Maaneder fra Dato Brugen af de Huse og Provisionsgrunde, hvoraf de nu ere i Besiddelse. 3. Arbeide betales for Fremtiden efter Overeenskomst, hvorimod Allowance ophorer. 4. Underholdningen af Gamle og Svage, som ere ude af Stand til at arbeide, af holdes indtil naermere Bestemmelse af deres forrige Eiere. Givet under General Gouvernementets Segl og min Haand. General Gouvernementet over de danske vestindiske Oer, St. Croix den 3die Juli, 1848. (L. S.) P. V. Scholten. [translation.] I Peter Charles Frederick v. Scholten, Maketh known: 1. All Unfree in the Danish West India Island are from to-day emancipated. 2. The Estate Negroes retain, for three months from date, the use of the houses and provision-grounds, of which they have hitherto been possessed. 848 APPENDIX. ■i^lti f 3. Labour is in future to be paid for by agreement, but allow- ance is to cease. 3. The maintenance of old and infirm, who are not able to work, is, until farther determination, to be furnished by the late owners. Given under the General Government's Seal and my Hand. General Government of the Danish West India Islands, St. Croix, the 3d July, 1848. (L. S.) P. V. SCHOLTEN. J Translation of the Provisional Act to regulate the relations be- tween the Proprietors of Landed Estates and the Bural Popula- tion of Free Labourers. I, Peter Hansen, Knight Commander of the Order of Danne- brog, the King's Commissioner for and officiating Governor- General of the Danish West Indiau Islands, Make known : That whereas the Ordinance dated 29th July, 1848, by which yearly contracts for labour on landed estates were introduced, has not been duly acted upon ; whereas the interest of the proprietors of estates, as well as of the labourers, requires that their mutual obligations should be defined; and whereas, on inquiry into the practice of the island, and into the private contracts and agreements hitherto made, it appears expedient to establish uniform rules throughout the island for the guidance of all parties con- cerned. It is enacted and ordained : Para. 1. All engagements of labourers now domiciled on landed estates and receiving wages in money, or in kind, for cultivating and working such estates, are to be continued as directed by the ordinance of 29th July, 1848, until the first day of October of the oresent year ; and all similar engagements shall in future be made, or shall be considered as having been made, for a term of twelve months, viz : from the first of October till the first of October, y<^ar after year. Engagements made by heads of families are to include their children between five and fifteen years of age, and other relatives depending on them and staying with them. Para. 2. No labourer engaged as aforesaid in the cultivation of the soil, shall be discharged or dismissed from, nor shall be per- mitted to dissolve, his or her engagement before the expiration of ement, but allow- ) are not able to lished by the late md my Hand, [ndia Islands^ St. . V. SCHOLTEN. e the relations be- the Bural Popula- e Order of Danne- siating Governor- dated 29th July, mded estates were •eas the interest of irers, requires that hereas, on inquiry rate contracts and establish uniform »f all parties con- )miciled on landed ad, for cultivating directed by the r of October of the in future be made, a term of twelve first of October, to include their nd other relatives the cultivation of nor shall be per- the expiration of APPENDIX. 349 the same on the first of October of the present, or of any follow- ing year, except in the instances hereafter enumerated : A. By mutual agreement of mastor and labourer before a Magistrate. B. By order of a Magistrate, on just and equitable cause being shown by the parties interested. Legal marriage, and the natural tie between mothers and their children, shall be deemed by the Magistrate just and legal cause of removal from one estate to another. The husband shall have the right to be removsd to his wife, the wife to her husband, and chil- dren under fifteen years of age to their mother, provided no objection to employing such individuals shall be made by the owner of the estate to which the removal is to take piece. Para. 3. No engagement of a labourer shall be lawful in future unless made in the presence of witnesses and entered in the day- book of the estate. Para. 4. Notice to quit service shall be given by the employer, as well as by the labourer, at no other period but once a-year in the month of August, not before the first, nor after the last day of the said month. An entry thereof shall be made in the day- book, and an acknowledgment in writing shall be given to the labourer. The labourer shall have given, or received, legal notice of removal from the estate where he serves, before any one can engage his services. Otherwise the new contract to be void, and the party engaging or tampering with a labourer employed by others will be dealt with according to law. In case any owner or manager of an estate should dismiss a labourer during the year without sufficient cause, or should refuse to receive him at the time stipulated, or refuse to grant him a passport when due notice of removal has been given, the owner or the manager is to pay full damages to the labourer, and to be sentenced to a fine not exceeding twenty dollars. Para. 5. Labourers employed or rated as first, second, or third class labourers, shall perform all the work in the field or about the works, or otherwise concerning the estate, which it hitherto has been customary for such labourers to perform, according to the season. They shall attend faithfully to their work, and willingly obey the directions given by the employer or the person appointed by him. No labourer shall presume to dictate what work he, or she, is to do, or refuse the work he may be ordered to perform, unless expressly engaged for some particular work only. If a labourer thinks himself aggrieved, he shall not therefore leave the work, but in due time apply for redress to the owner of the estate, or to the Magistrate. ^ 80 350 APPENDIX. k It is the duty of all labourers on all occasions and at all times to protect the property of his employer, to prevent mischief to the estate, to apprehend evil-doers, and not to give countenance to or conceal unlawful practices. Para. 6. The working days to be as usual, only five days in the week, and the same days as hitherto. The ordinary work of estates is to commence at sunrise and to be finished at sunset every day, leaving one hour for breakfast, and two hours at noon, from twelve to two o'clock. • Planters who prefer to begin the work at seven o'clock in the morning, making no separate breakfast time, are at liberty to adopt this plan, either during the year, or when out of crop. The labourers shall be present in due time at the place where they are to work. The list to be called and answered regularly ; whoever does not answer the list when called, is too late. Para. 7. No throwing of grass, or of wood, shall be exacted during extra hours, all former agreements to the contrary not- withstanding ; but during crop the labourers are expected to bring home a bundle of longtops from the field where they are at work. Cartmeta and crookpeople when breaking off, shall attend properly to their stock as hitherto usual. Para. 8. During crop the mill gang, the crook gang, boilermen, firemen, still-men, and any other person employed about the mill and the boiling-house, shall continue their work during breakfast and noon hours, as hitherto usual; and the boilermen, firemen, magass carriers, &c., also during evening hours after sunset, when required; but all workmen employed as aforesaid shall be paid an extra remuneration for the work done by them in extra hours. The boiling-house is to bo cleared, the mill to be washed down and the magass to be swept up, before the labourers leave the work, as hitherto usual. The mill is not to turn after six o'clock in the evening, and the boiling not to be continued after ten o'clock, e.»',ept by special per- mission of the Governor-General, who then wlil determine if any, and what extra remuneration shall be paid to the labouiers. Para. 9. The labourers are to receive, until otherwise ordered, the following remuneration : A. The use of a house, or dwelling-rooms for themselves and their children, to be built and repaired by the estate, but to be kept in proper order by the labourers. B. The use of a piece of provision ground, thirty feet in square as usual, for every first and second class labourer ; or if it be standing ground up to fifty feet in square. Third class labourers are not en- titled to, but may be allowed some provision ground. APPENDIX. 851 ind at all times t mischief to the untenance to or J five days in the y work of estates unset every day, oon, from twelve n o'clock in the it liberty to adopt crop. the place where ;7ered regularly ; 00 late. shall be exacted ihe contrary not- are expected to rhere they are at 11 attend properly gang, boilermen, d about the mill during breakfast dlermen, firemen, fter sunset, when shall be paid an extra hours. washed down and eave the work, as evening, and the pt by special per- determine if any, abourers. (therwise ordered, smselves and their but to be kept in y feet in square as * if it be standing Durera are not en- id. C. Weekly wages at the rate of fifteen cents to every first class labourer, of ten cents to every second class labourer, and of five cents to every third class labourer, for every working day. Where the usual allowance of meal and herrings has been agreed on in part of wages, full weekly allowance shall be taken for five cents a day, or twenty-five cents a week. Nurses losing two hours every working day shall be paid at the rate of four full working days in the week. The wages of minors to be paid as usual to their parents, or to the person in charge of them. Labourers not calling at pay-time personally, or by another autho- rized, to wait till next pay-day, unless they were prevented by work- ing for the estate. No attachment of wages for private debts to be allowed, nor more than two-thirds to be deducted for debts to the estate, unless other- wise ordered by the magistrate. Extra provisions occasionally given during the ordinary working hours are not to be claimed as a right, nor to be bargained for. Para. 10. Work in extra hours during crop is to be paid as follows :— To the mill gang and to the crook gang for working through the breakfast hour one stiver, and working through noon two stivers per day. Extra provision is not to be given, except at the option of the la- I bourers, in place of the money or in part of it. j The boilermen, firemen, and magass carriers are to receive for all I days, when the boiling is carried on until late hours, a maximum pay \ of twenty (20) cents per day. No bargaining for extra pay by the I hour is permiw^d. I Labourers working such extra hours only by turns are not to have I additional payment. I Para. 11. Tradesmen on estates are considered as engaged to per- I form the same work as hitherto usual, assisting in the field, carting, V potting sugar, &c. They shall be rated as first, second, and third ; class labourers, according to their proficiency. Where no definite j terms have been agreed on previously, the wages of first clasL trades- I men, having full work in their trade, are to be twenty (^20) cents j per day. Any existing contract with tradesmen is to continue until j October next. 1 No tradesman is allowed to keep apprentices without the consent I of the owner of the estate. Such apprentices to be bound for no less ' period than three years, and not to be removed without the permis- , sion of the magistrate. I Para. 12. No labourer is obliged to work for others on Saturdays, but if they chose to work for hire, L is proper that they should give 352 APPENDIX. their own estate tbe preference. For a fall day's work on Saturday there shall not be asked for not given more than : — Twenty (20) cents to a first-class labourer. Thirteen (13) cents to a second-class labourer. Seven (7) cents to a third-class labourer. Work on Saturday may however be ordered by the magistrate as a punishment to the labourer, for having absented himself from work during the week for one whole day or more, and for having been idle during the week ; and then the labourer shall not receive more than his usual pay for a common day's work. Para. 13. All the male labourers, tradesmen included, above eighteen years of age, working on an estate, are bound to take tbe usual night-watch by turns, but only once in ten days. Notice to be given before noon to brdak off from work in the afternoon with the nurses, and to come to work next day at 8 o'clock. The watch to be delivered in the usual manner by nightfall and by sun* rise. The above rule shall not be compulsory, except where voluntary watchmen cannot be obtained at a hire the planters may be willing to give, to save the time lost by employing their ordinary labourers as watchmen. Likewise the male labourers are bound, once a-month, on Sundays and holidays, to take the day-watch about the yard, and to act as pasture-men, on receiving their usual pay for a week-day's work. This rule applies also to the crook-boys. All orders about the watches to be duly entered iu the day-book of the estate. Should a labourer, having been duly warned to take the watch, not attend, another labourer is to be hired in the place of the absentee and at his expense, not however to exceed fifteen cents. The person who wilfully leaves the watch or neglects it, is to be reported to the magistrate and punished as the cause merits. Para. 14. Labourers wilfully abstaining from work on a working day are to forfeit their wages for the day, and will have to pay over and above the forfeit a fine which can be lawfully deducted in their wages, of seven (7) cents for a first class labourer, five (5) cents for a second class labourer, and (2) cents for a third class labourer. In crop, on grinding days, when employed about the works, in cutting canes or in crook, an additional punishmeiit will be awarded for wilful absence and neglecii' by ^he magistrate, on complaint being made. Labourers abstaining from work for half a day, or breaking of from work before being dismissed, to forfeit their wages for one day. Ldl}0Hrers not coming to work in due time to forfeit half a day's wages. APPENDIX. work on Saturday 353 ( the magistrate as himself from work ir having been idle receive more than 1 included; above bound to take the I days. Notice to in the afternoon It 8 o'clock. The htfall and by sun* >t where voluntary !T8 may be willing ordinary labourers nonth, on Sundays ard, and to act as week-day's work. 9d i'A the day-book to take the watch, ace of the absentee cents. The person be reported to the jvork on a working I have to pay over r deducted in their five (5) cents for jlass labourer. )Out the works, in t will be awarded n complaint being r.i y, or breaking off wages for one day. forfeit half a day's Parents keeping their children from work shall be fined instead of the children. No charge of house-rent is to be made in future on account of absence from work, or for the Saturday. Para. 15. Labourers wilfully abstaining from work for two or three days during the week, or habitually absenting themselves, or working badly and lazily, shall be punished as the case merits, on complaint to the magistrate. Para. 16. Labourers assaulting any person in authority on the estate, or planning and conspiring to retard, or to stop, the work of the estate, or uniting to abstain from work, or to break their engage- ments, shall be punished according to law on investigation before a magistrate. Para. 17. Until measures can be adopted for securing medical attendance to the labourers, and for regulating the treatment of the sick and infirm, it is ordered : That infirm persons, unfit fo "^ any work, shall as hitherto be main- tained on the estates where they are domiciled, and be attended to by their next relations. That parents or children of such infirm persons shall not remove from the estate, leaving them behind, without making provision for them to the satisfaction of the owner, or of the magistrate. That labourers unable to attend to work on account of illness, or on account of having sick children, shall make a report to the manager, or any other person in authority on the estate, who, if the case appears dangerous, and the sick person destitute, shall cause medical assistance to be given. That all sick labourers, willing to remain in the hospital during their illness, shall there be attended to at the cost of the estate. Para. 18. If a labourer reported sick, shall be at any time found absent from the estate without leave, or is trespassing about the estate, or found occupied with work requiring health, he shall be considered skulkingly and wilfully absent from work. When a labourer pretends illness, and is not apparently sick, it shall be his duty to prove his illness by medical certificate. Para. 19. Pregnant women shall be at liberty to work with the small gang as customary, and when confined not to be called on to work for seven weeks after their confinement. Young ciiildren shall be fed and attended to during the hours of work at some proper place, at the cost of the estate. Nobody is allowed to stay from work on pretence of attending a sick person, except the wife and the mother, in dangerous cases of illness. Para. 20. It is the duty of the managers to report to the police any contagious or suspicious cases of illness and death ; especially 354 APPENDIX. t II when gross neglect is believed to have taken place, or when children have been neglected by their mothers, in order that the guilty per- son may be punished according to law. Para. 21. The driver or foreman on the estate is to receive in wages four and a half dollars monthly, if no other terms have been agreed ol. The driver may be dismissed at any time during the year with the consent of the magistrate. It is the duty of the driver to see the work duly performed, to maintain order and peace on the estate, during the work and at other times, and to prevent and report all offences committed. Should any labourer insult, or use insulting language towards him during, or on account of the performance of his duties, such person is to be punished according to law. Para. 22. No labourer is allowed, without the special permission of the owner or manager, to appropriate wood, grass, vegetables, fruits and the like, belonging to the estate, nor to appropriate such produce from other estates, nor to cut canes, or to burn charcoal. Persons making themselves guilty of such offences shall be punished accord- ing to law, with fines or imprisonment with hard labour ; and the possession of such articles not satisfactorily accounted for, shall be sufficient evidence of unlawful acquisition. Para. 23. All agrements contrary to the above rules are to be null and void, and owners and managers of estates convicted of any prac- tice tending wilfully to counteract, or avoid, these rules by direct or indirect means, shall be subject to a fine not exceeding 200 dollars. Government House, St. Croix, 26th January, 1849. P. Hansen. I PINIS. e, or when children that the guilty per> ate is to receive in er terms have been ly time during the e duty of the driver ir and peace on the • prevent and report lit, or use insulting the performance of ,g to law. i special permission js, vegetables, fruits priate such produce charcoal. Persons >e punished accord- d labour; and the anted for, shall be rules are to be null ivicted of any prac- i rules by direct or sding 200 dollars. 1849. P. Hansen. %* 1 ,^. N ■" » > re de pr a • as lu CO lai su in ■ m fr( tu Jc CO m in sc th ad sc do < . n gu an( grt wo po) i 1 ree 1 ' we an via by led wh pre ihu |i|8 1 LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. I LYNCH'S DEAD SEA. CONDENSED AND CHEAPER EDITION. NOW READY. NARRATiVE OF ThTu. S. EXPEDITION TO THE DEAD SEA AND RIVER JORDAN. BY W. F. LYNCH, U. S. N., Commaiidcrof the Expedition. New and condensed edition, with a Map, from actual Surveys. In one neat royal 12mo. volume, extra cloth. The universal curiosity excited by the interesting narrative of this remarkable expedition, has induced the author to prepare a con- densed edition for popular use, which is now finished, at a very low price. In preparing the former editions, the olyect was to produce a work worthy in every respect of the national character which it assumed, and no pains or expense was spared in bringing out a vo- lume as handsome as anything of the kind as ye*^^ prepared in this country. The great demand, which has rapidly -.ii.' msted many large impressions of this edition, notwithstanu'i g i price, is a sufficient proof of the intrinsic value and inter^• of i work ; and in presenting this new and cheaper edition, tji? . ubiishers would merely state that it contains all the substance -.i "hv former volume, from the time the expedition reached Lake Tibo " js till its depar- ture from Jerusalem, embracing all the expl 'ations upon the river Jordan and the Dead Sea. Some matter ii. : . preliminary and concluding chapters has been omitted or condensed, and the two maps of the former edition have been reduced in one, preserv- ing, however, all the more important features of the country de- scribed. In its present form, therefore, afforded at about one-third the price of the more costly issue, in a neat and handsome volume, admirably adapted for parlor or fireside reading, or for district schools, Sabbath schools, and other libraries, the publishers confi- dently anticipate a very extensive demand. Copies may still be had of the FINE EDITION, In one very large and handsome octavo volume, With Twenty-eight beautiful Plates, and Two Maps. This book, so long and anxiously expected, fully sustains the hopes of the most san- guine and fastidious. It is truly a magnificent work. Thetype,paper, binding, style, and execution are all of the best and highest character, as are also the maps and en- gravings. It will do more to elevate the character of our national literature than any work that has appeared for years. The intrinsic interest of the subject will give it popularity and immortality at once. It must be read to be appreciated ; and it will be read extensively, and valued, both in this and other countries.— L«di/'s Book, Aug. 1849. When, however, he fairly "gets under wt igh," every page possesses interest, and we follow him with eagerness in his perilous and tortuous voyage down the Jordan, and his explorations of the mysterious sen, upon which the curse of the Almighty visibly rests. His privations, toils, and dangers were numerous, but were rewarded by success where all others had failed. He has contributed materially to our know- ledge of scriplural Geography, particularly in his charlsof the .lordan and Dead Sea, which he fully explored. If our readers wish to know all he has done, they must procure and read his book ; we cannot give even an outline of it. We can only add that the publishers have done their full duly in their depariinenl, and the maps and Jilates are all that could be desired.— Prwftytf nan. * LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. m KENNEDY'S LIFE OP WIRT. CHEAPER EDITION, NOW READY. MEMOIRS OF THE LIFE OF WILLIAM WIRT. BY JOHN P. KENNEDY. SECOND EDITION, REVISED. In two large and handsome 12mo. volumes, with a Portrait and fac-simile of a letter from John Adams. ALSO, A bandaome lilbrary Edition, In two beautifully printed octavo volumes* The whole of Mr. Wirt's Papers, Correspondence. Diaries, &c., having l)een placed in the hands of Mr. Kennedy, to be u?ed in this work : it will be found to contain much that is new and interestii'^ relative to the political history of the times, as well as to the private life of Mr. Wiit. The exceedingly favorable manner in which this work has been everywhere received, having rapidly exhausted the first edition, the publishers have pleasure in presenting a second, revised, in a smniler form and at a lower price. In so doing, they have been desirous to meet the wishes of many with whom its former cost was an objection. In its present neat and convenient form, the work is eminently fitted to assume the position which it merits as a hook for every parlor- table and for every fire-side where there is an appreciation of the kindliness and manliness, the intellect and the aiTection, the wit and liveliness which rendered William Wirt at once so emi- nent in the world, so brilliunt in society, ar'i so loving and loved in the retirement of his domestic circle. Uniting nil these attr; ctions, it cannot fail to find a place in every private and public library, and in all collections of books for the use of schools and colleges; for the young can have before them no brighter example of what can be accomplished by industry and resolution, than the life of William Wirt, as uncon- sciously related by himself in these volumes. The approbation bestowed upon this work by the press has been universal. From among numerous recommendatory notices, the publishers submit a few. One of the most valuable books of the season, and certainly one of the most enter- taining works ever published in this country. Mr. Kennedy is admirably qualified for the preparation of such a work, and has evidently had access to a great variety of useful material. The work is one which should be in the hands of every young man in the country. Its Intrinsic interest will secure it a very general popularity.— iV. Y. Courier and Enquirer. The fascinating letters of Mr. Wirt, one of the most brilliant and agreeable men of the day, in themselves furnish a rich fund of instruction and enjoyment.— Richm^d Inq. Tliis work has been looked for with much interest by the public, and will not disap- point the high expectations justly based upon the well-known talents of the author, and the abundant materials left by the distinguish'^d orator and jurist, to which he has had free access. — Baltimore American, The style is at once vigorous and fascinating, and the interest of the most absorbing character.— Philadelphia Inquirer Mr. Kennedy is one of the very finest of American writers. He never touches a subject that he does not adorn— and it is fortunate for the memory of Mr. Wirt that the history of his life has fallen into such hands. The publishers have performed their task in excellent style. The paper and the type are good, and the whole getting u{) is admirable. — Richmond Whig. Mr. Kennedy has indeed given us two delightful and instructive volumes. No part of what he has thus brought together could have been omitted without detriment to the perfect picture of the great man who held for twelve years the important office of Attorney-Generfil of these United States. Inwoven with the biographical anec- dotes, letters, and speeches, are elucidatory threads that guide the reader to a better understanding of various matters of history, and give a general and permanent value to the work. A fine portrait is prefixed to the first volume, and a curious fac-simile of a letter from John Adams is given in the second — N. Y. Commercial AdveTiiser, Mr. Kennedy has made a couple of very interesting volumes. He has not disap- pointed the expectations of those who know his powers, and had enjoyed the spirit, grace, and humor of his previous writings. He has properly adopted the plan of making Mr. Wirt speak for himself, whenever this was possible. We have, accord- ingly, a large body of his letters, showing him in every possible attitude, during almost every period of his life, and always in a manner to satisfy us of the equal goodness of his heart and the clear manliness of his intellect. The lawyer, in particular, will be apt to peruse ihese pages with a sensible sympathy. They illustrate the progress of thousands, through a long and painful slrufigle-from poverty, through adversity, and finally, into renown and excellence. They furnish many admirable examples, as »vell as interesting histoiy.— Charleston Mercury. ONS. LEA & BLANCIIARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. EADY. m WIRT. .' >. and fac-simile o fully printed , having been placed lund lo contain much times, as well as to 13 been everywhere ers have pleasure in r price. In so doing, its former cost was ■k is eminently fitted r- table and for every anliness, the intellect Wirt at once so emi- il in the retirement of ) find a place in every e use of schools and eimple of what can be am Wirt, as uncon- !en universal. From it a few. le of the most enter- i admirably qualified 8 to a great variety of of every young man nl popularity.— iV. Y. nd agreeable men of /menu—Richm^d Inq. ic, and will notdisup- talenisof the author, urist, to which he has of the most absorbing He never touches a . ofMr. Wirt that the have performed their le whole getting up is jctive volumes. No id without detriment s the important office e biographical anec- ihe reader to a better ind permanent value curious fac-simile of ercial AdverAser, .. He has not disap- id enjoyed the spirit, adopted the plan of . We have, accord- ttitude, during almost :he equal goodness of in particular, will be strate the progress of rough adversity, and liraule examples, as JOHNSTON'S PHYSICAL ATLAS. THE PHYSICAL ATLAS OF NATURAL PHENOMENA. FOR THE USE OF COLLEGES, ACADEMIES, AND FAMILIES. BY ALEXANDER KEITH JOHNSTON, F. R. G. S., E. G. S. In one large volume, imperial quarto, handsomely bound. With Twenty-six Plates, Engraved and Colored in tlie Lest style. Together with 1 12 pages of Descriptive Letter-press, and a very copious Index. This splendid volume will fill a void long felt in this country, where no work has been attainable presenting the results of the important science of Physical Geography in a distinct and tangible form. The list of plates sub- joined will show both the design of the work and the manner in which its carrying out has been attempted. The reputation of the author, and the universal approbation with which his Atlas has been received, are sufficient guarantees that no care has been spared to render the book complete and trustworthy. The engraving, printing, and coloring will all be found of the best and most accurate description. As but a small edition has been prepared, the publishers request all who may desire to procure copies of the work to send orders through their book- sellers without delay. LIST OF PLATES. GEOLOGY. Geological Structure of the Globe. Mountain Chains of Europe and Asia. Mountain Chains of America. Illustration of the Glacier System of the Alps. (Mont Blanc.) Phenomena of Volcanic Action. Palaeontological and Geological Map of the British Islands. (Frontispiece.) HYDROGRAPHY. 1. Physical Chart of the Atlantic Ocean. 2. Physical Chart of the Indian Ocean. 3 Physical Chart of the Pacific Ocean or Great Sea. Tidal Chart of the British Seas. The River Systems of Europe and Asia. The River Systems of America. Tidal Chart of the World. ]METE0ROI,OGY. 1. Humbolili's System of Isothermal Lines. 2. Geographical Distribution of the Cur- re iit.« of Air. 3. Ilyetograpliic or Rain Map of the World. 4. Hyeloo:rnphic or Rain Map of Europe. NATURAL HISTORY. 1. Geogrnphical Distrihution of Plants. 2. Geographical Di.strihutinn of the Culli vaied Plants u.sed as Food. 3. GeoKraphical Distribuiion of Quadru- niiina, l'"dentata, Marsupialia, and Pacliydermata. 4. Gi'ograpliiciil Distribution ofCarnivorn. 5. Geoijrnpiiical Distribution of Ilodeiiiia and Kuininaiitia. (i. (leourrapluciil Distribut'on of 15irds, 7 Geogiapliical Digtributioii of Reptiles S. Ethiiogriiphie Mapofiht! World. 9. Eilinof?rapliu; Map of Great Britain and Ireland. The intention of this work is to e.xhibit, in a popular and attractive form, the results of the researches of naturalists and philosophers in all the more importairt branches of Natural Science. Its study requires no previous train- ing ; for while facts and deductions aie sii\ted according to the strictest rules of scientific inquiry, they are by an ingenious application of colors, signs, and diagrams, communicated in a manner so simple and striking as to render them at once intelligible and easily retained. For the first time, in this country, the principles of graphic representation are here applied to the delineation of the most important facts of external phenomena. Simple but significant symbolical signs have been introduced LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. JOHNSTON'S PHTSICAI. ATLAS— (Continued.) ^k. to an extent, and with aii effect, liitherto never contemplated. Tlio contents of the many volumes, formerly the sole depositories of information regarding the different kingdoms of nriture, have been condensed and reproduced with a conciseness, precision, complctenesH, and promptitude of application alto- gether unattainable by any other agency. The elegant substitute of linear delineation registers the most complicated results in the most perspicuous form, affords inexiiuustiblc facilities for record- ing the continued advance of science, and " rcnderw its progress visible." The Physical Atlas is the result of many years' labor, and in its construc- tion not only liavc the writings and researches of the philosophers and travel- ers of all nations been made use of, but many of the most eminent men of the age, in the different departments of science, have contributed directly to its pages. The letter-press gives a condensed description of each subject treated of, with constant reference to the elucidation of the maps, and the colors and signs employed are uniformly explained by notes on the plates. But while endeavoring to make available to every one the rich stores of knowledge otherwise nearly inaccessible, it has ever been borne in mind that, in such a work, accuracy and truth are the first requisites, in order that it may be a guide to the naturalist in investigating the more philosophical de- partments of science, and to the inquirer in showing what has already been done, and what remains to be accomplished, in perhaps the most universally interesting and attractive branch of human knowledge. From among a vast number of recommendatory notices, the publishers sub- mit the following : — We have thus rapidly run throi]>Th (lie contents of the Atlas to show its compre- hensiveness and philosophic arriuifreinent. Of its execution, no praise would be in excess. The maps are troiu the original plates, and these are beautifully finished, and the coloring has been laid on wiih the utmost nicety and care. The size is an imperial quarlo, and the uccom|>anying text embraces a vast amount of details that the imagination is called on to fasten and associate with the maps. The enterprise and fine taste of the American publif=hcr8 will, we hope, be rewarded by an extensive sale of this most admirable wor.k. No school -room and no family should be widiout the Physical Atlas. In the hands of a judicious teacher, or head of a family, information of the most varied nature in all departments of science and natural history can be introduced and commented on, in reference to its geographical bearing, while the materials of the text and the Atlas may be commented on to any desired extent. Such works give attractiveness to knowledge, and stimulate to energy the mind of the young; while in the beauty, harmony, and intermediate reactions of nature thus exhd)iled, the facili- ties of imagination and judgment find room for equal exercise and renewed delight. It is the lively picture and representation of our planet. — New York Literary World, March 9, 1850. The book before us is, in short, a graphic encyclop.-cdia of the sciences— an atlas of human knowledge done into maps. It exemplifies the truth which it expresses — that he who runs may read. The Thermal Laws of liCslie it enunciates by a hem line running across a map of Kurope; the abstract re.«earches of Gauss it embodirs in a few parallel curves winding over a section of the globe; a formula of Laplace it melts down to a little path of mezzotint shadow ; aproblemof the transcendental ana- lysis, which covers pages with definite integrals, it makes plain to the eye by a little stippling and hatching on a given degree of longitude ! All possible relations of time and space, heat and cold, wet and dry, frost and snow, volcano and storm, cur- rent and tide, plant and beast, race and religion, attraction and repulsion, glacier and avalanche, fossil and mammoth, river and mountain, mine and forest, air and cloud, and sea and sky— all in the earth, and under the earlh, and on the earth, and above the earth, that the heart of man has conceived or his head understood— are brought to- gether by a marvellous microcosm, and planted on these little sheets of paper— thus making themselves clear to every eye. In short, we have a summary of all the cross- questions of Nature for twenty centuiies— and all the answers of Nature herself set down and speaking to us voluminous system rfa/is m a wiot Mr. Johnsion is well known as a geographer of great accuracy and research ; and it is certain that this work will add to his reputation ; for it is beautilully engraved, and accompanied with explanatory and tabular letterpress of great value —i-ondon Athenceum. [)NS. LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. intinued.) id. Tlic contents rmation regarding 1 reproduced witli f application alto- most complicated icilitics for rocord- gress visible." tl in its constriic- opliers and travel- st eminent men of ributed directly to n of each subject lie maps, and the Les on the plates, the rich stores of lorne in mind that, s, in order that it philosophical de- has already been 3 most universally the publishers sub- show its conipre- 1 praise v^rould be in beautifully finished, ^art-. The size is on lount of details that ips. The enterprise rdedby an extensive ,' should be without )rraation of the most m be introduced and he materials of the . Such works give the young; while in exhd)ited, the facili- id renewed delight. York Literary World, e sciences— an atlas vhich ii expresses — cittles by a bent jine tu^s it einbodirs in a irmula of Laplace it transcendental ana- to the eye by a lillie possible relations of ;aiio and storm, cur- jpulsion, glacier and orest, air and cloud, ihe earth, and above cod— are brought to- leets of paper— thus nary of all the cross- it Nature herself set . . Mr. Johnsion and it is certain that d, and accompanied I Athenaeum. SOMERVILLE'S PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. New Edition, much improved. Now Ready. PHYSICAL "geography. BY MARY SOMERVILLE, AUTHOR or '* THfc CONNECTION OF THE PHYSICAL SCIENCES,"' ETC. ETC. SECOND AMERICAN EDITION. Ji'rotn tht SteouA and RtvtatA Mjondon £dtttOH, WITH AMERICAN NOTES, GLOSSARY, &C. In one neat royal I2mo. volume, extra cloth, of over 500 pages. The great success of this work, and its inlroduetiun into many of the higher schools and academies, have induced the publishers to prepare a new and much improved edition. In addition to the corrcctioiis and improvements of the author bestowed on the work in its passage through the press a second time in London, notes have been introduced to adapt it more fully to the physical geography of this country ; and a comprehensive glossary has been added, rendering the volume more particularly suited to educational purposes. The amount of these additions may be understood from the fact, that not only has the size of the page been increased, but the volume itself enlarged by over one hundred and fifty pages. At the samu time, the price has not been increased. Whde reading this work, we could not help thinking how interesting, as well as useful, geography as a branch of education might be made in our schools. In many of them however, this is not accomplished. It is to be hoped that this de'-^e will be remedied ; and that in all our educational institutions Gt^ography will soon be laught in the proper way. Mrs. Somerville's work may, in this respect, be pointed to as a model. — TaiVs Er/inburgh Magazine. Our praise comes lagging in the rear, and is well-nigh superfluous. But we are anxious to recommend to our youth the enlarged method of studying geography which her present work demonstrates to be as captivating as it is instructive. Nowhere, except in her own previous work, "The Connection oftlie Physical Sciences," is there to be found so large a store of well selected information so lucidly set forth. In sur- veying and grouping together whatever has been seen by the eyes of others, or detect- ed by their laborious investigation.s, she is not surpassed by any one. We have no obscurities other than what the imperfect state of science itself involves her in ; no dissertations which are fell to interrupt or delay. Slie si rings her beads distinct and close together. Svith cjuiet perspicacity she seizes at once whatever is most interest- ing and most captivating in her subject. Therefoie it is we are for the book ; and we hold such presents as Mrs. Somerville has bestowed upon the public, to be of incalcu- lable value, disseminating more sound information than all the literary and scientific institutions will accomplish in a whole cycle of their existence.— l>/acfc?oood'« Mag. HERVEY'S COURT OF GEORGE IL MEMOIRS OF THE REIOlToF OEOROE THE SEGONU, From his Accession to the Death of Queen Caroline. BY JOHN LORD IIERVEY. EDITED, FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT, AT ICKWORTH, By THE Right Hon. JOHN WILSON CROKER, LL. D., F. R. S., &c. In two handsome volumes, royal 12mo., extra cloth. PARDOE'S FRANCIS THE FIRST.— Now Ready. THE COURT AND REIOnTf FRANCIS THE FIRST, KING OF FRANCE. BY MISS PARDOE, author of " LOUIS THE FOURTEENTH," " CITY OF THE SUtTAN," &C. &C. In two very neat volumes, royal 12mo., extra cluth. LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. HE:USCIIE:I<>S outlines of astronomy.— JVV>id iS«ady. OUTLINES O^ASTKONOMY. BY SIJl JOHN F. W. HERSCIIEL, F. R. S., &c. In one neat volume, crown octavo, with six plates aad numerous wood-cuts. With this, we take leave of this remarkable work, which we hold to be, beyond a doubt, the greatest and most remarkable of the works in which the laws of astrono- my and the appearance of the heavens are described to those who a;e not mathema- ticians nor ol)servers, and recalled to those who are. It is the reward of men who can d;scend from the advancement of knowledge to care for its difTusion, that their works are essential to all, that they become the manuals of the profiuient as well as the text-books of the 'earner. — Athenrr.nm. Probably no book ever written upon any science has been found to embrace with- in so small a compass an entire epitome of everything known within all its various departments, practical, theoretical, and physical.— Kra?wm«r A text-book of astronomy, from one of the highest names in ma ^c ience. — Sillitnan^s Journal. ASPECTS OF I^ATIJRE, IN DIFFERENT LANDS AND DIFFERENT CLIMATES. WITH SOIENTIFIO ELUCIDATIONS. BY ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT. TRANSI-ATED BY MRS. SABINE. ' In one very ne.at volume, royal 12mo., extra cloth. It is not without diirulence that I present to the public a series of papers which took theirorigin in the pre.sence of natural scenes of grandeur or beauty, on the ocean, in the forests of the Orinoco, in the Steppes of Venezuela, and in the mountain wilder- nesses of Peru and Mexico. Detaclied frag.neiits were written down on the spot, and at the moment, and afterwards moulded int') a whole. The view of nature on an en- larged scale, the display of the concurrent action of various forces or powers, and the renewal of the enjoyment which the immediate proipect of tropical scenery affords to sensitive minds— are the objects which I have proposed to myself. — Author's Preface. ZOOLOGICAL RECREATIONS-Just Issued. BY W. J. BRODERIP, Esq., F. R. S. In one neat volume of 376 pages, royal 12mo., extra cloth. INTRODUCTION TO FRAGTIGAL GHEMISTRT. INCLUDING ANALYSIS. By JOHN E. BOWMAN, Demonstrator of Chemistry, King's College. In one handsome volume, royal 12mo., of over 300 pages. WITH NEARLY ONE HUNDRED ENORAVINOS ON WOOD. i STEINMETZ'S HISTORY OF THE JESUITS. IIIIi^TORY Or"^IIE .lESlJITS, FROM THE FOUNDATIO.V OF TIIEtR SOl'IISTY TO ITS SUl'l'RlSSSION BY POPK CLEMENT XIV. Tkeir Missions throughout the World ; their "Educational System and Literature ; with their Jievicnl and Present State. BY ANDREW STEIN METZ, Author of "The Novitiate," and "The Jesuit in the Family." In two handsome crown 8vo. vols, of aliout four hundred pages each, extra cloth. /-n IONS. NOMY. ,. S., &c. nerous wood-cuts. hold to be, beyond a he laws of astrono- o a;e not maihema- rewardofmen who diflfusion, that their rofiuient as well as nd to embrace with- I'ithin all its various .c ience.— St'Wtwian'i E, JLIMATES. LDT. :loth. f papers which took ty, on the ocean, in le mountain wilder- own on the spot, and of nature on an en- B or powers, and the ical scenery affords I myself. — Atjthor's list Issued. I. s. xtra cloth. Wu»t Ia»ued, mSTRT. r 300 pages. VOOD. ITS. POPE CLEMENT XtV. n and Literature; 'amily." each, extra cloth. I LEA & BLANCH ARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. y Jjibrary of Jilualrated Scientme W\trkB,— Continued, KNAPP'S CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY. T E C H N~0 L G Y; OR, CHEMISTRY APPLIED TO THE ARTS AND TO MANUFACTURES BY DR. F. K:NAPP, Professor at the University of Giessen. I Edited, with numerous Notes and Additions, by DR. EDMUND RONALDS, and DR. THOMAS RICHARDSON. » ,v, FiKST Amebic AN Edition, with Notes and Additions, BY PROFESSOR WALTER R. JOHNSON. In ttco handsome octavo volumes, printed and illustrated in the highest style of art. Volume One, lately publii^hed, with two hundreil and fourteen large wood engravings. \olume Two, now ready, with two hundred and fifty wood enprravings. One of the best works of modern times. — New York Commercial. We think it will prove the most popular, a« it is decidedly the best of the series. Written by one who has for many years studied both iheoreticully and practically the processes which he describes, the descriptions are precise, and conveyed in a sim- ple unpretending style, so that they are easily understood, while they are sufficiently full in detail to include within them everything necessary to the entire comprehen- sion of the operations. The work is also carefully brought down to include the most recent improvements introduced upon the coiitiiient of Europe, and thus gives us full descriptions of processes to which reference is frequently made in other works, while many of them are, we believe, now for the first time presented in a complete state to the English reader. — Franklin Institute Journal. WEISBACH'S MECHANICS. PRINCIPLES OF "the MECHANICS OF MACHINERY AND ENGINEERING. By Professob JULIUS WEISBACH. TRANSLATED AND EDITED BY PROFESSOR GORDON, OF GLASGOW. 7 First American Edition, with Additions, By Prof. WALTER R. JOHNSON. In two Octavo Volumes, beautifully printed. Volume Ono, with five hundred and fifty illustrations, just issued. Volunie Two, with lliree hundred and thirty illustrations, now ready. This work is one of the most interesting to matliemn'icians that has been laid be- fore tis for some time; and we may c:\My term it a scientific nem.— The Builder. The most valuable contribution to practical science that has yet appeared in this country. — Athencrnni. In every way worthy of being recommended to our readers —Franklin Institute Journal. From Charles H. Ilasxvell, Esq.. Engineer in Chief, U. S. N. The design of the author in supplying the in!»tructor with a guide for teaching, and the student with an auxiliary for the acquirement of the science of mechanics, has, in my opinion, been aitniiied in a most snceesst'ul nianiter. The illustrations, in the fullness of tlifir consiruciion, tnid in lypogrnphical execution, are without a paralU-l. It will uti'ord me much pleasure to recommend its use by the members of the pro- (tession with which I am connected. LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. LIBRARY OF ILLUSTRATED SCIENTIFIC WORKS. UNDER THIS TITLE LEA So BLANCHARD ARE PUBLISHING A SERIES OF BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED WORKS, / ON VARIOUS BRANCHES OF SCIENCE, By the most distinguished men in tlieir respective departments. Printed in the handsomest style, and embellished in the most efficient manner. 117" No expense hag been or will be spared to render Ibis series worthy of the sup- port of the scientific public, and at the same time one of the handsomest specimens of ypograpbical and artistic execution which has appeared in this country. Specimens of the Engravings and style of the volumes may be had on application to the publishers. MULLER'S PHYSIOS-LATELT ISSUED, t' , v , / PRINCIPLES OP PHYSICS AND METEOROLOGY. BY PROFESSOR J. MULLER, M. D. EDITED, WITH ADDITIONS, BY R. EGLESFELD GRIFFITH, M. D. In one large and handsome octavo volume, with 550 wood-cuts, and two colored plates. This is a lurge, elegant, and most admirable volume— thefirst of a series of scien- tific books now passing through the press in London, and which cannot fail to com- mend themselves to the favor of all who take any interest in the progress of science among the great mass of the people. The author is one of the most distinguished scientific men in Germany, and these works have been prepared with the uimos: care, and are put forth in a form admirably udapted to secure ilint wide circulation and universal favor which liiey deserve.— JV. Y. Courier and Inquirer. NOW READY. PRACTICAL~PHAEMACY. COMPRISlNCx THE ARRANGEMENTS. APPARATUS, AND MANIPULA- TIONS OF THE PHARMACEUTICAL SHOP AND LABORATORY. BY FRANCIS MOHR, Ph. D., Assessor PharmaciBE of the Royal Prussian College of Medicine, Coblentz; AND TIIEOPHILUS REDWOOD, Professor of Pharmacy in the Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain. EDITED, WITH EXTENSIVE ADDITIONS, BY PROFESSOR WILLIAM PROCTER, Of the Philadelphia College of Pharmacy. In one handsomely printed octavo volume, of 670 pages, with over 600 en- gravings on wood. In I»rtpetraUoH, workt on Jattnllurgry, J<'ooa, Iht Sttmm JEng-tntf MacMnea, Jtat%onomyf Mural Xeouomyt ATc. ONS. ^IC WORKS. QBLISHING ED WORKS, departments. st efficient manner. B8 worthy of the sup- isomest specimens of 1 country. on application to the D, LEA & BLANCIIARD'S NKW PUBLICATIONS. LOLOGY. d.D. GRIFFITH, M. D. lod-cuts, and two of a series of scien- h cannot fail lo com- e progress of science e most distinguished ired with the uimos: hat wide circulation \quirer. MACY. AND MANIFULA- lAUORATORY. D., riicine, Coblentz; Great Britain. OCTER, 1, with over 600 en- • Sttmm Mngintf i Now Complete.— STRICKLAND'S QUEENS OF ENGLAND. NEW AND IMPROV^iiD EDITION. LIVES OF THE QuVeNS OF ENGLAND, FROM THE NORMAN CONQUEST. WITH ANECDOTES OF THEIR COURTS. Now First Published from Official Records, and other Authentic Documents, Pri- vate as well as Public. NEW EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS. BY AGNES STRICKLAND. In six volumes crown octavo, extra crimson cloth, or half morocco, printed on fine paper and large type. In this edition. Volume One contains Vols. 1, 2 and 3 of the 12mo. edition ; Volume Two contains Vols. 4 and 5 ; Volume Three contains Vols. 6 and 7 ; Volume Four contains Vols. 8 and 9 ; Volume Five contains Vols. 10 and 1 1 ; and Volume Six contains Vol. 12. The whole forming a very handsome se- ries, suitable for presents, prizes, &c. The publishers have great pleasure in presenting to the public this work in a complete form. During the long period in which it has been issuing from the press, it has assumed the character of a standard work ; and, as occupying ground hitherto untouched, as embodying numerous historical facts hitherto unnoticed, and as con- mining vivid sketches ot the character and manners of the times, with anecdotes, documents, &c. &c., it presents numerous claims on the attention of both the student of history and desultory reader. Those who have been wailing its completion can now obtain it, forming a handsome set, twelve volumes in six, in various styles of binding. A few copies still on hand of the Duodecimo Edition. Vol. I.— Contains Matilda of Flanders, Matilda of Scotland, Adelicia of Louvaine, Matilda of Boulogne, and Eleanor of Aquitaine. Vol. II. — Bereng, ia of Navarre, Isa- bella of Angouleme, Eleanor of Provence, Eleanor of Castile, Marguerite of France, Isabella of France, Philippa of Hainault, and Anne of Bohemia. Vol. III. — Isabella of Valois, Joanna of Navarre, Katharine of Valois, Marga- ret of Anjou, Elizabeth Woodvillc,and Ann of Warwick. Vol. IV. — Elizabeth of York, Katharine of Arragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, and Katharine Howard. Vol.V. — Katharine Parr and Queen Mary. Vol. VI. — Queen Elizabeth. Vol. VII. — Queen Elizabeth (continued), and Anne of Denmark. Vol. VIII. — Henrietta Maria and Catharine of Braganza. Vol. IX. — Mary of Modena. Vol. X. — Mary of Modena (continued), and Mary II. Vol. XI. — Mary II. (continued), and Queen Anno. Vol. XII. — -Queen Anno (concluded). Any volume sold separately, or the whole to match in neat green cloth. These volumes have the fascination of a lomanceunited to the integrity of history.— Times. A most valuable and entertaining work.— Chronicle. This interesting and well-written work, in which the severe truth of history takes almost the wiidness of romatu-e. will constitute a valuable addition to our biogra- phical literature.— Mor/iing Herald. A valuable contribution to historical knowledge, to young persons especially. It contains-a muss of every kind of historical matter of interest, whicli industry and re source could collect. We have derived much eulerlainment and instruction from the work. — Aihenaum. The execution of this work is equal to the conception. Great pains have been taken to make it both inleres'ting and vn\iitih]a.— Literary Gazelle. A charming work— full of interest, at once serious and pleasing.— ]\ronsietir Giiizol, A most charming biographical memoir. We conclude by expressing our unquiili- fled opinion, that we know of no more valuable contribution to modern hisiory than this ninth volume of Miss Strickland's Lives of the ilaeena.— Morning Iltrald, m LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. THE "WAR IN HUNGARY. Now Ready. MEMOIRS OF ANIuNGARIAN LADY. BY THERESA PULSZKY. WITH AN HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION BY FRANCIS PULSZKY. In one neat volume, royal 12ino., extra cloth. We need hardly inform our readers that the authoress of this work is the accom- plished wife of the gentleman who was originally accredited to the English Cabinet by the Provisional Government of Hungary. The private interest attaching to the recital of events which have become so famous, would ensure a wide popularity for Madame Pulszky's book. But weshouid very mnch underestimate its value if\f3 so limited our praise. The Memoirs, indeed, contain sketches of social life which are worthy of a place by the side of Madame de Stahl de Launay and Madame Campan. But they are also rich in political and topographical information of the first character. Madame Pulszky was in the habit of direct intercourse with the foremost and most distinguished of the Hungarian generals and statesmen, and hns given a complete 8un?mary of the political events in Hungary, from the arrival of the Hungarian Depu- tation in 1848, to the treason of General Georgy on the ISi't sf August, 1849. iVT. Puls- zky has also prefixed a valuable introduction, which gives the most complete History of Hungary that has ever issued from the English press.— Gr/o6e. TAIiES AlVD STORIES IFROi^I HISTORY. BY AGNES STRICKLANl , A!Uli>>rof"Livesof the Queens ofEj'giH id." etc. In one handsom- royal Ibmo. volumt , crimson exiss rh,\n, with illustrations. THE SrOAR PLiAMTER'S ir^AHVAIi. BEINO A TREATISE ON THE ABT or OBTAirfl^'i- SfCAR FROM THE CANE. BY W. J. EVANS, A> D. In one neat volume, small 8vo., '2(1:: pages, vhh < M>d-cuts and iwo plates. THEORY )i»-^ i;%Wf^. BY S. T. COLERIDGF. In onesi/iill volume, 12mo. POEMS, BY ELTIfi, '"URRER, AND ACTON BELL, / 'Uhors of " Jane Eyre,'' Ac. In one vol., royal Ibiho. s u' i EASTERN lilFE, PRESENT AUTO PAST. BY HARRIET MARTINEAT^. In one large and handsome volume, crown octavo. H01JS£H0IiD EDlJ€ATIO]¥. BY HARRIET MARTINEAU. lN I t In one handsome vol., royal IStno. MIRABEAIJ, A litre History. In one neat volume, royal 12mo. A TllBATX8B^9rA^B.OZrO]!IIIir, BY SIR JOHN F. W. HERSCHEL, F. R. S., &c. WITH NUMKB0U8 PLATES AMD WOOD-CUTB. A ^E^V EDITION, WITH A PBEFACE AND A SERIES OF QUESTIONS, BY S. 0. WALKER. In one volume, ]2ino. IONS. LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. Eleady. I LADY. ► DUCTION h. \ work is the accom- Ihe English Cabinet srest attaching to the a wide popularity for nate its value if n/o so social life which are md Madame Campan. 1 of the first character, he foremost and most h'\8 given a complete "the Hungarian Pepu- .ugust, 1849. M. Puls- mosl complete History [STORY. etc. with illustrations. LIVVAL.. FROM THE CANE. I and iwo plates. le, 12mo. N BELL, WO PAST. octavo. TIOIV. ffomiY, ., he, OF QUESTIONS, SHAW'S ENGLISH LITERATURE. OUTLINES OP ENGLISH LITERATURE. BY THOMAS B. SHAW, Professor of English Literature in the Imperial Alexander Lyceum of St. Petersburg. In one large and handsome royal 12mo. volume. A valuable and very interesting volume, wiiich for various merits will gradually find its way into all libraries.— iV. Y. Knickerbocker. Supplies a want long and severely felt. — Southern Literary Gazette. Truces our literary history with remarkable zest, fairness, and intelligence.— iV^. Y. Home Journal. An admirable work — graphic and delightful. — Pennsylvanian. The best publication of its size upon English literature that we have ever met with. — Neal's Saturday Gazette. Eminently readable.— Cti¥D HVAWL AT BRITAIN. 1812, AND CON- It-lS. iper covers. Louis Pliilippc, LY. per, at fifty cents 1789. ( I Schmttt and XutMpl^» ^'!mimtr4tt »eft*ii.- i-'oHliHued, From Prof. Roche, Transylvania Unirtrsiiy, L^.tington, Ktj., March 31, 1849. Whatever influence my position may give me shall be most cheerfully employed in bringing into general use ill the West these very valuable work?. I trust that you will prosecute to a close the proposed series, ami that the execution of those that re- main to complete a Latin Curriculum may be as neat and in all respects as unex- ceptionable as that of those already published. Froin Prof. John Wilson, Fre^. Dep. Dickinson College, Carlisle, I)cc. S, IS43. I have examined the three volumes with considerable care, and can give tliein my unqualified approbation. The plan is judicious, and the execution vvonliy of all prai.«e. The notes comprise all tliat a student needs, aiul all that he should have; and their position at the foot of the page is just what it should be. From PuoF. E. E. Wiley, Emory and Heitry College, Va. Nov. .30, 1849. From the cursory examination given them, 1 must say that I have been highly grati- fied. Such a series as you propose giving to the public is certainly a great dt-sidera- Vum. Our classical ie.\t-books have heretofore been rendered entirely too expensive, by the cosily dresses in which they have appeared, and by the extensive di.splay of notes appended ; many of wh'ch, though learned, are of little wortli to the student in elucidating the text, ft vvill afford me pleasure to introduce into my department sucii booksof your series as may be in our course. From S. FL Tatlor, Esq., Andover, Mass., Oct. 30, 1848. ' The notes seen to me very accur.ate, and are not so numerous as to do for the stu- dent what he ought to do for himsi;lf I can with safety, therelore, recommend it to my pupils. From Prof. M. M. Campuell, Principal of the Grammar School, Indiana University^ Nov. (i, lfc43. I like the plan of your series I feel sure it wii succeed, and thus displace some of the leariiud lumber of our schools. The notes, short, plain, and apposite, are placed where they ought to be, and furnish the learner just about help enough. From Philip liiNDSLEY, D. D., Pres. of the University of Nashville, Nov. 27, 1S48. The classical series, edited by Drs. Sclimitz and Zumpt, has already acquired a high and well-merited reputation on both sides of the Atlantic. I have carefully ex- amined your editions of Ctcsar and Virgil. I think them admiral)le text-books for schools, and preferable to all others. I shall avail myself of every suitable occasion to recommend them. From I?. Sanford, Esq., Bridgetvatrr. Mass.. Jan. 17, 1840. I liave examined, with considerable care, boih the Cnnsar and the Virsril. and am nineli pleased with the plan and execuiion of the s(!ries ihus I'ur. 1 am f.ii'-ticuliirly griitified with the propriety and judgment disr)layed by the editors in the r^'paration of the notes; avoiding, as I think, the prolixity and prol'iiseiiess of some os our chis.s- ieal works, and, at tlie same lime, the barrenness and deficiency of others ; giving a body of annotations beticr suited to aid the teat-her in imparting a knowledge of the language, than is to be found in any edition heretofore in use. From Pr(1i\ SxuRaESs, TIannver CoVege, Indiaiia. Dec. 'id, 1S4S. The mere name of the editor.* is a sunicieni and most ample guarantee of the neeu- riicy of the text, the judicious clioioi.' oi' various readings, and the conformity of those iidoplcil to tin; latest invesllgation< of .MSy., and the results of ilie inosl enligliiened erilicisin. The notes 1 have not cxainineil very earet'ully, except those of the Virgil. They are adinirublc. exiiciiK-ly condensed, and conveying a great deal of most valu- able, critieiFin ill the hrit'feist possible way. They are particularly valuable for their CATALOGUE OF LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. THE AMERICAN ENCYCLOPAEDIA. BROUGHT UP TO 1847. THE ENCYCLOPEDIA AMEKICANA: A POPULAR DICTIONARY OF ARTS, SCIENCES, LITERATURE, HISTORY, POLITICS AND BIOGRAPHY. IN FOURTEEN LARGE OCTAVO VOLUMES OF OVER SIX HUNDRED DOUBLE COLUMNED PAGES EACH. For sale very low, in various styles of binding. During the long period which this work has been before the public, it has attained a very high character as an ENCYCLOPEDIA FOR DAILY REFERENCE, Containing, in a comparatively moderate space, a vast quantity of informa- tion which is scarcely to be met with elsewhere, and of the exact kind which is wanted in the daily exigencies of conversation and reading. It has also a recommendation shared by no other work of the kind now before the public, in being an American book. The numerous American Biogra- phies, Accounts ofAmerican Inventions and Discoveries, References to our Political Inatitutions, and the general adaptation of the whole to our own peculiar habits and modes of thought, peculiarly suit it to readers in this country. I'rom these causes, it is also especially fitted for all DISTRICT SCHOOL AND OTHER PUBLIC LIBRARIES, in some of which it has been tried with great satisfaction. It fulfils, to a greater extent than perhaps any similar work, the requirements for these institutions, presenting, in a small compass and price, the materials of a library, and furnishing a book for every-day use and reference, indispensable to those removed from the large public collections. 'iSomo years having elapsed since the original thirteen volumes of the ENCYCLOPEDIA AMERICANA were published, to bring it up to the present day, with the h'story of that period, at the request of numerous subscribers, the publishers have just issued a SUPPLEMENTARY VOLUME (THE FOURTEENTH), BRINGING THE WORK UP TO THE YEAR 1847 EDITED BY HENRY VETHAKE, LL.D. Vice-Provost and Professor of Matliematies in llie I'mvcrsity ii| IV^nnsylvania, Author of "A TrtvitiHe on Politirnl Kconomv." In "Mr Inrgo '^ctavo voluiuc of ovim t'^O rlnnl lo t o'l'mncH pagra. ARD'S yPMDIA. eioana: )Y, POLITICS iUNDRED POUBLK ng. - )efore the public, it lENCE, uantity of informa- of the exact kind )n and reading. It he kind now before American Biogra- , References to our ! whole to our own ; to readers in this "or all JBRARIES, ion. It fulfils, to iirementa for these the materials of a ence, indispensable n volumes of the to bring it up to ;quest of numerous RTEENTH), YEAR 1847 i>. vylvania, Author of LEA & BLANCHARD'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. MAGNIFICENT PRESENTATION WORK. IRISH MELODIES. BY THOMAS MOORE, Esq. WITH NOTES AND BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACES. IliliUSTRATED WITH BEAUTIFUL STEEL. PLATES, ENGRAVED UNDER THE IMMEDIATE SUPERINTENDENCE OF MR. EDWARD FINDKN. In one large imperial quarto volume of 174 pagea, handsomely bound in extra cloth, with gilt edges. Beautifully printed on superior paper. Nora Creina, Rich and Rare were the Gems she Wore, '■ Evkt-i!;kn, .... liOVE's Young Dream, Lesbia, .... Kathleen and St. Kevin, The Hamlet's Pride, - Laughing I'aes. ... The Mountain Sprite, The Desmond's liOVE, LIST OF PLATES. I'aiiueil by W. P. Frith, Engr'd by E. Finden. (1 W. Fisher, R. T. UoU, A. Derl)y, W. P. Frilh, E. Ilawkes, W. Room, W. P. Frith, F. Wood, F. Crowley, (I II (( (( u (( II 11 W. H. Mote. E. Finden. E. Finden. W. Iloll. W. Holl. W. Edwards, E. Finden. E. Finden. W. Edwards. The care wliich has been exercised in every portion of this volume, l)oth as to its mechanicul and artistical execution, renders it in all respects well worthy of the "Irish Melodies." In illustrations, type, printing, paper, and binding, it is equal to anything that has as yet appeared in this country ; and, as a work whose attraction is not confined to u single sea.sun, it should command the attention of tlie public. Now Ready.— MACKAY'S TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES. THE TrE8T£R]¥ IVORIiD; OR, TRAVELS IN THE UNITED STATES. EXHIBITING THEM IN THEIR L.ATEST DEVELOPMENT, SOCIAL, POLITICAL, AND INDUSTRIAL. INCLUDING A CHAPTER ON CALIFORNIA. BY ALEXANDER MACKAY, Esq. FROM THE SECOND AND ENLARGED LONDON EDITION. In two very neat vols,, royal 12mo. READINGS FOR THE YOUNG. FROM THE WORKS OF SIR WALTER SCOTT. WITH NUMEROUS AND BEAUTIFUL PLATES. In two very handsome vols., royal 18mo., crimson cloth DOMBEY AND SON, COMPLETE. BY CHARLES DICKENS. In one large octavo vol. of 320 double-columned pages, with 16 plates, price 50 cents. ALSO, AN EDITION ON FINE PAPER, WITH 40 PLATES, EXTRA CLOTH. DICKENS'S DAVID COPPERFIELD. PUBLISHING IN NUMBERS. WITH PLATES, PRICE 5 CENTS EACH. Uniform with Lea & Blaiichard's complete edition of Dickens's Novels and Tales. ALSO, Part I of the Cheap Edition, TO BE COMPLETE IN TWO FARTS. Price 2.5 Cents each. 1 LK.V & BLANCirARD'S NKW PUBLICATIONS. SCHMITZ & ZUMPT'S CLASmL SERrES. VOLUME I. €. JlJIill €A£8ARII^ COMMENTAIIII DE BELLO GALLICO. WITH AN IIJTRODUCTION, NOTES, AND A GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX IN ENGLISH. ALSO, A MAP OF GAUL, AND H.LUSTRATIVK ENCKAVINGS. In one liandsome l;ino. volume, of i'W pages, extra clolli, price 50 cts. VOLUME II. PUBLII VIRGILII MARONIS CARMINA. WITH AN INTRODUCTION AND NOTES. In one liandsome ISino. volume, of 43S pages, extra cloth, price 73 els. VOLUME III. C. CRISPl SALLUSTII CATALTNA ET JUGURTHA. WITH INTRODUCTION, AND NOTES IN ENGLISH. ALSO, A MAP OF NUMIDIA AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIVE ENGRAVINGS. In one handsome ISmo. volume, of 16S pages, extra cloth, price 50 cts. ■ VOLUME IV.— Vow Ready. L.ATIIV ORAlfllVIAR. BY LEONIIARD SCHMITZ, Ph. D., F. R. S. E., HECTOR OF THE HIGH SCHOOL, EDINBURGH. In one handsome ISmo. volume, of 318 pages, neatly half-bound, price 60 cts. VOLUME V^— Now Ready. Q. CURTII RUFI DE GESTIS ALEXANDRI MAGNI. LIBRI QUI SUPERSUNT VIII. WITH A MAP, INTRODUCTION, ENGLISH NOTES, &C. In one handsome ISmo, volume, of 326 pages, price 70 cents. VOLUME V^I.— Now Ready. M. TULLII CICEROiVrS ORATIONES SELECTiE XIL WITH INTRODUCTION, ENGLISH NOTES, &C. &C. In one handsome ISmo. volume. VOLUME VII.— Nearly Ready. LVTRODUCTIOX TO THE LATIN GRAMMAR. BY LEONHARD SCHMITZ, Ph. D., F. R. S. E., &c. ■) , 111 one handsome ISmo. volume. , The neatness, cheapness, and accuracy of this series, togetlier with its skiiifwl adaptation to the wants both of teachers and students, have secured for it the almost universal approbation of those to whom it has been submitted. From among the very numerous testimonials which the publishers have re- ceived, they beg to submit the following; — I I LEA AND BLANCIIAKD'S PUBLICATIONS. INS. SERIES. LICO. )EX IN ENGLISH. ;havings. rice 50 eta. RMINA. rice 73 cla. fUGURTHA. NGRAVINOS. rice 50 cts. I. S. E,, . prine 60 cts, > II MAGNI. :eiltS. :cT^ xir. ENCYCLOPAEDIA AMERICANA. JVfMAR. &c. TRtlier with its have secured )een submitted, sliers have re- Thc numerous subscribers who have been waiting the completion of this volume can now perfect their sets, and all who want A REGISTER OF THE EVENTS OF THE LAST FIFTEEN YEARS, FOR THE WHOLE WORLD, can obtain this volume separately: price Two Dollars uncut in cloth, or Two Dollars and Fifty Cents in leather, to match the styles in which the publishers have been scUing sets. Subscribers in the large cities can be supplied on application at any of the principal bookstores ; and persons residing in the country can have their sets matched by sending a volume in charge of friends visiting the city. Complete sets furnished at very low prices in various bindings. " The publishers of the Encyclnpijedia Americana conferred an obligation on the public when, fourteen years ago, they issued the thirteen volumes from their press. They contained a wonder- ful amount of information, upon almost every subject which would be likely to occupy publio attention, or be the theme of coiiversatiun in the private circle. Whatever one would wish to inquire about, it seemed oiiv necessary to dip into the Encyclopaedia Americana, and there the outline, at least, wuuid ho fouuu, and reference made to those works wliich treat at large upon the subject. It was not strange, therefore, that the work was popular. But in fourteen years, great events occur. The last fourteen years have been full of them, and great discoveries have been made in sciences and the arts ; and great men have, by death, commended their names and deeds to tlie fideUty of the biographer, so that the Encyclopsedia that approached perfection in 1832, might fall considerably behind in 1846. To bring up the work, and keep it at the present point, has been a task assumed by Professor Vethake, of the Pennsylvania University, a gentleman entirely competent to sucli an undertaking ; and with a disposition to do a good work, he has supplied a supplementary volume to the main work, corresponding in size and arrangements therewith, and becoming, indeed, a fourteenth volume. The author has been exceedingly industrious, and very fortunate in discovering and selecting materials, using all that Germany has presented, and resort- ing to every species of information of event;, connected with the plan of the work, since the pub- lication of the thirteen volumes. He has continued articles that were commenced in that work, and added new articles upon science, biography, history, and geography, so as to make the present volume a necessary appendage in completing facts to the other. The nublishers deserve the thanks of the readers of the volume, for the handsome type, and clear white paper they have used HI the publication."— l/JM/cd States Gazette. " This volume is worth owning by itself, as a most convenient and reliable compend of recent His- tory, Biography, Statistics, &c., graphy, the general progress of society, &c., Ac " -Albany Argut, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // // ^^ >.^4fe. fe 1.0 I^I^B |25 ■^ 1^ IIIII2.2 Sua ™— - iiS |||2£ I.I iyi& 1.25 ||U 1^6 <^ c?>. ^.^ fi. WJ>> ^>. Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTU.N.Y. MS80 (716) t7a-4S03 < e % LEA AND BLAN CHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. CAMPBELL'S LORD CHANCELLOES. &.i>J it» ittiiii)k{uu}^} JUST PUBLISHED. LIVES OF THE LORD CHANCELLORS AND KEEPERS OF THE '^ GREAT SEAL OF ENGLAND, FROM THE EARUEST TIMES TO THE REION OF KINO OEOROE IV., r '*; BY JOHN LORD CAMPBELL, A.M., F.R.S.E. First Series, forming three neat voluir.js in demy octavo, extra cloth. Bringing the work to the time of Lord Jeffries. IHE SECOND SERIES WILL SHORTLY FOLLOW IN FOUR VOLUMES TO MATCH. " It is •ufficient for as to thank Lord Campbell tat the honest inductry with which he has thus fu proMcuted his large task, the general candor and Uberalitjr with which he has analyzed the lives and characters of a long succession of influential magistrates and ministers, and the manly style of his narrative. We need hardly say that we shall expect with great interest the continuation of this performance. But the present i«iies of itself is more than rafficient to give Lord Campbell B hiii^ station among the English authors of his age."— Quarfer^r SeuioB. " The volumes teem with exciting incidents, aboi Jid in portraits, sketches and anecdotes, and ait at once interesting and instructive. The work is not only liistorical and biographical, but it ia anecdotal and philosophicaL Many of the chapters embody thrilling incidents, while as a whole, the publication may be regarded as of a high intellectual order."— figtinvr. "A work in three handsome octavo volumes, which we shall regard as both an ornament and an honor to our library. A History of the Lord Chancellors of England from the institution of the office, ia necessarily a History of the Constitution, the Court, and tbi Jurisprudence of the King- dom, and these volumes teem with a world of collateral matter of he liveUest character for the general reader, as well as with much of the deepest interest for the professional or philosophictil vaind."— Saturday Courier. "Tiu* Iays throughout the most pains-taking research, and a style of narratire which has all the lucidity and strenf^th of Gibbon. It is a work with which, shwlding such a light as we are justified in saying it will do upon English history, every library ought to be provided."— Stduloy Tma. MEMOIRS OF THE LOVES OF THE POETS. Biographical Sketches of Women celebrated in Ancient and Modern Poetry. BY MRS. JAMIESON. In one royal duodecimo volume, price 75 cents. FREDERICK THE GREAT, TlSColj?rAND TIMES. EDITED, WITH AN INTRODUCTION, BY THOMAS CAMP- BELL, ESQ., AUTHOR OF THE "PLEASURES OF HOPE." Second Series, in two duodecimo volumes, extra cloth. ' HISTORY OF CONGRESS. EXHIBITING A CLASSIFICATION OP THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE SENATE AND THl HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES, FROM 1789 TO 1793, EMBRACING THE FIRST TERM OF THE ADMINISTRATION OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. I In one large octavo volume of over 700 pages, price only #1.50. IIK O O R E* SZRBLAND^NO^^^ »rMrrr,«=^ THE HISTORY OF IRELAND, j ?ROM THE EARLIEST KINGS OP THAT REALM DOWN TO ITS LATEST CHIEFS. In two octavo volumes, extra cloth. Mr. Moore has at length completed his History of Ireland containing the most troubled and inter- esting pRriods through which it has passed. I'hose who have possessed themselves of the worii as for as the Great Expedition against Scotland in IMS, can procure the second volume separate. HISTORY OF TiirwSi¥FR^^ BELGIUM IN 1815, CONTAINING MINUTE DETAILS OP THE BATTLES OF QUATRE-BRAS, LTGNY. WAVRK AND WATERLOO. BY OAPTAIN W. SIBORNE. In one octavo volume, with Maps and Plans of Battles, &c., viz.: 1. Part of Belgium, indicating the distribution of the armies on commencing hostilit.es. 2. Field of Quatre-Bras, nt 3 o'clock, P. M. 3. Field of Quatre-Brns, at 7 o'clock, P. M, 4. Field of Ligny, at a quarter past 2 o'clock, P. M. 6. Field of Ugny, at half past 8 o'clock, P. M. 6. Field of Water- loo, at a quarter past 1 1 o'clock, A. M. 7. V'iefd of Waterloo, at a quarter before 8 o'clock, P. M. 8 Field of Waterloo, at 5 minutes past 8 o'clock, P. M. 9. Field of Wavre, at 4 o'clock, P. M., 18th June. 10. Field of Wavre, at 4 o'clock, A. M., 19th June. IL Part of France, on which is shown the aidvance of the Allied Armies into the Kingdom. TEXT BOOS OF BOOIiBSXiLSTXOikZ. XZZSTOR'Sr. BY J. C. I GlESELER, PROFESSOR OF THEOLOGY IN GOTTINGEN. TRANSLATED FROM THE THIRD GERMAN EDITION, BY P. CUNNINGHAJL In three octavo volumes, containing over 1200 large pages. BIiBXaBXTTS or nxrXVBBSAXi HZSTORT, ON A NEW AND SYSTEMATIC PLAN, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE TREATY OF VIENNA, TO WHICH IS ADDED A SUMMARY OF THE LEADING EVENTS SINCE THAT PERIOD. BY H. WHITE, B.A. SIXTH AMERIOAM KD I T I IT, W I TH ADDITIOfiS f< ,v...tr'< BY JOHN S. HART, A. M. • *« i.f* In one large royal 12mo. volume, neat extra cloth. LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS. GRAHAMF/S COLONIAL HISTORY. HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES. FROM THE PLANTATION OF THE BRITISH COLONIES TILL THEIR ASSUMPTION OF INDEPENDENCE. SECOND AMERIOAN EDITION, ENLARGED AND AMENDED, WITH A MEMOIR BY PRESIDENT QUINCY. IN TWO LAROE OCTAVO VOLUMES, EXTRA CLOTH, WITH A PORTRAIT. This work having assumed the position of a standard history of this country, the publishers have been induced to issue an edition in smaller size and at a less cost, that its circulation may be commensurate with its merits. It is now considered as the most impartial and trustworthy history that has yet appeared. A few copies of the edition in four volumes, on extra £ne thick paper, Erice eig^t aollars, may still be had by f entlemen desirous of procuring a eautiim work for their libraries. " It if uniTenaUy known to litenuy men as, in its oriKinal fonn, one of the earliest histories of this country, and certainly one of the best ever written by a foreigner. It has been constantly and copionsly used by every one who has, since its appearance, undertalcen the history of this countnr. la the course of the memoir prefixed to it, it u vindicated from the aspersions cast on it by hit. Bancroft, who, nevertheless, has derived from it a vast amount of the information and documentary material of his own ambitious, able and extended work. It is issued in two volumes, and cannot fiail to find its way to eveiy library of any pretensions.— iVew York Coutier and Enqtdrer. COOPER'S NAVAL HISTORY. HISTORY OF TH£ NAVY OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, BY J. FENIMORE COOPER. THIRD EDITIOir, WITH CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS. Complete, two volumes in one, neat extra cloth. With a Portrait of the Author, Two Maps, and Portraits of Paul Jones, Baimbridoi, Dau, Prkblb, Dicatcr, Portbk, Pbrrt, ahd McDoNoaaH. A WRAXALL'S HISTORICAL MEMOIRS. HISTORICAL MEMOIRS OF MY OWN TIMES, BY SIR N. W. WRAXALL. ONB NEAT VOLUME, EXTRA CLOTH. This is the work for which, in consequence of too truthful a portraiture of Catherine II., the author was itnprisoned and fined. Taught by this experience, hu succeeding memoirs he sup- pressed until after his death. WRAXALL'S POSTHUMOUS MEMOIRS. POSTHUMOUS MEMOIRS OF HIS OWN TIMES, BY SIR N. W. WRAXALL. IN ONE VOLUME, EXTRA CLOTH. This work contains muoli secret and amusing anecdote of the pruniinent persona{(os of the day, which rendered its posthumous publication necessary ■ 5 ••1. I 'II ii> I ' 'IONS. STORY. ATES. 3H COLONIES INDENCE. 3D, r QUINCY. :loth, ard history of this ition in smaller size -ate with its merits, hy history that has -a fine thick paper, rous of procuring a if the earliest histories of t has been constantly and e history of this county, persions cast on it by Air. rmatioi! and documentary two volumes, and camiot r mid Enqidrer. ORY. S OF AMERICA, R. )ITIONS. L Jones, Bainbridok, tONOUOH. EMOIRS. N TIMES, TH. ure of Catherine II., the leding memoirs he sup- ^ V EMOIRS. N TIMES, personagos of the day, LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. WALPOLE'S LETTJJIS AND MEMOIRS. THE LETTERS OF HORACE WALPOLE, EARL OF ORFORD, CONTAININO NEARLY THREE HUNDRED LETTERS. NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINALS, AND FORMING AN UNINTER- RUPTED SERIES FROM 1735 TO 1797. In four large octavo vrolumes, with a portrait of the Author. TFpTJRJs siTT rTTiRsr THE LETTERS OF HORACE WALPOLE, EARL OF ORFORD, TO SIR HORACE MANN, FROM 1760 TO 1785. NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS. In two octavo volumes, to match the above. WAi^iTTGrn^^ MEMOIRS OF THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD, BY HORACE WALPOLE. NOW FIRST PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS. EDITED, WITH NOTES, BY SIR DENIS LE MARCHANT. These Memoirs comprise the first twelve years of the reign of George lit. : and recommend themselves especially to the reader in this country, as contniniii{; an account of the early troubles with America. They form a sequel to the " Memoirs of George the Second," by the same author. BR?vlMmii^^ HISTORY OF THE HUGUENOTS— A NEW EDITION, CONTINUED TO THE PRESENT TIME. BY W. S. BROWNING. In one large octavo volume, extra cloth. " One of the most interesting and valuable contributions to modem history."— Gentleman's Magth tine. '• Not the least interesting portion of the work has reference to the violence and peiMcutiom of 1816."— TTtme*. WeIsolusj^ HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE SECOND WAR BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AND GREAT BRITAIN, DECLARED BY ACT OF CONGRESS, JUNE 18, 1812, AND CONCLUDED BY PEACE, FEBRUARY 15, 1815. 87 OHARIiBS J. IlTOERSOZiIi. One volume octavo of 516 pages, embracing the events of 1812—1813. Beautifully printed, and done up in neat extra cloth. RuiH'ilTOj^^ MEMORANDA OF A RESIDENCE AT THE COURT OF LONDON. COMPRISING INCIDENTS OFFICIAL AND PEUSONAI,. FROM 1819 TO 1825; IMOLUDINQ NEGOTIATIONS ON THK OREOON aUKSTION, AND OTHER UNSETTLED RELATION! BKTWKEN TUK UNITED STATES AND GREAT BRITAIN. BIT &ZOHARB RT7SH, fijivoy Extruordinary and Minister PlHuipotentiaiy fioiu tho United Stiilcs, t'niin 1817 lo 1826 In one largo and beautiful oi'tavo voliimu, oxtra clolh. LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. N I EBU H R'S ROM E. V il TUB IIXSTOB7 OF BOZCB, BYB. G. NIEBUHR. COMPLETE IN TWO LARGE OCTAVO VOLUMES. Done up in extra cloth ; or five parta, paper, price $1.00 each. The last three parts of this valuable book have never before been pubhslied in this country, haT- inp only lately been printed in Germany, and translated In England. The two last of these com- prise Professor Niebuhr's Lectures on the latter part of Roman History, so long lost to the world. " It is an unexpected surprise and jileasure to the admirers of Niebuhr— that is, to all earnest stu- dents of ancient history— to recover, as from the grave, the lectures before \ia."— Eclectic Review. "The world has now in Niebuhr an imperishable model."— Edinburgh Revieie, Jan. 1844. " Here we close our remarks upon this memorable work, a work which, of all that have appeared m our aee, is the best fitted to excite men of learning: to intellcctuiil activity : from which llie most accomplished scholar may patlier fresh stores of knowledge, to which the most experienced politi- cian may resort for theoretical and practical instruction, and which no person can read as it ought to be read, witlioat feelini; the belter and more generous sentiments of iiis common human nature enlivened and strengthened."— £(/tfj6Mry/i Review. " It is since I saw you that I have been devouring with the most intense admiration the third volume of Niebuhr. The clearness and comprehensiveness of all his military details is a new feature in that wonderful mind, and how inimitably beautiful is that brief account of TeruL"— Z)p Arnold (Life, vol. ii.) ..^.^.^^^^—..y.^,^^^,..^ PROFESSOR RANK E'S HI STORICAL WORKS. HISTORir OF THB FOPBS, THEIR CHURCH AND STATE, IN THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES. BY XiEOPOIiD RANKE. TRAN8!,ATED FROM THE Lrtunily of supplying themselves from the present very excellent edition."— Saturday Evening Post. " A new edition of tlii4 exquisite stoiv has recently been issued by Messrs. Lea ii Blanchard, embellished and illustrated in the moat elegant manner. We understand that the work was com- pletely out of print, and a new edition will then be welcomed. It contains a delightfU letter from the author, giving a painful insight into the personal history of the characters who figure in the story."— £toc»un0 Bulletin. " The most chsrmiuf work we have read for many a isf."— Richmond Enquirer. LOVER'S ROrT ^TMORE. ROB'S' O'MOBB-A HtJLTlOHtAlM BOMAXTOB, BY SAMUEL LOVER. A new and cheap edition, with Illustrations by the Author. Price only 2S cents. Also, a beautiful edition in royal I2mo., price 50 cents, to match the following. "A truly Irish, national, and characteristic t/tory."— London Litercuy Otuette. " Mr. Lover has here produced his best work of fiction, which will survive when half the Irish sketches with wliich the Uterary world teems an forgotten. The interest we take in the varied adventures of Rory is never once suffered to abate. We welcome him with high delight, and part front him with regret."— London Sun. LOYErS IRISH STORIES. IiBOBlTDS AXVD 8TOBZB8 OF XBBZi.A.M'D, BY SAMUEL LOVER. In one very neat 12mo. volume, fine paper, extra cloth or fancy paper, With Illustrations oy the Author. LOVER'S SONGS AND INCLUDING THOSE OF THE BALLADS, "IRISH EVENINGS." In one neat 12mo. volume, price 25 cents. SlARSTOlf, OR THE MEMOIRS OF A STATESMAN AND SOLDIER BY THE REV. GEORGE CROLY, Authorof'Salathibl," "Angel of the World," Ac i In one octavo volume, paper, price fifty cents. « *A wcrk of high character and absorbing interest."— New Orlemu Bet. LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. DON QUIXOTE-ILLUSTRATED EDITION. NEARLY READY. .AJ DON aUIXOTE DE LA MANCHA, TBARBLilTED FKOM TH!t BPAHIBH OF MIGUEL DE CERVANTES SAAVEDRA B7 OBARI.es JARVXS, ESQ. CAREFULLY REVISED AND CORRECTED, WITH A MEMOIR OP THE AUTHOR AND NOTICE OF HIS WORKS. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, BY TONY JOHANNOT. In two beautiAiUy printed volumes, crown octavo, rich extra crimson clotlb The publishers are happy in presenting; to the admirers of Don Qaixnte an edition of that work in some degree worthy of its reputation and popularity. The want of such a one has long lieen felt in tliis country, and in presenting this, they hare only to express their hope that it may meet the numerous demands and inquiries. The translation is that by Jarvis, which is acknowledged supe- rior in both force and fidelity to all others, it has in some few instances been slightly altered to adapt it better to modem readers, or occasionally to suit it to the inimitable designs of Tony Johannot. These latter are admitted to be the only successful pictorinl exponents of the wit and humor oi Cervantes, and a choice selection of them have been engraved in the best manner. A copious memoir of the author and his works has been added by the editor. The volumes are printed in argo clear type, on fme paper, and hauilsomely bound, and the whole is confidently oO^rsd as •fonnv tn«' Hppri'ljatioii 01 all reddeis of llus imrerishabic romance. , , IONS. DITION. lA, 11 EDRA THE AUTHOR AND rioNs, a crimson clotb« an edition of that work a one has long been felt « that it may meet the is acknowledged supe- slightly altered to adapt igns of Tony Johannot. f the wit and humor ot test manner. A copious volumes are printed in confidently oflfered u LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. ^^^^~ — ■ .... , I __ _ — — - BOY'S TREA SURY OF SPORTS. THE BOrs TREASURY OF SPORTS, PASTIMES AND RECREATIONS. WITH FOUR HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS, BY SAIXCUEI. 'WII.I.IAXMCS. ■' 1 1 ' • . ! IS MOW READY. In one very neat vnltiine, bound in extra crimson cloth; handsomely printed and illustrated with euf^ravings in the first stylo of art, and containing about tiix hundred and fifty articles. A present for all seasons. PREFACE. This illustrated Manual of " Sports, Pastimes, and Recreations," has besn prepared with especial regard to the Health, Exercise, and Rational Knjuynient of the young ruauers to whom it u ad- dressed. Every variety of commendable Recreation will he found in the foUowing pages. First, you hav« the little Toys of the Nursery; the Tops and Alarbles of the Play-ground ; and the Balls of I'le Plav-room, or the smooth I^awn. 1 hen, you have a number of Pastimes that serve to gladden the fireside ; to light up many fac '< right joyfully, and make tlio parlour le-edio Willi mirtli. Next, come tlio Exeroisint? Sports of the Field, the Green, and the Play-ground ; lollowed by the noble and truly English game of Cricket. tiymnastics are next admitted; then, the delightful recreation of -Swimming ; and the healthful sport of Skating. Archery, onco the ptide of England, is then detailed ; and very properly followed by Instructions in the graceful ancomplishmeut of Fencing, and the manly and enlivening exercise of Riding. Anghng, the pastime of childhund, boyliojil, manluvul, and old age, is nnxt do.scrihed ; and by attention to the instructions here laid down, the lad with a stick and a string may soon become un expert Angler. Keeping Animals is a favourite pursuit of boyhood. Accordingly, wo Inve described how to rear the I^abbit, the Squirrel, tho DorniDUse, the Guinea Plij, the Pigeon, and the Silkworm. A long chapter is adapted to the rearing of Song Birds ; tlie several varieties of wliirh, and their respective cages, are next described. And here we m.iy hint, that kindness to Animals invariably denotes an excellent disposition ; for, to pel a little creature one hour, and to trt.'at it harshly the next, marks a capricious if not a cruel temper. Humanity is a jewel, which every boy should be proud to wear in his breast. We now approach the more sedate amusements — as Draughts and Chess ; two of tlie noblest exercises of the ingenuity of the human mind. Dominoes and Bagatelle follow. With a know- ledge of these four games, who would pass a dull hour in the dreariest day of winter ; or who would sit idly by the fire t Amusements in Arithmetic, harmless Legerdeiniin, or sleight-of-hand, and Tricks with Cants, will delight many a fomily circle, when the business of the day is over, and the boolc is laid aside. Although the present volume is a book of amusements. Science has not been excluded from its pages. And why should it be ! when Science is as entertaining as a fairy tale. The cliiuiges we read of in Uttle nui'sery-books are not more amusing than the changes in Chemistry, Uplics, Elec- tricity, Magnetism, i&c. By understanding these, you may almost become a little Magician. Toy Balloons and Paper Fireworks, (or Fireworks without Fire,) come next. 'Hien follow In- structions for Moaelhng in Card-Boanl; so that you may build for youi-self a palace or a carriage, and, in short, make for yourself a httle paper world. Puzzles and Paradoxes, Enigmas and twiddles, and Tadcing with the r'ingers, next make »■? plenty of exercibe for " Guess," and " Guess apiin " And as you have the " Keys" in your own band, you may keep your friends in suspense, and make yourself as mysterious as tite Sphynx. A chapter of Miscellanies — useful and amusing secrets — whids up the volume. The " Treasury" contains upwards of four hundred Engravings ; so that it is not only a collection of "secrets wortn knowing," but it is a book of pictures, as full of prints as u Christmas pudding is of plums. It maybe as well to mention that the "Treasury" holds many new imnies that have never before been printed in a book of this kind. The old games have been described ui'resh. Thus it w, altogether, a new book. And now we take leave, wishing you many hours, and days, nnil weeks of nnjoymniil over taetw pages; and we hope that yuu may be as happy as this book is brimful of aniusuineui. m' LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS. SELECT WORKS OF FIELDING AND SxMOLLETT. Printed in a neat and unifurm style, to match the cheap edition of Dicliena's Works. SELECT WORKS OF TOBIAS SMOLLETT, WITH A MEMOIR OF HIS LIFE AND WRITINGS, BY SIR WALTER SCOTT. THIS EDITION CONTAINS: THE ADVENTURES OF RODERICK RANDOM. Price twenty-fi»e cenU. THE ADVENTURES OF PEREGRINE PICKLE. Price fifty cent*. THE EXPEDITION OF HUMPHREY CLINKER. Price twenty-five cenU. THE ADVENTURES OF FERDINAND COUNT FATHOM. Price twenty-five centi. THE ADVENTURES OF SIR LAUNCELOT GREAVES, THE HISTORY AND ADVENTURES OF AN ATOM, AND SELECT POEMS. Price twenty-five cenU. Or, the whole done up in one very large octavo volume, extra cloth. s E L E cTWRKslnmm^ WITH A MEMOIR OF HIS LIFE AND WRITINGS, BY SIR WALTER SCOTT, AND AN ESSAY ON HIS LIFE AND GENIUS, BY ARTHUR MURPHY, ESQ. THIS EDITION CONTAINS: TOM JONES, OR THE mSTORY OF A FOUNDLING. Price fifty cents. THE ADVENTURES OF JOSEPH ANDREWS, AND HIS FRIEND MR. ABRAHAM ADAMS. Price fifty cents. AMELIA. Price twenty-five cents. THE LIFE OF JONATHAN WILD THE GREAT. Price twenty-five centi. Or, the whole in one large octavo volume, extra cloth. coiopH^FiMm A UNZFOanill EDZTZON, IN TWENTY-THREE LARGE DUODECIMO VOLUMES, WELL BOUND IN SHEEP GILT, Forming a beautiful series, each volume comprehending a novel. AZiSO, A OBZiAP EDITION, IN FORTY-SIX VOLUMES, DUODECIMO,! DONE UP IN NEAT PAPER COVERS. Price only twenty-five cents a volume, each work in two volumes. Any novel sold separate. COMPRISINO: THE SPY— THE WATERWITCH—HEIDENMADER— PRECAUTION— HOMEWARD BOUND —HOME AS FOUNI>-THE LAST OF THE MOHICANS-THE HEADSMAN— THE TWO ADMIRALS— THE PIONEERS-THE PILOT— LIONEL LINCOLN— THE PATHFINDER— THE WISH-TON-WISH— MERCEDES OF CASTIL-^-THE MONIKINS— THE BRAVO— THE DEERSLAYER— THE PRAIRIE-THE RED FOVER— WING AND WING— WYAN- DOTTE, OR THE HUTTED KNOLL; AND THE TiUVVELING BACHELOR. ALSO, NED MYERS; OR, A LIFE BEFORE THE MAST, In one ISmo. volume. Price twenty-flve cents. AIiSO, OOOPSR'S SBA TAIiBS, ; In six neat volumes, royal 12mo., extra cloth. OOOPBA'S ZiSATHBR 8TOOKZKO TiLZiSB^ In Ave neat volumes, royal 12mo., extra cloth. ONS. 3M0LLETT. Dickeni's Works. LLETT, VRITINGS, '-&ve c«nta. AND ADVENTURES ixtra cloth. !ding, VRITINGS, 3N1US, . ABRAHAM ADAMS. Qtf. loth. ES. r, VOLUMES, ing a novel. >N, CIMO,| lea. Any novel [OMEWARD BOUND DSMAN— THE TWO HF PATHFINDER- INS— THE BRAVO— ND WING— WYAN- lELOR. THE MASTy IS, LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS. I BIOGR..PHY AND POETICAL REMAINS OP THE LATE XCAROABBT MZZiZiBB DAVIDSON'. BY WASHINGTON IRVING. A NEW EDITION, REVISED. POETICAL REMAINS OF THE LATE ZiTJORBTIA XCABZA DAVZDSOK. COLLECTED AND ARRANGED BY HER MOTHER, WITH A BIOURAl'HY BY MISS SEDGWICK. A MEW KDITION, REVISED. SELECTIONS FROM THE WRITINGS OF MRS. MARGARET M. DAVIDSON, THE MOTHEB or LITCSETIA AND HAROAHET. WITH A PREFACE BY MISS SEDGWICK, llie above three works are done ap to match in a noat duodecimo form, fancy paper, price liAy xuts eacii ; or in extra cloth. THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS, WITH ILLUSTRATIVE POETRY r TO WHICH ARE NOW ADDED THE CALENDAR OP FLOWERS, i»ND THE DIAL OP FLOWERS. SEVENTH AMERICAN, FROM TQB NINTH LONDON EDITION. Revised by the Editor of the "Forget-Me-Not." In one very neat 18mo. volume, extra crimson cloth, gilt. With six colored Plates. CAMPBELL'S POETICAL WORKS, THE ONLY COMPLETE AMERICAN EDITION, WITH A MEMOIR OF THE AUTHOR BY IRVING, AND AN ESSAY ON HIS GENIUS BY JEFFREY. In one beautiful crown octavo volume, extra cloth, or calf gilt : with a Portrait and 12 Plates. KEBLE'S CHRISTIAN YEAR, EDITED BY THE RIGHT REV. BISHOP DOANE. Miniature Edition, in 32mo., extra cloth, with Illuminated Title. RELIGIO MEDICI, AND ITS SEQUEL, CHRISTIAN MORALS, BY SIR THOMAS BROWNE, KT., WITH RESEMBLANT PASSAGES FROM COWPER'S TASK. In one neat ]2(no. volume. HEMANS'S COMPLETE POETICAL WORKS, IN SEVEN VOLUMES, ROYAL 12mO., PAPER OR CLOTH. ROGERS'S POEMS, ILLUSTRATED, IK ONE IMPERIAL OCTAVO VOLUME, EXTRA CLOTH OB WHITE CALF, LEA AND BLANCHAKD'S PUBLICATIONS. DICKENS'S WORKS. VARX0T7S EDZTZONS AND PRZ0E8. CHEAPEST EDITION IN NINE PARTS PAPER. AS FOLLOWS: THE PICKWICK PAPERS, 1 large vol. 8vo., paper, price 50 rente. OLIVER TWIST, 1 vol. 8vo., paper, price 25 cents. SKETCHES OF EVERY-DAY-LIFE, 1vol. 8 vo., paper, price 37i cents. NICHOLAS NICKLEBY, 1 larfe vol. 8vo., paper, price 50 cents. THE OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, 1 vol. 8vo., paper, with many Cuts, price 50 cents. BARNABY RUDGE, 1 vol. 8vo., with many Cuts, price 50 cents. MARTIN CHUZZLEWIT, 1 vol. 8vo., with plates, price 50 cents. CHRISTMAS STORIES.— The Carol, The Chimes, The Cricket on THE Hearth, and The Battle of Life— together with Pictures from Italy, 1 vol. 8vo., price 37^ cents. DOMBEY AND SON, Part I., to be completed in Two Parts, price 25 cents each. Forming: a neat and uniform Edition of theie popular worki. Any work aold separatslj. ALSO, A UNIFORM AND CHEAP EDITION OF DICKENS'S NOVELS AND TALES, IN THREE LAROE VOLUMES. TBB XrOVEZiS AKB TAZ.B8 OF OBARZiES DZOKBNS, (BOZ,) In Tliree large and beautiflil Octavo Volumes, done up in Extra Cloth, CONTAINING ABOUT TWENTT-TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY LARGE DOUBLE COLUMNED FAOES. PRICE FOR THE WHOLE, ONLY THREE DOLLARS AND SEVENTY-FIVE CENTS. The frequent inquiries for a uniform, compact and good edition of Boz's works, have induced the publishers to prepare one, which they now olfer at a price so low tliiit it should command a very extended sale. It is printed on fine wliite paper, with good type, and forms three large volumes, averaging; about seven hundred and fifty pawn each, done up in vanous styles of extra cloth, making a beautiml and portable edition.— Some of the works are illustrated with Wood Engravings. This Edition comprehends the first seven parts, and will be completed with the issue of the Fourth Volume, on the ronipletion of "Dombev and Son," now in progress of publication, con- taining that work, the " Christmas Stories," and '* Pictures from Italy." Purchasers may thus rely on being able to perfect their sets. ALSO, AN EDITION PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY-FOUR PLATES, AND ONE HUNDRED AND FORTY WOOD-CUTS. In Imperial octavo, extra cloth, on fine white paper. tiJ'The above are the only Complete i nd Uniform Editions of Dickens's Works now before the public. NOW PUBLISHING, DOmiBEY AlfD SON. PINK EDITION. In twenty numbers, price 8 cents each, with two illustrations by Hablot K. Browne in each number. This ii the only edition which presents the plates accompanying the text to which they refigr. )NS. ES. PAPER, ice SO cents. , price 37^ cents. B 50 cents. nth many Cuts, ; 50 cents. :e 50 cents. Fhe Cricket on 1 Pictures from Parts, price 25 [ lold Mpantely. OF LES, S DZOKBNS, xtra Cloth, LARGE D0X7BLB TT-FIVE CENTS. rkB.haye induced the }ulu command a veiy I three large volumes, of extra cloth, making ood Engravings, with the issue of the 93 of publication, con- chasers may thus rely TH , AND ONE s. ikens's Works now LEA AND DI.ANCIIARD'S PUBUCATIONS. ions by Hablot > which they refer. uwmed states explor ing expedition. . TIIK NARK ATI Vli OF TIIF. UNITED STATES EXPLORING EXPEDITION, nrRl\« THE YEAKS 1K18, '39. '40, 41, AND '41. BY C II A U li E S \V I L K K S , ESQ., U. S. N. rOMMANDKR or THE KXl'EDITION. ETC. PRICE TWENTY-riVE DOLLARS. A Nf!W Edition, in Pivo Moiiium Ortavo Volumes, neat Extra Cloth, particularly done up with reference to 8tronf;th and continued use: contnininn Twkntv Six Hun- . i>RED Tages of I.i!tter-preR9. Illustrated willi Map!>, and abuut Thrbb llUNDnED SPI.ENDIII EnORAVINUS ON VVOOD. PRXOE ONLY TWO DOIiliARS A VOI.UME. Thoujrh olTered nt n prire so low, this is the complpte work contninins all the lntter-pre.ropriute embellishments. The attention of persons forming Itbranes is espcciidly directed to this work, as presenting the novel and valuable matter accumulated by the L'xpediiion in a cheap, convenient, and readable form. SCHOOL and other PUBLIC LIURAR1E^5 should not be without it. as ombtHlying the resulto of the First Scientific Kxjiedition conimissioiied by our government to explore foreign regions. "We have no hesitation in saying that it is destined to stand among the most enduring monu- ments of our national literature. Its coiilributioits not only to every department of science, but every dc^partnient of history, are immense ; and there is not an intelligent man in the conuiiunity— no matter what may be his taste, or his occupation, but will find suuiething here to enlighten, to gratify, and to protit liim."— Albany Religioui Spectator. ANOTHEREDITION. PRICE TWENTY-FIVE DOLLARS. IN FIVE MAGNIFICENT IMPERIAL OCTAVO VOLUMES' WITH AN ATLAS OF LARGE AND EXTENDED MAPS. BEAUTIFULLY DONE UP IN EXTRA CLOTH. I'hks truly great and National Work is issued in a style of Kuperior magnificence and beauty, containing Sixty-four large and finished Line Eiii^ravin^s, oinbrncin; Sccnory, Portraits, Maniirrri, Customs, btles8 be hailed with pleasure by those of this country who 1il;c (and what boy does not) the marvellous tricks and changes, experiments and wonders afforded by the magic of science and jueflery. CHEMISTRY OF THE FOUR SEASONS, SPRING, SUMMER, AUTUMN, AND WINTER. AN ESSAY, PRINCIPALLY CONCERNING NATURAL PHENOMENA. ADMITTING OF INTERPRETATION BY CHEMICAL SCIENCE, AND ILULSTKATINU PASSAGIS OF scripture: BY THOM.\S GRirPITHS, PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY IN THE MEDICAL COLLEGE OF ST. BAKTHOI,0MKW'8 HOSriTAU ETC. In one large royal 12mo. volume, with many Wood-Cuts, extra cloih. " Chemistry is assuredly one of the most useful and interesting of the natural sciences. Chfimical chaiires meet us at every step, and durinf? every season, the winds and the rain, tlie heal and the frosts, each have their peculiar and appropriate phenomena. And those who have hitlu-rto re- mained insensible to these changes and unmoved amid such remarkable, and oflon viurtltng re- sults, will lose their apathy upon readinR the Chemistry of the ' F"our Seasons,' and be oropared to enjoy the liiRhest intollnctual pleasures. Conceived in a happy spirit, and wriUtn wiih taste and eioRance, the essay of Mr. GritRths cannot fail to receive the uilniiratioii of cnlfivaicd tniiids; and tluwe who have looked less carefully into nature's beauties, will liud thoiiisnlvKs Itid on step by step, until they realize a new intellectual beinc Such works, we belidvo, exert a liappy influence over society, and Iicm'T wn hnpc (hat Hip prosppt oiip iiiav be ovii'iwlvnlv riMul" / /,.• ;T'f«<«rfi Lottcet. LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS. POP ULAR SCIE NCE. KIRBY AND SPENCE'S E NTOMOLO GY, FOR POPULAR USE. Air ZZTTROBVOTIOZr TO EXTTOBEOXiOa'S'; OR, ELEMENTS OF THE NATURAL HISTORY OP INSECTS: COMPRISING AN ACCOUNT OP NOXIOUS AND USEFUL INSECTS, OP THEIR METAMORPHOSES, FOOD, STRATAGEMS. HABITAliuho, SOCIETIES, MOTIONS, NOISES, HYBERNATION, INSTINCT, &c., ffice on the receipt of fifty cents, free of postage. CLATER AND YOUATrS CATTLE DOCTOR. EVERY MAN HIS OWN CATTLE DOCTOR: CONTAINING THE CAUSES, SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENT OP ALL DISEASES INCIDENT TO OXEN. SHEEP AND SWINE; AND A SKETCH OF THE ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF NEAT CATTLE. BY FRANCIS CLATER. EDITED. REi'IBED AND ALMOST RE-WRITT::N, BT WILLIAM YOUATT, AUTHOR OP " THE HORSE." WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS, EMBRACING AN ESSAY ON THE USE OF OXEN AND THE IMI'ROVEMENT IN THE BREED OF SHEEP, BT J. S. SKZNN.^R. WITH NUMEROUS CUTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. In one 12mo. volume, cloth. " As its title would import, it is a most valuable work, and should be in the hands of every Ame- rican farmer; and we feel proud in laying, that the value of the work has been greatly enhanced oy the contributions of Mr. Skinner. Clater and Youatt are names treasured by the farming com- munities of Europe as household-gods ; nor does luat of Skinner deserve to be less esteemed ia America."— iOwrJcon Fatmer. CLATER'S FARRIER. EVERY MAN HIS OWN FARRIER: CONTAINING THE CAUSES, SYMI'TGMS, AND MOST APPROVED METHODS OP OUR! OP THE DISEASES OP HORSES. B7 FRAXTCIS OiNATBR, Author of " Every Man Ins own Cattle Doctor," A N D H I S S O N, J O H N C L A T E R . FIPST AMERICAN FROM THE TWENTY-EIGHTH LONDON EiMTION. WITH notks and additions, 9*7 J. S. SKZITKTER, |» piiu I'Jiiuj volutiie, c.lolli. , ; ,r LEA AND BLAN GUARDS PUBLICATIONS. YOUATT AND SKINNER'S STANDARD WORK ON THE HORSE. THE HORSE. BY WILLIAM YOUATT. A NEW EDITION, WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. TOGKTHER WITH A OENSRAXi HISTORY OF THE BORSEs A SIB8BRTATI0N ON THE AMERICAN TROTTIKG HORSE; HOW TRAINED AND JOCKEYED. AN ACCOUNT OF HIS REMARKABLE PERFORMANCES; AMD AZT ESSAir OZr THB ASS AND THB XSVIiSy BY J. B. SKINNER, Assistant Post-Master-General, and Editor of the Turf Register. This edition of Youatt's well-known and standard work on the Manaee- ment, Diseases, and Treatment of the Horse, has already obtained such a wide circulation throughout the country, that the Publishers need say no- thing to attract to it the attention and confidence of all who keep Horses or ore interested in their improvement. "In introducing this very neat edition of Youatt's well-known book, on 'The Horse,' to our readers, it is nut necessary, even if we had time, to say anything to convince them of its worth ; it has been highly spoken of, by those most capable of appreciating its merits, and its appearance under the patronage of the 'Society for the DifI\uion of Useful Knowledge,' with Lord Brougham at its head, aflTords a full guaranty for its high character. The book is a very valuable ono, and we endorse tlie recommendation of the editor, that every man who owns the ' hair of a horse,' should have it at his elbow, to be consulted like a family physician, 'for mitigating the disorders, and pro- longing the life of the most interesting and useful of all domestic animals.' "—Farmer's Cabinet. " Tills celebrated work has been completely revised, and much of it almost entirely re-written by its iilile nutlinr, who, from bemg a practical veterinary surgeon, and withal a great lover and excellent judffe of the animal, is particularly well qualified to virrite the liistory of the noblest of qimdnipod!!. AlesMrs. Lea and Blanchard of Philadelphia have republished tlie above work, omitting n few of the first pages, and have supplied their place with matter quite as valuable, and perhaps mure interesting to tlie reader in this country ; it being nearly 100 pages of a general liistory of t'ne hun^e, a dissertation on the Amciican trottin? horse, how trained and jockeyed, an account of his reniarkiilile perforinnnnes, and an essay on tli.' Ass and Mule, by J. S. Skinner, Esq., Assistant Pust- jiiustor-Geiinrul, and late editor of the Turf Register and American Farmer. Mr. Skinner is one of mil' most pleasing writers, and has been familiar with the subject of the horse from childhood, and V, K need not add that he has acquitted himself well of the task. He also takes up the inipnrt- aiil gu))je(;t, to the American breeder, of the Ass, and the Mule. This he treats at length and c<»t amore. 'i'iie Philadelphia edition of the Hone is a handsome octavo, with numeru .. LIST OF-PLATES. Head of Bloodhound— Ancient Greyhounds— The Thibet Dog— The Dingo, or New Holland Dog^ The Danish or Dalmatian Dog — The Hare Indian Dog— The Greyhound — The Grecian Greyhound — Blenheims and Cockers— The Water Sponiel— The Poodle— The Alpine Spaniel or Bemardine Dog— The Newfoundland Dog— The Esquimaux Dog— The English Shitep Dog— The Scotch Sheep Dog— The Beagle— The Harrier— The Foxhound— Plan of Goo'ruiis, Jellies, MuriiiuludeN, Coiiiixites, Breitd Baking, Artificial Yeusts, Fancy Biscuits, Cakes, Rolls., Muirms, Tarts, Pies, 6ic., 6ic. WITH ADDITIONS AND ALTERATIONS. BY PARKINSON, PRACTICAL CONFKCTIONKR, CHESTNUT 8TRF.KT. Id one sinuU volume, paper. Price only Tweiily-ftve Ceutt. DNS. OOKERY. WES, ADAPTED AS H£ USE I, r M^esty the Queen. istratioviB. 9 treatise on that nrt octavo Tolunie, 1447 Is of fare and dinio twenty-eight.— JVat. lis great work on the and abiding intere-jC. ; or perhaps the La that the MecoDique and contains eveiy- -Graham's Magatvu. jrOHBS, IIVATE PAMfUES. £ GIVEN lEASURES. IPEKS. Dlumc. reat utility, and one ery-book is unques- I. It strongly incul- 1 without Ihot reck- ice they can give of lUSEKEEPING, lEIPTS, looking; Making of 13. ; Seasonings, of Pastry, ral ID BAKER. BAKING. IPTS, |>nif1tR, Lo7.enge(^ s, JellJHS, LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS. JOHNSON AND LANDRETH ON FRUIT, KITCHEN, AND FLOW ER GA RDENING. A DICTIONARY OF MODERN GARDENING, BY GEORGE WILLIAM JOHNSON, ESQ. Author of the " Principles of Practical Gardening," " The Gardener's Almanac," , A COLLECTION OF COLLOQUIAL PHRASES, ON EVERY TOPIC NECESSARY TO MAINTAIN CONVERSATION, Arranged under difTurunt heads, with numerous remarks on the peculiar pronunciation and uses of various words; the whole so disposed as considerably to facilitate the acquisition of a correct pronunciation of the French, in 1 vol., 18ino. LES AVENTURES DE TELE3IAQUE PAR FENELON, In 1 vol., 12mo., accompanied by a Key to the first eight books, in 1 vol., 12mo., con* mining, like the Fables, the text, a literal and free translation, intended as a sequel to the Fables. Either volume sold separately. ALL THE FRENCH VERBS, Both regular and irregular, in a small volume. ^EARLy READY. PRINCIPLES OF PHYSICS AND METEOROLOGY. BYJ.MULLER, Professor of Physics at the University of Prieburg. ILLCaTSATED WITH NEARLY HVE HUNDRED AND HFTT EMGRAVtNOS ON WOOD, AND TWC COLORED PLATF.S. In one octavo volume. This Edition is improved by the addition of various articles, and will be found in every respect brought up to the time of publication. "The Physics of Muller is a work, superb, complete, unique : the irroatest want known to Eni»- lish Science could not have been better supplied. The work is of siirpussing iitternst. The value of this contribution to the scientific records of tliis country may be duly estimated by the fact, that the cost of the original drawings uiid engravings alone has exceeded the sum of ^SMOL"— Lancet, March, \fW. Air ikTIiAS OF AUTOlHTrT GEOGRAFHIT, BY SAMUEL BUTLER, D.D., Lnte Lord Bishop of Litchlleld, 1* CONTAINING TWENTY-ONE COLOURED HAPS, AND A COMPLETE ACCENTUATED INDEX. In one octavo volume, half-bound. BUTLER'S AN CIENT GEOGRAPHY. GEOGRAPHZil. CIiASSZCA, OR, T'':E APPLICATION OP ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY TO THE CLASSICS BY SAMUEL BUTLER, D.D., F.R.S. REVISED BY HIS SON. FTFTH AMERICAN, FROM THE I.A8T LONDON EDITION, WITH QUESTIONS ON THE MAPS, BY JOHN FROSl. In one duodecimo volume, half-bound, to match the Atlas. TIONS. LEA AND BLANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS. LAW BOOKS. ES. R, forming, in Con- or the acquisition of IN»S FABLES, 1 such a manner as to ,St.c., in Ivol., l2nio. HRASES, NVERSATIOV. leciilinr pronunciation rably to facilitate the I 18ino. FENELON, in 1 vol., ISino., con- , intended as a sequel HILLIARD ON REAL ESTATE. NOW READY. R0L06Y. i WOOD, AMD iwc ind will be found in t want known to Ens. igiiiterost. The value mated by the faot, that una of 2000i"— Zojiee/, RAPHir, ENTOATED irsbz. HY. THE CLASSICS PROS!, tlaa. PRE AimERZOAN LAW OF RSAL PROPERTY. SECOND EDITION, REVISED, CORRECTED, AND ENLARGED. BY FRANCIS HILLIARD, COUNSELLOR AT LAW. Ill two largu octavo volumes, beautifully printed, and bound in best law sheep. This book is designed as a substitute for Cruisers Digest, occupying tha bame ground in American law which that work has long covered in the Lnglisn law. It embraces all that portion of the English Law of Real Estate which has any applicability in this country; and at the same time it embodies the statutory provisions and adjudged cases of all the States upon the same subject ; thereby constituting a complete elementary treatise for American students and practitioners. The plan of the work is such as to render it equally valuable in all the States, embracing, as it does, the pecu- liar modifications of the law alike in Massachusetts and Missouri, New York and Mississirri. In this edition, the statutes and decisions subse- quent to the former one, which are very numerous, have all been incorpo- rated, thus making it one-third larger than the oriirinal work, and bringing the view of the law upon the subject treated quite down to the present tmie. The book is recommended in the highest terms by distinguished jurists of diflerent Stales, as will be seen by tlie subjoined extracts. " The work before us supplies this deficiency in a liighly satisfactory manner. It is beyond all question the best work of the kind that we now have, and although we doubt whether this or any other work will be likely to supplant Cruise's Digest, we do not hesitate to say, that of the two, this is the more valuable to the Ainerican lawyer. We cunisrratulute the author upon the siiccesa- ful accomplishment of the arduous task he undertook, in reducing the vast tody of the American Law of Real Property to * portable size,' and we do not doubt that his labours will be duly appre- ciated by the profession."— Zau» Reporter, Aug., 1846. Judge Story says :— " I think the work a very valuable addition to our present stock of juridical literature. It embraces all that part of Mr. Cruise's Digest wliich is most useful to American law- yers. But its higher value is, that it presents in a concise, but dear and exact form, tlie substance of American Law on the same subject. J know no work that we possess, whose practical utility is likely to be so extensively felt." " The wonder is, that the autlior has been able to bring so gre& a mass into so condensed a text, at once compi'eheusive and lucid." Chancellor Kent says of the work (Commentaries, voL iL, p. 635, note, 5th edition) :— " It is a work of great labour and intrinsic value." Hon. Rufus Choate savg :— " Mr. Hiltiard's work has been for three or four years in use, and I think that Mr. Justice Story and Chancellor Kent express the general opinion of the Massachusetts Bar." Professor Greenleaf says :— " I had already found the first edition a very convenient book of refe- rence, and do not doubt, from the appearance of the second, that it is greatly improved." Professor J. H. Townsend, of Yale College, says :— " I have been acquainted for several yean with the first edition of Mr. Hilliard's Treatise, and have formed a very favourable opinion of it. 1 have no doubt the second edition wiU be found even more valuable than the first, and I shaU be happy to recommend it as I may Ymve opportunity. I know of no other work on the subject of Real Estate, so comprehensive and so well adapted to the itate of the law in this country." LEA AND BLANCHARD'S PUBLICATIONS. i n LAW BOOKS. ADDISON ON CONTRACTS. A T&aATZSB OTf THB ZiiLW OF 0OXTTBA0T8 AXfO RZOHTS AMU IiZABZXiZTZBS BZ OOXTTBAOTU. BY C. G. ADDISON, ESQ., Of the Inner Temple, Barrister at Iavt. In one volume, octavo, handsomely bound in law sheep. In this treatise upon the most constantly and frequently administered branch of law, the author has collected, arranged and dovoloped in an inteU ligible and popular form, the rules and principles of the Law of Contracts, and has supported, illustrated or exemplified them bv references to nearly four thousand adjudged cases. It comprises the Rignts and Liabilities of Seller and Purchaser ; Landlord and Tenant ; Letter and Hirer of Chattels ; Borrower and Lender ; Workman and Employer; Master, Servant and Ap- prentice ; Principal, Agent and Surety; Husband and Wife; Partners; Joint Stock Companies ; Corporations ; Trustees; Provisional Committee- men ; Shipowners ; Shipmasters ; Innkeepers ; Carriers ; Infanta ; Luna- tics, &c. WHEATON'S INTERNATIONAL LAW. BIiBMEXfTS OF ZZTTSBK ATZOKAI. IiAVT. BY HENRY WHEATON, LL.D., , Minister of the United States at the Court of Russia, dec. TinRD EDITION, REVISED AND CORRECTED. In one large and beautiful octavo volume of 650 pages, extra cloth, or fine law sheep. " Mr. Wheaton's work is indispensable to every diplomatist, statesman and lawyer, and necessary indeed to all public men. To every philosophic and liberal mind, the study must be an attractive and in the bands of our author it is a delightful oaa,"— North American. HILL ON TRUSTEES. A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE LAW RELATING TO TRUSTEES, THEIR POWERS, DUTIES, PRIVILEGES AND LIABILITIES. BT JAMES HILL, ESQ., Of the Inner Temple, Barrister at Law. EDITED BY FRANCIS J. TROUBAT, ■'"''"'" Of the Philadelphia Bar. * " In one large octavo volume, best law sheep, raised bands. ** The editor begs leave to iterate the observation made by the author that the work is intended principally fur the instruction and guidance of trustees. That single feature very much enhances Its practical value." • ON THE PRINCIPLES OF CRIMINAL LAW. In one 18mo. volume, paper, price 25 cents. BEING PART 10, OF " SMALL BOOKS ON GREAT SUBJECTS " TIONS. rs. TBA0T8 AXVD NTRAOTU. V ihcep. ucntly ndniinistercd cvcloped in an intel- le Law of Contracts, references to nearly its and Iiiabilities of id Hirer of Chattels; ter, Servant and Ap- »d Wife; Partners; jvisional Committee- ers ; Infants ; Luna* . LAW. prAz. iiATxr. J.D., ssia, dec. ED. loth, or fine law sheep. and lawyer, and neceisaiy .udy muat be an attractire. fG TO TRUSTEES, LIABILITIES. iT, id bands. that the work is iiiteudcd iture very much enhance! NAL LAW. B. OBJECTS" LEA AND BLANCHARDS PUBLICATIONS. LAW BOOK S. SPBXrOXl'S BQU XTir J UBIBDlOTIOay. THE EIJUITABLE JURISDICTION OF THE COURT OF CHANCERY, COMFRISINO ITS RISE, PROGRESS AND FINAL ESTABLISHMENT. TO WHICH IS PREFIXED. WITH A VIEW '10 THE EIX'CIDATION OF THE MAIN SUB^ JECT, A CONCISE ACCOUNT OF THE LKADINO DOCTRINES OF THE COMMON LAW, AND OF THE COURSE OF FlUV'EDUKE IN THE COURTS OF COM- MON IJVW, WITH REGARD '10 CIVIL RIGHTS; WI TH AN A'lTEMIT TO TRACE TH:JM TO THEIR SOURCES: AND IN WIUCH THE VARIOUS ALTERATIONS MADE UY THK LEGISLATURE IKJWN TO THE PRESENT DAY AKE NOTICED. BT GEORGE SPEMOE, ESQ., OiiF. of Iter M(UU8ty'B CuunseL INTWOOCTAVOVOLUMES. Volume I., embracing the Principlna, is now ready. Volume IL is rapidly preparing and wil appear early in 1848. It is based upon the work of Mr. Mudilock, brought down to the present tune, and embracing so much of the practice as counsel tire culled on to advise upon. A XTBVT IsAW DZOTZOZTAB'S', CONTAINING EXPLANATIONS OF SUCH TECHNICAL TERMS AND PHRASES AS OCCUP IN THE WORKS OP LEGAL AUTHORS, IN THE PRACTICE OF THE COURTS, AND IN THJi PARLIAMENTARY PR(iCEEDINGS OF THE HOUSE OF LORDS AND COMMONS, TO WHICH IS ADDED, AN OUTLINE OF AN ACTION AT LAW AND OF A SUIT IN EQUITY. BT HENR7 JAMES ROIiTHOUS E, ES Q., Of the Inner Temple, Special Pleader. EDITED FROM THE SECOND AND ENLARGED LONDON EDITION, WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS, BT HENRY FENINGTON, Of the Pliiladelphia Bar. In one large volume, royal 12nno., or about .'>oo pages, double columnB, handsomely bound in law sheep. " This is a considerable improvement upon the former editions, being bound with the usual law bindincr, and the general execution admirable— the paper excellent, and the printing clear and beautiful. Its peculiar usefulness, however, consists in the valuable additions aliove referred to, being intelligible emd well devised definitions of such phriises and technicalities as are peculiar to the practice m the Courts of thi^ country.— While, therefore, we recommend it especially to the students of law, as a safe guide through the intricacies of their study, it will nevertheless be found a valuable acquisition to the library of the practiliouer liimself."— .ilto. Oazelte. " This work is intenued rather for the general student, than as a substitute for many abridgments, dige.sts, and dictionaries in use by the professional man. Its object principally is to impress accu- rately and distinctly upon the mind the meaning of the technical terms of the law, and as such can hotdly fail to be generally useful. There is much curious information to be found in it in .>• gard to the peculiarities of the ancient Saxon law. The additions of the American edition give ucreased value to the work, and evince much accuracy and care."— Pennsylvania Law Journal. TAirZsOR'S MBDI OAIi J PHISPaUDBlTOlI. A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE. BY ALFRED S. TAYLOR, Lecturer on Medical Jurisprudence and Chemistry at Guy's Hospital, London. With numerous Notes and Additions, and References to American Law, BY R. E. GRIFFITH, M.D. In one volume, octavo, neat law sheep. TAirZiOR'S MAKirAZi OF T0XZ00Ii0O7. IN ONE NEAT OOTAVO VOLUME. K HEW WOBE, KOW BEADT. TRAZXiIi'S OUTLINES OF A COURSE OP LECTURES ON MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCR. IN ONE SMALL OCTAVO VOLUME. LEA AND ULANCIIARD'S PUBLICATIONS. LAW BOOKS. E A S T'S REPORTS. REPOHTS OF CASES ADJUDGED AND DETERMINED IN THE COURT OF KING'S BENCH. WITH TABLES OF THE NAMES OF THE CASES AND PRINCIPAL MATTERS. BY EDVCTARD HYDE EAST, ESQ., Of the Inner Temple, Barrister at Law. EDITED, WITH NOTES AND REFERENCES, BY G. M. WHARTON, ESQ., Of the Pliiladelphia Bar. In eight large royal octavo volunnes, bound in best law sheep, raided bands and double titles. Price, to subscribers, only twenty-five dollars. In this edition of East, the sixteen volumes of the former edition have been compressed into eight — two volumes in one throughout — but nothing has been omitted ; the entire work will be found, with the notes of Mr. Wharton added to those of Mr. Day. The great reduction of price, (from $72, the price of the last edition, to $25, the subscription price of this,) together wit^' ,he improvement in appearance, will, it is trusted, procure for it a ready sale. A NEW WORK ON COURTS-MARTIAL. A TREATISE ON AMERICAN MILITARY LAW, AND THE PRACTICE OF COURTS. MARTIAL, WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR THEIR I5IPR0VEMENT. BY JOHN O'BRIEN, LIEUTENANT UMTEO STATES ARTILLERY. In one octavo volume, extra cloth, or law sheep. "This work stands relatively to Ajnerican Military Law in the same position that Blackstone^ Commentaries stand to Common Law." — U. S. Oazetle, CAMPBELL'S LORD CHANCELLORS. UVES OP THE LORD CHANCELLORS AND KEEPERS OP THE GREAT SEAL OP ENGLAND, FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES TO THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE IV., BY JOHN LORD CAMPBELL, A.M., F.R.S.E. FIRSTSBRIKS, — _ In three neat demy octavo volumes, extra cloth, BRENGIT'TG THE WORK TO THE TIME OF JAMES II., JUST ISSUED. A A |//[1 PREPARINO, *- _ _ _ _ In four volumes, to match, ^ _ t,l JAMES II. TO GEORGE FV. rru'V lTIONS. T S. ES THE COURT INCIPAL MATTERS. ESQ., R E N C E S, •I _, , raitieil bands and double ! dollars. le former edition have oughout — but nothing /ith the notes of Mr. luction of price, (from ription price of this,) is trusted, procure for /lARTIAL ITARY LAW, IRTIAL, EMBNT. ■ sheep. line position that Blackstone'i ELLORS. VND KEEPERS OP KING GEORGE IV., iI.,F.R.S.E. cloth, 'T II., JUST ISSUED. IGE IV.